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S., rUOFESSOR OF CHEMISTRY AND NATURAL 1IISH)RY IN QUEEN's UNIVERSITY, KINGSTON, CANADA. ADDRESSED TO SIR W. E. LOGAN, PROVINCIAL GEOLOGIST. EXTRACTED FROM THE REPORT OF PROGRESS OF THE GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA FOR 1863-66. PROPERTY OF LIBRARY GEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF CANADA 601 Booth St., Ottawa LENT TO PLEASE RETURN DATE OTTAWAi PRINTED BY G. E. DESBAR*ATS. •-'^•••r 1867. REPORT OF MR. ROBERT BELL, ADDRESSED TO SIR W. E. LOGAN, F. R. S., F. G. S., DIRECTOR or THE UEOLOUICAI. SURVEY. Sir,— In the month of April, 18G5, I had the honor to receive your in- structions fron?. London, directing me to visit tfie Manitoulin Islands, which had already been geologically examined by Mr. Murray, in 1847, and described in his Report for that year, pages 99-106 ; the object of my visit being to trace out, with greater detail the various rock formations of the group. Being directed to do carefuliy, -whatever was done, I found it impossible to go over more than the Grand Manitoulin Island, and the smaller islands immediately adja- cent, so that the following report has reference to these alone. Geographical Description. The Grand Manitoulin Island is the largest of the Manitoulin Oioei;,ii.y. group, in the northern part of Lake Huron. It is eighty-five miles long, from east to west, and thirty miles broad in the middle, and contains fifteen or sixteen hundred square miles — equal to about one million of acres. A striking feature in the geography of the island is the numerous deep bays indenting its outline, chiefly on the northern side, and the comparatively large lakes which are scattered through the interior. Both of these have been caused by slight transverse undulations of the strata, aflbrding facilities for the cutting out of the depressions by glacial denudation. The most eastern of these anticlinals runs from Wequamekongsing Bay, on the cast end of 1 2 Ii»kp»nn(l Uay«. the island, through South IJay. Thv next passes through Wequa- mnkong Bay, and the enlargement at the head of Manitowaning Bay. This latter hay is not far from twenty miles long, and its main body, together with the eastern expanse of Lake Manitou, lies upon a third anticlinal. Lake Manitou, which is in the centre of the broadest part of the island, is the largest of the lakes. It measures eleven miles In length, from east to west, and although quite narrow in the middle, is, near each end, about seven miles broad from north to south, the western expanse, like the eastern, corresponding with one of the transverse anticlinals. Close to the west of this lake is another, called Lake Mindemooya, six miles long from north to south, and three miles wide. It lies upon a continuation of the anticlinal running down llonora Bay. Still farther west is I^ake Kagawong, very much resembling Lake Manitou in outline, and having its features similarly disposed with regard to direction, each of the broad portions, as in the case of Lake Manitou, lying upon a north and south anticlinal. A little more than half way from its east end, the island is cut almost in two by Lake Wolsey, which has the same level as Lake Huron, and communicates with it by an outlet a quarter of a mile wide. In size, form and direction, this lake is almost a counterpart of Lake Mindemooya, while Lakes Manitou and Kagawong may each be considered as the doubles of these. In this way we have six inland sheets of water, in precisely the same geological situation, each one being due to a slight north and south anticlinal running through its centre. In addition to this chain of lakes, Gore Bay, Helen Bay, and a smaller one between it and Lake Wolsey, Elizabeth Bay, the western part of Bayfield Sound, and Cemetery and Mildrum Bays in the western |)ortion of the island, occupy the same geological position with regard to these lakes, and to one anotiier, and have all been produced by the same geological causes. The anticlinals thus indicated are fifteen in number. The regularity in the arrangement of the lakes and bays is very striking, as will be perceived by an inspection of the accompanying map. While the shore-lines to the northward, are thus indented, those which, look southward are very uniform, and nearly straight in their general outline. A good example of this is seen in the whole south coast of the island, which has no bays corresponding with those on the north side ; what is called South Bay being rather a lake, fourteen milts long, and having an outlet only about two hundred yards broad. For the same geological reasons, the southern shores of Barrie and La Cloche Islands, and the northern sides of Lakes Manitou and Ka- gawong, are nearly straight. In addition to the lakes already mentioned, smaller ones, varying from a quarter of a mile to four miles in length, are very numerous. 3 The lakes are generally studded with picturestjiic islands, and from the larger ones, streams of eonslderable size How into Lake Huron. The rivulets whieli enter the three larger lakes are (juite insignificant in size, and few in number, yet the River Manitou, whieh flows from ilie south-eastern extremity of the lake of tiie same name, into ■"^'rewm". Michael Bay on the south side of the island, is from fifty to one liundred feet broad, and has a swift current. It is said to be navi- ;;;able for canoes, with the exception of a fall of about eight feet near Michael fiay. The MinUemooya River, rurining from Lake Minde- mooya to Providence Bay on the south side, and the Kagawong Kiver, flowing from Lake Kagawong into Mudge Bay on the north side of the island, are each nearly equal in size to the Manitou River. The Mindimooya is navigable for canoes throughout, l)ut the Kaga- wong is interrupted near its mouth, by falls, equal in all to about sixty foct, above which it is navigable to the lake. Each of these rivers i,s capable of driving a number of mills. Streams large enough to be available for milling purposes also occur at the following places : VV^equemakong ; on the north-west side of South Bay, one at five and one at eleven miles from the head ; on the west side of Manitowan- ing Bay, six miles from the head ; at thu head of She-gua-an-dah Bay ; at the head of West (or Ilonora) Bay ; at the west end of Bay- Held Sound ; and at the head of Cemetery Bay. Some of the other streams represented upon the map, might also be found available (luring the greater part of the year. No mountains, properly speaking, occur on the Manitoulin Island. T!ie geological structure being similar to that of the western penin- sula of Upper Canada, the island presents a series of even plateaux, having their abrupt edges Aicing to the northward. The surface of each, beginning at the north, slopes gently southward with the dip of the strata, till it meets the escarpment of the next higher, the last one dipping under the waters of Lake Huron. Soil. — Only some portions of the island are covered with soil fit Soil. for cultivation — much of the surface being either greatly encumbered with boulders, or consisting of almost bare flat rocks. The distribu- tion of the soil was found to be dependent on that of the geological formations, .so that knowing the geology of the island, the extent and distribution of its soil are also known. The island is alrao.st equally divided longitudinally, by the conspicuous escarpment of the Niagara formation, which faces northward, and runs in a zig-zag course from one end to the other. In a general way, this escarpment forms the grand dividing line, in regard to the quality of the land, the good .soil lying mostly to the north of it, while the rocky land occu- pies the area to the south. There are numerous exceptions to this I* Tree». Climate. Ag:riculture. genoral nile, on both side? of the lino, which thus divides the island, as it were, into halves. In the northern half, the boulders which have been transported from the eountry on the north shore of Lake Hnron, will constitute in some places a serious obstacle to agricul- ture, and in other placep the solid rock comes almost to the surface. On the other hand, considerable tracts of good soil are to be found in the southern half, and even on this side of the island, except in the worst portions, a shallow soil covers the Hat rocks, affording land suitable for pasturage. Trees. — The trees of Manitoulin Island are hard and soft maple, elm, bass-wood, white and yellow birch, iron-wood, white and red oak, beech, white and black ash, poplar, aspen, mountain ash, plum, cherry, balsam-fir, red and white pine, nspruce, hemlock and wliite cedar. Althougli the number of species is thus very considerable, the more valuable. k."nds, such as oak, elm, and pine are not in suflicient quantities to render the island of importance as a lumbering region. The pine and other kinds of coniferous trees, which are very gcsneraily scjittered over the island, will be found of great value to the settlers for the purposes of construction. Hard maple is the prevailing tim- ber, more particularly in the northern parts of the island, and every spring, large quantities of sugar are manufactured from its sap by the Indians. Climate and Productions. — The climate of the Manitoulin Island is said, by those who have lived many years upon it, to t)e in most respects similar to that of ihe western peninsula of Canada. This would also be infi^rred I'rom the vegetation of the island. Although lying to the northward of the western peninsula it has the advantages of being surrounded by the waters of Lake Huron, and of being sheltered by the Iluronian hills to the northward. The spring ap- pears to be quite as early as at Toronto, and the fall no earlier than there. The heat of suinmi>r is tempered by breezes from the sur- rounding lake, and the sheets of water so thickly scattered in the in- terior also exert a modifying influence. The island having hitherto been in the hands of the Indians, no extensive agricultural operations have been carried on, but at the settlements of Wequemakong and Manitowaning, established more than twenty years ago, sufiicient experience has been gained by v/hite men, in addition to that of the Indians, to prove the climate very well suited for growing all the usual crops of the other parts of western Canada. Both fall and spring wheat have been success- fully raised, as well as all the coarser grains. Maize is grown in considerable quantities by the Indians. Potatoes succeed well, both wuth regard to size, quantity and quality, and the potatoe disease has so lir boon unknown upon tlio Ulund, Timothy and clover i?ro\v luxuriantly, and p'-an art? an abundant crop ; we observed them fully ripe al the end of Jime. In the gardens at Manito- waning, excellent cucumbers, umsk-nielons and water-ntelons are grown in the open air. The melons are said never to fail to ript'U in good time. In these gardens, tomatoes in large quantities, were rip > in August and September, and a few apple trees were laden with fruit. Plums and cherries also succeed well. General 7?c«iar/.-.v.— The government iiaving just thrown open fi.r sPUlonicnt, the recently surveyed lands on Manitoulin, and but little bein<' irenerallv known regarding this island, the following observa- tions may be found useful at the present time. In 18.%, Sirl-rancis Bond Head, then the governor of Upper Canada, set this large island apart, as a place to which all Indians uiight resort when they had disposed of their lands in other parts of the province. It was believed that in this way the Indians might be got together in con- sidcrable numbers, and the government attempted, by means of instructors, to teach them agriculture and various trades. But the Indians, failing to carry out this scheme, an agreement was eflected with them by the Hon. Mr. McDougall, in 18G2, by which the island, with the exception of the portion lying to the east of the isthmus separating Manilowaning and South Bays, could be made nv.iilabhr for the use of white men. After a preliminary exploration, six townships have l)een surveyed, which are now thrown open for settlement. The soil of most of the lots in these townships appears Seiiiemeiif. to be well suited for farming jiurposes, and the timber upon them will not be difficult to clear. Every part of the island is easily accessible from some point upon the shore, and the interior lakes . will probably be found of advantage for the purposes of transporta- tion. Several leading roads have been laid down in the original surveys, and these are to be constructed out of the funds to be realized from the sale of the lands. The good land of the island derives an additional value from the fact that its agricultural produc- tions will probably be required to supply mines on the north shore of Lake Huron. The poorer lands may be very profitably employed for sheep-farming. The facility with which they may be cleared of their timber, and their suitableness for this purpose, have been demonstrated at Manitowaning, where between two and three thousand acres are under grass. The valuable fisheries around the island will prove of advantage during its first settlement. Large Fisiierits. quantities, especially of white-fish and salmon-trout, are sent to market every year by the Indians, who are very skilful in the manufacture of nets and barrels. The interior lakes also abound in 6 wliitc-fisli, salmon-trout, iVfsli-walcr liorrini,', black hiiss, prrcli, pickerel, pik<', (lo^-fisll and speckled trout, and several of tlieni are much resorted to for Hsliing by IIm; Indians. Hears and earibou are the principal (inadrnpeds of the islands. TIk; beaver has been com- pletely (exterminated. Ducks are plentiful durinj^ *!.. ir spring and fall migrations, but very few of them remain all summer. liotli the spotted and ruH'ed grouse, or common partridge, are met with, the latter in some abundance. The economic minerals of the island will be described further on. Should the petroleum be found U> exist in large cpianlities, it will prove a great stimulus to the rapid development of the resources of the island. Geological Description. (Jeoiogy. The general geological features of the Manitoulin Islands as determined by Mr. Murray, will be found in the (Geology of Canada, piges 194, 216, 320 and 333. As there slu)\vn, the rocks of the island, with the exception of a few ridges of Iluronian itroinatopora concentric i and Beatricea undulala. The fact of this formation diminishing In volume as it nins west- ward is referred to in your General Report of 1863. !ts thickness at Cape Rich, on the southwest side of the Georgian Bay, is then- given as 500 feet. At Cape Smyth yon give the thickness as 300 feet, and the explorations of last summer tended to confirm the correctness (^1" this estimate. To the south of She-gua-an-tiah Bay, and of Little Current, the thickness appears to be about 250 feet, and at Maple Point 220 feet. About 145 feet are exposed on Barrie Island, and 137 at Cape Robert, but the base of the formation being under the level of Lake Huron at both of these localities, the figures mentioned do not give its total thickness. The following is a descending sec- Setion. tion of the cliff on the west side of Cape Robert : Bi'own-woathorin;!. dral) and Muisli ^rrr'V argilloaronacoous liinos- tono — mostly thin-Vjoddcil, or uIk'u tliic^kcr, brcakin.ijr away in invgular liini)>s. Tliis band forms ilic ixTpcndunilar and overhanging portion of tlio (ditt',land is liorc, and clso- wlipro on tlie island, clmractori/.od \>y a largu concentric; eoral (Stromaiopora coiicentrica) 17 (.'rumbling calcaroo-are.v.ceous shale of a bluish (hub color 10 TIar Total 1012 Superficial Geology. — The glacial plicnomena of the drift period' have evidently had much to do with the production of the present features of the island. Glacial stria; are everywhere seen upon the Drift stiire. top of the solid rock, except where its surface has been exposed to defacing agencies. Along the south side, the upper beds of lime- stone, sloping into the lake, are always strongly grooved or furrowed. A strip of bare and almost flat rock, several hundred feet broad, frequently intervenes between the forest and the water, and in such places the grooving is very strikingly displayed. On the west side of the entrance to South Bay, the Guelph dolomites are cut into a remarkable series of long straight and parallel hollows, in whicli the water is deep enough to admit sail-boats. The ridges between these furrows vary from one to ten feet in height. Their course is about S. 50^ VV,, and tliey dip under the lake at an angle of two or three degrees. At the west end of the island, the course of the striEB is more nearly south than at the other end, where it is considerably to the west of south, the direction changing gradually with that of the depressions which hold the interior lakes and the bays on the north side. From the west end to Elizabeth Bay, the course is about S. 9^ VV. ; on the south shore, nearly abreast of Lake Wolsey^ it is S. 17^ VV., at Providence Bay, S. 36° VV., and on the shores of South Bay, fro.n S. 50'' VV. to S. 55'^ VV. The northern sides of the interior lakes generally jiresent low sloping and ice-grooved shores, corresponding with the south shore of the island, while clifls or steep banks rise from their southern margins, corresponding with its abrupt northern coast. The flat top of Gibraltar Rock, at the head of Manitowaning Bay is worn into numerous large pot-holes. Some of these are upwards often feet deep, and six feet in diameter. Hard rounded boulders and stones were observed in the bottom of each, and out of some of them small trees had grown. Their eleva- tion is about 200 feet over Lake Huron. Rounded boulders, derived from the hard Huronian rocks of the north shore of Lake Huron* 14 Building stoiiea. Flajrstoncs. Whetstones. Cement. Quaitzite. Gypsum. are scattered more or less thickly over the whole island. They arc .sometimes perched on the brinks of the clilFs, from which they may be easily dislodged. No stratified clay, and but little stratified sand, was noticed upon the island. Well marked lake-terraces were observed around Wequemakong Bay, but their levels were not ascertained. Economic Materials. Building Stones. — Some bands of the Trenton limestone, at and near Little Current, would afford good building stone for houses^. Most of the upper half of the Niagara formation consists principally of light grey dolomite, in both thick and thin beds. It would make a durable and handsome building-stone. At the northwest point of the island, there are some beds in the lower part of the same formation, of a light greyish-buff color, quite soft and easily worked. Judging from the natural exposures, it is evident that the stone is very durable. Some portions of the Guelpli dolomite, along the southeast part of the island can scarcely be distinguished from the stone from the same formation, which is so highly prized for building purposes, in the neighbourhood of Guelph. Flagstones. — The lowermost stratum of the Niagara formation, or that immediately overlying the red marl, is very thinly and evenly bedded, and the joints are far apart. Many of the beds have smooth surfaces, ;ind appear well adapted for flagstones. Whetstones. — The fine grained sandstone layers in the Hudson River marls at Cape Smyth, like those in the same formation in the county of Grey, are suitable for making whetstones. Hydraulic Cement. — Some of the harder beds near the top of the Hudson River formation, and some of those belonging to the Trenton in Manitowaning Bay, weather yellow, and appear as if they would make water-lime. Quartzitefor Glass-makinix. — The Huronian quartzite, forming the bare ridges at She-gua-an-dah Bay, is white, and apparently free from impurities, and there is an unlimited quantity of it for this purpose. Gypsum. — This mineral is said to occur in promising quantities on the east end of the island, about three miles south of Wequcma- kongsing, but as this information was only communicated to me as we were leaving the island, it was found impossible, to visit the loca- lity. In the same geolog^'^al position, on the east side of West Bay, about a mile ar i a half from Metch-ke-\ved-enong, small quan- tities of gypsum occur in the limestone, near the junction of the Hud- son River and Clinton formations. 15 Salt. — Springs of saltwater are reporled as occurring upon Barrie .••'ait. Island, but ihcy may probably be only such bitter saline waters as are generally met with in these lower rocks. Bituminous Shales. — Some years since, as described in the Geology fj't"">inou8 of Canada, page 784, attempts were made at Collingwood to manu- facture oils by distilling the bituminous shale of the Utica formation, and it was then found that oils could be profitably made from it, when the refined illuminating oil brought seventy-five cents a gallon. On the Manitoulin Island this rock appears to be more bituminous tlian at Collingwood, and in the event of mineral oils reaching a comparatively high price, it may be found valuable for their manu- facture. Petroleum. — Springs of petrolenm have been found on the south retro.eum. .-tide of Wequemakong Bay, where three or four wells are now being sunk. One of these is now (7th May, 1866,) upwards of 500 feet deep. It starts upon the Hudson River rocks, probably about the middle of the formation, and passes through the Utica and Trenton strata. A hard quartz rock (probably Huronian) has now been reached. Oil, accompanied by gas, was found at various levels, and up to the present time, it ai)pears that seventy-two barrels of oil have been dipped up by the sand-pump, during the progress of the boring. Surface oil is said to have been found at Bob's Portage, on the east side of Manitowaning Bay, and also in She-gua-an-dah Bay, and upon Strawberry Island. A i)etroleum spring, on one of the islands north of Maple Point, is referred to in your General Report of 1863. In the General Report, pages 523 and 790, there are notices of a bi- t3iiin.cn. tuminousdolomitic limestone, a specimen of which had been brought from Grand Manitoulin Island, containing about eight per cent, of solid bitumen or mineral pitch. It was there pointed out that this might be used, like the similar asphaltic limestones of Switzerland and of Italy, for the preparation of mastic pavements. The precise locality of tliis bituminous limestone has not, however, as yet been discovered. I have the honor to be, Sir, Your obedient servant, Queen's University, Kingston, 7th May, 1866. ROBERT BELL.