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Les dia{jrammes suivants illustrent la mithoda i 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 / I, w:g:c/,-.l IJiine.ic. ^Itlilh'dVy tfor IHoe 1S07, ■/ w. fu!.].: I •; <; / ' ■■■I t • *. i^- M, #• THE VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK ROUND THE WORLD: WITH AN ACCOUNT OF HIS Unfortunate Death at Owhyhte, ONK OP THE Sandwich Islands, r'^m.^'^^'mmim' LONDON: P^ted bv T. Maiden, Sberbotirn>lane4 For Anr Lemoine, White Rose Court, Coleman-Street, And J. Koe, No. 90, Houndsdit^ Sold by all the BookseUcit Ui ' The United Kinfdom. ■% » 1, SC^ ::> A ^ / >■ .^•^ : '".* ^ O ,*. ' V ■? 5 f J tst I :;^' *svjr -^ -A-.i •^ ;-.♦ •# ♦IIH.'f* He «»>! *-'^,;-- -l^fis^j ./ I I THE VOYAGES V OF .';'•! I'.r' 1 .,t . .| CAPTAIN JAMES COOK ROUND THE WORLD. ' ■"■■ '.rt?! FIRST VOYAGE. THE di^eis of great men always claim, and meet with, the approbation of the world; but when virtue is the governing principle' which actuates the mind of an illustrious person, and leads him on to ac- tions great and noble, from which honor and humanity never swerve, how truly just is the applause he receives, and how nobl)^ disinterested are his motives, in, per* haps, risking his life, his reputation, or the loss or hit dearest connections, for comparatively little else than the empty praises of court parasites, or the more frothy popularity of a fickle muhttude I In whatever soil ge- nius or merit is sown, it will burse forth, according to its strength, with as much splendor as the sun from be- hind a ck)ud : if difficulties obstruct its progress, the more furious it will burn, till it is properly cultivated, and advantageously employed. 1 riis is exemplifitd in the life of the following great and humane commander, who was both an honor to his profession, and an orna- ment to his country, and whose humble origin only re- flects a greater degree of histre on his splendid talents. Captain Cook was born at Marton, m Cleveland, a village about four miles from Great Ayton, in York- shire, on the 27th of October, i72b. His father, who ^ ri ( •; 4 VOYAGES or lived in the humble station of a farmei'o servant, mar- ried a woman in the same sphere of life with himself; and both were noted in their neighboutliood for thtir honesty, sobriety, and industry ; and whtn our naviga- tor was about two years old, his father and family re- moved to Great Ayton, and was appointed to superin- tend a considerable farm belonging to the late Thomas Scpitowe, Esq. known by the name of Airyholm. As the father long continued in this trust, the son, of course, followed the sanie employment, as far as his tender years would admit. His eafly educati' n appears to have been very slender; but at the age of thirteen we find him put under the tuition of Air. Pullen, who taught school at Ayton, where he learned the rudi- ments of arithmetic and book-keeping, and is said to have shewn a remarkable facility in acquiring the science of numbers. Id the beginning of 1745, when young Cook was s.e« renteen years old, his father bound him apprentice to WiiUam Sanderson, for four years, to learn the grocery ad haberdashery business, at Snaith, a populous fishmg wown about ten miles from Whitby. But as he evinced a strong partiality for a maritime life, for which his prer dilection was probably strengthened by the situation of the place, and the company with which, it is probable, he associated, after a year and a half's servitude, on some trivial disagreement with his master, he obtained a re- lease from his engagements, and determined to follow the bent of his inclination. ^^ ^^ i rr In July, 1740*, he was bound apprentice to Messrs. Walker, of Whitby, for the term of three years, which he served to the full satisfaction of his masters. His first voyage was on board the ship Freelove^ burden of about four hundred and fifty tons, chiefly employed in the coal trade from Newcastle to London. In May, 1748, his master ordered him nome to assist in rigging and fitting for sea a fine new ship, named the Three Brothers, of six hundred tons, '^i his was de- signed to improve him in his profession, and to qualify him for a better birth, when his servitude should expire^ ^ i CAPTAIN COOK. 5 After two coal voyages in this vessel, she was taken into the service of government, and sent as a trrnsport to Middleburgh, to convey some troops te Dublin. 1 hese being landed at their destination, another corps was taken on beard, and brought to Liverpool. From thence the ship proceeded for Deptford, where she was paid off in April, 1749. 'J'he remaining part of the season Cook served on board her in the Norway trade* After this being honorably released from his engage- ments, he entered on board a ship employed in tho Ikltic trade, and performed several voyages, of no great importance, during the two following years. In 1752, his old master promoted him to the rank of mate of one of his ships, called the Friendship, in which capacity he acted for some time, with so much credit to himself and satisfaction to his owners, that it is said he was of- fered the place of captain. This, however, he declined 5 and fortunate was it for his country he did so. In the spring of 1755, hostilities commenced between Great Britain and France. As press-warrants had been issued, Mr. Cook, who then lay in the river Thames, afraid of being pressed, resolved, if possible, to conceal himself; but afterwards reflecting on the difficulty of this, he adopted the resolution of entering as a volunteer in the royal navy, ** having a mind,'* as he expressed himself, '* to try his fortune in that way." Agreeable to this design, he repaired to a house of rendezvous at VVapping, and entered on board the Eagle, a sixty gun ship^ at that time commanded by Captain liamer. To this ship, Captain (afterwards Sir Hugh) Falliser being appointed in October following^ Cook's diligence and attention to the duties of his pro- fession did not escape the notice of that intelligent com- mander, and he met with every encouragement com- patible with his humble station. By this time Cook*s merit having been blazoned among his connections and friends in his native country, some of them generously interested themselves in his behalf, and procured a letter of recommendation to his Captain from Air. Osbaldeston, member of Parliament A 3 i I i 6 VOYAGES OF for Scarborough, in which it was requested he would point out in what manner they could contribute to hit promotion. Captain Falliser did full justice to Cook*s character, and suggested that a master's warrant might, perhaps, be procured for him, by which he would be put in a situation suited to his talents, and be enabled to reflect credit on those who honored him with their «f patronage. In consequence of this, interest was made for a mas- ter's warrant, which he ( btained to the Grampus sloop, in May, 175Q; but this appointment did not take place, as the former master unexpectedly returned. In a few daya, however, he was mace master of the Garland ; but here, too, he was disappointed ; for, on inquiry, it was found that the ship had already sailed. At last he was appointed to the Mercury, which was destined for North America, under the command of Sir Charles Saunders, who, in conjunction with General Wolfe, was then engaged in the memorable siege of Quebec. During that signal transaction, it was found necessa- ry to cbtain the soundings of the river Sr Lawrence, directly opposite to tlie Irentn camp at Montmorency and 3eauport. As this was universally esteen^ed to be a dangerous and difficult service, and as Cook's sagacity and intrepidity were now well known. Captain Palliser recommended him for the undertaking; and in the choice that was made, the service was not injured. Cook executed his office in the completest manner, and to the entire satisfaction of his superiors. Ih did not, however, effect this without great risk. Being engaged in this pursuit for several successive nights, he was at Jast discovered by the enemy, who sent a number of canoes, filled with Indians, to surround him ; and he had no other alternative, but to make for the Isle of Orleans, where he was so closely pursued, that he had scarcely leaped from the bow of the boat, before the Indians entered by the stern, and carried her off in triumph. It is supposed that before this period Cook had not used a pencil, or was acquainted with the principles (jC if CAPTAIN COOK. T drawing; but such was ihe vigor of his mind, and his aptitude for the acquisition of knowledge, thai he soon mastered every object lo which he applied. And, not- withstanding the disadvantages under which he labored, he furnished the Admiral with as complete a draught of the channel and its soundings, as could have been furnished by the most expert surveyor in peace, and by day)igl)t. Soon after this, our navigator performed another ser- vice, not less important, and which redounds equally to his honor. The navigation of tht river St. Lawrence i is both difficult and dangerous, and was then purticu- larly so to the English, who were sirai ^^ersin that quar- ter. The Admiral, therefore, who had conceived a very favorable opinion of Mr. Cook's abilities, appointed him to survey the river below Quebec, which he also executed with the same diligence and abihiy he had displayed on the former occasion. This chart of the ri- ver, when completed, was published, with soundings and directions for safely navigating it ; and so great was the accuracy observed^ that it has superseded all other surveys. After the conquest at Canada, so glorious to every person who had a share in it, Mr. Cook was appointed master of the Northumberland, under Lord Colvill, on the 2d of September, 1739. In this ship his Lordship continued the following winter as Commodore at Hah-^ fax ; and Cook's conduct, in his new station, did not fail, as on former occasions, to gain him the friendship and esteem of his commander. Sensible that he was now in the road to promotion, he shewed a laudable desire to qualify himself to adoni his profession, by devoting his leisure hours to the study of such branches of knowledge as reflect a lustre on a naval life. At Halifax he first read Euclid's iLlements, and studied astronomy. 'I'he books he was able to pro- cure were few indeed ; but application and perseve- rance supplied many deficiencies, and ena'-led him to rnake a progress, which a man of less genius could not attain under much superior advantages. 7^ V 1 i . i • :[ ♦ .li ' VOYAGES OP A lieutenant's commission was presented to him on the 1st of April, 1760, and he daily advanced in the career of glory. In September, 1762, he assisted at the recapture of Newfoundland, after which the En- glish fleet remained some time at Placentia, in order to put that place into a better state of defence. During this period Mr. Cook had another opportunity of dis- playing his diligence, and manifesting his zeal in the service of his country : he surveyed the harbours and heights of that place, and, by this means, attracted the notice of Captain (afterwards Admiral) Graves, who was at that time Governor of Newfoundland. Captain Graves having entered into conversation with him, found him possessed of such intelligence and judg- ment, that he conceived a very favourable opinion of his abilities in general, and his nautical skill in parti- cular; and in cultivating a longer acquaintance with him, was still more and more prepossessed in his fa- vour. Endowed with a vigorous and active mind, and sti- mulated, perhaps, by the success that had attended his past labours, and the hopes of future promotion. Cook continued to display the most unremitting assi- duity to make himself acquainted with the North American coast, and to facilitate its navigation ; while the esteem which Captain Graves had justly conceived for him, was heightened by the concurrent testimonies of approbation, which all the oflicers, under whom he had served so freely, paid him. At the close of 1762, Lieutenant Cook returned to England; and on the 21st of December he married at Barking, in Essex, a young lady of the name of Batts, whom ne tenderly loved, and who had every claim to his warmest affection and esteem. It is said that Cook had been godfather to this lady, and that he declared at that time his wish for their future union. If this anecdote is true, it is a singular instance of the firmness of his character, and the strength of his attachment. His situation in life, however, and the high and impor- tant services to >vhich he was cailed« did not sufli him :)l CAPTAIN COOK. irrj to enjoy, vviihout inierruption, that matrimonial felicity which both parties seem to have been so well quaUhe4 to taste. On the conclusion of the war in 17(33, Captain Gra\es was again sent out as Governor of Newfound- land ; and as that island was considered of great com- mercial importance, and bad been a principal object of. contention between Great Britain and France, the Go- vernor obtained, at his pressing solicitation, an estas- blishment for the survey of its coasts ; and Lieutenant Cook was appointed to c^rry this plan into execution. lie therefore went out with his friend the Governor ; and having surveyed the small Islands of St. Pierre and. Miquelon, which, by treaty, had been ceded to France, after the business was finished, he returned to England at the close of the season ; and in the beginning of the following year, he accompanied bis former patron. Sir Hugh Palliser, who had been appointed Governor of Labradore and Newfoundland, and prosecuted his sur- veys of the coasts as before. For this employment. Cook was, by the unanimous voice of the best judges, deemed extremely well qualified; and the charts which he afterwards publish- ed, reflect the highest credit on his abilities. He also ex<^ plored the interior of Newfoundland, in a much more accurate ^manner than had ever been done before ; and by penetrating into the heart of the country, disc<^- vered several large lakes, the position of which he ex- actly ascertained. In this service he appears to have been occasionally engaged till 1707. However, we find him with Sir William Burnaby, on the Jamaica station, in 1765; and that officer having occasion to send d'spatches to the Governor of Jucatan, relative to the iongwood^cuiters m the Bay of Honduras, Lieute- nant Cook was selected for that mission, and he per- formed it in a mainer that entitled him to the appro- bation ,o( the Admiral. A relation of this voyage and i journey was published in 17£iy, under the title cl *' Re- marks xjn a Passage from the River Balise, in the Bay of Honduras, to lylerida, the tapi^ai 9^ the Province 7'' tmm PPM I i I 10 VOYAGES OP of Jucatati, in the Spanish 'West Indies, by Lieutenant Cook.»' That Cook had, by this time, made a considerable proficiency in practical astronomy, is evident from a short paper, drawn up by him, whith was inserted in the seventh volume of the Philosophical Transactions, entitled, ** An Observation of ah Eclipse of the Sun at the Island cf Newfoundland, August 5, 1760, with the Longitude of the Place of Observation deduced from it/* This Observation was ttiade at one of the Burgeo Islands, near Cape Ray, on the south-west ex- tremity of Newfoundland ; and Cook> paper having^ been communicated to Mr. Witchell, he compared it with ail observation made on the same eclipse by Pro- fessor Efornsby, and thence comput-ed the oiflerence of longitude of the places of observation, making proper allowance for parallax, and the prolate spheroidal figure of the earth. That Cook was now accounted' an able itiathematician, the adnrissiun of this paper into the Philosophical Transactions, and the notice that was taken of it, will sufficiently verify. For the present reign it was reserved to carry the spirit of enterprize to its fullest extent, and to direct it to the accomplishment of the noblest purposes. As soon as the return of peace gave an opportunity for promot- ing the interests of science, by enlarging the bounds of discovery, two voyages were projected by his present Majesty, which were perforn>ed, as has been seen in our preceding volume, by Captains Byron, Wailis, and Carteret ; and before the two latter gentlemen re- turned, a third was resolved on, the principal object of which was the improvement of astronomy. It had been long before calculated, that the planet Venus would pass over the Sun's disk in 17(59; there- fore it was judged that the most proper place for ob- serving this phenomenon, would be either at the Mar- quesas, or at one of those islands^ to which lasman had given the several appellations of Amsterdam, Rotter- dam, and Middleburgh ; but which are now better known under the general name of the Friendly isles. eutenant siderable t from a terted in nsactionsy the Sun rae, with deduced ne of the ■west ex- ?r having^ tnpared it e by Pro- fepericc of tig proper dal figure d' an able into fhe that was > carry the direct it As soon r promot- jounds of s present n seen in alli»> and emen re- pal object 3$ ■)W CAPTAIN COOK. Jl This being a matter of much importance in •the science of astronomy, the Royal Society, with a laudable zeal for its advancement, presented a memorial to his Ma- jesty, requesting, among other things, that a vessel might be fitted out at tne e they at last I ► ;i . 1 l! 1 » I I' I h- 12 • VOYAGES or fixed on the Endeavour, a vessel of three hundred and 8«veiity tons, which had been built for the coal trade. During this period, Captain VVallis having returned froAi hi^ voyage round the world, and having signified to the Royal Society, that Port Roya) Harbour, in King George's Island, now called Otaheite, would be the most convenient place for observing the transit* his opinion was adopted^ and the observers were ordered to repair thither. « '- '*' ' Mr. Charles Green, the coadjutor of Dr. firadley, the astronomer royal, was nominated to assist Captain tjook in conducting th& astronomical part of the under« taking ; and he was accompanied also by Joseph JBanks, Esq. the present President of the Royal Society, whose baronetage, to which he has been since raised, reflects honour on hit Sovereign and the order. This friend of science, at an early period of life, possessed of an opulent fortune, and zealous to apply it to the best ends, embarked on this tedious and hazardous enter- prise, animated by the wish alone of improving himself, and enlarging the bounds of knowledge. Pie took two draughtsmen with hitn, and had likewise a secretary, and tour servants, in his retinue. Dr. Solander, an ingenious and learned Swede, who I bad been appointed to a place in the British Museum, and was an adept in natural philosophy, likewise joined t the expedition. Possessed of the enthusiasm with which Linnaeus inspired his disciples, he braved danger in the prosecution of his favourite studied; and being a man of erudition and capacity, he added no small eclat to the voyage in which he embarked. Not«\'ith$tandingthe principal intention of this expe- dition was to observe the transit of Venus, it was thought proper to make it comprehend other objects likewise. Captain Cook was therefore directed, after |^ he had accomplished his main business, to proceed in making farther discoveries in the South Seas, which) now began to be explored with uncommon resolution. The complement of the £ndeavour consisted of! eighty-four persons. She wav victualled for eighreen| , ' 6APTAIN COOK. 13 months; and carried ten carriage and twelve swivel guiis, with abundance of ammunition, and all manner of stores, were taken on board. Being completely iStted for sea. Captain Cook sailed from Deptfwd on the 30th of July, n68, and on the I3ih of August anchored in Plymouth riound, from which, after a few days stay, they proceeded on their voyage. The first land they made, after their leaving the Channel, was on the 2d of Stptember, when Cape Finisterre, and Cape Ortugal, in Spain, both came in view. They arrived on the 13th at Madeira, and an- chored in Fonchial Road. Here unfortunately they lost Mr. Weir, the master's mate, who, in heaving the author, fell overboard, and was drowned. They staid here tilJ the 19th. On the 23d they saw the Peak of TenerifTe. 'I his mountain is near fifteen . thousand four hundred feet high. On the 29th they I saw Bona Vista, one of the Cape de Verd Islands. From ^TenerilTe to Bona Vista they observed flying-fish in '^considerable numbers, which appeared very beautiful, ,. their sides resembling burnished silver. Mr. Banks, on the Tth of October, caught what is called a Portuguese man of war, together with several marine animals of tl^e Molusca tribe. On the 25th they crossed the Line, with the usual forms. On the 29ih, in the evening, they saw the luminous appearance of the sea mentioned by naviga- tors, it emitted rays of light resembling those of light- ning. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander threw out a cast- "ng-net, when a species of the Medusa was caught, re- embling a metallic substance greatly heated, emitting p whitish light, borne crabs were also caught at the ame time, which were exceeding small, yet gave a ery glittering appearance . These animals have not yet been described by naturalists. , 1 here becoming a scarcity of provisions, it was de- termined to put into Rio de Janeiro, where they ar- rived on the I3th of November. Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace to the city, to inform the governor, that they put in there fbr re- i'F ■ J 14 VOYAGES OF freshments and a pilot. The pinnace returned without the lieutenant, who was detained till the captain came on shore. Soon after a ten oared boat, filled with sol- diers, came up, and rowed round the ship, without speaking ; and soon after a second -boat came up, with several of the Viceroy's officers ; they enquired whence the Endeavour came, what she had on board; her number of men, guns, and destination. These, and many other questions, were answered without equivo- cation; \xhen they apologized for detaining the lieute- nant, and other steps they had taken, which they justified on the plea of custom. • . Captain Cook went on shore on the 14th, and ob- tained lea«e to purchase what he wanted, on condition of employing ^n inhabitant as a factor. The Captain judging that the Viceroy imagined they were come to f rade, endciavoured to convince him of his mistake, by acquainting him, that they were bound to the southward, to observe the transit of Venus ; a very interesting ob- ject to the advancement of na' i;2ation, of which phe- nomenon he appeared to be totally ignorant. The Viceroy having ordered that only the Captain, and such sailors as were necessary to be upon duty, should be suflTered to land, they, notwithstanding, at- tempted to come on shore, but were prevented by the guard-boat. Several of the crew, however, unknown ?^^ to the centinel, stole out of the cabin window at mid- night, letting themselves down by a rope into the boat; and rowing to some unfrequented part of the shore, made excursions up the country, though not so far as they wished. When the Captain complained of these restrictions, the only answer he obtained was, that hej acted in conformity to his master's orders. It was now agreed to present two memorials to the Viceroy; one was written by the Captain, the other by Mr. Banks, their answers were no way satisfactory. The Captain judging it necessary, in vindication of his compliance,, to urge the Viceroy to an act of force in the execution of his orders, sent Lieutenant Hicks with a packetj with directions not to allow a guard in his boat. Th^ u .1 CAPTAIN COOK. H olficer of thtf guard-boat did not oppose him by force» bdt accortipanymg the lieutenant on shore, went to the Viceroy, and acauainted him with what had passed, Which induced his excellency to refuse opening the packet, commanditlg the lieutenant to retufn. He found a soldier had been put on board the boat in his absence, as a guard> and insisted upon his quitting it. The officer now seized the boat's crew, and conducted them to prison, under a guard ; and the lieutenant was sent back to the ship, guarded likewise. When Mr. Hicks had acquainted the Captain with these transac- iiotii, the latter wfote to the Viceroy, demanding his b6at and tnen, and inclosed the very memorial which be refused to receive' from the lieutenant. This express was sent by a petty officer, and the Viceroy promised to return an immediate answer. In ithe interim, in a sudden gust of wind, the long-boat, ibvith four pipes of I'um, went adrift, with a small skiff %f Mr. Banks's that was fastened to her. The misfor- likne was still greater, as the pinnace was on shore. sChe yawl was manned immediately, but did not return |tm next morning, when she brought all the people on [board. From them Captain Cook learnt, that the [Jong-boat having 6Iled with water, they had brought Iber to a grappling, and quitted her; and falling in livith a reef of rocks, on their return, they were com- piled to cut adrift the little boat belonging to Mr. mks. In *his situation the Captain dispatched ano- ther letter to the Viceroy, acquainting him with the iccident ; at the same time desiring he would assist them with a boat to recover their own : this was ac- companied with a fresh demand of the pinnace and her Srew. His excellency ?t length complied with both the request and demand ; and the same day they for- tunately recovered the long-boat and skiff. Mr. Banks, on the 20th, artfully eluded the vigilance )f the guard, and went on shore. He avoided the kuwn, and passed the day in the fields, where the chief objv.ct of his curiosity lay. B2 ! M' ^1 > 10 V0YAGE5 OF^ . Being prepared for so, wi(h water and provisions* they took on board a pilot the 1st of December; but • the wind beinj? contrary, they were prevented getting out. On the 7th, having passed the fort, the pilot w^t discharged, and the guard-boat quitted them at the same time. . »;? ". ^ I'he town of Janeiro is situated on the west sid« of the river, from which it extends about thr*e quarters of a mile. I'he ground on which it stands is pretty level. Some of its streets run parallel from north to south, and are intersected by others at right angles. The principal street is near a hundred feet in width; the other streets are commonly twenty or thirty feet wide. The houses adjoining to the principal street . have three stories; but in other places they are v«ry irr.egular, though built after |he same manner as in 4^isbon. The mines are extremely richj and lie a considerable way up the country. They are kppt so private, that any person found upon the road which leads to them is hung upon the next tree, unless he can give a satisfac*- tory account of the cause of his being in that situation, ^'ear forty thousand negroes are annually imported to dig in them, which are so pernicious to the human frame^ and occasion so great a mortality amongst the poor wretches so employed, that in the year 17dS twenty thousand more were drafted from the town of Kio, to supply the deficiency of the former number. On Thursday, December the 8th, 17(33, having procured all necessary svipplies, they left Hio de Ja- neiro. They did not meet with any material occurrence ffom this time to the ii^d, when they were surrounded by great numbers of porpoises, of a singular species, which are about fifteen feet in length, and of an ash colour. On the 23d they observed an eclipse of the moon ; and about seven o'clock in the morning, a small white cloud appeared in tlie west, from which a train of fire issued,' exieridin^^ itself "westerly : about two minutes CAPTAIN COOK. J7 after they beard two distinct and loud explosions, im- mediately succeeding each other like cannon ; after nvhich the cloud soon disappeared. On the 4th of January, 176Q, they saw an appear- ance of land, which they mistook for Pepy*s island ; but on their standing towards it, it proved what the sailors call a fog-bank. On the 14th they entered the Straits of La Maire ; but the tide being against them, they were driven out with great violence, and the waves ran so high, that the ship's bowsprit was fre- quently under water; at length, however, they ^ot anchorage at the entrance of a little cove, which Capiuin^Cook called St. rinceut's Buy, On Sunday the i5ih, having anchored in twelve fa- thoms water, upon coral rocks, before a small cove, distant from shore about a mile, two of the natives came down upon the beach, in expectation that they would land ; but this situation ailbrding little shelter, the Captain got under sail again, and the natives re- tired. About two o'clock they anchored in the Bay of > Good Success; and the Captain went on shore, ac- i companied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, to search for a watering-place, and confer with the Indians. These gentlemen proceeded about a hundred yards before the Captain, when two of the Indians, having advanced forward, and seated themselves, they rose, upon Mr. Banks and the doctor's coming up, and each cif them threw away a small stick, which they had before in their hands ; this they did in such a direction, that the stick flew both from themselves and the stran- gers, which they meant as a token of peace. They then returned briskly towards their companions, who [bad remained at some distance behind, and made signs [to the strangers to advance, which the) accordingly complied with. The reception the gentlemen met with was friendly, though the manner was uncouth. The civility was returned, by the distribution of beads and tribbons, with which the Indians were much pleased. After a mutual conBdence had been thus established, the rest of the English party joined, and a ceneral Bi 1 I i t. (f lUt VOYAGES OF conversation, though of a singular kind, ensued. Thrcp of the Indians now returned w.th the Captain anid hit friends to the ship, whom they clothed and entertained. I'hey refused to drink rum or brandy after tasting them; intimating by signs, that it burnt their throats. They were of a middle stature, with broad flat faces, low foreheads, high cheeks, noses inclining to flatness, wide nostrils, small black eyes, large mouths, small but indifferent teeth, and black straight hair, falling down over their ears and forehea*!, which was commonly smeared with brown and red paint; and, like all the original natives of America, they were beardless. Their garments were the skins of guanicos and seals, which they wrapped round their shoulders. "Ihe women have a small string tied round each ancle, and wear each a flap of skin round the middle. Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Mr. Buchan, and several other gentlemen, accompanied by servants, went a considerabl«i way into the country, where they found p^arshy ground, and had very cold blasts of wind and snow to contend with; however, after great fatigue, they at last attained a considerable eminence they had in view. Here they found a great variety of plants, that gratified their curiosity, and repaid them for their toil it was now near eight o'clock in the evening; and Dr. Solander, who knew, from experience, that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness that is not easily resisted, entreated his friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to them : his words were, " Whoever sits ** down, will sleep; and whoever sleeps, will wake no ** more.'* Every one seemed accordingly armed with resolution ; but on a sudden, the cold became so intense as to threaten the most direful effects. Jt was very re- n.arkable, that Dr. Solander himself, who had so for- cibly admonished and alarmed his party, should be the first who insisted upon being suffered to repose. In spite of the most earnest entreaties of his friends, he lay down amidst the snow, and it was with great dif ficulty they kept him awake. One of the black servants <»»«•-#. ^ r •( ■ST! r >--i*. 8, went a CAPTAIN COOK. \9. became also weary and faint, and was upon the point of following the doctor's example. Mr. Buchan was therefore detached with a party to make a fire at the first commodious spot they could meet with. Mr. Banks, with four more, remained with the doctor, and JRichmond the black, who, with the utmost difliciiltyj, were induced to come on; but after walking a few miles farther, they expressed their inability of procc ed- ing. When tlic black was informed, that if he re- mained there, lie would soon be frozen to death, he replied, that he was so exhausted with fatigue, that death would be a relief to him. Doctor S'olander said he was not unwilling to go, but that lie must first take some sleep, notwithstanding what he had before de- clared to the company. '' * .r.,:^.:' . ^.ii .V-V,..:, Upon this they both sat down, supported by bushes, and in a short time fell fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a fire was kindled 1 about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. feBanks then waked the doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs already, tho'ugh it was but a few mi- nutes since he sat down ; he nevertheless consented to go on. Every measure taken to relieve the black proved ineflfectua! ; he remained motionless, and they were obliged to leave him in the care of the other black servant and a sailor, who appeared to have been the least hurt by the cold ; and they were to be re- lieved as s®on as two others were sufficiently warmed to supply their places. The doctor was with much dif- ficulty got to the fire. Those whw were sent to relieve the companions of Richmond, returned in about half an hour without being able to find them. There was a fall of snow which incessantly continued for near two hours, and there remained no hopes of seeing the three absentees again, at least, alive. About twelve o'clock," however, a great shouting was heard at a dis- tance, which gave inexpressible satisfaction to every one present. Mr. Banks, and four others, went tbrtli and met the sailor, with just strength enough to walk ; he was immediately sent to the fire, and they pro- ( i; I i !! 20 VOYAGES OP ceeded to seek for the two others. They found Rich- mond upon his legs, but incapable of moving them ; the other black was lying insensible upon the ground. All endeavours to brine them to the fire were fruitless; ■or was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on ac- count of the snow that had fallen, and was still falling; BO that there was no alternative, and they were com- pelled to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate; making them, however, a bed of boughs of trees, and covering them very thick with the same. As all hands had been employed in endeavouring to move the two blacks to the fire, and had therefore been exposed to the cold lor near an hour and a half, some of them began to be afflicted in the same manner as those they went to relieve. At length, however, they reached the fire, where they passed the night in a very disagreeable manner. The party that set out from the ship consisted of twelve, of whom two were already judged to be dead : it was doubtful whether a third would be able to return on board ; and Mr« Buchan, a fourth, who had just recovered from fits, seemed threatened wiih them again. They had wan<« dered so far into the internal parts, that the ship was a long day's journey distant; and they had not provision! left suf]^cient to afford the company a single meal. The next morning, at day-break, nothing presented itself to view all round them but snow, the trees being ecjually covered with it as the ground ; and the blasts of \ymd were so violent and frequent, that their journey was rendered impracticable, and there was much reason to dread perishing with cold and famine. How-* ever, at about six in the morning they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being delivered, by discover- ing the sun through the clouds, which gradually dimi- nished. Previous to their setting out, messengers were dispatched to the unhappy negroes, who returned with the melancholy news of their death. At ten o'clock they set out on their journey to the ship; and in about three hours, to their great astonishment and satisfaction, they found themselves upon the shore^ much nearer to CAPTAIN COOK. ^t the slilp than tluir ij;4)si bangumtr expedations ci>u\A have flattered them. The coniiratulari(tns every one en bqard expre6>3cd »t their itturni can better be ima> gincd than described. Ob the iJOth, ^ir. Banks and Dr. Solander made another excursion into the country. After walking for some time, they arrived at a bmall town, consisting ol about a dozen miserable huts, constructed without art or regularity, in the form ol" a sugar loaf, with a place left open, which answered the double purpose of a door and chimney. Mr. Banks observed some Euro- pean articles amongst them, from whence it wasjudged, that they travelled at times to the north, as no ship had toucl.ed at this part of Terra del Fuego for some years. ' -^ ^' '--;'',' y ..'-''V' ^\ . . ' ' On Thursday, January the 56th, Captain Cook [weighed anchor j and* the weather being very calm, Mr. Banks sailed in a small boat to shoot birds, when le killed some sheerwaters and albatrosses; the latter proved very good food. The doubhng of Cape Horn, which has been reprc- i tented as a very dangerous course, and it was eenerally ^thought passing through the Strait of Magellan wis jless perilous, the Endeavour doubled it with as little Wanger as the North Foreland on the Kentish coast ; Ithe heavens were fair, the wind temperate, the wea- Uher pleasant ; and, being near shore, they had a very Idistinct view of the coast. About ten o'clock on Tuesday, April the 4th, Peter Jriscoe, servant to Mr. Banks, discovered land to the south, about three or four leagues distant. 'I'he Cap- lain immediately haiiied up for it, and found it to be in island of an oval form, with a lake or lagoon in the :enire, that extended over the greatest part of it. The border of laiJ8 which surrounded the lake, was it| Jmany places low and narrow, especially towards the south, where the beach consisted of a reef of rocks j three places on the north side had the same appearance. Captain Cook came within a mile on the north side ; but though he cast a line of one hundred and thirty »V •' ^', *- -'-W ^•«* 'a«' 4^^ V wt^ 1 TT niih ( I 1! 22 VOYAGES OF fathomsy he found no bottom, and could not meet with any anchorage. The Captain saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west. He reached it by sun-set, when it ap- peared a low island, covered with wood, in form cir- cular, about a mile in circumference. No inhabitants were visible, nor any cocoa-nut trees, though the En- deavour had reached the shore within half a mile ; yet the island appeared covered with verdure of various tinges. Ihis island the gentlemen ua board named Thrumb Cap. On the 10th, upon their looking out for the island to which they were destined, they saw land ahead. The next morning it appeared very high and mountainous, and it was known to be King George the Third's Island, so named by Captain Waltis, but bv the na« tives called Otaheite. The calms prevented the En- deavour from approaching it till the morning of the 12th, when a breeze springing up, several canoes were making towards the ship. Each canoe had in it young plantains; and branches of trees, as tokens of peace and friendship ; and they were handed up the sides of the ship by the people in one of the canoes, who made signals in a very expressive manner, intimating, that they desired these emblems of pacification should be placed in a conspicuous part of the ship ; and they were accordingly stuck amongst the rigg.ng, at which they testified their approbation. Their cargoes con- sisted of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread-fruit, apples, and figs, which were very acceptable to the crew, and were readily purchased. The ship lay off and on all night ; and in the morn- ing of the 13th they entered Port Royal Harbour, in the Island of Otaheite, and anchored within half a r'iile of the shore. A great number of the natives im- mediately came off in their canoes, and bartered their commodities for beads, and other trinkets. An elderly man, named Owhaw, who was known to Mr. Gore, and others who had visited this island with Captain VVallis, came on board ; and as he was considered a ^i.^ i-mt CAPT-AIN COOK. '23 useful man, On Saturday, thfe 15jh, the Captain, attended by [r. Banks, and some of the other gentlemen, went in shore to fix on a proper spot to erect a small fort )r their defence during their stay on the island ; and le ground was accordingly marked out for that pur- )se, a great number of the natives looking on all the hile, and behaving in the most peaceable and friendly anner. Mr. Banks hating gone a shooting in the woods, me marines, and a petty officer, were appointed to ard the ttnt in the interim; while several of the tives accompanied the gentlemen in iliis excursion, fore this party had gone far, they were alarmed by discharge of two pieces, fired by the tent guard, on their return to the tent, it appeared, that an ian had taken an opportunity to snatch away one of sentinel's muskets ; whereupon a young midship* n, under whose command the party was, very rm- dently ordered the marines to fire, which they did ediaiely amongst the thickest of the fugitive In- ns, several of whom were wounded ; but as the inal did not fall, they pursued, and shot him dead, en Mr. Banks heard of the affair, he was greatly leased with the guard ^ and he used his utmost en- vours to accommodate the difference ; and through mediation of an old man, prevailed on many of natives to come over to them, bringing plantain- , their usual signal of peace ; and clapping their s on their breasts, thty cried Tyau, which signifies dship. ot many of the natives, however, appeared next ning upon the beach ; and none of them came on d. From hence Mr. Banks and the other gentle- concluded, that their apprehensions were not en* ly removed, more especially as eveii Owhavv had aken them. The Captain, in consequence of these greeable appearances, brought the ship nearer to e, and moored her so as to make her broadside bear the spot which had been marked for erecting the . In tho evening he landed with some of the gen- C M H i't «( 26 VOYAGES or tlenien, when the Indians assembled around them, aii( they trafficked together as before. ^ , The fort began to be erected on the 1 8th. Some A he company were employed in throwing up jntrenclil mentSy whilst others were occupied in cutting fascint| and pickets, which the Indians of thejr own accon cheerfully assisted in bringing from the woods. Thi day the natives brought down such quantities of bread j fruit and cocoa-nuts, that it was necessary to r^Jec them, and to intimate to them, that the compan would not want any for two days. Beads were tia: ficked this day for every thing. ^ Mr. Monkhouse, the surgeon, in his evening wal saw the body of the man who h^d been shot at tl tent. It was deposited in ^ shed, close to the houi where he had resided when alive. The corpse w; placed on a bier, the frame of which was wood, wii a matted bottom, supported by posts about iiye fei high. The corpse was covered with ^ mat, and ovi that a wrhite cloth : by its $ide lay a wooden mace, ac towards the head two cocoa >nut shells ; towards ti feet was a bunch of green leaves and small dried bougt tied together, and stuck ii> the ground, near which \r a stone, the size of a cocoa-nut : here was also plaa|i a young plantain-tree and a stone axe. The nativ^ seemed displeased at his approaching the body. On the 25th, several knives belonging to the officd were missing ; upon which Mr. Banks, who had lej his among the rest, accused one of the chiefs w having stolen it, which caused him to be very unhapp as he happened to be innocent of the fact, Mr. BankiJ servant having mislaid it j and the rest were product in a rag by a native. This chief was some time befa he would (brget this accusation, the tears starting f[a| bis eyes; and he made signs with the knife, that if: had ever been guilty of such an action as was imputi to him, he would suffer his throat to be cut. Howeve in general, these people, from the highest to the Iowa are too much addicted to pilfering. On the 26th i swivel guns were mounted upon the ibrt, which p; CAPTAIN COOK. 27 natives into great consternation ; and caused seve- H fishermen, who lived upon the point, to remove trther off, imagining they were to be fired at in a few. iys. '1 he day following, Tubora Tumaida, with a friend, id three of his women, dined ai the fort. Soon after U departure, he returned in much agitation, to ac- laint Mr. Banks, that the ship's butcher had threaten- 10 cut his wife's throat, upon her refusing to sell a stone hatchet, which he had taken a fancy to, a nail. It clearly appeared he had been culpable, ^d he was flogged on board, in sight of several In- ms. As soon as the first stroke was given they in- rfered, and earnestly entreated that he might be un- |ld. This being refused, they burst into tears, and [wed great concern. "luring the forenoon of this day, canoes were con- lally coming in, and the tents at the fort were filled people of both sexes. Mr. Molineux, master of Endeavour, went on shore, and seeing a woman^ )se name was Oberea, he declared she was the per- he judged to be the queen of the island, when he le there on board the Dolphin in the last voyage. [e eyes of every one were now fixed on her, who ' made so distinguished a figure in the accounts that been given by the first discoverers of this island. ie person of the Queen Oberea was of a large make, d tall : she was about forty years of age ; her skin lite : her eyes had great expression : she had been idsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline, was soon conducted to tiie ship, and went on board, kompanied with some of her family. Many presents ■fe made her, particularly a child's doll, which seem • the most to engross her attention. Captain Cook. )mpanied her on shore j and as soon a? they landed, ^ presented him with a hog, and some plantains, ich were carried to the fort in procession, Oberea I the Captain bringing up the rear. They met )tahah, who, though not king, seemed to be at this »e invested with sovereign authority. He imme- C2 IHil ; I h: i i 1 ■ '*' 'lii-t 'i !^ VOYAGES OP Jiately became jealous of the queen's having the doll; which made ihcm find it necessary to compliment him with one also. On Saturday the 29th, in the forenoon, Mr. Bankj| paid a visit to Oberea, who was still asleep under the | awning of her canoe. Upon entering her chamber, to his- great surprise, he found her in bed with a band- some young fellow, about five*and twenty ; upon which he immediately retired with some precipitation, not a little disconcerted at this discoj/ery ; but he wai soon given to understand, that such amours were by no means considered scandalous. The queen soon dressed herself, and waited upoii Mr. Banks without the least emotion. The next day, Sunday, the 30th, Tomio came running to the tents, and taking Mr. Banks by the arm, to whom they applied ii> all emergent cases,, told him that Tubora Tumaida was dying, owing u 3pm/ething which had been given him to eat by his peo- ple, and prayed him to go instantly to him. Accord' ingly Mr. Banks went, and found the Indian very sick. lie was told, that he had be.en vomiting, and had tiirown up a leaf, which they said contained some oi the poison which he had taken. Upon examinisg :..e.. leaf, Mr. Banks ibund it to be nothing more than tov bacco, which the Indian had begged of some of theij people. Mr. Banks., now knowing his diior^er, ppder* ed him to drink of cocoa-nut milki which soon riestored him to health, and to his natural cheerfulness. / On the ist of May, a chief, who had dined on boaii! a few days before, accompanied by some of his women, who used to feed him, came on board by himself; and | when dinner was on table, the Captain helped him t? some victuals, thinking upon this occasin he would condescend to feed himself; but he never attempted to eat j and had not One of thft servants fed him, he would certainly have gone without his dinner. Soon after they took tl»e astronomical quadrai;»t, wlili some Cipher instrument?, on shore j and next day having^ occasion to use the quadrant, to their great astonish! intnt and concern^ ii was missing. This was th« inore| n, Mr. Bank) CAPTAIN COOK. 29 ..ttraordlnary, as a sentinel had been posted the whole iight within a few yards of the tent in which it had been deposited ; and it had never been taken out of lie case in which it was packed. As the loss of this istrument would have rendered it impossible for them ) have made the necessary observation respecting the ransit, every possible search was made in the vicinity. It last Mr. Banks, accompanied by Mr. Green, and 5me other gentlemen, set out for the woods, where it jras thought some intelligence of the robbery lEight be lained, if it had been committed by the natives. In ae course of their journey they met I'ubora Tumaida, rith a few of the natives, who was made by signs to iderstand, that some of his countrymen had stolen the ladraut, and that it must be produced. The chief, I enquiry, found that the fact was so ; and by his inter- jrence, the whole was recovered without any material ■ury, though it had been taken to pieces. [pn 1^ riday, the 5th, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, ith the Captain, set out in the pinnace, taking one Tootahah's people with them, to visit that chief. ley soon reached Eparre, the place where he dwelt, lidi was but a few miles to the west of the tents. [pon their arrival, they were immediately conducted him, whilst the natives shouted round him, Taio 90tahah; " Tootahah is your friend." They found •n. sitting under a tree, and some old men standing and him. As soon as he had made signs for them to down, Captain Cook presented him with a shirt and )road cloth garment, with which he seemed greatly Jased ; and put the garment on. After eating a ?uthful together in the boat, they were conducted to large area, or court-yard, on one side of his house, lere an entertainment was provided for them, con- Iting of wrestling. The chief sat at the upper end the area, with several of his principal men on each ie of him, by way of judges, from whom the con- lerors received applause. Ten or twelve combatanta uered the area, and after many simple ceremonies of -illenging each other, they engaged, cjideavourin|; (q I I !i ii 1 ' 4 Ui. ' ', { 1 ! • 5Q VOYAGES OF throw one another by dint of strength ; then seizin? hold of each other by the thigh, the hand, the hair or the clothes, they grappled xvithoiit the least art, till one was thrown on his back : this conquest was applauded? by some words from the old men, and three huzzas. After this entertainment was at an end, they were inforiued, that some hogs, and a quantity of bread- fruit, were preparing for their dmner ; which Intel- ligence was the more agreeable, as their appetites were at this time excieedingly keen. But, instead of dining either on shore, or oh boar^ of the boat, they had the j^ mortification of going as fat as the ship, by the desire of the chief. As soon ^ the chief wa5 known to be on board the ship, the people brought plenty of bread- J fruit, cocoa- nuts, and other provisions to the for^ The forge being now set up, and frequently at' work, it became not only a new subject of admiratiot to the Indians, but afforded the Captain an additional opportunity of conferring obligations on them, by per- xnitting the smith, during his leisure hours, to convert the old iron, which they procured from \he Dolphin, into different kinds of tools. The natives, after repeated attempts, finding themj selves incapable of pronouncing the names of th English gentlemen, had recourse to new ones fornieii from their own language. Mr. Cook was named Toote ; Hinks, Hete; Gore, Toura; Solander, Tola^t no ; Banks, Opane; Green, TreetVe ; and so on for tht greatest part of the ship's crew. I'he following evening Mr. Banks was under the dis- agreeable necessity of reprimanding, in very stroB| terms, Tubora Tumaida, for having the insolence to snatch his gun from him, and firing it in the air ; ai action which surprised Mr. Banks greatly, as hi imagined him totally ignorant of the use of it : And i their safety depended on keeping them in that state] he told him, with threats, that his touching his piecil was the greatest of insults. The Indian made no ireplyj but set off with his family to his Jiouse at Eparre. h^ beii^g a useful man, Mr. Banks, accoippatii^d by M; m CAPTAIN COOK. 31 JoHntBUX, thought fit to go after him, and they found lim among a number of people, greatly dejected, .iowever, as Mr. Banks judiciously caused all animo- my to cease, they brought him back to supper ; after ^hich the chjef and his >vife both slept in Air. fianks*s tent. Soon after, Mr. Banks detected Tubora Tumaida in iaving stolen some nails. Mr. Banks having a good pinion of this chief, was willing to put his fidelity to \e test, and several temptations were thrown in his ay, among the rest a basket of nails, which proved resistible. He confessed the fact; and upon Mr. inks's insisting upon restitution, he declared the nails rere at Eparre : this occasioned high words, and at ^ngth the Indian produced one of them. He was to ive been forgiven upon restoring the rest, but not iving resolution to fulfil his engagement, he fled with I furniture and family before night. '-^^ |On the 27 th of May, Tootahah being removed to a Ice cajled Atahourou, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, iptain Cook, and some ot-hers, set out in the pinnace pay him another visit j and after making presents of few trifling articles, they were invited to stay the Ight. Mr. Banks having accepted a place in Oberea*8 inoe, left his companions, in order to retire to rest, fotwitiistanding the care Oberea took, of his clothes, Jr having them in her own custody, they were stolen, [ith hk pistols, po\yder-hoi;n, and many other things ]at wer« in his waistcoat pockets. 1 he alarm was fen to Tootahah, who slept in the next canoe, and JO went with Oberea in search of the thief; leaving Ir. Banks with only his breeches on, and his musket icharged. They soon returned, but without success ; id Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loss r the present. However, he went to the hut where 'apiain Cook and three of his associates lay, and he- rn to relate his melancholy tale ; but, instead of re- viving much comfort from them, he was told, that ley had shared the same fate, havis^ lost their stock- igs and jackets. i » 32 ,;, , VOYAGES or It was now time to make preparations for observing the transit of Venus ; and, from the hints which Cap- tain Cook had received from the Royal Society, he sent out two parties to make observations from dif- ferent spots, that in case they failed at Oraheite, they might succeed elsewhere : they employed themselves in preparing their instruments, and instructing such gentlemen with the use of them as were to go out. And on Thursday, the Ist of June, the next Saturday being the day of the transit, they sent the long-boat to Eimavo, having on board Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse, and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks; each fur- nished with necessary instruments by Mr. Green, Mr. Banks, and several of the Indians, went out with this party. Others were dispatched to find out a con- venient spot, at such a distance from their principal ] station as might suit their purpose. The party that went to Eimayo in the long-boat, after rowing best part of the night, bv the help of some Indians on board a canoe, which they hailed, found a proper situation for their observatory upon a rock, where they fixed their tents, and prepared the apparatus for the following day*s observation. On Saturday, the 3d, as soon as it was light, Mr. Banks left them to go to the island for fresh provisions. As he was trading with the natives who belonged to Tarrao, the king of the island, his majesty arrived with his sister, whose name was Nuna, in order to pay him a visit. After being seated as is customary, the royal present was brought, consisting of a hog, a dog, some cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, &c. A messenger was dispatched by Mr. Banks for an adze, a shirt, and some beads, which his majesty received with much pleasure. Mr, Banks returned to the observatory with his visitors^ and shewed them the transit of Venus over the Sun, informing them, that he and his companions had come from their own country solely to view it in that situation, ,,^i^ , .,., Both the parlies which were sent out, made their observation with great success. They nevenheless dif^ CAPTAIN COOK. |ece4 In the ^iccounts of the times of the contacts more ^han might have been imagined. Mr. Green's account fSLi as foljows. In the morning: the first external con* tact, or first appearance of Venus on the Sun, was line hours, twenty- five minutes, and four seconds. The first internal contact, or total immersion, was nine kours, forty-four minutes, and four seconds. In the ifternoon : the second internal contact, or beginning of immersion, was three hours, fourteen minur.s, and light seconds, llie second external contact, or total imersion, \vas three hours, thirty -two minutes, and l^n £^conds. ;" I ' itiiude of the Observatory, H® 15' 29", ; ; mgitude 149° 32' 30" W. of Greenwich. On the 19th^ in the efening, soon after dark, while \e canoes were detained by the Captain, Oberea, the ;eA, and sever^ of her attendants, paid the gentle« len a visit. $he came from lootahah^s palace in a }\xh}e canoe, and brought with her & hog, bread-fruit, other presents, among which was a dog. Dogs are teemed here more delicate eating than pork ; as lose 1?red to be eaten taste no animal food, but live itirely upon vegetables; aiid the experiment was fied. Tupia undertook to kill and dress one, which did.| by making a hole in the ground, and baking It was deemed a very good dish. Many of the natives visited the fort on the Slst, id brought various kinds of presents, and among the ^st, Oamo, a chief of several districts on the island, [horn they had never before seen, brought with him a )g. This chief was treated with great respect by the Uives, and was accompanied by a boy and a young loman. I'he boy was carried upon a man's back, Jough he was very able to walk. Oberea, and some iher of the Indians, went out of the fort to meet pern, their heads and bodies being first uncovered as fw as the waist, 'i his was coiisidered as a mark of re- ject : they had not noticed it before, but judged it was luailly ?hewn to person* of distinguished rank among }em, Oamo entered the tent ; but th« young woman. r' " ( 1 34. VOYAGES OP \vho was about sixteen, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him, though she seemed to combat with her curiosity and inclination. Dr. Solander took the youth by the hand, and conducted him in j but the natives without, who had prevented the girl's entrance, soon found means to get him out again. The curiosity of Mr. Banks, and the other gentlemen, being excited from these circumstances, they made enquiry who these strangers were, and were informed, thai Oamo \vas Oberea's husband, but that, by mutual consent, they had been for a considerable time separated ; and that the youth and girl were their offspring. The boy was named I'erridiri, and was heir apparent to the so- vereignty of the island; and he was to espouse hij sister as soon as he had attained the proper age. On Monday, June the 26th, early in the morning, the Captain set out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the island. Tney sailed to the eastward; and in the forenoon they went on shore, in a part of the island under the government of Ahio, a youne chief, who had often visited them at their tents. They also found here some other natives of their acquaintance. Having taken a survey of the harbour, and a large bay near which it is situated, they proposed going to the opposite side; but Titubaola, who was their conductor, not only refused to accom- pany them, but endeavoured to dissuade the Captain and Mr. Banks from going, saying, *' That country Was inhabited by people who were not subjects to Tootahah, and who would destroy them all.'* This in» formation did not, however, prevent the execution of their design ; and upon loading their pieces with ball, Titubaola took courage to go with them. They rowed till it was dark, when they reached a narrow neck of land that divided the islands into two peninsulas, which are distinct governments. As they were not yet got into the hostile part of the country, they agreed to spend the night on shore, where they were provided with supper and lodging by a lady, named Ooratooa. Oa (h^ following n^orning they pursued their passage CAPTAIN COOK. 35 for the other government. They ijinded in a district Uvhich was governed by a chief named Maraitta, t\\c Iburying-piace of men ; and his father was called Pa- [hairade, the stealer of boats, Notvyithstanding their names were so ominous, rhey gave the Captain and !\lr. Banks a very civil reception ; furnished them with provisions, and sold them a large hog for a hatchet. iThe curiosity of the natives was soon excited, and a ;rowd gathered round the English gentlemen, but' they law only two people whom they knew. . I'hey then idvanced till they reached the district which was under the dominion of the principal chief, or king, named iVVaheatua. Having continued their journey along the lore for a considerable way, they at last saw the chief, ind with him an agreeable young woman, about iwo- ind-twenty, named Toudidde. Towards the southernmost part of the island they mnd a good harbour, formed by a reef, and the cir- ^mjacent country remarkably fruitful. They landed cain a little farther to the east. Mathiabo, the chief, iSwth whom they had no acquaintance, nor had ever |een before, soon came to t^em, and supplied them ivith cocoa-nuts and breaci-iruit. They purchased, a log for a glass bottle, which he took in preference to jvtry other thing that was offered to him. They saw jcre a turkey-cock and a goose, which the Dolphin 'St on the island ; they were remarkably fat, and jemed to be greatly admired by the Indians. A very ►ncommon sight presented itself in a house near this >lace : several human j'w-bones were fastened to a ►oard of a semicircular form; they seemed fresh, and lad not lost any of their teeth. Kir Banks could ob- iiin no explanation of this mystery. They quitted this ►iace, and arrived in a bay on the north-west side. Several canoes came off here with some very beauti- ful women, who appeared to be desirous of their going m shore, to which they readily assented. They met vith a friendly reception from the chief, whose name Was VViverou, at whose house they supped, ii^ compariV ivjth Mathiabo. JPart of the house was all©itcd for T 1 1',>. 36 VOVAGES OP them to ilecp in ; and soon afte- supper they retired to rest. Mathiabo having obtained a cloak from Mr. Banks, under pretence of using it as a coverlet^ kmme> diately made otF with it, unperceived by that gentle- man or his companions. News, however, of the rob- bery was soon brought them by one of the natives ; in consequence of which intelligence they set out in pur- suit of the thief, but had proceeded a very little way, before they were met by a person bringing back the cloak, which Mathiabo had given up through fear. Th« house, upon their return, was entirely deserted ; and about four in the morning, the sentinel gave the alarm that the boat was missing. Their situation was* now extremely terrifying ; the party consisted of but four, with a single musket and two pocket pistols, without a spare ball, or a charge of powder. After remaining in this distressful state of anxiety for a considerable time, dreading the advantage the Indians would take of it, to their great joy, the boat, which had been driven away by the tide, returned ; and Mr. Banks and hh companions no sooner breakfasted, than they departed. They were now near the district narr.ed Paparra, which was governed by Oamo and Oberea, where they intended to spend the night. Mr. Banks and his com* pany landed about an hour before it was dark, and found that they were both set out to pay them a visit at the fort. They, nevertheless, slept at the house of Oberea, whic'i, though not large,, was very neat ; no inhabitant but her father was now in possession of it, who shewed them much civility. It has been observed, that Ccptain Cook did not hnd Oberea possessed of the same power as when the Dolphin was at this place, and they were now informed of ihe cause. It seems that about four or five months before Captain Cook's arrivr.l, the inhabitants of Tiar* rabou> the peninsula to the south-east, mpde a descent here, and slew many of the people ; i'.at hereupon Oberea, and Game, who then held the government for his son, had fled, and taken refuge in the moun-^i taint: and that the vict^s desirc^;ed all the houses, 1 I I I i 1 3 a i ;hey retired to lak from Mr. (verleti imme« y that gentle- r, of the rob- he natives ; in et out in pur- €ry little way, iging back th« ugh fear. The deserted ; an^ rave the alsnin at ion was- now d of but four, lols, without a if remaining in isiderable time, ould take of it, id been driven . Banks and his they departed, rr.ed Paparra, ea, where they s and his com* |was dark, and y them a visit at the house o( very neat ; no )ossession of it, jk did not hnd as when the now informed 1 or five months [itants of Tiar* ipde a descent liLat hereupon le government I in the moun-, In the houses, CAPTAIN COOK. 3? d pillaged the country. The turkey and goose, hich had been seen in the district of Mathiabo, were ong the booty ; and the jaw-bones, which were dis- vered there, had likewise been carried off as trophies victory. On Friday, the 30th, they arrived at Otahourou, here their old acquaintance Tootahah resided ; he re- ived them with great civility, and provided for them good supper, and a convenient lodging ; and, not- thstanding they were so shamefully plunder'^'d the t time they slept with this chief, they spent the ight with the utmost security, none of their clothes, any other article, being missing in the morning. On turday, July 1st, they returned to the fort at Port yal Harbour ; having discovered the island, both insulas included, to be about one hundred miles in cumference. iPreparations were now made for departing ; and Ctfotain Cook hoped to quit the island, without any fairer misunderstanding with the natives j but in this h#was mistaken. Two foreign sailors having been out, •ij^ of them was robbed of his knife, and striving to nteover it, the Indians attacked and wounded him in a din«^erous manner with a stone : his companion also re- vt'd a slight wound in the head. As Captain Cook uld have been unwilling to have taken farther notice the transaction, he was. not sorry the offenders had de thejr escape. ^ ;. nother affair, equally di»greeable, soon after hap-* ed. Between the 8th and yth in the evening, two ng marines retired secretly from the fort, and in morning were not to be met with. Notice having n given for ail the company to go on board the next , and that the ship would sail that day, or the day ling, Captain Cook began to fear that the marines nded to remain on shore. He was apprized that jfTectua! steps could be taken to recover them,with- risking the harmony and good fellowship which, ?t sent, subsisted between the Isingliih and the natives; D ' > 1/ r 'r I 3S VOYAGES OF and therefore resolved to wait a day, in hopes of their returning. I'he 10th, in the morning, the marines not being re. turned, an enquiry was made after them, when the Indians declared they did not propose returning, having taken refuge in the mountains, where it was impossible to discover them ; and that each had taken a wife, h consequence of which it was intimated to several chiefs, who were in the fort with their women, among .vhom were Tuix)ra Tumaida, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be sufifered to quit it till the deserters were f)roduced. They received the intimation with very fttie signs cither . of fear or discontent, assuring the Captain, that the marines should be sent back • but night coming on. Captain Cook judged it wis not pru- dent to let the hostages remain at the ^^r 4nd he therefore ordered them to be brought on l ja;*^. This gave an unusual alarm ; and several of them, especi- ally the females, testiHed their apprehensions witt great agitation of mind, and floods of tears, when thtj were coming on boarc. One of the ' larines was brought back in the evening by some of the Indians, who reported that the other and the two people who were sent to fetch them back would be detained till Tootahah, who was one of tlif confined, should be liberated. Mr. Hicks was imme diately dispatched, in the iong-boat, with several me,' to rescue the English prisoners ; at the same v ' Captain Cook told I'ootahah, that it was incumben him to assist them with some of his people, and to gw orders, in his name, that the men should be set at li berty^ for that he should expect him to answer for tb event. Tootahah immediately complied, and this parr recovered the men without any opposition. At the time the chiefs were set on shore from tl ship, those at the fort were also released ; and. afte remaining with Mr. Banks about an hour anc! . ha: they all returned to their respective places of res: Jv .ict When the desecters were examinedi it was discoverer •I 1 I hopes of their ;s not being re. hem, when the turning, having was impossible ^en a wife, h several chiets, , among whom berea, that ttiey 1 deserters were ition with very It, assuring the sent back ; but [ it Wis not pru- he ^^r and he on i. Jaiwk* A hi! if them, especi- prehensions wiit tears, when the) k in the evenir.; d that the other fetch them back was one of tin Jcks was imme rith several me? the same v ' ^as incumber ople, and to gi* ould be set at li ;o answer for tk id, and this part tion. n shore from tb ased ; and« afte hour and ^ hai aces of res!iiv .tc! t \vas discoveret CAPTAIN COOK. 5f hat thfi account which the Indians had given was no ivay fal«e : they had become fond of two females ; and Jt was their design to keep themselves concealed till the ship had set sail, and continue upon the island. '# A native, named I'upia, who had been prime mi*- Aister of Ober«a when sh^ was at the pinnacle of her uthority, and was also the principal priest of the land, and, therefore, intimately acquainted with the ^JigioR of the country, having often testified a desire ) go with them, on Wednesday the 12th, in the lorning, came on board, with a boy about twelve ears of age, his servant, named I'ayota, and finally iquejted the gentlemen to receive him. As it was iought he would be useful to them in many particu- rs, they unanimously agreed to comply with his re- lest. Tupia then went on shore, for the last time, to -^e his friends; and took with him several baubles to ||ve them, as parting tokens of remembrance. vf^On Thursday, the I3th of July, the ship was visited ij^ a multitude of the gentlemens' friends, and sur- ^npiunded by numberless canoes, which contained the (Inferior natives. They weighed anchor ab^ut twelve • ^nd the Indians took leave of the gentlemen on board, reeping in a fritndly and alFecting manner. Tupia •pported himself in this scene with a becoming forti- ide : tears flowed from his eyes, it is true ; but the Fort that he made to conceal them did him additional i^^nour. He went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, Jjrliere he continued waving his hand to the canoes as ig as they remained visible. With regard to these people, they are in general ra- ler ' a larger make than Europeans. The males are II, robust, and finely shaped. 1 he females, of the iperior class, are likewise generally above our com- lOn size J but those of the lower rank are rather below , and some of them are remarkably little. Their na- iral complexion is a fine clear olive, or what we call a irunette ; their skin is delicately smooth, and agreeably '^ft. The shape of their faces is in general handsome, d their eyes are full of sensibility and expression • D2 '^ v**'^ 40 VOYAGES OF their teeth are likewise remarkably white and regular, i and their breath entirely free from any disagreeabit | smell : their hair is^ for the most part> black. Theii motions are easy and graceful, but not vigorous ; theii deportment is generous and open, and their behaviou; aH'able and courteous. They stain their bodies, by in< j|ii( I j denting or pricking the flesh with a small instrument made of bone, cut into short teeth ; which indenture: they fill with a dark blue or blackish mixture, preparec from the smoke of an oily nut, burnt by them instea; of candles, and water : this operation, which is calJet by the natives tattaowing, is exceedingly painful, anc | . '^■- an indelible mark on the skin, it is usually per j fo» d when they are about ten or twelve years of age || and on different parts of the body. They clothe themselves in cloth and matting of vari ous kinds : the lirst they wear in fair, the latter in ve weather. They are in ditferent forms, no shape beini p preserved in them ; nor are the pieces sewed together n if The women of a superior class wear three or fou fi pieces; one, which is of considerable length, the fi j{ wrap several times round their waists, which falls dow: ' to the middle of the leg, Iwo or three other shor pieces, with a hole cut in the middle of each, ar placed on one another, and their heads coming throug ;he holes, the long ends hang before and behind, boi i ! sides being open, by which means they have the fr& use of their arms. v , v The mens* dress is very similar, differing only in on' instance, which is, that part of the garment, insteai ii Qi' falling below the knees, is brought between tIr-S j! legs. Ihis dress is worn by all ranks of people, th ,! only distinction being quantity in the superior class, i i' noon both sexes appear almost naked, wearing only th piecjB of cloth that is tied rouiul the waist. 1 h^ bo) and girls go quite naked: the first till they are seven ci eight years old, the latter till they are about hve. Their houses they seldom use but to sleep in, or to avoid ik rain, as they eat in the open air, under the shade ofi >ree, Their clothes serve them at night for coverinji ft; CAPTAIN COOK. 4t Jnd there are no divisions or apartments. The master Ind his wile repose in the middle ; then the married )eople ; next to these the unmarried females, and at a \a\\ distance the men who are unmarried. T 4.e chiefs generally eat alone, unless when visited |y a stranger, who is sometimes permitted to become •cond in their mess : leaves of trees being spread be- jre them, serve as a table-cloth ; and their atten- mts, who are numerous, having placed a basket jfore them, containing their provisions, and a cocoa- it shell of fresh and salt water, seat themselves round lem. They then begin by washing their mouth and inds, after which they eat a mouthful of bread-fruit id Hsh, dipt in salt water alternately, till the whole [consumed, taking a sup of salt water likewise be- reen almost every morsel. The bread-fruit and fish, king all eaten, they next have their plantains, or ap- ^8, which they never eat without being pared. Dur» this time a soft paste is prepared from the bread- It, which they sup out of a cocoa-nut shell ; this |shes the meal ; and the hands and mouth are again ished, as at the beginning. They devour vast quan* tes of food at a meal. Their personal cleanliness is an object that merits pe- liar attention. Both sexes never omit to wash with iter three times a day ; when they rise, at noon, and fore they go to rest. They also keep their clothes iremely clean ; so that in the largest communities no igreeable effluvia ever arises, nor is there any o.her )nvenience than heat. ^'he chief manufacture of Otaheite is cloth ; of this th there are three dilferent sorts, which are made ihe bark of as many diflferent trees, viz. the mul- ry, the bread-fruit, and a tree not very unlike the d fig-tree, which is found in some parts of the jst Indies. The mulberry-tree, which the Indians Aouta, produces the finest cloth, which is seldom |rn but by those of the first rank. The next sort, ich is worn by the lower class of people, is made of bread-fruit tree, and the coarsest of the tree re- -! ■ . m f ■ 1' ■'! I 11 "|(i ♦2 VOYAGES OP sembllng the fig-tree. This last sort, though mere u^e. ful than the two former, on account of its keeping out water, which neither of the others will, is exceedinglj scarce, being manufactured but in small quantities, The cloth becomes exceedingly white by bleaching, anc IS dyed of a red, yellow, brown, or black colour ; the first of which is exceedingly beautiful, and equal, i g not superior, to any in Europe. n! Their fishing-lines arc esteemed the best in ik ii ■world, made of the bark of the Erowa, a kind of net- ^ tie, which grows on the mountains : they are strong || enough to hold the heaviest and most vigorous fish, suet n ^s bonitas and albic6i'es : in short, they are- extremel t| ingenious in every expedient for taking all kinds c ^' fish. In The tools which these people make use of for build ti jng houses, constructing canoes, hewing stone, and fc vt felling, cleaving, carving, and polishing timber, con \^ sist of nothing more than an adze of stone, and a chi; la sel of bone, most commonly that of a man's arm ; am w for a file, or polisher, they make use ol a rasp of cc ral, and coral sand. Some of their smaller boats ar made of the bread-fruit tree, which is wrought wii t much difficulty, being of a light, 8ponr;y nature. The fcanoes are all shaped with the hand, the Indians ik being acquainted with the method of warping a planl Their language is soft and musical, abounding i vowels, and is easy to be pronounced. But whether is copious, Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander were not su ficiently acquainted with it to know. As very fev either of their nouns or verbs, are declinable, it mu. consequently be very imperfect. They found mean however, to be mutually understood without much dii ficqlty, The religion of these people appeared to be exceec jngly mysterious. They emphatically style the Sir preme 3eing, the Causer of Earthquakes ; but the; prayers are more generally addressed to l^ne, suf posed to be a son of the first progenitors of naturf They believe \n the exi^enee vf the sowl in a separat. m y are- extreme! m CAPTAIN COOK. 43 |te ; and that there are two situations, differing in i'lr degrees of happiness, which they consider as re- Kacles for different ranks, but not a place of reward punishment. They suppose that their chiefs, and Incipal people, will have the preference to those of lerior rank ; as they imagine their actions no way in- mce their future state, and that their deities take [cognizance of them whatsoever. The office of priest lereditary : there are several of them, and of all [ks : the chief is respected next to their kings ; and |y are superior to the rest of the natives, not only in It of divine knowledge, but also in that of naviga» and astronomy. h ^he 13th of July, after leaving the Island of Ota- [te, they sailed with a gentle breeze and clear wea- ; and were informed by Tupia, that foui' islands, [ch he called Huaheine, TJlietea, Otaha, and Cola» were at the distance of about one or two days and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, IPh liad lately been scarce, were to be got there in idance. They accordingly steered their course in Fch of these islands, and on the 15th discovered the id of Huaheine ; and next morning they sounded t.ie north-west part of the island, but found no torn with seventy fathoms. Several canoes immediately put off; but they ap- jred fearful of coming near the ship, till they saw Sia, who totally removed their apprehensions, and ventured to come along-side ; and upon assurances riendship, the King of Huaheine, and his queen. It •n board. Astonishment was testified by their [esties at every thing that was shewn to them ; yet y made no researches, and appeared satisfied with ft was presented to their observation, making no ^uiry after any other objects, though it was reason- B to suppose, that a building of such novelty and |ent as thp ship, must have afforded many curiosities, king, whose name was Oree, made a proposal to lange n^mes with Captain Cook, which was rea* assented \o. This custom is ver^ prevalent in this ^ M ! ' M 44 VOYAGES OP island, and is considened as a m^rk of friendship. The found the people here nearly similar to those of Oi; heite in almost every circumstance, except, if Tup; jpay be credited, they werp not addicted to thieving, Having come to an anchor, in a small but fine ha.' bour on the wrest side of the island, Captain Cook wei ashore, accompanied by Mr. Banks, and some othij gentlemen, with Tupia and the king. The instat. they landed, Tupia uncovered himself as low as t , waist, and desired Mr. Monkhouse to follow his ei, ample. Being seated, he now begun a speech, vvhici lasted about twenty minutes; the king, who stood of^ posite to him, answering in what seemed to be set rt plies. During this discourse he delivered, at difierett times, a handkerchief, a black silk neckcloth, sm,\ beads and plantains, as presents to their Eatua, or deiti| He received in return for the Eatua, of the Englislj a hog, some young plantains, and two bunches [{Qf. feathers, which were carried on board. These cert 1 monies were considered as a kind of ratification of|^| treaty between the English and the King of Huahein!t<|| Wednesday the 19th, they went ashore, and carrie|Q| 8ome hatchets with them, with which they procurem^ three very large hogs. As they proposed to sail in tt afternoon, the king, accompanied by some others (j the natives, came on board to take his leave, when r/ majesty received from Captain Cook a small piewtei plate, with the following inscription : " His Britanr . Majesty's ship Endeavour, Lieutenant Cook, tonii mander, J 6th July, 1769." He also was presente with some medals, or counters, resembling the coin England, and a few other trifles. From Huaheine they sailed for the island of Ulieteii^ and in the afternoon came within a league or twoc| the shore. T hey anchored in a bay, which is forme;' by a reef, on the north side of the island. Two ca^ noes of natives soon came off from the shore, and brought with them two small hogs, which thpy ^i{ changed for some nails and b^ads. On th^ iJOth, Mr^ Banks> the C'aptain^ an4 others, w^nt on shore^ ac| CAPTAIN' COOK. 45 jpanied by Tupia, who introduced them with the U kind of ceremonies that had taken place on their ling at Huaheine; after which, Captain Cook took (cssion of this and the adjacent islands, in the name the King of Great Britain. Dn the 24.th they got under sail, and steered to the [hward within the reef, towards an opening of five or leagues distant. In efl'ecting this, they were in th^ ftest danger of striking on a^ rock ; the man who ided crying out on a sudden, two fathoms, at which were much alarmed, but happily got clear with- [receiving any damage. )n the ^9th they sailed to the northward ; and in ifternoon finding themselves to windward of some )urs that lay oji the west side of Ulietea, they in- led to put into one of them, in order to stop a which they had sprung in the powder-room, and Le in soine additional ballast. t > >. the 2d of August they anchored in twenty -eight IS water, in a convenient harbour. In the in- many of the natives came off, and brought hogs, and plantains, which were purchased upon very irate terms. the 3d they saw a company of dancers, consist- lof some of the principal females of the island, advan'^ed side-ways, keeping time, vith great (tness, to the drums, which beat quick and loud : after, they began to shake themselves in a very isical manner, and put their bodies into a variety range postures ; sometimes standing in a row one id another ; sometimes sitting down ; and at others jig with their faces to the ground, and resting on knees and elbows ; moving their fingers at the time with a quickness scarcely to be credited, chief dexterity, however, of these dancers, as as the amusement of the spectators, consisted in isciviousness of their attitudes and gestures, which jncy forbids us to describe. fn the 5th, some bogs and fowls, and several large 's of cloth, many of them being fifty or sixty jll i Ik k 1 , i ' i 1 ! 1 1 i 1 ^ 1 ! i it \ I iM ; F iiif 1 i 1 : , Mm: ' 1 '.1^1 ■Si'.ui Mi ' Ij i 1 t i ( 1 » 1 ■ il! :] i! 1 1 1 1 1 i ' 1 ^ i If I •i [ 1 1 I 1 t! I 1 j J 'f ' '! tjl i if 1 ■ i J If i 1 1 I 1 > 1 r 1 1 1 4(3 VOYAGES OF yards in length, together with a quantity of plantai and cocoa-nuts, were sent to Captain Cook as a prj sent, from the Earee Uahie of a neighbouring isla;, called Bulaboiay accompanied with a message, that was then on the island, and intended waiting on t Captain the next day. l|| i'hey had now plenty of hogs on board ; but as tkp^ animals could not be brought to eat any sort of Eurjl pean grain, or any provender whatever that the st^pi afforded, they were reduced to the disagreeable necf , sity of killing them immediately on their leaving thotJ| islands $ and the fowls all died of a disorder in ttif' head, with which they were seized soon after ih; ^'' re brought on board. As they were detained longer at Ulietea in repa% ing the ship than they expected, they didnotgofli shore at Boiabola ; but after giving the general nar of the Society Islands to the whole group, they pibj sued their course, standing southwardly for an isiarcai to which they were directed by Tupia, at abovtab hundred leagues distance, which they discovered ontwi 13th, and were informed by him that it was caiti|( Ohiteroa. WJ The next morning they stood in for land. W[l they came near the shore, they could perceive ti the inhabitants were armed with lances of a consid' able length. The appearance of the boat soon di^ together a great number of them upon the beach, of whom leaped into the water, and endeavoured| gain the boat, but she soon left them behind ; sevr otners made the same atteript, but with as little cess. The boat having d jubled the point where til intended to land, rowed towards the shore, and be{| to make preparations for landing ; upon which a caiKf with some of the natives on board, came off towaj them. I'hey ordered I'upia to acquaint these peopj that they did not intend doing them any injury, wanted to traffic with them with nails, which tli shewed them : this information encouraged themj| come along-side the boat, and they accepted of sor CAPTAIN COOK. 47 -, which were given them, with much apparent [sure and satisfaction. In a few minutes, however, [rai of them unexpectedly boarded the boat, with ittntion of dragging her on shore : some muskets » immediately discharged over their heads, which the desired effect, all of them leaping directly into [sea, and put back to the shore as fast as they could lie. The Captain gave up all hopes of establishing ;ndly intercourse with these people, and returned je ship. In the 15th, they sailed to the southward : and on B5th, they celebrated the anniversary of their leav- jEngland, from whence they had been absent one ^: a large Cheshire cheese, which had been care- preserved for that purpose, was brought out, aud rrel of porter tapped, which proved to be as goud ly they had ever drank in England, the 7th of October they discovered land at west >rth ; and in the afternoon of the next day they to an anchor opposite the mouth of a little river^ a mile and a half from the shore. The Captain^ Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and some other gen- sn, accompanied by a party of marines, went on in the evening, and proceeded to a few small i& which they saw at a little distance. Taking the Entage of their absence from the boat, some of the res, who had concealed themselves behind the les, suddenly rushed out, and ran towards it, bran- Ing the long wooden lances which they had in their Is in a threatening manner. The cockswain fired a \etoon over their heads, which did not seem to in* late them : he then fired a second time over their Is, but with no effect ; alarmed at the situation of )oat, as the'y were now got near enough to dis- te their lances at it, the cockswain levelled his at them, and shot one man dead on the spot. :k with astonishment at the fall of their companion, retreated to the woods with the utmost precipita- The report of the gun sooa brought the advanced 'i;k ■! ih I'M 'Mm At VOYAGES OF party back, and they immediately returaed tO; •hip. After this Captain Cook continued his course ron the head of the bay. He was still in hopes of gett, some of the Indians on board, and by presents, adr to civil usage, convey through them a favourable o nion of the English to their fellow countrymen, ; thereby settle a good correspondence with them, bf after, an event occurred, though attended with d greeable circumstances, that promised to facilitate ! design. Two canoes appeared making towards h and Captain Cook proposed intercepting them w his boats. One of them got clear off; but the Indi in the other, finding It impossible to escape the h began to attack them with their paddles : this cc palled the Endeavour's people to fire upon them, w Jfour of the Indians were kilied ; and the other thr who were youths, jumped into the water, and endi voured to swim to shore : they were, however, tat up, and brought on board. 1 hey wer t first grci terrified, thinking they should be ki ^ but Tu[ by repeated assurances of friendship, reipoved tt fears, and they afterwards eat very heartily of ship's provisions. When they retired to rest, in evening, they appeared perfectly easy in their mk and slept very quietly. The next morning they t, tified much satisfaction, when told they were going be released. They informed Captain Cook, that ik was a particular kind of deer upon the island, likew^ taro, capes, romara, yams, a kind of long pepp bald coots, and black-birds. On the J 2th several Indians came off in a cam they were disfigured in a strange manner ; danced i sung, and appeared at times to be peaceably inclini at others co menace hostilities ; but, notwithstand: Tupia strongly invited them to come on board, none them would quit the canoe. Whilst the Endeavt was getting clear of the shambles, five canoes fui Indians came off, and seemed to threaten the peaj •n boards by brandishing their lancesj and other host d of long pepp CAPTAIN COOK. 49 jcstures : a four-pounder, loaded with grape-shot, was ibert fore ordered to be fired, but not pointed at them. ^his had the desired eflfect, and made them drop item. On the following day, Sunday the 15th, in the after- )on, a large canoe, with a number of armed Indians, ime up, qnd one of them, who was rem.arkably cloih- with a black skin, found means to defraud the Cap- lin of a piece of red baize, under the pretence of irtering the skin he had on for it. As soon as he had >t the baize into his possession, instead of giving the Lin in return, agreeable to his bargain, he rolled them together, and ordered the canoe to put off from the ^ip, turning a deaf ear to the repeated remonstrances the Captain against his unjust behaviour. After a )rt time this canoe, together with the fishing-boats lich had put o(f at the same time, came back to the >, and trade was begun again. During this second ~ic with the Indians, one of them unexpectedly ted Tupia's little boy, Tayota, and pulling him into (canoe, instantly put her off, and paddled away with utmost speed. Several muskets were immediately :harged at the people in the canoe, nnd one of them jiving a wound, they all let go the boy, who before held down in the bottom of the canoe. Tayota iing advantage of their consternation, immediately iped into the sea, and swam back to the Endeavour. kousequence of thjs attempt to carry oflf Tayota, ►tain Cook called the cape olf which it happened. Kidnappers. hey now passed a small island, white and high, )osed to be inhabited only by fishermen, as it ap- red quite barren, and was named Bare Island; and the 17th, Captain Cook gave the name of Cape «^/^«27i to a head-land. • ^ "hursday, the 19th, the Endeavour passed a rc- fkable head-land, which Captain Cook named Ga^ ^£nd Foreland. Here three cances came up, and Indian came on board; he received some small lenis, and retired to his companions, lie wore ^ £ !'"lii!i m I I i t ^'0 VOYAGES OF new garment of white silky flax, with a bordei of black, red, and white. October the 29th, they fell in with a small island, about a mile distant from the north-east point of the main ; and this being the most eastern part of it^ the Captain named it East Cape; and the island, East Island: it was but small, and appeared barren. Next morning, about nine, several canoes came off froni shore, with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hostile intentions. Before these had reached the ship, another canoe, larger than any that ha'^' yet beea seen, full of armed Indians, came off; and made to. wards the Endeavour with great expedition. The Captain now judging it expedient to prevent, if pos- sible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads : this not producing the desired effect, j another gun rvas fired with ball, which threw then i into such consternation, that they immediately returned j much faster than thty came. Next morning, at day. j break, they saw between forty and fifty canoes alonj g shore, many of which came off in the manner they ha{ j done the day before, shouting, and menacing an ai | lack. One of their chiefs, in the largest of their ca i noes, made several harangues, and by the menacin: % nourishing of his pike, seemed to bid the ship defianw but the gt;ntlemen continuing to invite them to tradi they at last came along-side ; and the chief who li: been declaiming, after uttering a sentence, took i a stone, and threw it against the side of the ship, vvhii appeared to be a declaration of hostilities, as they ii siantly seized their arms. One of them took sen linen that was hanging to dry, and made off with A musket was fired over his head to make him retur but this did not prevail; and even after another v fired at him with small shot, which hit him in the ba- he still pi-rsevered in his design. Upon this the resi the Indians set up their song of deliance. 1 hey i] not, however, make any preparations for attacking ' ship; but the Captain judged, that if he suffered ii;t| to go off without convincing them of his powtri h a bordci of , a stnaU island, ast point of the part of it, the tie island, Easi barren. Next came off from vbo appeared to had reached the lat ha^ yet been F, and made to- tpedition. The prevent, if pes- I jTun to be fired he'desired effect, hich threw then ediately returnd rnorning, at day. fifty canoes alon; ,< manner tbey hai menacing an at -oest of their ci "by the menacb the ship defianct ite them to tradi the chief who h- sentence, took i of the ship, whK lihties, as they ii them took son mac'e off with ' make hur. retun after another v It him in the bai' pon this tlie rest ^liance. '1 hey c [ns lor attacking I if he suffered ib rt of his power CAPTAIN COOK. 51 venging the insult, it might give an unfavourable inion of the English to the natives on shore. He cordingly fired a tging their stations, and paddling round her. These ens kept the crew upon the watch in the rain ; 1st Tupia, at the request of the Captain, used jry dissuasive argument he could suggest to prevent *r carrying their apparent designs into execution ; his expostulations did not pacify them, till some kets were fired : they then laid aside their hostile ntions, and began *q trade. They sold two of their pons vvithout fraud j but a third, for which they received cloth, they would not deliver up ; and, ad of paying any attention to the demand that made of it, they only laughed at them, and turned expostulations into ridicule, the Captain proposed to stay some days at this , that he might observe the transit of Mercury, dged it expedient to chastise these people for their lence and knavery ; accordingly, some small shot fired upon the principal offender, and a musket- went through his canoe. His companions left to his fate, without taking the least notice of him, tgh he was wounded j and continued to trade with- E2 1 li ■! ill' ! P?i \p.l 'I 5f VOYAGES OF out any discomposure. They for some time traded very fairly ; but returning to their mal-practices, another canoe was fired upon, and struck: they soon after paddled away« whilst a round shot was fired over them. Early in the morning of the 9th, several canoes brought a prodigious quantity of mackerel, one sort of which was no way different from the mackerel caught on our coast. 1 hese canoes were succeeded by many others, equally well loaded with the same sort of fish; \ and the cargoes purchased were so great, that when j salted, they might be considered as a month's provision ] for the whole ship's company. ^ This being a very clear day, the astronomer, (Mr, j Green,) and the other gentlemen, landed to observt ^ the transit of Mercury ; and whilst the observation m { making, a large canoe, with various commodities a ] board, came along-side the ship ; and Mr. Gore, tin \ officer who nad tlien the command, being desirous c | t I! encouraging them to traffic, produced a piece of Otj heitean cloth, of more value than any they had yi seen, which was immediately seized by one of the h diars, who obstinately refused either ^o return it, ( j to give any thing in exchange : he paiJ dearly, hoii i ever, for his temfity, being shot dead on the spc The death of this young Indictn alarmed all the re:: they fied with great precipitancy ; and for the presei could not be induced to renew their traffic wiiht! English. But when the Indians on shore heard li particulars related by Tojava, who greaily condemn) the conduct of the deceased, they seemed to think : merited his fate. This alfair happened, as has been mentioned, wli the observation was making of the transit of Mercur when the weather was so favourable, that the m transit was viewed without a cloud mtervening. ^ w h; Green made the observation of the ingress, Capiain Cook was engaged in ascertainmg the tin by taking the sun's altitude. In consequence of rj me time traded ir mal-practices, jtruck : they soon lot was fired over ^ 1, several canoei kerel, one sort of ; mackerel caught iceeded by mnny same sort of fish; great, that when L month's provisioo astronomer, (Mr, landed to observi he observation m Hs commodities a nd Mr. Gore, tk , being desirous o id a piece of Uu any they had yt by one of the li ler .'0 return it, ( paid dearly, hon dead on the spo i armed all the Kt. nd for the preser [leir traffic wiiht: >n shore heard i; greaily condemn! seemed to think : I mentioned, wlit transit of Mercur ble, that the wIk mtervening. ^ the ingress, wb icertainmg the tm consequence of tl CAPTAIN COOK. 53 rvation having been made here, this bay v/as ca]kd xury Bay. ,aptain Cook sailed from this bay, after taking pos- jion of it in the name of the King of Great Britain, the 15th. A number of islands, of difl'erent sizes, eared toward the north-west, which were named cury Islands. The inhabitants, though numerous, 'e no plantations ; their canoes are very indifferently itructed, and are no way ornamented, 'n the 18th, in the morning, the Endeavour steered /een the main ant! an island, which seemed very ile, and as extensive as Ulietea. Many canoes, id with Indians, came along-side, and the Indians their war song : the Endeavour's people paying no attention, they threw a volley of stones, and paddled away ; but they presently returned, and wed their insults. However, upon a musket being ' at one of their boats, they made a precipitate re- ► in the evening they cast anchor, and early the morning they sailed up an inlet. The Endeavour [how in a bay called by the natives Ooahaouragee ; Captain Cook, with Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander, went in the boats to examine it, and they did not rn till next morning. At the "ntrance of a wood met with a tree ninety-eig. . '^et high from the nd to the first branch, quite straight, and nineteen in circumference j and they found still iarger trees le same kind as they advanced into the wood. The tain called this river Thames, being not uqlike our of that name. the 2.'?d they tided it down the river ; and on 24th they steered along the shore, between the Ids and the main, and in the evening anchored in •pen bay, in about fourteen fathoms water. Ht * caught a great number of fish of the scienne or m kind; from which the Captain named this m Bay. No inhabitants were visible ; but from fires perceived at night, the gentlemen conduced as inhabited, ' ' E3 V -;■•■■•' * -:-• .1' ii ■' 11 l,i i! i WM0 A i 'Mltji'! iiiiH !ii!' ^ 54 VOYAGES OP The 26th, Captain Cook continued his course slov along the shore to the north. l'hi« day two cann came up, and some of the Indians came on boanii %vhen they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canaJ soon after followed them, and coming up to the shi the people in them hailed the others, when they coi ferred together, and afterwards came along-side of t; ship. The Endeavour passed a, remarkable point of Ian which the Captain called Cape Bret, in honour of t; baronet of that name. Within a mile te the north-ej by north, is a curious rocky island; it is arched, a; has a pleasing elTect at a distance. 1 he natives callt; cape Montugogogo : It forms a bay to the west, whi contains many small islands ; and Captain Cook nam the point at t!he north-west Entrance, Point Pocoa 1 he inhabitants had the same itch for cheating as t others, One of the midshipmen was so nettled at bei; imposed upon, that he had recourse to a whimsical f pcdient by way of revenge ; taking a fishing-line,, threw the lead with so much dexterity, that the ho caught the Indian, who had imposed upon him, byt buttocks, when the line breaking, the hook remain; in his posteriors. On the '27 1 h, the Endeavour was among a numli of small islands, from which several canoes came c; but the Indians, from their frantic gestures, seen; disordered in their minds ; they threw their fish it the ship by handfuls, without demanding any thing way of barter Some other canoes also came up, v saluted the ship with stones. It was then judged ti: to bring them to reason ; and a musket, with sir. shot, being fired, a general terror was spread amont them, and they all made a very precipitate retre: Among the fish obtained from these canoes, were c velles in great plenty, and for this reason the Capi; called these islands by the same name. For ma; days the wind was so vtiy unfavourable, that the ves rather lost than gamed i^round. On the 29th theyj iajo a large b^^/j where they anchored on (he mi 1^ Pi d his course %\o\i t day two canoif s came on boarl Two larger cans- ling up lo the shi; , when they cc e aiong-side of t; ble point of Ian , in honour oft: ; le 10 the north-e; ; it is arched, a I'he natives call;; to the west, wh iptain Cook naiii :e, Point Pocod or cheating as t so nettled at be: I to a whimsical e : a fishing-line,, ;rity, that the ho d upon him, byi the hook remain; IS among a num^j canoes came o: :• gestures, seem- hrew their fish \i nding any thing also came up, v s then judged tr nusket, with sit. vas spread amon[ precipitate retre ; canoes, were c reason the Capt; name. For ma able, that the ves 1 the 29th thev ■ J V hored 0^ (he soui CAPTAINT COOK. 5B »5t side of several islands; after which the ship was frrminded by thirty-three large canoes, containing Jar three hundred Indians all armed. On Tuesday, December the 5th, in the morning, ;y weighed anchor, but were soon becalmed ; and a rong current setting towards the shore, tuey were ken in wiih such rapidity, that they expected every )ment to run upon the breakers, which appeared love water not more than a cable's length distance : y were so near the land, that Tupia, who was to- \y ignorant of the danger, held a conversation with Indians who were standing on the beach. They re happily relieved, however, from this alarming uation by a fresh breexe suddenly springing up from shore. On the 7th several canoes put off, and followed the deavour ; but a breeze arising. Captain (Jook did wait for them, 1 hey beat to windward four days, made but little way. On the lOih, the land ap- red low and barren, but was not destitute of inha- nts: the next morning they stood in with the land, ich forms a peninsula^ and which the Captain named uckle Point. On the 1 dth they came o(T the north- extremity of New Zealand, which the Captain led North Cape. Their situation varied but little the i^4tli, when ihey discovered land, which they ged to be the Islands of the Three Kings, though y did not resemble the description of them in Dal» pie's account. anuary 1, 1770, they tacked, and stood to the easN rd, and on the 3d they saw land again ; it was high flat, and trepded away to the south-east, beyond reach of the naked eye. It is remarkable, that the deavour was three weeks in making ten leagues to westward. On the 9th they saw a point remarkably high to the 8t-north-east ; the Captain named it ALbctross Point, X about two leagues distance from this point, to the >rih-east, they discovered a remarkable high moun- in, equal ia height to that of Teaeriffe^ the smnmili 1 li!', ! ! ( ii !!■ ! !•'■ 56 VOYAGES OF of which was covered with snow, and it was name^ Mount Egmont. This day some very heavy showen of rain fell, accompanied with thunder and lightning, The Captain proposed careening the ship here, am taking in wood and water ; and accordingly, on the! 15th sieered for an inlet, which he named Queen Clm^, lotte's Sound, On the (3th of February, in the morning, the En deavour being careened, sailed out of the bay, whicl the ship's company, from an abhorrence of the bniti' custom that prevails here of eating men, called Ca Tubal Ba7j. They steered eastward j and about si: o'clock in the evening they were greatly alarmed a;, their being carried, by the rapidity of the current, very close to one of the two islands which lie off Capf Koamaroo, at the entrance of the Sound. 1 he shif?J was in such imminent danger, that they expected everj * minute she would be dashed to pieces ; but letting g! an anchor, and veering one hundred and sixty fathomi of cable, she was brought up, when they were nci above two cables length from the rocks : in this situatioi they were obliged to wait for the ebl) of the tide| which was not till after midnight. At three o'clock lie at C the morning they weighed anchor, and a fine breeze springing up soon after, they were carried through tliy srait with great volocity. At the entrance of the sraiij on the north side, there is a sin a 11 island, which ws named Fmtry Island, On the 8th they were ofT Cape Palliser, when tbcj discovered that the land trended to the north-east to wards Cape Turnagain. On the 14th about sixty Ini dians, in four double canoes, came within a stone's casi of the ship, which they beheld with surprise. On te IDth they saw a ledge of rocks, and soon afterwarr another ledge, three leagues from the shore, which thei passed to the north during the night, and discovere. the others under their bow at day-break. Thus thej| had a narrow escape from destruction. By the 27th they had sailed round the whole countrv and determined to depart from the coast as soon ai id it was namel] y heavy showcn ier and lightning ; ship here, anil| ordingly, on thei nned Queen Clutr] norning, the En »f the bay, whid nee of the brut; nen, called Ca ; and about si reatiy alarmed a', f of the current, hich lie off Ca Jound. Ihe shi; >y expected everf es ; but letting gi; :ind sixty fathom 1 they were nc; i : in this situatio:' ebl) of the tidej it three o'clock r and a fine breezy irried through tli ance of the srai siand, which w alliser, when tbcj the north-east to th about sixty liii ithin a stone's caij surprise. On i\i d soon after warr shore, which the| t, and discovered reak. Thus thejj he whole countrj.^ coast as soon ai ^^ CAPTAIN COoK. 57 had taken in a stock of water. For this purpose L'aptain went on shore in the long-boat, and found tcellent watering-place, and a proper birth for the A council of the officers was now held, as to the ige they thould take to England j when it was re - fcd to return by the East-Indies, and with that view leer for the east coast of New Holland, and then the direction of that coast to the northward, resolution being taken, they sailed at day- break, larch 31, 1770, and taking their departure from istern point, which the had seen on the 5?Jd, they it Cape Farewell. , the »t)th of April a small land-bird perched on [igging, from which they concluded they were near [; but they found no ^^round with one hundred and Ity fathoms. At six o'clock in the morning of the they discovered land four oi five leagues distant ; iihermost part of which was called Point hicks, aphment to Mr. Hicks, the first T -tenant. At [they discovered another point of the same land, fin a round hillock, extremely like the Uam-Head \t entrance of Plymouth bound, lor which reason lin Co<)k gave it the same name. the i^7th they saw several Df the inhabitants walk [lone the shore, four of them carrying a canoe on shoulders ; but as they did not attempt coming off ship, the Captain took Messrs. Banks and Soian- land 'lupia, in the yawl, to that part of the shore [e the natives appeared^ near which four small »s laid close inland. The Indians sat on the rocks le yawl was within a qiiarter of a mile of the L and then ran away into the woods. The surf pg violently on the beach, prevented the hoat from »g' ley anchored opposite a village of about eight \ij and observed an old woman and three children out of a wood, laden with fuel for a fire ; all of , as well as the woman, were quire naked. 1 he /oman frequently looked at the ship with the ui- M'i \\ Hlli !!;i ii il f II ! i ,1 V.'.IM •■'iii 'Mr!! ' 'I ' f Mil ' ' iit, . . i I ■'mm mm 38 VOYAGES OF most indlflTcrence, and, as soon as she had made a(| they set about dressing their dinner with perfect ct poBure. Having formed a design of landing, they man^ the boats, and took 1 upia with them ; and they hai| sooner come near the shore, than two men advanc' as if to dispute their setting foot on land. The Cap' threw them beads, nails, and other trifles, which t; took up, and seemed to be delighted with. Heti made signs that he wanted water, and used every | sible means to convince them that no injury was inte<| ed. They now made signs to the boat's crew to \q on which they put the boat in ; but they had no so done so, than the two Indians came again to opn them. A musket was now fired between them, ooj report of which one of them dropt a bundle of laoj which he instantly snatched up again. One of tij then threw a stone at the boat, on which the Cap ordered a musket, loaded with small shot, to be m which wounding the eldest of them on the legs, hel tired with speed. The people in the boats now lanif imagining that the wound which this man had receij would put an end to the contest : in this, however,! were mistaken j for ' e immediately returned witj kind of shield, and advancing with great intrepiii they both discharged their lances at the boat's crewj did not wound any of them. Another fnusket wa$( fired at them ; on which they threw another lance, then took to their heels. The crew now went up tof huts, in one of which they found the children, whol secreted themselves behind some bark. Here theyl some pieces of cloth, ribbons, beads, and other thia and taking several of the lances, re-embarked inS boat. On Tuesday, May the 1st, the south point ofj bay was named Sutherland Point, one of the seat of the name of Sutherland, having died that day, been buried on shore. This day Messrs. Banks, Sol' der, the Captain, and a few other gentl^imen, went she had made a ! r with perfect ^ iding, they man m ; and they had two men advana 1 land. The Cap jr trifles, which i ited with. He I and used every] lo injury was inte boat's crew to t they had no so me again to oppl 3tween them, onl t a bundle of laoj gain. One of )n which the Cao lali shot, to be n on the legs, hej he boats now lan( lis man had receil in this, however,! tely returned witj ith great intrepiij the boat's crewJ »ther fnusket wasj w another lance, iv now went up ta he children, whol ark. Here theyl ds, and other thiif , re-embarked inl ; south point ofj , one of the scan ^ died that day, ^lessrs. Banks, Sof r gentl^imen, wcdi Put^ i. . 1 L !.'_ ribjr.?rfcrnRoe 1807. CAPTAIN COOK. 59 H and left more preseniL* in the huts, such as look- Jasses, combs, &c. but the former ones had not [taken away. ley sailed from Botany Bay, as Captain Cook had [d this place, on the (5th of May, 1770 ; and at ^ere ofl' a harbour which they called Port Jackson; the evening near a bay, to which they gave the of Broken Bay. On ihe 13th they saw the of many fires on a point of land, which was fore called Smoaky Cape, As they proceeded ^ard from Botany Bay, the land appeared high, ^ell covered with wood. Two days after the Cap- hscovered a high point of Jand, which he called \Byron. >eing found necessary to avoid the danger of some they shortened sail, and kept standing oflf from :Iock in the evening till near nine, with a fine and bright moon. They had got from fourteea renty-one fathoms water ; when suddenly they ^0 twelve, ten, and eight fathoms, in a few mi- , Every man was instantly ordered to^his station, ;y were ©n the point of anchoring, when, on a J, they had again deep water, so that they thought iger was at a»i end, ^(including they had sailed be tail of some shoais which they had seen in the \g. In less than hour, however, the water shal- at once from twenty to seventeen fathoms ; and soundings could be again taken, the ship struck a lock, and remained fixed, but from the mo- ren her from the beating of the surge. Every |s instantly on deck, with countenances fully ex- [e of the agitation of tlieir minds. As they knew Vere not near the shore, they concluded they had against a rock of coral, the points of which being and the surface so rough as to grind away what- rubbed against it, though with a gentle motion, id reason to dread the horror of their situation ! sails being taken in, and the boats hoisted out [mine the depth of water, they found that the jd been carried over a iedge ol the rock, and lay koilQ^ withia it. She beat so violently that the i itli::; CO VOYAGES or crew could scarcely keep on their legs. The i? now shone bright, by the light of which they couldj the sheathing boards float from the bottom ef the sel ; till at length the false keel followed, so thatd expected instant destruction. Their best chanc«| escaping seemed now to be by lightening her. T therefore instantly started the water in the hold, pumped it up. The decayed stores, oil-jars, caij ballast, six of their guns, and other things, were thn over -board, in order to get at the heavier articles; ; in this business they were employed till day-break, i ing all which time it was observed, that not an (, was sworn; so much were the minds of the sailors pressed with a sense of their danger. At day-light they saw land at eight leagues distat but not a single island between them and the main,; that the destruction of the greater part of them wj have been inevitable, had th3 ship gone to pieces.'^ happened, however, that the wind died away to 2 d? calm before noon. As they expected high wate: eleven o'clock, every thing was prepared to ir. ^ another effort to free the ship ; but the tide fe" sr i, i short of that in the night, that she did not hoai, eighteen inches, though they had thrown overbcf' near fifty tons weight j they now, therefore, rene" their toil, and threw overboard every thing that coulJ possibly spared. As the tide fell, the water poured il rapidly, that they could scarcely keep her free by[ constant working of two pumps. Their only hope I depended on the midnight tide, and preparations wl accordingly made for another elVorc to get the ship The ttde began to rise at five o'clock, wiien the likewise increased to such a degree, that three pu^ wfere kept going till nine o'cl6ck, at which timc| ship righted ; bur. so much water had been lidmittej the leak, that they expecied she would sink as sootj the water would bear her off the rock. Their situation was now deplorable beyond descj tion ; and the imagination niai^t pamt what would if the powers of language to describe. They knew i| when the fatal moment should arrive, all autho^**ty wd v CATTAIK COOK. il at an end. The boats were incapable of conveying [em all on shore ; and they dreaded a contest for the jference, as more shocking than the shipwreck itself; it it was considered, that those who might be left on lard, would eventually me'it with a milder fate than )se who, by gaining the ohore, would have no chance it to linger the remains of life among the rudest rages in the universe, and m a country where fire- IS would barely enable them to support a wretched uence. Lt twenty minutes after ten the siiip floated, md was ived into deep Water; when they were happy to find did not admit more water than she had done before ; as the leak had for a considerable time gained on pumps, there was now three feet nine inches water \\ie hold. By this time the men were so worn by jue of mind and body, that none of them could ip more than five or six minutes at a time, and then V themselves, quite spent, on the deck. 'I'he suc- ing man being fatigued in his turn, threw himself in the same manner, while the former jumped up, renewed his labour ; thus mutually struggling for till the following accident had like to have given I up a prey to absolute despair. . {tween the inside lining of the ship's bottom, and )utside planking, there is a space of about seven - or eighteen inches. The man who had hitherto the depth of water at the well, had taken it [rther than the ceiling ; but being now relieved by ;r person, who took the depth to the out.^-ide plank- ^t appeared by this mistake, that the leik had sJd- gained upon the pumps, the whole ('.ilference be- i the two p'ankings. 'J'his circumstriHce deprived Jiof all hopes, andl^scarce any one thought it worth to labour for the longer p'^eser-.ation of a life must so soon have a period. But the mistake )n discovered; and the joy arising from such un- ted good news, inspired the men with so much that before eight o'clock in the morning, they imped out considerably more water than they h»4 A- MU\> \-.', I . h M! €2 VOYAGES OF shipped. They now talked confidently of getting ifee ship into some harbour, and set heartily to work w'> gfet in their anchors ; one of which, and the cable of anotner, they lost. Having a good breeze from the sea, they got under sail at eleven o'clock, and stood for the land. As they could net discover the exact situation of the leak, they had no prospect of stopping it within-side of the vessel ; but the following expedient, which one of the midshipmen had formerly seen tried with success, was adopted. They took an old studding-sail, and hav- ing mixed a large quantity of oakum and wool, chop- ped small, it was stitched down in handfuls on the sail, as light as possible ; the dung of their sheep, and other filth, being cpread over it. Thus prepared, the sail was hauled under the ship by ropes, which kept it extended till it came under the leak, when the sucktion carried in the oakum and the wool from the surface of the sail. This experiment succeeded so well, that, instead of three pumps, the water was easily kept under with one. 1 They hitherto had no further view than to run the ship into a harbour, and build a vessel from her mate«| rials, in which they might reach the East Indies; but they now began to think of finding a proper place to repair her damage, and then to pursue their voyage on. its original plan. At six in the evening they anchored seven leagues from the shore ; and the next morning they passed two islands, which were v:alled Hope Islmuki In the afternoon the master was sent out^ v^^ith iwcl boats, to sound, and search for a harbour where thef ship might be repaired. They anchored at sun-set iit four fathoms, two miles from the shore. One of M mates being out in the pinnace, returned at nine o'clockl reporting, that he had found just such a harbour as waj wanted at the distance of two leagues. At six o'clocif the next morning they sailed, and soon anchored abouj a mile from the shore, when the Captain went out, anif found the channel very narrow ; but the harbour \va better adapted to their present purpose, than any placj they had seen in the whole course of their voyage. it blew very fresh this day and the f^iluwing Digli| CAPTAIN COOK. 63 they could not venture to run into the harbour, but re- mained at anchor during the two succeeding days. The wind continued fresh till the 17th, but they then resolved to push in for the harbour, and with some dif- ficulty moored the ship along-side of a beach. 1 he Captain ordered the smith's forge to be set up, and directed the armourer to prepare the necessary iron- work for the repair of the vessel. He likewise ordered out the officers' stores and water, in order to lighten the ship. Early in the morning of the 22d, the tide left the ship, and they proceeded to examine the leak, when they found that the rocks had cut through four planks [into rhe timbers, and that three other planks were da- [maged. In these breaches not a splinter was to be seen, [the whole being smooth, as if cut away by an instru- jjnent ; but the preservation of the vessel was owing to |a very singular circumstance. One of the holes was large enough to have sunk her, even with eight pumps :onstantly at work ; but this hole was, in a great mea- lure, stopped up by the fragment of the rock being left sticking in it. 1 hey likewise found some pieces of pakum, wool, &c. which had got between the timbers, ind stopped many parts of the leak, which had been jft open by the stone. Exclusive of the leak great da- lage was done to various pans of the ship's bottom. While the smiths and carpenters were thus engaged, )me of the crew were sent across the river to shoot igeons for the sick. 1 hese people found a stream of [esh water, discovered many Jndian houses, and had sight of a mouse-coloured animal, extremely swift, id about the size of a greyhound ISext day many the crew saw the animal above-mentioned, v/hich jas a kangaroo ; and cne of the seamen declared he id seen the devil, which he described in the follow- |g words: ** He was as large (says he) as a one gallon tg, and very like it ; he had horns and wings, yet he |tpt so slowly through the grass, that if 1 had not been ?artd, i might have touched him." it appeared lei wards, that this poor fellow had seen a bat, which F2 wm I. ' 64. VOYAGES OF 18 almost black, and as large as a partridge ; and his own apprehensions had furnished his devil with horns. Mr. Banks and a party made an excursion up a river, and saw several animals, one of which was judged to be a wolf. At night they made a fire, and took up their quarters on the banks of the river j but the night was rendered extremely disagreeable by the stings d mosquitoes. At break of day they set out in search of game, and saw four animals, two of which were chased by Mr. Banks's greyhound ; but they greatly outstripped him in speed. It was observed of this animal, that he leaped or bounded forward on two legs, instead of run- ning on four. 1 he ship being repaired, on* the 4th of August they put to sea, and at noon came to an anchor, when the Captain gave the name of Cape Bedford to the north- ernmost point of land in sight, and that of Endeavour River to the harbour which they had quitted. The provisions they obtained, while in this harbour, consisted of turtle, oysters of three different sorts, large cavelle, or scomber, large mullets, some flat fish, a great num- ber of small scrombri, and skate or ray-fish j purslain, wild beans, the tops of cocoas, and cabbage palms. Oi quadrupeds there are goats, wolves, and pole-cats; and a spotted animal o'' the viverra kind. Dogs are the only tanie animals. .«^ : During the six following days, they struggled inces- santly to sail safely past the shoals and breakers, byi which they were every way surrounded. After a con-| versation held among the officers, it was their concur-f rent opinion, that it would be best to leave the coast,|^ and stand out to sea j and in consequence of these sen- timents, they sailed on the i3ih of August, 1770, and] got in an open sea, after having been surrounded b)i dreadful shoals and rocks lor near three months, 'llm had now sailed above a thousand miles, durmg a:| which run they had been obliged to keep soundind wiihout the intermission of a single minute ; a cirtunij stance which, it is supposed, never happened to anjj siiip but the Endeavour. , ., CAPTAIN COOK. 65 Having anchored on the J 4th, they steered a west- erly course on the following day, to get sight of the land, that a passage between that land and New Guinea might not be missed, if there was any such passage. Ihey stood northward till midnight. When day-light came on, they saw a dreadful surf break at a vast height, within a mile of the ship, towards which the rolling waves carried her with great rapidity. ^i hus distressed, the boats were sent ahead to tow, and the head of the vessel was brought about, but not till she was within about one hundred yards of the rock, be- tween which and her there was nothing left but the chasm made by the last wave which had washed her side. In the moment they expected instant destruc- tion, a breeze, hardly discernible, aided the boats in getting the vessel in an oblique direction frdm the rock At this time a small opening was seen in the reef, and a young officer being ^ent to examine it, found that there was smooth water on the other side of the rocks. Animated by the hope of preserving life, they now attempted to pass the opening ; but this was im- possible ; for it having become high water in the inte- rim, the ebb tide rushed through it with amazing im- petuosity, carrying the ship to a considerable distance from the reef. When the ebb tide was spent, the tide of flood again drove the vessel very near the rocks ; so that their prospect of destruction was renewed, when they discovered another opening, and a light breeze springing up, they entered it, and were driven through it with a rapidity that prevented the ship from striking against either side of the channel. The name of Providential Channel was given to this opening. A high promontory on the main land, in sight, was de- nominated Cape freymouth ; and a bay near it, H^eymoutk Bay. On the 21st several islands were discovered, which were called York Isles, Jn the afternoon they anchored between some islands, and observed that the channel now began to grow wider. They observed two distant i|:.M; V ( I m X'' 'i t}6 VOYAGES OF points, between which no land could be seen ; so thai the hop* of having at length explored a passage into ihe- Indian Sea, began to animate every breast. The 24ihof August, 1770, the cable broke near the ring in the attempt to ";cigh the anchor j on which another anchor was dropped, which prevented the ship driving. Determined, however, not to lose the anchor, they recovered it the next morning. Weighing anchor on the 23th of August, they steered north-west; and in a few hours one of the boats which was ahead, made the signal for shoal water. I'he ship instantly brought to, with all her sails standing. It was now found that she had met with another narrow escape, as she was almost encompassed with shoals; i;nd was likewise so situated between them, that she must have struck be- fore the boat's crew had made the signal, if she had been half the length of a cable on either side. In the afternoon she made sail with the ebb tide, and got out of danger before sun-set. Ihe ship now held a course due north, barely with- in sight of land, nil the 3d of September; and as the water was just deep enough to navigate the vessel, many unsuccessful attempts were made to bring her near enough to get on shore : it was therefore determined to land in one of the boats, while the ship kept plying olfw and on. On this resolution, the Captain, accompanied v by Messrs. Banks and Solander, set out in the pinnace; but when they came within two hundred yards of the shore, the water was so shallow, that they were obliged' to leave the boat to the care of two of the sailors, and wade to land. They were no sooner clear of the water, than they saw several prints of human feet on the sand. They were now near a quarter of a mile from the pinnace, when thrbably, been wounded in the lequal conflict. As the ship was now clear of all the islands which had en laid down in such maps as were on board, they \de sail during the night, and were surprised the next urning at the sight of an island to the west south- est, which they flattered themselves was a new dis- overy. Before noon they had a sight of houses, groves f cocoa-nut trees, and large flock-j of sheep. In the veiing, when the ship had enteied the bay to which ey had been recommended by some Indians, an In- inn town was seen at a small distance, upon which a ck was hoisted on the fore-topmast-head. Presently fterwards three guns were fired, and Dutch colours ere hoisted in the town. The ship, however, held on r way, and came to an anchor at seven in the even- I'he colours being seen hoisted on the beach the xt morning, the Captain concluded that the Dutch d a settlement on the island ; he therefore dispatched e second lieutenant to mention what necessaries they ere m want of. On the following day, the Captain, attended by veral gentlemen, went on shore, to visit the ra}ah. hen they landed, they were chagrined to find that the ttle had been driven down to the beach. They, how- ver, went on to the town. They were invited to dine ith the rajah, but he did not partake of the enteriain- ent, as it was not customary here to sit down with eir guests. Their dinner consisted of pork and rice, try excellent of their kinds, served up in thirty-six ishes, and three earthen bowls, filled with a kind of oth, in which the pork had been boiled. The spoons ere formed of leaves, but were so small, that the nger of the guests would scarcely allow them patience use them. On the 20th, the Captain and Dr. Solander went ain on shore ; and while the latter proceeded to the wn in search of Lange, the agent, the Captain staid !(! ■'lit''- )'') ; '\ )V: mum m ^\ 68 VOYAGES OF on the beach, with a view to buy cattle. At this place was an old man, who had been distinguished by the name of prime minister, because he appeared to be invested with considerable authority ; and the Captain now presented him with a spying-g'ass,in order to make a friend of him. At present there was nothing brought for sale but a small buffaloe, for which five guineas were demanded. Though the Captain knew that this was double its value, yet he bid three guineas, as he was willing to begin dealing at any rate. I'he person who had it to sell, said he could not take money till the ra. jah had been informed what was offered ; on which ;i man was sent to him, who soon came back with a mes- sage, that five guineas would be the lowest price : this the Captain refused to give ; on which a second mes- senger was dispatched, who staying a long time. Cap. tain Cook was anxiously expecting his return, whe« he saw Dr. Solandtr coming towards the beach, escorted by more than a hundred persons, some of whom haa lances in their hands, and the rest were armed with muskets. When the doctor arrived at the marketing place, he informed the Captain, that Lange had intc r- preted to him a message from the rajah, the substance i)f which was, that the natives were averse to ail trailer with the English, because they would not give abovt; half the real worth of the thinas which were oMerev, for sale; and that all trading whatever should be prohibited | after that day. 'J'he English gentlemen had no doubt, but that thel supposed order of the rajah was a contrivance of Lange and his confederates, in the way of extortion ; andj while they were debating how they should act in this critical conjuncture, one of Lange's adherents began to drive away such of the natives as had brought palm- syrup and fowls to sell, and others who were now] bringing sheep and buffaloes to the market. Just at this juncture. Captain Cook happening to look at the old man, who had been distinguished by the name of prinie| minister, imagined that he saw in his features a disap- probation of ihc present proceedings ; and willing to im« CAPTAIN COOK. 69 )rove the advantage, he grasped the Indian's hand, ind gave him an old broad sword. This well-timed jrcsent produced all the good elTects that could be Msht'd ; the prime minister was enraptured at so ionourable a mark of distinction, and exerted himself nth such success, that the whole business was now Ipeedily accomplished. I'he natives, eager to supply- whatever was wanted, brought their cattle in for sale, ind the market was soon stocked. For the first two KiiTaloes, Captain Cook gave ten guineas ; but he Iterwards purchased them by way of exchange, giv- ing a musket for each ; and at this rate he might have )ought any number he thought proper. Thrre seems [o be no doubt that Lange had a profit out of the first two that were sold, and that his reas(m for having said ihat the natives would take nothing but gold for their bttle, was, that he might the more easily share in the )roduce. 'J'he Endeavour sailed from the Island of Savu on the 2 1 St of September, and bent her course westward. >n the i?8th they steered north-west the whole day, in )rder to get sight of the land of Java ; and on the 30tli the Captain received from most of the officers and sea- len, their respective journals of the voyage, respect- ling which he advised them to observe the most pro- Ifound secrecy : and he likewise possessed himself of the [log-book. On the night following there was a storm of [thunder and lightning, when the land of Java was seen to the eastward by the brightness of the lightning. Early in the morning of the 2d of October, they Iwere close in with the coast of Java, along which they now steered. As their faithful Indian friend, Tupia, jWas at this time extremely ill, the Captain dispatched a [boat to the shore to endeavour to bring them some re- freshing fruits, and likewise to procure grass for the buffaloes. In a few hours they obtained what they were sent for, and returned to the ship, whicli proceeded at a slow rate during the night. On the 3d, in the itiorn- in^t the Dutch packet-boat was ol)served sailing after the Endeavour. I'he master had brous^ht with h' y r-itj' m '!! i: |)':« IM 70 VOYAGES OF two books, in one of which he wrote down the Cap,! tain's name, and that of the vessel, to be sent to xM Governor and Council of the Indies ; and in the othetj book he requested that some of the gentlemen ool board would likewise write down the name of the vesJ sel, with that of the Captam, whence she came, and to| what port she was bound. Soon after the ship was obliged to come to an anchor,! for want of wind. A breeze, tiowever, springing upj she held on her way till the following morning, wheiil she was again obliged to be brought to an anchor, ow. ing to the rapidity of the current. This day, and thei next, they weighed anchor, and brought to severall times. On the 8th they were once more obliged to anchor near a Httle island, which was not laid down in any of their charts. It is one of those that bear the name of the Milles Isles ; and Messrs. Solander and Banks having landed upon it, collected a few plants, and shot a bat which was a yard long, being measured from the extreme points of the wings. Ihe ship now made but slow way till night, when the land breeze springing up, they sailed to the east south-east, and on the following day they came to an anchor in the road of{ Batavia. The Endeavour had no sooner anchored, than a ship I was observed with a broad pendant flying, from which a boat vi^as dispatched to demand the name of the vessel, with that of the commander. 'Jo these enquiries Cap* tain Cook gave such answers as he thought proper, and the officer who commanded the boat departed. This gentleman, and the crew that attended him, were so worn down by the unhealihiness of the cUmate, that they appeared but as the shadows of men j which the Captain deemed a sad presage of the havock which death would soon make among his crew ; yet at pre- sent there was not one invalid on board, except the Indian Tupia. The English tars, whose want of fore- sight, and defiance of danger, is notorious, seemed not to entertain th( least idea that even sickness would at- tack a set of men so hardened as thpy were by different CAPTAfW COOK. 71 liriiates; but, alas ! thcv had but very little idea of the Ital contigion which impregnates the air of Batavia. The officers and seamen concurring in opinion, that le ship could not safely put to sea again in her present )ndition, the Captain resolved to solicit permission to ;ave her down ; but as he had learnt that this must be )ne in writing, he drew up a petition, and had it jnslated into Dutch. On the 10th of October, 1770, ie Captain, and the rest of the gentlemen, went on lore, and applied to the only English gentleman then jsKlent at Batavia ; this gentleman, whose name was [.eith, received his countrymen in the politest man- ;r, and entertained them at dinner with great hospi- liiy. In the afternoon Captain Cook attended the gover- )r-general, who received him politely, and told him wait on the council the next morning, when his pe- Ition should be laid before them, and every ming he )licited would be readily granted. The next day Captain Cook waited on the gentle* jen of the council, who informed him, that all his re- lests should be complied with. In the interim, the iher gentlemen made a contract with the master of a ublic hotel, to furnish them and their friends with as mch tea, coffee, punch, and tobacco, as they might ive occasion for, and to keep them a separate table, sr nine shillings a day, English money ; they were (kewise to pay for every servant that attended them, Ifteen pence a day. It was soon discovered, that they id been vilelv imposed on; for these charges were )ove twice as much as would have been demanded at [private house. They appeared to live elegantly, but the same time were but ill supplied. The gentle- men having found fault with their fare, were afterwards i,>plied in a better manner : but Mr. Banks, not ap- Iroving the conduct of the master of the' hotel, hired Agings for himself, and his attendants, at the adjoining iouse, for which he agreed to pay five-and-forty shil- igs a month. 0' . ^ WW I '!U. & 72 VOYAGES OF Captain Cook now applied to several persons toad Tance him money sufficitnt to defray the expense repairing the ship; but not one could be found inti Avhole town who had the requisite sum in his possessio or, il he had, was willing to advance it ; he therefo made application to the governor, who issued his order that he should be supplied out of the treasury of J Dutch East India Company. 1 After a little more than a week spent at Batavia, t( ill effects of the climate began to be severely felt. Solander and Mr Banks were indisposed with fi ven Mr. Banks's two servants were exceedingly ill j t- Indian boy, Tayota, had an inflammation on his lunrij and Tupia was so bad, that his life was despaired^ '^l heir indisposition was attributed partly to the heat' climate, and partly to the swampy siiuaticni of the tov:| and the stench of e dirty canals with which it abcHin;- On the tnh of November died Mr. Monklioubc, i| surgeon, whose loss was the more severely felt, as Avas a man of skill in his profession, and fell a sacrirj to the pestiferous air of the country, at a time wJ his abilities were most wanted. J)e3th now advamf with hasiy strides among our adventurous countryirifi who were equally unable to resist his power, or slij his embraces. Several Malay servants were engagedl wait on thoj>e who were ill ; but these people werel exceeding remiss in their dutv, that it was no uncoi ^* mon thing for the sick man to leave his bed in search his attendant. Ihe Indian boy, I'ayota, paid the da of nature on the Dth of this month; and'^lupia, \m tender alfection for the youth can be equalled onlyf that of a parent for a favourite child, was so shocked! tiic loss, that it was evident he could not long sunf hinu r,y this time the ship's bottom having been carefJ surveyed, our eouniiymei> Inid ample reason tof grateful to thai rrovidence, by which they bad bd preserved during a passage of several hundred nij through the most dangerous seas on the lace ofi glul)e i for the sheathing in several places was torn fij CAPTAIN COOK. 73 vessel, the false keel was in a great measure gone, main keel was damaged in many parts, several of planks had received great injury, and a part of three them was thinner than the sole of a shoe. liVlessrs. Solander and Banks were now so worn down their disorders, that the physician, who attended 'm, recommended the country ajr as the only thing It could possibly restore them to the wishes of their ;nds. In consequence of this advice, they hired a intry house of the master of the hotel, who engaged [supply them with slaves, and to furnish their table ; as they had sufficiently experienced the worthless- [ss of these slaves, they bought two Malay women, 10 scon became excellent nurses, from that tenderness nature which does so much honour to the se\. While !se gentlemen were taking measures for the recove- |of their health, poor Tupia fell a victim to the rava- of his disorder, and to his grief for the deceased rota : they were both buried in the Island of Edam. L^aptain Cook was now taken ill ; and Mr. Sporing, a sailor who attended Messrs. Banks and Solander their country-house, were attacked with intermit- fevers ; but those two gentlemen grew something iter, though their recovery was very slow. Their jse was situated on the borders of a rivulet, which, Jcourse, assisted the circulation of the air, and it likewise open to the sea breeze. The ship being at length repaired, the sick people ig received on board her, and the greater part of water and stores taken in, she sailed from Onrust I the 8ih of December, and anchored in the road of lavia. On the 24tli Captain Cook took leave of I governor, and some other gentlemen, who had diS- juished themselves by the civilities they shewed him. lediately after he went on board, attended by |. Banks, and the other gentlemen who had hitherto iri the town, and they got under sail the next nng. arly in the morning of 27ih of December, 1770, [Endeavour left the road of Bat^via^ and, after seve- 1^' !!' I I !';>■ 1 74 VOYAGES OP ral delays, occasioned by the wind being contrary, j^e stood over for the shore of Java, on the 1st of January, 1771. As many of the ship's crew, who had btt; very ill while at Batavia, were now become much worse lljjj the vessel was brought to an anchor in the afternoon t^ S' the 5lh near Prince's Island, with a view to get soit' necessary refreshments, and likewise to take in won and water. Messrs. Solandcr and Banks went ashor: with the Captain ; and tlicv were no sooner landed than some of the natives conducted them to the kingr the island, with whom they endeavoured to make a bar gain for some turtle, but the price could not be agree: ^ on. As our adventurers had no doubt but that the: should purchase on their own terms the following dai they left the Indians, and proceeded in search of a pro- per place to till water, which was found. JSext day they purchased, at very moderate pricei as many turtle as they had occasion for, and the who* ship's company fed on this delicious fish. '1 he king u:,. at this time at a house situated in a rice field, whcr Mr, Banks wailed on him, and found him cooking ii own victuals. On the 1 2th, while the Captain was on shore, givipi orders to the people who were cutting wo«)d and fiilii. ■water, he was told, that one of the natives had stoli an axe. "^Jhe thief was unknown ; but the Capiaii resolving not to pive the way fcr future depn dations this kind, by taking no notice of the first oifence, t immediately applied to the king; and in consequend of this application, the axe was brought down to tii watering-place the next day. The Indian, who brou^r it back, said it was left at his house in the night j but was suspected that himself was the thief. After a .>I2! of ten days at at Princes Island, during which ll: purchased vegetables of vaiicais kinds, fowls, deer, as turtle, the anchor was weighed, and the vessel odi more put to sea. After a passage in whij h nothing remarkable occu! red, the ship wi*s biouglit to an anchor off the Cape Cood Hope, oa the lotuof March,- 177.1, The Ca| ng contrary, jlitj le 1st of January,J , who had bttv^ cme much vvorse| 1 the afternoon iew to gel son; to take m \\m' ianks went ashorsi no sooner landed em to the king ed to make a bar| lid not be agree j ibt but that the! the following dajj in search of a pio and. y moderate priceJ for, and the Nvhoi ish. 'ibe kingwJ a ru e field, whef id him cooking as on shore, givi ig wood and filliF| naiives had stolr but the Capiail re depr^ dalionsJ c first. olVftnce, Ind in consequtd ui!,ht down to ti d^ian, who broud In the night j but Ihief. After a >tj uring which \\i , fowls, deer, al id the vessel oDif Remarkable occui lor off the Cape 1771. ThttCai CAPTAIN COOK. 75 in repaired instantly lo the Governor, who said that |ch refreshments as the country supplied, should be Jeerfully granted him ; on which a house was hired for (e sick, who soon recovt red, and oa the I f th of April, [71, the anchor of the Kndeavour was weighed, and once more put to sea On Monday, May day, ;y came to an anchor off the Island of St. Helena; (d as they proposed to remain ihree days, Mr Banks jployed the interval in surveying every object that Is thought worthy of notice. |0n the 4th of May, the I'2ndeavour sailed from the id of St. Helena, together with the Portland man of ir, and several sail of Jndiamen. 'I'hey kept company tth the man of war and Ind'amen till the 10th. But iptain Cook, observmg that they were out- sailed by the other ships, and consequently imagining that le of them would reach England before him, mwe |nals to speak with the Portland; when the Captain that vessel came on board, and received from Cap- In Cook a letter to the Lords of the Admiralty, to- |ther with ^ box, in which were deposited the journals many of the officers, and the ship's log books, ')n the 2Jd th;2y loii sight of all the ships they sailed [company wi(th from 8t. Helena; and in the after- )n of the fame day, Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenanr, [d of a cotsumption, with which he had been afflict* during the whole voyage. No smgle occurrence rth recording happened from this time, till the ship he to an anchor in the Downs, which was on the Tiih [June following, after an absence of two yearsi;, nine iths, and fourteen days. , SECOND VOYAGE. )ur adventurous and persevering navigator did not enjoy rept-se. Government soon projected ano^ exped tiun to complete the discove»'y of the South- Hemisphere, which for ages had been conssdered, [some of the ablest geographers, as containing ano- Q 2 f:. :'rni I' !, ' I 'i I i«i!n I ll il 76 VOYAGES OP ther continent. 1 herefore, to ascertain this fact, i ships were fitted out, and, that nothing might be oiti ted, which could facilitate the enterprise, they wt furnished with every requisite which a li!)eral attent: to the health and comfort of the crews could devis These vessels were built on a particular constructic and were purchased of Captain Hammond, of Ijii The largest was named the Kesolution, of four hundrtl and sixty-two tons burthen, Captain James Cook, ccr. 1 mander ; the other was nan^ed the Adventure, of thrt hundred and sixty-six tons, Captain Tobias Furneayi who had been promoted from the rank of lieutenant, I The Resolution had one hundred and twelve perse: on board, ofScers included, and the Adventure eighti one. Mr. Forster and his son, both eminent naturalisr and Mr. Wales, now mathematical master of Chriiil Hospital, accompanied them. On the 13th of June, 1772, both the ships sailsj from Plymouth Sound j and, on the evening of the29i:^ anchored in Funchiale Road, in the Island of Madeinj At the Captain's a. id Mr. Forstei's landing, they we:^ received by a gentleman from the vice-consul, who coil ducted them to the house of Mr. X^oughnans, the niOi| considerable English merchant in the place. 1 his geil tleman not only obtained leave for Mr. Forster to searq the island for plants, but procured them every thing m wanted, and insisted on their accommodating then selves at his house during their stay. Having got on board a supply of water, wine, zi other nt.-cessaries, they left Madeira on the 1st of M gust, and steered southward. Captain Ccok now nial three puncheons of beer, of the inspissated juice malt. 'Ihe proportion was about ten of water to otj of juice. 1 hey stopped at i5t. Jago for a supply water on the 10th, and having completed this businesj and got on board a supply of retreshrpents, such ashofij £;oais, fowls, and fru't, ihty put to sea, and proceeGfl on their voyage. On the 9th, one of the carpenter's mates fell oveJ board> and was drowned. |ic was oyer the si^e, sif CAPTAIN COOK. 77 :g on one of the scuttles; whence, it was supposed, li.id ilillcn ; for he was not seea till the very instant sunk under tne ship's stem, when all endeavours to ivc liim were too late. 'J his loss was sensibly felt iring the voyage, as he was both a sober man, and a )d workman. lAt two in the afternoon, on the 29th, they made the ju of the Cape of Good Hope. I'hey iiad no sooner [chorcd in Tabte Bay, than they were visited by the )uin of ihc port and Mr. Brandt. This last gentle- m i)ioii^,ht off such things as i^^ald not fail of being :eptai)le to persons comm^^ from sea. The master at» jdant also visited them, riccording to custom, to take account of the ships; to enquire mto the health of crews ; and, in particular, if the smalUpox was board ; a thing they dread above all others at the fpe. It was the 18th of November before they had got ^dy to put to sea. During this stay the crews of both )s were served every day with fiesh beef or mutton, -baked bread, and as much greens as they could The ships were caulked and painted, and in every ct put m as good a condition as when they left ;iani \h. Forster, wli&se whole time was taken up in the [>ait ot natuial history and b(»,any, met with a ^d.sh genilrman, one Air. Sparrman, who had lad under D\. L nnaus. He, by Captain Cook's ieiH, embarked as an assistant to Mr. Forster, who his expences on board, and allowed him a yearly lend besides, [n the afternoon of the 22d they weighed, and on '-^5lh had abund see an island of ice which they were steering direct!; for, till they were less than a mile from it. It appeaie: to Ije about fifty ftet high, and half a mile in circu It was flat at the top, and its sides rose in a perpeiic, cular direction, against which the sea broke exceedini; high. On the 17th they saw many whales, one sea'^ pe; guins, and seme white birds. 'J hey found the skirts of t.;; loose ice to be more broken than usual ; and it extenc | ed some distance beyond the main field, insomuch th they sailed amongst it the most part of the day; a;, the high ice islands without were innumerable, weather was sensibly colder than the thermomeifl seemed to point out, insomuch that the whole crel complained. In order to enable them to support til the better, the sieeves of their jackets were lengthened with baize ; and a cap was made for each man of t;^ same stuff, together with canvass, which proved of grttl service to them. After proceeding some days through fields and islatl of ice, on the 29ih they came to a resolution, to r^ as far west as the meridian of Cape Circumc:)ion,p'? vided they met with no impediment, as ihe distdE:| was not more than eighty leagues, the wind fav( uraii and the sea seemed to be pretty clear. At (me oV they steered for an island of ice, thinking, if there \4 any loose ice round it, to take some on board, andcj vert it into fresh water. At four they brought to cl under the lee of the island, where iney did not | what they wanted, l)ut saw upon it eighty-six pengi; This piece of ice was about half a mile in circuit, one hundrt d feet high and upwards ; for they lay] some minutes with every sail becalmed under it. On the ^2d of January, 1773, the weather was! clear, that they might have seen land at fourteen ofl teen leagues distance. On the 5th, however, theyf much snow and sleet, \yhich, as usual, froie cnf riggmg as it fell ; so that every rope was covered the finest transparent ice. On the 9ih they brougt'il CAPTAIN COOK. 19 took up as much ice as yielded lifteen tons of good [\i water. The pieces taken up were hard, and Id as a rock ; some of them so large, that they were Led to break them with pickaxes, before they could Itakeu into ihe boats. )n the 8th of February, having lost sight of the Ad- iture, they suspected a separation had taken place, ^ugh they were at a loss to tell how it happened, [ptain Furneaux had been ordered by Captain Co(jk, case he was separated, to cruise three days in the ice where he last saw liim ; he, therefore, continued Iking short boards, and firing half-hour guns, till the in the afternoon, when the weather having cleared |, they could see several leagues round them, and ind that the Adventure was not within the limits of jir horizon. At this time they were about two or l-ee leagues to the eastward of the situation they ire in when they last saw her. Next day they saw thing of her, notwithstanding the weather was pretty 5ar, and Captain Cook had kept firing guns, and Irning false fires, all night. He therefore gave over )king for her, jnade sail, and steered S. E. with a ^sh gale, accompanied with a high sea. |0n the i7th, ^t nine in the morning, they bore down an island of ice, which they reached by noon. It IS full half a mile in circuit, and two hundred feet ;h at least i though very little loose ice about it. But liie they were considering whether or no they should |ist out boats to fake some up, a great quantity broke )m the island. Pf this detached part they made a ift to get on board about nine or ten tons before eight :lock, when they hoi§ted in the boats, and made sail the east, inclining to the south. On the 23d they tacked, and spent the night, which vfeedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, with sleet Id snuw, in making short boards. Surrounded on [erv side with danger, they wished for day-light. lis, when it came, served only to increase their ap- [thwnsions. by exhibiting io view those huge mcun . 1 ■ ' ••>...>•. ( ' ;il I iPii:*.^ iiliiii I, lilt 1' : ! Miii JJO VOYAGES or tains of ice which, in the night, they had passed w out seeing On the 7th of iviarch the weather became fair, ^M sky c eared up, ?.rd tr.e night was remarkably pleasr as well as the morning of tDe next day, which, iurt: brightness of the sky, the serenity and mildness oft; weather, gave place to none they had seen since i^ had left the Cape <>i' Good Hope, it was suth as little known iu this sea; and, to make it stil im' agreeable, they had not one island of ice m sight. On the iTth Captain Cook came to a resoiufiom quit the high southern latitudes, and to procttd !New Zealand, to look for the Adventure, and totr, fresh his people. On the 2(jih tfiey steered to, andt:' tered, Dusky B' "«^'T u, artic/es which w^re liv n f f"'":- ^^ ■■•" "'e Lke.na,), were the .nofvlab ''' f '""' ''^"^''^■" I tlie arternoun of the 21 , hi * '" *"» ^J-"- The surf ran so hi^h till ,h.^ "'"' " «^^' ""«-■ place, where they killed 'e ''iL?"''^ ^'"'y '^'"d in I purposes; tl,e%kin, wee i,',T '""''' '^"'^•i »g. the fat gave oil7or thet T^^ "'"' "'' ''"^ "'« O'lbert, and two tultT ,J \\^' ^ "^kersgill. tain,. Intl.eevenin, thevrf "''^'' ™^ °f "'^ f-ed that, inland, no.tin.fVa' "J^h'' ' " ''"^'^' =""1 I'^y' .'r ra,her ci,arn.s SC.?;7'm''''J"'"^'^ ■Jvinti five gee e lef> ...,» ''.6"'ul to behold. .« there was the g ea,«t^' '" •"'•"^'' '^^m out h- There is no dou It bu H ,''"" °^ f°"'^ «■"! hy. '« time, spread c "r he wh ',""' "'" ^''"^' 'answer the indention o/ 1,,. •'" '^''""'^V, "nd 'I'ey had hazy wea he- n T^ '"*"'• ^" 'he Vli-. Forsters, to txplleL i' ^ "''^"S'll and ih« , Af.er rowing about "w" I'l " '"" "'= ''^V be- ; •" con,mu,„cate wi h ,/e ^""^ T "' "' "-"^ I-- «"tlct for s,ips bou J ;„.'"'• ""'' '» ^ll"rd a hme in by. Ar.er makim "' '\°"^' ">^" '^e one k.hemselves on bro, t^l .'^^ ^^''^'^^y. ^nd re! F f'"- the ship a,,H r , , ^"^ ^"'^^ ''owl, ther Nnt kmds. *^ " '^'^y ■''« a number of bird, h'"g S»t the tenn anj » • ^ 'he urn they' ::l,!^'^ "."'^,^ "'-'«' "« f «'-d up the bav (or I f n' '""' ' ''«'" breeze. K of the 1 Uh of May The„ ^T'>^- '« 'i'*" '^•^ 'eavintr O^.^^ ,, •'^ ^l ^Jear ol the land. »»«•. iS»Ui.i Sre LI"? ^'^":i'■> h<^%l 'Jj 'li, ! 'i ,.,l,.;, I '«i 13:: I'f 'A, \m \''i ': 86 VOYAGES OF whkh remains all the year. On the 7th they anchorei in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms water. I'he two following days were employed in clearing a place on Motuara Island, for erecting tents for liijl! sick, the sail-makers, and coopers. On the 9th therj were visited hy three canoes with about sixteen of tij natives; and to indu(e them to bring lish, and othe:"=^ provisions, they gave them several things, with whir they seemed lug .ly pleased. One of the crew see,! something carefully wrapt up, had the curiosity to tl amine what it was ; and, to his great surprise, foun; it to be the head of a man lately killed. Tne nativei , were very apprehensive of its being forced from inem || and, as if sensible of their unnatural cannibalism, triii to conceal it, and to exculpate themselves from i\%M chartje. They frequently mentioned Tupia; and vvhe{ they told them he was dead, some of them seemed be verv much concerned, and, as well as they coul understind them, wanted lo kntnv whether he \v( killed, or if he died a natural death. Bv these queJ tions, they are the same tribe Captain Cook saw. li the afternoon they returned again with fish and feji roots, which th**y sold for nails and other trifles. On the I ith of May they felt two severe shocks an earthquake, but received no kind of damage. Oj the l7ih, tnt;v had the pleasure of seeing the llesohj tion o!T the mouth of the Sound. Such is the detail Captain Furneaux transactions during an absence fourteen weeks. Captain Cook knowini^ that scurvy-grass, celer and other vet^etabics, were to be found in Qjef| Charlotte's S )und, he gave orders that they should boiled, with wheat a:id portable brc/rh, every mornia for bi'eaki'ast j and wit!i pea^^e and broth lor din.ttiil knowing from experience, ttiat theoe vegetables, till dressed, are extremely !>eavhciHi la lemovi.ig all niaJ ner of scorbutic cumplainis. In the morningv of the :20th, he sent on slioreiij only ewe and ram remaining of those whicu ae brought from the Cape of Good H^^e, with au im«j , ... CAPTA7.V COOK" '"it and p|,B,ed wi,h\","ln 'f* ""*«<^ t" be 'ere rn . floun^hing ..a,.., and i^ ■' '•' '" "^ ^^'''^^ "tive., may prove of „rf., , . ^"*"''<^d >o by ,he 'uch ran- and .rouble l,rou„h^ ^"J ran, he had w„h so -'d dead ; or<..aMo„.d ^f V ■; :" P'""'' ""» "o.h ■me pohoMou, piant. "J |„, "f •^"Pf'sed, by earing ,"">'7 >v„h a breed of L'' ''"t^" «'' ""ck.ng ,h,^ ^e sincejhey arr.vea, bv \oZ ' ' ,^''' '"^ '*'« first 'ed w„h ,1.,.,,; and , '"."„,?, K ?'""' "ho red. "-a* not a Juile ihey de- [Jn Ihe mornmg of the '>4.h .1 jwMch were fourteen or fiT, ' "^^ "'^' ^ /aree canoe ^raed ,0 express so.ne concert?" '"^i'^*' ' ""^ 'he" f) shewed h,m some n, ,»! ^ P , ^"P'^'" C<,.,k loolT p'-'en, „,a„er o, Ttu^ ' l!"' P'^"'^^ there by\v 7 ""<|""bto, .heir see dnir"''- ;' ^u"^ ^•^'^-d .0 f' P'^sed with .i.e',, tt.^'e ' . v" "•'" *^^» o ?an to hoe the p=..i, "•■",''«?. "' his^wn atror^ I '"mips, carrotsand n ^'"■'"'"'' '"•* 'hewed |Z I;, 7" 'he pol:;: P nr^,'"^" -'"cl, ,0^'e™ h than any oiher art cle h. "'"'""= r«l use ,<> f '<> g've them an 'dla o -h ^ ^ '"'"^ ^' »vas |he natives belore.l^J, 'J' "'^^ "« -^W des.royed ^, .^^^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) &< {./ / r/. 1.0 I.I 11.25 ■^■2.8 lit Bii |22 I b£ 12.0 Mill ^1^ 7^ '^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WeST MA'N STREET (7)6) A72-4S03 4^ I M ^ iM:it! i'-''i .'1 •:iir j' m I *?! .1' fi': ■' !; liiiii; i 88 VOYAGES OF Early the next morning, some of the natives brjugl a large supply of fish. One of them desired Captaj Cook to give his son a white shirt, which he accoril ingly did. The l)oy was so fond of his new dress, tin he went all over the ship, presenting himself befa every one that came in his way. This freedom, use by him, offended Old Will, the ram goat, who gai him a butt with his horns, and knocked him backwan on the deck. Will would have repeated his blow, not some of the people come to the boy's assistant The misfortune, however, seemed to him irreparable The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appeari the cabin before his father, until brought in by Forster ; when he told a very lamentable story agaii Goury, the great dog, (for so they called all the qu drupeds that were on board ;) nor could he be reco ciiedy till the shirt was washed, and dried. About nine o'clock, a large double canoe, in whii| were twenty or thirty people, appeared in sight, natives on board seemed much alarmed, saying ty these were their enemies. Two of them, the one m a spear, and the other with a stone hatchet in his ban mounted th«; arm-chests on the poop, and there, ioj kind of bravado, bid those enemies defiance ; vii the others, who were on board, took to f heir can and went ashore, probably to secure the women; children. However, they came on board, and m very peaceable. A trade soon commenced bet\ ^the sailors and them. It was not possible to hinder i former from selling the clothes from off their backs i the merest trifles. This caused Captain Cook to miss the strangers sooner than he would have done. June the 4th, their royal master^s !>irth-day, th spent in festivity, having the company of Captain Fd neaux, and all his officers. Double allowance enabi the seamen to share in the general joy. On the 7ibj June, at four in the morning, the wind being dn able, they unmoored, and at seven weighed, and to sea, with the Adventure in company. CAPTAIN COOK. 99 Kothing material occurred liil tl»e 29th, when Cap- Cook WHS informed that the crew of the Adven-r was sickly, and this he found was bui too true. cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men re down m the scurvy and Dux. At this time hi) had only three men on the sick list, and only one lUtm attacked with the scurvy. Several mor^, re^er, begin to shew symptoms of it, and were put ^n the wort, marmalade of carrots, rob of lemons oranges, i; he sickly state of the Adventure's crew made it jssary to make their best way to Otahe'ie, where were sure ot findmg refrtstimenis : cQjisequently continued tl.eir course to the west ; and at six 3ck in the evening, land was seen from the mast- I, ht-ariPii west by south. Captain Cook called it ilfljul Island : the getting to a place where they Id pr(>cuit- retieshments was more an object at this than discoveiy. U day break, on the 15iih, they discovered land ft ahead, distant about two miles ; so that day-light iscd ihem of their dagger but just in time. This fed another of those low or half drowned islands, or (er a large coral shoal, of about twenty leagues ii^ lit. 'i'he next morning, at four, they made sail^ at day -break saw another of these low islands, :h obtained the name of Adxenture Island. M. de jgainv'lle very properly calls this cluster of low tflcvvvd isies, the Dangerous Archipelago. The )ttine$s of the sea sufficiently convinced them that were surrounded by them, and how necessary it to (, roc ted with the utmost caution, especially io mght. In the 15ih, at five o'clock in the morning, they Osnaburg Island, or Maitea, discovered by Cap* VVallis. Soon after they brought to, and waited |he Adventure to come up with them, to acquaint [tain Furneaux, that it Wcis his intention to put into la-piha Bay, in Otaheite, in order to get what re-* iments they could from that part of the i;liQdjt be» Hd l.-'.'i ,i.ii "I ! 90 VOYAGES OP fore they went down to Matavia. This done, \\ made sail, and at six in the evening saw the isis bearing west. As they approached the coast, a nutnh of the inhabitants came off in canoes from differ parts, bringing with them a little fish, a few cc nuts, and other fruits, which they exchanged for and beads. Most of them knew Captain Cook agaJ and m«.ay enquired for Mr. fianks, and others were with him before ; but not one isked for Tupia.! Next morning, being the 17>:h, they anchoredi Oaita-piha Hay, about two cables.- length from the ih both ships being by this time crowded with a number of the natives, who brought with them co nuts, plantains, bananas, apples, yams, and other which they exchanged for nails and beads. To 8e\ who called themselves chiefs, Captaia Cook made sents of shirts, axes, and several other articles ; and| return, they promised to bring hogs and fowls ; a mise they never did, nor ever intended, to perform! Many, who called themselves er.reet, or chiefs, ci( on board, partly with a view of getting presents, partly to pilfer whatever t^ me in their wny. Onel this sort of earees the Captain had most of the dajl the cabin, and made presents to him, and all his fries which were not a few. At length he was caught ing things which did not belong to him, and hanii thtm out at the quarter gallery. Many complainDl the like nature were made to him against th(.'se| deck, which occasioned his turning them all out of: ship. "^1 he cabin guest made good haste to be gn 'J he Captain was so much exasperated at his behavk that, after he had got some distance from the ship,! fired two muskets over his head, which made him the canoe, and take to the water. He then sent a I to take up the canoe ; and ordered a great gun, loa^ witn ball, to br fired along the coast, which made] the natives retire from the shore. A few hours they were all good friends again. Jt was not tilli evening of this day, that any one enquired after Tu|| kod ^hcn but two or three. A» soon as they It CAPTAIN COOK. 91 eiaie of hit death, they were quite satisfied ; in- ted, it did not appear to them that it would have iused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one, id his death been occasioned by any other means than sickness. Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till ie dusk of the evening, when one of the natives made with a musket belonging to the guard en shore. *aptain Cook was present when this happened, and int some of his people after him, which would have sen to little purpose, had not some of the natives, of icir own accord, pursued the thief. 'I'liey knocked im down, took from him the musket, and brought it ick. Fear, on this occasion, certainly operated more rith them han principle. They, howiever, deserve to be applauded for this act of justice In the evening, Captain Cook was informed that ^aheatoua was come into the neiglibourhood, and wanted to see him. In consequence of th s informa- ion, he determined to wait one day longer, in order have an interview with this prince. Accordingly, irly the next morning, he set out, in company with Daptain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and several of the Natives. They found htm seated on a stool, with a iircle of people round him. They knew each other at |rst sight, though they had not met since 1769. At lat time he was hut a boy, and went by the name of Tearee ; but upon the death of his father, Waheatoua, ke took upon him that name. After the Rrst salutation was over, having seated the Captain on the same stool with himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by them, he began to enquire jfier several by name, who were engaged in the ')rmer voyage. He next enquired how long they 'oukl stay ; and when he told him no longer than lext day, he seemed sorry ; asked the Captain to stay )me months, and at last came down to five days ; )romising in that time he should have hogs in a plenty. )ut as he had been here already a week, without 90 luch it getting one, he could not put any faith in this Ij ^ii mm M 09 VOYAGES OF promise. In return for ilie present he received, ordered a pretty good hog lo be carried to their boat. Before they got to an anchor, their decks wen crowded with the natives; many of whom Captaji Cook knew, and almost all of ihem knevv him. great crowd was assembled together upon tht- shorel amongst whom was Otoo, their kin^. I he CapuiJ >vas just going to pay him a vis.t, when he was toid ^vas maiaow'd, and gone to Opart e. He set out on the 2(5th for Oparee, accompanied bJ Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forster, and others. As soojl as they landed, they were conducted to Otoo, whoM they found seated on the ground, under the shade of J tree, with an immense crowd round him. AfurihJ first compliments were over, the Captain presentedl him with such articles as were supposed to be rr.uj valuable in his eyes, well knowing that it was his in.' terest to gain the friendship of this man. He also madcl presents to several of his attendants ; and, in retunJ they offered him cloti), which he relusta to acceptJ telling them that what he had given was fur tioyj (friendship.) The king enquired for iupia, and aill the gentlemen that were witn the Captain in his formetl voyage, by name. He promised that they should have! some hogs the next dav ; but he had much ado to ob* tain a promise from him to visit him on board He said he was, Mutaou no te paupoue ; that is, afraid of t;e| |;uns. He was about tniny years of age, six leet hii^h,! and a Bne, personabk-, vveJl made man. All his sub*| jecis appeared uncovered before him, his father notj excepted. What is me>4ni by uncovering, is the mak>l ing bare the head and shoulders, or wearing no sort A «:lothing ^bove the breast. On the I27th, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid them a vist. He fir^r sent into the ship a h\\%\ quantity of c oih, fruits, a hog, and tw*) lar^e h>n; and, after some persuasion, can»e on board him^eif, with his sister, a younger brottier, v-\nd several more attendants. Among other presents «. Ks;n)Kiied on mil tj occasion;. Captain Furneau;^ p;e^enad tiie king wiik CAPTAIN COOK. 03 fine goatSi inrnts he had brought him, and dressed his sister out Ithe best manner he could. When Otoo came into cabin, £reti, and some of his friends, were sitting (re. "^I'he moment they saw the king enter, they [ipped themselves in great haste, being covered be« e. Thi^ was all the respect they paid him ; for (v never rose from their seats, nor made any other usance. When the king thought proper to depart, was carried to Oparre in a boat ; when Captain )k entertained him, and his people, with the bag- )es, (of which music they were very fond,) and danc* by the seamen. He, in return, ordered some of people to dance also> which consisted chiefly of con* tions. [At ten o'clock the following evening, they were alarm- with the cry of murder, and a great noise on shore, (ar the bottom of the bay, at some distance from the icampment. Captain Cook suspected that it was oc- [sioned by some of his own people ; and immediately led a boat, and sent it ashore, which soon returned [ith three marines, and a seaman. Some other^ be- iging to the Adventure, were also taken, and being put under confinement, the next morning the Cap- ^in ordered them to be punished according to their de- ^rts. He did not find that any mischief was done, id the people would confess nothing. The natives, )wever, were s« much alarmed, that they fled from leir habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm >read many miles along the coast : for when Captain fOfk went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by appoint- iV!l ri fail:;' m 11' I '§$ VOYAGES OP menti he found him removed, or rather fled, mjy miles from the pince of his abode. Even there he <)bliged to wait some hours, before he could see him] all ; and when he did, he complained of the last nieln riot. As this x^as intended to be the last visit, Caii tain Cook had taken with him a present suitable toti .occasion. Among other things >yere three Cape she ^hich he had seen before, and asked for. He much pleased with them ; though h/e could be but litij benefited, as they were all wethers. The presents he i 9t this interview entirely removed his fears, and openei his heart so much, that he sent for three hogs, wbic be presented to them. They now took leave, and formed him they should quit the island the next d at which he seemed mtich alfected, and eiiibraced Captain several times. • On the 1st of September the ships unmoored. Son hours before they got under sail, a young man, wh name was Poreo, came, and desired the Captain woulj take him with him, to which he comeoted. Mao more offered themselves, but he, refused to take then lliis youth asked for ah axe and a spike-nail for 1 father, who was then on board. He had them accord ingly ; and they parted just as they were getting unde sail, more like two strangers than father and son. "fhi raised a doubt whether it was so ; which vtras farthe confirmed by ^ canoe, coming along-side, as they wer standing cut of the bay, and demanding the youn man in the name of Otoo. The artifice was now seei through ; it was merely to extort something from tbi Captain that Poreo had volunteered it. However, ht was given to understand, that unless he returned tiit axe and nails, he could not be dismissed. As thesi were on shore, he was carried away, pretty well Mlis- iied ; though a few tears fell whea he viewed the hoi astern. '.. • ' ' ' f As soon as they were clear of the bay, they directed their course for the Island of Huaheine, where thej{ intended to touch : on the morning of the 3d, the; anchored in tlie harbour of Owharre. ^ spon as |t)f rather fled, tnjj Even tHere he he could see himl ?d of the last mm the last visit, cJ esent suitable iptj B three Cape she sked for. He i/e could be but liij The presents he 1. lis fears, and opeog r three hogs, wliic took leave, and k sland the next daf| and eiiibraced s unmoored. Son young man, who the Captain woulj consented. Aiai used to take then a spike-nail fur I i had them accord were getting unde her and son. which was farthe side, as they wer nding the youn ce was now see |omething from ti it. However, 18 he returned (ai issed. As thestl pretty well mv\ viewed the laDdl CAPTAIN COOK. GS )s were in safety, Captain Cook landed w^ith Cap- r'urneaux, and was received by the natives with utirrast cordiality. Some presents were distributed long them ; and presently after, they brought down ?s, fowls, dogs, and fruits, which they willmgly ex- inged for hatchets, nails, and beads. The like trade Is soon opened on board the ship ; so that they had a prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh rk and fowls ; and, to people in their situation^ this ^s no unwelcome thing. Larly the next morning, Lieutenant Pick ersgill sailed th a cutter, on a trading party, toward the south of the isle. 1 his gentleman had seen Oberea iie they lay at Otaheite, who was now decrepid and )r. Captain Cook also sent another trading party on ^re near the ships, with which he went himself, to that it was properly conducted at the first setting [, a very necessary point to be attended to. In the 4th Captain Cook wanted to go to Oree, the |g, but was told he would come to him ; which he lordingly did, fell upon his neck, and embraced him. us was by no means ceremonious ; the tears, which ]klcd plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, suf- mtiy bespoke the language of his heait. His friends re also introduced to them, to whom they made tsetits. In return he gave them a hog, and a quan- of cloth, promising that all their wants should be jplied. Ill the 7 th, early in the morning, while the ships re unmooring. Captain Cook went to pay his fare- II visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux ' Mr. Forster. 'J'hcy took with them, for a present, Ih things as were not only valuable, but useful. He left \yith him the inscription plate he had before in (ping, and another small copper-plate, on which re engraved these words, •* Anchored here, his tannic Majesty's ships Resolution and Adventure, )tenil)er 1773 i*' together wiih some medals, all put lin a bag; of which the chief promised to take care, to pittduce to the first ship or ships that »hguid arrive i\ '■ ' 96 VOYAGES OF at the island. lie then gave a hcg ; and after the boat with fruit, they took leave ; when the old chief embraced the Captain with tears in his cm Before they quitted this island, Captain Furnei agreed to receive on board his ship a young man nan Omai, a native of Ulieta, where he had some propen of which he had been dispossessed by the people] fiolabola. Captain Cook wondered that Captain fJ neaux would encumber himself with this m^, who,] his opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhabitantii these happy islands, not having any advantage of bin or acquired rank, nor being eminent in shape, fit or complexion. The Captain, however, after his arnj in England, was convinced of his error ; and doub whether any other of the natives would have given i general satisfaction by his behaviour among t[ '* Omai, (observed Captain Cuok,) has - certaioly] very good understanding, quick parts, and honest pri| ciples i he is of good natural behaviour, which rendeii him acceptable to the best of company ; and a proJ degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the socii of persons of inferior rank. He has passions of same kind as other young men, but has judgn enough not to indulge them in any improper degree.! do not imagine that he has any dislike to liquor ; anil he had fallen into company where the person who dra the most, met with the most approbation, I havej doubt but that he would have endeavoured togaipi applause of those with whom he associated ; but, fij tunately for him, he perceived that drinking was va little in use but among inferior people ; and as he very watchful into the manners and conduct of the [ sons of rank who honoured him with cheir protectic he was sober and modest ; and 1 never heard tli during the whole time of his stay in England, >vliij was two years, he ever once disguised himself ivine, or ever shewed an inclination to go beyond i Strictest rules of moderation. " Soon after hit arrival in London, the Earl of Sa» wichf the first lord of the admiralty, introduced him^ ^e ; when the rror : and doul CAPTAIN COOK. 07 Majesty at Keur, when he met with a most gra* }0s reception, and imbibed the strongest impression of jty and gratitude to that great and amiable Prince, roichl am persuaded he will preserve to the latest mo- lent of his life. During his stay among us, he was iressed by many of the principal nobility, and did j)thing tu forfeit the esteem of any one of them ; but is principal patrons were the Earl of Sandwich, Mr. inks* and Dr. Solander } the former probably thought a duty of his office to protect and countenance an in- ibitant of that hospitable country, where the wants i(i distresses of those in his department had been alle- ittd and supplied in the most ample manner ; the |hers, as a testimony of their gratitude for the gene- is reception they had met with during their residence his country. It is to be observed, that though nai lived in the midst of amusements during his resi- (nee in England, his return to his native country was ^vays in his thoughts ; and though he was not impa- ct to go, he expressed a satisfaction as the time of return approached. Me embarked with me in the ^solution, when she was fitted out for another voy- ^e, loaded with presents from his several friends, and pi of gratitude for the kind reception and treatment had experienced among us." I On the 8th of September they anchored at Ulieta, id a trade soon commenced with the natives. Next )rning they paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of Is part of the isle, carrying with them the necessary jresentt. lie was seated in his own house, which )od near the water side, where he and his friends re- [ived them with great cordiality. He expressed much tisfaction at seeing Captain Cook again, and desired It they might exchange names, which he accordingly reed to. Ihis is the strongest mark of friendship iy can shew to a stranger. After they had made chief and his friends the necessary presents, they Int on board with a hog, and some fruit, received ^m him in return. On the l^th Captain Cook told that his Otaheiteaa young nan, Foreo, had imi. 'ill! 1 ! ; •^\ m ■I'i- . f8 VOYAGES OF taken a resolution to leave him, and was actuj eone ; having met with a young woman, for when] had contracted a friendship, he went away with: and he saw him no more. However, the Otaheiti youth*s leaving Captain Cook proved of no cudi quence, as many young men of this island volunta oifered to come away with them : he thought proper] take on board one, who was about seventeen eighteen years of age, named Oedidee, a native of labola, and a near relation of Opoony, chief of tq island. After leaving Ulietea on the 17th of Septemii they steered to the west, and on the 1st of Octob they saw Middleburg. As they approached the shoii two canoes came boldly alongside, and some of the g] fives entered the ship without hesitation. This mark] confidence gave Captain Cook a good opinion of tli islanders, and determined him to visit them if possili They found good anchorage, and came to intweoij five fathoms water. They had scarcely got to an ancb before they were surrounded by a great number of i noes full of people, who began a traffic. Among th was a chief, named I'ioony, to wliom the Captain ma a present of a hatchet, spike-nail, and several oil articles, with which he was highly pleased. Soon after, a party of them embarked in two boats,| company with Tioony, who conducted them to a lia creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of the sliif where landing was extremely easy, and the boats i cure against the surf. Here they found an imme crowd of people, who welcomed them on shore d loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much a stick, or any other weapon in his hand ; an indubiu ble sign of their pacific intentions. They thronged | thick round the boats with cloth and matting, to change for nails, that it was some time before could get room to land. Many who could not get the boats, threw into them, over the others' head whole bales, of cloth, and then retired, without eitlj l^skino; or waiting; t9 ^et an/ thing in cetura. The cli ^M^: CAPTAIIf COOK. 9§ iducted iherr to his house, about three hundred Irds (rum the sea, at the head of a fine lawn, and ider the shade of some shaddock trees. 1 he situa- in was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the tps at anchor; behind, and on each side, were plan- lions, in which were some of the richest productions nature. I'he floor was laid with mats, on which ;y were placed, and the people seated themselves in :ircle round them on the outside. Having the bag- Ipes with them, Captain Cook ordered them to be lyed ? and in return, the chief directed three young }nien to sing a song, which they did with a very good ice ; and having made each of them a present, this imediately set all the women in the circle a singing. leir songs were musical and harmonious. Bananas cocoa nuts were set before them to eat ; and a >wl of liquor prepared in their presence, of the juice Lava, for them to drink. But Captain Cook was only one who tasted it; the manner of brewing it [vi.ig quenched the thirst of every one else. The /I was, however, soon emptied of its contents b/ natives. hey returned on board to dinner, with the chief in fir company. He sat at table, but eat nothing ; which, they had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraordi* ry. Near some of the houses, aiid in the lanes that di* led the plantations, were ru.nning about some hogs very large lowls, which were the only domestic Imals they saw ; and these they did not seem willing part with, which determined them to leave this ||ce. As soon as the Captain was on board, they made down to Amsterdam. Opening the west side of isle, they were met by SQveral canoes, each con- :ted by three or four men. ""J hey came boldly along- presented them with some £ava rott, and iheii \e on board, without farther ceremony, inviting kn by all the friendly signs they could make to go to lir island, and poiniing to the place where they lid anchor. - « . .,...' f 12 •i^Jfr .*» i;iii 'i :.lll.(^i ffl' •I 100 VOYAGES OK Having secured the ships, Captain Cook landed, aJ companied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and J vera I of the officers; having along with them a chit} or person of some note, whose name was Attago, wi) bad attached himself to the Captain from the first m\ ment of his coming on board, which was before th? anchored. After walking a little way into the coui try, thev returned to the landing*place, and thert found Mr. Wales in a laughable, though distressed situJ ation. The boats which brought them on shore ni being able to get near the landing-place, for want ofj sufficient depth for water, he pulled off his shoes m stockings to walk through, and as soon as he got un land, he put them down betwixt his legs to put again, but they were instantly snatched away by a son behind him, who immediately mixed with crowd. It was impossible for him to follow the m^ barefooted over the sharp coral rocks, which come the shore, without having his feet cut to pieces. \\ boat was put back to the ship, his companions had eatj made his way through the crowd, and he left in i condition alone. I'he chief soon found out the thicj and recovered his shoes and stockings, and of his m accord conducted them to a plantation hard by, i^ shewed them a pod of fresh water, though they not made the least enquiry after any. One of the natives l;aving got into the master's cabii took out some books, and other things. He was dd covered just as he was getting out into his canoe, pursued by one of their boats, which obliged himj quit the canoe, and take to the water. 1 he peopkl the boat made several attempts to lay hold of hii| but he, as often, dived under the boat, and at last i shipping the rudder, he got clear oflf. Some other vk daring thefts were committed at the landing-piatj One fellow took a seaman's jacket out of the boat, carried it off in spite of all the people in her. '1 her of the natives, who were very numerous, took little notice of the whole transaction ; nor were theyt least alarmed when the miin ivas fired at. CAPTAIN COQK. Ifil -^,ttago visited Captain Cook again the next morning. Id brought with him a hog, and assisted him in pur- ising several more. This day the Captain was told the officers who were on shore, that a far greater in than any they had yet seen was come to pay them risit. Mr. PickersgiJI informed them that he had kn him in the country, and found that he was a man I some consequence, by the extraordinary respect hid to him by the people. Some, when thev ap- bached him, fell on their faces^ and put their head jitween their feet ; and no one durst pass him without irmissipn. 1 he Captain found him seated ni-ar the iding-place with so much suiien and stupid gravity, at, notwithstanding what had been told him, he really 3k him for an ideot, whom the people, from spme su* trsiitious notions, were ready xq worship. FJe saluted id spoke to him ; but he nt-iiber answered, nor did alter a single feature in his countenance '1 his con- Tied him in his opinion ; and he was just going to ive him, when one of the natives undertook to un- ^ceive him ; which he did in such a manner, as left no 3m to doubt that he was the king, or principal man the island. i\ccordingIy he made him a present, lich consisted of a shirt, an axe, a piece of red cloth, looking glass, some nails, m«-dals, and beads. He reived ihes« things, or rather suflfered them to be puit on him, and laid by him, without losing a bit of his iviiy, speaking one word, or turning his head either the right or left ; sittmg the whole time like a sta- le ; m which situation he left him to return on board, Id he soon after retired. 1 he Captain had not been ig on board, before word was brought that a quan- y of provision had come from this chief. A boat IS sent to bnng it from the shore ; and it consisted about ivveniy baskets of roasted bananas, sour bread Id yams, ami a roasted pig of about twenty pounds Jight. The bearers said it was a present from the ?eke, that is the king of the island, to the areeke the ship. After this they were no longer to doubfc m 11- 102 VOYAGES OF the dignity of this sullen chiefs whose name wasKi haehee-too-Fallangou. The Captain again went on shore, and made tli; great man a suitable return, and immediately prepan for quitting the place. At ten o'clock they got undi sail. The supplies they got at this isle were about oi hundred and fifty pigs, twice that number of fowls, many bananas and cocoa-nuts as they could find r«)oi for, with a few yams ; and had their stay been longed they, no doubt, might have got a great deal more. On leaving these islands, they made sail to the souti ward; it being Captain's Cook's intention to procci directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zealan there to take in wood and water, and then to go farther discoveries to the south and east. He was vei desirous of having some intercourse with the natives this country, about Poverty or Tolaga Bays, where apprehended they were more civilized than at Queci Charlotte's Sound, in order to give them some hogi fowls, seeds, and root«, which he had providti for the purpose. They arrived on the SJst; a passing Cape Kidnappers, they saw some canoes pu oif from the shore. Upon this they brought to, order to give them time to come on board. 1 hose in the first canoe, which came along-side, were fishers, and exchanged some fish for pieces cloth and nails. In the ntxt were two men, who, bjl their dress and behaviour, seemed to be chiefs. 1 hei two were easily prevailed on to come on board, \vh they were presented with nails> and other article They were so fond of nails, as to seize on all they couldl £nd, and with such eagerness, as plainly shewed thej were the r!!Ost valuable things they could give thtj To the principal of these two men Captain Cook gave! the pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots. At first, he did not thinl[ it was meant to give them to him ; for he took but iinlej notice of them, till he was satisfied they were for him self; nor was he then in such rapture as when he gavel him a spike-nail half the length of his arm* HoweveJ j^t his ^oing away^ the Captain took notice thai lie )se name wasKj CAPTAIN COOK. 103 Ito have them all collected together, and kept a iful eye over them, lest any should be taken away, [made a promise not to kill any ; and if he keeps ^ord and proper care is taken of them, there were rh to stock the who'e island in due time, .jy now stretched lo the southward ; presently violent weather came on, and for two days they beating up against a hard gale. When they ar- just insight of port, they had the mortification to [riven off from the land by a furious storm. They Snued to combat tempestuous weather till the 30th, ♦.hey lo«t sight of the Adventure, In the afternoon rale abated. Captain Cook now regretted the loss of for had she been with him, he should have up all thoughts of going to Queen Charlotte's id 10 wood diifl water, and to have sought for a place ;t these articles farther south, as the wind was now irable f(»r ranging along the coast, liut their sepa* )n made it necessary for them to repair to the |nd, that being the place of rendezvous. As they roacivdd the land, they saw smoke in several places the shore ; a sure sign that the coast was in- ircd. They continued to stand to the eastward all jt, in hope« of meeting with the Adventure in the rnirg^ ^>iit in this they were disappointed, and encountered another storm. Afier a succession of IS and brisk gales, in tracing the coast, they disco- td en the east side of Cape Teerawhitie, a new It they had never observed before, into which they jred, and cast anchor. Immediately on their anchpring, several of the na- \% came olT in their canoes ; two from one shore, and from the other. It required but little address to three or four of tuem on board. These people were ravagantly fond of nails, above every other thing. lone man the Captain gave two cocks and two hens, jich he received with so much indilfcrence, as gave le hopes he would take proper care of them. They ' not been at anchor here above two hours, before / «!, l- ii m^\'^ iw >iii! 104 V0YAGE5 Of the wind veered to N. E. with which they welgli and steered fur the Sound, where they arrived juij dark, with most of their sails split. . The next morning, the 3d of November, thei abated, and was succeeded by a few hours calm; ; that a breeze sprung up at N. VV. wiih which , weighed, and ran up into Ship Cove, where iheyi not find the Adventure, as was expected. The thing they did, after mooring the ship, was to unb the sai s, there not being one but what wanted r^p in the afternoon, they gave orders for all the em water casks to be landed, and tents to be set up for] sail-makers, coopers, and others, whose business it necessary for them to be on shc^re. The next they began to caulk the ship's sides and decks, tooJ haul ht-r rigging, repair the sails, cut wood for tf and set up the smith's forge ^o repair the iron-vvorkj of which were absojuttly necessary. Here they saw the youngest cf the two sows CapJ Furneaux had pi.t on shore in Cannibal Cove, \v| they were last here ; it was lame of one of its! legs, otherwise in goo I case, and verv tanie. Ifiij understood t:icse ptope r-ght, the l)oar and othen were also taken away, and separated, bu( not kilJ They were likewise lod, that the two goats theyl put on sliore up the Sound had been killed. 'J husj their endeavours to stock this country with useii rnals were like y to be frustrated by the very pea, they meant to serve. The gardens had fared somew belter, livery thing in them, except the potata ihey had le't eni rely to nature, who had actcdt jpan S'^ well, that they found mo t articit s in a Houni ing state; a proof that the winter must have b« mild. The p' tatces had most of them been dugu some, however, si ill remained, aud were growiis and, it is probable, they %vi|l never be out of gsound. :,- '1 he next morn'nrr the Captair^ sent over to cove, vsht-re the uatrvcs rebided, to haul the seine ^^ : ' ' % • ■ .;■ CAPTAIN COOK. 105 [with him a bonr and a young sow, two cocks and lens, they had brought from the isles, 'i'hese he to the naiives, being persuaded ihey would lake jr care of them, by their keeping Captain Fur- Jx's sow near five months. When they were pur- ine fish of these people, they shewed a great incli- jn to pick pockets, and to take away the fish with hand, which they had just sold or bartered with nher. This evil one of the chiefs undertook to re- re, and with fury in his eyes, made a shew of }ii)g the people at a proper distance. 1 he Captain t^ ** 1 applauded his coniuct, but at the same time It so good a look out, as to detect him in picking my ket of a handkerchief, which I suflered him to put lis bosom before 1 seemed to know any thing of the jter, and then told him what 1 had lost. He seemed |te ignorant and innocent, till I took it from him ; I then he put it off with a laugh, acting his part [h so much address, that it was hardly possible f<^ to be angry with him ; so that we remained good ^iids, and he accompanied me on board to dinner/* )ut that time they were visited by several strangers four or five canoes. |n unpacking the bread, four thousand two hundred ninety-two pounds they found totally unfit to eat, about three thousand pounds more could only be ten by people in their situation, 'i he 15th being a tasant morning, a party went over to East Bay, and ibed one of the hills, which overlooked the eastern [u of the strait, in order to look for the Adventure. iy had a fatiguing walk to little purpose; for when iv came to :hed to the north, and soon got clear of it, but ^eforc they had received several hard knocks frorrv irger pieces, which, with all their care, they could [avoid. After clearing one danger, they still had ler to encounter j the weather remained foggy, many large islands lay in their way. One they very near falling aboard of; and if it had hap- 1, this circumstance would never have beeOsXeiat^ These difficulties determined them to get more to lorth. •> .. . - the 21st, they very suddenly got in amongst a jerof very large ice islands, and a vast quantity of pieces; and as the fog was, exceedingly thick, il [with the utmost difficulty they wore clear ot them. the 23d, the wind being pretty moderate, and the [smooth, they brought to at the outer edge of the hoisted out two boats, and sent to take some up.' snow froze on the xiggmg a» it fell, making tU# .p,«i. inu <•■ mi ji If I. B^ II IP I I , ■ q^pmffp I^Br I^HtT 3 11 ! fflBi ' ;i iBIl' 1 ||w]^^||lk| ■ ■it 'hnK'HWm^W ' i 1 > U i |Hg;|i'i' iIpF' '■ \\ HH'1 ^4 ^>' ' Mil It' :'^ 1 Bi K'*'^ ' 1' ; 1 ^Mimijr ' 1 iH^l' 1 ' { 1 ^Sml 1 ^H| 1 li ' BllBBKMW^ l' 'i . Ii^^w^bI li li' illHwl ' 1 , '1 Biffi^^ff «g«B i > ;i!' 1- ' MIBmIBw ^B^k 1 :\ i ^ ■Jl^l^^i'^n r ' n! ilH '1 l||| ll i Hffii |{ !'■- H^Bi i ^^B^uSnilH^Effl 1 Ml' '■^^^^Rfil^EnUSw ^^ * T 1 1 ■ i UnBoulHlulH^ *' 1; ]'• i !' ■ 'lllill ■ ' 1 '. i ^^^tipili :! , '.,. ^^BhbIh I Jfji!' 1 '■ := 1 1 n:.", SBhBu Sat ' 'ilft!'<'^ WBbi I^ 1 nl,'' ''h ■'■H . "''' SjUffiH |n jiiS I'I'.i 1" ii ', ' '. ^K^|||l"J ;t||ili ,'■1 ihr"! ■ ■ ■ ' f " ' ■ , i His] *'*' :,! ^ ^ ■! 1 wBiiiiii v\ ^hE^IH ^Hlililra Iil::^' ^■MHii ''iM ■■i 108 VOYAGES OF ropes like wires, and the sails like boards or p\^ metal. On the 30th of January, 1774, very early J morning, they perceived the clouds, over thehiJ to the south, to be of an unusual snow-white bi] ness, which they knew denoted their approactil -field of ice. Soon after they were close to itsedgj extended east and west, far beyond the reach oi{ sight, in the situation they were in, just the soutl half of the horizon was illuminated by the rays of] reflected from the ice, to a considerable height. |i ty-seven ice hills were distinctly seen within thcj besides those on the outside; many oi them veryl and looking like a ridge of mountains^ rising one; another, till they were lost in the clouds. . ^Ihe or northern edge of this immense field was coni;{ of loose or broken ice close packed together ; so i v^as not possible for any thing to enter it. Ihii about a mile broad : within which was solid ice ij continued compact body, it was rather low anj except the hills, but seemed to increase in hd^lj the south ; in which direction it extended beyond i sight. it being found impossible to proceed farther inl direction, the Captain came to a resolution to pro to the north, and to spend the ensuing winter uJ the tropic, if he met with no employment befort| came there, as he was now well satisfied no conti^ was to be found in this ocean, but what must liei to the south, as to be totally inaccessible on accouol ice ; and that if one should be found in the 8outU Atlantic Ocean, it would be necessary to havej whole summer before them to explore it. Ihey; steered north, inclining to the east, and in the evei they were overtaken by a furious storm, attended i snow and sleet, it came so suddenly upon them,i before they could take in their sails, two of themi biown to pieces, and the others much damaged. On the 25 th Captain Cook was ukea ill of tiuj liout choliCf which was lo violent as to confiae bii / CArTAfN COOK, ^ lOl^ :d ; SO that the management of the ship was left jr. Cooper, the first officer, who conducted her to his satisfaction. It was several days before the ; dangerous symptoms of his disorder were removed ; , Bg which time Mr. Patten, the surgeon, was to not only a skilful physician, but an ^ifectionaKi When he began to recover, a favourite d(»g, be- ing to Mr. Forster, fell a sacrifice to bis tender ich. They had no other fresh meat whatever on ; and the Captain could eat of this fiesh, as well roth made of it, when he could taste nothing else, he received nourishment and strength from food }h would have made most people in Europe sick ^ fue it is, that necessity is governed by no law. eighkp*clock in the nlorning on the 1 Ith of March» wassftn from the mast-head, bearing west, about te leagues distant. They now tacked, and en- foured to get into what appeared to^be a bay, on [vest side of the point ; but betbre this could be ac- jlished, night came upon them^ and they stood on )ff, under the laud, till the next morning, Thisi* I Easter Island, or Davis's Land. ?re a canoe, conducted by two men, camfe oflf. brought with them a bunch of plantains, which sent into the ship by a rope, and then they re- ?d on shore. This gave the Captain a good opi* I of the islanders, and inspired them with ho »es of jng some refreshments, of which they were in great 1 hey continued to range along the coast, till opened the northern point of the isle. While the [was plying in, a native came on board. The first he did was to measure the length of the ship, ithoming her from the tatferal tu the stem ; and as }unted the fathoms, they observed that he called lumbers by the same names that they do at Ota«* i nevertheless, his language was nearly unierjgi«> D all of them, le next morning the Captain went on shore, ac- )anied by some m the gentlemen, to see what the ^ was likely ro afford. They landed at a sandy i!ii 110 * VOYAGES OF beach, vvjierc some hundreds of the natives were sembled, and who were S3 impatient to see them, many of them swam off to meet the boats. Not of them had so much as a stick or weapon of any in his hand. After distributing a few trinkets amoi them, they made signs for some tiling to eat j on w| they brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and sua canes, and exchanged them for nails, looking- g!a; and pieces of cloth. "^Ihey presently discovered i they were as expert thieves, and as tricking in il exchanges, ^s any pe(5ple they had yet met with. was with some difficulty they could keep their hau their heads j but hardly possible to keep any thim their pockets, not even what themselves had sold- they would watch every opportunity to snatch it IrJ them, so that they sometimes bought thefllineilj two or three times over, and after all did not get it.] On the Itiih of March they again stood out toi and having now ti steady settled trade-wind, pleasant weather, the forge was ordered to be sen to repair and make various necessary articles in thei way. On the t>th of April they saw an isle, whiili, it was a new discovery, they, named Hood's hk after the young gentleman who first saw it ; the»ecK was thjt of St. redroi the third. La Dominica; the fourth, St. Christina. 'I'he; ranged the S. £.i of La Dommica, without seeing the least signs of i thorage. Some canoes put off from these places, followed them dovvr. the coast. '; .. At length, having come before the port they wd , in search of, they cast anchor. This was no sc done, than about thirty or forty of the natives camel in ten or t\yeive canoes j but it required some addif to get them along-side. At last a hatchet and spike-nails induced the people in one canoe to under the quarter-gallery ; after which all the ci!) put along-side, and having exchanged some bread-fn and fish, for small nails, retired on shore. On the 10th, earh' in the morning, some people fd more distant parts came in canoes along-side^ aud ) * » . ** ' • CAPTAIN COOK. Ill some pigs ; so that they had now sufficient to give crew a fresh meal. After dinner the Captain went shore, and collected eighteen pigs. Next morning went down to the same place where he had been preceding evening ; but, instead of getting pig»» ,ie expected, found the scene quite changed. The is, and other things, they were mad alter but the ^ning before, they now despised. The rea^'H was, se- of the young gentlemen having landed the pre- |ing day, had givtn away in exchange various arti- which the people had not seen before, and which with them more than nails, or more useful iron is. Trade being thus stopped, the Captain pre- yed to .leave this place, and go where their wants rht be effectually relieved ; for, after having been :teen weeks at sea, and living all the time on salt t, they c«uld not but want some fefreshments ; yet \y had not one sick man on board, owing to the many [iscorbutic articles they had, and to the great atten- of the surgeon. April the 11 th, at three o'clock in afternoon, they weighed. They had now but k wind, and that very variable, with showers of [I* ^Vith a fine easterly wind they steered till the ITth, ien land was seen bearing W. half N. which, upon a irer approach, they found to be a string of low islots, Inected together by a reef of coral rocks. As they ered along the coast, the natives appeared in several Ices, armed with long spears and clubs, and somCv [re got together on one side of the creek. The Cap- sent two boats, well armed, on shore, under the imand of Lieutenant Cooper, with a view of hav- some intercourse with them. I'hey saw them land [hout the least opposition. Some little time after, /ever, observing forty or fifty natives, all armed, ling towards the boats, they stood close in shore, in ler to be ready to support their people in case of an Bck. But nothing of this kmd hitppened ; and soon |er the boats returned on board, when Mr. Cooper ^rmed the Captain, that, on his landing, onW a few K2 I m hi' i, iWnl'!!,,:! ij-,; IVJ VOYAGES OF ef the natives met him on the beach, but there manv in the skirti of the woods, with spears in t|) hancfs. The presents he made , them were rectn %vith great coolness, which plainly shewed they J unwelcome visitors. They brought on board hvedd ^vhich seemed to be in plenty there. They saw] fruit, but cocoa-nuts, of which they got by exchang two dozen. On the 18th, at day-break, they wore down to; ther isle, which they had in sight to the westwi xvhich they reached by eight o'clock, and ranged. S. K. side at one mile from shore. These must bet same islands to which Commodore Byron gave thenii of George's Islands. They made the high land] Otaheite on the 2 1st of April, and at eight o*clocl(< next morning anchored in Matavai Bay. This vvasj sooner known to the natives, than many of them , them a visit, and expressed not a little joy at see them again. On the :24th, Otoo, the king, and several chiefs, with a train of attendants, paid them a vii^ and brought them, as presents, ten or a dozen hogs, besides fruit. The Captain, knowing how no it was his interest to make this man his friend^^met I at the tents, and conducted him and his friend i board, where they staid dinner, after which they wa dismissed with suitable presents, and highly plea with the reception they had met with. On the mon ing of the ^tjth, the Captain went down to Opad accompanied by some of the officers and gentlemeoj pay Otoo a visit. As they drew near, they observeiij number of large canoes in motion : but were surprisi when they arrived, to see upwards of three hundn ranged in order, for some distance, along the shore,^ completely equipped and manned, besides a vast nun ber of armed men upon the shore. So unexpected! armament collected together in tBeir neighbourho in the space of one night, gave rise to various (n jccturci. ►'.S ..^ 'U44 h li CAPTAIN COOK. ^ Il3 I hey had not been long gone IVom Oparree, where ihat time rhey missed Otoo, before the whole fleet- in motion, to the westward, whence it came, len they got to Matavai, thiy were told that this It was pail of the armament intended to go against ,ea whose chief had thrown oil' the yoke of Ota" If' and assuiTied an independency. On the morn- oV the 27 ih of April, the Captain received a pre- It from a chief named Tow ha, consisting of two re hogs and some fruit, sent by two of his servants, ') h:id orders not to receive any thing in return ; nor lid they, when oflered them. Soon after, he went in to Oparree in his boat, where leaving (ound both chiiif and the king, after a short stay, he brought l)oth on board to dinner, together with Tareva- the king's younger brother, and 1 ee. Ai soon as fy drew near the ship, the admiral, who had never I one before, began to express much surprise at so a sight. He was conducted all over the ship, every of which he viewed with great attention. On occasion, Otoo was the principal shew-man ; for, |this time, he was well acquainted with the diller- 1 parts of the ship. Soon after, the king and his at- iants went away also. Captain Cook had been id to assist them against I'iarabou, but to their soii- lions he gave no encouragement. -- • ^? t?. -•. )n going on shore in the morning of the Tth, they id Otoo at the tents, and took the opportunity to ihis leave to cut down some trees for fuel, which he lily granted. The Captain told him he should cut [n no trees that bore any fruit, lie was pleased this declaration, and told it aloud several times to )eople about them. pie following night all their friendly connections re- 3d an interruption, through the negligence of one le sentinels on shore. He having either slept or ^ed his post, gav^ one of the natives an opportunity irry off his musket. I'he first news the Capiaia [d of it was from Tee, whom Otoo had sent on board that purpose. They were not well enough ac- . ■WWII f^ 1,(1.1 1 n^i .wvwfmw^"!'^ ml !;'!! ♦in;.'; ' ' '< 114 VOYAGES OF * quaintcd with their language to understand all let] story ; but they understood enough to know that somt; thing had happened which had alarmed the king. [ crder, therefore, to be fully informed, the Capnj went on shore with Tee. As soon as they landed,; Avas informed of the whole by the serjeant who con manded the party. The natives were all alarmed, ^ the most of them fled. Tee and the Captain wenti look for Otoo ; and as they advanced, he endeavoun to allay the fears of the people, but at the same tin insisted on the musket being restored. After travell 5ome distance into the country, Tee stopped all once, and advised the Captain to return, saying, tl^ Otoo was gone to the mountains, and he would p ceed> and tell him that, he (the Captain) was still i friend, ^i'ee also promised that he would use his( deavours to recover the musket. On this the captain returned to the ship, and after he observed six large canoes coming round ?oi Venus. I'here being room for suspecting that person beioiging to these canoes had committed) theft, he came to a resolution to intercept them; having put olF in a boat for that purpose, gave ord for another to follow. One of the canoes, which i some distance ahead of the rest, came directly fort ship. He went along-side this, and was. told that ^vas then at the tents. Pleased with this news, hec tradicted the orders he had gfven for intercepting i other canoes, thinking they might be coming on also. But when he landed, he was told that Otool not beea there, nor knew they any thing of him. looking behind him, he saw all the canees makin^j \a the greatest haste ; even the one he had left ala $ide the ship had evaded going on board, and wasi )ng her escape. \ exed at being thus outwitted, hei solved to pursue them j and as he passed the ship, m orders to send another boat for the same purpose. I out of six they took, and brought along-side ; but: first, which a^ted the hnes&e so well, got clear off, CAPTAIK COOK. 115 , one of the canoes they had taken, was a chief, a Id of Mr. Forstcr's, who had hitherto called him- Un Earee, and would have been much offended if lone had called his title in question ; also three wo* I his wife and daughter, and the mother of the /joutaha. These, together with the canoes, the itain resolved to detain, and to send the chief to ^ • thinking he would have weight enough with him ibtain the return of the musket, as his own property I at stake. In the dusk of the evening it was brought the tents, together with some other things they had k which they knew nothing of, by three men who pursued the thief, and taken them from him. The )tain knew not if they took this trouble of their own )rd, or by order of Otoo. He rewarded them, and [de no farther enquiry about it. When the musket d other things were brought in, every one then pre- it, or who came after, pretended to have some nand the recovering them, and claimed a reward accord- {ly, But there was no one acted this farce so well at uno, a man of some note, and well known to the iptain when he was here in 1769. This man came, |th all the savage fury imaginable in his countenance, id a large club in his hand, with which tie beat about I, in order to shew how he alone had killed the ^ief ; when, at the same time, K.ej all knew he had )t been cut of his house the whole time. As the most essential repairs of the ship were nearly lished, it was resolved to leave Otaheite in a few lys ; and the Captain accordingly ordered every thing I be got off from the shore, that the natives might see ley were about to depart. On the 12th, Oberea, ^ho had grown old and decriped, paid them a visit, id brought a present of hogs and fruit. Soon after ime Otoo, with a great retinue, and a large quantify ^f provisions. The Captain was pretty liberal in his iituim, thinking it might be the last time he should see ^hese good people, who had so liberally relieved their |kvants, and in the evening etertained them with fire* 'ii:i«' l,<'!ll W fi\ if i|.jl i; lit** VOYAGES OF In the afcernaon, on the Ijth of May, they anchon in O'VVharre Harbour, in the island of Huaheim when Oree, the chief, brought a hog, and other tides, to the Captain, who, in return, invitj him and his friends to dinner. Early in the mon ing of the 23d they unmoored, and put to i^ Oree, the chief, was the last man who went out oftij ship. At parting, the Captain told him they should J each other no more, at which he wept, and said, ' your sons come, we will treat them well." Oree J a good man in the utmost sense of the word ; but maj of the people were far from being of that disposing and seemed to take advantage of his old age. Dunn their stay here, they got bread-fruit and cocoa-nuisj abundance, but not hogs enough ; and yet it did notap pear that they were scarce in the isle. It must, how] '^'"'^" « •eemed to be stout, xvT"V '"'"^^ ^•>'««'^- 1i cept round the waists T„^ "'^"' *"^ "^ked.i feces, breasts and thT»,: I 'T^ "f' 'hem hadi^ ■^ On the 2(jth of Ju fe '.h"^'"""^ '''''^''- Rotterdam. Before he iS^l wT'' """ ">« "'« the natives came off from 1 if n" -5°' '° ^" »>>'H y'-'h them yams and shad lnIP'"f.")."»°". ^J for small nails and ol ' ra^° t'''^'^ '^^r ^^'^4 «he 28th, Lieutenant CifL"V",''^'''"*»i»5l fourteen or fifteen men \!Z,' ?"' "'« "^^ster J ^"ter. She was no "00!"',°"?^^ '" "'«ta""'k3 gathered about her, beS. '"'^''•."''^" '^e naJ the officers were in soml?^, "'.?°™de a manner, d casks; however, hervenmre l" "^7 ^'"""'^ '^A got them filled, and into th/i ' '"'''• '"'"' "^^M employed. Mr. Clerke's ,mn " '^ani. While J ancj carried off; as werS 1 '"'' »"^'<^hed from liiJ tools, and other articles All f- '"""^ "^ '^^ "»9^ by stealth; (or they ad ho! f "■".'^°ne, as i, „W J he Captain landed ™ " ""'h-.g by main f„r« put off; and the natfvisTlh" wrre'nre"ut- "" ''''^' iv were pretty numerous s CAPTAIN COOK. l\9 beacbi as soon as the saw him, fled ; so that he )ected something had happened. However, he railed on many to stay* Being informed of all the ceding circumstances, he quickly came to a resolu" to oblige them to make restitution ; and for this jose, ordered all the marines to l>e armed, and onshore. He then sent all the boats olf but one, which he staid, having a good many of the na- ^s about him, who behaved with their usual courtesy ; he made them so sensible of his intention, that, before the marines cam^, Mi:. Clerke's musket brought. 'aptain Cook quitted Rotterdam, or Anamooka, lediately after this, and on the CiOih they saw the imit of Amattafoa, but not clear enough to deter- le, with certainty, whether there was a volcano [no; but every thing they could see concurred to le them believe there was. As the Captain intend- to get to the south, in order to explore tiie land lich might lie there, they continued to ply betweei* Isles of Lepers and Aurora ; and on the lOth of ly, the last' mentioned isle bore south, distant twent^i Lt day-break, on the 2 1st, tliey found th^.mselveis tore the channel that divides W hitsuntide island from South Land, which is above two leagues over. ^ving sent two armed boats to sound, and look for chorage, they soon followed. Kext morning early, |[ood maiiy of the natives came round them, som:e in loes, and others swimming. 1 he Captain soon pre- yed on one to come oii board ; which he no sooner than he was followed by more than he desired ; that not only the deck, bm rigging, was prcsepfiy ^d with them. He took four infio the cabin, and H'e tiiem various articles, which they shewed to those the canoes, and seemed much pleased with tht^ir tepticn. , i,'.f: J |Unwilling to lose the bc«e6t of the moon-light nightv ich now happened, they weighed on the 2Jd^ andv acceded out of the harbour, ii^ooa after they gut ta si i, ■ •^Hmrmi^'lf'\fif m ■'•«{WW seemed tc make hnit ur . L . .... ■.. JUli^ 1.1 f XitlllHll '((•."i 132 VOYAGES Of no impression on the people there : on the contnrjr, ihcy began to halloo, and to make sport Of it. On the 9th, Mr. Forsier learnt from the people the proper name of the island, which they call 'i'anna. Ihey gave them to understand, in a manner whicji tliey thought admitted of no doubt, that they eat hu. mau flesh, and that circumcision was practised amoiij them. They began the subject of eating human flesit of their own accord, by asking them if they did. One of the men employed in taking in ballast, scalded liii fingers in removing a stone out of some water. This circumstance produced the discovery of several hot springs at the foot of the clitT, and rather below high water mark. On the 17th, the Captain went on shore, to pay a visit to an old chief, wl;o was said to be king of the island. His name was Geogy, and they gave him thf | title of Areeke. He was very old, but had a merry, open countenance. He wore round his waist, a broad red and white chequered belt; but this whs hardly a mark of distinction. The next day, the Captain went again ashore, and found in the crowd old Geogy, and a son of his, who soon made him understand, that they wanted to dine with him ; atid accordingly he brought them, and two more, on board. When he got themoal board, he went with them all over the ship, which they viewed with uncommon surprise and attention. They happened to have for their entertainment, a kind of a pie, or pudding, made of "plantains, and some sort o( greens which they had got from one of the natives. On this, and on yams, they made a heartv dinner. In the afternoon, having made each of them a present of a hatchet, a spjke-nail, and some medals, they were con- ducted on shore, . On the 20i\\ of August, as soon as the boats vverj| hoisted in, they made sail, and stretched to the east- ward. Nothing material occurred till September 4t!i,i when looking S. ]L. the coast suemed to terminate ini| high promontory, which the Captain named Cape C nttp after one of his midihipiuen, who first discovereil *"»a»d. Some gap"* '''"OK- ,0, eclipse of the ,un whilh W""""'"'/ to oLrve *f , 'Ui' view ,hey ho ,,ed out IT '"°" '? happen Wi^ I them fo sound the channel V. ''™^'' '"'"^ »nd .e" e c,»oe. being ,h, „ nearke^ " T^'l '^8^ »^i"4 ,'hem coming off fron, the ,hT™ =ll^^ ''*•' observed diflerent parts. The hi,, k ■''' '"^ mornw^. from H>'nnel, ,hey stood i„7\^^'''rs «?<)«» .igifaJ fo^ -nor 5 rore they .^.e su! o^d'e'd b''!'''^ «« •" - »er 01 the natives, in sixtP^r. • .^^ **£•'«« num- »o,, of whom were Cho " I ^'^'""'' ^"o^'.Z Af first they were sh„ J""""' any sort of weatJl. » »i>ort ««e^heTpre^,°^^°'"'«g "ear the Mp^C^: ;o con^e close enough o:!-"""^ P*°f'« « ""e c^oe Jtiiey lowered down to Hif^K '"'' ?''*«'""• 1W te'"™. they tied two fi h ^l ! """P^', '° "b-cb.^ IThese mutual exchanges brinV """"^ '""tolerably" pdence, two ventured r„ "/'"^'ng, on a kind of con h"r after, she ZmTJlTl '^' '^jp , and p?".' hmpany of several at'Z: t feb'n "^^^ '^'''th, ""''Cr dinner, tlw r^r.. - caom; jnwd boats, having with'^hilL""'" "" «''w«' with two H attached himse^' to hi4 tT" f ""^ "stives wl^ terse E5^'""^ciri ^ mm :;(( I' 154 . VOYAGES OF A chief, whose name was 1 eabooma ; and they had not been on shore above ten minutes, before he called for silence. Being instantly obeyed by every individual present, he made a short speech ; and soon after an* other chief having called for silence, made a speech also* It was pleasing to see with what attention they were heard. Their speeches were composed of short sentences ; to each of which two or three old men an- swered, by nodding their heads, and giving a kind of grunt, significant of approbation, it was impossible for them to know the purport of these speeches ; but thev had reason to think they were favourable to them, ot whose account they doubtless were made. The next morning they were visited by some hun- dreds of the natives J so that before ten o^clock, their decks, and all other parts of the ship, were quite full The Captain's friend, who was of ttie number, brought | him a few roots; but all the others came emptvii respect lo eatables. Some few had with them their | arms, such as clubs and darts, which they exchanged for nails, pieces of cloth, &c. On the following dajr, Mr. Wales, accompanied by Lieutenant Clark, went to make preparations for observing the eclipse of the { lun, which was to happen in the afternoon. Every thing being in readiness to put to sea, at sun* rise, on the 13th of September, they weighed, and I stood out for sea. Notning remarkable occurred till the 28th in the evening, when two low islots were seei bearing W. by S. and as they were connected br breakers, which seemed to join those on their starboard, it became necessary to haul off, in order to get clear of thenk Soon after more breakers appeared, extendioM from the low isles to a great distance. They sptnt the night in making short boards, under the terrible appre^ hension, every moment, ot^ falling on some of the many dangers which surrounded them. Day-light shewed that their fears were not ill- founded, and that the^ had been in the most imminent danger, having tiad breakers continually under their lee, and at a verj little distance from them* They owed their safety m CAPTAIN COOK. 125 he Intcrpoiition of I'rovidence, a good look out, and ^e very brisk manner in which the ship was innnaged. They were now almost tired of a coast which they ^uld no longer explore, but at the risk of losing the ip^ and ruining the whole voyage. The ship was at lis, time conducted by an officer placed at the mast- iead: soon after, with great difficulty, they arrived mliin a mile of land, and were obliged to anchor ia [jjiriy-nine fathoms water ; they then hoisted out a mi, in which the Captain went on shore, accompanied ^v the botanists. Here they found several tall trees, (vbich had been olwerved before at a considerable dis- nice : they appeared to be a kind of spruce pine, very jroper for spars, of which they were in want ; after naking this aiscovery, they hastened on board, in order |o have more time after dinner, when they landed igain with two boats, to cut down such treei> as were wanting. Having got ten or twelve small spars to lake studding-sail booms, boats' masts, &c, and jigbt approaching, they returned with them on board. The purpose for which they anchored under this isle )eing answered, it was necessary to consider what was text to be done. They had, from the top-mast head, [taken a view of the sea around, and observed the Jwhole, to the west, to be strewed with small islots, land-banks, and breakers, to the utmost extent of their iiorizon. This induced the Captain to try to get with- lout the shoals. :;ri r , : Next morning, at day-break, the 30th of Septem- ber, they got under sail, and met with no occurrences worthy of remark, for some days. In the evtjning of the 8th of October, Mr. Cooper having struck a por- poise with a harpoon, it was necessary to bring to, and have two boats out, before they could kill it, and get it on board. It was six feet long ; a female of that kind, which naturalists, call dolphins of the ancients, and which differs from the other kind of porpoise in the head and jaw, having them long and pointed. This bad eighty-eight teeth in each jaw. The haslet, and lean Hesh, were to them a feast. It was eaten roasted^ L3 m': l|l ii 126 VOYAGES OP broiled, and fried, first soaking it in warm ivater, Indeed, little art was wanting to make any thing frJ palatable to those who had been living so long on u|| meat. On the IQth, at day-break, they discovered la bearing S W. which, on nearer approach, they found ii| be an island of good height, and Bve leagues in circuil It was named Norfolk hie, in honour of the nob^l family of Howard. After dinner, a party embark j in two boats, and landed, without any difHculty, be. hind some large rocks, which lined part of the coaii lliey found it uninhabited, and were undoubtedly tit first that ever set foot on it. They observed man trees and plants common at New Zealand; and, n particular, the flax plant, which is rather more luxuriagt Iiere than in any part of that country : but the chk( produce is a sort of spruce pine, which grows in abiu. dance, and to a large size, many of the trees being ai thick 9 breast hieh, as two men could fathom, and ex. ceedingly straight and tall. It resembles the Quebeil pine, for about two hundred yards from the shore, the ground is covered so thick with shrubs and plantJ as hardly to be penetrated farther inland. The woodi were perfectly clear, and free from underwood, anil the soil seemed rich and deep. . ' ■ . After leaving Norfolk Isle, they steered for Newi Zealand, intending to touch at Queen Charlotte'i bound, to refresh the crew, and put the ship in a con* dition to encounter the southern latitudes. On the nth at day-break, thev saw Mount E^mont, which was covered with everlasting snow. Iheir distance from the shore was about eight leagues. On the ISth,! they anchored before Ship Cove ; and in the afternoon, j the Captain went into the cove, with the seine, to trj to catch some fish. The first thing he did after land- ing, was to look for the bottle he left when last here, in which was the memorandum. It was taken away, but by whom it did not appear. Two hauls with the seine producing only four small fish, they in tome met* CAPTAIN COOK. 12? ire made up for chis deficiency, by shooting several Being little wind next morning, they weighed, and arped the ship into thu cove, and there moored. l^Jerc k ibrge was erected, and the ship and rigging re- aired. The Captain gaVe orders that vegetables iould be boiled every morning, with oat-meal and )rtable broth, for breakfast, and with peas and broth ivery day for dinner, for the whole crew, over and ibove their usual allowance of salt meat. In the after- loon, as Mr. Wales was setting up his observatory, he iiscovered that several trees, which were standing ivhen they last sailed from this place, had been cut iown with saws and axes. It was therefore now no Dnger to be doubted chat the Adventure had been in Ihis cove after they had left it. Oo the 6th of November, their old friends having ^aken up their abode near them, one, whose name was Pedro, (a man of some note,) made the Captain a )re$ent of a staff of honour, such as the chiefs gene- rally carry. In return, he dressed him in a suit of old clothes, of which he was not a little proud. Havini; jot this person, and another, into a communicative llnood, he began to enquire of them if the Adventure liad been there during his absence ; and they gave them to understand in a manner which admitted of no loubt, that, soon after they were gone, she arrived ; that she staid between ten and twenty days, and had :en gone ten months. On the 10th of November, they took their farewell lof New Zealand, and steered fur Cape Campbell. The |Captain*s intention now was to cross this vast ocean, so |as to pass over those parts which were left unexplored [the preceding summer. On Saturday, the 17th of December, they made land, about six leagues distant. On this discovery, they wore, and brought to, with the ship's head to the south; and having sounded, found seventy* five fathoms water, the bottom stone and Ijiheils. The land now before them could be no other Mil ' il"ii ;•! wX'^m flft '■; H^ U :^ ,;■ Hi!:!;;/ 128 VOYAGES OP than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near tinj west entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens. On the 18th of December, as they continued u| range the coast, about two leagues distant, they passtdj a projecting point, which was called Cape Glouc€iit\ It shews a round surface of considerable height, audi has much the appearance of being an island, diataDtl seventeen leagues from the Isle of Landfall. On tlitl 20th, at noon, they observed York Minster, then ( taut live leagues. At ten o'clock, a breeze springinjl up at E. by S. they took this opportunity to stand ioro{| the land, to recruit their stock of wood and water, ; take a view of the country. Here was found plenty.! and they set about doing wnat was necessary to thtl ship, the outside of which w^s become very foul. Thtl Captain was now told of a melancholy accident whiclil \i^ befallen ope of the marines. He had not beeil seen sinct eleven or twelve o'clock the preceding nightl It was supposed that he had fallen overboard, outo( the head, where he had been last seen^ and \vai| drowned. ,*> On the 23d, Mr. Pickersgill was sent in the cutteil to explore the east side of the sound, with an intent w survey the island under which they were at anchor, anij which the Captain called Shag Island. About seveJ in the evening he returned, and reported, tl\at the land opposite to their station was an island which ha(i been round; that between it and the east head lay) rove, in which were many geese. This information induQcd them to make up two shooting parties next day | Mr. Pickersgill ind his associates going in the cuttc:,] and ti;e Captain and the bcianists in the pinnace. MrJ Pickersgill went in one direction, and the Captain in another, and they had sport enough arooAg the geese, whence this was denominated Goose Island. There being a high surf, they found great difficulty in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when they were landed -, so that hundreds of the geese escaped, some into the sea, and others up into the land. TFp-', how* ^ver, b^ oi;^ means or other; got sixty-two, with CAPTAIN CeOK. 129 A thfy returned or board all heartily tired ; but [ace lisition they had made overbalanced every other lidei^tion, and they sat down with a good appetite jpperi on part of what the preceding day had pro- »d. Mr. rickersgill and his associates had got on rd some time before with fourteen geese, su that were able to make a distribution to the whole crew, tfch was the more acceptable on account of the ap- iching festival i fur had not Providence thus singu- y provided for them, their Christmas cheer must ie been salt beef and pork. ie next morning, the 25th, some of the natives ||d them a visit. They were a little ugly, half-starved, irdle&s race ; not a tall person appeared amongst (m. They were almost naked ; tneir only clothing IS a sealskin, llie women cover their middle with dap of a seai-skin, but in other respects are clothed le the. men. T^yo young children were seen at the east, entirely nailed ; thus they are inured from their [fancy to cold, aiiq hardships. They had with them )\vs and arrows ; and; darts, or rather harpnonv% made bone, and fitted to a stalT. They, and every thing ^ey had, smelt most intolerably of train oil, Koast and boiled geese and goose-pye, was a treat (tie known to the seamen ; and they had yet some ladeira wine left, which was the only article of pro* ision that was mended by keeping ; so that their iends in England did not, perhaps^ celebrate Christ- )a8^^ ftiore cheerfully than tftey did. 1 his was named 'Christmas Sound. On the 28th they weighed, and stood out to sea, re- iming their course to the cast ; and the next day they )as3ed Cape Horn, and entered the Southern Atlantic )cean. It is the most southern extremity on a groupe )f islands of unequal extent, lying before Nassau Bay, :nown by the name of Hermit Islands. From Cape fllorn, they stood over lor buccess IJay, assisted by the currents, which set to the north. Before this, they had hoisted their colours, and fired two gunsj and soon [after, they saw a smoke rise out uf the wuods, a&ow« «l I > , I mt ■ w : 150 ^he south point of th^u^^^^^ ^' I "'Rifled of the i?f' ^ "^^"^ ^° see if^an. 1 ' ^^1 «|- jnen; ",V:;^^,„'"»|j;. -nd landed ^Ih^tT^ oi" seal, whieh^.h", ««e were aLX* '''"'« H known by the '^"Z '«"'d in New Zeaiatd""" *«'' Wr« "- "feme ■" «--" ofe no.l,i„g was waminrf """y '^e ]„, 1775 , .. ^ 'olerabJe p/ace for^ "' " 8°°'' 'ia;bour ,0 ^l"^^^ design miPhf I • 'iP' *° •'e'resh at wV k l''^ '""'J State , I *5 ■ ''""e '^'•ther. Mr n'l, "'^'' chance or •^'aie 1 land m iho /..,. ' ■"^" "ilbcrt «;«.,. tan -al,,. .„ cuKer, to Jont r„ *"♦ overw wth sea .;'•'' ''"<' "'her boat, ih?"^- ''"he Cap. were km '?''l''^^-''«'-s. &c Thf !.™'"™<-'1 'ade. CAPTAIN COOK. 131 kerable, the flesh was too rank to be eaten with any [gree of relish. But the young cubs were very paiat- [|e • and even tiu flesh of some of the old Hon^sscs IS not much amiss. About ten o'clock, Mr. Gilbert turned from Staten Land, whcr6 he had found a )d port, situated three leagues to the westward of Fape St. John. It is almost two miles in length ; in le places near a mile broad. On the island were lions and seals, and such an inn^'merable quantity of jlls, as to darken the air when disturbed, and almost suffocate the people with their dung. This they ;med to void in a way of defence, and it stunk worse Ian assafoetida. The day on vVhich this port was dis- t)vered, occasioned the Captain's calling it Nezv-Tjear's Jarbonr. Having lefi the land in the evening of the 3d, they nv it again next morning, bearing west. On the kh, at nine o'clock in the morning, they descried an iand of ice, as they then thought ; but at noon were 3ubtful whether it was ice or land ; it turned out to the latter, and was in a manner wholly covered with ■>o\v. On the 1 6th they began to explore the northern )ast, and next morning they made sail in for the ind. As soon as they drew near the shore, having lolsted out a boat, the Captain embarked in it, accrm- [anied by Mr. Forster and his party, with a view of scrnnoitring before they ventured in with the ship, ^hich ihey afterwards declined, as the inner parts of le T t ir.try were savage and horrible. The wild rocks r .eir lofty summits, till they were lost in the i 'id the valleys lay covered with everlasting low. set a tree was to be seen, or a shrub even big Jnough lO make a tooth-pick. They found here nearly the same animals as in the New-year's Harbour. . .Since their rrival on this coast, tlie Captain ordered, in addition to the common allowance, wheat to be )oiled every morning for breakfast ; but any kind of fresh meat was preferred by most on board to salt : his part, he s^ys, he was heartily tired of salt meat '■^ evc-y kind ; and 'though the flesh of the penguin* ^ouid scarcely vie with bullock's liver, its being fresh. mi n no «« .ufficient to make Vr*,"" I breadth i, abouf te„ fe' '"l^^"' ' -^ ^^fc' bay, and Jiarbours, the N F "■■*"" '» ^''o'ind 5| V3« quantity of ice cL,L/°^'^ specially • b.,?' S-»t«. parfof the Tea,! '"""" '"«'" inaccV.siS ,t «^^;:tt^2;!'Vir„^'^''^.^.'«d3co„ti„„„, h'S" -• "srn latitudes whr I ^'■°l^"'2^''no« lired ! ''"' i^^ .d thicic fo£, !,w """"."S »^»s to be fL ?°°n ftil in. all at S S '° "'' ^''''' "'h^nS •ce-Iands. and a sm « i" ' ''^^ number ofl ' reason they tacLn ?'''^'* ^""'' '<>»se ice l^f Wind at nofth 'it i^e^Ianr'' '?• ">« "'eft'. .^1" «:e ; and the whole cou„rv f. ^^1 °'" ""^^ up ^ mountain, down ,<, ^T2'JZ\*^f »ummit,V fe term,na,e the coast, covered .". "''' '""■'' «W everlasting snow. ' ""^' "«"/ 'athoms thick. wS Z'^'^'^'^£!^ vie. or the ,„,, -ng then.W/,r.X^ '-» the occasion ot^! " ent. but of considerable height ^ 'T^ "'' '"> Sm -■" --. Of the .th 4'7i,r th^rcoit lat i (the bcigl CAPTAIN COOK. 135 the east. About noon tliey met with several ice-islands, and some loose ice, the weather continuing hazy, ^ith snow and rain. On the 22d of February, as they were within two degrees of longitude from their route to the south, when they left the Cape of Good Hope, it was to no I purpose t^ proceed any farther to the east under this parallel, knowing that no land could be there. 7"hey I had now made the circuit of the Southern Ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the possibility of there being a continent, unless near the pole, and out of the reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropicaf sea, they had not only settled the situation of some old dis- coveries, but made there many new ones, and left yery lliiile more to be done in that part. Thus the intention of (the voyage had, in every respect, been TuUy answered ; (the southern hemisphere siifficjently explored ; and a final end put to the searching after a southern con- [tinent. Their sails and rigging were so much worn, that homething was giving way every h"ur; and tliey had lijoihing left either to repair or replace them, 'their provisions were in a state of decay, and yielded littlo jnourishment, and they had been a long time withotit h-efreshments. The sailors, indeed, were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever they werft. led ; but they dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them, lat a time when they had nothing left to remove it. it Jwould, however, have been cruel to have continued (the fatigues and hardships they were continually ex- Iposed to, longer than was absolutely necessary. 'I'heir [behaviour, throughout the whole voyage, merited Jvery indulgence which it was possible to give them, animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty and langer which came in their way, and never once looked either upon one or the other, as being at ail icightened, by iheir separation from their oonjort, Ihe Adventure. ' » • • . M E^i:ii'' 16 !• VOYAGES or On the i2th they put a boat into ihe water, and shot some albatrosses and peterels, which, at this time, were highly acceptable- Every one was now become impatient to get into port ; this induced the Captain to yield to the general wish, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope. I'he Captain now demanded ol the officers and petty officers, the log-books and journalj they had kept j which were delivered accordingly, and scaled up for the inspection of the admiralty. He also enjoined them, and the whole crew, not to divulgi where they had been till they had their lordships' pet. mission so to do. In the evening of &^ 17th they saw land about six leagues distant. Next day, having little or no wind, they hoisted out a boat, and sent on board a ship which was about two leagues from them ; but they were too impatient after news to regard the distance- Soon after three sail more appeared in sight to wind' ward, one of which shewed English colours. The boat returning, reported that they had visited a Dutch East Indiaman, whose captain very obligingly offered them sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare. They were told by some Enj;lish seamen on ' beard this ship, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months-ago, and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eatea by the people of New Zealand. On the lyth the True Briton, Captain Broadly, from China, bore down to them. As this ship did not in- tend to touch at the Cape, the Captain put a letter on board for the secretary of the admiralty. The me. lancholy account which they had heard of the Adven. ture was now con6rmed. From this ship they pro- cured a parcel of old news-papers, which were new lo them, and gave them some amusement *, but these were the least favours they received from Captain Broadly. With a generosity peculiar to the coni' manders of ths India Company's ships, he sent them I fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, wht^h were Yery acceptable. In the afteraoon they parted coDi< CAPTAIN COOK. 135 ^ny. The True Briton stood out to sea, and they in for the land. • ' . ' The next morning, being with them, Wednesday, the22d, but with the people here, Tuesday, the 5^1 st, they anchored in Table Bay, where they found several Dutch ships ; some French ; and the Ceres, Captain Newte, an English East India Company's ship, from China, bound directly to England, by whom they sent a copy of the preceding part of this journal, some charts, and other drawings, to the admiralty. Before they had well got to an anchor; the Captain dispatched an officer to acquaint the Governor with their arrival, and to request the necessary stores and refreshments, which Wire readily granted. The Cuptain now learned that the Adventure had called here on her return ; and he found a letter from Captain Furneaux, acquainting him with the loss of his boat, and of ten of his best men, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. The following particulars Captain Cook learnt after his arrival in England, concerning the progress of the Adventure after their separation. In October, 1773, they were blown off the coast of New Zealand ; when they parted company with the Eesolution, and never saw her afterwards. They com- bated violent storms till the 6th of November ; when, being to the north of Cape Palliser, they bore away for some bay to complete their water and wood, being in great want of both ; having been at the allowance of one quart of water for some days past ; and even that pittance could not be come at above six or seven days longer. They anchored at Tolaga Bay. Wood and water are easily to be had. Having got about ten tons, and some wood, they sailed for Charlotte Sound on the 12th; but violent weather prevented them from reach- ing it till the 3eth. ^I hey saw nothing, of the Resolu- tion, and began to doubt her safety ; but, on going on shore, they discerned the place where she had erected her tents ; and, on an old stump of a tree in the gar- den, observed these words cut out, ** Look under- neath." There they dug, and soon found a bottle, M5? II: m: %1 m p^.'.i mm m !», 139 VOYAGES OP corked and waxed down, with a letter in it from Cap. tain Cook, signifying their arrival on the 3d instant and departure on the 24th, and that they intended spending a few days in the entrance of the straits to look for them. They immediately set about the necessary repairs of the ship, which employed them till the 16th of De- cemlier. Next day, they sent their large cutter, with Mr. Rowe, a midshipman, and the boat's crew, to gather wild greens for the shin's company ; with orders to return that evening, as they intended to sail the next morning. But, on the boat*s not returning the same evening, nor the next mornings the second lieu- tenant, Mr. Burney, in the launch, manned with the boat's crew, and ten marines, went in search of her. Mr. Burney returned about eleven o*clock the same night, and informed them of a horrible scene indeed, which cannot be better .described than in his own words. *• On the 18th, we left the ship ; and having a light breeze in our favour, we soon got round Long-Island. 1 examined every cove, on the laiboard hand, as we went along, looking well all around with a telescope. At half past one, we stopped at a beach on the left- hand side going up East Bay, to boil some victuals. Whilt we were cooking, 1 saw an Indian on the up* posite shore, running along a beach to the head of the bay. Our meat being drest, we got into the boat, and put olT; and, in a short time, arrived at the head of this reach, where we saw an Indian settlement. '* As we drew near, some of the Indians came down to the rocks, and waved for us to be gone; but seeing we disregarded them, they altered their notes. Here we found six large canoes hauled up on the beach, most of them double ones, and a great many people. Leaving the boat's crew to guard the boat, 1 stepped on shore with the marines, (the corporal and five men,) and searched a good many of their houses ; but found nothing to give me any suspicion. Coming down to the beachf one of the Indians had brou^'ht a bundle of CAPTAIN COOK. 137 hepatoosi (long spears,) but seeing I looked very ear- nestly at him, he put them on the ground, and walked about with seeming unconcern. Some of the people appearing to be frightened, I gave a looking-glass to one, and a large nail to another. From this place the bay ran, as nearly as I could guess, a good mils. I looked all round with the glass, but saw no boat, canoe^ or any sign of inhabitant. 1 therefore contented myself with firing some guns, which I bad done in every cove as 1 went along. " 1 now kept close to the east shore, and came to another settlement, where the Indians invited us on shore. I enquired of them about the boat, but they pretended ignorance. They appeared very friendly here, and sold us some fish. Within an hour after w^ L »:-M 1 M Ml 138 VOYAGES OP way up the woods, but saw nothing else. Comin? down again, there was a round spot, covered with fresh earth, about lour feet diameter, where something had been buried. Having no spade, we began to dif^ with a cutlass ; and in the mean time I launched the canoe with intent to destroy her ; but seeing a great svnoke ascending over the nearest hill, I got all the people into the boat, and made what haste 1 could to be with them before sun-set. ** On opening the next bay, which was Grass Cove, we saw four canoes, and a great many people on the beach, who, on our approach, retreated to a small hill, ' within a siiip's length of the water side, where they stood talking to us. A large fire was en the top of the high land, beyond the woods, whence, all the way down the K:'., the place was thronged like a fair. The savages on the little hill still kept hallooing, and making signs for us to land; however, as soon as we got close in, we all fired. The first volley did not seem to affect them much ; but on the second, they began to scramble away as fast as they could, some of them howling. We continued firing as long as we could see the glimpse of any of them through the bushes. Among the In- dians were two very stout men, who never offered to move till they found themselves forsaken by their com- panions : and then they marched away with great com- posure and deliberation, their pride not suffering them to run. One of them, however, got a fall, and either lay there, or crawled off on all fou^s. The other gut clear, without any apparent hurt, i then landed vvith rhe marines, and Mr. Fannin staid to guard the boat. ** On the beach were two bundles of celery, which had been gathered for loading the cut ier. A broken oar was stuck upright in the ground, to which the natives had tied their canoes ; a proof that the attack had been made here. I then searched all along at the back of the beach, to see if the cutter was there. \^^ fount' no boat, but instead of her, such a shocking scent of carnage and barbarity, as can never be men- tioiied or thought of but with horror 5 for the headsj Coming it to dif ched the PuWifh'ab^ k forlRoeJSO?. • f » r!' '>> ! CAl^TAIN COOK. J39 hcarii uni lungs of several of our people were seen lying on the beach; and at a little distance the dogs gnawing iheir entrails. «« Whilst we remained almost stupificd on the spot, Mr. Fannin called to us that he heard the savages ga- thering together in the woods ; on which I returned to tiieboat, and hauling along-side the canoes, wc demo- lished three of them. Whilst this was transacting, the fire on the top of the hill disappeared, and we could hear the Indians in the wood at high words ; 1 suppose quarrelling whether they should attack us, and try to save their canoes. It now grew dark ; J, therefore, just stepped out, and looked once more behind the beach, to see if the cutter had been hauled up in the bushes, but seeing nothing of her, returned, and put oir. (3tir whole force would have been Ixirely suffitient to have gone up the hill ; and to have ventured with halt (for half must have been left to gUard the boat) would have been fool-hardiness. " As we opened the upper part of the sound, we saw a very large fire about three or four miles higher up, which formed a complete oval, reaching from the top of a hill down almost to the water side, the middle space being inclosed all round by the fire, like a hedge. 1 consulted with i\lr. Fannin, and we were both of opinion, that we could expect to reap no other advan- tage than the poor satisfaction of killing some more of the savages. " Coming between two round islands, situated to the southward of East Bay, we imagined we heard somebody calling; we lay on our oars, and listened, but heard no more of it ; we hallooed several times, but to little purpose ; the poor souls were far enough out of hearing: and, indeed, I think it some comfort to re- flect, that, in all probability^ every man of them must have been killed on the spot.** In all probability this unhappy business originated in some quarrel, which was decided on the spot ; or in- cautiousness might tempt the natives to seize the oppor- tunity of satisfying their inhuman appetite;!, ihey J ;£!" x'^A. m )!•':'■■*» Ill tJ !.l.f 140 VOYAGES OF . were detained in the boumd, by contrary winds, foji days after this melancholy alYair happened, durin^;, whic! time they saw none of the inhabitants. On the 23d they weighed, and made sail out of the Sound, an stood to the eastward, but were baffled for two or thre days with light winds, before they could clear the coast' January the 10th, 1774, they arrived abreast of Cap JTorn. They were very little more than a month sai! ing from Cape Palliser, in New Zealand, to Caps' Horn, which is 121 '^Qg. of longitude. On opening some casks of peas and flour that had . been stowed on the coals, they found them very much damag'^'d, and not eatable ; so thought it most prudent to make fur the Cape of Good Hope. On the l7thof J'ebruary, they made the land of the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 19th anchored in Table Bay, where they found Commodore Sir Edward Hughes, with his Majesty's ships oalishury ?.nd Seahorse. On the 16tb of April, Captain Furneaux sailed for England, ?ndoii the idth of July anchored at Ppithead. We now return to Captain Cook. The day after his arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, he waited on the Governor, Baron Plettenberg, and other principal of- ficers, who received and treated him with the greatest politeness. They had only three men on board, whom it was thought nctCbsary to send on shore for the recovery cf their health ; and for these the Captain procured quar- ters, at the rate of thirty stivers, or half a crown, per day, for which they were provided with victuals, drink, and lodging. On examining the rudder, it was found recessary to *arihang it, and take it on shore to repair. They were ^IsQ delayed for want of caulkers. At length they ob- tained two workmen from one of the Dutch ships; ^nd the Dutton Jt^nglish East Jndiaman coming in from Bengal, Captain Rice obliged Captain Cook with two piore, so that by the i^6th of April this work was iiuished ; and having got on board all necessary stores, , ftn^ a ffpjh supply of provisions an^ w^ter, they tool; ive of \\ M daj Lieen Ld befol iflisbed sj liid net kheir emv Iwiih freil JThevr be) r.iit the! On th( GovernoJ shore, hj iirned. hland 0^ ■B Cross the 31st iut eve' being ra weighed ihey we Ontl to the 1 Ubiid iky f< jiewec cwu < Onih diuan and { churc road, lugui follo' lam( gnt V/Cc CA?TAIN COOK. 144 lire of the Governor, and other principal officers, and nej'i morning repaired on board. At day-break in the morning of the 15th of May, ^y saw the island of St. Helena, at the distance of Lr(een leagues; and at midnight anchored in the M before the town. During their stay here, they shed some necessary repairs of the ship, which they liad net time to do at the Cape. They also filled all [tiieir empty water-casks j and th^ crcw were served with freih beef, purchased at five pence per pound. Their beef is exceedingly good, ..nd is the only refresh- iDieiit they had worth mentioning. On the 21 St of May, the Captain took leave of the Governor, and repaired on board. Upon leaving the ihore, he was saluted with thirteen guns, which he re- timed. |n the morning of the 28th, they made the l'i!and of Ascension ; and the same evening anchored in Cross Bay. They remained here tiii the evening of the 31st ; andf notwithstanding they had several parties lut every night, they got but twenty-four turtles, it bdng rather too late in the season ; however, as they weighed between four and five hundred pounds each> ihey were pretty well oflT. On the :ilst of May they left Ascension, and steered to the northward. They had a great desire to visit the Island of ISt. Matthew, to settle its situation ; but as they found the wind would not let them fetch it, they steered for the Island of Fernando de Noronha, on ilie coast of Brazil, in order to deteimine its longitude. On the &th of June, at noon, they made that place, d/jtance six or seven leagues. It appeared in detached and peaked hills, the largest of which look^^d like a church lower or steeple. When they arrived in the road, a gun being fired from one of the forts, the Por- tuguese colours were displayed, and the example was followfd by all the other forts. Having speedily ascer- tained the longitude, they stood away without landing. 15y the 18th, they made no doubt that they hi^d now gni tlifi N. K. trade-^wind, as it was attended with fair weather, except now and then some light showers of Wi 1 I i 142 VOYAGES OP rain ; and as they advanced to the north, the wind in* creased, and blew a fresh top-gallant gale. On the 21st, the Captain ordered the still to be fitted to the largest copper, which held about sixty- four gallons. The fire was lighted at four o'clock in the morning, and at six the still began to run. It was continued till six in the evening ; in which time they obtained thirty. two gallons of fresh water, at the expence of one bushel and a half of coals, which was about three-fourths of a bushel more than was necessary to have boiled the ship's company's victuals only ; but the expence of fuel ^vas no object with them. Upon the whole, this is an useful invention j but the Captain savs, he would ad- vise no man to trust wholly to it. For although you may, provided you have plenty of fuel and good cop. pers, obtain as much water as will support' life, you cannot, with all your efforts, obtain sufficient to support health, in hot climates especially, where it is the most wanting. Nothing worth mentioning happened till the 13th of July, when they made the Island of Fayal, one of the Azores, and soon after that of Pico. ^At day break the nfext morning, they bore away for the Bay of Fayal, or De Horta, where, at eight o'clock, thtv anchored. I'he sole design in stopping here, was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity to find the rate of the watch, the better to enable them to fix, with some degree of certainty, the longitude of these islands. Having left the bay, in the morning of the 19th, they steered for the Island of Tercera, in order to as- certain its length ; but the weatber coming on very thick and hazy, and night approaching, they gave up the design, and proceeded with all expedition for Eng- land. On the 2Dth of July, they made the land near Plymouth. The next morning they anchored at Spit- head ; and the same day. Captain Cook landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London, in company witii Messrs. Wales, Forsters, and Hodges. «-«» CAPTAIN COOK. . -. i i - i THIRD VOYAGE* 143 ' Captain Cook might with honour, after two such celebrated voyages as he had had the command of, have retired from all, future toil, and, in the admira- tion of his country, and the aflfection of his friends, have met with that reward for his labours and suffer- iii^s he so eminently deserved ; but he was yet reserved ^ for far greater exertions ; he was yet to undergo more afflictions ; and he was yet doomed, through treachery, and savage barbarity, to expiate a life of the greatest value tu, society, and of the most irreproachable good- ness. For many years it had been a favourite scheme with the most celebrated navigators, to discover a shorter and more commod'o^Lis passage to the oriental regions, than by the Cape of Good Hope. For the conduct of such an enterprise, it was evident, tirat great skill and abilities were requisite ; and though, by the universaJ voice of mankind. Captain Cook was the best qualified, no one could presume to solicit him on the subjtct. As an honourable testimony, however, to liis merit and knowledge, it was resolved to ask b"^ advice re* specting the most proper person to be eiitiusted with the tonduct of this voyage 5 and to determine thi» point, some of the most distinguished naval characiera were invited to meet Captain Cook at the house of Lcrd Sandwich, who then presided over the Board of Admiralty. While the conversation becaine animated on the subject, Cook's miad was fired with the mag- niuide of the design, and the consequences likely to result fronci it. He suddenly startecl up, under the impiessioti of a noble enthusiasm, and oflcred his best services to direct the important objects in view. No proposal could have been more grateful. Captaia Cook was immediately invested with the command. This preliminary step settled, the exact plan of the un^ertakiiiig yy^i n^^i tak<^ inw serious cc^nsidefatigi^ "•JT" ^|^iUl^iafpi"U,i|. ii 144 VOYAGES OP "* All former navigators round the globe haci returned by the Cape of Good Hope ; but to Captam Cook wai assigned the arduous task of attempting the same thine by reaching the high northern latitudes between Asii and America ; and it appears that this plan was settled in consequence of his own sugi^esiions. IJis instruction were, to proceed on the Pacific Ocean through that cluster of islands he had before visited within the southern tropic, and thence, if practicable, to make his way into the Atlantic. To give every stimulus to the prosecution of this great design, motives of interest were super-added to the obligations of duty. An act of parliament, which passed in 1745, offering a reward of twenty thousand pounds to such as should dijcovera passage through Hudson's Bay, was enlarged and ex- plained ; and it was now enacted, that if any ship be- longing to his Majesty, or his subjects, should find and sail through any passage, by sea, between the Atlantic nnd Pacific Oceans, in any direction, or parallel, of the northern hemisphere to the northward of the 5tM de- gree of northern latitude, the sum of twenty thousand pounds was to reward such discovery. 'I'he vessels destined for this f^ervke were the Resp- lution and the Discovery. The command of the for. mcr was giv f to CapJlain Cook ; and tha: of the latter to Captain 'i^'Ierke, who had been our navigator's se- cond lieutenant in his former voyn^^e. Nearly the saiTie ■ complement of men and officers was assigned to each as befofe ; and several months were spent in their equipment and preparation, that the health of the sea- •rr.en, and the success of \\m^ expedition, might have t.vtrv acivantage which i liberal and enlightened atten- tion could hostow. And, \i\ or-jer that the inhabitants of Oiaheiir. and otlier iJand^ in the iS'.)uth Seas, where the l£ngiish hri'l been treated witti so much tinspitality, might be hcnet'ted by the voyage, his Majesty was gra- r'nusly pleased t(/ order som(; o^ tne most useful Euro- pe an nnfijials to h<=' put on b(jard, ktr the use ci those coutitrii s. Added to these, the Capta.ii was furnished vvirh a quantity of garden seed^j and '.he lioard of jm^ CAPTAIN COOK. H5 Admiralty added such articles of. commerce, as were most likely to promote a friendly intercourse with the natives of the other hemisphere, and induce thtm to open a traffic with the English. ^ , Che Indian Omai, who has been mentioned in t*»e preceding voyagej was likewise to be carried back to his native country. It seems he left his friends in Lon- don with a mixture of regret and satisfaction. When he reflected on the kindnesses he had rcceived> he could not refrain from tears : but the pleasing idea of revisiting his original connections, soon made his eyes sparkle with jov. . ' • . The original voyage, from which our historical ac- aount is abstracted, being written in the words of Cap- tain Cook till his lamented death, and afterwards in those of Captain King, who published the whole, we have, for many strong reasons, pieferred giving tha narrative in the same person ; and we trust our readers will see the propriety and advantage of our determina- tion in this respect. Some general descriptit^ns are fur- nished by Mr. Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolu- tion, a man of distinguished abilities ; and to whose talents Captain Cook acknowledges himself much in- debted for many interesting parts of his voyage. Contrary winds, and other circumstances of little consequence, prevented the ships from clearing the Channeltill the 14th of July, i77Q. On board both vessels were one iumdred and ninety-two persons, officers included. Nothing material happened till the in of August, when we arrived olY Teneriiye, one of the Canaries, where several of the gentlemen latidedi i)i\ the 4th, we weighed anchor, and proceeded on our vo«»|/^;e. At nine o'clock in the evening of the iOth, we saw the Island of Bonavista, bearing souths distant iittit; more than a league; though, at this time, we thought ourselves much farther oiT; but this proved a mistake : for, at'ter hauling to the eastward till twelve o'clock, to clear the sunken* rocks that lie about a league from the south-east point of the island, w^^ found ourselves, at thur time, close upon them, ai^.d^ ml r : 146 VOYAGES OF did but just weather the breakers. Our situation, for a few minutes, was very alarming. I did not chuse to sound> as that might have heightened the danger, Without any possibility of lessening it. We had, for some days preceding the .6th of October, seen albatrosses, pintadoes, and other petereis j and now we saw three penguins, which occasioned us to sound 'f but we found no ground with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. On the 8ih, in the even- ing, one of those birds which sailors call noddies, settled on our rigging, and was caught. It was something larger than an English blackbird, and nearly as black, except the upper part of the head, which was white, looking as if it were powdered ; the whitest feathers growing out from the base of the upper bill, from which they gradually assumed a darker colour, to about the middle of the upper part of the neck, where the white shade was lost in the black, without being divided by any line, ft was web-footed, had black legs, and a long black bill. It is said, these birds never fly far from land. We knew of none nearer the sta- tion vve were in, than Cough's or Ilichmond's Island, froQi. which our distance could not be less than one hundred leagues. £ut it must be observed, that the Atlantic Ocean, to the southward of this latitude, has been but little frequented ; so that there may be more islands there than we are acquainted with. On the 18th of October we arrived at the Cape of Good Hope, and found in the bay two French East India ships; the one outward, and the other homeward bound. As soon as we had saluted, I went on shore, accompanied by some of my officers, and waited on the governor, the lieutenant-governor, the fiscal, and the commander of the troops. These gentlemen received nie with the greatest civility ; and the governor, in particular, promised me every assistance that the place alTorded. At the same time, I obtained his leave to set up our observatory ; to pitch tents for the sail- tT>-dkers and coopers ; and to bring the cattle on shore, to giaze near our ejicampm«nt. Before I returned on ^ CAPTAIN C60K. UT board, I ordered soft bread; fresh meat, and greens, to be provided, every day, for the* ship's company. Nothing remarkable happened tiii the evening of the 3 1st, when it began to blow excessively hard at south- east, and continued for ^ree days ; during which tinie there was no communication between the ship and the shore. The Resolution was the only ship in the bay that rode out the gale without dragging her anchoi^s. AVe felt its elTects as sensibly on shore. Our tents and observatory were torn to pieces ; and our astronomical quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. On the 3d of November the storm ceased. The Discovery having been detained some days at Plymoujth> after the Resolution, did not arrive here till the 10th. Captain Clerke informed me, that he had sailed from Plymouth on the 1st of August, and should have been with us here a week sooner, if the late gale of wind had not blown him oHT he coast. Upon the whole, he was seven days longer in his pas- sage from England than we had been. He had the misfortune to lose one of his marines, by f?i!ling over- board ; but there had been no other mortality amongst his people, and they now arrived well, and healthy. " - While the ships were getting ready, some of onr officers made an excursion into the neighbouring coun- try. Having given Captain Clerke a copy of my in- structions, and an order directing him how to proceed in case of separation, in the mornmg of the 30th v^e repaired on board. At five in the afternoon we weighed, and stood out of the bay. We steered'^ south-east course, with a very strong gale from the westward, followed by a mountainous sea, which made the ship roll and tumble exceedingly, and gave us a great deal of troubles to preserve ihe cattle we had on board. Notwithstanding all our care, several goats, tspecially the males, died ; and some sheep. Titis misfortune was, in a great measure, owing to the cold^ which we now began most^sensibly to feel. Nothing very interesting happened from the 5th of December till the i^dth of January, when they arrived N2 .,! J48 voYAQFs or at V^an Dicmen's ]jand ; whiere, as soon as thcfy hai anchored in Adventure 3ay, Captain Cook says, I or. di^red the boats to be hoisted out. in one of them I went myself, to look for the most commodious place for furnishing ourselves with the necessary supplies- and paptain Clerke went in his boat upon the same ser- vice. Next morning early, I sent lieutenant King ^ to the east side of the bay, with two parties, ope to cut -wood, and the other grass, under the protection of the marines. For although, as yet, none of the natives ; )iad appeared, there could be no doubt that some were in our neighbourhood* I also sent the launch for water; ^nd afterwards visited all the parties myself. In the even- . ing, we drew the seine at the head of the bay, and, .j^t one haul, caught a great quantity of fish. Most of I them wei*e of that sort known to seamen by the name » of elephant fish. in the afternoon, next day, we were agreeably sur- , prised, at the place where we were cutting wood, .with a visit from some of the natives ; eight men and a hoy. They approached us from the woods, without betraying any marks of fear; for none of them had any weapons, except one, who held in his hand a stick about two feet long, and pointed at one end. They were of common stature, but rathei slender. 1 heir skin was black, and also their hair, which w^s as woolly as that of any native of Guinea ; but they were not distinguished by remarkably thick lips, nor flat noses. On the contrary, their features were far from being disagref^able. Most of them had their hair and beards smeared with a red ointifnent ; and some had their faces also painted with the same composition. They received every present we made to them without the least appearance of satisfaction^ When some bread was given, as soon as they understood that it was to be eaten, they either returned it, or threw it away, with- out eyen tasting it. They also refused some elephant (ish, both raw and dressed, which we ofVijired tp them. But, upon giving them sonie birds, they d'd not return these, and easily made us comprehend that they were CAPTAIN (COOK. ' , • '$49 fond of such food, i had brought two pi^s on shore, with a view to leave them in ths woods. The instart't these came withiif their reach, they seized' them as a dog would have done, by the ears, and were^ for carrying them off immediately, with no other intei^tion^ as we could perceive, but to kill them. Being desirous of knowing the use of the stick which one of our visiters carried in his hand, I made signs to them to shew me; and so far succeeded, that one of them set up a piece of wood as a mark, and threw at it, at the distance of about twenty yards. But we had lirtle reason to commend his dexterity ; for, after re- peated trials, he was still very wide from the object. Omai, to shew them how much superior our weapons were to theirs, then tired his musket at it ; which alarmed them so much, that, notwithstanding ail we could do or say, they ran instantly into the woods. Thus ended our interview with the natives. Imme- diately after their final retreat, I ordered the two pigs, being a boar and a sow, to be carried about a mile within the woods, at the head of the bay. I saw them left there, by the side of • a fresh water brook. A young bull and a cow, and some sheep and goats, were also, at first, intended to have been left by me, as an additional present to Van J)iemen*s Land. But I soon laid aside all thought of this, from a persuasion that the natives, incapable of entering into my vie»vs of improving their country, would destroy them. 'i'he morning of the 29ih we had a dead calm, which continued all day, and effectually prevented our saiN ing. i therefore sent aparty over to the east point of the bay to cut grass^ and another to cut wood. I accompanied the latter. We had observed several of the natives, this morning, sauntering along the shorb, which assured us, that thougH their consternation had made them leave us so abruptly the day before, ihey were convinced that we intended them no mischief* and were desiroiis of renewing the intercourse. It was natural that I should wish to be present on the occa* lion. 150 VOYAGES OF - We h^d not been long landed, before about twenty of them, men and boys, joined us, without expressing the least sign of fe^r and distrust. There was one of ^his company conspicuously deformed ; and who was not more distinguishable by the hump on his back» than by the drollery of his gestures, and the seteming hu. Iiiour of his speeches, which he was very fond of ex- hibiting, as we supposed, for our entertainment. Hjs language appeared to me, to be diflferept from th^t spoKen by the inhabitants of the more northern parts of country, whom I met with in my first voyage j wliich is not extraordinary, since those we now saw, and those we then visited, dilTer in m^ny other respects. After staying about an hour with the wooding parly and the natives, 1 went over to the grass-cutters. Having seen the boats loaded, I returned on board to (iinner. Mr. Anderson, >vith his usual diligence, spent the few days we remained in Adventure Bay, in examining the country. His account of its natural productions, with which he favoured me, will more than compensate for my silence about them. The only animal of the quadruped kind we got, waj a sort of opossum, about twice the size of a large rat. Jt is of a dusky colour above, tinged with a brown or rusty cast, and whitish bplow. About a third of ^he tail, towards its tip, is white, and bare underneath, by which it probably hangs on the branches of treejt, as it climb^ these, ^nd lives on berries. The kangooroo, another animal found farther northward ii^ New Hol- Jand, without doubt, also inhabits here, as the native we met with had some pieces of theif skips ; and we several times saw an animal, though indistinctly, run from the thickets when we walked ip. the WQods, which, from the size, could be no other. 'f here are several sorts of hir^i, but all %o scarcp Qiici shy, that they are evidently harassed by the na- tive?, who, perhaps, draw much of their subsistence fro]T» them, in the woods, the principal sorts are large ii\'oyji\ hawks or eagles -, crowS| nearly the same as om 1 1 CAPTAIN COCK. 151 Ml England ; yellowish parroquets ; and large pigeon$. 'lliere are also three or four small birds, one of which is of the thrush kind. On the shore were several com- mon and sea-gulls ; a few black oyster-catchers, or se^- pies; and a pretty plover of a stone colour, with <| black hood. About the lake, behind the beach, a few wild ducks were seen ; and soipe shags used to perch upon the high leafless trees near the shore. The sea aiTords a much greater plenty, ^nj at leas( as great a variety as the land. Of these the elephant fish, or pejegallo, mentioned in Premier's Voyage, are the most numerous ; and though inferior to many other iish, were very palatable food. . Next in number, and superior in goodness, ^o the elephant fish, was a sort none of us recollected to have seen before : it partakes of the nature both of a round and of a flat fish, having the eyes placed very near each other j the fore part of the body very much flattened, or depressed, and the rest rouiided. It is of a brownish sandy colour, with rusty 9pots on the upper part, and below. From the quan- tity of slime it was always covered with, it seems tq jive after the manner of flat fish, at the bottom. Upon the rocks are plenty of muscles, and some other sm^ll shell-fish. There are also grea( numbers qf sea-stars ^ som^? small limpets ; and large q\iantities of sponge) one sort of which, that is thrown on shore by the sea, but not very compon, ha$ a most delicate tex- ture. At eight o'clock in the ^orning of the 30th of Jar nuary, a light breeze springing up at west, we >veighed anchor, and put to spa from Adventure Bay. We pursued our course to the eastward, without meeting with any thing worthy of note, till the night between the dth and 7th of February, when a marine b,e!onging to the Discovery fell overboard, and >vas never seem afterwards. On the 1 6th of fehruary, at four in the afternooi^, we discovered the land of New ^ealand ; and soon after came to an anchor in Queen Charlotte^s Sound. i^Jere several canoes, J&lled with natives, came along? ^ 1^ I I 152 VOYAGES OF ' ' side of the ships ; but very few tf them would venture on board ; which appeared the more extraordinary, as I was well known by them all. There was one man, in particular, amongst them< whom I had treated with remarkable kindness during the whole of my stay when 1 was last here. Yet now, neither professions of friend- ship, nor presents, could prevail upon him to come into the ship. This shyness was to be accounted for, only on this supposition, that they were apprehensive we bad revisited their country in order to revenge the death of Captain Furneaux's people. On the 13th we set up two tents, one from each ship, on the same spot where we had pitched them formerly, 'i'he observatories were at the same lime erected ; and Messrs. Kinsr and Bay ley began their operations immediately. During the course of this day, a great number of families came from diOerent parts of the coast, and took up their residence close to us ; so th^c there was i'lot a spot in the cove where a but could be put up, that was not occupied by them, except the place where we had fixed our little en- campment. Besides the natives who took up their abode close to us, we were occasionally visited by others of them, whose residence was not far olTj and by some who lived more remote. Their articles of commerce were, curiosities, fish, and women. The two first always came to a good market ; which the latter did not. The seamen had taken a kind of dislike to these peo- ple j and were either unwilling, or afraid, to associate with them ; which produced this good elTect, that I knew no instance of a man's quitting his station to go to their habitations. . *. Amongst our occasional visiters, was a chief named Kahoora, who, as 1 was informed, headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and himself killed Mr. Howe, the officer who commanded. To judge of the character of Kahopra, by what I had heard from many of his countrymen, he seemed to be mortii feared than beloved amongst them. Not sails'* CAPTAIN COOK. 153 fied wi^h telling me chat he was a very bad n:an, soipe of them even importuned me to kill him : and» 1 be- |;eve» they were not a Ijttle surprised that I did not listen to tnem ; for, according to their id«as of equity, thi'i ought to have been dope, ^ut If I had followed the advice of all our pretended friends, 1 might have extirpated the whole race ; for the peo^l^ of ea^h hamlet, or village^ by tums; applied to ine to destroy the other. On the J 6th, at day-break, I set out with a party pf men, in Hve boats, to collect food for our cattle. Cap-o tain Gierke, and several of the officers, Omai, and two of the natives, accompanied me. We proceeded about three leagues up the Sound, an(il thep lapded on the east side| at ? pl^ce where I had formerly been* Here we cut as much grass as loaded the two launches. As we returned down the JSoundi we visited Gras* Cove, the meipors^ble scene of the massacre of Cap- tain |!urneau;ic's people. Whilst we were at this place, our curiosity prompted us to enquire into the cxrcum- iVd'>:f< attending the melancholy fate of oi^r country- men ; and Omai was ipade use of as our interpreter for thjs purposp. The natives present, answered al| the questions that were put to them oa the subject without reserve, and like men who are undpr nq dread of punishment for a crime of which they are not guilty ; for we already knew that none of them had been con- cerned in the unhappy transaction. 1 hey told us, th^^ while our people were sitting ^t dinner, si^rrounded by several of thp native^, some of the letter stole, or snatched from th^m, fome bread and fjsh, for wnich they were beat. 1 his being resented, a quarrel en- sued; and two New ^ealanders \vere shot dead, by the only two muskets that wpre fired : for, bp(ore our people had time to discharge a third, or to Ic^d again those that had been fired, the natiyes rushed in upon thein^ overpowered them with thejr numb^rs^ and put theip all to death. % this time more than two- thirds of the inhabitants of tlie bound had settled themselves about us. Grc^t ^ 1 P'^jliisj'* r^ Vy. • 1.,, I 1) 1^4. VOYAGES of' numbers of them daily frequented the ships, while oiji people were there melting some seal blubber. No Greeii.l lander was ever fonder of' train-oil, than our friends here seemed to be. They relished the very skimmings of the kettle ; but a little of the pure stinking oil was a delicious feast. Having got on board as much hay and grass as we judged sufficient to serve the cattle till our arrival at Otaheite, and having completed the wood aiid water of both ships, on the ii4th we weighed an- 1 chor, and stood out of the cove. We had not been long at anchor near Motuara, be. I fore three or four canoes, filled with natives, came off) to us from the south-east side of the Sound; and a brisk trade was carried on with them for the curiosi'Jej of this pt.ice. In one of these canoes was Kahoora, leader of the party who cut off the crew of the Ad« venture's boat. This was the third time he had visited! us, without betraying the smallest appearance of fear.j Next morning, he returned again with his whole fa. mily, men, women, and children, to the number of| twenty, and upwards. Omai was the first ivho ac- quainted me with his being along-side the ship, and ! desired to know if he should ask him to come on board.] I told him he might ; and accordingly he introduced the chief into the cabin ; saying, ** There is Kahoora; kill iiim!*' He afterwards expostulated with me very earnestly, saying, ** Why do you not kill him ! You tell me, if a man kills another in England, that he is hanged for it. This man has killed ten, and yet you will not kill him ; though many of his countrymen de- sire it ; and it would be very good." Omai's argu- ments, though specious enough, having no weight mi\\ me, 1 desired him to ask the chief why he had killed Cp.ptain Furneaux*8 people ? At this question, Ka- • hoora folded his arms, hung down his head, and looked like one caught in a trap : aiid 1 firmly believe he ex- pected instant death. But no sooner was he assured of his safety, than he becime cheerful. He did not, however, seem willing to give me an answer to the i|uesnon that had been put to him, till 1 had, again and CAPTAIN COOK. 1.55 lactam, repeated my promise that he should not be hurt. 'jlien he ventured to tell u^, that one of his country- Lnea having brought a stone hatchet to barter, the maa tewhom it was oflfered, took it, and would neither re- Iturniti 9or give any thing for it ; on which the owner |of it snatched up the bread as an equivalent ; and then Ithe quarrel be^an. For some time before we arrived at New Zealand^ Omai had expressed a desire to tak-e one of the natives hvith him to hi« own country. We had not been there Imany days, before he had an opportunity of being gra- Itified in this ; for a youth, about seventeen or eighteen [years of age, named Taweiharooa, olTered to accom- Ipanj him. Finding that he was fixed in his resolution |to go with Uf, and having learnt that he was the only lion of a deceased chief, 1 told his mother that, in all Iprobability, he would never return; but this made no lirapression on either; for when she returned the next [morning, to take her last farewell of him, all the time [she was on board she remained quite cheerful, and iwent away wholly unconcerned. Another youth, about {ten years of age^ accompanied him as a servant, named [Kokoa; he was presented to me by his own father, [who stripped him, and left him naked as he was born ; lindeed, he seemed to part with him with perfect indit- Iference. On the 25th of February we sailed from New [Zealand, and had no sooner lost sight of the land, thavi lour two young adventurers repented heartily of the litepthey had taken. All the soothing encouragement jwc could think of, availed but little. They wept both lin public and private ; and made their lamentations in ja kind of song, which was expressive of their praisca |of their country. Thus they continued for many days ; ^M at length tneir native country and their friends were forgot, and they appeared to be as firmly attached fo us, as if they had been born amoi^gst us. On the 29th of March, as we were standing to the jorth-east, the Discovery made the signal of se«ing 'i'4t which we soon discovered to be an island of uo a, w w n I ii: I IBI'' l5d ' Voyages of great aextcnt. On approaching the shore, we coulj perceive with our glasses, that several of the natitti were armed with long spears and clubs, which they brandished in the air with signs of threatening; or, a^ some on board interpreted their attitudes, with invita^ tions to land. Most of them appeared naked, except having a sort of girdle, which, being brought up be! tween the thighs, covered that part of the body. JJut some of them had pieces of cloth, of different colours white, striped, or chequeredj which they wore as a gar.' ment thrown about their shoulders ; and almost all of them had a white wrapper about their heads, not much unhke a turban. They were of a tawny colour, and of a middling stature. At this time a smdll cdnoe was launched in a great hurry from the further end of the beach, and putting off with two men, paddled towards us, when 1 brought to. They stopped short, however, as if afraid to ap- proach, until Omai, who addressed them in the Ota- heitean language, in some measure, quieted their ap- prehensions. I'hey then came near enough to take some beads and nails, which were tied to a piece of wood, and thrown into the canoe. Omai, perhaps im- properly, put the question to them, whether they ever eat human flesh ? which they answered in the negative, with a mixture of indignation and abhorrence. One of them, whose name was Mourooa, being asked how he came by a scar on his forehead, told us that it was the consequence of a wound he had got in fighting with the people of an island which lies to the north*east\vard, who sometimes came to invade them. They afterwards took hold of a rope. Still, however, they would not venture on board. We now stood off and on ; and as soon as the ships were in a proper station, 1 ordered two boats to sound the coast, and to endeavour to find a landing-place. With this view, I went in one of them myself, taking with me such articles to give the natives, as 1 thought might serve to gain their good-will. I had no sooner put oiX from the ship, tlian the canoe with the (vvo »en^ CAPtAIN COOK. TSt wlilch had not left us long before, paddled towards my boat ; and, having come along-side^ Mourooa stepped into her, without being asked, and without a moment's hesitation 4 Omai, who was with me, was ordered to eoquire of him where we could land ; and he directed us to two drflferent places. But 1 saw, with regret, that the attempt could not be ifiade it either place, unless at the risk of having our boats filled with water, er even staved to pieces. Nor were we more fortu- nate in our search for anchorage ; for we could find no bottom lill within a cablets length of the breakers. While we were thus employed in reconnoitring the shore, great numbers of the natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed. Mourooa, who was now in my boat, probably thinking that this warlike appear- ance hindered us from landing, ordered them to retire back. As many of them complied, I judged he must be a person of some consequence among them. Indeed, if we understood him right, he was the king's brother* ho great was the curiosity of several of them, that they took to the water, and swimming off to the boats, eame on board them without reserve. Nay, we found it difficult to keep them out ; and still more difficult to prevent them carrying off every thing they could lay their hands upon. At length, when they perceived that we were returning to the ships, they all left us, except our original visitor, Mourooa. lie, though not vviihoiu evident signs of fear, kept his place in my boat, and accompanied me on board the ship. 'ilie cattle, and other new objects, that presented themselves to him there, did not strike him witii so much surprise as one might have expected. Perhaps his mind was too much taken up about his own safety, lo allow him to attend to other things. 1 could get but little new information from him j and therefore, after he had made a short stay, 1 ordered a boat to earry him in toward the land. As soon as he got out of the ptd» looked at it, and asked Omai whai bird ihia was : and I Pi ^Si 158 VOYAGES OF not receiving an immediate answer from him, 'he re- peated the question to some of the people upon deck. 'J'he boat having conveyed him pretty near to the surf, he leaped into the sea, and swam on shore. He had no sooner landed, thah the multitude of his countrymen gathered round him, as if with an ea[;;er curiosity to learn from him what he had seen j and in this situation they remained when we lost sight of them. After leaving Mangeea, as this island was called, on the afternoon of the 30th, we continued our course northward all that night, and till noon on the 3 1st, when we again saw land, in the direction of north-east by north, distant eight or ten leagues ; and next morn- ing we got abreast of its north end. I sent three armed boats to look for anchoring-ground, and a landing-place. In the mean time we plyed up under the island with the ships; Just as the boats were putting olT, we observed several single canoes coming from the shore. They went first to 'the Discovery, she being the nearest ship. It wis not long after, when three of the canoejcame along-side of the Resolution, each conducted by one man. They wefe long ai.ch of plantains as a present to me ; asking for me by name, having learnt It from Omai, who was sent before us in a boat, with Mr. Gore, in return for this civility, 1 gave him an axe, and a piece of red cloth ; and ne paddled back 10 the shoi'e well satisfied. 1 afterwards understood CAPTAIN COOK, 15t> from Omai, that this present had been sent from the kiogf or principal chief of the island* Not long after a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came towards us. As. they drew near the ship, they recised some words in concert, by way of chorus, one of shcit number hrst standing up, and giving the word before each repetition. When they had finished their solemn chant, they came along-side, and asked for the chief. As soon as 1 shewed myself, a pig, and a few cocoa-nuts, were conveyed up into the ship ^ and the principal person in the canoe made me ? i additional present of a piece of matting. Our visitors were conducted into the cabin, and to other parts of the ship. Some objects seemed to strike them with a degree of surprise ; but nothing fixed their attention for a moment. They were afraid to come near the cov/s and horses ; nor did they form the least conception of their nature. But the sheep and goats did not surpass the limits of their ideas; for they gave mto understand, that they knew them to be birds. I made a present to my new friend, qf what 1 thought might be most acceptable to him ; but, on his going away, he seemed rather disappointed than pleased. 1 afterwards understood that he. was very desirous of obtaining a dog, of which animal .this island could not boast. . • . . ' > boon after day-break,, wp observed some canoes coming od to the ships, and one of them directed its course to the Resolution. In it was a hog, with some pbntains and cocoa-nuts, for which the people who brought them demanded a dog from us, and refused every other thing that we ofl'ered in exchange. To gratify these people, Omai parted with a favourite dog he had brought from England ;. and with this acquisition' they departed highly satistied. 1 dispatched Lieutenant Gore with three boats, two from the Resolution, and one from the Discovery. l\vo of the natives, who had been on board, accompanied him, and Omai went with him in his boat as an inter- preter. The ships being a full league from the island 02 mmm jSK^m! 1' i IP |;^ ^J MMiHS^mBi 4 ■ B^HBii'J #i N 3} ■# i 'I I I lllli'l 160 VOYAGES op when the boats put off, it was noon before we could work up to it. VVe then observed a prodigious number of ihe natives abreast of the boats, in order to observe their motions^ and to be ready to give such assistance as our people might want, i kept as near the shore as was prudent. Some of the islanders now and then came off to the ships in their canoes, with a few cocoa-nut^ which they e?:changed for whatever was offered to them. On going on shore, Omai was asked, by the natives, a great many questions concerning us ; and, according to the account he gave me, his answers were not « little upon the tnarvelious. As for instance, he toid them, tnat our country had ships as large as their island • on board which were instruments of w^r of such di- mensions, that several people might sit within them j and that one of them was sufficient to crush the whole island at one shot. This led them to enquire of him, what sort of guns we actually had in our two ships. He said, that though they were but small, in comparison with those he had just described, yet, with such as they were, we could, with the greatest ease, and at the distance the ships were from the shore, destroy the island, and kill every soul in it. They persevered in their enquiries, to know by wh4t* means this could be {done; and Omai explained the matter as well as he could. He happened luckily to have a few cartridges in his pocket. I'hese he produced ; the balls, and the gunpowder which was to set therri in motion, were sub- mitted to inspection ; and, to supply the defects of hit description, an appeal was made to the senses of the spectators. In the centre of a circle formed by the na- tives, the inconsiderable quantity of gunpowder, col? iected from his cartridges, was properiy> disposed upon the ground, and, by means of a bit of buniiug wood from the oven, where dinner was dressing, 5;et on fire. I'he sudden blast, and loud report, the mingled Hame and sinpke, that instantly succeeded, now filled the W^ok assembly with ^astonishment ^ they i^o lon^'cr CAPTAIN COOK. 161 doubted the tremendous power of our weapons, and gave full credit to all t!iat Omai had said. Omai found three ot his countrynnen herej their story i» an affecting one, as related by him. About twtnty persons had embarked on board a canoe at Ota- beite, to cross over to the neighbouring island Ulieta. A violent contrary wind arising, they could neither reach the latter, nor get back to the former. Their in- tended passage being a very short one, their stock of provisions was scanty, and soon exhausted. The hard- ships they suftertd, while driven along by the storrri, are not to be conceived. 1 hey passed many days with- out sustenance. 1 heir numbers gradually diminished, worn out by famine and fatigue. Four only survived, when the canoe overset. However, they kept hangr ing by the side of the vessel, till Providence brought them in sight of the people of this island, who imme- d ately sent out canoes, and brought them on shore. Of the four, one was since dead. The other three, still living, spoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with. And so well satisfied were they with their situation, shat they refused the offer made to them by our gentlemen, as Omai's request, of giving ibem a passage on board our ships, to restore them to t^ ^\r native islands. With a gentle breeze at east, we got up with Wateeoo on the 3d of April, and I immediately dis- patched Mr. Gore, with two boats, to endeavour to procure some food for our cattle. As there seemed to be no inhabitants here to obstruct our taking away whatever we might think proper, our boats no sooner reached the west side of the island, but they ventured in, and Mr. Gore and his party got safe on shore. The tupply obtamed here, consisted of about a hundred cocoa-nuts lor each ship ^ we also got fur our cattle some grass, and a quantity of the leaves and branches of young cocoa-trees, and of the wharra tree, as it is called at Gt iheite. The only birds seen here, were a beautiful ci'ckoo, of a chesnut brown, veriegated with black, which was shot. And upon the shore^ some 03 ■ViMNI m 11 ''5 ■ l§2 VOYAGES OF legg-birds ; a small sort of curlew ; blue and whiit herons ; and great numbers of noddies. One of o^f people caught a lizard* of a most forbidding aspect, though small, running up a tree ^ and many of another «ort were seen. Though there were, at this lime, no fixed inhabit tants upon the island, indubitable marks remained of its being, at least, occasionally frequented. In parti<» cular, a few empty huts were found. In one of them, Mr. Gore left a hatchet and some nails, to the full value of what we took away» As soon as the boats were hoisted in, I made sail again to the northward. Although Hervey's Island, discovered in 1773, was not above fifteen leagues distant, yet we did not get sight of it till dayJ)reak in the morning. As we drew near it, we observed several canoes put off towards the ships. There were from three to six men in each of them. They stopped at the distance of about a stone's throw from the ship ; and it was some time before Omai could prevail upon them to come along-side : but nu entreaties could induce any of them to venture on board. Indeed, their disorderly and clamorous behaviour, by no means indicated a disposition to trust us, or treat ut well. We afterwards learnt, that they had attempted to take some oais out of the Discovery's boat that lay along-side, and struck a man who endeavoured to pre- vent them. They also cut away, with a shell, a net with meat, which hung over that ship's stern, and ab^ soliwely refused to restore it ; though we alterwardj purchased it of them. Those who were about our (hip, behaved in the same daring manner. At the same ti^ne, they immediately shewed a knowledge of bartering, and sold some fish they had for small nails, of which they were immoderately fond, and called them goor^. But they caught, with the greatest avidity, bits of p^per^ or any thing else that was thrown to them. Ihese people seemed to differ as much in person, at in disposition, from the natives of Wateeoo ; though ^lie distance between the two islands k not very great. CATl AIN C«OK. IftJ llt'ir colour was of a deeper cast ; and several had a fiercCj rugged aspect, resembling the natives of New inland. I'he shell of a pearl oyster^ polished, hung 2ix}ut the neck, was the only personal decoration that we observed amongst them ; for not one of them had adopted that mode of ornament, so generally prevalent amongst the natives of this ocean, of puncturing, or tatooing, their bodies. Though singular in this, we had the most unequivocal proofs of their being of the same common race. Their language approached still nearer to the dialect of Otaheite than that of Wateeoo or Mangeea. Having but very little wind, it was one o'clock be- fore we drew near the north-west part of the island ; when 1 sent Lieutenant King, with two armed boats, to sound and reconnoitre the coast, while we stood oiF aod un with the ships. At three o'clock, the boats re- turned J and Mr. King informed me, that there was no anchorage for the ships ; and that the boats could only land on the outer edge of the reef, which lay about a quarter of a mile from the dry land. He said, that a number of the natives came down upon the reef, armed with long pikes and clubs. But as he had no motive to land, he did not give them an opportunity to use them. If I had been so fortunate as to have procured a sup- ply of water, and of grass, at any of the islands we bad lately visited, it was my purpose to have stood back to the south, till I had rnet with a westerly wind. But the certain consequence of doing this, without juch a supply, would have been the loss of all the cat- tle, before we could possibly reach Otaheite, without gaining one advantage with regard to the great object of our voyage. 1 therefore determined to bear away for the Friend 'y Islands, where I was sure of meeting with abundance of every thing I wanted, April the 7 th, I steered west by south, with a fine breeze easterly. 1 proposed to proceed first to Mid- dleburgh, or Eooa ; thinking, if the wind continued t^vourabk; that we had food enough on board for th« I I c tmrn I* if 'I > w(l \ '!! Ill I 'i 1' i'lii !64 • VOYAGES OP cattle to last till we should reach that island. But about noon, nejct day, those iaint breezes, that had at* tended and retarded us so long, again returned; and I found it necessary to haul more to the north, to get into the latitude of Palmerston's and Savage IslamU discovered in 1774, during my last voyage, that, if necessity required it, we might have recourse to them. At length, at day-break, on the 13th, we saw Pal. merston's Island, distant about five lea^'*es. However, we did not get up with it till eignt o'clock the next morning. 1 then sent four boats, with an officer Iq each, to search the coast for the most convenient land- ing-place. The boats first examined the south eastern* most part, and failing there, ran down to the east, where we had the satisfaction to see them land. This place is not inhabited. About one o'clock, one of the boats came on board, laden with scurvy-grass and young coa-nut trees, which at this time was a feast for the cattle. Before evening, 1 went en shore in a small boat, accompanied by Captain Gierke. We found every body hard at M'ork, and the landing-place to be in a small creek. Upon the bushes that front the sea, or even farther in, we found a great number of men-of-war birds, tropic birds, and two sorts of boobies, which at this time were laying their eggs, and. so tame, that they suffered us to take them off with our hands. A^ one parr of the reef, which looks into, or bounds, the lake that is within, there was a large bed of coral, almost even \yith the surface, which afforded, perhaps, one of the most enchanting prospects that Nature has any Where produced. Its base was fixed to the shore, but reached so far in, that it could not be seen ; so that it seemed to be suspended in the water, which deepen- ed so suddenly, that, at the distance of a few yards, there might be seven or eight fathoms. The sea was, at this time, quite unrufiled ; and the sun shining bright, exposed the variojs sorts of coral, in the most beautiful order. This scene was enlivened by numer- ous species of fishes gliding along in apparent security. CAPTAIN Ct)dK. IQ*> There were no signs of inhabitants having ever been bere; if >ve except a small piece of a canoe that was found upon the beach, which, probably, might have drift • ed from some other island. After the boats were Jaden, I returned on board, leaving Mr. Gore, with a party, to pass the night on shore, in order to be ready to go to work early the next morning. That day was accordingly spent, as the preceding one had been, in collecting food for the cattle, riaving got a sufficient supply by sunset, I or- dered every body on board. But having little or no wind, I determined to wait, and to employ the next day in trying to get some cocoa-nuts from the next island, where we could observe that those trees were in much greater abundance than wliere we had already landed. With this view I went ^ith the boats to the west side of the islandi and landed with little difficulty ; and immediately sec the people to gather cocoa-nuts, which we found in great abundatice. Omai, who was vitb me, caught with a scoop net, in a very short time, as much fish as served the whole party on shore for dinner, besides sending some to both ships. Here were also great abundance of birds, particularly men- of-war and tropic birds ; so that we fared sumptuously. And it is but doing justice to Omai to say« that, in these excursions, he was of the greatest use ; for he not only caught the fish, but dressed these, and the birds we killed, in an oven, with heated stones, after the fashion of his country, with ^ diextisrity and good humour that did him great credit. We found this islet larger thaii the other> and almost entirely covered with cocoa palms. A young turtle had been lately thrown on shore here, as it was still full of maggots. We found some scorpions, a few insects, and a great number of fish upon the reefs. 1 he heat, wiiich had been great for about a m<^nth, became now much more disagreeable, from the close rainy weather; and, froti) the moisture attending it, threatened soon to be noxious. However, it is remarkable enough, ihat though the only refreshment we had received $inc€ r'-'j Kii';^;,i|,:«i i\ M ^! i! 136 VOYAGES OP leaving the Cape of Good Irlope, was that at New Zealand, there was not, yet, a single person on board sick, from the constant use of salt food, or vicissitude of climate. in the night between the 24th and !25tb, we passed Savage Island, which I had discovered in 1774. I steered for the south, and then hauled up for Anna- mooka. It was no sooner day-light, than we were vi- sited ^by six or seven canoes from different islandij^ bringing with them, besides fruits and roots, two pigs, several fowls, some large wood-pigeons, small rails, and large violet-coloured coots. All these they exchanged with us for beads, nails, hatchets, &c. They had also other articles of commerce ; but I ordered that ho cu- riosities should be purchased till the ships should be supfiilied with provisions, and leave given for that pur? pose'. Knowing, also, from experience, that, if all our people might trade with the natives, accordmg to their own caprice, perpetual quarrels would ensue, I ordere4 that particular persons should manage the traffic both on board and on shore, prohibiting all others to inter- fere. Before mid-day, Mr. King, who had been sent to KomangOy returned with seven hogs, some fowls, ^ quantity of fruit and roots, and some grass for the cattle. His party was very civilly treated at Komango. The inhabitants did not seem to be numerous; and their huts, which stood close to each other, with'uia plantain walk, were but indifferent. Kot far from them was a pretty large pond of fresh water, tolera- bly good ; but there was no appearance of any stream. With Mr. King came on board the chief of the island, named Tooboulangee ; and another, whose name was Taipa. They brought with them a hog, as a present to me, promising more the next day ; and they kept their word. I now resumed the very same station which I had occupied when 1 visited Annamooka three years before^ and, probably, almost in the same place where Tasr many the first discoverer of this, and some of the neighbouring islands^ anchored in IQ^3, The following CAPTAIN COOK. 167 jay I ^vent on shore^ accompanied by Captain Gierke. Toobou, the chief of the island^ conducted me and Omai to his house. We found it situated on a pleasant ipot, in the centre of his plantation. While we were on shore, we procured a few hogs and some fruit, by bartering ; and before we got on board again, the ships were crowded with natives. Few of them coming empty-handed^ every necessary refreshment was now ifl the greatest plenty. I landed again in the afternoon, v'ith a party of marines ; and, at the same time, the horses, and such of the cattle as were in a weakly state, were sent on shore. Every thing being settled to my satisfaction, I returned to the ship at sun-set> leaving the command upon the island to NJr. King. Next day, May 3d, our various operations on shore began, in the morning, before the natives retired from our post, Taipa harangued them for some time. We could only guess at the subject ; and judeed^ that he was instructing them how to behave towards us, and encouragine them to bring the produce of the island to market. We experienced the good effects of his.elo- 3ueuce in the plentiful supply of provisions which, next ay, we received. On the 6th, we were visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose name was Feenou, and whom Taipa was pleased to introduce to us as king of all the Friendly Isles. All the natives paid their obeisance to him, by bowing their heads as low as his feet, the soles of which they also touched with each hand, first with the palm, and then with the back part. There could be little rcom to* suspect that a per- son, received with so much respect, could be any thing less than the king. In the afternoon, 1 went to pay. this great man a visit, having first received a present of two fish from him, brought on board by one of his ser- vants. As soon as I landed, he came up to me. He appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had more of the European features than any 1 had yet seen here. After a short stay, our new vi- sitor, and five or six of his attendants, accompanied nie on board. I ^ave suitable presents to tUem all> and (; I: Pi f i I- It !* y? I' ri ,i| ?.d3 VOYAGES dF entertained them in such a mannv^r as I thought would be most agreenhle. In the even'ng I attended thtm on shore in my boat, into which the chief ordered three hogs to be put, as a return for the presents he had re- ceived from me. The first day of our arrival at Annamooka, one of the natives had stolen, out of the ship, a large junk axe. 1 now applied to Feenou, who was my guest on the 8th, to exert his authority to get it restored to me- ai;d so impiicity was he obeyed, tha; it was brought on board while we were at dinner. These people gaveuj very frequent opportunities of remarking what expert thieves they wtre : even some of the chiefs did not think this profession beneath them. On the lower class a flogging seemed to make no greater impression than lit would have done upon the mainmast. When any of thera happened to be caught in the act, their superiors, far from interceding for them, would often advise us to kill them. As this was a punishment we did not chuse to inflict, they generally escaped without any punish- ment at all. Captain Clerke, at last, hit upon a mode of treatment, which, we thought, h id some effect. He put them under the hands of the barber, and com. pletely ,%haved their heads ; thus pv' nting them out a! objects of ridicule to their countrymen, and enabling •ur people to deprive them of future opportunities for a repetition of their rogueries, by keeping them at a distance. Frcenou, understanding that I meant to proceed di- 1 rectly to Tongataboo, importuned me strongly to alter this plan, to which he expressed as much aversion as if he had some particular interest to promote by diverting me from it. in preference to it, he warmly recommended an island, or rai.er a group of islands, called llapaeej lying to the north-east. There, he assured us, we could be supplied plentifully with every refreshment in the easiest manner ; and, to add weight to his advice, he engngcd to a. tend us thilhjr in person. He canieill his point with me ; and IJapaee was made choice of fori tur next stationt As it had never been visited by an/l CAPTAIN COOK. 16^ European ships, the examination of it became an object with me. After some unimportant transactions, at day-break, in the mornirg of the 1 6th, we steered north-east for Hapaee, which was now in sight. Next day we came to anchor. By this time the ships were filled with the natives. They brought from the shore, hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged ibr hatchet*, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. 1 went on shore, ac- companied by Omai and Feenou, landing at the north part of Lefooga, a little to the right of the ship** station, The chief conducted me to a hut, situated close to the sea-beach, which I had seen brought thither, but i few minutes before, for our reception. In this Feenou, Omai, and myself, were seated. The other chiefs, and the multitude, composed a circle, on the outside, fronting us ; and they also sat down. I was then asked, how long 1 intended to stay ? On my say- ing, five days, Taipa was ordered to come and sit by me, and proclaim this to the people. He then ha- rangued them, in a speech mostly dictated by i'eenou. The purport of it, as 1 learnt from Omai, was, that. *thcv were all, both old and young, to look upon me as la friend, who intended to remain with them a few days; that, during my stay, they must not steal any thing, nor molest me any other way ; and that it was [expected, they should bring hogs, fowls, fruir, Sec. to lilhe ships, where they would receive, in exchange for them, such and such things, which he enumerated. Taipa then took occasion to signify to me, that it was Accessary 1 should make a present to the chief of the sland, whose name vvas Earoupa. I was not unpre- pared for this ; and gave him such articles as far exceed- M his expectation. My liberality to him brought upon le demands, of the same kind, from two chiefs oi tlier isles who were present r 'and from Taipa himself. After viewing the watciing-placc, we retium d to ir former station, where 1 found a baked hog, and [me yams, smoftking hot, ready to be carried on )ard for my dinner. I invited Feenou, and his friends. ■^1 A n ttfiT" ' iffm li ':~i "^ yv > i 170 VOYAGES OP to partake of it ; and we embarked for the ship ; b^ none but himself sat down with us at the table. Afier dinner, I conducted them on shore ; and, before I re- turned on board, the chief gave me a fine large turtle ^nd a quantity of yams. Our supply of provisions was copious; for, in the course of the day, we got, by barter, along-side the ship, about twenty small hogs besides fruit and roots, ^fext morning early, Feenou and Omai, who scarcely ever quitted the chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The object of the visit was, to require my presence upon the island where 1 saw a large concourse of people already as- sembled. I guessed that something more than ordinary was in agitation ; but could not tell what, nor could Omai inform me, . . , I had not long been landed, before near a hundred of the natives appeared in sight, and advanced, laden with yams, bread-fruit, plantains, cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes. They deposited their burthejis, in two heaps, or piles, upon our left. Soon after arrived a number of others, bearing the same kind of articles, which were collected into two piles upon the right. To these were tied two pigs and six fowls; and to those upon the left, six pigs and two turtles. As soon as this muniticent collection of provisions was laid down in order, and disposed to the best ad- vantage, the bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Presently after a number of men entered this circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs, made of the green branches ol the cocoa-nut tree. These paraded about for a few minutes, and then retired ; the one half to one side, and the other half to the other side, seating themseivei before the spectators. Soon after, they successively entered the lists, and entertained us with single com- bats. One champion, rising up, and stepping forward from one side, challenged those of the other side, by expressive gestures, more than by words, to send one of their body to oppose him. If the ^ge was ac- cepiedi which was generally the cas^i thetwo(9ni^ caVtain cook. 171 batanlj put themselves in prop^^r attitudes^ and then began the engagement, which continued till one or oiher owned himself conquered, or till their weapons ^erc broken. As soon as each combat was over, the fictor squatted himself down facing the chief, then rose up, ind retired. At the same time, some old men, who seemea to sit as judges, gave their plaudit in a few words ; and the muliitude, especially those on the side to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory lie had acquired, in two or three huzzas. This entertainment was now and then suspended for a few minutes. During these intervals there were twth wrestling and boxing matches. The first were performed in the same manner as at Otalheite ; and the second differed very little from the method practised iii England. But what struck us with the most surpise was, to see a couple of lusty wenches Step forth, and begin boxing, without the lest ceremony, and with as much art as the men. This contest, however, did not last above half a minute, before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the same ap- plause from the spectators, which they bestowed upoa the successful combatants of the other sex. We ex- pressed some dislike at this part of tHe entertainment ^ which, however, did not prevent two other females from entering the lists. 1 hey seemed to be girls of spirit, and would certainly have given each other a good drubbing, if two old women had not interposed to part th^m. AH these combats were exhibited in the midst ol at least three thousand people, and were conducted with the greatest good humour on all sides. As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me, that the 1/eaps of provisions on our right hand were a present to Omai ; and that those on our left hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity, were given to me. He added, that 1 might take them on board whenever it was convenient ; but that there would be no occasion to set any of our people as guards over them, as I might be ..ssured, that not a single cocoa-nut would be taken away bv the iiatives. So it F2 ' _J± Hi' I r+ M \1Q „ ,, tj . ,• i VOYAGES or proved ; for I left every thing behind, .'iiid returned to the ship to dinner, carrying the chief with me; and when the provisions were reniovcii on board in the afternoon, not a single article was missing. 1 here was as much as loaded four boats ; and [ could not but be struck with the munificence of Feenou j for this pre- sent far exceeded any I had ever received from any of the sovereigns of the various islands 1 had visited in the Pacific Ocean. I lost no time in convincing our friend, that I was not insensible of his liberality ; for, before he quitted my ship, 1 bestowed upon him such of my commodities, as, 1 guessed, were most valuable in his estimation. Feenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go through the military exercise. As 1 was desirous to gratify bis curiosity, I ordered them all on shore, from both ships, in the morning. After they had performed various evolutions, and fired several vollies, with which the numerous body of spectators seemed well pleased, the chief entertained us, in his turn, with an exhibition, which, as was acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactness, far surpassing the spe- cimen we had given of cur military mancEuvres. It was a kind of a dance, so entirely different from any thing I had ever seen, that I fear, 1 can give no de^ Bcription that will convey any tolerable idea of it to my readers. It was performed by men ; and one hun- dred and five persons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his hand an instrument neatly made, shaped somewhat like a paddle, of two feet and a half in length, with a small handle, and a thin blade; so that ihey were very light. With these instrument, they made many apd various flourishes, each of which was acpompanied with a dilVerent movement. At first, the performers ranged themselves in thiee lines; and by various evolutions, each man changed his station in such a manner, that those who had been in the reac came into the front, Nor did they remain long in the same position. At one time, they extended themselves in one line j they thei> formed into a semicircle ; and CAPTAIN CQOK. 17.'> lastly Into two square columns. While this last movei incni was executing, one of them advanced, and per-» furined an antic dance before me; with which the whole ended. The musical instruments consisted of two drums, or rather two hollow logs of wood, from which some va- ried notes were produced, by beating on rhem with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me, that the dancers were much assisted by these sounds, but by a chorus of vocal music, in which all the performers joined at the same time. Their song was not destitute ot pleasing melody ; and all their corresponding motions were executed with ?o much skill, that the- numerous body of dancers seemed to act as if they were one great machine. It was the opinion of every one of us, that such a performance would have met with universal applause on an £uropean theatre ; and it so far exceed- ed any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they seemed to pique themselves upon the superiority they had over us. As to our musical instruments, they held none of them in the least esteem, except the drum : and even that they did not think equal to their own. 1ft order to give them a more favourable opinion of English amusements, and to leave their minds fully impressed with the deepest sense of our superior at- tainments, I directed some fire-works to be got ready ; and, after it was dark, played them off in the presence of Feenou, the other chiefs, and a vast concourse of their people. Our water and sky-rockets, in particular, pleased and astonished them beyond all conception ; and the Stale vas now turned in our favour. This, howeve •, seemed only to furnish them with an ad- ditional motive t:o proceed to fresh exertions of their very si.j^uiar dexterity; and our fire-works were no sooner ended, than a succession of dances began. As a prelude to them, a band of music, or chorus of eighteen men, seated themselves before us, in the cen- tre of the circle. Four or five of this band had piece* of large bamboo, from three to five or six feet lone ; P3 ' '1 ' i ' I*' ' ! I* "i. i f",; i!?: J74 VOYAGES OF the upper end open, but the other end closed by one of the joints. With this close end, the performers keni constantly striking the ground, though slowly, thus producing different notes, according to the different lengths of the instruments, but all of them of the hoj. low base sort ; to counteract which, a person icept striking quickly, and with two sticks, a piece of the same substance, split, and laid along the ground, and by that means, furnishing a tone as acute as those pro! duced by the others were grave. I'he rest of the band, as well as those who performed upon the bam- boos, sung a slow and soft air, which so tempered the harsher notes of the above instruments, that no bye- stander, however accustomed to hear the most perfect and varied modulation of sweet sounds, could avoid confessing the vast power, and pleasing effect, of this simple harmony. Soon after they had finished, nine women exhibited themselves, and sat down I'ronting the hut were the chief was. A man then rose, and struck the first of these women on (the back with both fists joined, tie proceeded in the same manner to the second and third j but when he came to the fourth, whether from ac- cident, or design, I cannot tell, instead of the back, he struck her on the breast. Upon this a person rose instantly from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the head ; and he was carried off without the least noise or disorder. But this did not save the other five women from so odd a discipline, or perhaps necessary ceremony ; for a person succeeded him, who treated them in the same manner. Their disgrace did not end here ; for when they danced, they had the mortification to find their performance twice disapproved of, and were obliged to repeat it. Curiosity, on both sides, being now sufficiently gra- tified, by the exhibition of the various entertainments J have described, 1 began to have time to look about me. Accordingly, next day 1 took a walk into the island pf Leefooga, of vvhiph I was desirous to obtaiR fume knowledge, i found it to be> in several respe^t'j CAPTAIN COOK. ^ 175 superior to Annamooka. The plantations were nfiore numerous, aod more extensive. We observed large spots covered with the paper mulberry-trees : and the plantations, in general, were well stocked with such roots and fruits as are the natural produce of the island. To these I made some addition, by sowing the seeds of Indian corn» melons, pumpkins, and the like. Ihe island is not above seven miles long ; and, in iome places, not above two or three broad. The east side of it, which is exposed to the trade wind, ha* a reef, running to a considerable breadth from it, on which the sea breaks with great violence. When 1 returned from my excursion into the coun- try, 1 found a large sailing canoe fast to the ship's stern. In this canoe was l^atooliboula, whom I had seen at 'Jongataboo during my last voyage, and who was then supposed by us to be the king of that island. He sat in the canoe with all that gravity by which he was so remarkably distinguished at. that time; nor could 1, by any entreaties, prevail upon him now to come into the ship. Many of the islanders were present j and they all called him Arekee, which signifies king. I had never heard any one of them give this title to Feenou, however extensive his authority over them, both here and at Annamooka, had appeared to be ; which had» all along, inclined me to suspect that he was not the king; though his friend, Taipa^ had taken pains to make me believe he was. Feenou was on board my jhip at the same time ; but neither of these great men took the least notice of each other. In the morning of the 23d, as we were going to un- moor, in order to leave the island, Feenou, and his prime-minister, I'aipa, cam© along-side in a sailing canoe, and informed me, that they were setting out for Vavaoo, an island, which, they said, lies about two days sail to the northward of Hapaee, The object of their voyage, they would have me believe, was to gee for me ai; additional supply of hogs, and some red feathered caps for Omai^ to carry to Otaheite, where ihQy are in high esteem. Feenou assured me, thai he i ^ IT n^ 1 i . Lrf "1 Ti * ' r'l . >' '■■ a ' 1' w4 ^ 176 VOYAGES OF ^ should be back in four or five days ; and desired me not to sail till his return, when he promised he would accompany me to Tongataboo. I thought this a good opportunity to get some J^nowledg^ of Vavaoo, and- proposed to him to go thither with' the ships j but he seemed not to approve of the pla»; and, by way of diverting me from it, told me^ that there was neither harbour nor anchorage about it. I therefore -consented to wait, in my present station^ for his return \ and he immediately set but. In my walk, oti the 25th, I happened to «tep into a house, where I found a vvoman shaving a child's head with a shark's tooth, stuck into the end of a piece ot stick. 1 observed that she first wetted the hair with a' rag dipped in water, applying her instrument to that part which she had previously soaked. The operation seemed to give no pain to the child ; although the hair was takien of as close as if one of our razors had been employed. Encouraged by what I now saw, I soon after tried one of those singular instruments upon my- self, and found it to be an excellent siiccedaneum. However, the men of these islands have recourse to another contrivance when they shave their beards. The operation is performed with two shells ; one of which they place under a small part of the beard, and with the other, applied above, they scrape that part oit. In this manner they are able to shavB very close. The process is, indeed, rather tedious, but not painful; and there are men amongst them who seem to profess this trade. It was as common, while we were here, to see our sailors go on shore to have their beards scraped off, after the fashion of JHapaee, as it was to see their chiefs come on board to be shaved by our barbers. Finding that little or nothing of the produce of the island was now brought to the spips, I resolved to change our station, and in the afternoon of the 2(3th of May, 1 hauled into a bay that lies between the south end of Lefooga and the north end of Hoolaiva, and there anchored. Mear the south end of th« Island of CAPTAIN COOK. 177 Lefooga, we met with an artiticial mount. From the jiie of some trees that were growing upon it, and from other appearances, 1 guessed that it had been raised in remote times. I judged it to be about forty feet high ; and the diameter of its summit measured fifty feet, At the bottom of this mount stood a stone, which must have been hewn otf coral rock, it was four feet broads two and a half thick, and fourteen high ; and we were told by the natives present, that not above half itf length appeared above ground. They called it Tan- gata Arekee, and said, that it had been set up, and the mount raised, by some of their forefathers, in me* mory of one of their kings ; but hew long since they could not tell. About noon, a large sailing canoe came under ouf . stern, in which was a person named Futtafaihe, or Foulaho, or both ; who, as the natives then on board told us, was king of Tongataboo, and of all the nejgh* touring islands. Jt being n-^ interest, as well as my inclination, to pay court to all the great men, without making enquiry into the validity of their assumed titles, I invited l^oulaho on board j he brought with him, as a present, two fat hogs, though not so fat as himself. If weight of body could give weight in rank or power, he was certainly the most eminent man, in that re» spect, we had seen. I found him to be a sedate, sen- sible man. He viewed the ship, and the several new- objects, with uncommon attention; and asked many pertinent questions ; one of which was, what could induce us to visit these islands ? After lie had satisfied his curiosity in looking at the cattle^ and other novelties which he met with upon deck, i dtjsired him to walk down into the cabin. To this his attendants objected, saying, that if he were to accept of that invitation, it must happen, that people would walk over his head ; but the thief himself, less scrupulous, in this respect, than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and walked down. Poulaho sat down with us to dinner ; but he ate lit- tle, and drank less. \Vhen we rose from the table, he i m I Ki i'H -^l b n m 171 Voyages of desired me to accompany him on shore. I attended the chief in my own boat, having first made presentj to him of such articles as, 1 could observe, he valued much, and were even beyond his expectation to re- ceive. 1 was not disappointed in my view of thus $e. cur'mg his friendship ; for the moment the boat reached the beach, he ordered two more hogs to be brought and delivered to my people. He was then carried out of the boat/ by some of his own people, upon a board riesembling a hand-barrow, and went and seated him. self in a small house near the shore, which seemed to have been erected there for his accommodation. He placed me at his side; and his attendants seated theiii' selves in a semicircle before us, on the outside of the house. Sehind the chief, or rather on one side, sat an old- woman, with a sort of fan in her hand, whose ofHce h was to prevent his being pestered with the flie». 1 staid till several of his attendants left him, first paying him obeisance, by hewing the hand down to the sole of his foot, and touching or tapping the same, with the upper and under side of the fingers of both hands. Others, who vvere not in the circle, came, as it seemed, on purpose, and paid him this mark of re- spect, and then retired, without speaking a Word. I was quite charmed with the decorum that was observ- ed. 1 had no where seen the like, not even amongst more civilized nations. Poulaho, the king, as I shall now call him, came on board betimes next morning ; and brought, as a present to me, one of their caps, made, or at least covered, with red feathers. These caps, or rather bonnets, are com- posed of the tail feathers of the tropic bird, with the red feathers of the parroquets wrought upon them, or jointly with them. They are made so as to tie upon the forehead without any crown, and have the form of a simicircle, whose radius is eighteen or twenty inches. At day-break, the next moriiing, 1 weighed with a fine breeze, and stood to the westward, with a view to return to Annamooka. We were followed by several CAPTAIN COOK. I7f> sailing canoes, in one of which was the king. He Guitted us in a short time; but left his brother, and Jye of his attendants, on board. We had also the company of a chief, just then arrived from Tongata- 5oo, whose name was Tooboueitoa. The moment he arrived, he sent his canoe away, and declared that he, and five more, who canje with him, would sleep oa board ; so that I had now my cabin 611ed with visitors, Tiiey brought plenty of provisions with them, for which they always had suitable returns. , • In our course the; ship was very near running full upon a low sandy isle, called Pootoo. It happened, very fortunately, that the people hnd just before been ordered upon deck, to put the ship ai;out, so that the necessary movements were executed with judgment aid alertness ; and this alone saved us from ctestruction. Ihe Discovery being astern, was out of danger. Such hazardous situations are the unavoidable companions of the man who goes upon, a voyage of discovery. 'J'his circumstance frightened our passengers so much, that they expressed a strong desire to get on shore. Ac- cordingly, as soon as day-light returned, 1 hoisted out a boat, and ordered the officer who commanded her> after landing them at Kotoo, to sound alon^ the re^f lor anchorage. . ' ' ' « ' '- ' * ' *" Having met with a convenient station, we lay here until the 4th, when we weighed, and stood away for Annamooka, where we anchored next morning. I went on shore soon after, and found the inhabitants very busy in digging up yams to bring to market. These were now in the ■ greatest perfection j and we procured a good quantity, in exchange for pieces of iron. About noon, next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told us that several canoes, laden with hogs, aud other provisions, which had sailed with hiin from that island, had bs n lest, owing to the late blow- ing weather ; and that every body on board them had perished. This melancholy tale did not seem to affect any of his countrymen who heard it; and, as to our- selves, we were by this time too well acquainted with 3 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 IttlM |25 |5o ^^" mH ^ U£ 12.0 ^ His !■■ ^ '^ v: 'V>' /^ "W^ '> '^ '/ .c Hiotographii Sdences Corporation 23 WBST MAIN STRUT -^fiiTM.N.Y. 14510 (7l6)t73-4S03 ^ **% r ^ ''f 11 \''--M ISO rOYAGES OF his character, to give much credit to such a story. The following morning, Poulaho, and the other chiefs, who Jiad been wind-bound with him^ arrived. 1 happened 9t this time to be on shore, in company with Feenmi, -who now seemed to be sensible of the impropriety of his conduct, ip assuming a character that did not belong to him. For he not only acknowledged Poulaho to be king of Tongataboo, and the other isles, but aifected to insist much oo it, which, no doubt, was with a view to inake amends for his former presumption. I left him to visit this greater man, whom i found sitting with a few people before him. But, every one hastening to pay court to him, tlie circle increased pretty fast. ] was very desirous of observing Feenou*s behaviour on - this occasion, and had the most convincing proof of hit inferiority ; for he placed himself amongst tne rest that sat before Poulaho, as attendants on his majesty. Both he and Poulaho went on board with me to dinner; but only the latter sat at table. F^enou, having made his obeisance in the usual way, saluting his sovereign's foot with his head and hands, retired out of the cabin. The king had before told us that this would happen; ' and it now appeared that Feenou could not even eat or drink in his royal presence. At eight o^clock next morning, we steered for Tongataboo, having a gentle breeze at north-east. About fourteen or fifteen sailing vessels, belonging tn the natives, set out with us ; but every one of then outran the ships considerably. In the afternoon of next day, we came to an anchor off that island, in a safe station. Soon after I landed, accompanied by Omai, • and some of the ofHcers. We found the* king waiting for us upon the beach. He immediately conducted ui to a small neat house, situated a little within the skirt; of the woods, with a fine large area btsfore it. 'Ih house, he told me, was at my service during our stay at the island ; and a better situation we could not wiih for. We h^d not been long in the house, before a pretty ' large circle of the natives were assembled bef^^reu.') \M caPtms cook. 181 and seated upon the area. A root of the kava plant being brought, and laid down before the king, he ordered it to be split into pieces, and distributed to se- veral people of both sexes, who began the operation of chewing it ; and a bowl of their favourite liquor was soon prepared. In the mean time, a baked hog, and two baskets of baked yams, were produced, and after} wards divided into ten portions. ITiese portions were then given to certain people present j but how many were to share in each [ could not tell. The liquor was next served out ; but I observed thdt not a fourth part of the company had tasted either the victuals or the drink. As I intended to mske some stay at Tongataboo,*^ we pitched a tent, in the forenoon, just by the house ^hich Poulaho had assigned for our use. The horses* cattle, and sheep, were afterwards landed ; and a party of marines, with their officer, stationed there as a guard. 'Ihe observatory was then set up at a small distance from the other tent ; and Mr. King resided on shore, to attend the observations. I'he gunners were ordered to conduct the traftic with the natives, wlip thronged from every part of the island with hogs, yams, cocoa-nuts, and other articles of their produc* • 111 a short time, our land-post was like a tair, and the Miips were so crowded with visiiori, that we had hardly room 10 stir upon tne decks. - , "' • i'eenou had taken up his residence in ouif neighbotir> bo id J hut he was no longer liie leading man. How- ever, we still found him to be a person of consequence, [and we had daily proofs of his opulence and liberality, jliy the Continuance of his valuable present-?. But the [king was equally attentive in thi-j respect ; for scarcely I a day passed wiiiiout receiving from him some con- jiderable donation. We how heard that there were [other great mer. of the island, whom we had not ai [yet seen. Oiago, and Toobou, hi particular, meu- [tioned a person named Mareewagee, who, they said, 'as of the first consequence in the place. Some ©f the ftahves even hinudj that he was too great a man <• t'i- Kl '•'i- Ji .V' .itl ■ Ml .'r^ *?t!3 {''if' •- ■! 189 VOYAGES OP confer the honour of a visit upon us. This account exciting my curiosity, I mentioned to Poulaho, that I was very desirous of waiting upon - Maretwagee ; and he readily agreed to accompany me to the place of his residence : but we did not find him at home. About no n the next day, this chief actually came to the neighbourhood of our post on shore ; and with him, a verjr considerable number of people oi all ranks. 1 was informed that he had taken thi.« trouble, on pur. ?iosc to give me an opportunity of waiting upon him. n the afternoon, a party of us, therefore, accompa- aied by Feenou, landed to pay him a visit. We found a person sitting under a large tree, near the shore, a little to the right of the tent. A piece of cloth, at least forty yards long, was spread before him, round which a great number of persons of both sexes were seated. It was natural to suppose that this was the great man; but xve were undeceived by Feenou ; who informed us, that another, who sat on a piece of mat, a little way from this chief, to the fight hand, was Mareewagee, who receive^ us very kindly, and desired us to sit down by him'. The person who sat ucder the tree, fronting us, was called Toobou. Both he and Mareewagee had a venerable aspect. Tiie latter was a slender/ man, and, from his appearance, seemed to be considerably above three-score years of age. The former was rather corpulent, and alm'st blind with a disorder in his eyes ; though not so old. We entertained them for about an hour, with the per- formance of two French horns and a drum. ]>ut thev seemed most pleased with the firing oOT a pistol, whicli Captain Clerke had in his pocket. Before I took mj leave, the large piece of cloth was rolled up» and, with a few cocoa-nuts, presented to me. Ibward ncran, Poulaho returned from the place where we had left him two days before, and brought with him his son, a youth abour twelve years of age. I had his company at dinner ; 'out the son, though pre- sent, was not allowed to sit down with him.. It was Tery convenient to have him for my guest ; for vvhea kvagee : and ', '^ CAPTAIN COOK. 1B3 he was present, which w^s generally the case \vhile we staia here, every other native was excluded from the table ; and but few uf them would remain in the cabin. The king was very soon reconciled to our man- ner of cookery. But still, 1 believe, he dined thus freqaently with me, more for the take of what we gare him to drink, than for what we set before him to ear: for he had taken a liking to our wine, could empty his bottle as well as mostmen^ and was as cheer* fuioterit. Having visited Toobou, and interchanged present! with himr soon after, Feenou came, and acquainted me that /oung Fattafaihe, Poulaho*9 son, desired to see me. I obeyed the summons, and found the prince and Omai sitting under a large canopy of the finer sort of cloth, with a piece of the coarser sort spread under them, and before them, that was seventy-six yards longy and seven and a half broad. On one side was a large, old boar \ and on the other side a heap of cocoa-nuis. A number of people were seated round the cloth ; and amongst them i observed Mareewagee, and others of the first rank. I was desired to sit down by the prince ; and then Omai informed me, that he had been instructed by the king to tell me, that as he and I were friends, he hoped that his son might be joined in this friendship ; and that as a token of my consent, I would accept of his present. I very readily agreed to the proposal ; and it being now dinner time, I invited them all on board. Accordingly, the young prince, Mareewagee, Too* bou, three or four inferior chiefs, and two respectable old ladies, of the first rank, accompanied me. Maree* wagee was dressed in a new piece of cloth^ on the sktts of wliich were fixed six pretty large patches of red feathers. This dross seemed to have been made on purpose for this visit ; for as soon as he had eoi on board, he put it off, and presented it to me. Every one ( f my visitors received from me such presents as, I had reason to believe, they were highly satisfied with. When dinner came upon table^ not one of Q2 U''"'>)-'t ■•■»' '\", i :i:lli'; ' .•« !': I iMI*' M Mi- ;!!ii;iti 194 VOTASES OP Ithem would sit down, or eat a bit of any thing that was served up. On expressing my surprise at thii, they were all taboo, as they said; which word hai a very comprehensive meaning ; but in geperal signifies that a thing is forbidden. Dinner bein^ over, and having gratified their curiosity, by shewmg to them every part of the ship, i then conducted them on ithore. As soon as ihp boat reached the bpach, Feenou, and some others, instantly sepped out. Young Fattafaihe following them, was caljed back by Nlareewagee, who row paid the heir apparent the same obeisance, and in the same manner, that 1' had seen it paid to the king. By this time i had acquired some certain information about thp relative situations of the several great men whose names have been so often mentioned. I now Knew that Marepwagee and Toobou were brothers, Feenou was one of Alareewagee's sons 5 and Too- boueitoa was another. The seventeenth was fixed upon by Mareewagee for giving a grand haiva, or entertainment, to which ive were all invited. 'For this purpose a large space had been cleared, before the temporary hut of this chief, near our post, as an area where the performances vere to be exhibited. In the morning, great mul- titudes of the natives came in from the country, every one carrying a pole, about six feet long, upon hit shoulder ^ and at each end of every pole a yam was suspended. These yams and poles were deposited on each side of the area, so as to form two large heaps, decorated with difTerent sorts of small fish, and piled up to the greatest advantage. They were Mareewa- eee's present to Captain Clerke and me. Every thing being thus prepared, about eleven o'clock they began to exhibit various dances, which H jy called mai, J he liiusic consisted, at first, of seventy men as a chorus, who sat down ; and amidst them were placed three in* strumenM, which we called drums, from their etfect. 7'he natives call them nqffa. These instruments pro- 4u9e a rude, though loud and powerful sound- 3 . ' ' ' thing that ise at this, word hai a ral signifies over, and ig to them >d them on ^'eenou, and g Fattafaihe wagee, who ance, and in to the king. 1 information al great men )ned. 1 DOW ere brothers. ; and Too- ireewagee for J to which tve rge space had of this chief, performances r, great mul- 'ountry, every mg, upon his ole a yam was e deposited on o large heaps, fish, and piled jre Mareewa- . Every thing [)ck they began iled mai, i be n as a chorus, ►laced three in» jm their etfect. istrumenis prQ* sound* -CAPTAIN COOK. 185 The first dance consisted of four ranks, of twenty- four men each, holding in their hands a httle thin» light wooden instrument, about two feet long, and in shape, not unlike a sniall oblong paddle. With these, which are called pagge, they made a great many dif- Cerent motions, ail which were accompanied by cor* responding attitudes of the body. Their motions were at tirst slow, but quickened as the drums beat faster ; and they recited sentences, in a musical tone, the whole time, which were answered by the chorus ; but at the end of a short space they ail joined, and finished with a shout ; then the rear rank dividing, shifted them^ selves very slowly round each end, and meeting in the front, formed the first rank ; the whole numl^r con- tinuing to recite the sentences as before. The other ranks did the same successively, till that which at first was the front, became the rear; and their evolution continued in the same manner, till the last rank re- gained its first situation, lliey then began a much quicker dance, though slow at first, atid sung about ten minutes, when the whole body divided into two , parts, retreated a little, and' then approached, form^ ing a sort of circular figure, which finisned the dance. In a short time, seventy men sat down as a chorus to another dance. This consisted of two ranks, of sixteen persons each, with young Toobou at their head. 1 hese danced, sung, ^nd twirled the pagge as before ; but, in general, much quicker. A motion, that met with particular approbation, was one in which they held the face aside, as if ashamed, 'i'he back rank closed before the front one, and th^t again resumed its place, as in the two former dances."" At that instant two lAen entered very hastily, and exercised the clubs whicn they use in battle. They did this, by first twirling them in the^r hands, and making circular strokes before them« with great force aotl quickness; but so skilfully managed, that, thq.ugh i»tanding quite cloie, they never interfered. 1 o them succeeded a person with a spear, in the same hasty, manner ; looking about eagerly, as '^ in search of somebody to throw it gu Ho then caa 'Q3 ^ ■AiJblMiUMkMari ««A VOYAGES O? ^ ^ '*asf.ly to one .-.de of the crowd m .he f^^^^r.!^ «o " h mself in a '^"=="^"rfneo "he™, bending live knee • lr\U with hi, .pear at one -^'^^"^.^^^ ,. He con- a little, ana trembhng. " '' *" f;„ ,econd». when he tinucd in this n>anner on'y a le .^ j^e same adroitness. , , eleven till pear three ■ qhese dances If f.^^/"", doubtless, .mended to o'clock; and though .heyj«e. vast number. of ,hev» us a specimen of tneir o . ^ Some of us S ov.n people attended a» JP''^ j^ „„ or twe ye !ln.>ted that there v»ere not '«'»;" ^f a mile, Said wUhin the compass of a quarts ^^ lra«n together, for the "«>" P"*^, ^^JSons and mo- l5o pen Ian describe the numerous a ^^_^^ ^^^ ^:„,! the singularity of wh.hwa^^^^^^ ,he ease and B'f^fTL*' conducted with far better Wmed ; -^ •^,\:^:'U";x7--d •» ^ '-6«= - - order than could, nave u<» r . , . l.„ "tarlV in the morning "^ f :„S\h^VSrm'.!'\ pened that s«««Sly j;!„\f .^f "Jj'e'r.gallery of the man got out of a canoe 'n«o we ^ t^son. lie Sution, and stole iron, thence a p j^e ,be discovered, P^^-ff'^ee old women. «hoxvere ThiD On this occasion, jhjee o jj,^ pj.so- '"^he canoe made oud lamentat-o.^ ^ Cnn^era^d'airthirC don. Without shedding HIV.S day 1 bestowed -.^-rdnloATm^tK ,n return V those we hd'ecm^^^^^^ ^^ ,^ Jiefore ; and as the <^"'j;"' JJ, e^Hed upon us to maM Exhibited fo«. our »'"^\^^'''V ordered a pa'ty^^, f' , .„» exhibition in oyr way, » , ^ where nis put -ft I so coti- n he same from ance; much three dedto ibcfs of e of us twelve a milci ;urio8Uy» and mo- than was ere per- far beitev ^e an as- dent hap- stoms. A ery of the ason. Wc g-side the who were r the priso- nost violent shedding * ne presents, him the day h^ had then ^ us to tn^i^e party of mar ^^t Nvhere his •'■■ CAPTAIN COOK* 187 played off some fireworks at the same place. PcuIahOf with all the principal chiefs, and a great number of people of all denominations, were present. The platoon Bring, which was executed tolerably well, seemed to give them pleasure ; but they were lost in astonishment when they beheld our water rockets. In expectation of this evening show, the circle of natives about our tent being pretty large, they engaged the greatest part of the afternoon in boxing and wrestling. \Vhen any of them chuses to wrestle, he gets up from one side of the ring, and crosses the ground in a tort of measured pace, clapping smartly on the elbow joint of one arm, which is bent, and produces a hollow sound ; that is reckoned the challenge, if no person comes out from the opposite side to engage him, he re- turns in the same manner, and sits down ; but some* times sunds clapping in the midst of the ground, to provoke some one to come out* if an opponent ap- peals, they come toEether with marks of the greatest ^cod-nature, generally smiling, and taking time to ad- just the piece of cloth which is fastened round the waist. Their combats seldom last long before one givet in. Some of our people ventured to contend with the natives in both these exercisesi but were always worsted. The animals which we bad brought were all on shore* Knowing their thievish tiisposition, I thought it pru- dent to declare my intention of leaving some of th^m behind, and even to make a distribution of them pre- viously to my departure. With this view, in the even- ing of the 19th, I assembled all the chiefs before our house, and my intended presents to tht;m were marked out. To Poulaho, the, king, I gave a young imglish bull and cow ; to Mareewagee, a Cape ram and two ewes 'y and to Feenou, a horse pnd ^ mare. As my design, to make such a distribution, had been made known the day before, most of the people in the neigh- bourhood were then present. 1 instructed Omai to tell them that there were no such animals within many liionths sail of ((leir i»i^n^^ th^t \ve l\%d brought t|ie^i| 188 VOYAGES or for their use, from that immense distance, at a vai^ trouble and expence; and therefore thev must be careful not to kill any of them/till they haa multiplied to a numerous race ; and lastlv, that they and their children ought to remember that they had received them from the men of Britain. He also explained to them their several uses, and what else was necessary for them to know^ cr rather as far as he knew ; for Omai was not very well versed in such things himself. Next day I dined on shore. I'he king sat down with us; but he neither eat nor drank.' 1 found that this was owin^ to the presence of a female, whom, as we afterwards understood, had sttperior rank to him- self. As toon as thrs great personaee had dined, sh6 stepped up to the king, who put his hands to her feet ; an^d then she retired. He immediately dipped his fingers into a glass of wine, and then receiv ed the isance of all ner followers, ''lliis was the single in- *icc we ever observed of his paying this mark of re- verence to any person. At the king's desire, 1 ordered some fireworks to b^ played off in the evening ; but, unfortunately, being damaged, this exhibition did not answer expectation. ^ . . ' Some of the officers, belonging to both ships, who had made an excursion into the interior parts of the island, without my leave, and indeed without my knowledge, returned this evening, after an absence of two day^. They had taken with them their muskets, Xvith the necessary ammunition, a^d several small ar-r tides of the favourite commodities; all which the na« tives had the dexterity to steal from vthem, in the couhe of their expedition. Feenou and Poulaho, upon this occasion, very justly observed, that if any of my peeple, at' any time, waiited to ^o into the country, they ought to be acquainted With it; in which case they would send proper persons along with them : and then they would be answerable for their safety, lliough 1 gave myself no trouble about the recovery of the things stolen upon this occasion, most of them^ ihrough i^eenou't interposition^ were recovered; ex* a vait 1st be tiplied I their ceived ned to cessary w ; for iself. : down nd that iom, a» to him- cfd, 8h6 er feet ; ped his .cd the ngle in- k of re- ordered ig ; but, i did not ips, who ts of the - tiout my bsence of muskets, small ar-* the na-i I, in the aho, upon ny of my country, hich case dem: and ir safety, ecovery of of them. «Fii 1S8 for ' troll care to i chill thti the! for OlT wit thii we sel ste air> fin ob sts vc so HI a« a m-\ 1 h 4- B| ■1:| I jii^iiB Ptiblifh'd hy k f oi'IRoe.lSOf: in the = ■ i J.S./:- CAPTAIN COQK. 189 «ept one musket, and a few other articles of inferioi valac. We had now recruited the ships with wood and water, and had finished the repairs of our sails. How- ever, as an eclipse of the sun was to happen upon the 3ih of July, and it was now the ^6th ot June, 1 re- solved to defer sailing till that time had elapsed, in order to have a chance of observing it. Having, there- fore, some days of leisure before me, a party of us, accompanied by Foulaho, set out early next morning, in a boat, for Mooa, the village where he and the other great men usually reside. As we rcv'*^d up the inlet, we met fourteen canoes fishing in compuny ; in one of which was PouIaho*s son. In each canoe was a trian- gular net, extended between two poles , at the lower eno of which was a cod, to receive and secure the fish. They had already caught some fine mullets ; and they put about a dozen into our boat, i desired to see their method of fishing, which they readily complied with, A shoal of fish was supposed to be upon one of the banks, which they instantly inclosed in a long net like a stine, or set^net. 1 his the fishers, one getting into the water out of each boat, surrounded with the triangular nets in their hands, with which they scooped the fish out of the seine, or caught them as ihey attempted to leap over it, Leaving the prince and his fishing party, we pro- ceeded to the bottom of the bay. Here we observed a fiataoka, or burying-place, which was much more extensive, and seemingly of more consequence, than any we had seen at the other islands. V\ e were told that it belonged to the king, it consisted o{ three prttty large houses, situated upon a rising ground, with a small one at a distance, all ranged longitudinally. 7 hey were covered and pa\ed with tine pebbles; and the whole was inclosed by large Hat stones of hard coral rock, properly hewn, placed on their edges; ono of which stones measured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thickness. Within one of these houses were two rude wooden busts of w^u. On r" 190 VOYAGES OP* enquiring what ,: When we got on board the ship, I found that every thing had been quiet during my absence, not a theft having been committed ; of which Feenou and Futta- faihe, the king's brother, who had undertaken the ma- nagement of his countrymen, boasted not a little. Thi) shews what power the chiefs have, when they have the will to execute it ; which we were seldom to expect, since whatever was stolen from us generally, if not al- ways, was conveyed to them, "^i he good conduct of the natives was of short duration ; for the next day six er eight of them assaulted some of our people who were sa\ying planks. They were fired upon by the sentry ; and one was supposed to be wounded^ and three others taken. These 1 kept confined all night ; and did not dismiss them without punishment. After this, they behaved with a little more circumspection, , Mil gave us much leu trout^le. Thi» change of beha- r 192 VOYAGE!^ OF 'tiour W48 certainly occasioned by the man being bounded ; for before they had only been told the efftct of fire-arms, but now they had felt it. On the dOth 1 visited Futtafaihe, where we spent the night ; but we were a good deal disturbed by a sin* gular instance of luxury, in which their principal mea indulge themselves; that of being beat while they are asleep. Two women sat by Futtafaihe, and performed this operation, whroh was called tooge tooge, by beat- ing briskly on his body and legs with both Hsts, as on i drum, tell he fell asleep, and continuing it the whole flight, with some short intervals. When once the person is asleep, they abate a little in the strength and quickness of beating; but resume it, if they observe any appearance of his awaking. In the morning we elf with & pleasing idea, that some future navigators may, from the same station, behold these meadows stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by the ships of England ; and that the completion of this single bene- Toknt purpose, independently of all other considera- tions, would sufficiently mark to posterity that our voyages had ndt been useless to the general interests of The next morning I planted a pine apple, and sowed the seeds of melons, and other vegetables, in the chiefs plantation. I had some encouragement, indeed, to latter myself that my endeavours of this kind would lot be fruitless ; for this day there was served up, at mjr dinner, a dish of turnips, being the produce of the Keds 1 had left during my last voyage. 1 had fixed on I the 15th for sailing, till Taoofa pressed me lo stay a ! day or two longer, to receive a present he had pre- fer me, consisting of two small heaps of yams, land some fruit, which. seemed to be collected by a kind of contribution, as at the other isles. For this libe- rality 1 made an adequate return, and soon after [weighed. We now took leave of the Friendly Islands, after U stay of near three months, during which time we llived together in the most cordial friendship.. Som.e licctdental dilTerences, it is true, now and then hap- Ipentd, owing to their great propensity to thieving, but 100 often encouraged by the negligence of our own pple. The time employed amongst them was nor K'2 f ! ■ » 196 VOYAGES OF thrown awfiy. We expended very little of our sea pro. visions; subsisting, in general, upon tlie produce of the islands while we staid, and carrying away with us a quantity of refreshments, sufficient to last till our ar- \ rival at another station, where we could depend upon a fresh supply. / was not sorry, besides., to have had an opportunity of bettering the condition of these good people, by leaving the useful animals before-mentioned among them ; and, at the same time, those designed for Otaheite, received fresh strength in the pastures of Tongataboo. But, besides the immediate advantages which both the ns'iyes of tt>e Friendly Islands, and ourselves, re- ceived by this visit, future navigators from Europe, if any such ever tread our steps, will profit by the know- ledge I acquired of the geography of this part of the Facifi^ Ocean ; and the more philosophical reader, who loves to view human nature in new situations, will, perhaps, find matter of amusement, :f not of instruc- tion, in the information which I have been enabled to convey to him concerning the inhabitants of this Archi- pelago. According to the information that we received there, this Archipelago is very extensive. Above one hundred and fifty islands were reckoned up to us by the natives, who made use of bit$ of leaves to ascertain ' their number. The natives of the Friendly Islands seldom exceed the common stature, (though we have measured some who were above six feet,) but are very strong, and jvell made, especially as to their limbs. They are* ge- nerally broad about the shoulders; and though the] muscular disposition of the men, which seems a conse* quence of much action, rather conveys the appearance of strength than of beauty, there were several to be sees who weie really handsome. We met with hundreds of I truly European faces, and many genuine Roman noseij amongst them. Their eyes and teeth are good ; but the last, neither so rennarkably white, nor so well set,] as are often found amongst Indian nations. WN ::. ' ~ cXptain cook. ' lf>7 The women are not so much distinguished from the men by their features, as by their general form, which i), for the most part, destitute of that strong, fleshy firmness that appears in the latter. Though the features of some are so delicate, not only to be a true index of their sex, but to lay claim to a considerable share of beauty and expression ; for the bodies and limbs of most of the females are well proportioned ; and some absolutely perfect models of a beautiful figure. But the most remarkable distinction in the women, is the uncommon smallness and delicacy of their finger?, which may be put in competition with the finest in Europe. ^ ' - The general colour is a cast deeper than the copper brown ; but several of the men and women have a true olive complexion ; and some of the last are even a |reaz deal fairer. We saw a man and a boy at iia- aee, and a child at Anamooka, perfectly white. Such ave been found amongst all black nations ; hut 1 ap- prehend that their colour is rather a disease' than a na- tural phenomenon. Tiicir countenances very remark- ably express the abundant mildness or good nature which they possess, and are entirely free from that savage keenness which marks nations in a barbarous Slate.. They are frank, cheerful, and good-humoured ; though sometimes in the presence of their chiefs, they put on a degree of gravity, and such a serious air, as becomes stilF and awkward^ and has an appearance of reserve. Their peaceable disposition is sufficiently evinced from the friendly reception all strangers have met with who have visited them. Instead of offering to attack them openly, or clandestinely^ as has been the case with most of the inhabitants of these seas, they have never appeared m the smallest degree hos- tile; but, on the contrary, hke ihe most civilize^ people, have courted an intercourse with their visitors by bartering, which is the only medium that unites all natiofis in a sort of friendship. Upon the whole, they jcem possessed of many of the most excellent qualities that adorn the hum^n mind ; such as industry^ ipge^ U3 i ■im f mrmm 198 ' yoYAGKs op nuity, persererance, aifability, and, perhapi, other ?ir« tues, which our short stay with them might prevent our observing. The only defect sullying their character, that we know of, is a propensity to thieving; to which we found those of all ages, and both sexes, addicted, and to an uncommon degree. Great allowances should be made for the foibles of these poor natives of the Pacific Ocean, whoie minds we overpowered with the glare of objects equally new to them, as they were capti* varing. . ' Ihe dress of both men and women is the same; and consists of a piece of cloth, or matting, (but mostly the former,) about two yards wide, and two and a half . long ; at least so long as to go once and a half round the waist, to which it is confined by a girdle, or cord. It is double before, and hangs down like a petticoat, at low as the middle of the leg. The upper part of the garment, aboye the girdle, is plaited into several foldi, so that, when unfolded, there is cloth sufficient to draw up ^nd wrap round the shoulders, which is very seldom done. The inferior sort are satisfied with small pieces ; and very often wear nothing but a covering made of leaves of plants, or the maro, which is a nar- row piece of cloth, or matting, like a sash. 1 his they pass between the thighs, and wrap round ihe waist; but the use of it is chiefly confined to the men. I'he ornaments worn by both sexes are necklaces, made of the fruit of the pandanus, and various sweet- imelling flowers, which go under the general name of kahutla. Others are composed of small shells, the wing and leg-bones of birds, shark's teeth, and other things; all which hang loose upon the breast ; rings of tortoise* shell on the fingers ; and a number of these joined to- gether as bracelets on the wrists. Nothing material occurred for some time after we left the Friendly Islands. In the morning of the 8th of August, land was seen, nine or ten leagues distant. A* ^^e approached, we saw it every where guarded by 9 r^ef of coral rpcki extending iti seme places a full ' CAPTAIN COOK. 199 niie from the land, and a high surf breaking upon it. We also observed people on several parts of the coast ; iDii in a little time after we had reached the lee-side of the island, we saw them launch two canoes, into which above a dozen men got, and paddled towards us, I now shortened sail, as well to give these canoes time to come up with us, as to sound for anciiorage. 'J l)e caooes having advanced to about the distance of a pi»tul shot from the ships, they stopped. Omai was entpbyed, as he usually had been on such occasions, to use all his eloquence* to prevail on the men in them to come nearer ; but no entreaties could induce them to trust themselves within our reach. 1 hey kept eagerly pointing to the shore with their paddles, and calling ta OS to go thither; and several of their countrymen, who , uooct upon the beach, held up something white, which «e coinsidered also as an invitation to land. But I did m think proper to risk losing the advantage of a fair wind, for the sake of examining an island which ap- peared to l>e of little consequence. For this reason I made sail to the north, but not without getting from liiem, during their vicmity to our ship, the name of liitir island, which they called '1 oobouai. At day-break, in the morning of the I'Sth, we saw the island of Nlaitea. Soon alter, Otaheite mad^ its appearance. When we fit^t drew near the islano, se- viral canoes came off to the ship, each conducted by two or three men. fiut, as they were common fellows, Omai took no particular notice of them, nor they of him. At length, a chief, whom I had known before, named Ootee, and Omai*s brother-in-law, who chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or lour more persons, all of whom knew Omai, came en board. Yet there was nothing cither tender or striking in their meeting. On the contrary, there seemed tr? be a perfect indiflerence on both sides, till Omai having taken his brother down into the cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few, T his being presently known amongst the rest of the Datives upon the deck^ the lace of ailaus was en* ■P iPV f il'l !?00 VOYAGES OP ' tuwly turned, and Ot)rtt;, who would hardly speak to Oniai before, now begged that they might bdirientis, and exchange names. Omai accepted of the honour, and corifirmed it with a present of red feathers; and Ootee, by way of return, sent on shore for a hog. But it was evident to every one of us, that it was not the man, but his property, they were irwlove with. Such was Omai's first reception among his countrymen. I own 1 never expected it would be otherwise ; but still J was in hopes that the valuable cargo of presents, with which the liberality of his friends in England had load- ed !:im, would be the means of raising him into conse* quence, and making him respected, and even courted, by the first persons throughout the extent of the Society Islands. This could not but have happened, had he conducted himself with any degree of prudence. But, instead of it, I am sorry to say, that he paid too little regard to the repeated advice of those who wished hin^ well, and siilVered himself to be duped by every design- ini; knave. '1 he important news, of red feathers being on board our ships, having been conveyed on shore by Omai's friends, day had no sooner begun to break next morn- ing, than we were surroundea by a multitude of canoes, crowded with people bringing hogs and fruit to markett At first, a quantity of leathers, not greater than wha| might be got from a torn- tit, would purchase a hog of forty or filiy pounds weight. But as almost every body in t()e ships was possessed of some of this precious art tide of trade, it fell in its value above five nundred per cent, before night. boon after we had anchored, Omai's sister came on board tc«ee him. i was happy to observe that, much to the honour of them both, their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest alTection, easier to be conceived than to be described, 'ihis moving steno having closed, and the ship being properly moored^ Omai and I went on shore. My first object was to pay a visit to a man, whom my friend represented as a very extraordinary personage mdeed| for U^ said, ihat he. CAPTAIN COOlt. ?ij was the god of Bolabola. We found him seated under one of those sinall awnings which they usually carry in tbeir larger canv^es. He was an elderly man, and nad lost the use of his limbs ; so that he was carried from place to place upoi^ a hand-barrow. From Omai's ac- count of this persoi), i expected to have seen some re- ligious adoration paid to him ; but, excepting some young plantain trees that lay before him, and upon the awning under which he sat, 1 could observe nothing by which he might be distinguished from their other chiefs* Omai presented to hmi a tuft of red feathers, tied to the end of a small stick ; but, after a little conversation on indilTerent matters with this Bolabola man, his atten« tion WRs drawn tu an old woman, the sister of his mo- ther. S: e was already at his feet, and had bedewed thtm plentifully with tears of joy, I left him with th« old lady, in the midst of a number of people, who had gathered round him, and vent to view a house, said to be built by strangers since 1 was here before. By an inscription, 1 iound it was erected by some Spaniards tbat had been lately there in two ships from Lima. When i returned, 1 found Omai holding forth to a large company ; and it was with some difHculty that he could be gut away to accompany me on b cipal men, who all seated themselves at the other end of the cloth, facing us. 1 hen a man, who sat by me, made a speech, consisting of short and separate sen- tences; part of which was dictated by those about him. He wds answered by one from the opposite side near the chibf. Etary spoke next ; then Omai ; and both of them were answered from the same quarter. 'Jhese orations were entirely about my arrival, and con- nections with them. The person who spoke last, told me, amongst other things^ that he was authorised to make a formal surrender of the province of Tiaraboo to me, and of every thing in it, which marks very plainly, that these peopk are no strangers to the policy of accommodating themselves to present circumstances. At length the young chief was directed by his attend- ants to come and embrace me ; and, by way of con« firming this treaty of friendship, wc exchanged names. 1 he ceremony being closed, he and his friends accom- panied me Oil board to dinner. Having tal^en m a fresh supply of water, and finish- ed ail oijr other necessary operation^, on the 23d I brought olT tlie cattle and sheep, and made ready for sea. On the 2jd, we got under sail, and steered for Matavai Bav, wliere the Resolution anchored the same evening, but the Discovery did not get m till the next morning. About nine o'clock, Otoo, the king of the whole island, attended by a great number of canoei CAPTAIN COOK. QCS full of people, came from Oparre, his place of re- sidence, and sent a mCfssage on board, expressing hit desire to see me. Accoidingly I landed, accompanied by Omaiy and some of the officers. We found a pro- digious number of people assembled on this occasion, and in the midst of them was the king, attended by bis father, his two brothers, and three sisters. 1 went op first, and saluted him, followed by Omai, who kneeled, and embraced his legs. He' had prepared bimself for this ceremony, by dressing in his very best suit of clothes, and behavea with a great deal of re- spect and modesty. Nevertheless^ very little notice was taken of him. Perhaps envy had some share in producing this cold reception. Jne made the chief a present of a large piece of red feathen, and about two or three yards of gold cloth ; and I gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold -laced hat, some tools, and, what was cf more value than all the other articles, a quantity of red feathers, and one of the bonnets in use at the Friendly Islands. After the hurry of this visit was over, the king, nnd the whole royal family, accompanied me on boards ibllowed by several canoes, laden with all kinds of pro- visions, in quantity sufficient to have served the compa- lies of both ships ibr a week. Soon after the king's mo« ther, who had not been present at the first interviewi came oa board, bringing with her a quantity cf pro- visions and cloth, which she divided l)etween me and Omai. For, although he was but little noticed at Hrsi by his countrymen, they no sooner gained the know- Itdgc of his riches, than they began to court his friend- ship. I encouraged this as much as I could ; for it wat my wish to fix him with Otoo. As I intended to leave all my European animals at this island, I thought he would be able to give some instruction about the ma- nagement of them, and their use. Besides, 1 knew, and saw, that the farther he was from his native island, he would be the b^ter respected. But unfortunately, poor Omai rejected my advice, and conducted himself io so imprudent a manner, that he. sooa lost the friend* 2 ■P IMWI ;. t 1 1 i! |l HI;, li 'si^i VOYAGES OF jhip of Otoo, and of every other person of note m Otahcite. As soon as we had dined, a party of us accompanied Otoo to Oparre, taking with us the poultry with which we were to stock the island. These I left at Oparre in the possession of Otoo ; and the geese and ducks began to breed before we sailed. We found there t gander, which the natives told us was the same that Captain Wallis had given to Oberca ten years before leveral goats j and the Spanish bull, which they kept tied to a tree, near Otoo's liousp I never saw a finer animal of his kind. He wa^ now the property of Etary, and had been brought from Oheitepeha to this place, in order to be shipped for Bolabola. But it piisses my compkehension how they can contrive to carry him in one of their cant^es. if we had not ar- rived, it would have been of little consequence who had the property of him, as, without a cow, he could be of no use ; and none had been left with him. Next day I put on shore three cows, a horse, a marc, and •heep. Having thus d sposed of these passengers, I found myself lightened o( a very heavy burthen. The trouble and vexation thit attended the bringing this living cargo thus far, is hardly to be conceived. But the satisfaction that I felt in having been so fortunate at to fulfil his Majesty's humane design, in^ sending such valuable aoimaJs to supply the wants of two worthy nations, suflficiently recompenced me for the many anxious hours I had passed, before this subordinate ob- ject of my voyage could be carried into execution. As I intended to make some stay here, wet setup the two observatories on Miravai i*oint. Adjoining to them, two tents were pitched, lor the n-ccpti .n of a guard, and of such people as it might be necessary to leave on shore in dilFerent departments. At this station, I intrusted the command to Mr. King ; who, at the time, attended the observations f-.r a certaining thi {^oing of the time keeper, and other purposes. On the 2i5thf I had a piece of ground cleared for a gardeni ' and planted it with several articks. Some H of note m accompanied y with which ;ft at Oparre, se and clucks found there t the same that years before ; ch they kept :r saw a finer 5 property of itepeha to this abola. But it in contrive to e bad not ar- isequence who cow, he could ith him. Next e, a mare, and passengers, I burthen. The bringing ihij nnceived. But so fortunate ai in^ sending such ot" two worthy for the many ubordinaie ob- execution, ere, ^vet setup Adjoining to reccptl 'n of a be necessary to At this station, •, who, at the certaining thi r poses. Ind cleared for a rtick*. Some CAP TAIN COOK. SJ05 tneIons> potatoes, and two pine-apple plants, were in a fail: way of succeeding before we left the place. I had brought from the Friendly Islands several shaddock trees. 'I'hese I also planted here ; and they can liardly fail of success, unless their growth should be checked by the same premature curiosity which destroyed a vine planted by the Spaniards at Oheitepeha. A num- ber of the natives got together to taste tlie first fruit it bore; but, as the grapes were still sour, they con- sidered it as little hotter than poison, and it was una- nimously determined to tread it under foot. In that state, Omai found it by chance, and was overjoyed at the discovery; for he had a full confidence, that if he had but grapes, he could easily make wine. Accord- ingly, he had several slips cut oi\ from the tree, tat carry with him ; and we pruned, and put in order, the remains of it. Probably, gro.vn wise by Oniai 3 instructions, they many now sulVer tiie fruit to grow to perfection, and not pass so hasty u sentence upon it again. We found here the y(ung man whom we called Oedidee, but whose real name is Ileete-heete. I had carried him front Ulietea in 1773, and brought him back in 1774, after he had visited the Friendly Islands, New Zealand, Easter Inland, and the Marqueses, and been on board my ship, in that extensive navigation, E about Bcven months. He was tenacious of his good breeding, and * Yes, Sir,' or, * if you please. Sir,' were frequently repeated by him. Heete-heete, who is a natrve of Bolabcia, had arrived in Otaheite about three months before, with no other intention, that we could learn, than to gratify his curiosity, or, perhaps, some other favourite passion. It was evident, however, ihat he preferred the modes, and even rarb, of his [Countrymen, to ours. For though I gave him some jdothes, which our Admiralty Board had been pleased [lo send for his use, (to which 1 added a chest of tool*, ind a few qther articles, as a present from myself,) he ileclinOd wearing them after a few days. This instance nay ba urged as a proof of the strctng prQpeni»it/ un" m I, i "i ! 206 VOYAGES OP lural to man, of returning to habits acquired at an early age, and only interrupted by. accident. in the morning of the 27th, a man came from Oheitepeha, and told us, that two Spanish ships had anchored in that bay the night before ; and> in con- firmation of this intelligence, he produced a piece of coarse blue cloth, which he said he got out of one of the ships; and which, indeed, to appearance, was almost quite new. He added, that Mateema was in one of the ships ; and that they were to come down to Matavai in a day or two. Some other circumstances, which he mentioned, gave the story so much the air of truth, that I dispatched Lieutenant Williamson in a boat to look into Oheitepeha Bay ; and, in the mean time, I put the ships into a proper posture of defence. For tliough England and Spain were at peace when I Jeft Europe, for aught 1 knew, a different scene might by this time have opened. However, on farther en- quiry, the fellow had imposed upon us ; and this was confirmed by Williamson's report, as soon as he re* turned. Hitherto the attention of Otoo and his people had been confined to us ; but next morning a new scene of] business opened, by the arrival of some messengers I from Eimeo, yvkh mteiligence that the people in that island were in arms ; and that Otoo's partisans there j had been wonted, and obliged to retreat to the ntoun* tains. The quarrel between the two islands, whiciij commenced in 1774, had, it seems, partly subsisted] ever since, llie formidable armament, which I saw at] that time, had sailed soon after 1 then left Otaheite; but the malecontents ot Einr. > had made so stout resistance^ that the Heet had returned without effecting much ; and now another expedition was necessary. On the arrival of these messengers, ail the chiffij who happened to be at Viatavai, assembled at Om house, where I actually was at the time, and had honour to be admitted into their council. One of i messengers opened the business of the assembly, inj speech of considerable length, in order to excite CAPtAiN COOK. 207 assembled chiefs of Otaheite to arm on the occasion. This opinion was combated by others, who were against commencing hostilities. At length the party for war prevailed. Otoo, during the whole debate, remained silent. Those of the council, who were for prosecuting the war, applied to me for my assistance ; and all of them wanted to know what part 1 would take. Omai was sent for to be my interpreter ; but, as he could not be found, I was obliged to speak for myself, and told them, as well as I could, that as the people of Ejtneo had never offended me, I could not think myself at liberty to engage in hostihties against them. With this declaration they seemed satisfied. On our enquiring into the cause of the war, we were told, that, some years before, a brother of Waheia- dooa, of Tieraboo, was sent to Eimeo, at the request of Maheine, a popular chief of that island, to be their king 'y but that he had not been there a week, before Maheine, having caused him to be killed, set up for himself in opposition to Tierataboonooe, his sister's son^ who became the lawful heir ; or else had been pitched upon by the people of Otaheite, to succeed to the go- vernment on the death of the other. Towha, a man of much weight in the island, happened not to be at Matavai at this time. It, however, appeared, that he was no stranger to what was transacted ; and that he entered with more spirit into the affair than any other chief. For, early in the morning of the 1st of ISep- tember, a messenger arrived from him, to acquaint Otoo, that he had killed a man to be sacrificed to the Eatooa, to implore the assistance of the god against Kimeo. This act of worship was to be performed at the great moral at Attahooroo ; and Otoo's presence^ it seems, was absolutely necessary on that solemn occa- sion. 1 proposed to Otoo that I might be allowed to accompany him. To this he readily consented; and we immediately set out in my boat, with my old iriend Potatou, Mr. Anderson, and Mr, Webber ; Omai fol« iovviug ip a canoe S2 ■M iOH mmm m SOS VOYAGES OP » As soon as we landed at Atiahooroo, which was about two o'clock in the afternoon, Otoo expressed his desire that the seamen might be ordered to remain in the boat ; and that Mr. Anderson, Mr. Webber, and my- self, might take off our hats as soon as we should come to the morai, to ^^rhich we immediately proceeded, attended by a great many men and some boys, but not one woman. VVe found four priests, and their at- tendants, or assistants, waiting for us. The ceremonies now began. One of the priests' ''attendants brought a young plantain tree, and laid it down before Otoo. One of the priests, seated at the morai, now began a long prayer. During this prayer, a man, who stoor' by the officiating priest, held in his hands two bundles, seemingly of cloth. In one of them, as we afterwards found, was the royal maro; and the other, if i may be allowed the expression, was the ark of the Earooa. As soon as the prayer was end- ed, the priests at the morai, with their attendants, went and sat down by those upon the beach, carrying with them the two bundles. Here they renewed their prayers. The dead body was now taken out of a ca- noe, and laid upon the beach, with the feet to the sea. The priests placed themselves around it, some sitting,^ and others standing ; and one, or more of them, re- peated sentences for about ten minutes. It was now laid in a parallel direction with the sea -shore. One of the priests then, standing at the feet of it, pronounced a long prayer, in which he was at times joined by the others, each holding in his hand a tuft of red feathers. In the course of this prayer, some hair was pulled off the head of the sacrifice, and the left eye taken our, both which were presented to Otoo, wrapped up in a green leaf. He did not, however, touch it, but gave to the man who presented it, the tuft of feathers which he had received from Towha. This, with the hair and eye, was carried back to the priests. During sorne part of this last ceremony, a king-fisher making a ntme in the trees, Otco turned to me, saying, ** 'Jl hat is ih«i CAPTAIN CeOK. 209 Eatooa !** and seemed to look upon it to be a good omen. The body was then carried a little way with its head • toward the morai, and Jaid under a tree, near which were fixed three broad thin pieces of wood, differently but rudely carved. The bundles of cloth were laid on a part of the morai, and the tufts of red feathers were placed at the feet of the sacrifice, round which the priests took their stations, and we were now allowed to go as near as we pleased. He who seemed to be the chief priest, sat at a small distance, and spoke for a quarter of an hour, but with different tones and ges«p tures, so that he seemed to expostulate with, or ques- tion, the dead person, to whom he constantly addressed himself. He then chaunted a prayer, which lasted near half an hour, in a whining, melancholy tone, ac- companied by two other priests, and in which Potatou, and some others, joined. Jn the course of this prayer, some more hair was plucked by the priest from the head of the corpse, and put upon one of the bundles. After this, the chief priest prayed ak)ne, holding in his hand the feathers which came from Towha. When he had finished, he gave them to another, who prayed in like manner. Then all the tufts of feathers were laid upon the bundles of cloth, which closed the ceremony at this place. The corpse was then carried up to the most con- spicuous part of the morai, with the feathers, the two bundles of cloth, and the drums, the last of which heat slowly. The. feathers and bundles were laid against the pile of stones, and the corpse at the foot of them. The priests, having again seated themselves round it, renewed their prayers, while some of their attendants dug a hole abcut two feet deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and covered it over with earth and stones. W hile they were putting him into the grave, «i boy squeaked aloud ; and Omai said to me, that it was the iatooa During this rime a fire having been made, a dog was produced, and killed, by twisting his ne^k^ aftd suffocating him. The hair w^s singed otTi mmm ! V 210 VOYAGES OF and the entrails taken out, and thrown into the fire, where they were left to consume. The body of the dog, after being besmeared with blood, and dried over the fire, was, with the liver and heart, carried and Inid down before the priests, who sat praying round the grave. They continued their ejaculations over the dog for some time, while two men, at intervals, beat on two drums very loud, and a boy screamed aj before, in a loud shrill voice, three different times. This, as we were told, was to invite Eatooa to feast on the banquet that they had prepared for him. As soon as the priest had ended their prayers, the carcase of the dog, with what belonged to it, was laid on a scaffold, about six fett high, that stood close by, on which lay the remains of two other dogs, and of two pigs, which had lately been sacrificed, and at this time emitted an intolerable stench. This kept us at a greater distance than would otherwise have been required of us. W hen the dog wSis put upon the scaffold, the priests and attendants gave a kind of shout, which closed the ceremonies for the present. The day being now also closed, we were conducted to a ho ise belonging to Potatou, where we were entertained and lodged for the night. Some other religious rites were performed next day j but on this subject we think we have said enough to satisfy our readers, perhaps to disgusi them. 'J'he unhappy victim, offered to the object of their worship, upon this occasion, seemed to be a middle- aged man j and, as we were told, was a towtow ; that is, one of the lowest class of the people. But, after all my enquiries, J could not learn that he had been pitched upon on account of any particular crime, com- mitted by him, meriting death. Having had an opportu- nity of examining the appearance of the body of the poor sufferer now offered up, I should observe, that ir was bloody about the head and face, and a good deal bruised upon the right temple, which marked the man- ner of his being killed : and we were told, that he had bten privately Knocked on the head with a stone. "Hf » CAPTAIN COOK. 211 Whenever any one of the great chiefs thinks a hu- man sacrifice necessary, on any particular emergency, he pitches upon the victim. Some of his trusty ser- vants are then sent, who fall upon suddenly, and put him to death with a club, or by stoning him. I'he king is next acquainted with it, whose presence at the solemn rites that follow, is, as 1 was told, absolutely necessary •, and, indeed, on the present occasion^ we could observe that Otoo bore a principal part. Before we parted, we were asked, if the solemnity, at which we had been present, answered our expecta- tions; what opinion we had of its efficacy ; and whether we performed such acts of worship in our own country ? During the celebration of the horrid ceremony, we had preserved a profound silence ; but as soon as it was closed, had made no scruple in expressing our senti- ments very freely about it to Otoo, and those who at- tended him ; of course, therefore, 1 coul^ not conceal my detestation cf it in a subsequent conversation with I'owha. Omai was made use of as our interpreter ; and he entered into our arguments with so much spirit, that this chief seemed to be in great wrath, especially when he was told, that if he had put a man to death in England, as he had done here, his rank would not have protected him from being hanged for it. Upon this he exclaimed, Maeno ! Maeno ! (Vile I Vile !) and would not hear another word. During this debate, many of the natives were present, chiefly the attendants and servants of Towha himself; and when Omai began to explain the punishment that would be inflicted in Eng- land upon the greatest man, if he killed the meanest servant, they seemed to listen with great attention ; and were probably of a dilferent opinion from that of their master on this subject. On the 4th, a party of us dined on shore with Omai, who gave excellent fare, consisting of rish, fowls, pork, and puddings. After dinner, 1 attended Otoo, who had been one of the party, back to his house, where I found all his servants very busy, getting a quantity of proviiioni re^dy for me. Amongst other articles, there \\ 212 VeVAGKS OF was a large hog, which they killed in rav presence. There was also a large pudding, the whole process in making which I saw. It was composed of bread- fruit, ripe plantains, taro, and palm or pandanus niits, each rasped, scraped, or heat up fine, and baked by itself, A quantity of juice, pressed from cocoa-nut kernels, was put into ^ large tray, or wooden vessel. The other articles, hot from the oven, were deposited in this vessel, and a few hot stones were also put in to make the contents simmer. Three or four men made use of sticks to stir the several ingredients, till they were in- corporated one with another, and the juice of the cocoa-nut was turned to oil, so that the whole mass, at ]ast, became of the consistency of a hasty-pudding. Some of these puddings are excellent ; and few, that we make in England, equal them. Otoo*s hog being baked, and the pudding, which I have described, being made, they, together with two living hogs, and a quan- tity of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts> were put into a canoe, ^nd sent on board my ship, followed by myself^ ^nd ajj the royal family. In the evening of the 7th we played off some fire- works before a great concourse of people. Some were highly entertained with the exhibition ; but by far the greater number of spectators were terribly frightened, mscmuch, that it was with difficulty we could prevail. upon them to keep together, to see the end of the show. A table- rocket was the last It flew off the table, and dispersed the whole crowd in ^ moment ^ even the most resoli^te among them fled with precipi- tation* Otoo was not more attentive to supply our wants by a succession of presents, than he was . to contribute tq our amusement by a sucfcession of diversions. A party of us having gone down to Oparre on the 10th, he treated us with what might be called a play. His three sisters were the actresses ; and the dresses that they appeared in were new and elegant ; that is, mure ^0 than we had usually met with at any of these islands. 1^ the evening >ve re^Mri^ed from Oparre» where we ■J CAPTAIN COOK. 2{% left Otoo, and all the royal fahiily ; and I saw none of them till the 12th; when all, but the chief himself, paid me a visit. He, as they told me, was gone to Attahooroo, to assist this day at another human sacritiee* which the chief of Tiaraboo had sent thither to be of- < fcred up at the morai. This second instance, within the course of a few days, was too melancholy a proof how numerous the victims of this bloody superstition are amongst this humane people. 1 would have been present at this sacrifice too^ had 1 known of it in time, ' fornow it was too late. The following evening, Otoo returned from exercis- ing this most disagreeable of all his duties as sovereign ^ and the next day, being now honoured with his com- pany, Captain Gierke and i, mounted on horseback, took a ride round the plain of Matavai, to the very- great surprise of a great train of people who attended on the occasion, gazing upon us with as much astonish- •^ ment as if we had been centaurs. Otiuii, ii^eed, had once or twice before this attempted to get on horse- back, but he had as often been thrown oif before he could contrive to seat himself, so that this was the first time they had seen any body ride a horse. What Cap- tain Gierke and I began, was after this repeated every day while we staid, by one or another of our people. And yet the curiosity of the natives continued still un- abated. 'I'hey were exceedingly delighted with these animals, after they had seen the use that 'was made of them ; and, as far as 1 could judge, they conveyed to them a better idea of the greatness of other nations, than all the other novelties put together that their i^u* ropean visitors had carried amongst them. in the morning of the 18th, iVJr. Anderson, myself, and Omai, went again with Otoo to Oparre, and' took with us the sheep which 1 intended to leave upon the island, consisting of an KnglisU ram and ewe, and three Cape ewes, all which 1 gave to Otoo. Atier dining with him, we returned to Matavai, leaving him at Oparre. 'i'his day, and also the liytb, we v^^ere very i.)arin£ly supplied with fruit. Otoe hearing oi this, ue m- " 214 VOYAGES or and his brother, who had attached himself to Captain Clerke, came from Oparrei between nine and ten o'cJock in the evening, with a large supply for both ships. This marked his humane attention more strongly than any thing he had hitherto done for us. The next day all the royal family came with presents ; so that our wants were not only relieved, but we had more provisions than we could consume. Having got all our water on board, the ships being caulked, the rigging overhauled, and every thing put in order, I began to think of leaving the island, that I might have sufficient time to spare for visiting the others in this neighbourhood. With this view we re- moved from the shore our observatories and instruments, and bent the sails. Early in the morning of the 22d, Otoo and his father came on board, to know when 1 proposed sailing : for, having been informed that there was a good haihbour at Eimeo, I had told them that 1 should visit that island on my way to fiuaheine ; and they were desirous of taking a passage with me, and of their fleet sailing at the same time to reinforce Towha. A% I was ready to take my departure, I left it to them to name the day ; and the Wednesday following was fixed upon, when I was to take on board Otoo, his fa- ther, mother, and, in short, the whole family. These points being settled, I proposed setting out immediately for Oparre, where all the fleet, fitted out for the ex- r edition, was to assemble this day, and to be reviewed. had but just time to get into my boat, when news >vas brought that Towha had concluded a treaty with Maheine, and had returned with his fleet to Attahou- roo. This unexpected event made all farther proceed- ings in the military .way quite unnecessary ; and the war canoes, instead of rendezvousing at Oparre, were ordered home to their respective districts. :^ I now returned on board my ship, attended by Otoo's mother, his three sisters, and eight more women. At first, I thought that this numerous train of females came into my boat with no other view than to get a passage to Matavai. But> when we arrive^ at the CAPTAIN COOK. 215 9hipi they told me, they intended passing the night on boards for the express purpose of undertaking the cure of the disorder i had complained of, which was a pain »f the rheumatic kind. 1 accepted the friendly oflfery had a bed spread for them upon the cabin floor^ and submitted myself to their directions. They began to squeeze me with both hands from head to foot^ but more particularly on the parts where the pain was lodged, till they made my bones crack, and my flesh became a perfect mummy. In short, aftp. undergoing this descipline about a quarter of an hour, I was glad to get away from them. However, the operation gave me immediate relief, which encouraged me to submit to another rubbing-down before I went to bed ; and it was so effectual, that I found myself pretty easy all the night after." My female physicians repeated their pre« scription the next morning before they went on shore, and again in the evening, when they returned on board, after which I found the pains entirely removed ; and the cure being perfected, they took their leave of me the following morning. This they call romee ;^ an operation, which, in my opinion, far exceeds the flesh- brush, or any thing of the kind, that we make use of externally. It is universally practised amongst these islanders j being sometimes performed by the men, but more generally by the women. ^ ^ u' :^ ,^> ; The war with Eimeo being finally closed, all our friends paid us a visit on the 26th ; and, as they knew that we were upon the point of sailing, brought with them more hogs than we could take off their hands: for, having no salt left to preserve any, we wanted no more than for present use. Our friend Omai got on,e good thing at this island, for the many good things he gave away. This was a very 6ne double sailing canoev completely equipped, and fit for the sea. Some time before, 1 had made up for him a suit of English co« lours i but he thought these too valuable to be used at this time ; and patched up a parcel of colours, such as fiags and pendants, to the number of ten or dozen, wluoh he spread on diflerent parts of his vessel, ail u i ,hr r •I wm 916 VOYAGES OP the same time, anil drew tog^-iher as many people t% Jook at her, as a man of war would, dressed, in a Ku- ropean port. These streamers of Omai, were a mix- ture of English, French, Spanish, and Dutch, which were all the European colours that he had seen. < Omai had also provided himself with a good stock of cloth and cocoa-nut oil, which are not only in greater plenty, but much better at Otaheitc, than at any of the Society Islands ; insomuch, that they are articles of trade. Omai would not have behaved so inconsistently, and so much unlike himself, as he did in many in- stances, but for his sister and brother-in-law, who, to- gether with a few more of their acquaintance, engrossed him entirely to themselves, with no other view than to strip him of every thing he had got. And they would undoubtedly have succeeded in their scheme, if 1 had not put a stop to it in time, by taking the most useful articles of his property into my possession. On the 28th,' Otoo came on board, and informed me, that he had got a cano«, which he desired I would take with me, and carry home, as a present from him to his Majesty, the King of Great Britain, whom he called Earee rahie no Tretane ; it being the only thing he said that he could send worth his acceptance. ] was not a little pleased with Otoo for this mark of his gra- titude. It was a thouglit entirely his own, not one of lis having given him the least hint about it; and it shewed, tliat he fully understood to whom he was in- debted for the most valuable presents he had received. As it was too large for me to take on board, I could only thank him for his good intention ; but it would have pleased him much better^ if his present could have been accepted. ,= . ,''. " , e ,' We were detained here some days longer than I expected, by. light breezes from the west. At length, at three o'clock in the afternoon of the 29ih, the wind came at east, and we weighed anchor. The frequent visits we had lately paid to this island, seem to have created a full persuasidn that the intercourse will not be 4iseontijiued» It was strictly enjoined to me Cy (Jtoo^ CAPTAIN COCK. 217 to request, in his name, the Karel^ rahie no Pretane, to send him, by the next ships, red feather^, and th^ birds that produce ihem ; axes ; half a dozen musketi* widi powder and shot ; and by no means to forget horses. If I could have prevailed upon Omaito fix himself at Otaheite, I should not have left it so soon as 1 did. For there was not a probability of our being Better or cheaper supplied with refreshments at any other place than we continued to be here, evert at the time of our leaving it. Besides, such a cordial friendship and Con- fidence subsisted between us and the inhabitants,' as could hardly be expected any where else ; and it was a little extraoirdinary, that this friendly intercourse had never once been suspended by any untoward accideiit, nor had there been a theft committed that deserVet (o be mentioned. '^ When the Spanish ships, which had some {Lue before touched here, left the island, four Spaniardis rema&<£fd behind. Two were priests, one a servant, and ttte fourth made hiniself very popular among the natives, who distinguish him by the nanfie of Matehial ' He seems to have been a person who had studied their fah- guage ; or, at least to h?.- e spoken' it so as to be under- stood; and to have taken uncommon piiins to impress the minds of the islanders with the most exalted ideas of the greatness of the Spanish nation, and to make them think meanly of the English. He even went so far as to assure them, that we no longer existed as an independent nation; that Pretane Vvas only a small island, which they, the Spaniards, had entirely dels- troy ed ; ancli for me, that ihev had met with' mie at sea, and, with a few shot, had seiit ftiy ship, ^Siid every soul in her, to the Iwtiom^, so that itiy visiting Otaheite, at this time, was of course veiy unexpected. With what design the priests iiayed we cannot giieys. If it was to convert the natives to the catholic faiitli, th^y have not succeeded inanyoneinsfancei Whfehth^/ had staid ten tiiohths> two shipscanie to Oftei'tepeha* took them on board; and s^il^d again in five days. This Biiiiiii^afli gMttbi wm Jii'fll!! 518 VOYAGES OF hasiy departure shews, that whatever desfgn the Spa- niards might have had upon this island, thev had now laid it aside ; yet, he(brc they went away, they would have the natives beKeve that they atill meant to return and to brin^ with them houses, all kinds of animals, and men and women, who were to settle, live and die on the island. Otoo said if the Spaniards should re- turn, he would not let them come to Matavai Forr which, he said, was ours. It was easy to see that the idea pleased him ; little thinking that the completion ,of it would, at once, deprive him of his kingdom, and the people of their libenies. This shews with what fecility a settlement might be made at Oiaheite ; which, grateful as I am for repeated good ofHces, 1 hope will never happen. We had no sooner anchored at the neighbouring island of Eimeo, than the ships were crowded with the inhabitants, whom curiosity alone brought on board j lor they had nothing with them for the purpose of barter. But, the next morning, this deficiency was applied ; several canoes then arriving from more dis- tant parts, which brought with them abundance of bread fruit, cocoa-nuts, and a few hogs. These they exchanged for, hatchets, nails, and beads ^ for red feathers were not 30 much sought after here as at Otaheite. In the morning of the 2d of October, Maheine, the <*ief of the island, paid me a visit. He approached the ship wah great caution, and it required some per- suasion ^o ^e I him en board. This ald-headed ; which is rather an unconi- mon appcjirance in these islands, at that age. He wore » kuid of turban, apil seemed ashamed to shew hii head. They had seen Wi shave the* head of one of their people, whom we had caught stealing , th*y therefore concluded that this was ilie punishmcMu usually inflicted t)v u» upon all thieves j and one or two of our gentle- fiien, whose heads w^\ m^ h M i 220. YOYAGES OF about the mode of bringing that plan to bear. I should have ha4 J»Q objection to adopt it. His father had been {dispossessed by the men o( Bolabola> when tivey con - x^uered Uii^tea,9f some land in that island, and 1 made no doubt of being able to get it restored to the son in an amicable manner. For i,hat purpose it was necessary that he should, b^ on good terms wiih those who now were masters. oif the island ; but he was too great a pa- triot to Jisten to any such thing; and was vain enough to suppose that I would reinstate him in his forfeited lands by force. This nwjde it impossible to fix him at Ulietea, and pointed out to me Huaheine as the proper , place. I, therefore, resolved to avail myself of the presence of the chief men of the island, and .to make this proposal to them. After the hurry of the morning was o/er, we got ready to pay a formal visit to Taireeiai e? 'e sove- reign, meaning then to introduce this business. Om^i dressed himself very properly on the occasion ; and .prepared a handsoipe present for the chief himfeif, and another for his liatooa. Indeed, after he had got "lear of the gang that surrounded him at Otaheite, he be- liaved with :-ch prudence as to gain respect. "VVe waited some time for Taireetareea, as 1 would do no- thing till the Earee lahie came j but when he appeared, X found that hjf p.resence might have been dispensed with, as he was not above eight or ten years of a^e, Omai, who stood at a little distance from this circle (f I ^reat men, began with making his oflerujg to the ^id^ i consisting of red leathers, cl( ih, &c. Jtath anic!u j laid before one of the company, who, 1 understoqd, wai a priest, and was delivered with a set speech or prayer, spokefl by one of Omai's friends, who sat by him, but mosfly dictated by himself. In these prayers he did not forget his friends in England, nor those who had brought him safe back, 1 he Earee rahie no Preiaiie, Lord Sandwich, Toote, Tatee^ (Cook and Cbrke,) were mentioned in every one of them. When -Jirai's "offerings and prayers were finished, the priest too^ ach article, in the same ord«r in which it had been laid CAPTAIN COOK. S!3l before him, and, after repenting a prayer^ sent It to the moral; which, as Omai told u», waA at a great d»staBC€y otherwise the offerings would have been made there. These religious ceremonies having been performed, Omai sat down by me, a.id we entered upon businesi. Omai's establishment was then proposed to the as- sembled chiefs. He acquaii»ted them, " That be had been carried by us into our country, where he was well received by the great King and his lilarees, and treated wiih every maik of regard and alfectioQ, while he staid amongst us?; that he had been brought back agaiu, enriched by our liberality, with a variety of articles, which would prove very useful to hi^ countrymen ; and that, besides the two horses which were to remain with him, several new and valuable animals had been left at Otaheite, which would soon multiply, and furnish a sufficieat number for the use of all the islands in the ■eighbour- hood. He then signified to them, rbait it was my earnest request, in return fur all my friendly offices^ that they would give him a piece of land, to build a house upon, and to raise provisions lor himsdf and ser« vants ; adding, that if this could not be obtained for him in Huahe'ne, either by gift or by purchase, I was determined to carry him to Ulietea, and fix him there." One of the chiefs immediately expressed himself to this tflect : " That the whole island of Uuaheine, and every thing in it, were mine; and that, therefore, I might give what portion of it I pleased to my friend." Omai was greatly pleased to hear this; thinking, ao ^oubt, that ] should be very liberal, and give him tiiwugh. But to offer what it would have been irapre« per to accept, I considered as offering nothing at all ; and, therefore, 1 now desired that they would not only assign the particular spot, but also the exact quantity of land, which they would allot for the settlement : and, after a short consultation among themselves, my request was granted by general consent ^ and the ground im- mediately pitched upon, adjoining to the house where T 3 !!i:^i^ 1 I 222 ' VOYAGES OF our meeting was held. The extent along the shore or the harbour, was about two hundred yards; and us depth, to the foot of the hill, somewhat more ; bur a proportional part of the hill was included in the grant. This business being settled to the satisfaction of alt parties, I setup a tent on shore, established a post, and erected the observatories. The carpenters of both ships v/ere also set to v^ork to build a small house for Oroai, in which he might secure the European commo- dities that were his property. At the same time, some hands were employied in makmg a garden for his use. JHe now began seriously to attend to his t)wn aflajrs, jnd repented heartily of his ill-judged prodigality \vhile ^taheite. He found at Huaheine, a brother, a 8\s r, and a brother-in-law ; the sister being married. But these did not plunder him, as he had lately been by his other relations. J was sorry, however, to disco* ver, that though they were too honest to do him any injury, they were of too little consequence in the island to do him any positive good. They had neither autho- rity nor influence to protect his person, or his property,* and, in that helpless situation. ] had reason to appre* hend, that he run great risk of being stripped of every thing he had got from us, as soon as he should cease to l)ave us within his reach. A man who is richer than his neighbours, is sure to be envied by numbers who wish to see him brouglit down to their own level. But in countries where civi- lization. Jaw, and religion, irhpose theii* restraints, the rich have a reasonable ground of security. \t was very dirterent with Omai t he was to live amongst those who are strangers, in a great measure, to any other prin- ciple «f action, besides the immediate impulse of their natural feelings. But, what was his principiat danger, he was to be placed in the very singular situation of I being the only rich man in the community to which hej was to belong. And having, by a fortunate connection with us, got into his possession an accumulated quantity I «f a species of treasures which none of his countrymen 4wuld cieaic by any art' or industry of their own, while CAPTAIN COOK. tQ^ lit coveted a share of this envied wealth, it was natu« ral to apprehend, that all would be ready to join in at« tempting to strip its sole proprietor. . •• *i» r;- To prevent this, if possible, I advised him to mak? -^-oper distribution of sonie of his moveables, to two or three of the principal chiefs; who, being thus gratified themselves, might be induced to take him under their patronage, and protect him from the injuries of otherai. He promised to follow my advice ; and I heard, with satisfactiunj before 1 sailed, that this very prudent step had been taken. Not trusting, howjpv^r, entirely tp the operations of gratitude, 1 had recourse ^o the more forcible motive of intimidation. With this view, 1 topic every opportunity of notifying to th^ inhabitants, thatlit was my intention to return to their island again, after being a!)$ent the usual time ; and thit if I did not find Omai in the same state of security in which 1 was nov^ to leave him, ail those whom I should then discover to have been his enemies, might expect to feel the weight of my resentment. r*: While we lay in this harbour, we carried on shor^ the bread remaining in the bread- room, to clear it of vermin. The number of cock-roache§ that infested the ship at this time is incredible ; the damage they did us was very considerable ; and every method devised by us to destroy them proved ineffectual. According to Mr. Anderson's observations, they were of two sorts, the blatta orientalis and germanica. 1 he Hrst of these had been carried home m the ship fpom her former voyage, where they withstood the severity of the hard winter in 1776, though she was in dock all the time. The others had only made their appearance since our leaving New Zealand; but had increased so fast, that when a sail was loosened, thousands of them fell upon the flecks. The orientalis, though in infinite numbers, scarcely came out but in the night, when they made every thing in the cabin seem as if in motion, from, their particular noise in crawling about. ■ V --- I'he intercourse of trade, and friendly offices, waf carried on between us and the natives^ without bein|j; ^ml w 224 voVages op disturbed by any one accident, till the evening of the Ss^d, when a man found means to get into Mr. Bayiey*s observatory, and to carry of! a sextant unobser\'ed. At soon as I was made acquainted with the theft, 1 went on shore, and got Omai to apply to the chiefs to pro- cure restitution. He did so ; but they took no steps towards it, being more attentive to a heeva that was then acting, till 1 ordered the performers of the exhibi- tion to desist. They were now convinced that I was in earnest, and began to make some enquiry after the thief, who was ^-uing in the midst of them, quite un- concerned, insomuch that I was in great doubt of his being the guilty person, especially as he denied it. Omai, however, assuring me that he was the man, I sent him on board the ship, and there confined him. This raised a general ferment amongst the afjt-mbled natives; and the whole body fled, in spite of all my endeavours to stop them. Having employed Omai to examine the prisoner, with some difHculty he was brought to confess where he had hid the sextant ; bur, as it was now dark, we could not find it till dav-ii^'ht the next morning, when it was brought back unhurt. After this, the natives recovered from their fright, and began to gather about us as usual. As the thief seemed to ue a very hardened fellow, I punished him with some severity. 'I'his, however, did not deter him ; for, in the night, between the 24th and 25th, a general alarm was spread, occasioned, as was said, by one of our goats being stolen by this very man. On examination, we found that all was safe in that quarter. Probably, the goats were so well guarded, that he could not put his design in execution. But h\s hostili- ties had succeeded against another object ; and it ap- peared that he had destroyed and carried off several vines and cabbagie plants in Omai*8 grounds ; and he publicly threatened to kill him, and to burn his bouse, as soon as we should leave the island. To prevent tlie £&11ow^ doing me and Onnai »ny more nuscAief, 1 had him seized, and confined again on board the ship, wiil^ a view of carrying him off the island ^ and it seemed to CAPTAIN cook. 225 {five general satisfaction to the cliiefs^ that I meant thui 10 dispose of him. Omai's house being nearly finished, many of his moveables were carried on shore on the 2§th. Amongsf a variety of other useless articles, was a box of toys, which, when exposed to piiblic view, seemed greatly to please the gazing multitude. But as to his pots, kettles, dishes, plates, drinking-mugs, glasses, and the whole train of our domestic accommodations, hardly jiiy one of his countrymen would so much as look a|: them. Omai himself noW began to think that they were of no manner of use to him; that a baked hog was more savory food than a boiled one ; that a plan-^ ain leaf made as good a dish or plate as pevvter ; and tii:^ a cocoa-nut shell was as convenient a goblet as a black jack. And therefore, he very v^^isely disposed o# as many of these articles of English furniture, for the kitchen and pantry, as he could find purchasers for,' amongst the people of the ships j receiving from them, in return, hatchets, and other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic value in this part of the world, and add- ed more to his distinguishing superiority over those with whom he was to pass the rerhainder of his dgys. Early in the morning of the 30th, the Bolabola man, when I had inconfinement,found means to make his escape out'of the ship. Upon enquiry, it appeared, that not only the sentry placed over the prisoner, but the whole watch, upon the quarter deck, where he was confined. had laicj themselves down to sleep. He seized the op- portu^nity to take the key of the irons out of the binna- cle drawer, where he had seen it put, and set himself at liberty. I was not a little pleased to hear, after- ward, that this fellow had transported himself to Ulie- tca. As soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation, | began to think of leaving the island ; and got every thfng off from the shore this evening, except the horse and mare, and a goat big with kid j which were left in the possession of our friend, with whom we were now iinaliy to part. I also gave him a boar and two sows of m ;i I!' Sta VOYAGKS OF the English breed ; and be had got a sow or two of his own. The history of Omai will, perhaps, interest a very numerous class of readers, more than any other occur- rence of the voyage. Every circumstance, tlierefore, which may serve to convey a satisfactory account of the exact situation in which he was left, will be thought worth preserving ; and the following particulars are add- ed, to complete the view of his domestic establishment. He had picked up, at Otaheite, four or five Toutous ; the two New Zealand youths remained with him ; and his brother, and some others, joined him at Huaheine ; 80 that his family consisted already of eight or ten per- sons J if that can be called family, tq which not a single female, as yet, belonged. At presetu Omai did not seem at all disposed to take unto himself a wift. The house that we erected for him was twenty-four feet by eighteen ; and ten feet high. It was settled that, immediately after our departure» he should begin to build a large house, after the fashion of his country, one end of which was to be brought over that wiiich we had erected, so as to inclose it entirely, for greater security. In this work, some of the chiefs promised to assist him ; and, if the intended building should cover the ground which he marked out, it will be as large as most upon the island. His European weapons consisted of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch box -, a fowling- piece 'y two pair of pistols ; and two or three swords or cutlasses. The possession of these made him quite happy ; which was my only vii w in giving him such presents. For I was always of opinion^ that he would have been happier without fire-arms, and other Euro- pean weapons, than with them ; as such implements of war, in the hands of one whose prudent use of them 1 had some grounds for mistrusting) would rather increase his dangers than establish his superiority. After ne had got on shore every thing that belonged to him, and was settled in his house, he had most of the officers of both ships» two or tluree times« to dmner ; and his table wai t ■ CAPTAIN COOK. 227 always well supplied with the very best provisions that the island produced. Before I sailed, I had the following inscription ci^t vpon the outside of hit house : Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777. ^T C Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr. ^aves ^ Discovery, Car. Clerke, Pr. On the 2nd of November, at four in the afternoo», I took the advantage of a breeze, which then sprung up at east, arid sailed out of the harbour. Most of our friends remained on board till the ships were under nil; when, to gratify their curiosity, I ordered five guns to be fired. They then all took their leave, ex- cept Omai, who remained till we were at sea. In an hour or two after he went on shore, taking a very affec- tionate farewell of all the officers. He sustained him- )elf with a manly resolution, till he came to me. Then his utmost efforts to conceal his tears failed ; and Mr. King, who went in the boat, told me that he wept ail the tin^ in going on shore, it was no small satisfaction to reflect, that we had brought hinr: ^fe back to the very spot from which he was taken. And yet, such i» the strange nature of human affairs, that it is probable we left him in a less desirable situation than he was in before his connection with us. Omai, from being much caressed in England, lost sight of his original condition ; and never considered in what manner his acquisitions, either of knowledge or of riches, would be estimated by his countrymen at his return ; which were the only things he could have to recommend him to them now, more than before, and on which he could build his future greatness or hap- piness. Rank seems to be the very foundation of ^H distinction here, and of its attendant, power ; and, so pertinaciously, or rather blindly, adhered to, that, un* less a person has some degree of it, be will certainly he despised and hated, if he assumes the appearance o^ exercising any authority. Tkii was reail/ the cmc^ m sm / \ 22S voYAGBS or ^bme measure, with Omai ^ though hi*i countrymeal Avere' pretty cautious of expressing their sentimentsi while we remained amongst them. Had he made al J)roper use of the presents he brought with him froml £ngland, this, with the knowledge he had acquired byl travelling so far> might have enabled him to form thel most useful connections. But we have already givenl instances of his childish inattention to this obvious meanil of advancing his interest. His schemes seemed to bel of a higher, though ridiculous, nature ; indeed^ I mightl say, meaner; for revenge, rather than a desire of be-| coming great, appeared to actuate him from th6 begin- ning. This, however, may be excused, if we considerl that it is common to his countrymen. His father wasj 'doubtless, a man of considerable property in UliefeaJ when that island was conquered by those of Bolabola ;| and, with many others, sought refuge in' Huah^ineJ ' where he fiied, and left Omai, with some other chil-| dren, who, by that means, became totally dependant.! In this situation he was taken up by Captain FurneauxJ and carried to England. Whether he really expectedj from his treatment there, that any assistance would bel given him against the enemies of his father and his coun- try, or whether he imagined that his own personal] courage, and supei'ority of knowled^*, would be suf- ficient to dispossess the conquerors of Ulietea, is uncer^ ' tain ; but from the beginning of the voyage, this wai his constant theme. He would not listen to our remon- ' strances on so wild ?; determination; but flew into; passion; if more moderate and reasonable counsels were • proposed for his advantage. As we advanced, howeverJ on oiir voyage, he became more sensible of his error ;| and, by the time we reached the Friendly Islands, had ' even such apprehensions of his reception at home, ttiatj he would fam have staid behind at Tongataboo, under Fenou*s protection. At these islands he squandered away much of his European treasure, very unnecessa^ rily.' At Matavai, he continued the same inconsideratd -b«:havioar; till I absolutely put a stop to his jprofuj w n -CV ea. IS uncer* CAPTAIN COOK. ,25P Vf'bether the retfiains.of his European wealth, which, after all his improvident waste, was still considerable, will be more prudently administered by him, or whe- ther the steps I touk, as aheady explained, to insuFC him protection in Huahcine, shall have proved tflTec- tuai, must be left to the decision of future navigators of this ocean ; with whom it cannot but be a principal object of curiosity to trace the future fortunes of our traveller. V\ hatever faults belon'^ed to Omai's charac- ter, they were more than oveibalanced by his great good-nature, and docile disposition. During the whole time he was with me, I very seldom had reason to be seriously displeased with his general conduct. His grateful heart always retained the Highest sense of the favours he had received in England ; nor will he ever forget those who hunoured him with their protection and friendship during his stay there. He had a tolerable share of understanding, but wanted application and per- severance to exert it ; so that his knowledge of thing* was very general, and, in many instances, imperfect. He was not a man of much observation. There were many useful arts, as well as elegant amusements, amongst the people of the Friendly Islands, whicji he might have conveyed to his own, where they probably would have been readily adopted, as being so much in their own way. But I never found that he used, the least tndeavour to make himself master of any one. 'I'liis kind of indiilerence is, indeed, the characteristic foible of his nation. We are nor, therefore,, to expect th:u Omai will be able to introduce many of our arts and customs amongst tjhem, or much improve those to which they have been long habituated. 1 am confident, however, liiat he will endeavour to bring to perfection, the various fruits and vegetables we planted, which will be no small acquisition. But the greatest benefit these islands are likely to receive from Omai's travels, will be in the anitijals that have been left upon them; which, probably, they .never would have got, had he m>i coTT.e to iuigland. When these multiply,^ of which I think .:thcre i» Tittle doubt, Otaheiie, and the Society u • i(tii HMi 230 VOYAGES 99 Islandfl, will equaf, if not exceed^ any place in the known world, for provisions. Omai*8 return, and the substantia! proofs he brought back with him of our liberality, encouraged many to olfer themselves as volunteers to attend me to Pretane. I took every opportunity of expressing my determina- tion to reject all such applications, if thera had been the most distant probability of any ship being again sent to New Zealand, I would have brought the two youth* of that country home with me, as both of them were very desirous of continuing with us. Tiarooa, the eld- est, was an exceedingly well-disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and capable of receiving any in- struction. He seemed to be fully sensible of the in* feriority of his own country to these islands, and resign- ed himself, though perhaps with reluctance, to end his days in ease and plenty, in Huaheine. Bi'* the other was so strongly attached to us, that he w? ken out of the ship, and carried on shore by forct^. Ag was a witty, smart boy f and on that account much noticed on board. The boat which carried Omai on shore, (never to join us again,) having returned to the ship, we hoisted her in, and immediately st«od over for L/lieiea, vviiere I intended to touch next. On the 4th we arrived in the harbour of Ohamaneno, and were visited by Oreo, the chief of the island, with whom 1 interchanged civilities and presents. On the (5th, we set up the ob- servatories, and got the necessary instruments on shore, Though we had separated from Omai, ^ye were stiil near enough to have intelligence of his proceedings- and I had desired to hear from him. Accordingly, about a fortnight after our arrival at Ulietea, he sen: two of his people in a canoe ; who brought me the sa- tisfactory intelligence, that he remained undisturbed by the people of the island, and that every thing went veil with him, except that hi& goat had died it\ kM\n^, tie accompanied this intelligence -with a request* that I would send him another goat, pnd two ai^es. Being ^^PPy ^^ ^^^^ ^^' additional opportufiity q(' serving J brought many to Pretane. stermina- had been igain sent ,vo youths hem were f the eld- man, with g any in- of the in* ind resign- to end his the other ken out of 4.1e was a uch noticed CAPTAIN COOK. ~ ^ 231 Kim, the messengers were sent to back to Huaheine, on the 18th» with the axes, and two kids, male and female, wliich were spared for him out of the Dit* covery. On the t4th9 I was informed that a midshipman and a seaman, both belonging to the Discovery, were miss- ing. As the midshipman was known to have expressed a desire to remain at these islands» it seemed pretty certain that he and his companion had gone off witn this intention ; and Captain Gierke set out in (}uest of them» with two armed boats, and a party of marines. His expedition proved fruitless, for he returned in the evening without having got any certain intelligence where they were. From the conduct of the natives. Captain Gierke seemed to think that they intended to conceal the deserters ; and with that view, had amused him with false information the whole day^ and directed him to search for them in places where they were not to be found. The captain judged right ; for, the next norningj we were told that our runaways were at Otaha. As these two were not the only persons in the ships who wished to end their days at these favourite islands, in order to put a stop to any further desertion, it was necessary to get them back at all events; and that the natives might be convinced that I was in ear- nest, I resolved to go after them myself. Accordingly, I set out the next morning, with two armed boats> being accor.ipanied by the chief himself. 1 proceeded, as he directed, witnout stopping any vrhere, till we came to the middle of the east side of Otaha. But when we got to the place where we ex- pected to find them, we were told, that they had quit- ted this island, and gone over to Bolabola the day be- fore. 1 did not think proper to follow them thither ; but returned to the ships j fully determined, however, to have recourse to a measure, which, I guessed, would oblige the natives to bring them back. Soon after day- break, the chief, his son, daughter, and son-in-law, came on board the Resolution. Ihe three last I resolved to detain, till thie two deserters V9 2^2 Voyages of should be brought back. With this view, Capta'm" Ckrke inViied them to go on board his ship ; arid as soon as they arrived there, confined them in his cabin. '^I'he chief was with me when the news reached him. He immediately acquainted mn with it, supposing that this step had been taken wiihoyt my knowtedge, and consequently without my approbation, t instandy un- deceived him; and then he began to have apprehtn. $ions as to his own situation, and his looks expre^^cd the utmost perturbation of mind But 1 soon made hini easy as to this, by telling him that he was at liberty to leave the ship whenever he pleased, and to tak/e such jmeasures as he should judge best calculated to get our two men back ; that if he succeeded, his friends oa Jjoard ihe Discovery should be delivered up ; if not, that I was di?termined to carry them away with me. Oreo himself did not give way tp unav-tiling lament tations, but instantly began his exertions to recover our deserters, by dispatching a canoe to Polabola, with a message to Opoony, the sovereign of that island, ac- quainting him with wh^t had happened, and requesting him to seize the two fugitives, and send them back. 'J he messenger, who was no less a man ihan the father of Footoe, Oreo's son-in-law> before he set out, came to receive my commands. I'he consequence, however, of the prisoners, wa$ so great, that the natives did not think proper to trust to the return of our people for their release ; or, at least, their impatience was so great, that it hurried them to meditate an attempt which might have involv, !ta them in still greater distress, had it not been for- tunately preventea. Between five and six o'clock in the evening, 1 observed that all their canoes, in and about the harbour, began to moye olf, as if some sudden panic had seized them. 1 was on shore abreast of the ihip, at the time, and enquired in vain, to find out the tause, till our people called to us from the Discovery, and told us that a parfy of the natives had seized Cap- lain Clerke and Mr. (rore, who had walked out a little ^'ay from the shipst Struck with the boldness of M ) ; arid a» nis cabin. :hed him. Dsing that jdge, and ;an\ly U'.i- appr<&h£'n- )reG-cd the niade him t liberty to tak/e such i to get our friends on up *, if not, kvith me. iling lamcn- recover out bola, with a t island, ac- d requesting them back. n the father t out, came isoners, wai per to trust ease j or, at t it hurried have involve lot been for- ix o'clock in anoes, in and some sudden breast of ihe ^ 6nd out the le Discovery, seized Cap- ed out a little jdness of tni^ CAPTAIN COOK. 23:* plan of retaliation^ which seen.ed to counteract me so effectually in my own way, there was no time to de- liberate. I instantly ordered the people to arm ; and, in less than five minutes, a strong party, under the cemmand of Mr. King, was sent to rescue our two gen- tlemen. jAx the same time^ two armed bor.ts, and a party under Mr, Williamson, went after the flying ca- noes, to cut oflf their retreat to the shore. These seve- ral detachments were hardly out of sight, before an account arrived that we had been misinformed ; upon v^hich I sent and called ihtm all in. It was evident, however, from several corroborating circumstances, that the design of seizing Captain Gierke had really been in agitation amongst the natives. I^ay, they made no secret in speaking of it the next day. fiut their first and great plan of operations, was to have laid hold of me. It was my custom every evening, to bathe in the fresh water. Very often I went alone ; and always without arms. Expecting me to go, as usual, this evening, they had determined to seize me, and Captain Gierke, too, if he had accompanied me. But I had, after confining Oreo's family, thought it pru- dent to avoid patting r.nyself in their power r and had cautioned Captain Gierke, and the officers, not to go far from the ships, in the course of the adernoon, the chief asked me three several times, if 1 would not go the bathing place ; and when he found, at last, that 1 could not be prevailed upon, he went off, with the rest of his people, in spite of all that 1 could do or say to stop him. But as I had no suspicion, at this time, of their design, I imagined that some sudden fright had seized them, which would Bs usual, soon be over. Find- ing themselves disappointed as to me, they fixed on ihose who were more in their power. It was fortunate, f^r all parties, that^they did not succeed ; and not less fortunate, that no mischief was done on the occasion. For not a musket was fired, except two or three, to stop the canoes. To that firing, perhaps, Messrs. Ik ike and Gore owed their safety; for, at that very iwstanr, a party of the native's, armed with clubs, were (J3 'W r/: U!?( ■ i ?34 VOYAGES OP advancing toward tliem ; and, on hearing the report of the muskets, they dispersed. * < Oreo, the chief, being uneasy, as well as myself, that no account had been received from Boiabola, set out the evening of the i^Sth, for that island, and de- sired me to follow down the next day with the ships. This was my intention ; but the wind would not admit of our getting to sea. But the same wind, which kept ut in the harbour, brought Oreo back from Bolabola with with the two deserters. They had reached Otaha the same night they deserted ; but, finding it impossible to gc-t to any of the islands to the eastward, for want of wind, ihey had proceeded to Bolabola, and from thence to the small island Toobaee, where they were taken. As soon as they were on board, the three prisoners were released. Thus end^d an affair which had given lue much trouble and vexation. Nor would I have ex- erted myself so resolutely on the occasion, but for the reason before- mentioned, and to save the son of a bro- ther officer from being lost to his country. 'Ihe wind continuing contrary, confined us in the harbour till the morninir of the 7ih of December: when we took the. advantage of a light breeze an north-east, and, with the assistance of all ihe boats, got out to sea. As soon as we had got clear of the harbour, we took our leave of Ulietea, and steered for Bolabola. Oreo, and six or eight men mure, took a passage with us. My sole object in visiting this island was, to get possessioa of an anchor which M. Bur, we took bola. Oreo, with us. My et possession lost at Ota- the chief of ;ate hatchets, expended in ' wanted to iS ; and soon chief, in the ,ving no time compliments 1 anchor, and m, consisting C^fTAIN Cp©K. 235 ^f a linen night-gown^ a shirr, some gauze handker- chiefS| a looking-glass, son^ie bepfd^i and other toys ; and six axes. jUpop the jec^ipt of these presents, he ordered it to be delivered. Having thus completed my negotiation, I returned on board, hoisted, in the l)oat$i. and made s^il (torn the island to the north. Personal endowments beipg in great esteem amongst the Qtaheiteans, th^y h^ve recourse to several methods of improving them, according to their notions of btauty. "iThis. IS done by remaining a month or two in the house; during which time they w^ar a geat quantity of clothes, and eat nothing but bread-fruit, to which they ascribe a remarkable property in wHitening ihem. I'heir com- mon diet is made up of, at least, nine-tenths of vf;ge- table food ; ^and it is, perhaps, Owing to this temperate course of life that they have so few diseases among them. They only reckon five or six, which might be called chronic, or national disorders. Their behaviour, on all occasions, seeins to indicate a great openness and gene- rosity of disposition. J never saw them, in any misfor- tune, labour under the appearance of anxiety, after the critical moment was past. Neither does care ever seem to wi inkle their brow. On the contrary, even the approach of death does not apr^^'ar to alter their usual vivacity. , They express theii tions of death very emphatically, by saying, that " the soul goes into dark- nessj" or rather into night. Their language is so co- pious, that for the bread-fruit alone, in its ditfe «;nt states, they have above twenty names ; as many lor the taro root j and about ten for the cocoa-nut. The tiriliis of eating, at Otaheite, are very fi '^quenl). Their first meal is about two o'clock in the morning, after which they go to sleep j and the next is at eight. At eleven they dme ; and "^ain, at two, and a^ e ; and sup at eight. 1 .lie women have not only tht mor- tification of being obliged to eat by themselves, and in 'k different part of the, house from the men, but, .by % strange kind of policy^ a,re excluded from a share of most of the better sorts of food. 1 he women, gene- rally, s^rye up theit owt) victuals 5 for they woulJ cer- m ,'^ if .1:4 ■;4'i % !23<>* V€>VA«E§ Oil rainly starve, hekre any grmvn man would d© t>icni such an oHice. When we enquired into the reatoni of it| we cou^d get no ether answer, but that it it right and necessary that it should be se. I'hey believe the sout to be both immatemt and im* mortal. I'hey say that k keep« •uttering about the lips during the pangs of death ; and that then it ascends, and mixes with, or, as they express it, is eaten by the deity. In this state it remains fw some time ; aft^ which it departs to a certain place, destined fer the i«. ception o( the souls of men, where it exists in eternal night. I'hty have no idea of any permanent punish- ment after death ; for the souls of^' good and ot ba(j[ men are eaten indiscriniinatety by God. Accordinj^ to their doctrine, if a man refrain frum ai*l eonneetion with women some months before death, he passes imme« diate^y into bis eiernat mansion. Sume of their- notions about the deity are e^^travagantiy absurd. 1 heyv believe that he is subject to the pov\er of those very spirits to whom he has given existence ; and that, in their turn, they frequeAtiy eat ov devour him, I'hough he possesses the power of re*crtaii»g himself. When the moon is in its wane, it i« said, that they are then devouring their Eatooa ; and that as it increases, he i» renewing kimself. 1 hey have traditions con^cerning the creation, which, as might be expected, ai?e complex, and ebuded with ob€curity. ll)ey say that a goddess, having a lump or n>ass of earth suspended in a cord, gave it i swing, and scattered about pieces of bnd,. thus con- stituting Otaheiie, ?nd she neighbouring islatkle, which were all peopUrd by a i»an and woman originally 5xe4 3j Otaheitc. The spets observed in th« moon, are sup> posed to be grm-es q4 % sort of trees which once grew in Otaheite, and beiag destroyed by some accident, their jeed^s were earned up thither by dov€«, where they now fk)uri«b. Monday, Deccimber the &th, after leaving Bolabofs, I sceeredi to the noFthward, with the wind generally east/ward, till after wt had crossed the line, and had goi iuK) the AorUi Uiiuidti, (kveiH'Mh moBthi hafc; cbiiiparci.) idI the thickest and richest velvet, which ihey rcsenfiblw floth as to the leel, "and ihe glu!,iy a^^vearance. I hundreds t)f CAPTAIN COOK. 241 The cap is made almost exactly like a helmet, with the middle part, or crest, sometimes of a hand's breadth; and it sits very close upon the heady having notches to admit the ear. It is a frame of twigs and osiers, cover* ed with a net- work, into which are wrought feathers, in the same manner as upon the cloaks, though rather closer, and less diversified. These, probably, complete the dress, with the cloaks ; for the natives sometimes appeared in both together. We were at a loss to guess whence they could get such a quantity of these beauti* ful feathers, but were soon informed ; for they after- wards brought great numbers of skins of small red birds for sale. f / ' •, .' > Next day one of our visitors, who offered some (ish- hooks for sale, was observed to have a very small par- cel tied to the string of one of them, which he separat- ed with great care, and reserved for himself, wheh he parted with the hook. Being asked what it was, he pointed to his belly. It struck us that it might be hu- man flesh. The question being put to him, he answered, that the flesh was part of a man. Another of his coun« trymen, who stood by him, was then asked, whether it wa« their custom to eat those killed in battle ; and he immediately answered in the affirmative. After leaving Atooi, as, this island was named, we proceeded to Oneeheow, on the coast of which we an- chored. Six or seven canoes had come off to us, before we anchored, bringing some small pigs and potatoes, and a good many yams and mats. The people in them resembled those of Atooi.}.4ind seemed to be equally weU acquainted with the use of iron, which they asked for also by the names o(hamiteaind.toe; parting readily with all their comnioidities for pieces of this precious metal. . On the j(0th, >I sent Mr. Gore on shore, with a guard of marines, and a party to trade with the nativet lor refreshments. The weather soon became very unpro- pitious) ^^^d. *the<^sea- r^n so high that we had no man- ner 9f (^m^^^ipAtictfi with our party on shore ; and even the uativei themselTet durst not venture out to the ihip» ' ■ '■'■" -^- X ' '■ ' >• ■'l' !• f>i ■\>n\ 2iS voYA^oBs or in their cahoes. In the evening of next dayi I sent the master in a boat up to the south-east liead> or point of the idand, to try if he «ottM land under it. U« return- ed with a favorablie report ; but it was too late now to send for our parfy tiU the next morning ; a^nd thus they had another night to improve liheir intercourse with the aatives. Encouraged by the master's report^ I went myself with the pinaacCy and laiuich^ up to the point, to bring the party oa board ; taking with me a ram-goa,t and two ewieff, a boar and sow pig, of the Engljith breed ; and the scieds of ineloDSf pum^ins, and onions; being very desirous of benefiting these poor people, by fur- nishing them with soine additional articles of food. I found my party already there* with some of the natives in company. To .one of them, whom Mr. Gore had observed assum'mg soQie command^ 1 gave the goats, pigs, and seeds. On Monday, the 3d of February* we stood away to the northward, in prosecution of our voyage. Our ship procured, from these iaiandi* provisions sufficient for three weeks, at least f and Captain Clerkej more for- tunate, obtained, of their vegetable productions, a sup- ply, that lasted his-^ople upwards of two months. Oh the 3d of i£«bruary, we ateered away to the northward, and without meeting with any thing memo- rable, on !the 7 th of March, the iong-loolted-fur coast of New AlliMoa wat seen, extending from north east to south-east, distant ten or twi^lve leagues. The land ap- peat>ed to be of a moderate height^ diversified with hili» and valleys, and^almost every whepe^oovered with utocd. Alkec coasting along, and cohlbating contrary wind'i on the 2&'ch we .anchored in^eighty-ftve (athoms watec* so near the shore as to reach i( with a hawzer.. We no sooner ~« ^.. ,5*-»r-.*i»<-,u;-?JlBiKj!jt'i:,-. '^msrim^ i^^t 246 VOYAGES OP they could ; preparing sticks, and coilocting stones. On hearing this, I thought it prudent to arm also. However, our fears were ill grounded ; these hosiile preparations were not directed against us, but against a body of their own countrymen, who were coming to fight them ; and our friends of the sound, on observing our apprehensions, used their best endeavours to con- vince us that this was th? case. At length, the diHer- ence* whatever it was^ seemed to be compromised; but the strangers were not allowed to come along-side the ships, nor to have any trade or intercourse with us: probably we were the cause of the quarrel. We resumed our work in the afteinoon, and continu- ed the repairs of the vessels without inienuption ; and other necessary busines. Bad weather now came on ; but that did not, however, hinder the natives from vi- siting us daily. 'Ihey frequently brought us a tolerabe supply of fisn, either sardines, or what resembled them much, a small kind of bream ; and sometimes small cod. On the 18th, a party of strangers, in si\ or eight ca- noes, came into the cove, where they remained look- ing at us for some time> and then retired, without com- ing along 'side either ship. We suppose d i hat our old friends, who were more numerous about us than these new visitors, would not permit them to have any in- tercourse with us. We also found that many of ihe principal natives, who hved near us, carried on a trade with more distant tribes, in the articles they had pro- cured from us. tor we observed that Uiey would fre- quently disappear for four or five days at a time, and then return, with fresh cargocM of skins and curiosities, which our people were so passionately fond of, tnat they alws^ys came to % good market. Nothing would go down with our visitors but metals; and brass had by this time supplanted iron, being so eagerly s«)ught after, that, before we left this plact, hardly a bit of it was left in ih«: ships, except what l^elrnged ^o our necessa- jFy instrui;petits. Whole suits of clothes vvere stripped of every button ; bureaus of their furniture ; and copper kettlesj tin cannisters^ ca^idle-st^cks^ and the lik^^ al' went to wieck. i CAPTAIN COOK. 247 After a fortnight's bad weaiher, the 19th proving a fair day, we availed ourselves of it, to get up tbe top- masts and yards, and to fix up the rigging. And, hav- ing now finished most of our heavy work, 1 set oiit next morning to take a view of the sound. 1 first went to the west point, where 1 found a large vjllage, I'he people received me very courteously. In most of, the houses were women at work, making dresses of the plant or bark before mentioned, which they executed exactly in the same manner that the New Zealanders manufacture their cloth. Others were occupied in opening and curing fish. 1 now found, by traversing a few miles west of this village, what I had before conjectured, that the land, under which the ships lay, was an island ; and that there were many smaller ones lying scattered in the sound, on the west of it. Opposite the north end of our island, upon the main land, 1 observed a village, and there 1 landed. The inhabitants of it were not so polite as those of the other. But this cold receptiou seemed owing to one surly chjef,^ who would not let me enter their houses, following me Nyherever J, wen^; and several times, by expressive signs, marking his im- patience that I should be gone, ijomc of the yo,ung women, better pleased with us than was their inhospi-?, table chief, dressed themselves expeditiously in their best apparel, and welcomed ys, by joining; in a song, which was far from disagreeable. The day being now far spent, I proceeded for the ships. W hen 1 got on board, 1 v/as informed thai while i was absent, they had been visited by some strniigers, who, by signs made our people understand, that they had cfjme Irom the south-east, beyond the Bay. I'hey brought several skins, garments, and other articles,, which they bartered. But what was most singular, two. silver table spoons were purchased from them, which, from their peculiar shape, we supposed to be of Sp-^nish manufacture. One of these strangers wore them round, l»is neck, by way of ornament. 1 4tt»*.at aaistests. .^ i ^MkJii-,fmiii: j^ww**! ;,fe:.':w«*ataii,' # i'Jl ■■» ^ ! ■: ^ >l 248 VOYAGES OF Captain Clerke and I went in the forenoon of next ^ay, with two boats, to the village at the west point of the sound. When 1 was there the day before, 1 had observed that plenty of grass grew near it ; and it was necessary to lay in a quantity of this, for the few goats and sheep which were still left on board. 1 he inhabi- tants received us with the same demonstrations of friendship which I had experienced before ; and the moment we landed, 1 ordered some of my people to begin their operation of .cutting. I had not the least imagination tfjat the natives could make any objection to our furnishing ourselves with what seen\ed to be of no use to them, but wasdUicessary for us. However, I wa^tfiistaken ; for the moinent that our men began to cut, some of the inhabitants interposed, and would net }>ermit them to proceed, saying they must niakook; that is, must first buy it. 1 bargained with them for it, and thought that we were now at liberty to cut wherever we mistake ; for ts: leased. But here again I was under a , .w. ...e liberal manner in which 1 had paid the first pretended proprietors, brought fresh demands upon me from others ; and so many oT them were to be satisfied, that I very soon emptied my pockets. When they found that I really had nothing more to give, their importunities ceased, and we were permitted to cut wherever we pleased, and as jnuch as we chose to carry away. Every thing being now ready, in the morning of the 26th, I intended to have put to sea j but both wind and tide being against us, was obliged to continue where we were. At lour o'clock in the afternoon, we had every ibrerunner of an approaching storm : this made me he- sitate a little, whether I should venture to sail, or wait till the next morning. But my anxious impatience to proceed upon the voyage, made me determine to put to sea at all events. Our friends, the natives, attended us, till we were almost out of the sound ; some on boa»i the ships, and others in their canoes. To one of their chiefs, who had attached himself to me, I presented a new broad- sword, with a brass hili i the possession of it ; and it was CAPTAIN COOK. ^49 which made him completely happy. I make no doubt that whoever cames after me to this place, will find the natives prepared with no inconsiderable supply of skins j an article of trade which they could observe, we were eager to pcsess, and which we (ound could be purchased to great advantage. On my arrival in this inlet, I had honoured it with the name of King George's Sound; but I afterwards found, that it is called Nootka by the natives. The harbours and anchoring-places, within its circuit, are numerous. The land bordering upon the sea-coast is of a middling height and level ; but within the sound it rises almost every where into steep hills, which agree in their general formation, ending in round or blunted tops, with some sharp, though not very prominent, ridges on their sides. Some of these hill« may be reckoued high. On quitting the sound, I bore away, steering north* west ; in which direction 1 supposed tlie coast to lie* At half past one in the afternoon, it blew a perfect hnr- ricane, so that 1 judged it highly dangerous to run any longer before it, and therefore brought the ships to, Ai this time the Resolution sprunk a leak. It was n9 sooner discovered, than the fish-room was found to be full of water, and the casks in it afloat ; but this was in a great measure owing to the water not finding its way to the pumps through the coals that lay at the boitoih ot the room. For after the water was bailed out, which etnployed us till midnight, and had found its way directly from the leak to the pumps, it appeared that one pump kept it under, which gave us no small satis- faction. At seven in the evening, on the 1st of May, we got sight of land, which aijounds with hills, but one considerably out-tops the rest ; this I called Mount Edgcumbe. It was wholly covered with snow ; as were also all the other elevated hiiis ; but the lower ones, and the flatter spots, bordering upon the sea* were free from it, and covered with wood. On the ^rd, we saw a large inlet, distant six leagues ; and the 'ii; i 'm-': mi ^56 VOYAGES OP most advanced pomi of the land, lying under a very high peaked mountaip, which obtained ihe name o Jljount Fair ff'eat/ier. Ihe inlet was named Cross Souvd, as being first on that day so marked in curl caletider. On the 10th, we lound ourselves no more than three leagues from the coast of the continent, which extended as far as the eye could reach, lo ihe westward of this last direction was an island, that ex- tended from north to south, distant six leagues. A point shoots out from the main toward the north-east end of the island, about five or six leagues distant, 1 his point I named Cape Suckling. On the 11 th, I bore up for the island. At ten o'clock in th)3 morning I went in a boat, and landed upon ir^ with a view of seeing what lay on the other side ; but Unding it farther to the hills than 1 expected, and the way being steep and woody, 1 was obliged to drop the design. At the foot of a tree, on a little eminence not far from the shore, 1 left a bottle with a paper in it, on which were inscribed the names of the ships, and the date of our discovery. And along with it I inclosed two silver twopenny pieces of his majesty's coin, of the date 1772. These, with many others, were furnished me by the Kev. Dr. Kaye, (now Dean of Lincoln,) and, as a mark of my esteem and regard for that gentleman, J named the Island after him, Kaye's Island, h is ele- \en or twelve leagues in length, but its breadth is not above a league, or a league and a naif, in any part of t. On this island there are a considerable number of pines, and the whole seems coveted with a broad girdle of wood. In the passage from the ship to the shore, we saw a great many lovvls sitting upon the water, or flying about in flocks or pairs ; the chief of which were a few quebrantahuessoses, divers, ducks, or large peterels; gulls, shags, and burres. At the place where we land- ed, a fox came from the verge of the wood, and eytd us with very little emotion, wa king leisurely without any s\gns of fear. He was of a rtdaish-yeiiow colo'jr, CAPTAIN COOK. 251. [lilce some of the bkins we bought at Nootka, but not of [jiarge size. We were now threatened with a fog and a storm, land 1 wanted to get into some place to stop the leak» before we encountered another gale. These reasons induced me to steer for an inlet, which we had no sooner reached, than the weather became so foggy, that we could not sec a mile before us, and it became ne- cessary lo secure the ships in some place, to wait for a clearer sky. With this view, 1 hauled close under a cape, which I now called Cap€ Hinchinhrokt, and an- chored before a sn^all cove, a httle within the cape, [and about a quarter of a mile from the shore. At some short intervals the fog cleared away, and have us a sight of the lands around us. The western- most point we had in sight on the north shore, bore porih north-west half west, two leagues distant. Be- tween this point and the shore, under which we were at anchor, is a bay about three leagues deep ; on the jouth-east side of winch there are two or three coves, luch as that before in which we had anchored ; and iix the middle some rocky islands. To these islands Mr. iGore was sent in a boat, in hopes of shooting some leatable birds. But he hardly got to them, before about Itweniy natives made their appearance in two large jcanoes; on which he thought proper to return to the IS, and they followed him. I hey would not venture ialung side, but kepi at some distance, hallooing aloud, land alternately clasping and extending their arms ; and, linashort time, began a kind of song exactly after the manner of ihoae at Nojika. 1 heir leads w<;re also [powdered with feathers. One man held out a white l^arnient, which w<; interpreted a^ a sign of friendship ; land another stood up in ihc cange, qu.ie naked, for al- 1081 a quarter of an hour, wuh hi^ ar»r;s btreiched out |lib a cross, and motionless. 'J'hough we returned all Jbeir signs of friendship, and, by every expressive ges- ture, tried to eacou:age thcoa to come alon^-»iue, v^e 3u!d not prevail. . , .. > .'^1 !'ii»''3i^aSSr.'^ si^fitl LI: '• m '2ti VOYAGES OF At ten o'clock next morning we gut under sail, jr order to look out for some place where we might searel for and stop the leak; our present station being u much exposed for this purpose. The natives, who visit. ed \is the preceding evening, came off again in the morning, in five or six canoes, but not till we were un- der sail ; and, although they followed us for some timej they could not get up with us. At eight o'clock the violence of the squalls obliged us to anchor in a bay. 'Ihe weather, bad as it was, did not hinder three of the na- ■ tives from paying us a visit. The treatment these men met with, induced many more to visit us, between one and two the next morning, in both great and small ca< noes. A lew ventured on board the ship, but not tilj some of our people had stepped into their boats Amongst those, who came on board, was a good look- ing, middle-aged man, whom we afterwards found lo be the chief. He was clot^icd in a dress made of the sea-otter*s skin ; and had on his head such a cap as iil worn by the people of King George's Sound, ornament, i^d with skyblue glass beads, about the size of a large pea He seemed to set a much higher value upon these than upon our white glass beads. Any sort oi beads, however, appe^ cd to be in high estimation witii these people; and they readily gave whatever theJ }iad in exchange for them; even their fine sea^ottei jkins. - - ■ These people were also desirous of iron; but the^ Wanted pieces eight or ten inches long at leasts and the breadth of three or four fingers. The points oj S( me of their sptars or lances were q^ that mefal others were of copper, and a few of bone, of which.ili , ipcitits of their darts, arrows, Sr^S. were composed.. ,, tiould rot prevail upon the cnief to' trust himsellbeki\j ' the upper deck ; nor did he and hfs companions remaij *fohg oh "board. But while we had their corr»panv,i| was ftecessafy to tvafch tlidm-pwrrowfy, as ibey soon be trayed a thievish disposition. At leflgth> after bein( about three or four hours along-sido the Kesolutici^ tl.ey all leu her, and went to the D'scovery, >viierfj between one CAPTAIN COOK. $S3 after looking dowi: the hatchways, and seeing nobody but the officer of tlic watch, and one or two n^ore, he no doubt thought they might plunder her with ease, especially a? she lay at sonie distance ,from us. It was unquestionably with this view that they ail repaired to her. Several of them, without any ceremony, went on board, dew their knives, made signs to the officer and people on deck to keep oflf, and began to Iook about ihem for plunder. The first thing they met with was the rudder of one of the boats, which they threw over- board to those of their party who had remained in their canoes. Before they had time to nnd another object that pleased their fancy, the crew were alaimed, and began to come on deck, armed with cutlasses. On seeing this, the whole company of plunderers sneaked otf in their canoes, with as much deliberation and indif- ference as if they had done nothing amiss ; and they were observed describing to those who had not been on board, how much longer the knives of the ship's crew were than their own. Just as we were going to weigh the anchor, to pro- ' ' ceed farther up the bay, it began to blow and to rain as hard as before ; so that we were obliged to veer away the cable again, and lay fast. 'I'oward the even- ing, finding that the gale did not moderate, and that it might be some time before an opportunity offered to get higher up, I came to a resolution to heel the ship where we were. In heaving the anchor out of the boat, one of the seamen, either through ignorance or carelessness, or both, was carried over-board by the buoy-rope, and followed the anchor to the bottom. It is remarkable, that in this very critical situation, he had presence of mind to disengnge himself, and come up to ihe surface of the water, where he was taken up, with one of his legs fractured in a dangerous manner. 'ihe leak being stopped, which was found to be in the seams, at four o'clock in the morning of the 17th, we wevghed and steered to the north-westward, with a ' light breeze at east north -cist ; thinking, il there should M any passage to the north through this inlet, that it > Y 254 VOYAGES OF must be in that direction. We were now upwards of five hundred and twenty leagues to the westward of any part of Hudson's Bay. Next morning, at three o'clock, we weighed, and, with a gentle breeze at north, pro- ceeded to the southward down the inlet, and met with the same broken ground as on the preceding day. How- ever, we soon extricated ourselves from '\U Next even- ing we were again in the open sea, and found the coast trending west by south, as far as the eye could reach. To the inlet, which we had now left, I gave the name of Prinre tVilliani's Sound, On May the 21st, 1 steered to the south-west, and passed a lofty promontory. As the discovery of it was connected with the Princess Ehzabeth's birth-day, I 113 med it Cape Elizabeth, Beyond it we could see no land, so that at first we were in hopes that it was the western extremity of the continent ; but not long after "We found our mistake, for fresh land appeared in sight, bearing west south-west. We continued our course with little variation, observing many high mountains, near the coast till the 30th, when we anchored in nine- teen fathoms water under the eastern shore. About noon two canoes, with a man in each, came oIT to the ship, from near a place where we had seen some smoke the preceding day. They laboured very hard in paddling across the strong tide ; and hesitated a little before they would come quite close ; but, upon signs being made to them, they< approached. One of them talked a great deal to no purpose ; for we did not understand a word he said. He kept pointing to the shore, which we interpreted to be an invitation to go thither. They accepted*of a Xew trifles from me, which I conveyed to them from the quarter gallery. When the flood made, we weighed, and stood over to the western shore with a fresh gale at north north- east. This, with the other on the opposite shore, con- tracted the channel to the breadth of four leagues. T'hrough this channel ran a prodigious tide; As we proceeded farther up, the marks of a river displayed themselves. The water was found .to bt fresher j in^ CAPTAIN COOK. 255 somuch that 1 was convinced that we were in a large river, and not in a strait communicating with tke Ner> thern Seas. But I was desirous of having stronger proofs, and therefore weighed with the next flood, in the morning of the 31st, and plied higher up, or rather drove up with the tide ; for we had but little wind. About eight o'clock we were visited by several of the natives, in one large and several small canoes. The latter carried only one person each ; and some had a paddle with a blade at each end, after the manner of the Esquimaux. Soon after, we came to an anchor, about two leagues from the west shore. The Weather was misty, with drizzling rain, and clear by turns. At the clear intervals, we saw an opening between the mountains on the eastern shore, bearing east from the station of the ships, with low land, which we supposed to be islands laying between us and the main land. From these appearances, we were in some doubt whe- ther the inlet did not take an easterly direction, through the above opening ; or whether that opening was only a branch of it, and the main channel continued its nor- thern direction through the low land now in sight. To determine this point, and to examine the shcr.ls, I dis- patched two boats, under the command of the master ; and as soon as the flood-tide made, followed with the ships. We had now many evident proofs of being in a great river. Early next morning, being the 1st of Jane, the mas- ter returned, and reported that he found the inlet, or rather river, contracted to the breadth of one league, by lowland on each side, through which it took a northerly direction. He proceeded three leagues through this narrow part, which he found navigable for the largest ships. While the ebb or stream ran down, the water \va8 perfectly fresh ; but, after the flood made, it be- came brackish j and towards high-water, very mucin so, even as high up as we went. All hopes of finding a passage were now given up. However, J dispatched two boats, under the command of Lieutenant King, to examine the tides, and to mak6 Y2 B '■- Ik:; ... ,l S5fi VOYAGES or . such other observations as might give us some insight into the nature of the river, which J shall distinguish by the name of River lurnagain. By means v\ this river, and its several branches, a very extensive inland communication seems to he (pen. VVe had traced it seventy leagues, or more, from its entrance, without .seeing the least appearance of its source. In the afternoon I sent Mr. King again, with two aimed boats, with orders to land on the northern point of the low land, on the south-east side of the river, there to display the flag; to take possession of the country and river in his majesty's name ; and to bury in the ground a bottle, containing some pieces of .English coin, of the year 1772, and a paper, on which was inscribed the names of our ships^ and the date of our discovery. \ e weiged anchor as soon as it was high-water; and with a faint breeze, southerly, stood over to the west shore, where the return of the flood obliged us to an- chor early next morning. Soon after several large and some small canoes, with natives, came off, who barieied their skins ; after which they sold their garments, till many of them were quite naked. In plying down the river, a good many of the natives came off. Their company was very acceptable ; for they brought with them a large quantity of very fine salmon, which they exchanged for such trifles as we had to give them. Most of it was split ready for drying; and several hundred weight of it was procured for the two ships. In the afternoon of the i?d of June, the mountains, for :he first lime since our entering the river, were clear of clouds ; and we discovered a volcano in one of those on the west-side, li did not make any striking appearance, emitting only a white smoke, but no fire. * The wind remaining southerly, we continued to tide it down the river. Bt^fore we left this place, six canoes came off from the east shore ; some conducted by one, "and others by two, men. 'Ihey remained at a little I distanpe fron^ the ships, viewing them with a kind of j CAPTAIN COOK. 257 silent surprise, at least half an hour, without exchang- ing a single word with us, or with one another. At length they took courage, and came along- side, began to barter with our people, and did not leave us till they had parted with eveiy thing they brought with them, consisting of a few skins and some salmon. Most of the skins, which we purchased here, were made up into garments. However, some of these were in good condition ; bi^r others were old ^and ragged enough. But as these poor people make no other use of skins but for clothing themselves, it cannot be sup- posed that they are at the trouble of dressing •more of them than are necessary for this purpose. And perhaps this is the chief use for which they kill the animals ; for the sea and the rivers seem to supply them with their principal articles of food. Jt would probably be much otherwise, where they once habituated to a constant trjide with foreigners. " Nothing interesting happened till the 18rh, when, having occasion to send a boat on board the Discovery, one of the people in her shot a very beautiful bird of the hawk kind. Jt is somewhat less than a duck, and of a black colour, except the fore part of the head, which is white ; and from above and behind each eye arises an elegant yellowish white crest, revolved back- ward 3s a ram's horn. 1 he bill and ftet are red. We iiad for some days seen these birds in large flocks. On the 19th, being near the shore, the Discovery fired three guns, brought to, and made the signal to speak with us. A boat was immediately sent to her, and in a short time returned with Captain Gierke. I now learned from him, that some natives, in three or four cnnoes, who had followed the ship for soir.e time, at length got unaer his stern. One of them then made many signs, taking olf his cap and bowing, alter the manner of Europeans. A rope beini? hande*.! down from the ship, to this he fastened a sintiil thin wooden case or box j and having delivered this sate, and spoken something, and made some more signs, the canoes dropped astern, and left the Discovery. No Y3 ' iH i-:i^'i ■^'■iJt. .iuiiiTJA^. " » .! I, il I ; 258 VOYAGES OF one on board her had any suspicion that the box con- tained any thing, till aftir the depariure of the canoes, when it was accidentally opened, and a piece of papir was found folded up carefully, upon which something was written in the Russian language, as was supposed. The date 1778 was prefixed to it j and, in the b(jdy of the written note, there was a reference to the year 1766. Not learned enough to decypher the alphabec of the writer, his numerals marked sufficiently that others had preceded us in visiting this dreary part of the globe, who were united to us by other ties besides those of our common nature ; and the hopes of soon meeting with some of the Russian traders, could not but give a sensible satisfaction to those who had, for auch a length of time, been conversant with the savages of the Pacific Ocean, and of the continent of North America. Captain Gierke was at first of opinion, that some Russians had been shipwrecked here ; and that these unfortunate persons, seeing our ships pass, had taken this method to inform us of their situation. Impressed with humane sentiments, on such an occasion, he was desirous of stopping till they might have time to join us. But no such idea occurred to me. I rather thoui^lit that the paper contained a note of information, 'eft bv some Russian trader, who had lately been amongst these islands, to be delivered to the next visiters.' Fullv convinced of this, 1 did not stay to enquire any farther into the matter, but made sail, and stood away to the westward. We continued to run all night, with a gentle breeze at north-east ; and, at two o'clock next morning, some breakers were seen within us, at the distance of two miles. The breakers forced us so far from the con- tinent, that we had but a distant view of the coest. Over some adjoining islands, we could see the main land covered with snov/ ; but particularly some hilh, whose elevated tops were seen towering above the clouds, to a most stupendous height. 'J'he most south* \v€8tcrly of these hills was dibtovered to have a volcnir^ CAPTAIN COOK. .259 which continually tiirew up vast columnsof black smoke. It stands not far from the coast. It is also remarkable from its figure, which is a complete cone ; and the vol- cano is at the very summit. in the afternoon, having three hours calm, cur people caught upwatds of a hundred halibuts, some of which weighed a hundred pounds. I'his was a very season- able refreshment to us. In the height of our fishing, a small canoe, conducted by one man, came to us from the large island. On approaching the ship, he took ofT his cap, and bowed. It was evident that the Russians must have communication and traffic with these people; not only from their acquired politeness, but from the note before mentioned. But we had now 2 fresh proof of it ; for our present visiter wore a pair of green cloth breeches, and a jacket of black cloth or stuff, under the gutshirt of his own country. He had nothing to barter, except a grey fox-skin, and some fishing imple- ments or harpoons; the heads of the shafts of which were neatly made of bon»-. On the morning of the ^5th, we got a breeze easter- ly ; and, what was uncommon with this wind, clear weather ; so that we not oMy sa'v the volcano, but other mountains, both to the east and west of it, and all the coast of the main land under them, much plainer than at any lime before. The weather, in the after- noon, became gloomy, and at length turned t© a mist, so thick that we could not see a hundred yards before us. We were now alarmed at hearing the sound of breakers on our larboard bow. On heaving the lead, we found twenty-eight fathoms water. 1 immediately brought the ship to, and anchored over a bottom of coarse sand. A few hours after, the fog having cleared a little, it appeared that we had escaped very imminent danger. We found ourselves three quarters of a mile from the north-east side of an island. l\vo elevated rocks were about half a league each from us, and about the same distance from each other. I'here were several breakers i^bout themi and yet Providence had, in th^ dark. HIP|»II!,P «WSi|ip! lIW|pJli.,pr m id ill ■m :! ''Ml \Ui nj ?60 VOYAGES OP cmducted the ships through between these rocks, which 1 should not have ventured in a clear day, and to such an anchoring place that 1 could not have chosen a better. On a point, which bore west from the ship, three quarters of a mile distant, were several natives and their habitations. To this place we saw them tow in two whales, which we supposed they had just killed. A few of them now and then came off to the ships, and bartered a few trifling things with our people ; but never remained above a quarter of an hour at a time. On the contrary, they rather seemed shy ; and yet we could judge that they were no strangers to vessels some- thing like ours. They behaved with a degree of po- liteness uncommon to savage tribes. At day-break on the 28th, we weighed with a light breeze at south, which was succeeded by variable light airs from all directions. But as there ran a rapid tide in our favour, we got through before the ebb made. We came to anchor in t\^nty-eight fathoms water, pretty near the southern shore. While we lay here, several of the natives came ofT to us, and bartered a few fishing implements for tobacco. One of them, a young man, overset his canoe, while along-side of one of our boats. Our people caught hold of him ; but the canoe went adrift. 1 he youth, by this accident, was obliged to come into the ship ; and he went down into my cabin upon the first invitation, without expressing the least reluctance or uneasiness. His own clothes being wet, 1 gave him others, in which he dressed him- self with as much ease as 1 could have done. From his behaviour, and that of some others, we were convinced that these people were no strangers to Europeans, and to some of their customs. But there was something in our ships that greatly excited their curiosiiy ; for such as could not come olf in canoes, assembled on the neighbouring hills to look at them. boon aiter we anchored, a native of the island brought on board such another note as had been given to Cap- tain Clerke. lie presented it to ipe j but it was writ- lim : but the ibled on the CAPTAIN COOK. 201 ten in the "Russian language, which, as already ob- served, none of us could read. As it could be of no use to mc, and might be of consequence to others, 1 returned it to the bearer, and dismissed him with a few presents ; for which he expressed his thanks, by making several low bows as he retired. Thick fogs and a contrary wind detained us till the 2d of July. In the morning of the lOth, we found ourselves nearer the land than we expected. Here, between two poinis, the coast forms a bay, in some parts of v.'hich the land was hardly visible from the mast-head. 1 sent Lieutenant Williamson, with orders to land, and see what direction the coast took, and what the country produced ; for, from the ships, it had but a barren appearance. Soon after, Mr. VVilliamson returned, and reported, that he had landed on the point, and having climbed the highest hill, found that the farthest part of the coast in sight bore nearly north. He took possession of the country in his Majesty's name, and left on the hill a bottle, in which was inscribed, on a piece of paper, the names of the ships, and the date of the discovery. The promontory, to which he gave the name of Cape Nexvenham, is a rocky point of tolerable height. 1 he hills are naked ; but on the lower grounds grtvv gra?' and othe;- plants. He saw no other animal but a doe and her fawn j and a dead sea-horse, or cow, upon the beach. From the 16th to the 2ht, nothing material occur- red. On the 21st, we were obliged to anchor, to avoid running upon a shoal, which had only a depth of five left. While we lay here, twenty-seven men of the country, each in a canoe, came off to the ships, which they approached with great caution ; hallc;oing and opening their arms as they advanced. This we under- stood was to e xpress their pacific inientionso At length some apptoaclied near enough to receive a iew trifles that were thrown to them. This encouraged the rest to venture along-side, and a traffic pn:;sently commenc- ed between them and our people. Ihey resembled r ^hi :«' 1/ TtV ■ ;'^TH rif^"''^ •"""•"•"• M m MM .Mr- 2(*'2 VOYAGES OF the other natives of the coast ; and appeared to be wholly unacquainted with people like us ; they knew not the use of tobacco ; nor was. any foreign article seen in their possession, unless a knife may be looked upon as such. This indeed was only a piece of common iron, fitted in a wooden handle, so as to answer the purpose of a knife. Variable winds, with rain, prevailed till the 3d of August. Mr. Anderson, my surgeon, who had been lingering under a consumption for more than twelve months, expired between three and four this afternoon. He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his own profession, and had acquired considerable knowledge in other branches of science. The reader of this journal will have observed, how use- ful an assistant I had found him in the course of the voyage ; and, had it pleased God to have spared his life, the public, I make no doubt, might have received from him, such communications, on various parts of the natural history of the several places we visited, as would have abundantly shewn that he was not unworthy of this commendation. Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to the westward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island, and, to per- petuate the memory of the deceased, for whom 1 had a very great regard, I named it Anderson^s Island. At ten in the morniijg of the 5th, with the wind at south west, we ran down, and anchored, between an island and the continent, in seven fathoms water. 'J'his island, which was named Sledge Island, is about four leagues in circuit. 1 landed here, but saw neither shrub nor tree, cither upon the island or on the continent. "J'hat people had lately been on the island, was evident from the marks of their feet. We found, ntar where we landed, a sledge, which occasioned this name being given to the island. It seemed to be sucii an one as the Russians in Kamtschatka make use of over the ice, or snow. Jt was ten feet long, twenty inches broad, and had a kind of rail-work on each side, and was sLod with bone. The construction of it was admirable^ and CAPTAIN COOK. £?G3 all the parts neatly put together. After several obser- vations from the tith to the 9th, I was satisfied that the whole was a continued coast. I tacked, and stood away for its north-west part, and came to an anchor near a point of land, which I named Cape Prince of ff'ales, h is the western extremity of all America hitherto known. At day-break, in the morning of the 10th, we re- sumed our course to the west ; and about ten o'clock we anchored in a large bay, two miles from the shore. As v/e were standing into this bay, we perceived on the north shore, a village, and some people, whom the sight of the ships seemed to have thrown into confusion rr fear. At these habitations I proposed to land, and accordingly went, with three armed boats, accompanied with some of the officers. About thirty or foriy men, each armed with a spontoon, a bow and arrows^ stood drawn up on a rising ground close by the village. As we drew near, three of them came down toward the shore, and were so polite as to take off their caps, and to make us low bovj. We returned the civility ; but this did not inspire them with sufficient coufidence to wait for our landing ; for the moment we put the boats on shore, they retired. I followed them alone, and by signs and gestures, prevailed on them to stop, and re- ceive some trifling presents, in return they gave me two fox-skins, and a couple of sea-horse teeth. They seemed very cautious, expressing their desire, by signs, that no more of our people should be per- mitted to come up. A few beads distributed to those about us, soon created a kind of confidence ; and, bv degrees, a sort of traffic between us commenced, in exchange for knives, beads, tobacco, and other articles, they ^^ave us some of their clothing, and a few arrows. But notning that vve had to olTer, could induce them to part with a spear or a bow. These they held in constant readiness, never once quitting them, except at one time, when four or five persons laid theirs down while ihey ^ave us nvenient, I hauled into' a bay that lies ten miles to the westward of Samganood- ha, known by the name of Egoochshach ; but we fou::i very deep water, so that we were glad to get out a^nin. The natives, many of whom lived here, visited us at diflferent times, bringing with them dried salmon, and other fish, which they exchanged with the seamen for tobacco. But a few days before, every ounce of tobacco that was in the ship had been distributed among ihem; gnd the quantity was not half sufficient to answer their l-i CAPTAIN COOK. 269 demands. Notwithstanding tiiis, so unprovident a crea- ture is an English sailor, that they were as profuse in makihg their bargains, as if we had arrived at a port in Virginia. In the afternoon of the 3d, we anchored in Samganoodha Harbour ; and the next morning, th« carpenters of both ships were set to work to overhaul and repair the ships. On the 8th, 1 received by the hands of an Oonalashka man, named Derramoushka, a very singular present, considering the place. It was a rye loaf, or rather a pye made in the form of a loaf, for it inclosed some salmon, liighly seasoned with pepper. This man had the like present for Captain Gierke, and a note for each of us, written in a character which none of us could read, Jt was natuial to suppose that this present was from some Hussians row in our neighbourhood, and therefore we sent by the s^^me hand, to these our unknown friends, a few bottles of rum, wine, and porter. 1 also sent along with Derramoushka, Corporal Lediard, of the marines, an intelligent man, in order to gain some far- ther information, with orders that, if he met with any Eussians, he should endeavour to make them understand Ihat we >vere English, the friends and allies of their yiation. Pn the 10th, Lediard returned with three Kussian ?eamen, or furriers ; who with some others resided at Egoochshach, where they had a dwelling-house, some store-houses, and a sloop of about thirty tons burthen. They were all three well-behaved intelligent men, and yery ready to give me all the information I could desire. Put for want of an interperier, we had some difficulty eo understand oach other. On the 14tti, in the evening, while Mr. Webber and I were at a village, at a small distance from Sam- ganoodha, a Russian landed there, who I found was the principal person amongst his countrymen in this and the neighbouring islands. His name was Erasim Gre^ gorioffSin Ismylcff. He arrived in a canoe carrying three persons, attended by twenty or thirty other canoes, ^«ch -fondut'cd by one man. i took notice that the lii I IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I I^|2j3 |25 u l&i 12.2 •U -.n ■12.0 U£ ll^ll'll'-* "^ 6" ► Photographic Sdences Corporation 33 WiST MAIN SYKlitT WIBSTER.N.Y. 14SS0 (716) S72-4503 ♦.J 270 VOYAGES OP first thine they did, after landing, was to make a smaA tent for Tsmyloff, of materials which they brought with them; and then they made others for themselves, of their canoes and paddles, which they covered with grass ; so that the people of the village were at no trou- ble to find them lodging. IsmytofT, having invited us into his tent, set before us some dried salmon and ber- ries ; which, I was satisfied, was the best cheer he had. He appeared to be a sensible intelligent man ; and I felt no small mortification in not being able to converse with him> unless by signs, assisted by figures, and other characters ; which however were a very great help. I desired to see him on board ths next day ; and accord- ingly he came with all his attendants. 1 found that he was very well acquainted with the geography of these parts, and with all the discoveries that had been made in them by the Russians. On see- ' ing the modern maps, he at once pbinied out their errors. From what we could gather from Ismyloff and his countrymen, the Russians have made several at- tempts to get a footing upon that part of the continent that lies contiguous to Oonalashka and 'he adjoining is- lands, but have always been repulsed by the natives, whom they describe as a very treacherous people. 'J hey mentioned two or thr»e captains or chief men, who had been murdered by them j and some of the Russians shewed us wounds which they Isaid they had received there. In the morning of the 22d, we made an attempt to get r^ sea, with the wind at south-east, which miscar- ried. The following afternoon, we were visited by one Jacob Ivanovitch Soposiiicoif, a Russian, who command- ed a small vessel at Oomanak. This man had a great share oi modesty and intelligence. After we became acquainted with these Riissian as also hogs and fowls, Having no doubt that the people would return to the ships next day, with the produce of their country* I kept plying ulf all ui^ht ; aud in the; .morning stood CAtTAIN COOK. 273 close in shore. At first, only a few of the natives vi- sited us; but toward noon we had the company of a good many, who brought with them bread-fruit, pota- toes, taro, or eddy roots, a few plantains, and small pigs ; all of which they exchanged for nails and iron tools. In the afternoon of the 30th, being off the north east end of the island, several canoes came cd to the ships. Most of these belonged to a chief named Terreeoboo, y/ho came in one of them. He made me a present of two or three small pigs ; and we got by barter, from the other people, a little fruit. After a stay of about two hours, they all left us, except six or eight of their company, who chose to remain on board. A double sailing canoe came soon after to attend upon them ; which we towed astern all night. In the evening, we discovered another island to the windward^ which the natives call Owhyhee. On the 1st of December, at eight in the morn-ng, finding that we could fetch Owhyhee, 1 stood for it ; and our visitors from another island, called Mowee, not chusing to accompany us, embarked in their canoe, and went ashore. I^ext morning we were surprised to see the summits of the mountains of Owhyhee covered with snow. As we drew near th»^ shore, some of the natives came off to us. They were a little shy at first ; but we soon enticed some of them on joard, and at last prevailed upon them to return to the island, and bring off what we wanted. Having procured a quantity of sugar cane, and find- ing a strong decoction of it produced a very palatable beer, I ordered some more to be brewed for our gene- ral use. Biit when the cask was now broached, not one of my crew would even so much as taste it. I myself and the officers continued to make use of it, whenever we could get materials foi: brewing it. A few hops, of which we had some on board, improved it much. It has the taste of new malt beer j and i be- lieve no one will doubt tf its being very wholesorot. 274 VOYAGES OF Yet my inconsiderate crew alledged that it Was injuriou* to their healili. Every innovation whatever on board a sh p, though ever so much to the advantage of seamen, is sure to meet with their highest disapprobation. Both portable soup and sour krout ucre at first condemned as stuiT unfit for human beings. Few commanders have intro- duced into their ships more novelties, as useful varieties of food and drink, than I have done. It has, however, been in a great measure owing to various httle devia- tions from established practice, that I have been able to preserve my people, generally speaking, from that dreadful distemper, the scurvy, which has^ perhaps, de- stroyed more of our sailors in their peaceful voyages^ than have fallen by the enemy in military expeditions. 1 kept at some distance from the coast till the 13th, when I stood in again ; and, after having had some trade with the natives, who visited us, returned to sea. At day -breaks a dreadful surf breaking upon the shore» which was not more than half a league distant, it was evident that we had been in the most imminent danger. !Nor were we yet in safety, the wind veering more easterly, so that for some time we did but just keep bur distance from the coast. In the afternoon of the 30th, some of the natives came off in their canoes, bringing with them a few pigs and plantains. We continued trading with the peopid till four in the afternoon ; when, having got a pretty good supply, we made sail, and stretched oflf to the northward. 1 had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve and suspicion, in my intercourse with any tribes of savages, as we experienced in the people of this island, it was very common for them to send up into the ship the several articles they brought olT for barter; afterward, they would come in themselves, and make their bargains on the quartti-deck. I'he people o( Otaheite, even after our repeated visits, did not care to put so much confidence in us. On the 23d, we tacked to the southward, and had hopes of weathering the island. We shgjuld have sue- CAPTAIN COOK. 275 cpeded, if the wind had not died away, and left us to the mercy of a great swell, which carried us fait to- ward the land, which was not two leagues distant. At length lome light puffs of wind, which came with ahowers of rair>i put us out of danger. While we lay, as it were becalmed, several of the islanders came off mtk hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots. At four in the after- noon, after purchasing every thing that the natives had brought off, which was full as much as we had occasion for, we made sail, and stretched to the north. At mid- night we tacked, and stood to the south-east. Upon a supposition that the Discovery would see us tack, the signal was omitted ; but she did not see us, as we after- ward found, and continued standing to the north ; for, at day- light next morning, she was not in sight. At six in the evening, the southernmost extreme of the island bore south-west, the nearest shore seven or eight miles distant j so that we had now succeeded in getting to the windward of the island, which .we had aimed at with 80 much perseverance. The Discovery, however, was not yet to be seen. But the wind, as we had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, I concluded that i\ would not be long before she joined us. We began to be in want of fresh provision on the 30th. At ten o'clock next morning, we were met by the islanders with Iruit and roots ; but in all the canoes were only three small pigs. Before day>break the atmosphere was again loaded with heavy clouds ; and the new ytar was ushered in with very hard rain, which continued at intervals till jvas^ tep o'clock. We lay to, trading with the inhabi- tants till three o'clock in the afternoon ; when, having a tolerable supply, we made sail, with a view of proceed- ing to look for the Discovery. Ihe three following days were spent in running down the south-east side of the island. On the 5th in the morning, we passed the south point of the island. On this there stands a pretty large village, the inhabitants of which thronged off to the ikip with hogs apd women, h was not possible tp keep 270 VOYAGES or the latter from coming on board. This part of the country, from its appearance, did not seem capable of affording any vegetables. Marks of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a volcano, every \^here presented themselves : the devastation that it had made m this neighbourhood, was visible to the naked eye. Between ten and eleven next morning, we saw with pleasure the J^iscovery coming round the south point of the island ; and, at one in the afternoon, she joined us. Captain Gierke then coming on board, informed me, that he had cruised four or five days where we were separated, and then plied round the east side of the island ; but that, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been carried to some distance from the coast. He had one of the islanders on board all this time, who had remained there from choice, and had refused to quit the ship, though opportunities had offered. For several days we kept, as usual, standing off and on, with occasional visits from the natives. At day- break, on the 1 6th, seeing the appearance of a bay, I sent Mr. Biigh, with a boat from each ship, to examine it, being at this time three leagues off. Canoes now began to arrive from all parts; so that before ten o'clock, there were not fewer than a thousand about the two ships, most of them crowded with people, and well laden with hogs, and other productions of the island. One of our visitors rook out of the ship a boat's rudder. He was discovered ; but too late to recover it. 1 thought this a good opportunity to shew these people the use of fire-arms ; and two or three muskets, and as many four- pounders, were fired over the canoe which carried olT the rudder. As it was not intended that any of the shot should take effect, the surrounding multitude of natives seemed rather more surprised than frightened. In the evening Mr. Bligh returned, and reported that he had found a bay, in which was good anchorage and fresh water. Here f resolved to tarry the ships to refit, a;id supply ourselves with every refreshment the place could afford. Numbers of our visitors requested per- mission to sleep on board. Curiosity was not the ooiy CAPTAIN COOK. S77 motive, at least with some ; for the next morning, se- veral things were missing, which determined me not to entertain so many another night. At eleven o'clock in the forenoon we anchored in the bav, which is called by the natives Karakakooa. The ships continued to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multitude of canoes. 1 had nu where, in the course of my voyages, seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place. For, besides those in canoes, all the shore was covered with specta- tors, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships like shoals of fish. We could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene ; few now lamented our having failed in our endeavouring to find a northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappoint- ment we owed our having it in our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich our voyage with a dis- covery which, though the last, seemed, in many re- spects, to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Europeans, throughout the extent of the Pa- cific Ocean. i* At this island ended both the journal and the exist- ence of Captain Cook, whose melancholy end we are now about to relate ; which, with an account of the re- mainder of this unfortunate voyage, was written by Lieutenant King, in whose words we will continue it. Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the Island of Owhyhee, in a district called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and bounded by two low points of land at the distance of half a league from each other. On the north point, which is flat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa ; and in the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa-nut trees, there is another village of a more considerable size, called Kakooa. This bay appearing to Captain Cook a proper place to refit the ships, and lay in an additional supply of water and provltioaSf we moored on the north side. As soon A a 278 VOYAGES OF 39 the inhabitants perceived our intention of arichntin^ in the bay, they came oflf from the shore in astonishing numbers, and expressed their joy by singing and shout- ing, and exhibiting a variety of wild and extravagant gestures. Among the chiefs that came on board the Resolution, was a young man called Pareea, whom we soon per- ceived to be a person of great authority. On present- ing himself to Captain Cook, he told him that he was jakance to the king of the island, who was at that tim« engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return within three or four days. A few presents from Captain Cook, attached him entirely to our interests, and he became exceedingly useful to us in the management of his countrymen, as we had soon occasion to experience ; for we had not been }ong at anchor, when it was observed, that the Discovery had such a number of people hanging on one side, as occa« sioned her to heel considerably ; and that the men were unable to keep off the crowds which continued pressing into her. Captain Cook, being apprehensive that she might suffer some injury, pointed out the danger to Pareea, who immediately went to their assistance, cleared the ship of its incumbrances, and drove away the canoes that surrounded her. The authority of the chiefs over the inferior people, appeared, from this incident, to be of the most despotic kind. A similar instance of it happened the same day on hoard the Resolution, where the crowd being so great as to impede tAe necessary business of the ship, we were obliged to have recourse to the assistance of Kakeena, another of their chiefs, who had hkewise attached him- self to Captain Cook. The inconvenience we laboured under being made known, he immediately ordered his countrymen to quit the vessel ; and we were not a lit- tle surprised to see them jump overboard without a inoment*s hesitation. Both these chiefs were men of strong and well pro- portioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably pidaiiog) Kakeena^ especially, was me of the finest CAPTAIN COOK. 279 men I ever saw. lie was about six feet high, had re- gular and expressive features, with lively dark eyes; his carriage was easy, firm, and graceful. Ihe inhabitants had hitherto behaved with great fair- ness and honesty, but we now found the case exceed- ingly altered. The immense crowd of islanders which blocked up every part of the ships, not only afforded frequent opportunity of pilfering, without risk of dis- covery J but our inferiority in number held forth a pros- pect of escaping with impunity, in case of detection. Another circumstance, to which we attributed this al- teration in their behaviour, was the presence and en- couragement of their chiefs -, for generally tracing the booty into the possession of some men of consequence, we had the strongest reason to suspect that these depre- dations were committed at their instigation. Soon after the Resolution had got into her station, our two friends, Fareea and Kakcena, brought en board a third chief, named Koah, who, we were told, was a priest, arrd had been, in his youth, a distinguished war- rior. He was a little old man, of an emaciated figure ; his eyes exceedingly sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous scurf, the effects of an immode- rate use of the ava. Being led into the cabin, he ap- proached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along with him. Then stepping a few paces back, he made an offering of a sraiali pig, which he held in his hand, whilst he pronounced a discourse that lasted for a considerable time. When this ceremony was over, Koah dined with Captain Cook ; eating plentifully of tvhat was set be- fore him ; but, hke the rest ot the inhabitants of the islands in these seas, could scarcely be prevailed on to taste a second ttme our wine or spirits. Jn the evening. Captain Cook, attended by Mr. Bayly and myself, ac- companied him on shore. We landed at the beach| and were received by four men, who carried wands tipt with dog's hair, and marched before us, pronouncing With a loud voice, a short sentence, in which we could 230 VOYAGES OP only distinguish the word Orono, a title they always gave to Captain Cook. The crowd which had been collected on ihe shore, retired at our approach; and not a person was to be seen, except a few lying pros- trate on the ground, near the huts of the adjoining vil- lage. fie fore 1 proceed to relate the adoration that was paid to Captain Cook, and the peculiar ceremonies with which he was received on this fatal island, it will be necessary to describe a morai, or burying-place, si- tuated at the south-side of the beach at Kakooa. It was a square solid pile of stones, about fortv yards long, twenty broad, and fourteen in height. The top was flat, and well paved, and surrounded by a wooden rail, on which were Hxed the sculls of the captives sacri- ficed on the death of their chiefs. In the centre of the area, stood a ruinous old building of wood, connected with the rail on each side, by a stone wall, which di- vided the whole space into two parts. On the side next the country were five poles, upwards of twenty feet high, supporting an irregular kind of scaffold ; on the opposite side, toward the sea, stood two small housesy with a covered communication. i .. We were conducted by Koah to the top of this pile, by an easy ascent. At the entrance we saw two large wooden images, with features violently distorted, and a long piece of carved wood, of a conical form inverted, rising from the top of their heads ; the rest was without form, and wrapped round with red cloth. We were here met by a tall young man, with a long beard, who presented Captain Cook to the images ; and, after chanting a kind of hymn, in which he was joined by Koah, they led us to that end of the morai where the five poles were fixed. At the foot of them were twelve images, ranged in a semicircular form, and before the middle figure stood a high stand or table, on which lay a putrid hog, and under it pieces cf sugar-cane, cocoa- nuts, bread-fruits, plantains, and sweet potatoes. Koah, having placed the captam under this stand, took down he hogi and held it toward him; and after having a CAPTAIN COOK. 281 second time addressed him in a long speech^ pronounced with much vehemence and rapidity, he let it fall on the ground, and led him to the scarTolding, which they be- gan to climb together, not without great risk of falling. At this time we saw, comii^g in solemn procession, at the entrance of the top of the morai, ten men carrying a live hog, and a large piece of red cloth. Being ad- vanced a few paces, they stopped, and prostrated themselves ; and Kaireekeea, the young man above mentioned, went to them, and receiving the cloth, car- ried it to Koah, who wrapped it rocrd the captain, and afterward ofTered hirn the hog, which was brought by Kaireekeea with the same ceremony. Whilst Captain Cook was aloft, in this aukward si- tuation swathed round with red cloth, and with diffi- culty keeping his hold amongst the pieces of rotten scaiTolding, Kaireekeea and Koah began their office, chanting sometimes in concert, and sometimes alter- nately. 1 his lasted a considerable time : at length Koah let the hog drop, when he and the Captain de- scended together. He then led him to the images be- fore mentioned, and having said something to each in a sneering tone, snapping his fingers at them as he passed, he brought him to that in the centre, which, from its being coversd with red cloth, appeared to be in greater estimation than the rest. Before this figure he pros- trated himsdf, and kissed it ; desiring Captain Cook to do the same ; who suffered himself to be directed by Koah throughout the whole of this ceremony. We were now led back into the other division of the morai, where there was a space ten or twelve ftet square, sunk about three feet below the level of the area. Into this we descended, and Captain Cook was stated between two wooden idols, Koah supporting one of his arms, whilst 1 was desired to support the other. At this time arrived a second procession of natives, car- rying a baked hog, and a pudding, some bread-fruit, cocoa* nuts, and other vegetables, which were prese^t^cl 3s before. ../^ _ . • Aa3 ■ — - • -.<-•»* 282 VOYAGES OF When this offering was concluded, the natives sat dowa, fronting us, and began to cut up the baked-hog, to pee! the vegetables, and break the cocoa-nuts; whilst others employed themselves in brewing the ava ; which is done by chewing it in the same manner as at the Friendly Islands. Kaireekeea then took part of the kernel of a cocoa-nut, which he chewed, and wrapped it in a piece of cloth, rubbed with it the captain's face, head, hands, arms, and shoulders. The ava was then handed round, and, after M'e had tasted it, Koah and Pareea began to pull the flesh of the hog in pieces, and to put it into oor mouths. 1 had no great objection to be fed by Pareea, who was very cleanly in his person ; but Captain Cook, who was served by Koah, recollect- ing the putrid hog, could not swallow a morsel ; and his reluctance, as may be supposed, was not diminished, when the old man, according to his own mode of civility, had chewed it for him. When this last ceremony was finished, which Captain Cook put an end to as soon as he decently could, we quitted the morai, after distributing amongst the people some pieces of iron, and other trifles, with which they seemed highly gratified. The men with wands con- ducted us to the boats, repeating the same words as before. The people again retired, and the few that remained, prostrated themselves as we passed along the shore. We immediately went on board, our minds full of wliat we had seen, and extremely well satisBed with the good dispositions of our new friends, whose respect to the person of Captain Cook seemed ap- proaching to adoration. The next morning I went on shore with a guard of eight marines, including the corporal and lieutenant, having orders to erect the observatory in such a situation as might best enable me to superintend and protect the watcrers, and other working parties that were to be on shore. As we were viewing a spot conveniently situated for this purpose in the middle of the village, Pareea ofTered to pull down some houses that would have ('>• Wructed our observations. However, we thought i( CAPTAIN COOK. 283 proper to decline this offer, and fixed on a field of sweet potatoes adjoining to the morai, which was rea- dily granted us ; and the priests, to prevent the intru- sion of the natives, immediately consecrated the place, by fixing their wands round the wall by which it was inclosed. \ - No canoes ever presumed to land near us : the na- tives sat on the wall, but none offered to come within the tabooed space, till he had obtained our permission. But though the men, at our request^ would come across the field with provisions, yet not all our endeavours could prevail on the women to approach us. 'J his cir- cumstance afforded no small matter of amusement to our friends on board, where the crowds of people, and particularly of women, that continued to flock thither, obliged them almost every hour to clear the vessel, in order to have room to do the necessary duties of the ship. From the 19th to the 24th, when Pareea and Koah left us to attend Terreeoboo, who nad landed on some other part of the island, nothing very material happened on board. VVc had not been long settled at the obser- vatory, before we discovered in our neighbourhood, the habitations of a society of priests, whose regular attend- ance at the morai had excited our curiosity. Their huts stood round a pond of water, and were surrounded by a grove of cocoa-nut-trees, which separated them from the beach and the rest of the village, and gave the place an air of religious retirement. On my acquaintmg Captain Cook with these circumstances, he resolved to pay thetn a visit j and, as he expected, was received in the same manner as before. During the rest of the time we remained in the bay, whenever Captain Cook came on shore, he w is attend- ed by one of these priests, who went before iiiii, giv- ing notice that the Oroiio had landed, and ordering the people to prostrate themselves. Tlie same perso'i also constantly accompanied him on the water, staadr.:g in the bow of ihe boat, with a wand in his hand, and giv- ing notice of his approach to the natives, who were ia 284 VOYAGES OF canoes, on which they immediately left ofT paddling, and lay down on their faces till he had passed. The civilities of this society, were not, however, confined to mere ceremony and parade. Our party on shore received from them, every day, a constant supply of hogs and vegetables, more than sufficient for our subsistence ; and several canoes, loaded with provisions, were sent to the ships with the »am& punctuality. No return was ever demanded, or even hinted at in the most distant manner. 1 heir presents were made with a regularity, more like the discharge of a religious duty, than the efrect of mere liberality. As every thing relating to the character and beha- viour of this people must be interesting to the readt r, on account of the tragedy that was afterwards acted here, it will be proper to acquaint him, that we had not always so much reason to be satisfied wiih ihe c(/n-' duct of the warrior chiefs, oi earecs, as with that of our priests. In ail our dealings Avith the former, we found them sufficiently attentive to their own interests : and besides their habit of stealing, which may admit of some excuse, from the universality of the practice amongst the islanders of these seas, they make use of other artifices equally dishonourabl':. On the i^lth, we were a good deal surprised to find that no canoes were sulfered to put ojf from the shoie, and that the natives kept close to their houses. After several hours suspense, we learned that the bay was tabooed, and all intercourse with us inierdicted, on ac- count of the arrival of 'J'erreeoboo. In the aftcrncoTi of next day, Icrreeoboo visited the ships m a private manner, attended only by one catioe, in which were his wife and children. IJe staid on board till near ten o'clock, when he returned to the village of Kowrovva. 'J he next day, about noon, the king in a large canoe, attended by two others, set out from the village* and paddled toward the ship in great state. 'Jhe-r appear- ance was grand and magnificent. Jn the first canoe was 'lerreeoboo and his chiefs, dressed in thtir rich leathered cloaks and helmets, and armed witit ioDg paddling, however, party on ni supply I lor our provisions, lity. No at in the ade with ous duty, nd beha- e readt r, ds acted we had ihe am^ th that of mer, we ntere«ts ; ly admit practice ! use of d to find c shoie, After bay was , on ac- ftcrnoon private ch were ear ten vrowa. canoe, 7,^i and appear- canoe tir rich CAPTAIN COOK. 285 ipears and daggers ; in the second came the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his •brethren, with their idols displayed on red cloth. 1 he third canoe was filled with hogs, and various sorts of vegetables. As they went along, the priests in the centre canoe sung their hymns with great solemnity ; and, after paddling round the ships, instead of going on beard, as was expected^ they made toward the shore at the beach where we were stationed. As soon as I saw them approaching, I ordered out our little guard to receive the king ; and Captain Cook, perceiving that he was going on shore, followed him, and arrived nearly at the same time. We conducted them into the teat, where they had scarcely been seat- ed, when the king rose up, and in a very graceful man- ner threw over the captain^s shoulders the cloak he himself wore, put a feathered helrtiet upon his head, and a curious fan into his hand. fJe also s oread at his feet five or six other cloaks, all exceedingly beautiful, and of the greatest value. His attendants then brought four very large hogs, with sugar-canes, cocoa nuts, and bread-fruit; and this part of the ceremony was con- cluded by the King*s exchanging names with Captain Cook, which, amongst all the inlanders of the Pacific Ocean, is- esteemed the strongest pledge of friendship. A procession of priests, with a venerable old personage at their head, now appeared, followed by a long train of men leading large hogs, and othet-s carrying plan- tains, sweet potatoes, &c. By the looks and gestures of Kaireekeea, I immediately knew the old man to be the chief of the priests, on whose bounty we had so long subsisted. He had a piece of red cloth in his hands, which he wrapped round Captain Cook's shoulders, and afterward presented him with a small pig in the usual form. As soon as the formalities of meeting were over, Cap- tain Cook carried 'lerreeoboo, and as many chiefs as the pinnace could hold, or board the Resolution. '1 hey- were received with every mark of respect that could be shewn them ^ and Captain Cook, in return for th» pwttal 286 VOYAGES or feathered cloak, put a linen shirt on the king, and gin his own hanger round him. The ancient Kaoo, r.nd about half a dozen more old chiefs, remained on shore, and took up their abode at the priests houses. During all this time not a canoe was seen in the bay, and thTAIN C06k, ^g (Miction of all intercourse with us, on' pretence of the king's absence, was only to 'give him time to consult the chiefs in what manner it might be proper to treat us. Whether these suspicions were well founded, or the account given by the natives was , the truth, we were nevei* able to ascertain. For though it is not im- probable that our sudden return, for which they could see no apparent cause, and the necessity of which we afterward found it very difficult fo make them compre- hend, might occasion some alarm ; yet the unsuspicious conduct of Terreeoboo, who, on his supposed arrival • the next morning, catne immediately to visit Captain Cook, and the consequent return of the natives to their former friendly intercourse with us, are strong proofs that they neither meant, nor apprehended, any change of conduct. Towards the evening of the 13th, however, the officer who commanded the watering party of the Discovery, came to inform me, that several chiefs had assembled at the well near the beach, driving away the natives, whom we had hired to assist the sailors in rolling down the casks to the shore. He told me at the same time, that he thought their behaviour extremely suspicious, and that they ment to give him some farther disturbance. At his request, therefore, 1 sent a marine along witri him, but sulFered him to take only his side-arms. In a short time the officer returned, and on his acquainting me that the islanders had armed themselves with stones, and were grown very tumultuous, 1 went myself to the spot, attended by a marine, with his musket. Seeing us approach, they threw away their stones j and on my ipeaking to sonie of the chie^^, the mob were driven away, and those who ch9»e it, were tufTered to assist in filling the caski; Soon after our return to the tents, we were alarmed by a continued fir 6 of fnuskets, from the Discovery^ which we observed ta^ b# directed at a canoe that wo law paddling tdwatdf ^ shore in great haste, pursued by one of our small boats. We immediately concluded tiiat the firing was in conseq^nce of some theft, and m 200 VOYAGES OP Captain Cook ordered me ta follow him with a marine armed, and to endeavour to seize the people as they came on shore. Accordingly we, ran towards the place vv here we supposed the canoe would land» but were tuo late ; the people having quitted it^ and made their escape into the country before our arrival-; but the goods stolen had been recovered. During our absence, a dilTerence of a more serious and unpleasant nature had happened. The officer, who had been sent in the small boat, and was returning on board with the goods which had been restored, observ- ing Captain Cook and me engaged in the pursuit of the offender^, thought it his duty to seize the canoe^ * which was left drawn up on the snore. Unfortunately this canoe belonged to Pareea, who arriving; at the same moment from on board the Discovery, claimed his pro* perty with many protestations of his innocence. The efficer refusing to give it up, and being joined by the crew of (he pinnace, a scuffle ensued, in which rareea was knocked down by a violent blow upon his head with an oar. 7 he natives, who were collected about the spoty and had hitherto been peaceable spectators, immediately attacked our people with such a shower of stones, as forced them to retreat with great precipita- tion, and swim o(T to a rock at some distance from the shore. 1 he pinnace was iniinediately ransacked by the islanders; and but for the timely interposition of J*areea, who seemed to have recovered from the blow, and forgot it at the same instant, would soon have been entirely demolished. Having driven away the crowd, he made signs to our people j that they might come and 'fake possession of the pinnace, and that he would en- deavour to get back the things which had been taken out of it. After their departure, he followed them in his canoe, with a midshipman ^s cap, and som^ other trifling articles of the plunder, and with much apparent constrn at what had happened, asked if the Orono ; * would kill him, and whether he would permit him to ' come on board next day ? On being assured that he ■ should be well received, he joined noses (as their ^^s- and taken it along with him» proceeded to Kowrovva, and landed with the lieutenant and nipc ma- rines. He immediately marched to the village, where he was received with tne usual marks of respect y the people prostrating themselves before him, and bringing their accustomed offerings of small hogs. Finding that there was no suspicion of his design,. £s next 8t«p was to enquire for lerreeoboo, and the two boys^ his sons, vfho had been his constant guests on board the Kesolu* tion. In a short time the l^ys returned along with the natives, who had been sent hi search of them, and im* mediately led Captain Cook to the house where the king had slept. They found the old man just awoke from sleep ,^ and after a short conversation about the loss of the cutter, from which Captrin Cook was convinced that he was in no wise privy jo it, ke invited him to return in the boat, and , spend the day on board the Kesoitttion. To this proposal the king readily consented, and immediately got up to accompany him. • Things were in this prosperous train ; the two. boys being already in the pinnace, and the rest of the partyy having advanced near the water^^side, when an elderly ^^oman, called Kanee^kabareea, the mother of the feoysj and one of the king^s favourite wives, came, after him, and with many tears and entreatiee» besought him not to go on board. At the same time two chiefs, who came along with her^ laid hold of him, and insist* ing that he should go no farther, forced him to sit down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigieus numbers along the shore, and had probably been alarmed by the iim^ of the great guns^ and the appearances x)f hostifity ?• *• CAPTAIN COOK. ^3 in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook and cheir king. In this situation, the lieutenant of marines^ ' observing that his men were huddled close together in the crowd, and thus incapable of using their arms, if any occasion should lequire it, proposed to the captain to draw them up along the rocks close to the water> edge ; and the crowd readily making way for them to pass, the^ were drawn up in a line at the distance ot about thirty yards froiB the place where the kiifg wa« * fitting. All this time the old king remained on the ground, with the strongest marks of terror and dejection in hit . countenance ; Captain Cook, not willing to abandon the object for which he had come on shore, continuing to ^ urge him in the most pressing manner to proceed ; * whilst, on the other hand, whenever the king appeared inclined to follow him, the chiefs, who stood round him, interposed, at Brst with prayers and entreaties, but af- terwards having recourse to force and violence, insisted on his staying where he was. Captain Couk^ therefore, finding that the alarm had spread too generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him olF without bloodshed, at last gave up the point ; observing to Mr. Phillips, that it would be impossible to compel him to go on board, without running the risk of killing a great number of the inhabitants. Though the enterprise which had carried Captain Cook on shore, had now failed, and was abandoned, yet His person did not appear to have been in the least dan- ger, till an accident happened which gave a fatal turn to the affair. The boats, which tiad been stationed acrou the bay, having fired at some canoes that were ' attempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. The news of his cfeath arrived at the\ village where Captain Cook was, just as he had left the king, and was walking slowly toward the shore. I'he ferment it occasioned was very conspicuous ; the wo- men and children were immediately sent off, and the men put on their war-mats, and armed themselves with ^ ipearl and stones. One of the natives, having in hit B ba rv-xmmk'mi4i?3fei&mstsWf!Semi^'!^'imi^^iigttt^ i 90i VOYAGES OF , handt a stone and a long iron spike» (which they called a pahooa,) came up to the captain, flourishing his wea- pon by way of defiance, and threatening to throw the stone. I'he Captain desired him to desist ; but the man persisting in his insolencei he was at length pro* Toked to fire a load of small shot. The man having his mat on, which the shot were not able to penetrate » this had no other effect than to irritate and encourage them. Several stones were thrown at the marines;. and one of the earees attempted to stab Mr. Phillips with his Jahooa, but failed in the attempt, and received from im a. blow, with the but*end of his musket. Captain Cook now fired his second barrel, loaded with batl, and killed one. of the foremost of the natives. A general attack with stones immediately followed, which was an- \ swered by a discharge of musketry from the marines and the people in the boats, llie islanders, contrary to the expectations of eve^y one, stood th^ fire .with great . £rmness; and before the iharines had time to-reload, they broke in upon them with dreadful shouts andyelJs. What followed^ was a scene of the utmost horror and , confusion. Four of the marines were rut off amongst the rocks in their retreat, and fell a sacrifice tQ the fury of the 'i enemy; three more were dangerously wounded ; and the lieutenant, who had received a stab bet>»'een the shovildefs >yith a-pahooa, having fortunately reserved his r fire, shot the man who. had wounded him, just as he ' XV8S going to repeat, his blow. Our unfortunate com- jiiander, the last time be was seen distinctly, was stand- ing at the water's edge, and calling out to the boats to cease firing, and. to pull in. Whilst he faced the na- tives, none of . them nad offered him any violence ; but '•. having turned about, to give his orders to the boats, he M/as stabbed in the bac^^ and fell with his face into the tvater. On 9eeing him fall, the islanders set up a great shout ; and his body was mimediately dragged on shore, , and surrounded by the enemy, who, snatching the dag- i;er out of each other*s hands,, shewed a savage eager<» aess to have a share in hb de8tructio}i« ie ipannet CAPTAIN COOK. SP5 Thus fell our great and excellent commander ! After a life of so much distinguished and successful enterprize, his death I as far as regards himself, cannot he reckoned premature ; since he lived to finish the great work for which he seems to have been designed ; and was rather removed from the enjoyment, than cut off from the ac* quisition, of glory. How sincerely his loss was (elt and lamented by those who had so long found t leir genera! security in his skill and conduct, and every consolation, under their hardships, in his tf'nderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible for me to describe} much. less shall I attempt to paint the horror with which we were struck, and the universal dejection and dis» may which followed so dreadful and unexpected a cala- mity, s It has been already related, that four of the marines, who attended Captain Cook, were killed by the islanders on the spot. The rest, with Mr. Phillips, their lieutennnt, threw themselves into the water, and es* taped under cover of a smart Bre from the boats. On this occasion, a remarkable instance of gallant behaviour, and of aiTection for his men, was shewn by that ofHcer. For he had scsrcely got into the boat, when seeing one of the marines, who was a bad swimmer, struggling in Oxe water, and in danger of being taken by the enemy, he immediately jumped into the sea to his assistance, though much wounded himself; and, after receiving a blow on the head from a stone, which had nearly sent him to the bottom, he caught the man by the hair, and brought him safe off. As soon as the general consternation, which the news of this calamity occasionea rhroughout both crews, had a little subsided, their attention was called to our 'party at the morai, where the masts and sails were on shore, with a guard of only six marines. It is impossible for me to describe the emotions of my own mind, during the time these transactions had been carrying on at the other side of the bay. Geing at the distance only of a short mile from the village of Kowrowa, we could see distipctly^ 9n ^ imtpense crowd collected on the v sjpot S> I 29Q VOYAGES OP where Captain Cook had just before landed. We heard the firing of the musketry, and could perceive some extraordinary bustle and agitation in the multitude. We afterwards saw the natives flying, the boats retire from the shore, and passing and repassing, in great stillness, between the ships. I must confess that, my heart soon misgave me. Where a life so dear and valuable was concerned, it was impossible not to be alarmed^ by ap« pearances both new and threatening. My first care, on hearing the muskets i:red, was, to assure the people, who were assembled in considerable numbers round the wall of our consecrated field, and seemed equally at a loss with ourselves how to account for what they had seen and heard, that they should not be molested ; and that, at all events, 1 was desirous of continuing on peaceable terms with them. We remain- ed in this posture till the boats had returned on boards when Captain Clerke, observing through his telescope, that we were surrounded by the natives, and appre- hending they meant to attack us, ordered two four- pounders to be fired at them. Fortunately these guns, though well aimed, did no mischief, and yet gave the natives a convincing proof of their power. One of the balls broke a cocoa-nut tree in the middle, under which a party of them were sitting ; and the other shivered a rock that stood in an exact line with them. As I had just before given them the strongest assurances of their safety, I was exceedmgly mortified at this act of hosti<* lity ; and to prevent a repetition of it, immediately dispatched a boat to acquaint Captain Clerke, that at present I was on the most friendly terms with the na- tives i and that, if occasion should hereafter arise, for altering my conduct towards them, I would hoist a jackj^ as a signal for him to afford us all the assistance in his power. ' ■ : ^- \Ve expected the return of the boat with the utmost impatience J and after remaining a quarter of an hour, under the most torturing anxiety and suspense, our fears were at length confirmed, by the arrival of Mu Biigh, with orders to strike the tents as quickly as pos<^ CAPTAIN COOK. 2P7 sible, and to send the sails, that were repairing, on board, iust at the same moment, our friend Kairee- keea, having also received intelligence of the death of Captain Cook, from a native who had arrived from the other side of the bay, came to me with great sorrow and dejection in his countenance, to enquire if it was true. ; . u . Having placed the marines on the tops of the mora!, which formed a strong and advantageous post, and left the command with Mr. filigh, giving him the most po- sitive directions to act entirely on the defensive, 1 went on board the Discovery, in order to represent to Cap- tain Gierke the dangerous situation of our affairs. A% sioon as 1 quitted the spot, the natives began to annoy our people with stones ; and 1 had scarcely reached the ship, before I heard the firing of the marines. 1 there- fore returned instantly on shore, where 1 found things growing every moment more alarming. The natives were arming, and putting on their mats ; and their numbers increased very fast. I could also perceive se* vera! large bodies marching tow?.ids us, along the cliff which separates the village of Kakooa from the north side of the bay, where the village of Kowroa is si- tuated. »*^' ••<"[ - - ... They began at first to attack us with stones, from behind the walls of their inclosures, and finding no re- sistance oa our part, they soon grew more daring. A few resolute fellows having crept aloiig the beach, under cover of the rocks, suddenly made their appearance at the foot of the morai, with a design, as it seemed, of storming it on the side next the sea, which was its only accessible part ; and were not dislodged* till after they had stood a considerable number of shot, and seen one of their party fall, • ; Ij . -a ^ iVbout this time, a strong reinforcement from both ships having landed, the natives retreated behind their walls ; which giving me access to our friendly priests, | sent one of them to endeavour to bring their country- men to some terms, and to propose to them, that if tliey would, desist , from throwing stonesi i would not m k M Sd8 VOYAGKS OF permit our men to fire. This truce was agreed to; and we were suffered to launch the mast, and carry oi the sails and our astronomical apparatus unmolested. As soon as we had quitted the morai, they took posses- sion of it, and some of them threw a few stones^ but without doing us any mischief. • < ^ It was half an hour past eleven o^clock when I got on board the Discovery, where I found no decisive plan had been adopted for our future proceedings. The res- titution of the boat, and the recovery of the body of Captain Cook, were the objects which, on all hands, we agreed to insist on ; and it was my opinion, that some vigorous steps should be taken, in case the de- mand of them was not immediately complied with. However, after mature deliberation, it was determined to accomplish these points by conciliatory measures, if possible. In pursuance of this plan> it was determined that I should proceed toward the shore, with the boats of both ships, Weil manned and armed « with a view to bring the natives to a parley, and, if possible, to obtain a conference with some of the chiefs. I left the ships about four o'clock in the afternoon, and as we approach- ed the shore, I perceived every indication of a hostile reception. The whole crowd of natives was in motion ; the women and children retiring ; the men putting on their war-mats, and arming themselves with long spears and daggers. Concluding, therefore, that all attempts to bring them to a parley would be in vain, unless I first gave ihe^n some . ground for mutual confidence, I ordered the armed boats to stop, and went on in the small boat alone, with a white fiag . my hand, which by a general cry of joy from th j' natives, I had the satis- faction to find was instantly understood. The women immediately returned from the side of the hill, whither they had retired ; the men threw off their mats ; and all sat down together by the water-side, extending their arms, and inviting me to come on shore. Though this behaviour was vei*y expressive of a friend- }y disposition, yet 1 could not help entertaining tome CAPTAIN COOK. 299 auspicions of its sincerity : but when I saw Koah^ with a boldness and assurance altogether unaccountable^ swimming ofT towards the boat, with a white flag in his hand, I thought it necessary to return this mark of con- fidence, and therefore received him into the boat, though armed ; a circumstance which did not tend to lessen my suspicions. I must confess, I had long har- boured an unfavourable opinion of this man. I told him that 1 had come to demand the body of Captain Cook, and to declare war against them unless it was instantly restored. He assured me this should be done as soon as possible, and that he would go himself for that pur- pose ; and after begging of me a piece of iron, with as much assurance as if nothing extraordinary had happen- ed, he leaped into the sea, and swam on shore, calling out to his countrymen that we were all friends again. We waited near an hour, with great anxiety, for his return ; during which time, the rest of the boats had approached so near the shore, as to enter into conversa- tion with a party of the natives, at some distance from us, by whom they were plainly ^iven to understand, that the body had been cut to pieces, and carried up the country ; but of this circumstance 1 was not inform- ed till our return to the ships. After various delays, negociationsy and hostile preparations, about eight oVlock, it being very dark, a canoe was heard paddling towards the ship ; and, as soon as it was seen, both the sentinels on deck fired into it. There were two persons in ithe canoe, and they immediately roared out Tinne, (which was the way in which they pronounced my name,) and said they were friends, and nad something for me be- longing to Captain Cook. When they came on board, they threw themselves at our feet, and appeared extremely- frightened. Luckily neither of them was hurt, notwith- standing the balls of both pieces had gone through the ca- noe. One of them was the man who attended Cap- ' tain Cook, with the circumstances of ceremony already described $ and who, thoueh a man of rank in the island^ -could scarcely be hindered from performing for him the . |9we.n Qfticei of » meaiaUscrvaat» After lameitimg, witk mm £■<.<. J! abundancle of tears, the less of the Orono, he'tbid ih that he had brought us a part of his body. He th^n presented to us a small bundle» wrapped up in cloth, which he brought under his arm $ and it is impossible to describe the horror which seized us, on finding in it a piece of human flesh, about nine or ten pounds weight. This, he said, was ail that remained of the body; that the rest was cut to pieces and burnt ; but that the head, and all the bones, except what belonged to the trunk, were in the possession of Terreeoboo, and the other earees ; that what we saw, had been allotted to Kaoo, the chief of the priests, to be made use of in some reli- gious ceremony ; and that he had sent it, as a proof of his innocence and attachment to us. « We pressed our two friendly visitors to remain on board till morning, but in vain. We learned from these men, that seventeen of iheir countrymen were killed in the first action at Kowrowa, of whom live were chiefs ; and that Kaneena and his brother, our very par* ticular friends, were unfortunately of that number. Eight, they said, were killed at the observatory ; three of whom were also of the first rank* * This day a man had the audacity to come within mus« ket shot, ahead of the ship; and, after slinging several stones at us, he waved Captain Cook's hat over his head, whilst his countrymen on shore were exulting, and en- couraging his boldness. Our people were all in a f]ame at 'this insult, and, coming in a body on the quarter- deck, begged they might no longer be obliged to put up with these repeated provocations ; and requested me to obtain permission for them, from Captain Clerke, to avail themselves of the first fair occasion of revenging the death of their commander. On my acquainting him with what was passing, he gave orders for some great guns to be fired at the natives on shore ; and pro- mised the crew, that if they should meet with any mo- lestation at the watering-plac6, the next day, they should then be left at liberty td chastise them. At night, the usual precautions were taken for the »ecurity of the thip^ j. and n lOon at k wai9 dark;^ ws wm CAPTAIN COOK. 301 %no friend»» who had visited us the night before, came off again. They assured us, that though the efTect of our great guns this arternoon had terrified the chiefs exceedingly, they had by nu means laid aside their hostile intentions^ and advised us to be on our guard. The next morning, the boats of both ships ^vere aent on shore for water j and the Discovery was warped close to the beach, in order to cover that service. We soon found that the intelligence which the priests had sent us, was not without foundation ; and that the na- tives were resolved to take every opportunity of annoy- ing us, when it could be done without much risk. • 1 he men being ordered to burn a few straggling huts, •which afforded shelter to the natives, we, who were oh board, were a good deal surprised to see the whole vil- lage on 6re ; and before a boat, that was sent to stop the progress of the mischief, could reach the shore, the houses of our old and constant friends, the priesrs, were all in ilanies. I cannot enough lament the illness that ^confined me on board this day. 1 he priests had always been under my protection. Several of the natives were shot in making their escape from the flames ; and our people cut ofll* the heads of two of them, and brought ihem on board. The fate of one poor islander was much lamented by us all* As he was coming to tht well for "Water, he was shot at by one of the mannas. 1 iie hall struck his calibash, which he rnimediately threw from him, and fled, lie was pursued into one of the caves I have before described, and no lion could have defend- ed his den with greater courage and fierceness ; till, at last, after having kept two of our people at bay for a considerable time, he expired covered with wounds. lu the evening, the watering party returned on board, f)^ing met with no further interruption. We passed a gloomy night ; the cries and lamentations we heard on «hore, being far more dreadful than ever. Our only consolation was, the hope that we should have no occa- s«)n, in future, for a repetition of such severities. Uf tween ten and eleven o'ck)ck, on the 20th, we iavv a ^reat number of people descending the lull; which ■'- ' * ■■'• ■ C c - • " - ^ ^ v? ■ if-.? iS!; .v'--.' 302 '' VOYAGES OP is over the beach, in a kind of procession ; each main carrying a sugar-cane, or two^ on his shoulders^ and bread-fruit» taro, and plantains, in his hand. They were preceded by two drummers; who, when they came to the water-side, sat down by a white flag, and began to beat their drums ; while those who had follow- ed them, advanced one by one ; and having deposited the presents they had brought, retired in the same or- deir. Soon after, Eappo came in sight, in his long fea« thered cloak ^ bearing something with great Solemnity in his hands ; and having placed himself on a rock, he made signs for a boat to be sent him. Captain Gierke, conjecturing that he had brought the bones of Captain Cook, which proved to be the fact, went himself in the pinnace to receive them ; and or. dered me to attend him in the cutter. When we ar- rived at the beach, Eappo came into the pinnace, and delivered to the captain, the bones, wrapped up in a large quantity of fine new cloth, and covered with a spotted cloak of black and white feathers. He after- wards attended us to the Resolution, but could not be prevailed upon to go on board; probably, not chusing, from a sense of decency, to be present at the opening of the bundle^ We found in it both the hands of Cap« tain Cook entire, which were well known from a re- markable scar on one of them, that divided the thumb from the fore- finger, the whole length of the mata- carpal bone ; the skulli but with the scalp separated from it, and the bones that form the face wanting; the scalp, with the hair upon it, cut short, and the ears ad- "hering to it; the bones of both arms, with the skin of the fore-arms hanging to them ; the ihigh and leg-bones joined together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the joints were entire ; and the whole bore evident marks of having been in the fire, except the hands, which had the flesh left upon them, and "were cut m several places, and crammed with salt, apparently with an intention of preserving them. The scalp had a cut in the back part of it ; but the skull was free Hvm any fracture. The low6r jaw and feet, whfch^vere wan;- ly and They (i they g, and follow* posited ime or« ng fea« lemnity xk, he ight the he fact, and or« I we ar- ice, and , up in a i with a e after- 1 not be husing, [opening f Cap. Im a re- thumb mata- arated gi the lars ad- skin of -bones ments vident [hands, cut in y with a cat in any waai- CAPTAIN COOK. 303 ing, Eappo told us, had been seized by different chiefs, and that Terreeoboo was using every means to recover ihcm. . 1 he next morning, Eappo and the King's son came on board, and brought with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook ; the barrels of his gun, his shoes, and some other trifles that belonged to him. £appo took great pains to convince us, that Terreeoboo, Maiha- naiha, and himself, were most heartily desirous of peace; that they had given us the most convincing proof of it in their power ; and that they had been prevented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom v^ere still our enemies. We found the cutter had been broken up. Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to our great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to taboo all the bay ; and, in the afternoon, the bones, having been put into a coffin* and the service read over them, they were committed to the deep, with the usual military honors. AVhat our feelings were on this occasion ^ I leave the world tocon« ceive ; those who were present^ know that it is not in my power to express them. During the forenoon of the 22d, not a canoe was seen paddling in the bay ; the taboo, which Eappo had laid tm it the day before, at our request, not being yet taken off. At length Eappo came off to us. We as- sured him, that we were now entirely satisfied ; and that, as the Orono was buried, all remembrance of what had passed was buried with him. We afterwards desired him to take off the taboo, and to make it known, that the people might bring their provisions as usual. The ships were soon surrounded with canoes, and many of the chiefs came on board, expressing great sorrow at what had happened, and their satisfaction at our recon- ciliation. Several of our friends, who did not visit us, sent presents of large hogs, and other provisions. Amongst the rest came the old treacherous Koah, but wa* refused <5daui}^ce,« ■ ■ ' ■ ■ •■■■' c^a : . ii p^7r..-<'.-.tt»s: ^JSSciZ^^'^^^ 1%: '.f WP 3^4- YCYACES OP ' , As we had now every thing ready for sea, about eight o*clock this evening we dismissed all the natives; £appo, and the friendly Kaireekeea, took an aflfection- dte leave of ut. We immediately weighed* and stood cut of the bay. The natives were collected on the shore ia great numbers ; and as we passed along, re* ceived /our last farewells with every mark of attection and good will. We got clear of the land about ten on the 22d, ani hoisting in the boats, stood to the northward. After touching at Woahoo, where it was found watering would have been inconvenient, Captain Clerk e determined, without further loss of time, to proceed to Atooi. On the 2Sth, xve bore away for that island, which we wer6 in sight of by noon ; and about surf-set^ were off iu eastern extremity. : On the 8th, at nitte in the morning, we weighed, and sailed towards Oneeheow ; and at three in the af- ternoon, anchored in twenty fathoms water, nearly on the same spot as in the year 1778. On the 12th, the weather bemg moderate, the master was sent to the north*west side of the island, to look for a more convex nient place for anchoring. He returned in the evenings, having found a fine bay with good anchorage ; also, to the eastward were four small wells of good water, the road to them level, and fit for roiling casks. On the 15th of March, at seven in the morning, we weighed anchor, and passing to the north of Tahoora, stood on to the south-west. Oh the 23d, the wind, which had been moderate for some time, freshened^ and increased to a strong gale, which split some of our old sails, and made the runninja; rigging very frequently give way. This gale lasted twelve hours ; it then be- came more moderate, and continued so till the !25tb at noon, when we entirely lost it, and had only a very light air. On the 30th, the winds, and unsettled stat% of the weather, induced Captain Clerke tc alter his plan; and at six in the evening, we began to steer north-west, which we continued till the (^ch of Apriif when we lost the tr^de wmd* CAFTltK COOK. 905 On the IM, the wind came gradually round to the tait, and increased to a strong gale. Ever since we left the Sandwich Islands, we had been incommoded by aleaki which made twelve inches of water every hour; iMit at we had always been able to keep it under with the hand-pumps, it gave us no great uneasiness, till the J3th, when we were greatly alarmed by a sadden inun- dation that deluged the v^hole space between decks. The water, which had lodged in the coal-hole, not find* ing a sufficient vent into the well, had forced up the platforms over it, and in a moment set every thing afloat. Our situation was, indeed, exceedingly distres 1 ■»■. ,i4 30d voYAGfes dr ^ thick fog. As soon as the weathar cleared up, we stood in to take a nearer vie>v of the land, and a mora dismal and dreary prospect I never beheld. The coast appears straight and uniform > having no inlets or bays; the ground from the shore rises in hills of a moderate elevation, behind which are range*, of mountains, whose summits were lost in the clouds. The whole scene was entirety- covered with snow, except the sides of some of the clilTs,' which rose too abruptly from the sea for the Show to lie upon them. The wind continued blowing very strong from the' north-east> with thick hazy weather and sleet, from the' 24th till the 28th. I'he ship appeared to be a complete mass of ice ; the shrouds were so incrusted with it, as to measure in circumfeience more than double their usual size; and, in short, the experience of the oldest seaman among us had never met with any thing like the continued showers of sleet, and the extreme cold which we now encountered. On the 28thi in the mornins;* th^ weather at last cleared, and the wind fell to a light breeze from the same quarter as before. We had a nne warm day ; and as we now began to expect a tliaw, the men were employed in breaking the ice from off the rigging, masts, and sails, in order to prevent its falling on our head's. About three in the afternoon, a fair wind sprung up from the southward, with which we stood in for Awatska Bay. During the night, much ice drifted by us with the tide ; and at day- light I was sent with the boats to exa- mine the bay, and deliver the letters we had brought from Oonalashka to the Russian commander. As we approached, we observed a few men hurrying back* Avards and forwards ; and presently aAer a sledge, drawn by dogs, with one of the inhabitants in it, came down to the sea-side opposite to us. Whilst we were gazing at this unusual sight, and admiring the great civility ot* this stranger, which we imagined had brought him to our assistance,, the man, - after viewing us for some time very attentively, turned short round, and went off with gfeat speed towards the oitrog*- We were not less iw. CAl^TAfW COOK. 307 tfhagnned than disappointed at this abrupt departure, as '^e be^an »o find our journey over the ice attended not i>nly with great difficulty, but even with danger. At Jength we arrived at the house of the command* hug officer of the party, into which we were ushered ; and after no small stir m giving orders, and disposing of the military without doors, our host made his appear- ance, accompanied by another person, whom we un« -derstood to be the secretary of the porr. One of Ismy- JofTs letters was now opened « and the other sent off by a special messenger to Bolcheretsk, a town on the west side of the peninsula of Kamtschatka, where the Rus- sian commander of this province usually resides. " After taking some refreshment, we departed ; and a sledge, drawn by five dogs, with a driver, was imme- diately provided for each of our party. The sailors were highly delighted with this mode of conveyan.-e ; and what diveried them still more was, that the two boat-hooks had also a sledge appropriated to themselves. On our return, we found the boats towing the ship to- Svards the village ; and at seven we got close to the ice, and moored. Next morning the carpenters were set to work to stop the leak which had given us so much trouble during our last run. Several of our gentlemen paid their visits to the commander, by whom they were received with great civility ; and Captain Gierke sent him two bottles of rum, which he understood would be the most acceptable present he coulvl make him, and received in return, some fine fowls of the grouse kind, and twenty trouts. ' The following morning, on our observing two sledges tified the mistake. When they arrived on board, we still found, from their cautious and timorous behaviour, that they were under some unaccountable apprehensions; and an un«. common degree of satisfaction was visible in their coun- tenances, on the German*s finding a person amongst us, with whom he could converse. Ihis was Mr, Webber, who spoke that language exceedingly well. Mr. Port being introduced to Captain Clerke, delivered to him the commander's letter, which was written in German, inviting him and his officers to Bolcheretsk. Mr. Port, at the same time, acquainted him, that the major had conceived a very wrong idea of the size of the ships, and of the service we were engaged in ; Ismyloflf, in his letter, having represented us as two small English packet boats, and cautioned him to be on his guard ; insinuating, that he suspected us to be no better than pirates. ^ Being now enabled to converse with the Russians, by the aid of our interpreter, bur first enquiries were directed to the means of procuring a supply of fresh provisions and naval stores ; from the want of which we h^jj[ been for some time in great distress. On enquiry^ CAPTAIK COOK. . S09 It appeared that the whole stock of live cattle, >vhicn the country about the bay could furnish, amounted only to two heifers ; and these the sergeant very, readily pro- mised to procure us. Our applications were next made to the merchant ; but we found the terms upon which he olTered to serve us^ so exorbitant, thut Captain Clerke thoueht it necessary to send an officer to visit the commander at Bolcheretski and to enquire into the price of stores at that place. Captain Clerke having thought proper to fix on me for this service, I received orders, together with Mr. Webber, who was to accompany me as an interpreter, to be ready to set eut the next day. Captain Gore was now added to our party, and we were attended by Messrs. Port and Fedositch, with two Cossacks, and were provided by our conductors with warm furred clothitig ; a precaution which we soon found very necessary, as it began to snow briskly just after we set out. On the morning of the second day, we were met by the Toion, or Chief of Karatchin, who had been ap- prized of our coming, and had provided canoes that were lighter, and better contrived for navigating the higher parts of the river Awatska. We now went on 'Very rapidly, the Toion's people being both stout and ^esh, and remarkable for their expertness in this busi- ness. At ten we got to the ostrog, the seat of his com- mand, where we were received at the water-side by the Kamtschadale men and women, and some Russian •crvants belonging to Fedosistch, who were empkiyed in making canoes. They were all dressed out in their best clothes. We were nov/ to quit the river, and perform the next part of our journey on sledges. As we did not chuse to trust to our own skill, we had each of us a man to drive and guide the slddge, which, from the state the roads were now in, proved a very laborious busi- ness. I had a very good-humoured Cossack to attend me, who was, however, so very unskilful in his busi- ness, that we were overturned almost every minate, to the ^leat entertainment of the rett of the company* 1 i 310 VOYAGES OF Our party consisted, in all, of ten sledges. That in which C kptain Gore was carried, was made of two lashed tcgether, and abundantly provided with fun and bear skins ; it had ten dogs, yoked four abreast ; as had also some of those that were heavy laden with baggage. j-.« ? When we had proceeded about four miles, it began to rain ; which, added to the darkness of the nighty threw us all into confusion. It was, at last, agreed, that we should remain where we were till day-light ; and, accordingly, ^wrapping ourselves up in our furs, we waited patiently for morning. About three o'clock we were called on to set out, our guides being apprehan* sive that if we waited longer, we might be stopped by the thaw, and neither be able to proceed nor to return. After encountering many difficulties, which were prin- cipally occasioned by the bad condition of the road, at two m the afternoon we got safe to an ostrog^ called Katcheekin. The next morning we embarked on the Bolchoirekk in canoes* About nine in the forenoon we arrived at an ostrog called Opatchin, which is computed to be fifty miles from Natcheekla^ and is nearly of the same size as Karatchin. We found here a sergeant with four Kussian soldiers, who had been two days waiting for our arrival ; and who immediately dispatehed a light boat to fiolchcretsk with intelligence of our approach. The remainder of our passage was performed with great facility anr^ expedition, the river growing moret. rapid as we descended, and less obstructed by shoals. As we approached the capital, v/e were so ry to cS- serye, from an appearance of much stir and bustle, that We were to be received in form. Decent clothes had been, for some time, a scarce commodity among us ; and our travelling dresses were made up of a burlesque mixture of European^ Indian, and Kamtschadale fashions. The manner in which we were received by the commander, was the most engaging tl at could be conceived, and increased by mortiHcation at findingt (h^p he ha4 aln>ost entirely forgottei) the FrQQvh laa /tt CAPTAIN uld not but adibir^^ so dxraocdinary ^, sac^iiice i andiji)^ the/ inj£ht n^H mtthj it# Capbiip i'. If- ■ i 314 VOYAGES OF ClerkCf and the rest of the officers, substitiued, in the room of the very small quantity the major could be prevailed on to accept, the same quantity of rum. This, with a dozen or two of Cape wine, for Madame Behm, and such other little presents as were in our power to bestow, were accepted in the most obliging manner. Major Behm having resigned the command of Kamts- chatka, intended to have set out in a short time for Peiersljurgh ; and he now offered to charge himself with any dispatches we might trust to his care. This was an opportunity not to be neglected ; and Captain Clerk e, being persuaded that the whole account of our discoveries might safely be trusted to a person who had giv^^ such striking proofs both of his public and private virti/ .id considering that we had a very hazardous part o^ le voyage still to undertake, determined to send by him, the whole of the journal of our late com- mander, with that part of his own which completed the period from Captain Cook*s death till our arrival at Kamtschatka, together with a chart of all our dis- coveries, to be delivered to our ambassador at the Rus* sian court. During the thre^ following days, the Major was entertained alternately in the two ships, in the best manner we were able. On the ^5th he took his leave, and was saluted with thirteen guns ; and the sailors^ at their own desire, gjave him three cheers. During the time that the ships lay in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, Captain Cterke*s health con- tinued daily to decliiie, notwithstanding the salutary change of diet which thi? country of Kamtschatka aN forded him. On the Ist'o^ June> we got on board i^ine thousand pounds weight of rye flour, wiih which we were supplied from the stores of St. Peter and St. Patil; and the Discovery liad a proportional quaiiHty. The' men were immediately put on full allowance of t)read, which they had not bieen' indulged in ' since 9tir leaving the Ca^e of Good Heipi^'. ' * On the C{hf twen^j head of (fattle. of a moderate fize, were' itc^^iUliJiy the commaiider*8 Vd^rs from the Yerchn^i oslrog^/Ti^iiK^i^ ncar^ hundttd miles from CAPTAIN COOK. 31^ this place in a direct line. They arrived in good con- dition. The eight followuig days were employed in making ready for sea. At noon, on the 6th of July, we passed a consider* able nuniber of farge massess of ice ; and, observing ^hat it still adhered, in several places, to the shore on the continent of Asia, we were not much surprised to fall in, at three in thie afternoon, with an extensive body of it, stretching away to the westward. This sight gave great discouragement to our hopes of advanc- ing much farther northward this year than we had the preceding. We had sailed, by the 9th, near forty leagues to the westward, along the edge of the ice, without seeing any opening, or a clear sea to the north- ward beyond it, and had therefore no prospect of ad« Tancing farther north for the present. It being now found impossible beyond a doubt, that any north-east passage tould be discovered, owing to the solid fields of ice which every where environed them, it was determined to give up all idea of such a futile scheme : and Captain Gierke, whose health was so fast on the decline that he could not leave hii bed, gave orders to return to Awatska Bay with all possible speed : but before we could arrive there, on the 22d of August, 1779, at nine o'clock in the morning, he de- parted this life, in the thirty-eighth year of his agcf. He died of a consumption, which had evidently com- menced before he left England, and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. His very gradual decay had long made him a melancholy object to his friends; yet the equanimity with which he bore it, the constant flow of good spirits, which continued to the last hour, and a cheerful resignation to his fate, aflforded them some consolation. It was impossible not to feel a mere than common degree of co/npassion for a person, whose whole life had been a conwnued scene of those difficulties and hardships, to which a seaman's occupa- tion is subject, and under which he at last sunk. Next day we anchored in the harbour of St. Ptier and St. Paul;, when our old friend, the sergeant, who Dd2 a ■iBS'"*'*-1 316 VOYAGES OF was still the commander of the place, came on bo ird with a present of berries, intended for our poor de- ceased captain. He was exceedingly affected when we told him of his death, and shewed him the coffin that contained his body. He signified his intention of send- ing off an express to the commander of Bolcheretsk, to acquaint him with our arrival; and Captain Gore avail- ed himself of that occasion of writing him a letter, in which he requested that sixteen head of black cattle might be sent with all possible expedition. in the morning cf the 25th, Captain Gore made out the new commissions, inconsequence of Captain Clerke*s death ; appointing himself to the command of the Re- solution ; and me< to the command of the Discovery ; snd Mr. Lanyan, master*s mate of the Resolution, who had served in that capacity on board the Adventure in the former voyage, was promoted to the vacant lieu- tenancy. These promotions produced several other ^ arrangements of course. The artificers were now busily employed in the necessary repairs. Oo Sunday afternoon, August the 29th, we paid the last offices to Captain Clerke. The officers and men of both ships walked in procession to the grave^ whilst the ships fired minute guns ; and the servicf^ being ended, ' the marines fired three vollies. He was interred under a tree, which stands on a rising ground, in the valley to the north side of the harbour, where the hospital and .store-houses are situated. All the Russians in the . garrison were assembled, and attended with great respect and solemnity. The next day an ensign arrived from Bolcheretsk, with a letter from the commander to Captain Gore ; by which we understood, that orders had been given about the cattle ; and that they might be expected here in a few days ; and moreover, that\Captain Shamaleff, the present commander, would himself pay us a visit immediately on the arrival of a sloop which was daily expected from Okotsk. ri^l j^/^ The 22d, being the anniversary of his Majesty's co- ronation, twenty-one guns were fired^ and the h^nd- CAPTAIN COOK. itlo>v 317 ] someit feast our situation would in honour of the day. As we were sitting 'down to dinner, the arrival of Captain ShamalefT was announced. lie acquainted us, that our not having received the sixteen head of black cattle^ we had desired might be sent down, was owing to the very heavy rains at Verchnei, which had prevented their setting out. Spe- cimens of all our curiosities were presented to him ; and Captain Gore added to them a gold watch and a fowling-piece. Next morning he took his leave. The next day I set on foot a small hunting party, and put myself under the direction of the clerk of the parish, who was a celebrated bear- hunter. We arrived by sun-set at the side of one of the larger lakes. The next step was to conceal ourselves as much as possible ; and this we were able to do very effectually among some long grass and brush-wood, that grew close to the water's edge. We had not lain long in ambush, before we had the pleasure to hear the growlings of bears in different parts round about us; and our expectations were soon gratified by the sight of one of them in the water, which seemed to 'je swimming directly to the place where we lay hid. The moon at this time gave a considerable light ; and when the animal had advanced about fifteen yards, three of us fired at it pretty nearly at the same time. I'he beast immediateity turned short on one side, and made a noise which could not properly be called roaring, nof growling, nor yelling, but was a mixture of all three, and horrible beyond description. It retreated to some (hick bushes, at a little distance^ and continued to make the same terrible noise ; and though the Kamtschadales were persuaded it was mor- tally wounded^ they thought it most advisable not to rouse it again for the present. It was at this time past nine o'clock, and the night threatening a change of weather, we returned home, and deferred the gratifica- tion of our curiosity till morning, when we found the bear dead in the placfe to which it had been watched. It proved to be a female, and beyond the common size. Dda : ^ !?■: I 1518 .VOYAGES OF No occurrence worth mentioning took place till the 30th, when Captain Gore went to Paratounca, to put up, in the church there, an escutcheon, prepared by Mr. Webher, with an inscription upon it, setting fortn Captain Cierke*s age and rank, and the object of the expedition in which he was engaged at the time of his decease. We also affixed to the tree, under which be was buried, a board, with an inscription upon it to the lame effect. ^ On the 2d of October, both ships warped out of the harbour, the day before the cattle arrived from Verch- nei ; and that the men might receive the full benefit of this much longed-for supply, by consuming it fresh. Captain Gore came to a determination of staying, five or six days longer. At four in the afternoon of the Othj, we unmoored i and now took our leave of this place. After experiencing very blowing weather and adverse winds, which put us out of the course originally i^T tended, at day-break of the 26th, we had the pleasure of descrying nigh land to the westward, which proved to be Japan. On the Spth, at nine oVlock, the wind shifting ^0 the southward, ahd the sky lowering, we tacked, and stood off to the east, and soon after saw a vessel close in with the l^nd» standing along the shore to the northward ; and another in the offing, coming down on us before the wind* Objects of any kind, be-t longing to a country so famous, and^yet so little known, it will be easily conceived, must have excited a general curiosity, and accordingly every soul on board was upon deck, in an instant, to gaze at them. As the vessel to windward approached us, she hauled farther off shore ; upon which, fearing that we should alarm theipn by the appearance of a pursuit, we brought the ships to, an4 .she passed ahead of us, at the distance of about half a mile. It would have been easy for us to have spoken with them } but perceiving, by their manoeuvres, that they were much frightened. Captain Gore was not willing to augment their terrors ; and thinking that we should have many better opportunities of communica* 0th, CAPTAIH COOK« 319 tion with this people, suffered them to go off without interruption. From the 29th of October to the 5th of Noveirbcff we continued our course to the south-east, having rtrf unsettled weather, attended with much iightning an4 rain. On both days we passed great qualnt^'ties of pu* mice-stone, several pieces of which we took up, and found to weigh from one ounce to three poundi. We conjectured that these stones had been thrown into the sea by eruptions of various dates, as many of them wer« covered with barnacles, and otiiers quite bare. On the 15th, we, saw three islands, and bore zwzf for the south poiift of the largest, upon which we ob« served a high barren hill, flattish at the top, and when seen from the west south- we«t, presents an evident volcanic crater, l^ho earth, rocli^, or saiad. for it was not t-asy to distinguish of which its surface is composed^ exhibited various, coiours,^ and a considerable' part we conjectured to be sulphur, bo:'i\ from ks appearance te the eye, and the sKong '^ulphureotu sm^U which we perceived as. we approached the point. Some of the ofEcers on hoard the Resolution, which p93sed nearec the land, thought they saw steams rising from the top of the hill. From these circumstances, Captain Gpre gave it thp name of Sulphur Isjlandf In the n^orning; of the 3(kh, we ran along the Xjema Isles. A.t nine o*clock, a Chinese boat, which had b^en before with the Resolution, can\e along-side, and wanted to put on board us a pilot, which, however, we deciii)Qd,, as i% was our business to follow our consort. At two in th^ afternoon, on the 13.th, baviag got un« der sail, the Resolution saluied the fort of M.acap with, eleven guns, which was returned with th^same num<- ber. In the morning of the 20th, we steered for PuJa Condore ; and at half past twelve we got sight of the island. As soon as we were come to anchor, Captahi Gore 6red a gun, with a view of apprizing the natives of our arrival, and drawing them towards the shore^ but without eifect. £arly in the morning of the Slst* parties were sent to cut wood, which was Captaia Gore*s pi:incipal mouve for cone/mg hithex:* ■ l«*t 3liO VOYAGES OF . None of the natives having yet made their appear* ance, notwithstanding a second gun had been fired. Captain Gore thought it adviseable to land, and go in search of them. V\e proceeded through a thick wood, lip a steep hill, to the distance of a mile, when, after ^descending, we arrived at some huts. I ordered the party to stajr without, lest the sight of so many armed men should terrify the inhabitants, whilst I entered and re- connoitred alone. I found in one of the huts an elderly nan, who was in a great fright, and preparing to make off with his most valuable effetts. However, a few signs, particularly that most significant one of holding out a handful of dollars, and then pointing to a herd of bufialoes, and the fowls that were running about the ihuts in ^reat numbers, left him without any doubis as to the objects of our visit.. He pointed towards a place V'here the town stood, and mide us comprehend that, by going thither, all our v»aiits would be supplied. He ordered a young man to conduct us to the town, as soon as an obstacle should be removed, of which we ivere not aware. We were now conducted to the town, which con- sists of between twenty and thirty houses, built close together. By means of my money, and pointing at different objects in sight, 1 had no diflficuity in making a man, who seemed to be the principal person of the company to which we were introduced, comprehend the main business of our errand ; and 1 ?s readily im- dei stood from him, that the chief or captain was absent, but would soon return; and that Without his consent, ^no purchases of any kind could be made. Having at last procured a supply of buffaloes, and some lat hogs, on the 28th of January, 1780, we un- jiicored ; and, as. soon as we were clear of the har- bour, steered south south-west. Oh the 2d of Fi;- l»iuary, at eight in the morning, we tried for soundinr,s, continuing to do the same every hour, till we had pars- ed the Straits of Sunda, and (bund the bottom wita iweiuy-tliree liathor.igf Une#^, , iin CAPTAIN CO«K. Zil In the iporning of the 9th, 1 received orders froia Captain Gore to make sail towards a Dutch ship, which now hove in sight to the southward, and which we sup«r • posed to be from £urope ; and, according to the na* turc of the intelligence we courd procure from her, ei« ther to join him at Cracatoa, where he intended to stop^ ^ for ^he purpose cf supplying the ships with arrack^ or' - to proceed to the south-east end of Prince's Island^ itad there take in our water, and wait for him. : I accordingly bore down towards the Dutch ship^ . which soon after came to an anchor to the eastward ; and having got as near her as the tide would permit^ we also dropt anchor. Next morning Mr. Williamson got on board the ship, and learnt that she had been seven months from £urope, and three from the Cape o( Good Hope ; that, before she sailed, France and Spain had declared war against Great Britain ; and that stie left 3ir Eld ward Huehes, with a squadron of men of war, and a fleet of East India ships, at the Oape. I immediately sent a boat to acquaint Captain Gore mt^ the intelligence we had received. At three o*clock in the mornine of the 12th, we stood over for f^rince^s Island, and came to an anchor ' within half a mile of the shore. Lieutenant L^nyan, v^ho had been here before with Captain Cook in , the year 1770, was sent along with the master to look, fop the watering-place. The natives, who came to us soon after we anchored, brought a plentiful supply of large ' fowls, and some turtles ; but the last, for the most part, were very small. On the 19th, being favoured by a breeze from the '. north-west, we broke ^roun^, and the next day bad entirely lost sight of this place. Of this island t shall ^ only observe, that we were exceedingly struck with the great general resemblance of the natives, both in figure^ colour, manners, and even language, to the nations w« had been so much conversant with in the South Seas. It had hitherto been Captain Gore^s intention to pro* ceed directly to St. Helena, without stopping at the Cape ; but the rudder of the Resolution having been reported to be in a dangerous tta^te, he resolved tfi s(ee( i 322 VOYAGES OF CAPTAIN COOK. immediately for the Cape, 99 the most eligible place both for the recovery of the sick^ and for the repair of the rudder. In the forenoon of the 10th of April, a •now was teen bearing down to us, which provecf to be an English East India packet that had left Table Bay three days before^ and was cruising with orders for the Iphina 6eet, and other India ships. • The ne;[V inorning we stood into Simon's Bay. We found lying here the Nassau and Southampton Eatt Indiamen, waiting for convoy for Europe. I'he Keso- lution saluted the fort with eleven guns, and the same .number was retumedt Mr, Brandt, the governor of this placet came to visit us as soon as we had ^inchored. He appeared much surprised to see our crew in 10 rJbealtby a condition, as the Dutch ship, that had left !Macao on our arrival there, and had touched at the Cape some tiine before, reported that we were in a most wretched state* having only fourteen hands left on board the Resolution, ana seven on board the Disco^^ fmery. It is not' ea&y to conceive the motive these peo- ple could have had for propagating so wanton and ma*' iicioui a falsehood. During our stay at the Cape^ we met with, every proof of the most friendly disposition ^towards iis, both in the governor and principal persons -of the place, as well Africans as Europeans. Havmg completed our victualling, and furnished our' selves with the necessary supply of naval stores, we sail- ;ed out of the bay on the dth of May. On the 12th of Jiineji we passed the equator for the fourth time during this voyage. On the 12th of August, we made the ^uestem coast of Irebnd ^ andi after a fruitless attempt lV> g^t into Port Galway, from whence it was Capta^i , Gore's intention to have seqt the journals and maps of . our voyage to X^ndon^ we were obliged, by strong ^^•outherly winds, to steer to the northward. On the 22d ^f>f August, at eleven in the morning, both ships caxxie to an an anchor at Stromness ; and on the 4th day of Oc- .^tober the ships arrived safe at the Nore, after an ab- ^^sence of four years, two months, and twenty-four days. 45t.>o j^.»4^i?tv ■.;^, [T. Maiden, Sbcrbourn-lane, 9»'*i-« LIT ^-SSfi- ■; -4 -HI, ''-i.'fvt *1P«*5« * ■tP.ii- Viy %• 7T*-.'(. ,.4.Jf4J ^v-44j ', .. Y. 4« : ^ ^ If: • £ifV Y.^ t