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Les cartea. planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent itre film6s A des t«ux de reduction diffirents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul ciichA. il est film* * partir de I'angia sup*rieur gauche, cSe gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images n*cessaire. Les diagrammas suivants illustrent la m*thode. 1 2 3 D 32 X 5 6 . :;.» i.,r„B j wn ij ; || IHj|tt|(, i , !gyj^ :?U--:--:.- HI The Hoiiori Sih, — I eon's Bay E I doeire from Dr. Bt and also inn Mr. Fox anc tlio scoiiory at maav poi Dr Bel Append Ungava Baj which he ha officer of the Of the pleasure to r tliem in the i The Rej. l«t. Nai 2nd. ^a 3rd. Ret 4th. Tra 6tih. Nal 6th. Pro Appendi Append!: Slates Signal H lilFO JtT or Tirt injDSON'8 BAY EXPEDITION, DNDla rVV .'l.MMA.ID ov UEVT. A. R GORDON, T?.N , 1 884. METKflROLoaiCAI. OFi'IOE, ToiiONTO. Tte HonorMblo A. VV. McLblan, MinJKUu- Maritio and Finhorios, Ottavva. irJ^'Zn' £^Z:'^^!::7f'''^'^Tr "'' --P^«-ation which f received and alBo Vum M? \\^ W hC Lh. ^""'' ''^'l" ""^' '''"'»'%''«* *« 'he expedition Mr. Fox nTn- 'R«li .^A.'^ ' ::. .^l" ir_"^Pi'"'''\* -"^^ -rK,>iition u. » volunteer. Boti Both 9 and of the coast profile, ?L i-'T""^ '"''.'" -'^ri«"'<^'^ A to (his Roport. officer of the UnTud Statal anu/ "'^ P"nn,«B,o.. of Go.aral Hazon, the chief signal pleaauret rt)rthr\i;:;\iran§ ,t.t!^ ^' ''-expedition itg.ves me much The Heport Bubmttod herewith is divided into the foDowinK^ sections - l«t. Narrative. 2nd. ^.avigation-inclodng fee, Currents and Meteorological Observationn. 3rd. itesourcos of the Region. 4th. Trafle. 6th. Natural History, Inhabitants and Fauna. 6th. Proposed Work tor next Yoai. Appendix A.~Keport of JR. Eell, Eeq., M D F G S I have the honour to bo, Sir, , Yoar obedient servant, ANDREW E. GORDON, Lieut., R.N., ' Cotnmatidmj 11. B. Expedition. M. Tarner, Kwq., United The Honorable A. W. McLf.lan, Minitttor Marino ami FuherieH, Ottnwa. Sib, — I have (.he honour to report, relative to tho Hudaon'H Bay Expedition, that, in accordance with your letter of ' Halilux, N.S., and tojk charge of the On the 14th of tho same month Cunurd and Co. : — instructions, dated 5th July, 1 proceeded to reparations for the expedition, received tho following note from Messrs, S. ? " Halifax, N.S., 14th July, 1884. 'Lieut. A. K. (tobdon, R.N., " Halifax, N.S. " Deak Sm, — In accoidunce with instructions received from MesBrs. Job Bros., we " this day hand over to you the S.S. 'Neptune,' " Yours truly, " S. CUNAED & CO., Agents." Tho "Ncptuno" having been placed at the ditipohal of the Deprtmont, th© groftttst dispatch vtus uf-<'d in coaling and putting on board the supplion for tho ex- pedition, and at two o'clocl^ in the alter noon ol Tae.'^day, 22nd July, the coals, lumber and otiicr supplies being on board, the nionihers ol the expedition embarked, and one hour later wo loft our moorings at tho ilarine Whurf for lludson's Bay. The 8tiifl'of tho expediiion waK conipjscd as loUows: — Eobert BelJ, M.D., F.Cr.S., of OtlaM-u, geologist and medical officer. Met:(>ra. R. F. Stupart, of Toronto; C. E. Tuttle, of Winnipeg; W. A. Ashe, of Quebec; C. V. Debnuchcjvillo and A. is. Laperriere, of Ottawa; William Skynner, of Springtioii, Oni. ; U. M. Burwell, of London, Ont. ; and H. T. Bennett, observers. Mr. W. \V. Fox, ol Toronto, photographer. Messrs. Ytsidon, McNeill and Quigley, ciirpenters. " B.M.Eainsford, W.H^ Jordan, M. W. Keat- Esdailc, Andrew Met^ars. .R. Currie, J, Jf. Campbell, ing, Fjcd. JjivMlale, Jnn. W. Chaplin, John W. McDaniel, W. P Inglis, Adutu 5flahcr and Fobeit Ycuill, stationmen. " " ' ' ■ " " all winter, had each of them been ex The officers and men, who remained out anuned by medical men, and pronounced physically well-fitted to withstand the rigors of an Artio climate. The expedition toucho<< at Blano Sablon on the 26th of .Tuly,und on !he evening of Tuesday the i;9th an';htrcd in Ford's Harbour, at the east end of Paul'B liland. At this place I went on shore and arranged with Mr. Ford to pilot us into Nain. He boarded the " Neptune " at daylight the following morning, and by nine o'clock we had aucliored off the Nain Mission House. 1 visited this place in tho hope of obtaining furs for tho men who were to re- main ftt the stations during tho winter, and of being able to engage Eskimo inter- preters. J secured a few articles of fur clothing, but there were no interpreters to be had. 'ihvi Chief Superintendent of tho Mission told mo, however, that, ir, all probability, \ would be ahle to procure some fur clothing, and interpreters hb' wel - at the iluohoii's Bay Co.'s Post at Nachvak, still further to the north, on the Lab- rador coadt. Wo remained at Nain during the day and were kindly treated by the mission aries who, btisidc-j irapartiug religious instruction to tho natives, carry on an oxtensive trade with them. They have six stations in all on this coast, of which Nain is the capital, Tho others are Hopedule, Zoar, Hebron, Okkak and Earaah. During the day I took observations to ascertain the dip of the magnetic needle and vibrations for horizontal force, bat was unable to obtain sighis for the error of the chronometer or variation, owing to the inclemency of tho weather. During the voyage from the Gulf of St, Lfiwrence to this place wo met with a great number of icebergs, both in the Straiw of Belle Isle, and off the Labrador ooas'i, north of it. I.' ZU^Cj mmtt I III i The expedition left Nain about 4:30 o'clock on tho inorninL' of 3lHt Jnly. and reached Nachvnk Bay nhml noon on the Int of AngUNi, and cast anchor before the Hudson 8 Bay Co. 8 post at Niichvak, about 4 o'clock in the afWnoon. Here 1 met Mr George Ford, the apont of iho Hudhuu'rt Buy Ooraj.ar.v and u brother of our IN am pilot. l niiddlo of November in each year and that tor tl)o lat^i seven years ii has bro; on up within a day of the 2{ith of Juno in each year. On the 2nd of August, at daylight, wo left tho post at Nachvak, and aker taking Jlr. l.ane on boai-d at iho month of tho Buy, proceeded to Hoa for Capo Chi-Hey. On tlie morning of the 3id -.Sunday— tho fog was so dense that wo w..ro compelled to stand oil to sea, and lie to. Noon po.sition, lat. 60° 61' N., lon^^ t)4'^ 14' W. D R ' uT uH^ continuing, wo were obligo.l to lay to all day Sunday, all night Sunday night, all day Monday, and all night Monday night, off tho entrance to Hudson A A^ pfNition Monday, 4th Augu»t, D.R. lat 61" 12' N„ long. 64° 13' W At daylight on Tuesday, 6th August, the woatbor was clearing, and by sunrise it was bright and fair. At noon we wore approaching Caiu* Chidloy, having b.:on CftiTiedsome forty miles to the south whilst laying-to in tho f..g. We stoan.. d tHrongh Grey Strait, between the Cape and tho Button Islands, keeping u ck)ho look out tor a harbour. At three o'clock in the afternoon wo anchored in a fine harbour on tho north-western shore of the Cape, ».t tho entrance to Ungava Bay. On the shore of this harbour I selected the site for Obsei-ving Station No 1 and named the place Port Burwell, after the observer appointed lothat station. Two tamilies of Eskimos were discovered about six miles distant from Port Burwoll. Ihe work of landing lumber and supplies was begun at once, and by t o'clock on the afternoon of Eriday the 8th, the buildings wore up and all was in rcadines.-f for departure. I placed Mr.H. M, Burwoll, of London, Onts,rio, in charge of thin .taiion, with Messrs. Currie and Campbell as stationmen, and bosidon giving him full diroc- tions verbally, left with him, as also with each of the other observers, a copy of the following general instructions :— INSTBtJCTIONS TO 0FFICEK8 IN CUARoB OF STATIONS IN HUDSON'S B.\T AND STRAITS. th.^J'^^ P^i'°?;"y object ?f ^,b,« wl\«l« expedition is to ascertain f ,• what period of the year the Straits are navigable, all attention is to be paid to tho tos motion, break- ing up and movements of the ice. ' Each station is supplied with a sun dial and timo pioco, and ih" olork is to be tested each day when ther^ is sunshine about noon. A table of corr.'ctions is sap- plied tor the reduction of apparent timo to local mean timo, to this -ho diffe-enco of time will be applied to 75th meridian, all entries being made in tho time if this me- ridian, and obsei-vations will lo taken regularly at the following tim... tnronghout the year VIZ., 3 h. U8 m., 7 h. 08 m., 11 h. 08 m., a.m. an., p m. ^ Kach morning the sums and means of the observations taken on tho previous daj' will be taken out and cbeckoi over, they will then be enierol in the abstract books supplied for the piirpoo. After each observation during day light the obsoi ver on duty will take the teles- cope and carefully examine the Straits, writing down af ^/le le oomingitito their country. "~ *" -Cv=nfe MM Wo were delayed a good deal nt Anhe'H Infot by bad weather and by the field ico comitiK inio tho barb.ur and intcrforing with the work of landing lumbor and sun- plioH, butat M.orion tho Ifltii all waH m readiness for tho Ntart. I lolt with Mr ABho, for thy limo being. Mr. .Skynnor and hi^ two men, MoK-"^^''''^'!"°^.-^"**-r''^''™.^'^°'^ ^^ ^^^""^^ very heavy ioo, oxtemling fo- somotiftconur twenty miles eastward from :hat island ar.d Salisbury, filling th- ^ far 1 wo'"'^,'] I '' """'^' ''''^ extending southward towards Capo Wolstonholm ., no lar us wo COUKX SCO. On approaching ^.ho harbour WO had tho mnfortuno to break ono blade off tin propeller. Fortunate y aspare f.u had been brought in tho ship, :u,d beyond t - work enta.l.d by nn.h,ppi.,g tho broken one, fitting the shaft i.Nho new one a i getting It into position, which occu,,icd the ongl, oers'about throo a;.y., we sufibrxl »o damage m cor,8e(inoncc. ^ ' ■"'"o^'J'-i Soon after our arrival at Nottingham wo sighted four vos.ols in tho ch.nn..) be- l?J^ V J^^'-'^'^P'''-'.''^ ""'''■ *^"°"^''^t'^""«t" ot-^'-rvo th;u sho W.1S bark rigged, and moba! ,- ae outgoing Hu.iHon H^^y Company's vcs.cl, and to another In American wl^nling .Caooner, to exchange -aluteswith hor by dipping ensigns bnnHlIt^^T^^"'".f^'" atNottinlham Island, The worE^of ^3 g Btation buildings and landing the snnplies occupied us until the morning of tho 29th, when at tif^l^i '';" ' ^'""ll^ ^''^''' kr"" "^ ^'' C- ^'- I>^'Bouchervillo, the observer a, pointed t, Slofr; n'^p"' men, fessrs Esdaiie and Tngli., we loft tho harboui- 'Sh I Isiind I'^^Boacherv.lIe, and steamed out among tho ico towards Mansfield r««,3!fT'^^^''''"'''''^*"-''^'"'5'^*'*'"''y''"'^ olosoly packed, 80 much so that after ramm-.Dg our way some five nules out, and while yet within sight of the harboui we were .■ompelled to lay to until tho change of tide should loosen it. After thi3iou7s^ W tif ' ""? T'" ^T ".^'"'^ ^'^^ the Engines, tho ico having rurfabroad a HtUo STLtmX'ornf "' '''''' "' "^ ""'^ ^'''^ ^'^ ^^« ^- -'^ -™ --P«»«d ti laV Soon after daylight on Saturday morning, tho 30th, we « original plan,^a .station was to havo been l^:i H^LSirtS '"o-tTlh? "' ^^'"f Jhoroa without finding an anchT- 15-, A a.,.. „ss.,mh , G i^lOCa. ID the OTCninfJ, tO abandon it nltOfffithpr nnrl nnuK Moanwhilo, howovor, I propofl«d to oxamlno the flhorcB of Southampton Iiilaiid winch licH to tho ijortli-wowt of MunHtiold, with a view of UhcorUininK if that would be a moro Huitablo pliico for a atation. I did this on SiinJuy. Hkirtin; the Houth-cwit fihoro from Cape .Southampton, Homo fifty miKm, without lii.dn/.' an ai.choraffo « ,*>o then directed our coiirHo towanlB tho north west of thi'bay, . , onlor to visit Marble Island, and to see if the northern pari of tho bay w .. Iroe oi ico At noon on tho first day of Soptombor wo were otf tho .^mth of C awtorfu'ld Inlot. no iua having boen Hi:^htod. ' Wo tbon boie up for Marble Island, wh.^ro wo arriwJ oarly in tho momini? of ind .Soptombor, and anchorcl in iho WhaloiH' Harbour at the south-wost of tho island and romuined until .sevon o'clo( k in the evening. ' During the day I took obsorvutions to uscortain the latitude nn-1 lonijifudo. tho variation tt tho compass and tho dip of the magnetic noodle, and in tho uflornoon made a hun-iod sui vey of the harbour. Wo were Homowhat disappointed ut cot finding native or othor inhabitants on the island, and eurpiihod ut eeoing bo many ovidencoM of tho doiid, thcro boin" no loos han nmotoen graves on Dead Man't Mand, which forms tho southern si.to of tho harbour and u monument comm ; • I must acknowledge the extreme kindness and generous attention ext'-.nded to the oxps ditioii by the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company at Churchill Thoy did all in ihoir power to make our visit pleasant, and to supply mo with fur clothing &c >V arrived in sight of tho beacon at York Factory on tho morning of the 1 1th' and anchored in t'-o roadstead, some eighteen miles distant from the F.-ictorv at ton o clock in the forenoon, and signalled for a York boat, which was pushed oft at onoo but which, owing to conti-ary tide and wind, did not reach ua until So'dock in the evoning. Mr. Cowio, chief accountant of tho post, acoomnanied thft boat out -Ar-'r. he i^iadir undertook to take na in and bring us but again the next'day." Wo 'Jtived at; ttm IIWiAM ton THlaod, 'h«t woakl HOUt,h.(«Rt ago. or to visit At noon lut, no )uo loming of lio iiilund, ongitudtt, aflornoon jilantH on ^s no loua i'lo of tbo ''ttd been by Oapt. • hurboar. I. made ind, AT? niiice tho id a vory low zero, t cnmo to out of it liorae if ing with Kiver on ot boing ay-to off steamed 11, of Mr. with Mr. 3 tho re- t, to pay fibont 7 ^.ndod to 'hoy did ing, &e. he nth, r, &i ton at onoo, c in Iho J kindly at the KoiU'Scuo, tho ch'ol' factor at that rocoivod by all tho oflioors of iho Fact <>ry about 3 oVlook on tho morning of tbo 12th, and loft again at 3 in tho afternoon. Mr. Wood, Htorokoopor at York, liaa boon observer in connection with tho nioloorological offlco for homo yoaiH. I compared IiIh inntrumontH and adjusted them, and found h.s metooi'ologica! work all well done, and tho obHori^or much iotoreatod in the work. I obtained some additional oiothin^-; irom Mi-, post, and, au at Churchill, was most hospitably company. Wo reached the "Noptuuo " in tho Voile boat about 5 o'clock in tho evening of tho 12tb, and woigLod atich' r at 7, and shaped oui- ooui-ne for Cape Diggos. Wo found a good hartJiir on tho soiitli-wostorri oxtromily of Iho largoi DiggoB Island, and anchored on tho morning of ihu IClh. Iloro J .Jecidod to place a station, in charge of Mr. Laperriero, and called tho placo Ijapovrioro Harbor. 1 regarded the 5)laco us most suitable for a companion elation to that oi I'orL DoBouchorville. Tho lietiinoe bolwoon tho two is about forty-five milos, ami, as the vast slrotchoa of ice that wo mot with botwoon Nottingham and t^iggoi o.i both (bo oiitward and homo- war 1 voyago.s, made that channel a point ot (ho ;^ioul.o»t imjwiancc, I con.sidor it as d. sirable that tho two stationn (should bo est:ibli«od tliore. On the morning of 2 ah 8o))U>mbor, tho buiiJiu„s having boon completed and supplies landed, 1 proparoi for loparuuc, Mr. Luponioru was plui ed in chargo of tho station, with Mossrn.Ciuigly and Mahor a.s nlationmoii. i Hubslitutw! Air. Quigly, one of the carponters, for Mr. Youill, whoho condition of health rondoroi him unlit, to bo left there. On the homeward voyago the expedition touched at Port DoBouchorville, Aabo'a Inlet and Stupart's Bay, leaving Huch furs and other clothing as I hud obtained for tho comfort of tho men. At Awho'^ Inlet I took on board Messrs. Skynnor, Jiaiusford and Jordan, and left with Mr. Afho, Messrs. Keating and DrysdaIo,the men originally intended for that station. From Stupart's Bay wo made for Ro.solution Island, hoping to bo ablo to place a station on the shores of that island. Arriving on tho wosl coast of tho island on the raorning of tho .'o'th of .September, we i;oisted along in search of a harbour. At 9 o'clock ji boat was sent in to examine a bay that promised well. The vcssol followed some distano ovapora'ed fruits and vegctubh-s woro spoken of as feeing of an excellent quality. i^y-^^u , i aa We continued the homoward voyage from Port Burwoll at 3 p.m., on 29th Son- tembor, carrying the ebb tide with m through Grey Strait for Nachvak- Bay At noon of the 30th wo anchored in a covo on the north side of the entrance to the bay, and having selected a sit^ for the ho.iso, proceedod at once witlx its eroction and with the work of landing tlie stores. « x iw or^cxion On Saturday evening the -iih October, the work was cu-Tiploted, but as it had been a week of unusually hard work for ail hands, I hy in harbour till daylight on Monday morning the 6th, when we proceeded to sea for St. Johns, Newfoundland whore wo arrived on the morning ot Saturday, iho ITth, and having deUveiod the flhip up to the owners. Messrs. Job Bros.\t Co, I took passa:I.-o," sailing thatji^y for Halifax. Navigation. ^.rr-^^r ''^%]T l'^"" ^'iPPOsotJ, hitherto, to bo the most formidable barrier to the J^?.r^ tk'' • ' f'""-:' ^"^'^' '''''?'°' disappears, to a great extent, under investiga- t on. The ice met ^ylth on the cruise of the " Neptune '• may be divided into thFco classes-having distinctly .cp.uuto origins. They are : icebergs from the glaciers of *ox Channel ; heavy arctic Held ice from the channel itself, and what may be called flSits'^ "' ^"^'^"'''''^^'"^ ^'"" ^°™'^ ^'^ ^^^ shores of the bay and We met no icebergs in lludson'h Bay, nor did I hear of any being seen there. In the straits a good rnany were seen, principally along the north shore, whore many of tHem were stranded in the c )vcs, ^nd some were met with in mid-channel Of those Beeninthoeasternendoftlio slrjiits, some liad nnioubtedly come in from Davis' Straits, passing between Renoiuiion Island and East Biair; but all of those met to the westward had come from Vok. Chiuncl, as observations made by Mr. Aahe at North Bluff, show, that an iceberg cornl.g insight from the westwaid will paTs outof view- to tho eastward in from three to four tides, showing an easterly tet of upwards of ten miles a day. The icebergs seon in_Th.^'on's Strait" in August and September. would form no greater barriers to navigation than do those met with off the Straits o'' Bello Benels[e'^°'"° in^i'O numerous in Hudson's Straits than thoy frequently are off The ordinary field iV,o was met with off North Bluff and tho Upper Savages on the 11th of August. This --co, though it would have compelled an Sina ry Sn steamer to go d^ad slow, gave no trouble to tho " Neptune," the mate on watch lun- «ing the ship at full speed through between the pans, rarely touching one of them Just before enter ng Ashe's Inlet we had to break through a lieavy tTipg"which wS' however, done without in tho slightest degree injuring the ship lu the harS (Ashe In ot) the ice cmo-in, with the flood tide, and set so fa'^ hat the S m J were able to walk off to the nhip, a distance of three-quarters of a mle oSo south shore onr experience was much tho same, but no ice was met with th^oiuth 1 which the ship could not have forced her way without damage. In the centi o of the Btraite to the east of xNorth Bluff, no field ice was seen at alt, and after leav L Su! part s Bay, on the outward voyage, although the vessel lay-to for the nightYn the ici It was only to wait for daylight, and not because the ice 4as too heavy. Th s nack extended about eighteen miles out into the straits, and after getting over this S tance wo came into clear water. From this point to Ch.arl«« fgiand °rT*Wf pT^ tbeend of Salisbury Island, long strings of ica were frequently seen; but ^theS direction was invariably parallel to our course, or nearly so, we coasted roun?thom On the homeward voyage none of this field ice was seen. The Eskimo both at So Inlet and Stupart's Bay, informed mo that there was an unuHually L'reat quantity of 1C3 in the s.raitH this year, and that they had never seoti the ico han| to the shoroH so late in the neaBon, ° The Heavy Arctic Ice.— After passing the east end of .S'aliMbury Inland the ico ^t heavier and closer, and when ofi^ Nottingham Island the pack was 80 r.m together that 1 determined to give up the attempt to force the ship through it, acd workinc out again headed more to the southward. In making in for the laiUl horo wo brokl the propeller but succeeded la taking the ship into harbour with the ntiimps. Viewed from the top of a hill on Nottingi,am Island tho soa in every direction was one vast ice field, and to the Pouthward, between South east Point and Cane J^iggCB, wo Baw lour vessels fast. This ice was ailogethor of a d i flereut type to what we hud hitherto met with. Some of it was over 40 foot thick of solid blue ico, not field ICO which had been thickened by piling of pan on pan, but a solid shoot of ico which had evidently been frozen just as wo saw it. Much of it Avas 20 foot thick, and for tho gODeral .average of all the field wo pi-.ssedthrou;rh coming into harbour, I estimate that the ihickneBH would have been upwards of 15 feet. Tho question as to (ho origin ol this ICO and whether it will bo frequently met with in tho west end of tho Straits is an important one ; for in such ice, when closely paokod, a vossol oven of the build and power of tho Ncptunt /as perfectly helpless. I. do not consider that it is possible for ico to form in Fo.^ ch.miiel to a greater thickno'^s than 10 foot in a single year, and I foe convinced that much of tho ico which wo encountered was tho accumulation oi several years. • V^l W^ ^° ^^''^'^ ^'^'^'' ^"^ ^^'^^^'^ '''**''> ^'^ f'li' a« I J^now, never yet boon deter- mined, but it is certam that ico being a very poor conductor of heat, when once a certain thickness of leo has Icon formed, tho rate of thickening will bo very slow In regard to this point, inoasuiemonts of tho formation of ico will bo made at somo of tho observing stations in Hudson's Straits this year, wTiich will assist in finally dotermin- mg this question. "^ If, as soema probable from the reports of tho Hudson's Eay ships, (his year and Ia8tycarhaveboonox3optionallyhcavy icoyoars, itis loasonablolo poncliide that only occasionally does this heavy \\>k Channel ico appear in ITiKlson's Straits Anotberpiccoofconfirmatory evidence a>i to the exceptional natiiro of tho ice mot within the northern part of the Bay this year is the stutoment in Capt. Fisher's letter found at Marble Island and quoted in tho narrative portion of ray report, that he had been unablo to roach, up to tho date of his letter, tho oast shore, or to go up the Wolcomo on account of the ice. 1 '^'^*','^«'''^our ico forms at Churchill ou tho averago about tho middle of November and breaks up about the middle of June. As this is tho only known harbour on the west coast of the bay, these times may bo taken as marking the oxtrcme limits of tho eeason during which it would be possible for a ship to enter and leave the harbour, ,. , '^.^u ^ l^.M ^° ^^^^> ^^'^^ ^^'^ ^ ^^^^ making tho passage from Cape Chudleigb. direct to Churchill instead of coasting and working across tho straits, I do not con- sider that 1 should have boon delayed by ico, more than forty-eight hours : but no ordinary iron staaniGhip, built as tho modern freight carrier is, could have got through tbo heavier ice that we mot without incurring serious risk, if not actual disaster. bince tho foregoing was written, I havo received a copy of tho Report of Lieut. iCay, United States Siijnal Service, to tho Chief Signal Officer, on tho conduct of tha observations at Point Barrow in tho Arctic. He gives as tho greatest thickness of ioa lormed in one season 6 foot 2 inches. At Point Barrow the formation of ice on thOBhore IS certainly influenced by tho pussago of a current of warm water paesinff through Behnng Straits and setting northeast. • if'i.^ Channel has no such advantage, and I still think it possible that a sheet of ice 10 foot m thickness might be formod tliore in one season. T f "The Compass. —In working through tho straits, especially at tho western end, 1 lonnd the ordinary compass so sluggish as to bo almost useless. Tho Sir Wmi Ihomson card, however, worked admirably when properly compensated. 10 Tho reason of tho difficulty with the compass is, that from tlio proximity to gnetic polo tho horizontal directive force of tho earth's magnetism, which ah •i the magnetic polo tho horizontal directive tbrce of tho earth's magnetism, which alone directly aiifects tho compass needle, is very small compared with the whole magnetio force; consequently, tho effect of induced magnetism in the iron of the ship on the compa<<.s becomes very large in comparison with tho direct action above mentioned; the result being, that in an imperfectly compensated compass the error due to local ivitraction is very greatly increased. Too means of correcting this error in tho Sir Wm. Thomson binnacle are perfect and easily mastered, and tho system is such that the compass can, after tho first ▼oyage or two, be perfectly compensated "by using certain proportions of soft iron bars and magnets, as correctors, the proportion having to bo determined by actual observation and experiment on the voyage. All steamships making the voyage through the straits should have one of those compasses as a standard, and the captains should familiarise themselves with the methods of correcting them, and as often as opportunity offcra take azimuth obaorva- tioDS, both stellar and solar. Currents, Off the entrance of Hudson's Strait I found tho current setting to tho southward, During the two days whilst lying off in fog, tho wind was very light, and the drift of the ship must have been almost entirely due to the current. In tho forty-eight hours lying-to, the ship was set forty miles to the south of her position by dead reck- oning. This is a somewhat grcnter amount of southerly (:et than the Admiralty directions indicate, and ships approaching the entrance of the straits would, in thicK •weather, have to do no with great caution. At Port Burwell, near Capo Chudloigh, the tide rises and falls, at springs, about 19 feet, and the current in Grey Strait, botwoen the Button Islands and the Ga])e, flows at tho rate of about lour knots an hour ; and when a strong breez3 is blowing against the tide, a vory nasty and confused and breaking sea gets up, which fishing schooners might find dangerous. At Ashe's Inlet, near North Bluff, the tide rises and falls 32 feet at springs. There is a tide-race olf the Blufi", and within three miles of the shore the velocity of the tide currents is very great, sometimes reaching six knots. At Stupart's Bay, near Prince of Wales Foreland, the rko and fall of the tido is 28 feet. Tho tides of this coast do not show as high velocities as on the north side, probably owing to the water being shoaler. At the western end of the straits the tides also run with great velocity. The rise ■nd fall at Nottingham Island, at spring tides, is 14 feet, and Cape Diggos .nbout 10 feet. At tho entrance of Port Churchill there half-tide, I estimate at seven knots. is a tidc.race, tho velocity of which, at Meteorological. The meteorological work, which is to I done at tbo stations, is as follows : — Observations will be taken six times a day, of height of barometer, temperature of the air, temperature of wet bulb thermometer, velocity and direction of tho wind, reading of hair hygrometer, cloudiness, with record of amount and kind of cloud, *nd direction of its naovemont, and rain and snow full. Water temperatures will also bo taken. Tho times of observation are at equal intervals of four hours, and so ficlectod that three of thorn are synchronous with the regular telegraphic series i^ken ly the obsorvors of the Meloorological Service. Complete observations were taken on board durini^ the voyage and, for the purpose of illuatrating iho weather which was mot with in Hudson's Straitpi, I niiail compare it with that oxporionced at Belle Isle, a station of the Meteorological Ser- vice, and in the regular trade route between Quebec and Europe. ? 5 ] } 11 for the I hltaii ■i For the first period from Ist to 3l8t August.— The "Xoptano" was, on Ist August, at Nachvak Bay, within 100 milea of tho east end of the StraitH an'!, on riOth August, had juat left Nottingham iHlaud on the west end, 80 that tho month of August was tipeat in tho straits region. The following table 18 compiled from tho Meteorological Records : — Belle Ijle Hudson's Straits. Straits. Number of days on which fog is recorded 1:{ 9 Approxim.ito number of hours of fog 2ii0 102 Dayd on which snow fell 4 Days on which rain fell 10 8 Days on which wind oxcoeded 25 miles per hour, but did not reach 40 6 5 Days on which wind exceeded 40 miles 2 1 The month of August thus shows favourably for Hudson's Straits, the fo^ thei-o being reported on six days only, as against thirteen days in Belle Isle ; and tho total number of hours of fog being respectively 102 in Hudson's Straits, and Belle Isle, 220; and if ibe duration of the snow storms in Hudson's Straits, nineteen hours, bo added to the number of hours of fog, it still shows favoar&bly. The num- ber of gales also la six at Belle l&lo for five in the straitsj and of heavy gales, two at Belle Isle, and only one in the straits. Tho following comparison for September is between Station No. I, at Cape Ghadlcigh and Belle Isle : — Belle Isle Hudaoa's Straits. Straits. Number of days on which fog is recorded 7 4 Approximate number of hoars of foe 82 34 Days on which snow fell 3 8 Days on which rain fell 15 6 Days on which velo<;ity of wind was between 26 and 40 miles per hour 4 5 Days on which velocity of wind was 40 miles or over per hour 11 3 Days on which any snow fell are put down as snow days, though rain as well as Bnow may have fallen on those days. In the character of the weather, therefore, for the two months (August and September) so far as it aCects navigation, Hudson's Straits compare favourably with the Straits of Belle Isle, there being eleven heavy gales at Belle Isle against three in Hudson's Straits, and more than double the amount of fog. The mean temperature of the month at Cape Chudleigh for xlugust was 39" j for Belle lAe, 49" 67 ; and for September, Cape Chudleigh, 32°-76 ; Belle Isle, 43°*1. Beports formerly received from ihe Labrador Mission Stations give higher moan temperature for those months, but those stations may be considered as almost in- land stations in the character of their weather, and would thus show bctth higher tompeiaturo in summer and lower in winter than an insular station like Bello Isle. I have received, through the courtesy of the Chief Signal Officer of the United States Signal Service, copies of the obseivations taken at Fort Ohimo, in Ungava Bay, by Mr. Lucien Turner, who has spent two years there, and the winter tempera- tax«t« given in these will not, I think, greatly differ from those in the Straits. These tables form Appendix B to this report. The following table gives the weather experienced- in Hudson's Bay, from the iBt to {6th September : — Cape Bigges and Marble Island, Mean temperature. Seplemb-v 1.— Pair weather, light N.E. winds 43° " 2.— Firio and chu'lj p.m. with strong N.B. wind 42° ** 3.— Rainy weiithpr, moderate gale from S.E 40° 12 Off Churchill. Septombcv 4. — Eainy weather, strong galojfrom N.W 40" '' 5. — Cloudy weather, Htrong gule from N.W 40* " 6.— Cloudy, light rain, light N.W. wind, thick weather 395** At Churchill. Soptomber [^T.— Fine weather, light S W. wind 42^ «• 8.— Fine weather, light N.W. and S.W. wind 44° " 9.~Fivir cloudy weather, moderate N.K, wind... 41'-^ York. September lO.—Oloudy weather, light rain, mod. S.B. wind.. 40^ " 1 J. --Fair weather, modorate N.B. wind , 41" " 12.— Fair weather, light S. wind 4fi" York to Digges. September 13.— Fair woatb ., light N.B. wind ... 42° " 14.— Fog in a.m., fine p m., light N.E. wind 35° " 15.— Foggy weather, 8trone N.W. wind 34*' " 16.~Fair weather, light N.B, wind. , Si° The above shows one gale lasting nearly three days, viz., the Srd, 4th and 5th, and two days on which jbg ofxurred. On the 14th the tog lasted from 9 a.m. to nearly 3 p.m., closing dowa again early oa the morning of the 15th and continuing thick fog till fibout 3 p.m. Sea Temperatures. The temperature of the surface water off Belle Isle on 25th .Tuly was 41-6 which gradually decreased as we proceeded northward to 34-7 on 4th August, off the entrance to Hudson's Straits. On the homeward voyage these temperatures wore, oflF Hudson's Straits 32'5 on 29lh September, and abreast of Bello Isle, but some distance to the eastward, 36° ou 9th October. In Hudson's Straits, the mean surface temperature, as obtained from observa- tions taken when the ship was at sea, was, on the west-bound voyage, found to bo 82.9, the highest mean of a day's observations was ,33 3, and the lowest 326. On the homeward voyage the lowest daily mean wati 31-8 and the highest 33". The highest temperatures were in each case observed at the eastern end ot the straits and the lowest olf Nottingham Island. In the bay the surface temperatures varied much with the ^'oographioal positions, being 39-4 off Marble Island, 41° off Cape Churchill, 39-7 about 100 miles north-east of York Factory, observed whilst steaming acro.sH to Cape Difffwe. and 36° off the south end of Mansfield Island. Hudson's Bay may therefore be regarded as a vast basin of comparatively warm water, the eft*ect of which mast be to considerably ameliorate the winter climate to the south and east o.f it. The resident factor at Churchill informs me that the bay never freezes over so far out from bhoro, but that clear water can be seen ; and as the temperature of the water must be above 29'8 Faht. (the freezing point of salt water) when at the same time the temperature on shore is b-jlow zero, we have a set of conditions which will cause a regular area of low barometrifi prftSH'.irft trs rftRiaJn over the hr.y during the winter, with prevailing west and north-west winds and very cold weather on the west and north west of the bay, as shown by observations at York Factory; whilst ou the opposite side of the bay winds from south-west, south and southeast would provaiL \ T .'j w ai th it( of di in of hi ai ? - i 13 32-6 5° on In conolndinffthistho motoorolo;Trical partion of the report, T would point out that Bofar HH motoorological conditionHftroconcornod, the bay has boon proved naviff- able early in Juno. The barque « Geor{?o and Mary" Hawed out on the 7th Juno of this year, and waw orui'?ing under will from that date onwards in the northern part of the bay, Surveyin(j]Work, At; Station No. 1, Tort Jkrwoll, near Capo Chudloigh, the harbour and partof th« adjacent ooawt wan surveyed l)y Mr. W. A. Anho, D.L.S., who was one of the observers app.oifKed t,o the o.Kpediiion, and I have p, opurod Bailing directions for entering tho port. Alf. Asho also surveyed tho harbour at Station No. 3 (Ashe Inlet). At all tlio other ptulions in (ho btraifc: I have mync^lf, bosidos making determinations of position, variation ynddip, made snrvoya of tho harborH, and written out the necessary sailing directions for entering the ports. J also tnade a hurried survey of tho harbour at Maiblo Isliicd, and have obtained a copy of a plan of Churchill Harbour from one of the Hud.son a Bay Company's offloerh. C.ipios of all these I will furnish yon with, hereafter, when I have had time to complete the final reductions and recopy the plana. Eesourcei of the Region of Hwlson's Bay and Strait. As to the resources of these waters, I Imvo the honor to report: 1. That the economic fish and raammpis of those waters are the whale, poipoiw^ walrus, narwhal, seal, salmon, trout, cod, and a varietv of small fish, ■ 2. That the only fishing industries developed so far are, the whale fishery by the Americans, and tho porpoise, walrus, salmon and trout fisheries by tho Hudson's. Bay Company. 3. That th.e chief whaling ground is tho Rowo's Welcome, a vast basin in the north-western portion of Hudson's Bay. Hero tho American whalers, chiefly from Massachusetts and Connecticut have been conducting a very profitable fishery for aaore than a quarter of a century, and are still in active operations. The report of the United States Commissioners of Fish and Fisheries for 1875-fi states, that during the eleven years preuoding 1874, about fifty voyages were known to have been made by whaling vessels from New England to Hudson's Bay, imi tu«r xeturne amounted to at least 81,371,000, an average of $27,420 per voyage, which, as mo^^t of the vessels engaged in tho trade are comparatively small sailing vjssete, Bho m a larfio margin for profit to those engaged in iho business. And if we allow «a nvorage of three vessels per annum since the date of the roturrs up to tho present year, we have S822,600,a8 the value of tho oil and bone taken by our neighbours from the wators of Hudcon's Bay since tho date of the report above quoted, mukint' a frand total of $2,193,600. ' ' The wintering quarters of these whalers is at Marble Island, on the north-westwm ooaat of Hudson's Bay Tho whaling ships, generally, leave Atjssachasetts or Con- necticut in July, and reach the island some time in September, where Ihoy winter in a well sheltered harbour, and saw out of tho ice in June of tho following spring-. They then ^vress northward as fast as tho nioving ice will permit, nntil tho whaling ground is reached, where thoy fish until tho 1st September, and then sail for home, with their ships well loaded with blubber and bone. One or two whaling vessels. And ocoasionilly more, winter at Marble rsiand each year. Although this industry is, as yot, comparatively small, lam persuaded that, from the large profits realized by those ongaged in it, from the ample opportunities for ate extension, and the increased attnnfion which is now being given to the resources of the Hudson's Bay region, a much larger number of vessels will, nndoubtedly, be drawn into it at an early day. I am satisfied that there are large numbers of whales in these waters, from the faot that wa mot wi*h tJirsm oontir-aally durin- the eruiso of the " Neptune," and bocanse, so far as I can learn, those engaged in the oatob have never yet been compellwl to return with'Mit a fair cargo. The bark "George and Mary," CapU Fisher, of Connecticut, wintered at tho Island last season, sawedL u oat of tho ico on tlio Tth of last Juno, and Huocoodocl in taking throe whale« in tho open waters of Hudson's R:iy boforo reaching tho " Wolcomj." Considering that five or six of thoao mamnnlrj woald complete her cargo, it is easy to see that this fishory is by no moans falling otf. 4 Of tho fii^bories carried on by the Hudson'ri Bay Company, that of the porpoise 5h tho most oxtensivo. The biubbor of thoae mammals weighs from 250 to 400 poundH, and is very rich in the finef«t of oil. Last year tho company secured nearly 200 in ono tide at Churchill, and a much larger number at Ungava Bay. Thoy have ostabliphed extensive rofinerios at soveral of their nortbei-n stations, and instead of exporting the blubber in bulls, a« formerly, refine it, shipping tho pure oil in ca.sks. The porpoises are not shot or har- pooned, as is tho case with the walrus and whale, but aro grounded on the flats in cove.s, where the tide men 10 or 15 feot or moio, and where, by moans of trap nets, they are held in chock until the water recedes, leaving them high and dry on tho boulders and sam! The process is very nimplo and inexpensive. The company also carry on a walrus hunt, sending two" sloops annually from Churchill to two very productive walrus grounds, north of Marble Island, where they have never failed to Bocuro as much blubber, ivory and hides as their little vessels will carry in a few weeks. They took between twenty and thirty of those animals the })roHont season. On this trip they also meet tho northern Eskimo, and carry on a very valuable trade with ilitm, eiohanging powder, shot, &c., for ivory, oil, musk ox robes, and other dhr8. Quo of the members of tho expedition was furnished with an estimate of tho •value of the oil secured in the Hudnon's Bay region last year by the company and Iho American whalers, which, although I had no moans of verifying it, in probably within the mark. It places the value of the export at $150,000. I am satisiied that the w«hu8 and porpoise fisheries may bo developed to almost any extent ; and as in- creased attention is sure no A to be given to this industry, we may rely upon ita almost immediate extenaion. We mot with walrus in great numbers at the wet^tom end ol the strait. In one afternoon, while steaming from tho Digges Islands to Nottingham Island, wo found between fifty and a hundred of them on tho ico, 5. The company is also engaged at several points, particularly at Ungava, in til© Balmon and trout fisheries. Theso excellent fith abound in vast quantities in nearly all the streams, and aro generally most plentiful at certain seasons just above and near the head of tide, where tho salt and fresh waters mingle. From what I «ould learn of this industry, I conclude that it is but the beginning of what will, in ihe near future, become an extensive and profitable business. At the present time the Hudson's Bay Company have a eleamer, called tho *«piana," which goes from London to Ungava Bay dired to ont€r Hadson's Straits, which would bo suSlcionL to cover tho duty, no that they may be placed on the pamo footing as tho Hudson's Bay Company ; for tho value of the trade in musk ox robes, cariboo robes, seal skins and ivory, forme no unim- portant part of the profit of tho whaling voyage. J 16 bo abloU^iypSufo^^^ "'' "'""•' "^ '''^'' °' •"^^'"* '^^ impartution, Hhonid «hn.Jif m.JL'"'^'"./'"' ^^-^ profitable establishraont of trading posts on iho soath fJr^wder! shot, &c ' '' '"'''*' ^ «^ ''P''''''"'^' ^^^^'^ "''"''' ^^'^'^ ^^''^°' MJd7w}iZu'Z^.r^ tho natives at North Bluff, that about tho Middle Savage *£^o q^l^Sof ivor/^ ^^^^ '^"^ "^^«^- '-^^'^''^ -^'^ ^h.to men, and who hid fioi.nS"*^^'""^''!^'^^'®^"''"'''^ '^^'^ ^° ^''^^■'■'^J o» ''^ pursuit of whale and porpoiBe «?riifr„r.l- 'Jk '^ '« ^ipf-^rtunato that none of tho profits derived from t are at prob«nt received by CanadianB. i"- "»o »t NATCKAL niSTOBY. 7%e Tnhahilants. «T.lx.l!l^^?° exception of people who may bo in charge of Capt.Spicors' station the only inhabitants of the straits and northern par' of the bay are the E.kimo. «.«« n?,] . } l"^® ""^ f^® ^^^""'^^ ^^^y ^''^^ *i'^''« familiar with the ways of white SI '"^ much pleased at tho pioHpcct^ of increased intercourse with ea^iTOwbir-aT,''! i,^o oV^em spoak English, whilHt s.mo others understand «^v arnnh,U.i.n • ^ ^^T' ''"* ''"^"'^ *^ 'l'^'^'^ ^^- ^^"V- are paitirnlarly fond of Svcd i ^?11 fl T^'' «'t^«r''«"«'» «/• w« >!^n. and tho head man at J^orth Bluff WM arrajcd in all tho glory of a stand-up linen collar. .„^ n.o.''* r AT ''^u "ilT 1°°',^''' »"»'a^^lo and willing to work. Whon landing tho stores ^L^^f "* ^^"'l^ ^'"'^, ^^^y ^"^^'^^ "'1 '^«y "long with our lacn, carrying heavy tIkSl f j'i!,!'In'" V'° fO^H«' '"'J r';'''"^ as cheerily and heartily as could be, desired, taiciti^ their pay in biscuit, of which thev are inordinately fond, *l^n«« n^lf ^^^^^^'^^\ at tho station hcvtxj was about thirty, but daring ray jSSrs witKurTrt" ''^">'"«'^^ ^^^ ^^'^^^<^"' maintaining (he most fnelidij buciTwZhJm °° farinaceous food of any kind, and, as a consc(iuonce, the mothers 5mil !t!.? 7 ^' V *>^y ^^'^ ^'""^ t*^''«« to four years of age. The families are !^*lV„ ?r^^ ,^°'"S more than two or three children, and although early f^Ph^ I- • ^u 5°-^ ^^'^"^ ^^«™' ^ ^'^nnot l^^lP thinking that their numbers havj «^««nt ntCn ' 'n^rr't''? "^^ ^^'""^^ «'«"« ^^t^^^^ presence eve.ywhore; vet, except at Port Bnrwell, Ashe Inlet and Stuparfs Bay, none wero mot with. Aboat Sf.n J>! ■""*'' tf""'^ ^"•'.^*'^' ^^^'-^ '« *^« remains of what must once have been a largo Kskimo settlement, their subterranean dwellings being still in a fair state of ll^'^^.'T- ; M- ^^l present time, so far as I can loam, there are only some five or BIX IWvimo families between Cape Chudleigh and Nnchvak. Tirnr,t !°'\r • ^^^''^O'' coast tho Eskimo gather in small settlements round tho ?™ri^ T^'^u'^f '''°^- ^^ ^^°'^« P'^c«« '^"^^ numbers vary considerably. Nain SOoTuls '"^^^^ settlemont and its Eskimo population amounts to about These are all educated. They can read and write in their own language and the miSHionanes informed me that they wero regular attendants at church and are very lonaot music No alcoholic or other liquors are given to the natives by these miSMOuary traders; but they o ^casionally procure smallfquantities from Newfound- lana nsiiermen. It is, however, a rare occurence, and there is no record of any dis- ^K ^' or trouble over having been caused. ^ lr...n «,;fwi!°'^'''°°\"'"^ self supporting, the missionaries supplying the Eskimo on m^uTl wWi7^'"^.^v«''' ^I^I"' f^^':^ ""^'^ «^«-' «°^ pnchasing h-om them all their {^ o^V ,'* ,, '*?*'^' ^°^' salmon. f«rs or anything else. They are supplied *n n -7^ "^"""^ "''."'^ ^^« "Harmo-uy," which «aik from London each year.TisS ail their Mission stations and then returns, taking with her tho great portion of the Boaiioii 8 catch. The Newfoundland mail steamer makes several trips to Nain daring «ie summer of each year, but does not go any further north. 17 ««• • 11 „f "^'^^"'"f'^ theRO missionary traders and tLoir work, becau80 I am of opinion that the hy«t«m, when honourably carried oat, as it has b^ou and in o Tthe Labrador Coast is the one which best meets the wants of the native-, and ten.Is t » tho iraprovomont of their condition. « '" wu i.i u mo _ in spoakii.;: of tho inhabitants of tho straits, I mentioned more partinuhirly tho.e living on the uorthoin sido, but those mot with at St.ipart's IW wm-o equally tiact able and ready to assist in the work Thoy wore, howev.^r, fromloss f req?io t n oel ing with wime pooph, more simple, bat decidely more domonHtrative j their dcwS on being inlorraed that we wore Koing to build a station and leave a partx- arnoriff them was exhibited by tho.r formmi^r a circle round the interpreter and'da . im3 Bhouting like a lot ol school children. '' One word must bo said in regard to their honesty. Although scraps of i, (-n and wood poflscHfi a value to them which we can hardly appreciate, they wou i take no hmg without first anlcmg permission ; not oven a chip or a broken iTail w, /ff kou Sn'to take it '°"""''^ '"^ "'" ''^^ """^ °° ^"*^ ''' ^^' building fm'pcrm?"- As to the pernicious effects of their contact with American whalers. I Icl' to quote from the report of Lieut. Ray, of tho United States Signal Service wlv'^as m charge of the Obsorvatory at I'oi.it Barrow, premising thai I have everv roarn that their brothreu of the Pacific soon to huvo done. Lieut. Eay says — 'The safety of the station would be vmy much increased if tho law relalinfr to iirrlV" '^"^"^^'^'^ gf'l" ^y^^' ^t^'^l^ '"^n and traders on this coast cm d to eniorceu. ^ ■r- v ■•,'■ 4; «(t Ki»ii'«TT/> eforo the public of Camu'tt for Widou in 'crS vUh menti-nod objects, tho_ expedition w.uld « ford Wttliout inttitcnn„ wuu___^^ .„,.„k ,i„^i..ahl« information in roeaid to tho Kt:ology an o and The jaeBod tlu.ugh tho Slrmt tseo ^^1-- -^'-^--^-^he ^ixpedUi^^^^^ I'uIbo acted as for thm duty, aryla^HOt act as^m^^^^^^ purpoBCB. and provided n.y.olf with rotn'u^mont' l^S;yt%a^^^^^^^^^^ in caae o,po.tunitio. ^°' thf IxSuSof was'"i H meteorological ot.e,_ and Lieut. A. E. Gordon PTSX of thTbraSTtho pnblio%orvice, waH .elected tor tho cornrnand; and th« E.N., ot this '>'^""^"°,,\ ■,,,;,. .u. ,),.ovinceot the Departmont of Murine, ^ot• genoral n\anagome .t fell ^vahm ^^J'^^^^^^' .^^ cLmar.d, I raa.aged, while TaifJ t^rirc^SriCltrc^Ta^^^^^^^^ a«ai«tanco of oiH... and nu. , from DriSTl.. will boHt explain my position witU re,'.' <■ tho fac! . e. to b... expootod ; " DkPAETAIENT OV MAiUNH AND PiariKKIKS, " Ottawa, 20 ih J une, 1884. « c^rr, T hKxa to acknowlcdgo receipt of V'^ur letter of the 18lh instant, making ^. '"^';;iv"'in regard to tJ?e'Hud.ok. ^i E-H'^i<>^r:^t„^ll'l^At2 ^ - Vi ^.r>u,l n.r, fo inform vou that^ he vohsol will fiftil nom HalitaxaDout !S ". . '.oil thTv •. l«i° g ch»rt«ieJ l» lh« D»rattmcnt, «nd no 8}.eoi« accom- 31 Y or Tin )ihK(^T«)a onliflo pur Cauui'tt for lOHCH aI .l)h mulii objoot Htuhlish fiix I.) bi; lift iu liDiolofjical ilion ot tho IT tiJ'litional j't'tiuittod, .dsoii'H Bay. yould ufford ho K*:ology t bo vi-iited. ha J alioady ,vu8 selected ilso acted aa nysolf with [)poi'tuniliort . R. Gordon, nd; and tho :u'iiie. Not- aged, while ) got ashojo •i«ol and tho r., and mor , Opl" to OTIC ,cil ^'of to bo \e, 1884. tant, making iploymont of i al if ax about lation can be pooial accom- ioient for tho provided for at assistance, o infot'ia yos ich the veseel you thaUt i8 the intention that ihc vc '«! „K^^ r ii \ «^ ." «^. ^ inf'^'"» to Btato i.oMtivoly that Hhe will r .., , »i., ?? V .l - ' (""' '"'* '* '» '"possible «>. B«li'H^ainton^n':whUeo,IVoL"'lh';el^^^^^^^ will be mfde for " I am, Sir, " Voiir most obedi mt tervant, " NV, SMITR. " Pemiy Mbiiitero/ M r.ne.itc" A. R. C. Sjelwtn, KtiQ., LL.D , F.U.S. Director Qooloi;), ul dud Natural History Smvev voyage ' "«■*"'>■ f'.r mo lioro to giv,. „ riof ,kotcb of the roufi tHefr:;'rs,,t;..'?:;-^-^ woo.|«„ vc,,.el of ,84 ton, bu,d™, wtid, hod l,„m bailt and ,i ,c7l fo; ?he Ll SeV ?f,^^i; rA;i^r.rd^ss;-ed rfrhth?^f^:t:r t^^^^^^ 22 t HaVifaS ind B^woro fnabled to continue our homeward joarnoy without an hour b ''^'''Wre nroceedingtoeive details of my special work, I may say that at eyeiy Eskimo are intelligent and good observers, eBpecially o 8"«^ ,'^'^"«f .^' oxoectod to Minerals and rocks whi?h might beoW-ted to ""C-j; f^ljf .^f '^^ J^ J^ tuX y and on allowing the natives to inspect thorn, they would VO|^^«"t„^°*^,J' T '~^^ ' ^n thought mila? to certain kind« which they had noticed m their o^»^ ^J^f ?^ ^^^^ [nteriting feature in the geolog'^^l P^«"«?«"'^ '^^ ^^.T™^^^^^^^^ ft htndv of thorn will assist U3 n the elucidation of the suiporticiai gooio^y ui u»" moio southern porlious of the Dominion, which forms so important a braach of the ""'loVcgt^STSfogyTffo^^s were constantly made to collect .peci,nenB in every class of anSlB and to obtain new information on all points with referonoo to them Unw^rds of hTty specimens of mammals and birds were obtained, of wh ch ^ I^^tion wL^^mm I)r &Sew8 of York Factory. Some of theno are rare and will prove to W Ty isTuwtSSi^gUd to L museum. Many -otes were made on t^^^ A small collection of butterflies and moths from the shores of ?'^;^««"^'l^*'^^^^^ heei? sent to Mr. H. H. Lyman, a woU known entomologist in 3^«°^Xn'. WnSf^ «!rPPdtoidentifJthom. One of the missionai-ies on the Labrador coast has kindly So It Lawrence for the express rP'^^^^l «t"^^Ll'lXral°'t;ait aU^A^^ 23 ition of the :ch a steamer out an hoar'8 hat at every d permit in ndeavored to orala, which, vorios. The ! ftffect their expected U) itice of them. 'all the ores, i?ore to visit, which thoy istricta. An ;ionH, is that jology of the iraauh of the aens iu every anoo to them. lich a portion .11 prove tobu > made on the the fishes and tyofmoliaaks ostly on ship- f entomology. 1*9 Strait have treal, who has Bt has kindly 9 next yeai'. ) waB made at un and a cata- , now facta of laala and the itod with these ako this opj)or- mo in making niliar, the ac- montion that 'innapedia, has iiavellod in the lals. It would Strait all the i of Newfound- 1 walruses are ii-der to obtain and the course )e studied. The attend to such OUSj iu tuT3 jhir- have included )n's Bay or the has spent two H,. 4fh n? "r^ ">«".on«l. we anotored [„,■ Jhour at JJI«o,; sSn on the mJSot beight of about 6,000' foot atv™' he sL.^TyoSfthlf iltai: -ii ' V 1'''^^" ams^^L'STglirstifmlf::' 1^ "'°°g ^he Labrador follo;^ : FrorCl^ Isle f^ fccunh « V^f^ » 'it o throe principal courses, as Porcupine Bay to Cnnw-thwesmK ^q^'Ji"' T'^^ S'l"'^' ^^^ miles ; f^m 24 below the IovqI of tbo sea, it is statoi in i\xQ Newfoundland Pilot, pabKshed by the Admiralty, that the ehoros from Davis' Inlot to Nachvak are comparatively free from reefs aod sunken rocks, but that from Nachvak to Cape Cbu«ileigh they are fringed with islets and rocks, to an average distance of five miles out. The coast of Resolution Island seems to be similarly studded with these impediments to naviga- tion, and those circumstances appear to be connected with certain geological condi- tiions, which will bo referred to further on. In approaching Ford's Harbor, which is on the eastern point of Paurn Island, the inlands near which we passed consisted of bare rock, and although usually high and steep, they had rounded or glaciated outlines. Numerous perched bouidors lay about, either singly or in groups or rows, on the naked surface of the rock, wherever thoy could find a resting place. A short distance off the entrance of the harbor, we passed an island which, on the t0)i and one side was literally piled with rounded boulders* On this island I noticed a dyke of trap about 100 feet thick, cutting the gneiss in a wost-north-woHterly direction. On going ashore at I'^ordV Harbor, I lound the gneiss to consist of common reddish and greyish varieties, some parts of it massive and others more finely and distinctly laminated. The average strike wa& south-east (true). The glacial stria? were quite distinct in many parts, but vrere best preserved near the shore. They run in two principal directions, S, 45*^ Tv ,nd S. 80" E. (mag.) Perched boulders were observed on all the surrounding hills. In going from Ford's Harbor to Nain we followed the channel on the ncvlb side of Paul's Island. The rock appeared to bo dark, massive and cry.stalline. Our stay at Nain was so short that I had only time to examine the high ridge or mountain to the norlli and north-west of the Mission Station, The first shoulder of this ridge, we were informed, has a height of 8*75 feet above the sea, but the summit, a short distance fUrther inland, mu.st be at least 200 feet hitjhor. The rock hero consists of a rather light grc) gneiss, which strikes S. 45° E. (mag.) The glacial stricc, which.were seen with greater ^r less distinctness, all the way to the summit, run S. 65° E. (mag.) or about pai-allel to the valley which extends inland from the head of the fjord ap which we had sailed to Nain, and with the same general bearing. Well rounded boulders were scattered over the flanks and summit of this high ridge; and they were quite prominent on the high bare hillb on both sides of the inlet, all the way from Ford's Harbor. Tho appearance of the top of this mountain, with the boulderr, resting on the bare, sloping rock, is shown in one of the photographs taken at this spot. Mount lins of equal and greater height were soen in all directions from this summit, except towaids the east- ward, where they die down to the sea level in the distance. On t'ae next hill to th» north-west, the weathered surface of the rock showed a rusty belt of a brownish color, and of considerable extent, which was supposed to be duo to iron py.'ites. I was informed by the Moravian missionaries at Nain that tho lubradorite of this part of the coast is to be found at different places on Paul's Island, and at a fresh-water lake culled Nunaingok, which lies at no great distance inland from che bead of a bay to the north-westward of Nain. They said it was also reported to oocuif on a bay a short distance to the southward. I had not ;ui opportunity of viblting any of these localitioa, but from specimens which I have seen, I have little doubt the mineral occurs as veinstones, in which there are also crystals of pyroxene, iron pyrites and magnetic iron. In this connection it may be mentioned that I have seen a large specimen of coarsely cyrstalliue kibradorite rock from Hamilton Inlet, in which some of the facea showed a blue iridescence. The rose-red variety of anorthosite, called latrobite by Gmelin, is stated to come from an island called Amilok, on the old charts of the Labrador coast, about forty-five miles northward from Nachvak. When at Nain I obtained spcimens of amazou-stone, which the Eskimo told me came from Port Manvors, ana of paulite, a variety of pyroxene or hypersthone, which has also been culled *' Juabrador hurubluudu " uud "LueialloiUal dial luge." It was said lohavooeea brought from Paul's Island. Mr. John I'ord informed me that yellow mica, in flake* about the si/e of one's hand, was found on this island, about two miles north-weatward of Ford's Harbor. In regard to the rocks and minerals of the Labrador coast, the fol- 1 25 ed by the itivoly free h they are 'he coast of I to naviga- ;ioal condi- Island, the Y high aud i lay about, irever thoy , we pasfled »d bquldors' luttifag the Harbor, I ) parts of it blrike was , but vyere 45'' F. . ,x)d iding hills, jvtb pidi. of the high The lirst feet abovo asit bo at rc>- gneiss, greater ov : parallel to au sailed to e scattered uminont on ubor. The arc, sloping ►f equal and dH the east- hill to th* a brownish py.'ites. I )f this part fresh-water jad of a bay on a bay a iiy of these he mineral pyrites and len a largo which some osite, called e old charts :. When at ) oatue from ilch has also to have been ica, in flakes- i-westward wst, the fol> ! s iraTef^S^ererbffra; ^IZ^S^ TT^r' -PP" P^"^* - • of the entrance of HaraZn Inlet fln^fhT.^/'^.u''^ ^'^'*"^' «" the n.rth side schists occur in that nSS^rhood A man ?rnm%''^°'^'^^!>^«'"'"«'^ *'»«* «'«teB or had been enga-ed witlf nfWa f'™,^ "°"^ ^^""^ ^^^^'^ stated to me that he on Dead,nanf 1 la'n^'thich 7s TtnJ.71 T '".["'"^"S ^°PP°r ^^'^ J««5 ores They occurred in a vS betwe n a Ik fil^ Jfli'v ""!:,'^' *^^ ^^"^'»^° ^«'«t- quart^ite. Mr. Kins, the second r^;?„ .^ Th.kt^^L^^W^ ^""l, « ««rt of sandstone or the adjacent coast of Jfewfoundland^^ operation for a numb.r of years on l^einjf us^fns T.flLZ'^lJ""^^^''^^'^ ^^'^' ""^ ^ ^"'^y '^^'^^''^ ^'«te, which where would p!-nnit!^'and f "w1£tJs'l!Irnf ..^^ "'^7; fT' ^ ^'^ '-^^"^^ '''«- The Eev. Dr. S. WeiV whTLf ion" rLr!V^*5r°'^ "".'''.''^ ^''"°'* '" ^^e appendix, plants of the vie ni v which tiu^/.^l''^ ^*''°' ^^^ made a collection of the Europe, who had Shed tt proS ? name to'each^L"^" ■' ^'" ''rf'\'^ ^"*«"'«^« '^ me to make a list of thesfl -m,! if ;;?i • • , specimen. Ho kind y allowed of the general list ' "'^ '' '' ^'"'^ S'^^'^ '" *^« appendix, in one of the columns grovfs'of'Jetmaf resci3£ell^^ '\' 'S''" ''''' before reaching Xain, yet of the inlets, and wLereinfo\^ed thST. ?n" ?' T"!'° ^'^^ ''"'^'^ «'^P°« ^^ ^^^^ -^«^d or from th^ coast frrconsTrabledi«faTi^^^ ^^ ^•"'"'V^^ "''^^ inlandfrora .Nain. Baid to be wooded, as far as he S?t on of thT f °^ '''■,';'^' ^'"^^'^ ^^^'^^'-^ "'^y ^e 26 goeiss, notwithstanding their extraordinary appoaranco, so different from the smooth, solid and more or less rounded outlines oi the hilis composed of those rooks in most otber parts of the Dominion. On the present occasion we stopped only at th© Hudson's Bay Company's post, at a narrow part of the fjord, about twenty miles in fW)m the open sea, and 1 had a few hours to oxamfno the rocks, collect placts and take photographs in the neighbourhood. But in returning, in the mouth of October, we stayed for several days at a biL';ht on the north side, a few miles from the entrance, where we built a station, and named the place Skynner's Cove. This enabled mo to extend my explorations of the neighbourhood, and I shall no^v htato the results of my observations on both occasions. On the south side of the inlet at the Hudson's Bay Company's post, i'-n escarpment rises to a height of 3,400 feet, as ascertained by Commander J.G. Bolton, E. N., but I had not time to visit it to determine the nature of the rock. A brook, which gathers its waters from higher ground further back, but which is not visible from the ]X>9t, precipitates itself from the top of this great precipice in an almost perpendicular fall. The rock on the north side at this place consists of reddish gneiss, somewhat contorted and occasionally interstratified with dark micaceous layers. Two or three miles oast of the post a good sized brook faib, in several almost perpendicular leaps, a height of 300 or 400 feet over these rocks. The strike of the gneiss in the neighborhood of the falls is S. 35' W. (true.) At a point on the north side, estim-ated to be about nine miles from the open sea and eleven from the post, opposite to a bay on the south sido, a mountain rises steeply to a height of 1,500 or 2,000 feet. It is composed of gneiss standing vertically and strikini? N. 25° W. (true), cut diagonally by a gi-eat many dykes of dark trap all underlying westward at an average angle of about SO'' from the perpendicular. Some of them run together and others appear to die out in both directions on the cliff section. Some dykes of close-grained, almost black diorite, also cut the gneiss in the ricinity of Skynner's Cove. From the point above named lo Skynner's Cove the rock along the north side appears to bo all gneiss with a variable strike in different pnrts. Around this cove there is a variety of micaceous, andhornblendio schists passing into thinly bedded gneiss. The average strike is about S.VV. (true). I was informed by our interpreter, whose home is on the south side of the inlet, that the Eskimo obtained a kind of soapstono for making their pots in the vicinity oi Skynner's Covo before they were able to procure others of metal. Along the northern part of the entrance to the inlet or about North- Head of the chart, the rock is a coai-se, dull red syentic gneiss. At one place it encloses a mass, like a bed, of nearly white quartzite marbled with small elongated gray patches, but it appears to be cut otf as it runs tip the slope, although another exposure of white rock was seen some distance off in a north-easterly direction. Here the glacial striic were seen on projecting points near the water, running with the axio of the inlet or about east. At Mount Bazorback, which forms the outer point on the north side of the Naohvak Inlet the stratitlcation is well seen, the dip being to the southward. The angle of dip on the outer or eastern part of the mountain is almost 60°, but this diminishes to 45° and finally to leas thaa 10", in going to the south- westwaid. Several large but somewhat irregular dykes of black-looking rock cut the strata of the mountain side at right angles to the dip in its varying inclinations. On the opposite or south side of the entrance of the Naohvak Inlet, the dip of the bedding is S. S. W. (true), and the inclination, generally from 35" to 40'', but at one part it is 60°. Dykes were seen all along, cutting the face of the mountain range and running in a southeasterly direction. On the west shore of the first cove, from the entrance, on tho south side of Nachvak Inlet, the rocks consist of a coarse-grained slaty tufa or breccia, thickly studded with grains of quartz-opal. To the north, this passes into a sort of coarso (%jfoyoi-,|.-> ?rey syenite which could be traced for two miles westward along tho sho'i-e; whilT) to the south of it is a coai-so grey mica schist, running N. 25° W. (mag.) rertical. In thic rock, and near the slaty breccia, a vein of quartz was found, from. a foot to two feet in thickness, and holding patches of brown-weathering caicspar. , i 27 I tho smooth, •ooks in most only at the- onty milc8 in >.t plants and h of October, tho onlranco, iriableii me to tho results of n oscarpmont )n, E. N., but vbich gathora rora tho post, endicular fall, hat contorted reo miles oast !ap8, a height neighborhood I the opon sea 1 rises steeply vertically and of dark trap perpendicular. ns on the cliff 1 gneiss in tho Dove tho rock ifferent parts. ;8 passing into was informed ,t tho Eskimo kynnei''s Covo 'n part of the oarse, dull red rhito quartzite ' as it runs up" tanco off in a g points neax-^ nt Bazorback, J stratitication liter or eastern [y to leas thaa gular dykes of ) the dip in its ot, the dip of I" to 40", but the mountain south side of oocia, thickly , sort of coarso vard alontr tho 25" W. (iuag.) as found, from. sring caicspar. PnlTi ^^. rnomt&xti, overlooking tho south aide of the inlet, opposite Sk ynner'» SyiV tK * f'"^^ "Ppearance, with some great bands of a light oolErand more solid S h!nH ** K*TP '"''':'"^' "'^'■'y i'«^i>''0'^tHlly for some distance. I was unable to visS ottonocfthora, and which proved to be a tinejrrained liaht grev silicJous schist j^ch makes excellent honen. These ax.d the Sther roo£ on^S'sout IsTe of h^ nn^ 1 this neighborhood which have junt been described, as well as a part of those on tho north side, may belong to tho Huronian series. Slaty rocks have^been men- F^on^f.,^ occurrmg at Ramah, in the iolet, about twenty miles south of Nach"ak. iTl^LTTT ''^'"^ ^ J^«vo seen, these are probably of the same age. and ther may Ix) connected as one area with tho supposed fluronian strata of Naohvak. ' ComnaSv^irN^^i'lTl^''' ' ^l i^'"' *'.'"''«^ ^•"''^' '^« «^^°t of the Hudson's Bay company at Nachvak, and our Eskimo interpreter, that at a short distance bovonfl iinX'nn '.K*"' mountains, soon to the west o'f' the company's post, theruDtrfS rapidly on the inland side, and boon becomes comparatively level. This descriDtion E'fr?*''^''"''^"^^ ^^^•^^ "^^^'''^''-^^ ^^« Lab/adorin the Ungava district. Kdi i^nhit rn^"^ L*?" ^""?"-y drained by the George, the WhSle and the KokTiSj R«t 't^ ^^^ • * ^'^^?' ?' '^''} ^"^ «'^<'"*^ southward a long distance from Ungava Bay. The surface 18 reports to be covered with a wet, peaty moss, growing upou barren eand with the sofid rock everywhere at a short Jepth*^ beneath. TheTivfrs SnS ^^^"JJ^ K P^ ""'t ^Fuoe and tammao trees, but^oiy little tiX Is to bo Zthw««^ ^iV'^rt'^-' u^'\ '"''".'^^ ^^ *''»« Ungava Kiver is 155 miles ^Tr^ZItu ^"P* Pliudle./^h. In going by sea, from one to the other, Com- mandor Bolton says, in the .\tufoundland Pilot: "The high land of the LabraJo.- shore could be seen towering abovo tho scarcely disceruable shore of Ungava Buy for the first sixty or seventy mile.." T.ho Ungava River i^ navigable for s.a-goin- Sni'^nnr'?' *'''''" ^'■T:^P'''''*^^« ^^« ^"'^^""'^ ^''y Company's po8t."Fo,t Chimo. and boats may ascend it for ,^oventy or eighty mile-. Tlie river is from one- quarter of a mile to a mile and a-quarter in width. Its upward course is S. by E. Simn ^L\fi^V }-^''''l^\'' '"*'■''? undulating country. Spring tide, ui I'ort Chimo rise 3^ feet, and tho rapid currents produce dangerous whirlnooJb. veiTthn T?!!ri ,'^'p"^r "^' U"f^« fi*y i" great numbers, and for ^.o me years the Hudson s Bay Company have annually sent a cargo of them, in a «[h«^1i ' \l * p'T'^ Bteamship, to the London market, in addition to a con- mderablo quantity of the salted tlsb. Besides salmon, the trade of this port consistB ol turs, seal and white porpoise oil, anddt-or skins, and is carried on with the Eskimo ?rom?heToth.e';Twar"d.""' '"" ''*^ Houch-western interior, and Nascopio Indians n,iuff^T^''°^fu ^"^'"^*^!'^"??^'''^' according to all accounts, about thirty miles to the south-west of the Hudson's Bay a)rnpany'a post at Nachvak. The inrlhifrVr'T'^/.'if''*'^''^^"'® ^"''^'1*^ '^^""•- ^•^'^^'»« westward of Nachvak, the ^Zllfi^ ''z>^^'' ^P^'^^J according to Capt. William Kennedy, reaches tho th«PL.^^^'*^"T'"''':^'l°^.^''*^^«°'■K"'«'^«'•• On the western side of this bay the Eskimo informed me it begins to bo found in the neighbourhood of Bay of Hope's «rltf^' 7 ^'^ 2fy« journey south-eastward of Cape Prince of Wale.^, on tho south side Hudson s Strait, and that in this neighbourhood it was found farther north in e^^SiZ i'" """A" r"^'' Y '^^'''"" ""' "P'-'^^ ^'^'i t*'^*''^''. balsam fir^ Sor of 'n fr *?•* .bal^imnoplar are reported, on good authority, to exi«t in the Atlan?,> ir.. ''"«? ^fT^'^'l 4 ^^ «0"»« distance further from the coasts of tho Atlantic and the Strait than the first mentioned. fWnr.?f«\''*' ^r*'"".',» coast of Hudson's Bay the northern limit of the spruce wa» fuJ hn?nn°fK 7 "^T "'^^1^0^ Ki«b">o«d ©ulf, but it was reportod to extend much wa« «In ?n ^ at a diH anco inland from this coast. On the west side of the Bay it was seen in couHi(lArul> Aa">>n><>io" oil ou,... 4U» ^ t r, ^, ,..,"■?' nnrtl „£5 ti? ^: ^°°'"«® MoTavish, who has made several coasting voyages to tho Uah^^iu""' f> °'^- '««»"««* lias kindly made observations and ofllec ted in forma- lion ftom the natives in regard to the distribution of timber, informs me that ifc --.-i*'.' r-T- 28 leaves the shore about twenty miles beyond Seal River. He was told by the Eskimo of those parts, who travel a good deal in the interior, that spruce timber begins to bo met with at two days (say fifty-five miles) west of the mouth of Big River, and that it is considerably further inland, opposite to Eskimo Point, which is about in latitude 61" 40'. Prom this neighbourhood it runs west north-westward and crosses the Coppermine River about twenty miles from its mouth, and thence reaches nearly to the mouth of the Mackenzie River. On leaving Nachvak, we sailed up the coast, passed round Cape Chudloigb, througli dray's Strait, which is between it and the Button Islands, and entered tJnguva Bay, According to the chart and the Newfoundland Pilot, the cape ridOR to a height of 1,50ft feet above the sea, and the highest point of the Button Islands has an equal elevation. Tho outlines of these islands and of the southern nhote of Gray';? Strait, nltbough bold and steep, are rounded, as if they had been glaci- ated. At the woat end of the south-eastern island of the Button group a great rock hfie boon excavated into the form of a half arch, which rises out of tlie water ami rest*, at its summit, against the cliff which forms the extremity of tho island. The rockB of tho islands and the south side of the strait appear to lie all gneiss. On tho Ungava Bay side of Capo Chudleigh wo entered au inlot about ten railos southward of tho oxtromity of the land, and discovered a harbour on its north side, which wo named Port Burwell, after Mr. H. W. Barwell, the gentleman who was left in charge of the station (No. 1) which we built here. Tho hills, for a few m'los around Port Binwell, are only moderately high and are not generally steep. Their outlines are rounded and their rocky surfaces have scattered upon tbom numerous boulders as well as finer rocky dibris. The rock everywhere consists of ordinary varities of gneisp, the commonest of which are massive reddish and dark hornblonJic and micaceous. The strike at the Port varies from N. 20° K. to N. 40° E. (mug.) The £,lacial stria> at the observatory station run S. 35" E. (mag.), but among the lulls in tho neighbourhood they were observed to follow tho trends of the valleys with a general south-eastward course by the compass. A short distance south of the station, a vein, varying from 8 to 13 inches in width, occurs in tho gneiss. Its direction corresponds nearly with the strike, whioh is here N. 20° K., running with the Btratitication lor a short distance, breaking across to other beds, following thorn for a short distance and then jogging off to others. It consists of light grey dolomite and white quartz, holding a little iron pyrites and some crystals of quartz, rendered ruby-colored by a layer of oxide of iron under the faces. From Port Bur veil I explored the inlet to the south-eastward, and found it to i>e a strait dividing into two branches at five miles from the Port, the northern of which was ascertained to run through to the Atlantic. The Eskimo whom wo met in this strait informed us (through our interpeter) that the southern branch also continued through to the ocean. They also told us that there was no other channel to tho south of this between Ungava Bay and the sea to the east. We named this newly found channel McLelan's Strait, in honor of the Minister of Marine and Fish- eries, and tho north-west point of the main land. Cape William Smith, in honor of the Deputy Minister. At six miles from Port Burwell the northern branch of Mc- Lelan's Strait has contracted to half a mile in width, and has become flanked by high and steep hills, rising from either side. The tides, which at springs have here a rise and fall of upwards of twenty feet, run with great velocity through this narrow ,parl. Tho locality is called Nunaingok by the Eskimo, which means the Hidden Place, and the same name is applied to one or two other localities on the Labrador coast. In proceeding from Port Burwell to Nunaingok, our course was S. 6° E. (njag.) or S. 55° B. (true), and the country on either side ot McLelan's Sirait ishowod less and less evidence of glaciation. Even close to the shore, in approaching the higher hills which begin at Nunaingok, the gneiss is deeply decayed, the softening process having extended particularly along tho joints which lun both vertically and horizontally, leaving only hard kernels with a more or less rounded outline, between them. Nunaingok is situated on an alluvial flat, extending between tho two branches of the Btrait. The hill which rises steeply on the south side of it is about 700 feet high j but the Eskimo r bogins to River, and is about in and cros30M ,choa nearly Chudloigb, ind entered w riijOR to a ton Islands rn nhoro of been glaoi- i great rock water an(i jland. Tho 3. It ten miles north side, ,n who was a few inUos )ep. Tiieir n numerous of, ordinary hornblondic ° E. (raag.) ng the hillH lleys with a the station, ts direction g with the r them for a ulomite and z, rendered I found it to northern of om we mot branch also her channel named this le and Fish- in honor of inch of Mc- flanlied by have here a thii narrow the Hidden be Labrador 5''E. (niag.) nred less and higher hills )C088 having lorizontally, ween them, nchea of the stfaigh; but 29 1 500^ SV. S r«t h-„K ^"'h 'v?'' ""'^ °" f'^^""' ^'-^^ '^*' '^«'"' ^^^ mountains are fi-om \:^.l^Jif \^}^^'^^'!'^^^T'' '■"SgoJ ^'^P" ^''•^' -^'des. Rounded boulders were ijlXw^'h *" ''^"" ^^^ f^^ ^°^ '?P ""^ '^^ '''" '««^ '-^f^"-*^ to; but although U £C „ ^ been somewhat glaciated, it had not boon planed down to hard surfaces butfiadan irregular outline and the rocks wore much disinlegi-atod. AraongtS hmefetoue with clear .luart/ grains, pinkish- red sand-^t.one, red ja.pcr and macnetU CiirJor''""''- ^''•''g'"?"t« f fe'rey. d'-'^b and yellowish lim'esL., with oEu i tCionrrn "TT".ru-n ^'^'.^'^r^^''^^'"' 'I'f^^KJacial stri..wei'owellHooi. ou the southern yu o the hill referred to, where, iu one cane, they wore observed to Kct ff ^'"""^.V'^'H^"' ^^"'^o^ «^'«" ^''" under sido'ofaiTovc;-hanging.oK +h^ J««5!f!n "'''^' T"''^ Nunaingok, as far as 1 had tbe opporluniiy to examine them, were all gneiss, the average strike of which was N. W. (true.) On one of the mountains on the north side o? the northern channel a wide be of brown iron .tamed rock runs diagonally thi-ough tho ridge, tho color bo nig probably due to the decomposition of iron pyrites, but I had not time to visit the placl ,.;iio Nu"a'nSok, on top of a bank of sandy earth, are rhe roiuins of an o!d Rskimo village. The roofs of most of the underground housU had fallen in, leavin- onl 'larT, lltlFlt «<'"^f «f ?««« f«d become partially filled up, showi'ng g eatltiquiy t Z ''\^}'^''^^f^ «f hem had been inhabited within a year. Som'e Eskimo camS i?ar«f iv .1?,; ^ f''"'^^ "'' ^'T"^'^ °"'' i"torprete>-, that this had once been a X ^nn?rVw;n J "^ .•°'"•*''A•^^'^*^° underground houses from the commence- Sid snend r;.TJ .^r' \" ,^«T«'?»>f ^•. ^iU January, after which they leave them and spend the rest of the winter in igloes or snow houses. Tho water in tho north ifS f5^^°?K '^*'''}^'' they informed us, is open all winter at thTs iointaSris ^H *^l'n^"-.,^' sealB. Y^'°'' «^«^d them a reliable supply of food.*^ ThesTani- Tht W^ h ' • r'r"r ^'""^ ^^°''' '^y"^" ^^ ^y «P«"""K thom from hiding places which iccltomtl Jo swinr'r''" r^'yl^^''^^^ point of rock past whicl^!he seals are S^r^rhf^l L V ' ^J'^'^'a "u""^^" •'Z ''^"^■'^ ""^ ^^^^^> walruses, rdndeer, foxes, the oM dweilb. Tr""'"'^- ''^T ^ ^'^'^ '"''^"''^ '^"^ ™'^«'i ^^'th'the earth'around rnl?, L, u^^* 1^^ remains of stone pots and implements near otliers of European t Jd bv iZJr'l ^ 'T"'"""? ^^■"'^ ^.*^« barbarouB^o a civilised coud t^in I^w^ ieoDlo^thrt til .. f T'^'''^"'''''''"?"''' ^'^« n--^^' ^'^^ « ^ong experience of those people, that the comforts and conveniences of civilization rendered tho Eskimo less vgorous and hoahhy, and, as a consequence, their numbers are diminiHhi,t yu.u . -Neptune was anchored in 15 fathoms at low tide in Port Burwcll The nodoms^'a:,! ■^S.^n V'" n^ -^ '°""^' l'^ H'^^"^' '' «'^«'^»^ ^'^h sheUfish, echi- water^lm. 1 ZTT \ ^u-'?^ ^"'" ^^^7' ^"'''' the 5th to the 8lh of August, tho water teemed wuh fine cod, which were taken iu great numbers by iigginfff Manv of them were tolerably large, and they were of excellent quality, contnldn; in Jhfs onSm'eTs lets w T«H^' ^^"h T^ "' ^'l^'^"'^'^' ^■'^'^''^ ^^^'^o^' ""^ '^ ^^ «S.t?o" o. less exneHem'; o? th^lT"? ' V'''^ southeast of it. Most of our crew had had more of the S%n ,1 1 A ^^^'^^''^'^°^" fisbones m previous years, and the superior quality ivtmn tnP ^n^^^ u'^ was a subject of general remark among them. On our leturn to Port Burwoll we found the fish still abundani, on the 27th and 28th of Seo Cm7;v"t'l'^.r''\*" ""^^TP^ the station informed us thit they could cat?h roHn tL l^fl^^r'^'" 'ct on tho oastern side of tho bay. The rocks on the wo.-f. side of Ashe's Inlet consistof dark grey gneiss, composed principally of quartz u.,.! lolspur in oven bods. Tho general strike, which is protty unitorcn, w east and v.o^: (t.ue), !*nd the dip, north at an angle of 40°. On the- higher levels the suriace of the rock is decayed into half isolated boulder-like masses, in tho vicinity of the siaLion, on the oast side, a common varictv of gray micaceouB goeijH IS ,«ot w ith, striking with re^'uiarity to the N.W. (true). A milo to tho north- ward, however, on this side of the inlot, it has become cast and west (true), cor- responding with ■ tho .-trik.^ on tho west side. The country was examined for several miles inland, or what 1 ju JgoJ to be about the centre of ihe (Big) island, and found to consist entirely of common varieties of gneiss, with a prevailing westerly strike. It contains many veins of "hungry" or barren milk quartz. Snmo of them hold JeJspar ana black mic;), gidng them a somewhat granitic character. In on© 01 them the felspar, wlijch was white, was observed to bo striated. Tho hills have a roamed sweeping outline, and their summits are a considerable distance apart. Jho wide oven spaces betwcon them hold shallow lakes, surrounded with gVoea moadow-hke flats and mossy slopes. Numerous rivulets and brooks ran down the iiIlH and discharge th: vraters of one lake into another. Tho general aspect of the andscapo reminds ono ..i 8omo parts of tho Highlands of Scotland. A shallow booking lake, with many low stony points, begins about three miles northward of our anchorage, and has a length of about throe miles. It discharges south and w^w. "d- '"to Ashe's Jnlit by a wido, rapid and shallow stream, which we called -naith i: h j-. I tested the ice of the stianded pans in some places, and always found it fresh This would be the case, notwithstanding that tho ice formed in sea water, for most of the salt would be thrown out in tho freezing, and what might rcniaia would draiii away near the surface on exposure to the mild air of summer. Owing to tho some- what poor heat-conducting power of ice, it is not possible that so great a ihicknoKH as 40 feet could form in one winter in Fox's Channel. It is probuhle that a good many years would be required. In regard to the quantity of ice which has been ob- served m Hudson's Strait, a study of the experience of the vessels which have navi- gated these waters, as well ns of that of the ships of the Moravian Brethren romixur to tho coast of Labrador, would seem to show that there is a succession of good and bad j-ears, with a minimum, and a maximum at perhaps seven or eight years apart or in cycles of some fourteen or fifteen years; also, that there may be a maximum' intensity m these cycles themselves, so thai perhaps every third one will bo more favourable in the minimum of ice and more severe in the maximum than the two intervening ones. The fact that most of the ice-pans of Hudson's Strait, when not covered with fresh snow, are colored with dust and earth, points to their formation rear shore, and also to their remaining there during one summer at least, when the ground ia bare of snow and the surface not frozen. The dust appeared to be in too great quantity to be of cosmic origin. These pans sometimes carrv irpavel on ihnir hack« n /in-nmstanco whicb was noted in my report for 1880, p 20 C' "When at Ashe's Inlet, a fact wa» observed which may explain the last mentioned phenomenon. Some tolerably thick *c« atill remained attached to the shore at high tide mark. During tho melting of the snow on the hills above it, torrents had carried a quantity of stones and earth. 32 m t beor. m^".ufeolod"^Thn f '^ T ^^ ''omp,vaiWc\y B.aull si.e and arc or huvo W foundorW ai? anVin^^v -'^'^^^ appearance of 8om« of thorn haa been altered tlo vSoa L1?U.,rwhifh t^^^ occasionally hoor. ropatod HOvoral timoH, • now «tand nrat d ffe^t ^^n^^^^^^^ occup.^Kl b.in^^ Indicated by wator-line; IfottiDghkm and LiK«2^Knc?. winn T' ""^ ^.^^^'^l^ok, in AfcLolun'. Strait. On surface oxposed to tKl 1 it ini^ ^"If"' ^"' ^?" ^^'^'^-''^^^ ^"'^ ^^^ ^^^''^ inSZt;ir;;tt'da^ «-'• ^^-^ -..atmgb^. ward can on\o&'Th'VZ,l^'J"^^' ^l^'^!'''' ^i"^'' ^^''y ^^ ^^^imo from the east- ])iccesof7u.e f li . .d .aSit^S a'^.'i.^^^^^ platos Osgood, light colour^djiica and graphite In re k- u, 1^ , \ n ^"'i P'eoe of tfon ,.yrilos, and one of amorphous gathered thoHosnec mens ^ntC ^^ the eastward, and that they had both of tlTmValnTZ tv \ '"'u^l ^W lurthor stated that there was plenty, ulsott NliirioofNonhS^ Having assembled those visitors, arfd in all, ^=xhSod to th m mJ^oSctirc^lr^^^^^ ^°"^ " ^^^ '^ thirtyeight time, enquired succsssiveivff nnSX^ imnerals, and passing them round, one at a for any info mation whiclUhL S Jht ^i v« I i-'T.r " ? f''''^^ '"^« ^^^^- ^° ^'"^"'-'^ &p nlln* „.k;,j fi !',y'"'8ntg've,J ottered them tobacco, ammunition kettloA. potsbeforrthovobtarnt i^?^^ *"*/^ ot soapstone, which they usod for making and lTdL'f'l''{hf ^'^''' ^°''*' "!' ^"^^'"^ k>"«d two reindeer in the vicinity ToSedu that itiitT,"'""'' 'i?"'i °J' "'"■ "» «J"it bW*: The IS 33 rhe connoo- spriDg.tide adjolDiD^ aro Or have luon ulteroJ 'oral timoN, wator-llneH 8 aro raosl n obsorvoJ originate may come » Bay and current is frozen at u 18 not 80 at >ti'ait. On d its bard lat its torn- diroot sun- at night or n the east- Lnilca and amorphous laco called they had '^as plenty, itors, and lirty-eight i, one at a In return in, kettlea, }rios as to red. But .he speci- mnirook , r making nd of Big they had ilities, but lof vvhich vicinity, )oar to be it on the It of the e winter, amedout from the to which barmigan '66 pSTta Eikimo '& named B.,r«Sln,ri'«TT "''«:'' •/''^''^*'*'^°»''^«'''^^'«<1»«"^ been Hoen at Port Burwell and m ilcLelau Strait, wa» entirely absent at Anhe's Inlet, and Nottinffhatn Island^ and was scarce at Digfro, leland ancfcape Prince of Wales ' ^"'^'"K'^**" P.- „We eft Ashe 8 Inlet on tlie evening of the 16th August, and arrived at Cab« Pr nee ol Walen, on the opposite side of the Strait, on the morning of ho I7th t o P^^TJTf "^"S^? geographical miles, and 'the courao abouVa S.V Sue ' fi^nf^ir ^^.r%S«"nJ I'"-; 10 tho 80uth.ea8twai-d of the cape, and appoarel to be about 15 m,lc8 broad. Wo selected a place on the inner^side ofTe oano for bu.ld.ng the obHorvatory station, and named it Stuparfs Bay, after ?Ir. R F Xpart of Toronto, wh„ wa. to have chai-ge of it. The h.'ghost hill on the west side of the fuLlZ'ITT"'^ to have a height, according to the barornoto r^f ^40 f^t an J the highest to tho fioiith of it to have a height of 180 feet. The rockn in tho vioinitv of the bay wore found to consist entirely of Lau.-entian gneiss: In the hilliTo th« west 6.de 01 St..pa,^t 8 Bay, the strike is from S. to S. 40^ E. (mag ) or n earl v oast and woHt (true) The gneiss in tho hills, both to the south anTS ■« cut b/nume " 10U8 voi.iH a..d buncho.- of milk-white quartz, which in various parts a.o so mns^c U0U8 on the bare su.face as to bo see,, ft-om considerable distances I .ono .Z?on the eastward slope of the hill to the west a group of pa.-nllol veins o tli. ffnerar yarving hom a foot to two feet in width, is traceable fo.- .omo distZ', Their courso .8 shghtly sinuous but I he ayo.-age run is N. 56^ W. (mag.). R,.! 111;,., o , ura in some of these, and occasionally a little black mica. The topof this , I rounded 2ir"'-''^« ^i<^J^r^^ ^'-^ovoH avo quite distinct. On the hthi 'oinTthoTr S bS" F "^{iT.U'^V- ^ '''^'° •^^"^ ^'^^ ""'""^'^ «" tho softh s do Eiy run I. (Lf.). observatory station, near tho sea shore, their coarse is S. 40» Viewed from the top of tho hill just referred to, the slopes and valleys to tho north- ea8twa..d are lull of ponds resting in basins of solid rock^ BoulLs So perched on the summits and slopes of all the hills around. Beaches of shingle, as lUhookine as those or. the present soa shore, except that tho stones are covoi'ed with lichens may be s.eii at all levels, up to the tops of the highest hii-ls in this vicinitv T ,e Joni sloping hills.do to the south of the observatory station is covoreSith fields of nf '♦»?«'' -f T* i ■•ouud boulders, all blackened by the lichens. At the nrthtin ba^o of the ndge, to tho north-west of tho station, is a large dry basin-like dem-ess on w ith a notch on the oute.- side, through which it has formerly com municXrwthhrsea From the notch, the shingle and mud are spread over the flooi of the bS in a fan! mafJrm ff'.f ^ -^^ tides had rushed violently in through this oponim.. The materials of the ra,.sod beaches above referred to consist principally of -ieiss with milk quarts fro.n the veins of the neighboui-hood, together witli a few frtfrnents of yellowish gicy .lolomite, with obscure fossils, a hard and nearly bLkfrn-ietv of sihoious clay.siu. 0, with an occasional boulder of dark, hard crystallino diodto ^ Prmce of i Fales Sound has a breadth of, apparUly. about fiftLnnles in a anH n'r ' f ''"V"*''-*^^" Stuj>an'. Station, on the inner side of Cape PriJce of WaL and of probably eight or ten miles in a southerly directiou. A long arm tho north shore of which I reached at two and a-half mifos due S. k froKntation ruis o??hn F ?"'" ^'^^^•f '"'■"^ide of thesound. This appeared to LThofavm^^^^^^^^^^ oftheLski.no, and I propose to name it, for convenience, Eskimo Inlot A sS rapid river was orostcd between tho station and the inlet. The Eskimo informed me that another river enters the head of this inlet, and that it passes Sgh two co^ sized lakes not far from the sea. Some large trout, which they had KUrto^Jhe ship, were stated to have been caught in tRs river. Salmon werrsadtf bo found m another river entering the soun^ at a point about south of sTu^art's Bay. ^ oturhhT Vi';^ •',? ,^'^rf ^?i'^^'"' Stapart^8 Station and Eskimo Inlet are pretty thoi- °]l«^^.y «.'*^''^t«'^- '-ftendges and hummocks, as a rule, present smooth ilai f!f^^l'Z <:°«^«»^anu abrupt craggy faces to the east, showing that the movement of the ancient ice was fi;om the west. The striee are well seen fn many places Tthe On thi'^h'rirn^^yf ' -'^H?^ ''""S S. 40° E., (mag.) or about due east, a^stCfoSlly . On the shore oF the inlet they run a little north of true east or parallel with the con S ■ w 34 fj;!;'™'uKiSh "•"'"'"""'" """^ m«yl«,.ld„..,f«„y and y.llo„i,h lime fbo EHkimo loport roindoor to be nloiiliful arnand Piln^n nf Wni^ . o j . certa n .oaBons, being „, .t abundunt, I Indoi^ltooS ia tho w Sr D^^^^^^^^ teryal botwocn our two visit, to the .out.d, tho natives killed roveml a d a „ nmC which tho IlBkimo woro itvinft during our visit to Pr nco of W»W' «,,,„ i T .?i b^l in th«ir po..«„ior, tt,« sliiM of a^ good many hrti- and «,ma™ I) ' '?^ iPhoc., ,iMi„a) (Linn.) and £™««L, *S« FabricS) ^Z^^Tn^^Si; infoiz'^hSnr;,x°vfe"k;it''iy,orhrorh^s^^^^ As to tho suppo.^od passage or channel between Biiv of HoWh A.!r«n,.« n,.^ mS"d?d^r.rVv7-;"^-r. ?P^"^- ^^^ ^'^^^ «ny personrku^irdge Z^nter moter did not think >t existed, but as he came from the ea8to.-n Labrador ho h^ nA dc;init,e idea on the subject. Boinir an eeolistical inHk-;HnAi „n^i I- v.- "t- °° opinion to prevail it wis impossiblJoi- .S^' o ge a f^ 4p Con Tfr^-i " ^o^f tlieso poopfo on this important matter. oppression oi tho views of We left Stupatf. Bay at Capo Prince of Wales, on the evening? of tho '>2nfl «f a.e^'>t(,'°'^rn";!r'"^"''.K''° '^T'^.r P'^'* '■'f Nottingham Island rthemornS of ii h ^'^.If '^^i"^' ^ho south side of Salisbury Island, the hills of the western Lrf ssi;S7oi"^tTirz:;L"'''{yraSks^^^^^^ 8B lltafu. hr^^^ ^^ VV ^^' ^^' " ^" ^""'^d ^Jffl''«'t to fitart our anchor thnrgh &.^ ^ blu,Bh.grey .lay, conlafning grains of coar;., Hand dinHcrninatSd 1 explored Uk. cuntrv to a distance of about threo miles in vurious diroctionn ftom oar ar^ohoruKo, and Und the rock, to consist of common v!uiX« of Si?^ of the inlet. The uvo.ago direction of the ^trilco h HO.nh.w,.«t (in,,, bui thorean. numerous local vanafons which, however, soldom carry itn cournc outside of th« Sid w trtT"':."'?Vi'*°'^- Tho joints in the gneis^s run Zttt o t neal £«H : „• . , ^'"'''"' ''*''"'^' ^"'^ ^^'« '« ^'-^'^ lii« direction of a number cf lone- onto t^tho Btiikc. The bottoms of those doprostiions are filled with bouldor clay whifb J^ atnoL ;"f' ^"' " '""'^":;''' »"-'-«"S«'^^o»t pa^-aHoI with the wails, TpStTy due w'^T^r •'f °^P»"r" '"^'^ contraction and of heaving, on aocoun oi the itense frost of thiH reg..,n In narrow cuts or gorfos the heavfng ol the clay wareroatoHt along the mdcs, which had the effect ol sorting, out and thro-.v-ing ti o.,& to Jhodiioction of loo jo.ntr* in those r-.-ks may also ho that ..f dvkes am JnZ hn.f ' "T,f. *'i '^''^y."''^ Hubsequent glacial Iction. would ow bo .otoaS in the bottoms of th. depressions above ioforred to. At a projecting poin on the S?n7vr«ofh'"?''''^Tr'""^''°""''"^'P'*'-'^''«' ^» i'« walls, Uou^d So stri^ ghng veins of hard grey dolomite, weathering brown and holdii - scale- of mica The rocks of the lower levels are well gfaciated, and from T.pvv I. ' f ^Jntv trials ,n various situations around Port DoWcherville the avX h)uL of /^^ jtria. across the Houth end of Nottingham Island wasloortainod^^^> Ts 30- R (mag ), or only a fow degrees southward of true east. That the dU-oction of th« «^uj^n«rf, tho mode o the fluting of perpendicular walls and of channels out in the rocks, as well as by the direction of t\io curves of the semi-circuhu \\Z ao lu th« larger grooves themselves. A valley, with a south-eastward bt^utng, enters t hi head lwTnVthHril-r?°'r'^'^'"°^, '' ^^° ^^-^^^^^ r^^^'^^'" «^" the^'So d LcSod showing that while the low southern portion of the island was swont bv a irreat &nl^lT ,h" ''?*• ''"''^'' ^'^^ traversing it from the nor Kost^ NeX fialf of the boulders, stones and gravel of the drifl are grey limestone like hat of th? Mamtounik (Cambrian) group indicating the proximVof S rJeks to the w^t ward. The grey quart/.ite of this series is also well represented One n'oce ort1?;« ^our'wh^T^^ "n ^•^^'•f«'«"«tic.«Ph«"cal spots of^a ofter naVuroSnd Hghte^ colour, which usually weather out into hollows on exposure. There arc also fral group. Two pieces of fano-grained white quart/ite were noticed which mavhaia como either from ro.ks belonging to this group or to the Huront'n so -ies. Y frag- ment of red sandstone conglomerate was also*^ observed, of the same Sndts tSt which underlies uneonformablv thn Hfnn,-fr>nn;u .-.„i,„ „„',, .-. , " , f '"'*. »» K^at --'•>vi-, ., ,^.^ i^u ."iueuB were louna in the boulderclay. but a few com mon species were abundant in a bank of stratified sand, havin^.T liS of aSut 8 feet above high-water mark at the head of a bay. " ^ During the interval between our two visits to Nnttin»K'im Tai..n,i «v,^ «i,„« vatory party saw a few reindeer, but the uummSus trSs f„^rdrot^nL^^^^^^^^^^ animals show tha they exist here in considerable numbers Several of therr sh^ w!:^ '"'''" ^''''v' ?."^ '*.". ^/ '^'"^ ^^ t^« ^PP°r tines cur ously hooked and curv^I uiwards-a peculiarity which would be incompatible with fnre^lS^ W^X^l'J!^ ThZZ^' """'1 "'""^ "approaching the island, and while th^ 'station was 'buildrn^ b?t sLm J InH -f ? ""^ September. These animals acoomptny the ice durinir the ?K- {.fL^* Its unusual prevafence in this quarter the present season was showf bv tbo blighted condition of even the Arctic vegetation of the island Sc hwrand foxes were seen, and both appeared to bo abundant 39 Arct^tToo? (XS ^^:^lS'^}'f breed on xNoltingham Inland, arc the sitnatious, which the Esk mr?a various nla.rfn'rr ^r"*- ^J*'* ^ '^^^^ ^^^"^ of the for thoir campH, there appS?oZ Stle^doahVrhS'M'*'" ^ ^,^^.^"'1 ^^""t ' «h«««« eo«-Ievol was 20 to 30 f?et higher than t i« at n^l ?^ ^^'^ J,^'"'* ^^''^ ^^«" ^I»» open Strait, ja«t south of the fnlet, he more recon? worL n?V^' ™'^^ ^""''^ ^^« p.reservod, although thoy are probaWy upwail of 100 vear« old %W' "'"•* ^'" nngs of tout-stones and some ehaneless Wns iLt. 7 I ' ^^T^^ numerous walls a few feet high, and cacheToVa bee hTve 'form «.?." ^i"''". 1"^"'' rectan^^ular 7 feet in diameter. Two of the liter a,« nZll ' T? ''^''^^ ^ ^^*^' ^" ^«'ght and Htoring mcpt or as hidLg placeV o r " ^tLf^^^^^^ ^'^I'^r for photograph of ono of thf if was obtained ' '' ^° '^''" S'*"'^- ^ g°«''- the Ton:i^V^ol\TMlSn.Z^^^ '? place the next station on the station was built on C"'It whom the harbour was calU Poi?Lanerri«r« nn"ir„ ' ^''P^''"^'-* «f Ottawa, after the head of the harbour fr^ HudsSrStS ''^^"'"^ ««?*••«*«« way^.m high t^ide mark to ^^^^2^^^-?-^^:^^^,^^ th^ coniS:^zS::'^:!Z^T:r K^^^fri^^^ir''''^ ^^^^^oi gneiss to the eastward of the harbot- t if N.T^ W ma^' S b'edSi^- ^^" ^^ ^^'^^' ^^' lines over a considerable area. At foai milos 3 of th« h„ l^ ™°'?^' "^ ''^^'^'g^^t north side of the island, the gneiss strikS N%no W Si harbour, and towai-ds the with a chain of lakes a long if °Totton conie; to I'^^k^' ■ .^ ""/' """"'^^^ ^«ll^y> two miles east of Port Laperrre Tt rT« ^i! °/''''^'' .'''^^ °^ *^o island, about explored for live or six mZ wliEt clr 'to'tKuH it^ °tTo' ^'''''\> 'H ^^ the gneiss was parallel with the valley all al?ng * ^^"^ ^^"^"''^ «*'"'^« ^f Led With g.een epidote, Wh "^^r^:^^-^^^^^ 37 a lalancl, aro th& fgnus americanus, ones, nearly full le Arctip loon. / nt Eskimo camp rn Eskimo, on a. have seen of the 1 Strait , choose 1 here when the ocks facing the people are well esides nunrierous ral rectanijnlar !t in height and lapted either for jarae. A good. next station on »nd unsuitable, mr return voy- er, I shall now y. Heretofore 5 arts to several i wont, however The bare bills ight, transverse appearance of f the island lies be strike of the ind has become early straight a mile from its uth-west, witli -ion was built ' Ottawa, after land separate* n this and the aised beaches, Hlopes, all the -woen 300 and and of ffuciss ^ (mag!), but Dg in straight I towaixls th© larked valley, island, about rue), and was leral strike of a valley, run- luroa, only 3 ivnn omsuiai- mrp, angular 38, and often ies veins and the general direction T&^Meyl ''""' "''"""^^ ^- '''" ^- C^'V^O. or wit^ Lapo^renf" ro;.'utrt'^L''S '"^ ^'^^ "^PP*^"'' ^" ^«- visitod Port Places close to hi-h tide maJ ^Z^fJT'''"'^^' '^"''*' *"""^ ''^ ^^o or throe around this harbour, wMchTom thorite?- '^ ?''"'P'u^ P''*''*'^ ^"'"^ «'-^« <>'^Horved tmture of the hugci' bones '1^ about in7h ''^"''' '■*?" P'L""«"^ ^°"<'''' ^''^ ^i<"='^yod we.e ombodded i^ a,e mis a^fd over^x^^^^^^^^ '" '''^''^' ^''" "''•''"^ «''-'''"o. 100 t^ 300yeiuv. old, 8t Tmore uSt^^^^^ sni,^>o.cd to be fiom valley whio5>comoH down to ZhoaSotK^^^^^^^ were discovorc.i in tic lying in the vog«t.iblo matter at the Mirf-u « tn ,.K ' k^ ^."""'"^ "^ '^ ''^^^ •>^ -atones angles to the brook, ,.t a contruo d d" r^ o?'thn bn't '^ each other and r.nu.ing at rigS fimtable for the tlnkimo mothXit iwatt^iu^^^^ ""^ ^^^ ^^""^' •^'"'^f^ would be than it is at nre.fl/ii Tf Vui 'loutUbhing d the sea wore 75 or 80 feet iii r|,«v these works woffib',>wL^'fTSo.^L^o?^ "^ ^.'P.i"^ •'" ^ *-^ ^ -'^ ". must be even more fuu ient ' ^ °'*^' """^ '^ *^° '"«*« '^^ ^^een les. th.^ Bhe pof^r SaXi'tl'lbrro' kld'^rthe'^^r'''"/ L'^*^ ^^^^-'^-O -^ miles irom the ship. Tbo cubs TJ 1„ '" ?V"''"'"^'' o^^^o ish.nd, abou: iwo probably between Hc?m/ ur^d ' gbt'l^nthT^rd ''o ""?: f"'J ^^^^^^''-na wore them cmitiously, one of them wa„ oi;i,.t„H V ^ '^''^'^ ''"'""« "PP'-ouobod the stomachs o all thl.JZiiZrA^T ""*''""'^' ''" mother. I examined chow.d grass. About /it;, l^artlnhswl'^fcuod i'n'Z"/"''^!"^' ''"''' P^'^''^ andtwoanda-haltuiHione/mda-balf rLTtfveW n h i"""'''''' "^' '*^^'"''l ^oar informed by some Eskimo and Hudson's CrZ 1 ^ '"''" f"T''^^»- ' had been Hometimes oal grass, and I i.ad o""' the oa«t side of Man« back fro.) ;.b« .iZ klr S wSo rl°. '"""'"^^ "^,^"^ '^« •'""'^^ about a S etay there. Thoy WU'e a ways in ^h« " . "'"1 "''"^'"^ ^'^^'^^^ '^'"'"i during our from threo to neven or eighl ' ""'''''' ''"^ ^^'"^ ^'^^^^''^''^ «"«" in gSps of the shofes of HudHo.,'s StS " It rm^Ta 'Xi^r?";'' ' ^—'^'^ble conuT.t t rooks, u. low hu,i.ontalledge,s a™"Th«™S hutstratified ferent levels. At one place, fou oJCmilerTnlani 51?: i' ''''","«'' ^'^" ^^*''''^. '^t da', of about 300 foot aboVo the sea, and Swa« the ht wf "^•'""'^^^ bmall streams appear to run out u K,n Ihre.Xn shoil^ ?n.f '''"' "^i'""""'^ "Pon it. the rock in a few places. The moLtonv of fhn .,!/ ' . "T"!^ '■•'"»"« "re cut in at one Ior=a!itv by 'the rocks projectit"^^ «^ *> i"'^^"^< •'« broken old castle, with three towers on the if ft and n ,1.. f'^?^ 'V ^^"™ ™^embling an ontherigbt. A short distant" to theVutJ o i Tl """^''^'^^''^ '^^ «™bras^uie pillar on tl.A left Tb-^n r>nhr^ - A ''"^^ *■''*""" '« a Olitf. wi*b a d-'^Jrr" on ouestions ts " to t hrgFa^fa f phen^enrS Zso T^'' '' > ^^-'' * ^«-^^ whoto of the eastern sloplof the island nres^ntH a «nr . "^'""''; ^'»' «»" "J ^iles, th! mostly to^o low to be ^distinctly couXtrth\^^~hrtt;";rei'^:;S I 38 betWfon the boa love! :,r;d ihe Ivghoet purtn of tho island visible. These appeared to bo partly ancient bem.he.. u„d partly the outercroppin,r odgo.s of noaily hmSoota? £ dthi llf''" "• M'""' VrV\f °^'''"^' <^' thVoastorn^Hhoro of S/i and and found tho 8hore very ilai with shallow water for a oonsidorablo distance out The os: 1 ^J': ,''" " '"'"f '''''' «''«y limestone, in rather f hin horizontal bedJ: The wfu wore ub-rnre and HOar... at the piaro referred to. Thone collected Mi WhiteavcetlunkK are S.lurian. Tho rockn themHclvos roserablo the LoX SUudan uneB oneB of t be Ked and Nelson Kiver^. I land.d again near the «o« h eii of the i« and, and found the water voiy .h.lk.w in approachin^aho shore. No rock was detec ed m sUu at: ihin place ; but agre.t extent ofgravelandcoar.or hinglelri3 fn,;rioT-T" '''''''''' ^^'""'^ ,? ^'^" '■'^••'her north was thrown into a S;.^^^^^ long low ridgo. ar„ (.n-uces, all curving with the contour of tho land. Behind most •' H and. ••\'Si t"!,; Z\T^ P'"'-^ "' '''^'\ ''''^ r'"'-- ^ '^"^l"-''- «f ^^^^^^^nl n n!.Tk -^i •"''■"'"' '^T' "■^" »'«"^- ^^^ «horo of Mannfiold Island, but none of these people wei-e observed. • iom..u, uui nn.. f r"!! the southern extremity of Mar'stleld Island we steamed to Cape Houth- am , o.i, and thc.e -oasted north eastwa>d, in the hope of finding a suitable site for buddm^ an observatory station, (..t without suocesi ; and after^ making betwem' ^tK"? '^''yr^'' '" ^1'^^ 'J-'^^^^i"". we returned to the cape and pass^ed VouTd to the westward, Rhap.ng our course thence for the opposite side of Uud'son's Iky The getieral charter o th.s i.h.rd.and the part of its shore which we cx..mined arTquUe Ike the eastern s.de of. Mansfield Island. It has rather more vegetation uponft than St«l£"^'?' iMand,andmu.hofthe surface has a brown colour in eorsequence Shadow water, having u hght green colour, exten«o-quarters of a mile to the north-oastwerd of these were five old Es^kimo houses, built of stones and sods, with some sticks and b<.nef. lying on their Our first landing ,,laoe on the western side of Hudson's Bay was Marble Island but we had a distinct view ofthe land between it and Chesterfield inlot. JudS fcreT^Tr'^^"'? 't,^T ''^''^'^^^ ^^'"''"^'^ the kindness of Mr. George Mc- lavish, of the Hudson s Bay Company, a portion of thi^ coast is occupied by rooks which may be referred to the fiuronian series, among them bein/^ dioritos W b cndeschists and glossy mica-schists charactorLed ly numemS' o'lEis of S ?onStK?v T'^^T'-" '" •^'"'*''^ ' '""^' ^^^^^'^^ named rock appears to contain the von>, of ^;,anuliir iron pynJes, .•miissay of a sj.ccimen from one of which. Sur^ei^lSw'^'q ^"^ Th> ^^ ^^^^P*^" V" '''''' S^'' P" "' «- Ro^m-i Geological Burvey 1878-4 9.) Those glossy mica-schists were found on Dtadman's Island near the west end of Marble Island. Prom all that T have been able lo learn on the ,.tib On>Kt*°!°inr'''''-^'i^*' ^^''."^ °^ ^^« Township of Ascot, in the Province of ^uebecs and holding similar j.yntes veins, which a.o of great ccononuc value, will be found in this part of the wesierii coast of Hudson's Bay. Tho harbour on Marble Island, which is resorted to by the American whalers and m which we also anchored, is situated on tho south side of the island, about two and a-half miles from the western extremity. The outer harbour is formed bv Deadman's island, about^quartor of a mile long, lying across the front of a small bay. The inner ------ — ;•'•; -•■ '-'-•iiuer-m y:i:u tii.a iiuougn a narrow iiau in the rock with only about one fathom of water at low tide. ** ' «tilln'*°'r'.,\?m "^/""""^f *'^f ^^^^^ ^""^ light grey quartzitos and glossy mici-schist, striking N. 16" W. (mag). The glacial stride on this ftland are well marked and run 39 ound itsi'itu e^^d'und W^VtSr'r' ^f ''''''' ''' ^-^''« ^^'-'^ ^ rowed al.o exploded the interior nn.l, olfe'ifih«^ appear as iuartz;te are usually very mSsive Thn,-. f f vegetable matter. Tl.o bods of -.dgeBund l^ollow. va^ryiu^'mrh n ;ize bei^™':- "''" "^'^^"^ ripple-markod, the lu ing on a washboardf ar.d at others wo or tlfree m.hT' ''" T ^.^'^ '•^^"'^'' ^^ ^^^ /the island, near the west point theZarfSl • r , ^^"'''^- ^'^ ^^^^ •'^'i^th side .he beds being more '' ^^'^"^ ^'•^^'b wf a 1 the other stations and building the one at Cohlal^K'^l^"?' *"^ ^^^^^ ' ^i«'«ng HUi prevmus part of this report/VecoSued Ir hot' "^^ *'"' '^^^^^ described Newfoundland which we reach„dT,n thf l?h of o±T''^'''^ ,"^7^^" *« «^- •^^bn's, fo. Hahf,,, Where wo arrived oi, the Utl'l^laToTZ^ ^^^^^^^^ Width, goiie^ sz&x:t:t^i^2:^^ r ^'^ ^^--^ '» -p-t - of Hudson's Bay joins this great cCn3 „f ..• ^w ''^''^^^^''^it.and that the outlet wh?r" ^'>'' ^^'^ <^«"MmrfZ B^rJno H Sr^''^ ^^^^ ^"^^ deeper t£ which are remarkable features If the Z in A .""'formity of the bottom of fathoms ower than it is at the pi-esent time Jaml":^''^''."'^^^ w«''« «"'>' '^^out 10 diy land, while the Strait woLldreSi^nT ^'L"^ HV^««"«BHy« would become jsheri breadth. The bottom of he iTav won ' ^"^ *?' "^^^ '^ slightly dimfn in proDortion ty» Jfa ,,„<„,.. ^,'."° '^^> would have become » pi«,r,%^r:^. , ' , whjch-now flow into Tttourd%'^^^^^^^^^^ east and falling 5nt<, the Strait nearTpemHton^hS '"T'^^^ *^^«'-<^" ^he norS IBlH^2jKtt;.4C'kJ.'3>A:t'jg I'' 4Q Durin/irth» " great ico age " the ba^in of Hudson'u Bay may have toi.iod k aort of glacial reeoi-voir, roooTving Htroamnof ice from the east, north and north west and givinc forth the accumulated result m broad glaciera, mainly towards the south arid south-west. It has been shown, in a proceeding part of thiH report, that the direc tion of the glaciation, on both eidos of Hudson's Strait, was eastward. That ai extensive glacier passed down the Strait may be inferred from the sraootl.ed and striated character of the rocks of the lower levels, the outline of the glaciated surfacet Bointini? to an eastward movement, the composition of the drift, and also from th« fact that the long depression of Fox's Channel and the Strait runs from the north westward towards the south-east, and that this great channel or submerged valley deepens as it goes, toi minating in the Atlantic Ocean. Glaciers are said to exist on tht shores of Fox's Channel and thay may send down the flat-topped icebergn which flo^ eastward through the lower part of Efudson's Strait into the Atlantic. During the dri« period, the glacier of the bedof HudPon's Strait was probably joined by a contribution from ido ice which appears to have occupied the site of Hudson's Bay, and by another also from the southward, coming down the valley of the Kokwok liiver, andita continuation in the bottom of Ungava Bay. The united glacier still moved eastward round Cape Chudleigh into th^ Atlantic. . , ^ , . a. a Throughout the drift per'od, the top of the coast range of the Labrador stood above the ice and was not glaciated, especially the high noithorn part. Fiirther south on this coast, the range is lower and there may also have been more ice in this direction. Here the valleys and the hills, up i<> the height of 1,000 feet, at any rate h.'ive boim planed by glacial action, the course followed by the ice on the easterc slope having been down the valleys and fjords directly into the sea. In the southern part of the Labrador peninsula, the general course o( the ancient glaciation appears to have been southward, varying to the eastward or westward with the courses of the rivers and vaUoy8„and coming to the north shore of the Gtilf of St. Lawrance, m a general way, at right angles to the coast lino. On the island of Newfoundland, the glaciation appears to have been from the centre towards the .^oa on all sides. ROBBET BELL. lay have ioi . lod i )rth and north wosl ' towards the soutl port, that the direc lastward. That at I the sraootl.ed and e glaciated surfacet t, and also from th« ins from the north ■ 8ubnioi-ged valley I said to exist on tht icebergH which float tic. During the drifl ed by a oontributioD Jay, and by another kyok liiver, and its till moved eastward Lho Labrador, stood lorn part. Further oen more ice in this )00 feet, at any rate ice on the easteri: 3a. In the southern t, glaciation appears with the courses of [ of St. Lawrance, in f Newfoundland, the on all sides. OBBET BELL. CO 00 00 q5 t a o m la o 6e. jaaomjoBanragr, | VoT <=' f* QD S oj I-! cS S S? £! i' ^ -H -^r o ^ (J r1 "' I ■''IIP «2 jPOiM J9n!ij«Aajj OQOti •Avoag poTi "i^a JO lanomy a' ).«? 22^»^«--^»-c«««2 2;»oc««>..««" SJ^ bo >o« COM iSiiiiii nmm ssssssagR^gg Ssoooooo "«COtOtrJMm° •J«a a»9JV 2"-i I! : t I mKitfel >, I uo I 1 " '■' \ • ''It "I'KHhlKl.l) IM.KT > .. /ir. r, -■■> 71. 7<» l-'r>.V 1 ';>(,v.v.--'ivi. ^ 'W M V" ,*', '*vi^' ►*■'/. ...//..■»i/. r-if^ilJJk'v"'" ^ >. 4.. V- ; ^\\ '. 1,..".. Xhntf/ifht { , ■iT-'r..; '/ ) ..'•"* '- 5; ''4 -. '/)■ ll/;« .!) '% ♦-^ 5),,* 11' % ' iM^l)Sf)X'S HAY ^ ^ ...... ^, '•■■■■'"' r •^V"-^ ..^U. .J / i;^ --^ r\ ^ ? I ^ ^ ^ . .... . ski "S . S . Xi'])l line" HUDSON'S S^Y EXP|ro,^,Q^j 1884 F-B'SHtD i3f ri£ l)*' 'Vj. ^.-^ 0^ a-''" 7 ^V''"^' /' tEe5^^sj:^aaa^j;g^aaa£r3iJSH^iBfiiq H i iTt Til r.,-! >§ //.ii'.'A '.■ \/7' m ■^ \ •2?/' >' V% I'' ,,,*M& -J. /■ V "•/ four BuBWiLl.1gfi;,.i;*^ .AIV\ HAV .«• »;l Co VI ''<-:-'—>■<* fJr^ ''f'f ( /unto vijj'j'.iV-i.tUi" \1- <• ..>.•'"■ A>^' ,tf> I' — .-^e^;-' ^g^-— KV -'H.,^J-V-'."-.^-Vf.^^^,; fttiiiiltb V (:i?i:i:nlan'd •4, 1" 5i -l^:{, >«:^ •x o }; v A ' I ' I . A N 11 C c; i;: A >J , ^< ^^X^- \ .'J V '•4. J'l .>^' NEW ~^^-< ,::,;., .-.•^' BRUNSWICK ,'> 1":'^jy f/ . 4-^ iiyri ^Hi^im T T 't'^ '^'t'"'^^^^'^!' H^ss^sEs^ffljiirai^iis-^niaffij^ £f ^"^ i ittiiip'n ^ |iaiiaBi[:'. J - .