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Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont filmds en commenpant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbols — ^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbole V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre filmds A des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clichd, il est film6 d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n6cessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mithode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 • 6 VISIT TO CANADA AND THE UNITED STATES, IN CONNECTION WITH THE bltnjs of i\$ I rifely J^ssntiaHnti, Held at Montreal, in 1884. BY ALFRED PEGLER. SOUTHAMPTON : "HAMPSHIRE INDEPENDENT" OFFICE, PRINTED BV A. J. DYER. MDCCCLXXXIV. a V t] w \\ a: ir M C D C. Ai mi do of wi m\ Co INTRODUCTION. It will ever remain a memorable incident of the Southampton meeting of the British Association in 1882, that on that occasion the decision was arrived at to cross the Atlantic, and hold the Annual Meeting this year in the city of Montreal. This exceptional result was not arrived at without having been somewhat earnestly contested by Members of the Association who urged the claims of Birmingham as the place of assembly of the savants in 1884. The friends of our Dominion across the sea, however, proved to be in a majority. No sooner was the decision made known in Montreal than the leading citizens set themselves to work for the purpose of organising a most influential Committee, so as to ensure a cordial and hearty welcome to as many Members of the Association as would venture upon an ocean voyage. Under the auspices of the Citizens' Committee, a circular invitation was drafted and forwarded to the Association, in which every inducement was held out to Members who would accept the offer to attend the meetings in Montreal, it being stated that " Members 'of the British Association, in coming to Canada, may be assured of a most cordial and generous hospitality, not only from the citizens of Montreal, where every facility will be furnished for their meeting, but from the people throughout the country. " The circular added that the Grand Trunk Railway would arrange for an excursion of the Members to the Great Lakes and Chicago, while the Canadian Pacific Railway would give an excursion to the North West, as far as the Rocky Mountains, a distance of about two thousand six hundred miles. The Dominion Parliament voted 25,000 dollars towards the expenses of the Meeting, and, as a further inducement, and proof of Canadian liberality, the Canadian Government railways were rendered free, as were all telegraphs in the Dominion ; messages were also to be sent free to Europe, by the Submarine Companies. The Meetings of the Association commenced in Montreal on the 27th of August, and extended over a week. The Canadian Pacific Railway is one of the most important lines of communication in the Dominion, extending as it already does from Montreal to the base of the Rocky Mountains, serving the vast territory of Manitoba, and steadily pursuing its course until, in a short time, it will fold within its embrace the she res of the Pacific Ocean, and form a direct line of com- munication between Greit Britain and Japan, China and Hindostan. This Company has an alternative route as, in addition to the direct railway service via iv. Introduction. Chicago and St. Paul, they run frora Montreal to Owen Sound, and thence, per fine Clyde-built steamers, across Lake Superior to Port Arthur, where they entrain again. The passage across this magnificent lake occupies forty hours, and forms an agreeable change to a continuous railway journey. The Canadian- Pacific line is fully equipped with drawing-room and sleeping cars, and it cannot be too widely made known that the comfort of sleeping cars is available for emigrants passing over the line without extra charge. It may be of local interest to state that George Stephen, Esq., the President of this vast undertaking, i? connected with Hampshire by marriage, and is well known and highly esteemed in Alton. In addition to the substantial advantages offered by the citizens of Montreal, nearly all the steamship companies sailing to the Dominion, as well as those running to the United States, made a reduction in their ordinary fares in favour of the Members of the Association. It can readily be understood that the opportunity of visiting America under the auspices of the Association attracted the attention of many whose object was to enjoy the trip under the exceptional advantages which were offered to Members rather than the pursuit of scientific research ; and so numerous did the applica- tions for membership become, that the Association felt it necessary to pass a resolution to the effect that no new Members could be enrolled after September, 1883, except by a special vote of the Council. Nearly 1000 Members of the Association were present at Montreal. The Annual Meetings of the American Association had been arranged to take place at Philadelphia on the 4th September, to which a cordial invitation had been extended to the Members of the British Association. Arrangements were made and Committees appointed in Ottawa, Toronto, Winnipeg, and many ^ ther cities in the Dominion, so as to ensure a cordial and hearty welcome to all who visited those cities in connexion with the Association. These advantages were not confined to Members only, as each had the privilege of taking upon equal terms his wife and two members of his family. A cloud gathered over the memory of those who attended the Southampton Meeting by the remembrance that Sir W. Siemens, F.R.S., who so ably presided on that occasion, will no more shed forth the lustre of his genius in the advance- ment of scientific research. Availing myself of the privileges afforded me as a Member of the British Association I sailed from Liverpool, on the 17th July, en route for Quebec, in the Steamer " Parisian, " belonging to the Allan Line, and contributed to the columns of the Hampshire Independent the impressions made upon my mind during my voyage and sojourn in the Dominion of Can?da, and in those cities in the United States which I had the opportunity of visiting. By the desire of many friends these letters are now submitted in a more enduring form. Maybush, Southampton, December, 1884. CANADA AND THE NORTH-WEST. The following notes of a recent visit to Canada, in connection with the British Association, which appeared in the columns of the Hampshire Independent, are, in response to many requests, reproduced in a more permanent form : — The " Parisian " ranks among the highest class of transatlantic steamers. Not only is she built of steel throughout, thereby combining the maximum of strength with the minimum of dead weight, but being constructed with an inner skin, with a space of five feet between it and the hull, she would be able to sustain with impunity an amount of damage which would cause a vessel built in the ordinary manner to founder. Besides this space being sub-divided into water- tight compartments, the vessel has no less than ten water-tight bulkheads — an element of safety, in case of collision, which cannot be over-rated. The " Parisian " is 5,500 tons register, having a set of compound engines with three cylinders, capable of developing 6,200 horse power. The general accommodation is first- class, whilst the provedore department is upon such a scale as to leave nothing to be desired, the attention to the personal wants of the passengers rendering life on board this magnificent steamer such as to cause universal regret at the termination of the voyage. She is a favourite vessel, as is the St. Lawrence the favourite route of the Bishop of Rochester, who not only selected the "Parisian" when Dr. Thorold, but since his elevation to the episcopate, he has borne public testimony to the advantages of travelling to Canada by this fine steamer of the Allan Line. His lordship writes : " Given three good things — five weeks' time, a liking for salt water, and ;^5o, and in no way could you obtain so much healthful change as by a visit to Canada." He further says that for this expenditure you obtain the passage out and home in vessels beaten by none on the Atlantic for safety, comfort, discipline, and cheapness. The discipline is assured from the know- ledge that the " Parisian" is under the command of Capt. Wylie, than whom, as commodore of the Allan fleet, no navigator has earned a more flattering or well- deserved reputation. We left Liverpool on Thursday, 17th July, and arrived at Moville, in the Lough of Foyle, on Friday morning at eight o'clock. Here we brought up, awaiting the arrival of the mails and passengers from Ireland. The passage from Liverpool was so quiet — notwithstanding the prevalence of a westerly breeze — as to give the hope of an agreeable passage across the Atlantic. The mails and passengers being embarked, at six o'clock we were fairly off. The night, calm and fine, was Eassed without incident, if we except the fate of one gentleman who, failing to old on by his eyebrows (as the sailors say) was capsized from a top berth on to the cabin floor, fortunately without injury. Among our passengers are Mr. Fegan, a gentleman well-known for his devotion to the rescue of street arabs, and with him fifty lads, whom he had saved from courses of misery, trained for lives of usefulness, and provided for each a home in Canada. Mr. Fegan holds a religious service on the deck of the steamer morning and evening, in which to a large extent he is joined by the passengers. It may be interesting locally to note that on A Visit to Canada in connection with Saturday, the 19th, the morning service was conducted by the Rev. A. B. Sole, senior curate of Canon Wilberforce's church in Southampton, After singing, the rev. gentleman delivered a short, but most appropriate address, specially adapted to Mr. Fegan's lads, and highly appreciated by the passengers by whom he was surrounded. Mr. Sole took for his subject the lesson for the preceding day— Acts XX., i6th to the 24th, and the 31st verse to the end of the chapter. Our circum- stances to-day (said Mr. Sole) are somewhat similar to those in which Paul described himself ; therefore his words should have special force for us, his desire being to reach Jerusalem by the day of Pentecost, and we were looking forward to reaching a new and distant land. He had left his friends as we had left ours. The Spirit was guiding him, even as we hoped we were being led by the same divine power. He was full of sorrow, as were doubtless many who had left friends and loved ones behind. Though the surroundings and character of Paul's boat were very different to the noble vessel in which those present had embarked, there was the same Lord over us, and the same divine guidance, and if we exercised the same trust as Paul, we should be directed in all our ways, and have power to overcome every temptation that we might encounter. The rev. gentleman drew a vivid picture of the grand old man, with whitened hair, and tottering form, con- trasting so greatly with the bright and agile young student who had sat at the feet of Gamaliel, and spoke of the loving counsel he wrote to the youthful Timothy — "Endure hardness as a good soldier of Jesus Christ." The aspect of a man often betokened his character. When you saw a broad forehead and an intelligent countenance you expected to find a man of thoughtful mind; on the contrary, when you beheld a weather-beaten brow, you judged that the man was more engaged in out-door and laborious work. Paul bore on his person the marks of the Lord Jesus, and the Spirit had indited the history and life of the apostle for our example, and to enable us to build up lives holy and good. Mr. Sole, to illustrate his idea of trust, gave an incident in the life of Mr. Moody, who told how a sick child, who was too ill to speak, wrote on a slate the request that his grand- father would purchase for him a box of paints. On his return with the coveted gift, he found written on the slate "Thanks," and this the sick lad had written before the present came, being so full of trust as to make him feel certain that his •wish would be fulfilled. The rev. gentleman having referred to Paul's sailing in the Castor and Pollux, and to his boldness in preaching Christ before Agrippa and Felix, in conclusion exhorted his hearers to flee temptation, and related how a lad in London was almost persuaded to enter a house of low repute, but was prevented when at the door by the remembrance of the text, " My son, if sinners entice thee, consent thou not," pointing out the only sure anchorage was an abiding faith in Christ, and relating the destruction of a fleet of vessels in a lovely bay, of which but one alone was saved, and this one had, as it was proved, caught her anchorin the anchor of a large man-of-war which had been lost during a war with France. So if we were anchored in Christ, we were safe, though the sudden, whirling storm may cast all around us upon the desolate shores of destruction. This short service formed a fitting prelude to the engagements of the follow- ing day ; and as many of our readers are not familiar with life on board ship, we give them an experience of a Sunday at sea, which — cleanliness being akin to godliness — was begun with a splendid sea bath, followed by such a breakfast as is rarely enjoyed ashore — and but in few vessels afloat outside the Allan Line — the tnenu comprising a choice of dishes as follows : — Fried soles, pork chops and Robert sauce, beef steak broiled and onions, mutton chops, broiled kidney, grilled ham and bacon, poached and boiled eggs, chip potatoes, Irish stew, porridge. At 10 a.m. Mr. Fegan held a service on deck forward, which was largely attended by " his dear boys " and by many of the saloon passengers, as well as a large number of those in the intermediate and steerage. A more hearty respon- sive service could not well be imagined. The blue canopy of heaven above, the great Atlantic all around, its power and might being hidden in the calm stillness which prevailed, the sea being as peaceful and smooth as the waters of the Solent. At 10.30 a full service was held in the magnificent saloon, the lessons being read and the hymns announced by the Rev. A. B. Sole, the preacher being the Rev. Canon Carver. In mid-ocean, far away from home and native land, it was fitting The British Association Meetings 1884. follow- bhip, we lakin to Ikfast as Line — )ps and grilled |ge. 1 largely lell as a ^espon- jve, the Itillness ISolent. pg read \e Rev. 1 fitting not only most heartily to beseech the blessing of Almighty God upon our Most Gracious Sovereign Lady Queen Victoria, but there appeared a generous sym- pathy and heartiness in the expression with which Mr. Sole included the Presi- dent of the United States, ancl the Governor-General of the Dominion of Canada. The Union Jack of Old England seemed entwined within the folds of the Stars and Stripes, whilst the growing colony of Canada was united to both — to England by deepest sentiments of loyalty, and to the United States by the closest bonds of neighbourly feeling. The rev. canon preached an excellent sermon from a most appropriate text taken from an incident in the life of Christ, in John vi. 16- 21. The saloon was quite full, and many enjoyed the service from the drawing- room above, an opening in the centre of which gives communication with the main saloon. All classes were represented — saloon, intermediate, and steerage passengers, the captain, and all the crew who could be spared from duty, "The rich and the poor meet together, and the Lord is the maker of them all." At I p.m. luncheon was served, the bill of fare comprising all necessary for a substantial meal. At 2.30 a service was held by Mr. Fegan, in which the Rev. Mr. Sole and a few passengers united. At 3 o'clock a general service was held on deck, at which Canon Carver read certain portions from the Prayer Book, after which Mr. Sole delivered an admira- ble address from Phillipians iii. and first part 20th verse, " For our conversation (or citizenship) is in heaven," in which the preacher forcibly impressed on his hearers the necessity of possessing a citizenship which would entitle them to the privileges and benefits of the heavenly kingdom. Dr. Barnardo afterwards spoke with great earnestness from the four words " I am the door," and the service concluded by the Benediction being pronounced by the Rev. Canon Carver. Mr. Fegan's service on deck at seven concluded the public engagements of the day, though in the drawing-room a service of song was held, the Rev. Mr. Greer presiding at the pianoforte. The result of my experience of a Sunday at sea is that more religious feeling was developed on the part of the 800 or 900 persons on board than is to be found amongst a community on shore of equal numbers. Probably this may be accounted for by the absence of those differences which prevail where each wor- shipper, preferring his own shibboleth to the common grounds of agree- ment, separates himself from his fellows, and sets up a little Bethel of his own. Sunday at sea possesses attractions which cannot be enjoyed on land. Whilst the steamer with its many souls on board seems to be in the hollow of the hand of Him who holds the sea, there is no feeling of loneliness, nor of isola- tion, but there must exist the consciousness of the thought that whilst separated from the loved ones we have left behind, we have around and above us the watchful care of One who has, indeed, given wind and wave charge concerning us, and who has surrounded us with peacefulness and calm thus far on our voyage. Those who cross the ocean for the first time will be surprised to find how cheerily the days pass by ; there is no monotony whatever. A healthful promenade, extending over no yards, affords a more agreeable walk than can usually be enjoyed ashore, and a series of aquatic and athletic sports engaged in by the gentlemen aboard, not only gives good exercise to the players, but affords amusement to those who look on. A well-selected library, containing 200 volumes of standard works, and of light, but well chosen, literature, gives opportunity to those who desire to read. These engagements fill up the time between meals. The real business of the day commences with breakfast at 8.30. This well- served meal is calculated not only to satisfy the appetite of the hungry, but to tempt those who are less robust, and who become somewhat fastidious ; a course of twenty dishes of choicest viands, served in the best manner, with an atten- tion on the part of the stewards which leaves nothing to be desired, enables all to enjoy the matutinal meal. Having given some idea of breakfast at sea, we will quote the bill of fare for dinner, which, subject to variety from day to day, fairly represents the style of living on board the magnificent vessel which is bearing us to the shores of the western hemisphere : — A Visit to Canada in connection ivith SoH/)s.— Mock Turtle and Julienne. Fiih — Turbot iind Anchovie Sauce, £;H(r«s.— Stewed Ducks and Olives, Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce, Jugged Hare, Dccfsteak and Kidney Pudding, and Curried Chicken. Jointi Wortst.— Ucof and Yorkshire Pudding, Saddle Mutton and Currant Jelly, Sucking Pig and Sage and Onions, and Turkey and Sausages. Jointi lioiled.—CuincA Beef and Vegetables, I-owis and Egg Sauce, and Ham and Tongue. Vigetablti.—Tomatoc%, French Beans, and Potatoes. PuUiiiiigs and /'ns**-^.— Bakewell and Phiin Pudding.s, Greengage and Rhubarb Pies, Sand- wich Pastry, Peacli Souftic, Marmalade Tartlets, and Calves'-foot Jelly. Z)«s«rf.— Strawberries and Or.inj/es, Raisins, I'igs, Almonds, Barcelonas, and Walnuts. Tea and Cotlee. The seats at table are allotted by the purser, and much depends upon this arrangement for the comfort and pleasure of the voyage. It was my good fortune to have immediately opposite to me i\Ir. Aitkcn, who is not only an artist of emi- nence, but a gentleman of varied experience in home and foreign travel, and who, with his accomplis'icd wife— sitting opposite me at table — are making a prolonged tour throughout the Dominion and the United States. On my other side was a lady from Portland, Maine, who, with another lady, had made a tour throughout Europe during the past year, and who, I was interested to know, had visited the good old town of Southampton, sojourning at St. Denys for a brief period. This agreeable companionship, with the excellent attention 1 received at the hands of the chief steward, made social life on board of the most agreeable character. Before sailing from Moville, a printed list of saloon passengers was laid on the table for each occupant. LIFE ON THE OCEAN WAVE. Whether the Parisian is the best and steadiest vessel crossing the Atlantic, or that the ocean is more calm and smooth than usual, experience enables me not to decide, but I can say that up to the fifth day out there has not been more motion in the vessel or unpleasantness in our voyage than has often been ex- perienced in a passage between Southampton and the Isle of Wight. The ports in the saloon are open, and I know not of a single hour hitherto that they need to have been closed, and not a single spray has come on the deck of the steamer. In reading of the construction of the Parisian, I remember it was stated that some special arrangement was made to prevent her rolling. Whether this be the case or no, the fact remains that she is as steady and upright as if she were navi- gating Lough Foyle or the River St. Lawrence, instead of being in 56.16 N. lat., and 34.57 VV. long. In fact I think the Atlantic is a much maligned ocean, and if Artemus Ward were on board, I feel assured he would suggest our getting up a testimonial in favour of a sea which has been greatly traduced, and if he were to, I should pray in aid the testimony of one of our passengers who is proudly seated at the highest point that the main shrouds will enable him to climb. Athletic sports prevail to-day. Such tricks and feats as were never witnes.sed on land enliven the hours, as they are engaged in on the main deck, whilst the steerage passengers and the intermediates amuse themselves with skip-rope, leap- frog, and tug-of-war. I have gone through the intermediate and steerage berths, and am pleased to see how cheerful and well satisfied their occupants are. The intermediate cabins are as roomy and comfortable as the first class, but of course not so well fitted up ; yet for comfort they lack nothing. I was pleased with the steerage accom- modation, which was sweet and healthy. The scale of provisions leaves nothing to be desired. Speaking generally the passengers in both these classes have a far more abundant supply of well-cooked food than they can consume. Many an emigrant from old Ireland I saw with more fresh meat for a single meal than he could obtain for a whole week's supply in the land he was leaving. The emigrants, for the most part, are full of hope, and I believe will succeed, especially those who have children of an age enabling them to work. A Southampton man returns with his daughter to Minnedosa ; he was the second to fix upon this spot five years ago, when the place was desolate, but he had faith in its future, and now, after so short a time, the town is becoming populated. It has a church and a public school, and the railway runs close by. It is thus that towns and cities spring up in the Dominion. The The British Association Meetings 1884. nessed St the leap- lythe ooked N with upply hope, abling dosa ; :e was town lilvvay The city of Winnipeg, the capital of the province of Manitoba, is one of the most remarkable instances of rapid development in Canada, the hamlet of fourteen years ago now being the progressive city of 30,000 inhabitants. At the morning service to-day, which Mr. Fegan held in connexion with his boys, but which is attended by passengers from all parts of the steamer, the Rev A. B. Sole delivered an address which was greatly enjoyed, and will doubtless be remembered for many a day by his hearers when, in after years, they are scattered abroad in Canada. The subject was the love of God, and Mr. Sole beautifully illustrated it by two thrilling anecdotes, one relating to the love which animated a captain's heart who longed to make a quick passage to see a loved child who was dying; the other, that of a mother who scarred and destroyed the beauty of her face in the attempt to rescue her two darling children from death by fire. THE NORTH-WEST AS A SETTLEMENT, Amongst our passengers, not the least agreeable is Mr. Sidney J. Pocock, wiiobc interesting work, "A Wiltshire Man's Travels across the Prairie Lands of Manitoba, " gives a vivid description of a journey he made in 1882 through a portion of the great north-west. Proceeding to West Lynne, a town bordering on the U.S. boundary, he went out in search of good farming land to the river Souris, about 300 miles S.W. of Winnipeg, driving the whole distance across the prairie. Arriving at the Pembian mountain our author found but poor accom- modation, the bedrooms making up five beds, each occupied by two persons. The difficulties of travelling through creeks and sloughs, being interpreted, give a good idea of Bunyan's Slough of Despond. These difficulties and trials were, however, compensated for by the abundance of game, which afforded excellent sport. Bad as was the accommodation at Pembian, it became worse ; at one Elace the only hut accessible was described as the dirtiest in the Dominion, every ed being engaged, the floor, coated with mud, affording the only resting place for the night. In the opinion of Mr. Pocock, the lands he passed tnrough were splendid for agricultural pursuits, and he expresses the assurance that many who are now wasting their capital at home would soon make fortunes in the great north-west, where there are millions of acres of land ready to pour forth a rich harvest in response to the skill and industry of the British farmer. Passing on with varying incident, our adventurous traveller reached Moose Mountain Creek, and thirty miles from thence discovered indications of mineral deposits, and, upon close inspection, found on the river Souris an excellent seam of good quick burning coal. Mr. Pocock is to be congratulated that he was able to secure 800 acres of this valuable land direct from the Hudson's Bay Company at so moderate a price as will secure to him a handsome profit. It is thus that the north-west portions of our Dominion are opening up sources of wealth to those who have sufficient enterprise to go in and possess the land. My experience is that a trip across to Canada by the Allan line is one of the most agreeable modes of enjoying a holiday, and by availing themselves of the facilities afforded by the Canadian Pacific Railway, a journey into Mani- toba and the North-West may prove a source of profit to those who combine pleasure with business. LOCAL EMIGRANTS. The Press does not appear to have any other representative on board, except Mr. Charles Fox, proprietor of the Kingsbridge Gazette. I need not say how agreeable he is, as all gentlemen connected with the fourth estate are, or at least, should be, especially when shut up on board ship. Some of the inter- mediates have been so far friendly as to hand me their text books, that they may possess the autograph of an unworthy scribe. From the inscriptions I find they were presented to the owners by the I.O.G.T. Undercliff Lodge 217 ; so I feel a local interest in them. They appear to be of the class that is certain to succeed in Canada. Another passenger is a Devonshire man, who after a residence of 46 years near Toronto returned to the old home in June, only to find one surviving relative, the graveyard alone recording the names of friends of earlier years. I found a Southampton lad in the steerage— Geo. A Visit to Canada in connection with Wm. Smith, formerly a member of the choir at Trinity, who was proceeding to Winnipeg, with the wide Dominion before him, but without a friend to guide him, beyond the Heavenly Father whom the Rev. Cresswell Strange had taught him to love. I had no difficulty in annexing him to Mr. Fegan's band, that gentleman kindly finding him a home with Mr. Nichol, in Souris- bury, Manitoba, at 120 dollars per annum, in addition to board and lodging. IN A FOG. — AMONG THE ICEBERGS. On Thursday night we ran into a fog, which induced Capt. Wylie to slow the engines down, and so with diminished speed and the fog-whistle going at frequent intervals, we only jogged along. The rule laid down in the steamers of the Allan line to run dead slow in a fog is rigidly observed by those in command; and as we are entering the regions of icebergs, the temperature of the sea is taken occasionally, as any sudden depression of the thermometer would indicate the close proximity of ice. Had it not been for the fog we had confidently hoped to have been within the Straits of Belle Isle this evening. Possibly the great care taken for the safety of the Allan steamers is to be accounted for by the fact that none of them are insured. At Mr. Fegan's service on deck this morning (23rd), the address was given by the Rev. A. B. Sole, who, speaking from the words of the Apostle Paul addressed to Timothy, " Endure hardness, as a good soldier of Jesus Christ, " illustrated his subject by relating how that Melville, the best cross-country rider, when asked to explain how it was that he could make his horse jump anything, replied — " I always put my heart first, and where my heart is I cannot fail. " Mr. Sole also related how that, on the eve of a battle in the Peninsula, when the British troops were hemmed in by the Spaniards, the Duke of Wellington, walking round, heard his soldiers foretell disaster, for, said they, the enemy has more artillery, and better cavalry, and will outnumber us. " What, " said the Iron Duke, " do you reckon me as ? I am equal, with your help, to all the battalions of the enemy " ; and his men feeling that they must endure hard- ness as good soldiers of their country, the morrow found them victorious. The truth of the text was forcibly impressed upon the lads, who doubtless in their new homes beyond the Atlantic, profiting by the good advice, will endure hardness, and so attain to success in life. I had access to the log of the Parisian when she made the fastest passage on record, between Ireland and Quebec, and as she had up to Tuesday run some few miles in excess, we were anticipating an even quicker voyage, but we reckoned without our hoat, for the fog into which we ran continued at intervals until Wed- nesday night. Capt. Wylie, with a prudence begotten of sound judgment and a lengthened experience, put his vessel about and steamed slowly to the eastward ; and at seven on Thursday morning we were abreast of Belle Isle, retarded some 12 hours by reason of the fog. We had scarcely sighted the sun since leaving Ireland, but no sooner did we enter the Gulf of St. Lawrence than "Old Sol" shone forth in all his brightness, lighting up the icebergs in all their grandeur. No pen of mine can describe the scene which presented itself as we promenaded the deck of the Parisian on this beautiful morning — date, July 24th —midsummer at home. I should note that the lower degrees of the temperature of the ocean on the precedi.ig day gave indications of our nearness to the ice, and was doubtless one of the reasons which induced our skilful commander to put his ship about. I was called on deck to see an iceberg; by the time I had the opportunity of seeing it others were in view, and soon we were able to count 30 all around us. As the steamer was cautiously steered clear, more and more came rapidly in view, and were to be numbered by scores in sight at the same time, and we must have passed during the day many hundreds. Well, what is an iceberg like? It would be impossible accurately to describe it. Of every conceivable form and size, from mere blocks of floating ice that we would gladly stow in our refrigerator, to towering moun- tains, to be measured by hundreds of feet in height, with corresponding dimensions in breadth and width, some assuming the form of castles, of batteries, of forts, of lighthouses, of ruined buildings, of vessels dismasted and wrecked The British Association Meeting, 1884. as we >f the amess skilful iberg: soon ously bered le day ssible locks uoun- nding eries, 3cked and only their hulls left covered in by the eternal snows of many winters, of huge leviathans which had been cast ashore and floated out to sea again, enshrouded in mantles of snow, of polar bears in a never ending state of hybernation, of embattlements whose crests are surmounted with flashing Eennons, fleets of yachts whose hulls and spars as well as sails are bleached y the fleecy snow, of steam launches whose tiny hulls and steam pipes are faintly outlined, by every form known and unknown— the variety of which can be conceived by the phantasms produced by a kaleidoscope, the colour, however, never changing from the eternal polar white. It is needless to say all bergs are covered with snow ; some, however, have cracks and rifts, which, laying the ice open, the beauty of colour of the ice so exposed is of the richest hue. We were steaming for about nine hours with icebergs in sight, and as our speed is 15 knots it may be judged bow vast the field of ice is in this region. The thermometer stood at 38 at 7 a.m., and by 2 p.m. it had risen to 50. At one period we saw the wonderful . efiiects produced by a mirage. If it is difiicult to describe the icebergs as they stood in their isolation, it is far more difficult to give an idea of the strange appearance produced by the refraction of the atmosphere whereby the bergs appear to rise out of the sea and join hands, as it were, with their kindred bergs descending from the skies. The whole scene must be witnessed; it cannot be adequately described either by pen or pencil. The novelty of the icebergs, though so attractive, does not prevent our observing the general aspect of the entrance through the straits. We pass to the left of the island, having Newfoundland on our left as we get further on, and the inhospitable shores of Labrador open upon our view to the right, as we clear Belle Isle. NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR. Many parts of the coast still retain the snows of winter, though not in any quantity. It is singular that we had scarcely passed into the ice district than the temperature became much warmer. Whether it was the icebergs, or the sunshine, or the placid waters of the Gulf, or a combination of these influences I know not ; but the scene on board was more exhilarating, and during the voyage, every one was on deck. All effects of nial de mer had passed away, and though we were sailing out, there seemed to be a homeward bound feeling pervading all hearts. The voyage throughout had been most enjoyable ; the ocean calm and still ; the vessel without perceptible motion to those accustomed to ship board, but to-day we were sailing as if upon an inland lake, the water all around like a sea of glass. To those in search of health and enjoyment no better advice can be tendered than to take a passage in one of the steamers of the Allan line (the Parisian for choice), and enjoy such a day as this, surrounded by the wonderful icebergs as we are. At first we keenly looked out with unassisted vision, and then with telescope and field glass, for the bear, which, in remembrance of the stories of our youth and the illustrated literature of our later years, we fully anticipated seeing perched upon the apex of every iceberg, but whether they were non-existent, or had modestly retired to the other side, this deponent sayeth not. It is sufficient that we have no record of the appearance of Bruin entered upon the log of the ship. Photos were taken of many icebergs as well as of several other interesting objects during the voyage. There were many amateur photo- graphers on board, the most successful being Mr. G. S. Eunson, a student at Edinburgh College, and, we believe, the youngest member of the British Associa- tion. He gives promise of attaining an eminent position in the profession of engineer, for which he is specially training. THE BARNARDO HOMES. On Wednesday evening Dr. Barnardo, who is well known in connection with rescue work in London, delivered an address upon the condition of the outcast children in the metropolis, and gave many interesting instances in which he had been able to save some of the most wretched from lives of misery and crime, and to find for them situations whereby they were enabled to make a good start in life. It appears that no less than 600 have been emigrated to Canada, and that 1.400 waifs and strays are at present comfortably housed and cared for in the 8 A Visit to Canada in connection with homes superintended by the doctor. Canon Carver presided over the meeting, which was held in the saloon. On Thursday evening a concert was held in behalf of the Liverpool Seamen's Orphan Institution, resulting in the addition of upwards of ^43 to its funds. This handsome sum was largely increased by the sale of programmes, half a dozen of which were real works of art. We had on board two artists of considerable ability, Mr. James A. Aitken, of Glasgow, and Mr. Woodcock. These gentlemen generously executed six water colour drawings, which headed as many pro- grammes, and were sold by auction, realising from two to three guineas each. The assembly of the passengers was taken advantage of to express to Captain Wylie the high appreciation in which that gentleman was held by all on board the " Parisian," many of whom had known and crossed the ocean with him for years past. The Commodore was not present, as he was taking the rest rendered so needful by his having been on duty of an anxious nature during the preceding three nights. Captain Wylie might well feel proud of his position as senior officer in the Allan line, the success of which is largely due to the care and prudence exercised by those having charge of this noble fleet. The experience gained by the captain was shown by the wise and prudent course he adopted when he put his ship about, sacrificing 12 hours of time rather than imperil her safety, or that of the 800 persons entrusted to his care. Few living men have the record of 700 passages across the Atlantic, without loss or damage, as Captain Wylie could boast of, were he not as modest as he is skilful. By " mailing " this (we do not "post "here) at Rimouski we save a week. We had determined upon landing there ourselves, but the savants on board in solemn conclave resolved that the proper course to be pursued was for the members of the Association to go on to Quebec, and. reporting themselves there en masse, be guided by the local com- mittee, who would receive them on their arrival, as to their future proceedings. LAND A-HEAD. During our passage up the St. Lawrence the phosphorescence on the water, as it was parted into waves by the ploughing of the " Parisian " through it, formed a beautiful picture below us, and was rendered more lovely still by the magni- ficent display of the Aurora Borealis, which illumined the northern sky. On the evening of the last day on board a very interesting service was held on the deck of the vessel, conducted by Mr. Fegan, whose boys as usual formed the choir. Addresses were delivered by Dr. Bamado and Mr. Pegler, the Rev. A. B. Sole concluding with prayer. At the final service on the following morning Mr. Fegan delivered a parting address from the words "Ye must be born again." Mr. Brace took part in many services, though during the earlier part of the voyage he was unable to do so, the spirit being willing but the flesh very weak. Mr. King (of Penrith) kindly collected £5, and handed it to Mr. Fegan for distribution amongst the boys. As we approach the close of a most agreeable voyage I must place on record the high opinion I have formed with regard to the " Parisian " and all her belong- ings. There are larger steamers afloat, some with more decorative display, poss- essing probably greater attractions to those who do not look beneath the surface, but I unhesitatingly say that for comfort, as an ocean-going steamer, nothing can surpass the " Parisian." Her speed is fully equal to any steamer running to the Dominion; the vibration and motion, which in many vessels is a source of dis- comfort, is in her reduced to a minimum, and, with much and varied experience, I can say there has not been at any time in crossing the Atlantic nearly so much rolling and pitching as I have often undergone in the waters of the Solent. Captain Wylie, who is the commodore of the Allan line, devotes himself to the safety of his vessel, and the discipline and good conduct of all on board. A skil- ful navigator, an accomplished Atlantic seaman, and withal a gentleman, who commands the respect of his crew, and the sympathy of his passengers, is a fitting commander of the crack ships of the Allan line. The menu speaks of the bountiful provision made for the wants of the passengers in the saloon, whilst the attention displayed by the stewards is beyond praise. I was fortunate enough to have the chief saloon steward, Mr. Huxley, ia immediate attendance, whose sixteen The British Association Meeting, 1884. record |belong- poss- brface, |ng caa to the of dis- (rience, much Solent. to the |A skil- who I fitting intiful lention have ixteen years service in the company is a sufficient guarantee that not only was I well supplied with everything necessary for my comfort at table, but that every want was anticipated by him. So satisfied was I with everything on board, with the safety and comfort of the steamer, that it will be a source of anticipated Eleasure throughout my visit to America if I can so arrange as to secure a berth omeward in the " Parisian " for the 4th of October. I never realized fully the American term a real " square meal," until I had spent a complete day on board the " Parisian," and then being free from all apprehension of suffering from mat de mer, and being blessed with a good appetite and unimpaired digestion, " I guess" the ship was not in my debt at its close. I was anxious to see for myself how those fared who had not the luxuries enjoyed by us in the saloon, and I must say I am astonished at the excellent accommodation and abundant supply of good well-cooked food provided, not only for the intermediate passengers, but for those in the steerage. I am certain that the living of the latter is far better both in quality and quantity than they usually have had at home, besides the advantage of the excellent cooking. It is generally admitted that the "Parisian" has the most commodious and airy steerage of any steamer sailing out of Liverpool. Mr. Fegan's lads have a spacious compartment to themselves, with abundant space both for living and sleeping. So well are the general arrangements carried out, that the suloon passengers need not even see any other grade, and they scarcely ever come in contact with the crew. We passed the Island of Anticosta about four o'clock this (Friday) morning. The shore on the south-west presents a grand appearance. The land, which undulates in graceful outline, is covered with fine timber from the crest to the water's edge. The Canadian pine is well to the fore, but the other trees do not resemble those in the old country. But few dwellings are to be seen, and these are shanties. There is no sign of cultivated land, there being trees every where ; a few "chines," as they are called in the Isle of Wight, debouch upon the shore. On the other side a wide expanse of water is all we can see, no shore being visible at present. We are passing the district of Gasby. The town of that name is well known. A rock upwards of 100 feet high standing in its front, isolated by the sea, the action of the water has produced an opening at its base, through which boats of fairly large size can sail. The scene varies, and abreast of us just now there is exposed to view a grand formation of the Laurentian rocks. The distances run are as follow : — Thursday (left Liverpool) Friday (arrived Mouville) ... ... ... ... igo knots Noon, Saturday ... ... ... ... ... 260 „ „ Sunday (first complete day) ... ... ... 346 „ ,. Monday 344 „ „ Tuesday ... ... ... ... ... 3^5 „ „ Wednesday (fog, half-speed) ... ... ... 2>io ,. „ Thursday (fog, put ship about) ... ... ... 217 „ „ Friday 354 .• 8.336 CANADA REACHED. We reached Rimouski at midnight of Friday, and after landing mails and passengers, proceeded to Quebec, arriving there at about noon on Saturday, and had it not been for the detention occasioned by fogs and ice, should have accom- plished one of the quickest passages on record. Sailing up the St. Lawrence, we passed the Travers and Upper Travers lightships. Like those at home, they are painted red, but quite different in build and rig, appearing more like schooner yachts than vessels of our lightship type. At 8 a.m. we passed some rough, craggy rocks in the river, upon one of which was a lighthouse named the Pillas. The tender which took off the mails was very un-English in appearance, her hull and deckhouse giving some idea of what might have been Noah's notion of a steamship, whilst a pair of beam engines working high above the deck added to the antiquated lines upon which the vessel had been built. Like all other steamers plying within the limits of Quebec and its neighbourhood, the tender was painted white. One disadvantage in landing is that the berth for the mail steamers is at Point Levis, on the shore opposite Quebec, and about a mile from xo A Visit to Canada in connection with the ferry, by which passengers, horses, and vehicles cross over. On landing we immediately searched out the chief officer of Customs, whose courtesy rendered the passage of our baggage a most facile proceeding. Before leaving the Parisian, it is only due to record the sense of obligation under which all were placed by the skill, care, and diligence displayed on the part of the chief engineer, Mr. Oliver White, whose service in the Allan Line covers a period of 21 years, and who for the past 15 years has held the respon* sible position of chief in their best steamers. The care of machinery of such a class as propels the Parisian, demands engineering ability of the highest order, and this is combined in the person of Mr. White, with physical proportions rare, even in his native Scotia, also with a courteous bearing which ensures the good- will of all who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. EARLY CANADIAN EXPERIENCES. The ferry boat is a ponderous machine, more like a pier with a covered way than a steamboat. It is propelled by a beam engine with a cylinder of 26-in. and 8-ft. stroke, with a pressure of 30-lbs. of steam. The road from the landing stage to the ferry at point Levis I thought was the worst I ever saw, until later I drove through the streets of Quebec^ which are, if possible, worse ; whilst the toll-gate rates are high in the extreme, 50 cents being charged for a pair of horses. The side walks are all wood, and in many places wretchedly bad. In steaming up the St. Lawrence, we had a tolerable view of the Montmo- rency Falls, and as these are by far the most interesting and attractive object in this part of the Dominion, we drove over a distance of about six miles to see them in their grandeur. Our first incident was a singular one. We had to pass a level crossing on the railway, and, as is the case on this continent, the line is not fenced in or guarded in any way except that on the approach of a train the man on duty lowers a bar of wood to stop the traffic. It happened that our car- riage was close to the crossing at the time a train was coming, and this wooden bar was literally lowered away at the moment, and, like the sword of Damocles, hung over our heads. Gradually descending, it cleared us, but left only a small space between itself and us. We passed over two bridges at a walking pace, warned by the avis that a greater speed would involve the driver in a penalty of 20 dollars. The houses were very poor, nearly all built of wood, and none resting upon the ground, but approached by a flight of steps, with a verandah, or simply a platform running the length of the building. The blinds for the windows were of a deep blue colour. The farming operations were on a poor scale, though for the most part the grass was cut by machinery ; haymaking was at its height, a continuous rain having retarded it about three weeks. The crop of bay was good, but all other crops, whether of cereals or mangold, far below those at home. There were a few patches of maize and tobacco. Everything in Quebec and the neighbourhood is French, and but few of the lower class can carry on conversa- tion in English. The names of the people and of the streets, too, are French. But one handsome building was passed on the road, and this was an asylum for lunatics. It is built in excellent taste, • " * the extensive grounds which sur- round it afford recreation to its unfortv nates. An elegant fountain sends forth jets of water, and appeared to , ...act the attention of the patients who surrounded it. A large cross has been erected by the temperance party on the side of the road. Many of the houses have lightning conductors attached to them, and in not a few instances they have also ladders kept on the roof, indicat- ing the frequent need of repair ret uired by the wooden shingle with which they are roofed. The citizens of Queb jc and those outside evince great respect for the sparrows ; on many of the houses, as well as on poles, little houses being erected for the little perky, brown-coated birds so familiar on both sides of the Atlantic. I am informed that the sparrow appreciates the attention thus bestowed upon it, and builds its nest and rears its young in the house provided for it. It is far more easy to describe the incidents related above than to even faintly pourtray the grandeur of the Montmorency Falls, to visit which a charge of 25 cents is made. At the top, on the opposite side of the Falls, a beautiful scene presents itself : on one side across the St. Lawrence stands the Island of Orleans, The British Association Meetings 1884. zi \ intly of 25 scene eans, further on Point Levis, and a grand panoramic view of Quebec meets your gaze on the right. The Falls can only be seen from the opposite side ; and from the first time they are opened to view until they are seen from the lowest point, they !)resent constantly-changing scenes of varied beauty. To reach withm about 25 eet of the bottom, the visitor has to descend some 370 steps. The Falls are about 260 feet high, and although they do not for one moment compare with those at Niagara, the fall of water is 100 feet greater. About 40 years since, a suspension bridge was erected over the Falls, but shortly after it was opened it fell in, carrying with its deiris a horse and cart with three occupants. Their fate need hardly he told. The Falls have been diverted from their original site, a deep gorge showing the effects produced at a distance of about half a mile from the present Falls. The masonry of the suspension bridge still exists, and appears solid enough to support the necessary weight if the bridge were to be re- constructed. The depth of water at the base of the Falls has been taken, and proves to be 96 feet. From Quebec to the Falls is one continuous street, and it IS understood that a succession of houses is continued beyond to an extent of 27 miles from the city. By the way, the miles appeared much shorter than our English miles. THE STREETS OF QUEBEC. The Post Ofi&ce is not only a good building, but the arrangements for the delivery of letters to those who are privileged with private boxes is most com- plete, as it is throughout the Dominion. Each box is numbered, and can be opened by the subscriber from the outside. By the wretched appearance of the telegraph and lamp posts (all of which are wood) you would suppose you were far distant from a city where the chief industry is in lumber. The ascent to the mountain, which is the upper part of the town, is long and steep. An elevator has been constructed, worked ^y hydraulic power, which takes passengers about 200 feet, at an angle of a^ 75 to 80 degrees, at a charge of three cents. The street carriages are mos» - our own ; the four-wheelers are exceedingly light, and built after the fashiu.. of a by-gone period, the wheels in front being nearly as high as those behind. They have no drag or skid to take the weight off the horse ; still they go down the steep hills in safety. This is in part to be attributed to the horses, which are well bred, being so long pasterned. The two-wheelers are called caleches, and are, in fact, cabriolets in miniature, with hoods to raise and lower at convenience ; the driver is seated on the splash-board. Instead of the public conveyances bearing a number, the horse carries its distinctive numeral on its forehead. The harness is after the English pattern. Among the many bad streets I had noted St. Ursula as the worst, but since then I have passed through others quite as bad, if not worse ; the streets of Quebec, I think, might with truth be declared a disgrace to any city. Where the railways cross the streets at an elevation, great taste has been displayed in building the viaducts. St. John's gate is an illustration of this. Sunday in Quebec is very quiet, and in this particular differs from its resem- blance in so many other respects to France. The Sunday closing of public- houses is rigidly enforced, and there is almost an entire absence of all kinds of business. The population is about 60,000 — being some 6,000 less than a few years since. Of these, 6,000 only are Protestants. CHURCHES IN QUEBEC. There are, besides the Cathedral, four Episcopal Churches, two Presbyterian, and one each Methodist, Baptist, and French Protestant Churches. The Y.M.C.A, have a very fine building, the president being Mr. J. C. Thompson, with a membership of 430. The meeting on Sunday, July 27th, was attended by the Rev. A. B. Sole, Mr. Alfred Pegler, and Mr. King, from Penrith, who were welcomed by the President, and each addressed the meeting. Mr. Sole read from the 20 chap., 11. Chronicles, and remarked that as the children of Judah were a separate people, and drawn more closely to one another, so we who were Christians were all drawn to each other, whether we were living on the great continent of America, or, as some were, inhabitants of a small island on the other side of the Atlantic. Mr. Sole specially alluded to the 15th verse, in which it is 12 t A Visit to Canada in connection with written, " For the battle is not yours, but God's," and so, he urged, especially upon young men, that when troubles arose or toil seemed so heavy as to depress the spirit, they were to remember the battle was not theirs, but would find that if they trusted Him it would be the Lord's, adding that when the fishermen had toiled all the night and taken nothing, the moment the Lord appeared they were favoured with great success. To disappointed young men he would say " The spirit of the Lord is upon us," and to those who were going back, owing to the hardness by the way, "The battle is not ours, but the Lord's," reminding his hearers of that great and glorious category of heroes, whose wonderful faith is recorded in the nth Hebrews, and who overcame because they cast themselves upon the everlasting arms of God. The rev. gentleman instanced the opinion expressed to him by a missionary, who, upon being asked what his greatest dimculty had been, replied " I find my greatest difi&culty in myself. Therefore," said he, "young men, forget yourselves and remember that the battle is the Lord's, and not ours." Even Jehoshaphat went back when he forsook the Lord, and joined himself with Ahaziah, and acted up to the words contained in the 15th verse, " For the battle is not yours, but the Lord's," The meeting was concluded by Mr. Sole, who engaged in prayer. The Roman Catholic Church of St. Patrick is of very poor exterior, but in- ternally is a grand building. Erected in 1832, it has recently been greatly enlarged, the walls and ceiling being frescoed. It contains a magnificent organ. The attendance at the various churches was very small, a large proportion of the worshippers being absent for their summer holiday. To such an extent is this the case that all the Sunday-schools are closed during the hottest portion of the year. The moment you enter a Protestant Church all sense of the over- powering French feeling ceases, and an English atmosphere surrounds you. In regard to dress, both as to style, material and colour, the habiliments of both sexes are precisely the same as we left behind in the old world. In the Methodist Church our home feelings were stirred by the choir singing, very sweetly, the hymn commencing " Prepare me, dear Saviour, for glory, my home" to the tune of " Home, sweet home." In this church fans were provided in nearly all the pews. In the Protestant Cathedral two tattered flags, the colours of the 69th Regiment, were suspended, one on either side, their condition indicating not only lengthened service, but hard fought fields. The shipping trade of Quebec is like to that at home. As an indication of the great depression which exists, it may be noted that the firm of which Mr. Senator Ross is the head possesses a fleet of 150 steamers and sailing vessels, of which but 76 are in commission. This firm have two handsome barques on the stocks, with all spars and rigging set up ready to bend sails ; but they do not even contemplate launching them till the shipping interests are brighter. It will be noted that they do not launch the vessels they build along the shore of the St. Laurence until they are " all a-taut oh " ; even the ballast is stowed first. There are river excursions six times daily down the St. Lawrence to Orleans, the fare being 20 cents for the round trip, but it does not compare in any respect with the shilling trips of the Isle of Wight Company at home. These steamers not only carry a large number of cork life-belts, but in addition about 200 lengths of deal, and this by Government regulation. HOTEL LIFE IN QUEBEC. Our location is at the St. Louis ; the exterior has no architectural pretensions, but the interior is after the American plan. The entrance hall is capacious, as it needs to be when such an influx of passengers arrive as came by the " Parisian," with such a quantity of luggage as few home hotels could have readily dealt with. The bill of fare of 47 varieties for breakfast will satisfy most people, whilst for dinner a choice of upwards of 40 dishes is provided, so that if you do not make a good " square meal" it is not for want of variety. Jugs of milk are supplied ad libitum both at breakfast and dinner, with an abundance of iced water. It is quite an exception for wine or beer to be taken at dinner. The hotel is quite an emporium, ofifering all kinds of bric-a-b?ac for sale. One thing marred my dinner on the 26th. Seeing "frogs' legs, breaded sauce, and tomatoes" on ihQ carte, 1 set my The British Association Meeting, 1884. 13 nsions, s, as it isian," with, dinner I good ibitum lite an )rium, the t my on mind upon them, but they were all eaten, and notwithstanding a peremptory order to furnish some for the following day, I was doomed to leave the city with this desire unsatisfied. Apples of last year are as sound and good as if but recently gathered. Apples of this year are now ripe, but the fruit is very poor, and nothing to equal our own ; I speak of cherries, raspberries, &c. Bass's ale is 50 cents per bottle. The St. Louis accommodates 500 guests, and for those beyond this number Russell House has been annexed, with a further capacity for 200 visitors. It need hardly be remarked that the St. Louis is not an hotel to be sought by those who desire to travel at a minimum expenditure. MORE ABOUT QUEBEC. Quebec has acquired the name of the Silver City from the brightness of the roofs of the churches and other buildings, these being in many instances covered with plates of tin, and so long as the tin retains its brilliancy, and when the sun shines thereon, the i;ffedl is such as in some degree to justify the appellation. Although not a public sight, by the courtesy of Mr. Holt, a member of the firm of Renfrew and Co., an establishment largely patronised by the Princess Louise, I was permitted to see a choice collection of Canadian furs. Amongst the most beautiful specimens were those of the silver-grey fox ; these rare skins are largely sought for by the Chinese through the London market, and realise upwards of /20 each. I also saw the fur of the wolverine, deemed by the hunters to be the most cunning of all animals ; with griz^iy bear from the Rocky Mountains, pure white fox, very choice coats for gentlemen lined with minx and trimmed with otter, musk ox, and many others highly esteemed by ladies. Mr. Holt possesses three young bears, and a couple of beavers about three months old ; these latter are very tame, though not so sociable as a young minx he had, which would run up inside the trousers and work its way under the waistcoat, coming out at the collar. Amongst the many objeifts of historic interest with which Quebec abounds, the monument ereded on the plains of Abraham, itself of simple charadter, bears the inscription, pregnant with memories of noble deeds — " Here died Wolfe vidlorious, Sept. 13th, 1759." Near thereto is ereded a massive prison, whilst a racecourse, fallen into disuetude, is in immediate proximity. The spot where Montgomery met his death, in St. Louis-street, is marked by a wooden sign, on which is inscribed words that take the memory back to the old country, and to the old Vidory of Nelson's renown — " Here Montgomery fell." The Dufiferin-terrace is a beautiful promenade, overlooking the St. Lawrence. It is about 1,400 feet long and 40 feet wide, having a bandstand and many shelter houses erefted on it. At the south end the citadel is approached by an ascent of about 200 steps. The citadel being reached, the view is varied and charming ; Levis on the opposite shore, a convent being a striking objed, and a range of mountains on the north-east, the Governor's garden at the back, on which is ereded a monument to the joint memories of Wolfe and Montcalm. The echo from this spot is peculiarly striking, the noise of the steam-whistle calling up its reverberations from shore to shore. RIVER STEAMERS. I left Quebec per steamer Montreal for the city of that name at 5 p.m. on Monday, and just as we were casting off the Ontario came alongside the landing stage. This steamer had left the Irish coast some hours before the Parisian on the i8th, so the latter was two days iive hours shorter on the voyage, notwith- standing the detention by reason of the ice and fog. The Orleans gives a fair idea of the river steamers on this side. The vessel is about 300 feet long by 60 feet beam. The main saloon, about 90 feet by 15 feet, and height about 20 feet, has state rooms around, and above is a gallery leading into another tier of sleeping cabins. It is furnished with a grand piano, lounges, easy chairs, &c. The engine is seen in the centre, and then the saloon runs about 75 feet aft. There is a f>assage on either side, within the outer row of state rooms, about 120 feet in ength. There is an actual promenade of about 200 feet. There are open spaces, H A Visit to Canada in connection with but covered in at each end. The above is on the main deck ; above are sleeping berths all round, approached by an easy flight of stairs. There are 113 separate state rooms, with 350 berths. As on all steamers over here, great precautions are taken in case of accident or fire, every man on board having his assigned place, their several quarters being printed and hung up on board ; and two life-belts are provided for each state room. These rooms have a floor of about six feet square oesides the berths, which are wide. The number of passengers is 800 ; gross tonnage, 539 ; net, after allowing space for machinery, 283 ; the engine 153 adtual horse power, with 351b. pressure of steam. The run up the St. Lawrence — 180 miles — is accomplished in 14 hours. The steamer is comfortable and enjoyable in every respedt save one, and that is the steward's department. No steward in the Isle of Wight Company would think of serving meals, or having the dining saloon in such a wretched condition as I found on board the Montreal. We called at Batiscan at 10.30, and at two other places during the night. The navigation rs intricate and full of danger, and no one who has ever gone up in a river steamer would wonder that the ocean-going vessels make Quebec their port of embarkation and debarkation. The shores of the river are flat but interesting. The sun-rise on Tuesday was glorious, and gave promise of the bright day that followed. There are numerous islands in the river, and further up they so abound as to be known as the Thousand Islands. A novelty we passed was a raft composed of three tiers of baulks of timber, having two somewhat tastily built log houses, two canvas tents, and a third shanty in course of eredion, the inhabitants of this floating island pursuing the duties of every-day life as if they were on Urrafirma. Not far below Montreal is a point known as the Trembling Point, and here the channel is very narrow. The city on its approach presents a marked contrast to Quebec ; the latter may be styled the city of the past, that of Montreal the city of the future. The committee' of the British Association had located me upon Mr. F. Cole, with whom and his family I soon felt myself at home, the more so when I found that Mr. Cole had come from Cowes, in the Isle of Wight. The churches, Post-office, and other buildings, both public and commercial, mark out Montreal as a city of J)rogress, and it needs not the prophetic eye to predidt a great and glorious future or the place. It was singular that upon entering the noble building of the Y.M.C.A. I should find the Rev. A. B. Sole endeavouring to enlist the sympathy of the secretary on behalf of a young man who was with him, and more singular still for the youth to recognise and address me by name. I found he was James Vaughan Curtis, whose friends reside at 88, Shirley Road. Curtis will do well ; he has been out but five weeks, and has found ready employment at Petite Cotes on a farm. It was singular how many home associations presented themselves. I am reading an address, beatifully illuminated, which has just been presented to Hezekiah Arnold, a native of the Isle of Wight, where he is sojourning. It is signed by Fred. Cole, also from the Island ; and to-day I partake of a lobster for tea, which has been brought from Portland, Maine, by the daughter of the late Mr. Gibbs, of Southampton. Later on Mr. Charles Henry Norton, from Payne's Yard, Southampton, recognises me. I should note that Mr. Arnold has deserved well of the city, he having been engaged for 50 years here in imparting education of the highest charadler. On Tuesday I determined to shoot the Lachine Rapids. This was done by taking the cars leaving the Bonaventure depot for Lachine at 7.55 a.m., connedting with the steamer Beauhamois. Opposite Lachine is the village of Caughnawaga, interesting as the settlement of the once powerful Mohawk tribe of Iroquois, for so long the terror of the young French colony. The Indians enjoy the free life of voyageurs and guides. Leaving Lower Lachine on the left, the steamer passes the long and dangerous rapids of the Sault St. Louis. " Then are entered the Lachine rapids, the shortest but most turbulent on the river. Suddenly a scene of wild confusion bursty upon the eye ; waves are lashed into spray, and into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks which they are dashed against in the headlong impetuosity of the river. "Whirlpools, a storm-lashed sea, mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks Th6 British Association Meeting, 1884. 15 Idone by lnne(5ting Inawaga, pr so long yoyageurs [ong and rapids, infusion lousand ^eadlong iblimity lof rocks which, did Ihe vessel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course — if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid— she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and lost. Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like ' a thing of life,' and a second afterwards we were floating on the calm, unruffled bosom of the river below." This description is taken from the guide book. In my opinion (and having experienced far greater difficulty by encountering the bore in the Seine) the writing is too tall. Steaming down towards the Rapids our confidence was certainly not increased by the knowledge that an amateur was at the wheel ; but long before we approached the more difficult part there were four hands steering. Neither was the sight of a wrecked steamer within a few yards of our course an objed of inspiration. The approach to the Rapids presents a beautiful pidlure, though the Indian village has no special claim to notice, the houses being similar to those outside the reservation, and the church, with its spire, such as would adorn any English village. From Caughnawaga the celebrated La Cross players hail. The opposite shore is lovely, whilst in front are two charming islands, the Beloed Mountain, with a range of blue mountains, forming a grand background. Our steamer passed under the centre of one of the chief sights of Montreal, the Victoria Bridge, spanning the St. Lawrence for two miles, from point St. Charles to St. Lambert's, and designed to connect the lines of railway on the north and south sides of the river. To span the river at this juncture was a task of great difficulty. The current runs seven miles an hour, and in the spring the ice blocks come down with great force. The work, from the designs of Robert Stephenson and A. M. Ross, begun in 1854, was completed in 1859, and formally opened by the Prince of Wales. The bridge is 9,184 feet in length, and consists of a massive iron tube, with six pairs of double tubes on either side, supported by 24 piers of limestone and two terminal abutments, the piers having sharp wedge faces turned towards the current to break the ice. The dimensions of the piers at their summit are 33 feet in the line of the river by 16 feet in the line of the bridge ; and at their foundations, 92 by 22^ feet. The abutments are 242 by 34 feet at the top, and 290 by 92 feet at the foundation. The entrance to this triumph of engineering skill, the largest bridge in the world, is between high f)arapets of massive masonry, hewn in Egyptian style, over which, cut into the intel, are the words "Erected a.d. MDCCCLIX. Robert Stephenson and Alexander M. Ross, engineers." In the construction 8,250 tons of iron (prepared at Birkenhead, at home) in tubes were used, and 250,000 tons of stone ; its total cost was 6,300,000 dols. Having arranged all the preliminaries for the run of 2,600 miles through the great North-West, and by the courtesy of the manager sent a cablegram home, we proceeded to Toronto in a Pullman sleeping car at 8 p.m., reaching that city at 9.15 the following morning. The discomfort of a sleeping car is very great, and during the countless times I was awake during the night how gladly would I have exchanged the Pullman for my old berth in the Parisian. The mixing up of the passengers regardless of sex is not agreeable to our insular notions. Fancy a gentleman and his wife, her sister, three children, and a nurse being fixed up with the rest. The Grand Trunk is a single line throughout its course, though I hear they are beginning to double it in places. Its course follows, for many miles, the shores of Lake Ontario, a noble expanse of water ; the land along the line ; the style of farming ; and the quality of the crops, are uninviting to Englishmen ; and no one would think of leaving the old country for this neighbourhood. Montreal is the great Canadian port for the shipping of cheese to Europe. Mr. Hodgson, of St. Peter's-street, a large exporter, informed me that the deliveries for the week from Montreal amounted to 80,000, and from New York 90,000, each weighing 6olbs., the cost price of which before shipment was ^127,000. The cars are quite diffierent to those in use in Fngland ; there are two tiers of sleeping berths — one made upon the seats, the other overhead, formed by the front of the top part of the car, which is lowered away ; the space is sufficient in each for two persons. The charge for the night is two dollars, in addition to the fare. In i6 A Visit to Canada in connection with Canada, Ice is delivered at the doors every morning, lumps according to require- ments being deposited outside the doors, to be taken in by the " help " at her convenience. All the attendants upon the Pullman cars are coloured men, as are the waiters at the hotels. TORONTO. — LAND AND WAGES. Toronto is a progressive city. Queen-street being six miles long, Brockton, to which it leads, has within a few months been included within the municipality. Land has greatly increased in value. I called upon a friend from Shirley (Mr. French), who has been out here but three years. When he came he bought a plot for 900 dollars ; it is worth to-day 2,000. The land is so rich, being an old cedar swamp, as to let for /5 an acre as market gardens. An adjoining plot, sold for 500 dollars five years ago and which two years since realized 5,000 dollars, is valued at 7,000 dollars. This, of course, is for building. Still, produce realizes prices high enough to enable this rent to be paid. It may be noted that the owner pays all rates and taxes. I saw a plot of celery having 6,000 plants, which, when matured, will realize 40 dollars per 1,000, or say ^48 sterling — a good return for a quarter of an acre of ground. Hay is very cheap, meadow hay £2, and clover but 28s. per ton. Education is both free and compulsory throughout the Dominion, separate schools being provided for Roman Catholics. At this season eight weeks holiday are given to enable the scholars to assist their parents in harvest, &c. The collegiate buildings are very good. The streets for the most part are lighted by electricity. With regard to wages, labouring men receive 6s. 4d. per day, carpen- ters gs. 4d., bricklayers 12s. 6d. to 13s. 6d. ; but there is no present demand, and it would be unwise for men to come here for work, though in the North-West they would be welcomed, as to-day I read the following notices : — Wanted, 1,000 men for the Canadian Pacific Railway, 8s. 4d. to gs. 4d. per day, 500 wanted at same wages, further 300 required, same pay, also 500 carpenters, blacksmiths, teamsters, and masons for railway work. The roads are good, some principal streets being made with cedar blocks placed on end. The streets outside the city are, in all cases, 66 feet wide ; this mcludes the roadway and the side walk, the latter being planked. Between these there is a space of ten to twelve feet planted with trees and sown with grass, and the owner of each house has to keep this portion in order, even to the planting of the trees. In a few instances, instead of grass, the boulevards are cultivated with showy flowers. Most Canadians are Protectionists. They say, for a young country, it is impossible to succeed without an import duty. It appears that up to i87g they imposed an ad valorem duty of 17^ per cent, on all imports ; they found, however, that notwithstanding this impost the Americans were under- selling them by allowing discount to an extent largely in excess of the duty, to all manufacturers who sent their goods into Canada. So to protect their own industry they imposed a duty of 35 per cent., which effectually shut out American goods. I have mentioned many instances where I have met people from Southampton. To-day I was handed three books, each of which had been presents from myself, and bore an inscription which I had written. I proposed visiting Niagara to- morrow, and hope to start for the Far West on Saturday morning. I regret to hear that the Alberta, one of the Clyde-built steamers plying between Owen Sound and Port Arthur, has been in collision, involving a loss of several lives. My route is across Georgian Bay, skirting the extreme end of Lake Huron, passing through the wonderful Canal at Sault, St. Marie, and across Lake Superior to Port Arthur, where I entrain for Winnepeg. NIAGARA FALLS. No visit to this continent would be complete that did not embrace a visit to the Falls of Niagara, and, all the accounts that have been written notwithstand ing, I do not hesitate to say no adequate description has been or ever will be given of this wonderful scene. All I can attempt is to convey the impressions made upon my own mind, as from different points of view I contemplated the grandest falls in the world. A run across Lake of Ontario in the steamer The British Associatim Meeting, 1884. 17 Chicora, occupying three hours, landed me at Lewiston, on the U.S. side of the river, entraining for Niagara. The cost for the round trip is 2) dollars. The steamer enter.'' the Niagara river, which is not 500 yards wide, and at its entrance for the fir«l time the Stars and Stripes are seei; floating over a small fort on the side opposite where the steamer calls. The red ensign of old England is run up on a flag-staff covering only the Custom-house, and whatever commercial interests may be represented in its immediate locality. Niagara is a great fruit district, and the finest and earliest peaches grown in the open are raised there ; grapes are also largely grown. In view are the Queenston heights, upon which in 1812 a fierce battle was fought between the American and British armies. A monument of great beauty, and standing very high, marks the spot upon which Sir Isaac Brock fell early in the engagement, and where with him was buried his A.D.C., Col. John McDonald. Passengers can land at Niagara town and take the train up, but it is deemed preferable to continue in the steamer up to Lewiston. From that point the journey is most enjoyable. Running close to the river you soon begin to feel that you are approaching Niagara, the stream becomes turbulent, and at once the rapids become as a boiling cauldron, producing a heavy sea, crested with white horses, and forming an eddy which causes the water to seethe in madness of billow and foam on both sides of the river. This continues with varying effect until the Whirlpool Rapids are reached, where Capt. Webb, with foolhardiness ever to be deprecated, lost his life. This spot is about two miles below the Falls. At one point of the line the sight of the river is grand in the extreme, the rapids beneath, with walls of water crowding each other, as it were, out of position, and striving for mastery of place, with the stretch of river above and below, and the wooded shore on the opposite side, present a picture that neither pen nor pencil can pourtray. We lose sight of the river for a short time, and it opens upon us as the train glides by the Suspension Bridge, over which the trains of the Grand Trunk run, and from which an excellent view of the Whirl- pool Rapids is obtained. The Cantilever suspension bridge of the Michigan Central hne is at a short distance above. After passing these bridges, the world's great wonder suddenly bursts upon our view, and a sight presents itself that is photographed upon the memory for ever. I do not mean that a full or complete view of the Falls is thus obtained, but, considering they are witnessed unexpectedly, bursting upon the traveller without notice, they produce an effect as great as the more comprehensive view does later on, when you examine their beauties and varying forms from various points. Crossing the river just below the Falls is a third suspension bridge, and this, standing before the Falls in the picture presented to us, lends a charm and grace to the view. The proportions of the elegant structure are dwarfed by the grand background which the Falls present. After losing this charming picture the train was backed, and for a second time this novel and beauteous view was enjoyed. It may be mentioned that Niagara is reached from Toronto by rail, but many beauties are lost that are enjoyed by those who cross the lake and steam up to Lewiston, taking the train on the American side to the Niagara Falls Station, and after viewing the grand display from that side, crossing by the new suspension bridge to the Canadian shore. From this bridge a glorious sight presents itself. Below are the Rapids, culminating in the Whirlpool, which possesses features of wildest grandeur peculiar to itself. There are falls on every side ; above are those of the celebrated Horseshoe, though in course of years, since they first were named, the shape has so entirely altered as now to be a misnomer. We also see the other bridges lower down the river. The water here and for some distance above is quite placid ; in fact, the stream is sluggish, and passengers are ferried across from shore to shore as in a millpond. Above this bridge, by walking as far as Goat Island, a charming view is obtained of the rapids above the Falls, as well as the Falls themselves. From Goat Island varied views may also be enjoyed. At Prospect Point the sheet of water, ever surging over into the abyss below, is more perfect than at the Horseshoe. An object of interest to the juvenile visitors is a tank with about a score of young alligators, disporting them- selves as much as their unwieldly nature will permit. A good view of general interest may be taken opposite the Indian Rapids Store, where there is a stand to — srxr™!. jc .. i8 A Visit to Canada in connection with place the visitor on the coign of vantage. The Hurricane bridge from Goat Island enables visitors to descend to the base of the Falls. It is, however, from the Canadian side that by far the best views are obtained, and in mv judg- ment the most grand portion of the whole is that which is embraced when exactly opposite Prospect Point, the grand fall of which is separated by u small portion of land from a lesser fall. The table of water on the top, with a lovely little island standing in all its isolation in its midst, with the bridge connecting with Goat Island enhahcing the whole, and the Upper Hapids tumbling along in an eager desire to join in the depths below, form a picture that can be but feebly depicted by me. Added to this, the Horseshoe Falls are within the. range of vision at the same time, passing above the latter and close to the water's edge. A short distance leads to Cedar Island, on which are the burning »}rings and a pagoda i6o feet high, the latter ascended by a flight of 142 steps. From the top a most comprehensive view is afforded, embracing the Upper Rapids, the flat table of smooth water above, and their sudden descent into a boiling, seething cauldron below. Goat Island, the Three Sisters Islands, with the bridges on each, the falls on the American shore, and the picturesque scenery all around baffle description. At one point the rocks project for 60 feet, over- hanging the chasm below. Beneath these, properly accoutred in a suit of oilskins, and at a charge of a dollar, the more adventurous spirits pass, and are enabled to see, as it were, through the Falls. The mighty power of the water is utilised to a small extent ; a ram close to the head of the Falls has been constructed, which, driven by the water, forces it up to reservoirs on the top of the hill for the supply of Clifton and some other places, besides which a canal has been cut on the American side, which delivers its waters for the supply of power to the mills which are built on the summit of the shore. The waste from these works forms several waterfalls, pouring many millions of gallons of water over the rocks and into the river, the magnitude and beauty of which would elicit admiration were it not for the powerful competition to which they are subjected. Some idea may be formed of the immense quantity of water which falls over Niagara, when it is remembered that it is the surplus of Lakes Superior, Michigan, Huron, and Erie finding their way into Lake Ontario. Some idea also may be gleaned as to the force of the Rapids by the fact that the fall in the River Niagara from its head to a distance of only three-quarters mile, is 60 feet, and that its velocity increases from the rate of seven miles to the incredible speed of 30 miles per hour. The depth of water being estimated at 300 feet, the force of the current prevents its being accurately taken. At the Whirlpool, which poor Webb sought in his madness to breast, the rate is 27 miles an hour. Sir Charles Lyell estimates the water passing over the Horseshoe Falls at the incompre- hensible quantity of fifteen hundred million cubic feet per minute ! The same authority estimates the quantity passing over the American Falls at Prospect Point as being one hundred and fifty millions per minute. With such an approxi- mate estimate, the force of the Rapids, the turbulent seething state of the river can in some slight degree be appreciated. Niagara has obtained a bad reputation in consequence of the number of touts who assail visitors on every hand. It is, however, the fault of those who submit themselves to imposition. For myself, I can say that it is easy and practicable to spend an entire day at the Falls, and without seeing every point of interest, yet to have filled the mind to its utmost capacity with such varied and grand sights as will call up vivid recollections during the remainder of a life, without the payment of a single cent, to anyone ; whilst if the visitor prefers to drive, offers of a ride from the station to the Falls are frequently made for five cents, each, or ten cents, for three persons, or a pair- horse carriage at half a dollar per hour for a party of three. The return is made either by joining the steamer at Lewiston, or by train to Niagara town, thence per steamer across the beautiful Lake Ontario, reaching the city of Toronto at 8.30. Toronto is a place of great and growing importance, with good streets, sufficiently wide to allow two tracks for street cars, with ample room for passing vehicles two abreast on either side. One of the finest commercial buildings is that of the Dominion Bank, King-street. The British Association Meeting t 1884. LEAVING FOR THE GREAT NORTH-WEST. On Saturday, our long journey began. Starting from Toronto at 11,40, the train reached Owen Sound punctually at 3.30, where, instead of embarking on the splendid Clyde built steamer Alberta, we had to put up with the Spartan, an old fashioned wooden craft about 20 years old. As I am embarking on a lengthened railway journey, I may here describe somewhat the difference which exists between our system and that of our American coui.sns. A full size car is about 70-ft. long, including a platform at each end of about 3^-ft. The carriage upon which these long cars run has no support in the centre. There are two rows of velvet cushioned seats, one on each side. A space between these enables the conductor, and any one who pleases, to walk through the car, the entrance being by the platform at each end, and as the cars are coupled up close to each other, passengers can pass freely right through the length of the tram, and this is done constantly. The cars are about lo^-ft. high, and thoroughly ventilated, and each has a stove with hot air pipes to keep the temperature warm in winter. On the (jrand Trunk line, each car is provided with a rack at both ends, containing a sledge hammer, a hand saw, and hatchet, and also, in the opposite corners, with a fire bucket. Instead of calling the train at the stations as we do, whereby confusion occurs, just before the train approaches the station, the conductor quietly announces the name of it in the hearmg of all. The cow-catcher in front of the engine is a for- midable object, and so far from catching the cow it would mercilessly plough through it, oeing, in fact, an iron wedge shaped prow, of powerful dimensions. Not only does the conductor pass through the train, but enterprising vendors of fruit, books, papers, &c., ply their calling with satisfactory results to themselves, if not to their clients, a three cent paper being charged five. " Oranges, what are they each ? " " Well, stranger, I can trade them better for you if you take a couple. Fifteen cents for two ! " " Apples ? " " Well, five cents each, or three for ten cents." Being interested in the large number of my poorer countrymen who seek their fortunes on these distant shores, I was anxious to see what pro> vision was made for their prolonged railway journey, and I was pleased to find the sleeping cars for the emigrants afford as much comfort as can be expected. WASTE OF LAND AND TIMBER. The ride from Toronto discloses such a prodigal waste, both of timber and land, as to be heart aching to those of us who know the scarcity of these two great factors in the well-being of the old country. The fences are rudely formed by placing lengths of timber on the top of each other in zig-zags, forming a triangle on either side, and occupying about six feet in width. The economy of this seeming waste, both of land and timber, is found in the fact that neither nails nor any other fixtures are needed, but the sight which makes us sick at heart, when we remember how little either of land or timber we possess, are the hundreds of thousand of logs lying about on all sides in every stage of decay, covering land that is waiting to make a return of grain in response to the labour of the toiler who cannot, in its present condition, bring it into cultivation. Besides these there are the stumps of thousands of trees cut off some feet above the ground, and left to decay or be removed piece-meal as cultivation goes on around them. To re. move these impedimenta, sufficient wood is built round the stumps and set fire to, thus to remove more quickly these serious obstructions to the pursuit of the toiler. I have seen wood enough thus piled round a stump to supply a family for a month. All reaping and mowing that I have seen are by machine, and it need hardly be pointed out how impossible it is to use machines on ground thickly covered with stumps of trees. The crops are not equal, neither is the farming, to the old country, and in no instance have I seen any thatch on the hay rickc. On the line near Caledon Station, there is a remarkable curve called the Horse-shoe, from the shape it assumes. The conductor not only called my attention to this, — the most remarkable curve on any line in existence — but placed me on the platform in the rear to secure the best view thereof. The form is identical with that of a horse shoe, the rails gradually approaching each other, until but 150 yards separate them. The gradient is very steep just before the liTTr-irr.Lmraa 20 A Visit to Canada in connection with horse-shoe is reached. The courtesy of the conductor induced me to present him with a slight souvenir (the offer of money would have been resented), when, in the most polite manner, he handed me an elegant card bearing his name, "I. H. Kail, Conductor, T. G. and B. Railway, Toronto," with a monogram printed in colours in the comer. The freedom of passengers in the cars was exemplified by the manner in which I viewed the curve noted above ; standing on the lowest step of the platform on one foot, and swinging on by the rail, I fancy the appearance indicated the rank and position of a 'bus conductor, rather than that of a member of the British Association for the Advancement of Science. The passage through the Georgian Bay is one of singular beauty. We had to bring up about lo p.m., as the light was not distinguishable, and the dangers too great to be trifled with. We were favoured with a prudent commander in Capt. McLeod, who not only had a care for his vessel, but as his wife and only child were on board he had the best of reasons to be cautious. Any fears we enter- tained by reason of the Spartan supplying the place of the Albtrta were soon relieved, as the former proved herself a good staunch vessel, doing her work admirably. We brought up at three the following morning at Lonely Island. The rain came down very hard during the night and part of the day. We passed the most lovely assemblage of islands that can be imagined, and as the bay narrowed to about a mile at times we were encircled by charming oases of verdure dotted here and there in the bay. At 4 p.m., we called at Garden River, but throughout there were no points of interest on the shore, if we except a few Indians, with their squaws, leisi'.rely contemplating us as we steamed by. Garden River is an Indian reserve, peopled only by Indians and half breds, many of whom we saw and con- versed with, though some could not understand English. Canoes cut out of logs were about the place, and one birch bark canoe, i8-ft. feet by 4-ft., was turned up on the shore. It was beautifully made, an elegant model, and well strengthened inside with timbers, &c. ; its weight was but loo-lbs. Our object in calling at Garden River was to " wood " our craft. It is a fresh experience to produce steam from wood, but this is the only fuel used on board the Spartan. An interesting service was held in the saloon, which was well filled, the Rev. James Gundy, of Vienna, Ontario, of the Methodist Church, conducting it ; at the Kiano (which is found in the saloon of all steamers here) a young Scotch lassie, liss Mitchell, now residing at Owen Sound, presided. She also led the singing. The text was Philemon iii., 8. Paul was depicted first as the persecutor going from city to city to hail both men and women to prison, and then as the apostle whose only glory was in the Cross of Christ, and a practical application was made of the subject, the sermon concluding with an exhortation to all to strive for that glory which will be bestowed upon those who are faithful to Christ. The looth Psalm, sung to the Old Hundredth tune, and the well-known hymns " Nearer my God to Thee" and " Rock of Ages," carried the thoughts of many from Georgian Bay, with all its beauties, to the old homes across the sea. Ashore here are wild raspberries ; these, with gooseberries, currants, and grapes are growing throughout the district. Humming birds are somewhat common in Ontario, as well as the mosquito or night hawk ; this bird pursues the mosquito with such perseverance that a friend assures me he has had the stinging pest taken from his face by its relentless pursuer. EMPLOYMENTS AND SAVINGS. I have taken pains to obtain personal information from reliable sources, and for the benefit of young ladies of educational pursuits I find that those duly qualified obtain 300 dollars per annum in the Ontario district schools. The cost of board, lodging, and laundress is 175 dollars, leaving 125 dollars, which might be saved less cost of clothing. I know an instance where a young lady has, out of the income stated above, already become possessed of three-quarters of an acre of land, with a house thereon, which she lets at six dollars per month. I do not know that there is a demand for young ladies of this class, but I feel that many at home would gladly exchange their position for that of their sisters in the Dominion. I may mention that the allowance to daughters who prefer spending for themselves in dress is 80 dollars, say The British Associatiott Meeting, 1884. ax -esent him jen. in the . H. Hall, in colours ed by the est step of ppearance a member We had angers too T in Capt. only child ; we enter- were soon her work land. The passed the arrowed to otted here hout there with their an Indian r and con- out of logs vas turned ^ngthened calling at o produce 1. the Rev. at the Itch lassie, singing, utor going le apostle ation was to strive rist. The sn hymns of many Ashore rapes are )mmon in mosquito nging pest sources, hat those schools. ; dollars, where a sessed of lets at six ladies of position allowance liars, say /'17 a year ; this leaves no room for fashionable display, but enables the person to be respectably clad. An instance relating to the prospects of men is most encouraging to those who desire to improve their condition in life. One who had lived out here five years returned to England. He was a bricklayer, and had charge of works, and was offered three guineas a week at home. He came back and settled at Palmerston, having ;f 100, out of which he paid cost of himself, wife, and two young children. He arrived in July, and up to the end of November, when winter set in, he had earned suincient to carry him through the winter. He began the spring with 50 dollars over and above the balance of his own capital. He now owns six acres of land ripe for building, it would now sell for 1,000 dol- lars ; he also has a house worth 12 dollars a month, and in five years, by his own unaided industry, he has accumulated sufficient to enable him to provide for his family in the event of his death. This good man brought out his brother with him. He was a labourer, and was dependent upon loans for his passage, outfit, &c. The first year he earned ij dollars per day, second year two dollars, and to-day, after five years, he is worth 1,500 dollars after repaying loans con- tracted for his coming over. His earnings now are four dollars per day. The cost of living for a man such as I have described is about i6s. per week, includ- ing clothes, that is when he first came out and was earning the smaller wages. THE LAKES ARK LIKE OCEANS. The passage through the Georgian Bay was delightful. Although the bay divided the Dominion from the United States, no difference was visible on either shore. The entrance only to Lake Huron was skirted. The State of Michigan running down to the water's edge, the distance across Lake Superior to Port Arthur is 300 miles, the lake having a width of some 200 miles. The extent of this inland sea may be judged by the fact that its area is equal to that of Great Britain. The connection between Georgian Bay and Lake Superior is by means of a canal, constructed by the United States* Government at a cost of 3,000,000 dollars, on their own soil. By treaty, however, all Canadian vessels pass through free. The lock is by far the finest engineering work on the continent, hydraulic machinery being employed for opening and closing the locks. Passing through at night, we were able to appreciate the electric lights by which the lock is brilliantly illuminated. It took 15 minutes to fill the lock with water. The voyage through Lake Superior was most uninteresting. It rained, and blew, and knocked up a heavy sea, causing a sad diminution in our numbers at meals. No objects of interest were observed until we came near to the well-known Silver Island. As Thunder Bay was approached, the old Indian mountain f>rcsented a remarkable appearance. It is 1,500 feet above the level of the ake, and on its summit apparently rests, in calm repose, the figure of an Indian chiejf, the configuration of the human form being most perfect, the head, neck, chest, and lower extremities being accurately delineated. The Indians have a legend relating to their colossal ancestor of more interest to themselves than to English readers. It was off Silver Island that the Alberta and Osborne came into fatal collision a week ago. We are now getting more sea, and rolling more than in the Parisian. Pie Island, on the opposite shore, recalls the tale of the fit of indigestion from which the chief is said to have died in his attempt to swallow the hard-crusted pie. It may be noted that a lake of water is found on the top of Pie Island, which in shape resembles a round loaf, the top being nearly flat. HOW TIME IS RECKONED. The Spartan reached Port Arthur at 8 a.m. on Tuesday— that is to say, counting by Toronto time ; but it was only seven locally. The difficulty in com- puting time has been got over by arrangement, and throughout the continent standard time has been fixed, and instead of the minutes of difference between places being noted, at fixed points the time alters one hour. Thus noon at Halifax is the same until reaching Montreal, where one hour is subtracted, and it becomes 11 a.m. In that city this time i3 carried on to Samia, where 22 A Visit to Canada in connection with another hour is taken off, and the time becomes lo a.m. ; yet another hour is subtracted at Port Arthur, it being there g a.m. ; and at Brandon, noon at Halifax becomes eight o'clock in the morning. It is rather puzzling, but instead of altering your watch every day, which would be necessary travelling vest, you do so an hour at a time at the places named. Amongst our passengers by the Spartan were Mr. George Burden, Police Commissioner, and Messrs. Edward Meek and Glenholme Falconbridge, bar* risters, who were proceeding from Toronto to attend a court of enquiry re- lating to an election proceeding. It appears the sitting member resigned, as it is alleged, lest he should be disqualified for re-election. The only point of interest arises from the fact that the ward (if I may apply an English term to the municipality) is 900 miles in extent, and the constituency numbers only 60,000. The district being so wide, the Judge proceeds to different points, holding his court in Port Arthur and Sault St. Marie. WAGES — A NEW PLACE. Port Arthur is quite new. Mr. Stephens informs me that he knew the place in 1870, when there was no building erected there. The construction of the railway had produced its rapid growth. There are a few frame houses, but many of the shops are mere sheas, the rent being very high. For a shop only (merely a shed 14ft. by 30ft.) Afty dollars per month is paid, and for a poor shanty, let at 20 dollars, notice has been given to raise the rent to 30 dols. per month. These may be deemed normal prices, but when the rent boom was sent along to Port Arthur, the shop described above, with living rooms added, would have let for 150 dols. per month, arising from wild speculation. The town being so new, the shanty stores present a comic spectacle, Shing Lee's Chinese laundry proclaiming the advent of the sons of the Celestial Empire, whilst the baths have the front of a caravan at a fair. Good trade has been done by the dealers with the men engaged on the line, one having realised a net profit of 10,000 dols. in watches alone in six months. The watches sold here are all American, with cases weigh- ing from 40Z. to 60Z. Meat is as dear as in England, it being brought from Montreal ; and milk much dearer. There appears to be a demand for labour, as the following announcements indicate : — "Wanted, 30 men, for to-night's boat." " I guess" no notice need be put up in our docks of 300 men being needed there. I wish my poorer fellow-townsmen, hard-working honest men, had the same demand upon their labour as exists here. "Wanted, somen for C.P.R. ; work guaranteed, and men taken to their stations. Wanted, 20 men at once." The pay for the poorest class of labour is i^ dollars., say 6s. 2d. ; better labourers, i| dols., 7s. 4d. ; higher class, on piecework, 3^ dols. to 4 dols. — 14s. 6d. to i6s. 8d. per day ; men skilled in rock work, 6 dols. to 8 dols. — 25s. to 33s. 4d. per day. The cost of board and lodging is 20s. per week. Carpenters, 2i dols. to 3 dols. ; bricklayers, of which few are required, the houses being wholly wood, 4 dols. to 4J dols. — i6s. 8d. to i8s. 8d. per day. FROM PORT ARTHUR TO WINNIPEG. We run alongside the Kaministiquia river for miles, and cross it more than once. For a long distance the banks are high and beautifully wooded down to its edge ; at other places it is studded with islands ; and rapids break, in all their beauty, over the rocky bottom. The land is in its primeval condition, but the trees, alas, gaunt and bare, are scorched and burnt, eiiher by accident or design all along the line. It was up the Kaministiquia that Sir Garnet Wolseley, with Sir John McNeile, conveyed the troops during the rebellion. The district through which the C.P.R.. passes is not such as to attract the agriculturist. The cost of clearing and cultivating is beyond such a return as would be ensured by the same outlay west of Winnipeg. Neither is there any timber of large dimensions, large auantities of tall straight poles offering the only reward to the hewer of wood in this region, hundreds of thousands of which, suitable for scaffold poles, ladders, and such purposes, are perishing by the mile, There are millions of acres of graceful shrubs wasting their beauty in the desert space, and any quantity of stone laying exposed on the surface of the The Etritish Association Meeting, 1884. 23 '.r hour is noon at ;ling, but travelling gn. Police idge, bar- nquiry re- signed, as y point of jrm to the ily 60,000. lolding his t the place ion of the but many ily (merely ihanty, let th. These mg to Port lave let for » new, the reclaiming he front of th the men in watches ,ses weigh- »ught from labour, as it's boat." ided there. the same '.R. ; work Ice." The labourers, s. 6d. to ;s. 4d. per dols. to 3 ly wood, 4 lore than down to all their but the )r design 3ley, with Lttract the I return as 1 there any fering the isands of by the ity in the of the ground. The country is remarkably level, rendering the construction of the line an easy task. I only noticed one oasis, and there the appearance gave an idea of prairie grass, rich and luxuriant, awaiting the sickle of the husbandmen in vain. Several small lakes brightened up the scene as we passed along. The freedom of railway travelling cannot be conceived by those who have never been on this side. Not only has every traveller, if first-class, liberty to pass from end to end of the train, but if it stops for any purpose on the line, the passengers rush off, either for water at a neighbouring stream, or to pick the wild berries which abound on every hand. When the train is ready to start, a bell is rung, and off it goes, the passengers running along and mounting the platforms, which are very high, as best they can whilst the train goes on. I have noted the emigrant sleepers before ; the upper berths are quite as good as those in the Pullmans. Tne charge for Pullman sleeper between Port Arthur and Winnipeg (429 miles) is 3 dols. ; between Montreal and Toronto, 2 dols. ; for berth on steamer between Quebec and Montreal, i dol. ; arid from Owen Sound to Port Arthur the high rate of 10 dols. We are just passing two lakes, though small as lakes go here, which would bring a fortune to their possessor at home. I need hardly say the railway is not fenced in ; not even where it passes through streets. No chairs are used, the rails being fastened to the sleepers with spikes. I observe in a newspaper that notice of a 10 per cent, reduction has been given to men employed in the C.P. Railway. Also that the potato crop is very poor at Rat Portage. So late as July 31st a frost slightly affected the potato haulm at Savanne, and I saw its effect as we stopped at that station. Fort William will probably be the point of departure and arrival of steamers ; if so. Port Arthur will receive a check. Immediately outside Port Arthur the same wilful waste of timber and land goes on, the buildings being shanties, mostly with a few frame houses. The Mackay Mountain frowns down upon a junction with the Railway at Murillo, formerly the post of the Hudson's Bay Company. The silver birch on either side of the line being destroyed, with sticks of larch and other trees, tall and straight, produces a feeling of sadness to those who know the scarcity and value of this timber in the old country. The land from Port Arthur to Selkirk is the wooded district of the North-West, the prairie commencing west of Selkirk, and running through Winnipeg to Calgary, a distance of over 800 miles. Forests of bare poles, denuded of foliage and branches, are run through for many miles in the timber district. Blue berries, raspberries, and other wild fruits are found here in pro- fusion. Wild plums abound, of excellent quality. The soil in the timber district is not equal to that in the prairies, though here, as we pass through, a good hay crop could be gathered, at only the cost of cutting and carting. Savanne, 76 miles from Port Arthur, was marked as a dining station, but neither the provender nor the fixings were such as to tempt my appetite. Immediately after leaving the station, however, an interesting sight presented itself. On the left of the line were four, and on the right six wigwams, giving a perfect idea of Indian life. They were built by a number of small poles being fixed in the ground, and, converging to the centre, formed an apex. The poles were covered with beech bark nearly to the top, which was left open for the escape of smoke. Adjoining were the cooking places, and these of the most primitive kind, Indians and squaws, with their children and papouses, at hand. These aboriginal denizens of the forest obtain their living by hunting, fishing, and the manufacture of bark canoes. Specimens of the latter were on view, and presentee! models of exquisite design. This encampment formed a striking con- trast to the half-breed settlement previously seen. The condition of the country throughout is such as to offer no inducement to the settler until Selkirk is reached, 21 miles below Winnipeg. Near this station the everlasting woods terminate, and prairie land commences. An occasional tent about eight feet by six affords shelter to the settler in his first efforts to find a home for himself. Further on we find a shanty or two, with a cow and calf and other signs of improvement ; and yet again we pass a dwelling of some pretensions. Still, from all we learn, it is better to proceed further west, or to Southern Manitoba. The train arrived at Winnipeg at 7 a.m. on Wednesday, 24 A Visit to Canada in connection with gunctual to a minute, after a run of 430 miles, and we were introduced to Mr. >ell, a vice-president of the Historical Society, who conducted us to the rooms of the society. Winnipeg is a wonderful city in embryo. Main-street is 132 feet wide, out of which there are boarded side walks 14 to 18 feet wide. Whilst the shanty shops abound, many fine buildings are being erected, some of the blocks being on an elevation of grand proportions. The roads are in an embryo state, a tram line being the only level portion, from which the road itself falls quite two feet below the track in places. Preparations are being made to lay the street with blocks of wood, and a strange sight presents itself, the road being turned up with ploughs drawn by four horses each. Mr. McTavish, the land com- missioner of the C.P.R., has specimens of com in his office showing how prolific is the growth of grain on the Bell Farm, one stool of wheat having 108 ears of grain. There are stools of oats equally fine, and barley of average quantity. The proprietors of the Bell Farm have courteously invited the members of the British Association to visit their model homestead, and in my journey farther west I hope to be able to accept the invitation, and report upon the state of agriculture which it presents. I only wish I could retain my Railway Ticket to produce in England. It is a most remarkable document, and the one I received on board the train in exchange for that issued at the office is four inches long by ij wide, and has printed on it every station between Port Arthur and Winnipeg'; every date from January ist, 1883, to December 31st, 1886; every amount that can be paid, from 25 cents to 10 dollars, and these amounts in duplicate ; and it shows whether we are going east or west, or occupying upper or lower sleeping berths, the name of every saloon car, its number, and number of book from which it was taken, every item applicable to its holder being punched out. My ticket has 10 punched holes in it, and presents the appearance of having been shot at, or a specimen of Japanese writing, the holes being of peculiar shape. I need hardly say a railway expert can read it at a glance. The porter of the sleeping car Wabigoon, Mark Burnett, with an attention ever experienced whilst travelling in this Dominion, hearing me express a desire to retain my ticket, has punched the cover of the book, and handed it me that I might satisfy the curiosity of friends on the other side. At Ignace, 152 miles from Port Arthur, we stop to dine, though the call from the car attendant is supper ! This consisted of trout, about a dozen lbs., rumpsteak, mutton chops, ham, potatoes, peas, blueberry tart, and the berries themselves, a plate of which, or wild raspberries, is placed before each guest at every meal, whether in hotel, private house, or steamboat in this country. Be it remembered that this provision is supplied scores of miles away from any habitation other than those connected with the railway, and at a charge of 2s., and I think everyone will say it is highly creditable to the railway company. Close by the station was another Indian Encampment of nine tepies, as I find the wigwams are called. Although I have not seen a head of game, and not half-a-dozen birds to-day, there are parts where the most wonderful sport may be obtained according to the following, which I extracted from a Winnipeg paper : — sportsman's paradise.— long lake alive with game. Ed. McKeown was out on a shooting expedition at Long Lake yesterday, and writes the Timti the following account of his success with the gun :— " Now that the snooting season is about to begin it will be interesting to the sportsmen of Winnipeg to learn that there is great promise of abundance of sport this year. I was at Long Lake to-day, and in a very short time bagged 72 plover and 400 snipe, 62 of which were English snipe. I never saw game in such abundance ; Long Lake is literally alive with waterfowl. As the place is within easy distance of this city, and hotel accommodation of the best quality in the neighbourhood, Long Lake may be truly considered the Winnipeg sportsman's Paradise. Boats, guns, and fishing tackle can be hired on very reasonable terms. Every one who loves a good day's sport should visit Long Lake." Long Lake is about an hour and a half s ride by train from Winnipeg. Mr. McKeown also says that a person named Moore slugged 700 birds yesterday, and shipped them to Toronto. At Wabigoon station there is a grand lake, beautfiully wooded down to the water's edge, with charming islands nicely timbered dotted upon its glassy surface. Had the islands been planted by an experienced hand the shrubbery trees could not have been in more symmetrical arrangement. One really grand island forms a lovely background as we pass along. Only fancy this lake, and miles of sur> rounding land, with tens of thousands of larch, and shrubs, and various trees, The British Association Meetings 1884. n id to Mr. : rooms of ; 132 feet /hiist the he blocks ryo state, alls quite the street ig turned and com- w prolific >8 ears of quantity. ;rs of the ;y farther e state of Ticket to [ received iS long by Vinnipeg ; ount that te; and it r sleeping om which My ticket 1 shot at, I need 3 sleeping travelling punched riosity of fe stop to of trout, (lueberry is placed .mboat in of miles and at a railway le tepies, lame, and ful sport "innjpeg Iwrites the season is te is great short time \a in such listance of (e may be lie can be /isit Long iMcKeown Toronto. to the surface. bs could M forms of sur- 18 trees. can be obtained by any one Scot-free upon undertaking to cultivate a certain portion of the land year by year ! A settler's experiences. One of the earliest pioneers of the district was a young fanner, who migrated from Ontario three years ago, and settled in Belleview, Manitoba, about two miles from' Pipestone Creek, taking up a homestead and pre-emption of 320 acres, being half a section. The land was in a primeval state, and was not then surveyed, and the settler squatted upon it. The total capital he possessed was £yi, the outlay necessary being for a tent, cooking utensils, yoke of oxen, &c. The first year he broke up eight acres, and at the commencement of winter sold his oxen. Before doing so he put up enough hay for the supply of his team for the incoming spring. The hay was cut from the prairie, upon which splendid grass may be obtained to any extent, yielding from three to five tons per acre, and this without any cost beyond the labour of securing it, which averages about 2§ dollars per ton. During the winter he engaged himself for five months in lumbering, bemg employed in hewing railway ties (or, in English, sleepers), earning 50 dollars per month, in addition to board and lodging. These wages are only paid to a skilled workman, an ordinary axeman receiving 30 dollars with board, &c. In May of the second year he returned to his farm, he having in the October preceding had his land entered in the Government Land Office, giving him a legal title to it. He let the eight acres already broken at four dollars per acre, and set to work and broke up 40 more, having purchased a pair of mules for 380 dollars, which were sold at the end of the season for a little less. Having built a frame house costing 100 dollars, the second winter he went to the bush, and contracted to take out 30,000 railway sleepers, employing labour for that purpose. This occupied five months, realising a profit of 500 dollars. He returned to his farm in May, and let the 48 acres at four dollars an acre, employing himself in break- ing up an additional 20 acres, and, with a relative, purchased a thrashing machine for 640 dollars. During the autumn he thrashed for hire, earning 450 dollars. He attended to his own ploughing before he began thrashing. Last winter he remained at home, drawing materials for farm buildings and fencing. This season the whole land under cultivation has been let upon the share system, the owner receiving one-third of the value of the crops, the other party two-thirds, the latter finding labour, seed, &c. The whole taxes and rates upon the 320 acres do not exceed /4 per annum. It will thus be seen that in a little over three years a capital of /50 has increased to /270, in addition to the ownership of 320 acres of most fertile land, 68 of which are under profitable cultivation, and having a moderate house thereon, a condition of things impossible in the old country. The name and address of this fortunate individual is at the disposal of our readers. Taking away the exceptional advantages derived from the contract in getting out the railway sleepers, any hard-working, persevering man possessed of a determination to succeed may, I am assured, attain to results similar to those related above, with the exception named. The cost of living was a^ dollars per week. Prime Chicago pork can be bought at Winnipeg at 17 dollars per barrel of 2oolbs., or a trifle over 4d. per lb., in proper order. BUSINESS experiences. — COST OF LIVING, &C. A fair average of success in business I give from the experience of a friend I have made in Glencoe, Middlesex, Ontario. He has been out twenty-seven years. Glencoe has a population of 1,500. His business is that of a general storekeeper, selling groceries, drapery, millinery, boots and shoes, clothing, ready-made and to measure, employing upwards of 20 assistants. The stores, dwelling, &c., occupy- ing three-quarters of^ an acre, are his own property. This result has been attained notwithstanding the proprietor had to make, by his own industry, the whole of his capital, and that owing to a failure of health he has had to change his residence three times. So favourable were the circumstances of the gentle- man I have described, that he has been followed to the Dominion by his parents and the whole of his family. In the neighbourhood of Glencoe the prices of im J86 A Visit to Canada in connection with provisions are :'-Beefsteaks, sd. to 6d. ; ordinary beef, 4d. ; mutton and i>ork the same ; flour, 14s. 6d. per loolbs. ; butter, jd. ; cheese, 6d. (there being a cheese factory in the place) ; eggs, yd. per dozen. Clothing would be dearer than in the old country by the duty (say 30 per cent.) ; rent for a labouring man, £1 per month, for a comfortable cottage ; wages from 5s. to 6s. per day, the whole year round, for ordinary day labourers, and usually there is a demand for labourers at this pa^. At harvest from 6s. to 8s. per day is paid, with board and lodging for about SIX weeks. In this locality there is employment all the year round, the men being engaged in the winter cutting cord wood and such like work. Board and lodging, of a good class, for working men, may be obtained at 12s. 6d. per week. The average holding of a farm here is 100 acres, the occupier being almost invariably the owner. The purchase of these farms, in many instances, has been made by young men coming from the old country without capital, they engaging themselves to work at £3 per month, with board, &c. Out of their earnings sufficient was saved in a few years to enable them to make a payment on account of the purchase of 50 or 100 acres. In winter they would clear a few acres, and in due time build a house, &c., and commence farming their own land, the only outlay at first being the purchase of an axe. With the incentive of having their land free, but a few more years were needed to enable them to secure the object of their ambition. Most of the land in this neighbourhood has been cleared, and to attain the above results it will be necessary to proceed farther west. Such farms as above described can now be purchased with frame dwelling-house and outbuildings well fenced in, and in a good state of cultivation, with stumps of trees removed, for £8 per acre. This being the most southerly district of Ontario, many kinds of fruit — such as peaches, and others of a more delicate nature — are grown ; whilst large quantities of apples are sent to England and the United States. Apple orchards of 75 and 100 acres in extent are not uncommon. The maize crop is equal in quality to that of the United States, whilst wheat is the {>rincipal product of the district. An agriculturist in Manitoba should be on his ocation by the ist of May, and if possessed of /loo he would be able to build a house, buy a yoke of oxen, with necessary tools and seeds to carry him over till his crops were realised. When he had done sufficient breaking up and cultivation for himself, 25 acres first year, he could hire out, and with his yoke earn from 4^ dollars to 5 dollars per day. The second year he would possess the crop off the 25 acres, and he would be able to cultivate this and break another similar area of land. If the emigrant had children capable of doing farm work, the result would be much greater. The above would not apply to the large numbers whose onl^ inheritance is their brawny arms and determined will. These arriving at the prairie land would without difficulty at once find employment at from 20 dollars to 35 dollars per month, with everything found, the only outlay being for clothing, which costs more than at home. As there are no inducements in a new country to spend money needlessly, a prudent man would be able, by the payment of 10 dollars, to take up his homestead of 160 acres, and, in compliance with the law, having sufficient funds to pay for the breaking up of five acres of land, he would thereby secure his homestead, and doubtless at the end of the year find himself in such a position as he could never have attained in the old country. Some of the most fertile districts are in Southern Manitoba — as Manitou, Nelson, and Crystal City. The former has railway communication ; Nelson is six miles, and Crystal City 12 miles from the rail. The growing export of grain frcvU ihis neighbourhood is indicated by the erection of elevators. The land here is 'nr-^tly imp oved, and is sold at five dollars per acre to ten dollars, according to !■ i •'•! 'y ur.^ outlay upon it. Unimproved land fetches two dollars to three dollars an a Tr, Brandon, to the west of Winnipeg, is highly spoken of, where free ^anf!" of most fertile land may be obtained, but at some little distance from the rity. Prices of beef in Winnipeg and the western cities are : — Prime joints, choice.';'! cits, '/d. ; poorer joints, from 3d. to 6d. per lb. ; the same for mutton. Tn rli"- . when a supply can be taken in sufficient to last in a frozen state till spring, beef, per hind quarter, is 5d. per lb. ; fore quarter, 3^d. to 4d. per lb., of excellent quality. Mutton, per carcase, 4d. per lb. ; a whole hog, sd. per lb., of fix score. Tea and sugar are rather higher than in England. Clothing for work^ The British Associatiott Meeting, 1884. 37 ing men, of good Canadian manufacture, is quite as cheap as in England, the staple being of superior quality. Poultry, yd. per lb. ; eggs at this season, 8d. per dozen ; butter, 8d. to icxi. per lb. ; milk, as in England. Provisions are largely sent from Ontario to the west, and it only requires an influx of emigrants to pro* duce from the fertile soil of Manitoba, not only sufficient for the requirements of that province, but for the supply of other markets. Bishop Sullivan, of Algoma, has one of the largest dioceses of any of his episcopal brethren, ranging, as it does, over a district of goo miles. His Grace is, I suppose, the only bishop who owns a steam yacht, and it was a source of regret that my letter of introduction to him was unavailing, as I should have enjoyed a cruise upon the great lake where the Zenobia was lying as we passed up in the Spartan. Lake Superior at times is full of danger, Capt. McLeod having on one occasion been compelled to cast overboard 57 head of cattle, and the whole of his cargo, to save his vessel, the firemen being up to their waists in water, and but six inches of space was left between the water and the fires. The Frances Smith was the steamer thus imperilled. The quantity of wood taken in by the Spartan was 46 cords, each measuring 4ft. by 4ft., and 8ft. long, the consumption bemg i^ cord per half-hour. The City of Winnipeg extends seven miles from north to south, and four miles from east to west ; this is the city-proper. The suburban district around, already surveyed, and to some slight extent built upon, extends a mile on either side, and the principal public buildings comprise the Court-house, the Lieut.- Govemor's residence, Parliament-buildings, and the City Hall (in course of con- struction). Of places of worship St. John's Cathedral and Trinity Episcopal Church are the finest. There are the Knox's Presbyterian, Gracechurch (Metho- dist), St. Mary's (Catholic), and also Congregational, Bsmtist, and other churches. The General Hospital is a fine commodious building. The educational establish- ments are of the highest order. St. John's Episcopal College, Manitoba Presbyterian College, and St. Boniface Catholic College, are all three affiliated to the University of Manitoba, exhibiting thereby a union of the sects unknown elsewhere, and which, it is satisfactory to know, works well in the interests of all concerned. General education throughout the Dominion is both free and compulsory. The nature of the buildings is such as to demand an efficient means of coping with fire, and this is provided for by an excellent fire brigade. There are also electric alarums to be used in case of fire, whereby the fire brigade obtain instant notice of any alarm. The earlier buildings are giving place to large struc- tures of the most modern kind ; notably, is that of the Hudson Bay Store, which stands unrivalled in the Dominion, and can only be equalled by the finest buildings in Chicago. A block of fine commercial stores, erected by ex-Governor Cauchon, in Main Street, affords a representation of the style of buildings now taking the place of those erected in the earlier days of the city. The Bank of Montreal, the Ontario Bank, the Merchants' Bank, the Imperial Bank, the Bank of Ottawa, the Bank of Nova Scotia, and the Union Bank of Lower Canada, are well-represented in edifices of solid proportions. There are also numerous private banks, whilst the insurance companies of Great Britain, America, and of the Dominion abound. When it is considered how liable a city so largely built of wood is to the ravages of fire it will be understood how necessary it is that the fire brigade should be thoroughly efficient, and, certainly, under the able superintendence of Mr. McRobie, no city can be more thoroughly equipped than is that of Winnipeg. By the courtesy of the chief I was enabled to witness the speedy manner in which the engines were horsed and manned. Upon the alarm being given, those firemen who were aloft came sliding down polished steel bars from their beds to the engine station below, and in so doing, clothed themselves with boots and pants ; simultaneously the horses rushed from their stables and placed them- selves between the shafts of the engines, the harness, which was suspended in the air, closing upon them ; attendants made the necessary fixings, and in ten seconds men, horses, and engines were ready to speed away to whatever spot they might be needed. Upon a given signal, the horses came out of the shafts and went backwards into the stables, ready for any further call that might be made upon them. This movement was twice made for my gratification. Mr. McRobie said in case of a real alarm it could be done in eight seconds, tb« , a8 A Visit to Canada in connection with horses knowing full well it was only a false alarm, and therefore not being so smart as if real business was meant. There are two other fire halls in the city, and a chemical is used with great success, in addition to the steam and other engines. THE VALUE OF LAND. The fine block of buildings mentioned as having been erected by ex-Governor Cauchon, cost 250,000 dollars. It is now for sale, and will not probably realize more than 150,000 dollars. The future rental is estimated at 75,000 dollars, but such is the depreciation, owing to the " boom " which affected the city about two years ago, that the comer store in this block, which then let at 300 dollars per month, only now realizes 50 dollars ; land that then sold for 2,000 dollars per acre to-day fetches but 250 dollars ; and another lot has depreciated from 4,000 dollars to 400 dollars. One of the finest blocks is that occupied by MacArthur, Boyle, and Campbell, the latter being a son of the Duke of Argyll. The Loan Company are erectmg new offices. The land, with a frontage of loo-ft., cost 126,000 dols. These and many other figures appear incredible. By the courtesy of Mr. Alder- man Wishart, I was enabled to survey a good part of the city, and also drive to Silver Heights. Beyond this resort is the residence of the Hon. Donald A. Smith, which was occupied by the Marquis of Lome when visiting Winnipeg ; further on is Sturgeon Creek This district is admirably adapted to settlers, as a ready market is at hand by its close proximity to the city. Land, good fertile rolling prairie, can be bought for from eight to ten dollars per acre, capable of producing 25 to 40 bushels of wheat to the acre, without manure for eight to ten years. Three to five miles further out it can be pur- chased for from five to eight dollars per acre, and twenty miles from the city at an even lower rate, and inferior land still less. The road for miles in this direction is laid out 132 feet wide. On the prairie we drQve past an Indian wigwam. The Indians possessed a red river cart of their own manufacture, the peculiarity of which was that it was made of wood, no metal whatever being used. The lands above-named have the Sturgeon Creek passing through, as it debouches into the Assiniboine river. Improved lands can be purchased in the locality for from xo to 25 dollars per acre. The roads in Winnipeg are in a terrible state. Beyond throwing the dirt out of the ditches on either side on to the middle of the street, nothing has been done. In some places the side walks are fully 4-ft., above the road, notably in Hargraves Street, where I met a family from Ventnor, some of whom came over in the Parisian with me. I had an introduction to the Mayor (Mr. Logan), and to many leading citizens, including some members of Parliament, from all of whom I received the most cordial welcome, and had time permitted, I could have partaken of the hospitality of any of their number. WHO ARE WANTED. The shoeblacks and newsboys drive thriving trades. The former charge 10 cents. (5d.) for cleaning a pair of boots, and though there are about 75 of them, competition never lowers tne prices ; they can earn from i^ dollars (6s. 3d.) to two, and even three dollars per day. Of the newsboys the lowest earn i j| dollars, whilst most make from two to three dollars per day. There is one named W. Thurman, known as the enterprising newsboy, who has had a wonderful career. He makes from seven to eight dollars per day. The profit is very great . They buy at five cents, and sell at ten, and when there is a dull sale for evening papers, this youth, who is but 17 years old, buys the papers at one cent, and sells them at full price. He possesses houses and property. On Saturday his profit is 10 dollars. He has four houses producing 125 dollars per month, and two vacant lots, worth only 1,000 dollars to-day, " because the bottom is out of the boom, you know, sir." He breaks off " Excuse me, sir," and darts across the street as he sees a regular customer driving along. I am glad to know he purposes going to College to perfect his education, and I shall be mistaken if he does not make a nadte for himself in the city. "All on board," is the intimation you receive when the 'bus stands ready at the hotel to take you to the station. The same signal is given at the railway, and The British Association Meetings 1884. «9 when passengers alight by the way, picking wild berries, it is amusing to witness the scare occasioned amongst them when some playful passenger in an official voice utters these mystic words. I do not think there is sufficient demand for labour to induce workmen to come out ; certainly none but carpenters, masons, or bricklayers should leave the old country at present, and there is not much room for them just now. A PIONEER IN RAILWAY LOCOMOTION. I met a celebrated character, Mr. Joseph Whitehead, whose life awd history are contemporaneous with the birth and development of the railway system. Bom in the county of Durham, he made the acquaintance of George Stephenson in early life, and actually lired the first locomotive which ever ran. It was called the Locomotion, and was driven by Jemmy Stephenson, a cousin of the inventor. This event, which marks a remarkable page in the commercial history of our country and the world, took place on th*. 27th of September, 1825, the Locomo- tion running between Sheldon and Stockton. This engine was the precursor of the Rocket, of early railway fame. Mr. Whitehead came to Canada in 1849, and it need hardly be said he is the father of the railway system in the Dominion. He enjoys the respect of the people amongst who he has so long resided, and upon whom he has conferred the benefits of railway travelling. I ready at tray, and RATES OF WAGES. The highest class watchmakers receive 27 dollars per week ; second hands, 15 to 20 dollars ; working jewellers, 22 dollars ; improvers in the trade, 12 dollars ; first assistants, 60 to 80 dollars per month ; second, 5^ dollars per week ; cost of living, latter class, 5^ to 6 dollars per week. It may be noted that coal booms up to 15 dollars per ton in winter. The charge to clean a watch without guarantee is two dollars, and with guarantee from 3 to 3^ dollars. Many successful persons in every grade of life are those who have come from Ontario. Prosperity is the greater in the more westerly parts. Temperance prevails to a large extent, and the general feeling is that this has much to do with the success of the people, their temperate habits inducing them to save their surplus earnings. Domestic servants earn very large wages, as much as 20 dollars per month, with certain advan- tages ; but somehow, what with increased cost of dress and other matters, I doubt whether they save much money. The wages I have mentioned are for hotels and the like, but the lowest rate for girls of 18 is 10 dollars, and the average 15 dollars, without any expense for laundress. I left Winnipeg on Friday, 8th of August, for Minnedosa, travelling per C. P. R. to Portage la Prairie, thence per Manitoba and N. W. R. The president of the latter line is Andrew Allan, Esq., of the Allan Line ; the object of the track is to open up the fertile district of Minnedosa. The land is prairie throughout, producing hay, from two to three tons per acre from the natural grass, without any manure or cost, beyond making and carting. The former line runs through moderate prairie, producing about two tons of hay per acre. Near Redbum there are small lakes, tents, and shanties indicating the settlement of the land. On the left hand there is fine timber about a mile and a half from the railway ; and on the other side small trees. Here I was told of a reckless state of things that arose out of the boom. At Edmonton certain property sold for 400,000 dollars, which to-day may be purchased for 600 dollars, Edmonton being merely a paper town. At Poplar Point there is plenty of wood on one side, but on th j other it is very far distant. Here was good wheat and other cereals, and at High Cliff herds of cows and oxen, some 100 in number. In breaking the prairie the sod is merely turned up very thinly, and left till the following spring, when it is back set and made ready for seeding. Near here were five wigwams, with Indians and their families, and Red River carts. The cultivation and crops were good up to Portage, after which there were excellent crops of com. I had the pleasure of an introduction to the Bishop of Rupert's land, who in- formed me that he had been out 19 years. During the earlier period his diocese was of immense extent. It is now formed into six, with a corresponding number JO A Visit to Canada in connection with of bishops. His lordship, who was formerly vicar of Maddingley, resides in the tame place, Bishop's Court, Winnipeg, the surrounding circumstances having undergone a marvellous change. For years the Bishop was 400 miles from baker, butcher, tailor, or any habitation, and visiting his people by means of dog teams, of which he possessed two, ^nd in canoes. His lordship related many interesting incidents in his early colonial history, his confirmations at remote points being at> tended by the Indians. The line crosses the White Mud river three times. The hay is better, estimated at three tons per acre. We had to bring up the train, and, as it was, nearly ran over a cow. The neighbourhood of Gladstone is very similar to the land we passed through, except that there are gravel ridges, and the land being shrubby is harder to break. The Government are dredging the river with a view to form a line of steam navigation opening up lakes Manitoba and Winnipegosis. There are salt marshes in this locality. Prairie hens and wild duck abound ; the latter on the many small lakes which are found at different places. We travelled through the Beautiful plains, though they possess no attraction to the farmer ; they run up to the foot of the Riding Mountains, the latter being well wooded. The finest sample of wheat grown last year was at the base of these mountains. Mani- toba hard wheat possesses the reputation of being the finest quality to be found in the English market. About here are plenty of oxen ripe for the butcher, that have eaten nothing but the wild grass of the prairie. This district is SUITABLE FOR MIXED FARMING, Arable and grazing. At Minnedosa I find a quarter section, 160 acres, can be brought into profitable cultivation by a hardworking man who has £y5 capital, and the produce would be 25 to 30 bushels per acre. The embryo city of Minnedosa is situated in a lovely spot. The scattered buildings are in a hollow ; above there is a plateau, which lies beneath a moun- tainous range, the ascent to the latter being by a zigzag road of excellent quality. In the Riding Mountains, deer, hares, and other game are to be found. Mr. Jermyn kindly drove me through his wheat field, and for many miles into the coun- try in a southerly direction. We passed many small lakes, upon which were plenty of duck, snipe, and other birds, and twice the close proximity of skunks were made known oy their odour. Mr. Jermyn's wheat field comprises 320 acres, and was purchased by him at one dollar per acre, and as it was what is under- stood as script land, the actual payment was much less. In one season he broke up and brought the whole under cultivation. The estimated yield is from 25 to 40 bushels per acre, and taking the lower figure, here is one field of wheat pro- ducing upwards of 8,000 bushels, of the value of about £1,200, and when cost of land is considered, the rent upon which is infinitessimal, the profit will be most handsome. I may mention that the capital with which Mr. Jermyn commenced was not more than sufficient to have stocked a farm of 50 acres in England, and here he is, with land his own, obtaining a competency upon his own property. There is a future for this district, many parts being calculated for mixed farming, the rear- ing of cattle being more profitable than growing wheat. The homestead of a farmer was pointed out, the owner of which pre-empted his land but three years ago, 9nd he has a good house, cattle, and everything denoting prosperity. He had no practical knowledge of agriculture, having been a tin smith. There are in this little town an excellent public school, a court house, a newspaper, a mayor, and all the makings of a prosperous city. There are no less than three vendors of agricultural implements, all, I am happy to say, doing a thriving business. Reverting to Mr. Jermyn's farm, the cost of breaking, cultivating, and harvesting, including fencing, is, I find, 12 dols. per acre. This includes every expense, even of putting the grain into bags. This amounts to about ^770, leaving a large margin of profit, which, in future years, would be greatly in- creased, as there would be no outlay for breaking or fencing the land. Provisions for the winter are bought early in November, and they will keep frozen till April ; the prices at that season are, for pork, 3d. per pound ; beef, 4(3.; potatoes, is. 3d. per Dushel ; flour, i6s. 6d. per barrel. So quicKly does an improved farm increase [es in th« :es having 'om baker, og teams, interesting i being at- nes. The the train, we passed r is harder I a line of re are salt ;er on the irough the ey run up The finest is. Mani- o be found tcher, that 'es, can be 75 capital, i scattered th a moun- pt quality. una. Mr. J the coun- hich were of skunks 320 acres, is under- he broke om 25 to heat pro- n cost of 1 be most was not here he There is the rear- bead of a ^ree years ;rity. He ^ere are in a mayor, le vendors The Briiish Association Meeting, 1884. 3X iness. |ting, and s every jut /770, greatly m- 'rovisions April ; Bs, IS. 3d. increase in value that Mr. Jermyn's land is now worth 30 dols. per acre. There is within a few miles a colony of young English farmers, about 20 " old " bachelors, most of whom are members of what we term county families. They, as do all others, speak highly of the enjoyment of the winter season. I have heard no one com- plain of any inconvenience from its severity. With regard to the application of manure to the land, even that made upon the farm is never placed ujpon it. In the log stables where the horses and cattle are sheltered, when the manure accumulates to such an extent as to render the plact unfit for the cattle, instead of removing the manure and using it as we should at home, the stables are burnt, and others erected at a distance for use. A GARDEN OF EDEN. The scenery along the Little Saskatchewan river is very beautiful — banked on one side with hills richly clad with fine timber, and on the other with undulating land, with lakes and shrubs. The prairie flowers, of which there are 268 varieties, present a gorgeous appearance. Wild roses fill the air with fragrance, and wild fruits abound ; the raspberry, precisely similar to our cultivated sorts, whilst black currants of excellent quality are literally picked by the bushel. I met to-day with Mr. D. Spear, who last year threshed Mr. Eraser's wheat. It was a virgm crop, and the produce of ii acres yielded over 555 bushels— a fraction over 50 bushels per acre. Mr. Eraser's farm is Township 18, section 6, range 17, at Clan-William, Minnedosa, Mr. Spear estimates his own yield from 15 acres at not less than 40 bushels per acre. Hitherto I have seen no district that com- mends itself so highly to my mind as that of Minnedosa. Water and timber are abundant, stone is on the land, and whether for wheat or stock, or probably what is far better, for mixed farming, it stands unsurpassed. The section adjoin- ing Mr. Jermyn's is that of Mr. Floyd, a Southampton man. Butter sells here for 15 cents per pound, and eggs, which are scarce just now, 20 cents per dozen. A pair of horses will plough two acres per day in stubble or summer fallow. I may remark that some farmers fallow their land every fourth year, i J acre is a fair day's ploughing when breaking the land ; a four-horse plough will get through five acres daily, and a three-horse binder will cut and bind 15 acres of com in a day. A thrasher worked by 10 horses will thrash 700 to 800 bushels per diem ; a steam thrasher, according to power, will turn out from 1,400 to 2.000 bushels, and even more. Oats average from 35 to 40 bushels per acre, and an instance is known of nearly 80 bushels being harvested. I believe, but am not certain, that this wonderful crop is attributed to Mr. Wm. McTavish. Although I have seen some very good oats, the crop generally is not expected to be up to the average, the season having been too dry. There is no (question as to the superiority of the land in this district over that in Ontario. This is proved by the large number of farmers who have migrated from that province hither. It is lamentable to see tons upon tons of straw rotting for lack of use for it. Practical men say if they were to manure the land the straw would become too rank and heavy. One of the best houses being built in Minnedosa is of elegant elevation. Gothic style, it has two rooms below, 12ft. by i8ft. and 30ft. by 20ft. ; three bedrooms, 12ft. by 17ft. ; two halls, pantry, cellar, kitchens, and closets. The total cost, exclusive of land, is /400. This kind of house is wholly of wood; it is double planked with felt paper between. The latter, being a non-conductor, keeps the house warm and' dry. FORTY MILES ACROSS THE PRAIRIE. To diversify the mode of travelling, and enable me to obtain a better view of the country than the railway affords, I decided to drive from Minnedosa across the prairie to Brandon, a distance of 40 miles. I was fortunate in having for my companion Mr. H. Bruce Gordon, a gentleman connected with the wholesale trade of Manitoba, hailing from Winnipeg, and who is thoroughly conversant with the province, and without such a guide it would have been unwise to have attempted such a journey, as we had nothing but the Indian trail for a road, and I neea hardly say we were far removed from the land of mile-stones, finger-posts, or other means of aid in case of doubt. Mr. Gordon's knowledge served us well, for we went straight through to Rapid City, and thence to our destination without 3« A Visit to Canada in connection with a single fault. We were provided with a relay of horses and rigs, as our vehicles were called. Occasionally we crossed,, and at other times ran for miles along- side, the Hudson Bay trail, calling to mind the endless convoys of Red River carts that but a few years since were the only means whereby the costly mer- chandise of the country was transferred from the hunting groumds in the far off north-west to the centres whence it was distributed throughout the world. For nearly an hour after our start there were no signs of cultivation ; there were, however, as throughout our journey, numerous lakes teeming with wild ducks, though so tame that they took no notice of us, the parent birds, in many cases, sailing quietly over the water proud of their progeny, whose early efforts at swimming appeared to be quite satisfactory. The crops, with but rare exceptions, gave promise of an abundant harvest. We overhauled a young farmer, son of Mr. Matthew Smith, Section ig, town 14, range 18, who was back-setting with a double plough drawn by a yoke of oxen, with a pair of horses for leaders. He ploughed 10 inches deep, and turned up two furrows each 13 inches in width. This newly worked land was of such richness as to betoken the wealth of product which had lain dormant since the Flood. Young Smith informed us that in 1882 his father garnered 50 bushels of wheat per acre off eight acres of land that had lain fallow a year. Here, as elsewhere, straw was rotting by tons. When within seven miles of Rapid City, a view presented itself of singular beauty. On our left was brush and small timber, on our ri^ht a mountainous range running down to the valley of the Little Saskatchewan river, a lovely vale clad in the verdure of the richest grass, A peep between the mountains revealed the embryo City ; from hence the land becomes a rolling prairie. Some vacant houses indicate that, notwith- standing their sparseness, too many have been erected for present wants. To give an idea of the value of improved farms in this district, I may mention that Mr. A. S. Stewart offered me a quarter section. 160 acres, 40 of which are under cultivation, with a house and implements, for 800 dollars (say /160), the land being fenced ; the crop, which is estimated to yield 30 bushels to the acre, not included. Another lot, 320, half section, go acres ready to crop, with stabling for 60 head of cattle, for 1,100 dollars — say ;^220. In either case on payment of deposit time would be given for payment of balance by instalments. Within a range of about 70 miles from Rapid City some of the best land is to be found. In this, as in all cities, a good school house is one of the first buildings erected, as are also grist and sawing mills. A common animal in this country is the gopher, or ground squirrel. One variety is known as the earred gopher, from two E ouches which it has on its face, in which it conveys the earth it, like our moles, urrows up. They are very tame, and sit up on their hind legs as we pass, like little statuettes. From Rapid City we enter upon the prairie, a description of which as we pass through many miles of it is easily given — a boundless expanse of grass on every hand, stretching forth to the horizon, with a shanty or two at long intervals. Brandon has some pretensions to be a city ; but 3J years old, it has a fixed popu- lation of nearly 4,000, with a certainty of rapid progress, three grain elevators attesting to development of the city as a great grain centre. To the south is some very fertile land, Mr. J. H. Hartne, who has been here but three years, and was a merchant before, lives about 30 miles distant, having taken the Hudson's Bay first prize medal for his wheat, which realised i| dollars per bushel last year, and his estimate of yield for the present season is so sanguine that I hesitate to give the figures. The average yield of wheat last year is stated to have been 30 bushels in this district. It is surprising how in many things a young country starts away from an old one. For instance, in regard to the use of the telephone. In this hotel I am in direct communication with half-a-dozen livery stables, five other hotels, two butchers, the fishmonger, two banks, the railways, two lumber stores, the court- house, the private residences of the judge, the mayor, and agent of the C.P.R., four doctors, and all the principal stores in the city. There is a frame house, about 12 feet by 15, whose business includes that of justice of peace, customs Tfu British Association Meeting, 1884. n ir vehicles liles along- Red River :o8tly mer- the far off orld. For there were, jvild ducl(s. nany cases, ' efforts at exceptions, mer, son of tting with a aders. He Bs in width, of product that in 1882 nd that had /hen within ty. On our lining down 3 verdure of n hence the it, notwith- wants. To nention that :h are under 5o), the land he acre, not stabling for payment of . Within a to be found. ngs erected, mtry is the T, from two our moles, /e pass, like vhich as we of grass on ig intervals, ixed popu- in elevators uth is some merchant first prize lis estimate the figures. ,els in this 'om an old el I am in lotels, two the court- Ihe C.P.R., me house, ;e, customs broker, marriage licenses, pumps, windmills, agencies for the Dominion line of steamers, offers to convey persons from Brandon to Eurone at certain rates, &c., &c., &c. This is the central telephone office, and has no less than 33 wires run- ning through it, each of which carries four others. The fire brigade of this city consists of an engineer (1,000 dollars), chief (200 dollars), second (100 dollars per annum), with a force of 24 men all told, the fire- men receiving 25 dollars. The most noteworthy official is Jack, the fireman's dog, who lives at the fire hall, and rouses the whole neighbourhood and rushes away to the residence of the engineer upon an alarm of fire being given. Th«*re have been 11 calls this year. I have met with no cheese industry about here. At Toronto this produce of the dairy is largely manufactured in the county of Oxford. There are 50 factories; the present price is 9 cents (4id.) per lb. The whole is shipped to Liverpool. This is considered a remunerative price. With cheese .so cheap it is singular that milk by the quart is sold for 10 cents, or sd. At Brandon the Fire Hall is a square tower about 80 feet high, and being built on elevated ground, commands a view of the whole city. CHURCH WOHK AND LIFE. The Episcopal Church has some slight pretensions to an ecclesiastical style of architecture ; the Presbyterian and Methodist churches are wholly devoid of design, but are plain square buildings, The attendance at the communion service at the Episcopal was limited to 11 persons, the sterner sex being represented by one individual. At the Presbyterian there was a good number, the Rev. James Douglass preaching an excellent high-toned sermon from ch. 5 v. 15 of Nehemiah, " So did not I, for fear of the Lord." The Methodist is much larger than the Presbyterian church, with a corresponding increase in the number of worshippers. In the evening the Rev. Mr. Hannah, one of the youngest of ministers, preached a practical sermon from John, ch. 14 v. 12. The observance of the Sabbath is very marked throughout the Dominion, Sunday closing of publichouses doubtless tending greatly to the quiet and peace that dwells around. In each township or city a section of land is reserved for school purposes. This will in many cases glace a good income to the credit of the school authorities ; for instance, in Irandon the section would realise to-day not less than 6,000 dollars. WHAT SETTLERS CAN DO. The porter at the Grand View Hotel, where I am stopping, affords a striking proof of what a young man can do in this country. Coming here with but a few cents in his pocket last December, he found employment as soon as he was able to undertake it, at 15 dols. per month for the winter, and 20 dols. in the summer, with board and lodging and everything found, besides items amounting to two or three dols. per month. He has, within the past six weeks, taken a section of 160 acres, for which he paid ten dollars, in the Turtle Mountain district, 75 miles from here, which is considered most fertile. There are four other English settlers on adjoining sections who came out with him. Within six months of date of entry he will have to enter upon and occupy his land. After he has compiled with the terms upon which it is allotted, he will obtain work and earn money enough to take possession, in mean time allowing some other person to work the land for its produce. He is 24 years of age, and left the service of the Midland Railway, where he had been for 7^ years, as clerk, at a salary of ^48. He now lives in the hope of returning to the old country in about three years, and bring- ing out a wife to share with him the independence which by that time he will enjoy, living a life free from care upon his own farm of 160 acres. I am informed that N.W. of Rapid City and 20 miles S.W. of this city, the latter within 10 miles of Mr. Hartne's farm, some of the most fertile sections of the province are to be found. I have cut the following from a local paper. It must be remembered that the writer received a grant of £100 from Lady Cathcart's fund. It will bear out my earlier remarks of what a settler can do who is possessed of that amount of capital ; — The following letter from Ranald Morrison, one of the party who was assisted to emigrate to Manitoba in April, and settled on Canada Northwest Land Company's land, has been forwarded to us :— " I have to tell you about my land. I got 640 acres and I like it. I think it cannot be 34 A Visit to Canada in connection with better, and I am telling the truth. I am plantine some potatoes to-day. There is timber on my land, and plenty of water and good hay. I bought one pair of oxen for £45; waggon, ^^13 los. ; stove, £5 los ; iron harrow, £3 ; two cows, £16 each ; and all the harness corresponding. If I can put plenty of stock on the land, I think I will be as well off as the largest farmer m South Uist. Now, friends, it you arc in the same state as I left you, take my advice and come here soon as you can. Take rny advice and come here at once. Sell your stock and your crop and make ready. Lachlan Steel has half a square mile aside me. He can get plenty of work here, but he is busy making ready for his family." The following letter has also been received by John M'Innes from one of the party :— " I think if you come here at once with your wife I am sure you can make a fortune in a short time. Any person coming here with a little money will in a short time be a happy man — with any kind of family. My advice to you is to come here as soon as you can. Believe me, this country cannot be better for farmers. My land is within one mile of the railway. Now, I hope you and my brothers will come here as soon as you can." The Assiniboine river, into which the little Saskatchewan debouches about six miles above the city, pursues a most tortuous course ; the two bridges which cross the river are but one mile apart by actual distance, though not less than eight miles of river roll between them. A quarter section has been offered me which, though high in comparison to many others, might ultimately prove to be a bargain, as it is within two miles of the heart of the city, 160 acres, of which 60 are under cultivation, having a good house and the land partly fenced, price 4,000 dols., say /800, or £5 per acre. It appears high, but when I remember that land not one-fourth so good is rented at £5 per annum in my own immediate neighbourhood, it ought to appear of good value. It is reported of Dr. Fleming that he thrashed 100 bushels of oats from an acre of land. I report this state- ment with great reserve. The Doctor is President of the Farmers' Alliance, and his farm is four miles distant from Brandon. If the number of agricultural implements is a sign of activity, then we must be in the very heart and centre of a prosperous and growing community. There are implements of all sorts, possess- mg in many instances the latest improvements, and these are to be founci every- where — on the high road, on the side walks, under sheds in store, on vacant plots. Except at an agricultural show such a sight could not be witnessed at home. Here, where labour is scarce, everything that is possible is done by machiner>-. With so many appliances of an improved character, which place the citizens ahead of the mother country, in daily operation, it will scarcely be credited that in so many other matters which we deem absolutely necessary for comfort our younger sons should fall so far behind. For instance, sash weights are unknown m these new cities ; if you wish for fresh air and desire to keep the window open, you must find a piece of wood or other thing to trig the window open with. As I write in this well-appointed hotel, one window in the dining room is jammed open, the other is kept from closing by a fork being stuck between it and the sash. But all will soon come right with a progressive people. Messrs. Harris are largely engaged in the agricultural implement trade in Brandon. I visited their establishment, and found that the orders for binders, &c., had been in excess of their supply. The two-horse binder cuts five feet of corn and costs 290 dols., and cuts and binds ten acres a day. A three-horse binder cuts six feet wide and 15 acres per day, and costs 305 dols. The prices are gross, and subject to liberal abatement for early payments. The great improvement this season is the addition of springs to the seeding implements. This piece of machinery sows all kinds of grain broadcast, and the spring arrangement covers the seed and makes the sowing equal to drilling. An ingenious regulator enables all grain to be dealt with according to its bulk. Nearly all the implements are manufactured at Brantford, Ontario. Many handsome mules are used in this province, being imported from the Southern States. I omitted to mention that a charge of 50 dols. per annum covers every charge incidental to the use of the telephone. It is expected there will be two wholesale stores opened in Brandon next year ; if so, an impetus will be given to the city, and it will become a centre of commercial industry for the district. The land upon which the city is built is very poor, not suitable for farm work, though at a short distance the quality becomes very good. Capt. White expressed to me the opinion that Turtle Mountain possesses the finest land in the world. He himself has been out here three years, and has half a section of 320 acres. There are many English in and about the city, not less than 400. The oat crop, as else- where, is spoken badly of, and the wheat as likely to produce 25 bushels all The British Association Meeting , 1884. 35 ler on tny £13 los. ; >»inK. HI louth Uist. e soon as and make >re, but he in M'Innes e you can in a short oon as you lile of the les about ;es which less than iered me ove to be of which :ed, price mber that immediate . Fleming this state- ance, and ^ricultural ;entre of a s, possess- ind every- cant plots. at home. iachiner>-. le citizens idited that mfort our unknown Idow open, ■ith. As I led open, ash. But It trade in Ir binders, Ive feet of Irse binder [are gross, )rovement piece of Int covers \x enables lents are ;d in this lers every |ill be two I given to lict. The k. though ^ed to me brld. He There ^, as else- ashels all round. By the courtesy of the gentleman who is justifiably prou " of being Brandon's first mayor, I had an opportunity of driving through some of the best parts of the vicinity. Outside the city the Agricultural Association have secured 30 acres of land on which to hold their shows ; in the centre they have erected a large octagonal building which serves as a grand stand for the races, which are held within the enclosure. The operations of the Society have proved highly successful in improving the breed of horses and cattle, their enterprise causing them to give as high as /700 for a pedigree horse. Sheep are only raised here experimentally ; the spear grass, which grows freely, affects their legs. It is hoped that this difficulty will be overcome, and that the rich prairies may afford sustenance to innumerable flocks. AN ESTATE IN MANITOBA. The Mayor enabled me to visit the estate of the Honourable W. Sifton, ex-Speaker of the Manitoba legislature. His location is sec. 9, township 10, range 19 ; he holds a section of 640 acres, 470 of which are under cultivation, 368 being in wheat. Driving, as we did, through this vast field of grain, gave some idea of the capabilities of the dominion. Mr. Sifton cultivates timothy, a species of grass food well known to agriculturists. It is the only instance I have met of grass being raised except from the prairie. The senator has also 200 acres 50 miles distant, 40 of which is under wheat, 20 barley, and the remainder oats, and further, at Plum Creek, a half section 340 acres, 120 of which is cultivated. Plum Creek he speaks of as being the very best of land. The residence of the hon. gentleman is commodious, and will be more so by the additions that are being made. The homestead was sown all along its outside boundary last season with maple seed, so as to have the shelter of trees around it in coming years. Hoeing these seedlings I recognised a couple of Mr. Fegan's lads (John Mellish and Thomas Perry). They were happy, well fed, living with the head farmer, and each receiving 7 dols. per month, in addition to board, &c. Tht Hon. Mr. Sifton is a great temperance advocate, a thorough Christian gentleman, and a most practical agriculturist. So the lads are fortunate indeed. They are about 16 years of age. We also visited the farm of Mr. Whitehead, son of the gentleman of whom I have written in connection with the early days of locomotion. He farms a section of 640 acres, and in addition to grain raises horses and cattle of high quality. Here, as elsewhere, mounds of straw were perishing. From here to the American boundary, 75 miles, you could drive through fields of grain awaiting the sickle of the husbandman. The com elevators of the city have a combined capacity of i6i,ooo bushels. The civic buildings, which are situate at an inconvenient distance from the centre, comprise a prison, assize court, county court, sheriffs courts, &c. This day marks a strange horological incident, being comprised of 25 hours. Brandon is on the meridian, where the time is altered one hour. The train by which I travelled to-day is marked to arrive at 2.30, and to leave at 1.50 — an impossibility were it not that we were called upon to set our watches back the hour. From Brandon to Kenmay the land was poor for some distance, then cultivation was seen, some sloughs existed for many miles. There is a vast expanse of rolling prairie, and a little brushwood ; the few shanties were poor. A scene that would have made a lovely picture presented itself, a large patch of prairie flowers, of exquisite beauty and of every variety of tint, ran up close to the railway, and standing in its midst was an Indian, whose dress and form were highly t)icturesque. Beyond was what they call a slough, but what would pass for a ovely lake ; it was 10 miles long, and crossed by an elegant bridge ; it runs on to Alexander. LAND AND ITS YIELD. Mr. F. W. Stephenson expressed to me his opinion as to the superiority of the land out here to that of Ontario, where he had lived for many years. He was returning from the latter province, and said he wondered how he could have lived there so long. With his five stalwart sons he has a section of 640 acres, half of which is broken and 200 under wheat. " I only wish you could see it, " exclaimed the fortunate owner of this fertile farm. His neighbour garnered 40 i,immmi 36 A Visit to Canada in connection with bushels per acre last year, and he hopes his own wheat will be even better than this. The only hired labour he has is a lad, and this for only a few weeks. Mr. Stephenson informed me that the Messrs. Corbet, of Griswold, averaged 70 bushels of oats per acre last year. He said with half the labour and outlay, double the crops can be raised here than in his old province. Messrs. Corbet's yield of oats was 16,000 bushels. Griswold has but half-a-dozen houses, the station being a mere hut ; this was boomed as a paper town, and lots sold to the amount of 200,000 dollars ; to-day that number of^ cents would buy the lot. MUSCULAR CHRISTIANITY V. UNIVERSITY DEGREES. At Virden there is an excellent example of what a graduate of Cambridge can do when he is so determined. Mr. Thomas Routledge, who pulled number seven oar for Cambridge in 1880, and contributed to the success of his boat, came out immediately after the race. He set to hire work, and when the Bell Farm was started, had the post of manager. He then took a section of 640 acres at Rosser, and in addition to raising corn he bieeds high class horses, pigs, and cattle, and possesses, probably, 200 head ; he also breeds poultry. He has obtained as much as /250 for a pedigree horse. In addition to Virden he has broken 550 acres ; this will be for crops next year. From Virden the land is shrubby on both sides ; there is a population of 400 people around. I am told that in the spring employ- ment could be found for loo or 200 labourers, but they must be hard-working frugal persons. The Bell Farm people were lately advertising for married labourers, at 35 dols. per month, with lodging, but not board, also v;ith garden. They were to be allowed facilities for obtaining quarter sections. At Hargrave the rolling prairie prevails, and there are a few shanties, and so at Elkhom, but here there are a score of good houses, and the railway station is a good building. Fleming is the border town ; beyond this to the west, no liquor is allowed witb- •out a special permit from the Lieut. Governor. Coming to Fleming there is a long expanse of prairie, scarcely any wood, but an occasional ox waggon gives signs of life, and a shanty scattered here and there give evidence of the settle- ment of the country. The quarter section of 160 acres is granted on payment of a fee of 10 dols., and if a homestead of another 160 acres is required this is pre- empted upon payment of 2^ dols. per acre. A PROMINENT " NORTH-WESTERN. " At this place I met a celebrated character, Louis Leveillie, a half-bred, who has acted as interpreter to the mounted police, and has been very successful in effecting the capture of horse thieves, eleven of whom he has taken this year. These men pursue their nefarious calling upon, what may be deemed, terms of reciprocity ; they first steal a number of horses, and rapidly convey them across the boundary, where they sell them to citizens of the U. S. They at once capture as many as they can from the States, and return to dispose of their booty on this side the border. I obtained a copy of the permit he held, which enabled him to possess brandy for medicinal purposes, and which I commend to my temperance friends. Not transferable. Saskatchewan district, N.W. Territory, No. 1433. Liquor permit. Retina, July I2th, 1884. Within two months from this date, Louis Leveillie, of Maple Creek, is permitted to take into the North West Territor^r, two gallons brandy, and to have the same at any time thereafter in his possession ior medicmal purposes. E. Dewdney, Lieut. Governor North West Territory. — Leveillie is an intelligent man of 67 years of age, and is held in great respect by all who know him. He is ready to assist any one in distress, and was lately known to pay the fare of a sick Indian to his destination. He states, from an intimate acquaintance with the country, that the best land is to be found where he resides at Maple Creek. CANADIAN FARMING AND EXPERIENCES. Between Fleming and Moosomin there are sloughs and some brushwood and a few shanties, some little ploughing, and some good grass ; but the country looks more fit for grazing than corn growing. An ox waggon and other indications of The British Association Meeting, 1884. 37 Iritory. respect IS lately from an bd where rood and |ry looks utions of settler life appear at intervals. Moosomin has about 60 houses and a score of tents, some larger than usual. Regarding the winter, I obtained some valuable information from the Rev. James Robertson, the Presbyter of the Presbyterian Church, whose charge extends from Port Arthur to Calgary. Mr. Robertson informed me that he had camped out from 25th September to loth November in the snow, and has never been frost bitten ; he has even slept under the lee of a willow without a tent, with the thermometer shewing 25 degrees of frost. At Moosomin the train was boarded by Corporal Harper, of the mounted police, who overhauled Leveillie, and saw that his spirit permit was en regie. Harper is a fine specimen of the body he represents ; he looked more like a life's guardsman than a man on police duty, weanng a bright scarlet coat, jack boots, &c., carrying in a belt, each one exposed to sight, 20 rifle and 12 pistol ball cartridges, his revolver in the same belt, ready for immediate use. It was with some pleasure the corporal found two ladies in the car from his native county of Yorkshire. Indian Head is, like so many of the places I have alluded to, the creation of the Canadian Pacific Railway. Two years ago it did not exist. There are now many houses, two hotels running, and a large one, built by the Bell Farm Company, not opened, and which will probably be diverted from its original purpose, and be converted into a college. The experience of a night at the hotel was enjoyable, because it opened up a new phase of hotel life ; still, one night's experience was sufficient. The house is unfinished, and the arrangements most crude. I was shown into a double-bedded room, and proceeded to lock the door, and should have done so had there been a lock. This might have saved me from disturbance, for shortly after I had retired two hardy sons of toil took possession of the other bed. The name of the place (Indian Head), an encampment of Indians just outside, and a general feeling of mistrust, induced me to peep beneath both beds, and it was with some little disappointment that no Indian's head met my view. The " fixings " of my room were unique ; the bedstead of rough planks, rudely nailed together, and with such sharp edges, and the bed — a bag of straw so roup;h that it might well have served to work out a penance on. The only partition between it and the adjoining one, which I well knew to be occupied by a man and his wife, was brown paper, with a hole large enough in it for me to have got through ; there were also a jug, without water, and one towel — and the towels here are less than half the size we use at home — between the three of us. I made a firm resolve that unless my room mates walked in their sleep, I would have the first turn at that towel, and so I did ; but it involved my rising before six, though I had not retired till after one o'clock. Adjacent to my room a mother and child reposed, the "tootsey, wootsey's " of the little darling varying the sonorous sounds which emanated from the brown paper-partitioned room. Two ladies (Miss H. M. Hargreaves and Miss H. E. Pearson, members of the British Association) who arrived at the hotel at the same time fared better, so far as that they had a lock to their door. They were not quite content, however, with the appearance of their room, which was the quarters of one of the mounted police ; still, they found the accoutrements useful, as supplying the lack of ordinary furniture — a pair of jack boots serving admirably in lieu of a dressing table. It must not be thought that I am complaining of the hotel ; on the contrary, I admire the enterprise that runs an hotel under such circumstances, and deem myself fortunate in the experience it afforded me. BELL FARM, which technically is known as the Qu'appelle Valley Farming Company, Limited, is situated in the valley from which it derives its name, and is in the territory of Assiniboia, 320 miles west of Winnipeg, upon the line of the C.P.R. In the spring of 1883, actual operations commenced upon 2,500 acres ; this year this has been increased to 7,200 acres under crop, of which 5,500 is in wheat, in one con- tinuous area, broken only by roads, one unbroken field comprising 1,500 acres. As a rule each field is two miles long by one mile wide. There are 1,300 acres under oats, and of flax 400 acres, which is believed to be the largest cultivation of flax ever known in one lot. A herd of 60 cows, about 200 head of horses, and a few swine are kept for home purposes. The capital of the Company is 38 A Visit to Canada in connection with ;f 120,000, in shares of /20, of which 45 per cent, is paid up. There are about 50 self-binders of the most improved type, half of United States and half of Canadian make; of steam machinery there are seven complete outfits of thrashers ; there are about 100 sulky and gang ploughs, in addition to a large number of seeders, and all other implements necessary for the operations of a farm upon so extensive a scale. The territory of the farm is 10 miles by eight miles, say eighty thousand acres of land available for cultivation. The prospect at present is a yield of 30 bushels of wheat, of oats 50 bushels, and of flax 15 bushels per acre. If this estimate is realised (of which there can be but little doubt), the enormous quantity of 165,000 bushels of wheat and 70,000 of oats will be garnered on this one farm. I am promised the annual report, which will verify, or other- wise, the foregoing estimate. There are 100 men employed, accommodation being afforded for a large number on the farm. There are farm buildings of every kind, the ventilation of the stables being excellent ; the cow shed, as usual in this country, groans beneath its tons of straw, which afford ample warmth, shelter, and heat ; a large ice house supplies the necessary article for the use of the farm. The one wheat grown is that known as Red Fyfe, producing the quality known as No. I hard, and therefore commanding the highest price in the market. Major Bell, the founder of the farm, kindly met me at the hotel, and drove me there, where the kindly greeting of his amiable lady at once made me feel at home. We were fortunate enough to meet at the hospitable farm the Hon. E. Dewdney, governor of Assiniboia, and his lady, ^nd it will be a source of regret if time pre- vents my acceptance of his kind invitation to visit him at Regina, the capital of the province. Catching gophers is an industry of the Indians on the farm. Deemed a vermin, a cent each is placed on their tails. Many hundreds of the caudal appendage lay before me in Major Bell's office, and whilst I write, fifteen more are added to the number ; the bodies of the rodent afford a meal to their destroyer. A table in the drawing-room is covered with prizes and mementoes of Major Bell's skill as a crack shot. The Major was one of the Canadian team that successfully competed at Wimbledon in 1871, and obtained other prizes from the year 1865. During the time when the difficulty arose in the East, and it was probable that war might ensue between Great Britain and Russia, it was expected that Canada would be called upon to supply an army corps. The Volunteers to a large extent tendered to Lord Dufferin their services to aid the British forces, and Major Bell was one of the first to display his patriotism. A telephonic system has been established on the farm, by which direct communication is made with all parts of the system, and this alone saves a large amount in horses and labour. Major Bell does not make sanguine estimates, but forms his calculations on such a low basis as to pre- vent disappointment. There is no scarcity of labour ; in fact, the Bell Farm is a favourite field of labour. Farm labourers at this season receive 30 dollars per month, with board and lodging. The whole Ian a 1.; divided into smaller farms of 213 acres each ; these are sub-divided into thirds, say 71 acres each, this being deemed the capacity of one plough and three horses. After harvest, one-third of this small farm is left fallow, and ploughed between seeding and harvest, thus being ready for seed the following year. In addition to the advantage to the ground from being fallowed, the economy of working is preserved with a balance between the slower operation of ploughing as compared to the harvesting. Major Bell claims that by the system he pursues, the economies in working the farm, and the advantages to be obtained by the use of the most perfect class of machinery, he can produce the highest quality of wheat, and place it on the cars for 35 cents ; say IS. 6d. per bushel, or 12s. per quarter. The farm was purchased partly from the Dominion Government, the C.P.R., and a small portion from the Hudson's Bay Company, at an average cost of about two dollars per acre ; the portion of that bought from the latter was at a much higher figure than of the former, which greatly increased the average. The extensive yards of the Bell Farm present the appearance of an agricultural show. Rows of steam engines, binders, and every kind of implement meet the eye at every turn ; every implement is manufactured specially for the farm, and bears an intimation to that effect. Seated by the side of the Major, and behind his handsome pair of bays (Sultan and Jack), I had the The British Association Meeting, 1884. 39 pleasure of driving throughout the cultivated portions of the farm. There are studded about at various points 33 houses, of superior quality, in which the men reside. These receive 35 dollars per month, with house and an acre of land rent free. These men also board other men, for whom they receive five dollars per week — no small source of income to them. Close to each cottage is stabling, and at various points are erected 15 grain tanks, each to hold 1,000 bushels, besides granaries, to contain 5,000 bushels each. By depositing the grain as soon as thrashed in these receptacles much time and labour are saved. Great economy has been observed in working the land ; generally it is broken, and then back set, or ploughed deeper a second time, but Major Bell has only worked the land once. There are 25 miles of trees planted around the farm, and one avenue four miles in length. The crops are excellent throughout, but there is one piece of wheat, of 1,500 acres, of such superior quality that I only wish my farmer friends could see it. There are 20 acres self grown, The wheat brickled out last year, and pre- sents a fair crop. The fields are singularly free from weeds, but the young rose trees there are a few inches high, giving promise of beauty and fragrance next year. We drove along a wonderful furrow, two miles long, as straight as an arrow, the handiwork of a Scotchman, named James Ewart. A melancholy spot was passed in a field— a row of eight graves, the resting place of children who had gone from the prairie to their eternal home. The marvellous change which has been wrought within a few years is proved by the Major's ex- perience. Only two years since he came up from Brandon, the then terminus of the railway, with 120 yoke of oxen, 30 mules, and 11 horses, carts, &c., occupy- ing six weeks on trail. Within a week he was enabled to return by train, the track having been completed in the meantime. ABORIGINAL INDIANS. An Indian has just brought in more gophers' tails. His dress is picturesque, if not over clean ; his hair, which, like that of all his tribe, is long, is braided down to fine points, at the end of some of which are the tails of the gopher ; he wears a row of gaily coloured beads, and carries a gun of ancient make ; and his ears are ornamented at the top with rings. A gay fellow of his tribe is riding by ; his attire is gaudy in the extreme, his headgear being of the orthodox bazaar type ; he, too, has an ancient gun slung across his shoulder. There are about 25 wigwams of Assiniboine Indians near. They are indeed in a state of nature, and some could even vie with the noble savage whose only apparel was an umbrella and a pair of spurs. The young Indians are skilful in the use of the bow and arrow, shooting birds and gophers with some degree of certainty. An elderly Indian having the front of his hair tufted in a gopher skin, we, by signs, elicited from him that it was a talisman to the happy hunting grounds beyond. This man appeared to think he had not obtained full payment for his gopher tails ; so I gave him a five cent piece. This appeared to be in excess of what he thought his duo ; and he went off and secured an additional tail, and brought it in as small change. By signs he informed me that he had two papouse, and tha* ihey had worked the mocassins he was wearing. I passed a store where the. Government keep a supply of Red River carts, ploughs, and tents, which they distribute amongst any of the Indians who may desire to engage in agriculture. THE EFFECT OF CLIMATE ON FARMING. As an instance of an unusual crop, I was informed that Mr. Angus McKay, of Indian Head, harvested 460 bushels of wheat from 10 acres in 1883. My informant, Mr. D. A. McArthur, saw the com thrashed and weighed, The climate is such that the farmers have no fear as to the weather. The doubt which ever exists in England as to whether the harvest will be fine is unknown in this country, though there is a slight feeling as to the possibility of frost. The same informant told me of 18 years continuous farming without manure, the crops not becoming less. This was the experience of Mr. T. Cavanagh, who resides 18 miles from Indian Head. Mr. McArthur also said that if fifty labouring men were to go to Indian Head next spring they would find employ- ment ; but, as he said, they must be the right sort — hardworking, frugal men. "■"^l" 40 A Visit to Canada in connection with The wages are 25 dollars per month, with boarJ, &c. I am not certain if I have stated how the Government land is to be obtained. For 160 acres, which is a quarter section, a fee of ten dollars has to be paid, the land being taken upon certain conditions, as to living upon it, breaking, &c. This gives the right of pre-emption of another quarter section, but upon pay- ment of 2^ dollars per acre (for this payment time is allowed) it amounts to this, that by the payment of 410 dollars the absolute proprietorship of 320 acres can be secured. Mr. McArthur speaks well of the winter. He told me he came from Brandon in February, before the opening of the C.P.R., camping out, and not always under a tent, and during the ten days' journey suffered no inconvenience. If the country is new, the hours are early. At five o'clock thio ruing the coloured boy who fixes you up for the night announced that breakftwt would be ready shortly, so at Moose Jaw we alighted to commence the eating operations of the day. This town is but sixteen months old ; it has three hotels, and a population of 450. A number of construction men are going on to the end of the track ; they earn from sixty to ninety dollars per month. I was surprised to see so many settlers between Moose Jaw and Boharm, with shanties at frequent intervals, and some little cultivation. The grass is poor. The no.e:t'nu of medical officer on the line is worth 3,000 dollars per month, each mar. cu ii.r.utiiig 75 cents, per month. The land becomes poor as we approach Caron, .\^' .'• '" a small station, with but a single house ; this, however, is a good one. lh( ia.',d up to Mortlach seems very poor, and there is no appearance of settlers. A pi^tmesque Indian, clad in attire of grace and elegance, is p.aiug, accompanied ^ t'o squaws, with a pony drawing — well, I cannot describt vhat. ' Im, no wJ ' .., but an arrangement of poles, the ends of two forming shafts, the c. jr <.:A' i ailing on the ground, two more poles fastened at an angle forming accon.mc i>iOi ior passenger or stores. Then comes another Indian, actually, with an umbrella. For many miles before reaching Chaplin the land becomes hilly and many sloughs prevail, and the soil is of gravel. I judge at present Moose Jaw will be the most westerly point of attraction for settlers for some years to come. I have spoken of the freedom of travelling here ; as an instance of the difference which prevails, I may mention that, seeing me writing, the conductor offers to provide a table to facilitate the operation, there being a movable one in each compartment of a Pullman carriage. Fancy such a convenience in the old country ! THE CANADIAN PACIFIC SCENERY. We passed Lake Chaplin ; it is very small, but abounds in ducks and geese, hundreds of which are flying over it. Rush Lake Station is a single house, but an immense lake, partly swamp, and crowded in places with rushes — a wonderful resort for wildfowl, ducks teeming by thousands, and hundreds of swan of great size. Just above, wheat is cultivated, and for the first time for many miles is seen a shanty. The land as.sumes a better aspect, but not sufficient to attract settlers. Waldeck has no settlement, there being but one house, away from the station, and that appears to belong to the Company. Swift Current Creek commences here, and runs up to the station of that name. There is a very large growth of wild sage. The station is a good one ; there are several houses and stores, numbers of tents, and lots of tepies, whilst the Indians, both old and young, crowd around, and as an advance towards civilised life the babes are not papoused like juvenile mummies, but enjoy the freedom of our modern swaddling clothes. A GOPHER HUNT. Shortly after leaving Swift Current we drew into a siding to await the train going east. As usual, upon the stoppage of the train, a large number of passen- gers alighted. Suddenly a gopher appeared in sight. This was the signal for such a scene as would be impossible in England. Twenty-five construction men, for the most part carrying revolvers, hastened in pursuit of the little fellow, and commenced firing as fast as they could, one of the pursuers firing four cart- ridges; others of the party fired from the car. Happily the gopher made its escape unharmed. Presently others emerged from their burrows, and were The British Association Meeting, 1884. 4X rtain if I acres, :he land :c. This ran pay- amounts ietorship 5 winter, ening of ten days' ire early, the night lighted to n months istruction ty dollars J Jaw and on. The K> dollars mes poor use ; this, d there is grace and I — well, I the ends nore poles es. Then les before id the soil ly point of reedom of y mention ilitate the 1 carriage. and geese, nouse, but iwonderful n of great lies is seen ;t settlers. le station, jmmences I growth of id stores, id young, I papoused clothes. the train bf passen- j signal for Ition men, lllow, and Ifour cart- made its ind were pursued with the same relentless determination to secure the tail as a trophy. Those who had no pistol armed themselves as best they could with any lethal weapon at hand. In the end the earth squirrel proved victorious, to the delight of those of us who were not animated by a desire for its destruction. When the conductor examines the tickets he places in the hat of each pa.ssenger a simple ticket to denote all right, the hat being selected that no di.sturbance may occur if on the next examination its holder should be asleep. C.P.R. EXPERIMENTAL FARMS. There is no sign of settlement until we reach Gull Lake, and here is the first of the farms which the C.P.R. have established as settlements. On it a section house is built. The crops are good, considering that the land was not back-set, and that seeding was commenced rather late. Mosquitoes are very thick around. They do not produce any ill effects upon myself; still, the annoyance is great. We have passed many lakes, notably Goose Lake, which is appropriately named, considering the quantity of these birds which congregate upon it. The lakes literally teem with wildfowl ; numbers of beautiful swans are to be seen here, as white and pure as snow. These wide expanses of prairie would support endless droves of cattle and flocks of sheep, pasture and water being abundant. In days of yore the buffalo must have existed in very large numbers, as indicated by the many heavy trails they made in passing across the prairie to the lakes for water. Their skulls and horns, bleaching on the prairie, speak of the days when they roamed in full liberty on lands untrodden by the foot of man. There are tens of thousands of square miles ready to afford abundant pasturage to cattle and sheep beyond number, and millions of acres of soil awaiting the upturning of the toiler, so that the Old World may look with confidence to the New to supply all it needs in regard to food. Mr. Robert Wills, of Chicago, has just purchased 1,200 head of cattle at Maple Creek, for conveyance to Chicago ; he deals in about 15,000 head annually. They average in price from 50 to 65 dollars each. It will require four freight trains to convey his purchase away. There are but few cuttings on the C.P.R., but where they exist it is necessary to protect them from drifting snow, and for this purpose earthworks are thrown up all along. As I am writing a flock of ducks is passing by, of countless number, and I could bring down a handsome bag from the car at a single shot. The country continues the same with little variation until Maple Creek is reached, where settlements are forming. There are numbers of Indians here, the station swarming with them ; they appeared in all the brilliancy that vermillion could produce. About a dozen lads, armed with bows and arrows, were showing their skill by shooting at small coins placed in a cleft stick, and it was wonderful with what precision they aimed. At Maple Creek and Gleichen the farms farmed by the C.P.R. for experimental purposes show good results. At the former wheat was in sheaf ; the crops are good, considering there was no back-setting on the land. Mr. J. J. English informed me he had seen 80 bushels of oats and 35 of wheat per acre on 50 acres last year. On Wednesday night the train parted 10 miles east of Medicine Hat, we being left on the track for about 40 minutes. We passed Langevin, where gas pours forth from the earth in great volume : it is always burning, and to some extent it is utilised by the C.P.R. A buffalo was shot near Medicine Hat on Tuesday, and formed a repast at that place yesterday. I took breakfast to-day with a man who was attacked by a bear on the ist of June. He threw his dinner away, off which bruin dined, instead of, as he had intended, off its owner. About three miles east of Calgary a few houses are seen, after many miles, without any sign of settlement other than the C.P.R. affords. Bow river is then crossed — a noble stream, surrounded for miles by undulating scenery. There is also a horse ranche here, and the land below the hills forms a beautiful plateau ; numbers of fine cattle are grazing, and there is some cultivation. A GRAZING TRACT. — THE GROWTH OF TOWNS. For grazing, perhaps the line here passes through some of the finest land. The soil is of the richest prairie loam, but has no depth compared to that of Manitoba. Shanty farmhouses and tents are quite crowded on the plain ; there ■ff**" 42 A Visit to Canada in connection with are also many log houses, and the Indian does not allow his right to be wholly ignored. This is about one mile from the city, and many of the log houses are the rudest I have yet seen. Had the plain been laid out with some degree of order, and the buildings erected in something like style, no more beautiful spot could have been selected for a settlement. The city has moved westward, and, if I mistake not, Calgary is destined to become the most important place in the N.W. territory. We cross the Bow river again before reaching the more modern portion of the city. The Indians were in force, adding to the picturesque scene. A wooden church of fair design is on the point of completion, and whilst there are stores innumerable, there are four hotels, the Royal George having a bill of fare comprising 13 items. The commencement of the town, east of the river, dates from about a year, that of the newer part only six or seven months since. Yet there are nearly 300 houses and 1,000 inhabitants, and as a proof of the future of this place there are from 15 to 20 ranches for horses and cattle. The Hudson Bay Company have a store. I reiterate my early opinion that here we have an important city in embryo. A butcher's shop of ample dimensions and abundant stock provides the necessities of the growing population at 11 cents, or 5|d. per lb., by the side, the quality being of the finest. All Calgary requires is that the city should be laid out with due regard to the requirements for the future. The beautiful plain which forms its site, the lovely river which meanders around, and the hills, which not only add to the charm of view, but afford a shelter, combine in lending their aid to a completeness rarely to be found. A CIVILISING HERO. I have spent some time with one of those remarkable men, whose lives are spent amongst races both civilised and savage, and with whom the value of human life is held far more cheaply than with the denizens of more settled places. My hero is a Swede, 6-ft. i-in. in his stockings, and weighed 220-lbs. before he was reduced to his present weight of ig4-lbs., by hurts sustained in warfare. Jonathan Gustasson by name, he has been married but four weeks, he having met his wife in Chicago but two days before they were united in holy matrimony. They had known each other long, but for years correspondence failed, and it was only when taking a herd of cattle to Chicago that they met in the street. The honeymoon was confined to two days, the groom having to come to the great North-West to undertake operations with the C.P.R., he being a civil engineer. He is in charge of 39 boys, as they are called, of some of whom I wrote as pursuers of the innocent gopher on the railway. The first fatal engagement in which Jonathan took part was of an exciting character. One day he saw the Indians all around in their war paint, indicating that mischief was brewing. The following week, which was in August, 1880, he and his party, 18 in number, were surveying, when they were attacked by 50 Indians, the chief he recognised by the hat he was wear- ing, and which Jonathan had given him. The Indians fired, killing the chief and another of the party, and decamped. Shortly after, at night, he was awoke and found but two men firing, the other 15 having been killed. Seeing a horse at hand he jumped upon it and rode away. The Indian chief shot him in the back, the bullet passing through his body. The horse, however, carried him away, and he survived. It appeared that one Indian had been killed and two severely wounded. The Indians burnt the tent and all the instruments of the surveying party. They proved to be of the Patch tribe. A month ago Gustasson had a fatal encounter with a man named Sampson, whom he had long known in Sydney and other parts, and who had taught him to lasso buffalos and wild horses. The men were employed on adjoining ranches, and it appeared that for some unexplained cause, Sampson entertained an unfriendly feeling towards his quondam friend. Meeting one day, Sampson applied an opprobious epithet to Jonathan, who asked what he meant, when Sampson said " I want to draw your pistol." Jonathan replied " It will take much to make me draw my pistol upon you," whereupon Sampson called him a coward and fired, the ball skirting his ear ; a second shot hit Jonathan in the chest, upon which he said " Sampson, this is too much for me," and immediately shot him m the temple, killing him upon the spot. Gustasson at once gave himself up to the Sberi£f who, The British Association Meetings 1884. 43 be wholly es are the of order, ipot could and, if I the N.W. :n portion scene. A there are lill of fare ver, dates nee. Yet ! future of i Hudson e have an iions and cents, or equires is he future. :s around, a shelter, « lives are of human aces. My ire he was Jonathan ;t his wife They had jnly when oneymoon h-West to in charge innocent took part their war :h was in len they as wear- Ithe chief he was killed. Indian le horse, idian had id all the A whom to lasso is, and it |nfriendly iplied an •son said Imake me .nd fired, hich he temple, iriff who. Itribe. after due enquiry, exonerated him from blame. These men — cowboys as they are called — when engaged on the ranches, are dressed in a picturesque manner, with jack boots, tassels, braided and furred adornments, are rough in their manners and mode of life, and being always armed, difficulties constantly arise of a fatal character ; still, they are amenable to the softer and more gentle influences of life, as an incident in Jonathan's history will prove. He was out with his cowboys, sixty-four in number, armed and equipped as I have described, when an excursion train came up, and he ordered a halt, and commanded the band of the party to play to them. The train conductor objected, but the authority of the chief of the cowboys prevailed, and after playing two tunes the band struck up the old familiar air of " Home, sweet, home," when the boys, one after another succumbed to the sweet influence of the homely music, and many shed tears in remembrance of the homes so far away. I may add that whilst the gentlemen of the excursion party were very nervous the ladies were not at all alarmed. A NEW SETTLEMENT. I have described Calgary before visiting its western extremity. It has lost nothing in beauty, but presents features of increasing interest. The plateau continues until it is interfered with by the river coming parallel with the line. It is broad and grand, with islands clad in verdure breaking up the boldness of the stream. After a short distance the plateau appears on the other side of the river gently inclining up to moderate hills ; about three miles further up the bends in the river, the heavy bluffs, with trees at their feet, present a view rarely equalled, if ever excelled. The river and bluff form a graceful crescent, whilst another expanse of grass separate them from the railway. Again charming islands isolate themselves on the bosom of the Bow. A corral indicates the nature of the cattle trade carried on. Just below the river is forked and takes its course on the other side of the line, still, as before, ornamented with one or two islands. Bluffs range along on this side ; grander and grander it becomes ; more islands, and pines of singular beauty grow down to the water's edge. In places the water is shoal, and shingle islands are formed. The conformation of the bluffs vary at every point. A glorious bend in the river opens up another range of hills, and we are gradually ASCENDING TO THE ROCKIES, being now 3,500 feet above the level of the sea. The heavy gradient tells upon the engine, our speed not exceeding six miles an hour just now. The river has a most circuitous course, and islands are formed of varying shape. On Sunday, the loth, about 400 yards of rock fell upon the track ; the trains were delayed 30 hours, and it was only by blasting that the obstrudtion was removed. Near Cochrane is a very large corral, and as there are nearly 200 horses on the land close by, they evidently belong to it. Just above we again cross the Bow, and run alongside it for some distance. In a local paper there are no less than 42 cattle and 18 horse ranches advertised; in each case the animals being illustrated. At Radnor we are surrounded by mountains, the summits of which are enveloped in mist. They are thickly clad with cypress trees. When felled they are floated down the Bow river. At Morley a grand plain extends for about three miles, affording excellent grazing down to a lovely bend in the Bow on the south, the river dividing another plain of larger extent, heavy bluffs and deep gorges separat- ing the plains from the line of railway. The land is excellent for cattle, but in my opinion too light for agricultural pursuits, compared to the eastern praries. A stretch of table-land of higher elevation is intersected by the railway, and from its height the river fades from view. No settlers appear to be attracted either by the beauty or fertility of the neighbourhood ; the land is too stony for arable pur- poses. A large plantation of cypress, and then the Bow appears. Nearer Kananaskis we cross the river, which forks off and continues on the other side of the line. So swiftly does the river run as to assume to European eyes the form of rapids. On the further side a plantation of splendid cypress raise their graceful stems to the light of heaven — the finest group I have ever seen. The bends in the river reveal lovely islands thickly wooded with cypress of lesser growth, the mountains towering aloft on either side, the higher covered with cypress from 44 A Visit to Canada in connection with base to pinnacle. Mountain upon mountain all around, their caps lost in the clouds, indicate our proximity to the far-famed Rockies, from which we are still 50 miles distant. The river here spreads to the dimensions of a lake, with islands thickly wooded, and mountains higher still, frowning down upon them. The scene is ever varying, ever grand, and equally indescribable. The grand old rocks that have frowned upon the world since its dawn, hoary with the ages, are quite devoid of tree or verdure ; the river still pursues its rapid course to swell the grand lakes of this great continent. Near the Gap no trees exist of any size, but shrubs abound on either hand. A range of mountains largely covered with snow appears and extends for miles — such a sight as amply repays the lengthened journey which is involved. The finest mountains cluster beneath them at Can- more, a station on the C.P.R. Besides the section house of the Company there are but two buildings, both hotels. They are the rudest log houses of the earliest type, and give but little promise of an appetising meal ; however, the result was far greater than the anticipation, a substantial provision, sufficient to satisfy appetites not whetted as ours were by the sharp bracing air of the Rockies. I mention with favour the provision afforded, in consequence of our having left civilization far behind, and our close proximity to the verge of this great continent. I find that snow fell here to-day. It was necessary to fire up in our Pullman. I may mention that we are permitted to enjoy the comfort of our sleeper to-night, it being only the .second time a Pullman car has ever travelled west of Calgary. Had it not been for this concession, we should have had the choice between a car far worse than our third class carriages, which have been occupied by the 39 cowboys, and about 30 others, day and night, since Tuesday morning, without any attempt at cleaning, the alternative being a cabooze or travelling kitchen in which meals are provided for the railway men. Laggan being at this time THE EXTREME LIMIT OF THE LINE is consequently the newest settlement, and it is worth the journey to gaze upon. The Bow river runs parallel with the rails, and there is only space between for one row of houses. Already it is being possessed, and I can readily look to the not far distant day when the settler, who is now content with a tent of the smallest dimensions on the river's edge, will be the proprietor of as charming a location as can be imagined. Then the land will be cleared up to the railway, and the desert will blossom as the rose. Across the river, hills well wooded will be pro- tected by the everlasting mountains, which row rear their snow-clad summits to meet the clouds. Hotels form a large proportion of the buildings, as is necessary in a place where the wants of so many have to be supplied. The sleeping arrangements are not quite in accordance with old world ideas, being arranged upon the sleeping car plan, but with a difference, and this not in favour of the proprieties. Some of the folks are only waiting for the completion of the line to migrate to British Columbia. At one hotel there is a beautiful tame fox, as gentle as a kitten, playing with the visitors and dogs, and sleeping cosily with the land- lady. It has snowed again in the night, though the temperature is genial. The elevation of Laggan is 5,070 above sea level. The tents of the mounted police presents a pleasing contrast to those of the settlers ; there are three bell-shaped, one being the caboose, and two square, one for sleeping. The mists are lifting, and the mountains, . which at times appear indeed the baseless fabrics of our imaginations, having no apparent foundations, are presenting an appearance of glory which neither description nor imagination can depict. The agent of the C.P.R., who wintered here, tells me he did not suffer from the cold, and that the climate is the finest in the world. There are gorges within view having 500 feet of snow in them — this is the estimate of the engineers of the line. The trees around are cut in the same ruthless manner as described before — stumps of four feet remaining in the ground. This is surprising, as the timber is used for railway sleepers. To our agreeable surprise the Pullman was allowed to run on to Stephen ; the track thither being m a crude state, it was necessary to obtain the permission of the contractor's engineer before proceeding. On the right the mountains were bare of snow, but those of extreme height had a little on them. The Bow becomes very broad and shallow, scarcely covering the shingle bottom ; The British Association Meeting, 1884. 45 lost in the ve are still vith islands hem. The grand old le ages, are se to swell of any size, jvered with lengthened em at Can- ipany there the earliest result was t to satisfy Rockies. I having left it continent, 'ullman. I • to-night, it Igary. Had in a car far 39 cowboys, iny attempt rhich meals I gaze upon, petween for 00k to the :he smallest a location y, and the ill be pro- summits to s necessary le sleeping |g arranged rour of the the line to |x, as gentle the land- snial. The ited police ill-shaped, are lifting, :ics of our fearance of ;ent of the Id that the |g 500 feet The trees ips of four |for railway run on to lobtain the right the on them. ie bottom ; it gave great effect to the well timbered slopes of the mountain range on either side, whilst the track, in its tortuous course, carried the eye down the steep incline up which we had slowly come, the background being a pile of snow- capped mountains, whose peaks were lost in the clouds. It can easily be under- stood that the gradients are heavy ; the steepest grade is one in 22. On the sides of many mountains, which are timbered as high as there is vegetation, there are spaces of great width, called snow slides or drifts of snow. The peeps along the line through the trees, unfolding, as they do, faint views of the snowy mountains, are very pleasing. Near Stephen is Summit Lake, insignificant in itself, but interesting from the fact of its being THE HIGHEST POINT, and that from the lake the water flows both east and west, and immediately it is passed the incline towards the Pacific Ocean becomes great. Of the confor- mation of the mountains, and the beauty of the scenery that meets the gaze on every hand, it is impossible to give an adequate idea. The exact height at the summit is 5,416 feet above the level of the sea, and if to this is added the height of the mountains, which are nearly 7,000 feet, it can be estimated how high they tower above the sea. On the right are very grand mountains without snow, their height and shape rendering it difficult for them to retain the snow. Corduroy roads and bridges testify to the infancy of the district, which, it may be remarked, is within the province of British Columbia, and about 500 miles from the Pacific. Sink lake is a pretty piece of water, surrounded by trees down to its edge, with the mountains in the background ; these become higher and more grand, mostly timbered as high as vegetation is possible. There is a large corral of oxen, to afford supplies for the construction men. Teams of mules and horses are labour- ing along almost impassable roads, with hay for the horses engaged on the work. At Stephen a grandiloquent barber announces his tent as a Tonsorial Palace, and he adds to his other industries baths and laundry. Dynamite is manufactured here, and largely used in blasting the rocks, the echo from the explosives rever- berating amongst the mountains, and being re-echoed again and again. The grade of the line is terribly steep, continuing at 4J per cent, for a great distance, the curves, too, being such as to render the working of the line difficult. Three weeks since the train took charge of the engine and overcame the brake power, causing a serious accident, killing one and injuring 36 other men. There are powerful steam saw mills working by the Company. Temperance people will not regret to hear that whisky cannot be obtained for less than 2s. a glass, and then surreptitiously. There are plenty of bear, mountain sheep, and other wild animals near the end of the track ; a bear was killed within a few yards of where I am writing during the past month, and since May no less than 50 have fallen to the shots of the sportsmen. The river is narrow, but most beautiful in places, forming lovely cascades, waterfalls, and rapids ; one bridge crosses it, at an altitude of 100 feet. After leaving our Pullman we were glad to board a truck, and ride to the end of the track. At times our speeed did not exceed a couple of miles an hour ; the road was in an unfinished state, and is only used to convey workmen and stores, and in many places our journey was not unattended with danger, and ladies were forbidden from joining the party, as it was deemed prudent to have gentlemen only, who could make a jump for life in case of accident. Occasionally tents among the trees varied the scene. We reached TUNNEL CITY, and passed through the tunnel which gives the city its name. About 18 tents form the city at present, and they are for the most part pitched in a damp situa- tion. Kicking-horse Castle and Tunnel Mountain are objects of interest, the former delineating with accuracy an ancient castle of enormous proportions. To lessen the chances of accident in case the engine takes charge, a switch line is being cut into the hills at a steep up grade, into which any truant train may be shunted. A silver mine has been discovered on Tunnel Mountain, and it is to be hoped that Mr. Brothers, the assistant superintendent of the construction of the line, may prove the venture a success. The mountains close in on both sides, the river 46 A Visit to Canada in contuctiott with and train alone separating them. A short tunnel through a projecting rock is the ex- treme point we reached. In e.\cavating near the tunnel solid blocks of ice are driven through, the ice having been hermetically sealed within the bosom of the earth for untold ages. Great skill and care are recjuired in driving the engines on the partially finished line. Daniel Keeves, who drives No. 127 engine, and Robert Mee, No. 147, are very careful drivers, of long service in the Company. Before leaving the woudrous scenery which abounds in so much grandeur all around, and which is probably unsurpassed in the world, I must express my sympathy for the thousands of toilers working in this remote region ; their pay of two dollars — 8s. 4d. per day, is hardly earned, and the inducement to work on Sundays at three dollars — I2S. 6d., makes their life one continuous round of toil ; there are no home or social influences to ameliorate their unhappy condition, and as to religious ob- servances or duties they would be far better off if they were painted savages or mild Hindoos, for then public sympathy would be excited in their behalf, and Missionaries sent to convert them to the religion of the people to whom they belong. A son of the Emerald Isle remarked " We have no priests here ; they could not live ; we have no sin here," and he stated the only work of a religious character he had heard of was two nuns coming from Vancouver's Island to collect for religious purposes. I commend the condition of these workmen to the conscience of those who are responsible for carrying out the highway which is to connect the two great oceans. THE RETURN JOURNEY. Near Cochrane the most massive and elegant suspension bridge in the N.W. territory crosses the Bow, which runs both broad and deep. The horses of the well-known Cochrane ranche were all in the corral, and presented a wonderful appearance. A few miles further, and we see the front part of the train gaily careening around a curve, whilst we are moving only by the momentum obtained from the truant engine. Some of us alight and go in pursuit of that part of the train which has broken away, and a long way in the rear a brakesman is engaged in coiling up the cord which is supposed to maintain communication between the engine driver and all parts of the train. RAPID FINANCIAL SUCCESS. Money has been made very rapidly in this country. A member of the House of Commons, whose friendship I have made, was one of a number who purchased land at Brandon two years ago. He has already had a return of 95 per cent. of his capital, so that the remaining valuable land stands at a cost of but 5 per cent, upon the outlay. A farm which I visited, and which I have already de- scribed, is the property of the gentleman who farms it. He commenced upon it without capital four years since, and has lately refused 40,000 dols. for the farm and the stock, &c., upon it. At Eldon, a few miles out, we came to a sudden halt, occasioned by the engine again breaking away. We were delayed half- an-hour. It seems strange that an engine can be detached and run for miles, as it did, in this instance, without the knowledge of the driver. SILVER CITY Appears to be a thriving place, there being some 70 houses of various kinds built or in course of erection. The Bow River is broad and rippling, and runs by the side of the rail for miles, and were it not for the Rockies i should say there were mountains around ; they are high enough to be snow-clad. The conformation of the groups is very fine, and for the most part they are timbered nearly to the top. A bend in the river forms a beautiful base to the mountain range. The snow that fell in the night is dazzlingly bright in the morning sun. Castle Mountain derives its name from a fanciful castle in the air. A miniature lake, surrounded by a small piece of luxuriant grass, is pleasing to the eye after the monotony of mountains and trees. In mentioning Canmore I omitted to speak of three remarkable pyra- mids, which stand about a mile from Old Joe's restaurant. They are abc ut 30-ft. high, and are of sandstone, having been left by Nature unclothed — striking objects in contrast to the verdure of the knoll upon which they are placed. ITear the Gap a block of rock detached from the mountain side stands out, like a milestone The British Association Meeting, 1884. 47 :k is the ex- of ice are iom of the engines on and Robert ^ Before round, and thy for the ars — 8s. 4d. iree dollars o home or ligious ob- savages or behalf, and vhom they lere ; they a religious ; Island to ;men to the vhich is to I the N.W. rses of the wonderful train gaily tn obtained part of the is engaged etween the the House purchased i per cent, but 5 per ilready de- d upon it the farm a sudden |layed half- r miles, as Ikinds built luns by the Ithere were Irmation of |to the top. snow that lin derives a small ■mountains |able pyra- x ut 30-ft. |n{; objects Hear the I milestone set to mark the distances of the antediluvians on their march to the later ages. At Kananaskis there are some grand falls. They are about half-a-mile from the track, and not easy of access. By the courtesy of our conductor, however, the train, which stopped to detrain a gentleman and his wife who were camping out for pleasure, was allowed to remain sufficiently long to enable the passi;ngers to avail themselves of the grandeur which THE KANANASKIS FALLS .ent. They would repay a visit from anyone who has the opportunity of see- j them. On no line in the old country would a train stop to enable passengers to witness an object of interest, but which country has the advantage in this re- gard I offer no opinion. Shortly after we were again brought iip, the portion of the train immediately ahead of us having parted and left us standing. The engi- neer in this instance at once discovered that his train had separated, and soon coupled us up again. The track in places is very rough. Standing on the plat- form of the Pullman a few miles on, I had such a rattle as travellers at home cannot understand. The brakesman applied his brake with full force, and for some seconds it appeared as if the Pullman car must leave the line. The enter- prise found in new cities is remarkable, A striking instance is to be found in Calgary. In that part which is but four months old there is a tonsorial establish- ment which would do credit to an ancient town of which I know something. The saloon is 22 feet by 20 feet, and fitted in a style of elegance. In its centre is a pure marble stand, triangular, with three basins for washing, and shampooing apparatus. The fittings are of the brightest silver. There are two baths in adjoining rooms, the hot water arrangement being most simple, and its (instruction proving, as Mr. R. J. Ogburn (the proprietor) suggested, that necessity is the mother ' invention. The furnace, boiler pipes, &c., are his own handiwork, and made of Is and ends, such as old tin cases, packing boxes, &c The smallest tents I > seen are seven feet long, with an opening rather less, and in many such, men iheir wives rough it till, by dint of industry, a shanty can be erected. Young Indians crowd the platform of the cars, ornamented in the rud' t manner, some with large brass rings in their ears, others with pieces of iron i/i the same organ, and many with their long hair run through brass beads, and all with coloured bead necklaces. The head-quarters of the mounted police comprise a dozen good square buildings. Men mount sentry around in true military style. A primitive floating-bridge is hauled across the Bow River, in equally primitive style, by means of a rope stretched from shore to shore. The prairie land commences directly Calgary is left for the eastward journey. There was great tribulation in the Pullman one morning, a passenger having lost his purse containing 700 dols., and as he felt certain he had placed it in his valise the night before, it was thought that one of the boys had passed through from the front car and stolen it. The excitement increased until the porter of the Pullman, on hearing of the loss, produced the purse intact, and received the well-merited reward of a 20 dol. bill. Some veritable cowboys put in an appearance, fine stalwart fellows, with boots of cowhide up to their hips, and laced from end to end, the laces looped up in graceful form, and spurs of such a size with rowels in them wondrous to behold. I visited the Model Farm and Garden of the C.P.R. at Gleichen, and was disappointed with the result. This arose from no fault on the part of the land, but from absence of skill in cultivation. The land is capable of yielding abundant crops if properly attended to. The seed was good, and proved, too, prolific, but from want of thinning at the proper time the result is poor. This would, of course, be rectified under proper management. SPONTANEOUS GAS SUPPLY. About 90 miles from Gleichen are the natural gas works at Langevin. These are probably one of the most remarkable sights in the Dominion. The railway people were boring for water, and at a depth of 900 feet struck gas, an immense volume of which rushed to the surface. It soon became known that it was iniiammable. A pipe of large dimensions was placed in the boring to convey the gas above ground. To this pipe an arm of 3^ inch tubing is fixed, and at 48 A Visit to Canada in comuction with each end an upright pipe is used as a burner. From one of these the gas is con- veyed to the railway works, and is used to generate steam ; the other is kept burning day and night to consume the gas. My visit being at night, I had an opportunity of witnessing this large jet of gas alight under favourable circum- stances. It is turned on and off as in an ordinary burner, and for my benefit it was turned full on, producing a roar and a brilliancy I can never expect again to witness except from the bursting of a main pipe in one of our streets. The gas appeared most pure, and the light brilliant. At Forres wheat was in hyle, ready to cart away. Approaching Maple Creek we saw a train ahead, going at great speed, and whisthng for the breaks to be applied ; but in vain, as it was the fore part of our train careering gaily away, leaving us behind. The Pullman drew up, and we quietly walked to the hotel and took breakfast. Maple Creek being a meal station. The mounted police have large barracks at this place. Mine host (Mr. English) supplied me with bunches of wheat and barley. They are marvels of excellence, when it is remembered they are grown with no other cultivation than merely breaking the surface. Mr. Wills, whose name I have already mentioned, gave me an ear of oats of remarkable quality. i6in. long. I have another 20 inches in length. At Gull Lake I visited another of the experimental farms of the C.P.R. The corn crops are very good, consider- ing there was no back setting of the soil, and that the crops were late in being put in. The garden was excellent, and does credit to the man in charge. There were good French beans ; peas were over, but an abundance gone to seed ; turnips very good, up to 18 inches in circumference ; pumpkins and melons late, but coming along. I had a narrow escape of being left behind, my anxiety to obtain a fine specimen of wheat causing me to forget that trains wait for no man. On some of the lakes pelicans were pointed out, and a noble eagle was seen swooping over the prairie at a great height. Many farmers are going back to J)rimitive times, and are making their own coarse Tweeds for clothing. It is good or wear, but of rough appearance. Lakes are so large in this country that we think nothing of the old Wives lake sixty miles long by forty wide. I availed myself of the stoppage of the train to secure the skull and horns of a grand old bufialo. which had become bleached by exposure on the prairie for ages. I also bought from a young Indian a bow and some arrows, in the use of which great skill is exhibited. We meet with many settlers of gentle spirit, but whose exterior denotes naught of old country habiliments or taste. Notably this morning, at Virden. a trio are together — University men — Mr. Routledge. of whom I have already written, a son of the Rt. Hon. Mr. Bouverie, and Mr. Kyall. The two former are chums, the latter farming about 60 miles away. I believe I have mentioned that Mr. Routledge will have 1,000 acres under crop next year. I feel some interest in a quartette of enterprising youths who have left homes of com- fort and luxury to rough it in the North West. Mr. C. V. Shaver, whose father. Dr. Shaver, I know, Mr. W. H. Motherwell, and Messrs. Dickenson and Ross, are all graduates of the Guelph Agricultural College, Ontario, and have each taken up a half section (320 acres) of land. No. 2, Meridian North, Indian Head, where in shanties about one mile from each other they are becoming the pioneers of this country's greatness. I have spoken of the freedom of railway travelling. I have just heard of Lady Douglass and her daughter being accommodated on the cow catcher of the engine. We are at Brandon to-day, and so the time has to be altered. The hour we set back when last we crossed this meridian has to be regained, and so we set our watches forward an hour, and the day will be of 23 hours only. The real effect is that travelling east we appear to do the journey in one hour less than shown in the time table. At Maple Creek a freight team was taking rest. It was composed of about 100 Red River carts drawn by oxen and horses, and, owned by h-'.If breeds, that were going to Balleford with freight for the Hudson's Bay Company. The team travels in Indian file and covers a large space in transit, Some of the oxen were very large indeed. The herdsmen who convey cattle to the end of the track for the supply of the men employed on the line receive 75 dols. a month with all expenses, but the money is hardly earned. Seven days a week, day and night, the latter spent in the cars. An instance of The British Association Meeting, 1884. 49 ;as is con- ler is kept , I had an le circum- r benefit it :t again to The gas yle, ready ^g at great as the fore man drew pie Creek this place, nd barley, rown with lis, whose )le quality, ed another 1, consider- ite in being ge. There le to seed ; lelons late, r anxiety to "or no man. le was seen ting back to It is good itry that we i I availed grand old !es. I also hich great )se exterior Homing, at om I have The two eve I have ear. I feel les of com- lose father, and Ross, have each ian Head, le pioneers travelling, lodated on e time has ian has to will be of le journey eight team n by oxen ith freight d covers a herdsmen iployed on is hardly cars. An SUCCESSFUL FARMING Is afforded by Dr. Good, who, with his partner. Dr. Jones, are in good practice in Winnipeg, but who have added during the past year farming operations to the practice of medicine. These gentlemen purchased 100 acres of land last year for 500 dots., say /^loo, at Griswold, 20 miles west of Brandon, on the banks of the river Assiniboine. I met the doctor on his return from the farm. He was in excellent spirits over his prospects, and courteously gave me the following figures, shewing that cost of land, breaking, back-setting, and sowing, cost of seed, getting in the wheat, thrashing, and placing it on rail, building a granary, and interest on capital from date of purchase, and cost of superintendence, amounted to 2,385 dols. He estimates the crop at 35 bushels per acre, and that it will realise 73 cents per bushel, or 2,625 dols., showing a clear profit on one year's crop of 240 dols., or nearly /50, and this, after paying for the land and other charges which only arise in the first year. Dr. Good's brother had 150 acres of wheat last year, yielding 37 bushels to the acre, which he sold at 80 cents, before the closing of navigation, and 75 cents thereafter. The doctor has promised to send me an account of the actual yield when his com is thrashed. I met with a son of Mr. McGregor, of Austin, about 80 miles west of Winnipeg, who gave me a bunch of wheat, a good sample, gathered as it came. Mr. McGregor estimates the yield at about 35 bushels to the acre. The land had been back-set. I was in conversation with a man whose struggle had been severe. He lives at Oberon, Carberry. He commenced without 10 cents — to use his own idiom — and within a few months had the misfortune to lose his wife, still having the care of five young children. He had 30 acres under wheat, with 60 more for cropping next year, and last year he harvested 70 bushels of oats per acre. The toil and privation this hardy fellow endured no one can tell, but I venture to say under no other circumstances could he have come off so victoriously. The harvest is not so forward as I had expected ; the wheat being garnered at Forres, upwards of 600 miles N.W. of Winnipeg, I expected to find it more forward as I approached that city, but until within 60 miles at Bumside, not a field was cut. It must be noted that merely passing through the country by rail does not afford the best opportunity for judging the country, and this for two reasons — first the track goes right away the most direct route to the Rockies, and secondly, from some reasons of State, the Government prohibited the settlement of the land within one mile of the line ; but this restriction, I am glad to know, has been removed, and in consequence, for some distance west of Winnipeg, cultivation has been brought down to the track. PORTAGE LA PRAIRIE is a rising place. There is a very large enclosure near, probably for housing cattle in the winter. Those farmers who are in advance are back setting their land ready for cropping next season. It will be noticed that many good crops have been raised without this second and more expensive operation, still the man with means and capital prefers to incur *his additional expense. In writing of Virden I omitted to notice the farm of M.'. Stephens, which adjoins that of Mr. Routledge. ivlt . Stephens has a herd of about 200 head of cattle. A sad occur- rence took place there last week, when Mr. Sanford, a nephew, I believe, of the !>roprietor, was caught in the mower and cut to pieces. I have some personal eehng of sympathy, having spent a few very agreeable days in the company of Mr. Stephens. I regretted time did not allow me to visit the Temperance City of Saskatoon. It is beautifully situate on the banks of the river, from which it takes its name. The Rev. James Gundy, of Vienna, Ontario, whom I recognised as a fellow voyager, and who conducted the service on board the Spartan in Lake Superior, will afford information to enquirers. The Society claim for settlers the advantages of first-class land, pure water, a navigable river passing through the settlement, sober, thrifty, moral neighbours, healthy climate, no fevers, convenient to coal mines, season longer than in Manitoba, supply stores, and location in fertile belt. I am not responsible for these many advantages, not having seen the settlement, I have, however, been in many places where most of these advantages 50 A Visit to Canada in connection with are to be found, and have no reason to doubt the statements made. I am informed that my respected townsman, the Rev. Cecil White, occupied the pulpit of the episcopal cathedral in Winnipeg on Sunday, the i6th. I heard a grand and powerful sermon on the 17th, in St. Mary's Roman Catholic cathedral, preached by Monsignor Capel. The first half was such as any. Catholic or Protestant, Churchman or Dissenter, would listen to with rapt interest, as the learned father propounded the doctrine that all men have sinned against God, and were unable of themselves to become reconciled unto Him, and in tones of eloquence and power declared that none but God could forgive sin, no not the Pope himself, neither bishop nor priest, but God alone. But when the rev. preacher came to his second part, and endeavoured to show the necessity of con- fession to man, and the power of the priest to grant absolution, I need hardly say he did not carry the sympathies of Protestants with him. His great point seemed to be that for those who practice infant baptism, and thereby claim the admission ol unconscious infants into the family of God, there was no escape to the necessary sequence that those so baptised need confession to man and absolution at the hands of a duly qualified priest. St. Mary's was crowded, as, I believe, it was on the preceding Sunday. The Presbyterians have a beautiful church. It was opened for service on Sunday the i6th, with a congregation ot 1,600. The Knox church is the permanent building taking the place of the temporary one, in which hitherto worship has been conducted. The Rev. Mr. Gordon, the minister, has gathered around him some of the most influential families in the city. I was present for a short time at a social gathering, and it was refreshing to see such a large number assembled in so beautiful a place of worship, all intent upon carrying on the worship of God. The American people have better appliances for warming their houses than we at home. They obtain all the heat that is possible from their fire places ; we allow the greater part to ascend the chimney. They place stoves in the centre or other parts of the room, so that the heat radiates in all directions, and even in the kitchen it is the same. Their cooking stoves are ver}' good, and beside being far more available for culinary purposes than our own ranges, they give heat around the room. They are of such slow com- bustion that when lighted they continue burning throughout the winter. I fear I omitted to mention the courteous attention I received on my former visit to Winnipeg from Mr. Charles N. Bell, a vice-president of the Historical Society, and the author of a valuable work on the N W. Territory a copy of which he kindly presented to me, and Mr. J. B. McKilligan, who gave me a valuable work on the rise and progress of the city. I find the Presbyterians have had a cause in this immediate neighbourhood since the year 1815. I regret to have heard of a serious accident to one of my fellow passengers by the Parisian. It appears that a party visiting the Bell farm the day fallowing my visit was being driven around, when the horses started so suddenly as to overturn the back seat upon which Professor Jones and Mr. Burton were sitting, throwing them out with great violence. The professor escaped with but little injury, but I regret to say my fellow passenger was so badly hurt as to be placed under medical treatment, and brought to this city and taken to the hospital. The report is his back is badly injured, but it is thought not so severely as to prove fatal. The Honbl. Gilbert McMicken, to whom I had an introduction, but with whom on my former visit I was unable to arrange a meeting, has just kindly called upon me, so I placed myself in his hands for a run through the city. He introduced me to THE HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY'S STORE. The foundations are built of materials taken trom the bastions and walls of Fort Garry, the site of which is near at hand. Besides two large buildings used as offices, &c., the main store is looft. square, with an additional store looft. by 50ft. It comprises three storeys, and supplies everything, from a needle to an anchor, as the saying goes. There are 100 employes. It has a lift, and all goods are handled by steam. The English assistants have three months' holiday every three years, with salary and all expenses paid on visiting the old country. The salaries paid are double those in England, whilst living is arranged by haif-a-dozen joining together in keeping house. An assistant receiving £% to /lo per month at home would receive ide. I am 1 the pulpit rd a grand cathedral, "atholic or •est, as the gainst God, 1 in tones of no not the en the rev. sity of con- hardly say oint seemed e admission le necessary tion at the e, it was on h. It was The Knox ne, in which linister, has city. I was to see such intent upon tpliances for t is possible mey. They eat radiates jking stoves rposes than slow com- iter. I fear ler visit to al Society, »f which he luable work lausein this of a serious hat a party lund, when lh Professor lence. The passenger :ht to this but it is JMicken, to unable to n his hands l-alls of Fort ys used as jft. by 50ft. anchor, as kre handled iree years, lies paid are [together in luld receive The British Association Meeting, 1884. 51 100 dols. here, say £?o. Many instances of booming were given me by the Honble. Mr. McMicken. Mr. Ross, who builtahouseatacost of /i6,ooo most extravagantly, giving /16 for the facing bricks, drawing them all the way from Philadelphia, bought from Mr. Mulligan, who had been a private soldier, property in River Avenue to the amount of 360,000 dollars, paying 20,000 dollars cash. Mr. Ross would be glad to realise if he could. Mr. McMicken's private residence, beauti- fully situate on the banks of the Assiniboine, comprises six acres, and was pur- chased by him for /60. He would not now accept ;f6,ooo for half of it ; the other moiety he sold for /r,400. There is a good house upon it, and it is greatly improved, and lying at the foot of the bridge it is easily accessible from the city. Mr. McMicken was M.P. for Lelland county, in which the celebrated Falls of Niagara are situated. He has a fine oil painting of the Falls as they existed many years ago, showing the Table Rock, which has long ago been washed away. The line of the Falls has greatly altered in form since the date of the painting. There is another picture, though not possessing so much artistic merit, is of interest, show- ing the River Niagara opposite Lewiston, where I left the steamer on my visit to, the Falls. The bridge in the picture, which is now existent, was built by Mr. McMicken and at the time was the broadest span ever constructed. The view is easily re- cognised, as it is just below the monument erected to the gallant General Brock. A plot of ground he had bought for 1,600 dollars was sold in 56 lots, at 60 dollars each, but a few years since, and is now worth, with the bottom of the boom out, 600 dollars each. No one can form an idea of what a new city is unless they see one. The streets are so bad that, although I pay the omnibus a quarter dollar for conveying my luggage, I prefer paying a street car five cents, for a ride, as the rumble-jumble over the ruts is too much for my nerves, the car tract being the only level running, and then, unless it stops at a crossing, you are landed in a slough of despond. Side by side, with stores of the dimensions of a good-sized packing box, are blocks of buildings of the class seen in Manchester or in London. The public buildings indicate faith in the future, being in proportion to a city of a quarter of a million of inhabitants, rather than of the present population of some 30,000. This applies to the Governor's House, the Parliament House, the Court House and Gaol, the College, and five or six public School-houses, and the Hospital, where, by-the-way, I have just been to see Mr. Burton, whose severe accident I have alluded to, and who, I am happy to say, hopes yet to attend the meetings of the British Association at Montreal. The civic buildings in course of erection will be a magnificent pile when completed, affording offices and every convenience for the conduct of the business of the mu "jipality. The foundations are in for a new Post Office, which will be of equal proportions to the other public edifices. Perhaps one of the most wonderful instances of the great increase in the value of city property is afforded by the site of the Queen's Hotel, which has been my quarters on both my visits to the city. In 1872 ten acres were sold for 15,500 dollars ; in 1882 a portion of this land was sold for 13,000 dollars, and the remainder in 1883 for 150,000 dollars. In addition to this enormous profit rents were accruing during the whole period. Referring to the value of property, Mr. McMicken pointed out a lot of land — 100 acres, — that was offered to him five years since for 6,000 dollars, and which he refused, the same having been sold through the agency of his son, two years since, for 150,000 dollars. Moving house in this city is different to that operation at home. I passed to-day a good-sized two-tenement house that had been removed bodily from one part of the city to another. Licensing for sale of liquors here is far outside local option. The I^icensing Board com- prises the Judge of the County Court, who is chairman ; the ^Liyor, if a city; if not, the warden of the county ; and a third member appointed by the Government. Applications are made to the Inspector, Mr. R. L. Tupper, a member of the well-known family of that name in England, who advertises the notices for three weeks. The inspector visits the premises, and reports as to their fitness, &c. The number of licenses is limited to three for the first 12,000 inhabitants, and then one for every 500. Saloon keepers pay 600 dollars ; hotels, 52 A Visit to Canada in connection with 400 dollars ; wholesale dealers, to which there is no limit as to number, they not selling less than two gallons, 200 dollars. There is a third-class, similar to our grocers, who pay 360 dollars, but these are to be abolished in six years' time, and only those now licensed can carry on till then. If I mistake not a future industry, and one likely to prove highly remunera- tive, will be the culture of hops. In Winnipeg I picked hops growing wild, without any culture within the city ; they were growing around the porch of what was formerly the Government House. I was informed that brewers had pronounced these hops to be of excellent quality. Had they been ripe I should have brought a sample away. Although I was prevented visiting the Sykes Farm, I have been able to gather authentic particulars respecting it. Its owner is a wealthy gentleman, residing at Edgeley House, Stockport, England. It comprises 20,000 acres, of which 3,000 are under cultivation, and 1,500 more will be in seed next year, and a further 1,500 the year after. The farm con- sists of alternate sections, the others being farnled by good men from Ontario and Eastern Canada. Maps of each section are provided, showing the character of the soil and every particular. I understand the farmers who are on the Government sections would receive young Englishmen and afford them tuition in farming, thus affording exceptional advantages to young gentlemen who desire to become well acquainted with the country before settling. The valley of Qu Appelle, in which the Sykes Farm is situate, possesses a very high reputation. The farm is very much on the lines of the Bell Farm, but with the exception that Mr. Sykes uses steam machinery to a large extent, which he has brought out from England. EN ROUTE FOR THE STATES. I am now over the boundary and in the United States, en route for Chicago, per St. Paul and Minneapolis, passing through the prairie, the grass very good, but what little cultivation there is does not afford good crops ; some wheat is in sheaf. Glyndon is a settled town, having a grain elevator. Bamsville is a meal station, and possesses a very extensive dining room. My breakfast afforded a pleasing contrast to what I had been accustomed to in the Rockies, and was the first I had eaten in the United States. The charge there was half a dollar ; here three quarters. Near Rothsay, cultivation is more extended, land is fenced, and cattle appear. There are miles of wheat, and all the land is settled to Rothsay, with two grain elevators. The track is partially fenced along, an unusual feature in this country. The fencing probably has some relation to snow drifts, as it is more prevalent alongside cuttings than where the track is level with the land on either side. The wheat continues to Carlisle, where there is a grain elevator. Sloughs are frequent, some a mile in length ; one of them quite pretty, with several islands on it. Near Fergus Falls the country is nicely wooded. Here I saw the first wheat ricks. The town appears to be an old settlement, some of the houses being of a good class ; in the immediate neighbourhood the land is swampy. The town is much larger and of more importance by far than any I have visited outside Winnipeg and the cities in Ontario, covering, as it must, some miles of ground. Some time before the train left the Dominion, it was boarded by an officer of Customs from the United States. He quietly searched the luggage of the passen- gers, but when informed that mine belonged to a member of the British Association, he courteously allowed it to pass. I say courteously, although he had no legal right on British territory, but at St. Vincent his power would have been supreme. Ashby is a moderate town, wheat all round ready to carry ; some already in stack, large sloughs on both sides equal to fine lakes. From Brandon, a poor place com- f)ared with the city of that name on the C.P.R., to Alexandria there is but little and capable of cultivation. Near the Lake of Geneva the oats were in sheaf, and there were some patches of maize. This lake is a summer resort, and highly patronised by visitors. There is a large hotel adjacent for their accommodation. There are scarcely any wild fowl on the lakes and sloughs as compared to those in the North West. The season is, however, some fortnight or nearly so earlier in this district. Alexandria is the station for the Lake of Geneva ; here, as throughout the corn-growing area, are grain elevators. The lake is extensive, the track running through it. It is of irregular shape, and surrounded by woodlands. •. they not 1 ar to our 1 time, and 1 The British Association Meeting, 1884. 53 remunera- tving wild, ! porch of rewers had }e I should the Sykes Its owner ngland. It 1,500 more farm con- m Ontario :haracter of Jovemment rming, thus ecome well e, in which irm is very Sykes uses gland. 3r Chicago, very good, wheat is in is a meal afforded a nd was the lollar; here fenced, and Rothsay, 1 feature in it is more on either Sloughs islands jw the first louses being The town Ited outside of ground, officer of [eral i I passen- ^ssociation, d no legal supreme. dy in stack, [ place com- is but little I sheaf, and land highly imodation. to those so earlier I ; here, as lensive, the voodlands, which add a charm to its beauty. Osakis is a meal station, the dining hall having a frontage of 100 feet. I think I have mentioned the size of the sleep- ing cars, they are 75 feet long, including the platforms, and are fitted in the most comfortable manner, every appliance needed for the convenience of their occupants being supplied, even to ice water and sanitary purposes. And so they need to be, as I travelled nearly 2,000 miles, making the car my home for six consecutive days and nights. At first the fixing up is rather queer, but it is soon overcome. The cars are worked throughout the journey by lads who offer for sale in succession, apples, pears, plums, bananas, cigars, books ; the latter they leave for passengers to read, in the hope of effecting a sale. The prices are from 100 to 300 per cent, above value. To-day I was offered a kind of bean nut at 10 cents per wine glass. Being a novelty, I ventured to invest five cents for a few. The offer was declined, as the vendor could not sell so small a quantity, " there being nothing got out of them, you know." At times they sell papers, and these they charge double. The road to West Union is wooded, and but little under cultivation. The distance between Winnipeg and Chicago is 868 miles— a pretty long run, according to old country ideas. Sauk Centre is an important station, where they are commencing to build with brick ; the houses are of good dimensions. Capacity of freight cars is expressed in pounds, and not as with us by tons, hundredweights, and quarters. A large bell is fixed to every engine, and is rung by the driver as stations are approached or departed from. We reach Albany, and are only about 80 miles from Minneapolis. Between this and Avon the land is thickly timbered. A large lake swoops round plantations of good trees, and the country presents a nice appearance, but with only small portions that are cultivated. This place reminds one of Stratford, in Ontario, named after the immortal bard, the river running through it being called the Avon, and each street bearing the appellative of some well known character in Shakespeare. It was difficult to resist the most pressing invitations which I received from my friend Dr. Shaver to visit him in his home, so full of Shakespearian reminiscences. St. Joseph appears to do a good lumber trade, though corn forms a staple, as the elevator proves. The town is old enough to have exhausted one spire, a new one being placed on the church. Near St. Cloud we crossed a small river, the first I have seen in the States. St. Cloud is a large city, as cities go. There are large plantations of maize around here. QUALITY OF CANADIAN WHEAT. I find that the following grades have been determined upon for estimating the quality of wheat: — No. i, hard spring wheat. No. i Northern spring, and No. i spring, must each weigh sSlbs. to the bushel, and No. 2 of each above 56lbs. ; none weighing less than 52lbs. is graded. The finest qualities must be mostly composed of Scotch Fife wheat. I have no knowledge how these grades com- pare with our home-grown corn. I note that the ticket under which I am now travelling bears every date, from January ist, 1882, to December 31st, :886. These tickets, about which I have written, are marvels indeed. In this country you are not confined to the crush of the railway office, but can purchase your ticket at any time for any place. For instance, at Winnipeg I held a ticket to St. Vincent, a distance of 68 miles on the road ; still, I was enabled to purchase my ticket from St. Vincent in Winnipeg through for Toronto. With the exception of the short distance between Montreal and Quebec, I now hold tickets right away to Liverpool. Near Clearwater there are large tracts of maize. A floating-bridge crosses the river there, hauled across by a rope, which is stretched from shore to shore. Lower down is an island, a bridge built over, and in places the river is quite choked by the thousands of logs which are being floated upon its bosom. I am surprised to find that this is the Mississippi. Near Monticello we again cross this world-renowned river, which, although of such poor dimensions up here, deepens and broadens until it forms a highway through the continent, and debouches into the Gulf of Mexico at New Orleans. From hence to Minnea- polis we pass through a wooded valley, here and there rudely cleared by the burning of the trees. The prairie has long been left behind. I have tracked wmummmmm 54 A Visit to Camda in connection with our road to contrast it with the land in Canada, and most certainly it suffers by the comparison. Here, however, we find cows, and pigs, and chicken, and a very few sheep, and for the first time manure is spread upon the ground. Of Minneapolis it is difficult to form an adequate conception. It is a city twenty-five years old, with a population of 120,000 that has more than doubled during the last three years, whose trading interests advanced in ten years from 750,000 dols. to 100,000,000 dols. ; whose manufacturing interests aggregate 48,000,000 dols. ; that built over 3,500 houses last year, and will build over 4,000 this; whose real estate operations for the current year will reach 30,000,000 dols. It has the largest and handsomest hotel in America— the West Hotel — not yet finished, will cost 1,500,000 dols. ; a city with 19 lumber mills, cutting 300,000,000 feet of lumber annually ; the largest flouring mills in the world, with a capacity of 29,000 barrels daily, and an export trade of 1,500,000 barrels per annum ; a city with 13 rail- roads, having the tallest electric light mast in the world, 275 feet in height, carrying eight lights of 4,000 candle-power each ; the greatest water power utilized in the United States — the Falls of St. Anthony, 135,000 horse-power at low water mark. Minneapolis expends annually over 200,000 dols. for educa- tional purposes. Her churches represent every shade of religious de- nomination. Minneapolis has no aristocracy and no paupers. Over 800 new firms have engaged in business since January, 1883, and the number of suspen- sions has been greatly below the average. Minneapolis pays larger wages to skilled labour than any city in the North West. It has eleven grain elevators within her limits, and no distilleries. Her broad streets and noble avenues com- mand the admiration of thousands of transient visitors, and her park and boule- vard system is unsurpassed. The great Manitoba viaduct over the Mississippi River is the most magnificent stone railroad structure in the world. The various railroad shops now located here give employment to 2,000 men. The commerce of Minneapolis in 1884 will exceed 125,000,000 dols. in value. Minneapolis, with municipal improvements second to none, owes less than two million dollars. The West Hotel ranks amongst the finest in the world. It is 196 feet on Fifth Street, and 174 feet on Hennepin Avenue. The first storey above the base- ment is built entirely of solid marole, the second storey of mixed marble and brick, and the remainder of terra cotta and brick. The arch at the entrance on Hennepin Avenue reaches to the height of the second storey. The building is surmounted by an octagonal tower, 32 feet in diameter and 72 feet high, which makes the building 200 feet high. There is a steam engine of 150 horse power, and two dynamos for supplying the electric light. There are seven duplex pumps, capable of supplying 700 gallons of water each per minute. The office, which is laid in marble, is 90-ft. by 70-ft., and is 32-ft. high. Leading out are two rooms, one for ladies, 32-ft. by i8-ft., the other for gentlemen, 24-ft. by i8-ft. The bil- liard room is 89-ft. by 50-ft. The reading room is 50-ft. by i8-ft. There are Turkish, Russian, and electric baths. There are railway ticket offices, check service, and gentlemen's furnishing store. The dining room is loo-ft. by 50-ft. and 28-ft. high., without any column to obstruct the view. The kitchen is 84-ft. by 50-ft. ; the cooking range occupies 36-ft. The ladies' supper room is 50-ft. by 40-ft. There are 407 sleeping rooms, also 140 bath rooms. The plumber's bill amounted to 190,000 dols. There are four lifts or elevators. The bedrooms are double the usual size, and the furniture much better than is usually found in hotels. The stores in the city are very fine, many being three stories, and some four, above the basement, and in the newer buildings the basements are 20ft. high. The Mississippi is crossed by three bridges — a suspension bridge of a single span over 250 yards wide ; above this is the railway bridge, and below it a solid stone bridge. The river is divided by an island, and from the branch two canals are tracked from which the flour mills of Messrs. Pillsbury obtain their motive power so long as the water supply is effedual. When the river becomes too low, steam power is employed, in the aggregate of 2,400 horse power. These mills produce the largest supply of flour of any in the world, turning out as they do 5,500 barrels per diem. The next largest output is 3.500 per day. The head of the firm is the Mayor of the city, and the mem> The British Association Meeting, 1884. 55 bers of the firm are of one family, there being three besides the Mayor. It is impossible to describe the mill, there being nothing beyond the multiplication of machines in which it differs from others. There are 300 millers and men employed, and the works are run day and night. Samples of flour are taken every three hours, and tested for quality and fineness. Of last year's wheat 1,000,000 barrels have been converted into flour, and there are yet 40 days in which to complete the year, in which the total will be raised to 1,150,000 barrels. In hot weather the quantity is diminished owing to the wheat becoming softer. The mill proper has six working floors with one over for storage. There are buildings m addition. There is a good market, the supplies of fruit being excellent ; melons, pumpkins, grapes, mulberries, plums, apples, pears, &c., abound. Potatoes are very fine, tomatoes are in profusion, cucumbers here as elsewhere are so poor as to be unmarketable in the old country. Messrs. Washburnes have the second best mills in the city of Minneapolis. The head of this firm has just built himself a mansion at a cost of 400,000 dols. The lumber trade is very important, and sawing mills one of the great industries of the city, giving employment to some 2,000 workmen. Men are advertised for in St. Paul's for city work, 7s. 3d. per day ; 200 for rockies, 8s. 4d. ; for day tunnel work, los. sd. : drillers of stone, I presume, 40 cents per foot. Station work, 20 cents per yard, work certain for two years ; men in city, 8s. 4d., 50 for Minnesota, 10 on grade, &c. Board is stated to be i6s. 8d. per week. Minneapolis has no less than 13 railways running into it. St. Paul is ten years older than her rival Minneapolis, and has the same population. It is more of a commercial place ; its stores are large and of great depth. The father of rivers is bridged across, the extreme length of the bridge being upwards of 600 yards, but the river itself is not half of this. A new bridge is just begun. Many buildings in St. Paul are very good. The German National Bank, in course of erection, has a frontage of 150 feet. Maize is largely grown here, green corn being used as a vegetable. The U.S. police are dressed in ordinary attire, a suit similar to a yachtsman's with a deer- stalker hat, a silver star on the breast alone denoting other than a civilian dress. I omitted to say 25 teamsters are wanted at 4 dols., say i6s. 8d. per day. I must do our fellow citizens of the Dominion, as well as our cousins of the States, the justice of saying that the habit of spitting attributed to them does not exist in an appreciably greater degree than in England respecting this unpleasant habit, which I have endeavoured to relieve the Americans from, I may reproduce a notice fixed in the depot, " Gentlemen will not spit here ; others are requested not to do so ; " suggesting that the habit is not tolerated by the better sort of people. At Hastings the Mississippi broadens, but is very shallow. On it is a steamer with a paddle- wheel astern the whole width of the vessel. It is a tug, towing a couple of barges. The restaurants have inviting bills of fare. One tempted the hungry wajfarer by announcing that to-day is supplied a game -dinner, red snapper, golden plover, and halibut. Signs unknown in England are found here ; for instance, railroad tickets bought, sold, or exchanged, and those who have not provided for a rainy day will find relief in the announcement that umbrellas are to let. Frogs all alive and of brilliant colours are temptingly dis- played in the windows of eating houses. We cross the grand river at Hastings at a high elevation. There is here a branch to Still Water Lake, with its lovely island in the centre. Before leaving West's I was informed in the hotel that the estimate of cost will be largely exceeded. The works are very far from being complete. It is now believed that the total will foot up to two million dollars. At Reed's Landing the river presents a novel and pleasing aspect. Two more stern-wheelers are lying listlessly upon its ripples. A (jueer-looking side wheel steamer is there also, painted a dull red colour. But the novelty is the rafts. They appear to be of deals or prepared wood as a foundation, and are freighted with bundles of battens and wooden roofing tiles. Picturesque little shanties are erected for the shelter of the men who work them. They have huge tholes along their sides, and such an array of rudders at the stern, formed of good sized fir trees, with deal blades inserted in them. A wooden railway bridge crosses the river in an elegant curve, and an island rich in kiii.ige make together a scene to which my countrymen are nnaccuatomud. As yet the river itself has «piip> 56 A Visit to Canada in connection with no proportions of magnitude, though the course through which it is beginning its sinuous way assumes a form of grace and beauty. Many boating parties are fishing, but with what success I do not know. We lose track of the river until we reach Minneiska, where it broadens, and has a back ground of hills and trees, the latter to its edges. The piles for a bridge froip the city across to the other side have just been driven above River junction. We sup, as the afternoon meal is always called, in the dining saloon — an elegantly fitted and upholstered car There are five tables of ample width on each side of the car, with seats for four at each table. The menu embraced upwards of thirty items, and the meal is served in excellent style, at a charge of 3s. It is indeed a novel experience to be dining in a train with the great Mississippi stealing gently by. Tne river does not as yet grow broad and deep, but the scenery around is very beautiful — hill and dale, knoll and valley, clothed in rich verdure, presenting constantly changing scenes. La Crosse is a lumbering city of importance. A viaduct, nearly two miles long, carries us into the town. We have a darkie wedding party on board, and at the junction where they have to change, they go on to the platform and become demonstrative. The bridegroom and best man are well attired, wearing boxer hats, and having a white water lily as a button-hole, emblematic of the purity, if not complexion of the bride. She is bedecked in the grandest style, even to the " improver " of the old country. A water lily graces her bosom, and matches the ostrich feather which adorns her hat. The bridegroom made bad choice in the colour of his gloves; they were so exactly the shade of his skin, that with one hand gloved and the other without, I could discover no shade of difference — a contrast would have been pleasing. At length the best man played a nigger melody on a mysterious instrument ; then the happy bridegroom sang to the accompaniment, but all was anxiety for Jemima Jane, whose age certainly in- dicated that she was well able to take care of herself, but her anxious husband feared the catastrophe of his " fair " bride falling from the platform, leaving him a disconsolate widower. The bridesmaid, who might well have been the mother of the trio, preserved a dignity becoming her position. I may add there are numerous islands in the Mississippi nicely timbered, but the want of water is leaving shoals in many places without any vegetation upon them. We soon lost sight of the river altogether. The city of Milwaukee is of^some importance, having a large population. Chicago is the most wonderful city of modern times. Though almost destroyed by fire only about a dozen years ago, it now has a population of over half a million. Its commerce is beyond any other in the cattle and meat preserving trades. It is a slack time during the summer months, but in winter no less than 25,000 persons are engaged in these industries. It is sickening to know that one man can slay 600 oxen in a day, and another 3,000 pigs in the same period. The latter appears incredible, but I have the assurance of those engaged in the busi- ness that it is so. Messrs. Fowler, Messrs. Amour, and Messrs. Libbie are the principal merchants in this trade. Chicago is beautifully situate on the shore of Lake Michigan, and the journey of 16 miles to the extensive works where the Pullman cars are manufactured is interesting. The city of Pullman, created only three years last May by the enterprise of the gentleman whose name it bears, and where he then established his works for the manufacture of the Pullman cars, possesses a population of about 5,000. No intoxicating liquors are sold within its precincts. In addition to the Pullman works, there are two other considerable industries carried on, the Union Foundry, and the Allen Patent Paper-Wheel Works. The engines which give power to the Pullman works are of great magnitude, the engine-house being about 30 yards square, the fly-wheel 30 feet in diameter. The water tower is about 200 feet high, and 24 feet square. The works and buildings of the Pullman Company are most substantial and cf gocd design, and wholly built of brick. There is a fine hotel, and an arcade. The grounds in front are laid out with great taste, with lakes, and beds of flowers, &c. There is a public ground. When it is considered that within four years the site of the city was a swamp, it will readily be conceded that Pullman is of remarkable growth, even when compared with other cities in America. A wonderful feat is recorded in to-day's papers, performed by the The British Association Meetings 1884. 57 inning its irties are : until we trees, the ither side m meal is tered car s for four i meal is ince to be iver does tiful— hill changing early two on board, form and I, wearing tic of the lest style, >som, and made bad skin, that shade of an played m sang to rtainly in- husband aving him le mother there are f water is soon lost :e, having destroyed rer half a treserving less than f that one od. The the busi* ie are the ! shore of vhere the ise of the (s for the X)o. No Pullman Foundry, rer to the 30 yards eet high, are most ne hotel, th lakes, ered that :onceded cities in I by the Pullman Company. To test the possible capability of the works, the whole strength was engaged on Monday last in the construction of flat cars, when between 6.30 a.m. and 6 p.m. 100 were turned out complete, and painted, being one in every six minutes. Owing to the large number of visitors interfering with the workmen, none are allowed to visit other parts than the engine-room and water tower, but by the courtesy of the manager, Mr. Rapp, I was permitted, with three other members of the British Association, to inspect every department. It is difficult to say how many workmen are employed at the three works, but I think 3,000 a fair estimate. Labourers earn from 9^ dollars to 1 1 dollars per week, and skilled workmen from 15 dollars to 20 dollars, board, &c., costing 4^ dollars to 5 dollars. The line from Chicago to Pullman is charming, running as it does by the shore of Lake Michigan, whose waters are stated to be the bluest in America. Several cutters and a schooner gave the shore a home-like appearance, though from the expanse of water it might have been the open sea, the horizon alone being its boundary. The streets of Chicago are very good, some being many miles long, and as straight as possible. The tramway traffic is enormous ; a double line is propelled by a stationary engine, by means of a steel rope running beneath the ground. As I passed to-day I saw they had experienced a serious accident, the large cog wheels of the machinery being completely shattered ; in consequence a portion of the journey has to be done by horses. The steam cars run three and four coupled together, and when laden, as they were this evening, must have carried nearly 300 persons at a time ; not only were the seats full, but passengers crowded all around. I believe a second street has a similar steam service, and side by side horse cars are also running. The Palmer House I prefer to any hotel I have yet had experience of. The hall to-night, brilliant witn the electric light and crowded with guests, is a fitting spectacle for the ladies to behold, as they gracefully look down from the alcoves on the first floor. The Palmer House Hotel has a frontage of 93 yards in State-street, and of similar length in Munroe- street. The kitchen is a sight to behold, and is accessible to guests ; the chefs are white, and so are the females engaged in it, but all others, as well as the waiters, are coloured men. The Palmer House is the head-quarters of the Democratic party, and the Convention, at which Cleveland was accepted as a candidate for the presidency, was held within its walls. I saw a substantial brick house, two stories above the shop in Fourth Avenue, Chicago, which had been removed bodily from the other side of the street, and I find this by no means an uncommon operation in this country. I ascertained at Messrs. Armour's works that they slaughter 1,500 head of cattle, 8,000 hogs, 300 sheep, and 100 calves daily on an average throughout the year. I find that the present prices of meat, retail, are — Beef, from 4d. to 6d. per lb. ; bacon, 4d, to 8d. ; pork, 4d. to yM. ; the cheapest of all being good cornea beef at 3d. to 4d. per lb. The price 01 milch cows is, for inferior, £4 to £6 ; good to choice, £6 to £g ; extra, /lo to £12 each. All cattle, sheep, &c., are sold by weight alive, prime oxen realising five cents, young cattle four cents, and hogs five cents. I need not say the carcase costs considerably more than these prices. I have whirled about the country so much lately that when Valparaiso was announced I had to consider whether or not I had crossed the continent, but the town of that name is but of poor importance. It had a pen manufadtory, a woollen mill, and paper works ; but they are of the past, agriculture alone being pursued by the people living there. South Bend is an important place, Oliver's Chilled Plow— that is how they spell it here— giving employment to a considerable popula- tion. There are other industries of importance, notably extensive waggon works. We cross St. Ives, a pretty river running into Lake Michigan. It has an island on it to add to its attradtiveness. We cross the St. Clair river in a novel fashion, the train being taken bodily on to a floating ferry (except the engine). It is a peculiar sensation in a railway carriage with the movement incidental to being afloat. This river is the boundary between the States and the Dominion. The customs officer boards the train, but membership of the British Association keeps our luggage inviolable. A fellow-passenger lost his coat in a clever manner. A darkle took advantage of the absence of the owner, who had left the car at a meal 58 A Visit to Canada in connection with station to take his seat, and laid at repose on the coat, and then arising placed the coat across his arm and walked away. In Toronto 3,000 men are advertised for to work on the C.F.K. in the Rockies, at two dollars per day. In passing through Michigan I was informed the estimated yield of wheat was but 16 bushels per acre. HAMPSHIRE EMIGRANTS. At Toronto, as elsewhere, I met with several Hampshire men. The telegraph clerk, named Joliffe, informed me he was born at Shirley where his father kept a school some years ago ; but, more singular, to-day I was in search of an old Southampton man, Mr. Fred Baker, and on making enquiry of a young man in the street he immediately recognised me, as well he might, as he had formerly been in my service. His name is Arthur Hickley. He is just removing from Montreal to Boston to work out an invention for which he claims special merit — a sodium amalgam for storage batteries and mining purposes. At the cathedral, Toronto, yesterday, I heard a sermon preached by the Rev. Mr. Hague, from the 8th chapter i6th verse in the Epistle to the Romans. I visited the Methodist Church, said to be the finest in America belonging to that body. It stands on three acres of ground, and the schoolroom is being enlarged. It is only separated by a road from the Roman Catholic Church. I also visited the Y.M.C. A. Under the auspices of this Association there are classes for deaf mutes — Italians and Chinese, each of which I had the pleasure of attending, and by the courtesy of Mr. Morse I was permitted to address the two latter, my knowledge of the dumb alphabet not being sufficient to hold converse with the former to any lengthened extent. The Assize Court at Toronto is a good building. I should mention there are 20 Chinese laundrymen in the city ; of these 16 were present. Of Italians there were a dozen in attendance, and of mutes there are nearly 50 in the city, and about 30 were present. The Methodist Church and ground is of the estimated value of 250,000 dollars ; it will seat 2,400. The observance of the Sabbath is very close in Ontario. AH licensed houses are bound to close at 7 p.m. on Satur- days, and remain so until seven on Monday morning. At Montreal I was introduced to Mr. Ryan, colledlor of customs, a gentleman who was a member of Parliament up to the date of his appointment as chief of the Customs. The wharves extend about four miles in length, and there is water enough for the large steamers of the Allan line to lay afloat at all states of the tide, Mr. Ryan confirms the statement of Mr. Ambrose, the chief appraiser of Customs, and of other experienced gentlemen, that the wisest course to i>e pursued by emigrants going to the north-west is for them to hire themselves out at first, even though they may be possessed of capital. This opinion is sound, as it will enable men to gain experience rather than to purchase it. Mr. Ryan has forty years experience of Canada, and Mr. Ambrose has lived there, I believe, nearly thirty. The latter gentleman knows Southampton well, Mr. John Hunt, of Shirley, and Mr. Snelling, of Winchester, being amongst his personal friends. Mr. Hatchette, the appraiser of groceries, courteously explamed to me the' mysteries of grinding sugar and other matters incidental to imposing the excessive duties of about 35 per cent. Mr. Ambrose was particular in his enquiries for the family of the late Richard Andrews, of Southampton. Montreal has been largely built up by the Grand Trunk Railway having made it its centre, and by the erection in its midst of its great engineering and manufacturing works. This establishment gives employment to about 1,300 work- men. The offices and works are situate at Point St. Charles, and by the courtesy of Mr. F. J. Wanklyn, of the mechanical department, I was enabled to see every part in detail. The company possess 710 locomotives, and 770 passenger and 170,500 freight cars. These work the 3,000 miles of the G.T. system. The company, however, have about 1,200 miles of track over which they run. Not only are locomotives of the largest size and most approved type manufactured here, but all the hand tools in use are produced at the works of the company. The only portions imported, and this from the United Kingdom, are tyres, furnace tubes, and boiler plates. Nearly all the heavy machinery is of English make. The spring makers, about a dozen in number, are Sheffield men. An application The British Association Meeting, 1884. S9 having ing and DO work- ourtesy ee every ger and 1. The n. Not actured pmpany. 1^ furnace make, blication for renewing the cut of files was quite novel to me. It is called a sand blast, and by the application of this blast, which takes up sand and water, the sharpness of a worn out file can be renewed two or three times. As a matter of economy 40 per cent, is saved by this ingenious operation. The pay of workmen is : — Boiler makers and smiths, 23 to 23 cents, per hour ; fitters, 16 to 20 cents. ; machine men, 13 to 16 cents. ; labourers, 10 to 12 cents. ; moulders, 16 to 20 cents. This is the pay for a week of 56 hours. If work is busy the men are allowed to work overtime, not exceeding three-eights of full time. At present the supply of the above kind of labour is slightly in excess of the demand, but generally workmen are able to find employment. I have the photo of a shunting tank engine, of a type which Mr. Wanklyn has built ten between January and March this year. They weigh 48J tons fully equipped for work. The heaviest locomotive of this Com- pany weighs 64 English tons when loaded. The company make the whole of the cars, even the Pullman sleeping and dining cars, and these are fine specimens of work. Even the silver mounts are manufactured and electro-plated in the establishment. A space of nearly 60 acres is covered by the works of the company. The engine drivers receive from go dols. to no dols. per month, and firemen 60 dols. to go dols. These men obtain their appointments after passing an examin- ation, and are promoted from cleaners to firemen, and then to drivers. The cars are all carried on trucks, and not as with us all in one rigid body. This affords an elasticity which enables many obstacles to be overcome, especially after break- ing up of the frost, which would prove difficult to those otherwise constructed. The population of Montreal is largely composed of French Canadians, in fact, the governing power is in their hands. So much is this the case that all official notices are published in French, as well as in English. In my reference to agriculture I have almost confined myself to the province of Manitoba, as I consider that to be pre-eminently the area to which emigrants should be directed ; still Ontario is not to be wholly neglected, and I am urged by Dr. Sloan, an eminent medical practitioner of the latter province, to note its claims upon my countrymen. The doctor combines the pursuit of agriculture with the practice of physic, and he gives me the following satisfactory account of his farming operations. He sowed, last autumn, nine acres of land with Democrat wheat — ij bushels to the acre. The land had been in pasture for seven years, and summer fallowed. The actual produce was 413 bushels, or within a slight fraction of forty-six bushels to the acre ; the wheat weighing 62^ lbs. to the bushel. Good improved farms can be purchased at from /lo to /12 per acre in this neighbour- hood, the land having buildings and plenty of timber on it. Apples are grown here of the highest quality, the doctor having no less than 100 barrels of the cele- brated Spies for sale. They realise is. 8d. per bushel, on the trees. The above excellent wheat is selling at 90 cents per bushel for seed. I had the good fortune to meet Dr. Sloan at the meeting of the Medical Association of the Dominion, which is now in session in this city. The doctor raises a few cattle. He has 17 head, three year old, ready for shipment — prime oxen, which he values at /ii each. Sunday was another short day, we having to put our watches forward one hour, having passed ihe meridian observed at Toronto THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION MEETING. Members of the Association are trooping into the city of Montreal, and difficulty is experienced in obtaining accommodation by those who did not make their arrangements beforehand ; for myself, it is impossible to speak too highly of the kindness of my hospitable host, Mr. Fred Cole, who is held in deservedly high respect in the city, whilst his amiable wife could not have done better for me had I been an old friend. Judged by mere numbers, the meeting is larger than many of the gatherings in Great Britain. In all, some 2,000 tickets were issued, the British contingent being largely augmented by associates who joined to reap the advantages offered by our Canadian friends. The first public recognition of the Association came from the civic authorities, an address of welcome being presented by the Mayor to Sir Wm. Thompson, Bart., who, in his unavoidable absence, occupied the place of Professor Cayley, in the Queen's Hall, which was crowded, the strangers 6o A Visit to Canada m connection with naturally beinff anxious to see how these things are managed on this side. The Mayor, who is of French descent, read the address in very good English. The document had the merit of not being too long ; and it was couched in terms of the utmost cordiality, for it is apparent to every one the Canadians feel flattered by the visit, and they desire the people from the " Old Country," as they term it, to return with a favourable impression of the New. Among the local visitors, the first gentleman I recognised was Mr. W. H. Preece, F.R.S., whose eminence as a scientist, and whose contributions, especially to the development of electricity, sheds a lustre on the town in which he resided for so many years. There were in addition, Messrs. A. Bather (Winchester), G. S. Turner (Southampton), Major Bance (Southampton), E. F. Chinery (Lymington), G. E. Dobson (Netley), W. B. Fream (Downton), J. Fewings (Southampton), T. B. Groves (Weymouth), J. Mclntyre (Odiham), Admiral Ommaney (Yarmouth, I.W.), Alfred Pegler (South- ampton), J. H. Rose (Ventnorj, J, C. Sheltaa (Downton), Rev. R. R. Watts (Stour- paine, Dorsetl, W, Whitaker (Southampton), Mrs. G. Chinery (Lymington), Hon. Mrs. Joyce (Winchester), Rev. Jno. Miller (Weymouth), and the Rev. Cecil White (St. Paul's, Southampton). The inaugural proceedings commenced on Tuesday afternoon by the reception of the Association in the Queen's Hall, an elegant building of large dimensions, by the Mayor of the city, who, in the name of the municipality welcomed the members of'^the Association to Montreal. During the assembling of the visitors, national and well-known tunes were played on the fine organ, which is placed in the centre of the orchestra ; the hall, capable of containing about 1,500, was well filled. The mayor's address was accepted and responded to by Sir William Thompson, Bart., in the absence of Professor Cayley, the president of the Associ- ation, after which Sir John Macdonald spoke a word of welcome. Upon the proposition of the mayor, " God save the Queen " was performed, the whole audience joining most heartily in singing the National Anthem. The business proper of the Association commenced at eight o'clock p.m., when the Queen's Hall was crowded. His Excellency the Governor-General and the Marchioness of Lansdowne were present. Sir W. Thompson occupied the chair. His Excel- lency delivered an admirable address of welcome to the Association, and predicted great results to the Dominion from the presence of so many men of the highest reputation in the scieniific world. Sir W. Thompson then gave way for ^he President elect. Lord Rayleigh, who delivered his inaugural address amic* ne profound attention of his crowded audience. A vote of thanks to his Lordship, delivered in French by Honble. P. J. O. Chauveau, and seconded in English by Mr. Hugh McLennan, terminated the proceedings. Hard work began on Thursday — The attendance at the geological and mechanical sections ; at a garden pat >' at Mr. Robertson's beautiful grounds in Dorchester Street in the afternooi; at the general assembly in the Redpath Museum in the evening, at which as many of us who cared for the honour were presented to His Excellency the Governor-General and the Marchioness of Lansdowne, whose natural beauty was almost eclipsed by the blaze of the diamonds which adorned her. Sir F. Bramwell, in delivering his address as president in the mechanical section, was very humorous ; he failed, however, to elicit any sympathy when he deprecated the action of the Home Govern- ment in regard to the Channel Tunnel, and ridiculed the idea of the gre-' English people being unable to defend what he termed a rat-hole. I was, however, in accord with his audience when he spoke of the difiicultit which the government placed in the way of the development of telephonic communication, by considering its operations an infringement of the tele- graphic monopoly, and well he might, when it is considered that in the buildings in which he was speaking each person present was in direct communication by telephone with upwards of 1,000 firms in the city ; for myself, I was speaking to Mr. Burton, whose accident at the Bell Farm I have noted, and who was, at the time, in the General Hospital here. I had visited Mr. Burton on the preceding day, and was glad to hear from the resident surgeon that all symptoms of an un- favourable character had passed away, and that all that was required was perfect rest. The British Associatum Meeting, 1884. «l vever, to Govern - he gre le. I fficultic ephonic he tele- luildings ation by king to , at the receding an un- perfect It will give some idea of the relative proportions of the religious belief of the inhabitants to record the following numbers of patients, which I abstracted from the list in the hall of the hospital :— Episcopalian, 61 ; Presbyterians, 25 ; Metho- dists, 4: Baptists, 3: Lutheran, 4; Roman Catholic, 180: and one member of the ancient faith. One notable act of liberality on the part of the Local Committee should be recorded. On the grounds of the University, tents are erected for the supply of luncheons to members of the Association, in which was to be found the most elegant and substantial provision ; such a menu as leaves nothing to be desired, supplemented by an abundance of ices and choice fruits, for which the nominal charge of 25 cents, was made. Soils were examined from Portage La Prairie, Manitoba. They proved to be about twice as rich in nitrogen as the average of arable soils in Great Britain, perhaps about as rich as the average of the surface soils of permanent pasture, rour other Manitoba soils were examined in greater detail. One was from Niver- ville, 44 miles west of Winnipeg, the second from Brandon, the third from Selkirk, and the fourth from Winnipeg. These soils showed a very high per centage of nitrogen ; that from Niverville nearly twice as high a per centage as in the first six or nine inches of ordinary arable land, and about as high as the surface soil of pasture land in Great Britain ; that from Brandon was not so rich as that from Niverville, still the first twelve inches of depth is as rich as the first six or nine inches of good old arable lands. The soil from Selkirk showed an extremely high per centage of nitrogen in the first twelve inches, and in the second twelve inches as high a per centage as any ordinary pasture surface soils. Lastly, both the first and second nine inches of the soil from Winnipeg were shown to be very rich in nitrogen, richer than the average of old pasture surface soil. This result is very striking and of much interest, affording direct evidence that the nitrogen of subsoils is subject to nitrification if only in suitable condi- tions, and the result lends confirmation to the view that deep-rooted plants favoured nitrification in the lower layers. The public records show that the rich prairie soils of the North-West YIELD LARGE CROPS, but under present conditions they do not yield amounts commensurate with their richness compared with the soils of Great Britain. That the rich prairie soils do not yield more produce than they do is due partly to climate, but largely to scarcity of labour and consequently imperfect cultivation, thus leading to too luxuriant a growth of weeds ; and until mixed agriculture and stock feeding can be had recourse to, and a local demand arises, the burning of the straw, and deficiency and waste of manure, are a more or less inevitable, but still exhaust- ing practice. So long as land is cheap and labour dear, some sacrifice of fertility is inevitable in the process of bringing these virgin soils under profit- able cultivation ; and the only remedy is to be found in increase of population. Still tVif" fact should not be lost sight of, that such practices of early settlement ' ve serious waste of fertility. A table was hung up, showing the compara- laracter of exhausted arable soils of newly laid down pastures, and of old " soils, and also of some old arable soils, of Manitoba prairie soils, and la.- )f some very rich virgin soils. From these results there could be no doubt th£ ihe characteristic of a rich virgin soil, or of a permanent pasture surface soil, is the relatively high per centage of nitrogen and carbon. It is satisfactory to know that Professor Bonney considers the meetings a success, and equal in every respect to those held in the United Kingdom. The citizens of Montreal have proved worthy hosts and entertainers, and the large influx of visitor accord a welco memory of eaf Mr. and Mf be rememberi Montreal ( ment within it •"rom the Old Country was met on every hand by a desire to such as to leave the most agreeable recollections upon the iid all. Personally, I was received by my host and hostess, Cole, and their family, as a friend, and their kindness wtU ever ^' me with great satisfaction. other cities in the Dominion) owes its progress to the establish- if of manufactories for the supply of its population and the 62 A Visit to Canada in connection with surrounding locality. There is an extensive sugar refinery ; also cotton mills, blanket works, lead and shot manufactories, nail works, white lead and paint works, furniture manufactories, marble works, plaster of paris manufactory, rope works, timber and saw mills, an axe manufactory, engine and boiler works, wheel works, a saw manufactory, the steel used in which is from England. One of the most interesting works that I visited is that of the Canada Fibre Company, of which Mr. Cowper is the enterprising manager ; one of their specialities is the manufacture of bed quilts, the pieces of cloth from which these are made being three miles in length. They turn out about 500 daily, worth from 8 dollars to 30 dollars each. The machinery used is of the most perfect type ; one, a combined service of eighteen sewing machines, requires the attendance of four girls and one man, one oi the quickest sewing machines make no less than 2,800 stitches a minute, and sews between 8,000 and 10,000 yards of material daily. The cheapest quilt weighs 6lbs., and costs 66 cents. The lowest wages earned by the girls is 4 dols. per week, but most of them receive i dol. per day. The manu- factories are situate on the side of the Lachine canal. The furniture works of Mr. Thomson display great taste in the production of articles manufactured chiefly of native woods. A bedroom suite in white maple was very simple and elegant in design. Mr. Thomson manufactured the whole of the furniture for the residence of Mr. Stephen, president of the C.P.R. This house is considered the finest in the Dominion. Its total cost, including furnishing, is estimated at 320,00c '^ols. My host drove me, with Mrs. Cole, to the village of Sault aux RecoUets, a distance of eight miles ifrom Montrei 1, to inspect the factories of their eldest son. The drive skirted the mountain, in the immediate neighbourhood of the city, which is the people's park. It attains to considerable elevation, and from it a most comprehensive view of Montreal and its environs is obtained, with the noble St. Lawrence, the Lachine canal, and the range of mountains which form the background to a grand picture. Perhaps no other city is so thickly studded with trees, and these with the numerous ecclesiastical and other public buildings, of which the McGill form a prominent group, combine to form a varied and pleasing Eicture. Sault aux Recollets is wholly French-Canadian and Catholic, with the are exception sufficient to prove the rule. A Roman Catholic church, therefore, is the only place of worship it contains. There is an archiepiscopal residence, and a very large convent of the Sacred Heart, with most extensive gardens and pleasure grounds. The seat of manufacture presents a good specimen of what in days gone by would have been an early settlement. The dwellings are comfort- able but quaint, approached by a flight of steps leading to a verandah the width of the building, the living rooms one storey high. The first industries that are engaged in, a flour mill and saw mill, the latter to utilize the vast amount of lumber that is floated down the stream, and to these a manufacture of later need, a paper mill to supply an article most necessary to line the sides of dwellings wholly built of wood. From the wharf, a substantial structure of hewn timber, a truly American scene, presents itself. An arm of the Ottawa meanders silently along, giving power to the mills, and producing, just above, some tiny rapids. On the left the two gaudy spires of the Romish church, a little below the residence of the archbishop, and st'll lower but close at hand the handsome pile dedicated to the Sacred Heart, and farther on, the graceful outline of an iron bridge spanning the liver, a bluff" of trees of ample size and umbrageous foliage, with an island of suitable dimensions to adorn the whole, complete a scene of natural beauty, while the many rafts of unhewn timber, with tholes of large proportions driven into the logs, and oars of equal size, impart an element unknown to British shores. It may be mentioned that Mme. Albani, the distinguished vocalist, received her education at the convent of the Sacred Heart. The religious census of the Dominion S resents some striking features. In the year 1881, there were in the Dominion — loman Catholic, 1,791,982 ; Presbyterian, 630,386; Methodist, 715,745; Episcopal 577,414 ; Baptist, 275,291 ; Lutheran, 46,350; Church of Scotland, 32,834 ; Bible Christian, 27,236; Congregational, 26,900; Quakers, 6,553; Jews, 2,393; Unitarians, 2,126; not specified, 86,769. It will be seen how largely the Roman Catholics preponderate, but the following will show that this arises from their being so The British Association Meeting, 1884. 63 panning sland of ty, while into the It may ducation ominion ninion — }iscopal Bible itarians, atholics being so largely in a majority in the province of Quebec— Catholic, 1,170,718 ; Episcopal, 68,797 ; Presbyterian, 48,897 ; Methodist, 40,146. The proportions are materially altered when we take the province of Ontario, which are as follow — Methodist, 436,987; Episcopal, 101,505; Primitive, 25,555; Bible Christians, 23,726; other Methodists, 3,730; total, 5^,1,503. Presbyterian, 402,572 ; Scotch ditto, 7,964 ; Reformed ditto, 6,912 ; other, 301 ; total, 417,749. Episcopal, 366,539 ; Reformed ditto, 980; total, 367,519. Catholic, 320,839 ; Baptist, 88,948 ; Congregational, 16,340; and in Manitoba, there are of Episcopal, 14,297; Presbyterian, 13,928; Catholic, 12,246; Methodist, 9,470; so that it will be seen, as soon as the French- Canadian province of Quebec is passed, the Catholics are left in a minority. Shortly before I left England I certified to the free acquiescence of two children, who were sent out to this Dominion by the Guardians of Southampton. To-day I had the opportunity of visiting one of them — Amelia Harris, a bright child of twelve years old. She is in an excellent family, but I fear of not sufficient ex- perience for the place. She is kindly cared for, and receives four dollars per month, say 4s. 2d. per week. Poor child, she so longs to see her brother, ten years of age, whom she left behind, and her eyes glistened when I told her I would see him on my return, and would, if possible, have him sent out later on. I am indebted to a merchant of Montreal for a letter of introduction to the Presi- dent of the American Institute of Mining Engineers. My introducer is the son of a former house steward of the late Lord Palmerston, Mr. John Hughes, who came out 36 years ago. Friday was thoroughly wet, which prevented attention to any matters, except attendance at the various sections. I preferred section A, which was devoted to electricity, telegraphy, and the telephone. The meeting was singularly interesting, presided over by Sir W. Thompson. Professor Lodge read a valuable paper, in which he had the boldness to dispute some of the conclusions of the learned president. This led to a discussion, which was taken part in by several gentle- men of eminence. Mr. Preece gave the result of experiments he had made in the use of the telephone, by which it appeared that although it was possible to trans- mit sound over a very considerable distance, yet the limit at which it was prac- ticable to converse must be confined to within 20 miles, his own experience with regard to the underground wires of the Post Office being that 12 miles was their present extent. On Saturday an excursion to Ottawa was made by 400 members, who were conveyed thither by special train over the Grand Trunk Line For the most part the railway passes through woods that have been burnt to a large extent on either side, the fires being occasioned by sparks from passing engines. In two places the woods were on fire as we passed. At Lachine Farm the Messrs. Dawes are breeders of first-class horses. They send out about eight each year, the prices they realise being from 1,500 dols. to 5,000 dols. each. About 25 miles from Montreal, at Beaconsfield, there is a vinery. It has been in cultivation but a few years, and is said to be satisfactory. The line runs by the St. Lawrence, and at St. Anne the Ottawa debouches into that river. The line crosses the island of Perrot, and this neighbourhood is most charming. It is the summer residence of many of the denizens of Montreal. From the bridge which passes over Perrot Island there is a beautiful view. The river is studded with most picturesque islands on either side of the bridge. Ottawa, as a city, is poor compared to the magnitude and grandeur of its buildings. Being the seat of government for the Dominion, the Houses of Parliament and other official offices are located here. I cannot imagine a more splendid group than the Houses of Parliament, flanked as they are on either side by a block of bu'iding in which all departmental work is transacted. The eminence on which these are placed afford a varied and mag- nificent view. Below is the Kideau Canal, carrying its waters into the Ottawa, which here becomes a sea of sawdust so dense that with every effort a couple of men find it difficult to pull a boat through. All around there is lumber in such stacks as must be seen to be realised. The opposite shore, a craggy, rocky slope, and far beyond, the scene is crowned by the Laurention Hills. To the left, a barren island of flat rock ; and above, the Chaudiere Falls, with a couple of bridges, giving effect to the whole. We are driven to the lumber and manufac- turing works of the firm of £. B. Eddy & Co.. where, notwithstanding the employ- i-VW A Visit to Canada in connection with ment of labour-saving machinery to an immense extent, some 2,000 workmen are engaged. The facility with which the rude unhewn log is taken from the river, and converted into deals or plank, is such as to astonish those unacquainted with the different processes employed. The marvellous rapidity with which the buckets, bearing Messrs. Eddy's familiar name, are made, exceeds belief. The view from the bridge which is crossed to approach these works is peculiar to this country. Lumber here, lumber there, lumber everywhere, enough in quan- tity, as it appears, to supply a world's demand. On the right the Government buildings show to advantage, crowning as they do a lofty height of tree-clad rock ; on the left the grand Fails of the Chaudiere, so grand and continuous as to arrest our thought, were it not for the grander still of Niagara. The two bridges, in graceful outline, fill the picture, and render it complete. Ahead is such a mass of carriages, three abreast, as never before was seen here, bearing the members of the Association to and from the objects of interest. There is an extensive lucifer- match manufactory adjoining. The library in the rear of the Houses of Parliament, but forming a portion of the whole, is quite palatial. In its centre there is a marble statue of Her Majesty, by Marshall Wood, with desks around ; there are other desks with brass furniture and tables for writing, and eight elaborate case£>, two stories high, filled with books ; between these, recesses of books, the wood of which is all pitch-pine, with light iron balustrade at the bottom of the openings. The roof is domed and lighted from an upper dome. There are 110,000 volumes contained in the library. The floor is of inlaid oak, ash, black walnut, and maple. The building is a perfect circle, and is of the most elegant design and proportions. On the eight cases the arms of the Dominion and of the seven provinces are carved, viz., Quebec, Ontario, Manitoba, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and British Columbia. Galleries connect each of the eight cases. It need hardly be said the whole of the wood is of native growth. The library is 100 feet in diameter, and the height to the first dome luo feet, and 35 more to the upper dome, making 135 feet from the floor. It is lighted by gas, the ignition being produced by electricity. There are also marble busts of the Prince and Princess of Wales, Sir W. Logan, the Hon. Sanfield McDonald, and Sir E. P. Tache, by Marshall Wood ; a plaster bust of the Marquis of Lome, by Dunbar, a Canadian artist. The officials are not a little proud of the 22 gold, 16 silver, and three bronze medals awarded to the Dominion Government at the Fisheries Exhibition in 1883. I need hardly say that most of the pulpits in Montreal are occupied by English ministers to-day. I chose the Rev. Professor Craig, of Airdale College, who {>reached in Emanuel Congregational Church in the morning, a powerful sermon rom a passage in the Book of Revelation, ist chapter, gth verse. He pointed out how much more blessed it was for John to be an exile in Patmos than to be living in his beloved city of Ephesus, and how the church and the world had l^nefited by his experience there. Referring to the meetings of the Association, the preacher pointed out that whilst science was not religion, still it was religious, and that men became outwardly what they were inwardly, and with much force said a godless mind finds a world without a god. To reasonable minds the whole world was reasonable, nature becoming its own interpreter. Those possess the spirit in whose heart the spirit of God dwells, and to such the Holy Spirit is a daily need, a heavenly joy. No quarrel can exist between science and religion if each be approached under the Spirit's influence. If in due accord, there is a trinity of the law, the state, and man, which is beautiful to behold. The birth of science is due, said the rev. gentleman, to religion, and instead of casting out Copernicus, Plato, Galileo, Pascal, and other ancient philosophers, he claimed that they had each a ray of divine light which led them into truth, seeing as they did God everywhere and in everything. Emanuel Church is a most commodious and elegant building. The minister, Professor Stephenson, announced the hymns, whilst the father of Congregational ministers in the Dominion, the Rev. Dr. Wilks, was a listener. Mr. Stephenson announced the re-opening of the Sabbath School on the following Sunday. I have mentioned before that many of the schools are closed during the summer, owing to the absence from home both of teachers and Bchoiars. In the afternoon I took a class at St. George's Episcopal Sunday Th* British Association Meeting, 1884. 65 rkmen are I the river, inted with which the ilief. The leculiar to in quan- overnment clad rock ; s to arrest iridges, in I a mass of lembers of ive lucifer- portion of !r Majesty, s furniture filled with -pine, with Lnd lighted rary. The a perfect t cases the ., Quebec, sland, and hardly be 1 diameter, naking 135 electricity. W. Logan, a plaster iicials are warded to ul >y English ege, who sermon pointed tmos than and the ngs of the >n, still it and with )le minds Those the Holy ience and accord, lold. The of casting ie claimed : as they imodious e hymns, Dr. Wilks, th School hools are hers and Sunday le i school ; there were 263 present, their usual number being 600, with 40 teachers , The schoolroom is remarkably good. In the evening I attended St. George's Church, not, however, to edification. The Rev. Dr. Campion, of Queen's College, Cambridge, preached, from Philippians iii. ix one of the most doleful sermons I ever heard. After Saturday's recreation, the various sedlions resumed work on Monday. The principal interest centred in section G, where Mr. W. H. Preece read three papers ; the last, on domestic electric lighting, being full of instruction. Mr. Preece entered into details as to lighting his own house with electricity, not only by means of fixed lamps, but the facility with which he was able to carry the light in his hand from room to room, and he elicited hearty applause when describ- ing how he illuminated the doll's house of his daughter, and, producing one of the fairy lamps, he ignited it, to the great delight of his audience ; and, further, in mentioning the sensation he caused at the opera at Vienna by wearing as a breast pin a small electric light, and placing the identical lamp in his scarf a blaze appeared, before which the brilliancy of a diamond of the first water would pale, he raised the enthusiasm to such a pitch as is rarely witnessed amongst the savants. In the evening the Rev. Cecil White, vicar of St. Paul's, Southampton, held a reception as Grand Past-Master of Oddfellows at St. Charles's Point. The rev. gentleman was greeted most warmly by the members of the four Lodges in the City, and after an address, in which they were much interested, each member was presented to him, and received the right hand of fraternal greeting. Mr. White also prepared a paper on friendly societies, for one of the sections of the British Association, which, I trust he will place in the hands of local readers. Thursday was a ladies' day. The appearance for a brief period of Lieut. Greely, the eminent American Arctic Explorer, was greeted with much enthusiasm, and in Section F, Miss Rye, Miss Belborough, Mrs. Burt, the Hon. Mrs. Joyce (of Win- chester), and Mrs. Hallett (of Bath), read interesting papers on child and female emigration. In the afternoon the fire brigade had a grand parade. The force con- sists of three steam engines (one American and two English), one American Are escape, four sets of ladder apparatus, and twelve hose reels ; the latter carrying about 500 feet of hose, and are mainly relied upon for the extinguishing of fires, the pressure from the mains being sufficient to throw water over the highest building m the city ; the brigade consists of 70 men. Later on, the truly Indian game of La Crosse was played between 11 members of the Montreal Club and II Indians; the latter were attired in civilised dress, but apparently of their own manufacture, some wearing velvet breeches, others belts, ornamented in their peculiar style. In this, their own game, the Indians were overpowered by the City Club, civilisation and intelligence telling in this as in everything else ; there is at times a great deal of very hard running, but the white man proved as fleet of foot as was his dusky opponent. White Eagle, who competed in England, showed excellent play as goal keeper, but the Montreal Club proved victorious throughout. Each game lasted about ten minutes, and some were even shorter. In the evening there was a grand reception given by the Citizens' Committee to the members of the Association. It was held in the Skating Rink, a grand building, 224 feet long, by loo feet wide, with an open arched roof, having gal- leries round three of its sides. A full band was stationed in the centre of the building, and whilst upwards of 2,000 guests promenaded the room, there yet was ample space for scores of couples to enjoy the merry dance, and disport them- selves in waltz and polka. I regretted to see in this new country the follies of the old, in regard to ladies' dress, trains that were in the way of everyone, and inter- fered sadly with the comfort of others, not to say of those who wore them ; and two instances, at least, of ladies attired in what they styled the reform dress, but which, if reform, certainly is not womanly. Although the invitation stated even- ing dress was not imperative, still there were but few gentlemen present other than in claw hammer coats, as that most unbecoming garment is styled on this continent. Lieut. Greely, and Mrs. Greely, and Lieut. Ray, were present at the reception. Wednesday, the closing day, is something like the closing day at school, but little regular work, and sections sparsely attended. Congis were the order of the day, 66 A Visit to Canada in connection with and of the night, too, a large number of the members preparing for their exit from the city, many intending to start for Philadelphia by special train at 8 a.m. the following day, amongst whom I may be numbered. On Tuesday a paper was read by Dr. Gilbert, which he had prepared, jointly with Sir John Lawes, on the composition of soils in Manitoba and the prairies, and I am gratified to find that the observations I had personally made are so fully borne out. It will be observed that Selkirk was the district I mentioned as the only fertile spot east of Winnipeg, and that I called attention to the poorness of some of the soil near Brandon. The invitation I accepted for Monday was from the directors of the Zoological Society of Philadelphia, who invited the members and guests of the American Association for the Advancement of Science to visit their Garden to witness the experiments of Mr. Eadweard Muybridge, who is engaged in photo- graphing animals in motion, for the University of Pennsylvania. Twelve cameras were placed in line, and connected by means of clock-work with an electrical apparatus. At a given signal a bird is flown across in front of the cameras, and by the action of the clock-work an infinitessimal interval is created, so that a distinct picture is taken by each camera of that part of the bird exposed to it. The separate photos are crude and shapeless, but when placed in line and subjected to rotary motion the perfect bird is represented flying most naturally. The International Electrical Exhibition is worthy of interest. Every con- ceivable application of electricity is developed in the most perfect manner ; not the least singular feature is the production of gas by this most potent power. I mentioned the superintendent of the Sunday school I visited as bemg in an extensive way of business ; until I visited the establishment I had no idea of its extent. It covers an area of about eight acres, and has floor room of twenty-one acres. At the present dull time there are about 2,700 persons employed, and in the winter, when in full operation, it takes no less than 5,000 to operate the vast concern. This immense undertaking is the creation of Mr. Wanamaker, to whose energies it owes its origin and development. The capital employed is estimated at about 3,000,000 dollars. The stocks of goods in Philadelphia are enormous. I know an optician who holds 50,000 dollars value in opera and field glasses and telescopes, and the immense amount of 20,000 dollars in crystals alone for mounting as spectacles. I was tempted to purchase some ingeniously con- structed hand spectacles from this firm, by the assistance of which these lines are being written. AMERICAN HEAT IN SEPTEMBER. Wednesday, loth Sept. — Heat continues unbearable ; the citizens ihemselves say they never knew the heat more intense, and seldom remember it being so hot. I cannot eat ; I can do nothing. I wish myself in my native land, and should greatly prefer its much-abused climate to the sweltering heat which oppresses me. The heat is a great provocative of thirst, and the quantity of iced water we consume would exceed belief in England. It is supplied with every meal, in addition to tea, coffee, &c. In many houses mechanical fans are placed on the table; they produce a draught, and drive the flies away. I have seen no mosquitoes since I left the North-West. Their favourite hunting ground in that district appeared to be the nape of my neck, and they succeeded in making that part of my person resemble the Rockies in miniature ; however, beyond the appearance, I did not suffer from their bite. Philadelphia abounds in objects of interest, in connection with the earliest days of the independence of the country. In Chestnut-street stands Inde- pendence Hall, on which is inscribed " In this building sat the first Senate and the first House of Representatives of the United States of America. Herein George Washington was inaugurated President, March 4th, 1793, and closed his official career when herein ; also John Adams was inaugurated second President of the United States, March 4th, 1797. " Independence Hall forms one end of the law courts so soon to give place to the grand Palace of Justice, now in course of building. At the other end is inscribed "City Hall, 1791. In this building met the first Supreme Court of the United States, presided over by Chief Justices John Day, John Rutledge, and Oliver EUswork." Whither shall I go ? I had exit from • a.m. the aper was :s, on the find that I observed Vinnipeg, don. s of the sts of the liarden to in photo- 3 cameras electrical leras, and so that a osed to it. line and turally. ivery con- nner ; not power. I ing in an idea of its wenty-one id, and in te the vast maker, to fiployed is elphia are 1 and field itals alone )usly Con- ines are lemselves ng so hot. nd should resses me. water we meal, in ed on the seen no id in that iking that yond the e earliest ids Inde- nate and Herein Insed his President ne end of in course building f Justices ~ I had The British Association Meeting, 1884. 67 ? intended visiting Washington, but that is farther south. I am undecided whether or not to make for Quebec, and sail away home on Saturday ; but I am within a four-dollar ride of the American capital ! I seek advice, hoping to be urged to return home at once ; but it is no use. Mr. Preece suggests it might not be hotter at Washington ; and so I book for that city. THE POLITICAL CAMPAIGN. I believe I mentioned that I was a guest at the Palmer House in Chicago, the head-quarters of the Democratic party, where a few days before Cleveland had been nominated for the presidency. Since leaving Chicago my lot seems to have been cast with the Republicans, and certainly in Philadelphia that party appeared to be in a great majority. Here I am in the centre of the Democrats, for not- withstanding this city is the seat of government, and all the officials are with the Republicans, the Democrats hold sway over a large portion of the non-official population. On Thursday, the nth September, a great meeting of the party was announced to ratify Cleveland's nomination, and a grand demonstration they made. Securing a platform ticket, I was close to the speakers at the meeting held at the City Hall. E:.ch district of the city organised itself, and marched in procession to the central position. The night was cool and refreshing, tempting an immense concourse to line the streets and to congregate in the neighbourhood of the Hall. The districts were marshalled alike, headed by a body of mounted police ; then Democrats on horseback, these largely composed of the surviving members of the Virginia Black Horse Cavalry, who had sustained many a hard- fought battle during the war, and who came over from Virginia to swell the numbers of Cleveland's supporters ; in the rear of the horsemen came a band, ani then such a number of torchbearers as I never witnessed, aggregating 2,000 in all. The sections marched in perfect order, and the torchlights, mingling with the immense crowd, produced a wonderful effect. There were two platforms in addition to the one in front of the City Hall, and when I left at 11 o'clock speaking was being continued from each. One orator was an ex-officer in the rebel army, and obtained notoriety by crossing over into Maryland and burning the Governor's house, and making good his retreat to General Lee's army. Throughout the whole proceedings, and during the speeches, fireworks were blazing away in every direction, and immense displays of coloured fires were made at frequent intervals. The crowds were perfectly orderly, and less demonstrative than those at home. I omitted to mention that a cookery book exists at Mount Vernon formerly belonging to Frances Dandridge, Washington's mother ; it bears her name, and the date 1756. I had a leaf off a magnolia given me, the tree having been planted by Washington. In front of the Civic Hall is a marble statue to Lincoln, standing on a high column. THE EXPERIENCE OF A KENTUCKIAN IN PHILADELPHIA. I met to-day a man who was raised in Kentucky, and has lived there all his life. He is sixty-five, and, as he says, has remained an old " bat " whilst his brother married, and raised eight mighty bad children. His bachelorhood enabled him to amass a large number of dollars. Not having seen his kinsman for 25 years, he concluded with his friend Jones to convey a couple of trucks of fat cattle to Philadelphia, and so kill two birds with one stone— sell his beeves, and pay a fraternal visit. For the cattle he realised 5f cents, per lb. on the hoof, which means living weight. He found his nephews very bad, but when he and Jones were prevailed upon to enter a saloon, whither they had been attracted by the sounds of music, he did not wonder that the boys had succumbed to the syren influences which beset him. " Why, stranger, you would hardly believe it, but they set upon an old one like me. " " Stand a drink ! " why, of course, no one from old Kentuck ever ran away from a treat or a drink. Order what you please ; and so a bottle, covered with silver like, was brought, by a gal. " Open that, " says she, and handing me an instrument, I soon cut the wire, and off it went, and I never before saw so large a cork come out of so small a hole. They had small glasses and Ice, but nary a drop of the liquor went in. I ordered another, and told the gal to open it, which she did, and poured it into the glasses. " Drink, " says she. 1^ ISP I 68 A Visii to Canada in connection with "Not if I know it, " says I ; "I should be sorry for any of that fizzling stuff to go play- ing around in my inside. " What did I pay ? Five dollars a bottle. They called it pain, I believe I I was going off when three men came around, peddling watches and jewellery, Says one, " Put down five dollars, and if you can pick the right card you can take the choice of watches and jewellery. " And so I did, and got cleaned out of 300 dollars, and had nary a cent.'s worth. I did not mind the money ; only Jones he laughed. Says I, " What do you laugh at ? " " Because, " says he, " you could not pick the card. I could. " Says I, " Try; " and so he did, but got cleaned out of 400 dollars ; so he laughed no more. The Yankee then thought of the inner man, and said " Never mind, boss, give me some oysters." How would you like em fixed?" "Stewed," replied the old man. Asked the waiter "In liquor?" "What! I never heard of that in Kentuck. Bring the liquor separate." "Oh!" replied the waiter, "I meant the oysters stewed in their own liquor. " " That's correct, " said the old Kentuckian ; and I left before he had lost the remembrance of his loss in the solace afforded by his favourite dish. Two new industries were developed in Atlantic City, the first by a man who, standing outside the arrival platform, vociferated " I will buy return tickets; I will buy excursion tickets to Philadelphia, " a proceeding which in England would be contrary to law ; the other, more legitimate, the newsboys offering to exchange papers, taking those read in the journey down in part payment for others. Great attention is paid in the Quaker city to fire escapes, many hotels and other buildings having permanent escapes built outside the walls, affording a safe descent to the ground below. They are constructed of iron of suitable width, with landing stages, hand-rails on both sides, &c. Referring to the incident of Capt. Pim's former visit to Atlantic city, I may mention that on his reaching that place yesterday he was accosted by Mr. Lewis Evans, who recognised the gallant captain in connection with the wreck of the steamer. It appears that the passengers were mostly Californian miners, and to preserve order and to afford the ladies a chance of escape, Capt. Pim stood on the sponson of the vessel with his revolver in hand, and declared that no man should leave except with a bullet through his body. The newspapers are very sensational here. The contents bill of the Times is headed thus. " Sullivan to hang ; he confesses and describes the murder of pretty Ella Watson. Great excitement in Salem last night, but no probability of lynching. " The forthcoming Presidential election excites great interest here, the people being largely Republican. Banners stretched across the streets, of large dimensions and elegant designs, with scrolls containing life-size medallions of the candidates, and suitable mottoes, whilst the streets are paraded at night by youths regularly equipped in uniform, with arms and drums, ready to do battle for their favourite candidates. Accidental insur- ance is more favourable to the assurer than at home ; for 12 dollars annually you may secure 25 dollars weekly, or 5,000 dollars in case of fatal accident. So thoroughly is every part of the city and suburbs served by street cars that no cabs or other vehicles ply for hire; these can only be engaged at the railway stations, or at the offices of their owners ; you cannot even engage one that is returning empty from its destination. More show is made with regard to death than might be expected in the Quaker City. Where there is a death, not only are the blinds drawn, but the doors or windows are draped in black. On Sunday, wishing to add to my varied experience, I worshipped in a church devoted to coloured people, and by desire said a few words to the congregation. An earnest sermon was preached from the words "Choose ye this day whom ye will serve ; as for me and my house we will serve the Lord. " I evoked from the assembly the expression that they had no prejudice in regard to the white race ; in fact, they were hailed as men and brethren by them. In the afternoon I attended the Bethany Sunday school in connection with the Presbyterian Church. It is considered to be the best in the United States. It will accommodate 3,000. There are 2,400 scholars, with 120 officers and teachers on the register. The room is admirably adapted for its purpose. On a large platform are an American organ, a cornet, piccolo, and three violins, the choir being led by a professor of music, the superintendent, Mr. Wannamaker, being one of the most prominent citizens ; behind the choir is the pastor's class ; and on either side of the room are Th6 British Association Meeting, 1884. 69 earnest 1 serve ; issembly in fact, ded the . It is te 3,000. mr. The the male and female infant classes. The floor, which rises towards the rear, is used for classes. A spacious gallery runs round the building, with a higher tier above. There is a large fountain, in the centre of the room, and a visitors' gallery, largely attended. The service being so beautiful and unique I reproduce it : — Choral and Scripture Service to be used at the Opening Worship 0/ Bethany Sabbath School, Philadelphia, 1884. Boyi : Honor thy father, mother too, To them be dutiful and true. Thou shalt not kill, but rather love. This is God's message from above. Full Chorus. 3.23 — Fifit Signal— Ave minutes to prepare for opening of school. Organ, Cornet, Violin, and Flute Recitals by the Boys' Volunteer Orchestra, led by Professors Ewing and Bastert. t.yy—Bell No. i.— Doors close. Bell No. 3.— Perfect silence (no one to move). Invocation— Great is the Lord, Who ruleth over all ! Wake, wake, and sing, wake, wake, and sing Down at His feet in adoration fall, Praise and magnify our King. Chorus. O ye redeemed above. Strike, strike your harps of, love, Hail the Blessed One, hail the Mighty One. Sweetly His wonders tell. Loudly His glory swell, Praise and magnify our King. Silent Prayer. Tenor and Alto Voices:— Beautiful day, season of rest. Every one comes to be blest. Glory to God, naught can dismay, Christ is the Joy of this beautiful day. Beautiful, beautiful day. Evermore shine on my way. Saviour, I pray, keep me alway. True to this hallowed day. Superintendent. — Know therefore this day, and consider it in thine heart, that the Lord He is God in Heaven above, and upon the earth beneath: there is none else.— Deut. 4th, 39. Topic 0/ ) The Our Worship. ) Commandment. Associate Superintendent,— And Moses called all Israel, and said unto them. Hear, O Israel, the statutes and judgments which I speak in your ears this day, that ye may learn them, and keep, and do them.— Deut. jth, i. Choir : Thou shalt not have— so says the Lord- Before me any other God, Thou shalt not make, nor worship one. Save the Almighty God alone. Full Chorus : Ten Commandments, all divine, Ev'ry one of them are mine ; Ev'ry one, the whole complete, Ev'ry one for me to keep. Girls : Thou shalt not take the hallowed name Of God upon the lips in vain ; Remember always, and obey To holy keep tna Sabbath day. VvLL Chorus. Pastor's Class and Heralds of the Cross. Adultery do not commit, For has not God forbidden it ? Thou shalt not steal, nor make too free With what does not belong to thee. Full Chorus. Choir: False witness thou must never bear. The word of God does so declare. Thou shalt not covet, 'tis a wrong. What to thy neighbour may belong. Full Chorus. Pastor.— Ye shall walk in all the ways which the Lord your God hath commanded you, that ye may live, and that it may be well with you, and that ye may prolong your days in the land which ye shall possess (Deut. 5: 33). Teacher.— Ye have said, • It is vain to serve God ; and what profit is it that we have kept His ordinance, and that we have walked . . . before the Lord of Hosts (Slaiachi 3 : 14.) Girls.— And they shall be mine, saith the Lord of Hosts, in that day when I make up My jewels, and I will spare them, as a man spareth his own son that serveth him (Malachi 3 : 17). Bfliys.— Then shall ye . . . discern be- tween the righteous and the wicked, between him that serveth God and him that serveth Him not (Malachi 3: 18). Primary School.— 1 thought on my ways, and turned my feet unto Thy testimonies. (Psa. 119: 39.) Infant School.— Suffer little children to come unto Me, Let the children come, let the children come, For of such the kingdom of heaven shall be. Let the children come, let the children come. Chorus : Blessed words ot Jesus, blessed words of Jesus, Blessed words of Jesus, let the little child- ren come. He the lambs will gather and fold in His arms. Let the children come, let the children come. Safe from every danger and free from alarms. Let the children come, let the children come. Entire School rise and repeat Chorus. Blessed words of Jesus, &c. wHfr 70 A Visit to Canada in connection with The ApoitUs' Creed. The Lord'i Prayer. Superintendent.— VJhereyfiihal shall a young man cleanse his way ? Scholars.— By taking heed thereto according to thy word.— (Psa. 119: 9.) Holding up the Bibles. Scholars and Teachers give Title of the day's Lesson, Teachers give Golden Text of the day. Tell the Book, Chapter, and Verses. While finding the place, sing " Light after darkness. " Sheaves after sowing, Sun after rain. Sight after mystery, Peace after pain, Joy after sorrow. Calm after blast. Rest after weariness. Sweet rest at last. Li^ht after darkness. Gam after loss, Strength after weak- ness. Crown after cross. Sweet after bitter. Song after sigh, Home after wander- ing, Praise after cry. As the last verse is begun to be sung, at tap of bell, the school will rise, and with books open be ready to read the Scriptures, and when last verse is read, close Dooks, and hold them in hands, and sing. All,— Glorv be to the Father, glory be to the Son, glory be to the Holy Ghost. Girls.— As it was in the beginning, is now, and ever shall be, i4//.— World without end. Amen. Amen. Sentence Prayer following Superintendent. The Worship of making Offerings to the Lord, and the Scripture verses of Ex- hortation. Quartette or Choir,—" Cast thy bread upon the waters, " or My Father is rich in houses and lands, He holdeth the wealth of the world in His hands I Of rubies and diamonds, of silver and gold, His coffers are full. He has riches untold. Entire School : Refrain. I'm the child of a King, the child of a King, With Jesus my Saviour, I'm the child of a King. My Father's own Son, the Saviour of men ? Once wander'd on earth as the poorest of men. But now He is reigning for ever on high, And will give us a home in the sweet by and bye. Ref. Last Bell, when School rises and stands re- verently for the Superintendent's one minute prayer at parting. Choir sings while School retires. In the Senate House the table, bearing date 1776, and chair of the President remain, and chairs are set around for the delegates to Congress. The walls are covered with portraits of the great and worthy men who founded the indepen- dence of the country — Washington and Adams, the two first presidents ; Benjamin Franklin ; Henry Lee — is our worthy member a descendant of his ? an ancient Artemus Ward, and a crowd of men, each of whom is held in deserved honour by the citizens of the Commonwealth. There is an engraving of the men who with their lives in their hands dared to sign the Declaration of Independence. In an adjoining room are the remains of a triumphal arch under which Washington passed on the 21st of April, 1789. Over the entrance to this room are the dates 1682-1787. The Liberty Bell is suspended from a beam, and hangs over the hall. In the room is the frame and yoke whereon hung the Bell when, on Monday, July 8th, 1776, at noon, it was rung, obedient to its motto — " Proclaim liberty throughout all the land, unto all the inhabitants thereof. Lev. 25. 10." Glass cases all around contain objects of peculiar and historic interest — captures from the British, a brewing jar brought over by William Penn in the Welcome, Aug. 27th, 1782 ; the table on which George Mason wrote the bill of rights of Virginia ; autograph letters by most of the early patriots ; portraits in rich profusion, includ- ing a very fine one of Penn, also of Geo. 3rd, whose obduracy caused all the trouble and the loss of the colonies to England ; a grand picture by West, repre- senting Penn's treaty with the Indians ; the original charter granted to Phila- delphia in 1707 ; autographs of the signers of the Constitution of the United States, 1767 ; the first copy of Declaration of Independence, July ist, 1776 ; Washington's masonic apron ; old dresses of the period of the revolution ; spinning jennies, with the flax remaining on some of them ; the epaulettes of General La Fayette, of whom there is a grand portrait ; an inscription records " The State House of Penn, consecrated by the memories of the events that occurred within and under the shadow of its walls, is dedicated by the city of Philadelphia to their fellow countrymen of the United States, a perpetual monument to the founder of the American Independence on the natural centenary, July 4th, 1876." There are some public grounds in the rear of the buildings. I think Philadelphia might be designated the marble city, that beautiful material being largely used m Ths British Association Meeting, 1884. 71 Ref. ancient onour by who with In an ishington le dates the hall. VIonday, liberty Glass res from ne, Aug. Virginia ; , includ- all the t, repre- Phila- United t, 1776; spinning General The xzcurred delphia t to the . 1876." .delphia used in the buildings. I have mentioned the style of a marble private house, but stores and other buildings are largely composed of white marble, notably a carpet store, dry goods stores, and a coach factory, all in Chestnut Street. Where, however, the most gorgeous frontage for business premises is to be found is that of Darlington and Co., the whole building being covered with elaborate architecture, such as might be expected to be found inside a ducal mansion. The height and depth of the stores is beyond anything I know of at home. Some of the marble fronts have arched entrances from 25ft. to 30ft. high and the stores run through the entire block to the street in the rear. For instance, Messrs. Queen, the opticians, have a depth of 275ft., and this is by no means an exception. The stocks are immense in proportion, the retail assortment being fully as large as any of our own wholesale establishments. Prices, however, are very high. The system of protection increases the cost of everything all round. I should except grapes. These, in lolb. baskets, are sold for 50 cents., beautiful for size and flavour. As to the peaches, I have not seen a perfectly ripe one in the country. The passage of railway trains, not only across streets, but through them, appear fraught with great danger. At Atlantic City the train not only runs through the main street, but actually stops to set down passengers, like a street car. This is under an agreement with the owners of property on either side of the street, who purchased their lots from the railway company, they covenanting to set down passengers as described. The police of this city are the finest body of men I have seen, tall and muscular, fine specimens of the genus homo, and notwihstanding the extreme heat, they are buttoned up in cloth uniform. BOUND TO WASHINGTON. The draught in the train produced by its motion is refreshing, and as we run alongside the Delaware for many miles, and cross it three times, the choice is justified by the exhilarating breeze that is wafted into the car. Washington has not the appearance of commercial progress which has marked other cities I have visited on this great continent. Being the seat of Government, it possesses advantages that must make it a city of importance. The population is 200,000. It has an educational establishment of great value, the gift of an Englishman, and is named the Smithsonian Institute, after its donor. Mount Vernon, the former residence and place of sepulture of Washington, claims the first attention of the visitor. It is reached by steamer, and is 16 miles below Washington, on the banks of the Potomac. As the steamer approaches the sacred spot, a knell is tolled on board in reverent memory of the father of his country. The approach to the Mount is not picturesque, though the run down the river is very beautiful. The city of Alexandria is passed ; interest centres in it from the fact that it was therein that Washington attended public worship, and it is singular that General Lee, of the Confederate Army, also worshipped there. The church is built of English bricks, the pews of the two generals being almost adjoining each other. The former residence of Lee, which is very near to the city of Washington, is now used as a military cemetery. It was confiscated at the close of the war, but subsequently the Government paid its full value to the heirs of the General. Fort Washington is passed en route to Mount Vernon ; it is quite obsolete for defensive purposes. On landing, the first object that is seen is a row of willow trees from the grave of the First Napoleon. The house is just what might be imagined — a quiet, plain residence of the period. All the rooms can be seen, and most of them entered. In one is an autograph letter of Washington's, written to Col. Dayton, dated June 30th, 1781, ordering him to hasten up the troops immediately, as operations of the campagn were commencing. The out-buildings and gardens were in unison with the style and character of the dwelling. The tomb is a plain brick building, having two iron gates in front. The remains of the renowned hero are contained in a marble sarcophagus presented by a citizen of Philadelphia in 1837, in which year the body was removed from its original tomb, a few yards distant, a removal for which no sufficient reason can be adduced. A plain marble tablet records the fact that " Within this enclosure rest the remains of General Washington." On another is the text from John iitb, 52th and 26th^" Jesus said unto her I am the Resurrection and the Life ; w 72 A Visit to Canada in connection with he that believeth in Me, though he were dead yet shall he live, and whosoever believeth in Me shall never die : believeth thou this ?" In one comer of this tablet a bird has built its nest. On the sarcophagus is simply the name of the great man. By its side is a plainer sarcophagus, in which rest the remains of his wife, bearing the record " Martha, consort of Washington." Outside are simple graves of four other members of the family, and in the grounds, enclosed by a plain fence, is the grave of a faithful servant. Mount Vernon is not the property of the Government. It was purchased some years ago by the ladies of the country, each State having a lady as its representative ; a fee of 34 cents is charged for admission to the grounds. I was shown the head of an axe, stated to be the one used by Washington in cutting down the cherry tree, the incident connected with which is cited to prove the truthfulness for which he was famed when a youth. A hook attached to a piece of a locust tree is the veritable one over which the general threw his bridle when he made his horse fast. Across the Potomac is the State of Virginia, which suffered so greatly during the war ; it has not yet recovered from the terrible struggle. Land can be bought of the finest quality at five dollars to ten dollars and fifteen dollars per acre— land capable of growing almost anything. I met an old slaveholder, a gentle, kind man, who never regretted the emancipation of his slaves, but thought it hard that he received no compensation, as at the time they were selling for 1,200 dollars to 1,500 dollars each. He had a son in the rebel cavalry, though he was a Federalist himself ; the poor fellow succumbed to the hardships he endured. The old gentleman told me now terribly distracted the people were, some families he knew fighting against each other, father against son, and brother against brother ; and at times when a rebel son came home a guard had to be set, lest another son belonging to the other camp should also return. He spoke kindly of his slaves. "Wo were brought up as children together," said he. I also met one of Lincoln's body-guard ; he was one of a hundred cavalry whose duty it was tQ protect the person of the President. A monument is being erected in memory of Washington in the city, which, when completed, will be 550 feet high. THE CAPITOL. It is needless to attempt to describe this great work ; it is familiar to everyone as it was to myself, and when it first came in sight I recognised an old familiar object. Approaching it from Pennsylvanian Avenue, the great civic thoroughfare, I came upon a magnificent monument, designed and executed in Italy in statuary marble, and erected to the memory of the officers, soldiers, and seamen who fell in the civil war. The Capitol is approached within the enclosure by a paved walk 40 feet wide, and at the entrance to the building is a bronze statue of Chief Justice Marshall, by Story, r.a., and on either side is a panel wrought in the purest marble and the highest style of art, allegorical of Minerva instructing Young America in freedom. The floor of the dome is 100 feet diameter. It is enriched with the following historic paintings: — Discovery of the Mississippi, 1541; Baptism of Pocahontas, 1613; Declaration of Independence, July 4th, 1776; Surrender of Burgoyne, 1777, to whose relief the grandfather of Admiral Ommanney was sent ; Landing of Columbus, 1492 ; Embarkation of Pilgrims from Holland, 1620 ; Surrender of Cornwallis, 1781 ; Washington resigning his com- mission to Congress, 1783. There are numerous statues around the building. The library is a noble structure, supported by staladtite columns, and containing many fine marble statues, notably one to Washington, " Eredted by the Common- wealth of Virginia in the year of Christ 1788." On the first landing is a grand fresco of enormous size, "Westward the course of empire takes its way." The House of Representatives has 320 members, being one for every 240,000 inhabitants ; the chamber is spacious, but not lofty. The Senate has 72 members, two for each of the 36 States ; and the Supreme Court is a semicircular room. It has a pi(5ture in the centre, painted by Mrs. Fassett, representing the Eleftoral Com- mission appointed to decide upon the eledion between Tilden and Hayes, in 1876. The original Capitol was built of stone, the dome being of iron. In 1851 wings were added, built of^ white marble. The treasury is a noble building. It is heavily draped in memory of Mr. Secretary Foulger. who died about 10 day* since. The The British Association Meeting, 1884. 7$ n 1876. White House, the abode of the President, is a beautiful building, and contains admirable portraits of the following Presidents : — Washington, Van Buren, Quincy Adams, Tyler, Pierce, Fillimore, Jackson (old Hickory, as he was called), Buchanan, Grant, Polk, Arthur, Lincoln, and Garfield Although President Hayes is not represented, his wife is, her portrait having been presented by the temperance ladies in recognition of her having banished all intoxicants from the White House during the Presidency of her husband. The offices of state, war, and navy are concentrated in one magnificent building, which is being greatly enlarged. In the library are two documents of the greatest interest— the originu draft of the Declaration of Independence, with alterations and interlineations in the handwriting of Jefferson, and, more precious still, the Declaration of Independence itself, with, of course, the signatures of Washington and the other men who subscribed their names thereto. The heading is very clear, and runs thus, " In Congress, July 4th, 1770. The unanimous Declaration of the thirteen United States of America." It would be most difficult to decipher the body of the document, or the names of the signatories, but there it stands, the bold declaration of a nation's separate existence, an adt fraught with the greatest blessings, not only for America, but to the world at large. There are also in the library Washington's sword, Franklin's . staff, Andrew Jackson's sword, Jefferson's desk, possibly the one on which he drafted the Declaration. The room of the Secretary of the Navy is a very fine apartment. Mr. Joseph Libby, an eminent lumber merchant of the city, introduced me to the National Buildings, and drove me through the city, enabling me to form an adequate idea of its proportions and beauty. We also went together to the National Museum, where I not only recognised many designs which were exhibited in our own Fisheries last year, but I made the acquaintance of Mr. J. W. Hendley, whose artistic taste designed and modelled those life-like figures which were the admiration of all who saw them. I visited the studio of Mr. Hendley, and there saw some wonderful casts of fruit, vegetables, fish, meat — yes, rump steaks, and a side of mutton ; but best of all, a negro fisherman, who had fallen asleep after his toils, the fish lying at his feet, his pipe in his hand, and himself as placid as if in sleep. There was also a young Indian, the son of Red Cloud, a well-known Sioux chief. These were life-size and modelled from nature. The head of Spotted Tail, another Indian, was beautifully executed. " Music hath charms to sooth the savage breast, " and so Mr. Hendley found, for when the young Indian was not amenable to any other influence, the soft cadence pro- duced by his playing on the violin, in which he excels, was sufficient to bring the model into natural form and expression. Base-ball takes the place of cricket in this country, and is pursued as a pro- fession by those who are skilful players. There is a regular organisation of placers, and they are run as any other industry, and shares are subscribed for and dividends paid on the investment. The League has eight clubs, the American Association twelve, and the Union eight, each composed of nine men. The players are of all classes — university men and others. They receive, according to their skill, from 1,200 dols. to 5,000 dels, each per annum. I witnessed a game played between the Pittsburg Union and the Washington Nationals, in which the home team proved the stronger. The play is similar to the rounders of my youth, only that it is much more severe. The player who serves throws the ball |which is made as hard as possible and is less in size than a cricket ball) as hara as he possibly can, the defender having a club similar to a policeman's staff, but longer. The man who acts in a similar manner to a wicket keeper, and the umpire, stand behind him ; each wears a stout wire guard over his face, and one of them has a guard like an apron. The skill is very great, especially in catching the ball, there being scarcely a miss throughout the game. When a point was made, the audience yelled, and shrieked, and barked like dogs ; they were far more excited and demonstrative than at the election meeting on the previous night. Dr. Bessey, practitioner of medicine in Montreal, like other gentlemen of his Erofession, devotes himself to the pursuit of agriculture ; but, unlike the two I ave before mentioned, he cultivates in the lower province of Quebec, mid-way between Montreal and Ottawa, about 60 miles from either city. Until ten years i 74 A Visit to Canada in connection with >f since this district was a Government timber reserve, since which period the land has been surveyed for location. Dr. Bessey, taking advantage of the altered cir- cumstances, about five years since, purchased 200 acres for 75 dols. Shortly after he bought another 200 acres for 100 dols. : later on the doctor gave 600 dols. for 600 acres of selected land, and in the spring of this year he added 218 acres for 182 dols. This purchase consolidated the whole into a solid block. Eighty acres have been under cultivation this vear. The doctor has suffered from havmg em- ployed men sent from England, of a class unsuitable for farm work, or his cultivated area would have been larger. The land is now being farmed by a German, upon mutual terms of interest— viz., the doctor finding, in addition to the land, stock, implements, seed, &c., and the steward finding labour, which is paid out of the produce. From the net result, two-thirds go to the doctor, and one-third to the German. Under the arrangement 10 acres at least must be brought under cultivation annually ; this year, however, there will be about 30 acres thus treated. There are 30 acres under wheat, estimated to produce 28 bushels per acre. The straw is rank, growing nearly 6ft. high. Potatoes, tomatoes, and turnips grow luxuriantly. The district is charming. It is watered by the Ottawa, Maskinonge, and Rouge rivers. The latter is full of cascades, and of great beauty ; the valley of the former is of alluvial soil, and very rich. There is plenty of land adjacent to be had on the following terms, not exceeding 200 acres to one person. The Eayment of six dollars |)er 100 acres per annum for six years ; it must be occupied y the person to whom it is allotted, and he must bring under cultivation 10 acres Gr 100 yearly ; and on these terms being complied with a patent issues, and the id becomes the actual property of the settler. There is plenty of game in the neighbourhood ; in winter, bears, deer, wild fowl, &c. Whilst cheerfully giving these particulars, nothing withdraws my love for the great North-West as the choice field for emigrants. I had hoped to have enjoyed more quiet on leaving Montreal, and not to have had to write any more, but even a duller scribe than myself would have been inspired had he skirted Lake Champlain for some 50 miles or more, and passed through scenery so truly American as I have. My memory is carried back to the days when the great French discoverer gave his name to the lake which I have mentioned, and found our own countryman advancing towards him by the beautiful river which will evermore hand his name down through the ages. The sun was setting in his glory, lighting up the western hills with all his effulgence, when the eastern horizon was lightened by the appearance of the moon at its full, shedding her silvery rays upon the river, and giving me what few Englishmen have witnessed — THE HUDSON BY MOONLIGHT. Lake Champlain and the Hudson had joined hands by the construction of a canal, which opened the navigation of each to the other, and ferry steamers and coasting schooners — the latter in hull and rig like our yachts — were borne upon the bosom of the peaceful river, the silvery rays of the moon brin^^ing them out in subdued outline. Fort Ticonderoga was an object of hi&toric interest, the river itself being associated as the scene where the last of the Mohcans was laid. Amongst our number was Sir Erasmus Ommanney, an admiral of the British fleet, well known and highly esteemed as a resident in the Isle of Wight, and it was with considerable interest that the gallant officer strained his eyes and exercised his imagination in the hope of recognising the exact spot, as depicted in a painting which he possesses, where his grandfather sailed up the Hudson in H.M.'s two-decker Tartar of 50 guns to the relief of Sir John Burgoyne, who was hemmed in by the Americans at Saratoga. The bridge at Kingston is a rare specimen of engineering art ; its span is high enough to allow vessels to pass freely underneath. Loch Katrine is indicative of the early settlers being from bonnie Scotland. We were unable to visit Ausable Chasm, the station being too distant. At one place at which the train pulled up some of the sons of Eve were sorely tried in regard to her early temptation — the ruddy apples lay in rich pro- fusion beneath the trees, and but a slender fence separating the coveted fruit from the track, the temptation would probably have proved too strong but for the The British Association Meeting, 1884. 7S \A the land iltered cir- lortly after dols. for 3 acres for ghty acres tiaving em- 1 cultivated man, upon and, stock, out of the hird to the ght under acres thus )ushels per latoes, and nonge, and le valley of adjacent to rson. The >e occupied on 10 acres es, and the ;ame in the fully giving s the choice not to have 1 have been and passed rried back latform, and timid ladies might have envied the manner in which the amiable ady of a distinguished canon of our church remained for hours on the coign of 'vantage which she had secured on a lower step of the platform. The beauteous scene continues. On one side we have the Catskill mountains rearing their heads towards the skies, in bold and varied outline, a solid wall of rock below, out of which the railway track is hewn ; on the other, the Hudson glimmering in the moonlight, and spreading in many places a beach of whitest sand, and by it and its other beauties attracting visitors to its shores as a place of recreation and health resort ; at times presenting to view lovely bays which are shrouded around by crag and hill, and all alike clothed in living green ; at one point a mountain of extended height frowns down upon the peaceful scene below. Here an island as large as Alderney, and again a promontory, which, if the isthmus was pierced, would yield an island of equal extent to our own Vectis, the gem of the Solent. Plattsburg recalled scenes of the Confederate war, and the fences formed in many instances by the up-torn roots of large trees, might have afforded shelter to the advanced picquet of either army. Poughkeepsie is a place of some importance, sheltering oeneath the hills on the shore of the Hudson. A weary ride of about 420 miles — the train broke down, and halted a second time in consequence of a hot axle, and was thus three hours behind its time— brought us to New York, when we should have reached our destina- tion at the Quaker city, at which we did not arrive till 1.15, on the morning of the 5th. The city is beyond mjr powers of description. It contains goo,ooo inhabitants. The post office just completed is claimed as being the finest architecturally, in the world, whilst the supreme court house of Pennsylvania now in course of building is as grand as can be imagined. Many private houses are of white marble, not only walls and outer walls, but vestibule, colonnade, and all around. The weather is intensely hot — too hot to allow of that pursuit of science which becomes the Members of the British Association, many of whom are investing three cents each in fans, and fanning all the conceit of science out of themselves. We had the choice of four excursions for Saturday. Philadelphia prides itself on its ancestry, and is asked of its citizens, " Who is your grandfather ?" whilst of New York, where the almighty dollar is king, the question is, " How much are you worth ?" and of the Boston citizens, who are proud of their intel- lect, "What do you know ?" One indication of the solitude and isolation of the early settlers is to be found in the graves that are scattered hither and thither in the fields, here a single one, and there two or three, until farther on there is quite a cluster, all in their loneliness, neither dwelling nor church anywhere at hand, and only occasionally does a fence enclose the relics of the past. It seems to me as if those who came and possessed the land at first had their other toils and sorrows added to by the loss of a child — for somehow I cannot get away from the thought that the graves are those of children ; and I can picture to myself the father who has left his native shores in search of fortune, himself preparing the last resting-place for his loved one, and bearing in his own arms the treasure of his life. Anent of death, I cannot resist reproducing two notices copied from the Ledger of yesterday. They well might have been taken from Max Adeler, and I question if that humourous author did not inspire the bard who wrote them. The first follows the announcement of the death of a mother, the second that of a son : — " All in this house are sad and lonely. Sad and lonely everywhere; But our mother is in Heaven, Far from all this earthly care." " We had a little Maurice once. He was our joy and pride. We loved him, ih ! perhaps too well, For soon be slept and died." * i u 76 A Visit to Canada in connection with A reception was given in the hall of the Academy of Music on Friday night, at v/hich the retiring President of the American Association delivered his address. Th'S hall is a magnificent building. Internally it is circular, having a large area, wif.h three tiers or galleries, and private boxes on either side. There is a pro* sconium with paintings of trees and rustic scenery, to represent, as it effectually dc«s, a glowing landscape. It is beautifully illuminated with a magnificent glass cliandelier from the centre, and groups of lights arou/:a. All the supports are Corinthian columns, richly gilt, and picked out in white. The ceiling is enriched v/ith paintings of the highest class. Saturday was devoted to free excursions. I chose the one to Atlantic City. Crossing the Delaware by ferry boat, we entered the State of New Jersey. The scenery is of no interest, excepting near Egg Harbour, where delicious grapes are growu, and vended, at first cost, at four cents per pound. Amongst our party was Capt. Bedford Pim, who selected the Atlantic City Excursion in remembrance of his sad experience when there about seventeen years ago. At that time the gallant captain was a passenger from Greytown to New York by the S.S. Santa de Cuba, when the vessel came ashore with 670 persons on board. The skipper of the steamer was incapable from drink, so Capt. Pim exercised the skill and knowledge he possessed as an officer in the British navy, and sent off a raft, which capsized. Then a boat was sent away, but with- out success ; a second boat was launched, and another raft, but nearly all on board were drowned. Numbers of women were lost in sight of the people on shore, the scene being heart rending. The raft that was successful was in charge of a man named McMillin. One lady was so anxious to save her money that she went below, and placing 170 doubloons abou ' her person, their weight caused her to sink like a stone. Many of the bodies were >'jriea on the beach, but a large number were interred at Leeds Point, abont four maes from the city. I believe that by the personal exertionsof Capt. Pim many lives were saved. Atlantic City is the great seaside resort of Philadel- phians, where there is excellent bathing, and by a careful attention to bathing costume this healthful recreation is enjoyed by all classes, and in families, with the strictest regard to propriety. Costumes are hired at 25 cents, of a becoming character. The bathing-houses are away from the water, and are ranged under a single roof to the number of upwards of 100 in each building. My coming south for cooler weather was justified by the result. The width of the streets, the cooling shade afforded by the beautiful trees that form boule- vards throughout the city, the amplitude of the many public parks and pleasure grounds, but probably the realisation of the predicted cool wave which struck Washington in due course, afforded much needed refreshment from the unusually high temperature that had prostrated me at Philadelphia. The botanic gardens at Washington, which cover nearly ten acres, are well worthy a visit. I had the advantage of the information courteously afforded by Mr. C. Leslie Reynolds, who was detailed by his chief for the purpose. I met in the gardens Mr. W. Court, of the firm of Veitch and Son, of England. I travelled to New York with Mr. W. L. Piatt, from Augusta, Georgia. He gives a favourable account of that State, possessing, as it does, capabilities for the growth of every production known to American cultivation. There are different belts ; the south-western bordering on Florida, in which oranges, pines, and all tropical fruits are raised ; cotton and the ordinary fruit, such as peaches, grapes, and pears ; in Middle Georgia is the grain belt, where large crops of maize, wheat, oats, and rye are grown ; and the northern belt, which is a fine grazing country, and produces gold, lead, and coal. This is known as the Nachoochee Valley. There are thousands of square miles of productive land throughout the State uncultivated, for want of suitable labour. The consequence is that good fertile land can be purchased at from three to fi-'e dollars per acre ; unbroken land, well wooded, can be bought for i^ dollar per acre. This state of things has been brought about by the abolition of slavery, and it is now felt that if a system of free labour had existed it would have been better for all parties, especially for the planters, as it is now admitted that slave labour was not the most economical. Free labour would not only have been cheaper, but the resources of the country would have been more fully developed, and population increased. For instance, a planter would own 135 slaves ; of these out 75 would probably be at work, the others being sick, or The British Association Meeting, 1884. 77 lay night, 5 address, urge area, J is a pro- jffectually :ent glass >ports are s enriched rsions. I tre entered near Egg four cents e Atlantic seventeen eytown to with 670 [, so Capt. he British , but with- 1 on board :, the scene lan named ind placing ae. Many d at Leeds msofCapt. I Philadel- [ig costume le strictest character, single roof he width m boule- pleasure ch struck unusually gardens had the Reynolds, Mr. W. Ifork with It of that an known rdering cotton eorgia is bwn ; and lead, and pf square suitable at from light for olition of laid have Itted that ily have I fully own 135 I sick, or otherwise incapable. The doctor for these 135 was paid 500 dollars a year, The climate of Georgia is delightful. Ice is scarcely known, while the heat never ranges so high as in New York. Sunstroke, common in the latter city, is unknown in Georgia. With regard to health, Middle Georgia, the cotton belt, is unequalled ; Upper Georgia, the mineral and grazing district, is almost as good ; the more tropical belts are less suitable for Europeans. A good story is told of a hard- shelled Baptist minister, who was invited to preach at Charlestown. His name was Prettyman, and acting up to the instructions he received from the deacons, he expounded a morality his hearers were unaccustomed to, and not wholly appreciated by certain of the congregation. Minnie King, who held sway for a time in England as an American beauty, and who was very much married, and erstwhile was an English Marchioness, was raised in Georgia, with Mr. Piatt, and they were brought up as children together. Her father still lives in Augusta, and is president of the Georgia Railroad and Banking Company. Captain Piatt, for so I must designate my friend, for he held that rank through the war, after three years' service was captured at Travillian, during one of the hardest cavalry fights, and was connned in Fort Delaware for a period of 15 months. The captain's experience would lead him to prefer active service in the field to a prison life. By the way, I have not seen half-a-dozen friends clad in orthodox fashion in the Quaker city. I am on the coign of vantage lor my farewell view. The Zoo- logical Gardens, the entry to which has been given to us, is on one side, and so close that the animals may be seen. I am between two bridges of graceful pro- portions, which span the Delaware, and but a short distance from the States fair. Looking down upon the city, with its teeming population and its grand buildings. I invoke the shades of Penn, and wonder if he haj knowledge of the growth of the magnificent city of which he was the founder. May I assume that it is not generally known that New York City is an island. From the south we disentrain at Jersey City, and make our way across to New York by ferry boat. There are other ferry boats, of large dimensions, upon which unbroken trains of cars are transported. I need not attempt a description of New York. The city has an old appearance, as well it might, in comparison with the newer cities which I have visited. The elevated railroad is novel, running, as it does, above the streets. The fare is 10 cents, for which you can go t-^ or from any station. The well-known Astor House is my domicile, an . it retains its well-earned reputation. It forms a triangle with the General Post Office, and the offices of the New Yoik Herald. The former, though new, bears no comparison with that in Philadelphia in beauty of style; the Herald Office is a fine building. Brooklyn, a city of 600,000 inhabitants, is reached either by ferry boat or by the world-renowned Fulton Bridge. This is considered the finest suspension bridge in the world. It is a most beautiful piece of engineering skill, and when illuminated by its 36 electric li^'hts, is a picture to behold. BROOKLYN CITY ON A SUNDAY. — A STIRRING SERMON. Brooklyn City possesses great attractions on a Sunday, it being the home of Henry Ward Beecher and Dr. Talmage. I had hoped to hear both these eminent men, but the former was from home ; his church is not large, holding, I should think, not more than 1,600 or 1,800 ; it is plain and unpretentious, and situate in a bye-street. Brooklyn Tabernacle seats 3.000, and is an elegant semi-circular building. The organ is of the tlnest, tone and quality, and the organist is con- sidered to be the best church performer in America. In the morning the Doctor preached a characteristic sermon on the corrupt and venial practices of public men, bankers, directors of public companies, and others. He paid a well-merited tribute to the fidelity of the late Mr. Foulger, secretary to the U S. Treasury, who, he said, died square with himself, with the Government, and, he hoped, with God. When dying, he asked for a cheque to be given him, and with this he desired the expenses of his funeral might be paid. In contrast Dr. Talmage spoke of the repulsive back-ground afforded by the conduct of directors and others who had swindled unsuspicious people out of trust funds. There appeared, said he, to be a pestilence of crime setting in upon the country, and he asked how the 7S A Visit to Canada in connection with plague was to be stayed. There was a simoon, a typhoon, a sirocco of crime. If a committee of orphans and widows were to meet and see how executors and trustees had laid hold on that which was bequeathed to them, and see how the executors were to get that which did not belong to them, these people would not be worth a cent if they returned that which they held belonging to others, and who, when they failed, gave nothing but regrets to their creditors ; but, said the Doctor, " I always find them richer after failure than before." They possessed more Raphaels, more fast trotting horses, and enjoyed more luxury. The evil resulted from men speculating with borrowed money. Never borrow money except for legitimate purposes. If probity and honour governed the financial men, by to-morrow 5,000 at least would resign the positions they hold in con- nection with public companies. He wished the church to be purged of these men, for, said the Doctor, the orthodox swindler was worse than the heterodox, and the greatest sinner was he who belonged to the church. Such men sat and got fat on sermons about heaven. He would thunder them out of the church unless they reformed their lives. Men gambled in wheat, and tried to turn aside the great ocean tide that God had made to flow for the sustenance of man. Many put off the judgment day 5,000 years ; he, however, believed it had come in this year 1884. Widows and orphans lost their humble store, whilst men who had nothing lost all they had ! Now, on the 4th November next, if, and if ! and if ! ! well, if men would cease to borrow for speculative purposes, and, if a change of Government came, the air might be purified. Young men, never borrow ! The bank clerk only borrows, he does not steal, he intends to put it back ; the assistant only borrows from the till, he does not steal, he will replace it. These are the breakers upon which so many lives are wrecked ; 90 per cent, of misery was caused by losses in Wail Street. The Bible alone was th«; only source of pure morality. The text was Revelation xviii., verse 17. " In one hour so great riches are come to nought." I had a friendly chat with the Doctor and Mrs. Talmage. In the afternoon I took a class in the Sund.iy School, and was permitted to address the scholars, lieing introduced as a gentleman from the town in England from whence the Pilgrim l-athers sailed to colonize America. In the morning service memories of home were awakened by the singing of the hymn with the retrain " Home, home, sweet, sweet home ; prepare me, dear Saviour, for glory, my home," to the old familiar tune. BROOKLYN MBMORIAL.S AND BROOKLYN MEN. The public buildings in Brooklyn possess no feature of architectural beauty. The city abounds in street cars, they number 600, in the month of June the receipts were stated to be 232 000 dols. ; tb#f extent is 46 miles double line. The average receipt per car is 24 dols. daily. The Br(K)klyn cemetery is a wonderful f)lace, it comprises 700 acres, and instead of burying in deep graves families have arge spacer allotted, wherein they bury side by side— some of these locations are 150 yards in circumference, and are well timbered , in one squirrels were enjoying the nuts from the trees, others are bedded out with choice flowers, with box-edge rows, flowers in pots and in vases, and havmg garden seats. There are many tombs in the sides of the hills, for the grounds are undu- lating to a great extent. Many tombs are massive buildmgs; and obelisks, statuary, and line specimens of the sculptor's art abound. The most beautiful of these is in memory of Charlotte Canda, a young and lovely girl, who was killed on her birthday by a carriage accident, and whose fortune of 35,000 dols. was spent on her obsequies. There is a monument erected in memory of the 278 persons who were burned m the fire .it the Brooklyn theatre. A singular environ- ment is around the grave of Col. Vor.burgh The fence is composed of 85 rifles with fixed bayonets, each surmounted by the stars and stripes. I was tempted to go to Lord-street to visit the first Methodist church planted in America; it Wcis founded in 1768, but Ichabod might well \>e written over its portals. A dingy underKrountl room, with a scon; of people, presideil over by a lad who could not suppress a sniiU; at his surroundings, induced me to leave and go across the Ferry, and again nit at the ieet of the damaliel who presides over the Brooklyn tabernacle. The doctor preached a wonderful sermon from Psalm The British Association Meeting, 1884. 79 xl., 7 v., " Lo I come, " the subject beitiR Christ the Exile. The pathetic appeal maae to the representatives of all nations composing the vast congregation as exiles, either in their own persons or in their ancestry ; the wondrous invitation to return to Christ the Exile, cannot be reproduced by me. During the service four quartettes were sung by trained vocalists. I met in the church William Wyeth, who emigrated from Southampton in the spriii,;. Also an interesting octogenarian fellow countryman, who was familiar in early life with Rowland Hill, Edward Irving, William Jay, John Angell James, Robert Hall, and Chalmers, each of whom he had heard preach. I withhold the name of the worthy old gentleman, as he did not desire it published. He was bom in Paternoster Row, in the i8th century. Trinity appears to be the mother-church of the country. It was built in New York in 1696, but as a place of sepulchre it has an earlier history, as I have seen grave stones inscribed as early as 1691, and even 16U1. Some record how the departed were born in old England, notably one erected to the memory of one Bradford, a printer, born in Leicestershire in 1660, and who, it is stated, came out before Philadelphia was founded, and who died at the ripe age of 92. There is the antithesis to this in a large monument erected to the memory of the brave men who died in prison in defence of their struggles for independence. At St. Paul's Episcopal church there is an obelisk to the memory of W. J. Macneven, " bom in Ireland, who in the cause of his native land sacrificed the bright prospects of his youth, and passed years in poverty and exile, till in America he found a country which he loved as truly as the land of his birth. To the service of this country which received him as a son he devoted his high scientific acquirements with eminent ability. " Thif is surmounted by a pair of clasped hands, and the eagle and harp entwined. Akin to this is a notice I have observed that drafts are given on Ireland, England, and Scotland. The blarney-stone is bright and shining with the polish it receives in this country. AN IMMENSE ESTABLISHMENT. By the courtesy of Mr. Shepherd, to whose firm I had a letter of introduc- tion from Mr. C. J. Phillips, of Bugle Hall, Southampton, who has business relations with them, I was enabled to insncct the New York Produce Exchange, which has the largest room in the world devoted to business. The building has 7iJ acres of floor surface. There are 3,000 members, and their certificates of membership represent a capital of 8,000.000 dols. The value of the property owned by the ExcH^'nge is 2,000,000. 75 percent, of all the exports of the city J)ass through it. T dimensions are : — On Broadway and Whitehall-street, 307 eet ; Bedner-street iSofeet; Stone-street, 149 feet ; with a clock tower covering a space of 40 feet by 70 feet. The average height of the facades is 125 feet above the kerb. It is built of red ttsrra cotta and Philadelnhian brick. The main storey is 45 feet high ; above this are four floors rentecl as offices, and there is a attic storey. The main exchange hall is 215 feet lonj; by 134 feet wide, ard 60 feet high in the centre. If is lighted by 23 windows, each 31 feet high, and by a skylight 44 feet wide by 167 feet in length. There are 300 office'^ in the builling. The girth of the outside walls is but little less than a fifth of a mile. The co.st of the building was 3,000,000 dols., from which a large revenue accrues, the rental amounting to about 180,000 dols. per ,innum. There ,-ire four entrances, and nine elevators whereby members ancl others ascend and descend. The view from the tower is most extensive, embracing New York, Jersey City, and Brooklyn ; also the small islands in the river Three of these are (lovernor's Island, Magazine Island, .ind Bedlow's Island ; upon the lat'.er the foundaiion is being prepared upon which to erect the gigantic lighthouse and emblem of Liberty pre- sented by the French nation. Staten Island stands out in bold reli«'f lo these minor ones, and is separated by the Narrows from Brooklyn, the l.itter city forming part of Long Island. Raihv.iy communication with New York is main- tained by means of n bridge crossing the Harlem river, and thereby trains run to Boston, New Haven, and Chicago. The Babel in the Produce Exchange must Ixj witnessed to be appn!ciatecl, the only wonder is how bargains can be fixed amidst the confusion of tongues that exists. I was surprised, when there, to be recognised by a gentleman whom I knew in Montreal, Mr. Hodgson. 8o A Visit to Canada in connection with 1! s'ffi': BROADWAY.— GENERAL SUTLER'S CANDIDATURE. Broadway is a notable highway, as it extends some seven or eight miles. It comprises all kinds and conditions of buildings, warehouses, stores, &c. Perhaps two establishments having a greater European reputation than any others are Tiffany's the jeweller, whose store is 28 yards by 60, and Delmonico's, where the most costly dinner can be obtained in New York. The latter is beautifully situ- ated opposite Maddison Square, and is not far distant from the celebrated jeweller. Union Square, near at hand, is another green oasis in the centre of hard and dusty roads. Here Ben Butler launches himself as a candidate for the Presidency this evening. At the back of his platform is a row of gas lamps in ground glass shades, the property of the city, but forming a good background for the redoubt- able Benjamin. I hoped to hear the General orate, and took up a good position below the platform. The proceedings commenced by a poor display of fireworks. The chairman had scarcely began to speak when such a crushing, surging wave of people came from the front of the stand that safety demanded an immediate retreat. This I accomplished, with many hundreds who were indisposed to be crushed by the crowd. I afterwards made another attempt to get near, but was again carried back by the movement of the people. There was a second platform where a hearing could be obtained. From the tenor of the speech, I imagined myself far away from the land of freedom, and relegated to my own country, of which Yankee orators, especially those of the Hibernian brigade, are wont to speak as the land where the honest working man was crushed and ground down by the wealthy classes ; where the urtizan toiled, and the capitalist reaped the reward. For I was told that in America labour was not properly recognized, and that the monopolist and the capitalist were growing rich on the bone and sinew of the honest toiler. I left, fcelmg that, after all, perhaps, we were as well off, on the whole, on this side the Atlantic, as are our cousins on the other shore. HOP I'ICKING IN MIDDLEDURG. — THE HUD.SON RIVER. I travelled from New York to Saratoga with a young farmer who, in search of health, went to Middleburg hop-picking. He was paid 36 cents, and his board, for each box of eight bushels of loose hops. He earned in 12 days 14J dollars. The picking, according to ability, &c., ranges from two to eleven lx)xes daily, the average being about five. The crop is middling, and the quality fair. They sell at 25 cenl« per lb. ; two years ago they fetched one dollar 10 cents per lb. The eight bushels only weighed 1 1 lbs. when dried, owing to the poorness of quality ; they should weigh nearer 15 lbs. On the journey, just before reaching Havershaw, we emerged from a short tunnel, where the Hudson bursts upon our view, not, as before, in the glimmering softness of moonlight, but with the noonday sun shining upon the beautiful river in all its glory, and presenting a scene purely American in character. The wind was fresh, and quite a " sea " laves the shore. Ferryboats and towboats, the latter with qv'.te a fleet astern, another train skirting the opposite shore, the mountains on either side rugged and craggy, and timbered from summit to base, hamlets and wharves nestling at the foot of the hills, give interest to the view, and further on trees, with a back-ground of mountF.ia, look down upon Fort Montgomery. For miles the scene is of the same character, but of ever-varying beauty. At this moment three fore and aft schooners, with canvas white as snow, are beating down the river Cranstons is a lovely place, the High- land F"alls in the immediate neighbourhood being a great source of attraction. The place is illustrated, as are other points of interest, in a series of views sold in the car. West Point is also a charming spot. We here run through the tunnel over which the University is located. Crownest is pretty. The tunnel runs under the Storm King Mountain. Cornwall is quite a port, as is Newhive. Fishkill is on the opposite shore. The bridge at Kingston I mentioned on my last visit. The Catskiil Creek is a lovely place. The mountains of that name are grand, and a large hotel has lately been established on one of the highest points. There are some fruit orchards and vineries on the shore near Marlborough. One of the fine Hudson river steamers is passing, and many large lumber barges are being towed away. Thousands of cedars are on the hill sides. Highland is not of importance; it has a ferry across to Poughkeepsie, which is a town where manufactories are in 7/m British Association Meeting, 1884. 81 ht miles. It Sec. Perhaps iy others are 's, where the lutifully situ- ated jeweller, of hard and le Presidency ground glass the redoubt- good position ■ of fireworks, rging wave of in immediate isposed to be near, but was :ond platform h, I imagined m country, of are wont to ground down St reaped the cognized, and J and sinew of IS well off, on shore. 3, in search of his board, for dollars. The ces daily, the r. They sell per lb. The s of quality ; Havershaw, view, not, as ly sun shining |ely American Ferryboats skirting the ind timbered hills, give luntF.iji, look laracter, but with canvas :e, the High- •f attraction. iews sold in ;h the tunnel :1 runs under ishkill is on visit. The [rand, and a There are le of the fine I being towed importance ; tories are in active operation, and a large lunatic asylum seems to indicate that even in America some people lose their reason. Sangerties, which has a ferry to Tivoli, is situate at the foot of the Catskill mountains, Catskill itself being more imme- diately beneath them. The view increases in loveliness. We lost the River since Kingston, but here it bursts upon us afresh, in beauty altogether its own. The undulating ground, the Hudson playing bo-peep as it were, now in sight and then hidden from view by knolls and woods so charming, and then the West Shore Bridge over Catskill Creek, across which we are speeding our way, complete the panoramic scene. We pass again the little grave in all its solitude ; no dwelling nigh, it stands inthe centre of a cultivated field, and further on there is another, but a tree marks this place of sepulture. They must be the graves of children, both sleeping the same sweet sleep that shall know no awakening till the cherubs bid them arise to a brighter life. We lose the grand river for some time, till we reach Albany, the capital of New York State, and there we come upon the islands that add so greatly to its beauty. ALBANY, SARATOGA, AND THEIR SURROUNDINGS. Albany is a busy city, and has a steam ferry and two bridges across the river. It is a great place for the lumber trade, the canal which connects the Hudson with Lake Champlain commencing there. Five miles out, skirting the railway, is one of the most attractive cemeteries I have seen. Round Lake possesses great interest to the Methodists, as there they hold their great camp meetings. As thev are not in camp, I could only see the groves in which they worshipped, and the buildings they occupie!. In addition to these, large numbers camp out throughout the gatherings, which are attended by thousands of earnest people. Saratoga is, as I before remarked, a city of hotels and mineral waters. During July and August it is crowded with fashionable and wealthy people. The hotel in which I am writing (the United States) I thought a large one, seeing it has piazzas round two sides of its squares of 75 and 150 yards each. The grounds in the centre of the square are very good, and from the bandstand sweet music is being discoursed by a first- class band. The outside of the building measures 80 yards by 200 yards, but this is eclipsed by the National, which closed for the season to-day ; it can dine 1,500 guests in the hall, and employs 400 waiters to ".Uend upon them. The rent for the season, less than three months, is too.ooo dollars. It employs from 1,500 to 1,800 persons on the establishment ; it cost 4,000,000 dollars, and its owner, an elderly lady, is reputed to be worth 100,000,000 dollars. It contains 2,200 rooms; and has a frontage of 160 yards. There are plenty of other hotels which, ordinarily, I should deem to be large. The lower portions of the hotels are let as stores, and thereby greatly diminish the gross rental. Congress Park is the most attractive resort for those desirous of taking the waters. It is entered through an elegant pavilion, which leads to well-arranged pleasure grounds, piazzas, and walks ; on the plateau is a lake, the bandstand forming an island approached by a tiny bridge. There are concerts twice a day, and of sacred music on Sundays. The entrance fee is ten cents, which includes water ad libitum, the flavour of which is peculiar. The grounds are arranged in terraces, and from the top quite a fairy scene is presented. There is a couple of deer in a small enclosure, and statuary adorns the grounds. The High Rock spring is remarkable ; it rises on the public ! [round, though it is private property. The rock is 4A feet above the ground ; rom a hole in the centre, about 12 inches in diameter, there is a constant flow of mineral water. The spring itself is 47 feet deep; it dates from 1761. Politics are more mixed in this city, as, in addition to the other candidates, a banner announces St. John and Daniel as Prohibition candidates for the highest offices in the State. ACCIDENT AT KICKING HORSE BRIDGE. I have just read in the New York Herald of the narrow escape of Professor Selwyn and others, who were in the Rocky Mountains on an excursion with ihe British Association. While crossing the Kicking Horse bridge an immen;!.: body of rock came crashing down the mountain side, and, falling on the bridge, bore it down the awful gorge. By clinging to timbers that did not fall, the; succeeded in 82 A Visit to Canada n connection with mt escaping with trifling bruises. It may be remembered that I described my passage over this bridge, which is loo feet high, I exchanged cards with a gentleman to-day, at the United States Hotel, Mr. Kennedy, who possesses historic information of an interesting character. He holds letters from L'Enfante and Andrew Ellicott, besides others from Maddison, Jefferson, and nearly every Cabinet Minister of the United States. Washington, with EUicott and L'Enfante, conferred in 1791 as to laying out the city of Wa.shington, and the plan was carried out by Ellicott, who was the first professor of mathematics at West Point. Ellicott performed more public service than any man of his day. He marked out the Mason and Dixie's line, as well as .settled the boundaries of several of the States. Ellicott was an ancestor of Hishop Ellicott, and came of a family of whom one was a celebrat(;d watchmaker in London. Mr. Ken- nedy holds the original despatch sent by the British Government enjoining upon the States of Maryland and Pennsylvania the desirability of maintaining peace between each other. He also holds the original plan of the survey made by Ellicott. Mr. Fox, U.S. consul at Falmouth, who is out as a memlwr of the British Association, is descended from the celebrated C. J. Fox, the consulate having been in the family since 1791. Mr. Kennedy is a grandson of Ellicott on the maternal side. He possessed many letters written by Wash- ington, but some miscreant stole them from him. I regret being unable to reproduce the interesting conversations Mr. Kennedy repeated to me as held between some of the most eminent citizens of his country and himself. LAKB CIIAMPLAIN AGAIN. I am unaware if I have in my previous letters noted the scenery between Whitehall and Chubb's Dock ; a flotilla of barges towed by a smart craft more like a yacht than a tug, and painted in excellent taste ; the frowning hill, the undulating country, the green meadow, not always forming part of an American landscape, the tiny lighthouses in the narrow creek, the crowds of cedar that would adorn any nobleman's park, the brushwood, the surge and reedy swamps in the lower ground — it is thus, and far beyond description, that the narrow com- mencement of the grand Lake Champlain presents itself from Whitehall to Chubb's Dock, and along, till rugged bluffs and pine-clad hills, with hamlets lying at their feet, bring us to Dresden. Till now the water is but little wider than the barges which float upon its bosom. The track follows the Champlain, the line of which is tortuous, and so the beauty of travel is incroased. At Putnam the width increases, and the lake l)egins to assunu; becoming form. The groups of cedars arranged by ■ human hand are very fine, and around on every side Nature asserts Ik rsolf 1.1 ih auteous array. Fort Ticonderoga is of historic fame ; it was here that Coiunti Ethan Allen, in the War of Indej)(ii'len( 1% came across from Vermont with 8j nn • an the mthority of the Great Jehovah and the ContinciMJ Congre.ss. " Not knowing how small a num- ber he had to deal with the of, r capitulated, with 50 men. The sternpost and other timljers of the Confidinc < , flagship of the K.N., which was sunk during the war, still exists ; and my informant Icnows the exact spot so well he could lay his finger upon it in th«! dark, l-ort Henry has extensive ironworks, the adjacent hills are rich in ore, .md the smelting; work.s abut f>n the lake, and so have the advantage both of land and water carriagt;. The sun sinks beneath the western hills, the still calm of twilight rests upon the peaceful lake, and though we run by its side cit intervals till House's Point is rea( lud. its beauties are no longer beheld, and memory alone enables me to enjoy afresh the beauteous scene it presents with ever-varying charms. COMMUNICATION BETWEEN CANADA AND ENGLAND. The C.P.R. have determined upon construdling a line, within the next two years which shall conned LiveriVH)l with the Pacific in 12 days They .m- now surveying with a view to determine which port they will t arr> their line to. It might be Cape Breton or Halifax, or some other port. To accomplish this, it will ribed my Is with a possesses [^'Enfante arly every ,'Knfante, plan was } at West day. He ndaries of and came Mr. Ken- ning upon aintaining he survey a meml)er , Fox, the grandson by Wash- unable to le as held ry between craft more ig hill, the 1 American cedar that [ly swamps rrow com- tehall to 1 hamlets ttle wider lamplain, Lt Putnam ie groups every side c fame ; it me across id to have and thus oflicer in ity of the ill a mim- npost and uring the Id lay his adjacent have the |(! western li we run |n() longer scene it Inext two laic now iv. to. It lis, it will The British Association Mating, 1884. 83 be requisite to travel from 400 to 500 miles a day throughout, the distance being — Liverpool to Quebec, 2,650 miles; Quebec to Port Arthur, 1,170; Port Arthur to Winnipeg, 435 ; Winnipeg to Laggan, 975, the present end of the line. That the visit of the British Association would bear fruits to the development of the Dominion I have felt assured from the earliest period of my visit to the North- west. I now find from reliable authority that Sir John Lister Kaye, Bart., of Denby Grange, Yorkshire, has completed the purchase of 5,000 acres of rolling prairie, at Balgonie, in the Qu' Anpelle Valley, in the immediate neighbourhood of the farm of Mr Sykes, anfl of the Bell Farm. Sir John Lister Kaye was accompanied by Mr. Nelson, lanfl agent, in the seledtion of this property, and it is probable he will return to the Dominion for the purpose of developing it, the intention being to lay down the whole extent in wheat, and it is expedted that nearly half of the land will be under cultivation next year. WHEAT GROWING IN CALIFORNIA. To give an idea as to the severe competition which our English farmers have to contend with, I give the particulars of the cultivation of a farm of j.joo acres in California. Breaking, ploughing, and seeding the land, including seed corn, cost six dollars per acre ; harvesting, including cutting, thrashing, cost of sacks, and freight to shipping port, five dollars, making 11 dollars in all. The yield was 20 bushels per acre, realising one dollar per bushel, say 20 dollars, leaving a profit of about 36s. per acre. The whole of the labour, both for cultivation and getting the crop, was contraAed for, and some expenses were incidental to its being the first year of cultivation. The land cost three guineas per acre, interest on which must be dedudted from gross profit. The great economy aris(!s from the use of the most approved agricultural machinery. Th(; crop was harvested without the grain once touching the ground. The reaper cuts i(> feet wide, and is what is kuuwn as a header. It cuts the ears from the stalk, and carries them on to a waggon by means of an elevator attached to the header. When tilled, the waggon moves on to the thrasher, and the grain is trashed and deposited in sacks. The climate of California is such that the grain can remain as long as two months uncut without suffering damage, unless a strong wind sets in and brickies the com out. The straw is let to ranchmen for feed, and later on the stubble is burnt off. Incidentally I may mention that grapes of the finest quality are produced in California at 20 dollars per ton, or a cent per 11). MONTREAL REVISITED. I had not the opportunity on either of my former visits to Montreal to visit the Roman Catholic Cathedral or the Art Gallery. The former is claimed to be the finest of its kind in America. It certainly is not only very large, but most expensively built and elabomtely decorated. In this respect it will compare with some of the best cathedrals in Europe. It certainly pos.sesses the largest hi;ll in the world, and has, besides, ten other bells, The sacrament of baptism was being administered when I was present. The Art (iailery owes its origin to the liberality of th« late Benaiah Gibb, who, in 1877, bequeathed a piece of land and 8,000 dollars for the purpose of founding a gallery in which works of art might be displayed. He also left go oil paintings and eight bronzes, which formed the nucleus of the present institution. The chief object of interest is the raising of the ruler's daughter. It is a fine picture, the head and face of the Great Physician, however, not being, in my judgment, ecjual to the othtr parts of the work. In leaving Montreal, I must reiterate what I have already said .is to the kindness I have personally experienced, and which has txien extended to all who have visited the city in connection with the British Association. I rfgiet to hear from various and well informed quarters, that in some instanc'jii — and they are of sufficient number to demand notice at my hands— the kindliness of the citizens was not reciprocated as it should have been, some of the guests at private houses lK!ing imperative in their n-quircmcnts, and, whilst n:(