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NEW- YORK: HARPER &. BROTHF,RS-82 CLIPF-3TREET 1834. I, Washi [Entered according to tlin Act of Congress, in the year 1834, by Harper & Ukothefs, in the Clerk's Oflice of the Southern District of New- York,] Washi Ami — R Baltini Philad New-I boat The S — F New-"! tion turn ranc the: New-1 . eign '-^^ 1834, by Harper District of New- CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Washington — Mount Vcmon ^ CHAPTER H. Washington — Advantages of Small Capitals— Salutary Hints to Ambition — Foreigner disappointed — More Reflections — Vines —Railroad 17 CHAPTER HI. Biiltimore — Route to Philadelphia — Railroads . . .28 CHAPTER IV. Philadelphia 28 CHAPTER V. New-York — Activity of Citizens — Merchants — Societies — Steam- boats 31 CHAPTER VI. The Sea-shore — Long Branch — Bathing — Scenery — Shipwrecks — Forms of Danger and Modes of Escape . . .37 CHAPTER VII. New-York — Books — The Apparatus of Literature — Conversa- tions with Booksellers on Public Taste, &c. — A Friend re- turned from a Tour to Europe — Foreign Feelings and Igno- rance respecting America — Varwmg Aspects of the Streets of the Metropolis — Impressions dm observing thenii . . 46 CHAPTER Vni. New- York continued — Foreign Residents and Visiters — For- eign Books 66 •^v^f VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER IX. Fashions and old Fashionfl in Travelling— New-York Harbour- Retreat of Wnshintfton's Army from Long Island— The East River— liow State of Agriculture caused by our defective Edu- cation — Hell Gate — Long Island Sound . ■ • ♦'• CHAPTER X. New-Haven— Literary Aspcct-Rcfined Society— Taste in Archi- tecture— Burying-ground— Franklin Institute— Paintings of Trumbull— American Taste — Learning ... 73 CHAPTER XI. A Connecticut Clergyman's Family— Wood-hauling-Middlc town 88 CHAPTER XH. i i Hartford— Charter Hill, the Scat of the Willis Family— Public Institutions— Society— Antiquities .... 97 CHAPTER Xin. Narrative of a Visit to the Springs in tho last Century —News- papers ^^'* CHAPTER XIV. Music— New-England Villages contrasted with Italy on this sub- ject—A Traveller in search of Health— Burying-grounds— Rural Celebration of Independence at Northampton— Amherst — Academies of Massachusetts — Exhibition. . .113 CHAPTER XV. Female Character- A Connecticut School— Scenery on Connec- ticut River— Deerfield— Turner's Falls— Early State of the Country ^^* CHAPTER XVI. Copies of ancient Letters, illustr.iting something of the State of Things in this Part of the Country early in the last Cen- tury '^^ CHAPTER XVH. Erroneous Opinions of Foreigners of our Society— A great politU cal Character— Sabbath-school *3a CONTENTS. V« w-York Harbour— ; Island— The East ' our defective Edu- . fi3 ity— Taste in Archi- tute — Paintings of . 73 )d-hauling — Middlc- . 88 illis Family— Public . 97 ust Century —News- . 104 CHAPTER XVIII. Approach to the White Hills— JJath— Reflections on Sooicly —The Wild Ammonoosuc— Ureton Woods — Crawford's— Scenery 14:$ CHAPTER XIX. Excursion to Mount Washington— Walk through the Forest— The Camp— Ascent of the Mountain — View from the Summit . —The Notch— Old Crawford's— Uartlct . . . 151 CHAPTER XX. Boston — Environs — Literary Institutions — Mount Auburn— Re- mark* on our Intellectual Machinery . . . .160 CHAPTER XXI. Nahant— Plymouth— Principles of the Pilgrims— Their Institu- tions — Excuse for not knowing more — Lyceums . .165 CHAPTER XXII. New-York— Hotels— Sculpture— South America— Dr. Sweet- Foreign Inventions 175 nth Italy on this sub- — Burying-grounds — rthampton — Amherst on . . . 113 -Scenery on Connec- -Early State of the . . 122 ithing of the State of arly in the last Cen- .129 jciety — A great politi- . . . 135, CHAPTER XXIII. A new Comer of the World— Recollections of the Cholera 185 CHAPTER XXIV. Fashionable Education — Hudson River — The Power of Fancy Catskill Mountains — Thunder-storms — Rainbows — Morning Scene .......... 193 CHAPTER XXV. Method and Effects of Labour-saving in teaching Latin— A Frontiers-man — Early History— Conversations on Health and Dress 199 CHAPTER XXVI. The Privileges of American Citizens in Trial by Jury— Battle- ground of Saratoga — Former State of Ballston Springs — Leisure Time — The Beauties of the German Language — A Foreign Spirit in America— Value of oCir own Tongue . 207 "nrs?" vUi CONTENTS. 'hi !1 CHArTEU XXVII. Thoughts on Foreign Trnvel-Dr. Sweet, the natural Bonc^- getter—Retiring Travellers CHAPTER XXVIII. Kvil Fffccts of Pnciin Education in a Christian Land— Improve- mentsn Temperance-Sources ..f intcn,perato Hab.ls m our Countiv-Proper Estimation of Foreign Travel-Our own Sid pS«ical Resources-Negligenco of g^ making Travels at home Pleasing and^scful-A Oard-pany in a Steamboat CHAPTER XXIX. Whitehall-story of Sergeant Tom, a Crcnturo of the Revolution _lX oS-Chamang Scenery and Interesting H.stoncal AssociationslTiconderoga-A Revolutionary Tradit.on-An Oracle of Philology— Crown Pomt t46 CHAPTER XXX. Feeling, on entering Canada-Stato of Sf i«'y-E'"'e'?n|;r: Scenery, &c. on the St. Lawrence-Architecture-W.lful Errors on Education in Convents CHAPTER XXXI. Different Travellers have different Eycs-Thc Polish Exile»- " Regret, o^ the Necessity of closing-" Tom Slowslarter^ Farewell N( Wiioi session fault if 1 ation, 01 objects idlers h The re| glad to tlon to r expect f him be ( sonablc, the merr have th( tive, or them, thin, re! talents ^ or a tho strange pie out like this it pleas( commor thing. ^V.. 3 natural Bonc- . 2ia Land— Improvfl- to Habits in our 'ravel — Our own of good Men in j1— A Card-party . 827 NOTES OF A TRAVELLER. CHAPTER I. of the Revolution resting Historical y Tradition — An . satt ity — Emigrant*— hitecture— Wilful . 243 ! Polish Exiles— »m Slowstarter'i" . . : 248 Washington — Mount Vernon. Whoever visits Washington for the first time during the session of Congress has much to observe. It is his own fault if he does not find some one who will give him inform- ation, or help him to amusement among the variety of objects and characters around him. There are always idlers hanging on some petition, who have news to tell. The representatives and senators from his state will be glad to see him as their countryman, and feel an obliga- tion to render him some of those attentions which he might expect from the consul of his nation in a foreign port. JjCt him be carefid, however, not to look for more than is rea- sonable, for business is very pressing upon a largo part of the members, and calls of this kind are frequent. Members have their trials like other men ; and if they grow inatten- tive, or even show a disposition to get rid of you, forgive them. Many a speech is made in the House and Senate to thin, restless, coughing, and whispering audiences ; and talents which have transported their possessor five hundred or a tiiousand miles to a seat in the government, now, by a strange reaction, will sometimes send fifty or a hundred peo- ple out of the House. Events multiply daily in a country like this ; and time goes on in spite of every thing, though it please only a very small minority at best ; and although commonly nobody can be found who ia satisfied in every thing. In the main, the members are about as civil to per- 2 t^- JglTTBii ■MM) 10 riTV or WARiiiNnTON. I ! BotiB indifTercnt to them, iw other people are whose interest it is on the whole rather to please than to (liajjleiise ; and will nii'et you in the rotinuia of the cnpiiol by appointment ; inlrodiice you into the library of (,'ongre.ss ; tell what senator in lookinjr oui of the middle window, or wiiat tiisiinjfjiished represent itive is turning over Audubon's Ornitliolojjy ; point to the Tresident's house, the departments, the patent-oflice, and the top of the dome, as objects worthy of a visit ; ami then entering their chamber, introduce you to a few loungers near their own seals, yawning at the thoughts of another stupid day, or nervous and feverish with anxiety about the country or themselves. If it be gloomy weather, late in the session, you feel as if you were ii'i a pri.son, for the people seem as dissatistied as convicts. One is lost in thought about something invisible, another blushes over some newspaper which has attacked him, a third hurries to hear whether you have brought any news, and ail are cither hoping or despairing about soon obtaining their r( lease. The broad staircase on the east side of the capitol, by which you wearily mount from the level of the yard to tiie floor of the houses, the rotunda, n(rhts of another anxiety about the weather, late in a prison, for the One is lost ill blushes over some I'd hurries to hear nd all are either their release. )f the eapitol, by )f the yard to the I del()rmity, inter- id beauty of the "ar as I have seen, lainied as an cx- ne. The " stairs i arc made merely arge part of the scene from the lop of the eaj)itol. <;ity were of the ■rounding country ver, spend nnich nt Vernon. The 3ar to me. The to my ears. I ce the day when mourning upon ye, that General Washington was dead. In the sadness of our house that day I participated as a child, with hut few ideas beyoid these, that a man, loved and venerated by my father above all others, had left the world, and that such excellence as I could never liope to see was gone for ever. And where did he die? At Mount Vernon. So sweet a name, asso- ciatcd with such feelings in the mind of a stripling, I had always heard with emotion; and it was with a degree of solemnity that it occurred to me at Washington, that I was now in the vicinity of the place. Not falling in company with any persons of coiigeniul feelings who wished to visit the spot, I detcrminf-d to pro- ceed thither alone ; aiul mounting a horse, set off one fine morning on that most interesting pilgrimage. A great part of the low level land which exleruls souUi from Capitol Hill to tJreenleafs Point, where the East Branch joins the Potomac, is entirely unenclosed and uncultivated, with the exception of a field here aiul there. I passed a spot, how- ever, which makes the strongest contrast with die general waste appearance of this extensive tract, and indeed with most of tjie soil in the vicinity of Washington. There foui acres have been enclosed, manured, and cultivated with care ; and now supply the market of the metropolis with a large share of its vegetables, yielding to the proprietor a valuable income. What a lamentable picture is pre- sented by a country like this, worn out by exhausting crops, and abandoned years ago to sterility and solitude I The road to Baltimore lies through a similar region ; and my whole ride to Mount Vernon offered only the sad variriy of a few plantations, where the same debilitating process ap- peared to have been not quite completed. The few crops I saw seemed to say that they were destined to be the last on those extensive fields ; and the scattered habitations of planters and slaves looked as if ready to be deserted, and soon to resemble the ruins seen on former sites, long since abandoned. The people are the first I ever saw who have not energy enough to pull down their old houses. Shrub oaks and other stunted trees have sprung up on tiw deserted fields, and show how slow is nature to recover 13 MOUNT VERNON. the springs of vegetable life when they have once been cut off. Among these I often paused to contemplate the grand aspect of the capitol from a distance, which is visible from a thousand points around. The enormous tolls paid on the road to Alexandria show the inconveniences arising to travellers out of a thin population. Roads and bridges are erected at greater expense, and contributions for their sup- port are divided among a few instead of multitudes. 1 he reconstruction of the long bridge over the Potomac, as 1 ought to have mentioned, has been undertaken : but it seems to me a discouraging task, especially since the steam- boats carry so large a part of the travellers on the route to Alexandria. , Alexandria is a large town, with spacious stores near the water, and in the upper part several streets of handsome and even elegant houses. The view of the city and its environs, from an eminence beyond it, was such as to show its extent and principal edifices, yet not to exhibit any thing of its harbour or the general plan of the streets. After this I had nothing like an extensive or a pleasmg view during the rest of my ride, as the season was not far enough aU- Tanced to give the woods all their beauty, the late rams had rendered the road very wet, and the habitations of men were few and poor. , Al length I entered the Mount Vernon estate ; and there was some feeling excited by »he thought of the cavalcades and personages that had passed through the same gate. 1 was also reminded of visits I had made to Roman villas, and the -lef srted avenues to ancient cities; and my impres- sions were in some respects similar, though in others very different from any thing I had ever experienced before. The solitude was as profound as that of any deserted region of Italy; the habitations of men, at many parts of the road, seemed as distant; and nature appeared almost as much left to herself. But who can describe the difference be- tween the character of VYashington and that of the ancient warriors, whose memory we associate with the scenes they visited ? Though our education teaches us far too much to admire them, plain sense as well as Christianity leads t» t. despis will o just e heart ; antiqii junctit exert 1 Th( times reache nearer dwelli offerei on to Two 1 from I what have I sloping the pr broad have I of lan( Th( movct brow I yard e which may j scripti alone I appr and h define hours bitter, and h or whi k» mi TOMB OF OBMERAL WA8HINOT0N. IS re once been cut mplate the grand ;h is visible from I tolls paid on the ences arising to i and bridges are ons for their sup- multitudes. The le Potomac, as I dertaken: but it y since the sleam- rs on the route to us stoves near the 3ets of handsome f the city and its s such as to show ) exhibit any thing itreets. After this ;asing view during ot far enough ad- , the late rains had jtions of men were estate; and there of the cavalcades the same gate. I ; to Roman villas, s ; and my impres- Bugh in others very ixperienced before, any deserted region f parts of the road, id almost as much the difTerence be- that of the ancient vith the scenes they 3 us far too much to istianity leads ub t» despise their motives and to condemn their actions. When will our children be trained up to a clear conception and a just estimate of the character of Washington, in whose heart alone was more real greatness than in all heathen antiquity? His principles and conduct, enforced by the in- junctions of the Scriptures, what influence might they nol exert upon the minds and hearts of American youth ! The rear of the family-mansion appears two or three times through openings in the foliage, before the visiter reaches it ; and although it is venerable, it shows, on a nearer approach, evident marks of decay. I passed the dwellings of the negroes, where an old family servant offered his services as guide ; and dismounting, hastened on to get rid of the groups which assembled around me. Two ranges of out-buildings, now partly disused, run back from the ends of the mansion and form a court, — in which what messengers have heretofore reined up, what guests have alighted ! The plain piazza in front, with the Hao sloping and partly shaded lawn, descending to llie brow of the precipice over the Potomac, the clumps of old trees, the broad and winding river below, all appear much as tliey have been represented for half a century on so many sorts of landscape furniture with which we have been familiar. The remains of the father of his country have been re- moved within a few months from the old family-vauh, on the brow of the precipice, to a spot near the corner of the vine- yard enclosure, where the river is concealed from view, but which was selected by him during life. A hasty sketch may give better ideas of its appearance than any de- scription. I dismissed my guide, that I might indulge alone in the feelings which had been rising in my heart aa I approached the spot I had so long regarded with reverence ; and however dilHcult it might be to trace their source or to define tlieir nature, I am sure that I have spent but few half- hours in my life in meditations more sweet and yet more bitter. They need not be deUiled. Whoever loves virtue and his country, and has done any thing less than his duty, or whoever feels like a son of Washington, however humble he nay be, and apprehends how mucli reason tliere is to h ! }'': t! 14 STEAMBOAT CONVERSATION. mourn over the loss of his spirit and his principles, may well conceive them if he will imagine himself placed alone in a solitary spot near the ashes of the dead. At thp ssme lime, to a man of an opposite cHaracler any description would of course be lost. I regretted here the want of some truly appropriate national music, when I found myself breathing a very soft and plaintive Scotch lament. Of all the poetry I have seen written on Mount Vernon, none strikes my ear with so much simplicity and sweetness, mingled with so much elevation, as the lines of Brainerd. There is something much more congenial to my mind in the simple and indeed humble depository of the ashes of Washington than in the most splendid monuments of Italy or even of Egypt. Where there is no attempt made to captivate the eye, the mind is left at perfect freedom to form her own conceptions ; and it is no disrespect to the greatest artist to say, that a refined and virtuous fancy may tran- scend in its conceptions the work of any human hands. I have no objection to the erection of monuments to Wash- ington ; nay, I hope the day may come when every city, town, and village in the Union may possess one of some sort, constructed in the purest taste : but I feel that any fabric of art in this place would be only an impediment to the mind, which, if left to itself, will create the noblest con- ceptions out of nothing. Surely enough is not made of the memory of Washington in our country, when we rellect what has been and now is the influence of his name in the world. His great example of disinterestrdiicss has done more for the human race than we can possibly ascertain ; and is likely to produce still greater eflects. His birtliday should be observed by our children as a day of becoming joy ; and our schools should pour out their young inhabitants to hear his virtues recounted and to sing songs in his praise. I returned from Alexandria to Washington in the steamboat. There were several Virginians on board, of different classes and characters, who engaged in conversation on slavery. This subject, which was longregarded as a prohibited one, and by general consent excluded from conversation in all societies, has become the most general topic throughout the state, .;? is well ki serious b under thi which its like a vai blood. I arouse m little mor and is ge interrupt cracking tling amo sible sere it is no w things ge more the; masons, c works for My Vii about to s specting ; voyage. plan, prim of their re word, — it in a strai felt able ti were the t tent. No , there is d; yet no dii appears to A change shall do ti labour see from the ] as this ai again, as ( My frie STEAMBOAT CONVERSATION. 15 inciples, may ' placed alone At thp Si me ly descripliou want of some found myself nent. Of all Vernon, none id sweetness, )f Brainerd. I to my mind f the ashes of nents of Italy mpt made to eedom to form to the greatest ncy may tran- oan hands. I ents to Wash- en every city, i one of some feel that any impediment to le noblest con- of Washington :en and now is great example man race than » produce still served by our schools sliould rtues recounted I the steamboat, lifferent classes ion on slavery, hibited one, and i in all societies, ut the state, <;? is well known, since the legislature have taken it up as a serious business of deliberation. Virginia has long suflered under this incubus ; and from a mere love of that inaction which its oppressive weight has produced, has allowed it, like a vampire, to overshadow her eyes, and to suck her blood. Nothing but a severe shock can ever efTectually arouse men from such a I-^thargy. " A little more sleep, a little more slumber," is a tune maiked '' Dacapo ad libitum,'" and is generally sung over and over for life. Nothing can interrupt it but a louder note on some diflerent key. The cracking of the foundation of one's house, however, a rat- tling among the clapboards and shingles, and an insuppres- sible scream of hunger from within, are serious sounds ; and it is no wonder that men begin to look about and talk when things get to such a pass. The further they examine, the more they perceive that time and the elements are poor masons, carpenters, and providers ; and that Hercules never works for a man who keeps his hands in his pockets. My Virginia fellow-passengers seemed to me like boys about to sign their indentures to a new trade, or seamen in- specting a ship which they are invited to man for a long voyage. They had many ohjeclions to make against the plan, principles, and arrangements proposed, but the reasons of their reluctance all seemed to be comprehended in one word,— it looked too much like hard work. Things were in a strange state in Virginia two years ago, when nobody felt able to speak of the most obvious facts, though they were the causes of general suffering and of private discon- tent. Now they have got upon the opposite extreme, and , there is danger only of talking too much. They have as yet no distinct, feasible plan proposed; and the question appears to turn on a general hinge : a change or no change ? A change they wish ; but then, the first thought is, who shall do the work ? The apprehension of being obliged to labour seemed to keep my fellow-passengers at arm's length from the point. It drove them back to the statu quo, but as this affords no resting-place, they came jumping back again, as on a recoiling spring, to the necessity of a change. My friends, the hardship of work is not so great as you 8TBAMB0AT CONVERSATION. auDoose Give up this notion; it has almost ruined you, and w U ruin you totally if you hug it a little longer. How do we do at the North! How do they do at the WestT Thrspade and plough are not instruments of torture : their rough handles ha^ve the same drug secreted in them which wa, concealed in the racket of the Persian physicjan. and which with exercise exhaled its essence and restored the health of the monarch. Us influence also extends to the mtellectud and moral man. Suppose you had n.ade an experiment in one of your spacious and fertile count.es thirty years ago, Z your sons^o the field, and trained them to the labours whi/h consolidate and invigorate the frame These labours Tthe same lime, foster a taste for harmless, cheap, and Jatunil enjoyments. How would your fields have looked! Wha wouVhave been their products under such improved sy tems as you and your sons might have introduced T I ZZl see the little neighbourhoods which would have been forme 1, many a field not waste smiling with verdure books a,ds hods multiplied, manufactories built on the streams gSod tdl stretclTing hither and thither, l-PP-ss secured bv intelligence, virtue, and prosperity. Your eyes are rest es your brows are clouded. There is noth.ng niore Uke y ; Sove such symptoms than the sight of our land we I ti Ud by our own hands, the sounds of peace and joy Tn our habuJtions; and what idle man ever kn^^^^^'^^'" %^ . U has been bitterly comphiined of in \'.rguua that useful labour is despised; and no doubt the statesmen who would ga n true honour should take Cincinnatus lor tl'ejr model. 1 most intelligent and independent step has been taken by one of the literary institutions of the state, the results of which must be useful. Manual labour has been connected w study at Hampden S.dney College; and although the rposition to it wis at first very general and power u, a Sable change in the opinion of the >^- J"^ g- '- already commenced; and no one who looks at the Mate of thigs can doubt that this is one of the most wise and prom- snf steps which could have been taken to repair the wastes Sg'enerLns, and to remould the habiu and coadiuoaof (he people. WashingU bition — road. I NE^E miscalcul men, in r important every eyi Broad av the centr impassab like the days of I at the pr Bteril reg to be der the grow more ex[ tropolis ; tended o capitals, tiny ; an trigues. and brill Washing exposed alike im{ many ne terests 9 When y( the same same tw Dst ruined you, ! longer. How at the WeslT f torture: their them which was cian, and which 3d the health of the intellectual a experiment in hirty years ago, n to the labours These labours, 3S8, cheap, and Js have looked ? r such improved introduced 1 I vould have been h verdure, books on the streams, ippiness secured Your eyes are is nothing more ight of our land f peace and joy • knew them ? rginia that useful smen who would for their model. s been taken by e, the results of i been connected md although the and powerful, a rise and good has ks at the state of 3t wise and prom- repair the wastes ; and condition of CHAPTER n. Washington — Advnntages of Small Capitals — Salutary Hints to Am- bition — Foreigner disappointed — More Reflections — Vines — Rail- road. I NE%ER visit Washington without being reminded of the miscalculations which were made by some of our wisest men, in relation to the growth of the city in population and importance. The magnificence of the plan is evident to every eye, and so is the total want of power to complete it. Broad avenues, named after tiie states, stretch indeed from the centre towards various points ; but some of them are impassable, and others lead to nothing worth seeing. Un- like the great roads which met in the Roman forum in the days of Roman greatness, they are more like some of tlieni at the present day, which conduct only to a deserted and steril region in the vicinity. Still there is one gratification to be derived from the public disappointment in relation to the growth of the federal city : the intrigues of a court are more exposed to view than they could be in a large me- tropolis ; and the shades of a great population are not ex- tended over them for their concealment. In European capitals, public men are much less exposed to public scru- tiny ; and great facilities are enjoyed for all sorts of in- trigues. Besides, every thing connected with the grandeur and brilliancy of power loses much of its importance in Washington, because so much of the interior of things is exposed to view. In this city visiters and inhabitants are alike impressed with what they see. Every year presents many new faces in the Houses of Congress, where new in- terests are maintained with the same ardour as before. When you call on a friend, you are perhaps introduced into the same chamber you were in the last winter, with the same two beds in the corners, the same display of gilt- r"-— ^ 18 crry of washinoton. edged paper, aad sealing-wax upon the table, and the same •ymptoms around you of public business and p-^rtisan-spirit, while you reflect that the former occupant of the room and of one of the beds, restored again to private life, is five hundred or a thousand miles off, divested of his feathers, and a fortunate man if not the worse for his campaign at the seat of government. In the streets of Washington no warning seems omitted from which a spectator might learn patriotism, and a states- man honesty. The stage-horses wheel as gracefully to re- ceive the unsuccessful applicant for office as to bring the court-favourite to his lodgings ; and the minister's furniture shines as bright at the auctioneer's door on the day of his taking leave as it did on the evening of his first drawing- room. Oh the silent lessons I have read at the auctioneer's on ambition and her reward, the boasted purity of a popular government, the value and splendour of real virtue, and the contemptible character of her counterfeits! Indeed, so severe are some of the sarcasms thus practically presented, that I was once ready to exclaim against the punishment inflicted on a late favourite of fortune, then newly sunk in disgrace, as greater than he could bear. The carpets on which his flatterers had stood, with smiles and compliments for him, were now cheapened on account of the dust of courtiers' feet, and the peculiar obsequious- ness with which the surface had been scraped at audiences and levees. But, ah ! the bowls and dishes, the cups and glasses out of which so many simpering mouths had been 80 lately fed, and now scarcely dry from the unavailing banquets : what emblems were they of the hollowness and britileness of the station they had recently embellished ! The minion had before possessed my secret contempt and abhorrence ; but I could now have saved him the pangs of such a show. And yet such things are salutary. If they are able to affect others as they affected me, a walk through Pennsylvania Avenue might cure the most ambitious and corrupt of statesmen and courtiers. Some of the inhabitants of Washington have had intelli- gence and observation enoagh to afibrd much interesting in- formation ii What we re little more < deed, perha to form unl Congress, v to influence tries to disci it would be by them wi often form c ness. It is influences s tention of i have often overawe or To an Ami the absence features in ^ to guard gal ception of capitol. T tion is also last war wil confessed, a he had cntei and deliver tomac, whil house. As prevent an ; such a plai pose, undei Though dai neglect to than to hav to become fi From some foreigners, ] large propo "T ABSENCE or SOLDIERS. 19 table, and the same and p-^rtisan-spirit, int of the room and Jrivate life, is five ed of his feathers, T his campaign at jing seems omitted otism, and a states- as gracefully to re- tie as to bring the minister's furniture • on the day of his r his first drawing- at the auctioneer's purity of a popular eal virtue, and the "eits ! Indeed, so ictically presented, St the punishment len newly sunk in stood, with smiles pened on account iculiar obsequious- 'aped at audiences ihes, the cups and mouths had been m the unavailing le hollowness and itly embellished ! ret contempt and him the pangs of alutary. If they e, a walk through >st ambitious and have had intelli- ch interesting in- formation in relation to public men and national affairs. What we receive through the newspapers, or other channels little more correct, passes under their own eyes. And in- deed, perhaps, no part of the country is left so much alone to form unbiased opinions. While speeches are made in Congress, written out, amended, and published by thousands to influence some county, state, or number of slates, nobody tries to discolour things to the Washingtonians, knowing that it would be in vain. Every thing is tiierefore left to be seen by them without disguise ; and the consequence is, they often form correct opinions, and speak with becoming frank- ness. It is gratifying also to reflect, that local interests and influences are not likely to engross and control the at- tention of the government in so great a degree as they have often done in large cities ; and there is no mob to overawe or even to tlireaten their freedom. To an American who has seen any of the capitals of Europe, the absence of military display is one of the most agreeable features in view, wlicrcver he turns. There is not a soldier to guard gates or doors in Washington, with the single ex- ception of those at the navy-yard, a mile or more from the capitol. The total want of every sign of military pre para- tion is also very accordant with one's feelings. After the last war with England, a felon imprisoned for some crime confessed, as I recollect, that during his career of iniquity he had entered into a conspiracy to seize President Madison, and deliver him to the British ships then lying in the Po- tomac, while he was a sentinel to guard the President's house. As there was not even a wall of sufficient height to prevent an approach to the doors, and no other obstacle, such a plan migiit have been easily accomplished, I sup- pose, under favourable circumstances, by mere surprise. Though danger was thus in one instance incurred by the neglect to take military precautions, how much better it is than to have the display of paid soldiers at every turn, and to become familiar with the music and the weapons of death ! From some acquaintance with the feelings and habits of foreigners, I can say with great confidence, that probably a large proportion of the intelligent men of Europe would h to ADVANTA0E8 OF SMALL CAPITALS. learn with surprise that there is not a soldier on guard in the capital of the United States, even during tlie sessions of Congress, although the familiar furt excites not a thought in our minds. I have heard a good deal said about schools of eloquence, the rhetorical talents of certain portions of the country, and native genius ; but I found true in Washington what I be- lieved in the French Ciiambers and the British Houses of Lords and Commons : that many men who suppose them- selves great orators are deficient in some or all of the indis- pensable qualifications ; and that not a few real orators are unsuspicious of their talents, or unconscious of what they consist in. With our early training at school and college, we are very apt to suppose that line language must approach the Latin standard, either in words or arrangement ; and after we have lived long enough to correct this mistake, we are some time in settling the great fact, that eloquence can never consist in useless words. Yet nothing is more true : and although we often find high encomiums passed by tho newspapers on particular speeches, could we have witnessed their delivery, we should generally have found them falling blunt and dead upon the closed ears of a thin and sleepy audience. With abundant materials for thought, I took my seat in a stage-coach ibr Baltimore, and revived many a recollection of strolls through European palaces and prisons, and events in the history of courts. Washington, tliought I, is a me- tropolis of nuisances, a capital of intrigues, and ever must be. But yet how difl'erent it is, in some respects, from the seat of an European court ! The profession of a courtier requires a long apprenticeship, which it is almost impossible to obtain in this country, among the frequent changes to which our system subjects us. Though tlie growth of bad men may be rapid, their career must generally be short. But what results might not be produced, if such characters as may be conceived, were allowed to prosecute their opera- tions for ten, twenty, or thirty years, witiiout fear of inter- ruption, and under the shelter of an unchanging dynasty! Who wou States, as So prepo madman. trained in be gratifii formance ; may be m even conj( one preter or why. looked on ments, an( horses mi among the changes ii Benefit teror two with men s distant stai principles, from differ a spirit ol parts of tf observe th measures time they i states whi minds sucl rience. If sincere or of palriotis with intclli try is regai liked by ot There we who had a had becom of the city, ■""^i-. / A FBKNCriMAN'a OPINION OF WASICINOTON. 21 on guard in the tlie sessions of lot a thought in Is of eloquence, he country, and Tton what I be- itish Houses of suppose them- ill of the indis- real orators are ! of what they )ol and college, must approach angeincnt ; and lis mistake, wc t eloquence can Q[ is more true : i passed by the have witnessed nd them falling thin and sleepy jk my seat in a y a recollection ons, and events ght I, is a me- , and ever must ipects, from the »n of a courtier nost impossible ent changes to growth of bad ;rally be short, iuch characters ute their opera- t fear of inter- nging dynasty? Who would ever think of studying diplomacy in the United States, as it is regularly studied in some European couniries? So preposterous a thing would be undertaken only by a madman. On the other side of the Atlantic, a man well trained in the forms of inlet national business may ex|»ect to be gratified with the substantial rewards awaiting its per- formance : but here, selections of ministers, secretaries, ani- menls of it were there to be seen, but these he had not visited. He had missed the crowds and frivolities of Paris, —I will not say the vices ; and see how much we gain in having our capital in so great a degree as it is, divested of these. In Europe, courts corrupt capitals, and capitals -courts and kingdoms. Mr. Adlum has his vineyard near Baltimore, where he has had great success in raising grapes, and even in making wine. How unaccountable it seems, that with all the sagacity of our countrymen, the abundance of indigenous vines, and the ease willi which they, as well as some foreign species may be cultivated, this branch of culture should have been so little attended to. The fruit is highly esteemed by H8, vast quantities of w4ne are imported, and abundance of miserable and pernicious drinks is used by persons who might be more cheaply or healthfully furnished with whole- some weak wine, were the proper course pursued to make it. The vine is probably more generally found in our dif- ferent states, and more indiiferent to the varieties of soil, than any other plant we have. The treatment and culture of it are also remarkably cheap. A vineyard of twenty acres may be tended by two men employed only a part of the year ; and the value of the harvest will be great after the second year. At the same time, the soil best adapted to the vine is sandy and pebbly, such as is to a great extent now lying waste in the United States, as of little or no value. Many vines are seen in different parts of the country, chiefly trained for ornament and shade, but how few per- sons there are who attend to the pruning or clipping of them at the proper season : operations which are indispen- sable to the production of a good crop, and the neglect of which, for a single season in Europe, would cause an im- mense loss. There the Baltii ington re former c valley on and a roi far beneii Potomac, constantl Mills ma Balti and ente in Amer large st( best in t busy pe open sqi in the ri towards signed i inhabita plish gr main-sp which a quarter Indian < of trave quenily door. v.ery gi I ^ BALTIMORE. 28 } ? Washington what he hid ex- as such alone it IS8, the Supreme and accoin4>ani- liese he had not volities of Paris, much we gain in it is, divested of lis, and capitals more, where he d even in making lat with all the CO of indigenous 1 as some foreign ture should have rhly esteemed by md abundance of by persons who shed with whole- pursued to make found in our dif- varieties of soil, tment and culture leyard of twenty 3d only a part of will be great after soil best adapted to a great extent as of little or no ;s of the country, but how few per- ng or clipping of hich are indispen- nd the neglect of uld cause an im> There are several fine sights piesented on that part of the Baltimore and Ohio railroad which lies along the Wash- ington road for three or four miles before we reach the former city. In one place it passes a liroiid and deep valley on the top of a great embankment, wliile a stream and a rountry-road cross its route through arched openings far beneath. It is travelled to the " Point of Kocks," on the Potomac. The scenery to Fredericiitown, 60 miles, is constantly varying, and often wild and romantic. Ellicoit's Mills may be compared with Little Falld on the Erie Canal. CHAPTER III. Baltimore — Route to Philadelphia — Railroads. Baltimore has as much the appearance of prosperity and enterprise, in proportion to its size, as perhaps any city in America. The broad and straight streets are lined with, large stores and dwellings, some of which rival in taste the best in the country, and are thronged with well-dressed and busy people. The monuments, rising high in the air from open squares, give an imposing eflect ; while the shipping in the river and harbour, and the noble railroads extending towards Susquehaima and the Ohio, with which it is de- signed to open a direct communication, indicate that the inhabitants have the intelligence and the ability to accom*. plish great things, to promote that commerce which is the main-spring of the city. The number of stage-coaches, which arrive and depart is truly astonishing. Scarcely a quarter of an hour passed, when I was so situated at the Indian Queen as to observe the street, without the alighting of travellers or the strapping on of more baggage ; and fre- quently several stage-coaches stood at once before the door. The travelling by steamboats and railroads is also v,ery gceat i so that when navig.ation is open and Congress. in^ 94 VALUE or I'lrBLK- INTKLLIUKNCB. m 4 Wl is iti sesNion, the place is one of our frrcntest tlioruiighfarei. Thu miiliitudes coiniii)( rroni the W'-stt irnprctts uiic with the riipid increase of population in those flourishing regions. liiiltitnore has few nioniinients to piililic inlelligence worthy of tlie name. There are few olijects which I have seen, that convey the idea, so gratifying to a stranger anil so honour* able to the citizens, that in thin pla(!e knowledge is duly appreciated, and useful learning in shared liy all classes. I speak of monuments as the Europeans use the word : ihiit is, as public edifices. 'I'lic University can scarcely be said to exist in any branch but the medical dcparlmcnt, which lius above one huntlred students. The Alhcnivum has -12,000 volumes in its library. Public education is improving rapidly. Four fine schoolhouscs have been recently erected. No. 4, in Hanover-street, is a beautiful specimen of archiieciure, being constructed of whitish granite, with a tasteful fagade. These buildings are much more ornamental than the public schools of New- York. May the interior prove but as use- ful, and Baltimore will have abundant reason to value her new acquisitions. There are persons in every considerable community among us, whose real pecuniary interest would be consulted by the cultivation of knowledge ; and from these some ex- ertions might be expected, at least, on the ground of sound mercantile speculation. Although I would wish to see loftier motives than this brought into operation on such a subject, my chief desire is that the important benefits may be at any rate enjoyed. Teachers and booksellers are directly interested in the case ; and one would suppose that men of real literary or scientific attainments voulii wish to have their merits judged of by an enlightened public, or seek to cultivate knowledge among those around them, that they might enjoy the pleasure of participating. One would think, too, that as public peace and private security can be enjoyed only amid good order, intelligence, and morality, every indi- vidual would feel the elevation of public intelligence to be a matter of personal interest, and lend his voice and counte- nanee, if not his purse, to its aid. And as our females are generally more dependant than men upon the state of society nround th of intellei occasion 1 its favour, extent, w noble wor in posscN of the coil to render for comm money be> dation of mcmoralir There i boat from sides is p exhaustinji and almos a tree sho and there be called i moderate i is exceller remonstiMi the contin to slavery How desh displayed recovered' One of are more aware. / dead of ni with 8om( Some half blows whi such infor ensued b( neighboun STCAMnOAT ADVEN-rrRC. 29 t tlioruiighfarei. 'US uiic with the ling regions, lligence worthy hiive seen, that and Nu honour- wl»'«lge is tluly y all cluMsca. I ttie word : that exist in any lius above one UOU volumes in rapidly. Four led. No. 4, in if architecture, tasteful fagade. than the public ove but as use- >n to value her ble community dd be consulted these some ex- round of sound i wish to see tion on such a nt benefits may )ookseller8 are Id suppose that 1 v'ould wish to I public, or seek them, that they ne would think, can be enjoyed lity, every indi- lelligence to be ice and counte- >ur females are state of society around (hem, and not less capable of appreriatinf^ tha value of intellectual refuirnient, they xhould be rraiiy on every occasion to throw their powerful influence into the scale ia its favour. Strange it is, that amid a population of Nuch extent, with ho much prosperity and wcalili, with such noble work.s for iniernal eoiiimunication as arc in projrress, in possession of every facility, i>nd so near the capital of the eouiilry, there hIiuuKI be any delay to adopt meiisurca to render this city a:» much diNiiuguihhed (or intelli>,'ence as for conimerciHl enterprise. One half the ingenuity and money bestowed u|)()a a single structure, might lay the foim- dation of a far more neeosNary monument ihan that com- memorating a battle. There is but little to interest the traveller in the steam- boat from Italtiniore to I'renchuiwn. The soil on bolhf sides is poor, and large tracta have been impoverished by exhausting crops in years past, and consequently neglected and almost deserted. Not a building, or a wall, or scarcely a tree shows signs of even local or individual prosperity; and there is nothing which approaches nearer to what may be called scenery, than rough banks and some bare hills of moderate size. In some places, at a distance in tltc interior, is excellent land ; but all we see hereabouts justifies the remonstrances made in the legislature of Maryland against the continuance of the present state of things with regard to slavery, on account of its ruinous influence on agriculture. How desirable it is that the necessary energy should be displayed on such a waste territory, and that it should be recovered to fertility and usefulness. One of those scenes I once witnessed here, to which wa are more exposed in steamboats than we are generally aware. An insane man, who was a passenger, rose in the dead of night, and waked us from sleep in the darkness, with some of the most shocking screams I ever heard. Some half dozen men were roused at the same time with blows which he gave them at a venture ; and to judge from such information as was to be obtained, an angry scufJle ensued between them, each erroneously supposing hi» neighbours the aggressors. A light brought about such an 3» h J n V'il 4 iii^i f i.i'ii 36 RAILROADS. explanation as caused a cessation of hostilities^ but it was long before the cause of the confusion was discovercJ, and still longer before the wily maniac was confined and silenced. We are always exoosed to a panic whenever the cabin is left at night without a light; and why serious accidents do not often occur, I cannot tell. One of the happiest effects of travelling on railroads is the freedom it gives you from the impertinence and imposi- tions of porters, cartmen, et omne id gtnus, who infest common steamboat landings. A long and solitary row of carriages was Sianding on the shore awaiting our arrival ; not a shout was heard, scarcely any thing was seen to move except the locomotive, and the arms of the man who caught the rope thrown from our boat. The passengers were hied off along a ])lanked walk to the carriages through one gangway, while their luggage, which had already been stowed safely away, was rolled on shore by another, in two light wagons ; and almost without speaking a word, the scats were occupied, the wagons attached behind, the half- locomotive began to snort, and the whole retinue was on the way witti as little ado and as little loss of time as I have been guilty of in telling the story. The men and boys who should, or rather would have been on the spot, halloo- ing and bawling, but for the railroad, it is to be hoped were somewhere in better business. 1 wish them nothing worse, while I wish travellers nothing better than to be thus rid of them — whenever they can as well do without them. I had one very pleasant reflection to make upon the route of this railroad, viz., that it had not injured a single valuable farm, or crossed a spot of good soil. What is to come on the back of railroads I do not know, or how long it will be beft)re they are to be in their turn superseded by some more economical or rapid expedient, as they have superseded canals. When the great canal was cut across this very cape a few years since, competition was as little apprehended, even in the transportation of pas- sengers, as it is now on this road. And in a country where we are as ready to act on a new suggestion, and to push a Dew experiment to the utmost, as we are to embrace a new I THE DELAWARE. 27 ties; but it wa» (iiscovercJ, and ed and silenced, er the cabin is us accidents du 7 on railroads is nee and imposi- nus, who infest solitary row of ting our arrival ; as seen to move the man who The passengers arriages through lad already been ! by another, in iking a word, the behind, the half- retinue was on iss of time as I le men and boys the spot, halloo- o be hoped were n nothing worse, to be thus rid of tut them. ie upon the route a single valuable i I do not know, be in their turn pid expedient, as great canal was competition was ortation of pas- a country where 1, and to push a ) embrace a new opinion, who can tell what new plans, what new enterprises are before us ? *^ Steamboats, canals, and railroads, in their different spheres, have done so much to promote brotherly love among our countrymen, and promise so much more, that I look upon them with a kind of affectionate gratitude We formerly thought that the vast extent of our territory would preclude that intimate intercourse between distant parts whicii IS necessary to unity of feeling; and that the want ot a sense of mutual dependance would foster mutual estrangement: but iliese improvements have eaten up miles and degrees of space, levelled mountains, contracted plains, dried up rivers, and dr.nk up half the water on our coasts. Ihey have, as it were, made a present of a good pair of seven-league boots to every son and daughter of the United btates And what gadding on a large scale is now per- formed ! What long jumps do we annually make from home to our neighbours of Maine, Michigan, Kentucky, and Louisiana ! It has been said of some of our countrymen that they have no home : but it might be more truly said of them all, that they have half a dozen; the stage-coach, the canal-boat, the steamboat, the packet-ship, the inn, and now the railroad car. The vehicles for travelling thus furnish us with a practical refutation of all the prognostics that have been proclaimed of evil to our country, from want of mtercourse between its different parts, founded on the expe- rience of other nations; for they have made us to differ from them in this most essential particular. On reaching Newcastle, the cars stop near the steam- boat, the passengers alight upon a wooden stage, and are soon safely embarked, while their luggage is dexterously rolled m upon the Jorward deck. Cars laden with merchan- dise may be driven into a large store-house, to be protected m stormy weather or at night, and fifty of them may be housed as comfortably and with as little ceremony as an old milch cow in a tanner's barn. Many pleasant little spots of cultivated land are seen along the Delaware, chiefly on the Pennsylvania side; and on either hand are numerous patches rescued from the river nn 1 i!i'!! i Si 28 PHILADELPlIIAi. by stone walls and banks of earth, which exclude the water when it rises, and preserve the crops from overflow. Few travellers know the pleasant scenes which are found a little in the interior, as no great route passes through them ; and many of the inhabitants, being almost cut off from inter- course with the world, are little affected by the exciting irv fiuences of the day, so irresistible to those who are exposed to them. This is particularly true of a portion of New- Jeraey, not far remote. What a bitter enemy to human im- provement is a pine barren ! It is the best emblem we can show of a real European legitimate. It keeps the people on the borders of starvation, so that let the thirst of the mind for knowledge be never so great, it is always exceeded by the famine of the stomach. It separates men as far asunder as possible, and thus the Tire of knowledge, like scattered brands, can never kindle into a blaze. How these obstacles are to be overcome, by what means we can hope to triumph over poverty and distance in intellectual, as we can in physical respects, is yet to be determined. Certain it is that this is a question of great importance ; and the success we ha^'e had in improvements of less consequence- should stimulate our exertions in this. I m ■; iiji CHAPTER IV. Philadelphia. Philadelphia has beauties and excellences of its own,> None of our other cities has so fine a kitchen-garden as Southwark, or displays so much of the beauty of utility and' uniformity in its streets. In justice, however, I must allow that no suburbs can be more forbidding, and no introductio» to a large town less promising, than the access by some of the great routes. I hope the boasted literary character of the citizens is not more apparent than real. Whether it be so or not, able qualit credit of it. between th aggregate i better to la the whole i Why PI I am sure ] Boston, or within thei considerabi the inhabit ^■irictions w of our advi sigh for the us. It pro gence, virtu as the decic and total ( timidity on < around, hen of any of oi perversion c notorious pi puns in a twelvemontl promote soli Athenaeum, provide lect are of coursi must invite think, more How any hoc threading th< Boston, espe is difficult to There is ( the persuasio ■lude the water /etfiow. Few e found a little igh them ; and aff from inter- he exciting itv lo are exposed rtion of New- r to human im- mblem we can !ps the people e thirst of the ways exceeded 38 men as far nowledge, like ;e. How these is we can hope llectual, as we ined. Certain ance ; and the IS consequence- ces of its own,> ihen-garden as !y of utility and' -, I must allow no introduction 8ss by some of ry character of Whether it be PHILADELPHIA. gQ 80 or not, I sincerely wish them ten-fold of this commend- able quality, which they value enough at least to claim the credit of It. We need not wish to institute exact comparisons between the intellectual merits of any of our cities, lest the aggregate should rdlect upon the country. It were much better to labour zealously by combined exertions to increase the whole slock. Why Philadelphia should not be the Athens of America, 1 am sure I cannot tell, nor what should prevent Baltimore, Boston, or New- York. The people have all the means within their reach. We are in the habit of attributing considerable literary honour to some of the cities of Europe, the -nhabitants of which are bound on every hand by re- litrictions which greatly impede them; while we, insensible ot our advantages, so superior in many respects, indolently sigh lor the time when learning will take up its abode among us. It probably is in the power of individuals of intelli- gence, virtue, and influence, now living, by only coming out as the decided champions of knowledge, to effect a speedy and total change of things in the United States. But timidity on one side, old habits on another, and business all around, hem m and shoot down all the hopes we entertain of any of our citizens here and elsewhere. Punning is the perversion of the use of words; and the Philadelphians are notorious punsters. Some of them will manufacture more puns m a half hour than you may hear elsewhere in a twelvemonth. They have some line institutions which promote solid learning among different classes, such as the Athenaeum, Franklin Library, and sundry societies which provide lectures, books, &c. In medical institutions they are of course first. The general aspect of the city certainly must mvite the mind to study and reflection, one would Jink, more than that of most other towns in the Union. How anybody can pursue a straight train of thought while threading the crooked lanes and alleys of New- York and Boston, especially with the din of the former in his ears, it is difficult to tell. There is one reason why I prefer Philadelphia; I feel the persuasion always upon me that every thing is clean. •t ill I (m li'. V t 30 PHILADELPHIA. The breadth and uniformity of the streets favour cleanlinea«, and a great deal of washing and scrubbing is visi'jle ; for wliatever house you enter, you see hydrants, and tubs, and baths, and rills of living water, and have the satisfaction ot reflecting that hogsheads and rivers of it are daily used ta good purpose. . , The elevated banks of the Schuylkill are ornamented with several fine public institutions, among which the Marine Hospital is conspicuous. The marble quarries, a short dis- tance up that stream, afi'ord most valuable facilities for the erection of edifices of a beautiful material. A tour of visita- tion to the Water Works, Penitentiary, House of Refuge, &c„ out of the city, and the various public buildings, exhibitions, &c. within, will aflbrd any traveller much interest, and he will see and hear things important to be known, too numer- ous to write or to read. Though the state is sadly de- ficient in public schools, there are some good ones ; and the infant schools of this city have been celebrated. Ihe American Sunday School Union has its centre here ; and the publishing apparatus is very extensive. They have for several years issued about a million of little volumes annually, and have taken great pains to improve the char- acter of works for the intellectual, moral, and religious instruction of the young. But one who is bound on a long journey must not allow himself to be too long detained by 'he agreeable objects o£, this orderly and well-arranged city. l^ew-"y Whoev maker's si feels on le; anew, and hears a cli every thin, comer but is no inacti and mind ; ■excited by compelled a man has step quick( and if he make him avoid colli the cross-v Another about New are seen bi pression \\i the stage-c( at irregulai to witness i six and sev thecompas point to tak rives, the 1: 'Ceases, the avour cleanlinesit ig is visi'jle ; for Its, and tubs, and the satisfaction of are daily used to- 3 ornamented with, rhich the Marine irries, a short dis- le facilities for the A tour of visita- ise of Refuge, &c., dings, exhibitions, h interest, and he Lnown, too numer- itate is sadly de- ; good ones ; and^ celebrated. The centre here ; and live. They have 1 of little volumes improve the char- )ral, and religious ley must not allow greeable objects of, CHAPTER V. >few-York— Activity of Citizens—Mcrchants-Societies— Steamboats. :• Whoever visits JVew-York feels as he does in a watch^ maker's shop ; everybody goes there for the true time, and feels on leavnig it as if he had been wound up or regulated anew, and better than he could have done it himself. He hears a clicking, as it were, on all sides of him, and finds every thmg he looks at in movement, and not a nook or comer but what is brim-full of business. Apparently there IS no mactivity ; that is, no person is quiescent both in body and mind at once. The reason of this is, that the lazy are excited by the perpetual motion of the busy, or at least compelled to bestir themselves to avoid being run over. If a man has any sympathetic excitability, he will inevitably step quicker in Broadway than in an ox-path in the country; and if he have none, a regard for his flesh and bones will make him keep pace with the crowd with which he moves, avoid collision with that which he meets, and hurry over the cross-walks to escape the carts and omnibuses. Another great reason why there is so much excitement about New- York is, that the principal vehicles for travelling are seen by so large a portion of the population. Little im- pression was produced on the public in former days, when the stage-coaches took off most of the travellers by night or at irregular hours: but what can be more animating than to witness the departure or arrival of the steamboats ? At six and seven in the morning boats start for all quarters of the compass, like so many carrier-pigeons, released from one point to take the courses they choose. When the hour ar- rives, the hissing and roaring of the steam-pipe suddenly •ceases, the departing travellers spring on board, their re- iniif n i ' i ir ! I! ; iir ? 1,; I ^. 82 MERCHANTS. maining friends fly for the shore, the wheels move as if by instinct, and boats tear friend from friend. No rov.-boat is left behind, as formerly, to accommodate those who lag be- hind : the day of toleration for the lazy has passed ; and all the comfort they receive, when they beg a moment's delay, is an assurance that they will be " in time for the next boat." But in spite of all such warnings, we find the ancient race of the Loiterers not quite extinct. They are found at every steamboat-landing in the country punctually at their time ; that is, half a minute at least too late : and if the moment for starting should be delayed until to-morrow or next week, they still would so contrive it as to keep up their consistency. This spirit of delay once detained one of my travelling com- panions a little too long, and separated us for a part of the route, on the enjoyment of which we had indulged anticipa- tions, loading one of us with a double portion of luggage, and at the same time depriving the other of a change of raiment. I once saw an orange-seller hurry on shore at the signal for starting, without waiting to give change to a cus- tomer, whose money he held under pretence that he had no time; and in another instance a man, who meditated a similar trick on his porter, was pulled back by him for pay, and detained on shore, while his spouse was taken to another city without him. One would think, from the activity of the New- York merchant, that he must be wholly absorbed in the pursuit of wealth : but on beconiing acquainted with the facts, you often find that he only redoubles his activity in business hours to gain time for some other employment which he prefers. Not a small proportion of the whole number are connected with some society for the promotion of the good of their fellow-citizens as fellow-men, in morals, intelligence, religion, or some other important interests. This is by no means true of all, nor of so many as would be desirable, as is proved by the fact, that numbers are members of two, three, and sometimes more associations. They take their intelligence and activity with them wherever they go ; and therefore in their society or committee-rooms, with the aid of their commercial punctuality, clear-sightedness, and promptitu( a saving o difieront h active niei astonish a mate of it. annually c objects wc be easily I large shai individuals not merelj the prospe from the e: influential amples of those who i and anothe ested benpl have becon have alreac It is high and emploj occupy imp( them for m( great object by the fath« vantages, th employment they liave 1 their philan rity, and pri excellent ini sphere. Th responsible i the good of ( to witness tl schools, Bib less gratifyii BENEVOLENT ASSOCIATIONS. 33 els move as if by . No rov.'-l)oat is hose who lag be- is passed ; and all a moment's delay, for the next boat." I the ancient race are found at every ally at their time ; lid if the moment rrow or next week, > their consistency, my travelling com- s for a part of the indulged anticipa- sortion of luggage, er of a change of rry on shore at the e change to a cus- icc that he had no who meditated a ck by him for pay, use was taken to of the New- York rbed in the pursuit with the facts, you Lctivity in business iloyment which he whole number are motion of the good norals, intelligence, Its. This is by no lid be desirable, as I members of two. They take their •ever they go ; and rooms, with the aid ir-sightedness, and promptitude, generally act with judgment, good cfFeef, and asavmg of time, which could not he expected from men of dillercnt habits. '1-hc amount of business performed by tlie active merchants of this rity in benevolent societies would astonish any one, if it were possible to present a clear esti- mate of it. And on the other hand, an account of tlie money annually contributed by them for .he promotion of similar objects woud form an amount probably greater than might be easily believed. In all this the purest motives have a large share of inlUunico. It is only necessary to know individuals personally to perceive that many are actuated not merely by generosity, but by Christian principle; and the prospects of good to the city, the country, and the world. Irom the extension of the spirit of benevolence among the influential men of this city, are very encouraging. Ex- amples of the kind encourage imitation, while they reward those who furnish them ; and every year sees one individual and another embarking in the delightful career of disinter- ' ested beitfficence, and new exertions made by those who have become more interested or encouraged by what thev have already effected. s J' <*i mey It is highly gratifying also to perceive that the education and employments of multitudes of the young, who are to occupy important stations in society hereafter, are preparinc them for more general and extensive labours for the same great objects. The present societies, created and directed by the fathers, have afforded their sons, among other ad- vantages, that most important one of useful and improvine employment for their leisure. In multitudes of instances they have led to the formation of characters amiable for their philanthropy, valuable for their intelligence and pu- nty.and promising by their practical knowledge, and The excellem influence they already exercise in their youtliful sphere, fhousands of them are at this moment active and responsible members of societies, whose express objects are the gjood of others: and while it is a most agreeable sight to witness their labours in literary associations. Sabbath- schools, Bible, Tract, and Temperance societies, it is no less gratifying to trace out the influence which systematic 34 PROMOTION OF LKARMNt*. hfUcricciuT produce's upon their habits, minds, nud afrcc- tiuiis, and (hliiiMS among lln^r family ami t-ocial finles. And how important arc these iilllueni-cs in a population n) nearly a.JO.OOO ! But a view of wfiat has been done, and M'hat is doing in this great eity by the good and the intelli- gent, leads tlie mind to eonsider what ought to be or may yet be eflected. , And surely, with all the advantages oil'ered by New-\orU for the procuring ami the dillusioii of knowledge, more should be undertaken for the bcmllt of public intelligence. This eity should be the centre of learning for the V'nion. No other plae« in the country can possibly enjoy the advan- tages she has to become such ; yet some of our cities and villiiges have turned to so much better account what means they have possessed, that they have become literary m a tenfold greater proiwrtion. The public schools are the best large ones in the country, excepting those of Boston ; and hi some departments are far superior to them. Some of the private schools are good : but the vast majority, par- ticularly of the fashionable ones, arc miserably defective. Columbia College and the University are very respectable institutions for the higher branches of learning, while the Mercantile Library Association, the Apprentices' Library, the City Library, the Athena;um, &c., alFord valuable means of self-instruction to their various classes of readers. Un- fortunately, the talents of the learned are kept too much out of sight, and are of course too much underrated by the public, who scarcely know that they exist. Attempts have been made, from time to time, to establish monthly maga- zines of diflerent descriptions, but they have never flour- ished well ; for writers of acknowledged talent cannot be procured without a reasonable reward, and the publishers are not often disposed to hazard a large sum on an uncer- tainty. If such men, however, were employed in writing for publication, how much better it would be for the country tlian to leave them in the retirement of their families or of tlieir professions. There is, therefore, yet much to be done by the inhabitants of New- York for the promotion of knowledge ; and to the ri a !) c d R( i; tc I), b Ol fr tl m SI ci T a ol ai S( is tu th w ti( ai be fl3 Pt Y h; P« sc ar RMN((, NEW-YOnK STEAMBOATS. 88 ul)its, minds, and a tree- nily itiul sociul circles, lu-es in a population ot [lat has been ilonc, and he good and the intelli- diat ought to be or may cs oflered by New-York •11 of knowledge, more It of public intelligence, learning for the Dnion. lossibly enjoy the advau- ■t some of our cities and tter account what means re become literary in a jblic schools are the best g those of Boston ; and rior to them. Some of t the vast majority, par- arc miserably defective, sily are very respectable £3 of learning, while the he Apprentices' Library, tc, alford valuable means classes of readers. Un- rned are kept too much ) much underrated by the ley exist. Attempts have establish monthly maga- it they have never flour- vledgcd talent cannot be sward, and the publishers I large sum on an uncer- rere employed in writing t would be for tlie country ent of their families or of be done by the inhabitants )f knowledge ; and to the rising generation, 1 think, wo may safely look for it, as well as for the execution of Htill more extensive projects of lienevolenco. And on this hope we may rely without the charge of being visionary in any degree ; for the means are daily increasing, and the hands are innltiplyiiig and strength- ening by which it is to bo acconiplished. ISut 1 have been wandering from my subject, and can seek an excuse for indulging in such elevating topics only in tiie cnnoi)ling view presented by the IJay of New- York, to the traveller who crosses it in one of the great steam- boats whicli daily skim over its surface. Were the shores but of an elevation corresponding with the other features of the scene, there woidd be nothing to regret by the friend of the picturesque. Staten Island approaches nearer than any other part of the surrounding land to what we might wish to see on every side, and presents a pleasing swell, with a variety of lines and hues in its enclosures and crops, the village, and the spacious Quarantine edifices. There are some pretty spots, with pleasant shades, enjoying a view of a water scene, animated by the frequent passage of the finest steamboats. These vessels have now become improved and refined, apparently almost to the grade of rational beings. They seem to a passenger on board half conscious of the prom- ises held out by the newspapers of their speed and punc- tuality, of the hour when their arrival may be expected, and the anxiety of those who await them ; and quite familiar with the shoals and landing-places. You feel their emo- tions, at least their straining and labour under your feet. When you observe their movements from a distance, they appear stUl more as if endued with life and thought. A boat, with a beautiful model and elegant proportions, comes flying over the water almost without disturbing it, rounds a point, and directs her rapid course towards a landing-place. You see that her speed is known, and that her punctuality has been established by long and regular practice : for the persons who have come from a distance to embark have yet scarcely reached the shore, or are just appearing in view ; and the landlord remains at his door until she has reached 80 A STEAMBOAT LANDIN'O. a certain spot, and tlicn leaves it just in Inne to meet her by a leisurely walk. Ther.^ is no hurry, bcause there is no irresulariiy and no un.-ertainty. She cuts the water, bu witlr as little spray as a knife makes ,11 dividing a loal ol bread. There is merely a little risin- of the surlaec under the bow, the wheels scarcely splash the sides of the l)oai as they revolve, and the water .,ci:is a^ain under the sli^m, leaving only a smooth cicatrice ui)on the surhice. fc>he ap- proaches tiie shore like a houiul nosing out his own kennel ; her wheels desist, and she lloats on silently as a feather. For a moment she stops to press against the wharf, and the post to which she is daily fastened : the wheels move gently back, and she is in her place. A little mustering is seen forward, about as much as is witnessed at a horsc-shoemg at a country blacksmith's, and she is again on her way. Not a loud word has been spoken ; yet in that busy moment, Mr. Smith's family have landed, witli their fourteen trunks ; Thomas Brown has saluted his wife, and bidden farewell till to-morrow ; one has landed to shoot or fish in the neigh- bourhood, another has shipped his horse and gig lor his own stable in the city, or a basket of beans for the market, while farewell is waved by friends and acquaintances to mer- chants, fishermen, and others, and the correspondence of the neighbourhood is thrown upon deck m the little mail- bag. Away flies the boat, followed with a few nods and gazes, to return again at the fixed hour, and renew the scene. al a fr ni w fa w bE se ar Y hi 111 y< fn pc R( fn su in thi Pl be Wi sa »iN'a. it in lime to meet her hiirry, be'iiuse there is Slie cuts the watiT, l)iil » ,11 ihviihng a h)iil' of lu- of the suriiiec imder the sides of the bor.l affiiiii iimler the slrrn, II the surfiicc. She ap- ing out his own kennel ; an silently us a feather, ainsi the wharf, and the the wheels move gently little mustering is seen Bssed at a horse-shoeing is again on her way. yet in that busy moment, til their fourteen trunks ; ife, and hidden farewell hoot or fish in the neigh- lorse and gig for his own ans for the market, while 1 acquaintances to mer- 1 the correspondence of deck in tlie little mail- id with a few nods and ed hour, and renew the CHAPTER VI. The Sea-iiliorp — Lons; Dranrli — Uiithini; — .Scenery — Shipwrecks — Form!) of Danger and Modes of Escupe. Long Branch is a favourite resort to the citizens of New- York, and still more so to those of Philadelphia, altliough they have to perform a long monotonous ride, over a sandy path, across a pine plain to reach it, while the route from New-York is by steam, excepting four of the last miles. A description of the place may be given in a few words; yet notliing short of a visit to it, and a long familiarity with its aspect in dillerent states of weather, will give any person an ade(|uate idea of its attractions. I had visited many points of our more northern sea-coast before I saw Long Branch, but had found none of them re- sembling it in all its striking characteristics. Here a smooth and handsome plain extends to the very borders of the sea. You have no uidication of your approach to it in the bleak hills, beds of sand, masses of rock, or clusters of fishing- liuts, which in other places generally prepare you for what you are to behold. On the contrary, when you look out from the hard-jolting Jersey wagon in which you are trans- ported across the state, or from the steamboat-landing at Red Bank, you see retired farms or small villages, or more frequently a smooth road overshadowed by forest-trees, such as you would suppose might extend a hundred miles in any direction. You are surprised, therefore, when, as the horses turn in front of the hotel, you find the grassy plain suddenly terminating, and at the depth of forty feet beneath, observe the roar and tumult of the never-ceasing waves rolling from the very horizon. Little arbours have been erected on the verge of the sandy precipice, furnished with seats, and covered with r M tOTiO nBASfll. jTrccii ItouijliSi whrrr you may nt any lunir ol a i-lcar day ciijov an a(jrcpal)lo sliadr, ami tlio siulit of a wliiK; bcatth cxtciidiiiK several iniU-H tii tlic ri!,'lii and It ft, coiiiinu.illy lashed i>y llie billows of the oeeiiii. At ninlit the scene is often Nlill liner than by day; for then, iho eyes beinijr less called into re(|nisilion amid tlio ne great pleasure in visiting a scene like this, is to wit- ness the natural inlliience which the aspects of the ocean have upon the human mind. 'I'he gay and young, who arc brought in crowds by wealthy parents from the cajjitals, may stand side by side with the solitary invalid, or the fisherman's son, and all participate in the same feelings. We may hear of the good beds, the fine dinners, or some- times of the choice wine furnished to visiters at Long Branch ; but I am happy to believe that most of those who love the place love it for its natural, its real beauties, and go home belter than they came. (Certain it is, that friendships may be hen! cultivated which will be valuable elsewhere, and that impressions worth possessing may be communicated to the young and the old. The scenes which preseni them- selves to the opening eye, and the sounds which strike upon the ear, tend to prepare the feelings for useful instructions ; and if the parent seeks opportunities to convey them, a more favourable place could hardly be found among our fashion- able resorts. On this subject I may, perhaps, say something in the way of brief hints hereafter. For myself, unhappily, I did not come well provided with the means of self-instruc- tion; but I cannot here stop to lament my ignorance or neglect, for I had soon other things to think of. I had de- scended to the beach with a company of bathers, and was deluged by a roaring wave that suddenly rolled up and engulfed us all. Then it was that I first fully realized the amount of walrr-power (as the too technical term is) which is constantly wasted upon the coast, and the cause of the 40 BATHING ON THE COAST. ~r sand-banks which mark the margin of the oiean in all climates and regions. I was suddenly lifterl up, rolled this way and that, and then drawn downwards by a force I had neither time, energy, nor skill enough to oppose, and felt for a moment as if I had owed my life.to a neiglibour who held me up by my bathing-robe. As the returning flood rushed by me, bushels of pebbles rolled rapidiv over my naked feet and against my ancles, as if resolved to deprive me of my only support. Instead of retreating to dry ground, as I wished to do, my companions hurried much fiirther down, apparently drawing me with tliem, to meet another wave, which came foaming on more violently than its predecessor ; and, before I had recovered from the stupifying elfect of the former, I felt myself sealed up tighter and longer than be- fore : eyes, ears, nose, mouth, breath, and all. How little like a man does a man feel in such circumstances ! Plunged in an element foreign to his nature, the use of all his senses entirely suspended, unless the growling in the ears is to be called hearing, and the sensation of cold and wetness is feeling the legs useless, because the feet are lifted above terra firma, or rather the sand and water moving below you ! This is one of tlie cases in which a native American citizen may be suddenly disfranchised. What benefit did I derive at that time from my birth-right ? Of what use was it to me that there were written laws, courts, jurors, lawyers, and judges, that I might have claimed the rights of a citizen in any state of the Union, when here, not twenty feet from high-water mark, I might be taken feloniously, with malice aforethought, and thrown into the jaws of such a beast of a billow, exposed to death, or at least put into great consterna- tion ? Is there no statute for such case made and provided I Is there no writ that will issue against the perpetrators of such an enormity? Who is safe? Wiio can boast of the privilege of existing in this republic, wliile the very judge on the bench, or just off it, if he happens to stop into the water at liong Branch, may be thus suddenly deprived of every right dear to nature ? All this, and more, perhaps, passed through my mind while I remained submerged ; but I can give no adequate idea of t I r r I I s 'J r a F ii n ii s tl 11 c r e ti r c f( a e u b ll b n r d n h 3 COAST. rgin of the ocean in all denly lifted up, rolled this wnwards by a force I had ugh to oppose, and felt for e to a neiglibour who held the returning flood rushed rapidiv over my naked feet Ived to deprive me of my ting to dry ground, as I rried much fiirlher down, m, to meet another wave, ently than its predecessor ; the stupifying elfect of the iighter and longer than be- eath, and all. How little 1 circumstances ! Plunged e, the use of all his senses owling in the ears is to be n of cold and wetness is e the feet are lifted above and water moving below n which a native American hised. What benefit did I -right ? Of what use was ws, courts, jurors, lawyers, limed the rights of a citizen here, not twenty feet from en feloniously, with malice ! jaws of such a beast of a ist put into great consterna- h case made and provided ? igainst the perpetrators of e ? Wiio can boast of the lublic, wliile the very judge 3 happens to stop into the thus suddenly deprived of ssed through my mind while n give no adequate idea of 1 SHIPWRECKS. 41 the state of desperation in which I remained, until I found my head above water, and felt at liberty to breathe, to look, and to spciik. What I was prepared to say I need not iiere record, for it was never uttered. The power which iiad so unceremoniously drawn me into the water was not tliat of a rude coinpaiiion, as I might have supposed, but the irre- sistible torrent which had also borne away my old friends. These now reappeared with me, and were standing beside me, overwhiriincd with a torrent of laughter, and quite un- able to answer my angry interrogatories. My vexation, perhaps, still more excited their mirth, which soon showed itself in a manner that I could not resist ; and after forgetting my late embarrassment, I consented to descend once more into the brine, and had on the whole a delightful batli. By a remarkable provision of nature, which seems de- signed for benevolent purposes as well as that whicii has thrown up the sandbeach, a partial barricade of the same material is generally found heaped up by the waves at a considerable distance from the shore, over which the ap- proaching billows first turn in foam, and begin to lose their force. Its position is marked by a white line, which the eye can trace for miles up and down, parallel to the sinuo^- tics of the shore, and everywhere serving the same pur- pose. Such bars have sometimes proved of use, by re- ceiving vessels when driving on towards a rocky shore be- fore an irresistible storm ; and many a published account of a shipwreck makes mention of them. In many cases, how- ever, vessels have only remained upon these outer bars until so strained as to leak dangerously; and then, after being beaten over them by the force of repeated waves, have sunk before reaching the shore. Every thing relating to shipwrecks is of interest along this coast, where multitudes of vessels of diflerent sizes have been lost, and where fragments of old decks, spars, s to be formed of sand and stones dejmsited there by tiio retiring waves. A causey thus self-constructed from the wreck to the shore has in some instances oll'ered the crew the earliest means of escape ; and in particular cir- cumstances may have proved their only safety. If a vessel should thus be thrown upon a beach when the tide is near its el)l), and the bank be formed in time to allow the crew opportunity to escape over it to the land at low water, they would be saved the hazards attending another llood-tide, the floating of the ship again, with perhaps a change of wind that might drive it into deep water and sink it: to say nothing of a prolonged exposure to wet, cold, fear, fatigue, and hunger. The ship which has been thrown upon such a beach as this, nearly at the height of the tide, and for whicii the sea is rapidly constructing an embankment to the shore, is per- haps in the most /avourable and hopeful condition in which a wreck can -be situated. Yet how replete with inconve- nienbfes, with distresses and dangers, is such a situation to those on board ! The disaster may have occurred within a brief hour of the time when the crew had indulged sanguine hopes of escape from serious injury by the storm, or when, after prolonged labours, suH'erings, and apprehensions, they have neither physical nor mental energy to endure their present trials, or to avail themselves of any favourable cir- cumstances in their situation. They are probably ignorant of the coast on which they are thrown, and involved in the obscurity of an atmosphere troubled with tempests, sur- charged with mist, rain, or Hying spray, and perhaps dark- ened by night. Thus tiie mariner is often kept in anxious suspense, and appreliends the utmost danger even when his escape is almost secured. Sometimes, acting under ill- founded apprehcnsioni of their prospects, lives have been unnecessarily exposed and sacrificed; boats have been prematurely launched and swamped on spots which in a short time might have been passed on foot dry-shod. But how can men be expected always to form and act upon cor- re ^^ Ol sa ar m Si fe 8V ge CO to Ui sai pa an an sal ag the to an( bei an( vie me cas esc GUI to wh Ian apf ren im[ moi and ble, :8. MEANS OF RESCUE. 48 ) resist it in its descent ; St upon the beach, than a ind stones dei)osited there hus self-construetcd from inc instances oll'ered the c ; and in particular cir- only safety. If a vessel ncii when the tide is near in time to allow llie crew D land at low water, they injr luiotlier flood-tide, the crhaps a change of wind Iter and sink it: to say to wet, cold, fear, fatigue, wn upon su("h a beach as Je, and for wliich tlie sea ment to the shore, is per- opeful condition in which flow replete with inconve- jrs, is such a situation to \y have occurred within a ew had indulged sanguine y by the storm, or when, , and apprehensions, they I energy to endure their es of any favourable cir- ley are probably ignorant 'own, and involved in the bled with tempests, sur- spray, and perhaps dark- • is often kept in anxious lost danger even when his etimes, acting under ill- rospects, lives have been iticed; boats have been ped on spots which in a •d on foot dry-shod. But to form and act upon cor- rect opinions, in circumstances so trying and so doubtful ? Who can distinguish between a thousand different parts of our coast, even in the clearest weather, and when sailing safely and prosperously by, even with time to reflect, and to consult books and charts? The hundreds of miles which intervene along the Atlantic border from near Sandy llook to the Cape of Florida, present, with but few exceptions, one uniform app(!arance: low lands and swamps faced with bear lies, over which a forest alone is generally distinguishable, with no prominent mountains or conspicuous capes to give bearings, and few secure harbours to oflVr a refuge. This singular part of the coast, at Lonf Branch and its vicinity, extending for about six miles, is said to be distinguished by one peculiarity, from every other part of the seaboard of the United States. Here alone the arable land extends to the very verge of Neptune's domains, and here are seen the only corn-fields whose outer rows are salted by the spray of the ocean. But this trait, however agreeable and striking to the land traveller, and valuable Xo the farmer who reaps the harvests, affords little advantage to the navigator in enabling him to ascertain his position. How important are some of the devices which the humane and ingenious have invented for the rescue of their fellow- beings exposed to death by shipwreck ! " I have both talked and written to men of influence," said a plain farmer of thia vicinity to me, " on the importance of supplying us with the means of saving men from death, who are every season cast within our view, in the midst of perils which they might escape with our aid, if we had a simple apparatus placed at our command, by which a rope might be thrown from a gun to a ship on shore." Itopeated instances he referred to, in which crews had been lost within a short distance of the land, in most, if not all of which, he felt confident, such an apparatus might have been effectual. The result of hi* remarks was to convince me, that the subject is of sufficient importance to justify the appropriation of a liberal sum of money by our government, to inquire for facts and opinions, and to make experiments. If it should be judged practica- ble, after this, another appropriation should be made to carry 5 WL~ i J 46 NKW-YORK. a good plan into effect. Whatever the apparatu.s miglit be, whether life-lmats of the beat constriuniun, or guns, or mor- tars for throwing ropes, it should be mounted on carriages, supplied with harness, and placed in the charge of some humane and responRil>le individual, or at the direction of the town-authorities. From the interest felt by the respectable inhabitants of this part of the coast, in the safety of men, and sometimes females, thus exposed to desperate hazards and sufferings under their eyes, I am persuaded that the most laudable exertions would ever be made for their safety. For my own part, if I were to be shipwrecked, I would willingly trust myself to the care of the hardy and humane individuals whom I have known in this vicinity. Those alone who have had experience in the delicate task of con- ducting a common boat through the surf and over the breakers, can now be trusted to transport men to the land, even when the sea is but in a moderate state of agitation ; but if life-boats were at hand, other arms might be employed in an emergency, beside those of the most skilful fisher- men. CHAPTER VIT. New-York — Books — The Apparatus of Literature — Conversations with Booksellers on Puhlic Taste, &c. — A Frien ' returned from a Tour to Europe — Foreign Feelings anil Ignorance respecting Ame- rica — Varying aspects of the Streets of the Metropolis — Impressioni from observing them. It is strange to see how much better the public taste is often understood by booksellers than authors ; and with what certainty they can sometimes forctel the fate of a book after hearing only a brief description of it, or after glancing at the table of contents or the title-page, than the man who studied and laboured over the pages for months or years, and lay awake whole nights to cut and piece it in conformity with the state of society. This fact, which no PniNTINO-OFFICES, &.C. 47 the apparatun miglit be, riuniun, or guns, or mor- ic mouiUed on carriages, in the charge of some or at the direction of the it fell by the respectable i8t, in the safety of men, ed to desperate hazards am persuaded that the be made for their safety. 3 shipwrecked, I would f the hardy and humane n this vicinity. Those he delicate task of con- the surf and over the nsport men to the land, lerate state of agitation ; irms might be employed the most skilful fisher- m. Liternture — Conversations — A Frien ' returned from a I Ignorance respecting Ame- Ihe Metropolis — Inipressioni l)etter the public taste is ban authors ; and with brctel the fate of a book n of it, or after glancing itle-page, than the man le pages for months or to cut and piece it in y. This fact, which no one can doubt after proper inquiry, is so much in opposition to common rules applying to other subjects, that I sought light on it while in New- York. We always should expect to find a tailor better acquainted with the size of his customers* shoulders than anybody else, and more likely to discover whether a coat be too narrow to lit, too long in the sleeves, or too tight under the arms. But it is not so with your author and his work. He deliberates for weeks or months upon his subject, then upon his plan, then on the size of his book, the mode and time for its appearance ; and after having fixed all tliese, and changed his intention over and over again, and at length completed his work as he finally deter- mines, he is the most anxious man ia the nation till he ascertains whether he has succeeded or failed. This he now feels utterly unable to judge of, until he has facts to form an opinion upon, and actually sees whether or not his book has sold. But not so with the bookseller. He has rules, or instinct, or some other guide, by which he often can judge of the fate of a work, before it has been grasped after or rejected by a single customer ; and, as if by some secret electricity, a uniform presentiment concerning a book some- times pervades the whole trade from the moment of its ap- pearance, or even from a very early period after its an- nouncement. There are cases in which they have experience to refer to, and then they may prejudge as we might the shoemaker, who had pinched us in the toes, and was about to shoe a neighbour with still larger feet than our own. But, in the great majority of cases, the bulk of the booksellers do not know the author, or are not well acquainted with the subject on which he writes, or both, and therefore cannot judge of what is to come from what has happened. To show what kind of satisfaction I got from some con- versation on books during my stay in New-York, I will give a brief recapitulation of what I heard in some of the printing-oflices and book-stores. Some of these are exceed- ingly large and rich ; and the grand review of the whole typographic park and batteries of the capital is worthy of the attention of an intelligent traveller. The most mag. NEW-YORK. nificent presses in the world are racking and groaning in a hundred difl'erent streets, from Messrs. Harper's mammoth power-press downwards, lii mutter. I only want to nil the fault of the book- fi'tuy copies, sir V curtcd I'ricnd, just landed corner. Amid the bustle ly countenance ; and out nust have struck his ears ready on his tongue, like ilings such a meeting ex< a friend, though changed, 8, how much they must original mind, how much iding the gold from the stores must have been told how foreign scenes id assured me that I had rope," said he, " has put ht, in which I have been rard. And what a com- ire the waves and storms jects of interest and im- perfectly known as they upon the most influential tly contemplate us, and led glass and misty air. their conceptions crude as much reason, perhaps, of us on some points, as nerits on others. I regret of Britain appear, so far xceedingly ill acquainted rOREION VIEWS or AMERICA. 03 with the geography as wril a. the institutions and state of society m thiH country. \Vc are, indeed, perhaps, too nmch mchned to be surprised at (his an.l to pity it. We converse of England with every advantage, because our very school- books, as well as our libraries, were Lngli.h, until vvithin our own recollection ; and many of us in our earliest years were taught more of ih«ir history, geography, biography, an.l even ecclc8.asi.cal an.l political aflairs, tha.. of our own. Hut their course .. education, in all its grades, has little more refer- ence to America than it had before Columbus sailed from Spam. 1 he.r instructors want teaching before Ihey can be competent on this branch of knowledge; and whence then 18 It possible lor the people to be well informed of our con- dition ? Our tea.^hers, on the contrary, our fathers and our countrymen, until recently, have directed almost all their attent.on to foreign lands, and rea.l only foreign books. When therefore .nte lligeni men in England, Scotland, and Ireland expressed their surprise at my familiarity with Lnghsh books and men, the geography and scenery of the country, I could not but feel that they over-estimated it, Americl '='""'^»'«<1 " ^'i"' 'heir own ignorance of " VVe ought to exert ourselves more than we do to inform our Luropean brethren concerning our country and our- selves, to remove erroneous impressions, and prevent their failing into new mistakes. But how shall this bo done? ui r%v!"'l ''""" ""' periodical publications or our books? Which ol them would do us justice, and at the same time be instructive to ihem ? In far too many of our writers an affectation of foreign sentiments and foreign style removes every American feature from their productions, while m others the perverted views and degraded language of the low level from which they have lately risen would at once mislead and disgust a person seeking for information con- cern.ng our sta.e and society. Some publications we have of an elevated tone, and a just and commanding influence at home and abroad. But these are either scientific or devoted to literature in general, or at least so much more designed for the use of ourselves than of others, that they would not 54 NEW-YORK. ■erve their purpose. Foreigners are ignorant of the very elements of our society. They need to know the indi- viduals of whom it is composed, and comprehend the mutual action and reaction of domestic life and the public institu- tions. They can neither conjecture at the application of our laws to our circumstances, nor understand what were the circumstances which required them ; much less can they explain the effects which are produced. They wonder at us, as at a new specimen of mechanism ; and our country excites as ill-defiaed admiration as did the ship May-flower among the Indians of Massachusetts Bay, when the Pilgrims arrived on the coast. They are slow to ascertain the causes of its motion, and never can resolve the forces by which it is impelled. Still, here is the object constantly before them ; and tlie more they gaze the more they are in- terested. Now I do not see how they are to be taught, otherwise than as an apprentice learns his trade. Familiar- ize them with the ordinary details, as we are familiarized with our own society in childhood. Do we not understand Scottish life at different periods of history, through the familiar scenes presented by Scott, better than we could learn them from almost any investigation we might make into history and legislation 1 Let some of their intelligent men come and spend months in our families, conforming to the customs of the people, and observing, without preconceived opinions, how society goes on. After sufficient attention to the practical operation of our system, they would be able to enlighten others in the grammar of our society. Until this, or some equally simple and sensible measure shall be adopted, we siiall be overrated by some, underrated by many, and annually inspected by tourists, who will by turns make us laughing-stocks and objects of disgust to ourselves and others. " But, seriously, this subject has struck me with much force. All misrepresentations of us are injurious at home and abroad. It is of immense consequence to the world, that all mankind should see what we know of the success with which political, civil, and religious liberty have been put to in effectual, harmonious, and most happy operation among us. thej of a cnal is n gree and resp lear stat( priv exis diffu kno\ Ne N only earil &c., are abroi genti frieni show tries housi sketc come heard and a FOREIGN RESIDENTS. 55 I are ignorant of the very r need to know the indi- and comprehend the mutual life and the public institu- cture at the application of nor understand what were them ; much less can they reduced. They wonder at L-hanism; and our country as did the ship May-flower etts Bay, when the Pilgrims are slow to ascertain the r can resolve the forces by e is the object constantly gaze the more they are in- )w they are to be taught, learns hia trade. Familiar- lils, as we are familiarized )d. Do we not understand 'history, through the familiar r than we could learn them e might make into history their intelhgent men come , conforming to the customs bout preconceived opinions, sufficient attention to the !m, they would be able to of our society. Until this, lensible measure shall be i by some, underrated by r tourists, who will by turns jects of disgust to ourselves has struck me with much }f us are injurious at home consequence to the world, it we know of the success ligious liberty have been put nost happy operation among us. They ought to know,— what they certainly would if they knew us well, — that all men may live in the enjoyment of a similar state of society, whenever circumstances shall enable them to try it. They would see, too, that our system is not necessarily unfriendly to learning in any of its de- grees; that influence is not necessarily denied to the good and allowed to the bad ; that the tendency of things in any respect is not to degradation. On the contrary, they would learn that knowledge and virtue, being incHspcnsable to the state, and vice and debasement of every kind dangerous to private, because to public interests, the strongest motives exist in such a country to cultivate the purest virtue, and to diffuse the utmost knowledge, while facilities, before un- known, are daily offered for the propagation of both. CHAPTER VIII. New- York continued— Foreign Residents and Visiters^Foreiim Books. New- York is, indeed, multum in parvo, and contains not only individuals from most of the travelling nations of the earth, but societies of French, Spaniards, Germans, Italians, &c., of considerable extent. For these and others there are particular haunts. It is no longer necessary to go abroad to see the habits of Europeans : by proper means, a gentleman may procure an introduction to respectable and friendly foreign residents, whose domestic arrangements show much of the peculiarities of their respective coun- tries ; while at several boarding-houses, hotels, and eating- houses, by taking a single meal, you m;iy get a lively sketch of several distant (sountries at a time. The latest comers from Europe and Asia are generally to be seen or heard of at Delmoiiico's in the course of « ordinary" hours; and a person has only to keep his eyes and ears open to get 66 NEW-YORK. some of the ideas they bring with tliem of the countenance, dress, language, manners, and habits of many of his brethren of the human race whom he will never see. Now and then an indiviilual may be found aiiung our countrymen who takes peculiar pleasure in bringing such peculiaritiea to light. Such was an old bachelor I could name, of an apparently ascetic character, who always looks grave, and never smiles. He is very thin, with a sour look, and goes wrapped up carefully to the ears, so that he seems to be always cold, let the weather be never so pleasant, and displeased even if things go on never so well. He takes pains to draw toreigiiers into conversation by using some word in their language in speaking to a waiter; and, though he cannot speak a sentence in any foreign tongue, with attentive looks and occasional grunts and nods, makes them suppose he comprehends all they say, and will some- limes sit and hear one talk a half hour without betraying his ignorance of what is spoken. Others, and more rational men, I have known, who liked occasionally to resort to such places to familiarize them- selves with the languages and habits of different countries. This may be made a useful practice ; for as the mind im- proves by exercise, so does the heart by expanding its feel- ings, and indulging benevolence towards many and various subjects. No one can spend a few moments in the society of intelligent and virtuous foreigners, without strongly real- izing that the study of man is to be pursued among our species, and not in a library. There is often great expo- sure to the youth in bringing him into contact unguardedly with all foreigners he may meet ; but if he is to be taught living languages, 1 would by all means put him among per- sons of pure character who speak them, that he might apply his views to a legitimate object, viz. the acquisition of valu- able facts. One is not likely to realize the number of books in foreign languages annually demanded in our couiiTy, until he sur- veys such of the stores as are principally devoted to the sale of them. Compared with floods of our own books, it IS iiu ar( it I mi pii (hi ral 'I'l gil for gai ii: tin to to ev( boi bci wc wo slu be, nal ful to CV( as th£ tin hem of the countenance, J of many of his brethren !vcr see. Now and then ig our countrymen who ig such peculiarities to J name, of an apparently ooks grave, and never a sour look, and goes so that he seems to be never so pleasant, and lever so well. He takes versation by using some king to a waiter; and, ce in any foreign tongue, I grunts and nods, makes tliey say, and will some- If hour without betraying I have known, who liked ;ices to familiarize them- its of different countries, ce; for as the mind im- art by expanding its feel- (wards many and various w moments in the society •rs, without strongly real- ) be pursued among our riiere is often great expo- into contact unguardedly but if he is to be taught eans put him among per- them, that he might apply z. the acquisition of valu- iumber of books in foreign jur coun'ry, until he sur- principally Jevoted to the lods of our own books, it FOREION HOOKS. ft7 is true thoy form hut a tsniall stream ; but yet they are more immcrous ilian would be supposed. It is a pity that there are among ilu-m so many of tlie vicious I'rench novels ; but it might be expected that the injudicious instruction of so many of our youth in a language, which is improperly re- garded by many parents as a merely ornamental accom- piishinent, without any care being taken to make it an intro- (hiction to prolitaI)le associates or useful books, Mould natu- rally lead too many to dangerous sources of amusement. 'J'lie truth probably is, that many a Trench author, unintelli- gible to the parent, is in the hands of a ciiild whose fondness for it arises from a less commendaliie source than a love of gaining knowledge. O, this business of learning modern languages is full of abuses. One abuse, however, some- times prevents a greater one. It is a comfort, in this view, to redect, that probably not one in ten of those who pretend to learn French ever reads it ; and not one in fifty, perhaps, ever speaks it. A great deal of scirn(!e comes into the country in French books, and our ])hysicians are, to a good extent, I believe, benefited by it, and of course the people. F'rom Germany we new import a great many Greek, Latin, and Hebrew works at very low prices, so that multitudes of instructers, students, and private gentlemen are, and many more may be, furnished with classics, and the (Scriptures, in their origi- nals, for moderate sums, which would have been most cheer- fully paid i)y some of my friends in years past, and sufficed to fill libraries which were unforiunately too empty. When- ever Hebrew, Greek, and Latin shall be as generally taught, as easily learnt, and as practically used .;s they may be, the supply of this branch of literature must be swelled many times iieyond its present bounds. The French and (Jennaii novels form a pernicious mass of books, of vast amount, annually disgorged by the press, upon a world that is reiulcred the more tridy poor the richer it is in such productions. The (Jerman light literature (as it is called), thanks to their sublimated and ghost-making brain.s, is so strange and uncouth that it can scarcely be brought to touch this world, and therefore produces but little 6 88 NEW-YORK. T direct evil influence upon men's lives. Their novels tend to draw ofT the mind to " nonentities and quiddities ;" and as it is chiefly objects of sense which, when improperly pre- sented, tend to evil, tiicie is a negative advantage in those ridiculous phantasies which possess no positive excellence. To look at the machinery of such works, you might think them weapons raised to afllict the world ; but they are so crooked and wavering in the hand, that it is but seldom they can be made to hit it to injure. Their writers waste time, it is true, for their readers ; and l)y removing the enclosiires and land-marks of probability and connnon sense, turn minds, like cattle, into estrays ; but still they do not infu- riate and madden them as the novel-writers of France. Many of these are notoriously vicious and corrupting at the present day; for coming down to society as it is, packing off ghosts, and releasing virtues, vices, and epithets from tlie personifications in which they have been bound by the Germans, they lead up the most corrupt characters, arrayed in attractive garbs, and think that whoever can sugar over the blackest fiend can make the best book. Booksellers themselves, who deal out such works to our public, sometimes shudder, like apothecaries, at the deadly nature of their poisonous wares. I visited a vessel just from Scotland, with about one hun- dred and fifty passengers ; and, oh ! the inquiries concern- ing friends, and news, and luggage, and children, — all in a broad dialect! And then the groups of Swiss and German emigrants who move about in strange raiment, generally taking the middle of the streets, in Indian file, gazing, but, i'rom their frequency, no longer a gazing-stock — cocked hats, long queues, breeches justified on round their haunches, as if never to come off. I have heard people complain in this country of what " poor folks" must do. But in Europe they find, througli necessity, they can do ten times more. I saw one day a crowd in the street, caused by a momentary obstruction. I examined it in passing, and found that an Alsatian woman, with a monstrous bundle upon i.^r head, and an infant in her arms, had suddenly stopped to pin the frock of one of the children who were accompanying her ; . Their novels tend to nd quiddities ;" and as when improperly prc- ivc advantage in those no positive excellence, orks, you might think *'orld ; but they are so lat it is but seldom they lieir writers waste time, enioving the enclosiires 1 connnon sense, turn t still they do not inl'u- >vel-writers of France, 'icious and corrupting ivn to society as it is, tues, vices, and epithets ley have been bound by ost corrupt characters, link that whoever can make the best book. 3ut such works to our thecaries, at the deadly nd, with about one hun- i the inquiries conccrn- , and children, — all in a s of Swiss and German mge raiment, generally Indian tile, gazing, but, ing-stock — cocked hats, ound their haunches, as people complain in this St do. But in Europe n do ten times more. 1 caused by a momentary sing, and found that an bundle upon i.^r head, lenly stopped to pin the fere accompanying her ; T SCENE FROM BROOKLYN. 69 and this she at length effected with all her embarrassments, and proceeded as if it were no extraordinary thing. When we observe the movements of men near at hand, the motives of their exertions and the results in which they end often excite our latighter ; while, if wo contemplate them from a distance, and especially in large bodies, there is often sometliing impressive ami even exalted in the emotions wliich we experience. The very greatness of the mass, like the mountain or the sea, swells the mind whicii embraces it, and keeps its faculties, like so many arms and hands, in a state of tension, which, if not distressing, is at least so tire- some as to remove all disposition to ridicide. When we descend to some little sid)ject, the mind finds its powers in a great measure unoccupied ; and as this is an unnatural state, it seeks employment in making deeper investigations and new combinations, which, in the case of a subject abounding ii such self-contradictions and unreasonableness as man, must inevitably lead one to pity and another to ridi- cule. Historians and warriors understand this matter, and endeavour to keep the eye of the world or of posterity fixed upon men in masses, or on individual^ at a distance. They often obscure, conceal, patch up, or pervert the truth, by representing the individuals in any thing but their every-day dress. There is much that is ludicrous in the motley crowds rushing through Broadway at difl'erent hours ; but when the city is seen in one view, the siglit is a solemn one. If you are called to depart, or if you by any chance arrive, in the dead of night, the vacancy and siitnce of the streets are ex- ceedingly impressive. Two hundred and forty thousand people obeying the laws of nature at least in repose. The dead of night, strictly speaking, lasts but a very siiort time in the principal thoroughfares ; for the termination of the play at about twelve, and of fashionable parties at one, keeps up a rumbling of carriages for an hour or two, until the most remote routes have been performed, and the horses are re- turned to their stables. After tliis is over, half hours and even hours of almost total silence sometimes intervene, while the watchman, in the dome of the City Ilall, proclaims to 60 NEW-TORK. tho ears of the sick and tlic watclifiil tliat another day is approaching, wiiether desired or apprehended by them. A cannon is fired at break of day on Governor's Island ; but before this the lines of milk, l)read, and butchers' carts are in motion, and some come rattling down the island from above, while others are collecting at the ferries on the Long Island and Jersey shores, and all are soon dinning tiie streets. From the heights of Brooklyn you may hear their rattling, increasing from i'eeble beginnings, until, joined by the drays proceedhig from the north to the south part of the city to their stands, it swells into an uniniermitted roar, like the sound of Niagara at Queenston, to stop not till midnight. Some time after daylight, while the lamps at the steamboat docks are still glimmering, and those in the streets which, by mistake, have had oil enough, tlie first smoke begins to rise from the houses of labourers in the upper wards. Some five or ten early risers are just putting sparks to wood or coal ; and their example is so contagious, that fires are speedily blazing in every house and almost every chimney in the city. In the cold season this is a singular sight ; and when the wind is from the south in the morning, the heavy cloud which generally overhangs the city is blown north- ward, leaving the Battery in the light of the sun, while many of the other parts are deeply obscured. Soon after sunrise, floods of daily emigrants from the upper wards, meeting at Broadway and Canal-street, pour down to the wharves, the mechanics' shops, and the houses in building, many of them with convenient little tin-kettles, containing their dinners and preparations for heating them, all bound to their work. Then come the clerks of all degrees, the youngest generally first : and these, in an hour or therebouts, give jdace to their masters, who How down with more dignity, but scarcely less speed, to the counting-rooms of the commercial streets, hundreds of them, especially in unfavourable weather, in the omnibuses, which render tlie street so dangerous now and at thrcR or four o'clock in the afternoon. Ere these crowds have disappeared, they become iTosscd and mingled with some of the fourteen thousand children who go to the public and primary schools at nine, and an unknown number who S ifiil tliat niiother dny is irehciulcd by them. y oil Governor's Island ; cad, and buteliers' carts ig down the island from , the ferries on the Long soon dinning tiic streets. may hear their rattling, ntii, joined by the drays juth part of the city to icrmitted roar, like the ) stop not till midnight. lamps at the steamboat se in the streets which, lie first smoke begins to ic upper wards. Some Iting sparks to wood or ntagious, that fires are I almost every chimney is a singular sight ; and tiic morning, the heavy he city is blown north- it of the sun, while many ,'d. Soon after sunrise, upper wards, meeting at jwn to the wharves, the I building, many of them tainiiig their dinners and bound to their work. I, the youngest generally bouts, give jilace to their e dignity, but scarcely ' tiie commercial streets, voiirable weather, in the so dangerous now and oon. Ere these crowds )she morning, wlicn only they aie truly delij-litful. The Hay of New-York is often eonii)aicd with that of Naples ; and from cxpressittiis I have seen in ioine of the newspapers (which are admitted to be the most aiitheniic records in the world). It iimst greatly transcend it in some important particulars. So far as I have been ai)le to compare the two, I am de- cidedly of the opinion that the bay of our commercial me- tropolis is incomparably before that of Naples in eels and drum-fish, and that this point of superiority vastly outweighs the mere circumstance that the latter is thirty miles wide, has Capri and Ischia, instead of Governor's and Gibbet Islands, Vesuvius in the place of Paulus Hook, and a range of mountains for the Jersey shore. I therefore bade adieu to the city with less regret when I recollected that her com- mercial enterprise and prosperity are so great, and licr pros- pects so brilliant, as to hiduce the simple to presume that she is equally peerless in every thing else, and to have claimed for her a character which fate has decreed she can never possess. The truth is, like a village beauty, New- \ork is believed by her admirers to be the paragon of science, taste, and all things ; because she excels the known world in what they think of greater value. The passage of Hell Gate is very interesting under certain circumstances. When the sun is low, either at morning or evening, the sloping light has a pretty ellect among the smooth green lawns, the weeping willows, the tasteful manr sions, and the little white boat and bathing-houses on the western shore of the bay. As the sloop, under the cheer- ing influence of a brisk breeze, stretches from side to side, in its labours to stem the current, these objects are presented to the eye under a great variety of aspects ; and the turbu- lence of tlie water rushing over the rocks at the Gate, so like tlie agitated crowd of the city streets, redoubles in tlis traveller's mind the beauties of the tranquil scenes on shore. We look, therefore, on the retired retreat of the murciiant 66 Tlli: EAST RIVER. 7 with some participiition of iUp pleasure cnjoycul by Uie family Kroiips, now iuul tlicii si'cii niiiil)iiii)r ul liisurc along the rocks, or seatcil upon lln- grass ni'iir ihe inarijin ol" the triuuiuil hay, which often relleets the features of tiiat attrac- tive scene. If night hcftins to close around us, or if a threatening thunder-siiowcr assails us in this remarkable |)ass, we may have some faint idea of those scenes of dread and danger which have here been so often experienced by vessels under the equinox, or in a violent hurricane. What a re- verse to tiie trancpiil enjoyments of the summer residence must be presented l)y the signal of distress heard at night between claps of thunder, or to the gay party on the rocks by the coroner's jury silting in the arbour, over the body of some shipwrecked stranger. Kip's Kay rentinded me so strongly of the retreat of General Washington from Long Island, that my imagination depicted several of the painful scenes which followed it, as we sailed along near the spot where they had occurred. The guardian care of Providence over our feeble army was plainly shown at several important epochs of our Uevolu- tionary War, but in no case, 1 believe, more conspicuously than when the British were ready to destroy or to capture it on Long Island. The hasty redoubts and embankments, now fast disappearing there under the plough and the street inspector's rod, attest the zeal with which the patriotic militia of the neighbouring states laboured for the defence of the capital ; but nothing can give a lively picture of the trying circumstances of the time but the few aged survivors of that period. " 1 was a mere boy," said a venerable friend, " but hearing that the city was in danger, sat up late at night to cast bidlets, and in the morning hurried off without leave, to join the army. I spent part of the first night of my active ser- vice standing sentinel on one of the advanced stations near Flatbush, during a tremendous thunder-storm, the lightning of which shone on the enemy's tents and arms, then in full view. Of course I had time to make my own reflections on war, and the desperate condition of the country." With- out I of 01 draw to b( Whil ever, the II instai post At were IjCC. count sarve in th( says are, s upon says I lookei with 1 on 'en Gen. lie, m be sai 'em. he hac 'I'herc to hav riddled would him fin Crol in gre; the cor fellow-i The agriculi rear of ■:r. Inisurc enjoyed by the riiintiiiii(f III liisurc along I near ihe inarijiii ol" the ic featurps oC tluit allrac- 118, or if 11 tlirealening cmarkablc pass, wc may lies of (Irt-ail aiul danger c.xpt;rirnc(;d by vessels iiiirricanc. AVhat a rc- of the summer residence r distress heard at night ! gay parly on the roeks arbour, over the body ol' rongly of the retreat of dand, that my imagination nes which followed it, as rhere they had occurred, over our feeble army was nt epochs of our Uevolu- lievc, more conspicuously to destroy or to capture it loubts and embankments, the plough and the street with which the patriotic I laboured for the defence ve a lively picture of the )Ut the few aged survivors srable friend, " but hearing up late at night to cast 1 otl' without leave, to join rst night of my active ser- Lhe advanced stations near under-storm, tlic lightning ;nts and arms, then in full uke my own reflections on , of the country." With AOKII ULTIRK. 07 out Che a,d o( a thick niisi, which covered the movements of our army, our retreat woul.l have been discover.Ml and drawn on a g.neral attack. The outposts had b,.en or.iered to be kept occ„p„.,l till lU, lasl. and then to b,- given up. While .some „l ihe tr.n.ps w,,e yet waiting to « .nb.uk, hoi. •;v.>r, Ihecomrnan.lerof one ofihem, who had misunderstood tl"' ..rder, marched down to the shore. He was ordrred "istan.ly back; and, s.rang.. as it may seem, reoccupied his post without the observation of tiie enemy. At the battle of White Plains some of' our old soldier. were exasperatc.I bryond nu.asure by the con.lurt of (ieneral l^oo. » I was at tl... buttle of Whit,- Plains," «aid an old countryman, " and lor want of a better, belonged to the re sarve ol colours. I suppose you know what that is. Well m tlH| battle, I heard a kind of a rumpus behind me; and says I, they re a going to cut off our retreat. I'm afraid thev are. says our sargcanf. And says he to me, will you fall upon them m our rearT Says I, yes; and' in fro'nt too says I. lor I was young m them days. Well, just then I looked, and see his excellency, (;eneral Washington, coming M'.th his 1, e-guard. They were on a brisk trot ; and some on en, had to eanter to keep up. He rode right up to (-en. Lee, and says he, general, why don't you fight 1 Says he, my men won't stand it. Says his excellency (I won't be sartm he said you lie; but he said), you han't tried em And there we were all in a hurry to march on; but i e had been bribed with Uritish gold : there's no doubt on't. Ihere waan t a man there but what would have been dad to have h.s excellency say the word-and they would have ridd ed him iiner than any sieve you ever see. Ever>- one would have had a push at liim: they would have riddled hiin hner than snuff." Croton River, near which this battle was fought, will be m great danger of being carried to New- York, whenever the corporation shall care one half as much about what their fellow-caizens drink, as they do about getting their votes. The shores ol the East River show little improvement in agriculture; an art in which our countrymen are far in the rear of some other nations. There is every reason to be- ' es THE EAST KUEK. lieve, that judicious treatment would soon double the product of tliese fields. But what is to be expected in a land where learning lias long been ranged in array against that most important science, where the colleges are ashamed to admit even its name on their lists of studies, where its instruments are despised by the student, and the aspirant at book-know- ledge casts from him every mark of that most honourable profession, as something incompatible with his lofty aims? How can it be expected that our fields should be subjected to such systems as the wisest and most eidightened men might devise, while the most frivolous topic has the prefer- ence over agriculture in the company of tliose whose ex- ample is powerful in society: while our children are kept from a knowledge of the plainest of its principles, though drilled for months and years on the firt.-ek parlic-les, or see thousands squandered to make them French parrots and peacocks. Here pardon me for a digression. In the Granditone Academy the pupils were trained to look upon the farmers' sons of that town and county as beings of an inferior na- ture, thouirh the ymWic prejudice against it, which was thus greatly fostered, was constantly counteracting the labours of the principal and teachers ; and I believe that its " liberal friends" generally would have been more unwilling to have a boy skilled in the care of an orcliard, or the rearing of fowls, tiian caught stealing eggs or apples. The manual la- bour schools deserve the thanks of the country for breaking through such miserable prejudices. But they need the active and immediate co-operation of good parents, who should make agricultural, or at least horticultural labour a regular daily employment, for the moral and intellectual, as well as the physical benefit of their children. What youth would not derive real gratilication fiom seeing the shrub or the tree springing from the earth he had softened with that vigorous arm which is now more honourably em- ployed in swinging a fashionable walking-stick? Whose health might not be improved or guarded by the most invigo- rating of all exercise in the open air ? Whose intelligence would not be cultivated by the application of arithmetic to thj obi pul nol to the thti spi Pn i this of! wh enc in as i him to I and wer con whi One yea whc ovei was and the the brou then siibj actii mel( whe In a long polit VEK. 1(1 soon double the product ; expected in a land where in array against that most eges are ashamed to admit idies, where its instruments the aspirant at book-know- k of that most honourable atible with his lofty aims 1 fields should be subjected and most eidightened men olous topic has the prefer- npany of those whose ex- hile our children are kept !st of its principles, though the Gireek panicles, or see them French parrots and ission. In the Granditone d to look upon the farmers' IS beings of an inferior na- . y"'«inst. it. which was thus counteracting the labours ot 1 1 believe that its " liberal een more unwilling to have 1 orchard, or the rearing of or apples. The manual la- of the country for breaking lices. But they need the lion of good parents, who least horticultural labour a the moral and intellectual, t of their children. What ratilication fiom seeing the I the earth he had softened i now more honourably em- ble walking-stick? Whose - guarded by the most invigo- >n air 1 Whose intelligence application of arithmetic to PETER PUACTICAL's FARM. 69 the calculations of labour, wages, and prices, the practical observation of plants, animals, and minerals in the great public cabinet and museum of nature ? Whose habits might not be hedged in from evil, if the recreations of the day led to more lofty associations and meditations, tempted him into the fields at daybreak, gave him a keener relish for plain food than the fashionable cook eyn excite with all his sauce and spices, and make him long for repose at the hour which Providence has assigned to it ? It would be well for other places besides the shores of this strait, called the East River, if they were tlie residence of such men as my old friend Peter Practical, of Study work, who, without the advantages of a fashionable friend to influ- ence him, did, as a man of common sense will sometimes do in his circumstances, train up his sons to "ride horse," as it was called,— not with a lackey, but, with a plough be- hind them ; to rise, not with the headache at eight or nine, to hot rolls and coffee, but with daybreak, to go to pasture, and milk the milk they were to drink for breakfast. They were seen accompanying their father in the spring, planting corn in company, and listening to his remarks and questions, which were full of originality, cheerfulness, and good sense. One had the cattle under his particular care the whole year round; another was supervisor of the sheep; a third, who had shown a mechanical turn, was put in authority over the tools and implements ; and little Tom, the fourth, was often heard asking questions of them all, assisting them and his father by turns, studying the habits of the fowls, the sheep, and the oxen, and looking further every day into the various interesting things around him. Every season brought new employments, pleasures, and instructions to them all ; and the father often asked their opinions on such subjects as they coidd understand, and encouraged them by acting on their suggestions, about the planting of water- melons out of sight from the road, strengthening the fence where the cattle threatened to get in, or putting scarecrows in a better position. He kept them at the district-school as long as it was open, and made ihem the cleanest and most polite children there ; and when the school ceased, he de- 7 " I 70 THE EAST RIVBR. voted an hour at least in the day to the instruction of his boys, and those of his neighbourhood in his own house. Scarcely was this practice entirely infringed upon eveii in the midst of planting or of harvest. 1 never was in a house in which learning appeared to be more highly respected. He had a small library, containing solid works of his father's day and his own ; and few people ever treated good books with more regard. Of useless or injurious ones, however, his children were taught to speak in terms of contempt or abhorrence ; and as the rule of the house on this, as on many other subjects, was to weigh every thing in the balance of practical usefulness, it was easily and generally justly applied. When the Granditone Academy announced that chemistry and natural philosophy were lo be taught there, he sent Richard to see whelher he could get any thing out of the instructions in those branches which might be turned to account. It was soon apparent, however, that scarcely any thing of these branches was taughl, so much time was occupied in the classes of French (though without any hazard of learning to speak it); of music, without learning to sing; of rhetoric, without getting any thing to say ; and of compo- sition, without obtaining an idea worth writing. Richard, therefore, came home, at the end of one quarter, with little more to communicate than a list of definiticms of learned terms, which his father told him were worth about as much aa the names of a set of farming instruments to a person ignorant of their forms and uses. Having however been obliged to purchase some elementary works on these in- valuable sciences, he brought them home, and from these much important information was derived, and the names of books still more valuable to the farmer, who was soon able to make solid additions to his library, and to put in practice the principles they inculcated. If the proprietor of any of these tracts of lanil ..long the East River c(»uld see the farm of Peter Practical, or even the account of its annual products in cattle, vegetables, fruit, &c., with the simple but judicious and truly scientific means by which extraordinary results are there produced, he would wish that some of his family might take up his resic migh that obne: metr( the p part can t Inth one c purcl once bers I remai from Th coasti ance, refugi theS interv lets tl of wn the ni ally p are s house impor vent < snow J I w friend a stro wards and y< would Not farmei with V to the instruction of his Dod in his own house, infringed upon eve;i in I never was in a house more highly respected, olid works of his father's ever treated good books injurious ones, however, in terms of contempt or he house on this, as on ivery thing in the balance lily and generally justly nadcmy announced that ivere lo be taught there, could get any thing out es which might be turned t, however, that scarcely lughl, so much time was hough without any hazard without learning to sing ; ig to say ; and of compo- worth writing. Richard, »f one quarter, with little of definiticms of learned ere worth about as much ; instruments to a person Having however been tary works on these in- im home, and from these lerived, and the names of rmer, who was soon able iry, and to put in practice e tracts of lantl ..long the ' Peter Practical, or even CIS in cattle, vegetables, icious and truly scientific iulis are there produced, amily might take up his LONG ISLAND BOVNO. 71 residence in the neighbourhood. To this, however, there might be an objection : for it is stated, on good authority, that in one place on Long Island, where an intelligent observer would exclaim, " Why is this not the garden of the metroplis?" there has been a secret association among the people, to effect the exclusion of every person from that part of the country in which Mr. Practical lives. But how can this be effected ? inquires one of my republican readers. In this way: if a piece of ground is to be sold at auction, one or more of the society attends, and if it is likely to be purchased by any one suspected of such an origin, he at once outbids him, and the loss is divided among the mem- hers of the association, who appear to believe that w' at remains to them of their worldly estates has thus been saved from destruction. The northern shore of Long Island, unfortunately for the coasting trade, with few exceptions, is of a uniform appear- ance, and has few harbours where even a sloop may find refuge from a northerly storm. A steep sand-bank boundf the Sound on the south, almost in its whole extent, and long intervals are generally founu between the few bays and in- lets that break its uniformity. It is surprising that the cases of wreck and loss of life have not been more frequent ; for the number, variety, and value of the cargoes wiiich annu- ally pass through this great channel of domestic commerce are surprisingly great, and fast increasing. The light- houses, which, now shine like diamond pins on almost every important headland, do what human precaution can to pre- vent disasters : but what aid can they afford in misty or snowy weather ? I was reminded of the anxious night once spent by a friend in a steamboat at the mouth of yonder harbour, with a strong gale blowing in, and the vessel, with her head to- wards It, revolving her ponderous wheels with all her might, and yet barely able to hold the station which no anchor would have enabled her to maintain. Not far under our lee was the spot where an enterprising farmer's son, from a retired country town, in a sloop, loaded With wood for New-York, was driven on shore at a high 72 LONG ISLAND SOUND. springtide in the night, and remained ignorant of his situa- tion till morning broiie, and showed them they were safe. The waves which had brolien over them had thrown the vessel up to the verge of a cuUivated field, so that with little difficulty they leaped upon the stone wall which surrounded it; and afier recovering from almost freezing by sheltering themselves awhile behind it, they found comfortable refresh- ments in a neighbouring farm-house. Willi scarcely less suffering, though with better fortune, anotiier friend of mine, of three times his age, and ten times his skill, had conducted his little vessel through these waters in a December night, when a heavy fall of rain and snow, accompanied with freezing weather, had rendered it impos- sible to loosen a rope or lower a sail, and a tremendous gale hoarsely commanded the furling of the canvass on penalty of vengeance. Every brace and halliard had be- come a spar of ice, and the sails could not be cut out of the yards and buntlines, because the crew had refused to do duty, and gone b-low. The old commander, undaunted by all these difficulties, might have been seen (had there been anybody to observe him), firmly holding the helm, some- times looking in vain through the darkness for any sign of the coast, at other times straining his eyes to distinguish what light-house it might be he saw or thought he saw over the icy taffVail. The terrors of that night, — though the tale I had listened to in the Mediterranean, — were strongly impressed upon my mind. «D. NEW-HAVEN. 73 i ignorant of his situa- 1 them they were safe. them had thrown the field, 80 that with little wall which surrounded I freezing by sheltering nd comfortable refresh- igh with better fortune, ; his age, and ten timed el through these waters full of rain and snow, had rendered it impos- sail, and a tremendous ng of the canvass on ; and halliard had be* Id not be cut out of the rew had refused to do nmandcr, undaunted by II seen (had there been tiding the helm, some- arkness for any sign of his eyes to distinguish or thought he saw over lat night, — though the ranean, — were strongly CHAPTER X. New-Hayen— Literary aspect— Refined Society— Taste in Arcliitec ture-Bury.ng Groun.i-Franklin Institute-PaintiLs of T S bull— American Taste— Learning. New- Haven, so celebrated for the attractive beauty of its streets, the variety and romantic nature of the neighbouring scenery, and still more the literary and refined character of Its society— New-Haven it was my lot to visit at a most mterestmg period, namely, during the ceremonies of Com- mencement Week. The annual celebration of Yale College had been changed this year, but did not fail to collect a large concourse of persons from different parts of the coun- try, with, as frequently happens, some foreigners of literary taste and intelligence. ' There is scarcely any thing better calculated to give pleasure to a friend of learning than to visit this delightful city on such an occasion. It seems as if New-Haven had been originally planned for the site of a university; and almost as if every public as well as every private house had been erected, every garden laid out, every court-yard and public square beautified, and every tree planted and trained, with direct reference to its appearance and convenience as a seat of learning. The central squure, which is a noble quadrangle of eight or nine hundred feet, surrounded by double rows of large elms, and divided by a street that is completely arched over with thick foliage, although it is the site of four of the finest public buildings, and shows the fronts of handsome mansions on three of its sides, affords the university its place of honour, for the six college build- ings are ranged in a long line on the western side, where the ground is highest, and the elevation superior to the chiel part of the city. JNew-Haven is a place of consider- able business, with the inhabitants of surrounding towns j but the stores are so remote from this delightful centre, or 7* 74 NEW-HAVEN. at least so eflectually concealed from view, where this fine display of buildings is visible, that the idea ;is well as the interruption of business is entirely excluded. It is impos- sible for a stranger to catch a glimpse of the Green, as it is familiarly called, especially from some of the most favour- able points of view (as, for example, the public or the pri- vate doors of the Tontine Coffee House), without experi- encing sensations of a peculiar and most agreeable nature. He looks from under the shade of a venerable elm grove upon a smooth level of green grass, about four hundred feet wide, and eight hundred in length, from right to left. The eye then first meets an obstacle, and falls upon a long line of drooping trees of the same description, standing like a wall of verdure before him, diseloiiing only the general pro- portions of three line churches, in different tastes, but at uniform distances, with towers rising to a great height into the air, and giving an interrupted view of the university. As for tranquillity, it is uubroken, unless, perhaps, by the traffickers in water-melons offering their cooling wares to abate the thirst of a literary race ; or by the voices of the young treading the paths of science, which stretch across the smooth turf up the hill to the colleges, " as plain as road to parish church," and far more easy than the steep of science, as it was represented to them at first starting, ill the frontispiece of Dr. Webster's Spelling Book. The periodical ringing of the bells, with the signs of gathering and dispersing classes, the stillness which reigns through this part of the city during the college exercises, and the student-like aspects of those who, at other hours, traverse the Green, have a tendency to direct the thoughts of the spectator to subjects above the common affairs of life, and by elevating the mind and tranquillizing the feel- ings, win from the stranger who visits the place a tribute of praise, the source of which mp.y perhaps be more creditable to himstlf than he imagines. Many trav- ellers have loved to recur to the beauties of New-Haven, and to praise its neat mansions, extensive and blooming gardens, level lawns and luxuriant foliage, who knew not that the chief source of tl^eir enjoyment, during their stay, REFINEMENT. 75 m view, where this fine the idea us well as the excluded. It is impos- ipse of the Green, as it lome of the most favour- le, the public or the pri- House), withont experi- I most agreeable nature, a venerable elm grove about four hundred feet from right to left. The id falls upon a long line sription, standing like a ig only the general pro- different tastes, but at g to a great height into view of the university, unless, perhaps, by the r their cooling wares to or by the voices of the :e, which stretch across lieges, " as plain as road easy than the steep of m at first starting, in the ng Book. bells, with the signs of le stillness which reigns ig the college exercises, use who, at other hours, f to direct the thoughts ! the common affairs of i tranquillizing the feel- 10 visits the place a which mp.y perhaps be i imagines. Many trav- )eauties of New-Haven, extensive and blooming t foliage, who knew not foment, during their stay, had been derived from another and a higher cause J I.5.V- often hstened with pleasure to the encomiums Z' an al^ poured, like a spontaneous song, from the hearts of many refined strangers on the spot, because, while it recall to mv own mmd agreeable impressions, it infi.rms me that my compamons hold learning in becoming regard, and re ofce to see It duly honoured. ^ rejoice But in praising the fine part of New-Haven I wo.i1,J „«. s .ght the remainder of the'city. Many Tea "and no a few eegam houses are seen in other streets, esneciwllv in S vtcnnty shaded by the rows of elms wh.c7e3 L'n every direction along those which here cros at rU" ang es Wuhdrawing northwardly along two of tl S to the distance of about a quarter of a mL, you ente the several of the oldest and most eminent of the professors of trees of a self.plan.ed 2^Z a^St h relV TofhlJ: could be more pleasing or appropriate than Ue asp" t of one ^f I 7' "'''" ' r'-'''"^ '" '»>« twilight'^: isu one of the professors ; and nothing more accordant with Se scene and the vicinity than the intelligent conveTsalior! jntngled with the refined hospitality and^riendshphlwn by such of the neighbours as had assembled, to several ^6 rary strangers who presented themselves during the even ig" One cannot but regret, after seeing such a society 5 us influence should not be more extenfively exerted^'rlt ^e standard of conversation and manners in other placT No one can doubt that there is a large depository of powe; here which mtght, by some means, be made to op^erateCon our country extensively. Much might be done by a peS cal pub .cation, devoted not so much to the cuUiva'^^LT of the higher branches of science and literature, wilh which so few have any concern, but to the refinemenr of TocS intercourse, the mcitement of parents to give a prooer do vate and public prosperity and happiness. The cause of 7t NBW-HAVEN. its want is probably to be attributed to the fact, that the members of this society underrate their ow.: powers and opportunities for doing good in such a manner. Those con- nected wiih the university are generally much occupied with business ; and there is so much refinement around them that they do not, perhaps, feel how much it is needed else- where. Besides, ihey would be ready to say that Yale College, with the ten large and respectable boarding-school* in the city, are constantly labouring to produce such an effect. But how slight yet how effectual a labour it would be to publish a monthly magazine here, whose influence should be beneficially felt throughout the Union, and which, while it might chastise the follies and frailties of certain in- fluential periodicals now existing, might condescend to in- struct a million of our countrymen in the way to social refinement, the bosom friend of moral and religious improve- ment. ., „ ... r A society has been formed in New-Haven within a lew months, for the promotion of taste in civic architecture, the laying out of grounds, &c. A stranger would at fiist be disposed to wonder less that such a subject should have at- tracted attention here, than that there should have been sup- posed to be room for improvement. And yet it was, in fact, perfectly natural that such a plan should have been devised in New-Haven; because improvements are much more likely to progress than to begin. And how important are the objects embraced by this society ! Our best plans of architecture in the United States are notoriously defective. We have lived till this time without ascertaining any prin- ciples to be observed in building onr houses, so as to consult the great points that ought to be regarded. How often do we begin to build without a thought even of old Fuller's quaint remark, that light and water, creation's eldest daughters, should first be sought in choosing a position ; and after this, how innumerable are the violations of common sense, taste, and experience committed by every person who con- structs a residence for his family! In fantastical ornaments and preposterous novelties, as well as in fashions condemned by every thing but habit, we often see that obedience to ex- am pi soimi blef. he cl parrii genei tion I vate ( is no paint (half more movin guest! Ha] teach of our some scenes but ch its gre be no ficed, i ceremc portam only fc occupy were p it is to family wise it ceilings the fun the sill ideas c back ev on whii What a the care DOMKSTIC AHRANOEMENTS. 77 id to the Tact, thnt th« their owi; powers and a manner. Those con- iierally much occupied refmement around them much it is needed clse- eady to say that Yale jctablc boarding-schooU ig to produce such an ,'clual a hibour it would here, whose influence It the Union, and which, id fraihies of certain in- [)ight condescend to in- n in the way to social *1 and religious improve- few-Haven within a few in civic architecture, the anger would at fiist be I subject should have ai- re should have been sup- And yet it was, in fact^ hould have been devised ments are much more And liow important are ty! Our best plans of ire notoriously defective, ut ascertaining any prin- r houses, so as to consult egarded. How often do 3[ht even of old Fuller's water, creation's eldest choosing a position ; and nlations of common sense, y every person who con- In fantastical ornaments as in fashions condemned see that obedience to ex- ample wh.ch ought to \ye yiehled only to pure taste and sound judgment The purse-proud descendant of a venera- ble family, to obliterate every trace of an education which he chooses to despise, and with the feelings almost of a parrifide, levels the noble elms that defended worthier generations from the storms; before he lays the founda- tion of some glaring structu.e, which he thinks will capti- vate every eye. Sc.me of our countrymen believe that there 18 no architectural taste independent of red. green, or blue p..ml; whi e others, especially in the capitals, sleep eontent (half a day s journey in the air.) if they succeed in Iniildine more spacious parlours than their neighbours, and in re- moving one more convenience to make room for a few more guests at an occasional winter's jam. Happy would it be, if the society above referred to could teach us how to consult our own comfort, and .he benefit of our children, m the plan of a house ; if it could convince some parents that our dwellings sl,„„ld sometimes be the scenes of unostentatious, sin.-ere, and Chiis.ian hospiiality; but chiefly planned and furnished with a serious regard to us great object,-the training of their children. There can be no fireside in a house where every thing has been sacrl- ficed, in the plan and the furniture, to the hollow and ruinous ceremonies of fashionable life. The fireside is of but little im- portance, I know, in the view of persons who profess to live only for the present time ; but this is a subject which miifht occupy the attention at least of some reflecting persons, if it were properly brought up to their notice. How impossible It IS to reconcile the demands of fashion and of dutj- on the family of one of our wealthy citizens ! How much more wise It would be to contract the walls and depress the ceilings of our houses to a reasonable size, and tear off" from the furniture of our children's apartments some portion of he silks and gildings with which we early implant false Ideas of the world and their own importance, and brinir back every thing at once to the intellectual anc moral scall on which some of our ancestors ordered their household ' What ages, what centuries of time would be rescued from the cares of spacious and gaudy apartments, the conversa- NEW-HAVEN. tions of heartless and formal visiters ; what a round of new and nobler topics and daily pleasures might he substituted ; what a revolution might be effected in the occupations and feelings of families ; how many a child might be saved a banishment, who is now annually expelled from the parental roof, to seek afar a guardian and instructer, denied by fashion at home ; how many a fireside might be daily and nightly gladdened with circles of well-taught and affectionate brothers and sisters, instead of being devoted to frivolous morning calls, and trampled by nightly dancers ! Incontestibly many comforts and advantages of different kinds might accrue from the improvement of architectural taste and science, in our country at large. A sightly man- sion may be erected at less expense than is often bestowed on a pile of deformity; and not only convenience but health may be secured by a judicious plan in building. The plant- ing of trees on private grounds often contributes to the grati- fication of neighbours and the beauty of a town ; and the laying out and decorating of public squares, although so generally neglected among us, might easily be rendered subservient to the improvement of public taste, intelligence, tad morality. Whoever has been in Switzerland or other foreign countries, where rural seats are provided at the way- side, near fountains, on hill tops, or under the most venera- ble shades, for the convenience of foot-travellers, must recall with pleasure the agreeable impressions they give of the re- finement of the inhabitants. What a total absence of all such feelings, on the contrary, is caused, as we pass along our own roads, to sec no trace of any tiling done for the benefit of a stranger ! The road side is often studiously deprived of foliage; and it is rare that so much as a rock can be found proper to afford a convenient seat. On enter- ing our villages also, is there any little grove, or even a single tree provided with benches, from which one may survey the objects around him ? A trough may have been placed for tlie benefit of the cattle, to receive the water of a rill ; but why is man considered as so far beneath all no- tice ? The inn and the drinking shop indeed are open ; but would not their evil influence be diminished, if every village we wil the lilt pro tre< aff( >"'« ab pro 1 ten( sho war my roue mer oft! com grea plaii min^ allel then ing . sum •ng I aroui view pellii of de ing a with This is far it ; HI scene here 1 ofNe BVRYINO-OROVND. n ; what a round of new I might he substituted ; in the occupations and hild might be saved a elled Trom the parental jcter, denied by fashion It be daily anil nightly Light and affectionate ig devoted to frivolous lly dancers ! advantages of different vement uf architectural large. A sightly man- than is often bestowed convenience but health n building. The plant- contributes to the grati- fy of a town ; and the c squares, although so [ht easily be rendered iiblic taste, intelligence, in Switzerland or other ire provided at the way- under the most venera- n-travellers, must recall ons they give of the re- a total absence of all i caused, as we pass ! of any thing done for side is often studiously that so much as a rock enicnt seat. On enter- little grove, or even a from which one may . trough may have been to receive the water of s so far beneath all no- >p indeed are open ; but finished, if every village were provided with a little shady »reen, furnished at least with a few seats in the shade, where the youth and age of the place might meet at sunset in the summer ? With how Iiltle expense might the spi.tbe beautified, and, if necessary, protected by a keeper! Winding paths are easily made trees are easily planted, and will grow if let alone; flowers afford a cheap and delightful ornament; and how easily might tasteful arbours or rotundas be supplied with a vase, a buHt, or even a statue, such as native artists can easily produce ! ' But this fertile subject has led me far beyond my in- tended limits. Let us turn to the decorated ground which shows, alas ! a profusion of marble monuments, a little west- ward of the beautiliil Avenue of which I have spoken. lo my view, the burying-ground of New-Haven has been too much praised, as it can lay no claims to an equality, as a mere object of taste, with that great and beautiful depository of the dead of Pans with whi.^h it has most frequently beeti compared. The cemetery of Pcire la Chaise occupies a great extent of^ irregular ground, instead of being a mere plain of limited size; and in place of small monument., mingled with many upright slabs, planted in lines par- allel with the straight poplars, which imperfectly shade tfiem, presents a long succession of more cosily and tower- mg obelisks, pyramids, and fabrics of different styles, half surrounded by clusters of various trees and shrubs, occupy- ing points favourable to eflect. The paths wind over and around many a little eminence, sometimes confining the view of the solitary visiter to objects close beside him, com- pel ing him to think of some individual among the multitudes of dead, and perhaps to read his epitaph ; sometimes afford- mg a distant view of the metropolis, and filling the mind with a solemn and instructive lesson concerning the livinjr. This .8 a brief picture of Pere la Chaise, as the cemeteAr IS familiarly denomiriHted : ilu,t is, of the better portion of It ; and how can a comparison be instituted between its rural scenery and luxurious monuments and anything we find fiere? Perhaps all iho marble in the whole burying-ground of New-Haven would hardly be sufficient to construct some I r~ 10 NKW-IIAVCN. single momiments crc.-tecl to l'iiriHi;ins. Hut, for all iho nurposrs lor whirl, ii plitcc of iiiU'rinent hIiouUI bo planiicil and visiie.l, that of iNcw-liavci ap|.cari-a to me as lar mipc- rior tt» ll.al of I'arw an I .an po.s.l.ly iU'^-nhv. Oiu- ol the most «pU-mlKl H11UCIUI..S in ilw laiicr is that ol Al..^lar.l ami H.Moisc ! What man of intflUict, not to say ol rdiKion, or even of nioralilv, . bove one liundred thou- i alumni and friends in gh about an equal sum ic for several other insti- Dse instances of enlight- Ige hopes that learning y the public; the past incurs among a people laims the immediate im- n those of Connecticut, jf Connecticut River, at pied by the English in coast of Massachusetts from the Indians, who lis delightful stream, and shore by the Mohawks, sent Lieutenant Gardner s post, for fear lest the arrived only a few hours from New-York, which It at Hartford, under the ok Point, which is about a few houses, several of summer season. I may servations, during a walk St time. Saybrook Point being a peninsula, con- very narrow neck, over and having a broad and n each side. The soil is of the highest part, which 'enty feet. The remains [round at the extremity of ; first fort is believed to oachments of the waves. AN OLD matron's OPINIONS. 77 have loc„ ,„e r,;, ,p. Z :>£r„, 'Ktrrt «„„ l,r,.c,„ „;„ now Xi„:' StTo'L""; T"" Mounta ns, it gave me i strilln„ ; rT "^ ^^^''^V country in two hurJred yet"' On\f 'f ^'"''T '"'^'^ bank stands an anciem mo Lorn '' co"! /'"^ ''^^' erected to Lady Arabella Fe wi k wh ch T, """'' inscription, ^and is entirely n gTecte'd S 'h T', "'^ standing to comply with L r^^ns of th.'^ ^T ing to thJ feeLgs, ^1!^;^:^^^::^ '"^'-r the deceased is called to mind character of The land on the Point is laid out in Urrr. r . i squares,asitwasoriginallyintendedforL ^ '-'t '"^ and Oliver Cromwellfwith other ^ttnj^^ .^''^ ? than himself, was once, it is sair^clX e^baS^^^^^^^ Thames to occupy the ground Th» r "^^^^"^ '" the building which Z once'7ae cXt r etn: "r t^ Court House, and the ancient gravZjoLT. th i '''" .n tta .,a.e, Captai,, Docy's hous. a„J X tor -i, I had some conversation with nn nM ™„. a*e.ed „ig„,,, „,„,,„, ...Zlri^dlS™;:';;: Z .he character of our ancestor, anj fl L dS" ' T'? were formerly experienced here." StdleTa'^S r 88 A CONNECTICUT VILLAOK. room race, which had risen after the Revolutionary War, very unlike their fathers, caring nothing for them, and want- ing only to amass money; but she believea times were better now, and it had become quite the fashion to search for antiquities. It seemed to her like the Book of the Law, which was lost a long time, but was found in the temple in the time of Josiah. CHAPTER XI. A Connecticut Clergyman's Family— Wood-hauling— Middletown. In my journey up the river I deviated from my course to visit one of the favourite scenes of my childhood. It was one of the river towns, so like the others in its general traits, that to describe it is in some sense to describe all which retain their ancient agricultural character. I spent parts of two years there while a boy, in the family of the old clergy- man of the place ; and thus became instructed in the state of society, as an apprfjitice learns his master's trade, viz. by assisting to carry it on. The good old man, who had lived many years on a glebe of four acres and four hundred dollars a year, was considered by his neighbours entitled by his character to the liberal pay of one dollar a week for boarding, lodging, and instructing a boy like me ; and in the plain hospitality which I received at their firesides, I read at once their love for him, and their respect for the learning which I was supposed to be seeking. Some of these men, while they worked the farms of their ancestors, occupied dwellings which had sheUered several generations ; or at least reposed under aged elms where their grandfathers had pursued their boyish sports. I soon began to share the feelings of the family, where every wandering stranger was sure of finding friends ; and through the frequent calls of connexions and brother-clergymen, as well as by visits in r the mer Ii an i pro\ cam ledg oft! exal exhi on n gentl tool gene wane comp of th winte opini( since footec wayw thelo little ( duties fused me at noim{ useful] spent i my gr< tell tal Indian! The days w structic yet an church, clergyn JiOt. B Revolutionary War, ig for them, and want- believea limes were the fashion to search the Book of the Law, found in the temple in >d-hauling — Middletown. ted from my course to ny childhood. It was era in its general traits, 5 to describe all which icter. I spent parts of mily of the old clergy- mstructed in the state lis master's trade, viz. ood old man, who had acres and four hundred neighbours entitled by me dollar a week for >oy like me ; and in the their firesides, I read at espect for the learning Some of these men, eir ancestors, occupied ral generations ; or at I their grandfathers had »n began to share the wandering stranger was I the frequent calls of 18 well as by visits in AN OLD clergyman's FAMILY. gp the neighbourhood and tho parish, I became acquainted with men, congregations, an.l things fnr and near. U n be useful to a minti to rontemplate the operations of an important and vah.ablo machine, must it no7be n m cannot tell exactly how much I was the better for the know if the h 'T'"^ '!"" "' ''"^ P'^^'y «'■ ^^'--. the pS of the heathen gods; hut I am sure that the excellent "nd on my lite, and ought to liave had much more The ol.l gent man, besides his pastoral ,l„,ies, was chiT eou clbr tenlTofJr' "' ""T '' ''"'' '^"'^ cliflieulty. ;"on- general of learnmg, and one with whom those minds wiiieh wandered farthest beyond the village sphere were fond of on^7JrfT ^y ""''' ^'^'h^" «-' -he's °:l;' Of the famUies of New-England draw their circles in ih« wmter evenings, I have heard prine pies avowed .n,l opmtons familiarly expressed, con?r„rg"whrf have ZTJr '•!! "'"""' "*■ f^"^"P« ^' -^'•- The venr bare- footed boy who spent a week in the house, while hU poor wayworn mother was accommodated in the .linte room'fo he love of h.m whose heart-broken disciple she warpoor httle George went off engrafted with views of the rights ami duties of man. whieh certain European sovereign sfa^ r" me 1 "„,!'''" '^'"'"i '-'"' "^ '^' «^«^^- He^encourage^ me at my evenmg lesson by reminding me that there was no .mpechment between any boy and the highe station of sp nt ?nlell''' ''""'7' '"' ^^^" ''' '^'^'^^ ^-th an hour spent m shelhng corn, he would sometimes talk af one of my grandfathers who had loved his books in his youth' or Indians.' ™««'«"«>-y adventures among the Delaware dav?vve';?r"' f ""^'"'"^ '" f'^"'^''"'"" '■°' '^'^ ^'''^ i" P=^s« struct 0^0?, '"'• '' '' r^^ ^"°^^"' *« '^' Fi--"^ i"- vet u eli f ^ ^'■^^l!-'?' r'' """' •''■ "'°«^ seminaries J,ad church an '"'' '', ' ^""\ ''"'' '^'''' '' '^^h for the cnurcli, and are domg much more. Our New-Eneland clergymen carefully transmitted their learning from geS 00 A CONNECTICUT VILLAGE. tion to generation, under the disadvantages to which they were subjected, by their private instructions to young men preparing for their profession ; and although their time was much engrossed with parochial labours, the students were not as much as now withdrawn from the world, but more trained to the practice of a science in which theoretical learning alone is of little direct avail in society. For my own part, I felt that the Christian religion was of real value, when I, though a child, accompanied the venerable pastor in some of his visits to the people of his charge. Two of these occasions have often since presented them- selves to my memory in a powerful contrast. One of these was the funeral of a young man, who had suddenly died on the eve of marriage. The mother stood among the mourn- ful throng, with a heavenly calmness upon her face, and seemed to drink in the consolations of the Scriptures offered by my aged companion, like one thirsty for the water of life. In the other case, I found a half-heathen family at their miserable meal, on the outskirts of the parish, with poverty and ignorance written on every countenance, no Bible in the house, and apparently unacquainted with the bearing of its doctrines on that spirit which had recently in- habited the lifeless body now ready for the grave in one comer of the room. Never before nor smce have I witnessed equal degradation in a family in that part of our country; and the old pastor seemed as much astonished as myself, for they had kept aloof from all the blessings of civilization around them, and been as much unknown as unknowing. From what I heard of the conversation which took place, I received the impression that they had come some months before from another state, where few then enjoyed the bene- fits of intellectual or religious instruction ; and although I spoke not a word on the subject, and probably my reflec- tions were not conjectured even by my companion, with all his fondness for youth, and his penetration, I believe I left the house a decided, though a young champion for knowledge and refinement. Wood-hauling is a word which requires explanation to such as have not been intimately acquainted with the country pco] over they saw movi thus patte The apph warn warn were as 1 1 and t: naan. talk i made their pover withoi manm invital haulin word. Thi tow si tables appeal XAOE. antages to which they (ructions to young men ilthough their time was urs, the students were jm the world, but more e in which theoretical ail in society. For my 1 religion was of real )mpanied the venerable people of !iis charge. I since presented them* contrast. One of these 10 had suddenly died on stood among the mourn- 3SS upon her face, and of the Scriptures offered hirsty for the water of I half-heathen family at irts of the parish, with every countenance, no unacquainted with the t which had recently in- y for the grave in one )r since have I witnessed [lat part of our country; ch astonished as myself, blessings of civilization mknown as unknowing, tion which took place, I had come some months V then enjoyed the bene- ruction ; and although I and probably my reflec- my companion, with all netration, I believe I left champion for knowledge requires explanation to [uainted with the coimtry r A WOOD-HAIJLINO. 91 Villages in New-Engiand. It is the name of an annual wood to^'tht^n 'r P"'1'"""^ ™"'^ ^^^'^ contributions irdirrhL^h:;;:"'^ '''"''' ^''^^'^'^'"^"^ - ^ -«- a h^hllir'' r' * ^';^ '"'"* '"y ^^"'''»"« •""^"'•t*'r to many a hHbuat.on far and near, to give invitations for this muster even tllTT ' ' '""' ^^r" "^"'"'' '""""^ '»>« farme™ and even the awyers' and physicians' households, and thought I grew rich ,n fnends faster than ever before M. LevS «eur, w Inle .a General Lafayette's train, had no mo^; reason to be pleased with the Americans, than I hadToTo e Z peop e of the parish during this tour of visitation. All the overi ow,ngs of their aflection towards the good old man they bestowed upon me; an.l many a respecTful courteTv? saw made by dignified frames which I had^seen before ol movmg to the house of God. and which I had supposed tot thus perpendicular the year round. The farmers' w^veS Kir.'''''';: ""'^ '"'"^'"^ ''°^' «'"»ed i« mylce app ef whirt' """^ ,"r '^''"' '^"'^ ''•^ ''^y^ chestnuts and apples, while the old dog or cat was driven out of the warm chimney-corner, and I was placed on a block to warm my little toes and fingers. I had not supposed there were as many dried pumpkins and sausages iSthewo'S as I saw hanging from the kitchen-walls; and asforTow- and beehives, milk and honey, I thought ;f the Lnd of c" naan. To hear such cheerful, laborious, intelligent neoDle talk about the joys of religion and the p;ospectf of heajS made me love to sit on their settle-benches and walkon theu- sanded floors. Families in affliction, and Those t poverty were visited, encouraged, or prayed with, and left without a hint at any inappropriate sublet ; but where good manners and good memory were not found together^ Jn mvitation was e sewhere given by the pastor to fhe w;od" hauling next Thursday, and every fac'e brightened aTthe Thursday came at the parsonage, and I helped to twist ow strings to roast the beef and spareribs, whUe al Z tables were set m rows ; loaves of bread were cut so as to appear yet whole, the great gate, like those fiUe pel- * i> r 99 A CONNECTICUT VILLAGE. pie wlioso similitude it is, iifier h:iviiic[ been for a time close ttlnit, Wiis w\viiii|lj widi; open ; luid tl.f fiirincis and I'liiiucrs' l)()ys hiiriied oil" to the woods with their horac sleds. IJy-and-hy they [ie>;iiii to come in, rivulliii^r each othtr ill the size of their loiids, the striii<;htiieMS and (luality of tlifir wood, their expedition in ciiliinf; it, their dexterity in driving up and imloading it. SSleiirlis eame in with bags of wheal iiiul rye or Indian meal, wliich the miller had to grind and toll for lis throiiffh the winter; and butler, eggs, cheese, bacon, heads of fine llax and hanks of yarn were handed in and dcp(»sited in ecUiirs and cupboards, with ad- miration at the generosity of friends far and near. Twenty men, old and respectable enough for deacons, were soon assembled ; while there were others in the prime of life, enough to have made one of Colonel Warner's companies at the battle of Bennington. Ah ! how many of those iron- bound frames have ere this been shattered by death, as the linesl trecti of the forest were thai day levelled and riven by their hands ! Long Tom Hewitt came headlong down Hewitt's Hill, with his horsea' tails swe('j)ing the snow, and pulling the handsomest load of white ash that was hauled that winter. There he had lived, driving such horses, iind burning such wood, like his fathers before him, with little notice from the world : one of the shoots from a stump of an old family which dated far back towards the iirsl settlement of the township. He looked as wild as any of the Indians his ancestors were reported to have out-ambushed and outrun ; but there was nothing else savage or iujtive about him. The uplands pro- duced more grass than the cattle or sheep could eat, and they multiplied and fattened even faster than the Hewitts who fed and slaughtered them ; and this was the simple secret of their being all men " to do in the world." He had more respectability than his apatliy deserved, and more in- fluence than he ever exercised. His children were born to ignorance and plenty of bread and milk. They went to pasture in the summer, and ate hasty-pudding and great sweet apples all winter. They never ran away and never died. Their feet were too heavy for the former, and the the wa the bee blo( thcr I ail reat tion. and theii that so ol map boasi datio next time. Cli the pi fill In paintc week ward was a! his no ride, \ broker soon ri was sli tire at came i whip n which ' of the 1 The two lim dextero LLAOr. liiviiic; been for a time ; ;u)(l tl.f funnels anil iVDods witii tlieir liorac roiiie ill, riviilliii^r each straiffhtiiess ami (juality liiiiff it, tlieir dexterity in lis eaiiie in with bags of /liieh the miller hud to inter ; and butter, eggs, [\nd iianks of yarn were ami cupboards, with ad- far and near. Twenty for deacons, wore soon rs in the prime of life, nel Warner's companies how many of those iron- attered by death, as the ay levelled and riven by ing down Hewitt's Hill, le snow, and pulling the was hauled that winter. lorses, find burning such fith little notice from the lip of an old family which tlemcnt of the township, dians his ancestors were outrun ; but there was , him. The uplands pro- or sheep could eat, and faster than the Hewitts ind this was the simple D in the world." He had ^ deserved, and more in- [is children were born to id milk. They went to hasty-pudding and great ;ver ran away and never for the former, and the A WESIERN 8BTT1,ER. 03 •Jir Was too pure for the l-iMnr ii„ wr the ii.gi.es, ^ound in ilr;:;,." j'::^^:;^':,;;^ ^^ was nothiu. above M,c,„ wo.tl. ^ras.L.^ t "'' 'Y''' the reproach of ignorance fton? Xnt) ' 'i^ "'"y ''"^'' because, as the expression w,! w 1 generation, I'lood e.iougli: wa „ ^ uc . i^V ,\';'w"r '^ T °' P"°' •hem, which is next t( wSvi I n'hr'"'""^ '""^''^ 1 -n not using language h^ ^ll' ^^•^^.^^ ^^l;-;'-- rea^img .vr.t.ng, and ciphering are not lie cal Lj edue^: S;he^;:rt;rCd^;t:;r^^^^^ «o often' enlivened ^^^^rt^^ dation. When theiefore Tom h . d n . . u '*""■ ^^^'""^ f.i long under-jaw; but they in fact distiniruishPrnhl panned dash-board of his pung, which S b'eentokt tlie" week before by h.s wild son Josh in a high gale, Tnd after ward me.uled by him in a low one. The^^ld horse wW^^^ was as calm as a wooden clock, with the old man o baTa„e« his notions, had been a wild fury on the nighHJthe sleTr ride when she set off in the moonlight hke a w^h whf « broken hair-spnng, at a rate never designed for him a„d soon ..an out his career. AVhat Charley had in his pung Je was s ow m exhibiting, so that the spectators had C to tire at the.r posts, when old Captain John, a retired saUor came up, heralded by his own stentorian voice. hTs kiotty whip made many short fashionable calls on his blind hor / n^H.h was proof against such attacks, as much as he seSS of the Hewitts against the wit of the master. I he out-door ceremonies were almost completed, when dexterously oft the sleds to the right and left, almost tho Q 04 MIDDLKTOWN. whole len .0^ ^^t:^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 4>

^^v. 4i^ Ix CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical IVIicroreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques ha hi mi be qu be oil Le th( in pn blc pn cal no a I fro w:i aft the me wh ^vh SOI am SOI am in tio SC( ye toe mi on GERMAN SETTLERS. 8a have felt tlie impulse which drove tiiem to a new country far awiiy, some liave been attracted by the facilities for manufacturinir allbrdcd by the streams, and others have been persevcrnijr in digginnpressive ; but a journey of seventy or riolHy miles tbroush such a grovo fosters feelii-gs of a. delightful and exalting nature. ELMS. genprally border this kinpr IP villages are all situated of Sulllokl and Enfield. I hill or two, and tlic cross- an agreeable variety to the good habits of the people, 10 arts, the abundance of homogeneous soeicty, still resent at every step olijects vellcr. Hfrc also are seen ise who have emigrated to id in clearing the Western ization far towards the inte- I'e see schools where men s of the learning they have iches and in the legislatures re building, were without a ntioned include the sites of r, excepting only the military lience of travelling is greatly •ees, which, with some inter- the whole distance. I have ice arose the ancient practice nd high-roads ; but from my elms, spreading their noble id my admiration. Many of id, trunks are standing, and oved, which seem to claim a o, the clearing of the forests. n some of the villages, the growth, form two, tlireo, or broad path, while their trunks as not to shut out the view e tree is impressive ; but a uiilcs thnmah such a grovo and exalting nature. I Hartford. 97 CHAPTER XII. HartforJ-CIijrtpr Hill, the Seat of tl.c Willis Family-Public Institutions-Society— Antiquities. Hartford may be taken as a specimen of the whole country: on every side arc seen marks of a former more quiescent state of things, while a hurrying, populous, and Cr™"! 7""f r'"u'^ ^'' '"''' ''' in. is rapidly flow, ing on. A lew of the habitations of old times remain, with many of the sound sentiments and excellent habits of former (Jays; but as the former have been generally improved by modern hands, o. at least furnished with comforts formerly unknown, without losing their pristine character or their venerable aspect, so M-here the good sense, intelligence, and religion of former days are fo.m.i, they appear to have been rendered at once more valuable among their contrasts, and more extensively useful through the new channels now opened for then exercise. Every thing indicates the great revo ut.on which has taken place within a few years in the employments of the active people of New-England, where so many hands are now engaged in manufactures, and the agency which has converted the nation into a race of nomades during a large part of the year. The strokes of hammers and the rolling of wheels are frequemly heard, and many steamboats and stage-coaches are daily arriving and departing. ° After visiting the public institutions, in which Hartford has become very rich, and enjoying more of the society than 1 have leisure to weigh or estimate, I paid a visit to Charter Hill untu lately the seat of the Willises. It has passed out 01 tno tamily, after having been occupied by them for a century and a half or more ; and I am the more anxious to uescribe it because it may soon lose such of its ancient characteristics as it yet retains. The estate lies upon the Si I 1^ B8 INSTITUTIONS. last prominent angle of an elevated range of beautiful level grouni], whieh rises above the south meai'ows of Hartford, and makes a conspicuous appearance from tiie river, its banks, and several parts of the city, while it overlooks a large part of Hartford, and the fertile course of tiie Con- necticut for some miles. Tlie garden occupies the level to the verge of the descent, having the venerable old mansion on the north, and a renmant of the orchard on the cast, where I suppose stood in former times a block-house, for defence ntrainst the Indians- At the foot of the hill, and shading the street, still stands the ancient oak in full vigour, though tradition says that it was left a full-grown tree when the native forest was levelled around it. A smooth and verdant descent, in some places too steep to be safely passed, leads from the elevation towards the level of the extensive meadows below, on one of the upper levels of which the Indians once annually pitched their wig- wams in the summer-season, and where now are seen count- less fields of grass and grain, often divided by line rows of trees, and occasionally bordered with bowers of native grape-vines. The ancient oak, which has furnished so many generations of sportive children with acorn cups and a really sublime object for their admiration, shows as yet no token of decay, but bids fair to flourish yet for another century. Tlie charter of Connecticut colony, wliich owes its pres- ervation to this faiilil'ul trunk, seems to have imbued it in return with perpetual lile ; and the tree is regarded with peculiar veneration for its connexion with that important event in the history of the country. I did not expect, when I l)egan to speak of Charter Hill, to find leisure to say a word of the people of Hartford or their public institutions, several of which do great honour to their liberality and intelligence. Having a few minutes, however, I will say, in the lirst place, that the American Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb is the first institution of the kind ever founded in America, and has not only encouraged the establishment of all others existing in the Union, but has caused them to be conducted on one plan, and that probably the best in the world. The IJetreat lor the Insane { e tl fc bi hi r< ai to h( Ai dl. m< ill- wl; of of of to] spc wh moi visi the reH( tion pou lay edifi in si M amo amo man obse or vi passi those IS. c(l rangR of licnutiful level until meai'ows of Hartford, larance from the river, its city, wliilo it overlooks a fertile course of the Con- arden occupies the level to the venerable old mansioii the orchard on the east, r times a block-house, for t the foot of the hill, and 16 ancient oak in full vigour, ; left a full-grown tree when )und it. X, in some places too steep the elevation towards the below, on one of the upper annually pitched their wig- 1 where now are seen count- len divided by fine rows of ed with bowers of native vhich has furnished so many with acorn cups and a really lion, shows as yet no token h yet for another century, loiiy, which owes its pres- cems to have imbued it in . the tree is regarded with nexion with that important try. in to speak of Charter Hill, the people of Hartford or of which do great honour to 3. Having a few minutes, St place, that the American is the first institution of the nd has not only encouraged i existing in the Union, but [;ted on one plan, and that The IJetreat lor the Insane Hartford. 90 who come h.ther ,o intrust their a/IIic.ed frien.ls to the k 11 -t delicate ^y^.lyr'i^^z.::^- ^ ::i::; V s.ter o. feeling to look upon the well-pro, or, iJnedc-d,ic7 tTo, ♦ t ^ "^ f ■■'"*'""'' ^"hsorvient to the restora- tion ot the immortal mind to the exercise nf ,/^'' .."^^ powers, aiKl the cure of those clSe^T^^c^ ;. ^'^^J ky waste the nobler part of man: the reeonstructr,, t ," t Marks of unusual refinement and delicaev orn fm,n^ among the society of Hartford, such as " nig t e ct among persons who have in some sense the ove s It o .^ many objects of charitable interest. The Tad ef do „n« observe the pupils of the Deaf and Dumb Asyl m 3r h ar o o visit the tenants of the Ketreat, without fee mg o c^m those mstuutions have opportunities lor studying the nature 1" i) too Mils. SIOOtRNET. T of the mind which few others possess; It is necessary for ai intelligent observer to witness but one lesson in a elass of the deaf and dumb, to si'e that the eourse of instruction must develop the faculties of the pupils, and especially of the teacher, in an extraordinary degree. It was (oretold of the Rev. Mr. Gallaudet some years ago, and very soon after liis return from Kurope, at the eomnicneenient of the American Asylum, that he was in a way to become a dis- tinguished benefactor to his country, by introducing improve- ments into the prineii)les of general education. And how fully has experience proved the foresight of this remark ! With a heart of the warmest philanthropy, and a niind at once judicious, penetrating, inventive, and persevering, he has ])roduced several books for the elementary instruction of children in morals and religion, which have taught many a parent to do what has been for ages considered impossible, and encouraged them to undertake more, while it has pro- cured for many a child advantages often denied to persons of mature age. There is to be found in Hartford a considerable amount of literary and scientilic knowledge and taste. Heside those residents of both sexes who have devoted time to reading, the collection of specimens, the rearing of plants, &c. Washington College, which was established a few years since, in a commanding situation in the immediate environs, has exercised some i'avoural)Ie influence in this respect. Several schools for young ladies, at dillerent periods, have also had their share in raising and supporting the intellectual character of the city. Among them was one taught a few years since by Miss Huntley, now Mrs. l/ydia H. Si- gourney, who has distinguished herself as one of the best female writers of our country, in poetry and prose, and who has done more with her pen than almost any other of her sex in the United States, to elevate public sentiment, and to show the holy union which exists between religion and pure, exalted literary taste. During a few years in which she was devoted to the instruction of young ladies in this city, she employed her leisure in cultivating her own mind and heart, and in contributing to the enjoyments of a s V ]( si SI it Pi of h tic be int till in to aid mo of Ly yoi esti litei her mei ope: stati aloii kind ten I thrc then for t aniii ccnti mov( and ; whic INET. ssess: It is nccpssnry for s but oiu' Irsson in a class \. the foursc of instruction le pupils, ami esjiccially of licence. It was loretold of irs ago, and very soon after le commencement of the n a way to become a dis- try, by introducing improve- eral education. And how foresight of this remark! ilanthropy, and a mind at entive, and persevering, he le elementary instruction of which have taught many a ages considered impossible, ike more, while it has pro- ;es often denied to persons ford a considerable amount ge and taste. Ueside those e devoted time to reading, le rearing of plants, &c. is established a few years in the immediate environs, influence in this respect. 'S, at diilerent periods, have id supporting the intellectual them was one taught a few ', now Mrs. l/ydia H. Si- l herself as one of the best I poetry and prose, and who m almost any other of her evate public sentiment, and h exists between religion ?. During a few years in istruction of young ladies in iure in cultivating her own ting to the enjoyments of a HARTFORD. 101 social circle of which she was a member. A small litrmrv soc.ety ol which she was the founder, like S i^co L '"''f' various spheres in which its n.cmhen. siu.^ Jiave moved. It was more rare then than now to sZ such exertions n.a.Ie, and crowned with sue , , Z •t .H not easy to describe how unpron.i.smg anpc'.red 2t Fojoct o, lornting such an assocLion ant,nf -^ "yo , of .uch a town, or how gratifying was tl... surprise c.use y us prosporay. Several larger and more pi b , a 2^^ ions now ex.st m Hartford, the nun.berof n.hlbitant h i .J beeo„,e nearly double, and the general interest am'S ntellectual improvement throughout the lar-ror and , nt v of he smaller towns in this part o,' the couii.ry havi g , 1 sed m a, equal ratio ; and to tlicir nicn.bers if will be^M-a i Vnig aid of sticli an individual as Mrs. .Sigouri.ey. Jhe C.oodnd. Association hear literary, sciemific or mora lectures every week through the winter f on ome of their inembers; while the debates of the Ciceonean Lyceum also interest a large iiui.ib.T, priiL-ipaliv "nh" youiig A social library, of eonsiderabi/exten\ ,^, 1, ' established many years ago, has had at, i„(luen,-e on the luerary character of the people, though lately m ,n tlnn heretofore as .t is an i.nportant characteristk- o all t le means of knowledge that they powerfully assist each ; he 's op ration. The Sabbath-schools are iif a ,„ost ilouri hiJ^ s ate ; and wheiever this is the case, t.ot religion and rnorS aloije find benefit in them, but usef.il knovSedge of everv kiiid is powerfully promoted. Tiiere are now iio le L l-J en or twelve ..hurches in the city, all which, ,vit it Vo o^ hree exceptions, have Sabbath-schools coiinected wtS tliem. A society, consistiiig of all the teachers, has existed for ten years. I had the g,-a.irica,ion of seein/t ,^n o^ 1 e central diuuh, after a public service for the occasion and move by schools a,id classes, ,inder their appropiiat" e cbo anne : — . BODY. OF. \E . HAYNES, NOUK. OF NFCTIf'VTT HO. DYKD DOM 165 J ar inscriptions on the same HAflTFORP. 108 -tone: one to the Miev. Mr. Joseph IFayne., minister of Wf ;;.;:'';'' "-•""'';:'"• '1™'<1 on the twenty. oL ^'J. , in the sixly-seventh year of lier a.r,." ii.o middle stone bears the followin.ir h.seriplion :- Jn mf.mouv of the Hev. 'J'homas IFookfr io lAKnoKi, w.ra a...,, r Um i-kksox,, u.ieuk he I I.ANTK.. VK KIRST ( 'HtRC,, ,N CoNNt. Mr, T AN EL0ULi:.Nr A.U.E AND FAITI,, ,1. Mks.stkR OF ChKIST He died lvL\ Till Alt: LXl The following is the inscription on tiie third stone ; — R or southern An EnTAPt, ON M Samiei. Stonk, Deceased ye 61 \EAKE OF HIS AOE lvi,Y 20 Hif)3 AeWENOLAND-S OU.RV & „KR KADIANT CROWNE, Was he who now on softest aed of downe. J IL glorious resurrection MORNE AIM'EARE, Doth safely, sweetly sl,:,:,.,: in Jesus here. In nature S solid art, ^ KFASOMXc; „ kll, J IS KNOWNE, DEVO.N-D COMPARE, HE I.ID EXCELL: tjRRORS CORRUPT, BY SINNEWOIS DISPI TF He did OPl'Mi.NE, ^ CLEARLY TIIE.M CONFUTE- Ahovk all TinN,.s he Christ h.s Lord prkferrd. Hartford, thv richest jewel's here interd? These inscriptions arc copied as closely as the type of ate present day w. il allow. The originals^ are among ,l"e most interesting relics ia our eom.try, and may to^li an pearance. yet be preserved for centuii, even Tn' he ope'i eopte; fr'^'r^'^l/^"'" ^"J"'>-- '^^- liberal minS'd people ol Hartford would honour themselves and the memory of their pious ancestors, by surrounding these invaluabk monuments with some sufficient barrier. IM ^imlT TO THE SPRINUX. CHAPTl'lt XIII. Narrative of a Visit to the Springs in the lait Century— XcwspapoM, A FRiKNP of mine, wlio possosscs a most accuriitc memory, lias fiirnislicd mt' witli the following acrount of a visit siic made to tlie Sprinsis m the ynar 1701, in company witii several of h«r aiiiiuaintaiices, male and ft.'male. Tiiinking it may prove in some respects intcreiliny to my readers, to have an opiioriunily to compare the preicnt with the p.ist, I have t!mui,'lit proper to insert it nearly in the words in which I received it. The party orii^inallv consisted of five, vi/. three gentle- men and two ladies, who travelled with two jrifrs (then called chairs) and a saddle-horse. Their first plan was to pro- ceed only to "labanon I'ool," now known as Lchanon .Springs, and after a short visit there to return : soni" of their friends, who had spent a little time there in preceding years, having made a pleasing report of the place. The grand- mother of one of them, it was recollected, had returned from » the Tool" one pleasant day before the {{evolution, and dis- mounted irom her side-saddle, in a dark-coloured joscy and petticoat, with the dignity proverbial of those old times, yet told of her cooking for dinner the pease picked by the gentle- men at that ancient watering-placie. From Hartford the party proceeded westward ; and some idea may be formed of the fashions from the dress of one of the ladies, who wore a black i)eaver with a sugar-loaf crown, eight or nine inches high, called a steeple crown, wound round with black and red cord and tassels, being loss showy than the gold cord sometimes worn. Habits having gone out of fashion, the dress was of " London smoke" broad- cloth, buttoned down in front and at the side with twenty- four gilt buttons, about the size of a half-dollar. Long t I tl Si ii a I (r to n( ni wi pil ho pa as the son a I: day woi resi cee( join and dan( moti clot! stoci they inhal in re curio son \ but ! Khod In Icrs I SI'RINCiS, irrnsov. 103 I XIII. the lail Century— Ncwspiiiiori. scs u most accuriitc inciiiory, iving aci-ouiit ol ii visit slic lar 1701, ill rompuny vvitli lule and finnale. Tliinking intcreilinii to my loacltTs, to tlic prt'X'iit with the p.ist, I iieiirly in the words in which ^(l of live, vi/. throe genlle- ed with two » "n^rn notbe.ravellcHriu.Li;.^,'^, f • ",'' '" "'""^ P'''''«.^ ''ould "ithalon^^vldte ea^l wl Lr'-Mr''^' "" «''' "'•••" ril«-rim,ge ,o the Ho y lS • t"' ''''%" P^''"«' "" « horse on a saddle 3. 1 ' ' '"' ""''^-who rode a -s,on. of Shaks^trolltl'" *^ '"''^-"■•^' ^ "^'^ U.0 t;LH;:r!':;si;:,: t?:;;r -r'"'''^"^' '^- •"'."0 pleasant spot under the teeTuV". T" '"'' '" a brook, the recollection of wS' .''" ^^^ "'^ *''''' "<" «l«y. After three dT.thL I 'I t''''"''' '^^''^" '» «'"' were intro.lucelto a 'rv.V '■'"^.""^'°"' ""^'^^ »'■«/ r-^sided in the place Vn7.T'";j ''■''^' "^^ ^ '""«'"'' ^vhj t-oeded. Agenfleman whot '"■"' '"'"P"^^ ^''^^ P^O" j"i"e>.v."llers met a party of some of the most respectable citizens of Albany in a common country wagon, without a cover, with straw under feet, and ■with wooden chairs for seats : their family-coach being too heavy for short excursions. Two 'gentlemen on horse- back, in their company, finding thai, our travellers were going to Saratoga, offered to accompany them to the scene IN 1791. landing the uncouth aspert I wch'onii: retreat from the r, and rain soon came on, )ut left a clear sky hi the led, and reached Albany at irty were greatly alarmed I door in one of the streets, red by the small-pox, in a ladies had never had that be exposed to the con- d of her companions, how- iserving the painful object, they felt for her, until the disease had passed. The ed roof and great window time at the foot of State- i took tea, there were only f.c having been settled only illingwortli, Saybrook, and ansingburgh was an older ontaining apparently more habited principally by emi- 'he tavern was a very good hospitable to the party, 1 friends, that the time was 1 houses. After a delay of roceeded on their journey, rford by a ferry, they went see the Cohoes Falls, of 1 the northern bank, riding in going and returning. he tr^.v,"llers met a party of zens of Albany in a common , with straw under feet, and heir family-coach being too Two 'gentlemen on horse- g thai our travellers were company them to the scene A WILDEHXESS. 107 wot^Sd from the Lid '' I' ^?"' ''™"^'" '» "'-'^'"7 we were sealed ^ ■ '''k ^r'^ "P^^" '^' '■"^^^ -' ^^hich t!ie r ier ZllZ, I i""^ '''' °» '^' «PP««"e side of the aus; of thA " '""^ '''' '^' ''«"^^' «» Ji«<^«vering had rZested J .''''"" "^ '^' «'^^1' '""' ^'•''••e Frazef »er, .tLrZ:;:,to bit 7Z7m, '"" "°" '» ""^ invitino- an,i oi . '"^ Hudson, was very un- Tsr^rrwasrue:*; tf w': -?/7.^-^h"a the afternoon before we readS .T ''""''^^'V'^^ ^^'^ ^^ been directed for oi^TodlS' l" m f' '" ^v''^ ^^ ''^'^ in an opening of ,1 e dZkLs!T,u '." " '"'"'^''^ P'""*' i-e-iier, a.zd Mlieu or liow we n,ight hope to reach there. lOS THE SPRINGS IN 1791. we couM not tell. We were for a time extremely dis- pirited, until the gentleman who had joined us at Hudson came forward (still in his ball-djress), and endeavoured to encourage us, saying, that if we would but trust to his guid- ance, he doubted not tiiat he should be able to conduct us Bafely and speedily to a more comfortable habitation. " This raised our hopes ; and we followed him cheerfully, though the day was now at its close, and the forest seemed tliicker and darker than before. When the last light at length had disappeared, and we found ourselves in the deepest gloom, our guide confessed that he had encouraged us to keep us from despair ; qnd that as to any knowledge of the road, he had never been there before in his life. He however dismounted, tied his horse behind our chair, and taking the bridle of our own, began to lead him on, groping his way as well as he was able, stepping into one mud-hole after another without regard to his silk stockings, sometimes up to his beauish knee-buckles. It seemed as if we were going for a long time down a steep hill into some bottom- less pit ; and every few minutes one wheel would pass over a log or a stump so high as almost to overset us. At length we insisted on stopping, and spent a quarter of an hour in anxiety and doubt, being unable to determine what we had better do. We heard the voices of animals in the woods, which some of us feared might attack us. At length one of the gentlemen declared that a sound which we had heard for some time at a distance, could not be the howl of a wolf, for which we had taken it, but must be the barking of a wolf-dog, and indicated that the habitation of his master was not very far oil", proposing to go in search of it. The gentlemen were unwilling to leave us alone ; but we insisted that they might need each other's assist- ance, and made them go together. But it was a long time before we heard from them again. How long they were gone I do not know, for we soon became impatient and alarmed ; but at length we discovered a light among the trees, which shining upon ttit trunks and boughs, made a beautiful vista, like an endless Gotniv- n'"h, ^ud showed a ^r (J 1791. 'or a time extremely dis- had joined us at Hudson bress), and endeavoured to vould but trust to his guid- ould be able to conduct us mi'ortable habitation, we followed him cheerfully, lose, and the forest seemed , When the last light at 'e found ourselves in the icd that he had encouraged tiiat as to any knowledge here before in his life. He orse behind our chair, and ran to lead him on, groping stepping into one mud-hole is silk stockings, sometimes It seemed as if we were eep hill into some bottom- es one wheel would pass s almost to overset us. At and spent a quarter of an g unable to determine what the voices of animals in iared might attack us. At eclared that a sound which a distance, could not be the ad taken it, but must be the lated that the habitation of proposing to go in search iwilling to leave us alone ; it need each other's assist- er. But it was a long time fain. How long they were soon became impatient and scovered a light among the trunks and boughs, made a Goiniv- ?.'"h, ^ud showed a LOST m THE WOODS. 109 thousand tall columns on both sides. AVe discovered them roturnm^T, accompanied by two men, who led us oil' the road ami stuck np hgluod pine knots to guide our friends "I luler then- guidance we found our way to a log-house. contu...:nc. but one room, and destitute of every thing exeep hospitable inhabitants; so that, althougli we were admitted we ,oun we should be obliged to make fuel. arrangeZtas' we could for sleepn.g. Tiiere was no lamp or candle ' Z 7" V^'"^ ^y J^'"'^ "^""'^ «t"''k i" tl'e crevices of ine walls, llie conversation of the family proved that wild beasts were very numerous and bold in the surround- ing forest and that they sometimes, when hungry, an- proached the house ; and there was alarge aperture kft it the bottom of the door to admit the dogs when in danger fom wolves. The iloor extended on one side but to withfn the ..stance of several feet of tlie wall, a space being left to kindle the fire upon the bare ground; and wlien wc wanted tea made, the mistress of the house could produce only a single kettle, in which water was boiled for washincr and every otiier purpose. Slie had heard of teakettles, but had never seen one ; and was impressed witii an idea of the usefulness of sucJi a utensil. AVhen wc had spread the table, out of our own stores, and divided tea-cups and saucers, a porringer, &c., amon- us, we seated ourselves partly on the bedstead, and partly on a kind of arm-chair! which was formed by an old round table when raised per- penclicularly, and thus partook of a meal. "AVe were, however, suddenly alarmed by cries or screams at a little distance in the forest, which some of us supp(,sed to be those of wolves or bears. Our host after listening a while, declared his belief that they were the cries of some travellers who had lost their way, and pro- ceeded with the gentlemen to search for them. They found our two expected friends, who had followed the path lighted by the torches, but unfortunately wandered from it a little and soon found before them a wall too high to reach from' heir stirrups. They attempted to retreat ; but found it also behind them; and though they rode round and round, feel- mg lor a place of exit, could find none, and then began to 10* ^ 110 THE SPRINGS IN 1791. call for assistance, hoping that some dweUing might be within the reach of their voices. Being hapi)ily rehcved and restored to us, the adventures of the evennig served ;is a subject of pleasantry. They had unconsciously entered a pound or pen for bears, by a very narrow entrance, Nvhich in the darkness they could not lind again, and thus their embarrassment was fully explained. We slept that mght on our luggage and saddles; but our hospitable hosts re- fused all reward in the morning. •' On reaching the Springs at Saratoga, we found b"* three habitations, and those poor log-houses, on the high bank of the meadow, where is now the western side of the street, near the Round Rock. This was the only spring then visited. The houses were almost full of strangers, among whom were several ladies and gentlemen from Albany; and we found it almost impossible to obtain ac- commodations, even lor two nights. We found the Round Rock at that time entire; the large tree which some years since fell and cracked a fissure in it being then standing near, and the water, which occasionally overflowed, and increased the rock by its deposites, keeping the general level three or four inches below the top. The neighbourhood of the Spring, like all the country we had seen for many miles, was a perfect forest ; and there were no habitations to be seen in all the vicinity, except the three log-houses, which afforded us little more than a shelter. We arrived on Saturday, and left there on Monday morning for liailston, which we reached after a short ride. But there the ac- commodations for visiters were still less invitmg. The Springs, of which there were several, were entirely unpro- tected, on the borders of a woody swamp, and near the brook, in which we saw bubbles rising in several places, which indicated other springs. There were two or three miserable habitations, but none in which a shelter could be obtained. There was a small hovel, into which some of the water was conducted for bathing; but as there was nothing like comfort to be found, we proceeded homeward after spending a short time at the place." Such is a brief account of a journey to die Sprmgs in the J 1791. some ilwelling might be Being haj i)ily relieved and ■ the evening served as a id unconsciouBly entered a ry narrow entrance, which ihid again, and thus ilieir led. We slept that night It our hospitable hosts re- t Saratoga, we found but Dr log-houses, on the high low the western side of the This was the only spring 3 almost full of strangers, idies and gentlemen from ist impossible to obtain ac- rhts. We found the Itound irge tree wliich some years I it being then standing near, ly overflowed, and increased ling the general level three The neighbourhood of the ! had seen for many miles, 5 were no habitations to be the three log-houses, which a shelter. We arrived on londay morning for Ballston, ort ride. But there the ac- re still less inviting. The several, were entirely unpro- ,'oody swamp, and near the ;es rising in several places, There were two or three ; in which a shelter could be II hovel, into which some of bathing; but as there was nd, we proceeded homeward the place." journey to Uie Springs in the r THE PRESS. ill last century; and how difficuh it is ,o realize th.f t), changes which liav.^ «;n^„ ■ '•-•iiize that the within the 1 ^ o L "a, r"'r^'"" '''"'■ '"''''" P'''^^ out findin. evidence o? i J ^r ' ''^''' ''" ''' '""'^ ^»'' effected i^ a sho"te: perToT!"' " "''' ^''""^ ^''^'^'--' «'''- On the road up Connecticut Kiver, over whirl, I n«. i umMmmM country within a few years. "" °''^' '''« schtlmate, on I tb s^ntcrX f '''? '"^^'"f*^"' ^" "''^ and recollecting th^ Z leZZ hlTh ^f" "''"^-fl--^ ^ editor of the vUlage j„u nal I re,l d tr^^ '"^'"'"'^^'^ past days, and Joungcd se era out f^.^'^'^^^'^^ «f my stay in the nhrn nl '" ^"* ™''™ *'"""& ovlrhea'r^^S^hle ittle I hTkr^''^ } '''''' ^^^'^ ^"^ of GSttenburg,''Ss:oen, S Zl tlLv' V'-'H'^ reached those'of Firmin Didot^ i 1^^^^:^ ''^ what a mass was tliero ' P^nf,,,;-, r . i ■ , '*°" the most useful. There was thp Z.\ii ' ' ' '"'"'^P* 113 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT ni\ F,U. r iu lumbering uprights and s.mp e swccpu,, 1 -' J'^l^ ^ « gree of reverence, because lU pl.ysiognomy >^f ^^ ^^ ""^. "" Lesions of chiUlliood, >vheu I had contemi.laled l a^ ^/^ Iress, though its phm is exploded, and the P-- " --^^ and tiie a4 of days' works that are now seen to have been tast d u^on it, nuJlu have n>ade iilty cana s -;-.-."• Next came to ".y view the fo ins. the .praros, the t.r^^^^ and the rest of their family down to duul,le tweuly-lour- raos, with their various bindings, gildings, clasps, and em- En 'displayed, and their lluttering leaves showuig hmts oft" tr contenk A deluge of ideas floated through my mind at the sight ; as I turned from the books which boasled only ot revivin'g the fooleries of anti,uity with Us know edge to U>ose monuments of modem mveutton,m w h c h 1 e giant and the pigmy, the amaranth and the four-o clock he "how forcibly may the quaint words of some of the old books of my vision be applied to the present times . "Circa hoc etiam tempus," says Caxton (in coni.nuntione Polycronici Kanulphi Higden, .\nglice a se transUui, qua, cunt opcre ipso prodiit Lon.'mi a. 1482 (as) circa a. lUo), "Circa hoc etiam tempus .-also abowtc tins tyme the crafte of empryntynge was fyrst founde m Magounce in ITmayne. Why the crafte is multiplycd thorugh the worlde \n ma^ty places, and bokes be hadd grcte chepe and m grete nombre bycause of the same crafte." ^ Like as says an"Anonymus auctor m 14o7 :— » Printerys of bokis wer this tyme mightely mulleplied m Maguncie and thursrh out the world; and thei began fnst, and they held the cniftis. And this time mony men began for to be more sotell in craftis and suyfter than ever they wer a fore." , i • i „„ After these came such a motley army of mankind as no masquerade ever presented, composed of the readers ot all ages and chines, of all hues and characters. 1 hese 1 cannot undertake to describe: but if it be as amusing to others as it was to myself to fancy their appearance, they may agreeably fill up some hour of leisure by recalling them. a i] c d c; Pi a ar Mu h A ] and anc we sine stru culti talei Gen skill read laboi over( marl* whic plant woul( ment ricuT nivF.K. ; sweeping lever with a dc- lysiogiiomy revived tlic iin- luul contempliiled il as the d, and tlu; power ol' muscle are now seen to have been 3 iil'ty canals across Daricn. IS, the (piiirtos, the octavos, wn to duul)lc tweuly-l'our- s, gildings, clasps, and em- taring leaves showing hints ideas floated through my cm the books which boasted inti' ""''"""'I^'J. -d in- AVhere do weTo v 1, 1 "■ T^^'^'"'' =>"'' ''•''^''"ff^. ^n,, in so::Kr:!T::::;zt:^'7r' ^"""^'«^- Americans? And the other fin .^\P^. "'^ "'J"stice of j^o a.,ong ..Join' ;:'^:t:;^i- -^ 'jVi^'^y-'^'^ f'lr ,11 treat these our true friends , ?. . "' ""' '° from their calls and rleltr I .^ r " "''"^ '">' '""^" - do not meet them S'^miK? Xm^e" ' 'r^' have reason (o look here for an asvin m I^T T' ''^^ tliough among the fairest e\wn«f.'/ ^''""'' *»"' have no native talent, ge i ,s o J^T" ( "'^•■>^'f— « pleasure on the beat ties of nnt , ! , '^'' '"'''' ^^'^^ -"ft the music orifcr '""but wrr""^^'^"^'' said that we are insensi/r ,? I '^ ^'"""P^^^s have centuries mu t pass S re ^ beauty and grace, and that «t..e of^rennemro/Tj;;SML;iir '' ^'"^ ^' '^^' y which the Gormiiu system of jiuenilc and popular instruction has been introduriMl in several of our cities, and to some extent in the country, diitlly throiifrh Messrs. Mason and Ives ; the success has been astonishing to those who have embraced the common erroneous views about national genius, native inferiority, tSic., Sic. This important step, to which many of the rising generation will owe great sources of pleasure for life, has been primarily due to Mr. Woodbridge, the eidighlened, philanthropic, and persevering editor of the American Annals of Education; who, after five years spent in Europe among the literary men and in- stitutions of the Old World, returned to his native comitry three or four years since to devote himself to the diffusion of knowledge, on some of the most important subjects, for the intellectual and moral benefit of America. All that a friend of the country need wish is, that he may impress us all with the great truths he proclaims as strongly as he has impressed some parents with the fact that their children have flutes and organs in their throats whicli may be very sweetly and very cheaply played upon. A young man, of sallow complexion and emaciated ap- pearance, who was travelling for his health, was on the route with me. lie had enjoyed no advantages of educa- tion superior to those of a district school, until the clergy- man of the village, perceiving hi him that insatiable thirst for knowledge which I have so often observed in the young when possessed of true piety, proposed that he should pre- pare for the desk, and oifered him gratuitous instruction. He was the favourite of the whole town, as I learned from other lips than his own, not on account of any external grace or beauty, for in those he was far from being rich; but because his character was of an elevated kind, and his life one of the most blameless and honourable. No friendly oflice in his power was withholden from anybody; and how many times in a year may a truly benevolent man confer kindness, if he but seeks for opportunities ! Every one in such a village of farmers knew what his neighbours did, without inquiring from mere idle curiosity. Of course the h h \\ u P' in a fo m na wl no die wa as£ coi ant our but of I din; of I had that spec som no til riruT Riviii. lassarhusclts Acailomy of tcin of jiupnilc and popular n several of our cities, ami ■, cliii'lly throiiffli Messrs. ,« been aslonisliing lo tliose an erroneous views atiout , tSic, itc. This important T jreneration will owe great I been primarily due to Mr. ilanthropic, and persevering of Education; who, after ig the literary men and in- rncd to his native coimtry jto himself to the difTusion nost important subjects, for ^fit of America. All that d is, that he may impress us laims as strongly as he has he fact that their children throats whicli may be very J upon. plexion and emaciated ap- for his health, was on the ?d no advantages of educa- rict school, until the clergy- [i him that insatiable thirst often observed in the young iroposed that he should pre- him gratuitous instruction, lole town, as I learned from on account of any external ) was far from being rich; of an elevated kind, and his nd honourable. No friendly len from anybody ; and how ruly benevolent man confer pportunities ! Every one in w what his neighbours did, e curiosity. Of course the RESPECTAniMTV OF INDISTRY. jjy Parly humble life of this vmi.l, ...„ i wen. .surpri.sr.l at the „„,,,|" . "" ^'""•■■^^'■- «tnmgd..„.t„n:;^.:: :;,,, ;7^-;-^ sion, but had lu.i v... c ! ' """'" •''«'''nt mis- ^HH.oient.oeie.iTh I ^"^ '"'''"•""«'-. •'' 'Hi^ious and whohadata;;;:'^ :;r'-'';];/:;>7';7 •Tged by his townsmen to ke ^'i... ''"*''"'■'' ^'''^ pan of the countrv w , .?. T'' ** J^""^ '» a more healthy k state, a j: ?i.:^Seiu:r '"""'' r '^ ■" ^ "-'"«^- a wagon, and su,l. co n ^ ' '""' "" "'*' '^""« «"<' for ut w^s looS 'uS ' '> Sd":rJ:^ r""' *" "^^" "^^ may yet live and remove Iho.e to Love " r^^''^' '"'^ native village. ' ' '"^"'"' '"' ''^no'"" '» his .Ih'wi:^t:;^^ :r;;r" -^^'-^ "^'"^ -^^ ^'^ nothing in the n.iln n ns h':;.::! ''^'"""^ , "'^- As dices of the people forbids the exalSoT^.V ? ""I ''^'J"' ward tendency is in a thons! J.. ""'"'' ''"■■ "P" assisted, when'in Z^ :!Z^ i^Z^^C r'. 'T couraged or entirely suppressed Tul ^^, '^"P^'^^^'X ^is- and distinction is n'ot o^ t p r ..H aTl 7'"'"" our constitution merely; it is not nnl!! ! . ^"'''"'"' '" but is fa.ni.iaHy k„ot\;'j^ „" r '^ ''C: it if" ^'"'^'' of notoriety, that not a few nf t\,^ '^ * ""'*"" clifferentle^medproet ons ha ' i"" T"" T"'"' '" ">« some ;f our luxur ordtLU^: ri ''• "'7'' r'.'°"^" not.ns. really believe thatZ:rr5;Lgt?SlS^ lit ROUTK HP CONNKCTICIIT HIVKR. r •n bonoHt haiulicrafl more (Ipgradinp than idleness in its gcntcclcr t'lirms. The hiiryinjr.^rniinds of New-Kngland are ainonp ihc most iiiieresliiiir oWjrcts to wliicli ilic triivellcr lan direcl his atte.ition. MonumciilM are to lie (mind, in ainioMt all ihc older HeitienH-nii, hearin),' uneijuivocal tesiiniony to the learninir as wi II as pii'ty of our niiccstors, and the good order whii-l\ lias ever prevailed in their Mti-iety. I wish, with all my heart, that I could refer to ihe condition of these veiierahle memorials as evidence of a hecoiniiij? regard for them among the ndiahiiantH, and a proper care for their preservHtion. Unfortunately, (piitc the contrary is the case ; for ancient grave-stones are often allowed to become over- thrown hy the frost, and to lie covered with moss or herbage from year to year. One single person in each village, by proper means, might incite the people to keep theii ceme- teries well enclosed, and kept in order ; and nothing but a little spirit is wanting through the country at large, to have the most venerable memorials of the dead preserved from unnecessary injury and from loss. So closely connected are many of these monuments with important events in the history of tiie country, that we ought to use them as practical assistants in the instruction of the young ; and parents and teachers might commtmicate many lasting impressions to their (children, by visiting with them the graves of the good and learned men of pre- ceding generations, inviting their aid in deciphering the epi- taphs, enumerating their praiseworthy deeds, and repeating some oftheir virtuous counsels. Why should such simple and deligiuful modes and topics of instruction be neglected, while much complicated and expensive machinery is employed to fix the minds of the young exclusively on distant nations and countries ? With thoughts like these, and with many feelings which I shall not attempt to express, I have visited many of the burying-grounds, usually at morning or evening, when the journey of the day had been performed, or before it had begun ; and thus 1 have sometimes obtained the knowledge of facts which I had not been able to derive from living I ( r i! s P ■i In ui cc g< se in< fie lea thi ho tas dci 1 jusi bov the flov nea of t thej livel so wou as V N try 1 Anili grazi com I ricuT nivKR. ratlinp than idleness in iU v-Kngland are nmonp the ilic triivclhT lan direct hi« le (luind, in ainioNt all the inivooal tesiiuiony to the r niict'slorn, and the good I in tlic'ir Mtcicty. I wish, Ccr to iho condition of tiicsc ■f of a lircdiniiij? regard lor id a proper care lor tlieir ilc tlie contrary i« the case ; 'n allowed to become over- vered with moss or herbage person in each village, by people to keep theii ceme- 1 order ; and nothing but a le country at large, to have of the dead preserved from iy of these monuments with y of tlie country, that we assistants in the instruction teachers might commimicate Bir children, by visiting with 1 and learned men of pre- ir aid in deciphering the epi- worlhy deeds, and repeating Why should such simple and istruction be neglected, while ve machinery is employed to tcclusively on distant nations nd with many feelings which I have visited many of the irning or evening, when the performed, or before it had imes obtained the knowledge 1 able to derive from living r AMIIBRST. no nmrk, that tho.o who hav^ f '. T, '":"^ "' P^f^'"' '«- Kroutuls. n.ay p.-rform a useful 'S bv ^ "''' ''"'y*"*' "criptious. and n.aking draw „i of m "' '°''^"'« "" .erved or published for .he benefit X;^^^ 'V.^T" and his own m.5,:^ri;i; ■!::?:; '"'^"^'7-1 contammg his collection will hercX bt ' . " "^ generation more worthy of iL dL 1 »"'^«'^ ''y «"me selves to be. "" ""»" "'f" «''"w our- field. I ha've not Ll;; Sail ,"'""'*'' """, ^''""«- less to record all the reflertinn f ^ "'emoranda. much this or any oti er p^, „ '1 T''"'' "''""''^ '» "'« «" however, iJ^i No iharnn.on n7 '"'7'^""^ '""'• ' •^'""'««. tasteful manner „:C 'rZ "' """%'*""-'»" '« ">« deneeisusuallycelCtedintb ."'">' f ''"^ ^"'^"P^"* In an orchard Zc ex. . tTh^r T' r ".""f"' "'*"• just out of sight from the s ree.s o the til ' ''"''-" ''"""''• bower is formed by adding 1 ""^"'' " «P»ciou» the shade of the .Tees "fl Tr'" ^"'^'^ ""^ ''"«» '«> flowers. A a ge tS^' sZd "*"' '," '^"'^ '^"^^'^^ ^'^^ neath ; and as the coA.ions o l''""'. "'" ""°"'^ «""« ^'^ of the fair the da/preSinrth '' f ^ '"^'f^ '''^ ''»»'^» they preside at thc^mcn inL .. "'' ''^'^'■''^^'^' and livdie'st and m aplp^^^ '^ " "" '' ">« so pure, intelligent a^,d n , "' """^'"^J- In would fi'nd mud t'o i str'uc him in a""^^' "" '""'^"^^ as well as .o excite h,s beurfee,";,;. ^'"""''" '"^"""«' try hV £ lo'faLTe"" '" ""^ ^^^ "^ '^^ -- Alherst. r had adm red r'^n"' " '"-'^''y P'^ee as grazing-cout^trT with it? n ''°'^' ''"■'""'^' ^"'^ '"'^""e common v." age! How leat' /"T* ""/' " "''^ ''"'y ^ -orthefinLeiisr:t!:3.^h:-us:;rr^^^ 120 ROTTTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVER. the most flourishing in the Union ; and two academies, one for th- eusly to 1704 ; the others, ex- taken and burnt. The inhabit- a long time^ until the savages. INDIAN BATTLE. the house on some'acco , t, "ok ,^' ^''° havn,g slept i„ •"the midst of the %ht, honint '""''.{'"^'"nity to leave it hole cut through the f on T ^ u ^"'' '"'« P^'^"^^' The •omahauks is Stil, i: b" c„Ts t'ell'" '"'''"'^ ^'"' "-i' "'«de by bullets which they fir J^""'' T'' °'' '''^ '^»'«» "ght and left at hazard oL of h " "'' '"'''"« °" »he -;^ o^a^.nale, and killed he;?:: Ctt^tiSt: «P""gs, which have trickled /h?" *;'''• ^^^''' «>• ^ur «eent, appear to have cut as m' ^^ ''"^" "'« «'«^P de- equal distances, i„ thence oSl7 ?"""^'«' »' "'"'X are thus left, which from some poinfj' ?"'^'-^' P'^J^cion; isolated eminences. One of fk ^ "'^^ appear like Fort, I ascended with a^ es^eeme'd^- "1' r' '"^'^'oh.^k who pomted out many spots wShh^T '^°'" ^'"^ ^'"«g«. from their connexion wilh eiHv I '"'"■^'' '" ""X •'yes •earned, that the spot on wh.Vh L sT'l'- ^'"^ '""' ^ "'^o derived its name from having hi' T ! ^^Ported to have date, by the Mohawks, who^are kn^'"^"!' '' ^" ""-^^"^i" encroachments on the Indian, of pl ''' '"^''^ ^rea' ^ From Deerfield I pursued .h/ ^°"""'="e"t R'ver. Je Co„,,,,i,„ the'scene o th °fi ? ''"'"'''' ^«"«' on Phthp's power. The river ,11 ''"'^ '''"'^'•°^ ^^^'"g point, with a tranquil surfac^n 1 n ^^'"^ '^"^^^^ '•°"«d « « round hill of sand, with a na'ro/r""^ '' "■" ^■''' "f «eems toone descending i^cu rent toT °" '^' '^^''' erruption to a long mounta no.w? ^^ "" ^"''""t in- ;'«elf running norfh and oh " ^f ' """'^'^ ''ere presents ow, however, it makes a nlrn i \^""'er of a mile be- forty feet, down whid. befoJerd "'" '"'^^"' °^ ««>«« l^PP^y of a canal of a few ^iles ""u- '''''"^ ^'^ '^e eedlessly went to cer..inl,ZllP' rl^'' '^^'^^^'""^ fehXlr^ira--^^^^^ "'^^-f.asti„,,eywer;^---'-t7^ 128 nOITTE tJP CONNECTICUT RIVER. volunteers from the towns, principally iVoni Northampton, ami mimy oflhom (iestroycd. (ireat miabers, jumping into their ciinops without tiieir piidilles, went over the falls. Some of the assailaniss, however, were killed, prineipally in the retreat, during which they were hard pressed hy the rallying savages. The bones of a man were found a few years ago, in a secluded spot among the rocks below the falls, wUh the remains of a musket, and a number of silver coins of a period not later dian the dale of this battle : were doubtless the remains of some soldier engaged in it. Having crossed the ferry to the foot of the hill, I ex- amined the situation of the fort, deserted so long, picked up a few arrow-heads of stone, and bones, took many fine glimpses and several sketches near the falls, and mounting my horse, proceeded by an unfrequented route to Bernards- ton, where I proposed to spend the night. The landlord seemed ohliging ; and while my horse was receiving the at- tentions of his boy, I took my seat by a fire. 1 had just begun to feel impatient at not seeing any preparations making for my tea-table, when he came to invite me into an interior room, if I chose to sit by the family fireside. I cheerfully assented, and spent the remainder of the evening (for it was late when I arrived) in a neat little apartment, in pleasant conversation. Some of the older inhabitants of this part of the country have a little knowledge of the early condition of the coun- try; though the changes have been so great, and so many generations have dwelt here in undisturbed security, that it is difficult to imagine what were the trials and difficulties of early times. " Our meadows now are cheerful all, Our rivers flow in light : But cedars wavM their branches tail As round her clos'd the night. " The path which seeks the lov'd abode You knew in childhood sweet, Perchance, was that the captive trod, Mark'd by the panther's feel." r e a I; ii a fc hi C( lo P' ICTICXJT RIVER. rinripally iVoni Nortlianiplon, (Jrcat iHiabrrs, jumping into ;i(lillcs, went over tlic falls, er, were killed, principally in y were liaril press;ul hy tlic 1 of a man were found a few , among ilie rocks below the uskel, and a number of silver n the dale of this battle : were e soldier engaged in it. to the foot of the hill, I ex- fort, deserted so long, picked le, and bones, took many fine s near the falls, and mounting iifrequenled route to Bernards- md the night. The landlord ny horse was receiving the at- my seal by a fire. 1 had just not seeing any preparations n he came to invite me into an sit by the family fireside. I t the remainder of the evening ;d) in a neat hltlc apartment, nts of this part of the country lie early condition of the coun- ve been so great, and so many in undisturbed security, that it vcre the trials and difficulties vr are cheerful all, in light : their branches tail osM the night. seeks the inv'd abode lildhood sweet, liat the cHptive trod, lanlhcr's feel." 120 CHAPTER XVir. I ? I Copies of ancient LrtterH, illustrating something of the State of , y» 1 lung, .n tlus part of the Country early in thf last Century. ' I' I HAVR in my possession some old papers, from a family long resulont in one of the older settlements on Co.n.er«^ River, wh.ch afford hvely evidences of the state of the coun- the past hundred years and more. A few extracts will here m r^n m"' V^t' ^^r''!''^"'"" "''^"^'' "^ "^«-V '-'" a"y interest in rm tiers of this ktnd. Our ancestors early made up their ni nd on certa.n .mportant subjects, and went immediately wl !E:^? "T''- J^'^y'^''^ ""' -"«fy themselves with talking phtlosoph.cally, or forming theoretical cobweb., as 80 many European writers have done, merely for the amusement of a pleasant day. Instead of waiting^ till he n neteenih century, to ask whether the times, orfhe spiri! of the age, or the march of mind, as the fashionable phrases are, did not demand the mstruclion of all classes, they be- gan before the middle of the seventeenth, to require it by law. And what has been the result? While, in the south 01 burope, Ignorance is teaching at this day that knowledge nf h! il^ Y '" V' ' '^' ^'''''' '"''«»'''''»' °f this part of the Union has the noble blood of knowledge in his veins, and can trace it through a line of ancestors uninterrupted for one or two centuries. With this come the habits of «|onduct and of thought, which are cherished and cultivated by the influences of a virtuous and intelligent society; and hence arise those valuable traits of character which are commonly attributed to this people : traits which cannot be looked for under other circumstances, and which cannot be produced by other causes. First comes a plan of a fort, which was ordered to be 12 130 ROUTE UP CONNECTICUT RIVKR. built on the river's bank, with the following directions, ac- compiinii'd Willi ii lettt-r dated — "The (i){urp of the fort to be built in the Long Meadow, above Norlhfield, together with the inner building. » The box a to bo placed easiwardly over the river bank ; the passage into the mounts to he from the lower rooms, through the door of the mount, e\cv\n that at the norwest angle to be from the chamber through the side of the mount. The eastwardly box to be elevated so as to see from thence over the others. The timbers to be bullet proof. The fort to be twelve or fourteen feet high. The timber to lay the chamber-floor on to be so high that a tall man may walk upright under them. The buildings within twelve or four- teen foot wide. •• The inner wall, as well as the fort and mounts, to be made of hewed timber. The housing to be built linto-wise ; the roof descending from the top of the fort. The outward parts of the mounts to be supported by timbers, laid four or five feel beyond the corness of the fort, not to be cut at the laying. The lower timber to be heightened by a short piece, and the floor of the mounts to be level with the highest timber. The end of the floor-pieces to go under the mount pieces. It will be best to fell the timber in the old of the moon. One of the first services will be to cut and dry good limber for fire-wood." " Capt. " We have sent Henrick and three men and two squas. "The three men's names are Eraza, Cossaump, and Joseph, whome you must take into the fort, and release of the English soldiery four of your Englishmen, viz. John King to be one of the three men most ineffective, exceept the hired men, as I wrote to you in my former letter — and them you release must leave their guns for to supply the Indians, and we shall see them returned, or a reasonable price for them. And King must leave his gun as others do upon the same terms. This you must be carefull to take, and keep an exact account of the day of their release, and of the entry of the Indians, and so of more Indians that 1 ii e c 81 Ol hi se spi spc res to I for ., J76* «m able, though noJT, tm i /° m T"^" '" ^«" »" I closely eonfinfd lo th^ iTm L^J ^''T '^ ?« ^^"^ »«• ^ein, been almost three weLcolfdh '"^''' ^^"^ ' »•"« ness. which brought r^e near t.L^h " ^7''" ^' "'" «'°k- derful forbearancf of cl3 1 JiS' .?™?'' ""« """" my strength recover nLan,rml ^^"^'^ened yet farther, -eivi./good ye7';:SoZrz'7jr, t:,^-? -«« sible of my privileges uLr^t.fir '^"'^'" '"sen- p.'.o„ had mo,.";:!'- J/ST"" *h" "'r * 134 ROUTE VV CONNECTICtTT RIVER. the just expectations of God and men ! Su.v'.y you will be constrained to pour out your soul before God in my behalf, '• I am sorry you should think it wou'd be a trouble to procure the few things you sent for— so far from it, I ac- count it a pleasure ; and think myself more obliged to you for employing me thai, you are to me for sending them. The respect you show to the memory of my dear and never-to-be-forgoilen sister, I return my grateful thanks for. Tiie removal of so great a part of my happiness renders this world more troublesome, and the remaining comforts of life more insipid. 1 have been more composed since my dear Mrs. was here than before— her company was of singular use to me, as she is now the most intimate friend I have on earth. I much question whether I shall ever see her again, as she has so many friends to visit, and I can see no prospect that I shall ever go so far from home. I have not heard from her since December, which seems an age. " The account you give of the burning of the Orphan House, I am apt to think, is a false report, as we have never heard a syllable of it ; and it looks most likely that we shou'd have heard of it by the post. " Nothing very remarkable occurs to my mind at present. It is a time of general health. Pray when you see Miss , offer my respectful compliments to her. " Company coming in obliges me to close, with the offer of my service whenever you have occasion for it, with the assurance of my sincere wishes for.your prosperity, and with my humble service to the good Col., hi* lady, Mrs. — — , and yourself, in which my mother joins (my father being absent). « I am, Dr. M , " Your most humble servant." Pray favour me with a line ) as often as you can. ^ ricrx RivKR. il men ! Su.i '.y you will be j1 before God in my behalf, nk it wou'd be a trouble to nt for — so far from it, I ac- myself more obliged to you re to me for sending tliem. B memory of my dear and Hum my grateful thanks for. irt of my happiness renders and the remaining comforts en more composed since my n before — lier company was i now the most intimate friend ition whether I shall ever see friends to visit, and I can see [0 so far from home. I have jmber, which seems an age. f the burning of the Orphan 'alse report, as we have never it looks most likely that we post. occurs to my mind at present, ■alth. Pray when you see il compliments to her. res me to close, with the offer have occasion for it, with the s for .your prosperity, and with lod Col., hi6 lady, Mrs. , nother joins (my father being Or. M , ^our most humble servant." 135 CHAPTER xvirr. comprehension of ,he poliue,, sy..en, "S 'n X ^L' render tlie operauons of socieiy inlellijible Fv.,„ T seems a. once free and depended pSIj „"1 '""« one su>school icre was new evidence that iation was in full operation d to consider the amount of ', and daily, in the country at one of these societies tends leart, the head, the feet, and t has been made for the first lotion of any such object, by before, benevolence, activity, !e are often necessary, in a success. It is the nature of intellect, to gain strength by SABnATH-SCHOOLS, 139 lZol^ec;n;dT'/sei;L '^'''T'' '° «'■'" ^' e^'ery city, vlinge, and uml i ' ""'' ^ ''"'' " '« 'hat is a Bible...o,.ie,y or a 8^ 'u T', '"""""J' *^^^« "-ere be sa.d to have had its O ven a J T^ T '" ''"'' -"«« port of s,..h societies and .""'"'■ """^e sup. tion ; and hence J2JZluT'r, "''" "•^''- '""""da. busy manufacturers al.7m 'chant' ;:'%""""^''^^ "-» labour of some societies and „ r ,' "''"•" '*>« ^^hole of them, depends. I 's J Tj '^' '^' '^»«t efficient practical skill and knowled'e T "f ""' °'^'^" '^"'^ "ore tbeir philanthropic pursu h fh.rinir'"" i"."'^ ''i'^^' «f around them. f they fi,^d' j ,1" J" "'" ^''"^« community '« their o^vn circle, tly lil ulT'' °'-, «"«^«"rageme„t and regard ihemselves^s eonnl^ '." ' u"""'^"' 'P*'"*' system of beneficence, by ;,,ieh her ""'^ "" ^'''"'«'^« come habitually expanded !n I V 1"'"'^' ^"'^ ''««'"' be- elevation and 'a W wteh"' 'hT„:''""'r ^•=^'"- ^ training could confer ^ ^^' "^^ «"»^'- course of he feels that he is bound to ^"V".«^«'"='a"on of this kind, of conduct, and that any deviation' f5^' '"'^ T"""" '^°""« and disapproved. He finds hT,? ™ " '"'" ^' observed similar influences, and the wLrr"'"'. "''" '^'''^'^ by and refined. At the same time ^Llar'n "' '"'^'^'^^ P""««^ •nterested source from which thl f^"''"'"' *"'' 'be dis- feelings as well a, mutj "Ttr"^' T'"'^'' ^^»'«™^ sexes, which often prevai o^eTal TZ^ '^' ^'""'^ °^ ''«''» station, family, and property ,'f'^f ^^'^ '" P™fes«ion, according ,o 'their cha^. , ^ '^'l^^^ « ».'- take rank society presents a kind of iitt ; renubt 'I'^L '""^ '^'^ not purchased, and office, are uZid ' '" ""^"'^ '''''' «« hed^d ;:; tr::::^::^:::!^^^ ^'^aracter ortheyoun, taking with them, wherever the v.^^,"""" "' ''^""^''^ ''«' they enjoy at home. AsZlS^l'l' T''''''''^' ''''^^^''g -..ne.tdationwtthh.mtf 2;:-- -t^^^^ I 1'^ j^Q nOUTE UP CONNECTICUT niVER. Of greater value than any letter of introduction. He cannot JeiS a claim to the name, for notl.ing bu- hab.t can famihar- « him w h the operation, of a Sabbath-school sudicently ocorveTr intelligently on the subject; and many a httle ShlbbTeJh would be detected in any one who might attempt to pass for what he was not. I xvas once led to rellect on the security which the bab- bath-school often gives to strangers, in K>rming op.n.o.is oj each other, and exercising mutual conhdence by having entered one myself, where I w^s received as a feilow- labourer, miknown, and yet well known. Seeing a stranger enter and silently seat himself, one of the teachers immedi- ate y Erected the attention of the superintendent to me who Td Lced with a respectful bow, cordially gave me his hand and invited me to walk with him round the school. I felt that was all in order ; and penetrated his heart because I hadioften been placed in his situation, and acted exactly as he Sad done and intended to do. I saw that he took mc ?or a teacher from some distant town, but received me only in tJerSore general character of a friend of morals and in- teligence which I had professed by the fact of entering his door H s doubts were' to be settled, while his first dunes of courtesy were performing during our circuit arnong he c asses Some of his remarks on the course of studie natural y led me to replies, from which he plainly inferred mXiliarity with SabL^h-schools ; and were followed by Z^Zs concerning my own experience on certain points ^which he had found difficulty. Thus the fact of my being a brother-teacher was satisfactorily established. He then apologized for the vacancy of several seats, by stating that he had recemly formed the school, at the wish of the different churches in the vicinity, and received teachers as tell as pupiU from several congregations of different sects, ; Uh such recruits as had been drawn from »he manufae ones on one side and the farm-houses on the other. Without anv knowledge of his sect, or a single attempt to ascertain U,he respectfully requested another stranger to make an address to the school, when it should close, to which he consented. Seeing a class of children without a teacher, v a h a z< k 01 ECTICIJT RIVER. r of introduction. He cannot lotliing b\i' habil can familiar- a Sabbath-school sumdently \e subject ; and many a little in any one who might attempt n the security which the Sab- angers, in forming opinions of nuiual confidence, by havmg I wrts received as a fellow- ell known. Seeing a stranger If, one of the teachers immedi- the superintendent to me, who w, cordially gave me his hand, I him round the school. I felt id penetrated his heart, because la situation, and acted exactly to do. I saw that he took mc int town, but received me only r of a friend of morals and in- ssed by the fact of entering his be settled, while his first duties during our circuit among the arks on the course of studies from which he plainly inferred schools ; and were followed by n experience on certain points fficully. Tlius the fact of my satisfactorily established. He mcy of several seats, by stating 1 the school, at the wish of the cinity, and received teachers as congregations of different sects, en drawn from the manufactories houses on the other. Without , or a single attempt to ascertain 1 another stranger to make an len it should close, to which he 1 of children without a teacher, THK BEArxiKB OF NATl'RE. Ml v.'ho had come from some of the poorest dwellinos in tHe ne.ghbourI.ood. I voh..,teered to instruct them, and was soon seated w.th the Question Book of the Wican Sun- day-schoo. Union and the New Testament open in my h.nds at the lesson for the day. When the' hour S elapsed and the speaker rose. I surveyed the assembly with h refIect.o.t that hundreds of thousands of ehildre/we e thus asse.nbled .n the oou.ury for similar objects, under the instruct.0., of tens of thousands of teachers. Such re/iecttons are impressed upon the mind more deeply ,na, 1^» , Connecticut does nature, animate and rSaT'fsalK. ^"'"™^^^'^' ^^^-'^" -'- --^^^ It IS easy to perceive something of the extensive and powerful influence which such assoeiatioiis a e exertl^e upon the mnids and hearts, the manners an.l habits of 2 countrymen, as well as the importance of having such im^ provements introduced into thL system as miglft renderl more perfect and efTectual. Such gratifying intfrviews may be enjoyed every week. We may part! perhaps even Jgnoram of each other's names ; bufwl ;u?fS^^^^ ho«e of Bunyan's fr.ends,. who "went on rejoicing, fnd I saw them no more." Such a morni.,g exercise gives warmth and elevation to the devotions of the day. .rP^!"fi'' .•""'•'''"''•'•"'' '^" C«""^^'''ieut is admired, a great deal of enjoyment is often lost by not having the ad- vantage of the most favourable light to see it in. The broad and level meadows, with all their fertility, and the swelW ulls and woody blufls which by turns imerrupt them S appear tame and uninteresting when the s'un isl'Te zenith ; but when near the morning or the evening horizon oftTatter. "''""" "^ ""'' '"'^ ^''""^ ^" '^e vTdety "re are to become objects of general attention and study «cenec^nf' '.! ",' ^'" """'* richly, and the humblest scene can furnish real pleasure to the eye which intelligently 143 ROUTE VP CONNECTICUT HIVEH. observes it, and may ass-ist in raising the heart to objrch far above itself. " I have in(iuirptl of mr.iy plain people oi' good sense," remarked a highly-intelligent and ingenious gentleman, " to ascertain whether there exists among our yeomanry any distinct conceptions of beauty in the objects of nature ; and I fear they too generally look with interest on a fine walnut-tree, merely because they associate with its size its greater value for fuel." And as for hills and streams, he was apprehensive that the first are regarded only on ac- count of the wood or stone they afford, and the other as they contain fish. Certain it is, that while we all possess feelings which sublime and beautiful objects must move, and fashion begins to incline many to talk of scenery around us, as it formerly forbade us to praise any thing American, there is a great, an almost universal inattention to the true prin- ciples of fdste among our countrymen, which proper means might correct. We have sufl^cient native talent around us to furnish pic- tures whenever they shall be demanded by public taste, and paid for ; while for scenes, we are abundantly supplied with them, both for landscape and historical painting. When fashion shall once have turned, I expect to see a strong current setting in favour of the ornamental arts ; and I think the great and various changes we have heretofore seen in society, warrant us in the hope that something important is yet in reserve for us on a matter connected with so mucli that is truly refining. Let our artists, therefore, raise their dejected eyes, and continue to employ their leisure hours in the creations of their rich fancies, or the portraiture of richer nature, believing that the time will come when their produc- tions will be appreciated, and exert their influence upon society. Such reflections as these, and many more, were excited by a vish I made not long since to a young artist, who has devoted such moments as he could spare from a variety of other employments to the study and practice of painting. He has refused, wisely perhaps, to trust to an art so pre- carious for the supply of his bread, but has made consider- able progress in drawing, colouring, lights and shades, in r a c V tl tl :ticct river. raising the heart to objpcl! ircd of mr.iy plnin people ol ily-intelligPiU and ingeuious hrr there exists among our ins of beauty in the objects of iierally look with interest on ause they associate with its And as for hills and streams, irst are regarded only on ac- ley aflbrd, and the other as s, that while we all possess iitiful objects must move, and to talk of scenery around us, ise any thing American, there inattention to the true prin- itrymen, which proper moans lent around us to furnish pic- lemanded by public taste, and are abundantly supplied with I historical painting. When ed, I expect to see a strong ornamental arts ; and I think we have heretofore seen in e that something important is atter connected with so mucli r artists, therefore, raise their I employ their leisure hours in ies, or the portraiture of richer I will come when their produc- d exert their influence upon and many more, were excited ice to a young artist, who has could spare from a variety of udy and practice of painting. ,ps, to trust to an art so pre- bread, but has made consider- )louring, lights and shades, in BATH. 143 In. leisure, at least enough to gratify friend, and please him- sell. And are tlicre no means by which the attention of In.. " "^i^'^"'-f '«n''^^«d useful as well as graiifyinp he W'r ' '"'^ P"'"''"^ "'"' ^'"' "" ''""' «' '^o daily! he would improve mor. rapidly than alone; and if theh- number were mcreased, the benefit to each individu" would become proportionally greater. Now let it bo sup- he attention of a few persons in even- village, and employ he tin.e now spent in frivolous rca.iing, idling at corners hstlessness and vacuity, or even a tenth part of tl at Ti^e •' would not a taste be cultivated, a knowledge gained S nught lead to a more just estimate of the art and a highrr ap. prec.aUon of our leading artists ? Would they not ilra ly be better rewarded and more highly encouraged, and the pubhc benefited by turning a little attention tf theltru ! tions which the canvass can give T Again passing over many miles and pleasant villages, and adm.nng without praising the fine farms and hardy pSple of Vermont and New-Hampshire. I approach the WhSe K CHAPTER XIX. Approach to the White Hills-Bath-Refloction, on Societv-Th. >\.ld Ammonoosuc-Breton Woods-C^awford'LsceneVT Bath appeared very pleasant to me, for the same reasons that places where travellers find Welcome repose co2^\f YTr'- ■'""^^^'^'^'^^ the comfortable ac commodat,ons wh.ch the tavern alForded me, I had the ad. t^ sfttini '''TV ^^""" ""^" "'^ ^'"P'"^ t'^^"- «f both the se tmg and the ns.ng sun, which are so favourable to the picturesque features even of the tamest landscape. The 1 i r r 144 THI WHITE HILLS. village is small, but neat, and had two or three very pretty houses standing back from the street, in t!ic midst of ^rass and trees, beside a due proportion of shade and open field on every side. Here are two smooth and fertile levels, as regular as artiticial terraces, rising from the bank of Con- necticut River ; and every thing around me retained an aspect appropriate to that stream, thoii},'li its diminished breadth and the wild uplands gave me the painful recollection that here I was to change my route, and penetrate into a more •avage and inhospitable region. As I bade a femporarj jidieu to my native stream in the morning, and while my horse was taking due heed to his feet up a rough and stony hill, my tlioughts pursued its cur- rent downwards, through the region I had just been travel- ling oTer. How different were my feelings on leaving the Thames, the Seine, the Itiiine, the Arno, and the Tiber ! I had found nothing there wliich satisfied the heart like a social or family circle, and the state of society which sur- rounds us in our own land. Although no gaudy show of wealth had here in any form been presented to my eyes, I had nothing to regret in the absence of such palaces or equipages as arc so much ad- mired by many travelled wits, and occupy so many of the books of tourists. My mind had been agreeably occupied with reflections on the nature and tendency of such a state of society as there exists, the simjile causes which had pro- duced such desirable effects, and the measures by which they may be rendered productive of many more. If certain enlightened philanthropists of Europe whom I might narao but possessed the facilities we enjoy for contributing to the benefit of mankind ; if they were among men and circum- stances like these, the results of two centuries practical operation of free and universal education, under a govern- ment owing its existence and all its prospects to tlie propagation of knowledge and the diffusion of virtue, with what zeal, witli what liope, witii what success would tliey labour ! If I could see those enlhu jiaslic friends of knowledge in France, wiio have just erected that new and splciulid fabrici the national system of public education for the king- r ( i s n ^( n hi in to CO of tO( rei M( Wi his sha roc do ) Wij the and grea had geol hens mem scier to nr their in thi to att but tl better pare 1 finemi been i IIILL9. 1(1 two or three very pretty itrcct, in i!ic midst of ^rass m of shiule and oprn field miooth and fertile leveln, as iiig from the bank of Con- iround me retained an aspect ii{;li its diminished breadth lie painful recollection that S and penetrate into a more to my native stream in the as taking due heed to his ny thoughts pursued its cur- gion I had just been travcl- niy feelings on leaving the the Arno, and the Tiber ! 1 satisfied the heart like a state of society which sur- 'ealth had here in any form lad nothing to regret in the pages as are so much ad- ind occupy so many of the ad been agreeably occupied nd tendency of such a state inple causes which had pro- nd the measures by which e of many more. If certain Europe whom I might name ;njoy for contributing to the ire among men and circum- of two centuries practical education, under a govern- l all its prospects to the he dilfusion of virtue, with li what success would they Lijiaslic friends of knowledge ted that new and splciuiid ablic education for the king- T WILD SCENEnV 148 -er.. pircJn among ' eo ,1 :/; f '"'."''f'''^ *^-''^'-- ready and capable L, M ,f / / ^ '"^'•'' ''"^ """^h "'oro '"'n/Hnd to raider bbn ' """ '" '"^ "'""'""'•O'' ''7 too pure and Jofty /b h '^ ;^;'" " "^ 'l-s-gn., which are of the best men in "he I W i r^"'^''' "'"' ''^'^'^ ^"'"e too much in advance of I "re charged with being -«aiuto3up'r;:.:[,Sr:^L;';^'"-"-'>ot.iS Wild Ammonoosuc! f Lt 11 ' l'" '"""^ "'^ ^''« '"s feelings deenlJ uLll i f ? "' ^ '''''«•''« ^"' ^nd shadowing^o 7ti t . '^ "'f ^'""'" «'' ">« °^«^r- rocky omfnljic's . ;; ^ST;; ;'^''; ^^ ru,,e, and o no, , ^,^^„ -;of ^';o - .„ , , the b-anks'sht' mrX' ''7 7} '"-''i- ^s' nnd ."-'yof th"er;tVa ;sn ;;ptJSi '"rr^^ preat height from the rrroun.' n . 1^'"' ^"^ '« » l.ad been' purposely Sr'to gi "rV sStTr^'' geology, in the laboratory of natifre- and v„n r t "'' '"* scientific in:;2: I h£:; ^ 'aildtS^ "' ^^^'!J in thirpart' nhe I :;" ^^^J^-"mln.rnnnU.,ii.uonl to attract the be^rs n?' """^ "°' '^^^^ ^•''•"^s enough better choose som otil " o, te f eo"7, '''"'.'''' '''^ ™> entrance by a genteel young woman, uo THL WiUlK ItlLLn. T who, with a »ini;uhir inixtiiie of 8imi)le kngitafje, plain drea-M, s.:ir.res|HMt, modnsly, lUunt, ami appropriate expres- sion, asiied my wislics ; and alUT a lew (p..;siion« and re mariv.s, uhidi betrayed sense and knowUnlge, pro.'ccded to asMHl ill preparing my dinner. At the table, whi.U shv spread, she presided with uiialVeeted ease and dignity, and made me almost forget an exeelleut meal by her more intcr- estinir eonvcrsation. She nave me a sketeh of the win- tcr-sccnery in this inhospitable region, and showed that there was sufllcient reason for bestowing the epitiiet mU upon the Ammonoosuc, which poured by withm hearing of the house. After dinner, a little library was thrown open to me, and I had ii hundred or two well-seleetcd and well- read volumes at my ('^sposal, with a sofa, and solitude for ft nap, all which 1 enjoyed. , , ,• In all this I read the efleets of a good private and public American education. The young mistress of the house had been taught at the academy of a village below ; and, what was of greater importance, had been trained up hya mothc; of no common character. Some persons would have said that she had been accustomed to good society; but, per- haps, that was not true in the usual sense of that word, though I doubt not that whatever society was around her was good in a better sense : that is, intelligent, simple, and virtuous. But what is generally intended by good society, is that of fashionable life, which is no more able to form such a character as wc approve than the wild Ammonoosuc is to make a purling rivulet. To those who know our state of society, it will be sufTicicnt to add, that the lady of whom I speak had been a teacher in the Sabbath-school before her marriage, and betrayed in her conversation an acquaint- ance with some of those other great systems of benevolence which so much interest, excite, and bind together die Prot- estant church, while they enlarge the views of individuals, and give a powerful direction to tho public mind. As I proceeded, savage life seemed more and more to thicken around me ; and after I had become weary of look- ing for another habitation among the lofty hemlocks, trading wUh tufts and strearacrb of moss, I began to reflect again IK ltlLL^< c of 8in\i)le lanfriiagc, pbi'.i liii'iU, and appropririte txprcs- altcr a few (piesiion« anil rr anil knowU'ilge, piocccilc.il to er. Al the tabic, which »hv iHVclcil case ami ilif^nity, and ccUcnt meal by her more intcr- avc nic a sketch of the win- !l)lc region, and showed that for bcHlowinfr the epithet wilJ h poured by within hearing,' of little libiary was thrown open or two well-selected and well- , with a sofa, and solitude for a ts of a good private and public (foung mistress of the house had of a village below ; and, what ad been trained up by a mothc: iome persons would have said Tied to good society; but, pcr- the usual sense of that word, atever society was around her thai is, intelligent, simple, and erally intended by good society, which is no more able to form rove than the wild Ammonoosuc To those who know our state nt to add, that the lady of wliom ir in the Sabbath-school before in her conversation an acquaint- ler great systems of benevolence cite, and bind together the Prot- nlarge the views of individuals, )n to tho public mind, life seemed more and more to icr I had become weary of look- mong the lofty hemlocks, trailing moss, I began to reflect again T illE HEFINKMENT OF 80CIETV. 1<7 on the civilization I had left. If intHI.eoncc. thon^h. J. „ lound m the Scotch and Swis. mountains, where ,, .hl.r* any excuse for its not pcnctratin,^ the r.-motcM n^ions of tlic (.luted Mates, where popidaiion exists? What is the or.jfui and nature of our refmemenl, and how can it be ex- tend,.! and j.erp.tUHte.l ? Who shall answer for u. these qucMtons? Who .hall tell «h how we may br,i act or, 1..-. nnportant subj..,. ? Where is the man who has ^iven It all the consideration it deserves! Is there a habitation or a imiversity which contains the individual? If .so. his thoughts should be known over the whole country ; he should prea.-h to us all ; he should iiwtruct the nation in their duties anil their destiny. Certain it is, that if we would study the subject aright, we must divest our minds of foreign views, and think mdejit'iidently and for ourselves. I «hail not easily forget the admiration excited among a party of distinguished travellers, a few summers since, by the manners ol a young woman who attendi'd them at supper, m a little country inn in Massachusetts. The Iriends, who were partly Spaniards and j.artly South Ameri- cans were so niu..h struck with her dignity and grace in discharging the humble duties assigned her by her parents that they often made it the subject of conversation hundreda of miles distant. \ et they never seemed able to appreciate he state of things among which she had been educated, and were (]uite at a loss to account for the growth of such pol. isheil manners m a state of entire non-intercourse with courts and even cities. To me it never was surprising that tliev adnnrcd the reality of what they had previously admired only m counterfeits; and as I had some knowledge of the nature of the society to which they had been accustomed, as well as of tliat in which she had been bred, I saw how natural was their error, how unavoidable, in their circum- stances, their ignorance and doubt. As for good manners, that external sign of infernal refine- ment, those of a genuine nature can never spring from a graft ; they are the fruit of a good heart and a sound head. Counterfeits may be fabricated, but it is an expense of ma. chinery often incalculable, and after all thei; baseness ia 148 THE WHITE HILLS. i W' ' ! S'?|f usually discoverable, at least by those who have any ac- quaintance with the pure metal. Master Rattlebrain, junior, is sent to a dancing-school by his half-fashionable half-seri- ous mother, not to learn to dance, not to waste time or money particularly, but to form his manners. This is con- sidered necessary in Pans ; and the Parisians are the politest people on tiie globe. This is a better reason than a certain sort of people generally admit in questions of moment ; and the youth is perhaps found a few years after improving his manners in the capital of fashion. A whirl of dressing, spurring, tandem, and, perhaps, four-in-hand succeeds, and in a few years you may write his epitaph, if you would tell the truth, " Here lies a victim of good-breeding — falsely so called." Ah, these juvenile frivolities lead to dissipations of the mind and heart, which the fond parent sees about as clearly as he does those of the morals and manners which too often succeed them when more removed from parental oversight. Yet this springs not from any inherent vice in the pleasing exercises, but more from the want of that sound domestic education and virtuous and sensible example, by which good manners should be implanted and cultivated. Parents who are easy and refined in their manners, need not have boorish children ; and if they give a son or daughter intelligence, and accustom him to talk sense, and to exercise kindness and to show respect to those around him, they need not fear that he will anywhere speak like a fool, or act with impropriety. My reflections on such subjects, however, were interrupted by the imposing wildness of the scenery around me ; and though I may, perhaps, have penetrated further into this matter, I will not longer trouble my readers with such re- marks. After a solitary ride of several hours through Breton Woods, along an avenue cut through the forest, with innu- merable tall trees rising on both sides, and almost covering me from the sky, I reached Roscbrook's house. In a world of silence and solitude, the human voice, form, and face are valued as much above their worth as they are often depre- ciated in the crowd of a city. I had got tired of loneliness, whether of myself or trees, I cannot tell — I believe of both ; HILLS. y those who have any ac- Master Rattlebrain, junior, is half-fashionable half-seri- uice, not to waste time or his manners. This is con- the Parisians are the politest better reason than a certain 1 questions of moment ; and w years after improving his lion. A whirl of dressing, fouv-in-hand succeeds, and his epitaph, if you would n of good-breeding — falsely •ivolities lead to dissipations le fond parent sees about as I morals and manners which lore removed from parental ot from any inherent vice in from the want of that sound 3 and sensible example, by implanted and cultivated, fined in their manners, need r they give a son or daughter talk sense, and to exercise those around him, they need peak like a fool, or act with ;s, however, were interrupted le scenery around me ; and penetrated further into this ! my readers with such re- eral hours through Breton irough the forest, with innu- 1 sides, and almost covering icbrook's house. In a world an voice, form, and face are th as they are often depre- [ had got tired of loneliness, innot tell — I believe of both ; ETHAN CRAWrORD's. j^g tl-kyou,"saic^:?a^t: r'al^^^^^^^^^ men are just sitting down to dinner "Lt^^^ T ^^*^"' '^e several of the neighbours are heJe" . J M ^'''',f' " ^"'^ "T/rSot r Larticles ^^^J^^^T'^''''' ing for the stra'^e^To;' \ r.^ , ^ ^^ TTT'' ''''- '« features, dre?s, and complex on Jn7 "^'"^ '" ™"^^ robust, ihat I felt as if .hpT£ n u ^f '"'^'"^ '° ^"" ^nd ture with a puny mofa 1 L I n"^^ T" ''°"""°" "«■ deers'horns wii, ohl hi . .u^r' '^'" ^'^'^' ^^'^re them; and th^f was ^ 'rr J of fh; '' ''' '""^ ""^^ giest garments wbinh n, 7^ , ^^ '■°'''"^^«' '''"'^ ^hag- region! ofperp; a Snr'"Rf ''^'^ ""' ''''' ^''^'^ ^Y th« mature, goKn"e 2 ^^'^ T""'" ^'^''''y' "^^'^ Sood- famiharyofafriendlvrnll J • ul ^'^^Y ^^^^^'^ as deep in the fore t at iff" k"^ ^ ''^ °' '''^^' ™'^«' and'as for wSk^ys/bearsT ' "'^ "™" *'^ '''''' ' is tt: mi,:ri TJ:s::r ^"'^" ^ ^•^^^'•-'^' ^^^^ had approaeh;d Xu myteirrat^'r'"""' "'^''^'^ restriction put upon my eyesiKT. '<• "'=''«""' «f the opened to my view onlv TJr ^, ^"'^^^ *''^^«' ^hich I therefore pr^esseTr^ni at lenX' '"'J-'"^^^^' ^"'«- ground whL the w^bltXlT^X f^;: T" ""T ram w th violence an,l «n«o ,., ""s'y m my face, drove the now reached, as AfterS;^ '"'\ ""f '' '''^ «^'"- ' ^ad through the mo^:^r:^'z^:^^^ °'?^ p^- generally blows with cons W. ! f ' .''^'^ '^^ ''''"d north or south, as tWh a n,n , ""' ""^ "'^^^^^ ^'^^er 150 THE WHITB HILLS. accustomed to the saddle ; and I did not at first discover the cause. We were near the Ammonoosuc, here a small but headlong stream ; and the current was dashing down a ledge of rocks a little on the right. My ride was such as doubly to prepare me for the enjoyment of a siielter and society ; but the beauty of Crawford's meadow, as the storm ceased, and the sun shone upon it through the breaking clouds, made me linger to enjoy the first scene of beauty in the White Mountains which is presented to the traveller on this route. A broad and level lawn now spread before me, covered with that rich green which the herbage here receives in the short but rapid summer ; and the solitary dwelling of the hardy mountaineer appeared, with a few cattle straying here and there. Tlie whole was apparently shut out from the world by a wall of immense mountains in front and on either side, whose mantle of foliage extended nearly to tlieir summits, but left several bald peaks spotted with snow, where the elevation forbade a leaf to put forth, or a root of the smallest herb to penetrate. This scene seemed so attract- ive, that I was constrained to inquire why there were not more inhabitants. The reply presented a sad reverse. For two months only out of the twelve are the mountains ac- cessible, so that few travellers visit tl»e place for pleasure. The meadow, with all its beauty, will scarcely yield any thing in the short summer, so that grain must be obtained elsewhere ; and, in short, the place would probably have been abandoned long ago but fo/ the winter travelling, which makes the house the resort of many country people, with their loaded sleighs in going and returning from Portland and other places on the coast. The valley, an object of attrac- tion only during a few weeks, and a great thoroughfare but in the winter, has its alternations of liveliness and almost en- tire solitude, which are looked upon by the few inhabitants of the spot with great interest, and supply themes for many an entertaining tale of woodsmen and travellers, sleigh- drivers' adventures, and the habits and pranks of wild beasts. It was arranged that a party of travellers, assembled at the house, sliould set out at an early hour for the ascent of Mount AVashington. B HILLS. I (lid not at first discover the imonoosuc, here a small but 3111 was dashing down a ledge My ride was such as doubly nt of a siielter and society; loadow, as the storm ceased, igh the breaking (;louds, made iccne of beauty in the White to the traveller on this route, pread before me, covered with age here receives in the short olitary dwelling of the hardy few cattle straying here and ently shut out from the world lis in front and on either side, nded nearly to tlieir summits, ipotted with snow, where the put forth, or a root of the rhis scene seemed so attract- I inquire why there were not presented a sad reverse. For welve are the mountains ac- R visit the place for pleasure. eauty, will scarcely yield any 10 that grain must be obtained e place would probably have fo. the winter travelling, which many country people, with their returning from Portland and rhe valley, an object of attrac- and a great thoroughfare but in s of liveliness and almost en- ed upon by the few inhabitants t, and supply themes for many dsinen and travellers, slcigh- abits and pranks of wild beasts, rty of travellers, assembled at an early hour for the ascent 161 CHAPTER XX. Notch-Old CraxvforU's-B^rtiet""" ^''"^ ""' Snmmit-Tbv that tlfe timThL^a^ivUr t. ,^t:£^^^^^ wt.e ot the most eievat no- natnm w 'i-«t-ciuiga buried in the forpsf fnii!, " • , ^^® '^'"'^ ^oon after »eemed .o „, more like i„„i„c, j,a„ „„ „ " '„"& ^ ">«" foUowmg up the wild valley through whichU e^mZ^ '^ pursues its early foursp lit« » r Ammonoosuc lovely and sechfd d L fof home" tr t'' ITf^'^ future life will bear it. to rl^n nolore D^n. t^/'^ mendous flood of isar? ti,;. i '""^''- i^urmg the tre- We passed the little spot where our .rni^n „„ to await thf. rUin,, „f .u ""'^'^c our guide once stopped il i ii j> 152 THE WHITE HILtS. were more rapidly ascending than vvc supposed all this time, our rapid gait gave us considerahlc fatigue ; and when we approached tlie little shelters, thatched wi.li birch-hark, stuiFcd with green moss, and strewn with spruce brandies, where wc were to breakfast, wc were much cheered at the prospect of repose, A roaring fire was soon kindled between the two wig- wams ; and, stretchuig ourselves upon tiie green and sloping couch which had been prepared for the weary, in the warmth of the blaze, and amid the delightful perfume of the ever- green leaves beneath us, we fell asleep. When we awoke, it was broad daylight, even in that valley, of such apparently immeasurable depth ; and after a hasty meal of dry bread and Hitches of salt-meat, roasted in the fiame, on forked sticks, with the best of all sauces and the highest spirits, we prepared for the most arduous part of our expedition, which now lay before us. Nature seemed rousing from her slumbers ; and in such a region motion and repose arc alike sublime. Millions of tree-tops gently undulated m the rising breeze, and the ceaseless sound of the rushing brook was heard in the pauses of our conversation. Compared with the large trunks of the trees around, and especially with the enormous mountains, whose lofty society we were seeking, our huts, ourselves, and our worldly interests shrunk into insects' concerns. The ascent of Mount Washington is a veiy laborious task, although a great part of its elevation above the sea and of Comieclicut River, is of course surmounted before arriving at its base. I was not prepared to find this noble eminence rising so abruptly as it does from the side on which we approached it. After leaving our resting-place a few yards, and entering a thicker shade of forest trees, we began a steep ascent, over a surface broken by roots, and occasionally by loose stones, which soon checked the ardour with which we commenced it. It was nearly as steep, I believe, as the side of the cone of Vesuvius, though not so smooth. How little do we think, in our towns and cities, in the midst of our indolent hauits, of what the muscles are »ble to perform, or of the pleasure we may derive from their B niLts. an wc supposed all thia timCj >ral)lc fatigue ; and wlien we i, thatched wi.li birch-hark, ilrewn with spruce brandies, Nc were much cheered at the ndlcd between the two wig- es upon tlie green and sloping d for the weary, in the warmth ightful perfume of the ever- ill asleep. When we awoke, hat valley, of such apparently ?r a hasty meal of dry bread sted in the flame, on forked auces and the highest spirits, luous part of our expedition, ture seemed rousing from her gion motion and repose arc !e-tops gently undulated in the ss sound of the rushing brook )ur conversation. Compared trees around, and especially , whose lofty society we were I, and our worldly interests ishington is a very laborious f its elevation above the sea of course surmounted before not prepared to find this noble as it does from the side on 'ter leaving our resting-place a :ker shade of forest trees, we surface broken by roots, and which soon checked the ardour it. It was nearly as steep, I ne of Vesuvius, though not so liink, in our towns and cities, lauits, of what the muscles are asure we may derive from theii ASCKNT OF MOUNT WASHINOTON. say, coffitatino- whnf n..™i^ Y''"'^"^ "ad often bent, I dare ^vhich they hfd b e„ St™ hed'"'' /"""^ "^ debility "; nauseous dn,gthe7shouiri, !'''°" '^''" "^e-i^. and what spirit of luxty. ^ S.W ikSV." "7 ""^^ """'^ ">« «viJ I^each, after se.Lg 1 L shro.l T' ^"f '?'" '^' ^'^^'"S H-ont, over MoneslTroo s a,"l ^ '"^''^''''«'»y«. «« they -insensible ^/^U^J^Vl^Z:;^'' ^^i'-"'^' Jange which /e no.icll rsin h' th. " "• ^''^ «"' J^'Hs was instantaneous. We eft '/^^^'^''^^''''le trees, step, the deciduous forest and nlV ''V ''''^ "^ single nearly equal in size t th ek er'tfL'''',.^'' '^" ^•"' hesc for a few minutes thrv l!: '''""""^ ^"'ong -hed in size one-h f 'o;''!,^;*^''^'"^, ^'"'''^"'y clirnin! reared entirely, leaving Levposa' to Th T'^^'^ ^'^''P- «louded sun. Our guide now eluL ' ^'"^ "^ »" » '- steps; ''UtwcdidnoffuUyapLS^^ "? '« look to our '"g. u,u.l we had two or three tTmes sir f '^^"^ ''''^^ deep crevices between the Lse' '"''"' ''"" ^«°t into treading, concealed by ZkeZJrZVV'^"'^ ^« ""^re now the only vegetable n7n T.-^" ''"'^'"' ^^'"eh were these gradual^ b^^neX ^slr Tt tf^" ^'"'""^^ Jiad disappeared tliat we could wflL I k ""' "'"'^ "^^y surface iiad ere this h^nL "'"'' security. 7'j,e o\ the rocks. irmi;;re";rtffe' '" ^ '^'^^ ''- edges, rendered the passagr^tTl lar n ""^^i P°'"'« '-^"d than we could have desirT "'^^"«"«' and more slow wh^::^;;.::; r^;;!!!--"^- ^^y colon. we had reached he point vpr , '' ^"''^"'^^i ^ut when 154 THE WHITE HILIS. to say with respect, that Mount Washinjrton had some claim to its name. Indeed, when we he^an to perceive tliat wc were already above the inferior summits, nan-cd after several of the other Presidents, which had appeared so great from below and at a distance, we felt that we were in tlie resrioii of real exaltation; and although Washington was still above tis, could 'ook down upon Adams, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and what not. When we find a spot where man cannot exist, we want to see what can ; and I began to look round for any thing with legs. Black flies, of course, like volunteer jurymen, will not stay where the absence of mankind /loes not allow them to find employment. Nothing with life could 1 catch or see but one miserable black bug. One of the earliest accounts of the ascent of this noble eminence which I ever read represented, I recollect, that the summit was scattered with fragments of the limbs of pine or hemlo(!k trees, bleached by long exposure, and re- sembling stags' horns. The comparison was a very apt one. These bits of wood have, no doubt, been carried up by some of the violent gusts of wind which are common in mountainous regions. A gentleman once described one "which he saw some years ago. A roaring was first heard, soon after the tops of the forest trees on the summit of the opposite mountain were bent violently down, nnd then many of their knarled branches were seen flying in the air. The wood found on Mount Washington has proved convenient to visiters suffering with cold, as it will Make an excellent fire. For ourselves, we suffered most from thirst ; and could hardly allow our eyes their expected feast upon the bound- less landscape, until we had demanded of our obliging guide to be conducted to the icy springs of which he had spoken. He soon brought us to a hole in the rocks, where, only three or four feet down, we saw a small bed of ice, which was slowly trickling away in tears, under the indirect heat of the sun. We caught these pure drops, and found them a most refreshing draught. This was the highest head of the B HILLS. ; Washington had some claim IjCTdu to perceive that wc summits, named after several had appeared so great iVom It that we were in the rec:ion rh Washington was still above Adams, Jefferson, Madison, re man cannot exist, wc want n to look round for any thing mrse, like volunteer jurymen, :e of mankind \loes not allow iothing with life could 1 catch k hug. Us of the ascent of this noble represented, I recollect, that ;h fragments of the limbs of hed by long exposure, and re- comparison was a very apt ire, no doubt, been carried up of wind which are common in jntleman once described one ago. A roaring was first of the forest trees on the tain were bent violently down, led branches were seen flying id on Mount Washington has 3 suffering with cold, as it will most from thirst; and could ;xpected feast upon the bound- lemanded of our obliging guide irings of which he had spoken, in the rocks, where, only three . small bed of ice, which was >rs, under the indirect heat of pure drops, and found them a lis was the highest head of the Vrrw FROM MOUNT WA.HIN«TnN. {05 prepare,! „„„el,c, u JZ " a„'d ,aLT' "''"' "' ''"^ moment would be SlSS! ' f'^ '''"'"'" ''""'''^^ than Moutu Jefferson Adtmsw'"'. * ^'''^'"^ "P ^"^^er selves, who were Sentrn' J^"*'""^'"". ^"d even our- from Lch otE ;t:;/"'''"P'^'^ ^^'""' «"'^ «'■'''" concealed rorVeTsiTtTtttr/o'c?^^^ ""^-°-^'« '^7 however, embkc tie ^etfT 'T''.'^'^'''''''^-ol "There's the lake" Thl^f u fYT"" P^n«'-a«na. lake!" exclaimed Crawfo^LntVt". 'fT.'^ '''' SrSSSSSSS the romantic country on [hssS 'of ^ But dSnr^'"* '' perhaps, was owhi o a va^ and"botfo 'T^'T ' "^'^ ''^^^' fore us, overflowinVN^^th ap;l r^'^'''^'^''-'"^''^^- caldron sitting on .T,-! . ^ , " ^" immeasurable i i /^ ^1 . '.I i ; P 156 THE WHITE HILLS. the poor insect body it had left on the top of Mount Wash- incton. , ,., . , " Well, there, there, there it opens at laM ! cried our guide once more; and turning towards the norlh-calstwc saw a vast extent of country, comparatively level, yd with its lines of fields and roads tiirown into every variety ot curve and angle, showins that tiie surface was very far Irom being most favourable cither to the cultivation ot the m)iI or the transiiortation of its fruits. " There's the Androscoggin; don't you see it shine like an eel along through that valley T The bright course of a stream was seen dividing the dark surface of the eartii, like the white trunk of a silver bircli seen on tlie verge of a green wood, while its iribuiarics, less broad and less distinctly visible, gleamed like the branches. The mountain on that side descends a thousand icet or more perpendicularly, ,is abruptly as the llock of Gibraltar where it looks on Spain ; and noiliing can be more dangerous than to wander without great, caution, amid such mists as Ire- quently surrounded us. Travellers have been occasionally exposed to great labours, and have sometimes suffered mucli from hunger and thirst as well as apprehension, by unad- visedly trusting to their own sagacity in visiting this place, often so diificult to find and to leave. A man, or even a party, might wander for hours round the sides of the moun- tain without discovering any clue to the proper paths, when the vapours intercept the view of every distant object ; and even if they should reach the bottom, they might wander m various directions in the forest below. Towards the west and north we had opportunities to con- template the scene at leisure, and began to feel familiar with the optical habits of hawks and eagles, by looking upon the world beneath from a sublime height in th<( air. On the horizon lay the Green Mountains. Distance and the contrast with nearer and more elevated peaks seemed to have diminished the whole range to a mere cornfield, or a garden-walk broken by mole-hills. The valley of the Am- monoosuc opened beautifully to view just below us ; and Crawford pointed out with interest bis secluded dwelling in I V h c fi fa in ha soi is tha agj hov and fati'i stro ing tion able HILLS. on the top of Mount Wasli- opens at last!'' cried our towards the norlh-pat«t\vc .'omparatively level, yet with llirown hilo every variety of die surface was very far from the cultivation of the soil or " There's the Androseoggin; ,'1 along through that valley'!" n was seen dividing the dark while trunk of a silver hirch cod, while its iribularic?, less B, gleamed like the branches, [-.ends a thousand feel or more the Rock of Gibraltar where T can be more dangerous than on, amid such mists as fre- ellers have been occasionally lave sometimes suffered much 11 as apprehension, by unad- sagacity in visiting this place, to leave. A man, or even a round the sides of the moun- lue to the proper paths, when r of every distant object ; and bottom, they might wander in t below. h we had opportunities to con- and begpn to feel familiar with and eagles, by looking upon bhme height in th " ""'^ «» «P«ak. ail this came through Uevf T' ""'■'"P''"^ »« «f he eye's pupil! Creat!>n F "" """"'^ """Jow 'H'fe'hty's handivvork; tremetlu, """' '"'^'"' '^ 'he Al- ^-ha-ns, ,vith the numb C tiLrr'^'".^ '- ^^'«"d<=d ramble nuheir presence, "dJev"! '^,'' '''"'''^ '<> forests, and vilJaaes all L. V' ^'"'"^' ^"'^ "vers, fields f >- •' . now dimSiv^'? S^^^^^^^^^ 'y - .g'ance 'ofth'e' how mmute is that .elescope y^Z 1 " "f ''"'"'»" '"''""•^ i f nJ wliat a sentinel mustT' I u ""'"'^'-ful its power ' ^;-^;>i'ant of the fabric tre'LMh;;'^?''^ """'"' 'he in-' Jfffht and admirat,;„ this "'n!^'' ''"'^'^««>f«^ whose whose ten,porary use these T " ''^'''''^ ^^'"'^d, for hound together, this cuno„r . ""' ''"'^ "'"^cles were p.structed.and7r;rm arr"',"" ^° '""»""/ far transcending all thatrjIseTrT '''"'' ""^"°«n. A night of sweet sl,.,.n \T J ^" ^"^ ""agine. fatigties'-of that da;. '^' ^'^^ '^'' '' « ehildferased the hardy Ethan Crawford and his ft„"il^T "' '^' ^'''^ ^"^ sorrel horse, after a senaritinl % 1^ ^ '"°""'«'^ again my - true, but which bTblTnZ ' m '^ ""'^ «"' «^«y^ '^^'. I had a great d al o J, "'"'^ '' ™«"X ^^eli^g, agam at the chain of thought wh t'"^ ""^ ""'"^ '« g^* however, seemed glad to cHhl ' ^ ^'"'^ ^'^' him. He. and I rode along the nJth h /'^"''"'''"'^'^ ^^'"h me again • fatigue on foot,i^,t',^„^;2^^^^^^^^^ ""•ongly ten,ls to consult luxurv , *■' "'^ •""» ^hich so 'ng influence they exer Le unZ ^ '"''' '"'^ '^' ^^F^^s- t'onwhich theanLa "ormEted t^^'r'- ^'''•"- — ". the walking r^^^ :z::::^ :--^ i r 16S THE WHITB BltLB. iarrinir the whole system. The chest, braced by recent Bleep following real fatigue, and by the breathing of p.'rc mountain-air, felt prepared for harmony, like a hari. fresh strung with wires of steel. The beauty of the morn- ing light on the sides of the mountains also exalted my Jce - ings, and I could not refrair from a song of praise m accord- ance with the scene. , . ,• , u I travelled four miles along a level road, wmdmg tlirough a dark forest, without meeting a living thmg; when I reached the Notch House, which str-nds solitary m the little Notch meadow. One would think the level a very low one, as the land is too flat io be well dramed. I he Ammonoosuc had been left a lillle behind, when I reached the Saco, a mere brook, which disappeared m front ol me behind a rock. Thither the road led me; and a sudden turn to the left brought me into the gate of these mountain!' the famous Notch. The scene chantred Us aspect tc wildness and sublimity, and the Saco, breakmg its classy surface into foam, set up u roar which it contmued to make for thirty miles, when it reached the meadows of Conway. i . • It would be pleasant to me to while away a week or two in these mountains, in the fancied society of a tasteful and ir.dul- eent reader— one of those patient and forbearing beings whom I imagine myself talking to when I meet with any thing truly sublime and noble in my travels : but 1 know very well, when I coolK reflect, that it is presumption to suppose that others are of course pleased with what greatly deUghts myself; and, however unwillingly, must hasten through this gorge, and leave numberless objects untouched : many a thought and sentiment unexpressed. In going twelve miles, between the two Crawford houses, I lost four full hours of which I can give no account, unless by showing the drawings I made in my sltetch-book, or deserving pomts of view whose details are impressed on my memory. Too thoughtless of time even to look at my watch, forgetful of food and rest, I rode and walked, and stopped and stood : the Saco roaring and rushing on one side, and Sorrel plodding along on the other, or gazing at me with the bridle on lus nitLs. he chest, braced by recent I by the breathing of p^^rc or harmony, like a hari* The bfwtyof the morn- uniains also exalted my fcel- n a song of praise in accord- , level road, winding through ng a living thing; uhen I hich str-nds solitary in the ould think the level a very I 10 be well drained. The little behind, when I reached ich disappeared in front of the road led me; and a t me into the gate of these 1. The scene chantred its ly, and the Saco, breaking its ij) a roar which it continued I it reached the meadows of while away a week or two in society of a tasteful and iiidul- atient and forbearing beings ig to when I meet with any 3 in my travels : but 1 know ect, that it is presumption to irse pleased with what greatly rev unwillingly, must hasten mmberless objects untouched : unexpressed. In going twelve wford houses, I lost four full ) account, unless by showing tetch-book, or deserving points wessed on my memory. Too look at my watch, forgetful of ed,and stopped and stood: the one side, and Sorrel plodding at me with the bridle on his r b 1( tl tl 8( It C( th ar to I 3: JOVRNEV TO B08TOW. jgg iipck. Poor faithful beast I Ho and I .li,l nn. the intimled place of rent lill I., ■ . J ""' ""'*<' »' Harilct is a nlca«ant liitic villnrr. i.. .. • i eight „nl,,H h..|.,w the e der CWf. , "'"''''' "'''''^°'^' entered uduIIM as if tlSolS:^t;.i recoverin^r ,hc exercise of the soei-.T ^"''""'y ,»' ""y "'cr wc reaii.... i,. the famii;:e He v itr" """"'<' ''o ^vc are depcn.ient on the vie.„ u- „ o h f A.^ '" ''"^'' '^'' our dady enjoyments; how .na,"y i^^ J , i^ ^ "^ hearts are ..-aused or incre-iHi.,! f„/.i ^''^'^'ons of our thetic ehords around u'd t'T^^r '"'"J'' "'" "y^P*" bound to our nla. e" hv -i thl, I' ' "' 'P^''''' ^'^ »^« influence.. If L.^atffedr /?'""'' """«'' '''^'*''''«. -oh a. we do at ^^^ Icti!::::^:^^^::^;' if his warmest feelinirs arc as strn„,,i., ."''''''' ' aounds and objects fafnili^in^hrwi wtaHllrite "'S 'k" lowmg of cattle, the features and th vni^ r "^"^ '^« undoubtedly the case, wi^atr^ln JThTo" vThrrl'''^' '^ has een able to induce him to change hi habhsV'"^"^"''^ The days I spent on the borders of thnt J. ! ' ■ . beautiful lake. WinnipiseoRce, a wel il^n' "l"'^ ""^ leaving it. with the fJh in L wa ers he ^nvf '^'".^ ""^ the deer in its proves and th^M .'''""' «''°'-''«' these and the seen! of c^ntttmen act. . "" 'f ^^°'"' ' jented along the Merrimr^rru t^ ^^-reM: "lIL^'^^ It IS time we were at the great centre of all ,h '^' 160 CHAPTER XXI. Bo.ton-Environ.-LiteraTy Institution—Mount Auburn-Rematk. on our Intellectual Machinery. Boston is situated on ground favourable to the display of the city from almost every point in the vicmity. The sur- face rises towards the centre, at Beacon H.11, where the dome of the Slate House presents a conspicuous object. The acclivity at the same time exposes to ^niew not a few of the larger edifices in different streets. 1 he irre- gularity of surface, however, has its disadvantages; and some of the streets are inconvenient and even dangerous m slippery seasons. The heart of the city defies the straighten- ing hand of improvement; but the quays and the adjacent streets are of a size and regularity which our larger capitals might envy. The wharves, while they attest the natural defect of the harbour, bear honourable evidence to the taste and enterprise of the merchants; and the market ,s the most splendid in the coumry. The fine white granite, which is used so much for columns m New-York, here forms the material of entire and elegant blocks ; and, what is of personal interest to travellers, Trcmont House is un- equalled as a spacious and genteel hotel in the whole Lnion. The harbour makes a fine appearance from every emi- nence; and the surrounding country, diversified with bold and swelling hills, populous villages, and elegant country- seats, offers attractions superior to the environs of any of our other cities. Indeed, no plcasanter or more varied tour of ton or fifteen miles could be easily desired than that which maybe made, by hard and level roads, round the circuit of Charles River. On the eminences, Washington formed the line of troops with which he besieged Boston m 1776 That end of the horseshoe wliich overlooks the city MOUNT AUBUKN. 161 3R XXI. lutions— Mount Auburn— Rematk* :ual Machinery. nd favourable to the display of oint in the vicinity. The sur- e, at Beacon Hill, where the presents a conspicuous object. time exposes to vievir not n different streets. The irre- r, has its disadvantages; and ivenicnt and even dangerous in of the city defies the striiighten- but the quays and the adjacent ilarity which our larger capitals while they attest the natural onourable evidence to the taste hants; and the market is the itry. The fine white granite, r columns in New-York, here and elegant blocks ; and, what avcUers, Trcmont House is un- enteel hotel in the whole Union, le appearance from every emi- l country, diversified with bold villages, and elegant country- erior to the environs of any of » plcasanter or more varied tour aid be easily desired than that ird and level roads, round the On the eminences, Washington ith which he besieged Boston in rseshoe wliich overlooks the city m., thri'zTh? eo^ ''' r ""'-' "^ «""^- the south-east, viz Dolchelr S'"\"''' '^' ^'"'^""^ f^""" a circular fort. Wriu ^''^^'''J' ««"• the wall of ments in New-EnJIanJ ' "■' '"""^ ""^ '^' earliest settle- the A.henLm, Ic / Jf^'^^^'^f "^"^"^ Historical Society, regarded almo t as in t'L 7"'''^ .^""'^^' ''^^'^ "'^Y be though not now the IsfL'\"'''^; '^ '^' ^''' «"^«^ved, Wh/w,]] „ot our w^althv n "^^' '"'•'""''"" '" '''« Union fire at the noWe era'Sl^whM 7""' k '" ""'^'^ ^'^'^« ^^^e Bosronians, in foste ^^^ earni ' ' Vh " t ^'? '^ ""^ probably superior on iL uT^ , ^^^ public-schools are i'' so, of';ourse o : , orheTs t thl "°" °' ^"""^"'^ ' «"d ever, is not taught as e«s J "Tl"^- ^'■"'"^' ^ow- slates notbeinSedfor^h r' ^" '"'" ^' '" New-York; schools, alsc^fre tit, ^""u^T '^^' S"^'' ""^ hoys' some inconveriLle^ Th ' '"^ """ ^' «"«"^«d ^^^h ferior, being under a distncf r"'"'7.-hool3 are vastly in- a numerous and unLnaSlT?''?' '"'^ '^«"«™"«d by ean hardly be expecTed toti "^^ °^'"'"' '"''«* «''^hom in that important dtarrmenT",^"'^ '^' i'nprovementa therefore, you find thp olTf . ^ . i',^ '"struction. Here, the poor'lL: S Idren et1":n1''^'T -^-'s-with apparatus, exercises sLT„„ ^". '^^ ™'""' without telligent device to reifn^l "' '"^ ''^'' ^"""^"^ ^"^ in- hle.^ In Bos on. however ?..°'f ''''°'-^°'"^'«l«^=»- of a eomparativelv homo^;' '"^''^''^ !^' ^''^' ^'^''^ntage prejudice in falour of e^S^ '"'^ " ^'™"S the New-Yo k S tu„ '°^K- ^ """"^^ '^' *'"^'^^« "^ if they should SmUthe ct 5'"^ would befall their books. they do in BosS or ,? '" *° '^^' '^'"^ home, as leisure to speak ?n hSil ^'•^^"'".schools I have not roomtogiv?tt?o tfTelr^TLfar'^' T^^ ' dences I met of th^ no,,, . f i ** ^"t"® of the evi- the femairschools ' ''' '"'^"'"^^ '' ^^'^ion in some of .w 162 BOSTON. to it is disappointed. The spot is very pleasant ; nature has given it seclusion, with pretty sights of green hills and woods, which acquired for it the name v f Golusrailh s v.llage years ago. And nearly in the state of nature it still re- mains : the plan for its improvement iiaving been as yet completed only on paper. There is nothing to impress the mind as you approach it with feelings appropriate to an ex- tensive cemetery. Walks and avenues have been planned, and little signs inform you that here among the bushes is Cypress avenue or Cedar-walk; but in many places you have nothing else to lead you to suspect where you are. The visiters who go there for a ride, and leave their carriages or horses on the borders of the grounds, often in- terrupt the reflections which a sober mind would wish to indulge in on such a spot. The plan is far superior to that of the New-Haven burying-ground, where, as 1 "ave re- marked, there is a want of variety in surface and shrubbery, and little seclusion from observation. The example set by Boston, in forming such a cemetery, it is to be hoped may be imitated by many villages as well as cities. It is in several respects an improvement on the ancient New-England plan, though much more accommo- dated to it than to that of some other parts of the country and large towns in general. In cities, public and private tombs are used, and small and crowded burymg-grounds, often at an expense which would procure interment at a distance in some retired scene ; but in the latter there is often less security, except strict precautions be taken. Cemeteries should be planned with reference to the living as well as the dead ; and should at once be conve- nient and pleasant to visiters, guarded from injury and every thing like disrespect. They ought not, I thmk, to be placed in the centre of a village, as they generally are, nor yet too far remote from the habitation- of men. If they arc con- stantly before the eyn, they are regarded with too much in- difference, and the ground is often made a thoroughfare and even a place of sport by children. In some instances new and more retired situations have been chosen ; for there is no objection to separating the burying-grouud from the t n s P C] in be m IN. is very pleasant ; nature has jr sights of green hills and I name v f Golusmith's village ! state of nature it still re- »vement iiaving been as yet ere is nothing to impress the feelings appropriate to an ex- . avenues have been planned, lat here among the bushes alk ; but in many places you u to suspect where you are. for a ride, and leave their ders of the grounds, often in- a sober mind would wish to ne plan is far superior to that round, where, as I have re- iety in surface and shrubbery, rvation. I, in forming such a cemetery, ited by many villages as well spects an improvement on the hough much more accommo- le other parts of the country In cities, public and private nd crowded burying-grounds, would procure interment at d scene; but in the latter , except strict precautions be 3 planned with reference to the ind should at once be conve- guarded from injury and every ought not, I think, to be placed they generally are, nor yet too ion" of men. If they arc con- ire regarded with too much in- ofien made a thoroughfare and Idren. In some instances new lave been chosen ; for there is the burying-grouad from the NEWSPAPERS. ^t:;^::zt]Zr rr- ^-"^= ^- in »Pot, in laying it out 0"^^ ''''^. "' '^' election of a ^ Newspapers arrirsoJ^^:"?nls ""' '"^^^^^"' '- /ashioned literati mmni I ^ ^'"^^' P^sts. The nM and ask, What is it but ZwZ^ '" '\"^ ^"^ growwise with "^en di/Ibrent from wLt Sr/.'^'l^ ""'^'^ ""'•youn; "ten to one of this clas ol 'r '" ^V ^''"'^y ^ould I 7"'Jsay, it i3 owi„; io i./r/"'"'°" ^« '^"°-' So far as newspapers haian e J S L''"'-''- ''^«'^^« 'his. to the,r qua/ity, not to the facuha tthlv ' " '' ^'"•'''"table the evil of the bad is DartJr !» ^ ^'^ newspapers ; and not providing good eZ^Z^Z^ 'f "^' "^^'-"n secure a good public taste Thl ! ? *""'^^ Precautions to papers so long suffered „ow ^^'''' ""''^'- "'h^^h news? !="'ninal: it was at least shL''^'.''V" ^''' ^'^'^ S -pona.,ee had been rr ^et ^ f' '^ '''' '' ^^'^ P-en been taken, they would have'h u^''^^^'' measures had "'"ch more good and far less evuTh '"''' '"^ ^^"'""^ o" But as fo. ffettinrr aln„ J I ^^'^" "°^- and the probaVeVrr^ f,;::^^^^^^^^^^ the present t'on. Every man, at least in Vh^'' " " °"' °^the ques- has any regard for h/s charac^elt ^"'' "'' '^' ««"ntry.Tho any curiosity or taste, or whtLraTr" '""^"'^-^eTo; possessing these qualities, musTh. u '""' ''' ^«"ghter county, State, Union Ja ^^""^ the affairs of thl week at least! And\hTs isIreT 'f '"'^'^ ^'- -ery -o and a half dollars a year MliT ""' ''"^ « ^^^^^ a vast amount of matter^nftn '•' "'^'^'" «'»h this ;ehff,o„, the movements of r^H "?"' and practical 'ons, the growth of churches the 1?^ "^ '^'''' ^^"«""»a- fact, missionao^, and tempe 'ance sT'"""' '^ '^'^^ BiWe. ^ But to go further into pSar, ''T'^'lf"'' ^'- nations, the effects of the TnL ^ ^^^ P"^''« affair of all y "als, the opinion, of^T;7;2' •°^''>"«''«d indt The people of this countrrexeret k''? ^'^""'^Pheres. jver their fellow.men--n,Lro;h^»," ft'"'' '^^"««r«hip '^- -kly, a, they seat th^lJvtV;!- ^I^i 1 184 B08T0N> y;,' J fc„i ,t tT,« same time a degree of self-respect, papers; «f ^ ^^5 ^ go"d - wi^ mfn, however distant, as well as regara lor gu ,„u„uring in iheir various spheres partly lor tneir gr«» child in the way he should «n» u f ^ *° ^""? "P his 15 160 NABANT. neglect the search after intellectual and moral enjoyments, many such a parent, by bringing his child here, has ex- %, posed him to a scene that can counteract at once the very principles of his education, implant new ideas, lead him to think his parent superficial, and drive him to other sources of instruction. There is an appeal, a warning, a monitory voice in the sea, when its waves are dashed against the rocks, which affects the old and even the accustomed mmd with awe ; but to the young, the inexperienced, it addresses itself with a tone which enforces attention, and makes an impression no human power, perhaps, can ever entirely efface. " Unfall'n, religious, holy sea !" A scene like this is best calculated for the retreat of one •who has forsaken the paths of righteousness, and wishes to retrace his steps. Vice never chooses a place where such reproaches are sounded in her ears. It is also one of the most favourable situations for implanting salutary and last- ing impressions in the young. Scenes like this are, per- haps, liable to as few objections, even when strictly regarded, as any can be, for the establishment of houses of general resort : for as the objects of nature offer a good deal of at- traction, even to the less estimable class of visiters, they substitute reflections harmless, if not useful, for many of the unbecoming games and occupations in which hours are tisually occupied in public places. The man of business is nci attracted to the billiard-table to fill up a blank left by his abstraction from his desk ; but he seats himself on some of the resting-places arranged on the most advantageous points of view, and gazes in admiration on a horizon more extended, on objects more elevating than he finds elsewhere. He indulges in leflections ennobling to a mind borne down with daily cares, while he is refreshed by a pv.re and kindly breeze, that comes with health and rational hilarity on its wings, to repair the wastes that necessary labour has made upon his frame. Of tho sea serpent I have not'ang to say. Plymouth I visited with becoming reverence, on account of the memory of our forefathers. What a dreary scene i t s V tt tc 01 re IT. ctual and moral enjoyments, ging his child here, has ex- counteract at once the very plant new ideas, lead him to J drive him to other sources ppeal, a warning, a monitory ives are dashed against the id even the accustomed mind le inexperienced, it addresses ces attention, and makes an perhaps, can ever entirely t" culated for the retreat of one righteousness, and wishes to chooses a place where such • ears. It is also one of the implanting salutary and last- r. Scenes like this are, per- 5, even when strictly regarded, shment of houses of general lature offer a good deal of at- timable class of visiters, they , if not useful, for many of the ipations in Avhich hours are ces. The man of business is ble to fill up a blank left by but he seats himself on some id on the most advantageous admiration on a horizon more rating than he finds elsewhere, nobling to a mind borne down refreshed by a pv.re and kindly th and rational hilarity on its kat necessary labour has made not'iing to say. ecoming reverence, on account ithers. What a dreary scene THE PILORIMS. w poor, and a ran^e of ow hiil, '"'' " "^'''^y'tWn. and shore, to which no.hnl / ^"'' "" uniformity to the Ignited «.atir:rr;bord^^:l^S;;!--' of the of sands are found thn mart 7 ^'orida, vast tracts fon explicable onlVb; X:J::ZvT'''r '^P"- nature is the country here Th?. . , ' ^"''^- ^^^ '»>« san.l, intermingled Shlno^p ""'^"'''t'ng «"rface of light first effected a 1^1 LdP / °u ^^"'^ »''« ''''S"ms dition says they fir "st'ennl.V'"''^ ^"'^^ °» ^'"''h tra- Theysa^ none'oftretE ^t fir! Te'"' " "f ^™"'^- ease had destroyed all t p !nh\^ ' f"'^ " '^''^^ ^'s- round several ve^.rs befo e Oil Sir '^'" '""' •^"'^"^e in his New-Englaidl p Z^ ^^' '.*^'" ^^«°'' '"^ntions. Plain, a little in t "e intfr ^h S C""'''^ '" '^'^' '''«' «"&ged for the want TlXn? lu ''°™' ''"^^'"^J '^"h busts accustomed to do, t\Le " " ""'' ^^ ^''^^ ^'^ '^^^ r^'^o^s:x::z^^^^^^^^ "'.". - the first settlement of New-EnZ7°tnr "''"'''''" '" *^« scendants. On this snot K^ ? ^l ""^"^ "^^ '^eir de- mediately; at L base ol tt^ 'T'-t''^ themselves im- treaty wiX MassasoT;' b tveen Uand '1'; ''^ '"'"^^ ^''- they erected their fir« dwe I.W , u '''"""^ **" ">« ^^st tf'e village ; between theToft J "^ ^ P^^'^^"' «''««» of bour they used to watrh fo^.J'"^' "" *''! ''^^'^ of the har- from England; northwardly it ""'^""'"^ '"'''^ ^^ '^ip. tablished ; and westward l^T f"" ''"^ "''" '^"'""'^^ «'- show the whole inlenee'^ftt ' '?'^7"'^ ''^ ''^i^'''^^ «» wise institutions ! Xrf we Inl^ ''^"" '^"^ ?"'« «nd 108 PLYMOUTH. not ! They did not dispose of the question as the rf pre- sentatives of Pennsylvania did a few months since, when the bill for common schools in the state was before them. They did not decide that they were tro poor to do it con- veniently, and therefore must postpone it. The Pilgrims were simple enough to believe that " learning is better than house and land," and therefore provided for the establish- ment of a school in every town ot fifty families, and a gram- mar-school in every one of 100 lamilics. Let tliose who think them the poorer, cast up the figures by which it may be shown, and then follow the emigrants from New-England wherever they have gone, and see how they compare wuh those who represent dilVerent doctrines on the intellect. It is true that the Pilgrims enjoyed great advantages for laying the founda^pns of their society along with general education. They came well provided with knowledge, and had little expense to incur at the outset. Family instruc- tion was a powerful aid to schools ; and it is the want of this which renders necessary the array of means now re- quired to make up for deficiencies where it has been neg- lected. Knowledge may be transmitted from generation to generation, in the same manner and almost as cheaply as ignorance ; but what a difference is the conse(iuence ! Sup- pose that the pilgrims had chosen to neglect the means ne- cessary to secure general instruction. Imagine the conse- quences. This country, instead of sending out so much of its population to all seas and regions, because they had superior intelligence, and can pursue the beasts of the forests, the birds of the air, and the fish of the sea, as well as commerce and various other kinds of business, with greater success than other men, would probably have been visited by those of other nations for the same purpose, and ere this have been a much more mixed people. The great atreama of teachers, of all classes, which are now poured out annually to other states of the Union, would never have begun to flow — sad evidence of the literary drought which would have parched the soil, now so fertile in men of edu- cation. If the arts and sciences, pubUc virtue and intelli- gence had ever risen high enough to send out enoigrants to ( ( { r ti V tl; th hf all tei no ih( Wa gai out thr tak out i;th. f the question as the rfpre- I a few months since, when II tlie state was before them, y were to poor to do it con- postpone it. The Pilgrims I that " learning is better than •e provided for the establish- II of fifty families, and a gram- 100 families. Let those who ) the figures by which it may emigrants from New-England d see how they compare with doctrines on the intellect, enjoyed great advantages for jir society along with general provided with knowledge, and I the outset. Family inslruc- chools ; and it is the want of ' the array of means now rc- ncies where it has been neg- transmitted from generation to iner and almost as cheaply as ince is the consequence ! Sup- losen to neglect the means ne- atruction. Imagine the conse- ead of sending out so much of id regions, because they had an pursue the beasts of the ind the fish of the sea, as well other kinds of business, with len, would probably have been ions for the same purpose, and lore mixed people. The great ilasses, which are now poured ii the Union, would never have I of the literary drought which , now so fertile in men of edu- ences, public virtue and intelli- lough to send out emigrants to n FOREIOff TOITRISTJ. 180 ^as^wS^'ISirSl^r""'^'"^ '" "- ""J-^tin.ni-hed which, lunvever s o" ,v e^I'TT 'T ""'"^ 'I""'"-. 'hf«y mcoN arc soon S'^""^ '""' "'«'" »ow when pleasure in. I attr^o filli h.f '"^ iooi,,,,,, or take pretend to know eveJy tS ImT'.'.^ "'^"''"^'' "»""«» t.es possessed by some of those LL ,'" ''""'^^^''"' '"'•'=•"- tlie United State, thmu^h h? n ''f '''""^" ^''''° '"'^ey things of which none oS,„':- '"' ^^'''''' ""'^ '^en writj had more to say How p ea" anl";:. "7 '''T'' ' ""'^h. have gentry! A pefson vi h£?. 1" '"T^^'"^ ^« '<> »"«»» or sleep in the steamCt and ml ' "l'^^' "' '" ^^^ '«««'. at least would never be Sed I, r''^' '^''T ""^'"^''^^^ can never say a thing of any Sc.^ k'' '"''' P'^P'« »« ' everybody who is IZ ] V °' °^J'"''' without having faetr and ct never T3t ''"' ".'"^■'^''"' '"^^at's f plain, merely sensib neJsof Jh"/ 'f'''''"^ ''"' »''« ^^s^ true-very g'ood-he SksTuT'' " "" ^^^' " '^''«''- wh'irysiiir ^it^' V 't' ^''^ -^ -«- things Iround him Zo whaM T'"'''^ *" ^' '"'^ 'hat that they and their nethbo hZ d""" "''", '' ^' ' '"'^ have, and can do so and sn » , "'"' "^^'^tly what they ah! when sharwe equal tL En "."kT "°^ '^^« ^ »"'' terris"_„o,v and the 'we find oSf of h "^'''' '''' ^ not so rare, however now 1 .h '^^'^ ''"'« ^«^1— there are q^ite enoXTthL X"ofT-r « ^'''"^ was at a hotel in New-York som? ?""' ' '""«"««='» gave out that he was eollectl rem. T"""'? '^"' ''^"' ^e out his memorandumCrL „ ' f''"'^tr^'^^y*««k three persons, who apnredaf..? t. ^^^ ^' *^^^^- '^'^o <>' taking, were o obligfnT: t /et'T'''"''' ^'^ '''' ""''«'- - Of respect to J.^ l^^^ ^^^ no MASSACHVSKTTfl. take any thing but the choicrsi bits from that ffroat news- market; and, indeed, generally took the tr.uble to stall- feed the cattle and pi(?con« before they brou^rlu tiiem up. Under their hands our steamboats, race-iorHos, whale-boats, and spinning-wheels improved more in speed than they had done in years before ; and the march of mind in the United States wos etjuallcd only by the progre8s of the pumpkin- vines in the meadows. Had the wonders he heard been communicated to him in a different manner, he miglit have questioned the statements ; but they were introduced casu- ally in common conversation ; not narrated to him as prodi- gies, but mingled with the concerns of the day, and heard by others without surprise, and often without remark. This intelligent foreigner faithfully noted every thing, and must have taken a vast fund of available merchandise home to England. His friends grieved the less at his departure, because they cherished the hope of seeing him ere long in a book. As yet, however, they have been disappointed. Among the various travels in the United States since pub- lished in Great Britain, they have not found his name ; and although several of them have borne strong marks of his character, and were to a great degree composed of materials like those which he collected, they are at once so like and unlike the valuable mass with which he was supplied, that they were inclined to suspect he had sold his notes " in lots to suit purchasers." It is impossible to travel far in this state, and, indeed, in some of the other states also, without perceiving signs of the recent impulses given to public instruction. In some places the old school-houses have been replaced with conve- nient and handsome edifices ; evidently planned with some regard to their importance, the public convenience, and the principles of taste. In others large buildings have been erected for public lectures, libraries, and cabinets of natural history. And if we had time enough tc inquire into the state of public intelligence, we should find considerable im- provements made within the last three or four years. The associationa for literary improvement, which have multiplied BO rapidly, though varying in size, importance, and plan. I I s U ti IJI tic tt ' CO in su tall dis coi to J trai othi disc wot aboi opp< 1 JITT9. I bits from that ffroat news- ly took tlie triublc to slall- )efore they broufflu tliem up. ats, race-'iorsos, whale-boats, more in speed than they had march of mind in the United he progreHS of tlie pumpkin- the wonders he heard been erent manner, he miglit have it they were introduced casu- not narrated to liim as prodi- icerns of the day, and heard d often without remark. This ' noted every thing, and must ailable merchandise liome to ed the less at his departure, lope of seeing him ere long in ihey have been disappointed. 1 the United States since pub- lave not found his name ; and ve borne strong marks of his t degree composed of materials I, they are at once so like and th which he was supplied, that , he had sold his notes " in lots ar in this state, and, indeed, in so, without perceiving signs of public instruction. In some have been replaced with conve- ; evidently planned with some he public convenience, and the ers large buildings have been ibraries, and cabinets of natural me enough tc inquire into the we should And considerable im< 1 last three or four years. The rovement, which have multiplied in size, importance, and plan« tYCEi;,H». ni «^«'*'ortl„.iroprration olL'^^ ' ""'"'^'^''•' *" 't or the °r 'ho M,.oie o.x..nt i„ ;;v;,::x:'r "''"■. ^" ^^^ ^^y^ ^o uuny meetings have been . ^^'•'""'^■•'"ion. '"'« i-rnml and ."o „,arn,earJ 't '" '"""y ''"'« ««'•*«- ;'-to u. value are sure of r "^ S'' "'"' "'«•"*' ^vho appro- 'age yeoum. The bell i rJL L^.'" °"'"' '" '""^ « vi|. probably ,ho minister, the te " |?J "f '"^«'"?-»'ou.se. and We. will. ,nany or few "f fu' ',"'"'" ""'^ '^"'ale, assem- I'oar, yet f;,r enough to sLTT ''''"'"•^^' "ear enough to -;^K-ver they go. Scme'^^o '1..;:'f "^.-'-'- ''.e:: "e«. g.ves a .statement of their 1 ." """'' ■^"'•'' so'-'c- 'nentson t'-e advantages off ,V. "n '■''■'^■'^' ^"^' '=«'"- ^'^; of a similar a.stciation It^" """^'' ^'' '^' '«™a. ^i>at it is expedient ,o Zm a ^V"!""""""''-^ ^^««'^ed, committee is then apnoime ?, r ''"''"" ^J''"'^"'"." a '« perhaps presented 'to £ ame":; '" .^""«'""''«n. which ubseciuent one. On .he a ic LT nrobTh*"^' '' ''" "°'' '° ^ ' k'^'' place; and f can answeXt^^^^^^^^ d^close both talent and eloZ e' ai. f ""'^ '°"'«""'«« concerning the state of society 2,1. 1 ""^' ''"'' ^'"'='' to a stranger. I have wisher! ,i ? ""'"^ P'*°^« instructive travellers who have o^^teh W^?''" «'' ''"^ ^^'^'l-nean i„g f er side of the AtlaS^ "otic 'hf 7 ''^'' "^ "« «" t^f •Jiscussions, even in our mo 1 '"'""^'^ '^ ' ^'^ «"ch 172 MASSAflltrdETT^. " I had no notice, KCMUlnnon," rrmarkrd a mi.l.HcaKrd man from unoll.e. town, ".hat I was to a.l.Ir.Hs .1... nu'Ct- iiiL' I wrtH passing thro.itrli Newtown, and attracted l.r r. only l.y learnini? ai the tavern that a lye.'Uin ^va. to J-e formed. I will mention l.rielly that the lyr.um of Ohltown, of whicli I had the honour to he secretary, han heen very uxe- ful. a>» it is Kenerallv hciieved, in atVordinR harndess anmse- ment as well as useful inslraetion to UilVeretit classes, par- ticularly the youn^r. The funds are derived (rom the sub- scriptions of member., at half a dollar each, and a -luarter of a dollar for minors, who however are not entitled to a vote. The ollicers are a president, vi.-e.|.resident, record- ing and corresponding secretary, treasurer, and lihrarian. who, with five others called curators, form the board ol directors, three of whom make a quorum lor ordinary busi- ness. Wc liave collected a library, by loan and gift, ol books which could be spared by the members of the society ; and thus each volume being made accessible to all, is as it were multiplied by two hundred, which is about the number of our members. One or two lectures on .hnerent subjects are delivered every week in the whiter when the weather permits, by volunteers— professional gentlemen and farmers, Lnd occasionally wc are favoured with some friend from a neighbouring lyceum, with an essay which has been well received there. We send a delegate every quarter to the county lyceum (where your delegates, I hope, will hereafter attend), and hear interesting reports from him of their pro- ceediiigs on his return. Our schools have been much im- nroved, as the teachers are interested in introducing every im- provement in discipline and instruction which they can ob- tain ; and I must do most teachers the justice to say that they are true friends of knowledge and republican mstitutions. And while I am on this point, allow me to renriark, gentle- men, that we have it in our power, though but humble indi- viduals, by pursuing a proper course of operations in the society which exists around us, to effect what the govern- ments of some countries of Europe are endeavouring to do, but cannot fully accomplish, with all the means in their pos- session. We can raise the standard of our common schools o tl tli IJI W al be ou spi als aid for jee fus: in I 1 rRKTTH. n," rpmarkrd a mi«ltllp-aKt'il t I was to iiddrrHs lliit* nu'Ct- Newtown, iiiul attiiictcil lnrt; II ilial ii lyci'Uiii wiiu to lie tlial tlio lycnim of Oldtown, • Herrctary', lian been very vine- in iitVonliiiff harnilrss aiimsr- lion to UllVfrcnt classfH, par- nU am (Icrivfd from llu' sub- If ii dollar eat'li, and a iniartcr owcvrr arc not entitled to a sidcnt, vir'P-|)re8idc!nt, rrcoid- ,ary, trcasiirnr, and librarian, curators, Ibrm the board of ;c a quorum for ordinary busi- library, by loan and gift, of jy the members of the society ; nade accessible to all, is as it ed, which is about the number lectures on difl'ercnt subjects the winter when the weather ssional gentlemen and farmers; jured with some friend from a n essay which has been well delegate every quarter to the Iclegates, I hope, will hereafter reports from him of their pro- ir schools have been much im- lerested in introducing every im- instruction which they can ob- :hers the justice to say that they Ige and republican institutions, n, allow me to remark, gentle- power, though but humble indi- er course of operations in the U3, to effect what the govern- Europe are endeavouring to do, with all the means in their pos- itandard of our common schools lYCE'Twa, 173 I""-' ynr, c.uMi.Uv,\ IZdLZ ';"^""""^"'' ''"r,,,^ ,hc '*«": and ,h,. s,.„, vcek V ^^'"7" '" l"'''l.c .ns.ruc f'-'. published ; ;Vi!r ;'■'•' "" ""'""''y "'"^- tl'"tit,.xpr,..sslvavoH . ' • '^ "'Htruction, ,n/or,„ us education is insclaM; '''•';!' ''"'"■''''"•^' "'"' ^^''^iou* "'•tin, Mate rel, K^"" '"!' 'iV'"' = """ the n.t.Lts «l'o Prorc.s.io„\w Vt ,!7' ' ^" '"^'""•""Ji "nd .ha, rnidcred rcspec alio ' ' '" "^'.'.'•y '''T"^""^"'. mn.st be "«>w be «,,t;,„,., f..^ ' ; /'^•^' «>'«";"« '" Europe n.ay done but toedin-ar . ,K '' "'"' "«'h,nff remain. ,„ be emula,.„n an,o„; 1';;,^;: "'«"*?''' ^'^ '« --i'e proper " Make tlio rcsnliM r,f -, i awakeninteres.hli^. ;'"'-■"''«" '">«^v„. and you will «y«tc.ns than the; I ve ^J hl^^T."''"."'' """^''^^ ''«'tter raise the salaries T/eT ^ ""'""■'''' '° "'^'''"' «''««" : «Pe.-t,andyoumayhae.tT' ''"'";'"''" ^^"'^ ''»« "- of their practical kLw, j^w ,rn:'-| •^" '"""^ P"'"'"* '"^n exhibition ol- apparaturofbv i . ''"'^™""''y ^^'^ '»"o of a model.,.la s foTa hllf^h ""'^^ '^'' -nanagen.ent the meetings of com„,o„ s .f. TJ' ,^"''°"^"Se' 'herefore. »''e county, /br thuTstm ''."'''"' '" '''« 'o^m and iibrary,th^^nforma ;„;■ V'hT """ '". "''' '^"^'^ "^ »'- We must remen.ber that ou; h'T'f "'^ P^«Per'yolal|. alone by the good and tL In • °"'f '^'"'.''^ '''''' ^^ l^*^ been placed on the be t Z T,' "'"'' '^''y '^''^^ ^ave ought \o be retained prm\Ev r""^' . ^"^ '"^^ers «pectcd H. hifihly as SnJ n ' ^ ^ ^"" P^'^^'^ion, and re- al«o to be puliLlsZZ'o^"'' "''°^'^'>'- '^'*»^y«"?ht aid which ^s know? rthe L7l?'T"''™'^"''■"''''- foreignnationsi8nevernlade nb " '^""""'^'■'^e with jeets so long as we do not bv 1 "!' '" "' '"^^^«' *>''- iusion of usfful knowled/e . and nt.l. /' T ™"''' "" '^*^- •nhand with religious Aml^ i, u"'"'""' ""'' S° h""'! eugious. And mark the tendency of frequeut w 174 ROVTE TO PROVIDENCE. association! It is only the extension of that principle on which true friends receive mutual benefit from conversing on a topic with which they are partially acquainted. They share the whole stock with each other, and at the same time are stimulated to obtain and communicate more in future." By such remarks as these the individuals present feel encouraged to further the good objects by such means as are in their power. The stranger departs, but some one or more he leaves l»ehind are prepared to act on a committee to procure lectures for the winter, or to solicit the loan of books, to visit the schools, to collect minerals, to make a map of the town, to correspond with some other society, to collect historical facts of tlie region in which he dwells, or to raise funds to procure a philosophical apparatus, or possi- bly to erect a building for the society. The meeting has convinced some individual at least that he could do more than he before believed ; and more than one are no-v started on a career in which the example and support of others, with success in new exertions, will probably display to themselves powers of mind and means of usefulness, as well as of enjoyment, of which they have before been quite un- suspicious. In a country like this> where such a state of society has been established, great advantages are enjoyed by parents in rearing their children. And of this many of our emigrants appear sensible; for some of them send their little orss from the South to be educated among the scenes and moral influences of their infancy. No higher expres- sion of attachment and veneration can be paid to their na- tive Ian \ than thi», by such men as have done what they could, to improve the intelligence and morality of the regions where they dwell. Education is a staple commodity cf Massachusetts and Connecticut, and more or less so of some of the other northern states. A child here is as sure of good examples, and good intellectual and moral instruction, as he would be of having rice enough in South Carolina, sugar-cane in Louisiana, or Indian corn in Ohio. The route from Boston to New- York, through Providence, is interesting on several accounts, but is well known ; and ri V x. 'BOVIDENCE. jxtension of that principle on lutual benefit from conversing re partially acquainted. They ch other, and at the same time communicate more in future." e the individuals present feel ood objects by such means as inger departs, but some one or spared to act on a committee to Iter, or to solicit the loan of 3 collect minerals, to make a nd with some other society, to ! region in which he dwells, or lilosophical apparatus, or possi- le society. The meeting has least that he could do more 1 more than one are no'v started cample and support of others, ions, will probably display to ind means of usefulness, as well hey have before been quite un- vhere such a state of society t advantages are enjoyed by Iren. And of this many of our for some of them send their ) be educated among the scenes !ir infancy. No higher expres- eration can be paid to their na- men as have done what they ence and morality of the regions tion is a staple commodity of cut, and more or less so of some !. A child here is as sure of itellectual and moral instruction, rice enough in South Carolina, Indian corn in Ohio. • New- York, through Providence, :counts, but is well known ; and TRATBLLXRS. 175 besides, if I should stop to speak of it, I should not find time to complete the remaining part of my tour. It is a dreadful thmg for a writer to have more materials than he can use ; an evil, fortunately, not very common at the pres- cnt day ; lor if we may judge authors by their books, they generally want nothing more than something to say. How- ever, it is my chance this time to suffer under a surfeit. CHAPTER XXIII. Ncw.York— Hotels— Sculpture— South America— Dr. Sweet- Foreign Invention*. Nothing is more remarkable than the rapid multiplica- tion and extension of hotels in New- York within a few years. About six or eight years ago there was none ex- cept the City Hotel, which was considered as affording very extensive, and at the same time genteel accommodaiions; Bunker's, Washington Hall, and Park Place House being on a less extensive scale. The American Hotel was not opened without some anticipations among idle re- markers that the city would not support it ; and yet M'e ir.\"''T *lf ^^t'«na'. the Adelphi, the United States, Webb s, the Franklin, and, without mentioning many others m different streets, lastly, the moose, the mammoth. Holt's. What scenes of bustle are presented at the doors in the travelling-season, especially at the hours of steamboats ar- nvmg and dr-parting, which now occur with but short inter- missions! How roll the coaches to and from; how the porters jostle you and one another ; how the strangers pour «p or down the side-walks, with their great coats on their arms, or pack their wives and chUdren hastily into coaches, riow you can instantly distinguish these birds of passage as they stop at the corner before you, and survey the houses above them from top to bottom, and then ^aze at the crowd 1^ NEW-YORK. nishing by ihem, as if hunting for a needle in a hay-mow; What a difference it must make with them in respect to the pleasure of their journey, and the information they may carry home, whether they find a bed to lodge in or not ; and whether comfortable things befall them or otherwise. As we pass them in the street, it seems but a matter of little concern whether they are lodged here, or there, or nowhere ; whether they are treated honestly or have their pockets picked. But it is much to them. O this familiarity with crowds and bustle, this packing down of human flesh m cities like jerked beef, makes us in some respects wonder- fully selfish and indifferent to our species. Speaking of hotels— Holt's is the mammoth of them all. Seeking a friend one day, a gentleman traced him to Holt s, inquired for him at the bar, and was told that although not in his room, he was somewhere in the house. " Fhat was what I was afraid of," said he—" I shall never find him. If he had gone out I would have given him a fair chase through the city, with some small hope of finding him : but in such a boundless labyrinth as this I will not waste time in searching for him." , v • This hotel is sometimes called Holt's castle ; but it is rather the castle of indolence, or more properly that of glut- tony. " The refectory," " hot coffee," " the ordinary," " pri- vate dining-room," &c. &c., these are conspicuous words blazoned on the doors and along the passages. Labourers, horses and carts are often seen lining the curb-stones, toil- ing and groaning even in removing the refuse and fragments of those enormous feasts which are daily consumed in this surfeit factory. A steam-engine puffs and perspires all day to raise aloft tons of food, merely for hundreds of trencher- men to bring it down again ; and, to judge from the smoke and hissing, one would think the inroads of hunger were moro difficult to resist than the current of the Hudson or the Mississippi. r rr « « This pile of granite is in one sense a temple ol " i aste; —and what species of taste that is, the spectator may judge from any commanding view within some miles, by the broad banner that floats on its top, bearing an enormous green ■YORK. ing for a needle in a hay-mow; ake with them in respect to the ind the information they may d a bed to lodge in or not ; and befall them or otherwise. As it seems but a matter of little Iged here, or there, or nowhere ; lonestly or have their pockets Ihem. O this familiarity with jking down of human flesh in 38 us in some respects wonder- to our species. It's is the mammoth of them all. gentleman traced him to Holt's, ar, and was told that although mewhere in the house. " That laid he — " I shall never find him. d have given him a fair chase 3 small hope of finding him : but ith as this I will not waste time 3 called Holt's castle; but it is ce, or more properly that of glut- hot coffee," " the ordinary," "pri- c, these are conspicuous words along the passages. Labourers, seen lining the curb-stones, toil- emoving the refuse and fragments which are daily consumed in this jngine puffs and perspires all day merely for hundreds of trencher- in ; and, to judge from the smoke hink the inroads of hunger were a the current of the Hudson or the n one sense a temple of " Taste;" te that is, the spectator may judge w within some miles, by the broad top, bearing an enormous green SCirLPTURE AS AN AMUSEMENT. 177 turtle ! The sight of such an ensign is not a very gratify, mg one to a man of letters, unless indeed he be suffering under a paroxysm of hunger, to which his tribe arc said to be rather predisposed. Under other circumstances, he ex- claims, O that my countrymen would content themselves with moderation in their animal enjoyments, and sacrifice more to the nund ! If this bar were converted into a library ; if tomes of knowledge were put in the place of bottles and de- canters, and tlie halls were furnished with food for the in- tellect, what a splendid university would this be ! I have been visiting some of the artists and exhibition- rooms ; and having already indulged in a few remarks on pamtmgs and painters, I might apply some of the same views to sculpture ; but shall not stop here to be very par- ticular. I would briefly remark, that taste or genius, as it 13 called m sculpture, need not be of so gradual growth in our country as many persons think. Many of our travellers abroad will tell you, that an hour spent in the museum of Florence, or in the select society of Apollo and Co., in the palace of the Vatican, would be sufficient to convert the most rude taste to something very refined and intelligent ; and as for genius, did not Canova grow up in a few years ; and was not his life more than long enough to revolu- tionize the world of artists ? Even in the most refined countries, every new generation must be educated to refine- ment. We have, therefore, only to use the proper means, and in a very short time might have taste and genius, and the results of both combined. It is a slavish doctrine too, that no artist can be worthy of respect who has not worked in Rome. Let not our youth be discouraged. Take a chisel, i ik at a man, and make the rock look as much like him as you can. But the rock IS hard. Then take plaster, or common red clay from a brick-yard. It will wash off from the hands of genius— Canova used it often. Set about gravely to do what you have attempted when a boy with the snow. Try to make a man— it is not so puerile a business, neither is it so very difficult. You are not to be perplexed with colours, lights and shades, or in any way required to make a flat surface 16 178 NEW-YORK< look like what it is not. You may measure every part, turn it this way and that by moving the b'ock on which it stands, and alter, remould, and begin again. Nothing is spent but a little leisure time, a little at mention and ingenuuy, for which you will be more attentive and ingenious here- after, and a better judge of other people's work. The clay is as good as it was before, and you are not obliged to show your work or to try again. You are already like an artist in one respect ; you have failed in your first attempt to do as well as you wished. Even if you had tried to chisel a stone and broken it, your tool, or your skin, I dare say Canova and Thorwaldson themselves have done worse. There have been fewer good sculptors than good painters ; but sculpture is a much more natural and simple art than painting. It has its peculiar principles, and in certain de- tails there are more niceties ; but in general this is not the case. For example — there must be caution used to guard against any unmeaning, incorrect, or ridiculous effect in every point of view from which a statue or group is to be seen : while a picture has but one side. But how natural is the attempt to mould a material mass into the form of humanity ; and how much better do even children succeed in making images of snow than in drawing men with coal or chalk ! And how much more readily do the uninstructed express their opinions of statues than of paintings, because they feel better competent to judge ! I need but remark in addition, how Mr. Augur has astonished us all with his " Jephtha and his daughter," because he had independence enough to act on these principles, and with extraordinary taste°and perseverance. (How strangely I forgot to speak of Augur with praise while at New-Haven !) And how has the Scotch stone-cutter, Thom, with the coarsest stone, and in spite of his degraded subject, viz. a low ale-house group, imitated nature almost to perfection, without the benefit of instruction or a single model. I have said a good deal about taste, perhaps, to very little purpose, yet I must express my displeasure for that shown by many of my countrymen in several recent instances. While works of real merit, reconunended by patriotic, or at I'ou may measure every part, noving the b'ock on which it and begin again. Nothing is a little attention and ingenuity, ! attentive and ingenious here- ther people's work. The clay d you are not obliged to show You are already like an artist led in your first attempt to do ;n if you had tried to chisel a tool, or your skin, I dare say emselves have done worse, (d sculptors than good painters ; e natural and simple art than • principles, and in certain de- ; but in general this is not the must be caution used to guard jorrect, or ridiculous effect in ich a statue or group is to be )ut one side. But how natural laterial mass into the form of tter do even children succeed in n in drawing men with coal or ore readily do the uninstructed itues than of paintings, because J judge ! I need but remark in as astonished us all with his " because he had independence inciples, and with extraordinary low strangely I forgot to speak at New-Haven !) And how has )m, with the coarsest stone, and ject, viz. a low ale-house group, lerfection, without the benefit of il. bout taste, perhaps, to very little my displeasure for that shown en in several recent instances, reconunended by patriotic, or at FALSE TASTE AND IMMORALITY. 179 least respectable historical associations are offered for exhibition almost in vain; while artists of extraordinary talent, puie character, and commendable intentions are shut up m humble corners by public neglect, we can rush in crowds to see a poor and meager composition, whose merits are merely of an mferior order, and whose tendency is of a decidedly corrupting character. I speak of the - great im- moral painting" of Adam and Eve in Paradise. This picture has indeed a scripture subject, but that is its only merit, ex- cept the mere mechanical execution of the figures. The composition has not tiie essential quality of a just conception of the scene portrayed. There is no Eden, unless a few coZ'ir •^ ^''f,^^"^ •"=»>' ^^P'-e^s it; and no one could ever judge of the artist's intention or his subject, if the serpent and the apple were withdrawn. On the con- trary, every thmg else, except the nudity of the pereonages, would lead to a very opposite idea. And as to the intel- lectnal character of the piece, how mean, as well as how detestable, appears the character of the mind expressed in this paiming! Such an artist would make the Eden of purity a mere Mohammedan paradise. Nature is repre- sented as destitute of beauty; and man, in his state of per- fection, as devoid of every exalted and ennobling sentiment l-rom woman, every intellectual trait seems to be removed • and how uisufferable is this, in such a scene, where the' acquisition of knowledge was the grout instrument of tempta- tion,_the object to which she had yielded, and which she used as the ground of her argument with Adam ! For my own part, this u.iserable failure of a foreign artist will ever be doubly displeasing to me, because it has been so extensively rendered popular by tiie notice of men who ui my opimon, ought to have possessed more taste and dis- cernment. Because it was a scripture painting, fathers and mothers, laymen and clergymen, crowded to see it, indifferent or un- suspicious with regard to the impression which their example wouid have on virtuous and blushing youth, and on immoral and debased membera of society, who rejoice when evil eentiraenls are allowed to walk in the sunshine. 1 If 180 NEW-YORK. ■ Encouraged, I suppose, by the golden success of the pro- prietor of this painting, Hughes, a man o." extraordinary talent as a sculptor, has produced a far more decent, yei a mean subject, which addresses itself tc a somewhat simdar taste. His skill ought to be bestowed in a more worthy manner before it receives general applause. The arts arr infernal demons when allied with immorality or even with debased sentiments. While we are crowding to Europe, or sending our children thither, to run through the great travelled routes, to see sights and learn to talk of things because they have been visited and talked of before, but generally with very little conception of why or wherefore, our country is an object of well-defined interest to many intelligent foreigners. I have fallen in with several gentlemen of eaucation irom South America, who are looking upon our society with par- ticular curiosity. Our southern brethren, in their zeal to learn the art of conducting a country upon our principles, chide our indifference ; and in the preference many of them show for subjects substantially important, might make us ashamed of our blind admiration for the splendid tinsel of Europe. While we are reading of feudal castles, or recall- ing with misplaced enthusiasm our visits to foreign capi- tals or courts, they are asking admission into our printing- offices, or observing the apparatus and exercises of our col- leges and schools. They are attracted by these things, be- cause they are in search of means to effect a definite object, and one on which the prosperity and indeed the existence of their country depends. "The apparatus with which the governments of European countries are carried on is too expensive for them— it is entirely out of the question, both because it is too dear and because it is not at all appro- priate to their condition or designs. In looking over the Old World, therefore, they see, as we ought, that there is nothing appropriate to their use except certain scattered in- stitutions, or methods here and there, and these generally not the gaudy machinery, sustained with treasures, exhibited with pomp, and disguised with forms. What is worth knowmg in Europe is generally that which it is not difficult to learn; )RK. he golden success of the pro- les, a man of extraordinary ced a far more decent, yet a itself tc a somewhat similar bestowed in a more worthy eral applause. The arts arc [vith immorality or even with urope, or sending our children ;reat travelled routes, to see lings because they have been but generally with very little 'ore, our country is an object any intelligent foreigners. I gentlemen of eaucation from ing upon our society with par- em brethren, in their zeal to \ country upon our principles, n the preference many of them lly important, might make us ■ation for the splendid tinsel of ing of feudal castles, or recall- im our visits to foreign capi- g admission into our printing- ratus and exercises of our eol- e attracted by these things, be- eans to effect a definite object, erity and indeed the existence 'he apparatus with which the iountries are carried on is too tirely out of the question, both because it is not at all appro- designs. In looking over the see, as we ought, that there is use except certain scattered in- id there, and these generally not ed with treasures, exhibited with irms. What is worth knowing which it is not difficult to learn; 80BTH AMKRICAN8. 181 What we should look upon, few eyes are likely to discover, i he {south Americans have contested the point for liberty and independence for twenty years or more with prriudice Jgnoran.re, and immorality; and many of their statesmen! as well as other virtuous citizens, have been forced to the conviction tliat they must by some means instruct their countrymen and render them virtuous, or their past labours and trials will be unavailing. Let Europe be at peace, and permit only the concurrence of such circumstances as mav be imagined, and fleets and armies will cross the Atlantic to recover those immeasurable and splendid regions to the dommion of despotism. Men who have sacrificed fortune, endured wounds, imprisonment, and exile, the loss of friends and families for the benefit of their country, are ready to part with all that remains rather than be ultimately defeated of their objects. When therefore they see by that means so simple and economical as the propagation of knowledge, the encouragement of virtue and industry, their point may be gamed, they look upon the steps by which this may be effected with an interest which might excite some of our talking but inactive friends of education and public industry and arouse them from that lethargy which so extensively prevails m the United States. Some of these South Americans having visited several of our institutions, celebrations, public, and Sunday-schools : io think, remarked one of them, "that one-third of the capital of my country is invested in the convents ! How much more truly great are such monuments as your public school-houses than any of the edifices of Europe !" While seated in the teacher's desk, after a silence, he exclaimed; 11 1 could learn the art of instruction here, I should desire no higher honour than to devote the remainder of my days to teachin,rr the poor." This gentleman has since been called to the presidency of Mexico by acclamation, restored peace m the midst of civil war, held that office for a few months, and retired to private life. "What have we here?" said another, as he entered an mlant-school, while the pupils were marching to drafts—" a mUitary parade commanded by women? This is the way 16* ' I 182 NEW-YORK. to lay the foundation of a good state. I have no liigher pleasure," he added, " than to visit your schools and col- leges.'* He is now displaying at home his devotion to learn- ing in all its branches, under the most favourable rircum- ■tances, viz. as president of the republic of New (irenada. One of his most enlightened countrymen and personal friends, in his first visit to a Sabbath-school, found the in- fant class singing a well-known juvenile hymn ; and as he understood the English language, said, with much feel- ing, " Truly the children of the United States are taught to repeat sentiments before they can understand them, while other nations might well make any sacrifice if they might with truth apply them to themselves : — •My God, I thank thee, thou hast plann'd A better lut tor me ; AnJ placM me in this Christian land, Where I may hear of Thee.' " I am fully convinced," said he, " that sincere, active benevolence alone is true greatness. Serving God, loving all mankind as brothers, and teaching them to exercise the same feelings towards each other — these are the only ob- jects worth living for. The principles of the Gospel of Jesus Christ are the only principles on which wc can de- pend for private or public happiness. Honour, pride, and power they are trilles, mere trifles." The sweet harmony of about an hundred and fifty children at an infant-school one day made his eyes glisten ; and he remarked, " How affecting it is to reflect, that ' Except ye repent, and become as little children, ye shall in no case enter the kingdom of heaven.'" This gentleman, the father of an interesting little family, six or seven hundred miles in the interior of Colombia, of which republic he was the last president, re- turned thither about a twelvemonth since, prepared to de- vote himself to the active promotion of education in all its branches, among all classes, the Indians and negroes in- cluded ; but has been elected to the vice-presidency of New Grenada, and compelled to accept of that station, in spite of two refusals. "J Ifyc mad you' ' terda Work couni a-pur ORK. 10(1 State. I have no liigher ) visit your schools and col- at home his devotion to learn- the most favourable rircum- lie republic of New (irenada. ned countrymen and personal Sabbath-school, found the in- ivn juvenile hymn ; and as he ^uage, said, with much feel- iie United States are taught to y can understand them, while ie any sacrifice if they might iselves : — c, thou hast plann'd i B Christian land, of Thee.' said he, "that sincere, active eatncss. Serving God, loving teaching them to exercise the )lher — these are the only ob- e principles of the Gospel of rinciples on which wc can de- lappiness. Honour, pride, and J trifles." The sweet harmony ;y children at an infant-school ten ; and he remarked, " How ' Except ye repent, and become I no case enter the kingdom of , the father of an interesting lundred miles in the interior of he was the last president, re- vemonth since, prepared to de- omotion of education in all its 3, the Indians and negroes in- 1 to the vice-presidency of New accept of that station, in bpite «E«VEs', p.TKKT roiorns. ,^,3 -:i;;^^T:::^X?---''onedtosW,,,^ oronrSo,ahA„.orican : ,2 ;t'r^'' '« "'" P'"ffresa kinds ; und to call to min.l h? ""P'^ovcn.onts of various f institutions and ^ ^ LnVre':'""!'/ "';'' "''" '^^^^^ 'crests .),e hope, an.l fea of hesc fi:^ ^ ''^''''''^'''^ "'^ *" New World ; and it is daily hpir '"'' P°'''""« «f Ihc 'lu'y to seek to strength 7ratJ or ,r """"? ''"P^'-'«"«'y our «"a''hme„ts, which, ^Jc . ' ' "" '" ^^'"^^ °'"- '"««"al narrow, should be as ide .1. "' 1 ''"'•'•'"' though devoted friends of kno J 0X0 'i\l''" ^»'^-- «'her admirers and willing pupils n'hr/ *'"' enthusiastic but Pcdraza, «an.afd/r ^nVfi'^''^^''^' "^^ "-".ioned; amples in which noble senUmrml ^ ' "^ ^'^'^n as exi •ntelligent observations madet 2'""^ ^""""^ "«' «nd made to produce speedy and Ih , ''''"""^' ^^^e been regions to which therht^urtr" '™'^ ^" '^'« -t to wp t: r t^TrXTr- ™- - -p- provements in any of ,l,e art« h ^"'^ useful im. There i« a prying^^pi^ 'jj^ 'Tvfn'"'"^. ""^' ""---• possesses every ThiL thnT " n ' f "^'^ "»' "st till it ^0 to the ends'of tlfe ZITS^'^TF- ''^" -" faejiuate, or perfect their labours tjhf' '"ay lighten, feel interested, since comnethinn "'^''"" •^'"^^^ 'hey n>ade knowledge and skiraSb in^the"""'!!""""^ ^^« All the encomiums that n u ""^ market. American curiosity and per everan 'e TT"^' ''"^^^^'•' o" jame ';velyin.pressions'f its^a e a'a 1""' ^'^■•' '""^ ^^e I heard between a poor man ZTZnul ' '"'^'"''''^'^ -a e Now these are' as ZkRelXZ '"" ''">• ='- 3 ou ve got ,„ your case yonder tho, 'h r ^T' ""' '''em ^ erday niyself. You don^ bel ve If / T'^' '^'"^ ^es- worked for Keeves in London Tpn, 5 J'"'"' ''"' ^'ve country how to make such fine pain- '''f '"'' ""' '" 'hi* ^•p-pose to ... I ..^, :^:^;itz:^;^^ 181 NEW-YORK. supply this country, tho demand has got to bo no ^rcat now. Well, tlicy let me ro into the sliop— the> thought 1 diiln't know nothing, and perhaps I didn't sueh a terrilile deal. However, I know'd so much as tiiis— 1 got ao pretty soon that I could make the patent colours as well as anybody. But I wasn't quite ready to come oil' yet, mind you. There was tlie camel's hair-pencils ; nobody knew how to make them in the United States— and I thought I might as well larn that tue while my hand was in. Well, I left Mr. Reeves's, and got in a pencil-shop ; and the tirst thmg I found out was, that they are made of nothing in the world but squirrels' tails." Here was an exclamation of surprise and doubt. "If they an't," continued the narrator, perfectly una- bashed, " I hope I may never stir out of my tracks. I tell you they're squirrels' tails, brought from America ; and if they can manufacture them cheap, sartingly we ought to undersell 'em. But then there's the putting the hairs to- gether all exactly right, and getting them through the little end of a chicken's quill, and there gluing them fast. That's the rub — not exactly that either— but there's the sticking- place. I guess I worked long enough at that to find out how it was done, and then had to be told and look too be- fore I could larn ; and law, it's easy enough." "Well, how is it?" " Ah !" replied the artisan, with a shrewd, penetrating, and ironical look — " that's tellin'." •YORK. nd has got to bo no ^rcat now. c shop — the) thought 1 iliiln't I (liihi't such a terrilile deal. 1 as tliis — 1 got so pretty soon , colours as well as anybody, cine olV yet, mind you. There % ; nobody knew how to make -and I thought I might as well nd was in. Well, I left Mr. cil-shop ; and the first thing I made of nothing in the world of surprise and doubt. , the narrator, perfectly una- r stir out of my tracks. I tell brought from America ; and if cheap, sartingly we ought to ere's the putting the hairs to- getting them through the little there gluing them fast. That's ther — but there's the stick ing- ng enough at that to find out lad to be tcld and look too be< it's easy enough." 1, with a shrewd, penetrating, lUin'." 185 CHAPTER XXrv. ^-Cor„„or.eW.,,_Heeo,.e,o„.on.eCHoK... ••o^"'ry more thnn two ylr, inT: T'' V'"' ''™""f" '" ""« ;^ll./ro,„ a group of iKs ' / ' ^.^'«P'"'" -^""'es Mor- I^aoWic Ocean, duL.a;^";;'!,^'^ " '"'"•''^'"^" '" ^''« Ml'H.avehHd before £;f2%»^«'ot''o«o seas. The ;°"^ .i"? upon fhose iS%;j "'^■^"••"■^«' """ ''"^«y '« '^Inin.s ,0 bo the di coverer 't " ''^'"'^ °^ ^^''"•■'' ''.""•e hy Captain MonTlI'.r ^ T" ^^'^^ ''^«"ff'" «'n-e of the ronswmpt o„ 'in ul A^"°v t'' '"''"'' "«>"'h« was of a diflernn L^'l to^7 ''^ ^''^^-^- He passionate and ,Ii8obli.L^nev,T^ "•« survivor, and very °"r principal cities, and 1 .J^ '"' r'"^'"^'' '" «omo of pose,! to be natives of/he Mas.''" °'''"/"«n««"«Iy s"p- owards these poor savajs Vn ""''"; "'^ '"'" '"""■^"'tX '"H'gonce, n>.odesty, and philan h '''"^^''"'''' ^^'''' '''« Un- covered in him after a sli.h'^^''°P"' «''"t"nents I dis. ;;"i'y/o spend sortittithr'mr- 1 ""' •^" "^^- ^vho lives in his family. Hn L „f '"•^" ^'"'*''' "lentioned, perfectly African, with larsre Lif ?'"^^ *"'""''''' «'«"««' "o^e (a little flattened), bufi ' iJn'^r ^'''^'.'^"'•'^^' ^air. small «'oop at the shoulders HlV. T T'^' ^^^ptin^ a slight and his countenan Thas^n e.t"'"'''^'''"''«'^"k'""'«»o, "" acquaintance wkh ,m dno?7' '"" '^'^ ^'""^^t-V, mingled -^-^-„ess.whi^.--jssrij:i:^^ I 180 Nbw-vork; hut Utile instruction ; hut from this circumstiHico I was the* bplier al)li! to lorm an opinion of the mind of a lieaiiicn and ■A barbarian. I have hisurc at present to say l)ut very liilh' in regard to a man of whom, durinjr repeated interviews, I obtained materials enougii to entertain a lover of noveltitH for some liours. Daco (pronounced Dahco) was son of a chief of his na- tive ishind, whicli is one of a small, but populous group, within six degrees of the equator, and near longitude 115 west. His native island, Uniapa (or Ooneeahpah), has three prominent moimtains, with some rough ground near the sea, where was Daeo's rcsidcnec, among a number ot people whom he commanded. His father's pcopli! dwelt on the side of one of the mountains, his mother's in another place, A-e. &c., there being a number of petty princes on each of the inhabited islands. War, he represents, is never carried on between different islands, but only between tribes of the same island ; and then wounds are much more fre- quent than deaths. The land is ciuelly covered with forests; and he gave me names for fifty or sixty of our trees, shrubs, (lowers, &c., some of which we have no purely English names for. The men go without any clothes at all : the women wear a single garment : the climate being extremely hot. They budd houses after a model which I have ; bury their dead in them ; purchase wives with several articles which pass as money; practise polygamy; and some super- stitious ceremonies to cure diseases, obtain favourable winds, rain, &.c., but have no idolatry. They acknowledge one Supreme Being, tlie creator, rewarder of the good and pun- isher of the bad, invisible, &c. They have traces of a revelation, considering a particular Jewish rite which they practice as commanded by God to make men better ; and their art of curing diseases and producing rain is also derived from him. Pango is the only inferior deity he informed me of. He presides over an inferior world, where every thing is delightful, and whither the good go after death. They are, however, invisible to each other, and can communicate only by the sounds of their voices. There is plenty of plants, flowers, animals, and objects agreeable to the sight : }Rk; ihis fircumstiHico I was llio nC the mind of a lieailicii and preseiil to say l)ut very liulo diirinjf repeated interviews, I entertain a lover ol' noveltien vas son of u chief of his na- 1 small, but populous group, lalor, and near longitude 115 liapa (or Ooueeahpali), ha« ilh some rough ground near sidcnec, among a number of . His father's peopli; dwelt itains, his mother's in another I number of petty prineea on War, he represents, is never lands, but only between tribes I wounds are much more fre- is oiiielly covered with forests; y or sixty of our trees, slirubs, we have no purely English ihout any clotlies at all : tlic : the climate being extremely r a model which I have ; bury 3 wives with several articles ie polygamy ; and some super- cases, obtain favourable winds, itry. They acknowledge one rewarder of the good and pun- &c. They have traces of a ticular Jewish rite which they iod to make men better ; and d producing rain is also derived r inferior deity he informed nie erior world, where every thing good go after death. They ;h other, and can communicate r voices. There is plenty of objects agreeable to the sight : if li F V P; <>, %'%0. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 !ri- IIM I.I 1^ 1^ ill 2.2 Ir I4£ mil 2.0 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 « 6" ► % ? Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 145G0 (716) 872-4503 % '•M. \^r9 \ '■ CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques BACO, THK 14VA0E taLANDClI. ' Jgj but lh.y are M „hi.e. The en.™„ce lo .hi, w„,U i. ly be At„1,'"° """• *• — "« •" W. deecSoS; supposed to be spirits. That invisible worid ttheTa.rdof mus,c : Pango having given the people of the i ands fie or na^ewUhthatofthrSl^iSV ru~^^^^^^^^^^ s^mdantyof some of his words with those ofle' GeJi and "ng rn^oTToT' " "''", " '=^"^'" Peeuliarit^rfn e tongue not to be expected ,n one belonging to such a othin^t^tnTvrgeTar.ljt^ 'T '"' '-'-' and other valuable fruks Th "j? I 7 'P^'''' '^«'^««""'s. habitants (at the command of Pan,T« «,v,„ ■■"ly oj us in- poeuy or rhythm, fhey have various airs, generallv of i p^ .nt,ve cast but with greater compass and vfrie^TK^^ than are found m most other sarage nations. The hnguage 188 NEW-YORK. is smooth and melodious, having no sound which we cannot easily make, unless it be an occasional guttural g. Ihey interchange some of the consonant sounds, but generally not the same as the Sandwich and oiliei islanders, whose lan- guages I have examined. The tongue has a considerable resemblance to those of some of the Polynesian Islands m structure, and a distant one in words ; but it is more agree- able, harmonious, and manly. A "nursery sonu, begin- ning Eoa, eao, lahi labi titm na potu, &c., has a very sweet air, and contains several kind epithets addressed to the child, promising that its head shall be ornamented with a feather of the labt or parrot if it will cease crymg. A swimming song and a canoe song, which also I wrote down, are mellifluous and appropriate to their sut)jects. Daco has a disposition of the most Irank, simple, and amiable description. He admires much what he sees, and says that there are many very good men among us ; am thouoh he is impatient to revisit his own land, says he will » come back to 'Merriki/ hie" (America island), and brmg one of his brothers with him. He was pleased with a proposition to teach his people what would be useful to tliem ; and if instructed, or accompanied by some judicious philanthropist on his return, would no doubt render them material service. I visited a school with him, and he took a deep interest in some simple religious instruction which the children received in his presence, as he has a little knov'dedge of our language. He promised on his arrival at his island to collect the children every Sabbath, and teacii them in like manner. , ■ , r r • i It strikes a person strangely to feel such a kind ol Inena- ship towards an ignorant savage as I ai-quired for Daco ; but one's attachment for such an individual may be as sincere, and productive of more real gralitication, than we sometimes find among the children of arf, the sons of luxury and vice around us ; and I have the pleasure of thinking that my feelings were reciprocated, which is more gratifying than a whole volume of false professions of friendship. Some parts of the city awakened in me recollections ot i^ r-YORK. iving no sound which we cannot m occasional guttural g. They isonant sounds, but generally not and oiliei islanders, whose lan- The tongue has a considerable me of the Polynesian Islands in in words ; but it is more agree- iily. A " nursery sonij," begin- <, na potu, &c., has a very sweet kind epithets addressed to the lead shall be ornamented with a ■rot if it will cease crying. A le song, which also I wrote down, riaie to their 8ut)jects. of the most frank, simple, and admires nmch what he sees, and very good men among us ; and evisit his own land, says he will hie" (America island), and bring him. He was pleased with a people what would be useful to ir accompanied by some judicious iru, would no doubt render them d a school with him, and he took simple religious instruction which his presence, as he has a little ;e. He promised on his arrival at :hildren every Sabbath, and teach ngely to feel such a kind of friend- t savage as I acquired for Daco ; r such an iudividual may be as >f more real gratification, than we i children of art, the sons of luxury I I have the pleasure of thinking iprocated, which is more gratifying 'alse professions of friendship. ;y awakened in me recollections of RECOLLECTIONS OF THE CHOLERA. 180 the season of 1832, and the cholera in New- York. I spent several weeks there at that time, and may be excused for expressing a few of the feelings then excited. l-'or niyseif, I had found it difficult to realize, that the busy and apparently g„y crouds in the streets might be soberr .,nd saddened in an hour by the appearance of the (lisea. , and scattered towards all points of the compass by Its rava.,os. Indeed, I liad found it hard to persuade myself that I v.as soon to know it by dreadful experience or obser- vation. And when it was confidently reported to have ap- peared, flattered myself that it would have been modified by the climate ; and anxiously inquired whether it had that dreadful blue complexion, those irresistible spasms and rack- ing pains, accompanied with an undisturbed mind. And when I found that the same monster was among us. which I had so long regarded as fabulous in India, and that he had <-ome as It were with a stride across the Atlantic, I began to look withm: for he had seemed to cry, "To the ready and the unprepared I come." There was a peculiar seriousness immediately percepti- ble on the face of society. The gay and lively had gener- ally disappcjared, and no longer interrupted such thoughts as abundant leisure inclined others to entertain. And what thoughts were these? We were soon deserted by most of our friends, or had deserted them for the same rea- son : we hud momentary expectations for weeks of see- ing our own children, parents, brothers, and sisters seized with the terrible disease before our eyes ; and the morninir evening, noon, and night air being almost equally dangeroiil we could do little out of doors for days in succession. I cannot easily imagine a case in which the body could be condemned to more ])erf(.ct idleness, while there was every thing to excite and occupy the mind. Almost every species of food, coiinnoiily consideied harmless or nutritious, was prohibited ; and the very medicines which we kep.' by our bedsides, in our offices, Mores, and pockets, wc were pe- vemptoriiy lorbiddeii to take or adn.inister a moment before or a im.meiu alier the appropriate time. In cin-uni*-tances like these it would be impo.xMbie for any mmd, obiservaiU 17 ii J(;. ;^ 190 NEW-YOHK. of its own reflections and the movements of others, not to „ce vc1^t«truction. Not only my own feelings, but the ex- cess ons dropped from the lips of others, were of a jnuch Ue solemn tone, and deeper import than usual. I found an involuntary " farewell" on my tongue whenever I parted from a friend, even for a few hours, and a kmd of surprise at meei gany one whom 1 had not seen for a day or two. Li e wa so precarious that it was not calculated on as en- Sir ngfand 1 now felt something of that astonishment at dell delay which I had often experienced on his arrival. The tone of conversation, with whomsoever I spoke, was I^Jdently very different from that of ordinary times: for thire were strong and irrepressible feelings in every breast, wS ch laid their hands upon the tongue, the l"«bs and the 7eaturcs. The soul seemed to press to the eyes with such anxiety to watch the exterior world, that you could see t Ser than ever before. The risible muscles seemed pal- £ aid Siose which are usually ready to furl the curtains of the countenance in smiles, no longer obeyed, or rather were no longer ordered to act. , . :„ A frLd, in speaking of the idle questions of certain thoughS persons from a distant place, on this awful sSS said, » When they exclaimed 'how can you sub- 2,0 such privations of food 1' I felt like weeping at the memory of the solemn lessons which had placed us above such fdvolous considerations as those of taste. Ah, you Cw not what you can do till the cholera comes among V^u 'Did you not prohibit the subject from conversation! [nquired they ' How would that have been possible V replied r "besides'how heathenish, how impious it would ha>^ b;en, so to close our eyes against the sight of the Almighty s iudnments-so to stifle the voice of Providence 1 ^ »rhavemade one discovery," remarked another riend, » which I intend to practise the rest of my life. I find I can noTonly live on vJry simple food, entirely undisguised by spces and gravies, but that two-thirds or one-half the quan- Sv I used to consid..r necessary for my sustenance is more favourable to my health and enjoyment How important a practical lesson is this which the cholera has taught me ! Had ORK. le movements of others, not to yr my own feelings, but the ex- ips of others, were of a much r import than usual. I found my tongue whenever I parted hours, and a kind of surprise lad not seen for a day or two. t was not calculated on as en- ething of that astonishment at rten experienced on his arrival, vith whomsoever I spoke, was n that of ordinary times: for essible feelings in every breast, the tongue, the limbs, and the to press to the eyes with such )r world, that you could see it rhe risible muscles seemed pal- isually ready to furl the curtains les, no longer obeyed, or rather ct. the idle questions of certam a distant place, on this awful ' exclaimed 'how can you sub- food V I felt like weeping at the sons which had placed us above ,ns as those of taste. Ah, you lo till the cholera comes among lit the subject from conversation V 1 that have been possible V replied ish, how impious it would have igainst the sight of the Almighty's 3 voice of Providence ?'" overy," remarked another friend, e the rest of my life. I find I can iplc food, entirely undisguised by at two-thirds or one-half the quan- :essary for my sustenance is more nd enjoyment. How important a ch the cholera has taught me ! Had RECOLLECTIONS OF THE CIIOLKRA. 191 I learned and practised upon it from my youth, I might have been a more happy, wealthy, and useful man. I wish I could proclaim, on the house-tops, the doctrine I now em- brace ; it would save thousands from disease, poverty, suf- fering, and even death." It was only because the warnings of physicians against our eating prohibited articles was repeatedly and terribly backed by the sudden voice of death, that we were won over to entire obedience to their commands, at first often treated as childish. Some slight indulgence of appetite was often found, like the feeble wire pointed at a thunder cloud, the cause of an instantaneous and deadly bolt from heaven. We then found that we dearly loved life : and »' What shall we eat, and what shall we drink?" was changed for "What shall a man give in exchange for his soul ?" The effect of abstinence was soon perceptible in the mind as well as the body. The pulse was cooler, the feelings more manageable though more powerfully acted upon, the reason more undistur- bed, and the judgment more deliberate, decided, and uniform. Morning, noon, and midnight this world and the next stood before the eyes in the same proximity and comparative importance. Joy and grief sat, as it were, for weeks within the reach of our hands, on the right and the left: equally prepared to join our company at a moment's warning, when- ever death or life should be decided on for ourselves or our friends. The weather was delijrhtful during the most fearful ravages of the disease. I walked out early on the Hattery, alone- there was no walking or doing any thing else for pleasure. 1 admired the thick and verdant foliage ; and turned for horne with the reflection that so splendid a morning and such verdure I had seldom or never witnessed. Tlie long silent, and empty streets, with the grass starting throuHi the pavements, and the curb-stones white with a washhialf moon, I vill %?" rT" "" '^' ''""'^" "^ "'« •'■■^y- 1"' " ^vhat 11 w il. The daughters-with heads garnished without, and empty as the gourd-shells their father used to drink out of— what wdl be left of you after the thunder-storm of death shall have c eared away, which must in his turn strike the mam pdlar of your house ! Heartless, headless, and helo- less by education ! Fashion has not only trained your feet m Chinese shoes, and blown through your brains like a bird's egg, but has taught you crooked paths, and poured poison into your hearts. O for a eup-full of that good counsel which your grandmother used to pour out like water ; O the inHuence of her example upon you for an hour! Would there not be some little hope of your breaking through the great system of imposture which all things seem eombin- mg to play before your eyes ? A youth from Scotland, on board, is hastening northward Je sooner to turn westward, and to feast his taste ai iNiagara. Fancies concerning the giant of cataracts he has mdulged in among his native hills ; and the secret of his ounosity, as I believe is often the case, appears ta be to n* 'tII '" f i 104 HUDSON Birr.it. compare tli« reality with the crrniion of \m iniaainalion. I am preimrtHl lo find liim at first dixappoii.lc.l, aiul alU'rwarU more llian Rraiified : for I doubt not lu; Iv.is heaved ON«a on Pelion to make the eataraei nish from helween two nioun- tains, as that is the way cascades do in Scoiiand ; and il would he natural for a stranger to look for sinkuig leaiures in the scencrv of the tremendous ver^c. 'rinis he will he disappointed,' if not disullVcted, hy the fir.t view. 1 he imaiiimiion is a most wonderful arehiticl. 1 remember that the cathedrals of France, when 1 visited them m my outh, appeared much too small : and when 1 stepped out of St. Peter's, and looked at the blue sky. 1 ihoufrht— » Paltry little insect ! I'oor man, is this then all you can do^" A heathen writer says, tiiat the nature of the gm\a was lamentably degraded by the sculptors of Greece, be- cause the representations they Rave of them m marble w iiwolvwl in its shadow, awed eslored to the light of the sun. ar from that eminence like the md it costs an exertion to real- i be of importance enough to ose things on which wealth or las become a microscopic ob- s the least diminutive of his jf a claim to this or that speck lome-lot or a fishing privilege, ilous. Poor creatures, why not t is necessary, assist those wha nbjecis worthy of attention and the insect that he prefers the sad the wings with which he rer region. " De gustibus non naut, whose pig squealed as he lose his way through the bottom led its way slowly down over a miles, deluging the country, as SVNRISE SCENB. 197 I afterward learned. Where all the water came from I could not imagme; neither could I see whence came all the douds which afterward overspread the valley of the Hudson. Wuring a thunder-storm, which threw its lightning and ut- tered Its thunders over a great space beneath us, we enjoyed almost uninterrupted sunshine. At length a commotion began among the clouds in the south, where a cluster of small and rounded eminences, like the hills of an old corn- field, showed the Highlands (now robbed of their sublimity); and a wmd blowing through that pass, rolled up the vapours in heaps, l.ke snowballs, increasing as they proceeded, till they were all flying northward, as if in haste to escape from view, rhetr forms and agitation reminded me of the con- sternation of a panic-struck army: and a few small clouds came pouring over the heights above our heads, and min- glmg with them, like timid confederates afraid to await the wrath of some unseen conqueror. Almost all this time, two rainbows of the brightest colours stood just before us, with their feet planted upon the green foliage, fifty yards or more below the precipice, forming arches -.vhicli approached three- quarters of a circle, with the most splendid colours imagi- nable especially about the keystone. The glittering aspect which the landscape afterward assumed, with the motions of the sads on the river, the singing of the birds around us. and the colours of the sky in a beautiful sunset, left the heart and mind in a lofty tone to await the solemnities of night After a period of calmness all around, when the air had been undisturbed for about two hours, lightning began to flash, and thi:iider to roll beneath us ; and during several hours, the whole valley seemed overflowing with the sounds of battle. The evening passed amid the comforts and light of the great parlour, in a social circle, now enlarged by the addition of several friends unexpectedly found in that aerial retreat. A few glimpses at the moon and the landscape, after mid- night, fr„„i the window of my bedroom, occupied my fre- quent waking moments ; and as soon as I o.yM percei4 the first blush of dawn, I dressed, and hastened to the roof of the hotel, to watch the approach of day, to a scene whose I 198 CATTSKILt MOUNTAINS. whiteness made me suppose it had been covered with snow. There was more sublimity to be feasted upim every moment that passeu, than some people witness in their whole lives. What a grovelling soul that must be which prefers a morrn ing slumber to such a sight ! When the spirit of a man is once roused, his senses oppose no resistance to his wdl. Let a spark of glory, from such a scene, once kindle his heart ; and sight, hearing— his whole animal nature— are roused and ready to do their parts. Let the master but appear, and the slaves will obey. The fresh and unbrealhed morning air, the glowing east, the boundless scene, made me feel as if released for ever from weariness and care. As the light increased in the sky to a broad glow, it gave something of its hue and brilliancy to a sheet of whiteness which overspread the whole valley of the Hudson, for not less than twelve or fifteen miles m width and thirty or more in length. How so heavy a snow- storm could have prevailed there in summer, I could not divine ; but every hill and wood was covered, and nothmg could be discovered below the higher uplands except the course of the river, like a dark line traversing the scene from north to south. A bright red glare at length lay across the whole vale between me and the sun ; which, when he rose, was increased almost to the glitter of polished metal. The beams struck upon the neighbouring heights, and the few remaining trees of the ancient pine orchard near me, which once stood in rows, as if planted by the hand of man. The birds chirped, and the cocks began to crow at the base of the mountain ; and peak after peak grew bright, till it became broad day to the whole world around. I wi;s now surprised to see something like a white sheet lifted gradually up from the opposite bank of the Hudson, showing a few fields, houses, roads, and wood-lots beneath it ; and gradually mile after mile was thus slowly laid bare by the removal of a thin covering of dense white mist, which was slowly rolled off clean by the south wind, and revealed to my eye many of the hills and valleys, the farms and vil- lages, the meadows and slopes of three counties, the abode of some liionsands of inhabitants. (OVNTAINS. t had been covered with snow, be feasted upim every moment ! witness in their whole lives, nust be which prefers a morrk- When the spirit of a man is ise no resistance to his will, uch a scene, once kindle his liis whole animal nature — are ir parts. Let the master but bey. morning air, the glowing east, e feel as if released for ever \ the light increased in the sky nhing of its hue and brilliancy ih overspread the whole valley lian twelve or fifteen miles in ength. How so heavy a snow- there in summer, I could not rood was covered, and nothing he higher uplands except the Jark line traversing the scene [it red glare at length lay across and the sun ; which, when he the glitter of polished metal, neighbouring heights, and the ancient pine orchard near me, as if planted by the hand of ind the cocks began to crow at nd peak after peak grew bright, he whole world around. ce something like a white sheet ; opposite bank of the Hudson, 3, roads, and wood-lots beneath mile was thus slowly laid bare ering of dense white mist, which by the south wind, and revealed 1 and valleys, the farms and vil- pes of three counties, the abode itants. A GRAMMAR SCHOOL 199 All these sights, and more, were offered to mv view anrf all their mdescribable impressions to my mind fn the ;hor? space of twenty hours, which limited my visit A rice of two miles took us to the lakes and the cascad s, L tv" «. a sight down the Clove,_a deep and declining moumai„! pass through which the stream that flowed beside uTnT -ues US headlong way, after its two leaps of 1 75 a„d 85 fe " CHAPTER XXVI. in vigour or capacity by ti ^ZZTltr'TZt as might be wished-for a giant is not senSe S J s ow„ growth. I am sure, however, that I was oftnn f,ll«.i .u rfisgust at a language which I ought trhave been maH? ove; viewed with jealousy and rLentmem my teacher and lu UoTtT' ^^^P--y«- of misanthropy and of di"^ lated widel/i„ my views^ of^re lite"' °"" '^"^- and witnessed'a numberof boys engareSmTrV''"' '^''^ Ployments; and to-day sometLgSpeedT^^^^^^^ Uoned in conversation^ which hafrecE hi "VaT pantion, in the seat of an examiner, at the schoolof mJ speak, seemed to strike a cliill tiirouirh thp « ^ 200 HUDSON RIVER. \ turns with that fatal spur, emulation ; that alcohol of the intellect, that labour-saving instrument to which the ignorant and ihe indolent teacher ever resorts, because it easily ex- cites that attention which ho ought to produce by displaying the attractions and the practical use of learnmg. One inleresiing youh, at the head of his class, intoxicated with praise, and desp.ralely fearing a fall » from h.s high estate," showed extreme a-T-iation in his eye, ins cheeii, and his voice; and experienced emotions more exhausting to his mind, I liave no doubt, than the labour of mastering three such lessons. Anollier, smiling with the consciousness o a task well performed, and the anticipation of a successful recitation, failed through an amiable diffidence lo retain his presence of mind ; and from one accidental error fell into a labyrinth from which he coidd not recover his way, and sinking into his seat, with swelling veins, sobbed and wept till the close of the exercise. A third, after passing unhurt the ordeal of construing and parsing, was treated with a contemptuous expression by the teacher for a paltry Jault in not discriminating between "the use of the poets and "position" in giving the rules for scanning; and I saw nis evil genius, an irritable temper, which ought to have been systematically pacified by a judicious treatment, rise and drive his feelings almost to desperation. This was as much as I could bear, and I was glad to retreat from such an m- telleclual and moral inquisition. . , . . A short interview wiih one of those active bemgs who have shared in the excitement and labours of our new and distant settlemenls, or beat tlie bush in advance of civili- zation, conveys more lively ideas of what is actually going on there, than reading all the essays and statistics in the world Now and then we meet a stray one m this part of the country. He looks like a wild bird in an aviary, or amid a yard of domestic fowls : so regular and orderly and stupid .lo we all feel in his presence. Two or tliree such characters 1 have r.illcn in with ; but it is impossible to get a regular narration out of tlicm of greater length than a lew niinut.s. Thcv li;ive brouirlil thrir restless aciiviiy along Willi ihem, and' seem plo>iLally un.ible to be quiet. One ( RIVER. mulation; that alcohol of the itrumrni to winch the ignorant r resorts, because it easily cx- )ught to produce by displaying •ill use of learning, e head of his class, intoxicated fearing a fall " from his high alion in his eye, his cheek, and emotions more exhausting to n the labour of mastering three ing with the consciousness of lie anticipation of a successful amiable diffidence to retain his one accidental error fell into a idd not recover his way, and veiling veins, sobbed and wept A third, after passing unhurt d parsing, was treated with a r the teacher for a paltry fault en " the use of the poets" and !s for scanning ; and I saw his iper, which ought to have been I judicious treatment, rise and lesperation. This was as much /lad to retreat from such an in- ion. ne of those active beings who !nt and labours of our new and ; the bush in advance of civili- ide-is of what is actually going he essays and statistics in the meet a stray one in this part of i.e a wild bird in an aviary, or ivls : so regular and orderly and presence. Two or ilirce sucli wiih; but it is iinpossilde to get icm of groiitcr length llian a few lijhl their restless activity uloiig iailly un.ible to be quiet. One A BACKWOODSMAN. 201 boaf ""nf h'?? ""^ '"'""":' '' ^°°" ^' I '^'' '»«• i" the knew. " everywhere-why, or how. I never " Was you ever in St. Louis ? New-Orleans ?'•_» Ah mon am, !"_» At Detroit?"-- There's a rough set of M- lows. I was one of the first on the Upper H -on! 1,'a eett nl settled now fast with people from New-York. '-" Have ySS ever been along to the north of Lake Superior ?" He was a short man tn a bluejacket, with both hands on a double- "P, lebt I should murcept any of the view; for a good woodman's s.ght, I believe, sweeps three-quarters oJ a If he had been used to long grass and snakes ; and although h.s age was probably fifty, every nerve was full of activity every hmb o vigour, and every motion and word of S pendence and fearlessness. lnw'/""i "h i''" -'^^f '««'PPi they are an active set of fel- lows, said he; "they can build steamboats and launch them, and run them, and blow them up about as quick as any other people ^ Shoal a-head !' yoS'll hear 'emT g ou --'Howdoyou know?'-. Why, she ripples.'-' Well sit on the safet3'-valve, and jump her over!' That's pleasant iT •ng enough, to be sure, where you find the watermen nter-" pnsmg so ; but ii'« cruel to see the deer come dow.r to he hore to drmk, and not stop to go after them with your riie! Ontadi ?;"" ' ' ''" ^°"- '""'' ' '-^^» -'ong Lake Ontar 0. 1 here's some woods there, but not much game ; yet I thought u was fine fun to be all alone with Lold where do you thmk I was next ? Why, after being at Cm- to rlrn ' ^°"'' ''r\ '''' '^'"'S -nJ another, I got o« to Green Bay, among the Indians. There's a set of hones fellows for you. You needn't have anybody to go S you and say th.s ts Mr. such a n.an. All /ou've'got to do s ifjou come across a bear or a deer, just shoot them and leave them on the ground ; and the first wigwam vTu come to, say, 'Friend, I've come among you LTuZ 18 w 202 HVD80N RiVKR. while to stay; I iloii'i want any thing but just to shoot my rifle once in a wliilc— There's a bear or a deer just back in the woods, which any of you can liave il' you want it.' I tell you what, if ihey won't treat you like the biggest man ! And you needn't do any more than this : the story wdl go before you ; and wherever you come they know you ; and how you can shoot a bear, or a deer, as the case may be. Well, then 1 thought I would go where there wasn't so much civilization ; for I wanted to see more of the Indiana ; and I've been through that country all along a good piece north of Lake Superior." » Do you know that district?" inquired a listener. "Ask my gun," replied the speaker. " 1 was there six weeks, all alone, among as good game as ever fell under a muzzle. That's the life : get two or three days' provisions of venison or bear's meat on your back, shot-bag full, powder-horn full ; and then, if you meet an Indian, or a while man, or any thing, you can befriend them. But you want to know some- thing of folks before you can trust them. The Green Bay Indians,— I should feel safe among them to lie right down on the ground, in the woods, between two, and sleep all night. Why, a man would be a great deal safer so than he would be in Broadway, in New-York, with fifty dollars in his pocket, at eleven o'clock at night. » They are good fellows ; but I'm ready to shoot vyith any of them :— walking, running, swimming, diving, flying, any way. I've shot witii Egg Harbour fellows on the wing, and I'll try with an Indian any way he likes, till they come to a sitting mark and a dead rest ; and then I've done with him." After the capture of the forts on the highlands by the British, in 1777, and breaking the chain stretched across the Hudson, at West Point, they sailed up ; and, as I have been informed, burnt a brig in Saugerties Creek. They had a man on board, of Dutch extraction, who pointed out the dwellings of persons particularly obnoxious to the enemy. On passing the liouse where Wasliington had been quartered, tlic^y fired a shot through the roof. They burnt a brig, loaded vvitli tea, in Saugeilies Creek, and Mr. Liv- ingston's house opposite and several others. UVKR. ly thing but just to shoot my 1 a bear or a deer just back I can liave ii' you want it.' I at you like the biggest man ! than this : tlie story will go 1 come they know you ; and a deer, as the case may be. 1 go wlicre there wasn't so il to see more of the Indians ; iutry all along a good piece ?" inquired a listener. "Ask " 1 was there six weeks, all 18 ever fell under a muzzle, ee days' provisions of venison lot-bag full, powder-horn full ; dian, or a white man, or any But you want to know some- trust them. The Green Bay mong them to lie right down I, between two, and sleep all a great deal safer so than he ew-York, with fifty dollars in tt night. ut I'm ready to shoot with any swimming, diving, flying, any rbour fellows on the wing, and ly he likes, till they come to a and then I've done with him." brts on the highlands by the ig the chain stretched across hey sailed up ; and, as I have in Haugerties Creek. They •h extraction, who pointed out particularly obnoxious to the iv where Wasliington had been through the roof. They burnt iaugeilies Creek, and Mr. Liv- several others. FASHIONABtE Itt HEALTH. 203 sttlln.l by I-rencb Huguenots, who emigrated, after a Ions nT tl^l'n"; ,"•;"""'' '""''"' -'"y^"«eh connexionf »U ihgenee. Another settlemont of the same kind was made bdow, at the Strand, ot.e of the landi.tgs of King- bletown. They chose the best soil. A (icrman settlement was made west of the Catskill Mountains. AtTappan was a real Dutch settlement, ..nd Newburgh was a colony of Irish. olZlTr" IT'''"^ ' fellow-passenger, who spoke from personal knowledge, «is at a low ebb. The intelligence of the ongirral French faded away amid their scattered set- U men ts and the dangers and trials of their situation, along with the anguage. The schools have been few and poor Ihe academy, founded at Newburgh many years aJ ha, produced considerable eflects. Governor ClhUon thS; 'e! oe.ved ail important part of his education, as well as a num. sioi^s. He probably learned here, from observation, the im- portance of public education, of which he became a most efficient advocate." " See how much better I feel already," said a young lady to her father, as they sat down at breakfast; " I feef quite hungry, and have no doubt that by the time I have been a! the Springs a week or two, if I have exercise enough, I "wLl"'' ^.'7f\«f-ient to set off for Ning.rSll th2; 'S'"! '•'' ^"'^''^ ^^ho seemed to be absorbed ia thoughts of his business, which he had reluctantly left at the city, as It would appear, to attend his daughter on a tour for pleasure, under the pretext of health,-" Well, if you get ciired of your dispepsia, or whatever it is, it's all I want I am hungry too: I believe this air is good for us both'' JNeither of the two had sagacity enough to perceive th^t rising two hours earlier than'usual. with'che exd eme"! and exercise they had experienced, were the chief causes of 'Se wn K' i 5 ^ T'^ reasonable system of life at home would have had nearly the same effect on them every day! 204 HUDSON RIVER. And this is the simple truth in respect to a large majonty of those who travel lor their healtli every season. They n.iglit avoid the symptoms from which they ruffer, hy foUowmg a few of those simple rules of nature from which we never can deviate with impunity; or if they have become enfee- bled or diseased by conformity to the examples oi laslnon- able life, might thus soon and eflectually recover a sound state of health. No apology can be necessary for my quoting here the adage so worn out by frequent repetitions in my youthful ears, because now it is entirely obsolete among many circles, and will sound like a perfect novelty. «« Early to bed nnd oarlv to rise, Will make you healthy, wealthy, and wise. Retire and rise early; aim low in matters of show ; and in things of solid worth let none shoot at a higher mark than vou. Plan something useful every day ; do somethmg good every hour, and love something good every >no"ient. Ke- JectThe foolish conceit, that any thing like useful labour can be dishonourable. Introduce your ham.s and feet to such services as they were designed for ; whde you occi|py your mind with the contemplation of subjects worthy of its na- ture, and your heart with those pure affections on which ""Z^ T;^^L poor, puny, spoiled chiM ! Every one. even the plainest of these doctrines, had been efleciually ghut out from her education. Thousands had been expended on teachers, books, and instruments ; bvt it seemed as il no a pennyworth of good discipline or instruction had reached her head or her heart. • r „„ .,«,. Amid a lively conversation on various topics, ol no par- ticular interest, I heard one remark wliWi startled me :— » New-York," said a female voice, " is a city of the greatest taste in America." The speaker was a milliner, who was on her return to a country-town, with all the latest fashmns, and I know not how many hundreds of dollars worth of silks, velvets, plumes, hcee, plush, ribands, and straw, bhc had been requested, as she declared.V seveial of the ladte* RIVER. respect to a large majority of ill every season. They might ;h they niffer, by following a nature from which we never »r if they liave become enfee- J to the examples of fashion- 1 effectually recover a sound y can be necessary for my jrn out by frequent repetitions c now it is entirely obsolete 1 sound like a perfect novelty. Iv to rise, liy, wealthy, and wise. low in matters of show ; and ne shoot at a higher mark than jvery day ; do something good ling good every moment. Re- my thing like useful labour can ! your hands and feet to such cd for ; while you occupy your 1 of subjects worthy of its na- 1080 pure affections on which ny, spoiled child ! Every one, doctrines, had been effectually Tliousands had been expended uments ; bvt it seemed as if not iline or instruction had reached n on various topics, of no par- remark wliWi startled me : — voice, " is a city of the greatest eaker was a milliner, who was )wn, with all the latest fashions, f hundreds of dollars worth of plush, ribands, and straw. She ieclared.V seveial of the ladies A TALKING MILMNER. 808 of her neighbourhood, to make inquiries about the materials form, and texture of bonnets, ha... ha„dken.hiei:..rrev J dresses and shoes. As an accidental want of so „e of the refmements of speech uu^hi have ren.lcrcd her i IrLe among her own society ...newhat doubtful, she TTZ pan,s .0 mentmn names, characters, an.l conuoxion". w h the exact nature of ,he commissions .she bore, and a v r ny o Ml eresung matter relating to ways and n.^.ns by v rh she had been enabled to accomplish them. I ...i.^u 1 1 wondered. 1 suppose, why so ,„any sedate, judi..].:, dil interested, and even literary la.lies could f,.e/.so „ .'a t -ty to possess such oi-jeCs ; or to obtain this or that i. d . u fact or opnnon Iron, New- Vork milliners ; hut I was .in i«hed to learn, that the rap.d narrator had „,et so I- ^ .' ons hke herself in the city, bound on si.nilar errat I. . oaded w.th just s„eh conunissiot.s, from towns and v II ^J eas^, west, north, tuidsottth. "The improvements in n IJ,! Uon. as a lady rcnutrked, " were of great consequence ; ^,r as the Parisians have in May; and so be only about four or hve weeks behtnd ,hem all the year." A very inte cs.Z F.bhcat,on. al«o had been commenced some time s ^TS s^on of mtelhgence n relation to d.ess; each number of which contains several fine-coloured engravings of costumes So menonous a work as this, and one, if possible, in ad vance of the spirit of the age. would, no doubt, meet ab „ dant support; and was worthy of the broken-down French fancier who was to be the editor. * renca sue^Tn^;f^'^^^' ^' '" ^ '"'■"*^'' =^^^'^y '■'°'" '^^ hearing of such intellectual conversation, here is betrayed one of the cog-wheels of society. Here is one of those great counteraa, .ng mfluences which cause so much waste of power in oir machine. VVhoever has turned a crank, or pulled or pushed to aul the advance of public intelligence, morals, or'^rapl ness and wondered why his exertions proved of so IhSe u«e, let him just look here. Here is enough to explain aorae par. of his difficulty. Minds and hearts oa which l2 18* # 206 HVDSOM RIVER. has wished to make impressions, he may now see, were otherwise employed ; money, a Utile of whu^h was ncccs- sary to the accomplishment, was rumung out m llooda another way; while principles of social harmony, dismter- estedness, and benevolence, could not easily be cultivated, or even planted on ground occupied by those of an opposite nature. Here you will find one reason why incomes arc not always equal to expenditures; why libraries are so small ; the fireside so much deserted ; schools so few and so poor ; frivolity so much tolerated ; hoaUli, in a thousand cases, unnecessarily exposed and life sacrificed. Hut do not let me drone on so, while this is a note of the baKpipe wliich the ladies will not endure. 'Die wives and daughters of fellow-citizens, of all classes, will unite, il m nothing else, in putting down him who assails their cars with such unwelcome sounds. 1 therefore must cease; otherwise they would have no longer peace of conscience in refusing dollar and half dollar contributions lor the conilorl of the poor, the instruction of the ignorant, the care of the acred, insane, or infirm; while they continue yearly to be- stow ten or an hundred times the amount on such wares ot their milliners and mantua-makcrs as they know to be (luitc unnecessary for comfort, convenience, and every thmg, ex- cept — fashion. s J] p li ir to a w RIVER. ions, he may now see, were a litlle of wliich was neccs- was running out in ilootla i of social harmony, disintcr- ould not easily be cultivated, cupiecl by those of an opposite one reason why incomes arc litures ; why libraries are so deserted ; schools so few and leratcd ; health, in a thousand and life sacrificed. I so, while this is a note of the II not endure. The wives and of all classes, will unite, if in ni him who assails their ears ids. 1 therefore must cease ; longer peace of conscience in ar conlribuiions for the comfort if the ignorant, the care of the lile they continue yearly to be- s the amount on such wares of lakcrs as they know to be (luitc nvenience, and every thing, ex- 207 1 CHAPTEK AXVii. America- Value of our oZTo„ir'""«'~^ ^'"'"^'^ ^^i"'"' "« -that is a settled ihin.r • J „ "'"" '"">■'''• where, !uu at ivIiMf «l. -ill ..,„ . . ;' ""-""'"!»[ I'e, uhen, -i.i-:ndi„;u::':;:,::;;^:^;t.: '';:--!;'"«'"• ^ot. oncc that the jury-box was one nf V ^ '""'"^ "''■"» Tor thejury-ro'on?. thaVL 7;, o/le^'f ^^ V "! tears. "Ail this " i^ ih,, i..., I 'ilteinate smiles and believe, an pledge ™t;^"'''^ °'^"""T' '•^' " ' ^"'-'"'^ this intdiigent J^ry."^ '° ^""""^ ^" '^' satisfaction of I was once, while a citizen of New- York r.li i r .0 ™c„ seen j,t;r ,™r:;z':s, °'X?j\:s':r 208 PRIVILEOES or JURORS. I • CJentlpmcn of the jury !' Tlin othrr eleven roso, ami 1 for ail irmtaiil kept inv Kcat. If ihi-y were ueiillemeii, I eer- taiiily was not. An'old I'euKle of an usurer was l)rou«ht up. from one of the dark ri'lreatn of niisi ry, to prosecute ii |)ale and ragifcil man for the recovery of a debt. The eoun- sel for the def.iiee ph'aded that the note was tainted wUh UHury, and liroutrht up a witneMs to prove it. He swore tliat the iilainiill^ wife roeeived an unhiwful interest for tho money in her husband's pr.:senee, and lliat thin was the eonmion mamuT in which iliey conducted Im.siness. Wc were fdh;d witli indiKuation ; and to express our reprol)atu)ii of such an enormity, found a verdict for defendant without U'avmir 9s of certain siifnalures occu- li 1 was siniek with two kinds k clerks and others in judt,^n« L'ouiisel in leading them to nul- le eyt^ of a juryman. Several •mcr lidd previously examined d fixed on a portion of them as had now heeii withdrawn, and ;ir place. The witnesses, in- aelectcd what each supposed iisel kept careful notes of their hing the specimens by private t, when read to «s, overthrew timony, and in my mind humaiv from which it has never reeov- ,vas serious, and that on several ithdrew to the jury-room, and » determine on damages, I was midst of my vexation. Among sdiately proved to be ten of one had slept through the whole difference between the coun- je's charge. It was even doubt. •MRATOOA nATTLK-OROIfND. 209 fnl whether he iia"'• " iCil.orur. teppi,.^^^^^^^^ you Stand sentry over the baggage. stenping ^ -With your leave, captain,' said the old man, stepping -^^iaTsrit;t?7;M-:^ and 'nder r,U«6. .. r""-". """'^^^ 'J,' eie'd :t^;Lrrprr;rt;n„r.7wr,;«^^ ?h/ nd of thrravine, the captain intended to fom and at- irrvrrititriiet;;;:^ f-ot however, and just then seeing a red-coat Hurrying It^ss a field at a distance, a thouglu came into Ins head to across a new ax ^^^^^ ^^^^ ^j^^ ^„„^ theTrr ' t: Id i^cU:Ld up. J^nped into the fot. 2i"a montent the Sil.er Gray, had eomplete posse»,o„ of h, without the l"-;f - » „;,'';'^ »- ,:« iron, the late MiU™. aSjoiSs that of Ualhton. This region wa. on lie banks of Kuyderos, or Kayderoseras Brook, tne frame of which was standing near the academy. lRV anecdotes. ion, to enjoy all the shelter it id a large anil powerful man, in forward, pale and trembling, ' I > to lead back the horses. ' Go, indignation ; ' we shall do belter lumber.'—' Deacon • ,' said elled with age, ' you are too fee- he day. It is my pleasure tliat aggage.' tain,' said the old man, stepping .Idier's sign of respect to a su- air of a youth as he could, — ve a pull at 'em first.' cJ their admiration at his spirit ; reduced, succeeding as it did the in a younger man, they marched the enemy. When they reached captain intended to form and at- yei be at some distance from the on looking up he found himsell lud the tories taking aim at him t he lay upon the ground, a bullet , foot ; and a friend near him ran him killed. He sprang upon his then seeing a red-coat hurrying c, a thouglit came into his head to c cried out — ' Come on, they run, climbed up, jumped into the fort, er Grays had complete possession Hie of their number." obtained a few facts from the late , relating to the early history oi the iring watering-place. The village bin' the limits of the township of of Ballston. This region was mv informant, who removed hither V, in 1769, and buiU the first house eros, or Kaydcroseras Brook, tne iding near the academy. LEUITRE TIME. 213 look., . for stray .attle; and the Indians ofien cancl om Oneula to hunt, in bodies of two or three hundred No Indians however, had their residence in this vicin tv- m father at an interview with Sir WiUiam Johnson, o.ui he ird STL X oivr' r'"^ "'■''" ''"'"'' '-''■' '- -::;IvSt ilie bat le ol Lake George, m 1755, wliiel, was in the front F.rt of his th.gh, and remained open till he d ed 'Z pl.ysi.-.an« afterward recommended to Sir WiUiai ,„ S tJu.. Spring, the water being celebrate,! at Albany and She ne ac y as goo.l in some diseases. Sir WilJiani, therdb e sent about ten men to ch^ar a road for his carriage, or h ter bT atd n""'-t '' '".'^^""-"' ""^''^^ '^' clirec'ti^n o m' .' Bal , and my informant dined w„h him hi a large marouee pitched on the level border of Ballston Lake^ N .i hj same p ace were .he log-houses of two men „ ed McDonald, who had settled there about seven year bl- fore his father's arrival. The company aftervva d pro- ceeded to the Spring, where Sir Wilhani used .he wi r but without any material benefit. ' vpr*'"' "^'""^'"'i "'" "^^ '^""''^ I ™«y "lention, that a few yea.s ago, a small image of a man, made, I think, of tne wall garnets fbr eyes, was found near tha !i..le Jake ' r' mg a s,rong resemblance in form and appearance uTs;,; have been .aken from some of .he western mounds," .o.,: . ng to Mr. Alwater, and .ending .o confute us s.ill uore a ti r:of '.r "'"" '" "'■'^'" "'■ ^'"^ '"'■""■'• ""-^"- « " uiis part ot tl;c country. J-eisure time-here is a por.ion of existence which ^s to be carefully regarde.l and watched over, whether it belongs o mdivKluals or to connnuni.ies. What J.rogress n ktw e jre nug t the most humble, even .he LS bus;,^!^ -". ke m the course of his life, if he were to purs le' .ome indtcous plati (or the occupation of his leisur'e luouie " 19 314 THK 8raW0»- „ightbepreventeJ^ P«^^^^^^^^^ of the unemployed ume :rtCe':hoU\ft:d Le a.ange„.n.for the pur- r«^Uaveoa^ev;den.p.s.t^e^^^ leisure time at the •^«'"'"J"^ "' ^'""^ Europe, and those at the libraries of '""">''«\';""" "^^^^^^^ as tl^e millions innumerable CO e^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ wodS, from the pencils of p.ctures ^^''"^^^^^ „ere gratification of taste, or of artists who laboured lor ""^ "^ f discouragement, byadesperatehope b-e ^ E l^sanL of talel which Listen to, or rather iiunK palace of every coun- are told over and ^^^^fr*'// and think of the wear and try in their intervals of ^-^''^J ' ;^^;_ ''" „ired to carry on Jar of tongues and ears,^n^^^^^^^^ And- ^vhy the the tmle tatt e o f«"; "J ''^^ „^ ,, ,east tired, is a great .busy memb - " ^^^/^^.^^^ ^.^tting rocks ituo pebbles wonder. U is Hh-e me exertion of force which and grinding ^he- to sand wuh n ex t.o^ ^^._ sure time should be nrsi g \^ which are merely „ents, and then, if P^^/^'l^'^^^j^^^her act on this simple '•^'"'f aufhe X y a bait which must bear a noble * tri:rSplaces we meet a greatvariety of com- Pi"y* „ oc. if wp beffin to stray into ^ It'sometimes seems '^ ^r^^^^llZl\Ze. I have been some folly as soon as we ^'^f" '« ^J^^ ^^\, ....uties and listening to the remarks of ^ gentleman on perfections of the «-- j-« J .^f.^L, is suci; own honest mind, as \7/^'"" "'",.. jf ,,^ had openly be- an impression as would have ''^;=" ^^'^ ^ ^^i" jedand or lied our country and -- ^ '\ ^^.^ P/t*;" ul I am dis- Gulliver's lirobdignag. Ihis is nov I RINGS. what sufferings and crimes ,n were made in every village tiion of the unemployed time ne arrangements for the pr- esented of the great amount of of different individuals. Look inuscripts in Europe, and those timings, as well as the millions the old world, from the pencds e mere gratification of taste, or , against every discouragement. I the thousands of tales which by the populace of every coun- ,ur ; and think of the wear and ,d feelings required to carry on five continents. And' why the 1 out, or at least tired, is a great ean, fretting rocks into pebbles, with an exertion of force which iruct temples or pyramids. Lei- uarded against injurious employ- ., against those which are merely and the teacher act on this simp e a basis which must bear a noble ingle day, a single individual 1 ; how much more a parent with the benevolent man who can give s we meet a great variety of com- me as if we begin to stray into begin to leave home. I have been ,f a gentleman on the beauties and ,„ language; and alll find in my result of his conversation, IS such have been left if he had openly be- ,„duded by preferring Iceland or This is not because I am dis- BEADTIB8 Of THE OKRMAN. S|j| posed to underrate German or any other language ; but be- cause I have a just esteem for English. I dare say that in my heart my regard for German is'equal to his naj, that J should value ,., on the whole, more than he. I do L ove C^sar less, but I love Rome more. There is a propensilv n us, under the influence of the schools we have pass d us and to seek every pretext for admiring what is foreign. i i 7i "'^ '^! '''""' '^""demnation to myself-I foulid It first and have observed it most frequently, in myself I credit anywhere, except so far as is necessary, when I would show the source of the evil. ^ anrM »^'^'" T''!! ""'"^ '"'1"''"^ '° ^'^"'"^ beauties in Greek on, ^nTfo^nf """'''"? ^''^^^^^^ '• R-J, substantial ones, not found in our own language • 2. Such as exist m our own and which we might fa'r more perfectj, a/we ^ easily, have comprehended in English, if they harbee^ pointed out to us : 3. Defects and deformities, or false beau" ties; as for instance, the frequent use of the third person singular for the third person plural in Greek verb .YvS tton of grammatical decency. This is peculiar to G?eek we are told, and there is a rule fi.r it. There is an "ex eeption ; for u. but no possible apology. But, whether good* bad, or indifferent, this i« the way in which many of us have been educated with a contempt for the beauties^of Englth; and If we ever obtain a relish for them, it is only by the in edtair "" ""' "" """ '"•"'^^ '^'^^'''"^ "^' h'al'er o" I was speaking of German. Like every lan-ruaee it has us peculiarities when compared with another -but it be m some. It ,s unjust and injurious to admire its excel, ences and overlook those of English; but it is ridicuTou; resor to m our own tongue, for use or embellishment in our d.seourse. But examples are most to our purpose the P?. h Vi."'"'^''^'" «f ^"'^'^^^ combinations; so is the English. They may take a verb, liken gehe„, t^ go. I 216 THE 8PRIN08. was toUl, and by prefixing their •"RWy-e-nr'-'V'' /'«" nosiiions, Vi.ry its meaning to a great degree. And so ?eft X dolie, and cnltivated is this tongue, that " slmdes of ni^ning" may he conveyed from mind to mn.d, as u were, ° wS no oneean conceive who is unaeqnainted wuh tins J perfect vehicle of thought!" Now, ihe very expres- sion of ch a prepostevons senti.nent (so n,suhn,g, .f . were not too rii do not be- said he ; " but 1 belong to the grandfathers come to England that was " "True," said , or Centurion Vado ; and when ed your name, sir." " Just so," regiment — let me introduce you tenant-colonel Pervade. I have nd file mail who is not of the said I, " did not your Roman an- s name with a W?" "That," en told, hut I have suspected it. said about him, and have felt or though he and many of his e Cajsars, he emigrated to a bar- 3 I have found, one of his sons eve this is the only one who ever le and the W. The others, who into Roman families. However, s of heraldry: Johnson's, and Sergeant Wade will be jood. THE ENGLISH, A TOLERABLE LANOt'AGK. 217 if we have shoal water to cross; and Corporal Outwade is better than he." But the German language is said to admit of other combi- nations, with peculiar ease and force, (for I cannot give a longer report of this grand review of our numerous and effective troops— our great army of Vernacuhirs). And cannot we do so too? Indeed, can we get along without the use of the same grammatical join-hand ?~l.Jc.,'e signum ! How ,8 this y,ovAjotn.hand made? Why, juM as the re- fined and elegant German makes its own word for ^love-^ hand-sc luh (hand-shoe !) O, the inimitable splendours of the subhmated foreign tongues. Hand-schuh ! It is true we cannot say that in English iov glove, but we may use hand-saw hand-pump, hand-blow, hand-clolh, and many other combmations we find convenient, beside making it a verb, and changing it into handle (as a noun, an active an.t passive verb), nito right and left-hand, each of which al«o may become an active or passive verb, if we please, or may be used after a preposition, or as an adjective: as on the right-hand —near the left-hand corner, &c. &c. I have, perhaps, said too much on this subject; but I .hTr r"' '"/• "'""** .'" ''"^""S our language tlUnated, hat I could mi forego this opportunity to repel, resist, anU throw back a little upon the aggressors. And who can utter a sentence m English without admiring the rich compound structure of the language, or, perhaps, not less extensive and various than any other civilized tongue in this sort of combmations, when we include the Latin branches ? How wonderful is the range afforded us in conversation antl writing; and how adapted to every purpose the familiar, brief, forcible, and honest Saxon words, ever sWhw readiest passage to a gush of feeling, whether raided by a witty con, ceit, swelled by joy, or melted by sorrow. This is a Ian, f uage by itself, and yet but half what we possess. There is the Latin, more smooth and soft, with words of greater length and sweeter harmony, possessing also a plan of com- binations in some respects different, and affording opportu.ii. Ues for clear, though distant allusions, and derivation* which point back to a refiaed source in a classic and pol.. 19» * ^ 218 TUB SPRINCiH. ishcd !.«c. Then turning to (ireck : how mnny useful and cEnMvords do we count, which stand forward rn the pano- p V of Homer's heroes, and with voices that remmd us by t m ° of the winged and the honeyed ae. t- nts ol anc.enl t.mes a" well us of the bru/.en-throated trumpets wh.eh sounded bofore Ilium. How do these noble languages, like two ler- S onr native tongue! Think of the ime, sonorous "^ ations which f.x their gol.len a.ui dia.nond t.ps on the „ lest stanzas of our great heroic poets, iud engra^e them ly o.t our hearts. Ken.embcr the abundant supply I e .xes with which we can grasp every verb m the an- uage; and, as if with the hand on the plough, or a gen le S'of the courser's rein, or the richer than s. ken lie whi.lt draws the .carrier pigeon home, we can guide them where wc will : — «' On earth, in air, and under ground." CHAPTER XXVIH. Thoughts on Foreign Travcl-Dr Sweet, the natural Bone-setter- •^ Retiring Travellers. How rapid is the mind, and how rapid indeed is the tonauc, although it has passed into a common remark, that he latter can never pretend to race wUh the former. I ar a pleasant morning spent in conversation with a friend who has just lauded from an European tour, has taken me n fancy over so much ground, revived the memory of so many past scenes, and enriched me with so many new ideas. Tat it seems as if time had been quadrupled m duration. Surely travel is an enriching, an ennobling, an exalting, as well as a delightful employment, when properly used; and my friend, I am convinced, haa been successful above most s h V e ti is V( in a( th ar on of IINOS. Ireck : how mnny useful and icli staml forv.mi in Uie pano- ih voices thai remind us by leyed im t-nls of anfienl times, atcd trumpets wliich sounded noble hm^uajres, like two fer- ^le pure and lofty fotmtain, Think of the fnie, sonorous jlden and diamond tips on the croii; poets, md engrave them ember the abundant supply of grasp t'very verb in the lan- and on tin; plougli, or a gentle or the riehcr than silken tie on home, we can guide them and under ground," 5R XXVIII. )r. Sweet, the natural Bone-setter — r Travellers. , and how rapid indeed is the ised into a common remark, that i to race with the former. Part nt in conversation with a friend m European tour, has taken me )und, revived the memory of so ched me with so many new ideas, lad been quadrupled in duration, ing, an ennobling, an exalting, as yrment, when properly used ; and , has beeu successful above most PIETV AND FOREIGN TRAVEI,. 219 him i;;.i;:r;"f '"^ ;'T ■''"' "'^ °f '"^ opportunities. I .„w /'arc to :i heitf.. ..1 , I P ' passage, a thorough- cnne u :';;;; "!^ J'!'' ;:'^*"^>— -•-'' ."ay L ^:":s;'s::-j::; -" ^--^ ' -.^■; t her views and reflecl , amonl .h ^" ^""""''^'"'^ '^"^ we should fin I r ? '^^ monuments of antiquity, we snould find that mere antiquarian knowledge has not equal power to render interestintr the dust of nl«? fotis, or to enlighten the gloom o'f itay ^ '''' ^"''"''•'• Among the numerous visiters to Italy who sneak n„r that they may become more useful to the world 1} of the past leading to contemplation, and such^ Cof 220 THE SPRINGS. ignorant and trifling minds devoted .0 the pre-n^^-^in. tercsling do such individuals appear. Wluiever ^n'-'J »8 ♦ Their iun.es. or the n.ofves ^'^ 'he. journe hey h e alikfl in most important respects. 1 hey regaru » ih..v discriminaie bHween the right and tht w'W'g »» te en ov nn s whi.h are offered to them, and der.ve real sevc but draw lesions from former generations to exalt or t« purify their own thoughts and actions to-day. A young nS in Italy, who thus pursues the great objects of l«3 U r . n c u uer obstacles and discouragements, and o 'to difficulties wh.eh require ^^^^'^^r^^St removed. Whoever .Urm. Ihe ChnsUan » f"''"'^™' L °elf-.uspWo», .e..J. .0 exhibit n,or. ««■■"'?, "".^^^^'^J^ ^^'J^olll r^icy .h..efore b/»in •» Oi.p|«y *- a^„«« hv a surface of superior brightHcss, and under suciv iTmLcJr real rel.giSn assumes a peculiar ..obleness oles " sa"d my friend, " a new tone of manrvers and conve " En. I -i received among persons '^'^customed to eU- ouetie with the greatest frankness and famd.anty ; and had Tver -led l strongly the force of a favount. expres- sion of the New Testament: 'Where the spirit of God is, here s liberty.' I found access not merely to thetr lodg- iSga and their'acquaintance, but to their hearts. And ih. a: a{ m hi Pl di H'l pa an m( dif •RINGS. evoled to the present, how in- appear. Wluiever their age, es of their journey, they are spects. They regard things iro, not as they pretend to be ; ^ right and the wrong use ol ered to them, and der«ve real •led by the crowd, whde they asonablc expectations founded .ihers. They do not of course f times that are past, because )f most consequence to them- m former generations to exalt ,U and actions to-day. A young pursues the great objects of his les and discouragements, and to . require great decision, resolu- rapidly ripen his heart and his id more experienced, while sur- Italy presents, feel that there less and care over their feelings, 18 are greatly increased; while ian society are at the same tune B the Christian's fear, or awakena ■xhibit more clearly his Christian removes the tarnish from such is formed, polishes pure gold. f therefore begin to display them- erior brightness, and under such n assumes a peculiar nobleness ind demeanour. ele of religious travellers at IN a. new tone of manners and conver- nong persons accustomed to eti- ankness and familiarity; and had y the force of a favourite expres- »nt : ' Where the spirit of God is, d access not merely to their lodg- ^ce, but to their hearts. And lh« riKTY AND FOREIGN THAVEl. 221 /ormalities of fashionable intercourse, with all the fhlsehood of M I .,lwu.ss, l,...nR d.scar.le,i. it was delighiful ,o ohs.-rve ^. Lr*; .r ;; r"'""" i" •*"""''-'«'■. -hlle ,i,e heart •ouMil full exiTcise („r us allections. Loss swave.l tlv.n other travc.ll..r.s in matters of taste, hv c r, „t I.,' l" <.p.-n.ofHeenesandol,jects in nature a^dt;!:;'^^^ ^■^I'.v "...re just, iKTaus,. mn. ,n.!..,,..n.lent ; while the ir v'vul. In relation to men, hIho, li.ev had gen. rally some- th.n^ n,:w and valuable to co.nnmni.v.,,. : lor luv L Zn^ '•"'■"""" ' reeled after what has n.erir. or to .1 "; t ->ns on whont .hey mi.lu .-onfer benefits, .1. y ere oSe oun.I ,., have ol.,s..rve.l ..l.araefers .hi.l ...her .si; p s th ,r r '"" ; ";"^""' "'■" """'•■ ^^'" "•"--»'" -^^^^ e r. rt= nf^ ^^""" '" ^ ••""'>• ^■■'"•' ""'' "■'""' «'"'l' m U r '"'"' r,!r^y'^ ^-J--t them and to ex- tiaim, — Wu huy the truth.'" What a contrast, what a delightful contrast it seems after polto oi losihpo shake his l.o.v of eopper.s at you, to elose '0 day with a .-irde of Christian friol/ds, wh.. U -Vr of Uu, purest love con.u,n,.s all memory of dillLre c^i, srct and^eountry, among those who possess one faith aid one ThedilTeren. ways in which persons of oxalted character . re afTectecl hy fore,fr„ travel are oft.-n various, hut almos alw ys nnporlant. ()„., receives an impression, from the majesty of so.m, rum. of ,he transitory nalure of I fe ; while .s companion ,s reproved by it for the li.tio he has ac'oit I hshe, . Sonie have made the people, whom they have seen graded to the dust, the subjects of their daily prayers AWule others have been filled wi.h the idea thft Amerca possesses inealcnlable advantages for establishing a name and a praise in the earth. One will ever after retird i^ more important light all the means by which inteKence is J'ffused, and fix much of hi, attention for the rem JnSer of I I % t a— THB SPRINO*. his life on the mind, and heart, of the young, «"J »»>« ^Jj; the example., and school, by which they arc lo be cilu caJ w le to another will afterward .eem ever pre.ent hte powerful n.otive. to action, which are -J';; X;^ . contemplation of heathen magmlicencc an.ong ' '""«; ^ ing splendour with which a degenerate luHle endeavour, to '' Nmlung i. pleasanter than to meet with a pcr.on of true pieVy who ha. returned from a foreign tour, with Huch .m- Son a. we mu«t expect them to bring hon.e. when the. Lcumstance« have been favourable "---'"f.^^/^.J.^ norance of foreign languages and '"''l^' '*' ^.Z' f,;, ,'^;,t ling.or infirm hcahh.may prevent then.; b.l.fc,(—^ ha'; been favourable, you ,nay nee a gratifying ch nge them, and every thing they can control around. One .ucli nerron w 11 .pL the conver.alion of a whole neighbour- Too UnJ <•-«'-" •""' '»"■ '"'"'^ oiUMsmohcUe, channel.. Hi. library i. placed on a new foo u.g, he re- v^^w and improves some of his old opinions, he looks upon things about him with new eye., for even trivial a la.r. r mind him of great duties heretofore underrated. 1 lie trav- Ser, p"haps, who passe, the residence of .uch a m.n, eve years^fter hii death, admires some m.uiuuo o puSc benefit which owes it. origin to his piety and Ins '° Manrpev-ns have probably seen in the newspaper, ad- verlisements of " Dr. Swect,-Nalural Hone-scltcr. 1 s Tt everybody who has met him, or any ..f hi. remarkable Jamily Hoi many there are of the name, or how many Tre have been famed for peculiar skill in anatomy, I have not be i able to ascertain, because there is uncertainty am some Xcrepaney among the family traditions. One account I hTve leard, says, that the ancestor of the American Sweets la a lebVated u.geon to the king, regularly bred to the Jrofession in England', but disaffected on some ae^urU^n I V oluntary exile to the colonies, who chose one o the ..la«d« in Providence Kiver, in Rhode-I.land, for ^^'^.''bode. There, devoting himself to the education of hi. ^h.^ren. he taugh them the principles of his own science, which they after- d J; a a irRINOS. rti of tlie young, ami the books, by which ihey arc lo be cdu- II aflerwanl weein ever prescnl (•lion, which are exriied by the agiiiliocnce among the iinniean- tlegenerale taste endeavours to n to meet with a person of truo •ni a f»>reign lour, with Hueh irn- ; them to bring home, when their ^ourable for receiving tliem. Ig- ;es and habits, loo rapid travel- event them; h\d if circumstances may see a gratifying change m can control iiround. One sucli 'ersalion of a wiiolc neighbour- the minds of hundreds into better phiced on a new fooling, he re- of his old opinions, he looks upon eyes, for even trivial atlairs re- eretofore underrated. The trav- 3 the residence of such a man, ih, admires some insiiluiion for I its origin to his piety and his ,bably seen in the newspapers ad- pet,— Natural Honc-srlter." It is ct him, or any of his remarkable J are of the name, or how many : peculiar skill in anatomy, I have I, because there is uncertainly and ihe family traditions. One account ,c ancestor of ihe American Sweets I to the king, regularly bred to the It disaffected on some account, and lonies, who chose one of the islands hode-Island, for his abode. There, ducation of his children, he taught ^is own science, which they after- A NATI7IAL BONB-«ETTXR. 933 war(l« made a study l)y means of his library. From this beginning, the family arc said to have had a stronif propen- "ity to anatomy; and for sev.ral pencralions, if we mJBht rretiit report, individuals of bo,|, s.-xes have often amused IhemsHvc. ,„ ehiMhood with .lislocating the joints of kittens and .-hickens, an.l setting them again; and more humanely, in mature hie, while engage.l i„ tbe labours of the field or workshop, by redu.-inir ,lispla.-ed bones to their sockets for nil es around, an.l for ..riees so low that the mere mention 01 them has olteii excited the patient's lauKliler. The pro- ducl.on o( this latt.r symptom is perhaps the most extra- ordinary fact relating to their practice, and gives them a double claim to their surname. 'i'lie individual of this family whom I met with this sea- «on, was of a different branch, Ld had only the f low ,,; account to g.ve of bi.s history. " The SwcCs. I believe^S Its a natural gil>, for wise purposes bestowed, and should be employed with a i.rnper sense of .lei„.n.lance. My father was a physie.an, and the first surgical operation I ever at- tempted was at fourteen years of age, when I re.luced a dislocated thumb for a patient who applied for aid during the absence o( my lather. After this I felt somewhat bold and made a number of successful experiments, siudyinj such scenl.tie book, as I could obtain. I believe the skil! 1 liave IS in a great nicasuro a natural gift, and that I am accoimta le for the use of it. I have set'a good my poo^ people's bones for nothing ; but I calculate fo make tlie ridi pay lor it, though not very exorbitantly." "Well, doctor," said a man who recognised him, "how do you find ihem at the South ? You've been to the South lately, haven't you ?" " " Why, yes, I was down into the State of New-.Jer3ev and Z ^'''''"'' -^"'"'^ =— '^y' --^ ?-'' "'»ny lame hips,' Yo'rk ?""' '"'' ^°" ^"' '"'""^ '^'' '''"'"'" ''""''" '" ^e^^- " Yes, 1 find, wherever I go the second time, that they ect ne^y bones out about as fast as I put 'em in, so as to keep 224 THB SPRINGS. me to work. But I like it well enough as long as the floors don't break down. When I was at Danbury, m Connecti- cut, they'd got wind of my coming, and collected all the suflerers they could find in the neighbourhood mto one room. It was up stairs, over a hatter's shop; about hfty men were assembled there together, lull halt of them, as was said, being patients, and the rest spectators. Ihc doctors had come to see me work ; for they didn't beheve I could do any thing or knew any thing. Well, as there was a good deal of work to be done, and no tnne to spare, 1 ad- vanced to a man in the corner that had h.s shoulder out and had been pronounced in.-urable. 1 took hold on i and set it, and told him to put on his hat, which he did ; and this elated him so much that he began to whirl h.s arm round for joy, and to show how well he felt, riglit before the doctors and all, when I began to feel the floor sway avvay under me, and down we all went into a heap, maimed ones and all I slid and fell, as we reckoned afterward, about twenty- seven foot, and got up among the rest in '-he hatter s shop. What was wonderful about it was, that though the floor set- tied down principally at one corner, while the opposite one didn't give way, it held together, and so kept us out of the hatter's kettles, which were full of hot water ; and though a large square cast-iron stove fell down among us, it didn t hurt anybody. There were only three or four bones put out by the accident; and when I had set these and the old ones, hips, shoulders, elbows, and all, I had to set ofl for another town, where I had an engagement to do more work of the like nature. They had a proper laugh at the doctors at Danbury, telling them they had set the trap to kill me ; but I told them that if they had known the danger, they would not have put their own lieads into it." There is a class of single gentlemen found among the great swarms of travellers which every year pass over our country, who seem to be ever in search of solitude and tranauiUity, as much as others are for crowds and tumults; and who, although they are often borne along by the cur- rent, actually enjoy many hours of loneliness. Ihey arc generally individuals who have had more than common ex- IPRINOS. ill enough as long as the floors was at Dapbury, in Connecti- coming, and collected all the I the Dftiglibourhood into one er a hatter's shop; about fifty together, lull half of them, as md the rest spectators. The work ; for they didn't believe I any thing. Well, as there was ane, and no time to spare, I ad- orner that had his shoulder out, icurable. 1 took hold on it and his hat, which he did ; and this le began to whirl his arm round II he felt, riglit before the doctors feel the floor sway away under ; into a heap, maimed ones and 3ckoned afterward, about twenty- ng the rest in the hatter's shop. it was, tliat though the floor set- le corner, while the opposite one [cther, and so kept us out of the ''. full of hot water ; and though a e fell down among us, it didn't re only three or four bones put when I had set these and tlie old ws, and all, I had to set ofl" for an engagement to do more work had a proper laugh at the doctors they had set the trap to kill me ; ;hey had known the danger, they )wn lieads into it." igle gentlemen found among the s which every year pass over our 3 ever in search of solitude and thers are for crowds and tuniults ; ,re often borne along by the cur- y hours of loneliness. They arc I have had more than common ex- MODESt TRAVELIERS. 825 r-emnce m the world, and yet through the influence of good edueauon or good early examples, have a taste that sLks sometlwng superior to its follies. Their previous life has ren- Po::' tm t"f"'"' r'r ^""""^ tlfelr tempi; a^d dis- posed them to shun rather than condemn the society thev tir rrr / ^"^''V"' '"^'-^ '' '^^ solitude whK tires to us chamber, and when it has shut the door re- a^wil I, n ""'r''" ' '"'*'y '•"" "'"«"g »he shady rocks and wilds or meditatmg ,„ the fields at eventide. and friendly. He and his anglers were drawn from persons men to. t'r, . '' "'' f"^'*"^ '^^^ «^^^'-" '« '^e^njoy- ment of sohtude, or rather the society of nature • and the fishnj-rod is only an apology for stay^ig from home by h day or the week. We are to blame for renderinir field- sports in some measure necessary to many pereZof n- elhg.n,ce taste and leisure. We ought mi to reproach them for being found in solitary scenes, even though ly MtoTuUhV:;? ^"" " iishnig-tackle. As it is not iZ lui to kill the inferior animals for sport, but as it is perfectly proper and indeed useful to frequent our wild scenes a J to enjoy the beauties of nature we ought to firS the fairest and finest with things necessary to" comfor "nd con ve nence. and rather approve than despise those who sdect hem for reading or meditation. To no unknown inLidua m Italy do I feel more obliged, than to him who construct^ a rustic seat on the tall rocks opposite the fallH Sni thatclied It with boughs and cushioned it witJi lives .Td no example should I sooner recommend to the friend of' .hit class of travellers of which I am speaking. Their choice of the retreats of the forest and shore, L I rem rked s owing to their love for the spots where the fish and .he birds resort, and not to the love of slaughter, although the These tasteful travellers maybe distinguished from the common herd by an experienced eye. They kee ,? as i^ 20 2t6 THE 9PHINOS. were, along the green margin of the road, xvh.le they pur- Tue 18 general course; tl.ey wander a hule up the cool TaUey u^nd streams that open to the nght and left, and the Ihade of the trees and the dashing of water are for them. W^le ot£s, perhaps, of their own party, a- compi™^^^ of coarse food and hard couches, their appetites .ire sharp- enedTy exercise, or they are enjoyu,g relreshmg slun.bers " l^r: S; in a house when the family returned from their annual tour; and from their conversation found, that wh e r,>me of the individuals brought back only records of wasted tTme, and the observations of the most common minr-xs barren as the beaten roads they had passed over Shers h^d cLe home with a store of -oll^et.-^^^^^^^^^ miffht serve, lii^e a hortus siccus, or a well-hUed sketch- Took ?or the gratification of themselves and the.r fnends for a year to come, and the value of which might last for a " t maTorust brought up unfit for the worK' we live in thaTa great part of society, in their pursuit of happmess, "e^m to sfer^lUfe either in Peeking for the know^^e Oiey ought to have imbibed in youth, or amid the fnvolit.es or °he vices which are its only substitutes. This appears to he r general picture of society among us. We do not strongly realize the fact unless we travel ; and then we find our own mindsand those of our companions betraying at every step some strong evidence of deficiency. I sat in an elegant SoTcar with a large company of travellers, several of w mtere ::^^^^^ to me. Why were we silent after a Tew mnarks on indifferent topics ? Because we were igno- ^nt When we had seated ourselves at the dinner-table, Cever, there was no lack of conversation or of cheerful- ness ad I presume the chief part of .he pleasure enjoyed Tyh. party Lt day was during the time devoted to eating Th . e we were ai home. Ah ! how much of the enjoyment of h..me then, wi,h the mass of P^^P'^'.^^/^.^e «?'us conn,..-ied wl,h a source not more exalted? Some of us Ld been curious to know some simple facts concernmg d.f- feret.t objects around, but either presumed on the ignorance tl RINGS. of the road, while they pur- ' wander a little up the cool I to the right and left, and the shing of water are for them, r own party, are complaining hes, their appetites are sharp- ! enjoying refreshing slumbers when the family returned from their conversation found, that 1 brought back only records of vations of the most common en roads they had passed over, a store of recollections, which siccus, or a well-filled sketch- f themselves and their friends value of which might last for a It up unfit for the work' we live ly, in their pursuit of happiness, seeking for the knowledge they yroutli, or amid the frivolities or r substitutes. This appears to ociety among us. We do not ess we travel ; and then we find ur companions betraying at every f deficiency. I sat in an elegant ompany of travellers, several of e. Why were we silent after a topics ? Because we were igno- ed ourselves at the dinner-table, V of conversation or of chcerful- hief part of the pleasure enjoyed Juring the time devoted to eating. Ah ! how much of the enjoyment iss of people, are we to (ear, is not more exalted \ Some of us some simple facts concerning dif- eilher presumed on the ignorance PAGAN EDUCATION. 227 Of our companions, or feared to expose our own by makin* them subjects of conversation. a„-i • , y '"**'"g as trulvtravplllr ! u ' '*"^'»^''J°gge(l on in silence, as truly travellers as the horses which drew us alons and 'Joing what only fashion saves from ridicule tJ^tL coursmg over the country without definite obje /and with.* out the least chance of intellectual improvement. On reach- Sdir "v7 T^T'''' !''"^ ^ ""-'' •^''•"'"*"«J to avoid .)Kld.ng dny of them farewell: but I found they had anpa- ounce .It travelhng as any of tiiem. des?ed to'knortht"^''' '" "^ '-•''"'"""'^' "'"»' ^ «« """^h uesireu 10 know, the names, nature, and uses of the trees nL! ff produced them, or a little of the princi- vl^n Sr"? ^° ,""''-«'«"'• tf.e construction, and'exc . du^r o . i'"''™"'^' "■■ ^""" "•'■"••"'«d "f tl'e history, pro, manner as to feel an mterest in them ; or had anv of mv on 7at rr? " 'r^'"'' ^^'''^ "•'^'--1« (oZlrZ of Pi asire 'nor h" "T '''' '""'"'^^ "'' P^'" '^'^^^ '^an Idem S" '"^ '"""^ «^^ -"- "^ - •»-" Belf- CHAPTER XXIX. ^ in £plle"e?!sou?r ''r ? " ^''"«""" I-nd-Improvement. Proper E8tima^„rfP '"'f'PV't" Hal.iis ir. ourCountry- cal R080U «siiveii!:„ '^"/'■'''i'T""' »'^" Moral and PhL. painful mamerof ?h. r * ' "'" '"'"« '""'"'W '» « I- lui manner of the pwvemons praclued in my own mIu- 229 THE SPBtNOS. cation. Truly I was led by a thorny, a crooked, and a da«^ gerous way! Why I did not tiHrn back, p...d run out of tha. mud road, I can hardly tell. I remember I was strongly tempted, when I found some of my favourite companions de- serting it one after another, and saw the grassy walks of agriculture, and the sparkling paths of ''»«"'«''«/°™J- times offering strong attractions, h .s high t.me that we should realize that certain sorts of knowledge may pervert the heart while they fill the head. Look at «''«^«Y;/«;;;- «mple, and remember, that not we, but some of Ke worst men of heathen times are in fact, at ih.s moment, teaching our children their own views of past events, '" our ow" schools and under our own eyes. Do we not put the classi- cal writers in the place of schoolmasters and P'^^^n*^' »"^ make the young admire what they commend And whose views do the ancient writers maintain? All of them the Tiews of heathenism; and not a few of them are mere echoes of the selfish or profligate rulers ;vlm patromsec them to secure their praise, and dictated what they should withhold, what record, and what pervert. 0»g'>t nor^uc pernicious influences at least to be ,'^"""t.*'"'^»f J. ^^f' not the teacher who enlarges on Uie beauties of \irgil an.l Giesar, Ovid and Horace, to condemn the principles and motives they so often applaiul. and --^^ f'yj;;;';^";^ ideas which the pupil must otherwise imbibe T Some uew or other is to be taken of history by every one who reads. There is a right and there is a wrong view, and they are totally inconsistent with each other. The splendours of Greek and Roman heroes long absorbed my mind ; and for years I had no tasts for the view of history given by the Scriptures. The superintending power of the Creator was not present to my mind when, I read of Juno and Jupiter ,he Fates and Fortune. It has cost me long and violent struggles to divest mvsclf of the taste, as well as of some of the views, which I imbibed from my education at a gram- mar-school and college. , , • , But now, how sublime as well as how lovely is the aspect which history presents ! Miserable, undefined Fortuiie has ^ei» banished, and pains my heart i»o longer with the gloomy PBINOS. thorny, a crooked, and a dajw , twrn back, and run out of that I remember I was strongly »f my favourite companions de- •, and saw the grassy walks iling paths of business some- ions, h is high time that we )rts of knowledge may pervert lead. Look at history, for ex- not we, but some of the worst 1 fact, at this moment, leaclung ws of past events, in our own eyes. Do we not put the classi- ;choolma8ters and parents, and It they commend ? And whose s maintain 1 All of them the not a few of them are mere rofligate rulers who patronised , and dictated what they should what pervert. Ought not such ist to be counteracted ? Ought ;s OB tlie beauties of Virgil and to condemn the principles and )laud, and correct the erroneous , otherwise imbibe T Some view iiistory by every one who reads. le is A wrong view, and they are ach other. The splendours of long absorbed my mind ; and for the view of history given by the ending power of the Creator was lien, I read of Juno and Jupiter, [t has cost me long and violent of the taste, as well as of some 3ed from my education at a gram- is well as how lovely is the aspect Miserable, undefined Fortune has ly heart no longer with the gloomy TEMPER ANTE. S80 whose inif-n^sts -ir,. •.. ; d.-simics of „ an, and „o„r:rr, ;:!;:::;-;'''•>■ -'--p-ta^es; blood. j„s. a,„i ,i..i„h 1 2Zs ; '^"""■"•: .'•""<■•' i» wiihoul TvmmUMr •, „.,,',,', " ''"'•'••••". "t least r,,, ' "»» '" <<>Mtr()l|iiiir ourselves. in "'! n::rji;;:;.':r r, '''■'■'',''" "» ""«"" oi me war left the country m an immoral coa- 20* '(30' THE srr.iscs. iliiion Tl.e .lisbaiulii.;,' <.f tl>c army converted our villages . . ;t uuo ranrp. so f;.v as the l.a!.it« of men ^v..re con- ::l::;:5;ln.l J vicious practiee«.>f«ol.lierseo-c,^^^^^^^^ ^vill, tl.e desultory employment ol le.su!. time wluelu. n.Uu :;„y produced l.y a long period of war and P"l ";-;-' ; stamped a low character upon so.-icty through a great pa t Seountry. Publi.- calamities had puned lat; jn a thou- sand instances, to private fortunes; and many ol those ptr- bI s 1 o mi.iu <.lherwise have possessed the means ol oh- a^ ,g u. educatbn, were cut olVlVonr it by poverty, or by th p^mi^ed .leprcciation of learning in the pubhc estnnat.on. Spivder. Layonets, soldiers, and n.ilitary skd wc.. b- icets of praise and admiration; and as taste and h calurc iould not purchase these, they were but hghily esteenu=d^ O course, peace found the country aboundn.g nr many young Tu d empt^ heads, and, what was worse, wuh morals corru beyond^eir years. li was the tendency of such a s ate of Sgs to honour the tavern and to break up the famdy e - . .^and in many a town and village the lornrer was he t t resort of fathers and sons, while the mothers were too f,fien left to solitary regret and tears among the broken ? gm n s of the latter. Who does not remember some- dnrof such a state of society? Who, at least, has no nerccived traces of it in the Bacehanahan stor.cs, and Urc tales of village wit, whose narration to a later generat.on haVofrerved'to depict the tavern in colours and asso- dations too attractive to the clnldrcn of a reformed or so- bered father? To the discredit of a state of society now Swearing on, of fashion, a large part of our trad.l.onary natralives and humour, and sketches of local biography, arc Tingled with the oaths and intoxication of the mn, or the Ire dangerous language and examples of fasluonable dinner-parties and drinking bouts m c.ty life. I know a large town, now distmguished for its orderly as well as intelligeiU and refined society, in wiuc.ii, forty years n^o, or even less, social evening parties among parents oJ both sexes, were unknown ; and where a father of a Himily, who set the example of assisting to entertain the female vLiters of his wife, had to bear the brunt of all the tavern- I ic anny coiivciled our villages thu liiiliits of men were con. licps of siiltliers co-opeiaim;; t of Ifisu! u limf, wliifli is ""'iln- k1 oI' war and public calaniilics, in society tliioii(fli a great part ilies liad proved latal, ni a tliou- innes ; and many of those per- ave i»nssessed tlie means of ob- t ofl'from it by poverty, or by tlic ^rnin|T in tlie public estimation, ■rs, and military skdl were ob- on ; and as taste and literature liey were but lightly esteemed. )untry abounding in many young was worse, with morals corrupt 1 the tendency of such a slate of and to break up the family cir- and village llie former was tiic ons, wiiile tlie mothers were too L and tears among the broken tVho does not remember somc- ociety? Who, at least, has not tl\e 'Bacchanalian stories, and •se narration to a later generation the tavern in colours and asso- le eliildrcn of a reformed or so- srcdit of a state of society now , a large part of our traditionary 1 sketches of local biography, are id intoxication of tlie inn, or the e and exampli^s of fashionable r bouts in city life. \\y distinguished for its orderly as ned society, in wiiicii, forty years ivening parties among parents of I ; and where a father of a family, assisting to entertain the female ( bear the brunt of all the tavern- ~^ n.KASlnfisoFCAXAX, TliAVfT.MV,,. 231 liauniors of the dIip.. •!,.,. ; <• u , L-i .nil lu K I r ' ; z T^°"' '""""""•■ s»-i> » '-;.o.,,.,j,;;:^,r£i::st/^'i,i:;;i;;- *' But mv io I «i . P™"°"'»'ed this exclamation— judge of them ?- And ulio is not l?^; I'^^^^T' "' ^'' '« '" roreu,^" polisli, in his Z^^^^t'^^^'^'^'t^r degenerate, luxurious iiabits ' Thn hr^r , , r°^'^^' full of travellers vet T nl ^n i ! f' ^ ^"'*' ^''^^ "'^s fw.ostparto Te'dav .ndl r "'''"'i'' "'^ 'y^' '« «''« Th, luv,; . . • ' ^y ^""^^ '" 'he purest air. 232 CANAL EXCURSION. nun.pral.le columns of somn extensive temple wno f.u h- X rdKH-,e.l lu.low, wlule their thirk .•an..s,y of I"!-.- al o ' ,;,Hr.Hl repeuUHl appar.^.tly fron. an .nm.en^e .le,.tl«. «0 was ll.e .Mirror over wl.irh .Ley Imn^. Why. 1 asked .. f is travUin.' o,. .mr .'a.MU n,„si.lere»l so wear.s...ne L . l.f i.aere.t r ,„re are nohle prod..e,.o,.. o ...re mul.i,,lie.l ar«..n,l, silenee a..d .ol,t...le ..... ...u.^he .V the rattli.., of wl.e.ls, a,..l perl,..ned a.r --'"';-' risi..ir (iiust. ()..r ea.ials ofien .i,..-..' y""' ''"nJ« 'here— plairuv luck as ever anybody had !" I"»8"y iuck " You a notion of turning in, captain ?" " VVhat say ?" ° ' »- " Notion of turnin' in ?" " No, not yet." ;; VVcIl, I. hi„k I shall have to pretty soon." Twemv- fon'V ^^.'r*''^'" '" ^''^ '^''^^f^^^Y here! ^^ wenty .-four, ten and four is fourteen, and six is twenty, " Play up all round !" " How's that ?" " O, if I could have got ten then I" " We're entitled to the deal '" " Ten ! ha, ha !" ;;Cut 'em again-go ahead-split 'em-that's right." Wow, :f I can get an ace— fourteen." * <»ive us one apiece." " (iive me a couple apiece." ban'k""" '"'-''''' ''' ^-~P'«y "P~that helps the ;; njope luek won't go against me all the time." Who s got a good hand ? Them that ha'n't, say so " I^'!,hteen, nmeteen, play twenty." ' ^ ""• I old on-hoM on-what have you got now »" "O'lve me a fish." gomow. ^ i' _.- SM WIIITKIIALl.. "Stop. Stop, Stop!" •' Tliiit'a hKht, Hir, a small one. " Hero -lis V'«"> -»'"»•-'''" ' ^'"" '" ''"'^ • •'(Jivn UH ii tish." " My next di-al." " There's your two finli." " I commence to deal there." •' 'rum 'em right over." » We are three, sir." " Take 'em — ihal'a vif^hl." "Yes." " What do you want 1" " One." " l- levolutioiuiry Triidilion— An Oracle ol ^keenesborough, which is in this ly mind willi tlie career of a wild, joined the American army at the lition, by the persuasion of an aci- mce received a skcicli of his niih- was obtained for Tom, but he had ercise of it, when his friend the ,mp at Skeeuebborough, where in nROtANT T0». Wf ill": ?""'' ^[^ ^'P^iM to a private .entry. By his cxc cau loncd him aKauut getting into any quarrel with th« Thfn : « ^^ «PP^-'"'"''«'J- Hut this wa« nil in vain, rhenex afternoon new. came tha. Tom was in the ^Zl ouse. »„ inqu.ry. he learned (hat he had flowed the .ol- d rn „„,, cleared them out of the tent, and tCt^,ed .o kdl the major Tom had sent for the colonel to see him but th.s he refused, though he felt bound, out of relrd^o his fannly. to exert himself in his behalf. ^ ArnoM T''^''"' T,l^'" '^"'"'^ °"' ''" »he lake, under Arnold to oppose the Hritish ; and with great exertions the Ihol I .'?""? """"•'"'*"''''•«" condition that he Sud^to bf*^ r f P™P°«"'°"' "pressing the warmest gru itule to his friend, to whom he attributed his escape: and solemnly swore to serve him whenever he eonld. ve,^ to tif f.^'' '/'V ^''^""8^ '^' «^°'«"«' believed him n this oTelt'?''' f '"'""P'^' ^^ P"''"'' '"•P"'^" -'-" ™ of gratituie "^ P'"™'""' '» ^' ^^' «"»eeptible intL^lfuKr''''"^''"'"'/^''''' as sergeant of marines, ^.llh! , «ff Crown Point, fought the English flag-vessel the ol ' Z"^ ^[''' ''8°"^- '^"'"' «' ''"g'h finding a the officers above h.m wounded, fought her himself, miti h.s galley was found to be in a sinking condition. One of our commanders came up, received him on board" gave him a onspicuous part the rest of the day. and honou ed h S w. I peculiar marks of approbation. Tom. however was S ?. "; "^^ ^'^P^'^"'"" wa« proposed to surprise Ballston then a frontier town, and Tom wL offered a large reward to join it. This he refused, alleging that it wa he residence of his lather; but partly, no doubt, because hi^ benefactor also lived there. Finding, however, that the expedition would proceed, he joined ft, that he mig e! fnend h.m; and performed important service in secret, to •1 ■I! m ' 238 LAKE OEOROI. which my informant conBidered himself indebted for liberty, if not for life. The details are interesting : but I cannot stay to write them now. The first glimpse I caught of Lake George satisfied me that my expectations would be almost equalled ; for I had heard it described in such glowing terms in my boyhood, that the conception I entertained of its beauties were un- doubtedly romantic and extravagant, as I had before had occasion to reflect. If the breadth of a lake be too great, or its shores too low, there must bo a want of bold features on the margin. A large level surface is sublime ; but we soon feel a want of variety. A more limited plain is often beautiful ; but it is necessarily insipid if alone ; and a sheet of water particularly requires contrasts to relieve the satiety which the mind feels in contemplating it. The Lake of Geneva would be greatly improved in beauty, if a few of the eminences which stand at the distance of several miles could be planted upon its very banks. Lake George lies in contact with the mountains, whose bases are washed by its pure waters, while its summits hasten to their terminations just above. I had inspected some manuscript military maps of the French war in this vicinity, so that I soon caught some of the zigzags of Mont- calm's lines of approach to Fort William Henry (which, alas ! is now an insignificant heap on the shore), and fixed on the thick grove on my left, which shades the grave of about one thousand of his men. On the right, swelling from the head of the lake, was the elevation crowned by Fort George, long in ruins, and in 1745 the scene of General Dieskau's defeat, before a breastwork of logs. Along the waste ground in the little valley this side, was perpetrated the massacre of the soldiers, women, and children from Fort William Henry, by Indians. The sky suddenly grew dark as I approached the pretty village of Caldwell, and a thunder-shower lassed just before us, obscuring for a few minutes the fields and dwellings ; and then passing slowly down the lake, whither it bore ofl" a brilliant rainbow on its bosom. The beauty of the scene, from my window, in the rear of the hotel, I would fain describe, especially as it ap- lelf indebted for liberty, tteresting : but I cannot ike George satisfied me ost equalled ; for I had terms in nny boyhood, f its beauties were un- t, as I had before had 1 of a lake be too great, ! a want of bold features ace is sublime ; but we are limited plain is often M if alone ; and a sheet asts to relieve the satiety lating it. The Lake of d in beauty, if a few of listance of several miles ks. th the mountains, whose Iters, while its summits above. I had inspected r the French war in this e of the zigzags of Mont- ; William Henry (which, on the shore), and fixed lich shades the grave of In the right, swelling from levation crowned by Fort r45 the scene of General work of logs. Along the this side, was perpetrated omen, and children from The sky suddenly grew rillage of Caldwell, and a e us, obscuring for a few and then passing slowly ' a brilliant rainbow on its -!, from my window, in the iscribe, especially as it ap- If 1' ii m - r "^ A PHILOLOaiST. 289 peared near aunset, when the broad and green slope to the margin of the clear water was striped with the long •hadows of trees and mountains, and the surface of the lake was calm, and the opposite ridge of French Mountain raised its immense curtain of foliage, as it were, perpendicularly to the clouds. In this place a very different excitement seems to affect the visiters from that which is felt at the Springs, where there is no scenery to draw off the thoughts from ourselves and each other. The conversation at table seemed im- proved, and the various parties had a variety of objects be- fore them for the day : walks, rides, and boat parties, to visit the forts or to make an excursion to Tea Isiond. One would hardly think that the house could be much visited in the winter season ; but I found some of the family speaking familiarly of Montreal and its inhabitants, who, I learned, often come down in parties in sleighs. I had several strolls along the shore on both sides of the lake near Ticonderoga, traced out the old French lines on which General Abercrombie's army made so ridiculous an attack in 1758, and climbed to the redoubts on Mount Inde- pendence. It is melancholy to renew the impressions which must have been made by the aspect of these hills and head- lands, these woods and waters, at night, when, after General St. Clair had ordered the evacuation of the fortress and the retreat of the troops, the sudden bursting out of a fire in a building at the foot of Mount Independence illuminated the scene, betrayed the motions of the Americans, and awakened the fire of their enemies. There is an exvonsive, wild, and mountainous region north and west from this spot, where there are hardly any inhabit- ants, except the beasts of the forests. I heard, in a log- house, some exciting tales told about deer-hunting ; and on a warm afternoon, I heard an old man talk in the following strain, as he was sitting in the sun, surrounded by several bantering farmers' sons : — " You are a stranger, sir, I presume, and perhaps don't know me nor my family. That's the way with the world : these boys that have grown up don't know but what thei? I (I. li i' f 340 LAKE CHAMFLAIir. father, were as respectable as m.ne. I've not don* "gj^ j that rra willing to allow. But I an t so bad a. B.11. He got to drinking too much a good many years ago, and learned to fiddle, and used to leave home »«'"«»7«/' ^ go off round to dances, and so on. But he had as good a wife as ever was. and he's reformed, and so am 1. 1 ve come across the lake to help at harvesting, and get some wool and carry back for the children to card up, and then we'll have it spun and made into somethmg warm for em next winter. These women-folks ihey are the masler-cnt- rs\rsuch things. They^lsit and card and ta k and aet a wonderful deal done. But education is a great thing, Ld we can't get it over there among the mountains where there an't nobody five miles back from the l»ke. Us a curious country there, there's so many ponds. »^erts Long Pond, and Square Pond, Goose Pond, and Crane Lake, and Paradox Pond, and Pyramid I'^^e, and- 4hat s all, I believe. Well, now there an't nobody but me that lives anywhere about here, that knows how these ponds got their names." „.,.., i „f .v,o "Well, do you know. Uncle Zeek?" asked one of the *"" » Whv, yes ; there's Long Pond and Square Pond, they were called so because of their shape ; and the wild geese go to Goose Pond ; and Crane Lake, the surveyors found a crane's nest on the bank. And then there', something very curious about Paradox Pond: the stream that the outle falls into is sometimes swelled by a thunder-shower that don't reach the pond, and then the water sets back through the outlet into it. So you see I know all about the history of that country." . „„„,„;„„ "But," said L"you have not informed us concernmg ^^"Ohfas^o'i that," said he, "I don't rightly know what that took its name from, without it was because they some- times catch suckers there very early m the season. " However," saiu he, "I was talking about my family. You must know that my grandfather came from England with Lord Howe. He had just fioished hw edueauou at I. I've not done right ; ,'t 80 bad as Bill. He 1 many years ago, and B home sometimes, and n. But he had as good ned, and so am I. I've larvesting, and get some Iren to card up, and then something warm for 'em ihey are the masler-crit- and card and talk, and diication is a great thing, )ng the mountains where i from the lake. It's a > many ponds. There's 3oose Pond, and Crane yrramid Lake, and- -that's an't nobody but me that knows how these ponds Zeek ?" asked one of the id and Square Pond, they ihape ; and the wild geese ake, the surveyors found a lien there's something very le stream that the outlet by a thunder-shower that le water sets back through know all about the history jt informed us concerning I don't rightly know what , it was because they some- early in the season." J talking about my family, father came frona England It fioished hU edueakioa at It CROWII POINT. Hi Oxford ; and there's few men that have got as much learn- ing now-a-days. What an army that was ! Every man was dressed in superfine broad cloth, with gold knee buckles. And, besides, though I am almost ashamed to say it, I am connected by marriage with General Arnold's family. He was a good soldier, though, at Sarriloag, and some said he got the victory there. Why don't you sing- the old songs ollener, boys ? That the great Mount Defiance They soon would fortify : — We found that we must quit our Fines, Or ev'ry man must die. Which soon we did in hasH perform. And went to Sarritoa.^, A burning all the buili';ng8 We found along O.t road. 'Twas then the gp I'rous thought inspir'd The noble G.ues's mind, For to send out Gin'ral Arnold, To see if he could find A passage through the inimy, Wherever he might be ; Which soon he did accomplish. And set the country free." I made a passage to Crown Point one p'.easant afterneor* and evening, in a small lake schooner, built of boarrls, laid in several courses, without timber, on Annesley's plan. Its masts also were made so as to be easily struck ; and the dimensions and fixtures being those of a canal-boat, it had taken a cargo through the Erie Canal, I believe to New^ York, and was now on its lelurn to the lower part of Lake- Champlain. The crew, consisting of only two men and a boy, were full of fresh water wit and anecdotes, and inci- dents by canal, lake, and river, and at once skilful and obliging. As they were telling a long eel story, the neigh., bouring eminences on the left, and the distant ridges of the Green Mountains on the east, especially the Camel's Hump» made a magnificent appearance in the declining sun, while we passed near enoug,h to the scattered dwellings to feel 342 LAKE CHAMPIAIK. some interest in the inhabitants of several retired bat plea- 7^isZl I was carefully landed in the jolly boat, under kC moon at a pretty beach on Chimney Point; and :fterf «""- ' r p'oseTt the inn. examined «ith interest ?he striking features of that neighbourhood, not less mteresU in^ rscefery than in history. On the elevated point, while Tfi b ee'e was blowing, 1 traced out an old breastwork once extending from cove to cove, and a redoubt whch boked »p" ndlwn the lake for a great distance, while he nls of Crown Point lay exposed to the eye - the opp te „f .hp l«kp here reduced to the breadth of a river. w":'— ctg position. N-^'"^, -f iL;tf ^ay without sailing long m the range of ^^e -n "ery ol the old fortress, then passing it in review with broaclsidt expo ed to he batterie's within musket-shot, and afterward fUcouli survive this risk, steering for several more m the ange of one of the five great redoubts which were m ad- vance of the angles of the main-work. I crossed the ftrrj . Td rambled ab'out the solitary ruins but found them in a pretty good state of preservation. The original ^orUere^^^^ by the French on the shore, is near the landipg. Fhe long, broad and low point, the end of which is occupied by the Sficatls, is^overgrown by young trees, -h-h have Inronted since its evacuation, and there is a grove of the sLe age rtllat at Ticonderoga. The parade wi.hin he forTess was green, and almost as smooth as if « tU >n "se , w We on7y thf want of roofs and glass in the brick buildings Turl^undfng it, and the growth of «« ^-^^^^^^^^^^^ showed that the place was deserted. The Jjarracks were occrpVed partly by sheep and partly by swallows , and the sSJ cLemplation of the scene aroimd wakened many reflections on past events. Fei i t ing soc wh bly sidi twc to roo and foo( tak( abo for( •'fij I ac the tyra theii dise sere if th kno\ it, Ti the j thes( M befoi TT ^erml retired b it plea- i the jolly boat, under Chimney Point; and xamined with interest hood, not less interest- e elevated point, while ut an old breastwork, and a redoubt which •eat distance, while the the eye on tiie opposite he breadth of a river, oihing could pass this inge of the aridlery of review with broadside ket-shot, and afterward, for several more in the lubts, which were in ad- •k. I crossed the ferry, IS, but found them in a rhe original fort, erected thelandipg. The long, (vhich is occupied by the >ung trees, which have there is a grove of the The parade within the smooth as if still in use ; ass in the brick buildings umacs round the parapet, ted. The barracks were ily by swallows ; and the ne around wakened many 243 CHAPTEK XXXI. Feeling, on entering Canada-State of Society-Eniiffrsnt. «!,„„ Disappointment is the first feeling of a traveller on enter- utg Canada by th U route. There is no scenery, and he soon feels as ,f there were no inhabitants, that J none in whom he can take nterest. The country is flat, and miserl" bly cultivated; and you have positive evidence, onTvcry sKle, that the people ought to be sent to schoolan age o^ wo, and laughed at or provoked personally in some manner to induce them to build decent houses, keep them clean root out the thistles and plant eorn, cut down riilUa poles* and erect schooLhouses-and allow the soil to produce food for man and beast, for which it seems perfectly wilC about It. It ,s bad erough for the Nevv-Englanders to be •' fixing, I know ; but ,t is a good deal worse to do Jdther. I ached to put some of the people I met, old and young, into he hands of a certain district school-master, the greatest tyrant ever knew. It seemed to me that ignorance' ha t their case assumed the symptoms of so terfible, so fatal a disease, that I would have volunteered to put on his thurnb! f ther?; "' '!!'" ""I'" """"y °' ^'« «'^«-«» '"easu^es. If there were any hope that so he might get a morsel of knowledge into any crevice of their whole Lins " Raze It, raze U to the foundations," I exclaimed, at the sight of he great fabric of public ignorance which is reared amone these active and amiable people. ^ Montreal Mountain is in sight just before you for miles before you reach the river; and you have little el," to 244 CANADA. Observe but BeUcUleana^uc^l^M^^^ right, over the vast pl'''"' f " ! ^ ;^,^ ^^e glo >n.y nunnery» and comfortless »'<>r » °^^ J^^J^S high walls, and the with spacious g^"""'^* ^"^^"'^Jori on the shore of the vociferous, French speaking V^"^' '^^ Tobi: St. Lawrence, -™"^ ^^ .-^^ td the Lakes have The steamboats on the St L -en ^^^^ ^^ been often "f*'^^^^;,^ b UaiUo much so as to render newly.arrived rom ^J^^^^^"^ .. unpleasant." And such travelling for pl^'^^^re remarkably \ .^ ^^^^^ ^^^. a mixed co."^P=»"y '^^J^se ^S oesl While some of those obl^,g ^^^.^ ^^^^^ Illy write about "^^ »^^;;j^^f ^e triuble of leaving home, they might save ^'-m We^ jh^tro ^^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ Among the «'"^7";»; ' '^^l^^^^^^^^^ „f intelligent and wealthy thisyearamuchlagerproporuon^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^ persons than »«"*^» '^'^ J^'f ^hem to their population. Biit Lefitofaddingnotaf^wofthem^^^^^^^^ some appeared to bo ^"J'^^ "^ans, to direct their course formation, as well as pecun a^ ^^^ „; hi be heard to advamage after ^^^'^/iTtunuJ through which he was making inciuines •<^^«"^ f J^f^^ 7, been in a geography passing, that showed he had jvev ^^^ ^^^^^^^^^„ j ^lass in his life ; ^^^ « ."^ *"f which the English school versed in " the -«« of th globes v ^^ .^^^^^p.^hmcnt. advertisements seem t" J^g^'^^ J .^e same time leave un- What will not 'g""'^*'",^";';^ ' of the emigrants might done '. I am persuaded tha ma"y «« ^^ l^- out. if save years of "-"e. an-l ^^J ^^^ J^, J, ,, {be boys in the they would but ask a f«J /^j^^^ answer, aiwl act oa New-York V^^'^^r' obtined One Joman you will hear the ^--V''^g;;"i:Jb,nror* children, who have come ta inquiring for her husbana n,.morrow, one sick. America; ^"«^J" ''''°^;; •! 'Shy V ^""ther amazed at and believing the chmate^^-^^^^^^ ^^^ fHendliness of the beauty and fertility ol tne j ^ ^^^^, the people, the aburdano. ^^ J "f,; %l,Luy of every lie Mountain', on tho St. John's. The old the glo )my nunnery* , high walls, and the on the shore of the urope. cc and the Lakes have ason, by the emigrants much so as to render inpleasant." And such observed in these car- tourists, who occasion- ecis before their eyes^ )uble of leaving home, marked, there has been f intelligent and wealthy rn slates have had the to their population. But vided with necessary m- ins, to direct their course ne person might be heard y through which he was er been in a geography at best but extremely It which the English school such an accomplishment. It the same time leave un- y of the emigrants might money they bring out, H lestionsaslheboysmthe •eadily answer, and act on ^ne woman you will hear ildren, who have come ta 'turn to-morrow ; one 8ick„ .alihy; another amazed at ounlry, the friendliness of ,vork, the high wages, the. t, the superiority of every ,e only wonder to me was^ ;vSllliii!il|illiii'^^'' I \ that in w thiiil then I tlicr the aboi we whc acc(j at ni con I hum cum gelh old I lecii A Que is 111 ledjr air a ancc sum of t Tim whei niosi men •I' ferrj dista beinj of t you ble, torn lect, > - ^H LVj '^ yl '- !. '* ^'^ MONTREAL. 245 that they were not all delighted ; for I have seen the ships in which some of them have crossed the Atlantic, and should think that any thing would be preferred ts life on board of them. I asked an old Scotchman one day, just arrived, whe< thcr he had had a pleasant passage. He pointed down the half-closed hatches and said, " In that hole there were above ninety of us ; and yet this was the only ventilator we had during a voyage of six weeks, except three days, when the afier-halches for a short time were removed. On account of tlie impurity of the air, i used to come on deck at night, and could scarcely persuade myself to return." I confess that liie sight prexented below sunk my ideas of human nature to a grade that always makes me feel un- comfortable for a day or two. The sounds which rose to- gether reminded me of Bunyaii's pit of 'J'ophet, though the old tnan did not answer my idea of a shepherd of the De- lectable Mountains. A few days may be agreeably spent at Montreal and Quebec, and in visiling the environs : for, although there is little to excite interest in the literary institutions (know- ledge, in all its branches, being at a low ebb), the foreign air of the people, their habitations and maimers, the appear- ance of activity which pervades every thing during the brief summer which the climate allows, and the peculiar features of the natural scenery, present considerable attractions. Time is not allowed to enter into detail. Let us see, then, whether any idea of the variety and nature of the objects, most striking to a traveller, may be conveyed by a rapid mention of them. The approach to Montreal, in one of the Laprairie ferry-boats, allows you to contemplate it at leisure. The distance is nine miles : the river, which is three miles broad, being crossed transversely. You are excited by the rapidity of the powerful steamboat, and of the current, bearing you like a bird over a ragged channel, which often is visi- ble, covered with crags, apparently ready to tear the bot- tom of the vessel. French, of a harsh and uncouth dia- lect, is dinned in your ears by market-men and women, t46 CANADA. wHtchinir their ba.kels of roots, herbs, Ac, p'^ored i6 Tan V harvest from some part of the rich bul abused pla.n, which cZl from the river's bank to the hor.zm., except where it is bounded by a few distant and ""P«""8 '"^j^^^^^ louni ins If you cross in a buiteau. you hear the boat Xof "^ur roIc^s, in which there .s li.tle --etness or poeuy The city, spreading along the ow shore of the rWer shoots up th^ spires of five or six churches, wUh the domes of "wo cLventS. and the towers of the new cathedra^ arinst he Mountain of Montreal, which alone rescue, the sL from utter tameness. Those who w.sh to contem- p a the largest specimen of barbarous architecture m North America (saving Mexico), may visit the cathedra 1 What apology is tliere for the mtroduct.on of the Gothic ,,e.nto^he^mtcd St.es. Wh^^^^^^^^^^^ andtf suc:essf;c race^ oLen in difleront stages of c.v. tC^SZfo^le judgment. . ^Vhy thenju>u d we and a mu titude of laboured devices and ornaments the m md wouldTn vain understand T Simplicity and use, two o the Teat features of nature's works, are banished hence, he Sgh for which our eyes were formed is obscured ; and h objects and ends of our creation mystified, as far as archi tpctural objects can produce such an eflect. '"why should we wish, in this country, ^ F«-" '^ pile, to the eye, in which it can trace none of the great prm pl< am H( sty tab an( tioi rul use of, tas the An an) ns 1 thii pur for the whi we blei ( tryt diar ries pun wh£ in ( the agi stru thej rbs, &c., gathered i6 I rich bul abused plain, . to the horizon, excepi and imposing isolated eau, you hear the boat is little sweetness or r the low shore of the ' nix churches, with the srs of the new cathedral, which alone rescues the 3 who wish to contcm- )us architecture in North I the cathedral, iroduction of the Gothic hat is there among us is there connected with ,nd what good influence future 1 We have had taste through many ages, diflerent stages of eivili- )ry at all allied to such a tion is based on the foun- ihere is no mystery, no is concealed, nothing is re. Neither do we admit •lings are to be influenced Why then should we in which vastness and 3 heart, without oflTering to fasten upon ; in which the lich they cannot penetrate, es and ornaments the mind plicity and use, two of the , are banished hence ; the rmed is obscured ; and the 1 mystified, as far as archi- ll an effect. g country, to present Tast trace none of the great prm- VALSI NOTIONS. 247 eiplei of natural taste ; in which the mind finds only per- plexily ; and the feelings, instead of being exalted with hope and fn.-ouragement, are depressed with undefined gloom. How far more appropriate are the pure and chaste (ireek styles to our own history, character, and condition ! I would take the Doric and Ionic in preference to the Corinthian : and, if I may judge from my own feelings, the first-men- Uoned IS to be preferred to ail others. Regard the ancient rules and proportions so far as they are appropriate to the uses of our public edifices, and consistent with the nature of our climate ; and then the more vigorously you culiivatc taste and multiply specimens in cities, towns, villages, and the very forests where they may be needed, the better. In America there is no apology for a gradual introduction of any species of perfection which necessity does not forbid lis to know at once. We must admit only the best of every thing. Where the forest tree falls, there let taste erect her purest monuments, while learning adopts the best methods for instruction, and philanthropy binds heart to heart with the love of the gospel : for liberty has established a system which requires the most powerful support of us all, and we are answerable to mankind for an exhibition of the no- blest results of civilization and Christianity. One of the unaccountable traits of the taste of our coun- trymen. is displayed by many of them on entering a Cana- dian town. They will take off their children to the nunne- ries, obtain, if possible, an interview with the superieures, purchase a few trifles of domestic manufacture, infer from' what they see that all must be well arranged and systematic in every department, because they spend a few minutes in the presence of stiff and starched nuns, and go away with a gratuitous impression that there is a great deal of solid in- struction given to the children and young persons whom they profess to teach. 348 CHAPTER XXXI. linked Sutes • a Frenchman and a South American ! The ile ecS o my recollection Monsieur Levasseur who. lile in the train of General Lafayette. ;^itnes8ed the ^. ^llhi^d "of the gr=« eaparitie. of republican,. ^^'^.K Zeln .J -ways .djng .he W» »f ■=f:;c;"::rcr:rTKe"or:oSsrr Spdhke an engine. Millions of her inhabitants are stand- LI tit day S machines, with their weapons presented Sfe the fee^h of a bark-mill, or the cogs « a -der^rmde^ readv to do work by the exertion of brute force. What an mmen^e capital stands from age to age -vested m arsnd and foundries, fortresses, fleets, and powder-mills; yet_ the dget of war annually groans under -- ^PP™?— i Peace may sit balancing her pmions over them ^r a time , Stb. g:the?er;he:\?e flowers of a new season e.e . be plucked, the machinery moves again; its course is against mankind, its track is a stream of human gore. Th Greeks cried for freedom, but they must pass through Missi- longhi and th the pr whispi sion. felt in the Atl ment— in a m and hu the wa cles an Indeed, livelier than ot in lone] the ene of liber Now eat and Is there gain wc devotes of our ( preciato benefaci The sent to power peculiar Most of views ai of them here to ( a severe was disj whose p landers on vario ^r»nlg ji ! Wt |w HHpri» i P^W |* 'gt m«?>» THE BANISHED POLES. 24» SXXI. —The Polish Exile*— Regret* n Slowstarter't" Farewell. e other day, with the con- lom I met travelling in the I a South American ! The Monsieur Levasaeur, who, ifayette, witnessed the la- one night at a conflagra- ysical people, a nation of le one of the engines, in uachines which he thought capacities of republicans. lys admiring the results of ety; and the sagacity and ere not only gratifying, but ;nt was here on the political I ! The old world is man- Df her inhabitants are etand- h their weapons presented, the cogs of a cider grinder, jn of brute force. What an e to age invested in arsenals ', and powder-mills ; yet the 5 under new appropriations, inions over them for a time ; )n the wing ; and what shall When a crop of humanity iwers of a new season are to noves again ; its course is stream of human gore. The they must pass through Missi- longhi to reach it. The Polanders claimed the rights of men, and they are sent to weep their loss in Siberia. Wherever the principles, in which we so thanklessly live, are even whispered in Europe, there comes the wild beast of oppres- sion. His iron step is heard in the university, his gripe ia felt in the school and at the fireside: while on this side of the Atlantic, education, universal example, and the govern- ment—even self-interest and prejudice itself, invite, nay, in a manner, constrain us to hear the language of liberty and humanity, and to associate to sustain them ; in Europe, the warmest hearts are chilled by the sight of the mana- cles and dungeons to which such sentiments are condemned. Indeed, nobler, more exalted men than we, men with a far livelier and more active devotion to the good of mankind than ourselves, are now, while we speak, shut up in prison, in loneliness and misery, friendless and oppressed, because the enemies of truth and righteousness, of light and wisdom, of liberty and right, are too many and too strong. Now are there no greater duties incumbent on us than to eat and drink, and take the good of the things around us ! Is there no higher object for us to aim at than merely to gain wealth and honour, or to exercise power ? Whoever devotes himself exclusively to either of these, is an enemy of our country, a foe to mankind, a blot on our land, a de- predator of our advantages, an ingrate to our heavenly benefactor. The two hundred and thirty-six Polanders who have been sent to the United States, by the arbitrary and inhuman power of Austria, have among them individuals presenting peculiar claims to the interest and kindness of Aaiericans. Most of them are severe sufferers for the sake of liberal views and patriotic exertions in favour of freedom. A few of them, however, were of bad character, and were sent here to discredit the others. The government of Austria is a severe despotism ; and one of its most detestable features was displayed in an attempt to injure the characters of men whose patriotism they hated and feared. After these Po- landers had been imprisoned at Brinder for some months, on various pretexts, without trial or charge, having been 22 250 REFLECTIONS ON SEEING THEM. collected from diflerent quarters, anJ generally unacquainted S each other, arrangements were made to transport theni roT.este,Xe they were to embark for this country. 'JhfsteP they consented to, because the only alternative off e was, that they should be delivered up to Russ.a. They were to be transported in detachments ; and the first that wis sent ofF consisted of those who had been imprisoned for crimes, that their conduct might make an impression un- favou le to the patriots. Since their arrival m America, a discrimination his been made, and the unworthy se aside. HeHhey now are on our coast, necessarily unknown, exfept so far as we choose to seek an acquaintance w h them ignorant of our language, manners, and habits, but, She blind or the dumb! presenting on that account dou- ble claims to our sympathy and aid Like those suffenng under some natural infirmity from which we are happily free 2y also teach us lessons of gratitude and of duty, under the suoerior blessings which we enjoy. . A banished Pole should move among us as a livmg monument of arbitrary power, and whenever we look upou Tm it should be with the recollection-" Here is a victim despotism \ Here is a man, such as our ancestors would have chosen to be,-if offered his alternative-slavery or Sanshment: here is one who has endured that arbitrary ^wer to which our ancestors would not submit, but re- iutPd for the sake of their children." seemed to me, while conversing with some of these lonely exiles, as if Providence had sent them among us at Zs time not without a kind design. We have been so re- mote from the sight of oppression and violence, so long rcustom'd to regard tyranny and lawless rule as mere creatures of the imagination, that when sentiments are de- clared, and measures taken tending strong y that way, m- «tead of taking the .^^rm. too many of us look on with in- Serence as if there were a wall of impenetrable brass e!ed to secure our liberty. These melancholy and silent strangers seem to whisper to us, to beware of ourse yes, our f eSom, and our country : and if their presence shall rendor ualy more ^yatchful. f it shall lead us to reflect more lu- a a n a ti h fl m vi ac al ar re a of or of ac no de in ah is, ha rac hai an( air ««B577It»»".iU«*»»Wl'*f NG THEM. 1 generally unacquainted ! made to transport them nbark for this country, use the only alternative delivered up to Russia, •tachments ; and the first who had been imprisoned ; make an impression un- their arrival in America, id the imworthy set aside, ist, necessarily unknovvn, !ek an acquaintance with manners, and habits, but, iting on that account dou- aid. Like those suffering which we are happily free, tude and of duty, under the y- ,. . re among us as a living id whenever we look upon ection — " Here is a victim uch as our ancestors would his alternative— slavery or has endured that arbitrary would not submit, but re- Idren." rersing with some of these had sent them among us at sign. We have been so re- sion and violence, so long and lawless rule as mere at when sentiments are de- iding strongly that way, in- nany of us look on with in- wall of impenetrable brass These melancholy and silent , to beware of ourselves, our if their presence shall render ill lead us to reflect more io- CONCtCSlON. 261 temly on the mcst,mablc privileges we possess, of the deli- cate and responsible trust eommiited to us for the benefit of mankind m being made the depositories of free ins.itutions and Chr.s.>an hgu and liberty, it will not have been iS ha our sympathy for them has been painfully excited or Juj^ they have been deprived of pro'perty. l^Z [^«KrTJI^;W''J«i4!i^WSWW5f)S?^ " ant n^r. n ™""'u'" ^''^ ^"'^ '^«' ^^e most import- ant part of an air is the end; and that, no matter what are the merits of a composition, if there be approp ra e ha niony m the closing note, the impression must be delightlb and the hearers will be co .ent: so gourmands, someUmes St' Z:lT] V""' '' ''^'^ ^•^°-«' nior'sels forThe flavours and spicery—because its taste is to be lasting. How ZS'2 7:u' '" '"'''"^' "'•" "«"''' "«^ inteLnaiy aavantage, as he could wish to make a happy close is avowed him. Here I am suddenly admoniSd, br'tho amount of paper I have blotted, that I must brinff mv hastr a heap of materials lymg yet untouched before me, scenes orads'f f?"? " '"\''"'^ -'■'y-' --'i^ of the wise and acles of fools, remarks of chance-travellers, and thoughts of my own, with snatches from Greek and Latin authors un accountably preserved from the chaos of my earfy studies now applied, well or ill, to modern affairslit is fn vai„ to declare that a book to be appropriate, should be neither for in advance of, nor behind society, and that all these maleri is iT TTu- '"' P""^'' '" ^ «^«^"»- i-xJ^ed, the fac. IS, I have found things so rapidly moving aro.nd m; while I have been making this volume, tliat I hav? been on a con tant race to keep up. Now out of breath, indeed, but not ex hausted nor emirely discouraged, I am advised to desisf- and, even while I hesitate, am chagrined to think that I already begin to be distanced. ' I feel, in short, that I am in much the same condition ia f 252 CONCLUSION. Ui.h T iMt saw mv old friend Tom Slowstarter. It was poet, or a prose-wnter ? «a>^ Tom, 1 am Ud,much less ««» ^J-f^^J'^J T^ll^stand any further into thmgs."— "If you V. P „ith us "—" Here's . thing;' said the engineer ';y^^^^^^^ X,^ gZg to knoJmuch, you can't be in our company. Y u Tom laid himself almost flat with ,^"7/ '"^ f, "e^'l age failed m an mstant. «« f J^JP^j^^e ^u the caravar» like a post m the m.ddle of the «>^^^_J^^^^^^ giowstarter ! Jp with society." Tom has never smce been heard oL IINIS. ora Slowstarler. It was 3. We had stopped " to -(not our horses, but the hted to look at the ma- eels began to move, and urry; but the working of ixed him so much that he , and jump in Tom, you'll 'Are you speaking to a m ; » I am not behind the it.' 1 want to look a little stop to understand any n't go with us."—" Here's •» I want to know a little Bnl'llride."— "If youare )e in our company. You thing or the other pretty ) see it go round once or 'm ready ; open the door." engine had begun to snort els went round like a buzz, ith running;— and "Here, I little faster, a little faster! le was straining legs, arms, th his companions. " You [lis crisis ; and Tom's cour- ive up the chase, and stood road, while all the caravan Good-by, Mr. Slowstarter ! ."Good-by, good-by," said nd family,— there's nothmg -but yet \ wish I was with to find less fault, and keep jver since been heard of. 3. L