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Although I am free to confess that my object, in ap- pending a Statistical account of Upper Canada, to my notes of the West Indies and United States, is to induce that portion of the British population, whose prospects at home are gloomy and indifferent, to examine into the actual resources of a Province, that would prove a bles- sing to emigrants, and be improved by emigration ; yet I have most carefully endeavored to give only such state- ments as I can fully and entirely substantiate. The inhabitants of Great Britain have been too apt to consider Canada as merely a region of ice and snow, of pine forests and lakes, of trappers and Indians, with a few forts and villages intermixt, and producing only moccasins, furs and ship timber. But this is a very impp»'<*^* *^^^ ^^ ^^^^ interesting country, which i« growing in population and improving in cultivation, more rapidly perhaps than any part of the United States, if we except the territory of Michigan, and which must become, at no very distant period, a wealthy, powerful, and populous Province, especially since the efforts of a few worthless incendiaries striving to kindle civil war, have proved unsuccessful, by the almost unan- imous decision of its inhabitants, conveyed in numberless addresses to the present enlightened Lieutenant Governor, expressive of their determination to prevent the dismem- berment of the empire, and by the return of a large majo- rity of Constitutional members to represent their feelings? in the House of Assembly. The government of Great Britain, and the soundness of the great bulk of the people, will prevent such a calamity from ever taking place. i ll 4 PREFACE. *• That the Canadian Provinces will become a ricli, powerful, and populous country, is certain. No minister, no policy, can prevent that. But whether that wealth, and population, and power, ehall be British, is for the wisdom of Governii- jat and Parliament to determine. May it not be hoped, that the new constituents, and their representa- tives, who have now succeeded to power, will make it a point of honor and of pride, not to sufler the empire of their country to receive any detriment under their authority, not a sini^le island to be lost, not one Colony to be severed, not an inch of frontier or fishery usurped, nor aby source of wealth or industry to decay; lest it should be written to posterity, that a Reformed Parliament know not even to sustain and preserve that greatness, wiiich the Boroughmongers had been able to acquire." If we look at the itiap, the truth is apparent to the eye, which is seldom adverted to, when we speak of Cartada, th&t a large portion of the iProvince lying imtnediately noWhward of lake Erie, is situated in a lower latitude than the greater part of Michigan, lower than all that line and fertile region along the great Can^l in the State of New York, very little further north than the PeJtinsylvaiiia line, and in tho came parallel with Massachusetts. But it is well known that tiie ciiiiiato i<) mnch less severe be- tween the same parallels, as we approach ihe west, thus Pittsburgh has a softer winter and a shorter otie than Philadelphia, £^nd Buffalo than Albany, so Upper Catiada is'rtinch milder thftn Massachusetts. «* The moi^t populous portion of Russia is twenty degrees to the north of the American border of Upper Canada; Montreal lies nearly in the same parallel which cuts through the south of France, the Adriatic, and the Black Sea ! and above all, the Colonists crowding to that country are Britons— a race proverbially successful in all the tasks to be Achieved by patient vigor and fearless adventure. Those men re- quite only room ; their native energies will do the rest. The forest will be cleared, the morass drained, the prairie will be a corn-field, the sandy hill will bear the vine, the huge lakes, those mediterraneans of the new world, will be covered with the products of the mineral and agricultural wealth of the country ; coal has been already discovered in gr(^at abundance ; iron and the various metals are already worked ; y. rur.rAcn. o the lulU abound in rvcry Uuul of limestone, up (o the purest marble. The cliniutc is Kingiiiarly hculihy. 'J'hc higher lutiludo repels all the sunniier epidemics that ravage the United 8tates. Even in the sever- ity oi' iiHwinterH, nil that iH injurious will yield to the thinning of the ((irestH, the drainings of the swamps, and the other labors of the accu- mulating population. The temperature of the European climates has gradually given way to the same means. The north of France, at the lime of the Roman conquest, was incapable of rearing the vine. The north of Germany was the habitual seat of winter. Its frosts and damps, more than the sword of Arminius, repelled the Roman s')ldier, seasoned as he was, beyond all other men, to all vicissitudes of climate. But whatever may be the dreams of England's supremacy in this quar- ter of the globe, in one thing she cannot be a dreamer — in the lolly and cheering consciousness that she has laid the foundation of a great society, where all before was a wilderness. Whether the Canadas shall retain their allegiance, or shake it off, there will, at least, be human beings where once was solitude ; law — where once was the license of savage life ; religion, where the Indian once worshipped in brutish ignorance ; and England's will be the wand that struck the waters from the rock, aiid tilled the desert with fertility and rejoicing. ** The King of Great Britain, at this hour, commands a more nu- merous people than that of any other sceptre on the globe. He is monarch over one hundred millions of m<»n I With him the old Span- ish boast is true : *'On Hi» dominions the sun never sets." But the moBt illuBtrioue attribute of this unexampled empire is, that its princi- pie is benevolence ! that knowledge goes forth with it, that tyranny sinks before it, that in its magnificent progress it abates the calamities of nature, that it plants the desert, that it civilizes the savage, that it strikes ofl'the fetters of the slave, that its . , ■ it is at once, '* Glory to God, and good will to man." A great part of Upper Canada is deligbtrully situated for an agricultural country, free from mountains, it is nevertheless pbundantly watered, and almost surrounded and intersected by navigable rivers and lakes, on which its produce is easily transported to various and extensive markets. It possesses a soil as w^ell as climate peculiarly favorable to the growth of wheat, and immense quantities are grown in it. The Wclland Canal connects the navi- gation of lakes Erie and Ontario ; the Rideau Canal, i PUIiFACK. constructed round the obstructions in the St. Lawrence, opens a free coinmunicatinn by water iron) tlic shores of the Detroit river to Montreal, and thence to the Atlantic ; and it is in contemplation to connect hikes Huron and Simcoe with the lonj^ and extensive chain of lakes throughout the Newcastle District, or improving the nav- igation of the Ottawa river and connecting it with lake Huron, opening a great field for agricultural and comnier- cial entcrprize. The advantage of the navigation of these Canals and the St. Lawrence, arc as exclusively British, as the navigation of the Mississippi is American : and the British government in order to augment and foster her immense navigating interests, permits Canadian produce into her ports at a very small duty, and the Pro- vincial legislature has just petitioned for a further remis- sion of the duties on tobacco, the western section of the Province having been discovered to be peculiarly favora- ble for its growth. It is also ascertained that the climate and Si.)il, csfrccraHy that of the western part of Upper Canada, are admirably adapted ibt- the growth of the white Mulberry, to the cultivation of whichi the attention of our enterprising neighbors in the United States has long been earnestly directed : favored as we are in our i:oiiH?u^rcc with Great Britain, it would prove a mine of wfaljh to the Province if entered into with spirit. This coontry possesses |)hysical capabilities of greatness and of wealth, without limits, and beyond all bounds ; she has a territory which is spread out to an interminable extent, and fertile in every production, conducing to the necessi- ties and the gratification i)f animal nature ; her navigable 1 ivevs, her capacious and convenient ports, and the broad blue bosom of the Atlantic main, which connects her with th€ Motlier country and her other Colonies, and with the kingdoms of Europe, all give to her the means and the ^^W-'i.-.. PREFACE. 7 facility of acquiring; the most ample and tlic most pernm- ncnt strength. *' Nature and tlio arts have connpired to make tlic Gulpli of Sr. Lawrence tlio seat of empire in America. Cape Breton is its gate and key ; Q,nebec, willi its silver spires and batteries confronting^ heaven, i.s its citadel — and tlic towers along the steeps of Halifax, and cannon that bristle on the shore, guard the port and arsenal of Marine. Within reach, the commerce of the Atlantic is carried bvt on the stream from the Gulph of Mexico, as on the bosom of a river, as the commerce of the five great lakes will descend the broad St. Lawrence by the gates of Q,uebec. Cape Breton, Halifax, the islands of Grand Manan and Bermuda, not only secure the navigation of the ocean, but they shut up and form a chain of blockade along the whole American coast. Late be the necessity of exerting such a power again, as its former exercise was brief and successful ; but it is only by such pledges that this country includes many people in her empire, and imposes the laws of industry and peace.'' With regard to choice between Canada and the United States, particularly Illinois and Michigan, to which the preference has been given by some late British anti-Brit- ish writers, two circumstances should be well considered : First, to become a citizen of the United. Skat««, o person must serve an appren»»c«»'**P ot five years, during which period >ih is. rniiAidered as an alien ; at least three years before he is deemed worthy of naturalization, he is com- pelled to appear before a public court, abjure for ever his allegiance to the land of his birth, and the King, and Con- stitution, which he has ever been accustomed to revere. After this probation, and at the end of five years, he has again to renew his protestations of fidelity to the govern- ment of the United States, his abjuration of all Kings, more especially the King of Great Britain and Ireland, After this purification from all monarchial principles, he may possess land and houses, and hold hereditable proper- ty, but he may rest assured that he wiirnever obtain any office either of honor or emolument in the state. Second, in addition to the gratification of associating with mim- n pnrrAcn. bcrsfrofti Circat Britain, nml srciDg tho Briiish llnp; promlly waving in every harbor; in Upper Cnimda, u nntivc of Great Britain can hold [)ropprry at once, hrcomrs c liiziihlo to every ofTice, and is indeed and in fart fully rniiiird to all the rights and privileges he enjoyed at home, and hap- pily exempt from all the burdens which must necessarily co-exist with a huge nationa I debt. Then with n gard to saUibrity, Canada must unquestionably take the prefer- ence, the cold of winter is divested of more than half of its gloom and misery, by the extreme dryness of the at- mosphere ; and the intense heat of summer is attempered by delightful breezes from the lakes. In Illinois the sum- mer is much hotter than in Canada, and the country is indifferently watered : in Michigan the water is extremely bud, and the country abounds in pestilential swamps. It IS a very convincing proof of the excellence of the institu- tions of Canada, and quite demonstrative of the freedom from all oppression on the part of the government, that numbers of r^cppctable citizens from tlie United States come annually to settle in CanttCh», and that there is not a Session of the Provincial parliament, in whirh rbwcare not many applications, by such persons, for the power of naturalization. They are too keen and clear sighted a people to settle and become subjects, in a country, where oppression exists, or where the most ample opportunities are not afforded of acquiring competence. Taxation can scarcely be said to exist in Canada, it is so trijding, and only for repairing roads, and the expenses of the different districts. Servants and laborers, and me- chanics of all descriptions are certain of employment and ample remuneration ; and instances are numerous, of per- sons of this class having sent home money from iheir savings, to assist in bringing out their indi^nt relations. The public works in progress will furnish employment, _'*'.•.. »• PREFACE. 9 for years to come, to any number of laborers coming from Grent Britain, and will continue to sustain the present iiigli wages which they receive for their work. The route by the St. Lawrence, in good ships, is certainly prefera- ble, for persons of small means; the passage is cheap, the facility of reaching every portion of the Upper Province great, and at small expense; whilst the establishment throughout the Canadas, of benevolent societies, formed for the purpose of aiding indigent emigrants, must prove a great inducement to those whose helpless condition ren- ders elemosynary assistance indispensable. Thus the poor laborer of Great Britain may come with confidence to this country, and be sure to find a refuge ; his industry encouraged, his piety respected, his ambition animated : with no restraint but those laws which are the same to all, and no distinction but that which his merit may origi- natc. Who can deny that the existence of such a country, in connection with Great Britain, presents a subject for human gratulation ! Who can deny that its gigantic ad- vancement offers a field for the most rational conjecture ? I take this opportunity of returning my very sincere thanks and acknowledgements to many kind friends, for the valuable assistance they have afforded me, in the com- pilation of these Statistics. To my venerable friend, the Bishop of Kingston, whose long residence in this Province, and whose unquenchable zeal in the promotion of its welfare, has long endeared him to the great bulk of its inhabitants, I am especially obliged. He came into this Province when there were but few houses in it, performing incredible journies by land an^ by water, wading through rivers, reposing in the forests, or receiving occasional accommodation in the moveable hut of the wandering savage : he has lived to see it the abode of thousands, who, without any other It) PREFx\CE. capital than their personal labor, began to denude the soil of its primeval forests, and are now owners of extensive, well cultivated farms, and surrounded bv all the substantial comforts of life. It has been his earnest desire to behold the industrious, but overburdened, classes from Great Britain, receiving the full meed of their laborious exer- tions here, where property is unencumbered with feudal burdens, undiminislied by quit-rents or taxes, guarded by laws equally administered, and sustained by the tutelary arm of Great Britain. Bishops McDonell and McEache- ven were amongst the first to induce emigration to Can- ada and Novascotia, by exerting their influence amongst the brave and hardy Highlanders, when quitting their native mountains, not to desert their ancient banner of St. Andrew, but take up their abode in a Colony of the British Crown. And notwithstanding one of the most abandoned men that ever disgraced the human native or race, has been exerting himself for years, to sever the connection between this Province and the Parent State, yet I believe the great bulk of ihe people are quite satis- : fied with thfc benevolent intentions of the British govern- , nient towards this Colony ,' exemplified, as it is, in every measure that could tend to prori^te its prosperity, and crowned by the luminous instructions of Lord Glenelg to the present talented Governor of the Province, Sir F. B. fi Head, in the satisfactory declaraticn, that her unrivalled Constitution shall be firmly upheld. These base dema- gogues have fully satisfied the public of their revolution- ^: ary views, and are only supported by those whose aim is destruction, anarchy, and rebellion. They have sounded ' Alecto's horn in a peaceful and prospering Province, re- tarded its improvement, and checked emigration for some time, and despoiling and destroying, to the utmost of their power, the ^rnits of industry, and the hopes of advance- PREFACE. n nient, of thousands of enterprising, well aflfectcd sul)- jccts. V ^ ^ . *' Thim the pestilent Upae, tlic hydra of trees, Its hough o'er the wilderness spreads. And with livid cuntag-ioii polUiting the breeze, ' ' Its mildewing influenee sheds ;" ' " ''"^' But now tiKit tlic knavery and wicked desit^ns of these men are discovered, who have made "a fraudulent trade of their politics, under the illusive pretext of patriotism," it is to be hoped that the wise policy of the British govern- ment will cause the cessation of political agitation, and induce British subjects to embark their capital in Canada. It is this that will enrich her fields, build up her villages, populate her towns, and add vvealth and magnificence to her cities. It is only wicked agitators, and incipient re- bellion, that can arrest her, midway in her career. She holds within her own bosom the materials, and occupies the elevated station that qiui?!fie3 her for the noble gran- deur of her destiny. Let her policy of internal improve- ment, then, be continued — let the mother country receive the grateful homage of loyal subjects, then will the benig- nant sway of Great Britain be felt, and the bcnificient effects of her legislation will fall, like the dews of heaven, fertilizing and enriching all within its influence. Steam- boats and schooners will more and more crowd the har- bors on the lakes — the canals and rail roads will be cov- ered with merchandize — new villages, towns and cities will be constantly springing into existence, realizing the following beautiful and almost prophetic lines of the poet: •* Come, bright Improvement! on the car of Time, And rule the spacious world from clime to clime ; ■-^' Thy handmaid arts shali eery wild explore, . v- Trace every wave, and culture evcryshorc. On Erie's banks, where tigers steal along. And the dread Indian chants a dismal song, " Where human fiends on midnight errands walk, 12 PREFACE. And bathe in bcains the murderous tomahawk : There shall the flocks on thymy pasture stray, And shepherds dance at Summer's opening day ; Each wand'ring genius of the lonely glen Shall st^ to view the glittering haunts of men ; And silent>ratch| on woodland heights around. The village ^urfew, as its tolls profound/' -. em:-: m ', •v *.4 ■»!>■ 4^-- i'-*'^^ .---p )-. ■ ' 1 I 7- ' CHAPTER I. 't< s* The fearful excitement which existed, on the subject of Colonial Slavery, in England in 1832, as it compelled the Government to legislate upon it, with a view to its final extinction, cannot be speedily forgotten. Having determined to change my residence from England, for some of the Colonies of Great Britain, I was most agreea- bly surprised in meeting with an intelligent and libera) West India Planter, who had resolved on visiting Upper Canada, in order to make it his future residence, if the soil, climate, and other advantages were such as he had been induced to expect from the writings of those indi- viduals who had resided in that country. Until that time» New South Wales had been the object of my choice ; but the kind invitation which I received from my valued and esteemed friend,'to visit his property in the West Indies and afterwards accompany him to America, quickly induced me to change my mind. I confess that the lectures which I had heard in England, from the hired agents of the anti-Slavery society, and the natural abhorrence with which Englishmen contemplate a state of bondage, had induced ine to form a very strong opinion on that subject, extremely hostile to the West India interest. My friend never obtruded the subject on me, it was one to him of a painful character, as his natural benevolence of disposi- tion, and ardent love of liberty, at once compelled him to admit, and acknowledge that Slavery was theoretically, 14 WEST INDIES. Utterly indispensable; whilst his susceptibility was much affected by the exaggerated and interested accounts j:!;iv(Mi of its pretended manifold horrors and practical iniscliicfs. In the County of Essex, which I had just left, at the annual meeting of the Maldon Whig Club, Mr, Honey- wood, a gentleman of talent and liberality, experienced no inconsiderable portion of disapprobation, for having ventured to interpose a few words in behalf of the slave proprietors. These circumstances produced a powerful impression on my mind, and induced me to take notes of passing occurrences. We sailed from Gravesend in the brig Retrench, on Saturday morning, Nov. 17th, 1832, and from adverse winds, and fog, were compelled to drop anchor off the Sluice house, Canvey Island. We left anchorage on Sun- day morning, at 10 o'clock— . kept tacking about —made but little progress, and cast anchor again at four o'clock, off Shoebury Ness. On Monday we sailed at six o'clock, but the fog increased so much, that we were compelled to come to anchorage again at ten. On Tuesday we met the ships Talvera, and Calypso, making for Chatham, to be repaired, in consequence of the injury they had sustained during the fog, whilst engaged in watching the coast of Holland. We came to anchor at Deal, which presents a handsome appearance from the sea. Walmer Castle, immediately contiguous to it, is a fine structure, the residence of the Master of the Cinque Ports. We left Deal on Wednesday at two o'clock, and arrived at Ports- mouth on the following afternoon. During these few days I had suffered most severely from sickness ; the ner- vous system was so disturbed as to prevent me from slee- ping, and even after landing, the vertiginous afiection aiising from the tremulous and undulating rocking of the ship, still for some period remained unabated. We were much [;iv(Mi hiefs. t the onoy- Diiccd aving slave verfiil ites of h, on j verse )ff the I Sun- -made clock, clock, pelled /e met tham, y had g the which aimer cture, e left orts- few e ner- II slee- lection of the were WEST INDIES. 1.^ iletaiued some time at anchor, opposite Hyde, from the prevalence of adverse winds ; the motion of the ship, when at anchor, in a rough sea, is extremely disagreeable. I'rom our detention, an opportunity was afforded me of visiting a Convict ship, then taking in stores at Ports- mouth. There were arrangements in her, for conveying two hundred and eighty criminals to New South Wales. The manner in which the ship was fitted up, combined security with comfort. The holds, in which the convicts sleep, were connmodious : their allowance of food very liberal, and of the best quality, and every indulgence, con- sistent with their safety, is extended towards them, if their conduct is orderly and well behaved. The unfortu- nate creatures were taken on board the ship, during our stay at Portsmouth : they gave three hearty cheers as they left the land of their fathers ; most of them for ever. The government, willing to show them every kindness, orders the ship to remain off land for ten or twelve days, In order that they may communicate with their friends. On the 5th of December we weighed anchor, and from that time until the 7th, we were struggling through the channels — at one time in danger of being becalmed, and at others endeavoring to make the best of violent and unfavorable winds, until at length on the 7th we swept past the land's end, and the famed white cliff's of Eng- land receded from our sight. The deadly and incessant sickness under which I labored, I will not attempt to de- scribe. In another place, I will suggest some remedies for its alleviation. Our voyage was marked by no pecu- liarity. T was however greatly amused, at a long conver- sation we sustained, with another ship, the Enchantress, a free trader, carrying out emigrants to New South Wales, The system of interrogation and answer is effected by a species of telegraph, with flags numbered for that purpose;' 16 WEST INDIES. the facility with which it is done, must prove of immense utility to mariners. By the 18th of December we were in warm latitudes, and nothing could exceed in beauty the rising and setting sun. The orb of day, In Southern climes, o'er ocean's waveless field, Sinks sweetly smiling : not the fainted breath Steals o'er the unruffled deep ; the clouds of eve Reflect unmoved the lingering beam of day ; And vesper's image on the western main Is beautifully still. * The weather was remarkably calm, and warm ; the gram- pusses were frisking about the ocean, amusing us with their frolicsome gambols, and we also observed during the continuance of this serenity many birds. Ihere is something disagreeable in the glare of the sea in a com- plete calm, the motion of the ship is unpleasant, and the perpetual flapping of the sails annoying from its monotony. And there the sea I found Calm as a cradled child in dreamless clumber bound. Here the ship made a full scop. *Dayeame, and went, and came, and brought no wind!' **And there she lay, morning, noon and night, rocking and rolling on ti)e huge, lazy ocean, which, smooth as a polished mirror or a lady's brow, on the surface, still hove up and down with the ceaseless, majes- tic, and very uncomfortable underswell of the Atlantic. There is noth- ing else like that in nature. You that have not seen it, imagine your- selves looking at a boundless and uneven pastoral country, divested of hedge or tree : then imagine the multitudes of meadows beneath your eye rising slowly and gracefully to an equality with the hilMops, and then declining again into long sweeping valleys or abrupt dells, and you have some slight idea of the Atlantic in a calm. It is unquestiona- bly sublime, (for a little bit,) the image of slumbering power, etc. ; but I rather think that if Job had been tried upon it for any length of time, there would have been a different version of his history at this day." Now this lulling about, as Coleridge says, * As idle as a painted ship Upon a painted ocean.' WEST INDIES. 17 5 grain- is with during here is a com- and the notony. oiling on r a lady'a ss, majes- re is Doth- fine your- livested of leath your -topsi and dells, and questiona- , etc. ; but th of time, is day." w On Christmas day we came into the trade winds, the breezes were strong, and the ship sailed along majestically wiih a large press of canvass on her. On the 30th we crossed the line ; the sailors were kind enough to spare me from their customary ablutions, as I had given them wherewith to offer up an atonement to Neptune, in the form of grog. On the 5th of January we saw an eclipse of the moon, from the commencement to its final disap- pearance ; it was very distinct, and enabled the Captain to test the accuracy of his chronometer, by comparing the beginning and end of the eclipse with the time stated in the Nautical Almanack. He found it perfectly exact, the difference of time in the latitude and longitude we were in, was somewhat more than three hours. On the 7th we dined off a leg of mutton, kept nine days — it was of the last of a sheep we brought from the Isle of Wight, and proved remarkably sweet and tender. We were then in latitude N 16 ® 17'. I mention this, because it is very sin- gular, that if a sheep brought from the West Indies were killed in a still more northern latitude, it could not be preserved untainted for upwards of two days. This has been frequently noticed in the ships homeward bound. On the 13th the Captain calculated on making land, anxious on account of my enfeebled state, I was on deck as early as four o'clock in the morning, and was sorely disappointed at finding that he could not observe the most remote appearance of it. He h- .1 put the ship on easy canvass, during the night, from his conviction that we could not be far from laud. When broad day light ap- peared, he ordered all necessary sail to be made, and the lad who was sent up to the mast head to unfurl the sails, suddenly beheld the distant coast, and exclaimed greatly to our joy, that he saw the land a point and a half on the starboard bow. It proved as he said, and we dropped $ WEST INDIES. anchor at one oV'lock in Carlisle Bay, Barbados. The first point of land that we ascertained distinctly, is called Moncrieff, situate in the parish of St. John's. It is a bold eminence, and has a signal post communicating with Cot- ton Hill, Granade Hall, and Gun Hill in St. George's parish. It is one, of a range of hills, objects of great beauty in St. John's. The Cocoa nut trees fringing the shores : the splendid breakcrF^, failed liovv Bells, extending a con- siderable distance into the sea, and the dazzling whiteness ol the beach, were all objects of delight to eyes accustom- ed to the sight of nought but sea and water ibr forty days. 71^7 nisi pontus et aer. All along the coast, Cocoa nut trees were growing, but much fewer than before the great hurricane, they wxre still, however, remaining in sufficient numbers to render the shore an object of deep interest and great beauty. Before rounding a point of the Island, called Needham's Point, we caught a glimpse of Carlisle Bay. It forms both a commodious and safe harbor, there were many ships at anchor, waiting the sugar harvest, and being Sunday, they were very gaily decorated with their res- pective colors, pendants and ensigns, and formed an im- posing and beautiful appearance. The bay is not very spaciop^, but the anchorage is considered good, numbers of ships always laying there in complete safety. The carenage is protected by a fine and very substantial pier. TUe view of the garrison and naval hospital, the houses and churches of Bridge Town — the bold headlands of the interior of the island — the gaily dressed shipping in the bay, men of war, merchantmen, and coasting schooners — . the crowds of negroes — the appearance of the trees, shrubs, and flowers — the highly cultivated fields sloping ^j to the water's edge, were all alike objects of novelty and 4> gratification to me, to which an additional ze^t was given n. i K\ % i'.f WEST INDIES. \9 by once more being on terra firma* On going up the country to my rriend's estate, I was forcibly struck and much deJighted with the neat appearance and laughing faces of the negroes, who were enjoying themselves in groups along the road side, many of them carrying bask- ets of fruit on their heads for sale, it being Sunday they passed the day as they j)leased. The various plantations we passed, the collection of negro habitations, the number of windmills, and sugar houses, the extreme richness and splendour of the flowers and trees, were all novel and de- lightful objects. Indeed throughout the island was to be seen nought but the appearance of happiness, content- ment, and prosperity. * ' r i.» . f • - . .J •" . . t 111 CHAPTER 11. -.*k-- .•. f:?> »■ • ■ • 1 have stated that it was not a matter of choice with the British government whether or not they would legislate on the subject of Colonial Slavery ; this will unquestion- ably appear by a reference to the number of petitions sent to the Imperial Parliament on the matter. In the session of 1833, there were presented to the House of Commons 5,020 petitions, with 1,309,711 signatures, praying for the immediate abolition oi Slavery throughout the British do- minions. At that period, the office of Colonial Secretary was filled by an individual of distinguished talent, Lord Stanley. He wtU knew that the question must at once be boldly met, and legislative measures adopted, to pacify a people so determined as those of Great Britain, on a 20 WE»T IMDIKS. subject tuo, of all others, to the consideration of which they would not bring either reason, or fair argument ; nor on which would they allow themselves to be influenced by any considerations of policy or expediency. It was clear that the longer the measure was delayed, the greater would the excitement become, and that the party which would ultimately suffer the most, would be the planter, as every year would render their clamorous opponents bolder, and stronger, and less inclined to accede to the measure of compensation, without which it would have been one of barefaced injustice, and shameless robbery. The inhabitants of Barbados were in the highest excite- ment in anticipation of the measures which would be adopted by an administration generally adverse to their interests, and easily influenced by public clamour. They only desired that people, who readily believed every thing to their disadvantage, would come and examine into the social state existing in these islands. I mention this because I never met with an instance in which the plan- ters exhibited the least reluctance in having their system of labor thoroughly examined, but on the contrary gave full and free permission to any one to investigate and as- certain the state, condition, and treatment of the slaves. My friend's estate is about six miles from Bridge Town, and is thus mentioned by Captain Alexander: . - , % ■i^ • JS ** I spent one day at a most charming residence, Vauclusc, on a high spot, delightfully cool, commanding extensive views. The proprietor said that some Moravian Brethren had established themselves in his neighborhood, and that those of his negroes who attended the instruc- tions of that excellent fraternity, were extremely sober and industrioue. His butler had lately died, and he gave him a handsome funeral, for he had served him faithfully for many years, and the master was anx- ious to testify his respect for his servant. Shortly after this, a healthy negro refused all food, lay with his eyes open, and gasping as it were for breath ; the Doctor could discover no aliment, and it was conjectured WEST INDIES. 21 ■K ^Ik '^ thnt the butler*s funeral had lo excited his envy, that he determined to have a similar one, and to starve himself. The master came in, and nnid aloud, 'if this negro dies, I mean to throw him into a hole, and bury him with his face down.' It is almost unnecessary to add, that nhortly after this speech, the sick took up his bed and walked forth healed/' I was kindly invited by a respectable planter, Mr. E. L. Hinds, of Westmoreland, on Sunday, January 20th, to pay bind a visit, and witness a festival amongst his ne- groes, called Joan and John. It was on the occasion of the birth day of his daughter. After a very interesting ride, on arrival at his house, a large building erected since the hurricane, I observed in the forecourt, a group of negroes very gaily attired, many of them decorated with tasteful and pretty ornaments, dancing with the greatest agility, animation, and lightheartedness, and exhibiting too, great elegance and precision in their steps. Ihe music they adopt is of their own construction, one man sings, shaking at the same time a calabash half filled with the berries of a shrub called the English Plantain, Qnswering the pur- pose of shot ; another playing an instrument like a tam- bourine, and forming together admirable concord, from their well regulated discord. The negroes generally evince a great fondness for music, and readily acquire a good knowledge of it. They continued to arrive in groups the whole afternoon, all of them well, and many of them handsomely dressed. The scene was one of unusual ani- mation, their recreation and amusement joyous in the extreme, and altogether unsullied by that riotous intem- perance, and disgusting inebriation, which so often dis- figures and disgraces the peasantry of England at their rustic wakes and fairs. They handed round both cake and wine of their own making ; and fruit in trays, they were very excellent. Indeed it was altogether a very gratifying spectacle, and one I little expected to witness 22 ^ WEST INDIES. when I left England. That this danco shouhl take \\U\vc on Sunday afternoon, will appear ohjcctionabic to some, but I cannot help thinking that the Sabbath should be as well a day of recreation as of devotion : and thataft( r the performance of those religious exercises due from the crea- ture to the Creator, that it is not only blameless and lawful, but useful and expedient, that the remainder should be enjoyed in iunocept diversion. The Mosaic Sabbath commenced on the eve of the sixth day, and continued until the eve of the seventh, <*thc evening and morning were the first day." The Church of England, in observ- ing the first day of the week as the Christian Sabbath, agrees with the Church of Rome, and observes equally with thai Church, the respective eves or vigils of different festivals. She has her Easter Eve — Christmas Eve — Wliitsun Eve — and it would not be derogatory to her character for devotion, and piety, if she permitted the ex- ercise of rational and innocent recreation after the after- noon service of tlie day was ended. A Rector residing in one of the villages of Herefordshire, assured me that he had tried the experiment, and found it attended with the happiest effects. On the 9th of February I dined with the officers of the 8t. Andrew's militia, at their new Mess House erected near the sea, in the very centre of a rude and highly romantic country, called Barbadian Scotland. After leaving Vaucluse, and passing through a richly wooded and very picturesque glen, called Porey Spring, where in the midst of the rudest and most grotesque rocks, trees of every fantastic shape are beautifully inter- mingled, we continued gradually ascending, until arriving at the summit of a mountain, near Mount Hellaby, the whole of Barbadian Scotland suddenly bursts on your astonished view, exhibiting in its extent every species of romantic scenery, mountain after mountain rising above I UCbT INDIES. racli otlicr, and retiring with majestic grnce in spiral chalky rocks to the sea shore. In many parts of this luxuriant picture, where the eye is ever bcwiUIerecl in the choicest beauties, and wanders with deligiu over iht startling irregularity of its hills and dales, rude unbroken strata of rocks lean in various di- rections, over dolls of exquisur beauty, adorned with thick foilage, which in this clime is produced from a very thin coat of soil. It is in the recesses of this woodland solitude in which the witching charms of this romantic re- gion operate most forcibly on the mind. Over this am- phitheatre of hills, llowers of the most beautiful descrip- tion are to be seen, growing in all the rich variety of the most cultivated gardens, and interspersed occasionally in the clefts and in the hollows are to be seen the majestic palm, the magnificent cabbage-tree, the graceful plantain, and small fields of sugar-cane extending from the base to the very summit of the rocks. My friend who had taken me to enjoy this sylvan repast, after having arrived at the Mess House, and Introduced me to the officers, kindly preferring my gratification to his own convenience proposed that we should extend our ride, already a very fatiguing one but for the succession of beautiful scenery presented to our gaze. I was much delighted in recog- nizing, in the Surgeon of the regiment, an old friend and fellow student at the Borough Hospitals, and received from him great kindness and attention. We rode along the sea-coast several miles, enjoying on the one side the prospect of a rude, romantic chain of mountains, wild and intimidating, of the most fantastic shapes and forms, and linked in stern confederacy, exhi- biting a noble elevation : on the other, a bold sea of the most lovely blue and of transparent brightness, dashing over huge rocks, and rolling in foaming billows, as if a 24 WEST INDIES. I I succession of waterfalls graced the shores. We returned by a diflferent route, the road wild and precipitous in the extreme, sometimes running almost in a perpendicular di- rection over the beetling heights, sometimes contracting itself into a narrow and dizzy pathway, or even an abyss of appalling depth, and not unfrequently leading to passes so completely hemmed in, and overhung by masses of im- pending rock, as by obscuring the light, gave it an ap- pearance of gloom and awe. It terminated however in the exhilirating view of the rich valley in which the Mess House was situated. On our reaching the Mess House, we set down to a sumptuous dinner, at which the Colonel of the regiment, a most hospitable and benevoleiit gentle- man presided. His brother officers were most agreeable and entertaining companions, nor can 1 omit to mention Major Morris, a venerable gentleman, whose inexpressi- ble benignity of countenar.ee, and courteousness of de- meanour, cannot readily be forgotten by those who have had the pleasure of meeting him. This corps is established for the protection of tho island, against any rebellion of the slaves, every free person in the island, between the ages of sixteen and sixty, are considered eli- gible, and must serve or find a substitute. 'J his efficient force, which meets in the different Parishes, once monthly, throughout the island, has succeeded in preserving the most perfect tranquility, by the salutary awe which it has inspired. In the afternoon, I saw the funeral of a negro woman, the long procession winding along the mountain's brow had a solemn, yet picturesque effect. The mourn- ers were all very decently attired in black. On the fol- « lowing day, the most of the party met at a Maroon at the ruins of Col. Foi te's house, destroyed by the hurricane. A great battle was fought with Cocks, the scene was Ho- garth's to the very life ; the intense interest excited by it, turned in the lardi- acting abyss passes of im- n ap- ;ver in 3 Mess PJouse, Colonel ^entle- •eeable lention .pressi- of de- » who orps is ist any island, red eli- ifficient onthly, ng the li it has . negro mtain's mourn- the fol- 1 at the rricane. as Uo- d by it, t WKST INDIKS. 25 ran hardly ho credited. On the 13th of February I paid my promised visit to my friend, Dr. Ifil, at his residence called Mangrove Lodge, near Bridge Town. The house is one, of t!ie few, that in a great measure escaped the de- structive fury of the hurricane; it is beautifully embosom- ed ill trees; round the house is a fine grove of lignumvita? trees, and immediately in front, a most magnificent um- brageous mangrove tree, tlie branches of which, stretch- ing to the ground, have taken root, and form a beautiful arcade round the parent tree. 'J he hogse is named after this stately and majestic tree. On the 19th of February I breakfasted at Reed's Bav, between Hole Town and Speights. 'I he road from Vaucluse is on a gradual de- scent to Hole Town, and from thence the road runs by the sea shore to Reed's Bay. The ride is extremely pleas- ing, through a well cultivated district, and a melancholy interest is imparted to it, by the vast number of trees which the hurricane blew down and broke in every di- lection, shooting forth afresh in all the bloom and vigour of youth, in all the rude and grotesque varieties of growth, of which a tree is capable. This is more especially ob- servable in the cocoa-nut tree, manifesting its native at- tachment to the soil, for in many instances, where it was broken off at the root, some of its fibres have again struck into the earth, forming a new tree, at the end of a long lifeless trunk, making a striking contrast between lifeless- ness and life. The extreme heat of the day induced me to taste, for*the first time, the water of the green cocoa- nut. It contains an agreeable acid, and forms a delight- ful beverage, well calculated to slake the thirst induced by tropical heat. After breakfast we drove on to Speight's Town, on the west coast, and a place of considerable im» portance, and although the ride was rendered somewhat oppressive from the dazzling whiteness of the sand upon 4 it. 4 26 WEST INDIES. the beach, yet it is one possessing a succession of pleas- ing and picturesque scenery. The sea views, the planta- tions, and the smiling seats which adorn the neighbour- hood, give an air of great cheerfulness to the scene. To the right, a bold range of mountains, completely inter- secting the island, forms a fine sight; and on the left, the sea shining with a sapphire hue beneath the morning sun, and the beach fringed with graceful cocoa-nut trees form- ing a beautiful contrast. Speight's Town is a neat and well-built town, containing some good houses, but still exhibiting the desolating ravages of the last dreadful hur- ricane. The church was a complete mass of ruins. In the garden of Reed's Bay. 1 observed a beautiful cherry- tree, a species of malpighia, covered with a handsotne looking red fruit, which I found was unfit to eat. There are also many fine bread fruit-trees in this neighbourhood; they were then covered with fruit, which is esculent, and answers the purpose of bread. There are some varieties ofgooseberry much employed for a cooling drink in fe- , vers. I saw some varieties of the bean growing, trailed over lattice work, forming a beautiful vine, and producing an excellent vegetable. On returning to Vaucluse at nlght,I perceived something dark across the road; present- ly the gig was stopped by a negro, who said the road was , not passable, that it was iiecessary to take a circuitous route, for the wind which had been very high during the evening, had blown his newly erected house level with the ground, )lcas- aiita- boiir- To inter- , the I sun, form- it and C still 1 hur- I. Ill herry- dsoinc fhere rhood; It, and iricties in fe- trailed ducing use at resent- ad was cuitous ing the ?1 with CHAPTER III. ■I On ilic 23rd of February, Dr. Thomas took me with hi in to the esplanade and handsome barracks of St. Ann^s guarded by a formidable battery placed at one extremity of Carlisle Bay. The parade ground is really a magnifi- cent level, consisting of several acres of land where the troops exercise. In the erection of these barracks every possible attention has been bestowed to render them healthy, cool, and as comfortable as the climate will per- mit. We drove on to a little sea bathing village called Worthing, where the invalids from Bridge Town resort for health and bathing; it is a pleasant spot. We passed a monument erected to commemorate the unhappy vic- tims ol the hurricane, who perished in the barracks, and whose remains were interred at that place. The shore of the sea is still thickly indented with cocoa-nut trees, al- though huge prostrate trees, and immense roots turned up, exhibiting awful evidences of the horror of the storm, are strewn with a melancholy profusion in every part. — There is a wild grape, indigenous to the isljsmd, called the sea grape, growing abundantly in this neighbourhood; — the splendid palm, and the beautiful, though deadly, manchinell are here in numbers, and form, by their beau- ty and variety, a great ornament to the little bathing place called Worthing. We returned round the Bay, over a most miserable bridge, through a part of Bridge Town, and drove to Dr. Cutting's to breakfast. 1 stopped with Dr. Cutting some days; he is truly a most intelligent phy- sician, and seems as devoted to the interests of science, as to the prosperity of Barbados, He is greatly esteemed by all classes of the people. He possesses an excellent VVIuST INDIKH. irniscuni ol natural curiosiiics, cDiisisting of great varic- lirs of shells, minerals, ^coloii^ical spiclinins, (hied mous- es, iunf];i, insects, stulicd hirds and other sfXTnncns oi mu- furnl philosophy, tof:;ether with a well se'iceted library. — His house may he termed a fine mansion, surrounded by rt delightful garden, where with the greatest care and in- dustry he has collected some choice botanical varieties, and several beautiful English shrubs and Howers. He has also little reservoirs of water in which he preserves some fine fish, [lis house is rendered extremely cool, by its spacious rooms, being well protected by a deep veran- dah. On the 'JlGth of February I dined and spent the day with Mr. Hcvvett at his estate called Bloomsbury, in the immediate vicinity of Scotland. The road winds round the skirts of Vaucluse estate, and commands a fine pano- ramic view of the delightful and highly cultivated slopes of St. George's, St, Thomas', and St. Michael's Parishes. After passing round several fields 1 came suddenly on a deep ravine, the descent of which was by a very narrow and precipitous path, formed like steps; ponderous crags almost over canopy part of the way, tremendous masses of broken rock hanging over it in azizzag manner, from which many varieties of trees and shrubs, and flowers were growing, turning it from the character of savage de- solation, into that of rude, romantic beauty. Here I saw the native bearded fig-trce, from whence Barbados de- rives its name. The branches of this tree hanging pen- dent from a huge rock, and throwing out numberless small threads or filaments which continue growing until thev reach the ground, they then strike root. Thus from one branch of the original tree, many other trees are formed, and this is termed the beard of the fig. The rocks in this guUey have, decidedly, a stalactiucal form. This romantic ravine, the scene of many a rendezvous, is term- varic- rnoss- oi'nu- ary. — loil by ind iii- I'icties, , He iscrvcs )ol, by veraii- heday in the round pano- slopes rishes. y on a larrow crags nasses , from lowers ge de- I saw ►s de- pen - small thev n one rmcd, :ks in This icrm- ih WEST INDIES. 29 C(i from that circmnstancc Social Rock. Stupendous de- clivities, cliistcriu^ groves, tangled pathways, and flow- cry retreats surround you on every side. The unbroken solitude and overawing gloom of this diversified defile, rendered it an excellent spot for a maroon party. The huge rock termed Social, hangs pendent from the highest over-hanging brink, out of which several trees are grow- ing, forming a spacious canopy, an effectual screen from tlie sun, and a perfect protection from rain. In many of these deep gullies muffled as they are in the luxuriant drapery of tropical shrubs and trees, and ren- dered almost inaccessible, many runaway negroes have lemained secreted for years, baffling and defying every search made for them ; the militia have been compelled, sometimes, to go out in exploring parties to ferret them out, an object of great danger, difliculty and exertion. After diverging from the gully at the opposhe side, passing some trees, called the red bean tree, covered with the most brilliant crimson flowers, the whole of Barbadian Scot- land suddenly bursts on the sight, and with the fine, bold blue sea beyond it, forming a splendid coup d'oeil. The view on each side was a perfect picture of itself, greatly heightened and improved by the contrast ; the sweeping and richly cultivated slopes of St. George's extending to Bridge Town, the picturesque appearance of the distant town with the shipping in the bay, opposed to the rude, rocky and sylvan character of Scotland, the lofty and the gentle feafures of the scene blend harmoniously together. I saw all the fine views in the island, but this appeared to me the most interesting by far, as the bold, varied and rugged features of Scotland are seen to much greater advantage, when contrasted with the soft, richly cultivated swells^ and more polished country in the opposite direc- tion. The sea breezes which perpetually blow over the =sA:^A so WEST INDIES. islaiul, renders the ride most agreeable, because it is gt ii- crally cool. The east wind is that which prevails here, and indeed is almost the only one that blows. llaj)|)i!y for the inhabitants, it brings with it a freshness thai enables them to resist the burning rays of a porpciidiciilnr sun. The cool breezes from the east, commence about three o'clock in the morning, and become stronger as tht^ sun approaches the zenith. This phenomenon is doubt- less attributable to the action of the sun on the atmosphere, the rarefication of which by that planet in its course from cast to west, occasions a current of air in the same direc- tion. The sun set of this evening was exquisite, the tops of the mountain, seen from the valley, seemed tinged with a pale crimson, while the distant sea, seen through the vista, in the hour of its reposing beauty, and hushed in the calm of the evening, appeared gleaming like "a sea of jasper strewn with celestial roses." I never beheld a grander spectacle. February 27th, breakfasted with the Hon. N. Forte, the Speaker of the House of Assembly, at his house on Bennett's estate, the ride to which embraces a view of the sea the entire distance. It is a very charming residence, admirably adapted for the climate ; a beautiful avenue of trees has been recently planted along the road leading to the house. On the 28th I again passed the day at Reed's Bay, and returned by moonlight along the coast. There is in all countries a charm in the chaste and subdued light of a moonlight scene, but it is more peculiarly fascinating in a tropical climate, its soft silvery hues contrasted with the dark foilage of the palm and cocoa nut trees, and shedding a silvery lustre over a beautifid expanse o» sta, renders it doubly attractive. It seemed as if on this evening WEST INDIES. 31 IS gc Il- ls lirrc, lappily ss i\]ii\: idiciilnr 2 abotit r as tlu^ 5 doubt- )sphere, sc from e direc- te, the ! tinged through hushed ^ "a sea chcld a . Forte, ouse on V of the ddence, eniic of ding to Reed's There ^d light inating; d with es, and Oi sta, on this •J* Autii opening cloudu, I saw emerge The luveiiest moon that ever silvered o'er, A shell for Neptune's goblet. It is certainly dangerous in Europeans to expose them- selves incautiously at moonlight, from the very heavy dews which take place, but although imprudent, it is almost irresistible, it imparts such a grateful coolness to the system, and steals over the senses, after enduring the scorching rays of a vertical sun. The ruins of Hole Town exhibited a very curious picture by moonlight — broken rafters — heaps of stones — walls partly standing, resem- bling rocks — stumps and limbs of trees — new houses- houses in progress of erection —and as the moonbeams fell, imparting every variety of light and shade, the effect was romantic and picturesque. *'How beautiful this Night ! the balmest sigh Which vernal zephyrs breathe in Evening's ear, Were discord to the speaking quietude That wraps this moveless scene. Heaven's ebon vault, Studded with Stars unutterably bright. Through which the xMoon's unclouded grandeur rolls, Seems like a canopy which Love had spread, To curtain her sleeping world. Yon gentle hills. Robed in i garment of untrodden snow ; Yon darksome walls, whence icicles depend So stainless, that their white and glittering spears Tinge not the Moon's pure beam ; yon castled steep Whose banner hangeth o'er the time-worn tower So idly, that wrapt Fancy deemeth it A metaphor of Peace — all form a scene Where musing Solitude might love to lift Her soul above this sphere of earthliness ; Where Silence undisturbed might watch alone. So cold, so bright, so still." Went round to Col. Forte's house: he is a well informed and most hospitable man, precisely the character fitted for a Speaker of a public Assembly, possessing great patlencei liberality, impartiality, knowledge, united with a most 32 WEST INDIES. courteous deportment. He is so devotedly attached to Barbados, that he has never quitted the island, even tor a day, and from his long residence and general intelligence, he has acquired a practical knowledge of the Colony, and possesses an intimate acquaintance with its wants, its interests, and its inhabitants : he has always so discharged his duty, as to have secured to him the lasting esteem, confidence and regard of all parties in the island. On INTarch 1st, I rode with Dr. Ifill to an eminence called Irish Town, it exhibits a very powerful resemblance to the Devils Punch Bowl on the Portsmouth road ; there is a very fine panoramic view of Scotland from this point. I saw the wild sugar canes growing here in great abund- ance : they are a species of reed and are of great utility in roofing houses. On the 3rd, I went to see another negro dance. It is certainly a spectacle in which you can trace a great deal of the negro character. The extreme accur- acy with which they preserve the time in the dance — their intense devotion to music — their extraordinary vehemence — the violence of their gesticulations are eminently char- acteristic. They display a great fondness for dress, and come to the dance with a profusion of ornaments and trinkets, which you might look for in vain amongst the labourers of any other countries. They possess a great deal of cunning, seizing every opportunity, when they think they are unobserved, to weary you with their un- ceasing importunity for money. They invariably make a collection for the president of their feast, who provides cake, wine, noyeau, and other, refreshments :^they cer- tainly enjoy their dances in the fullest|spirit of enjoyment. On the 4th of March I accompanied a party to visit one of the greatest natural curiosities in the Island, a deep and extensive cavern, termed Cole's Cave. i, It is situated in the parish of St, Thomas. The entrance to it is on the t-^. ' >:-'>^.. I ■H WEST INDIES. 33 siilo of a steep hill, upon an estate called Walk's. The giviit alniiulance of rock here is very remarkable ; the roads are carried through deep ravines, and the sides of the rocks being embellished with staFactitical columns, renders tiieir appearance very singular and striking. Amid the crags of tlic rocks, trees are constantly jutting out : and the beauty iind profusion of the wild flowers aston- ishing. The cntrauct! to the ravern is difficult, being \wy preci[)lrous and rugged. We were escorted by two guides, who took good care to be well furnished with lights. The huge rock, forming the canopy to the en- trance of the cavern, has a similar appearance to Thorpe Cloud in Dove Dale, Derbyshire. At a short distance from the entrance to the cave, you arrive at a spring of water, boldly gushing from the rock, and continues throughout its subterranean course, forming large pools of water, sufficiently spacious to enjoy the pleasure of bathing. The stream issues through a sinuous and devi- ous course, until, as it is supposed, it disembogues itself into the Indian Kivcr near Bridge Town. Amongst the several reasons adduced in favor of this supposition, one is very cogent, that when all the pools and streams of the Island have been dried up in an excessive drought, tiiis river has had its usual full supply of water. The en- trance to the cave is narrow, and requires caution from the number of large stones. It soon however opens to a very considerable height : in many parts of the cavern, the water perpetually dropping and issuing through the rock, forms numberless beautiful petrifactions or stalac- tites, resembling, in their gothic, spiral forms, the roof of a richly carved cathedral. The route of the cavern is by the water, climbing from crag to crag, the rocks forming a steep bank to this subterranean river, but the exertioii required in a close cavern, renders ah extended survey 6 S4 >VEST INDIES. cUrricult and luii^aiiij:. On (luitiin- ilic cave the whole nmss ol" rock, luoUiu^ at ii iVum bLkn\ , is stcii to the greatest ailvuiita^e, i'uv although steep, riigj^eil, and une- qual, il iscovcieiiin every part, uith bcautiliil parasitical phinls haiJ.i;iii^ piiident in all directions. The entrance to the cuvei-n is al the hotloin of one of those deep and ronianllc ravines, which iiilerbcct the island throughout. Alter ,;ai buin;^ }our vva} in tiie cavern about tiir(C hun- dred vard:s, it divides into two courses, one, which is termed tiic dry tavern, bein^ without water ; the other, hav in^ a torrent oi" water always rushing through it, being abundantly supi)Jieii with springs. It is said that a party ol' genlicmcn, w ho w cut to visit this cavern,[ralling over sonic of tiic large disjointed stones, their lights became exiinguiahed, and after groping about in worse than Cim- mcrian darkness for a length of time, took the wrong direction, and passed into the dry cavern, from whencu they issued, aftci being severely bruised and'scratchcd by crawling about, and nuich exhausted, at a considerable distance from the entrance to the cavern, and in a differ- ent ravine. On tlic, 8th oi March 1 accompanied Dr. ifill to his estate, Ilaggarts, in Scotland ; the ride to it is extremely pleasing, varied and romantic. It is a continued succes- sion of hill and dale, with a bold sea view to grace the distance. I called on Dr. Harper, in company with Dr, liill ; he is an excellent botanist, and accompanied us in a ride over the hills immediately fronting the sea, and pointed out many beautiful botanical varieties. The views from these lofty hills are extremely magnificent, blending in the most delightful variety every degree of hill, dale, iueandering stream, beautiful woods and bold sea. On the summits of these hills, my attention was forcibly di- rected to an immense quantity of fruit growing on a thick iferr*.. uliolr j to ihc ul uiii> :, usitlcal id'aiicc up aij(l 4 ghoiit. c hun- ich is oilier, , being I party g over ccamc Ciiii- wronjv hence led by erable ' diiKcr- to his emely ucces- :e the JiDr. us in , and views tiding dale, |H On ■ ly di- ^M thick ■ hu5.1j, it rosrmli'^'d, in if*"' ippraranrr. the ')»• )an plum, iiaving the same rirli, purple bloom, but uiiliK thr t dc'i- c'iDUs fruit, its taste is vrry ii^sipi'.l — it is tern "d the at pork fniit. I again dinrd at tlir IVIcss House, with the oilicers of (he St. Andrew's llrgimrnt, and loceived from them the same warm hospitality 1 had mot with on n pre- ceding occasion. On the Oih, I accompanied Dr. I fill VEST i.vorr.s. two or thrco good rains cause a crop. I did n(»t obsrrvf it growing in any other part of {\\v. island, with tlio excep- tion of St. Philip's parish, and at Sir Charles Smith's, h\ E., who had a larii;e stark ot' hay from his cuhivation nf it. I suppose that the cane is loo vahiahlo a eiop to jier- init its being superseded by any other. On the lOtI), I went to survey the north point of the island, called the Great Head, from whence ships homeward bound take their departure. It is an iron bound coast, the sea very deep, and the rocks extremely precipitous and rugged. There are immense quantities ot' fish close in the shore, and nutnbers of racoons and monkies infest the gullies. Dr. IfiU had kindly invited Dr. Bishop — another of niy fellow students from the Borough liospitals — a young man of great promise from his extensive acquirements, and indefatigable perseverance, (and whose death, since 1 left the island, must be a source of deep regret to his nu- merous friends) — to accompany us to the animal flower cave. On reaching the very verge of the land, I was quite astonished, and somewhat alarmed on being told, that it was the entrance to the cavern, the cavern itself being a deep vault underneath, so that in reality the only road, or path to the entrance, is nothing more than a descent, down a steep, perpendicular rock, hanging over a sea, twenty fathoms deep, and into which, one false step must inevitably plunge the adventurous visitor. The actual entrance to this romantic cavern is on the side of this steep rock, but having determined to gratify my curiosity, had the rock been as steep as Olympus, and the cavern dark as Erebus, I would not have been deterred from my pur- pose. I cannot help admitting that I felt some degree of apprehension, when I found the rocks on which I was compelled to hang, to effect my descent, were sharp and pointed, and overhanging a deep, roaring, tempestuous WE3T fNDlES. 57 5;o«i, tlic spray o{ whicli almost touched my fixM, as I per- formed the perilous luidertnking. On entering the first cavern, my atu iition was arrested by a deep, large natu- ral basin, in the centre of which was a huge stone, resem- bling a round f beef; it was honored with the appellation in consequence of the similitude. In this cavern arc sev- eral large poo's of water, in which it is customary for the visitors to ba le. On emerging from it to proceed to the second and larger cave, the route is over a rock still more precipitous and rugged than the former ; it is termed the horses back, the centre part being rounded, the footing is secured by the sharp terminating points of the rock. In this cavern there is a large basin of water, presenting a most beautiful aj)pearance. The floor appears in a rich variety of colors, resembling a Turkey carpet, arising from the crypty-gamous plant, with which these rocks abound. It is in this cavern, where the animal flower grows so lovely, and exquisitely pencilled, and greatly similar to the passion flower. I think it is a species of the gorgonia. There can be no question that it is a zoophyte. Captain Alexander thus speaks of it : "There is a rock with beau- tiful varieties attached to it, of that remarkable zoophyte, the hydra — they appear like petals of the marigold, of purple, yellow, and green colours, to attract the insect prey, but when touched, they contract and become invisi- ble. This remarkable production forms the connecting link betueen the animal and vegetable kingdoms of that extraordinary gradation, or chain of beings proceeding from the rudest unorganized matter up to man." With some winds, the water of the sea rolls with resistless fury into these caverns, and a person bathing in one of their natural basins might be swept out, unless they were cau- tious. The sea beneath is very deep, large sharks coming immediately below the cavern. March 16th, rode to the 38 wi:sT INPIKS. signal post in St. George's Parish, called Ciun hill. The road Iroiii V\'\iicliisc estate to St. George's is through a deep ravine. V'aucluse received its name iVoni its present proprietor having seen it, the first time, from this glen ; and being then in a very bad state of healtli, and looking forward to it, as a retreat, from its beautiful and salubri- ous situation, environed with hills and embosomed in trees ; he thought it no inappropriate cognomen, to give it the name of Petrarch's favorite retreat. The country lirre is deemed the most rich and fertile in the island, it consists altogether of undulating slopes, covered with canes, corn, and sweet potatoes. Every patch of land is carefully cultivated, and its returns are most extraordi- nary. On the 17th went down very early in the morning to Hole Town to bathe ; saw a very curious fish called the Ink fish, which, on striking it with a whip, threw out a jet of black fluid greatly resembling ink, it discolored the water considerably. It would seem to be an instinc- tive method of self defence, as by darkening the water it eludes its pursuer, and effects its escape* There is a great quantity of fish caught on this coast, the grouper, the snapper, the rock hind, the kingfish, the sweet lip, the Spanish mackarel, the progey, the grivilli, ^c. &c. On the 1 8th I was afforded an excellent opportunity of witnessing the spectacle of a negro funeral. On reaching the house, 1 observed several long iorms covered with mourners, all most decently and respectably clad in black. Many females wxre also assembled in black crape dresses, with black bonnets and veils. Groups of negroes contin- ued arriving for an hour; at length a large party having congregated, they formed themselves into a procession. They had an abundance of fruit, cake, wine and refresh- ments. The hearse, a sort of funeral car, drawn by a black horse, containing the coffin, which was covered with he a cnt m ; ing ' jn i itry 1 AVEiT INDIES. 30 jiiiull oniaiuciits, and sunrioaiucii by a large pall, went ijiyt : then the mourners followed, rorming ti parade, two bv two, carr}ing uiMbrcllas, and extondiii^^ a long dis- tance: the procession was closed by two njournrrs on horseback. The whole apjjcaraiice was decent and res- pectable, and resembled more the funeral of a wealthy iradcsman, than a slave. Tiierc Is iio characteristic more strongly marked in the negro than tliolr superstitions ven- eration for the dead, and it is impossible to pay them a higher conspliment, or please them niore, than by attend- ing the funeral of any of tlieir deceased relative? or friends. They manifest a great desire to have their friends buried in the same church-yard with their white brethren, and are very grateful in obtaining that permission. On the 20th went to dine with Mr, Thomas, who man- ages many estates in the island, at an estate called Strachan's in liarbadian Scotland. The property be- longs to Mr. Caldecott: —the house presents only the ap- pearance of a heap of ruins; it stood in a very delightful situation. A lofty hill immediately at the back, screening it from the scorching beams of the morning sun : below it a very deep, precipitous, and most romantic glen, at the bottom of which the Scotland river meanders over a bed of huge stones; whilst immediately opposite, a large wood, extending from the summit of a mountain down to the very edge of the river, clothed with every variety ot beautiful trees, —the mammoe-apple — the clam cherry — the bay tree, — the cabbage palm — the locust — the bullet — the cedar — the mahogany — and the rich and magnificent silk cotton-tree. Throughout the wood, the vine of the water lemon hangs pendent from the trees in every di- rection, adorned with the most lovely flowers, and bear- ing a delicious and cooling fruit. The side view is very rich, varied, and c^xtensivc, the distant blue sea with its 40 WEST INDIES. beautiful white spray dashing on the beach, scou throiigli ihe vista ot'a bold range of hills — the winding Scotland river terminatins: in a lagoon near the sea, renders it a ve- ry jiicturesque scene. On this estate are several tar springs which I examined; there are sevcr;d pools made to contain water in those parts where this biiiuninous ex- udation issues from the earth: the green napilia rises to the surface, and is skimmed oi)' to be preserved in jars for exportation. On this propeny alone upwards ofiivc hundred gallons of naptha is collected annually, and forms an article of great value. There are also many fnie beds of pines growing in this neighboui hood ; the red argilla- ceous earth of Scotland seems particularly adapted for their growth and cidtivation The scite invariably se- lected for a pine plantation is a western a-pcct, on the side of a hill, in order that they may receive the benefit of the afternoon Sim. They have a beautiful appearance, and are greatly esteemed for their exquisite flavour. 'J he activity of the negro is truly astonishing : I beheld a re- markable instance of it this day. Mr. Thomas had oc- casion to send a negro boy to Bridge Town, a distance of twelve miles from this estate, and a very hilly and fa- tiguing country to travel. 'I he day was intensely hot, without a breath of air. The lad started a little before eight o'clock in the morning, and to my great astonish- ment, returned a little after two in the afternoon, with his tray on his head, and seemed so regardless of his journey as afterwards to wait at dinner, and actually volunteered to take a note to a neighboring estate, three miles distant, during the afternoon. I rode back in the evening over Mount Hellaby, which is the highest land in the island, about 1200 feet above the level of the sea ; but although the view is very commanding and extensive, embracing a rich variety of land and water scenery: it is not equal to # llgli •1 and ve- tar lade ex- J s to 1 jars 'live t 3niis beds ;illa. for $, 'i^iwMm WEST INDIES. 41 ;hat from llacklcstoii's ClilF and scvewil other places in iho Islaiul. From the appearance of many parts of Scot- land, Dr. Maycock cnlertahis the opinion, that it is the crater t)f an extinguished volcano. On the 22nd, whilst at Flolc Town, enjoying my morning's bathe, a haul of fisii was drawn up, amongst them one called Chubb, of the most splendid color. The head and tail have the yellow, blue, scarlet, and green beautifully intermingled, like the plumage of a parrot. It is not much esteemed for eating. On the 23d of March, Mr. Martindale, a gentleman of great respectability, at whose house I had breakfasted, was obliging enough to take me with him to see the vari- ous objects of interest and curiosity to be seen at Bridge Town. It extends, at least, two miles round Carlisle bay, and is about half a mile in depth, containing upwards of 20,000 inhabitants. In the centre there is a square with a statute of the illustrious Nelson. The first place which I visited was the new Gothic Chapel of St, Paul's, then in progress of erection, completed I should suppose long ore this. The architecture is of the purest Gothic, and reflects great honor on the builder. It promises to be, when finished, an elc^^ant, light, commodious, and beauti- ful chapel. It is most admirably constructed for full ven- tilation, and will accommodate, with convenience, a thou- sand persons. I should su[)posc that it is intended to be surmounted and ornamented with a cross, in conformity with the fashion, lately introduced in England, in the erection of the new churches and cha[)ols belonging to the establishment. I went from St. PuuPbi to see a large Watering Place in the Bay, belonging to Mr. Martindale, and which has been in the possession of his family for many years. It consists of two very commodious reser- voirs, su})plied by an excellent spring, yielding abundance of water, of a very superior quality. It supplies all the 6 'I'll Ji $ 42 WEST INDIES. shipping ill Carlisle Bay with fresh water, and a spot more conveniently adapted for that purpose could not have been selected. The long trough, used for the purpose of conveying the water into the shij)s, leads from the main reservoir, wliich is built with stone, it is conveyed by means of a large pipe into this reservoir, iVom the one which receives the water, as it exudes from the s^pring. The water is carried into this trough by the aid of a windmill, which, when set in motion, (haws it up, and altogether supersedes the necessity of pumping and manual labor in suppl}ing the various ships. Indeed this method of drawing up water is of general use in the island, even for the purpose of sugar making, distillation, bathing, &c. i^c. 1 next proceeded to visit the Alms House, a quadranglar range of buildings, erected and supported by the benevolent gentlemen of Bridge Town, for the pur]>ose of succouring and sheltering the poor, indigent, aged, and disabled white inhabitants, who have no means of maintaining tin aiselves. Seamen, thrown oat of employment, or wiio have been maltreated, also find here a most comforiable as_ylum. There were thirty-five poor individuals leceiving the benefits of this great charity, there are sometimes betu ecn fifty and sixty. They are provided with food, shelter and clothing, and a medical gentleman is in ready attendance. It is altogether a most honorable and highly creditable institution to the gentle- men of Barbados, w ho contribute very cheerfully, £2,000 per annum to support it. Immediately contiguous is a lunatic asylum, also upheld by voluntary contributions, and under the same surveillance and superintendauce as the alms houses ; there were 'but three cases in it. One, a case of melancholy madness, a white woman about forty, her countenance was very mild and rather pleasing. She was perfectly harmless, her aberration was principally Uis- Wf WEST IND1E3. 45 playrd l)y lirr roli2;ioiis visions, phantoms, and dreams. At one time slio was inspired — a prophetess — then an angel— alternately filled with hope, and plunged in des- pair. Her head was much elevated at the middle lateial parts of the coronal suture. The posterior portion of the head was small. Another female, a mulatto woman, a complete fury, breathing hatred, vengeance, and destruc- tion against every one, presented a far different configura- tion, being very broad above the ears, with a low, retiring forehead. She was in a violent paroxysm, when I saw her, and was obliged to be placed under restraint. The third case was that of a white man, apparently aboutfifty, very morose, ill tempered, and taciturn, but in no respect dangerous. He possessed great mechanical powers, con- stantly sketching on the walls of his cell, architectural designs — churches, bridges, mills, &c. His forehead was well developed— the lateral portion of the head full — the eyebrows lofty and prominent. Near to this asylum there were growing four beautiful trees, in the highest perfection, called the May-pole Aloe. The trunk is of the most delightful green, and although straight and tapering, seems divided into regular scales. They somewhat re- semble a branched candlestick ; the branches have a grace- ful curvature, coiling round in serpentine folds, and sur- mounted by a richly tufted yellow flower of a spiral form. They are upwards of twenty feet in height, ; the Botani- cal name is the Agave Americana. I visited the national schools next, which are conducted here in a very superior manner. The whole ©f the arrangements are admirable, every attention is paid to the improvement and moral culture of the children, whose decent, healthy, rnd cheer- ful appearance, respectful demeanor, and becoming de- portment, are alike testimonies equally honorable to the supporters of this interesting establishment, as to those 44 WEST iNi)ir:s. who participate in its liciicfits. 'i hero arc now rccrivinj]^ instruction in these schools, 218 children — 127 boys — 01 girls — all of them arc fed during the day, iUJ arc boarded and live altogether within the walls. Their school rooms, dormitories and galleries are cool and spacious, and are inspected by a committee, in whose hands the whole ar- rangement of the establishment are placed, so eminently deserving the attention of the true friends of this ancient and most loyal Colony, as its ultimate safety, happiness, and prosperity will in a great degree depend on the now rising generation. Their present gratifying appearance and condition holds out a happy prospect and bright au- gury for the future. The year's expenditure from March 1831, to March 1832, was £1838 7 6. In Bridge Town there are soup rooms, supported by charitable individuals. Soup tickets are distributed to poor and necessitous persons, who, on presenting them, are supplied with it gratuitously. The cathedral ol St. Michaels is a fine, large building — the roof is a magnifi- cent piece of architecture, unsupported by any pillar. The chancel, with the Bishop's throne, forms a very hand- some termination. The galleries are spacious ,* immedi- ately beneath them, and surrounding the interior of the church, are a great variety of monuments, brought at different times from England, some beautifully finished, and fine specimens of sculpture. Previous to the hurri- cane of 1780, this church had a lofty spire, on the summit of which was placed a huge brass figure of St. Michael, the archangel with a trumpet at his mouth. Both from its great elevation and colour, it formed a conspicuous land mark, and was seen many miles distant at sea, more especially when illuminated by the rcficction of the sun. It has not received a place on the present tower, a more secure position than the former spire. St. Mary's church WEST INDIES. 45 is also a fine uuci spacious building. The Jews have erect- ed a very handsome Synagogue ; it was opened with great soicniity and pomp during my temporary residence at 15ar]3ados — the fashion of the island attended on the occasion. It was a fine spectacle. 1 he next place I went to see was the gaol, a large building, with a spacious court around it, and surrounded by a wall. One half of the building is appropriated for holding the court of Grand Session — rooms for the grand and petit jury — his Majesty's council chamber — and the general assembly : the other half is used as a prison, where debtors, convicted felons, and prisoners waiting for trial are all confined. I saw the negro, Robert James, in confinement, whose outrage on a white female had excited such an intense feeling. Nothing could exceed the excitement introduced by the President's remission of the extreme penalty of the law ; the people were almost provoked to follow the example of Edinburgh at the exe- cution of Porteous. The man had attempted to make his escape : he was then heavily ii'oncd, and appeared a desperate and abandoned criminal. The inhabitants of Bridge Town have erected a solid, handsome pier of con- siderable elegance and strength : it is frequented as a promenade, and secured from heavy seas by a large break- water ; it proved of much utility to Bridge Town during the last frightful hurricane, and was supposed to have saved several houses from entire destruction. On the wharf, immediately fronting the pier, and in a situation well selected to communicate with the signal post at High- gate, are the Commercial rooms, supported by the merch- ants of Bridge Town, for their mutual accommodation. Books are kept containing an account of every arrival and departure, and indeed of every thing relative to the shipping and commercial interests. Files of the Colonial, 46 WEST INDIES. I I English, Scotch, and Irish newspapers arc also prescrvcJ. There are two very excellent literary institutions in this town, both possessing very superior libraries, as a refer- ence to the catalogue will testify. The subscribers are extremely kind in giving permission to the visitors to the island, to have free access to their books, charts, ened for public amusement, and seemed likely to succeed. Neither the Government House, nor the King's House, are remarkable — they can only be considered good, com- modious buildings. The Bishop of Barbados possesses a most delightful residence, called Pilgrim's, beautifully surrounded by trees ; here, as in many other gardens in the island, are to be seen the scarlet cordia, the crimson hibiscus, the red and orange flower fence, (Pointziana pulcherrima, or Barbados Pride,) the plumeria, the white datura, and whiter amaryllis, the heliotrope, intermixed with beautiful varieties of the mimosa: His situation is very cool, and commands a splendid sea vinw. CHAPTER V. On Good-Friday, April 5th, I attended the service at the new Moravian Church, lately erected in the parish of St. Thomas, and which had been only opened for worship on the preceding Sunday. The chapel is an WEST INDIES. 47 octaguiial bullditig, and has a very neat and imposing ap- puaiancc: a row of young cabbage trees, areca oleracea, were just planted, and will form a fine avenue when they attain their growth. It is capable of containing one thousand persons. There were a vast number of negroes present, who seemed to pay great attention, and joined in the exercises of devotion with much apparent feeling of piety. The service consists, principally, in singing hymns, a very acceptable mode of worship to the negroes wlio are so passionately fond of music; — but between the singing portions of the service they have prayers, preach- ing and reading. The Moravians have also a large school for the instruction of coloured children, and they labour in their vocation most meritoriously. There is likewise another establishment in the parish of St. John. Their teachers are greatly esteemed for their unostentatious me- rits, and as they inculcate most strongly the necessity of industrious habits and virtuous principles, and the merits of good works,they prove useful and admirable instructors of the negro race. On the 7th, 1 went to ilole Town to bathe and breakfast on fish. There was a fine haul drawn up; nothing can exceed the beautiful variegated colours of the scalesof these fish. I remarked one in particular, of the size and form of the sole, of the most brilliant purple colour. The chubbs presented a great variety of hues, scarlet, green, red and blue, all brilliant and vivid. In the ornithology oi this island the variety is not great; the graceful humming bird, the cooing dove, and the chirping blackbird, are the chief. In the month of August, innumerable flocks of cranes, alcatrazes, fla- mingos, snipes, plovers, wild ducks, and gallaceta, resort to the swampy parts of the island. Tents or boxes are erected for the sportsmen, who enjoy abundance of sport without fatigue. 48 WEST INDIfcsj. Ill and about Hole Town, — at Boscobcl — in Scotliuul, and in many parts to the leeward of the island, numbers of poor white inhabitants reside, objects of the raillery and vituperation of those fllp])ant writers, who have adopted the opinions of others, rather than take the trouble of making an investigation themselves. Mr. Coleridge has thought fit to speak of these persons in the following manner. "In consequence of the large white population in Barbados, there exists a class of people which I did not meet with in any other of the islands. By the laws of the colony every estate is obliged to maintain a certain number of whites in proportion to its extent. These men are called the tenantry, and have an indefeasible interest for their lives in a house and garden upon the resj)ective plantations. They owe no fealty to the landlord; make him no acknowledgment, and entertain no kind of grati- tude towards him. The militia is principally composed of these persons, and with the exception of that service, the greater part t)f them live in a state of idleness, and arc usually ignorant and debauched to the last degree. They will often walk half over the island to demand alms, and if you question them about their mode of life and habits of daily labour, they stare in your face as if they were ac- tually unable to comprehend the meaning of your dis- course. The women who will w^ork at all, find employ- ment in washing and mending the clothes of the negroes, and it is notorious that in many cases whole families of these free whites depend for their subsistence on the char- ity of the slaves. Yet they are as proud as Lucifer him- self, and in virtue of their freckled ditchw atcr faces con- sider themselves on a level with every gentlemen in their island." It is certainly possible that such a description may be borne out in some cases, but having visited in ev- ery part of the island for four months, taking the utmost, ■Jm WKST INDIES. 49 piiiMs to make inydclf throughly acquaiuiod with it, in its Icatiins, ilrtilitv, but also in its social condition. I am t'oiistraiiuil to say that 1 tliink Mr. Coleridge's statement is an cxau;i;i'raicd, uNcrdrawn and unfaithful representa- tion. As far as came vviihin my personal observation, I I'tunul ihuiii, in industrious habits, respectful demeanor, bccumin^ atiirc, and sobriety, fully equal to any white men, in the same rank and station of life. In all their iiabitalions, and [lalchts of land which they cultivate, he niiiiht have discovered the effect of industrious and well regulated inhabitants. And it is a matter of great aston- ishment that thev are enabled to work under a vertical sun, the thermometer frequently standing at 90° in the bhade, and manage to cultivate their ground and raise ginger, arrow root, cotton, aloes, and cassava : breeding poultry, and produce stock for sale. This indiscriminate censure does not appear to me at all becoming in Mr. Coleridge, and I think that he might have instituted a snore thorough investigation than he appears to have done, before hazarding such censorious observations. On the ytli I visited another remarkable cavern, called Harrison's, the entrance is in a deep ravine not far from Ellis's estate, Lyon Castle ; it is three yards in breadth, but very low. At a little distance from the entrance it becomes higher, and presents a lofty and beautiful appearance. It has also a stream of water rolling through it, and some capacious and deep pools : the stalactites are as large and thick as the trunk of a full grown oak, hanging pendent from the roof. Some large and aged stalactites were strewn about the cave, having fallen from their great size and weight, in other places they were as yet in embryo, and in course of growth and formation. On the 10th 1 accompanied Dr. Kill to visit another of the great natural curiosities of Barbados, called the burning spring. This spring, which 7 IS constantly emitting a quantity of liydrogf ii gas, is sitii' ated in the pictniesquc and charming district of Barba- dian Scotlpnd. It is in a dcej) and sequestered glen ot' great natural beauty, the sides of which, to the summit of a loftv hill, are covered with trees of the most luxu- riant growth and foliage, forming a wood of a secluded, romantic and sombre appearance. By pouring a quantity of water into the pool, from w hence the gas is evolved^ and passing a h'ghted torch over the surface, a brilliant illumination is immediately produced and continues some- time. Gas might be collected in close stopper bottles, in any quantity, from this pool. The delightful wood, call- ed Turner's Hall wood, is part of the aboriginal forest ; it is the largest in the island : the beautiful sharp pointed Spanish needle, the Bidcns pilosa, the graceful vine of the water lemon, the long rolls of the quilled pimploe, pimploe, the cactus tuna, blending with the other tropical trees, renders this wood a very interesting spot. It pos- sesses all the attraction of the Scotland Scenery, and is in the immediate neighbourhood of the Naptha springs, pineries, and other beauties of this romantic region. On the 12th I went to visit Codrington College, by way of Austin's, a very small village, I believe in the parish of St. Philip ; nothing can exceed the degree of attention paid to the comfort and health of the students, than in the site and erection of this noble building. From the indefati- gable attention of the present worthy principal, the insti- tution affords the invaluable blessing of superior educa- tion to twenty-three students. Surrounded by lofty hills, shaded by fine trees, with a clear running stream, forming a small lake in front, with an unbounded view of the Western Ocean, whose delightful breezes ever blowing health and imparting coolness ; the situation is the most salubrious and proper that could have been bolectedl i >m:st INDIES. 51 Abiind.inco of sen rgj^s arc caught on this coast, thry are a (i( liciuiis food, and this |)arish is celebrated by the airecting incident ol* Inkle and Yarico. Mr. Madden, I am inclined to think, spoke of Barbadocs scenery as uninteresting, without having seen if. Curiosity induced nie to visit a place called Boscobe>, named after the place of refuge of King Charles, by som«: of those families, who left FIngland to escape the murder- ous fury of the regicides of that period. The civil war in England, during the reign of Charles I. caused many peo- ple of peaceable tempers and dispositions to take refuge in Barbados, and the consequent ruin of the King's affairs induced a still greater number, many of whom had been officers of rank in his service, to follow their example. The emigration from England to this island was indeed so great that in 1650, it was computed there were 20,000 Englishmen fled to Barbados. It was not surprising that a spot deemed so sacred, by the noble Cavaliers of that day, should be a favorite name, and from that circum- stance I attribute its being given to this rude and romantic place. The scenery is extremely wild, commanding an extensive sea view, rude rocks, intersected by awfully deep gullies, abounding in every direction. In one of these is a spacious basin, into which a stream of spring water is continually running, forming a comfortable and well sheltered place for bathing. Many poor white fam- ilies live in this neighborhood. I rode to the summit oi Bissix Hill, with Col. Rogers — from this spot there is a most splendid and extensive view ; the house, blown down in the hurricane, lay a mass of disjointed stones. In the parish of St. Joseph, on Mr. Higginson's estate, a steam engine is employed in the manufacture of sugar, a river called Joe's river, runs through the sugar house, affording a constant supply of water. The view from Sugar Hill : 52 "WEST liNDIES. in this vicinity is also very niaii^nifimit. I arcompnnird Col. Rogers to his estate, called Park's, in St. Joseph's Parish — the soil here is uncommonly rich and prolific, and his plantations well worthy of inspection. 11 (; has in one field, aye Jiving springs of most excellent water. There is also at the back and round the house, a beautiful plantatoin, of that charming tree, the plantain, the miles fruit of which is delicious. In a circuit of a few jn this vicinity, all the beauties of the tropics may be witnessed, the fustic tree, lignum-vita*, the cocoa nut tree, the cabbage palm, the fiddle wood, the white jessa- min, the silk cotton tree, the sand box tree, the bully tree, the varilla, the quassia, the creeping granadillo, the ota- heitan gooseberry, the hanging water lemon tree, the tam- arind, the sweet smelling acacia, the pomegranate, the stately aloe, the light colored cane, the guinea grass patch, the mangrove, and the graceful and waving bamboo. The dolichos pruriens, whose hairy substance is so cele- brated as a vermifuge, grows indigenously in this island, and it is related, as having proved so great annoyance to the negroes in reaping the canes, that instances have oc- curred in which they have destroyed the crop rather than take it in, in consequence of the suffering inflicted by this vegetable tormentor. Perhaps in the globe there is not another spot so well cultivated and so astonishingly fertile as the island of Bar- bados. Its principal production is, of course, the sugar cane, but the planters grow yams, guinea corn, indian corn, eddoes, sweet potatoes, and various sorts of peas. In addition to feeding its inhabitants, a great quantity of yams and poultry are raised and sent to th€ Leeward Islands : the negroes, on their own grounds, cultivate ar- row root, ginger, cotton, and aloes, for exportation ; and the annual quantity of sugar made is about 30,000 hhds. ipanird oscph's fic, and ; In one Thrro autiAil hi, tli(? a few '.s mav oa nut jcssa- ly tree, lie ota- letani- te, the patch, imlx)o. cele- island, mce to ive Qc- ?r than by this o well ifBar- sugar Indian ' peas, tity of cward ite ar- ; and hhds. WEST INDIES. 53 The population consists of about 120,0C0, of which num- ber there are about 40,000 whites and free colored. Hav- ing had such an excellent opportunity of witnessing the management of an estate, being more or less at Vaucluse, during four months, visiting it at all times and under all circumstances, as I pleased, and by myself; moreover it having been duing the period of making the sugar, I think 1 may as sai.Jy speak of the subjeet of slave labor, as those who have only read accounts of it, in the rooms of the anti-slavery society, Aldermanbury.* This fine estate consists of nearly six hundred acres, and for its cultivation there were more than 300 negroes : 4 masons, 3 carpenters, 3 coopers, 4 domestics, 3 male and 2 female superintendents of the field, 60 field labourers in the first gang, 60 in the second gang, 25 in the third, 8 watchmen, 6 cooks, 2 sick nurses, 11 tending the cattle, calves, &c., 3 tending the goats and pigs, 1 groom, 2 women in charge of children, 115 old infirm people, infants, and young children, and 6 invalids. The quantity of land annually planted in canes about 60 acres, the quantity of canes reaped about 130 acres, the canes springing again, and if well weeded and kept clean, giv- ing a second and third crop. There were 80 negro hou- ses, with a separate kitchen to nearly every house; round the house they are permitted to keep pigs, goats, poultry, &c. They have also half an acre of land for their own cultivation. The houses are built and kept in repair by the liberal proprietor of the estate. The hospital on the estate, is a cocnfortable, roomy, well ventilated building, where the negroes are carefiilly attended in sickness, or on receiving any injury from accident. A skilful medical practitioner is employed to attend day and night — nurses are provided, who alternately take charge of them, and whatever is ordered by tlie physician, is at once procured. 64 WEST INDIES. and the hours allotted for their work are from six to sit^ giving out of that time for their meals ; making their amount of labour nine working hours daily. They have Saturday and Sunday to themselves, and on asking the manager, they are permitted to attend funerals, go to market to sell their own stock. One of the negroes on this estate, a very industrious man, told me that he had made on an average £10 per annum, by the ginger and starch he raised from his portion of ground, and that he had amassed more than £100. The morning bell rings at half past four, and at a quarter before six the roll is called over, and they receive instructions for their day's labour. In addition to the meals which thev have, in common, on the estate, they have a weekly allowance of provisions, ten pints of Guinea corn, or thirteen pints of Indian corn. If in roots, yams, eddoes, or potatoes, 30 pounds, and one pound of salt fish to each negro. At Christmas and in harvest, they are bountifully regaled, and on the other solemn days, they receive permission to abstain from work. It is but justice to say, that I never saw such happiness and prosperity amorjgst any body of labourers, as amongst the negro population of this island. They never felt the hardship of want ; were never dis- tressed by the cares of a starving family and wife ; secure in the possession of a comfortable house ; knew not the misery of seeing their faniily and children driven from the shelter of their roof, by the cruelty of a creditor, or the hardship of the times, nor doomed to depend on charity for the support of a wretched existence. These much calumniated planters never insolently assumed that "all men were free and equal," and then in solemn mockery, decreed that slavery in its most cruel, savage, remorse- less, meiciless form should exist for ever. This startling detestable anomaly was reserved for republican slave- 1 h WEST INDIES. 55 They are runiished with two good suits of clothing a year, holders ! Let them blush on reading the following mes- sage from one of the Governors of a British Colony in 1823: '*The Governor and Commander-in-chief entreats the House to bear in mind, that the black population have, like ourselves, every at- tribute of man: not inferior in intellect, or more degraded in mind, oth- erwise than as they may individually be held in a state of degradation, or of intellectual inaction; equal to ourselves in the eye of the Almighty as far as regards the promised rewards or punishments in a future state; that they are men like ourselves, frail in nature, yet equally entitled to the protection, equally obtaining the sure and certain super- intending care of their ereator. It must consequently be admitted, that every endeavour should be used to teach them, by the means of in- creased religious and moral instruction, these first of Christian princi- ples, — that contentment as to their allotted situation in this life, which the Almighty has assigned them; that a due obedience to their supe- riors, and a quiet and peaceable demeanour, a patient endurance, best supported by the excellent tenets of our most pure religion, will ensure to them hereafter those blessed rewards in another and better world, where all will become equal, where all will be judged, not by the color of their skin; not by the chance and adventitious services of this life ; but by the good or bad use which each individual may have made of his own intellectual endowments; and of the advantages towards im- provement, incident to this moral state. Let them be taught by our enactments, the value to be set upon those benificent and enlightened views pointed out to us in the letter from His Majesty's Secretary of State: let them be taught that we consider them our fellow creatures, capable of, and equal to, every species of moral and religious instruc- tion; let them be taught the necessity of prayer, the keeping holy the Sabbath day, and attending divine service; the sacredn ess of ihe mar- ried tie in every well organized society; the value of an oath, and the consequent capability of their evidence being received in courts of justice; and finally, the certainty of being as well protected from every species of oppression and injustice, as their fellow-creatures tlie white population are protected." What a striking contrast to the language of Governor McDuffie of Carolina — General Jackson in his annual message — and the general Congress in their report ! — B6 WEST IKDIES. Willi them, slavery is to be perpciiial — instruction and amelioration a crime. Nay, they almost jusiHy the strip- pings, scom'gings, tarrings, leatherings, shootings, hang- ings, and assassinations that bands of murderous tyrauis, under the name of Lynch law, have exerci; ed against those who would attempt the introduction of l)ctler and milder institutions. Often as I have gloried in bc^long- ing, by birth and affection, to Great Britain, I think I ne- ver felt the honor of the conneetion in so forcible a de- gree, as when, with an almost exhausted treasury, she declared that slavery shoidd become extinct, and that the mighty bot)n should not be disfigured by spoliation and robbery: but that she would give twenty millions ster- ling to the owners of slaves, as some degree of compensa- tion to them for their inevitable loss. Did the mighty Republic, with its overflowing coffers, follow her splendid and magnanimous example? No, by their cruel decisions they would seek forever to exclude the coloured people from the benefits of the social compact — and proclaim, under the specious and subdued character of "a compro- mise of the constitution" a determination to perpetuate slavery, and oppose by tiie strongest combination of phy- sical and legal power, the ultimate freedom, and present amelioration of the proscribed and helpless negro. Go- vernor jMcDuriie wuUI perhaps discover the mistake into which he has fallen in supposing that slavery is necessary, irremedial, hopeless, and perpetual. In South Carolina, the eminently learned, eloquent, and pious Bishop of Charleston, has been compelled to abandon the school which he had established for the instruction of free color- ed children: and some of the slave-holding states have threatened to banish all the free colored inhabitants from their country, if they deem it necessary for their security. Surely there must have been some error in the fundamcn- M I ■1 'I WESl' INDIES. 57 tal principle of iheir government, that "all men were by niUiire free, equal, and independent:" it should have been specially provided, that nothing therein contained should extend to others, than of white skins. An able writer lui? said, "If to reduce the African to slavery was a vio- lation «f his natural right-i, to hold him in bondage one moment longer than is necessary to prepare him for free- dom, is to perpetuate and participate in the injustice. — And what though the sacrifice should be a costly one, and the task of emancipation perplexing and difficult ? No sacrifice is so costly as the sacrifice of justice and human- ity ,* no expectation more unfounded and puerile than that of returning without pain and effort, from the dark and devious labyrinths of error. ^'Facilis descensus Averni: Sed revocare gradum superasque evadere ad auras, Hoc opus; hie labor est. But even if principle did not require the sacrifice, an en- lightened view of self interest would suggest it. If the Gordian knot be not untied, it will be cut. What honor, what glory, what renown, what gratitude have the West India Colonies justly earned for themselves, and acquired by their ready concurrence with the views and wishes of the Imperial Parliament, in removing from the national escutcheon the foul blot of Slavery ! Before closing my remarks on this lovely island, and its interesting and hos- pitable inhabitants, I cannot forbear noticing its extreme salubrity. In Sinclair's code of Health and Longevity, it is stated that in the fearful hurricane of 1780, which killed fifteen people, of that number four were upwards of one hundred years of age, and that one was of the great age of a hundred and fifteen. It is the most easterly of the British West Indies, twenty-one miles in length, and fourw teen in breadth, about the size of the Isle of Wight. The 8 II 58 WEST INDIES. cause of its hcalthlul condition, and the many instances of extreme longevity to be met with on every estate, is its free and perfect ventilation by the constant blowing of the trade winds, and that of the purest maritime air. Not overlooking an important fact, greatly iniluencing the du- ration of life, the general happiness of the negroes, their freedom from all harassing cares about poverty, disease, and helplessness ; and their regularity in food and general sobriety. My excellent friend Dr, Farre, in a very inter- esting journal which he published, gave a statement of the mean temperature of the diflTerent months of Penzance, in Cornwall — of Bonehurch, in the Isle of Wight,-^of Madeira and of Barbados. It certainly proved the admi- rable adaptation of Barbados to persons visited with pul- monary disease, and the communication being more frequent, and the accommodations superior, it is worthy of the serious attention of those suffering under that formi- dable malady. It is besides, completely, a British colony : language, manners, feelings, principles all thoroughly, entirely British. On the 15th of April, I bid adieu! to Vaucluse, and in taking leave of the negroes on the estate, I could not, as I told them, wish them either a better or a kinder wish, than they might long be as happy, lighthearted, prosper- ous, and comfortable as they then were. I hope the ines- timable boon,- since conferred on them by the British Government, may realize, in their behalf, all the blessings philanthropy and humanity can desire. 1 remained two days in Bridge Town before sailing, and took the oppor- tunity afforded me on the morning of the 16th, after bath- ing at Fontabelle, to examine the oudet of the stream of water which it is supposed proceeds from Cole's Cave, jand forms the Indian River. All that is certain, is that a copious stream of water there issues from the rocks. :. CHAPTER Vr. : m On the 17th we weighed anchor at three o'clock, from CarhsleBay, in a schooner, the Flying Fish ; if celerity could justify the appellation, it was never more properly bestowed. The Captain, a most expert and active sea- man. We went on board at 11 o'clock, but were detained by waiting for the new Lieutenant Governor of St. Cris- topher's, and his family. The sea was so rough that long ere we had sailed, I was so excessively sick, from the tossing about of the vessel, that I continued to keep on deck, finding the cabin below intolerably hot. Very early in the morning we found ourselves before the Pitons, the sugarloaf mountains of St. Lucia; they are majestic moun- tains, of great height, rising perpendicularly out of the sea, forming a succession of lofty cones. Our vessel was sailing at a great rate, and we speedily made Martinique, running along its southern shores. The rising sun was just emerging from behind the lofty mountains of this fine island. As we continued our way, the mists of the morn- ing gradually disappeared, and exhibited a lovely country, finely cultivated, and surmounted by majestic mountains. We sailed near the Diamond Rock, so justly celebrated as the scene of Captain Morris's gallant achievements during the last war. It was actually a chivalrous exploit, in hoisting up a thirty-two pounder from the topsail yard- arm of a man of war, and planting it on this perilous crag. The water is very deep between this bold rock and the shore, enabling a ship of the largest size to pass through in perfect safety. The aperture is still to be seen where 60 WEST INDIES^ the gallant Captain slept, and the flagstaflf, from which the Union Jack proudly waved, to remind us, that Hearts ofoak are oursbipc*, Jolly tars are our men, W» always are ready, Steady, Boys, steady, To fight and to conquer, again and again. We passed the mouth of Fort Royal harbour, considered one of the most spacious, safe, and convenient in the world. 1 saw the curious pigeon rock, La Ramire, which would seem to be inaccessible and impregnable. The hanging town of St. Pierre looks very pleasing and inter- esting from the sea. We continued sailing, with a de- lightful breeze, at a very rapid rate, and quickly saw Dominique with its chain of majestic and lofty mountains. We could distinctly perceive the mills and sugar houses at work. Dominica seemed beautifully wooded. We pass- ed the northern extremity of the island, and before night closed in upon us we breasted the southern point of the rich and extensive island of Guadaloupe. We were becalmed for some little time under the long lee of the high land, the Captain informing us that it was very frequently the case. The following morning by daybreak we were between Antigua and Monteserrat. Monteserrat presents a fine appearance from the sea ; the breeze fresh- ened, and we soon came to a green rock, called Redonda, which was covered with sea birds. From its round and beautiful greeri appearance, it is a striking and interesting object. As our intention was to land at St. Kitt's, we run in close to Nevis, and really nothing can be more exquisite and lovely than this island, viewed from the sea. The top of its huge, magnificent mountain, rising in graceful majesty from it, was enveloped in clouds. For some distance up the mountain the land was finely cuhi- WEST INDIES. 61 vatcd, and the appearance of the planter's houses, the windmills, the churches, all enlivened and adorned with trees of great beauty and majestic growth, rendered it a most captivating scene. The side of the mountain fgrms a long slope connecting it, with a long narrow slip of land, extending to St. Kitt's. We dropped anchor off St. Kitt's about twelve o'clock, and really the description o( this exquisite island by Mr. Coleridge is so striking and correct, that it would be injustice not to give the account in his words : *'The valo of Basseterre, in softness, richness, nnd perfection of cultivation surpasses any tiling I have ever ';/een in my life. Green velvet is an inadequate image of the exquisite verdancy of the cane fields which lie along this lovely valley and cover the Bmooth acclivities of Monkey Hill. This hill is the southern termination of a range of greatmountains which increase in height towards the north, and thick- en together in enormous masses in the centre of the island. The apex of this rude pyramid is the awful crag of Mount Misery, which shoots slantingly forwards over the mouth of a volcanic chasm like a peninsula in the air. It is bare and black and generally visible, whilst the under parts of the mountain are enveloped in clouds. The height is more than 3700 feet, and is the most tre-uendous precipice 1 ever beheld." .... . . , . - . ■ As the people of St. Kitts were making the necessary preparations to receive the Governor, my friend proposed that we should land and see some little of the island. We had a view of Basseterre, a town of considerable size, but looked wretchedly neglected. It has a noble square, where a quantity of fruit of all the tropical varieties were exposed for sale. A number of negroes were collected in this square ; they had come from the country in the morn- ing, expecting that the new Governor had been sent from England to free them — they therefore positively refused to work. They soon discovered the delusion under which they laboured, but they evinced a very bad and refractory 69 WEST INDIES. spirif, which soon after the emancipation bill came into operation, broke out into acts of fearful violence nm\ insubordination, rendering it absolutely necessary to take very strong, peremptory and coercive measures to quell their rebellious conduct. Mr. Macquecn was staying at St. Kitts; we met him at the hotel. He had been visi- ting the various islands, and the planters giateful for his long continued and unwearied exertions in their behalf, gave him grand public dinners throughout his tour. He is unquestionably one of the ablest and most consistent friends of the Colonies, and possesses an immense fund of information relative to them. St. Kitt's had shortly before experienced two shocks of an earthquake, — the church clock had been stopped and was then unrepaired. I had no opportunity afforded me of visiting further than the outskirts of Basseterre, which 1 greatly regretted, as from what I saw of the enchanting steeps, gleaming under a cloudless sky, in all the rich variety of hue, which the beautiful flowers and foliage of the tropics supply, I am convinced of the great attraction of this lovely spot. There is a soft vale by Basseterre whose vivid green ap- pears as if it had never been violated by mortal foot. '1 here were several large pelicans flying about the bay. We weighed anchor about four o'clock, and continued sailing close in shore, along the coasts of this witching island, the land seemed every w^here rich and verdant and highly cultivated : and the neat houses, plantations, churches, windmills, mountains, deep ravines, and ma- jestic trees were all beautifully intermingled, and formed a most delightful scene. The fort on Brimstone Hill, at the southern extremity of the island, is situated on a grim and naked mountain, backed by loftier ones. It appear- ed from the rugged and precipitous steep on which it is built almost inaccessible. It is a large and noble fortifi- VVKbT INUIliS. 63 cailori of great command and strength, fronted by the coast and the sea. Before night closed in upon us we saw the lofty ishmds of Saba and St. Eustatius, they have a noble conical appearance, — they belong to Holland. Very early on Saturday morning, we saw land on both sides of us, the lovely and fertile island of Santa Cruz on our left, and the Virgin-Gordo on our right. We shortly afterwards came in sight of Tortola, St. Johns, and St. Thomas, and at one o'clock cast anchor in the beautiful and well [)rotected harbour of the latter Danish Colony. It is usual to run for the Frenchman's rock, a rude bluff promontory, outside the harbour, and then after passing it, the harbour itself is surrounded by lofty and majestic mountains. The views of the town —the ramparts — the fordfications — and the signal posts, give the island a no- ble appearance from the sea. The castle built in the Saxon style, with the sentry pacing before the outer door- way, is very well represented in one of the scenes in Charles XII. at Covent Garden theatre. I was much struck with the resemblance. On entering the town it is immediately evident that it is a free port, for although it is under the dominion of the King of Denmark, the flags of every nation are riding in security in the harbour — delighted commerce spreads her crowded sails and the inhabitants of every nation are carrying on their commer- cial speculations in the streets. » ' • i "Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites, and the dwellers in Mesopo- tamia, and in Judea, and Capadocia in Pontus and Asia. Phrygia, «nd Pampliylia, in Egypi, and in the parts of Sybia about Cyrene, and strangers of Rome, Jews and proselytes, Cretes and Arabians." ,. Our enterprising neighbours, the Yankees, carry on a very great trade with this island. The town itself is built \ on three hills, rising gracefully from the sea, these again surmounted by very lofty mountains. The country seems 64 WKSr INDIKS. indiirerciitiy cuhivatcd, niuniic town is intensely liot. — The houses are well built, and the warelionses or stores are very capacious and commodious, and well filled with every description of goods, from all |)arts «^r the wuld; — their inspection alone is a treat of no ordinary kind; — French, Danish, English, Spanish, ornaments, trinkets, pictures, and manufactures of every variety. The iown is lighted by lamps, suspended in the centre of the streets, four ropes forming a star, fixed from the oj)positc houses, from the middle of which the lamp is hung. Many of the lanterns are painted in the Chinese form, and loak very ornamental when lighted up. In addition to its no- velty, it appeared to me to be an improved method of lighting the streets — the centre as well as the sides being well illuminated, you can see for a considerable distance. The streets have Danish and French names given to them. The troops are a very noble, fine looking body of men ; they perform their various exercises on an extensive level parade ground, immediately beneath a lofty mountain, not far from the town. The date tree, the cocoa nut tree, the tamarind, the sapadillo, the guava, the soursop, the aloe were all growing within a short distance from the town All descriptions of religion are tolerated and pro- tected in this island. There are two extensive establish- ments of Moravians — two Protestant churches, ([ believe Lutheran) — a Roman Catholic church — and a large Jew- ish synagogue. On Sunday, April 21st, I went to the Roman Catholic church, to mass ; it is a large building, with a beautiful rose wood altar, handsomely decorated with fine paintings, and ornamented with costly images. There was a very numerous congregation, consisting of all classes of persons, and of all countries, white and col- ored, bond and free. It is in an assembly of this kind, that the unity of the Catholic faith is especially observed, WEST INPIES, 66 people of every language uniting together in prayer, with- out the smallest difficulty, assisting at the celebration of that holy and august sacrifice, foretold by the prophet Malachi, to be made from the rising to the setting of the sun. All the stores were open on the Sunday, and the market places were thronged with people. 'J he main market extends a mile along the principal street, but the fish and meat markets are held in one of the ^ide streets leading to the bay. Pine apples, shaddocks, melons, oranges, limes, grape fruit, mangoes, sapadilloes, water lemons, nuts, egg fruit, and plums, were selling at the various stalls. There was a quantity of European vege- tables also for sale, — carrots, turnips, parsley, French beans, kc, A plentiful supply of every variety of fish, which looked very fine : I cannot say as^^much for the meat ; likewise an abundance of poultry, probably from Barbados, as they send a great deal to the Leeward Islands. The town is most oppressively hot, lying under a vertical sun, and screened from the sea breezes in every direction, by the lofty range of mountains which encircle it. The Danes hear an excellent character for their kind treat- ment and usage of their slaves. Several that were under punishment for theft, and other offences, were working in the road, with a long chain attached to their legs, con- necting them with each other, and an overseer was super- intending them* In the evening 1 looked in to the largest Lutheran church, but did not remain long from my unac- quaintance with the language. It seemed to me there was little prejudice generally existing in this island with regard to colour. The coloured and white population were setting in pews together, without any distinction. They have a very large fine troop of free colored men, whom I saw reviewed several times ; although they did not seem very perfect in their discipline, they presented, 9 66 WfiSt INDIES. on the whole, a noble and imposing appearance at exer- cise. The island is no where well cultivated, but it is plentifully supplied with fruits and vegetables from the surrounding ones. Santa Cruz, immediately contiguous to it, and under the same government, and the luxuriant lands of Puerta Rica, furnish it with abundance of luxu- ries of every description. It is altogether a commercial mart— a large bazaar— and being open to all nations, it has become a complete depot. The whole of Spanish main is supplied with goods from the island, and were it not for the revolutionary mania which has so cursed and distracted that country, that of itself would form a large trade. Great numbers of oxen and mules are sent from the rich Savannahs of Porto Rico to the windward islands. The immense utility of oxen in the West Indies is incon- ceivable, and the quantity of work they perform incredi- ble. They are used for carrying the canes from the fields to the mill — for all purposes of husbandry — and for conveying the sugar from the various estates to the wharves for shipment. They are fed in pens, at night, with the tops of the sugar canes, and of the corn, and browse on the hills when there is any grass growing on them. There are more milch cows than formerly in the islands, and many planters now raise their own stock. It was the case at Vaucluse. The milk from the cow is so rich, that butter is at once made from it, and of very good qtiality. The Abbe Dubois told me that the reasons the Brachmins looked upon the Ox with such veneration, arose from their obvious and immense utility in scorching climaces. On the 22d, I passed the evening at the house of a very intelligent Jew, named Massiah, one of the readers of the synagogue. His family suffered dreadfully in the revolution at St. Domingo. His house is situated on a high hill, embracing an entire view of the various ir- is le IS It WEST INDIES. §7 bays and the town. 'J he appearance of the latter, brill- iantly illuminated — the sounds of music and merriment proceeding from different parts — the hum of voices borne upwards from the street — the soothing influence of a cool evening, contributed to invest the scene with a romantic character. The house was built in the Moorish fashion, the entrance to the forecourt was through fine lofty gates, and an arched doorway, The forecourt was square and well paved, in the centre of which was a finepapaw tree^ instead of a fountain. The apartments which were on the ground floor, were square and lofty, opening imme- diately into it. Around the house was a handsome ter- race, carefully screened from the sun, by a large jalousie^ The situation is altogether highly picturesque, and as com- fortable as any residence could be made near the town. When the eight o'clock evening gun is fired the reverber- ation continues to resound through the rocks for some time. The streets are then cleared —the burghers then undertake the oflice of watchmen alternately — the muni* cipal laws are severely enforced, and persons remaining in the streets after this period are liable to be apprehended and punished. At the hotel there were two of the most beautiful birds I almost ever beheld ; the one called the Tropial, with yellow and black plumage, and of most ex- quisite voice : the other, a mocking bird, of a grey colour, whose imitative powers were astonishing. April 23d, St. George's Day. A splendid Danish Ship sailed this day froni the harbour for Denmark, and took a bag ot letters for England, which they (eave with a pilot in the channel. The market presented a very gay scene, a quantity of fruit having arrived in the morning from Santa Cruz. U.^^IT1]I> STATES. "Virtue and Intelligence — the sheet-anchor of our national union, and the perpetuity of our national free'\ m." — Extract from a Speech of the present enlightened President cf the United States, Andrew Jackson. CHAPTER VII. At three o'clock in the afternoon of 23d, wc went on board the schooner, Vernon, for Philadelphia, and weighed anchor at four. A capital breeze attended us out of the harbour, which continued several days, until it increased to a gale, accompanied with violent squalls. At the full of the moon, the sun went down with such an angry appearance, and the clouds flitted so rapidly, as to induce the Captain to take in all sails ; it proved a very fortunate precaution; for shortly afterwards we were struck by a white squall, so called from no other indication appearing, but a white scud on the surface of the waves, which must have sunk the vessel, but for the prudence of the Captain. I was thrown with some violence out of my birth, and went on deck, but the vessel had righted herself immediately. The weather still continued bois- terous and unsettled for several days. On entering the gulf stream we tested the temperature of the water, by the thermometer, several times daily, cmd found the vari- 70 r.NITKD STATES. atioii between i(, mid ilic atmospheyc, generally ranging from five lo icn degrees. The difference between tlic temperature of the water of the gulf stream, and lliat of the sea beyond it, was thirteen degrees. I observed a great quantity of weeds in this stream, some fresh and green, but generally yellow and withered. Jt was the appearance of these weeds that enabled the great Colum- bus to raise the drooping spirits of his disheartened crew, by pointing them out as a certainty that they were not far distant from the land. There were large pieces of wood constantly floating by us, probably from some of the American rivers. The little nautilus or Portuguese men of war, were riding about the sea in all directions ; some large, all graceful, and many of varied and extremely beautiful colors. They take in their sails with more ex- pedition, than the American sailors, which is saying a vast deal in praise of their agility and quickness. On May 7th, about seven o'clock in the evening, we approached Finwick- s island, the first land we made : the Captain immediately hoisted a signal for a pilo^ but we were not so fortunate as to obtain one that ni . ^ The wind was then blowing fair and fresh — we were off Cape Henlopen — the Captain put the vessel under easy capr vass. To our great mortification, when day light appears ed, and we had procured a pilot, we found ourselves ofi* Cape May, on the opposite side of the Delaware Bay, whither we had drifted in the night, and to complete the vexation, it was a perfect calm. Having experienced quite sufficient of the pleasures of the sea, we preferred proceed- ing to Philadelphia by land, rather than by the Dela- ware river, which from its magnitude at its mouth, being twenty miles across, and the grandeur of its splendid breakwater, seemed to promise us a high gratification. We landed at Cape May Island, the coast is low and flat, bu riv l\ an cu ,.h : pi, am 1 me nui we ■ ous - Kn 1 gre ■i alll. live Ik ^k , but UNITED STATES. aiul clieerful. The island 71 from the \U presents river very much the appearance of the Essex coast about Fouhiess and Southend. It was a most lovely, cloudless and warm morning, and the sturgeon were leaping and curvetting about the unruffled waters of the bay. This place is quite the resort for the fashionables of Philadel- phia in the summer months, and to that circumstance I am inclined to attribute the good roads, through the im- mense pine forests I afterwards traversed. The bathing must be excellent, from the fineness of the beach ; there were numbers of machines, standing in front of the vari- ous hotels, giving the place a striking resemblance to an luiglish bathing place; from the beautiful enclosures of green, not unlike Broadstairs. The taverns are spacious, and well furnished, and I have no doubt present a very lively scene during the season. They stand immediately in front of the sea. The beach is extremely beautiful, the $and of the most delicate whiteness, quite firm, and ex- tending a long distance on the shore. There were num- bers of birds of various descriptions, particularly of a small grey bird, which are esteemed a choice delica- cy. I visited the light house a short distance from the village : it is a circular building, ninety feet in height, and IS lighted up with revolving lights, that mariners may be enabled to distinguish it from the one of Cape Henlopen on the opposite shore, which has a stationary light. Ihe marsh lands about this island are extensive and divided by Dykes as in Rochford Hundred : they reminded me most forcibly of them, as well as those about Canewdon : they are very celebrated for grazing, and vast quantities of sheep are fattened on them. May 10th, left Cape May Island at two o'clock in the morning, by the coach, for Philadelphia. It was quite dark until we reached Cape May court-house, the first ,.? ** ."^^^ i!I III 72 lUMTED STATES. ihirtceu miles, and ^\\m'v wc rluuigcd horses. It is a small village, pleasantly situated, and liaviii;^ a good road to the island. When day li^iht enahlcd me to see the country, I was nuich snrprised at the singular appearance of the fences. Miss Fanny Kcnible compares them with her usual delicacy, to "the herring-bone seams of a flannel petticoat." They arc at first, certainly, disagreeable to the eyes of an Englishman accustomed to behold the highly ornamented and beautiful quickset hedges of haw- thorn in his own highly cultivated country. They arc moveable zigzag fences, formed of rails j)laced on each other and secured with stakes and riders, and are termed Virginia fences. Turning out of the main road from the Court House, into the woods, there was a large and beautiful peach orchard covered with lovely blossoms. The first village we passed through was called Goshen, an entire new place, but apparently thriving, ns the extent of the orch- ards, the appearance of the houses, and the large clear- ings in the wood seemed to indicate. The roads are in great part corduroy; — long trees lying parallel with each other, and resting on side trees, — they arc absolutely ne- cessary when the roads pass through swampy districts: — and there were several swamps in these woods. Dennis' Creek is the next settlement ; there were great quantities of staves, and abundance of timbv^r, ready for conveyance by this stream, to the Delaware River: and the place, from the contiguity, by water, to that river, l>ein^ sur- rounded by fine timber, and possessing valuable water- privileges, must become a place of trade and importance. T'here were several saw-mills at work, quantities of saw^ logsreadyfor lumber, and some boat-building going on. Tuckahoc was the next place we arrived at, where we changed both stage and horses, and breakfasted al a very ^^ UNITED STATES. 73 roinfortablc hin. We had a capital brcakfait and paid moderately for it. This village contains many good hou- ses, and also possesses the advantage of a fine creek edu- nccting it with the Delaware river. From the village We soon got into the woods, through which We travelled nearly sixty miles, a great part over corduroy roads, al- most shaking us to pieces. In some parts the hemlock, spruce, and cedar f(»rm a noble grove. Throughout this extensive district of forest, there were but very few places, where any thing like cultivation appeared. Occasionally we came to a spot where small patches of the woods were in progress of clearing, and here and there a new log house, a recently planted peach and apple orchard, and a few rye fields were to be seen. I have not, even in Can- ada, beheld so long continued a forest scene as this. In the course of our progress, we passed an extensive district oi wood, which had been on iire several days, and was still burning, destroying some very valuable pine timber. We saw the traces of the fire for more than ,ten miles of our journey. We dined at an inn called the Cross Keys, twelve miles only from Philadelphia, and richly enjoyed a fine piece of roast beef ; the dinner was both good and cheap. We came into a much more cultivated and finer country here, the scenery more and more picturesque, the farms larger, houses better, land of finer quality, good crops growing, the timber of a different character and growth. I never saw finer elms, scyamores, and chcsnut trees than I observed in this route ; the country is gener- aily undulating, until arriving at Mount Ephi^aim, it is then l lowing gratifying announcement. **NSW CHAia OF THE INSTITUTES OF MEDICINE AND MEDICAL JURISPRUDENCE. **The progress of Medical Science demanding, in the opinion of the Trustees of Jefferson Medical College, an extension of the course of instruction, they have created a new Professorship, viz: that of **The Institutes of Medicine and MedicalJurisprudence, and have elected to (his Chair Robley Dunglison, M. D. formerly Professor of Physiology in the University of Virginia, and late Professor of Materia Medicain the University of Maryland. The appointment has been officially ac- cepted. - In announcing to the Profession the appointment of the distinguish- ed gentleman to a Professorship in Jefferson Medical College, the o^ 76 UiNITED STATE3. Hcers ofthat Institution do so with unmixed gratification. The re pn- tation of ProfeaRor Dunglison is too well known to require any com- ment. As a scholar, a profound Physician, and an enlightened Phyi^i- ologist, he holds the highest rank, both in (his country and in Europe ; and, as an eloquent and popular lecturer, has no superior.'' I have dissected with Dr. Dunglison, in England, and can bear most willing testimony to his high endowments, personal worth, and admirable character. The Pennsylva- nia Hospital is a splendid erection: its front is 273 feet: it Is connected with another large building adapted for sixty patients. Attached to it is a delightful garden ; every thing that care, humanity, and skill can accomplish, in the cure of disease, modifying its anguish, and repairing its ravages, is here made use of. The churches and chap- els are very numerous, many of them exceedingly beau- tiful: the Scotch Church, St. Stephen's is most superbly finished and furnished, and the Catholic Church, St. John's in Thirteenth street, is an ornament to the city. — The altar is truly elegant and has over it a splendid painting, the present of Joseph Bonaparte. It is this church to which, that accomplished scholar, polished gen- tleman, and eminent divine^ the Rev. J. Hughes, is at- tached. So greatly and so justly is this estimable char- acter valued by all classes, that his portrait was taken by public subscription, a fine engraving was e^^ecuted from the painting, and is to be met with in the excellent book- sellers' shops with which this city abonnds. Sioce wri- ting this, I find that the Rev. Mr. Hughes has received the ring, the mitre, and the crozier, as a reward for his piety and merit. There are six Catholic Chtirches in Philadelphia. St Joseph's, Willings' Altey, is remaining : it is low but spacious; celebrated for its being the first erected in this beautiful city, by the ever active and waloussQn&af St. UNITED STATES. 77 Ignatius. Ttie (Iiocesc of Philddclphia being very exten- sive, tlie IVishop has tlie assistance of a coafljuror. **Tlie citizen* of Philadelphia are taking meaiiures for tb« eatab- lisiimont ofa City Cemetry, upon the plan of the beautiful ground at Mount Aiihiirn, nenr Boston. A numberof public spirited gentlemen, well qualified from their means and their good taste to take such a matter in hand, have purchased Laurel Hill for this praiseworthy pur- pose. This fine »pot is situated on the banks of the Schuylkill, and is capable of beiug made every thing that is desirable in auch an object." I regretted that circumstances prevented me from see- ing the prison, sojustly famous for the reformation of it9 innmtcs; a model for the civilized world;^«the Naval Hos- pital, and the Navy Yard; the former has the repute of being admirably conducted, in the latter is to be seen the mammoth ship Pennsylvania, supposed to be the largest ever built. This city altogether is replete with interest: in its crowded streets the hum and activity of commerce is met with ; in its lovely squares, wealth and fashion and beauty^^and in some, actually the rural charms of a country scene. Nor can I omit mention of its long and admirable market, most abundantly supplied with iish> game, poultry, vegetables, butter, eggs, and fruit. We left Philadelphia in a steam-boat early in the morning, the scene was not very dissimilar to the avenues to the steam-boats In London. Crowds of persons hastening with trunks,' poptmanteaus^^parties, rushing to the water* edge^-bells ringing, presenting a singular scene of anima- ted confusion. We oJ^tained breakfast tickets, and sat down with an immense party to a very capital and sub* stantial breakfast The banks of the Delaware are more pleasing than grand. The country is well cuhivated^and small villages;, with occasional farm^bouses, are amongst the objects of its attraction. The boat, landed passengers at Burlington, on the New Jersey ^de of the river, 18 78 UNITKU STATES. miles from Philadelphia; at Bristol, one mile farther, on the Pennsylvania side: and at Bordentown, ten miles far- ther on the Ne^v Jersey side. This is a bustling place since the rail road has been made, connecting it with South Araboy, on Rariton Bay. Several coaches were jn wailing for the conveyance of passengers, very like the old fashioned double bodied stage coaches of England. — The body of the coach is divided into three compart- ments,, each holding six persons ; it is drawn by four horses, changed three times: the distance was thirty-four miles, which we performed including landing etc. in three hours. The horses were all ready, and waiting in sheds, and were as quickly harnessed as those of the Brighton stages: greater celerity is not possible. The trunks, goods, parcels, etc., are placed on large crates in the steam-boat which is lifted by means of a crane to a carriage, and again from the carriage to the steamer by the same nie^ tbod. 'J he road through which the rail road runs, is through a country indifferently cultivated, most probably from the poverty of its soil. The only tolerable crops were rye, and but one field particularly heavy: the peach orchards were flourishing, presenting a delightful collec- tion of delicate pink flowers. In this beautifully wooded district, stretching to the banks of the Delaware, round about the environs of Jo- seph Bonaparte's demesne, there were growing gigantic plane and maple trees — the horse chesnut — several vari- eties of oak — the sassafras — the hickory — the pride of India — the catalpa — the liquid amber styruciflua — the leri- odendron tulipifera, and magnolia grandiflora, many of them brought there, perhaps by Joseph Bonaparte him- self. They always, in my estimation, impart an air of grandeur and majesty to any scene. Joseph Bonaparte's mansion is at Bordentown ; it is a UNITED STATES. 19 Spacious building, not particularly handsome, on the banks of the Delaware, surrounded by a profusion ofinost beautiful flowering shrubs, rhododendrons, azaleas, mag- nolias, japonicas, and some trees of a very majestic and stately growth. There is a large observatory built on the grounds, commanding the Delaware river, and a splendid extent of country. The part seen from the river, between Amboy and New York, seems exuberantly fertile, large meadows covered with grass of the finest growth, exten- sive orchards and well built houses adorn its banks. There is a creek navigable to Elizabethtown, Irom which a steamer runs every day to New York. It is a pretty village, with some good buildings, and contains a popula- tion of nearly 4,000 persons. Newark, so celebrated for its cider, and its immense shoe manufactory, and contain- ing a population of nearly 14,000, is seen on this route ; it is nine miles from New York, and six from Elizabeth- town. CHAPTER VIII. We arrived at New York on Tuesday, May 13th : — its appearance did not realize the expectations which 1 had formed of it, from the description of some travellers. It is a pleasing, rather than a splendid scene, more pic- turesque and interesting, than grand and romantic. The various islands — the shipping, steam-boats, fishing boats— the churches — the extent of the town — the gentle hills—* the numerous scattered houses on the islands — the pretty villages —the excellent cultivation'^and the noble orchct I;,,' .'■!.« 80 UNITED StATKS. ards, render it a very gratifying scene. Tlie city is situ- ated on Manhaltnn Island, and rovers a great extent of ground. It is the grand mart c»f tlie coninicrce and enter- prise of the United States. It possesses a safe and spacious harbour, scarcely ever been frozen up, until last winter, January and February, 1836, memorable to this city, from that circumstance, and the awful conflagration which consumed so much of its wealth and splendour. On the afternoon of our arrival, we found that the Go- vernor of the State of iNew York, Hon. W. L. Marcy, was expected from Albany on a visit to the city. Great preparations were made to give him a flattering recep- tion, and hearty welcome. He is a deservedly popular The Infantry and cavalry were called out on the man. occasion, and formed in a long line in front of the street where he landed. Bonaparte truly said that there was but one step from the sublime to the ridiculous, and here it was fully realized. In England a military spectacle on such an occasion would have been a grand sight, here it was not only a failure, but ridiculous. The crowd con- tinually broke the line of the infantry, in crowding to the landing place. There were a great concourse of specta- tors, and the Governor received their hearty acclamation. He came from Albany in a magnificent steam-boat called the North America. The Broadway is a majestic street, nearly dividing the city, eighty feet in width, more than three miles in length, and filled with«idmirable stores ftiid noble buildings. The Battery, the Castle garden, and the Park are interesting objects, and at Niblo's 1 now aft fine a collection of flowers and fruits, at a public exhibit tion, ad I ever witnessed at any of the floral and borficul- taral exhibitions in England. The City Hall, built o( white nntrble, is a superb and massive structure^ its length is 216 feet, its breadth 105 ftet The police room, tttt UNITED STATEff. 81 court of alilernien, the city council hold their tiieetings lun-ii iu dibtinct and handsome rooms. The council cham- bev has some excellent paintings in it ; the churches are jiEjf l)uildii)gs ; the largest of those belonging to the Epis- ;i*, with several excellent stores, the houses arc remark- ably cle.in and commodious ; there is a very large inn named after the place, immediately adjacent to Oneida creek, extending twenty-five miles to the Oneida lake, riie canal is here carried over the waters of this creek, and passes through a most fertile country. It is remark- ably picturesque, and the lands appear of the best quality : the new settlements arc progressing rapidly. At a short distance tliere is an Indian village. Lenox Basin is the next settlement ; there is a good bridge passes over the canal here, and the country on each side seems well set- tled and very fertile. Canastot^ is a neat, pretty, and nourishing village : there are fine and extensive pastures round it — met here for the first time several Indians-^the houses are lofty and well built — the factories appear very flourishing, and the tout ensemble exhibits the appearance of wealth and prosperity. There are four good bridges over the canal, and the roads arc represented round this part of the country as excellent. There is a fine large basin here, surrounded by ware-houses. New Boston is a small village, containing few houses, but the land around it is apparently of the finest quality. There is from this place a most beautiful hanging wood of bass, elm, maple, hickory, chesnut, hemlock, and oak gracefully fringing the banks of the canal, and extending nearly seven miles. At Chitteningo, the next village, there are several fine houses, spacious inns, two new churches, and excellent farms around it. 'i'his is a very fertile and picturesque rjountry. There is a large boat builder^s here; under the house is a dock for the repairs and shelter of boats. From this village to Manlius, fine corn-fields, good houses, and ^^."^ h ^aV ^Vj^^"^ IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■^ Uii 12.2 ui Hi US, 12.0 ■u U i Ml 1^ i^ 1^ PhotogTdphic Sdences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SM (71«)S72-4S03 '^ 92 C'MlKn ^.i TATE 53. large orchards, are seen on boili skleo of tlic cunrik 'Uierc are several hamlets between this and Lime-stone Creek, a creek, with a fine canal leading to the nourishing and picturesque village of Orville, a njile and a half distant. A splendid grove, of majestic butter-nut trees, fringes the margin of the canal here for a considerable disiance, Orville is on the turnpike road between Uiica and Syra- cuse, in the centre of a rich and flourishing agricultural district. Syracuse is a flourishing place and carries on a most extensive trade ; a side canal branches off* from it to Salina, where the celebrated salt works covering 600 acres of ground are to be seen. The buildings in Syra- cuse are in general of a superior description, and mostly brick. It was only fourteen years before, a forest, now, a handsome and elegant town. The Syracuse Hotel is a most noble brick structure, four stories high; from the cupola at the top is a most varied, extensive, and magnifl^ cent prospect, combining the canal, the Onondaga lake, the village of Salina, and a rich agricultural country. This is by far the best route to Canada, by the Salina canal, the Onondaga lake, and the Oswego Canal, to lake Ontario. It is a saving in time, distance, and expense to take this route, in preference to that either by Rochester or Lockport : and any individual who has once experi- enced the comfort of the Oswego Hotel, and the kindness and attention paid to travellers by Mr, Ives, would never think of proceeding further than Syracuse on the Erie canal, if his ultimate destination is Upper Canada. From here to Jordan, passing by the villages of Geddysburg — nine mile creek, a tributary from the Onondaga lake — Camillas, and Canton, the country is in progress of set- tling, and the growing crops appear very promising. At this village a large and well finished hotel is erected, called Unittn Hall. Weed's Port is situated in a very fertile district have b( appear very li stumps a most runnin consta canals andSc head (i are er( possib marsh and m lish sy and i: The c and I scarle about rayed the h] ther 1 the V admi and cann cana beec side vilh eral es. lliMTEl) STATES. 93 district, rapidly increasing, two very handsome churches have been erected, some fine houses and taverns, and it appears a place of considerable trade — the pastures are very luxuriant, and the crops, growing in the midst of stumps, looked very flourishing. At Port Byron there is a most extensive flour mill, turned by a delightful stream, running into the Cayuga lake ; it has ten run of stones constantly at work. At Lake Port there are branch canals diverging to the right and left, to the lakes Cayuga and Seneca. At a short distance before arriving at the head of the Cayuga lake, several long and elegant bridges are erected, and here are miles and miles of the finest possible marsh land. After passing over this extensive marsh, the canal wijids through a beautiiul grove of lofty and majestic button wood trees, very similar to the Eng- lish sycamore. This lovely grove extends three miles, and is as splendid a woodland scene as I ever beheld. 'I'he day was most serene and agreeably warm (May 24,) and I was delighted with the exquisite plumage of the scarlet, yellow, and blue birds with which these woods abounded : all nature seemed teeming with life, and ar- rayed in its holiday livery. There are three varieties of the blackbird, one, black altogether, beak and feet : ano- ther black, with the exception of some bright crimson in the wings : the third called the bobbylink, with a little admixture of white in his wing ; its notes are so peculiar and difficult of imitation, that even the mocking bird cannot successfully catch them. Along the banks of the canal to Clyde, the country is finely wooded with maple, beech, and basswood trees. The canal runs along the side of a small river called the Clyde, on which a new village named after it, has been formed, consisting of sev- eral large and well built houses, with taverns and churcb^ es, The land in the vicinity is extremely good, and the 94 UMTED SIATKS. windings of the river, with its gently rising and j)rctulv wooded banks, renders it a delightful and very pleasing valley. The church is an elegant structure ; there arc several good factories, and one glass house of great size. The Clyde river, formed by the outlet of Canaiidaigua lake and Mud Creek, unite at Lyons, rhe capital of Wayne county, and one of the prettiest towns on the whole route of the canal. The population exceeds 4,000. It is not possible to conceive a situation more judiciously selected for a town than this. Tlie beautiful low banks ol the Clyde thickly studded with butternut and sugar maple trees, of majestic growth, surrounded by fine large orch- ards of the choicest fruit trees — extensive corn-fields and meadows — the canal above it with a noble overhanging wood on its banks — the neat houses and churches of Ly- ons — the well laid out gardens, filled with choice flowers and fruit trees, all conspire to render this town a scene of rural beauty and prosperity not to be surpassed. There is an agricultural and an horticultural society here, and many English and Scotch farmers have settled in this charming vicinity. After leaving this place, there arc several small, but increasing villages, but the land becomes swampy; between BushnelPs and Pittsford, the great em- bankment of the Erie canal commences. It must have been a work of prodigious labour, its elevation above the surrounding country, being at least seventy feet. The prospect from it is very extensive. Pittsford is an interest- ing village, surrounded by land of excellent quality, con- taining many large, well built houses, with a church sur- mounted by a spire of extraordinary beauty. The inter- vening county to Rochester, a distance of ten miles, is very fine and in progress of clearing. Rochester, in 1812, was a deep forest, the retreat of the wolf and the panther : it now contains a population of more than 14,000 persons, ueidi UNITED STATES, 95 twelve or rourteen chiirclies, many splendid buildings, iitid a coiiecdon of nnlis and manufactories, scarcely to be equalled in any portion of America. Our boat was weighed at Rochester — the method of weighing is cutjous, though simple. The boat is conveyed on to the scales by water, the scales being forced below it by the boat — the water is then turned off at a lock, leaving the boat sus- pended on a large stillyard, by means of heavy chains. '1 he frame work on which this stillyard rests, and to which it is attached, is accurately poised by weights in the opposite scale, bringing it into an exact balance ; the weights superadded give the precise weight of the boat, by which the tolls are regulated. The packet boats on the canal are drawn by three horses, and travel much more expeditiously than the line boats which are drawn by two only ; the accommodations are also considered superior, persons who wish to see as much as possible the country through which they pass, should travel by the latfer con- venience, as they can walk on the banks of the canal as they please, and still keep pace with the boat. There are 13 large flour mills at Rochester, with 52 run of stones, making annually 350,000 barrels of flour. Through the kindness of the proprietor, I had an oppor- tunity of examing the largest flour mill — it has 16 run of stones, and can make 500 barrels of flour daily. The canal aqueduct over the Genesee river, at this place, is one of the most gigantic works on the whole canal line. There are many saw-mills, tanneries, and manufactories : indeed the water power supplying the works equally on both sides of the river, is almost as incredible as it is in- exhaustible. One mill covers more than two acres of ground, and flfteen million feet of lumber are sawed here annually. Immediately below the town are the great Genesee falls of 90 feet, extending across the river, which 9g UiMTii^l^ STATES. is of good breadth. Never having before seen a lall of water of great magnitu^^-'j I was quite astonished at ilie magnificence of the scene, and continued for some time gazing at it in rapturous wonder. At Carthage, two miles distant, tlicre is another fall of 70 feet, surrounded by a romantic country, and the splendid expanse of Ontario in front. Merchandise to and from lake Ontario, Ibrward- ed from Rochester, is raised or lowered down the great and steep descent of the Genesee, by means of an inclined plane, the descending weight raising a lighter one. . Tiie following statement of the mechanical and manu- facturing operations of this village are extracted from a Rochester paper : Flouring Mills Cotton do. Woolen do. Leather &c. Iron Works Rifles, &;c. Soap and Candles, Groceries, &c. Tobacco, Pails, Sasli, &c. Boat Building Linseed Oil, Glove Factories, Since completing the account of Rochester from my notes, I have been enabled to add the following more recent account of this very thriving and important town. FLOURING MILLS AT ROCHESTER. Amid the multitude of machinery with which the Genesse is studded, the flouring establishments are conspicuous. There ate now within the city of Rochester twenty-one mills, with ninety-five runs of stone, capable of manufacturing five thousand barrels per day. Twenty thous- and bushels of wheat are daily required for these mills when in full operation. The immense consumption of the raw material oecasioned by such au extensive manufacture^ furnishes to the rich wheat^growing INVESTMENT. ANNUAL AMOUNT. $281,000 $,1,3^31,000. 56,000 30,000. 70,000 112,000. 25,000 166,000. 24,000 46,000. 3,000 5,000. ' 6,000 45,000. 21,000 32,800. 4,500 > 18,000. 2,500 12,000. 11,000 40,200. 3,000 4,000. 10,000 15,000. $ 571,000 $ 1,857,000. UNITED STATES. 97 region nrouiid Rocliester a reudy market, while it drawa considerable ^iipplieiD from the shores of Erie and Ontario. Besides the wheat drawn front llie surrounding country and from Ohio, some of the Rochester nuilers imported in 1635 from Canada (subject to heavy duty) about 100,000 bushels. Tiiree of the above mentioned mills have been erected last year, and constiderable improvement has been made in some of the others. These three mills contain seventeen runs — which, with the seventy-eight runs in the other eighteen mills, forms the total of ninety-five runs. As hns been remarked in the ^'Traveller's Guide", published by Da- vidson of Saratoga, "some of the Rochester mills are on a scale of magni- tude unsurpassed in the world ; all are considered first rate in the per- fection of their machinery, and so eflfective is the whole flouring appa- ratus, that there are several single runs of stones which can grind (and the machinery connected therewith bolt and pack) one hundred barrels of flour per day !" And such is the character and extensive demand for the article, that beside the quantity shipped for foreign countries, the '''Rochester brands," may be seen equally at Montreal or Wash- ington — at (Quebec or New York — at Boston, Hartford, Charleston, or New Orleans. The total amount of capital invested in the twenty-one mills exceeds half a million of dollars (640,000) as was ascertained on a late accurate examination, by Thomas H. Rochester, Esquire, one of a Committee appointed by the Common Council to collect the stat- istics of the city. Williams' **Annual Register" for 1S35, mentions the Rochester mills as only fourteen in number, with sixty-four runs of stone — but, by the statements here made, it will be seen that the mills are one-third more numerous, and the capital invested about double the amount given in the Register. The avidity with which mill property has been sought, and the additions made to it during the present sea- son, indicate clearly strong confidence in its permanent worth. The water-power of the two great falls at Rochester is estimated as equal to 1,920 steam engines of twenty horse power. The total value of this water-power, calculated according to the cost of steam power in England, is almost incredible to those unacquainted with such sub- jects—amounting as it would to nearly ten millions of dollars (9,718- 372) for its annual use. When in connection with this vast water-power we consider the great facilities which Rochester enjoys (by lake, canal and river) for receiv- ing wheat and other raw materials from, and shipping flour and other mannfactures for, all desirable points either in the United States or the Can6das» wemay fully appreciate the importance of the present mill- 13 9B iJMTEU STATED* ing and manufacturing establishments, and confidently unticipolc the continued prosperity anil protective greatness of the city." This is another loiite to Upper Canada, as Rochester is but seven miles distant from lake Ontario, and con- nected with it by rail road, 'i he steam-boats of Jake Ontario land and take in passengers at Rochester. Al- though this route is preferable to that by Lcwiston, I think Oswego is still the best ; it is situated on the lake itself, is but thirty-eight miles from Syracuse, w hereas Rochester is 100, and then seven miles from the lake, the difference in crossing over to Canada, whether from Rochester or Oswego, being of no account. After leaving Rochester, the next three villages on the canal, are built on the site af basins connected with side streams, consisting of a few ware-houses, inns, and pri- vate dwellings. Spencer's Basin, Adam's Basin, and Cooley's Basin. The country between Cooley's Basin and Brockport is very fine, the soil of superior quality^ and exteni^vely cleared. Brockport is a handsome and stirring place, houses extremely neat, mills and factories numerous and extensive — the churches commodious and Well built — the farms large and the land good. There are few places on the canal presenting better appearances of (fomfort and prosperity. The country between this place and Oak Orchard, twenty-four miles, presents the same appearance of new villages, land recently cleared, orch- ards newly made, and from the size and quality of the timber, the indication of a rich soil. Oak Orchard is very beautifully situated ; there is a fine fall of water, rushing down a steep precipice, into a stream which Oleanders through a romantic glen, finely diversified with trees of various kinds and growths: immediately above, and overlooking the falls, is a handsome stone bridge — the churches look neat and well finished buildings, and UNITED STATES. 99 the houses comfortable. Middleport and Reynold's Basin arc surrounded by choice land, and have the advantage of excellent roads. At Gosport there Is a burning spring which emits a large quantity of gas — a stream of it is di- rected into a lamp, which is ignited at night and gives a powerful light. Between this place and Lockport, the land is very good, and the new settlements large and prosperous. At Lockport is the last of the series of locks to Lake Erie, which brings the Rochester level to that of Erie^it is effected by five double locks of twelve feet each. The upper and lower village are divided by the locks — the upper above the locks, the lower beneath them . Lockport has three excellent taverns, and there are sev- eral very handsome buildings in both towns, especially a church and terrace in the Lower. The farms are large and well cultivated round Lockport, especially towards lake Ontario, and those skirting on the ridge road. In many of the orchards very choice fruit trees had been planted. I saw some Indian boys at Lockport wha were very expert with the bow and arrow; they contin- ued amusing the spectators a long time by hitting a cent fixed in a stick, at twelve paces distant. They^were ve- ry d<3xterous marksmen, and received the cent ^as their reward, every time they struck it w^h the arrow^ The Indians have two settlements ne^ Lockport'; one at Tonawanta, the other at Tuscarora. May 28. Most dreadful thunder and lightning storm : the lightning was awfully grand. 29th and SOtb, rode round the country looking at new farms, and lands for sale on the Ridge Road. We came, in the woods, to a place in progress of settlement, where General Dearborn's army encamped. On many of the trees the officers and men had carved their names : they were still in gooil preservation, <^with uncouth rhymes and shapelesi? seulp- 100 TNITET) bTATKS. tiire decked." By this time, the axt has levelled most of them with the ground. The majestic exuhcraiice ot'these forest trees, particularly the huge and stalely black wal- nut, situated in deep and romantic glens, with jMnliii^ brooks of limpid water running through them: the more gentle and retiring beauty of the newly formed, rich and vcrdan^t meadows : the promising appearance of the in- fant corn-fields, aided by the delightful breezes wafted from die magnificent waters of Lake Ontario, rendered this a very agreeable excursion. The botanist in thrse deep woods would find an almost inexhaustible source of amusement and instruction in the great variety of medi- cinal and other plants with which they abound. June 1st. Went to see the new roads forming from ].aste and luxuriant bouatiea oC nature, and the enjoyment of those gifts which Heaven has scattered upon regions uncultivated ahd unoccupied, cannot be considered without giving rise to a great number of pleasing ideas, and bewilder- ing the imagination in delightful prospect.*'— JoAnion'a lift of Savage ** There is no occasion to exaggerate, where plain truth is of so much weight and importance. But whether I put the present member* too high or too low, is a matter of little moment. Such is the strength with which population shoots in that part of the world, that state the numbers as high as we will, whilst the dispute continues, the exagger- ation ends. Whilst wo are discussing any given magnitude, they are grown to it. Your children do not grow faster from infancy to man- hood, than they spread from families to communities and from village* to nations.'' — Burke's Speech on conciliation with America. *"*<>•' CHAPTER X. The great drawback to the prosperity of England is her immense population, compared with the labour required of them — the extent of surface, fertility of soil, salubrity of climate, rail roads, canals, new villages, and an im- mense country being rescued from a wilderness, renders a great augmentation of population of paramount advant- age to Canada, and without which her present capacities must be neglected— antl whilst emigration would 9p ma- ^ *; 104 UPPER CANADA. terially improve Canada, what blessings it might impart to thousands of poor and deserving inhabitants ut'lhe mother country. In attempting to lessen the numbers of the people by emigration, and also to Improve the condition of all parlies interested, namely, those who emigrate, and those who remain in the mother country, one thing is obvious — that a district is known to exist, and is at the command of the parties which offers advantages, greater than are possessed at home. If it were iu)t so, emigra* tion would fail in its main object, and would tend to ag- gravate the evil sought to be removed, becanse the parties emigrg|ting, instead of bettering their condition, would render it worse, and the mother country would not only be taxed with the expense of conveying them to their destination, but from the responsibility with which it is bound to them as a Colony, would also have to contribute more to their maintenance than it did before, the value of the means of support being materially enhanced by the cost of transfer. The main object, that of lessening the numbers of the people, without diminishing the means of subsistence in the same ratio, would thus be frustrated ; and as this is the only waj' by which the condition of a people can ever be amended, when they have arrived at the highest point of profitable production, it is necessary that it should be recognized as a primary and fixed prin- ciple, whether speculating on these matters, or carrying them into actual practice. . Notwithstanding, the advantageous n&tqre of a coun- try, and which causes it to be chosen, as fit for coloni^^l- tion, em\p9iima will be mainly dependant for its succesSj upon thettdieiit and industry comprised amongst the em- igrants, and upon the constant and unremitting means of subsistenoe, or available substitutes for them, springing up in. a Spontaneous profusion, even where the greatest UPPER CANADA. 105 fertility exists, but that the same industry and persever- ance must in some measure be exercised, which was re- quired of them in the mother country : the results from idleness and indiflerence being in this state, as in all oth- ers, uniformly productive of ruinous consequences and degradation : whilst from the opposite course of conduct, with superior advantages than the mother country, benefits naturally accrue far greater than are enjoyed by her — and tills it is which must always make emigration desirable to men who wish to improve their condition. If no cer- tain advantage existed, and which almost places the end of the speculation beyond a doubt, no thinking men, such as are really fit for emigration, would embark in it ; and as the belief in an Eldorado, is now exploded, even amongst the most visionary, men are aware, that the means of a comfortable subsistence, depends entirely upon unremitting exertion ; and when there is a certainty of its being obtained upon these terms, they are always wil- ling to exercise them, and it will be found, that emigra- tion offers wonderful advantages worthy of their conside- ration, whether the mother country be relieved by encour- aging them to emigrate or not. The facts that lead me to this conclusion are of ready demonstration. They are first — The smallness of the engagements of the Colony, which under proper management, are only such as can- not be dispensed with, and the existence of which are far more beneficial than otherwise, inasmuch, that they coun- teract evils of a greater magnitude, than the costs at which they are maintained. Second — There being no pauper population, according to the acceptation of the term in thickly populated countries, in existence, nor, if the errors of the old country are avoided, as we would a dangerous' beacon, not even the germs allowed the opportanity of ever producing it :^rSo that whatever of the means of' .**! ■t'fii,, . , rt'' mm ,jf. ■> '■•w» , , ^h „ri<-''«'> • :,ia, 'tmkkii .",'■; '£»-«,.■ u t'f-4 106 UPPER CANADA. subsistence is produced, will belong exclusively to the producer, excepting so much as is really necessary, for affording mutual protection, and which it is his interest to afford ; and it will not have to be diminished to satisfy a series of oppressive and tortuous imposts, or to administer to the necessities of an idle or unproductive neighbour. One fact here obtrudes itself upon our notice, and that is, that a lazy, profligate, untalcnted set of emigrants could never much amend, if at all, their situation by emi- gration. To the individuals who do emigrate, if they make a judicious selection of the part of the world they intend to settle in, there is a certunty of their circumstan- ces being unproved, and particularly as Etiglatid is situa* ted, overpowered by burthens that are tinexampled in ancient or modern times. A removal from Great Britain to Canada* muist be a change materially for the better, and all who take advantage in emigration of either gcH vernment prefects, or of other circumstances, will never repent ; that is, if they are determined to exert themselves and isacrifice their prejudices to their happiness. Feeling deeply fttr the planters in the West Indies, and knowing from the fatal experience of St. Domingo and 0ther places, bow uncertain the tenure of their prosperity 19, and dreading least after 1840, their bright prospects may be destroyed, I would strongly urge them to invest all their surplus capital in the Banks, and other public work3 in Canada, which will give them extraordinary profit on their investment ; and if to that, they purchase in good situations, a choice farm, they can look fbrward with « certainty to a refuge against any of the calamities which may await them, consequent on the alteration in their social system. There are two classes of persons to whom emigration c&peeially holds out the most solid advantages, viz, indus^ UPPER CANADA. 107 (rioiisagricultnral labourers, and persons with small cap* ital, having, or likely to have, large families. The former are certain of employment and full remuneration, and since benevolent societies have been formed from Quebec to Hamilton, to give information to emigrants where they can find employment, relieve them if necessitous, and provide for them if overtaken by sickness, no one, how- ever poor, need apprehend any thing, but improvement to his circumstances, by coming to Canada. I shall have occasion to show how the venerable and benevolent Earl Egremont has benefitted hundreds of poor persons, whom he rescued from the tyranny of the work-houses, and sent to happiness and independence iii Canada. This dignii^ lied and philanthropic Baron has, in a great degree, fur>* nished the means of sending thirteen thousand poor per- sons to this Province. The latter, if mechanics, or been used to farm small patches of land in England, themselves,- are certain of success — I shall produce instances of this. But truth compels me to say that others, who have come to Canada with a tolerable capital, but who have been* always accustomed to the elegance, refinements, and lux- uries of civic life, lured by the cheapness of wild land,; and desirous of becoming owners of a tract of 500 or 1000 acres, have exhausted a great portion of tkeir capital, and~ have endured privations and distress almost inconcelva^ ble. Remote from market^-^secluded from society — >at a distance from mills,almo8t inaccessiUe for want of roads-^ without medical aid, and altogether deban^ed the privilege of public worship they find themselves on tbdr new estate, with an axe in their hand ; labour difficult to be procured and extravagantly liigh ; in the midst of a thick forest, whose lofty trees are to be displaced by a labour almost Herculean, before they can erect the most humble shelter, or cultwate the smallest patch* In this statt of 108 UPPER CANADA. helplessness and misery they are surprised by a Ca- nadian winter of four or five months duration, become sickened, disappointed, disf5usted, heartbroken, and not iinfrequently die. A very melancholy inslance of this nature came under my observation last autumn. They never take into calculation the expense of clearing and fencing, which if they were to superadd to the cost of theii wild land, would prove they were actually making a worse bargain, and a dearer purchase, than purchasing a farm partially cleared, with a house, buildings, and orchard, independent of the other obvious advantages — facilities for public worship and education — post-office — good roads, near neighbours, proximity to market, mills, iUid other stores. Married men, with families and small capital, say from £100 or less to £300, should never think of buying land at first — they ought either to rent a farm, pr take one on shares for three or five years. Opporto- nities of renting farms are frequently to be met with. A recent instance has occurred within my own observation, of a respectable young couple having rented a farm with- in two miles of Ancaster, for four years, consisting of 90 acres of cleared land, with a house, barn, good orchard — the use of a span of horses and 12 ewes— ^15 acres of fallow ground, and ten acres of good grass to commence with, the whole for £35 sterling a year. No person can deny that by his own labour and industry, an excellent living may be made from such a farm, and a good insight obtained of the country at a very reasonable rate. ]f persons of small capital buy land, it absorbs all their capital, and leaves nothing for stock or improvement ; or one instalment is paid, and they are burdened with a heavy interest in the balance, and a risk of losing the properly if they fail in defraying the subsequent instal- ments and interest, llbe interest would nearly pay tbe rent < enipU laid wild advai with a fan with hous< UPPER CANADA. 109 rent ( i a partially cleared farm, and the capital could be employed to a much better and more profitable account — laid out in stock or of her more productive investment than wild land, three-fourths of which cannot be turned to any advantage for many years. A person of similar means, with less ambition and more judgnient, has purchased a farm, in a well settled neighbourhood, of 200 acres, with 100 cleared and in cultivation ; on it a comfortable house, and well stocked, which will cost from £750 to £10C0, he is then surrounded by the means of good living : is within the reach of society ; has a school and chiirch and post-office in the vicinity, becomes independent and prosperous, with the opportunity before him, of well pro- viding for his children. He purchases the farm of an old settler, who again retires to the distant wood, to clear another for his own family, or some future small capital- ist. The persons who are best adapted and calculated for clearing wild land, and the only classes who turn it to profitable account are the natives of this Province, and farmers from the United States, who being perfectly well acquainted with theilescription of labour to be performed, and the difficulties necessary to be undergone, are quite in. their element on a lot of wild land. If a person will not hesitate to sacrifice many comforts and luxuries of an old settled country, to obtain the more solid advantages of a less crowded population and a cheaper soil — to with- draw from the burdens and difficulties, without retiring from the protection of his native land, and without in- volving himself with obligations to another government which might make him the enemy of his own — to settle though in a distant Colony^ amongst his fellow country- men and fellow subjects, perhaps his very townsmen and neighbours, within means of instruction for his children and opportunities of public worship for his family, there 110 UPPER CAiNADA. is no question but with industry and frugality lie must succeed. 1 have scarcely beheld a more gratifying spec- tacle than that which is wiinessed every summer in this Province when Lord Egremont's emigrants arrive. — Crowds who have become happy from the benevolence of this good man, meet their neighbours as they proceed through the country, congratulating and cheering them, bidding them heartily welcome, an Upon thy back hangs ragged misery; — The world is not thy friend, nor the world's law; The world affords no law to make thee rich.'* "^ -: ' " The principle on which they act is, that parents who are giving birth to children they are unable to support, are to be removed to a well disciplined workhouse, se- parated, and made to work hard, until they had shown that they can be returned to society without becoming a burthen to it^ either as regards themselves or their ehild- ren. The grand affair ^eems to be lost sight of, that die inability to support themselves and families, does not 112 UPPER CANADA. « proceed from them, but their inability to obtain \vork,an(l proper remuneration for it. The quantity of food is to be less than that of a free labourer, and of a coarser kind, and he is compelled to work harder. Another of the labourers whom Lord Egremont sent out from an English work house and who settled near Ancaster is now the owner ofa farm of fifty acres, twen- ty of which are cleared,with a log house, a span of horses, a waggon, a cow, hogs, poultry, &c. In addition to this, be sent home last year the means to enable his brother and his wife to come to Canada, which they did at his request, and are like him doing well. How much more creditable to the government — how honorable to the nation — how much more beneficial to the Parishes, to have furnished the means to poor, indus- trious labourers to emigrate, than to decree that confine- ment in their lazar-houses should be the penalty of want of work. They trepan or Impress them to fight their battles both by sea and land, to explore their mines, to erect their splendid buildings, and to undergo perilous voyages for the promotion of trade and science — then, af- ter a long life spent in these laborious pursuits, if they require some small relief they are to be consigned to a Government Work-House, there to end their days in mi- sery. I have said that emigration offers great advanta- ges to those sturdy and powerful British farmers who have always accustomed themselves and their families to the labour of a farm. An individual of this description from Hampshire came out to this Province, and bought 1000 acres of land, ten miles distant from London, in the London District. He brought with him four stout, able bodied sons; they have now by their conjoint exertions cleared 75 acres,— 'got a comfortable house, good barn, plenty of stock, the means of happiness within themselves now, iMudi Poclv 4lmt pro\ iijorc tmg TJPPER CANADA. 115 now, the certainty of it, as far as human foresight can ileiermine, for their respective fainiiics in future. Mr. JMudie ill his valuable little work called the Cmigrant'i Pocket Couipauion, speaking of the paternal solicitude 4l)ut would induce a parent to emigrate with a view to pro\ ide for a nunieroos family, says : "There can be no more rational and even praiseworthy ground of eniigra- liitg thai) that ; and he who can clearly act upon it, who sees how those children who are a burden to him in the country where he is, may be wealth and comfort to him in the country to which he is going — and that their joint labour will not fail to place all who are dear to him in independence and even in affluence, when he shall be ta- ken from them -should by all means emigrate." It requires but a very slight acquaintance with this country to be well assured, that here, every poor man, if he be industrious, can provide abundantly for his family, by any kind of labour, manual or mechanical : — for here ihfi poorer clas^ of the people are free from those imposts and burdens, that exorbitant price for rent and all the necessaries of life, and those scanty wages of productive toil, which, so often, sends the European supperlesstobed, moistens his pillow with the sweat of his brow, and be- dews his couch with the tears of unavailing anguish, while his children cry unto him for bread, and he has none, wherewith to still their wailing, and to appease their hunger. What an extenisive field of employment for the practical philanthropist Canada presents : what misery might be relieved*-^ here are Indeed some illustrious instances of philanthropy to be met with amongst the wealthy in Great Britain, as in the case of Earl E^remont« Lord Uy tesbury, Marquis of Bute, Joseph Marriage of Chelmsford, and others who b«ive furDi^hed ttie means of ^migratioii to the 15 -^:>^i.. If 4 UPrER CANADA. konest and industrious poor in tlieir immediate neiglibour-^ hood, contributing to their removal from scenes of bitter distress and strong temptation to crime: enabling them to exchange beggary for independence, starvation for plenty, and idleness and disease for health and exertion. But alas! the alleviation of tlie distress of the unfortunate white man confers no public notoriety, such as the popu- lar cry of "no slavery :" besides it would cost something,, and the catch words of "suffering black brethren," and "immediate abolition," while they cost nothing, served admirably to endorse the utterer with the character of a person of the most sympathizing benevolence, and dis- tinguished virtue, and pointed him out as a superior can- didate for a seat in Parliament. The advantages of emi- gration to the home fabourers would be, that instead oF pining away and withering in an overstocked or exhaust- ed soil, they would go to strike root and flourish in one full of nourishment, and where there was ample room for all. 1 have heard that the patriotic Duke of Hamilton has purchased a large district of country, for the purpose of setding on the easiest terms, all the unfortunate and industrious poor in his vicinity. In Canada the forests would be cleared, the ground would be cultivated, and corn and hay would be raised, where thistles and wiM flowers now spring up ; towns and villages, and hantlets, those numerous scenes of fru- gality, industry, morality, and happiness, would improve, enlarge and multiply ; civilization would be carried out over many parts that are now large wildernesses and un- inhabited wastes ; arts and manufactures would be grad- ually introduced ; the wealth of the Province and the prosperity of all classes in it, would be increased — and along with that its increasing value and importance to* the parent state^ and its power and inclination of mwn^ UPPER CANADA. 115 (laming its rights against attacks from whatever quarter ^hey might emanate. There are some incidental circum- stances which give Canada a vast |)re-eminence over any other British Colony, as a home for the surplus popula- tion of the mother country. Identity of language and sim- ilarity of laws are of great importance, but its*proximity to Great Britain — the cheapness and iacilities afforded in coming out, and the numbers already settled, must prove powerful inducements to those remaining behind, and who are hesitating where to go. However much our American neighbours may press emigrants to remain with them, and hold out to them every kind and flattering prospects ; well knowing their worth in a country, where forests are to be cleared, canals to be dug, and rail roads anade ; yet, Mr. Mudie's observations are too true, and - tion the following anecdote, wliich was told nie by a geiitleiiNiii in Up- per Canada. Certain American »{)eculutorM were in the habit uf tra- velling on the roads and in steam-boats along with emigrants inrwiy oi- rlved, and would insinuate thetmelves into their confidence, tender ad- vice, induce them to purchase land in the State:*, and implements of husbandry at a high rate, and, in short, tnkc eveiy advantage of their ignorance, plunder them, and too often reduce them to beggary. My informant said, that on one occasion, wlien he was coming up the Hud- 6on, he observed in the steam vessel a burly, ruddy-faet'd English farmer, to whom a sleek looking Yankee was paying particular atten- tion. My friend saw the game that was being played, and taking the farmer aside, he advised him to beware of his new friend. *^Biit how are we to know these swindiersl'' said Hodge; ^'perhaps you are one yourself!'' **Mel no, no," said the gentleman; **why I don't want to sell any thing to you. I'm your countryman: I only offer you ad- vice, for I wish to save you (here the American approached to listen to what was going forward;) but, whenever you see a d ■ d sneak- ing fellow shoving himself forward where he has no business, and list- ening to conversation which does not concern him, that i« a Yankee apecttlator;-^of him beware!" The American was unable to notice this severe rub, and edged off to mark down another quarry." FfOm the number of old and crazy and crowded ves- sels that were sent out with emigrants, and the numerous shipwrecks which occurred^ the attention of the Govern- D^ent has been, at length, forcibly directed to this subject, fiut as certainty and despatch are of immense conse- quence to an emigrant and his family, as well as cheap- ness, good vessels, and kind captains, it must be very gratifying, that Messrs. Robinson, Brothers, Bankers, Liverpool, have agencies established throughout England, Scotland, and Ireland : engage none but good vessels : are most punctual in sailing, and facilitate the views and Objects of emigrants as much as in iheir power. They t'PPER CANADA. 117 have vesbt'ls from ijivcrpool to New York, every week : to Quebec and Montreal every fortnight. Their ships are convenient and comfortably fitted up, and their command- ers arc skilful navigators. It is exceedingly desirable that an emigrant, inujicdintcly on landing, should call At the emigrant office for infonnntion, as the sooner he locates himself and obtains employ iitcnt, the better «' . At Quebec, Montreal, Kingston, Toronto, and Hamil* ton, societies have bc4.>n formed — and it is by far the most preferable route under the present well regulated state of things. If those, however, who intend coming to Cana- da, prefer making their voyage by New York, they should, by all means, immediately apply to the British Consnl for information as to their route, otherwise they are very liable to be deceived. Before sailing, 1 think emigrants should take some gen- tle medicine as a preparation for their voyage — rhubarb and magnesia — a dose of salts, in peppermint infusion— an aloetic pill, or any mild medicine that agrees with them — their diet, for a week previous, should be light, and spare — at sea, if severely sick, rest, and plentiful draughts of warm camomile tea, and a little rhubarb and blue pill, or equal parts of blue pill and aloetic pill when laying down, after the stomach has recovered its tone sufficient- ly to retain one. They should be careful to provide some good ginger, with which they can make tea, a most grate- ful diffusible stimulus, and a valuable stomachic. At the completion of their voyage, when resuming full diet, it is very beneficial to direct the bile into its proper and accustomed channel, by again taking mild medicine, combined with .an unirritating dose of blue pill. Poor emigrants travelling up the Erie canal from New York — or the Rideau canal from Bytown to Kingston, would do well to have some good powdered Ipecacuanha with 918 UPPER CANADA. them, and should they be seized with rigors, lassitude, headache, nausea, followed by thirst, and increased heat^ they should take an emetic of Ipecacuanha, immediately, and afterwards some laxative medicine in conjunction with calomel or blue pill. Tkose with families should especially take care that their children have been vaccina- ted before leaving home, as the small pox has been known to have been taken on board a ship and produced great ravages aovong the crew. The disease, most common to Europeans on their first arrival in Canada, consists in va- rious modifications of bilious disorder, and intermittent fever, sometimes dysentery, it has been variously ascribed to miasma, to imprudent exposure of the person, and drinking bad water. I think a fourth cause may be assigned, that has much to do with it, viz. the complete change in manner of living. To avoid;the first, in trav- ersing a marshy district, is scarcely possible — to guard against ill effects from the second cause, flannels should be worn next to the skin -^nd for the third, an admirable substitute for bad water may be found, in pouring boiling water on bruised ginger and making a weak ginger tea. To prevent the consequences of the fourth, ' more sim- ple and plain diet, such as broth from lean meat, gruel, porridge, bread, milk, and eggs should be preferred to the coarse, rank, and greasy diet toooiten set before them. -, « •1.. CHAPTER XI. V' •J>, Nothing can afford such an accurate indication of cli- mate, as correct meteoFoIogical data, and which, by the gran the 22n whic OPPKR CANADA. ri9* limliiess of Dr. Craigie, I am enabled to supply to Juljr 1836. I may observe generally that the atmosphere u greatly divested of the humidity so productive ol catarrhs and rheumatism in Gt. Britain, and tiiatit maybe char- acterized as clear and light, fogs not common, winters long and severe, summers short and intensely hot, scarce- ly any spring, but an Indian summer at the fall of the year, answering to the autumnal season, and for delicious mildness, not to be surpassed by any portion of the globe^ High winds are common in March, and dreadful thunder and lightning storms in August. When I speak of the winters being long and severe, I do not, by any means, consider that as a fault, but on the contrary, if the various agricultural societies should be the means of introducing good winter food for cattle^ nothing would be so cheering to the inhabitants, and be- neficial to the country, as such winters as the one we last passed through. The sons of St. Andrew were enabled by the excellent sleighing, to enjoy their annual festival, Nov. 30, 1835, at West Flamboro' — persons from Ancas- ter, Dundas, and Hamilton attending: and on new Year's eve, a ball was held at the same tavern, got up by the same party, at which upwards of one hundred persons at- tended. From the steady continuance of this delightful mode of travelling, persons from the most remote town- ships are enabled to make long journies, if necessary; — it is not at all unusual to travel four or five hundred miles in this manner. Immense business is effected during this lively st^ason, innumerable saw logs conveyed to the mill» grain brought to market, and chopping and clearing in the woods carried on. A person from Brantford, Mai'cli 22nd, 1836, writes thus : <* We are now drawing to the close of one of the leverett wmtos which has been known for some years in Upper Canada, and we iwqr 120 UPPER CANADA. look daily for an end as well to the amiisenientis wiiich it has ufToided by the excellent sleighing that has accompanied it, as to ail those oc- cupations to which it has given facility, rail hauling, wood drawing, &c. The farmer should now overhaul his plough, harrows, and im- plements of ail descriptions, that he may be prepared to take the titld as soon as Mother Earth is loosened from her shackles. The heavy fall of snow has been a great preservation to the grain, and from the show of the wheats before they were covered, fair crops may be antici- pated. The yards should, during the present month, as soon as they are loosened on the surface of the ground, be cleared from the manure, it is more easily collected into heaps at this season, and when the ground softens, much of it istrodden into the earth, and remains there after it becomes dry. He is a slovenly farmer who allows it year after year tolie about his barn, injuring the timber and poisoning the atmos- phere — ^let him gather it into heaps and get it upon his land as soon as possible, and the return will pay him for his labour. We would have our friends too think about their grass seeds, and we give them an ex- cellent hint from our contemporary, the Genesee Farmer, on SOWING CLOVER. *'Where it is intended to sow clover seed on winter grain, it should be done in the latter part of winter and before the thawing of the ground. It is a common practice to sow it in the spring, aAer the frost has left the soil— 'but as the ground has in this case become in a manner settled and dry, there is less chance of the seed vegetating, and as it falls merely upon the surface, it is prevented taking sufficient root to with- stand effectually the coming drought. But when sown earlier, the breaking and crumbling of the soil by the parting frost, mixes the earth with the seed niid it takes sufficient root before the dry season comes upon it. Tiiere need not be any appiehension that the seed by germi- nating too early, will be killed by the frost, as they never start below the temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit — which temperature it is obvious cannot exist until the ground is thawed, **A great loss always follows the practice of sowing too little seed. Twelve pounds to the acre is not too much in any instance and where the sail is poor a much larger quantity should be used. Farmers who wi»h to 9«ve expense by sowing only five or six pounds to the acre. Ipse more than five times os much by the deficiency of the crop — so that it is expensive economy at best. Besides, when clover is sown thinly, the growth is thin and coarse, on the contrary when there is fitfflpkcieiit ftced, the growth if fine and deqse, ^od the »t«ilk« are not r^jeetfd by cattle afi is otherwise the case. A thick growth 9l«o pre- UPPER CANADA. 121 vunte the admission of weeds, which so frequently disflgure thin mea- dows." Another person at Hamilton, April lOtli, 1836, writes thus : "THE WEATHER. **Tlie terinination of an unusually long and hard winter, even for Canada, has taken place. On the 19th of November, the country was tor the first time this season, covered with snow, a clothing which has cDiitinued, as the ancient historians would say, **even unto this day*" Tlje intensity of the cold for more than four months has seldom been equalled, even in the recollection of the oldest settlers; the thermome- ter during that period being frequently 30® below zero. The I'njuri- oii» effects which must have been produced by it, have been completely counteracted by the deep snow which fell and was renewed at inter- vals throughout the winter, until its depth, in many places, wair the cause of anticipated alarm of floods, with all their terrors, when the thaw would come. The mildness df the weather, however, for the last few days, and the gradual disappearance of the threatening enemy; have dissipated every fear, and the heart of the husbandman already begins to leap for joy. <*Upon the whole, the winter, notwithstanding its length and its severity, has been a pleasant one, and exceefdingly favourable to the farmer, the great depth of the snow not only protecting the crops in the ground, but preventing the penetration of the frost, so that a few days only will elapse ere the plough can be brought into complete and active operation. The sleighing throughout was incomparably tine ; affording amusement to the towns folk, almost amountihg^ to satiety, and yielding a facility for the transmission of every description of agri- cultural produce from the most remote parts of the Province. The prices upon an average, for grain, potatoes, pork, &c. were higher than usual, and the demand great, so that the coffers of the agricul- turist should now be tolerably well stored, and himself enabled to re- new hid annual duties with vigour and confidence. **filsnrd frosts still continue during the nights, but the days are de- lightfully iine,and the heat of the Sun is rapidly, though imperceptibly removing the Wmtry clotliing of white, which will speedily be supplied by our spring mantle of green. The farmer is actively employed in his preparations, and the mechanic as **busy as a nailor*' in forward- ing the means of his anticipated improvements. '^Emigration upofi an Unusuallygtand scale has commenced'amo'ngbt —the Pigeons ; and the town alid country Mongers are already ac- 16 122 UPPER CANADA. tively engaged in furnishing the housewives with the materials for si Pigeon pie. Crack, crack, crack, is the order of the day. Should the genuine emigration take place in an equal proportion, and the old wo- men say the hmumerable flocke of pigeons are a good sign, we antici- pate thatthe year 1836 will be a bright one for Canada. We will not darken the pleasing picture by even a glance at the political horizon." The late winter commenced in November, the sleigh- ing general on the 23d, and continued without intermis- sion during the whole of the months of December, Janua- ry, February, and March. Of its evident utility to the Province, I shall have occasion to speak, in showing the quantity of timber conveyed to some of the saw-mills du- ring those months. Of the delightful temperature and appearance of an Indian summer, I took notes, when ma- king a visit from Cayuga to Brantford, in the third week of October. I was two days performing the journey along the rich meanderings of the Grand River. They were certainly two fine, autumnal days, when from the early occurrence of frost, the foliage had begun to assume iti variegated appearance, before the falling of the leaf— and the beautiful tints and mellow hues far deeper and more diversified than in an European scene, often blended har- moniously in the same tree, or contrasted with the deep- est green of a kindred branch appearing too healthy and vigorous to be precursors of dissolution or symptoms of decay. The bright yellow of the walnut, the scarlet of the maple, the fresh green of the fir, and the sombre brown of the cedar, were often the most prominent colours ; but these were mingled with a variety of others more soft and delicate, melting imperceptibly into each other, and throwing a rich and luxuriant beauty over the gorgeous forest. The picturesque hills which sweep up from the river side, were sleeping in the mellow light of the season ; the distant village gleamed from a thin cloud, of light, blue vor, in the dreamy indistinctness of which the UPPER CANADA. 123 |joet loves to dwell ; the trees were just arrayed in that garb indicative of decay, which always lends so tender and melancholy an interest to scenery — and the waters gliding silently along here and there bore down an Indian canoe without even a ripple. The fragrance of the woods, the gambols of the squirrels, the coolness of the mornings and evenings gave an ethereal charm to the scene, fully justifying the indignant remonstrance of the poet against those who were not enamoured with nature's charms : They know not how the deepening trees. Dark glens and shadow rocks can please, ^ The morning blush, the smile of even : What trees, and lawns, and mountains mean, The dying gale, the breathing scene, ., The midnight calm, the whispering heav'n. Pickering's observations are quite correct— he says^ r "'J he winter is the most lively part of the year : when^ there is about four inches snow with frost, sleighing is universal, for business or pleasure, from one end of the Province to the other. A span of good horses coaveys- two or three persons in a sleigh forty or fifty miles a day, with ease, and they often go sixty or seventy. With warm clothing, a fur cap, and a bear or buffalo skin over the back and feet, it is a pleasant and very easy way of travelling, enlivened by the numerous sleighs and the jingling of bells, which the horses are required to wear."^ From Ancaster Church, to Vanderlip's tavern, a distance of litde more than three miles, across the Ancaster Plains, I counted sixty-four sleighs on the 20th of January, most of them bringing saw-logs to the mill, several on parties of pleasure, and others with grain for the stores. As a proof of the cheerfulness and hilarity consequent on this mode of travelling, we may instance the following animated account of a Canadian Poet. » ^ '^^ ^ 124 DPPER CANAD*. f" .1 THE SLEIGH BELL. Merrily dash we o*er valley and hilU AU but (he Sleigh-bell is sleeping and still, O, bless the dear Sleigh-Bell ! there's nought can comparr. To its loud nieri7 tones as they break on the ear. Our horses are staunch, and they dart o'er the snoNv^ Our bells ring gaily the faster we go. The night breezes sing with an answering swell. To the melody rude of the merry Sleigh-Bell. As swiftly o'er valley and mountain we rove, The moon riding brightly and calmly above^ Dull sorrow shall hear its inspiriting knell. In the loud cheerful notes ofihe merry Sleigh-Bell. Now kiss'd by the moon-beam, outstripping the winti. The cool sweeping night-gale is panting behind, , Nor leave we it aught our fleet pathway to tell, But the far-distant tone of the merry Sleigh-Bell. Where the white plain is smoothest in safety we ride. Where the deep drift is highest we fearlessly glide. O'er the steep we ascend, and we plunge through the deli. To the loud lively tone of the merry Sleigh-Bell. Though sweet is the note of tlie amorous lute. And mellow the tone of the soft-breathing flute, E'en the rich rolling voice of the organ's loud swell. Is nought to compare to the merry Sleigh-Bell. , , ^ THERMOMETBICAL OBSERVATIONS, ^ . ,_ TAKEN AT ANCASTER, DURING THE YEAR 1835. Mean height of the Barometer for (he year, ^. 16| ioches : its range from 28. 19 to 29. 82. Mean temperature of the year 45,318: of the first six months 40,372: of the last six months 50,253. Range of the Thermometer Trom — 7 to ^ 85?. Rain or spow during the year fell on 118 days, but on 50 of these there were only slight showers, giving an average of one rainy to 4 1-3 dry days, or ineluding every day, on which rain or snoMr fell. It 19 a observat rainy, tl fjeivalioi a series Durin and Au( tion whi( The f. 1932, a Durii tempers and 43" 40®: ii ture, no The gr Januar] in the n cashire kingdoi da, are Meal four ob Maxim 1835 Januar Februi March April. May. June. July. AuguG Sept't Octob Nov'b Dec'l Mean Ir nia(] will son UPPER CANADA. 125 It IS absolutely necessary to state, however, in regard to the above observatioiiH, that the whole year of 1835, was both colder and more rainy, than any preceding one, during the present century. Fromob- (ieivations on the temperature of spring water we believe that averaging a series of years, the mean temperature would not be under 50°. During the continuance of the hottest weather, in the months of July niid August, the nights are cool, preventing that lassitude and enerva- tion which would result from a long duration of uninterrupted heat. The following is the description of the climate of England, taken in 1933, and published in a work entitled Statistical Notes. During the six winter months, from October to March, the mean temperature of the central part of England is commonly between 42° and 43". In December, January and February, it is generally below 40 ® : in July and August, 62 ° to 65 ® . The mean annual tempera- ture, noon and night, ofthe central part of England, is about 50®. — The greatest heat seldom exceeds 80 ® , and the cold of December or January is rarely below 20® or 25°. The average quantity of rain in the northwest of England, particularly in Westmoreland and Lan- cashire, is 45, 50, and sometimes 60 inches, while the average of the kingdom at large is from 30 to 40. The prevalent winds, as in Cana- da, are from the west, southwest, and northwest. January. February March. April. May. June. July. August Sept'ber. October. Nov'ber. Dec'ber. 6. 5. Maxm.47 1. 0. Mean temperature at Ancaster, U. C, from four observations, viz: — Maximum and minimum at 7 A, M. andB P. M. 1835. Minm. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. Mean T. 28 25 20 125 33 22 42 86 55 5 62 3 67 26 64 14 54 5 50 73 ^ 99 25 95 45 318© 22. 34. 39. 45. 45. 35. 30. 10.. 7. «( 49 61 74 80 845 84 85 83 76 66 47 Mean temperature at Montreal, L. C, ob- servations made in 1835. January. February March. April. jVlay. June. July. August. Sept'ber. October. Nov'ber. Dec'ber. 17. 1 13. 7 29. 2 40. 2 55. 8 65. 5 70. 8 67. 8 56. 7 49. 38 9 10. 8 M. T. 42. 9 In the month of March, a great quantity of sugar is made from the maple; the trees are very numerous, and will yield from 3 to 5 pounds of sugar per tree,, each sea- son ; the quality nearly as good as muiscovado sugar, 126 UPPER CANADA. when properly made. I'lie process of making it is ex- tremely simple. As soon as the sap of the trees commen- ces running in the spring, the tree is tapped, as it is term- ed, which is done by boring a hole, with an inch auger, four inches deep — a tub is tlien set under, and the juice or sap is made to flow into it, by means of a trough. The trees run best when the days are warm and the nights frosty. This operation is performed upon a great num- ber at the same time, taking care to watch the tubs or pails that they may be emptied as soon as filled. The juice is evaporated by boiling down to the proper consis- tence. It has not so pleasant a taste, to my mind, as the sugar made from the cane, but I have no doubt but that it might be much improved in the manufacture. *'The maple sugar season is upon us now, and during the sunny days and freezing nights which we have towards the end of March and the beginning of April, the farmer, and the **farmer boys," may be seen in the maple lots with all their apparatus, buckets, spouts, ket- tles, &c., for manufacturing this valuable and delicious article. In time, it will be found in the Boston market, vieing in richness, and whiteness with the best loaf sugar. Thos€ who would have their sugar perfectly white, and free from the dark colour which much of it wears, have only to look well to their kettles, buckets, tubs, &c., before they receive the sap, as the colouring matter which darkens the sugar is all derived from — as much so as that which gives brandy its red appear- ance is derived from tlie pipes, barrels, &c., which contain it.'^A wri- ter in the Woodstock Courier suggests, that before the sap is put into the kettles, a little lime should be put in — say a teaspoonfull to a couple of barrels — in order to neutralize the vegetable acid which it contains. It should be stirred up and then allowed to settle to prevent the acid from decomposing the iron, which gives the sugar its black appearance, and causes it to colour the tea. The kettles should also, while warm, receive a thin coat of white wash, and when dry, the sap put in and kept boiling till it is **sugared off." . By a little attention of this kind, maple sugar may be made whiter than the best in the market and bring a high price to the producer." Of the admirable adaptation of this Province for frr t, I have been often well convinced by the immense quan- tity U s ing the ries, ra are gro ofgrap lofty The pe conseq the spr to nip. found where time of land, t of it in the san may b snow J keepin other f] TheH for his peach ably tl nofru to his sent I less a UPPER CANADA. 127 tity It spontaneously produces. In the deep woods skirt- ing the banks of the Grand River, apples, plums, cher- ries, raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, and currants, are growing in all directions. And the immense clusters of grapes, the vines hanging in graceful festoons from lofty trees, are well calculated to excite astonishment. The peach tree requires peculiar care and attention, in consequence of its shooting forth its blossoms so early iu the spring, which the least cold afterwards is almost sure to nip. The precaution to be taken, and which has been found successful in many parts of the northern section, where the peach had invariably failed before, is, at the time of the year when the snow is disappearing from the land, to take care and rake together and pile up a heap of it immediately around the roots of the peach tree, and the same should be pressed down closely, in order that it may be the last snow melted down in the spring. The snow around the roots of the tree will have the effect of keeping the sap down till it can put forth its flowers, like other fruit trees, without any danger from the frost or cold. The Hon. James Crooks, of West Flamboro', well known for his devotion to horticulture, planted a great many peach trees in a southern aspect, but finding that invari- ably the spring frost cut off all the blossoms and they bore no fruit, he planted some in a north-eastern position, and to his great gratification, found that although the trees sent not forth their blossoms so early, he had neverthe* less abundance of fruit. CHAPTER XII. It must be a source of great gratification to all fVicnds of British connection, tiiat tiie very liberal and judicious measures adopted by the American Land Company is likely to attract, into the Eastern townships of Lower Canada, a large influx of British settlers. There is a vast deal of excellent land, and abundantly watered, to be met with in this extensive tract ; its salubrity, proximity to market, contiguity to Montreal and Quebec, must ren- der it a desirable location, whilst the augmentation of native Britons must eventually neutralize that spirii of feudalism, which is opposed to the improvement and prosperity of a country. The cities of Montreal and Quebec have been so often and so well described, that I refer to tlie accounts given of them by otliers, merely ob- serving that the magnificent position of the latter, com- manding the majestic St. Lawrence below, with the beau- tiful country around it ; and the splendid cathedral of the former, with the lofty and richly wooded mountain, from whence it derives its name, with the lovely islands in the river are well worthy of being seen. "They are both so much like old European towns, and differ so widely from the airy, expansive cities of the United States, that an American feels as far from home on his first arrival in a Canadian city, as an European would in the forests on the Mississippi. As he looks round him, he feels more and more in a foreign land ; and the foreign language and gentle manners of the native Canadians confirm the fPPER CANADA. l29 impression. The pomp of monarchy/^ en when dimly seen in the regalia of a viceroy : the ah;! ^cro leal distinc- tions apparent even in a Colony : the vr^iji^es o .he feu- dal system to be traced in the surrounding seigno ies; &**. iNunneries and the Catliolic churches, with their ves( ^ and matin bells : the Catholic clergy walking in i»c streets ; arc all calculated to recall impressions connected rather with the old world, than with the beasts of the for- est. Here no gray tower meets the eye, to call back the imagination to scenes and incidents of elder times ; no monastic edifices to revive the memory of ancient things ; no regalia, transmitted through a line of Kings ; no fear- ful magnificence ; no baronial splendour : no sacred de- positories of the ashes of generations who have slept with their fathers during a thousand years : all is new, fresh, and prospective: and if the mind will take a retrospective glance, it is but to expatiate in the regions of fancy, or to lose itself in the clouds which rest on the early history of the aborigines." The British party are taking the best means of quieting the distractions which have hitherto checked the progress of the Province, by infusing a differ- ent body of people into the country, by paying every at- tention to their wants in the formation of roads — construc- tion of bridges -^erection of houses — establishment of milb, churches, schools, &c. — and by the disposal of the waste lands at an easy and reasonable rate. Both Que- bec and Montreal are distinguished by the number of lit- erary characters with which they abound. In the former there is a literary and historical society, not excelled in the vast continent of America. They possess a splendid mu- seum — a choice library — and a valuable philosophical apparatus. The following extract from their annual re- port wili fordbly pourtray the nature, extent, and Value of their labours. 11 '-War*-; y iiiit»— -• 130 tPPEU CANADA. "The Cauncil - ten — ^'Remember that Canada must not be lost or given away." — A happy day was it for Mr. Piapineau and hi^ friends when drat pro- clamation came forth from Q,uebec, for well do they know that the lion is aroused, and about to shake the dew from his mane. The noble animal ia not in haste to assail his enemies, but his spring will not be the less terrible. The disloyal upbraid the loyal, and they complain of the presence of troops and stab the soldier when defence- ti 134 UPPER CANADA. less and alone. Will they allow the British army to be marched out of Canada ? Not they — and ifthe Constitutionalists were to propose such a medsure to-morrow, Mr. Papineau would be the tirst to invoke their stay. Let them boast of their numbers; even though they be three to one, we fear them not — and were the troops recalled, or shut up within the walls of Q,uebec and the keys given to Mr. Papineau, the peopleof British origin would, with their strong arms and valiant hearts, by one mighty effort, arise and sweep the traitors from the face of the earth." *iThere are two vessels at present on the stocks in the ship-yards, near the city, both of which will be ready for launching as soon as the river is clear of ice. One is a barque of 401 tons measurement, own- ed by Messrs. James Millar & Co., and to be commanded by Captain Burns, formerly of the Favourite. The cabins of this vessel are now being finished in a most tasteful and superb manner, and when comple* ted will not be inferior in beauty and style to those of the New York packets. We believe we are but doing justice to the builder when we give our opinion, which is supported by the sentiments of numerous scientific gentlemen who have visited this vessel, that for architectural beauty and strength she has never been equalled by any other built in Lower Canada. She is to be called the Glasgow. The other is the steam-boat for the Railroad Company, which, from her great length and peculiar model, is the wonder of the thousands who visit her. The length of her deck is 175 feet, the breadth of beam 22 feet, depth of hold at midships 11 feet, which decreases to 6| feet at the ends. The engine, which, with the boilers, will be under deck, is 75 horse power, but is capable of being worked up to 100. The model of this boat differs materially from those hitherto built on the St. Lawrence. Extra length of keel has been found to have the same effect in reducing the draught of water, as breadth of beam and flatness of bottom, with this great advantage, that a long narrow boat, like that of the Railroad Company's, drawing an equal quantity of water with a short flat bot- tomed boat, will run much faster. When this boat has her engine on board, and ready for running, she will draw about three feet of water. Beside the above, there are three barges on the stocks, almost ready for launching. Two are for the Ottawa and Rideau Forwarding Com- pany, and the other for Messrs. James Millar & Co. The whole built by Mr. Merritt." Every information is given to emigrants, both at Que- bec and Montreal, where they may obtain immediate UPPER CANADA. 135 ertiployineiit. Numbers will be required in the Eastern townships; but it they desire to proceed to the Upper Province, there will be lull occupation next year, (1837,) for any number who may wish to come. The improve- ments on the St. Lawrence — on the Ottawa — of the Gana- noque and VViltsic creek — on the Trent, and the internal navigation of ihe Newcastle District — on Windsor Bay, township of Whitby, for the construction of the harbour — for the cutting down of the Rouge hill — for the opening of the road from the back townships, to that of Picker- ing — for the Desjardins Canal, Dundas — at Port Dover Harbour — for the improvement of the Otter Creek — be- sides the probability of the Rail Roads proceeding with from Hamilton to London — from Bertie to Sandwich — from Toronto to Lake E^uron. The Grand river Navi- gation Company at Brantford —and the Welland Canal Company also require labourers. Information may be obtained at Bytown, Prescott, Brockville, Kingston, Belle- ville, Trent, Bath, Bay of Quinte, Hallowell, Prince Ed- ward District, Cobourg, Port Hope, Peterboro', Toronto, St. Catharines, Niagara, Port Credit, Oakville, Hamilton, Dundas, Bran ford, Guelph, London, and St. Thomas. There are steam communications by the Rideau Canal and Lake Ontario to Toronto and Hamilton. From Toronto to Niagara, Port Credit, Oakville, Wellington Square and Hamilton — from Niagara and Queenston stages to Chip- pawa — steam-boats from Chippawa to Sandwich and Chatham — from Sandwich to Goderich on Lake Huron. Steam-boats go across and around lake Simcoe — from Sully on the Rice Lake, to Peterboro,' on the Otanabee river, and the Rice Lake is navigable through the Trent to Seymour. There are numerous stages established in different parts of the Province, from Cornwall to Kingston, wd from thence to Toronto, through Cobourg and Port n 136 UPPER CANADA. Hope by theDundas Road, running parallel wiih Lake Ontario : from Toronto to lake Simcoe : from Toronto to Hamilton. From Niagara through St. Catharines, Beamsville, Grimsby, and Stoney Creek to Hamilton. From Hamilton to London, St. Thomas, and Sandwich, by Ancaster, Brantford, Burford, and Oxford. From Dundas to Gait and Guelph. From Dundas to St. George, Dumfries and Paris. From Paris to Beechville and Woodstock. From Hamilton to Caledonia, Seneca, and York, on the Grand River. During the summer months extra stages run to Hamilton for the convenience of steam-boat pa^engers to and from Toronto and Niagara. W';li. -.^ TfiR XIII tjpp%?r Canada is divided into Twelve Districts — v\i( fhu Eastern, Bathurst, Ottawa, Jolinston, PHnce t^dwardf Midljind, Newcastle, Gord, Niagaraj Home, London, and Western. These iDistricts are again divided into Coun- ties, for the better aiid more effectual represeiitaiioh ot the peoples and the registration of property^ and th^sd Counties into Townships. The CoUnliies are-^CoriiWall* t^rescott, Russell^ Gliengarryj Stormoiit, Dundas^ Lanark^ CarletoOj Grenvillci Fl'ontenac, Lennox and Acldingtbtf$ Leeds, Hastings, Northumberland, Durham* 4 ridings of York, Siracoe, Halton, Wentvvorth, Haldimand, 4 ridings of Lincoln, Oxford, Norfolk, Middlesex^ Kenti £ssexi and Huron. The whole of Upper Canada abounds in lakes, itiany of them varying from 200 acres in size, down to one or two, frequently in beautiful situations, often abounding ill fish, and generally finely vvooded round^their shores, but the principal Ones are as follows : Barnes, Length. Breadth. Circumfetence. Av. de Superirtr, 541 miles. 140 miles. 1,225 mites. 1,000 Huron, 250 19d LlOO 860 iVIichiffani 260 90. i,OO0 780 Jbirie, , 280 63 700 250 Ontario, isO 80 500 500 Simcoe, 40 ad 12d 123 St. Claiti 84 3i) lod 20 Caeorge, d5 00 m 00 Rice Lak^, 24 2to5 58 00 Thd foUpwitig is the elevation efbbvte the Sea, of the severstf Lttktis. enumerated — ascertained by the late survey of tlie Itiland ivater:iB of the Newcasilelindliome Districts,— Lake Ontario 2^4 ft; iliee Lttlcf 9^ afobre lake* d»taHo, or 69d abbve^tha^ Sea } ' B^alsaM lake i^'ilt' :^B'!: 1S8 UPPER CANADA. 4 in. above Rice lake, or 823 (i. 4 in. above the Sea ; Lnkc Simcoe 704 a ; Lake Huron 594 ft; diflerence between the level of lake Sim- coe and lake Huron 110 feet. POPULATION RETURNS OF UPPER CANADA, TAKEN IN 1835. Newcastle, 30,245— Bathurst, 22,693— Eastern, 29,119— Ottawa, 7044— Johnstown, 28,504— Prince Edward, 12,320— Midland, 34,365 —London, 41,130— Gore, 40,156— Western, 14,496— Home, 47.54.\ exclusive of Toronto — Toronto, 9,756— Niagara, 28,735. Tola', 346,165. The returns for 1836, as far tp I hove seen them, exhibit a very great increase of population, but not being able to obtain an entire set, I pre- ferred ^^iviag the returns for 1835. This increase added to the large emigration this year, will certainly give Upper Canada a population of •more than 400,000. The Eastern District comprises the Counties of Duu- das, Glengarry, and Stormont. EASTERN DISTRICT. COUNTY OP DUNDAS. Townihipi. Cultivated acret. Uncultivated acra>. Assesiment. Population. Mountain, 2,079 14,000 £8,292 872 Williamsburg, 6,315 29,590 27,621 2,128 Matilda, 5,181 25,317 18,932 2,187 Winchester, 509 6,090 3,034 351 COUNTY OF GLENGARRY. Lochiel, 6,306 43,351 31,941 2,434 La^ncaster, 7,431 40,238 24,862 2,652 Kenyon, 3,412 43,956 18,643 1,990 Charlottenburgh, 16,425 58,940 58,927 4,988 COUNTY OF STORMONT. Osnabruck, 9,735 33,420 37,958 4,771 Finch, 935 9,365 4,862 625 Brborough"!} 12,318 50,809 68,070 4,510 Town of Cornwall, - .... j ^741 Horses, 5,148— FouT year old Oxen, 1,231— Milch Cows, 9,741— Horned Cattle, from one to four years old, 2,147. The County of Glengarry, which now contains upwards of 12,000 inhabitants, is principally settled by the Scotch, and their descendants. The venerable Bishop McDoncli larought dver a large number of Highlanders in 1804, UPPER CANADA. 139 who were located in this county. In the township of Lancaster, he commenced the erection of St. Raphael's Church, the largest in Upper Canada ; it is still unfinish- ed, but had he been enabled to have completed it, ac- cording; to its original design, it w ould have proved an ornament to the country. It is now a fine spacious build- ing. He has also a seminary for Ecclesiastics here. There are fine large well cultivated farms in the township of Charlottenburgh ; land good, and well watered. These two townships are bounded by the river St, Lawrence in front and the townships of Kenyon and Lochiel in the rear. In these latter townships, particularly Lochiel, there are several fine productive farms. They are all, save Kenyon, well supplied with mills. Both cleared farms, and wild land are reasonable. Its contiguity to market, and the newly settling townships in the Lower Province, will gjreatly enhance the value of property ia this neighbourhood. '^ * Williamstown, in the County of Glengarry, is situated on the river Raisin, containing churches, schools, manu- factories, taverns, and many good houses. Col. Fraser, of Fraseifield, has a fine farm, well cultivated, with a handsome residence on it. There is a village in Locbiel very prettily situated, called Alexandria, with churches, schools, and a large population. There are 1200 free- holders in the County of Glengarry. The County of Dundas has but little to recommend it, except its water ; in the township of Matilda there is some fine land, and a mountain range running through it. The township of Williamsburgh is well settled and delightfully situated, fronting the St. Lawrence : it is abundantly watered by creeks, and has a rising village called Mariatown, in which there is a good tavern. The l^nd is of superior quality. Mr. Hrouso and C'nptaln McDonell possess large well cultivated fanus, wiih good residences on them. The township of Mountain has iho Nation river running through it, and a fine stream it is ; |he Jand is of excellent quality about it, 'I'he County of Stormont has 12,010 inhabitants, main- ly Scotch and their descendants. It is abundantly wa- tered, particularly the townships of Osnabruck, Cornwall and Finch, and contains many mills. Between this and Glengarry the St. Regis Indian territory runs. 'J he town of Cornwall has the jail., and court-house of the District, contains several stores, churches, taverns, upwards of a thousand inhabitants, and sends a meinber to the Pro- vincja) Parliatnent. There is a large Catholic Church in St. Andrews, The i^rms are large, and generally of good quality. This District sends seven members to the House of Assembly. The road fipm Cornwall to the Ottawa District, passes through the township of Roxbo- rough, which is extensively settled, contains fine land, and is watered by the north branch of the river Aux Rai- sins, and several creeks. The township of Osnabruck contains some extensive and well cleared farms, the land oC excellent quality ; it has the advantage of the St. Law- rene/p in front, the river Aux Raisins, and several creeks^ which supply various mills. The villages of Santa Crua^, JVIoulinetie, and Lancaster, are all increasing in size, popu-. I^^ion, and in the nutnber s^nd character of the buiidinga, ^.:.;t ^ - •■„■•$- < - ; i I . > . • » i'i.J'- ' Tlie and hf into t^ bound its nai 'fownnhi WestH Kast Hi liongue Cnledoi Alfred, Flantag Claren Ouinbe Jlussel Cambr Glouce Osgooc Hors year ol Th tains the li estab ment Whi. and each sand Can cont goo low upp UPPER CANADA. 141 The (3ttawa District, in the rear of the Eastern District, and having its north front on the river Ottawa, is divided into two Counties, viz. Presscott, and Russell ; it is bounded by the majestic river from whence it derives its name, the Ottawa* OTTAWA DISTRICT. COUNTY OF paESCOTT. 'fowniihipt. Cul'.l vated acrei. Unoullivatcd acres. Assessment, Population. West Hawkesbury 4,806 16,633 £19,403 1,801 East Hawkesbury 2,020 14,003 10,884 853 Loiigiieil, 3,358 J2,004 12,435 1,090 Caledonia, 993 6,188 41.077 374 Alfred, 297 4,271 1,698 163 Plantaganet, 1,342 11,517 . 6,477 737 COUNTY OF RUSSELL. • Clarence, 363 5,781 1,950 178 Cumberland, 895 6,995 2,578 208 Eussell, 74 2,226 1,038 36 Cambridge, Gloucester, 1,859 17,238 9.017 1,091 Osgood e, 652 13,442 4,588 523 Horses, 740— Milch Cow«, 2,095— Four year old Oxen, 831— Two year old Horned Cattle, 599. The village of L'Original has two churches, and con- tains many inhabitants, but the country depends more on the lumber trade than its agriculture. A Fair has been established in the village with a view to its encouragew ment. But the place of most consequence in this District it BYTOWN, ' • Which is divided into two parts, is named after 'Col. By, and called the upper and lower town, a mile distant from each other, containing both together more than two thou* sand inhabitants ; in the lower town they are chiefly Canadians. The streets are laid out in straight lines, and contain some excellent houses, many stores, and some good taverns. There is a large Catholic church in the lower town, which is most numerously attended. In the upper town there is a Small English Church, a larger '■fS!jfe>^ 142 uprnu canaha. Scotch Prcsbvterian one, and a diminutive Methodise tabernacle. The Ridcau Canal locks, lie between ilic two towns, to which persons pass and repass over a large, lofty, and handsome stone bridge, called of the Sappers and Miners. There is a fine and extensive grist-mill be- longing to Mr. McKay, the excellent member for Russell, a1t>ont a mile below the lower town, in a small, but in- creasing village, called New Edinburgh, where the junc- tion of the Rideau and Ottawa rivers take place. The scenery, particularly about the upper town, is the most lofty and sublime in Canada. The falls of the Chaudiere, somewhat better than a mile above it, are awfully grand. These falls are about one hundred and twenty-five miles due west from Montreal. The interruption is six miles in length, and the river then extends into a spacious and deep lake, the head of which is about thirty miles from the Chaudiere falls, and about two miles further to the north. At this spot occurs, perhaps, one of the most sin- gular, grand, and beautiful spectacles in nature. The Utta-wa, here two miles and a half in breadth, is precipi- tated in fifteen distinct cataracts over a straight line of perpendicular crags, covered in the intervals with ever- green cedar and pine, and instantly sinks to rest in the still lake below. After this interruption, the river again extends into a beautiful lake, changes its direction, and flows from the north west. Opposite to Bytown, is Hull, in Lower Canada, the Utta-wa being here the boundary between the two Provinces. The Rideau canal connects the Utta-wa with lake Ontario at Kingston, by avoiding the Chaudiere falls. The whole extent of this fine canal, including the rivers and lakes through which it passes, is about 160 miles in length ; it has 47 locks, 147 feet by 33 wide ; the total rise is 437 feet ; the highest reservoir is the Rideau lake, which is 24 miles in length. . The «t» UPPEn CANADA. 143 canal commences in ihe river Ottawa, in a small bay, 130 miles from Montreal, and 150 from Kingston-— is entered from this bay by eight locks, passes through a ravine, extends over a large swamp, secured by a dam ; crosses another ravine by means of an aque- duct, and joins the Rideau river, six miles from the com- mencement of the canal. (lore there is a large dam, which overcomes seven miles of rapids, converting them into a silent stream. The canal is united to the river by means of a lock. By the assistance of locks, dams, and embankments, it is carried to the river Cataraque, and ultimately terminates in that river, by Kingston. The whole of the 47 locks arc of admirable construction, ex- hibiting the appearance of beauty, solidity, and strength. It is altogether a splendid work, worthy of the government (hat perfected it, and of the two majestic rivers that are connected together by it. • The two Provinces are united by a bridge built over La Grande Chaudiere, it is called the Union bridge, a splen- did specimen of architecture ; the abutments of the bridge rest on the rocks, which interrupt the current of the river, and some idea may be formed of the bridge, the centre arch forming an expansion of 270 feet. During the spring of this year the main arch of this beautiful bridge gave v^'ay, it is about to be repaired. This splendid national undertaking, the Rideau canal, is now traversed by steam- boats, making a quick and easy communication for emi- grants. The principal part of the settlers in Cumberland, Clarence, and Gloucester, are located along the banks of the Ottawa river. An immense quantity of business is transacted at By town, which, from its locality cannot but flourish. This District sends three members to the House of Assembly. . . ^ Amongst the many suggestions for settling the immense w 144 UPPER l'ANAt)A* tract of beuutiriil country, comprised wiiliiii ilir IIomk^, Newcnsile, and iVJidlnnd Districts, has been the improve- ment of the navigation of the majestic river, flie Ottawa ; »o as to connect its splendid water with hike Huron, at the upper end of Georgian bay, by the rVencli river, and through lake Nipissing. Although a stupendous under- taking, when it is considered what an imntense. territory would be rescued from a wilderness — what mines ot* wealth would be unfolded — what an extension of naviga- tion and conmierce would be the result — and above all the certainty of carrying the produce of this mighty territory, and the trade of Michigan, to Montreal: as a lover of Bri- tish interests I should glory iti its accomplishment. Mr* Sheriff of Bytown — not Mr. Sheriff of Mungospark, Illi- nois — has been most indefatigable in his attempts to bring this plan into notice. 1 have been informed by a friend who has just returned from Bytown, that there is more lumbering doing on the Ottawa river this year than in any previous season. There is a general expectation that prices will be good next year, and eyery exertion is making to take advantage of the first arrivals in spring. As an illustration of theex^ tent to which lumbering is carried on the Ottawa, I may mention that several trains were laden with oats at By- town to proceed three hundred miles up the river, to sup- ply the horses which are employed in the woods at that distance. •• , . . . Oi fuuU V ' If, J j^^' The following it extracted from the 6ytown Gazett*. THE TIMBER TRADE. In our last week's paper we stated our belief that much of the timber/ which had been made during the present season, would not reach tfie! Qruebec markcft. Since that time, in converging with many friends vhtf are well versed on the subject, we find the probable quantity which will be detained, will be nor less than 60,000 pieces, chiefly from the following rivers ; itit* UPPER CANADA. In tlic MiHlawaskOf above ♦• Ottawa. Oii'thp ii\'H\u\ (Calumet, burnt and etuck» Im iIiu Tort Coloiiffu river» Ud li >iwe\au, Piluwnwn, *• Mutfawa, •» t t( e to Cornw^U extending from north to south, on which a stag6 runs. There are some good mills, distilleries, manufacioriesr taverws and stores. The township of Gl^ucestef, in the County of Russell, is also a Very ftiid tovWfship, compii^g some land of the best quality, pos- 19 :^,:r 146 UPPER Canada. sessing also the great advantages of being situated on the Ottawa, and the Kideau. It is admirably watered by a number of fine streams, supplying many mitls ; the na\'<- gation renders it a most desirable location, besides the land communication which it possesses whh the Johnstown and Bathurst Districts. It is well worthy both the atten- tion of settlers and capitalists. The lumberers pass a long distance into the country above the Lake of Chats. The gallant Highlander, Mc- Nab, of McNab, resides on the shores of this lake, at a residence called Kinnel Lodge, a spot greatly resembling in its bold, so^mbre, and majestic aspect, the wildest and most romantic scenery in his native land. This distin- guished cbieftan has received permission to raise a militia corps of 800 Highlanders, a class of British subjects always distinguished for their devoted and chivalrous attachment to the laws, and institutions of their noble progenitors, and who would prove a rampart of living bodies in de- fence of British supremacy whenever and wheresoever assailed. THE DISTRICT OF JOHNSTOWN, Is divided into the two Counties of Grenville and Leeds,, and these again subdivided into eighteen Townships, v . Townsbipt. Edwardsburgh, Augusta, Wolford, Montague, Marlborough, South Gower, r North Gower, Oxford, COUNTV OP ORKNVILLE. ; - GuUivattd acr«f. Uncultivated acres. Population. 5,373 26,326 2,004 ' 11,212 ^ 37,560 4,155 > 3,468 11,470 ^ 1,136 2,922 16,960 1;021 1,400 : 9,383 514 3,014 . . 7.563 641 881 6,878 *• '078 ' 4,323 20^13$$.^ IfiSl UPPER CANADA. 147 COUNTY OF LEKOS. EliznbethtowB, 15,800 48,825 5,184 Yonjje, 10,325 34,297 3,239 Front of Leeds &Lansdown, 3,421 19,978 1,359 Rear of Lecds&Laiisdowii, 2,640 12,948 953 North Crosby, 391 3,225 354 South Crosby, 2,319 11,357 622 )3urges9, 1.656 11,029 412 Bastard, 5,857 15,652 1,912 Eltnsley, 3,276 20,455 1.262 Kitley. 4,502 17,193 1,567 Total Assessment of Johnstown District, £198,991 10 0. Horses, 3,924— Four year old Oxen, 3,510— Milch Cows, 9,649— Horned Cattle, from two to lour year old, 3,179. BROCKVILLE Is the District town> and has long been admired for the beauty of its situation, the superiority of its buildings, the fertility of the surrounding country, and its general salu- brity. It stands on a shelving bank, with a pretty slope, frotn half a mile in depth to the edge of the river. It has a southern aspect, and is delightfully shaded by groves of majestic trees. It contains about 1,200 inhabitants ; there are three churches. Catholic, Episcopal, and Presbyterian^ and one Methodist Meeting-house. There is a very su- perior District School, besides a Charity School, under the immediate survoillance of an Episcopal Clergyman, and principally supported by members of that denomina- tion. The court-house and jail are handsome stone buildings, and the churches and many of the houses being built with stone, and covered with tin, imparts a very in- teresting appearance to the place. The farms in this vi- cinity are large, the soil fertile, and well cleared, with stone-wall fences, and often, good stone houses on them. The wharves at Brockville are very substantia) and spa- cious. [i?"'**,'- i rtiESCOTT Is at the head of the rapids uf the St. Lawrence, immediately opposite to Ogdenshurgh; the St. Lawmiro is here very broad. There are nearly four hundrrii dwelling houses, many of theu» large, handsome, an(| well-built stone houses, and several excellent stone stores. There are four places of worship. 'i he catholic chuicli is a stone building, but heavy : the English and ScotclA churches, and the Methodist meeting-house, are frame c-r rections. There is a custom house, and a very elegant stone building, erected by the catholic clergyman, the Rev. J. VV. Champion, and denominated the Grenville College, 84 feet in length, with two wings, one at either end 40 feet each in length, extending in a fine garden geometrically arranged, and lying between them and a splendid stone mansion he has erected for his own resi- dence. 1 here is also a large foundry, a distillery, and a very extensive and substantially built brewery, a short distance from the town, — a pottery and many shops be- longing to mechanics. 'I here are seven good taverns and some few groceries. There is a windmill near Prescott, but no water-mills. There is an hospital for emigrants, ^nd extensive sheds for their reception They are re- ceived with kindness and with open arms in Upper Cana-t da, whilst they are viewed by a brutally ignorant faction in Lower Canada, as a qurse. The former specimens clearly evince the insensafe and deadly malevolence of the French leaders to met) of British origin. The found- ry at Prescott has turned out steam engines equal in workmanship to any on the lakes. There is also an es- tablishnient for making coaches, sleighs, harness, &c. Ike. which supplies the country far and near. The pottery fAio supplies the whole country between Glengarry and fi^UTille, Xberei9 a Branchof the Cpmmercial BanH rPPER CANADA, 149 iinil an agcntof the Montreal Bank in Frcscott, but a yuooessCul application has been made to the Provincial Parliament for the establishmenf of a bank in the town with a capital of £100,000. There are three common schools, well conducted, and a female seminary. When the Urenville College comes into active operation it will afford them a finished education. In connection with this college or establishment, there will be a library for general circulation, which will be bought at the public expense, the proprietor supplying a number of miscella- Vieous works : the proceeds of the library will be appro- priated to the clothing of poor childien who will be in- structed gratuitously in the College. There is a weekly newspaper and a monthly literary publication. The town is incorporated but retm*ns no Member to Parlia^ ment. A board of police, elected by the inhabitants, is authorized by an act of the Provincial Legislature. Pres- cott, being situated on the margin of the St. Lawrence, and at the foot of the schooner navigation, becomes the regular depot of all merchandize, and the point ofcm^ barkation for every traveller from Quebec and Montreal to the w est. It is admitted to be extremely salubrious, possessing a most beautiful and fertile back country, with excellent tracts of fine timber lands in the immediate vi-. cidity for ship building and other purposes. An enter- prising merchant at Prescott has already a ship-yard in full operation. The first steam-boat which navigated thia river was launched here : and that splendid steam-boat, the Great Britain, the monarch of the lakes, was con- structed here, A rail road from Lake Charaplain to Og- denshurgh, connected with the Boston rail road, is about to go into operation, which, when completed, in addition to the above mentioned local advantages of Prescott, will rentier it in e^ commercial point of view, inferior to UQ !'||"«*!;'? 150 UPPER Canada. town in yjiper Canada. The election for the county lakes place in this town. **There was launched this afternoon from the ship-yard of Messrs: Hooker, Hendefson & Co. a large and splendif' centreboard scho >ner of 130 tons burthen, intended for the carrying trade of lakes'Ontario and Erie. This vessel is so constructed as to warrant the belief thnt she will be able to carry 800 barrels of pork through the Welland canal without unloading. She is built and rigged in the most substantial manner, and is superior to any other schooner on these waters. She is an ornannent to the lake, and reflects much cred.t on the owners, and the builder, Mr. Sheay. She is named in honour ot'our staunch Constitutional Goveraor, Sfr F. B. Head. The name gave great «atisfaction to the people here, and was received by the most enthusi- asttc cheering by the multitude assembled to witness the launch, which was the best we ever saw. She was fully rigged and sails bent while on the stocks, and looked beautiful as she glided gracefully into her native element. '^ GANNANOQUE Is a small village, on the Gannanoque River, the hydrau- lic power at this place is probably the best in the Province, and if ever manufactures should be carried to much ex- lent, this village will be the nucleus for a large manufac- turing town. There are already in active operation, a spacious Hour mill, a saw mill, a pail manufactory, a cloth manufactory, a foundry, a fulling mill, carding machine, ^e. "The Gannanoque Creek, rushes headlong over the precipice, into the St. Lawrence, and has been viewed with stupid curiosity by the savages for the last thousand years. But the genius of civilization and enterprise ap- proaches, and by the touch of her magic wand, the whole scene is inspired with a new and busier vitality : and a cluster of factories and mills give employment, sustenance and ultimately affluence to thousands. The value here is not in the waterfall, but in the genius which turned it to account : the capital and enterprise which created thl9 Bcene of prosperity and industry, which now maintains it tfPElt CANADA. 151 in active operation." There are other small villages in the Distriet- Beverly, Portland, Maitland — all flourishing. Also, Merrickville, where three beautiful locks of the Ri- deaucanal are built : they are of a hewn stone, most se- cui ely constructed, of large dimensions, and present a grand an imposing appearance. 'J he land in this District is throughout uncommonly good, the Farmers are doing well, and of Iat€ years their debts are much diminished. The winters are particularly favorable Tor wheat, as the heavy snows generally fall in the last of November, and leave the ground at the latter end of March. The roads arc, of course, exceedingly fine in the winter, in conse- quence of the excellence and duration of sleighing, and very good in the summer for a new country. A few emi- grants settle in this vicinity yearly, but the great bulk go to the westward, in the new townships in those portions of the Province. In consequence of this, land, and*im- proved farms in particular, are cheaper than in the upper part of the Province. At Yonge mills there is a flouring mill on a grand and extensive scale, the property of the Hon. C. Jones, who manufactured last year upwards of 20,000 barrels of flour. There are also many other de- scriptions of mills and buildings. There are several large lakes in the back townships of this District ; and in Laus- down there are iron works. This District sends five members to the House of Assembly. Black Lead and a soft Soap-stone, with a smooth oily surface, is found about the Gunanoque lake. • jf 152 iJi'fttn CANADAi i'- :,' ^*« •, ^ • rHE BATHURST DISTRICT, ts divided into the two Coumies of i^aiiark and C arlctnrti '<^, COUNT V ' OF Lanark. Townships. ' Unculiivnted acref. Cutiivati'd acreti ABfPinsmrMt. Popiilftiion. Orummond, 6,810 " >32,37I £T4',mi 2*823 Bathurst, 6,572 33,756 21,418 2,251 Beckwith, 6,634 31,487 19,010 2,125 North Sherbrooke* 897 5,681 2.748 3G0 South Sherbrooke , 321 4.311 1,399 ITiji Lanark, 6,534 30,277 18,440 1 .850 Dalhousie, 4.576 21,295 1 1 .824 1.108 Ram say t 5,469 35,5()3 20,':j5 2,188 Darling* 48:3 3,450 I.5.*i6 197 Horton* 78i 8,120 3.460 3^i8 • ' COUNTY OF CARLETON. (iO III bourne* 5,946 82,064 19,560 2,330 Huntly* 3,684 25,460 11,091 l,i9d Maieh^ 1,953 15,120 7,592 538 I'ackenhatn. 1,947 9,640 6.656 682 Fitzro3> 1,194 34,2lS0 ^,813 762 Torbolton, 496 5,940 2,295 190 McNab, 856 10.650 4,659 613 i^epean* 4*145 23,990 27,748 ?;!86 Horses, 1,541 — ■Four year old Oxen, 3,332— -Milch Cows, 6.541— Two year old Horned Cattle 3,586. , This flourishing and beautiful District, bounded by the Ottawa, and by the Rideau with lake Ontario, abounds in villages, streams, new settlements, lakes, — is colonized by Highland and Lowland Scotchmen, and exhibits the character of a fine and thriving District. The land though marshy, in many parts, is extremely rich, consisting of clay and yellow loam — the timber of the forest is large, ]pfty, and of every variety— the rivers Rideau and Missis- 8ipi, Clyde, and Tay, falling into the Ottawa, noble rivers turning machinery, run through most of the townships — - and a reference to the table will show the value and extent of cultivation in the District. RICHMOND Is about twenty miles from Perth, it is situated on the Vork river, the country between it and Perth is well set- tled, although low and swampy, it forms the Rideau UPPER CANADA. Ydi fecttieirtent, and owes its prospenty in a great measui'^td the extent of the lumber trade carried on atbng the Otta- wa river. PERTH Is not only beautif\illy situated, but is in a very ffoiirish- ing condition. It is in the centre of a thriving, welt cultivated country, aLid Iiokiing direct communication with two inland rivers. It is built on a small branch o^ the llideau, called the Tay^ and lies nearly equidistant between the St. LavVrence on the south, and the UitaWa behind, enabling it to carry on an extensive trade with Kingston on the one, and Bytown on the other. The farms around it, are extensive, well bleared, very fertildj and have capital buildings on them. In the town ot Perth there are some of the best built builditigs in the country. Nearly in the centre of the town, there is ^ lofty hill, on which the (;durt-house, Jail, sind two church- es have been Erected. The streets are laid out uniform- ly, and are between 60 and 70 feet in breadth. The po- pulation exceeds 800 ; there are good mills, taverns, and stores at Perth, Property has greatly advanced in valu^ in this neighbourhood, but there are still lands, both wild and cultivated^ to be met with at moderate prices. This District sends four members to the House df Assembly. -^^ From this District principally, and from the Ottawa, tbd McNab w ill raise his brave and hardy band of Highland- ers for a militia. :*»■••*,'' 20 m 154 tl»P£R CAtAOA. ■ ' THE MIDLAND DISTRICT Is divided into three Counties, Froiuenar, Lenox antl Addington, and Hastings. COUNTY or FRONTENAC. Cultivsted acres. Uncoliivuiod acres. Asseeemonf. Townihipf. .^ .^^ Kingston, 12.145 32,740 ^*3,I92 Pittsburgh, 4,515 17,162 17,230 Loughborough, 5,816 14,006 lo,013 Portland, 2,559 10,'339 7,782 Wolfe Island, 1,909 7,315 5,771 Town of Kingston, 698 Town Lots, - , 84^6! v> . ,,.., I . COUNTY OF LENOX AND ADDINGTON. Popihhlifot*. 3.61J^ r,38;> 1,131 670 53t> 4,281 Ernest Town, 20,897^ Fredericksburgh, 13,617 Adolphustown, 6,043 Richmond, 5,998 Cannden, 8,583 Sheffield, 587 Annherst Island, 2,575 Sidney, COl 14,324 Thurlow, 10,171 Rawdon, . 1,575 Marmora, 11,006 Huntingdon, . ,. 1,222 Hungerford, 736 Madoc, 932 Tyendinaga, 3,227 36,045 ' 22,199 5,250 22.129 30,305 5,(J30 8,225 COUNTY OF HASTINGS. 62,7t)6 38,573 14,097 22,551 27,058 2,814 7,001 3,87 2,594 661 1,642 2,25-^ 309 738 30,941 41,341 no return. 27,000 57,738 3,938 6,994 6,373 625 7,664 4,059 273 8,695 4,2^16 437 10,125 4,016 420 7,887 3,745 no return. 17,224 13,221 1,443 Horses, 5,628 — Oxen of four year old and upwards, 3;368— Milcb Cows, 11,899— Horned Cattle from two to four year old, 3,678. ..,.. .. ., KINGSTON Is finely situated at the eastern end, and on the north bank of Lake Ontario, at its junction with the St. Law- rence. It has a population of nearly 6,000 persons. It is celebratedij having bf^en, during the war, the naval depot. The peninsula formed by Point Frederick, ex- tending half a mile into the lake, and being opposite iOp and distant from the town, about three quarters of a mile, forms a deep inlet, and secure harbour, called Navy Bay» his a place of great strength also as a military position. It contains several fine churches, and many excellent stone buildings; the streets are paved, and there are sev- LPPER CANADA. 15^ eral large wharves. A marine rail-way has been form- ed, and a great deal of business is carried on in the dock yard. The barracks are spacious; along, but handsome, wooden bridge is thrown over the river, connecting Kings- ton with forts Henry and Frederick and the village of Barriefield, which is pleasantly situated. Fort Henry, sit- uated on the extremity of the ridge forming Point Henry, is a stupendous fortification of great strength: it covers an area of one acre; its walls and outworks are extremely massive. The fort and ditches are finished in an admira- ble mannei*, but it will occupy much time before the gla- cis is levelled, and the outworks are completed. The bulwarks and walls exhibit a formidable appearance. — This gigantic work is being executed at the expense of the mother country. The hospital at Kingston is a beau- tiful stone building, and is conducted in the most satis- factory manner. There are several excellent societies in Kingston, humane and literary; there is also a library and reading room. The Provincial Penitentiary is about a mile and a half from Kingston : it is a strong, large, stone building: its interior construction is admirable, and the arrangements well calculated to effect the desirable purpose for which it was erected. 1 rode with Bishop JVlacdonell to Kingston Mills, a- distance of seven miles from the town: the ride is pretty^ and sequestered: they are at the entrance of the Rideaa Canal. The locks here are splendid, and the scenery beautiful. 'J he lovely valley is enclosed by Jp>fty cliffs of noble granite, finely wooded with varieties of pine, fir, elm and birch trees. The old mills erected by the Bri- tish Government for the use of the U. E. Loyalists, are sull sta'nding, and form, together with the splendid mason- ry of the Rideau Canal, convincing proofs of its earnest solicitude to do ample justice to its Caii^an subjects. I [■|8"^*^-.' w J56 UPPER CANADA, cannot omit mentioning the very superior accommodation^ to be met with in the British Hotel, kept by IVlr. Mnc- donald, a most attentive and ahiiging landlcxrd. 'Ihcre are several newspapers published in Kingston. On the whole, Kingston is a beautiful town, strongly fortified, — commanding the St. Lawrence, and Lake Ontario, and possessing the advantage of the ilideau Canal. It is ex- tremely dry, and healthy — has a fine back country,whicU tnust attract the attention of enterprising capitalists amt ensure its lasting prosperity. ICILtiAHNEY, WEST LOUGHBOROUGH. This rising tiRmlet or small village, known by the various names of VMcGregor'tt Mills," ^'Murray's Mills," ♦♦Russella," and "Lough- borQUgh Mills,'' has lately becoi^ie the property ot'G. W. Yurk^r, Esq. pf Kingston, and would most probably obtain the freshtitle of Yurker*s. Mills, were it not deemed advisable by the chief inhabitants to name the place themselves, and thus prevent it taking the cognomen of every and each gentleman., who chooses to become its purchaser. Its situa- tion is at the outlet of a lovely lake, reminding the beholder of lake Killarney in Ireland, and the immediate vicinity of aa old Irish settle-. \nent, suggested the name of Killarney, which probably will be the name by which it will ultimately descend to posrerity. That th^ size of the place entitles it to be considered a viHage, th^ ^numeration of the following buildings clearly shows : A stone grist- mill, with two runs, a handsome saw-j^iill, with two saws, a large merch- ant's store and dwelling, the property of Mr. Yarker, the merchant's store of Mr. H. Madden, the dwelling-house, tannery, and leather store pf Mr. B. Waters, the stone dwelling-house and saw-mill of Mr. P. Switzer, t^e ion of Mr. John Switzer, the fulling mill, carding machine and dwelling-house of Mr. H. Grannis, the house and blacksmith's shop of Mr. ^il^aight, the tailor's shop of Mr. Moss, the farm hou- ses o( Messrs. Wood and Blake, bcRides several other erections, the pccupants of which are unknown to us. ThQ want of a post-office has been long and severely felt by the ia- ^abitants, and has contributed to prevent their increasing in popula- tion, so much as the excellent situation of their village would otherwise warrant. This want is as much owing to the supineness of the people, «8 to the negligence^ the Deputy Post Master General, who unless h^ \^ «»||>eciaUy info^iRd of the necessity of the case, cannot be expect- UPPER CANADA. 157 c4 to kimw h. A meeting, liowevcr, we see is now advertised for Sa- turday week, totok« liiia. mutter into considerntion, when no doubt, if the post-office is properly petitioned for, it will be immediately granted. [Since the writing of the above, Mr. Stayner has kindly supplied the wants of the inhabitants, by the estahliHhmont of a post-otlice.] Killarney is sbont sixteen miles from Kingston, due north, and in the middle of the good Inndin Loughborough, although only in the 4th concession. When we say sixteen miles, we mean in winterj for in summpr time tho depth of the mud holes has to be added to the length ofthe way, which will bring it to eighteen milea, the usually estimated distance. BKLLEVILLE. Thesittiof theTown of Belleville is situated between Kingston and Toronto, on the shore of the Bay of Uuinte ; originally claimed by the Missisagua Indians as a landing place, and called by the Saganasheo- can, where they usually received their presents from Government, de- manding a yearly acknowledgement from its settlers for their posses- sions. The late .J W. M^'era afterwards claimed it under a 99 years' lease, said to have been granted to him by that tribe ; hence thp creek or river running through the adjacent lot took the name of Myer'a Creek, described in a grant to one Singleton, **Singlelon's River.'* *Sincethe Town has been laid out, it has assumed the new and more appropriate name of the River Moira. At an inconsiderable expense the river could he made navigable for steam-boats and other crafts to. the bridge, an advantage which should not be lost sight of by the in- habitants, particularly those residing on the banks, south ofthe bridge,, whos? property would become greatly enhanced by wharfs and other shipping conveniences. In the year 1800^ the village was laid out by Samuel Wilniot, Esq. King's Surveyor, under the immediate ordeis. 9nd instri^ctions of Government, appropriating lots for a gaol and court bouse, churches, chapels, and for other public buildings ; granting ta individuals who had made improvements;, the several lots they occu- pied. The main streets are 66 feet wide, called Front, Piimacle, Park and Rear Streets, intersected by cross streets of the same width. Belleville is said to contain about 1800 inhabitants. There is an English and Scotch Church, a Roman CathoJic and Methodist chapel,, also a congregation of Episcopal Methodists, and one of American Presbyterians ; 25 merchant shops, 2 apothecaries and druggist, 12: hucksters and grocery shops, 9 taverns, 3 breweiies, 2 flouring, 4 saw, and 2 fulling and carding mills, 1 pail factory, 7 blacksmith shops, 3 * cabinetmakers, 2 wheelwrights, 3 harness makers,; 3 tanneries^ ftod 1 1 1- 1.58 rprra canaiia. iiiechanici of nlnionl eveiy tJfHcriptiuii. In rruiit direct thore tirr « niimljer of {i|)nctuiirt Ijiick, muMf, aii«i triuiit* l)uildii)g.s, lieini^ tliu iiiumc central |iurt of (lie (own for buHJiu'siH. 'JMie 'J'own liu»* u^ctiiilv l.f« u called East niid \Ve8t IJelleville; Knpaiaied l»y tiie livei' Mtiira — llie latter has been laid out by the present owners, and the NireciHaiid lints defined. The one called Coleman street, weet of the river, Ih 60 tet-t M'ide from the lUiy Shore, to the new niillM, where it intrrf^ecto (he roud leading to the 2d conceHsion of Sidney, on which Hticet there arc erect- ed a hundsomu brick and other slone and frunie huildingii; a trip hum- mer forge, and axe manufactory, carri-jd on l>y Mr. I'rocier, celebrated for making the best axes in the Province. A saw-mill in full 0])eru- lion, and a flouring mill with 4 run of stone now erecting, and nnniher for G run now in contemplation of being built next summer, by our en- terprising townsman Mr. Flint. A cabinet maker, blacksmith shop and 2 taverns, together wiih a variety of lots unsnld, some of which are calculated for hydraulic purposes, and on which there are abundance of materials for stone build ing.s. The same street leads to the exlen- eive wharves and storehouses belonging to Mr. Billa Flint, which bid fair to rival those on the east side of the river from their having an ex- tensive sweep of navigable water for vessels of considerable burden. There are few towns in the Province with such valuable mill privileges that oHIer to the capitalist an unbounded field of enterprise. The vast and extensive tracts of the best quality of land in the rear townships, abounding both in rich iron and other mineral ores (the fonne r in suHi- cient quantity to supply the continent of America with the best quality of Iron) where the Cholera, the scourge of the huni'in race, has never made its appearance is the best evidence of its salubrity, and must in- sure to the town of Belleville permanent and solid advantages as a com- mercial and manufacturing town. The liberal terms on which the lots in West Belleville are ofi'ered, place it within the power ofalldis- eriptions of persons of industrious habits to insure to themselves pro- perties that will in a few years increase in value beyond th<»ir most san- guine expectations, of whiclt several have already by their purchases, both in I'ast and West Belleville, realized. It would be both superfluous and unnecessary to speak of Belleville as being the best adupted and eligible situation for the contemplated New District Town, long ago acknowledged by an appropriation of lots by Government for a gaol and court-house. Without disparage- ment to the River Treni, we can boldly say, no other place within fifty miles of the county, can offer the like conveniences and comforts for the officers and attendants of court. The contemplated opening of oa-> VVVy.n CANADA. 159 ncfl'ion bctwrrn the I'iiy mimI liiikc Oiiimio — coiiiiccling (lie wattrf nf ilie 'i'reiit with the upper Lukeii, iiitiy iu: looked upon \\n hii event tlii'.t i'pv dily will lukc phicc, mid insure to Uclloville an importance e- quiii to niiy other part ofihc Province, ntul a innrUct where the farmer H 8ur« to ohiain iho liii^hrs^t cash price for hi!^ produce; with a circula- ting,' irjediuin e(pirtl to the wums ofthu Province, hy an extcnuive nnd iiltcrii) hnnking sysrein, wilt induce entcrprioingtnen tu estahlish wool- «^ti and (lUior inanufHctureR; a subject ofparuniou.it importance to the luture O'lvancenicnt of the Province. • . BATH. Tilt: villngc of I5aili is finely situated, and continues in- neasing with groat rapidity; it has many houses, stores, taverns, and carries on an excellent trade. COLD CREEK. Among these villages (he flourishing hamlet at the mouth of Cold Creek, is deserving, both from its size and situation, of being better known than it appears to be at present. About eight mile4 above the >nouth of the Trent, on its west bank, a large stream with a fall of se- veral feet ut its mouth, empties itself into the Trent in almost the only part of that river free from rapids, until the Highlands are passed. Mr. >Scott, one of the old settlers of the country, and a proprietor of tho adjoining land, here erected a grist and saw mill some years ago, but beyond these erections and his own dwelling house, nothing further was done, until within these two years, when Mr. W. H. Uowen, a magistrate and merchant of Richmond, removed his family and his es-. tahlishment to the Creek, with the intention of settling the place. — Since his arrival, an important alteration has taken place. Houses have been put up as it were by magic; mechanics of all kinds have es- tablished themselves; two taverns have been opened, and trade of all kinds seems to be far more brisk than in many other places three times its size. A bridge has been here thrown across the Trent,which although unfinished at the time of our visit, will probably be completed early in the spring. On the opposite side of the river, there has ex- isted for many years a cluster of houses, that in course of time might have grown into a village, but now can onlv aspire to be a suburb of its neighbour. A road to the mouth of the Trent is made on both sides, but that on the west bank is the best and most frequented. This village is not named. Most persons call it Scott's Mills, from its original proprietor; others again, Cold Creek, from the name of the Cieek; and a few are willing to name it Waterford, from the exist- 160 t/PPER CANADA. lince of a safe and convenient tbrd) in the immediate vicinity. W% take the liberty of sugg^csting to ihe inhabitants the propriety of calling a meeting to name the village, and at the same time they might draw the attention of the Provincial Post-master General (by petition) to- wards establishing a Post OITice. From the number of respectable and wealthy gentlemen settled down in the country back of Cold Creek n post-office established nearer than the month of the Trent would be a desirable convenience, to say nothing at all of the wanes of the villa- gers> who from their extensive tfade in lumber, would be much bene- fitted by it. The country is good along the Napanee and Rich- mond Rivers, through the townships of Richmond and Tyendinaga to Shannon ville, but still densely wooded. — 'Ihe beautiful headlands of the Bay of Quinte," arid the lovely and romantic scenery along the banks of the Trent to Rawdon, is more completely British than any thing I have witnessed in the Province. There is abundance of fine land in the townships of Sidney Rawdon, Murray^ and Seymour. Sidney is well settled, and the land in the highest state of cultivation. It is a fine township, well worthy of attention. Ernest-town and Fredericksburgh are well settled: the farms are good and of reasonable price. In the township of Marmora, situated on the lake and river, are the Marmora Iron WorkSj which give employment to a numerous body of men. The land in the back townships is not very good; that in the town- ship of Seymour is excellent, and settled by a highly re- spectable body of men. MADOO. This township, hitherto little noted, is bounded on the notih by Tli- dor, on the east by Elziver, south by Huntingdon, and west by Mar- mora. It is distant from Belleville about twenty-eight miles, its area is 70,000 acres, 50,000 of which are farming land, 30,000 of which are equal to any lands in the Province for strength of soil, convenience of Water and beauty of timber. There is now resident in the township eighty-one fkmilies, making a population of about two hundred souls. These havt nearly 4000 acres under good improvementi and raise an lipi*En cANAbA^ 161 libun(taiice of nil the substnntiala of life for the cohsumptioh ttfthe in^ iiabitanla, besides inrtnuraiHuiiiig large quantities of potash for export- Qtion. Tlicre is at present but one flouring and one saw-mill In town* They are owned by our enterprising fellow townsman, D. Mackenzie, Vvho is ninkini^ thorough repairs and extensive additions to them at preat expentso, in Order to n)eet the growing demands on that esta* hlishnirnt for the coming year. An iron work is now being built in the vicinity of the ubove mills, by Messrs. Pendergast 5? Co. gentle* men from the United Stiiies. The work will stand on lot No. 1, of the 6lh concession. This establishntifnt is one of great consequence to Madoc and the surrounding country, for we are informed, when in ope- ration, it will give constant employment, in all departments of the busi- ncse^ to one hundred hands. The ore to be smelted is the magnetic oxide, and will produce about 70 per cent of iron. This extensive and valuable bed of iron ore U on lot No. 11, of the 5th concession, and was bought of the Canada Company, who^ with a liberality rarely to be met with, have sold it to the present owners at an advance beyond the ordinary price of lands in the neighbourhood, on condition only that they should improve it. Tiiis township contains other valuable minerals, such as beds of fine murble, zinc, lead, and propably copper, which might be worked to great profit. These, added to as fine a soil as the world produces, pure and abundant streams of water, fine timber and a healthy country, all conspire to render Madoc at this time as der feirable a location for th» farmer, the capitalist, and the man of science, as any in the Province. CANADIAN PAIRS. TO THE i5DIT0R OP THE KINGSTON CHRONICLE. Sir — That valuable European custom of holding Fairs semi-anniially is fast gaining ground in this Province ; the farmers are learning, by expedience, that a Mart for horses, cattle, grain, &c. twice every year, where Cash is generally paidj and purchasers are in waiting, is pre- '"rable to the farmer's ruinous practice of Trade, as it is technically termed, and the merchants, auctioneers, &c. anticipate the Fair with elated expectation, arising from an almost sure market for their varied commodities. These facts have been pleasingly proved to demonstra- tion at the late Fair held at Napanee on the 1st, 2d and 3d instant The march of intellect is fast progressing, and those who were a few years since shrouded in natural, or rather ignorant diffidence, are ac- quiring that spiirit of emulation which is the invariable characteristic of a prosperous country, or colony ; and those farmers residing in tkt 21 and actually 713 bushels seliinff r&i* Casli, . Wheat, 159 Com, 190 lO'l Kye, Teas, 51 61 Bwrley, Oats, 162 trrER Canada. Counties of Lenox and Addlngton, evinced their capability of appceri- «ting the vast advantages accruing from the Napanee Fair, by entering 3 Entire Horses, 93 Working •» 12 Young ** 100 Cowa 47 Oxen 40 Young Cattle, ' Sales of horses, &c- could not be ascertained from the disposers not informing the Clerk, but doubtless the sales realized their most elated expectations. The business of the Fair was not interrupted for a mo- ment by intoxication or disturbance ; all was conducted with regularity and despatch, which does credit to the farmers and others who were in attendance. To the praise of the Managers of the Fair they were prompt and indefatigable in making every exertion for the p.oper con< ducting of business, evincing that public spiritednes» which has been worthily attached to their names. JOHN O. DELTOR, Clerk. Napanee, March 5, 1836. A reference to the map will show the number and magnitude of the Lakes with which these Districts, in the eastern division of Upper Canada, abound. This Dis- trict returns seven Members to the House of Assembly. PRINCE EDWARD DISTRICT, Is divided into the following townships : * "^ Townihips. Cultivated aorw. Uncultivated acres. Asseisment, Population. Hallowell, 22,275 37,572 i:C>S,153 Sophiasburgh, 14,240 24,573 43,356 Ameliasburgh, 10,521 26,589 30,7a4 Hillier, 12,793 16,621 30,963 Marysburgh, 9,072 23,205 28,280 «,uu^ Horses 2,922-Four year old Oxen, 1367— Milch Cows, 5,763- Worned Cattle, from two to four years old, 1,460. Although swampy in some parts, the land in this lovdy island is extremely good : the villages of Picton and Htaiowell, in the township of Hallowell, are dclightfufr- 4,034 2,24t 2,141 l,a39 2,065 UPPER CANADA. 163 )y situated. There is constant communication by steam l)f)ats and schooners in summer, and the sleigliing in the Bay of Qtiinte is excellent during the winter. There are churches, schools, taverns and stores, in this District, and Jand of excellent quality can be obtained at a reasonable rate. It is an interesting part of Upper Canada. The country is beautifully diversified with picturesque and ro- mantic views of hill, dal , and water. This District re- turns two Members to the House of Assembly. One newspaper is published in it, called the Traveller, both in matter and manner highly respectable. This District ofiTcrs very tempting inducements to agriculturalists : the soil is exccllenf, the timber valuable, communications constant, and the situation delightful. The Traveller in speaking of the number of emigrants arrived this year,: now more than 25,000, notices this district as follows: — On Monday, 25th July, the schooner Prince Edward, Capt. Young, discharged a cargo of salt, at the new pier which is now in the course of erection, at Wellington, by that spirited and enterprising gentleman, Archibald McFaul, Esq. This schooner is the first vessel that has been enabled to unload at the pier, since its commencement, but the - work is now proceeding so steadily and rapidly, that by the first of September or thereabouts, vessels of almost any burthen, will be able to imload with safety and ease, and the pier will then vie m appearance and strength, with any in the Province. It is al«o expected that several of the Lake Steamboats will make it a stopping place, on their passage to and from Toronto, one in particular, is we believe already pledged to do so, from the time the pier is completed, until the end of the pre- sent season. From all the accounts we have seen, we are inclined to think, that the number of emigrants arriving at Quebec, during the present year, . will equal, if not exceed that of any previousyear, notwithstanding the prosperous times in England, which have naturally induced us to ex- pect a corresponding diminution in the number of those who annually loave their native land to seek a new home in the new world. We are gJad to eee this, and still more do we rejoice to see that most of them bend their coiwse to Upper Canada, to assist in strenglhenmg the bond 164 UPPER CANADA. which unites us to the mother country. There is ample room for tbem ^11, there are regions In the west still unsettled, still uncleared, and there are many delightful locations in those scciinns of tho Province, which have been settled for many years, which invite the attentiou alike of the capitalist, the gentleman, the artizan, and the labourer. In the latter list we may rank our own beautiful and fertile District, of which we safely say that totlie natives «f the British I^le^', it oilers at- tractions inferior to none, superior to most of the other parts of the Pro- vince. Indented with beauuful buys and almost entirely surrounded by navigable waters, it needs only to be examined to he admired, and we hope that many who have not yet fixed upon a location, will pause and view the beauties of Prince Edward District, ere their lot in lifo is cast, perhaps forever, But above all, we want more labourers, we thought that a cargo of 115 souls would have supplied our wants for pome time, but we were mistaken. More are wanted yet, and tUq sooner they come the better for themselves and their employers. THE NEWCASTLE DISTRICT Is divided into two counties, Northumberland &t Durham. COUNTY OP NOUTllUAinKRLANDi. Cultivated acres. UiiRuliivateii aures. Assesiiment, Townships. Asphodel, jflamilton, Cramahe^ Smith, Haldimand, Monaghan, Seymour, Percy, Ennismore, Murray, Otonabee, Douro, Dummert Emily, Clarke, Darlington, Cavan, Eldon, Ops, Hope, Mariposa, Manvers, 1,020 13,160 10,039 4,077 12,483 1,616 1,205 l,S5t> 604 7,77a 4,269 1,730 875 13,253 26,702 24,aj9 21,172 22,730 14,362 19,156 6,670 5,112 28,442 29,430 16,385 18,194 COUNTY OP DURHAM. 2,686 6,245 6,686 8,554 1,163 1,198 10,532 799 26,470 19,681 25,746 36.705 14,332 23,077 27,835 10,468 £ 5,983 50,392 31,624 11.708 .^3,371 ?,751 7,252 6,281 2,045 23,5:58 16,335 7.975 5,587 11,655 17,016 21,288 25.218 5,338 8,340 41,516 4,00^ Population, 428 3,708 2,247 1,08T 2,295 1,607 63a 512 236 2,064 1,260 744 693 1,518 1,635 1,865 2.675 694 931 2,739 615 154 Horses, 3,339— Four year old Oxen, 4,405— Milch Cows, 7,695- Korpea Cftttle, from two to four years old; 3,267, UPPRU CANADA. 165 This District has a greater chain of lakes and water oommunication, than an} other portion of Upper Cana- da, and a great deal of controversy has existed as to the practicability of making it available for navigable purpo* ses, — some contending that the improvement of the Ri- ver Trent would bo most advisable, — others desirous of connecting the Rice Lake with i^ake Simcoe through the long chain of lakes, — and others anxious that the Ot- tawa should be connected with Lake Huron, to secure the North West Trade to Montreal. Whatever decision will be finally adopted, it is very certain that the agitation of the question alone, brings forward, in a prominent de- gree the vast capabilities of this interesting section of the Province, which must one day be covered with schooner? and steamers, carrying to distant markets, the produce of its enterprising settlers. It abounds with villages, and has some highly respectable families located in it. The township of Hamilton is bounded in the front by Lake Ontario, and in the rear by the Rice 1-iake. The village ofCoBOuiiG, in this township, is pleasantly situated in a fine bay on Lake Ontario; — it contains a population of 1,300 persons. Its streets are remarkably clean — the houses regular and painted. There are three brick and five large stone houses; — a neat English church contain- ing an organ, and having for its pastor a most exemplary and worthy man; — a fine large stone wind-mill, several stores, a most excellent tavern, and two printing presses, which supply Cobourg, and its vicinity, with two week- ly newspapers. There is also a Seminary, built by mem- bers of the methodist persuasion, in a fine, high, and commanding situation. It is four stories in height, 135 feet frontage: — it is a brick building covered with stucco : the centre part is surmounted with a cupola. The farms round this neighbourhood are excellent, well cleared, and 166 UPPER CANADA. in fine cultivaiioii, adinirahly acia|)ted for grazing: the Drcliards arc well stocked with choice fruit trees. The Jail and court-house is a largo stone building ; it stands on a commanding situation, embraces a fine view of the lake and sun(Kinding country ; it is two miles above Cobourg on Dundas street, in the village of Amherst. — The road from Cobourg to the liice Lake, thirteen miles, is through a pleasing country, particularly about midway at a place called the Cold Springs, a fine valley, lying be- tween two lofty hills. The road from this place gently rises untir you come near the Rice Lake, of which, and Its beautiful islands, you obtan a fine view; the slope from thence is gradual and pleasing. In Rice l^akc there are many islands, large and small. Its Indian n-amc is Pe- iTiadashkautiong. There are immense quantities of wild fowl here, that live u})on the rice. From Sully the lake is crossed, to ascend the Otanabee river, which divides the townships of iMonaghan and Otanabee. Both the Otanabee and the Trent empty themselves into Rice Lake. The river is very beautifully skirted by thickly wooded banks, which rise gradually towards Peterbo- rough. This village stands on a fine elevated, sandy plain, and in a very central situation in the District: — it is divided by the river, and is immediately adjoining and above the small lake. It commenced in 1825 under the superintcndance of the Hon. P. Robinson, who lived with a large body of Irish emigrants for some time. It is beautifully wooded with choice trees. A very good and substantial frame bridge has been erected across the Otanabee river at this place. It contains a po- pulation of JjOOO persons, and continues still improving. 'i'hcrc are two churches, several stores, excellent mills, good inns, schools, a distillery, and some very respectable settlers in the neighbourhood. From Peterborough to the CVPV.n CANADA. 167 ChemoniL^ lake, is a disrancc of six inilcs across llic town- hlii)) of .Smith. Frani Chemoii*:; Fiako there is waifr coin- innnicaiion to the upper extremity ofvSturgcoii Lake, a distance of eight miles, passing by the township ofEnnis- inore, Emily, Verulam, Harvey, Fenelon, Ops, Cartwright EKJon, and Mariposa. There is excellent land in all these townships, and partially cleared farms may be obtained at moderate prices. A few years hence, when the capa- bilities of this fine District are fully established, they will be improved and greatly augmented in value. At the mouth of the Trent, which empties itself into the Bay of Quinte, is situated the village of that name: — it contains 600 inhabitants, and many tov\n-lots have been recently sold at high prices. It must eventually become a very flourishing town, possessing as it does an excellent har- bour, being situate at the head of the Bay of Quinte, and terminating the great water communication from Lake Simcoe, This river is, at this point, at least a quarter of a mile in width. Unquestionably, a rail-road to Cobouig would confer vast benefits on this portion ofthe country: let them have as many rail roads anil canals to Cobonrg rni Port Hope as the inhabitants of those places may deem proper and requisite; but 1 do positively and confidently assert, that nothing short of opening the entire navigation of th« Treat would confer any solid or permanent benefits to this extensive por> tion of the District; — it is our natural outlet to the sea; improving tlie navigation backwards would be working against nature and ihestreain. I am glad to find the settler admits, that the general state of the coun- try, (facts are stubborn things,) and more particularly the lumber ti'ade, calls for a water communication. Admitting the ''long line'' to be now completed, what advantage would it be to Peterborough, com- pared with the improvement ofthe Trent? Where is the trade, — where is the produce, and where are the inhabitants to support it? Do not suppose that I am adverse to improving the navigation back to Peter- borough : I admit its utility'; but that day has not come yet. First of all open theTrent, and with a very trifling improvement, the Otonabe from Peterborough to Rice Lake, will answer our present purposes: — a caaal to Mud Lake must follow : by means of these improvements. 168 tI»t*LR CANADA. the latida along the back waters will hecomu ftettled) and then. )>ui not until then, la there the least necessity for such on enormous outlay, to the injury of tho District at larj^e. On the other l»and, by opening the Trent, Petorborough and nil the surrounding country, will im- prove beyond calculation ; to say nothing of the vast importance it would be to the entire route from Kingston, including both sides of the Uay of Q,uinfc and the Trent to Peterborough : the immense quantities of beautiful timber now destroyed by the axe and firt*, would find on easy conveyance, not only to the markets of Montreal and Quebechul to all thetowns of the neighboring state of New York. I tiust our Le- gislature, (who with a few insignificnt exceptions, ] believe to havethe welfare of the country at heart,) laying aside all political rancour, will give it their immediate and unbiased attention ; and ere long, I hope to see the jib-booms of a dozen strong brigs, capable of carrying 300 to 400 tons, peeping out of the bush on Rice Lake and Otanabee River and three or four steamers taking a dozen more in tow, half lumber la^ den, drawing 8 to feet water, bound to Quebec, there to complete their equipment and cargoes for our native shores. In a word, the o- pening of the Trent would completely develope the now dormant re- sources of this delightful district. The settler flees from London to China, chimerical, to compare old settled countries with a dense po- pulation, where every foot of land is highly cultivated, and, conse- quently, where there is a vast quantity of surplus produce, and where a cheap and speedy conveyance is absolutely indispensiblejtoafew new- ly settled townships, with a few stragg ling inhabitants ; or even com* pare them to Peterborough and its surrounding townships, with a popu- lation of about 20,000 inhabitants, to say nothing of the well settled townships bordering on the Rice uake and River Trent. In this the Cobourg rail road comes at once into notice, as opening Peterbnro' with the front. Then is there a line of about 45 miles, which could be opened for about i^lO,000, viz. by a rail road to Mud Lake from Peterboro' — a distance of 7 miles, and by finishingthe Canal at Rokeby, which would at once lay open a large extent of a fine, fast settling part of the country, which has, within these few years, been changed from a wilderness to one of the most civilized parts of Canada The next obstruction is at Cameron's Falls, a height of about 28 feet } probably £15,000 would be sufficient to obviate that. Then is there iLo obstruction to Balsam Lake, from which, a rail road of 16 mile< would open lake Simcoe, at an expense of perhaps £20,000, thus Jaj- ing open the extensive tract of ground round Lake iSiincoe, aad from tPPKR CANAbA. 16& '^)Ma \6 i!*clcrboroiigh and Lake Ontario, at .the inconsiderable sum of ^(>r),000. Tiie in»proveiitent of the Trent in required by the settlers along its hanks, and hy those crtgas^cd in himbering. Tiie improvement of the Trent is rcqniied not only to supply tlie present wants of the country, hut it will he the mciinsofcrcatini? for itself an immense business. Such has boon the case with all the canals in England — and to come nearer hoinr, such hfis been the cai?e with the Erie canal, a work wiiich has Ix'on the means of doing more good to ihe country through which it runs, and of crentinr^ for itself more business than even the persevering projector of it himself ever contemplated — such unquestionably will be the ca^e with the Trent — if any one doubts it, let him look at the shores of the Uay of Quinte. Wherever a steam-boat can approach on either «ide of the Bay, there we see extensive clearances well stocked, and with substantial buildings, villaqfes rising in every direction, and two towns at least of as much importance to their respective districts, as any towns or villages in the Province — Belleville and Hallowell. Why is it so on the Uay of dnintc ? Because there U an excellent navigation nearly up to every man'v door, which enables him, or what is the same thing, his merchant to have a quick, cheap and easy communicatioa with the bestof Markets, Kingston, Gananoque, and Montreal. Beit remembered that the country on each side of the Bay of Q,uinte is less indebted to emigration from Great Britain and Ireland than any part of the Province, it is hardly known except to those who are obliged to travel on the Bay, yet I will venture to say, in the neighborhood of each convenient shipping place, it is as much settled, and the inhabi- tants are as industrious and prosperous as any part of the Province. The Trent, when improved* would allow of shipping places at every part of its banks; and it is natural to expect that those advantages would be sei'^ed, and the country about it quickly improved, when fa- cilities to and from market are afforded. Besides, there is one article of the lumber tradci boards and deals for the American market, which from the peculiar water privileges of the Trent and its tributary streams, would of itself add greatly to the business of the Canal. Last year great quantities of the above article were shipped for the States from the Trent and Belleville, and the demand would be fully equal to any sup- ply the country could afford, and no section of the country is better able to afford that supply than the country about the Trent* PORT HOPE ts situated seven miles above Cobourg on the lake-shore; 22 170 trrnn Canada. it is ill the township of Hope. There is n beautiful stream running through it called Smith's Creek: it runs between two picturesque hifls, rendered more so by the churches and houses being placed among the trees. The steam-boats touch at the wharf, erected at the termina- tion of the creek. It contains 1,000 inhabitants. There are some excellent mills in the village, a fine brew- house and distillery, and an excellent harbour made by two piers jutting out into the lake, with the creek running between them. The iNew C'astle District returns four Members to the House of Assembly. It is a beautiful District, offering to eveiy class of settler the most ample opportunities of successful employment. 'Ine improve- ment of the '] rent is thus ably argued by the Editor of that respectable paper, the Cobourg Star : — Advantageously Bituated on the mighty Ontario, opposite the most commercial part of the Union, and oflciinjr a highway by a grand chain of waters through its interior to the St. Lawrence, the District of N^ewcastle will, at no distant period, rank the first in point of pros- perity and wealth in Upper Canada. As we fortunately have at last got a House of Assembly, indisposed to harass the country, and retard its internal advancement and happiness by useless agitation, we may look forward, under its auspices, for the developemcnt of those rich re- sources, which a bountiful Providence has so abundantly lavished on (his District. The enterprising individuals in the rear of us, who are now literally land-locked in their forests, and consequently unable to realize any thing from their produce, or derive the least profit from the valuable lumber with which they are surrounded, have claims upon the Legislature of no ordinary character. Most of them have spent their properties in the purchase and clearance of land, in situations where it was hopeless to locate, without an expectation that the splen- did resources shut up in that section of the country, would be made available to themselves and the community, through the obvious chan- nels of communication which layspread out before them. With this expectation they settled upon the shores of those beautiful lakes and rivers, which fertilize the interior of this district, and form a natural diain of waters, in many places navigable for ships of the line, extend- ing from lake Ontario, through the heart of the Newcastle and Home soon work tional the ac descri openii Dii3tri( ment of the promo hance( settler ment a si mi hands, the e: but or the B{ rpiMIR CANADA. 171 Didtrictfi, nlmost to hiko Huron. His ExcelliMJcy !?ir Jolin Colborne, during the period of his udniiiiistraiion, was fully sensible of thu ini- niense uaturul ndvant.iget) of whicli tliis l)i!:>trict in particular was puH- Bcssed ; and from the persona! olHcrvalions whicli lie made in \m oc- casional visit's to the hacU country, foresaw the day at hand, when, with a litile improvement, this finely liaibered and well watered region would bo witlj;n the reach of a seaport, and Iiave ready access to tl»e first. To forward the advancement of tlio Province formed one of the chief objects of his concern ; with this in view, he gave his attention to tho internal navigation of the Newcastle and Home Districts, and con- templating a grand nr^asure, ordered the ioimcdiato survey of the whole from the Hay of (-luiiite to Lake Huron. Tho result of thi» sur- vey was laid before the late Hoj^j of Assembly, but that House being at the time composed of vicious materials, tliroughtlie treachery of one or two pretended friends to this District, abandoned a plan commen- surate with the vast impoitance of the undertaking, for the paltry sum of £10,000, which sum it determined should be expended in a man- ner best suited to the convenience of two or three interested individual* in favour with the ruling majority. The grant of £16000 might, how- ever, be better than nothing at all, but this even was neutralized througii the factious opposition offered by the House, and as a matter of course by the aforesaid friends of the District, to the Lieutenant Governor. There can be no doubt that the benefit of that half measure will be soon enjoyed, but the present House must not be satisfied because the work may be commencing. It is a duty incumbent on the Constitu- tional Members of the new Parliament, to use every exertion towards the advance of the improvement in the country, and especially that description which will confer the most general benefit. We view the opening of the Trent, and the back waters of the Newcastle and Home Districts, as a work of this character ; in the first place, the employ- ment which the work will afford, and the requisition almost at the door of the fanner for his produce, will be of advantage, inasmuch aw it will promote induvstry, and serve to tranquilize the country; then the en- hanced value which property, in many cases in tho hands of needy settlers, will assume— the influx of capital, when a spirit of improve- ment shall have been properly excited — the progress of other works of a similar kjnd, and the consequent increase of trade and demand of hands, will have effect all over the Province. When we consider also the extent of the improvement — that it is not a mere local undertaking, but one, besides opening the back country, it will give opportunity for the speedy filling up of the whole tract lying between the great work 172 UPPER CANADA. and the front, by «onnecting improvements, it muKt bo ndiiiittcJ tlifil the whole country would derive benefit from an improvenieiit of mik ti primary importance. When the character for unterpriau oCihe Cmi- adas becomes more established, and active measures, beyond the n)t're groping our way, ore taken to render them a field for prosperous t«pf>c- ulations, the people will not have time nor inclination to quiirrel with their **brcad and butter," or pine at home over grievances, existing only in their own discontented imoginings. It iswliilst looking forward to these prospects that we anticipated the time when thu West will lutt be inundated by the humbler class of settlers, without the means of employing them, but as a larger portion of emigrants will be moniod men, so a readier circulation of capital will be obtained to support the labouring population, of which great numbers would be drawn off to places where improvements were being carried on. Until the only road which the country can present with advantage for perhaps centu- ries, we mean the water communication, be rendered navigable, we cannot make much greater advances. But in a little time we hopt» effective means will be obtained to put the grand resourced of wealth, now locked up in the interior of the country, into operation, that we may shortly behold beautiful fields euiiliiig amidst the wild recesses of the forest. THE HOME DISTRICT, The largest and most important in the Province, is sub- divided into Four Ridings, and the County of Simcoe. FOUR RIDINGS 01' YORK. Townships. Uncultivatud aores. CuUivated ncras. York, 36,357 Uxbridge, 5,107 Georgiana, 8,932 North Gwillimbury, 7,780 Caledon, 30.6ft8 Brock, 23,903 Markham, 43,107 East Gwillimbury, 18,533 Reach, 9,118 Chinguacousy, 47,293 Pickering, 33,169 Toronto (old survey) 14,465 Toronto, 21,265 Scarboro, 22,742 Whitby, 36,661 Whitchurch, 25,852 K^ing, 29,964 Gore of Toronto, 12,655 13,674 1,660 1,218 1,834 4,297 3,187 20,370 6,643 1,002 12,217 10,171 7,161 13,032 8,109 14,523 10,237 5,569 3,170 Population. AsieMment. 5,040 £51,555 431 5,697 369 4,889 481 5,434 1,414 14,785 1,077 11,100 4,349 60,749 1,374 21,510 444 4,002 2,42S 32.089 2,642 23,358 687 32,152 4,384 37,750 2,047 22,537 2;808 44,898 2,454 37,154 1,889 20,648 687 9,863 UPI'ER CANADA. ^ 17, 20,289 4,173 1,089 13,484 39,016 11,699 2,985 37,901 l(i,0:i9 6,751 1,344 18,734 <;orNTY orsiMcoK. 9,941 813 337 3,691 5,757 404 272 2,066 15,253 1,551 676 6,18» 10.O13 755 447 5,030 2-i,9:35 4,474 1,410 13,665 17,151 707 602 6,665 32.646 1,689 1,060 10,361 12,449 i,ia4 616 6,005 12,0a4 834 690 4,683 30,963 6,563 1,305 19,143 4/W7 156 no return, 2,234 4,501 603 609 5,299 3,476 125 106 1,08a Ali>ii)ri, Vuuijliiin, MiuUii'ukt*, Tlioiuh, Mono, Vespra, 'IVouinsulli, Mt'donle, ()jo, Ailjula, liiniHtil, We«t(Jwilliiiiburv, 30,963 Orilliu, Tiny & Tay, Flos, For the number ofHorses, Oxen, Sec. vide Appendix. 'J lie city of Toronto, the capital of Upper Canada, has so rapidly improved since I saw it first, on the fourth of June, 1833, that, judging of the future from the past, it is scarcely possible to conjecture what advance it may yet make. It is in latitude 43 ® 39' n., and longitude 79 ® 36' w. It is very prettily situated within an excellent harbour of an eliptical form, comprising an area of eight or nine square miles, made by a long peninsula, on which a large hotel has been erected ; and at its extremity is a large light house as a direction to the entrance of the Bay. It is a semi-circular strip of land, of a sandy na- ture, resembling that between Burlington Bay and Lake Ontario, and like it, has some trees of a stunted growth upon it. The bay is about three miles in diameter, and at the east end of the city, a bridge is erected over the ri- ver Don, which empties itself into this Bay. There is a large wind-mill erected here. From the old French Fort to the River Don, a distance of at least three miles, this city extends, containing some spacious and handsome ed- ifices. The Parliament Houses and the Government Buildings are large and well built, but by no means dis- I7i UPPER CANADA. tingnished for their elegance. Tlie I. cgislativc Council Ciminbcr is a splendid room, superbly decorated ; the royal arms, the ilironc, the speakers chair, are gorgeous in the extretne. As the room is an ornament to the city of Toronto, sohapj)ily arc its members, the protection of the Province, the bidwark of the constitution, its prop, stay, and security against frantic levellers and schenjing republicans. Long may it exist, the offspring of the Crown, forming a separate and entirely independent branch of the legislature, — in its origin and intention, cal- culated to form the glorious and legitimate incitement to virtuous and patriotic action : — standing alike secure from the impulse of sudden and factious movements, and the controul of hasty popular excitement, as from the iniluence of arbitrary power. Any impartial individual who could read their splendid defence against the atro- cious calumnies of the late discarded and ignorant House of Assembly, would immediately perceive that the hatied of the latter, could be well accounted for by that snarling envy, which hates the excellence it cannot reach. The House of Assembly is a fine commodious cham- ber, neatly finished, and fitted u|). The Government House is an indifferent frame building, but the grounds around it are tastefully ornamented with a profusion of beautiful flowering trees and shrubs. The Hospital is a large, but heavy erection, but from the zeal and talent of the medical gentlemen who attend it, of inconceivable ad- vantage to the country. There is in the hospital a beau- tiful model of the new university which is expected to be erected near this city ; and a preparation of singular value in its museum, more curious even than that living wond(T, the Siamese Twins, — two children with distinct heads and trmiks, united together in the ^ower extremity. The Upper Canada College is a plain, but spacious _ « ■ f/PPF.n CANADA. I7b building, or rather series of buildings, with fine gravelled wuiks and neat shrubberies in front. This ndniirable in- stitution stands a proud monument of the paternal afiec- tion which Sir John Coiborne felt for the Province ; a- midst every discouragement he persevered until he suc- ceeded fully in establishing it, and it will doubtless long remain an honor to the Province, and the means of diffu- sing the highest branches of knowledge to hundreds of her sons, I'here are several teachers belonging to it, distinguished for their attainments, and at the annual ex- aminations several of the scholars by their merit and ta- lent have reflected high honor on the establishment.— There are many benevolent end patriotic institutions in this city, amongst which one is particularly deserving of honoreible mention, — the Society for relieving emigrants coming from Grerft Britain totally destitute, and procur- ing immediate employment for them. Several societies of a similar description have been formed in differpnt parts of the Province, and I am happy that the District of Gore, behindhand in no good word or work, has esta- blished a like institution. There are many bcautiliil stores in Toronto; the hardware store of Messrs. Kidout &: Co — the glass and china store of Shutcr & Co., and lately a superb druggist's establishment by Mr. Beckef, equal to any^thingon the continent of America, has been opened. From the spirit and enterprize of the Inhabitants of To- ronto, there is every reason to believe that a rail road communication will be formed between the city and Lake Huron, via. Lake Simcoe ; the ground is now being sur- veyed for the purpose, TORONTO AND LAKE HURON RAIL ROAD. The Company chartered last winter, to construct thia Rail Ro«d, ar» making vigoroufi exertions to commeace the work. 't?**^*^ 176 t;pi»ER CAJ^AtoA. At a meeting lately held in lliis City, £1500 was subsrribed by ^ gentlemen, which is to be paid down to defray the expenses of «urveyt^. It was Resolved by said meeting-, that a person should go immediately to the United States, to employ one of the most bkilful and experien- ced Engineers that could be found, to come and explore the cointrV between the City of Toronto and Lake Huron, in order to determine the best roate, and the most advantageous place tor it to terminate. I am surprised that the Com|>any couhl not (ind a man poasessin"? talents, knowledge and experience enough in this Province to liy out a Rail Roid, and show where it should terminate, that would prove the most profitable. I thought that I would see if 1 could lay out the plan, and deternfme the best route for said Rail Road to run, and where it should termir.ate. I have done so, and find thot the best way, for the interests of all that may be therein concernedy and to secure the trade from the United States that will pass this way from New York to Michigan, and the western parts of Upper Canada and the United States. First, and main projection, is to run in nearly a north western di- rection from the tiiV of Toronto, and is to terminate at the mouth of Shawgene river, which empties into Lake Huron, about GO miles north of Goderich. There is nn inland in front of the river, which will form an excellent break-water, and will assist in forming a good harbour. — The distance on the line from this city to Lake Huron, will be one hundred and twenty miles. It lies in a direct line from Oswego to the far distant west, and nearly ro with the head of Sagana Bay ; and a rail road from the head of this Bay, about 60 miles in length, will strike the centre of Mic, ' \n Lake. The lands at the head of Sagana Bay, have been settling (or many years past, and it is very probable, for that state, that it will become the seat of government. The country on both sides of Michigan Lake, is rapidly increasing in population, &c., and the country on the south side of lake Superior, will, in a few years he settled, so that by this line of communication, the principal part of the trade, &c., of that vast country will flow doiVn this way to Montreal and New- York. The object of this rail road will be to unite the interests and efforts of the inhabitants of Lake Ontario, by making a short rail road from the head of the Lake, to the main rail road in the towMshipof Caledon, which will be about forty miles long. The distances from the lake, and from this city to the junction in Caledon, will be equal. Another branch can be made from Caleoon to Penet- angushine, making the whole distance from this city, or the head of the lake, by Cakdon, only 100 miles to Penetangushine. Also another IPPER CANADA* l7l Hiaiich may be made to the town of Gbderich, to unita with the mairt rail road. It will be about forty miles in length. The main rail road will pass through a beautiful and fertile country, which lies between Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Huron, the greater part of which is as yet a complete wilderness. The advantage of this great rail road running through such an ex- tensive country will be very great. It will be the means of inducing emigrants to settle between this city and Lake Huron; and the coun- try will bo enriched by this much wanted and important enterprize. Toronto, July 23, 183G. JOHN SMITH. P. S. — Since I completed the above, 1 am creditably informed there is a good harbour at present at the mouth of the river Shawgene ;— there is a ledge of rocks about six feet high above the water, running from the shore around the mouth of the river, in the form of a semi- circle, and deep water inside. J. S. ENGINEER'S REPORT. 'T. W. Higiiam, the Engineer, has reported that having made a rfi"* connoissance of ihe line of road from Toronto to Lake Huron, he finds the route quite as favorable as he had been led to expect, that from Toronto to the Oak Ridges, a distance of from 25 to 30 miles, the in- clination of the road will be from 20 to 25 feet, through the Oak Ridg- es, a distance of from 7 to 10 miles, the inchnation will vary from 20 to 40 feet per mile, that the certain length of the road will be from 75 to 90 miles, according to the point on Lake Huron, where it may be found most desirable to terminate the Rail Road, and that the entire expense of every description, excepting only the purchase of the City property required will not exceed ten thousand dollars per mile. Osgoocle Hall is a very handsome brick building, con- taining excellent accommodation for the students in law, and for the barristers who come from the country to To- ronto during term. There is a council room or convo- cation chamber, and an admirable library. The Upper Canada Bank is a fine stone edifice, and the Canada Company have a new house for transacting their business. There is an excellent Market-house, surrounded with sub- stantial buildings, the Mechanics' Institute hold their meet- ings in one of those forming the market square — the mu^ nicipal authorities meet in another — a commercial reading 23 li 178 tPPEa CA?(AI3A. room is at one corner, where the English, Irish, Scotch, and Colonial papers, Magazines, Reviews, ^c. are taken in, and to which strangers can readily obtain access through the courtesy of any of the subscribers. The mark- ets are most excellently supplied with meat, lish, poultry, egf;s, vegetables, butter and fruit. The Episcopal Church is a heavy, large, and substantial building, sufficiently ca- pacious for the accommodation of 4,0(0 persons. It is very chastely and elegantly finished, in the interior. The Catholic Church is a large and handsome building, near the Don bridge ; it is insufficient for the accommodation of the numerous Catholics in this city and its vicinity. The Presbyterian Church is a brick building, and pos- sesses a large and most respectable congregation ,* — the Methodists have a also a very spacious brick chapel in this city ; — the colored inhabitants of Toronto have also an African church which is well attended — it is very gratify- ing to bear testimony to the good conduct of the negroes residing in this city — they have most of them escaped from Slavery, they are well protected and kindly used, and appear to evince a sense of gratitude at their treat- ment, and show that they duly appreciate the inestimable blessing of freedom : — the streets are wide and well laid out, and owing to the indefatigable exertions of George Gurnett, Esq., are now well drained, alike enhancing the health and comfort of the inhabitants : — there are many excellent taverns, some of the first rate character. Four newspapers of unquestionable talent are printed in this city — the Courier, Albion, Patriot, and Christian Guardi- an. Immediately adjoining Osgoode Hall is a splendid avenue of great length and remarkable beauty, intended as the entrance to the King's College. A fine hawthorn hedge, a great rarity in this Province, skirts the bounds ; between it and the spacious gravel walk, is a deep shrub- UPPER CANADA. 17^ berry, on both sides, planted with the choicest trees, the gentle waving acacia, the graceful horse-chesnut, the flowering catalpa, the variegated locust, the dark green balsam, and the elegant cypress. The privafe houses of some of the principal inhabitants of Toronto are large and lofty, and display great taste. There is a constant intercourse kept up with all parts of the Province and the States, during the summer months, by steam boats, and it is a very lively city, at the sitting of the Provincial Parliament, in the winter, if the sleighing is good. The literati of Toronto have established an admirable Literary Society presided over by the Attorney General, whose varied accomplishments and amenity of manners render him an ornament to society, and specially patronized by the present Lt. Governor, SirF, B. Head— himself a dis- tinguished contributor to the literature of the day. There is a plan now in cont jinplation and likely to be carried into cflfcct, to light up the city with gas. The population of the city of Toronto amounts to 10,000 persons. There are many large manufactories at Toronto, specified with great accuracy in the Toronto and Home District Calen- dar, amongst them may be mentioned a large foundry, and a coach builder's. The stores are very numerous, — some of the merchants in immediate connection with Sheffield, Birmingham, and the potteries in England. The steam boat Great Britain is considered the most splendid on the lake ; it is of great dimensions, and con- tains as manv conveniences as a fashionable hotel. The cabins are long arid broad, and furnished in the most sumptuous manner ; that appropriated to the use of the ladies has sofas, mirrors, and every other luxury. It runs between Prescott and Niagara, touching at the intermedi- ate ports. Its size prevents its passage through the canal which connects the lake with Burlington Bay; it cannot i 180 UPPER CANADA. therefore stop at Hamilton, but the Cobourg, the 8t, George, the Oakville, the Britannia, the Traveller, and other steamers pass freely through the Canal to Hamil- ton. During the season, there is intercourse with Flamil- ton from Toronto, twice daily. The lake called Bur- lington Bay is always frozen up in winter; during the ]ast winter the ice was three feet five inches in thickness ; but the following account of the difficulty which the Tra- veller steam boat met with in the large lake, in the month of March 1836, is without a parallel. The ^Traveller,' Captain Sutherland, arrived here on Wednesday from Niagara, after experiencing no ordinary ditTicultiee. On leaving Niagara on Monday, she encountered such a solid body of drift ice and snow, as rendered it impossible to proceed. On Wednesday she fortunately got an opening in this mass; but immediately after, and when all obstruction was thought to be overcome, it was found that what appeared the calm surface of the water was a solid body of ice, about two inches thick, through which, forabout fifteen miles, the boat had to force her way. When about the middle of the lake it was con- sidered necessary to examine the vessel, to ascertain whether she was sustaining any damage. During this stop, our informant, with others of the passengers, and the captain, left the boat and went upon the ice. The merchants of Toronto last year addressed the Bri- tish Government, praying them to make a treaty with the United States, with a view to get goods by New- York free of duty. Judge Turvill, an eminent member of Congress, for the County of Oswego, spoke of the Address of the Merch- ants of Toronto to the British Government, in the House ot Representatives at Washington, in June of this year, in the following manner : Sir — The objects embraced in this address are of great importance to this Government, as well us to the Province of Canada— and there can be no doubt, therefore, that the existing obstacles to the commerce will soon be removed, since it is so decidedly for the interest of both countries to accomplish that object. In the United States, public at* TIPPER CANADA. 181 tention hat not yet been directed to this important subject. But little is known of this Province, and ita natural advantages are not under- stood. Sir, the peninsula of Upper Canada, in location, in fertility of noil, and salubrity of climate, is not surpassed by any portion of the United States. It is true that this Province is now comparatively a wilderness, having a very spare population ; but still the spirit of en- terprise, as exhibited in works of internal improvements,, would do honor to an older and wealthier country. The Canadians have wisely adopted the plan ofuniting and using, wherever practicable, the great water-courses of the country. Their effort has been to improve upon the works of nature, and not vainly attempt to outdo them. By means of the Rideau canal, a steamboat navigation has already been opened to Lake Ontario and Montreal, and the improvements now in progress on the St. Lawrence will open another communication between the same points for steamboats of the largest class, thus making a good ship navigation from Lake Ontario to the ocean. The Welland Canal, which will soon be enlarged and made permanent, now afibrds a sloop navigation between lake Erie and lake Ontario. A rail road is now being constructed between Hamilton, on lake Ontario, and Port Dover oil lake Erie. And the day is not far distant when lakes Huron and Ontario will be united by a ship canal. Sir, it requires but a mere glance at the map of Upper Canada to convince any one that, when these improvements shall have been completed, when the vast resour- ces of that Province shall have been developed, there will be an exten- sive commerce carried on upon lake Ontario, a portion of which will find its way down the St. Lawrence to Montreal ; and should Og- densburgh be connected with Vermont and New Hampshire by means of rail roads, a portion will take that direction to Boston, while all destined to New York must pass through the Oswego and Erie canals to the Hudson. The road from Toronto, along Yonge Street, to Lake Simcoe, passes through a fine and well cleared country : the first two miles are excellent, being Macadamized— the rest tolerable. TIIORNHILL. Twelve miles from Toronto, on this road, is the beau- tiful village of Thornhill, surrounded by excellent farms in the finest cultivation. The population is nearly 300 ; there is a neat church, good tavern, several stores, &c., J'' 182 VPPCR CANAWA. and surrounded by good roads. Six miles fnrther is New Market, delightAiIly located, surrounded with res- pectable settlers, and every accommodation for mills, stores, &c. Four miles beyond is Holland Landing on Lake Simcoe, from whence round the lake to Barrio is 28 miles : from Barric to Coldwater 12, to Oro, 13 to Oril- lia, and 14 more to Coldwater, a most beautiful tour through the townships skirting the lake. A little above Montgomery's tavern the road branches ofif to the township of Markham; and the village of Recs- orville, which is distant about twenty miles from 'J oron- to. It contains two or three taverns, some stores, good private houses, and is surrounded by fine farms, well wa- tered by a small, but moanderiiiiz; river, called the llouge, which falls into Lake Ontario, in the township of Pick- ering. STOFFKRSVILLE. Eight miles beyond Markham is the beautiful village of Stoufville: the country to it and around it, interesting jn the extreme and in the finest state of cultivation. The population of Stoufville is about 300. It is a fact worthy of mention that there are streams taking their rise between twenty and thirty miles from Toronto, falling into lake Huron, and then after pursu- ing their courses several hundred miles through Lake St. Clair — the rivers St. Clair and Detroit — Lake Erie — down the Falls of Niagara, pass in front of the city of Toronto again. The road from Reesorville to Toronto, by Scarboro', is through a dense forest for sonife miles — in the spring and fall, it is scarcely passable, but in progress of settle- ment—there are several villages along this route. A few miles from Montgomery's tavern, on Yonge-street, the Oak Ridges commence, a very elevated tract of land for tJlTKR CANADA. 1 fi5 sonic miles, cxteiul'mg u considerable distance, but sandy, the soil is indifferent, but the roads good. Beyond this, towards hike Sinicoo, the country is rich and fertile. In the township ol Vaugimn on the left of Yonge Street the country is well settled, churches, chnpels, schools, mills, taverns, extensive faruis, large orchards, good houses, and fair roads throughout. In the next township, King, the portion contiguous to Yonge St., is well settled — the soil excellent, and the timber of Majestic growth. There is in it a pretty and increasing village called King. The next township is Whitchurch, and it is admirably cleared, well settled, and doing much business: it possess- es some excellent houses, extensive farms, well planted orchards, neat gardens, large saw-mills, grist-mills, with several manufactories. The village of Newmarket in this township is well watered, and bears the character of a highly cultivated and productive country. About five miles from Newmarket, in the township of East Gwil- limbury, is a large and well built village called Hope: — the road from Newmarket to it is exceedingly tortuous, and the village, which lies in a complete hollow, at the termination of a very steep hill, is seen quite suddenly, and imparts a most picturesque and pleasing appearance to the scene. U is celebrated from some motlev sect hav- ing fixed themselves in it, headed by a David Wilson, a sort of Mohammed —who, although possessing an exte n- sive harem is not quite so jealous of its houris, as his il- lustrious predecessor in concupiscence, <• holding all things in common." It is not a little singular that that derai-semi-any-thing-arian, VV. L. Mackenzie, should dis- cover in this ranting, ravaging sect every thing in ac- cordance with his views of religion and morality. What with the influence of music, and the still softer attractions —the founder of this new sect has managed to induce im mj'' 184 tPPER CANADA. many farmers to dispose of their farms, to take atl rtcffi lot in this new village of Priapus. Alas ! how melancho- ly to contemplate a man forming a religion on the wreck of morality, and increasing the number of his votaries by holding out to them the unrestrained indulgence of their libidinous appetites. East and North Gwillimbury is well settled, and the country round lake Simcoe, particularly the delightful township of Georgina, is fapidly improving. Whitchurch is a beautiful township, standing on a commanding, ele- vated piece of table land, and abounding in fmc farms, with good houses and orchards. JJogart's mills are very extensive, turned by a copious stream-— several houses are built in the vicinity. The townships of Brock and Ux- bridge contain some fine tracts of timber land, and several extensively cleared farms. The new settled township of Tecumseth abounds in good land and offers fine opportu- nities for hard working and industrious settlers to locate themselves with advantage, land being cheap, good and abundant — there is a church and school -ho use in this township. ORO, Since 1832, has been generally taken up, and much set- tled — it is well watered by nearly fifty streams, running into the lake, with abundance of power for machinery. A grist and saw-mill has been erected ; the general cha- racter of the settlers are Highland and Lowland Scotch. The Highland settlement partakes of the native character of the Highlands, a beautiful undulating country of lofty hills and dale — the timber various but of fine growth ; there are roads open to the Lake and Narrows — distance from Toronto, 57 miles to the landing — bounded by Vespra, Medonte and Orilla. Many officers are settled on the lake shore ; the land is good and rapidly increasing t^FEU CAN ADA. J 83 ill value. Fioni tlie imrrows to Cold water setilernents nre every where forming. The country about Penetan- guishhie on lake Huron, is remarkably heahhy, tliO win- ter roads to it, crossing hike JSinicoc, excellent. In the $nnnner months it is deiij^hilul to persons who are pleased and entertained by the wild grandeur and simplicity of iuuiue. Tiie pure and transparent waters oT the beauti- ful bay, and the verdant foliage of tlie vast woods which adorn its sloping shores, are objects of great beauty : the military establishment, and the new village, embowered with noble woods on the east side of the harbour, form a a very picturesi|ue scene: the land is not good, from the tjuantity of stones, and the nature of the soil being sandy. The land in the townships of Flos and Medonte is excel- lent. Vespra is settling and contains some choice land — the whole of the beautiful country round lake Siracoe is well Worthy of inspection. Another route from Toronto is through the Pine Woods to Farr's Mills, and thence along Dundas street to Etobicoke, where a road turning to the right extends through the Gore of Toronto to the townships of Albion, Adjala, and Tecumseth, the road skirting on the western ends of the townships of Vaughan and King. Within the last two years, the improvements on this route are surprising, the country scarcely retaining one feature of its former appearance : the roads are excellent — the pine woods well cleared in some parts, and tastefully thinned out in others, — new houses of superior character and taste built, and new taverns erected. At Etobicoke, u road branches off to Nottawasaygo, by Mono Mills, through a beautiful country, but only at present partially cleared. Land of the finest quality and cheap. 'J he Gore of Toronto contains some large farms, and is in general fine land; —the river Humber and a few large 24 •HI" Mi V»« IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 12.8 m ■ 40 ■ 2.2 »» 13/, IHI IIS 1^ IE M |li It'-* ^ 6" — ► V '/ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRKT WBBSTIR.N.Y. 145*0 (716)872-4503 %^^ 4 ■s$ o ^°^\ ^ ^^V^ V ;\ H36 IJPPKR CANADA. (ireeks pass through it on their way to the lake. 'i'he township of Albion contains very excellent land, the greater part finely timbered : numerous streams, with good falls intersecting ; the township is rapidly settling ^nd very prosperous. There are several large farms in rapid cultivation, also saw-mills and grist-mills for ihc accommodation of the settlers. "Mackenzie, the most designing, the most tortuous, and the most leprous enemy of British institutions, that the fiends of disaffection and sedition ever inflicted on Upper Canada has been indignantly hurled from that station which he so long filled to his own shame and the dis- of his supporters." This man spoke thus of the settlers in the fine township of Albion. "One half of the settlers in Albion are English, and one half Irish ; there is not a more spirited township, for its size, I believe, on the con- tinent of North America. Thev love their native land: they pray for its prosperity, and that the downfall of its ^nemies and theirs may be hastened." I feel happy also to add my testimony to their merits. During the last e- lection, they almost to a man voted against this shallow and unceasing disturber of the public peace ; following the example of the citizens of Toronto, who, disgusted with his antics and tyranny when mayor of that city, kicked him out of the council at the following election : the brave boys of Albion in imitation of that exam- ple, contributed to the downfall of their enemv, and the enemy of the Province, by depriving him of a seat in the House of Assembly. There is also another road from Toronto, immediately skirting the lake, through the Credit Woods ; the road is excellent, the farms well cultivated, the view of the lake delightful, and it is the nearest route, by several miles, to Hfttnilton and the surroijinding country. .v , UPPER CANADA. 18T Along the whole line of road from Toronto to Nelson by Dundas street the country is well settled and exten- sively cleared : the road passes through the townships of Toronto, Trafalgar and Nelson,— there are many large mills and factories turned by the powerful streams which pass through these townships on their route to the Lake. On the Credit, a village has been built in a most pleasing situation, called Springfield, and but a few miles from it another called Streetsville, both containing many good houses, taverns, stores, and surrounded by large farms well cleared, and excellently cultivated. At the mouth of the Credit a harbour has been formed at which the steam boats touch, passing to and from the head of the lake. — Many village lots have been sold, some buildings erected and being the nearest port to Streetsville, Springfield, and the contiguous country, will probably become a place of consequence. From the Credit to Streetsville is 1 1 miles — thence 11 to Chinguacousy, 8 farther to Stanley's Mills, and then 11 to Albion, a delightful ride, through a fine agricultural district, and well worthy the observa- tion of fiersons intending to settle in the country. At the back of Dundas Street, are the townships of Es- quesing, Chinguacousy, Erin, Caledon.. and others but very partially settled, stretching towards Lake Huron. — Esquesing has some large farms on it, well cleared, — and churches, schools and a post-office :■ — the land is generally fine, but not well watered. Two villages have been recently laid out in this township, and from its nu- merous settlers, the y are likely to prove very useful. Land is still to be obtained cheap. It is a desirable location. Chinguacousy is almost a continued settlement — the lands are rather swampy, but the soil excellent. Caledon stands niuch more elevated, in some parts mountainous, and supposed to abound in coal. In this township are 'inlfil 188 UPPER CANADA. the fine falls of the River Credit, in the midst of a most romantic and lovely woodland country ; there is a superb and extensive view from one of the hills near the falls of the Credit, from which, lake Ontario, and the rich valley between it, may be seen ;-^there are also some beautiful natural meadows in this neighborhood. There are many small and lovely lakes in this township, surrounded by trees of the finest growth and beautiful varieties, in one, called the Green lake, a fish of exquisite flavor is caught, peculiar to that lake. Caledon is extremely heahhy and a most desirable location for an industrious person with small means. In Erin there are some extensive clearings, the soil is good, principally sandy loam, the timber is very supe- rior, but the roads are bad. The township of Whitby is well settled, and possesses a good harbour, on the lake, called Windsor, the land is of fine quality, and there are some beautiful farms, dispers- ed throughout the township, particularly on the shore of the lake. .' The township of Darlington is extensively settled, the land heavily timbered, but of first quality ; there are two villages in this township, one likely to be a large place, Bowmansville— there are several churches and schools in this township, The township in the rear is Cartwright : a river running from the Sturgeon lake, in the Newcastle District, is navigable to the centre of it, The township of Scarborough contains some fine land, and some very broken tracts — it is generally very high and hilly, and fronts the lake. The township of Pickering is well settling, and con- tains some fine land, and well watered- Mr. Fotbergill has an esctaqsive and most valuable museum of natural CWripsities, e»t his residence, in this township, M^hich hek^ V I a CPPER CA!«ADA. Jg^ collected wirh j?;rcat industry, and the most refined taste. He is a person olsuperior acquirements, and ardently de- voted to the pursuits of natural philosophy. This town- ship fronts on lake Ontario, and has the fine township of Oxbridge in the rear. A new village has been laid out, and is in course of forming, named Brougham, in com- pliment to the learned and illustrious individual of that name. MuLMUR— Beautifully watered by fine branches of the Nottawaysaga river, along the second branch of that river some excellent land to the north of it— to the south of it, the land is thrown into wave like ridgea apparently the work of an earthquake, and the summit of the mountaia north of the same branch, has evident marks of its being a volcanoe at a period not very remote, several craters are still to be seen, the prin- cipal one a pond of dead water strongly impregnated with sulphur. On lot number 23, in the same line, is a ridge of lime and free stone, which at a distance, appears like the remains of demolished fortifications. Where the shock split the rocks and removed the sides to some dist- ance, it looks like subterranean vaults, and several of the fissures are exceedingly dangerous — most of the sand stones are slightly vitrified ; from this ridge a fissure of about 3 rods wide continues towards tho west, until it is lost in a swamp m the adjoining township — it has all the appearance of the trough of a river, and along it are several round cavities, from ten to twenty rods wide, which are evidently points at which the electric fluid escaped to the clouds, as the earth thrown out of the cavities form a brim considerably higher than the surrounding land. Immense beds of marie are found throughout'the whole of thi;;, and the adjoining township of Melancthon, which also contains large quantities of excellent land, occasionally very hilly, the timber of the finest growth, and abundantly supplied with streams of living water. Amaranth — Well watered, some portions finely timbered, and worth cultivation — large swamps and many extensive beaver meadowt« Mono — Beautiful land — maple, birch, beech, elm and basswood — very 'extensive beaver dams — occasional swamps of fir, cedar, and hemlock— some beautiful streams — land undulating— fine valleys- cherry, butternut, and whitewood — many good sites for mills — Ist and 2nd concessions excellent land— watered by a branch of the Nottaway^- saga river, in rapid progress of settlement. ^ |^(sjii(lN<«-Tbere «re some admirable tracts of land, and between it li 190 VPPKR CANADA. and SunniJale, there runs a most lovely branch of the Nottnwaysaga river, clear, deep and rapid. Tecumseth — Maple, ehn, basswood and alder, interspersed with occasional cedar, fir and hemlock — well watered — some swamps — general char.icter of the land excellent — towards Luther very^swampy — Luther so much so as to oppose its successful survey. CoLLiNrtwooD — Some lofty mountains, fine streams, and good tim- ber — there is a deficiency of pine — land cheap and of fine quality, but yet very partially settled. St. Vincent — Like Collingwood, abounds in fine streams, lofty mountains, excellent timber, rich valleys, but is also without pine — there are at present but few settlors. THE NIAGARA DISTRICT, Independently of its being the longest settled in the Province, and containing some beautiful land, is peculiarly and admirably situated, lying between the two lakes, Erie and Ontario; bounded by the Ni- agara river, by which it is separated from the United States ; having the Wetland Canal passing through it, connecting the navigation of the two lakes together ; and a Rail Road, now in progress from Chippawa to Queenston, forming also a land communication between the lakes. COUNTY OF LINCOLN. TowDshipt, Cultivated anrea. Town of Niagara, 670 Niagara, township, Thoroid, Grimsby, Clinton, Bertie, Stamford, Gainsborough, Louth, Pelham, Crowland, Willoughby, Humberstony Wainfleet, Canborough, Caistor, Grantham, Uncultivated acres. 493 9,459 11,656 9,156 12,863 9,327 16,618 10,167 13,742 11,035 21,429 10,039 11,531 6,851 12.782 6,160 9,107 6,970 16,547 5,485 10,026 4,318 9,117 4,422 14,017 4,083 16,823 2,432 12,947 1,567 6,786 9,851 12,302 Assesfiment, i;43,900 33,378 31,335 29,012 39,406 34,913 39,358 20,516 22,330 22,512 14,269 12,846 15,239 13,254 9,231 5,820 42,323 Population. 2,116 2,067 1,985 907 1,779 2,163 2,464 1,543 1,227 1,459 935 833 1,231 692 504 446 3,297 fpPER CANADA. m COI/NTV OP »ALDIMAND. {laldiinaiidt 1,-J07J 11.417 8,661 693 tlaiitham, 2,763 9,766 1 1 ,622 552 Walpole, 2,666 11,145 9,905 683 Dunn, 367 3,096 1,544 201 Cayuga, 7,529 460 3,947 296 Moulton, 1,138 4,542 6,365 426 Horses, 5,721- -F our year old C >xen, 4,316— Milch Cows, ia,389— Horiied Cattle, ft [Jtn two to foui years old, 3,794. The village of Grimsby, in the township of that name^ is delightfully situated under the brow of a lofty mountain, beautifully wooded to its summit — the 40 mile creek runs through it, turning several mills, and falls into the lake immediately below it, where a harbour has been foimed at its mouth. There are two churches in the village, several pretty residences, some large fine orchards, exten- sive and well cleared farms surrounding it, good stores, and two taverns. A few miles farther towards Niagara, is another village, called Beamsville, also containing stores and taverns. A portion of the township is swampy, but the land generally good — soil clay and yellow loam. The 20 mile creek, which falls into the lake, in the town- ship of Louth, waters the back part of the township, and supplies several mills. The township of Louth has several mills turned by the 20 mile creek — it is tolerably settled, and contains some fine land and good timber : there arc salt-works near the junction of the roads which pass over the Short Hills to the Falls. The township of Grantham is better settled than any in the District, and contains abundance of excellent land, well watered, with the Wel- land canal running through it. There are many mills and manufactories in it. ST. CATHARINES. St. Catliarines has always flourished— its rapid growth ir a proof of this; but the exeitement which iha» prevailed; in regard to the puc- cluiaQ and saU of village lots, exhibits the prosperity of the plaee mm ■ JriW^ m 192 tPPER CANAbA. hew and iniportattt light. Within u ahurt time, u iiutubci uf lota imU changed hands at prices which some time ago, would have \mii\ coii- ■idered utterly chimerical. In edme inbtaiices, wo brlitMc, l^GO per foot in front, have been paid fur ordinary village lo!8 with no linur>es on them. Among other evidences of imprdvenient there are now two large mills ill progress of erection — a number ofnew dwelling housca and stores, arc building — a rail road between this plucc and iXiagam is in contemplation — and^ in short, a spirit of cnterprii^e in munireisdng itself in every department ol' business, that places !S(. Catharines in the front rank of improving plabes in the Province. It is situated not only well for business, being on the Welland canal, but is surrounded with fine land, the soil black and yellow loam, and presents a most pleasing va- riety of gentle hill and dale. The population of Saint Catherines is about 700 persons : — there are three church- es, several taverns, and a school. The Welland canal empties itself into lake Ontario, about three miles from St. Catherines, at Port Dalhousie. The pretty new village of St. Davids, in this township^ four miles from Queenston, is situated in most a delight- ful spot, embracing a great variety of picturesque and ro- mantic scenery, being on a small stream called the 4 mile Creek, from the undulating nature of the land — the extent of richly cultivated farms — the appearance of the peach and apple orchards — the numerous neat cottages, and the well selected sites for machinery. It was the residence of Sir Peregrine Maidand, a former Governor of the Pro- vince. The Town of Niagard, at Fort George, in the township of Niagara, is finely situated on the shore of the lake, at the mouth of the Niagara river, and opposite Youngstown^ and is generally a scene of great bustle and gaiety. It has three churches, several taverns, large wharves, a spa- cious dry dock and harbour, and some handsome edifices around it. The population is upwards of 2,000. Most t ai CPPER CANADA: 195 bf the sicam boats running on Lnlie Ontario stop at Nia- gara; tliis year, sonic have run to Qucenston and Lewis- fovvii. 'J he Transit, a bcnuiirnl boat perfurnis the voy- age between it and I'oronto dull v. The township of Sianiford is a b.-ailtiftd township,—' its soil and (iinbtir are cxcv^Mont ,• it is well watered: U bounded by the Niagara iJivcr atui the Chippawa Creek,' and contaius 3.10 houses, 4 villages, 8 churches, 10 schouls, SC taverns, 6 mills and rnauutactorics. There arc many excellent substantial buildings in this township — some of them handsome : the roads also arc very tolerable round this neighbourhood. A rail road is in progress from Chippawa to Queenston, connecting the St. Lawrence at Queenston, with the Chippawa Uiver, head of the VVell- and Canal and lake Erie ; and it is also in serious con- templation to carry a chain biid;;e across the St. Law- rence, below the falls of Niagara. The great wonder of this township, and the world, are the celebrated falls, where the mighty mass of the concentrated waters of lakes! Erie, St. Clair, Huron, Michigan, and Superior, rush down a j)recipice of ^6» feet into a river three quarters i)f amilein width, the estimated quantity of water paSiS- ing over it in a minute being 1 13,510,000 gallons. Thd description of these falls have been often given that it ^'onld be presumptuous to attempt a laboured description of them, sulfice it to say, that the most brilliant imagina- tion can form no idea of the grandeur of the scene. Thef following description by a gentleman who recently visit- ed them is in conjplete consonance with my impressions : *'I stood by Niagara. The grandest irnagn of Power that nature has produced was before me. Of Power, t say, for with that are assoeiated all my ideas of the sub- iiniity of Niagara. It is the volume of waters that it pours/ hnd not the height from which they fall— it Js the ac6t-. 2B ■ Ni tM tr^ta €ANAi>i. mulation of the mighty mass, and not the position ii# which accident has placed it, that strikes and over- whelnHiyoti — it is the fact of wliole oceans being brought before the eye at one glance, and not the circumstance of their changing their level, tliat gives its majestic character to this stuf>endous scene. It is to tlie imuge of Almighty Power —it is to the type of Htm who holdeth the waters in the hollow of his hand, that the soul bmvs in humility or lifts itself in sublimated awe. Here is the spot of all others up«vn the broad earth — and I have travelled it widely — where the nothingness of human pride eome» home upon the heart : where its hopes and its struggles — its aspirations after good and its conflicts against evil— ^ its dreams of distinction and its repinings at obscurity—* Its hard wrestlings with the doom to which it is fated, sink into^their native insignificance, whenr compared with the operations of the immortal Mind that is for ever develop^ ing itself around us." The appearance of the falls, in^ the winter months, i* singularly striking; embodied icicles like rocks ^ pendent from the highest overhanging brink, the large mass of Waters falling into a kind of grotto, created by accumu- lation of immense icicles fronvthe foam of the waterfall, and partly covered with snow : — the magnitude of the stream, the Iveight of the fall, the tremendous roar^ and splendid difiusion of the spray, renders it a very interest- ing scene. The following extracts from the Album kept at the Falls, may perhaps be amusing : they show with what different ideas the grandeur and sublimity of this scene is expressed — or rather what a fall there is from the sublime lo the ridiculous. Beautiful, beautiful, Niagara ! others may tell of tby angry watera* «r ftel the avbltiniQr of tby acene t but to me thou art aurpaaaibgly VrPER CANADA. 199 %>eautirttl, Slid of thy various yet ceaseless beauty alone can 1 think or «peak. Majesty and delicacy compose thy robe of loveliness. Won* derful creation of Jod, flow on in thy undecaying magnificence, and io other souls be thou the type of that infinite beauty which is * O reat, glorious, grand and indescribable ! A nd fain would measure thee with pigmy span t **R efrain,** each oi^'ect cries— -«*Lay down thy f«d, A nd look thro' Nature, up to Nature's God." ' August 18» 1834. The watera of Niagara, 'Tis wondrous how they go, A tumbling from the rock above, Dowa to the rock* beldw. ' ♦ ».' s* ; ■■( ■a. /,. ]|96j UPPER CilfADA. They've run f his way, tliit many • <|af. And now to shift the tcf^ne, I would Hui,'ge8t,ju«f for a change, -• To have them run up •treara. & P. Q. Niagarn ! to thee My ««pec:ccle8 I (urn I I fee (hy wutcra hoil, As if nil .... did hum, * ' • And Satan*» imp«i, with ardour hot, ' ^ere thrusting wood beneath the pot. O what a denfninj noiaa i ThytorturM waters nial- The thunders of thy voico ' - .^ Kept me all night awake : 1 could but hear the lumheringsouttd. When all were sunk in sleep profound. And then what plouds of apraj Bedim my w^nkenM siu^ht ; And then, in light of Hoy, Brin^ rainbows to my sight : Well mi?ht poor Snip thus make hh note^-- **4i\ater!?. is often one of miny;ieil surprise sintl disappointment While I camiot r-redii this "f any but tb« n»<>st superficial observers, I may rem; rK tha? my 'fust in»pr»'Hsii>ns' of the Fsiils were decidedly of that character. As we rus!ied tbrc. — Who knows but it may be profan* led by cotton factories t . I do not know who first attempted to give an idea of the form of the caCaraci by comparing it to a horse-shoe ; but I should be disposed to i^paml with it could I think of any thing else more appropriate. The leentre ofthe fait (which, it i.s well known, is worn back or indented nwioy feet farther than the wings,) is very nearly straight acro88,there* •a nowise resemMing the front of a horse-shoe. The wing on the A* mericanside runs angularly thence to the adjacent point of Goat Island — bat tfaaton the British side is much shorter, and is very nearly at fight angles with the centre. Both of the wings, as woti as that por* Cion ofthe fall ou the American side of the island, exhibit the ordinary appearance of of a cascade — agitated, broken, and almost snow-white from the instant of overleaping the precipice; but so great is the vol* nme of water on the central sheet that the water retains the green hu6 pf I^akeErie vnd the deep channel ofthe river not only on thd fdrfl t/fthe precipice, but even afler it has taken the irrevocable plunge. (I tfnay here state, what some of the old school may not have remarked or may have forgotten, that the little island in the middle of the fiiU» ftpoken of by Goldomith, has no longer an existence.) The great nragnitude and extent of the fall, with the perfect an^ harmonious grandeur of every thing connected with it diminishes th« Imposing eft' ct of the cataract, so far as its height alone' is regarded, i doubt that a majority of its visiters, throwing aside all prior knowledge would adjudge the actual descent from the surface of the water above io that below at more than fifty feet. It is only when you have descend* cd by the stair-case some two hundred steps, and find yourself atiJl Some fifty feet above the level of the basin, thatyou obtain aa adequate Mea of (lie^ vast height of the Mh I shall not soon forget the seBsations I experienced during my viai* culated to afford any adequate protection. I looked to the column of falling water, which visiters of the requisite nerve readily dash through' in their oil cloth dresses, preceded by a guide, and thence pass dry- shod between tjje water and the rock nearly to the centre of the fail-* but the sun was not visible, and without it the darkness in that suba* queous domain must be resolvable by wine measure. The prospectif ahead, therefore, presenting nothing but wind and water, both of which' were sufficiently abundant on this side the curtain, I halted, protected my eyes as well as might be from the dashing storm for one long and earnest gaze at the majestic column before and almost directly above mef and then turned to retrace my steps, pretty thoroughly drenched end quite resigned to a postponenoem of ray researches under the F$Al# •fNiadare to another opportunity. . - -■ ^ feod bptzn CANAt^/ti SUSPENSION BRIDGE. The projected work over the Niagara, is to be a chain euspensfoi^ bridge, and will be a greater work of the kind, Ijy far, than any other in the world. It has been euppoaedj by some, that these suspension. br pendant bridges, were a modern invention ; but they were known aeJ early as the time of Scamozzi, the great architect of Venice. Indeed iheir use has been of great antiquity in mountainous countries; and the principle was well u.iderstood hy the $butli American Indians, aai the conquerors discovered by their bridges, which were constructed df ropes. The most remarkable bridge of the kind in existence, h that over the Menai Strait, between the isle of Anglesa and Cfernarvori- •hire, in Wales—completed in 1S25. <-The road way is one hundred feet above the surface of the water at high tide. The opening between the points of suspension is five hundred and sixty feet. The platform is thirty feet in breadtlu The whole is suspended from four lines of strong iron cabled by perpendicular iron rods five feet apart. The ca- bles pass over rollers on the tops of pillars, and fixed to iron frameii tinder ground, which are kept down hy masonry. The weight of thai whole bridge, between the points of suspension, is four hundred and «ighly-nine tons." There are eevernl bridges of this kind in the United Statext, though none of tqual dimcntiions to that just described. One of these crosses the Merrimack, at New bury port. It is a curve, whose cord measures two hundred and fourty- four feet. There is another over the Brandyw ne, at Wilmington, and two or more over the Mo- nongahela, at and near Browni«ville. One of these forms rii inverted ■uspended arch, with a cord oforre hundred and twelve feet. It is this latter form of bidge which it is proposed to suspend over the dark and troubled gulf of the Niagara at Lewislon. The pillars or towers, as points of support, are to be erected on the iiigh banks on either side of the river, over which pillars the chains are to pnss, to be ottached at each extrennty of the rocks, or massive pieces of iron, to be secured firnilyunder ground, if the rocks cannot be used for the pur- pose of safely. The banks at Lewislon and Q,urenston, where tho bridge is to be located, are 125 feet in height. There are two locations in view, however, and the height of the tuwers, and length of chain, will depend upon the selection. In the one case, should the towers be erected from the base of the banks, at the water's edge, they must be carried up (o the height of 200 feet, in which case the suspension chains trill be only 600 feet in length, but should the other site be chosen, and Ibe towers erected upon the banks, they will require a height of but 90^ *r 100 feet, extending the cord of the archy however to lyOOO feet. M UPPER CANADA. 261 thither case, th« inverted arch, at the lowest point, will be 120 feet above the stream. Both towers will be massive and firmly built upon a basd df freestone. The flooring or main body of the bridge will be sustain- ed by strong iron chains, or rods, from one point of support to the other. ♦'The great advantage of suspension bridges, consists in their stability bfequilibrum, in consequence of which a smaller amount of materrals is necessary for their construction than for that of any other bridge. If a suspension bridge be shaken, or thrown out ofequilibrumi it returns by its weight to its proper place, whereas the reverse hap- pens in bridges which are built above the level of their supporters." The weight of the suspending chains will be three hundred and thirty-six tons, composed iipon the transverse section of thirty-two feeparat6 bars df iron—each Uuk riine feet nine inches in length, by one to three inches width and depth — equal to ninety-six solid inches of iron. The lateral adhesion of these united bars will sustain a force of 2400 tons. Reduce this weight one-third, (to 160 tons) and we have the n^aximum Ptrerigth of the united cables. The suspension rods, eight hundred in number, and one inch squarei will sustain a weight equal to 6000 tons, including their own weights Two estimates of the work have been proposed. The first and most extensive contemplates the erection of towers from the surface of the river, having eight main cables as a suspending power, with a road way of 29 feet, to be divided into two carriage ways, of 12 feet each, and having a foot way of five feet in the centre. Upon this plan the cost is estimated at $131,511,40. By the second estimate the work can b6 built for 193,511,40. The subscription books for the stock of this noble enterprise, arrf how open at Faulkner's Western hotel, Courtland-street, and will re- main open for some days to come, under the direction of A. S. Tyron, Esq of Lewiston. As to the value of the stock we entertain not a doubt. There is already much crossing of the river at Lewiston, not- withstanding the difficulties of the ferry; and without regard to other improvements in progress or in prospect, and the increase of popula- tion, the travelling would be centupled from the day the work is com- pleted. But there are other causes which must operate to render the stock productive. The falls, as the greatest objects of interest in the natural world, will be always visited by thousands of travellers for plea- sure .every season— these thousands increasing With the increase of population in a geometrical ratio — and every such visitor will most assuredly cross the great pendant bridge, as a subject of curiosity, if for nothing else. But this is not all. Rail roads are now under coif 26 202 VrPER CAIVADA. tract from Lockport to the falls, and alio from Buffalo to the ititnt point. A charter has likewise been granted for a rail road from Lew-^ iston, to intersect that of Lockport* This work will be undertaken without ^elay» so that by another year^ every possible facility for travelling to the bridge, will have been opened even before its comple- tion. Stone of the best and most durable qualities will be found at the bases of the towers. Lime may be prepared upon the spot, and sand procured within a short distance, by water communication. What a station will not a structure like the one in prospect afford, for the lover of the sublime and terrible to stand and meditate at lei- sure upon the works of the Great Architect of the Universe I Sus- pended as it were midway in air, between the high and precipitous banks forming the deep gulf through which the vast column of the Ni« figara sweeps maddening onward, as if not yet recovered from the shock and terror of its mighty fall a few miles above, the imaginative spectator, poised thus upon the airy arch, might almost doubt whether the scene was one of sublime reality, or not rather one of those dreamt and terrible illusions which, in the dark ages of superstition, would have been attributed to the spells of some malignant enchanter. The village of Chippavva, two miles above the falls, and ten miles from Queenston, on both sides of the Well-* and River at its mouth, is of ancient date. ••Sincelast year upwards of 30 new buildings have been erected, and at least 50 more are expected tobebuiltduringthepresentseason. The rail road to Clueenston is in a forward state, so that the facilitiee for travelling by this route will, in a short time be greatly increased.-— The daily communication with Buffalo by steam boats is also of great importance to the place. We mention the following list of stores, &c., in the village. There are 6 general Merchants' stores; 3 Forwarding do.; 5 Grocery do.; 4 Taverns; 1 Temperance House; 2 Bakehouses; 3 Blacksmith'e shops ; 1 Gunsmith's do.; 2 Cabinet Maker's do.; 2 Coach and Wag- gon do.; a number of Joiner's do.; 2Tin and Copper Smiths' do.; 4 Shoemaker's' do.; 3 Tailors' do.; 1 Watchmaker's do.; 1 Hatter's do. 3 Steam Grist Mills.; 2 Steam Saw Mills ie course of erection ; 2 Dis- tilleries; 2 Foundries, one on a large scale; 1 Attorney's Office; 1 Post Office; 1 Printing Office ; an English Church and a Methodist meeting house. The population of the place is about 400. Opposite Lewiston in the United States stands Queens* UPPER CANADA. 205 ton, in the township of Niagara, on the Canadian fron- tier, more remarkable for the splendid monument, a state- ly column on the brow of the eminence, overlooking a vast extent of country on both sides of the Niagara, erect- ed to the memory of Sir Isaac Brock, paying a merited tribute to his valor and good conduct, than for the extent or neatness of the village. The country from Niagara ta the Falls, a distance of eight miles, is well cleared ; there are several large farms with excellent houses on them^ and orchards containing the choicest kinds of peaches, pears, apples and plums. In the summer months stage*^ are continually running between Niagara and the Falls — Queenston stands nearly semi-distant between them. — From Queenston there is a coach to Hamilton, by St. Catherines, through a thickly settled and fertile country. Between the Falls, and St. Catherines, there is a district of country called the Short Hills, they are very steep, and on the farm formerly belonging to Mr. Henn, and lately purchased by Government,the two inland seas, lakes Erie and Ontario can be seen ; the view is most extensive, comprehending these two magnificent lakes, the line of the falls with its ever rising mists, the town of Niagara,- with its steam-boats, schooners, docks, houses, wharves, churches, forts, the lofty and towering monument of Sir Isaac Brock, and a vast extent of cultivated and wood- land country, intersected by streams, broken by hills, and diversified by plains. A more splendid scenejcan scarcely be conceived. Sir Isaac Brock's memory is held in the profoundest veneration by the Canadians, his bravery, courtesy, gallant bearing, kindness, and indefatigable at- tention to the troops he commanded, procured him their utmost confidence and affection. At a dinner which took place at Hamilton on the 14th of October, 1833, to commemorate the anniversary of the battle of Qucenetou* 204 i;<*P£R €A::^ADA. p Canadian soldier, who was wounded in that engage, ment, sent in the following elegy to S'lv Isaac Brock's niemory. I give it not so much for its merit, as a proof of the fervour and intensity of their regard to the memory pf their departed hero. You British subjects passing by Q,ueenston*s proud Monument, cast youreyot For there entoml)ed within that rock Lies the sacred dust of Sir Isaac Brock, Also the dust of McDonald the brave Who shared his fate, and shares hia grave : Theinvaders of Canada to repel, They bravely fought and gloriously fell. This fertile country from these heights view rounc| Then let a grateful teardrop down, For since the conqjuest of Ciuebec was told. When Briton mourned for valiant Wolfe of old, Canada had ne'er such reason to complain As when her gallant patriarch, Brock was slain. The verse, though rude and unharmonious is charac- teristic of the general feeling cf Upper Canadians towards General Brock. The Canadian Militia during the war between Great Britain and the United States, displayed the most enthusiastic zeal in defence of British suprema- cy ; they arose to defend their country and their homes, nor did thev ever shrink from the contest whilst there was a shadow of success, and indeed, without exagger- ation, it may be said, they were mainly instrumental in securing it to the British Crown. They had always ta contend against a much larger force, but were neverlhe- Jess generally successful. The river VVelland enters the Niagara at the village of Chippawa : it gives name to the canal, which connects the navigation ol the two great Lakes, Erie and Ontario, \l^ its passsage roun^ thQ Niagarc^ Falls. The length of hi UPPER CANADA. 20& th«s canal is about Ibrfy miles, conimcncing at Port Dal- liousie ill Luke Ontario, and ending at Port Colborne, or Gravelly Bay, in Lake Erie. It adinits vessels of 123 tons burthen. A work of such immense and obvious u- tility should have been finished like the Rideau Canal, instead of which the route was injudiciously chosen, through the pesdiential swamps of Wainfleet, and the locks constructed of wood instead of stone. The conse- quence has been, that instead of proving, as it must have done, under more auspicious circumstances, a source of wealth, it has been constantly undergoing repairs, which have swallowed up all its tolls. Nevertheless great prais6 is due to its enterprising projector Mr. Merritt, who will yet succeed in establishing its success, especially if he is fortunate enough to be aided by a few more of the blast- ings, of that incorrigible slanderer, and fabricator of false- hoods, the demagogue Mackenzie. *'l have no means of ascertaining what quantity of mer- chandize passed through Oswego to Upper Canada during the last year, neither can I tell the amount of furniture which was sent to the upper lakes ; but the merchandize, including salt shipped from that port through the VVelland Canal destined to the above States, amounted to 39,798,- 290 lbs." "The village of Thorold, Niagara District, adjoins the Welland Canal on the west and is seen from it, as is Lake Ontario, which is distant about eight miles. The situa- tion is most beautiful and salubrious, and from the flour- ishing state of the village, and its superior water privile- ges, must rapidly increase in value. In the village, there are two flouring mills, five saw mills, a carding and fulling mill, several stores, manufactories, mechanics, &c. It is surrounded by the most respectable villages in the District, being distant from Niagara 12 miles, Queenston i\W'' i 206 UPPER CANADA. 7, St. Davids 5, St. Catharines 4, Allanborough 4, Port Robinson 6, Stamford 6, Drurarnondvillc 7, Ciiippawa 10> and the Falls 8." The township of Clinton fronts lake Ontario, possess- ing a fine soil of rich yellow and black loam — near the centre of the township the land is hilly, supposed to con- tain lead mines. Mr. John Lee, of Toronto, petitioned that the Parliament might assist him in working the mine. He set forth that he had lately discovered a valuable mine of lead ore in the township of Clinton, and had, at his own expense, commenced mining operations, and succeeded In obtaining some fine specimens of lead ore, at a short distance below the surface, and had no doubt that the niain body of the ore might be easily got at without much trouble or expense. He obtained a grant from the Go- vernment of the privilege of working the mine, and he prayed that a sum of money might be vested in the hands of Commissioners to enable him, in conjunction with his own resources, to bring the mine into successful opera- tion, the money to be repaid in five years. In this town- ship is a small cave from whence a spring issues, in which during summer a quantity of ice is formed, and which in winter is quite free from ice. The thirty mile creek runs through the township, but it is indifferently watered. **]n the township of Clinton, in the Niagara Diiitrict, there is a small cavern in the side of the mountain, from the inner rocks of which ooze pmall quantities of water. Two gentlemen, on whom I can rely, tell me thatth^ water freezes in summer and dissolves in winter ; that as the weather grows cold in autumn and winter, the ice melts away, but asthespriog opens it begins to freeze, and forms large icicles, so that by harvest, they may be conveniently used to make ice-water. We would be glad if some scientific person would give us a solution of this ningular phenomenon. I think geologists are of opinion, that there are large bodies of nitre in the bowels of the earth, but how this can pro« ducc so singular an effect is more than I can tell. If it could be made to appear that the water in this cavern, qr that connected with it, wm ttpfiR CANADA. 1M higher in printer than summer, then I should think that the air might produce the effect by passing over large bodies of nitre, in those sub- terraneous passages wh ich at other seasons of the year are filled with water. But I am not naturalist enough, neither am I geologist enough to determine the correctness of the supposition I have made." FORT ERIE. At the head of the Niagara river, and 16 miles from Chippawa, is Fort Erie, a small village situate on a pretty slope, surmounted by a fort, likely however to become a place of great importance from its contiguity to Black Rock and Buffalo, but more especially as it will be the termination of the great rail road, extending along the north shore of lake Erie from Sandwich, passing in line with the Talbot road, through the rich and flourishing Districts of London and the West. Fort Erie is in the township of Bertie. DtJNNVILLE Is situated on the north bank of the Grand River, five miles from the entrance of the same into Lake Erie. In 1829 the Wetland Canal Company constructed a dam across the river at this place for the pur* pose of raising the water to feed the canal on the highest summit level — the construction of this work was the signal for the commenceraeat of a village. In the 8ame|year, Oliver Phelps, Esq., now of St. Ca- tharines, laid out the plot for the town, and shortly thereafter the ereo tion of buildings commenced. Since that time the town has gradually increased until it has arrived to its present importance. Flourishio^ like a "green bay tree," and enjoying the advantages and blessings oi agriculture, commerce and manufactures, Dunnville now bids fair to be one of our first Provincial towns. There are now in the town, 7 merchant shops, 2 groceries, a post-office, a school-house, 5 public houses, 1 grist-mill, 2 blacksmiths, 3 resident physicians, 3 saw-mil!«, 1 clothifig establishment, 1 bakery, ^ tailors''sbops, 2 shoemakers, 1 waggon maker,*! attorney, and 1 magistrate. About 100 buildings and between 3 and 400 inhabitants. The location of the town speaks volumes for its future greatness and importance;— situated as it is on the Grand River, Welland Canal and Lake Erie, it bids fair to be a great commercial emporium;— surround- ed at it is by a rich prolific^country, whoso surface,!* becoming yearly n !lto8 tPPI.n CANADA. more cuUiYated, it promUcs itaelf a threat rnnny Mcvnsinjs from agri- culture; favored as it also is with countless liydiiuilic piivilegCH, it hug a certain prospect of being ilie Maiuhester of Upper Canada. In consequence of the great fall of water at this place, we can confi- dently assert that for manufacturing facilities, it far exceeds any town, In the country; — for here the whole of the Grand River, the largest in the Province, half a mile in width and 18 or 20 feet in depth can be brought to bear upon machinery by means of side cuts. Immediately below the dam the river is somewhat contracted, hut very deep, and flows on in'peace and tranquility to mingle with the waters of Lake Erie five miles below. At the mouth of the stream th^reisyet the re- mains of the naval statiori, erected there during the last war^ The sailors and marines as also the arms and ammunition haVe been long since removed and all that remains to tell the visitor where the huge leviathans of the lake spread their canvass to the breeze, or where the chivalry of Canada with firm resolve rallied around the banner of old England, are a few old dilapidated buildings and barracks whitened and bleached with the storms, and reeking in every passing gale, fit representatives of the destruction for which they were intended; — and being convincing evidence of the progress of time, and the final disso- lution of all things terrestrial. The bar in the mouth of the River is sufficiently deep to admit the largest vessel on the Lake to pass and proceed directly up to Dunnville. This is a remarkably fine harbor^ and vessels in the greatest storms have entered with the utmost safety. The tract of land between Dunnville and the Lake has until of late belonged to the Six Nations,, and consequently are not improved to a great extent, but since their sale by the Government, they are rapidly advancing in cultivation. There is also an excellent fishery at Dunn- ville; — while there we saw fish in great numbers drawn to the shores in seines* We saw with pleasure that two steamers are in progress of comple-' tion, intended for thenavigrtion of our lioble river, and sincerely hope, with the blessings of Providence, to have them gladden the view with their daily visits to our town. One of them, the Sir Walter Scott, has been upon the river during the past season, but owing to some cause not known to us, she proved very inefficient. She is now undergoing a thorough overhauling, and will, we trust, be able to commence her trips from Dunville to Brantford so soon as the improvements on the river are completed. The other Steamer, the Dunnville, is being built by Andrew Thomp" •on, Esq. and bids fair to be the *4ion of our waters." Our only feat i UPPCK CAfVADA. 209 is that Iie^ size will not permit her to navigate the Grand River, for al- though a vessel of almost any size may pass in the eentte of the stream, yet tile necessary contraction of the excavation and lobks would prevent them passing the works of the navigation. The great frontier rail roiul, should it he constructed, would past through Dunnville, and cross the Grand River on the dam nt that place: But as the past and present years hnve been noted for **bubble pro- jects," we are doubtful as to the Hnul issue of this work. The central locution of Dunnville is auother convincing evidence of its future greatness. There are no less than six principal roads cen- tering to this place. The lOuds fiuin Rainhatn, Walpole and Port Do- ver, the mouth of the river, Cayugn, Indiana, York and Caledonia, CanbOrough and Sinithvillc, and the Fort Erie and Niagara road. After indulging in the foregoing observations, we see no reason why Duuville should not be one of our iirst Provincial towns. CAYUGA. On the 30th of April, 1835, I rode to see the new set- liement of Cayuga, and was gratified to find that along the whole line of road, new settlements were fortning, large clearing^ being made, some^ of the best log houses 1 had seen in the country erected, surrounded tvith small, biit neat gardens, clearly indicating that the settlers were Europeans. At the point where you first strike the! Grand River, a large tavern has been built, and lots been Sold for the purpose of making a village. The ride along the banks of this river, to Cayuga, a distance of sixteen miles, is one of the most chat-ming in the Province. The i-otid runs parallel with and close by the river ; on both sides the country is well cleared and admirably cultivat- ed. Some trees of a majestic growth are left overhang- ing the stream, and the lovely islands, interspersed throughout the river, present an appearance of singular beauty. The foilage had attained about two thirds of its full developement, and was precisely in that stage of ten- der, yellowish verdure, when Spring, in my view, wertr^ her most beautiful face. Nothing could exceed the bril' 27 '"'M i*(1« 210 UI'PKtt CAX\tiA. liancy of the green carpet on the islands in ihc rivrr, n\u\ of some of the fields on its banks; nor have I any uhtre else seen such a charming border of treis and grass, as skirted the stream for several miles. Between these love- ly shores the river rolled iull to its brim,— smooth, un- broken, apparently a vast canal:— its still, soft waters moving on as calm as a mirror, forming a striking con- trast with the deep, dark, sonibre forest of pines which here and there had been left untouched to the water's edge. The whole tract of land, on both sides of the river, six miles deep, belonged to the Indians, but owing to the indefatigable exertions of Sir John Colborne he induced them to make a surrender of an extensive and fertile por- tion now called the townships of Cayuga and Dunn, 14 miles in length from the mouth of the river. The banks of this river form the Reserve of the Six Nations, extend- ing fifty miles from Lake Erie to Brantford ; — a portion of these lands were sold to an ancient and respectable fa- mily in the Province, named Nelles, and the settlement was called after them. The road to Cayuga passes thro' this settlement, and satisfactorily accounts for the extent of richly cultivated country, without stumps to be seen on the banks of the river. A large village called York, hav- ing the advantage of a post-oftice, has been formed, with- in these three years, and is augmenting rapidly; —it has mills, several large stores, taverns, a school, and carries on already a considerable trade. Between it and the vil- lage of Cayuga, is another village called Indiana, still the residence of many Indians, but having some large houses and stores in it belonging to Europeans. Several neat residences have been erected in favorable positions on the banks of this lovely river, particularly one, belonging to Mr. Martin ofGalway, son of the amiable, but eccentric philanthiopist, of that name. , UPFCR CANADA. 211 In every instance when these fine lands have been brought into market, it has been follou'cd by the clearing and culture of the soil, by the conversion of cabins into roitages, of hamlets into villages, of villages into towns, and of towns into cities ; by the encouragement of indus- try and trade ; by |>ul)lic order and social strength.— JSince that time I have been many times to Cayuga, and have been higMy gratified at the rapidity of its settlement. The crops last year, as well as the present, were particu- larly luxuriant along the whole route of the river. Great quantities of wild fruit grow along the banks of this inter- esting river, particularly the grape, whose noble vines, were almost borne down by the weight of the immense clusters of fruit hanging pendent from them. Several species of thorn, and prickly ash, adorn the banks, and the finest varieties of wild honey-suckle 1 ever beheld; there are also abundance of that beautiful parastical plant entwining round the trees, elegantly decorated with or- ange coloured berries, termed the celesiina scandens. — This country must be well adapted for fruit ; there is ac- tually a •superabundance of raspberries, strawberries, plums, and apples growing in the wild state. Along the flats of the Grand River, very heavy crops of Indian corn and barley are raised, and I saw several large fields of wheat of the most promising aspect. The quarries of gypsum or plaister of Paris seem inexhaustible and sever- al mills for grinding it, are in active operation along it» course. 1 he Niagara District returns six Members to tlic House of Assembly. ii if». ■'J. 213 ' DPPER C.VNADA. THE GOKE DISTRICT. Is divided into the two Counties of llahon and Wenuvorth. COUNTY OP HALTOIV. Cultlvatefl acres. UnouUivaleJ acres Townships. Dumfries, 35,690 West Flamboro'CO.1,061 Nelson, 10,350 Waterloo, 17,771 Woolwich, 3,013 Erin, 2,695 Garafrgxa, 263 Beverly, 6,208 Wilmot, 5,231 Trafalgar, 16,0S3 Esquesing, 10,749 East Flamboro' 4,325 Guelph, 5,962 Puslinch, 1,914 Nichol, 836 Nassageweya, 2,136 Eramosa, 2,548 <,,.. , 72,300 .< 12,572 26,822 51,666 13,557 21,608 4,688 27,343 23,373 40,331 38,204 12,612 9,623 28,556 25,716 14,678 Aefeesmnnt, 59,078 27,77Q 32,003 55,565 10,425 10,010 1 ,655 18,782 16,492 50,254 29,788 13,200 23,559 10,299 7,414 8,170 8,374 Popiitntion. 4.306 2,093 2,2;>i 2,791 506 96:i 107 1,477 1,10* 3,898 2,206 867 2,45^ 1,017 397 756 631 17,982 19,946 41,723 24,819 12,255 34,338 6,592 2,155 1,397 2,664 1,808 741 3,007 504 17,782 COUNTY OP WE NT WORTH. Town of Hamilton, 841 1,357 Barton, 6,576 7,723 Ancaster, 14,732 23,774 Salifleet, 8,307 15,626 Glanford, 4,788 10,243 Grand River Tract, 12,395 22,060. Binbrook, 2,225 9,504 For 1836, Dumfiies is assessed at £70,129 5 — the population has also increased to 5,031, and the other townships in the same ratio. Horses, 5,2S7--Four year old Oxen, 6,969— Milch Cows, 12,305— T^vo year old Horned Cattle, 5,242. HAMILTON. There are few places in North America that have in- creased more rapidly, or stand in a more beautiful and ad- vantageous situation than the town of Hamilton. In the summer of 1833, my constant evening's walk was from Mr. Burley's tavern, to the Lake shore, distant about a mile — there were, then, but two houses between them, now it is one continued street, intersected by side streets, l^ranching in both directions. The Main-street of Ham- ilton IS of noble width, and has been constantly improving til VrPER CANADA. 213 \)y the erection of spacious brick buildings, and must be- come, ere long, a splendid one. The court-iiouse is a fine stone building, at present unenclosed, but if the im- provements in contemplation, relative to the gaol, should be carried into efifect, it will render it an object of greater beauty and more utility. Several excellent houses have been erected — a Catholic, and an Episcopal church are la course of building — two noble taverns, both fronting the lake, are completed — a large stone brewery on the lake shore is in operation, perhaps the best in the District, and the splendid mansion of A N. McNab, Esq. of which ihe frontispiece conveys but a very imperfect impression, and commanding the entire view of the lake, is unequalled in the Province. It is a most extensive building, beauti- fully designed, and elegantly finished; it is called Dun- DURN, from a place of that name in Scotland, belonging to the ancestors of Mr. McNab. To the indefatigable exertions of this able, spirited and enterprising gentleman^ Hamilton is infinitely indebted. Both in, and out of Par- liament, his exertions have been unceasing in the promo- tion of its welfare, audit must prove a source of the high- est gratification to him, to behold Hamilton, in the esta- blishment of which he has been so actively engaged, as- sume an importance and celebrity, not inferior to any town of the same standing in America. On the mountain overhanging Hamilton, are two fine stone mansions, be- longing to J. M. Whyte, and Scott Burn, Esqs. the former surrounded by an excellent and extensive park fence, and both embracing most comprehensive views of the lake, Burlington canal, Toronto harbour, and a splendid wood- land valley immediately beneath them. PROSPERITY OF THE TOWN OP HAMILTON. The population of this Town when taken, as we learn from the town araewsor* 1834, in September, was 2101 j and when taken in the yea^ H' ;,;3 i!ii»«» '0i \M m 214 CPPER CAPfA&A. lollowing, in May, 1835, it was 2600, showing an increase of 500 in seven montiis — the population is now probably about 3,000. The cen* BUS in 1833, as taken by the township assessor, was about 1,400. The amount of the town revenue in 1834 was, including Police taxes £270, and the expenditure nearly the same. The amount of the town revenue in 1835, is, including the Police taxes, £480 or thereabouts, showing a very great increase in the wealth and prosperity of this town. It is probable more buildings will be put np in the ensuing summer than has ever before been put up in the town. Several of our most opulent merchants are making preparations to erect large brick build- ings -in King-street. The contractors are taking advantage of the sleighing, by removing the old frames of houses to clear the lots for more permanent buildings. The town of Hamilton is the District town, at which the Assizes and Quarter Sessions are held : it returns a member to Parliament. Hamilton has a literary society, at which scientific, philosophical, and political questions are discussed ; the debates are well sustained, and it will doubtless prove an excellent school for training young barristers in the habit of extemporaneous speaking. Mr. Cattermole, the author of a work on emigration, lives in this town. 1 have ever been accustomed to speak of both men and things, as I fec^l, and being fully persuaded that Mr. Cattermole was a faithful friend to this Province, in his efforts to further emigration, 1 regret and am surprised that his claims to its consideration have been altogether and most unaccountably overlooked. A medical society has been also formed, and 1 trust the time is not distant when it '-^ill have a public hospital. The Gore Bank, which has been chartered, is now established at Hamilton, and must prove of great advantage in promoting its still further improvement. From time to time it has been in agitation to connect Hamilton with Lake Erie by Rail Road, forming the nearest and quickest connecting link between the two lakes, the proposed route was to Fori tPPEn CANADA, 21 J Dover on the bhores of Lake Erie, its practicability and utility may be seen by the engineer's report. But could it be possible to carry a rail road to Brantford, to conned the ijondon and Western Districts with Lake Ontaeio, it would be the route both for goods and passengers from the extensive territory of Michigan and the Western states. The excitement it has produced, and the arguments by which respective routes are sustained, will be seen by re- ference to the Appendix. PRICES CURRENT IN UPPER CANADA. Hamilton, Feb. 20, 1836. Wheal, per 60 11>8. 7s Flour, per 100 lbs. fS Oats, per bushel, 2s 6d Beef, per cwt. $5 a $5 Pork, per cwt. $4 a $5 Butter, per ly. Is a Is 4d % New York Current. '. Cobourg, Feb. 23, ^836. Wheat, per 60 lbs. 3s 9d a 4s 3d Flour, supertiue, per bat rel 22s 6d Do, fine do 20s a 21s 3d Oats, per bushel Is a Is 3d Peas, do. 2s 5d Beef, per cwt. 22s 6d Butler, per lb. 7d a 9d Fork, fresh, per 100 lbs. 22 6d a 25s Halifax Carrency. Wheat, per 60 lbs. Flour, Fine, per brl. Oats, per bushel Beef, per cwt. Pork, fresh, per 100 lbs. Butter, per lb. Kingston, Feb. 23, 1836. 4s 3d a 4s 6d 25s a 27s 6d Is 3d alsOd 17s 6d a 20b 25s a 27s 6d 7da8d Halifax Currency. As a great proof of the great trade vi^hich Hamilton carries on, through the Burlington Bay canal, in one week during the month of July, in the present year, and from one of the four wharves at Hamilton, was shipped 17,000 bushels of wheat, per biishel at this time $h '^ ^^ \^» m. t 11 !i 21^ UPPER CANADA. Besides the District School, Hamilton has several pri- vate Seminaries most respectably conducted. There are three newspapers published in Hamilton: and it is scarce- ly too much to predicate that it will become one of the most flourishing, as it is already, one of the most beauti- ful towns in Canada. In February 1836 there were ra- ces on the Lake three days consecutively : and on April 8th two steamboats arrived at Burlingtori Canal with pas- sengers from Toronto, who were conveyed to Hamilton^ in stages, over the ice, a distance of seven miles. The Gore Bank is established in this town, and fromi its respectability and liberality is likely to prove highly advantageous to this very flourishing District. STONEY CREEK Is six miles from Hamilton on the Niagara Road, inthcf township of Saltfleet : it is a considerable village con- taining several stores and taverns, and surrounded by large fhrmSj with excellent houses. From the summit of the mountain overhanging this village is a splendid and most extensive prospect, perhaps as beautiful as can be met with in Canada, The country both above and be- low the mountain extensively cultivated. A few miles from Stoney Creek, on the mountain, towards Ancaster, is the country known by the name of the Albion Mills, in the township of Barton. These Mills are turned by a powerful creek which passes through a most romantic ravine in its course to Burlington Bay There is a burn- ing spring in the beautiful woods extending down into the valley. The farms round here are large, well cleared, in high cultivation, with good houses, orchards, barns,and stock. It is the nearest route from the Western District to Lundy's Lane, by Smithville 6n the Twenty Mil^ Creek ; — when the new bridge is completed over the? Grand River at Cayuga, the route from the west to Nkn UPPfiH CANADA. Sjf gara, will be rendered still much better and shorten Perhaps in Upper Canada there is not to be met with so beautiful and highly cultivated a district as that lying immediately between iJurlinijfton Bay and the Dundas Street at Nelson. The fields are large and level, divested of slumps ; the soil very superior, bearing the most lux- nriant crops of grass, clover, and corn ; the farm-houses are good, substantial brick buildings, with dairies and cellars attached ; and the orchards are stocked with the choicest fruit trees. The ride from McNab's mansion ort Burlington fleights to Nelson, by this route, would well repay any lover of agricultural beauty and fine scenery for their trouble. Two new villages have been laid out on the lake road to Toronto, beyond Wellington Square^ between it and Qakville, — the one by Mr Kerr's^ called Port Nelson, yet in its infancy, but a few houses having been erected, and a small clearing in the woods made : — > the other at the mouth of the Twelve Mile Creek, very prettily situated, containing many houses, a tavern, ma-* ny more in course of erection, and surrounded by largd and well cleared farms, WELLING TOrsi SQUAREl ts built at the extremity of the beach stretching betweeii Burlington Bay and the Lake : there is deep water to the shpre ; the Burlington Bay Canal passes through this beach*, connecting Ontario with Hamilton and the West. There are several large stores and houses, and an excel- lent tavern in this village: a very neat Episcopal church has been erected, surmounted by a lofty white spire, seen at a Considerable distance, and imparting that charming character to a village scene, so pleasing to the lovers of* rural beauty. The road to Toronto passes through this village, Port Nelson, and by the Twelve Mil« Creek i^ 28 I 'Na .!!'!': :i i J^' 118 UPPER CANADA. OAKVILLE, which owes its prosperity, nay its existence to the patri- otic and indefatigable exertion of Colonel Chisholm, one of the present members of the House of Assembly, for the counfy oi Halton. It is very pleasantly situated on a beautiful level, about thirty feet above tho Lake, which it fronts, — it is directly at the mouth of the Sixteen Mile Creek,which forms a safe and commodious harbour,where several schooners and steamboats have been built. The village has increased so rapidly, that it now extends across the Creek, — it was formerly on the left bank, — a good draw-bridge is erected over it. The following account of this flourishing village was made in February last. The past six months has witnessed the erection of a very handsome Methodist Church, to which the addition ofa spire not only adds to tie elegance of the building but makes it an ornament to the town. In- deed we have frequently anticipated the pleasure of viewing from the deck of the Oakville on her way to Toronto the vast improvement to the interesting appearance of the town which the church and its spire must create. Building has not however been confined to the church. We have noticed the erection of several new houses and ad- ditions made to the others. Among the latter we cannot but particu- larly remark the additions to appearance and comfort of the Oakville House. Ofthis house His Excellency our new Governor, we under- stand, was pleased during his short stay in town, to observe that it was the best tavern he had been in since he left albany. The establishment of a post-oflice has conferred upon the town, a means of holding communication with the world without which no place can prosper. Two considerable stores have been opened and report bids us look forward to the opening of others during the current year. The Weighing Machine, erected in Mary street, althouTh not a conspicuous object, has nevertheless been a great convenience to the town, and advantageous to the neighbourhood. The note of preparation for building during the coming spring, we fkie happy to say is sounding. Messrs. Watson and Hopkirk have began the cellart for their intended brewery, and the Rev. Joseph Mar VFPRR CANADA. 219 10 preparing fur the erection ofhis dwelling. These works are upon the west side uf the Creek, and will doubtless prove the commence- iiieiitof a rapid extension of our town in that quarter. The Government Steam Dredging Machine was built in our ship- yard, under the contract of D. S. Howard Esq., from the States. — 'J'his employed many hands during the winter, and by the prompt weekly payment of the men, made no slight addition to the circulating medium. Although the intended dam across the creek is not yet in progress, creditable report induces us to believe, that ere long we shall have the satisfaction of announcing that, this vast improvement to our town is in progress. When this undertaking with the mills to be erected up- on it, are completed, it will impart a fresh impulse to our advancement and of which the intended improvements of our excellent harbour will enable the town to reap the full benefits. During the progress of these outward »igns of advancement, we have observed that other and less conspicuous concerns have receiv- ed the attention of our fellow townsmen. A very considerable sub- scription has been entered into towards the salary of a presbyterian clergyman to oiiiciate in this town and neighbourhood, — not on- ly will this be a spiritual benefit to the community, but occasion the e- rection of a presbyterian church, to add to the number of our public buildings. The population of Oak ville is upwards of 30O. DUNDAS. The village of Dundas, now about to be incorporated, is situated in a most picturesque ravine, between the op- posing mountains of Ancaster and West Flamboro', front- ing a luxuriant valley, through which the Desjardins canal passes, connecting it with the waters of Burlington lake. This village, though situated more advantageously, both for external commerce and internal communication, than any other place at the head of lake Ontario, has not ad- vanced with nearly the same rapidity, with other places, possessing not a tithe of the same natural advantage, which appertain to DHn» UrPER CANADA. 22T The Stump remains, careiuUy guarded, of the first tree n hich was cut down on St. George's day, April 23, 1827, now nine years since, and really when any person surveys the country — then a dense forest, most heavily timbered^ now hundreds of acres well cleared and cultivated, many without a stump, all the appearances of well requited in- dustry around him, further improvements in contem- plation, property greatly enhanced in value — he is stiuck with astonishment at the surprising results of properly directed exertion. The short road fronh Dundas to- Guelph, by the mills of Mr. Crooks of West Flamborougb is through a dense pine wood, extensive cedar swamps, with very few clearings untsi within seven or eight miles of Guelph : it is but 24 miles, admirable travelling when frozen up in winter, but almost impassable in the spring and autumn months, and but little improved in tlie midst of summer. The horrible causewayed roads, most clum- sily put together, and occasionally broken, renders the more circuitous route by Gait far preferable. The exten- sive log house built by Mr. Gait is now occupied by Mr. Strange : it is a capacious building, tastefully finishe d in the Swiss style, far superior to the generality of log build- ings. It is surrounded by a line garden well planted and laid out, at the extremity of which the river Speed pursues its course. The Catholic church stands in a most com- manding situation, at the summit of a hill, the view from it of the surrounding country of Eramosa, Pusllnch, Gar- afraxa, &c. is extensive, beautiful and vaiied. Guelph is a very dry and healthy situation ; there are two bridges over the river Speed, one at each extremity of the village. The Episcopal church possesses some claim to elegance: it is built in the Gothic style, and of stone, the interior is handsome. 1 his village may justly claim the character of being more exclusively British, than almost any other I 1,1 2^3 UPPER CANADA. in the Province. The Gore District Agricnhural Society has many warm supporters at Guelph. In the to\vnshi|> of Puslinch there are several lakes — and towards the town- ship of Nassagaweya, some extensive prairies. The tow n- ship of Eramosa, at the back of Guelph, is rapidly settling— the land is fine and cheap, tlie roads arc goodj and there are numerous streams of water. About sixteen miles from Guelph is the new settlement of NICHOL. Mr. Fergiisson visited Canada in 1831, and feeling sathfred; witl^ the prospects of independence wliicli itatrorded to industrious agricul- tural settlers and to moderate capitalinits fond of rural pursuits, he re- turned to the Upper Province in 183-3, hrinffing- with him six sons, whom he intended to settle in the country. As the formation of a set- tlement, in which so many of his own family were to reside, was the leading object, Mr. F. naturally turned i)is attention in the first place to a healthy district, and finding the township of Nichol to he in a most salubrious climate, with a rich soil, and abundance of pure wa- ter, he purchased about 6000 acres upon tlic Grand River, intersected by a small branch of the same stream, having also a valuable wat^r power, at the little Falls. A village named Fergus was laid out, up- on a beautiful slope, adjoining the Falls, and operations commenced upon the 30th December, 1833. A young friend who accompanied Mr. F. from Scotland and who is now associated with him in the con- cern, took up his residence at Fergus, and a most respectable Scotch farmer, who had resolved to cast his lot, wherever Mr. F. nught fix, made the first purchase and prepared to clear his land. A saw-mill was soon erected, a bridge thrown across the river, a tavern built, and preparations made to erect agrist-raill, a church and school house, all of which are now completed in the most satisfactory manner. Boadst were also cutout and a bridge laid across the Irvine, the small branch, of the Grand River, about three miles back from the village. Mr. F. has disposed of about 5,000 acres within, two years, to 38 individuals, all of whom are in every way respectable, and indeed no temptatioa will inducQ Mr. F. to admit any person of doubtful character as a set- tler, either upon lands or village lots. The settlers are of two classes from the old country, namely, farmers and substantial mechanics, of fuperior education, industrious and willing to encounter some hard- l^ijps taind privations, for the attainment of that comfort and independ^- UPPER CANADA. 223 ence which the change oftiin^a at home, seemed to deny them. They lire all engaged in clearing- their lands, building, &c., and seem to be perfectly satisfied with their prospects. Abont 450 acres are at thi$ date, (February, 1836,) cleared nnd in course of clearing for next sea- eon, and Mr. i3Liist, tlie firtit settlor, has raised and sold 2(5^ bushels of wheat per acre, estimating his loss from the singularly unfavorable season at n bushel per acre. Even as it its, Mr. B. has paid the price of his land, $1 per acre, cleared and fenced it $16 per acre, and lias 32s Qd per acre besides, to meet the cost of seed, harrowing in, harvestings and thrashing. Mr. B. sold his wheat at 5s. per bushel. The village contains about twenty houses, and is increasing witli considerable spirit. A good store has been opened, a brewery com- menced, and in a few weeks a post-otJice will be established. The church, which is inconnection with the established church of Scot- land, has not yet been provided with a pastor, but from the arrange- ments now in progress, it is hoped that the deficiency will ere long b& supplied. The church and schoolhouse have been built solely at Mr. Fergusson's expense and he intends that the choice of the clergyman and teacher shall rest with the heads of families in communion with the church. It is intended that a comfortable house and glebe shall be provided for the incumbent, with the produce of the pews, (seats for 300,) and such government allowances as may be procured, and la this way it is hoped that the evils of clerical influence upon the one hand, and of unworthy subserviency on the other, may be in some measure, if not altogether, avoided. A library for the use of the settlers, has also been commenced and placed tender the charge of the schoolmaster, who lately opened hiS; school. GALT Is a very pretty village, situated on both sides of the Grand River — they are connected together by a bridge^ and (he slopes, to the summits of the banks, covered with good buildings, renders the site very picturesque. Mr^ Shade has a fine stone house immediately on the banks of the river, and Mr. Dickson a good house on the opposite side. The ride from Brantford, through the village of Paris, to this place, is beautiful, and the road extremely good. There are several large railis and manufactories, here— two churches, a school, and taverns. The country 230 UPPER CANAUA. around is covered with pine trees of small growtb, and some fine cedars skirting the river. There ure several small but beautiful lakes in this neighbourhood, in which there is a great abundance offish. The cholera, in 1 834,^ iTiade dreadful havoc in this village — it has now recovered from its effects, and is in a very flourishing state. It is about 18 miles from Guelph and from Brantford* Be- tween Gait and Brantford, numerous settlers from Great i3ritain have taken up their location, within these 2 years past, mainly owing to the indefatigable exertions of Sir John Colborne, in procuring good and valid titles for the Indian property. The road to Brantford is along the Grand river, presenting a succession of most agreeable and picturesque scenery — there is no fine timber, chiefly dwarf oak, with underwood, and occasional spots of pine. An abundance of wild roses grow on the banks of the river. The country through which the road runs is a succession of gentle swells. PRESTON. Three miles from Gait is the new, but very flourish- ing, village of Preston, standing in a delightful situation, and containing some large stone buildino^s, and very ca- pacious stores. Two churches are about to be erected in It, and it seems as though it would become a place of bu- siness and importance. BERLIN. In the township of Waterloo is the village of Berlin al- so flourishing, in the heart of one of the best cleared and cuhivated townships in the Province. A newspaper in the German language is printed in this place. ♦♦This village, which has risen into existence within the last two or three years, already numbers many industrious mechanics — such as a black-smith, carpenters and cabinet-makers, wheel-wright and chair- niaker, hatter, waggon-makers, potter, saddle atid liarnees-maker,^ mA-^ tfPtk CANADA. 231 ton, »hoemakeis, tailors, coverlet and stocking weaver, grocery and 'dry goods store, two taverns, a book-bindery and also a printing office ; «nd the ueighbourbood is densely populated, mostly by wealthy farm! er.-. There are grist and saw-mills, &c. in the immediate vicinity. On the road to Paris in the township of Dumfries,there Js a new village Called St. George, in which great activi- ty is at present prevailing ; it has several stores and a post-oflice. The surrounding country is well cleared and fertile, particularly in the vicinity of the JERSEY SETTLExMfiNT, Well known and highly spoken of, for its locality, healthiness, good Boil, as also good roads. If nothing here induce you to settle, although 1 much think you would find something, continue along the Governor's Road, five miles further, then at Froman's corner take the right hand road for St. George. Let this be your resting place awhile, for here you will meet with some desirable properties. The village at present is small, but thriving, and must thrive from its situation. It contains a grist mill with great capabilities, and from being worked by water ori- ginating from springs, its supply is both constant and regular, and as ft never fails in summer, nor freezes in winter, farmers from a distance are obliged to have recourse to it, when the operation of the mill in their own vicinity, is checked by either drought or frost. These are great advantages recollect, situated as it is, in the heart of a wheat growing country. I understand it has lately been purchased by two enierprr- eing young men, and as they are desirous of accommodating the farmer, as well as benefitting themselves, it is thought they will succeed.-^ Should they read this, they will see that I wish them, what I wish all good subjects who emigrate to this country, success in their new under- taking. There is also a saw-mill, distillery, two general stores, post- office, blacksmith shop, wheelwright, shoemaker, tailor, an hotel, a school, and though last not least, a church. There are residing in this village, two medical men whose professional duties I should imagine are not arduous, not from want of skill, but because the neighbourhood is too healthy. This is a fine section of the country ; the soil is gen- erally allowed to be productive, and easy of tillage, certainly two very great accommodations. The roads are good, and as your wants [if not too extravagant] can be all supplied at the village, so also can you dis- pose of your produce. Your access to market then is easy. You will find that this portion of the country, is superior to others, inasmuch 9» 232 UPPER CArfAtJA. you are enabled to locate on cleared land, with a small capital. Its silU^ ation being high it is superior for its salubrity. It is superior in the growth of wheat and clover, and is not inferior in locality. July 2x1, 1836, I rode to, and from, Guelph, by the short road from Dundas, and was absolutely amazed at the improvement which had taken place in eighteen months . the extent of clearing, the number of new and comfora- ble log houses erected on the route, particularly through the township of Puslinch, and the general improvement in the country. There is an excellent inn kept by Mn Black, which I can recommend with great confidence and satisfaction, for the attention paid to travellers, the excel- lence of its accommodation and the moderation of its charges. He has named it New Berwick. BRANTFORD Is a large and and very flourishing village, situated on a fine plain, high and dry, and overlooking the Grand Ri- ver, over which a bridge has been erected. It takes its name from the celebrated Indian Chief, of tLe Mohawk tribe, John Brantj Esq. Since the surrender of the lands surrounding this village, and those forming the townships . of Cayugaa and Dunn, by the Indians, and the naviga- tion of the Grand River been completed, Brantford has most rapidly increased, and now contains several church- es, schools, manufactories, stores, mills, and many excel- lent private dwelling houses. *'We have been favored with the census of our toiwn, now amounting to 1100 inhabitants, and which shows an increase in three years, of more than triple the amount, and in the last year of 225, the number being in 1833, 347—1835, 875—1836, llOO. The great satifactiort ivhich this affords must be participated in by all interested in the neigh- bourhood. In a country like this, population is wealth, and if we pro- ceed for the next three years, and it is to be hoped we shall, with the «ame rapidity as for the last, we shall bid fair to eifand forth as one of the finest cities of the Province. Our position for health and fertility if rPPfiU CANADA. 23^ •Rot to be surpassed, and our opening navigation will afford such facili- iUs as well for the export ot our produce as for the iuiporiation from 'other countne., ihut the agriculturuist and the merchant may look for^ ward to a prosperity that cannot fail to be attendant on industry and ^energy." A great influx of British settlers have purchased the lands on both sides of the river, extending to Paris, and preparing to erect tiieir houses on the most favored and picturesque sites. In connection with my account of this Village, 1 intended to give the particulars of two visits I hiade during the winter to the Indian villages of the Mo- hawk iand Tuscarora tribes, in company with two Scotch gentlemen, possessing considerable property near An- castcr. From its length I have transferred it to the Appendix, under the head of Indians. The sleighing was so excellent, that we performed the journey, eigh- tecin miles, in two hours. The country along the Mo- hawk road has improved very greatly during these last threeyears: it runs through a pine swamp for many miles, the labdur of clearing which must have been ex- cessive, as the profusion of stumps demonstrate. The foad in summer is frequently in a wretched state, but Some spirited individuals have niianifested a disposition to improve it, aind it is likely to become a good turnpike road Being the main western road, and the immediate route to the most fertile district in the Province, from the head of Lake Ontario, nothing can retard its prosperity and improvement, but apathy, or prevent it^ becoming one of the most interesting and important portions of the country. The land on both sides of the road, after pass- ing through the ridges of pine, not very deep, is of the most excellent quality, and some of the neture farmers raise prodigious crops of wheat, oats, buckwheat, and In* dian corn. There are large, beautiful, and extensivef meadows in the route, with fine streams of living wattr/ 30 ■I'l'"^ %, 254 Urt'CR CANADA. running through tliem, to their debouchure In the Grand River. The greater portion of the road passess through the township of Ancaster. About six miles from the vill- age of Ancaster, and midway between Hamilton and Brantford, and Dundas and Brantford, is one of the best taverns on the route, kept by Mr. Henry Odell, who is also a very extensive farmer. Excellent accommodation, great attention, and moderate charges are sufficient re- commendations; they are all to be met with at this inn. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETIES. There are many of these societies now established in the Province ; besides the one for the General Home District, there is also one for Oro, Orilla, Simcoe, and Thorah, — one in the London District, — one also in the Gore District, first proposed by Frederick Suter, Esq., of Oakwood, at the annual dinner of the sons of St. An- drew, since matured and carried into operation, having the Hon. James Crooks of West Flamborough, President, and Dr. William Craigie of Ancaster, Secretary. It has had shows for cattle, at Hamilton, Nelson, Brantford, and Guelph. It has many hundred subscribers, honorably emulating and vieing with each other in the attainment of agricultural perfection, and meeting and mingling to- gether as old and new settlers, and cherishing feelings of individual and mutual regard. Mr. Fergusson is deserv- ing of great credit for the attention he has bestowed and the pains he has taken in the introduction of better breeds of cattle : the cows on his farm are the finest I have seen in the Province : a good deal of white in their colour, shorthorns, straitback, just like those in the Holderness Country of Yorkshire. The cows, generally roaming a- bout the country as free commoners, are swag-backed, their tails thick and rough, pin-haunched, their heads coarse, their faces broad, ribs flat, and horns thick and »ppER CA4NAUA. 255 long. His Durham ox is a picture, a model of these beautiful cattle : short hoiiis, strait back, a taper neck, ve- ry small inpropcirtion vvhereit joins on the small and handsome head, deep dewlap, small boned in the legs, hoop ribbed, square hipped, and tail slender. I believe Mr. Ferguson uses turnips as a winter food, Frederick Suter, iCsq., whose farm is worthy the inspection of any lov'or of agricultiu'e, and should have been seen, by all means, by Mr. Illinois Sheriffof Mungo's Park, has cul- tivated the turnip most successfully. On his farm, he has large and beautiful fields of turnips of both kinds, sowed in rows with intercultivation, and certainly pre- senting as luxuriant a growth as could be seen. He bai also raised large quantities of barley, the grain bright and heavy. H. P. Simmons, Esq., of Ancaster brought from England last year some of the Dishley breed of sheep :— they are as beautiful as imagination could make them,— - round and loaded with flesh, and will if generally en- couraged, produce quantities of fine mutton, and bales of fine wool. He also brought out the thin rhined Norfolk hog, the most perfect picture to be seen : they become fat on anv kind of food, and without anv trouble. The Gore District returns five members to the House of Assembly. THE LONDON DISTRICT, Lying to the west of the Gore District, stretches also north and south from the north shore of Lake Erie, ta the southern extremity of Lake Huron. Independently of its large water fronteir on the two lakes, it is intersect- ed by the rivers Thames, Ouse, Aux Sables, and Mait- land. A paper printed in London speaks thus pf this District: — Poivessiiig, as this District does, a vasttract of unoccupied territory* of traoicendanl excoUeucy of soil—enjoying a climate admirably adap- I m •(; ■|i|" tSG UPPKU CANADA. ted to aid the labour ol' the agriculturist— a territory wiio^c free and; exhilirating air «like forbids tho approach of peHtileiicc and famine^ it only wants a population propoilioiiatu to its extent of soi!, to render; its situation enviable beyoad that of any people on earth. Enjoyini^ all the blessings of the Uritish Constitution — suliject to no grievous Tythe system— called upon for no taxes, beyond what is barely neces- sary for the administration of justice, and tha promotion of internal ini- provent: it needs only the aid of that powerful (/ni^'ine, the Press, to spread throughout the world a Knowledge of its situation, and invite, from every nation, the industrious and enterprising, who may from necessity, or inclination be compelled or inclined to abandon the homes of their fithers. Feeling this to be its situation, and anxious to see. the whctle wilderness converted into smiling fields, and the abode oC^ the wolf, and the l^aunt of the savage, become the asylums of the sons, i^nd daughters of liberty and civi!i7jation, we have determined, by the establish mentpf a Press in London, to contribute our mite toward the attainment of those ends. We are by birth, by education, from reason, and from reflection, attached firmly and unalterably to the British con,>. stitution, and enjoying it as we do here, stripped of its most objection- able branches, determined ever to support it — ever to live under it—, and if it fall — which Heaven forbid — to fall manfully, fighting in its. defence. COUNTY OP MIDDLESEX, Tovrnshipf. Cultivated acres. UncuUivaied acres. Assessment, Fopuhitfo Aldboroughj ^,098 9,025 £6,282 592 EUfrid, 1,205 13,165 5,303 481 Malahide, 8,071 34,275 27,120 2,150. Delaware, 670 5,186 4,046 279 Dorchester, 685 8,416 4,500 448 Lobo, 2,221 17,160 8,651 675, Bay ham, 5,490 31,067 26,322 2,131 Adelaide, 1,638 39,454 12,120 935. Caradoc, 2,944 13,394 8,092 068 Southwold,, 11,208 8S,28B. 32,462 1„631 London, 11,86& 64,138 30,209 3,53a Town of London, m 16 8,599 1,037 Yarmouth, 10,825 37,960. 38,296 3.468. Dunwich, 2,864 24,869 13,163 616 Westminster, ^,777 32,180 23,229 1,877 Mosa, 1,408 COUNTY 15,770 OP OXFORD. 7,357 737 Pereham, 1,179 9,526 4,903 461 637 Oakland, Missouri, 3,781 5,914 7,875 2.626 19.342 9.6.^9 841 I ^orvichj 7,200 32.600 26,448 2.22ii f Zorra, liluiiiirord, i3leiiheiiii, Ea^t Oxford, West Oxford, Bui'ford, tJliarlo.tleville, VVitidliHin, Middletoi), Houghton, Wnlsingiiam> Townsend, \Voodliouse, UPPER CANADA. 4,272 36,200 18,595 301 4,267 3,401) 3,8!)0 13,551 13,397 2,093 9,222 7,819 4,727 ' 18,473 10,173 7,180 21,452 20,6^10 COUNTY OP NOHKOLK. 8,470 20,860 25,700 6,556 12,654 14,138 1,185 9,925 5,817 614 3,355 1,795 3,095 8,698 12,000 10465 26,617 30,310 23,752 23T 2,018 381 l,Olg 739 1,351 1,413 1.664 951 405 190 886 1,919 1,414 7,194 15,137 Horses, 4,963— Oxen of four year old and upwards, 7,272--MiIch Cows, 13,720— Horned Cattle^from 2 to 4 years old, 5,410. LONDON. This town is beautifuUy situated on the north bank of the Thames, and is the capital of the District. Governor Siincoe predicted as far back as 1793, that it would be- come, some day, a place of great magnitude and import- ejnce; the north and west branches of the Thames unite here ; it stands on an elevated and commanding situa- tion and has roads to Goderich — to St. Thomas, and to Sandwich. The following account is ftom the Freeman's Journal :— The Township of liondon was settled in the year 1818, and as in first settlers were persons for whom the Editor's Father obtained fron; the British Government free grants of land, and a free passage to ftlon- treal, we have had a more than ordinary opportunity offormingan ac- curate judgment of the propriety of the plan which we recommend- scarcely an individual who accompanied Mr. Talhot to this coimt-ry was possessed of more than £100, and many on their arrival in thi» township had not more than .£50 ; yet of all those persons there i» eesj^cely one that is not now wholly independent — in the possession of fine farms, of an abundance of stock, and in the enjoyment of all the comforts and raany of the luxuries of life. The Township of London in 1829, 7 yeprs after its settlement, contained a population of 2415 souls. It contained at that time 5941 acres of cleared land, 135 horses, 553 oxen, 965 cows, 2 merchants shops,3saw.mills,2grist-mills, 12frim9ister office for the county of Oxford. A church is about being erected, about a quar- ter of a mile from the village, belonging to the church of England. The roads are good, and the country long- settled, well cleared and finely cultivated. EMBRO Is a village in the Ane township of Zorra ; its population, at present, is under 100. There is a Kirk of Scotland, one school, two taverns, four stores, many mechanics, saw mill and grist mill and some manufactories. The village lots are selling from twenty to forty dollars each, the lot containing one fourth of an acFe. The township is beau- tifully timbered with maple, beech, elm, bass, cherry, black and white ash, a few oaks and pine. Wild land is selling for 15 to 20s. per acre. Partially cultivated farms from £1 10s. to £3 per acre. It was first settled in 1820, the inhabitants one half Scotch, the remaining half Canadians and Americans. The population of the town- ship in 1835 was 2,018: this year in January, 2354 — The townships of Yarmouth, Southwold, Norwich, and Townsend have increased very considerably, in propor- tion, during the last year. From Delaware to Adelaide, a distance of 18 miles, a post is now sent, for the accom- modation of the numerous families located in that fine township, together with those of Moore, Plympton, War- wick and Sarnia. CANADA COMPANY'S LAND. T«wnshipi. Biddulph, Colborne. COUNTY OP HURON. Cultivated acres. Uncultivated acrea. Assesgment, Population. 419 370 3,829 34.093 £1.496 5.459 166 158 ■Ik '' II I If I ' Ij I '!! 246 CPPEIl CANADA. 1 re^^ret that I could not procure sucli an enlarj^ed ac-» 'O* count ol* this county as 1 could have desired. From all I learn, it still continues to progress; — the nudn road througli the Canada Company's lands is one oi* the liuest in the Province. Goderich, whicii is situated on the lii- ver Maitlandat its entrance into Lake Huron, must be- come a place of commercial importance. A steamboat runs regularly between it and Detroit. The ibllowing notice of it, by the Canada Company, merits attention : The large Tract is in tlie London District, and extends along tli& shored of lake Huron, a distance of GO mile.^. The soil is most excel- lent, is well watered, and at'the north-western extremities, at the conflu- ence of the river Maitland with the laUe, is an excellevit harhour, iVoni which the Company's steamboat sails regularly to Sandwich, at the head of lake Erie: thus completing the water-communication betweeiv Q,uebec and New York, and the town of Goderich, which i« there ea- tablished. Two excellent roads, to the extent of upwards of 100 miles, have been already made, and are equal to (ho best roads in the Pro- vince ; others, in vaiious directions, are now in progress; and from the facilities thus aflTorded by the Company to their settlers, and the erec- tion of mills, brldt, as, &c. where required, the emigrant will find it greatly to his advantage to settle in this Tract, now called the County of Huron. In the Towri ofCioderich excellent stores have been esta, biished ; a Clergyman of the Church of England resides there, and a Presbyterian Minister preaches weekly. The Ibrmer gentleman is supported altogether by the voluntary contributions of his congregatioti, which may therefore be taken as an evidence in favour of the respecta- ble character of the inhabitants of that settlement. A school, with a master competent to trach llie classics as well as theconnnon branches of education, has been for some years in operation. ♦ 'We hear with great pleasiiie that the Fisheries, another of thegreat resources of our country are likely to be develope('. The legislature, it is to be hoped and expected, will grant a loan to the Huron Fishery Company, io order to enable them to enlarge their operations. This Company, formed nearly two years since, by a few spirited individuals resident in Goderich and its vicitiity, for the purpose of rendering lake Huron conducive to the increase of trade, succeeded last year to the utmost extent that their limited means would afford, but the experience they have gained has proved, tliatif uufficient capital were at their eon** a cat re, eiy tiia als ke the jce ink* tJtPEH. CANADA. 24r wand, a supply of not less than 20000 barrels might annually be fur- iiiahed through the means of this company alone. The fish principally taken are sahnon trout, white-fish and herrings, all of which are of th« first quality, and far superior to those uf the lower lakes. WESTERN DISTRICT. COUNTY OF ESSLX. Townsfiipa. Cultivated ncr Sandwich, 9,476 Maiden, 2,107 Colchester, 2,980 Gosfield, 2,936 Mersea, 1,234 Maidstone&K ochester 579 Romney, 479 Haileii^h, 3,087 Harwich, 1,279 Howard, 4,428 Orford. 2,111 Caniden, 61 Dawn, 1,138 Zone, 1,166 Chatham, 1,546 Dover, 1,749 Plympion, 199 Sombra and Walpole Islan J 794 Moore, 153 Tilbury, 942 Itivntcd acres. Asspssmont. Popolation. 33,001 £39,428 2,618 13,694 16,070 1,459 14,554 11,586 868 19,002 13,8(>8 943 8,874 5,263 943 10,792 4,249 525 OP KEN'T. 4,925 2,211 158 22,220 13;581 1,077 12,762 8,378 656 25,982 15,899 1,134 12,105 6,489 415 3.895 2,369 216 9,747 4,844 409 19,342 6,921 674 6,319 4,891 363 7,670 7,000 790 11,920 2,968 261 8,842 5,335 524 1,447 2,442 471 10,758 4,967 496 Horses, 2,459 — Oxen, four year old and upwards, 2,133 — Milch Cows, 4,667 — Horned Cattle, from two to four years old, 1,725. The following communication 1 received from a highly valued and most intelligent friend. **As to soil and climate, the Western District is certainly superiof to any other part of Upper Canada. Along the Detroit river, the value of land has encreased within the last three years 300 per cent — the value of land is still on the Increase, andthe rage for acquiring property is really inconceivable. Some farmers who would have sold their farms two years ago for $1200, have refused this year $20,000 for the very same property. The intended rail road from Bertie to Sandwich is the cause of this sudden increase. The moment that that work is completed, I have no doubt but this will be one of the most prosperous parts of Upper Canada. From my knowledge of the other parts of this ^ti ' i:! 248 UPPER CANADA. Province, 1 do nol perceive any material diflercnce here In point of healthfulness. Europeans on their arrival here, and settling in the woods, are subject to agues, and remittent fevers, but I have »efnthe same thing pi-evail amongthem in every other part of the country.— Those who have the means of purchasing improved farms are not sub- ject to those diseases. The nature of the soil is generally clj»y, cover- ed with six or seven inches of alluvious substance. In some places the land ts rather too level, but still can be easily drained. Ii- general the timber is so heavy, that without capital, it is very difficult to clear the land, and therefore, poor settlers must expect to undergo a great deal of hardship before they can render themselves comfortable. They have nevertheless advantages that they cannot possess in any other part of the country. The winters are so extremely mild that they can raise cattle without the least trouble, and there are thousands of hor- ses and horned cattle ranging through the forest, without ever being housed. Detroit is an excellent market for all the surplus produce of the country — the present prices areas follows : Wheat $1, Oats 2s. 3d. barley 2s. 9d. Indian Corn and Rye 4s. currency per bushel, Winches- ter measure. Poor people can easily get employment at the following rates : servant man 2s. 6d. per day and fed ; servant maid $4 per month. A good mechanic from $1^ to $2 per day. The Town of Sandwich is not fast encreasing : the present number of houses does not exceed 90, and the population of the town does not amount to more than 400. At present the new village of Richmond, opposite Detroit, has taken the start ot Sandwich, and should the rail road terminate there, as it is most likely it will, Sandwich will never become any thing of a town. There is a steam saw and grist-mill at Amherstburgh. One steam grist and carding mill nearly finished at Sandwich, and one grist and saw steam mill on River aux Puces, ten miles above Sand- wich. There is no pine in this partof the country ; all the boards and plank are got either from the London District or from the River Sin- clair — however, building materials are not scarce, for no part of the Province is better supplied with oak, cherry and walnut trees. Fish of vfirious descriptions is in abundance, and the fisheries of white-fish alone form a considerable branch of commerce. I am sure, on an ave- rage, there is not less than 10,000 barrels of white-fish exported every year from this part of the country. Fruit, of the best quality, is in such abundance that it is almost valueless. This will give a sufficient idea of the advantages aiid disadvantages of this part of the Province. It will never become a terrestrial paradise— but it requires nothing but capital and industry to make it the garden of Upper Canada. At pre- UPPER CANADA. 24^ •ent society is on a low scale, and we want a better class of agricultur- "njts than our slovenly French Canadians." AMHERSTBURGH is on the Detroit River, three miles from its mouth. It is delightfully situated, and been long settled. It is sur- rounded by some of the finest land in Canada, and is ad- mirably adapted for commerce. It has a small island immediately opposite, between which and the shore there is excellent anchorage ; it is sixteen miles from Sand- wich, which is at the other extremity of the Detroit Ri- ver, adjoining Lake St. Clair. The scenery along the banks of this lovely river is beaiitiful in the extreme, and from the fertility of the soil, and the exuberant vegeta- tion, exhibits a richness and verdure, not to be surpassed. The inhabitants are principally of French descent, and speak the language. Owing to the great mildness of the climate, standard apricot trees, peaches, pearsi apples^ and plums thrive well. There are some very good gar- dens, and some tolerable houses. There is a road from Mersea on Lake Erie, by Amherstburgh, to Sandwich — it is 45 miles ; through the townships of Colchester and Maldon, the road is but liitle elevated above the level of the lake. From Maldon to Amherstburgh, the soil is of the finest quality, and excellent crops of Tobacco are raised. The population of Amherstburgh is about 700, — • there is a large Catholic Church, also an Episcopalian, and Presbyterian, and several schools. There is an ex-, tensive common near Amherstburgh, the pasturage of which is very luxuriant. The Detroit River is about three quarters of a mile in breadth, and is nearly thirty miles in length, extending from Lake St. Clair to Lake Erie. The waters of those majestic inland seas, Lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron pass through it, on their route to the St, Lawrence. About a mile and a half frdni Amherstburgh commences the Huron Reserve, extend- ing along the banks of the Detroit River seven miles, and being seven miles in depth. Many attempts have beeri made to induce the Indians to dispose of this valuable territory, unsurpassed by richness of soil, beauty of scene- ry, fertility, and mildness of climate in Upper Canadii^ 32 ^250 VPPF.R CANADA. •Between this place am! Saiulwicli tlu? banks of ilio Uivrr iirelow, and the country swanipy. SANDWICH -Is Situated on a fine rising ground, m arly opposite De- troit, the ferry to which is about a mile and a lialf ubuvo it, towards Lake St. Clair. It is the county town anrl consistsof a long irregular street, along the river. g irregular sireci, aiong uie river. It contains a population of 500, and is attracting that atten- tion which its situation so well merits. The inhabitants are piincipally French ; there is a large Catholic Church > the account of whose alVairs are subjoined, the Gore Bank has lately come into operation ; an Agricultural Bank has been for some time establishnd ; and a bank styled the "Bank of the People," h>is also been in operation. The stock is a most profitable investment of capi- tal, as the following statement will show. **At a recent unction sale, the following rates were obtained for bank stock— 10 shares Montreal bank, £29 ; 10 do. £29 10; 10 do £30 10; and 25 do at cG30 premium. 15 shares City Bank, at £7 ; 40 do at £7 10; and 23 do at £8 premium." *'The People's Bank of Toronto, have lately declared a dividend of six per cent, for the last six months, and have called for a further mj- stalment often per cent, upon the capital stock subscribed." Cjexeral Statement of the Affairs of the Bank of Upper Cantida on Wednesday the 3rd day of February, 1836 — furnished by order of the Honorable the Commons House of Assembly. Capital Stock pnid in £200,000 An»ount of Notes in circulation not hearing interest of the value of five dollars and upwards, £170,481 5 Po. under five dollars, - - £19,542 10 Total amount in circulation, - « - Bills and notes in circulation, bearing interest, none. Balances due toother Banks, ... Cash deposited, including all sums whatsoever due from the Bank, not bearing interest (iJs hills in circula tion and balances due to other haMks excepted,) ■ Cash deposited bearing interest, - - _ £616,285 6 11 RESOJ;nrES OF THE BANK. Gold, silver and other coined metals in the vaults of theBank, vi/,:— In vault at Toronto, £98,730 13 5 Amount at the Agencies, • - 4,129 2 1 Total Specie, £102,859 T5 6 Real estate and bank furniture, - - - 8,858 10 10 Bills of other Banks, 16,092 Balances due from other Banks, - - - 7,408 13 8 Balances due by the Agencies at this date, being money in transitu, - - - _ - - 1,745 4 4 Amount of all debts due, including notes, bills of ex- change, and all stock and funded debts of every des- cription, excepting the balances due from other banks, 479,321 2 7 220,02J} 15 29,768 18 S 157,755 13 8,736 19 7 S £616,285 6 11 We the undersigned make oath and awear, that the foregoing state- ments are correct, to the best of our knowledge and belief. Wm. PROUDFOOT, President. . Thos. G. RIDOUT, Cashier. Sworn before me at Toronto, this 6th of February, 1836. James Fit/.qibboh, J. P APPENDIX 265 MISCELLANEOUS. s 7 S Rate niul amount of the last dividend, being for the six iiionths eiidine Ihe aist December, 1835 : Ra»e of dividend fotn- percent on £200,000 to amount of capital stock paid in, .i,'8000 Amount of reserved profits after declaring the last dividend 50,59 8 Do of debts due to the IJanU and not paid being over due 41,160 10 2 l^ank of Upper Canada, Toronto, Feb. 3, 1836. Abstkact from the Books of the Commercial Bank of the MidlanJ District, exhibiting a general statement of the alfairs of the Institu- tion, on the 1st day of February, 1836, according to Act of Parlia- ment, 2i\ Win. c. 4. Capital Stock paid in, - - - - £100,(MM) Bank notes in circulation not bearing interest, viz; of $5 and upwards, - - £100,887 Under $5, - - - - - 44,375. Bills and notes bearing interest, none. Balances due to other banks and foreign agents on Lxchange transactions, ..... Cash depo>its bearing interest, ... Cash deposits including all sums whatsoever due from the bank not bearing interest, ... 145,262 380,806 12,619 1 Total amount due from the bank, 39,600 12 5 £336,317 13 5 Rate of J yearly dividend to the 1st Dec. last being 4 per cent on the capital stock, .... Kate bonus paid 15th Dec. last 6 per cent, Amount of reserved profits at the time of declaring the last dividend and bonus, ..... Amountof debts due to the bank and not paid being over due, - - - £10,724 13 11 of which £108 IS 1 may be considered doubtful. RESOURCES OP THE BANK. Gold, silver and copper, in the bank and its ofTices, Real estate, office furniture, &ic., ... Bills of other banks, . . . . j^^lances due from other banks and foreign agencies, Amount of all debtbdue, including notes, bills of ex- change, and all stock and funded debts of every des' cription, excepting the balances due from other banks, 4,000 tl 6,000 174 15 6 £34,874 10 3.703 10 10 7,424 10 10 5.704 6 1 284,610 16 6 Total amount of the resources of the Bank, £336,317 13 Account of the aiTairs of the Commercial Bank of the Midland Dii- trict, according to the best of our knowledge and belief. J. S. CARTWRIGHT, President. F.A. HARPER, Cashier. Sworn before me at Kingston, this 2d of February, 1836. W. H. Gray, J. K 266 APPENDIX The establishment of nine new Banks ia contemplated, crease of the capital of two old ones. The notices are : To increase the capital of tLe Bank of Upper Canada, Do do Commercial Bank, For a Bank in Prince Edward District^ and an irt- £500,000 600,000 100,000 ioo.ooo 200,000 200,000 2'J0,00d hot p.tated. not stated. 100,000 50,000 Do Dimdasj Do Niagara, Do Western District, Do Brockville, Do St. Catherines, Do Cobourg, Do Prescotti Do Chatham, If these proposals are complied with there will be a total increase in the banking capital of Upper Canada of £1,850,000. On this the Herald remarks : *'The fact that so large an increase of our banking capital is proposed, shows not only that a large increase is actually necessary, but also that a vast amount of capital can be furnished to supply that increase ; for ^e cannot suppose that the persons who pro- |>ose so vast an addition to our banks, have not considered and found the means which are necessary to Carry their designs into eHect.'^ Thomas Daltori, Esq. the Editor of the Patriot, has been indefatiga- ble in his exertions to procure an extension of banking privileges to tlie Province, and if his admirable reasonings on the subject are an earnest of his forth coming work, it will be one of the most interesting and important ever issued frOm the Press. The Bank of British North America is likely also to come into ope- ration and serve the Province materially. The Welland Canal Com- pany, in order to carry on their affairs, have issued notes, payable at a twelve month's date — from all which it may be seen that a great in- crease of the circulating medium is absolutely indispensible to carry out the resources Of the Province. The Legislative Council passed the following Resolutions on Banking : Resolved, That there is scarcely any duty more imperative upon the Legislature than to guard with care the commercial credit of this Province with other Colonies and Countries, and to uphold the confi- dence and security of its inhabitants in their mutual dealings. Resdived, That with a view to these objects the regulation of the Inetallic currency, and the exercise of such a control in regard to the fcreation and operation of Banks, as may seem most proper for securing the public against loss from a valueless or depreciated paper currency, and also against the evils which may arise from a sudden increase or diminution of the circulating medium of commercial transactions are matters which call for the vigilant and scrupulous attention of the Le- gislature. Resolved, That the admitted necessity of having a much larger ca- pital actively employed in this Province than couldf be represented by any attainable quantity of specie, has naturally and unavoidably led to »he creation of a paper currency to meet the wants of a rapidly inorea- ting population and the demands of a growing spirit of enterprise. APPEND I X. 257 Ri^so.vpd Thatwh.le.t was a perfectly new question under what loj^ailations the emission of a pnper curreney would be most safely au- fl.onscd It presented the following considerations: 1. That it mia|,t be provided tor solely by the establishment of a Provincial Bank, ha- vii.ga large capital which might from time to time be encreased, witli branches ot discount and depositc in all the Districts of the Province giving to each J)istrict the opportunity of subscribing within itself for a due proportion of the capital stock, in the original creation of the in!*titution and upon every occasion of the capital being increased, and subjecting the allairs of the Corporation to such regulations and con- trol as would best secure t!vi; safe and satisfactory management. Or 2dly, by chartering one (.thf Bank in addition to such Provincial bank in order to ensure to the public any benefit that might arise from com- petition and to do away with any objection or appearance of objection on the ground of monopoly. Or 3rdly, by chartering a number of* banks, but a number that should be limited with caution by the Legis- lature, and only suOered to be increased gradually and in proportion to the increase in the popuhition and trade of the country. Or 4thly, by chartering with little hesitation as many Banking Companies as might apply to be incorporated, relying upon the sufficiency of the restrictions to be contained in their charters and upon their prudent management of their alfairs for protecting the public against evil con- sequences from their operations. Or 5thly, by permitting still greater or rather an unlimited latitude and leavingit to the discretion ofindivi- viduals or voluntary associ^ions freely to conduct all the business of* Banking without Legislative authority or restriction, issuing bills which are to pass with those who are willing to take them as the representa- tive of cash, in such quantities as they may choose and with no othei' security to their redemption than the liability which the law attaches to these in common with all other undertakings. Resolved^ That the Legislature commenced by adopting the system first specified in the foregoing Resolutions ; that after some years it advanced, not without scruple and reluctance, to the second ; and this first step of departure having been taken, the rapidity with which the Legislative Council finds itself pressed to advance even to the last has ied them to entertain serious apprehension of injury to the public from the readiness with which the various projects for Banking with and without charters seem at the present moment to be encouraged. Resolved, That the L(?gislative Council cannot forget the very great injury which a portion of this Province formerly sustained from the failure of an unauthorised and unregulated Bank ; and without assum- ing the probability of any intentional wrong on the part of those who may be allowed to exercise the very important privilege of issuing their notes as a circulating medium ; still looking at the actual state of the Province and the present condition of its population, they cannot but dread the very probable occurrence of ruinous losses to individuals and a calamitous shock to trade and public credit from allowing such a privilege to be exercised in any other manner than under the strict and ficrupulous control of the legislature. 93 ^•1 m ■Vtr ^58 APPENDIX. REVENUE. The Revenue raised in Upper Canada is not by COf-i OOGCiO»OOI>$iO ilo o i>» OJ i^ o CO ■■ 1-4 i?5 «o§N > 3 CO u o CD a s o o o Sep C CO O QQ CO J2 2 00 a> bo 09 a> cs h^ 09 :^ Cm o o o o o 3 cd «j (Q _^s o «-=•«-?■ 0) c ca B 0) s _ « fflO 3 «>• o CO (U s a> O o CO E " B CO '" E5; o 0) O bo £ .2 2i 04 o 80Q o o o .85 o U E < < h5 « CO O a? 3 2 a Oh-S C0 U4 _ »- > o a o ooooooooooooo o u c 3 B Oi CO «4j u B 3 a. CO B PS PJ O » H u fa 6. CO ttS W 3 J3 H O e<) CO APPKNDrX. 259 cc ; :c. : the I nt iiial ! of the A-O «x> C3 S O ,:) ioiiers licensed who pay 5/. annually 27, 135/. ion duty £615 17 0. The years import duty tion tioi 2 sens of Billiard fables payinir SO/. The hawkers and pedlars on foot who pay 5/. annually 30, ISO/. Those who travel with one horse and who pay 10/. annually 2S, 2S0/. And those who travel with twahorsea and who pay 15/. annually 2, 30/. Total 490/. The number of auc- and the amount of auc- . . . . ity from the United States i^I3,808; the gross Revenue of the Province during the year was £79,450: and that it will continue to increase, so as to enable the Pro- vince to liquidate their debt, with great ease, is evident. The princi- pal dilRculty experienced was in inducing capitalists to embark their means in a Province, where so much insensate political agitation ex- isted. That task was left to the Hon. J. H. Dunn, who accomplished it in a manner worthy of his character ; and who by his zeal effectually removed that uneasiness'which was felt in a powerful degree relative to the resources and stability of the Province. I certainly diifered in the view which Mr. Dunn took of the nature of the oiBces and duties of Executive Councillor ; it appeared to me that the whole dilliculty arose from a desire that the duties should be enlarged, and the nature of the office changed, bat certainly the gentlemt-n who thought so should have refused to have accepted of the office, unless its duties were congenial with their wishes, rather than make their objection after finding they were not as comprehensive as tliev could wish. Notwithstanding this, no person who is acquainted with Messrs. Dunn, Robinson and Wells, can for one moment suppose, that they are one whit less attached to the British supremacy, than the most ardent supporter of the view which the Governor took of the question, nor that they would hesitate an in- stant, in shedding their blood in defence of that government of wliicli they have always proved most devoted and loyal subjects. The following extracts from the interesting correspondence whici* took place, relative to the Loan, will clearly demonstrate the zeal and activity manifested by Mr. Dunn, in his intercourse with the monied interests of Great Britain ! *'I made myself personally acquainted in every quarter where I might likely meet with success, and afforded every information I possessed in respect to and for the benefit of Upper Canada ; but I found consider- able reluctance amongst the monied houses to have any thing to do with the loan, from the very great excitement which had been produced from the rumors and reports in circulation relating to the state of the Canadas; and it is- a well known fact, thatlho.se rumors affijcted all Canadaian stocks : that of the Canada Company, which had maintain- ed a premium of 55 per cent, fell, in consequence of these rumors, to 33 per cent— ;md the Upper Canada Debentures, from a premium, had fallen to about par. 1 thought it best, therefore, to negociate the whole loan in the manner which I deemed the most advantageous, and I hope it will appear as favourable, under all considerations, as could be ob- tained. 1 employed myself most assiduously for the interests ol Upper d without having gone to England, I think I should not t' J'- '. ■ ■ .1 m4i 4^' a Canada, and 26Q APPENDIX. have been enabled to carry the iutentions of the Legislatme int©. t'lrect." *'dur present debt is 180,000/. currency, and 200,000/. sterling iu London. The whole of these sums have been expended iu public improvements, canals, liarbours, roads, cVc. most of which are product- ive and will ultimately redeem their cost. The present loan is to im- prove the St. Lawrence, and to construct a canal so as to admit ves.sels liom the Ocean to lakes Ontario, Erie, &c. It is the general opinion that the revenue from the canal when finished will soon pay the iiiteicst and principal. The revenue on which the loan is sei ured, as well aa the other two, is quiie ample to meet the interest and all other demsmdii on it. The Province i» increasing in population and wealth, and the revenue, though not so favourable as in 1833, yet there is no appre- hension that the cause which produced the falling olf, will have any permaDcnt effect. This revenue is entirely deriscd Uo.n duties levied at the Port of Uuebec, being about 2S per cent, sterling, ad v.slorem, upon all wares and merchandize, and about 6d. sterling per gullon upon wines, spirits and other liquors, and a small amount in Uppei Canada from commerce with the United Slates of America, and on li- cences for the sale of wines, spirits, Sec. No duties whatever on ex- ports. There is no direct tax upon the inhabitants of this Province, saving for local and special purposes. The law fixes the value of ono pound on cultivated, and on uncultivated lands, four shillings per acre^ and all other properly is rated equally low, and assessed at one penny in the pound, no part of which is paid into the public treasury." Extractor a letter from Messrs. Thomas VViliion & Co. lo Mr. Dunn. "We beg to state, that we consider your arrival in this country a most fortunate event, in respect to the negotiation for a loan, with which you have been charged by the Government of Upper Canada, there having been so much exaggeration and misrepresentation en the subject of the Canadaa. It would be impossible, perhaps, to remove from the public miijd the prejudice and alarm which prevail, not only respecting the Lower, but the Upper Province. We trust, however, that the state- njents you have made will enable us to dispel the uneasiness of the ca- pitalists with whom we are associated, and restore in some degree to the Debentures of Upper Canada, the currency and value we had suc- ceeded in giving them last year. A loyal, intelligent, and industrious population, suchasyou describe the Upper Canadians; in a country possessing great natural resources, with the fostering care of the Go- vernment, cannot fail to give to that Government, at no very dist^ ant period, a high degree of public credit. Under these impressions and actuated by a sincere desire to promote your views, we have been induced to offer, for the 400,000 on Canada Debentures, lOOA. But we must own to you, that we should have been much better pleased if the negociation of them could have been deferred till the result of the Canada Commission had been ascertained, and some idea could be Ibrmed what turn affairs will take in the Lower Province." Extract from a letter from Messrs. Barinj;, Brothers Sc Co. to Mr. Dunn, *'It only remains for us now to express our satisfaction at thus enter- into Qounectioa with the Provitice of Upjier Canada, and to beat; APPENDIX. 261 our feeble testimony to the honourable zeal with which you have con- tlucted the operation confided to you, whilst we add, that we shall al- ways be happy to devote our services to the interest ol' the Province." ROADS. The Roads in the Province are both made and repaired by Statute labour, and occcaional Parliamentary grants; every adult is compelled to do his proportion of this work, but the nnniber of days which eacli ^ individual who possesses houses or land is to work, is ngulated by the assessment. 'Jhe roads, howevur, can never be ^ood, until commu- tion takes place, so as to enable the difierent townships to convert the j)ersonal services required tVom the people into small sums of money, payable annually. 15y this mode roads could be both made «nd mend- ed. During this present year, at the latter end of the month of May, one of the path-masters in the Jersey Settlement, called out all his men to perform their full quantum of statute labour ; the road was well finish- ed. In the first week of June a violent and unprecedented storm look place, re.uJering iho road worse than before its repair; the statute labour having been ex|»ended, ihc road has become worse and worse, and can- not be improved until the period for imposing statute labour occm-s again. This is by no means solitary ; it is to be hoped that as the present House of Assembly will not consume its time, and the people's money, in vain discussions about elective Legisl.itive and Flxeci;* tivo councils, vote by ballot, and a farrago of revolutionary twaddle ; that they will occupy themselves more beneficially in establishing such in- ternal regulations and improvements as will render them most service- able to the Province. MILITIA. According to the present law, every man above eighteen and under fony, must train for the militia ; they are called out three times every year, the annual muster day being the 4th of June. It is scarcely pos- sible to conceive any thing more ludicrous than this annual rxhil)iti()n. No one can deny the utility of a properly organized military force, and it is much to be lamented that a selection could not be nuule iVom each township in every district, to form a regular, decent, ol'fective militia, exempting them from statute labour, serving on juries, providing tlinm with arms and acoutrements, and rendering them a respectiible and available body for any purpose they might be required. At present it is a hardship on the great body of labourers, and is but an incentive to drunkenness and disorder. This is another subject well worthy of parliamentarv consideration. SCHOOLS. Oneof the most interesting, as it avowedly is, one of the most im- portant subjects, that can occupy the attention of the Province, is the establishment of schools, that will place the opportimities tor educa- tion within the reach of eveiy father of n family. Observiiiion is the very element of experience, and a proper knowledge of things is the consequence of a persevering and unprejudiced observation. 'J'o. what, but to those admirable nurseries of virtue, with which Scotland abounds, can be attributed, the morality, frugality, industry, and prosperity so generally to be met with in that country:— to what, but tQ that circumstance do we look upon the arrival of a body of ScolcU •lii % jt^J 262 APPENDIX. cmigrantis, as an invaluable treasure? Their parochial schools, mtb agIiooI libraries, has made tbeni the honest, frugal, worthy, industri- ous people they are. From the Educational Statistics of the lii<^li- lands and Islands, compiled in 1833 from parochial returns, 1 find the following analytical results: — III the tSynods of Argyle ; two Presbyteries in Aberdeen, (Alford and Kiijcardine O'hcil;) the Synods of Moray, Ross, Sutherland, and Caiiliness ; Cileneig, Orkney, and Zetland, comprehending 220 par- rshus, and a population of 5t)d,U55. The number of schools not includii)^ Sabbath and week-day evening schools, and of scholars are, of J'arocliial Schools 273, scholars, l4,202 ; — Schools supported by nocieties, 315, scholars, 18,08-j; — Schools endowed, or partially so, or supported by subscription, 137, scholars, 6,314; — Schools on teach- ers' own adventure, without salary, 372, ov^holars, 13,728: — Nundjer schools, 1,097; — Number of scholar^!, 52,329 — besides 418 Sabbath schools, 20 week-day evening schools, and about 80 Schools of Indus- try of the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge. Dming »b« administration of that enlightened, consistent, and venerable states man, Flurl Grey, a system of education was established in Ireland, iit nrcordance with a plan, sanctioned and approved of by the dignita- ries of ilie Catholic and Protestant Churches, enlarged, comprehen- sive, and eii'octual in its operation, and admirably adapted for this Pro- vince, to meet the wants of its large and unprovided Catholic Popu- lation. It is really melancholy to traverse the Province, and go into many of the commun schools; you find a herd of children, instructed by Komc ami-British adventurer, instilling into the young and tendei' mind sentiments hostile to the parent state; false accounts of the late war in which (ireat Britain was engaged with the United States : geography setting foi til New- York, Philadelphia, Boston, &c., as the largest and finest cities in the world ; historical reading books, describing the Americiin population as the most free and enlightened mider Heavun ; iuKisting on tlu; superiority of their laws and institutions, to those of all ihi: world, in defiance of the Agrarian outrages and inub supremacy daily witiiL's.^cd and lanienled; and American spelling-books, diction- arit;s, nnd gianimar, teaching them an anti-British dialect, and idiom ; altho;l^l) living in a Province, and beiui; subjects, of the British Crown.. (iKOLOCiY. Tiesidos flip iron which bus already been discovered in the Province, valuable Hpcciinona of trad ur(> have been found in the County of Uuii- dns — ill the towiusliips ol" Clinton and Madoc — viens of coal have been loiind in •.'.ikrltm and utiior paiis-gyjisum is met with in inexhaustible qurintitioi — .alt springs .strongly satur.ited are numerous — and g'>me sulphuroiirt springs have also been found, one of great strength in the township ot Ancasfer. In ilio township of Woodliouse, near Port Do- ver, I hero is a creek, called Sinking Creek, which has a subterraneous conr>cnfa mile or two, and after oozing again from the bowels of the eartli. iis.try and ])erstverance to convert tlieni to the useful purposes of life." - REPORT OF THE SELECT CX)iMMITTEE, OP THE LKOISLATIVK COUNCIL ON TUE SALE OP CUOW N LANDS. The (Jonnnittee have thought it expedient to call before them certain persons resident in diflerent parts of the Proviiice, in order to gain as extensive information as is practicable, and at the same to put the Le- gislative council in possession of such facts and opinions as might tend to throw light on the important subject of enquiry. The result of the investigation has had the effect, in no small degree, to strengthen the opinion formerly entertained by the committee that the present system pursued by his Majesty's government, in the disposal of public lands, and settlement of the Province, is not one well calculated toattract either the wealthier class of emigrants who visit the Colony in search of a permanent abode for themselves and friends, or of those settlers pos- sessed of more limited means who annually press forward to the west- ern States, contrasted as it naturally is, with the more favorable terms afforded for location by the Government of that country. There, al- though public sales have hitherto taken place before applicants were permitted to make their locations by private bargain, yet such is the celerity and simplicity of all the arrangements for the settlement of these extensive territories, that an emigrant may proceed to one of their land offices, make a purchase, and receive his patent from the Government in one half of the time consumed by his friend who lingers in Upper Canada, waiting the uncertain issue of a public sale, or pri- vate application for purchase from the Government, of some lot or tract of land, which he might desire for his future residence. It is true that the accommodation which a credit of five or ten years affords to persons of straightened circumstances, may be regarded as a beneficial indulgence on the part of the Government. But when the high upset price, with accumulating interest, is taken into consideration, together with the fact, that but a small number of the purchasers are found able to pay the instalments as they become due, it may be asked if the ulti- mate prosperity of the people themselves would not more certainly be secured, ifcredit sales were altogether abolished, and such an abate- ment ofthe valuation made as would induce multitudes of emigrants, and other settlers possessed of immediate means, to take uo allotments who now flock to settlements much more remote from market, and where neither the soil nor climate is preferable to millions of acres at the disposal of Govtrnment in this Province? High upset prices es- % \.} . 3 do. 1 do. - •» 8 Ridings, 1 do. - - 1 city, 1 do. - - 6 Towns, 1 do. - - For British Supremacy and Monarchical Institutions, For Republicanism and Elective Institutions, Conservative majority, HOUSK ov AdtiKMBLlr. j4 Ridings of York, Morriaun, M(J* jlntosh, Gibson, Thom(>8ou. Toronto, Drapor. Simcoe, Robinson, Wickins. Niagara, Richardson. iRidinga of Lincoln, Woodrufl',Ry- kert, McMicking, Thorburn. Hamilton^ Ferrie. Wentworth, McNab. Aikmaii. H(dton, Chisholm, Shade. Norfolk, Rolph, Duncombe* Ilahlimandy Merritt. Oxford, Duncombe, Alway. Middlcai'x, Parke, Moore. London, Burwell. li'entf McCrae/ Cornwall. Essex, Prince, Caldwell. Huron, Dunlop. 3. 8. 1. 6. 44. 18. -26. Ldat of the Clergy of the Eatabliahed Church of Scotland. TORONTO. Amherstburgh, George Cheyne, Aldborough, Alex. Ross, Zorra, Donald McKenzie, Gait, John Bayne, Guelph, James Smith, Fergus, and Nichol, vacant St. Thomas, vacant. Aocaster, M. Y. Stark, Hamilton, A. C. Gate, Niagara, Robert McGill, Thorold, Angus Mcintosh, Esquesiog, Peter Fergusson, Oakville, -i— Murray, Streetsville, Wm. Rintou), Toronto TonHiship, Andrew Bell, Caledon, — McMillan, Toronto city, W. T. Leach, Vaughan, P. McNaugbton, Newmarket, Henry Gordon, Scarborough, James George, W. GwilHrosbury, Wra. McKilican, KINGSTON. Cobourg, James Alexander, Peterborough, John M. Roger^ Olanabee, A. Colquhoun, BelUville, James Kitchen, Kmgston, John Machar. bathurst. Brockville, — Campbelf, Perth, Thos. C. Wilson, Bytown, John Cruikshank, Ramsay, — Fairbairn, Smiths Falls, George RomaR«9, Beckwith, ~ Smitb, Perth, Wm. Bell, OLENGARRY. Cornwall, Hugh Urquhart, MartmtowD, — Connell, Williamstown, John McKenzie, Lancaster, A. McNaughton,. Lockiel, J. Mclsaac APPENDIX. 267 r/ift of tht Clerfry of the kpinopal Church of Upper Canada, The Hoiiorulile uiid Kight Reverend Charles jnmes Stcwarl, D. D. Lord Bishop of (Quebec. The Venerable George O'Kill Stewart, L. L. D., Archdeacon of Kingston. The Honorable and Venerable John Strachan, D. D., L. L. D., ArchdcRcoM of York. Domestic Chaplain, Reverend Samuel J. Lockhart. ENDOWMENT ENDOWMENT. No. Acres. No. Acres. Geo. Archibald, Cornwalli John Anderson, Fort Eriet A. N. Bethune, Cobourg, Robert Blakey, Prescolt, E. J. Boswell, Dalhousie, Mark Burnham, St. Thoma!>, Cochrane, Belleville, 410 4(H) 400 450 400 400 418 Thomas Creen, Niagara, 400 James Clarke, St. Catharines, 400 James Coglan, Port Hope, 436 Job Deacon, Adolphustown, 164 Francis Evans, Woodhouse, 1302 Saltern Givins, Mohawk, 400 John Grier, Carrying Place, 400 G. R. T. Grout, Grimsby, 400 W. H. Gunuing,Elizabethto\rn 400 Michael Harris, Perth, 400 William Leeming, Chippawa, 400 J. G. B. Lindsay, Williamsburg400 John Miller, Ancaster, 400 James Magrath, Toronto^ 400 Thomas Fuller, Chatham, 400 William Macauley.Hallowell, 400 Henry Patton, Oxford, 450 Romaine Rnlph, Osnabruck, 400 Rodgers, Richmond, Joseph Thompson, Cavan, 40^ Samuel Armour, Peterborough,400 D. E. Blake, Adelaide, 400 B. Cronyn, London, 1892 B. Delroche, Brockville E. H. D'Olier, Peterborough, 400 W. Johnston, Sandwich, 400 P. Mayerhoffer, Markham, 20a G. Mortimer, Vaughan, 105 P: Mack, Amherstburgh, J. Padfteld, March, 400 A. Palmer, Guelph, 413 W. Bettridge, Woodstock, 400 R. Hood, Carradoc, 435 Thomas Phillips, Etobicoke, 205 R. D. Cartwright, Kingston, J. Radclifle, Warwick, 400 J. Short, Richmond, 400 Henry J. Grassett, Toronto Usher, Barton, John Strachan, C. Toronto, James Atkinson, Bath, G. O'Kill Stuart, Kingston, 400 800 400 700 J. G. Geddes, Hamilton, R. Lugger, Mohawk Village, Nelles, I. M. G. River. 40O W. McMurqay, I. M. St. Marie, Adam Elliott, Travelling M. O'Neill, T. Missionary Harper, T. Missionary, and a T. Missy, in L. District. There are also other endowments for Churches not yet erected : 400 in Tliorold, 300 in Loulli,250 in Piedericksburgli, 400 in Ernest 1, 400 in Willian)9burgl<,400 in Goulbourn and Filzroy, 415 in ,J^I ll ment ; and althougn tlie iiovernmeni recogni^te uiu cAn«;iiuii ui u^.c in the Lower Province by the Catholic priesthood from their respective congregations, yet a great deal of discreditable clamour was got up- by villainous demagogues in this Province, in consequence of the above small reservation ; as if, forsooth, the endowment of a church was the establishment of a tithe ! The only subject for regret was that 268 APPENDIX. the Presbyterian church. Scotland being nn intoprnl pnrtofthn Briti^b dominions, was not similarly endowed : those who n'C as conversant with the political character of Daniel O'Connell, as myself, know that it has been one of his most (larliticr objects and favorite scliemes, tbe establishment of glebes for the Catholic priesthood in Ireland. I am, as I have always been, strongly oppof^ed to that connection between the Church and iStatc wliich teaches the former to rely more on the latter for support, than to its own usefulness and the alfection of the people ; nevertheless, a decent maintenance of tlie Clerr^y, fiom a source which imposes no tax upon the people, is well calculated to curb the ambition of Ecclesiastics in their pursuits of dignities, and would strip religion itself of those meretricious appendages that have beenit"- passport to the favor of the world. The CatlioVic Church in this ProvlncH is presided over by the Hon. and Rt. Rev. Alexander Macdonell, D. D. Lord Bishop of Kmgslon, Kt. Rev. Remigius Gaulin, D. D. Bishop of Tabrncra. The very Rev. VV. P. Mncdonald, Vicar General, Bytown. The vory Rev. Angus Mncdonell, Vicar General, Sandwich — and 20 Priests, In addition t(T the fullowing statement, there are at present 35 churches, and in course oforoction: Churches at hnmilton, Paris, Wa- terloo Township, in the Newcastle District, and in the Home District. Bishop Macdonell has loni; desired to erect a Collej^e fur the education of youth for the Priesthood, on a beautiftd and commanding piece of ground, skirted by a fine grove of lofty and majestic pines, overlooking the town and suburbs of Kingston, together with the St. Lawrence and lake Ontario^ and their lovely inlands. CLERGY. Very Rov. Dr. Macdonald, Rev. Jno. Ca^ion of Adjalo. V«u^fi>in, Albion. Adj-ilo, Tonim.eil), Mono, Caledon, Chir.;?u3couBy, and Gnro (»f ruronto, iv/o rhurcltt;!). Mi.-^sion of ill,) Tnwnships r.f Toronto and Trafalgar. Toronto, Trafalgar, Nolson. NaHsojiowoya, Eerjuosin^, Mission of Pcncfanguiyhlnn. Oro, Orilla, Tiny. Tay, Medonte, Flos, Vespra, Simnidale aod Coldwalor, Gore District — Mission of GiieJph and Dundas. Wentworlh, Fl9inh«»ro', Dumlrics, Beverly and Waterloo, two churches, NiafTora District — Mistsion of IKiagara. Niagara, Haldimand, Lincoln, and Norfolk, two churches, liondon District — Misr.ion of London and St. Thomas. Ynrmouth, SoutliwolJ, VVestminHtor, London, Lobo, Carrndoc, Ade- laide, Goderinli and St. Thomas, twochurcboi, Western District — Mission ofth.: Rii^cr Thames. Camdan, Chatham, Dover, Sombra, Kiver Sr. Clair, Tilbury E. and VV. (2c) Mission of Sandwich. Rochester, Maidstone, and Sandwich, Mifision of Amhcrsthvrfrh. The Huron reserve, lownshijis ol Maldon, Colchostor, Gosfield, Mcrsea and Rotnney, 269 3.6-13 4,163 8,584 3,240 2.356 785 85G 1,537 2,040 3,536 «,G00 4 Tl\ a.r.KO The London and Gore Rail Road. There are "aw projects afloat tiiroughout the Province, so likely to prove advantai^eous to the country, and profitahle to those who carry it into efTect, as the Rail Road from llaniilton. at the head of lake On- tario, to London. It would ensure the trade ot' the Western and I^oti- don Districts heintj carried to lake Ontario, insieatl of heing diverted by the Erie canal from ii altogether : it would p;iss thioii^di the rich and flourishing towns and townships of Ancaster, Hraiitford, Heech- ville, Ingersoll, Oxford, to London, BO miles from Hamilton; thence to Chatham on the lovely Thames.TOtniles tiniher ; and iinally termi- nate at Sandwich, 58 miles farther on the west; passing through the most prolific portion of the Province, inducing travellers to the far west, to take Up their location on the route, (rom the unequalled advantages it unfolds to their view. Any individual looking at the map will find that Kingston, at the extremity of lake Ontario, is nearly on a parallel with Sandwich, on lake St. Clair, taking Hamilton in the intermediate dist- ance ; and since Utica has been connected with Albany by rail road, the saving of time ftom New York to the west, to the traveller, by this .>'■ m *ft: 270 APPKNDIX. roulo, would be at least three days. The Province of Upper Canada ought to be greatly interested in its completion. Timber Tradc^ taken from the Report oj the Committee. In 1835, the amount in tons of exports from Quebec, was 540.254, value sterling c£" 1, 037,287. In the ye.ir 1829, there were cleared from the Province 1005 vessels, measuring 253,992 tons, manned by 11,449 seamen, of which Cleared for the United Kingditm^ 745 vessels, 220,066 tons, laden with timber, 54 do 13,302 tons, goods. Cleared far other parts, — 206 vessels, 20,624 tons, laden with tim- ber, fish, flour, provisions, &c. In 1825, there were cleared 1266 vessels, measuring 341,216 tons, manned by 14,808 seamen, of which cleared for the United Kingdom^ 967 vessels, 305, 571 tons, laden with timber; 56 do 15,015 do goods. Cleared for other parts, 213 vessels, 20,630 tons, with timber, f.sh, &c. In order to estimate the loss that would result from the blow aimed at the trade, your committee have endeavored to ascertain the value of the property embarked in it The information received varies a good deal but (he amount of capital permanently invested is probably not overra- ted at j[^l-;)'),()0ij. One of theg-ntlemen applied to has transmitted a I st ol the various saw mills in Upper and Lower Canada, whose pro- duce js exported from the St. Lawrence; and of the lumber establish- mcMls and t^Iiip-yards in Q,uci)oo, apparently compiled with care and accuracy, which he valiins as lollows : t'y,\\\' mills estimated to cut anmmlly 3,000,000 pieces of deals i^316,700 Lumber and ship building establishnjents, 120,000 the value of river craft estimated at 12 to £20,000, assume it to be 15,000 And the total value of property pormitnently engaged in the business may be stated at X15l,700 currency ; the capital engaged in this branch of trade differs from that in many others ; it cannot be with- drawn or divertrd into other channels without a heavy sacrifice, and in the event 'if the propose " Iteration in the duties taking place, your committee entertain no douut that a gn;at part of the property must be- come ofliitli! valnr, and the amount invested in saw mills, booms, &c. would be nearly a total loss. The numhi'r of persons in these Provinces who derive their subsist- ence, directly or indirectly, by manufacturing, transporting and ship- ping lumber, is es(in;ated at iwenty-four thousand, amongst whom a large a.nount is yearly disti ihuted in wnges and provisions, and all the accounts transmitted to your committee, concur in stating that the ciirtailiiitMit of the trade would be most severely felt by these people, there being no occupation in the country to which they could immedi- ately betake themselves. Your comniittee are warranted in estima- tiiitr the amount of ship's disbursements for pilots, labourers, ship car- penters and other tradesmen, at the ports of (Quebec and Montreal, at i^ 150,000 per annum, and the L)ss thereof or the proportion consequent on the great decrease in the number of shipping arriving at these ports, would ho severely felt by the resident population. Your committeare of opioion that the timber trade is further of essential service to these Provinces, by afVording the means of cheap conveyance from the fJni- AppENbrx 2li ted kingdom, and thereby promoting emigration, and to the emigranf.f themselves equally serviceable^ in addition to cheap conveyance by providing employment for them at good wages immediately on their nrrival, whereby many obtain funds for the purchase of lands which their previous occupation has fitted them lo clear. Nor would the injury to the Province, arisii^ from the diminution of this branch of basiuess, be confined to the effectual stop which it would put to emigration from the United Kingdom to this Province, it would extend to all classes of the community. The information furnished to your committee clearly proves, that in many parts of the Province, and more particularly iii the Districts of Uuebec and Three Rivers, the small farmers largely depend for their subsistence during winter, as well as for the purchase of seed corn, on the pioduce of their logs, and that when failures of crops have occurred, the distress without this resource must have been very great. Your committee further submit that the trade is of great service to the Province, by the inducement which it holds out to the formation of settlements in the distHDt parts of the country by opening roads, diminishing the expense of clearing forest lands, and affording to the farmers a market for their surplus produce at their own door. Some idea may be formed of ihe House of Assembly which Sir F. Head dissolved, from the fact of 7 of their number having given the following vote on the Timber Trade : Resolved, That it is incumbent on this House as the representatives ofthepeopleof Upper Canada, to urge upon his Majesty's ministers^ the great importance of continuing the protective duties on the timber trade of these Provinces— and to point out the ruinous consequences that must result to this most important branch of our commerce, should these duties bo reduced in favor of foreign importations into the United Kingdom. Yeas, 32. Nays, Messrs. Duncombe, Durand, Hopkins, Macken- zie, McMicking, Morrison, Thorburu, 7. The question of amendment was carried in the affirmative by a ma- jority of 25. INDIANS. I had long felt an earnei^t desire to witness the Indians at their de- totions, and takingadvantage of the beautiful state of the weather, and the excellent sleighing, I made one of a party, in company with the Messrs. Suters, on Sunday, Feb. 14, to the Mohawk Church, near Brantfurd. The Mohawk Indians are a portion of those tribes of In- dians, who came over to the Province from the United States, when the latter separated from the Mother Country, they possess, therefore, double claim on the attention and respect of the Government. The Church in which they worship in the Mohawk village, is a frame build- ing surmounted by a spire, it is situated on the very verge of the Grand River^ and from its being pairjied white, may be seen from the high grounds above the river* for a considerable distance, and forms, togeth- er with the windings of the river, audits well wooded banks, a very picturesque scene. The Indians paid the greatest attention to the ser- vice, the sermon was interpreted to them, sentence by sentence, by an interpreter, an Indian, who was stationed by the Clergyman, and also ,•1, fM 272 APPENDIX. ucted as clerk. The squaws sung the hyiiis very sweetly hikI harmo* fiiously, atid the whole service was well calculated tu produce a pow* ^rful eiuotion. The British government have done, and are still doing-, all they can to instruct, e4evate, civilize them. On observing the King's Arras at one end of the Church, I could not suppress a wish, which rose spontaneously in my heart, that there they might long re- main a shield and protection to the unfortunate Indians, who, in their ardent love and attachment to (ireat Britain might cause the blush of shame to mantle in many cheeks, and who duly j»nd properly estimate and appreciate the fostering, sustaining, parental, protecting Ciovern- ineni to whom they are so intiiTiately allied. At the close of the ser- vice an infant was brought to the altar to be baptized, it was swathed up in a basket cradle formed like a canoe, with a hoop at the top by which the child is rocked in an upright position. It wiis gaily bedizen- ed with trinkets, and clad in scarlet and blue. I'he partnts were de- cently attired, and seemly properly impressod with this first and most indispensible of Christian rites. After service we glided along mer- rily in our sleigh, and dined at the tavern of Mr. Lovejoy. I was so much gratiiied with this visit, that 1 made one of another party, on Sunday, Feb. 28th, to the Tuscarora village. We left the village of Ancasterat eight o'clock, the thermometer being then, only 4 degrees above zero, although the morning was bitterly cold, the sun shone bright, the atmosphere without a cloud, and the sky of the most lovely blue. The sleighing was superior to any thing I had ever witnessed before during three winters. The road to this village is ten miles from Ancaster, on the same route as that to Brantford, but on coming to FairchiUi's creek, the road turns off to the left, before passing over the new bridge erected over that creek on the Mohawk road. The road then winds for some distance along the banks of that creek passing some of the finest liats I have seen in the Province, the timber covering them being of the best quality and largest growth — maple, beech, elm, oak, hiccory, and cherry, interspersed occasionally with pine. After pursuing this course through the wood a few miles, we came suddenly on the banks of the Grand River, which are hero not very high, but perpendicular, the windings of the river can be seen both above and below for some distance. A mile and a halt further is the Tuscarora village, consisting of several log houses, a large school house, also used as a Church. Tha country here is very extensively and excellently cleared on both sides of the river for a considerable distance : the al- luvial flats on the banks of the river are cultivated with Indian corn and the uplands with wheat, rye, and other grain. 'J'he settlement here eeems very flourishing and creditable to them. I regret much ihnt from my first arraiittemunt, as wall oh from the hurry nnd incon- venience of publishing a work in a now^tpajjer olfico, in thu short space of six woKks; I amprei-.ludod from giving a masdof m.utor which I h/ive oolleotod relative to the PostOlRce— Press— Criminal StutidlioB— KinjBislon & Toronto Hoapitai Reports- Extent of Travelled Roadd—Advico lu Pour i:migranti — Indians, &c. &c. should this account, however, meet iho approbation uftho public, I will either give ihoso piriicol irs in a supplumunt, or in a now udiiiun, leaving out the few chapters on tb« West ludied. i i ■ ^ fttPPLEHIEIVTART ACCOVIVl'^ INDIANS. 1 have stated in my account of the TuscarorA settlement, that thi Vcountry was extensively and e::cel!enlly cleared on both sides of the Eiver, the printer forgot to insert, entirely by the Indians. They holi their service in the School-hou^c at present, but a spacious Church it in progress of erection. The Christians of the Mohawk and Tuscarora tribes, located on this river, belong to the Episcopal Church of Eng- land. The pastor, of the latter tribe, the Rev. Mr. Nelles, is the son of a very old settler in the Province, and is a young man of exemplary deporlment, and unassuming manners, lie informed me that there were about 2,300 Indians belonging to the Six Nations, and that the greater portion of them were still Pag.in, preserving their several rites, observing ihcir quarterly festivals, and sacrificing annually a white do^. It would seem, from the periods, sf^lectcd fur tlieir festivals, that they worship the sun, as the .-ource of fertllily iand light. IVfr. Nelles read the prayers with much fluency, in the ]NIohawk language. He intro* duced me, after service, It^ the Chief of the Seneca tribe, who is call- ed the Fire-keeper, whose province it is to light their council fires, and without whose authority a council cannot be convened ; he wasa most venerable looking, white haired old man, of tall stature, distinguished by a black hat, broad ribbon, and blue coat ; cloth leggins cased his lower limbs, and on his feet were the light moccasins of deerskin, or- namented wiih porcupine quills. He had not himself embraced Chris- tianity, but advised all those, over whom he had any influence, to at- tend and listen to the instructions of the Christian teacher. His re- luctance to embrace its doctrines, arose from his disinclination to fol- low its precepts, by abandoning the doctrine of polygamy, which he practised. Mr. Nelles is principally supported in his interesting labors by a society established bs far back as the reign of Charles II. for the express purpose of civilizing and p'opogating the gospel among the Indians. The Indians had also given him fifty acres of tine land, for a glebe, on whiih he has erected a very comfortable habitation, situated on the banks of the river, and in the midst of them, in order the bet- ter to prosecute his praiseworthy undertaking. The Mohawk Indians have preserved the communion plate given to them by Queen Anns, part of which is kept attl:e Mohawk village, and the remaning portion at the Mohawk settlement, in the Bay of^Uuintc. Mr. Nelles regret- ted that his interpreter, whom he described as an intelligent man, was absent, having accompanied a deputation of the Indians to Toronto, to present a loval and congratulatory address to Sir F. B. Head, the new Governor. A catechist, of whom Mr. Nelles also spoke very fa- vorably, addressed them in their own language with considerable flu- ency, bis expressive gesticulations seemed an earnest of his fervor ana seal. Some of the Indian youths are receiving a course of iastructioil* la the Mohawk village, from proper teachers, in the Eoglisb lanftM^^ 5a f1 I'- if i I BtJPFLEMElfTART ACCOUIfT. ttill maintaining sufficient intercourse with the Chiefs and amongst them- selves, as to retain a perfect knowledge of the Indian language, whilst the great object is strictly attended to, their complete attainment of the English. Amongst the numberless acts of beiievolence with which the Hon. Mr. Dunn's career has abounded, he has undertaken to be the guardian of six youths, carefully selected from amongst the In- dians, who are to be educated at that invaluable institution, tlie Upper Canada College, for the sacred character of Indian Missionaries. — They will be under his immediate, personal surveillance. Greatly to his honor, he has always token the most warm and lively interest In the welfare of the aborigines of the country. The squaws were more elegantly decorated with trinkets and finery than those we had seen at the Mohawk Church. They sang very harmoniously, and it was really a most affecting scene to witness the intense devotion of these red men •nd women, raising their voices in loud canticles to their great Crea* tor, io the following appropriate and pathetic hymn. Blest is the tie that binds Our hearts in Christian love : TThe fellowship of kindred minds Is like to that above. Before our Father's throne We pour united prayers, Our hopes, our fears, our aims are ons^ Our comforts and our cares* We share our mutual woes. Our mutual burdens bear, And often for each other flowi The sympathyzing tear. Mr. Nelles informed me that the Church was thinly attended that €ay. Usually a large number of Pagan Indians frequent the service^ and even join in it ; but the day being so beautiful, and the river firmly frozen, and perfectly smooth, with a coat of snow on it, many of the Indians were enjoying their different games on the ice, some racing, some throwing sticks at a mark, at a long distance, and other amuse- ments peculiar to the winter solstice, which is, indeed, a period of great merriment with them. The Mohawk language is understood by the whole Six Nations ; the vernacular language ofthe tribes, peculiar to themselves. On this account, Mr. Nelles was using his utmost endea- vors to acquire a perfect knowledge ofthe Mohawk language, and ac- commodating himself to the habits, customs, m tnners, and prejudices ofthe people, amongst whom he is so worthily engaged. It is gratify- ing to reflect that the British Government are, at lengtl), quite sensible that the proper method of reclaiming the Indians from their savage state, is that recommended by St. Paul, *'being all things to all men) to win some to Chri.«;t," and uniformly adopted by the persecuted and calumniated sons of St Ignatius, whose unwearied labors amongst ihe savage tribes, were always abundantly crowned with success : their tstoTiishing exertions in South America in converting the Indians mto %uiet, industrious, temperate people, cultivating the S6il, teaching ir BUPPLEMEIfTART AOCOCNT. them a knowledge ofmany mechanical arts, together with a duersens* of reiigiiui, ^'wliose ways are ways of pleasantness, and h!1 herpathf are peace,*' causing it to shed its benign influence over their peaceful lives, are enduring monuments of their piety and patience. This happy state of things was brought about by their assidtiity and zeal, and the nurration, interesting and beautiful as it is, is rendered doubly 8o, ill its relation, by that extraordinary and eminent genius Chateau- briand, and the elegant and piouA iMuratori. The entertaining narra- tive impressed my mind too powerfully to allow me to j)nss it unno- ticed, and induci s me to observe- that great praise is duo to tlio.se pas- tors, like Mr. IS'elies, who, by unwearied assiduity, an! their ow» ex- emplary lives and convoronlion are so well calculated to convert a savage race of beings from lieathtMiism to Christianity, and by uni- formity of conduct, continue to preserve both their rthijion and them- aelves in the esteem of their convt^rts. The Catholic Prii'sthood in the Lower Province, and on the iled River settloment, have been cxtreUiG- ly zealous and successful in their exertiaia aniongst the Indians, an example worthy of imitation, and amounting to an incontrovertible proof that nature, in her most degenerate state, may be reclaimed by tboaa who are sincere in their enct-avore, gentle in their manners, and consistent in the ffpncial tenor of their behaviour. And it is to be ex- pected, and certainly most ardently to be wished, that their natural fondness for war and slaughter, may in time be more eflfectually sub- dued, their natnral impetuosity softened and restrained, and their minds weaned from their unhappy attachment to the use of strong liquors— a curse entailed on them by their white brethren — their indulgence in which is frequently attended with tl>e mo?«t melancholy and fatal con- sequences. It is certainly singular that thousands of pounds fihould be annually squandered away, in a variety of professed philanthropic schemes, and yet in our own immediate vicinity, Pagan IntHans ara ofl'ering up bloody sacrifices, on whom, by kind instruction, and proper means, the best impressions might be made. Ea aub oculis positanf gligimus: proximonimincuriosi, hnginqua »edamur. Interested, pow- ei fully, by my visits, I made another in the month of September, and continued strolling about the banks of the river, until the close of day. the scenery was exquisite ; as I was about leaving, the sky was al- ready waxing grey, and a small twinkling spot of gold here and there proclaimed approaching darkness, tivaX subdued landscape which th» British poet so feelingly describes : "Now fades die glimmering landscape on tiie sight, And all the air a Kolemn stillness holds." The purple and grey mingled into one dim tint, and star after star came out brighter and brighter, until it became cumpletely night. I affreed with some men to row me in a canoe, to Bryant^s tavern, and was much charmed with the excursion. The moon was just at her highest noon, and the sky was beautifully bright, except that ever and anon, a mass of fine fleecy clouds-whichr^yfnend Robert Boomfie^ dose ibed as ''the beauteous semblance of a flock at rest"--flit ted over the lovely orb, like a veil, screening her in soft and modest ^^f^ &o» tacriiUiji gaae. The beauteous river, gleaming Uk« melted saw. W •Jl f 1 5' I iUPPLEMElVTART ACCOtJTff. H'om fts delightful eflfulgence, ehowo high and broken banka, •everedt with dark majestic pines, whose swarthy limbs cast a deep shadow ftthwart the stream, the only interruption to that sheeny brightness re« fleeted from the moon. The cleared portions of tho country exhibited in their rich undulations, over which the eye was carried a great dist- ance, a fine contrast, as the moonbeams fell covering these acclivities with soft and silvery light, whilst the opposing slopes were cast into dark broad shadow. The whispering of the light breeze among the tree tops, in the groupes of islands, scattered throughcMit the river, and the paddle of the oara of the canoe, the athletic figure of the Indian •een occasionally at the head of his prow, by nder and helpless, the council fire glared on the wise and daring. Now the ln«* dians dipped their noble limbs in the peaceful basins of this lovely river, and now they paddled their light canoe along its shores. Here they warred; the echoing whoop, the bloo in the star that sunk in beauty behind his lonely dwelling, in the sacred orb that flamed on him from his mid-day throne ; in the flower that snapped in the morning breeze, in the lofty pine that defied a thou* sand whirlwinds ; in the timid warbler that never left its native grove, in the (earless eagle whose untired pinion was wet in clouds ; in tho worm that crawled at his foot, and in his own matchless form, glowing with a spark ofthatlitrht to who^e mysterious source he bent, in hum* ble though blind adoration. But all this has passed away. Across the ocean came a pilgrim bark, bearing the seeds of life and death. The former were sown for us, the latter sprang up in the path of the simple native. Two hundred years have changed the character of a great continent, and blotted forever from its face, a whole peculiar people. Art has usurped the bowers of nature, and the anointed children of education have been too powerful for the tribes of the ignorant. Here and there, a stricken few remain, but how unlike their bold, (untamed, untameable progenitors ! The Indian of falcon glance and lion hear- ing, the theme of the touching ballad, the hero of the pathetic tale is J [one I and his degraded offspring crawl upon the soil where he walked D majesty, to remind us how miserable is man when the foot of the leoq[ueror it on bis neck. As a race they have withered from the Uod^ tUrPLKMBflTAAT AOeOUIIT. Theh" nrrowt are broken, their springs are dried up, their cahiiM in the dust. Their council fire has long since gone out on the shora^ and their war cry is fast dying to the untrodden west. Slowly oni •adly they climb the distant mountains, and read their doom in ao- lumn^sseftinjjr sun, receding far behind the western cloud, which blot* it from our sight. They are shrinking before the mighty tide which is preHsing them away ; they must soon hear the roar ofthe last wave^ which will settle over them for ever. Ages hence, the inqiiisitive whil* man, as he stands by some growing city, will ponder on the structure of their disturbed remains, and wonder to what manner of person they belonged. They will live only in the songs and chronicles of Iheir cxtirminators, Let these be faithful to their rude virtues as men, and pay due tribute to their unhappy fate as people. Mr. Hodgson's re- flections are as pathetic and beautiful, as true. After paying a visit te the various tribes, he says — "I now bade a last adieu to Indian territo» ry ; and as 1 pursued my solitary ride through the woods, I insensibly fell into a train of melancholy reflections on the eventful history ofthia injured race. SovertMgns from time immemorial, of the interminable forests which overshadow this vast continent, they have gradually been driven, by the white usurpare of their soil, wiilrin the limits ^ their present precar»oa» possessions. One after another of their favor- ite rivers hos been reluctantly abandoned, until the range ofthe hunter is bounded bylines prescribed by h ations before the flood. Of others, not a trace remains but in tradi- tion, or the person of some solitary wanderer, the Inst of his tribe, who hovers like a ghost among the sepulchre of bis fathers — a spark still faintly glimmering in the ashes of an extinguished race. . . . It is not when we press into the wars of Christians, the tomahawk orscHlpiog knife ofthe Indians — it is not when, deluging his country with spiritu- ous liquors in the prosecution of an unequal trafRc, we send forth as a moral pestilence, before which the frail virtues ofthe savage fall, like the dry leaves of his forests in the blasts of autumn— it is not when thus engaged, that we either conciliate his aflections or elevate hie moral tone. The men who fertilize the moral wilderness and evangil- ize the heathen world, are animated by a higher spirit than the desire of conquest or the lure of gain." And surely we are bound, having participated in the wrongs inflicted on this injured race, to offer the noblest compensation in our power, by diffusing the blessing of moral and religious instruction, through the instrumentality of moral and re- ligious instructors, throughout the aborigines of the western world. For the first time in the annals of Upper Canada, or, indeed, 1 may add, British intercourse with the Indians, the House of Assembly, which was elected in this Province in 1^34, and happily for the Pron vuiee, dismissed by the determined indignation of an aroused ««id iat* i! \n\ In •irPPLEMEffTART ACCOU.tT. •vtteA people, whose interests tliey had moHt wantonly nnd wickedfy abandoned ; endeavored, nniongst the many quarrels they provoked, lo enlist the ludions in ditliculties with the Britisli government. It is generally believed that the unprincipled agitator, Mncken/.ie, was the fHrrncipal mover in the affair; how dilVeient from the Immnno an<} christian efforts of the Lion. Mr. Dunn in bphnlf of the ItidiauH. — Could not this restless deiriagogue be contented with diMturhing, n'is* tFBCting, cursing the farmers by his uareaHinar, pernicious" and pt'stiCer- wta interference, but that he must al.so endeavor (o divert the Jtidinna liroin their progressive improvement, to commence his trade and spp» culation of agitation amongst tlieni ? Did he wish, in the revel* Kngs of his depraved imagination, to see the scenes of (ienrgia and Florida enacted in Upper Canada? Wliether it was so or not, despite of the fiendish and diabolical machinations of speculating incendia- ries, the Indians still love and cherish the British government, and will not quickly be alienated in their attachment. The following docu- ments will show the exact state of the case, and I have the reader femake his own deductions. Mackenzie presented the following pe- tition of Thomas Splitlog t-nd seven others, the head Chiefs and war- riors of the Huron or Wyndoit nutionw of Indians, shewing : That frons time immemorial that nation has possessed wlxlmut interruption a tract ef land, seven miles square, lying between Sandwich und Amherst- bnrgh, and also an island called "Fighting Island," nearly opposite. That they have been unjustly deprived of the same by the Provincial government, which, at the instigation of George Ironside, superintend- ant and others, conceded to the half-breed Indians who had no claim thereon, these lands belonging to the proper Wynduts, and which were reserved to be enjoyed by them after the manners and customs of tbeir forefathers — that they have frequently applied to the Provincial government and were informed that these things were done with its consent, and their remonstrances were rejected— that one Thomas Paxtoii has taken possession of **Fighting Island,'.' from whose en- croachments they have not been protected by the King, whom they were always accustomed to consider their father and protector— that these lends were ceded to them by the Chippewas and others (the lake confederacy of Indians) and reserved at the sale of lands in th-9 Western district, for their use, with a special request that they might not be disturbed iu the possession of them — that in the year IBll, being aggrieved by the encroachments of the whites, they petitioned Lieut. Governor Gore, requesting his Majesty would givethem a deed in fee of their lands, who replied that this was impossible, as the Wyndots themselves had the better title, assuring them at the same time, that the King would always protect them in the possession of their lands— that they had peaceable possession ever since, till disturbed by Iron- tide and others of Amherstburgh — and that the government has broken through the usages and customs established by treating with the half* breeds, who only live on sufferance among them — that they are sorely grieved that the protecting hand of their great father the King has been withdrawn from them, which must have arisen, they think, from tho misrepresentations of some wicked persons, seeking only to destroy them— that memorialists area remnant of one of the great tribes of (he fttrPLfiMENTART ACCOOI^f. i»eftem world, who from fighting from time immemoriai against ttM enemies of their great father, are now reduced to a very tmall numbers that they have long since been converted to the christian religion, and witjih to reside near tlieir friends the white people; that they hav« daily examples in the United tStdlesoftlieir hrethren being driven into the wiideinesss iind htintcMl like the deer of tlie forest — but that until now they always had r.nUirieiit contidence in iheir great father to be- lieve that he would not tioai them as tiie red people were treated by the governuKMit of the Lliiitcd Elates ; that they havH no desire to desert the chiiHtinn religion, ami return to the cuHloms atid hribits of the hea- tlK'iis ; but that all their wish is, that their great father will leave them in the undisturbed possession of the little handful of land that belong* to them. Memorialists pray the House to represent, by address, their situation, to the Kinir their great father, and to request him to inter- fere in the proceedinij^s vi liiHptovincial government against them, and that he will prevent the said government fr IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.25 ■50 ■^~ jJii^H 12.0 UUu IU& ^ IlllJi^ HiotDgraphic Sciences Corporalion 23 WIST MAIN STRUT wnsTiR.N.Y. useo (716)872-4503 A \ ^ •s? \\ ^/^^ '<^ \ >«^ ^>^ »> ^ % ^ kv^rLEiiciftART Atrcoclrr. ttenthere might be prevented **froin wresting tbeir little ^ieee o^ Iad^ «way from them." We humbly request that your Excellency would give direction that there be laid before this House, all such documenta- ry and other evidence in the possession of the government or its offices Illative to the said Huron reserve or of the proceedings of the govern- ment had thereon, as would enable this House to ascertain whether iti fiirlher interference on the Wyandott Indians is required. M. S. BID WELL, Speaker, . Commoni House of Assembly, Feb. 15, 1836. HIS excellency's reply. Gentlemen — It is with great reluctance I feel it necessary to stai^^ tiiat without authority from the Secretary of State, 1 am unwilling td submit to the House of Assembly **the documents and other evidence in the possession of the government or its officers, relative to the Huroit reserve, or to the proceedings of the government had thereon, as would enable the House to ascertain whether its interference on behalf of thd Wyandott Indians is required.*' My objections on this subject, are tfioseof policy, rather than of law — and without denying the constitu- tional right of either of the two Houses of the Legislature to enquire iato any subj«ct in whtcli tUey may consider the public interests to be involved, I am of opinion that the disclosui© of documents and evidence •f the character alluded to, would be attended with evil r.onseqencee to those whom it is intended to benefit, by rendering the Indians doubt- ful of the all-sufficient and paternal protection of his Majesty, on which they have hitlierto solely relied. Without reverting to the anomalous history of (he aborigenes of this land, 1 will merely observe^ that in Upper Canada, the Indians have hitherto been under the exclusive care of bis Majesty, the territories they inhabit bemg tracts or crown lands devoted to their sole use as ^'His AlUies.^^ Over these lands hh Majesty has never exercised his paramount right, except at their request, and for their manifest advantage. Within their own commu- nities, they have hitherto governed themselves by their own unwritten laws and customs— their lands and property have never been subject fb tax or assessment, or themselves liable to personal service. As they are not subject to such liabilities^ nei)her do they yet possess the ]K»litical privileges of his Majesty's subjects generally. The super- intendents, missionaries, schoolmasters, and others who reside among them for their protection and civilization, are appointed and paid by tiie King— to his representative all appeals have until now been made# and with him has alt responsibility rested. In every respect they ap- pear to be most constitutionally within the jurisdiction and prerogative of the Grown, and as I declare myself not only ready but desirous to attend any complaint they may offer me ; I consider it would be highly impolitic (especially for the object of redressing a trifling grievance) to sanction the adoption of anew course for tbeir internal governments To this greneral view of the subject, I have only to add, that as regards tile particular memorial submitted to the House of Assembly by ThoR. Splttlog and seven others, ofthe Huron or Wyandott nation, a counter petition signed by elevea individuals of •imilar tribe and rank has beea inresented to the House, stating : ' «»Wr havs the fullcat eoofidence in the justice and faihcrly protpe* SVPPLEMBNTART ACCOVlfti lk)n of oil I' beloved Sovereign and his Representative the Lieat«iiigai Governor." The intense affection which the Indians bear the British governmenti was well tested in thie last war, and is in exact accordance with the in- teresting account given of the Morocco Indians by Capt. Alexandefi which he obtained from a Catholic clergyman, about to receive as ft reward, for his labour of love, the Episcopal ring and crosier. *'Irt 1830, there were from one hundred and fifty to two hundred families of* thes'j Indians scattered on the Pomeroon^ and on the creeks which fall into it, and into the sea on the Morocco coast ofEssequibo ; and though their existence there had been carefully Concealed from the British Governor by a Dutch Postholder, receiving British pay, yet it ap-* pears that they had emigrated frorii the Oronoco several y^ars b^i!lc« under very peculiar circumstances. Being essentially royalists, they took an early and decided part in the revolutionary vkrar which distract- ed their country. Every inducement which the love of liberty, licen* tlousness, or th6 love of money could suggest or inspire, was held out by the patriots as the price of their apostacy ; but true to the interests of their sovereign, they struggled, till the last strong hold was aban- doned by the European royalists, to uphold the declimng fortunes of their master. This devotedness brought down upon them a dreadful retaliation ; their priests were massacred, their villages plundered and fazed to the ground, and these forlorn beings, whose greatest crimQ was an attachment to the institutions which rescued them from barbar- ism, were driven from their comfortable homes, and the land they fer- tilized with the sweat of their brows, to seek a shelter amongst thd forests of Guiana. One wide desolation has since overspread these missions, and the Indians, assembled together with so much trouble* tire again wandering in the woods. It was but natural to suppose that, freed from every restraint, civil and ecclesiastical, they were much dt- teiorated in their moral and intellectual condition since their departure from the Oronoco. The temptations to idleness and profligacy which euch a state of life holds out, and the corrupting influence of the erra<« tic tribes with whom they were compelled to assort, are not easily with-- »tood. They yielded to them in a certain degree, but though degene- k'ated, it was easy to discover a degree of intelligence, and a refine- ment of feeling, which marked at once the early impress of civilization and religion. Happy at being tolerated, within the pale of a more en- lightened and settled government, they were eager to evince their grati- tude for the protection it afforded them ; they were likewise most anx- ious, but unable of themselves, to transmit to their children those bles- sings which elevated them in the scale of beings under the excellent and liberal administration of Sir Benjamin D'Urban. These advanta- ges, it is to be hoped, will be secured to »hem, and the Colony will be amply repaid for the patronage extended to them, in the attachment and fidelity of a grateful people." It is to be hoped for the sake of the loyal, well disposed, peaceable Indians of l/pper Canada, that they may long remain free from Mr. Mackenzie's interference in their "Wgard, for if that unfortunate day should ever arrive, it would be *o them as to all others, with whosc concerns he has intermeddled, a day eTwiiUnff and lamentation, and misery) strife, agitation, and desolatiaH 36 SJ 1(1 SUPPLEMENTARY ACCOUNT. ^ould inevitably supersede their present quiet, tranquil and improving condition. In the short account I gave of the township of Mulraur, page 189, I forgot to mention the superstitious veneration in which the exhausted volcano is held by the Indians, who used formerly to resort, in great numbers, to the spot, to celebrate their sacriflce. As Mono is now ra- pidly settling, it will not be a task of such great difficulty to get at the curiosity in Mulmur ; it would amply repay the geologist and miners-, legist, as well as the general lover of nature for their trouble. THE PRESS OF UPPER CANADA. There being no stamp duty in the Province, there are a great num- ber of Newspapers ; the proprietors, however, are subject to a trifling postage, wnich certainly ought to be borne by the receiver. ^, .i, , Eastern District^ — Cornwall Observer, Cornwall Argus. ■ .^, Ottawa District. — Bytown Gazette. Johnstown District. — Prescott Herald, Brockville Recorder, The Warder, the Constitution, Brockville. Bathurst District. — Bathurst Gazette. Midland District. — Belleville Intelligencer, Kingston Chronicle, U.C, Herald, British Whig, The Spectator. Prince Edward District. — The Traveller. . ."i Newcastle Districts — Cobourg Star, Cobourg Reformer, Fort Hope Gazette. Home District. — Patriot, Courier, Albion, Christian Guardian, C|ff9«» stitution. Correspondent and Advocate, Gazette. ^.i 2 Niagara District. — St. Catherines Journal, Chippewa Herald, Nu^ gara Reporter, Niagara Gleaner. Gore District — Hamilton Gazette, Hamilton Express, Hamilton Free Press, Dundas Post, Brantford Sentinel, Canada Muaeum, London District, — Freeman's Journal, London Gazette, St. Thom»9 Liberal. Western DtWri'c^— Canadian Emigrant, LONDON AND GORE RAIL ROAD. This magnificent undertaking, I trust, and believe, is likely to b6 accomplished, and thus secure to Montreal and Q>uebec, the gre«ta^ vantages of the trade of the North West— Illinois— Micbigaq— the beautiful region of Upper Canada to the West of Lake Ontario the navigation of the latter noble inland sea — and the value of the canal constructed round the St. Lawrence, which has already cost this Pro- vince £370,000, and which might as well be shot up, if the merchan- dize of the West were to be sent to New York by the Erie Canal. The route has been surveyed and found to be practicable and easy. LOAN AND TRUST BILL. ,, Mti^ I am happy to have an opportunity aflforded me, by the perusal oftbe draft of a bill, bearing the above title, and emanating from the Hon. Mr. Markland, to rectify an omission which was unintentional, iriieii speaking of the unswerving loyalty and attachment to British iostitu- tions which has always marked the character of the Hon. Messrs. uunn, Robinson, and Wells. No better proof could be required of the SUPPLEMENTARY ACCOUNT. solicitude of Mr. Markland to serve and benefit the Province, than the biii which I have mentioned, and which by its effectual assistance to large laodholders, would prove of incalculable advantage to thecountry» ADVICE TO POOR EMIGRANTS. Passage. Do not come out with the early spring ships, the weather is generally rough and cold, and the pasHage sometimes dangerous ; even in the beginning of July icebergs are met with on the banks of Newfoundland, and the weather more or less foggy. June is a good month to sail for Q,uebec Package. Pack up your necessaries in as little space as possible, in strongboxes of portable size, from 30 to 26 inches long, 18 wide, and 12 or 14 deep. Clean off the saw marks inside : leave the outside rough; put hinges and locks upon them, and leave as little overwood on the lid as possible, so as to prevent sailors from lifting by the lids, Cross bars on the lid outside ; the same on the bottom, xrhich will strengthen it, and keep it free from damp, should there be water splashing about. Provision. As you will be in the steerage, lay in provisions for nine weeks. 3 firlots of oatmeal, 8 lbs. of butter, ^ lb. of tea, 10 lbs. of sugar, a little salt, plenty of potatoes, some bottled porter, if it can be procured, 5 or 6 dozen eggs carefully packed in the meal, a pork ham or two to fry a few slices along with eggs. Remember your table furniture is to bo such as will not break with a fall — a small white iron tea pot and white iron basin, lar^e enough to hold a sufficient quantity of broth or pottage^ it will also serve for tea^-cup, the other for sugar basin : aepoon, a knife and fork, a salt cellar, a white iron pail, with a lid, to holda gal- Jon, this is to hold water which will be measured out to you, half a gallon a day. A pot to make the pottage, which will also do for tea'k'i^ttle. — Provide yourself with a small box of laxative pills, epsom salts, or castor oil, to take when needful, as the stomach will retain them. You will keep your eatables and their utensils in a box by themselves. Furniture and Clothing, You must have bedding on board. You need not expend much money in clothes, remember you have to stand heat and cold : a few suits of cotton ones for summer, and a few strong lastins ones for winter. Plaiding drawers and a fair supply of warm stockings : 3 or 4 pair of strong shoes, one good hat, summer hats be* ing cheap in the Province, a fur cap for winter. Your goods will be landed at Montreal, you will then apply to the agents of forwarders of goods and passengers, McPherson, Henderson ^ Co, are an excellent company : your baggage is then carted to their warehouse, where you will probably remain two days : you are allowed fire for cooking, and also room to lodge during the night. You are then sent to Prescott, a distance of 145 miles, costing you about 2s. sterling for ItK) Ibii. of lug- gage) and about 5s. for passage. The distance from Prescott to To- ronto is 26*2 miles, making in all 407. From Toronto there are steam* boats to Hamilton and Niagara, for the west. From Hamilton the coun- try leads to Dundas, Ancaster, Galt^ Guelph, Brantford, Woodstock,. London, &c. From Niagara to the Falls, Chippawa, thence to any part of the country bordering on lake Erie or on the Talbot Street* f' iV 1 ^yj* C,f..k_y^ 4 lUPPLEMEi'VTART ACC0t7?fT. Lakbb Omtahio and HuiioN— Hamilton, London and thr WeiY* My attenlion of late has been very forcibly dir«L*ted to ths abovo exci- ting topic, for to me, U really seems that the naYlgation of Lak« OntHrif* •nd the commerce of Montreal, stand in great jeopardy of bt ing sacri- ficed to the speculators of Buffalo and along ihe Erie Cannl. If the rail road runs from Detroit to Bertie, it is but a contintiation of the Erie canal, and the Michigan trade and tiavel will assuredly bn carried to it, whereas, if the trade of Michigan is carried by its natural rout« tlirough the very centre of the most fertile portion of the Province, it will ba brought into our own majestic Lake Ontario to be curried down the St. Lawrence to the Atlantic. I have conversed with many individuals aalo the routo, and find all are for taking it to London — and from thenco iome to Sandwich — and some to the new Town Plot on the river 8f. Clair. Through the kindness of Major Bowen, I have been favored With some memoranda which would point out the latter route as the most desirable. First: The government is now laying out a Town Plot in the township of Moore, on the river St. Clair, the size 400 acres, it is situated on the bend of a river, the Isle au Cerf, or Stag Iwlaud^ protecting it from the west — and the points of the Half Moun from the north and south winds. Batteries might be erected at either end of the island, securing it against attack — the stream is full, the water transpa« rent, and ships of 300 tons cannaviguto past it ; it is 3 miles bigh«r up than Palmer a County iseat in iHichigau, and 4 miles below Black River^ 55 miles Wi'st of London^ and 140 west of Hamilton at the Head of lake Ontario. The townships of Gnniskillen and Brooke lie to the East — jSombra to the South — Sarnia, Plympton, and Warwick to the north and north east, as reference to the map will show. It is halfway between Go- derich and Detroit. The American steamers pass daily, and touch when required. The Goderich steamer does so likewise. Having noticed its ceographical situation, let us proceed to consider its advantages. First. By continuing the projected rail road fiotn London to Corunna, through the townships of Adelaide, Brooke, and Enniskillen, it proceeds nearly ft direct west course, and turns the heads of the Bear creek and another pmall river, and avoids the low lands in the aforementioned townships. ^ecandf the passage by rail road being nt the rato of 15 miles an hour, from lake Ontario to river St. Clair would be 10 hours*^in nil l8 — which now takes, with every advantage, by way of Buffalo or Chatham, 3 and H half days. The river )s three fourths of a mile broad. Thirds they are now constructing a rail road from Palmer west to Romeo, another is also contemplated from Black River to St. Joseph on Grand River, com- pletely across Michigan, Corunna will be then central and answer for both. Fourth^ the dangerous navigations of lakes Erie and St. Clair, Would be both avoided — the debouchure of the liver St^ Clair into lake St. Clair, being particularly dangerous. From Palmer or Corunna, ves- sels of 3U0 tons may proceed to Chicago by lakes Huron and Michigan^ avoiding the aforesaid dangers, taking their produce or supplies direct t9 or from lake Ontario. Fifth, Corunna must be th<9 port of Plympton, they can have none on lake Huron. Sixth, Vessels suffering from bad Weather can lay up and repair ; Corunna will afford a safe harbour. iSfeoen/^,iOn the opposite side there are abundance of pine, and steam «a\«r VRilU. J^i^hth, On the river, floatiag saw and grist mills may b« con- BUPPLEMENtAtlY ACCOUNT. •)riict«d, at on the Danube nud the Rhine. The stream runs at the rat* of four and a h»lf miles an hour. Ninths the water on (he Canadian side is excellent. . 7VnM. the liind on the rirer St. Olair has risen 400 per cent, in value in 3 year^. Eleventh, abundnnce of fine oak timber for ahip building in the township of iVioore. Tweflth^ 3 years ago there werv only a few squatters on the river side in Moore, there are now 570 set- tlers. Thirteentky When a rail road connects lake Ontario and river St. Clair, a person mhy breakfaHt in New York on Monday and sup in Mi- chigan on Wednesday. Whether the rail road is to terminate at Sand- wich or Moore-— through LondoD) and from Hamillou, it must come. The following is the account of the Trials, Convictions, and Acquit* tals in the Province of Upper Canada, for Five years, viz. from 1830 to 1835, inclusive : / . For murder 47 : found guilty 17, acquitted 25 ; convicted of man- slaughter 5 ; for Sodomy 2, 1 convicted, 1 acquitted ; Rape 10, 3 convicted, 7 acquitted ; Bigamy, 1 convicted ; for assault 50, 37 con- victed, 13 acquitted ; Manslaughter 20, 6 convicted, 14 acquitted ; Malicious shooting 8, 2 convicted, 6 acquitted ; Riot 9, 5 convicted, 4 acquitted ; Conspiracy 3, 1 convicted, 1 acquitted ; for Felony 531, 30 convicted, 23 acquitted ; Arson 13, 4 convicted, 9 acquitted ; For- gery 25, 8 convicted, 17 acquitted ; for Libel 2, 1 convicted, 1 acquit- ted ; Perjury 17, convicted 6, 11 acquitted ; for Larceny 266, con- victed 180, acquitted 86 ; Burglary 6, 4 convicted, 2 acquitted ; Theft 5, 2 convicted, 3 acquitted ; for Horse-stealing 28, 23 convicted. Sac- quitted : Sheep-stealing 8, 3 convicted, 5 acquitted ; Robbery 2 con- victed ; for Misdemeanor 59, 33 convicted, 26 acquitted ; Nuisance. 11, 6 convicted, 5 acquitted, Extortion 1 acquitted ; for enticing sol- diers to desert 5, 3 convicted, 2 acquitted. POST OFFICE, UPPER CANADA. From all the information which I have been enabled to collect rela- tive to this department, I find that there were distributed through the post office department, in 1836, the following newspapers ; Provincial papers 178,065, U. States papers and others, not provincial, 149,502. The amount paid for the transmission of the above newspapers wa» «£1277 4s currency. The above statement, however, does not include those Provincial and American papers which are sent free, nor papers to and from Great Britain and Ireland, by the packets, which are also ■ent free. There are no accounts kept, any where, of the number of either, but from a calculation made, the lowest estimate of the number of papers transmitted free by the post in Upper Canada, exceed one hundred thousand per annum. The gross amount of postage paid by the printers or proprietors of newspapers in Upper Canada, for the transmission of their papers through the post, in 1835, was £639 8 10. The gross amount of letter posstage collected the same year was £20,- 890 currency. This includes the British postage on letters by the go- vernment packets, which is merged in the general postage collected in the Province and of which no separate account has ever been kept. The number of letters is not known by the post office accounts, but eupposing that the average postage amounts to 7d. c'y. each, and SUPPLKMENTART ACCOUNT. \, r I. h *: W •fe which I am informed is as near the mark as possible, then, bv «ueli an average the number sent in the year 1835, would be 716,^28.-^ Through the indefatigable exertions of Mr. Stayner to render the roost ample accommodation to British settlers in Upper Canada, a great augmentation has been made in the number of post offices. Irr fheyear ending 1835 there were 154. At this time, September 1836, in this province there are 195, being an increase of 41 in nine months. Would the rabid demagogue Mackenzie, who took such pains to ob- tain the situation of Deputy Post Master General to this Province, have discharged his duties like Mr. Stayner ? Does one of his own friends even believe that he would ? There are none that so believeth, no, not one. TORONTO HOSPITAL. The number of admissions for the year 1835, according to the last •rtnual return, commencing 2d of February 1835, and ending 1st of February 1836, appears to be 530, with 45 remaining from preceding year. Discharged curecl - . 423 ' Discharged relieved, - . 43 ' Discharged for irregularity, - - 4 Discharged incurable, • * f? ' Deaths - - - - ^ '"'' (Outofwhich7died within the first 48 hours, of typhus fever,) ^ Remaining on the books, - - 60 ■".*(?. ' During that year no less than 1800 outpatients received medical aid st the daily dispensary of the Institution, from 9 o'clock till 12. TRUSTEES. The Hon. the Chief Justice, The Hon. and Ven. the Archdeacon of York, The Hon. John H. Dunn, The Hon. G. H. Markland, '^; The Hon. W. Allen, " Christopher Widmer, Esq. r_ PHYSICIANS AND SURGEONS. C. Widmer, Esq. k_, -^ John King, M. D. John Rolph, Esq. - Robert Hornby, M. D. Apothecary, F. Wilkinson— Steward, Geo. Sinclair. ■ LAKE ONTARIO— WINDSOR BAY. The Province must direct its attention to the navigation of this noble lake, and it is well worthy of mature consideration whether it would not be advisable to open up that fine extent of fertile country stretching between the beautiful navigable waters of Sturgeon Lake and Windsor Bay, Whitby. The waters of the Scugog Lake and River, pass in their course from Sturgeon lake, bounding on the south west angle of Feaelon, through the whole of Ops, bordering on Maovers, inter- na ;?".'■ :-i- 5 Jin" •. t:; SUPPLEMENTART ACCOUNT. ■ecting Cortwright, and part of Reach, extending its tributary ramill- cations into Brock, Mariposa, and Whitby. The harbour of Windsor could be connected with this navigation, by a rail road, at the distance of 18 miles ; and to render the above extent of navigation immediately available, theie requires but one dam and lock below the present site of Purdy's mill. The benelit such a measure would confer on this section of the country would be immense, and as fine and fertik a country as can be met with, is that, bordering on the tributaries of the Scugog river and lake, the Non-can and cross creeks. In page 167, speaking of the extent of water commuuicatioa we ■houldhave said eighty instead of eight. LOWER CANADA. The matchless letters of Camillus, and the great exertions of the British population in Lower Canada, must have attracted, in no pow- erful a degree, the attention of the people to the state, condition, and resources of that Province. The Eastern townships, numbering 80, and forming altogether five millions of acres of land, are equal in soil, fertility, salubrity, climate, timber, water, and accessible communica- tion to any portion of Canada, and I trust from the character of its set- tlers, will tend more efiectually to consolidate that bond of aifection and mutual interest which ought to be felt, by every lover ot Great Britain in both the Canadas. The following very graphic and interesting ac- count of the formation of a new town in one of these townships, I have extfected from that respectable paper the Sherbro oke Farmer's Ad- vocate. VICTORIA. Thi-: name has besn given to a spot selected by the British Ameri- can Land Company for the site of a town, situate within the township of Lingwick, near the town line of Bury, bordering the falls of Salmon river, and distant about 36 miles from Sherbrooke. The road to the settlement has been cut out the whole distance, e ' to be passable for men on horseback. Some parts have been c« quieted, bat the whole line cannot be finished before next season. When completed it will undoubtedly be the finest road in the township, probably in Canada. The country through which it passes is principally covered with fine hard timber, with a wonderfully small proportion of inferior swampy land. Clearings of one or two acres occasionally meet the view, at short intervening distances, along the whole route, and stur- dy English settlers are to be seen, with their wives and children all bu- sily engaged in the several occupations of burning, logging, &c. Such as have arrived early in the season have tblerable crops of pota- toes, turnips, and some garden vegetables. Passing by one of those clearings, we suddenly and unexpectedly came upon two very fine well formed young women, cutting down some gigantic trees in a grove of maple, weilding their axes with a grace and agility which might have done credit to any axe-man in the country. We were iin- perceived by them, and had ample time to contemplate the graceful / i i i i" .4 . > IP I y::rr^, zi^-^.fj^rs'.-r' SUPFLBMCMTART ACCOUNT^ ttiovements of the two wood nymphs— having at length acot>ftted theftt# they dropped their axes in delightful confusion at being caught engHg<< cd in 80 maidenly an occupation, showed two beautiful faces covered with blushesand smiles, which commanded so much aduniration, that were it not for the circumstance of our being already bound in matri< mony fast as a church, it might have ended there is no knowing where. They were undoubtedly two very pretty girls, and it is under- •tood, that the sudden discovery of two such unsopiMsticated apeci- mens of native beauty in the forest acting in unconscionsnef^of being «een and admired, is infinitely more interesting than discovering the same in satin fetticuats, all bedecked and bedizened for public exhibi- tion. The men at work on the roads are divided into gangs of twenty or forty each. We had the pleasure of Hpetiding a night in one of the camps. The buildings consisted of two shanties covered with bark sloping to the ground, open above along the centra to let the smoke escape. Immediately below this opening an enormous fire made of logs piled upon one another, kept blazing all night, and nearly roasted us alive — fortunately had the left flank of a line of thirty-six bedfellows; kepf awoke half the night by discordant noises proceeding from a va- riety of those most unmusical instruments^ noses ; in the morning breakfasted on bread, beef-steaks, and tea without milk or sugar, boiled to the bitterness of bark in a six gallon pot, and served out in saucepans — discovered the cook to be a man of intelligence by the quality of his beef-steaks— on enquiry found that he had doubled Cape Horn, weathered the Cape'ofGood Hope, made sugar with th« niggers, escorted three hundred rogues to Botany Bay, was nearly eateo at tlie Nicobars, and trimmed the nabob of Arcot's whiskers. HAMILTON. It is with extreme reluctance I send this book to the public without its frontispiece — the view of A. N. McNab's elegant mansion, seen from Burlington Bay. When I obtain it from New York, I will be careful to send one for every copy, but to delay the issue of the work, any longer, would prevent its circulation in Great Britain, until the middle of next year, as I should be precluded from availing myself of the navigation of the St. Lawrence until next May, and the high duty, payable on books transmitted to Great Britain, through New York, renders the conveyance by that route, a serious obstacle. ^a P P V for ac ■4m •I Error— Page 212, West Flamboro', cultivated acrea 12,572, uncul' eivated acres 51,061. f ,0 BihVme from bouo., for '^^^^^^^^^ •ciee. ^, ... f(om top, ft « #*'^ *';,'*. '» ■•