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Les diegrammes suivants illustrent la mAthoda. 1 T 6 \.*' ^ 4 • •^F *? ■0 PI » ■ s . " ' ' ' .. » ■ ■ I - ' ' - ^^^^^^ ■ ■• . '*■ , ■ -.-.•-■ t VOYAGE TO HUDSON'S BAY, DURING THE SUMMER OF 1812. 1 CONTAIMIMO A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF THE ICEBERGs' AMD OT«« PHENOMENA WHICH PBB8KNT THEM8SLVE8 IV THOSE HECIONA. A DEgftRIPTIOfH Of THE E8QUIMEAUX ANBT NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS, '? Their Manners, Customs, Dress, Language, S^c. 8^c, Ike. By THOMAS M'KBEVOR, M.D. OF THB DUBI,IN I.YING-IN HOSPITAL. .^11 ■0 »M«wU m uovi wiaxnig in lb* iky, A^lcr iy«,t.lM,hlrt onnKKMUlM pU'd, **J«^ -d white. MMBOiH*. of cl^, "•Jcctlai, taie, ud korrid, o'er Um mii». PRINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS Km, Co. BRIDB-COTOT, BRIDOS-STRJI^. ^ I8iy. / ♦T* ?0^098 I.*' \ \ % PREFACE. A FEW months retaxalwn from professional studies during the summer ^ M. y.ar 1812, and a very liberal oj^er of the Earl L Sklk|k^ ■induced me to become the medical attendant on his Lordship's cotonv then about to departforUvDson'8 Bay. "rasmp s colony. The notes which I took during that very interesting voyage, have lain by me ever since; nor is it probable they would Lr \!ve ZerTd from obscurity, but for the unprecedented interest which the affairs of that part of the northern world have of late excited, and for the present convenient i^nd popular form of publication. The literary defects which pervade this Narrative require. lam aware some apology; but this, I sJiould hope, will be afforded by the nnremit- tmg anxieties to which I am exposed, inmy present situation of Assistant to the extensive Lying-in Hospital of this city. . Dublin Lying-in HonpHal, Aug. 36, 1819. -I X, " '. 890409 V VOYAGE it* • •A. TO HUDSOISrs BAY. he summer f)'s colony, , have lain ? emerged affairs of 'he present am aware, e tinremit' fJissislant QN Wednesday, June the'J>4tli, about four o'clock in tiie afternoon, we got under weigh, having on board the Earl of bBLKiOK, Mr. EvisuARD of Sligo, and a f^w other gentlemen who iuid dined with us. At first it was our intehtion not to pro- ceed to sea that night, ^butiherely to get clear of Sllgo Bay, which cannot at all times be easily accortipHslied. About six o'clock, however, the captain came down to inform Lord Selkirk, that it was his wish to proceed to sea immediately; and Lord Selkirk and company took their leave. -Their "lessening boat" had scar<*ely disappeared, when, lean- ing over the quarter-deck, I was insensibly led to the con- templation of the grand and sublime scenery with which I was, for the first time in my life, surrounded. On one side I beheld the vast and widely-extended body of waters, over which the moon was just beginning to thirow a diflFused and silvery light ; on the other appeared my native land, like a dusky streak stretched along the^erge of the horizon. Its thin and misty form had soiriewhat hv*h''''?-n"".°^'"'/"'*V''P°"''' ^yhich had been precipitated by the chill cool air of evening. ' », The solemnity and stillness of this calm re<^se of nature was the head and sides of the vessel, and occasionallv by the%low helmsraJII" """'^^ *»>« /captain giving his commands to the From this train of reflections I was, however, soon disturbed by he voice of the steward, who came upon dik to announce Vhat supper was on the table. I immediately went down to the Mun'tirKl^"'*M'"'r? ^''- ^'^'*'"' f'--'" the Is7e of Mull; Mr. Keveny, Mr. Johnson, and the rest of the cabin- CnTw^co^'n?' rr''^^ of «\ery elegant and wdUdresed o'EVsIT-T^k'''';"'"^ until twejve o'clock: "that hour o nights black arch the key-stonc,' when we all agreed to re- wuC much"J,-,T"^ *"'"^'' '' ""•" '■"• '" ^ «hort dme, without much splicitation, we were visiied by that sweet re During the first week, the occurrences of our voyage were 4 . / y APKeevor's Voyage to Hudson's Bay. Thursday July »he 2d. Early in the mornine, we observed ad ene^y j but, on nearer approach, he disiivered her to be the KingGeorge one* of the Hudson's Bay company's shipi com! manded by Captain Turner: a short ^Ime K, we Sserv^d ZwThr'"'"'"'^ '*•""'' ^° ^^ the Edd/st'one tteT-' 5^ n^n/ -1 Tl n'i"'^'"^' commanded by Captain Ramsay. full sail. About ten we spoke the King Geor« ; and shortiv after, the Eddystone, lat. as observed, ^7° «' Nf^ we cont3 in company for a couple of hours. *Oar vLel however"S lle^Vr'wW.^"!;*^^'*^'^^^''''*^' ^^^' •" » »hort timer c"? them completely behind. .n2n"*^^'i •'"•^ '''^ '^'''- ,^^"^''" ^^'y *'"'^'* «nd hazy, ac companied w.th constant drizzling rain. Wind continues fiiii*. The air feels very wld, owing, as the captain suspect,, to our being near ice. About half past one, the man at the helm laid he saw land. Owing to the very unfavourable state of the feather, »^■ o»" (i'Tcnland, is situatfil in Int. 59« :>^ -'» f intefesf- ind conti- in average e, observed might be to be the lips, com- ohserved tlie pro- Hamsay. pon us in d, shortly continued ^er, being time, left hazy, ac- nues fail'. ?, to our he helm te of the luspense. the. case. f he was btful; if case we In the mFly of fine lied him About lick and Air still jat the n.of the J, gave : in rta- l about • in Int. 59* / M^Keevor't Voyage to Hudson'^ Bay T three knots ; took id sail. About one we l4y to. About half- past one, P. M., we saw ic6 for the first tifee; k appeared* in the form of large detachc;d masses. Several pieces struck the vessel, and with so much violence *fas to awaken almost every person on board. Four o'clock: the ice csbntinues to come tn immense large flakes; the pieces are larger, but not quite so numerous. Owmg to the very unfavourabte state of the weather we could get no opportunity for making an observation; the captain, however, suspects that we are about tfie ^entrance to Hudson's Straits. / ,^> . Tuesday, July the 14th. Weather still ci>« .n^ ♦!.— . i of dark black iviit M«» '"":~ , ^''"» ne'e V^a there, patches dMokti, Ir^r^Ii ■ wngle shrub enlivened this barren qwmal aspect. The hoarse murmur ng of the waves which evpr and anon renewed their assaults on tl.e\ug« maTse, Vdark^^^^^^^ rock that opposed them, gave it, I though^ a .till more des^ondS in rhn^lS^^gU^^^^^^^^^ """'^ ''^ "^^ '•"'^' - •^••^ «ot ^ After dinner, this 'day, Mr. Johnson came down to the ensue7on hLrinrth-"' "'°""!'"'° .*^^ '*^*-* ^ soleihn pausf In a short tim. *h " """^ "'"""•"« P**"^ °^ intelligence. the shSrnf?! ""^^"•J'^fi ^a" awAl in the extreme^ the shouting of the mefl.^the rumbling of the cordaire the tremendous mountain of ice, on which we eve y .foment' ex ^^r'tremosff"-/°.P'^"-'» ^'*"*"'^»»«'» 'o'reLe tM captain did all he could to get the ship about, but without effect, owing to her having missed stays. We were normoJe than ten yards from it, when fortunately a light breeze sprTnc! clear of this frightful mass PlatA III «tFr„A, ^-»«n|'iciciy presentation of it. ' "^°'''' ' ^^'^ *=°''""* ^*=- The whole of this day was truly unpleasant ; the weather rneThat^w?/"?.*!"^^.? indeed^ ,he%og wis at'tirs so dense that we could hardly see ten yards from the shin in ST?" wi.'"/' r "^^' ^rq-4 J-t in cpLt'iit lields of ice without being at all aware of it. Friday night . -#<- 1 \ a a t « a d tl c «i «l rCf patches tiiis barren I sad, and which ever ■ dark -grey despondent e again got m to the re, bearing inn pause telligence. ; and here extrenne^ rdage, the ment ex- !nder this ed.. The t without not more Re spring- oaipletely orrect re- : weather times so ship, in tact with «y night ( M floating 1803, and iflScully in the rame (•», of the r; one of aiewell, in ti'8 Straits, ' ; lliv ship AS tbe ice Company's ■k Fori to at of the e by th«t proceeded J ^ M'Ktevor't Foynghk) Hudson't Bay. 7 jl continued to blow ver^ fresh j constantly tacking betw^ett land and ice. Ship pt streral very severe knocks ; so severe, indeed, that a considerable quantity of copper has been torn from her bottom. Saturday, July the 18tb. Weather continues squally, with deose fog. Still tacking about between land and ice. Un- certain of our situation, the captain not being able to make •ny tJBservation. Also uncertain of. our course, in coitse. quince of the extraordinary variation of the compass.* Tlie ship became so Jeaky this day, iu consequence of the injuries re- ceived from the ice, that we were obliged to keep the pumps constantly at work. r r f Sunday,,^uly the 1 9th. Weather much improved ; occasional sun-shine, ^bout twelve, the captain was , enabled to make an observation ; found that we were in latitude 61° W We w?re now quite satisBed that the fiind in view was Resolution Island. - Pour o'clock. Haze and mist completely dispersed : steady sun-shine. Wind much more moderate ; patches of fine blue sky here and there present then^elves. It is inconceivable with what joy we beheld the first gleam of sun-shine : its cheer- ing beams appeared to diffuse cheerfulness and gpod-humour amongst us all. About six, we were completely surrounded with ice; the wmd, however, became so moderate, that we ran no risk by venturing in amongst it. Several icebergs in view. Just as we had done dinner this day, the steward came into the cabin with word that' the King George and Ed- dystone, the two vessels already mentioned, were in sight. Nothing could powiibly have afibrded us greater gratification than this intelligence. We ||tei&mediately weiit upon deck when, to our very great suf ffse, we saw the George about thirty yards from us. The Eddystone, owing to the ice, could not get quite so near. In a short time tbe Geoige tot so close that we were able to get on board by merely croming a * The exact caaie of this exlraordiurv Tarialian 1/ I hoii... ..» ..it r»^VKr„ J^ij * ''**''' wr aitaat^ between Uie needle and the point of it» attoaction. Ellis assertSjUhat ^Sei the i:oiiipi..e. were broBghtimoa wJm 5^\^!{ "Jcorerwl tftir proper action «id direction; iTwhen brSS th.Tl^r*^ ?!!'""•* PPj"«f with much ^ater aceoracy. I w wSSk that we found tbe same effect produced by bringiiic thTSxe. doWn^th- ittBcd n the aw wfaieb snmrandad Oe aaedle. and in thk »« nn»Mi*Ii .^^ «b.nic.l obstruction to its iitotion.-Tbe "SJ^t Ku J,«. ^^ ^'^^ * "- i. / J- \ .I. : '-y M'ICeevor's Voyage to fiudioi^'t Bay. I atSi «iogle ^e of icd. Here..,we spent « verv Di^asint >.-«:„ thrSctSf ^''*'"' other refreshLots' TdYce w*a;^^:;:^;5^ I J- «!^^t P!B"" r* •'^*'"°»'y summoned upon^deck wd LLh ^M^"u"l'.'* *.* »he haughty mir with ^ichth'/rtw boned athleUc highlander .trMted up and down his dI-Wp^' pndant streaming ii. the .fr, whi£ the pZSh ent f«t£ leys.^ After some pieparatory arraogetaents, the whole oirtv When the daoce was ended, our musician - after some •„*,« ductorysereama and flburishe/, commeaced%K fo^^^S ZZ «ODg. For my part, I could discover nothW in this fa Jmlo^ rwr ;f/*d^'^«»i-"Mse, but a^nSsJS cS: Son! /• *l, ""? d^wppant sounds. On the faci, ofxwr Sir ri ^"f^^'A^^*^^""' •* "PP^^red to operate JiJce magi^' sSSklM3°1h"«'^ ^***'*^'' '^'^^ torelaz/theeye begaS to sparkle, *nd the yvhole visagii to assume a garand animated apnearanee, mixid, I thought, with some littlf Vortion ofTofty o^ndmg pr.de, which ahewed itself particularirby T^m^hi twdVe'^VI^i' played about the angli; of the Uth. Zu twejre o dock we sat down to k reiy elegant supper, and soon wToter'^'S^ ' "'^^ r' the7wf.?situatioTli ^th7c were placed. We resolved on strewipg with flowers « the ' ^••^•"PW'^oMBMght rain and rnrtle, ' *«™<"«na»MBd the stoma whistle: ^bout two o'i^ockWe parted:. the moda had just emenrcd i^ t!^!!^*^ ♦^J«"?«nd'"g wenery, giving it an appear- , ^w», to.bor«i?r tlu! words of a fatourite though unknown author. ^,frV^'^ ^^ ^l"."*"* "Iver gauze had l^een thrown otet It. TV caaopy of V«wb had a clear anh sparklinir amMMDoe, while the horizon was on aU sides thickly Vtudded tU •"''dbIS cl«»*eriBg peaks appeared to jienetrate «J^ aecampauiwl : for hwi and bW, ^^lo tinir icy coocb, thcii« to thfiir netts • u Weietlmik. '^~'" But to attempt deacribkig the grandeur of a moonlight-scen* oo the toe would be vain indeed. No language (at least that ^ fcouW select) would aflM adequate means of description, ihe whatprov<5* bqtpooi^iu the attempt; and all the pos- :ii: ■■■/ <^ M'Keevot*s Voyage ta HUdson't Bay. 9 ■ibk; combination of words are few indeed to (hose of -nature undersll her variety of forms and colours. In a short time »ve regaifit.'] /«iti.St!i?fwy?. T*°*"'*^''"8' "Iv'''* Slooni of nirflit, has sometimes been ' StifS ♦! 5*"' c<"»eM"'""ces. Occurring far froifiJand, and !» unexpected ^}^f}l^^'\^^^^S^\'«'»i\A be extreme, wltc they not providcntiaMy rendered vmble by their uatnral effulgence, which enables tlie n.arinerto di^tiiiuUh them \SnZtfoJ v«'«^'"'"a'"*''o1"V''* "'«•'••' "' *''"'"« the JrevalTuce^f Ui« \^»emQSttog.— See Sco^y^tu Polar Ice. VOYAGES and ThA^RLS, No. 2, Vol If. B . ■*> /i. ,.>J^ m 1 /* 10 M'Keewr's Voyage to Hudson's Bay. a Grecian temp e, supported by rpund massive columns of an azwre hue. which at a distance looked like the purest moun- tarn granite. These stupendous masses, or icebergs, as thev nnV" 1?" '^!''*^ '°'."1 °/ .^'''"' '•'" *^"=«''"» °^ «ge«» ^nd receive , annually additional height by the falling of snows and rain, which instantly congeal, and in this way more than repair the loss occasioned by the inflyence of the melting S!un. The spray of the ocean, which dashes against these mountains, freezes into an infinite variety of forms, and gives to the spectator Ideal towers, streets, churches, steeples, and, in fact, every shape winch the most romantic imagination could picture to itself. When, at the close of evening, the almost level beams of the descending sun are directed on the numerous apertures, or cham- bers, as we mi^ht suppose them, of these imaginary palaces, abbeys, &c. the effect is inconceivably grand : in one place you see them touched with d rich golden' colour j in another, with alight purple tintj and in others, again with a rich crimson suffusion. Soipe of these islands, as I have already mentioned, remain stationary for ages in this frozen climate; while the smaller masses, or /loattng numntains, as they are called, move slowly and majestically along, chilling the ambient atmftsphere for miles around, until, being drifted into southern latitudes, they are gradually dissolved in the boundless element. It sometimes Ijappens, that two of these masses, though distinct* above water are intimately united beneath its surface. I recollect the captain mentioning to me, that owing to this circumstance, the Hudson's Bay Company, a few years ago, lost one of their finest vessels. , Ihe inaster not supposing but that they were quite distinct beneath, ran the vessel in between them ; the ship immediately foundered, and every person on board would have perished, but that fortunately another of the company's ships was at hand to take them up. By a field qf ice is to be understood one uninterrupted sheet of considerable extent. They vary from one to many leagues in length. Mr. Scoresby states, that upon one which he saw he conceived a coach might be driven a hundred miles without meeting with any obstruction.. This I have not the smallest I .1.- f^ ' 1- '*" *^?'"*"" ^"**^'' """'gator Heemskerk, in their voyage for ILf« i .?^*''^ " " "»"•'•"** pawage, after wintering at Nova Zembia, lo»t their >bi|^ n. th„ way. and then >.ailed many Inindred ieagnes in an open boat, throSi iM-"!,' ''"^'"^ *'.'"*=.''' •''*y *^^* •»"«" "«n't«d by the white bears, and .oraetZI" at Ko"ffi^ i„^'' 7' f '\? ''•''7 " ^''^ ^-y °'""'« *'-• The" cale umDs of an rest moun- gS; as they and receive i and rain, repair the The spray ns^ . freezes e spectator every shape e tu itself, ims of the ^ or ch4m< ry palaces, place you ither, with :h crimson :d, remain he smaller ove slowly sphere for tudes, they sometimes love water, he captain Hudson's ;st vessels. » e distinct iraediately ished. but at hand to ited sliee^ ly leagues h he saw ;s without ! smallest voyage for la, lott their at, througli i sometimes They came ch vessel, — M'Kcevor's Voyage to Hudson's Bay. H ^°if''i *°L^ ^'*^ ^^^^' ^"'^eed, I have frequently gone aloft ray- self for the purpose of ascertaining their extent, but have often been unable as far as the eye could reach, to observe even a sin- gle hssure in them. On their surface, which is generally raised three or four feet above the level of the water, I have seen the seals bask and frolic in hundreds. The coalition of two of these great fields produce a most singular phenomenon^ the larger forces the lesser out of the water, and adds it to its surface : and in this way a second and a third are often superadded, until the Whole forms an aggregate of a tremendous height. The collision Orthe greater fields is often attended wkh a noise, that for a time d/jlrives you of the power of hearing fiithing else, resembling -^v^Jiy much the sound of distant thunder j the meeting of the smaller pieces produces a harsh grinding kind of noise, not unlike, as Mr. Scorcsby accurately remarks, that of complicated machi- nery. *^ During the summer months these masses become very brit- tle, and frequently give way with a tremendous report, in this way laying the foundation for other islands similar to them- selves. At this time considerable risk is incurred, either by going ashore on them, as we may term it, or by allowing the vessel to approach too near their perpendicular front. It has not unfre- quently happened that ships have been sunk by their detached portions falling in on the deck. That these apprehensions are not imaginary, the following circumstance will, I think, afford a satisfactory proof. One morning I went out with a party l)f the men in the jolly-boat, for the purpose of towing away the vessel from one of these ice-bergs, in order to guard against the accident to which I have just alluded. In this insttince the island was so high, that Its summit stretched in an arched form for a consider- able distance over the top-mast of the vessel. Before getting to that part of the island to which the ice-anchor was attached. It was necessary to pass a projecting point, where the island, asit w^re,^«*fo«J out to a* considerable distance. The man, who had the command of the boat, unwilling to lose time, in- stead of sailing round this projecting portion, ordered the boat to be rowed directly under it. We had scarcely got half-way, when a violent report,* like that of a piece of artillery, an- Icc-bergs, on being struck with an Rxe for the pnrpose of placing a moorine anchor, have been known to rend asunder, and precipitate thecal eless searaeS into the watery chasm i whilst occasionally, the masses areliorled ipart and falL -»ii contrary dirmiohs, with a prodigious ci ash, burying boats auTmen in one 12 M*Keevbr'if Voyage to Hudson's Bay. \ nounced to us that a part of the island was about to give wa«. Every one appeared in the greatest alarm. The boIts3 ordered the boat to be pushed off instantly. Before, holeTe? we could get completely free of the ice, the whole side of the mountam was detaehed wUh a noise like \hunde and insltly expected to rise again ; in a few seconds, however, our Uttle ial- ly-boat rose triumphant on the ridge of the foaming wave Uv- ing clearedout the fragments of ice which had gof inJothe bZ we made towards the ship, where we were welcomed as if T^ ol? f" ^T ' '' ^''^- ^i''' *-'»^«"g'"e our clothTs and taking some refreshment, we soon forgot this nearly fatal occurrei^be The violent noise which those dinuptions, ol icequaklsZtC are very appropriately termed, product, is not, as Tr. li'sslie^ei^ marks, to be altogether attributed to the crash of the falling frag- EL ^" ;^'' •"^'''^"' climates," observes this ingenious p^- S ' M "*'"'"/ *x °r*^ "'" '" ^"»^ "^°«t '"tense frost, which probably enveloped the globules of air. separated from he water .n the act of congelation, and, invadingShem on aU sides, reduces them to a state of high condensation. When the mild weather begins, therefore, to prevail, the body of ce penetrated by the ivarmth, becomes soft and friable ;' and the minute, but numerously interpersed globules of imprisoned air exerting together their concentrated elasticity, produce the mos[ J^lent explosive dinuptions."~S.e Lr^suu S, Heat J Mot With regard to the manner in which those mountains and l.n^ h.^n A A' "' •°''"'*^*'' } ^"^ "°^ P'°P°^<= '^'"'^^ into aSy lengthened discussion J and this I conceive the moFc unneces- sary, as Mr. Scoresby's late ingenious and very abr pabradon contains almost every thing that can be said"^ on this obscure! iZL'lT '"f"^'"g!Mbject. I propose condensing the few The greater part of the difficnlties and principal source of obscuririr ,n the numerous discussions which have taken place on this subject, appear to me to turn on this single point; Can ice be formed on the surface of sea-water ?-For my part I can coS- . ccive no reason whatever why it should not ^ ^ ' t -f give wajj, boatswain ?, however,, side of the id instant^ ^h we nev^r r Uttle jal- »ve. liav- to the boat, d as if we and taking occurrence. ces, as tbey Lesslie Jre- iniqg frag- ^niotis phi- ense frost, rated from tem on all n. When iy of ice, _;'and the isoned air, e the most Hid Moi3^ tains and into any : unneces- abh'catiun 1 obscure, g the few a form as source of I place on ; Can ice can con- « liousanck of Iy, whereby easily ima- M^Keevor[$ Voyage to HucUon'aBay. ^ 13 , The circumstances which appear to me to fai^Qur its produc- J tion, I shall arrange under the following heads : \ First, Intense cold. \ Second, A state of rest. \ \ Third, The falling of crystallized snow and hai I -stones. \ Fourth,/ The separation of ice from the bottom ot the ocean. ■ \ An^ first, with regard to intense cold. Any one at all ac- quainted with these rigorous climes must allow, that there is here an abundance of this the most essential of all requisites. Du- ring the winter season, which usually continues for nine months, the spirit thermometer is commonly found to stand at 50. Quickv silver freezes into a solid mass; consequently, the cold wliich th0 prevails must exceed 71 degreei, or 89 below the com- mencement of Fahrenheit's scale; a degree of natural cold whi«h, I believe, is rarely exceeded. Wine, and even ardent spir«s,* become converted into a spongy mass of ice; even the " living forests" do not escape, the very sap of the trees being frozen ; and which, owing to the internal expansion which takes place m consequence, occasionally burst with tremendous noise. Now It is proved by experiments, that when the thermometer falls to 27°, other circumstances being favourable, that a pellicle of ice will l)e formed on the surface of sea-water. How then, 1 would ask, is the excess of cold between 27 and 50 exerting Itself ? Are we to suppose that it floats passively along the chilled surface of the ocean without exerting any frigorific influence? 1 his would be in direct opposition to one of the most generally established laws of caloric, that of diffusing itself among bodies until an equilibrium of temperature is established. But it may be said, that no ice can be formed until the whole mass of fluid IS reduced to the temperature of .S5",t or that point at which sea- \yater begins to expand. If, however, this intense cold con- tinues a sufficient length of time to affect the entire body of fluid, this objection must, 1 conceive, fall to the ground. Now, any one who considers for a moment the duration of the tedious and dreary Arctic winter, must, 1 should think, allow that there is more than sufficient time for the whole mass to become cooled down considerably below this temperature. This effect will bf course be much more readily produced in those seas that have J,,, .. * By thiilmfan, of coarMjConiinongpirili. n..mhHr ^^JJ" SAM.re.iiminK tliatya-water %»ill begin to expand tbe sane ;^..^-4 •I i I 14 /M,'Ki^evor*s^oyageU>Ihdim'sBay. not free acccS? to the main body of the ocean, as also where the depth IS not very great. Jt may also be said, that owinTto £ cur- rents and heaving ^ides by which they are agitated fhe d ffereTt port.onJ_of water ate so effectually intermixed as, in .LeA.^e^ o equalize the tenWrature. It must be observed Jiow"ver that h^ equilibrium of temperattire by no means takes^Vcewh such "&IL"'^^T^^'''^* t''^^''''' Inproo?ofthis maj allv, /,^f T*=''-J'°^n f«"» that the temperature of the sea ?Sa;ei^uUu'"-"r"' ^'^^^^ '^' thermometer has been substit^flSlr^ f instrument m navigation, being frequently substituted for the more tedious process of sounding. It may and r«.°^'T^' ***** ^"•''' "= y'^y ^^^ conductor of clloTc^ cur?entfm?JK.'« I '-^^^'^ counteract the inrfuence which the currents might otherwise produce. ^ h Jfj /"°°\,''''r"'"*.*''°'=^ whichlbafe to notice, as being rto»1Z/ * ^° i"" "'^'^^^ ^'^"^ '•«"°te regions must have yo cedatonce the remarkable stillness of thf Northern seas! hJw,,r •' ^S'^poth and as unruffled as the most retired S :., J"^' f ''!.°"'? '"PP°'^' *<» *•>« enormous pressure which the ice already formed exerts on its surface.* Mr. Scoresby tells us, that the ice, by it? weight, can keep down he most violent surges, and that its resistance is so effectual, that ships 8helterepearance of a wall or rampart of ice, three or four feet in thickness, along fhe greatest part of the upper edge of the weir. The ice composing this barrier, wh^re it adheres to the stone, is of a solid consistency, but the upptr part consists of a multitude of thin laminee, or layers, festiw ujjon each other in a confused manner, and at different angle^of inclination, their interstices being ocpiipied by innu- merabli^ spicule diverging and crossing each other in all direc- tJous, The whole mass resembles in its texture the white and porous ie«, which may be seen at the edge of a pond, or small rill, where the water has subsided during a frost." — See Journal df Sdenee and jirts, 2Vi>. X. The explanation of this curious phenomena is certainly very difficult, and would appear to argue somewhat against the long-received opinion of the diminished specific gravity of water, after being cooled down beyond the temperature of 39. As there has been as yet no satisfactory theory offered on the subject, I shall beg leave to state, in very few words, in what manner I conceive this deposition to take place. While reading Dr. Garnet's paper, I was very forcibly struck with the peculiar circumstances in which lie stales this icy incrusta- V , I ',v v- Riding of iich is of from 85<» to £. to suddenly petuosity, snow, the isted with lort time n a toler- : at the V, contri- es to the with the urrent is forced to continue Ration of i^-moundj the op- on. But my tliou- the bar- through er level, t of ice, t of the barrier, but the r layers, different by in nu- ll direc- hite and ar small Journal inly very inst the avity of 5 of 39. ered on ords, in Wliile ck with nerusta- ~ M'Keevor's Voyage toHudson's Bay. . 17 An to take place ; thus he tells us. tiiat it is always formed /in greatest abundance in proportion to the magnitude and number of the stones composing the bed of the river, com- bined with the velocity of the current ; as also that it abounds most in rough and rapid places, and not at air where mud or day IS deposited Now It has occurred to me that, perhaps, the formation of ice in these situations may be owing to the same causes that gave rise to the d«|»osition of dew and hoar- trost on grass, twigs, and other Obrous substances ; namely, by their possessing a greater radiating power. The rouffh"^end surfaces of the stones I conceive to opera^ in the same way as the vegetable fibres do in a clear, unclotfded atmosphere, by allowing the « affluent" wave to come in closer proximity with he surface, and thus fecilitate the discharge of caloric from the bed of the river. That none appears where mud and e&h are deposited, 1 should suppose to be owing to their present- ing a. smooth surface, in consequence of the water consta"htly npplingover itj thus the stratum of incumbent fluid is pre- vented coming into as close contact fts if it presented a rugged surface. Just in the same way as if we were to take a highly- polished vessel of silver and fill It with hot water j it will take, suppose twenty minutes, to cool a certain number of degrees [ but if its sui-fece be scratched with sand-paper, it will cool the same number of degrees, in nearly half the time. That a great part of the eflfect is owing, in this case, to the number of pro- jecting points. IS proved by the circumstance of %impiy scratch- ing It in auHopposite direction, when the effect is considerably ilSi/iSf """.^'f'* °^ P'-rcUng points being thus dimi- nished. It will now take a much longer time to cool down the same number of degi-ees. It is on the same principle that a thin covenng of muslin, instead of preventing the escape of dfscw'^. V J^°»^? Wo«e, does actually favouV ita t^lT^A' ^**^^• ,T- '^'^^ '"*y *c' »° t^'o ways : first, by its greater d^ee of Co d ; secondly, perhaps, being less iipkg- nated with the particles of foreigj, bod?S, in consequencWBf FrfoTf/^"'' M ^ ^ro^^'* ^^°"« «f »»»« °«r'h, it ma? he thus more favourably circumstanced for the escape and transmis- sion of those calorific radiations. """uniis The raj,* act on the same principle as a clear unclouded sky does in producing the deposition of the aqueous meteors SLflH^h.? '?• .The only way. however, of ascertainTng »^^,M ^1^^ ^^ '^'"St what eflFect screens of different kind! would protjuce, when interposed between the surface of the water and the strong current of the N.W. wind. ThUexolA- ^ 5*1 m f ' >'.i _ .. "o "-»•*•"* wi MIC ii. w. wina. inis exoia- Ration iipjwars to me^^e supiferbf a ft^^^ served, that water will congeal, though tie ambient^air shoaU VoYAGBS and Travjbls, No. 2, VoLJl, c ]S M'Keevor's Voyage to Hudson's Bay. be several degrees above the freezing point. The effect is hr> doubt, considerably hastened bv thef Jid produced by ev.pJraT .on from the surface. This, Lwever. exerts a vJrySed the"«"«hin nf*."""' l'- ^' '"'^"^ «' * ^«^t^"' tem^peraZre; the" shell of 6ir' which comes in contact with it. before making any ascensional effort, will discharge a quaptity of its surplus heat, and thus preserve the tempefature of the fluid withm certain limits. Something similar to this may be observed while passing through the JTelds of a cool evening. We often ^^hTnnof''l^' boar-frost, deposited on twigs, gr^s, and other sdbstances, though the air, even a few inches above their sur- face, is several degrees above temperature. With regard to the dses which this singul r phenomenon may serve :--5erhap8, , in consequence of the fieat extricated during the proceslof con- gelation. It n;a^hus prevent the temperature of the numerous organized bodies, contained in those situations, from beine reduced to a degree which would be incompatible with their healthy functions. It wiU ^hus render those substances the same services as the deposition of dew and hoar-frost does to the tender plants, the daloric, given out during these processes, preserving them from the eool airjtvhich is so prevalent durine our£,n.mer evenings. - «» & It will in all probability be objected to the suggestions I have here thrown out, that they are in direct opposUion to the observauon of Mr. Lesslie, who asserts, that when thfe Can- nister Reflector and Differential Thermometer were plunged into water, that no radiation can be observed ; and hence this ingenious philosopher concludes, that no radiation will take place, except when the radiating body is surrounded with an elastic 'n«Uum. I may remark, however, that the experiments which he adduces in support of this opinion, are by m means decisive of the pomt. Substances cool so rapidly, when ^Jlunged into water, that there is scarcely time for the differen- tial thermometer to be affected j and, besides, the heat could scarcely accumulate in the foral-ball, in such quantity as to occasioj a sensible rise. Morever, I can see no reason what- ever whyradi.aht caloric should not pass through water as well as air. They are both fluids; they receive and transmit slow communicating caloric in a precisely similar way, namely, by a constant recession or migration of heated particles : thev agree, in many of their chemical relations, such as exterior solvent power, &c. ; they also agree in possessing elasticity ; though water is by no means susceptible of the same degree of condensation as aii^ still, however, that it possesses this property, iri a slight dqgree, is obvious, from the common *museineirt m which bqys indulge, of projecting alitdffe forci- .^^ jffect is, tier >y ev^pora- sry limited mperature, it, before itity of its the fluid •e observed We often , and other ! their sur- re^ard to —perhaps^ :ess of con- numerous rom being with their s the same es to the processes, ent during i;estions I tion to the thfe Can- ; plunged lence this will take with an periments DQ means lly, when i differen- eat could tity as to ou what- er as well }mit slow smely, by las: they exterior ilasticity ; ie degree :sses this common me i M*Keevor's Foyagt to Hudson'^ Bay. 19 ) My on the surface of a pond,, thus making what they call a duck and drake. Agreeing, thenj as these two fluids do in so many particulars, what is there, I woulda^dn the constitution of wa- ter that should prevent the transmission of radiant caloric ?— ^;?/f ?»'/"»' transmitted through this fluid, what then becomes 1 J I* *' converted into s|,ow communicating caloric ^ '^"- would be to assert their id^tity, which, I befieve, aIl/1 phers deny Finally, I may remark, that the entire irf this sub- ject, notwithstanding the ingenius and laborious ex^feriments of Mr. Lesshe, appears to me involved in a good deaTof obscurity. 1 he nature of radiant heat ; whether identical wi^ light or not ;-- as also the causes, why one portion of caloric shbuld escape by radiation, and another by slow communication j Aiese are*bints on which, I think, we still stand much in need of further infor- mation Until, therefore, these matters are more fully investi- gated, I conceive we have just grodnds to conclude, that water and^air bear the same relations to radiant caloric. Having now enumerated the various causes which I conceive -J.tT'^u f ^^.'^"«'3°n of »ce on sea-water, I have further to remarlf, that this opinion is supported by the actual observa- V"' «"le difficulty "ac: counting for tbeirsubsequent enlargement. When the winter -. season sets m, and that crystallized* snow begins to fall, it bl. ^^ comes consolidated by the excessive cold of the climate, aid wilt\ ,of course^ prest down the primary strata, to use a geoloSX ghr^e.O'he other aqueous meteors of hail, rain, &c!suSe a «.Tim'[,?T ^"""i!?"' "^^ *'*" '^^"y *«n<^e»ve that, by a gradual accumulation in this way, masses of any size n?a> be formed^ "f- N' \ * \ 20 M'Keevor's Voyage to Iftfdson's Bay. \ The disruptions so common during the summer months, as also the overlapping of the fields, will likewise lay the foundiflon for further accumulations. The cause assigned by Mr. Lesslie will alsotssist in accounting for their progressive in«rea«e. "The mostAatisfacrory mode," remarks this able philosopberi " of ex- plaining the phenomenon, is to refer it to the operation of a gene- ral principle, by which the inequalities on the surface of a field of ice must be constanjly increased. The lower parts of the field being nearer the tempered mass of the obean, are not so cold as those which project into the atmosphere, ?»nd, consequently, the air which ascends, becoming chilled in sweeping over the emi- nences, there depdsits some of its moisture, forming an i6y coat. But this coiitinued. incrustation, in the lapse of ages, produces a vast accumulation, till^the shapeless mass is at length precipitated by its own weight." ■ . *^ With regard to the kind of solution which the field-ice affords, a variety of opinions have prevailed. Some asserting that the solution had a saline tasie, others, that it was quite free from it. 1 his discordancy may, I conceii^e, be explained in this way : when tlhe sahne substances dissolved in sea water lose their medium of solution. It is obvious they must be precipitated j and even though some of the particles should continue interspersed through the frozen mass, it must be merely in a state of mechanical union. Ihesbperincurabent layer of water, however, by slowj* percula- ting tiirough the spongy mass, will gradually wash away those entangled particles. We can thus very yetfdily account for the circumstance of even the portion which is formed from sea-water affording a solution* altdgether destitute of saline taste. When however, this process of filtration is arrested by the deposition of an incumbent layer of Jre»A toatir ice, which is of a very close tex- ture, these masses will then have a saline taste. Professor Lesslie, of Edinbaiigh, who has thrown much light on this very interesting department of physical science, has lately dicovered the singular fa'ct, that frigorific impressions are con- stantly showering dowi^uring the day, as well as during the^ night, from the higher regions of the atmosphere. From a^Ariety of experiments pefformed by this philosopher, for the purpose of measoring those pulsations, it appears that the effect varies con- siderably according to the condition of the higher regions j it is greatest while the sky has the pure azure huej it diminishes liJnlihJf^h""'^*.''''* frigments on board; iiave melted them, and nniformly found that the lolution wv altogether free from the taste of MiMratet. ' il \ ,1 V •nths, as also >undafion for . Lesslie will M«e. « The kCfi " of ex- on of a geae> i of a field of s of the field lot so cold as squently, the rer the eoai- an idy coat. >, produces a i precipitated I- ice affords, log, that the Free from it. t way : when r medium of even though through the nioal union, vy percula- away those )unt for the m sea- water te. When, eposition of ry close tex>- much light e, has lately ns are con- diiring the- )m a^varietj purpose of varies con- gions ; it is diminishes lad naifonnly ttec. I l^Kewor'M Voyage to Hudtm't Bay, 21 fast, as the atmospiierec^becomes loaded with spreading clouds, and it is almost extinguished when low fogs settle on the sur- face. These effects are, no doubt, niore conspicuous in the finer regions of the globe. Accordingly, they did not escape the observation of the ancients,4>ut gave rise to opinions which were embodied in the language of poetry. The terra Ane, was applied only td the ^rrossest part of the atmpsphere, while the . liighest portion of it, free from clouds and vapour, and bor- dering on the pure fields of ecther, received the kindred ap^ pellation of AtBgit,, In southern climates especially, a trans- piercing cold is felt at night under the clear and sparkling ca- nopy of heaven. The natives carefully avoid exposing them- selves to this supposed celestial influence, yet a tbin shed of palra-leayes may be sufficient at once to shdter them against the chilling impressions rained from the higher atmosphere. The Captains of the French gallics in the Mediterranean used formerly to cool their wines in auinmer by hanging their^flasks all night from the masts. At dayrbreak they we^e takeii. dpwn, and lapped in several folds of flannel, to preserve tbem ia the same «tate. The frigorific impressk^t of aserene and azure sky must undoubtedly have concuned with the power of evapo- I'^tion in augmenting the energyiof the process of nocturnal cooling, practised anciently in E^pt, and now systematically pursued in the higher grounds of India. As the chilliness ac- cumulated on the ground is greatest on clear nights, when the mpon fahines brightest, it seemed very natural to impute this effect partly to some influcdce emanating from that feeble luminary. ^ The instrument which Professor Lesslite employed in his experiment on this highly iuterresting subjectrne terms au iEthrioscope (from, the Greek word Atfl^o;, which, in reference to the atmosphere, signifies at once clear, dry^ and cold.) U ia!, in fact, a combination of the ordinary pyroscope, and is formed by adapting that instrument to the cavity of a polished metalic ' cup, of rather an oblong spheroidal shape, the axis being oc- cupied by the sentient ball, while the section of an horizontal plane, passing through the upper, forms the orifice. The cup may be i&ade of thin brass, or silver, eithcir hammered or cast, and then turned and polished on a lathe, the diameter being from two to four inches, and the excentricity of the ellipticfS figure varied within certun limits, according to circumstances ; the most convienient proportion, however^ is to have this ex- centricity' eaual tahalf the transverse axis,.aiid coni^uently Jo place the fodu at the third part of the wheleh eiri it ^ fee I. ' # i 3i i A % Ai'Ktwor'i Koyag* to Httdsoti's Bay. A« , t'Svity the (Jiamtiter »f the ^ntipn^hciii k • ii ,. the third part of that of tfe X ^f the"! u^'^T' T'^^ ^ separate more the ball, of the pyr^^cone .L '^i, " '''^''' ^^ cflrried somewhat hUtler than Z Z^ * »he gilt one may b? swell of the cavityX stem bein. h ; ? "?^ 'odged in the neck p„r.h..|y wid'ened ^p e Jt'lh liJ^'TT^^' ^t' coloured liquor in carnW A lid of h- Ii«^. I-"''"? J***' metal as the cup itself if fi.tP? t« >i?I '?"*, ^^"^ unpolished well grounded it will orol to k ^ , '"f,'"'*'"'"^"* P'-o*'^ to be • every phyifcal cah ne^ iVe iH^ '''""^'" '*^^"'»^ aensaiion through indefinite space, and° evel t'he rnn^-r "r impressions of cold which IrrTv*1K.»i, ^''f ''e'»'^«n». The found. strongerTan tiJose Swh f^l"??'* *"" P">'»«'»'y ^e instrument L yj? ^e^ scaVcdl^^^ We ''^'^' ?"*' "^^ compare its indications for the cou«Tof .!^Li ' ""«'T .''* more solicitous to receJv.. ;». ,-!^T * ''"**'® y**""' and st 1 bri^hterskie* £/S I P°".' ''■°'" <«''er climates, and o/^dm6«rgV vi'^i. pliTil.^'^"^'^ ''•^'^ ItmlSo while saitffig iirough straggling ice, one of the men on the quarter-deck obseWed, at a few yards distance. 5"l?'lT *?** h«,two young!, cubs. The captain imme- diate y Ordered, the jblly-boat tb be lowered, and musketa. pistols, cbtlassesV &c. to be got in Veadines. All things beine prepared. Mr. Fidler, Mr. CockeAl, the first mate, Sith onl or two i^ore, set out in pursuit of thdm. We were all leaninr .fir V** V^*"^ ^»V'"ff with the gr^test anxiety, for the in- teresting scene that we expected to ~ many yards from the vessel, when sight: the mother, bbserving their a[ intention^ set up a most doleful cr)L and presently clasped her two .young ones within her two fore \paws. First she would ^k atdnie, then at another, and again r^ume her piteous cry. Ferceivihg the men to approach still nearer, she got them on ner bac^i, and di»ed under water to a 'considerable distance i when ekhaosted, she made to the ice for shelter. This she did several successive times. The gentlemen who went out tor the purpose of shooting her, were so justly affected at the sight, that they humanely returned to the ship without dia- charging their muskets. Still, however , the (wo r, bear app te^ ■t<; i4 M'k^v&f^s Voyage to Hudton's Bay. henifed daowr After getting on a detached piece of ice she agam clasped her young ones with the greatest teSderniss and continued her heart-melting cries ! In about ten minxes ano- ther party,* not subject to the same correct sensStv is ^h^ former, went ,n Pursuit of her. Immediately on obse viL this she again took her young ones on her back; one t mT itS under wai«r at Another, escaping to the ice for refuge. ^heS the party had got within a short distance of her, they a» fired, the a'E^^lr:;''"'^'''* b-d/o'^en.d her young cubs so eCualTy%?at she alone was wounded j one of the balls entered her chest. The weTad'aSeltrht^^^^^^^^ stil, more affecting than that -J!!*'"*'* ™°«a"y wounded, she retained within her fond ^^^nT2l**'''*fj;y°"''«- '*'°°'**='* «» ^''""ffh the iron grasp of dtath could not tear asunder those ties of affection which bound herlo them. Still she would fondly gaze a^ ^'\ S°' ""*?'*'''' occasionally renewing her piteoui cries, ««^«.^f rS!"' ^''Zu^ T^'' """^^ ^"'^'^- But the purple current of hfe was ebbing fast through the wound: her sides heaved-^her eye became glassy and dim-she looked at her young ones-gave a convulsive sob— laid dowij her head, and ex- pired IT X After this, they had no difficulty in taking the young cubs. 1 hey in vmn, however, endeavoured to loose them from their parehfs embraces. Even while dragging her up the side of the vessel, they still kept their hold. When the/ had got her on board, she was immediately skinned.J When the skin '"!17T''*1* *''*y P"* ** *°*° ^^^ *="Se ''hich had been pre- S^'T^K. ♦• **Z1"°^ *'°*''- .^' *^^y '^^"'^^ mast -Wdfeously from the time^they were torn from the mother, we were in AopeJ ^at rtns might pacify tbelli j and it did so : it was no sooher idtrodaced than they laid their heads down on it, and irrowled HI-fT «*'«"'"« »n»nn«^. When any one attempted to touch It, they, roared very loud and appeared much more irri- -eJItoS"'** «"'<»*«', of monsten in the ifaape of men, or hnman savages! d.LlLLJUf'^ *■?•*•''' '" *•'" transaction ment the tormeats of the E^^ISSr^ men-and the vengeance of .n insalted Deity.-!' 2f» ?h!^:.w*"'!f '"'«*^ *°.^r !"*«!«>•« tn-cle" of Uie opposite side. Ic nt or^.f!."J' ^"^ .""I^T*' ♦''*"*° • bottle filled with spirhVVbat one of toe «^'rrf^Lr^*ilill"''!!l!i"' «'»*'"'" "^ St in some way or 'other, and beSj 2SS ^^V. th««Mnorbid aaatomy, drank the iaid in which I had ihtiB pr^ )f ice, she ^rnrss, and lUtes, ano- lity as the rving this, re getting e. When I fired, the ually, tliat lest. The than that her fond the iron affection ' gaze at >us cries, le purple her sides d at her I, and ex- ing cuhs. rom their i side of got her the skin )een pre- Md'eously in -faopes soober growled apted to nore irri- I savages ! Its of the Deity.—' the arcb of de. I cot one oftiie and being ibtinpre* M^Keevor's Voyage to Hudson's Bay. JJ5 able than usual, ^hey were brought home, and sold in Lon- ,don at a very high price,* ' When detached from its young, ho^ very different is the character of the pdar bear from that I have just described. It is then » most/ formidable animal, being apparently the natural lord of those fr-ozen region*. Every othfir animal shudders at his ajiproach, considering it as the signal for im- jnediate destruction. The seals either retire to their subma- rine dwellings, or conceal themselves in the crevices of the ice-islands j while tire bear, stalking along with solemn nja- ^esty, « faces the breeze, raises his head, and snuffs the pass- ing scent, whereby he discovers the nearest route to his i odorous banquet." A favourite poet, with great truth and pea^ty, thus describes the rtiajch of this formidable animal ;— " Tlicrc, through ll^e piny forest, half absorbed, Roii|{h tenant of thOsc shades, the shapeless bear, ' With dangling ice, all horrid, stalks forlorn ; ' Slow.paced, and sawer as the storms increase. He makes his be4 beneath Uie iQcle^icnt drift, And with stem patience, scorning weak complaiiit, Hat^ens his iK'art against assailing want." They are possessed of stich uncdmmon strength, and de- fend themselves, when beset, with such extraordinary ob- stmacy, that even the natives of the country never venture •to attack them but in parties of eight or ten, and even then are often defeated with the loss of one or more of their num- ber. Though to a skilful rifleman the danger b very much diminished, the bear is still an animal of tremendous strength and fierceness, as will appear from the following adventure!— Captain Lewis teHs us, that one evening the men in the hind- most of the canoes discovered a large silver bear lyimr in the open grounds, about 300 paces from the river. Six of them, nil-good hunters, set outjo attack him, and concealing them- sel^s by a small eminence, came unper&eived within forty paces of him. Four of them now fired, and each lodged a ball m his body; two of them directly through the lunM. The justly-enraged animd sprqng up, and rp open-mouthed . tuT^ *!?* atladmeat iriddi the she-bear has for her yotaic. k wefl known a tree. ^Zx\^'h,«SL !!?*^i!.^W*.?^'*^i Atthattime,ifhniw,XV&?Si«Ltoii2ke ^12*TSi ^^ <*#!»>««« ^ " bags of blubber, with half-frozen, half putrid flesh ; skins of different animals, as of the bear, rabbit, hare, seal, and deer j dried salmon, dogs, a few fresh fowls ; toys of various kinds, as models of their canoes, dresses, &c. In return they got glass beads, old knives, hatchets, but- tons, pins, and needles j gimblets, scissars, pieces of old iron- hoops, which they prized tery highly j brass rings, tin pots, kettles, saws, files, &c. f It would be difficult to give expression to the feelings of gratification, delight, and surprise, which, in hurried succes- sion, passed through my mind on. first getting a view of these untutored savages; their manners, persons, dress, lan- guage, every thing, in short, so completely different from what » , / ^l^iTO* MS JTi iBo mifie UM oT ■» • tCTm mi m 30 . M*Keevor*tVoyd^e\o Hudson* $ Bay. we are accustomed to in civilized life, that one Would almost fancy them the natives of a different planet altogether. In stature the Esquimeaux is inferior to the generality of Eu- ropeans. I have never seen any of them* exceed five feet in height, excepting one, who was five feet four inches. Their* faces are broad, and approach more to the rounded form than that^bf the European j thei^; cheek-bones are high ; their cheeks roun^ and plump, mouth large, and lips slightly averted ; the glabella, or interval between the eyes, is flat and very brbad j the- nose \^ small, but not fljtt, as some writers have described ; their eyes, in general, are of a deep bldck ; some, however, are of a dark chesnut.colour } they appear very small, owing to t^e eye-lids being so much encumbered with fat j the head is large j hair uniformly long, lank, and of a black colour ; their eye-lids appeared tender, owing, I suppose, to the piercing winds and strong glare of light reflected from the snow in winter-time j the ears are situated far back on the head, and are roovea^e; their bodies are large, square, and robust, che^t high,, shoul- ders very broad ; their hands and feet remarkably small ;* there is, however, no sudden diminution ; both extremities appear to taper from above downwanl ift a wedge-like shape. Their boots and shoes^ being mad? of undressed leather, being also very clumsy. I did not for some time take particular no- tice of their feet. I happened, however, to observe one of the '^men on the ^uarter-deek endeavouring to draw on a pair of , boots, which he had just purchased from the m^n whose mea- surement I have given; the leg -passed on easy enough until it eame to the lower part, whien it was suddenly arrested, nor couM he force it further, though he tugged land pulled at it for sTconsiderable time. They are of a deep tawney, or rather copper-coloured complexion. The assertion that they have got no beard must be treated as an idle tale; the fact is, it bo sooner appears than, from motives of comfort, and, perhaps, of ^ cleanliness, they pluck it out by the rodf, h|^ving no more convenient way of removing it. I recollect bringing one of the yo^ng men, w^^ose beard was just beginning to make its appeaWnce, down to the cabin, and showing him the mode of using a razor : the poor fellow appeared highly delighted 'y he placed himself before a glass, and. really imitated the process t)f shaving very well; however, he nicked himself in two or three places, at which he laughed very heartily. I did not remark that difference of voice in the young and adult, which * Small hands and feet Ihey possess in common uritb the Chinoe, Kanu- 1«EatEaDii, New HoUanders, PeruvisuM, and HoCtttatots. " ^^Keevor's Voyage to Hudson** Bay. 31 is so very remarkable in these countries ; males and fepmles, young and old, had all the same low, husky, whispering kind of voice.* I shall here give a few words of their language, which I occa- / sionally wrote down during their visits to us. Whalebone -What's this A knife Water . Give us Women - Blubber - A paddle - Go off A saw An arrow - A bow A canoe - A boat A dog Hair The foot - \^a egg - Sukok. Oomena. Mukmamuk. Emik. Pelite. ■ Challeneer. Tuktoo. Poatik. Twa wi. Kutaswabbo. Katso. Petiksik. . Porta viiiigar. Ktljak. Mik6. 'Nootshad. Itikak. Miniguk. A •Tbis hoarse whispering kind of voice was very observable in the voddk Esqiiimeaox who was atEdiabargh last year ;<-tboiig^ he had been, When 1 saw him, near eight months in tne country, he still spoke, in ordinary con. ▼ersation, as if he were wfaispoteg. He was a very fine young man, aced abont nineteen, and had been a widower for a considerable time^ It was Mir<. Pfislng to see liow soon he adopted the Eoropean costoms ; when shown into a nm, be bowed V*ry grace boots we (hawn tight about their knees by means of a rnnoiog-string ; their shoes l^re made to tie Jn close to theahkle t^ the same contrivance^ The women's boots are made tcrcpme up as high a; the hips j they are at this part viery wide, anckmade to stand off by means ^ of a strong bow of whalebone passed round the top. 4n4^ — these they put the children v^jhen tired with carrying them pa ^ M*li^€em*$ Voyage to Hudson's Bay. 33 iWit ^M. In pliwt) oi thread they nLake ose of the siacfirs of therewHdfflr^ Uie ebres/of which they split very 6oe, and after- waifd^ tv»t §^ HJ^PH «t other «»tre»iiy, when seated iir his ^no^ MTfir ifune csiMM de AumUw 4i»'iU pwtoBt tort l'«i**Mir !«• inm^^lmt deux planches minces, perches en^en« VTdroitk arec nne aWne^JTe ^ttede rc!!!irJrpr;:Mr!i"jri'.* <•-'*«« '-t^t-vec^nn bojrrjhrci^ ^VoTACiis and Travels, No. 2, Fo/. //. -■ 1 1 'I I r %v 1^ E '% * 34 M*K«fthr]$ Foyagt to Hudson's Bay. he takeai- hold of h by the centre, dips either end in the watir alternately, and thus he moves with incredible celerity ; so great, „ indeed, that an English boat, with twelve oars, is not able to keep up with him.* The broad flat part^ is generally inlaid, in a very tasty and fanciful manner, with portions of sea-horse teeth, cat into a variety of forms. The dexteri^ with which they manage these canoes is really astopishmg. No ifeather can prevent them from gojng out to 4ea ; they venture out in the midst of tempestuous whirlwinds, and drivmg snows, with as much composure as if it werea Otifect calm. Even though the sea should break over them, in an^&atant they are again seen flying along the ridge of the wave. /» ^^ ■ But what appears still more extraordinary, is the powe^ they possess of completely upsetting themselves in their canoes, so as to hang perpendicularly under the water. I shall relate an instance of this. Captain Turner was one day standing on the quarter-deck while the Indians were alongside trading; he observed at some diifemce an.Esqoimaux paddling up and down, as if for amusemetit: having madAJt sign to him to come over, he told him he would give hiiMknife and a few needles, incase he would capsize himself Tn hiif canoe. The Indian immediately made tight all his running strings, lapped •ome skins about his bodv, and having thus secured hiipself from the water entering, he looked at CapUin Turner with a vejy significant air j he then inclined his body towards the sur- face of the water, and instantly dipped down ; here he remained suspended for a few seconds, when he appeared at the opposite side in his former upright position. This he did three successive times. When he had done, he shook himself, laughed very hear- tily, and after getting hjs knife and needles, paddled oflF. The value which* th'ey set on their canoes is, as we might naturally suppose, very great j indeed, they will very rarely part with them, unless they get in exchange a considerable number of valuable articles, such as a tin-pot, a kettle, a saw, and perhaps a few gimblets. Captain Turner pur6h(ised one of the neatest I think 1 have ever seen : it was quite new, and was very beautifully ornamented. The hoop which surrounds the^ central aperture, instead of wood, «u made of highly- polished ivory. The workmanship on the extremity of the pad- dle was exquisite. Before the owner parted with it he paddled up to an elderly man at some distance, whom, the captain told us. \ • Sec Page 31. I <"i^t»i. .'•.A j n 'the waMr ;y;8o great, able to keep d, in a very e teeth, cat oes is really ^oing out to whidMnds, erea jMirfect D ao^j^tant . • /»■■ ^- ■ powei' they eir canoes, shall relate itanding on e trading ; ing up and to hiin to and a fewr [inoe. The igs, lapped -ed hiqaseir rner with a is the sur- e remained be opposite ' successire very hear- >ff: we might i^ery rarely ansiderable tie, a saw, sed one of new, atid surrounds if highly- t the pad- he paddled tin told us. M*Keewr'i Voyage to Hudion't Bay. \ 35 was his father ; which, indeed, we had conjectured,, as well from liis aged appearance as from the great respect this young mma appeared to pay to him. After deliberating for some time lie returned attJ^^told Mr. Turner he should have the canoe, and im- mediately Ht about emptying it of its 'contents. The articles which he took out he put into his father's; and having given it up to the «iptaio, he stretched himself quite Hat behind liis pa- rent, covering his face with his hands ; here be lay.,quite oom^ posed, without the smallest motion. Tlje father havmg received Ills tio-pot, kettle, hatclwt, and a couple of files, rowed otT. The daf following we heard that this poor fellow had slipped off from behiud^ fats father while on the way to the shore, and was drw'ned. The avidity of these poor people for traflBc, exceeded any thing I could have had an idea of. Many of them, after parting- with all theirgoods, stripped themselves almost naked, and be-* gan to dispose of their clothes for tlie merest triflef. One man gave a very .beautiful seal-skin jacket for an old rusty knife, ^nother parted with his breeches and boots for a file and a few needles. Another with % complete suit of clothes, for a > saw and a few pieces of old iron. At length, thinking they had exhausted our entire stock of hardware, they began to barter with the ship's dr#w for their old clothes. It frequently afforded us a humorous sight too see those poor creatures dis- posing of their whole and comfortable, though rudely-formed j^rments, for a seaqoan's old tVorkj^g-jacket, or perhaps for an old checked shirt, through the numerous rents and apertures of which their copper-coloured skins here and there made its appearance. _ They generally paddled away in a great hurry, after corfipleting the bargain, feanng lest the purchaser might possibly repent ; an apprehension which I could assure them was quite groundless. One of them purchased an old red night-cap from the cook, and having adjusted it, on his head, he looked at himself in a glass, and laughed most immoderately. Several of them had hags of blubber, mixed with half- putnd half-frozen Hesh j these they ofiered for sale with great eagerness, and appeared very %iuch surprised that they got no purchasers. Being anxious to examine their contents, I was induced to buy one j on opening it, however, such a shocking stench proceeded from it, that 1 very cheerfully restorect it to the original possessor. 1 had no sooner returned it to him, than applying the open extjremity to his mouth, he took a drink from it, licked his lips, and laid it aside very carefully. Others ha4 raw seal's-flesh, which' ih^y also seemed to consider a great luxury. I have frequently seen them take out a piece, eat a portion of it, and, when done, lick thdr fingere and lips, a* if" m- m r- s^ M*K*ewr'i Vdyctge te Hudnn't Bdt/. they had bieen feedra^ on th* fnigttcnts of ioibt sumMuous banquet. *^ in conseqaence of the great number of caniiibed % w a co-^ <, means of ttie tootli iw:bfii|a^ M*XiBmat*i Foyage to Hudmf* Ma^, , S7 of sdnie land^aniinal. In otlier respects ber drea* was Kite that of the rest : she appeared to have the command orthe entire, Im nonesf diem bartered, even the most tirTfl)Bg article, without fint asking ber permission. I uniEornaly observed that men arid women, when tbcy had gotten any thing in eichange, immediately commenced licking it| to intimate, as f afterwards learned, that it was then their proper^.. While tcadinr with the women, I, had an opportunity of observing how far th^ were from despising all sort 6f authority; they all appeared attentive .to the voice of wis- dom, which time and experience had conferred on the aged. It is age which teaches experience^ and experience is the only source of knowlc^dge amongst a barbarous people. I remaiied tbit several of the mothers pointed repeatedly to the children's hc«d«« as I sapiMsed for the parpose of selling them $ in this, however, I was^uke mistaken, as they have for their obildreo the great- est aifectioo, and do not part with them for pny consideration. I understood afterwards, that ^t was merely to recommend them to my notice, in order that I might give them semething. The chiildren, most of whom were about nine or ten years old, appeared of very lively dispositions, and mai^ of them were really very well looking. I did not observe that thiey npri<* manded them in any way ; indeed, I am told that thir is never done. Liberty is their darling passion I it is this which makes life supportable, and to it they are ready to Isaorifice every thing | thek education is directed, "therefore, in such a maimer as to cherish this disposition to the utmost. Rcasop, they si^, wiUU guide their children when they come to the udc ef k, and befom" that time thdr foults. cannot be very eoosiderable j faot blows, «by producing a slavish motive to action, might damp their free and martial spirit. ^ A few 0( the women had young children at the breast* I recollect one in particular, who, while very busy trading, was math annoyed with the crying of Jlier young squaw, about six - months old, which she had in the hood of her gannent. Unwil- ling to be at the trouble of hoidi^ k to the brea«t,i» she went up to the stern of the boat, where the old woman .was aitting;' and took out a small bag of blubber, applied (he open estremity to the infant a mouth, and pressing it between hd- thumb and fone&ngcr, abe in this way forced a quantity of ibto the young thiog'a motttht the crying immediately ceaaed, and, in a few minuta, the aavage was Cost asleep, \. •■!»■■ f • Ijnapr here reaiark, Uiat tbfir bt^n^tf, thauffa »ery luog mkI fl%l;f id, •■« Ly ao means of sufficiettt lesgth to thfoVr over tbeir Shoatdj»?i, a* tOUt taYe V'/> SB M*Kteoer*$ Foyage to Hudmn^iBay. til, ' ^ When the women had disposed of their merchandize, they- SinTi? "Vt. " Twa wi, twa wi ;" and then pointed to tS ship, thus mtimatmg their wish that we should leave them. ' Jn the evenmg aboat sixty of them, men, women, and chil- S'f^T °° ^^^'. . '^^^ ^°"^" appeared highly delighted with the dancmg, and imitated it veijr closely. We shIwS ?i ^^l ""'* °^ '*"; "^" **•« ^«^« bears we had taken on the ln!i P«y *«Peared very much terrified at the sight of them, and uttered somethmg which I could not understand. One of them pomted to his side, where I observed a very large scar • he then made a growling kind of noise, and ran aSay with peat speed. I thence concluded that this poor felloi had been bit by a bear some time previous. Tea being announced, we brought several of them down to the cabin, and placed nf «Sf ^f^ '^' u^» "^' *"8[^' ^^^'^^ ™"*^» «"«» a variety of other things ; but they rejected them all with the greatest disgust; sugar they appeared to dislike particularly. Every after it * observed, spit it out, and cleansed their mouths We happened to have for dinner that day some very nice roasted pork, and being anxious to see if they would eat . 5 f .P'",*'™ * **'«*' "'»ce on a plate before one of them : I also laid a knife and fork before him. He appeared to like the meat well enough, but his knife and fork he managed very badly J for instead of introducing the piece on theSrk i2to his mouth, the point of it went off to his cheek, while the hand went to his mouth. I was much amused with this S5n- gular instance of the strong force of habit. The children be- haved themselves remarkably well. We could not, however prevail on them to sit more than a few minutes in one position! When placed m a chair, they would look down on either side of It, jump up, and run about the cabin. Being anxious to bear what the mother would say in case 1 attempted chasUsing one of them, I began to pull the ears of a very fine boy, about twelve years old, who was sitting beside «ie. Themother im> mediMely stood up, and gave roe a veiy fierce angry look. Observing that she Was much displeased, I immediately began to pat him on the heH and gave him a few beads. Shein- stahtly^recovered hei^ good humour, and cried out, ♦* Chimo, chimo. There was obly one of them attempted to pilfer. Hap- pening to look round kther suddenly, I observed one of them slipping a silver spoon into bis boot. I immediately arrested hi* hand, took the sptoon, and shewed it to his companions. He did notappear at allWshamed of b eing detected, but laughed "«'*»«»^ n^irtily. -;-- ■■— .Uy^-.-.- — . _-!i 1 — __-_-o- -.:t- — M*Keevor*s Voyage to Hu^on*M Bay, 99 About ten o'clock they left us; the greater part of them made towards thie shore, to which they were directed by the placid light of a full unclouded moon. We gazed after them for a considerable time, until at length they were lost in the dark and shadowy line of land which lay before us. Those who remained about the ship, slept on the ice the entire nigbt, with merely the interposition of a few seal-skins. Before retiring to rest, I dbserved them take from their canoes some raw seal's-flesh and bags of blubber, on which they appeared to feast very sumptuously. I remarked, that one of them kept watch in turn during the entire night; he walked about on the ice with a harpoon in his hand. This I fancy was more from a dread of being attacked by the bears, than from any apprehension they had of bemg attacked by the Europeans. A few of us remained on decjt until a very late hour; at one time watching every motion of our northern friends, at another, gazing with asto- nishment and delight on the brilliant and impressive scenery with which we were surrounded. While thinking on the miserable condition of the squalid inhabitants of this dreary inhospitable climate, I was forcibly reminded of the foUoWinir beautiful lines of Cowper :— ' Within the endorare of ^onr rocka Nor herds have ye to boastt nor bleating flocks ; No fertilizing streams yonr lietds divide. That show, revers'd, the villas on tbeh- side : No gro'M have ye ; nodieerfalMnindof bird, Or voice of tortle, in yoor land is heard i No grateful eglantine regales the sm«U Of those.that walk at evening, where yon dwell* With regard to the diseases terable state, was so predo- nninant, that though this might justly be called the most mer- citul act that could be done for the i>oor creature, it seemed to be unwelcome, for, though much exhausted by pain and loss of blood, she made several eflForts to ward off the friendly ' blow. Mysituation, and the horror of my mind 6t beholding 4hi8 scene of butchery, cannot easily be conceived, much less described : though I summed fifp all the fortitude I was master pt on the occasion, it was with difficulty I could refrain from tears; and; I am confident that my features must have feelingly expressed how sincerely I was a^etedat the barbarous scene I then witnessed. Even at this moment 1 cannot reflect on the transactions of that horrid day without shedding tears." NotwithsUndingAe shocking persecutions to which these poor creatures are exposed, there are no people in all the vast variety of climate, of soil, and of civilization, so attached to the land of their birth j afibrding a striking proof thW this strong passion is by po means commensurate with the phy- sical advantages of the soil. The contrary, indeed, appears to be the fact J the wretchedness of their poodition,*^wid dreadful seventy of their climate, appearing rather to ami- tiply and strengthen those ties of attachment! The fewf who have been brought or rather forced away to this wnniiy, provided with every comfort, have still sighed after their K^i?*"*"*"*?"*' ^^^'' *^^^^^ ^'^ and fnjoky wigwams. Wo distance, however remote, nor lapse of time, however LMpKflrierainAvidneidecettenatioD qn'on ait TOteDEnro M unfile pur l« MTi(ateiir Forbuher, qui pi^ettta, en I57r. tr ' !».* !^ g'aabeth; oa let woiaena inr de petiti cheTam de cow*, A il> ^ cle uuemi,.^DePai> mr Us Americmu, toI. C. «58. VoTAois and Tbatxls, No, 2, Vol. U, ] , J avoient Csqniaauz •pects. T s I U i \. 42 APKeevor't Voyage to Hudson s Bay. great, appeared capable (jf eradicating this strong passion from their hearts.* ' But where to find that happiest spot below, Who can direc))^ when all prptrnd to knuw? The shnddering tenant of the frigid zone Boldly proclaims tliat happy spot his own ; ExtolH the treasures of hi.s stormy seas. And Iiis long nights of revelry and case. 1 1,^*'*^ regard to their disptisitions, were I to judge frt)ni what I had an opportunity of seeing, i\should suppose them to be a good-humoured, mild, tractable \raee of people. Others however, have represented them ip a very different light' accusiflg them of cruelty, theft, deceit, and, in short, every vice. It IS probable, however, that these accounts have been received from the North-American Indians, who, as I already mentioned, have long been thqir inveterate eneniies. Captain Wales, who resided for many years in Hudson's Bay, speak- ing of them, says, " I have had, whilst \at Churchill, an ex- ceedingly good opportunity of learning the dispositions of these people, as several of them come almost every year bv their own free will to reside at the factory,\ and can with truth aver, that never people less deserved the em to be Others, 21) t light, >rt, every ave been I already Captain y, speak- I, au ex- utions of y year by vith truth jf * tvea- ntrary of ire open, must be think an re almost ;nient on qrily be- ia, Mr. y are apt degree of uot Jielp 2r idea q( bold and robability nough to face. wn cnctomi tie u^thtro there kept ntry. One one of the plcntifiilly, leiid me to I'a Vonaftto M^Keevor's Voyage to Hudson's Bay. 43 Of their .religious opinions I have been able to learn but lit- tle. Our imperfect acquaimance with their language j their avi- dity for traffic, which was so great as to prevent their attending to any enquiries on such matters ; these, together with the shortness of our stay among them, rendered it very difficult to ascenain any thing of a satisfactory nature on that subject. Some have very foolishly supposed that they adored a small figure resem- bling a bear, and made from the tooth of the sea-horse : it is, however; merely intended as a kind of amusement during their long and tedious winter evenings. From the body, which is per- forated with a number of small holes, hangs a slender piece of stick, pointed; and, on this, they endeavour to catch the bearjjust in the same way as the cup and ball is used by the boys of this country. The following conversation, which is related by the accurate historian Crantz, to have passed between a converted Green- lander and one of Jhe Moravia(i missionaries, will probably afford a better idea of their religious sentiments than any account I could give. The missionary having expressed his wonder how they could formerly lead such a senseless life, void of all reflection, one of them answered as follows : "It is true we were ignorant heathens, and kne^^nothing of a God or a Saviour j and, indeed, who should tell us of him, till you came ? — But thou must not imagine, that no Greenlander thinks about these things. I, myself, have ofteg thought a kajak (boat), with all its tackle and impleinents, does not grow into existence of itself j but must be made by the labour and ingenuity of man, and one that does not understand it would directly spoil it. Now, the meanest bird has far more skill displayed in its structure than the bes^t kajak, and no man can make a bird. But there, is a still far greater art shown ia the formation of a man than of any other creature. Who was it that made him ? I bethought me, he proceeded from his pa- rents, and they from their parents.- But some mast have been the first parents : whence did they come ? Common report in- forms me they grew out of the earth. But if so, why does it not still happen that men grow out of the earth ? And from whence did this same earth itsilf, the sea, the sun, the moon, and stars, rise into existence ? Certainly there must be some Being who made all these things— a Being that always was, and can never cease to. be. He must be inexpressibly more mighty, knowing, and wise, than the wbest man. He must be very good too; because, every thing that be has made is good, useful, mid necessary for us. Ah ! did I but know him, how would I love him and honour him ! But who has seen him ? Who has conversed with him ? — none of lis poor menr^ ¥ef there may be men Too that k&bw fomfllhib^ I 4 h m if 1 m Si: -••( 44 • M*Ki»vor'* forage to Hudion't Bay, of him. Oh I could I but speak with such! Therefore, (s«!d he) as soon as ever I heard you speak of this Great Beinjr, I believed it directly with all my heart, because I bad so long desired it." They all believe in a future state, tut differ very much witji regard to its nature and situation* In general, they wnagine it iaj^ a better state than this temporal life, and that it WillOever end.* A^ they procure the greater part of their food goffl the bosom of the sea, therefore many of them place their Elysium in the abysms of the ocean, or bowels of the earth, and tbink the deep cavities of the rocks are the avenues leading to It. There, they imagine, dwells a Tonjarink and his mother: there amyous summer is perpetual, and a shining sun obscured by no night; -there is the feir limpid stream, and an ezuberanee ol fowls, fishes, and their beloved seals, and these are all to be caught without toil J nay, they are wen found in a great kettle zeadydrest. But to these places none must approach, except those that have been dextrous and diligent at their work j that kave performed great exploits, have mastered many whales and aeals, have undergone great hardships^ iiave beeo drowned in the ^eft> or died in child-bed. . ' la reviewing the manners of these untutored Indiana, some few particulars excepted, we are presented with aa intertsting view of primeval happiness, arising chiefly fron the fewnes^ of tfceir wan^, and their universal equality. The hutcr destroys all distUGtiiMi among them, except those pf age and personal Wfrit, and promotes the ease, harmony, and flreedom of their mn- teal COTversation and intercourse. This ^litat)e& the haBDiacsa ^ the Ipdian lover, who finds no obstacles ta th^ fruitioB of hia desires^ from inequality of rank or fortuneAor/|rom the views mifik amhitioa or envy inspire j aad thisi annihilates all eovy and diacontent. B«t the advantages rcsitlt&g ffbihthe pann'ty and simplicity of their, desirea, contribute to their/felioity in a more tmmept degi*ee» Those who havo» been unhalipiLy familiarised to all the: varioua refinements of luxury and effeminacy whidD attend the great, and whose deluded imaginat agg^eem them essential to happiness, will hardly believe, ths ki&^Adiaiv wiith^ outjmy other covering but what albjindressedl scal^skin afibidi, with a shelter which cannot doervi the kiameof a house, and a few culiaary and domestic utensils, ^uld forth any pretensions to ^happiness; and yet, if I may be albwed to judge from exter- nal appearances^ the happiness of these people ^ay justly be envied, even by the wealthy of the most refined countries; as their happy ignorance of those extravagant desires and endless pursuit* which agitftte the great luxurious world, excludes every -""" -oeyonfr tnetr present enjoyments Tnefewuess and iinmli^' — i as diPKenw'M Foyage to Hudun't Bay, 'I, .1 m ■Wi 4* city of thdir wants, with the abondanoe of mtens for their supply, and the ease with which they are acquired, renders all Wruioa of propeMy useless. EaCfa amicablv participates the ample blessings of. an extensive country, without rivalling his neigh- bour or interrupting his happiness. This renders all govern- ment and all laws unnecesaarj^ as in such a state there can be . no temptations to dishonesty, fraud, injustice, or violence; iior, indeed, any desires whith may not be gratified with inno- cence. To acqumithe art of dispensing with all imaginary wants, ' apd contenting, ourselves with the real conveniences of life, is one of the noblest exertions of reason, and a most useful acqui- sition, as it elevates the mind^above the vicissitudes of for- tune. Socrates justly observes, that those who want least, approach nearest to the gods, who want nothing. The simplicity, however, \ which is so apparent in the manners of the IncNans, is not the effect of a,j)biIo9ophical self-denial, but of the ignorance of more refined enjoyments, which, hqwever, produces effects equally happy with those which result from the most austere philosophy ; and their manners present an emblem of the fabled Elysian fields, where mdividuals need not the assistance of each » | other, but yet preserve a constant intercowse of love and friend> v ll ship. ^{i Several modern philosophers, as Rousseau, Lord Monboddo,. and odiers, from observing the innocence and happiness which savage nations enjoy, though ignorant of the liberal arts, have firom thence inferred, that arts and sciences were pr^udicial to civilized society. In this, however, they are egregionsly mis- tafcen. The ills of civilized society have their source in the .unnatural and unequal distribution of property, which is neces- sarily produced by the different degrees of sagacity^ industiy, and frugality in individuals^ transmitted to, and augmented by an ac- cumulating posterity, till the disproportion in the possessions of different individuals becomes enormous, and creates a thousand unnatural distinctaons among mankind, enabling some to squan- der the br^d of thousands in a profusion of satiating' pleasuresj while multKudes are suffering from want, insulted by every spe- cies of subordinate tyranny. Thus the excessive disproportion of wealth renders the poor mi^^erable^ without augmenting the hap- piness of the rich. When this disparity becomes considerable,, then, and not till then, luxury advances with all its attendant pleasures and refipcmentsj which, without communicating an ^ increase of happiness to those who enjoy them, tempt those who have them not to endeavo tir t . *! ' # "T ^i I 4(J M'Keevor's Voyage to Hudsm'tBay. i lent means. Mankind arc; then taught to connect (he idea of hap- piness with those of dress, equipage, affluence, and all the variou* «m..«.n™««*c ™i.:«k lujjury has invented ; thence they become amusements which slaves to a thousand, imagioary wants, which become the source of envy, discontent, (rajid, injustice, perjury, and violence. Thus man becomes the author of moral evil. ■■^' To conclude, I may remark, tha^ every kind of life has its pecu- liar advantages as well as evils. The vices of civilized countries, though more numerous, are less terrible. Artificial wants extend thecircleof our pleasures; luxury in the rich, promotes industry and the arts, and feeds and clothes the labouring poor, who would otherwise starve ; thus we derive advantage not only from the follies but the vices of each other. Whether, therefore, we pass our life in the rustic simplicity and ignorance of au Esquimaux Indian, or in the endless pleasures of reSnemeqts and luxury, we shall arrive at the same end, and, perhaps, with an equal por- tion of happiness, as far, at least, as it depends on external enjoy- ments, abstracting only the miseries of real want and disease. However various the conditions of mankind may be, the distri- bution ofhappiness and misery in life is far from being so une- qual as is generally believed ; good and evil are indiscriminately mingled in the Cup of Being : the monarch in his purple, and the beggar in his rags, are exposed to their respective cares and afflic- tions ; agreeable objects, by possession and familiarity, lose their aptitude and capacity for pleasing, and, in tvetv state of life, hope ends in disappointment, and enjoyment in satiety. August 4th. The ice beginning to loose for a considerable distance arbund the ship, we took in our anchors and made sail J during this day we got several very severe knocks from the ice, in consequence of which we were obliged to keep the pumps going day and night. On the 6th we were again visited by the Esquimaux. Many of the women had their faces tattoed in a very curious manner; one of them, whose entire face was almost completely covered with these marks, had her hair collected into large bobs,, from which hung several bears-claws. Their principal articles of traffic consisted of dogs, whalebone, and bones of the sea-horse dried, and of a beautiful white colour ; a few had small bags, containing mosses, lichens, and a few other cryptogamous plants. The dogs were for the most part white ; some, however, were spotred, and others of a black colour. Their ears are short, and erect, and the whole body is covered with long hair ; their legs and feet resemble very much those of the bear. JOjeyj k Lngt bar k, but mak& ar growlii^ kiad of noise^ Some-^ «», . :V' W ^ ^ M*Ke€vor'» Voyage to Hndson'x Bay. 47 tin)cs they are eaten by the natives ; when the skins arq used as coi^rleti for clothing, or for bordering and seaming their habits* , They are piincipally used, however, bot|«*in this counti^ and in Kamstschatka, for the purpose of drawing their sledges oi'er the frozen snow during the winter season. Four, five, <>f ^slx, as circumstances may require, are comrponly y<)ked to the same sledge, and will readily carry these persons ' with their baggage a journey of fifty English miles a day. On the 8th we got in sight of Cape Diggs, ftit. as observed, 63' 4', long. 78^ 50'. And on the dav following Cape Walsing- ham came in view, bearing S. W. and in lat. 02° 39', lonV. 77° 48. . * August 10th.' Finding it impossible to make further pro- gress through the ice, we made ^ast tb an island of prodigious height and extent, and df a very singular shape. The fore- part, or that to which we anchored, was hollowed out in a semicircular form, And was of sufficient extent to afford shel- ter to the three ships. The back part presented a perpendi- cular cliff; which could not be less than 300 feet high ; the top part presented a surface of about two rniles in circiimfer- ence; in one part raised into rugged fantastic hills, in another depressed into abrupt precipitous valleys. Altogether, this island fornied one of the grandest piles I had-efer witnessed. About six o'clock a party of us agreed to go on shore. We brought with us a very fine lad, a sailor-boy, who played the German-flute inimitably well, and who hAd been on this, as well as many other occasions, a very agreeable source of amusement to us. After labouring very hard forncarly two Jiours, we at length gained the summit of the island, which M^e took possession of in the name of hi* Britannic Majesty. Having laid aside our ice-anchors* axes, staff's, &c. we sat down to a collation of bread and cheese, after which we had some wine. At length the lad began playing his flute, the rich and melodious sounds of which beipg reverberated from the adjacent hills and valleys, gave it an inconceivably grand cnecti The sun still lingered on the verge of the western horizon, appearing, as it were, to rest his « huge disk" on one of the frozen fields of ice. At length, however, after spreading a saflron-cploured 8uff"asion along the huge pile of cjouds which now assembled on all sides, like « misfortunes and disasters around a iinking empir©/and falling monarch," he gently closed the parting day. w And now they change ; a paler shadow ■! rewa "- --W-- — ». .urn ■■■v«a«i»vasao , If"" ^■"8 ««J Dies like 4he dolphin, wliom cach>ue embuci V |i'. M 4 i % *sJ )• • m '^1 48 M*Kenor*» Vcyage to Hudtm't Bay. With a new colour M it gaBpa aivajr. The last, still loveliest, till— 'tis gone— and all is grey. Last Canto ^ ChiUe Harold, p. 16. "A night of uncommpp ^neness succeeded; the moon rose with unclouded splendour^ irradiating with its placid efful- gence the surrounding scenery, and giving it, if possible, a still more interesting ajiipearance. The clearness of the heavens, the serenity of the ^ir, and the soft tranquillity which a))peared to pervade all natuVe, contributed to harmonize the mind, and produce the moi^t calm and pleasing sensations. i On those occasions the soul appears to hare an irresistible ten- dency to rise from the grand and majestic scene to the great Author of all sublimity. About eleven o'clock we retained to the vessel, highly gi-a- tified with our evening's amusements. Just as vre were getting on board a very melancholy event had nearly happened. The poor sailor-boy, to whom we were indebted for a great part of the evening's amusement,^ pnfortunately slipped while getting up the quarter-deck, and Was precipitated into the sea. Ropes and boat-hooks were instantly got, and in a few minutes we had the poor fellow safe on board. On the 12th we made th& north-end of Mansel's Island, situated in lat. ^ 38^' long. 80° 33'. August Idth. Hardly any ice in sight ; going about four knotojo the hour ; the ship continuing very leaky, we were obliged to keep the pumps going day and night. August 20th. About half-past one, A. M. the man at the forecastle shouted out ice ahead. The mate immediately went up to the bow of the vessel, and found we were running ; straight on very heavy ice. Being under a heavy press of sail, and going at the rate of 7l knots in the hour, we were of course much aliirmed ; fortunately^ however, the ship was readily got about, so that, in a short time, we were completely clear. After a short tack we again fell in with ice; about five o'clock, however, A. M., we got into a clear sea. At nine, A. M. goin^ about b\ knots iu the hour ; course S. W. by W. J wind fair. On^the 21st we got into Hudson's Bay, after which we saw no nibre ice. Instead of feasting our eyes with the grand and impressiye scenery which we had so long enjoyed, wie had to ^encounter three Cdays of almost incessant squiuls, sleet, rain, ud a most boist^oas sea. On the 24th it blew a tremendous gale of wind : danger considerably aggravated by. our having made the land too soont In a short time the whole hod zon was co vered with .lirge foaming billows, which ' I M*K€«vor'» ycyag€fo Hudtrnd Bay. 49 at the diately UDDiog •ess of e were . ip was pletely about a. At S. W, re saw ad aod had to , raw. langer id too d with -"■■, Sw«ird and rag'd and roam'd, To b« exalted with the tiireat'ning clpndi. In a few miootes all was hurry and confusion ; the captain flew himself from one part of the deck to the other with the greatest alertness, to assist' by his own exertions, when fear, or hurry, prevented the sailors from doing their duty. In the uiid- dleof this awful scene I was oaHed on to render professional assistance to Mrs. M'CIain, who was seized with labour-pains. It would be difficult to conceive a motft unpleasant situation than that in which I was nowj)laced. The dread of being driven on a lee-shore, the howlii^ of the wind among the rigging, the awful sound of the pumps, which we were obliged to keep, con- stantly at work ; the cries o|f oiy poor patient, who was now suf- fering the most intense pain which human nature cao suffer, all combined with the horribly depressing effects of sea-sickness, contributed- to render this the most frightful night I had ever wit- nessed. \ ■'■ About twelve o'clock, P. M., in consequence of dreadful shouting, I went npon deck, and found every one in the greatest consternation and terror; it appeared we bad got in among shoals, and that we had now not more than four fathom water ; in a short time, however, we got Into ten fathom, when we cast two anchors. On these depended all our safety j if they gave way nothing would have saved us from being driven on shore, when we must inevitably have perished ; fortunately, however, they held fast. .About ten o'clock, A. M., Mrs. M'Clain was, to the great joy «f all oh board, safely delivered of a daughter^ At twelve o'clpck the weather began to clear up, and, with the excep- tion of a few showers, was fine all day. A brighter atmosphere how permitted us to get sight of the land, from which we weje distant about ten milSs. Seii^ thlckly^^tud^edhwitfa pine, pcylai^ m^ Vk-- VoTAGBS and Travbls, iVb. 2. r«ii //. # G f ■ii n n\ V i y^M told, of d, as they are uilt entirely of he other. After sed. As I was made towards |y op, obsetved give some ac- 50 \ M*Ke€wf$ Vayagt to ffudtan*$ Bay, iiiper,N|rhile the tide ripplec) on in tiny waves towards the white itnd pebbled beach; After ascending a platfurni, wliich projected oftt fpr a considerable distance, we were welcomed in a most polite manner, by Mr. Aid, the governor. Until you come to the governor's hoiise, nothing is to he seen but a few out-houses, some for storin)|^rs, others for boat- builders. The governor's house is about ICfO yards in breadth, and thirty feet high, consist- ing of two stories, not unlike an extensive farm-h ms.\ Before it, there is a high cidse raiHug, for the purpose, keepkig off" the Indians when they get intoxfcat then not only troublesome but dangerous. It is wood cut into square logs, a|i4 hid one on trip of paifttaking of some refreshmeius, a walk waik pr mojBt anxious to get a glimpte' of the natives, that iNirt of the shore where I had, on^ourwi some Of their wigwams. Qf theW I shall i>ow count. The North-American Indians af-e, W the mos^ part, tall, large boned, and long visaged, With very oi^mincnt features. The- «ye is penetrating, and of a deep black "6dlpiir. The nose promi- ilent, of an aquiline shape, not at yil flattened. The forehead is short and straight. Chin rounaed, and'^jarojecting slightly, JMouth lar^e, but lips not at all inverted. Haip^bnifbrmly of ar shining bladt, straight and coarse, having no disposition what- ever to curl.\ On the entire when view^ in prd01e, tlie parts appear more ideeply and distinctly marfied out than in the Esqoi- ihaux. TiWlciar is not placed so far back on the bead, nor is the glabella, or space ^betwe^n the eyes, ^t all so great as in the last-mentioned tribe. The general expression of counte- nance is glooniy and severe. Some, however, especialfy the young men, have a very cheerful animated look. Though the countenance is, generally /S|)eaking, such as 1 have here repre- sented, there is, bowevt^r, the same variety as we meet with amoijigst Europeans, contrary to the assertion of some who have maintained that all the inhabitants of the new world have pre- ciseljr the saine countenance ; so that having seen one, you might be said tp^bave seen all. They have but little hair on their chin, or upper lip, owing, as in the case of' the Esquimaux, to its being eradicated immediately on its first appearance. The most unfounded reports have been circulated on this subject, by igno- rant, superficial, or prejudiced observers. Some, mdeed, have gone so fkir as to assert that the Americans are destitute of beard altogether, and have represented this as a characteristic peculi- arity of this portion of the human race. The concurring tes- tfaKWy. hpyever, of oil modem accu rate travell ersj provea M. M*Keevor's Voyage to Hudton*i Bay. 51 ckarly that the Americans have naturally beardi, and just as abundant as we find it amongst Europeans ; that it is a very general custom with them, as it has been with several Morgolian and Malay tribes, carefully to eradicate this excrescence ; but that various tribes, in difi^rent parts of the continent, preserve it as other men do. ''..■■- Gmelin found this practice to exist in Africa; " It is not easy," he says, " to find a Zungoone, nor any man of the neigh- bouring tribes, with a beard ; for they extract the hairs as soon they appear, and repeat the process until at last no more are formed." The same circumstance is .reported of the Sumatrans, by Marsden ; of the Miodanao islanders by Jl^orrest ; of the Pellew islanders, by Vvilson; of the inhabitants of New Guinea, by Cartaret ; and of those of Navigators' Isles, l)y Bougainville. I may add tp this evidence, the testimonies of the celebrated navigator Captain Cook ; ar also that of the most scientific traveller of abcient and modern times, the celebrated Hum- boldt. Captain \Cook, speaking of the inhabitants of Nootka Sound, says, "iSome have no beards at all, and others only a thin one on the point of the chin. vThis does not arise from a deficiency of hair\in these parts, but from their plucking it oujt by the roots ; for those wiMi do n^ destroy it, have not only con- siderable beards on\evM^ part of the chin, but also whiskers, or mustaofaios, running from the upper lip to the lower jaw, obliquely downwards." \ Humboldt, ^peiJtlbg of the South Americans, remarks, " The Mexicans, I have observed, particularly those of the Aztee and Otomite races, have \more beard than ever I saw in any other Indiana of South Aiiierica. In the neighbourhood of the capital, almost all th^lndians wear mustaeliios." And again, " I can affirm, that the^^ndians who inhabit the Torrid Zone of South America have generally some beard ; and that the beard increases when they shav^ themselves." The females, or squaws, as they are generally called, differ considerably both in persoii and features from the men. Instead of being tall, robust, and \long-visaged, they are, on the trary, short, small-boned, t^ith the face approachli^ l^ofe to the roundjed form. The colbur of the hair^Jf^thfsame in both i the women, however, pay rnoHr^ att^^iMiftfito its being combed smooth behind, so as toftairfdbse about thei ifrpnt, it is very neatljM^f^d,^ so as to give a forehead. Tl^nyflor the most part, have an inild|iM§,;aii€^weetness in their looks. The common about their shoulders ; in full view of the expression of dress of '52 iL AtKmai*B Voyagt to Hudtm^g Bay. loosely rooDd theif shoolders ; under this a deer-skia jacket, the sleeves of which are distinct from the body, so that the? cari be removed at pleasure. Their small-clothes and shoes are madi of the same materials as the jacket; the lattei-, or moccasicas, as they are termed, are general^ embroidered with dyed por- cupine's quills, in a very neat and elegant manner. Some of them wore a coa« of scarlet, dr green cloth, made after the mili- tary fashion, ^nd ornamented with a profusion of tin, or silver trinkets, giving them a very noble and majestic appearance. The dress of the women difiFers somewhat from that of the mea j the blanker, instead of being thrown loose about the shoulders, is brought close round the forehead, somewhat in form of a hood, and is generally bound round with scarlet, or green tape; they also wear a long loose petticoat, made of aoine wodllen stuff. Ou Sunday, in place of the blanket, they wear a piece of green or scarlet cloth, made into the form of a mantle, and thrown carelessly over the shoulders ;. it is in general very handsomely embroidered with various ribbons, particularly green or yellow; under this they wear a cloth drtss, not unlike a Euro- pean nding-habit. When going abrodd, they wear a black beaver-hat, ornamented with feathers and bands of various- colodred ribbons. On the entire, an Indian woman, in her Sunday- dress, has a very pretty and interesting appearance. Their canoes differ considerably from those of the Esqui- maux, as well in the shape as in the materials of which they are formed. The American canoe is completely open at top and IS made of sections of bark, taken from the birch-tree • tjjese are sewed together with filaments from the roots of the spruce fir-tree, called watupe. They are about thirty feet in length, and about six in breadth at the widest part. The bottom IS rounded, and they have no keel. The frame is formed of slight pieces of light wood, over which is fastened a sheafWnir composed of the light materials already menti«wied. Instead of the double paddle, used by the Esquimaux, they make use of a short piece of wood, about three feet long, m/rrow at the top. and gradually becoming broad towards the extremity; on the whole not unlike the extremity of an English oar cut off. ' The manner in which they construct their tents, or wigwams, is as follows: Being provided with poles of a proper length they fasten two of them across, near the ends, with bands made of ttrch rind ; having done this, they raisfe^ them up. and extend the lower *^— ' ~* — »- — •• i» "« part of each as wide as they propose to make the area of the tent; other poles, of an equal heijrht «re then set round at equal dis tances f rom each o?her, i^^ : ■ M*K^ewr''» Vo^«ig4 to littdim'* B^y, 53 their lower ends form a complete circle ; over tfaeentlve U spread the tent-cloth, which is generally made of deer-skins* «lreMed by the natives. A slit is made ia the bottom part, wbi«b serves the purpose of a door; it is alvray« pieced opposite to that point from which the wind blows. These tents have neither window nor chimney; there is merely an aperture left in jhi^middle or the roof, which serves the double purpose of letting out the smoke, and admitting the light. This humble wigwam constitutes the entife ^ a North- American Indian's residence, serving him as kitchen, parlour, bed-room, &c. In ooe part, tlieir culinary and domestic uten- sils are arranged; in another^ their beds, which (ire rolled up during the day, and covered with a large bufl^loAshin ; and in another the materials for their work. Among Itheir cuKnary utensils is what they term a skippertogan, or sm^il bag, which contains a flint, steel, and touchwood. Some of these bags are uncommonly handsome, being richly ornamented with beads, porcupine-quills, and ermine. The perogan, or tinder, the Indians make use of, is a kind of fungus that grows «n the outside of the birch-tree. There are two kind^, one hard, and not unKke rhubarb; the other soft and smooth. The latter is prepared for use by laying it on hot ashes, and then . reducing it to a state of fine powder. The hard kind b very easily ignited, catching even the smallest spark that falls from the steel ; once on fire, it is very difficult to extinguish it ; the spark appears to spflad and burrow through the entire mass in all directions, so that, though to all appearance it is quite extin- guished, combustion is all the time going on internally ; hence the use of it is attended with considcftftble risk* I have had pieces of it in my pocket quite free, as I conceived, from com- bustion ; on putting in my hand, however, I have frequently found the entire reduced almost to a cinder. In the interior, where they have no opportunity of getting a flint and steel, they procure fire by rubbing two smooth pieces of wood rapidly against each- other. ' r ^ o K«.s A ""r'L.®*^ '•^*!"« leather I. as followi : A lather la made of the brains and soma of th« soft fkt or marrow of the animal commonly called the ^ -^k" I '". **"• l*** !"".'• "«" •»■''•*•. *•'«'• «t » »«•««» ont, and not only JK / **■* ''•!1*"^ "i?"' t"*.''""f "P '" •••« •»»''• *■»' ■«•'»« ii^y i it " then taken dowq, and is well soaked and washed in warm water till the knim of 1^ skinisperfecUyopen, and it has imbibed a snfllcient qnantity of water- afl^r which It istaken oat, and wrunf as drjr as possible, and thm dried by the beat of a slow fire, care being taken to mb and stretch it as loM as any moisture wmdns in the Am , afterwards they are seraped to make the^ quite smooth.- m e HBa o iis Voffo fttif Cop ptrnumf K t¥f T.— iteinf drf satd In iril ^ey^atwam^ grow harder after being wet, unless great care be tiliin to'heep mbbiWthemaM the time they are drymg. i- b •« U' w 54 M*K«nor'$ Voyagt to Hudosn** Bay. m \ Those sitaated about the factory boil their victuals in tin or copper vessels, which they procure in exchange for furs. Those at a distance from it are, howfver, obliged to substitute ves- sels made of the bark of the birch-tree, sewed together with some vegetable fibre. As they will not bear exposue to the fire sufficient to bring water to a boiling temperature, they are obliged to have recourse to the following contrivance ; they take some large stones, and place them in the centre of the fire until they are red-hot; they then take them out, and plunge them into the birch-rind vessel. By continuing this process for somd time, the water is soon brought to a state of ebullition. The food, hfpwever, when dressed in this way is generally mixed with sand, or small particles of gravel. The care of their tents is consigned entirely to the women ; as IS, mdeed, all the dnidgery of an Indian life. They are obliged, while travelling, to pitch, their tents, dress their vic- tuals, make and repair every article of dress. In short, the moment she becomes a Wife she loses her liberty, and is an obsequious slave to her husband, who takes good care never to lose sight of his prerogative. Wherever he goes she must follow, and durst not venture to incense him by a refusal, knowing that if she neglects him, extreme punishment, if not death, ensues. Notwithstanding all this, they are generally found humble and faithful servants,* tender and affectionate wives, food and indulgent parents. 1 have frequently gone into their tents, and have sat ior hours delighted and amused with their modest unassuming manners, and simple habits of humble industry. On goio^ in, they always offered me some dned buffalo-tongue, or perhaps some pimmicum,t an article ii: * In every part of the world, one of the ino»t general characteristics of^h« ravage is to despise and degrade the female sex. Among most of the tribes iq ^.i?^* i -r***"..^'."*""**" peculiarly grievous, that servitude is a name too rai d to describe Uicir wretched stale ; a wife is no bciicr than a beast of burden. Willie the man passes his days in idleness or amusement, the woman is con- demned to incessint toil. Tasks are imposed upon her without mercy, and services are recced wiUiMt complacence or gratitude. There are somedu. tncu in Aneil^ where this state of degradation has been so severely felt that mothere have deMroved their female infanu to deliver them at one* ^om a ute in which they wen doomed to such a miserable slavery.-&e Maltiius on rOfmlatwHt 1 T The proviaion called pimmiciim is prepared in the following manner. The l«an parts of the flesh of the larger animals are cut in thin slices, and arc placed Ota a wooden g^te over a slow lire, or exposed to the tun, and sometimes to the froat By these pperations it is dried, and in that state is pounded between twostones soasto redaceitto afine powder ; it is then made Into cakes, whieU - -.. will Mep for almo sta ny length of time. - — -— — ■ —- ^ •n M*Ke«vor's Voyage to Hudton's Bay. 59 of diet on which they priacipally subsist dariug their journeys into the interior. The character I have here given applies principally to the northern Indian women, as the Southern Indian females are, I have been informed,, a most profligate abandoned set. hike eviery other class of people, however, there are exceptions. Amongst them, Mr. Heame, in his interesting work, gives the following very remarkable one : — ^ Mary, the daughter of Moses Norton, a. native of the country, andibr many years chief at Prince of Wales's Foft, , in Hudson's Bay, though l)orn and brought up in a country of all others the least favourable to virtue and to virtuous princi- ples, possessed these and every other gdbd and amiable <|ua- lity in themott eminent degree. Without the assistance of religion. Jamlfith no education but what she received among ' the disMUHI^tives of her country, she would have shone with {iirplrror lustre in any comtq^unity ; for if an engaging person, gentle manners, an easy freedom, arising from a con- sciousness of innocence ; an amiable modesty, and an unrivalled delicacy of sentiment, are graces and virtues which render a woman lovely, none ever had greater pretensions to esteem and regard ; while her benevolence, humanity, and icnipu- lous adherence to truth, would have done honour to the most ' enlightened and devout christian. ^Dutiful, obediient, and af- fectionate to her parents, steady and faithful to her friends, grateful and humble to her benefactors ; easily forgiving and forgetting injuries, careful not to offend anyf and courteous and kind to all ; she Was neverthelesif suffered to perish by the rigours of cold and hunger, amidst her own relations, at a time when the griping hand of famine was by no means severely felt by any other member of their company ; and it may truly be said, that she fell a martyr to the principles of virtue. This happened in the winter of the year 1782, after the French had destroyed Prince of Wales's Fort, at which time she was in the22d year of her age. Human nature shudders at the bare recital of such brutality, and reason shrinks from the task of accounting for the decrees of Provi- dence on such occasions as this ; but they are the strongest assurances' of a future state» so infinitely superior to the pre- sent, that the enjoyment of every pleasure in this world, by the most worthless and abandoned wretch, or the m»st inno- cent and virtuous woman, perishing by the most excrnctating of all deaths, are matters equally indifferent ; bat— • I '■ i'eice to lEv nterand ttm vimoin iBtinr~~ Of ber who liv'd in peace with all mankind ; •'■'1 ft tf6 ->^ iSif-i 'iJlfa^ M*Ketar^9 Vcyage to Hudton'M Buj/. >i>^s. ■ ^''*' ^ heart, nokoowiog «f disgiiiM {' ,Tralh in her tfaoaghte, and candour in her eyes ; Stranger alike to enry and to pride, Good Ben«elier lifrht, and natnre ail her nide : But new re|iiov*d frto^an the ills of life« U«re retta the pleaaiog friicud and faithrvi wife ! WAtlKH. The Bpe^d and facility with which the lodlan women pass through the most intefesting period pf female suffering, has long been a matter of observation and of surprise. A very remarlfable instance of this occurred during my stay at York Fort, which I shall here take the liberty to mention. Mrs. B., an Indian lady, wife of onie of the inland governors, was oowipied the entire day abojat her tent. I entered her tent at thre^ o'clock in the afternoon j she was then preparing dinner, whi^h consisted of boiled venison, venison-soup, and English bwojljit; she was at that time quite cheerful, and in remark- ably good spirits. About six o'clock in the evening she was seized with labour-pains, \yhen she retired to an apartment in the governor's house, in company with an elderly Indian wo- man i about half-fiast six she was delivered of a fine boy j and a little after sev^ of the same evening, I saw her walking about the factory. The yqiing infant immediately born was washed with o^-wttter, and aferwards wrapped up in a young beaver-slHn and placed in its cradle, which is made as follows: they, take a plain piece of board, about three feet u>ag and one and a half in breadth ; to either side of this they make fast a portion of cloth or ticking, whicji they procure from the Europeans; this they adorn with beads ^nd quill- work, in a very tasty and beautiful manner. Under this outer covering, which is mad9 to laceiip to the front, they place a fine English blanket, folded in a circular form, and inside of this th^y place a layer of vety fine mosff, for the purpose of absorb- mg the discharges of the child ; whdn soiled it is immediately ' renewed. To each corner of the flat piece of board a string is attached, which termiiifites in a Ipop j by these they are sus- pended from the side of the tent, so as not to prevent them attending to their work, l^o one end of the board' a broad worsted belt is made fast j when travelling this is passed round the forehead, yhUe the cradle hangs behind. The face of the child is all that is seen, the arms and feet being confined under the cloths and bandages which are wrapped round it. In •umooer a piece of gauze is thrown ewer the young savage, to keep off the musquitos, which are at this season veiy trouble- some. Shortly after the child was born it was given the breast ; J could not ^ jp ad mirin f i p t h e t en der and a fl T f^st iaBate looks^ . ,~ M*KeiBi}of[s Fi)yag& to Hudson's Buy, • " 57 Ibis fond mother ^ve her Httle bab6 while she Vrfts giving it this tiOtfnshment, or, as thejr very beftutlfljlly eipfess it tootooshonarto, the sap of the haftm breast. .The day foHow- ing that of which I have becta 8peakii}g, Mrs. B. and her hus- pand s^-t out on a journey of two hundred miles. ■ • iJ"?".?' ^" hisaccdunt of the North Ameriean Indians, relates the following anecdote t « About an hour before aun-set, on the • p"^*",°«7»j^^ stopped at a small creek, which was too deep to be forded, and whilst the Indian wad assisting me In ni«k- ing a raft to cross over, rather than swinil through in such cold' weather against a, strong current, I looked round and misserf nis-wifej I was fathet displeased, as the sun was near setting, and 1 wai anxious to gain the opposite shore to encamp before i : I a^Ked^he Indian where his wife was gone : he smiled, and told me,^ supposed into the woods to set a collar for a partridge. In about an hour she retuvned with a iievv-born ' inftnt m het afms, and coming up to me said, in Chipneway, Oway SagonnasTi Pavshlk Skomagonisb,» or, here Ehglish- man to aysoung warrior.^' Mr. Heartje informs us, that wheii a norlheni Indiaii woman is taken in labour, h small tent is ' erected for her, a^ saoh a distance fi»m the other tents that her cries canndt easily be heard, and th^ other women and yOung giMs are her constant attendants. No male, except ohltdreu in arms, trt ever allowed to approach her! It is a circumstanc^ girbapa, t(J be lamepted, that these ppdple never attempt to as- sist each other on these occasions, even in thfe most critical cases. Thw is in some measure owing to delicacy, but' more probably to ah opinion they entertain, that nature is abundantly sufficient to perform every thing required without any externarv helps Whatever. Mr. Heartie tells us, that when he informed ^ them of the assistance which European -^omen deriffe from the skill and attention of practitioners in midwlfei^; they treated It With the nttdost contempt, ironically Observing, «* that the inaiiy Imm|ii.backs, bandy-legs, and other deforft^fties, so trequeut among the English, \vereutidoubtedly owing (o the great dkill of the persons who assisted In bringing thefli1n< frequently pa*, a itick boriMntally along ttie aX mea. for Ute porpMe of excitinc uterine contraction. If tniTellin/ihev olu* tlM child on ilieir back* and icuibie their Journey. *«▼•»»«>». «hey P»ce t Bee'AtUcie Mao, Bee«*a CyclbpcdU. '< i ■,..( ' }ng many dens tbac ly suckle hue it for id conge- al reason i time fit led uursr iduloos.f i writers ! is niach se narra- 26/ it is f[ breasts , and lie bangallas lat purses en tot fe> ^hat will is of this e t>«ndu- e women itbgow, ions," p. I tnivayl- louttbeir 8, would lit taking ^th, were an mer- wrooght ifie such compHshed ind a aiciit ( tMaMo- , ihieir place M*Keevat'» Voyage to Hudson's Bay. to ' The Indian WQm6n are remarkably attached to their young charge,* watching over theifi with the greatest affection and tenderness; and, should they die, lamenting their loss in the most affecting manner. Even for several months after their decease they visit their little graves, and shed over them some very bitter tears. From their infant state they endeavour to promote an independent spirit in their offspring: they are never known either to beat or scold them, lest the martial disposition which is t9 adorn their future life and character should be weakened.' On till occasions they avoid every thine compulsive, that the freedom with which they wish them to act may not be ^ntrouled. They instruct them in lessons of patience an^ fortitude, and endeavour to inspire tb^in with courajje in wa^, and acgntemptof danger and deiathj above ^U thines, they endeavour, to instil into their minds an here- *[itary hatred and implacable thirst of revenge towards the uimaux. ' 'he Nor^i American Indians, in general, have five or six e«. Indeed, this is frequently the only mark of distinction igst tbem, that man being most respected who .is best able ^ PPpr^ the greatest number of women. Thus Matounabee, an InltHan chief, who conducted Mr. Hearne up Coppermine River, ^ eight of them. Their names are generally taken from soMe part or property of a beaver, marten, or other ani- mal. When they wish to take a wife, and that they find one to their mind, the Indian applies to the father of the girl, and asks his consent in the following words : « Noeey, Cunner kee darmissey iee damis^ nee zargay* wi ami to sui r v*i.^t?'!?°^*L'°"'"*«®^ *" «««"«<» <>nrin« Mr. (Elltt's retidence at t„tK.«?l5;u J.7« •"'■l'.J"o«J»«*'>« H«y"'« Riverl when ihey had got to the middle of It, one of them, which wat made of the. bark of a bircb-tree sank, ID wbieh waa an Indian, faU wife, and child. The oUier canoe beins amall, radincapable of receiving more than one of the parent! and tfie child, prodoccd a vcTv eitraonKnary contert between tlie man and his wift. rtot £III.1V.^*?J*^?'*1" T*'? '""'"* *" •••'»** thenuelveB to save the other: uijoS?'' """'"''*'' '"y *" determining which wonid be the greatest tots to the chUd. 1 be man used many argoments to prove it more reaMinable that he should be drowned Uian the woman. Bat she alleged, on thr'contrary. it wat more for the advantage of the cUld that she sbmild perish, becanse he, as a man. wat better able to bnat, and consequently to provide for It. The litUe lime there wat stiU remaining wat spent in mntUal fapnettions of tenderaett, the woman ttroocly recommendiniL at for die last time, to her husband, the care of her child. TTiis being done, they took leave in the water.; the woman quitting the canoe wat drowned, and the man with the child got lafe ashore, and ii now taken much notice of by tl(C people thereabouts. • See BUii't Voyye to Hatfaoa^ Boy, p. 88. < IV ,„ * . eo M\Keaior't Voyage to Hvdson'9 Bay. gar kakaygo o waterwarwardoossin cawtveen peccan weeley ganunat ottertassey memerjis mee tnpr." " Father, I love vour daughter j wJU you give her to me that the smaljjt roots of her heart may entaiigle vvifch mine, «o that the strongest wind that blows shall never separate them." If the father approves, an interview is appoiated, for which the lover prepares by a perspiration j he then comics into her pre- sence, sits down on the ground and smokes his pip6 j dpring the time of smoking he continues%browing small pieces of wood of about an inch in length at her, one by one, to the n\]mber of'a hundred. As many as she can catch in a batk bowl, so many presents her lover must make to her father, which the latter considers aa payment for his daughter. The young warrior then gives a feast, to which he invites all the family. When the fe^st is done, they sing and dance to their war-aong;i. ^ The merriment being over, and mutual presents exchanged between the lover and her relations, the father coVers them tvith a beaver robe, and gives them, likewise, a gun and birch '^anoc, with which tb^ ceremony ends, ] Conjuring is a very common practice among them* and is frequently had recourse to for the purpose of procuring re- spect and distinction. As the conjurors are the onJly persons applied to in bodily ailments, their deceptions practices are Mso resorted to for the purpose of spreading their pr«^t^sional fame. Frequently they get themselves bound up in the fol- lowing manner : Being stripped quite nakedy cords are passed round each finger, and then over the entire hand, tfo as to de- prive them altogether of the power of moving these parts ; they are then fastened behind their tracks; a large baffak> skin is now thrown over them, and is tied round with ropes, beginning from above downwards. The l^s are secured in a similar manner, «e that, they are deprived of the least power of motion. Bound op in this manner they are put into a tent alonej after extricating themselves they cOme out, and tell the by-standers ejtuUjngly, that it was the Great Spirit that assisted them in getting IVee. When a relation or friend to whom they are particnhriy attached is, as they suppose, in extreme dan- ger, ibey mak« use of the most absurd supcwtitio^a practices, such as pretending to swallow kniVes, chisels, hatchete, &c. This h done (torn a superstitious notion, that they wiU be able, by thew n»eans, to api^ease the " old scythe-man," and thua juocure a respite for their patient. When these extraordinary practices axe had recourse to, the patient is placed in the mid- jdle of a small square tent, and in a short time is followed by -t J WKeevor's Fcyage to Hudson't Bay. 61 tlie coQJurort who is stripped quite naked. la very hopeless cases they call for consultation ; in this case the assistants. sJso enter quite nalced. Having closed the door of the tent very Accoratel/, they tJiien arrange themselves about the unfortupate pafieitt, and begin to suck and blow at the parts affected,* and in a short tiine to siog and talk, as if conversing with familiar spirits, which they pretend appear to them in the shape of different animals. After a long ccmferemre with those invisible agents, they then call for the iestrumeQt which they are to swallow. They very prudently have a long string attached to tliis knife, bayonet, or whatever else it may be, for the purpose of drawingit up agaiop Aner having practised this deception several tiroes, they again commence aucking the paw affected. After this the suratiug piQcess is Gommeaced ; for this purpose the tent is closed as accurately as possiU»^n all sides. Red-hot stones |gre then throw«i hito a veisetof ^ater, and in a short time the tphole tent IS filled with^^st^m, which acting on thc'surfaocof the skin,^V produceajr^opious sweat. This being continued until a feeli>Ts of weakness is iodiiced, the cUre is then said to be completed ; and certainly it must be allowed, especially where the compUint IS of a rheumatic description, that this is not unfreqliently the case. Mr. Hearne, in the interesting work already so often alluded to, gives the following very curious instances of which he was himself an eye-witness. ** At the lime when the forty and odd tents of i Indians joined us, one man was so dangerouly ill that It was thought necessary the conjurors shduld use some of ^eir wonderful experiments for his recovery ; one of them, therefore, immediately consieDted to swallow a broad bayonet. Accordingly ^ Qonjuring-house waa erectpd, into which the patient was conveyed, and he was soon folloped by the coiyu- ror, who, after a long preparatory discourse/ and the necessary oonfefence with, the familiar spirits, advanced to tjie door and asked for the bai^onet, which was then ready prepared by having a string fastened to it, and a 8lk)rt piece of wood tied to the other end of the string to prevent his swallowing it. Though I am « For Bpme inward comi^Dts. imsh m xripW i« tbe i«t«s«n«i, &«„ {t it very comniQii to tw tjww lagri«n Wavrlng inln thelrectam until their eyei are almost ■tartini^ oat of their bead. The acenmniation »f io lai|re a «i«andty t^wiad is, at time«i, apt to oeca*io« tome extraordiBar]* ei MtioM, whiok an aqt easily anp. prMsed hy a sick person ; aad, u, there ia ao t< ptfar it birt tbe ci«aiMel4hroi which It was conveyed thither, it soQetiafief oc easions an odd se«i« behVeeii doctor and hi< patient, which I once wantonly caHed an engaMttieAt ■: hati which I was aa«rwardso«reedingly sorry, as it highly oSkiOeA sewrltl of Indiins, paiiici4MU t^jnggkr «nd swk v^m.^-fHeorwe't Frattcm c«j '• Jf 1^' h 1J! .1 } 1 1 1^ €2 M'Keevor's Voyage t0^udsm'» Say. not so criedalous," continues Mr. Hearne, ** as to U$Iievf, that the conjuror absolutely swallowed the bayonet, yet f must ac- knomrledge that, in the twinkling . of an eye, he conveyed It to ——God knows where; and the small piece of wood, or one exactly like it, was confined close to his teeth. ' He then paraded backward and forward before the conjuridg-house for a short time, whed^ he feigtufd to be greatly disordered in his stomach and bowels ; and, after making many , wry faces and groaning most hideously, he put his body into sevi^ral distort^ attitudes very suitable to the occasion. He then returned to the door of the conjuring- house, and, after, making strong eflbrts to vomit, by the help of the string he, at length, Mnd after tugj^ng at it for some time, produced tne bayonet,. which apparently he hauled out of his mouth, to the no small surprise of all present. He then looked round Mrith :an, air of exultation, and strutted into the conjuring-house, where he renewed his incantations, and con- tinued them without intermission for twenty-four houcs." The other instance which Mr. Hearne mentions, b that of a poor paralytic Indian, who had been in a most deplorable condition for a length of time. « That nothing," remarks Mr. Hearne, " might be wantiog towards his recovery, the same roan who deceived me in swallowing a bayonet in the summer, now offered to swallow a large )>iece of board, about the size of a barrel>stave, in order to effect his recovery. The piece of board was prppsr^d by another man, and |)ainted according to the directiona m the juggler, with a,rude representation of some beast of prey onone side ; and on the reverse was painted, according to their rade me- thod, a resemblance of the sky. After holding the necessary con- ference with the invisible spirits, he asked if I was present, for he had heard of my saying that I did not see him swallow the bayonet fair ; and, on being answered in theaffirm^ve, he de- sired me to Come nearer ; on which the Indians made a lane for me to pass, and I advanced elose to him, and found him standing at the coujuring-house door as naked as when born. AVhen the jneqe of boar^^ was delivered to hint he proposed at first only to shov^ one-third of it down his throat, and then walk round the company; afterwards to shove down another tbtrd,and so proceed till hie had swallowed the whole, except a small piece of the end, which Vas to be left behind ix>r the purpose of hauling it up again; When he put it to his mouth it apparently slipped down his throat like lightning, and only left about three inches sticking without his lips ; after walking backwards and forwards three times, he hauled it up again, and ran into the conjuring-house with great precipitation. This he did, ta all appearance, with great M'Keevor's Voyage to Hudson's Bay. 6» ease and •oraposure, Ind, notwithstanding I wak all attention on the occasion, I couU not detect the deceit : and as to the rea^ lity of Its being a piece of wood that he pretended to swallow, there is not the last ceason to doubt, for I had it in my hand both before and immediate];^ after the ceremony." ^Matonabee, an Indian chief, who was then present, assured Mr. Hearne that he had seen a man, who was then in company, swallow a child's cradle with as much ease as he could fold up a piece of paper, and put it into his mouth ; and that when he haul- ed it up again, not the mark of a tooth, or of any violence, was discovered about it. It if really extremely difficult, and oftentimes altogether impossible /m tlw ii^ettod «riiidl tt)« tXtd laid oh tiir «ltildr«ii df larjad I*, arail tbma. <* Ym lUH not raaitd tiie OArnen ot fMt hmir n^ittaw ■h^lmm ia^r thecotaers of fl^ beard. Yo« shall uot BMake am eattim ia yonr fleah for Uie dead, nor print any Harks opon you."* And again, " Ye ar^ tfe« eUidrea c»rtlie Lord your Obd ; yod i|Mll ntftcot ymrtA^tt, b^T iaak« tat$ balddess iMtween jrour eyea for lie dead."f /■ ' *' Leiritkut.e.zix. t. tt. t Deut. e. idv. V. I. M^Keecor't. Voyage to tiudm't Bay. §5 down the top of the finger. I recollect Mr. Swdne, one of the inland governor^, luentloniug to me that a l^ogee womau came to bis house last winter. Observing that she bad several joints of her fingers cut off, he enquired of her the cause j when she immediately bqrst into tears, and told him, that for eacli of those ioiiits she >ad lost a relative, his probable, ijiat these horrible practices are resorted to under the impres* sion that the malignant powers dej^ht in groans and m»ery» and that they are uot to be api '*'^*^ ... . . . ■» When about to depart this fate with firmness and resign, especially when advanced Tw. summons. ** It is better," said than standing; to be asleep it by human blood. leet their approaching ' infrequenlly, indeed, ^ nipf for the expected , . udian, " to be seated itwake: to be dead than ahve. After putting on their best clothes, the family is called around, and addressed in a firm manly tone, exhorting them to lead |)eaceable industrious lives ; to be obliging and friendly towards the Europeans; and if they bear any revenge to- wards another tribe, they are exhorted to carry it to the last. He endures bis tortures with the greatest composure ; tell* them he' is going to the land of spirits, that blissful abode where he will have jilenty of fowling and fishing ; and desirea them to bury with him his gun, shot-pouch, kettle, as also his skippertoggan, containing his flint, steel, and touchwood. All this IS fauhfully com|>Jied with. If, however, they should at any time stand much ip need of any of these articles, as a gun, for instance, they very often take it from their graves^ and leave in its place a |ong pole. l^e* With regard to their religious sentiments, ther^Obelievc but little difference. They all believe in a great ge^ Being, and in a great bad one. / lliey generally pray to the bad one that he may not injui*e them ; to the good one they think it unnecessary to pray, as they are confident he will not injure • One cnstom they have, which it very extraonlinary^ When their pa* rents grow lo old as to t»e incapable of aiipporiin^ Uienuelves by tlieir own labour, they require their chUdren to sfrangle them, and Uiis is esteemed an act of obedience in them to peribrm. The manner of discharging this laot dnty is thos^i 4h« graxe of the old penon being dng, he goes into it; and, after havmg conversed, and smoked a pipe, or perhaps drank a diam or two with his childrep, the old pepou signifies that he is ready ; npon which two of the children put a tlioug ftbwrt his neck, one standing on one side, and the other opposite to him, and pall violently till be is strangled, then cover liirti with earth, and over that they; e^ect a kind of rongli inomiment of stones. Such persons as have no children, rcqae^t this office from their friends ; though In Ihis4a8t case it is not always cobiplied wii|i.— $<•« Ellis's Voffoge to Hudsst upowtbe blank e tt i— &< Etu*?* Voyagt t»^Hudson't Baf, p. 81.^— ^— -^ — ^.^r^^ Jt^Ktevot's Voyage to Hudson'* Bay. ef At this time they subsist priu^capally on salted geese, dried tongues, and pimmicum. Whe&i the weather is more mode- rate, however, they hunt the rein-deer, which they often meet m vast herds, seekmg the extreme cold. Frequently, thev merely take out t^e tongues, leaving the rest of the Jidy tJ putnfy,or be devoured by wild beasts. At times, Cwever. such IS the extreme scarcity of food, that they are obliged to have recourse to the most Olthy and disgusting practices for the purpose of sustaininftlife. Many arl obliged to strip the r^L!\TJ^ peltry whi^ they are bringing to the dirferent . factories, an^ subsist on the skins. Others procure a scanty nourishment from the deer-skins, with which their shoes and ;S li P^i?,''^^^^""?''^*'*''^ ^^'•'"^^i *"^>^t times, such is the dreadful want of provisions, that they are compelled to resort to the horrid and revoltfhgr prdctice of cannibalism. Mr. Swaine mentioned to mean instance which occurred the preceding winter, of a. southern Indian woman, who was in * K u*i''u"'® ''''"'^' '*"'' «^« <*"& "P one of her own relatives, who had been sometime buried, and fed for several days on this shocking repast. ' Mr. Ellik tells -us « that an Indian, who with bis family was coming down to trade from a place very far distant, had he misfortune to meet with but little game by the way j so Ia'J'a f^T V"^ Jl'""^'^' ^'^ ^'f^* «"d h» children, were reduced to the last distress. In these circumstances, they plucked the fur from their clothes, and preserved life ai loni as they were able, by feeding on the skins which they worel but even this wretched resource soon failed them: and then, what IS terrible to conceive, aud horrible to rojate, these pooJ creatures sustained themselves by feeding. <^two of their children. Mr. Hearne in p. 85 of his interesting work, makes men- V^^r°^ 't^ following instance: "In the spring of the year 1775, when I was building Cumberland-house, an Indian Whose name was Wappoos, came to the settlement at a time when fifteen tents of Indians were* on the plantations; they examined him verv minutely, and found he had come a con- siderable way by himself, without a gun or ammunition. This ma.de many of them conjecture he had met with and killed some person by the way ; and this was the more easily cre- dited, trom the care he took to conceal a bag of provisions which he had brought with him, in a lofty pine-tree near the house. Being a stranger,.! invited him in, thoug h 1 — y h^ u "°^^°8: Tor trade ; and, during that Tntm^w^^ the Indian women examined his bag, and gave it as their opi- nion that the meat it contained was human flesh; in conse- T' I* It ¥ m €-, I; ?i .)ii t=l!\ 1 ' I- 68 M'Keevor'h Voyage ta ffndson's Bay. f|ucnce, it was not Avithout the interference of some principal ndians, whose liberality of sentiment was more 'd^tcnsivc than in the others, that the poor creature's life was saved. Many of the men cleaned and loaded their guns, others had their bow« and arrows reiidy; and e\'en the women took possession of the hatchets to kill this poor inoffensive creature, f(u- no crime but that of travelling about 200 miles by himself, un- assisted,|)y fire-arms fdt his support on hid journey." It is iisserted that the southern Indians, if once they arc driven to this unnatural practice, become so fond of it that no person is safe in their company. 'I'hey are, however, de- spised and neglected for ever after. From the instances which I have here related, particularly that by Mr. Hiarnc,.we may conclude that cannibalism has always originated in extreme want, though it may afterwards be continued from other motives. During this frightful season, the whole anii|ial creation in- Btcad of the usual variety which exists during the summer, puts on the *• winter robe of purest white." Even animals which have been brought from this country become, at this period, of » milk-white ciolour. It is ^ difficult matter to say what purposes in the animal ecoilomy this singfu^r change may serve. It once occurred to me, that perhaps a white surface might possess less radiating {wwers, and in this way preserve to the animal body a quantity of caloric, which would otherwise be dissipated by the intense cold of the climate. 1 found, however, that on placing a canister, constructed after Mr. Leslie's directions, and on which I had pasted porticftjs of different coloured skins in the focus of a concave mirror, that there was not the slightest dijfferencc in the effects pro- duced on the differential thermometer. There is, in fact, but little known of a wtisfactory nature on this interesting sub- ject; I shall, tbereftn-e, drop it here, lest, by substituting con- jecture iii the place of more solid information, I niight disgust the sensible reader. Another change is observed to take place in the ^ln\ti\ creation at this time, the wise intentions of which are sufficienrly obvious : the skin of every animal is covered with a finer and longer fur» than they po.ssessed du- • A corretpoodmf exchangr, we find, takri plarr in warm climntes, Tims the tfieep in Africa liaii a eoane hair giibtlitule^ in place of it* wool ; and Ihe do|lot«a lU coat fntin-ly, and has a smooth and sotl skin, fioats abo nnderco 'hlu^ffhutihl^^nlHw!^"^ ^ P*"' °^,|\';»« -«l" «'"'_«^«< «'••» ttiis chanK»-. would hardlj r SChcxrMUt-tn« Caahmrre shawk^ whieb ar« s«l«t ]ttaHii°'^«^«'-, arb said to be the ' most p^nfeful. .American strawberries are called by the Indians ooteagU^inik, from their resemblance to a heart t their flSlour LS 4""*"^'"?^"°'^* *'^'°'^' »° that produced by cul- tivatton. rhe cranberry found here appears to belong to the spe- c^s «amw«;,rf m«roc«rpon. The following are its character : cordta pinfe deeply fbur-clcft : leaves elliptic, oblong entire, si ghtly revolate, obtuse, smooth : stems ascending: flowers late- !«..« T"** P"'P'®.' ^'''"'y '' "°*he" ye"ow, converging, without spurs : the germen is smooth : the berry is pear-shafed, crimson, and of a peculiar favour. We packed a laVge quantity of them -iw!!" •/"!''' "c "'^w*^ *''*'" °" *''* P«"«ge J they made remarks aWy nice p.es. Sir Joseph Banks advises us, in order to have th« species of cranberry, to cultivate it in an artificial bog, with plenty of water. He assures us, that a few square yards of ground occupied m this way, will yield as many cranberries as any family I shall here give an account of the other plants which I U for\nL-!l „I«-tl?^appeitr to belodj^lo the s^cl^kuUx «ipereou9^%ith eight 1)rown /riniHi the ^liltese of N^ 4 Pectinated. Th^y abound/ prJuclklly in?|||>eighb^ioo^ of gMfJhes, Jow grounds, and sttfMkli watel Wherever the/ Ik ^«te»r sting a little tumOu^ Ofi* piistule usuall#ariii. \a^e " sffl^tuitf sting a little tumOuir 0^ pf|?tule |abl6 Hching #^it'LmIs excite* Jl most el aif^li alkali} the application' Sti nil' singularly beaul^fi^;i«M . Itllers, by their almost constant r-m— t during |lie entire nighty some- «% variegated splendour, wRifeh is not rr - - -7^ "vr . .u|l|'tnoon . They generally stretch from , ;!<• iitor%-*^st, arid are much fainter in |||| former jfii iU l^peabnce it resembles electrical l^t when viiJWed^ « yaottumJ They always comtnence like ajjist, on ^^^ "*>li|«Tn pan of t||e horizon, which is then clearer^wards the wekt.kThis fhickjhess of the air commonly arranges^ itself ii|i, the forii|of the se^jnint of a circle. The point of itl^ cir- ti^mfler'ence' that is visible soon acquires a border of a whitish Ji^^ which gradually increases, and from whence prdi^eeds Hbe '6r several lumiifblus arches. At this period the darting of discoloured rays coniiiien(^ds, some fropi thesegm^nt of a circle, -^ aria others from the arbh itsejf ;, by their motion, the space which th«y bearalwajrs seem^ open, a'hdtheii' appearai^ces Increase in ttiotion and. vividness of colour, with a proportionate auginen- tktibn of the whole meteor. > The various coruscations cause an appearance of great jjonfusion, and it occasionally seems to vanish in par^, speedilV re- appearing with increased splendour.* Tl^ey are ft-equently afccompatiied with a rustling or whizzing kihid of noise. This I jhive never heard, but have been informed of the fact by persons vtho have resided many years in tJie country. Many attempts hayd been made to assign the immediate cause iof this phenomenon. Ever since the identity of lighthry|..and of the electric matter, has been ascertained*, philosop^^S&ive been naturally led to l6ok for the explication of aerial idlllp in the principles of electri||. and there is now, I beljfcve,^BKtle doubt that most of tlnl^btit particularly that oiftldl^PTave * I have frcqi^ently habra thenno)6eter on d«k whilt ,a interne, bpt coald not obcenre that there wai any rievatio dacni. ■** I .^, V asjnoBt b^pro- . ■r • PM Irii I- 49.- 0fl 1 ■^ - 1* » '< • ■^■ MfKeevor's Voyage tQ Hudson's Bay. .73 V been speaking, depends upon tliese principle^. Dr. Hamilton, of this city was, it seenrjs, the fit^t who attempted to discover any positive evidence of the ele'ctrical nature of the aurora ^orealis. The only proof, hbwever, which he acfvahces, is an experuuent of H&wkesbier, by which t.he electrical fluid is slfiown to assume ^ppiearances resembling the aurora borealis, whin it passes tbrough^^ vacuum. He observed, th^t when the air was most perfectly exhausted, the streams of eleetrjca} matter were then ^uite white ; but when a small quantity of air was let in, the light assumed more of a purple colour. The hashing of the Ught, therefore, ifom the dense region of the atmosphere into such as are more rare, and th^ transitipn through mediums of 4iff<2rQnt '4, densities, he considers as t'le caiise of the aurora, and of the diiHerent colours it assumes. Dr. Halley,, and, more lately, Mr. Da)tpn, have advanced many ingenious arguments in favour of the opiqlon that this phenomenon depends on the quantity of magne^i^ fluid existing it^. the atmosphere, the polarity of ipagnets hav- ing been observed to be disturbed during i^s appearance. It has been proved, however, particularly by Perecotte, that this disturbance does not always take place on such, occasions ; and, as the same circumstance H observtj^to happen when the atmosphere is4n a positive state of electricity, the theory itself becbmes highly questionable. Whatever may be the ihime- ,diate cause of this phenomenon, it is evidently connected vtith }iie condensation of vfllpour from the air, as during their appear- ance, there always is observed a copious deposition of dew oj: hoar-frost. Hence, perhaps, this meteor* is so common in those latitudes wl^re lie Vencfilar vapour hangs near to the earth's surface, and when its evaporation and precipitation are slowly taking place. Tto nalos which occasionally surroupd the sun and moon de- serve to be next considered. This appearance occurs only when there is a slight fog in the atmosphere. They rarelv accompany the sun, owing to these v^^ being so readily dissipated by the calorific^nmJd^thaj^jjpmlH^rhM phetiomenqa appears to be occasiopw^'bythil' rays W li|^ striking against a cloud, or body ofropoir, which, althid^gh collsiderably unifdNrm and dense, is still M rare at t(%s aUo^ them to be scattered at tlte point of incident, and which ale thus r^flectjpd ||»drefracM> fnwa evdlry ■ — ^ ' " ' ■ ' 'K ' , ' V " ' Se«t on this labject, Robertaoo^ HittMf of the AtnMipbei««<— Dr. Halley's PMkMophkal TnoMption*, No. S47>. 4062aUrwui'i imnctioiu oi the Royal 49.— PhlloMphicai 0f Electricit;. VoVAOil .8Q.»»CtaniuiD-a ; •actiou, VolA xlviif. Parti vrs»r^ ^. S58.-F^Ujr'» Hiitorjr i VBLS, No. 2, FqI, Ht j «.., M •%fl TP©,^ "N 'A] -1 ^i 1j ^1 iL '\ A 74 M*Keevofs Voyage to Hudson's Bay. |wint aroynd giving the appearance of a luminous circle. An appearancje, not unlike this, may sonpetimes be observed round the lightakin the streets during damp weather; or, by rubbing the eyes also, a^milar appearance may be observed, owing to the refraction jjof the ray» of light as they reach the eyes, by the contents^ df the caranculee ItNiIirymales and glands of the eye- lids, whic^ owing to the pressure, are spread over the surface of the cornea. . V In these remote latitudes the stars are said to twinkle with a neiy redness ; but this I did not observe. The cone; of red light which is Observed to accompany the rising and setting of^the sun, in this ana other northern countries, is probably owing to the great qoantitv ^f vericular vapour with which the lower parts of the tltmctepheije are always K>aded in these climates. „ y VOCABULARY OF THE DIALECTS. I shall here give a few words of Northern and Chippeway Indian langiiagei^ which Iiwrote down during my stay at Fort Yprk, begintiliiglwith that of th? ' OcJchepayyans, or i^rtbern Indians. I km pTiBcipally indebted to Mr. Swaine, on(^the inhind govertiors, to whom I take this opportunity of return- ing many thinks for the kind and politic attention which I received froi) him. whilejit York Fort. I We ■ They . A knife Afo^k A hog A6#e 'A lM>n«e i 'Brtad - A dock A^OOK A swan Gfye me A,^oqat 'A shoe -A few Nithaj Kitha.y WilhaviMv. NithanM. Ye He, or she You and I KUhmvaUf. Witha. Kithanow. Muk a man. Chas chat chip iRuin. Koo koot. \ Ukttstaoo. ij \ Has hat htguin. \ IferakanoU. ~ , SheesUp. ' J Nischow. Ifap a say, Pich astummin. Shutagan. :'j Muikasin. ^Z i i J i J 1 j 1 J i J I J "Siutan. M'Keevor't Voyage to Hudton't Bay. n ... i' Hair A kettle A pot A haod A mau A woman .. A Boiatl canoe A ship A star , ,' Au evil spirit A pipe A piece of istick A ban kerchief A pair of stockings A watch A porcupine A beaver A bu£falo A dog A horse Paint A bow An arrow - A gun A hatchet A trout A sturgeon Feathers ^rope A paddle A deer Awolf A leg ^ OospQBgan. Mistik. Tapaslaggan. Ootassa. Pisumakan. Kaquaw. Amisk. Mistus, " Alim. Mistalam. Oothuman. Achapi. <^"" Akusk. Pas^saggau. , Chikahaggem. Mamakus. Hanutoo. Oopaawaoo. Pinriniquan. « Upowoi. Atik. Managan. Uskat. Hoossit. -^ JVdsasuskalaommaooin . Mislikooit. Apilukahagin. , tViaash. Kithanowweasamak. Kisshamanalou. J^kisouhaggan. Wassanamoiiih. Mistikgahchimmuisoot. Welihakeisk. Luggimaoo. Pikoos.' ^ Mississak. I' Vr 76 A toad A day suir.j'^^i'l. A ni^lit Bun A fox • An ottei" A marten A t|«Slr A white bear^ ink \gc io»,Hudho*Cs Bay. • • ' .. Ptppibsojlalayotii. ..'■"' JCtsihkowapissim «r it squirrel • ,^ . squirrel , ''An owl ._ A partridge V A plover i^ A mouse / Brandy ;i '. Powder A gun A flint A «tt;el t A ramrod The wind Tobacco The nose The mouth The chin „ A tooth " - The ear The ^ye % The cheeks s,:^.Countryman 'Northern lights Thundejr Lightning Snow old Viny cold day ^% Two Three Four Five Six »« Tidliiskowapissim Mdkasfiis. Miisquan! Mahpusli. Shaqvasshoo. Sikus. , Sikak. Mistamusk. Anikoochus. SassakawappiskooS Ohoo. / Pethayjoo. / Pus'scoocht/ssin . Appacoosish. Iscoottfuvahpoi. Kusktftayoo. Pafkissceggan. CMakasahuggan. ^pelh. Cikuchiskkahaganatik . Thutin. Chistharhon. Oocoo. - Oo€on, Was^inityoo. n Oowipil, y Ootauiaki. ^ Ooskishik. « * , ^ OowangMi: •*. 'V* C^ipaak. ^. '.i ^iJhaiho9tick. ■ ^^ Kootta. ', Kishinou. Miskoome.'* Naspithkishaaou. Pittk. Nishoo. \ Nistoo. -J Naoo. / ;Naanin. Ootwasifi. Nisw assik, •*Ja»' :• ^ X ^^ -. ii.'sr i N i ^ M*^£^or'i Voyage io Hudson'^ Bay Eight " *. , ... Nine Ten A lark ., The ground , . 11 A tent A Bhirt . . A lock .. - .. The ami The thigh Good Bad .. 1.. A stone A book, or ahy thing written \ A spy-glass. . . Swasik. Sak. Alitath. Makaifik. Uski. \ Miboapeh. . Pttiayanafagas. AlhuppUsaik, ■mspittooin. Pdtwom- Milhawashirf. . Mat hat fn. > j4»ini. Misanahagan. ' Ootkahpa%chigguh. 11 ^ M AfewfawiUar Phrases in the Ouppeway lAngudge^ A may here reiiiark, that this is one of the moJ;her--toagues ^North America, *nd is usually spoken among the chiefe, wHj^eside About the great lakes, as far south as the Ohio, and 'as nniorth as Hudson's Bay. Hd*r do yqi^o, frieml ? . . In good hi(M^ I thank you What news W » • p*' tfisj 1 have node Have you had a good huni t winter? Yes, a very good hunt What lake did you huiit at Ibstl winter? .. .. / At the Slfftnk lake^ . . . . What is the|« at that lake ? Beaver, but hot much ^| , , ^ . . This is English .. T?.. Let us eat. .< „ .. Itisvery goo4 ..,,,.. Sit down '? .. .. .. I want to smoke a pipe . . Iwirtgo .. 4. That is right .. .. .. Notyrt .. How many beaver-skins will you "t take for this ? . . / Twenty fVay way neejee ? Meegwotch nobum permurlur. Tdrnin mergunxmegal ? Cai ween arwayyor. Nishisghin geosay nogome be- bdne ? Angaymer p hisshishin. Hatvwanee jawaisakiegai geosay f Sheekark saiiegan. * Witygpnin woity ha saicil Atnik cawween gwotch. Maunder saggonash. Hawwissinnimin. Hunjeyta o hishshishin. Mtmtetappy. ^ Nee wee sugger'soy. Nin gamarcna. Neegwoyack. Kaniarcky. Atidersoy appiminiquy keetav penan mor ? Neesk tanner. ■: ,•^1" ML •HfKTBem; Trr^r "7^ .•it Tarpenan neecarhis. 'I 78 ^ M^Keewr'r Voyage to Hudion's Bay, Your health, friend .. .. Kee taltenemanco. I love you ., .. .. Neexargaykeen. I ant well Pemartissy nin. I am dry ^i^- . . . . Sparchlay nin. I am hungry ; Bocketly nin. I am cold Geessennarnin. I am lazy .. .. .. KUHnnin. I will go to bed .. .. Peskemo kin gamar char. Get up, friend Gmishear, neegee. Take coorage, farewell^ friend flaguarmissey, way waynegee. m, 1 /.■■ ^,. >'■ \ • ■ \ •t'\ rf^ . -■-,■■ _ - f- ^ ' ^'. X 1 v \ \ N M. ... ■-'•■- . .'■ . ' ■■■r..mM l;w., ,, / i^-,-.v..■ .-../■' '■<:.'! :V „ :,_ qee. VOYAGE TO THE NORTH POL.E, IN THE FRIGATE THE SYREN E; INCLVDINO A PHYSICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL NOTICE RCLATITE TO THE ISLAND OF ICELAND. BY THS CHEVALIER DE LA POIX DE FREMWyiLLE, tinrriNANT, tmn ov,thr brioadk or tmc mariwb cAom, amd a , MEHBIR or SETKRAL LEARRED SOCIETIEt. w^ lontimt : PRINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS and Co. BBIDB^COURT, BRIDOB-STR8ST. ,^^^^^ „ i I"' •in- m 1 J I' i M 4i •i f' A J: THE CHEVALIEH DE FREMINVILLP TO THE EDITOR. ij*>.- jpm/, June 19, 1819. " AT a time when tht Literati of Europe are wailing with anxiety, the result of the new expedition which the Ilnelish government have sent to explore the pa^Mge to the North Pole, and to resolve the problem whe- ther Greenland be an island; it may be presumed that a brief relation of a fypnge to the North Sea, in 18Q6, performed by some officers of the Frinch marine^ of ivhom I was one, will prove acceptable and interest- ing. This expedition, after encountering a number of difficulties, penetrated to latitude 60°; and it mil be' observed, tj^t the atfjhnpt made by the English last year, could only penetrate thdse seas t<^he latitude ©/"JSO* 32". In tkecourse of our voyage, the various iitifrming incidents that occurred, partigularly at the Island of Iceland, will render thist brief narratiye/mknture t9 affirmt not only worthy of (observation, but highly ifiterestingt " ' ^ Si *ha of th th an Wf ta{ * on pri «^ 'Til ^■fi ^ * * ," > ,;• -^' ^ ■ f 9pe( Pre 1 . '. -^ 'V , ''^::"' ■• # pro] t ->, . "» . : fc ' K » ' '■ I * ■: » 1 i ■ - - I -%' ^ U ■ »^ \iJi VOYAGE / TO THK/ NORTII POLE. 8J\ " '.ty, vhe • sent to n whe- ation of of the nterest' letrated by the of BO" its that iy brief t highlyi ^^ vj'en SmcB the time of Duguay Tro^in, the French government had no turned .ts attention to thfe' North Seas. In the ""urse of the last war, an expedition to these s^ was projected for it P?'P?\e«f «"noyng the whale-fisherrcarrieJon there by InnnnS! ' f"^i",*^''\*"^ destroy the vast fleets that are annually employed by them in this trade. Such a scheme HtL^W^"' "'^'^? much danger; nevertheless, the advan! tages Jvkely^o result from it were great in more relations than ^IV.-'^*^''"^^"^* therefoi;.e^uow resolved to put. the plan id practice; and, in consequence, three frigates were armed. 1 he command of the squadron wa& confided to Captain le gjc, an «xpM|ence4vseaman, who had idready made several Visages m thoAiyperborean Ocean. •'ue several JL resolution wa& taken t(iv collect every possible advantage mn an expedition that shpuld advance aS nea^ as possible to fc»pple, to penetrate into Mas almost hitherto unexplored; Ijy operations were n^to be the Jbly object: the scieuceS ■i iP Tw •'''°?^ '" ^f"" * ^^^"'^ ""^ ^^^ probaSle benehts. Captain . ^ e Due m his instructions, was directed to let slip no onpor! tunity to avail himself of any astronomical|flnd geoeraEl observations and facts that 'might conduf*to thnZove: sTect^f the^NSS'^' *° '"'^ '''' ver/ imperfect, wUh re- Tlje rainis|er ^of marine determined that nn officer should thf^i^;*^ ^'"'PP^T^"*''^^'' ^" ^^^ ^"&^*e '^e Syrene, whereia ■ hLh^^ i^'u-f^l^^' *^ superintend, in an esiecial manner, he^hydrograph,^ labours, f was selected for this undertiS mg' a better choice might doubtless have *een made: but » well knowing how to value a distinction of^his >,onouraWe kmd, I can ^vith truth affirm, that our sqi^ntific operations during the voyage, are entitled to a measu^. pf Jfc cona- dence. On our return, our papers were submitted to Ihe in- T.nTf'^^. illustrious fioSgaiivUIe; and this prince Sf pS^on. '^ '^™ pleased to aaqction thein wif his V ^oYMGis and TRAVELa, No, 2. r<^ll! ' ju ^i-:^ '€ ''% , ■*i' ■i ■■:t -*<■' ,. >v f , * ts «> w 82 Fremmville's V offOge to tlie ]Sorth Pole. The division, or squad rog, consisting of the frigates tfie Syrene, tlie Guerifere, and this Revanch'e, piit to sea on the 28th of March, IBOfJ. After frequent cahns fora number of tiays. together, in the gulf of Gascony, a very violent gale dispersed them, and obliged the Syrene to make for the Azorc Islands, which had been fixecf upon as the first point of ren- dezvous in case of separation. After cruising two days within view of the isles of Corvo and Fiores, the squadron again got together, and immediately bore away in a northerly direction. We were not long before we felt the effects of a piercing cold, which gave us reason to regret the rtiild temperature of the Azores. Continual foul weather, which did not allow us for fifteen days to sail, except with lowered topsails, led the captain to conceive, that as. the rigorous season was likely to be of longer continuance than usual, it was too soon to. at- tempt a passage into the frigid zone j in consequence of this, he determined to cruii^ie about ten or twelve days rn the lati- tude of Cape Farewell, on the coast of Greenland. Our course, in coming from the Azores to these latitudes, had passed over the points wherein a number of doubtful spots are marked on the great chart of the Atlantic Ocean, pub- lished in 1786 J and which, perhaps, have no existence, or only" form the little .island of Jaquet, inaccurately fixed by the voyagers to Newfoundland ; their reports, it is certain, have often obtained more qredit than they were entitled to. We steered for ten days on the parallel of .59 deg. 30 min. but having to encounter very rough gales of a northerly wind, all our endeayours to l^cep longer in that bearing were fruit- legs. Being ojjliged to keepi close to the Cape, we were driven back to the south, as far as the 58th parallel. To make some advanti^e of a circumstance so contrary, we beat about for the Isle of Bas, or Wrisland, phced in the chart of M. de VerdiiV) in 58 deg. 11 rain. lat. N.and in 28 dog. 13 min. long. W. '|?|iis islet, which was nothing but an extinguished vol- cano,'' had become a rendezvous for the Greenland fishermen who first discovered it j the Dutch had formed some establish- ments on it, for the -preparation of ivbale-oil, but it disap- peared about sixty years agp, and lias never since/been noticed. It is conceived, that like many other volcanic islets, it has been swallowed up by some submarine cdnvulsion, examples^ of the like having frequently occurred. Reaching the point assigned to the Isle of Bas, in the chart above citcdj we could trace no vestige of it ; but as we had a rough sea, with short ^nd rrppling waves, v^e judged we might he over the spot it once occupied. We sounded for better assu- Fretninville's Voyage to the liJorth Pole. 83 Tance, biiloine of 200 fathoms could find no bottom. Such submarine phenomena, doubtless the most' extraordinary of any that volcanic eruptions produce, are \frequent in the Northern Ocean, at least in the tracks occupied \by the long volcanic chain that stretches from the 58th to the 72d degree of latitude. This chain commences to the north of Scotland j and the basaltic archipelagos of the Hebtides, of the Orkneys, and Shetland Isles, form the first rings of it. Stretching afterwards to the N. W. across the oceanic whirlpools, it appears again at the Ferro Islands, then at Iceland, the most extensive theatre of ignivomous erup- tions to be found on the surface of our globe. From Iceland, the chain goes on to join the Isle of Jean Mayen, or Trinity, where it appears to end, after traversing under water a space of more than 260 marine leagues. In advancing more to the north, we find nothing in the character of the lands that presents features of a volcanic soil ; Bear's Island, and Spitzberg, are wholly cal- careous; • The weather , now becoming milder, we bore away for the north J and in a few days we had sight of the coasts of Ice- land. Their dark profile delineated a rough sketch of its steep, rocky, indented shores, or a misty horizon ; in the N. W. at a very considerable distance, appeared an enormous mountain, which we judged might be mount Hecla^^tthj bad weather, for three day successively, not admitting of any astronomical ob- servations, I will not affirm that it was actually that famous vol- cano, which had now been in a tranquil state the twelve preceding years. We made sail for the north-east, coasting land, but at a consi- derably distance j the weather cleared up, during the short nigbt which succeeded to the day of our seeing land, afid a pure serene ^ky on Ihe day ensuing brought to view, on another pBlnt of the coast, ajocul, or mountain, of a pirodigious height, entirely co- vered with snow ; its summit, wbidi reach^ far above the clouds, reflected the rays of the' rising sun, which tinging it with a beautiful rose-colour, blended insensibly with the white- ness of its flanks, and produced an admirable effect. Our obser- vations enabled us to ascertain this mountain for the jocul of, Knapafells, on the point of Wester, to the S. E. of tke is- Ipnd. - Being thu* Wsured of our jxisition, we bore away at large,'keep- ing always to the E. N. E. We were in the tra«k wherein the maps gienerally place the Isle i>f Enckuysen, the exisfence of which was, nevertheless, considered! as fery doubtful. In our cqurse we must have passed directly over the point wherein the chart of Bellin places it. As the probletn of its existence was a n 4. SH ^ 84 FremmvUle's Voyage to the North Pole. matter of sW interest to resolve, and we could eflFect it without foik?out \* '''°"'^^' '"'' stationed some of our company on the At night-falVsome of the men gave notice of a shoal, or ridge, ahead ; m foct the sea, at a little distance in front, seemed to us obvered w.th thoiisands of birds, of the kind of petrels and sea- /iulls the vast^nuXiberof which, from their white plumage, re- sembled at a distance the froth^if wav^s rippling over breakers j we went about a m Ife to windward of the prilided shoaL and discovered at to b^the|oating and half putrid carcase of a dead lyhale, thus Servm^ for <^d to an immense multitude of sea.fowl. Next day May | 12, W^ discovered land; it was, in reality the Isle o Enckuysen, to ^e N. N. W. of'us, at the distan/e of about two eagues and aXhalf. We fixed the position of its long W^^^°" at,.64 deg. 5^1 min. l&t. and 12 ideg. 48 min. w Jt!irl J"' f °i ^°^^"y^^"? generally placed in the charts much too westerly of its real situation, and; too near the co»st of Iceland, of n'n F S S° ^' W "' ^T ^'''^' ^" «^*^°*> i^ the direction dlr'tS^^^^^^ 1- just elevation enough not,tp ren- iniS! bn W ''^^ "^^ *''°''*'' *^^ ^''*'*'*' ^^ '"''''^^ ** *^ ^^S' 14 thi^fi^l'^;^*" • ^'' Iatitud<«tof 72 deg. we Wiced, with surprizef ' the first. floating ice; it was unusual for the se\son to meet with . h^. n r- ^* " ".."'""'d^n*^ ^^ ^°"°^ "^^^ th^ middle of May, but only in from 76 to 80 degrees of latitude, fijaptaiiy Phipps sen ,m 1773, from England, to explore the passa^of Uie Pole! sJStiergr '"^ *'^^'^^^^^ reach64 the N. W. part of thecoit pf • ^^^y^^y Y^ came abreast^^W a very large island of floating ' kss detachiJii from tlie immensJ banks that surroSnd the 6p,tzberg,/rom the diversity of their shapes, and their curious infractions and indeptations, presented J spectacle altogether unique for the most of our company. Their friction prodSed a s^fp'sJifsrnririJ^i^'''^^^^ to 2? h!?rA*r °'^ "°"°*""' ^^ ice-flakes, many of whicfc rose^ Stia^lfSTLrbS^^^^^^^ *^^^^"^ tUparen,and Still bearing on to the N. E. #e endfeavoived to neftr Beerihe M not above four or five leagues. It i^, reported that the Rulsitns ' havr 4i8cov«i«d ia it « voy rich silvermiiir ' f^ •.V ./.," ..*- f: Freminmlle'8 Voyage to the North Pole. .>'• ni May IStlfcat midnight (there was no darkness then during the ight) a blffisli lustre, visible in the horizon, warned U5 of the approach of the ice. This phenomenon produced by the rJTrac- tion of the rays of light ^n the water, is a sure sign of the proximity of considerable bergs j in fact, we observed one soon after, but consisting of bloc^ks so large and so close together, that there appeared no interval through which we could pene- Zf!t\^ ^^ coasted along It for several hours; it was coVered Tl' t wf^"^' ""^ pAoc^that is leals, pr sea-calves (phoca mtu- ' 1^.) that were rolling about, and seemed 'to be sporting In the snow. We were so near that we coCld , salute them with dk- charges of our musquetry, but were unaBle to kill any, as Hhe balls merely slid over their hard smooth skin withoutiiiercinif It. Knowing that they were dispatched at once with Wblow on tJ^e nose, we^preWed a,boat and descended, to the number of seven or eight, dmong immense heaps, the smallest of which were five feet m l6p^th. Our presence did not terrify them, .and they viewed u»\with a stupid kind of stare. We knocked some of them (^ the ^ead with pur oars, when they tried to "iun Jo"'^^^*P^' uttering a noise like the shri^ barking 6f a It is generally thought that Seals derive th6 faculty which Sf T*^' ""^ '^^y'"? ^"."8^ ""^^'' ^^^^^* to the botal aperture, which they preserve during lif^.» I wished to inform myself on tbis injportant point of compariftive anatomy, apd took care to open the heart of one of those we had taken ^ found the notion to be. erroneous, that the botal aperture was ^ entirdy W« tl ■ f ^^^""^ ^y*'?" ^^thout previousl/ crossing the iir&n^ !k '"* disengage itself by the contact of the extlriil ZlZtuu^^^u^'^'f^'''^ it^coijtains. It is evident, there" ?p?;hW-^^'*'°"«^^^^*^^J^P'"°^ underwater i^or a consi- oehheTol ?hT ^l^d aaitis in other mamiiiifei^us animals j nerther can they dispense with the necessity pf "coming ud to ? fn'^T^u^^ '^' '^'^J^^' ^^"^ ^""^to time; td take TLtb^ alivl ^LVi' ''°"r^ ""^ myseahfifled with iflteatinalwo^s akve,that appeared to me to^elongto the genus of «cAi/J. In proceeding along the borders *# the ice, we found it stret^hinj^abngtothcetist aftei* having obligS ^to mount uy to/rdeg.SS m^m. and having, jncour^, passed by the >uIb^SKp^^ f T*" m ■ -^4-4 ^ ■tl ■■ L M< ' ' .r^- y-'^H ■. .,J-- ,'■,*... >» ■■-V ■4 •f BS Freminvtlle's Voyage to the North Pole. i latitude of Beering Island, the pursuit of which we now dis- continued. : V May 22d, a profound calm surprized usj in sight of an island of ice of considerable length and extent. As long as the calm lasted we were hemmed round with a grobp of cetaceous ani- niak, from twenty-five to thirty feet in length, marked as the jfenus Delphinus, by Linneeus, but whicii, I conceive, ought 4o constitute a new species. I have already published a de- scription\of them, with cuts, in the Bulletin of Sciences of *he Philomatlup Society, under the name bf Delphinus Corona- Jbf or the Crowned Doiphfn ; this epitNet comes from two concentric circles, of a yellow colour, thafc these animals l^c on the crown of the' liead. | A breeze springinrg^ up in the night, we Were jlrawing nearer to the islet of i6e that stood to the north of us j*^ we tried to find an opening or passage, but none Appeared f and after coasting it a long time, keeping to 't]\p e$st, we perceived it ready to join another considerable massi ind that the interval between them was so narrow and so perplexed with floating flakes and heaps of ice, that a passage wasiimpractic^hle. We tacked aboufc*5vith an intention to double its western extremity, which we conld not accomplish till next day. ^After clearing it we bore to the north-ieast, falling straight m With the south Gape of Spitzberg, which we were in hope* .of soon reaching ; but in. this we were disappointed, as another island of ice came to present new obstacles. On the eastern side of it we cipt^ild perceive an opesiing or avenue : we plunged into it, but scarcely had we entered, when a thick fog came over us and obliged us to exert particular care to avoid strik- ing against some of the large floating fragments of ica that surrounded U9. :; The fog lasted two hours ;^When, clearing up, we could see the ice behind us closing up so as to intercept our return. We were now ^gulphed on every side, immured as in a kind of basin tM mighf be about two leagues in extent. This, to us, was a situation truly alarming ; we tacked about in^^eveiy directiotf ih quest of an outlet ; jone only was visible ; btit the floating fragnients that blocked it up made the attempt to be, at first, considered as impracticable. At length our comman- dant, finding the icy-basih that shut us in was condensing and accumulating, decided that we had no time to lose, or hesitate betweeii, the certainty qF being quickly locked in the ice and a solitary ^hance of escape. We made all sail then to get through tHf»«pernous streight j and, after runfting the risk a hundred (itnes of being dashed against the floating shoals that 1 " ' ■ FreminviUe's^oyage io the NoriU Pole. SJ u-ere thickening around us, we were fortunate «nougli to clear the passage with the loss only of some sheets of oup copper, that were carrie4 away by icy morsels we had to bear up ^against. May 3 1st, we discovered the land of Spitzberg; at a very great distance we could trace the South Cape, which stood N. N. E. as also Hope Island, which lies a little more to the east, at a short distancfe. A solid plain of impenetrable ice prevent- ed our getting near it, and, being obliged to stretch along it in a rUn to the north-west, .we ioon lost sight of that dreary shore. • ■ . Jjune Sd, a deep inlet was visible in the middle of the im- mense islets of ice that v^e were coasting along ; we enterM into it, and had a toilsome passage of about twelve hours ; but it was so blocked up, that we were obliged at. last to return. A* heavy gale from the S. W. bringing ^ast masses of icy frag- ments into contact, threatened to close in upon^.us,> and it waff hot without prodigious exertions that we got at leiigtl\into the open sea. • \, \ We now began to lose all hopes of reackug 6pitzberg,\ which was one part of our destination. Some days befoire we had cap'- tured some whale-ships, the captains of which assured us that they had been engaged in the^ame fruitless attempt, and^hat the*j ice had rendered all approaoi) imfracticable. -^ Our shlpfi' companies were very much worn down witlf inces- sant fatigue, in _ a painful navigation, that called for constant watching and active' exertion. The scurvy was preying upon us, and some of our best seamen had fallen victims toit ; our watpr and wood grew scanty ; the want of wood prevent^ us from get- ting at water with the melted ice. We tried, but in vain, to procure heat enough for this purpose, by resorting to different methods in all the warmest| parts of the ship. The perplexities of sMch a situation called Tor a speedy change of measures ; our chief, however to shelter himself from every imputation of neglect, would make one more ef- fort to find a passage through the sdGd ice, adjjr^ncing as far north as possible ; in thi4 hope we kept contiiiuglly bearing up along the chain of in^moveable ice that stretched to the N. W. j In fact,' we reached the ^Oth degree of latitude, without gain- ing any inlet or opening. |T4w whole vast plain, or rather con- tinent of ice, lies in a dirtction to the west. We coasted it tor several days without fihding any break or interruption, and I am convinced that it joibs all along to the ice that borders the coast of Greeriland. 1 ./" %• i.i%. ■ r*' -r- ; ik» J ...r 88 FreminvilU*8 Voyage totlie Nqrth Fole. I shall not attempt to describe the impressions that the soli- tary^an^ dreary aspect of this icy continent mo^uced on our raiDds. It^wtaation on the limitfe of our dglobe,ihe profound .' silencfe pervadmg its vast domain, the total absefe^. of animal lite— every thing seemed to-exhibit an.image of death, and of aU nature in motirning. The gloomy sbectaclelwas not, bow- ever, without ^ sort of peculiar attraction; liias^es of ice. illttmmed in different modes, reflecting jthe lightiri a thousand different ways, from the odd assemblage! of theiruMe points or ends J their fractures, their varied sHape8,'preSented views as uncommon as theyiwere astoriishipg. We used frVently to compare them to the ruins of some most [extensive capital dis- jjcrned at a distance ; the imaginaftion taking wing, would de- pict colonnades, towel's, steeples, castles, foiOjzessesw &c. In' the remote bacR-ground appeared a dhain of l^fty mountajrw of ice that terminated the horizon. ' • i . ' There being no prospqjit of perwtrating furtherndrth, anCi It being impossibk to toiidh at Spit%r^, we resolved on steer- !.°?. ^^^'J^ard/ having taken and burnt, in the Korth sejis, fifteen whale fishery ships. „ • ^ Here we may reniark, that Captain Pfiipps did not ^ncoun- / ter the chain of ice trll he was north o? Spitzbete, whereat it/' bk)*k«d up our passage at the 77th degree. ^, - I« the course of oar'«avigation in these parts, w© never had a heavy sea, thpujgh the wind was "fri^uently very high: the " waved were in some raeaspi^e fetferefT under the m& of ice. VVe could obsei-ve, however, ^after Captain Phlpps, oti nearing the great bamks,- ev'en in calm weather,^ big surges cpmiiwr gent^ ly fcom the south, ^ - - In those high latitudes the sky is seldom so dear as to be able tb make astronomical observatiohs. We availed' ourselves 0i every favourable circumstance that occurred, but it was only three twnes that We could take the meridian altitude of the sun at midnight. / " \ ' Scarcity And scorbutic disease* called foy^prompfe relief ; oup commandant at first was making for the B||y^ «f Slruosa, itt Danish Lapland : but'oontrary winds forced v(ito relinquish this ratemion, and to bear away forlceland. July 3d, we were OffXangeness, th^ N, E. point of that large " island J asf we meant' to bring up in tte Baf of Pstrix Fiord, at the opposite extremity, our course made us nearly go the dr- quit of it, and we seized' the -opportunity of ad'ding to pur geogra- phical infojrihationj.with respect to lliie coasts of a country so little Jinawfl. y ' - ."Langeness, orLoiig Point,' is. easily to be dislinguishgd j iti»" \. - \. -* "; July 6tlcwereadhed the Isles of Portland, at tie most sbuth- €t^.^Xtreit3iy of the island ; it was at this point^rnvthe Marquis , Verdub de ia Crenne termijiated his voyage M^^^ry, when C be panne toyisit Iceland^ in 1771> in the frigate Cia Flore, having with htm Bbrda and Finer^, for scientific purposes. The labours of those valuable men "Tfell deserve the .praipe of rigid accuracy we have obse#ye3 that the cliart publishc^d by them in 1776, with respect "toall the>.part8 of the.cbast of Icdandt which they visitad, tliat is to say, the part from ihia Isles of* i[*orthnn4 ti> Patrix Fiofd* .fftracedlWiith a precision that leaves >^othic(g to ^ ivisbed for* either in point pfposHibns or of coltrfigttf^tionS. ^ . ... . * We owe alsb.a just tribute ofeiriogiuin to tl\e efrgratrinigs of the views of the cdiasls 'anaiext;d ta the relation ^of thj^ Voyage of J^a Flore, and designed by Ozatifle, iemployed on hcK^ owr frigate • nothi^ can be Inore correct even to the very smallest details! As to the vie\n^ of the same 'portions of coftst, engraved in the re- " J[j(tipnof Kerguelen, they are. rather to be censured thaiT com- . ;■ mehdeJ." ', ■■ „., ',. „■;•'"„ , -„ ' After %ploring the whole southern Ctwit of iceknd, we passed , between Cajpe Retkia-ness and, tlie, I^<>c^^9j|||Mf' Birds, in Ice- jiModisli, Hyke-ys'e. It w|s here' that a v^jRular' submarine pheiaomenon occurred, in 1783 |^v the sea a{)|^^cove>ed with a .•>;? siA |f»^ WSSS*' I*,., IV- •Sj-' ;^0 m 90 i , Frmmville's Foyftge to ihe North Pole* light-bluish flartie, through nh extent of more than a mile j it lasted sevebl hours,- «nd occasioned a very great cons te mat ion among 4heinl)|^bitants of the nieighbgaring coast. When.^r ilfttite ceased^ a smaTrtstand appeared on the site, the surface of which was covered with punpice -stones and volcanic ashes. This islet hassince disappeared, probably l^y another convulsion of the si^me kW^. \ In pr^eeding/iorthwards, we crossed the great golph of Faxa Pordurp havjfig a view of Mount Jengel, or tite Joculofthe Wi!Sf J its top covered withsnowl, though at more than twenty l»i^u«s distance. This is taken! to b^Vthe highest mountain in Mlan}lw..^_^_ , :'| \ ^ It was nnhe flltjR^f'ef-EaxiJEiordur that we saw the sea covered /with a sort oC^ollMIca, tor ratheToF roaiaire, that seemed to con- stitute a new g«ius affiliated with the medusas and the heroes. I gate it the name^^f idyi ; a description, with a plate of it, was pablished in the BiiUetin of Sciences, vnder the name' of idya Islandica. After doubl gulph of Brey the BaycifP^ t^ater, near ^ The Bay o ^ and 26 deg. 29 min the island, h is very l^ape iand Mount Jengel, we crossed the lurj and, on the 13th of July, we entered fd, where we anchored in eleven fathoms factory. |Fiord lies in 65 deg. 33 min. 45 sec. N. lat. 53 sec. W. long. ; like all the other bays of deep, and encompassed with lofty, abrupt mouritains. The entrance to it is very easy, and there is no d ger to be appVehended. "-^ The Danisi^ factory stands on a low point, consisting of an- cient lavas } the anchorage is within the point. The Danish establishment is divided into three wooden houses, one of which selves as a dwelling for the director, and the others are warehouses. Round about lie scattered the. wretched huts of the poor Icelanders, half buried in earth ; the roofing only, made of whales ribs, rises above the surface. Behind these is a pool of fresh water, which has given to Patrix Fiord the Ice- landish name of Vatneyre, the Water Town. The bay may be about three leagues in length, from W. to E. ; its greatest breadth is abont a league and a half. Very near the middle is a large sand-bank, which gets dry at low- water, and over which laipge vessels cannot pass. Besides the town and village of Vatn^yr^, there are others dispersed about . • Ia.lM»"ndi«h, tbe ytord Jim d, or fiordur, iigfiiifie, a g.itpli, or bay ; jocul or . jockel, 15 appropriated to the liigit niountaiiig. b i > "' -J- , J"*^"' »' FrenmiviUe't Voifage to the North Pok. 91 thet«yat certain distances; the most con«iderable is that of Sad langsdaler, where there \» a Lutheran church j it lies on— ^ the side opposite to the Danish factory, on the banks of a sheet of water well stocked with salmon. * A chart of all the parts of the isJand that we^ visited, with a nuinb«f- of our own new discoveries and original remarks^ wert transmitted, on our return, to the minister of niad||k together with a collection of seventeen designs, representinflHws of difC T ferent coasts, some tract? or situations in Iceland, and variont objects of natural history, either new or but little known. The country round the bay presents a gloomy sort of prOspec<, b^ dignified and imposing ; every thing bears the impression of ^'gt'an'c I convufsions and of the ravages of earthquakes. AH thh mountains seem, as it were; calciaated; you cannot walk - except over lava and. basalt, the fragments of which, disjoined, roll under your steps with a rattling and stunning, noise ; Only two colours, red and black, diyersify the lugubrious landscaple withm the cfrcle of your view. A good scene-painter for ia ,*ne«V'e. whowcmld mate a drawing of the infernal region^, couldpbpy np better model than one of the situaions of Iceland.! >ne of the oddest spectacles that I ever beheld, was a very extensive platform, serving as a ctntea?, or crown, to the mountaih tWat overlooks the anchorage of Vatneyre. It is composed ^f lafrge tables of basalt, from eight to ten feet of surface, but on a ^vel, and arranged regularly, one beside another, like so manly leaves m a bfipk j the edge,- not above four inches in thickness, every where meeting your view. In some parts, these basaltic tables, overset by earthquakes, yield such an image of disorder and confusion, that you would be led to think the spot (wh«»eon no si^n of vegetation or life appears) to be made Up of the ruins of the globe. In low places, at the entrance of the valleys, there is some httle appearance of verdure ; a thick turf, with a few flowed scattered on it, may be seen on the banks of the running waters. I collected a number of plants, but Tittle known th ^ /Europe, large enough to form nearly the whote of the Islandic Flora. \ ; Not a single tree is to be seen in. the whole distffct xif Patrix Fiord ; and even in the other parts of the island it is with" diflS- , culty you can light on a few dwarfish willows, and some stunted birch-trees. Many fruitless attempts have been made to sow ot plant the pine «|nd fir, frOm Europe ; but though they have suc- c^«ded in^ the fine season, the young shoots were jneverable tQ stand the long and rigorous jvinter of a climate so frozen. No credit niust be given to what M. Horrebow reports, in his descrip- ft, •«* / / ( w ,/ I * t ,< IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /, {/ ^>. ^/.- ,V ,% V\^v U.. ?" IttIM US u 1^ 2.2 20 IL^ lllll-U IIIIII.6 v / PhotograjAic ^Sciences Corporation ' as WIST Man strut WltSTU,N.T. I4sa0 (71ft) t73.4S03 *\ iV k" iV L1>^ <^ «^\ A v**^ v^^ ^ ;\ ^ '«w'.;.s . I \ -fc ■<•• r,' If is -.•?^ ' W' 92 . FrefnimilWs.Voyage to the North Pole. tion of Iceland, wherein he makes mention of fruitfbf plalof, and immense pastures: his work, drawn up from the false accounts Of the Dutch fishermen, is replete with the grossest errors. That of Anderson, built on the same authorities, is but little better ; and the fact. is, that we have in Europe but very lame and imper- fect accounts of this country, so very extraordinary and interesting in many respetffs. Iceland extends from N. to S. between 66 deg. 44 mfii. and 62 deg. 22 min. 30 sec. lat. and from W. to E. between 27 deg, a min. and 18 deg. 26 min. long. W. of the meridian of Paris. Its greatest len/rth may be about 133 leagues, «nd its breadth about fifty-six : the island contains a superficies of about 5500 square leagues. Exclusive of a number of towns .and hamlets, there are four principal cities j but in Europe, these cities would only pass for villagesj they are built of wood, with planks brought from Denmark. The first is Holum, in the north j the second, named Skalholtjis in the south ; botli are the sees of a bishop. The third lies to the S. W., and i^called Bessested ; this is the resi- dence of the governor, and the only place in the island where there is a small fort armed with six eight-pounders, mounted on carriages that are falling to pieces with age; totheN. £. is the fourth city, called Skrida. The interior of Iceland is but little known ; the whole island however, may be pronounced a mass of voleanic rocks, whose sides, black and burnt, whose summits, sharp and craggy, present a prospect of the mostsingular kind. There is not a single point In this sad country which does not seem to have undergone the action of fire ; one consequence is, that there is not a country on the globe more fertile in volcanic phenomena. " The mountains, which are all very lofty, are formed of lava and basalt ; you cannot find there the slightest vestige of vege- table soil. In winter, the extreme cold splits these calcined mountains, and causes enormous fragments of them to fly off, > which, in their' fall, divfde into a number of others, which roH precipitously into the roads and ways, like so many torrents, to overwhelm and obliterate the traces of them. I was witness to several of these sorts of avalanches, which soiiietimes also take place in the fine ^^on, but ever with a frightful noise, and a smell resembling that whicbjirises from the calcination of bricks or lime-stone. Not only the cold, but frequent earthquakes shake and Over- throw the mountains of Icebad to their foandadons ; cleaving, {•/ /•■ U. y» C/ FrtmmoiUe*$ Voyage to th$ Norlh Pole. W disarranging, changing the direction of ftieir constituent materials, which lose their consistence. A number^f mountains present extinguished craters; others are still ignivomous. In the interior of the island, some terrible eruptions took place in 173^, 1752, and 1755. The principal smoke at present, is the mountain Krafte, which is ever emitting volcano and lava. Hekla, at the time of our stay there, was in k state of repose, but it has had new eruptions since. Hot-springs and fountains are very numerous in the island ; they e^rcel all others Icnown, in the abundance and degree of heat of their waters. The' principal are, the springs of Geysen, situated nt about two days' wallHng journey from Hekia, an4 near Skalholt ; they issue alternately from three successive jetteaux of a con- ' siderable height. We saw one between Patrix Fiord and Lusbay, hot enough for the Icelanders to dress their victuals in. The exterior geography of Iceland, that is to say, of the coasts, is as y^et a desideratum for nearly the whole; the northern part is the least frequented, and the least known. The charts we had of them before the voyage of La f'lore, had been copied from documents grounded on accounts of the Flemish and Dutch fishermen, and do not merit confidence. The chart published in 1767, in the French Neptune, is taken from M. Horrebow's ; though better than the rest, with respect to tlie general configu- ration of the lands, it is full of errors as to the longitudes of places. All the ancient Dutch charts^ place in the entrance, and about three leagues from the bay of P&trix Fiord, a group of ten islets, called Gouberman's Islands ; therje, is i^ot, however, the least trace of them. It is certaija^h)|i il|e group;, must have formerly been in the situation, ai thc^e'tramtioti of them is kept up in the country, and they have doubtless been overwhelmed, in conse- quence of some sub-marine coq^yulsion. The same fate has pro- ' ' bably carried away Pepy's Island, which is now no where to be found, but which stands in the ancient charts near the eastern coast of Iceland, in 64 degrees of latitude. ^( . These ektraordinary phenomena are of frequent occurrence, and they change, in sbme measure, the face of nature, and the general aspect of the coasts of the country. It does not appear, however, that they impede the progress of navigation ; the shores are every where steep, the anchorage good, and the bottomis gene- rally pf volcanic gravel, or pebbles, and broken shells ; and often the two substances are foapd united. There are on the coasts a number of' deep bays, where ships may ride in perfect secarity, covered by the high lands that encircle them. The general population of the island at present is about 40,000 ;< 1 W FretmnviUit't Voyage to the North Pete. apulsrformeriyit aroount?d to €0,000; but the icurvy, and •specially the sn.all.pox which p>;.ed Very fatal in 17& JSd dlst^^! g«Jt«y d'minUhed the poplriatioi. and are Mill very destructive The governor-general, Van Tramp, who came to pay u. a v.sit at Pat.ix Fio^ informed us*that ev*ry yeaTth^ number of death, exceeded that of the births. In time, 'perhapT, the inbabitantsof this country, who, besides, are addieted^o inL/ lubnous modes of lining, will insensibly becime extinct! / iceland, subject to the crown of Denmark from the J3th eei/- H^Linl* "|T'"° "Penw'^e cl«rge than a pro6tab)c possessioi^ X,uT.K-^ '^•"'*' ^~'" " ^'^^^^ ^""^^s per annum, and-;5,e whole of this scanty revenue is absorbed in the charges oT/the governor, of the bailiffii, and ecclesiastics, with the provi/ions and other expenses of their household. / Notwithstaoding its poverty, tWs country allured the /cupi- dity of some Barbaigr corsairs, who, in 1626, landed here a/d car- ried oflFa number df the wretched inhabitants, whom th^ made slaves of. They were agaijr fisited in 1687, by other pirites, who prac .sed the most horrid crudtte. on thi uifortunaV naUv«it totallybereftof all means of defence. / ' ^iZ'^n^^iT^'T^P**^ "* .P° «^«*>y«t thiKing oi Denmark does not keep here any military force, nor have tJ Icelatidefs anns of any description ; a gun, with powder andsh(it,isan object of curiosity, almost as much aajH^tfae inhabitant^ of the South- Sea Islands. We had pr^s.}JK.licitations -t/^indulge such curiosity, but it was only to el^fm in the chace; their peaceiMt cityoT*"' *"*=""« *'^«'»'J« **>''nk of «y ot\ier mode of appli-: Of all other people, the acelandert we,/perhaps, those who h^ve retained the pnmitive patriarclMl maaneni in Uie greatest purity; they are jrood, loyal, hospitatie, and unacquainted with any of those violent passions which, in other parts of the world, lead men to act the part of bntchers to each other. 1 he icelarulers may, however, be cbaracterised as indolent, and, m sonie respects, of an apathetic turn. An intimate union s«b8i8ts among them ; those of the same family seldom separate, f he tendern«s« of parents for their ofiipring, the piety of these toward* the authors of tbeif being, ate mtoes of Whi^h we Witnessed illustrious and affecting examples. No saspi- ctonor distrust, one of the other, can be found here; thefc KiVifNo?w^.^'"'****''***'^'^"*^",'*»""«^'y«^^^ / ■p Frmiimlk't Vijyage to iJui North Pole. '05 and robbery are absolutely unljnown ; aud, eveu during ab- sence, he doors of their huts or cabins are always left open. At thet first glance, one would conceive the Icelanders ot be the roost wretched of men, tlie moat destitute of the conve- luences of life, and their condition to be the most frijrbtful : but. when we reflect on their unagitated character, on tfie few wants they feel, and the facility with which they can provide «n!«n T i V T couBider, likewise, the sweet and intimate union that links them in the bonds of friendship, we must adopt another way of thinking, and even consider them a« Happier than the Europeans, whose enjoyments tire mineled with so many perplexing circumstances, originating in ambi- tion, ,n disappointments, in bodily infirmities, aud the illusions and disquietudes of a thousand diflFerent passions. Ihe Icelander, satisfied with his lot, prefers his dreary' country to all the charms of a rfiore polished society in £ rdpe. Such of them as have visited Copenhagen, in lieu of i^i^Str'^r^^'? the rural scenepr of Denmirk, were ever egretting their burnt mountains^and eternal snows: and though nutnbers of them will turn out and volunteer, as sea- mep on board Danish, or other vessels, they are sure hi the tSnL f ?k"™ "^'^^^ """^^ ''^^' '^ mingle their ashes with those of their anc6s|or8, "^o wuu : Although exiled, ds^it tyere, and having little communica- tfon with the rest of the vvbrld, the Icelanders are giftTd v^th a quicknt^s of intellect, ki^d supplied with a measu e of n- s toction which raises the lo^st of them above the class of tho Jiv*^T- ^"g^"*""**' they speak Latin pretty well. In cJtivISS borrow ''^'T ""^ ^'"^'''' ^-erelocccssJll cultivated here, while, at tjie same p^iod, Eurooe was im- mersed in the depth of ign6rance. tE3^ MSS composed"^ a period m remote, treat of astronomy, of physicsrof TaturJ history, of morals, and philosophy in general. S?r JoseDh ?a?n ^'ool^"'"^"^"- '1 '^'"T"^^ and Wth^y companiorL of^S- luLbl^ &Ti,- Vf '^"^ '" ^^2; he brought away ^va- luable MSS. which he presented to the British MuseunP^ The native language of the Icelanders ia a verv ancient dialect of the Celtic, it is not without it(. i^dcireSns most Sh^m"'^''' '^' '"" °" ^^"^ heroi^ition: Ttbe most distant times, and were recited by the bards called l^t Their ancient mythology is exacSy that of he Scandinavians, from whom they are descended • thus their rad.tions report the names of Odin and Fr^a Tof Hdla and the Goddesses Valkiriesj the aerial combat of the ShadSf the dehcious residence of Valhalla, or Uie palace of Odki s f- 96 Freminoille's Voyage to f /m North Pole. wherein the spirits of departed heroes enjoy true felicity aftfer •their decease. „. 1 coufti only find in Iceland one single kind of antiqne monuments j these are tumuli, or tombs of pebbles and small stones heaped together j three of this description we rfccog- nis6d on the point of Vatneyre. All the voyagers who have made mention of thep)^ have represented these pyramidal forms as raised expressly to point out theplaces of anchorage, and to serve asvbeaconS to vessels en terii|)g the bay; but the director of the Danish factory assured me that they were an- cient sepulchres, and he earnestly recommended to us to forbid our men from despoiling or degrading them, as it would be a serious affliction to the natives, who could not see us even ap- proach them without symptoms of pain and uneasiness. In France we have b great numberof similar monuments, which may be traced to the Celtic times j among others, is one in the Morbihan, near the famous men-hirs of Carnak, that stand in a row, and which rises nearly a hundred feet in height. * ' *. The wood necessary for constructing their fishing- vessels , is brought from Denmark, for not a single tree is to^be seen on the island. The only fuel the inhabitants have*^ is fish- bones, with turfs of peat-moss, and a sort ofHgnite, or yi'ood half mineralised, and very bituminous, that is found in the moun- tains. . The Icelanders are extremely sober, but their unwhole- some diet is productive of different diseases; it chiefly con- sists of raw fish, dried in the sun, and of sheep's-heads, pre- served in a sort of vinegar, which they mak6 with the juice of sorrel. They eat also a sort of sea-weed (fuats «acc^rtnu«), boiled in milk ; and they make soup of the Uchen Jskmdictu reduced . to powder. They are strangers to our bread, and a fragfnent of worm-eaten biscuit was a treat to them. Water and milk are their only beverage, and they ever testified a great dislike for.0);r wines and strong liquors. Iceland maybe considered as a very, singular country, in respect to its natural histoiy, as yet but little known, and still more so iii'^ a geological view, as teeming with observations most curious and important. The mineralogist might here collect a rich treasure of lavas, basalts, and pumices. In the vici- nity of Patrix Fiord, we found Veautifnl crystals of feldspatb, of analcime, of melonite, of amphigene, andzeolitbe: these silbstances are commonly to be found in the cavities of the lavds. { saw also, on the crater of an extinguished volcano, some V FrtmnvUU's Foyage to the North Pote. » "^7 octaedre cryntalr^f Dative salphur, involved in a v^hitiih clay- ey sabstaoce ; aUo the obtidian stone of the ancient mineral- ogists may frequently be met with. There is no abundant variety of botanicaT^fytaQts in a cli- mate 80 Doi^therly, niore particularly in the claaTs of Phanero- games. Here follows a listof the vf^rious species that I haye ob- served : — ' I Fucua saccharinas. S Pucus nodo8us. ^3 FucuB vesiculosus. 4 Fucusjoreus. 5 Fucus carneus. 6 Fucusplnmosiis, 7 Ul?a lactaca. 8 Zostera marina. 9^ Hypnuin squarrosuro. 10 Minumfontaiium. 1 1 Lichen iHlandicus. 12 Lichen chaly|>ei'fornii8. 13 Lichen spinosuii. 142Lichen muralis. 15 Lichen rangiferus. l6|Lichen paschahs. 17( Lichen pixidatus. 18 Juncu«spicatu8. 19 Anthericum calycinum. SO Draba inuralia. 2 1 Draba iucana. 22 SaxiFraga tridactylites. 23 Saxifraga oppositifolia. 24 Erigeron unrfloruai. 25 Arabis thaliana. 26 Polygonaiu viiriparain'^ There is a greater variety in the productions of Zoology. The mammiferous animals of the island are-~ ^ 1. Hie horse, which is tmall, but very numerous. It is of grtat Die fbr travelling, walking with a sure step on the edge of pttcipi- cea, and over the sharp fragments of basalt that lie in heaps in the paths. . 2. The bull or ox, is poor and lean, and the island is bat sototily stocked with them. 3. The sheep are very numerous, of a good size, and conmonly very fat. Most of the rams have four and even five horos. ... 1 4. Thedog is about the sixe of our shqiberd's dog* wbiffh ha.tM^t- ty much resembles. . The ears-afe stmij^ht, but gashed or br^lufcr'at their extremities ; this is a character peculiar to the Iceland dogs. 5. The Isatii, or Camii Lagoput of Linnaeus, is very CMpmoa ia VoTAOEs and Travbls, No. 2, Vol. II. \ N . ' 1 27 Sjsixifraga aspcra. 28 Saxifragastellaria. ^ 29 Salix lanata. 30 Salix capftea. 31 Carpinus betulos; 32 D I as octopetalar-" 33 Pinguicula vulgaris. , 34 Papaver alpinum. 35 Eri^phoron vaginatan. 36 Rhodiola rosea. 37 Carex . . , . 38 Barthia alpiua. 39 Vaccinium vitis Idea. 40 Silene rupestris. 41 Silene arenaria. 4^ Alaineiuedia. 43 Rumex scutellatus. / 44 Allium ..... 45 Cochlearia Groeolandica. 46 Sedum villosom. 47 Thlaspi alliacea. 48 Cerastium repens. 49 Geranium fepcos. 50 Kauunculns sulfurctMv 51 Viola calcarata. m ' 5 '^. ^l°t'F J^l "•»''!••«:*» W"" the blue fo,. from the slutesJoloi,r«I txDge of h.. hair, he w verv dettroctive to the flock.. Thowha h«, the fact beeu hitherto noticed b, natuSi»t.. «>n««ve. K The white bear i* not a native of Iieli but frequently arrive. dettrov them before^hey have time to multiply. A 7. The seal w rery cootoioo. We saw more tbi b*y oC I^uc, another tpecte* of »eal of the very 1 b«.og eight or ten feet i« leugth. The head, in.teac mapoinied B»uule,as in the preceding tribe, i. Sr '.n^ f °^ g^ey w-he. ; unlik, the rest of hi. geoiS. he is very m/e ;? ttem'"""' ""** "'" '«'r"* approach him. 1 could only k7u SjThe «h«le designated |iy Linuaus as the 6aUvna)ku,ticetus islesacomaionherethanatSjHtiberg mjftiweius, ^ MxHi are in greater uumber and variety than the manimi- ferousaqunala , but the p.arine species ai* the most numeZL sisJa Sn°h «» '"^''^'"^ ^^^•'■'^ "Ijk'^^" •^"^^^ ^ owiitholo- once, round the ;eatt dimensions, r terminating t wide, and of the ani- la\ •ge. gists. Such as, 1 Aquila chrysaetos. 2 Aquila owiifragtt. 3 Aquila Canaden.is, 4 Falcb balisBtOs. 5 Falcocumtuunis. / 0f1al6»cMid{«aa». / 7 Strix scandiacca./ «&rtaalutt> / 9C«rvu»conb.. / Id fitufaanaa aivalH. 1 1 Friogilla vulgaris. 1 ft ai)<*MMs. / I 1 6 A lias auser. 17 Anas borealis. 18 AnaSmoIlissima. 19 Alca arctictt. 80 A lea atce. 21 lN^eltaria)>dagiea. 22 Plmrellariaglaoialis. 13 Cria drylle. 34 Uria tmilc. a& Cdytnbas ioMner. 26 Colymbus glacialis. 2!^ Lart^ riasa. 28 Larus ebunwuc . 89 Sterna Wando, lli Anas fusca. ^?^^° «^«»*UJee, but with fair terus luihpuf. 7 AiiHrriiicas lupus.\ 8 Squalus glaucus. './ The seas jyhich wash these coasts abound with the Molusca and radwire,b(it the short Wme of our residence in th6< island did not permit us to notice them all. The most comm'o^xape cies are the doris' stellata and pibsa, the ciios borealis and KAaei- " u'-T? ?*'^ g^ciaUs, the medusa capiUati, and the new End which I have described under the name of idya Islandica. The shells contain several new species of the tellina, the patella, and the buccinum ; we also met with a very large spe/sies of w^tft' ote, the pecten Jslandins, the buccimm nudatum, and the lapillus • a so some species of t^e f/ocfcw, of the meretiix mercator.a: as also of the common muscle and the sea-urchin, which are very good eating. ' ^ Jnsectsare no stracgers to the climate, notwithstanding its TJZlrlT:^''' '^7ri ^"'^ •" ""'"'^^••' «°d mostly of il i I • P'""'",' ?** ""i the genera culex tipuh syrpluis; and t^^ of Lmnajus. I a so met with a new species of the ctircnKo, or weasel ; and a very singular kind of night-bird. nr .If "Z '*'''""' °' /•'^ crustaceous kind, such as the cancer, «n/«;, ' !u T^''', *^« ^'•^*^«'. pateman. gammarus, &c. and among the Zoophhes, some vervJj«autiful species of coraN Such are part of thJ observations th!^"mide during a stay of eighteen days, as wejl from my own researches as from tl°e conversa ion wtfh the physician to the governor. Van Tramp a very .ntell^ent diartic^r who came at tUs to visit us, wffill his suite, during our residence at Patrix Fiord. This gentleman £n«us.'^ '' " *'t ""'""' °' ""'"'' '"' beenTpupTof A traveller that shoiild tnake a longer residence in the island and penetrate furthet.into the interior, would find tiere a mu\t tudt of new facts, the narrative of which would be extremdV n- terestiogj this count.*y, I repeat it, is almost entirely new to us with respect to its scientific reports^nd relations. ^ ° "' The Bay of Patrix Fiord is one of the most convenient points /or the navigator; water, fish, and mutton, are iKegreS " tel "bulwl,^'"' "^y."' ^'"'^ ^2 '^^'-' dl^rentfJ ts" *ea-fowl J bat wood is not to be procurec^ at any price. \ IJuringourstay we setup some ten tk for our sick men who yeor soon recovered, more erpecially f«,m the ml onhe^i.ror" '^ i ICio FrtmkviUe'iryi^agttqam North Pol». butic v«g)>uibles that grow tpontaneoiuljr in the island, and are frequently to be met with. The sea in this bay does rtot rite above eight feet in jtbe highest tides. The variation of' the needle was 33 deg. 45 inin. to the N. W. , July 30, we hoisted sail, and leaving the Bay of Patri« Fiord, we bote away for the south, till we began again to distinguish Mount Jeugel ; ^n after, bidding a 6nal adieu to Iceland, ^e thought only of hastening oiir return to France. Once more we passed over the npiot wherein the ancient charts placed the Isle uf Bus,' which wie had l^fore explored in vain j we Sverenot more fortunate this tiriaej but, as on the former occa- sion, we had Ito encountet a broken, rippling water, the usual in- dication of shbalb ind shallows. On ^ugiisjt the I8lh we were on the coast of Ireland ; we cruised there several days, at the entrance of the Bay of Donnegal ; we then steer^ for Cape Clear, which we doubled, to pruise on ^tSdes; atjiast we entered the Channel ; and, on tbe 27th of September; cast anchcr in the Road of the Isle of Brehut. ■'%■ /^ ^X / ind are t above le was Fiord, nguish nd, ^e charts o ; we occa- lal in- i ; we negal; lise on 27th t. 't- c I ■ I I J IftS / -7 i ,.*4^ I 5aii!aB«iK,;/SiKaKaE ife»- , r \ k. ^ •V • >. - /- ' ^ .N V ' «■ on . \ \ 1 * t. 1 • • • V • - ; ■ » » ~ t ■■" -J s ; 1 » i -■ --\ ,v V ^ ■..'• », /* ^^ 1 f - \ - ■ \ •J\ ^-V^l.'! .-,,• 1