^j^' r > ! ,:;.^JJfe, ^YES' HAND-BOO^ *%^ OF NORTHERN ^y Pleasure Travel TO THE l^fOSTO^ WHITE AND PEAITCONIA ^SH MOUNTAINS MI@>iNTAm-S: ERN LAKES kl and Quebec. ^ -w-ifT'' '■ %J^ iMaEIIlMiiEiHQffiliil LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE. SENTER HOUSE, eENTRE HARBQR. SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA, Lake and Mountain Region of New Hampshire, ♦♦♦ This large and well-known Summer House stands on a slight emi- nence at the head of the Winnipesaiikee, and from its broad piazzas (alone of all the hotels in this region) commands a clear and un- obstnicted view of the entire length of this wonderful lake. Its situation for picturesque beauty is unequalled in New England, while the charming walks and drives in all directions, winding am<'ng the hills and skirting the shores of the lake, introduce the tourist to the mai-velous scenery of the surrounding country, sung by the poet Whittier, " The Heart of the Highlands." First-class Orchestra in constant attendance during the summer montlis. New Billiard Rooms and Bowling Alleys have lately been added, while accommodations for boating, fishing, and bathing, are excelk'oir Large Livery Stable, thoroughly equipped in all its details, con- nected with the H(Mel. Wishing to induce travelers to visit this region during the pleapant months of the year, liberal discount will be made >pi»!e Crown 38 " Mount Prospect 45 " Mowil.iuk 43 " Mr. Wiishington..03,0ft,98 " Mt. Washington by rail. .78 " Mt. Wash, by carrl. rM. . 98 " •• " brldlepatb.iW « «'OwlsHead" 137 Ascutney Mountain 159 Ashland, N. H 44 Bartlett 92 Basin ....71 B.,C. & M. R. R 35 Beecber's Falls Cascatle 86 Bellows Falls. Vt . . 157 Bethlehem, N. H 52 Bjston, routes from 26, 28 Biwton & Maine R.E 28 Boston to Canada^ routes 26, 28 Boston to Mountains, routes. .26, 23 Boston to Mt. Wash. Summit route, via Wins road & Mountain R.R. 53 Bra4iford,Vt 160 Bratnleboro', Vt 157 Brooks House 157 Burlington, Vt 147 Camel's Hump Mountain 146 Cannon Mountain 68 Cascades, Franconia Mountains .72 Cathedral, (^ueb jc 122 Cathedral of Notre Dame 113 Centre Harbor, N. H 37 Cherry Mountain 59 Chu u}rua .107 Claremont, N. H 158 Colebrook, N. H 59 Concord, N. H 30 Concord to the Mountains, route.. 34 Conway, N. H 102 Conway, North 103 Conway through the Notch 91 Copple Crown Mountain 38 Crawford House 85 Crawford Notch 86 Crawfords, The 65 Crystal Cascade 96 Dartmouth College, N. H 159 Devil's Den 106 Diana's Bath 106 Distancas 9 Dixville Notch 59 Down the St. Lawrence 114 Eagle Clitf. 67 Eagle Hotel 31 Eastern Railroad 103 Bast River 13 Echo Lake, Franconia 68 Echo Lake, North Couway .105 rxon Elevations 7 Emerald Pool 06 F/ihvan House •• 77 Fail River 20 Falls, Montmorencl 124 " Qlen Ellis 07 " Atnmonusuc •.••77 " Harvard.... T3 " Qibbs 85 " Artist's 107 '• on Vvalanche Brook 89 Flume, Franconia Notch 72 •' Crawford " 39 " Dixville " 60 " House, Franconia 72 Framlngham, M iss 19 Franconia Mountains 63 Franconia, N. H 61 Franconia Notch ^ Fryeburg. Me 107 Girnet Pojls 96 Glen House and Olon 91 Crorham, N. H. and vicinity.. .00, 99 Gorham to the Notch 101 Grand Trunk Railway 59 Great Gulf Oi Greenfleld, Mass 1-56 Hartford, Conn H Hell Gate 13 Hermit Lake 97 Historical and Descriptive 64 Holyoke, Mass 154 Hotel Tablet H Imp Mountain 99 Island House 158 Islands of Winnipesaukee 41 Jackson Falls 93 Jackson, N. H. 92 Jay's Peak 139 Jefferson Hills 57 Jeffer*K)n, N. H 101 Lachine Rapids. 114 Laconia, N. H 35 " Lady of the Lake" boat 42 Lake Champlain 148 Lake Mempnremaj?og, trip on.. . .136 Lake Village, N. H 36 Lake Winnipesaukee 41 Lancaster House 56 Lancaster, N. H 54 Lawrence, Mass. r .28 Littleton, N. H 50 " " Hotels 50 Lonsj Island Sound 14 Lowell, Mass 26 Magog, Lake Memphremagog . . . 141 Manchester, N. H 26 Memphremagog Lake 1.35 ]Mereu>o 8-' «« '« In winter 84 M •• Kail way 78 «« *• Steamer 40 " . •' Summit view.. 82 •' " the descent.... K') Mt. Willanl, drive to summit of..8>' New llavfii, Conn '-•> New Lori(i<)ii, Conn l'"> Newi)ort, It. 1 3i' Newport, Vt 133 New York City 13 New York, routes from. .15, 17, 19, '2A NortlitinilHjrlaud Junction 5!) Norlliamiilun, MaM l.')4 North Conway, N. H 103 " " routes to and from 103 Nortliern N. H. K.R 153 Noi wich, Conn 10 Notch, Dixville 51) Notrli, gates of. b6 Notcli, pafsa^e of 80 Uake'tiCuif. 90 Owls Head Mountain 137 I'a^sumiKsic Kiver Kuilroud 130 I'eabody Kiver !»5 Pemigewasset House 45 Pemigewasset Kiver and Valley ..47 I'titjuaket MountMin 104 Plienix House 32 Pilot Hills 100 Pinkham Notch 93 Plains of Abraham IL'7 Plattsburg, N. Y 149 Plymouth, N. H 44 Pool, Franconia Notcli 73 Portland & Ogdei.sburg R.R 131 Potter Place 159 Preface 5 Piotile House andvicinitv 66 Profile Mountain and Lake 70 Profile (stone face) 63, 69 Providence, R. 1 21 Quebec 118 Randolph Hill 99 KedHiil 37 Richmond, P. Q 117 Rocky Point, R. 1 22 Routes, all rail 21, 24, 26, 28 Routes, boat aud rail 15, 17 Rutlnnd, Vt KVl Saco HIver 86 Saco Valley 92 Sngncnny River 12H Sawyer's Hock 92 Bebiigo Liike 109 Sent cr I louHe 37 Silver Caocaile 89 Snj uggler's Notch 146 Sounifsteamers 13 South Eastern Railway 141 South Vernon 156 S|iringtie1d, Masf> 24 S<|uam Lake 47 Starr King Mountain 59 St. Albans, Vt 150 Steamer " I^Jidy (»f the Lake" 42 St. .lohnhbury, Vt 131 St. Lawrence River 114 Stowe, Vt 143 Sugar River Railroad 158 Suniniit House 82 Sunnvside House 57 Thompson's Falls 06 Tip-Top Hou«e 82 Trotter House, Bradford, Vt 160 Tmkerman's Ravine 96 Twin Mountain House 75 Vernumt Central Railroad 142 Victoria Bridge Ill Views from Moosehillock Summit 48 " Mount Relknnp 36 " Mount Washington. , .'.82 " Mount Pcquaket 105 " Pro8i)ect Hill 45 " Red Hill 37 View of the pi otile 69 AValker'8 Falls 71 Warren, N. H 48 Waterbury, Vt Hg Waterbury House 143 Waumbek House 57 Weirs (Lake Station) 37 Welden House. St. Albans 151 Wells River. Vt 160 Whitetield, N. H 53 White IVIountains, general view. ...61 White Mountain House 76 White Mountain Le«lges 105 White Mountain Notch 86 White River Junction 159 Willev House 88 AVilloughby l.ake 132 Winds(»r, Vt 159 Wing Railway 52 Winnipesaukee Lake 41 Winooski, Vt 147 AV inter above the Clouds 84 Wolf borough 38 Wolfborough Hotels 39 Wolfe, General 127 Worcester 26 Your Outfit 6 PREFACE. The object of this Hand-Book Is to give the traveler or tourist, who wisely spends his summer vacation among the grand old hills and gleaming lakes of northern New England, such description of attractive routes to the mountains, the lakes and the Canadian cities, and information regarding important points and localities, either of trade, of picturesque scenery, or of historic interest, as will insure the preservation of this volume, for its plain merits as a guide, and invite perusal for its brief and truthful pictures of the romantic region, where thousands seek and find a blessing in the calm repose of great hills and the song and laughter of mountain streams. Not seeking or expecting to supplant the peculiar excellence and rare merit of the elaborate works of predecessors, we admit, with special pleasure, the value of Eastman's "White Mountain Guide Book," the rare literary merit and truthful and poetic description in Starr King's "White Hills," Willey's "Sketches of White Mountain History," and Burt's "Connecticut Valley Guide." The valuable aid of these and other works is gratefully acknowledged. 'o* Boston, Jane 1873. TOUE OUTFIT. If you are a genuine pedestrian, and intent on near personal contact with nature in the nooks and by-ways, or on crags and ledges, through forests, along the channels of streams or on wind- swept summits, or if you are inclined to sporting, be first sub- stantially and firmly shod, and make ample provision against the cold of high altitudes and dashing mountain showers, by ap- propriate clothing in reserve, the quality and quantity of which your own good sense will regulate. Reduce the bulk of your baggage as near as may be to the necessities of the tour, avoid patent-leather and broad-brims, and "take money in thy purse," for there is rare recompense for its expenditure among the hills. ELEVATIONS ABOVE SEA LEVEL: FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. Mount Lafayette, 5,000 feeU Mount Cannon, or Profile Mountain, - - - 3,500 ** MoosUauk, 4,636 " THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. Mount Washington, 6,285 feet. Mount Jefferson, 5,700 '* Mount Adams, -.----- 5,800 Mount Munroe, ------- 6,400 Iklount Madison, ------- 5,400 Mount Clay, 5,400 Mount Franklin, 4,900 Mount Pleasant, 4,800 Mount Clinton, ----*--- 4,200 Mount Jackson, ------- 4,100 Mount Webster, 4,000 (< M (( (( (( (( it it Mount Carter, 5,000 feet. Mount Moriah, - ------ 4,700 Mount Hayes, -------- 2,500 Pequaket or Kiarsarge (at North Conway), - - 3,367 Chucorua, -------- 3,358 Mount Prospect (near Plymouth), - - - - 2,968 Eed Hill (near Centre Harbor), - - . - 2,500 Copple Crown Mount (near Wolfborough), - - 2,100 Alpine House — Gorham, ----- 802 Bethlehem, -------- 1,450 Crawford House, 1,920 Fabyan House, - - - - - - - 1,551 Flume House, - 1,431 Glen House, 1,632 Profile House, — Franconia Notch, - - - - 1,974 Willey House,— White Mountain Notch, - - 1,3:35 Wiuuipesaukee Lake, - - -. - - - 496 8 ELETATIONS. Pinkham Notch, (highest point), - - - - 2,018 feet. Fraiiconia Notch, (highest point), - - - - 2,014 " Plyinoutli, 473 " Lancaster, ' - - - 8(>0 " Littleton, 817 " Conway Intervales, - - - - - - 171" Concord, N. H., Depot, - 230 " MOUNTAINS IN VERMONT. Mount M'ansfleld, 4,348 feet. Camel's Hump, 4,083 '' Jay Peak, 4,018 " Mount Willoughby, 3,800 " Ascutney, (near Windsor), ----- 3,320 " MOUNTAINS IN CANADA. . Owl's Head, near Lake Memphremagog, - - 2,740 feet. Mount Orford, - - - - '- - - 3,300 " Lake Cliamplain, - - - - - - - ' 90 '* Lake Meraphremagog, ----._ ^34 <» Lake Willoughby, - - - - - 1 1G2 " DISTANCES VIA BOSTON, CONCORD AND MONTREAL RAILROAD. From Concord. FromBoeton. To MileH. Milei* Northfleld, :Nr. H., 13 87 Tilton, N. II., 18 92 Laconia, N. H., 27 101 Lake Village, N H., 29 103 Weirs — Lake Winnipesaukee Station, - - 34 108 Centre Harbor — 10 miles bv boat, - - 44 118 Wollboroiigh— 17 miles by boat, - - - 51 119 North Conway — via Centre Harbor, by boat, stage and rail, ----- 75 149 Meredith Village, N. H., - - - - 38 112 Ashland, N.H., 46 120 Plymonth, N". H., 51 125 Rumney, N. H., 59 133 West Rumney, N. H., - . - - e>2 136 Wentworth, N. H., 67 141 Warren, N.H., ------ 70 144 Haverhill, X. H., 85 159 Woodsville, - r. H , 93 167 Wells River, Vermont (junction with Pas- " sumpsic and Montpelier Railways), - 93^ 167^ Bath, N. H„ - - - - - - 98 172 Lisbon, N. H., 104 178 Littleton — 1 1 miles staging from this point to Profile House, 113 ^Sl Wing Road (diverges from Main line), - 119 193 Bethlehem (on Wing Railroad;, - - 125 199 Twin Mountain House Station, (present ter- minus Wing Road), - - - - 129 203 Whitefield, X. H., 125 199 Dalton, N. H., 129 * 203 Lancaster, N. H., 135 209 Northumberland, N. H. (junction with Grand Trunk Railway), 1 - - - - 145 219 North Stratford, N. H., (on Grand Trunk line), 158 232 10 DISTANCE TABLE, To. Milef. Milei. Sherbrooke, P. Q. (on Grand Trunk junctiou with Passumpsic), 219 293 Riclnnond, P. Q. (on Grand Trunk junction witli Quebec division), - - - - 244 318 Montreal, 320 394 Quebec, via Northumberland, - - - 340 414 Montpelier, Vt., (via Wells River and new line to Montpelier, nearly completed), 132 206 Waterbury, Vt, (via Wells lliver, stage for Stowe, Vt.,) 140 214 Stowe, VL, (10 miles staging from Water- bury), 150 224 Newport, Vt., (via Passumpsic Railroad from Wells River), 158 232 Lake Meinphremagog, ----- 158 232 Essex Junction, Vt., 1G2 236 Burlington, Vt., 108 242 HOTEL TABLET. Ploce. Andover. Mass., Athol Depor, Maw*., Alhiirgb Springs, Vt., Boston, INIjt^B.. Bellows Falls, Vt., liurlington, Vt., Bradford, Vr., Brandon, Vt., lirattinboro, Vt., Biddeford, Me., Centre Harbor, N. H. Castleton, Vt., Concc-d, N. H., Clarendon Springs, Vt., Caldwell, N. Y., East Providence, R. I., Fort Edward, N. Y., Fitihburg, Mass., Fitzwilliams. N. H., Great Fall?, N. H., Hoo.«ac Tunr.el, Mass., Hampton, N. H., Lvndonville, Vt., Lake Village, Vt., Lawrence, Mass., Laconia, N. H,, Lennoxville, P. Q., Manchester, N. H., Montreal, P. Q., Meredith, N. H., Milford, Mass., Middleboro, Vt., Montpelier, Vt., Newport, Vt., North Adams, Mass., Newport, N. H., Newbury port, Maw., New Bedford, IVi ass., Pittstield, N. H., Plattsburg, N. Y., Providence, K. I., Portsmouth, N. H., Peteiboro, N. H., Pittbford, Vt., Quebec, P. Q., .• (i Rochester, N. R., Rutland, Vt. Kocky Point, R, I., Name. Mansion House, Peaquoig House, Alburgh Springs House, Clarendon Hotel, Island House, American House, Trotter House, Brandon House, Brooks House, Biddefonl House, Senter House, Lake Bomoseen House, Phenlx Hotel, Eagle Hotel, Clarendon House, Ft. Wm. Henry Hotel, Riverside Hotel. St. James Hotel, American House, Cheshire House, Granite State Hotel, Hoosac House, Union House, Walker House, Mount Belknap House, Franklin House, Laconia House, Buck's Hotel, National Hotel, Montreal House, Prospect House, Milford House, Addison House, Pavilion Hotel, Memphremagog House, Ballou House, Phenix Hotel, Merrimac House, Parker House, Washington House, Fouq net's Hotel, City Hotel, Rockingham House, French's Hotel, Otter Creek House, St. Louis Hotel. Clarendon Hotel, Dodge's Hotel, Berwick House, Rocky Point Hotel, Prop, and Man. Charles L. Carter. A. Bangs. H. H. Howe. J. Pickering Draper. S. C.Fleming. Crane »Sc Stacy. H. E. Harris. R. Deming. Charles G. Lawrence. J. C. Fobbins. J. L. Huntress. L. Collins. J. R. Crocker. John A.White. B. Murray. J. Rocssle & Son. Hopkins & Sears. J, N. Moore. W. F. Day & Co. O. K. Wlieelock, R. H. Hussey. r. E. Locke. Smith & Whittier. G. B. Walker. D. B. Story. T. W. Huse. W. C. Wylie. F. P. Buck. A. C. Wallace. Decker & Co. G. M. Burleigh. Hapgood Brothers. Darwin Ryder. R. T. Aldricli. W. F. Bowman. M. Ballou & Sons. J. H, Brown. Geo. Montgomery. Bullock & Brownell. T. B. Tucker. L. M. Fouquet. L. H. Hnmphrev. G. W. & J. S. Pierce. C. E. Robinson. S. S. Scotield. Willis Russell. J. T. Dodge. M. K. Hotchkiss, L. H. Humpluey. /. 12 HOTEL TABLET. Place. SftllBburv. Vt., Samly U\\, N. Y., Stowe.Vt., South Vernon, Vt., Slt©rbn>oke, I*. Q., «< SpringfieM, Mass., Saratoga Springs, N. Y. t( ■ u- ' 4( « (1 M II M II II II M It II Virgenncs Winooaki, "VNolfboro, « II Vt., vt., N. H., II ■Williamsfown, Mags., "NVincbendm, Mass., Wells River, Vt., WoonscK'ket, R. I., White River June, Vt., West Rutland, Vt., Nome. Lake Diinniore Hotel, Cottee H<>iu*e, Mt. Maiif-tteld Hotel, South Vernon House, Continental Hotel, Clark'h Hotel, Sherl>rot)ke House, Magog House, Massasoit House, Congress ILill, American Hole!, Arlington House, Columbian Hotel, Continental Hotel, Grand Hotel, Union Hotel, Clarendon Hotel, Stevens House, Stevens House, Pavilion Hotel, Glenden Hotel, Belvue House, Greylock Hall, Moiiadnock House, Monument House, Junction House, Barnes House, Prop, and Mon. E. P. Hitiluock. N. W.Clark. N. P. Keeler. D. L. Priest. P. A. Cam i rand. Stephen Clark. W. Chamberlain. H. S. Helpburn. Hathorn & SouthirHte. BnJimeti& McCaftVey. Campbell & Shaw. 1). O. I)o< II ek House, Jeflt'erson Hill House, Lancaster House, Oak Hill House, LTnion House, Mason's Hotel, Randall House, Intervale House McMillan House, Sunset Pavilion, Pemigewasset House, Banks House, Moosilauk, House, Gleu House, D. W. Ranlet. Walcott, Lindsay «& French , RounsTel & Co. A. T. & O. F. Barron. L. H. Eastman. I>. E. Pendexter. Taft & Greeiileaf. Merrill & Plaisted. Roby & Bedell. B. H. Corning. C. C. Knapp. W. Jenniij'On. F. H. Mason. J. T. Randall. Mudgeit & Eastman, Jolm McMillan. M. L. Mason. C. M. Morse. J. L. Plummer, D. G. Mai-sh. J. ?L Thompson & Co. f THE STAET FROM NEW YORK. Leaving New York city by either line of tlie ina^iflcent Sound steamei-s, from Nortli River, glancing dov, n the grind harbor, and rounding the southern extremity of Manhattan. Is- land, the once fashionable and central locality of the Battery" and Castle Garden attract attention, with the circular swell ot Governor's Island, once, no doubt, a portion of Long Is- land, the frowning guns of Ciistle William, the South Battery, and the waters of Buttermilk Channel, all of noticeable hnport- ance, in the growth and life of the great metropolis, or fi'om his- torical associations claiming attention as you proceed. Passing along East River the track of the steamer crosses the line of the Brooklyn ferries and between the piers of the im- mense bridge, now constructing, to unite the City of Churches with New York. Upon the left, in full view, is the great city. 60 changed since the days when good Heinrich Hudson founded the Dutch town of "Nieuw Amsterdam," — the embryo New York, — and the Dutch Commodore Van Cortland sailed through this same river into the perils of Hell Gate. Along the city's water front are acres of sailing craft from every quarter, with the products of the soil, of mines, and the industries of the world; to the right, the heights and elegant residences of Brooklyn, where, also, are the United States Docks and Navy Yard of this the great naval station of the country. Black- well's Island, a long, narrow strip of land, lying along the centre of the river, attracts attention, as the spot where are located the reformatory, charitable, and corrective institutions of m the metropolis. Hell Gate is a narrow and tortuous passage, six miles from New York, where, during the rise and fall ol tides, the waters U THE START FROM NEW YORK. from the Sound arc lashed Into seething commotion. The rocks and whirlpools are designated by the musical names of " The Gridiron," **The Frying Pan," "Pot Rock," "Pot Cove," "Ilog's Back," etc. Passing Ward's and Randall's Island, Port Morris and Flushing, at " Throgg's Neck," thirteen miles from New York, on which is Fort Schuyler, with three hundred guns, we enter the waters of LONG ISLAND SOUND, This iflland highway for navigation between New England and the great centre of national commerce and trade, is about one hundred and ten miles in length, from twenty to thirty miles wide in its central and broadest waters, and is navigable lor the largest vessels. The northern shore has an irregular coast line, giving harbor facilities which are the sure nurseries of thriving towns, and naturally leading to commercial activity. We are now fairly launched upon our way, and, if the night is fine, a jovial, happy crowd, who have left their cares behind, and with them the restraints of metropolitan life, promenade the decks. Soft strains of music, nowhere so sweet as out upon the waters, on some of these fine boats, cheer the admiring passen- gers, and ♦ "All goes merry as a marriage bell." But, one by one, the crowd drop off for needed rest. At waking we will take a comprehensive view of the routes by which we are to proceed. ROUTE. From New York to Concord, N. It. By Boat and Rail from New York by tub Norwich Line of Sveamers, via Worcester and Nashua. These fine boats, "City of New York" and "City of Boston," 16 TIA NORWICH. leave Pier N"©. 40, North Klver, at 5 o'clock p. M. Tlir ^ '"»ve a. the appointments and conveniencies to be found upou ^'t .U of any inland waters, passing in full view of the great city, me surrounding objects of interest and tne suburban towns along the Long Island shore, more fully described in the opening pages. Passengers by this route incur little risk from storms or inconvenience from rough weather, arriving at New London at 4.00 A. M., thence by the Norwich and Worcester Railway, with eleput parlor cars, which are not excelled, if equalled, on any •*UiTY OF WuKCJiHTKR." railway line, to Worcester, the heart of the Commonwoalth, (receiving at this point the travel centreing here from converg- ing roads), and, after taking time for breakfast, proceed, via AYtR's JuKCTioN, (coDLccliug there with train from Fitchburg,) to Nashua and Manchester along the valley of the Mernmac Kiver, (receiving at Manchester passengers from Portsmouth and the East) ; thence to Concord, N. H., from which point the route to the mountains is fully described in the following pages. Note. — New London, tbree miles from the mouth of the Thames River, has become of late years a fashionable summer resort. The surrounding scenery is attractive and picturesque, and the harbor the best on the Sound, and one of the best in the country, enclosed by hills and guarded at the en- trance by grim Fort Trumbull. In the palmy days of whale Ashing this was second only to New Bedford in that interest. The Custom House and City Buildings are substantial structures. Banking facilities and manu- facturing interests are important, and the e&rly history of the town is of rare interest. Norwich is at the head of navigation on the Thames Hirer, thirteen miles from New London. The location is commanding, built upon the steep hillside, lying between the lirers which unite to form the Thames. The manufacturing portion of the town is in a valley enclosed by hills. Cottons, woolens, paper and machinery are the chief products. The terri- tory comprised in the town was purchased of Uncas and his sons for the sum of seventy pounds. A large banking and insurance business is car- ried on at this place. The ** Falls of the Yantic " are about a mile from its outlet, and should be visited by those who tarry here. f r.OUTE. From New York to Concord ^ N, FT. By Boat and Rail From Nkw Yokk via Fall River Line of Steamfhs. • Startini? at 5 o'clock r.M. from Now York, Piers No. 28 nin\ 30, jlonh River, these iJaliUial boats— the fluest that float upon iii- '•A 2 < as V3 18 BOUTE FROM NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H. laiKl waters— the "Bhihtoi" and "Providenck," each fur- rjij«he(l with an excellent hand of music durlug tht; 8ea.son of summer travel, with large Btuterooins li;?hted by gan, will 'A A > 03 'A H Ed O o o A proceed through the whole length of the Sound and Nanagan- sett Bay, affording the fine views of the metropolis and surround- ings described in the preceding pages, giving a longer sail and less distance by rail, with same time and fare, as other routes, and arrive at Fall River — the champion manufacturing oity ot New England— on Mount Hope Bay, an arm of Narragansett VIA FALL RIVER. 19 liay, at the confluence of Tuunton and Fall Rivers, at alniut 4 o'clock A.M. Passengers are called for breakfjist at 5 J o*clock; after lircak- lusting, take the line parlor car *Tl,ymoutu" or "Newport," or the elegant monitor top cars of this line, and proceed by express train, stopping only at important points, to Concord, Lake Winnipesaukee, Plymouth, Littleton, (from here to ProtUe House by stage), Bethlehem, Twin MounUiin Station (nearest to Mount Washington and Crawford House at the Notch,) the new Fabyan Place, Crawford House and Mount Washington House on summit of Mount Washington, or to Lancaster (stage from here to Jefferson Hill) and Northumberland — -junction with Graud Trunk Railway for Montreal or Quebec. Note.— This train receives at Taunton passengers from New Bedford and Cape Cod Railroads; at Mansfield connects witli train from Provitlence and Shore Line from New York; at Framinoham with train from New York, via Hartford and Springfield; tlience over the Framingham and Lowell Railroad to Acton, and from thence to Nashua by the New Nashua and Acton railway just opened to public travel. This new road is built in the most thorough manner ; the cars are new, and built with all the modern improvements and conveniences with reference to the comfort and safety of patrons. The road passes through a series of thriving interior towns, and is an important link in the through line from New York and Provi- dence to Northern New England, connecting at Nashua with the through express trains for the north, (no change of cars), proceeding through Man- chester (receiving at Manchester passengers from Portsmouth and the east), and continuing through the valley of the Merrimack to Concord, N. H., 20 ROUTE FKOM NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H. from which point the route to the lake and mountains is fully described in ]>age8 following. Passengers who stop for any length of time at Fall Rive r will not lose the fine view ftrom the hill near the city. Looking across the Bay, Mt. Hope is seen, memorable as the home of King Pliillip. This city is fast becoming, if it is not already, the leading manufacturing city of X«w England. Steam power has taken the place- of water. Granite quarries in the vicinity are valuable, and the quarrying of building stone is an imi)ortant interest. The famous Dighton Rock is not far distant, with its mysterious inscripiious yet unsolved. EOUTE. From New York to Concord, N. H, All Rail Route from New York to the Mountains. Leave New York via Shore Line from the Grand Central Station Forty-Second street, at 8 o'clock p. m., via New York and New Haven Railroad, proceeding by express train, in Wagner's Sleeping Cars, via Bridgeport, New Haven, New London, Stonington and Providence, along the shore of Long Island Sound and Narragansett Bay, an exceedingly pleasant route, with no vexatious delays, and superior accommodations for comfort, through a net work of thriving towns and cities (of which the space of our hand-book does not permit description). The route is noticeable for its coolness and freedom from dust. Taking ample time for rest in the fine reception rooms, and for breakfast in the depot dining rooms at Providence, leave that point by the express train at 0.15 A. m., via Mansfield, Framing- ham, (connecting with train from New York via Springfield,) Lowell (uniting here with train from Boston and Salem, no change of cars,) or 6.05 a. m., via Providence and Worcester Railroad, via Worcester and Clinton; thence to Nashua, Manchester, and along the Merrimack Valley to Concord, N. H., from which point the route to the Lake and Mountains is described in the succeeding pages. Note.— Providence is the principal port of entry and one of the capital cities of Rliode Island, and is the second city in population and wealth in New England. The location is upon both sides of Providence river, which is crossed by wide and commodions bridges. Its first settlement in 1636, by Roger Williams— exiled from Mass. for religious heresies— is too familiar to need repetition. The rock on which he landed on the bank of Seconk river is still pointed out. The City Hotel is a first class house where every com- fort is pro\ided, L. H. Humphreys, proprietor. Brown University is one of the noted Colleges of the country, and the Educational and Charitable Institutions of the city are numerous, and liberally endowed. An extensive network of railroads terminate here, hav- ing a ceuti-al station in the heart of the city, and steamers run to Bristol, 22 ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO CONCORD, N. H. Newport, Fall River, Warwick, Rocky Point and various places on Narra- ganeett Bay. A sail down the bay, or at least to Rocky Point, should not be omitted. This point, owned by the American Steamboat Company, has a national fame as the place of all others in this vicinity for attractiveness to pleasure seekers. It is visited by thousands each year, and the combination of unequalled natural features, of wild and massive rocks, caves and passages, with facilities for furnishing all creature comforts and desirable amusements, make it the favorite point for escape from the heat and turmoil of the city. Rocky Point Hotel, under the management of L. H. Humphreys, Esq., and competent assistants, it is calculated will accommodate seven hundred persons, seat at once in its dining-room fifteen, hundred people, thus enabling the proprietor to provide dinners for any number of thousands. Connected with the Hotel is a farm of fifty acres under high cultivation, supplying the milk, vegetables and poultry for the table. The extensive stables, fiee menagerie, the educated bear, and ele- vated railway; the view ft-om the tower, the natural curiosities hereabout, with the wonders all along the bay, make the trip to Rocky Point something to be remembered. Newport is the most elegant and fashionable of New England watering places. A century ago it was a rival of New York in its foreign commerce. The tcfWn was virtually destroyed by the British in 1779 and two-thirds of the population deserted the place. Of late many elegant residences have been erected upon the elevations overlooking the sea. The town is rich in historical associations and localities and objects of rare interest. There is an inner and outer harbor forming one of the finest in the country, each surrounding point and headland fraught with historic interest. The older |)ortion of the city is crowded and ancient in appearance; the new town is built with liberal breadth of streets and display of architectural taste and elegance. The fleets of the world could ride at anchor in the deep and spa- cious harbor; the Forts, ancient and modem, the mysterious " Old Stone Mill," the c»Tef«lly prepared printing press on which Ben. Franklin worked in 1772 are important among the many sights not to be overlooked during your stay. J. - • . Narragansett Pier is another popular resort at the southwestern shore of the bay, celebrated for the extensive ocean and inland views from Tower Hill and the good hotel accommodations and facilities for fishing, rowing or sailing, affyrded at the Toicer Hill House. o o o KOUTE. From Ntw York to Concord^ N. R. All Rail Day Route from New York to the Mountains. Leave New York by express train via Springfie!.!, Worcester and Nashua, from the Grand Central Depot, Forty second street, at 8 A.M., by New York & New HaVen Railroad via New Haven & Hartford, and arriving at Springfield at 1 o'clock, in time for dinner at that excellent hotel the Massasoit House, tlience pro- ceeding via Worcester (receiving travel from connecting roads), Nashua, connecting with evening express from Boston for Ply- mouth, Manchester and along the Merrimac Valley to Concord, and, from that point, continue by the Boston, Concord «fe Montreal Railroad, reaching Plymouth, N. H., the same evening, stopping at the famous Peinigewasset House for the night and continu- ing the journey to the Mountains in the morning. There is also an evening train leaving New York at 8 p.m., and making con- nections same as Shore Line Route on preceding page. Note.— This route, taking the morning train, conveys the passenger through the interesting portion of Connecticut and Massachusetts, the fair capital city of New Haven, appropriately called the " Elm City," held in memory by the many graduates of famed and ancient Yale College, founded in 1700. From New Haven to the twin capital city of Hartford, calling up remembrances of the " Convention" and Charter Oak, and noted for the elaborate architecture of its elegant and permanent buildings, the wealth of its people and thecollossal and substantial growth of its Life and Fire Insurance Companies ; the manufactures are extensive, including Colt's im- mense pistol works, covering 125 acres, Sharpe's rifle factory and a wide variety of other interests. Central Park contains 46 acres and is an attrac- tive spot. The splendid railroad station will attract your attention and you pass on to Springfield through the finest portion of the Connecticut Valley. Henceforth Hartford is to be the sole capital of the State. Spkingfielp, located on the east bank of the Connecticut, is an important railroad centre, noted for the beauty of its location, and chiefly for the United States armory, the only considerable government manufactory of small arms in the country there located. The buildings of the armory VIA SPRINGriELD. 25 liave an elevated location In the easterly portion of the city, and are well worth a visit; here also are theextenftive car works of the Mason Manufae- turing Co,, an PImi H }^K,:- ^mi ^m mH^sm .•J ■ .,. ^' '■■■a 'f^i ml ■.V i^ w *'«*^:< ri NORTHERN PLEA8DBE TRAVEL. 43 • " The Broada." The outlet is through the waters of Great Bay and the swift Winnipesaukee river, which joius the Merrimack at Franklin. Its source of supply is a matter of speculation ; no large streams ♦ind their way into it and much of the surrounding water-shed is drained into other lakes and rivers having other outlets; many small brooks enter from the shores Ijut the outlet is an important and rapid stream, and the wide surface is exposed to evaporation ; yet, with such apparent lack of supply, its banks are always full^ forcing the conclusion that its volume is supplied largely by invisible springs of great number and force fed by the surrounding mountains. The Indian tribes who gave to tlie lake its musical name, found in Its waters and on its shores inexhaustible supplies for their rude subsistence. Their frail canoes were thick upon its waters long before the artist sketched its outlines ; their ahquedankenSf or " flsh-weirs," furnished supply of food without limit, and the fertile shores provided the growth of corn. Around its waters they congregated in large numbers, making it the centre from which they took their journeys for trade, or made their plunder- ing forays. Old inhabitants tell of a tree once standing near at hand, on which was carved the legends of the Osslpee tribe la quaint Indian characters. Fishing in the waters of the lake rarely fails to be amply rewarded. The trout in deep waters, and pickerel in shallow places among the reeds and lilies are the most sought. The cusk, perch, and toothsome but inelegant and unpopular " pout," are also easily taken in abundance. The loveliness which invests with "charms artistic and in- linlte" the cluster of baj^s which combine in the lake proper, is not easily described by words or transmitted by brush or pencil. The combination of summits, slopes and forests, green lines of shore winding in charming curves of symmetrical beauty, and sometimes, not often, the whole blending system of hills, forests, shores and islands reproduced in the still waters — a hanging shadow picture of wondrous beauty, beyond the reach of art to transcribe. .. ; . ' ^ ^^ - ^;'-- . . .v Moving over the lake in the steamer from Weirs to Centre Harbor, an ever-changing succession of pictures is presented. The Sandwich and Ossipee mountains to the right, with glimpses of old Chucorua far to the north, and slopes of forest, green hill- 44 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. • sides, and fertile pastures, with tlie nearer view of Red IIllI and the surrounding elevations fVonting your course, the twin peaks of Belknap or Gun.stock mountains behind you, and the wondrous beauty of island-germed surface and constantly changhig out- lines of the grander shores, all blending in a scene not to be for- gotten. In llnrst weather you have for a few moments a view of the crown of Mount Washington — the Mecca of the mountain tourists — dim, distant and golden. But while we have digressed and become oblivious of all else In the quiet loveliness of the lake, the larger part of the company have kept steadily onward by rail along the western shore of Northwest Cove, in sight of its cool, sparkling waters, through MEREDITH VILLAGE. Tliis fine village has become a place of resort for those seeking a quiet and attractive summer retreat. The Elm House, by G. M. Burleigh, is a good hotel, and the Prospect Uouse, by the same proprietor, one and a half miles from the village, and three miles from Centre Harbor, is one of the pleasantest country hotels in the vicinity. A fine forest lies in the Immediate vicinity to the rear of the house. The location is elevated, commanding an extensive view of the lake and the country surrounding. There are thirty large and airy rooms, pure breezes from the lake and hills, good stables connected, and everything new and comfortable. To those who appreciate quiet, rest, and rural sports, with reasonable charges, this will become a favorite resort Thence to Ashland Station, a thriving village, becom- ing important for the extensive production of paper, leather board and straw board, woollen goods and hosiery, reaching in time for early dinner the romantic and pleasant village of PLYMOUTH, fifty-one miles fi'om Concord and one hundred and twenty-four from Boston. This is the dining station for the morning trains from Boston, and the night station for the later trains, which con- tinue north from this point in the morning. You step from the train directly upon the threshold of the famed MOKTUIKN PLEASURE TUATEL. «§ PEMI0EWAJB8ET UUUHE, • managed by C. M. Morse, Eaq. Ascendlni; the broad staircaso, if it be in the season of plcjisure travel, you will be saluted with music from a line (quadrille band, and, enterin;^ one of tlie linest dining halls in New England, you llnd that plenty reigns at this liospitablti board, wliere, if discomfort linds entrance, it must be in the mental alienation or clironic physical disabiiity of the guest. {Scrupulous neatness, excellent cookery and quiet, lady-like attendance, the purest of water and the freshest of viands are the features of tnis hotel, which serve to convince the most skeptical that there is at least one ^'dining station" in the country where a meal can be eiyoyed, though such may be the exception and not the rule. This I'avorite house was erected in 180^3. The railroad i^assenger station is in the basement. The building has a Jroutage of 23U feet, is four stories in lieight, with a wide, pro jecting wing. There are 150 sleeping rooms, large, airy, well lurnished, lighted with gas and with ample bathing tacilities. iSuites ot rooms can be had for families. The parlor is spacious, with elegant furnishing and a line frontage to the south. The building is crowned with au observatory from wL nil you have a wide outlook over the surrounding country. JSo guest, however fastidious, can fail to appreciate the genuine comfort and sub- stantial plenty of this one of the largest and most complete hotels of the State. Good teams may be had at the first-class Uvery stable near at hand, with skilliul drivers familiar with sur- rounding scenery. Pleasant drives in the vicinity of Plymouth are numerous to points of interest within reasonable distance, viz.: around Smith's bridge, 6 miles, to Livermore Falls, 2 miles ; Plymouih Mountain, 10 miles ; Loon Pond, 5 miles ; Squam Lake, miles ; Centre Harbor, 12 miles. Prospect Hill or Mount Prospect, in Holderness, should be visited by all who tarry at this place. The distance is about four miles from the hotel, the ascent not ditlicult and the view from the summit (2,908 feet elevation) takes in the wide reaches of valley, lake, stream and mountain with the vili^'ges, larms and intervales that sleep in the fair valley of the Pemigewasset and NORTIIKR^i PLEASURE TRWRL. 47 |l)jikpr'.s River, while, far to the north the ^rrat ranges of the White and Fraiiconia MoiintainA thrust their ragged in^aks and Uwclling ina.ssi'8 upon the horl/on; the vU*w of Mount Lafayette {and Cannon Mountain are particularly grand from this Hununit, and Chucorua, GiuiNtock, lielknap Mountains, Monadnock and Koarsarge greet the vision as the eye sweeps the circuit from llhe eaNt to the west, and to the northwest Moosohlllock swells nobly into view, while Wukawan or(S(iuam) and Wlnnipesaukee Lakes lie in their quiet and silvery beauty in the unrivalled land- scape which includes some portion of nearly every county in the State. To make this trip you will necessarily be absent from tlie hotel only about four hours. The road is safe and Arm, atlording a con- tinual change of view as the ascent is made. Livermore Falls, on the Pemigewasset Ulver, about two miles northerly from the village will not fail to prove an object of interest. The view is from the bridge some ^xty feet above the fall ; there are indications of volcanic disturbances in the rocky bed, and no tourist will regret the visit; while, for a limited view, if you have not the time or inclination for a more extensive one, that from Walker's Hill or from bouth Mountain is pleasing In the extreme. If a day or two Is spent at Plymouth at this favorite hotel, it is quite likely on your return, the coming year, your stay will be one of weeks, for, of the thousands who gather annually at its hospitable board, few depart with other than feelings of pleasure. There is wholesome stimulus in the mountain air and purity in the waters, activity and bustle at the hotel and railway station, three trains each day, to and from Boston, Irom wiiich a step, almost, will take you to undisturbed quiet. Belore leaving Plymouth you will pay a visit to the small four- roofed building, now used as a wheelwright shop, in which Daniel Webster made his debut as a practising attorney. The old build* ing Is preserved in Its ancient condition and is looked upon with great interest by strangers and admirers of the great statesman. PEMIGEWASSET VALLEY ROUTE. The route from Plymouth to the Profile and Flume Houses and the Frauconia fiiils, 25 miles to the Flume House and 30 miles 48 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. to the Profile Houses, through the Pemigewasset valley is acknowl- edged to be oue of the finest rides iu the whole mountain district. The way leads up this lair valley through the towns of Camp- ton, Thornton, Woodstock, and Lincoln. The Campton inter- vales, through which the river winds and turns as if reluctantly leaving the peaceful retreat — the graceful sweeps of the great elms, the rich beauty of the views, which open with every mile of progress, have made this mountain town the favorite resort of artists seeking the picturesque in landscape, and perfection in shade and outline. On the way the road is somewhat rugged, but the fine views, the gradual swelling and towering up of the great hills as you approach their base, and the lessening of the streams as you near their source, the entrance into the immediate presence of the solemn and majestic mountains in the evening twilight, the wonders of Francouia Notch, and the comforts provided at the journey's end will all linger in memory long after the journey has become a thing of the past. Many will not be tempted even by this fine stage route to leave the line of rail but will continue by rail northward from Plymouth, following the valley of Baker's Kiver to the Connecti- cut. Before reaching Wentworth, Kattlesnake Mountain will be seen on the right and (Jarr Mountain and Mount Kinneo on the right after passing that point, and the train halts at WARREN. Moosilauk Mountain is visited from this point, being distant from the station some five miles to the base. The ascent is by a new turnpike recently opened to the summit, some four miles. There are hotel accommodations at the summit, giving substantial comfort to those remaining. The view from this isolated crest (4,636 foet altitude) high above all immediate surroundings is one of the grandest and most extensive in New England ; the eye falls directly upon the White and Franconia ranges, the larger portion of the State of Vermont with the Green Mountain range, the wide stretch of hills and imbedded lakes to the east, including nearly all of eastern and southern New Hampshire, the mountains around North'Conway NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 49 and glimpses of distant Maine, while, far away to the northwei . the view extends into the Canadas. The tourist will be amply rewarded for the trouble of making this ascent in looking upon the whole lake and mountain picture spread before him, the view unbioken by intervening summits. The Moosilauk Ilouae, D. G. Marsh, proprietor, is a commodious and well kept hotel with first class livery stables. From Warren the course of the railroad is northward, passing " Owl's Head" lying off to the right, and the villages of Haverhill and North Haverhill upon the left The elevated line of the road at this place overlooks the wide valley and the great bend or " Ox-bow" in the Connecticut, with the pleasant villages on either side of the river. Including the fine towns of Bradford and Newbury on the Vermont side, with Mount Pulaski in the back- ground. The express train in the pleasure season does not cross to Wells River, but sweeps to the right by the " cut-off," leaving the thriving and populous village of Woodsville, a railroad town of recent but vigorous growth, to the left. The mail train, following the express, stops at ^11 stations, and, at Wells River, fornis junction with the Passumpsic River Rail- road for Lakes Willoughby and Memphremagog. The Wells River and Montpelier Railroad, when completed, will take passengers Irom this point to Montpelier, Mounts Mansfield and Camel's Hump, Burlington, Lake Champlain, Lake George, Saratoga Springs, St. Albans and Ogdensburg. Until the completion of this rout^, tourists from this point go southward to White River Junction, uniting with the Vermont Central line at that point. NORTHWARD TO LITTETON. '■■-'■ .* . . -• - - ..' The line of road from this pomt, the White Mountain Division, passes along the yalley of the Wild Ammonusuc River, which, from its sources on the slopes of the great mountains, abounds in rapids and falls, and is the most variable and wild of the New England streams, descending five thousand feet from its source to its union with the Connecticut Passing through Bath, Lisbon (the gold mines of this town have not proved of inexhaustible richness, but the village is a 4 50 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. thriving and pleasant station), and Nortli Lisbon, you reaca tlie important town of LITTLETON. This point is reached by the morning express train from Boston, at 3.30 P.M. This place is 113 miles from Concord, and 187 from Boston, and is one of the most important of the mountain railway stations, nearest to the Profile House (distant 11 miles). Rough and manufactured lumber, agricultural implements, starch and woolen goods are here made, with many other productions. There is a bank of discount and savings bank, good hotel and boarding accommodations, a live, enterprising people, quiet and seclusion for those who choose it, with near railroad facilities. An easy day's ride will carry one to any of the points of interest in the mountains and return. Extensive views of the mountains can be had from the elevations in the immediate vicinity. Stages leave for the Franco nia Hills immediately on arrival of the trains, and, if you withstand the temptation to tarry here for a time, or for the night, you can proceed directly on your way to the Profile House. Visitors who wisely choose to stay for a time at Littleton, will find superior boarding accommodations at the ***stx~,ta \tsnnt OAK HILL HOUSE, finely located on an elevation. It is a favorite resort for tourists, commanding as it does extensive views of the White Mountains. NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 51 The grounds, five acres, are fitted up with a view of fiimisiiing all tlie out-door exercise and amusements desired by patrons. The house is supplied with the purest of running water from a never falling spriag. Secluded walks and retreats abound within a short distance of the house. A good billiard and bowling saloon is also connected v/ith the premises. Five minutes walk from railroad station. The tables are supplied with all the luxuries of the season, and are not excelled. Charles C. Knapp & Co., pro- prietors. At the Union Hotels near the railroad station, travelers can be faitiifully dred for ^nd liberally served with little of parade or pretension. This house is one of the old hotels of the section, where you will be sure of faithful attendance and substantial plenty. Teams also furnished when desired. During your stay at this place, a visit should be made to the photographic rooms of the Kilbum Brothers, These artists have the finest collection of stereoscopic views of mountain scenery and picturesque localities to be found in New England. They are not excelled as artists, or equalled in their specialty of view-taking in the open air, being themselves enthusiastic moun- taineers. Few visitors leave the mountains without a collection of their fine views of notable localities and scenes, as souvenirs of their journey. FROM LITTLETON TO FRANCONIA the stage route is a winding way over hills and through valleys, and the journey, in fine weather, is one to be remem- bered with pleasure. Passing through the village of Franconia (reputed to be the coldest spot in the United States in winter,) you seem, in some stages of the journey, to have found a region of complete desolation ; but, in the sombre stillness of the fading day the shadows ascend slowly to the mountain summits, whose tops are gilded by the setting sun, and you sometimes have a succession of sunsets as you move toward the journey's end. The bare and grim outlines of the range stand out against the sky as you near a hospitable welcome at the 52 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. PROFILE HOUSE, situated in near vicinity of the many natural wonders of this mountain-range and shadowed pass, of which, and of the hou^s itselt, you will be more fully informed in succeeding pages. NORTHWARD FROM LITTLETON. If your destination is the Crawford House (at White Mountain Notch), Jkthlehem, the Twin Mountain House, Fabyan Place, White Mountain House or Mount Washington Summit, you will continue on from Littleton by the "Wing Road," or mountain branch (diverging from the main line above Littleton) to the Twin Mountain House, the present terminus of this branch. BETHLEHEM, on this branch, is a favorite resort during the summer months, and from its location and high altitude must become the favorite residence of those seeking rest, quiet and renewal of health. It is the highest table-land (1,500 feet elevation) accessible or desirable as a residence in the Eastern States ; and the pure air, wide prospect, picturesque scenes and surroundings make your stay a pleasant one. The "street" '> a long line of scattered KOBTIIERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 53 houses at some distance from the railway station, and from this grand plateau and favorable distance, the outlook upon the mountains is grand and impressive. With little travel and fatigue the Franconia Hills may be seen to advantage. Many invalids are sent to this place by advice of physicians, and in its pure and dry atmosphere, find that relief which those who seek mild but enervating climates fail to find. The Sinclair House is a hotel of good repute, large, commodious ^d complete in its provision for the comfort of patrons, where all can And the best attendance and fullest facilities for enjoying their stay in this mountain town. The Twin Mountain House, hereafter fully described, in Carroll township near the Twin Mountains, is the present terminus of the Wing Road to the mountains. From this point stages convey you without delay to the Faby»,a, White Mountain or Crawford Houses, or to Amnionusuc Station at Marshfleld, where cars of the Mount Washington Railway are taken for the summit. Piissengers by the morning express from Boston, Fall River, Providence, New London and intermediate points may complete their journey to the highest summit in a single day, without inconvenience, by the line described. But many will end the day's journey in sumptuous ease beneath the roof of this extensive mountain home and continue their trip more at leisure. , Those who do not leave for the mountains at Littleton, or by the Wing Road, pass directly on to WHITEFILD. This is an important station, with its extensive steam lumber mills, established by those genuine Yankee lumbermen, the Brown Brothers and their associates. They have all the appliances for extensive manufacture, including a forest railway of several miles in length, with ample rolling stock, extending to their great lumber tracts around Pondicherry. These mills are well worth a visit, being among the most complete in the state, and should the genial "Doctor," whose brains and cash make him tlie all important " Co." of the firm, be present, you will be sure of a welcome in which the suavity and energy, which combine in equal proportions in this character, are both apparent ; success 54 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. • to him and his enterprising associates In their extensive opera- tions. They also have important mills three miles from Went- worth Station, on the railroad below. Whenever permanent hotel accommodations are provided here It must become a favorite point for approach to the mountains, being distant from the Twin Mountain House but 8 miles, and from the Crawford House, 17 miles. Kimball Hill, a mile and a half from the village is a favorite point for extensive views, and here the curious have found what appears to be moccasin tracks In the solid granite. This is becoming a favorite place of resoit for summer boarders, and, from its heavy lumber trade, is one of the most important Ireight stations on the line. The Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad will intersect the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad at this point, bringing Increase of traivel frcn! *iieW localities, and adding to the importance of the station, LANCASTER, distant from Concord 135 miles, from Boston 208 miles — the most important town of Coos County, and located among the finest of scenery, is the destination of mauy of our number. The intervales of the Connecticut, at this point, are not surpassed by any upon its whole course, while rare views are had of the distant Franconia Mountains, the great White Mountain range, the Percy Peaks and Pilot Range, and the Lunenburg Hills in Vermont. Here the tourist in high health, who has the secret learned " To mix his blood with sunshine, and to take The winds into his pulses," can have unequalled facility for sporting' and the enjoyment of savage vigor. It is also a place of resort for invalids, especially for those troubled with asthmatic and lung difficulties and " hay fever" ; for such, relief is said to come with certainty in the genial air of the village ; Cc;rtainly, few lovelier spots could be chosen in which to recuperate wasted energies and correct the injurious effects of exposure to enervating influences of crowded cities or injurious climate. The winter views from this point are spoken of with admiration by those whose artistic tastes are admitted to be above contradiction. KOKTUKRN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 55 Lancaster was chartered in 1763. **A11 pine trees witliin said township fit for masting our Royal Navy to be carefully preserved for that use, and none to be cut or felled without special license." The grant was to David Page and others, covering 23,040 acres. The original settlers were from Petersham and Rutland, Mass., and were a hardy and self-reliant race. There were no highways for several years after settlement, and the nearest mills were at Charlestown and Plymouth. Th»iir frugal fare is thus described by a facile writer: "Emmons Stock well kept a huge mortar, which held about two bushels ; into this they put their corn, beans and rye ; then they pounded it with a great wooden pestle, as none but them could .pound. With this they mixed potatoes, well baked and peeled, and the vegetables their tsistes might select ; the whole was baked together into magnificent Thump. Seasoned with good appetites, it was found a delicious dish by the early inhabitants of our glorious old town. "The tables of these hardy pioneers had other dainties. The rivers and streams were full of fish, and the forest of moose and game ; and our ancestors of both sexes could use the rifle and the rod with astonishing skill. « « « * "It was many years before wheelwrights or wheels were found in Lancaster. The early settlers transported their merchandise upon two long poles, fastened by a cross-piece. One end answered for shafts, to which the horse was attached, the other dragged upon the ground." Harrassed by Indians, dispirited by failures, and cheered by no bright future, the settlement was at one time to be abandoned ; but one dauntless spirit clung to the fair valley "for belter or for worse," and, by force of heroic example, saved the colony, and permanently founded this noble town, set in the loveliest of valleys, and circled by distant peaks and mountains. The tourist will travel far to find a lovelier village, surrounded with more of the varied and romantic in natural scenery, or of neatness and advantage in the accommodations for pleasant resi- dence. The waters are pure in their fresh escape from the bosom of great hills; and the summer winds are cooled by contact with the bald summits of the mountains. 56 NOBTHERN PLEA8UBE TRAVEL. This Is the shire town of the highland county of Coos, and here centres much of tlie professional, mechanical, and agricultural business of northern New Hampshire. Church-going people of every denomination can here select their favorite form of wor- ship, including an Episcopal Parish recently organized. There is an Academy, established a half century since, a Grade school, and the various branches of trade are carried on in stores which would be attractive beside many in the large cities. The visitor at this place will find in the elegant and commodious LANCASTER HOUSE, B. H. Corning, Manager, as fine a hotel as the mountain region can boast. Fish, game and fruits, fresh from the surrounding region, commodious rooms, and liberal accommodations in every department give assurance of personal comfort. Drives in the surrounding country and to noted points in the mountains from this point will reveal unsurpassed diversity and charm in land- scape, while the railroad connections are such as to afford the greatest facility to travelers and business men. The sidewalks and crossings of the village streets are superior to those of many larger towns, adding greatly to the comfort and pleasure of citi- zens and visitors. Trains connect with the Grand Trunk Railway daily for the NOBTIIKRN PLEASURE TBAVEL. 57 Cunadas, and the eastern approaches to the mountains at Gorham and the Glen, and by the Montreal road for the White and Fran- conia Mountains, the Mount Washington Uailway, Lake Winnl- pesauivee, Boston, tlie lower cities and New Yorlv. Stajje leaves Lancaster on arrival of the train from Boss ton about 5 o'clock P. M. for the ^ WAUMBKK HOUSE, JEFFERSON HILLS, distant seven miles, and located at the foot of Starr King Moun- tain. Speaking of the view from these hills, Mr. King says: " They may, without exaggeration, be called the ultima ihule of grandeur, in an artistic pilgrimage among the New Hampshire mountains." Here the mountains, marshalled in a vast arc of circling summits, present a wide sweep of landscape of a magni- tude rarely met even in this land of bold and startling prospects. This favorite hotel, kept by Merrill & Plaisted, is supplied with the freshest of country products from the neighboring pastures and streams, and the accommodations are such as must please those who give the agreeable landlords their patronage, while the view from its piazzas is a changing picture of majestic outline, bathed in sunlight and swept by moving shadows and changing hues. In the immediate vicinity of this hotel the pleasant moun- tain boarding house, the SUNNYSIDE HOUSE, NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 59 by Cliarlos L. Plalstod, Is a new, neat and cheerful home for thwe who seek for quiet and comfort among the uneijualled pros- pects and attractions of this beautiAiI mountain town. Destroyed by fire the past winter, it has risen phcrnix-lilve from tlie a-shes with a promptness indicating the needful energy in the proprietor. A foot-path leads to tlie summit of Starr King Mountain, and one of the finest summit views in the whole mountain range. A good livery stalile accommodates guests. The outlook Is upon the White, Franconia, Green, Cherry and Starr King mountains. NORTHUMBERLAND JUNCTION, uniting here with the Grand Trunk Railway. A thriving settle- ment has sprung up at this point since It became important as a railroad town. The trains connect at this point with all trains over Grand Trunk to and from Lancaster. Without delay passengers may proceed in fine parlor cars, if desired, to the great Canadian cities over the line of the Grand Trunk Railway, fast becoming one of the safest lines of travel in the country. The great Improvements In progress on this line by change of grade, renewal of rolling stock, and the substitution of steel rails, will greatly add to the comfort of patrons of this line and accom- modate the increasing travel to Canadian cities and places of attraction. Many tourists leave the cars of this line at North Stratford and take stage from thence to Colkbrook, where at the Parson's House, Remick, proprietor, conveyance and all needful help will be furnished for visiting that northern moun- tain pass, DIXVILLE NOTCH, the most northern of the great natural wonders that crowd the White Mountain region. It Is a dreary, forbidding and desolate pass, between vast decaying ledges and pillars ot rock, threading the narrow roadway, which is maintained with some difficulty at the expense of the State. There Is no hotel at the Notch, but it is fast becoming a place of resort from Colebrook, 60 KORTIIERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. And many pass on tlirouj^h the Notch to camp llf<', hy the three lakes at tho head watrrs of the Connecticut, and trouti'j? by the wild wat*Ts of the Ma^alloway river. Within and about the Notch are many objects of Interent The Silver Cjwcade is a wild wat(;rfall at the northern outlet of the Notch. Ladders descend the rocky bed leading to the best point for a full view, and seats are arranged for the convenience of vhltors. The Flume Is a waterway well worth Inspection, the bare walla standing 8<|uarely uprlj?ht as though hewn by the hand of an aillsan. The Pulpit Is a bold buttress of stone, more like the elaborate pulpit of " ye olden times" than the modern ^tyle. Here also is a veritable " Old Man of the Mountain," of diminutive size when compared with the grand " Profile" of the Franconla range, but i)erfect In Its resemblance to the facial outline. These lind other points are Indicated by signboards liberally scattered along the way by the owner of the lands. The ascent to Table Hock (800 feet perpendicular height), the hi^liest pinnacle, may now be easily made by rude steps cut to facilitate climbing. The view from this dizzy height is one to l)e sought and remembered. If you return to Northumberland, or, before leaving there for tlie north, you may proceed southward some twenty-five miles by Grand Trunk Railway to • GORHAM, • in the Androscoggin* Valley, at the mouth of Peabody River, distant from the eastern base of Mount Washington, only eight miles, and a favorite point from which to make the ascent by carnage or on horseback, the roads leading to the summit from this point being in excellent condition and teams are always obtainable. Before its destruction by fire the Alpine House was a favorite hotel, and travel from the east and from Portland naturally made this one of the favorite points of approach. The scenery to be viewed from the village is bold and peculiar. Mount Moriah (4,80() feet high); Mount Carter (5,00() feet), the lesser " Imp " and the Pilot range of hills, with Mount Hayes, are in the immediate vicinity. Mount Madison of the White Moun- tain range is visible, and by taking a stroll of no great distance, the whole range may be brought in view. Stages run from this NOBTIIERN rLEA8UB£ TBAVEL. 61 point to the Glen House, where the aacent of Mount Wn^hington conitnencuM, tind coiiveyuuce muy be had here tor ull the niuuu- taiii h()Uhe» uiui pohitM ut hitereHt in tlie mouuluintt; wliiie visitors at GurliHUi or tlic Glen ilouHe, or ft'oin any ]Miint on tlie line of tlie Grand Trunk iCuilway, can proceed to Nortiiunjl)erland, and, from tliat point, reach by rail any station on tlie lioaton, Concord and Montreal liailroad and its '' W ing" or niountalii branch. Lanca.>U.'r being i })oint attracting many from thitt direction by its varied charms. The " Wing" road diverges to reach the Crawford Notch and Mount Washington llailway, and Littleton in the point of approach to the Franconia Kange. Wells Kiver is the point of union with the Passumpsic Uiver and Connecticut Ulver lines. Kind reader we have now brought you along the western view of the hills, past the bright waters of the lakes, along uie northern outline of the mountains, and have swept around u|K>n tlieir eastern limits and up to the most northern pass with oidy such digressions as seemed necessary to a complete description of the route and outlying scenery with facilities lor reaching interesting points. We will now take a general view of the mountain region and tlien proceed to nioi-e minute notice of particulai* localities. THE WHITE MOUNTAIN RANGE. A modern writer has, in poetic and expressive language, described the mountains as **outbursts of the globe's passion" — "witnesses of a pent up fury" — "upspringing wedges of rock, f inging the garment of soil away, tilting and separating the strata through whicli they break, and standing bare for the scrutiny of science." Terrible must have been tlie throes of nature which upheaved the masses of the granite hills — known in common language as the White Mountains — given as a general name for the whole mountain region of northern New Hampshire, but properly belonging to the eastern and more extensive range, of which Mount Washington (6,285 feet in height) is the crowuing glory. They are called White ftom the tact that, during the larger pait of the year tlie snow remains upon the towering summits, yielding only to the intense heat of mid-summer, and are the 62 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. highest peaks east of the Mississippi, excepting the high suni« mits of tlie Black Mountains in North Carollnr^ The "White Mountain Notch" Is the frowning pass peculiar to this range, also the pjiss known as Plnkham Notch, and, away to the north, Dixville Notch. The range covers some forty miles square of country, and lies In the counties of Coos and Grafton. The principal summits are Mount Webster, (4,000 feet eleva- tion); Mount Jackson, (4,000 feet); Mount Clinton, (4,200 feet); Mount Pleasant, (4,800 feet); Mount Franklin, (4,900 feet); Mount Monroe, (5,300 feet); Mount Jefferson, (5,710 feet); Mount Adams, (5,800 feet) ; and Mount Washington, (6,285 leet.) On the top of Mount Jefferson is a pond of considerable extent, with no visible outlet, but with waters clear as crystal and cold as ice. The ascent of this summit is seldom made so rugged Is the way. Within the central cluster of the highest peaks of this range, In near proximity, are the sources of the Ammonusuc, the Saco, the Peabody, Ellis and Moose Rivers ; the waters of one reaching Long Island Sound through the winding Connecticut, the others, by western slopes, reach the Atlantic on the uastern coast Along these rivers, and on the swift mountain streams which feed them, are the cascades and fallSj which relieve the rugged- ness of the slopes and gorges as laughter lightens the hum- drum realities of every day business. In the swales around the mountains are the great forests whence the lumbermen supply the demand of the older towns. There is a story of a pine in the old primeval forests towards Lancaster, 264 feet In height, long since put to use. The Notch, only twenty-two feet wide at Its entrance, next to Mount Washington, and the view from its summit Is the great natural feature of tlie range. It Is three miles In length, the towering cliffs reaching In some places 2,000 feet In height. The Crawford House is near its northern entrance, and is the point from which to visit Its wonders. The headwaters of the Saco flow through the pass, which Is the thoroughfare for travel from Littleton, Bethlehem, and localities on the Connecticut and Am- monusuc to Conway and the Saco Valley, or the reverse ; though, since the completion of the NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. 63 MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY much of the pleasure travel goes over Mount Washington, as- cending by rail for three miles from the lower station to the Mount Washington House, recently erected on the summit. This road, rising in some portions 2,000 feet to the mile, and an average rise of one foot in four, offers a mode of ascent which has become the great sensation of the mountain trip, and done away with the fatigue attending the journey on horseback. Descending on the east side to the Glen House, by the carriage roadway, the excursionist has a delightful and novel experience of mountain staging, with little of fatigue or exhausting effort. This journey of a day is one not to be forgotten. Well might Whittier sing : " With smoking axle hot with speed, with steeds of fire and st«am, Wide-waked to-day, leaves yesterday behind him like a dream." THE FRANCONIA EANGE is the group of hills of a lesser elevation than the WTiite Moun- tains proper, and wanting, perhaps, in the sublime and overpow- ering grand uer that marks their rugged ascents and terrific and desolate walls, but abounding in beautiful and enchanting objects of interest. Lafayette is the crowning peak, being 5,585 feet above sea level. The ascent is made from the Flume House. Franconia Notch is a pass with close and precipitous walls, of about five miles in extent, between Mount Lafayette and Mount Cannon. The valley is about half a mile in width, and is a huge receptacle of the curious, the wild, and the beautiful in mountain scenery. ^ THE GREAT STONE PORTRAIT. " Full human profile, nose and chin distinct, Mouth muttering rhythms of silence up the sky, And fed at evening with the blood of suns." A wonderful copy of the human features, coUossal in propor- tions, yet faithful and clear in its lines, is the great natural attrac- tion sought by strangers. The length of the face has been ascer- tained to be not less than eighty feet. It looks from the southern 64 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. face of Cannon or Trofile Mountain " awful but benignant," en- chaining the interest of every beholder. Echo Lake, Tue liAsiN, The Pool, The Flume, with its fcuspended boulder and cascades, and the ascent of Mount La- layette are leatures ol the Franconia Kange fully described in tucceeding pages, and seen by excursions tiom the Prolile and Flume Houses. The Frohle House, at the northern entrance to the Notch, and in near vicinity of Eagle (Jlitl", Echo Lake and the Frohle, is the great resort of travelers and tourists, while the smaller but ex- cellently kept and located I'iume House, at the southern entrance and near the Flume, the Fool and other attractions, is a place of much resort. The facility with which these houses may be reached from Littleton or from Plymouth by stage route up the valley, and the varied beauty and attractiveness of the range brings a yearly increasing tide of Pilgrims to enjoy the wealth of beauiy here to be found. HISTOlllCAL AND DESCKIPTIVE. In sober matter of fact New England, the wild region of the mountains is peculiarly bare of that histoiical interest and legendary lore which has given to every crag and ravine of Scot- land and Switzerland a name and fame in romance and story ; the names, even, of the grandest peaks and gorges, excepting the lew musical ones of Indian origin, lack the merest suggestion of romantic beauty. One Haiby J? ield appears^'to have been the first white man who looked from the highest summit upon the wild and rugged country below. His account, hke that of most early discoverers, was garnished with account of shining stones and riches in prospect. Vines and Gorges, magistrates of Sir Fernando Gorges, went thither in the fail of the same year (1642), ascending the Saco in canoes; they appear to have ascended one of the highest summits and made report not remarkable tor accuracy. An eaily chronicler has described the country to the north of the principal summit as *' daunting terrible, being full of rocky hills and cloathed with iutiuite thick woods," and as a proof of his theory that the mountains were hollow, cites the " resounding NORTHERN PLEASURE TRATEL. 65 of the rain" upon the rocky summits. The Great White Moun- tain Notch was discovered in 1791 by two hunters — Nash and Sawyer. In 1816, a pany of scientiflc gentlemen made extensive botanical collections, and determined altitudes. In 1820, the whole range was explored by a party from Lancaster, altitudes of the highest summits were established and the mountains received the names by which they have since been known. With the early settlement of this rugged and forbidding region the name of the Crawfords is inseparably connected, as opening the first ways of ascent to the mountain summits and preserving a thorough knowledge of the hills. The tragic story of the Willey family is told in succeeding pages, and is, perhaps so lamiliar as to need no repetition. The desolate experiences and hardships of the isolated pioneers whose names even are forgotten, who first established their rude homes in this rugged and forbid- ding land, die out with the grey heads of the venerable actors, but perseverence so marked and sufferings so unselfish should have been preserved by the genius of some American Scott, or live in the songs of a Whittier, through the passing years. In climbing the highest summits, the tourist passes first through the dense woods around their bases, lessening in height and thinning to the hardier varieties as the path enters the region of dwarfed shrubs and clinging mosses, and, finally, emerges upon the bare and desolate rocks of the higher summits bearing no mark of the action of waves or of drift, clothed only with lichens, mosses, and such plants as are peculiar to Polar regions. Many of the lesser mountains are beautifully wooded over their entire summits. ' L i • The mountains in winter present to the appreciative observer tlie rarest beauty. Until within the last few years few travelers have had the hardihood to inspect its scenery when clothed in the snowy mantle which veils the summits for so many months. For the last three winters parties have resided through the entire season upon the summit of Mount Washington, in the interest of science, and have made valuable observations regarding the strength of the winds, the temperature and phenomena of these high altitudes, and witnessed the sublime and novel scenes pre- sented from this elevation through the inclement months. 66 VORXnSBN PLEASURE TRAVIL. Traces of the Indians once inhabiting the mountain region are frequently found near the rivers and the ponds — about Conway, Fryeburg and Ossipee their implements, mounds and encamp- ments are seen, and their musical tongue is preserved in the names of Chucorua, the Pemigewasset, Ammonusuc, Winnipe- saukee, Androscoggin and other streams. In the cold waters of the mountain streams is the home of the shy and beautiful trout, and the delicate art of coaxing these shy dwellers from their emerald pools and shaded nooks, is enthusi- astically practiced by those who, each summer, make their home for a time among the hills. The mineral wealth of the mountain region is not great. The gold excitement at Lisbon was of short duration. Plumbago and iron are found in superior quality in the valley of the Pemigewasset ; iron near Franconia, and iron and tin on the eastern slope of the White Mountain Range near jT,ckson. THE FRANCONIA NOTCH. • . In curious rocky shapes and forms, and the wild sublimity with which crags and forests, lakes and waterfalls combine in startling pictures, this mountain-shadowed pass of some five mUes in length is unrivalled in the whole mountain tour. With less of towering majesty, vastness of outline and desolate grandeur than the White Mountain Notch, there is more of grace in tlie sweeping curves and frowning scenery of this shadowed valley, more of variety in form and combination, and of permanent attractiveness iu its general characteristics and contrasts. Visitors to this mountain- walled museum of nature will find in the fine location, the excel- lent arrangements and spacious design of the Profile House, promise ot that generous entertainment and faithful attendance which is fulfilled in all the details of management. Situated on a level plateau of a few acres, nearly two thousand feet above sea level, and enclosed by the great hills, it is near to " The Great Stone Face" on Cannon Mountain, "Eagle Clifi;" *' Profile Lake" and "Mount Lafayette," and but five miles from "The Flume," ** The Pool " and the Flume House, and seven miles to " Harvard Falls." For several years the Profile House has had a crowd of patrons. NOBTHERN PLEASrRE TRAVEL. 67 The accommodations are for four hundred guests, and are on the most liberal and extensive scale. The ample grounds, command- ing, wide and beautiful views, are crowded during the pleasure season with a happy company gathered from all parts of the land, who find here that cleanliness and attention, with th'tt ample and substantial profusion oi viands, which mountain air and exercise make more than elsewhere, a necessity. The parlor and dining hall are spacious and elegant (about 100 by 50 feet area), and are lighted with gas. The telegraph runs to this point, and the man of business may receive his mails wiih regularity, and send his commands along the wires, while he gathers strength in the mountain air, and marvels among the mysteries of the hills. Stages, twice each day^ leave for Plymouth, via the Pemige- wasset valley, and for Littleton, connecting with express trains on the Boston, Concord and Montreal Railroad ; also stages each day for the Fabyau Place, Twin Mountain House, Crawford House and Mount Washington Railway. Perhaps the first prominent object to attract the stranger's eye will be the precipitous crag fronting the hotel, and seen to advan- tage from its grounds, towering some fifteen hundred feet above the road, known as EAGLE CLIFF, A pair of mountain eagles once had their eyry high up in the rocky caverns near the summit, hence the name. The cliff" is seen to best advantage from Profile Lake, especially through the fogs and mists that hang about it at times, to rise and melt in the bm'uing sunlight, or when gilded by the lights of morning or fading tints of evening. A short ascent up the side of Cannon Mountain gives a point of view from which ail the boldness of the cliff' will be seen standing out in impressive majesty. To the rear of the hotel, reached by footpath through the woods, a small brook plunges in a succession of falls down the rugged ledges of the hillside, giving you, if you are fortunate to see it after its volume has been swelled by rains, a most plea^ng and attractive sight which will prove a fitting introduction to 68 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. greater wonders yet unseen. The pleasing picture spread before you of tlie quiet lake below, the mountains, valleys and foreste, which you here overlook, will amply repay you for the climbing. Beneath " Eagle Clill," northward from the hotel a short dis- tance from the Franconia road, locked within a circle of hills and embosomed in green forest is the wonderful and widely famed little sheet of water known as ECHO LAKE. Floating upon its silvery surface in the boat provided for visitors, you may wake resounding and multiplying echoes from the circling mountains. Your halloo comes back from many hills as though a mocking circle of sentinels caught up the sound ia succession, lessening in volume and force until it takes its flight far away in the fastnessess of the ravines. The blast of a bugle or horn comes back in softened repetition of musical echoes and re-echoes dying out in waves of sound among distant summits. Do not omit to visit this weird spot at the quiet morning or still evening Lour, when all nature conspires to enhance its loveliness and heighten its charms, and the changes of color are no less wonderful than the reverberations of sound. Horns, bugles, a cannon and other instruments for waking echoes, pleasing and terrific, are here to be had for the use of visitors. CANNON MOUNTAIN, is so called from a rock or combination of rocks near the summit resembling a huge cannon seeming to command the passage of the Notch from its high position. It is also called Profile Mountain from the renowned "Profile" on its southern wall. The summit is about 2,000 feet above the road and 3,500 feet above sea level, and its steep sides covered with a thick growth of deciduous trees, stand facing the slopes of Mount Lafayette and form the western side of the Notch. The ascent of this mountain by footpath is one of the pleasures of a visit to Franconia, though, possibly there may be more pleasure in the outlook th^i the climbing. The top is a surface of bald rock, not reached without vigorous NOKTHEKN PLEASUBE TRAVEL, 69 exerclje, requiring some two hours of climbing. But, the height gained, you look upon that towering cluster of peaks — the White Mountains proper — down the broad valley of the Pemigewasset, and upon all the varied contrasts of mountain and meadow, lake and village, river and brooklet that combine in the wide landscape seen from the high outlook of this summit. The ascent of "Bald Mountain" in another less tiresome trip, made by carriages if you wish, nearly to the summit, but easily made by pedestrians. The view is wide in extent, looking down into the Notch and its wondere, northward upon the distant broken line of hills, and "Lafayette" swells high above you to the eastward, while the sweeping shadows or trailing vapora roll along the rugged slopes, and through the broad valleys, in a moving scene of beauty which will fade only with the failure of memory. THE PROFILE. This bold combination of rocky masses, forming that wonder- ful imitation of the outlines of the human face, perhaps, more than any other natural feature of the mountains, excites the curiosity of visitors. It is a bold combination of rocks forming the granite portrait only when viewed from the proper location, change the point of view for any considerable distance and the features become a shapeless mass of rocks and crags. The rocks which form this wonderful outline are not in perpendic- ular line, but, appearing so, are combined perfectly in a sharp, angular and unmistakable imitation of the human face. The proper point of view is only about a quarter of a mile from the Profile House on the road leading down the Notch. The granite face stands out from the southern crest of Cannon Mountain, In majestic repose, fifteen hundred feet above the surface of Profile Lake, unmoved by the mad fury of tempests and storais or the golden touch of morning sunlight, looking out from its rocky throne insensible to passion, pleasure or pain, with the sharp and stony lines of the immobile face set in unchangable grandeur, solemn and awe-inspiring with its ages of exposure to the storms and tempests, the ivdmiration of 70 ' NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVEL. thousands who look upon it with bated breath. Other shapes have been conjured out of the rocky outlines of the cliff, but they draw so strongly on the imagination beside the reality of the profile that the attempt excites but little of interest. PROFILE LAKE. At the base of Cannon Mountain, directly beneath the over* hanging portrait of the "Old Man," is a beautiful sheet of water a quarter of a mile long by one-eighth of a mile wide, sleep- ing in the green forests which enclose it and hang in shadow in its pure depths. The quiet beauty of the scene will excite the dmiration of the coldest nature. Fanciful names have been bestowed upon it such as the **01d Man's Mirror" and **01d Man's Washbowl," but however named, or if nameless, it is one of the gems in the gallery of mountain pictures seen in Franconia. It is the home of that lover of cool mountain streams and lakes, the beautiful trout, for which you must angle ^v^ith skill for no careless hand secures this wary beauty. THE ASCENT OF MOUNT LAFAYETTE. The climbing of this, the highest peak of the Franconia range, (height 5,100 feet), is considered second only in interest to the ascent of Mount Washington. A half day's absence from the hotel is necessary for the trip, and horses with the neces- sary conveniences for the ascent are kept at the base, with competent guides for the accommodation of tourists. The path leaves the highway about two and a half miles south of the Profile House. Passing through the thick woods, around the base and the lesser gi'owth of the middle region, you emerge upon the bare rock near the summit, affording an unobstructed outlook to the northward where all the varied phases of the landscape combine in a magnificent picture. A shelter has been provided upon the summit for the protec- tion of visitors, 'and the prospect is one of the widest which invites the eye in the whole mountain region ; looking away over the great intervening reach of hills and valleys to distant Katahdin on the very eastern outpost of the army of hills ; upon NORTHERN PLBASUBE TRAVEL. 71 the great cluster of mountain monarclis of which Wasliington is the peerless centre ; upon the northern peaks away beyond Lancaster; across the Connecticut Valley upon the hills of Vermont and the swelling crests of the Green Mountains, the valley of the Connecticut and the villages on either side, the wild ** Ammonusuc" and the villages of Littleton and Bethle- hem. The southern view is down the fair valley of the Pemigewasset, while great Moosilauk swells nobly into view and Monadnock and Kearsarge bound the vision. walker's falls. These falls are a half mile from the roadway down the Notch. The path diverges from the main way, some three miles below the Profile House, following a small brook, which here crosses the road from the west, a succession of picturescjue waterfalls are reached, leaping over the rocky shelves or sliding over the mountain slopes which form the bed of the little torrent broken into foam by impeding masses of rock. A half day's climbing along the course of this brook will afford you a succession of plepsant surprises as you follow its worn channel in the rock, its gliding course over the water-worn granite, its successive leaps over the ledges, mingling its waters with those of the fair Pemigewasset, which soon pours its limpid flood over the granite rim of the BABiN, some five miles south of the Profile House. This granite reservoir is a worn and curious cavity in the solid rocks, close by the roadway ; evidently made by the whirling of rocks in the eddying currents ; the waters sweep the circle several times in swift rotation before making their exit at the opposite side. The circular walls are very smooth and regular, the water falling within it in a pretty cascade over the brim and making its exit by a channel worn into a fancied resemblance to the human leg and foot, hence the outlet is sometimes known as the " Old Man's Leg." The diameter of the Basin is about forty feet, the depth to 73 NOETIIERK PLEASURE TRAVEL. the lK)ttom twenty-eigbt feet, with a usual depth of twelve feet of water. A small stream, among the hills to the left of the Basin, flows over the granite ledges on the mountain slope in pictur- esque and musical descent forming a succession of the most lovely cascades which may be followed up with pleasure to the upper fall where the stream plunges in a leap of some twenty- five feet. THE FLUME HOUSE. This house is a small and well kept hotel very pleasantly located, facing Mount Liberty in the vicinity of the Flume, the Basin, the Pool, and other natural objects of interest, affording from its very doors a view of the three great peaks of this range, Lafayette, Liberty and Pleasant, their harsh outlines somewhat softened by the distance, and of thb wide valley of the Peraigewasset, in all its picturesque and quiet beauty. This house is kept by the proprietors of the Profile House, and visitors will find it a pleasant spot in which to speud their season of leisure, be it short or protracted. THE CASCADES are below the Flume and drop in gi'adual descent of several hundred feet in musical silver lines and gliding sheets of pure emerald watei-s over the wide, smooth, granite inclining plane, fretted more and more, as you ascend to the Flume by the help' of rustic bridges, with many charming basins and pools of transparent water. You reach these wonders from the road by a pleasant path among the great rocks. THE FLUME. This central wonder of this part of the valley is a narrow, rocky ravine or worn channel, with perpendicular walls on either side of 50 to 60 feet in height and some 20 feet apart. Within these regular and moss-covered rocks, evidently rent asunder by some throe of niture, a small stieam threads its way, in lovely confusion and perplexing disturbance along the NORTUEUM PLEASURE TRAVEL, 73 broken bod. The visitor can ascend through this shadowed and wonderful glen which extends some 80() feet between walls apparently the work of Titans in the olden time; a rude path- way of planks and ne».dful artificial helps protecting him from all disagreeable contJict with the murmuring stream. At one point the grand fissure contracts to a span of some twelve feet and holds suspended, apparently with slightest security, *' The Great Stone Wedge" — an enormous egg-shaped boulder of many tons weight, an object of active speculation and lively curiosity, causing an involuntary tremor as you pass beneath. You reach these wonders from the road by a fern- scented path among the great rocks. THE POOL. After viewing the wonders of the Flume you take the path leading through the forest ; leaving the road near the hotel and following it for half a mile you reach the Pool, a vast natural well, regular in torm and outline, excavated or worn in the solid granite bed. A small stream flows over the brim from the north, and through a narrow fissure opi)osite, the amber waters find exit. * • The span of the rim of this gloomy natural reservoir ?s about 150 feet, the depth is about 190 feet, with 40 feet of water in its sullen depths. The beauty of the cascades, the Basin and the Flume does not pertain to the Pool, but as a curiosity not to be omitted in the tour of mountain wonders, it will amply repay your visit. A clumsy boat sails upon the gloomy and circumscribed circuit of its waters. There is a foot path from this point to the Flume but it is somewhat rough and hardly desirable for those not schooled in moun- tain travel. HARVARD FALLS. Taking directions at the farm house some two miles below the Flume Hotel, you shortly reach a brook leaping down the hillside, west of the roadway, in cascades which are among the very finest of the valley. 74 NORTHERN PLEASURE TRAVKL. The little Htroam at ono point t.ikos a proat leap of ciglity feet ov(>r the ledjje to bound off in another of ni'aily e^jual fall, fl:iHhiiij( a lino of Hilver sheen throuj^h the arching; fringe of shriibU'ry that Herves to hci;;liten its beauty. Down a rupged, broken descent of three fourths of a mile tin; waters leaj) to meet the (juiot river below. Lookinj; upwanls along the bed of the stream as you ascend, the sight is ono of rare beauty; each staj^e of elevation developes new attractions in the fall itself and the views of tho valley below, 'ca-ight in broken vistas between tho forest trees; while from the summit of tho ri(l