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 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
capt. James Cook, ^Ji.s. 
 
Captain Cook's 
 
 ? E 
 
 rjTJJtD jnrn last 
 
 V O Y A 
 
 TO TXfM 
 
 V^CIFIC OCE^N, 
 In the Years Ajjd.ijjy, jjj&jjjp and i^ So, 
 
 FaitlifiiDj abridged fiom die Quarto Editimi 
 
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 His .M^J E S T Y. 
 
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INTRODUCTION. 
 
 T 
 
 _ H E fuccefles of His Majefty*s fliijps in 
 having penetrated into the inmoil reccifes of 
 the South. Pacific Ocean, will appear from a, 
 recital of their various extenfive operations, 
 which have fettled the geography of fo conli- 
 derable a part of the globe. 
 
 The feveral lands mentioned to have been 
 difcovered by preceding navigators, whether 
 Spaniihor Dutch, have been diligently fought 
 atter ; and moft of thofe which appeared to be 
 of any confequenee, found out and viiSted ; and 
 every method put in pra&ice to corredk former 
 miftakes, and lupply the deficiencies. 
 
 Befides perfe&ing the difcoveries of theif 
 predecefTorSy our late navigators have added a 
 long catalogue of their own, to enrich geog^* 
 phical knowledge. By repeatedly traverfioe the 
 Pacific Ocean, fuch ample accounts have oeen 
 received of the different iilands and their inhabi- 
 tants, that, to make ufe of Captain Cook's own 
 words, we have left little mori to be done in thofe 
 farts^ 
 
 Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, all contributed 
 towards increafing our knowledge of the iiles in 
 x!tit y^dfic Ocean, within the limits of the 
 foutheni tropic ; but liovv f.'r tha; oce :n rx^ 
 
 A ■ ^ tcii'.^d 
 
[ u ] 
 
 tended to the weft, by what lands it was bound- 
 ed on that fide, and the connections of thofe 
 lands with former difcoveries, remained un- 
 known, till Captain Cook, after his firft voyage, 
 brought back a fatisfadtory decifion of this im« 
 portant queftion. With wonderful fkill and 
 perfeverancc, amidft perplexities, difficulties, 
 and dangers, he traced this coaft almoft two 
 thoufand miles, from the 38® of fouth latitude, 
 crofs the tropic, to its northern extremity, within 
 10° and a half of the equinodtial, where it joined 
 the land already explored by the Dutch, which 
 they have denominated New Holland. 
 
 The voyages projected by His prefent Ma« 
 jefty George the Third, and carried into execu- 
 tion by Captain Cook, have not, it is prefumed, 
 been ufelcfs. When Great Britain was firft vi-» 
 fited by the Phoenicians, the inhabitants were 
 painted favages, much lefs civilized than thofe of 
 Tongataboo, or Otaheitc; and it is not impof- 
 fible, but that our late voyages may, in procefs 
 of time, fpread the bleffings of civilization 
 among the numerous iflanders of the South Pa* 
 cine Ocean, and be the means of abolifhing their 
 abominable repafts, and almoft equally abomi- 
 nable facrifi^es. 
 
 .:r ki'jp'rtiriiV.; ... 
 
 ^' CON- 
 
 V«f' 
 
 •f a 
 
f i 
 
 i,iH 3 
 
 *^ * l»A. . 
 
 Stfr 
 
 THE 1«IFE Of 
 
 •■'r 
 
 a 
 
 .» « 
 
 
 Caftain JAMES COOK. 
 
 S 
 
 
 INCE the printing of the (bllowing fheeti, feme 
 new and authentic particulars of the life of this great 
 navigator, having come to our hands, we fliall liere 
 give them as a Airparate article, wiiichmay be read in- 
 iieead of what we have inferted immediately aft^r the 
 account of- Captain Cook's death. 
 
 James Cook was born at Marton, in Cleveland, near 
 Great Ayton, in York/hlre, ia Nov. 17 28. iiis fa- 
 ther was a day labourer to. a farmer, and lived in a 
 Anall village furrounded with mud walls. His father 
 aftei wards removed to Great Ay ton, where he was em« 
 ployed as a hind by the late Thomas Scuttowe, £iq* 
 aflifled by his fon in the difiereot branches of hufban- 
 
 At the age of thirteen, he was put under the care of 
 Mt"* Pirllen, a fchoolomiler who taught at Ayton,^ 
 where he learned arithmetic, .book-keepings &cc. and 
 is faid to have' (hewn a very early genius, for figures* 
 About Jan. 1745, at the age 01 fevet|^een, his father 
 t>ouhd him appt^itice to learn the grocei^y and haber- 
 daihery bufinelsy ^t Snaith ; but after a year and a balPs 
 fervitude, having contracted a ilrong propenfity to the 
 fea^ hi« mailer was. willing to indulge him in following 
 tlie bent of lu^s inclination, and gave up his indentures. 
 
 In July, 1 746, he was bound apprentice to Mr. J* 
 WaJker of Whilby, for the temi of three years, which 
 time he {ferve^^ io his mailer's full fatistadlion. He 
 firil failed on board the /hip Freelove, chiefly. eii)|>loyad 
 ia the cool trade froyn N^wcaflle to XmoAqku 
 
 A 2 In 
 
iy 
 
 THE LIFE Ot CAPtAXN COOK. 
 
 In the fpring, 1750, Mr. Cook /hipped himfelf as a 
 feainan on board the Maria^ under the command of 
 Captain Gafkln, In her he continued all that year in 
 the Baltic trade. ' 
 
 ^^ ^753* ^c entered on board His Majcfty's (hip 
 Eagle ; " having a mind,** as he exprefled himfeif, " to 
 ** try his fortune that way." Some time after, the 
 Eagle failed with another frigate en a cruife, in whit h 
 they were very fuccefsful. 
 
 He received a commiffion as Lieutenant, on the firft 
 day of April, 1760; and.foon after gave a fpecimen of 
 thofe abilities, which recommended him to the com- 
 mands which he executed fo* highly to his credit, that 
 his name will go down to pofterity, as one of the moft 
 fkilfal navigators which this country hath produced. 
 
 In the year 1765, he was with Sir William Burna- 
 by, on the Jamaica flation ; and behaved in fuch a man- 
 ner as intitled him to the approbation of the Admiral. 
 
 In the year 1767, the Royal Society refolved, that 
 it wpuld be proper to fend fome perfons into fome 
 part of the South Seas, to obferve the tranfi': of the 
 planet Venus over the Sun*s diflc; and Otaheite being 
 £xed upon, the Endeavour, a fhip built for the coal 
 trade, was put into commiffion, and the command of 
 her given to Lieutenant Cook, who was appointed with 
 Mr. Charles Green to obferve the tranfit, 
 • In this voyage he was accompanied by Jofeph Banksy 
 Efq. (xnce Sir Jofeph, and Dr. Solander. On the 13th 
 of April, 1769, he came to Otaheite, where the tranfit 
 of Venus was obferved in different parts of the ifland. 
 He came to anchor in the Downs on the 12th of Junci 
 after having been abfent almoil three years, in which 
 he had madddifcoveries equal to all the navigators of his 
 country, from the time of Columbus to the'prefent. 
 
 Soon after Captain Cook's return to England, it was 
 refolved to equip two fhips to complete the difcovery 
 of the Southern hemifphere. It had long been a pre- 
 vailing idea, that'the unexplored part contained anothei^ 
 Continent. To afcertain the faft^was the principal ob- 
 je<5t of this expedition; and that nothing might be 
 'i omitted 
 
 I 
 

 THE LIFE OF CAPTIAN COOK. V 
 
 omitted that could tend to facilitate thecnterpnze, two 
 /hips were provided; the Refolution, under the com- 
 mand of Captain Cook; the other, the Adventure, 
 commanded hy Captain Furneaux. Both of them 
 failed from Deptford on the 9th of April, 1772, and ar- 
 rived at the Cape of (iood Hope on the 30th of 061. 
 They departed from thence on the 2 2d of November, 
 and from that time, until the 17th of January, 1773, 
 continued endeavouring todifcoverthe continent, when 
 they were obliged to rclinquifti the defign. They then 
 proceeded into the South Seas, and made many other 
 -difcoveries, and returned to England on the 14th of 
 July : having, during three years and eighteen daysj 
 lofl but one man by ficknefs; although he had navigated 
 throughout all the climates from fifty-two degrees 
 north, to feventy-one degrees Ibuth, with a company 
 of an hundred and eighteen men. 
 
 The want of fuccefs which attended Captain Cook's 
 attempt to difcover a Southern Continent, did not dif- 
 courage another plan being refolved on, which had 
 been recommended fome time before. This was ho 
 other than the finding out a North-wefl paffage, which 
 the fancy of fome chimerical projectors had conceived 
 to be a prcdticable fcheme. His intrepid fpirit, and 
 inquifitive mind, induced him again to offer his fervices, 
 and they were accepted without hefitation. He pre- 
 pared for his departure with th« utmofl alacrity, and 
 failed in the qaonth of July, .1776. 
 
 A few months after his departure from England, 
 notwithflanding he was then abfent, the Royal Society 
 voted him Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal, as a re- 
 ward for the account which he had tranfmitted to that 
 Body, of the method taken to preferve the health of 
 the crew of his /hips. 
 
 Captain Cook was a married man, and left feveral 
 children behind him. On each of theie His Maj^fty 
 has fettled a penflon of 25I. per annum, and 200I. per 
 annum on his widow. 
 
 The particulars of this laft voyage, together with 
 an account of his death, will be found amply defcribed 
 in the fgJlowing page?. 
 
 A3 
 

 Diicclions to the Binder for placing the Cut s. 
 
 The Portrait of Captain Cook to face the cngr.ivcJ Title. 
 The Infidcof a Hippah, in New Zealand, to face page 
 A Dance in Otaheitc, .... 
 
 View of Huaheinc, - - - . 
 
 View o^ the habitations in Nootka Sound - - - 
 Captain Cook's death, - - - 
 
 Summer and Winter Habitations in Kamptfchatka 
 
 *9 
 
 121 
 
 34« 
 
 J. FIELDING refpc^ fully informs the Public, That 
 THIS VOYAGE at Large may now be had complete, in Four 
 Volumes 0£tavo, embelliflied with Sixty fine Copper-plates, 
 and a large Cliait, exhibiting all the Difcovcries made in this 
 and his two preceding Voyages, v/ith the Trafts of the Ships 
 under his Command ; Price ll. 78. in Boards, or any (ingle 
 Number to complete fcts, at is. except No. 24, which is 
 fts. 6d. 
 
 This Day is pubTi/hedy 
 
 The ANGLER'S MUSEUM; 
 
 Or the WHOLE ART of 
 
 FLOAT AND FLY FISHING. 
 
 H 
 
 ,. CONTAINING, 
 
 I. the Nature and Properties of Fifli in general. 
 
 II. Rules and Cautions to be obferved by young Algiers. 
 
 III. lihe Choice and Preparation of Rods and Lines. 
 
 IV. Of Float-filhing, and of live and dead Baits. 
 
 V. Of Fly-fifliing, and the Preparation of Artificial FHcs. 
 
 VI. An Account of the different Sorts of Fih, their Haunts^ 
 fpawning Times, and Seafons to angle for them. 
 
 VII. An account of fome of the Principal Sea Fifli ; their 
 I^ature, Qualities, and Manner of catching them, &c. " 
 
 VIII. Particulars refpcfting the Laws and Cuftbms of 
 Angling.". 
 
 The THIRD Edition. 
 Carefully coUefted from aftual Experience. 
 To which is prefixed, the SERMON of St. ANTHONY 
 to a miraculous Congregation of Fiihes. 
 
 . Price 2$t ^cl« f(?YTc4| or ^^ boiiaci* 
 
tl 
 
 C ^ 1 
 
 a o o 
 
 "Q'O N T E N T S, 
 
 •S 9 
 
 •;r 
 
 BOCK 
 
 .- i 
 
 (i4 
 
 •;%••! 
 
 TKANSACTIONS flOM THE BEGINNING OF TRr VOYAiOEy 
 TILL OUA DEPA&TURfi FROM NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 C 
 
 ^ Aptains Cook and Gierke appointed to the Refoliition and 
 Difcovery — Pprepaiations for the Voyage — Departure of 
 the Refolution. — The Refolution proceeds to Teneriffe^ 
 Defcription of Santa Cruz road — Sonne account of the 
 iiland, and of the cities of Santa Cruz and Laguna — • 
 Departure from Tcncriffc — Danger, of the (hips from the 
 funken rocks near Bonavida — Arrival at the Cape of Good 
 Hope— Junction of the Difcovery — The Refolution and 
 Dilcovery leave the Cape of Good Hope — Arrive at Chritt- 
 mas Harbour — Depnrt from thence — Range along the 
 coaft — Mr. Ander|pii*s Natural Hiftory of the animals, 
 plants, foil, &c. <t': ICerguelen*s Land— Paflhge of the fliips 
 from Kerguelen's to Van Diemen's Land — Arrival in Ad- 
 venture Bay — Defcription of the jperfons, drefs, manners, 
 and cuftoms of the inhabitants— Courfe to New Zealand. 
 Intercourfe with the Now Zealanders — Captain Cook's 
 obfervations on the inhabitants of New Zealand — Tha 
 country, inhabitant 9} Uc* near Queen Charlotte's Sound 
 defcribed Page i 
 
 BOOK 
 
I: 
 
 Vili C O !f T K F T «• ^ 
 
 't.T;l.tJ -!> ,. -• -H BOOK ir. ';^. jy.ir« 
 
 CorfTAIN/ilG OUil^D VENTURES FROM bUR (btPASfTtRl 
 FAOM NEW ZEALAND, TILL OUR ARRIVAL AT OTA* 
 HEITE, OR THE SOCIETY ISLANDS. , ,. ., 
 
 The ifland of Mangeea dlfcovcred— Account of the perfons 
 and drcfs of the inhabitants — Defcription of the ifland — 
 DiQpofition and maninecs q£ the . Mat^gecans — An illund 
 named Wateeoo difcovered — Omai's appreheniions of be- 
 ing roafted — Otakootaia vifitcd— 'Defcription of the ifland 
 and its produce— Bear away for the friendly Iflands—- 
 Arrival at Annamooka — Variety of tranfaiftions there— • 
 Seve>ral inflances of the pilfering difpofition of the na- 
 tives — Account of Annamooka — l*roceed to Happace — 
 Arrival there — Single combats with clubs — Wreft- 
 Knd, &c.— "Marines exercifed— A dance by men — Fire- 
 naoA^s—^Csptiain Cook makes an excurfion into Lefoof ;i-^ 
 Depacture ia>vn the Happaee iilands — The Hitpt ttturn 
 to Annamooka — Both the (hips ftrike on the rocks — Ar- 
 rival at Tongataboo — Favourable reception at Tongata- 
 boo— The Obfervatory ercded- — Defcription of the viflaflp 
 ilpibere the Obiefs relide—^Some oilers plundered of dteir 
 snufquets, -and other articles, by the natives — Method of 
 -dpeffing hogs and carving them— Arrival at £ooa — ^Some 
 ACGOVttit of thtft ifland-— Weigh anchor and turn through 
 the<^an<^l — Quh the Friendly Iflands with regret — • 
 Number of iflands — Perfons of the inhabitants defcribed— 
 Various eniployments of the women of the Friendly IHands 
 
 ' —Occupations of the men, &c. — Cuflom of cutting off 
 Hveir little finger. -* - -^ , , .^ .> Page 44 
 
 
 XT'*/ 
 
 BOOK 
 
 III. 
 
 . ■■«» 
 
 •^ h W .*. M 
 
 '^M ' V /' • ^ - 
 
 »OCUftRENCV« AT OTAHEITE, AND THt SOCJE^TY I6T.ES; 
 C4KD PRO»EC.irTI0N Of THE VOYAGE TO MOB A AM£- 
 
 HdCA. 
 
 ■j(Vr;i 
 
 1 I. iK.-ni/v 
 
 Che iflatid of Tooiiouai diibavered — Arrival in Ohcitcpha 
 
 i Bay^ at Otahcite — Omai's reception — Accouikt of 4he 
 
 houfe erc(^ed by the Spaniards — Interview with Otoo, kin^ 
 
 ^~ ^<Ot«heite— Imprudent behaviour of Oinai— -Manner of 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 it 
 
 prefervinr, for many months, the dead bodv of a Chief- 
 Riding on horfcback, matter of great aftonilhmcnt to the 
 nntivet— Manner of fighting two war canoes — Confidera- 
 tions about falling— Account of the friendly treatment we 
 " received at Otaheite— The expedition of fome Spaniards-^ 
 Anchor at Taloo in Eimco — Detaitied by having a goat 
 •^flolen— That recovered and another ft« Icn— The iflandde- 
 - fcribed, &c. — The (hips arrive at Huaheinc — Omai*s efta- 
 birihmcnt in this ifland unanimoufly agreed to — A hotifc 
 built for him — Steps takeu to enfure bis fafety — AnimaU 
 left with Omai — His European weapons — His behavidur 
 at parting — Arrival at Ulietca — Intelligence from Omar-w 
 Remarks on the Ulitteans — Prefent and former ftatc'of 
 their ifland — Proceed to Bolabola — Quit the Society 
 Iflands — Defcriptipn of Bolabola and its harbour-*- BeaUty 
 and fertility of Otaheite— Defcription of tho natives— ^De- 
 licacy of the women— Religion— Notions conccmTTig im- 
 mortality— Peculiarities of the adjacent iHands — Profei^- 
 tion of our voyage, after our departure from the Society 
 Iflcs — Chriftmas Ifland difcovered — Infcription left in a 
 bottle — Particulars refpefting Chriftmas mnd — Thtee 
 iflands difcovered — The fliips caft anchor— Curiout fea- 
 thered cloaks and caps — The ifl6 of Onceheow vifited*— 
 Animals and feeds left at Onceheoi^— The fhips jprocetd 
 to the northward — Situation of the iflands now diicovered 
 by us— The name of Sandwich Iflands giren to the whble 
 group — Advantageous fituation of the Sandwich Ifler— 
 Proceed on the voyage— Beautiful fea animaU dcfcribcd— • 
 55ee the coaft of North America— Stormy and tempeftu^us 
 weather — The fliips ccnne to an anchor, and are viiited by 
 numbers of the natives. Pa^e no 
 
 u| i:;ii,i^ .^■,.. BOOK IV. 
 
 
 
 TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES OF NORTH AME- 
 RICA} DISCOVERIES ON THAT COAST AND THE EAS- 
 TERN EXTREMITY OF ASIA, AND RETURN SOUTH- 
 WARD TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 
 
 Arrival at the Sound — Moor in an excellent harbour — Va- 
 riety of articles brought to barter, particularly human 
 IkulU— Mifchievous thefts committed— The ob(crvatca*iei 
 ereded on a rock — Alfo a forge erected — Tempeftuous 
 
 r weather— Departure of the fliips— The adjacent country 
 
 de fcribed 
 
C O K T £ K T 4l» 
 
 J 
 
 V dcfcribed— Tree* and other vegetable produ^^UonC «»- D#^ 
 J, fcription of the nadves— Leathern mantle for war — N»n\* 
 
 ber of inhabitants at Nootka Sound-^Manner of building 
 "their houfea — Employments of the men — The women, 
 
 and their employ menti.*-^Difiercnt forts of food, and manV 
 ^ ner of preparing it — Manufa^res, &c*— A ftorm— »-The 
 
 Kefolution fprings a leak— Progrcfs of the (hips along tht 
 , North- American coaft — Ships anchor near Cape Hmch* 
 ^ inbrokc — The natives vifit us — Progrcfs up the Sound 
 
 —Montague Ifland — The fliips leave the Sound— Extent 
 .^ of Prince William's Sound —The perfonrof its inhabi- 
 ^ tants defcribed — Their drefs, &c. — Proceed along the 
 ', coail —Cape Elizabeth — Cape St. Hermogenes— Point 
 
 Bankr— Lieutenant King^ lands, difplays a flag, and takca 
 ., poiTeilion of the country—- The Refolution ftrikes upon a 
 , Dai^k — pcpaixare from Cook's ri?cr— Cape Barnabas — 
 .A RullGan. titer brought on boad.jthe Difcov^iy— Efc^pe 
 .* providentiaHy — Arrival at Oonalaihka-— DeCcription of 
 
 Y the harbour of Samganoodha <*^ The fliips proceed to the 
 ^ Aorthwand'^ Death of Mr. Anderfon -«• An iikmd named 
 j after him— Cape Prince of Wales— -The ihips quit the 
 ^. Bay--*Crofs,th^ ftr^i^ to the American coaft— Appearance 
 . of a prodigious mafs of Ice — Sea horfes killed and made 
 ] ufe w as provifigns — Unfuccefsful attempts to get to the 
 ^ .north throMgh the ice ««-The fliips proceed along the coaft 
 ^ ' of AjQa— JLa^ul in fearch of wood and water-^^ppliei of 
 _ wood and watfn: ^>^ JVfr. King fent to examine the ^ouft -— 
 . The.Refoltuion Qxrings a leak— ^The fliips arrive at Oona- 
 I lafllka-^Plentiful fupplies of fifli— Mr. Ifmyloff comes on 
 ^ l)oard— Ijiteliigetice received from him-— Two charts pro* 
 ^ duced "by him— Account or the iflands vifited by the 
 
 ' Ruffians — Of their fettlement at Oonalaflika— Defcription 
 
 of the natives — Departure from San^ganoodha — Proceed 
 
 to the fouth— /Due man killed, and three or four wounded 
 
 qn board the Difcovcry— Mowee difcovered — Owhyhee, 
 
 • ma ifland, 'di&ovcrcd — Ship*:B crew^ n^etule to tsdie iugar« 
 
 . cane t>eer <^ Mr« Bligh cxsHuiaes Karakiokooa Bay — « 
 
 :^ .:,,.. , ., .Page 176 
 
 91,1 l*-**-' i^ jji,ti 
 
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 ^:u; 
 
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 f: 
 
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,J 
 
 e <» H T s ir T t« 
 
 V 
 
 BOOK V. 
 
 fOUlNAL or THE TRANSACTIONS ON KETURNINO JO 
 
 THE SANDWICH ISDANDS* ,^ ^ 
 
 Karakakooa Bay defcribed— Oflfering made to Captain Cook 
 at the Morui— Mr. King ere(5ts oblervarories — Method of 
 curing meat in tropical climates — Society of prlclls acci* 
 dentally difcovered — Their munificence— Bring the inha- 
 bitants to obedience by firing a mufquet— The civility ^nd 
 hofpitality of the natives — Death of William Watman, a 
 feaman— The natives very inquifitive about our departure 
 — What they fuppofed to be the objecft of our voyage — 
 The natives regret our departure — The vcfi'els quit the 
 iiland— The Refolution damaged in a gale of wind, and 
 obliged to return— The behaviour of the iflundcrs'on our 
 return to Karakakooa Bay, fomewhat myfterioas — A theft 
 xrommltted on board the Difcovery — Scuffle between the 
 natives and our people — The pinnace attacked and plun- 
 dered— The Difcover)'*s cutter ftolen from the buovv— • 
 Steps taken for its recovery— Captain Cook gjcs on mpre 
 to invite the King and his fons on board — Tntelligence 
 arrives of one of the chiefs being killed by one of our peo- 
 ple— A Chief threatens Captain Cpok, and is ihot by him 
 —A general attack enfues— Death of Captain Cook — Ac- 
 count of his fervices, and a Iketch of his cnara£ter — ^Tranl- 
 a^tions at Owhyhec, fubfequent to the death of Captain 
 Cook — Situation of our party at the Moral — Attempt to 
 florm the Moral — A (hort truce — Our people quit the 
 Moral— Pacific meafures determined on — Contemptuous 
 behaviour of the natives — • Precautions taken by us — A 
 piece of Captain Cook's fle(h brought us by one of thenv— 
 Farther provocations from the natives — The village of 
 Kakooa burned by our people- Bravery of the natives— 
 The bcnes of Captain Cook brought to us— They arc 
 committed to the deep — The fliips leave Karakakooa Bay, 
 Anchor in Wymoa Bay— - Infolence of the natives—The 
 number, names, and iituution, of the Sandwich IHands—- 
 Account of a journey into the interior parts of Ovvhyhee— 
 DIvifion of the people into three claires— Superior power 
 of the Eree-taboo— Account of their religion —Human fa-^ 
 crifices very frequent among them — Religious cuilom of 
 knocking out thu £brc-tecth— Their ide«is of a future Hate. 
 
 Page a 41 
 
^ 
 
 CONTENTS* 
 
 B O O K VI. . 
 
 TRANSACTIONS IN A SECOND EXPEt)ITlON TO TIfR 
 NORTH, BY THE WAY OF KAMTSCHATKA, AND IN- 
 RETURNING HOME, BY THE WAY OF CANTON, ANI) 
 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 Quit Onccheow— Steer for Awatfka Bay— Prepare for a coU 
 clrmate— The Rcfolution enters Awatlka Bay — Wirh fomc 
 difficulty difcovcr the town of St. Peter and St. Paul — 
 Their reception by the commander of the }>ort — Stores 
 md provifions ey-tremely fcarcc at St. Peter and St. PauJ. 
 A party difpatched to Bolcheretfk in piirfuit of {lores a;ul 
 provifions — Death of the carpenter's marc — The Ruifian 
 hofpital put under the care of our furgcons — Eruption of 
 a volcano — Obl>ru6lions from the ice — Fruitlefs attempts 
 
 - to difcover a paflTage on the American fide — Critical iitua- 
 tion of the Difcovery — Greatly obftru<5tcd by the ice — 
 Damages fuftained by the Difcovery — Captnm Gierke re- 
 folves to proceed to the fouthward — Death of Captain Clerkc 
 —Enumeration of his fervices— Return to St. Peter aud St, 
 Paul — Several officers promoted — Funeral of Captain 
 
 ■ Gierke, and the folemnities attendinj!^ it— Infcription to 
 Captain Gierke's memory — Supply of cattle received— 
 Defcription- of Kamtlbhatka — Its inhabitants confiil of 
 three lorts — Plan of future operations — The fliips fail for 
 Japan — Profccution of our voyage to China — Journals 
 , and other papers of the officers and men, relating to the 
 hiftory of the voyage, delivered up — Captain King dif- 
 patched to Macao to vifit the Portuguefe Governor — Cap- 
 tain King, his fecond Lieutenant, &c. proceed to Can- 
 ton — Mr. King's reception at the Englifli factory at Can- 
 ton — Captain King's return to Macao — Orders of the 
 French Court relative to Captain Cook — Steer fc^ x ulo 
 Gondorc— Pulo Condore defcribed — Departure of the fliips 
 from thence — - Enter the Straits ot Banca -— Enter 
 the Straits of Sunda — Anchor at Caracatoa — Steer for the 
 Cape nf Good Hope— Anchor in Simon's Bay— Fruitlefs 
 
 • attempt to get into Port GaUvay in Ireland— Steer to the 
 north of Lewis liland— Anchor at Stromncfs. 3,14 
 
 .J*' 
 
 ■; -♦ II ;:■■ 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 4 
 
 . - :: tv . 
 
 A VOY- 
 
 , 
 
 * 
 
 tf 
 
 • 
 
.«*' 
 
 "J 
 
 44 
 
 V O Y A G E . 
 
 
 TO THE 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 >•! 3 
 
 * .. . »y 
 
 BOOK I. 
 
 RANSACTIONS FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE 
 VOYAGE TILL OUR DEPARTURE FROM NEW 
 ZEALAND, 
 
 N the 1 0th of February, 1776, Captain Cook 
 
 rent on board His Majdty's {loop the Relblution, 
 
 iving received a commilfion to command her the pre- 
 
 ^ding day. The Dii'covery, of three hundred tons^ 
 
 rus, at the fame time, prepared for the fervice, and 
 
 !aptain Gierke appointed to the command of her. It 
 
 uiy be neceflary toobferve, that Captain Gierke had 
 
 ien Captain Cook's Second Lieutenant on board the 
 
 Itfolution, in his fecond voyage round tlie world, 
 
 Hoth {hips being abundantly fupplied with every 
 
 ling requifite for a voyage of fuch duration, we failed 
 
 u tlie 29th of May, and arrived the next day at Long 
 
 Itach, where our powder and iliot, and other ord* 
 
 lace llores, were received. 
 
 On the 8th of [une, while we lay in Long Re^ch, 
 2 had the fiUishwftioii of a vifit from the Karl of 
 
 IJ Sand^ 
 
a 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Sandwich, Sir Hugh Pallifery and others of the Board 
 of Admiralty, to examine whether every thing had 
 been completed purfuant to their ordens, and to the 
 convenience of thofe who were to embark. 
 
 On the lOth we took on board a bull, two cows 
 with their calves, and fome fheep, with hay and com 
 for their Aipport. We were alfo furnifhed with a fuf- 
 iicient quantity of our valuable European garden feeds, 
 which might add freih fupport of food to the vegetable 
 productions of our newly-difcovered iflands. 
 
 Both the fhips, by order of the Board of Admiralty, 
 were amply fupplied with an extenfive aflbrtment of 
 iron tools and trinkets, to facilitate a friendly com- 
 merce and intercourfe with the inhabitants of fuch new 
 countries as we might difcover. With refpedl to our' 
 own wants, nothing was refufedus that might be con- 
 ducive to health, comfort, or convenience. 
 
 We received on board, the next day, variety of 
 aftronomical and naur'oal inflruments, which the 
 Board of Longitude intruded to Captair. Cook and 
 Mr. King, his Second Lieutenant ; they having en- 
 gaged to fupply the place of a profefled obfervator. 
 The Board, likewife, put into their poileflion the time- 
 keeper, which Captain Cook had carried out in his laft' 
 voyage, and which had performed fo well. Another 
 time-keeper, and the fame aflbrtment of aftronomical and 
 other inftruraents. were put on board the Difcovery,'* 
 for the ufe of Mr. William Bailey, a diligent and fkil- 
 ful obfervator, who was engaged to embark with Cap- 
 tain Gierke. 
 
 Mr. Anderfon, Surgeon to Captain Cot 
 his profeilional abilities a great proficienc^j 
 hiftory. 
 
 Though feveral young men among the 
 were capable of being employed in conftru6ting charts, 
 drawing plans, and taking views of the coafts and head] 
 lands, Mr. Webber was engaged to embark with Cap" 
 tain Cook, for the purpofe of fupplying the defe6ls ctJ 
 written accounts, by taking accurate and mafterljf 
 ' . . . •• ,' • ■ .• drawi 
 
 dded to 
 
 ■n 
 
 atural' 
 fficers^ 
 
PACIFIC OCEAW. 3 
 
 drawings of the moft memorable fcenes of our tranf-* 
 adtions. 
 
 The neceflary preparations being completed. Cap- 
 tain Cook received orders to proceed to Plvmouthy and 
 to take the Difcovery under his command. In confe- 
 quence of which, he ordered Captain Clerke to carry 
 his fhip alfo round to Plymouth. 
 
 The Refolution, with the Difcovery in comnanyt 
 failed from Long Reach on the 15th ot June, and an- 
 chored at the Nore the fame evening. The Difcovery 
 proceeded the next day in obedience to Captain Cook's 
 order, and the Refolution remained at the Nore till 
 Captain Cook, who was then in London, /hould join 
 ]ier. 
 
 It being our intention to touch at Otaheite ^nd the 
 Society Iflands, it had been determined to carry Omai 
 j^ack to his native country ; accordingly Captain Cook 
 pnd he fet out from London early on the 24th. 
 
 Though Omai left London with fome degree of re- 
 jgret, when he refledled upon the favours and indul- 
 ^encies he had received, yet, when mention was made 
 of his own iflands, his eyes fparkled vvith joy. He 
 [entertained the higheft ideas of this country and its in- 
 lluibitants : hut the p\e:\{mg prolpecH: of returning home, 
 jloaded with what would be deemed invahiable treafures 
 [there, and of obtaining a diftinguiftied fuperiority 
 iniong his countrymen, operated fo far as to fupprefs 
 jvery uneafy fenfation ; and when he got on board the 
 [iliip, he appeared to be quite happy. 
 
 Omai was furnilhed by His Majefty with quantities 
 >f every article that was fuppofed to be in eftimation at 
 [Otaheite. Every metliod had, indeed, been employed, 
 Wuring his abode in England, and at his departure, to 
 jmake him the inftrument of conveying to his country- 
 mien an exalted opinion of Britiili greatnefs and genero- 
 Tity. 
 
 About noon on the 25th we weighed anchor, and 
 made fail for the Downs, where Captain Cook received 
 :wo boats on boird, which had been builr. for him at 
 '^ al. 
 
 B 2 Cn 
 
4 AVOYA<5ETO THE 
 
 On the 30th, at three o'clock In the afternoon, w6 
 anchored at Plymouth Sound. The Difcovery had 
 arrived there three days before. 
 
 On the 8th of July, Captain Cook received his in- ' 
 ftru£^ions for the voyage, and an order to proceed to 
 the Cape of Good Hope with the Refolution ; with 
 dired^ions alfo to leave an order for Captain Clerke to 
 ibilow hiiti as foon as he fhould join his fhip, he being 
 at that time in London. 
 
 The officers and men on board the Refolution, in- 
 cluding marines, were one hundred and twelve, and 
 thofe on board the Difcovery were eighty. 
 
 In the mbrning of the 1 1 th, Captain Cook delivered 
 into the hands of Mr. Burney, Firft Lieutenant of the 
 Discovery, Captain Clerke's failing orders ; a copy of 
 which he alfo left with the commanding officer ot His 
 Majefty's fliips at Plymouth, to be delivered to the 
 Captain on his arrival. In the afternoon we weighed 
 with the ebb, and got out beyond all the iliipping in 
 the Sound, where we were detained moft of the fol- 
 lowing day. At eight o'clock in the evening, we 
 weighed again, and flood out of the Sound, with a gen- 
 tle breeze at north-weft by weft. 
 
 Soon after we came out of Plymouth Sound, the 
 wiiid came more wefterly, and blew frefti, which 
 obliged us to ply down the channel ; and we were not 
 off the Lizard till the 14th, at eight in the evening. 
 On the afternoon of the 24th, we pafled Cape Finif- 
 terre, with a line gale.at north-north-caft. 
 
 Captain Cook determined to touch at Teneriffe, to 
 get a fupply of hay and corn for the fubfiftence of his 
 animals on board, as well as the ufual refreftmients for 
 ourfelves ; and at day-light, on the firft of Auguft, we 
 failed round the eaft point of that illand, and anchored 
 on the fouth fide, in the road of Santa Cruz, about 
 eight o'clock, in twenty-three fathoms water. 
 
 Immediately after we had anchored, we received a 
 vifit from the mafter of the port, who alked the fliip's 
 nam . Upon his retiring, Captain Cook fent an offi- 
 £er afhore, to prefent his refpeils to the Governor, 
 
 and 
 
•PACIFIC O C E A IT. . .,^ 
 
 and a(k his permiilion to take in water, and to pur- 
 chare luch articles as were thought neceiHiry. Tlie 
 Governor very pohtely compUed Vr ith Captain Cook's 
 requefl:, and Tent an officer on hoard to compliment him 
 on his arrival. In the afternoon, Captain Cook waited 
 upon him, accompanied by Tome of his officers, and, 
 before he returned to the fliip, l)efpoke fome corn and 
 ftraw, ordered a quantity of wine, and made an agree- 
 ment for a fupply of water. 
 
 The water to fupply the fliipi)ing, and for the ufe of 
 theinhal)it:uits of Satit.i Cru/, is derived from a rivulet 
 that runs from the liills, which is conveyed into the 
 town in wooden trouglis. As thele troughs were at 
 
 
 this time repairing, freih water was extremely fca 
 
 From the appearance of the country about Santa 
 Cruz, it might naturally be concluded that TenerilFe 
 is a barren Ipot : we were convinced, however, from 
 the ample fupplies we received, that it not only pro- 
 duced fufficient to fupply its own inhabitants, but alio 
 enough to fpare for visitors. 
 
 Teneriffe is certainly a more eligible place than Ma- 
 deira for fliips to touch at which are bound op long 
 voy^g|s j^ but the wii^e of the latter is infinitely fupe- 
 rior to that*i^ the former. 
 
 Behind the town of Santa Cruz, the country rifes 
 gradually to a moderate height ; afterwards it continues 
 to rife fouth weft ward towards the celebrated pic of 
 Tenerifte. 
 
 The ifland, eaftward of Santa Cruz, appears per- 
 fectly barren. Ridges of high hills run towards the 
 fea, between which are deep vallies, terminating at 
 mountains that run acrofjj and are higher than the 
 former. 
 
 On the I ft of Auguft, in the afternoon, Mr. Ander- 
 fon (Captain Cook's furgeon) went on /hore to one of 
 thefe vallies, intending to reach the top of the remoter 
 hills, but time would not permit him to get farther 
 than their foot. The lower hills produce great quan- 
 tities of the euphorbia canarlenjis* 
 
 B 3 Santa 
 
I I,' 
 i! 
 
 ? "! 
 
 6 A YOYACE TO THE 
 
 Santa Cniz, though not large, is a well-built city. 
 Their churches have not a magnificent appearance 
 without, but they are decent and tolerably handfome 
 within. 
 
 Almofl facing the ftone pier, which runs into the 
 fca from the town, is a marble column, lately «re<5led, 
 enriched with human figures which reflect honour to 
 the flatuary. 
 
 On the 2d of Augufl, in the afternoon, Mr, An- 
 derfon and three others hired mules to ride to the city 
 of Lagun% about tlie diftance of four miles from Santa 
 Cruz, They arrived there between five and fix in 
 the evening; but the fight of it did not reward them 
 for their trouble, as the roads were very bad, and their 
 cattle but indifferent. Though the place is extenfive, 
 it hardly deferves to be dignified with the name of a 
 city. There are fome good houfes, but the difpofitioii 
 of the flreets is very irregular. Laguna is larger than 
 Santa Cruz, but much inferior to it in appearance. 
 
 The laborious work in this ifland is chiefly perform- 
 ed by mules, horfes being fcarce, and referved for the 
 ufe of the officers. Oxen are alfo much employed 
 here. Some hawks and parrots were' feen, which were 
 nat'^"»«' cf ihz iH'ind i as alfo the fea-fwallow, fea-culls, 
 partridges, fwallows, canary-birds, and blackbirds. 
 There are alfo lizards, locufls, and three or four forts 
 of dragon flies. 
 
 The air and climate ?,r. r^;T!?.'k:!:!7 Iiealthful, and 
 particularly adapted to afford relief in phthifical com- 
 plaints. ^ By reading at different heights in the ifland,^ 
 ft is in the power of any one to procure fuch a tempera- 
 ture of air as may be befl fuited to his conflitution. 
 Ho may continue where it is mild and falubrious, or 
 he may afcend till the cold becomes intolerable. J»^o 
 perfon, it is faid, can live comfortably within a mile 
 of the perpendicular heigac of the pic after the month 
 of Augufl. 
 
 Smoke continually iflues from near the top of the 
 pic, but they have had no earthquake or eruption fince 
 1704, when the port of Garrachica was deftroyed, 
 
 being 
 
p A c r F r C O C E A IT. 7 
 
 )cing filled up by the rivers of burning lava that flowed 
 ito it ; and houfes are now built where fhips formerly 
 lay at anchor. 
 
 The trade of Teneriffe rs very confiderable, forty 
 [thoufand pipes of wine being annually made there; 
 which is conlumed in the ifland, or made into brandy, 
 land fent to the Spanifli Weft Indies. Indeed, the wine 
 is the only confvderable article of the foreign commerce 
 of Teneriffe, imlefs we reckon the large quantities of 
 filtering ftones brought from Grand Canary, 
 
 The race of inhabitants found here when the Spa- 
 niards dil'covered the Canaries are no longer a diftin<5l 
 people, having intermarried with the Spanifli fettjers;^ 
 their defcendants, however, maybe known, from their 
 being remarkably tall, ftrong, and large boned. The 
 men are tawny, and the women are pale. The inha- 
 bitants, in general, of TenerifFe, are decent, grave, 
 and civil; retaining that folemn caft which diflin- 
 guifhes thofe of their country from others. Though 
 we are not of opinion that our manners are fimilar to 
 thofe of the Spaniards, yet Omai declared, he did not 
 think there was much difference. He (aid, indeed^ 
 that they did not appear to be fo friendly as the £ng- 
 lifli, and that their perfons nearly refembled thofe of ^ 
 his countrymen. 
 
 Having got our water and other articles on board, 
 we weighed anchor on the 4th of Auguft, quitted Te-^ 
 nerifFe, and proceeded on our voyage. 
 
 On the loth, at nine o'clock in the evening, we faw 
 the illand of Bonavifta bearing fouth, diftant about a 
 league ; though we then thouglit ourfelves much far- 
 ther off, but it foon appeared that we were miftaken ; 
 for, after hauling to the eaftward, to clear the funken 
 rocks that lie near the fouth-eaft point of the ifland, 
 we found ourfelves clofe upon them, and barely wea* 
 thered the breakers. Our fituation was for fome mi- 
 nutes fo very alarming, that Captain Cook did not 
 chufe to found, as that might have increafed the dan- 
 ger, without any poffibility gf leflening it. 
 
 H 4 Havinj 
 
■' ; 
 
 I , 
 
 ! til 
 
 ikv 
 
 » A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Having cleared the rocks, we fteered l)Ctween Bon.i- 
 'vifta anil the iiland of Mayo, intending to look intfv 
 Port Praya for the Difcovery, as Captain Cook had 
 told Captain Clerke that he ihould touch there. 
 
 On Monday the 12th, the ifle of Mayo hore fouih- 
 fouth-eafl, dinant four or five leagues. We founded, 
 and found ground at fixty fathoms. At the diAance of 
 three or four miles from this ifland, we faw not the 
 leaft appearance of vegetation ; nothing prefented itfelf 
 to our view, but that lifelefs brown, fo common in 
 \inwooded countries under the torrid zone. 
 
 On the 13th we arrived before Port Praya, in the 
 
 . ifland of St. Jago; but the Difcovery not being there, 
 we did not go in, but flood to the foutl ward. Be- 
 tween the latitude of 12° and of 7° north, the weather 
 was very glov y, and frequently rainy; infomuch, 
 that we were t .abled to fave as much water as filled 
 the greateft part of our empty cafks. 
 
 Our fhip, at this time, was very leaky in all her 
 upper works. The fultry weather had opened her 
 f<;ams fo wide, that the rain-water pafTed through as it 
 fell. The officers in the gun-room were driven from 
 their cabins by the water that came through the fides, 
 and hardly a man could lie dry in his bed. The 
 caulkers were employed to repair thefe defeats, as foofi 
 as we got into fair fettled weather; but Captain Cook 
 would not trufl them over tlie fides while we were at 
 fea. V 
 
 On the ifl of September we crofled the equator, in 
 the longitude of 27*^ 38' weft, and pafled the afternoon 
 in performing the old ceremony of ducking thofe who 
 had not crofTed the equator before. On the 8t^ we 
 
 , were a little to the fouthward of Cape St. Augufli(ie. 
 
 ,We proceeded on our voyage, without any remark- 
 able occurrence, till the 8th of O6lober. 
 
 In the evening of the 8th, a bird, which the failors 
 
 call a noddy, fettled on our rigging, and was taken. 
 
 It was larger than a common Englifh blackbird, and 
 
 nearly of the fame colour^ except the upi)er part of the 
 
 .X. head. 
 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK^ , 9 
 
 f^ead, which was white : it was web-footed, liad black 
 legs and a long black bill. 
 
 On the 17th we law the Cape of Good Hope, and, 
 on the 1 8th, anchored in Table-bay, in four fathoms 
 water. After receiving the ufual vifit from the Maf- 
 ter-attendant and the Surgeon, Cuptain Cook fent an 
 officer to Baron Plettenberg, the Governor, and faluted 
 the garrifon with thirteen guns, and was cqinplimented 
 in return with the fame number. 
 
 After having faluted, Captain Cook went on (liore, 
 accompanied by fome of his officers, and waited on 
 the Governor, the Lieutenant-governor, the Fifcal, 
 and the Commander of the troops. Thefe gentlemen 
 received Captain Cook with the greatcft civility ; and 
 the Governor, in particular, voluntarily promiled him 
 every afliftance that the place afforded. Before Cap- 
 tain Cook returned on board, he ordered frefh meat, 
 greens, &c. to be provided ev-ery day for the ihip's 
 company. 
 
 On the 2 2d w^e fixed our tents and obfervatory ; tlie 
 next day we began to obferve equal altitudes of the 
 fun, in order to difcover whether the watch had altered 
 its rate. The caulkers were fet to work to caulk the 
 fhip ; and Captain Cook had concerted meafures for 
 fupplying both fhips with fuch provifions as were 
 wanted; and, as the feveral articles for tlie Refoliition 
 were got ready, they were immediately conveyed on 
 board. 
 
 On the loth of November the Difcovery arrived 
 in the bay. She failed from Plymouth on the ift of 
 Auguft, and would have been with us a week fooner 
 had not a gale of windblown her off the coafl*. Cap- 
 tain Clerke on his paffage from England loft one of 
 his marines by falling over board. No other accident 
 happened among his people, and they arrived in perfe<51: 
 health. 
 
 The next day, the Difcovery wanting caulking;, 
 Captain Cook fent all his workmen on board her, and 
 lent every other affiftance to the Captain to expedite 
 his fuppjy of provifions and water, 
 
 B 5^ While 
 
to 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 (! 
 
 While the ihip8 were preparing for the profecution 
 f>f our voyage, Mr, Auderfon, and fome of our offi'- 
 cers, made an excurfion, to take a fvirvey of the 
 neighbouring country, Mr, Anderfon relates their 
 proceedings to the following efFedt : 
 
 In the forenoon of Saturday, the i6th of Novem- 
 l>er, he and five others fet out in a waggon to take a 
 view of the country. They croffed the large plain to 
 the eaftward of the town, which is entirely a white fand. 
 At five in the afternoon they pafled a large farm-houfe, 
 fome corn-fields and vineyards, fituated beyond the 
 plain, where the foil appeared worth cultivating. At 
 (even they arrived at Stellenbolh, a colony in point of 
 importance next to that of the Cape. 
 
 The village Hands at the foot of the range of lofty 
 mountains, about twenty miles to the eaftward of Caj)e 
 Town, and confifts of about thirty houfes, which are 
 neat and clean : a rivulet, and the fheiter of fome large 
 oaks planted at its firft fettling, form a rural profpe6l 
 in this defert country. There are fome thriving vine- 
 yards and orchards about the place, which feem to indir 
 cate an excellent foil. . 
 
 At this feafon of the year, Mr, Anderfon could find 
 but few plants in flower, and infedts were very fcarce* 
 He and his companions left Stellenbofh the next morn- 
 ing, and foon arrived at the houfe they had pafi!ed on 
 Saturday ; Mr. Cloeder, the owner of whichj having 
 fent them an invitation to vifit him, they were enter- 
 tained by this gentleman with great politenefs and hof- 
 pitality. They were received with a band of mufic, 
 which continued playing while they were at dinner, 
 which in that fituation might be reckoned elegant. 
 
 In the evening they arrived at a farm-houfe, which 
 is faid to be the firft in the cultivated tradt called the 
 Pearl, Here they had a view of 1 )rakenftein, the third 
 colony of this country, which contains feveral little 
 farms or plantations. 
 
 Plants and infedls were as fcarce here as at Stellen- 
 bofh ; but there was a greater plenty of fhrubs, or fmall 
 
 trees. 
 
 j^^ '- 
 
PACIFIC OCCAIT. 
 
 tt 
 
 jrofecution 
 f our offi- 
 ey of the 
 Jlates their 
 
 of Novem- 
 1 to take a 
 ge plain to 
 white fand, 
 irm-houfe, 
 eyond the 
 ting. At 
 n point of 
 
 tJ of Ca{)e 
 which are 
 feme large 
 il profpedt 
 ving vine- 
 'in to indi- 
 
 crould find 
 ry fcarce. 
 ;xt morn- 
 pafled on 
 h having^ 
 5re enter- 
 and hof- 
 of mufic, 
 t dinner, 
 ant. 
 
 e, which 
 ailed the 
 the third 
 al Httle 
 
 trees, naturally produced, than they had before feen in 
 Ithe country. 
 
 I On Tuefday the 19th, in the afternoon, they went 
 '^o fee a remarkable large flone, called by the inhabi- 
 Itants, the Tower of Babylon, or the Pearl Diamond* 
 jjt ftands upon the top of feme low hills, and is of aa 
 [oblong fhape, rounded on the top, and lying nearly 
 Ifouth and north. The eaft and weft fides are nearly 
 [perpendicular. The fouth end is not equally fteep, but 
 fits greateft height is there; whence it declines gently 
 to the north-part, by which they afcended, and had a 
 very extenfive profpeft of the whole country* 
 
 The circumference of this ftone is about half a mile, 
 as they were half an hour walking round it, including 
 allowances for. flopping and a bad road. Its height 
 feems to equal the dome of St. Paul's church. Except 
 fome few fiffures, it is one uninterrupted mafs of ftone* 
 
 On the 20th, in the morning, they fet out from the 
 Pearl, and, going a different road, pafiled through an. 
 uncultivated country to the Tyger hills, where they 
 lieheld fome tolerable corn-fields. About noon they 
 ftopped in a valley for rf frefh nent, where they were 
 plagued with a vaft number of mufquitoes, and in the 
 evening arrived at the Cape Town. 
 
 Captain Cook got his fheep and other cattle on 
 board as foon as poffible. He alfo increafed his ftock 
 by purchafing two bulls, two heifers, two ftone-horfes, 
 two mares, two rams, fome ewes and goats, fome 
 poultry, and fome rabbits. 
 
 Both fliips being fupplied with provifions and water 
 fufficient for two years and upwards, and every other 
 neceffary article, and Captain Cook having given Cap- 
 tain Clerke a copy of his inftruflions, we repaired on 
 board in the morning of the 30th. At three o'clock 
 the next morning, we weighed and put to fea with a 
 ligh' breeze at fouth, but did not get clear of land till 
 the 3d of December in the morning. 
 
 On the evening of the 6th, being then m the latitude 
 of 39*' 14' fouth, and in the longitude of 23^ 56' eaft, 
 wc obferved feveral fpots of water of a reddift^ hue. 
 
 B 6 ' Upon 
 
f'l .> 
 
 9 
 
 trili 
 
 
 m 
 
 r ,ii 
 
 x» 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Upon examining feme of this water that wa^^ taken 
 wp, we. perceived a number of fmall animals, which 
 the microfcope difcovered to refemble cray-fifh. 
 
 We continued to the fouth-eaft, followed by a 
 mountainous fea, which occafioned the ihip to roll ex- 
 ,. ceedingly, and rendered our cattle troublefome. Se- 
 veral goats, efpecially the males, died, and feme 
 fheep. We now began to feel the cold in a very fen- 
 Able degree. .^ , :.„ , v ,j.»: i 
 
 On Thurfday the 1 2th at noon, we difcovered two 
 iflands. That which lies mofl to the fouth appeared 
 to be about fifteen leagues in circuit; and the moil 
 ' northerly one, about nine leagues in circuit. 
 
 We pafled at equal diAance from both iflands, and 
 could not difcover either tree or flirub on either of 
 them. They feemed to have a rocky fhore, and ex- 
 .cepting the fouth-eaft parts, a ridge of barren moun- 
 tains, whofe fides and fummits were covered with 
 . fnow. Captain Cook named thefe two iflands Prince 
 Edward's iflands. 
 
 We had now, in general, ftrong gales, and very in- 
 different weather. After leaving Prince Edward's 
 Iflands, we fliaped our courfe to pafs to the fouthward 
 of the four others, to get into the latitude of the land 
 difcovered by Monfieur de Kerguelen. 
 / Captain Cook had received inftrudlions to examine 
 this ifland, and endeavour to difcover a good harbour. 
 The weather was now very foggy, and as we hourly 
 expected to fall in with the land, our navigation was 
 both dangerous and tedious. i ■ 
 
 On the 24th, the fog clearing away a little, we faw 
 land, which we afterwards fc 'nd to be an ifland of 
 confiderable height, and about three league? in circuit. 
 . We foon after difcovered another of equal magnitude, 
 about one league to the eaftward; and between thefe 
 two, foine fmaller ones. In the diredlion of fouth by 
 eaft another high ifland was feen. We did but juft 
 weather the ifland laft mentioned; it was a high round 
 rock, named Bligh's Cap. The weather beginning to 
 vlear up about eleven, we tacked, and fleered in for 
 
 the 
 
PA,CIFI<J OCEAN. 
 
 »3 
 
 the land* At noon we were enabled to determine the 
 latitude of Bligh's Cap to be 48** 29' fouth, and its 
 longitude 68° 40'. We pafled it at three o'clock, with 
 a freili gale at weft. Prefently after we clearly faw 
 the land, and at four o'clock it extended from louth- 
 eaft to fouth-weft by fouth, diftant about four miles. 
 
 Having got ofT the Cape, we obferved the coall to 
 the fouthward much indented by points and bays, 
 ^nd therefore fully expelled to find a good harbour. — 
 We foon difcovered one, into which we began to ply; 
 but it prefently fell calm, and we anchored in forty- 
 five fathoms water; the Difcovery alfo anchored there 
 foon after. Mr. Bligh, the mafter, was ordered to 
 found the harbour, who reported it to be fafe and 
 commodious. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 25th we weighed, and 
 having wrought into the harbour, we anchored in 
 eight fathoms water. The Difcovery got in at two 
 o'clock in the afternoon; wheo Captain Gierke in- 
 formed us, that he had with difficulty efcaped being 
 driven on the fouth point of the harbour, his anchor 
 having ftarted before he could fhorten in the cable. ' 
 
 Immediately after we had anchored. Captain Cook 
 ordered all the boats to be hoifted out, and the empty 
 water-cafks to be got ready. In the mean time he 
 landed, to fearch for a convenient fpot where they 
 might be filled, and to obferve what the place af- 
 forded. 
 
 He found vaft quantities of penguins, and other 
 birds, and feala on the fliore. The latter were not nu- 
 merous, but fo infenfible of fear that we killed as 
 many as we chofe, and madeufe of their fat and.blub- 
 ber to make oil for our lamps and other purpofes. 
 f refh water was exceedingly plentiful, but not a fingle 
 tree or flirub was to be difcovered, and but littlq her- 
 bage of any kind. 
 
 Before Captain Cook returned to his fliip, he af- 
 cended a ridge of rocks, rifing one above another, ex- 
 pert ing by that means to obtain a view of the coun- 
 try; but before he had reached the top, fo thick a fog 
 
 came 
 
H 
 
 AVOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ■t i ! 
 
 mu 
 
 ni 
 
 III 
 
 came on, that it was with difficulty he could £nd his 
 way down again. Towards the evening we hauled 
 the feine at the head of the harbour, but caught no 
 more than half a dozen fmail fifh; nor had we any 
 better fuccefs the next day, when we tried with hook 
 and line. Our only refource, therefore, for frefh pro- 
 vifions, was birds, which were innumerable. 
 
 Though it was both foggy and rainy on Thurfday 
 the 26th, we began to fill water, and to cut grafs for 
 our cattle, which we found near the head of the har- 
 bour. The rivulets were fwelled to fuch a degree by 
 the rain that fell, that the fides of the hills bounding 
 the harbour, appeared to be covered with a fheet of 
 water. 
 
 The people having laboured hard for two fucceflive 
 days, and nearly completed our water. Captain Cook 
 allowed them the 27th of December as a day of refl, 
 to celebrate Chriftmas. In confequence of which, 
 many of them went on fhore and made excurfions 
 into the country, which they found defolate and bar- 
 ren in the extreme. In the evening one of them pre^- 
 fcnted a quart bottle to Captain Cook, which he had 
 found on the north- fide of the harbour, fattened with 
 fome wire to . a ^ projecting rock. This bottle con- 
 tained a piece of parchment, with the following ia-* 
 icription;. • r 
 
 Luddvlco XV. Galltarutn, ' ':_* 
 
 rejre* et d* de Boynes 
 
 regi a oecretts ad res ;. . 
 
 maritimas annis I'J'JZ ett 
 
 1773- 
 It is evident from this infcription, that we were not 
 
 the firft Europeans who had vifited this harbour : and, 
 as a memorial of our having been in this harbour, Cap- 
 tain Cook wrote on the other fide of the parchment, 
 leaves Refolution 
 
 et Dlfcovery^ , ^^ , 
 
 , dc Rege Aldgna Britannia^ ^ , *' 
 
 Decembris ill^,. 
 
 '■'- - Ke- 
 
 * The d is probably a contraction of the wori domino. 
 
 'ta. 
 
PACIFIC bCEAK. 
 
 »S 
 
 He then put it again into the bottle, accompanied 
 with a filver two-penny piece of 1772, covered the 
 mouth of the bottle with a leaden cap, and placed it 
 the next morning in a pile of flones ere(5led for that 
 purpofe on an eminence, near the place where it was 
 iirft found. Here Captain Cook difplayed the Britifti 
 flag, and named the place Chrifimas Harbour y it being 
 on that feftival we arrived in it. «ri, . 
 
 In the afternoon, Captain Cook, accompanied by 
 Mr. King, his Second Lieutenant, went upon Cape 
 Fran9ois ; expelling from this elevation to have had a 
 view of the fea-coaft and the iflands lying ofF it : but 
 they found every diftant obje6l below them hid 
 in a thick fog. The land even with them, or of a 
 greater height, was vifible enough, and appeared ex- 
 ceedingly naked and defolate, except fome hills to the 
 fouthward which were covered with fnow- 
 
 On the 29th of December we failed out of Chrift- 
 mas Harbour with a fine breeze and clear weather. 
 This was unexpected, as, for fome time paft, fogs had 
 prevailed moFe or lefs every day. Though we kept 
 the lead conftantly going> we feldbm flruck ground 
 with a line of fixty fathoms. 
 
 We were off a promontory, which Captain Cook 
 called Cape Cumberland, about feven or eight o'clock. 
 It lies about a league and an half from, the ibuth point 
 of Chriftmas Harbour ; between them is a- good bay. 
 OfF Cape Cumberland is a fmall iiland, on the fummit 
 of which is a rock refembling a fentry*box, which 
 name was given to the ifland on that account. A 
 group of fmall iflands and rocks lies two miles farther 
 to theeaftward: we failed between thefe and Sentry- 
 box ifland, the breadth of the channel being full a 
 mile. We found no bottom with forty fathoms of 
 line. • . 
 
 After paffing through this c!iannel, we faw a bay on 
 the fouth-fide of Cape Cumberland, running in three 
 leagues to the weft ward. Captain Cook named this 
 promontory Point Pringle. The bottom of this bay 
 we called Cumberland Bay. ... 
 
 The 
 
i6 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ,t:!l 
 
 • W: 
 
 The coaft is formed into a fifth bay, to the fduth- 
 ward of Point Pringle. In this bay which obtained 
 the name of White Bay, are feveral leller bays oar 
 coves, which appeared to be flieltered from all winds. 
 Off the^ fouth-point, feveral rocks raife their heads 
 above water, and probably there are many others that 
 do not. 
 
 The land which firil opened ofF Cape Francois, in 
 ■the direJlioaof fouth 53° eaft, we had kept on our 
 larboard-bow, thinking it was an ifland, and that we 
 fhould difcover a paffage between that and the main ; 
 but we found it to be a peninfula, joined to the reil of 
 the coaft by a low iflhmus. The bay formed by this 
 peninfula, Captain Cook named Repulfe Bay. The 
 northern point of the peninfula was named Howe's 
 Foreland, in honour of Lord Howe. 
 
 Drawing near it, we obferved fome rocks and 
 breakers not far from the north- weft part, and two 
 iflands to the eaftward of it,^ which at firft appeared 2.5 
 one. We Iteered between them and the foreland, and 
 were in the middle of the channel by twelve o'clock. 
 The land of this foreland or peninfulia is of, a tolerable 
 height, and of a hilly and rocky, fubflance. The ccaft 
 i5 low, and almofl covered with fea-birds. ^..- ' 
 
 Having cleared the rocks and iflands before menr 
 tioned, we perceived the whole fea before us to be 
 checquered with large beds of rock-weed, which was 
 faft to the bottom. There is often found a great 
 depth of water upon fuch fhoals, and rocks have as 
 often raifed their heads almoft to the furface of the wa- 
 ter. It is always dangerous to fail over them, efpeci- 
 ally when there is no furge of the fea to difcover the 
 danger. We endeavoured to avoid the rocks by fleer- 
 ing through the winding channels by which they were 
 feparated. Though the lead was continually going, 
 we never ftruck ground with a line of fixty Fathoms : 
 this iiicreafed the danger, as we could not anchor how- 
 ever 111 gent the necefTity might be. At length we 
 difcovered a lurking rock, in the middle of one of 
 thefe beds of weeds, and eycn with the furface of the 
 
 fea» 
 
PACIFIC OCEAW. * 
 
 'IT 
 
 :o the fduth- 
 lich obtained 
 ler bays cxr 
 n all winds, 
 their heads 
 J others that 
 
 Francois, in 
 kept on our 
 ind that we 
 d the main ; 
 to the reil of 
 med by this 
 Bay. The 
 ned Howe's 
 
 rocks and 
 
 rt, and two 
 
 appeared as 
 
 )reland, and 
 
 Ive o'clock. 
 
 a tolerable 
 
 The coaft 
 
 )efore menr 
 e us to be 
 which was 
 id a great 
 ks have as 
 of the wa- 
 tm, efpeci- 
 fcover the 
 Ls by fteer- 
 they were 
 lly going, 
 J fathoms : 
 char how- 
 ength we 
 of one of 
 ice of the 
 fea% 
 
 fea. This was fiifficiently alarming to make us take 
 every precaution to avoid danger. 
 
 We were now about <!ight miles to the fouthward 
 of Howe's Foreland, aciofs the mouth of a large hay. 
 In this bay are feveral rorks, low iflands, and beds of 
 fca-weed; but there appeared to be winding channels 
 between them. We were fo much embarrafled witli 
 thefe /hoals, that we hauled oif to the eaftward, in 
 hopes of extricating ourfelves from our difficulties; but 
 this plunged us into greater, and we found it abfolute- 
 ly neceflary to fecure the fiiips if poffible, before night, 
 cfpecially as the weather was hazy, and a fog was ap- 
 . prehended. 
 
 Seeing fome inlets to tlie fouth-wefl, Captain Cook 
 ordered Captain Clerke (the Difcovery drawing lefs 
 . water than the Refolution) to lead in for the ihore, 
 which was immediately attempted : after running over 
 the edges of feveral fhoals, on which was found from 
 ten to twenty fathoms water, Captain Clerke made the 
 /ignal for having difcovered an harbour, in which we 
 anchored in fifteen fathoms water, about five o'clock 
 in the evening. 
 
 As foon as we had anchored. Captain Cook ordered 
 two boats to be hoifted out to furvey the upper pai't 
 of the harbour and look out for wood. 
 
 When they landed, from an hill over the point, 
 they had a view of the fea-coaft, as far as Howe's 
 Foreland. Several fmall iflands, rocks, and breakers 
 were fcattered along the coaft, and there appeared no 
 better channel to get out of the harbour ihan that by 
 which they had entered it. 
 
 At nine o'clock the boats got on board, and Mr. 
 Bligh reported, that he had been four miles up the 
 harbour; that its direction was weft fouth-weft; that 
 its breadth near the ftiips did not exceed a mile ; that 
 the foundings were from thirty-feven to ten fathoms; 
 and that, having landed on both ftiores, he found the 
 land barren and rocky, without a tree or ftirub, or 
 hardly any appearance of verdure. 
 
 The 
 
 •i» ■ t 
 
5 
 
 I. 
 
 
 II '1 
 
 j8 a voyage to the 
 
 The next morrj ng we weighed anchor and put out 
 to fea. This harbour was named Port PalHlcr. Hav- 
 ing got three or four leagues from the coaft, we found 
 a clear fea, and about nine o'clock, difcovered a round 
 hill, like a fugar-loaf, and a fmall ifland to the north- 
 ward of it, diftant about four leagues. Captain Cook 
 named the fugar-loaf hill Mount Campbell. 
 
 The land here in general, is low and level. The 
 mountains end about five leagues from the low point, 
 leaving a great extent of low land, on which Mount 
 Campbell is fituated. Thefe mountains feem to be 
 compofed of naked rocks, whofe fummits were covered 
 with fnow; and nothing but flerility was to be feen 
 in the vallies. 
 
 At noon we perceived low land, opening ofF the 
 low point juft mentioned, in the dire£^ion of fouth 
 fouth-eaft. It proved to be the eaftefn extremity of 
 this land, and was named Cape Digby. Between 
 Howe's Foreland and Cape Digby, the fhore forms 
 one great bay, extending feveral leagues to the fouth*- 
 weft. 
 
 At one o'clock, feeing a fmall bending in the coaft, 
 on the north fide of Cape Digby, we fleered for it, 
 with an intention to anchor there ; but, being difap- 
 nointed in our views, we pufhed forward, in order to 
 fee as much as pofllble of the coaft before night. From 
 Cape Digby it tends nearly fouth-weft by fouth to a 
 low point- to which Captain Cook gave the name of 
 Point Charlotte, in honour of our amiable Queen. 
 
 In the dire6lion of fouth fouth-weft, about fix 
 leagues from Cape Digby, is a pretty high projeaing 
 point, called the- Prince of Wales's Foreland; and fix 
 leagues beyond that, ia the fame direccicn, U the moft^ 
 foutherly point of the whole coaft, which, in honour or 
 His Majefty, was diftinguiftied by the name of Cape 
 George, ^ 
 
 Between Point Charlotte, and the Prince of Wales s 
 Foreland, we difcovered a deep inlet which, was called 
 Royal Sound. On the fouth-weft fide of the Royal 
 Sound, all the land to Cape George confifts of ele- 
 vated! 
 
PACIFIC O C E A K*. f ^ 
 
 rated hills, gradually riiing from the fea to a confider- 
 de height; they were naked and barren, and their 
 iminits capt with fnow. Not a veftige of a tree or 
 I rub wa» to be feen. Some of the low land about 
 )ape Digby feeiued to be covered with a green turf, 
 mt a confiderable part of it appeared quite naked. Pen- 
 ;uins, and other oceanic birds were numerous on the 
 )eaches, and fhags innumerable kept flying about our 
 lips. 
 
 Defirous of getting the length of Cape George, Cap- 
 tain Cook continued to ftretch to the fouth, till be- 
 tween feven and eight o'clock, when feeing no proba- 
 >ility of accomplifliing his defign, he took the advan- 
 tage of the wind, which had fliifted to weft fouth-weft 
 [the diredion in which we wanted to go) and ftood 
 From the coaft. 
 
 The French difcoverers imagined Cape Fran9ois to 
 [be the projedling point of a fouthern continent. The 
 lEngliih have difcovered that no fuch continent exifts, 
 land that the land in queftion is an ifland of fmall ex- 
 tent; which, from its fterility, might properly be 
 called the Ifland of Defolation; but Captain Cook was 
 [unwilling to rob Monfieur de Kerguelen of the honour 
 [of its bearing his name. 
 
 Mr. Anderfon, who dining the fhort time we lay in 
 [Chriftmas Harbour, loft no opportunity of learching 
 tiie country in every diredlion, relates the following 
 [particulars. 
 
 No place (fays he) hitherto difcovered in either he- 
 mifphere affords fo fcanty a field for the naturalift As 
 .this fteril fpot. Some verdure, indeed, appeared, when 
 at a fmall diftance from the fhore, which might raife 
 the expectation of meeting with a little herbage; but 
 all *:his lively appearance was occafioned by one fmall 
 plant refembling faxifrage, which grew up the hills in 
 large fpreading tufts, on a kind of rotten turf, which, 
 if dried, might ferve for fuel, and was the only thing 
 feen here that could pofTibly be applied to that purpofe. 
 Another plant, which grew to near the height of 
 [two fcet,^ was pretty plentifully fcattered about the 
 
 boggy 
 
t<1|0 
 
 4tj voyage to the 
 
 r.w 
 
 •ft 
 
 yi^M 
 
 ^iriM' 
 
 boggy declivities ; it hnd the appearance of a final: 
 cabbage when it was fliot into feeds. It had the waterv 
 acrid talle of the antifcorbutic plants, though it mate- 
 rially differed from the whole tribe. 
 
 Near the brooks and boggy places were found two' 
 other fmall plants, which were eaten as fallad ; tlie one 
 like garden crefles, and very hot, and the other very 
 mild : the latter is a curiofity, having not only male ' 
 and female, but alfo androgynus plants. 
 
 Some coarfe grafs grew pretty plentifully in a few 
 fmall fpots near the harbour, which was cut down for 
 our cattle. In fhort, the whole catalogue of plants 
 did not exceed eighteen, including a beautiful fpecit^ 
 of lichen, and feveral forts of mofs ; nor was there th« 
 appearance of a tree or flirub in the whole country. 
 
 Among the animals, the moft confiderable were 
 feals, which were diftinguiflied by the name of Tea- 
 bears, being the fort that are called the urfine feal. 
 They come on fhore to repofe and breed. At that 
 time they were fliedding their hair, and fo remarkably 
 tame, that there was no difficulty in killing them. 
 
 No oth^r quadruped was feen ; but a great number 
 of oceanic birds, as di^ckj, ftiags, petrels, &c. The 
 ducks were fomewhat like a widgeon, both in fize and 
 figure ; a confiderable number oi them were killed and 
 eaten J they were excellent food, and had not the leali 
 fiihy tafte. 
 
 The Cape petrel, the fmall blue one, and the fmall 
 black one, or Mother Gary's chicken, were not In 
 plenty here : but another fort, which is the largefl of 
 the petrels, and called by the feamen, Mother Carey^s 
 goofe, is found in abundance. This petrel is as large 
 as an albatrofs, anvl is carniverous, feeding on the dead 
 carcafes of feals, birds, &;c. 
 
 The greateft number of birds here were penguins, 
 which confift of three forts. The head of the large ft 
 is black, the upper part of the body of a leaden- grey, 
 the under part white, and the feet black ; two broad 
 ftripes of fine yellow defcend from the head to the 
 breaft ; the bill is of a reddiih colour, and longer than 
 
 in I 
 
fAClFic OCCAK. 
 
 21 
 
 the other forts. The fecond fort is about half tho^ 
 te of the former. It is of a blackifh grey on the np- 
 jr part of the body, and has a white fpot on the upper 
 irt of the head. The bill and feet are yellowifti. In; 
 le third fort, the upper part of the body and threat 
 black, the reft white, except the top of the head,' 
 fhich is ornamented with a fine yellow arch, which it. 
 m ere6t as two crefts. 
 
 The fhiigs here were of two forts, viz. the lefler cor- 
 
 )rant, or water-crow, and another with a blackifh. 
 
 ick and a white belly. The fea-fwallow, the tern, 
 
 le common fea-gull, and the Port Egmont hen, were 
 
 Ifo found here. The only fhell-fifh we faw here 
 
 rere a few limpets and mufcles. Many of the hills, 
 
 ktwithftanding they were of a moderate height, were 
 
 |t that time covered with fnow, though anfwering to 
 
 ^r June. 
 
 Captain Cook intending to proceed next to New- 
 Zealand, to take in wood and water, and provide hay 
 >r the cattle, fteered eaft by north from Kerguelen s 
 *aiid. The 31ft of December, our longitude, by ob- 
 frvation of the fun and moon, was 72*^ 33' 31" eaft ; 
 id on the firft day of the year 1777, we were in the 
 ititude of 48** 41 fouth, longitude 76^ 50' eaft. On 
 le 7th, Captain Cook difpatched a boat with orders to 
 "aptain Clerke, fixing their rendezvous at Adventure 
 by, in Van Diemen's Land, if the fhips ihould hap- 
 m to feparate before they arrived there ; howeverj we 
 iad the good fortune not to lofe company with each 
 )t]ier. 
 
 On the 19th, a fudden fquall carried away the Re- 
 tolution's fore-top-maft and main-top-gallant-maft, 
 ^hich occafioned fome delay in fitting another top- 
 laft. The former was repaired without the lofs of 
 ly part of it. The wind ftill remaining at the weft 
 )oint, we had clear weather, and on the 24th, in the 
 morning, we difcovered the coaft of Van Diemen's 
 Land. Several illands and elevated rocks lie difperled' 
 ilong the coaft, the moft foutherly of which is the 
 ' tewftone. Our latitude- at noon was 43 '^ 47' fouth,' 
 
 Ion- 
 
II 
 
 I ' 
 
 i 
 
 
 111 'ii. 
 
 i i: 
 
 mm 
 
 ! 
 
 i 
 
 t,l 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 'VJ\:. 
 
 longitude 147^ ed\, the fouth-eafl or fouth cape being 
 near three leagues diAant. Captain Cook gave the 
 name of the Eddyflone to a rock that lies about a 
 league to the eaflward of Swilly Ifle, or Rock, on ac- 
 count of its flriking refemblance to Eddyflone light- 
 houfe. Thefe two rocks may, even in the night, be 
 feen at a confiderable diAance, and are the fummits of 
 a ledge of rocks under water. 
 
 The 26th, at noon, a breeze fprung up at fouth- 
 eafl, which gave Captain Cook an opportunity of exe- 
 cuting his defign of carrying the fhips into Adventure 
 Bay, where we anchored at four o'clock in the after- 
 x.oon in twelve fathoms water, about three quarters of 
 a mile from the fhore. The Captains Cook and Clerke 
 then went, in feparate boats, in fearch d convenient 
 fpots for wooding, watering, and making hay. They 
 found plenty of wood and water, but very little grafs. 
 The next morning Captain Cook detached two parties 
 under the conduct of Lieutenant King, to the eaft fiile 
 of the bay, to cut wood and grafs, feme marines at- 
 tending them as a guard, though none of the natives 
 had yet appeared. He alfo fent the launch to provide 
 water for the fhips, and afterwards j)aid a vifit to the 
 parties thus employed. 
 
 In the evening we caught a great quantity of fifli, 
 with which this bay abounds ; and we fliould have pro- 
 cured more if our net had not broken. Every one 
 now came on board with the fupplies they had obtain- 
 ed: but n<^xt morning, the wind not being fair for 
 failing, they were again fent on fhore on the fame duty, 
 and Mr. Roberts, one of the Mates, was difpatched in 
 a boat to examine the bay. We had obferved columns 
 of fmoke in different parts, from the time of our ap- 
 proaching the coafl ; but we iaw none of the natives 
 till the afternoon of the 28th, when eight men and a 
 boy furprifed us with a vifit at our wooding-place. 
 They approached us with the greateft confidence, none 
 of them having any weapons except one, who had a 
 {hort flick pointed at one end. They were of a mid- 
 lUing ilatuie. and fomewhat fleudei^ their hair was 
 
 black 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. dj 
 
 lack and woolly, and their (kin was alfo black. They 
 
 ere entirely naked, with large pundures or ridges, 
 
 me in curved, and others in flraight lines, on difi^e- 
 
 nt parts of their bodies. Their lips were not re- 
 
 arkably thick, nor their nofes very flat; their fea« 
 
 wres, on the contrary, were not unpleafmg, their eyes 
 
 retty good, and their teeth tolerably even and regular, 
 
 hough exceedingly dirty. The faces of fome of them 
 
 ere painted with a red ointment, and moft of them 
 
 eared their hair and beards with the fame compofi- 
 
 tion. When we offered them prefents, they received 
 
 [them without any apparent fatisfadkion. They either 
 
 [returned or threw away fome bread that was given 
 
 them without even tailing it; they likewife refufed 
 
 [fome elephant fifli : but when we gave them fome birds, 
 
 they kept them. Two pigs having been brought on 
 
 Jfhore to be left in the woods, they feized them by the 
 
 [cars, and Teemed inclined to carry them off, witb^ au 
 
 [intention, as we fuppofed, of killing them. 
 
 Captain Cook wifhing to know the ufe of the ftick 
 I 'which one of the favages held in his hand, made Tigns 
 to them to fhew him ; upon which one of them took 
 aim at a piece of wood placed as a mark, about the dif- 
 tance of twenty yards, but after feveral effays he was 
 flill wide of the mark. Omai, to fhtew the great fu- 
 periority of our weapons, immediately fired his muf- 
 <juet at it, which unexpedled noife fo alarmed them, 
 that they ran into the woods with uncommon fpeed ; 
 and one of them was fo terrified, that he let fall two 
 knives and an axe which he had received from us. 
 They then went to the place where the crew of the 
 Difcovery were watering ; but the officer of that party 
 firing a mufquet in the air, they fled with great preci- 
 pitation. 
 
 Immediately after they had retired, Captain Cook 
 ordered the two pigs, one a maJe and the other a fe- 
 male, to be crrried about a mile within the woods, and 
 he himfelf faw them left there, taking care that none 
 ©f the natives iliould obferve what was paffuig. He 
 alfo intended to have left a young bull and a cow, be- 
 
 I fides 
 
9l4 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 fides fomc goats and fheep ; but he foon nelinqui/hed 
 that defign, ')eing of opinion that the natives would 
 deftroy them, which he fuppofed would be the fate of 
 the pigs, if they ihould chance to find them out : but as 
 fwine foon become wild, and arj fond of being in the 
 woods, it is probable that ihoy were preferved. The 
 other cattle could not have remained long concealed 
 from the favages, as they muft have been put into an 
 open place. 
 
 We w-ere prevented from failing on the 29th by a 
 dead calm, which continued the whole day. Captain 
 Cook, therefore, fent parties on fliore to cut wood 
 and ^rafs, as ufual, and he accompanied the wooding 
 party himfelf. Soon after our landing, about twenty 
 of 'them joined us, one of whom was diilinguiflied not 
 only by his deformity, but by the drollery of his gef- 
 t: eolations, and the feeming humour of his fpeeches, 
 which, however, we could not underftand, Thofe 
 whom we now faw differed in fome refpedts, particu- 
 Jarly in the texture of tlie hair, from the natives of the 
 more northerly parts of this country, whom Captain 
 Cook met with in his firfl voyage. Some of our pre- 
 f^nt company had a flip of the kangooroo Ikin round 
 their ancles, and others wore round their necks fome 
 fmall cord, made of fur. They feemed not to value 
 iron, but were apparently plealed with the medals and 
 beads that were given them. They did not even ap- 
 pear to know the ufe of fifh-hooks, though it is more 
 than probable, that they were acquainted with I'ome 
 method of catching fifli. 
 
 •'Their habitations were fmall hovels or flieds built of 
 Aicks, and covered with the bark of trees. ^ We had 
 alfo good reafon to fuppofe, that they fome'times took 
 up their refrdence in the trunks of large trees, hallowed 
 cut by fire. • -^.^ ,^. 
 
 Captain Cook, on lea^'ing the wooding party, went 
 to the grafs-cutters, and having, feen the boats loaded 
 with hay, returned on board. He had juft qiiitted the 
 fhore, when feveral women and children appeared, and 
 were introduced to Lieutenant King by the men who 
 
 accom- 
 
 I 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 as 
 
 tcompanied them. Their bodies were black, and 
 larked with fears like thofe of the men ; from whom, 
 bwever, they dilFeied, in having their heads fli^ved ; 
 ^me of them being completely Ihorn, others only oa 
 ^le fide, while the reft of them had the upper part of 
 leir heads (liaved, leaving a very narrow circle of hair 
 11 round. 
 
 In the afternoon Captain Cook went again on fhorty 
 
 id found the grafs-cutters on Penguin Ifland, where 
 
 iey had met with excellent grafs in the greateft abun- 
 
 ince. The diflPerent parties lulioured hard till tho 
 
 ivening, and then, having provided a fufficient quan- 
 
 itv ot" what was moft wanted, returned on board. 
 
 iMr. Anderfon, Surgeon of the Refoiution, employ- 
 himfelf in examining the country during our con- •' 
 Jiiiuance in Adventure liay. His remarks on the in- 
 lahitants, and his account of the natural produ<5\ions 
 if the country, are to the following purport. There 
 Is a beautiful fandy beach, about two miles long, at thes 
 KJttom of Adventure Bay, formed to all appearance 
 ►y the particles which the fea wafhes from a fine white 
 and-ltone. This beach is very well adapted for haul- 
 ng a feine. Jiehind it is a plaiii, with a brackifh lake, 
 >ut of which we caught, by angling, fome bream and 
 {rout. The p-^rts adjoining the bay are moitly hilly» 
 Uid are an entire foreft of tall trees, rendered almoil 
 hnpafiable by brakes of fern, ilirubs, &c. The foil on 
 the fl.it land, and on the lower part of the hills, is 
 Tandy, or confifts of a yellowifh earth, and in fome • 
 parts of a reddiili clay; but farther up the hills it is of 
 
 grey tough caft. Tliis country, upon the whole, 
 )ears many marks of being very dry, and the heat ap- 
 
 ?ars to be grtrat. No mineral bodies, nor ftones of 
 my otiier kind than the white fand ftone, were ob- 
 fferved by us; nor could we find any vegetables that 
 jafforded fubfiftence for mim. The roreft- trees are all ' 
 lof one kind, and generally quite ftraight; they bear 
 dufters of fmall white flowers. The principal plants 
 vve obferved were wood-forrel, milk-wort, cudweed, 
 |bell-i^o^ver, gladiolus, famphire, aad feveral kinds of 
 
 C frra. 
 
26 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 liiap 
 
 •'!'' ; 
 
 I 
 
 The only quadruped 
 fpecies of opoflum, about twice the fize of a large rat. 
 
 -The principal forts of birds in the woods are brown 
 hawks or eagles, crow??, large pigeons, yellow ifli pare 
 quets, and a fpecies which we called motacilla cyanea^ 
 from the beautiful azure colour of its head and neck. 
 On the ihore uere feveral gulls, black oyfter-catchers, 
 or fca-pies, and plover of a ftone-colour. 
 
 We obferved in the woods fome blackilh fnikes that 
 Vvcre pretty large, and we killed a lizard which was 
 fifteen inches long and fix round> beautifully clouded 
 with yellow and black. 
 
 Among a variety of fifh we caught fome large ray^, 
 nurfcs, leather-jackets, breams, foles, flounders, gur- 
 nards, and elephant-fifh. Upon the rocks are muf-' 
 cles and other Ihell-fifh; and upon the beach wefour*!! 
 ibme pretty Tvledufa's heads. The iv. i\ troublefome 
 infe6ls we met with were the mufqv ro ^^ and a large 
 black ant, whofe bite infli6ts extreme pain. 
 
 The inhabitants feemed mild and chearful, with 
 little of that wild appearance that favages in general 
 have. They are ahnoft totally devoid of perfonal ac- 
 tivity or genius, and are nearly upon a par with the 
 wretched natives of Terra del Fuego, They difplay, 
 however, fome contrivance in their method of cutting 
 their arms and bodies in lines of different directions, 
 raifed above ♦^^he furface of the Ikin. Their indifference 
 for our prefents, their general inattention, ?! J want 
 of curiofity, wer^ very remarkable, and te '. r.i no 
 acutenefs of underftanding. Their complexijn >; a 
 dull blacic, which they Ibmetimes heighten by im^-t- 
 ting their "bodiep. Their hair is perfe(5lly woolly, and 
 is clotted with greafe and red ochre, like that of the 
 Hottentots. Their nofes are broad and full, and the,|*^ 
 lower part of the face proje(5ts conliderably. Their | 
 eyes are of a mo(3erate fize. and though th'^y are not | 
 very quick or piercing, they give th=i cc ;,.?enance a 
 fr.mk, chearful, and pleafing cafl. Their leeth are 
 not very white nor well let, and thfir mouths are wide;| 
 tkey wear their beards lon^, and clotted with paint, 
 
 "'^heyl 
 
 I 
 
Pacific ocean. 
 
 a? 
 
 .. fi 
 
 "hey are upon the whole well proportioned, though 
 leir belly is rather protuberant. Their favourite at- 
 tude is to ftand with one fide forward, and one hand 
 rafping, acrofs the back, the oppofite arm, which, 
 
 this occafion, hangs down by the fide that proje<Sts. 
 
 Near the fhore, in the bay, we obferved fome 
 (retched conftruf^ions of fticks covered with- bark ; 
 It thefe feemed tu have been only temporary, and 
 ley had converted many of their largeft trees into 
 lore comfortable and commodious habitations. The 
 runks of thefe were hollowed out to the height of 
 or feven feet, by means of fire. Thefe places of 
 lelter are rendered durable, by their leaving one fide 
 
 the tree found, fo that it continues growing with 
 reat luxuriance. 
 
 That the natives of Van Diemcn's Land originate 
 km the fame flock with thofe u ho inhabit the nor- 
 lern parts of New Holland, feems evident. Thongfi 
 ley differ in many refpccS^s, their difTiinilarity rnay be 
 jaibnably accounted for, from the united confidera- 
 ions of diilance of place, length cf time, total fepar<<k- 
 ion, and divcrfity of climate. 
 
 On the 30th of January, in the morning, we 
 
 kighed anchor with a light weflerly breeze, from 
 
 idventure Bay. In the night between the 6th and 
 
 th of Februarv, one of the Difcoveiv's marines fdl 
 
 rerboard and was drowned. On che 1 0th, in th;i 
 
 fternocn, we defer ted ^he coafl of New-Zealand, at 
 
 le diflance of eight or nine leagues. We then fleered 
 
 <r Cape Farewell, and afterwards for Stephen s*s 
 
 lands; and in the morning of the 12th, anchored in 
 
 lip Cove, Queen Charlotte's Sound, We foon afrer 
 
 Inded many empty water-cafks, and cleared a \)]:.zc 
 
 )T two obfervatories. In the mean time feveral ( a- 
 
 L'^es came along fide oiir fliips; but very few of th^)'^ 
 
 dio uere in them would venture on board. l'hi$ 
 
 lynefs appeared the more extniordinarj, as Captain 
 
 foek vvas well known to all of them ; and as one mm 
 
 particular among the prefent group had been treatfd 
 V him with d:llingtiilh<d kiiulneis during a former 
 
 C l voyage.. 
 
a8 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 i-i 
 
 J :.(3 
 
 m 
 
 M.W il 
 
 Mi 
 
 voyage. This man, however, could not by any mean? 
 DC prevailed on to come on board. We could only 
 account for this referve, by fuppofing, that they were; 
 iipprehenfive of our revenging the death of Captain 
 Furneaux's people who had been killed liere. But,! 
 upon Captain Cook's afluring them of the continuance 
 of his friendfhip, and that he fhould not moleft them 
 on that account, they foon laid afide all appearance ct* 
 fufpicion and diftruft. The next day we pitched two 
 tents and erected the obfervatories, in which Meffrs. 
 King and Baily immediately commenced their aftrono- 
 uiical operations. Two of our men were employed in 
 brewing fpruce beer, while others filled the water- 
 calks, collected grafs for the cattle, and cut wood. 
 ^ k who remained onboard were occupied in re- 
 p..' ng the rigging, and performing the neceflary duty 
 of the (hips. A guard of marines was appointed for 
 the proteflion of the different parties on Ihore, and 
 arms were given to all the workmen, to repel all at- 
 tacks from the natives, if they had been inclined to 
 moleft us, but tliis did not appear to be the cafe. 
 
 During the courfe of this day, many families came 
 ffom various parts of the coaft^ and ere^fled their huts 
 clofe to our encampment. The facility with which 
 they build theie temporary habitations, is remarkable. 
 They have been feen to eve€t above twenty of them on 
 a fpot of ground, which was covered with plants and 
 ihrubs not an hoar before. Captain Cook was prefent 
 when a number of favages landed and built a village 
 of this kind. They had no fooner leaped from the ca- 
 noes, than they tore up the fhrubs and plants from the 
 ground they had pitched upon, or put up fome part of 
 the framing of a hut. While the men were thus em- 
 ployed, the women took care of the canoes, fecured 
 the provifions and utenfils, and gathered dry flicks to 
 ierve as materials for a fire. 
 
 We received conliderable advantage from the natives 
 coming to live with us; for every day fome of them 
 were occupied in catching fiHi, a good flore of which we 
 generally procured by exchanges. Befides fifh, we Kid 
 
 other 
 
r any means 
 could only 
 t they were 
 of Captain 
 liere. But, 
 ontinuance 
 loleft them 
 pearance ct" 
 (itched two 
 ich MefTis. 
 iir allrono- 
 nployed in 
 the water- 
 cut wood. 
 )ied hi re- 
 jflary duty 
 pointed for 
 fhore, and 
 pel all at- 
 inclined to 
 :are, 
 
 lilies came 
 their liuts 
 ith which 
 smarkahle, 
 )f them on 
 plants and 
 ■as prefent 
 
 a village 
 >m the ca- 
 i from tlie 
 me part of 
 
 thus em- 
 5, fecured 
 ' flicks to 
 
 •'I 
 I 
 
 *- 
 
 V :\A 
 
 
 :s-s 
 
 s / rC 
 
 • A- f 
 
 \ 
 
 V- . •■■ . s 
 
 id }'» 
 
 \-k 
 
 V , ' *• -i' 
 
 "/Jii,t Vi't 
 
 ^, . T^ 
 
 
 mi 
 
 he natives 
 2 of them 
 which we 
 1, we had 
 
 other 
 
I 
 
 !i 
 
 It 
 
 
 I 
 
 ;l! 
 
 li'iM'ji 
 
 ■in 
 
 It 
 
PACIFIC OC£AlT« 29 
 
 >ther refre/hments in sbundance, Scurvy-grafs, celery, 
 md portable foup were boiled every day with the 
 Iwheat and peafe, and we had fpruce beer for our drink, 
 [Such a regimen loon removed all feeds of the fcurvy 
 from our people, if any of them had contra6^ed it. But, 
 indeed, on our arrival here, we had only two invalids 
 [in both fhips. 
 
 We were occafionally vifited by other natives, be- 
 [ fides thofe who lived clofe to us. Among our occa- 
 fional vifitors was a chief called Kahoora, who headed 
 the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people. He 
 was far from being belovefd by his countrymen, fome 
 of whom even importuned Captain Cook to kill him, 
 at the fame time exprefling their difapprobation of him 
 in the fevereft terms. A ftriking proof of the divi- 
 fions that prevail among thefe people occurred to us ; 
 for the inhabitants of each village, by turns, folicited 
 our Commodore to deftroy the other. 
 
 Captain Cook, on the 15th, went in a boat tofearch 
 for gfaft, and vifited the hippah, or fortified village, 
 at the fouth-weft point of th^' ifland of Motuara. He 
 obferved no inhabitants at this village, though there 
 were evident marks of its having been lately occupied, 
 the houfes and palHfadoes being in a ftate of good re- 
 pair. Not the. fmalleft veftige remained of the Englifh 
 garden-feeds which had been planted at this hippah 
 in 1773, during Captain Cook's fecond voyage. They 
 had probably been all rooted out to make room for 
 buildings ; for at the other gardens then planted, we 
 found radiihes, onions, leeks, cabbages, purllain, po- 
 tatoes, &c. Though the natives of New Zealand ar« 
 fond of the laft-mentioned root, they had not planted 
 a fingie one, much lefs any of the othet articles we 
 had introduced among them. 
 
 Early in the morning of the i6th, the Captains 
 Cook and Clerke, and feveral of the officers and failors, 
 accompanied by Omai, and two New Zealanders, fet 
 out in five boats to colle6l fodder for the cattle. — 
 Having proceeded about thre" leagues up the Sound, 
 
 C 3 they 
 
% 
 
 ■ ii f 
 
 
 wm 
 
 mh 
 
 v'lv 
 
 m 
 
 30 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 they landed on the eaft fide, where they cut a fufiici- } 
 ent quantity of grafs to load the two launches. On | 
 their return down the Sound, they paid a vifit to 
 Cirafs Cove, the place where Captain lurneaux's peo- 
 ple had been maflacred. They here met with Cap- 
 tain Coolers old friend Pedro, who is mentioned by 
 him in the hiAory of his fecond voyage. He, and 
 another New Zealander, received them on the beach, 
 armed with the fpear and patoo, though not without 
 inanifeft iigns of fear. Their apprehenfions, how- 
 ever, were quickly diflipated by a few prefents, which 
 brought down to the fhore two or three others of 
 the family. 
 
 During the continiUince of our party at this place, 
 the Commodore, bpfng defirous of inquiring into ihe 
 particular circumf^ances relative to the mafTacre of our 
 countrymen, fixed upon Omai as an interpreter for 
 that purpofe, as his language was a dialed^ of that of 
 New Zealand. Pedro, and the other natives who w^ere 
 prefent, none of whom had been concerned in that un- 
 fortunate tranfadtion, anfwered every queilion without 
 referve. Their information imported, that while our 
 people were at dinner, fome of the natives ftole or 
 {hatched from them, fome fifti and bread, for which 
 oifence they received fome blows : a quarrel immedi- 
 ately enfued, and two of the favages were fhot dead 
 by the only two mufkets that were fired; for, before 
 a third was difcharged, the natives rufhed furioufly 
 upon our people, and being fuperior in number de- 
 ilroyed them all. Pedro and his companions alfo 
 pointed out the very fpot where the fracas happened, 
 and the place where the boat lay, in which a black 
 lervant of Captain Furneaux had been left to take care 
 
 of it. .-..:... :>^. 
 
 According to another account, this negro was the 
 occafion of the quarrel ; for one of tlie natives ileal - 
 ing fomething out of the boat, the black gave hini a 
 violent blow with a Hick. His countrymen hearing 
 his cries at fome difluace, imagined he was killed, and 
 immetliately attacked our people, who, before they 
 - ' '" k '} could 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 ■5» 
 
 jnnld re.ieh the boat, or prepare themfelves againft* the 
 jiinexpecfted aflTault, fell a (acrifice to the fury of the 
 'xafperated favages. 
 
 It appears that there was no pre meditated plan of 
 rloodilied, and that, if thefe thefts had not been rather 
 [too haftily refented, all niifchief would have !)een 
 [avoided : for Kahoora's greateft enemies acknowledged, 
 that he had no previous intention of quarrelling. VV iih 
 regard to the boat, fome faid, that it had been pulled 
 to pieces and burnt ; while others aflerted, that it had 
 been carried ofF by a party of ftrangers. 
 
 Our party continued at Grais Cove till the even- 
 ing, and then embarked to return to the fliips. On 
 Tuefday the i8th, Pedro and his whole family c^me 
 to refide near us. The proper name of this chief was 
 Matahouah; but fome of Captain Cook's people had 
 given him the name of Pedro in a former voyage. 
 
 On Friday the 21 (I, a tribe or family of about 
 thirty perfons came from the upper part of the Sound 
 to viiit us. Their chief was named Tomatongeauoora^ 
 nuc; he was about the age of fbrty^five, and had a 
 ff^nk, chearful countenance; and, indeed, the reft of 
 his tribe were, upon the whole, the handfomefl of all 
 the New Z^afanders that Captain Cook had ever feen. 
 By this time upwards of two-thirds of the natives of 
 Q|ueen Charlotte^s Sound had fettled near us, numbers of 
 whom daily reforted to the fhips and our encampment 
 on fhore; but the latter was moft frequented during the 
 time when our people there were making ieal blubber; for 
 the favages were fo fond of train oil, that they reliflied 
 the very dregs of the cafks and (kimmings of tlie 
 kettle, and confidered the pure (linking oil as a molt 
 delightful feaft. 
 
 When we had procured a competent fupply of hay, 
 wood, and water, we ftruck our tents, and the next 
 morning, which was the 24th, weighed out of the 
 Cove. jBut the wind not being fo fair as we could have 
 wiflied, we were obliged to cart anchor again near the 
 Ifle of Motuara. While we were getting under fail,. 
 Tomatongeauooranuc, M<itahouah, and many oihers 
 
 C4 of 
 
1 ' 
 
 ■!i ! 
 
 W\ 
 
 32 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 pf the natives, came to take leave of us. Thefc two 
 • chiefe having requeued Captain Cook to prefent them 
 ifvith feme hogs and goats, he gave to Tomatongeau- 
 ooranuc two pigs, a boar and a fow ; to Matahoiiah 
 two goats, a male and female, after they had promifcd 
 not to cleft roy them. 
 
 Before we had been long at anchor near Motuara, 
 feveral canoes, filled with natives, came towards us, and 
 we carried on a brilk trade with them for the curiofi- 
 ties of this place. In one of thefe canoes was Ka- 
 hoora, whom Omai immediately pointed out to Cap- 
 tain Cook, and folicited him to fhoot that chief; he 
 alfo threatened to be himfelf his executioner, if he 
 fhould ever prefume to pay us another vilit. I'hele 
 menaces of Omai had fo little influence upon Kahoora, 
 that he returned to us the next morning, accompa- 
 nied 'with his whole family. Omai, having obtained 
 Captain Cook's permifHon to afl^ him on board, intro- 
 duced him into the cabin, faying, " There is Kahoora ; 
 
 «< difpatch him." Butj fearing pcrhtsps tkat he fliculu 
 
 Ibe called upon to put his former threats in execution, 
 he inftantly retired. He foon, however, returned ; and 
 perceiving that the chief was unhurt, he eameftly re- 
 jnonft rated to Captain Cook on the fubjc<ft; faying, 
 that if a man killed another in England, he was hai^ged 
 for it, but that Kahoora had killed ten, and therefore 
 juftly deferved death. Thefe arguments, however plau- 
 fible, had no weight with our Commodore, Who de- 
 fired Omai to a(k the New-Zealand chief, why he had 
 deftroyed Captain Furneaux's people ? Kahoora, cOn- 
 ibunded at this queftion, hung down his head, folded 
 his arms, atid teemed in expe^ftation of immediate death : 
 but, as foon as he was afTured of fafety, he became 
 chearful. He appeared, hov/^ver, -ii^willing to anfwer 
 the queftion which had been put tohii»> till after repeat- 
 ed promifes that no violence fhould be ofFcred.to him. 
 He then ventured to inform us, that one of the na- 
 tives having brought a flone hatchet for the purpofe 
 of traific, the perlon to whom it was offered, took it, 
 ^d t«fufe4 either to return it or give any thing in 
 
 exchange; 
 
PACIFIC O C E A K. J^ 
 
 exchange; upon which the owner of it fef^ed forae 
 bread by way of equivalent ; and this gave rife to the 
 ixiuarrel that enfiiecl. He alfo mentioned, that he hini- 
 felf, during the diftiirbance, had a narrow efcape ; for 
 a mufquet was levelled at him, which he found means 
 to avoid by (kulking behind the boat ; and another man, 
 who happened to ftand clofe to him, was fliot dead : 
 upon which Kahoora attacked Mr. Rowe, the officer 
 who commanded the party, who defended himfelf with 
 his hanger, with which he gave the chief a wound in 
 the arm, till he was overpowered by fuperiority of 
 numbers. Mr. Burney, whom Captain Furneaux dif- 
 patched the next day with an armed party in fearch of 
 his people who were miffing, had, upon difcovering 
 the melancholy proofs of this cataftrophe, fired feveral 
 voUies among the natives who were fVill on the fpot, 
 and were probably partaking of the horrid banquet of 
 human flefh. It was reafonable to fuppofe that this 
 firing was not inefJedlual ; but upon inquiry it appear- 
 ed, that not a fingle perfon had been killed, or even 
 hurt, by the fhot which Mr. Burncy's people had dif- 
 charged. 
 
 Before our arrival in New Zealand, Omai had ex- 
 preffed a defire of taking one of the natives with him 
 to his own country. He focn had an opportunity of 
 gratifying his inclination, for a youth named Tawei- 
 harooa, the only fon of a deceafed chief, offered to ac- 
 company him, and took up his refidence on board. 
 Captain Cook caufed it to be made known to him and 
 all his friends, that if the youth departed with us he 
 would never return. This declaration, however, had 
 noeffe<5l. The day before we quitted the Cove, Ti- 
 ratoutou, his mother, came to receive her lal^ prefent 
 from Omai; and the fame evening fh^ and her fbtt* 
 parted, with all the marks of the tenderefl afFed^ion': 
 but fhe faid fhe would weep no more, and faithfully 
 kept her word ; for the next morning, when fhe re* 
 turned to take her lafl farewel of Taweiharooa^ fhe 
 was quite chearful all the time fhe remained on board,- 
 and departed with great unconcern, A boy of about 
 
 C 5 ten 
 
'v,i 
 
 ^t.TJItllii.i 
 
 % ■ W\ 
 
 • 
 
 Mr; 
 
 34 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ten years of age accompanied Tawciharooa as a fervant; 
 his name was Kokoa. He was prefented to Captain 
 Cook by his own father, who parted with him With | 
 fuch incfifterence, as to ftrip him and leave him entire- 
 ly naked. The Captain having in vain endeavoured to 
 convince tliefe people of the great improbability of 
 thefe youths ever returning home, at length confenteii 
 to their going. 
 
 The inhabitants of New Zealand feem to live under 
 continual apprehenlions of being deftroyed by each 
 other ; moft of their tribes having, as they think, fuf- 
 ^ined injuries from fome other tribe, which they are 
 ever eager to revenge ; and it is not improbable, that 
 the defire of a good meal is frequently a great incite- 
 ment. They generally fteal upon the adverfe party in 
 the night, and if they chance to find them unguarded, 
 which is feldom the cafe, they kill every one without 
 diftindlion, without fparing even the women and chil- 
 dren. When they have completed thf 'nhuman maf- 
 iacre, they either gorge themfelves on fpot, or car- 
 ry off as many dead bodies as they can, and feaft on 
 them at home, with the moft horrid adls of brutality. 
 If they are difcovered before they have time to execute 
 their fanguinary purpofe, they ufually fteal off again, 
 and fometimes they are puruied and attacked by the 
 adverfe party in their turn. They never give quarter, 
 or take prifoners, fo that the vanquifhed muft truft to 
 flight alone for fafety. From t|jis ftate of perpetual 
 holtility, and this deltrudlive mode of carrying it on, 
 a New Zealandtr derives fuch habitual vigilance and 
 circuinfpedtion, that he is fcarce ever off his guard : 
 and, indeed, thefe people have the moft powerful mo- 
 tives to be vigilant, as the prefervation of both foul 
 and body depends on it ; for it is a part of their creed, 
 that the foul of the man whofe flefti is devoured by 
 his enemies, is condemned to an inceffant fire ; while 
 the foul of him whofe body has been refcued from thofe 
 that flew him, as well as the fouls of thofe who die a 
 natural death, afcend to the man (tons of the gods. 
 
 Their ordinary method of difpofmg of their dead is 
 
 I to 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. , . S5 
 
 to commit their bodies to the earth : but when they 
 have more of their llain enemies tlun they can conve- 
 niently cut, they throw them into the Tea. There are 
 no moruiSf or other places of public worfliip ampng 
 jhem; but they have priefts, who pray to the gods for 
 the fuccefs of their temporal affairs. The principles 
 of their religion, of which we know but little, are 
 Arongly inftilled into them from their infancy. 
 
 Notvvithftanding the divided ftate in which thefc 
 people live, travelling flrangers, whofe defigns are ho- 
 nourable, are well received and entertained; but it is 
 expe(f^ed that they will remain no longer than their 
 bufinefs requires. It is thus that a trade for green 
 talc, which they call pocnammoo^ is carried on. They 
 informed us, that none of this ftone is to be found, ex- 
 cept at a place which bears its name^ near the head of 
 Qiieen Charlotte's Sound. 
 
 The New Zealanders have adopted polygamy among 
 them, and it is commoa for one man to have two or 
 three wives ; but thofe who are unmarried find difiv- 
 culty in procuring fubfiftence, 
 
 Thefe people feem perfectly contented' with the fm^ll 
 degree of knowledge they poflefs, for they make no at- 
 tempts to improve it. They are not remarkably cu- 
 rious, nor do new objedls ftrike them with much fuf- 
 prife, for they fcarce fix their attention for a moment. 
 Omai, indeed, being a great favourite with then), 
 would fometimes attradl a circle about him ; but they 
 liflened to his fpeeches with very little eagernefs. 
 
 The longitude of ShipCove, by lunar obfervationi, 
 is 174° 25 15' eafl; its latitude, 41° 6' fouth. 
 
 About Queen Charlotte's Sound the land is uncom- 
 monly mountainous, rifing immediately from the f^'a 
 into large hills. At remote dillances are vallies, ter- 
 minuting each towards the fea in a fmall ^ove, with a 
 pebbly or fandy beach ; behind which are flat places, 
 where the natives ufually build their huts. This fi^u- 
 at ion is the more convenient, us a. brook of fina water 
 luns through every cpvp, and empj^ie?' itfcjf into the fea. 
 

 ■.iir 
 
 14: 
 
 'As 
 
 iUi 
 
 
 
 ^^ A VOYAGE TO TUt 
 
 The bafes of thefe mountains towards the ftiore are 
 '^'^ Conilituted of a brittle yellowifh fand-ftone, which 
 ^ acquires a blueifh caft where it is laved by the lea. At 
 ; foiine places it runs in horizontal, and at others, in 
 ^oblique ftrata. The mould or foil by which it is co- 
 yered refembles marie, and is, in general, a foot or 
 • two in thicknefs. 
 
 *' " The luxuriant growth of the produ6tions here, fuf- 
 ficiently indicates the quality of the foil. The hills, ex- 
 cept a few towards the fea, are one continued foreft of 
 lofty trees, flouriihing with fuch uncommon vigour, 
 as to afford an augull: profpedt to the admirers of the 
 fublime and beautiful works of nature. 
 
 This extraordinary ftrength in vegetation is, doubt- 
 lefs, greatly afllfted by the agreeable temi^rature of 
 "the climate ; for at this time, though anfvvering to our 
 month of Auguft, the weather was not fo waim as to 
 'be difagreeable, nor did it raife the thermometer iirgber 
 than 66^. The Winter, alfo, feems equally mild with 
 tefp ^'fi to cold ; for in tlie month which correfponds 
 to our December, the mercury was never lower than 
 4^*^, the trees at the fame time retaining their verdure, 
 ^ if in the height of fummer. 
 
 Though the weather IS generally good, it is'fome- 
 times windy, "with heavy rain ; which, however, is ne- 
 ver exceflive, and dees not laft above a day. In (hort, 
 this would be one of the iineft countries upon eartli 
 were it not fo extremely hilly ; which, fuppofing the 
 woods to be cleared away, would leave it lefs proper 
 'for paftu'ige than flat land, and infinitely lefs fo for 
 cultivation, which could never be affeiled here by the 
 plough. 
 
 The largf: trees on the hills are principally of two 
 forts. One of them, of the fizc of our largefl firs, 
 grows nearly after their manner. This fupplied the 
 place of fpruce in making beer; which we did, with a 
 deco^ion of its leaves fermented with' fugar or treacle ; 
 and this liquor was acknowledged to be little inferior to 
 American fpruce-beefl The other fort of tree is tik^ 
 a inajjile, and often grows very large, but is fit only 
 
 . . fcr 
 
 ^■^ ■■',1 
 
PACIFIC « E A N. 37^ 
 
 for (iiel ; the wood of that, and of the preceding^ being 
 too heavy for marts, yards, &c. 
 
 A greater variety of trees grow on the flats behind 
 the beaches : two of thefe bear a kind of pKimb, Of the 
 ilze of prunes; the one, which is yellow, is callfed 
 karraca, and the other, which is black, called maitao; 
 but neither of them had a pleafant tafte, though eaten 
 both by our people and the natives. 
 
 On the eminences which jut out into the fer grows 
 a fpecies of philadelphus, and a tree bearing flowers 
 ?lmoft like myrtle. We ufed the leaves of the phila- 
 delphus as tea, and found them an excellent fubftitute 
 for the oriental fort. 
 
 A kind of wild celery, which grows plentifully in 
 alinoft every cove, may be reckoned among the plants 
 that were ufeful to us, and another that we ufed to call 
 fcurvy-grafs. Both forts were boiled daily with wheat 
 ground in a mill for the people's bre^kfalt, and with 
 their peafe-foup for dinner. Sometimes, alfo, they 
 were ufed as fallad, or drefled as greens. In all which 
 ways they are excellent ; and, together with the fi{h> 
 with which we were amply fupplied, they farmed il 
 moft defirable refrefliment. 
 
 The known kinds of plants to be found here are 
 bindweed, night-ftiade, nettles, a fhrubby fpeedwell, 
 fow-thiftles, virgin's bower, vanelloe, French willow, 
 euphorbia, crane's-bill, cudweed, rufhes, bulrufhes,^ 
 flax, all-heal, American night-fhiade, knot-grafs, bram- 
 bles, eye-bright, and groundfel ; but the fpecies of each 
 are different from any we have in Europe, 
 
 There are a great numbe: of other plants, but one 
 in particular deferves to be noticed here, as the gar- 
 ments of the natives are made from it. A flne filky. 
 flax is produced from it, fuperior in appearance to any' 
 thing we have in this country, and, perhaps, as ftrong,^ 
 It grows in all places near the fea, and fometimes a 
 coufiderable way up the hills, in bunrhes or tuftSj 
 bearing yellow im flowers on a long ftalk. 
 
 It is remarkable, that the greateft part of the trees 
 and plants were of the berry-bearing kind ; of which, 
 
 and 
 
li 
 
 iMi! 
 
 
 ill!!;; 
 
 m 
 
 If-" ' 
 
 'IS: i'-. ' 
 
 38 AVOYAGE TOT^IE 
 
 and other feeds, Mr. Anderfon brought away about 
 thirty different forts. 
 
 The birds, of which there is a tolerable good ftock, 
 are almofl entirely peculiar to the place. It would be 
 diflicult and fatiguing to follow them, on account of 
 the quantity of underwood and the climbing plants ; 
 yet any perlbn, by continuing in one place, may flioot 
 as many in a day as would ferve feven or eight perfons. 
 The principal kinds are large brown parrots, with grey 
 heads, green parroquets, large wood-pigeons, and two 
 forts of cookoos. A grofs-beak, about the fize of a 
 thrufh, is frequent ; as is alfo a fmall grgsn bird, which 
 is almoft the only mufical one to be found here : but his 
 melody is fo fweet, and his notes fo varied, that any 
 one would imagine himfclf furrounded by a hundred 
 different forts of birds wtien the little waibler is ex- 
 erting himfelf. JFrom this circumftance is was named 
 the mocking-bird. There are alfo three or four forts 
 of fmaller birds, and among the rocks are found black 
 fea-pies, with red bills, and crefted fhags of a leaden 
 colour. About the fhore there are a few fea-gulls, 
 fome blue herons, wild ducks, plovers, and fome fand- 
 larks. A fnipe was fhot here, which differs but little 
 from that of Europe. 
 
 Moff of the fifii we caught by the feine were ele- 
 phant-fifh, mullets, foles, and flounders : but the na- 
 tives fupplied us with a fort of fea-bream, large conger- 
 ells, and a fifti of five or fix pounds weight, called a 
 mogge by the natives. With a hook and line we 
 cawght a hlackifli fifh, called cole-fifh by the feameii^ 
 but <liffering greatly from that of the fame name in 
 Europe. We alfo got a fort of fmall falmon, fkait-, 
 gurnards, and nurfes. The natives fometimes, furnifh- 
 tid us with hake, paracutas, parrot-fifh, a fort of macr 
 karel, and leather jackets ; befules another, which is 
 extremely fcarce, of the figure of a dclplun, a black 
 colour, and ftrong bony jaws. Thefe, in general, are 
 excellent to eat ; but the fmall falmon, cole-fiili, and 
 mogge, are fuperior to the others. 
 
 Great quantities of excellent mufcles inhabit among 
 
 ^i 
 
'->. PACIFIC OCEAN* 39 
 
 the rocks, one fort of which exceecls a foot in length* 
 Many cockles are found buried in the fand of the fmall 
 beaches ; and in fome places, oyfters, which, though 
 very fmall, have a good flavour. There are alio per- 
 riwinkles, limpets, wilk?, fea-eggs, ftar-fiih, and fome 
 beautiful fea-ears, many of which are peculiar to the 
 place. The natives alio furniflied us with fome excel- 
 lent cray-fi(h. 
 
 Infedts here are not very numerous : we faw fome 
 butterflies, two forts of dragon-flies, fome fmall grafs- 
 hoppers, feveral forts of fpiders> fome black ants, and 
 fcorpion flies innumerable, with whofe chirping the 
 woods refounded. The fand-fly, which is the only 
 noxious one, is very numerous here, and is almoft as 
 difagreeable as the mufquito. The only reptiles we 
 faw here were two or three forts of inoiFenfive lizards. 
 
 In this extenfive land it is remarkable, that there 
 fhould not even be the traces of any quadruped, except 
 a few rats, and a kind <>{ fox dog, which is kept by the 
 natives as a domeflic animal. "'* ^ 
 
 They have not any mineral deferving notice, but a 
 great jafper or ferpent ftone, of which the tools and or- 
 naments of the inhabitants are made. 
 
 The natives, in gen al, are not fo well formed, 
 efpecially about the limbs, as the Europeans, nor do 
 they exceed them in ftature. J'heir fitting io much 
 on their hams, and being deprived, oy the mountainous 
 difpofition of the country, of ufing that kind f exer- 
 cife which would render the body ftrai ht and well- 
 proportioned, is probably the occafion or the w\int of 
 due proportion. Many of them, indeed, are perfe6tly 
 formed, and fome are very large boned and a>ufcular; 
 but very few among them were corpulent. 
 
 *l"heir features are various, fome r€fembling Euro^ 
 peans, and their colour is of different cafts, from a 
 deepifh black to an olive or yellowifli tinge. In gene- 
 ral, however, their faces are round, their lips rather 
 full, and their nofes (though not flat) large toward<; 
 the point. An aquiline nofe was not to be feen apiong 
 them : their eyes are large, and their teeth arc com- 
 monly 
 
:i.i >: 
 
 i ' I r 
 
 
 ■ ,'*!■; 
 
 .i"i* 
 
 Ili'i 
 
 at u^ 
 
 f'" 
 
 
 J ■ ' 
 
 
 rj|I 
 
 '■'i 
 
 ||i 
 
 ; i' 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 l«t 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ttionly bropd, white, and regular. Their hair, in gcii > 
 ral, is black, ftrong, and ftraight; it is commorly 
 cut fliort on the hinder part, and the reft lied qn the 
 crown gf the head ; i'ome, indeed, have brown hair, 
 and others a fort that is naturally difpofed to eurl. 
 The countenance of , the young is generally free and 
 ©pen ; but in many of the wen it has a ferious or ful- 
 len caft. The men are larger than the women ; and 
 the latter are not diftinguifliea by peculiar graces, 
 either of form or features. ,ii> , ) iUcA t 
 
 Both fexes are clothed alike ; they have a garment 
 made of the filky flax already mentioned, about five 
 feet in length and four in breadth. Thii appears to he 
 their principal manufadture, which is performed by 
 knotting. Two corners of this garment pafs over the 
 ihoulders, and they faflen it on the breafl with that 
 which covers the fcfody ; it is again faflened about the 
 helly with a girdfe made of mat. Sometimes they 
 cover it with dog-lkin or large feathers. Many of 
 them wear coats over this garment, extending from 
 tlje fliouiders to the heels. The moil common cover- 
 ing, however,:is a quantity of the fedgy plant above 
 mentioned, badly manufa^ured, faftened to a firing, 
 and thrown over the. fliouiders, whence it falls down on 
 all fides to the middle of the thighs. When they fat 
 down in this habit, they could hardly be diflinguifhed 
 from large grey fkones, if their black heads did not pro- 
 jed^ beyond their coverings. 
 
 They adorn their heads with feathers, combs of bone 
 or wood, with j earlfhell, and the inner fkin of leaves. 
 Both men and women have their ears flit, in which 
 are hung beads, pieces of jafper, or bits of cloth. Some 
 have the fceptum of the nofe bored in its lower part, 
 but we never faw any ornament wore in that psurt; 
 though a twig was pafl'ed through it by one of them^ 
 to fh^w that it was occai' onally ufed for that purpofe. 
 
 Many are flainetl in the face with curious figures 
 
 of a black or dark blue colour; but it is not certain 
 
 whether this is intended to be ornamental, or as a mark 
 
 of particular diftindlign : the ^jcmen are m^irked only 
 
 -: ' . on 
 
 n 
 
tACiriC OCEAX. 
 
 *t 
 
 , ingeii> 
 ammorly 
 2(1 on ihe 
 )Nvn hair, 
 . to eurj. 
 r free and 
 us or lul- 
 nen ; and 
 ir graces, 
 
 I garment 
 
 ibout five 
 
 •ears to be 
 
 )rmed by 
 
 » over tjie 
 
 with that 
 
 ibout the 
 
 mes they 
 
 Many of 
 
 iing from 
 
 on cover- 
 
 nt above 
 
 a firing, 
 
 down on 
 
 1 they fat 
 
 nguifhed 
 
 not pro- 
 
 s of bone 
 if leaves, 
 n which 
 1. Some 
 rer part, 
 at paurt; 
 f them^ 
 urpofe. 
 s figures 
 t certain 
 : a mark 
 ccd only 
 
 00 
 
 ©n their lips and chins ; and both fexes befmear their 
 heads and faces with a greafy reddifh paint. The wo^ 
 J men ahb wear necklaces of fhark's teeth, or bunches 
 of long beads ; and a few of them have fmall triangu- 
 lar aprons, adorned with feathers, or pieces of pearl 
 fhells, fartened about the waifl with a double or treble 
 fet of cords. 
 
 They live in the fmall coves already mentioned, 
 I fometimes in fingle families, and fometimes in compa- 
 jnies of perhaps forty or fifty. Their huts, which are 
 in general moll miferable lodging places, are built con- 
 tiguous to each other. The bell we faw was built in 
 ithe manner of one of our country barns, and was 
 I about fix feet in height, fifteen in breadth, and thirty- 
 i three in length. The infide was flrong and regular, 
 well faftened by means of withes, &c. and painted red 
 and black. At one end it had a hole ferving as a doot 
 to creep out at, and another, confiderably fmaller, 
 feemingly for the purpofe of letting out the fmoke, 
 iTViJc. ^^owftver. ou<*"ht ^^ ^** r'>r>/?fi^vA''— «< --"^ ^^f thf*\^ 
 
 [palaces, for many of their huts are not half the fize, 
 Und feldom are more than four feet in height. 
 I They have no other furniture than a few fmall bags 
 ICr balkets, in which they depofit their fifhing-hooks 
 m\i\ other trifles. They fit down in the middle round 
 la fmall fire, and probably fleep in the fame fituationj 
 without any other covering than what they have worn 
 hi the day. ' 
 
 Fifliing is their pnncipal fupport, in which they ufe 
 litlerent kinds of nets, or wooden fifh-h'ooks pointed 
 fv'ithbone; but made in fo extraordinary a manner', 
 ihat it appears aflonifliing how they can anfwer fuch k 
 Surpole. .^ . J- • 
 
 T"heir boats confifl of planks raifed upon each other', 
 ind fiftened wdth flreng withes. Many of them ari 
 ^fry feet long. Sometimes they faflen two together 
 V ith rafters, which we call a doubfe canoe : they fie- 
 [uently carry upwards of thirty men, and have a large 
 lead, ingenioufly carved and painted, which fecms in* 
 ^nded toreprefent a man enraged. Their paddles are 
 
 narrow. 
 
■ Ttl ', 
 
 • V!'- 
 
 Bi'!^' ■ ':' 
 
 iilpi'l 
 
 42 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 narrow, pointed, and about five feet long. Their fivil, 
 which is very little ufed, is a mat formed into a trian- 
 gular fhape. 
 
 They drefs their fifh by roafting, or rather baking 
 them, being entirely ignorant of the art of boiling. 
 It is thus they alfo drefs the root of the large fern-tree, 
 in a hole prepared for that purpofe : when drefTed, they 
 i'piit it, and find a gelatinoias fubftance within, fomc- 
 what like fago powder. The fmaller fern-root feems to 
 be their fubflitute for bread, being dried and carried 
 about with them, together with great* quantities of 
 dried fifh, when they go far from their habitations. 
 
 When the weather will not fuffer them to go to Tea, 
 mufcles and fea-ears fupply the place of other fiih. 
 Sometimes, but not often, they kill a few penguins, 
 rails, and fhags, which enable them to vary their diet, 
 Confiderable numbers of their dogs are alfo bred for 
 food ; but they depend principally on the fea for their 
 fubfillenccj by which they are moft bountifully fup- 
 plied. 
 
 They are as filthy in their teeaing as in their per- 
 Tons, which often emit a very offenfive effluvia, from 
 the quantity of greafe about them, and from their ne- 
 ver wafliing their cloaths : their heads are plentifully 
 flocked with vermin, which they fometimes eat. Large 
 
 Saantities of linking train oil, and blubber of feats, 
 ley would eagerly devour. When on board the fliips, 
 they not only emptied the lamps, but a(5^ually fwallow- 
 cd the cotton with equal voracity. Though the inha- 
 bitants of Van Diemen's Land would not even tafte 
 our bread, thefe people devoured it with the greateft 
 eagernefs, even when it was rotten and mouldy. 
 
 In point of ingenuity, they are not behind any unci- 
 vilized nations under flmilar circumftances ; for, with- 
 out the afiiflance of metal tools, they make every thing 
 by which they procure their fubfiltence, cloathiftg, and 
 warlike weapons, with neatnefs, llrength, and conve- 
 nience. Their principal mechanical tool is formed iuj 
 the manner of an adze, and k made of the ferpent- 
 ilone or jafper; their chiiTel and gouge are furnifhedl 
 
 froru 
 
PACIFIC O C E A K. 43 
 
 rom the fame material, though they are fometimei 
 
 ompofed of black folid flone. Carving, however, U 
 
 heir niafler-piece, which appears upon the mod tri- 
 
 ing things : the ornaments on the heads of their ca- 
 
 ots, not only difplay mach defign, but execution. 
 
 j htlr cordage for fiihing lines is not inferior to that in 
 
 liis country, and their nets are equally good. A 
 
 licli, a bit of flint or jafper, is their fubftitute for a 
 
 nife; and a fhark's tooth, fixed in the6nd of a piece 
 
 f wood, is their auger. They have a fliw miide of 
 
 me jagged fiflies teeth, fixed on a piece of wood nice- 
 
 y carved : but this isufed for no other purpofe than lo 
 
 :iit up the bodies of thofe whom they kill in battle. 
 
 Though no people are more ready to refent an in- 
 ury, yet they take every opportunity of bein^ infolcnt 
 hen they apprehend there is no danger ot punifli- 
 ent ; whence it may be concluded, that their cager- 
 efs to rtfent injuries is rather an cfFe<El of a furious 
 iipofition than genuine bravery. They are naturally 
 illruftful and fufpiciousj for fuch as are iir^ngers ne- 
 ar venture immediately to vifit our fhips, but keep at 
 fmall diflance in their boats, obferving our motions, 
 nd hefitating whether they fhould rifk their fafety 
 ith us. They are to the lafl degree difhonefl, and 
 eal every thing within their reach, if they fuppofe 
 ey can efcape detedtion ; and in trading they feem in- 
 lined to take every poffible advantage, for they never 
 ufl an article out of their hands for examination, and 
 em highly pleafed if they have over-reached you in 
 bargain. • 
 
 Their public contentions are almoll perpetual, for 
 ar is their principal profeffion, as appears from the 
 limber of weapons, and their dexterity in ufing them. 
 , heir arms are fpears, patoos and halberts, and fomc- 
 imes ftones. The firft are from five to thirty feet 
 ng, made of hard wood and pointed. The patoo is 
 out eighteen inches long, of an elliptical fhape, with 
 handle made of wood, (lone, &cc. and appears to be 
 eir principal dependance in battle. The halbert is 
 out five or fix feet in length, tapering at one end 
 
 with 
 
I,;lr I 
 
 44. A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 with a carved head, and broad or flat, with fharp edges, | 
 at the other. 
 
 Before the onfet, they join in a war fong, keeping! 
 the exa^eft time; and by degrees work themfelves in- 
 to a "kind of frantic fury, accompanied with the moft 
 horrid diflortions of their tongues, eyes, and mouths, 
 in order to deter their enemies. To this fucceeds a 
 circumftance that is mofl horrid, cruel, and difgrace- • 
 ful to human nature, which is mangHng and cutting to 
 pieces (even when not perfe<^Iy dead) the bodies of 
 their enemies; and, after roafting them, devouring 
 the Bj^fh with pecuhar pleafure and fatisfadlion. ' 
 
 It might naturally be fuppofed, that thofe who 
 co>iiId be capable of fuch excefs of cruelty, muft be . 
 totally deftitute of every humane feeling ; and yet they ^ 
 lament the lofs of their friends in a manner the moil M 
 tender and aftet^ionate. ixj « 
 
 BOOK n. 
 
 m 
 
 
 CONTAINING OUR ADVENTURES rROM OUR DE« 
 FARTURE FROM N^.W ZEALAND, TILL OUR 
 ARRIVAL AT OTAHEITE, OR THE SOCIETY 
 ISLANDS. 
 
 X N the morning of the a5th of February, we left 
 the Sound, ^nd made fail through Cook's Straits. On | 
 the 27th, Cape Pallifer bearing weft about feven leagues | 
 diftant, we had a 6ne gale, and (leered towards tho 
 north-eaft. As foon as we loft Tight of land, our two 
 young New Zeateanders heartily repented of the ad- 
 venturous ftep they had taken. Though we endea- 
 voured as far as lay in bur power to (both them, tl^ey J 
 wept, both in public and private ; and gave vent to 
 their forrows in a kind of fong, which Teemed to ex- 
 prefs their p>raife& of their country and people, froini 
 which they were now. In all probability, to be fori 
 ever feparated* They continued in this ftate for fe*| 
 
 verall 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 45 
 
 reral days, till, at leiigth, the agitation of their minds 
 ►egan to Tubfide, and their fea^ficknefs, which ag- 
 rravated their grief, wore oft'k Their lamentations 
 'hen became lefs and lefs frequent; their native coun- 
 try, their kindred artd friends, were gradually forgot- 
 ten, and they appeared to he firmJy attached to uiu 
 
 On tlie 28th at noon, we were in the latitude of 
 
 .1*^ 17' fouth, and in the longitude of 177*^ 17' eaft: 
 
 iikI after encountering various winds, we croffed the 
 
 jl'ropic on the 27th of March. In all this run, we 
 
 ^bferved notliing that could induce us to fuppofe we 
 
 lad failed near any land, except occalionally a tropic 
 
 >ird. On the aoth, as we were ftanding to thenorth- 
 
 taft, the Difcovery made the fignal of feeing land. 
 
 IVV e foon found it to be a fmall illand, and flood for it 
 
 till the evening, when it was at the diftance of two or 
 
 [three leagues. The next morning, at day-break, we 
 
 jbore up for the weft fide of the ifland, and faw feveral 
 
 Ipcople wading to the reef, where, as they obferved the 
 
 Ihip leaving them quickly, they remained. But others 
 
 [who foon appeared, followed her courfe, and fome of 
 
 [them afTembled in fmall bodies, making great (houts. 
 
 Upon our nearer approach to the fhor^, we faw many 
 
 >f the natives running along the beach, and by the 
 
 laflTiiliance of our glafles, could perceive that they were 
 
 [armed with long fpears and clubs, which they bran- 
 
 [diihed in the air with figns of threatening, or as fome 
 
 )f us fuppofed with invitations to land. Moft of 
 
 hem were naked, except having a kind of girdle which 
 
 ras brought up between their thighs; but fome of 
 
 them wore about their flioulders pieces of cloth of va- 
 
 cious colours, white, llriped, or chequered; and almod 
 
 dl of them had about their heads a white wrapper, 
 
 [n fome degree refembling a turban. They were of 
 
 tawny complexion, robuft, and about the middle 
 
 lie. 
 
 A fmall canoe was now launched from the moft dif- 
 tant part of the beach, and a man getting into it, put- 
 >ft as with a view of reaching the ftiip, but his cou- 
 rage failing, he quickly retirned towards tlie beach.* 
 
 Ano- 
 

 1. 
 
 ■;l 
 
 1"^ 
 
 46 A V O Y A 6 E T O T M E 
 
 Another man foon after joined him in the canoe, and 
 then both of them paddled towards us. They feemed, 
 however afraid to approach, till their apprehenfions 
 were partly removed by Omai, who addrefled them 
 in the language of Otaheite. Thus encouraged, they 
 came near enough to receive fome nails and beads, 
 which being tied to fome wood, were thrown into the 
 canoe. They however put the wood afide without 
 untying the things from it, which may perhaps have 
 proceeded from fuperftition; for we were informed 
 by Omai, that when they obferved us offering pre- 
 fents to them, they requefted fomething for their Ea- 
 too a* They afterwards laid hands on a rope, but would 
 not venture on board, telling Omai, that their coun* 
 trymen on fhore had fuggefted to them this caution; 
 and had likewife directed them to inquire whence our 
 fhip came, and to procure information of the name of 
 the Captain. Upon our inquiring the name of the 
 ifland, they told us it was Mangya or Mangcea^ to 
 which they fometimes added nooe, naiy naiwa* 
 
 The features of one of them were agreeable, and his 
 difpofition, to all appearance was no lefs fo; for he 
 exhibited fome droll gefticulations, which indicated 
 humour and good nature. He alio made others of a 
 ferious kind, and repeated fome words with an air of 
 devotion, before he would venture to take hold of the 
 rope at the ftern of the fhip. 
 
 As foon as the fhips were in a proper flation, Cap- 
 tain Cook fent out two boats to endeavour t-g find a 
 convenient place for landing. In one of them he went 
 himfelf, and had no fooner put off* from the fhip than 
 the two men in the canoe paddled towards his boat ; 
 and when they were come along-fide, a native, without 
 hefitation, flept into her. Omai, who was with the 
 Captain, was defired to inquire of the iflander where 
 we could land; upon which he directed us to two 
 places. But we foon obferved with regret, that the 
 attempt at either place was impradticahle, on ac- 
 count of the furf, unlefs at the rifque of having our 
 boats deftroyed. Nor were we more fuccefsful in our 
 
 fearch 
 
?ACXPXC OCEAK. 
 
 47 
 
 fearch for anchorage, as we could find no bottom till 
 within a cable's length of the breakers, where we met 
 with from forty to twenty fathoms deep, over Iharp 
 rocks of coral. 
 
 While we thus reconnoitered the fhore of Mangeea, 
 the natives thronged down upon the reef, all armed. 
 The native, who ftill remained in the boat with Cap- 
 tain Cook, thinking, perhaps, that this warlike ap- 
 pearance deterred us from landing, commanded them 
 to retire. As many of them complied, we imagined 
 that he was a pcrfon of fome confequence : we found 
 his name was NTourooa, and that he was brother to the 
 king of the ifland. Several of them inftigated by cu- 
 riofity, fwam from the ftiore to the boats, and came 
 on board without referve. We even found fome diffi» 
 eulty in keeping them out, and could fcarce prevent 
 their pilfering whatever they coulJ lay their hands on. 
 At length, when they obferved us returning to the 
 fhips, they all left us except Mourooa, who, though not 
 without manifeft indications of fear, accompanied the 
 Commodore on board the Refolution. The cattle and 
 other now objects that he faw there, did not ftrike him 
 with much furprife; his mind, perhaps, being too 
 much occupied about his own fafety, to allow him to 
 attend to other things. He feemed very uneafy, ani 
 gave us but little new iiitelfigence ; and therefore, aftei* 
 he had continued a fliort time on board, Captain Cook 
 ordered a boat to carry him towards the land. In his 
 way out of the cabin, happening to ftumble over one 
 of the goats, he flopped, looked at the animal, and 
 afked Omai what bird it was; but not receiving an 
 immediate anfwer from him, he put the fame queftioa 
 to fome of the people who were upon deck. The 
 boat having conveyed him near the furf, he leaped into 
 the water and fwam afhore. His countrymen, eager 
 to learn from him what he had feen, flocked round him 
 as foon as he landed; in which fituation they remained 
 when we loft fight of them. We hoifted in the boat 
 as foon as flie returned, and made fail to the north- 
 ward. Thus were we obliged to leave this fine ifland 
 
 • -un 
 
 R^ .d 
 
%l 
 
 W !■ 
 
 m 
 
 /^% A V O Y A Ci E TO THE 
 
 uiivifitccl, which feemed .capable of fupplyiug all oar 
 neceifities. It is fituate in the longitude of 201** 53 
 eaJft, and in the latitude ot 21" 57' I'ourh. 
 
 Thofe parts of the coaft of Mangeea which fell un- 
 tonder our obfervation, are guarded by a reef of coral 
 rock, againll which a heavy I'urf is continually breaking. 
 The iiland is alwut five leagues in circumference, and 
 though of a moderate and pretty etiual height, may be 
 feen in clear weather at the dillance of ten leagues. In 
 the interior parts, it rifes into I'mall hills, whence 
 there is an eafy defcent to the (liore, which in the 
 fouth-weft part is llecp, though not very high, and has 
 feveral excavations made by the dafliing of the waves 
 againft a brown iili laud ilone of which it confills. 
 Thefliore, on the north-well part terminates in a fandy 
 beach, beyond which the land is broken into fmall 
 chafms, and has a broad border of trees which refein-* 
 ble tall willows. 
 
 The natives appearing to l>e both numerous and 
 well fed, it Is highly probable, that fuch articles of 
 provifion, as the iiland produces, are found in great 
 abundance. Our friend Mourooa informed us. tliat 
 they had no hogs nor dogs, though they had lie. ul of 
 both thefe animals; but tliat thev had plantains, taro, 
 and bread-fruit. The only birds we obferved, were 
 ibme terns, noddies, white egg-birds, and one while 
 heron. 
 
 The language of the Mangeeans is a dialecl of that 
 of Otaheite; but their pronounciation is mor© guttu- 
 ral. They referable the inhabitants of Otalieite, ar.d 
 the Marquefas in the beauty of their perfons ; and 
 their general difpofitidn alfo feems to correfpond with 
 that of the firft-mentioned people ; for th«y are not 
 only lively and chearful, but are acquainted with all 
 the indecent gefticulations pra^tifed by the OtaUeitans 
 in their dances. We had likewife reafon to luppofe, 
 that they have fnnilar methods of living : for, though 
 we had not an opportunity of feeing many of their 
 habitations, we, obferved one houfe near the Jieach, 
 c.uich, initsoigde pfcoiiftru<$iion, differed little. from 
 
 tholc 
 
rxciFicocEAif* ' 49 
 
 thofe of Otaheite. It appeared to be (even or eigh( 
 feet high, and about thirtv in length, with an open 
 end which reprefented an eflipfe, or oval, tranfverfely 
 divided. It was pleafantly fituated in a grove. 
 
 I'hefe pf^ople falute Grangers by joining nofes and 
 taking the hand of the perfon whom thry accoft* 
 which they rub vrxth fome force upon their mouth and > 
 nofe. It is worthy of remark, that the inhabitants of 
 the Palaos, New Philippine, or rather Caroline Iflands^ 
 though at the diftai?ct of near 1500 leagues from Maa«» 
 geea, have a fimilar method of falutation. 
 
 We quitted Mangeea in the afternoon of the 30th 
 of March, and proceeding on a northerly courfe, we 
 again difcovered land, on the 31ft, at the diftance of 
 nine or ten leagues. The next morning we were 
 abreaft of its north end, within four leagues of it. 
 It now appeared to us, to be an ifland nearly of the 
 fame extent with that which we had juft left. Ano- 
 ther ifland, much fmaller, was alfo defcried riglit :i'-hpad» 
 Though we could foon have reached this, we preferred 
 the larger one, as being moll likely to furnifh food for 
 the cattle. We therefore made fail to it; but there 
 being little wind, and that unfavourable, we were ftill 
 about two leagues to leeward at eight o^clock the f'i©* 
 ceeding morning. The Commodore, foon after, dif?* 
 patched three arn^ed boats, under the command of Mr* 
 Gore, his Firft Lieutenant, in fearch of a landing 
 place and anchoring ground. Meanwhile we plied 
 up under the iiland with the ihips. As our boats were 
 putting ofF, we faw feverai canoes coming from the 
 fliore, which repaired firft to the Difcovery, a3 that fhip 
 was the neareft. Not long after, three of thefe canoes, 
 each conducted by one man, came along (Ide of the Re- 
 folution. 
 
 We beftowed on our vifitors fome knives, beads, and 
 other trifles; and they gave us fome cocoa nuts, in 
 confequence of our having aiked for them; but they 
 did not part with them by way of exchange, as they 
 feemed to have no idea of barter or traffic. One of 
 them, after a little perfuafion^ came on board; and the 
 
 D othei^ 
 
 ,H 
 
 I 
 
 : ■ M 
 
 Wl"!! 
 
so 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 \Mi f 
 
 m 
 
 other two followed his example. 1 hey appealed to 
 be perfedlly at their eafe, and free from all apprehen- 
 £on. After cheir d^'parture, a man arrived in another 
 canoe, bringing a bunch of plantains as a prefent to 
 Captain Cook, who gave him in return a piece of red 
 cloth and an axe. . - 
 
 We were afterwards informed by Omai, that this 
 prefent had been fent from the king of the ifland. 
 r>oon after, a double canoe, containing twelve of the 
 iilanders, came towards us. On approach iiig the fliip 
 . they recited fome words in concert, by way of chorus, 
 one of them firft giving the word before each repeti- 
 tion. Having finifhed this folemn chanty they came 
 along fide and afked for the chief. As foon as Cap- 
 tain Cook had made his appearance, a pig and fome 
 cocoa nuts were conveyed into the fhip; and the 
 Captain was alfo prefented with a piece of matting 
 by the principal perfon in the canoe, when he and his 
 companions liad got on board. 
 
 - Thefe new vifitors were introduced into the cabin, 
 and condudled to other parts of the (hip. Though 
 fome objedls feemed to furprife them, nothing could 
 fix their attention. They were afraid to venture near 
 the cows and horfes, of whofe nature they could form 
 no conception. As for the ftieep and goats, they gave 
 us to underftand they knew them to be birds. 
 
 Thoujrh the Commodore bellowed on his new friend 
 what he fuppofed the moft acceptable prefent, yet he 
 feemed Ibmewhat dilappointed. The Captain was after - 
 wards informed that he eagerly wiflied to procure a 
 diog, of which kind of animals this ifland was dellitute, 
 though the natives knew that the race exilled in other 
 iflands of the Pacific Ocean. Captain Clerke had re- 
 ; ceived a fimilar preleiit with the fame view from ano- 
 ther man, who was equally dilappointed in his expec- 
 tations. 
 
 The iflanders, whom we had feen in thofe canoe^, 
 
 ' were in general of the middle ftature, and not unlike 
 
 the Mangeeans. Their hair either flowed loofely over 
 
 .their ihoulders, or was tied on the crown of the head; 
 
 2 ' i - and 
 
PACIFIC OCEAW. 
 
 51 
 
 aied to 
 )rehen- 
 inother 
 :fent to 
 i of red 
 
 tat this 
 
 ifland. 
 
 of the 
 
 he fliip 
 
 :honis, 
 
 repeti- 
 
 ' came 
 
 s Cap- 
 
 i fome 
 
 nd the 
 
 iiatting 
 
 uid his 
 
 cahln, 
 "hough 
 ; could 
 re near 
 d form 
 ;y gave 
 
 and though in fome it was frizzed, yet that, as well 
 as the ftraight fort, was long. Some of the young 
 men were handfome. Like the inhabitants of Mau- 
 geea, they wore girdles of glazed cloth, or fine mat- 
 ting, the ends of which w^ere brought between their 
 tliighs. Their ears were bored, and they wore about 
 their necks, by way of ornament, a fort of broad grafs, 
 llained with red, and ftrung with berries of the night 
 fliad'i. Many of them were curioufly marked or ta^ 
 toocd from the middle downwards, particularly upon 
 their legs, which made them appear as if they wore 
 boots. I'heir beards were long, and they Iwd a kind 
 of fandals on their feet. They were frank and chear- 
 ful in their deportment, and very friendly and good 
 natured. ^' * 
 
 Lieutenant Gore returned from his excurfion in the 
 afternoon, and informed Captain Cook, that he had 
 examined the weft fide of the ifland without being 
 able to find a place where the fliip'j could ride in fafety, 
 or a boat could land, the fhore being bounded by a 
 lleep coral rock, againft xvhich a continual furf brokft 
 with extraordinary violerice. But as the inhabitants 
 feemed extremely friendly, and as defirous of ©ur 
 landing as we ourfelves were, Mr. Gore was of opi- 
 nion, that they might be prevailed upon to bring off 
 to the heats beyond the furf, fuch articles as we were 
 moft in need of. As we had little or no wind, the 
 delay of a day or two was of fmall confideration ; and 
 therefore the Commodore refolved to try the experi- 
 ment next morning, 
 
 Tlie fame morning, "which was the 3d of April, 
 Captain Cook detached Mr. Gore with three boats, 
 to make trial of the experiment which that officer 
 had propofed. Two of the natives who had been on 
 board accompanied him, and Omai ferved as an in- 
 terpreter. The fliips being a full league from the 
 ifland when the boats put olF, and the wind being in- 
 confiderable, it was twelve o'clock before the ihip 
 could work up to it. We then perceived our three 
 boats juft without the i\irf, and an aniazine nuinber 
 
 D 2 of 
 
5* 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 of the iflanders on the fhore abreaft of them. Con- 
 cluding from this, that Lieutenant Gore, and others of 
 our people had landed, we were impatient to know 
 the event. With a view of obferving their motions, 
 and being ready to afford them fuch afliftance as they 
 might occafionally require, the Commodore kept as 
 near the fhore as was confiflent with prudence. Some 
 of the natives now and then brought a few cocoa nuts 
 to the fhips, and exchanged them for" whatever was 
 offered them, Thefe occafional vifits diminifhed the 
 Captain's folicitude about cur people who had landed* 
 At length, towards the evening, we had the fatisfac- 
 tion of feeing the boats return. When our people 
 got on board, we found that Mr. Gore, Mr. Anderlbn, 
 Mr. Burney, and Omai, were the only perfons who 
 had landed. The occurrences of the day were now 
 fully reported to the Commodore by Mr. Gore. — 
 Mr. Anderfon*s account of their tranfa<5lions, which 
 was very circumftantial, and included fome obferva- 
 tions on the ifland and its inhabitants, was to the fol- 
 lowing purport: iv 
 
 They rowed towards a fandy beach, where a great 
 number of the natives had afTembled, and came to ah 
 anchor at the diflance of an hundred yards from the 
 reef. Several of the iflanders fwam off, bringing cocoa 
 nuts with them; and Omal gave them to imderftand 
 that our people were defirous of landmg. Soon after, 
 two canoes came off ; aud to infpire the natives with 
 a greater confidence, Mr. Gore and his companions 
 reiolv^d to go unarmed. Mr. AnJerfon and Lieute- 
 nant Burney went in one canoe, a little before the 
 other; and their conductors watching with great at- 
 tention the motions of the furf, landed them fafely 
 on the reef. A native took hold of each of them, with 
 a view of fupporting them in walking over the rugged 
 rocks to the beach, where feveral others holding in 
 their hands the green boughs, met them, and laluted 
 them by the junction of nofes. They were condufted 
 from the beach amidfl a vaft multitude of people, 
 who flocked around them with the moil eager curio- 
 
PACIFIC OCEAJt* 
 
 5S 
 
 fity; and being led up an avenue of cocoa palms, foon 
 came to a number of men, arranged ici two rows, and 
 armed with clubs. Proceeding onward among thefe, 
 they found a perfon who appeared to be a chief, fit- 
 ting crofs legged on the ground, and cooling himfelf 
 with a kind of triangular fan, made from the leaf of 
 the cocoa palm, with a polifhed handle of black wood. 
 He wore in his ears large bunches of beautiful feathers 
 of a red colour, but had no other mark to diftinguifh 
 him from the reft of the people. Our two coujitry- 
 men ha\ ing faluted him as he fat, marclied on. am^^^g 
 the men armed with clubs, nnd came to a fecond chief, 
 adorned like the former, and occupied like him, ill. 
 fanning himfelf. He was remarkable for his lize and. 
 corpulence, though he did not appear to be above thirty 
 years of age. They were condudted in. the fame man- 
 ner to a third chief, who feemed older than the two 
 former; he, alfo, ^ was fitting, and was ornamented 
 with red feathers. After they had faluted him as they 
 had done the others, he defired them, both to fit down; 
 which they willingly confented to, being greatly fa- 
 tigued with walking, and with the extreme heat they 
 felt amidft the furrounding multitude. 
 
 The people being ordered to feparate-, Meflis. j^- 
 derfon and Burnfey faw, at a fmall diftance, about 
 twenty beautiful young women, adorned like the 
 chiefs with red feathers, engaged in a dance, which 
 they performed to a flow and folemn air, fung by 
 tbem all. Our two gentlemen rofe up, and walked 
 forward to fee thefe dancers, who, without paying 
 them the fmalleft attention, ftill continued their 
 dance. They femed to be diredted by a man, who, 
 in the capacity of a prompter, mentioned the feveral 
 motions they were to niake. They never changed the 
 fpot as Europeans do in dancing ; and though their 
 feet were not entirely at reft, this exercife confifted 
 more in moving their fingers very nimbly, holding 
 their hands at the fame time in a prone pofition near 
 the face, and occafionally clapping them together. 
 
 D 3 Their 
 
 km 
 
54 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Their dancing and finging were performed in the 
 cxa6^eft concert. -? tnf 
 
 Before thefe beauteous females had fini/hed their 
 <!ance, our two countrymen heard a noife, as if fomc 
 liorfes li id been galloping towards them ; and, on turn- 
 ing their eyes afide, they faw the people armed with 
 clubs, who had been defired to entertain them, as they 
 fuppofed, with an exhibition of their mode of fighting; 
 which they now did, one party purfuing another who 
 tan away. 
 
 I-L^ntenant Burney and Mr. Anderfon began now to 
 look about for Mr. Gnre and Omai, wliom they at 
 length found coming up, as much incommoded by the 
 crowds of people as themfelves had been, and intro- 
 duced in the fame manner to the three chiefs. Each 
 of thefe expelling a prefent, Mr. Gore gave them fuch 
 tilings as he had brought with him for that purpofe; 
 after which he informed the chiefs of his views in com- 
 ing on ihore, but was defired to wait till the next day 
 before he fhould have what was wanted. I'hey now 
 feemed to endeavour to feparate our gentlemen from 
 each other, every one of whom had his refpe6tive cir- 
 cle to furround, and gaze at him. Mr. Anderfon was, 
 at ;4}ne time, upwards of an hour apart from his friends ; 
 arid when he told the chief, who was near him, that he 
 wifhed to fpeak to Omai, his requefl was peremptorily 
 Tefufed. At the fame time he found that the peop) 
 pilfered feveral trifling things which were in his poc- 
 icet ; and on his complaining of this treatment to the 
 chief, he juftified their behaviour. From thefe circum- 
 ilances, Mr. Anderfon began to apprehend that they 
 defigned to detain our party among them. 
 
 Mr. Burney going to the place where Mr. Anderfon 
 i was, the latter informed him of his fufpicions ; and to 
 ' try whether they were well founded or not, they both 
 /attempted to get to the beach: but they were foon 
 Cilopped by fome of the natives, who faid they muik re- 
 turn to the place which they had left. On their com- 
 *" Ing up, they found Omai under the fame apprehenfions ; 
 but He had, as he imagined, aii additional motive of 
 
 terror ; 
 
PACIFIC O C E A N. ^ jj 
 
 terror ; for, having obferved that they had dug a hole 
 in the ground for an oven, which they were now heat- 
 ing, he could aiTign no other reafon for it, than that 
 they intended to roaft and devour our party ; he even 
 went fo far as to afk them whether that was their in- 
 tention, at which they were much furpriied, afking, 
 in return, whether that cuftom prevailed among us. 
 
 Thus were Mr. Anderfon and the others detained the 
 greateft part of the day, being fometimes Separated, 
 and fometimes together; but continually in a croud, 
 who frequently defired them to uncover parts of their 
 fkin, the fight of which flruck the iflanders with ad- 
 miration. They at tlie fame time rifled the pockets of 
 our countrj'^men ; and one of them fnatched from Mr. 
 Gore a bayonet, w^hlch hung by his fide. This being 
 reprefented to one of the chiefs, he pretended tafend a 
 perfon in fearch of it, but probably countenanced the 
 theft ; for Omai, foon after, had a dagger Tftolen from*, 
 his fide in the fame manner. They now brought fome 
 green boughs, as emblems of friendfhip, and flicking 
 the ends of them in the ground, defired that onr party 
 would hold them as they fat, giving them to underftano, 
 tliat they muft flay and eat with them. The fight of 
 a pig lying near the oven which they had prepared ajid 
 heated, removed Omai's apprehenfions of being put into 
 it himfelf, and made him think that it might be intended 
 for the repaft of him and his three friends. The chief 
 alfo fent fome of his people to provide food for the 
 cattle, and they returned with a few plantain-trees, 
 which they conveyed to the boats. In the mean time, 
 MelFrs. Burney and Anderfon made a fecond attempt 
 to get to the beach ; but, on their arrival, they found 
 themfelves watched by people who feemed to have been 
 ftationed there for that purpofe ; for, when Mr. An- 
 derfon endeavoured to wade in upon the reef, one of 
 them dragged him back by his clothes. They alfo in- 
 fifled upon his throwing down fome pieces of coral that 
 he had picked up, and, on his refufal to comply, took 
 them from him by force. Nor would they fufter him 
 to retain fome fmall plants which he had gathered. 
 
 D 4 They 
 
 wl 
 
 } ; 
 
 ^■! 
 
56 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Tlicy lifcewife took a fan from Mr. Burney, which, on 
 his coming afhore, he had received as a prefent. Find- 
 ing that obedience to their will was the only method 
 of procuring bcttci ticatment, the gentlemen returned 
 to the place they had quitted ; and the natives now 
 promifed, that, after they had partaken of a repail 
 which had been prepared tor them, they fhould be fur- 
 nifhed with a canoe to carry them off to their boats. 
 Accordingly, the fecond chief to whom they had been 
 prefented, havifkg feated himfelf on a low ftool, and 
 directed the multitude to form a large ring, made them 
 lit down by him. A number of cocoa nuts were now 
 brought, with a quantity of baked plantains, and a 
 piece of the pig that had been drefled, was placed be- 
 fore each of them. Their fatigue, however, had taken 
 away their appetites ; but they eat a little to pleafe 
 their entertainers* It being now near fun-fet, the 
 iflanders feat dowii to the beach the remainder of the 
 provifions that had been drefled, to be carried to the 
 fhips. Our gentlemen found a canoe prepared to put 
 them off to their boats, which the natives did with 
 great caution ; but as they were pufliing the canoe into 
 the furf, one of them fnatched a bag out of her, which 
 contained a pocket piflol belonging to Mr. Anderfon, 
 who calling out to the thief with marks of the higheft 
 difpleafure, he fwam back to the canoe with the bag. 
 The iflanders then put them on board the boats, with 
 the cocoa nuts, plantains, and other provifions, and 
 they immediately rowed back to tlie (hips. 
 
 The retrained fituationof thefe gentlemen gave them 
 very little opportunity of obferving the country : for 
 they were feldom a hundred yards from the place where 
 they had been introduced to the chiefs, and confe* 
 quently were confined to the furrounding objedls. 
 The chiefs, and others perfons of rank, had two little 
 balls, with a common bafe, made of bone, which they 
 hung round their necks with fmall cord. Red feathers 
 are here confidered as a particular mark of diftind^ion ; 
 for none but the chiefs, and the young women who 
 da'r«:ed, alTumed theait ^ , . 
 
 ^ : V, Many 
 
PA err re oceak*'« Jt* 
 
 Many of the natives were armed with fpears and 
 clubs, the latter of which were generally about fix feet 
 long, made of a hard black wood, neatly poli(hed. 
 The fpears were formed of the fame wood, fimply 
 pointed, and were in general twelve feet long ; but fome 
 were fo fhort as to feem intended for darts. 
 
 They preierved their canoes from the fun under the 
 fliade of various trees. Our gentlemen faW eight or 
 ten of them, all double ones ; that is, two fingle ones 
 faftened together by rafters lafhed acrofs. They were 
 about four feet deep, and in length about twenty feet, 
 -•id the fides were rounded with a plank raifed upon 
 ;. Two of thefe canoes werecurioufly ftained all. 
 o^c with black, in innumerable fmall figures, as tri- 
 angles, fquares, &c. and were far fuperior to any thing^ 
 of the kind- Mr. Anderfon had ever feen at any other 
 inland in the South-Sea. The paddles were almoft el- 
 liptical, and about four feet long. 
 
 The foil, towards the fea, is nothing more than a* 
 bank of coral, generally fteep and rugged, which^, 
 though it has probably been for many centuries expofed 
 to the weather, has fuflfered no- farther change than, 
 becoming black on its furface^ 
 
 It has been already mentioned, that Omai was fent 
 upon this expedition as Mr. Gore's interpreter ; which, 
 perhaps, wa» not. the only fervice he performed this^ 
 day. He was queftioned by the natives concerning us,, 
 our country, our fhips, and arms ; in anfwer to which, 
 he told themj among many other particulars, that ourt 
 country had^fliips as large as their ifland, on board of 
 which were implements of war (defcribing our guns) 
 of fuch dimenfibns, as to contain feveral people within 
 them ; one of which could demolWh the ifland' at one- 
 ftiot. As for the guns in our two fhips, he acknow- 
 ledged they were but fmall in comparifon with the for- 
 mer; yet even with thefe, he- faid, we could with great*- 
 eafe, at a confiderable difiance, deflroy the ifland, ardl 
 every foul in it. On their inquiring by what means 
 this could be done, Omai produced fome cartridges. 
 from his pocket, and having fubmitted to infpedlion 
 
 DS the. 
 
 ^'•l 
 
 irl 
 
 !„:a 
 
^8 AVOYAOE TO THl 
 
 Xhe b^ll^, and the gunpowder by which they were to be 
 ^t in JDotion,, he dilpofed the latter upon the ground, 
 ^nd> . by means of a piece of lighted wood, fet it on 
 ^re. The fudden bJaft, the mingled flame and fmoke, 
 .that inftantaneoufly fucceeded, filled the natives with 
 jiuch aftonifhment, that they no longer doubted the 
 •formidable power of our weapons. Had it not been 
 for the terrible ideas they entertained of the guns of 
 our Aiips, from this fpecimen of their mode or opera- 
 ition, it was imagined that they would have detained 
 the gentlemen the whole night ; for Omai aiTured them, 
 that, if he and his friends did not return on board the 
 fame day, they might expedl that the Commodore 
 would fire upon the ifland. 
 
 The natives of ihls iiland call it by the name of Wa- 
 teeoo. It is fituated in the longitude of 201*^ 45 eaft, 
 and in the latitude of 20** i' fouth, and is about fix 
 leagues in circuit. It is a beautiful fpot, with a fur- 
 face covered with verdure, and compofed of hiJls and 
 plains. The foil, in fome parts, is light and fandy : 
 but, farther up the country, we faw from the fliip, 
 by the affiftance of our gla&s, a reddiC.i caft on the 
 rifing grounds. There the iflanders bviild their houfes, 
 for we could perceive feveral of them, which were 
 long and fpacious. Its produce is nearly the fame with 
 that of Mangeea Nooe Nainaiwa, the ifland we had 
 laft quitted. 
 
 If we may depend on Omai's report of what he 
 learned from his three countrymen in the courfe of their 
 converfation, the manners of the people of Wateeoo, 
 their general habits of life, and their method of treat- 
 ing ftrangers, greatly refemble thofe that prevail at 
 Otaheite, and its neighbcJuring iflands. There is alfo 
 a great fimilarity between their religious opinions and 
 ceremonies. From every circumitaiice, indeed, it 
 may be confidered as indubitable, that the inhabitants 
 of Wateeoo derive their defcent from the fame flock, 
 which has fo remarkably diflTufed itfelf over the im- 
 menfe extent of the Southern Ocean. 
 
 Calms and light airs haying alternately prevailed all 
 
 the 
 
PACIFIC OCEAV. 59 
 
 the night of the 3d of April, before day-break the 
 oafterly fwell had carried the fhips fome diftance from 
 Wateeoo ; but having bailed of procuring, at that places 
 fome effectual fupply, there appeared no reafon for our 
 continuing there any longer ; we therefore willingly 
 quitted it, and fleered for the iiland which we liad dit* 
 covered three days before. 
 
 We got up with it about ten o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, when Captain Cook immediately difpatched Mr. 
 Gore with two boats, to fee if he could land, and get 
 fubf llence for our cattle. Though a reef furi'ounded 
 the lard here, as at Wateeoo, and a confiderable furf 
 broke againft the rocks, our boats no fooner reached 
 the weft-fide of the ifland, but they ventured in, and 
 Mr. Gore and his attendants arrived fafe on ihore. 
 Captain Cook feeing they had ib far fucceeded, fent a 
 fmall boat to know if farther afliflance was required. 
 She wailed to take in a lading of the produce of the 
 ifland, and did not return till three o'clock in £he after- 
 noon : being cleared, fhe was fent again for another 
 cargo; tlie jolly boat was alfo difpatched upon the 
 fame bufmefs, with orders for Mr. Gore to return 
 with the boats before night, which orders were punc- 
 tually obferved. 
 
 , The fupply obtained here was about two hundred 
 cocoa nuts for ourfelves, and for our cattle fome grafs, 
 and a quantity of the leaves and branches ^f young 
 cocoa ti^es, and the pandanus. 
 
 . This ifland lies about three or four leagues from 
 Wateeoo, the inhabitants of which call it Otakootuia. 
 It is in the latitude of 19° 15' fouth, and the longitude 
 of ?oi° 37' eaft, and is fuppofed not to exceed three 
 miles in circuit. 
 
 This ifland is entirely deftitute of water. Cocoa" 
 palms were the only common trees found there, of 
 which there were Several clufters, and great quantities 
 of the wharra, or pandcnus. 
 
 At this time there were no fixed inhabitants upon 
 the ifland ; but we difco'vered a few empty huts, which 
 convinced us of its being, at leaft, occafionally Tifited, 
 
 D 6 Monu-^ 
 
 t ' 
 
 ¥ i ii 
 
 * i: M 
 
m 
 
 60 A VOVAG£ TO THE 
 
 Monuments, confiding of feveral large ftones, were 
 alio eredled under the {hade of Ibme trees: there were 
 alfo fome fmalier ones, with which feveral places were 
 inclofed, where we fappofed their dead had been bu • 
 ried. We found in one place a great many cockle 
 (hells, of a particular fort, finely grooved, and larger 
 than the fift; from which it was conjedlured, that 
 the iiland had been vifited by perfons who fometimes 
 feed on fhell-fifli, Mr. Gore left fome nails and a 
 hatchet in one of the huts, for the ufe of ihofe who 
 might vifit the ifland in future. 
 
 The boats bein^ hoifled in, we made fail again to the 
 northward, refolvmg to try our fortune at Hervey's 
 Ifland, which was difcovered by Captain Cook in 1773, 
 during his laft voyage. We got fight of it about day- 
 break in the morning of the 6th, at the diilance of 
 about three leagues. We approached it about eight 
 o^cIock, and obferved feveral canoes coming from the 
 fhore towards the {hips. 
 
 Advancing {till towards the ifland, fix or feven dou- 
 ble canoes immediately came near us, with from three 
 to fix men in each of them. At the diftance of about 
 a {tone's throw from the {hip they flopped, and it was 
 with difficulty that Omai prevailed on them to come 
 along-fide ; but they could not be induced to trufl them- 
 felves on board. Indeed, their diforderly behaviour 
 did not indicate a difpofition to trufl us, or to treat us 
 well. They attempted to {leal fome oars out of the 
 Difcovery's boat, and {Iruck a man for endeavouring to 
 prevent them. They alfo cut away a net containing 
 meat, which hung over the flern of that {hip, and at 
 fijil would not reftore it, though they afterwards per- 
 mitted us to purchafe it from them. Thofe who were 
 about the Refolution, behaved equally diforderly and 
 daring ; for, with a fort of hooks made of a long flick, 
 they openly endeavoured to rob us of feveral things, and 
 a6lually got a frock belonging to one of our people. 
 It appeared that they had a knowledge of bartering, 
 for they exchanged fome fifh for fome of our fmall 
 nails, of which they were exjtravagantly %id, and 
 
 called 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK. 
 
 61 
 
 called them goore. Pieces of paper, or any other tri- 
 fling article that was thrown to them, they caught 
 with the greateft avidity; and if what was thrown 
 fell into the fea, they immediately plunge^ in to fwim 
 after it. {* 
 
 Though the diftance between Hervey's Ifland and 
 Wateeoo is not very great, the inhabitants differ greatly 
 from each other, both in perfon and difpofition. The 
 colour of the natives of Hervey's Ifland is of a deeper 
 cafl, and feveral of them had a fierce favage afpe^y 
 like the natives of New-Zealand, though fome were 
 fairer. Their hair was long and black, either hanging 
 loofe about their flioulders, or tied in a bunch on the 
 top of the head. Their clothing was a narrow piece 
 ©f mat, bound feveral times rpund the lower part of 
 the body, and pafling between the thighs. 
 
 Their food, confifted of cocoa-nuts, fifh, and tur- 
 tle ; being deflitute of dogs and hogs, and the ifland 
 not producing bread-fruit or plantains. Their canoes 
 (near thirty of which appeared one time in fight) are 
 tolerably large, and well built, and bear fome refem- 
 blance to thofe of Wateeoo. 
 
 We drew near the north- weft part of the ifland 
 about one o'clock. This feemed to be the only part 
 where we could expe6t to find anchorage, or a landing 
 place for our boats. Captain Cook immediately dif- 
 patched Lieutenant King, with two armed boats, to 
 found and reconnoitre the coaft. 
 
 The boats returned at three o'clock, and Mr. King 
 informed Captain Cook, that he could find no ancho- 
 rage for the fhips ; and that the boats could advance 
 no farther than the outer edge of the reef, which was 
 "almoft a quarter of a mile from the dry land ; that ^ 
 number of the natives came upon the reef, armed with 
 clubs and long pikes, meaning, as he fuppofed, to op- 
 pofe his landing, though, at the fame time, they threw 
 cocoa nuts to our people, and requelled them to come 
 on fhore ; and, notwithftanding this feeming friendly 
 treatment, the Avomen were very a6live ia bringhig 
 down a freili fupply of darts and fpears. 
 
 CaptaiA 
 
■I 
 
 62 AVOYACETOTHE 
 
 Captain Cook confidered that, as we could not bring 
 the (liips to anchor, the attempt to procure graf; here 
 would be attended with dehiy and danger. Being thus 
 difappointed in all the iflands after our leaving New 
 Zealand, and having, from variety of circumitances, 
 been una/oidably retarded in our progrefs, it was in 
 vain to think of doing any thing this year in the high 
 latitudes of the iiorthti n hemifphere, from which we 
 were then fo far diftant, th ligh it was then the lieafon 
 for our Ulcerations there. 7 hus lunated, it was necef- 
 fary to purfue fucii neaOires as aj pea red befl calculated 
 to preferve /ur cattle, and lave the flores and provi- 
 fions of thelhij'v; the better to enable us to profecute 
 our northern dilcovtrir>, which could not now com- 
 mence till a year later than was intended. 
 
 The Captain, therefore, determined to bear away 
 for the Frieiully Iflands, where he knew he could be 
 well fuppVicd with every thing he wanted; and, it 
 being neceilUry to rnn night and day, he ordered Cap- 
 tain Clei ke to keep a league a-head of the Reiolution, 
 becauft iiis fliip could bell claw off the land which we 
 might poflibly fall in with in our paffage. 
 
 In Older to fave our water. Captain Cook ordered 
 the ftill to be kept at work a whole day ; during which 
 time we procured about fifteen gallons of frefh water. 
 
 Light breezes continued till Thurfday the loth, 
 when the wind blew fome hours frefh from the north 
 and north-njorth-weft. in the afternoon we had fome 
 very heavy rain, attended with thunder fqualls. We 
 colle6led as much raip water as filled five of our pun- 
 cheons. , When thefe fqualls had blown over, the wind 
 was very unfettled, both in ftrength and pofition, till 
 the next day at noon, when it fixed at north-weft and 
 north-north- weft, arid hlew a frefli breeze. 
 
 We were thus perfecuted with the wind in our teeth, 
 and had the additional mortification to find thofe very 
 winds here which we had reafon to expedl farther fouth. 
 At day break, however, on the 13th, we perceived 
 Palmerfton's Ifland, at the diftance of about five 
 leagues, but did not jet up with it till the ntxt morn- 
 ing 
 
 be 
 
' » A C I F IC OC E AN. ^3 
 
 Ing at eight. Captain Cook then difpatched threo 
 boats from the Refolution and one from the Difcovery, 
 with a proper officer in each, to learch for a convenient 
 landing place ; we being now under an abiblute necef- 
 fity ot procuring here Ibme provender for our cattle, 
 or we mull certainly have loft tliem. 
 
 What is called Palmerfton*s Iflandconfifts of a group 
 of fmall iflets, about nine or ten in number, connected 
 together by a reef of coral rocks, and lying in circular 
 direction. The boats firft examined the mod fouth- 
 eafterly iflet, and, not fucceeding there, ran down to 
 the fecond, where they immediately landed. Captain 
 Cook then bore down with the mips, till we were 
 a-breaft of the place, where we kept Handing ofF and 
 on, there being no bottom to be found to anchor upon ; 
 this, however, was of no material confequence, as there 
 were no human beings upon the ifland except the par- 
 ty who had landed from our boats. 
 
 At one o'clock one of the boats returned, laden with 
 fcurvy grafs and young cocoa trees, which was, at this 
 time, a moll excellent repaft for our animals on board. 
 A meflage was alfo brought from Mr. Gore, who com- 
 manded the party upon this expedition, acquainting 
 us, that the ifland abounded with fuch produce, and 
 alfo with the wharra tree and cocoa nuts. In confe- 
 quence of tliis information, Captain Cook determined 
 to get a fufficient fupply of thefe articles before he 
 quitted this ftation, and accordingly went aftiore in a 
 fmall beat, accompanied by the Captain of the Difco- 
 very. The ifland does not exceed a mile in circum- 
 ference, and is not elevated above three feet beyond 
 the level of the fea. It confifted almoft entirely of a 
 coral far 1, with a fmall mixture of blackifti mould, 
 which appeared to be produced from rotten vegetables. 
 
 At one part of the reef, which bounds the lake 
 within, almoft even with the furface, there was a large 
 bed of coral, which afforded a mofl enchanting prof- 
 pet!^. Its bafe, which was fixed to the fhore, extended 
 fo far that it could not be feen, fo that it appeared to 
 be fufpended in tbe water. Even this delightful fcene 
 
 was 
 
64 AVOYACETO'THE 
 
 was greatly improved by the multitude of fifhes that 
 gently glided along, feemingly with the moft per^d^ 
 lecurity. Their colours were the moft beautiful that 
 can be imagined ; blue, yellow, black, red, &:c. far 
 excelling any thing that can be produced by art. The 
 richnefs of this fubmarine grotto was greatly increafed 
 by their various forms ; and the whole could not polii- 
 bly be furveyed without a pleafmg tranfport, aLCom- 
 panied, at the fame time, with regret, that a work fo 
 aftonifliingly elegant fhould be concealed in a place fo 
 feldom explored by the human eye. 
 
 The 15th, like the preceding day, was fpent in col- 
 ledking fubliftence for the cattle, condfting principally 
 of tender branches of the wharra tree, palm-cabbage 
 and young cocoa-nut trees. A fufficient fupply of 
 thefe having been procured by fun fet. Captain Cook 
 ordered all the people on board ; but, having very lit- 
 tle wind, he determined to employ the next day in 
 endeavouring, from the next iiland to leeward, to get 
 fome cocoa nuts for our people : for this purpofe, we 
 kept ftanding oft' and on all night, and about nine 
 o'clock in the morning we went to the weft fide of the 
 iflands, and landed from our boats with little difficul- 
 ty. The people immediately employed themfelves in 
 gathering cocoa nuts, which we found in the greateft 
 plenty : but it was a tedious operation to convey them 
 to our boats, being <^bliged to carry them half a mile 
 over the reef, up to the middle in water, Oma?, who^ 
 accompanied us, prefently caught with a fcoop net as 
 many fifti as fupplied the party on ftiore for dinner, 
 befides fending a quantity to each fliip. Men of war 
 and tropic birds were found here in abundance ; fo that 
 we fared moft fumptuoufly. Before night the boats 
 made two trips, and were each time heavy laden ; with 
 the laft, Captain Cook returned on board, leaving his 
 Third Lieutenant, Mr. Williamfon, with a party, to 
 prepare another lading for the boats againft the next 
 morning. ^^ ,^.. 
 
 . Accordingly, Captain Cook difpatched them about 
 feven o'clock, and by noon they returned laden. No 
 
JP A C I F I C O C E A K. ^ 65 
 
 tlelay was nvicle in fending them back for another cargo, 
 with order:- for all to be on board by fun fet. Thefe 
 ciders being pun6liially obeyed, we hoifted in the boats, 
 and failed to the weitwaid, with a light air from the 
 
 nor 
 
 th. 
 
 The illet we lafl came from is fomewhat larger than 
 the other, and almoil covered with cocoa palms. The 
 oilier produ6tions were the fame as at the firll iilet. 
 
 Tlie iflets comprehended under the name of Palmer- 
 flon's Ifland, may be faid to be the fummit of a reef of 
 coral rock, covered only with a thin coat of faiui, 
 though clothed with trees and plants, like the low 
 grounds of the high i (lands of this ocean. 
 
 Having left Palmeri ton's I (land, we fteered weft, in 
 order to proceed to Annamooka. We had variable 
 winds, with fqualls, fome thunder, and much rain. 
 The fhowers being very copious, we faved a confidera- 
 We quantity of water; and, as we could procure a 
 greater fupply in one hour by the rain than by diftilla- 
 tion in a month, we laid the ftill afide, as being at- 
 tended with more trouble than advantage. 
 
 The heat, which had continued in the extreme for 
 ahout a month, became much more difagreeable in this 
 clofe rainy weather, and we apprehended it would foon 
 be noxious ; it is, however, remarkable, that there was 
 not then a fmgle perfon iick on board either of the 
 fhips. 
 
 We pafled Savage Ifland, which Captain Cook dif- 
 covered in 1774, in the night between the 24th and 
 25th : and on the 28th, about ten o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, we faw the iflands to the eaftward of Annamooka, 
 bearing north by weft, about five leagues diftant. We 
 fteered to the fouth, and then hauled up for Anna- 
 mooka. At the approach of night, the weather being 
 fqually, with rain, we anchored in fifteen fathoms 
 water. 
 
 We had not long anchored when two canoes pad- 
 dled towards us, and came along fide without delay or 
 hefitation : there were four men in one of the canoes^ 
 and three in the other. They brought with them 
 
 fome 
 
 It 
 
 
 m 
 1(1 
 
 i i 
 
 m 
 
i 
 
 66 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 fome fugar cane, bread fruit, plantains, and co<!oa 
 nuts, which thty bartered with us for nails. Aftei? 
 thefe canoes had left us, we were vifited by another ; 
 but as night was approaching, he did not long continue 
 with us. The ifland nearefl to us was Komango, 
 which was five miles diflant. 
 
 At four o'clock the next morning, Captain Cook 
 difpatched Lieutenant King, with two boats, to Ko- 
 mango, in order to procure refrefhments ; and at five, 
 made the fignal to weigh, to proceed to Annamooka. 
 
 As foon as day light appeared, *ve were vifited by 
 fix or feven canoes, bringing with them two pigs, fome 
 fowls, feveral large wood pigeons, fmall rails, and 
 fome violet-coloured coots, befides fruits and roots of 
 various kinds ; which they exchanged with us for nails, 
 hatchets, beads, &c. They had other articles of com- 
 merce, but Captain Cook gave particular orders that 
 lio curiofities ihould be purchafed till the fhips were 
 fupplied with provifions, and until they had obtained 
 permifTion from him, ■* - .;, ' 
 
 About noon, Mr. King's boat returned with feven 
 hogs, fome fowls, a quantity of fruit and roots, and 
 alio fome grafs for our animals. - His party was treated 
 with great civility at Komango. The inhabitantr lid 
 not appear to be numerous ; and their huts, which al- 
 moft joined to each other, were but indifferent. 
 
 The boats being aboard, we flood for Annamooka, 
 and, having little wind, we intended to go between 
 Annamocka-ette and the breakers at the fouth-eafl ;. 
 but, on drawing near, we met with very irregular 
 foundings, which obliged us to relinquilh the defign, 
 and go to the fouthward. The night was dark and 
 rainy, and we had the wind from every diredlion. 
 The next morning, at day light, wc were farther off 
 than we had been the preceding evening, and the wind 
 was now right in our teeth. 
 
 We continued to ply to very little purpofe the whole 
 day, and in the evening anchored in thirty-nine fathoms 
 water. 
 
 At four the nbxt morning, Captain Cook ordered a 
 
 boat 
 
 boat 
 
 foul 
 
 he 
 
 Litt 
 
 then 
 
 Ihel 
 
 beh 
 
 VOVi 
 
 a 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. Wt" 67 
 
 boat to be hoiflecl out, and the mafter to found the 
 fouth-wefl: ficle of Annamooka. When he returned, 
 he reported, that he had founded between Great and 
 Little Annamooka, where he found ten and twelve fa- 
 thoms depth of water ; that the place was very well 
 iheltered from winds : but that no frc{h water was to 
 be had but at a con fide rable di (lance inland, and that, 
 even there, it was neither plentiful nor good. For this 
 very fuflicient reafon, Captain Cook refolved to an- 
 chor on the north fide of the ifland, where, in his lalt 
 voyage, he had found a convenient place tor watering 
 and landing. 
 
 Though not above a league diftant, we did not reach 
 it till about five o'clock in the afternoon, being retard- 
 ed by the quantity of canoes that crow^ded round the 
 {liips, laden with abundant fupplies of the produce of 
 their ifland. Several of thefe canoes, which were dou- 
 ble, had a large fail, and carried between forty and fifty 
 men each. We came to an anchor in eighteen fathoms 
 water, the ifland extending from eaft to fouth-weft, 
 about three quarters of a mile diftant. Thus Captain 
 Cook refumed the flation which hc^ had occupied when 
 he vifited Annamooka three years before. 
 
 The next day, during the preparations for watering, 
 Captain Cook went afliore, in the forenoon, accom- 
 panied by Captain Clerke, and others, to fix on a 
 place for letting up the obfervatories, the natives having 
 readily granted us permiffion. They fhewed us every 
 mark of civility, and accommodated us with a boat 
 houfe, which anfwered the purpofe of a tent, Too- 
 bou, the chief of the ifland, condu6^ed Captain Cook 
 and Omai to his houfe, fituated on a pleaLnt fpot, in 
 the ceater of his plantation. It was furrounded with 
 a grafs plat, which, he faid, was for the purpofe of 
 cleanilng their feet before they entered his habitation. 
 Such an attention to clealinefs we had never obferved 
 before, wherever we had vifited in this ocean, though 
 we afterwards found it to be very common at the 
 Friendly Iflands. No carpet in au Ei>glilh drawing 
 
 lOOXtt 
 
 
68 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ul 
 
 m. 
 
 r 
 
 room could be kept neater than the mats which covered 
 the floor of Toobou's houfe. 
 
 While we were on fhore we bartered for forne hogs 
 and fruit, and, when we arrived on board, the fliips 
 were crowded with the natives. As very few of them 
 came empty handed, we were fpeedily fupplied with 
 every refrefhment. 
 
 Our various operations on fhoFe began the next day. 
 Some were bufied in making hay, others in fiUing our 
 water cafks, and a third party in cutting wood. On 
 the fame day, MeiTrs. King and Bailey began to oh- 
 ferve equal altitudes of the iun, in order to get the rate 
 of our time keepers. 
 
 On the 4th of May, the Difcovery lofl her fmali 
 bower anchor, the cable being cut in two by the rocks. 
 ' On the 7 th, the Difcovery having found her fniall 
 bower anchor, fliifted her birth; but not till after her 
 beft bower cable had met with the fate of the other. * 
 A large junk axe having been ilolen out of the fhip 
 by one of the natives, on the firft day of our arrival at 
 Annamooka, application was made to Feenou, the 
 king of the iiland, to exert his authority to get it re- 
 flored ; who gave orders for that purpofe, which ex- 
 acted fuch implicit obedience, that it was brought on 
 board before we had finiflied our dinner. We had, in- 
 deed, many opportunities of remarking how expert 
 thefe people were in thievery. Even fome of their 
 chiefs were not afhamed of adllng in that profefiion. 
 On the 9th of May one of them was detedled carrying 
 out of the ihip the bolt belonging to the fpun-yard 
 winch, which he had carefully concealed under his 
 clothes ; for this oiFence Captain Cook fentenced him 
 to receive a dozert laihes, and to be confined till he 
 paid a hog for his liberty. Though after this circum- 
 flance wc were troubled with no more thieves of rar.i., 
 their fervants or (laves were conftantly employed in 
 this dirty bufinefs, and they received a flogging with 
 as much feeming indifference as if it had been upon the 
 mainmaft. When any of them were caught in the a(5l 
 €>f thievuig, iailead of interceding ia their behalf, their 
 
 ♦trailers 
 
 maile 
 a pun 
 ufuall 
 were : 
 poral 
 Clerk( 
 pofed 
 he ord 
 thus p 
 countr 
 deprivt 
 their t 
 Feei 
 on boa 
 of our 
 mefs v 
 flfli, fc 
 inilead 
 lie wed 
 and it ^ 
 tain Cc 
 with it 
 drefled 
 ceeded t 
 he atter 
 Havii 
 almofl: ( 
 May, V 
 horles, : 
 to fail 2 
 bed boi 
 tain me 
 treated 1 
 iion to 
 to prom 
 warmly 
 paee, lyi 
 could be 
 freflimen 
 fon. In 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 69 
 
 mailers woulil often advife us to kill them. This heing 
 u puniihment we were not fond of infli6ling, they 
 iifually efcaped without any kindof punifliment. They 
 were ahke infenfible of the flianie and torture of cor- 
 poral chaflifement. At length, however, Captain 
 Gierke contrived a mode of treatment, which we fup- 
 pofed had fome efFedl. Immediately upon detedlion 
 'le ordered their heads to be completely ihaved, and 
 thus pointed them out as obje6ls of ridicule to their 
 countrymen, and put our people u'pon their guard, to 
 deprive them of future opportunities for a repetition of 
 their thefts. 
 
 Feenou was fo fond of our company, that he dined 
 on board every day, though he did not always partake 
 of our fare. On the loth, his fervants brought him a 
 mefs which had been drefled on fhore, confifling of 
 fifh, foup, and yams ; cocoa-nut liquor had been ufed 
 inftead of water, in which the fifh had been boiled or 
 ftewed (perhaps in a wooden veffel with hot ftones) 
 and it was carried on board on a plantain leaf. Cap- 
 tain Cook tailed of the mefs, and was fo well pleafed 
 with it, that he afterwards ordered fome filh to be 
 drefled in the fame way ; but, though his cook fuc- 
 ceeded tolerably well, it was much inferior to the diih 
 he attempted to imitate. 
 
 Having, in a great meafure, exhaufled the ifland of 
 almoft every article of food, on Sunday, the nth of 
 May, we removed from the fliore the obfervatorje^, 
 horles, and other things that we had landed ; intending 
 to fail as foon as the Difcovery fhould have found her 
 befl bower anchor. Feenou, hearing that the Cap- 
 tain meant to proceed to Tongatahoo, earneftly un- 
 treated him to alter his plan ; exprefling as much av r- 
 fion to it, as if, by diverting him from it, he wifhed 
 to promote fome particular interefl of his own. He 
 warmly recommended a group of illands, called Ha- 
 paee, lying to the north-eaft ; where, he afliired us, we 
 could be eafily and plentifully fupplied with every rc- 
 freftiment, and even offered to attend us thither in per-^^ 
 ion. In confetjuence of his advice, Hapaee was made 
 
 I choice 
 
 n 
 11 
 
 
 i 
 
 \» 
 
yo A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 choice of; and, as it had not been vifited by any Eu- 
 ropean lliips, the furveying it became an objedl to 
 Captain Cook. 
 
 On Tuefday the 13th, Captain Gierke's anchor was 
 happily recovered, and, on the m< ; ning of the I4tb, 
 we got under iaii .md left Annamooka. 
 
 'I hough this iliand is fomewhat higher than the 
 other linali illes that furround it^ yet it is lower than 
 Mangeea and Watti-oo, and even thofe are but of a 
 moderate height. The Ihore where our iliips lay, con- 
 iifts of a fteep, lugged, coral rock, about nine or ten 
 feet high, Gxrept two fandy beaches, which are defend- 
 ed from the tea by a reef of the fame fort of rock. In 
 the center of the ifland there is a lalt-water lake, about 
 a mile and a half in breadth, round which the ground 
 rifes with a gradual afcent, and we could not trace its 
 having any communication with the fea. On the rifing 
 parts of the ifland, and efpecially towards the fea, the 
 foil is either of a blackilh loole mould, or a reddiih 
 clay ; but there is not a ftream of frefli water to be 
 found in any part of the iliand. 
 
 The land here is well cultivated, except In a few 
 places ; and, though fome parts appear to 1 ie wafte, 
 they are only left to recover the ilrength exhaulled by 
 conftant culture, for we often faw the natives at work 
 upon thefe fpots, in order to plant them again. Yams 
 and plantains form their principal plantations ; many 
 of which are very extenfive, and enclofed with fences 
 of reed about fix feet high. Fences of lefs compafs 
 were often {ten within thefe, furrounding the houfes 
 of the principal people. The bread fruit and cocoa- 
 nut trees are interiperfed without any regular order, 
 but principally near the habitations of the natives. 
 The other parts of the ifland, efpecially towards tlie 
 fea, and round the lake, are covered with luxuriant 
 trees and buflies, among which there are a great many 
 mangroves and fatanoo trees. 
 
 In the dire(9: track to Hapaee, whither wc were now 
 "bound, to the north and iiorth-eafl of Annamooka, a 
 jgreat nunii>er of fmali iik^ artfcwit Amidfl; the rocks 
 
 ana 
 
 .ao. 
 
 He Itro 
 and in 
 tarter ( 
 acceptit 
 
few 
 
 fte, 
 
 by 
 
 ork 
 
 ams 
 
 iany 
 
 a, a 
 
 3cks 
 
 and 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAl?. , fl 
 
 and ilioals adjoining to this gror.p, we were doubf ful 
 whetlier there was a free pali'.'.ge for jhips of fuch mag- 
 nitude as ours, though the naiives failed through the 
 intervals in tlieir canoes ; thcrefoic, when we weighed 
 anchor from Annamooka, we lleeicd to go to the weft- 
 ward of the above iflands, and iiorth-nurrii-weft towards 
 Kao andToofoa, two iilands remarkabL for their great 
 height, and the nioft wclterly ot thai • in fight. Fee- 
 nou, with his attendants, remained in the Refolutioa 
 till about noon, and then (entered the large failing ca- 
 noe whicli had brought him from '1 <ngataboo, and 
 ftood in among the clufter of ifiands, of which we 
 were now abreail. 
 
 In the afternoon, about four o'clock, we fleered to 
 the north, leaving Toofoa and Koa on our larboard. 
 We intended to have anchored for the night, but it 
 arrived before we could find a place in IcCs than fifty 
 fathoms water ; and we rather chofe to fpend the night 
 under fail, than come to in fuch a depth. 
 
 In the afternoon we had been within two leagues of 
 Toofoa, and obferved the fmoke of it feveral times in 
 the day. There is a volcano upon it, of which the 
 Friendly Iflanders entertained fome fuperflitious no- 
 tions, and call it Kollofeea, faying, it is an Otooa, or 
 divinity. We were informed that it fometimes throws 
 up very large ftones, and the crater is compared to the 
 fize or a fmall iflet, which has not ceafed fmoking in 
 the memory of the inhabitants, nor have they any tra- 
 dition that it ever did. We were told that 'I oofoa 
 was but thinly inhabited, but that the water upon it 
 was excellent. 
 
 At day break, on the 15th, we were not far from 
 Kao, which is a large rock of a conic figure; we 
 fleered to the pafTage between Footooha and Hafaiva, 
 with a gentle breeze at fouth-eaft. About ten o'clock, 
 Feenou came on board, and continued with \is all day. 
 He l^rought with him a quantity of fruit and two hogs; 
 and in the courfe of the day, feveral canoes came to 
 barter quantities of the former article, which was very 
 acceptiibie to us, as our flock began to be low. At 
 
 noon 
 
 
fk A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 noon, our lititude was 19° 49* 45" fouth, and we 
 had made feven miles of longitude, from Annamooka. 
 
 After having pafled Footooha, we met with a reef 
 of rocks, and there being but little wind, it was at- 
 tended with fome difficulty to keep clear of them. 
 Having pafled this reef, we hauled up for Neeneeva, 
 a fmall low ifle in the direction of eaft-north-eaft from 
 Footooha, in hopes of finding an anchorage, but were 
 again difappointed : for, notwithftanding we had land 
 in every dire6lion, the fea was unfathomable. 
 
 At day break on the i6th, we (leered with a gentle 
 breeze at fouth-eaft for Hapaee, which was now in 
 figlit; and perceived it to be low land, from the trees 
 only appearing above the water. At nine o'clock we 
 faw it plainly forming three iflands, nearly equal in 
 fr^e ; and foon after, a fourth appeared to the fouth- 
 ward of thefe, as large as any of the others. Each of 
 the iflands appeared to be of a fimilar height and 
 appearance, and about fix or feven miles in length. 
 The moft northern of them is called Haanno, the 
 next P'oa, the third Lefortga, and the fourth Hoo- 
 laiva; but they are all four included under the general 
 name of Hapaee. . , 
 
 By the funlet we got up with the northernmoft of 
 thefe ifles, where we experienced the fame diftrefs 
 for want of anchorage that we did the two preceding 
 evenings; having another night to fpend under fail, 
 with land and breakers in every direction. Feenou, 
 who had .been on board all day, went forward to Ha- 
 paee in the evening, and took Omai with him in the 
 canoe. He was not unmindful of our difagreable fitua- 
 tion, and kept up a good fire the whole night, by way 
 of a land mark. 
 
 At the return of daylight on the 17th, being then 
 dole in with Foa, we perceived it was joined to 
 Haanno, by a reef running from one ifland to the 
 other, even with the furface of the fea. Capt. Cook 
 difpatched a boat to look for anchorage; and a prpper 
 place was found. We were not above three quarters 
 «f a mile from the fhore; and as we lay before a 
 
 creek 
 
 creel 
 
 time: 
 
 A 
 
 by a 
 
 filled 
 fowlt 
 cloth 
 Oma 
 in or 
 the if 
 purjx 
 Th 
 cloie 
 n few 
 Omai 
 cJiiefs 
 and tl 
 nfked-' 
 days, 
 and d 
 them \ 
 afterw 
 old an 
 who 
 that d 
 arty th 
 ner. 
 fhoiilj 
 which 
 be efui 
 nddref* 
 Captai 
 rjecelT:! 
 chief ot 
 for this 
 peiSlatit 
 iiora tv 
 o\en fr 
 I'eea 
 
 ]] 
 
 I, 
 
la- 
 
 en 
 to 
 he 
 ok 
 i5er 
 
 ■ ? A C t F I C OCEAN, 73 
 
 creek in the reef it was convenient landing at all 
 times^ • i-^ , , 
 
 As foon as we had anchored, we were furroundeJ 
 hy a multitude of canoes, and our Ihips were prefently 
 filled with the natives. They hrought with them hogs, 
 fowls, fruit, and roots, which they exchanged for 
 cloth, knives, beads, nails, and hatchets. Feenou and 
 Omai having come on board early in the morning, 
 in order to introduce Captain Gook to tlie people of 
 the ifland, he foon ace npanied them on fhore for that 
 pur|K>fe. 
 
 ']'he chief condadled tlie Captain to a hut, fituated 
 clofe to the fea beach, which was brought thither but 
 a few minutes before for his reception. In' this Feenou, 
 Omai, and Captain Cook were feated. The other 
 cliiefs and the multitude fronting them on the outfide, 
 and thev alfo feated themfelves. Captain Cook beinp" 
 aiked how long he intended to fray, anfwered, fivs 
 days. Taipa was tlierefore ordered to fit by him, 
 and declare this to the people. He then harangued 
 them in wK^rds nearly to tlie following purport, as z 
 afterwards were informed bv Omai. He exhorted ■ )th. 
 old and young to look upon Captain Cook as a i\ cia, 
 who meant to continue with them a few days; and 
 that during his flay among them, they would not flieal 
 any thing from him, or oiiend him in any other man*- 
 iier. He informed them, that it was expe6led they 
 fhoulj bring hogs, fowls, fruit, &c. to the fliips; for 
 which they would receive in exchange, fuch articles ais 
 he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had delivered his 
 nddrefs to the afiembly, Feenou left them, on which 
 Captain Cook was informed by Taipa, that it was 
 iieceiTary he lliould make a prefent to Eraoupa, the 
 chief of the illand. The Captain l>eing not unprepared 
 for this, gave him fuch articles as far exceeded liis ex- 
 pectation. This liberalitv created nmilar demands 
 horn two chiefs of other ides who were prefent, and 
 c\en from Taipa himfelf, 
 
 Feenou now refum^jd his feat, ordering Eraoupa to 
 
 K c , :. lit 
 
 
 11 
 
 iii 
 
 11 
 
 >'- II 
 
74 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 iit by him, and harrangue the people, as Taipa had 
 done, which he did nearly to the lame purpofe. 
 
 I'hefe ceremonies over, the chief, at the Captain's 
 requeft, condu£^ed him to the three ftagnant pools of 
 what he called frefh water; in one of which the water 
 Avas indeed tolerable, and the fituation convenient for 
 iilling our calks. 
 
 On Sunday the i8th, early in the morning, Feenou 
 and Omai, who now flept on fhore with the chief, 
 came on board to requefl Captain Cook's prefence upon 
 the ifland. He accompanied them, and upon land- 
 ing, was condu6led to the place where he had been 
 feated the preceding day, and where he beheld a large 
 xoncourfe of people already aflembled. Though he 
 imagined that fomething extraordinary was In agita- 
 tion, yet he could not conjedlure what, nor could Omai 
 give him any information. ^ 
 
 Soon after he was feated, about an hundred of the 
 natives appeared, and advanced, laden with yams, plan- 
 tains, bread fruit, cocoa nuts, and fugar canes; their 
 burdens were depofited on our left. A number of 
 others arrived foon after, bearing the fame kind of ar- 
 ticles, which were coUedted into two piles on the right 
 fide. To thefe were faftenej two pigs, and half a dozen 
 fowls; and to thofe upon the left, fix pigs and two 
 turtles. Earoupa feated himfelf before the articles on 
 the left fide, and another chief before thofe upon the 
 right; they being, it was fuppofed, tlie two chiefs who 
 had procured them by order of T'eenou, who was as 
 implicitly obeyed here, as he had been at Annamooka, 
 and who had probably laid this tax upon the chiefs of 
 Hapaee for the prefent occafion. 
 
 When this munificent colledlion of providons was 
 placed in order, and advantageoufly difpofed, the 
 bearers of it joined the multitude, who formed a cir- 
 cle round the whole. Immediately after, a number 
 of men armed with clubs, entered this circle or area; 
 where they paraded abopt for a few minutes, and then 
 one half of them retired to one fide and the other half 
 to ihe other fide, leatlng themfelves before the fpe6ta- 
 
 tora. 
 
FACIfIC OC£AK«.^ 75 
 
 tors. Prefently after, they fucceffively entertained us 
 with Tingle combats; on^ champion from one fide 
 c\Mcngi\ig ^hofe from the other fide, partly by words, 
 but mor** by expreflivc geftures, to fend one of their 
 party to oppufe him, 'I he challenge was in general 
 accepted: th<' two combatant i. r>|aced themfehes in pro- 
 pi^r attitudes, and the ciigr»gement began, which con- 
 tinued till one of thorn yielded, or till their weapons 
 were broken. At the conclufion of each combat, the 
 vidlor fquatted himfelf dawn before the chief, then im- 
 mediately rofe up and retired. Some old men who 
 feemed to prefide as judges, gave their plaudits in a 
 very few words; and the multitude, efpecialiy thofe 
 on the fide of the conqueror, celebrated the glory he 
 had acquired in two or three loud huzzas. 
 
 This entertainment was fometimes fufpended for a 
 fliort fpace, and the intervals of time were filled up 
 with wreftling and boxing matches. The iirfl were 
 performed in the manner pradlifed at Otaheite, and 
 the fecond differed very little from the Engliih manner. 
 A couple of ftout wenches next llepped forth, and 
 without ceremony began boxing with as much dexte- 
 rity as the men. This contefl, however, was but of 
 fhort duration, for in the fpace of half a minute one 
 of them gave it up. , The vi6iorious heroine was ap- 
 plauded by the fpedlators, in the fame manner as the 
 fuccefsful combatants of the other fex. Tliough we 
 exprefled fome difapprobation at this part of the en- 
 tertainment, it did not hinder two other females from 
 entering the lifts, who feemed to be fpirited girls, and 
 if tvvo old women had not interpofed to part them, 
 would probably have given each other a good drub- " 
 bing. At leaft three thouland fpedlators were prefenC 
 when thele combat i were exhibited, and every thing 
 was co:\du6lcd with the moft perfe(ffc good humour on 
 all inles ; though fome of the cliampions of both (exes 
 received blows which they muli have felt the effevft 
 of for fome time after. 
 
 The diverficns being finiflied, the chief informed 
 Captain Cook, that the provifions on our right hand 
 
 E 2 were 
 
 
 m 
 
 

 W \T 1^. 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 // 
 
 '^S 
 
 
 %^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 1.0 
 
 I.I 
 
 ■tt Ui |Z2 
 2.0 
 
 1*0 
 
 IL25 III 1.4 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 '/ 
 
 ^ sprac 
 Sdfflices 
 Cbrporation 
 
 23 WIST MAIN STRliT 
 
 WISSTIR.N.Y. USM 
 
 (716)I73-4S03 
 

7^ AVOYACETOTIIE 
 
 wei:e a prefcnt to Omai; and that thofe on our left, 
 making about two-thirds of the whole quantity) were 
 intended for him, and that he might fuit his own con- 
 venience in taking them on board. 
 
 Four boats' were loaded with the munificence of 
 Feenou, whofe f;\vours exceeded any Captain Cook 
 had ever received from the fovereigns of any of the 
 ilf^nds which he had vilited in fhe Pacific Ocean. He 
 therefore embraced the firft opportunity of convincing 
 Fi^enou, that he was not infen(Jble of^ his liberality, 
 •;by beftowing upon him fuch commodities as he fup- 
 I)ofed were moft valual)Ie in his eftimation. . I'eenou 
 uas fo highly pleafed with the return that was made 
 bim, that he left the Captain ft ill indebted to him, 
 by iending Him two large hogs, fome yams, and a 
 confidcrahle quantity of cloth. 
 
 Feenou having exprefled a defue to fee the marines 
 perform their exercife, Captain Cook ordered them 
 all a/llore on "the morning of the 20th of May. Af- 
 thcv had gone tlirough various evolutions, and fired 
 fevend vollies, which feemed to give pleafure to our 
 wuuierovis fpcdlators, the chief, in his turn, entertained 
 us with an exhibition, which was performed with ail 
 exadlnefs and dexterity far furpafllng what they had 
 {t;:m of our military manoeuvres. It was a kind of 
 fiance, performed by men, in wliich one hundred and 
 five i>eribns were engaged; each having an inftmmcnt 
 in his hand refembling a paddle, two feet luid a half 
 long, with a thin blade and a fmall handle, Witli 
 thefe inftruments various flouriihes were made, each 
 of which was accompanied with a different movement 
 or a different attitude of the body. At firft, the dan- 
 cers langed themfelves in three lines, and fo changed 
 thuir ftations by different evolutions, that thofe who 
 had been in the rear cainii into the front. At one 
 purt of the performance, they extended themfelves in 
 «)i\L- line, afterwards they formed themfelves into a fe- 
 n^icircle, and theji into two ftpiare columns. During 
 the hi\ movement, one of them came forward, aVid 
 
 • per-' 
 
 aii^ 
 
PACIFIC OCEAlfT. 
 
 11 
 
 performed an antic dance before Captain Cook, witl^' 
 which the entertainment ended. ..^1 
 
 The mufic that accompanied tlie dances wns pro- 
 duced by two drums, or rather logs of wood, from 
 whicli they farced fome varied notes by beating on 
 them with two flicks. The dancers, 'however, did not 
 appear to be much aiuiled or diretSled by thefe founds; 
 but by a chorus of vocal mufic, in which all the 
 performers joined. Their fong was rather melodious, 
 and their correfponding motions were Ibfkillfully ex- 
 ecuted, that the whole body of dancers appeared as 
 one regular machine. Such a performance would luve 
 been applauded even on an European theatre. It f;tr 
 exceeded any attempt that we had made to entertain, 
 them; infomuch that they feemed to plume themfelves 
 on their fuperiority over us. They efteemed none of 
 our mufical inftruments, except the drum, and even 
 thought that inferior to their own. They held our 
 Flinch horns in the highefl contempt, and would not 
 pay the fmalleft attention to them, either here or at 
 any other of the iflands. 
 
 To give them a more favourable opniiorr of the 
 amufements and fuperior attainments of the Englifh, 
 Captain Cook ordered fome fireworks to be prepared; 
 and, after it was dark, exhibited them in the preience 
 ©f Feenou, and a vafl multitude of people. They 
 were highly entertained with the performance in ge- 
 neral; but our water and fky rockets in particular, 
 alloniflied them beyond all conception. They nov^ 
 admitted that the fcale was turned in our favour. ,,, 
 
 This was followed by eve.y exertion of the nativQS 
 to entertain us, and their muAc and dancing were 
 continued for fome time, in which the women had 
 no inconfiderable fliare, moving with much grace and 
 agiHty. 
 
 Soon after a perfon unexpedledly entered, making 
 fome ludicrous remarks on the fireworks that had been 
 exhibited, which extorted a burft of laughter from the 
 croud. We had then a dance by the attendantfi of 
 leenQU : they formed a double circle of twenty-four 
 
 E ^ each 
 
j8 A V O V A G E T O T H £ 
 
 each rotind the (Chorus, and joined in a gentle Toothing 
 fcing, aiccompanjed with motions of the head and hands. 
 They alfo began with flow movements, which gradu- 
 ally became more and more rapid, and Anally clofed 
 with feveral very ingenious tranfpofitions of the two 
 circles. ^n.: 
 
 The feftivity of this memorable night concluded 
 with "a dance^ in which the principal people aiFil^ed. 
 In many refped^s it refembled the precedlrfg ones, but 
 ih^y increafed their motions to a prodigious quicknefs, 
 fliaking tKeir heads from fhoulder to fhoulder, infomuch 
 that they appeared in danger of diflocating their necks. 
 This was attended with a cJapping of the hands, and a 
 kind of favage holla ! or fliriek. A jierlon, on on« 
 fide, repeated fomething in a truly mulJcal recitative, 
 and with an air fo graceful, as might put fomeof our 
 applauded performers to the blufli. He was an- 
 fivered by another, and this was repeated feveral times 
 bv the whole body on each (ide ; and they finiihed, by 
 finging and dancing, as they had begun. 
 
 The two laft dances were univerfally approved by all 
 the fpedlators. They were perfecftly in time, and feme 
 of their geftures were fo expreflive, that it might juftly 
 be faid, they fpoke the language that accompanied 
 them. 
 
 The theatre for thefe perfonnances was an open fpace 
 amone the trees, bordering on the fea, with ligiits, - 
 plaped at fmall intervals, round the infide of the circle^ 
 Though the concourfe of people was pretty large, their 
 number was much inferior to that aflembled in the fore- 
 nc^ti, when the marines performed their exercife. At 
 that time many of our gentlemen fuppofed there might 
 be prefeht five thoufand perfons, or upward ; but Cap- 
 tain Cook fuppofes that to be rather an exaggerated 
 account. 
 
 ' The next day, which was the a i ft of May, Cap-» 
 tain Cook made an excurfion into the liland of Lefooga, 
 on foot, which he found to be, in fome refpe^ls, fupe- 
 rior to Annamooka, the plantations being not only more 
 numerous, but alfo more extenfiw* Many parts of 
 
 the. 
 
f A C 1 F I C O C E A 1^ 79 
 
 t)ie country, near the Tea, are Aill waile ; owing, per- 
 haps to the fandinefs of the foil. But, in the internal 
 part of the iiland, the foil is better ; and the marks uf 
 c 'lAderable population, and of an improved ftate of 
 Ci tivation, are very confpicuous. Many of the plan- 
 tation? are enclofed in fuch a manner, that the fences, 
 runniiig - parallel to each other, form fpaclous public 
 roads. Large fpots, covered with the paper mulberry 
 trees, were obferved ; and the plantations, in general, 
 were abundantly flocked with fuch plants and fruit 
 trees as the iiland produces. To thefe the Commodore 
 made fome addition, by fowing the feeds of melons, 
 pumkins, Indian corn, &c. Near the landing-pl'&ce 
 we obferved a mount two or three feet high, on which 
 Aood four or five little huts, wherein the bodies of 
 fome perfons of diAind^ion had been interred. The 
 iiland is but feven miles in length; and its breadth, in^ 
 fome places, is not above three miles. The eaft fide 
 has a reef, proje6ling confiderably, againft which the 
 fea breaks with great violence. It is a continuation ji 
 this reef that joins Lefooga to Foa, which is but half 
 a mile diflant ; and, at low water, the natives can walk 
 upon this reef from one ifland to the other. The 
 fhore is either a fandy beach, or a coral rock* 
 
 When the Captain returned from his excurdon, and 
 Went on board, he found a large failing canoe faftened 
 to the ileni of the Refolution. In this canoe was La- 
 tooliboula, whom the Commodore had feen, during his 
 lafl voyage, at Tongataboo, and who was then fuppofed 
 by him to be the king of that iiland. He could not be 
 prevailed upon to come on board, but continued iltting 
 in his canoe with an air of uncommon gravity. The 
 iHanders called him Areekce, which iignifies Kir '; a 
 title which we had not heard any of them give to Feie- 
 nou, however exteniive his authority over them had ap-. 
 peared to be. Latooliboula remained upder the f^rn 
 till the evening, and then departed. F^eenou wis c^i^ 
 board the Refolution at that time ; but neither of thefe 
 chief% took the fmalleft notice of the other, 
 i On the a3d, as ^t were preparing to lea ve the iiland, 
 
 E4 Fecnou 
 
8o 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Feenou and his prime-minifter Taipa came along-fide 
 in a caiioe, an J informed us that thry were going to 
 Vuvaoo, an iiland fituate, as they faid, about two days 
 fail to the northward of Hapaee. They affured us> 
 that the ob]e6t of their voyage was to procure for us an 
 additional fupply of hogs, befides foine red-teathered 
 caps for Omai to carry with him toOtaheite ; and de- 
 fired us not to fail till their return, which would be in 
 four or five days ; after which Feenou would accompany 
 us to Tongataboo. Captain Cook confented to wait 
 the return of this chief) who iimnediately fet out for 
 VavaoD. 
 
 On Saturday the 25th, Captain Cook went int« 
 a houfe where a woman was drefling the ey«s of a 
 child, who feemed blind. The inftruments ufed by this 
 female oculifl were two flender wooden probes, with 
 wvhich ihe bnifhed the eye lb as to make tliem bleed. 
 In the fame houfe he found another woman (having a 
 child's head with a ihark's tooth, fluck into the end of 
 a ftick : ihe £rfl wetted the hair with a rag dipped » 
 water, and t)ien making ufe of her inilrument, took 
 off the hair as cloie as If a razor had been employed* 
 Captain Cook foon after tried upon himfelf one of thefe 
 remarkable inflruments, which he found to be an ex- 
 cellent fubftitute. The natives of tliefe iflands, how- 
 ever, have a diiFerent method of iliaving tlieir beards, 
 which oi>eration they perform with two fliells ; one of 
 which they place under a part jof the beard, and with 
 the other, applied above, tliey fcrape off that part : 
 in this manner they can Ihave very clofe^ though the 
 procefs is ratlier tedious. There are among them fome 
 men who feem toprofefs this trade: for it was as cooi'- 
 iiioA for our lailors to go aikore to have their beards 
 .4craped ofi^a&er tliemodeof Hapaee, as it was for their 
 citiefs to come on board to be ihaved by our barbers. 
 
 Captain Cook finding that little or nothing of what 
 the ifland produced was now j>fx)ught to the Aiips, de> 
 termined to change his flat ion, and Co wait Feenou's 
 return in fome other anchoring ]^ace, where we/niglil: 
 iliy njeet with r«?fi:rih»6;U5. W^e siccordingiy, on the 
 
PACIFIC O C E A K. 8i 
 
 26^h, made fail to the fouthward along the reef of the 
 illaiid, and having pafled feveral flioals, hauled into a 
 bay, that lies between the north end of Hoolaiva, and 
 the fouth of Lefooga, and there anchored. We had 
 no fooner caft anchor, than Mr. Bligh, Mafter of the 
 Refolution, was fent to found the bay where we were 
 now flationed; and Captain Cook, accompanied by** 
 Lieutenant Gore, landed on the fouthern part of Le- 
 fooga, to look for frefli water, and examine the coun- 
 try. On tlie approach of night, the Captain and Mr. 
 Gore returned on board, and Mr. Bligh came back 
 from founding the bay, in which he found froin fouj*- 
 teen to twenty fathoms water, with a bottom priticl- 
 pally of fand. ' ' 
 
 Lefooga and Hoolaiva are feparated from each other 
 by a reef of coral- rocks, dry at low water. Some of 
 our gentlemen, who landed in the laft-n^.eationed idand, 
 found not the fmalleft mark of cultivation, or hatitaf- 
 tion, upon it, except a fmgle hut, in w^^iich a man 
 emploved to catch fiih and turtle refided* 
 
 On Tuefday the 27 th, at break of day, the Com- 
 modore made the fignal to weigh ; and as he intendcil 
 to atteinpt, in his way to Tongataboo, a paHage to Au- 
 namooka, by the Ibuth-weft, amojig the intennediatB 
 iiles, he fent Mr. Bligh in a boat to found before the 
 iliips. But before we got under fail^ the wind becdme 
 fo variable and unfettled, as to render it uufafe toatti^mjMt 
 a paflage with which we were fo little acquainted : w^ 
 therefore lay faft, and made fignal for tne Mailer to 
 return. He and the Mafter of the Difcovery were af"- 
 terwards fent, each in a boat, to examine the chamiels* 
 Towards noon, a large lailing canoe came Under our 
 ftern, in which was a perfon named Ponlaho, or l^ut^ 
 tafaihe, or both ; who was faid, by the natives then oa 
 board, to be kinjg of 1 ongataboo, Annamooka, Hapaee^ 
 and all the neighbouring illands. We were furprized 
 to hnd a ftranger dignified with this title, which we 
 had been taught to believe appertained to aiiother : but 
 they perfifted in their affertions, that the fupreme dig- 
 nity belonged to PouIaIio ; and now for the firfi time 
 
 E 5 ackoow-i 
 
82 
 
 A VOYAOS TO THE 
 
 acknowledged, that Feenou was not the kin^, but a 
 ^fubordinate chief, though of great power. PoUlaho 
 ;.wa« now invited by the Captain on board, where he 
 ^ was not an unwelcome guefl, as he brought with him 
 : two fat hogs by way of prefent« This great pcrfonage, 
 J though not very tall, was extremely unwieldy, and 
 . almoft fhapelefs with corpulence. He appeared to be 
 ^ about forty ; his hair was (Iraight, and his features 
 confiderably different from thofe of'the majority of his 
 » people. We found him to be a man of gravity and 
 ! good ienfe. He viewed the (hip, and the various new 
 objects, with particular attention; and afked many 
 . pertinent queftions. When he had gratified his curio- 
 £ty in loojcing at the cattle, and other novelties, lie 
 was requeAed to walk down into the cabin ; to which 
 fome of his retinue objedled, faying, that if he ihould 
 go down thither, it would doubtlefs happen that people 
 would walk over his head ; a circumflance that could 
 not be permitted. Though the Captain offered to ob- 
 iriate this objedlion, by ordering that no one fhould 
 prefuine to walk over the cabin, Poulaho waved all 
 ,#eremony, and went down without any previous fli- 
 pulation. He now appeared to be no lefs folicitous 
 than his people were, to convince us that he was fove- 
 rdgn, and not Feenou. He fat down to dinner with 
 QSf but eat and drank very little; and afterwards de- 
 fined our Commodore to accompany him on fhore. 
 Captain Cook attended the chief in his own boat, hav- 
 ing £rfl made him fuch preients as exceeded his expec- 
 tations; in return for which, Poulaho ordered two 
 more ho^s to be fent on board. The chief was then 
 •carried out of the boat, by his own fubje^ts, on a 
 hoard relembling a hand-barrow; and immediately 
 feated himfelf in a (mall houfe near the fhore. Hs 
 placed the Captain at his fide; and his attendants 
 formed a femi-circle before them, on the outfide of the 
 houfe. An old woman fat clofe to the chief, with a 
 kind of fan in her hand, to prevent his being incom- 
 moded by the flies. The various articles which his 
 people had procured by trading on board the fhips, being 
 
ige, 
 
 md 
 
 be 
 
 It. 
 
 » f 
 
 T! 
 •VI. 
 
 ,'.Tn. 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. •. 8j 
 
 now ilifplayed before him, he atteotively looked over 
 them all, inquired what they had given in exchange, 
 and, at length, ordered every thing to be returned to 
 the rcfpe^ive owners, except a giafs-bowl, which h9 
 referved for himfelf. Thofe who brought thefe things 
 to him, firil fquatted themfelves down before him, then 
 depofited their purchafes, and inflantly roTe and retired. 
 They obferved the fame ceremony in taking them away; 
 and not one of them prefumed to fpeak to him fV:tid- 
 ing. His attendants, juft before they left him, paid 
 him obeifance, by bowing their heads down to the fole 
 of his foot, and touching it with the upper and under 
 (ide of the fingers of each hand. Captain Cook was 
 charmed with the decorum that was maintained on 
 this occafion, having fcarce feen the like any where^ 
 even among more civilized nations. 
 
 When the Captain arrived on board, he found the 
 Mafter returned from his expedition,- who informed- 
 him, that, as far as he had proceeded, there was a 
 pafi[age for the ihips, 4tid tolerable anchorage ; but that) 
 towards the fouth and fouth-eaft, he obferved numerous 
 ihoals, breakers^ and fmidl ifles. In tonfe^fbence of 
 this report, we relinquifhed all tlioughts of a pafiage 
 that way ; and being refolved to return to Annamooka 
 by the fame route which we had fb lately experienced 
 to be a fafe one, we fhould have failed thie next Aiorn* 
 ing, which was the 28th, if the wind had not been 
 very unfettled. "• * •"'' 
 
 r*' On the 29th, at day-break, we weighed with a' fine 
 breeze at eaft north-eafl, and made fail to the weil- 
 ward, followed by feveral failing canoes. 
 
 la the afternoon the eaflerly wind was fucceeded by 
 ^ frefh breeze at fouth fouth-ead. Our coutfe being 
 now fouth fouth- wefl, we were obliged to ply to wind- 
 ward, and; barely fetched the noi-them fide of Footooha 
 by eigiit o'clock in the evening. The next day we 
 plied up to Lofanga, and got foundings, undter the lee 
 or north- weft fide, in forty fathoms Water; but the 
 bottom being rocky, and a chain of breakers lying to 
 leeward, we flretched away for Kotoo^ expelling to 
 
 £ 6 . . find 
 
t4 A V0VA6E td THIS 
 
 find better anchorage there. It was dark before wo 
 realched that idrand, where finding no convenient place 
 to anchor in, wc pafled the night in making ibort boardii* 
 On the 31ft, at break of day» we flood for the chan- 
 nel which is btftween Kotoo, and the reef of rocks 
 lying to the weflward of it ; but, on our approach^ 
 we found the wind infu£Scient to lead us through* 
 We therefore bore up on the outfide of the reef, and 
 ilretched to the fouth-weft till near twelve o'clock, 
 when, perceiving tliat we made no progrefs to wind- 
 ward, and being apprehenfive of lofing the iilands while 
 we had fo many of the natives on board, we tacked 
 and flood back, and fpent the night between Footooha 
 and Kotoo. The wind now blew frefli, with fqualls 
 and rain ; and, during the night, the Refolution, by a 
 fmall change of the wind, fetching too far to the wind- 
 ward, was very near running full upon a low fandy 
 ifle, named Pootoo Pootooa, erxompafTed with break- 
 ers. Our people having fortunately been jufl ordered ' 
 upon deck, to put the iliip about, and mofl of them 
 being at their refpedtive flattons, the nccefTary move- 
 ments were performed with judgment and alertnefs ; 
 and this alone preferved us from deArudlion. The 
 Difcovery, being aAern, incurred no danger. 
 » On the return of day light, a boat was UoiAed out, 
 and the officer who commanded her was ordered to found 
 for anchorage along the reef that projedls from that 
 ifland. During the abfence of the boat, we endea- 
 voured to turn the fhips through the channel between 
 the reef of Kotoo and the fandy ifle ; but meethig with 
 ^ ftrong current agaiufl ns, we were obliged to defifl^ 
 and can anchor in fifty fathoms water, the fandy iile 
 bearing eafl by north, about the diflance of one mile* 
 Here we remained till the 4th of June, being frequently 
 "vifltedby the king, by Tooboueitoa, and by people who 
 came from the neighbouring iilands to traffic with us. 
 Mr. Bligh was, in the mean time, difpatched to found 
 the channels between the iflands fiiuate to the eaflward ; 
 and Capta'ui Cook himfelf landed on Kotoo, to take a 
 j^rvey of it. This iHaod, on account of the coral 
 u, jreefs 
 
 reel 
 
 Its 
 
 miJ 
 
 claj 
 
 witi 
 
 th< 
 
 lenj 
 
 it, 
 cati 
 
 afri 
 m 
 
PACIFIC OCEAir. 8^ 
 
 reefs that environ it, is fcarcely acceiTible by boats* 
 Its north-wed end is low ; but it riles fuJdenly in the 
 middle/ and terminates at the fouth-eaO end in reddiAi 
 clayey ciiftV. It protluces tlie fame fruits and roots 
 with the adjacent iflands, and is tolerably cultivate4» 
 though thinly inhabited. It is abont two miles in 
 length. While the Commodore was walking all over 
 it, our people were occupied in cutting grafs for the 
 cattle ; and we planted Ibme melon feeds. 
 
 We weighed in the morning of the 4th, and, with 
 a frefli gale at eaft fouth-eaft, made fail towards An- 
 namooka, where we anchored the next morning, nearly 
 in the fame (lation which we had fo lately occupied* 
 Captain Cook foon after went on ihore, and found the 
 iflanders very bufy in their plantations, digging up 
 yams for traffic. In the courfe of the day, about two 
 hundred of them aflembkd on the beach, and traded 
 with great eagernefs. The yams were now ii^ the 
 higlieft perfection ; and we obtained a good quantity of 
 tliem, ill exchange for iron. Before the Captain re* 
 turned on board, he vifited the leveral places where he 
 had fown melon and cucumber feeds ; but found, to his 
 great regret, that moft of them had been deftroyed by 
 vermin ; though fome pine-apple plants, wliich he had 
 alfo left, were in a thriving condition. 
 
 On Friday the 6th, at noon, Feenou arrived from 
 Vavaoo, and informed us, that feveral canoes, laden 
 with hogs and other provifions, had failed with him 
 from that ifland, but had been loft in the late tempef- 
 tuous weather, and every perfon on board of them had 
 periOied. This mehmcholy tale did not gain much 
 credit with us, as we were by this time fufficiently ac- 
 quainted with the chara<Eler of the relater. The truth) 
 perhaps, was, that he h&d been unable to procure at 
 Vavaoo the expe6ted fupplies ; or, if he had obtained 
 any there, that he had left them su: Hapaee, which lay 
 in his way back, and vrhere he muH; have heard tha^ 
 Poulaho had come to vifit us ; who, ther^re, he knew^ 
 would, as his faperior, reap all the merit and reward of 
 procuring tbefe ittpplifis> wiithwt having had any par- 
 ticipation 
 
 n 
 
S6 
 
 A VOYAGE Td TttE 
 
 tlcipation of the trouble. On the fucceeding mom* 
 ing, Poulaho, and feme other chiefs, arrived ; at which 
 time Captain Cook happened to be afhore with Fec- 
 noii, who now appeared to be fenlible of the impro- 
 priety of his condud^, in arrogating a charaiS^er to 
 which he had no iuft claim : fo! he not only acknow- 
 ledged Poulaho as fovereign of Tongataboo and the ad- 
 jacent ifles, but aftedUd to infift much on it. The 
 Captain left him, and went to pay a vifit to the King, 
 Mfhom he found fitting with- a few of the natives before 
 him ; but great numbers hailening to pay their refpe£ls 
 to him, the circle increafed very faft. When FeenoH 
 approached, he placed himfelf amrng the red tliat fat 
 before Poulaho, as attendants on his Majefty. He 
 at firfl: ieemed to be fomewhat con fu fed and abaihed ; 
 I but foon recovered from his agitation. Some conver- 
 
 fation pafled between thefe two chiefs, who went on 
 board with the Captain to dinner; but only Poitlaho 
 fat at table. Feenou, after having made his obeifancc 
 in the ufual mode, by fainting the foot of his fovereign 
 with his head and hands, retired from: the cabin ; and 
 it now appeared, that he could neither eat nor drink in 
 the King's prefence. 
 
 ' On the 8th, we weighed anchor, and fleered for 
 Tongataboo, with a gentle breeze at north-eaft.* We 
 were accompanied by fourteen or fifteen failing veilels 
 belonging to the iilanders, every one of which outran 
 the fhips. At five in the afternoon we defcried two 
 fmall iflands, at the diflance of four leagues to the 
 weflward; one was called Hoonga Hapaee, and the 
 other Hoonga Tonga. They are fituated in the lati- 
 tude of 20** j6* fouth, about ten leagues from the wef- 
 tern point ot Annamooka* We flill proceeded on a 
 fouth-wefl-courfe, and on the 9th faw feveral little 
 iflands, beyond which Eooa and Tongataboo appeared. 
 We had at* this time twenty-five fathoms water, the 
 bottom confifiing of broken coral and fand ; and the 
 . depth gradually decreafed, as we approached the above- 
 mentionod fmall ifles. Steering, by the direction of 
 our pilots^ for the widefl fpace between 1! ife ifles, we 
 
 were 
 
PACIFIC O C E A K* ^7 
 
 were infenfibly drawn vpon a large flat^ on which lay 
 ininimerable rocks of coraly below tke furface of the 
 fea. Notwithftanding our utmofl care and attention 
 to avoid khefe rocks> we were unable to prevent the 
 iliip from ftrlking on one of them ; nor did the Difco- 
 very, though behind us, keep clear of them. It for- 
 tunatelv happened, that neither of the fhips ftuck faft, 
 nor fuitained any damage. We ft ill continued our 
 courfe, and the moment we found a place where we 
 could anchor with any degree of fafety, we came ta, 
 and the Mafters were difpached with the boats to found. 
 Soon after we hadcaft anchor, feveral of the natives 
 of Tongatahoo came to us in their canoes ; and they, 
 as weir as our pilots, afll ed us that we ihould meet 
 with deep water farther in, free from rocks. Their 
 intelligence was true; for about four o'clock the boats 
 made a fj^nal of having found good anchoring ground : 
 we therefore weighed, and ftood in till dark, when we 
 anchored in nine fathoms water, with a clear fandy 
 bottom. During the night we had fome rain ; but 
 early in the morning the wind becomine; foutherly, 
 and bringing on fair weather, we weighed again, and 
 worked towards the fhore of Tongataboo. While we 
 were plying up to the harbour, the King continued 
 failing round in his canoe, and at the fame time there 
 was a great number of fmall canoes about the ihips. 
 Two ot thefe not getting out of the way of his royal 
 vefTel, he ran quite over them with the greatefl un- 
 concern. 
 
 We arrived at our Intended ftation about two o*cIock 
 in the afternoon of the loth of June. It was a very 
 convenient place, formed by the fhore of Tongataboo 
 on the fouth^aft, and two little ifles on the eaft and 
 north-eafl. Here both our fhips anchored over a fan- 
 dy bottom, where the depth of water was ten fathmns* 
 Our diflance from the fhore exceeded a quarter of a 
 mile. 
 
 We had not been long at anchor ofF Tongataboo, 
 when Captain Cook landed on the ifland, accompanied 
 by fome of the officers and Omai. They found the 
 
 King 
 I 
 
ss 
 
 A 
 
 VOYAGE TO ¥hE 
 
 King waiting for them on the beach, who condudled 
 them to a Imall neat houfe near the woods, with an 
 exf '^nfive area before it, and told the Captain, that it 
 was at his fervice during his contimiance in the iiland. 
 Before they had been long in the houfe, a large circle 
 of the natives afiembled before them, and feated them- 
 fdlves upon the area. Mean while, a baked ho^, and 
 a quantity of baked yams, were produced and divided 
 into portions, which were diftributed according to the 
 King^s orders. ^^ 
 
 Captain Cook, before he returned on board, went in 
 fearch of a watering place, and wa.§ conducted to fome 
 ponds, in one of which the water was tolerable, but it 
 waji at fome diilance inland. Being informed that the 
 fmali iiland of Pangimodoo, near which the /hips were 
 Rationed, could better fupply this, important article^ 
 he went over to it the next morning, and found there 
 SL pool containing freiher water than any he had met 
 with among thefe iilaods. This pool being extremely 
 dirty, he caufed it to be cleaned ; and liere it was that 
 we filled our water cafks. The fame morning a tent 
 was pitched near the houfe which tlie King had afTign- 
 ed for our ufc. The horfes, cattle, and fheep were then 
 landed, and a party of marines Rationed there as a 
 guard. The oblervatory was fet up at an inconfidera- 
 ble diflance from the other tent ; and Mr. King took 
 up his refidence on (hore, to diredk the obfervations, 
 and fuperintend all other neceflary buAnefs. A party- 
 was occupied in cutting wood for fuel, and planks for 
 the fhips ; and the gunners were appointed to conduiSl: 
 the traffic with the inhabitants, who fiock^-d from all 
 paits of the ifland with hogs^ yams, cocoa nuts, nmX 
 other articles, infbmuch, that our land ilation relem- 
 bled a fair, and our (hips were remarkably crowded with 
 vifitants. Feenou reftding in our neighbourhood, we 
 had daily proofs of his opulence and generotity, by 
 the continuance of his valuable donations. Poujaho 
 was equally attentive to its in this refpe^t, as fcarcely 
 a day pafied wrthont hk favouring us with confidera^ 
 ^k pr^feOti* We were uow infermed, tlittt a perfon 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 2§ 
 
 (xf the name of Mareewagee was of .very high rank in 
 tlie ifland, and was Tuperior to Poulaho himielf : but 
 that, being advanced in years, he lived in retirement ; 
 however, on Friday tlie 13th, about twelve o'clock, 
 Mareewagee came within a i'mall difiance ^f our poll 
 on Ihore, attended by a great number of peopfce of nil 
 ranks. In the courfe of the afternoon, the two Cap- 
 tains, and others of our gentlemen, aqcompauied by 
 Feenou, went afliore to vifit him. They found aper- 
 fon fittijig under a trea, with a piece of x:loth, a^ut 
 forty yards long, fpread before him, round which H,ura* 
 bers of people were leated. They imagined that ,tl^if 
 was the great perfonage, but were undecf ived by F^^ 
 nou, who informed them tliat another, w|>o was fitik^ 
 on a piece of mat, was Mareewagee. ,. » fj? 
 
 Captain Cook not expe6ting on this occafion to meet 
 with two chiefs, had brought on fliore a prefent for 
 one only : this, therefore, he was obliged to xlivid^ be* 
 tween them ; but, as it happened to be coufiderable^ 
 both of them apjjeared to be fatisfied. Oar party now 
 entertained them about an hour with the performance 
 of two French horns and a drum ; but the firing off 3 
 piilol that Captain Clerke had in his pocket feemed to 
 pleal'e them moft. Before our gentlemen took their 
 leave of the two chiefs, the large piece of cloth was 
 rolled up and prefented to Captain Cook, together 
 with a few cocoa nuts. The next morning, Old Too- 
 bou came on board to return the Commodore's vifit ; 
 he alfo vilited Captam Clerke; and if our former pre* 
 fent was not fufficiently confiderable, tlie deficiency 
 was now fupplied. In the mean time, Mareewaget 
 went to fe** our people who were ftationed on fhore ; 
 and Mr. King fliewed him whatever we had there. He 
 was Arock with adnoiration at the fight of the cattle I 
 and the crofa-rcut daw rivetted his attention. TowArd« 
 noon, Poulaho came on hoiird, bringing with him hif 
 fon, who was about twelve years of age. He dined 
 with Captain Cook; but the fon, though prefent, was 
 not permitted to fit down with him. The King was 
 foon reconciled to our cookery, and was fond of ouv 
 
 wine. 
 
- * 
 
 90 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 wine. He now refided at the malaee near our ten^ 
 where he this evening entertained our people with a 
 dariee^ in which he himfelf, though ib corpulent and 
 unwieldy, engaged, • 
 
 On the iflh, Captain Cook received a meflhge from 
 Old Toobou, importing, that he was defirous of feeing 
 him on fliore. He and Omai accordingly waited on 
 thatchref, who they found fitting, like one of this an- 
 cient patriarchs, under the fhade of a tree, with a 
 large piece of cloth, the martufa(5ture of the ifland, 
 fpreaMi out befiire him. He defired them to place them- 
 felves by him; after which he lold Omai, that the 
 ctoth, with fome cocoa nuts and red feathers, confti- 
 taled bis prefent to Captain Cook. 
 
 In the mean time, Mr. * Anderfon, with feveral 
 others, made an excurfion into the country, which 
 furnifhed him with obrervations to the follow "*ng ef- 
 fedk. Weftward of the tent, the country for about 
 two miles is entirely uncultivated, though covered 
 with trees ajid buflies growing naturally with the 
 greateft vigour. Beyond this, a pretty large plain ex- 
 tends itfelf, on which are cocoa trees, and fome fmall 
 plantations. Near tlie creek, w\ich runs weft of the 
 tent, tlie land is perfectly flat, and partly, overflowed 
 iBvery tide by the fea. 
 
 - The following day, which was the 1 7th, was fixed 
 upon by Mareewagee for giving a grand haiva, or en- 
 tertainment, at which we were all invited to attends 
 Before the temporary hut of this chief, near our land 
 ftation, a large fpace had been cleared for that purpofe* 
 In the morning, vaft numbers of the natives came in 
 from the country, every one of whom bore on his 
 (houlder a long pole, at each end of which a yam was 
 fufpended. Theie poles and yams being depofited on 
 each fide of the open fpace, or area, formed two large 
 hdaps, decorated with fmall iifh of different LijkIs. 
 They were Mareewagee's prefent to the Captains 
 Cook and Clerkc. The neceflary preparations being 
 made, the iflanders began, about eleven o'clock, to 
 ^i^ibit various dances, which they call maL The 
 . V -^i band 
 
 band ( 
 chorus 
 tluit w 
 femble 
 
 The 
 in the 
 thin w 
 lembiii 
 inflruti 
 diflTerei 
 ground 
 at the 
 iide in 
 quickn 
 tiiem a 
 other 
 How at 
 minute 
 retreat< 
 cular fi 
 retiring 
 time, 
 were fc 
 here on 
 
 The! 
 till neai 
 as fpedl 
 trading 
 ed to ai 
 quarter 
 
 Intl 
 or nigl 
 dwellin 
 hours ; 
 perforn 
 
 Tho 
 with Im 
 pedled, 
 prevent 
 '*aring 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 9J 
 
 band of muCc at firft confided of fcventy mefi as a 
 chorus, amidfl whom were placed three inftruments 
 tlmt we called drums, though they did act much re- 
 femble them. 
 
 There were four ranks, of twenty-four men each, 
 in the firft dance. Thefe held in their hands a fmall 
 thin wooden inftrument, about two feet in length, re- 
 lembling in its fhape an oblong paddle. With th^fe 
 inllruments, which they call pagge, they made mstny 
 di^erent motions ; fuch as pointing them towards the 
 ground on one fide, and inclining their bodies that Way 
 at the fame inflant ; then ihlfting them to the o|>pofitc . 
 fide in the fame manner; pamng them with gre;ii;^'> 
 quicknefs from one hand to the other, and twirUo&^ 
 them about with remarkable dexterity ; with various 
 other manoeuvres. A much quicker dance,- though 
 How at firft, was then begun, and they fung for ten 
 minutes, when the whole body, in a two-fold divifion, 
 retreated, and then advanced, forming a k' "id of cir- 
 cular figure, which concluded the dance; the chorus 
 retiring, and the drums being removed at the fame 
 time. Three otlier dances fucceeded this : but they 
 were fo nearly like that already defcribed, tliat I ftiall 
 here omit any defcription of them. 
 
 Thefe amufements continued from eleven o'clock 
 till near three. The number of iflanders who attended 
 as fpedlators, together with thofe who were round the 
 trading place at the tent, or ftraggling about, amount- 
 ed to at leaft ten thoufand, all within the compafs of a 
 quarter of a mile. 
 
 In the evening we were entertained with the bomaif 
 or night dances, on a large area before the temporary 
 dwelling place of Feenou. They continued three 
 hours; during which time about twelve of them were 
 performed, nearly the fame as thofe at Hapaee.'f . *•'• 
 
 Though the whole entertainment was condu^|e(l. 
 with better order than coiild reafbnably have been «x« 
 pe<5led, yet our utmoft care and attention could not 
 prevent our being plundered by the natives in the moil 
 <*aring and iofoleut manner. There was fcarcely any 
 
 thing 
 
 I 
 
92 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 thing which they dkl «©t endeavour to fleal. They 
 once^ in the middle of tlie day, attempted to take an 
 anchor from off tlie Difcovery's bows, but without ef- 
 fe<5l. The only violence of which they were guilty, 
 was tlielw;eaking the fliouider bone of one of our goats, 
 m conlequence of wMch flie died foon after. 
 
 On Wednefday the i8th. Captain Cook bellowed 
 fome prefents on Mareewagee, in return for thofe 
 which had been received from that chief the preceding 
 day ; and as the entertainments then exhibited called 
 upon us- tO;f9iake fome exhibition in return, he or- 
 dered all the marines to go through their exercife, 
 on the fpot where the late dances had been performed ; 
 and in the evening fome fireworks were alfo played off 
 at the fame place. The King, the principal chiefs, 
 and a vaft multitude of peqple, were prefent. The 
 platoon firing feemed to pleafe them; but^ \ hen they 
 beheld our water rockets, they were filled with ailo* 
 nifhment and admiration. 
 
 While the natives were in expe6lation of this even- 
 ing exhibition, they engaged, for the greateft part of 
 the afternoon, in wreilling and boxing. They pre- 
 ierve great temper in thefe exercifes, and leave the fpot 
 without the leaft difpleafure in their countenances. 
 Not Only boys engage in both thefe exercifes ; but it 
 not unfrequently happens, that little girls box with 
 great obftinacy. On all thefe occafions, they do not 
 coafider it as a-ny difgrace to be overcome, and the 
 vanqiiiilied perfon fits down with as much indifference 
 as if he had never engaged. Some of our people c^..- 
 teii^led with theift in both exercifes, but were generally 
 WQrfte^. 
 
 Captain Cook intending to leave behind hhn fome of 
 the amma«s he had brought, thought proper to make 
 a diffributton of them before his departure. He, therer 
 for^, on the XQth, affembled the chiefs before our houfe, 
 and marked out his intended prefents to them. To 
 the King he g?ve a bull and a cow ; to Mareewagee, a 
 Cape ram and two ewes ; and to Fcenou, a horfe and 
 a mare. He it^ftruded Omui to tell theui> that no 
 
 fwch 
 
 
 Tuch ani 
 illand; 
 of trouh 
 they ouj 
 they ha< 
 they anc 
 had rece 
 Some 
 an excu 
 turned t 
 -t^f two 
 ceflary 
 articles 
 which tl 
 in the cc 
 tain did 
 cles take 
 returned^ 
 one mufl 
 this tim^ 
 ters that 
 Byth 
 repaired 
 produce 
 was to ] 
 mined t 
 ferving i 
 OnN 
 Anderfo 
 houfe, vs 
 lUho, at 
 wa5 kil 
 upon til 
 off, wit 
 and the 
 ilrumen 
 preparec 
 the hot 
 the fize 
 by kim 
 
TACIFIC OCEAir, ^f 
 
 Tuch animals exifted within feveral month > f:nl oF their 
 illand; that we had biO ght thciii, ^ :;h a great degree 
 ©t' trouble and expence, for their lile ; that, theictore, 
 they ought to be careFul nut to kill any of them till 
 they had multiplied conliuerably ; and, finally, that 
 they and their poileiity ought to remember, that they 
 had received them from the natives of Britain. 
 
 Some of the officers of both fhips, who had made 
 an excurfion into the interior parts of the iflai^, re- 
 turned the 22dof Junein tlie evening, after anahjence 
 -^Df two days They had taken their mufkets and ne- 
 ceflary am nunition with them, befides i'everal fmall 
 articles of the favourite commodities; the whole of 
 which the natives had the dexterity to fteal from them 
 in the courfe of their ihort journey. Though the Gap- 
 tain did not afterwards endeavour to recover the arti- 
 cles taken upon this occafion, the whole of them were 
 returned, through the interposition of f'eenou, except 
 one mufket, and a few other iniignificant articles. By 
 this time, alfo, we recovered the tools and other mat- 
 ters that had been ftolen from our workmen. 
 
 By the 25th of June we had recruited our fliips and 
 repaired our fails, and had little more to expedV of the 
 produce of the illand: but, as an eclipfe of the fun 
 was to happen- on the 5th of July^ the Captain deter- 
 mined to flay till that time, to have a ch,anqB of ob- 
 serving it. ' ' ^ ' 
 
 On Monday the 30th of June, Mr. King and Mr. 
 Anderfon, accompanied Futtafaihe as vifitors to his 
 houfe, which is not far from that of his brother Po\i»^ 
 laho, at Mooa. Soon after they arrived, a large ho^ 
 wa5 killed, which was efteiSled by repeated llrokes' 
 upon the head. 'I'he hair was then du roufly fcraped* 
 off, with the fliarp edge of pieces of' fplit bamboo, 
 and the entrails taken out by the fame iliarp in-», 
 rtrument. Previous to this, an oven had beert 
 prepared, which is a large hole diig in the eartH^ 
 the bottom of which is- corered with llones, about? 
 the frze of a man's fill, which are rqade red -HtJl? 
 by kindling a fire over them^ th^ they' wraptAip 
 
 fome 
 
 J! 
 
 il 
 
^ A VOYACrE TO THE 
 
 fome of thefe flones in leaves of the bread-fruit trep, 
 witli which they filled the hog's belly; fluffing in a 
 quantity of leaves to prevent their falling out, and 
 thrufling a plug of the fame kind in the anus. This 
 being done, the carcafe was placed upon fome flicks 
 laid acrofs the flones, and covered with plantain leaves. 
 The earth was afterwards dug up all round, and tlie 
 oven being thus effedlually doled, the operation of 
 baking required no farther aid. 
 
 On their retura to Futtafaihe's houfe, the baked 
 hoe was produced^ accompanied with fome cocoa nuts, 
 and feveral bafkets of baked yams. The perfon who 
 prepared the hog In die morning, now cut it up in a 
 very maflerly manner, with a knife made of fplit bam- 
 boo. Though the weight of it was at leafl fifty pounds, 
 the whole was placed before them, when they took a 
 fmall part, and defired the red might be partaken of 
 by the people fitting round. 
 
 • They were entertained in the evening with a pig 
 for fupper, drefled like the hog, and like that, accom- 
 panied with yams mid cocoa nuts. When the fupper 
 was over, a large quantity of cloth was brought for 
 them to (leep in; but they were diilurbed in their 
 repofe by a fmgular inflance of luxury, in which their 
 men of confequence indulge themfelves ; that of being 
 thumped or beat while they are alleep. Two women 
 who fat by Futtafaihcj pertormed tliis operation, which 
 they call tooge tooge, by finking his body and legs, 
 with both nfls till he fell afleep, and, with fome 
 intervals, continued it the whole night. The perfon 
 being fafl afleep, they abate a little of the flrength 
 and brifknefs of the beating ; but if they obferve any 
 appearance; of his awaking, they refume it. In thie 
 morning they were informed, that Futtafaihe's women 
 relieved eacn other and went alternately to ileep. 
 Such a' pra(£lice as this, in any other country, would 
 ke fuppofed to be deflrudlive of all refl; but here it 
 operates like ao opiate, and flrongly^fhews wh^t hab^ 
 may eSc^^ 
 
 Gaptaici Q)ok,had j^roionged his flay at this ifland 
 
 on 
 
 f n acGo 
 at this 
 fome ac 
 dererd \ 
 before t 
 fore got 
 animals 
 main, 
 and hei 
 and wif 
 ferved t 
 
 Wet 
 the fliip 
 favoural 
 The Kii 
 notice o: 
 made hi 
 ware. 
 
 In th 
 of the ( 
 ihowers 
 at fmall 
 tally obi 
 The fun 
 die of th 
 mainder 
 the end. 
 
 The i 
 ments, a 
 of the I 
 fheepall 
 them to 
 henflve, 
 probably 
 
 Mr. J 
 twenty . 
 fifl of c< 
 beautifu 
 &c. T 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 95 
 
 •n account of the approaching ecHpfe; hut on lookinc^ 
 at thi3 micrometer (on the 2d of July) he found 
 fome accident had happened to it, and that it was ren- 
 dererd ufelefs till repaired; which could not he dons 
 before the time it was intended to he ufed. We there- 
 fore got on board, this day, all the cattle and other 
 animals, except thofe that were deilined to re- 
 main. The Captain defigned to have lef; a tud;ey cocl^ 
 and hen ; but two hens being deflroyed by accident, 
 and wifhing to carry the breed to Otaheite, he re- ' 
 ferved the only remaining pair for that purpofe. 
 
 We took up our anchor the next day, and moved 
 the fliips behind Pangemodoo, to be ready for the firft * 
 favourable wind to take us through the Narrows. 
 The King, who this day dined with'us, took particular 
 notice of the plates ; which the Commodore obferving, 
 made him an offer of one, either of pewter or of earthen 
 ware. 
 
 . In the morning of Saturday the 5th of July, the day 
 of the eclipfe, the weather was cloudy, with fome 
 ihowers of rain. About nine o'clock, the fun broke out 
 at fmall intervals for about half an hour, hut was to- 
 tally obfcured juft before the beginning of the eclipfe. 
 The fun again appeared at intervals till about the mid- 
 dle of the eclipfe; but was fc ;n no more during the re- 
 mainder of the day, lb that we could not obferve 
 the end. . 
 
 The eclipfe being over, we packed up the inftni- 
 ments, and every thing was conveyed on board. None 
 of the natives having takea af^ care of the three 
 fheep allotted to Mareewagee, the Commodore ordered 
 them to be carried back to the Aiips. He was apprer 
 henflve, that if they had been left there, they would 
 probably be deflroyed by dogs. 
 
 Mr. Anderfon informs us, that Amflerdam is about 
 tfwenty leagues in circumference, and the fhores con- 
 fifl of coral rocks. The face of the country a^peafs 
 beautiful, and produces plenty of yams, cocoa nuts, 
 &c. There are no quadrUpedes but ho^^s, dogs, and 
 
 . . rats. 
 
 '1% 
 
 4v 
 
^6 A t O Y A tf E t T nZ 
 
 rats. They have various forts of birds, and the i«s 
 abounds with filli. 
 
 Though we >vere now ready to fail, we had not 
 fufficient daylight to turn through the Narrows, the 
 the morning flood falling early, and the evening flood 
 late. We were therefore under the neceffity of wait- 
 ing two or three days, unlefs we fliould be fortunate 
 enough to have a leading wind. 
 
 However, we weighed' anchor on the lorh about 
 eight o'clock in the morning, and, with a fleady gale, 
 turned through the channel, between the fmall ides 
 called Makkaha and Monooafai. The flood, at firft, 
 fet flrrong in our favour, till leading up to the Uigoony 
 where the eaftward flood meets that from the well. 
 This, with the in\draught of the ingoon, and of the 
 flioals before it, odcafions flrong riplings and whirl- 
 pools. Befides thefe \lifadvantages, the depth of the 
 channel exceeds the length of a cable, confcquently 
 there can be no anchorage, except clofe to the rocks, 
 in forty and forty-five fathoms water, where a fhip 
 would be expofed to the whirlpools. We plied to the 
 windward, between the two tides, till it was near high 
 water, without either gaining or lofing an inch, when 
 we fuddenly got into the influence of the eafl:ern tide, 
 Convi'-iced that we could not get to fea before it was 
 dark, we anchored under the ihore of Tongataboo, in 
 forty -five fathom? water. The Difcovery dropped 
 anchor under our ftern, but drove off" the bank before 
 the anchor took hold, and did not recover it till mid- 
 night. : ^ 
 
 ' After remaining in this flration till eleven o'clock 
 the next day, we weighed artd plied to the .eaflward; 
 Ax ten o*tl6ckr we weathered the eufl^ end bf the ifland; 
 and ftretched away for Nliddleburg, or Epda (as the 
 inhabitants call it) where we anchored abbut eight in 
 the ii^crtiing, in forty fathoms water; Being nearly 
 the fame place where' the Captain took His fStion iii 
 1773, when he named it Efiglifh Rotidi '. * 
 
 ^ As foon as- We had anclKJtedi T:toofa the^diifcf, ani 
 f<?reral of the natives, vifited us on board, and feemed 
 
 rt^ioiced 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 97 
 
 rejoiced at our arrival. The Captain accompanied 
 him on fhore in fearch of frefh water, the procuring 
 of which was the chief objedt that brought him to 
 Eooa. He had heard at 1 ongataboo of a ilream hero 
 which ran from the hills into the Tea ; but this was not 
 the cafe at prefent. He was conducted to a brackiih 
 fpring among rocks, between low and high-water 
 mark. When they perceived that we did not approve 
 of this, we were inewn a little way into the ifland, 
 where, in a deep chafm, we found fome excellent water ; 
 which though attended with fome trouble, might be 
 conveyed to the fhore by means of fpouts or troughs, 
 that might be provided for that purpofe : but rather 
 than undertake that tedibus tafk, the Captain cont^inted 
 himfelf with the fupply the Ihips had received at Ton- 
 gataboo. 
 
 At this ifland we landed the ram and two ewes, of 
 the Cape of Good Plope breed, and committed thera to 
 the curp of Taoofii, who feemed delighted with his 
 charge. 
 
 While we were lying at anchor, this ifland had a 
 very different afpec^ from any that we had lately feen, 
 and formed a moil pleafing landfcape. It is the higheft; 
 of any we had feen ilnce we had left New Zealand, and 
 from its top, which appears to be almoft flat, de* 
 clines gradually towards the fea. The other ifles, 
 which form this clufter, being level, the eye cannot 
 difcover any thing except the trees that cover them; 
 but here the land rifmg gently upwards, prefents .in 
 exteniive profpetfl, where groves of trees, in beautiful 
 diforder, are interfperfed at irregular diflancfes. Near 
 the fhore it is quite fhaded with a variety of trees, 
 among which are eredled the habitations of the natives, 
 and to the right of where we were flationed, was one 
 of the mofl exteniive groves of cocoa palms that w« 
 had ever feen. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 1 3th, a party of us afcertded 
 the higheft part of the ifland, a little to the right of 
 our fhips, to have a perfe6l view of the country. 
 Having advanced about half way up, wc croiTei a 
 
 F dct^ 
 
 I 
 
 ■"i 
 
 It 
 
 ■-:': 
 
98 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 deep valley, the bottom and ficles of which were clothed 
 with trees. We found plenty of coral till we approached 
 the fummits of the liigheft hills; the foil near the top 
 is in general a reddifh clay, which in many places is 
 very deep. On the moll elevated part of the ifland 
 ^e faw a round platform fupported by a wall of coral 
 ilones. Our condu6lors informed us, that this mount 
 had been raifed by the direction of their chief and that 
 they met there occafionally to drink kava* At a fmall 
 diftance from it was a fpring of moft excellent water; 
 and about a mile lower down, a ftream, wh"\:h we 
 were told, ran into the fea when the rains were co- 
 pious. 
 
 From this elevation we had a complete view of the 
 whole ifland, except a fmall part to the fouth. The 
 fouth-eafl fide, from which the hills we were now 
 upon are not f:;r diflant, riles with great inequalities, 
 immediately from the fea; fo that the plains and mea- 
 dows lie all on the north- weft fide; which being 
 adorned with tufts of trees, intermixed with planta- 
 tions, form a moft delightful landfcape in every point 
 of view. While Captain Cook was furveying this 
 enchanting profpeiSl, he enjoyed the pleafing idea, that 
 fome future navigators might, from that eminence, be- 
 hold thefe meadows ftocked with cattle, brought by 
 the ftiips of England ; and that the completion of this 
 fmgle benevolent purpofe, exclufive of all other con- 
 fiderations, would fufficiently prove that our voyages 
 had not been ufelefs. 
 
 Captain Cook the next morning planted a pine appie, 
 and fowed the feeds of melons and other articles, in 
 the chief s plantation. He had reafon, indeed, to fup- 
 pofe, that his endeavours of this kind would not be 
 fruitlefs ; for a difti of turnips was this day ferved up 
 at his dinner, which was the produce of the feeds he 
 bad left here in 1773. 
 
 The Captain having fixed upon the 15th for fail- 
 
 hig, Taoofa prefled liim to ftay a little longer, in order 
 
 to receive a prefcnt which he had prepared for hira, and 
 
 his entreaties iiiduced him to defer his departure. 
 
 * ^ The 
 
 dift'( 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 99 
 
 The next day he received from the chief the prefent; 
 conlifling ot two little heaps of yams, and a quan- 
 tity of fruit, which feemed to be coliedled as at the 
 other ifles. 
 
 Captain Cook then returned on board, in company 
 with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho*s fervants, by wliom 
 he lent a piece of bar iron, as a parting mark of his 
 efteem for that chief, that being as valuable a prefent 
 as any he could make. 
 
 We weighed foon after, and with a light breeze at 
 fouth-eaft flood out to fea, when Taoofa, and feme 
 other natives left us. We found, on heaving up the 
 anchor, that the cable had been much injured by i\\s 
 rocks. IJefides this, we experienced, that a moft aRo- 
 nifliing fvvell rolls in there from the fouth-weft. 
 
 We have now taken leave of the Friendly Iflands 
 and their inhabitants, after a cordial intercourfe with 
 the lattar for between two and three months. Some 
 differences, indeed, occafionally happened, on accouixt 
 of their natural propenfity to thieving, though i.x> 
 frequently encouraged by the negligence and inatten- 
 tion of our people, Thefe differences, however, were 
 never attended with any fatal confequences ; and 
 few belonging to our ihips parted from their friends 
 without lome regret. The time we continued here 
 was not thrown away ; and as we, in a great mea- 
 fure, fubfifted upon the produce of the iflands, we ex- 
 pended very little of our fea provifions. W'e carried 
 with us a lufficient quantity of refreihments to fupply 
 us till our arrival at another ftation, where we could 
 again recruit. The Commodore rejoiced at having 
 Jiad an opportunitv, of ferving thefe poor people, by 
 leaving lome ufetul animals among them ; and that 
 thoie intended for Otaheite had acquired frefh ffrength 
 in the paftures of Tongataboo. I'he advantages we 
 received by touching here were great; and they were 
 received without retarding the profecution of our 
 great obje6t: ; the feafon for proceeding to the North 
 being lofl before we formed the refolution of <vifiting 
 thelo ii]a.i>d$. 
 
 V Z We 
 
 '■] 
 
100 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 We muft include under the denomination of Friendly 
 IHands, not only the group at Hapaee, but alio thole 
 which have been difcoveied to the north, nearly under 
 the fame meridian, as well as fome others undt-r tlic 
 dominion of Tongataboo, which is the capital, and 
 feat of government. 
 
 From the beft information we could receive, this 
 archipelago is very cxtenfive. One of the natives enu- 
 merated one hundred and iifty illands; and Mr. An- 
 ^erfon procured all their names. 
 
 But the moft confiderable i Hands that we heard 
 of in this neighbourhood, are Hamoa, \'avaoo, and 
 I-'eejee; each of which is larger than Tongataboo; l)ut 
 it does not appear that any European has ever yet iccii 
 any one of them. 
 
 Hamoa lies tw< lays fail north-weft from Va- 
 vaoo. It is faid to oe the largeft of all their iflands; 
 atFords harbours and good water, and produces in 
 abundance all the aiticles of refrefhment that are 
 found at the places we vifited. Poulaho frequently 
 refides upon this ifland; and the people here are in 
 high eftimation at Tongataboo. 
 
 Feejee lies about three days fail from Tongataboo, 
 It abounds with hogs, dogs, fowls, and fuch fruits and 
 roots as are to be found in any others, and is much 
 larger than Tongataboo; but not fubje6b to its do- 
 minion, as the other iflands of this archipelago are. 
 
 The colour of the natives of Feejee was at leaft a 
 fhade darker than that of the inhabitants of the other 
 Friendly Iflands. We faw one of the natives of 
 Feejee, who had his left ear flit, and the lobe fo 
 flretched, that it almoft extended to his fhoulder; 
 which Angularity had been obferved by Captain Cook 
 at other iflands of the South Sea, during his fecond 
 voyage. The Feejee men were much reverenced here; 
 not only on account of their power and cruelty in war, 
 but alfo for their ingenuity; for they greatly excel the 
 • inhabitants of Tongataboo in workmanfhip. Speci- 
 mens were (hewn us of their clubs and fpears, which 
 were ingenioufly carved. We were alfo (hewn fome of 
 
 their 
 
1»AC1FIC OCEAN* 
 
 101 
 
 their beautifully chequered cloth, variegated mats, ear- 
 then pots, and other articles, all of which difplayed a 
 luperiority in the execution. 
 
 The harbour and anchoring place of Tongatahoo 
 is fuperior to any we have met with among theft 
 iflands, as well from its great fecurity, as its capa- 
 city and goodnefs of bottom. The rifk we ran in 
 entering it fiom the north, fhould caution rvery future 
 commander from attempting that paiTage again, efpe- 
 cially with a ihip of burden, fmce that, by which 
 we left it, may be piirfued with greater eafe and fafety. 
 
 Though the harbour of Tongataboo has the prefe- 
 rence, its water is exceeded in goodnefs by that at 
 Annamooka ; and yet tliis cannot be reckoned good. 
 1'olerable water may, neveithelcfs, be procured by 
 digging holes near the fide of the pond : befides, An- 
 namooka being nearly in the centre of the group, is 
 the bell fituatcd for procuring refreAiments from ths 
 others. There is a creek in the reef on the north 
 fide of the ifland, wherein two or three ihips may lie 
 fecurely. 
 
 After living among them between two and three 
 months, it is reafonable to expedl, that we ihould 
 be able to clear up every difficulty, and to give a 
 tolerably good account of their manners, cuftoms, and 
 inilitutions, civil as well as religious; particularly as 
 we had a perfon with us, who, by underftanding their 
 language as well as ours, might be enabled to a6l as 
 an interpreter, jiut Omai was not qualiEed for that 
 taik. 
 
 The Friendly Iflanders feldom exceed the common 
 ftature (though fome here were above fix feet in 
 height) and are ftrong and well proportioned. Their 
 fhoulders are in general broad; and we faw feveral 
 who were really handfome, though their mufcular dif- 
 poiition rather conveyed the idea of ftrength than of 
 beauty. Their features are fo various, that unlefs it 
 be by a fulnefs at the point of the nofe, which is com- 
 mon, it is impoilible to fix any general likenefs by 
 which to chara6leri2e them. On the other hand, 
 
 F 3 many 
 
 '^i 
 
102 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 many genuine Roman nofes, and hundreds of Euro- 
 pean faces were feen among them* They have good 
 eyes and teeth; but the latter are neither fo well let, 
 nor fo remarkably white, as among the Indian nations. 
 Pew of them, however, have that uncommon thick- 
 tiefs about the lips, fo frequent in other iflands. 
 
 The women are lefs diftinguifhed from the men 
 l>y their features, than by their general form, which 
 feems deftiftute of that ftrong flefhy firmnefs that ap- 
 pears in the latter. Though the features of fome are 
 very delicate, and a true index of their fex, laying 
 claim to a confiderable fhare of beauty and expreffeon, 
 yet the rule is not by any means fo general as in 
 many other countries. This is generally, however, the 
 meft exceptionable part, for the bodies of mofl of the 
 females are ufualty well proportioned, and fome are 
 abfolutely perfect models of a beautiful figure. But 
 th» extraordinary fmallnefs and delicacy of their 
 fingers, which may b^ put in competition with any 
 m Europe, feems to be the mofl remarkable diiliniSlion 
 in the women. 
 
 Few nattiral defe6ts or deformities are to be feen 
 among them; though we obferved two or three with 
 their feet bent inwards. Neither are they exempt froni 
 fome difeafes. 
 
 Their ftrength and activity are, in every refpecS):, an-^ 
 fwerable to their mufcular appearance ; and they exert 
 both in fueh a manner as to prove, that they are as 
 yet, little debilitated by the numerous difeales that are 
 the natural confequence of indolence. 
 ' The mildnefs or good nature which they abundantly 
 poiFefs" is depi^ed on their countenances, which are to- 
 tally free from that favage keennefs which always 
 marks the nations that are in a barbarous flatc. 
 
 Their pacific difpofition is thoroughly evinced, from 
 their friendly reception of Itrangers. Inftead of at- 
 thckiitg them openly, or clandeftinely, they have never 
 appwed^ In the fmalleft degree, hoftile; but, like the 
 HiDfl civilized nations, have even co^irted an inter- 
 Coiitfe with their vifitors, by bwtering ; a medium which 
 ^•» •■ \UTites 
 
 unites a 
 do the) 
 they ha 
 the nei 
 that th 
 No nat 
 traffic, 
 perm it t 
 the fan 
 came t^ 
 mr.de ' 
 feem, i 
 cellent 
 
 A pi 
 to full^ 
 both fl 
 gree. 
 ceptior 
 reipedt 
 other, 
 other < 
 viduals 
 on. th< 
 for the 
 overpo 
 ooje6b 
 
 The 
 and fl 
 Then 
 tlie m^ 
 or pur 
 firft o 
 plaiile 
 by the 
 tice. : 
 the ef 
 
 Th 
 piece 
 and t\ 
 and> 
 
3 PACIFIC OCE AN. 
 
 103 
 
 ii 
 
 unites all nations in a degree of friendifhip. So perfe<SlIy 
 do they underftand barter, : that, at fir It, we fuppofea 
 they had acquired the knowledge of it by trading with 
 the neighbouring iflands; but it afterwards appeared, 
 that they had hardly any traffic, except with Feejee. 
 No nation, perhaps, in the world, difplayc<l, in their 
 traffic, more honefly and lefs diftruft. We fafely 
 permitted them to examine our goods, and they had 
 the fame implicit confidence in us. If either party be* 
 came diflatisfied with his bargain, a re-exchange was 
 mr.tle with mutual confent and fatisfadtion. They 
 feem, upon the whole, to poflefs many of the mofl ex- 
 cellent qualities that adorn the human mind. 
 
 A propenfity to thieving, feems to be the only defe6l 
 to fully their fair character. Thofe of all ages, and 
 both fexes, were addidted to it in an uncommon de-^ 
 gree. It fliould be confidered, however, that this ex- 
 ceptionable part of their condudl: ex i ft ed merely with 
 rei'pedl to us ; for, in tlieir general intercourfe with each 
 other, thefts are not^ perhaps, more frequent than in 
 other countries, where tae di^onefl practices of indi- 
 viduals fhould not authorize any indifcrimate cenfuro 
 on the pe<jple at large. Allowances fhould be made 
 for tlie foibles of thefe poor illanders, whofe minds we 
 overpowered with the glare of new and captivating 
 oojedls. 
 
 The hair of the(e illanders is, in general, thick, ftritight 
 and ftrong ; though fome have it bufhy or frizzled. 
 The natural colour appears to be black ; but many of 
 the men, and fome of the women, ftain it of a brown 
 or purple colour ; and a few give it an orange caft. The 
 firft of thefe colours is produced by applying a fort of 
 pluifter of burnt coral mixed with water ; the fecond, 
 by the rafpings of a reddifh wood, mixed into a poul- 
 tice, and laid over the hair ; and the third is faid to bo 
 the efledl: of turmeric root. 
 
 The drefs of both fexes is the fame ; confifbii^ of <i 
 piece of cloth or matting, about two yards in breadth, 
 and two yards and a half in length. It is double before, 
 and, like a petticoat, hangs dovm to the naiddle of the 
 
 F4 leg. 
 
 f>- 
 
 *;; 
 
104 
 
 A VOYACE TO THE 
 
 kg. That part of the garment which is above the gir- 
 dle, is plaited into feveral folds, which extended, is 
 fufHcient to draw up and wrap round the ihoiilders. 
 This, as to form, is the general drefs ; but the fine 
 matting, and long pieces of cloth, are worn only by 
 the fuoerior clafs of people. The inferior fort are con- 
 tented with ifiiall pieces, and, very often, have only a 
 covering made of leaves of plants, or the maroj a nar- 
 row piece of cloth, or matting, like a falh. They 
 pafs this between tl»e thighs and round the waift. It 
 is feldom ufed but by the men. In their hatvas^ or 
 grand entertainments, they have various drefles, which, 
 though the fame in form, are embeliifhed more or lels 
 with red feathers. 
 
 Both men and women occafionallv defend their fac«s 
 from the fun with little bonnets, made of various forts 
 of materials. 
 
 The ornaments worn by thofe of either fex are the 
 fame. Thofe Which are moft common are necklaces, 
 made of the fruit of the pandanus, and various fweet- 
 fmelling flowers, known by the general name of kahulla. 
 Others confift of fmall /hells, iliark's teeth, the wing 
 and leg bones of birds, &c. all which are pendant uppn 
 the breail. In this manner, they often wear apolifhed 
 mother-of-pearl flaell, or a ring, on the upper part of 
 the arm; rings of tortoife fhell on the fingers; and 
 feveral of tliefe joined together, formed into bracelets 
 on the w lifts. 
 
 Two holes are perforated in the lobes of the cars, in 
 which they wear cylindrical bits of ivory, of the length 
 of three inches, introduced at one ' )Ie, and drawn out 
 of the other; or bits of reed, filled with a yellow 
 pigment. ^ 
 
 Ferfonal cleanlinefs is their delight ; to produce which, 
 they bathe frequently in the ponds. Though the wa- 
 ter has an intolerable ilench in mod of them, they al- 
 ways prefer them to the fea ; and they are fo fenfible 
 that their fkin is injured with fait water, that, when 
 they are obliged to bathe in the fea, they have frefli 
 water poured over theia to wafli off its bad efFe<5ls, 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. \ 
 
 f r 
 
 10! 
 
 They are extravagantly fond of cocoa-nut oil; a great 
 quantity of which tliey pour upon their head and 
 flioulders, and rub the body all over with a fmaller 
 quantity, . : ... ,«r'«j ,-r 
 
 The domeflic life of thefe people is neither fo labo- 
 rious as to be difagreeabte, nor fo free from employ- 
 ment as to fufFer them to degenerate into indolence. 
 Their country has been fo favoured by nature, tliat the 
 fir ft can fcarccly occur; and their difpofition appears to 
 be a fufEcient bar to the laft. The " employment of 
 the women is not difficult ; and is generally fuch as 
 they can execute in the houfe. The making of cloth 
 is intirely entrufted to their care, ^ 
 
 Another manufacture, which is alfo configned to 
 the women, is that of their mats, which excel thofe of 
 moft other countries, both with refpedt to their tex- 
 ture and their beauty. There are ftveral other articles 
 of lefs importance, that employ thdr females. 
 
 The province o^ the men is,, as might reafonahly be 
 expe61ed, far more lal-orious and extenfive thaA that of 
 the other fex. ArchitetSlure, boat- building, i^gticul- 
 ture, and fifliiiig, . are the principal objects of their 
 care. As cultivated roots and fruits form their chief 
 fubfiftence, they find it neceflary to pradlife hufbandryj 
 which they have brought by their diligence to,foine 
 degree of perfedlion. 
 
 The bread- fruit and cocoa nut trees are difperfed 
 about, without any order; and, when they have ar» 
 rived at a certain height, give them little or no trou- 
 ble. Sugar-cane is ufually in fmall Ipots, clofely 
 crowded. The mulberry, of which the cloth is made, 
 is kept very clcta, and h is a good fpace allowed for it« 
 
 They difplay very little tafte or ingenuity in the con- 
 
 ilru6tion of their houfes. Thofe of the IoWv3r clafi ot 
 
 people are wretched huts, fcarcely fufiicient to flielter 
 
 .them from the weather. Thoie of the better fort aie 
 
 larger, as well as more commodious and comfortable. 
 
 They are very fkilful iti 1 uilding their canoes, which, 
 indeed, are the moll peiltdl of their mechanical pro- 
 ilu^ions. The doubles ones are made fufiicicntly large 
 • « F5 ^ to 
 
 I.' *i 
 
206 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THB 
 
 to carry about fifty perfons, and fail at a great rate. 
 Upon them they generally fix a hut or fhed, for the 
 reception of the matter and his family. They are made 
 of the bread-fruit tree, and the workmanfhip is ex- 
 tremely neat. They appear on the outfide as if they 
 ^ere compofed of one folid piece; but, upon clofer 
 infpedtion, they are found to confift of a great number 
 of pieces, \^hith fit each other cxa6tly, and by means 
 of a ledge on the infide are fecured together with co~ 
 coa-ntrt line. The (ingle canoes are fumifhed with an 
 outrigger. The only tools which they m:^e ufe of in 
 the conftru^ion of thefe boats, are hatchets, or adzes, 
 of a fmooth black (lone; augers, made of ftiark's teeth; 
 and rafps, compofed of the rough ikin of a fifh, faf- 
 tened on flat pieces of wood. The fame tools are all 
 they have for other works, eiccept ihells, which ferve 
 them for knives. Their cordage is made of the fibres 
 of the cocoa-nut hufk, whichj though not above ten 
 jncbes long, they plait about the fize of a quill, to 
 whatever length is required, and roll it up in balls ; 
 from which the ropes of a larger fize are made, by 
 twifting feveral of thofe together. Their fifliing-lincs 
 are as ftrong and even as our beft cord. Their fmall 
 Kodks confift entirely of peatl-fliell ; but the large ones 
 are only covered with it on the back ; and the points 
 of both are, in general, of tortoife-fhell. They have 
 alfo numbers of fmall feines, fome of \^tch are of 
 the moft delicate texture. 
 
 Their mufical reeds or pipes, which refemble the 
 fyrinx of the ancients, have eight or ten pieces placed 
 parallel to each other, moft of which are of unequal 
 lengths. Their flutes are made of a joint of bamboo, 
 about eighteen inches long, and are clofed at both ends, 
 having a hole near each end, and four others ; two of 
 which, and only one of the firft, arc ufed by them in 
 playing. 
 
 Their warlike weapons are clubs, curioufly orna- 
 mented, fpears, and d^r(s* They alfo make bows and 
 arrows ; but thefe ^ire ii^^ended for amufement, fuch as 
 jDiooting at birdi, and ri6t for the purpofcs of war. 
 
 ^ 2 Their 
 
 Thei 
 
 cocoa-i 
 
 tides 
 
 the cq 
 
 hogs, 
 
 occafio 
 
 Their 
 
 heite ; 
 
 feveral 
 
 very c 
 
 of cati 
 
 or coo 
 
 bevera 
 
 genera 
 
 Tj The 
 
 eftima 
 
 pened, 
 
 at the 
 
 rank 
 
 great i 
 
 Th( 
 
 a ftroi 
 
 cles an 
 
 till til 
 
 ftones 
 
 into t 
 
 thighs 
 
 tions, 
 
 thede 
 
 them, 
 
 mats 
 
 Cook 
 
 ifland 
 
 or bo 
 
 whic 
 
 acco^ 
 
 this ( 
 
 6h% < 
 
 theg 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. IO7 
 
 Their vegetable diet principally confifts of plantains, 
 cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, and yams. Their chief arr 
 tides of animal food are hogs, fifh, and fowls; but 
 the common people frequently eat rats. Their 
 hogs, fowls, and turtle, however, feem to be only 
 occafional dainties, referved for perfons of rank. 
 Their food is, in general, drefled by baking, as at Ota- 
 heite ; and they make, from different forts of fruit, 
 leveral difhes, which are very good. They are no^ 
 very cleanly either in their cookery or their manner 
 of eating. Their ufual drink at their meals is water, 
 or cocoa-nut milk, the kava being only their morning 
 beverage. The food that is ferved up to the chiefs, is 
 generally laid upon plantain-leaves. 
 
 Though female chaftity feemed to be held in little 
 eftimation, not a fmgle breach of conjugal fidelity hap- 
 pened, to our kno ivledge, during our whole continuance 
 at thefe iflands ; nor were the unmarried women of 
 rank more liberal of their favours. But there were 
 great numbers of a very, different character. 
 
 The concern fliewn by thefe iflanders for the dead, is 
 a flrong proof of their humanity. Befides burnt cir- 
 cles and fears, they ftrike a fhark's tooth into their heads 
 till the blood flows confiderably, beat their teeth with 
 ftones, and thrufl fpears not only through their cheeks 
 into their mouths, but alfo into the inner part of their 
 thighs, and into their fides. The more painful opera- 
 tions, however, are only pratSlifed when they mourn 
 the death of thofe who were moft nearly conne6^ed with 
 them. When one of them dies, he is wrapped up in 
 mats and cloth, and then interred. When Captain 
 Cook, during his fecond voyage, firft vifited thefe 
 iflands, he obferved that many of the (natives had one 
 or both of their little fingers cut off; of the reafonof 
 which mutilation he could not then obtain a fatisfmSlory 
 account. But he was now informed, that they perform 
 this operation when they are affli61:ed with fome danger- 
 dts diforder, which they imi^ine may bring them to 
 the grave. They fuppofe, that the little finger wilj be 
 
 • F 6 accepted, 
 
 m 
 
 t 
 
 U 
 
 -^m 
 
io8 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 accepted of by the Deity, as a kind of propitiatory fa- 
 critice fufficiently efficacious to procure their recovery. 
 In cutting it oft^ they make ufe of a ftone hatchet. 
 There was fcarcely one perfon in ten who was not thus 
 mutilated ; and they fometimes cut fo clofe, as to en- 
 croach upon that bone of the hand which joins the am- 
 putated finger. It is alfo common for the lower clafs 
 of people to cnt oiF a joint of their little finger, on ac- 
 count of the ficknefs of the chiefs to whom they ref- 
 pe6tively belong. 
 
 ITiey admit a plurality of deities, all of them infe- 
 rior to Kallafootonga^ who they fay is a female, and the 
 fupreme author of moil things, refiding in the heavens, 
 and directing the wind, rain, thunder, &c. They are of 
 Dpinion* that when fhe is much difpleafed with them, 
 the produdlions of the earth are blafled, many things 
 confumed by lightning, and themfelves afflidied with 
 ficknefs and death ; but that when her anger abates, 
 every thing is immediately reflored to its former fiate. 
 
 They do not worfhip any vifible part of the creation, 
 or any thing made by their own hands. They make 
 no offerings of d(5gr, hogs, and fruit (as is the cuftom 
 at Otaheite) unkfs emblematically. But there feems^ 
 to be no reafon to doubt of their olFering up human fa- 
 crifices. 
 
 We are very little acquainted with their form of go- 
 vernment. A fubordination, refembling the feudal fyf- 
 tem of our anceftors in Europe, is eftablifhed among 
 them ; but of its fubdivifions, and the conftituent parts, 
 we are ignorant. Thougli fome of them intormed us, 
 that the king's power is unbounded, and that he has 
 the abfolute difpofal of the lives and properties of his 
 fubjedls; yet the few circumfiances that offered them- 
 felves to our obfervation, contradicted, rather than ' 
 confirmed, the idea of defpotic fway. 
 
 The ifland of Tongataboo is divided into numerous 
 diftridis^ , each of which has its peculiar chief, who dif- 
 tributes jufiice, and decides difputes, within his own 
 territory. Moft of tliefe chieftains have eftates in 
 other ifbnds, whence they procure fupplies. The 
 
 I king 
 
 kid 
 
 tan| 
 
 ufuJ 
 
 per^ 
 
 are 
 
 the I 
 
 the! 
 
 tail 
 
 liar 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK; 
 
 109 
 
 king, at flated times, receives the product of his dif- 
 tant domains at Tongataboo, which is not only the 
 uiual place of his relidence, but the abode of moll 
 perfons of diftin6lion among thefe iflands. The chiefs 
 are ftyled by the people lords of the earth, and alfo of 
 the fun and Iky. '*^^-^^'' 
 
 None of the moft civilized nations have ever exceeded 
 thefe iflanders in the great order and regularity main- 
 tained on every occafion, in ready and fubmiflive com- 
 iiance with the commands of their chiefs, and in the 
 perfedb harmony that fubfifts among all ranks. Such a 
 behaviour manifefts itfelf in a remarkable manner, 
 whenever their chiefs harangue a body of them af- 
 fembled together, which frequently happens. The 
 greateft attention and moft profound filence are ob- 
 ferved during the harangue ; and whatever might have 
 l)een the purport of the oration, we never faw a ilngle 
 inftance, when any one of thofe who were prefent ' 
 fhewed figns of his being difpleafed, or feemed in the 
 leaft inclined to difpute the declared will of the fpeaker. 
 
 When we take into confideration the number of 
 iflands of which this ftate confifts, and the diftance at 
 which fome of them are removed from the feat of go- 
 vernment, attempts to throw off the yoke of fubjedlion 
 might be apprehended. But they informed us, that 
 this circumftance never happens. 
 
 The different clafles of their chiefs feemed to be 
 nearly as numerous as among us; but there are few, 
 comparatively fpeaking, that are lord:, of extenfive 
 diftridls of territory. It is faid, that, when a perfon ; 
 of property dies, all his pofffsflions devolve on the fo- 
 vereign ; but that it is cuftomary to give them to the 
 eldeft fon of the deceafed, with this condition annexed, 
 that he fhould provide, out of the eftate, for the other 
 children. The crown is hereditary; and we know, 
 from a particular circumftance, that the Futtafaihes, 
 of which family is Poulaho, have reigned, in a dlre6l 
 line, for the fpace of at leaft one hundred and thirty-ftve 
 years, which have elapfed between our prefent vifit to 
 thefe iflands, and T'afman's difcovery of them* 
 
 The 
 
 ■1 1 
 
 
 if 
 
 m^ 
 
!7-T 
 
 iio 
 
 A VOYAr:E TO THE 
 
 The language of thefc iflands bears a flriking refem- 
 blance to that of New Zealand, of Otaheite, and the 
 Society Ifles. The pronunciation of thefe people dif- 
 fers, indeed, in many inftances, from that botli of 
 Otaheite and New Zealand; but, notwithftanding 
 that, a great number of words are either very little, 
 changed, or exa<Stly the fame. The language, as fpo- 
 ken by the Friendly Iflanders, is fufficiently copious to 
 exprefs all their ideas; and, befides being tolerably 
 harmonious in common converfation, is eafily adapted 
 to the purpofes of mufic. They have terms to fignify 
 rtumbers as for as a hundred thoufand, beyond which 
 they either would not, or could not, reckon. 
 
 The latitude of that part of Tongataboo where 
 cur obfervatory was eredled, which was near the mid- 
 dle of the north-fide of the ifland, was, according to 
 the moft accurate obfervations, 21** 8 19' fouth; and 
 its longitude was 184** 55' i8 " eaft. 
 
 BOOK III. 
 
 OCCURRENCES AT OTAHEITE AND THE SOCIETY 
 ISLES, AND PROSECUTION OF THE VOYAGE TO 
 THE COAST or NORTH AMERICA. 
 
 w 
 
 E had now taken our final leave of the Friend-* 
 ly Iflands. On the 17th of July, at eight o'clock in 
 the evening, Eooa bore north-eail by north, diftant 
 three or four leagues. The wind blew a frefh gale at 
 eaft. "W^e ftbod to the fouth till after fix o'clock the 
 next morning, when, from the fame direction, a fud- 
 d^en fouall took our £hip aback ; and before we could 
 trim the ihips on the other tack, the main fail and top- 
 ^lant fails were confiderably torn. 
 
 We. (tretched'to the eaft-fouth-eail, without meet- 
 ing witH any. thing remarkable, till the 29th, at feven 
 oHock in the evening, when wc had a very heavy %uaH 
 
 of 
 
PACIFIC OCEANi 
 
 lit 
 
 of wind from the north. We were at this time under 
 fingle-reefed top fails, courfes, and flay fails. Two of 
 the latter were almoft demolillied by the wind, and it 
 was with the utmofl difficulty that we faved the other 
 fails. This fquall being over, we faw feveral lights 
 moving about on board the Difcovery, whence we 
 conje(Slured that fomething had given way; and the 
 next morning we perceived that her main-topmaft had 
 been loft. Both wind and weather remained very un- 
 fdttled till noon, when the latter cleared up, and the 
 former fettled in the north-weft quarter; We were 
 now in the latitude of 28^ 6' fouth^ and our longitude 
 was 198** 23'eaft. 
 
 AtnooD, on the 31ft, Captain Gierke made a fignal 
 to fpeak with Captai.. Cook; and afterwards informed 
 him, that the head of the mainmaft had fprung^ and 
 in fuch a manner, as to render the rigging of another 
 topmaft extremely dangerous ; that he muft therefore 
 rig fomething lighter in its place. He farther inform- 
 ed him, that he had loft his main-top-gallant yard, and 
 had not another on board, nor a fpar to make one. 
 Captain Cook fent him the Refolution's fprit-fail top- 
 fail yard, which fupplied this want for the prefcnt. 
 The next day, by getting up a jury topmaft, on which 
 he fet a mizen topfail, he was enabled to keep way 
 with the RefoluticMi. ^ 
 
 We fteered eaft-north-eaft and north-caft, without 
 meeting with any remarkable occurrence, till the 
 morning of the 8th of Auguft, at eleven o'clock^ when 
 land was obferved about nine or ten leagues diftant. 
 At firft it appeared like fo maay feparate iflands : bijt 
 a$ we approached we found it was all connected, and 
 formed one and the fame ifland. 
 
 At day break, the next morning, we fteered for the 
 north-weft fide of the ifland, and as we ftood round 
 its fouth-weft part, we faw it guarded by a reef of 
 coral rock, extending in fome places at leaft a mile 
 from tfile land, and a high furf breaking 'upon it. As 
 we drew near, we law people walkingior running along 
 aihore on feveral parts of the coaft» aud ina fhort time 
 *. after 
 
 E>' I" 
 
iia 
 
 A VOYAOE TO THE 
 
 after, we faw two canoes launched, in which were 
 about a dozen men, who pa Idled towards us. 
 
 In order to give thefe canoes time to come up with 
 VIS, we fliortened fail, and the canoes, after haviny; ad- 
 vanced within piftol fhot of the fliips, fuddLMiIy Uop- 
 ped. The natives often pointed eagerly to the iliore 
 with their paddles, at the fame time calling to u^ to 
 go thither ; and many of their people, who v/ere Itand- 
 ing upon the beach, held up fomething >vhi\! in their 
 hands, which we conftrued as an invi Mtion r ^r us to 
 land: the Captain, however, did not chufe to rifk. the 
 advaotage of a fair wind, in order to examine an iiland 
 that appeared to be but of little confequence ; and 
 therefore, after making feveralunfuccefsful attempts to 
 prevail upon thefe people to come near us, we made 
 fail to the north, and left them, having firft learned 
 that the name of their iiland was Toobouai. It is 
 iituated in the latitude of 23^ 25' fouth, and 210*^ 37* 
 eaft longitude, 
 
 » jThe greatei^ extent of this iflimd m any dire6lion is 
 not above five or fix miles. Small, however, as it ap- 
 pears, there are hills in it of a confiderable elevation ; 
 at the fool of which is a narrow border of flat land, ex- 
 tending almofl: all round it, bordered with a white fand 
 beach. The hills were covered with herbage, except 
 a few rocky clifFs, with patches of trees interfperfed 
 on their fummits. This ifland, as we were informed 
 by the men in the canoes, is plentifully (locked with 
 hogs and fowls, and produces the feveral kinds of fruits 
 and roots that are to be met with at the other iflands 
 in this neighbourhood. 
 
 Leaving the ifland, we fleered to the north with a 
 frefh gale, and at day break, on the 12th, we perceived 
 ihe ifland of Maitea. 
 
 As we drew near the ifland, we were attended by 
 fever:U canoes, each condudled by two or three men. 
 But as they were of the lower clafs, Omai feemed 
 to take no particular notice of them, nor they of-him. 
 At length a chief, whom Captain Cook had known 
 before, named Ootee, and.Onxai's brother-in-law, who 
 
 happened 
 
 us. 
 
PACIFIC O C E A K. , 113 
 
 liappeiied to be at this corner of the ifland, and three 
 or four others, all of whom knew Omai, before he 
 embarked "with Captain P'urneaux, came on board. 
 Yet there was nothing in the leall tender or ftriking 
 in their meeting; but, on tlie contrary, a perfe£l in- 
 dilFerence on both fides, till Omai, condudling his 
 brother into the cabiti, opened a drawer, and gave him 
 a few red feathers. This circumftance being foon com- 
 municated to the rcfl of the natives on deck, Ootee, 
 who before would hardly fpeak to him, now begged 
 that they might be tayos (friends) and exchange names, 
 Omai accepted of tlie honour, and a prefent of red fea- 
 thers ratified the agreement; Ootee, by way of recom- 
 )»encc, fent afliore for a hog. It was evident, how- 
 ever, to all of us, that it was not the man but his 
 property that they efteemed. 
 
 We underftood from the natives who came ofF to 
 us, that fmce Captain Cook laft vifited this iiland in 
 1774, two other fliips had twice been in Oheitepeha 
 liay, and had left animals there like thofe we had on 
 board. But on inquiry into the particulars, we found 
 that they confifted only of hogs, dogs, goats, a bull, 
 and the male of another, which they fo imperfe(£tly 
 defcribed, that we could not conjecture what it was. 
 Thefe fhips, they informed us, had come from a place 
 called Reema; which we fuppofed to be Lima, the 
 capital of Peru, and that thefe late vifitors were con- 
 fequently Spaniards. They told us, that the firft time 
 they arrived, they built a houfe, and left behind them 
 two priefls, a boy or fervant, and a perfv^n called Ma- 
 teema; taking away with them when they. failed, four 
 of the natives ; that about ten months afterwards, 
 the fame fliips returned, bringing back only two of 
 the natives, the other two having died at Lima; and 
 that after a fliort flay, they took away the people they 
 had left; but that the houfe which they eredied wis 
 left flanding. 
 
 We had not long anchored, before Omai's filler 
 came on board, to congratulate him on his arrival. It 
 was pleafing to obferve, that to the honour of each 
 
 of 
 
IH 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ■of them, their meeting was marked with exprefllons of 
 the tendereft alTcClion. 
 
 When this afFed^ing fcene was clofed, and the fliip 
 properly moored, Omui attended Captain Cook on 
 iliore. The Captain then left Omai, furrounded hy 
 n number of people, and went to take a fnrvey of the 
 houfe faid to have been ere6led by the flrangers who 
 hud lately landed there. He found it ftill (landing, at 
 a fmall diftanc'^ from the beach : it was compofed of 
 wooden materials, which appeared to have been brought 
 hither ready prepared, in order to fet up as occafion 
 might require; for the planks were all numbered. It 
 confifted of two fmall rooms, in the inner of which 
 were a bedftead, a bench, a table, fome old hats, and 
 other trifles, of which the natives fsemed to be re- 
 markably careful, as well as of the building itfelf, 
 which had received no injury from the weather, a 
 kind of ihed having been ere6led over it. Scuttles, 
 ferving as air holes, appeared all round the building; 
 and, perhaps, they were alfo meant for the additional 
 purpofe of firing from with mufkets, if neceffity ihould 
 require it. A wooden crofs was placed at a little 
 diftance from the front, on the tranfverfe part 
 of which appeared the following infcription : Chrljlus 
 vindt. On the perpendicular part (which confirmed 
 our coiijedtiire that the two iliips were Spanifh) was 
 engraved, Carolus III. imperat. 1774. And on the 
 other fide of the poft, Captain Cook very properly 
 preferved the memory of the prior villts of the En- 
 glifh, by infdtibing, Georgius tertius, rex, Annis 1767, 
 
 17H ^113^ '^17^ ^' 1777- 
 Near the foot of the crols the iflanders pointed out 
 
 to us the grave of the Commodore of the two fhips, 
 who died here, while they lay in the bay on their firft 
 arrival. His name, as near as we could gather from 
 their pronunciation, was Oreede. The Spaniards, 
 whatever their intentions might be in vifiting this 
 i'flahd, feemed to have taken infinite pains to have in- 
 gratiated themfelves with the natives; who> upon ali 
 
 occa- 
 
 occafions, men 
 elleem and ven< 
 
 When Cap 
 cre6lcd by tlie 
 a very large co 
 gage him to a( 
 to lettle a matti 
 
 Knowing t 
 iflands, could 
 the liquor of 
 wiflied to pre 
 abridged, for a 
 fpirits to mix 
 
 This propof 
 fideration, and 
 find that it wa: 
 Captain Clerk( 
 pie, which the 
 grog was ther 
 Saturday night 
 of it, to enabl( 
 female friends 
 of Otaheite th< 
 
 Waheiadooa, 
 at a confide rabl 
 rival; and in tl 
 Etorea, his tu 
 as a prefent fr< 
 time, that he 
 He was pun6li 
 ceived a mefTa 
 notifying his 
 afhore to meet 
 Omai and he 
 Omai, on thi 
 liimfelf, not af 
 of Otaheite, c 
 other country 
 of ail the hal 
 fed of* 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. IJ^ 
 
 occafions, mentioned them with the ilrongeft terms of 
 elleem and veneration. 
 
 When Captain Cook returned from the hoiife 
 eredted hy tlie Spaniards, !ie found Omai harranguing 
 a very large company, and could with difficulty difen- 
 gage him to accompany him on board, where he had 
 to lettle a matter of importance. 
 
 Knowing that Otalieite, and the neighbouring 
 iflands, could fupply us plentifully with cocoa nuts, 
 the liquor of which is a moft excelk ;it beverage, he 
 wiflied to prevail upon his people to confent to be 
 abridged, for a fhort time, of their dated allowance of 
 fpirits to mix with water. 
 
 This propofal did not remain a moment under con- 
 fideration, and Captain Cook had the fatisfacftion to 
 find that it was unanimoufly approved of. He ordered 
 Captain Clerke to make a fimilar propofal to his peo- 
 ple, which they alfo readily agreed to. The I'erving of 
 grog was therefore immediately flopped, except on 
 Saturday nights, when all the men had a full allowance 
 of it, to enable them to drink the healths of their 
 female friends in tvigland; left amid ft the pretty girls 
 of Otaheite they ftiould be totally forgotten. 
 
 Waheiadooa, king of this part of the ifland, though 
 at a confiderable diftance, had been informed of our ar- 
 rival; and in th'e afternoon of the i6th, a chief named 
 Etorea, his tutor, brought Captain Cook two hog^ 
 as a prefent froii^ him ; acquainting him at the fame 
 time, that he himfelf would attend him the day after. 
 He was puniflual to his promife; for the Captain re- 
 ceived a meffage from him early the next morning^ 
 notifying his arrival, and requefting he would go 
 afhore to meet him. In confequence of this invitatioi^ 
 Omai and he prepared to make him a formal yifit, 
 Omai, on this occafion, took fome pains to drefs 
 liimfelf, not after the manner of the Engliiii, nor thit 
 of Otaheite, or Tongataboo, or in the drefs of any 
 other country upon earth; but in a ftrange medley 
 of all the habiliments and ornaments he was pbflef- 
 led of. I • 
 
 Thui 
 
 ;l 
 i; I 
 
 I* *l 
 
 I 
 
 S J 
 
 ■-: it 
 
 
 s-i'i 
 
Ii6 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Thus equipped, they got nfhore, and firfl paid a 
 vifit to Eiary; who, carried on a hand-barroW, accom- 
 panied them to a larg^ building where he was fet 
 down; Omai feated himfelf on one fide of him, and 
 Captain Cook on the other. The Captain caiifed a 
 piece of Tongataboo cl»"'th to be fpread, on wliich were 
 placed the prefents he intended to make. The young 
 chief foon afler arrived, attended by his mother and 
 feveral principal men, who all feated themfelves op- 
 pofite to us. A man who fat near the Captain made 
 a fhort Tpcech, con filling of ieparate fentences, part 
 of which was diflated by thofe about him. Another, 
 on the oppofite lide near the chief fpoke next; Etary 
 after him, and then Omai, tie. The fubje«fls of thefe 
 orations were Captain Cook's arrival, and his con- 
 nections with them. 
 
 The young chief at length was direfled by his at- 
 tendants to embrace Captain Cook ; and ai^ a confir- 
 mation of this treaty of friendfhip, they exchanged 
 names. After thefe ceremonies were over, he and his 
 friends accompanied the Captain, to dine with him 
 on board. 
 
 On the 19th, Captain Cook received from the 
 young chief, a prefent of ten or a dozen hogs, fome 
 cloth, and a quantity of fruit. In the evening we 
 exhibited fome fireworks, which both pleafed and afto- 
 nifhed the numerous fpedlators. 
 
 Having provided a frefh fupply of water, and fi- 
 niftiCd all our neceflary operations, on the 2 2d we 
 made ready for fea. While the fhips were unmooring, 
 Omai and Captain Cook landed in the morning of the 
 'j,2'\y to take leave of the young chief. 
 
 Soon after the Captain got on board, a light breeze 
 fj>ringing up ?it eaft, we got under fail, and the Refo- 
 lution anchored the fame evening at Maiavai Bay; 
 but the Difcovefy did not get in till the next morning. 
 
 On Sunday the 24th, in the morning, Otoo, the 
 king of the whole ifland, accompanied by a great num- 
 ber of the natives in their canoes, came from Oparre, 
 his place of refidence, and having landed on Matav-:! 
 
 point, 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 117 
 
 Point, ft nt a meflenger on board, intimatin(T his defire 
 to fee Captain Cook there. }-Ie accordingly v^tnt 
 ajliore, attended by Oniai, and lome of the < t^i< jis, 
 7Tiey found a vaft number of people afli^mblcd on this 
 occalion, in the midll of whom was il^e king/ with 
 his father, his two brothers, anr tl.re-i fliicrs. The 
 Captain went towards him an! "jiured liiin, being fol- 
 lowed by Omai, who kncti u end embraced his legs, 
 Though Omai had prepared hiuiielf for this ceremony, 
 by drefTmg himfelf in his befl: apparel, and behaved 
 with great refpedl and rnodefty, yet very httle notice 
 was taken of him. He made the king a prefent of 
 two or three yards of gold cio^h, and a large piece of 
 red feathers, and the Captain gave him a gold-laced hat, 
 a f'lit of fine linen, fome tools, a quantity of. red 
 feathers, and one of the bonnets worn at the iViendly 
 Illands. 
 
 This vifit being c/er, the king, and all the royal 
 fiimily, accompanied Captain Cook on board, followed 
 by fevernl canoes, plentifully laden with all kind of 
 proviiions. Not long after, the king's mother came 
 on board, bringing with her fome provifions and cloth, 
 which flie divided between the Commodore and Omai. 
 Though the latter was hut little noticed at firft by his 
 couiitrymen, they no fooner gained information of his 
 wealth, than they began to court his friend/hip. Cap- 
 tain Cook encouraged this as f^ir as lay in his power, 
 being defirous of filling 'him with Otoo. In'iending 
 to leave all his European animals at this ifland, he 
 thought Omai would be able to give the natives fome 
 inftrudtion with regard to their ufe, and the manage- 
 ment of them. Belides, the Captain was convmced, 
 that the farther he was removed from his native illand, 
 the more he would be refpe6led. But, unfortunately, 
 Omai reje(51ed his advice, and behaved in fo imprudent 
 a manner, that he foon loft thefriendfliip of Otoo, and 
 of all the moft confiderable jKirfons at Otaheite, He 
 alFociated with none but ftrangers and vagabonds, whofe 
 fole intention was to plunder him : and, if theCaptaia 
 had not interfered, they would not have left him afm- 
 
 m 
 
 k 
 
 
ii8 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 gle article of any confequence. This condudl drew 
 upon him the ill-will of the principal chiefs ; who 
 found that they could not obtain, from any one in ei- 
 ther fhip, fuch valuable prefents as were beftowed by 
 Omai on the loweft of the people. After dinner, a 
 party of us accompanied Otoo to Oparre, taking with 
 us fome poultry, conlifling of a peacock and hen, a 
 turkey-cock and hen, three geefe, one gander, four 
 ducks and a drake. All thefe we left at Oparre, in 
 the poffeflion of Otoo ; and the geefe and ducks began 
 to breed before we failed. We found there a gander, 
 that Captain Wallis had given to Oberea ten yecrs be- 
 fore ; we alfo met with feveral goats, and the Spaiifli 
 bull, whom they kept tied to a tree, near tlie bribitation 
 of Otoo. We never beheld a finer aninn ) ol '^'s kind. 
 The next day the Commodore lent to this Luii uiie three 
 cows that he had on board ; and the bull, which he had 
 brought, the horfe, a:id mare, and flieep, were now 
 put aihore at Matavai. Having thus dil'pofed of thefe 
 animals, he found himfelf ealed of the extrordinary 
 trouble and vexation that attended the bringing this 
 living cargo to fuch a diftance. 
 
 While we remained here, the crews of both fliips 
 were occupied in many neceflliry operations. The 
 Dificovery's main-maft was carried afliore, and made 
 as good as it had ever been before. Our fails and wat i - 
 cafks were repaired ; both our iliips were caulked ; 
 the rigging was completely overhauled. We like 
 wife infpedled the bread that we liad on hoard in caiks, 
 and found' that but little of it was damaged. 
 
 On the 26th, a piece of ground was cleared for a 
 garden, and planted with feveral articles ; very few ot 
 which will, probably, be looked after by the natives. 
 Some potatoes, melons, and pine-apple plants, -vcre 
 in a fair way of fucceeding before we quitted tne pi; r s 
 
 In the evening of the 29th, the iflanders made a pre- 
 cipitate retreat, both from our land ftation, and from 
 On board the fliips. We conjedured that tliis aroie from 
 their knowing that fome theft Iiacf beti comntitted, and 
 Apprehending punilliiiR^ut upon that account. At length, 
 
 were 
 
PACIFIC OCEAl^. 
 
 119 
 
 Wb became acquainted with the whole afFair. One of 
 the Surgeon's mates had made an excurfion into the 
 country to purchafe curiofities, and had taken with him 
 four hatchets for the purpofe of exchange. Having been 
 fo imprudent as to employ a native to carry them, the 
 fellow took an opportunity of running off with fo va- 
 luable a prize. This was the reafon of the fudden 
 flight, in which Otoo himfelf, and all his family, had 
 joined ; and it vyas with difficulty that the Captain flop- 
 ped them, after following them for the fpace of two 
 or three miles. As he had determined to take no mea- 
 fures for the recovery of the hatchets, that his people 
 for the future might be more upon their guard againft 
 fuch negligence, every thing quickly refumed its former 
 tranquillity. 
 
 The next morning, fome mefTengers arrived from 
 JLimeo, with intelligence, that the people of that ifland 
 were in arms ; and that Otoo's partizans there had 
 been obliged by the oppofite party to retreat to the 
 mountains. The quarrel between the two iilands, 
 which began in 1774, had partly fubfifled ever fmce, 
 A formidable armament had failed foon after Captain 
 Cook left Otaheite in his lail voyage; but the male- 
 contents of Eimeo had made fo gallant a refinance, that 
 the fleet had returned without iliccefs ; and now ano- 
 ther expedition was deemed necelfary. On the arrival 
 of tliefe meflengers, the chiefs aflembled at Oto6*s 
 houie, where the Ca])tain a£lually was at that time, 
 and had the honour of being admitted into their coun- 
 cil. One of the melTengers opened the bufinefs with 
 a f^^eech of confiderable length, the purport of whick 
 was to explain the fituution of affairs in Eimed, and 
 to excite the Otaheitean chiefs to arm on the occafion. 
 This opinion was oppofed by others who were againft 
 commencing hoflilities; and the debate was carried oji 
 with great order and decorum. At length, however, 
 the party for war prevailed ; and it was refolved, though 
 xiot unauimoufly, that a ftrong force fhould be fent to 
 Eimeo. Otoo faid very little during the whole debate. 
 I'liofe of the council, who were inclinable for war^ 
 
 applie'j 
 
 H 
 
 i m 
 
 h. 
 
 i 4 
 
 I I 
 
 r 
 
 
120 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 applied to the Oiptaiii for his affiflance ; and all of them 
 were defirous of knowing what part he would take. 
 Oinai was fent for to a<fl as his interpreter ; but, as 
 he could not be found, the Captain, being under a 
 neceffity of fpeaking for himfelt, told them, as well 
 as he could, that, as he was not perfe6i:ly acquainted 
 with the difpute, and as the natives of Eimeo had ne- 
 ver given him the leaft caufe of offence, he could not 
 think of engaging in hoftilities againil them. With 
 this declaration they either were, or appeared to be, 
 fatisfied. The council was then diflblved ; but, before 
 th^ Captain retired, Otoo defired him to come again 
 in t' fternoon, and bring Omai with him. 
 
 A ^ rty of U9 accordingly waited upon him at the 
 appointed time; and he condu6i:ed us to his father, in 
 whofe prefence the difpute with Eimeo was again dif- 
 cuffed. The Commodore being very defirous of ef- 
 fedting an accommodation, founded the old chief on 
 that fubjedl ; but he was deaf to any fuch propofal, 
 and fully determined to carry on hoftilities. On our 
 inquiry into the caufe of the war, we were informed, 
 that, feveral year^. ago, a brother of Waheiadooa, of 
 Tiaraboo, was fent to Eimeo, at the defire of Maheine, 
 n popular chief of that ifland, to be their king ; but 
 had not been there many days before Maheine, having 
 caufed him to be put to death, fet up for himfelf, in 
 oppofition to Tierataboonooe, nephew of the deceafed, 
 who now became the lawful heir, or perhaps had been 
 appointed, by the people of Otaheite, to fucceed to the 
 government on the death of the other. 
 
 Our gentlemen being now at Oparre, Otoo folicited 
 them to pafs the night there. They had here an oppor- 
 tunity of obfervlng how thefe people amufe themfelves, 
 in their private hecvas. They faw about a hundred of 
 tliem fitting in a houfe; in the midft of whom were 
 two women, and an old man behind each of the n, 
 beating gently upon a drum ; and the women, 
 at intervals, finging with great foftnefs and deli- 
 cacy. The aflfembly were very attentive, and feem- 
 ^d, a^ it were, abforbed in the pleasure the mufic 
 
 gave 
 
gave 
 Itrang 
 the ps 
 Here 
 hetvai 
 the pj 
 and 
 when 
 the n 
 this 
 they 
 ner; 
 were 
 tainn 
 Capt: 
 ingti 
 ther, 
 Capt; 
 Oi 
 work 
 were 
 much 
 
 Tiniey 
 
 'fee tt 
 
 '^salheb 
 
 and d 
 
 < moil 
 
 ^ A 
 
 on £ 
 
 thirty 
 
 with! 
 
 peare 
 
 full r 
 
 along 
 
 at ten 
 
 plee 
 
 ter a 
 
 of cl 
 
 the 
 
 ped 1 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK. 
 
 121 
 
 gave them; few of them taking any notice of the 
 itrangers, and the performers never once ceafmg. When 
 the party arrived at Otoo's houfe, it was almoft dark. 
 Here they were entertained with one of their public 
 heevaSf or plays, in which his three lifters reprefented I 
 the principal characters. This they call a heeva m'd, 
 and no perfon is fuffercd to enter the houfe or area- 
 where it is exhibited. This is always the cafe, when 
 the royal fillers are the performers. Their drefs^ 09 
 this occafion, was truly elegant and pi6lurefque, and 
 they acquitted themfelves in a very diflinguifhed man- 
 ner; though fome comic interludes, wherein four men 
 were the performers, feemed to afford greater enter- 
 tainment to the audience, which was Numerous. The 
 Captain and his companions proceeded the next morn- 
 ing to Matavai, leaving Otoo at Oparre ; but his mo- 
 ther, fillers, and many other women, attended the 
 Captain on board, and Otbo followed a ihort time after* 
 
 On the 7th, in the evening, we exhibited fome fire- 
 works before a vaft concourfe of people, fome of whom 
 were highly entertained, but the greater number were ^ 
 much terrified with the exhibition ; infomuch, that 
 ^ifcy could hardly be prevailed on to keep together, to 
 fee the whole of the entertainment. What concluded 
 '"^e bufinefs was a table rocket. It flew off the table, 
 and difperfed the whole crowd in an inflaht ; even the 
 moil refolute amongll them now fled with precipitation. 
 
 A paffey of us dihed, the next day, with Oedidee, 
 on fiih and pork. The hog, which weighed about 
 thirty pounds, was alive, drelied, and upon the table, 
 within the hour. Soon after we had dined, Otoo ap- 
 peared, and enquired of Captain Cook, if his belly was 
 full? whoanfwered in the affirmative. " Then come 
 along with me," faid Otoo. The Captain accordingly 
 attended him to his father's, where he faw feveral peo- 
 ple employed in dreifing two girls, with fine clolllj af- 
 ter a very fingular fiiihion. There were feveral^pieces 
 of cloth, and the one end of each piece was held over 
 the ]r i»of the girls, whiie the remainder was wrap- 
 ped roand their bodies under the arm-pits. The upper 
 
 i G ends 
 
 I 
 
 B 
 
 % ■; 
 '1 
 
 (' ■■ 
 I 
 
 ■t, '' 
 
 K ■ ■ M 
 
 fv. i 
 
tSLl>. 
 
 A VOYAOETO THE 
 
 eads were tl^n fuiiej-ed tot ikU dowa^ aii4^haiig ia> folds 
 to Use gronndy over the other. Round the outfide of 
 ally were then wrapped feveral pieces of cloth of va« 
 Ttout colours, which confukarably increaied the fize, it 
 being Bye or fix yards in circuit ; and the weight of 
 this fingular attire was as much as the poor girls could 
 well fupport. To each were hung two taamesj ot 
 hceaftpplatesy in order to embelliih the wiiole, and give 
 it a pii^uveique appearan<:e« Thus equipped, they were 
 takon 411 board the fhip, together with feveral hogs^ 
 and a quantity of fruit, whuch* together with this 
 dodi, was a prefent to Captain Cook from Otoo*s 
 father. 
 
 On the lOth, Otoo treated v^?iTty of us at Oparre 
 with a play* His three fiflers were the performers, 
 and their drefles were new and elegant, much more fo. 
 than we had met with in any of tbEtfe Lflands. 
 
 The fMiiicipal objed, however, that the Captain had 
 iK>w in view, in going to. Oparre, was to fee an ein^ 
 balmed corpfe» near the refidence of Otoo* On in- 
 quiry, he found it to be the remains of Tee, a chief 
 whom he well knew when he laft yifited this ifland* 
 It was lying in an elegant teopapaooy in all refpedts ii^ 
 milar to that at Oheitepeha, . in which the remains of 
 Waheiadooa iue depofited. We found the body wa» 
 imder cover, within the toopapaooy and wrapped up in 
 doth* At the Captain's defire, the perfon who had 
 the care of it, brought it out, and. placed it^ii si kind 
 of bier, lb as to give a perfe6b view of it ; but we were 
 npt admitted within the pales that inclqied the /00/a^ 
 pu^ The. corpfe having been thus exhibited, he orna- 
 mented the place wi&h mats and cloths, di^pofed in fuch 
 a manner as to produce a pleafing effe£^. T'he body 
 was intire in every part ; and piitrefai^on iieemed 
 hardj^^ to be begun, not the leafl difagreeable fmell 
 proce^tlMg from it,; though this Is one of the hotteft 
 climatij^ and Tee had been above four months dead. 
 There was, indeed, a (hrinking of the mufcular parts 
 and eyes, but the hair and hails were in their original 
 fiate^ and the feveral joints were pliable. On inquiry 
 I into. 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK. ' I23 
 
 into tlieir method of preferving their dead bodies, we 
 were informed, that, foon after they are dead, they 
 are diiembowelled^ by drawing the inteitines, and other 
 vtfcera^ out at the anusy and the whole cavity is fluffed 
 with cloth; that when any moifture appeat^ed, it wa> 
 immediately dried up, and the bodies rubbed all over 
 with perfumed cocoa-nut oil ; which, frequently re*' 
 peated, preferved them ieveral months; after whicH 
 they moulder away gradually. Omai informed usi that 
 the bodies of all their great men, who die a natural 
 death, are thus preferred; and are expofed to public 
 view for a very con£derable time after. At firfl, they 
 are exhibited every fine day ; afterwards^ the intervals 
 become greater and gretter ; and, at lafl, they are ver j 
 feldom to be feen. We quitted Oparre in the evening, 
 leaving Otoo and all the royal family. 
 
 The next day, the Captains Cook and Clerke, being 
 honoured with Otoo^s company, mounted on horfeback^ 
 and Tode round the plain of Matavai, to the aflonifh* 
 ment of a vaft train of fpe^lators. Once or twice» 
 before this, Omai had, indeed, attempted to get on a 
 horfe ; but he had as often fallen off, before be could 
 contrive to feat himfelf properly ; this was, therefore, 
 the firft kime they had feen any body on horfeback. 
 What the Captains had begun, was repeated daily, by 
 one or another of our people ; and yet the curiofity 
 of the natives continued unabated. After they had 
 feen the -vie that was made of tbefe animals, they were 
 exceedingly delighted with them; and we were of opi- 
 nion, that they conveyed to theni a better idea of the 
 greatkiefs of other nations, than all the novelties that 
 their £uropeanr vifitors had carried among them. 
 
 Otoo acquainted Captain Cook, that his prefencer 
 was required at Oparre, where an audience was to be 
 given to the great p^ibnage. from Bolabola, and begged 
 he would accompan y him thither. The Captain;r<^dily 
 confcnted, expelling to meet with fomething deferving 
 his notice. Accordingly, they fet out on the 1 6th, 
 attended by Mr. Aoderfon. Nothing, however, uc- 
 curiedj^that was i9|0yeAing or curious. ^ .* 
 
 .; ''^ G 2 Captain 
 
124 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Captain Cook, Mr. Anderfon, and Omal, in the 
 morning of the i8th, went again to Oparre, accom- 
 panied by Otoo; taking with them the flieep which 
 the Captain intended to leave upon the ifland. They 
 confifted of an Englifti ram and ewe, anu three Cape 
 ewes ; all which he made a prel'ent of to Otoo. All 
 the three cows having been with the bull, he thought 
 it advifeable to divide them, and carry fome to Ulietea. 
 With this view, he ordered them to be brought before 
 him, and propofed to Etary, that if he would leave 
 his bull with Otoo, he fhould have this and one of the 
 cows. To this propofal, Etary, at firft, flarted fome 
 objections ; but, at laft, agreed to it ; however, as the 
 cattle were putting into the b©at, one of Etary's fol- 
 lowers oppofed the making any exchange whatever. 
 
 The Captain, upon Uiis, fufj^edling that Etary ha^ 
 agreed to the arrangement, for the prefent, only to 
 pleafe him, dropped the idea of an exchange ; and finally 
 determined to leave them all with Otoo, whom he 
 ftridlly enjoined not to fufFer them to be removed from 
 Oparre, till he fhould have got a ftock of young ones; 
 which he might then difpofe of to his friends, or fend 
 to the neighbouring iflands. 
 
 This matter beirtg fettled, our gentlemen left Etary 
 and his party, and attended Otoo to another place, not 
 far diftant, where they found the fervants of a chief, 
 waiting with a hog. a pig, and a dog, as a prefent from 
 their mailer to the king. Thefe were delivered with 
 the ufual ceremonies, and an harangue, in which the 
 fpeaker inquired after the health of Otoo, and of all 
 his principal people. ^ 
 
 This day, and the 19th, we were very fparingly 
 fupplied with fruit. Otoo being informed of this, he 
 and his brother, who had particularly attached himfelf 
 to Captain Clerke, came from Oparre, with a large 
 i'upply for both ihips. All the royal family came the 
 next day with prefents, fo that we now had mpre.pro- 
 vifions than we could confume. tt^i^m ,1 HrBt' ^'A 
 
 >j; Our water being all on board, and every thing put in 
 ©rder, the Captain begau to tliink of quitting the ifland, 
 
 f»iii ■ % 'v^ that 
 
 his 
 
 . ltil> i ' 
 
PACIFIC OC£AV. 
 
 ras 
 
 that he might have a fufficient time for vifiting otliers 
 in this neighbourhood. We therefore removed our ob- 
 fervatories and inftruments from the fhore, and bent 
 the fails. 
 
 Early the next morning, Otoo came on board to in- 
 form Captain Cook, that the war canoes of Matavai, 
 and of three other diftri(5ls, were going to join thofe 
 belonging to Oparre, and that part of tlie illand ; and 
 that there would be a general review there. I'he fqua- 
 dron of Matavai was foon after in motion ; and after 
 parading for Ibme time about the bay, aflembleJ afiiore, 
 the middle of it. Captain Oook now went in 
 
 near 
 
 his boat to take a furvey of them. 
 
 What they call their war canoes, which are thofe 
 with flages, on which they light, amount to about 
 (ixty in number ; there are nearly as many more of a 
 fmaller (ize. The Captain was ready to have attend^l 
 them to Oparre ; but the chiefs foon after formed a re- 
 folution, that they would not move till the next day. 
 This appeared to be a fortunate delay, as it afforded 
 him fome opportunity of getting fome infight into their 
 manner of fighting. He therefore defired Otoo to give 
 orders, that fome of them fhould go through the necef- 
 (ary manoeuvres. Accordingly, two of them wero 
 ordered out into the bay ; in one of which Otoo, Cap- 
 tain Cook, and Mr. King, embarked, and Omai went 
 on board ':he other. As foon as they had got fufficient 
 fea-room, they faced, advanced, and retreated by turns, . 
 as quick as their rowers could paddle. In the mean- 
 time, the warriors on tlie ftages flpurifhed their wea- 
 pons, and played a variety of antlcksj which could an^ 
 fwer no other purpofe than that of roufmg their pafTions,: 
 to prepare them for the onfet. Otoo flood by the fide 
 of one ftage, giving the neceflary orders, when to ad-, 
 vance, and when to retreat. Great judgment, and x 
 very quick ^ye, fecmed requifite in this department, to. 
 feize every advantage, and to avoid every difadvantage... 
 At length, after feveral times advancing to, and re- 
 treating from each other, the two canoes clofed, (lagc 
 to ftage ; and after a fevere, thpugh ihort conflidt, all 
 
 G 3 the 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 ii 
 
126 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 the troops on Otoo's ft age were fuppofed to be killed^ 
 and Omai and his aflbciates boarded them, when in- 
 ftantJy Otoo, and all the padlers in his canoe, leaped 
 into the fea, as if reduced to the neceffity of preferv- 
 ing their lives by fwimming. 
 
 According to Omai's information, their naval en- 
 gagements are not always conducted in this manner. 
 TTiey fometimes lafh the two veflels together, head to 
 head, and fight till all the warriors on one fide or the 
 other are killed. But this clofe combat is never prac- 
 tifed, except when the contending parties are deter- 
 mined to conquer or die. Indeed, one or the other 
 muft infallibly happen ; for they never give quarters, 
 unlefs it be to reCerve their pri loners for a more cruel 
 death the day following. 
 
 All the power and ftrength of thefe iflands lie folely 
 in their navies. A general engagement on land we ne- 
 ver heard of here ; and all their decifrve battles are 
 fought on the water. 
 
 ■ When the time and place of battle ; Sxed upon by 
 both parties, the preceding day and night are fpent in 
 feafting and diverfions. "When the morning ap- 
 proaches, they launch the canoes,, make every necef- 
 fary preparation, and, with the day, begin the battle ; 
 the fate of which, in general, decides the difpute. 
 The vanquifhed endeavour to fave themfelves by a pre- 
 cipitate flight; and thofewho reach the fhore fly, with 
 their friends, to the mountains ; for the viftors, before 
 their fury abates, fpare neither the aged, nor women, 
 nor children. They ailemble the next day, at the 
 morai, to return thanks to the ecitooa for the vidtory, 
 and offer up the flain and the prifoners as facriflces. 
 A treaty is then fet on foot ; and the conquerors ufually 
 obtain their own terms ; by which large diftridts of 
 land, and even whole iflands, fometimes change their 
 owners. Omai faid he was once taken a prifoner by 
 the men of Bolabola, and condu6l:ed to that ifland, 
 where he and many others would have fuffered death 
 the next day, had they not been fortunate enough to 
 cfcape in the eight. 
 
 .V This 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 t2J 
 
 in- 
 )ed 
 rv- 
 
 Thls mock fight being over, Omai put on his fuit of 
 armour, mounted a ftage in one of the canoes, and^ 
 thus equipped, was paddled all along the (hore of the. 
 bay, that every one might have a pei fe(5l view of him. 
 His coat of mail, however, did not engage the atten- 
 tion of the multitude fo much as was expected. The 
 novelty was in a great degree loil upon foil^e of them, 
 who haJ Teen a part of it before ; and there were others, 
 who had conceived fuch a dillike to Omai, fiom his 
 folly and imprudence at this place, that they would 
 hardly look at any thing that was exhibited by him, 
 however fmgular and new. 
 
 Otoo and his father came on board in the morning 
 of the 22d, to know when Captain Cook propofed fail- 
 ing, lor, hearing that there was a good harbour at 
 Eimeo, he had informed them that he (liould viiit 
 that iiland on his pafl*age to Huaheine; and they pro- 
 poled to accompany him, and that their Aeet mould 
 fail at the fame time, to reinforce Towha, Being 
 ready to take his departure, he fubmitted to them the 
 appointment of the day, and the Wednefday follow* 
 ing was determined upon; when he was to receive oti 
 board Otoo, his father, mother, and the whole family.. 
 Thefe points being agreed on, the Captain propofed 
 immediately fetting out for Oparre, where all the 
 fleet was to ailemble this day, and to be reviewed. 
 
 As Captain Cook was getting into his boat, new^ 
 arrived that a treaty had been concluded between 
 Towha and Maheine, and Towha's fleet had returned 
 to Attahooroo. From this unexpected event, the^war 
 canoes inftead of rendezvoufmg at Oparre, were or- 
 dered to their refpedVive diftridls. Captain Cook, how- 
 ever, followed Otoo to Oparre, accompanied by Mr. 
 Xing and Omau Soon after their arrival, a mefleng^ 
 arrived from Eimeo, ^nd related the conditions of thfe 
 peace; Thfe' terms being difadvantageous to Otaheite^, 
 Otoo was feverely cenfured, whofe delay, in fending 
 reinforcements^ had obliged Towha to fubmit to a 
 difgraceful accommodation. It was even Currently re- 
 ported^ that Towha, refenting the iFeatment hehad 
 
 G 4 received. 
 
 
 I 
 
 I}: 
 
 
\ 
 
 128 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 received, had declared, that immediately after Captain 
 .Coolf's departure, he would joing his forces to thofe 
 .of Tiaraboo, and attack Otoo. This called upon 
 the Captain to declare, that he was determined to 
 efpoufe the intereft of his friend; and that whoever 
 prefumed to attack him, Ihould experience the weight 
 of his difpleafure when he returned to their ifland. 
 
 This declaration probably had the defired efFe(5V, 
 and if Towha did entertain any fuch hoftile intention 
 at firfl, we heard no more of the reports Whappai, 
 the father of Otoo, highly difapproved of tlie peace, 
 and cenfured Towha for concluding it. This old man 
 wifely confidered that Captain Cocks going with them 
 to Ei»ieo, might have been of Angular fervice to their 
 caufe, though he fhould not interfere in the quarrel. 
 .He therefore concluded, that Otoo had adled pru- 
 dently in waiting for the Captain, though it prevented 
 his giving that early aijiilance. to Towha which he 
 
 |:Xpe^ed. ^.y ^ : ■ :,.,,,,•.,.,; in ?i^r,i^;. 'pl 
 
 ^, .x\s our friends knew- that vc were upon the point 
 of failing, they all paid us.a vifjt the 26th, and brouglu 
 more hogs with them ths|n we wanted; for having no 
 fait left to preferve any, we had full y fufficient for our 
 prefent ufe. . , . ,,„.,.#,.*.' 
 
 Captain Cook accompanied Otoo the next day to 
 Oparre ; and . before he left it took a furvey of tlie 
 cattle, and poultry whiclv he had configned to his 
 friend's care. Every thing was in a promifmg way, and 
 feemed properly attended to. Two of the getfe, ^ 
 well as t.iro of the ducks, were fitting, but the peahen 
 and turkey-hen had neither of them begun to lay. 
 He took four goats from Otoo, two of which he in- 
 tended to leave at Ulietea ; ^nd to refer ve the other 
 two for the ufe of any other iil^nds he might touch at 
 in his paflage to the north. 
 
 The following circumflance concerning Otoo will 
 ihew^ that the people of this ifland are capable of mych 
 addrefs and art to accomplifh their purpofes, Amongil 
 other things which Captain Cook had at different times 
 gi y,ea .tQ this . chief, was a fp y i ng glafs*. H^y\ ng been 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN.'. 129 
 
 two or three days poffefled of it, he perhaps grew 
 tired of its novelty, or dilcovered that it could not 
 be of any ufe to him ; he therefore carried it privately 
 to Captain Gierke, telling him, that as he had (hewn 
 great friendship for him, he had got a prefent for hitn 
 which he fuppofed would be agreeable to him. ** But, 
 fays Otoo, Toote muft hot be informed of this, becaufe 
 he wanted it, and I refufed to let him have it.* Ac- 
 cordingly, he put the glafs into Captain Clerke's 
 hands, affuring him at the fame time, that he came 
 honeftly by it. Captain Gierke, at firft, wifhed to be 
 excufed accepting it ; but Otoo infifted upon it that 
 he fhould, and left it with him. A few days after 
 he reminded Captain Gierke of the glafs ; who, though 
 he did not wifh to have it, was yet defirous of obliging 
 Otoo; and thinking that a few axes would be more ac- 
 ceptable, produced foup to give him in exchange, 
 OtoO'immediately exclaimed, " Toote offered me five ^ 
 for it." " Well (fays CaptJn Gierke) if that be thev 
 cafe, you fhall not be a lofer by your friendfhip for 
 me ; you fhall have fix axes." He readily accepted 
 them; but again defired^ that Captain Cook might 
 not be made acquainted with the tranfa6lion. For 
 the many valuable things which Omai had given away 
 he received one good thing in return, this was a very 
 fine double-failins; canoe, completely equipped. Some 
 time before the Captain had made up a fuit of En- 
 glifh colours for him, but he confidcred them as too 
 valuable to be ufed at this time, and therefore patched 
 up a parcel of flags an*^ pendants, to the number of 
 ten or a dozen, which he fpread on different parts of 
 his canoe. This, as might be expe(5led, drew to- 
 gether a great number of people to look at her. Omai's 
 ftreamers wire a mixture of Euglifli, French, Spa-- 
 nifn, and Dutch, being all the Luropean colours he 
 ha<i feeii. He had completely flcd'cd himfelf with 
 cloth rt :d cocoa-nut oil, which are better, and more 
 pjenrlfui at Otaheite tlrin at; any of the Society," 
 lilands; ^fomiich, that th-^y are conGdered as articles 
 of trade. Omai would not have behaved fo incon- 
 
 O 5 ; ^ fiftently, . 
 
 ■JAt 
 
 i4H 
 
^ 
 
 13^ - A y OY ACE TO THE 
 
 i^eXittjf as he did in many inflances, bad it not been 
 for his fitter and brother-in-law, who, together with 
 '^few fele^ acquaintances, engrofledhim to themfelves, 
 ifi order to ftrip him of every article he poflefled. And 
 <hey would certainly have fucceeded, if Captain Cook 
 Ibad not taken the moft ufeful articles of his pro- 
 perty into his poilefllon. This, however, weuld not 
 have faved Omai from ruin, if he had permitted thefe 
 relations of his to have accompanied him to his in- 
 '^ended place of fettlement at Huaheine. This, indeed, 
 was their intention, but the Captain difappointed their 
 farther views of plunder, by forbidding them to appear 
 m that ifland while he continued in that part of the 
 world; and they knew him too well not to comply. 
 
 By caltns, and gentle breezes from the weft, we 
 were detained here fome days longer than we expe(9:ed. 
 All this time the fhips were crowded with our friends, 
 and furrounded by canoes; for none of them would 
 quit the place till we departed. At length, on the 
 29th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, the wind came 
 af eaft, and we weighed anchor. The fhips being un- 
 der fail, to oblige Otoo, and to gratify the curiofity 
 of his people, we fired feven guns, after which all our 
 friends, except him and two or three more, took leave 
 of us with fuch lively marks of forrow and afFedlion, as 
 fufficiently teflified how much they regretted our de- 
 parture. Otoo exprefling a defire of feeing the fhips 
 fail, we made a ftretch out to fea, and then in again im- 
 mediately; when he alfo took his laft farewel, and 
 went afliore in his canoe. • ". 
 
 Captain Cook would not have quitted Otaheite fo 
 foon as he did, if he could have prevailed uporf Omai 
 to fix himfelf there. There was not even a probabi- 
 lity of our being better fupplied with provifions elfe- 
 where than we continued to be Ijere, even at the time 
 of our leaving it. Befides, fuch a friendfhip and con- 
 fidence fubfifted between us and the inhabitants, as 
 could hardly be expedlftd at any other place, and, it 
 was rather extraordinary, had never been once inter- 
 rupted or fufpended by any accident or mifunderftand- 
 
beeii 
 with 
 Ives, 
 And 
 ^ook 
 pro- 
 not 
 thefe 
 
 P A C I F I C . O C E A N. .^ 1^1 
 
 Ing, nor had there been a. iheft committed worthy of 
 notice. 
 
 It may appear extraordinary, that we c^jld neVkt 
 get any diflin(ft account of the time when the Spaniard 
 arrived, the time they flayed, and when they depart^ 
 The more we made inquiry into this matter, the moiSe 
 we were convinced of the incapability of moil of the^ 
 people to remember, calculate, or note the time, wheh- 
 paft events happened, efpecially if for a longer period 
 than eighteen or twenty months. It^ however, aip*- 
 peared, by the infcription upon the crofs, and by the. 
 information of the moft intelligent of the natives, that 
 two fhips came to Oheltepeha in 1774, not long after 
 Captain Cook left Matavai, wliich was in May the 
 fame year. The live flock they left here conlifled of 
 one bull, fome goats, hogs, and dogs, and the male of 
 another animal, which we were afterwards informed- 
 was a ram, and was at this time at Bolabola. 
 1» The hogs are large; have already much improved 
 the breed originally found by us upon the ifland, and, 
 on our late arrival, were very numerous. Goats are 
 alfo in plenty, there being hardly a chief without fome. 
 The dogs that thr Spaniards put afhore are of two 6r 
 three forts : if they had been all hanged, inflead of 
 being left upon. the illand, it would hav been belter 
 for tlie natives. Captain Cook's young ram fell a vic- 
 tim to one of thefe animals. Four Spaniards remained 
 on /hore when thefe fhips left the ifland ; i ^vo of whon*- 
 were prieils, one a fervant, and the other was much 
 carefled among the natives, who diftinguifh him by, 
 the name of Matcema. He feems to 1 ave fo far fin- 
 died, their language, as to have been :' ic to fpeak it to- 
 lerably, and to have been indefatigable in imprfeffing; 
 the minds of the iflander^^with exalted ideas of the 
 greatnefs of . the Spanifli nation, and inducing them to 
 think meanly of that of the Englifh. 
 
 On the 30th of September, at day break, after 
 leaving Otshci re, we llool for the north end . of th6 
 ifland of Eimco, and anclTored in ten farthoms wat^r. 
 Taloo is the name of this harbour : it is on the iichrth 
 
 G 6 Ude- 
 
 ll 
 
 fi 
 
 1 ** ^ 
 
 ■.it • 
 
 ■•^l 
 
iS^ 
 
 <*, 
 
 Y.O,Y A C E TO THE 
 
 (ide of , the iil^nd, at>d in the diflri£t of Oboonohoo, or 
 toonohoo. It runs above two miles between the hills, 
 fouth, Or fouth by e/ift. It is not inferior to any har- 
 bour we have met with in this ocean, both for fecurity 
 and^podnefs of bottom. 
 
 The harbour of Parowroah, on the fame fide of the 
 ifland, is about two miles to the cailward, and is much 
 larger within th^n that of Talc >; but the opening in 
 the reef lies to leeward of the harbour, and is confi- 
 derably narrower. Thefe ftriking defeats muft give 
 the harbour of Taloo a decided preference. 
 
 As foon as we had anchored, great numbers of the 
 inhabitants came aboard our fhios from mere motives 
 of curiofity, for they brought nothing with them for 
 tlie purpofes of barter : butieveral canoes arrived the 
 next morning from more diilant parts, bringing with 
 them an abundant fupply of bread fruit, cocoa nuts, 
 and a few hogs, which were exchanged for beads, nails, 
 and hatchets ; red feathers being not fo much demand- 
 ed here as at Otaheite. , f^>.s,ff ?.,f)t 
 
 On Thurfday the 2d of 06kober, in the morning, 
 Captain Cook received a vifit from Maheine, the chief 
 of the ifland, accompanied by his wife. He approach- 
 ed the fliip with as great caution and deliberation, as 
 if he apprehended mifchief from us, as friends of the 
 Otaheitean* J thefe people having no idea that we can 
 be in friendihip with any one, without adopting his 
 caufe againft his enemies. Captain Cook made them 
 prelents of fuel articles as feemed moft to ftrike their 
 fancy, and, after Jftayiiig about half an hour, they 
 went on fhore. T^cy returned foon after with a large 
 hog, meaning it as a return for the Captain's favour ; 
 but he made them an additional prefent to the full valiioi 
 of it : after which they went on board the Difco\ ery, 
 to vifit Captain Gierke. 
 
 Towards the evening, Captain Cook and Omai 
 mounted on horfeback an^l rode along the fliore. Omai' 
 having forbade the natives to follow us, our train wag 
 not very numerous ; the fear of giving ofience having 
 
 got the better of tjbeir c ur iofity. 
 
 *-.bJvrA,3 ;j-u.7l (r^iW " ■' -^-' ^> *i Havinff 
 
 6 
 g 
 
ir 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN.. .133 
 
 Having made every preparation for failing, we hapl- 
 ed the fhip off into the ilream, in the morning of the 
 6thy intending to put to fea the next day, but a diih- 
 greeable accident prevented it. ^a..>.'^-,., f.I,p 
 
 We had in the day time frnt our goats amore to 
 graze, and, notwithftanding two men had been ap- 
 pointed to look after them, one of them had been flolen 
 this ^evening. This was a confiderable lofs, as it in- 
 terfered with the Captain's views of flocking other 
 iilands with thefe animals; he therefore was deter- 
 mined, if poflible, to recover it. We received intelli- 
 gence the next morning, that it had been conveyed to 
 Maheine, who was at that time in Parowroah harbour. 
 Two elderly men offered their fervices to conduct any 
 of our people to him, in order to bring back the go^t. 
 Accordingly, the Captain difpatched fome of his peo- 
 ple in a boat, charged with a meflage to that c^ief, 
 and infifled on both the goat and the thief oeipc; 
 immediately given up. The goat was brought bjui^ 
 in the evening, but in the interim another was ftolen^ 
 which was with much difficulty recovered, and not till 
 Captain Cook had adlually burnt fome houfes and c^ 
 noes, and threatened other adls of hoflility. ;" *"' ' ^ 
 i At Eimeo the fhips were abundantly fupplied with 
 fire wood. We did not fupply ourfelves with this ar- 
 ticle at Otaheite, as there is not a tree at Matavai but 
 what is ufeful to the inhabitants. We alfo reqeivea 
 here a large fupply of refrefhments in hogs, bread fruit* 
 and cocoa nuts. < . j 
 
 . There is very little difference between the produce 
 of this ifland and that of Otaheite ; but the difference 
 in their women is remarkable. Thofe of Eimeo have «^ 
 dark hue, are low in flature, and have forbidding fea-r 
 tures. ,v , .. ;. 
 
 The appearance of Eimeo bears riot the leall relem- 
 blance to that of Otaheite. The latter being a hilly, 
 country, has little low land, except fome deep vallies, 
 and the flat border that furrounds it near the fea. Eic 
 meo has fleep rugged hills, running in different, direc- 
 tions> leaving^ large yallies, and gently fifuig grounds 
 
 about 
 
 r 
 
 I "I 
 
 i ^i M 
 
 ' m 
 
 f i: 
 
 i<] 
 
 
 ■ M 
 
 J ^- s\ 
 
 ir 
 
 - y 
 
 
134 
 
 A VO\^AGK TO THE 
 
 about their fides. The hills, though' rocky, are gene- 
 rally covered with trees, almofl to the tops. At the 
 bottom of the harbotir of Taloo, the ground gradually 
 rifes to the foot of the hills ; but the flat border on the 
 fides becomes quite Iteep at a fmall diflance from the 
 fea. This renders it a profpe6l fuperior to any thing 
 we faw at Otaheite. Near the place Avhere our ihips 
 were ftatjoned are two large ilones, concerning which 
 feme fuperftitious notions are entertained by the na- 
 tives* They conflder them as brother and jQfter ; that 
 they are Eatooas, or divinities, and that they came 
 from Ulietea by fome fupernatural means. 
 
 On the morning that fucceeded our departure from 
 Eimeoj we faw Huaheine, At twelve o'clock we an- 
 chored at the northern entrance of Owharre harbour, 
 fituate on the weft fide of the ifland. 
 
 T|ie next morning, which was the 13th of Oiftober, 
 Sli tYie principal people of the ifland came to our fhips. 
 This was juft what the Commodore wifhed, as it was 
 ^ow high time to fettle Omai ; and he fuppofed, that 
 the prefence of thefe chiefs would enable him to efFedl 
 it in a fatisfadlory manner. Omai now feemed inclined 
 to eftablifh hlmfelf at Ulietea ; and if he and Captain 
 Cook could have agreed with refpedt to the mode of 
 accomplifhing ^hat defign, the latter ^^Ould have con^ 
 fented to adopt it. His father had been depfived by 
 the inhabitants of Bolabola, when they fubdued Ulie- 
 tea, of fome land in that ifland, and the Captain hoped 
 he ihould be able to get it reflored to the foU without 
 difficulty. For this pbrpbfe it was necefTary that 
 Omai mould be i^p'on amicable terms with thoie who 
 had become mafterS of the ifland; but, he wbuld not 
 liften to any fuch propofail, iind was vhin enough to 
 imagine, that the Captain would make ufe of force to 
 re-inftate him in his forfeited lands. This preventing 
 his being fixed at Ulietea, the Captaih began to con- 
 fider Huaheine as the more proper place, and therefore 
 determined to avail himfelf of th'^ prefence of the chief 
 men of that ifland, and propofe the affair to them* 
 . The Captain now prepared to iti^e a formal vifit to 
 
 Tairee- 
 
',1] ' '■ 
 
 
 «v.:'.' /» 
 
 Gj, : 
 
 i\i'Ji. rLQ \i\vi w -i 
 
 ' r|ir. 
 
 
 
 'ij'-^ 
 
 <;/A<it-n 
 
 .r- -,...; 
 
 f^,T/.e tc. ,, , 
 
 4nijji' 
 
 $iVWC •:' 
 
 ''.;"r on nf''. 
 
 .*.i.t»Ji 
 
 
 ^i^j. 
 
 
 ')i'ii't'r-'; thrv' 
 
 ;?i- 
 
 Of^ta ;».!<=: 
 
 i'ii 
 
 
 •■'> - . . ,.v 
 
 . ■* I, . 
 
 
 i 
 
 -• 'J 
 
 
 |,-.;:^^ 
 
 I ►^^ 
 
 H'^'' 
 
 /iiUO" 
 
 f ■ 
 
 >■ VTAl 
 
 
 |or. 
 
 
 :.J/ 
 
 ^f 
 
*-.?. 
 
 ^Tn n. 
 
 mg 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN* I35 
 
 Talreetareea, the Earee rabie^ or King of the iflandy 
 with a view of introducing this bufmefs* Omai, who 
 was to accompany him, drefled himfelf very properly 
 on the occafion, and provided a handfome prefent for 
 tlie chief himfelf, and another for his Eatooa, Their 
 landing drew moft of the vifitors from our fhips, who, 
 with many others, aflembled in a large houfe. The 
 Captain waited fome time for Taireetareea : but when 
 that chief appeared, he found that his prefence might 
 eafily have been difpenfed with, as he did not exceed 
 ten years of age. Omai began with making his offer- 
 ing to the guds, which confifted of cloth, red feathers, 
 &c. Another offering fucceeded, which was to be 
 given to the gods by the young chief; and, after that, 
 feveral other tufts or red feathers were prefented. The 
 different articles were laid before a prieft, being each 
 of them delivered with a kind of prayer, which was 
 fpoken by one of Omai's friends, though in a great 
 meafure di(5lat^d by himfelf. In thefe prayers he did 
 not forget his friends in England, nor thofe who had 
 conducted him fafe back to his native country. Thefe 
 offerings and prayers being ended, the priefl took each 
 of the articles in order, and, after repeating a prayer, 
 ^nt every one to the moraL 
 
 Thefe religious rites having been performed, Omai 
 feated himfelf by the Captain, who beflowed a pre- 
 fent on the young chief, and received another in re- 
 turn. Some arrangements were next agreed upon, re- 
 lative to the mode of carrying on the intercourfe be- 
 tween us and the iflanders ; and the Captain pointed 
 out the mifchievous confequences that would attend 
 their plundering us, as they had done on former occa- 
 fions. The eflablifhment of Omai was then propofed 
 to the chief? who were aflembled. He iqformed them, 
 that we had conveyed him into our country, where he 
 was Well received by the great King and his Earees^ 
 (chiefs or nobles) and treated during his whole flay 
 with all the marks of regard and afle^ion ; that he had 
 been brought back a^ain, af^er having been enriched, 
 Jby our generofity, with a variety of articles which 
 
 would 
 
 m 
 
 •^ 
 
 
 
 
 «■- 
 r. 
 
 ■i - 
 
 • 
 
 if" 
 
136 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 would be highly beneficial to his countrymen; and 
 that, befides the two horfes which were to continue 
 with him, many other new and ufeful animals had 
 been left at Otaneite, which would fpecdily multiply^ 
 and furnifti a fufiicient number for the ufe of all the 
 neighbouring iflands. He then gave them to under- 
 hand, that it was Captain Cook's earned requeft, that 
 they would give his friend a piece of land, upon which 
 he might build a houfe, and raife provifions for himfelf 
 and fervants ; adding, that if he could not obtain this 
 at Huaheine, either by donation or purchafe, the Cap- 
 toin was refolved to carry him to Ulietea, and eftablilh 
 him there. Thefe topics were dictated to Omai by 
 Captain Cook, who obferved, that what he concluded 
 with, about going to Ulietea, feemed to gain the ap- 
 probation of all the chiefs, and he immediately per- 
 ceived the reafon, Omai had vainly flattered himfelf, 
 that the Captain would ufe force in refloring him to 
 his father's lands in Ulietea, and he had talked at ran-» 
 dom on this fubje(5l to fome of the afTembly, who now 
 expe£^ed that the Captain would aflifl.them in invading 
 Ulietea^ and driving the Bolabolans out of that ifland. 
 It being proper, therefore, that he ftiould undeceive 
 them, he fignified, in the moft decifive manner, that 
 he would neither give them any afliftance in fuch an 
 enterprize, nor would fufFer it to be put in execution 
 while he remained in their feas; and that, if Omai 
 eftablifhed himfelf in Ulietea, he ought to be intro- 
 duced as a friend, and not forced upon the people , of 
 Bolaboia as their conqueror. '^. '*'* -^^.'^ 
 
 This peremptory declaration immediately gave a 
 new turn to the fentiments of the council, one of 
 whom exprefied himfelf to this efFe6t : that the whole 
 iiland 'of Hu^ine, and whatever it contained, were- 
 Captaiiri Codirs ; and that, confequently, he might dif*- 
 pofe of what portion he pleafed to his friend; Omai 
 wkk pleaftd at hearing, this ; thinking that he would be 
 ve^y liberal, and giVe him what was perfedWy fuffi- 
 ci^nt.^ 3ut to make an ofFer of what it would have 
 been imbroiietlto atcc^pt, tho Captain confidered as of- 
 - '' ■ fcring 
 
 fcri 
 
 T' 
 
iPACIFIC OCEAK. 
 
 ^37 
 
 ' . if 
 
 fcring nothing ; and therefore defired that they woold 
 mark out the particular Tpot, and likewile the exzA 
 quantity of land which they intended to aHot for the 
 fettlement. Upon this, fome chiefs, who had already 
 retired from the ailembly, were fent for, and, after a 
 ftiort confultation, the Commodore's requeft was una- 
 nimoufly granted, and the ground immediately fixed 
 upon, adjoining to the houfe where the prefent meet- 
 ing was held. It extended along the fhore of the har- 
 bour about two hundred yards; its depth to the bot- 
 tom of the hill was fom^what more; and a propor- 
 tional part of the hill was compreliendeil in the grant* 
 This aiFair being lettied, a tent was pitched on fliore^ 
 a poll eftabliflied, and the obfervatories ere<Sled. The 
 carpenters of each fhip v^ere alfo now employed in 
 building a fmall houfe for Omai, in which he might 
 fecure the various European commodities that he had 
 in his po£eiIion ; at the fame time fome of our people 
 were occupied in making a garden for his ufe^ planting 
 vines, (haddocks, melons, pine apples, and the feeds 
 of other vegetable articles ; all, which were in a floiv- ] 
 rifhing ftate before our departure from the ifland. 
 
 Omai began now to pay a ferious attention ta his 
 own affairs, and heartily repented of his ill-judged 
 prodigality at Otaheite. He found at Huaheine^ a 
 brother, a fifter, and a brother-in-law, the fifter hav- 
 ing been married : but thefe did not plunder hhn, as 
 his other relations had lately done. It appeared, how- 
 ever, that though they had too much honefty and 
 good nature to do him any injury, they were of two 
 little confequence in the iiland to do him any real for- 
 vices, liaving neither authority nor influence to proted): 
 his perfon. Thys circumflanced, he ran great rifque 
 of being Aripped of every thing he had received from 
 us, as ioon as he £h,ould ceafe to be within the reach y 
 of our powerful protedtion* ,, ;y 
 
 He was now 911 the point of being placed' in tns } 
 
 very ilngular fitu^tion, of being tbe only rich nian in 
 
 the community of which he was to be a member. And 
 
 as he had> by t^is coniie6lioa witfa. us» made himlelf 
 
 . . mafter 
 
 '*"i 
 
 \ 
 
 :\ 
 
 5 s r 
 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 ._J 
 
I 
 
 138 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 mafter of an accumulated quantity of a fpecies of trea* 
 fure which his countrymen could not create by any 
 art or induAry of their own^ it was natural to imagine, 
 that while ail were defirous of fharing in this envied 
 wealth, all would be ready to join in attempts to ftrip 
 its lbl« proprietor. As the moft likely means of pre- 
 venting this, Captain Cook advifed him to diftribute 
 fome of his moveables among two or three of the prin- 
 cipal chiefs, who, on being thus gratified themfeJves, 
 might be induced to favour him with their patronage, 
 and fhield him from the injuries of others : he pro- 
 mifed to follow this advice ; and we heard before we 
 failed, that this pru(]ent Aep had been taken. The 
 Captain, however, not confiding entirely to the ope- 
 rations of gratitude, had recourfe to the more forcible 
 and efFe6tual mode of intimidation, taking every op- 
 portunity of notifying to the inhabitants^ that it was 
 his intention to make another vifit to their ifland, after 
 being abfe^t the ufnal time; and. that, if he did not 
 •£nd his friend in the fame ftate of fecurity in vhich he 
 ihould leave him at prefent, all thofe who ^^.r w Id then 
 uppear to have been his enemies, might expe6t to be- 
 come the objeAs of his refentment. 
 ^ While we remained in this harbour, we carried the 
 bread on fhore to clear it of vermin. The number of 
 cockroaches that infefled the iliip at this time i« almoft 
 •incredible. The damage we fuftained from them was 
 very confiderable, and every attempt to deftroy them 
 proved fruidefs. If any kihd of food was expofed for 
 •a few minutes, it was covered with thefe noxious in- 
 fe^6ls, who foon pierced it full of holes, fo that it re- 
 fembled in honeycomb* They proved fufficiently dfe- 
 ftru6tive to birds, which had been ftuffed for cUriofi- 
 ties,» and w^re (b fond of ink, that they eat out the 
 writings on the labels, faftened'to diflferent articles; 
 and the only thing which preferved books from their 
 railages was the ciofenefs of the bfinding, which pre- 
 %eft ted thefe dsvourf^^s ftorh infinuating themfelves be- 
 t%«reenthe leaveis. '» *^- ^-/f^ • ■' '^-'.'/i v .:i- ;t>.M -^ : ;. 
 ' Omai*$hif^k%eltk^'h<jm4mii^^m{hedi niany of Ms 
 T »»^ff* vi. moveables 
 
PACIFIC O C E A N. « I39 
 
 moveables were carried aihore on the 26th ; amongd 
 other articles was a box of toys, which greatly pleated 
 rhe gazing multitude : but as to his plates, difhes, 
 drinking mugs, glailes, pots, kettles, and the whole 
 train of domeftic apparatus, fcarce one of his country- 
 men would even look at them. Omai himfelf began 
 to thmk that they would be of no fervice to him ; that 
 u baked hog wa? more favory eating than a boiled one ; 
 that a plantain leaf made as good a nlat^ or difh as pew- 
 ter ; and that a mcoa-nut fhell was as convenient a 
 goblet as one of our mugs. He therefore difpofed of 
 moft of thele articles of Englifh furniture among the 
 crew of our fhips ; and received from them, in return, 
 hatchets, and other iron implements, which had a 
 more intrinllc value in this part of the world. Among 
 the numerous prefents beftowed upon him in England, 
 fireworks had not been omitted ; fome of which wc 
 exhited in the evening of the 28th, before a great mul- 
 tit\ide of people, who beheld them with a mixture of 
 pleafure and apprehenfion. Thofe which remained 
 were put in order, and left with Omai, purfuant to 
 their original deft inat ion. 
 
 Omai was no fooner fettled in his new habitation, 
 than Captain Cook begin to think of departing from 
 Huaheine, and got every thing off from the fhore this 
 evening, except a goat big with kid, and a horfe and 
 mare, which were left in pof?eflion of our friend, wh© 
 was now to be finally feparated from ns. We alfo 
 gave him a boar and two fows of the Englifh breed, 
 and he had got two or three fows c'l his own. The 
 horfe had been with the mare during our continuance at 
 Otaheite ; fo that the introdudlion of a breed of horfes 
 into thefe iflands has probably fucceeded by this valua*» 
 ble prefent. v. .*> > 
 
 :• With regard to Omai's domeftic eftablifhment, he 
 had procured at Otaheite four or five toutous, ^r peo^ 
 pie of the lower clafs ; two young New Zealander^ ret- 
 milined with him ; and his brother, and feveral others, 
 joined him at Huaheine ; fb that his family now con- 
 fifted of ten or eleven peribns, if that can juftly be de- 
 
 Pf^^ninated 
 
 m 
 
 I . 
 
14© 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 nomiriatetl a farriily to which not one female belongeck 
 The houfe which our people eredted for him was twen- 
 ty-four feet by eighteen, and rbout ten feet in height. 
 It was compofed of boards, which were the fpoils of 
 our military operations at Eimeo; and, in tlie con- 
 itruction of it, as few nails as poiTible were ufed, lelt 
 there might be an inducement, from the defireof irorv, 
 to pull it down. It was agreed upon, that, imme- 
 diately after our departure, he fhould eretEl a fpacious 
 houfe after the mode of his own country; one end of 
 .which was to be brought over that which we liad 
 built, fo as entirely to enclofe it for greater fecurity. 
 In this work fome of the chiefs of the illand prgmiled 
 to contribute their afliftance ; and if tlie intended 
 building ihould cover the ground which was marked 
 out for it, few of the houfes in Huaheine will exceed 
 •it. in magnitude. • - ^ 
 
 Omai's European weapons confided of a fowling 
 piece, two pair of piftols, feveral fwords or.cutlalfes, a 
 mufquet, bayonet, and a car touch box. After he had 
 got on fliore whatever appertained to him, he had the 
 two Captains, and moft of the officers of both, our 
 ^iiiips, two or three times to dinner ; on which occa- 
 iions, >his table was plentifully fupplied with the beft 
 prcvifions that the ifland could afford. Before we iet 
 fail, the Commodore caufed the following infcriptioa 
 to be cut upon the outfideof his houfe : ,y>' 
 
 ^^'^^'^Veorxitts Tert'ius, Re^^ 2 NavcmUnSy 1 777. ' ''• 
 :^mr. ' J^ I Refolutlon, Jac. Cook, Pr. '"; 
 
 .,#,n Naves [ j)if,,.,,,yl ^^^ cierke, Pr. ' ^^-- 
 
 On Sunday, the -^ 2d of November, at four o'clock, 
 we took the advantage of an cafterly breeze, and failed 
 out of Owharre harbour. Mofl of our friends con- 
 tinued on board till ooir veflels were under fail, when 
 Captain Cook> to gratify their curiofity^ ordered five 
 gutis to be £red; then they all left us, except Omai, 
 who remained till we were out at fea. We had come 
 to fail by a hawfer failened to the (hore, whici), in 
 caiUng the ihip, parted, being cut by the rockS) and 
 
 I J. 
 
 its 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 'jii 
 
 i4r 
 
 its outer end was ].(t behind; it therefore became ne- 
 ceflary to difpatcii a boat to bring it on board. In this 
 boat, our friend Omai went afliore, aftei* having taken 
 a very afFedtionate tarewel of all the officers. He I'uf- 
 tained this parting with a rtianly fortitude, till became 
 to Captain Cook, when, notwithflanding all his ef- 
 forts, he was unable to fupprefs his tears ; and he wept 
 all the time in going afhore, as Mr. King, who accom- 
 panied him in the boat, afterwards informed the Cap- 
 tain. - L'.ra-.: _ ; -■'. ij: 
 
 Omai's return, and the fubftantial proofs he carried 
 back with him of Britifh liberality, encouraged many 
 to offer themfelves as volunteers to accompany us to 
 Pretarie, Captain Cook took every opportunity of ex- 
 preffmg his fixed determination to reje<5t all applica- 
 tions of that kind. Omai, who was ambitious of re- 
 maining the only great traveller among them, being 
 afraid left the Captain might be prevailed upon to 
 place others in a fituation of rivalling him, frequently 
 reminded him of the declaration of the Earl of Sand- 
 wich, that no others of his countrymen were to come 
 to England. 
 
 '■ As foon as tlie boat in which Omai was conveyed 
 on fhore had returned with the remainder of the haw- 
 fer to the ftiip, we lioifted her in, and ftood over for 
 Ulietea without delay. The next morning, which 
 was the 3d of November, we made fail rourtd the ibu- 
 thern end of that ifland, for the harbour of Ohama- 
 We were no fooner within the harbour, than 
 
 neno. 
 
 our fhips were furrounded with canoes, filled with the 
 natives, who l)rought a fupply of fruit and hogs, 
 which they exchanged for our commodities. 
 
 About a fortnight after we had arrived at Ulietea, 
 Omai dilpatched two of his people in a canoe with in- 
 telligence, that he continued undifturbed by the inha- 
 bitants of Huaheine, and that every thing fnccfe^ded 
 with him, except that his goat had died in kidding. 
 I'his information was accompanied with a requeft,' 
 that. Captain Cook would fend him another goat, iritl 
 alio two 4xes. Pleafed wifh this additional oppoitii'* 
 . t|- * • nity 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 . t 
 
 ^m 
 (.«? 
 
 in 
 
 (ii 
 ill 
 
 
 

 m\ 
 
 m k 
 
 '!.. 
 
 142 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 . nity of ferving his friend, the Captain fent back the 
 meilengers to Huaheine, oi) the i8th, with the axes> 
 and a male and female kid. 
 
 On Wednefday the 19th, the Commodore delivered 
 to Captain Clerke his inftrudlions how to proceed in 
 cafe of feparation after quitting thefe illands. The 
 purport of thefe inftru£tions was as follows: that 
 whereas the paflage from the Society Ifles to the nor- 
 thern coaft of America was of confiderable length, and 
 as a part of it muft be performed in the depth of 
 winter, when boifterous weather muft be expected, 
 which might perhaps occafion a feparation, Captain 
 Clerke fhould take all poffible care to prevent this ; 
 but if the two fliips (hould chance to be feparated, he, 
 after fearchlng for Captain Cook, and not finding him 
 in five days, was to proceed towards the coaft of New 
 Albion, and endeavour to fall in with it in the lati- 
 tude of 45**,' where he was to cruize for him ten days; 
 and not ieeing him in that time, he was to put into 
 the firft convenient harbour in or to the north of that 
 latitude, to obtain refrefhments and to take in wood 
 and water: that, during his continuance in port, he 
 was conftantly to look out for Captain Cook, and if 
 thekitter did not join him before the ift of April fol- 
 lowing, he was to proceed northward to the latitude 
 of 56°, where, at I'uch a diftance from the coaft as 
 did not exceed fifteen leagues, he was to cruize for 
 him till the lOth of May, a^d not finding him, was 
 to proceed on a northerly courfe, and attempt to dif- 
 cover a pafiage into the Atlauc Ocean, either through 
 Hudfon's or Baffin's Bays, as directed by the inftruc- 
 tions of the Board of Admiralty: that if he fhould 
 fail in thofe endeavours, he was to repair to the har- 
 bour of St. Peter and St. Paul in Katntfchatka, and 
 pafs the winter there; but that if lie could not procure 
 jefrefliments at that port, he was at liberty to go 
 where he lliould think proper, leaving with the Gover- 
 nor, before his departure^ an account of his deftina- 
 tion, to be delivered to Captain Cook on his arrival; 
 ao4i^||^at ikjoi tiifi ipring of the y^r fdlowing (1779) 
 y.iA he 
 
 I'M 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 145 
 
 he was to return to the port above mentioned : that if 
 he then received no farther orders from Captain Cook, 
 fo as to juftify his purfuing any other meafures than 
 thofe which were pointed out in the inflrudlions of 
 the Lords of the Admiralty, hts future proceedings 
 were to be dirc(5led by them ; and that in cafe of being 
 prevented by ilhiei's or any other caufe, from carrying 
 theCe, and the inflrudiions of their Lordfhips into 
 execution, he was to leave them with the officer who 
 was next in command. ?* 
 
 ♦ While we lay moored to the fliore, we fcrubbed both 
 the fides and bottoms, &c. of our veflels, and alfo fixed 
 feme plates of tin under the binds. Thefe plates Cap- 
 tain Cook received from the ingenious Mr. Pelham, 
 Secretary to the Coramiffioners for vidtualling the 
 royal navy,' for the purpofe of trying whether tin 
 would fucceed as well as copper, in iheathing the bot- 
 toms of fhips. ■jT\y i..i--ti, > J 
 
 On Thurfday the 27th, wc took down our obfer- 
 vatories, and carried on board whatever we had on 
 fliore;. we then unmoored the lliips, and moved a 
 little way down the harbour, where we anchored again* 
 In the fucceeding night, the wird blew in hard fquallsy 
 which were accompanied with heavy iliowers of rain. 
 In one of thefe fqualls, the cable by which the Refo- 
 lution was riding at anchor, parted; but as we had 
 another anchor ready to let go, the fliip was quickly 
 brought up again. 
 
 The wind continuing conflantly between the north 
 and weft, kept us in the harbour till Sunday the 7th. 
 of December ; when, at eight o'clock in the morning, 
 we weighed and made fail with a light breeze at the 
 north-eaft point. During the preceding week we had 
 been vidted by perfons from all quarters of the iiland, 
 vvhaairorded us a plentiful lupply of hogs and green 
 plantains; fo that the time we remained wind bound 
 in the harbo«r was not totally loft ; for green plan- 
 tains are an excellent iuccedaneum for bread, and will 
 keep good for two or three weeks. Befides being fur-» 
 
 W' 
 
 s 
 
 *'■ 
 
 1 
 
 ► 1, 
 
 f.i 
 
 \ 
 
 1 
 
 
 H^ 
 
 , 
 
 n-^ 
 
 
 --?' 
 
 
 :r 
 
 Hi 
 
 ,^ 
 
 
 :1 
 
 1 
 
 V' 
 
 .■ 
 
 
 U 
 
144 A VOY'AGS TO THE 
 
 nlfhed with thefe provfions, we alfo took in plenty of 
 wood and water. • - 
 
 The Tllieteans appeared to be, in general, fmaller 
 and more black than the natives of the adjacent iflands, 
 and feemed alfo lefs orderly, which may, perhaps^ be 
 owing tor their having become fubje6t to the inhabi- 
 tants of Bolabob. Oreo, their chief, is only a kind 
 of deputy of the Bolabolan monarch; and the con- 
 queft feems to have diminifhed the number of fubor- 
 dinate chiefs refident araong them; they are, therefore, 
 lefs immediately under the eye of thofe whofe intereft 
 it is to enforce a proj)er obedience. Though Ulietea 
 is now reduced to this ftate of humiliating dependence, 
 it was formerly, as we were informed, the moil emi- 
 nent of this group of iflands, and was probably the 
 firft feat of government ; for we were told, that the 
 prefent royal family of Otaheite derives its defcent 
 from that which ruled here before the late revolution. 
 The dethroned king of Ulietea, whofe name is Ooroo, 
 refides at Huaheine, furnifhing in his own perfon, an 
 inftance not only of the inftability of power, but alfo 
 of the refpeft paid by the^e iflanders to particular fa- 
 milies of princely rank; for they allow Ooroo to re- 
 tain all the enfigns which are appropriated by them 
 to royalty, notwithftanding his having been deprived 
 of his dominions. We obfervcd a limilar inftiuice of 
 this during our ftay at Ulietea, where one of our oc- 
 cafionaJ vifitants was Captain Cook's old friend Orec, 
 late chief of Huaheine. He flill maintaineil his coii- 
 fequence, and was conftantly attended by a numerous 
 retinue. /• • - - ..'i w ; i 
 
 Having taken our leave of Ulietea, we fleered for 
 BoJabola. Out pincipal realbn for vifiting this ifland, 
 was to procure one of the anchors which had been 
 loft at Otaheite hy Monfieur de Bougainville, Capt. 
 Cook 'having obtained this anchor by means of pre- 
 fents, he returned gn board, hoifted in the boats, and 
 made fail to the Jiorth. Had we remained there till 
 the next day, we would probably, have been fupplied 
 with iplenty of provilions; and the natives would, 
 
 doubt- 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 US 
 
 red for 
 
 fland, 
 
 been 
 
 Capt. 
 
 : prc- 
 
 aml 
 
 doubtlefs, be idifappointed wheii they we found were 
 gone: but having already a good ftock of hogs and fruit 
 onboard, and not many articles left to purchafe more, 
 v,e had no inducement to defer the profecution of our 
 voyage. 
 
 " Oteavanooa, the harbour of Bolabola, fltuated on 
 the weft fide of the ifland, is very capacious; and 
 though we did not enter it, Captain Cook had the 
 fatisfa^lion of being informed, by perfons employed by 
 him for that purpofe, that it was a very proper place 
 for the reception of fhips, 
 
 Confidering the fmall extent of Bolabola, being only 
 eight leagues in circumference, it is remarkable that 
 its people ihould have been able to conquer Ulie- 
 tca and Otaha; the former of which illands is more 
 than double its lize. 
 
 When the inhabitants are not difturbed by inteftine 
 broils, which has been the cafe for feveral yearjs pail, 
 their produ(5lions are numerous and plentiful. If we 
 h;id poffefled a greater alfortment of goods, and a 
 proper (juantity of ialr, we might have falted as much 
 pork as would have been fufficient to laft both fliips 
 ahnoit a year. But we quite exhaufted our trading 
 commodities at the Friendly Illands, Otaheite, and its 
 neighbourhood. Our axes, in particular, were nearly 
 gone, with which alone, hogs were in general, to be 
 purchafed. "J'he \^\t that remained on board, was not 
 more than was requifite for curing fifteen puncheons 
 of meat. - ■ » .^ ' » . , 
 
 It is, in a manner, incumbent on the Europeans to 
 pay them occalional vifits (once in three or four years) 
 to fupply them with thofe articles, which we, by 
 introducing, have given them a predilection for» The 
 want of fuch fupplies may be feverely felt when it is 
 too late to return ^o their old imperfedl contrivances, 
 which they now defpife and difcard. When the iron 
 tools, with wliich we have furniftied them, are worn 
 out, their own will be almoll forgotten. A ftone 
 liatchet is now as great a curiofity among them, as an 
 iron one wa;i fcycn or eight years ago; and a chilTcI 
 
 H made 
 
 i - f ] 
 
 u 
 
 
 III 
 
™WBHI^HI«BI 
 
 146 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 made of bone or ftone is no where to be feen. Spike 
 nails have been fubftituted in the room of the latter 
 articles, and they are weak enough to imagine, that 
 their ftore of them is inexhauftible, for they were no 
 longer fought after. 
 
 Knives happened at this time to be in high eftima- 
 tion at Ulietea; and axes and hatchets bore unrivalled 
 fway at all the iflands. Refpedling articles merelv or- 
 namental, thefe iflanders are as changeable as tlie moft 
 poliflied European nations ; for, an article which may 
 be prized by them to-day, may, perhaps, be rejedted 
 to-morrow, as a faftiion or whim may alter. But our 
 iron implements are fo evidently ufeful, that they muft 
 continue to be high in their eftimation. 'I'hey would 
 indeed be miferable, if they fliould ceafe to receive fup- 
 plies of what appears neceflary to their comfortable ex- 
 igence; as they are deftitute of the materials, and ig- 
 norant of the art of fabricating them. 
 
 Mr. Anderfon relates, that the greatefl part of the 
 year, the wind blows from between ealt-fouth-eaft, 
 and eaft -north-eaft. It fometimes blows with confi- 
 derable force, and is called by the natives maaraec. 
 
 The fouth-eafl part of Otaheite affords one of the 
 moil luxuriant profpe6ls in the univerfe. The hills 
 are high, ileep, and craggy, but they are covered to 
 the very fummits with trees and flirubs; the rocks 
 feeming to poflefs the property of producing their ver- 
 dant clothing. The lower land and vallies teem with 
 various produdlions, that grow with exuberant vigour, 
 and convey to the mind of the beholders, an idea, that 
 no country upon earth can vie with this in the ftrength 
 and beauty of vegetation; nature has been equally li- 
 beral in diflributing rivulets, which glide through 
 every valley, dividing, as they approach the fea into 
 feveral branches, fertilizing the lands through which 
 they run. 
 
 The habitations of the natives are irregularly fcat- 
 tered upon the flat land ; and many of them, along the 
 fliore, afforded us a delightful fcene from our /hips, 
 efpeciiilly as the fea witliin the reef is perfe^^ly ftill, 
 
 and 
 
 ?n 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 H7 
 
 y fcat- 
 
 ng the 
 
 Ihips', 
 
 ftill, 
 
 and 
 
 and affords at all times a fafe navigation for the inha- 
 bitants, who are often feen pafling and repafflng in 
 their canoes. 
 
 The bread-fruit tree is never planted, but fprings 
 from the roots of the old ones, which fpread themfelves 
 near the furface of the ground. The principal trees 
 are the cocoa nut and plantain; the firfl of which re- 
 quires no attention after it appears a foot or two abovo 
 the ground : but the plantain requires fome care in the 
 cultivation ; for about three months after it fhcots up, 
 'fk it begins to bear fruit, during which time it puts 
 forth young flioots, which fupply a ^-^cceflion of 
 fruit ; the old flocks being cut down a* the fruit is 
 taken off. " ■ " 
 
 On our arrival here, we were ftruck with the re- 
 markable contraft between the inhabitants of Tonga* 
 taboo, and thole of Otahelte; the former being of a 
 robuft make, and dark colour, and the latter having a 
 diftinguilhed delicacy and whitenefs, Tliat difference, 
 however, did not immediately preponderate in favour of 
 the Otaheitans; and when it did, it was, perhaps, 
 occafioncd more by our becoming accuftomed to them ; 
 the marks, which had recommended the others, be- 
 ginning now to be forgotten. 
 
 The women, however, of Otaheite, poflefs all thofe 
 delicate charavSteriftics, which in many countries dif- 
 tinguifh them from the other fex. The men wear 
 their beards long here, and their hair confiderably 
 longer than at Tongataboo, which gave them a very 
 different appearance. The Otaheitans are timid and 
 lickle; they are not fo mufcular and robuft as the 
 Friendly Iflanders, arifing, perhaps, from their being 
 accuftomed to lefs adion; the fuperior fertility of 
 their country enabling them to lead a more indoltnt 
 life. 
 
 As perfonal endowments are in high eflimation 
 among them, they have various methods of improving; 
 them, according to their ideas of beauty. Among the 
 Erreoes^ or unmarried men, efpecially thofe of fome 
 confequence, it is cuftomary to undergo a kind of phy- 
 
 H 2 fical 
 
 ui 
 
 :;' 
 
 
 
 » ' ; 
 
 r-i 
 
 • i: 
 
148 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 fical operation, to render them fair; which is done by 
 continuing a month or two in the houfe, wearing a 
 great quantity of cloaths the whole time, and eating 
 nothing but bread fruit, which they fay is remarkably 
 e£[icacious in whitening the ikin. 
 
 Nine-tenths, at leaft of their common diet, confill 
 of vegetable food, and the mahee, or fermented bread- 
 fruit. To this temperate courfe of life, may, perhaps, 
 he attributed their having fo few difeafes among them. 
 They (hew an opennefs and generofity of difpofition 
 upon all occafions, Omai, indeed, has frequently faid, 
 that they exercife cruelty in punifhing their enemies, 
 and torment them with great deliberation; fometimes 
 tearing out fmall pieces of flefli from different parts of 
 the body ; at other times plucking out the eyes ; then 
 cutting off the nofe; and laftly, completing the bufi- 
 nefs, by opening the belly. But this is only on very 
 extraordinary occafions. - 
 
 ,., Under any misfortune, after the critical moment is 
 part, they never labour under the appearance of anxiety. 
 Care never produces a wrinkle on their brow; even the 
 ;approach of death does not deprive them of their vi- 
 vacity. I have ieen them, when on the brink of the 
 grave by difeafe, and when preparing to attack the 
 enemy; but, in neither of thefe cafes have I ever ob- 
 ferved their countenances overclouded with melan- 
 choly or dread. 
 
 j Difpofed, as they naturally are, to dire6l their ahns 
 to what will afford them eafe or pleafure, all their 
 amufements tend to excite their amorous pafiions; and 
 their fongs, with which they are greatly delighted, are 
 
 " directed to the fame purpofe. A conflant fucceflion 
 of fenfual enjoyments muft, however, cloy; and they 
 occafionally varied them to more refined fubje6ts; they 
 chanted their triumphs in war, and their amufements 
 
 ^ in peace : their travels and adventures, and the peculiar 
 advantages of their own ifland. 
 
 Though the language of Otaheite feems radically 
 the fame as that of New Zealand and the Friendly 
 lilands, it has not that guttural pronunciation, and is 
 
 pruned 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. » 149 
 
 pruned of fome of the confonants, with which thofe 
 diale6ls abound; which has rendered it like the manners 
 of the inhabitants, foft and foothing. It abounds with 
 beautiful and figurative expreflions; and is fo copious, 
 that they have above twenty different names for the 
 bread fruit, as many for the taro root, and half that 
 number for the cocoa nut. 
 
 They have one expreffion correfponding exactly 
 with the phrafeology of the Scriptures, viz. " Year- 
 ning of the bowels." They ufe it upon every occa- 
 fion, when afFe6led by the pafHons; conflantly refer- 
 ring pain from grief, defire, and other afFe<Slions, to 
 the bowels, as the feat of it ; where they imagine all 
 operations of the mind are alfo performed. 
 
 In the arts they are extremely deficient; yet they 
 pretend to perform cures in furgery, which our know- 
 ledge in that branch has not enabled us to imitate. 
 Simple fra6lures are bound up with fplints ; but, if a 
 part of the bone be loit, they infert, between the frac- 
 tured ends, a piece of wood made hollow to fupply its 
 place. The rapaoc^ or furgeon, infpe6ls the wound 
 in about five or fix days, when he finds the wood is^ 
 partly covered by the growing flefh ; and, in as many 
 more days, vifits the patient a fecond time, when it 
 is generally completely covered ; and when he has ac- 
 quired fome flrength, he bathes in the water and is- 
 reftored. - ^ - 
 
 Fra6tures of the fpine, they know, are mortal; and 
 they alfo know, from experience, in what particular 
 parts of the body wounds prove fatal. Their phyfical 
 knowledge feems yet more limited, becaufe, perhaps, 
 their difeafes are fewer than their accidents. 
 7 A famine frequently happens in this ifland, not- 
 withftanding its extreme fertility, in which many peo- 
 ple are faid to perifh. Whether this calamity be owing 
 to the fcanty produce of fome feafons, to over popula- 
 tion, or to wars, I have not been fufficiently informed ; 
 but it has taught them to exercife the flrideft oeconomy 
 even in the times of plenty. 
 
 H3 '^ * A very 
 
 
 y-i' 
 
 w\ 
 
 I ' 
 
» V ' 
 
 150 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 A very fmall portion of animal food is enjoyed by 
 the lower clafs of people ; and if, at any time, they 
 obtain any, it is either fifli, fea-eggs, or other marine 
 productions; for pork hardly ever falls to their Ihare. 
 Only the Eree dc hot is able to afford pork every day ; 
 and the inferior chiefs, according to their riches, per- 
 haps once a week, a fortnight, or a month. 
 
 The ava is chiefly ufed among the better fort of peo- 
 ple, but this beverage is diiFerently prepared, from 
 that which we fav. In the Friendly Iflands. Here they 
 pour a fmall quantity of water upon the root, and often 
 bake, roaft, or bruife the flalks, w ':hout chewing it 
 before it is infufed. They alfo bruife the leaves of the 
 plant here, and pour water upon them, as upon the 
 root. It is not drank in large companies, in that fo- 
 ciable way which is pradlifed among the people at Ton- 
 cataboo; but it has more pernicious efte(Si:s here, ow-' 
 ing, perhaps, to tl manner of its preparation ; as we 
 law frequent inftances of its intoxicating powers. 
 
 Many of us, who had vifited thefe iflands before, 
 were furprized to find feveral of the natives, who "were 
 remarkable for their fize and corpulency, when we few 
 them laft, now almoft reduced to fkeletons ; and the 
 caule of this alteration was univerfally attributed to 
 the ufe of the ava* Their fkins were dry, rough, and 
 covered with fcales ; which, they fay, occafionally fall 
 ofi> and their Ikin becomes, in feme degree, renewed. 
 As an excufe for fo deftrudtive a praClice, they alledge, 
 it is to prevent their growing too corpulent; but it 
 enervates them exceedingly, and probably fliortens the 
 duration of their lives. 
 
 Their meals at Otaheite are very frequent. The 
 firft is about two o'clock in the morning, after which 
 they goto fleep; the next is at eight; they dine at 
 eleven, and again, as Omai exprefled it, at two, and 
 at five ; and they go to fupper at eight. They have, 
 adopted fome very whimfical cuftoms, in this article 
 of domeftlc life. The women are not only obliged to. 
 €at by themfelves, but are even excluded from partak- ^ 
 ing of moft of the better fotts of food. Turtle, or 
 
PACIFIC OCEANr 
 
 I5» 
 
 by 
 
 ley 
 
 ine 
 
 ire. 
 
 ay; 
 
 jey 
 
 fifli of the tunny kind, they dare not touch, though it 
 is high in efteem ; fome particular forts of the heft 
 plantains are alfo forbidden them ; and even thofe ot the 
 firft rank are feldom permitted to eat pork. The chil- 
 dren, of both fexes, alfo eat apart ; and the women 
 ufually lerve up their own provifions. , 
 
 They are not fo obfcure and myflerious in their other 
 cuftums refpe(5ling the females, efpecially with regard 
 to their connections with the men. When a young, 
 man and woman, from mutual choice, agree to cohabit, 
 the man makes a prefent to the father of the girl, ol the 
 common necelTaries of life, as hogs, cloth, or canoes ; 
 and if he fuppofes he has not received a valuable con- 
 fide.ration for his daughter, he compels her to leave her 
 former friend, and to cohabit with a perfon who may be 
 more liberal. The man, indeed, is always at full li^ 
 berty to make a new choice ; or, lliould his confort be- 
 come a mother, he may deftroy the child; and after- 
 wards either leave the woman, or continue his connec- 
 tion with her. But, if he adopts the child, and per- 
 mits it to live, tha man and woman are then confidered 
 as in the married f^ate; and, after that, they feldom. 
 feparate. A man may, however, without being cen- 
 fured, join a more youthful partner to his firil wife, 
 and live with both of them. > .i.ji: 
 
 Their religious fyftem abounds in fingularities, and . 
 few of the common people have a competent knowledge 
 of it, that being principally confined to their priefts, 
 who, indeed, are numerous. They pay no particular 
 refpe61: to one god, as poilefling pre-eminence ; but be- 
 lieve in a plurality of divinities, who liave each a pleni- 
 tude of power. 
 
 As difl'erent parts of the ifland, and the other neigh- 
 bouring illands, have different gods, the relpective in- 
 habitants imagine they have choien the mofl: eminent, 
 or one who is, at leaft, fufHciently powerful to protedt ^ 
 them, and to fupply their necefTities. If he ihould not 
 give them fatisfatElion, they think it no impiety to , 
 change. An inftance of this kind has lately happened 
 in Tiaraboo, where two divinities have been difcarded, 
 
 114 and 
 
 I 
 
 HI 
 
 m 
 
 
 M 
 
 If 
 
152 ATOYACETOTIIE 
 
 and Oraa, god of Bolabola, has been adopted in their 
 room. •'">'• vf.» ; 
 
 1* In ferving their gods, their affiduity is remarkably 
 confpicuous. I'he zvhattas^ or offering-places of the 
 tnorais are, in general, loaded with fruits and animals ; 
 and almoft every houfe has a portion of it fct apart for 
 a fimilar purpole, .'•■•/ »* • • . n. ; ^ j^.*.t. ;»iiv. 
 
 As in other cafes, fo in religion, the women are ob- 
 liged to fhew their inferiority. When they pafs the 
 morais, they muft partly uncover themfelves, or take 
 an extenfive circuit to avoid them. Though tliey do 
 not entertain an opinion, that their god mull be con- 
 tinually conferring benefits, without fometimes for- 
 faking them ; they are lefs concerned at this, than at 
 the attempts of fome inaufpicious being to injure them. 
 .S/rf, they fay, is an evil fpirit, who delights in mif- 
 chief ; to whom they make offerings, as well as to their 
 <livinity. But all the mifchiefs they apprehend from in- 
 vifible beings are merely temporal. 
 
 As to the foul, they believe it to be both immortal 
 and immaterial; that, during the pangs of death, it 
 keeps fluttering about the lips ; and that it afcends, ai^d 
 is eaten by the deity : that it continues in this flate for 
 fome time ; after which it takes its paflage to a certain 
 place, deftined to receive the fouls of men, and has 
 exiflence in eternal night ; or rather in a kind of dawn, 
 or twilight. They expe(5t no permanent punifliment 
 hereafter, for crimes committed upon earth ; the fouls 
 of good and bad men being indifcriminately eaten by 
 the deity.-^n.v-y ^ii^'ULu)-! ..,M-'>'/f:.: v--*i i- 
 
 t If the hufbaml departs this life firfl, they fuppofe, 
 that the foul of his wife is no flranger to him, on its 
 arrival in the land of fpirits. They renew their for- 
 mer intimacy, in a capacious building, called lourooay 
 where departed fouls afTemble to recreate themfelves 
 ■with the gods. The hufband then conducSls her to 
 his feparate habitation, where they eternally rehde, 
 and have an offspring, which, however, is purely fpi- 
 ritual. ' 
 
 \, • . Many 
 
t\«k t^t 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. I53 
 
 Many of their notions refpetf^ing the Deity are 
 extravagantly abfurd. They fuppoi'e him to be under 
 the influence of thofe fpirits, who derive their ex illence 
 from him ; and that they frequently eat hiny though 
 he has power to re-create himfelf. They cannot con- 
 verfe about immaterial things, without referring to 
 material objedts to convey their meaning, and there- 
 fore, perhaps, they ufe this mode of expreflfion. They 
 are of opinion, that thofe who are drowned in the fea 
 continue there, and enjoy a delightful country^ furap- 
 tuous habitations, and every thing that can contribute 
 to their happinefs. They even maintain that all other 
 animals have fouls; and even trees, fruit, and ftones ; 
 which, at their deceafe, or upon their being confumed 
 or broken, afcend to the deity, from whom they pafs 
 into their deftined manfion. 
 
 They have implicit confidence in dreams, fuppofing 
 them to be communications from their Deity, or from 
 the fpirits of their friends who have departed this hfe ; 
 and that thofe who are favoured with them can foretel 
 future events : but this kind of knowledge is limited 
 to particular perfons. Omai pretended to have thefe 
 communications. He aiTured us, that, on the 26th 
 of July, 1776, his father's foul had intimated to him 
 in a dream, that he fhould land fomewhere in three 
 days; but he was unfortunate in his firft prophetic at- 
 tempt, for we did not get into TeneriiFe till the firft of 
 
 Auguft. '! ^»,r: iMit (X>05 \ J 
 
 They have flrangeobfcure traditions concerning the 
 creation. Some goddefs, they fay, had a lump of earth 
 fufpended in a cord, and, by giving it a fwing roOnd, 
 fcattered about feveral pieces of land, which confti- 
 tut A Otaheite and the adjacent iflands ; and that they 
 were all peopled by one of each fex, who originally fixed 
 at Otaheite; but this only refpeifts their own imtne- 
 diate creation ; for they admit of an univerfaion^ before 
 thiis, i.^ ^* 
 
 They have many religious and hiftorical legeifids ; 
 one of which, relative to eating human flefli, is, in 
 fubftance, as follows : A very long time ago, there 
 
 H 5 lived 
 
 9. .1 
 
 I 
 
t54 .t, A VOYAGt 7 6 THE 
 
 lived at Otiiheite two men, who were called Taheeal ; 
 a name which is now given to cannibals. They inha- 
 bited the mountains, whence they ifiued forth, and mur- 
 dered the natives, whom they afterwards devoured, and 
 thus prevented the progrefs of population. Two bro- 
 thers, anxious to rid the country of fuch enemies, fuc- 
 cefsfully put in practice a flratagem for their deftru^tion. 
 They lived farther upwardthan the Taheeaiy and were 
 fo fituated, that they could converfe with them without 
 hazarding their own fafety. They invited them to 
 partake of an entertainment, to which they readily 
 confented. The brothers then heated fome ftones in a 
 fire, and thru ft ing them into pieces of wz^^rf, requefted 
 one of the Taheai to open his mouth ; when one of 
 thofe pieces was immediately dropped in, and fome 
 water poured after it, which, in quenching the ftone, 
 made a hiffing noife and killed him. The other was 
 -entreated to do the fame, but at firft declined it, men- 
 tioning the confequences of his companion's eating ; 
 but, upon being alfured that the food was excellent, 
 that thefe eftedls were only temporary, and that his 
 Companion would foon recover, he was fo credulous 
 as to fwallow the bait, and was alfo killed. 
 
 Their bodies were then cut to pieces, and buried by 
 the natives, who rewarded the brothers with the go- 
 vern^lent of the ifland, for delivering them from fuch 
 monfters. 
 
 ' The principal chara6ieriflics of the fovereign, are, 
 the being inverted with the maro, the prefiding at hu- 
 man facrifices, and the blowing of the conch-ihell. 
 On hearing the latter, every fubjedl is obliged to bring 
 food, in proportion to his circumftances, to his royal 
 refidence. Their veneration for his name, on fome 
 occafions, they carry to a moft extravagant height. 
 When he accedes to the maro^ if any words in the 
 language are found to have a refembkuice to it in found, 
 they are immediately changed for others; and, if any 
 man fliould be prefumptuous enough to continue the 
 ufe of thofe words, not only he, but his whole family, 
 are put to dcatli. 
 
 2 The 
 
nha- 
 |mur- 
 |> and 
 bro- 
 fuc- 
 ion. 
 were 
 hout 
 to 
 adily 
 in a 
 efted 
 le of 
 fome 
 one, 
 was 
 men- 
 ing ; 
 lent. 
 It his 
 ilous 
 
 P A C I F I C O C E A N. I55 
 
 Tlie fjvereign never deigns to enter the habitation 
 of any of his fubje6ts ; in every diftricl, where he 
 vifits, he has houfes belonging to himfelf, And if, by 
 accident, he fhould ever be obhged to deviate from this 
 rule, the habitation thus honoured with bis prefence, 
 together with its furniture, is entirely burnt. When 
 prefent, his fubjedls upcover to him as low as the waift ; 
 and, when he is at any particular place, a pole, with 
 a piece of cloth affixed to it, is fet up in fome confpi- 
 cuous part near, on which the fame honours are be- 
 llowed. 
 
 Otaheite is div''^ed into feveral diftri<5ls, the bounda- 
 ries of which are generally rivulets or low hills; but 
 the fubdivifions, by which particular property is afcer- 
 tained, are pointed out by large ftones, which have 
 continued from generation to generation. Quarrels 
 are fometimes produced, by the removal of thefe Hones, 
 which are decided by battle; each party claiming the 
 afiiftance of his friends. But, upon a complaint being 
 properly made to the Erce de holy he determines the 
 difference in an amicable manner. 
 
 Befides the number or clufter of iflands, extending 
 from Mataia to Mourooa, we were informed by the 
 people at Otaheite, that there was a low uninhabited 
 illand, called Mopeeha ; and alio feveral low illands, 
 to the north-eaftward, at the diflanceof about two days 
 fail with a fair wind. • i 
 
 At Mataeeva, it is faid to be cuflomary, for men to 
 prefent their daughters to ftrangers who vifit that illand. 
 The pairs, however, mufl lie near each other for the 
 fpace of five nights, without prefuming to take any 
 liberties. On the fixth evening, the father entertains 
 his gueft with food, and orders the daughter to receive 
 him, that night, as her hulhand. Though the bed- 
 fellow be ever fo dil-'p^reeable to the flranger, he mufl 
 not dare toexpreis the leall: dillike; for that is an un- 
 pardonable affront, and punifhable with death. Forty 
 men of Bolabola, whom curioiity had incited to go to 
 Alataeeva, were ttcuted in this manner: one of them 
 having declared liis averfion to the female who iA\ to 
 
 H 6 his 
 
 m \ 
 
 m 
 
 
 If;: 
 
, 1 c6 A V O Y A C r. T O T 11 E 
 
 his lot, in the hearing of a boy, who mentioned It to 
 the father. Fired with this information, the Mataee- 
 vans fell upon them ; but the Bolabolans killed thrice 
 ' their own number, though with the lofs of the whole 
 party except five. Thefe, at firft, concealed themfelves 
 in the woods, and afterwards efledled their efcape in a 
 canoe. 
 
 Upon our quitting Bolabola, and taking leave of the 
 Society Iflands, on Monday the 8th of December, we 
 fteered to the northward, with the wind between north- 
 eaft and eafl ; fcarce ever having it in the I'outh-eall 
 point, till after we had crofTed the equator. 
 
 In the night between the 2 ad and 23d, we crofled 
 the equino£lial line ; and on the 24th, loon after day- 
 break, we difcovered land bearing north-eaft by eail. 
 Capt. Cook being of opinion, that this ifland won lei 
 prove a convenient place for procuring turtle, refolved 
 to anchor here. We accordingly dropped our anchors 
 in thirty fathoms water. Early the next morning, which 
 tvas Chriftmas-day, two boats were fent, one from 
 each fhip, to examine more accurately whether it was 
 pra(5licable to land ; and, at the fame time, two others 
 were ordered out, to filh at a grappling near . he lliore. 
 Thefe laft returned about eight, with as many fifii 
 as weighed upwards of two hundred pounds. Encou- 
 raged by this fuccefs, the Commodore difpatched them 
 again after breakfaft ; and he then went himfelf in ano- 
 ther boat, to view the coafl, and attempt landing, which, 
 however, he found to be impra6licable. The two boats 
 •which had been fent out on the fame fearch returned 
 about twelve o'clock ; and the mafter, who was in that 
 belonging to thcRefolution, reported to Captain Coo^, 
 that, about four or five miles to the northward, there' 
 being a break in the land, and a channel into the la- 
 goon, there was confequently a proper place for land- 
 ing. In confequence of this report we weighed, and, 
 after two or three trips, anchored again over a botton^ 
 of fine dark fand, before a little ifland lying at the 
 entrance of the lagoon. 
 
 On Friday the 26th, in the mornirig, the Couimo- 
 
 dore 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 157 
 
 dore ordered Captain Clarke to fend out a boat, with 
 an officer in it, to the fouth-eaft part of tlie lagoon, in 
 quell of turtle ; and went himfelf with Mr. King, each 
 in a boat, to the north-eaft part. It was his intention 
 to have gone ^o the eaftern extremity ; but the wind 
 not permitting it, he and Mr. King landed more to lee- 
 WMrd, on a fandy flat, where they caught one turtle, 
 which was the only one they law in the lagoon. 
 Though fo few turtles were obferved by thefe two gen- 
 tlemen, we did not defpair of a fupply; for fome of 
 the officers of the Difcovery, who had been alhore 
 to the foathward of the channel leading into the lagoon, 
 had more fuccefs, and caught feveral. 
 
 Having fome yams and cocoa-nuts on board, hi a 
 flate of vegetation, we planted them by Captain Cook's 
 order, and fome feeds of melons were fown. The 
 Captain alfo left a bottle, containing the following in- 
 fer ipt ion : • , . 
 
 Geotjius Tertiui, Rex, "^l Dccembrisy 1 777. 
 p.T , f Refoiution, jfac. Cook, Pr» 
 \ JDifcovery, Car, Gierke, Pr, 
 
 On Thurfday, the ift of January, 1778, the Com- 
 modore fent out feveral boats to bring on board our dif- 
 ferent parties employed afliore, with the turtle which 
 they had caught. It being late before this bufmefs was 
 completed, he thought proper to defer fa ling till the 
 next morning. We procured at this illand, for both 
 iliips, about three hundred turtles, which weighed, one 
 with another, about ninety pounds : they were all of the 
 green fort, and, perhaps, not inferior in goodnefs to 
 nny in the world. 
 
 Tne foil of this ifland (to. which Captain Cook gave 
 the name of Chriftmas Ifland, as we kept that feflival 
 ht\t) is, in fome places, light and blackilh, compofed 
 of fand, the dung of birds, and rotten vegetables. In 
 other parts it is formed of broken coral-ftones, decayed 
 /hells, and other marine produdVions. We could not 
 difcover tUe fmalleil traces of any human creature hav- 
 ing 
 
 m 
 
 ?iv 
 
 fi- 
 ll.. 
 
 m 
 
 H) 
 
 n 
 
 if I 
 
 
 m 
 
 -ill 
 m 
 
158 
 
 A V O YAGE TO THE 
 
 1 ^ 
 
 
 ing ever been here before us ; and, indeed, iliould any 
 one be accidentally driven on the itland, or left there, 
 he would hardly be able to prolong his exiflence. For, 
 though there are birds and fifh in abundance, there are 
 no vifible means of allaying thirft, nor any vegetable 
 that v^rould ferve as a fubftitute for bread, or corredl the 
 bad effetSls of an animal diet. On the few cocoa-nut 
 trees upon the ifland, we found very little fruit, and 
 that little not good. 
 
 Chriftmas Ifland is fuppofed by Captain Cook to be 
 between fifteen and twenty leagues in circuit. Its 
 form is femicircular, or like the moon in her lail quar- 
 ter, the two horns being the north and fouth points. 
 The weft fide, or the fmall iiland fituate at the en- 
 trance into the lagoon, lies in the longitude of 202*^ 
 30^ eaft, and in the latitude of i*^ 59'' north. 
 
 Weighing anchor at day-break, on Friday the 2d of 
 January, 1778, we relumed our northerly courfe, 
 with a gentle breeze at eaft, and eaft-fouth-eaft, which 
 continued till we arrived in the latitude of 7^ 45^ 
 north, and the longitude of 205° eaft, where we had 
 a day of perfedl calm. A north -eaft-by-ealt wind then 
 fucceeded, which blew faintly at firft, but freftiened as 
 we proceeded northward. Early in the morning of Sun- 
 day the 1 8th, an ifland appeared, bearing north-eaft- 
 by-eaft. Not long after, more land was feen, which 
 bore north, and was totally detached from the former. 
 At noon, the firft was fuppofed to be eight or nine 
 leagues diftant. Our longitude,, at this time, was 
 aoo° 41'' eaft, and our latitude, 21^ 12^ north. The 
 next day, at fun-rife, the ifland firft (i^en. bore eaft, :.r, 
 the diftance of feveral leagues. Not being able to 
 reach this, we fhaped our courfe for the other; and 
 foon after, obferved a third ifland, bearinoj we fl -north- 
 weft. 
 
 We had now a fine breeze at eaft-by-north ; ar.l, 
 at noon, the fecond ifland, named Atooi, for the 'iaft 
 end of which we were fleering, was about two leagues 
 diftant. As we made a nearer approach, many of the 
 inhabitants put oft* from the ftaore in their canoes, and 
 
 very 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. I59 
 
 very readily came along-fide the ftiips. We were agree- 
 nbly furprized to find, that they fpoke a dialedl of 
 the Otaheitan language. They could not be prevailed 
 upon by any intreaties to come on board. Captain Cook 
 tied feme brafs medals to a rope, which he gave to thofe 
 who were in one of the canoes ; and they in return, faf- 
 tened fome mackarel to the rope, by way of equivalent. 
 This was repeated ; and fome fmall nails, or pieces of 
 iron, were given them ; for which they gave in exchange 
 fome more fiili, and a fweet potatoe ; a fure indication 
 of their having fome notion of bartering, or, at leaft, 
 of returning one prefent for another. 
 
 As we perceived no figns of an anchoring place at 
 this eaftern extremity of the ifland, we bore away to 
 leeward, and ranged along the fouth-eaft fide, at the 
 diftance of about a mile and a half from the fhore. The 
 canoes left us when we made fail ; but others came off, 
 as we proceeded along the coaft, and brought with 
 them pigs and fome excellent potatoes, which they ex- 
 changed for whatever we offered to them ; and feveral 
 fmall pigs were purchafed by us for a fixpenny nail. 
 
 We fpent the night in ftanding off and on, and the 
 next morning flood in for the land. We were met by 
 feveral canoes filled with natives, fome of whom ven- 
 tured to come on board. 
 
 None of the inhabitants we ever met with before in 
 any other ifland or country were fo alloniflied as thefe 
 people were upon entering the fliip. Their eyes were 
 inceffantly roving from one obje6l to another; and the 
 wildefs of their looks and geflures fully indicated their 
 perfect ignorance witli reipe6l to every thing they faw, 
 and ilrongly marked to us, that they ha ' never till the 
 prefent time been vidtcd by Europeans^ iior been ac- 
 quainted with any ot our commodities, except iron. 
 This metal, however, tlwy had in all probability only 
 heard of, or had perhaps known it in fome inconfider- 
 able quantity, brought to them at a remote period. 
 
 The natives were, in many refpe£Vs, naturally po- 
 lite; or, at lead, cautious of giving offence. On their 
 iirll entering the fliip, they attempted to Hcsi every 
 
 thing 
 
 III " 
 
 A 
 
 n: 
 
 ■■ ■ i 
 
 Li 
 
 !;■ 
 
 ■3' 
 
 Ti:\ 
 
 'k 
 
 i 
 
 II: 
 
 il V* 
 
t6o 
 
 A VOYAGE ro THE 
 
 
 f,m 
 
 >lSlK 
 
 thing that they could lay their hands on, or rather to 
 take it openly, as if they fuppofed that we either fhould 
 not refent fuch behaviour, or not hinder it : but we 
 foon convinced them of their error ; and when they 
 obferved that we kept a watchful eye over them, they 
 became lefs a6^ive in appropriating to themfelves what 
 did not belong to them. 
 
 About nine o'clock Captain Cook difpatched Lieu- 
 tenant William fon, with three armed boats, to look 
 out for a proper landing place, and for frefh water ; 
 with orders, that if he fhould find it necefTary to land 
 in fearch of the latter, he fhould not allow more than 
 one man to accompany him out of the boats. 
 
 Waiting for the return of our boats, which had been 
 fent out to reconnoitre the coafl, we flood off and on 
 with the fhips. Towards mid-day, Mr. Williamfon 
 came back, and reported, that he had obferved behind 
 a beach, near one of the villages, a large pond, which 
 was faid by the natives to contain frefh water; and 
 that there was tolerable anchoring ground before it. 
 
 Captain Cook then bore down with the fhips, and 
 cafl anchor in twenty-five fathoms water, over a fandy 
 bottom. The fhips being thus flationed, between 
 three and four in the afternoon, the Captain went afhore 
 with three armed boats and twelve of the marines^ 
 with a view of examining the water, and trying the 
 difpofition of the inhabitants, who had afTembled in 
 confiderable numbers on a fandy beach before the vil- 
 lage ; behind it was a valley, in which was the piece 
 of water. The moment he leaped on fhore all the 
 iilanders fell proflrate upon their faces, and continued 
 in that pofture of humiliation till by figns he prevailed 
 on them to rife. They then prefented to him many 
 imall pigs, with plantain trees, making ufe of nearly 
 the fame ceremonies which we had feen pra£lifed on 
 fimilar occafions at the Society and other ifie$ ; and a 
 long oration or prayer being pronounced by an indivi- 
 dual, in which others of the afTembly occafionally 
 joined. Captain Cook fignified his acceptance of their 
 proffered friendihip, by beflowing on them, in return, 
 
 fuch 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 l6l 
 
 fuch prefents as he had brought afhore. This intro- 
 du6lory hulinefs being ended, he ftationed a guard upon 
 the beach, and was then condu(Sled by feme of the na- 
 tives to the water, which he found extremely good, 
 and fo confiderable, that it might be denominated a 
 lake. After this, he returned on board, and iffued or- 
 ders, that prej)arations flioukljbe made for filling our 
 water cafks in the morning; at which time he went 
 afliore with fome of his people, having a party of ma- 
 rines for a guard. 
 
 They had no fooner landed, than a trade was entered 
 iiUo for potatoes and hogs, which the iihmders gave in 
 excliange for nails and pieces of iron. Far from giving 
 any obftrudtion to our men who were occupied in 
 watering, they even aflifted them in rolling the call^is 
 to and from the pool, and performed with alacrity 
 whatever was required of them. 
 
 .. Among the various articles which they ^brought to 
 barter, we were particularly flruck with a fort of 
 cloak and cap, which, even in more polifhed countries, 
 might be efteemed elegant. Thefe cloaks are nearjy 
 of the fliape and fize of the fhort ones worn by the 
 men in Spain, and by the women in England, tied 
 loofely before, and reaching to the middle of the back. 
 The ground of them is a net work, with the moft 
 beautiful read and yellow feathers fo clofely fixed upon 
 it, that the furface, both in point of fmoothn^fs and 
 glofiinefs, refembles the richeft velvet. The method 
 of varying the mixture is verv different ; fome of them 
 having triangular fpaces of yellow and red alternately ; 
 others, a fort of crefcent ; while fome are entirely red, 
 except that they had a broad yellow border. The 
 brilliant colours of the feathers, in thofe cloaks that 
 were new, had a very fine efFe£l:. The natives, at 
 firft, refufed to part with one of thefe cloaks for any 
 thing that we offered in exchange, demanding no lefs a 
 price than one of our mufquets; they afterwards, how-^ 
 ever, fuffered us to purchafe fome of them for very' 
 large nails. Thofe of the belt fort were Icarce, and; it 
 
 \' r .; ■ ..'■ . is 
 
 f 8 
 
 
 if 
 
 &5: 
 
 11' 
 
 M 
 
l62 
 
 A -VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 li i: 
 
 is prdbable, that they are nfed only on particular occa- 
 flons. :':> 
 
 The caps are made in the form of a helmet, with 
 the middle part, or crefl, frequently of a hand*s 
 breadth. They fit very clofe upon the head, and have 
 notches tq admit the ears. They confift of twigs and 
 ofiers, covered with a net work, into which feathers 
 are wrought, as upon the cloaks, but fomevvhat clofer, 
 and lefs diverfiiied ; the major part being red, with 
 feme yellow, green, or black ftripes on the fides. 
 Thefe caps, in all probability, complete the drefs with 
 the cloaks ; for the iflanders appeared fometimes in 
 both together. 
 
 On Thurfday the 2 2d, we had almofl continual rain 
 for the whole morning ; and the furf broke fo high 
 Upon the fliore, that our boat* were prevented from 
 landing. The Refolution was not in a very fecure 
 fituation, there being breakers within the length of 
 little more than two cables from her ilern. The 
 natives, notwithftanding the furf, ventured out in 
 their canoes, bringing ofF to our fliips hogs and vege- 
 tables, which they exchanged, as before, for our com- 
 modities. One of their number, who offered fome 
 fifli hooks for fale, was obferved to have a very fmall 
 parcel faflened to the firing of one of them, which he 
 carefully feparated, and referved for himfelf, when he 
 difpofed of the hook. When alked what it whSf he 
 pointed to his belly, and intimated fomething of its 
 being dead ; faying, at the fame time, that it was bad. 
 He was requefted to open the parcel, which he did 
 with great relu6tance ; and we found, that it contain- 
 ed a fmall thin piece of flefli, which had to all appear- 
 ance been dried, but was at prefent wet with fait 
 water. Imagining that it might be human ilefli, we 
 put the queftion to the producer of it, who anlwered, 
 that the flefh was part of a man. Another of the 
 illanders, who flood near him, was then afked, whe- 
 ther it was a cuftom among them to eat their enemies 
 who had been flain in battle, and he immediately re- 
 plied in the affirmative. 
 
 In 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 163 
 
 Tn the aft( 
 
 :ernoon we had fome intervals of fair wea- 
 then. The wind then changed to the eaft and north- 
 eft ; but, towards the evening, it veered back again to 
 ibuth-fbuth-eaft. The rain vHo returning, continued 
 the whole night, but was not accompanied with much 
 wind. At I'even the next morning, a north-eafterly 
 hree/.e fpringing up, Captain Cook ordered the an- 
 chors of his ihip to be taken up, with a view of re- 
 moving her farthe out. As Toon as the laft anchor 
 was up, the wind .eering to the eaft, rendered it ne- 
 cciTary to make all the fail he could, for the purpofe of 
 clearing the fhore ; fo that, before he "had good fea 
 room, he was driven confiderably to leeward. He en- 
 deavoured to regain the road ; hot having a ftrong cur- 
 rent againft him, and very little wind, he could not 
 accomplifh that defign. He therefore difpatched 
 Meflrs. King and Williamfon afhore, with three boats, 
 to procure water and refreihments, fending, at the 
 fame time, an order to Captain Gierke, to put to fea 
 after him. if he fhould find that the Ref-^lution was 
 unable to recw .^r the road. » ' ' ' • ; . 
 
 Th3 Commodore having hopes of finding a roac, 
 perhaps a i.arV our, at the veft end of the ilHnd, • us 
 the lefs anxious about regaining his former flation : 
 but as he had fent the boats thither, he kept as .uch 
 as poflible to the windward; notwithftanding wuich, 
 at noon our fhip was three leagues to leeward. As 
 we approached the weft end, we found that the coafl: 
 rounded gradually to the north-eaft, without forming 
 a cove, or creek, wherein a vefTel might be iheltered 
 from the violence of the fwell, which, rolling in from 
 the northward, broke againft the fliore in an amazing 
 furf : all hopes, therefore, of meeting with a harbour 
 litre foon vaniftied. Many of the natives in their 
 canoes followed us as we ftood out to fea, bartering va- 
 rious articles. 
 
 On Saturday the 24th, at day break, we found that 
 our ihip had been carried by the currents to the north- 
 weft and north ; fo that the weftern extremity of 
 A tool bore eaft, at the diftance of oiie league. A nor- 
 therly 
 
 i 
 
 ■I I 
 
 1 1 
 
 )t; 
 
 f-m 
 
 
 1% 
 
 -4 
 
 '■ f 
 
,! 
 
 ;: 
 
 4i 
 
 
 164 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 therly breeze fprung up foon after, and Captain Cook 
 expelling that this would bring the Difcovery to fea, 
 Peered for Oneeheow, a neighbouring ifland, which 
 then bore fouth-weft, with a view of anchoring there. 
 He continued to fteer for it till part eleven, at which 
 time he was at the diftance of about fix rniles from it : 
 but not feeing the Difcovery, he was apprehenfive left 
 fome ill confequence might arife from our feparating 
 fo far ; he therefore relinquifhed the defign of vifiting 
 Oneeheow for the prefent, and flood back to Atooi, 
 intending to caft anchor again in the road, in order to 
 complete our fupply of Water. We ftretched to the 
 fouth-eaft till early in the morning of the 25th, when 
 we tacked and flood in for Atooi road, and not long 
 after, we were joined by the Difcovery. 
 
 Captain Cook being informed by fome of the na- 
 tives, who had come off to the fliips, that frefh water 
 might be obtained at a village which we faw at a little 
 diftance, ran down, and caft anchor before it, about 
 fix furlongs from the fhorcj the depth of water being 
 twenty-fix fathoms. The Difeoveiry anchored at a 
 greater Jiftance from the fliore in twenty-three fa- 
 thoms. 
 
 The curious inquiry, whether thefe iflanders were 
 cannibals, was this day renewed ; and the fubje6l did 
 not arife from any queftiOns put by us, but from a 
 circumftance that feemed to remove all doubt. One 
 of the natives, who wilhed to get in at the gun-room, 
 port, was refufed; and he then a{ked, whether we 
 fhould kill and eat him if he fhould come in ? accom- 
 panying this quefti®n with figns fo expreflive, that we 
 did not entertain a doubt with refpedl to his meaning. 
 We had now an opportunity of retorting the queftion 
 as to this practice ; and a man behind the other in the 
 canoe, inftantly replied, that if we were killed on 
 fhore they would not fcruple to eat us : not that he 
 meant that he would deftroy us for that purpofe, but 
 that their devouring us would be the confequence of 
 our being at enmity with them. 
 
 Mr, Gore was fent m the afternoon, with three 
 
 armed 
 
three 
 
 armed 
 
 PACiriC OCEAN. 165 
 
 armed boats, in fearch of tf»c moil commodious land- 
 ing place, being alio directed to look for frefh water 
 when he fhould get on ihore. He returned in the 
 evening, and re [>orted to Captain Cook, that he had 
 Lindtrd at ti»e village above mentioned, and had been 
 condu<5led to a well about half a mile up the country ; 
 but that the watf^r which it contained was in too fmall 
 a .juaiitily for our purpofe, and the road that led to it 
 was extremely bad. 
 
 I'owards the evening of the next day, the Commo- 
 J<^re fent the Mafter in a boat to the fouth-eafl point 
 of the iiland, to try whether he could land in that 
 quarter. He returned with a favourable report; but 
 it was now too late to fend for our party till the fol- 
 low! r^g morning, lb that they were obliged to ftay on 
 Ihore. 
 
 Our party on fliore found, in thofe parts of the 
 ifland whicli they had traverfed, feveral fait ponds, 
 fome of which had a fmall quantity of water remaining, 
 but others had none. They faw no appearance of a run- 
 ning ftream ; and though in fome fmall wells which they 
 met with, the freih water was pretty good, it feemed 
 to be icarce. The houfes of the natives were thinly 
 fcattered about; and it was fuppofed, that there were 
 not more than five hundred perfons in the whole iiland. 
 The method of living among thefe people was decent 
 and cleanlv. No inllance was obferved of the men 
 and women eating together ; and the latter feemed, in 
 general, to be aflbciated in companies by themfelves. 
 The oily nuts of the dooe dooe are burned by thefe 
 iflanders for lights during the night ; and they drefs 
 their hogs by baking them in ovens, fplittling the car- 
 cafes through the wliole length. 
 
 About fev«-n in the evening, the anchor of the Re- 
 solution flarted, fo that flie drove off the bank. By 
 this accident we found ourfelves at day break the next 
 morning, which was the 2d of February, nine miles to 
 the leeward of our lafi: ftation; ..id the Captain fore- 
 feeing that it would require more time to regain it than 
 lie chofe to employ, made the fignal for the Difcovery 
 
 to 
 
 
 
^, 
 
 
 As^ 
 
 
 IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 1.0 
 
 ■tt l&i 12.2 
 
 u 
 
 1^ •"" la 
 
 11-25 Bl U 11.6 
 
 
 
 7. 
 
 '/ 
 
 y^ 
 
 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 Wk>irMAINSTMET 
 
 WIBSTM.N.Y. I4SM 
 
 ( 71* ) •72-4503 
 
1 66 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 to weigii anchor and join us. This junction was ef- 
 tedled about noon, and both fhips immediately diredled 
 their courfe to the northward, in profecution of their 
 voyage. Thus, after we had fpent more time in the 
 neighbourhood of thefe iflands than was neceflary to 
 have anfwered all our purpofes, we were obliged to 
 quit them before we had completed our flock of water, 
 or procured from them fuch a plentiful fupply of re- 
 frefliments as the natives were both able and willing to 
 have furniilied us with. Our Ihip, however, obtain- 
 ed from them provifions that lafted at leaft three weeks; 
 and Captain Gierke, more fortunate than we were, ac- 
 quired fuch a quantity of vegetables, as fufficed the 
 Difcovery's people upwards of two months. 
 
 The illands in the Pacific Ocean, which have been 
 difcovered in the courfe of our late voyages, have been 
 generally found fituate in groups ; the fuigle interme- 
 diate ifles hitherto met with being few in proportion 
 to the reft ; tliough, in all probability, there are many 
 more of them yet unknown, which ferve as gradations 
 or fteps between the feveral ckifters. Of what num- 
 ber this new-difcovered Archipelago is compoled muft 
 be left to the decifion of future navigators. We ob- 
 ferved five of them, whofe names are Woahoo, Atooi, 
 Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. The laft of thelb 
 is a fmall elevated ifland, at the diftance of four or iive 
 leagues from the fouth-eaft point of Oneeheow. We 
 were informed that it abounds with birds, which are 
 its fole inhabitants. We alfo gained fome intelligence 
 with regard to the exiftence of a low uninhabited illand 
 in the neighbourhood, named Tammata-pappa. Be- 
 fides thefe fix, we were told that there were foine other 
 iflands both to tlie eaftward and weftward. Captain 
 Cook diftiguifhed the whole group by the name of the 
 Sandwich Iflands, in honour of the Eail of Sandwich. 
 Thofe which he faw are fituated between the latitude 
 of 21^ 30^, and 22° 15^ north, and between the lon- 
 gitude of 199° 20^, and 201° 30^, eaft. 
 
 With reli>e6l to Woahoo, the moft eaflerly of thefe 
 
 illaaidi 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 167 
 
 iilands feen by us, we could get no other information, 
 but that it is high land, and is inhabited. 
 
 Oneeheow lies feven leagues to the weftward of our 
 anchoring place at Atooi, and does not exceed fifteen 
 leagues in circumference. Yams are its principal vege- 
 table produdlion. 
 
 Of Oreehoua we know no other particulars than 
 that it is an elevated ifland, of fmall extent, lying dole 
 to the north fide of Oneeheow. 
 
 Atooi is the largeft of thofe we faw. From what 
 we obferved of it, it is, at leaft, ten leagues in length 
 from eafl: to weffc ; for whence its circumference may 
 nearly be guefled, though it appears to be much broader 
 at the eafl than at the wefl point. 
 
 The land does not in the leaft refemble, in its ge- 
 neral appearance, any of the iflands we have vifited 
 within the tropic of Capricorn ; if we except its hills 
 near the center, which are high, but Hope gradually 
 towards the fea, or lower lands. Though it prefents 
 not to the view the delightful borders of Otaheite, or 
 the luxuriant plains of Tongataboo, covered with 
 trees, which at once afford a fhelter from the fcorch- 
 ing rays of the fun, a beautiful profpe6i: to the eye, 
 and food for the natives; yet its pofleffing a grealer 
 portion of gently-rifmg land, renders it, in fome de- 
 gree, fuperior to the above-mentioned favourite iflands, 
 as being more capable of improvement. 
 
 Were we to judge of the climate from our expe- 
 rience, it might be faid to be very variable ; for, accor- 
 ding to the general opinion, it was, at this time, the 
 fealbn of the year when the weather is fuppofed to be 
 moft fettled, the fun being at his greatefl annual dif- 
 tance. The heat was now very moderate ; and few of 
 thofe inconveniencies to which many countries lying 
 within the tropics are fubjecSV, either from heat or 
 moiflure, feem to be experienced here. 
 
 Befides the vegetables purchafed by us as refrefh- 
 ments, among which were, at leaft, five or fix varie- 
 ties of plantains, the ifland produces bread fruit ; this, 
 however, feems to be fcarce, as we only faw one tree 
 
 of 
 
 !ilL' 
 
1 68 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ^:'U- 
 
 ii it 
 
 6f that fpecies. There are alfo a few cocoa palms ; 
 fome yams; the kappe^oi the Friendly Iflands, or Vir- 
 ginian arum ; the etooa tree, and odoriferous garden'tay 
 or cape jiifm'me. » • 
 
 The fcarlet birds, which were brought for fale, 
 were never met with aUve ; but we faw one fmall one, 
 about the fize of a janary bird, of a deep crimfon co- 
 lour. We alfo faw a large owl, two brown hawks, or 
 kites, and a wuld duck, it is probable that the fpecies 
 of birds are numerous, if we may judge by the quan- 
 tity of fine yellow, green, and fmall, velvet-like, 
 blackifh feathers uied upon the cloaks, and other or- 
 naments, worn by thefe people. ^ i 
 
 Filli, and other produ6lions of the fea, were, to ap- 
 pearance, not various ; as, befides the I'mall mackerel, 
 we only faw common mullets; a fpecies of a chalky 
 colour ; a fmall brownilh rock ii[\ adorned with blue 
 fpots ; a turtle, which was penned up in a pond ; and 
 three or four forts of filli i'alted. The few ihell fiih 
 feen by us were chiefly converted into ornaments, 
 though they were deftitute of the recommendation 
 either of beauty or novelty. 
 
 The only tame or domertic animals that we found 
 here were hogs, dogs, and fowls, which were all of 
 the fame kind that we met with at the iflands of the 
 South Pacific. There were alfo fmall lizards; and 
 fome rats, refembling thofe of every iiland which we 
 had hitherto vifited. 
 
 The inhabitants of Atooi are of the middle fiz^ and, 
 in general, floutly made. They are neither remark- 
 able for a beautiful fhape, nor for llriking features. 
 Their vifage, particularly that of the women, is fome- 
 times round, but others have it long ; nor can it jull- 
 ly be faid, that they are di fling uilhed as a nation by 
 any general caft of countenance. 
 
 They appear to be of a frank, chearful difpofition ; 
 and are equally free from the fickle levity which cha- 
 ra£leri'/es the inhabiMnts of Otaheite, and the fedate 
 cafl which is obfervable among many of thoie of i oii- 
 gataboo. They feem to cultivate a lociable intercourle 
 
 with 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK* 169 
 
 with each other ; and, except the propenfity to thie- 
 ving, which is, as it were, innate in moft of the peo* 
 pie we have viflted in thefe Teas, they were extremely 
 friendly to vrs, ' i ^-../^-» 
 
 From the numbers that we faw aflembled at every 
 village, as we coaded along, it may be conjedlured, 
 that the inhabitants of this ifland are pretty numerous* 
 Including the draggling houfes, there might, perhaps, 
 be in the whole iiland, fixty fuch villages as that near 
 which our fhips anchored ; and if we allow five perfoxM 
 to each houfe, there would be in every village five hun-* 
 dred, or thirty thoufand upon the ifland. Thi« num« 
 ber is by no means exaggerated, for there were fome- 
 times three thoufand people, at leaft, colledbed upoii 
 the beach ; when it could not be fuppofed, that abovo 
 a tenth part of the natives were prefent* * ; t - r 
 
 There is no appearance of defence or fortificatloti 
 near any of the villages, and the houfes are fcatt^red 
 about, without the leafl order. Some of thefe habita^ 
 tions are large and commodious, from forty to fifty 
 feet in length, and twenty or thirty in breadth, while 
 others of them are contemptible hovels. Their figure 
 refembles that of hayflacks ; or, perhaps, a better idea 
 may be conceived of them, by fuppofing the roof of a 
 barn placed on the ground, in fuch a manner as to forn^ 
 a high, acute ridge, with two low fides. The gable 
 at each end, correlponding to the fides, makes thefis 
 dwelling places clofe all round ; and they are weil 
 thatcl^d with loiig grafs, which is laid on flender 
 poles. ' ' ' 
 
 From what we faw growing, and from what was 
 brought to market, we have no doubt that fweet pota- 
 toes, tarOf and plantains, conflittite the principal part 
 of their vegetable diet ; and that yams and bread fruit 
 are rather to be confidered as rarities. Of animal food 
 they appear to be in no want, as they have great num- 
 bers ot hogs, which run, without reflraint, about thp 
 houfes ; and if they eat dogs> which is not altogether 
 improbable, their ftock of thefe feemed very confider- 
 able. The quantities of fifhin^ hooks found among 
 
 I them. 
 
 111 
 
 I i. 
 
 II. .8 
 
 ■ '. i 
 
 -; 
 
I 
 
 I' Ifll 
 
 ISi'i 
 
 %76 AVOYAGE TO THE 
 
 •th^m, indicated that they procure a tolerable fupply 
 of animal food from the fea. t .i. •• y.ii.; »£, r 
 
 They bake their vegetable articles of food with heat- 
 ed ftones ; and, from the great quantity which we faw 
 (fi^HIM at one time, we imagined that all the inhabi- 
 f^Ats of a village, or, at lealt, a condderable number 
 
 • of people, joined in the ufe of a common oven. 
 
 r.v^ The amufements of thefe people are various. We 
 ^d not fee the dances at which they ufe the feathered 
 <tl6aks aiid caps; but, from the motions which they 
 'made with their han'^.s, on other occafions, when they 
 i iung, we judged that they were fomewhat fimilar to 
 ' thofe we had met with at the fouthern iflands, though 
 '■ iiot fo ikil&lly performed. < .h: t,, 
 
 '»< In the diiierent manufadtures of thefe people, there 
 
 ♦ appears to be an extraordinary degree of ingenuity and 
 tieal^l^ Their cloth is made from the mar us papyri- 
 f€¥a^ and, doubtlefs, in the fame manner as at Tonga- 
 
 * taboo amd Otaheite ; for we bought fome of the grooved 
 ilicks with which they beat it. Its texture, however, 
 
 • though thicker, is inferior to that of the cloth of either 
 ♦of the places juft mentioned : but in colouring or ftain- 
 ing it, the inhabitants of Atooi difplay a fuperiority 
 
 V 4bf tafte, by the infinite variety of figures which they 
 Ipxteute. ^ •-. ^ - ' 
 
 • The only iron tools feen among them, and which 
 they pofleffed before our arrival, were a piece of iron 
 
 " lioop, about the length of two inches, fitted into a 
 wooden handle ; and another edged tool, which we fup- 
 
 • pofed to have beert made of the point of a broad fword. 
 
 * Their haivilfig the adtual pofTefHon of thefe, and their 
 ■ -being iwcH acquainted with the ufe of this metal, in- 
 clined fofrie of our people to imagine that we were not 
 
 ' the firft European vifitors of thefe iflands. But the 
 very great furprize which they teflified on feeing our 
 ifelps, and their perfedb ignorance of the ufe of fire- 
 arms, cannot be reconciled to fuch an opinion. 
 
 The canoes of thefe people are commonly about four 
 and twenty feet in length, and have the bottom, in ge- 
 neral> formed of a fingle piece of wood, hollowed out 
 
 to 
 
fACl-FlC OCEAK. 171 
 
 to the thickneCs of an inch, or more, aiid brought to 
 a point at each end. The iides are compofed of three 
 hoards, each about an inch thick, neatly fitted and 
 laflied to the bottom. The extremities, both at head 
 and flem, are a little e]evaited> and both are made fharp, 
 fonaewhat reiembling a wedge, but they flatten more 
 abruptly, fo that the two fide boards join each other> 
 fide by fide, for upwards of a foot. As they feldons 
 exceed a foot and a lialf in breadth, tfaofe that go fingle 
 (for ihey fometimes join them) have outriggers, which 
 are ihaped and fitted with more judgement than any 
 we had before feen. They are rowed by paddles, fuch 
 as we had generally obferved at other lilands; and 
 fome of them have a light triangular fail, extended to 
 a mafl and boom. The ropes which they ufe lor their 
 boats, ^Lttd the fmaller cords for their mliing tackle^ 
 are ilrong and neatly made. 
 
 They are by no means novices in the art of agricul- 
 ture. The vale ground is on& continued plantation of 
 taro, and fome other articles, which have all the ap- 
 pearance of being carefully attended to.r The potatoe 
 fields, and fpots of fugar cane, or plantains, on the 
 higher grounds, are planted with great regularity : 
 but neither thefe, nor the others, are enclofed with any 
 fence^ unlefs we confider the ditches in the low grounds 
 as fuch; which, it is more probable, are d^figned to 
 convey water to the iaro. 
 
 The fhort and imperfe£l: intercourfe we had with 
 the natives did not enubleus to form any accurate judge- 
 ment of the form of government eflablifhed amongd 
 them ; but, from the general fimilarity of cuftoms, and 
 particularly from what we obferved of the honours paid 
 to their chiefs, it feems reafonable to imagine, that it 
 is of the fame nature with thai which prevails in all 
 the Iflands we had hitherto vifited; and, in all proba- 
 bility, their wars among themfelves are equally fre- 
 quent. This, indeed, might be inferred, from the 
 number of weapons we found in their pofleffion, and 
 from the excellent order in which they kept them. 
 But we had proofs of the fa6t from, their own con- 
 
 I z feflionj 
 
 i 
 
 11 
 
 i 
 
 ,1 , 
 
 q 
 
 1 »-•. 
 
 i .* 
 
 Mi 
 
«72 
 
 A VOy AC E Tt) THE 
 
 ; 
 
 feillon; and as we were informed, thefe wai* are car* 
 ried on between the different diflridis of their own 
 ifland, as well as between it and the neighbouring in- 
 habitants of the ifles of Onecheow and Oreehoua. 
 We fcarcely need aiTign any other caufe beiides this, 
 to account for the appearance before mentioned, of 
 their population not being proportioned to the extent 
 of their ground that is capable of cultivation. 
 
 Befides their fpears, formed of a fine brownifh wood, 
 'beautifully polifhed, fome of which are barbed at one 
 «nd, and flattened to a point at the other, they have 
 a kind of weapon which We had never met with be- 
 fore : it fomewhat refembles a dagger, and is in general 
 about eighteen inches in length; Iharpened at one or 
 1>oth ends, and fecured to the hand by a firing. Its 
 4i(e i€ to Aab in clofe combat, and it feems well adapted 
 to that purpofe. Some of thefe may be denominated 
 -double daggers, having a handle in the middle, with 
 which they are the better enabled to flrike different 
 ways. They have likewife bows and arrows; but 
 both from their flender conflrudtion, and their appa- 
 rent fcarcity, it is probable that they never ufe them 
 in battle. The knife or faw already mentioned, with 
 which they diflfedl the dead bodies of their enemies, 
 may alfo be ranked among their weapons, as they 
 <both fkrike and cut with it when engaged in clofe 
 fight. 
 
 The inhabitants of Tongataboo bury their dead 
 •with grea,t decency, and they alfo inter their human 
 facrifices; but they do not, to our knowledge, offer any 
 other animal, or even vegetable, to their deities. 
 
 If the. Sandwich Iflands. had been difcovered at an 
 early period, by the Spaniards, they would doubtlefs 
 ihave availed themfelves of fo excellent a fituation, and 
 have made ufe of Atooi, or feme other of the iflands, 
 Tus a place of refreihment for the fhips that fail annu- 
 ally between Manilla and Acapulco. They lie almofl 
 midway between the laft-mentioned place and Guam, 
 •one of the Ladrones, which is at prefent their only 
 port iu.traverfing this vail ocean; and it would not 
 .'•... » . . i have 
 
own 
 
 emies, 
 they 
 clofe 
 
 ..«,., 
 
 PACIFIC OCEATT. I73 
 
 have heen a week*s fail out of their route to havo- 
 touched at them. An acquaintance with the Sandwich 
 Ifles would aifo have been equally favourable to our 
 Buccaneers; who have fometimes pafled from thecoafl 
 of America to the Ladrones, with a ftock of provi- 
 fions and water fcarcely adequate to the fupport of 
 life. Here they might always have met with a plen* 
 tiful fupply, aiid have been within a month^s fail of 
 the very part of California, which the Manilla ihip 
 is obliged to make. 
 
 The Difcovery having joined us, we flood away to 
 the northward, with a gentle gale from the eaft. 
 
 On Saturday the 7th of February, we were in theT 
 latitude of 29^ north, and in the longitude of 20Q* 
 eaft, the wind veering to fouth-eaft. We (leered nordi- 
 eaft and eafk till the I2th; we then tacked and ftood to 
 the northward, being in the latitude of 30° north* 
 and in the longitude of 206^ 15' eaft. In this ad- 
 vanced latitude, and even in the winter feafon, we had 
 only begun to feel a fenfation of cold in the mornings 
 and evenings; a proof of the equal anddurable influence 
 of the heat of the fun at all times to 30^ on each fide 
 the line. After that, the difproportion is known to be- 
 come very threat. On the 25th, we reached the latituda 
 of 42° 30 , and the longitude of 219®; when we be- 
 gan to meet with the rock weed mentioned in Lord 
 Anfon's voyage, by the name of fea leek, which is 
 generally feen by the Manilla fhips. } ' 
 
 On the firft of March we had a calm day, which 
 was fucceeded by a wind from the north, with which 
 we ftood to the eaft, intending to make land. >i^(^ 
 • On the morning of the 2d, during a calm, part of 
 the fea appeared to be covered with a kind of flime, 
 and fome fmall fea animals were feen fwimming about. 
 Thofe which were hioft con fpicuous, were of the ge- 
 latinous kind, almoft globular; a fmaller fort had a 
 white or fhining appearance, and were in great abun-> 
 dance. Some of the latter were put into a glafs cup, 
 with fome fait water : and, when in a prone fituation, 
 they appeared like fmall fcales or pieces of fUver. ^r 
 
 I 3 When 
 
 ■[ 
 
 
«74 
 
 A VOYACE TO THE 
 
 When they fwam about, which they did with equal 
 eafe in various dire^Hoos, th^y emitted the brighttlb 
 colours of the moil valuable gems, according to their 
 |!, pofition refpe6ling the light. At one time they up- 
 
 Ij peared pellucid, at another diipLiying the various tints 
 
 *^' ©f blue, from a fepphirine to a violet^ mixed with a 
 
 kind of ruby, and glowing with fufficient ftrength to 
 illuminate the glai's and water. When tlie veflel was 
 held to the fkrongeft light, the tints ajxpeared moft 
 vivid'; hut almoft vanished when the animals fubfided 
 to the bottom, they had then abrownifh appearance. 
 By candle light, the colour was principally a be;iutiful 
 pale greer/, Wtth.a kind of bumiflied glofs; and in the 
 dark, it faintly exhibited a glowing fir6^.' • ' ^ ' 
 • About noon, on the 6th, we beheld two feals, and 
 feveral whales; ami early the next morning, the long- 
 expedled coaft of New Albion was feen, at tlie dil- 
 tance often of twelve leagues, e^itending fr^^m north- 
 eaft to fouth-eaft. At noon we were in the latitude 
 of 44^ north, and in the longitude of 235° 20^ 
 eaft, anix ^..e land about eight leagues diftanr. 
 
 We had now feventy-three fathoms water, over a 
 muddy bottom, and found ninety fathoms about a 
 league farther off. The land, which was of a mode- 
 rate height, appeared to be diverfified with hiHs and 
 vallies, and principally covered with wood. No very 
 ftriking obje(fV, however, prefented irfelf, except an 
 high hill with a flat fummit. Thelaml formed a point 
 at the northern extreme, which Captain Cook named 
 Ca]>e Foul weather, from the exceeding bad weather 
 we afterwards met with. >'r r*- -^^ <t 
 
 In the evening of the 8th, the wind veeiied to the 
 north-weft, with fqualls, hail, and ileer; imd the wea- 
 ther being hazy and thick, we flood out to fea till 
 about noon the next day, when we flood in again for 
 the land, which we faW at two in the afternoon, bear- 
 *ring eafl-north-eafl. From this time to the 29th, we 
 were continually encountering various winds; but now 
 got to an anchor iu eighty fathoms' water, and lb 
 near the land as to be able to redch it with a hawfi». 
 
 \.. . , ' : , ThQ 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. Ifi 
 
 The Difcovery was becalmed before flie got within 
 the arm, where (he anchored iu feveiity fathoms 
 water. 
 
 As foon as wfe had anchoredj threor canoes came ofF 
 to the ihip, in one of which were two men, in another 
 llx, and in the other ten. Advancing pretty near us, 
 a perlbn flood up in one of the two laft, and fpoke 
 for a confiderable time, inviting us, as we fuppofed 
 by his geliures, to go ailiore; and at the fame time, 
 continued llrewing handfuls of feathers towards us. 
 Some of his compaiiions uUp threw a red powder in 
 the fame manner. 
 
 A breeze fpringing: up foon after, brought us clofe 
 to tiie Ihore, when the canoes began to vifit us in 
 great numbers ; having had at one time no lefr than 
 thirty-two of them about the (hip, containing from 
 three to feven or eight perfons each, and of both fexes. 
 One canoe- particularly at tra£ted our obfervation, by 
 a peculiar head, which had a bird^s eye, and an enor«^ 
 mous large beak painted on it. The jierfon who was 
 in it, and who appeared to be a chief, was equally re- 
 markable for his lingular appearance; having a large 
 quantity of feathers hanging from his heiid, and being 
 painted' or fmeared in a very extraordinary manner. 
 In his hand he had a carved bird of wood, of the fize 
 of a pigeon, with which he often rattled, and was 
 equally vociferous in his harrangue, which was ac- 
 companied with many expreflive geftures. Though 
 our vifitors were fo peaceabie,^ that they could not be 
 fufpedled of any hoflile intention, not any of them 
 could be prevailed on to come on board. They were 
 very ready, however ta part with any thing they had, 
 and received whatever we offered them in exchange; 
 but wero more folicitous after iron, than any of our 
 other articles ofcommerce^ appearing to be no Gran- 
 gers to the ufe of that valuable metal. 
 . We were followed, by many of the canoes to our 
 anchoring place ; and a group, confifling of about ten 
 or a dozen of them, continued along-fide the Refolu- 
 tioa the greateil part of the night.. Hence, we flat- 
 
 I 4 tered 
 
 V 
 
 f'1: 
 
 H 
 
 
Nf * 
 
 K 
 
 176^* A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 tered ourfelves, that we were fo comfortably fjtnated, 
 RS to be able to get all our wants fupplied, and forget 
 the delays and hard(hips we had experienced^ in almoll 
 a conftant fuccefllon of adverfe winds and tempeiluous 
 weather, ever fince our «rrival upon this coaft. 
 
 /. 
 
 
 •^ .» da ^•r^ 
 
 I* 
 
 BOOK IV. 
 
 .; ..;. i 
 
 *' n 
 
 TRANSACTIONS WITH THE NATIVES OF NORTH 
 
 ,. AMERICA; DISCOVERIES ON THAT COAS'^. AND 
 
 THE EASTERN EXTREMITY OF ASIA, AKD 
 
 RETURN SOUTHHARD TO THE SANDWICH 
 
 ISLANDS. 
 
 \ 
 
 I .u 
 
 ) . 1 
 
 r 
 
 'UuA'^^i.' 
 
 xX AVING happily found fuch excellent fhelter for 
 t>ur AiipS) in an inlet whofe coafls appeared to be in- 
 habited by an inoffenfive race of people, we loft, no 
 time after coming to an anchor, in fearchiog for a 
 commodious harbour, where we might be Rationed 
 during our continuance in the Sound. Upon this 
 Jervice Captain Cook fent three armed boats, under 
 the.command of Mr. King, and went himfelf in a 
 ihiall boat on the fame buAnefs. He had bo difficulty 
 in finding what he wanted; for, on the north- wefl of 
 the arm, and at a fmall diflance from the fhips, he 
 found a convenient fnug cove, perfedly adapted to pur 
 parpofe. .? ^- ^nv;!/ .<;:'•, ;^ . •, ■ n r., 
 
 Plenty of canoes, filled with the inhabitants, were 
 about the flups the whole day; and a reciprocal tnide 
 was ccmmenced between us, which was conducted 
 with the ftridteft Iiarmony and integrity on both fides. 
 Their articles of commerce were the (kins of various 
 animals; fuch as beairs, fea otters^ wolves, foxes, deer, 
 racoons^ martins> aad pole cats. 
 ! Among all the articles, however, which th^ ex- 
 pofed to fale, the moft extraordinary were human ikullsj 
 and hands^ with fome of the flefh remaining on them, 
 > '-^ » I which 
 
 ^5 
 
PACIFIC OCEAlir. 
 
 177 
 
 whicli they acknowledged they had been feeding; on; 
 and fome of theoi, indeed, b'^ve evident marks of their 
 having been upon the fire. From this circumflancey 
 it was but too apparent, that the horrid pra6lice of 
 devouring their enemies is pradlifed here, as much 
 as at New Zealand, and other South-Sea iflands. 
 
 The next day was employed in hauling our fhips 
 into the cove, where they were moored. We found, 
 on heaving up the anchor, notwithflanding the great 
 depth of water, that rocks were at the bottom. Thefe 
 had greatly injured the cable, as well as the haufers 
 that were carried out to warp the fhip into the cove; 
 confequently the whole bottom was ftrewed with 
 rocks. The /hip was now become very leaky in her 
 upper works; the carpenters were therefore ordered to 
 caulk her, and to repair any other defe<5^s they might 
 difcover. 
 
 In the courfe of this day (the 3ifl of March) the 
 news of our arrival brought vafl numbers of tHe na* 
 tives about our fhips. At one time we counted above 
 a hundred canoes, each of which, on an average, had 
 five people on board ; few containing lefs than three; 
 many having feven, eight, or nine; and one was man^ 
 ned with feven teem t^/ +» "<»»• 
 
 We found, however, that they were as fond of pil* 
 faring as any we had met with during our voyage J 
 and they were much more mifchievous than any of the 
 other thieves we had found; for, having fharp inftru* 
 ments in their pofTeffion, they could, the inflant that 
 our backs were turned, cut a hook from a tackle, or 
 apiece of iron from a rope. >=«i .H^cj.t 
 
 Befides other articles-, we loft feveral hooks in this 
 manner, one of which weighed between twenty and 
 thirty pounds. They ftripped our boats of every mor- 
 fel of iron that was worth taking a^ay, though fome 
 of our men were always left in them as a guards They 
 were indeed fo dexterous in effecting; their purpofes, 
 that one fellow wovild contrive to amufe our people 
 at one end of the boat, while another wa& farcing oiF. 
 the iron work at the other end. If an article that 
 
 J 5 .bad 
 
178 A TOYAGE TO THE 
 
 tiadbeett ilolen, was immecliately miifed, the thief was 
 eafily detedted, a» they were fond of impeaching each 
 other. But the prize was always reiud^antly given 
 up by the guilty perfon, and fometimes compulfive 
 jDdeans were obliged to be exercifed for that purpofe. 
 ' Our fliips being fafely moored, we proceeded tlie 
 next day to other neceflary bufinefs. The obferva- 
 tories were taken aihore, and placed upon a rock, on 
 one fide of the cove, not far from the Refolution. A 
 party of men was ordered to C!it wood, and clear a 
 place for watering* Having plenty of pine trees here, 
 others were employed in brewing fpruce beer. The 
 forge was alfo eredbd, to make the neceflary iron 
 work for repairing the foremail, which had one of the 
 bibs defe<Stive> and was otherwife incomplete. 
 
 We were daily vifited by a confiderable number of 
 the natives, and among them we frequently faw new 
 faces* They had a (Ingular mode of introducing them- 
 felves on their firft* appearance. They paddled with 
 their utmod ftrength and adivity round both the fhips^ 
 a chief all this time {landing up with a fpear in his 
 hand, and fpedung, or rather bawling, moft vocife- 
 toufly. 
 
 In the afternoon we refumed our work, and, the 
 next day, rigged the foremaft; the head of which ilot 
 being large enough lor the cap, the carpenter was^ or- 
 dered to fill up the vancant fpace. In examining the 
 flate of the mail-head for this purpofe, both cheeks 
 were difcovered to be rotten, infomuch that there was 
 not ar poflibility of repairing them. We were tliere- 
 fore obliged to get the mail out, and to fupply it with 
 a new one. ' *••>* ^w v . x- . 
 
 In the morning of the Jth of April, having got the 
 iforemaft out, we hauled it aAiore> and the carpenters 
 were ftt -to- Work upoft itfc Some of our lower (land- 
 ing rigging being /much decayed^ the Commodore 
 ciBtbraoedHhe bpporttirrtty,' while the foremaft was re- 
 pairing,- of ordering a new fet of main- rigging to be 
 fitted, ajad the ibre-rigging to be improved, 
 
 , . . From * 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 179 
 
 From our putting into the Sound, till the 7th of 
 April, the weather ha4 been remarkably fine; but, ii* 
 the morning of the eighth^ the wind blew fre(h at 
 fouth-eaft, accompanied with hazy weather and rain; 
 it increafed in the afternoon, and in the evening it blew 
 extretnely hard. It came in heavy fqualls, right into 
 the cove fix>m over the high land on the oppofite Ihore; 
 and though the ihips were well moored, they were ii,i 
 a dangerous fituation. 
 
 The natives were not difcouraged, by this bad wea- 
 ther from making us daily" vifits; and, in our fituation^ 
 fuch vifits were very acceptable to us. ' They fre- 
 quently brought us a fupply of fifh, when we were 
 unable to catch any with a hook and line, and we had 
 not a convenient place to draw a net. The fifli they 
 brought us were fmall cod, and a fmall kind of bream, 
 or fardine. On the nth the main rigging was fixed 
 and got over head notwithilanding the rainy weather; , 
 and the next day we took down the mizen-maft, the 
 head of which was fo rotten, that it dropped off in 
 the flings. 
 
 We received a vifit in the evening from a tribe of > 
 natives whom we had not feen before, and who, in 
 general, made a better appearance than our old friends. 
 The Commodore condudted them into the cabld, but 
 there was not an obje£b that demanded their attention; 
 all our novelties were looked on with indifFetence, ex- 
 cept by a very few, who.fhcwed a certain degree of 
 curiofity. The next day a party of our men: went 
 into the woods, and cut down a tree, of whidr a mizen- 
 mafl was to be made. The day after^ it wa$ con- 
 veyed to the place where the carpenters were at work 
 upon the foremaft. The wind in the evening ^veered 
 tbthe fouth-eaft, and Wew a very hard gale, attended ^ 
 with rain till eight o'clock the next morning j at which 
 time It abated and v^rcd to Jihe wefl. . - 
 
 ' T:^ foremafl being now finifhed, we hauWit along- 
 fide; but on account, of the bad weather,* could not get 
 it in till ^he afternoon. We were dxpediti^u^ in rig^ 
 
 I 6 ^ ging 
 
 m 
 
 li! 
 
 
 !i 
 
■*■■ 
 
 ■^ ' 
 
 280 AV6YAGE TO THE 
 
 glngity while the carpenters were employed on the 
 mizenmafl on fhore. On the i6th, when they had 
 made confiderable progrefs in it, they diicovered that 
 the tree on which they were at work was wounded ; 
 owing, it was imagined, to fome accident in cutting 
 it down. It therefore became nece^ry to procure ano- 
 ther tree out of the woods, on which occafion all hands 
 were employed above half a day. 
 
 During thefe operations, many of the natives were 
 about the fhips, gazing with an expreffive furprife, 
 which, from their general inattention, we did not ex- 
 pert. A party of flrangers, in feven or eight canoes, 
 came into the cove on the i8th, and after looking at 
 us for fome time, retired. We apprehended that our 
 old friends, who, at this time, were more numerous 
 about us than our new vifitors, would not fufier them 
 to have any dealings with us. It was evident, in- 
 deed^ that the neighbouring inhabitants engroiled us 
 entirely to themfelves; and that they carried en a 
 traffic with more diilant tribes, in thofe articles they 
 had received from us ; for they frequently difappeared 
 for four or five days together, and returned with frefh 
 cargoes of curiofities and fkins* 
 
 Such of the natives as vifited us daily, Wv^re the 
 mofl beneficial to us; for, after difpofing ci- their 
 trifles, they employed themfelves in fiihing, and we 
 always partook of what they caught. We alfo pro- 
 cured from them a confiderable quantity of good ani^ 
 mal oil, which they brought to us in bladders. Some, 
 indeed, attempted to cheat us, by mixing water with 
 the oil ; and once or twice they fo far impoied upon 
 tis, as to fill their bladders with water only. But, 
 it was better for us to wink at thefe impoiitions, than 
 differ them to produce a quarrel. . - ' 
 
 . Moft of our heavy work being now finiihed, the 
 Commodore fet out next morning to furvey the Sound; 
 and, goinf^ firfl to the wed point, he difcovered a 
 large village, and before it a very fnug harbour, with 
 from nine |o &>ur fathoms water* 
 
 Til© 
 
'•t^ W 
 
 i on the 
 thev had 
 Jrea that 
 mounded ; 
 cutting 
 ure ano- 
 dl hands 
 
 res were 
 furprife, 
 not ex- 
 canoes, 
 aking at 
 hat our 
 imerous 
 br them 
 mt, in- 
 )fled us 
 ^d on a 
 es they 
 ppeared 
 h freih 
 
 ^re the 
 ' their 
 md we 
 fo pro- 
 >d ani^ 
 Some, 
 r with 
 upon 
 But, 
 
 than 
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 red a 
 
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 1 
 
 4 
 
 VACtFIC OCEAN. l8l 
 
 The inhabitants of this village, who were numerous, 
 many of whom the Commodore was no ftranger to, 
 received him with great courtefy, every one prefling 
 him to enter his apartment ; for feveral families have 
 habitations under the fame roof. He politely ac- 
 cepted the invitations, and the hofpitable friends 
 whom he vifited, tellified every mark of civility and 
 refpedt. 
 
 On the 2 1 ft, the mizenmaft was got in and rigged, 
 and the carpenters ordered to make a new fore-top- 
 mail, to repkce that wh'ch had been carried away* 
 
 The 23d, 24th, and 25th of April were employed 
 in preparing to put to fea; the fails were bent; the 
 obfervatories and other articles removed from the 
 fhore; and both ihips put into a proper condition for 
 failing. 
 
 Thus prepared, we intended to have put to fea oa 
 the morning of the 26th, but having both wind and 
 tide againft us, we were under a neceflity of waiting 
 till noon ; when a calm fucceeded the fouth-wefl win^ 
 and the tide at the fame time turning in our favour, 
 we towed the ihips out of the cove. We had variable 
 airs and calms till rbout four in the afternoon, when 
 a breeze fprung up, attended with thick hazy weather* 
 
 The mercury in the barometer funk uncommonly 
 low, and we had every appearance of an approaching 
 ilorm from the ibuthward* In this fituation Captain 
 Cook hefitated for a iliort time (as night was then 
 appro^'^hing) whether he ihould fail immediately, or 
 flay till the next morning. But his anxiety to proceed 
 upon the voyage, and the fear of lofing fo good an 
 opportunity of getting ou]t of the Sound, operated more 
 flrongly upon his mind than the apprehenHon of dan- 
 ger, and he refolved to put to fea. 
 
 King George's Sound was the appellation given by 
 the Commodore to this inlet, on our firfl arrival ; but 
 he was afterwards informed that the natives called it 
 Nootka. Its I latitude is 49** 33'' north, its longitude 
 233^ 12^ eafi. 
 The trees, of wliich the woods are principally com- 
 
 pofed 
 
 
 f;;' 
 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
1*82 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 \i 
 
 pofed are the Canadian pine, white cyprefs, and two 
 or three other forts of pine. The two firft are in the 
 greateft abundance, and, at a diftance, refemble each 
 other, though they are eafily diftinguiihed on a nearer 
 view, the cyprefs being of a jxiler green than tlie other. 
 In general, the trees grow here with great vigour, and 
 are of a large fize. 
 
 About the rocks and borders of the woods, we faw 
 fome ilrawberry plants, and rafberry, currant, and 
 goofeberry builies, all in a ilourifhing ftate. 
 
 Lying in a cove on ain iiland, all the animals that 
 we faw alive, were two or three racoons, martins, and 
 fquirrels: fome of our peonle, indeed, who landed on 
 the continent, on the fouth-ea(l fide of the Sound, 
 iaw the prints of a bear's feet not far from the fliore* 
 - Birds are far from being numerous here, and thofe 
 that are to be ieen are remarkably fhy, owing, per- 
 haps, to their being continually harrafied by the na- 
 tives, either to eat them, or to become poliefied of 
 their feathers to be worn as ornaments. There are 
 crows and ravens, not diHering in the leaft from thofe 
 in England ; alfo a jay or magpie ; the common wren, 
 which is the only fniging bird we heard; the Canadian 
 thruih; the brown eagle^ with a white head and tail; 
 a fmall fpecies of hawk ; a heron, and the large creded 
 American king fiflier. 
 
 The quebrantahueflbs, fhags, and gullsj were feen 
 off the coaft ; and the two Tail were alfo frequent in 
 the Sound. There are two forts of wild ducks, one 
 of which was black with a white head, the other was 
 white, and had a red bill. Some fwans too were once 
 or twice feen flying to the northward, but wearc un- 
 acquainted with their haunts* ' 
 
 Though the variety of fiih is not very great here, 
 they are more ptentiful in quantity than birds. The 
 principal forts are the common herrings* which are 
 very numerous, though not exceeding feven inches in 
 length; a fmaller fort, which, though larger tlian the 
 anchovy, or fardine, ii of the fame kind; a filver- 
 
 coloured 
 
PACIFIC OCEATT. 
 
 »83 
 
 coloured breain> md another of a gold brown colour, 
 with narrow bl»e ftripes. 
 
 The only reptileis obferved here were brown fnakes, 
 about two feet in length, having whitifti ftripes on the 
 back and fides ; and brownifh water lizards. The for- 
 mer are fo harmlefs, that we have feen the natives carry 
 them alive in their hands. The infedl tribe feem to bie 
 more numerous : for, though the feafon for their aj)- 
 pearance was only beginning, we faw feveral different 
 forts of butterflies, all of which were common : we 
 alfo found fome humble bees ; goofeberry moths, a few 
 beetles, two or three forts of flies, and fome mufquitoes. 
 
 Though we found both iron and copper here, we 
 did not imagine that either of them belonged to this 
 place. We did not even fee the ores of any metal, 
 except a coarfe red ochry fubilance, ufed by the na- 
 tives in painting or flaining themfelves. ^ 
 r. The ilature of the natives is in general below thef 
 ^mmoa Aandard ; but their perfons are not propor^ 
 tionably flender, being ufually pretty plumps though 
 not xiiufcular. Moft of the natives have round full 
 vifages, which are fonietimes broad, with high promi- 
 nent cheeks. Above thefe, the face frequently appears 
 fallen in quite acrofs between the temples: me nofe flat- 
 tens at its bafe, has wide noflrils, and a rounded point. 
 The forehead is low, the eyes fmall, black and languish- 
 ing; the mouih round^ the lips thick, and the teeth regu- 
 lar and well fet, but not remarkable for their wliitenefs* 
 
 Their beards and eye-brows are (canty and narrow; 
 but they have abundance of hair on the head, which 
 is ftrong, black, i^raight, and lank. Their necks ar<B 
 fhort, and their arms are rather clumfy, having no- 
 thing of beauty or elegance in their formation. The 
 limbs, in all of them, are fmall in proportion to the 
 other parts ; befides, they are crooked and ill-formed, 
 having projcdling ancles, and large feet aukwardly 
 fhaped. The latter defe6l feems to be occafioned, in 
 a great xneafure, by their fitting fo continually on then: 
 hams or knees. 
 
 The women in general are of the fame iize, colour, 
 
 and 
 
 Si 
 
 f 
 
 fi 
 
 
 i ft 
 
 ■: 
 
 1. ■ 
 
m 
 
 ..J 
 
 184 A VOYACETO THE 
 
 and form, with the men; nor is it cafy to diAinguiih 
 them, as they poflefs no natural feminine delicacies. 
 Nor Was there a fingle one to be found, even among 
 thofe who' wefe in their prime, who had the leafl pre- 
 tenfions to beauty or ccmelinefs, -J 
 
 Their drefs, in common, is a flaxen kind of mainle, 
 omaiiiehted with a narrow ftripe of fur on the upper 
 edge, and fringes at the lower edge. Pafling under 
 the left arm, it is tied over the right ihoulder, leaving 
 both arms perfe(flly free. Sometimes the mantle is fat- 
 tened round the waift by a girdle of coarfe matting. 
 Over this is worn a fmall cloak of the fame fubftance, 
 reaching to the waift, alfo fringed at the bottom. They 
 we*ir a cap like a truncated cone, or a flower pot, 
 made of very fine' matting, ornamented with a round 
 knob, of a bunch of leathern taflels, having a firing 
 pafling under the chin, to prevent its blowing ofiv 
 
 Their bodies are always covered with red paint, but 
 their faces are ornamented with variety of colours; a> 
 bl^k, a brighter red, or a white colour: the lafk of 
 thefe gives them a ghaftly horrible appearance. Many 
 of their ears are perforated in the lobe, where they make 
 a large hole, and two fmaller ones higher up on the 
 outer edge. In thefe holes are hung bits of bone, 
 quills fafl^ned upon a leathern thong, fhells^ 
 bunches of tafTels, or thki pieces of copper. In 
 fome, the feptumoi the nofe is alfo perforated^ and 
 a piece of cord drawn through it. Others wear^ at: 
 the fame place, pieces of copper, brafs, or iron, ihaped 
 fomewhat like a horfe-fhoe, the narrow opening re* 
 ceiving the/eptumy fo that it may be pinched gently 
 by the two points, and thus the ornament hangs over 
 the upper lip. - mf^i m/ 
 
 'Among the people of Nootka, one of the drefles 
 {eejris peculiarly adapted to wan It is a thick tann^ 
 leathern mantle doubled, and appears' to be* the fkin of 
 an elk, 6t buffalo. This is faflencd Oft in the ordinary 
 manner, and is fo contrived as to- cover the breaft 
 quite up to the throat; part of it, at the fametime,. 
 falling dowri to ♦their heels. This garment is, fame- 
 
 times, 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN*' l8j 
 
 times, very curioufly painted, and is not only flrong 
 enough to refift arrows, but, as we underflood from 
 them, even fpears cannot pierce it ; fo that it may be 
 confidered as their completeft defenfive armour. 
 
 From their exhibiting human ikuUs and bones to 
 fale, there is little reafon to doubt of their treating 
 their enemies with a degree of brutal cruelty; but, as 
 this circumflance rather marks a general agreement of 
 character among almofl every uncivilized tribe, in every 
 age and country, they are not to be reproached witn 
 any charge of peculiar inhumanity. Their difpofition) 
 in this refpe6^, we had not any reafon to judge unfa- 
 vourably of. They appear to be docile, courteous, and 
 good natured ; but they are quick in refenting injuries, , 
 notvvithflanding the predominancy of their phlegm ; 
 and, like all other pai&onate people, as quickly for- 
 getting them. 
 
 A rattle, and a fmall whiAIe, are the only inilru- 
 ments •£ mufic which we have feen among them. Tb<* 
 rattle is ufed when they fing ; but upon what occafioiif 
 the whiftle is ufed, we never knew. 
 
 The only inhabited parts of the Sound feem to be 
 the two villages already mentioned. A pretty exa£l 
 computation of the number of inhabitants in both, 
 might be made from the canoes that viiited our fliip^ 
 the (econd day after our arrival. They condfted of 
 about a hundred. Which, upon an average^ containecl 
 at leaft iive perfons each. But, as there were very 
 few women, ^d men, children, or youths, then among 
 them, we may reafonably fuppofe, that the number of 
 the inhabitants of the two villages could not be lefs than 
 four times the number of our vifitors; being two thou- 
 fund in the whole. 
 
 Their houfes confift of very long broad planks, 
 reflingu^on the edges of each other, tied, in different 
 parts, Mwith witbes of t>ine-bark. They have only Hin- 
 der pofts on- the outflde, at confiderable diftanccs from 
 each other, td which they are alfo fattened ; but there 
 are ibme larger poles within, placed ailant. The fides 
 arid enijs of thefe habitations dre about feven or eight 
 
 feet 
 
 i| «i 
 
 el It 
 
m 
 
 m 
 
 186 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 £eet in height, but tlie back part is fomewhat higher. 
 The plaiikS) therefoie, which compute the roof, ilant 
 far\^ard, aad, being loofc, may be moved at ixleafure. 
 They may either be put dole to exclude the rain, or 
 feparated to admit the hght in fine weather. 
 
 The furniture of their houfes confifts principally of 
 chefts and boxes of various fizes, piled upon each other, 
 at the fides or ends of the houie ; in which are depo- 
 fited their garments, Ikins, mafks, and other articles 
 that are deemed valuable. Many of them are double, 
 or the upper one ftrves as a lid to the otlnsr : foiue 
 have a lid faftened with thongs; others, that are very 
 large, have a fquare hole cut in the upper part, for tlie 
 convenience of putting things in, or taking them out. 
 T'hey are frequently painted black, ftudded with the 
 teeth of animals, or rudely carved with figures^ ot 
 birds, &:c. as decorations. They have alio fquare and 
 oblong pails ; round wooden cups ajid bowls ; wooden 
 troughs, of about two feet in length, o^it of which 
 they eat their food; bags of matting, bafkets of 
 twigs, &c. 
 
 The irregularity and confufion of their lioufes is, 
 however, far exceteded by their nailinefs and ftench. 
 They not only dry their fifh within dooips, but they 
 ^fo gut them there; which, together with their bones 
 and fragments thrown upon the ground at tneals, oc- 
 ca^ifr'feveral heaps of filth, whidx are never removeil, 
 till it becomes troublefome, from their bulk, to pal's 
 over them^ Every thing about the houfe ftinks of 
 train-oil, fifli, and fmoke ; and every pajf t of it is as 
 Bi^y as can be imagined. 
 
 \<; The men feem to be chiefly employed^ hi fiihing, and 
 killing animals for the fuftenance of their familiesi 
 §ew of them being feen eiigaged in any bufmefs hi the 
 houfes-; but the v^omen were occupied in manufac- 
 turing their garments, and in curing theii* ra^r^iiaes, 
 which they alfo carry from the canoes to their houfes. 
 •The women alfo go in the fmall catioes^ to gather ajufr 
 icles and Other (hell-fiih. They are as dexterou Ws the 
 ttjcn ia the management of thefe <anoes; and when 
 * there 
 
PACIFIC O C*E A K, 
 
 187 
 
 there are men in the canoes with them, they are paid 
 very little attention to on account of their fejt, none 
 of the men offering to relieve them from the labour of 
 the paddle. Nor do they ihew them any particular 
 I'd'pedl or tendernefs on other occafions. 'it» 
 
 I'he young men arc remarkably incklent ; being ge- 
 nerally fitting about, in fcattered companies, bafking 
 themfelves in the fun, or wallowing in the fand upon 
 ihe beach, like fo many hogs, without any kind of co^ 
 \ ering. This difregard of decency was, however, con- 
 •fniL'd folely to the men. The women were always de» 
 ceiitly cloathed, and behaved with great propriety; 
 juilly meritinj^ all commendation for a modeft bamful^ 
 nefs, fo becoming in their fex. In them it is the mori 
 meritorious, as the men have not even a fenfe of fliame. 
 
 Their greatefl reliance for food feems to be \tpon xht 
 fea, as affording fifh and fea-animals- The principal 
 of the firfl are herrings and fardines, two fpccies of 
 biTcaniii and fome fmalfcod. The large mufcle is art 
 effentiai article of their food, which is found in great 
 abundance in the Sound. The land animals^ at this 
 time, appeared alfo to be fcarce, as we faw no ile^ be- 
 longing to any of them ; and, though their (kins were 
 to be had in plenty, they might, perhaps, have becft 
 procured by traffic from other tribes. It plainly ap** 
 pears, therefore^ frotti a variety of circuraftanc^s, that 
 thcfc people are furnilhed with the princijNd part o€ 
 their animal food by the fea ; if we except a few gulls^ 
 and focne other birds, which they flioot with theit 
 arrows. ... * •».-. ; \^. — . . . • i • 
 
 Their only winter v^getabfes feeitt to be the Cana^ 
 dian pine-branches, and fea-grafs; but, as the fpring 
 advances, th<^y u(e others as they come in feafbn. 
 
 Small marine animalis, in their fredi ftate, are fome*- 
 times ieaten raw; though it is their ordinary practice to 
 roaft or broil their food ; ^ they are abfolute ftrangers 
 to our method of boilingj^ as appears from their manner 
 of pr<p^ng jH»poife broth ; befides, as they have only 
 wood^ ve^«, it i« impdfible for them to perform fuca 
 an (^ration* T^r manner cf eating .cotre^>onds^ 
 
 with 
 
 » , i^" 
 
 il 
 
 I 
 
 !l 
 
 ■ ' J ■;■' 
 
 H> 
 
i88 
 
 A V of A G E TO THE 
 
 
 U'itfi the naflinefs of their houfes and perfohs ; for the 
 platters and troughs, out of which they eat their food, 
 feem never to have been wafhed fincc their original for- 
 mation ; the dirty remains of a former meal, being 
 only fwept away by a fucceeding one. Every thing 
 folid and tough they tear to pieces with their hands 
 and teeth; for, though their knives are employed in 
 cutting off the large portions, they have not yet endea- 
 voured to reduce thefe to mouthfuls by the fame means, 
 though fo much more cleanly and convenient. But 
 they do not poilefs even an idea of cleanlinefs, and con- 
 ftantly eat the roots which are dug from the ground, 
 without attempting to fhake off the foil that adheres to 
 thenu /* y' 
 
 They have bows and arrows, fp rs, flings, (hort 
 truncheons made of hone, and a fma . pick- axe, fome- 
 what refembling the common American tomahawk. 
 Some of the arrows are pointed with irony and others 
 with indented bone; the fpear has ufually along point 
 made of bone. The tomahawk is a ftone of the length 
 of feven or eight inches, one end terminating in a 
 point, and the other fixed into a wooden handle. 
 -. 'jThe defigd and execution of their manufactures and 
 mechanic arts, are more extenfive and ingenious than 
 could poffibly have been expedied, from the natural 
 difpojQtion of the people, and what little progrefs they 
 had made in civihzatioiu Tiie flaxen and woolkn 
 garnients engage their £ril care, as being-the'moA ma- 
 terial of. thofe that may be clai{ed und«r the head of 
 manufactures. The farmer are fabricated frorti th^ 
 bark of the pine tree, beat into a mafs refembling hemp. 
 
 Their fondnefs for carving on all their wooden arti- 
 cles, correfponds with their tafte in working figures 
 upon their garmtots. Nothing is to be fiwn l^ithout 
 a kind of frizetwork^ or a teprefentattioii ^^ fome 
 animal upoot it;L but the inoft general ^gu^e 4s'€h^t of 
 the human face. 
 
 Though the flrufture of their canoes is fimple, 
 they appear well calculated for every ufeful pmfpofe. 
 The lai^eft, which contain upwards of twenty people, 
 
 are 
 
PACIFIC '"C« AN, 189 
 
 are formed of a fingle tree. The length of many- of 
 thom is forty feet, the breadth feven, and the depth 
 three. They become graduall y narrower from the mid- 
 dle toward i each end, the ftern ending perpendicularly, 
 with a knob at the top. The fore- part ft retches for- 
 wards and upwards, and ends in a point or prow, much 
 higher than the fides of the canoe, which are nearly 
 ftraight. The greatcft part of them are withoutany 
 oniament ; tome have a little carving, and are ftudded 
 with feai's teeth on the furface. Some have alfo a kind 
 of additional prow, ufually painted with the figure of 
 fome animal. They have neither feats nor any other 
 fupporters, on the infide, except fome fmall round 
 fticks, about the fize of a walking cane, placed acrofs, 
 about half the depth of a canoe. They are very light, 
 and, on account of the breadth and flatnefs, fwim firm- 
 ly, without an out-rigger, of which they are all defti- 
 tute. Their paddies, which are fmall and light, refemt^ 
 ble a large leaf in (hape, being pointed at the bottom, 
 broad in the middle, and gradually becoming narrower 
 in the (haft ; the whole length being about &vt feet. 
 By conjflant u(e, they have acquired great dexterity in 
 the management of thefe paddles ; but they never make 
 ufe of any fails. 
 
 For fiihing and hunting, their inftruments are ing&^ 
 nioufly contrived, and completely made. They con- 
 fifl of nets, hooks, and lines, harpoons, gigs, and an 
 inftrument refembling an oar. The afiiftance th^iy re> 
 ceive from iron tools, contributes to their dexterity in 
 wooden performances. Their implements are ahuoft 
 wholly made of iron; at leaft, we faw but oriechiiTel 
 that was not made of that metal, and that was only of 
 bone. The knife and the chiffel are the principal forms 
 that icon ^umes amongft them. The chifiel confifts 
 of a fiat long piece, faftened into a wooden handle* 
 A fboae is t}mt maUet, and a bit of fiih-ikin their po^ 
 When ^>f i nuru.ii vds 
 
 Little knowledge can we be fuppofed to have acquired 
 of the political and religious inftitotions cfftablifhed 
 among thefe. people. . We difcovered, however^ that 
 
 there 
 
 » 
 
 
 t. 
 
 
 .! . 
 
 I. 
 
 n 
 
 'it' 
 
 k 
 
m >^ 
 
 
 1^0 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 there were fuch men as chiefs, diftinguiilied by the 
 title of j^cweeky to whom the others are^ in fome de- 
 gree, lubordinate. But the authority of each of thefe 
 great men feems to extend no farrfier dian to his own 
 family, who acknowledge him as their head« As they 
 were not all elderly men, it is poffible this title may btj 
 hereditary. / -^^t in'r -rr I- ■ 
 
 Their language is neither harih nor difagreeable, 
 farther than proceeds from their pronouncing the k 
 and h with lefs foftnefs than we do. As to the cdm- 
 pofition of their language, we are enabled to fay but 
 'little. ■! ■"' si'"^'--^ ■ '■' '■•y* ,--v.9iU!' 
 
 We put to fea, in the evening of the a6th of April, 
 with manifeft indications of an approaching ftorm; 
 and thcfe figns did not deceive us. We had fcarce failed 
 out of the Sound, when the wind fhifted from north- 
 caft to fouth-eaft by eaft, and blew a ftrong gale, with 
 fqualls and rain, the iky being at the fame time uncom- 
 monly dark. Between one and two o'clock in the af- 
 ternoon, there was a perfedl hurricane; fo that the 
 Commodore deemed it exceedingly dangerous to run 
 any longer before it : he tlierefore brought the Ihips to, 
 with their heads to the fouth. In this fituation, the 
 Refolution fprung a leak in her ilarboard quarter, which, 
 at firft, alarmed us extremely; but, after the water 
 was baled out, which kept us employed till midnight, 
 it was kept under by means of one pump. The wind 
 having, in the evening, veered to the fouthward, its 
 fury in fome meafure abated; upon which we ftretched 
 to the weft ; but about eleven, the gale again increafed, 
 and continued till five the next morning, when the 
 Horm began to moderate. ■r^rCi<'-it} •^.^:j - ,v, 
 
 ii^iOn Friday the ift of May, not feeing land, wc 
 fteered to the north-caft, having a freih breeze at fouth 
 fouth-eaft and fouth, with fqualls and ftiowers of hail 
 and rain. About ieven o'clock in the evening wedef- 
 cried the land, at the diftance of twelve or fourteen 
 leagues. At four the next morning, the coaft was feen 
 Jrom fouth-eaft to north by weft, tne neareft part of it 
 being five or ixx leagues diftant. At this time, the 
 iriii*.; '• north- 
 
by the 
 
 ■ne de- 
 f thefe 
 lis own 
 Is they 
 may be 
 
 •eeable, 
 the k 
 e cdm- 
 ay but 
 
 April, 
 
 ftorm; 
 e failed 
 
 north - 
 ?, with 
 incom- 
 the af- 
 lat the 
 
 to run 
 hips to, 
 on, the 
 which, 
 ; water 
 dnight, 
 e wind 
 ard, its 
 retched 
 creafed, 
 ben the 
 
 nd, wc 
 It fouth 
 of hail 
 we def- 
 burteen 
 ira^ feen 
 irt of it 
 ne, the 
 north- 
 
 PACIFIC OCE A.N. rp* 
 
 northern point of an inlet, or, at leaft, what appealed 
 to be one, bore eaft by foath ; and from it^-to the nojth- 
 ward, there feemed to be many bays and harbours abng 
 the coaft. Between eleven and twelve, we paiTed a clut- 
 ter of little iflands fituate near the continent, t5 the 
 northward of the fouthern point of an extenfive bay. 
 An arm of this bay feemed to extend in towards the 
 north, behind a round lofty mountain that flands be- 
 tween it and the fea. To this mountain Captain Cook 
 gave the name of Mount Edgecumbe ; and the point 
 of land projedling from it, he called Cape Edgecumbe. 
 The latitude of this cape is 57^ 3^ north, and its lon- 
 gitude 224*^ 7'' eaft. .- . ,, ,, ,,^ . 
 
 We had now light- breezes from the north-weft, 
 which continued feveral days. We fteered to the fouth^ 
 weft and weft-fouth-weft, till the morning of the 4th> 
 when we tacked andftood towards the ftiore. 
 
 On the 6th, at mid-day, the neareft land was at the 
 diftance of about eight leagues* In a north-eafterly 
 direftion, there appeared to be a bay, and an ifland 
 near its fouthern point, covered with word. In the 
 afternoon we founded, and found a muddy bottom at 
 the depth of about feven fathoms. Soon after\vards> 
 having a light northerly breeze, we fteered to the weft^ 
 ward; and at noon, the next day, we were at the dif- 
 tance of four or five leagues from the ftiore. 
 . On Sunday the loth, at twelve o'clock, we were 
 about three leagues diftant from the coaft of the con- 
 tinent. To the weftward of the latter direction was an 
 iiland, at the diftance of fix leagues. A point, which 
 the Commodore named Cape Suckling, projedls to- 
 wards the north-eaftern end of this ifland. 
 
 On the 1 2th, at noon, the eaftern point of a fpa- 
 cious inlet bore weft-north-weft, about three leagues 
 diftant. From Compf-oller^s Bay to this point, which 
 the Commodore named Cape Hinchingbroke, the di- 
 re6lion of the coaft is nearly eaft and weft. The wind 
 was now fouth-eafterly, and we were menaced with ^ 
 fog and a ftorm ; and Captain Cook was deftraus of 
 getting into fome place to ftcyp the kak, before we had 
 
 another 
 
H 
 
 9* A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 another gale to encounter. We therefore fleered, for 
 the inlet, which we had no fooner reached, than the 
 weither became exceedingly foggy,, and it was deenied 
 neceflary that the fhips Aiould be fecured in fome place 
 or oflier, till the fky fhould clear up. With this view 
 we hauled clofe under Cape Hinchingbroke, and call 
 anchor before a fmalJ cove, over a clayey bottom, in 
 eight fathoms water, at the diflance of abouf two fur- 
 longs from the fliore. 
 
 Mr. Gore was fent on ihore, in order to fhoot fome 
 birds that might ferve for food. He had fcarjcely 
 reached them, when about twenty natives appeared, in 
 two large canoes ; upon which he returned to the fhips, 
 and they followed him. They were unwilling, how- 
 ever, to venture along-fide, but kept at a little diflance, 
 ihouting aloud, and clafping and extending their arms 
 alternately. They then began a kind of fong, much 
 after the maiyier of the inhabitants of King George's 
 or Nootka Sound. Their heads were flrewed with fea • 
 thers, and one of them held out a white jgarment, 
 which we fuppofed was intended as a token of friend- 
 fhip; while another, for near a quarter of an hour, 
 ilood up in the canoe, entirely naked, with his arms ex- 
 tended like a crofs, and motionlefs. Though we re- 
 turned their figns of amity, and endeavouiwd, by the 
 moll expreffive geflures, to encourage them to come 
 along-fide, we were unable to prevail upon them. 
 Though fome of our people repeated feveral of the moft 
 common words of the language of Nootka^ they did 
 not appear tc underfland them. After they had received 
 fome prefents that were thrown fo them, they retired 
 towards tlie fhore,^ intimating, by figns, thdcv they 
 would pay us another vifit the next morning. .■Two of 
 ^hem, however, came o^ to us in the night, each in 
 a fmall canoe; hoping, perhaps, that they might find 
 us all afleep, and might have an opportunity of pilfer- 
 ing ; tor they went away as foon as they perceived them- 
 felves difcovered. 
 
 We now got up our anchors and made fail, and foon 
 jdifcovered an excellent biy or harbour ; but the wea- 
 
PACIFIC OCEA K. I95 
 
 ther proving very tempefluous, we were obliged to 
 drop our anchors much i'ooner than we intended. Du- 
 ring our flay here, the natives behaved with great info'- 
 lence, attempting to Ileal ^ur boats, and even to plun- 
 der the Difcovery. As we were on the point of weigh- 
 ing anchor in order to proceed farther up the bay, the 
 wind began to blow as violently as before, and was at* 
 tended with rain ; infomuch that we were obliged ta 
 bear away the cable again, and lie fafl. In the evening, 
 perceiving that the gale did not abate, and thinking that 
 it might be fome time before an opportunity of getting 
 higher up prefented itfelf^ the Commodore was deter-r 
 mined to heel the fhip in our prefent flation ; and, with 
 that view, caufed her to be moored with a kedge-aiichor 
 and hawfer. One of the failors, in heaving the anclio|r 
 out of the boat, was carried overboard by the buoy-? 
 rope, and accompanied the anchor to the bottom, in 
 this very hazardous fituation, he had fuf&cient prefencji 
 of mind to difengage himfelf, and come up to the fur^ 
 face of the water, where he was immediately taken up, 
 with a dangerous fra<Slure in one of ki$le^s. Eady the 
 following morning, we heeled the fhip, in order to flop 
 the leak, which, on ripping oi^ tlieiheathing, was found 
 to be in the feams. While the carpenters were employed 
 in this bufinefs, others of our people filled the water- 
 calks at ailream not far from our ilation. The wind 
 had, by this time, confiderably abated ; but the wea- 
 ther was hazy, with rain. ^m^iim 
 
 On Saturday the i6th, towards the evening, the 
 weather cleared up, and we then found ouri^ves en- 
 compafTed with land. Our flation was on the eaflern 
 fide of the Sound, in a place diflinguifhed by the ap- 
 pellation of Snug-corner Bay. Captain Cook, ac- 
 companied by fome of his officers, went to take a furvey 
 of the head of it, and they found that it was flickered 
 from all winds, and had a muddy bottom at the depth 
 of from feven to three fathofns. The land near the 
 fhore IS low, and well wooded. The clear ground 
 was covered with fnow, but very little rema^ined in 
 the woodst The fummit? of the hills in the neigh- 
 
 K bourhood 
 
 : 'a 
 
 I I •! 
 
 i-ii 
 
 i'', ■ 
 
!I94 AVOYACE TO THE 
 
 •l^urhodd were covered with wood ; but thofe tliat 
 were at a greater difbince inland, had the appearance 
 of naked rocks involved with fnow» > ..^ .^.^.. 
 
 The leak of the Refolutiou being at length flopped, 
 we weighed anchor on the 17th, at four in the morn- 
 ing, and {leered a north-weft courfe. When we had 
 reached the north-weftern point of the arm wherein 
 we had anchored, we obferved that the flood tide came 
 into the inlet by the fame channel through which we 
 had entered* This circumftance did not much con* 
 tribute to the probability of a paflage to the north 
 through the inlet, though it did not make entirely 
 agaifift it. After we had paiTed the point above men- 
 tionedy we met with much foul ground, and many 
 Sunken rocks. The wind now failed us, ^d was fuc- 
 ceeded by calms and variable light airs, fo that we had 
 feme difficulty m extricating ourfelves from the dan- 
 ger that threatened us. At laft, however, about one 
 4>V;lock9 we caft anchor in about thirteen £uJ^omfi ,wa- 
 ter, under the eaftern fhore, about four league&^o the 
 northward of ourlaft ilation. . Though the weather in 
 the mohaing had been very hazy, it cleared up after- 
 wards, fo as to afford ais a diftin6l view of all the/ur- 
 rounding land, particularly towards the north, ^faere 
 it appeared too clofe. This gave us but little hop^of 
 meeting With a paflage that way- TThat he migiit,be 
 enabled^to form a better judgement, Captaip Cook ^eht 
 Mf. Gore, with two armed boats,- to examipe thejiior" 
 thern arm; and at the fame time 4i.rp}itched;the Maif- 
 ter, with two other boats, ^ to furvey ano^r arirt th^t 
 feemed to incline towards the eaft. Kqth of th^m.^^- 
 tumed at night. The Mafter informed the Coijigm- 
 dore, that the arm to which he had been fent i^ompu- 
 nicated with that we had laft quitted, and tKa^ jane 
 fide of it was formed |)y a clufter of iilands, - Mt. 
 Gore reported, that he had ken the entrance of\an 
 arm, which, he thought, extended a very coufiderbble 
 way to the north-ei^ward, and by which a paflage 
 miglit probably be found. On the other hand, Mr. 
 Roberls, one of the Mates, who had accompanied Mr. 
 
 Gore 
 
. :j P A C I F I C O C E A K. V , I95 
 
 Gore on this occafion, gave it as his opinion, that they 
 law the head of this arm. The variation of th^fe.twp 
 opinions, and the circnmflance before mentioned of the 
 flood tide entering the inlet from the fowthward;, ren- 
 dered the exiftence of a paiTage this wjiy exti^mely. un- 
 certain. Captain Cook therefore determined to em- 
 ploy no more time in feeking a paflage in a ph^Q that 
 afforded fo fmall a profpe6l of fuccefs, particularly. as 
 the wind was now become favourable foi getting out 
 to fea. Mi ^.^.„^'. fuvf /£.'.'; *iir«' .1,^'.; «..,.,...,. |_ _,-. 
 
 The next morning, about three o'clock, wt weighed 
 and made fail to the fouthward down the inlet,. with a 
 light northerly breeze. We met with the fanie bro- 
 ken ground as on the preceding day, but foon, e;^|i^l- 
 cated ourfelves from it. We were enabled to fligrteiii 
 our way out to fea, by difcovering another p^fiage iv\tp 
 this inlet, to the fouth-weft of that by which w^ cen- 
 tered. ' It is feparated from the otlier by. an ifland tj^at 
 extends eighteen leagues in the dire(5lion of fbuthrwe^ 
 and north-^eaft, to which Captain Cook gayg the , ap- 
 pellation of Montagu lfland,>Ar.?i A: !>;*»> fo »vt/,vvr*rn>'* 
 
 The inlet which we had now quitted -^v^? 4^^^^" 
 guiOied by Captain Cook with the n?me of Prince 
 WiUiam's Sound. From what we faw of it, it feems 
 to occupy, at leaft, one degree and an half of latitude, 
 and two degrees of longitude, exclufive of the branches 
 or arms, with whofe extent w* were unac(|uai^ted. 
 The natives whom we faw were, in general, of a ipid- 
 dling flature, tbou^ inany of them, were, under it. 
 They were Iquare, or ft^png chciled, withihcyrt, thick 
 ^iWeks, and large broad viiages, which were for the 
 ilNift part rather flat. The moil difproportioned part 
 of ^heir body appeared to be their lieads, which were of 
 great magnitude. Thpit' tedtji were of a tolerable, 
 whitenefs, broad, well fet^ aud -equ^U in /!?§€., Their 
 nofes had' full, round points, turned; up. at ^>^ tip ; and 
 their eyesj though not fmall, were fcaEi^}.y propor- 
 tioned to the largenefs of their faces. They had black 
 hair, which, was itrpng, iftraight, and thick. Their 
 beards were^ in general, thin, or deficient : but the 
 
 K 2 , V hairs 
 
 'li 
 
 ;{ 
 
 ' 'i 
 
 : : 
 
 
 I'P 
 
 'Ml 
 
 II 
 
 "k 
 
 ■■ i 
 
 :;-» 
 
is i 
 
 
 \m • 
 
 M,' '.<.;'•■ 
 
 '■•::! fa 
 
 T^iS A VOYAGE TO t H E 
 
 hairs gto#iflg about the lips of thofe who have them, 
 Wer^, briftly or ftiiF, and often of a browniih colour ; 
 and fome of the elderly men had large, thick, Araight 
 
 ' The naen, women, and children of tltis Sound are 
 aJl clothed in the fame manner. Their ordinary drefs 
 is a fort of clofe frock, or rather robe, which fome- 
 timci reaches only to the knees, bwt generally down to 
 the ancles. It has, at the upper part, a ho|e juft fuf- 
 ficient to admit the head, with fleeves reaching to the 
 wrift. Thefe frocks are compofed of the ikins of va- 
 rious animals, fuch as the gray fox, racoon, pine mar- 
 tin, fea otter, feal, bear, 6cc. smd they are commonly 
 worn with the hairy fide outwards. Some of the na- 
 tives have their frocks made of the fkins of fowls, with 
 ^nly the, down left on them, which they glue upon 
 other fubflances : we alfo faw one or two woollen gar- 
 iments, refembling thofe of the inhabitants of King 
 George's Somid. At the feams, where the difieretit 
 ikins are fewed together, they are ufually adorned 
 with fringes or taflels of narrow thongs, cut out of 
 the fame mins. There is a fort of cape or collar to a 
 few of them, and fome have a hood ; but the other is 
 the moft cullomary form, and appears to conftitute . 
 their whole drefs in fair weather. They put over this, 
 when it is rairiy, another frock, made with fome de- 
 gree of ingenuity from the inteftines of whales, or of 
 fome other large animal, prepared with f^ich ^illy as 
 to refemble, in a great meafure, our goldbeaters' leaf. 
 It is formed fo as to be drawn tight round the neck ; 
 and its fleeves extend down to the wrift, round whifh 
 they are fattened with a ft ring. *.^? ^' v: w N 
 
 Though the inhabitants of this inlet, in general, do 
 not cover their legs or feet, yet fome of them wear 
 a kin of Ikin ftockings, reaching half way up their 
 thighs. Few of them are without mittens for theirs 
 hands, formed from the (kins of a bear's paws. Both 
 the men and women perforate their ears with feveral 
 holes, about the outer and lower part of the'edge^. 
 wherein they fufpend fmall bunches of bead«. Theyviy;' 
 
 ► v: alfo 
 
 •^c.; 
 
'Vkkjf 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. 19/ 
 
 alTo perforate xhtfeptum of the nofc, through Which 
 theyalfo thruft the quill feathers of birjsj or ^ttl^ 
 bending ornanients, made of a tubulpus fhelJy fub-^ 
 fiance, flrung on a iliffcord, of the length of three or 
 four inchesi which give them a ridiculous and grotef<}ue 
 appearance. But the moft extraordinary ornamental 
 fafliion, adopted by fome of tjbe patives of both fexes^ 
 is, their having the under lip cut quite through l(c;ngth- 
 wife, rather bebw the fwelling part. This incifiou 
 frequently exceeds two inches in length, and either by 
 its natural retra^ion while the wound is fiill freAi, or 
 by the repetition of fome artificial management, af? 
 fumes the appearance and ihape of lips, and becomes 
 fufficiently large to admit the tongue through* This 
 happened to be the cafe, when a perfon with his under 
 lip thus flit was firf^ feen by one of our failors, who* 
 immediately exclaimed^ that the man had two mouths ^ ' 
 which, indeed* it greatly refembles. They £:( in thi$ 
 artificial mouth a fiat, natrow kind of ornament, made 
 principdly out of a folid ^ell or bone, cut into fmall' 
 narrow pieces, like teeth, almofi down to the baf^ or 
 thick part, which has at each end a projedling bit, that 
 ferves to fupport it when put into the divided lip, the 
 cut part then appearing outwards. Some of them only 
 perforate the lower lip into feparate holes ; on which 
 occafion the ornament confifls of the fame number oi 
 diflinft flielly fluds, the points df which are thruH 
 through thefe holes, and their heads appear within tha* 
 lip, not unlike another row of teeth ui^er their natur; 
 ral ones. ^'^^^ v ' / • 
 
 The men often paint their £ices of a black colour»: 
 and of a bright red, and fometimes of a blueifh or 
 leaden hue ; but not in any regular figure. The wo- 
 men pun£lure or Aain the chin with black, that comes 
 to apoint in each of their cheeks ; a cuflom fiinilar to^ 
 which is in vogue among the'Greenland females, as 
 weareinfi)rmedby Ctantz. '^^J 
 
 Their canoes are of two forts; the one large and 
 open, the other fmall and covered. The framing co^t 
 fifis of flender pieces of wood, aiid t^ outfide is-com^'^ 
 
 
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 .,; 
 
 ■' : 
 
 li 
 
 ■ f f 
 
 •:■.'' 
 
 I, 
 I. 
 
s^ 
 
 A ^VOYAGE to 
 
 H E 
 
 )■;?. 
 
 f'|S'-J 
 
 S''^ 'i ■ -■! i 
 
 i 
 
 H 
 
 if 
 
 
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 [■ i|^ '; 
 
 li ; ', 
 
 ¥' 
 
 1 
 
 |l^' 
 
 f n ,;'■ ■ ..,:. 
 
 H< 
 
 pofed of the fkins of feals, oi' other fea animals, flretch- 
 td over the wood. 
 
 * Their weapons and implehients for hunting and 
 ^(hing are the fame with thoie ufed by the Greenlan- 
 4ers aii^ Efquimaux. Mahy of their fpears are headed 
 jW^thjronV and their arrows are generally pointed with 
 tone. Their larger darts are thrown by means of a 
 piece of wood about a foot long, with a fro all groove 
 m' the middle, which receives the dart: at the bottom 
 is a hole for the reception of one finger, whic^ enables 
 „ them to grafp the piece of wood much firmer, and to 
 fpirovr with greater force. 
 
 ... It is uncertain with what tools their wooden^uten- 
 £ls, frames of canoes, &c. are made, the only one 
 that we obferved among them being a fort of ilone 
 aiize, fomewhat refembling thofe of Otaheite, and 
 other iflands of tKe Pacific Ocean. They have a great 
 quantity of iron knives, fome of which are rather 
 
 . pUrved, others flraight, »tt3 fome very imali ones, 
 
 -ixed in longi/h handles, with the blades bent upwards. 
 They have alfo knives of another fort, fometimes al- 
 
 . lOoA two feet in length, fhaped in a great meafure 
 like a dagger, with a ridge towards the middle. I'hey 
 yrear thefe in (heaths of fkins, hung by a thong round 
 their necks under their robe or frock. It is probable 
 tjiat they ufe them only as weapons, and that their 
 other kniVes are applied to diflferent purpofes* 
 
 The food that we faw them eat wasithefieih of iwipe 
 amn^al, cither toafled or broiled, and dried fiib. Soipe 
 of the former that was purchafed had the appearance of 
 bear's flefli. They like wife cat a larger fort of fern 
 root, either baked or drefled in fome otlier i|iethod. 
 Some of us obferved them eat freely of a ijabAance, 
 '. which we imagined was the interior paft of the pine 
 r^ailc. Theff'drink; in all probability, is water; Tor in 
 
 'iffieir kartoes thejr^ brought fnow \in fwooden veiflfels, 
 
 ., -which tlv5y fwallowed by mouthfuls. Th^ir manner, of 
 
 caftrjg is decehf and cleanly* f6r they confiantly took 
 
 care to remove aiiy dirt tliat might adhere to. their 
 
 ' food; and though th«y wo«ild fometimes c»t the. raw 
 
PACIFIC OCEAW, 
 
 ^99 
 
 fat of fome fea animal, they did not fail to c.ut it care* 
 fully into mouthfuls. , ^ 
 
 Our knowledge of the animals of this part of the 
 American continent is entirely derived from the fl^ins 
 that were brought by the natives for fale. Thefe were 
 principally of bears, common and piiie maptihs, f^a 
 otters, feals, racoons, fmall ermines, foxe$, ' sihd tl^ 
 whitifh cat or lynx. 
 
 Befides thefe animals, there is here the white bear, 
 of whofe fkins the natives brought feveral pieces, and 
 fome complete (kins of cubs. 'I'here is alfo the Wol- 
 verene, or quickhatch, whofe fkin has verv bright co- 
 lours ; and a larger fpecies of ermine than the common 
 oncj varied wFth brown, and having fcarcely any 
 black on its tail. 
 
 With refped to birds, we found here the halcyon, 
 or great king fifher, which had fine bright colours ; 
 the fhag ; the white-headed eagle ; and the humming 
 bird, which often flew about our ihips vvhile we lay at 
 anchor. The water fowl feen by us were black lea 
 pyes. With red bilk; geefe; a fmall fort of duck, add 
 ahothfer fort with which none of us were acquajitted. 
 ' ^ The fifh that were pri'ncipalTy brought to us by the 
 natives for fale, were torik and halibut ; and we caught 
 fonie fculpins about the fhip, with flar fifh of a pur- 
 plifh hue, that had fixteen or eighteen rays. The 
 rocks were almoft deftitute of ihell fifh ; and the only 
 dther' animal of this tribe that was obferved by lis was 
 It feddifii Crab, c6vered with very large fpiiies. * 
 * The metals feen by us were iron and copper ^ both 
 which, but more particularly the former, were in fuch 
 abuhdartce, as to form the points of numbers of their 
 lances and arrows^ The ores which they made ufe of 
 tb pMtit themfelves with, were a brittle, un£hious, 
 r^'octej; or iron ore; a pigment of a bright blue^ and 
 ' bla^k 1^^ Each of thefe f^emed to be vety fcarce 
 ;ahVdrtg^henii,^'' Mxi^n^'fr^f^^r^ < ^ /- "•■. ^>' :—%',>■'-;-" 
 ' '"We obferved few vegetables of any kind ; and the 
 tTcefi that chiefly grew about this Sound were the Ca- 
 
 K 4, - nadiaai 
 
 |i 
 
 4 ■ 
 
iROO 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 i \'\ 
 
 «' '., 
 
 II 
 
 !• i 
 
 \m.i 
 
 nadian and fpruce pine, fom^ of which were of a con* 
 ^derable fize. " "- 1 , , ,. , *^ 
 
 ' Leaving Prince William's Sound, on Wednefday the 
 aoth of May, we fteered to the fouth- weft with a gen- 
 tle breeze. We continued to flretch to the fouth-weft, 
 ahd paiTed a lofty promontory, in the latitude of 59^ 
 10^, and the longitude of 207** 45^. It having been 
 difcOvered on Princefs Elizabeth's birth day. Captain 
 Cook gave it the name of Cape Elizabeth. As we 
 'cotald fee no land beyond it, we flattered ourfelves that 
 it was the weflern extremity of the continent ; but we 
 Vrere foon convinced that we were miftaken, freih land 
 appearing in fight, bearing weft-fouth- weft. The 
 /wind had now increafed to a ftrong gale, and forced us 
 to a confiderable diftance from the coaft. On the a 2d, 
 iti the afternoon, the gale abated, and we ftood for 
 Cape Elizabeth, Which about noon next day bore weft^ 
 dlftant ten leagues* / ,/.; 
 
 By variable light airs and calms, we were detained off 
 the Cape till ten o*clock in the morning of the 25th, 
 vHien a breeze fpringing up, we fteered along the 
 coaft, and perceived that tlie land of Cape St. Hermo* 
 . geftiss was an ifland about fix leasues in circumference, 
 Kpaurated from the coaft by a channel of about one 
 league in breadth. .--^ 
 
 bt. Herinogenes elided in a low pointy named Point 
 Banks. The ftiip was at this time in the latitude of 
 5^ 41% and in the longitude of 207^ 44^ In this^ 
 Situation the lar\d Was in fight, bearing north-weft|^ 
 which, ft was imagined, conne6ied Cape Elizabeth' 
 with' this fouth-weft land. When we approached it, * 
 we Taw it wa^ a group of high iilands and rocks, and 
 confequehtly unconnedled with any other land. From 
 the nakedftefs of l^ir appearance they were denomi- 
 nated th6 Barfeh Ifles. They are fituated in the lati- 
 tude of 50S thi^^. leagues diftant from Cape Elizabeth, 
 and five from Point Hanks. j ^; , . ^ , ,. > , . 
 
 The wcathei-, which had been thick and hairy, 
 cleared up towards the evening, and we perceived a, 
 very lofty promontory, wbofe devoted fummit ap- 
 peared 
 
P'Aorrrc qcteak. 
 
 istoi 
 
 peared above the clouds, forming two exceeding high 
 mountains. The Com^iodore named this promoixtory 
 Cape Douglas, in honour of his friend Dr. Doiiglas^ 
 canon of Windfor. Its latitude is 5SP56', anf it^r'v 
 longitude 206^ iQ^ ; twelve leagues from Point B^njkv 
 and ten to the weflward of the Sarren Hies. 
 
 On the 26th, at day break, being to the northw?>r4 
 of the Barren Tiles, we perceived more l^d^ extendii^ 
 from Cape Douglas to the north. It cQpflfted of j^ 
 chain of very high mountains ; one of whiqh, bein^, 
 much more conipicuous than the xtCt, obtained x!bp 
 name of Mount St. Auguilin. , ^ .^ , 
 
 We were not difcoqraged at perceivii^ thi$ lar^d* 
 fuppofing it to be wholly uncounedted with the lai^4 
 of Cape Elizabeth. We alfo .expe<Sted to find a pajfr 
 fage to the north-well, between C;ipe Douglas ;u;i^ 
 Mount St. AuguAin. It was, indeed, imagined, th^^ . 
 the land to the north of Cape Douglas coulifted of ^ 
 group of iflands, ieparated by fo many chaanels, finy 
 of which we might have choien, according to the 4*" 
 redlion of the wind. 
 
 Flattered with thefe ideas, and having a fre^ 
 at north-north-eaft, we Hood to the north-weft 
 eight o'clock, when we were fully convince^ tji^ 
 what we had fuppofed to be illands, were fupvn^rts .qp 
 mountains, connedled by the lower laiid^ whicli ycq 
 could not pf^-ceive at a greater diflance, on account 
 the hazinefs of the horizon. This land was coverec 
 wholly with fnow, from the tops of the mountaii^* 
 down to the fea beach, and had in every other refpet^ 
 the appearance of a great continent. Captain Coo^ 
 was now fully convinced Aat he ffeould difcover no 
 pafTage by this inlet ; and his perfevering in thefcarG^.. 
 of it was more to fatisfy others thj^i ^9^ cpn6i:xn hi? . 
 own opinion* * , - . ■' f * 
 
 After various and fruitlefs atte?npt«;to ^i^^oycf i 
 pafTage through the inlet, it was tojtally^iven up, iwj 
 Captain Cook named it River Turnagain. We ^laj 
 traced it to the latitude of 6i° 31"!, ajpd the longitude 
 of 2 10% which is upwards of j^Qymt-y leagues frprt) i^s" 
 
 K 5 • 'ehtrance;^ 
 
 l:i 
 
 i 
 
 ! :• 
 
m 
 
 A VOYAGE TO TKfi 
 
 if 
 
 entrance, and'faw 'no appearance of its fouree.^ The 
 tins»e ^e fp«nt,in the dilcovery of this great river ought 
 i)d| to. be regretted, if it ihould hereafter prove ufeful 
 to. tb^ Rrefent or any future age. But the delay thus 
 bccalipin^d \^as an eflential lofs to iis, who had an ob^ 
 j^£t qf ;greater magnitude in view. The feafon wa« 
 far advanc^; and it was now evident that the conti- 
 nent pf NortH America extended much farther to the 
 wefl than we had reafon to expeft from the moft ap- 
 
 ♦. proved charts. The Commodore, however, had the 
 iattsfadtion to reflet, that if he had not examined this 
 very lai:ge river, fpeculative fabricators of geography 
 .*would bave ventured to ailert, that it had a commu- 
 nioatipQ with the fea to the north, or with Hudlbn's 
 . ,or Baffin's bay to the eafl ; and it would probably have 
 1)een marked, on future maps of the world, with as 
 much appearance of precidon as the imaginary Straits 
 of de Fuca and de Fonte. 
 
 Mr- King was again fent, in the afternoon, with 
 tWo arn^ed boats, with orders from Captain Cook to 
 livnd tm ttie fputh-eaft fide of the river, where be was 
 ,tO-difplay the £ag, and in His MajeRy's naniet^ tajve 
 
 ?^pofie^on of the country and the river. He wasglfo 
 Oiidered to, bury a bottle in the earth, containing foipe 
 
 , JKtigRfb, cpin w X 772, and a paper, whereon were writ- 
 l^tthe fni^s of our diips and the date of our difcove^ 
 
 *^'p%, This point of {and was named Point Pofl^ffion*. 
 
 -;* ^henjt was high water we y;eighed anplior, .3f)d, 
 with a feint breeze, flood oyer ixy the weft ihore; ' wji^re 
 
 .wfe anchored early the next morning on Recount of the 
 
 ,.? Teturfi of thefiood* 
 
 >'. iW^e weighed at^ half pafi ten^ and plied down the 
 
 ? riyerry»^h a ^ntje bre^ae at fouth, w|ieo^ by the in- 
 
 ^A^t^xipm of^ti^e man at the jead, the Refolutlon f^ck, 
 
 i<4ifind^ft^^;U3on,a b^nk nearly in tKe i^ictdle of\the rir- 
 >»er..5,5W^.had twelve .feet depth ", pi^; w^ter ' abp^t ! ijhe 
 *ip»;.#d*e'/lowe^ of the ^el^^ but. the bai#.%as dry 
 
 yKffifiej^i^ canfie aground, Captaiii CJook 
 
 ^a^m^lnal fort^ to anpKof. We were 
 
 ' » trt » 
 
Pacific ocean. 
 
 aoj 
 
 aftterwards informed, that (he had been almoft a(hore 
 on tfte weft fide of the bank. About five o'clock in 
 the afternoon, as the flood tide came in, the rtiip 
 floated ofl^ without fuftaining any damage, or occafion^ 
 ing the leaft trouble. We then ftood over to the weft 
 fiiors, where we anchored in deep water, to wait for the 
 ebb, the wind being ft ill unfavQurable to us. ^-^f- ''^ 
 
 At ten o'clock at night we weighed with the ebb, 
 and, about five the next morning, the 3d of June, the 
 tide being finifhed, we caft anchor on the weft fliore, 
 about two miles below the blufi^ point. When we 
 were in this ftation we were vifited by many of the na- 
 tives, who attended us all the morning ; and, itideed, 
 their company \vas highly acceptable to us, as they 
 brought with theni a quantity of flneTalmon, which 
 they exchanged for fome of our trifles. Several huri-* 
 dVed weight of it was procured for the two ftiips^ and 
 the greateft part of it was fplit, and ready fordtying.^ 
 
 The mountains now, for the firft time after out en- 
 tering the river, were free from clouds^ and we per- 
 ceived a volcano in one of thofe bn the weftiern fide. 
 Its latitude is 60® 23^ ; and it is ^he firft high' moun- 
 tain north of Mount St. Augufiin. The volcano is 
 near the fumn\it, and on that part of th^e mountain 
 next the river. It emits a white fmoke,^ but no fire. 
 The wind continuing foutherly, we ftill tided it down 
 the river, and on the morning of the 5th, arriving «t 
 the place where we had loft our kedge anchor, we a^ 
 tempted, though unfuccefsfuiiy, to recoW it. "■•<*' 
 ' The ebb tidb making m our favour, we weighed, 
 aind, with a gentle breeze at fouth-weft, plied down 
 the river. The flood, however, obliged us to anchor 
 again; but -rfbout one o'clock the next mornings we 
 got urtHer fail v^ith a freftV breezr, pafled the barren . 
 liiands about ei^t, and kt npdh Ca^ Sf^ Hermo^enet 
 botfef6Uth-fouth^eaft,a!J6uJ'etght leagues diftanf. * We 
 ilitended to ^o through thfe paflTage between the ifland 
 of that name and the main land : but the wind foon 
 after failed us, and we had baffling airi from the eaft- 
 ward; we, therefore, abandoned the defign of carry- 
 ing onirihip through that pulHige. 
 
 K.6 The. 
 
 1 1 
 
 n 
 
 I 
 
 
 
ti 
 
 :ll. 
 
 1 i 
 
 hi 
 
 "•yf 
 
 
 Mm 
 
 U*j 
 
 11 
 
 Zf:': 
 
 ii 
 
 ao4. 
 
 A VOYAGE r <} THE 
 
 The 9tb, loth, and nth, we iiad conilant mifly 
 weather, with fome rain, and feldom had a fight of the 
 €oail ; we had a gentle breeze of wind, and tae air 
 was raw and cold. We continued plying up the coaft> 
 
 In the evening of the 1 2th, the fog clearing up^ v«re 
 faw t)te land about twelve leagues diftant, bearing weft, 
 and we flood in for it early the next morning. At 
 noon we v;ere within three miles of it ; an elevated 
 point, which was named Cape Barnabas, in the lati- 
 tude of 57° J^\ bore nor th-north-ea^, at the diftance 
 of about ten miles. We could not fee the north-eaft 
 extreme for the haze, but che point to the fouth-weft 
 had an elevated fummit, which terminated in two 
 round hills, and was therefore called Two-headed 
 Point. This pait of the coaft is principally compofed 
 of high hills and deep vuiiies. 
 
 We continued to ply, j^nd, at about fix in the even^ 
 ing. being about midway between Cape Barnabas and 
 Two-headed Point, two leagues from the fhore, we 
 had fixty-two fathoms water. Here a low point of 
 land was obferved, ijcaring fouth 69° weft. On the 
 14th, at noon, we weie in the latitude 56°4<j^. The 
 land feen the preceding evening now appeared like two 
 illands. We were up with the fouthernmoft part of 
 1.his land the next morning, and perceived it to be an 
 ifland, which obtained the name of Tririty Ifland. Its 
 gceatell: extent, in the ;lire<Slion of eaft and weft, is 
 iabout fix leagues. It l^as naked elevated land at each 
 ^nd, arid is low towards the middle. Its latitude is 56^ 
 ^6^^ and its longitude 205°. It isdiftant about thr^ 
 Jeagaes from the continent, between which rocks and 
 inlands are interfperfed ; there feems, neverthelefs, to bf 
 a good paflage, and iafe anchorage. We at fii-ft ima- 
 gined thi\t tliis was Beering's Foggy Ifli^id ; but it^ 
 fituatiqn is npt ngresable to his chart, '^^'t ^i lAjidv/ 01 
 'On Wedn'efday the 17 th, we had gentle breezes be^ 
 tw^<?n weft and north-weft; the weather was j»erfo£lily 
 <jlear, and the air dry and ftiarp. The continent, about 
 noon, extended from fouth-wcft to north by eaft ; th6 
 i^ari?ft part about fovea or eight leaguis diftant; a 
 
 A> 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 ao5 
 
 group of iflands lying to the fouth-weft, about the 
 iame diitaiice from the continent. 
 
 The weather was clear and pleafant on the i8th, 
 and it was calm the greateil part of the day. 
 
 The Commodore having occailon to fend a boat to 
 the Difcovery, one of ^the people on boaid her fhot a 
 mofl b^utifui bird. It is fmaller than a duck, and 
 the colour is black, except that the fore part of cb? 
 head is white; behind each eye, an elegant yellowifh 
 white creft arifes ; the bill and feet are of a reddiih 
 colour. The firft we faw of thefe birds was to th^ 
 fouthward of Cape St. Hermogenes; after we faw 
 them daily, and frequently in large flocks. We often 
 faw moil of the other fea birds, that are ufuallj met 
 with in the northern ocean; fuch as fhags, guUs, 
 puffins, iheerwaters, ducks, geele, and fwans ; and we 
 leldom pafTed a day, without feeing whales, feals, and 
 other fifh. of great magnitude. ." .; . 
 
 By four o'clock in the afternoon, we had pafled ie- 
 veral iflands to the fouth of us. We found thirty fa-^ 
 thorns water in the channel ; and foon after we bad 
 got through it, the Difcovery, which was two miles 
 ailern, fired three guns and brought to, making a 
 fignsl to ipeak with us. Captain Cook was much 
 alarmed at this ; for, as no apparent danger had been 
 obferveo in the cha.inel, he was appreheniive that the 
 Difcovery had forung a leak, or met with fome flmilar 
 accident. A boat was fent to her, which immedi- 
 ;itely returned with Captaia Clerke* He informisd the 
 Commodore, that fome natives, in three or four ca* 
 noes, having followed the ihip for fome time, at laft 
 got under his Aern ; one of whom made many ilgns, 
 having his cap off, and bowing in the European man* 
 ner. A rope was then handed down from the. fliip, 
 to which he faflene4a thin wooden box, ^^nd, after he 
 had made (bme more gefticulations, the canoes left the 
 Pi(covery.. //■ ij^iit^: fwj^rij' ■ ;^,m^ r%ti- . ;..J--rtr: <>.rvv .^^av/ 
 
 It was not imagined that the box contaij;ied any 
 thing till the canoes 1m4 departed; when it was aqci- 
 dentaliy opened^ mid found to contain a piecQ ofj)!^ 
 -, • , per, 
 
aod 
 
 A rO-VACBTO T H £ 
 
 per, carefiilly' folded tip, on which fome wnting^ a|i* 
 peared, which they fuppofed to be in tlie Ruflbn Ian* 
 guage. To this paper was prefixed the date of 1778, 
 and a reference Vas made therein to the year 1776* 
 Though unable to decyplier the alphabet of the wri- 
 ter, we Were convincied by his nuriierals, that others 
 had preceded us in vifiting thefe dreary regions* In-* 
 deed the hopes of fpeedily meetmg fome of the Ruffian 
 traders, muft be highly fatrsfactory to thofe, who had' 
 been fo long converfant with the favages of the Pa- 
 cific Ocean, and thofe of the continent of North 
 Amen'ca. ?<-. 
 
 At firft Captain Gierke imagined that fome Ruffians 
 had beeti fhipwrecked here; and that feeing our (hips^ 
 the(e unfortunate perfons were induced ta inform u$ 
 of their fituation. Deeply imprelTed with fentimcnts 
 of humanity on this occafion, he was in hopes the 
 Refolution would have flopped till they had time to 
 join us ; but no ibch idea ever occurred to Captain 
 Cook. If this had really been the cafe, he fuppofedj 
 that the firft ftep which fuch (hipwrecked perfons 
 would have taken, in order to fecure relief, would have 
 been, to fend fome of their people off to the Ihips in 
 the canoes. H«, therefore, rather thought, the pa- 
 per Was intended to communicate fomfj information, 
 from fome Ruffian trader, who had lately vifited thefe 
 Ifiands, to be delivered to any of his countrymen wlio 
 d^ould arrive; and that the natives fuppofing us to be 
 Ruffians, had brought off the note. Convinced of this, 
 he enquired no farther into the matter, i>ut made farl, 
 and fteered to the weft ward. ; ? r *> 
 
 At noon^ on the a i ft, we- made but little progrefs, 
 having^ t^n'7 faint winds and calms. Halibut Head 
 then boric north 24*^ weft. This ifland is feven leagUea 
 ill tircumference, and, except th« head, is very low 
 and barren; feveral fmall iilands are near it, between 
 whkh and the main, there appears to be- a pftftage of 
 the breadth of two or thl^ leagues. >- *'>j v .'s c i 
 
 Having three hours calm in the aftemobn, upwanis 
 o#^ an hMndred halibuts were caught by our people^ 
 
 i . • ' fome 
 
ting: aiii 
 
 an lan^ 
 
 fi778, 
 r 17761 
 he wri- 
 t others 
 
 IS* In- 
 Ruffian 
 ''ho had 
 :he Pa- 
 North 
 
 l^uffians 
 fhips, 
 ►rm us 
 iments 
 as the 
 Ime to 
 *aptain 
 ►pofedj 
 »erfons 
 d have 
 lips in 
 'le pa- 
 latioHy 
 ithefe 
 1 Vfho 
 stobe 
 f this, 
 le iarl, 
 ■ fV ■■ ■ 
 
 grefs) 
 Head 
 agtiea 
 
 r low 
 
 ween 
 
 ige of 
 
 ^ards 
 Jop!e< 
 fome 
 
 fopi^<if which weighed upwards of an hundred poundsy 
 and none of ttem lefs than twenty. They were highly 
 acceptable to us. We fiihed in thirty-iive fathoms 
 water> about a mile diftant from the Aiore. 
 
 The weather was principally cloudy and hazy, till 
 the afternoon of the 22d) when tlie wind fhifted to the 
 fouth-eafl, attended, as uiud> with thick rainy, wear 
 then ..' 
 
 On the 24th, at fix in the morning, we faw the 
 continent, and at nine it extended from north-eaft by 
 eafV, to fouth-weft by well; the neareft part four 
 leagues diflant. The land to the fouth-weft coniifted 
 of iflands, being what we had feen the preceding night. 
 In the evening, being about the diftance of four Jeagues 
 from the fhore, and having little wind, we threw out 
 our hooks and lines, but caught ptily two or thr^e litr 
 tle cod. V r \' 
 
 ' ^ We got an eafterly breeze the next morning, and 
 with it, what was very uncommon, clear weather ; 
 inibmuch, that we clearly fa w the volcano, the other 
 mountains, and all the main land under them. Be- 
 tween this point and the illands, a large* opening ap- 
 peared, for which we fteered, till land was feen ber 
 yond it; and though we did not perceive tliat this 
 hiPA joined the continent, a pafiage through the opeiir 
 ^nti was doubtful, as well as whether the land Xo tlie 
 f o h-^weft was infular or continenal. Unwilling Id 
 u\.i\ too much to appearances, we fteered to th? /putBr 
 ward; when, having got without all the land in figl^ 
 we fteered weft, the iftands lying in that direfiion* ] 
 
 We derived but little advantage from daylight, the 
 weather being fo thick that we could not difcover ob* 
 je6is at the diftance of a hundred yards ; but, as the 
 wind was moderate, we ventured to run. Son)ie.how 
 afic; r, the fogbeing a- little difperfed, we difcoyerei} the 
 imminent danger. wet had efcaped. We were *hree 
 quarters of a mile from the north -eaft fideolf an iAanc); 
 two elevated rocks were about half a league from ixs, 
 and from each other. Several breakers alfo appeared 
 about them; and yet Providence had fafely condu^d 
 
 the 
 
 f 
 
 f 
 
 ii 
 
 5* 
 
 ■ ■ I 
 • i 1 
 
 ■ : i 
 
 -I'i 
 
 Hn 
 
 m 
 
 3 
 
 $ 
 
 '': ' ■'. 
 
208 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 If.? 
 
 the fhips through in the dark, between thofe rocks, 
 which we fhould not have attempted tq have done 
 in a clear day, and to fo commodious an anchoring 
 place. •"'*^'^' * :.n.^ '^r^^- •- ■ 
 
 Being fo near land, Captain Cook ordered a boat 
 alhore, to^ynmine what it produced. When fhe re- 
 turned' in thi^ afternoon, the oflScer who commanded 
 her faid, he faw lome grafs, and other fmall plants, 
 one ©f which had the appearance of purilain; but the 
 Uliand produced neither trees nor fhrubs. 
 
 We weighed at feven o'clock, and fleered between 
 the iiland near which we had anchored, and a fmall one 
 not far from it. The breadth of the channel does not 
 exceed a mile, cini the wind failed before we could 
 pafs through it ; • rere therefore obliged to anchor^ 
 which we did in t*iirty-four fathoms water. Land 
 now prefented itfelf in every dire6lion. That to the 
 fouth, extended in a ridge of mountains to the foutli- 
 weft ; which we afterwards found to be an ifland called 
 Oonalajbka* 
 
 Between this iiland and the land to the north, 
 which we fuppofed to be a group of iflands, there ap- 
 peared to be a channel in a north-weft direction. On 
 a jK)int, weft from the fhip, and at the diftance of 
 three quarters of a mile, we perceived feveral natives 
 and their habitations. To this place we faw two> 
 whafes tow^ in, which we fuppofed had juft been 
 killed. A few of the inhabitants, occaftonaliy came 
 off to tlie ifeips, and engaged in a little traffic with 
 our people, 'but never continued with us above a quar- 
 ter of Ml hour at a time. They feemed, indeed, re- 
 markably ftiy; though we could readily difcover they 
 Were not uiiaccuainted with veiflels fimilar in fome 
 degree to ours. Their manner difplayed a degree of 
 politehefs which we had never experienctd among any 
 of the favage tribes. 
 
 About One in the afternooil^ being favoured wftli 
 
 a light breeze, and the tidp of flood, >ve weighed, and 
 
 proceeded to the channel laft mentioned ; expetSling, 
 
 when we had pafT^ through, eitlier to fiud the land 
 
 ,<j trend 
 
PACIFIC O C E A K. 20t) 
 
 trend away to the northward, or that we fhould difco- 
 ver a pailhge out to fea, to the weft. For we did not 
 fuppofe ourfelves to be in an inlet of the continent, 
 but among the iflands; and we were right in our con- 
 jectures. -^ /L/^.lv/.V. :^m}i r*^ i 
 
 We weighed the next morning at day break, and 
 were wafted up the paflage by a light breeze at fouth; 
 after which we had variable light airs from all direc- 
 tions* There was, however, a rapid tide in our fa- 
 vour, and the Refolution got through befote the ebb 
 made. The Difcovery was not equally fortunate, for 
 fhe was carried back, got into the race, and found a 
 difficulty in getting clear of it. ,,i^ .^w a \ 
 
 Being now through the channel, we found the landy 
 on one fide, trending weft and fouth-weft, and that 
 on the other fide to north* This encouraged us to 
 hope, that the continent had taken a new dirediion in 
 our favour. Being fhort of water, and expeiSling to 
 be driven about in a, rapid tide, without wind fuffici- 
 ent to govern the fhip, we ftood for a harbour on the 
 fouth fide of the paflhge, but were driven beyon^ it; 
 alid, that we might not be forced back through the 
 pailage, anchored near the fouthern fhore, in twenty- 
 eight fathoms water, and out of the reach of the 
 flrong tide ; thoMgh even here it ran £ve knots and an 
 half an hour. 
 
 In this fituation, we were viflted by feveral of the 
 natives, in feparate canoes* They bartered fbme fifh* 
 ing implements for tobacco. A young man among 
 them overfet his canoe, While he was aiong-fide one 
 of our boats* He was caught hold of by one of our 
 people, but the canoe was taken up by another and 
 carried afhore. In consequence of this accident, the 
 youth was obliged .to. Qon^e into the fhip, where he was 
 invited into thecabin^ and readily acceptjed the invita- 
 tion, wit]K>ut any furprize or embariafim^nt* (le 
 had on an upper gaiimeaf refembling a fhirt, made of 
 the gut of a v^alc, or fome rpther large fea animal. 
 Under tlijs, he had another of the fpime form, made 
 pf the ikins of birds with th? feAther$ on, curioufly 
 .. / fewed 
 
 *! 
 
 I ' 
 
 J 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
 
 V ;| 
 
 'i 
 
 lll^ 
 
aio 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Vf 
 
 |t;V: 
 
 fewed together; the feathered fide placed ne>ct his (kin. 
 It was patched with feveral pieces of fdk ftwfF, and his 
 cap was emhellifhed with glafs beads. r 
 
 His clothes being wet, we furnifhed him with fome 
 of our own, which he put on with as much readinefs as 
 we could have done. F'rom the behav-iour of this 
 youth, and that of feveral others, it evidently appeared, 
 that thefe people were no ftrangers to Europeans, and to 
 many of their cnftoms. Something in our iliips, how- 
 ever, greuly excited their curiofity; for, fuch as had 
 ilot canoes to bring them oiF, aflembled on the- neigh- 
 bouring hills to have a view of them. 
 
 We were detained by thick fogs and a contrary wind, 
 till the fecond of Jlily; during which time we acquired 
 fbme knowledge of the country, as well as of its in- 
 habitants. . This harbour is called Samganoodha, by the 
 natives ; is fituated on the north fide of Oonafafhka, 
 the latitude being 53^ 55'' the longitude 130^ 30''; 
 anid in the flrait which feparates this illand from thofe 
 to the north. It is about a mile broad at the entrance, 
 and runs in about four miles fouth by weft. Plenty 
 of good water may be procured hcr^ but not a piece 
 of wood of ar.y kind. 
 
 On the 2d of July we fteered from Samganoodha, 
 with a gentle breeze at fouth-fouth-eaft, to tbe*nprth- 
 ward, and met with nothing to obftrudt us in ihsx 
 
 "" On Saturday the 4th, at eight o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, we faw high land, covered with fnow. Not long 
 after we had a calm; and being in thirty fatliams 
 water, we caught, with hook and line, a good nu^n- 
 ber of excellent cod. 
 
 We made but little progrefs on the ^th and 7th, 
 ai the wind was northerly. In die evening^of the tat- 
 ter day, about eight o'clock, the depA -of wafer ?y^s 
 nineteen fathoms, ahd we were three or four- le^gt<es 
 from the coall, which, on Wedwfday the 8thr*1^" 
 tended from fouth-fouth-weft to eafl by iiOFthif ;ai>d 
 wa$ all low land, with a ridge of mountain^ cohered' 
 with fnow behind it. 
 
 On 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 211 
 
 his (kin. 
 ', and his 
 
 ith fome 
 dinefs as 
 
 of this 
 ppeared, 
 s, and to 
 )s, how- 
 1 as had 
 
 neigh- 
 
 ry wind, 
 icquired 
 its in- 
 , by the 
 alafhka, 
 
 ' 30^ 
 m thofd 
 itrance, 
 
 Plenty 
 
 a piece 
 
 noodha^ 
 I'n^rth- 
 in tkvc 
 
 5 morn- 
 ot long 
 
 atiioms 
 i nuin- 
 
 ■^ * ' 
 
 id 7th, 
 :he Jlat- 
 rer vv^s 
 
 hif-sMad 
 oTerjKd' 
 
 On 
 
 '^^ On the ninth, in the morning, having a breeze at 
 lorth-weft, we fteered eaft by north, in order to make 
 a nearer approacli to the coaft. We were now in the 
 longitude of 201^ 33^ eaft, and in the latitude of 57'' 
 49'' north. In this fituation, our foundings w^rc 
 fifteen fathoms, over a bottom of fine black fand. 
 ^'■^I'^om this time to the ift of Arf^uft, we continued 
 our courfe northward, meeting with variable winds, 
 and being frequently entangled among (hoals.and iflands, 
 which ionfiderably retarded our progrefs. I'o one of 
 the illande we difcovered in tliis run, Captain Cook 
 gave the name of Round Illand. It ftands in the la- 
 titude of 58° 37^ north, and the longitude of 200° 6^ 
 eaft, and is feven milei. diftant from the continent. •.♦ 
 * On the 2d of Auguft, our latitude was 60° 34^ 
 north, and ouF longitude 192'' eaft. ;,4 
 
 Between three and four o'clock tliis afternoon, Mr. 
 Anderfon, furgeon of the Refolution, expired, after he 
 had lingered under a confumptibn for upwards of a 
 twelvemonth. He was a fenfible intelligent younj^ 
 ' man, and an agreeable companion. He had great (kill 
 in his profeflion, and had acquired a conflder^ble por- 
 tion of knowledge in other departments of fcienfc. 
 Our readers will doubtlefs have obferved, Jiow ufeful 
 an ^ftant he had proved in the courfe of the vpys^ge; 
 and if his life had been prolonged to a later pclriody 
 the Public might have received from him many yajna^ 
 communications refpediing the natural hiftory of^ the 
 different places vifited by us. Soon after he had re- 
 igned his breath, we difcovered land to the weftiyard, 
 at the diftance of twelve. leagues. We fuppofed it to- 
 be an iiland ; and the Commodore, to perpetuate the 
 memory of the deceafed, for whom he had a particu* 
 hfr efteem, diftinguiflied it by the name of Ancjer/on's 
 Mandrf The fellowing day Mr. Law, furgeojn pf the 
 Diicovefy^'^ was removed into theKefolution ;gn4.. Mr. 
 8am\i^, the vfwrgeonV.firft mte, pf tj^e Jt^efo^ytioh, 
 was i^pointed ta^ fucceed Mr* Law as furgpo^ pf the 
 
 wvii! 
 
 Difcovery. 
 
 4i«.i 
 
 IC- ' ^Hi-it »i7l'v4 >f'fif|' •»'^T l{/ 
 
 tfct'^-iiJli 
 
 1-. •-.,•' 
 
 > 
 
2X2 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 1:^1 
 
 At three in the afternoon, on the 4th, we iaw land 
 before us, which we imagined to be the continent of 
 America. It appeared rather low next the (ea; but, 
 inland, it rofe in hills, which feemed to be of a tole- 
 rable height. It had a greenifli hue, and was appa* 
 rently deftitute of wood, and free froni fnow* 
 
 On Wednefday the 5th, at ten o'clock in the 
 morning, we ran down, and foon after, anchored be* 
 tween the ifland and the continent in feven fathoms. 
 Not long after we had cafl anchor. Captain Cook, 
 accompanied by Mr. King, and fome other officers, 
 landed upon the iiland. He hoped to have had from 
 it a profpeifl of the coaA and fea towards the weft; 
 but in that direction, the fog was fo tmck, that the 
 view was not more extenfive than it was from our 
 ihips. The coaft of the continent feemed to incline 
 to the north, at a low pointy named by us Point 
 Rodney/ 
 
 The latitude of this iiland is 64^ 30^^ north, and its 
 longitude is 193^ S7^ eaft. It is aboqt twelve miles 
 in circiuhference. The furface of the g:cound princi* 
 paity coAiiJtt of large loofe ftones, covered in many 
 pla^eii with mofs and other vegetables, of which 
 fwtnty or thirty diflerent fpecies were obferved, and 
 mo^ of theip were in flower. But the Captain (aw 
 MOt Xtre^ or ikrub, either on the ifland, or upon the 
 nei^^^nng. continent. Near the bf^ch where he 
 iaa^ii,' Sbtsub a cotUiderable quantity of wild purflainy " 
 lDn§irprV,VjP<3^fe9 ^* ^^^ of which he took on board 
 for b(Df^iiig* He faw. feveral plovers, and other dnallt : 
 birds; a^|o\wa? alfo Jeen* At a fmall diftance from 
 that'p6^'t of thefhore where our g^tlemen landed^ 
 they founds^ fledge, which induced Captain Cook to 
 give the iiland the appellation of Sledgf! ifland. It ap* 
 peared to be fuch^|(^e as i^^j^fed l^y the Ruffians in 
 Kamtte,ha^a,..for thj purppib ot^^n^ing goods fr6m 
 one pMice',t6f ^thei; over tl^^ j^w or ice. It wat 
 aboi ^ twenty Inches in breadth, atidten feet in lengths 
 had a fort of^rail work on eacli fide, and was ihod with ^ 
 bone/ Its conilru£tion was admirable^ and its various 
 
 ;,.'„' • parts 
 
 ,i (. 
 
.11 
 
 PACIFIC OCE AN. 
 
 213 
 
 parts were put together with great neatnefs; fome With 
 wooden pins, but for the moft part with thongs or 
 lafhings of whale bone; in confequehce of which, t^ 
 Captain imagined that it was entirdy the workiriin* 
 ilup of the natives.^ ^1*^'^ ' ' ^ »**^'^ ' '"^f:' ; ' ; 
 
 We weighed anchor at three o'clock in the morning 
 of the 6th, iind made fail to the nOrth-weft, with a 
 light breeze from the fouth ward. Between fotif and . 
 five in the morning of the 8th, we had a fight of the 
 north- weft land; and not long afterwards, having a 
 calm^ and being driven by a current towards the (hore, 
 \ve:thonght proper to anchor in twelve fathoms water,' 
 at the diftancc of about two miles from it. A northr , 
 eaftferly breeze fpringing up at eight o'clotk^ we 
 weighed and made fail to the fouth-eaftward, hoping A 
 to iind a paflage between this north-weft land and the„ 
 coaft ; hut we quickly got into feven fathoms wa- '} 
 ter, and perceived low land connedling the two coaftSf ' 
 and the elevated land behind it. t*;-^'- 
 
 Convinced that the whole was a continued coaft, we 
 tacked, and ftecred for its north-weftern part, lieaif j 
 which we anchored in feventeen fathoms. The wca- .; ^ 
 thcr, at prefent, was very thick and rainy; but, a^*',l 
 four the next morning, it cleared up, and enabled us "^^^ 
 ' to difcern the neighbouring land. A lofty fteep fock ^'* 
 or ifland bore weft by fouth; another iUand totjic-^,^ 
 northward of it, and confiderably larger, liore Wefl ^j^ ^ 
 north; the jjeaked hill before mentioned, ToUth-faiS,!''; 
 byeaft; and the point that was under itj fouth, '^ai^\\„v 
 eaft. Under this hill is fome low lartd eictendmg' to^ 
 ward^ the north- weft, the ettreme point of which was 
 about one league diftant. Over it, and alfo beyond it, 
 we obferved fome high land, which we imagined w;is ^ ' 
 a continuation of the continent. ^ ^ 7 ' ^ ^, ^ ' .. , ,] 
 
 This point of land, which the ObmpitRfor^'IdiQiii- * '; 
 guifhed by the name of Cape Prince «f Wales, i^*^ 
 wefternr e^ttreme of all America hitherto kiiown. It ,/ 
 Ibnds in ithe longitude of 10 1® 4y 'eaft, .and.in the ^^Z, 
 latitude of 6<® 46^"itorth; We fancied that* we faw 
 
 tf 
 
 . \ 
 
 ;j 
 
 I 'i 
 
 M- 4 
 
 C M 
 
 li 
 
 i.<C 
 
 fome 
 
214 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 fome people on the coaft ; and, perhaps, we were not 
 miAaken in our fuppofition, as fome elevations like 
 ftages and others refembling huts, were obferved at the 
 fame place. 
 
 At eight o'clock this morning, a faint northerly 
 breeze arifing, we weighed anchor ; but our fails were 
 fcarcely fet, when it began to blow and rain with great 
 violence, there being, at the fame time, mifty weather. 
 The wind and current were in contrary diredtions, 
 raifing fuch a fea, that It often broke into the fhip. 
 We flood on till ten o'clock, and then made towards 
 the eaft, in order to pafs the night. 
 
 On Monday the loth, at break of day, we refumed 
 our courfe for the land feen by us the preceding even- 
 ing. Betwixt the fouth-weftern extremity, and a point 
 bearing weft, fix miles diftant, the coaft forms a^fpa- 
 cious bay, in which we dropped our anchors at ten in 
 the forenoon, about two miles from the northern ftiore, 
 over a gravelly bottom, at the depth of ten fathoms. 
 
 Steering directly in for this' bay, we obferved on 
 the ^ north ftiore, a village, and fome people,: who 
 feemed to have been thrown into confufton, or fear, at 
 the fight of our veflels. We could plainly perceive 
 perfons running up the country with burdens upon 
 theii; flioulders. At this village Captain Cook pro- 
 pofed to land; and accordingly went with three armed 
 boats, accompanied by fome of the officers. Thirty 
 or forty men, each armed with a fpontoon, a bow, 
 alid arrows, ftoqd up on an eminence near the ];iidiufes; 
 three of them cfame down towards the fliore, on the 
 approach of our gentlemen, and were fo polite as to 
 p,uU off tliair cap^, and make them low bows. Though 
 this civility was returned, it did not infpire them 
 with fufficient confidence to wait for the landing of 
 our party; for tli^ inftant they put the boats aftiore, 
 the natives retirejj. Captain Cook followed them alone, 
 without any thing in hl\j hands and by %ns an^ gel- 
 tures, prevailed on theni to ftop and accopt^;iojne 
 trifling prefents: in return for thefe, they gave him 
 two fox ikius, ai;id a couple of fea^horle teeth, "^He 
 
 -.Cap- 
 
 Iff -" "tS" /-** It. 
 
PACIFI^C Oa£AN« 
 
 215 
 
 Captain was of opinion, that they had brouglit thefe 
 articles with them for the purpofe of prel'enting them 
 to him, and that they would have given them to him 
 even if they had exj^edled no return. 
 
 They feemed very timid and cautious ; intiirating 
 their defire by iigns, that no more of our people 
 ihould come up. On the Captain's laying his hand 
 on the ilioulder of one of them, he ftarted back feveral 
 paces; in proportion as he advanced they retreated, 
 always in the attitude of being ready to make ufe of 
 their fpears; while thofe on the eminence were ready 
 to fupport them with their arrows. Infenfibly the 
 Captain and two or three of his companions, mtro^ 
 duced themfelvesy among them. Tlie diflribution of 
 a few beads among fome of them, foon created a^degree 
 of confidence, fo that they were not alarmed, when the 
 Captain was joined by a few more of his people ; and 
 in a ihort time, a kind of traffic wa^ entered into* 
 ^ exchange £[>r tobacco, knives, beads, and other ar- 
 ticles, they gave a few arrows, and fome of their 
 clothing; but nothing that our people had t<^ offer, 
 could induce them to paFt with a fpear or. a bow. 
 Theie they heU In -continual readinis, never quitting 
 them, except at one time, when four or five perfons 
 laid theirs down, while they favoured our party with 
 a fong arid a dance; and^ven then, they placed them 
 m fuch a mau0er> that they couM lay hoM, of them ia 
 a moment. >:■ -^i j.j. . r-:.--;-.^- , .,-.. ,:■...,,•; 
 
 Their arrows were pointed eithef "^ith ftone or 
 bone, but very few. of them had barbs, and fome of 
 them had a round blunt point. What ufe thefe are 
 applied to, we canrot fay, unlefs it be to kill fmall 
 animals without damaging the Ikin. Their bows were 
 fuch as we had obferved on the American coa(l: tbi(?ir 
 fpon toons, or fj^ars, were of, iron or Aeel^ ;in4 of Eu- 
 ropean or Adatic wprkmanihip ; and conGdej able p»*ns 
 Itad been taken to einbelliih tbem with carving, and ih- 
 layings of brafs, and a white metal. Thofe who flood 
 with bows and arrows in their hands, had the fpear 
 Aung by a leathern flrap.over their right Ihoulder, A 
 
 ^' leathern 
 
 ■I I 
 
 I. 
 
fti6 
 
 VOYAGE T« THE 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 A 
 
 B\ 
 
 -^ 
 
 leathern quiver Hung over their left ihoulder^ ferveJ 
 to contain arrows ; and Ibme of thefe quivers were ex- 
 ceecli!f;,!y beaiitihii^ being made of red leather, on 
 vihich was very neat embroidery, and other ornaments* 
 Several otbt i ' 'gS ^^nd particularly their clothing, 
 , indicated a '(^,;ree ci' ingenuity, far furpailing what 
 any one coi:itl expci^ to find among fo northern a 
 
 peoples • , ; iwMi «*it#v« 
 
 Their apparel co- .fifled of a pair of breeches, a cap, a 
 frock, a pair of boots, aiul a pair of gloves, all made of tlie 
 fkms of deer, dogs, feals, and other animals, and ex- 
 tremely well dreffed ; fome with the hair or fur on, 
 and others without it. The caps were made in fuch 
 a manner, as to ,!fit the head very clofe ; and befides 
 thefe caps, which were worn by moft of them, we 
 procured from them fome hoods made of dog (kins, 
 that were firfficiently large to cover both head and 
 fhoulders. 
 
 i The village was compoled both of their winter and 
 the'tr fummer habitations ; th^ former are oxa^^ly like 
 a vault, the floor of which is ftmk below 'the fupface 
 of the earth. One of them which Captain Cook exa- 
 mined, was of an oval figuw, about tv^enty feet, in 
 length, and twelve or more in height; the framing 
 confifted of wood, and the ribs of ivhales, judicioully 
 difpofed, and bound together with' fmaller materials of 
 the fame kind. Over thi$ framing, a covering of 
 ilrong coarfe grafs was laid, and that again was co«^ 
 vercd witii earth; fo that on the outfidej the hoiif^ had 
 the appearaifce of a littk; Mlloek^ fu^lported by a^ wall 
 of flonc, of the height of thtfee or four feet,' which 
 was built round the two fides, *^nd one end. At the 
 other end of the haHtatton, the eaarth was ra^ed Hoping, 
 to: walk: up to the enttance^ whidi ws» by a hole in the 
 top of tbr roof, ovfer that ertd. The ^loor w^^s boarded, 
 and trader it was a fort of cellar; at [th«';^d of e^h> 
 iiohfe War a vaulted rooia» whicli he^ fv^pofed^wac a 
 fVorerroom. Tiicfe ilorc-rooms^ codafmim<cated^ '^\ a 
 dark paOTage with the houie; and with tlie open air by 
 a hole i^ the roofj even widi the^ ground; but iJiey 
 ■*- "'^^ ,r cannot 
 
PACIFIC OC£AN. 
 
 217 
 
 cannot be faid to be entirely t)elo\v g jiind ; for one 
 eiul extended to the edge of the hill along w hich they 
 were made, and which was built up with ftone. Over 
 it flood a kind of fentry-box or tower, formed of the 
 large bones of great fiili. 
 
 Their fummer huts were of a tolerable fize, and 
 circular, being brought to a point at the top: flight 
 poles and bones, covered w^th the (kins of fea animals, 
 compofed the framing. Captain Cook examined the in- 
 fide of one : there was a lire-place juft within the door, 
 where a fe;v wooden vefTels were depofited, all very 
 dirty. Their bed-places were clofe to the fide, and 
 occupied about one half of the circuit: fome degree of 
 privacy feemed to be obferved, for there were feveral 
 partitions made with fkins. The bed and bedding con- 
 fifled of deer fkins, and moft of them were clean and 
 dry. 
 
 The canoes of thefe people are of the fame kind 
 with thofe of the northern Americans; fome, both of 
 the large and fmall fort, being feen lying in a creek 
 near the village. 
 
 From the large bones of fifh, and other fea animals, 
 it appeared, that the fea furniflied them with tlie 
 greater part of their fubfiftence. The coruntry Teemed 
 extremely barren, as our gentlemen faw not a tree or 
 fhrub. At fome diflance towards the wefl:, they cfe- 
 ferved a ridge of mountains covered with fnow, that 
 had fallen not long b(^re» ^ 
 
 At firft, fome of us fti{>pcfed this land to be a part 
 oftheifland of Qlafchk% laid down in Mr, St^hlin's 
 map before mentioned; but from- the appearance of the 
 coafl, the fituation of the oppoftte fixore of America, 
 and from the longitu^, we footi cdn]ei5tur«di that it 
 was more probabk^ tKe county of the* Tfchutlki, or 
 the eaflern c^remity of Afia, exploicd fey^Becring in 
 the year i 7 a^*-' ^ In^adminftigthts, ho wevtrj^^vjithdut 
 farther examiftitldil, Aris* mw hay6 pronojtHced Mr, 
 Stsehlin^s^map^vrind his act^nt of the newnortherii 
 Archipelago, tb be «ither remarkably erroneous, even 
 in latitude, or elfe to hesk mere fi^^lion ; a judgment 
 :i L " ^ which 
 
 
 I 
 
2^2; 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 which we would not prefwine to pafs upon a publica* 
 tion fo refpedlably vouched^ without producing the 
 liioft deciflve proofs. 
 
 After our party had remained with thefe people be- 
 t wen. two and three hours, they returned on board ; and, 
 foon after, the wind becoming foutherly, we weighed 
 .anchor, flood out of the bay, and fleered to the north- 
 eafl, between the coafl and the two iflands. At twelve 
 o'clock the next day (Augufl ii) the latitude of the 
 ihip was 66^ 5}^ north, the longitude 191° 19' eafl. 
 
 We fleered to the eafl ward from this ilation, in 
 order to make a nearer approach to the American 
 coafl; and, in the forenoon of the i6th, we 
 perceived a brightnefs in the northern horizon, 
 like that refle6led from ice, ufually called the blink. 
 Little notice was taken of it, from a fuppofition timt it 
 was improbable we fhould fo foon meet with ice. The 
 fliarpnefs of the air, however, and gloom inefs of the 
 weather, for the t^yr or tliree preceding days, feemed 
 to indicate fome fudden change. About an hour after- 
 wai'ds, the fight of an enormous mafs of ice, left us no 
 longer in any doubt rerpe(5ling the caufe of the bright- 
 nefs of the horizon. Between two and three o'clock, 
 we tacked clofe to the edge of the ice, in twenty-two 
 fathopis water, being then in the latitude of 70*^ 41' 
 north, and unable to fland on any farther : for the ice 
 was perfedliy impenetrable, and extended from weft by 
 fouth, to eall by north, as far as the eye could reach. 
 Here we met with great ninibers of fea-horfcis, fome of 
 which were in the water, but far more upon tSie ice. 
 The Commodore had thoughts of hoi fling out the boats 
 to kill Ibme of thefe animals ; but, the wind frefliening, 
 he gave up the defign ; and we continued to ply towards 
 the fouth, or rather towards the wfcfl, for the wind 
 came from that quarter. 
 
 On Wednefday the 19th, at eight in the niorninff^ 
 the wind veering to wefl, we tacked to the northward ; 
 and, at twelve, the latitude was 70° 6^ north, and 
 the longitude 196® 42^ eafl. In this fituation, we 
 had a r.onfiderable quantity of drift ice about our ihips, 
 
 and 
 
>ACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 ftt^^ 
 
 ig the 
 
 >le be- 
 ; and, 
 eighed 
 north- 
 twelve 
 of the 
 i)^ eaft. 
 lon, in 
 nerican 
 h, we 
 arizen, 
 ; blink. 
 I tl^ it 
 '.. The 
 5 of the 
 
 feemed 
 ur after- 
 -ft us no 
 ; bright- 
 o'clock, 
 
 Lty-two 
 
 the ice 
 weft by 
 
 Id reach, 
 fome of 
 
 Itlie ice. 
 
 [he boats 
 
 hening, 
 
 towards 
 
 wind 
 
 >rnin^* 
 IthWard ; 
 
 th, an«l 
 
 [ion, we 
 
 IV ihips» 
 and 
 
 and the main ice was about two leagues to the north. 
 Between one and two, we got in with the edge of it', 
 It was lefs compadl than that which v/e had obfetrved 
 towards the not th ; biat it was too ciofe, and in too large 
 pieces, to attempt forcing the ihips through it. We ' 
 law an amazing number of fea-horfes on the ice, and ^ 
 as we were in want of frefh provifions, the boats from • 
 each Ihip were difpatched to procure fome of them; ' 
 By feven in the evening, we had received, qn board tha^ 
 Refolunon, nine of thefe animals; which, till thii ' 
 time, we had fuppofed to be fea-cows ; fo that we were 
 greatly difappointed, particularly fqme of the failorsy ' 
 who, on account of the novelty of the thing, had been ' 
 feniling their eyes for fome days paft. Nor would they I 
 .>o\v liave been difappointed, nor have known the dii- ^ 
 fr^rence, if there had not been tv/o or three men on ^ 
 hoard, who hud been in Greenland, and declared what 
 ifiimals tliele were, and that no perfpn ever eat of ^ 
 them. Notwithft anting this, w^e made them ferve n$ •' 
 for provifions, and there were few of our people who* * 
 diiJ not p'ct'er them to our fait meat. «#/ ;*-• r54-*f^^^^ 
 
 The fat of thefe animals is, at firft, as fweet ai • 
 marrow ; but, in a few days, it becomes rancid, un- - 
 lefs it is falted, in which ftate it will keep much longer. 'J 
 The lean flefh is coarfe and blackifh, and has a ilrong 
 tuf^e; and ihe Heart is almoft as well-tafted as that of^^ 
 i bullock. The fat, when melted, affords a goocl ;^ 
 quantity of oil, which burns very well in lamps; and ' 
 their hides, which are of ...great thicknefs, w^re ex«» ^ 
 tremely ufeful about our rigging. ' Theteeih, ortuiks^ ": 
 of moll of them were, at this time, of a very fmali * 
 fize; ^VQW fome of the largeft and oldeft df thefe ani'*^ • 
 mals, had them not exceeding h^ a foot in length* *V 
 Hence we conduded, that they had iately fl>ed lieif'^ 
 old teeth. . ' :;•: .v-^'ri ,.v:r '-xrv r' ■ -\r::- ^'!-''- 
 
 They lie tipori the ice in Tierds of many hundreds, 
 huddlhig like fwine, one over the other ; and they roar - 
 very loud ; ft) that in the night, or when the weather'* 
 was foggy, they gave us notice of the yicinity of the ip 
 ice, belSre we could difcern it. We never found the 
 
 L ^ ' whole . 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 ■ 
 
 fr 
 
 1 
 
 ■ * 
 
 II- 
 
I 
 
 w 
 
 I 
 
 (i.P'l 
 
 
 
 
 ►hi) 
 
 * 1 ■; i 
 
 
 I'i' • ■ 
 
 tzo 
 
 Ji 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 iJ C.i 
 
 whole- herd flieeping, fome of them being conftanfly 
 opon the watch, 1 hefe, on the approach of the boat, 
 %tnjld alwake thofc that were next to them ; and the 
 alarm being thus gradually communicated, the whole 
 fierd would prefently be awake. However, they were 
 feldorh 4iY a hurry to get away, before they had been 
 once fired at. Ihen they would fall into the fea, one 
 oyer the other in the utmoft confufion ; and, if we did 
 not happen, at the firfl difcharge, to kiil thofe we iired 
 at, we generally loft them, though mortally wounded. 
 ' * They did not appear to us to be fo dangerous as fome 
 authors have reprelented them, not even when they are 
 ^attacked. They are, indeed, more fo in appearance 
 I than in reality. Vaft multitudes of them would fol- 
 'low, and come clofe up to the boats; but the flafli 
 of a muiket in the pan, or even the mere pointing of 
 one at them, would fend them down in a moment. 
 The female will defend her young one to the very laft, 
 ■ and at the cxpencc of her own life, whether upon the 
 ice or in the water. Not will the young one quit the 
 ' djm, though flie fliould have been killed ; fo that, if 
 
 t:. 
 
 ' you deftroy one, you are fure of the other. The dam, 
 
 ^ when in the water, holds her young one between her 
 fore-fins. It is an animal not unlike a feal, but in- 
 comparably larger. The length of one of them, which 
 Was none of the largeft, was nine feet four inches from 
 
 .^- ihe fnout to the tai4 ; the circumfereace of its body at 
 fhe fhoulder was feven feet ten inclies ; its c^ircumfe- 
 fence near the hinder fins was five feet fix Inches, and 
 the weight of the caroafe, without the head, fkin, or 
 entrails, was eight hundred and fifty-four pounds. The 
 head weighed forty*one pounds and a half, and the Ikin 
 two hundred and five pounds. ... i ;.:^ ^ . 
 
 •' Soon after We had gp( our fea-ljibrfes on' hoard, we 
 
 • werfej^ iri a- manner, '(uri;9\\nded with the ice ; iihd had 
 ■no tti<&n» o£^ clearing it> =; but . by fteei-ing to th^ fo\ith- 
 Watd, which We did tiU three o'cWktH^heXt! morn- 
 ii>g, 'With a light -wefl^rly* breeze, arid, in geheral, 
 
 "thiclc>^ fbggy; weather^>'-r:-/r' \^' \\^-^J'.^^.>. ^ iJ^Cl . 
 We were at prefent in the latitu3e 0^69® 32' ii6tth, 
 
 vl- n 
 
PACIFIC e C E A If . 
 
 aai 
 
 anJ iJT the longitude of 195® 48'' eaft; and, as tlientaln 
 ice was not far from us, it is evident, that it now co; 
 vered a part of the fea, which, a few days before, ha4 
 been free from it ; and that it extended farther tpwards 
 the fouth, than where we firft fell in with i^ ,^ .,• 
 
 We continued fleering to the weft,, till five in the 
 afternoon of the 26th, when we were, in ibme degreei 
 embayed by the ice, which was very clofe in the 
 north-weft and north-eaft quarters, with a great quan- 
 tity of loofe ice about the edge of the main body. • 
 
 On Thurfday the 27th, at four in the mornings 
 we tacked and ftood to the weftward, and at fcven 
 o'clock in tlie evening, we were dole in with the e<ig« 
 of the ice. There being hut little wind,. Captain 
 Cook went with the boats, to examine the ftate of 
 the ice. He found it conilfting of loofe pieces, of 
 varioys extent, and fo clofe together, that he could 
 fcarcely enter the outer edge Avith a boat ; 3nd it was 
 as impradlicable for the fhips to enter it, as if it had 
 been fo many rocks. He particularly ren>ark€d, that 
 it. was all pure tranCparent ice, except the upper fur- 
 face, which was rather porous. It feemed to he whoUy 
 compofed of frozen fnow, andto have been all formed 
 at fea. The pieces of ice that formi tlie outer edge, 
 of the main body, were from forty or fifty yi^rds in 
 extent, to four or five, and tlie Captain judged, that 
 the larger pieces reached thirty feet or mprcy under 
 Xhs furface of the water. At noon, ooir Utitude >yas 
 69^ lY north, our longitude 183° eaft, and ojur d<^ptli 
 of water was twenty-five fathoms. At two in the 
 afternoon, having; got on board as many fei»-horfes as 
 were deempd fufficient, and the Wind frefhening. at 
 fouth-fouth-eaft, we hoifted in the boats> aod fteere4 
 to the fouth- weft. - -" ' * ^ ^^^^^ '- ^- f*- . -,, , . 
 
 ; On the 29th, in the morning, we faw tl^ main Ice 
 towards the north, and foon after pBrceivcd:land<hear- 
 hig Couth- weft by, weft. In m fhorttini^: after this, 
 movfi land was feen bearing weft. It (hewed itf^If in 
 two hills, refembling iflands, but foon the whole ap- 
 pe4red.CQftjn^<aedt.. il; was totally deft^vitc, plywood, 
 -.....: L3 '^h'^q?^ :-;^>v"f:y,'' and. 
 
 f. 
 
 ■1 J 
 
 4II 
 
 m 
 
 ■4 i'l 
 
R' 
 
 11' 
 
 Hi 
 
 1 
 
 Mi 
 
 V0YA6E TO THE 
 
 f?i 
 
 alirffetFen i>f fnow ; but was, probably, covered with a 
 miofTy lubfbtice, that gave it a brownifh hue. In the 
 Jew ground that lay betv^cen the fea and the high land, 
 was a lake, extending to the fouth-eaftward farther than 
 we. could (ee. ' '. '^4.■,.^«.l ■ v- v,, .......>.. 
 
 M -Thfe feafon was now fo far advanced, and the time 
 when the froii generally fets in was fo near, that Cap- 
 Tain C^ok did not think it conMent with prudence, 
 to make any farther attempts to difcover a paiGTage mto 
 the Atlantic Ocean this year, in any diredkion, fo fmall 
 vras the probability of fuccefs. His attention was now 
 directed to the fearch of fome place, where we might 
 recruit oui^ wood and water; and the objedl that prin- 
 cipally occupied his thoughts was, how he fhould pafs 
 the winter, fo as to make fome improvements in navi- 
 gation and geography, and, at the fame time^ be in a 
 condition to return to the northward the enfuing fum- 
 mer, to profecute his fearch of a pafTage into the At* 
 lantic. ''.,-■-.* v^'-' .'.' ;<i^'if*'ir 
 
 ^Having flood ofF till our foundings were eighteen 
 fatlK)ms, we made fail to the eaftward, along the coafl, 
 which, we were now pretty well convinced, could only 
 be the continent of Afia^ The wind blowing frefh, 
 and tliere being, at the fame time, a thick mift, and a 
 very heavy fall of fnow, it was requifite that we ihould 
 j^roceed with particular caution : we therefore brought 
 to, foi a few hours, in the night. Early the next 
 morning, which was the 30th of Auguft, we fteered 
 inch a courfc as we judged moll likely to bring us in 
 with the land, being guided, in a great meafure, by 
 tl^ land ; for the weather was extremely thick and 
 gloomy, with incefTant fhowers of fnow. At ten 
 o'clock we obtained a fight of the coaft, which feemed 
 to form feveral rocky points, that were conne6led by 
 a low fhore, without any appearance of an harbour. 
 At a diftancefrom the fea many hills prefented them- 
 felves to purview, the higiielldf which were involved 
 in fnow: in other refped:s, the whole country had ii 
 naked' afp€i6t. *^"u^r-3tj r ■fri 11 ..ii.- .'.,•: »h-*-^ .Au.iiv!?' 
 
 -*' C^n^n Cook W5ks now convinced of what he had 
 
 ■iklk-z rf ii before- 
 
PACIFIC o c E A«^4 ^ fta3 
 
 before imagined^ that this was the couhlry of.the 
 Tfchuiiki, or the north-eafbern coaft of AfiSy and that 
 Beerifig bad procv eded thu» far in the year 1728. .h 
 
 - On the 7 th of September, at eight o^cIock in the 
 evening, we perceived alight onihore; and tWHo canoes 
 with people in them came o£E towards \ts. We b« ought 
 to, in order to give them time to approach ; but thoy 
 reftfted all our tokens of amity, and kept at the diftancfir 
 of a quatrter of a mile. We thef>^m le& tbem^ and 
 proceeded along the coafL The next morning, at one 
 o'clock, obierving that the water ihoalsd pretty fail, we 
 anchored in ten fathoms, and remained ia that fltuatioa 
 till day-light came on« 
 
 - On the 9th, at break of day, we faw land, which' 
 we Aippofed to be two iilands ; and not long afterward$» 
 we found ourfelves near a coafl covered with wood ; a 
 pleafmg fight, to which we had not been lately accuf*** 
 tomed. 
 
 At eight the next evening, we anchored near the 
 fouthern end of the moft northerly ifland, for fuch we 
 then imagined it to be. The next morning, however, 
 we found that it was a peninfula, conne<5^ed with the 
 contii^tent by a low iilhmas, on each fide of which, a 
 bay is formed by the ooafl. We plied into the fouthern- 
 moil of thefe bays, and cafl anchor again, about 
 twelve o'clock, in five fathoms water, over a muddy 
 bottom. 
 
 We obferved on the peninfula feveral of the natives ; 
 And one of them came off in a fmall canoe* Captain 
 Cook gave this man a knife and fome beads, with which 
 he appeared to be well pleafed ; we made figns ; to him 
 to bring us fome provifiorts, upon which he inflantly 
 quitted us, and paddled towards the fhore; Happening 
 to meet another mf.n coming off, who had two dried 
 falmon, he got them from bimj and when he returned 
 to ourihip^ he.refufed to give them to any body! except 
 Captain Cook.. Some. of our people fancied/ that he 
 afked for him under the name of Capkamey but in'this 
 they wer^ perhaps miflaken. Others of the, ilihi»bi- 
 twits came off rfooQa^erwards, and gave us a few drieil 
 
 n 
 
 
 41 
 
 
 Pi 
 
 
 111 
 
 i:J 
 
11 
 
 n 
 
 : I 
 
 r 
 
 
 isli. . 
 
 
 
 r .: 
 
 
 nil 
 
 
 P[|fe 
 
 S'i': 
 
 ,f.; »} 
 
 IT;; s- 
 
 
 224 
 
 A ' V O V A C E T T H E 
 
 ^'£ih, ill exchange fdr fuch trifles as we had to barter 
 /^.khftWe^u ' ;1fc hey ihewed no diilike for tobacco, but 
 /^lioy iHei>e?m9it4cfiix)usof kmvesi '♦*«:: ^t'^^^'^'^sv:;', 
 M( iirt* the {afternoon, Mr.Cj'ore was difpatched to the 
 ^njijfnfla^ lo -procnre wood and water ; of the former 
 Jiff- wbiici^firtick^^weobferved great plenty upon the 
 i^^oli.,, .Lieutenant Gore returned about eight o'clock 
 in the evening, with', the launch loaded with wood. 
 i^e informed the Commodore, that he had found but 
 iiittl^ frefli water, and that the wood could not be pro- 
 cured without diifficuhy, on account of "the boats 
 grounding at feme diilance from the beach. After hav-r 
 ing continued, for fome time, to (land oflFand on with 
 tliie ihips, we at length cart: anchor in lefs than five.fa- 
 Hhoms, at the diftanee of half a league from the coafl. / 
 4k. The fallowing day; which was Sunday the 13th, ^ 
 family of the natives came near the fpot wh^6 our peof 
 pie were occupied in taking off wood. The Captain 
 law only the hufband and wife, and their child, befides 
 a fourth perfon, who was the mofl deforiried ci'ipple h^ 
 hadev^r feen. The hufband was nearly blind, kpd nei- 
 ther he ror his wife were fuch well-looking people as 
 many-of thofe whom we had met with on this coaft;: 
 bQtk of them had their lower lips perforated ; and tliey 
 were ia poifeflion of fome glafs beads^ refenibling thol^ 
 we had feen before among their neighbours. Ifon^a^ 
 the article that plealed them mofl. For four knives,^ 
 v.'hitiVhad beon formed out of "an old iron floop^ th^' 
 jGViptain obtained from them n^:ir 'four htindred^ouiidfe' 
 weigl-it. of jjiiH that had been latel y c?ught • by^ :thtm;' 
 Som6 of -tliere were trout, and othefs were, with re-' 
 jpefti to fr^e and taile, fomcwhat between a herring 
 and';; nialkt- , The Captain §ave a few beads to tiie] 
 chil^v \s]\o ;^w^ a female ; ,u]>on which the mothef im^' 
 inediateiy bi^Eft intio tears, tjien- the father, ridxt th%\ 
 cripple,' and at lalUiJa^addt^erfiniihing ^rb^e't&tl^li" 
 i;oj)j:^t, , tb^: jc^i^d i\^'{c\fn>. This mufic, ^;o^evta*,^Sv;ais 
 not Ipf Jpngj dpra^ipiv 1 . r tis^' 4v> i '^ •■^-^'^ • ^^ ^' - • • - ;: . . ' ' ' '^ 
 jiefoi-e nij^t, >n)n;tlifi i^tbf. We had am^y fuppifed 
 tlie^i j!5^i^ if IXwQOtiyOridi had. conveyed oiiboa^ abou^ 
 
 I .-; 
 
 I r^M '» 
 
 ..,, 
 
 <. 
 
: I 
 
 > V 
 
 *' ' ' 
 
 ) barret 
 CO, but 
 
 '\''^ ■.»".. 
 to the 
 former 
 pon the 
 o'clock 
 wood, 
 md but 
 be pro- 
 e boats 
 ter hav'r 
 on with 
 five. fa- 
 Daft. ■/, 
 
 )ur peo- 
 Captain 
 , befides 
 ipple h6 
 ^pdnel- 
 sqple is 
 
 id tliej 
 
 f g tholV 
 on ^a^ 
 
 [knives,^ 
 >pv the;' 
 
 them.; 
 ithre-' 
 lerrln^ 
 to the^ 
 iCt im-' 
 
 ppfed- 
 
 abou^ 
 
 dozed 
 
 J'- 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAH* 
 
 aa5 
 
 a dozen tons of water to each. On the r4th a party 
 was detached on fhore to cut brooms, and likewife 
 the branches of fpruce trees for brewing beer. About 
 twelve o'clock all our people were taken on board, (os 
 the wind frefhening had raifed fo heavy a furf on the 
 beach, that our boats could not continue to land withi-^ 
 out extreme difficulty and danger. 
 
 As doubts were ftill entertained, whether the coaft^ 
 upon which we now were, belonged to an ifland or to 
 the continent of America, Lieutenant King was dif* 
 patched by the Commodore, with two boats well 
 manned and armed, to make fuch a fearch as might 
 tend to remove all difference of opinion on the fubje&» 
 
 Lieutenant King returned from his expedition about 
 feven o'clock the next evening. The crews of the 
 boats rowed without intermifldon towards the land till 
 one the next morning, when Mr. Kingy upon his land- 
 ing, afcended the heights, from which he could fee the 
 two coafls join, and that the inlet terminated in a f^:iall 
 creek or river, before which there were banks of fand 
 or mudy and in every part ihoal water. The land for 
 iome diilance towards ^e north was low andfwan^y; 
 then it rofe iu hills; and the perre6l jundtion of thofe, 
 on each fule of the inlet, was traced without the leafl 
 difficulty* 
 
 (Vom t^e elevated fitnation, in which Mr. King took 
 his furvey of die Sound, he could difcern many fpa- 
 cious. vailles, with rivers flowing through them, weir 
 wooded^ and bounded by hills of a moderate height* 
 Oi^e ,of the rivers towards the north- weft feemed to be 
 Y^ty coiiiiderable ; and he was inclined to fuppofefroim 
 its aire£kion, that it difcharged itielf into the iei at the 
 head of the ba)^. Some of his people penetrating be- 
 
 toi?s iSound, in honour of Sir t letcher Norton, now^ 
 Lord Qrantle^ a near relation of Mr. King., 
 
 Ca|^t:nn Cook being now perfe^ly convinced^, that: 
 Mr* St^dUin's map was extremely errone^nsj^ andbav- 
 
 L 5 uiQi 
 
 -» i 
 
 
 h- 
 
fir? Iji:- ■ 1 
 
 
 
 AVdYACK TO rns , 
 
 ing Ifeftorcd the continent of America tb the fpace 
 whkh that gentleman had occupied with hia imaginary 
 iflarid of Alafchka, thought it now high time to quit 
 thefe northerly regions, and retire to Ibme place for 
 the winter, where he might obtain proviitons and re- 
 fifeftiments. Me did not confider Petropaulowfka, or 
 the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul in Kamtfchatka, 
 A» likely to furnifh a fufikrient fupply. He had like- 
 wife other reafons for not going thither at prefent ; the 
 priificipal of which was, his great unwillingnefs to re- 
 main ina<5ti\ne for fix or feven months, which would 
 have been the confequencc of pafling the winter in any 
 of thefe northern countries. He at length concluded, 
 that no fituation was fo convenient for our purpofe as 
 the Sandwich Iflands ; to them, therefore, he formed a re- 
 folution of repairing : but a fupply of water being necef- 
 fary before he could execute that defign, he determti»ed, 
 Wich a view of procuring this eflentiai article, to fearch 
 the coaft of America for a harbour, by proceeding along 
 it to the fouthward. If he ihouldiwt meet with fuci* 
 cefs'in that fearch, his intention was to reach Samga- 
 noddha^ which was appointed for our place of retidezr 
 VOus, in cafe the {hips ftiould happen to fepa. .te. s ?/ 
 -'^*Iii the morning of the i7tht)f September we weigh-* 
 cd anchor, with a light eafterly brpeze; and on the iSth 
 we refumed our progrefs along the coaft. On Wcd- 
 nfipfday the a 3d, at day break, land made its appearance 
 ar the dlftance of fi k or feven leagues. From this point 
 «f view it refembled a clufterof ifiands; but it w^j 
 Ibimd Xtir be only one of thirty mHcs m extent* Ca^r 
 f aitt Cook afterwards found that it was entirely Un* 
 k?rioWli to the Ruffians, and thereforcj confidering it 
 as ia difeovery of our own, he named itGore*^ IflaBd*. 
 Il-a(jjj)cafedto be barren tind deftituteiof iilha^rtantV 
 at teaft we faw none; nor did Weobferv^fuchu nuft^rf 
 ^rof birds^abo^t it as we had feen'whdnlveiirft difr^ 
 coveted *it< but'we difeoveredfome li^ ottert, an atii-' 
 mal whichove liad^not found to then^rti^ of .this Ta? 
 
 vJit 
 
 Wc ke|>t an ^^riy coutfe tilJ eig^t in themomirt^ 
 A i • i , ' of 
 
PAeiFIC QC£AN. 
 
 227 
 
 of the 25th, when the Refolutron fprung a leak \3nder 
 the (Varboard buttock> which was fo confiderabl^ as to 
 keep one pump conftantly employed. We would not 
 vehtufe to put the fhip upon the other tack, but con- 
 tinued to fteer towards the weft till fix in the evening 
 of Saturday the 26th, when we wore and ftood to the 
 caftward, and then the leak gave us n^o farther trouble. 
 This proved that it was above the water line, which 
 gave us great fatisfad^ion. t .1-. 'ju^iivv 
 
 Af length, on Friday the 2d of O^lofcef, jft aay- 
 break, we faw the ille of Oonalaflika, in a f6Utl>-eAft 
 diredion. We Hauled into a bay, ten miles to.the 
 weflwafd of Samganoodha, known by the atppfcflation 
 of Egoochfhac ; but finding very deep wat^r, tee fped- 
 dify left ft. The natives vifited us at difictfent times> 
 bfinging^ with thenr dried falmon, and Other fifiij which - 
 our failors received in exchange for tobacco.*. Only a 
 few days before, every ounce 6f tobacco that retfiained : 
 in the Chip had been diftribiited ambng th^m, and the 
 quantify was not half fufficieftt to anfwer their deto^ansfs* 
 Ndtwithftainding' this, fo thbughtkfs and impTovid^nt 
 a being is an Engti/h faiiof, .that they were as, jjroftilfe 
 in making their bargains,: as: if We had arrived at a port : 
 m Virginia; by whidh means, iri lefs than two day^; . 
 the value of this coipmodiiy was: towered ahovje athon- 
 f^td percent. 
 
 The next day, at one oVlckJk' irt th^ aft^rifftjen, lv^ • 
 anchored in the hatboior^if Saitigjitioddha, and, Ion* th^ ; 
 morning of the 4t% tftecaprpentet^ W6re empfeiyeit in. 
 ripping dff the /heatKmg of and tiT«fef the wal^ of the 
 Refolufiort on the llafhoard fide. . Many xtf the- featns 
 t*et« &xmd eatifcly opfen ; it was thefefore^^ot to be 
 wontferedav (Kat*w ttuch wati^ had got ifit^ the Aip. 
 Wecfejirea tfe^fiihand fpitit rooms, and tli^kftets^holdi ; 
 anddlfpbtfed thingr iri ftrdi a martneri- that^-in^e^ d 
 any fbttirefejik? of th^ fme natui^e^ tfetAVdffiri might: 
 f^irdit^ Wily t6 tfca jmhip&v, BfefideJ Ithist woi^k^ and: 
 coraplethig oiMJ ftwkbflraref, i^ecteired i^fcl^eT'^^ , 
 3Kid^ took in a maantlty 6f halisifV: , 
 
 ThcregcndSe* ^eJte(ivr!ietwith*wheAwrvf fere here 
 '"' L 6^ before 
 
 ■ :-m 
 
 V. 
 
 ' ^^t 
 
 
 % 
 
 .■^' 
 
 im 
 
It 
 
 1 ' !l 
 
 
 |lMr'<» 'ilf 
 
 m 
 
 lite ; I 
 
 •>JiiL8 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 . before were now, for the mofl part, in a flate of decay, 
 • There being great plenty of berries, one-third of the 
 people, by turns, had permiflion to go a(hore and 
 gather them. Confiderable quantities of them were 
 uhp brought to us by the inhabitants. If there were 
 any feeds of the fcurvy among the people of either 
 ihip, thefe berries, and the ufe of fpruce beer, which 
 they were allowed to drink every other day, efFedlually 
 eradicated them. 
 
 , We likewife procured abundance of £fh; at firft, 
 cWefly falmon, both frelh and dried, which the natives 
 hroiight us. Some of the frefh falmon was in the 
 higheft perfection ; but there was one fort, which, 
 froni tlie figure of its head, we called hook-nofed, that 
 was but indifferent. Drawing the feine feveral times, 
 "at the head of the bay, we caught many falmon trout, 
 and a halibut that weighed two hundred and fifty-four 
 jpdjaiids. We afterwards had recourfe to hooks and 
 lines. * * A boat v/as fent out every morning, which 
 feldbm returned without eight or ten halibut, a quan- 
 tity ix\ore than fufficient to ferve all our people. Thefe 
 fifh w^re ejTcellent, and there were few who did not 
 jprefer^hem to falmon. Thus we not only obtained 
 a Ippply of fi/h for prefent confumption, but had fome 
 " to caity with.us tofea. , .^,^ ;:^, y. 'r.w' /^ 
 
 .,;Captair^' Cook received, on the 8th, by the hands of 
 '''^ nat&e of Qonalaflika, named Derramoufhk, a very 
 ' !fihgu!ar prefent, confldering the place we were in.. It 
 • fes^i rye loaf, or rather a pye in the form of a loaf, as 
 it' iridbfei fome falmon weH feafoned with pepper. 
 Tills, man' had brought a fimilar prefent for Captain 
 Oeirke,, and a note for each of the Captains, written 
 in a c^zirbfl^r which none of u^ ^nderflood.; It was 
 ■' 'fetlirdl tdimacrine,' that thefe two prefents ?werefrom 
 --^^^**--' ' •" , r ,.■ ^.therefore 
 
 thefe un- 
 jihd porter, 
 
 K^fch' tjie y fu pppfed would be highly acceptable. Cap- 
 tah'i Cook alfo ferit, in company with Derramoufhk, 
 Corporal Lediard cl the marlines, an intelligent man, 
 -*,. ■■'-'' V .t' • ' ^ ■•'■ for 
 
.PvACXFXC OCEA^^ 
 
 A^9 
 
 for the purpofe of gaining farther information; with, 
 orders^ that if he met with any RufPans, he ihould 
 endeavour to make them underfland, that we were 
 Engliflimen, the friends and allies of their nation. 
 
 On Saturday the loth, Corporal Lediard returned 
 with three Ruffian feamen, or furriers, who, with fe- 
 veral others, refided at Egoochfhac, where they had 
 fome ftore-houfes, a dwdling-houfe, and a floop of 
 about thirty tons burden. One of thefe Ruffians w^s 
 either Mafter or Mate of this velTel. They were all 
 three intelligent, well-behaved men, and extremely 
 ready to give us all the information we could defire. 
 ^ut, for want of an interpreter, we found it very dif- 
 ficult to underftand each other. They appeared |o 
 have a perfect knowledge of the attempts which their 
 countrymen had made to navigate the FrozenOfeean, 
 and of the difcoveries that had been made from Kamt- 
 fchatka, by Beering, Tfcherikofl"^ and Spangenberg. 
 But they had not the leaft idea to what part of ^e 
 world Mr. Staehlin's map referred, when it was laid 
 before them. Captain Cook pointed out Kamfchatka, 
 and fome other places, upon this map, they aiked Kim 
 whether he had feen the illands there rep refented ; and, 
 on his anfwering in the negative, one of them put his 
 finger upon a part of the map, where a number of iflapds 
 are laid down, and faid, that he had cruifed there in 
 fearch of land, but could never meet with any. The 
 Captain then fiie wed them, his own chart, and found 
 that they were flr^ngers to every part of the coaiO^ of 
 America, except that vvhich lies oppofite this i^and. . 
 
 The three Ruffians having remained all night withthe^ 
 Commodore, vifited Captain Clerke the fpUowJng 
 morning, and thep departed, perfed^ly fatisfied with^the . 
 reception th^yhadmet with. They promifed to reWn 
 in a few . days,, and : brhig with them a chart pt the. 
 inlands fituate bet ,een Kamtfchatka andOpnsJjiffllla. 
 
 In the evening of the 14th, while Captam Cook ?md 
 Mr. Webber were at; a village, ixo,t far fipRi Sjaipga^. 
 noodha,^ a Ruffian landed there, who proye^^^ .tOjte the 
 priaqipalperfon^mong his countrymen in this and. the 
 
 ' * * adja- 
 
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 I 
 
 
 m'! 
 
 m 
 
 f :[■:.■ 
 
 
 i ' wt 
 
 : m 
 
 S^^H 
 
 
 u' i 
 
 m 
 
nio 
 
 Voyage to the 
 
 % 
 
 w^ 
 
 adjacent iflcs. His name was Erafim Gregorioff Sin 
 HmylofF^ He arrived in a canoe that carried three per- 
 fons, attended by twenty orthirtyfmaller canoes, each 
 condudled by one man. Immcaiately after landing, 
 they conftrud>ed a fmall tent for IfmylofF, of materials 
 which they had brouglit with them, and they after- 
 wards made others tor themfelves, of their canoes and 
 paddles, which they covered with grafs. IfmyloiF hav- 
 ing invited the Captain and Mr. Webber into his tent, 
 fet before them fome dried falmon and berries. He 
 appeared to be a man of fenfe ; and the Captain felt no 
 (mall mortification in not being able to converfe with 
 him, except by figns, with the afliftance of figures 
 arid other chara6^ers. The Captain requeiled him to 
 favour him with his company on board the next day, 
 and accordmgly he came with all his attendants. He 
 had, indeed, moved into the neighbourhood of our fla- 
 ti6n> for the exprefs purpofe of waiting upon us.'^'* ' ' 
 
 Captain Cook was in. hopes of receiving from him 
 thechart which his three countrymen had promifed, ■ 
 hut he was difappointed. However, Ifmyloff aflured 
 hitff he fhould have it, and he kept his word. The 
 C:kptain found him very wett acquainted with the geo- 
 graphy of thoffe parts, and with all tht? difcoverres 
 which bad be6n made in this quarter by the Ruffians. 
 
 Not 6nly Ifmyloff, but aifo the others affirmed,,, that 
 tittrf were totally unacquainted with the American 
 continent to the northward ; and that neither Lieu^e- ■ 
 riahrSytad, nor any other Ruffian, had feen it of hte 
 yeatit TheV called it by the fame name which Mr» 
 SbeHiih has affixed to his hirge ifhmd, that rs Afafchka.- - 
 
 In the afternoon, Ifmyloff, after having dined with i 
 Captaih Cifeirke, left u5 with alt his retinue, hut pro- 
 rtin^ft\6 'li^turn in a few days. Accoi^dingiy, on the 
 rimiy he'yaid us another viht, hringing #ith hrrb the - 
 cjiWk'alibvfe mentioned, which be permitted 'C^taJt^ 
 C6tlk^t6 topf^Qtxd **ie contents of which are theiJitm-i ' 
 dati^^of ^thdfeflowing remarks. ^ : ^^^^^^Y^'^:' 
 
 '!f l^iffe d^iS Wei(e two in number, thdy wertf bothr 
 iHjmi^rijpr,' arid Dbre' every mark of authenticity.- 
 
PACIFIC O C E A K. 
 
 asv 
 
 One of them comprehended the Penfhinfkian (ea ; the 
 coaft of Tartary, as low as the latitude of 41° north;i 
 the Kurile Iflands, and the peninfula of Kamtfchatka. 
 We were informed by Mr. IfmylofF, that a great part 
 of the fea-coafl of Kamtfchatka had been corrected by 
 himfelf; and he defcri))cd the inftrument ufedbyhim 
 for that purpofe, which muft have been a theodolite* 
 He alfo told us, that there were only two harbours pro- 
 per for {hipping, on all the eaftern coaft of Kamt- 
 fchatka, viz. the hay of Awai^fka, and the river Olu- 
 tora, in the bottom of the gulpa of the fame name; 
 that there was not one harbour on its weflern coaft ; ana 
 that Yamflc was the only one, except Okotik, on all 
 the weftern fide of the Penfliinikian fea, till we como 
 to the river Amur. The Kurile Iflands contain but one 
 harbour, and that is on the north-eaft fide of Mareekan 5 
 where the Ruffians have a fettlement. 
 
 The other chart comprehended all the difcoyeries that 
 the Ruffians had made to the eaftward of Ksimtfchatka^ 
 towards America. That part of the American coaft,. 
 with which TlcherikofF fell in, is laid down ia this 
 chart between the latitude of 58** and 58 i^ north, 
 and 75^ of eaftern longitude, from Okotik, or 2i8i*^ 
 from Greenwich ; and the place where Beering an- 
 chored in 59 i° of latitude, and 63^^ of lon|;itUde: ' 
 from Okotfk, or 207° from Greenwich. To fey iw- 
 thingof the longitude, which may, from feveral caui^s^^i, 
 be erroneous, the latitude of the coaft, discovered by . , 
 Beering and Tfcherikoff, particularly that part of it.- 
 which was difcovered by the latter, differs confider;]ir 
 bly from Mr. MuUer's chart. Whether the chart miyfi') 
 produced by Ifmyloff, or that of Muller, be raoft err^- 
 neou&in this refpe^, it may be difficult to^termini^, ^ i 
 
 IfmylofF continued with us till the evening of /th^i- 
 21ft, when be took his final leave. Captain Cpok^. 
 inltrufted to his care a letter to the Lords of the Ad^^-. 
 miralty, inclofmg a chart of all the northern coaife- 
 vve had vifited. I fmy loff ftid there would be an oppor-' 1 
 tunity of tranfmitting it to Kaintfchatka, orOMotife, 
 i^i the cowrfc of the fuccceding' fpring^ and that it- 
 - /. would 
 
 
 I I I' 
 
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 11 
 
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 ■i 
 
 6-1 
 
 
 S:it'v 
 
feiiSV 
 
 fid I 
 
 
 S'S' 
 
 
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 r,. f 
 
 232 AVOYAGE TO TKE 
 
 would be at Peterfburg the following winter, tte gave, 
 the Captain a letter to Major Behm, Governor of 
 kamtfchatka, who rendes at Bulcheretfk in that penin- . 
 fula; and another to the commanding ofEcer at Petro- 
 p^ulowika. 
 
 , Mr. IfmylofF feemed to poflefs abilities that might 
 entitle him to a higher flation than that in wliich we 
 found him. He had confiderable knowledge in agro- 
 nomy, and in the moft ufeful branches of the raathe- 
 matics* Captain Cook made him a prefent of an Had- 
 ley's o6lant; and, though, perhaps, it was the fiiiVhe 
 had ever ken, he very quickly made himfelf acquainted 
 with moft of theufes to which that inflrument can be 
 applied. 
 
 On Thurfday the 22d, in the morning, we made an 
 attempt to get out to fea, v/ith the wind at fputh-eafl:, 
 but did not fucceed. In the afternoon of the 23d we 
 were vifked by one Jacob Ivanovitch Sopofnicoff, a 
 Ruffian, who commanded a fmall vellel at Oomanak.. 
 This man feemed very modeft, and would drink no 
 Arong^ ii(|uor, of which the other Ruffians, whom we 
 had mpt with here, were extremely fond. He appeared 
 to' know what fupplies could be obtained at the har- 
 boAiir of St. Peter and St. Paul, and the price of the va- 
 rious articles, more accurately than Mr. Ifmyloff. 
 Bu^ %y all accQuntS; every thing we fbould haye oc- 
 caipa to purchafe at that place was very fcarce, and 
 bore a high price. This ma^ informed us, that he 
 waft to be at Petropauloufka in the enfuing May ; and, 
 as * we' underftood, was to have the charge of Captain 
 Cook's letter* He feemed very defirous of having ipme 
 tokens from 'the Captain to carrv to Major Behm ; 
 andy t6 gratify him, t'le Captain lent a fmall fpying- 
 
 glafei ■ , . ... 
 
 lAfter'' We had contra6^ed am acquaintance with there 
 R^ans^ feveral of our gentlemen, at different timcjS, 
 viflted their fettlefment on the rfland, whpre tliey al- 
 ways' met wtth^ friendly treatment. It confided of a, 
 dweffing-houfe 'and two ftore-houfes. Befides, the, 
 RuiiSi^rts, there was a nvraiber of the Kamtfchadale*^ 
 ; ,. -^ . ' and 
 
 ik 
 

 lie gave , 
 ^rnor of 
 It peain- ; 
 t Petro- 
 
 ;i '"f . • •' ■ •• 
 
 it might 
 liich we 
 a aftro- 
 
 rnathe- 
 ail Had- 
 
 fii i\ he 
 juainted 
 u can be 
 
 nade an 
 ith-eafl, 
 23d M;q 
 icoffy a 
 manak.< 
 rink no 
 »om we 
 jpeared 
 he har- 
 the va- 
 TiyloiF. 
 lye oc- 
 :e, and 
 hat he 
 ; and, 
 *aptam 
 I Ipme 
 Jelim ; 
 
 eyair : 
 
 of a, 
 the. 
 idalet* 
 and 
 
 former. 
 
 aad of the Ooaalafhkans, ?as fcrvants to t!i 
 Somc.other natives of this iflandy who appeared to he, 
 independeat of the Ruflians, lived at the fame place./ 
 Such of them a*s belonged to the Ruflians, were all of • 
 the male fex; and they are either taken, or purohafed^ 
 from their parents when young. There were, at pre- 
 fent, about twenty of thefe who could be coiifid<5red in., 
 no other light than as children- They all refide in the ; 
 fame houfe, the Ruflians at 'the upper end, tlie Kamtfc 
 chadales in the middle, and the OonalaOikans at the 
 lowet^nd, where is fixed a capacious b ulerfor prepar- 
 ing their food, which principally con fills of fifli, with 
 the addition of wild roots and berrie.>. There is no 
 great tiiiFerence between the fnft an 1 iiil: table, except ^ 
 what is produced by cookery, by which the Ruflians 
 can make indifferent things palatable. They drefe. 
 whales flefh in fuch a manner as to make it very good . 
 eating; and they have a kind of pan-pudding of fal- 
 mon-roe, beaten up fine and fried, v/hich is a4;ol€r^lc 
 fubfliitute for bread. They may perhaps, occafionaUy,;* 
 taAe jeal bread, or have adiih, in whiclx flour is one of i. 
 the ingredients. If we except the juice of bercLes, . 
 which they generally fip at their meals, they drink rra . 
 ether liquor than pure water; and it feems to be* very ♦ 
 fortunate. for them that they have nothing ftronger. - . 
 
 As the.ifland furniihes them with fubfiftence, fo it - 
 does, in lome meafure, with clothing. This is chiefly . ^ 
 compofed of fliins. The upper garment, whic^ 4f.:f 
 made. like a waggoner's frock, reaches down to the^- 
 knees. Beifides this, they wear a waiftcoat or two,- a .- 
 pair of breeches, a fur cap, and a pair of boots, the . 
 legs of* which are formed of fome kind of- ftrong gut, ^ 
 but the foles and upper leathers are of Ruflian leather, ; 
 
 The native inhabitants of this ifland are, to all ap- . 
 pearapce,. a very peaceable, inofFeniive race of-peapi«j; 
 and, in point of honefl:y, they might ferve as a pattei?i •; 
 to the moil civilized nations. But, from what we f^if v 
 of their neighbours, with whom the Rufl^ns are ua^ r 
 connected, we have fome doubt whether this was their , 
 original difpofitioq ; and are rather inclined to be of 
 
 opiaion> 
 
 
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 a34 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 opuiion, that it is the confemience of their prefent 
 ftate of fubje^^ioa. Indeed, if we did not mifander- 
 ftand the Ruilians, they had been under the neceiTity 
 of making f<nne fevere examples before they covil4 
 bring tlie iflanders into tolerable order. 
 
 The people of Oonalafhka are in g€n«ral rather low 
 of ftature, but plumps and well ihaped. Their ncckij 
 arc commonly fbort, and they have fwarthy, chubby 
 faces. They have black eyes, and fmall beards. Their 
 hair is long, black, and Araight: the men wear it 
 loofe behind, and cut before; but the women generally 
 tie it up in a bunch* 
 
 The drefs of both fexes is the fam€ with refpedt to* 
 fa&ion, the cmly difterence is in the materials. The 
 frock worn by the women is made of the fkins of feals ; 
 and that of the men, of the Ikinsof birds ; both reach 
 beloW the knees. This conflitutes the whole drefs of 
 the females. But, over the frock, the men wear ano< 
 ther compofed of gut, which water cannot penetrate; 
 it has a hood to it^ which is drawn over the head. Some 
 ,of them wear boots ; and all of them wear a fort of 
 pval ihouted cap, made of wood, with a rim that ad- 
 mits tibe head. They dye thefe caps with green and 
 ^tbfr colours; and round the upper part of the rim 
 they fix the long bridles of fome fea animal, on which 
 glafs beads are fining ; and on the front is a fmall 
 ipiage or twx> formed of bone. They do not make ufe 
 0f paint; but the women puncture their faces (lightly, 
 Uld both fexes perforate the lower lip, irt which they 
 fixf»ieces of bone. But it is as uncommon here to fee 
 a man with this ornament, as to obferve a woman 
 witliout it. Some fix beads to the upper lip under the 
 ttoflrils; and they all fufpcnd ornaments in their ears. 
 - Fifh and other fea animals, birds, roots, berries, and 
 rven fea- weed, compofe their food. They dry quanti* 
 ties'of fifh during the fummer, which they by up in 
 ftnali huts for tlieir ufe in winter; and, pn>bably, they 
 prefer ve berries and roots for the fame feafon of fear- 
 city. They eat moft of their provifions raw. Boiling 
 
 imd' broiling w^re the only methods of cookery that-we 
 
 faw 
 
P A C IT 1 C O C £ A 1^. 455 
 
 faw i>fa&i{edam60g'«hfeitivand the fonner they, in ajl 
 probability, learnt flt>Ffi the Ruffians. Some have in 
 then* pofleffibnfnvallbt'ais kettles; and thoie who have 
 not, make ufe of a flat ftone, with fides of clay. ^ . u Hf- 
 Thoujjh the Ruffians liv^ among thefe people, they 
 found much lefs iron in'pofiefTion of the latter, than w« 
 had met with among other tribes on the neighbouring 
 continent 4^ America^ who had never feen the Ru^afis, 
 nor, perhaps^ had any intercourfe with them. Prob^l" 
 bly a few beads, and a fmall quantity 6f tobacco and 
 fnufl^ purchaie all they have to fpare. There are fe^ 
 of them that do not fmoke and chew tobacco, and take 
 
 They did hbt appear to be very defirous of tnoie 
 Iron, or to want any other inftruments, except fewing 
 needles, their own being formed of bone. With tbefc 
 they few their canoes, and make their clothes, and alfo 
 work very curious embroidery. All fewing is per- 
 formed by the females. They are tb^ ihoe-makers^ 
 taylors, and boat-builders, or boat-cov«retr>; for the 
 men, in all probability, conflruiSt the wooden frame,, 
 over which the (kins arc ibwed. They manufacture 
 mats, and br^ikets of gni(s> which are both fkrong and 
 beautiful. There i sy indeed, a neatnefs and perfe^ion 
 in mbfl of ii-heir work^ that Ihews they are neither defi^ 
 cient in ingenuity nor perfeverance. 
 
 We did not obfervea fire^phce in any one of :theJr 
 habitations. They ard ligbted,. as well as heiitcd, by 
 ktnps; which,' tlitHi]g;h (Imple^ effectually artfwcr the 
 purpofc fb t wWdi^Chey ite iciiteaded. They <j6nfift*^f a 
 flat ftbne, bdlfd^<id' on one 'fide Kke a plate; ift*the 
 hollow part they put the oi^ ^mioced with fomft>dry 
 grars, which fefves for la, wick. - '• • 
 
 We faw no offenfiv^ nor even deferrfiVd weapon 
 among the natives of Oon^ihka. It cah fcarcely bd 
 fiippol'ed that the Ruffians found them 'in ftich a de* 
 fencelefs ftatet it is rather to be imagined, that, fot 
 their own feeurity, they have difarmed them. Poli^ 
 tical motives, likewife, may have induced the Ruffians 
 aot to permit thefe illanderst* ha ye any large canoes; 
 
 for 
 
 -»■• 
 
 Itj 
 
 |i: j 
 
 V 
 
 !=■■! 
 
 |::i 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 iK'vi 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 liiffl 
 
!■ B 
 
 
 for wfe'ciirt hanMy believe they had npnefuch origlnaltvj 
 as we found them among all their neighbours. How- 
 evety we obferved none here excej^ ]t;yv<^.Qr, ibree that 
 belonged to the Ruifians.' : — r " 
 
 "^'^Their implements for hunting and fiihing are all 
 extremely well made of wcod and bone, and are not 
 very different from thofe ufed by the Greenlanders. 
 .The 'only diflerence is in the point of the mifiile dart ; 
 which, in fome that we faw at this ifland, does not ex- 
 ceed an inch in length; whereas thofe of the Cireen- 
 ianders, according to Crantz, are about eighteen inches 
 long. Indeed thefe darts, as well as fpme others of 
 their inflruments, are extremely curious. Their darts 
 are generally made of fir, and are about four feet in 
 length. 'One end is formed of bone, into which, by 
 ineahs'of a focket, another fmall piece q£ bone, which 
 ii barbed, is fixed, but.contrived in fuch a manner as to 
 be put in and taken out without trouble: this is fecured 
 ttj the middle of the fbiek by a ftrong, though thin 
 |>iecfi of twine, compofed of finews. The bird, fifli, 
 lO^iOther animal, is no iboner ftruck, than the pointed 
 bon^ ffipi QBt of the fockety but remains fixed in its 
 body:bynieans'ofa'barb.^ The dart then feryes as a 
 flcf^toT<ace the animal, and alfo contributes to fa- 
 tipi^ ie tsonfiderably,' fo that it is eafily t^en. They 
 thtpw thefe darts by the affiftanceo^ a thin piece of 
 ' wi^,' tM^lte^^dr ifbutteen inches longi ^^e middle of 
 .^ki^' iJH&Jgjhtly hollowed^ for the better receptipn of 
 -«h«^'wkpdn^^!ind'3rt the tcrminationvof the hollow, 
 V whkh^doies tit>v cxteatd to tftie cn^ is fixed a fliort 
 pomtcd piece of bone, to' j^revent <h«> 4artfroro ilip- 
 t)i*i^. Thi^ other cxtnanky is furnifhfe<i' )VitK * hole for 
 the- i-ecfeption of the foteifing^, and t^® fides are mgtde 
 
 I ^^'^^^p^^^t^fr'tliQ ©tlieMiligeffs and tH«^^» i»^ pr^<^^ 
 ^••t^' grrfp'with greater '^ruiifeft. -The n^ltiyes throw 
 
 '5W9fe»dafi*8''foithedfftknc©'df»«ghty in- "W'ty P^^^» 
 fvijh great* foree^and dextetity.; - TIkV ^X^ exceedingly 
 ^pert iitiftt^kihg-fiih, bbtli in> ti(teiea,.'W^ "^ »^«vers. 
 Thet alfo ufe hobkt ah^ lincis, tim aii<l .ym^'^r The 
 
 \^^A. /V^i/{'\iM^. o_ ••:; ; v. r.. . ,:_..5!».f?^^,..- lines 
 
5« How- 
 hrec that 
 
 >^ - 
 g are all 
 
 are not 
 nlanders. 
 file dart; 
 s not ex- 
 (jreen- 
 n inches 
 thers of 
 leir darts 
 * feet in 
 'hich, by 
 le, which 
 iner as to 
 s fecured 
 Jgh til in 
 ird, fifli, 
 e pointed 
 id in its 
 y^s as a 
 !S to fa- 
 i. They 
 piece of 
 fiddle of 
 ptipn of 
 hollow, 
 a fliort 
 >m flip- 
 hole for 
 ire made 
 ill prdcr 
 J throw 
 ' yards, 
 
 «4ingly 
 rivers. 
 
 #iT The 
 <:^r lines 
 
 '^ P A C IF I C OC£ A N« 
 
 lines are formed of twifted finews, and the hooks of 
 bone. ' 
 
 Whales, j)orpoifes, grampufes, lialtbut, fword-fifli, 
 falmon, trout, cod, foals, flat*fi{h, and feveral other 
 for^s, are foiiad here ; and there may b^ many im ore 
 that we had not an opportunity of feeing. Salmon 
 and halibut appear to be in thegreatcft plenty; and on 
 them the people of thefe illes principally fubfilt ; at 
 leafl, they were the only fort of fifli, except cod> that 
 we obferved to be laid up for their winter iWe. 
 
 Water fowls are neither found here in fuch numbers, 
 nor in fuch variety, as in the northern parts of the At- 
 lantic Ocean. However, there are fome in thefe parts, 
 that we do not recollect to have feen in other countries. 
 
 The few land-birds feen by us are the fame with thofe 
 of Europe; but there were probably many others which 
 we had no opportunity of obferving. A very beauti- 
 ful bird was fhot in the woods at Norton Sound; 
 which, we underftand, is fometimes found in England, 
 and known by the appellation of chatterer. Our peo- 
 ple faw other fmall birds there, but in no great abun- 
 dance or variety; fuch as the bullfinch, th« wood- 
 pecker, the yellow-fJnch, and tit-moufe. 
 
 It is remarkable, that there are no trees growing on 
 this part of the American continent, nor upon any of 
 the adjacent iiles; hut plants are to be found in great 
 variety at Oonalafhka. Several of them am foch as 
 we meet with in Europe, and alfo in NewA)!uwM^yi4> 
 and other parts of America; and others el th^iOi 
 which arelikewife found in Kamtfchatka^ ar<?eqiteii: !>y 
 the natives both there and here. 
 
 There were feveral plants which were fervieeable jto 
 us, but aw not ufcd either by the Ruffians or the na- 
 tives. Thefe were pea-tops, wild purilain, a fort of 
 fcurvy-grafs, ctefles, and af«w others. We i^pd »1I 
 thefe very jialataWej , whether: drcfied in foups pr^fl fal* 
 lads. The VaUie* arid lowgrounds aooui:^ witJti rjgr^/s, 
 whrch groS*s very thiok, and to ^greath JenigtlH ; > : ^ 
 
 The Oonalaihkans inter their dea4 on the topSi of 
 hills, and raife over the grave a little hiilpcX. One of 
 
 the 
 
 I I 
 
 '. i 
 
 1^' 
 
 
 i I 
 
.' p •■ 
 
 «' '5 ■)! ; 
 
 iH 
 
 ;t, ' 
 
 ■ 1? 
 
 t 
 
 538 A YOtACE yO THE 
 
 theiiatiws, wkoat^encled Captain Cook in a walk intrt 
 the country, pointed out feveral of thefe repofitories of 
 the dead. There was one of them, by the ffde of a 
 toad, that had a heap of £):oQes over it ; and all who 
 paiTed it adxied a i^one to the heap. In the country 
 were feen feveral ilone hillocks, that feertied to have 
 been aiti&:ially raifed. Some of them were, to appear- 
 ance, of great antiquity. 
 
 We are unacquainted with the notions of thefe 
 people refpedling the Deity, and a future ftate. M^e 
 are equally uninformed with regard to their diverfions, 
 having feen nothing that could give us any infight into 
 either. 
 
 From the obfervations, made daring our continu- 
 ance in the harbour of Samganoodha, its latitude i* 
 53° 5^ north, and its longitude 193*^ 2</ 45^^ eaih 
 
 On Monday the 26th of OiSloher, we failed from 
 Samganoodha harbour, when the wind being foutherhs 
 we ffood to the weltward. We intended to proceed to 
 the Sandwich Iflaiids, in order to pafs a few of the 
 winter^mpnchs there, if we fliould m^et with the ne- 
 ceflary retVeihnaents, and then advance in our progreis 
 to Kamtfchatka, fo as to arrive there about the mid- 
 dle «pf M^yin»th.eenfuing year, l^his being det^r- 
 hiined'xso), tlie » Commodore gave Captain Clerke in- 
 ftrUiStionsiforwproceeding in cafe of feparation; Sand- 
 wich iflands being appointed for the Ard place of ren- 
 ^«^JNi9; *^nd, £r the fecond^ Fetropaulo^vilva, iu 
 Kamtfdhatba, • t . • 
 
 'At h^df-^t^ lilx, in die morning of tlie aQth, we 
 difcovered land, which we. fuppofed to be tlie ifland 
 Anloglita* At eight, the wind living veered to the 
 weflwjtrd, we could not weather the iftand, and gave 
 over {)ly«ng; bearing away for OQnalaOika, in order to 
 go to the north of. it, ctot damig, in fo hard a gale of 
 wind, to att^npt a pirflage to the foilth*eaft of it. '; - 
 
 We got'%ht of Oonalafhka abowt three in the af- 
 ternoon> w^n we ihortened fail, and hauled the wind, 
 beijig ona^le to get through the pallage before night. 
 Oft the acthyotday bifiik, liaving. a hard gafe with 
 
 heavy 
 ' . 0. 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 239 
 
 "heavy fqualls, we bore away under courfes and clofc-* 
 reefed topfails. About noon we were in the middle 
 of the flrait, and got through it at three in tlie af- 
 ternoon. .,, :. ..;.;:, ,..>,*, 
 
 On the 2d of November, feveral guns w^e fired by 
 the Difcovery, which we immediately anfwered. We 
 loft fight of ]\&r at eight, and faw no more of her till 
 eight the next morning. She joined «s at ten, when 
 the height of the gale being over, we made fail, and 
 purfued our courfe to the fouthward. 
 
 In the ^.fr.ernoon of Saturday the 7 th, Capt. Gierke 
 came on "! with fome melancholy intelligence. He 
 informed ^ hat the fecond night after we departed 
 from Samg3n*jodha, the main tack of the Dilcovery 
 gave way, by which accident one man was killed, and 
 the boatfwam, with two or three others, wounded> 
 He added, that his fails and rigging received tronfider- 
 able damage on the ^d^ and that he £red the guns as 
 a figna! to bring to. • 
 
 We ftruggled witji heavy fqualls till the 25th, when 
 at day break, land was diicovered. We ftood for* it, 
 and" at eight o'clock we perceived that our difcovery 
 of the group of Sandwich Iflands had been very im- 
 perfed, thofe which we had vifited in our pro- 
 grefs northward, all lying to the leeward of 0Ur ^re- 
 fent ftation, * 
 
 An elevated hHl appeared in the cauntryv'whofc 
 &mmit rofe above the clouds* The land^ from this 
 hiir,' fell in a gradual flope, terminating in a'fteep 
 rocky coall; the fea breaking againft it in a* m^ft 
 dreadful furf. Unable to weather the ifland, we bore 
 up, and ranged to the weftward. We perceived peo- 
 ple on many parts of the fhore; and feveral hoiifes»and 
 plantations* The -country appe:ired to be wdl fupplicd 
 with wood and water, and fl reams were feen in various 
 places failing into the fea. ' 
 
 It being of the utmoft iirjportance to preteure a pro- 
 per fupply of provifions at thefe iflands, which could 
 not podibly be accompiiihed, if a free trade with tbe 
 natives were to be permitted, Captain Coofc p^bliflted 
 
 an 
 
 
^hr^ 
 
 i -t. :: 
 
 m%' 
 
 24b A. VOYAGE TO TrfE 
 
 all pribVf prohibiting all perfons on board the flilps 
 from, trading, except thofe appointed by himfelf and 
 Captain Gierke; and thefe were under the limitations 
 of triiduig only for provifions. . . - 
 
 About noon, the neareft fliore was three miles dif- 
 tant, in the latitude of 20° 59^^, and the longitude of 
 203^ $o\ Some canoes came off, and when they 
 got along fide, many of the condu6lors of them came 
 ijito the fhip without hefitation. Our vidters fupplied 
 us with a quantity of cuttle fiih, in exchange for nails 
 and iron. They brought but little fruit or roots, but 
 faid they had plenty of them on their illand, as well 
 as of hogs and fowls. We traded with them till about 
 four in the afternoon, at which time they had difpofed 
 of all their cargoes ; and, not expreffine any inclinatioii 
 to fetch more, we immediately made fail, •'^^•rt'i' • ' 
 
 On the 30th, in the afternoon, being otF the north- 
 eaft end of the ifland, fome more canoes came off. 
 In the evening, another ifland was feen to the wind- 
 ward, called Owhybce, That which we had been off 
 for fome days, was called Afoure.- ^ '**' »^^*"' <t m*»- 
 
 vAt eight in the morning, on the ift of December, 
 perceiving that we cQuld fetch Owhyhee, wc <!ood for 
 it, when our vifiters from Mowee thought proper to 
 embark in their canoes and went aihore. "**- 
 
 On the 2d of December, in the morning, to our 
 gre;St furprize, we faw tlie fummits*oF the mountains 
 covered with (how. Drawing near the (hore, fome of 
 the natives approached us. Who appeared a little fliy 
 at firft, but we prevailed on fome of them to come on 
 board; and, at length induced them to return to the 
 iHand) to bring a fupply of wliat we wanted. We had 
 plenty of company after thefe had reached the iliore» 
 who brought us a tolerable fupply of pigs, fruit, and 
 loots. We traded with them till about fix in the 
 evening, when we ftood ofF, in order to ply to wind- 
 ward round the ifland. We had now procured pork, 
 fruit, and roots, fufficient to fupply us for fout or 
 five days. W^e therefore made fail, and ftill pfyed to 
 windward. :.o':) aliS-'j \t •^j^;- :r , " :-^rvrn''">:'j* ■ 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK. 
 
 a4t 
 
 Captain Cook having procured a great quantity of 
 fugar canf , and having, upon a trial, dHipovered th;it 
 a decodtion of it made very palatable beer, he ordered 
 feme of it to be brewed for our ^ene^ ufe ; but, on 
 
 the broaching of the cafks, not one of the cr«w would 
 even tafle it. The Commodore having no other mo- 
 tive in preparing this beverage, than that of preferviiig 
 our fpirits for a colder climate, neither exerted his 
 authority, nor had recourfe to perfuafion, to induce 
 them to drink it ; knowing, that fo long as we could 
 be plentifully fupplied with other vegetables, theif 
 was no danger of the fcurvy. But, that lie might 
 not be disappointed, he ordered that no, grog ihould 
 be ferved in either of the iliips. The Commodore and; 
 his officers continued to drink this fugar-caiie beer^, 
 whenever materials could be procured for brewing it,. 
 Some hops, which we had on board, Improved it muui^ 
 and it was doubtlefs, extremely wholefome, though, 
 the Captain's inconfiderate crew could not be per-- 
 fuaded but it was injurious to their health. ; w ^^ . 
 Having kept at fome diilance from the coaft, ^tiJl 
 the 1 3th, we flood in again ; and after trading^ \vith 
 the native^ who came off to us, returned to f^a^ \V^ 
 alio intended to ,haVe appioached the fliore again oii 
 the 15th, to gfet a freih, fiipply of fruit and roots;, bjjt 
 the wind happening to be then at fouth-eaft, we enj- 
 braced the, opportunity of ftretching to the eailward,, 
 in or.dn to\ get . rotund to the fouth-eaft end of the^ 
 ifland. The wipd jcqnUnued at fouth-eaft the.gre'ajcjft, 
 partof tiie i^th; .on* the 17th it was variable;,aiid.ja,: 
 the iStti it \y as cpntipally. varying. ...,. '... ?,r,. j,!.-!* 
 .At noon,, on the 20th, the fouth-eaft point bofe-^ 
 fouth, at the diilance of three leagues, and we wer*^" 
 vifit.^d in the afternoon by fome of the natives, ivlig^' 
 came oft" in',tKeir "canoejs; bringing with theriii jMgs ap^,, 
 plantains V "f he , lajter were highly acceptable, 'w^ ' ^ 
 having b^crt 'Vittou^ 'vegetables for fo^ne days^ tut^ 
 this wiis ;fo incbnfiderabie a fupply (hardly luiEciont^ 
 for one day) that we' flood in tl^ next inoniing, , f U] ^j 
 within About four miles of the land, when a jnufe!>5f» 
 
 fie! ( 
 

 , fi42 i^*^ VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ,,of canoes came ofF, laden with provifions. The peo- 
 ple in them continued trading with us till four o'clock 
 in the afternoon ; at which time we had got a good 
 iupply; we therefore made fail, flretching off to the 
 northward. >,.:.. 
 
 .; We met with lefs referve and fufpicion in our inter- 
 courfe with the people of this ifland, than we had ever 
 experienced among any tribe of favages. They fre- 
 quently fent up into the fhip, the articles they meant 
 to barter, and afterwards came in themfelves, to traffic 
 on the quarter deck. The inhabitants of Otaheite, 
 whom we have fo often vifited, have not that confi- 
 dence in our integrity. Whence it may be inferred, 
 that thofe of Owhyhee are more faithful in their deal- 
 infrs than the Otaheitans. • 
 
 )!■)■* :t.' 
 
 «v'C;'I.. 
 
 it is but juftice to obferve, that they never at- 
 tempted to over-reach us in exchanges, nor to com- 
 mit a fingle theft. They perfe6lly underftand trading, 
 and clearly comprehended the /eafon of our plying 
 upon the coaft. For, thougli they brought off plenty 
 of pigs, and other provifions, they were particular in 
 keeping up their price; and, rather than difpofe of 
 them at an under value, would carry them to iliore 
 again. .. : .': * - - >.*» 
 
 After purchaflng what the natives had brought oiF, 
 We made fail, and at noon were in the latitude of iq'^ 
 55^, and in the longitude of 205° 3^. • ... ,^. ». . 
 
 Before day-break, on the ift of January, 1779, tlie 
 atmofphere was laden with heavy clouds, and the new 
 . year was ufliered in with a heavy rain. We had a 
 light breeze foutherly with fome calms. At ten the 
 jrain ceafed, the Iky became clear, and the wind freih- 
 ened. '■'*-'n^'-- . - • - 
 
 . Being now iibout four or five miles from the iliore, 
 fome canoes arrived >vith hogs, fruit, and roots. \^t: 
 traded with the people in the canoes, till three in the 
 afternoon, when being pretty well fupplied, we made 
 
 .^-: The 2d, 3d, 'and 4th, were pafied in running down 
 the fouth-eafl lide of the iiland, ftsnding piF and on 
 
 •^ . -. , :■■ . ■' during 
 
M 
 
 t » 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAK* 
 
 during the nights, and employing part of each day in 
 lying to, to give the natives an opportunity of trading 
 with us. They frequently came off to us, at the diP 
 tance of five leagues from the fhore, but never brought 
 much with them at thofe times> either from a fear of 
 lofing their articles in the fea, or from the uncertainty 
 of a market. We procured a quantity of fait, of a 
 moft excellent quality. 
 
 Having now got a quantity of fait, we purchafed 
 only fuch hogs as were large enough for falting, refaf- 
 ing all thofe that were under fize. But we could 
 feldom procure any that exceeded the weight of 
 fixty pounds. Happily for us, we had ftill fome ve- 
 getables remaining. Indeed, from the appearance of 
 this part of the country, it feemed incapable of afford- 
 ing them. Evident marks prefented themfelves of its 
 having been laid wafte by a volcano ; and that, though 
 we had not I'een any thing of the kind, the devaf- 
 tation it had made in the neighbourhood was but too 
 
 viflble. : » * , ;. \.. 
 
 We were again vilited by the natives next morn- 
 ing. Tliey came laden with the fame articles of com- 
 merce as before. Being not far from the fliore, Cap- 
 tain Cook fent Mr. Bligh in a boat, to found the coaft, 
 and alfo to go alhore in fcarch of frefli water. He re- 
 ported, on his return, that within two cables length 
 of the fliore, he found no foundings with a line of 
 one hundred and fixty fathoms; that, on the land, 
 he could difcover no ftream or fpring; that there was 
 fome rain water in holes upon the rocks, which tljp 
 Iprav of the fea had rendered brackifli; that the whole 
 lurface of the country was compofed of flags and aflies, 
 interfperled with a few plants. 
 
 On the 1 0th, in the morning, we had light airs 
 from the north- weft, and calms ; and at fo^r o'clock in 
 the morning of the nth, the wind being at weft, we 
 approached the land, in expectation of getting fome 
 refrefliments. The natives, feeing us fo near them, 
 began to come oftj and we continued trading with theni 
 the whole day, though we procured but a very fcanty 
 
 M ? fup- 
 
 '< ' ; • 
 
 i ' 
 
 I. 
 
 i : 
 
 
 
 Vi 
 
 ."; 
 
 ; »! 
 
 
 1 
 
r 
 
 
 Li 
 
 i 
 
 V 
 
 244 
 
 
 TOYAOE TO THE 
 
 11'" 
 
 ill ( 
 
 fupply, many of thofe who came ofF in their canoei 
 not having a Angle thing to barter. From this circum- 
 ilance, it appeared, that this part of the ifland was 
 extremely poor, and had already fumi/hed us with 
 every thing they could fpare. 
 ■ On the 15th, the weather was remarkably fine ; and 
 on the l6th, at day-break, feeing the appearance of a 
 bay, the Commodore fent Mr. Bligh with a boat from 
 €ach ihip, to furvey it, being now about three leagues 
 pfF. < . 
 
 Canoes arrived from all quarters ; infomuch that, by 
 ten o'clock in the morning, there were at leafl a thou- 
 fand about the two fhips, crowded with people, and 
 laden with hogs and other provifions. We were per- 
 fectly convinced of their having no hoflile intentions ; 
 not a fingle perfon having a weapon with him of any 
 fort. Trade and curiofity were their only inducements 
 to vifit us. Such numbers as we had frequently on 
 board, it might be expeAed that fome of them fhould 
 betray a thievifh (uifpofition. One of them took a 
 boat's rudder from the fhip, and was not detected till 
 it was too late to recover it. Captain Cook imagined 
 this to be a proper opportunity to fhew thefe iflanders 
 the ufe of fire-arms^ two or three mufquets, and as 
 many four pounders, were, by his orders, fired over 
 the canoe which went~away wit^i the rudder. But, as 
 the fhot was not intended to take eiFe<5t, the furround- 
 ing multitude were more furprized than frightened. 
 g, Mr. Bligh, when he returned in the evening, re- 
 ported, that he had found a bay with good anchorage, 
 and trelb water, in a defirable fituation. Into this 
 'bay, the Commodore determined to take his Jfhips, in 
 order to refit, and fupply ourfelves with refreftiments. 
 At the approach of night, the moft confiderable part of 
 our vifitors retired to the fhore; but many, at their 
 own earned requeft, were permitted to lleep on board. 
 Curiofity, at leaft with fome of them, was not the 
 only motive ; for feveral articles were miffing the next 
 ^morning ; in confequence of which, the Commodore 
 
 came 
 
 f 
 
 \ 
 
, P A C I F 1 C O C £ A ir. «45 
 
 came to a refolution not to admit fo many on any future 
 night. 
 
 On the 17 th, at e!feven in the forenoon, we anchored 
 in the bay, called by the natives Karakakooa, witliin 
 a quarter of a mile of the north-eaft fhore. After 
 we were moored, the (hips continued much crowded 
 with the natives, and furrounded by a vail multitude 
 of canoes. In the courfe of our voyages, we had no 
 where feen fuch vaft numbers of people afleinbled 
 at one place, Befides thofe who vifited us in canoes, 
 all the iliore was covered with fpe<ftators, and hun- 
 dreds were fwimming about the Ihips like flioals of 
 fifh. We were ftruck with the fingularity of this 
 ftene; and few of us lamented that we had not fuc- 
 ceeded in our late endeavours <-o jfind a northern paf- 
 fage homeward. To this difappointment we were 
 indebted for re-vifiting the Sandwich Iflandsy and for 
 enriching our voyage with a difcovery, in many re* 
 fye£iSi the moft important that hat been made by £vk 
 x^ofesm in the PxifiG Oceaik 
 
 
 '■:-•.■ - ■-■<,. .,■ 
 
 
 
 ^ *J « '•» -w ., 
 
 
 
 
 " -l.u v. 
 
 - ' '. . 
 
 * 
 
 ■'^v:'.:,'/ r^ 
 
 '.<■■* ':a/?r 
 
 BOOK 
 
 V. 
 
 .'./ 'h\- 
 
 ';^^:t fAi 
 
 sir , <^ ^ ^ -,»fc.» 
 
 JOURNAL OP THE TRANSACTIONS ON RETVRll? 
 INO TO THE SANDWICH ISANDS. ;ii ;) w 
 
 " ; ♦l:.-n' ^^ 
 
 \ . I.- ' • 
 
 r?: 
 
 
 •A HE bay of Karakakooa is fitua'ted la the diflrifl 
 of Akona, on the weft fide of the ifland of Owhyhee. 
 It extends about r mile in depth, and is bounded 4)y 
 two points of land, bearing fouth-ejift aad north-weft 
 from each other, at the diftance of half a league. The 
 north point is flat and barren, on which is fituated tKe 
 village of Kowrowa. A more confderAble village, 
 called Kakooa, ftands in the bottom of the bay, near 
 a grove of ftately cocoa trees. A high ror.ky cliiF, in- 
 acceflible from the fea ftiore, runs between them. Near 
 
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 240 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 the cokfl, on the Ibuth fide, the land has a rugged ap-, 
 pearance: beyond which the country gradually rifes, 
 .and abounds with cultivated inclofures, and groves of 
 cocoa trees. The habitations of the people are fcat- 
 tered about in great plenty. Round the bay the ilioie 
 is covered with a black coral rock, except at Kakooa, 
 where there is an excellent fandy beach, with a W(5/v?i 
 at one extremity, and a fpring of frefh water at the 
 other. We moored at the north fide of tliis bay, and 
 within a quarter of a mile from the ihore. 
 
 The inhabitants, perceiving our intention to anchor 
 in the bay, came off in s,fl:onilhing numbers, exprelfmg 
 their joy by fmging, fliouting, and the moft extrava- 
 gant gel^ures. The decks, fides, and riggings of our 
 iliips were covered with them. Women and boys, 
 who were unable to procure canoes, came fvvimming 
 round us in great multitudes, fome of whom, not. 
 finding room to get on board, ' amufed themfelves the , 
 whole day by playing in the water. 
 
 One of the chiefs, who vifited the Refolution, was. 
 named Pareea. Though a young man, we foon difco- 
 vered him to be a perfou of great authority. Some 
 prefents from the Commodore attached hirn to our in- 
 tereils, and we found him exceedingly ufeful to us. 
 Before we had been long at anchor, the Difcovery had 
 lb many people lianging on one fide, that fhe was ob- 
 ferved to heel confiderably; and our people found it 
 impoflible to prevent the crowds from preiTing into her. 
 Captain Cook, apprehenfive that flie might receive 
 fome injury, communicated his fears to Pareea, who 
 inftantly cleared the fhip of its incumbrances, and dif- 
 perfed the canoes that furrounded her. ^ 
 
 Mr. King went on fhore the next morning, with 
 a guard of eight marines, having received orders to 
 erecl the obfervatory in a proper fituation ; by which 
 me ns the waterers, and other working parties on 
 fhore, might be fuperintended and prote(Sled. Ob- 
 ferving a convenient fpot for this purpofe, almoft in 
 the center of the village, Pareea immediately ofiered 
 to exercife his power in our behalf, and propofed that 
 
 fome 
 
lagged ap., 
 Ily rifes, 
 groves of 
 are Icat- 
 the fliore 
 Kakooa, 
 h a mgrai 
 ter at the 
 bay, and 
 
 o anchor 
 xpreiTiiig 
 
 extrava- 
 js of our 
 id boys, 
 viinniing 
 iom, not. 
 elves the, 
 
 ion, was, 
 3n difco- 
 . Some 
 5 our in- 
 I to us. 
 ^ery had 
 "was ob- 
 ound it 
 nto her. 
 receive 
 ia, v^^ho 
 and dif- 
 
 ^, vi^ith 
 
 iers to 
 
 which 
 
 :ies on 
 
 loft in 
 
 ofiered 
 
 fd that 
 
 ibmc 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. . S47, 
 
 fome houfes /hould be taken down, that our obferva-. 
 tions might not be ob .trudled. This generous ofFer, 
 however, was declined, and we made choice of a pota- 
 toe field, which was granted us moft readily ; and to 
 prevent the intrufion of the natives, the place was con- 
 fecrated by the priefts, by placing their wands round 
 the wall which inclofed it. 
 
 This interdidlion the natives call tahooj a term fre- 
 quently repeated by thefe illanders, and fcemed to be 
 a word of extenfive operation. In this inftance it pro- 
 cured us more privacy than we could have wifl-icd. 
 No canoes attempted to land near us ; the natives only 
 fat on the wall, not daring to r/>me within the tabooed 
 fpace without obtaining our permifTion. The men, 
 indeed, at our requeft, would bring provifions into 
 the field ; but our utmoft endeavours were ineffe6lual 
 to induce the women to approach us. Prefents were 
 tried, but without fuccefs. 
 
 This circumftance aiForded great amufement to our 
 friends on board, whither multitudes of people (parti- 
 cularly women) continually flocked; infomuch tliat 
 they were frequently obliged to clear the vefTel, in or- 
 der to have room to perform their necelTary duties. 
 Two or three hundred women were fometimes obliged 
 to jump, at once, into the water; where they continued 
 to fwim and play till they could be re-admitted. ^^ 
 
 Nothing material happened on board till the 24th,' 
 The caulkers were employed on the fides of the fliips,' 
 and the rigging was repaired. The faking ot hogs was- 
 alfo a principal obje6l of the Commodore's attention j* 
 and we had improved in this operation fmce our far- 
 mer voyages. >^ 
 
 To cure the flefli of animals, in tropical cIimateS| 
 by faltuig, has long been thought impra6licable; pu- 
 trefadlion making fo rapid a progrefs, as not to allow 
 the fiilt to take efFe6l before the meat gets taint- 
 ed. Captain Cook appears to be the firft naviga- 
 tor who has attempted to make experiments relative 
 to this bufmefs. His firft attempts in 1774, in his 
 fecond voyage to the Pacific Ocean, fo far fucceeded, 
 
 M 4 »8 
 
 m 
 
 
 I 
 
 :| ; ^\^• 
 
t 
 
 si-*' 
 
 m 
 
 ..448 A VOYAOE T» THK 
 
 ras to convince hhn of vhe error of the genera! opi- 
 nion. As his prefent voyage was likely to be pro- 
 •tradled a year beyond the time that provifions had 
 been fupplied for the fhips, he was obliged to con- 
 trive fome method of procuring fubfiftence for the 
 crews, or relinquifh the profecution of his difcoveries. 
 He therefore renewed his attempts, and his moil fuu' 
 
 -guine expectations were anfwered. 
 
 We had not been long fettled at the obfervatory, 
 ^before we difcovered the habitations of a fociety of 
 priefts. Their huts were eredted round a pond, in- 
 4:lofod within a grove of cocoa trees, by which they 
 were feparated from the beach and the village, and 
 gave the fituation an air of religious retirement. Cap- 
 'tain Cook being made acquainted with thefe circum- 
 flances, be was determined to vifit them ; and, expe6l- 
 
 » ing the manner of his reception would be fingular, he 
 took Mr. Webber with him, to enable him to repre- 
 feflt the ceremony in a drawing. 
 - When he arrived at the beach, he was condufled to 
 ffcrre-m-Orono^ or the lionfe of Orono. On his ap« 
 proaching tliis facred place, he was feated at the foot 
 of a wooden idol. He was then arrayed in red cicthj 
 and Kaireekeea, aflifted by twelve priefts, prefented a 
 pig with the ufual folemnities. After this ceremony, 
 the pig was ftrangled, and thrown into the embers of 
 a fne prepared for that purpofe. When the hair was 
 finged off, a fecond offering was made, and the chant- 
 ing repeated as before ; after which, the dead pig was 
 held for feme lime under Captain Cook's nofe, and 
 tlien laid with a cocoa nut at his feet. "^^^'^ '^' 
 
 While wecontimied in the bay, whenever the Com- 
 HHHbre came on fhore, he was preceded by one of 
 theffe priefts, uho proclaimed the landing of the Orono^ 
 and ordered the inhabitants to proftrate themfolves. 
 He was conilantly attended by the fame perfon on 
 the water, where he was ftationed in the how 'of %\\& 
 boat, having a wand in his haml, to give notice of his 
 a|ii>ioach to the nativesj who were in canoes; oxv 
 
 y, - .which 
 
 
 hi\ 
 
 .(-"■• 
 
 hf 
 
F A C X F I e O C E A Nr 
 
 a49 
 
 which they inilantly ceafed paddling, and fell on? 
 their faces till he had pafled. ., .;-. ):.i 
 
 •1 But their civilities extended beyond parade and ce- 
 remony : our party, on fliore were daily fupplied by 
 them with hogs and vegetables, fufficient for our fubr 
 liftence, and to fpare ; and canoes laden with provi- 
 fions, were as regularly fent off to the ihips-. Nqthing 
 was demanded in return, nor was the mo^ diftaDtt 
 hint ever given that any compenfation was expefled,- 
 Their manner of conferring favours,, appeared mor«^ 
 like the difcharge of a religious duty, than to- refult 
 from mere liberality. On afking to whom we^wexe 
 indebted for all this munificence, we were informed, 
 that it was at the expence of Kaoo, the chief prieft^ and 
 grandfather to Kaireekeea, who was then iathe fuit o£ 
 the fovereign of the ifland. 
 
 We had, indeed, lefs reafoni to Be latisfied^ witlit; 
 the behaviour of the warrior chiefs than with that o£ 
 the priefts. In our intercourfe with the former^ they 
 were always fufficiently attentive to- their owttr inte- 
 refts ; and, befides their propenfity to ltealing> whichp 
 may admit of palliation from its univerfaliiy ia thoi^ 
 feas, they had other artifices equally difhonourable* 
 The following is one inflance, in which we difcovered, 
 with regret, that oui» friend Koah, who had been in-^ 
 troduced to us by Pareea, was a party principally 
 concerned. 5 
 
 The chiefs, who made us prefents of liogs, wcr* 
 always generoufly rewarded ; in confequence of which^i 
 we were fupplied with more than we could confuineiJ 
 On thefe occafions, Koah, who conftantly attendedf 
 us, ufunlly petitiioned for thofe that we did not sMo^ 
 lately wont, and they were given him of courfei.'t.i/lr* 
 pig was one day presented to us by a man whom iCdah 
 introduced as a chiefy which we knew to be the pig 
 that had, a ihort time before, been given to Koah., 
 Sufpeding we had been impofed upon, we founds on* 
 farther inquiry, that the pretended cliief was one ©f 
 the common people; and, from other concurrent eir- 
 cumflaaces, we were perfectly convinced that, iii> 
 . M 5 ajan^ 
 
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(J50 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 
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 many inflances, we had been the dupes of fimilar im- 
 pofition. 
 
 On Sunday the 24th, we were not a little fur- 
 prifed to find, that no canoes were permitted to put 
 off, and that the natives confined themfelves to their 
 houfes. At length, however, we were informed, that 
 the bay was tabooedy and that all intercourfe with us 
 was interdidled, on account of the arrival of Terree- 
 oboo, their king. Not apprehending an accident of 
 this kind, the ihips were deprived of their ufual fup- 
 ply of vegetables. 
 
 On Monday the 25th, in the morning, we endea- 
 voured by threats and promifes, to induce the inhabi- 
 tants to approach us. At length, fome of them were 
 venturing to put off, and a chief was obferved to be 
 very a6tive in driving them away. In order to make 
 him defift, a mufquet was inftantly fired over his head, 
 which operated as it was intended, and refrelhments 
 were to be liad as ufual. In the afternoon, the iliips 
 were privately vifited by Terreeoboo, attended only by 
 -one canoe, which had his wife and family on board. 
 After ftaying till almoll: ten o'clock, he returned to 
 the village of Kowrowa. 
 
 About noon the next day, the king, in a large ca- 
 noe, with fome attendants in two others, paddled from 
 the village, in great ftate, towards the fhips. Their 
 appearance was noble and magnificent. Terreeoboo, 
 and his chiefs, were in the firft canoe, arrayed in fea- ' 
 thered cloaks and helmels, and armed with fpears and 
 daggers. In the fecond came Kaoo, the chief priell, 
 together with his brethren, having their idols difplayed 
 ^n reii cloth. Thefe idols were figures of an enormous 
 fize, iTiade of wicker-work, and curioully ornamented 
 with fmall feathers of a variety of colours. Their 
 eyes were large pearl oyllers, with a black nut placed 
 in the center; a double row of the fangs of dogs was 
 fixed in each of their mouths, which, as well as the 
 reft of their features, appeared ilrangely diltorted. 
 The third canoe was laden with hogs and vegetables. 
 As tUey advanced, tlje priells, in the fecond canoe^ 
 
 chanted 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN* 
 
 milar im- 
 
 ittle fur- 
 ^d to put 
 to their 
 ned, that 
 ; with us 
 f Terree- 
 cident of 
 fual lup- 
 
 ve endea- 
 le inhabi- 
 lem were 
 ved to be 
 to make 
 his head, 
 efhments 
 the iliips 
 i only by 
 >n board, 
 turned to 
 
 large ca- 
 lled from 
 . Their 
 rreeoboo, 
 d in fea-' 
 ears and 
 if prieft, 
 [Jifplayed 
 normous 
 anicnted 
 Their 
 It placed 
 ogs was 
 I as the 
 il tor ted. 
 jetabJes. 
 I caooo^ 
 chanted 
 
 25« 
 
 chanted their hymns with great folemnity. After pad- 
 dling round the veflels, they did not come on board, as 
 we expedted, but made immediately towards the ihore, 
 at the beach where we were ftationed. - 1 <■* - v'^ " ^ ' 
 * When Mr. King beheld them approaching, he order^ 
 ed our little guard to receive the king; and Captain 
 Cook, feeing that he intended to go on fhore, went 
 thither alfo, and landed almoft at the fame inftant. 
 We ufliered them into the tent, and the king had hardly 
 been feated, when he rofe up, and gracefully threvy 
 over the Captain's ihoulders, the rich feathered cloak 
 that he himfelf wore, placed a helmet on his head, and 
 prefented him with a caricus fan. Five or fix other 
 cloaks, of great beauty atid value, were fpread at the 
 Commodore's feet. .- ... -.- , • .cnrj-f- • 
 
 -' Four hogs were then brought forward, by the king's 
 attendants, together w^ith bread-fruit,; cocoa-nuts, and 
 fugar-canes. Then followed the ceremony of Terreeo^' 
 boo's changing names with Captain Cook ; the ftrongeft 
 pledge of friendfliip among all the iflanders of the Pa- 
 cific Ocean; A folemn proceffion now advanced, con- 
 ftfting of priefts, preceded by a venerable old perfonage^ 
 followed by a train of people leading large hogs ; others 
 being laden with potatoes, plantains, bcc, We«coul<,l 
 inftantly perceive, by the ceuntenance and geflures o£ 
 Kaireekeea, that the old man who headed the procefFiori ? 
 was the chief prieft, on whofe bounty we were told we • 
 had fo long fubfifted. He wrapped a piece of red cloth, 
 round the fhoulders of ^Captain Cook, and, in/the ufual : 
 form, prefented him a pig. He was then feated next 
 ti.e king, and Kaireekeea, and his attendants begai> 
 their vocal ceremonies, Kaoo and the chiefs afliAiiig ia 
 the refponfes. 
 
 The formalities of the meeting being ended. Captain - 
 Cook conducted Teereeoboo, and.feveial of his chiefs, 
 on board the Refohition. They v/ere received with 
 every poffible attention and reipe£k; and the Commo- 
 dore, as a compenfation for the feathered cloak, put 
 a linen fhirt upon the fovereign, and gilt his ovvi> 
 
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 - MSA ■ ■ 
 
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 . JfJiS A VOYAG£ TO THE 
 
 hanger round him. KaoOy and about hah a dozen 
 ^ther chiefs remained on fliore. ' , . » , 
 
 All this time, not a canoe was permitted to appear 
 in the bay, and thofe natives who did not confine 
 themlelves to their huts, lay proftrate on the ground. 
 Before the king quitted the Refolution, he granted 
 leave for the natives to trade with the* /liips, as ufual ; 
 but the women (we know not on what account) were 
 ilill interdi6ted by the taboo ; that is, to remain at home, 
 and not have any kind of intercourfe with us. 
 
 The behaviour of the inhabitants was fo civil and 
 inoffenfive, that all apprehenfions of danger were to- 
 tally vaniihed* We trufted ourfelves amongft them at 
 all timeS} and upon all occaiions, without the leaA he- 
 iitation. The officers ventured frequently up the coun- 
 try, either iingly, or in fmall parties, and fometimes 
 continued out tw whole night. To relate all the in- 
 fiances of genetofity and civihty, which we experienced 
 upon thefe occafions, would require volumes. In all 
 j»late% the people flocked about us, anxious to afford 
 ey?i^l||. afliftance in their power, and appeared highly gra- 
 tifiedTif we condefcended to accept of their fervices. 
 Variety of innocent arts were pradlifed to attradl our 
 notice, or to delay our departure. 
 
 Bot though their gentlenefs and hofpitality were 
 pleafing to us> they were addi£led to ileal ing, like all 
 the other iflander^of thofe feas. This was a diflrefling 
 circumftance, and. ipmetimes obliged us to exercife fe~ 
 verity, whicn we flipuld have been happy to have 
 avoiJed, if it had not been eilentially oeceflary. Some 
 expert fwimmers were one day dete^ed under the Ihips, 
 drawing out the filling nails from the flieathing, which 
 they ingenioufly performed with a flint flone faftened to 
 tlie end of a fhort flick. This practice was fo injurious 
 tp our veflels, that we fired fnuill /hot at the offenders ; 
 but that they eafily evaded, by diving under the fhip's 
 bottom. It therefore became highly neceflary to make 
 an example <:i one of them, by flogging him on board 
 the Difcovery. 
 
 A large party of gentleaaen, from both iliips, fet 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN, 
 
 ^53 
 
 out, about this time, on an excurfionrinto the country, 
 in order to examine its natural produ6lions. 
 
 William Watman, a Teaman of the gunner's cre\V| 
 died on the 28th. This event is the more particularly 
 mentioned, as death had hitherto been uncommon 
 amongft us. He was a man in years, and much ref- 
 pe6led for his attachment to Captain Cook, He bad 
 lerved twenty-one years as a marine, and then entered 
 as a Teaman in 1772, on board the Refolution, and 
 ferved with the Commodore in his voyage towards the 
 fouth pole. On their return, he got admittance into 
 Greenwich Hofpital, through the intereft of Captain 
 Cook, at the fame time with himfelf ; and, anxious to 
 follow the fortunes of his benefadlor, he alfo quitted It 
 with him, on his appointment to the command of the 
 prefent expedition. He had been often fnbjeft to lUght 
 fevers, in the courfe of the voyage, and Was infirm whei^ 
 we arrived in the bay; where, having^ been fent for a 
 few days on fhore, he thought himfelf perfedily' ta- 
 ilored, andrequefted to return onboard. His requeit 
 was complied with; but the day following he had ^j^ 
 flroke of the palfy, which, in two days afterwards, 
 put a period to his life. 
 
 At the requeft of Terreeoboo, the remains of thi$ 
 honeft feaman were buried on the morai; the ceremony 
 being performed with great folemnity* Kaoo and hi^ 
 brethren were prefent at the funeral, who behaved witK/ 
 great decorum, ai^d paid due attention while the fe^yide' 
 was performing. ^On our beginning to fill up the grave, ' 
 they approached it with great awe, and threw in aiJeai' 
 pig, together with fome cocoa-rtuts and plantains. For ' 
 three fucceffive nights they furrounded it, facrificing^ 
 hogs, and reciting hymns and prayers till morning. 
 
 We ereded a poft at the head of the grsive, and'; 
 nailed thereon a piece of board ; on which was infcribed 
 the name and age of tne deceafed, and the day Of his . 
 departure from this life. Thefe they affiired us they "^ 
 would not remove, and they will probably be permitte4 
 to remain, fo long as fuch frail materials can endure. * 
 
 Our fliips were much in want of fuel, therefore 
 
 ^ Cap- 
 
 lil 
 
 * ■■ 
 
 u 
 
 ft i 
 
 m 
 
 
254 
 
 A VOYAGE TO T H If 
 
 !:i| 
 
 Captain Cook defired Mr, King to treat with the prlefts^ 
 for the purchafe of the rail on the morai, Mr. King 
 had his doubts about the decency of this overture, and 
 apprehended that the bare mention of it might be 
 deemed impious ; but in this he was exceedingly mif- 
 taken. They exprefTed no kind of furprize at the ap- 
 plication, and the wood was delivered without the leaft 
 Hipulation. 
 
 The king, and his chiefs, had, for fome time, been 
 very importunate to know the time of our departure. 
 Mr. King's curiofity was excited^ from this circumftance, 
 to know the opinion thefe people had entertained of us, 
 and what they fuppofed to be the objedbs of our voyage. 
 He took confiderable pains to fatisfy himfelf on thefe 
 points ; but the only information he could get was, that 
 they fuppofed we had left our native country on account 
 of the fcantinefs of provifions, and that we had vifited 
 them for the fole purpofe of filling our bellies. This 
 conclufion was natural enough, confidering the meagre 
 appearance of fome of our crew, the voracity with 
 which we devoured their frefh provifions, and our an- 
 xiety to purrhafe as much of it as we were able. One 
 circumflance may be added to thefe^ which puzzled 
 them exceedingly, that of our having no women with 
 us. 
 
 We had now continued fixteen days in the bay, dur- 
 ing which * iie our confumption of hogs and vegetables 
 had been . enormous, that we need not he furpriled 
 at their wilhing to fee us take our leave. But Terreeo- 
 boo had, perhaps, no other view, in his enquiries, than 
 a defire of having fufficient notice, to prepare fuitable 
 prefents for us at our departure ; for, when we informed 
 him of our intention to quit the ifland in two days, a 
 kind of proclamation was immediately made,requiringthe 
 natives to bring in their hogs and vegetables, for Ter^ 
 reeoboo to prefent to the Orono, - -^ 
 
 The carpenters which had been fent up thecountry, 
 to cut planks for the head rail-work of theRefoIution, 
 had now been gone three days ; and, not having heard 
 
 . imrsi. 
 
FACIFIC OCEAIfr 2$$ 
 
 from them, we began to be alarmed for their fafety* 
 We exprefled our apprehenfions to old Kaoo, who apr 
 peared equally concerned with ourfelves ; but while we 
 were planning meafures with him, for fending proper 
 perfons after them, they all fafely arrived, f hey went 
 farther into the country than they expedled, before they 
 found any trees fuitable for their purpofe. This cir^ 
 cumftance, together with the badnefs of the roads, and 
 the difficulty of conveying the timber to the fhipsy 
 had fo long detained them. Th y beftowed high com- 
 mendations on their guiaes, who not only fupplied them 
 with provifions, but faithfully protected their tools* . 
 
 The 4th of February being fixed for our departure, 
 Terreeoboo invited Captain Cook and Mr. King to 
 attend him, on the 3d, to Kaoo's refidence. On our 
 arrival there, we faw large quantities of cloth lie fcat- 
 tered on the ground ; abundance of red and yellow fea-« 
 thers, f aliened to the fibres of cocoa-nut hufks y and 
 plenty of hatchets and iron ware, which had been re- 
 ceived from us in barter. Not far from thefe was de-r 
 pofited an immenfe quantity of various kinds of vegc-j 
 tables ; and, at a little diftance, a large herd of hogs. 
 We fuppofed, at firft, that the whole was intended as a 
 prefent for us; but we were informed, by Kaireekeea, 
 that it was' a tribute to the king, from the inhabitants 
 of that diftridl. And, we were no fooner feated, than 
 the bundles were brought, and laid feverally at Terre- 
 oboo's feet ; and the cloth, feathers, and iron, were 
 difplayed before him. ^ " a-i* »- - : '^ •-.:•..: 1 
 
 The king was perfe6lly fatisfied with this maik of 
 duty from his people; and fele6led about a third of the 
 iron utenfiis, a third of the feathers, and fome pieces of 
 cloth ; he ordered thefe to be fet afide by themfelve? ; 
 and the remainder of the cloth, hogs, vegetables, &c. 
 were afterwards prefented to Captain Cook and Mr. 
 King. The value and magnitude of this prefent far 
 exceeded any thing that we had met with. The 
 whole was immediately conveyed on bonrd. The large 
 hogs were fete<5led; in order to be failed for fea ftore ; 
 
 .. . ,- / • r • . ^ . 
 
 ^■1 ^i 
 
 ifi 
 
 iil: 
 
 I I, 
 
 1 i'' 
 
 • I'm 
 
 ■ ii.. 
 
 u 
 
mV^': i 
 
 1: i; 
 
 256 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 but the fmaller pigs, aiid the vegetables, were divided 
 between the crews. 
 
 We left the moraiy and got our obfervatories on board. 
 The taboo was removed, and, witli it, its magical effects. 
 As foon as we had quitted the place, the people ruflied 
 m, and vigilantly fearched, hoping to iind fome valu- 
 able articles left behind. Mr. King being the laft 011 
 fhore, and waiting for the return of the boat, the in- 
 habitants crowded about him, and having prevailed 
 ©11 him to fit down among them, expreifcd their regret 
 at our leparation. It was even with difficulty that they 
 would fufFer him to depart. He was, indeed, highly 
 efteemed among them, as will appear from the follow- 
 ing relation. 
 
 Having had, while we were in the bay, the command 
 of the party on fliore, he became more acquainted with 
 the natives, and they with him, than thofe \\ ho were 
 required to be on board. He experienced great kind- 
 n«fs and civility from the inhabitants in general, but 
 tbe friendfliip fhewn by the priefls was conftant and 
 unbounded. 
 
 He was anxious to conciliate tlieir efteem ; in which 
 he fo happily fucceeded, that, when they were ac- 
 quainted with the time of our departure, he was urged 
 to remain behind, and received overtures of the mofl 
 flattering kind. When he endeavoured to excufe him- 
 felf, by alledging, that Captain Cook would not permit 
 it, they propofed to conduct him to the mountains,, 
 and there conceal him till the departure of the fhips. 
 On Mr. King*8 afluring them, that the Captain would 
 not fail without him, the king and Kaoo repaired to 
 Captain Cook, (whom they fuppofed to be his father) 
 formally requefting that he might be fufferedi to remain 
 behind. The Comipodore, unwilling to give a pofitive 
 refufal tO; a propofal fo generoufly intended, aflured 
 them, that he could not tiUen part with^ him; but he 
 fhould return thither the next year, when he would 
 endeavour to oblige them. ^ ., 
 
 On Thurfday the 4th of Fel^ruary, early in the 
 
 moaning, we unmoored, and the Refolution and Dif- 
 
 i ,; .t covcry 
 
PACIFIC OC£AK. 857 
 
 covery failed out of the bay ; ;^tended by a vaft num- 
 ber of canoes, it was CiAptain Cook's intention ta 
 iinifh the furvey of Owhyhee, before he went to the 
 other iflands, hoping to meet with a road more ihtl- 
 tered than Karakakooa Bay ; and, if he fliould not fuc- 
 ceed here, he meant to examine the fouth-eaft part of 
 Mowee, wliere he had been informed, there was a molt 
 excellant harbour. 
 
 On the 5th, and the following day, we had calm 
 weather, and confequently our progrefs was but flow* 
 
 The weather became gloomy in the afternoon of the 
 6th, and fuch violent gufts of wind blew ofF the land, 
 tiiat we were obliged to take in all the fails, and bring 
 to, under the mizen ftay-fail. 
 
 The weather became more moderate in the evening, 
 and we again made fail ; but it biew fo violently about 
 midnight, as to fplit the fore and main-top-fails. We 
 bent fi^ih fails m the morning of the J^th, and had a 
 Ifght breeze, and fair weather. A gale of wind coming 
 on at midnight, we were obliged to double reef the 
 top-fails. At day-break, on the 8th, we found that 
 the foremoil had again given way ; the £fhes being 
 iprung, and the parts fo very defe<^ive, as to make it 
 Ebfoinrely neceflary to nnflep the maft. Captain Cook^ 
 for fome time, hehtated, whether he ihould return to 
 Karakakooa, or take the chance of finding a harbour 
 in the iflands to leeward. The bay was not fo com^<*: 
 modious, but that a better might probably be met with^" 
 either for repairing the mafls, or procuring rcfrefh- 
 ments ; the latter of which, it was imagined, the neigh- 
 bourhood of Karakakooa had lately been pretty well' 
 drained of. It was, on the other hand, confidered as 
 an impruderrt flep, to leave a tolerable good harbour, 
 which, once laft, could not be regained, for th« mere ** 
 poffibility of needng with abetter; efpecially as the 
 failure of fuch a contingency might have deprived us of 
 anyrefource. /' 
 
 Variable winds, and a ftrong current to the north- 
 ward, retarded our progrefs in our return; and, in the 
 evening of the 9th, about eight o'clock, it Wew very. 
 
 hard 
 
 ill 
 
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 111 
 
 
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 IMAGE EVALUATION 
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 Sciences 
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 23 WIST MAIN STRUT 
 
 WnSTiR,N.Y. I4SS0 
 
 (716) •72-4503 
 
 
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 W 
 
 258 A VOYAGE to THIS 
 
 hard from the fouth-eaft, which occafioned ns to clofc 
 reef the top -fails. Early u\ the morniiig of the loth, 
 in a heavy fquall, we found oiirfelves clofe in with the 
 breakers, to the northward of the weft point of Owhy- 
 hee. We had juft room to avoid them, and fired feve- 
 ral guns to alarm the Difcovery, and apprize her of 
 the danger. -• *, 
 
 The weather, in the forenoon, was very moderate, 
 and a few canoes ventured to come off to us ; when 
 thofe on board informed us, that much mifchief had? 
 been occafioned by the late ftorms, and that a* great 
 iivauy canoes had been loft. We kept beating to wind- 
 ward the remainder of the day; and, in the evening, 
 were within a mile of the bay ; but we ftood ofF and on 
 till day-light the next morning, when we anchored in 
 our old ftation. ' ^'''' '^' ^' ' » r.i.'iui' \rt.i':- 
 
 The whole of the itth, and part of the x 2th of 
 February, we ^were engaged in getting out the fore- 
 m^ft, and conveying it on fhore. Not only thtf head 
 of the maft had fuftained damage^ but the heel was 
 beCOrne exceedingly rotten^ having a very large hole m> 
 thp middle of it. Several days being probably required 
 to inake the neceflEiry repairs, Mieffieurs fcing and 
 Baily got tfie obfervatory on fhore, and pitched their 
 tents on. the moraiy guarded by a corporal, and fix ma- 
 rines. A 'friendly intercourfe was renewed. with the 
 pncfts, who^ for our greater fecurity, tabooed- the place 
 with their wands as before. - The fail-inakers alfo re- 
 paired to the fhore to repair the damages, in their de- 
 p^^rtment, fuflained by the late heavy gales. They 
 oJccu'pie^ an habitation letit us by the priefts, adjoin- 
 irlg to the mor at, " -tV-M^ ■■ / 
 
 Our reception, oh coming to anchor, was fo differ- 
 ent from what it had been upon our firft arrival^ that we 
 were all aftonifhed : no fhouts,^ bttftle, or confufion, 
 but a fqlitary deferted bay, with hardly a canoe ftirring. 
 Tljeir ctriofity, indeed, might be fuppofed to be di- 
 miiiifhed by this time ; but thehofpitable treatment we 
 had continually been favoured with, and the friendly 
 footing on which we farted^ induced us to expe^ that» 
 ^ r on 
 
) clofc 
 
 1 0th, 
 
 th the 
 
 !)why- 
 
 lI feve- 
 
 her of 
 
 "a '. • ', 
 
 ierate, 
 
 when 
 
 ef had? 
 
 great 
 
 wtnd- 
 
 rening, 
 
 and on 
 
 :>red in 
 
 2th of 
 e fore- 
 i head 
 el was 
 hole in: 
 equired 
 ig and 
 !d their 
 (ix ma- 
 ith the 
 le place 
 alfo re^ 
 leir de- 
 They 
 adjoin- 
 
 differ- 
 that we 
 ifufion, 
 lirring. 
 > be di- 
 lent we 
 Friendly 
 6t thatt 
 oa 
 
 PACIFIC OCEANt 2^9 
 
 on our return, they would have received us with the 
 greateft demonftrations of joy. 
 
 Various were our conjefVures on the caufe of this 
 extraordinary appearance, when the whole myftery 
 was unravelled by the return of a boat, which we had 
 fent on fhore, bringing intelligence that Terreeoboo 
 was abfent, and that the bay was taboecd. This account : 
 appeared very fatisfadlory to many of us; but others* 
 were of opinion, that there was, at this time, fomething 
 very fufpicious in the behaviour of the natives ; and; 
 that the tabooy or interdi6tion, on pretence of Terree-: 
 oboo's ab fence, was artfully contrived, to give him time: 
 to confult with his chiefs in what manner we fhould be» 
 treated. We never could afcertain whether thefe fufpi- ' 
 cions were well founded, or whether the natives hadl^* 
 given a true account. It is probable, indeed, that our* 
 fudden return, for which they could aflign no apparent* 
 caufe, might create alarms in them ; yet the condu6t ofi 
 Terreeoboo, who, on his fuppofed arrival the nextt . 
 morning, immediately waited on Captain Cook; andt 
 the natives, from that moment, renewing their friendlyt^ 
 intercourfe with us, feem to evince that they neither: 
 meant, nor apprehended, a different kind of condu<St» ^1 
 
 An account of another accident, umilar to thts^f 
 may be mentioned in fupport of this opinion, whjch-i 
 happened to us on our firft vifit, the day. before the/ „ 
 king's arrival, A native having fold a hog on board . 
 the Refolutiori, and received the price agreed on. Pa- . - 
 reea, who faw the tranfa6lion, advifed the feller not to 
 part with his hog, \ 'ithout an advanced price. For 
 his interference in this bufmefs, he was harfhly fpoken 
 to, and pufhed away; and as the taboo was foon laid 
 on the bay, we, at fir ft, fuppofed it to be in confequence . 
 of the affront offered to the chief. 
 
 Thefe two circumftances confidered, it is extremely 
 difficult to drav/ any certain conclufion from the ac* 
 tions of a people, with whofe language and cuftoms , 
 we are fo imperfe6bly acquainted. Some idea, how- 
 ever, may be formed of the difficulties thofe have to 
 encounter, who, in their intercourfe with thefe ftran,-> 
 
 ^gersf .. 
 
 3!'i'« 
 
 ii 
 
 l.lii-i) 
 
 H 
 
 I ll 
 
 l^;*fi 
 
 \i 
 
x6o 
 
 A VOYACZ TO THE 
 
 P 
 
 ■it 
 
 i 
 
 gers, arc obliged to fteer their courfc in the midA pf 
 uncertainty, where the moft ferious confequences may 
 be occationed by only imaginary offences. Whether 
 theie conje<£tures are erroneous mr true, it is certain 
 tiuit things were condu(5led in their ufual quiet courfei 
 •ill the 13th of February, in the afternoon. 
 ■. At the approach of evening on that day, the com- 
 mander of the Dircovery's watering party, came to 
 inform Mr. King, that feveral chiefs were allembled 
 near the beach, and were driving away the natives, who 
 affifled the failors in rolling the cafks to the ihore: at 
 the fame time declaring, that their behaviour feemed 
 exceedingly fufpicious, and that he imagined they would 
 give him fome farther diflurbance. He fent a marine 
 with him, agreeably to his requeft, but permitted him 
 to take only his fide arms. The officer, in a fhort 
 time, returned, and informed Mr. King, that the in- 
 habitants had armed themfelves with ftones, and were 
 become tumultuous. He therefore went himfelf to the 
 IpoCy attended by a marine, with his mufquet. At 
 tlietr approach the iflanders threw away their flones, 
 mdf on Mr. King's application to fome of the chiefs^ 
 thf mob was difperfed. Every thing being now quiet, 
 Mr.^King went to meat Captain Coek, who was then 
 Cdmin^ on ihore in the pinnace. He related to him 
 what had recently happened, and receive i orders to fire 
 a^ball at theofl^ders, if they again behaved infolently, 
 «nd bdgan to throw ftones. In confequcnce of thefe 
 dire6^ion8, Mr. King gave orders to the corporal, that 
 the fentinels pieces ftiould be loaded with ball, inflead 
 oC (hot. i .7 ^ 
 
 vOn our return to the tents, we heard a continued 
 fkc of mufquets from the Difcovery ; which we per- 
 ceived to be direaed at a canoe, which was haflening 
 towards the (hotc, with one of our fmall boats Uv pur- 
 inkoi it. This firing, we conclnded, was. the cpnfe- 
 <Jii€iic«df fome theft, and Captain Cook ofdered Mr. 
 King to follow him with a marine armed, and to en- 
 dta^ur to feize the people as they landed. They ac- 
 Qordlngiy tiui to the piacc,. whore the canoe wasexpec- 
 .,nJ ted 
 
 mm 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK. 
 
 264 
 
 certain 
 
 uS. to come alhore, but did not arrive in time ; tl^ 
 people having quitted it, and fled into the country be- 
 fore their arrival. » . 1^ t ini 
 
 ' \ At this time they did not know that the goods had 
 teen already reftored ; and thinking it probable, from 
 what they had obferved, that they might be of impor- 
 tance, they did not choofe to relinquiih their endea- 
 vours to recover them; and, having inquired of the 
 natives what comfe the people had taken, they purfued 
 them till it was almoft dark, when they fuppoled them- 
 felves to he about three miles from the tents; and, 
 thinking the iflanders amuled them with f^lfe informa- 
 tion in their purfuit, they gave up the fearch and re- 
 turned. 
 
 A difference of a mortf ferious nature had happene^ 
 -during their abfence. The officer, who had been did^ 
 patched in the fmall boat after the thieves, arid who 
 was returning on board, with the booty that had been 
 reftored, feeing Captain Cook and Mr. King engaged 
 in the pUrfuit of the offenders, feized a canoe, whTc|i 
 was drawn up on the fhore. This canoe unfortunately 
 belonged to Pareea, who, at that inftant arriving from 
 on board the Difcovery, claimed his property, and pro* 
 tcfted his innocence. The o/Hc^r perfiiled in detaining 
 it, in which he was encouraged by the crew of ,:^ 
 pinnace, then waiting for Captain Cook ; in confequeijce 
 of whicli a icuffle enfued, and Pareea was knocked down 
 by a violent blow on the head, with an oar. Several of 
 the natives, who had hitherto been peaceable fpedVators, 
 began now to attack our people with fuch a ihower of 
 ftones, that they were forced to a precipitate retreat^ 
 and fwam ofF to a rock, at aconfiderablediftance from 
 the jfhore. The pinnace was plundered unmedi^tely by 
 the natives, and would have been entirely demoIiiheJ, 
 if Pareea had hot intcrpofed ; who had not only reco- 
 vered from his bloW) bot had alio forgot k at t}i6 fame 
 inftant. He ordered the crowd to difperfe, and bec- 
 koned to our people to come and take poifefllon of the 
 pinnace ; and afterwards affured them, that he wo^Id 
 ufe hisinfhteRC^ to get the Ihiiags reftored i^biich: had 
 
 been 
 
 
 : 
 
 ' !,'« 
 
 li 
 
 ^■M 
 
 ,• i 
 
 Jl \- 
 
26a 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 u 
 
 h 
 
 Iff 
 
 IN 
 
 'm 
 
 il 
 
 If 
 
 i 
 
 been taken out of it. After their departure, he fol- 
 lowed them in his canoe, carrying them a midfhipman's 
 cap, and fome other articles of the plunder ; and, cx- 
 prefling much concern at what had happened^ hegged to 
 know if the orono would kill him, and whether lie 
 might be permitted to come on board the next day } 
 He was aflured that he would be well received, and there- 
 fore joined nofes with the officers (their ufual token of 
 friendfhip) and paddled over to Kowrowa. 
 ' Captain Cook, when thefe particulars were rcpre- 
 fented to him, was exceedingly concerned ; and, when 
 he and Mr. King were returning on board, he expreffed 
 his fears that thefe iflanders would oblige him to purfue 
 violent meafures; adding, they muft not be permitted 
 to fuppofe, that they had gained an advantage over us. 
 It was then, however, too late to take any fteps that 
 evening; he therefore only gave orders, that every 
 illander (liould be immediately turned out of the iliip. 
 This order being executed, Mr. King returned or ihoie; 
 and the events of the day having much abated our for- 
 mer conhdence in the natives, €l double guard was pofted 
 on the moral y with orders to let Mr. King know, if any 
 •men were {tew lurking about th^e beach. At elevew 
 o'clock, five of the natives were feen creeping round 
 the bottom of xhRtnorai\ they approached with great 
 caution, and, at laft, perceiving they were difcovered, 
 immediately retired out of Ught. About midnight one 
 of them vsntured himlelf near the obfervatory, when a 
 centitnel fired over him ; on which they all fled, and we 
 < had no farther diflurbance during the remainder of the 
 ■night. -♦ ^^-^ 1. t ' '. . t .. * 
 
 «»» At day-light the next morning, Mr. King went on 
 board the Refolution, in order to get the timekeeper ; 
 and in his way thither was hailed by the Difcovery, 
 and received .information that their cutter had fome 
 time in the night been flolen from the buoy, where it 
 had been moored. ;v' 
 
 On Mr. King's arrival on boards he found the ma- 
 rines were arming themfelves, and Captain Cook bufied 
 in loading his double-bari*elled gun. \Vhilfl he Avas ac- 
 • "'» • ^ quainting 
 
J I '■ 
 
 : PACIFIC OCEAN* 263 
 
 qiialntinghim with what had happened in the night at j,; 
 
 the moraiy he eagerly interi*upted him, and informed 
 him of the lofs of the Difcovery's cutterjj^^and of the 
 preparations he was making to recover it.^lt was his 
 ufual pradlice in all the iflands of this ocean, when any 
 thing of confequence had been flolen from him, by fome 
 flratagem, to get the king, or fome of the principal 
 Er^rsy on board, where he detained them as hoAagestill 
 the property was rellored. This method having hither- 
 to proved fuccefsfnl, he meant to adopt it on the pre- 
 fent occafion; and gave orders to Hop every canoe that 
 fhould attempt to leave the bay ; refolving to .'eize and 
 deAroy them, if the cutter could not be recovered by 
 peaceable means. In purfuance of this, the boats of 
 both fliips, properly manned and armed, were flationed 
 acrofs the bay ; and before Mr. King quitted the ihip, 
 fome great guns were fired at two canoes, that were at- 
 tempting to efcape. 
 
 Between feven and eight o'clock Captain Cook and 
 Mr. King quitted tlie fliip together; the former in the 
 pinnance, with Mr. Phillips, and nine marines ; and the 
 latter in the fmall boat. The lafl orders Mr. King re- 
 ceived from Captain Cook were, to quiet the minds of fi| 
 the people, on our fide of the bay, by the flrongefl afTur- 
 ances that they fliould not he injured ; to keep his peo- 
 ple together, and to be continually on his guard. Cap- 
 tain Cook and Mr. King then feparated; the Cap- 
 tain going towards Kowrowa, where Tereeoboo re- 
 fided; and Mr. King proceeded to the beach : his 
 firfl bufinefs, when he arrived on fhore, was to iilue 
 flridl orders to the marines to continue within the tent, 
 to charge their rniifkets with ball, and not on any con- 
 fideration to quit their arms. He then attended old 
 Kaoo and the priefts at their refpedlive huts, and ex- 
 plained to them, as well as he was able, the reafon of 
 the hoflile preparations, which had fo exceedingly 
 alarmed them. He found tliey were no flraftgers to 
 the circumflance of thq cutter s being flolen, and af- 
 fured them, that thougli tire Commodore was hot only 
 refolved to recover it, but alfo to punifh, in the moft 
 exemplary manner, the;authors; 9f theith^ft; yejt that 
 »!"^' 2, ' \ they. 
 
 •if 
 
 ^i! 
 
 m 
 
 :. 'rill 
 
■'.tr-' 
 
 264 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 they^ and all the inhabitants of the village, on our fide » 
 had ^ot the lead occafion to be alarmed, or to appre<« 
 hend the leaft danger from ns. He importuned the 
 priefts to communicate this to the people^ and intreat 
 them not to entertain an idea of fear, but to continue 
 peaceable and quiet. Kaoo interrogated Mr. King, 
 with great emotion, if any harm wasto happen to 
 Terreeoboo? H^aliured him there was not; and both 
 he and his brethren appeared much fatisfied with this 
 allurance. ' ^^^^ -'* ' • ^; v 1 ,». .. i^t ^.,., 
 
 Captain Cook having in the mean time called off the 
 launch, from the north point of the bay, and taken it 
 with him, landed at Kowrowa, with the lieutenant and 
 nine marines. He proceeded immediately into the vil- 
 lagie; \vhere he was refpe<5lfu!ly received; the people, 
 as ufual, proftating themfelves before him, and making 
 their acduftomed offerings of fmail hogs. Perceiving 
 that his defign was not iufpedled, his next flep was, to 
 inquire for the king, and the two boys, his fons, who 
 had been almoft continually his guefls on board the Re* 
 folution. The boys prefently returned with the nai':ives, 
 who had been fearching for them, and immediately con- 
 du6^ed Captain Cook to the habitation where Terree- 
 oboo had flept. The old man had jiift awoke ; and after 
 fome converfation refpedting the lofs of the cutter, from 
 which the Commodore was convinced that he was not 
 in any wife privy to it, he invited him to accompany 
 him, and fpend the day on board the Refolution. The 
 king accepted the invitation, and arofe immediately to 
 accompany him. ♦ 
 
 Every thing had now a profperous appearance ; the 
 two boys were already in the pinnace, ^nd the reft of 
 the party approaching the water fide, when a woman, 
 named Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the boys, and 
 one of Terreeoboo's favourite wives, followed him, be- 
 feeching him, with tears and entreaties, not to venture 
 to go on board. Two chiefs, who came with her, 
 took hold of him, and infifting he fhould proceed no 
 flirther, obliged him to fit down* The iilanders, nour 
 collei^^ing in vaft numbers along the Ihore, who had 
 prob^ly been alarnied hj the dj&harging of the great 
 ^ * gunSy 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN* 26; . 
 
 guns, and the hoftile appearances in the bay, gathered , 
 together round Captain Cook and Terreeoboo. Thiis > 
 fituated) the lieutenant of marines, perceiving that his > 
 men were huddled together in the crowd, and confe- ,! 
 quently unable to ufe their arms, if there fliould appear ] 
 to be a necef&ty for it, propoled to Captain Coc3c, to 
 draw them up along the rocki, clofe to the edge of the ; 
 water. The popuhce making way for them to pafs^ « 
 the lieutenant drew them up in a line, within about 
 thirty yards of the place where Terreeoboo was fitting. 
 
 Tneold kinc continued all this time on the ground, 
 hearing the molt vilible marks of terror and dejediou in 1 
 his countenance. Captain Cook, unwilhng to abandon . 
 the chj«(5i which occafioned him to come on (hore, urged ^ 
 him moil earneflly to ]>roceed ; whilfl, on the othtf . 
 hand, if the king exprefied any inclination to follow 
 him, the chiefs, who furrounded him, interpofed; at ^ 
 iirft they had recourfe to prayers and entreaties, but af- ^ 
 terwards to force and violence, and even infifled on his , 
 remaining on fhoie. Captain Cook, at length, per- 1 
 ceiving that the alarm had fpread too generally, and that ^ 
 there was not a probability of getting him off without , 
 much bloodfhed, gave up the point; at the. fame timc^ 
 obferving to Mr. Phillips, that, to compel him to go on , 
 hoard, wo aid probably occafion the lol'sof many of the j 
 lives of the inhabitants. 
 
 Notwithflanding this enterprize had now failed, and 
 was abandoned by Captain Cook, yet it did not appear . 
 that his perfon was in the leaft degree of danger, till an ; 
 accident happened, which occafioned a fatal turn to thje [ 
 affair. The boats, Rationed acrofs the bay, having* 
 lired at fome canoes, for attempting to get out, unfor- < 
 tunately had killed one of their principal chiefs. Intelr , 
 ligence of his death arrived at the village where Cap- 
 tain Cook then was, juft as he had parted from tl^e ^ 
 king, and was proceeding with grea^ deliberation ,19— 
 wards the fhore. The ternient it , iminediately oj:ca- , 
 fion^d, was but too confpicuous ; the wonie^i and chjl-^ 
 dren .wete inftantly fent away, and the men, were foqn^^ 
 ci^d in their war-ma.ts, ana armed with fpears and 
 
 
 . ( ! fkl 
 
 'I ( !] 
 
 I 
 
 i. 
 
 ( 
 
 iljl 
 
266 
 
 VOYAGE TO STHE 
 
 
 [s ' 
 
 
 »v- ■ 
 
 Aones. One of the natives, having provided himfelf 
 with a flonei and a long iron fpike (called by the na« 
 fives a fahooa) advanced towards the Captain, flourifh- 
 ing Jiis weapon in defiance, and threatening to throw 
 the ftone. The Captain requefted him to defift ; hut 
 the Iflander repeating his menaces, he was highly pro- 
 Yoked, and fired a load of fmall fhot at him. The 
 inan was fliielded in his war-mat, which the Aiot could 
 liot penetrate; his firing, thei^fore, ferved only to irri- 
 tate and encourage them. Vollies of Hones were 
 thrown at the marines; and one of thtErees attempted 
 the life of Mr. Phillips with his pahooa ; but, not fuc- 
 ceeding in the attempt, he recetved from him a blow 
 with the butt end of his piece. Captain Cook imme- 
 diately difcharged his fecond barrel, loaded with ball, 
 and killed one of the mofl violent of the aflailants. A 
 general attack with flones fucceeded, which was fol- 
 lowed on our part, by a tiifcharge of mufquetry, not 
 only from the marines, but aHb £om the people in the 
 boats. The natives, to our great aftonifhment, received 
 our fire with great firmnefs ; and, v^ithout giving time 
 tor the marines to charge again, they rufhed in upon 
 them with dreadful fhouts and yells. What followed 
 was a fcene of horror and confufion, which can more 
 cafily be conceived than properly related. 
 
 Four of the marines retreated among the rocks, and 
 fell a facrifice to the fury of the enemy ; thret; others 
 were dangeroufly wounded ; and the lieutenant flabbed 
 between the fhoulders with a pahooa y but having fortu- 
 nately referved his fire, (hot the man from whom he 
 had received the wound, at the infiant he was preparing 
 to grepeat his blow. The laft time our unfortunate 
 Commodore was diftindlly feen, he was fianding at the 
 water's edge, and ordering the boats to ceafe firing, and 
 pull in. 
 
 It was imagined by fome of thofe who were prefent, 
 that the marines, and thofe who were in the boats, fired 
 without Captain Cook's orders, and that he was anxious 
 to prevent the farther cfFufion of blood; it is therefore 
 probable, that, on this occafion, his hmuanity proved 
 
 . fatal 
 
 in'-^ 
 
■♦• 
 
 
 i 
 
 ff PJI 
 
 pi 
 
 
 11 
 
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 fll 
 
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:4»tiJi-j*i' 
 
 PACIFIC aCEAH^ » 267 
 
 'fetal to him: ibr it was obfervedy that while he faced 
 the natives^ no violence had been ofiercd him; but, 
 when he turned about, to give dired^ions tb. the boatt^ 
 he was ftabbed in the back, and fell with his £ice into 
 the ^^ iter* A general fhout was fet up by the iflanders 
 on feeing him fall, and his body was dragged inhumanly 
 on fliore, where he was furrounded by the enemy, "who 
 fnatching the dagger from eacKother's hands, diiplayed 
 a fav^e eagerneis to join in his deflruftioa. 1 
 
 Such was the fate of our mofl excellent Commander! 
 After a life, diftinguifhed by fuch fuccefsful enterprizesy 
 his death can hardly be reckoned premature, fince he 
 lived to acconipliih the great work for which he feeroed 
 particularly defigned, being rather removed from the 
 enjoyment, than the acquifition of glory. How fin- 
 cerely his lofs wai lamented, by thofe who owed their 
 fecurity to his (kill a^id condudi, and every confolation, 
 to his tendernefs and humanity, it is impoffible to de« 
 fcribe; and the taik would be equally difficult to re^* 
 prefent the horror, dejedbion, and difmay, which fol- 
 lowed fo dreadful and unexpedled a cataftrophe. Let 
 us, therefore, turn from fo calamitous a fcene, to the 
 pleafing contemplation of his charad^ef and virtues, 
 and pay our lafl juil tribute to the memory of this 
 worthy man, in a fhort hiftory of his life and public 
 fervices. 
 
 Captain James Cook was born in the year 1727^ near 
 Whitby, in Yorkihire; and, at an early age^ com- 
 menced an apprenticefhip to a fhopkeeper in a neigh-* 
 bouring village. This not being fuitable to his natural 
 propenfity, he foon quitted the counter, and contniGteif 
 for nine years, with the mailer of a veflel in the cod 
 trade. In 1755, at the commencement of the war, he 
 entered into the king^s fervice on board the Eagle, then 
 commanded by Captain Hamer, and afterwards by Sir 
 Hugh Paliifer, who, perceiving his merit, advanced him 
 to the quarter deck. 
 
 In 1 758, we find him mafter of the Northumberlandy 
 
 Laird ColviDe's flag ihip, who then commanded the 
 
 foiiadcon Aationed on the coaft of America. Ker^ as 
 
 ^ , N * he 
 
 i 
 
 'A 
 
 m 
 
 if 
 
 
 < 
 
 13 
 
a68 
 
 AVOYACE TO THE 
 
 h a 
 
 ft i- i 
 
 be llias frequently declared, he firft read Euclid, an4 
 , clofeiy applied himfelf to the ftudy of the niathematics, 
 with the affiftance of only a few books, and his own 
 iiiduftry. While he thus found means to cultivate his 
 imderilandingy and fupply, in fome degiee, the deficit 
 ehcies of an early education, he was engaged in moiik 
 tof thea^ive ftenes of war in America. At the iiege 
 of Quebec, he was intrufted by Sir Charles Saunders 
 with tlie execution of important fetvices, in the naval 
 ^department. He was the pilot who condu6led the 
 boatf to the attack of Montmorency ; managed the 
 embarkation to the heights of Abraham; and pointed 
 out, by buoys, how the large fhips might proceed with 
 iecurity up the river. The manner in which he ac- 
 quitted himfelf in thefe important fervices, procured 
 him the efteem and friend(hip of Sir Charles Saunders 
 ^and^Lord Colville, who continued his zealous patrons 
 during the remainder of their lives. At the conclufion 
 of the war, he was appointed, through the intereil of 
 Lord Colville and Sir Hugh Pallifer, to make a furvey 
 of* the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and the coafts of New- 
 ifoundland. /{He was thus employed till tlie year 1767, 
 when Sir E<Jward Hawke appointed him to the com- 
 mand of an expedition to the South Seas, in order to 
 inake an obfervation of the tranfit of f^enusy and to pro- 
 fecut« xlifcoveries in that part of the globe. 
 
 Hi« Services, fince this period, are too generally 
 known to require enumeration, His reputation has 
 \ proportion^bly advanced beyond the eiFe6t of pane- 
 • gyric. Hefeems, indeed, to have been peculiarly qua- 
 { lified for this fi^ecies of enterprize. His natural indi- 
 gnation, the nature of his fervices, and indefatigable ap- 
 plication, all confpired to complete hi i for it; fo that 
 V he acquired ftjch a degree of pcofeflional knowledge, :is 
 ■ can fall to the lot of very few. 
 
 ' His frame and conftitution were robuft, and fuch as 
 ^•^ enabled him to undergo the fevereil hardfhips. When 
 '-/fieceirity required it, he could feed, with fatisfa^lon, 
 *'^'\ipon the coiirfeft and moll ungrateful foq^V an^hftf^h- 
 ^' H)itied to, evtrry kind of, lelf denial ; with. ,lhaWS^^ft 
 ♦^ -* k' > «- compofure 
 
-■* • ^» 
 
 luclid, an4 
 thematicsy 
 d his own 
 iltivate his 
 the deficit 
 ed in moj(ib 
 t the flege 
 Saunders 
 the naval 
 udled the 
 maged the 
 nd pointed 
 oceed with 
 ich he ac- 
 pro^ured 
 :s Saunders 
 us patrons 
 conclufion 
 interefl of 
 :e a furvey 
 :s of New- 
 year 1767, 
 ) the com- 
 :n order to 
 md to pro- 
 
 > generally 
 tation has 
 i of pane- 
 Jiarly qua- 
 :ural incli- 
 tigable ap- 
 it ; fo that 
 wiedge, iis 
 
 id fuch as 
 s. When 
 itisfad^^y 
 m^haf^h- 
 
 cofnpbfure 
 
 
 J 
 
 o r 
 
 .' c ■/ 
 
 ^o 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAK. ^^'f 
 
 .«. :^ 
 
 z6^ 
 
 compofure and indifference. Nor were the qualities of 
 his mind lefs vigorous than thofe of his body* Hi$; 
 underffanding was flrong and perfpicuous; his judge- 
 ment, efpecially in thofe matters in which he was more- 
 particularly engaged, quick and fure. t Hisdefignsandj 
 operations were the natural refult of a great original 
 genius* His valour was cool, deliberate, and deter- 
 mined, accompanied with a moft aftonifhing prefence 
 of mind on the approach of danger. His manners were 
 plain, eafy, and unafFedled. His temper, it mufl be ad'> 
 mitted, was too much fubjedk to haftinefs and palfion i 
 but this fliould be forgotten, when it is confidered, that 
 his difpofition was the moil benevolent and humane. 
 
 Thefe are a few traits or outlines of the character of 
 Captain Cook; but its diAinguifhing feature was the^ 
 moft unremitting perfeverance to accompliih his detign^ 
 in oppoiition to dangers, difficulties, and hardihips. 
 During all his long and tedious voyages, his eagernefs 
 and adlivity were never in the leaft abated. No alluF-* 
 ing incitement could detain him for a moment; 4^ven 
 thofe intervals of recreation, which unavoidably oc- 
 curred in the courfeof our fervices, and were joyfully 
 embraced by many of his officers, were fubmitted to by, 
 him with impatience, if they could not be made fub- 
 fervient to the more eiFedual profecution of his de«^ 
 figns. 
 
 At would be unneceflary to recapitulate the inftance? 
 in which thefe qualities were difplayed. The refult of 
 his. fervices, however, we fhall juft touch upon, under 
 two principal heads, viz. Geography and Navigation,, 
 placing each in a feparate anddiftin6^ point of view. 
 
 No fcience, it is prefumed, has ever received greater 
 additions ftom the labours of one'man, than geography 
 ha? done from thofe of Captain Cook. In his firlt 
 voyage, he difcovered the* Society Iflands ; aicer;tainedi 
 th^xJpfularity of New Zealand; and difcovered the 
 jli^atts, Whi<^ '{^parate the two iflands, and are called 
 .after '^i^ nihie. He explored'' the eaftern coaft of 
 NeirHolhildi till tlien unknown; an extent of twen- 
 
 t 'I 
 
 
 i i -i 
 
 J i 
 
 '•i! 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 < is '! 
 
 tWM 
 
 ! 
 
 i: 
 
 t 
 
 a - 
 
 ,■1 
 
 N3, 
 
 ty-fevea 
 
I M 
 
 ^ i 
 
 HM 
 
 I r 
 
 
 sl!jo a voyage to the 
 
 ty-icveW degrees of latitttdcy and upwards of two thou-' 
 fand miles.' u:t 
 
 He gave» in hisfecond expedition, a refolution to the 
 great problem of a fouthem continent, having fo com- 
 ^etely traverlH that hemifphere, as not to leave a poffi* 
 bility of its exiflence, unlefs it is fo near the pole, as to 
 be beyond the reach of navigation. New Caledonia, 
 d^ lai^efl. ifland in the Southern Pacific, except New 
 Zealand, was diicov^red in this voyage. Alfo the 
 ifland of Georgia, and an unknown coaft, which the 
 Captain named Sandwich land; and having twice 
 viilted the tropical Teas, he fettled the fituations of the 
 old, and made feVeral new dlfcoveries. 
 
 His third and laft voyage, however, is diflinguiihed 
 above the reft, by the extent and importance of its dif- 
 coveries. Not to mention the feveral fmaller iflands 
 in the Southern Pacific, he difcovered the group, called 
 the Sandwich Iflands; which, on account of their fitu- 
 atlon and produdtions, may, perhaps, teccnie an obj"^ 
 of tiiore confequehce than any other difcovery in the 
 South Seas. He explored what had before remained 
 \inknown of the wefterr. coaft of America, an extent 
 cf, three thoufand feven hmdred miles; afcertained the 
 proximity of the two continents of Afia and America ; 
 failed through the ftraits between them, and furveyed 
 the coafts on each fide, fo far as to be fatisfied of the 
 Impracticability of a pafTage in that hemifphere, from 
 the Atlantic into the Pacific Ocean, by an eaftern or a 
 weftern courfe. He has, in fhort, completed the hy- 
 drography of the habitable globe, if we except the Ja-- 
 panefe Archipelago, and the fea of Amur, which are: 
 iliU imperfe^ly known by Europeans. 
 r His fervices, as a navigator, are not lefs important 
 *and meritorious. The method which he invented, and 
 ;jfo fuccefsfiilly put in practice, of preferving the health 
 ftind confequently the lives) of feamen, will tt^tifmit 
 his name to future ages, as a friend and benefiidor of 
 mankind'. 
 
 It is well known am^ng thofe who are dinverfe i- 
 hr naval' hiftory, that the advantages which have been 
 
 fought^ 
 
tivo thou* 
 
 |tion tothe 
 
 5g fo com- 
 
 ive a poffi- 
 
 >le, as to 
 
 Caledonia, 
 
 ^cept New 
 Alfo the 
 ^hich the 
 5g twice 
 
 )ns of the 
 
 tinguiihed 
 of its dif- 
 er iilands 
 mp, called 
 their fitu- 
 
 ail \/tJ>t«<v>^ 
 
 ry in the 
 remained 
 an extent 
 tained the 
 America ; 
 futveyed 
 'd of the 
 ere, from 
 tern or a 
 I the hy. 
 t the Ja- 
 hich are. 
 
 nportant 
 ited, and 
 le health 
 thitifmit 
 hdor of 
 
 nverfe i- 
 ive been 
 fought^ 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. \ 
 
 fought, through the medium of long fea* voyages^ have 
 always been purchafed at a dear rate. That dreadful 
 diforder which is peculiar to this fervice> muft, with- 
 out exercifing an unwarrantable degree of tyranny over 
 our feamen, have been an infuperable obflacle lo our en- 
 terprizes* It was referved for Captain Cook to convince 
 the world, that voyages might be protratSted to three or 
 even four years, in unknown regions, and under every 
 change of climate, without afFedling the health in the 
 fmalleft degree, and even without diminifhing the pro- 
 b^l^ility of life. His method has been fully explained, 
 in a paper which was read before the Royal Society, in 
 1776*. 
 
 Refpe<5^ing his profe/Honal abilities, they mull be 
 fubmitted to the judgement of thofe who are acquainted 
 with the fervices in which he was engaged. They can- 
 not but acknowledge, that to have condu6^ed thre6 fuch- 
 dangerous and difficult expeditions, of fo unufual a 
 length, with invariable fuccefs, rauft not only havfe re- 
 quired an accurate knowledge of his bufinefs, but alfo a 
 mod powerful and comprehenfive genius. 
 
 Having thus given a faithful, though a concife ac^^ 
 count of the death of our much-lamented Commander^ 
 and alfo of his character and fervice, his memory muil 
 now be left to the gratitude and admiration of pofle- 
 rity. 
 
 We have before obferved that four of the marines, 
 who accompanied Captain Cook, were killed by the 
 natives on the fpot. The others, with their lieutenant, 
 Mr, Phillips, threw themfelves into the fea, and made 
 their efcape, being proteded by a fmart fire from the 
 boatSi On this occafion, a flriking inftance of gallant 
 behaviour, and of affe6fcibn for his m6n, was difplayed 
 by Mr. Phillips ; for he had fcarcely got into the boat, 
 when, feeing one of the marines, who was not a very 
 expert fwinuner, ftruggling in the water, and iii dangeir 
 of heing^taken by the iihnders*, he initantly leaped into' 
 thefeatohis affiilauce> thougli confiderably wounded 
 J: N 4 himfelff 
 
 * Sir Godfrey Copley's gold medal was awarded him on that 
 occaiiou*. 
 
273t 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 
 
 
 
 1^1? "1''.. 
 
 ;,^7'' 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 himfelf; and after rer^jiving a blow on his head from a 
 Aone^ which had aUnoft fent him to the bottom, he 
 caught the marine by the hair, and brought him off 
 in fafety. Our people for fomc time kept up a conftant 
 iice from the boats (which, during the whole iranfac- 
 tkm, were at r > greater diflance from the land than 
 twenty yards), in order to afford their unfortimate 
 companions, if any of them Should ftill remain alive, 
 an opportunity of effecting their efcnpe. Thefe con- 
 tinued efforts, feconded by a few guns, that were, at 
 tne fame time, fired from the Refolution, having at 
 length compelled the enemy to retire, a fmall boat, 
 manned by five midfliipmen, pulled towards the fhore, 
 where they perceivetl the bodies lying on the ground, 
 without any figns of life. However, they judged it 
 dangerous to attempt to bring them off with fo incon- 
 fiderable a force ; and their ammunition being nearly 
 confumed, they returned to the iliips, leaving the bo* 
 dies Iq. poffeflion of the natives, togetlier with ten 
 ilands of arms. 
 
 When the general conflernation, which the news of 
 this mi^fovtune had diffufed throughout the whole com- 
 pany of both fhips, had in fome degree fubfided, their 
 attention was called to the party at the moraiy where the 
 mail and fails were on Ihore, guarded by only fix ma- 
 rines. It is difficult to defcribe the emotions that agi-* 
 tated the minds of Mr. King and his attendants at this 
 i^ation, during the time in which thefe occurrences had 
 happened, at the other fide of the bay. Bei*"* at the 
 difiance only of a mile from the village of Kowrowa, 
 they could diflindtly perceive a vaft multitude of peo- 
 ple collefled on the fpot where Captain Cook had jufl 
 before landed. They heard the firing of the mufquets, 
 and obferved an uncommon bufhe r\nd agitation among 
 the crowdi? They afterwards fa'v the iflanders retreat- 
 ing^ the boats retiring from the ihore, and paffing and 
 repaffing, with/great flillnefs^ between the Aiips. Mr. 
 King*s heart foon miigavehim on this occafion. Where 
 fo valuable a life was concerned, he could not avoid 
 being alarmed by fuch new and threatening appear- 
 ances. 
 
-^PACIFIC OCEAN. ^"^ %f$ 
 
 ances. Befides this, he knew that Captain Cookf > fvcuiy 
 a long feries of fuccefsy in his tranfa^ions with' thd 
 natives of this ooean, had acquired a degree of co|i6-> 
 dence> which might, in fome ill-fated moment, puthiif^ 
 too much off hi;, guard ; and Mr. King now faw atl th& 
 dangers to which that confidence might lead, withoun 
 deriving much confolation from the confideration of 
 the experience which had given rife to it. His firft 
 care, on hearing the report of the mufquets, was ta 
 aflure the iflanders, confiderable numbers of whom 
 were aflembled round the wall of our confecrated field^. 
 'nd feemed at a lofs how to account for what they had 
 heard and feen> that they fhould meet with nomolefla- 
 tion ; and that, at all events, he was inclined to con- 
 tinue on peaceable terms with them. 
 
 Mr. King and his attendants remained in thi^ Htu* 
 ation till the boats had returned on board, when Cap- 
 tain Glierke perceiving, by means of his telefcope, that 
 our P'lrty was. furrounded by the natives, who, he 
 thought, defigned to attack them, ordered tWo four- 
 pounders to be fired at the iflanders. Thefe guns, 
 though well aimed, did no mifchief ; but they gave the 
 natives a convincing proof of their powerful efie6ts. 
 A cocoa-nut-tree, under which fome of them were fit- 
 ting, was broken in the middle by one of the balls ; 
 and the other fliivered a rock, which ftood in an exadt 
 line with them* As Mr. King had, jufl before, giveh 
 them the flrongefl aflurances of their fafety,. he was 
 extremely mortified at this aft of hofliiity,.and, to» 
 prevent* its being repeated,, iiiftantly Jifpatchedlaiboat 
 to inform Captain Gierke, that he was, at prei'enti on 
 the mofl amicable terms with the iflanders, and; that, if 
 any future occafton fhould arife for- changing his con- 
 dud towards them, he woUld hoifl a- jack, as a figpal 
 for Captain CleiJce to afford him his affiftance. . 
 K .Mr.'King. waited the return jof: the boat with the 
 greatefl impatience ; andt after, i-emaining for; the fpace • 
 of A quarter of an hour, under the utmofl- anxiety and 
 fufpence, his fears were at length confirmed, by the 
 arrivalof Mr* Bligh, with orders to ftrike the tents; 
 
 N 5. immediately,^ 
 
 iW. 
 
 ■■i 
 
 !■)'■ 
 
 I :;. 
 
 J.'i 
 
m 
 
 A veVAOE TO THE 
 
 111: 
 
 'ill 
 
 i ' ■ 
 
 li 
 
 ri 
 
 Il:!i| 
 
 usmediatery, and to fend on board the fails that were 
 liepairing. At the fame inflaiit^ Kaireekeea having alfo 
 received information of the death of Captain dook, 
 ^m a dative who had arrived from the other fide of 
 tile bay) approached Mr. King, with great deje^ion 
 and ibrrow in his countenance, inquiring whether it 
 was true. 
 
 - The iltuationof the party, at this time, was highly 
 critical and important. Not only their own lives, but 
 the iflue of the expedition, and the return of at leaft 
 one of the (hips, were involved in the fame common 
 danger. They had the mail of the Refolution, and the 
 greater part of the fails, on fhore, proteded by only 
 half a dozen marines. The lofs of thefe would have 
 been irreparable ; and though the iflanders had not as 
 yet tefiified the fmalleil difpofition to moleil the party, 
 it was difficult to anfwer for the alteration, which the 
 intelligencfe of the tr^^fa6lion atKowrowa might pro- 
 duce^ Mr. King therefore thought pro^vsr to difTemble 
 his belief of the death of Captain Cook, and to defire 
 Kaireekeea to difcourage the report ; apprehending that 
 either the fear of our refentment, or the fuccefsful ex- 
 ample of their countrymen, lUighr, perhaps, lead them 
 to feize the' favourable opportunity, which at this time 
 prefented itfelf, of giving us a fecond blow. He, at 
 the fame time, advifed him to bring old Kaoo, and the 
 orjier priefts, into a large houfe adjoining to the morai, 
 partly from a regard to their fafety, in cafe it fhould 
 have been found neceflary to have recourfe to violent 
 meafures; and partly from- a. defire of having him near 
 our people, in order to make ufe of his authority with 
 the natives, if it could be inflrumental in maintaining 
 peace. 
 
 Mr. King^ having ftationed the marines on the top of 
 the moraiy which formed a ftrong and advantageous 
 poft^ intruftesi the command to Mr. Bligh, who re- 
 ceived the moft'pofitive directions to a<5l folely on the 
 defenlive, went on board the Difcovery, in order to 
 confer with Gaj^ain'Clerke on the dangerous fituation 
 of our ailalrs. He had no' fooner l^ft the fpot, than the 
 
 a iilanders 
 
PA C i'FXC OCEAN. 
 
 lat were 
 
 fvingalfo 
 
 Cook, 
 
 fide of 
 
 lejedlion 
 
 lether it 
 
 Is highly 
 (ves, but 
 at leaA 
 common 
 and the 
 by only 
 uld have 
 i not as 
 le party, 
 lich the 
 ght pro- 
 liiTsmble 
 to defire 
 jing that 
 sful ex- 
 ;ad them 
 his time 
 He, at 
 and the 
 e moraiy 
 fhould 
 violent 
 im near 
 ty with 
 taining 
 
 ! top of 
 ageous 
 ho re- 
 3n the 
 der to 
 uatioii 
 an the 
 anders 
 
 ^M 
 
 iflanders began to annoy our people with ftoiies ; aod 
 juft after he had. reached the Ihip, he heard the firinj^ 
 of the marines. He therefore haftily returned on ihore^ 
 where he found affairs growing every moment more^ 
 alarming. The natives were providing arms, and put*^ 
 ting on their mats, and their numbers augmented very- 
 faft. He alfo obferved feveral large bodies advancing 
 towards our party along the clifF, by which the village 
 of Kakooa is feparated from the norih fide of the 
 bay, where Kowrowa is fituate^ 
 
 They at firft attacked our people with flones from, 
 behind the walls of their inclofiires, and meeting with- 
 •no refiftance, they foon became more daring. A few 
 courageous fellows, having crept along the b^ch, un- 
 der cover of the rocks, fuddenly prefented themfelve* 
 at the foot of the moraiy with an intention of ilorm*- 
 ing it on the fide next the fea, which was its only ac« 
 ceffible part ; and they were not diflodged before they 
 had flood a confiderable quantity of £hot, and had fcea 
 one of their number fall. 
 
 The courage of one of thefe afTailants deferves to be 
 recorded. Having returned with a view of carrying 
 off his companion, amidfl the fire of our whole party^ 
 he received a wound, which obliged him to quit th^ 
 body, and iietire; but, a few minutes afterwards, he 
 again made' his appearance, and receiving another 
 wound, was under the neceffity of retreating a fecond 
 time. At that moment Mr. King arrived at the mo^' 
 raiy and faw this man return a third time, feint from 
 the lofs of blood and fatigue. Being informed of 
 what had happened, he forbade the foldiers to fire; and 
 the iflaiider was fuffered to carry off" his friend^ which 
 We was jufl able to accomplifh, and tlien fell down him-' 
 felf, 2Mid breathed his lafl* 
 
 A flrong reinforcement from both fliips having^ 
 landed about this time, the natives retreated behind* 
 their walls, which affording Mr^ King accefsi to the 
 priefls : he fent txte of them to exert his endeavours to> ' 
 bring his countrymen tp fome terms, and" to propofe: 
 to them, that if they would defifl from throwing flones,> 
 
 N 6^ ht 
 
 '■I 
 
 
 1 
 
 ■« 
 
 li 
 

 ' it 
 
 ^76 AVOYAGE TO THE 
 
 « 
 
 he would not allow our men to fire. This truce waJ 
 agreed to, and our people were fui^ered to launch the 
 mait, and carry oiF the fails, agronomical inftruments, 
 &c. without moleflation. As foon as our party had 
 quitted the mora'iy the iflanders took podeilion of it, 
 and fome of them threw a few flones> which, however, 
 did no mifchief. 
 
 Between eleven and twelve o'clock, Mr. King ar- 
 
 , rived on board the Difcovery, where he found that 
 jno decifive plan had been adopted for the regulation 
 cf our future proceedings. The recovery of Captain 
 
 . Cook's body, and the reflitution of the boat, were the 
 objects, which on all hands, we agreed to infift on: 
 and Mr. King declared it as his opinion, that fome 
 vigorous methods fhould be put in execution^ if 
 the demand of them fhould not be inftantly com- 
 plied with. 
 
 Though it may jullly be fuppofed, tliAt Mr. King's 
 feeling on the death of a refpedted and beloved friend, 
 had fome fhare in this opinion ; yet there were doubt- 
 Icfs other reafons, and thofe of the moft ferious nature, 
 that had fome weight with him. The confidence 
 which the fuccefs of the natives, in killing our Com- 
 mander, and obliging us to leave the fhore, mufl natu- 
 rally have infpired ; and the advantage, however incon- 
 £derable, which they had gained over us the preceding 
 day, would, he had no doubt, excite them to make 
 farther dangerous attempts ; and the more particularly, 
 .;is they hud no great reafon, from what they had hi- 
 therto obferved, to dread the effedks of our fire-arms. 
 This kind of weapon, indeed, contrary to the expec- 
 tations of us ail, had produced in them no figns of 
 terror. On our fide, fuch was the condition of our 
 veflels, and the ftate of difcipline among us, that had a 
 vigorous attack been made upon us during the night, 
 the confequences might perhaps have been highly dif- 
 agreeable. Mr. King was fupported in thele appie- 
 henfions by the opinion of the greater part of the 
 officers on board; and nothing feemed to him more 
 likely to encourage the iflanders to make the attempt, 
 
 V than 
 
^^ P A C I F I C O C £ A Xir. » 
 
 ^/'; 
 
 than the appearance of our being inclined to an ac- 
 commodation, which they could only impute to weak* 
 nefs or fear. 
 
 On the other hand it was urged, in favour of more 
 conciliatory meafures, that the mifchief was already 
 done, and was irreparable ; that the natives, by reafon 
 of their former friendfliip and kindnefs had a Arong 
 claim to our regard; and the more particularly, as the 
 late calamitous accident did not appear to have taken 
 its rife from any premeditated defign; that, on the 
 part of Terreeoboo, his ignorance of the theft, his 
 willingnefs to accompany Captain Cook on board the 
 Refolution, and his having ad^ually fent his two font 
 into the pinnace, muft refcue his chura^er in this re- 
 fpedl from the fmallefl degree of fufpicion; thct the 
 behaviour of his women, and the chiefs, might eafily 
 be accounted for, from the apprehenfions occadoned in 
 their minds by the armed force with which Captain 
 Cook landed, and the hoflile prep&Aa>'!ons in the bay; 
 appearances fo unfuitable to the confidence and friend- 
 ihip, in which both parties had hitherto lived; that 
 the arming of the i (landers was manifeAly with a de- 
 fign to reSft the attempt they had fome reafon to «rx- 
 pe£l : would be made, to carry off their fovereign 
 by force, and was naturally to be expeded from^ a 
 people, who had a remarkable affedtion for their 
 •cliiefs^ . ;//-.// 'i-t- 
 
 V . To thefe dictates of humanity, other motives of a 
 prudential kind were added ; that we were in want 
 of a fupply of water, and other refrefliments; that 
 the Refolut ion's foremaft would require fevenor eight 
 days work, before it could be flapped; that the 
 fpring was advancing very fafl ; and that the- fpeedy 
 profecution of our next expedition to Uhemarthwaid 
 ought to be our fote obje6l; and that, therefore, rto* en- 
 gage in a vindicStiver" contefl with the natives, might 
 not only fubjed us to the imputation o£ needlefs 
 cruelty, but would require great delay m the equip- 
 ment of our ihi/% ^ ^-h?\.i.^^h^^rHn^^.:^'\^' 
 ■ >i>-.H ■v^u<MMUyMi^^:^'1ti^U iW';f9Vir4>>vii^^):tCap-, 
 
 % 
 
 1 
 
 * i 
 
 i 
 
 If 
 
 It'' 
 
 wi 
 
m 
 
 
 u n 
 
 Captain Gierke concurred in this latter opinion^ 
 and while we were thus engaged in concerting fome* 
 plan for our future operations, a very numerous con- 
 courfe of the natives ftill kept pofiefTion of the fhore ; 
 and fome of them, coming off in canoes, approached 
 within piflol-fhot of the mips, and infulted us by va- 
 rious marks of defiance and contempt. It was ex- 
 tremely difficulty to reflrain the feamen from the ufe 
 of their arms on the(e occaiions ; but, as pacific mea- 
 fures' had been refolved on^ the canoes wevv? allowed to 
 return unmolefled. 
 
 "Mr, King was now ordered to proceed towards 
 the fhore, with the boats of both fhips, well manned 
 and armed, with a view of bringing the iflanders ta 
 a parley, and of obtaining, if poffible, a conference 
 with fome of the Erees. If he fhould fucceed in this 
 aittempt, he was to demand the dead bodies, and par- 
 ticularly that of Captain Cook; to threaten them^ in 
 cafe of a refufal, with our refentmcnt; but, by no 
 means to fire unlefs attacked 5 and not to goafhoreon 
 any account whatever. Thefe inf^ru6(ions were de- 
 livered to Mr. King before the whole party, in the 
 mod pofitive manner. rt 
 
 Mr. King and his detachment left the fhips about 
 four o'clock in the afternoon ; and, as they approached 
 the fhore, they perceived every indication of a hoflile 
 reception. The natives were all in motion; the wo-' 
 men and children retiring; the men arming th^mfelves 
 with long fpears and daggers, and putting on their war 
 mats. It alfo appeared, that fince the morning, they 
 had thrown up breafl-works of fVOne along the beach," 
 where Captain Cook had landed, in expedlation, per- 
 haps, of an attack at that place. 
 
 As foon as our party were within reach, the iflanders 
 began to throw flortes at them with flings, but without 
 doing any mifchief. Mr. Kin^ concluded, from thefe 
 appearances, that all attempts to bring theiii to a par- 
 ley Would be iuefFe6tual, unleft he^ve them fome 
 ground for mutual confidence : he rfferbfore ordered 
 the armed boats to flop, and advanced alone, in the 
 
 fmall 
 
F AC IF 10 ocEAK. a79 
 
 fmall boaty holding in his hand a white flag; tha 
 meaning of which> from an univerfal fliout of joy froni 
 the natives, he had the fatis£i6lion to find was imme* 
 diately \inderflood. The women inflantly returned 
 from the fide of the hill, the men threw off their mat8» 
 and all feated themfelves together by the fea fide, ex- 
 tending their arms, and inviting Mr* King to land. 
 
 Though fucli behaviour feemed expreflive of a friend- 
 ly difpofition, he could not avoid entertaining fufpi- 
 cions of its fmcerity. But when we faw Koah, with 
 extraordinary boldnefs and aflurance, fwimming off 
 towards the boat, with a v^ite flag in his hand, he 
 thought proper to return this mark of confidence, and 
 accordingly received him into the boat, though he wa» 
 armed ^ a circumfiance which did not contribute to 
 leflen Mr. King's fufpicions. He had, indeed, long 
 harboured an unfavourable opinion of Koah. The 
 priefts had always reprefented him as a perfon of a. 
 malicious temper, and no friend to us ; and the re- 
 peated detections of his fraud and treachery, had con- 
 vinced us of the truth of their affertions. Befides^ 
 the melancholy tranfadlions of the morning, in which he 
 was feen performing a principal part, infpired Mr. King 
 with the utmofl horror at finding himfelf fo near him;* 
 and as he approached him, with feigned tears, and) 
 embraced him, Mr. King was fo diftruftful of his in- 
 tentions, that he took hold of the point of the pahooof^ 
 which the chief held his hand, and turned it from 
 him. He informed the iflander, that he had comer 
 to demand the body of Captain Cook, and to declare- 
 war againft the natives, iinlefs it was reftored without 
 delay. Koah affured him that this fhould be done as 
 foon as poflible, and that he would go himfelf for that, 
 purpofe ; and after requefling a piece of iron of Mr« 
 King, he leaped into the water and fwam afhore, 
 calling out to his countrymen, that we were all friends 
 again. 
 
 Our people waited with great anxiety, near an hour, 
 
 for his return. Daring this interval, the other boats 
 
 had approached ia near the jihore that the men who 
 
 were 
 
 ! 
 

 
 t i 
 
 ! 
 
 IfsltiJ?' (! 
 
 I if: 
 
 ii:i 
 
 11^' , 
 
 a,8p A v.oYAeE to the 
 
 wqre ia them entered into converfation with* a party 
 oi.the iflinders, at a little diflance; by whom they 
 were informed, that the Captain's body had been cut 
 to. pieces, and carried up the country; but of thi& 
 circumftance Mr. King was not apprized till his re- 
 twa to tht fhips. • 
 
 Mr. Kin^ now began to exprefs fome degree of 
 impatience at Koah's delay; upon which the chiefs 
 preiled him exceedingly to land; afTuring him, that 
 if he would go in perfon to Terreeoboo, the body would 
 undoubtedly be reftored to him. When they found 
 they could not get Mr. King to go afliore, they en- 
 deavpured> on pretence of converfing with him with 
 greater eafc to decoy his boat among fome rocks, 
 where they i jht have had it in their power to fepa- 
 rate him fro.n the other boats. It was eafy to fee 
 through thefe artifices, and he was, therefore, very 
 defirous of breaking off all communication with them,, 
 when a chief approached, who had particularly at- 
 tached himfelf to Captain Gierke, and the officers of 
 tbe^ Difcovery, on board which Ihip he had failed 
 when v^'e laA quitted the bay, intending to take his 
 pafTage to the iHand of Mowee. He faid he came from 
 T^reeobob, to acquaint our people, that the body was 
 carried up the country, but that it fhould be brought 
 back the following morning. There appeared much < 
 fincerity in his manner; and being afked, if he uttered. 
 ».£ilf|phood, he hooked together his two fore fingers^ 
 which is here underflood as the iign of veracity, in 
 the ufe of which tliefe iflanders are very fcrupuIouSf,, 
 -Mr^ King being now at a lofs how to proceed, 
 fent Mr. Vancouver to inform Captain Clerke of all 
 t^a4:-had palTed; that it was his opinion, the natives 
 iUd not intend t<) keep their word with us ; and^ far 
 from being grieved tit what had happened, were,,. on. 
 the qontrary, infp\red with great confidence on ac^ui^t 
 of their late fviccef)?, and fought only' to gain time, till 
 they could plan fome fcheme for .getting pur jieopje 
 into their po\yer. Mr. Vaucouvei; came , back .with 
 orders for Mr, King to return on board, sifx^ SJ^^^^ 
 
 
 th9 
 
PACIFIC OC£AV« 
 
 281 
 
 tTie iflanders to underftand, that, if the body was no% 
 raftered the next morning, the town /hould be dc- 
 ftroycd. •** 
 
 'When they perceived our pary retiring, they en- 
 deavoured to provoke them by the moft contemptuous 
 and infulting geftures. Several of our people faid^ 
 they could diftinguifli fome of the natives * parading 
 about in the clothes which had belonged to our unhap- 
 py countrymen, and among them an Free, brandiihing 
 Captain Cook's hanger, and a woman holding the 
 fcabbard. • . "^>; 
 
 In confequence of Mr. King's report to Captain' 
 Cl^^-ke, of what he fuppofed to be the preient tem^ 
 per* and dipofition of the inhabitants, the moft effect 
 tual» methods were taken to guard againft any attaAf 
 they might 'make during the night. The boats wcrfc 
 moored with top-chains; additional fentinels were 
 ilationed in each of our fhips ; and guard-boats Wcire 
 dife6led to row round tlieno, in order to prevent the 
 iflanders from cutting the cables. " - ' 
 
 We pafled the night without any difturbancc, et-*' 
 cept from the bowlings and lamentations which were 
 heard on ihore. Early the next morning (Monday; 
 the 15th) Koah came along fide the refolution, with' 
 a fmall pig, and fome cloth, which he defired per«* 
 miflion to prefent to Mr. King. We liave already- 
 mentioned, that this officer was fuppofed, by the* 
 iflanders to be the fon of Captain Cook ; and as tHe 
 latter iiad always fufFered them to believe it, Mr. 
 King was probably confidered as the chief after his 
 death. As foon as he came on deck, he interrogated 
 Kdab, with regard to the body ; and on his returning 
 cvafive anfwers, refuied to accept his prefents, and 
 was on the point 'Of difmifling him with exprefllohs 
 of anger and refentment, had not Captain Clerke, with 
 a view of keeping up the apipearance of friendfhi^, 
 judged it more proper, that he fhould be treated with 
 the cuftomary refpe6k. 
 
 This chief came frequently to us in the courfe of 
 the morningi with Come' trifling prefent or other; 
 / and 
 
 
 41 
 
 m 
 
 
 '■i 
 
 i' i 
 
iSa 
 
 A ,y o YA o E ra the 
 
 m - '■■■ 
 
 Uk ^lu 
 
 and as we always obferved him eyeing every part of 
 the fhip with a great degree of attention, we took 
 care he ftiould fee we were well prepared for our 
 defence. 
 
 He was extremely urgent both with Captain Gierke 
 and Mr* King to go on ihore, imputing the detention 
 <tf the bodies to the other chiefs; andafTuring thofe 
 gentlemen, that every thing might beadjufted to their 
 latisfaiS^ion, by a perfonal interview with the king, 
 ilowever, they did not think it prudent to comply 
 with Koah's requeft ; and, indeed, a fadl came after- 
 wards to their knowledge, which proved his want of 
 veracity : for, they were informed, that, immediately 
 after the adtion in which Captain Cook had loft his 
 life, Terreeoboo had retired to a cave in the fteep part 
 of the mountain, that hangs over the bay, which was 
 acceffible only by means of ropes, and where he con- 
 tinued for feveral days, having his proviflons let dowa 
 tphim by cords. 
 
 ■" After the departure of Koah from the ^ips, we 
 obierved that his countrymen, who had a^mbled by 
 day break, in vaft crowds on the fhore, flocked around 
 hiti with great eagerneft on his landing, as if they 
 Wifiied to learn the iatelligence he had gained, and 
 what Bieps were to be taken in confeqiaenco of it. It 
 i» highly probable, that they expe6):ed we fhould at- 
 tethpt to put our threats in execution, and they ap« 
 peared fully determined to ftand their ground. Du« 
 ring the whole morning, we heard conchs blowing 
 in various parts of the coaft ; large parties were per- 
 ceived marching over the hills ; and, upon the whole^ 
 appearances were fo alarmihg, that we carried out a 
 Hream anchor, for the purpofe of hauling the fhip 
 abreaft of the town, in cafe of an attack; and boats^ 
 were ftationed ofF the northern point of the bay, in 
 order to prevent a furprixe from the natives ia that 
 qUi^rter. 
 
 The warlike poftu^e in which tliey appeared at pr^^ 
 fbnt, and the breach' of their engagement to reftdre 
 the bodii^ of the ilain; occafioned fki&i dc^tes amoogr 
 
 ; . ' • . ^ . ' US, 
 
V FAClPiC OCEAN. '-.. 2% 
 
 • 
 
 US, Concerning the meafurey which fliould now be pur-- ' 
 fued. It was at length determined, that nothing fhould 
 be permitted to interfere with the repair of the Refo- 
 Intion's maft, and the preparations for our departure; 
 but that we fhould, neverthelefs, continue our ne^ 
 gociations for the reftoration of the bodies of our 
 countrymen. 
 
 The greater part of the day was employed in get* 
 ting the foremaft into a proper fituation on thte deck, 
 that the carpenters might work upon it; and alfo in 
 making the requifite alterations in the commiffi6ns 6f 
 the officers. The chief com mamd of thfc expeditforf 
 having devolved on Captain Gierke, he removed on 
 board the Refolution, promoted Lieutenant Gore to^ 
 the rank of Captain of the Difcovery, appoirited MefTr*.^ 
 King and Williamfon iiril and fecond Lieutenarlts of! 
 the Refolution, and nominated Mr. Harvey, a mitfi 
 fliipiC^n; who had accompanied Captain Cook in hw* 
 two laft voya'/es, to fill the vacant lieutenaitey?^ 
 During the whole day, we fuftained no interruptioa^ 
 ft 3m the iflanders; and, in the evening, the launch . 
 ^vas mored with a: top-chain, and guard-boats ftationcdf 
 round each of the fhips as before. ' 
 
 About eight o'clock, it being exceedingly dark, W^ 
 heard a canoe paddling towards the fhip; and it wds' 
 no fooner perceived than both the fentinels on disck" 
 fired into it. There were two of the natives in this' 
 canoe, who immediately roared out " Ttnnee,^* (which 
 was their method of pronouncing Mr. King's name) 
 and faid they were friends, and had fomething with 
 them #hich belonged to Captain Cook, When the^ 
 capie on board, they threw themfelves at the feet w 
 our bjicers, and feemed to be extremely terrified* It 
 fortunately happened, that neither of them was huft, 
 notwithftanding the balls of both pieces had gorie' 
 through the canoe. . f . 
 
 ». *One of them was the perfon, who has been already 
 mentioned, un4er the appellation of the taho manj^^ 
 Viho conilantly attwided Captain Cook with the partt- 
 
 i : : ' .;' 
 
 !■ ■• 
 
 u 
 1 
 
 "! 
 
 |i 
 
 II 
 
 m 
 
 I. 
 
1 I 
 
 ir tf, » 
 
 ir-^rvt 
 
 n i 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 •'7 
 
 if 
 
 •it 
 
 284 
 
 cular ceremonies we have before defcribcd ; anci v/h<s, 
 though a man of diflindtion in the ifland, could fcarce- 
 ly be prevented from performing for him the moft hu- 
 miliating offices of a menial fervant. After bewailing, 
 v.ith many tears, the lofs of the Oronoy he informed 
 us, that he had brought a part of his body. He then 
 gave us a fmall bundle which he brought under his arm ; 
 it is impoffible to defcribe the horror with which we 
 were feized, upon finding in it, a piece of human flefh 
 about the weight of nine or ten pounds. This, he 
 faid, was all that now remained of the body; tha^ the 
 reft had been cut in pieces and burnt; but that the 
 head^ and all the bones, except thofe which belonged 
 to the trunk, were in the pofleffion of Terreeoboo and 
 the other chiefs; that what we faw had been allotted 
 to Kaoo, the chief of the priefts, for the purpofe of 
 bciaf ufed in fome religious ceremony; and that he had 
 km, it as a teftimony of his innocence, and of his at- 
 )(;i^i9)ent to us. 
 
 ^hoDgh we prefied our two friendly vifitants to con- 
 t\iKi»M on board till the next morning, we could not 
 pfevail upon them* They informed us, that if thiS: 
 traniadkion fhould come to the knowledge of the king, 
 at my of the other Ereesy it might be attended with 
 the moft fatal confequences to their whole fociety; 
 to prevent which, they had been under the neceiHty of 
 cpming ^o us in the dark; and the fame precaution^ 
 they faid, would be requifite in returning on (hore. 
 They farther told us, that he chiefs were eager to take 
 revenge o£\ us for the death of their cc jntrymen; and 
 partifulariy cautioned us againft trufting Koah, who, 
 they a^ured us, was our implacable enemy> and ar- 
 detitly Iqnged for an opportunity of fighting us^ to 
 which tbe blowing of the conchs, that we ha4, heard 
 11^, th^ morning, was intended as a challengp*, * 
 
 tt alfo appeared from the information oT thefe men* 
 that fe\'enteen of their countrymen had beei^ Aaio in 
 the firft adlion, at the village of Kowrowa, five of 
 whom were chiefs ; and that Kaneena and his brot|ier, 
 our particular friends^ were of that fiumber. Eight, 
 
 they 
 
si 
 
 fcarce- 
 loft hu« 
 
 ailing, 
 
 iformed 
 
 ie then 
 
 lis arm ; 
 
 lich we 
 
 lan flefh 
 
 hisy he 
 
 that the 
 
 that the 
 
 belonged 
 
 boo and 
 
 allotted 
 
 rpofe of 
 
 t he had 
 
 f his at- 
 
 s to con* 
 ould not 
 t if this 
 he king, 
 led with 
 fociety; 
 :eflity of 
 ^caution, 
 n fhore. 
 r to take 
 ten; and 
 ih, who, 
 and ar- 
 5 us, to 
 iq heard 
 
 iie ment 
 
 flaiotn 
 
 , five of 
 
 brot)ier, 
 
 Eight, 
 
 they 
 
 PACtFIG OCEAN. a»5 
 
 they faicJ, had loft the?r lives at the obfervatory; 
 three of whom likewife were perfons of the firft dif- 
 tiaion. • '' N 
 
 .The two natives left us about eleven o'clock, and 
 took the precaution to defire, that one of our guard- 
 boats might? attend them, till they had pafled the Dif- 
 covery, left they fhould again be fired upon^ whrch^ 
 by alai^ming their countrymen on ftiore, might expofe 
 them |» the danger of detection. The requeft was 
 readily complied with, and we had the fatisfad^ion; 
 to find, that they reached the land fafe and undifco* 
 vered. 
 
 We heard, during the remainder of this night, th^ 
 fame loud lamentations as in the preceding onc^ £ably 
 thjE following morning, we received a vifit from' Kbdh^ 
 Mr. King was piqued at finding, that, notwithftandioi^* 
 the moil glaring marks of treachery in his- coiidii'£^^^ 
 and the pofitive declaration of our friends the prieftsi' 
 he ihould ftill bo lutFered to carry on the fame farce^* 
 and to make us at leaft appear the dupes of his'hyn'* 
 pocrify. Our fltuation was, indeed, become e)ctrem«'*i 
 ly aukward and unpromiflng; none of the purp6(e»lof 
 which this pacific plan of proceedings had^^en 
 adopted, having hitherto been, in any refped^, prcfmftlied- 
 by it. No fatisfa<Slory anlwer had beeii given to 6Wt 
 demands ; we did not feem to have made any prO'greft' 
 towards a reconciliation with the natives; they ilill 
 remained on the fhore in hoftile poftures, as if dete?-^ 
 mined to oppofe any endeavours vre might make to 
 go afhore ; and yet it was become abfolutely necefljjry 
 to attempt landing, as the completing our ftock of 
 \v4ter would not admit of any longer delay. - ' 
 
 We muft remark, however, in juftice to the condu6^ 
 of Captain Gierke, that it was highly probable, froiiii 
 thfe great numbers of the iflanders, and from the rtfo^- 
 lution with which they feemed to expe6l oUr approach^ 
 thii: 'kri &t!tack could not have been made witmnit^^tth- 
 ger ; and that thfe* lofs of e^^en a very fe^v-'meiij il^^ht 
 hiiir6 be^ki (everely felt by us, during the- remAi rider 
 ^f ota'tivopge; Whereas the dela.yiiig to gut o^i^ md- 
 
 tfeiiJc-'i .Ui I i'l; ^».-»nni;>^ Urt? . ilt•ii^ ^-lOv^ iiicriw 
 
 
 ' ■■ ■ ^'h 
 
 i ■ '■]V 
 
 ! i -At 
 
 \ 
 
 '!i 
 
 I 
 
 ■'vV 
 
 ''A 
 
 % 
 
 .'■'■' 
 'ii 
 
 m 
 
 Hi 
 
It * 
 
 ¥ 
 
 p»;' 
 
 
 aSo^ A TO Y AGE TO THE 
 
 naces into* execution, though, on the one hand, it di- 
 minified their opinion of our valour, had theeffedl of 
 occafioning them to difperfe on the other. For this 
 day, about twelve o'clock, upon finding that we per- 
 illed in our inactivity, great bodies of them, after 
 blowing their conchs, and ufing every method of de- 
 fiance, marched off over the hills, and never made their 
 . appearance afterwards. Thofe, however, who remained, 
 were not the lefs daring and prefumptuous. One of 
 ; them had the infolence to come within mufquet fhot, 
 ahead of the Relolution, and, after throwing feveral 
 ftones at us, waved over his head the hat which had be- 
 longed to Captain Cook, while his countrymen afhore 
 were exulting and encouraging his audacity. 
 , Our people were highly enraged at this infult, and 
 coming in a body on the quarter deck, begged they 
 , might no longer be obliged to put up with fuch re- 
 , iterated provocations, and requefted Mr. King to en- 
 deavour to obtain permiflion for them, from Captain 
 
 ♦ Clerke, to take advantage of the firft fair occafion, of 
 avenging the death of their much-lamented commander. 
 
 ',On Mr. King's acquainting the Captain with what 
 
 ;was pafling, he ordered fome great guns to be fired 
 
 rat the iflanders on {hore; and promifed the crew, that 
 if they fhould be molefted at the watering-place, the 
 
 . next day, they fliould then be permitted to chaflife 
 them. Before we could bring our guns to bear, the 
 natives had fufpedled our intentions, from the buftle 
 
 /and agitation they obferved in the fhip, and had retired 
 behind their hpufes and walls. We were confequently 
 
 .obli^d to fire at random; notwithftanding which, 
 our fhot produced all the effe6ls we could defire. For, 
 
 . m a fhort time afterwards, we perceived Koah paddling 
 towards us, with the greateft hafte; and when he ar- 
 rived, we learned, that fome people had loft their 
 
 .lives, and among the reft Maiha-maiha, a principal 
 MreCf nearly related to Terreeoboo. 
 
 During the uigbt. we took the ufual precautions for 
 the fecurity of (the mips ; and, as foon as it was dark, 
 the two natives^ who had vifited us the precedin,^ even- 
 
 • i . ing, 
 
 \i 
 
nd, it di- 
 I efFea of 
 For this 
 t we per- 
 ;m, after 
 od of de- 
 lade their 
 emained, 
 One of 
 uet fhot, 
 ig feveral 
 h had be- 
 en alhore 
 
 ifult, and 
 ;ged they 
 fuch re- 
 ing to en- 
 (1 Captain 
 cafion, of 
 mmander, 
 vith what 
 3 be fired 
 rew, that 
 place, the 
 to chaflife 
 bear, the 
 :he buflle 
 lad retired 
 ifequently 
 g which, 
 fire. For, 
 1 paddling 
 len he ar- 
 loft their 
 principal 
 
 [utions for 
 was dark, 
 ding even- 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. ^87 
 
 ing, came off to us again. They aflured us, that 
 though the efFe6ts of our great guns, this afternoon, 
 had greatly alarmed the chiefs, they had by no means 
 relinquifhed their hoftile intentions, and they advifed 
 us to be on our guard. 
 
 The following morning, which was the 17th, the 
 boats of both fhips were difpatched aihore to procure 
 water; and the Difcovery was warped clofe to the 
 beach, in order to protedl the perfons employed in that 
 fervice. We foon found that the intelligence which 
 had been fent us by the priells, was not deftitute of 
 foundation, and that the iflanders were determined to - 
 negltOi no opportunity of annoying us, when it could 
 be done without much hazard. 
 
 The villages, throughout this whole duller of iflands, 
 are, for the moft part, fituated near the fea ; aud the 
 adjacent ground is enclofed with ftone walk, of the 
 height of about three feet. Thefe, we at firll fuppofed, 
 were defigned for the divi£.on of property ; but we now 
 difcovered that they ferved for a defence againft inva- 
 fion, for which purpofe they were, perhaps, chiefly 
 intended. They confift of loofe flones, and the na- 
 tives are very dexterous in fhifting them, with great 
 quicknefs, to fiich particular fituations, as the dire6lion 
 of the attack may occafionally require. In the fides of 
 the mountain, that ftands near the bay, they have like- 
 wife holes, or caves, of confiderable d'^pth, whofe en-» 
 trance is fecured by a fence of a iimilar kind. From 
 behind both thefe ftations, the iflanders perpetually *" 
 harrafled our watering party with ftones ; nor could the 
 inconfiderable force we haa on fhore, with the advan- 
 tage of mufquets, compel them to retreat. 
 
 Thus oppofed, our people were fo occupied in at« 
 tending to their own fafety, that, during the whole 
 forenoon, they filled only one tun of water. It being 
 therefore impofiible for them to perform this fervice, tin 
 their alTailants Were driven to a greater diflance^ the Dif- 
 covery was ordered to diflodge the enemy with her great 
 guns ; which being accomplifhed by means of a hiv dif- 
 charges, \h» men landed. without moMlatiom -^-^ *' '^ 
 
 ;!1I 
 
 
 i I 
 
 •t 
 
 >11 
 
 f.:l 
 
 ■ f ; 
 
 1::; 
 
 •i i\l 
 
 $ 
 > 
 
ii II? 
 
 h ■ ■ 
 
 K 
 
 If ' 
 
 If' 
 
 jfOYACETOfHE 
 
 )>oj^yer, rr^cb, their appearance a^jiny 
 
 ill thei/, ulual m^th^ and 
 
 d^med^afc.'olulery neceSTary to burn dowh 
 
 pg;^h^ts,^ear thewajx behihd whitlrthey 
 
 ;thejrHetyes. ' . ^ ^ . 
 
 yeti tofiitirn only ai few 
 rded flidtef to the lflan<t- 
 
 lome Itragj 
 
 g 
 
 we^ gVeatly ififfj^^^^^ on perceiViilg the'whpfe 
 ge vL ffeiSe^'^ krid tffifbrfi' a boat, that wa5 lent tb 
 
 Hinds, tRe 
 ^ / therefore, 
 
 f ■■■■ J" < ■ V "^ 
 
 " reafpa t6 jdmeht the illnefs that coniinedhiift on 
 pjro, tbis day; The priefts had always " been uftder 
 !h|^. j)jppte<ai(5H|'rfnd;^^^'f^^^ t4ie officers' tJi(?ii 
 
 4Wi4u!^ havin^teldom been on (here at the ni&rai^ -^ftkr^ 
 Ki^t ifttleiicqiiainted wlth'thecircumftancesof thepja^^. 
 Had he bJeeh prefeht himfelf, he might, in allprobabi* 
 Ii^y, have been the means of preferving their little fi;- 
 ciety from deft ru6kion. 
 
 In efcaping from the flames, 'ie^eral of the -inhabi- 
 tants wer6 (Hot ; and our people cut off the he^Hs of 
 two of therft, and brought them on board. The fate 
 of one unhappy native was much lamented by all of 
 us. As he was repafring to the well for water, he was 
 ihot at by one of the marines. The ball happened to 
 ilrike his calibafh, which he inftantly threw from him, 
 and ran oiF. He was purfoed into one of the caves 
 above mentioned, and no lion could have defended his 
 ilen with gi'eater bravery and fiercenefs ; till at length, 
 after he fcid foutid means to keep two of our people 
 at bay for a coniiderable time, he expired, covered with 
 liiTounds. This accident firft; brought us acquainted 
 with the ufe to which thefe caverns are applied. 
 
 About this time a man, advanced in years, was 
 taken prifoner, bounds and conveyed on board the Re - 
 Ibhitaon, in the fame boat with tke heads of his two 
 countrymen. We n^ver obferved horror fo llf ongly 
 portrayed, as in the face of this perfon, nor fo violent 
 a traniitiau to iiiunodt^rate joy, as when he was untied, 
 
 and 
 
 ii-. 
 
 '■*! 
 
'■71 
 
 ..o 
 
 irn dowh 
 'they 
 
 ily; ac fe\¥ 
 
 ewKpfe 
 L^ l«nt ttt 
 the land; 
 lends, the 
 therefore, 
 sdhiA on 
 ten ufid^r 
 cers' tK(?ii 
 irai^- Wfepe 
 thepjae^. 
 I probabi* 
 r little f^;- 
 
 ic-inLahi- 
 .e heails of 
 The fate 
 fey all of 
 ?r, he was 
 ippened to 
 from him, 
 the caves 
 ■ended his 
 at length, 
 mr people 
 '^ered with 
 cquainted 
 ed, • ' 
 ears, was 
 dtheRe- 
 F his two 
 ► flfongly 
 fo violent 
 as untied, 
 and 
 
 ^ 
 
 FAGIFIC OCEAir. 
 
 ft99 
 
 
 mg 
 
 riven to uti4erftaiid, t1iathemirika^iitiii&fttT» 
 [lewed us that hie was not deficient lA midtii^ 
 a$, lie not only often returned aftcrwardi withpreftntt 
 of proviflons, but alio did us other lenricei* ** 
 
 ,, In a £hort time after the deftrudion of the Tilli^ 
 we law^ coming down the hill, a miE^ accompMilcSb/ 
 fifteen or twenty boys, who held m their haiidl'ipistek 
 of white cloth, plantain^ green bom^i^ &c* Itlkkp^ 
 pened that this pacific embafly, at ioon at th^ wece 
 withiiv reach) received the fire of a party of oiir mA* 
 This, however, did not deter them from conHnulng 
 theii: procefllon, and the officer on duty came up m 
 time to prevent a fecond difcharge. At they mado'k 
 nearer approach, the principal perfon proved to be oi^ 
 friend Kaire^keea, , who had fled when our people £H^ 
 ftt Are to the village, and had now returned, atid^i^* 
 preS^d. his deflre of being fent on board the Rel^H 
 lutiop. /^V^^._. :.,.., :a; .^ '^■-" ^ ■' p 
 
 On his arrival we found him extremely thoughttul 
 and grave. We endeavoured to convince him of the 
 neceflity there was of fetting fire to the vilfa^, by 
 which his houfe and thofe of his brethren were unin^ 
 tentionally deftroyed* He expofiulated witll us on o\A 
 ingratitude and want of friendfbip ;/ s|nd, ind^d, it 
 was pot till the prefent moment, tbat we knew the 
 V^hole^xtent of the injury that ba4 been done them. H^ 
 infor;nc;4 ^h that, confiding hji ide promiies Mr. King 
 had made them, as well as in the .^urances they* 
 had received from the men, who had brQught^i^s fom^^ 
 of ,C;^ptain Cook's remains, they had not renabved their 
 efi^c^S hack into the country, as the other inhabitant^ - 
 had donOj^. hut jiad piit every valuable- artjcle of their 
 own, as well as what they had> collected from us, into 
 a houfe adjoining tfe the moraiy where they had the 
 mortifieatiwi to fqe it all fet on fire by our j)epple« 
 He had, on coming^ on board, perceived the liea^^v^ 
 his two CQun^try m?nf lying on^ deck, at which* hg was 
 greatly fliQcked^ and ea^e]ftly defircd that tliey migfit 
 
 ■ Q ....... . 
 
 ■A i-i 
 
 
 ^ith v:t^ 
 
 -. -•■<■»■» 
 
 
 t'uv 
 
 t tV v^^ul .fi 
 
 Aid* 1^' 
 
 ••^ - •• «« 
 
 m 
 
 
 . i 
 
 'M' 
 
 .1^ 
 
 ■c 
 
 
 i 
 
 
In 
 Iff 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 VO Y AG 
 
 E TO 
 
 THE 
 
 >ethro\iiin QveV-board! Tbisrequdi, by the ilfeJ^foxu 
 of C^iptabi Clerjke, was iipipediately complied witb. . 
 r.>. Our watering party returned on board in the even- 
 ing, having fuilained no farther interruption. W^ 
 -paflcd a difagrecable night; the cries and lamentations 
 .w^ heard from tbe ftiore being far more dreadful than 
 jBVfjr. Our- only cpnfolation, on this occafion, arofe 
 from th^ hopes that ;i repetition of fuch fevcritics might 
 not be requifite ixv future. ^^J > ^^ - ^ ^ j ^ ^ , -. 
 >n{* The next morning the treacherous K'bah' came otf to 
 ^eihips, as ufu^. . There being no longer any ne- 
 •^reffity for keeping terms with him, Mr. King was al- 
 lowed to treat him as he thought proper. When he 
 Hp^oachcd the fidf of the Refolution, Tinging a fong, 
 and oflfering a hog and fome plantains to Mr. King, 
 the latter ordered him to keep off, and cautioned him 
 never to make his appearance again without the bones 
 tf Captain Gook, leit his life ihould pay the forfeit of 
 his repeated breach of faith. He did not appear much 
 . mortified with this unwelcome reception, but iitime- 
 diately returned on ihore, and joined a party of his 
 cOUBtrymei^ who were throwing flones at our wa* 
 terers. - . - c ^^v v ^^ ^^^.^ - y; 4;.^:,^^ • g-o... i ^ -4 d p'v' 
 ' The iflahdcrs being at length convinced tb^t it was 
 not the want of ability to chaftize them, which had in- 
 duced us at firfl to tolerate their provocations, defifted 
 from mokfling our people ; and, towards the evening, 
 a chief, named Eappo, . who had feldom vifited us, but 
 whom U'e knew to be a maji of the firft diflin^ion, 
 came with prefents from Terrecoboo to fue for peace. 
 Thfefe prefents were accepted, and the chief was dif- 
 mifled with the following anfwer : That no peace would 
 be granted, till the remains of Captain Cook (hould be 
 reftored.^ ^- V^-lys^'v^-^. -— -H «:^- *v, ^-.,-;:^^ ;: ^n^j.j^-r. 
 - , We wercr informed by Eappo> thit the flefh of all the 
 bones of our people who had been Hain, as well as the 
 b'Hies of thfe trunks, had been bnmt; that the limb-bones 
 of the marines had been diftributed among the iaferior 
 chiefs ; and that the remains of Captain Cook had been 
 difpofed of as follows : the head to a great Erce, called 
 
 Ka- 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN*/ 
 
 .1 
 
 291 
 
 d witli. 
 the even- 
 on. Wft 
 dentations 
 dful than 
 arofe 
 ties might 
 
 on, 
 
 r< 
 
 ime off to 
 
 r my ne- 
 
 g was al- 
 
 When he 
 
 ig afong, 
 
 lyir. King, 
 
 :ioned him 
 
 the bones 
 
 B forfeit of 
 
 pear much 
 
 )ut i09me« 
 
 irty of his 
 
 It our wa- 
 
 • -^ - ,• - 1 ■ * 
 
 ' if- . . A^ji • > 
 
 hat it was 
 ichhad in- 
 is, defifled 
 le evening, 
 :ed us, but 
 dtftin^ioD, 
 for peac«. 
 ef was dif- 
 eace would 
 i fhould be 
 
 ii of All, the 
 well as the 
 limb-boneS 
 the iBferior 
 k had been 
 irce, called 
 Ka- 
 
 Kahooopcon ; the hair to Maiha-nfaiiha ; wd the armsi 
 !^gs itnd thighs to Terreeoboo* ^s^^et) it'Jvrae^ dark, 
 many of the native^ came off with various T<)rts of ve- 
 getables ; and we alfo received from Kaireekeea two 
 Targe prefents of the fame articles. ' 
 
 The next day was principally employed- in fending 
 arid recervihg the meifages that pafled between Captain 
 Clerke aiid the oM king. Eappo waivery urgent, 
 that one of our officers fhould go on ihore ; and of: 
 fered to remain on board, in the m^an time as anhof- 
 tage. This requefl, however, was not complied mtkj 
 and he left us with a promife of bringiug the bones. the 
 following day. Our watering party, at the beach, di4 
 not f)heet with the leaft bppofition from the iflanders ; 
 wh6,-n6twith{landing our cautious behavtour» again 
 Vehtumt themfelves amongfl us without any marks 9f 
 diffWehce ot pprehenfion* ^ 
 
 • On Saturday ^hb loth, early in the morning, we 
 had the fStisfadten of getting the fore-maft ilcpped. 
 I'hiS 6p6i'afi<yn was attended with confiderable di£Bculty, 
 aiid fciibef^ diitiger; dur rftpes being fo extremely rotten , 
 that tfi^g^jtiircfiif^ feveral times gave way. 
 •/"This ^^R^fifltoj^; between the hours of ten and eleven, 
 welaW^a'numefrdts body of the natives defcending the 
 hHI, ^feh is: Wer the beach, in a fort of pr oceii^n, 
 e^hibah^krryiiig on his {houlders two or three fugar- 
 cqthe^i a'f^lbmi^bread'fruit, plantains, and tarc^ in his 
 handi'-Tlieyi-'^Qjre preceded by twa dramn^ersi wh<\ 
 when they reached «he water-'fide,; feirted the»ifelv(^s by 
 i%feiWflRg,:;arfdt(egan beating thieir drums, white th(.lc 
 WKd'lfii4'fSwIdWed them, advanced, one by one, and 
 d(!»pofit^ th^ prefents they had brought witi^ tbem ; 
 after which they^retired in the iame or^der. Soon at- 
 t^rwardVEappo'^ appeared in his long featheredl; cbak, 
 bearing fomething with great folemnity in his hands; 
 and havingf ftati^ned himfelf on a rcsik, ho^iiuj^iigns 
 thar^'ab^at'fiiouldbe fentiiim*^'r7 m] / !?•: ;--:fr:Tr;, 
 " '<:!apifjuii Clerku, fiippofiug that the chief hsdrhrought 
 the b^nef of Captain Cook <which> indeed, proved to 
 be the cAfe,) weo^ l^mfelf tii\ the pitm;^e tp Yi^eive 
 
 l-V-^"- 
 
 O a 
 
 therr 
 
 »< 
 
 
 I 
 
 :i', 
 
 !; 
 
 1^^: 
 
 r 
 
 !«;! 
 
 If 
 
 rlii 
 
 
 m 
 
p 
 
 W'l 
 
 ;^ 
 
 i^'X X V^VAGE TO THS 
 
 tHSIhy fthd orderaft^r. fiLiog to attend him in the out* 
 
 ttri ■■ WtAm^tlKy arrived at the beaciv J&4»po> ^nt^rr 
 
 ifil; the:iritu»<:4^<a9liverBd the honey to Captain Q^Jri^e^ 
 
 ^ap{>ed'iip>tn ajgMt quantit]r of fine new clqth»^ ?^Xfi 
 
 covered with a rpotted<k>akotblackand white finther& 
 
 Hefaftsertraiklt attpxided our gentlemen to. the R^elpli^- 
 
 tion, hilt iiould^ft9t be prevaited on to accompany th^ 
 
 on board; beings jperhaps, Ciom a fenfe w decen^y^ 
 
 tiii'vt^lilin^ to be frefcptat the opening of the p^ceK 
 
 '^^fb^nd^itrthkbdndle, both the hands of Qapr 
 
 tliri Cook' entire, which w«re well known tons Jfrom,a 
 
 kkren one of 'th^m, that diiRidad the fore -finger from 
 
 the tkofhby the/ w^ole length of the metaciarj^al bopie;; 
 
 theflLulV but with 4he fca|p,1SBparated fromsit, and the 
 
 bctaesoef the faee wanting;; liie (calp, .with thje <^rs ^4* 
 
 hering to it, and the hair upon it cut fliott ; the^bones 
 
 of both the arms^^ith the ikin of the fore-arms hang- 
 
 kig-to them; the bones of the thighs and 1^9 joined 
 
 together, but without the feet. The ligaments of the 
 
 jdifits were obferved to beentke ; and the whole fliewed 
 
 iuffident marks of having been in the £re^ except the 
 
 hands^ which had the flcSh .remaining upon th^m, and 
 
 were cut in feveral places, and crammed wichialty moft 
 
 probably with a view of preferving thorn* The ft/MJl 
 
 was' free from any fra^hire, bitttheioilp had actt|;|n 
 
 the back part of it. The lower jaw and feet, wfald^ 
 
 were wanting, had been feized, as Eappo informed us, 
 
 hy difierent Frees ; and he alfo told m%, th^ T^(rreeQb90 
 
 was ufing every mean$ to recover them. , >f , f.^; % u>},> 
 
 ; Eappo and the king's ion came on hoard the ne:xt 
 
 inoming, and brought vnth them not only die rfsmain^ig 
 
 hones of Captain Cook, but likewife the barrcjsof his 
 
 gun, his ihoesandfome other trifles which had beloi^ged 
 
 ab him. Eappo ^ured.usi that Terceeoboo, Maiha* 
 
 malhar and himidf were extremely ^lirpus of peace; 
 
 that they had given us the moft convincing proofs of Jt ; 
 
 and that they had been prevented from giving it.fboj^er 
 
 by the^ther chiefs,, many of whom were ftiftdi^fiec- 
 
 ted to us* He lamentfidy with the sf»i^ lively fv^.w, 
 
 th© 4|ath of iix qhiefe, who h^^i«|S9,^lli4j^^}0^r 
 
 ^:k u ^ ^. :^ ^ ^ people* 
 
t J r 
 
 c A 
 
 theout« 
 
 ny thjOT* 
 decency^ 
 parcel* 
 of Capr 
 u fr<mi,a 
 ger frcon 
 pal \>Qjm; 
 f and t}i(e 
 
 tiie^bones 
 xnsbing- 
 g% joiDdd 
 Its of tbe 
 |e (hewed 
 xcept tbe 
 D^iiy and 
 lUt^niflift 
 Tht4u)P 
 d acu^in 
 et, whi^ 
 Sbnnfdus, 
 *frrcepb9q 
 
 ..% 
 
 the next 
 
 itmaia^ig 
 n^sof bis 
 i belonged 
 0, Maiha- 
 of peace; 
 pofsofjt; 
 ? it.foOiOer 
 
 people^ 
 
 A 
 
 iti 
 
 -Uf > r-n^ f:.; 
 
 jkopU ; Mm fi whom, he faid^ t^ amo^ our beft 
 frioids. He infbnned tis^ that thq ciiuer had beenta* 
 ken aw^y by V^xeta^ people>pxobably in revenge fpr 'the 
 Mow that he ha^ received | vid th^t it hi^d been broken 
 «p the following day. the arms of the marine^, ^ibk 
 we had alfo dunanded, had been carried off^ he ^(id; 
 6y the popfihce^ and were irrtcoyerable* 
 
 Nothing now remained^ but to perform t}ie lafl fd^ 
 lemn offices to our excdUent Commander. Eaippb "was 
 difmifled with ordeirt to<^ all the bay; and, in th0 
 afternoon, the boipes tu^vm l^eea dcq^ted.in a qoBHp 
 the funeral (ervice was read over thim, aiid they wbre 
 committed to the dee|^ wlth'^nufnal military honours. 
 Oitf^ ieefinffs, oi^ this mournful occafion, are mbre tsiBXj 
 
 c<m<:iaT<^ uian exprefled* <.;-r«> .^^ ' 
 
 . DuHng the mqrnti^of 0ie lady'not aeadbe Was 
 
 Isen in Ale bay. Th^ tahoo^ which Eappo, at onr de« 
 
 fire^ ha4 ^l<d oh it the, preceding day, not being^ vet 
 
 taken off. At length that chief came off to us. "We 
 
 ^afluroi l^m^ th^i we w^$re how perle6lly fatisfied ; and 
 
 .^i^ylSf^^xfPOro^ was buried, all remembrance of the 
 
 fifiee tnp^ppy hanfa^ibns was buried with him. We 
 
 ,i|DeiW^ds.re!|belled him to take o£F the tahoof and tp 
 
 lid^e it 1(119 wn, that the iflanders might bring iprovi- 
 
 ^fioflisjo^us arufsJiaL The (hips were foon,fucround^ 
 
 Jiwtii caotipeSyi and many df the Erees came on boarcJ, 
 
 expTeffihg TOir grief at what had happened, and their 
 
 ^ fetisfajStion at;, ourfecohciliation; Several of our friend|, 
 
 who'did n<;ft^voiir us" with a vlfit, fent prefents of large 
 
 hog$r3ii^ .o^ Among the rei% the old 
 
 treacheroU? Koah caine off to us, but we refufed him 
 
 admittance. , 
 
 As We w^re now prepared for putting to fea,. Cap- 
 tafi* 9k*'ke imaguiing, that, if the intelligence of our 
 ]^rni:eedin|[s flibuld peach the iflands to leeward before 
 •■'ttS,;'ii' iinght have a bad effe6t^- gave orders, that the 
 ihips &ould be unmoored. About eight in the even- 
 ing, WC ffifmiiied all the natives; and Eappo, and the 
 frmiiiltf.KsMQtke&L, took their leave of us in a very 
 
 O 3 affec- 
 
 
 I ' 
 
 f,: ! 
 
 i.l;i! 
 
 ■'.' 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
•.1"'' ml 
 
 
 i': if: 
 
 11 
 
 f 
 
 U ' h 
 
 .-.. -.-, ^.J. 
 
 m. 
 
 r ..-'> / • •: •• I -^ 1 3 JJ- f 
 
 294 tjd/ A Vfe^itE*^ Vo THE 
 
 affe<^iona« niiitihif/ We immedfately tveighe^ artch^f^ 
 and ftoiod oiit of KaJrjAdakbtia tay. Th^ iflanderg were 
 afl^mbled in jgreul ii6nfiliers bh thefhore; ahd> a^ w^ 
 (aflf4 along, reciiVrfd' 6ur faft" farewels, with evei^ 
 iLatlcdf good-Will atid 4ft^)<m. • • n: 
 
 llavipg cleai^d the latid about ten, w* ftood to tht 
 nprthwarcl, ^ ^Ith a view of fearchihg for an harboury 
 Which t^^ natives hkd often* mentioned, on the fouth- 
 eaft ifrde of Mot^ree^ ' Wef wer^, however, driven t4 
 keward by the curtent iiqd^tti'dhg cafterly winds ; and 
 on't%9 24th pafled a fn^U Barren iiland. named IV 
 
 0)i^ the 2? th, at day'-figtei' we bore away for th» 
 lfiah3 of Atooi, and v ere* ihf ^gjit of it by ndon. 
 
 jpe)i^ anchored m our Qld jfl^ion, iev^ral canoesrcanfui 
 to vijit us; bai it was vtry oblfervable, that there W'as 
 jfidt fhat ap][^^&ran€e of tordialk]^ la theii" tnanlier> and 
 ,cxsi^iiccecicy ib their countenance^ a^ when we (aw 
 Ihembdbie. -^'^-'i.r.l u U- rv ; .r 
 
 lite prirtcipal ob]e^ in yieti^) at this phc^ was to 
 water the Ihips with as mnck expedition as poffible; and 
 Kfr. Khig was fent on (hore in the afternoon) widi ^ 
 launch and pinnate, ladm with caiks* He was acoom- 
 par.ied by the gunner of the Reiblntion) who was in~ 
 um^ed to trade for Ibice provisions ^ 9»d they were 
 &t ended by a gtiard of £v^ marines. Multitudes of 
 pec pie v:>re colfe^led upon the beach, by whom, at 
 fcrf^, we were Itindfy received; but, after we had lan- 
 ded the cafks, they began to be exceedingly trouble-- 
 fbme. They were not only very infolenl in their be- 
 haviour to the watering party, but demanded a hatchet 
 for every cafk we took, - >« 
 
 Som^of them, under pretence of afliftingthe failors^ 
 in rolling the ca^s towards the /here, gave them a 
 cliflerent diredlion ; others ftole the hats from off our 
 people's heads, pulled them backward by the fkirts of 
 their clothes, and tripped up their heels ; the populace, 
 during all this time^ fhouting and laughing, with a 
 mixture of mockery and malice,,- Tbey^ aflpirwards 
 
 t Sf O- ' took 
 
 the 
 
 COUI 
 
 of 
 
 fervl 
 whil 
 
 in 
 
 latij 
 acci 
 At< 
 
» A C I F I C O C E il .,. 295 
 
 took an opportunity of ftealing the cooper's bucket, 
 and forcibly took away his bag. Their principal ain^ 
 however, was to poflefs themfelves of the mulq'uets of 
 the marines, who were continually complaining of tl^ei/ 
 attempts to force them from their hands. Though 
 ihcv, in general, prcfervcd a kind of deference, and if f-, ^ 
 pea for Mr. King, yet they obliged him to contribute 
 his ihare towards their ilock of plunder. One of tl^ero^ 
 approached him in a familiar manner, and diverted liisj 
 attention, whilfl another feized his hanger, which h^ 
 held careledly in his hand, and ran away with it. .y >) 
 
 On the 3d of March, we completed out watfei'ing;^ 
 and, on returning to the fhips, w e were informed, that, 
 feveral chiefs had been on board, and had apologized 
 for the conduiffc of their countrymen, attributing their ^ 
 riotous behaviour to the quarrels then fubfifling among 
 the principal people of the illand, and which liad de- 
 ftroyed all order and fubordination. .^ 
 
 The 4th, 5th, and 6tl], were employed in <^om-, 
 pleting the Difcovery's water. The carpenters were . 
 engaged in caulking the ihips, and preparing for our 
 next cruife. We no longer received any moleilation,, 
 from the Jtiatives, who fupplied us plentifully with pork . 
 and vegetables. . ! 
 
 At nine in the morning of the 8th, we weighed^ and , 
 proceeded towards Oaeehcow, and came to anchor iw: 
 twenty fathoms water, at about three in the afternoon,^ 
 nearly on the fpot where we anchored in 1778. ^ 
 
 Being now oh the point of taking our final leave of , 
 the Sandwich Iflands, we fhall here give a general ac-,, 
 count of their fituation and natural hiftory, as well as^ 
 of the Guftoms and manners of the natives. This will | 
 ferve as a kind of fupplement to the formei; defcription, } 
 which was the/refult of our firft vifit to thefei (lands. 
 
 This group is coppofeci of eleven iflands> extending^ 
 in longitude -from. 199°'36'', to ^05° 6^ eaft, and iu[, 
 latitude from la^ ^54', to 22^ 15' north. Their names,,^^ 
 according to the natives, are, i. Ovvhyhee. 2. Atob/,.^ 
 Atowi, or Tbwif which i& alfo fomctimes called Kowi, v 
 q. Woahod, or Oahbo. "4. Mowee. 5. Morotoi, or;. 
 
 ;i" 
 
 
 O4 
 
 Moro- 
 
I^' ! ■ ;i? 
 
 
 "h^i- 
 
 
 296 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 MorokQi. 6. Oreehoua, or Reehoua, 7. Morotin- 
 6t Morokinnee* 8. Tahobi^. g. 'Ranal^ or 
 
 nee, 
 
 'Oraoai. ' lo, Oneeheow, or Nech^ehow, '' 11. K^how- 
 lovrHei or Tahooit)wa, Tb jfe af e all inhabited^ except 
 \rahod*a'ahdteroti!Mie<5; " i'^.^/r*;. / i..* ^ j. 
 ' '-Captain Gookhatfdifling;uifhed this clufterbf iflands 
 By the mSie of tiie Sahdivich Iflands, in hoflour of the 
 Earl of Sandwich, then fiirft Lord of the Admiralty, un- 
 der whofe adminlftfatioh he had enriched Geography 
 vfiYh fb many yaruaWe difcoveries, ^, V ' V- - 
 
 Owhyhee, the moA eafterly of thefe iflartds, arid b^ 
 far the largefl of them all, is of a triangular figure, 
 and nearly equilateral. The angular points conflitute 
 the northern, fouthern, and eaftem extremities. The 
 circumference of the whole ifland is about 255 geogra- 
 j^hicaT miles, or 293 Englifh ones, Iti breadth is twenty- 
 four leagues ; and its greatefl length, which lies nearly 
 in a north and fbuth dire^ion, is twenty -eight leagues 
 and a balfl ;;--•" .-. 'l-'-'^ ■ \Y <•'. ./C 
 
 We ihall now relate fome particulars refpeSing the 
 interior parts of Owhyhee, from the information we 
 obtainied fr&m a party, who fet out on the 26th of Ja- 
 nuary^ on an expedition up the country. Having* pre- 
 vioufly procured two of the iflanders to ferve them a^ 
 guides, they quitted the village about four o'clcck iin 
 the afternoon. They foon arrived at fome ex'tenilve 
 plantations, confining of the taro or eddy root^ and 
 fweet potatoes, with plants of the doth-tree. • ^^r>i ' 
 
 Our party flopped for the night at the fecond hufc 
 they obferved among the plantations, where they fu^* 
 pofed themfelves to be fix or feven miles diftant from 
 our fhips. The profpciSfc from this fpot was defcribed 
 by them as very delightful: they had a view of owr 
 veflels in the bay before them; to the left they faw a 
 continued range of villages, interfperfed with groves of 
 cocoavnUt trees, fpreading along the ihore; a thidk 
 wood extending itfelf behind them ; and, to the right, 
 a very confiderable extent of ground, laid out with 
 great regularity in well cultivated plaotatiosuf^ displayed 
 itfelf to their view, -: . ^ "n v< i- ' 
 
 »« 
 
Morotin- 
 .anai^ or 
 
 id, except 
 
 of iflands 
 lurof the 
 ralty, un* 
 cography 
 
 5, aitd hf 
 ar figure, 
 conflitute 
 es. The 
 5 gcogra- 
 s twenty- 
 lies nearly 
 It leagues 
 
 fting the 
 lation we 
 >th of Ja- 
 iving^ pre- 
 e them a^ 
 o'clccfc in 
 cxtenfrve 
 root^/and 
 
 scond hut 
 they fu^* 
 ;tant from 
 I defcribed 
 !W of owr 
 [ley faw a 
 , groves of 
 ; a thiek 
 the right, 
 out with 
 , di^yed 
 
 Our 
 
 y^ilil 
 
 •C^tf, 
 
 FA CI TIC OCEAN. 
 
 "-.r.o-;"' 
 
 2^7 
 
 1 Our travellers did Bot obferve a fpot of gf;otu^, th« 
 
 wa^ iufceptible of tniprovement, left unp^iante^ ja^, 
 
 isideed, the country, from their account} t<;quldic^^y 
 
 be cultivated to greater advantagfi^fpr th^ pufpip% pf 
 
 liiec natives. They were (urprifei at feeing i %iral 
 
 fields of htay ; and, upon theif c-jquiry, to^hat;>par,tif 
 
 cular ufe it was applied, they were informetif tb^t /it 
 
 was intenlded to cover the grounds whci^ the^ young 
 
 uiro grew, in order to preferve them from being fcprched 
 
 by the rays of the fun. They obferved, among the 
 
 plantationsy-a few huts fcattered about, which afforded 
 
 occafional ihelter to the labourers: hut they did not fee 
 
 any villages at a greater diftance from the fea than four 
 
 or fiveiTiiles. Near one of them, which was fituated 
 
 about four miles from the bay, they difcovered a cave» 
 
 forty fathoms in lengthy three in breadth, and of the 
 
 fame height. It was open at each end ; its fides were 
 
 fluted, as if wrought with a chifTel, and the furface 
 
 was glazed over, perhaps by the adtion of fire. ' 
 
 '* That which is next in fi'/e, and neaiefl in fituation to 
 
 Owhyhee, is Mowee* It flands at the diftance of eight 
 
 leao^ues north- norrii-wefl from Owhyhee, and is one 
 
 hundred and forty geographical miles in circuit. It i^ 
 
 divided by a low ifthmus into two circular penihfulas, 
 
 of-which that to the eaflward is named Whamadooa, an«l 
 
 k^twke as large as that to the wef:, called Owhy- 
 
 iKx>koo« The mountains in both rife to a very great 
 
 height, as. we were ablato fe&them, ac the difiance of 
 
 o^Kyve thirty leagues*, '^m^^ ^ •' ^^, .*-<«: 
 
 The .countfy. is very romantic in its appearance. 
 
 Tlie: hills rife almai^ perpendicularly, exhibiting a va^ 
 
 liety of .peaked form^; and th&ir fleep fides, as well as 
 
 the ikepxha&iisi)etweei:i . tbem, are covered with treevS 
 
 :toi3Hg3,'^lliDiii.th»feho£rthti bread -frwit;., prineip^^ly 
 
 abofandi ; 3<h§rutt^mits of thde hills, areperfo^^ly bare, 
 
 aiida&direddi&jbrQwn'hiiiet. ; i .?«:•« ^ >r;fiAiy«*:^\'>«>^ 
 
 . iRauar) iiiabo4it ; nine m iles diflant from Mowee ind ' 
 
 Mo«iJoi,raflDdiis:rittQtfijtorvthe fouth-weftof the paflage 
 
 between tliofe two ifles. The country, towards the 
 
 fouth, is eleyated and craggy; but the other parts of the 
 
 O 5. ' iilam\. 
 
 
 m 
 
 I' 
 
 !! 
 
 !:.^ 
 
 n- 1*1 
 
 iia 
 
 I* 
 
 :|4<i 
 
'W- 
 
 11; 
 
 ,1 
 
 ti 
 
 <i 
 
 :) 
 
 
 
 *V^* 
 
 I' :' 
 
 i; I 
 
 
 
 
 298 . A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 iiland had abetter appearance, and feemed to be well 
 inhabited* It abounds in roots, fuch as fweet potatoes, 
 ton?, and yams; but produces very few plantains, and 
 bread- fruit trees. 
 
 Morotoiiies at the diftance of two leagues and a half 
 to the weft*north-weft of Mowee. Yams are its prin- 
 cipal produce ; and it may pfobably contain fiefh water. 
 The coafl, on the fouthern and weftern fides of the 
 ifland, forms feverai bays, that promife a tolerable 
 ihelter from the trade winds. 
 
 Tahourowa is a fnaall ifland fltuated ofF the fouth- 
 weftern part of Mowee, from which it is nine miles 
 ^0ant, It is deflituteof wood, and its foil feems to be 
 iandy and unfertile. Between it rnd ''fowee flands the 
 little jilandofMorrotinnee, which ui ^j inhabitants. 
 
 Woahoo lies about feven leagues to the north- wefl of 
 Morotor. As far as we were enabled to judge, from 
 the appe»rante of the north- weflern and north-eaflern 
 parts (for we had not an opportunity of feeing the 
 fisuthern fide) it is by far the finefl of ill the Sandwich 
 tilands. The verdure of the hills, the variety of wood 
 and lawn, and fertile, well-cultivated vallies, which the 
 whole face of the country prefented to view, could not 
 be exceeded^ 
 
 Atooi is about twenty-five leagues to thp nrMjh-weft 
 of Woahoo. Towards the north-eafl anr^ j ±-wefl, 
 the face of the country is ragged and broken , mt, to 
 the fouthward, it is more even ; the hills rife from the 
 fea-fide with a gentle acclivity, and, at a little diflancb 
 b&ck^ are covered with wood. Its produce is the fame 
 with that of the other iflands of this clufler ; but its 
 inliabitants greatly excel tlie people of all the neigh^' 
 bourtng iflands inthe management of thcr plantations. 
 Oneeheow is five or fix leagues to thi wef^w?%rd of 
 Atooi* Its eaflern coafl is high, and rifes with abrupt*- 
 nefs from the fea; but the other parts of the ifland 
 ooiififl of low ground, except a round bluff head on 
 the fbuth-eaf.;ern point. It produces plenty of yams» 
 jMid of the fweet root called tee. 
 
 The climate of the. Sandwich Ifles is, perhaps, ra- 
 ther 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN, 
 
 299 
 
 be Well 
 
 )tatoes, 
 
 uns, and 
 
 [nd a half 
 its prin- 
 Ifh water. 
 Is of the 
 tolerable 
 i 
 e fouth- 
 line miles 
 ims to be 
 bnds the 
 bitants, 
 i-weft of 
 ge, from 
 h-eaftern 
 ieing the 
 Jandwich 
 of wood 
 vhich the 
 :ould not 
 
 'ith-weft 
 ±-weft, 
 
 'nity to 
 From the 
 diftancfe 
 che fame 
 
 but its 
 ; neigh'' 
 itations. 
 ivitrd of 
 abrupt*- 
 ; ifland 
 head on 
 ■ yarns* 
 
 ips, ra- 
 ther 
 
 ther more temperate than that of the Weft-India iflands, 
 which are in the fame latitude^ but the diiference.is 
 very inconfiderable. 
 
 'Ihere was a greater quantity of rain, particularly 
 in the interior parts, during the four winter months 
 that we coniinueA among thefe iflanders, than com- 
 monly falls in the Weft-Indies in the dry feafon. 
 
 With refpedl to the quadrupeds of thefe iflands, they 
 are confined to three forts, namely, hogs, dogs, and 
 rats. The dogs are of the fame fpecies with thofe we 
 law at Otaheite, having pricked ears, long backs, and 
 fhort crooked legs; but it did not appear that the dogs 
 in the Sandwich Iflands were near fo numerous, in pro- 
 portion, as at Otaheite. They have a muck greater 
 quantity of hogs, and the Breed is of a larger kindt 
 
 The birds of thefe iflands are numerous, though th? 
 variety is not great. Some of them may vie with thofe 
 of any country ia point of beauty.. 
 
 The vegetable produce of the Sandwich Ifles is not 
 very different from that of the othec iflands of the Pa- 
 cific Ocean. 
 
 The natives of the Sandwich Ifles are doubtlefs of 
 the fame extra'Slion with the inhabitants of the Friendly 
 and Society Iflands, of New-Zealand, .the Marquefas, 
 and Eafter Ifland; a race which poflTefles all the known 
 lands between the longitudes of 167^ and 260° eaft, 
 and between the latitudes of 47^ fouth, and 22*^ north. 
 This fad^, extraordinary ^s it is, is not only evinced by 
 the general refemblance of their perfons, and the great 
 fimilarity of their manners and cuftoms, but feems to 
 be eftabliflied, beyond all controverfy, by the. identity of 
 their language. / '^ . > '• 
 
 The Sandwich Iflanders, in general, exceed the mid- 
 dle fize, and are well made They/ walk in a very 
 graceful manner, run with confiderable agility, and are 
 capable of enduring a great degtee of fatigue: but, up- 
 on the whole, the men are inferior/ W i til refpe6l to ac- 
 tivity and ftrength, to the irihabitant«ft)£ the .Friendly 
 Iflands, and the woment are Icfs delicate' irt the^ forma- 
 tion of their limbs thanitheOcaHeitearijfemalev Tlieir 
 
 O 6 * completion 
 
 ^ 
 
 ',;''. 
 
 
 i.%n 
 
 ,0,"] 
 
 ' '<'• 
 
 
 ■ii^ 
 
 
 m 
 
 
300 
 
 A YOYAGE TO THE 
 
 
 tjf 
 
 '■a :i 
 
 
 mv 
 
 
 
 comple6lion is fomewhat darker than that of the Ota- 
 heiteans ; and they are not altogether fo handfoma in 
 their perfons as the natives of the Society Ifles. Many 
 of both fexes, however, had fine open countenances; 
 and the women, in particular, had white, well-fet teeth, 
 good eyes, and an engaging fweetnefs and fenfibiixty 
 of look. 
 
 J The fame fuperiority that we generally obferved at 
 other iflands in the perfons of the Ereesy is likewife 
 found here. Thofe that were feen by us were perfedily 
 well formed; whereas the lower clafs of people, befides 
 their general inferiority, are fubjedt to all the variety of 
 ^ ure and make, that is met with in the populace of 
 *t. aer parts of the workl. r . 
 
 .. It mu ft be acknowledged, notwithilanding the great 
 iofs we fuftained from the jfudden refentment and vio- 
 lence of thefe iflanders, that they are of a very mild 
 and aiFe6lionate difpofition, equally remote from the 
 diftant gravity and referve of the natives of the Friend- 
 ly Ifles, and the extreme volatility of the Otaheiteans. 
 I'hey feem to live in the greateft friendship and hafr 
 mony with ( acli other. Thofe women who had chil- 
 diien, fhewed a remarkable afFedtion for them, and paid 
 them a particular and coiif^ant attention ; and the men, 
 with a willingnefs that did honour to their feelings, fror 
 quently afforded their afliftance in thofe domeilic em- 
 ployments. W« muft, however, remark, that they are 
 greatly inferior to the inhabitants of the other i^ands, 
 ill that heft criterion of civilized manners, the r.^fpedt 
 paid to the female fex. Here the women are nqt only 
 de|>riv€d of the privilege of eating with the men, but 
 are forbidden to feed on the beft forts of provjfions. 
 Turtle, pork, feveral kijids of hfth and fome fpecies of 
 plantains, sire <lenied them; and we Ijyere informed,, 
 that a girl received a violent beating, for having eaten,^ 
 while ihe was on board one of our fhips, a prohibited 
 article of food. With regard to their domeftic life, 
 they feem to live almoft wholly by themfelves, and 
 meet with little attentioo from the men, though no 
 inAancei of perfonal iU-tiesitment were obferved by us. 
 
 Thefe 
 
PACIFIC OCEAH. 
 
 3cli 
 
 Thefe people, in point of natural capacity, are by no 
 means below the common ftandard of the human race: 
 The excellence of their iiianufadlures, and their im- 
 provements in agriculture, are doubtlefs adequate to 
 their fituation and natural advantages. The eagern^f$ 
 of curiofity, with which they ufed to attend the ar- 
 mourer's forge, and the various expedients which they 
 had invented, even before our departure from thel0 
 illands, for working the iron obtained from us, into 
 fuch forms as were beft calculated for their purpofes, 
 were ftrong indications of docility and ingenuity. ^^ V. 
 
 It is highly probable, that the pra6lice of feeding on 
 the bodies of enemies, was originally prevalent in all 
 the iflands of the Pacific Ocean, though it is not 
 known, by pofitive and decifive evidence, to exift in 
 any of them, except New-Zealand. The offering up 
 human vidtims, which is manifeftly a relique of thif 
 barbarous cuAom, ftill univerfally obtains among thefe 
 iflanders ; and it is not difficult to conceive why the 
 inhabitants of New-Zealand fhould retain the repaft, 
 which was, perhaps, the concluding part of thefe hor- 
 rid rites, for a longer period than the reft of their 
 tribe, who were fituated in more fertile regions. As 
 the Sand^yich iflanders, both in their perfons and dif- 
 pofition, bear a nearer refemblance to the Ncw-Zea- 
 landers, than to any other people of this veryextenfive 
 race, Mr. Anderfon was ftrorigly inclined to fufped^, 
 that, like them, they are ftill cannibals. ' i^ - 
 
 Tlie SandwK:h iflanders, almoft univerfally^ p^rihit 
 their beards to grow. There were, however, a few 
 who cut off their beard ^ntirely,' among whom iVais the 
 aged ' king ; and' others wore it only 6h ' their tip{)er lid* 
 The fan;ie variety thatis folind amokig the other iflancters 
 of thik o<i:ean; with refjiea to i]ie mod^ of wearil^g the 
 hairi'ft; llkewife'pK^vabi^ heri.'^^ Sdfi^Kof - triem ^fear 
 gr^iit quantities1bf;fyife jiairT'SiwiiiA ift long i^^lets 
 down thejrbicksl; while oth'eh't^e it iiito' one round 
 bunch on the upper part of their lieads, nearly a-s large 
 as the head itfelf; and fbme ^lito fix orfeven feparate 
 bunches, Thfcy iife, fdf th^'^purpofe^of daubing or 
 , _ ... fmearing 
 
 M 
 
 If,; 
 
 4,1,,' 
 
 '*: 
 
 m 
 
 '.i : 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 mi 
 
':'i 
 
 kH 
 
 u 
 
 $62 A VOYAGE TO THU 
 
 fmearing their hair, a greyifti clay, mixed V'!th flidls 
 Fcduced to ponder, which they keep in balls, and chew 
 into a Ibrt of pafte, whenever they intend to make 
 tife of it. This compolition prelerves the ImoothneCs 
 of the hair, and changes it, in procefs of time, to a 
 pafe yellow. 
 
 Necklaces, confifting of firings of fraall variegated 
 fiiells, are worn by both men and women. They alfo 
 wear an ornament, about two inches in length, and half 
 an inch in breadth, ihaped like the handle of a cup> 
 and made of ftone, wood, or ivory, extremely well 
 poliflied : this is hung round the neck by fine threads 
 of twifted hair, which are fometimes doubled an hun- 
 dred fold. Some of them, inftead of this ornament,; 
 wear a fmall human figure on their breaftj formed of 
 bone, and fufpended in a fimilar manner. 
 
 Tlie practice of tatooing, or pundluring the body, 
 prevails among thefe people; anJd, of all the iflands ii?. 
 this ocean, it is only at New-Zealand, and the Sand- 
 wich Ifles, that the face is tatooed. 
 ' The common drefs of the men of all ranks confijftsy 
 in general, of a piece of thick rloth called the maroy^ 
 about a foot in breadth, which pafles between the legs,, 
 and is faftened round the waiil. Their mats, which 
 are of various fizes, but, for the moll part,* about five 
 feet in length, and four in breadth, are thrown Qver 
 tlieir flioulders, and brought ibrward before. Thefe,, 
 however, are rarely made ufe of, except in time of 
 war: for which purpofe tliey appear to be better cal- 
 culated than for commoa ufe, fmce they are of a thick, 
 heavy texture, and capable of breaking the blow of a^ 
 ftone, or of any blunt weapon. Tliey generally go 
 bare-footed, except when they travel over burnt flones, 
 on. which occafion they fecure their feet v/ith a kind of 
 fandal,. which is made of cords, twifled from, eocour. 
 nut fibres. 
 
 Befides their ordinary drefs, there is another, whick 
 is appropriated to their chiefs, and worn only on ex- 
 traordinary occafions. It confifts of a feathered cloak 
 and cap, or helmet, of uncommon beauty and magni- 
 
 ficence* 
 
\ 
 
 r A c 1 n C O C fe A k. 
 
 303 
 
 ficence. This drefs having been minutely defcribed, in 
 a former part of onr work, we have only to add, that 
 thefe cloaks are of different lengths, in proportion to 
 the rank of the perfon who wears them ; fome trail- 
 ing on the ground, and others no lower than the mid- 
 dle. 
 
 They dwell together in fmall towns or villages, 
 which contain from about one hundred to two hun- 
 dred houfes, built pretty clofe to each other, without 
 order or regularity, and have a winding path that leads 
 through them. They are frequently flanked, towards 
 the fea-fide, with loofe detached walls, which are, in 
 all probability, intended for fhelter and defence. They 
 are of various dimenfions, from forty-five feet by 
 twenty-four, to eighteen by twelve. Some are df 1ft 
 larger fize, being fifty feet in length, and thirty ih 
 breadth, and entirely open at one end, Thefe, we 
 were informed, were defigned for the accommocl tiori 
 of ftrangers or travellers, whofe ftay was likely to be 
 fhort. ^«^* % ^i^A^ *^i*^ 
 
 The people of an inferior clafs feed principally on 
 fifh and vegetables, fuch as plantains, bread-fruitj^ 
 Iweet potatoes, fugar-canes, yams, and taro* To thefi^, 
 perfons of fuperior rank add the flefh of dogs and hogi, 
 drefled after the fame method that is pra6tifed at the So- 
 ciety Ifles. They likewife eat fowls of a domeftic kin^,^ 
 which, however, are neither plentiful, nor, in any great* 
 degree of eftimation. ^^* ^ ' ^^^' -*^>?^^ 1 v;**.*^^* 
 - They fait their fiih, and preferve them in goiutl-* 
 ihells; not, indeed, with a view of providing againft 
 an occafional fcarcity, but from the inclination th^y 
 have for falted provifions ; for we alfo found, that the 
 chiefs frequently had pieces of pork pickled in the fame 
 manner^ Which they confidered as a great delicacy* 
 Their cookery is much the fame as at the Friendly 
 and Society Wands; and though fome of our people 
 difliked their tar<i' puddings, on account of their four- 
 lefs, others were ot a different opinion, •• 
 
 i- They tire very cleanly in their meals; and. their me- 
 thod or drefling both, their vegetable and animaL food,.^ 
 
 >.| \j was 
 
 ■:;■ 1;: 
 
 i' 
 
 a I 
 
 11 
 
 ,!5' 
 
 f A 
 
 rr" 
 
 \m\ 
 
 
 '^:.\ 
 
VOYAGE 
 
 TO 
 
 THE 
 
 
 wa^juniv^rfally acknowledged to be fuperior tooyr's*, 
 The* JSrjies conilantly begin their meals with a dpfq pf 
 t^ext!ra6t of j^pper-root^ or avay prepared in the ufp^ 
 laede.^'! 
 
 ^T>{iey generally rife with the fun; and, after, haiv^ing 
 enjoyed the cool of the evening, retire to their repofe 
 a^wihout^ after fun-fet^ The £rees are occupied in 
 ciaking canoes and mats; the Towtows are chiefly (^< 
 ployed in the plantations, and alfo in fiihing.; and the 
 Women are engaged in the manufadlure of cloth. 
 They amufe themfelves, in their leifure hours, with va- 
 rious diverfions. Their young perlbns, of both fcxesj 
 inre fond of dancing ; and? on more folemn occaiions^ 
 fhey entertain themfelves with wrefUing and boxing 
 msitches, performed after the manner of the natives of 
 the Friendly Illands; to whoni, ' however, they are 
 gteatly inferior in all thefe refpedls. 
 
 The mufic of thefe people is of a rude kind; for the 
 oiUy muAcal inftruments that we obferved among them^ 
 ^ere drums of various fizes. Their fongs, however, 
 iRFhiqh they are faid to fing in parts, and which they 
 acoompany with a gentle motion of their arms, like 
 tile inhabitants of the Friendly I0ands, have a very 
 pkafing effetS^. 
 
 They are greatly addi<5ked to gambling. One of their 
 glines rofembles our game of draughts ; but, from th^ 
 ovmberof fquare$> it i'eemstobe much more intncate^ 
 Xkt board is of the length of abom two feet, and i^ 
 4tvfded into two hundred and thirty-eight fqipares,; 
 fourteen in a row. In this game they ufe bUck an^- 
 wKite pebbles, which they move from one (quare to ano^ 
 ther. Another of their game$ coni&ils in coofiealing % 
 Aone under fome cloth* which is.fpreadout.bv pipie^.rof 
 the parties, and rumpled in fuch a m^r^g^gr, ^^t it 4s 
 difhcuit to diftinguifh where t)ip ftvoe lies. Il'h/? antat 
 gonift thenftrikes, with a ftick, that pact of;^l^,jsfe|thi 
 where he fuppofes tlie Hone to be; and th^,<:hai^^be- 
 ing, upon the whole, againfl^ his hitting; ij,: od4f of d^l^ 
 degrees, varying with tlv opinipn of tKc: d^&t.Qri|y ^f 
 
 thi& pai^ties, are laid oa tat occafijon* , ^ , 
 
 They 
 
n 
 
 ■JACIPIC OCE AN. 
 
 [adpfq pf 
 the ufM^ii 
 
 : ;••'•• 
 
 ;ir repofc 
 
 [cupied in. 
 liefly e^in. 
 
 and the 
 |of cloth, 
 with va- 
 loth fcxesj 
 occasions) 
 d boxing 
 natives of 
 they are 
 
 d; for the 
 ong thenij^ 
 however, 
 hich they, 
 arnis> like 
 ve a very 
 
 ne o|*theic 
 from th^ 
 ; iiitiricate^ 
 !et, ami U 
 t fqiiares^ 
 Hack andi: 
 ire to ano^- 
 ifceaJjng ^. 
 
 fkfit it -is 
 \ h^ antat 
 
 laiK^^be* 
 M$ of call 
 airily 9f 
 
 They. 
 
 30^ 
 
 .They often entertain themfelvcs with races !)etwcen 
 1)oyt and j^rls; on which occafions they lay wagers 
 with great fpirit. We faw a man beating his brea^i 
 and tearing his hair, in the violence of rage, for having 
 loft three hatches at one of thcfe races, which he had 
 purchafed from us with neaf half his property a very III- 
 tie time before. 
 
 Both fexies are furprifingly expert in fwnmning^ 
 which, among thefe people, is not only deemed a necei^ 
 fary art, but is alfo a favourite diverfion. One parth*^ 
 ^ular method, in which we fometimes faw them amufe 
 themfelves with this exercife, in Karakakooa bay^ dfe-i 
 ferves to be related. The furf, that breaks on the coaft 
 round this bay, extends about one hundred and fihff 
 yards from the fhore ; and, within that fpace, the furge^ 
 of the fea are dafhed againft the beach with extreme 
 violence. Whenever the impctuofity of the fwf is 
 augmented to its greateft height, they make choi6e of 
 that time^ for this amufement, which they perform iii 
 the following manner. About twenty or thirty of the 
 iflihders take eich a long, narrow board, rounded a€ 
 both ends, and fer out from the fhore in compan^^ 
 with each other. They plunge under the firft wave 
 they meet, and, after they have fuffered it to r<41 ov0p 
 them, rife again beyond it, and (wim farther out "info* 
 rfie fea. They encounter the fecond wave in thefimei 
 ihanner with the firft. The principal difBcultyconfiftsi 
 irtfeiiing a fovourable opportunity of diving under >t|; 
 fSrjaf a peHlto mifl*es the proper moinent, he iicaiagJlt 
 bf' the fui-f, and forced back with great violence ^^»n4 
 his utmoft dexterity is then required, to prevent ilkil^ 
 being daihcd againft the rocks. Wheil> in confequenfee 
 pf tfefe repeated efforts, they have gained the fmooth 
 water beyond the furf, they recline themfelves at length 
 upon thWr board, and prepare for their return to fhore. 
 As' the' furf is compofed of a number of waves, of 
 which every third is obferved to be confiderahly larger 
 than tfcui reft,'rind to flow highei" upon the fhord, wfile 
 the othtt'S break m the intermediate fpace, their; firft 
 otjcdt'W to place themfelves on the top of the largeft 
 
 M^'. 
 
 kj.. 
 
 f 
 
 1.1 'ji 
 
 
 Wmi 
 If 
 
 v'v: .' 
 
SP6 ▲ , y O Y A C E TO T H k 
 
 furge, which drives them along with aftonifliing rapi- 
 dity towards the Jand. If they fhould place them- 
 ftlves, by miftake, on one of the fmaller waves, which 
 breaks before they gain the (hore, or fhould find thein^ 
 felves unable to keep their board in ^ proper dired^icn 
 on the upper part of the fwell, they remain expofed 
 to the fury of the next ; to avoid which, they are under 
 the neceifity of diving again, and regaining the place 
 whence they fet out* Thofe perfons who fucceed in 
 their objed^ of reaching the ihore, are ftill in a very 
 hazardous fituation. As the coail is defended by a 
 chain of rocks^ with a fmall opening between them In 
 feyeral places, they are obliged to ileer their plank 
 through one of thefe openings ; or, in cafe of ill fuc- 
 cefs jn t;hat refpeft, to q^it it before they reach the 
 rocks, and, diving under the wave, make their way 
 back again as wellas they are able. This is coniidered 
 a« highly difgraccful, arid is attended with the lofs qi 
 tl^vplank, which we have feen daih^d to pieces, at the 
 very infant the native quitted it. The amazing cou- 
 rage s\nd addrefs, wi^h which tliey perform thefe dange- 
 rous manoeuvres, are almoft incredible. 
 
 Their method of agriculture, as well as navigation, 
 nei^mhles that of the other iflands of the Pacific 
 Qjcean. ' They have made confiderable proficiency in 
 ibui|ture^ and their '^ill in p^uiiting or flaining cloth, 
 and in the manufa6lure of mats, is very great. The 
 moft curious fpecimens of their fculpture, that we had 
 an opportunity of obferving, were the wooden bowls, 
 in which the Frees drink az'a» Thefe are, in general, 
 eight or ten inches in diameter, perfedlly round, and 
 extre^nely well poliflied. They are fupportfd by three 
 or four fmall human figures, reprefented in different^ 
 attitudes. Some of them reft on the ihoulders of their 
 fupporters ; others on the hands, extended oyer tK;e^ 
 head; and fome on the head and hands. The figures are 
 very neatly finifhed, and accurately proportioned i ,^p4: 
 even the anatomy of > tlie mufcles is well exprefled. ' " 1 ' 
 
 Their fifiiing-hooks are of various fizes and figures ; 
 hut thofe which are principally made ufe ofj are ajbout 
 
 tw® 
 
ling rapi- 
 |cc them* 
 !s, which 
 |nd them*» 
 dired^ion 
 expofed 
 J are under 
 [the place 
 icceed in 
 a very 
 ?d hj a 
 thcna in 
 ir plank 
 f ill fuc- 
 each the 
 heir waj 
 
 :onfidered. 
 be lofs Qi^ 
 es^ at the 
 iing cou- 
 ?ie dan^e-^ 
 
 tvigation, 
 e Pacific 
 :iency in 
 ng clotli, 
 at. The 
 It we had 
 in bowls^^ 
 I general,' 
 mid, and 
 by three 
 d liferent^ 
 i of thtiir 
 3yer iti^^ 
 g^iires ai-e 
 ed ; aqd 
 
 Rid. ":;^.^^ 
 
 figures;, 
 re about 
 tw» 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 \ 
 
 3^7 
 
 two or three inches in length, and are formed in the 
 fhape of a (mail fifh, ferving as a bait, with a bunch of 
 feathers faflened to the head or tail. They make their 
 hooks of bone, mother-of-pearl, or wood, pointed aiid 
 barbed with little bones or tortoife-fhell. Thofe witb 
 wliich they fifh for (harks, are very large, being, in .ge- 
 neral, of the length of fix or eight inches. Confider-r 
 ing the materials of which thefe hooks are compofed, 
 their neatnefs and (Irength are amazing ; and, indeed^* 
 upon trial, we found them fuperior to our own. < * Ijy:, 
 ' Of the bark of the touta, or cloth-tree, neatly twi(Fr^d, 
 they ' form the line which they ufe for £(ning> £ot 
 making nets, and for fome other purpofes. ^ t. u:i^it. 
 The warlike weapons of thefe people ai'e daggei^k"^ 
 tfhich they cill by the name pahooa ; fpears, flings, and' 
 cliabs. The pahcoa is made of a black heavy woo% 
 that'refembles eboiiy. It is commonly from onrtdo 
 two feet in length; and has a (Iring paifing thro3l;}if 
 the handle by which it is fufpended to the anTi«i ^&h> 
 blad^ is fomewhat rounded in the middle; the (ides 9ii 
 fluufp, and terminate in a point. This inftrument i|.iD»^ 
 tended for clo(e engagements ; and, in the handf ofrtfat 
 nativesi is a very de(tru6tive one. ^ ^'>/ .% 
 
 Their (pears are of two kinds, and are formed of ^ 
 hard wootj^ which, in its appearance, is hot unlik^niBa- 
 hogany. One fort is from fix to eight feet in lengthy 
 well polifhed, and increafing gradually in thickntft' 
 from the extremity till within the diftariice of (ix ofc 
 (even inches from the point, which tapers fuddehly, 
 and has five or fix rows of barbs. It is probable that 
 thefe are ufed in the way of javelins. The other fort, 
 with which the warriors we faw at Atooi and Owhy- 
 hee were chiefly armed,' are from twelve to fifteen feet 
 in length; and, 'infteasd of being barbed, terminate, to- 
 wards the point in themannei of their daggers. . ^^^ 
 Their flings are the fame with our common flings,' 
 except in this refped, ' that the (tone is lodged on mat- 
 ting inflead of leather. Their clubs are formed indif- 
 ferently of feveral kinds, of wood: they are of various 
 fixes and (hd|)e«'^t>of r«de workmanlhip* -o.^ 
 '^: .J la 
 
 I 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 V 
 
 1:1 
 
 
1 1 
 
 n \ -^ 
 
 •) A l 
 
 w 
 
 r 
 
 I , 
 
 
 M 
 
 3pS ^A VOYAGE TO THp 
 
 In tlie Sandwich IflandS) th« inhahkanci aur e dividtd 
 into tiirce chdBuB. The A^i^ or chiefs ^f each diftri^) 
 ate the firft; and one of thtre it iupevioT tp the reft^ 
 K^ho if called, at^ Owh^ieet Era-tahh and Mrt0MM\ 
 liie.firA name e^preffing his aothoritVi and the^lattei 
 iignify^g thati.in hit piefencei all m^ft pioArafe then^ 
 ielwe&i jThpfe.o^ the feoond daft appear to enjoy a 
 light or properly, bvt have no authority. Thofe who 
 cooH>Qfe the.thirdi elais^ aie caUed ttm^ws^ or iei;vant|, 
 and have not either raok or propeiit]f« - v, j^; , ,- j, 
 
 Th»X«pefior power and diAin^tionof Terreeoboo, 
 4«i Efee; taboo of Owhyhee^ ^qa I^Bcjiently evidc^l 
 fpou) hfs .reception, at K?rakakooa^ On his fijr» ariifival. 
 'jRipfitink^itantil^ adlpfoftnited themfelves at thf» en- 
 
 l^rc^ their haufe»; and the canoes were taho^ till 
 
 jifchaiged the. int«rdi£l» He wat then juA returned 
 fcMoni|ee> an ifliand he wat contending for^jn bc^ 
 «f; h^ ion TeewanrOi whoT wi£» wa^ ; the p^ilf 
 1^ of the kifig of that plac< xainft Taheeteriee> 
 )p[|i!C^rvlgra)g brodie«« In tJ^s enpeditioav he was jkf:^ 
 MnM Wr nany qf his warriors; b^( we cqi^ld Vk^^p^ 
 lUlte Jlhi^to: they ^ved him a^ vohinteers^' 4^ 
 whether, ^ney held tlieir rarjc and property by th^ 
 
 iJX'hel^l;|b^£Ml4iQst^<^^i6& are tribvtjury toKim^ is 
 
 oM^ndy^p|roYed la the inAance of K^oc^ wl^kh h?^ 
 hem 7m»Siff raited* It has ai^ beei^ obferyed, that 
 tl^,^Q n^te poiver6;d chiefs of the I^Ma4M^ich Ifl^^l^ 
 aiip»Xm«ot»og^ and ]?er;eeiorani^^; tbe^ formr^^^t^^ 
 Ak£ of'Owhyhee? and the latter of Woahoo; all the 
 iinato illesbdng governed by oneof thefe Ipvereignsf 
 Mowce wasj) pit this tiine> claii^f4 by Terreeoboo, fos 
 his f^vk and intended fitqceflToi?;; Atooi and Oi^MheoMr 
 h»ng yik thr poflEbfton^f tli^ fcaiulfpns of Perip^e^f^ 
 
 rannee^. ,; / M'ic-i^l. j--.d . ... ; ^-^ ,:':..; ,-,-^-j^ 
 ,The ,£r/<4 appear to havt wuwted P^wer over the 
 inferior cl^iSi^s of people ; mm$ inftances of which oc* 
 cnrred daily wfculift wecontiiiiied aaior^ thei^ On thl 
 other hand>. the peof^! am tmplieitll obedient. It is 
 remarkablci howeYet* tfeit W9 imerl^ the chiefs ex« 
 
 ercife 
 
rACiriC OCEAN, 
 
 divided 
 :hdiftriai 
 • the mfti 
 
 tlieJsittar 
 -af^ thea^ 
 > enjoy SI 
 hofe who 
 r if ifvantf, 
 
 I 
 
 SIFTWoboOy 
 
 Qvidtoi 
 
 ari^ival* 
 
 t t^ «n- 
 
 A returnjod 
 
 f : ihe Q;ily 
 aheeM^rm» 
 ^e was iij:r 
 pi^ld «f ,w 
 
 Y ^ ifeMJ 
 
 to him, is 
 vvbj^ich, 1^^ 
 ryed, th^t 
 
 )o; all the 
 pvereignsi 
 eoboo> fbf 
 Oijieeheovr 
 
 IT' Qvef the 
 which 9C« 
 b On t^ 
 
 IQt. It tl 
 
 chiefs ax« 
 ercife 
 
 30^ 
 
 Ercife any afts oF croclty,' injuftice, or infolci^ce to- 
 ^ifdi'them; tfiough they pilt in praftice theH*p6wcr 
 dver eich other, in a moft tyrannical degree : Which ti 
 fUMy proved t>y the two following inAancet. - ' : •;♦* 
 v>Ohc of the lower order of chiefs, having Ihewn 
 ^t%at cWillty tathe mafter of the ihip, on his examine 
 tft>hof Karakakooa Bay; Mr« King, fome timeaftei^ 
 W^dSjtook liim on board the Refolmion^ and ihtiW^ 
 dticed hiht to Captain Cook, who engaged him to dine 
 •t^th'ias. -While we remained at table,' Pareei entered, 
 whofe countenance aianifeiled the higheft indignatibh 
 at feeing our gueft fo honourably entertainecL . He 
 fei^ed him by the hair of the head, and womM have 
 dragged him out of the cabin, if the Captain had n^ 
 ititemred. After much altercation, we could ^hcibi 
 ho other indulgence (without quarrelling wtthPiaieM 
 than that our guefi (hould be permitted to remain il 
 the cabin, on condition that he feated himfidf ^ Hie 
 fioor, while I'areea occupied hit place at tfte* tjwL 
 An inftance, fomewhat fimilar, happened whbn IPt^'*^ 
 teeobck) came firfl on board the Refc^ntiofl^ inpibtar 
 Maiha-^tnaiha, who attended him, ieein^ Tatee^'nd^^ 
 
 ^k; turnedbim mcift ignominiouQy out of thiS'ifm^ 
 efi^ ^ou|;h we knew Pateea to be* a iiiait df thi^Mi 
 confequenee. .' '^:':*' 
 
 ' Whether ^die lower clafr have their ^ptdpMtjr^ieeii^lii^ 
 fron^ the rapacity of> the great^chie£^ we imnbt ,cei>-' 
 tiiinly &y, but it ^qppeait to be well' ptoteded )%di|b 
 theft an^l 'dg;rre&tlon. Ail' tUeir phnt^tiant> xiiMr 
 ^dM^,^3(^ir hog^iaiid their cfc)th,"!aie 4e3t^iztigimasd4^ 
 i^lthbtttfeap or apprehenfion. f; In ihr plain QOnQtm^ 
 Iheynf^ailate their poieffions.fjbyftal!ir;ian$ itr nie 
 %^6odr'wKeri herib^pl^ntai^si^9f,'jllie^rufe wh^ flags 
 €0 diferinjffeiatte property, Mm /the fame liaimei- as thj^ 
 ^bP-bohehes of leaves it Gtaherte/Thcfe ciiru^iAaiiciQi 
 ftronglyiindicate, thal;^ where . property is coDCsrQ^ 
 Vk t^er 1^ the mf^ i^^^bt arhit^ar)^ ; bufc fo ftr li^ 
 Hiked, as toi afford eriiouragement to the inferior otdtt^ 
 «bituitivaterlife folli^'^4u*thcy?ocdjpy diflfoa ftom 
 
 lyfft ^-;::.-) Cifj ';j^ TCY?;*^^ i..! ,:'•-. rv.v-..: -J >Their 
 
 1 ':^'ti 
 
 
 11' ■ 
 
 r^ 
 
 ■!■}■■* i 
 
 aM 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
'310 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 n-^f (fit. 
 
 '■i't 
 
 ?:^ 
 
 Their religion refembles that of the Society and 
 c Friendly lilands. In common With each other^ they 
 "rhave-ali their Morais, their fVhattaSy their facred fongs, 
 and their iacri£ces. Thefe are convincing proofs that 
 ^their religious opinions are derived from the fame 
 -Iburce. The ceremonies here are, indeed, longer, and 
 -more numerous than in the iilands above mentioned. 
 yVfldi tibough; in all theft; places, the caiie and- per- 
 iformance of their religious rites is committed to a par- 
 ticular clafs of peop}.e ; yet we had never found a regular 
 fociety of prieils, till we arrived at Kakooa, in Karaka- 
 'Icooa .Say* *i.'*^:.!!v tf'f't'sj''''. v.*^ f^t '%\»t\y ♦t.*^. '^^.'f.^^'S- -,. 
 
 ^'^^^^Tfee prayers and o^erings made by the priefts before 
 - their meals, may be claffed among their religious cere- 
 •inoniesw As they » always drink at'« before they begin 
 Itheiri^epafl, whilil that is chewing, the fuperior In rank 
 i^begans a fort of hymn, in which he is foon aft ef joined 
 Mj one Qr:«a6re of the company; the bodies of the 
 •msBTs are put in motion, and their hands are gently 
 ^claipped. together in concert with the fingers. The 
 iimfir^Ctng ready,' cup^ df it are prefented to thofe who 
 :^]not joinin:theh)(mn> which are held in their han^ 
 ;tillt1itj4f iconchid^*; .when, with uoit^di voice, they 
 iksttE^«^lbiid re^onfe, ?«id drink theit ova* Thr per* 
 formers are then ferved with fome of it, which they 
 4iink|J^ltcrttfaf .fame cetemony has bben repeafed ; 
 iMid, ifribry perfon of a very fuperior rank ihould be 
 ■%9^sss^f 9.x:vi]k isrpcefeiited to him lafl of aJLt .After 
 'itink^i'mg fore, at {tank ^time, and helritig a refpoMve 
 .^Itektfirom th^ others, ite pours^ >a In^all qutahtity on the 
 ^rountV ^d dririks the refl. A piece of the fiefh^ 
 -«^ic!i K«ii)ets¥ drdlTcidyis thaio':rt off^ ind^ together 
 nivh fomc «f>tiiryic^eCaMe8y is placed at'the foot of the 
 l^re x>f; tbe fiatoot; and, after another hymn has been 
 9(£aote<f^<^eybegtii their mealj A ceremony, in n^any 
 , liefpt^a sefcmbtlin^ i^is, it 4lfo performeid b^ the 
 chietfl, iVi^lBki thsy .dlshik <iv» >b(lti^een tHeir regular 
 
 tr:f j^ccoKdiHf tf) thc" t^eounts tgiven by ^he natives,* hix- 
 muk fiu:rilkc^ arc more common here, thaaiii;Miy of 
 
 ■|*c/:'r*.i v.*;'r/^'r»/,? 1*"^ . f.'- ' .:■•<• '-the 
 

 ^« '*! 
 
 '.'■ r: '/ 
 
 ociety an4 
 ►ther^ they 
 cred fongSy 
 proofs that 
 the fame 
 bnger, and 
 mentionedt 
 J iMid' per- 
 ed to a par- 
 id a regular 
 in Karaka- 
 
 *-', i ,•*,*■?•* ■ 
 
 lefts before 
 igious cere- 
 they* begin 
 riorinrank 
 aftet joined 
 lies of the 
 are gently 
 gers. The 
 ) thofe w4ip 
 their han^ 
 voice, they 
 The- pet- 
 ivhich they 
 \ repeafed; 
 ^ fhould be 
 aJLt .After 
 I refpoiifive 
 ntily on the 
 f.the fteftii 
 ^ together 
 B foot of the 
 mn has been 
 ay, in Xnany 
 led by the 
 teir regiilar 
 
 Mtivcsyhn- 
 [Ltfiany of 
 
 PACIFIC Oct 
 
 J" *• i"! 
 
 1 - ♦ '• 
 
 
 
 
 i i'r 
 
 the luands we have vifited. They have recourfe to, 
 thefe horrid rites on the commencement of a war, and 
 previous to every great battle, or other fignal enter- 
 prize. The death of a chief demands a facrifice of one 
 or more tcwtowsy according to the rank he bears; and 
 we were informed that no lefs than ten were doomed Co 
 fiiffer, on the death of Terreeoboo. This pradice, 
 however, is the lefs horrible, as the unhappy viftims 
 are totally unacquainted with their favO. Thofe who 
 are dellined to fall, are attacked with large clubs, 
 wherever they may happen to be; and, after they are 
 dead, are conveyed to the place where the fubfequent 
 rites are to.be performed. ^., 
 
 , The knocking out their fore teeth may be, with pfOr 
 jpriety, clafled among their religious cuftoms. Moft of 
 the common people, and many of the chiefs, had loft 
 one or more of them; and this, we undcrftood, vfas 
 confidered as a propitiatory facrifice to the Eatooa,, ?P 
 avert his ianger ; and not, like the cutt^in^ off a part of 
 the finger at the Friendly I Hands, to exprefs the vio- 
 lenre of their grief at the deceafe of a friend. . -. 
 Of thtir opinions, with a rerpe<Sl to a fiiturc ftatc^ 
 we had very defedive informatidn. On en^uiriiig/^ 
 Ithcm, whither the dead were gone? W^ w^rc.^oM 
 that^ the breath, which they feemed to cohfidef ai- tl^ 
 immortal part, was fled to the Eatppa^ v^hey feeined 
 alfo to give a defcription of fome plac^, which thfcy 
 fuppofe to be the i^ode of the d^ad; but we coiild 
 not learn that they had any idea of rewards or i>uniikr 
 ments. ., ., ■>.:.,.. 1 . . j -^ 
 
 Very little can be faid rcfpejftin| their ^arjiage^i! 
 except that fuch a compadl feems- to exrft among thiem. 
 The following js the only inftance of any thing 
 like je^Iowfy^ which we have feen among ihcin ; and 
 which {li«M^, that, among married women of rank, 
 iiot only fidelity, but even z degree of rc&ve, ii j^ 
 
 quired. ^ .\r'^^. 
 
 ,At one of fheir boxingMnatches, Ome:^rojfe tiijro^M 
 
 three time§ :,fronv Jbts place;,, and approached' Jiir. vfife 
 
 wi^t'h ftropg marks of difpleafure, commanding her, as 
 
 we 
 
 ■'L 
 
 m 
 
 ! '■ ! '' 
 
 I ''1 -;i 
 
 ■ 1:; V 
 
 '!>l! 
 
 Jii 
 
 ' 1*1 
 
 ;-*- 
 
n 
 
 M if i 
 
 
 
 
 
 : i. 
 
 
 1^1,.. 
 
 m 
 
 j^ AVOYAGE TO THE 
 
 we fvppofedy to withdraw. Whether he thought hey 
 fceaaty engaged too much of our attention, oirwha^ 
 ever might be his motives, there certainly ^xifted no 
 'real catiie rf jealoufy. She, however, continued in her 
 jplace, and, at the conclufion of the entertainment, 
 fpined our party, and even folicited fome trirffig pre- 
 ieats« She was informed that we had not any ijbout 
 tis; but that/ If flie would accompany us to the tent, 
 !fl|e fhould be welcome to make a choice of what fhe 
 liked. She was, accordingly, proceeding with us,; 
 which, being obferved by Omeah, he foTlofwed in a 
 i;ireat rage, feized her by the hair, and, with his fifts, 
 %e^an to in^ift fev^re corporal puhifhmeat. Hiving 
 been the innocent caufe of this extraordinary treatment, 
 :^c were exceedittgiy concerned at it; though we un- 
 ^ftood it would be^ highly improper for us to inter- 
 Ifere bett^een hufbarfd and wife of fuch' fuperior rank, 
 ^THe native^,, hbwever, at fength/interpofed; and, the 
 libitt day, we had the fatisfoaion bf mieeting themto- 
 gfitberi perfeflly fa tisfied,ivith each other; and,. what 
 Was extremely Angular, the lady^ would not permit us 
 to r^lly the hufband ob his behaviour, yhlch we had 
 ift^cmiation- tp do; plainly telling fl^, that Jie had 
 
 ^^Jt'^^ '■' vV-' •■•'"■ ■'■' • ••""■"- .' ■■ 
 
 ' Ar Ktnv^ooa ^ay, we had twice ajn ojNporttinity 
 d^ MbJ: i pirt oi their foneral* tites. Hfearfng of the 
 AeaMi^iA old'diief, not far from our 6blervatories, 
 S^ne of uiTrepatred to the placed' whiere^ we beheld a 
 
 htipi^df fiBOple^dSembJed* *T^^y ^f^P ^f?t?4 roulnd 
 in iirek,^frontihg^the houfe Ivhfere t!ie iee(eaf6d* lavj 
 and a man, haying oi\^a red ^diered cap;^ ca^e to fne 
 
 ilaft Wis aftelSv'Ards'fpteafftl{>oh the ^^k, irf*^ thirteen 
 #omn arid tw6 itten, .whocfcitnfe out of the^hbufe, fat 
 ^Rrwti ujkJh it ivL thrte equrfVb^lk; thi^ee'of \he wo- 
 tneii, and the. twc^-^nen^ being in front. The wourien 
 Wd ''fckffier^ ttift bh*-thSr^necki^aht!,hknas; and 
 &ek ih&MAi v<rm'd6cblati4^^ittrbf6a'd;green le 
 
 
 Jl^ii 
 
 'JW 
 
ciif iMfly fcoUoped. Near a finall hut, at *^iie-rC(irii3iF 
 of this area, half a dozeii bciy& were placed^ ^avi:lgi. 
 fitiall white banners, and tahob fticks> who would not 
 fufFer us tjo approach them. Hence W^ jmagined, tlj^j 
 t1i6 dead body wsis depofited in tlie hiit ; but we wer| 
 ftft€(rwards Informed that 'it remained iutlie ho^fo 
 where the tricks wer6 flaying at the "dpor, l^y the,in?ft 
 in the ted cap*. ' The company, feated on the mat,fun^ 
 a melancholy tune, accompanied with a gentle i¥M>ti<^|| 
 of the arms^ and bodyv -This having continued io\pt^ 
 time, they put themlelyes in a pof^ ure between X^^^l* 
 ing and fitting, a^id their arms and bpdies ii^toa m^ 
 Vaptd motion, keeping pace at the fame time vyith.J,^ 
 mufic, - Thele lait exertions being too violent tpr efiii«J 
 tintie^ at intervals they had llower motions.- An.^hc^ift 
 having paflfcd in 'theie ceremonies, more : nvift^.^^r/gt 
 fpread upon the" area, when the dead chier&5wi^o^>5# 
 and three or four other elderly women, caipe put of iJlip 
 houfe with flow and folemn pace;, and feati^g^ ll^^ip^ 
 felves before the company, began to wail feibft bit^^ljy^ 
 in which" they were joined by the three r0ws:«>tw,omei* 
 bfehiiid them ;* the t wo men tippearing MmJ^9c:l)ojy^an4 
 penfiv«i Thev continued thus, .with iittlft x^iaM^|l#i 
 till late in ti.c evening, when we' left tht^^vcwa^.^-^ 
 day-light in the morning, the people ^ve69 'dUJierl^d, 
 arid every thing appeared perfe6tly tjuiet.^ (,We wjEirec- 
 then given to underhand, that tue body Uwsitetoq,'^!^^^ 
 but we could not learn how it was d fjxjred ad ■ \Vihji$^ 
 we ' were dire<Sting our enqu i ties ^. this jolje^! «^ 
 were approached by three women of rank|^\Yboiig-jt 
 niiied to us, that our prefence interrupled' tbe peic-j 
 formance of fome necelTary rite<?. Soop afie'^ wc hadi 
 left them, we heard their cries and lamentatioBS ; Imdi^ 
 when we met them a few hours afterwaids, the lovitr^ 
 part of their faces were painted perfedly black 
 
 •!; 
 
 ^4 -■•Ik 
 
 
 i^^S li:*A;::- ?^'ia** tti ii niin:J rS^^-.fe'^ 
 
 
 P 
 
 ih -rv.^ 
 
 ■r*' 
 
 >r-^vsBi*j: jis*«m- ^«3x-:»tl 
 
 .^i. •«. iv^*it 
 
 1 /-!B^.O|w.i 
 
 |. 
 
 
 HV 
 
 1] 
 
 
 
 ' J!3'^' . u jl'.- f W< w 
 
 A%A 
 
 i 
 
 c:k 
 
 Kw«- 
 
3^ 
 
 A . V p V A G £ TO THE 
 
 ki' f 
 
 
 h 
 
 
 .io iVff>tW«»>^V» B O O K VI. 
 
 ; .. ' • . .if 
 
 
 TRANSACTIONS IN A SECOND EXPEDITION TO 
 
 THE NORTH, BY THE WAY OF KAMTCHATKA, 
 
 *^AND IN RfeTUlRNING HOME, BY THE WAY OF 
 
 CANTON, AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 
 
 ■yii1:i 
 
 w 
 
 E weighccl anchor on the 15th of March, at 
 fcven o'clock in the evening, and flood to the fouth- 
 weft, in expedlation of falling in with the ifland of 
 Modoopapappa ; the natives having aflured us that 
 it lay in that diredlion, .within five hours fail of Ta- 
 lioora. 
 
 Not having leen the ifland at eight in the evening, 
 we hauled to the northward till midnight, when w« 
 made a fignal for the Difcovery to come under our 
 ftern, having given over all hopes of feeing Modoopa- 
 pappa. 
 
 On the 17th we fleered wefl, Captain Gierke mean- 
 ing to keep nearly in the fame parallel of latitude, till 
 we made the longitude of Awatlka Bay, and then to 
 fleer north for the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, 
 which was alfo fixed on as our rendezvous, if we ihould 
 happen to feparate. This track was chofen, becaufe 
 we fuppofed it to be yet unexplored, and we might 
 probably neet with feme ne\V iilands in our paflage. 
 
 We had iine weather and a moderate wind> till the 
 23d, when it increaled to a ftrong gale, arid conti- 
 nued about twelve hours. Afterwards it became more 
 moderate^ and remained fo till noon on the 25th; at 
 which time we had only a very light air. 
 
 Tn the morning of the 26th, we imagined we faw 
 land to the weft-louth-weft ; but we difcovered our 
 miflake, after (ailing fixteen leagues in that diredlion; 
 * and, night approaching, we again fleered wefl. We 
 purfued this courfe without much alteration in the 
 ^m\pA, till the 29th, when it fhifted abo"'*-, and was 
 
 in 
 
I 
 
 r A C l 1 1 iC O C E A Kt' 
 
 nON TO 
 CHATKA, 
 WAY OF 
 
 OPE. 
 
 ,r 
 
 •O ru 
 
 Vfarch, at 
 he fouth- 
 e ifland of 
 d us that 
 'ail of Ta- 
 
 e evening, 
 when w« 
 under our 
 Modoopa- 
 
 ;rke mean- 
 ititude, till 
 nd then to 
 i St. Paul, 
 we ihould 
 n, becaufe 
 we might 
 r paflage. 
 id> till the 
 irid canti- 
 ame more 
 J 25th; at 
 
 d we faw 
 veted our 
 diredlion; 
 veft. We 
 on in the 
 y and was 
 
 3*5 * 
 
 in the weft for a few hours in the night; the wea- 
 ther being cloudy, accompanied with a great deal ot 
 rain. ^'^ '^'^ 
 
 The continuation of the light winds, with the verr 
 uiifcttled ftate of the weather, and the little expe6bi- 
 tion we had of any change f ^r the better, induced Cap- 
 tain Gierke to give up his plan of keeping within the 
 tropical latitudes. In confequence of which, we began, 
 at fix o'clock this evening, to fteer north-weft by 
 
 north. 
 
 ?:.^-'^ J 
 
 About noon on the 6th of April, we loft the trade 
 wind. We were then in the latitude of 29^ 50^, and 
 the longitude of 170° \\ Our old running ropes hav- 
 ing been continually breaking in the late gales, we 
 reeved all the new ones w^ had left, and made other, 
 neceflary preparations for the diiFerent climate we v/ere 
 Ihortly to encounter. The fine weather, which we 
 experienced between the two tropics, had not been- 
 mifemployed. The carpenters were fufficiently en- 
 gaged in repairing the boats. Our beft bower cable 
 having received fo much injury in Karakakooah Bay, 
 and off Oneeheow, as to occafion forty fathoms to be 
 cut from it, we convert-ed that, together with fome , 
 other old cordage, into fpun-yarn, and applied it to 
 various pu f poles. By which means, many of our 
 people were kept wholly employed by the boatfwain. 
 Befides, it was now become a troublefome and labori- 
 ous part of our duty to air the fails, &c. which were 
 continually grown wet, from tlie leakinefs of the iides 
 and decks of the veflels. • - > j /.. ■•> . 
 
 There were other cares which had the prefervation 
 of the health of the crews for their objedl ; and thefe 
 continually occupied a great number of our hands. 
 Captain Cook's eftablifhed orders of airing the beds, 
 having fires between decks^ fmoking them with gun- 
 powder, and wafhing them with vinegar, was invari- 
 ably obferved, . . , 
 
 We perceived in the afternoon, fome of the fheath- 
 ing floating by the (hip; and difcovered, upon exami- 
 nation, that about fourteen feet had been wafhed oiF, 
 
 •fr> P 2 under 
 
 I'" 
 
 III 
 
 1 
 
 i I 
 

 316 A V-OYAQE TO THE 
 
 und^ thei larboad Uow; wher^^^he leak w^s,.fijqppoft;tl 
 tp jiavo,becny,^vrfiich.>ad kep^.^lji^jp^of^lei e^|)kiiy^d,at . 
 the pumps, ever fmce our departure from the Sapdr 
 v4ch,lil;in45» .makiiiig twelve 4nfhyes.]*^M^ in an hour. 
 
 ;On,Xhq iat;h, Jtl^e wind ^ v«e^e4rtOf .the eaft,jind blew 
 fo ftroBg. a gale, as,; tq pt:^lige;.us to ftrikq .our . ;top- 
 g«iUai>t ya4?ds. We )i;ippeaed„ u^ifortunately, to be 
 upon tlie aioft 4ifadyantageous tack for our leak; but 
 having always i.ept it vndei; with Jthfc hand-pumps, it 
 gave us but little concern till Tuefday the 13th, at, 
 iix iu die afternoon, when a ifuddeninundatioi) de- 
 luged the whole fpace between decks, and alarmed us 
 much. The water, which, had made j its way into 
 the.coal-hpIe, not finding a paiTag^ into the wellv.had 
 forced up tl"w platforms ovevr it, and inflantaneoufly 
 fet every thing afloat. Our fi^uation was the more 
 diflrefiing, as w« c^uld not immedia|tely difoover any 
 means of relieving ourfelves. It could be of no fer- 
 vice to plac« a, pump through the upper-decks into 
 the, coal-hole, and it was become impradticabje. to, bale 
 the water put with Jbuckets. We had, therefore, no 
 other expedient left, than to cut a hole through the 
 bulk-head, which feparated the coal-hole fromjhe 
 fore-hold^ and thus form a paflage for the water into 
 the well. Before this conld be eiFedled, however, the 
 cafks of dry prpvifions were- to be got out of the fore- 
 hojd, which took us the remainder of the night ; the 
 carpenters, therefore, could not get at ^tlie partition 
 ' till the next; mppning. The px^ge being nvide, the 
 princiiial part of the water ran into the well, when 
 we were, enabled; to get out the reft with /buckets^ 
 The leak was now greatly in^reafed, infomuch that 
 half , our pepple were conftantly employed in pumping 
 and baking, till the 15th at npon. Our ,rae!i fub- 
 mitted chearfuliy to tJiLs fatigue; and> to add to their 
 fuffering% thiey had not a dry place to fleep: in,; but, 
 in order to make them fome amends, they were per- 
 mitted to have their full allowance of gfog. 
 
 As the weather grew more moderate, and the fwell 
 abated, we cleared awajthe,reft,,Qf the. caik$, from 
 
'the Sapd* 
 an hQur. 
 fiod blew 
 .our.tPp- 
 ly, to be 
 tok; but 
 ipumps, it 
 e 13th, at 
 jdatioi) de- 
 nied us 
 way into 
 wellj had 
 ntaneoufly 
 I the more 
 foover any 
 of no ler- 
 decks into 
 lb Je. to, bale 
 3j?efore, no , 
 trough the 
 fromjhe 
 water into 
 waver, the 
 ►f the fore- 
 night; the 
 J partition 
 mjide, the 
 irell, when . 
 V /buckets. 
 Tiych that 
 1 pwmping 
 raen fub- 
 W to their , 
 p. in,; but, 
 were per- , 
 
 I ithc fwell 
 Jks, from . 
 
 the 
 
 l)if>' 
 
 P A C I F I C 0€t A N. ' Jf^ 
 
 the fore-llold, and made a proper paffiige for the water 
 to the pumps, - -^ v.. , l^.*. 
 
 The increafmg indlerhertcy of the northern cfrmatff 
 was now feverely telt. On the 1 8th, in the morn- 
 ing, we were in the latitude of 45° ^o\ 3av\ the Jon^ 
 gitude of 160^ 25^ We hail fnow, flebt, and ftrong 
 gixles from the Ibuth-weft. Confidering the fealbn of 
 the year, and the quarter from which the wind came^ 
 this is a remarkable circumftance.^ 
 
 The gale, which we had on the 1 8th, kid fplit moil 
 of the fails we had bent; and, as the fe were our fccond 
 fuit, we wefe obliged to have recourfe to our laft and 
 beft fet. Captain Clerke's, difficulties were augment- 
 ed by the fea bejng generally fo rough, and the ihips 
 fo extremely leaky, that there was no place to repair 
 the fails in, except his apartments, which wis a feri- 
 ous inconvenience to hi«i, in his declining ftate of 
 health. 
 
 At fix in the morning, oh the 23d, we faw ntoun- 
 talns covered with fno^j and a high coif>ical rock, at 
 the diftiince of abbut three or four leagues* Soon af- 
 ter we had taken this imirerfedl vie^jf' thick fog ap- 
 ^ij)eared. i^GCordmg^to our maps, w^ were now but 
 * eight leagues from the entrance of^watfka Bay; 
 therefore, ^when the weather cleared'!^ we flood in 
 ^to take a nearer furvey of the country,- when a moft 
 diimal and dreary prolpe£Vprefented itiSf. The coaft 
 ' is ftraight and uniform, without bays, or ir^lets ; from 
 the ihore, the ground rifes in moderate hills, and be- 
 hiild them are ranges of mountains, whofe fummits 
 penetrate the cle^ds. The whole was covered with 
 ihoW, except the- fides of Ibme cliffs, which rofe, too 
 perpendicularly from the fea to permit the fnow to 
 lie upon them; 
 
 The wind blew ftrong from the nbrth-eafl With 
 ha^y weather arid fleet, from the 24th to the aSth. 
 The fhip refemblefd a complete mafs of ice; the fhrouds 
 i)6ing fo incrufled with it, as to double their dimen- 
 fions; and, indeed, the oldeft feaman among us had' 
 erienced fuch continued fhowers of fleet, and^ 
 
 ■ t 
 
 
 If! 
 
 4 
 
 exp 
 
 P3 
 
 that 
 
Pp.:- 
 
 wm 
 
 m 
 
 
 ill''' I 
 
 % ■■ 
 
 3tS A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 that extremity of cold which we had now to encon- 
 ter. The inclemency of the weather, the difficulty 
 of working our fhips, and the incefTant duty required 
 at the pumps, rendered the fervice intolerable to many 
 of our crew, fome of whom were much froil-bitten, 
 and others were confined with colds. 
 
 ^i- Wc had, on the 25th, an imperfedl glance of the 
 entrance of Awatlka Bay, but could not prefume to 
 enter into it, in the prefent condition of the weather. 
 
 " Howeverj at three in the afternoon, of the ?.8th, we 
 flood in with a fair wind from the fouthwaro, having 
 foundings from twenty-two to feven fathoms. 1 
 Paffing the mouth of the bay, which extends about 
 
 ' four miles in length, a circular bafon prefents itfelf, 
 of about twenty-five miles in circumference; in which, 
 at about four o clock, we anchored in fix fathom wa- 
 
 > ter, fearing to run foul of a fhoal mentioned by Mul- 
 ler to lie in the channel. Great quantities of loofe 
 
 - ice drifted with the tide into the middle of the bay; 
 ' but the fhores were wholly blocked up with it. We 
 
 looked at every corner of the bay, to fee if we could 
 difcern the town of St. Peter and St. Paul, which, 
 from the accounts ^e had received at Oonalafhka, 
 
 - "we fuppoled to be a place of flrength and confequence. 
 At lafi we perceived, to the north -eafl, fome mifera- 
 ble log-houfes, and a few conical huts, amounting, in 
 
 'the whole, to about thirty; which, from their fitua- 
 
 ~ tion. We concluded to be Petropaulowfka. In juftice, 
 
 / however, to the hopitable treatment vse found here, 
 
 it may not be amifs to anticipate the reader s curiofity, 
 
 ' by afTuring him, that our difappointment proved in the 
 
 end, a matter of entertainment to us. In this wretched 
 
 t extremity of the earth, beyond conception barbarous 
 
 and inhofpitable, out of the reach of civilizatioii, 
 
 bound and barricadoed with ice, and covered with fum- 
 
 • roer fnow, we experienced the tenderefl feelings of hu*- 
 
 ^manity, joined to a noblencfs of mind, and elevation 
 
 of fentiment, which would have done honour to any 
 
 dime or nationr r-^j^ .->«, (/^>^j^^ ,|i^*ifiii ^i.i^'^ikkYii. 
 
 JU 
 
 
 St. 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN, 
 
 to cncon- 
 
 le difficulty 
 
 ty required 
 
 Me to many 
 
 frofl-bitten, 
 
 |ncc of the 
 
 prefume to 
 
 Je weather. 
 
 ?.8th, we 
 
 iro, having 
 
 IS. 
 
 tends about 
 Tents itfelf, 
 ; in which, 
 athom wa- 
 5d by Mul- 
 ?s of loofe 
 f the bay; 
 thit. We 
 f we could 
 ul, which, 
 >onalafhka, 
 >nfequence. 
 me mifera- 
 unting, in 
 their fitua- 
 In juAice, 
 >und here, 
 curiofity, 
 'ved in the 
 wretched 
 barbarous 
 ^iJizatiox^, 
 «^ith fum- 
 igs of hu- 
 elevation 
 41 tp any 
 
 319 
 
 In the morning of the 29th, at day-light, Mr. 
 King was fent with boats to examine the bay, and to 
 prefent the letters to the Ruflian comnrnnder, which 
 we had brought from Oonalafhka. We proceeded 
 towards the village juft mentioned, and having ad- 
 vanced as far as we could with the boats, got upon 
 the ice, which reached about half a mile from the 
 Ihore. Mr. King was attended by Mr. Webber, and 
 two of the feamen, whilft the mafter went to fnifli 
 the furvey ; , the jolly boat being left to carry us 
 back. ^ ' 
 
 Probably the inhabibants had not, by this time, 
 feen either of -the Ihips or the boats ; for, even on 
 the ice, no appearance of a living creature could be 
 feen in the town. When farther advanced on the ice, 
 a few men were feen hurrying backwards and forwards ; 
 and afterwards a fledge, with one perfon in it, drawn by 
 dogs, approached us. 
 
 Struck with this unufu^l fight, airid admiring tli^ 
 civility of -the ftrangerj who w^ fuppofed, was cominjg^ 
 to our afliflance, we were aftonifhea to lee him turn 
 fhort round, and dire<5l his courfe towards the ojirog* 
 We were equally chagrined and difappointed at tlus 
 abrupt departure; efpecially as the journey over the 
 ice began to be both difficult and dangerous. At every 
 Aep we took, we -funk almofl knee-deep in the fnow; 
 and though there was tolerable feting at the bottom, 
 the weak parts of the ice were not difcoverable, and 
 we were continually expofed to the riik of breaking 
 through it. Indeed this accident adually happened 
 to Mr. King, but by the afTiflance of a boat-hook, he 
 was enabled to get upon firm ice again. 
 
 The nearer we' approaced the fhore, we found the 
 ice fiill more broken. The fight of another fledge ad- 
 vancing towards us, however, afforded us forae com- 
 fort; but, inltead of coming to relieve us, the driver 
 ftopt fhort, and called out to us. Mn King imme- 
 diately held up ICmyloff's letters. In confequence of 
 which, he turned about, and went full fpeed back 
 again; followed with the execrations of feme of our 
 
 P 4 party. 
 
 If 
 
 
 ii 
 
 m] 
 
320 
 
 A yOYAjCE TO THE 
 
 party.. Unable to draw any conclufiQn from this un- 
 accountable behaviour, ,w« flill proceeded tpiyai^ds the 
 ^y^f'^i^ with thegreateft circmnfpe<Stion; and,f when at 
 the dyiance of aboot a quar^rof a mile.frpm it, we 
 oWervcd a, body of ^meciinen advancing . tQwar^ls us. 
 To avoid giving ^hje^n any.alarn^i, and to preferve the 
 nipfl peaceable appeanice, JVTr, King and Mr. Webber 
 marched in front, and the men who had boat-hooks 
 in their hands, were ordered in the rear. The. ar^ned 
 parly conijijed of about thirty foldiers, preceded . by 
 a perfon with a cane in his hand. Within a few pace§ 
 of uf,,heY halted, and^rew up his, men in a; martial 
 order. , lyii^f Kingprefented Ifmyloff's letters to him, 
 and vainly epdeavoi^ired to make him underfland that 
 we were Endifli, and had brought thefe difpatches 
 from Oonalamka. v:.-,.- r.f*jv. Aifirl r?'is» .r. .r -.n-.f - • ti 
 v:!fJayii>g attentively eifamiped us, he conduced us 
 towards the village in folemn iile^ice, frequently halt- 
 ing his men, swd.JQi^ting th^m perfprm, different, p^rts 
 of thei r , manual exercife i »" />f ^lo^ ^^^ a, o^^ ,, ^ ^ o^'- ^ -^c. 
 
 Aat, if we ftiOTild prefume to dflfer any violence, we 
 (Fiouid have to deal with thofe who knew what th^ 
 
 were about. ^'*'"'' ' ' • '' 
 
 ' During the whdle of this time, Mr. Iting was in his 
 wot clothes, fhivering with cold; yet he could not 
 avoid being diverted with thi& militaryparade, though 
 it was attended by an unfeafonaWe d^ky. Arriving^ 
 at length, at the habitation of Ae commanding officer 
 of the party, we were tifhered in ; and, after giving 
 orders to the military without doors, our hoft ap- 
 peared, accompanied by the fecretary of the port. 
 One of the letters from 'IfmyloiFv^^s now opened, and 
 the other fent exprefsto Bolcheretlk, a town on* the 
 weft fide of Kamtfchatka^ and the^^laee of reiidente 
 of the jRuflran ^commander 6i this 'pn'ovince. ' x<<i >«**^ 
 - The officer, who ' had condikSl^ us- to his 'hou% • 
 was a ferjeattt-;" and alfo the commander of thc^rcr^ f: 
 who entertained us with the litmoft civility. » '^f' *^^^ 
 • On the niotiiing 6f the 36A, the^afc atjd tables 
 Were takeu'to the <juartcr*deck^ td^lighteri 'the; vd5»! 
 < '• . t - for- 
 
P A C*I F I C OCE AN. 
 
 I this un- 
 Vai?ds the 
 f when at 
 m it, we 
 w^r^s us. 
 ^ferve tlie 
 Webber 
 )at-hooks 
 le.^r^ned 
 :edqd . by 
 ew pace§ 
 I martial 
 
 t 
 
 s to him, 
 tand that 
 lifpatches 
 
 dueled \)S 
 itly halt- 
 enVp^rts 
 
 Bfice, we 
 irhat th^ 
 
 ras in his 
 ould not 
 f, though 
 A.rriving^ 
 ig officer 
 ?r giving 
 hoft ap- 
 be port, 
 ned, and 
 1 on* the 
 refidente 
 
 6 ^hoti% 
 
 d tAb1e« 
 for- 
 
 3^^ 
 
 -fbrwar'd; and the carp^enters proceeded to flop the leak,, 
 whicht iiad OCcafioned us fo much trouble; It was occa- 
 fioliied by fome fhcathing falling off from the larboard- 
 boW, and the oakum having been wa/hed otit from 
 between the plnnks. We had fuch warm weather in 
 the middle of the dayy that the rce began to break away 
 very fall, and almoft choaked up the entrance of tkc 
 bay. Sevfenll of our officers Waited upon the ferjeant,. ^*' 
 whb received them with gfeat divility; and Ctiptain- 
 Gierke liiade him a prefent of tWo bottles of rum, 
 thinking he cbuld rtbt fend him any thing more ac* 
 ceptJlble. Ill retutii, he received twenty fine trouts,. 
 andfome excellent fowls of the groufe kind; Thouglii 
 the bay fwarmfed with ducks and Greenland pigeons, 
 our fportfmen had no fuccefs, they were fo exceedingly 
 ihy as hot to come within fliot. ., v 
 
 On the I ft of May, in the mcjrning, we faw the- 
 Difcovery ftanding in the bay ; a boat was difpatched 
 to h6r affiftance, and fhe was moored in the aftcrnooo;. 
 clof(5 by the Refolution. ^ 
 
 * By the afliftance of an interprefer, we wete* novir' 
 enabled to converfe with the Ruffians, "With fome de*' 
 gree of facility; and the firft objedts of out inquiries^ 
 were, the means of procuring frefh pro^'i{lons and:na- 
 veil ftores, particularly the latter, for the want of 
 which, we had been long in great diftrefs. It appear- 
 ed, upon inquiry, that the whole country about the- 
 bay could furniui no other live cattle than two heifers, 
 and: thefe the ferjeant engaged to proctfre for us,. A«'" 
 to naval ftores, it was fruitlef* to think of gaining* 
 them here, without paying for them a moft exorbi- 
 tant price to the merchants. Captain Gierke there- 
 fore fent Mr. King to the Commander at Bolcheretfk,. 
 to learn the price of ftores at that places 
 
 On Mn King's arrival at the capital, he was- re-' 
 ceived in a public manner, and entertained with the 
 higheft iparli of friendftiip and politenefs* Major 
 Behm-was at this tirne commander of the garrifoh; he 
 not Only diftrelTedhfihfelf and his family, by making, 
 prefcnts to the Englifh, of a great part of his fmalk 
 
 . P 5 flock: 
 
 i "(I 
 
 ^■,.,iffl 
 
 
 
3^A 
 
 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 
 'f'l 
 
 ft ' 
 
 #' Hi 
 
 flock of tea, fugar, and other refrefliments, but even 
 iiipplied them with fuch naval flores as he could pro- 
 cure, at the fame time abfolutely refufing all kind of 
 payment, declaring that his Royal miftrefs would be 
 happy in hearing, that it had been in the power of 
 her lervants to relieve the fubjetSls of fo faithful an 
 
 ally, vk '■f->* i .'.■ ' .1 f ., '? 
 
 On the 1 6th of May, a fmall bullock was killed, 
 
 which the ferjeant had procured for the fhips' compa- 
 
 Its weight was two hundred and feventy-two 
 
 lues. 
 
 pounds. It was ferved out to both the crews for their 
 Sunday's dinner, and was tHe.firfl freih beef which 
 they had tailed fince the departure of our veflels from 
 the Cape of Good Hope in December 1776; a period 
 of almoft two years and a half. i^^ . . _ t. . . ; 
 
 ;, John Mackintofh; tlie carpenter's mate, expired 
 this evening, after having been affli(5led with a dyfen- 
 tery ever fmce we had left the Sandwich Illes. He 
 was a peaceable and induftrious man, and greatly re- 
 gretted by his mefs-mates. Though he wao the fourth 
 perfon that we had loft by ficknels during jur voyage, 
 he was the firft, who, from his age and conftitution, 
 could be faid to have had, on our letting out, an equal 
 chance of life with the reft of his companions. Wat- 
 man was fuppofed by us to be about fixty years old; 
 and Roberts, and Mr. Anderfon, from the decline 
 which had manifeftly commenced before our departure 
 from England, moft probably could not, under any 
 circumftances, Jiave lived to a later period than they 
 
 ^d. ., i:xU, (^': 
 
 Captain Gierke s health continuing daily to decline, 
 notwithftanding the falutary change of diet which 
 Kamtfchatka afforded him, the prieft of Paratounca, 
 as foon as he was informed of the weak ftate he was 
 in, fupplied him every day with milk, bread, fowls, 
 and frefli butter, though his habitation was fixteen 
 miles from the harbour where our fhips were ftationed. 
 
 The Ruffian hofpital, near the town of St. Peter 
 and Stt Paul, was, at owx firft arrival, in a very de- 
 
 ,A>«r; 
 
[but even 
 >uld pro- 
 [1 kind of 
 rould be 
 )ower of 
 Ithful an 
 
 ; 
 t V / . 
 
 IS killed^ 
 
 compa- 
 
 iiity-two 
 
 for their 
 
 jf which 
 
 [els from 
 
 a period 
 
 expired 
 a dyfen- 
 Ues. He 
 reatly re- 
 
 he fourth 
 
 » 
 
 ir voyage, 
 iftitution, 
 , an equal 
 s. Wat- 
 ears old; 
 5 decline 
 departure 
 nder any 
 han they 
 
 -r. 
 
 ) decline, 
 rt which 
 •atounca, 
 e he was 
 I, fowls, 
 i fixteen 
 bationed. 
 X. Peter 
 yery de- 
 plorable 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. * 323 
 
 plorabit ftate. All the foldiers were, in a greater or 
 lefs degree, afflidted with the fcurvy, many being in 
 the laft ftage of that diforder. The reft of the Ruffian 
 inhabitants were likewife in a fimilar condition; and 
 v/e obferved, that our friend the ferjeant, by drinking 
 too fretly of the fpirits he had received from us, had 
 brought on himfelf, in the courfe of a few days, fevc- 
 ral of rhe moft alarming fymptoms of that difeafe. 
 Captain Gierke, defirous of relieving them from this 
 lamentable ftate, put them all under the care of our 
 furgeons, and gave orders, that a fupply of four krout, 
 and malt, for wort, fhould be furnifhed for their ufe* 
 A furprifmg alteration foon took place in the figures 
 of moft of them; and their fpeeily recovery was attri- 
 buted to the effedls of the fweet wort. 
 
 On Tuefday the firft of June, two hundred and 
 fifty poods, or nine thoufand pdunds weight of rye flour 
 were brought on board the Refolution ; and the Dif- 
 covery received a proportional quantity. We were 
 fupplied with- this flour from the ftores of Petropau- 
 lowlka. 'J he men were now put on their full allow- 
 ance of bread, which, from the time of our leaving 
 the Cape of Good Hope, they had not been indulged 
 in. I'he fame day, we completed our ftock of water, 
 lixty-five tons having been conveyed on board. 
 
 We were furprifed, before day-light, on the 15th, 
 with a rumbling noife, that refembled diftant thunder; 
 and, when the day appeared, we found that the fides 
 and decks of our fnips were covered, near an inch thick, 
 with a fine duft like emery. The air was at the fame 
 time loaded and obfcured with this fubftance; and, 
 towards the volcano mountain, which ftands to the 
 northward of the harbour, it was exceedingly thick 
 ami black, infomuch that we were unable to diftinguiih 
 the body rf the hillo About twelve o^clock, and dur- 
 ing the afternoon, tlie loiulnefs of the explofionu in-.. • 
 creafed ; and they were facceecled bv (liowers of cinders, t 
 which, in general, were thefize or^ peas,- though many r 
 of thofe that were picked up from the deck were lar- • 
 ger than a hazel nut. Several fmall ftopes, which had 
 
 P 6 unier*' 
 
 n 
 
 •J 
 
 ■it ■•'I 
 
 I 
 
SM 
 
 A ^VOYAGE TO ft His: 
 
 »i!it '■ i 
 
 'tlii 
 
 undergone tio aVi^i^atiort from the action : of • fire, fell 
 with the cinders. Ih the eveiting we had! dreadful -claps 
 of thunder, atid vivid flashes of lightning, which^ 
 with the darkneft of tha fkyi and tlie fulphareous 
 fmdl of the air, produced a visry <ivvfal and^tremen- 
 ilous^ffe^t. Our diflance from the foot of the moun^ 
 taiin was about eight leagues. 
 
 At day-break on the i6th, we got up our anchors; 
 and it ifeeing' the intention of Coptain Gierke to keep 
 Ml fight of the coaft of Kamtfcnatka, ar much as the 
 weather would allow, in order to alcertain its pofi- 
 tiod, w« continued to fteer to the north*north-eaft, 
 with variable light winds till the i8th. The volcano 
 was obfervej} to throw up immenfe volumes of fmoke, 
 and we did not ftrike ground with one hundred and 
 fifty fathoms of line, at the diftance of twelve miles 
 from theihore. 
 
 The feafon ' being too far advanced for «is to make 
 an accurate furvey of the coaft of Kamtfchatka, it was 
 the defign of Captain Gierke, in our courfe to Beer- 
 ing's Straits, to afcertain chiefly the refpedlive fitua- 
 tions of the projefting points of the coaft. We there- 
 fore fteered acrofs a fpacious bay, laid down between 
 Kamtichatfkoi Nofs and Olutorikoi Nofs, witha view 
 ox making the latter; which is reprefented by the 
 Ruffian geographers, as terminating the peninfula of 
 Kamtfchatka, as being the fouthern limit of the coun- 
 try of the Kotiacs. 
 
 On Tuiifday the 2 ad, we paffed a dead whale, which 
 emitted a iaioft horrible fmell, perceivable at the dif- 
 tance of three or four miles. It was covered with 
 St \ery confiderable number of gnlls, petrels, and 
 other oceanic birds, which were regaling themfelves 
 up^m it* 
 
 At one o'clock in the afternoon of the 25th, when 
 we were in the latitude of 59® 12^, and in the longi- 
 tude of 168^ 35', a very thick fog came on, about the 
 time we expedled to obtain a view of Olutorfkoi Nofs, 
 which (if MuUer's pofition of it is right) could then 
 have been only a dozen leagues from us; at which 
 
 1 diftance 
 
 hh , 
 
P A C IF I C OCEAN* 
 
 325 
 
 fire, fell 
 
 pful 'claps 
 
 which^ 
 
 Ij^areous 
 
 ^tremen- 
 
 e moun- 
 
 anchors ; 
 to keep 
 ch as the 
 its pofi- 
 rth^aft, 
 2 volcano 
 f fmoke, 
 dred and 
 Ive miles 
 
 to I make 
 fca, it was 
 to Beer- 
 ive fitua- 
 Ve there- 
 between 
 th a view 
 1 by the 
 linCula of 
 :he coun- 
 
 le, which 
 che dif- 
 red with 
 els, and 
 lemfelves 
 
 h, when 
 \e longi- 
 ibout the 
 oi Nois, 
 aid then 
 t whicli 
 diilanc€ 
 
 dtftance, we might oafily have difeerneil land at amo- 
 derate 'height. Our 'dq|fh of water, for the prefent^ 
 was fo great, that we had no ground with a hundred 
 
 and'fixty fatlioms of line* .^^ »*? , «* »* ^^^,-^ii^.' 
 
 . However, on the morning of tlie 28th, about fix 
 o'clock, we had fight of lanci, towards the north weft, 
 DThecoaft appeared in hills of a moderate elevation; 
 butj inlattd, others were obferved conliderably higher, 
 TheJiiow Lying in patches, and no wood appearing, 
 the /land had a very barren afpedt. We found this land 
 to be St. Thadeus's Nofs, • ^ • / w^vj** -- • 
 
 t -On the 6th of July,' at twelve o'clock, our htitude 
 was 67°, and our longitude 191° 6\ Having already 
 pafled many large mailes of ice, and obferved that it 
 adhered, in feveral places, to the fhore of the Aliatic 
 continent, we were not greatly furpri zed when we fell 
 ill, about three o'cloek, with an extenfive boijy of it, 
 ftretching towards the weft. This appearance confi- 
 derably difcou raged our hopes of proceeding much far- 
 tlier to the ttorth this year, than we had xloiie the pre- 
 ceding. There being but little wind in the afternoon, 
 the boats were hoifted out in purfuit of the fea-horfes, 
 great numbers of which were feen on the detached 
 pieces of ice ; but they returned without fuccefs : thefe 
 atnimals being extremely {hy, and, before our peopl^ 
 could come within gun-fiiot of them, always retreated 
 into the water. ' ' . 
 
 On Friday the 9th, a freih gale blew from the nortti^ 
 north-weft, accompanied with violent ftiowers of fnow 
 and fleet. Our latitude, at noon, was 69^ 12^ and 
 our longitude 188® 5^^; and^ having now failed almoft 
 forty leagues to the weft, along the edge of the ice, 
 without perceiving any opening, or a clear fea beyond 
 it towards the north, we had no profpedt of making 
 farther progrefs to the northward at prefent. Captain 
 Clerke, therefore, determined to bear away to the fouth 
 by eaft, the only quarter which was clear, and to wait 
 till the feafon was fomewhat more advanced, before he 
 made any farther attempts to penetrate *brough the 
 
 
 ice. 
 
 # 
 
I-^.' 
 
 ' M 
 
 r ^ * 
 
 \U9 ■ 
 
 ^26 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 In confequence of this determination, we made fail 
 to the foi!thward> till the totti at noon, when we paf-- 
 fed confiderable quantities or drift ice, and a perfedl 
 calm enfued. We continued perfevering in this attempt, 
 and on the 19th had reached tKe latitude of 70° 33^, 
 which was about five leagues fhort of tlie point, to which 
 we had advanced the preceding fummer ; but on the 
 20th, a connedled folid field of ice baffled all our efforts 
 to make a nearer approach to the land, and (as we had 
 fome reafon to imagine) adhering to it, we relinquifhed 
 all hopes of a north-eaft nafiage to ( ^reat Britain. 
 
 Captain Gierke Tit) v jQnding it impoilible to advance 
 farther to the nurthward on the American coafl, and 
 deeming it equally improbable, that fuch a prodigious 
 quantity of icefhould be diflblved by the few remaining 
 weeks diat would terminate the fummer, confidered it 
 as the befl flep that could be taken, to trace the fea 
 over to the coaO of Afia, and endeavour to find fome 
 opening that would admit him farther north, or fee 
 what more could be done upon that coafl, where he 
 hoped to meet w^ith better fuccefs. ,. ,* ,,p.. 
 
 The next morning, the aadof July, the clear water, 
 in which we fleered to and fro, did not exceed a mile 
 and a half, and was leflening every moment. At> 
 length, afler exerting our mofl flrenuous endeavours to 
 clear the loofe ice, we were under the neceffity of fore- -, 
 ing a paffage to the fouth, which we accomplifhed be- 
 tween leven and eight, though not without fubjedting 
 the fiiip to fome very fevere fhocks. The Difcovery*;, 
 was not fo fuccefsful; for, about eleven o'clock, when 
 file iiaa almofl got clear out, fhe became fo entangled,, 
 by feveral large [icv-es, that her progrefs was flopped, 
 and flie iiiimedlately dropped to leeward, and fell, broad- 
 fxde foremoll, on the edge of a confiderable body of 
 ice; and there being an open fea to windward, the furf.. 
 occa{ior-d hcv ^o ftrike with violence upon it. This 
 mafs, cU iengf»., .?ither fo far broke, or moved, as to 
 give tlie crew an opportunity of making another efl'ort : 
 to efcaie ; hnr, it unfortunate! v happened, that, before i- 
 the fhip gathered way enough to be under command,. 
 
 ihe 
 
;PACIFie OCE AN. 
 
 327 
 
 lade fail 
 
 [we pa A 
 
 perfe<a 
 
 [t tempt, 
 
 which 
 on the 
 Ir efforts 
 we had 
 
 iquiihed 
 |in. „.. . 
 
 idvance 
 ift, and 
 »digious 
 naining 
 [dered it 
 the fea 
 
 id fome 
 or fee 
 [here he 
 
 1 r r .". ' 
 
 • water, 
 a inife 
 t. At 
 ours to 
 f forc- 
 led be- 
 jeding 
 -overy 
 when 
 mgled 
 >Pped, 
 )ro3d- 
 Jy of 
 e furf.. 
 
 This : 
 
 as to , 
 
 iflbrt ' 
 efore ■■. 
 land,, 
 ihe 
 
 (lie fell to leeward a fecond time, on another fragment, 
 and the fwell rendering it unfafe to lie to windward, 
 and finding no profpeS of getting clear, they pufhed 
 into a fmall opening, furled their fails, and made the 
 veffel fail with ice-hooks. 
 
 We faw them in this dangerous fituation at noon, at 
 the diftance of about three miles from us, in a north- 
 weft diredion ; a frefh gale from the fouth-eaft driving 
 more ice towards the north-weft, and augmenting the 
 body that lay between us. To add to the apprehen- 
 iions which began to force themfelves on our minds^ 
 between four and five in the afternoon, the weather 
 becoming thick and hazy, we loft fight of the Difco- 
 very. However, that we might be in a fituation to 
 afford her every poflible afliftance, we ftood on clofe 
 by the edge of the ice. About fna o'clock the wind 
 fhifting to the north, gave us fome hopes that the ice 
 might drift away, and releafe her from her danger ; and 
 in that cafe, as it was uncertain in what condition ftier 
 might come out, we continued every half hour to fire 
 a gun, with a view of preventing a feparation. Our 
 fears for her fafety did not ceafe till nine, when we 
 heard her guns fired in anfwer to ours ; and not long 
 afterwards, being hailed by her, we were informed, that, 
 upon the change of wind, the ice began to feparate ; 
 and that her people, fetting all the fails, forced a palTage. 
 through it. We found, that flie had rubbed off much' 
 of the ftieathing from her bows, and was become very 
 leaky, from the violent blows {he had received when ftie 
 fell upon the edge of the ice. 
 
 It being now neceffary to come to fome determination 
 refpedting the courfe we were next to fteer, Captain 
 Clerke difpatched a boat, with the carpenters, on board 
 the Difcovery, to make inquiry into the particulars of 
 the damage ihe had lately received. They returned in 
 the evening, ^'ith the report of Captain Gore, and of 
 the carpenters of both veffels, that the damages fuftained 
 were fuch as would require three weeks to repair; and 
 that it would be requifite, for that purpofe, to make the 
 
 beft of their way to fome fort. .. » j; 
 
 X iius. 
 
 4 
 

 M .' 
 
 ,(Vi 
 
 
 jiB A VOYAGE to T fl E 
 
 'Thus finding our farther pixygrefs to ilk nofth, afs 
 v,'0. as oiir nearer approach to either coh^itieil't, 6'oilri!ic- 
 •tqd by imipenfe bodies of ice, \ve conTitli^rd3''it n$ riot 
 only injurious to the fervite, by end?!n|*ering;' tfie fifety 
 of the fliips, but likewife frultlefs with retpe^^ ro this 
 defign of our voyage, io make arly farther atfei'npt^ for 
 the difcovery of a paflage. This, therdfore^ added to 
 Captairi Ci ore's repreleritatloh^ determined Captain 
 Gierke to Ibfe ho more time iii v^hdt he cohchided to be 
 an unattainable bbjef^i but to proceed to the bay of A- 
 wiai'lka, to repair oiir damages ther^, and, before the 
 winter iliouldfet in, to take a furvey of the bo^tft of 
 Japan. 
 
 Great was thie joy that appe.7red On the cduiitenance 
 of every individual, as foon as CaptUin Gierke's refolu- 
 tion were made known. We were all completely weary 
 <^f a nivigation full of danger, and in which the greateu 
 petieverance liad not been rewarded with the fmalleft 
 prcirpe(fl of fucceis. We therefore turned our faces 
 towards home, after an abfence of three years, with 
 extreme delight dnd fatisfadlion, notwithiianding the 
 very long, voyage we had flill to make; 
 
 We continued our voyage till the 3ifl of July; and 
 on Monday the sd, of Auguft, the weather being clear. 
 We perceived land at noon, forming many elevated hura- 
 mecks, v/hich bore the appearance of fepa* ite iftands. 
 
 On the 17th, Captain 'Gierke being no longer, able to- 
 get out of his bed, fignified his defire, thdt'the ofHcers- 
 would receive their orders from Mr. King; and dire6led 
 that we fhould repair, with all convenient fi^eed, to 
 the bay of Awatfka. 
 
 At nine o'clock in the morning, on Sunday the 22d: 
 of Auguft, Gapt. Charles Gierke expired, in the thirty- 
 eighth year of his age. His death was occafioned by a- 
 confumption, which had manifeftly commenced before 
 his departure from England, and of which he had lin-» 
 
 fered, during the whole continuance of the voyage*' 
 lis very gradual decay had for a long time renderea him 
 a melancholy objel5t to his friends; but the firmnefs 
 and equanimity with which he bore it, the conftant flow • 
 
 of * 
 
north, 2ts 
 
 ft, obilftic- 
 
 •it a$ riot 
 
 \e<St to th-Q 
 
 reiYipt^ for 
 
 added to 
 
 Giiptain 
 
 [uded to be 
 
 >ay of A- 
 
 )etore the 
 
 fcodft of 
 
 Jiitenaqce 
 e*s refolu- 
 ely weary 
 legreateft 
 e unalleft 
 oUr faces 
 3rg, with 
 Idling the 
 
 uly; and 
 'mg clear, 
 'ed hum- 
 5 iftands. 
 r able to^ 
 s officers- 
 di reded 
 ^ed, to; 
 
 the 22d: 
 tthirty- 
 led by a- 
 1 before 
 lad lin- ' 
 voyage* 
 edhim 
 rmnef* 
 It-flow* 
 
 PACIFIC 
 
 C E A N% ja^ 
 
 of good fpirits, which he retained even to the laft hoiir^ 
 arid a chearful refignation to his flue, furniflied them 
 with!fome coiifolation. It was impomble not to feel 
 an imcdminon degree of companion tor a gentleman, 
 who had expeiienced a ferieo of thofe difficulties and 
 hardfliips, which muil be the inevitable lot of every 
 feaman, and under which he at laft fimk. He was bred 
 to the navy from his youth, and had been in many en- 
 gagements during -the war which began in the year 
 175^\ In the adion between the Bellona and Coura- 
 geiix, he, \yas Rationed in the mizen-top, and was car- 
 ried overboard with the maft ; but was.afterwards taken 
 \ip, without having received the leaft injury. He was 
 niidrtiipman on hoard the Dolphin, commanded by 
 Commodore Byron, when fhe firil: failed round the 
 world; and was afterwards on the American ftation. 
 In tlie year 1768, he engaged in a iecoiia voya^p;© round 
 the world, in the fituation of mailer's mate of 'the En- 
 deavpur; and, during the expedition, fucceeded to a 
 lieutenancy, In the Refolution he made a third voy; 
 
 age round the world, in the capacity of fccond lieute^ 
 I rant; and in> fhort time after his rettni, mjF>)j'€' 
 he was appointed mafter and commander. 'In the pre- 
 fent expedition, he was appointed captain of the Dil^ 
 covery,.an.d to accompany Captain Cook. By thcjca- 
 lamitoiTs death of the. other, he natur* V {hcceedjed^ 
 as has befrn already related, to the chi^f c mmand. ./;' 
 It would favour of injuftice and ingratitjde to his 
 mc mory, not tgf mention, that, during the.fiiort time 
 he commanded the expedition, he M'as moft remarka- 
 biy -zealous for its/uccefs. When the principal com- 
 mand devolved upon him, his health began rapidly to 
 decline; and he was unequal, in every refpe<5l, to en- 
 counter the'feverity.of a high northern climate. The 
 vigour t)f hts mind, however^, was not, in the leaft, 
 impaired by the decay of his body ; and though he 
 wa's perfc6i:lv fenfible, that his delaying to return to a 
 wanner climate, was depriving himfelf of tha only 
 chance of recovery ; yej;, fo attentive was he to his 
 duty, that he wm idetermined not to fUfFer his owi\ 
 *■■'•■■' fltua- 
 
 t- ;!■ 
 
 1j* 
 
 ill 
 
H t 
 
 
 f , 
 
 rl 
 
 330 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 fituation to bias his judgement to the prejudice of tfit 
 fervice : he therefore perCevered in the fearch of a pai- 
 fage, till every officer in the expedition declared they 
 were of opinion it was impra^icabley and that any 
 farther attempts would be equally hazardous and inef- 
 fedlual. i---y ...f- .• • f .; wa =»'". :'.r. ,.-•■.■••0;. 
 
 t Captain King fent a meflenger to Captain Gore, to 
 acquaint him with the death of Captain Clerke, who 
 brought a letter from Captain Gore, containing an or- 
 der for Captain King to exert his \itmofl endeavours to ' 
 keep, in company with the Difcovery, and, if a fep. - 
 ration fhould happen, to repair, as foon as poffibl- 
 St. Peter and St, Paul. In the afternoon we had L^i. 
 airs, which continued till noon on the 23d; when, a 
 frelh breeze fpringing up from the eaft, we fteered for 
 the entrance of Awatfka bay. On the 24th, at one 
 in the morning, we dropped anchor, the ebb tide then 
 Jfetting againft us. . ; i . > :r » : i; ar .-:..: 
 f We weighed about nine o'clock, and went up the 
 bay with light airs, which being afterwards fucceeded 
 t>y a fre/h breeze, we anchored before three, in the 
 ' yu:|H>iir of St. Peter and St. Paul; having up our en- 
 Sgri half ftafF, as the body of our bte Captain was in 
 the veflel ; and the Difcovery followed us in a very fhort 
 time* , » t'j .■.; •.•-•» , :,\.. , 'i' ... :.,... ;,.\*.. ?■ .v.*' '... ■:■•'■ ^'. 
 : Soon after we had anchored, we were vifited by our 
 bid friend, the Serjeant, (ftill the commanding offictr 
 of the place) who brought with him a prefent of ber- 
 ries, intended for Captain Clerke. He was much af- 
 fedted at hearing of his death, and feeing the coffin 
 wherein his body was depofited. As the deceafed Cap- 
 tain had particularly requefled to be buried on fhore, and 
 gave the preference to the church at Paratounca, we 
 embraced this opportunity of confulting with the Ser- 
 jeant, about the necefTary fleps to be piirfued on the oc- 
 
 1I.; 
 
 pafion. 
 
 : After much converfation on this fubje61:, which w;^s 
 very imperfedlly carried on, for want of an interpreter, 
 we gathered intelligence that De L'iHe, and fonie other 
 Ruffian gentlemen, who had died here, were buried 
 
■mr 
 
 ice of tfie 
 of a pai- 
 lared they 
 that any 
 and inef- 
 
 » ■ ■ 
 
 Gore, to 
 rke, who 
 ng an or- 
 eavours to 
 if a fep;.- 
 offib! 
 ehad L^i, 
 ; when, a 
 fleered for 
 th, at one 
 tide then 
 
 5nt up the 
 ! fucceeded 
 ee, in the 
 ip our en- 
 ain was in 
 very fhort 
 
 ted by our 
 ing offictr 
 nt of ber- 
 much af- 
 the coffin 
 safed Cap- 
 fhore, and 
 >unca, we 
 h the Ser- 
 on the oc- 
 
 vhich was 
 iterpreter, 
 onie other 
 ire burled 
 near 
 
 i P A C 1 F I C OCEAN. 33I 
 
 ilear the barracks, at the ojirog of St. Peter and St. 
 Paul ; and that this place would certainly be more eli- 
 gible than Paratounca, as the church was fhortly to he 
 removed thither. We, therefore, determined to wait 
 the arrival of the Prieft of Paratounca, who was im- 
 mediately to be fent for, as being the perfon heft quali- 
 fied to give us any information we required upon the fub- 
 jed^. The Serjeant, at the fame time expreffed his in- 
 tentions of fending an exprefs to the commander of 
 Bolcheretfk, with intelligence of our arrival ; when 
 Captain Gore begged to avail himfelf of that opportu- 
 nity of conveying a letter to him, wherein he requcfted 
 that fixteen head of black cattle might be fent with all 
 pofTible difpatch. And, as the commander was unac- 
 quainted with any language except his own, the parti- 
 culars of oui: requeft were communicated to the Ser* 
 jeant, who not only undertook to fend the letter, but 
 alfo an explanation of its contents. • • • 
 
 It v/as a general remark among us, that, though the 
 face of the country had improved in its appearance 
 fince we had left it, the Ruffians looked even worfc 
 than they did then. They made the very fame obfef- 
 tation with refped to us; aiidj as neither party feemed 
 pleafed with the difcovery, we mutually confoled our- 
 felves by calling the blame upon the country, whofe 
 verdant and lively compjedlion had occafioned an ap- 
 pearance of fallownefs on our own. ^7.:>,^^ * oi: . -^ - 
 
 On the 25th of Augufl, in the morning, Captain 
 Gore, in confequence of the death of Captain Gierke, 
 made out thenew commiffions. He appointed himfelf 
 to the command of the Refolution, and Mr. King to 
 that of the Difcovery. Mr. Lanyan, who was mailer's 
 mate of the Refolution, and who had been in the capa- 
 city in the former voyage, on board the Adventure, 
 was appointed to the vacant lieutenancy. The foUowr 
 ing arrangements were the confequ«nce of thefe promo- 
 tions. Lieutenants Burney and Rickman (from the 
 Difcovery) were appointed firft and fecond Lieutenants 
 of the Refoktion ; and Lieutenant Williamfon. firft 
 Lieutenant of the Difcovery. Captain King, by _the 
 
 , pemiiffion 
 
 ^ \ 
 
 'i 
 
-*' 
 
 SP 
 
 A VOYAGE T O THE 
 
 mi h 
 
 .pcmiifTion of Captain Gore, took in four mldiliipm^n, 
 who had rendered tliemfelvesufeful to hlin in aftono- 
 •niical calculation ; »and whofe affiftance was become the 
 rinore neceflary, as we had not an ephemeris for the pre- 
 -font year. And, that aftronomical oblervations might 
 -not be negledled to be mado in either fliip, Mu Bayly 
 -took Captain King's place in the Refolution. 
 -f On the fame day, we weie attended by the worthy 
 :Prieft of Paratounca. His expreflions of forrow, at 
 1 the death of Captain Clerkcj did. honour to his feel- 
 ings. He confirmed what the Serjeant had related, 
 with regard ito the intended removal of the church, and 
 alTured us the timber was actually preparing; but lub- 
 mitted the choice of either place, entirely to Captain 
 
 f f^ 
 
 i Hi. 
 
 {•'■/ 
 
 ■Gore. ^J 'nf^ ■ '^ ty 
 ' 'rAs the Difcovery had fuiFered great injury: from the 
 :ice, efpeciaJly on the 23d of July, and had continued 
 exceedingly leaky ever fince, it was apprehended that 
 foine of her timbers might have ftartcd; the carpenters 
 of the Refolution were therefore fent to affift thofe of 
 tfe Difcovery In repairing her;, and they ^ccordirrgly 
 -began to rip the damaged fheathing' from the larboard 
 bow. It Vf25*!*^rc(wered.,by:thiseptninon, tl>at thre^ 
 'fefet of the third ftrake weVe ftaved, and tht tiflAbefs 
 'ftjjfhcd. To accOTimodate thofe who were fco be em- 
 "Tiiiloyed on fliore, a'tehtwai erected; artd a party was 
 fent into the country, north of the harbour, to' fell 
 •tiniber. The obfervatories were placed at the weft end 
 of the village, near which w^as ere€led a tedt, aS aiv 
 abode for the Captains Gore arid King. •■ ' >^ i- - 
 * On Sunday the 29th, in the s^fterrtoori, we per- 
 formed the lafl fad offices to Captain Clerke. The 
 ^officers and crew of the two veflels atteildid 'hith iti 
 tproceffion to the grave ; the ftiips, at the fSiii^ ' time, 
 •firing minute guns; and, at the concldfitfri of the fer- 
 •Vice, three vollies vv^ere iired by the maHneis. The 
 body was interred under a tree, which fVanxis on a lit- 
 tle eminence in the valley north of the hslrbour, wliere 
 the florchoufes and hofpital are fituated; this bein^, as 
 Captain Gore fupppled, fuch a ^tuatioi> ^s was'moft 
 : :'. ■ confonant 
 
P A C I. r I C OCEAN. 
 
 333: 
 
 in aftono- 
 ►ecome the 
 or the prC' 
 ons might 
 ^r. Bayly 
 
 le worthy 
 forrovv, at 
 i his feel- 
 kd Related, 
 lurch, and 
 ; but lulb' 
 o Captain 
 
 jr:from the 
 coiUinued 
 ended that 
 carpenters 
 ft thofe <af 
 ccordin'gly 
 e larboam 
 t]»at t"me« 
 
 to be em- 
 party was 
 sr, to fell 
 I'e weft end 
 sdt^ a^ at^ 
 
 i, we per- 
 rke. Ihe 
 kl 'hfth ill 
 
 if the fer- 
 nes. The 
 s on a lit- 
 ouf, \diere 
 s bein^, as 
 was' moft 
 confonant 
 
 confonant to the wifies of the. deceafed. The Prleft 
 of Paratounca alfo recommended thi& > fpot, imaginings 
 it would be very near the centenof the new chiltcW 
 This worthy paftor joined in the proceffion, walking^ 
 wlthi the gentleman who t ead the fervice. All the Ruf*^ 
 fians in thegarrifon aflembled on the occafion, and re- 
 fp.edlfuUy aififted inthe folemnity. 
 
 From this time to the 30th of September, all hand* 
 were employed in preparing the fhips for the remamder 
 of their voyage, the Ruflians having fupplied us with 
 fuch neceflaries as: that, part of the world afforded. ThiS' 
 day Captain Gore ordered Captain King to get the ftiips 
 out of the harbour, that they might be in readinef's to- 
 fail*; This, however, was prevented, by a violent gale of 
 wind on the ift of October, which continued the 
 whole day; but, on the 2d, both the velTels warped out' 
 of the harbour, and anchored in feven fathoms water,' 
 about a quarter of a mile from the ojlrog. The day be-^ 
 fore we quitted tho harbour, fome cattle from Veix^hnei 
 arrived; and, that the men might have the full ehjoy- 
 ment of this feafonably fupply, by eating it whilft it 
 was frelli. Captain Gore determined to ftay in the-- 
 fame ftation five or fix* day^ longer. ^ 
 
 This time was far from being mifapplied; for the 
 pumps, fiiils, and rigging of each ftiip received an addi- 
 tional repair. Captain King, having obtained per- 
 mifiion to ufe the copper belonging to the Refoktion, 
 Captain. Gore, was enabled to bfew a fufficient (Quan- 
 tity of beer to laft the crew a fortnight, and to make 
 ten additional puncheons of ftrong fpfoce eflence. This 
 fupply was the more acceptable, as our laft calk of fpi- 
 rits was now ferving out, ' except a fniall quantity re-' 
 ferved for , cafes of emergency.' '"• ^'"^ '^ ' '' '^ " '^ '"*^' 
 
 On the,6thand.7tliof Oaober,' the api^earance of 
 foul Aveathfir prevented our unmooring ; but on the 8th, 
 w^ failed towards the mouth of the bay, and all the 
 boats were hoifted in [ but our progrefs was ftopped by' 
 the wind, veering to the fouth, which obliged us to drop 
 another, the qfirog bearing north; at the diftance of half 
 aleague. ■ r— ^^^f^n> ?rHr ijr 7;'^'^.^ a., x . ^ 
 
 I \ 
 
it .' ' 
 
 334 A V0YAOE TO TITE 
 
 ^^ At four in the afternoon of the 9th we again tin- 
 moored ; but, whllft we were raifing our laft anchor, 
 we were informed that the drummer of marines had fled 
 from the boat, which had juft left the village, and that 
 he had been lately feen with a Kamtfchadale woman, to 
 whom he was known to have been much attached, and 
 who had frequently importuned him to flay behind. 
 This man was entirely ufelefs to us, having been ren- 
 dered lame by a fwelling in his knees ; and, on that very 
 account. Captain King was the more unwilling to leave 
 him behind- left he iliould become a miferable burden 
 to himfelf, as well as to the Ruffians. He therefore 
 applied to the ferjeant to fend parties of his men in 
 purfuit of him; and, in the mean time, the Tailors 
 viiited a well-known haunt of his in the neighbour- 
 hood, where the drummer and his woman were found 
 together. On the return of our deferter, we weighed 
 anchor, and itnmediately followed the Refolution. 
 
 We fhall Kjw give a fliort defcription of the penin- 
 fula of Kamtfchatka, which is iitnated on the eaflern 
 coaft of Afia, and extends from 52** to 61^ north lati- 
 tude ; the longitude of its extremity to the fouth being 
 156^ 45° eaft. This ifthmus, joining it to the conti- 
 nent on the north, lies between the gulphs of Olutorfk 
 and Penihinfk. Its extremity to the fouth is Cape 
 Lopatka ; fo called from its refembling the blade-bone of 
 a man, which is the flgnification of that word. The 
 whole peninfula is fomewhat in the form of a (hoe; 
 and its greateft breath is two hundred and thirty-fix 
 computed miles, being from the mouth of the river 
 Tigil to that of the river Kamtlchatka; and, towards 
 each extremity, it gradually becomes narrower. 
 
 We no where perceived the fmalleft fpot of ground, 
 that had the appearance of a good gicpen turf, or that 
 feemed capable of improvement by cultivation. Stunted 
 trees were thinly fcattered over the whole face of the 
 country, whofe bottoms were mofly, with a mixture of 
 low heath ; the whole refembling Newfoundland in a 
 moft ftriking degree. 
 
 The feverity of the climate, it may naturally be 
 
 ^ fuppofed, 
 
 
 ■ ; t 
 
 : •■ 1: 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK. 
 
 33^ 
 
 igain tin* 
 I anchor, 
 is had fled 
 t and that 
 ^oman, to 
 :hed, and 
 Y behind. 
 )een ren- 
 that very 
 g to leave 
 e burden 
 therefore 
 men in 
 he failors 
 eighbour- 
 ere found 
 ! weighed 
 tion. 
 
 he penin- 
 le eaftern 
 lorth lati- 
 lUth being 
 the conti- 
 Olutorfk 
 I is Cape 
 le-bone of 
 >rd. The 
 ►f a (hoe; 
 thirty-fix 
 the river 
 y towards 
 er, 
 
 if ground, 
 F, or that 
 [. Stunted 
 ice of the 
 mixture of 
 Hand in a 
 
 Rurally be 
 fuppofed, 
 
 fuppofed, mufl be in proportion to the flerility of the 
 foil, of which it is perhaps the caufe. . In computing 
 the feafons here, fpring fhould certainly be omitted. 
 Summer may be faid to extend from the middle of June, 
 till the middle of September; Odlober may be con- 
 fidered as autumn ; from wliich period to the middle of 
 June, it is all dreary winter. 
 
 Among the principal trees which fell under our no- 
 tice, are the birch, the poplar, the alder, feveral fmali 
 fpecies of the willow, and two forts of dwarfifh cedars. 
 One of thefe forts grows upon the coaft, feldom ex- 
 ceeding two teet in height, and creeping upon the 
 ground. Of this our eflence for beer was made, and 
 proved to be very proper for the purpofe : the other, 
 which grows much higher, is found on the mountains, 
 and bears a kind of nut or apple. 
 
 This peninfula produces great abundance of the (hrub 
 kind, as moVintain afh, junipers, rafberry-bufhes, and 
 wild rofe trees. Alfo a variety of berries, as partridge- 
 berries, blue-berries, black-berries, cran-berries, and 
 crow-berries. Thefe are gathered at proper feafons, 
 and preferved by mafhing them into a thick jam. They 
 conflitute a confiderable part of their winter provifions,' 
 ferving as a general fauce to their dried fifh. They 
 alfo eat them in puddings, and in various other modes ; 
 and make decodlions of them for their common beve- 
 rage. V v ■ 
 
 We found great quantities of wholefome vegetables 
 in a wild ftate, fuch as chervil, garlic, onions, angelica, 
 and wild celery. We alfo met with fome excellent tur- 
 nips, and turnip-radifhes, upon a few fpots of ground in 
 the vallies. I'his was the utmofl extent of their gar- 
 den cultivation. , ' : • ^ /J c 
 
 The mofl general objedl of the chace was for foxes, 
 with which this CQUjitry abounds, and among which are 
 a variety of colours. The mofl common (pecies is the 
 fame as the European, but their calours are more vivid 
 andfhining. ' 4- - ^ -♦ - ; Mt.N^-Hi' ,^D^r'. 
 
 Fifh is certainly theflaple article of food among the 
 
 inhabitants of this peninfula; who cannot poffibly de- 
 
 „ ' ' . rive 
 
 ll 
 
I't 
 
 }^<-i 
 
 Sv5-S'( 
 
 
 336 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 rive any cooiiclerable part of their iuflenaiic^ either 
 from agriculture or cattle. The loil,- indeed, aUbrJs 
 ilimewholefoirie roots, and every part of the country 
 pv^ucss great quantities of berifi^s; but thefe alffne 
 could ndt poffibly fupport the inhabitants; though they 
 are extremely fakitary, as being prdper correctives of 
 the putrefcent quality of their principardiet, dried fifli. 
 In ihort, fifti may here be called the ftaff of lifc^ 
 with more propriety than bread in any other country; 
 for neither the inhabitants, nor their domeftic animals 
 of the canine fpccies, could poflibly exift without it. '<^ ' 
 The inhabitants of Kamtfchatka may be faid to con- 
 fift of three forts, 1 he Kamtfchadales; the* Ruffians, 
 and Coflhcks ; and a mixture produced by theit inter- 
 marriages. We are informed by Mr. Steljer, whif was 
 long relident in this country, and who was indefatiga- 
 ble in endeavouring to acquire knowledge on this fub- 
 jedV, that the Kamtfchadales are people of remote anti- 
 quity, and have inhabited this pbninfula for many 
 ages ; and that they doubtlefs' defcended from the 
 Mungalians : though fome have imagined they fpratig 
 from tlie Tongufian Tartars, and others from the Japa- 
 
 The government eftabliihed ovet this country by th<? 
 Ruffians, confidered as a military one, is rerharkably 
 mild and equitable. The natives are fuffer^d to ele<5l 
 their own magiftrates in their own mode, who exercife 
 the fame powers they have ever been accufton^d to. 
 One of thefe, called a Toion, prefides over each ojlrogy 
 to whom all difFerences are referred; and who awards 
 iines and punishments for all offences and mifdemea- 
 nors ; referring to the governor of Kamtfchatka, thofe 
 which are the molt intricate and enormous, not 
 choofing to decide upon them himfelf. The ^o'lon alfo 
 appoints a civil officer under him, called i corporal, 
 who affifls him in his duty, and officiates for him in his 
 abfence. : o;';,U';j> -^ :,-.;•■• .•.;;/: '.',7- -..'.^-■- 
 
 An edi6t has been ilTued by the Emprefs Df Ruffia, 
 
 that no offence iliall be punifhable with death. But 
 
 we are told^ that, iiv cafes of murder (which rearly hap- 
 
 r ' pens 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN 
 
 • * 
 
 uci eithef 
 ^d, affords 
 \e cotiutry 
 hete* atfme 
 lOugh they 
 redtives of 
 dried Mu 
 
 ff of lifl^ 
 
 : country ; 
 
 :ic animals 
 
 lOUt it. 
 
 lid to con- 
 
 RuflTians, 
 
 heit 'inter- 
 
 , wh'dFwas 
 
 indefatiga- 
 
 n this fub- 
 
 ntiote anti- 
 
 for many 
 
 from the 
 
 !hey fprang 
 
 n the Japa- 
 
 itnr by the 
 remarkably 
 M to eleA 
 ho exercife 
 ftomcd to. 
 ;ach o/irogj 
 7ho awards 
 mifdemea- 
 atka, thofe 
 mous, not 
 J Toion alfo 
 i corporal, " 
 r him in his 
 
 Df Ruflia, 
 eath. But 
 rearly hap- 
 pens 
 
 337 
 
 pens here) the knout is infli(5led with fuch feverity, that 
 
 the oiFciulcr leldom furvives the punifhment. 
 
 in fome diltric'b, the only tiibute that is exacSled, i? 
 a fox's Ikin; in others, a fable's; and, in the KuHIq 
 illtt!, a fca otter's; but, as the latter is confiderably 
 more valuable, the tribute of feveral perfons is paid 
 with a fingU) fkiii. The tribute is colIe6^ed by tlie Toions, 
 in the ditFerent diflridls, and is fo inconlulerable, as 
 hardly to be confidercd in any other light, than a^ an 
 acknowlt'dgement of the Rufllun dominion over them. 
 
 The Ruflians arc not only to be conuiicnded for the 
 mildnefs of their government, but are alio entitled to 
 applauie for their iuccefsiful cncli.Mvours in converting the 
 natives to ChriAianity ; there being now but very few 
 idolaters remai<iing among them. It may be necefTary 
 to obferve, that the religion inculcated here, is tliat of 
 the Cireek church, in many of the o/Irogs^ fre(?-fchooI.s 
 are eftablifhed, for the iniirui^^ion of the natives and Cof- 
 fucks in the Ruffian langunge. 
 
 'J'he articles exported from this country confiil entire-^ 
 ly of furs, and this bullncfs is principally condudled by 
 a company of merchants, appointed by the Emprel's. 
 'I'welv^e was the number of them originally, but thr<"@ 
 have fmce been added to them. I'efides certain privi- 
 leges allowed them, they are diftinguiflied by wearing a 
 gold medal, expreflive of the Emprefs's protediofi of 
 the fur trade. I'here are othv'^r inferior traders, ch'efly 
 Co/Tacks, in different ])arts of the country. WhiliV 
 the principal merchants remain here, they refile either 
 at Bolcheretflv, or the Nijfhnei ofirog the trade center- 
 ing entirely in thofe two places. This bufmefs was for- 
 merly carried en wholly in the way of barter, but 
 ever-; article is at prefent purchaied with ready money-, 
 no inconfklerahle quantity of fpecie being circulated in 
 that wretched country. The furs produce a high price; 
 and the natives^, from their mode of life, require few ar- 
 ticles in return. Our failors brought a quantity of furs 
 fTom the coait of America, and were both pleafed and 
 afloniflied on receiving fuch a quantity of filver for 
 them froift the merchants ; but, as they could not pur- 
 
 Q^ chalis 
 
Iff pi .<' i 
 
 \mM\ 
 
 liiiptn"' 
 
 
 f :i': 
 
 iff«;;;f^« 
 
 
 '33^ 
 
 A' VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 chafe gin dr¥dbacco with It, or any thing elfe that would 
 afford them any; degree of entertainment, the roubles 
 were loon confidered as troublefome companions, and 
 tl;iey were frequently employed in kicking them about 
 the deck. Our men received thirty roubles of a mer- 
 chant, for a fea-otter's Ikin, and in the fame proportion 
 for others ; but, underftanding they had great quanti- 
 ties to difpofe of, and perceiving that they were unac- 
 quainted with traffic, he afterwards procured them at a 
 jnuch cheaper rate. 
 
 European articles are the principal that are imported, 
 but they are not folely confined to Ruffian manufac- 
 tures. They come from England, Holland, Siberia, 
 Bucharia, the Calmucks, and China. They chiefly 
 confifl: of coarfe woollen and linen cloths, ftockings, 
 bonnets, and gloves ; thin Perfian filks, pieces of nan- 
 keen, cottons, handkerchiefs, both of filk and cotton ; 
 iron ftoves, brafs and copper oans, files guns, powder 
 and {hot; hatchets, knives, looking-glalfes, lugar, flour, 
 boots, &c. We faw many of theCe articles in the pofTef- 
 fion of one of the merchants, who came from Okotf]^ 
 in the Emprefs's galliot. Thefe commodities, we ob- 
 ' ferved, fold for three times the fum they might have 
 been purchafed for in England. And, notwithftanding 
 the merchants have lb extravagant a profit upon thefe 
 imported goods, they receive IHU a greater ad viintage 
 from the fale of the furs at Kiachta, a confiderable 
 market for them on the frontiers of China. In Kamtf- 
 chatka, the befl fea-otter {\uns uiually produce about 
 thirty roubles a-piece; at Kiachta, the Clii'iefe mer- 
 chant gives more than double that price, and (iifpet'^s of 
 t]iv:m again at Pckin for a much greater fum ; after 
 wiiich, an additional profit is made of many of them 
 at Japan. If, then, the original value of a ll<.in at 
 Kamtlchatka is thirty roubles, and it is afterwards 
 rranfported to Okotik, thence by land thirteen hun- 
 tired and fixty-tbur miles tu Kiachta, thence feven 
 hundred and i?xty miles to Pekin, and after that, to be 
 Kanlported to Japatj, what a lucrative trade might be 
 
 ellabliilied 
 
 .y - 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 339 
 
 that would 
 the roubles 
 mions, and 
 :hem about 
 ;s of a mer- 
 : proportion 
 eat quanti- 
 were unac- 
 ;d them at a 
 
 re imported, 
 in manufac- 
 nd, Siberia, 
 >xey chiefly 
 5, ftockings, 
 xes of nan- 
 and cotton; 
 .ins, powder 
 fugar, flour, 
 in the pofTef- 
 Tom Okotfk 
 ties, we ob- 
 might have 
 withftanding 
 : upon thefe 
 er advantage 
 confiderable 
 In Kamtf- 
 ■oduce about 
 Zhii-iefe mer- 
 id difpoies of 
 r fum ; after 
 iny of them 
 )f a ll<.in at 
 s afterwards 
 irteen hun- 
 thence feven 
 r that, to be 
 .de might l)e 
 elbbliflicd 
 
 eflablillied between Kamtfchatka and Japan, which is 
 not above three weeks fail from it, at the utmoft ? 
 
 , It may be neceflary to obferve, that the principal and 
 mofl valuable part of the fur trade, lies among the 
 iilancls between Kamtfchatka and America. Beering 
 tirll difcGvered thefe in 1741, and as they were found 
 to abound with fea-otters, the Ruilian merchants 
 fought anxioufly for the other illands feen by that na- 
 vigator, fouth-eaft of Kamtichatka, named in Muller's 
 map tlie iilands ot St. Abraham, Seduction, 6cc, They 
 fell in with no lefs than three groups of iflands, in tliele 
 expeditions, I'he firfi:, about fifteen degrees eaft of 
 Kamtfchatka; another twelve degrees eait of thefoi-mer; 
 and theth;.;'l,Oonalafhka,andtlie neighbouring iflands. 
 I'hefe mercantile adventurers alio proceeded as far as 
 Shumagin's Iflands, of which Kodiak is the largeft. 
 But here they met with ib warm a reception, ^or at- 
 tempthig to compel the payment of a tribute, that they 
 never ventured fo far again. The three groups beforu 
 mentioned, however, were made tributary. The whole 
 fea between Kamtfchatka and America is, according to 
 tlie Ruflian charts, covered with iflands; for, as thofe 
 who were engaged in thefe expeditions, frequently fell 
 in with land, which they fuppofed did not tally with 
 the Situation laid down by preceding adventures, they 
 immediately fuppofed it to be a new difcovery, and re- 
 ported it accordingly on their return; and, as thefe 
 veiTels were ufualiy out three or four years, and fome- 
 times longer, fuch miflakes could not immediately be 
 rectified. It is pretty certain, however, that only 
 thofe iflands which have been enumerated, have been 
 difcovered in that fea, by the Ruflians, fouth of 60*^ 
 latitude. 
 
 The fea-otter fl^ins, which are certainly the mofl: va- 
 luable article in the fur trade, are principally drawn 
 from thele iflands; which being now under the Ruifian 
 dominion, the merchants have fadors reflding in fettle- 
 ments there, for the fole purpofe of bartering with the 
 natives. To extend this trade, an eApedition was fitted 
 out by the Admiralty of Okotflt, to make difcoveries 
 
 0,2 to 
 
340 
 
 to Y AGE TO THE 
 
 w-i:' 
 
 to the north and north-eaft of the above-mentioned 
 iilands, and the command of it given to Lieutenant 
 Synd. But, as this gentleman diredled his courfe too 
 far north, he did not fucceed in the objedl of his voy- 
 age ; for, as we never found a fea-otter north of Briiiol 
 bay, they, perhaps, avoid thofe latitudes where large 
 amphibious fea-animals are numerous. The Ruffians 
 have not fnice undertaken any expedition for making 
 difcoverieS to the eaftward; but they will, probably, 
 make an advantageous ufe of our difcovery of Cook's 
 river. Notv^ithltanding the general intercourre be- 
 tween the natives, the Ruffi-ins, and CoiTiicks, the for- 
 mer are as much diftinguillied from the latter by their 
 habits and difpolitions, a€ by their features and general 
 figure. 
 
 The htibitations of the natives confifl of three dif- 
 tin6l forts; their Jourts^ halagans, and log-houfes^ which 
 are here called ifbas ; they inhabit the firll: in the win- 
 ter, and the fecond in the fummer ; the third are Intro- 
 duced by the Ruffians, wherein only the wealthier peo- 
 ple refide. The jaurts are thus conftrudled : A kind 
 of oblong fquare is dug about fix feet deep in the earth; 
 the dimenfions mull be proportioned to the numbers 
 who are to inhabit it, for it is ufual .or feveral to live 
 together in the fame jourt. Strong wooden pofts or pil- 
 lars, faflened in the ground, at equal diftances from 
 trch other, on which the beams intended to fupport 
 the roof are extended; which is formed by joifts, one 
 end of which refls upon the'ground, and the other on 
 the beams. Between the joills, the interflices are filled 
 tip with wicker work, and turf is fpread over the whole. 
 The external appearance of a Jourt, refenibles a round 
 fquat hillodk. A hole, ferving for a chimney, winuow, 
 and door, is left in the center, and the inhabitants go 
 in and out by the affiflance of a long pole, having 
 notches deep enough to afford a little fecurity for the 
 toe. On the fide, and even with the ground, there is 
 another entrance, appropriated to the ufe of the women; 
 but if a man pafTes in or out of this door, he becomes a< 
 
 much 
 
 ifiiii 
 
mentioned 
 Licutcnart 
 courfe too 
 of his voy- 
 i of Brillol 
 here large 
 le Ruffians 
 or making 
 probably, 
 of Cook's 
 •courfe be- 
 s, the for- 
 er by their 
 md general 
 
 three dif- 
 ifes, which 
 n the whD' 
 •d are intro- 
 althier peo- 
 ;d : A kind 
 n the earth ; 
 le numbers 
 eral to live 
 pofts or pi!- 
 mces from 
 
 to fupport 
 • joifts, one 
 he other on 
 ces are filled 
 r the whole, 
 les a round 
 ey, window, 
 habitarits go 
 :)()le, having 
 irity for the 
 nd, there is 
 the women; 
 i becomes a« 
 much 
 
 i\r 
 
 iJ>^.fK'\ 
 
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 M 
 
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 fr 
 
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 W^/^^miK^ ' ^ ' WjB 
 
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 S^hI^H 
 
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 HHmi 
 
 ft5 
 
 l^^l^^lwl 
 
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 K 
 
 
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 ►.» 
 
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 ^^ 
 
 |BMa 
 
 ^ 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 341 
 
 much an ohje^l of ridicule, as a failor who defcends 
 through hibber's hole, 
 
 A joifrt confifts of one apartment, forming an ob^ 
 long fquare. Broad platforms, made of boards, are ex- 
 teiidul alojio the fides, at the height of about fix inches 
 from tiie ground; which ferve them for fitting on, and 
 on vvliich they repofe, firft tsking care to cover them 
 with mats and f^ins. The fire-place is on one fide, 
 and, on the other, their provifions and culinary iitenhk 
 are ftowcd. When they make tntertainmeiit>, the- 
 complimtiit is confidered in proportion to the heat of 
 the jourtSy the better they are made, the more griiciou-s 
 is the reception of the guefls confideied. We always 
 found them fo extremely hot as to be intolerable. 
 'I'hey generally retire to the jourts about the middle of 
 O^ober. and continue in them till the month of May 
 is RiMC than half expired. 
 
 To eredt a halagan^ nine pcfts are fixed intO' tlie 
 earthy in three regular rows, at equal diftances from 
 each other, to the height of about twelve or fhirteeii 
 feet from the fur face. About ten feet from the ground^ 
 rafters are laid from poft to poft, and fecurely faftened 
 by ftrong rope*. The joifts are laid upon thefe rafters, 
 and a turf covering completes the platform or floor of 
 the balagan. A roof of a conical figure is raifed upon 
 this, by means of long poles, which are faftened to the 
 rafters at one end, and meet together in a point at the 
 top. The whole is covered, or rather thatched, with a 
 coarfe kind ©f grafs. Thefe fummer habitations have 
 two doors, placed directly oppofite to each other, to 
 which I hey afcend by the fame kind of ladders that are 
 ufi'd in the 'wurts. In the lowe: part, which is leften- 
 tirsrly open, diey dry their iifl), vegetables, and other 
 articles mtendul for the confumption of the winter. 
 Though fix families ufually live together in one joiirt, 
 a balagan is feldom occupied by more than one at a 
 time. 
 
 The ;/7a/s or log boiifcs, nr3 thus erecf^ed : Long tim- 
 bers are i)i]ed horizontally, with the cads let mto each 
 
 I, 
 
 I ii 
 
 other, and the learns are 
 
 filled 
 0,3 
 
 up or c 
 
 aulkcd with mols. 
 
'iii 
 
 il 
 
 IS! 
 
 U\ 
 
 342 - A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Like thofe of our common cottages, the roof is Hoping, 
 and thatched either with grafs or ru/hes. Each log-* 
 hoiife has three apartments in the infide. One end may- 
 be faid to be a kind of entry, which extends the whole 
 width and height of the houfe, and feems to be a kind of 
 receptacle for their bulky articles, as fledges, harnefs, 
 &c. This has a communication with the befl: apart- 
 ment, which is in the middle, and is furnifhed with 
 broad benches, calculated both for eating and fleeping 
 upon, A door leads from this into the kitchen, almofl 
 half of which is taken up with an oven, or fire-place; 
 which is let into the wall that feparates the middle 
 apartment and the kitchen, and is fo confl;ru6led as to 
 communicate the heat to both rooms at the fame time. 
 There are two lofts over the kitchen and middle apart- 
 ment, to which the inhabitants afcend by a ladder 
 placed in the entry for that purpofe. Each apartment 
 lias two fmall windows made of taic, and, among the 
 inferior people, of fifh-fkin. The boards and beams of 
 their habitations, are fmoothed only with a hatchet, for 
 they are flrangers to the plane; and the fmoke has ren- 
 dered them of a deep fhining black. 
 
 A town is called an cjlrog in Kamtfchatka, and con- 
 lifts of feveral houfes or habitations of the various kinds 
 above mentioned. Balagans are confiderably the mofl 
 numerous ; and it is remarkable, th^t we never faW a- 
 houfe of any kind that was detached from an o/iro^,' 
 There are, in St. Peter and St. Paul, feven log houfeS,* 
 nineteen balagansj and three jourts. 
 
 The upper garment of the Kamtfchadales refembles 
 that of a waggoner's frock. If for fu turner wear, it is 
 made of nankeen ; if intended for winter, it is made of 
 a fl<:in, (generally that of a deer or dog) having one fide 
 tanned, and the hair preferved on the other, which is 
 worn innermoft. A clofe jacket of nankeen, or fome 
 other cotton {kv.^^ is the next under this; and beneath 
 that, a iliirt made of thin Perfian filk, of a red, blue, or 
 yellow colour. 'Ihey wear alfo a pr.ir of long breeches, 
 or tight trowfers, of leather, reaching below the calf of- 
 the leg. They have likewife a pair of boots, made of' 
 
 dog 
 
floping, 
 ach log- 
 end may- 
 be whole 
 a kind of 
 harnefs, 
 ft apart- 
 led with 
 fleeping 
 n, ahnofl 
 e-place ; 
 middle 
 ed as to 
 me time, 
 le apart- 
 a ladder 
 >artment 
 long the 
 jeams of 
 tchet, for 
 has ren- 
 
 and con- 
 •us kinds 
 ;he mofl 
 sr f:iW a 
 
 ; hou^eV 
 e(emhIes 
 •ar, it is 
 made of 
 one Tide 
 'hich is ^ 
 3r fome v 
 beneath ' 
 bhie, or 
 reeches, 
 ! calf of'- 
 nade of' 
 dog 
 
 •HP- 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. \ 343 
 
 dog or deer fkin, with the hair innermoft. They have a 
 fur cap, having two flaps that are ufually tied up clofe ta 
 the liead, but are permitted to fall round the flioulders 
 in bad weather. '. r : .■•r-f^t «/ 
 
 The people, fituated to the north and fouth of this 
 country, being but impertetflly known, we fhall give 
 fuch information as we have been able to acquire, 
 refpedling the Kurile iflands, and the Koreki and 
 Tfchutiki. ^.. . : 'f •' '• '.? 
 
 The Kuriles are a chain of iflands, extending from la- 
 titude 51° 1045^^, lunning from the fouthern promon- 
 tory of Kamtichatka to Japan, in a fouth-weft direc- 
 tion. The inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Lo- 
 patka, who were themfelves called Kuriles, gave thefe 
 iflands the fame name, as foon as they became ac- 
 quainted with them. Spanberg fays they are twenty- 
 two in number, excluflve of the very fmall ones. The 
 northernmoft ifland, which is called Shoomflta, is about 
 three leagues diftant from the promontory Lopatka, its 
 inhabitants confiftin<:^ of a mixture of natives and 
 Kamtfchadales. Tlie next, which is named Paramou- 
 fir, is conliderably larger than Shoomlka, and is inha- 
 bited by the real natives; whofe anceftors, they fay, 
 came from an iilarid, called Onecutan, a little farther to 
 the fouth. The Ruffians paid their firft vifit to thefe 
 iflands in 1 7 1 3, and added it to the dominions of the Em- 
 prefs. The others, as far as Ooflieiheer inclufive, are 
 now made tributary. * : T ••. :.i- • yt; ■;-:...: ...^ .,'4 
 
 Many of the inhabitants of thofe iflands that are 
 imder the dominion of RuflTia, are now converted to 
 Chriflianity. And perhaps the time is not far diflant, 
 when an advantageous commerce will be carried on be- 
 tween Kanitfchatka and this extenfive chain of iflands, 
 which may afterwards produce a communication with 
 Japan itfelf. The advantages that muft infallibly ac- 
 crue to theRuflians by eftabhlhing a commerce with 
 the Japanefe, are fufficiently obvious. 
 
 The Koreki country confifls of two diftin£l nations, 
 
 which are called the wandering and fixed Koriacs. 
 
 Part of the iilhmus of Kamtfchatka is inhabited by the 
 
 ;f A 0^4 former, 
 
 ■(f 
 
344 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Uli 
 
 former, as well as all the coaft of the Eaftern Ocean, 
 from thence totheAnadir. The nation of the wandering 
 Koriacs extends weft ward towards the river Kovynia, 
 and along the north-eaft of the fea of Okotfk, as far as 
 the river Penfkina. ,, 
 
 The refemblance between the fixed Koriacs, and the 
 Kamtfchadales, is very flriking; both countries too de- 
 pejid alike on filliing for fubiiflence. I'heir clothing 
 and habitations aie equally fioiilar. The fixed Kotiacs 
 are under the diftrid^ of the Ingiga, and are tributary to 
 R\2ffia, 
 
 1 he wandering Koriacs are wholly employed in 
 f^reeding and pafturing deer, and are faid to have im- 
 menfe numbers in their pofleffion; it being common for 
 a fingle chief to have u herd of four or five thoufand. 
 Deer is the food they fubfift upon, aud have an averfion 
 To every kind of fiHi. They erecft no balagans'y their 
 only habitations being fomewhat like the Kamtfchadale 
 jourfs^ except that, in winter, they are covered with 
 raw deer-ikins; and, in fummer, with fuch as have been 
 tanned. Their fledges are drawn only by deer, and 
 thcle which are ufed in drawing them feed in the fame 
 paflure with the others. If they are wanted, the herdf- 
 man makes ufe of a certain cry which is familiar to 
 them, which they obey by quitting the heard immedi- 
 ately. 
 
 The country inhabited by the Tlchutfki, is bounded 
 by the Anadir on the fouth, and extends to the Tfchutf- 
 ko Nofs. Their attention, like that of the wandering 
 Koriacs, is confined chiefly to their deer, with which 
 their country abounds. They are a courageous, well- 
 made, warlike race of people; and arc formidable 
 neighbours to the Koriacs of both nations, who o^ten 
 experience their depredations. The Ruflians havelqng 
 endeavoured to bring them under their dominion; and 
 tho^^gh they have loft a great number of men in their 
 different expeditions to accompliili this purpofc, they 
 have never yet been able to effe(^ it. 
 
 Let us now return to the profccution of future difco- 
 
 verics. As the Lords of the Admiralty, in the in- 
 
 r ,. .,- ^ ftru(5lions 
 
fn Ocean, 
 
 hindering 
 
 iKovyma, 
 
 as far as 
 
 and tliti 
 ^s too de- 
 clothing 
 
 Kotiacs 
 Ibutary to 
 
 loyed in 
 have ini- 
 Tinion for 
 thou fa nd. 
 averfion 
 ifis; their 
 itfchadale 
 jred with 
 have been 
 deer, and 
 the fame 
 the herdf- 
 miJiar to 
 I immedi- 
 
 1 bounded 
 Tfcliutf- 
 andering 
 h which 
 us, well- 
 rmidable 
 bo often 
 lave^lqng 
 ton; and 
 in their 
 >fc, they 
 
 re difco- 
 the in- 
 
 ru(51ions 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 •345 
 
 ftru6lions which they Jiad givtn for the regulaition of 
 the prefent voyage, had eritrufted the commanding 
 officer ot the expedition with a dilcretionary power, in 
 cafe of not fucceeding in the difcovery or a parage 
 from the Pacific Ocean into the Atlantic^ to make 
 choice, in his rsturn to England, of whatever route 
 he fhould judge bcil adapted for the improvement of 
 geography; Cap^^ in Gore defired that the princi- 
 pal offices would deliver their fentiments, in writing, 
 relative i the mode in which thefe inftrudlions might 
 moft efFe6lualIy be carried into execution. The refult 
 of their opinions, which, to his great fatisfadlion, he 
 found unanimous, and perfedlly agreeing withhisovvn, 
 was, that the condition of our veflels, of the (ails, 
 cordage, &c. rendered it hazardous and unfafe to make 
 any aitemjit, as the wir^ter was now approaching, tonar 
 vigate- the fea between Afia and Japan, which would 
 otherwife have opened to us the moft copious field for 
 difcovery ; that it was therefore moft prudent to fleer to 
 the eaiiward of that ifland : and, in our way thither, 
 to fail along the Kuriles, and examine, in a moft parti- 
 cular manner, thofe iflands that are fituated nearefl to 
 the northern coaft: of Japan, which are faid to be of 
 confidc^rable extent, and not fubje6i: to the Ruffians or 
 Japauefe. Should we have the^'gbod fortune to meet 
 with fome fecure and commodious harbours in any of 
 thefe iflands, we fuppofed ^-hey rr^rht prove of con^ 
 fiderahie importance, as convenient places of Shelter 
 for fubfequent navigators, who might be employed in 
 txploring the feas, or as the means of producing a com- 
 mercial in*ercourfe among the adjacent dominions of 
 th^ two above-mentioned empires. Our next obje(ft.was 
 to 'take a furvey of the'coails of the Japanefe ifles; 
 
 jjift'ei' which, we defigned td make the coafl of China, as 
 '■&5 tithe north as' was incur power, and proceed along 
 
 *itlo Macao. - ■" 
 
 ^•'^ *rhk plan of operations being adopted, Captain 
 King was ordered by Captain Gore, in cafe the two 
 iiiips fhould feparate, to repair without delay to Macao; 
 and on ;hc 9th of October, about fiX g'clock in the 
 
 O c afternoon. 
 
f : 
 
 15 I ' 
 
 346 ' A VOYAGE TOT HE 
 
 afternoon, having cleared the entrance of the bay of 
 Awatfka, we made fail to the fouth-eaft, the wind 
 blowing from the north-weft and by weft. 
 
 On Monday the nth, at noon, we were in the 
 latitude of 52° 4^, and in the longitude of 158° 31''. 
 We were now at the diftance of nine or ten miles from 
 the neareft part of the coaft, and perceived the whole 
 inland country covered with fnovv. A point of land 
 towards the ibuth, conftituted the northern fide of a 
 deep bay, diftinguiflied by the name of Achachin- 
 ilvoi, in whofe diftant bottom we imagined that a large 
 river difcharged itfelf, as the land behind appeared re- 
 markably low. To the fouthward of Achachinfkoi 
 Bay, the land did not exhibit fuch a rugged and bar- 
 ren afpedl, as was obfervable in that part of the coun- 
 try which we had before pafTed. 
 
 On the 13th at break of day, we defcried the fe- 
 cond of the Kurile Iflands, named Paramoufir by the 
 Ruffians, extending from weft half fouth to north- 
 weft by weft. This land was exceedingly high, and 
 almoft wholly covered with fnow. Our latitude, at 
 this time, was 49° 49^, and our longitude 157°* 
 We obferved, in the courfe of the day, feveral 
 whales, and a confiderable number of albatrofles and 
 gulls. 
 
 The ifland of Paramoufir is the largeft of the Ku- 
 Tiles that arc fubjedl to the dominion of the Ruffians; 
 and is worthy of a more accurate furvey than we were 
 on this occafion enabled to take. For, in the after- 
 noon, the wefterly wind increafing to a brifk gale, 
 it was not in our povv^er to make a nearer approacli to 
 it than we had made at noon; v/e were, therefore, 
 obliged to content ourfelves with endeavouring to de- 
 termine its pofition at that diftance. 
 
 While we were abi-eaft of Paramoufir, we had a S^ery 
 violent fwell from the noith-eaftvvard, though the 
 wind had continued for feme time in the weftern 
 quarter; a circumftance which more than once oc- 
 curred to our obfervation during the courfe of the 
 voyage. In the night we founded, but did not reach 
 
e bay of 
 he wind 
 
 in the 
 
 lies from 
 le whole 
 of land 
 Ide of a 
 chachin- 
 a large 
 a red re- 
 ichinlkoi 
 and bar- 
 he coun- 
 
 the fe- 
 
 ir by the 
 o north- 
 ^igh, and 
 itude, at 
 de 157^ 
 , feveral 
 ofles and 
 
 the Ku- 
 luflians; 
 we were 
 he after- 
 ifk gale, 
 roach to 
 '>erefore, 
 g to de- 
 
 PACiriC OCEAN..^ 
 
 ith £ft^ 
 
 347 
 
 d a very 
 
 gh tlie 
 
 Averrerii 
 
 nee oc- 
 
 of the 
 
 H reach 
 
 t^je 
 
 the bottom with £ftv fathomJ 
 lowing drp, the wnjd blowing freih from the weft, 
 obliged us to fteer to the fouthvvard, and contequent- 
 Jy prevented us from feeing any more of the Ku- 
 
 riles. ^ . :• ' . /■« , ..;/.;- , 
 
 The wind having veered, in the afternoon of the i6tli, 
 to the northward, we hauled round to the weft. In the 
 rouri'e of tins day we obferved feveralal batrofles, filmars, 
 and numerous flocks of gulls; we alio favv a number of 
 iiihy which were called grampufcs by our failors; but 
 we were rather inclined to judge, from the appearance of 
 thofe which paftTcd dole by our veflels, that they were the 
 kafatka, or fword-fifli, mentioned by KrafcheninicofF, 
 who has given a curious account of their mode of at- 
 tacking the whales. In the evening being vifited by 
 a fmall land bird, about the fize of a goldfinch, and 
 not unlike that bird in plumage and fhape, we thought 
 proper to keep a careful look-out for land. How- 
 ever, upon our trying for foundings at midnight, 
 we did not ftrike ground with forty-five fathoms of 
 line. - \ ': > i. . « i. .^ijj. 
 
 On the 1 8th, in the forenoon, we faw confiderable 
 quantities of rock-weed, from which, as well as from 
 the flights of birds already mentioned, we imagined 
 that the fouthernmoft of the Kurile Iflaiid, was. at no 
 great diftance from us; and, about the fame tiftie, the 
 wind fliifting to the fouthward, we Were enabled to 
 fteer for it, ' •: * ' .»•;':.) ..M^>' ' 
 
 An accident befel the Refolution in the afternoon of. 
 the 2ift; the leach-rope of her fore-topfail gave way, 
 and fplit the fail. As this had frequently happened: 
 during the life of Captain Cook, he had, on fuch oc- 
 cu^'vons, ordered the foot and leach-ropes of the top fails . 
 to he taken out, and larger ones to be fixed in their, 
 room; and thefe likewife proving iiKapable of fup- 
 porting the ftrain that ^vas on them, it manifeftly ap- 
 pears, that the juft p-o'^ortion of ftreagth between 
 the iuil and thofe ropes is extremely mifcukulated in our 
 
 fervice. 
 
 '1 *f^ 
 
 af> 
 
 :i.i.*^. 
 
 Being;. 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
 TEST TARGET (MT-3) 
 
 4* Sf 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.25 
 
 UilM 125 
 *i^ lU 12.2 
 
 St Ufi (12.0 
 
 u 
 
 
 [C 
 
 ScMices 
 Corporation 
 
 v 
 
 ,v 
 
 ^ 
 
 •SS 
 
 <> 
 
 ■ V 
 
 <^.V 
 
 >\>>. ^ 
 
 ^.v 
 
 ;\ 
 
 33 WIST MAIN STRiiT 
 
 WIUTM.N.Y. MStO 
 
 (71«) •73-4S03 
 
 '^ 
 

 4^ 
 
54' 
 
 S^ 'V.d Y ACE TO THE 
 
 Peing difappointed in our attempts to get to the 
 '. north-vvellward, the tempeituous weather wirh which 
 ^we had been harrafled, and the fmall probability, at 
 'this leafonof the year, of its becoming more favourable 
 to our defigns, were the moiives that now induced Cap- 
 tain Gore finally to abandon all farther fearch for the 
 iflands fituate to tiie northward of Japan, and to dirc(5t 
 his coiirfe to the wcft-fouth-weft, for the northern part 
 of that ifland. 
 
 On the 25th, at noon, we were in the latitude of 
 40® 18% and in the longitude of 144^. Flights of 
 wild ducks were this day obferved by us ; a pigeon 
 lighted upon our rigging; and many birds, refcmbling 
 linnets, flew about the fbips, with a degree of vigour, 
 that gave us reafon to imagine, they had not been 
 long on the wing. We alfo palled a piece either of bam- 
 boo or fugar-cane, and feveral patches of long grals. 
 Thefe indications of our being at no great diiffance 
 from land, determined us to try for foundings ; but 
 we could not reach tlie bottom with ninety fathoms 
 of line. On the approach of evening, the wind gradu- 
 ally veered round to the fouth, with which we conti^ 
 nued our courie to the wefl-fouth-wefl. 
 
 On Tueidav the 26th, at break of day, we had the 
 fatisfadlion oC perceiving high land towards the well, 
 which proved to be Japan. Having flood on till nine 
 o'clock, we had, bj that time approached within five 
 or fix miks of the land ; our depth of water wac fifty- 
 eight fithoms, with a bottom compofed of fine fand» > 
 We now tacked, and flood off; but, as the wind failed 
 us, we had proceeded, at noon, to 10 greater diflance 
 from the fhore than three leagues. Our latitude, by 
 obfervatjpn was 40® 5', and our longitude 142° 28 .|: 
 The m6ft northerly land in view was fuppofed by u* * 
 to be the northern extreme of Japan. It is fomewhat t. 
 lower than the other parts ; and from the range of the r 
 elevated lands, that were difcerned over it from the 
 mafl head, the coafi manifeflly appeared to trend to 
 the weilward. 
 
 While 
 
PACIFIC OCEAN. • 349 
 
 '^ While the calm c*6iitinue.d, that we might lofe no 
 time^A^e put our fifliing-Iines overboard, in ten fa- 
 ll thorns water, hut met with no fuccefs. This 
 being the only diverfion which our prefent circum- 
 flances ijcrmitted us to enjoy, we very fenfibly felt 
 the dtfappointment; and looked hack with regret to 
 ' the ' cod-banks of the difmal regions we had lately 
 quitted ; which had furniilied us with fo many falutary 
 meals, and, by the amufement they aiForded, had given 
 ' a variety to the tedious recurrence of the fame nauti- 
 cal and aftronomical obfervations, and the wearifome 
 fucceilion of calms and gales. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon, the wind blew 
 frefh from the fouth, and, by four, had reduced us to 
 clofe-reefed topfails, and obliged us to (land ofF to 
 the fouth-eaftward ; in confequence of which cburfe, 
 and the gloominefs of the weather, we foon loil fight 
 . of land. We kept on during the whole night, and 
 till eight o'clock the following morning, when the 
 wind ihifting to the north, and becomiiig moderate, 
 we made fail, and fteered a weft- fouth- vi-eft courfe to- 
 wards the land, which, however, we did not ill ake be- 
 fore three in the afternoon. * 
 
 We proceeded towards the coaft till eight ih the 
 evening, when our diftance from it was about five 
 leagues ; and having fliortened fail for the night, we 
 fteered in a foutherly dire6tion, founding every four 
 hours; but our depth of water was fo great, that we 
 did not find ground with a hundred and fixty fathoms 
 of line. 
 
 Steering fouth- weft obliquely with the fliofe, we 
 faw, at ten o'clock, more land in that direction. To 
 to the weft of this land, which is low and level, were 
 two iflands, as we j'uppofed, though fome doubts were 
 entertained, whether they were not united v\ith the 
 neighbouring low ground. The hazinefs of the wea- 
 ther, as well as our diftance, rendered it likewife im- 
 poilible for us to afcertain, whether there were not 
 fome inlets or harbours between the projecting points 
 which feemed to promife ihelter. 
 
 We 
 
 ■t'r 
 
 •i 
 
350 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 We continued our courfe to the fouth-weft during 
 the remainder of the day, and, at midnight, found 
 our depth of water to be feventy fathoms, over a hot- .^(|r 
 torn of fine brown fand. Vv'e therefore hauled up to* 
 wards the eaft, till the next morning, when we again 
 had fight uf land, about eleven leagues to the fouth of 
 that which we had feen the preceding day. At eight 
 o'clock, we were within the diftance of about two 
 leagues from the fhore, having had regular foundings 
 from fixty-five to twenty fathoms, over gravel and 
 coarfe fand. 
 
 It unfortunately happened, that there was a haze 
 over the land, which prevented us from diftinguifii- , ^ 
 ing fmall objedts on it. The coaft ftraight and un- 
 broken, running nearly in the dire£lion of north and 
 fouth. The ground was low towards the fea, but 
 gradually fwelled into hills of a moderate elevation, 
 whofe fummits were pretty even, and covered with 
 wood. 
 
 About nine o'clock, the fky being in fome degree; 
 overcaft, we tacked, and flood off to the eaftwa*-d. 
 Not long after, we obferved a veflel, clofe in with the 
 land, ftanding to the north along the fhore; and we 
 alfo (,\w another in the offing, coming down on us, 
 before the wind. The reader will eafily conceive,' 
 thai objects of any kind, belonging to a country fo . 
 celebrated, and yet lb imperfe6>ly known, muft have 
 exciced a general eagernefs of curiofity; in confequence 
 of nhich, every perfon on board came inftantaneoufly . 
 upon deck to gaze at them. As the vefTel to wind- • 
 ward approached us, (lie hauled ofF to a greater dif- 
 tance from the fiiore; upon v\hich, being apprehenilve ' 
 of alarming thofe who were on bnard of her, by the 
 appearance of a purfuit, we brought our (liips to, and 
 file (ailed a-head )f us, at the diftance of four or five 
 furlongs. We mir^ht have fpo':en to ihem vvirh great 
 facility; but Captain ' jore, perceiving, by their ma- 
 ncEUvres, thit thny were highly terrified, was un-l 
 willing to increafe their apprchenfions ; and, imagin-- 
 
 ■'r 
 
 ing 
 
PACIFIC OCEAK. 
 
 35^ 
 
 (Treat 
 
 ing 
 
 ing that we fliould have many better opportunities of 
 communication with the Japanefe, fuffered them to 
 retire without interruption. 
 
 We were not fufficiently near this veflel, to remark 
 any particulars refpedling the men on board of her, 
 who feemed to be fix or feven in number, efpecially 
 as the ufe of our glaffes was precluded by the thick- 
 nefs of the weather. According to the moll probable 
 conjedlures we were enabled to form, the veflel was 
 of the burden of about forty tons. She had only - 
 one mail, on which was hoifted a quadrangular fail, 
 extended aloft by a yard, the braces of which worked 
 forwards. Three pieces of black cloth came half way 
 down the fail, at an equal diftance from each other. 
 The veflel was lower in the middle than at each end; 
 and from her figure and appearance, we fuppofed that 
 file could not fail otherwife than large. 
 . The wind blew frefh at noon, and was accompanied 
 with much rain. By three in the afternoon, it had 
 increafed in fo great a degree, that we were reduced 
 to our courfes. The fea at the fame time, ran as 
 high as any of our people ever remembered to have 
 feen it. . , ^ 
 
 About eight o'clock in the evening, the gale, with- 
 out the fmallefl diminution of its violence, fhifted to 
 the weft, and, by producing a fudden fwell, in a di- 
 redlion contrary to that which had before prevailed, 
 caufed cur fliips to ft rain and labour extremely. Du- 
 ring the continuance of the ftorm, the Refolution had 
 feveral of her fails fplit. They had, indeed, been bent 
 for fuch a confidera!)Ie time, and were worn fo thin, 
 that this accident had lately happenend in hotn our 
 veflels almoft daily; particularly when the fails were 
 ft iff and heavy with rain, in which cafe they became 
 lefs capable of bearing the fhocks of the boifterous 
 and variable winds. 
 
 The gale at length abating, and fettling in the*^ 
 weflern quarter, we ftcered a fouthward courfe; and 
 on Saturday the 30th, at nine o'clock in the morni.ig, • 
 
 iitf 
 
 
 '.■■*■ I hi: 
 
 we 
 
35^ 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 ^e law laiiJ, :it the diftaiice of fifteen or fixrcen leagues. 
 Jt fliewttl itlllf in 'Ictachcd parts; hut we were not 
 near eiiougli to aicertaiii, whether they were fmall 
 iftands, or parts of [a-- i;. ' '■*^'-'^ ' -' • 
 
 On the 3 1 11, at two oVIock in the morning, the 
 wind veertd round to t!ie wel^, and blew in violent 
 fqualls, accompanied with lig'uning and rain. In the 
 courfc of this day, ievijrtl little birds of a brown plu- 
 mage, refemhling linneis, whicl; had been driven off 
 the land by the ftrong wefterly gales. Ibw about our 
 {hips. On tlie aj>proach of evening, the wind coming 
 to the north'weft point, we direv^ed our courfe, with 
 the bir<(s, to the welt-fouth-weli, with a view of re- 
 gaining tl' • oaih " • '" '' " • " ^ ^^ : 5» sJLi: 
 The lie X. nornin^;- wfiich \v.\; tlie :it(f \ov:^'n« 
 her, the wind fhif.,^'.! lo Mic ^.-.ith-ealK r^nl w; «: at- 
 ten4gj,^with fair v/e;(f*ner; in coni'eqi.tnre of wl --h,. 
 we ODtained, with foui di>lerent fjiMdrant-, for y two 
 fets of di (lances of t lie moon f[o-i-< the : ^m inid i^.irs, 
 each let comprehend n\ij fix oLfervatioas. Tb/^ie nenly 
 coinciding with each -ther, fix, witi grfr<t acc'iracy, 
 our fituation, at t'v<;\e o'cloclc thi^«^ dc^.y- in the lon- 
 gitude of 141® 32^, lii'j latitude, by oijfervaticn, be- 
 ing 35' if. ' - '■ ■' ?-- • -^^ '^-J ,jr 
 
 We fleered for tl-e land till between fi^ve and Hx, 
 whea we hauled our wind to the fouth. V/e ohferved, 
 at this time, many lapanefe veflcis, clofe in with the 
 land, fame flandin^ along the fliore^ and others appa- 
 rently occupied in fifliing. We now defrried to the 
 weftward a mo.iatain of extraordinary h^i;^hr, with a 
 round fumm it, ifnig far inland. There is no h; ;h 
 ground in the nei;'Jibourhood of it, the crnft being of 
 a moderate f:'ev;itionj and, as f;ir as the hazinefs of the 
 horizon pcrmlcied us to judge, much broken and in* 
 ilented by fmall inlets. Butj to the fouth of- the- Hum*- 
 mock illand ; ijove mentioned, there ap[>earod, at a con- 
 (iderable diftance up the country, a rid^ : of hills, which 
 extended towards the mountain, and might: |)eriiaps 
 join with it* 
 
 As the weather had now a very threai-eni'^t"^ appear- 
 ance, and the wind was at fouth-fouth eail, we thought 
 
 it 
 
? A C I F I C OCEAN, 
 
 3S3 
 
 anrnes. 
 
 re not 
 
 Tmall 
 
 gy the 
 riolent 
 In the 
 n piu- 
 'en oft 
 Lit our 
 oming 
 , witli 
 of re- 
 
 v:y> at- 
 xvl 1 i^h, 
 ■ ^ two 
 k\ li.irs, 
 neiriy 
 i-'iracy, 
 he lon- 
 :n, be- 
 
 mV nx, 
 ^ferved, 
 irith the 
 rs appa- 
 i to the 
 
 \v»th a 
 no h; ;K 
 wing of 
 ^s of the 
 
 and in- 
 
 It a con- 
 
 s, which 
 
 perhaps 
 
 ^nppear- 
 
 ! thoiii$ht 
 
 it 
 
 it aclvifable to quit the neighbourhood of the fliore, 
 and ftand off towards the eaft, that the ihips might 
 not be entangled with the land. We were not deceived 
 in our prognoftications ; for, not long afterwards, a 
 heavy gale began to blow, which continued till the fuc- 
 ceeding day, and was attended with rainy and hazy 
 weather. 
 
 On Wednefday the 3d, in the morning, we found 
 ourfelves, by our reckoning, at the diilance of upwards 
 of fifty leagues from the coafl ; which circumftance, 
 united to the confideratlon of the very uncommon ef- 
 fe6k of currents we had already experienced, the ad- 
 vanced period of the year, tne variable and uncertain 
 ftatc of the weather, and the fmall profpe6t we had of 
 any alteration for the better, induced Captain Gore to 
 form the refolution of leaving Jaj)an, and profecuting 
 our voyage to China; particularly as he entertained 
 hopes, that, fince the track he intended to purfbi^ had 
 not yet been explored, he might perhaps find an oppor* 
 tunity of making amends, by fome new and important 
 difcovery, for the difappointments we had fuilained 
 upon this coaft. 
 
 If any of our readers (hould be inclined to fup» 
 pofe, that we relinquifhed this ob]e6l too Iiaftily, it 
 may be obferved, in addition to the faiSls before ftaled, 
 that the coafl of Japan, according to Kcempfei^s de- 
 fcription of it, is the mod dangerous in all the known 
 world ; that it would have been exceedingly hazardous, 
 in^cafe of difbrefs, to have run into any of the har* 
 hours of that country ; where, if we may credit the 
 moft authentic writers, the averfion of the natives to 
 a communication with (Irangers, has prompted them 
 to the commiflion of the mofl flagrant a6ls of barba- 
 rity; that our veflels were in a leaky condition; that 
 ?h.e rigging was fo rotten as to require continual repairs ; 
 and that the fails were almofl entirely worn out, and 
 incapable of withllanding the vehemence of a gale of 
 wind. 
 
 We proceeded to the fouth-eaflward during the 4th 
 and 5th of November, with very unfettled weather, 
 
 and 
 
 .;'n 
 
354 A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 and much lightning and rain. On each of thole days 
 we paired confiderable quantities of pumice-fton^, feme 
 pieces of which were taken up by our people, and found 
 to weigh from an ounce to three pounds. W'e imagined 
 that thel'e ftones had been thrown into the water by 
 eruptions at different periods, as many of them were 
 entirely bare, and others covered with barnacles. At 
 the fame time, we liad a number of porpoiles playing 
 round our fliips, and faw feveral fmall land-birds, and 
 two wild ducks. 
 
 On the 9th, we obferved another little land-bifd, a 
 tropic bird, fome flying fiih and porpoifes. The wind 
 blowing from the northward, we continued to fleer a 
 fouth-wefl courfe, without any memorable occurrence, 
 till Friday the 12th, when, from the fame quarter, a 
 moft violent gale arofe^ which reduced us to the mizeii 
 ftay-fail and fore-fail ; and, on the 1 3th in the morning, 
 the v/ind veered to the north-weft point, and was ac-. 
 companied with fair weather; but though we were, at-i 
 prefent, nearly in the fituation attributed to the iAand: 
 of St. Juan, we perceived no appearance of land* > 
 
 In the morning of Sunday the I4thj we had fine-/ 
 weather, and the wind, which blew moderately, fhifted 
 by degrees to the north-eaft point, and proved to be the 
 trade-wind. At ten o'clock, Mr. Trevenen, one of 
 the young gentlemen who accompanied Captain King 
 in the Difcovery, after the death of Captain Clerkey 
 law land in the dire6tion of ibuth-weft, which had the 
 appearance of a peaked mountain At noon, the lonr f 
 gitude was 142° 2^, and the latitude 24° 37^ ^ 
 
 The land in view, which we now difcovered to be . 
 an ifland, was nine or ten leagues diftant, and, at two . 
 o'clock in the afternoon, we defcricd another to the 
 weft -north- weft ward. This fecond ifland, when view-* 
 ed at a diftance, appears like two; the fouthern point 
 confifting of a lofty hill of a conic figure, united by . 
 a narrow neck to the northern land, which is of a 
 moderate elevation. This ifland being manifeftly of' 
 greater extent than that to the fouthward, we directed 
 our courfe towards it. - .., ...^^.,-,^1. -^ 1 ;. -i. 
 
 The 
 
fAClFIC OCEAN, 
 
 355 
 
 days 
 fome 
 ound 
 rined^ 
 :r by • 
 •were . 
 At 
 lying 
 , and • 
 
 ird, a 
 wind v : 
 leer a 
 rence, 
 ter, a 
 mizeji 
 riling, 
 as ac-. 
 ire, at. 
 iiland 
 
 ► ' 
 
 d fine 
 Qiifted 
 be the 
 one of 
 I King 
 ;)lerke, 
 iad the 
 le lonr 
 
 d to be 
 at two . 
 to the 
 1 view-i 
 1 point, 
 ted by . 
 is of a. 
 :ftly of 
 liredled 
 
 The 
 
 The next morning, at fix, we made fail for the fouth- 
 crn point of the larger ifland; aiul, about this time, 
 difcovered another high iil:\nd. At nine o'clock, we 
 were abread of the middle iiland, and within the dif- 
 tance of a mile from it : but Captain (iore, finding 
 that a boat could not land without running ioim rifque 
 from the heavy furf tliat broke againft the ihore, con- 
 tinued his courfe, to tlie weilv/ard. 
 
 The length of this ifland, in the diredlion of fouth- 
 fouth-weli and north-north-eaft, is about five miles. 
 Its fouth point is an elevated barren hill, rather fiat at 
 the fummit, and when feen from the weft-fouth-weft, 
 exliibits an evident volcanic crater. The land, earth, 
 or rock, (for it was difficult todiftinguifh of which of 
 thefe fubftaiices its furface was compofed) difplayed va- 
 rious colours ; and we imagined that a confiderable part 
 was fulphur, not only from its appearance to the eye,, 
 but from the ftrong fulphureous fmell perceived by us \ii 
 our approach to the point. The Refolution having paf- 
 fed nearer the land, feveral of the officers of that fhip 
 thought they difcerned fteams proceeding from the tojK 
 of the hill, Thefe circumftances induced Captain Gor© 
 to bellow on this difcovery the appellation of Sulphur 
 Iiland. • , r 
 
 A low and narrow neck of land unites the hill we. 
 have juft defcribed, with the fouth end of the ifland, 
 which extends itfelf into a circumference of between 
 three and four leagues. The part bordering on the 
 ifthmus has fome bulhes upon it, and prefents an afpedl 
 of verdure ; but thofe parts that are fituate to the norths 
 eaft are extremely barren, and abound with large detach- 
 ed rocks, many of which are of great whitenefs. Some 
 very dangerous breakers extend about two miles and a 
 half to the eaftward, and two miles to the weftward, 
 ofF the middle part of the ifland, againft which the 
 fea breaks with a great degree of violence. 
 
 The north and fouth iflands had the appearance of 
 fmgle mountains, of a confiderable elevation ; the for- 
 mer was peaked, and of a conic form ; the latter more 
 
 fquare and flat at the fummit, ^: ^i .: 
 
 Sulphur 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 

 r i 
 
 ij«-i» 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 Sulphur Ifland we jiulge to !)e in the latitude of 24® 
 48^, and tlie longitude of 141^ 12''. f 
 
 I Captain (lore now tliought proper todirc6^ hisconrfc^ 
 for the Jiafliee Hies, with tlie ho])es of procviring at 
 them fuch a fupply of refrefiinir'nts as might rentier It 
 lefs ncceflary to continue long at Macao. Thefe iflands 
 received a vifit fioin Captain Dampier, who has given 
 a very favourable account, as well of the civility of 
 the natives, as of the abundance of hogs and vegetables, 
 with which the country is furnifhed. They were af- 
 terwards (ccn by Commodore Byron and Captain W'al- 
 lis, who paiied them without landing. ' ^... .. • ' 
 ^ For the purpofe of extending our view in the day- 
 time, our fhips failed at the diftance of between two and; 
 three leagues from each other ; and, during the night, 
 we proceeded under an eafy fail; fo that it was fcarcely 
 poffible to avoid obferving any land that lay in the vici- 
 nity of our courfe. In this manner we continued our 
 progrefsy without any interefting occurrence, having a 
 frefli brctre from the north-eaft till Monday the aad, 
 when it augmented to a ftrong gale, with vehement 
 fqualls of wind and ram, which reduced us to clofe- 
 reefed top-fails, ' j- 
 
 - In the night of the 25th, there was an eclipfe of the 
 moon ; but we were prevented by the rain from making 
 any obfervation. It unfortunately happened, that one 
 of the Difcovery's people, being occupied, at the time 
 of thegreateft darknefs, in ftowing the main top-maft 
 flay-fail, fell overboard, hut immediately catching hold 
 of a rope, which was providentially hanging out ot 
 the fore-chains into the fea, and the iliip being brought 
 into the wind without delay, he was got on board with 
 no other hurt than a triding bruife on one of his 
 fhonld^rs* r; T-.#V?i;r f, .w.tvf ^ <%r, i^^Vt* 
 
 f'oOn.the 28th, at four oV lock in the morning, the 
 I^efpiution, which was then half a mile a-head of the 
 Difcovery, wore, and the crew of the latter lliip, at 
 ti^e fame time, perceived breakers cloHi under their lee. 
 
 On the approach of day-light, we had fight of the 
 ifland of Prata; and, between tlie- hours of llx and fe- 
 
 ven, 
 
of 14^ 
 
 sconrf^ 
 M-ing at 
 eniier U 
 3 iflamls 
 as given 
 ^ility ot 
 retablfs, 
 were at- 
 liii W'al- 
 
 the (lay- 
 two and 
 le night, 
 ; fcarcely 
 the vici- 
 tnued cuf 
 liaving a 
 the aad, 
 ^rehemcnt 
 to clofe- 
 
 fe of the 
 n making 
 that one 
 the time 
 top-maft 
 ^ing hold 
 ^tT out ot 
 g brought 
 oard with 
 le of his 
 
 ning, the 
 
 ad of the 
 
 *• ihip, at 
 
 their lee. 
 
 ht of the 
 
 ix and fe- 
 
 vtn, 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. 357 
 
 vcn, we Aood towards the flioal, but finding ourfeivcs 
 unable to weather it, we bore away, and ran to lev'iward. 
 As we pailed along the fouth fide, within the diftance 
 of a mile from the reef, we faw two remarkable patches 
 on the edge of the breakers, that had the appearance of 
 wrecki. • • • oi 
 
 At noon, the latitude, difcovered by double altitudes, 
 was «o° 39''; and the longitude was 116^45^, The 
 illaiiJ of Prata was now three or four leagues diflant. 
 iNear the iouthern extremity of the illand, and on the 
 fouth-wdlcrn fide of the reef, we imagined that we 
 faw, from the maft-head, feveral openings in the reef, 
 wliidi feemed to promife fecu re anchorage. ' '• 
 
 1 he extent of the Prata ilioal is conliderable ; for it 
 is about fix leagues from north to fouth, and extends 
 three or four leagues to the eaft of the ifland : its limits 
 to the weftward we had not an opportunity of afcer- 
 taining. • • , . ,. > ^ < ■ .--,,- -^v, 
 
 ' yAe carried a prefs of fail during the remainder of the 
 day, and kept the wind, which now blew from the 
 north-eall by north, in order to fecure our paffage to 
 Macao. It was a fortunate cii cumltance, that the wind 
 frfvoured us towards the evening, by veering two points 
 more to the eaflward ; for, if the wind and weather had 
 continued the fame as they had been in the preceding 
 week, we think we fhould fcarcelv have been able to 
 have fetched that port, in which cafe we muft have re- 
 paired to'Batavia ; a place we had good reafon to dread, 
 froti^ the terrible havock which the unhealthinefs of the 
 climate had occafioned among the crews of the former 
 veitels that had been employed in voyages of difcovery, 
 and had touched there. * ^ ? . >* ^tm^. ,. ^^ 
 
 In the morning of Monday the 5.9th, we pafled fome 
 Clnncfe fifliing-boats, the crews of which eyed us with 
 marks of great indifference. In fifhing, they make 
 life of a large dredge-net, rereml)ling a hollow cone in 
 ftiape, with n flat iron rim fixed to the lower part of 
 ks mouth. The net is faftened with cords to the head 
 and flern of the boat, which being left to follow the 
 impulfe of the wind, draws the net after it, with the 
 
 -m i'\t. /'J IV /i»io;l ;-i(ij i»t>'>V* ».>ii ,S;Ji„ ;i ^'. /l to JLri;»w» 
 
3S8 , A VOYAGE TO THE 
 
 iron rim clraggin^^ along ' he bottom. We found the fea, 
 to our great regret, covered with the wrecks of boats 
 w liich had been loft, as we fuppoibd, in the late ftormy 
 weather, . . ,• . . 
 
 Our latitude at twelve o'clock, by obfcrvation, was 
 22° 1^; and, fince the preceding noon, we had run 
 a hundred and ten r^iles upon anoith-weft courfe.* As 
 we were now nearly in O.e latitude of tlie Lema Iflands, 
 we made fail to the v.efl; by north, and, after we had 
 proceeded two and tw iity miles, defcried one of them 
 nine or ten Icngues to the weft. 
 
 At fix in the afternoon we were four or five leagues 
 diftaiit from theneareft; our foundings being twenty- 
 two fatlioms, over a muddy bottom. We now Hack- 
 ened fail, and kept upon our tacks for the night. 
 
 The next morning, we ran along the Lema Ifles, 
 which, like the other illands lituated on this coaft, are 
 deftitute of wood, and, as far as we had an opportu- 
 nity of obferving, devoid of cultivation. About nine 
 o'clock, a Chinele boat, whicli had before been with the 
 Refolution, came along-fide the Dilbovery, with ofters 
 of a pilot, which, however, Captain King declined, 
 as it was incumbent upon him to follow his confort. 
 Not long afterwards, we paifed the wefternmoft of the 
 Lema rocks ; but, inftead of hauling up to the north 
 of the Grand Ladrone Illaad, as was done by Lord 
 A.nfon in the Centurion, we failed to leeward. » 
 
 In purfuance of the inftructions which had been 
 given to Captain Cook by the Lords of the Admiralty, 
 it now became neceflary to defue the officers and men 
 to deliver up their journals, and all other papers they 
 might have in their polleflion, relative totluhiftory of 
 the voyage. Some degree of delicacy, as well as firm- 
 nefs, feemed to be requifite in the execution of thefe 
 orders. Our commanders could not be ignorant, that 
 moft of the officers, and feveral of the leamen, had a- 
 niufed themfelves, in their leifure hours, with writing 
 accounts of our proceedings, for the purpofe of grati- 
 fying their friends, or for their own priv^'^t'^ fatisfadlion ; 
 which they might ilotwifh to have ful iiJtted^ in their 
 
 pre- 
 
:he fea, 
 * boats 
 (lormy 
 
 n, was 
 lid run 
 a. • As 
 
 [flands, 
 we had 
 f them 
 
 leagues 
 vventy- 
 V Uack- 
 
 la Tiles, 
 aft, are 
 pportu- 
 »ut nine 
 vith the 
 :li oilers 
 eclined, 
 contort. 
 \ of the 
 e north 
 y Lord 
 
 id been 
 uiralty, 
 nd men 
 ers they 
 ftory of 
 as firm- 
 of thefe 
 nt, that 
 had a- 
 
 writing 
 )f grati- 
 
 fafiion ; 
 , in their 
 pre- 
 
 :♦ PACIFIC OCEAN. 359 
 
 prefent form, to the infpedlion of ftrangers. On the 
 other hand, the Captains could not, confidently with 
 the inftrudtions they had received, leave papers iu their 
 cuftody, which, either by accident or deiign, might 
 fall into '.'le hands of printers, and thus give rife to 
 fuch fpurious and imperfedl narratives of our voyage, 
 as might tend to the difparagement of our labours, and, 
 perhaps, to the prejudice of officers, who might, though 
 unjuflly, incur the fufpicion of having been the authors 
 of fuch publications. 
 
 Captain King, therefore, aflembled the Difcovery's 
 people on deck, and informed them of the orders tliat 
 had been received, and the reafons which, in his opinion, 
 ought to induce them to yield a perfedl obedience. He, 
 at the fame time, gave thfcin to underAand, that what- 
 ever papers they wi%ea not to have fent to the Lords of 
 the Admiralty, fhonld be fealed up in their own prefence, 
 and preferved in his cuftody, till the intentions of their 
 Xordihips, refpecfling d\e publication of the hiftory of 
 the voyage, were accompliflied ; after which, he faid, 
 they ftiould be faithfully reftored to them. 
 
 Captain King had the fatisfadlion to find, that his 
 propofals met with the approbation and the ready com- 
 pliance, not only of the officers, but alio of the reft of 
 the ftiip's company ; and every fcrap of pajier, that con- 
 tained an account of any tranfadtions relating to the pre- 
 fent voyage, was iinm«liately given up. The Captain 
 obfervesupon this occafion, that it is but doing juftice 
 to the feamen of this fhip to declare, that they were 
 the beft diipofed, and the moft obedient men he ever 
 knew, though the greateft part of them were very young, 
 and had never ferved before in a fhip of war. 
 
 Captain Gore made the. fame propofals to the people 
 of the Refolution, who inftantly complied with them, 
 and delivered up all their papers which had any refer- 
 ence to the voyage. *'fU ^ » i 
 
 We continued working to windwaird till about fix 
 o'clock in the afternoon, when we let go our anchors, 
 by the direftion of the Chtnefe pilot on board the Re- 
 folution, who was of opinion tlwt the tide was now 
 
 fetting 
 
 !1 
 
360 A VOYAGETO THE 
 
 fetting againft us. In this particular, however, he was 
 greatJy deceived; for, upon our making the experi- 
 ment, we difcovered, that it fet towards the north till 
 ten o'clock. The next morning (Wednefday the ift 
 of December) he fell into an error of a fimilar kind; 
 for, at five, on the appearance of flack water, he di- 
 redled that we fhould get under way; hut the igno- 
 rance he had before manifefled, had put us upon our 
 guard. We were therefore willing to be convinced, 
 by our own obfervations, before we weighed anchor; 
 and, on examining the tide, we found a ilrong under- 
 tow, in conlecjuence of which, we were obliged to keep 
 fail till eloveii o'clock. It appears from thefe cir- 
 cumllances, that the tide had run down for the fpace 
 of twelve ho\ns. 
 
 M^e ilood on our tacks duni|{ the nfternoon, be- 
 tween the Cirand Ladione and the ifland of Potoe, 
 having pafled to the eaft of the latter. The tide be- 
 ginning to ebb at nine o'clock, we again caft anchor in 
 fix fathoms water; the town of Macao being at the 
 diftance of nine or ten miles, in a north-weft direc- 
 tion ; and the illand of Potoe bearing fouth half weft, 
 fix or (even miles. 
 
 On the 2d of December, in the morning, one of 
 the Chinefe contradlors, who are known by tlie ap- 
 pellation of Compradors^ came onboard the Refolu- 
 tion, and fold to Captain Gore as much beef as 
 weighed two hundred pounds, together with a confi- 
 derable quantity of eggs, oranges, and greens. The 
 Difcovery received a proportional ftiare of thefe articles ; 
 and an agreement was made with the Comprador to 
 provide tls a daily fupply, for which, however, he. in- 
 fifted on our paying before hand. 
 
 As our pilot now pretended that he could condu6l 
 the fhips no farther, Captain Gore was under the ne- 
 , ceflity of difcharging him; and we were left to our 
 own guidance and direflion* At two o'clock in the 
 afternoon, the tide flowing, we took up our anchors 
 and worked to windward; and; at ieven^ anchored 
 
e was 
 
 cperi- 
 :h till 
 lie I ft 
 kind; 
 lie di- 
 igno- 
 n our 
 inced, 
 ichor ; 
 jnder- 
 keep 
 e cir- 
 ; ipace 
 
 ►n, be- 
 Pt)toe, 
 ide be- 
 :hor in 
 at the 
 direc- 
 f weft, 
 
 one of 
 :lie ap- 
 Refolu- 
 beef as 
 L confi- 
 . The 
 irticles ; 
 ■ador to 
 , he. in- 
 
 condu6l 
 
 the ne- 
 
 to our 
 
 . in the 
 
 anchor* 
 
 inchored 
 
 again 
 
 ^ A e I F X e OCEAN* 361 
 
 again in three fathoms and a half water; at ivhich 
 time Macao bore weft, at the diftance of one league. 
 
 Captain Gore, in the evening, difpatched Captain 
 King to Macao, to pay a vifit to the Portuguefe Gd* 
 vernor, and to requeft the favour df his aifimance, M 
 fupplying out people with provifions, which he ima- 
 gined might be done on more moderate terms thad 
 the Comprador would undertake to farnifti themw 
 Captain King, at l^e fame time, took an account df 
 the naval ftor^s, of which both our ftiips were in great 
 want, with an intention of repairing immediately 
 to Canton, and making application to the fervants 
 of our Eaft-India Company, who refined there at that 
 time. 
 
 Upon Mr, King's arrival at the citadel, he was in- 
 formed by the fort iWofj that the governor was in- 
 difpofed, and was ther^rorfe unwilling to receive vifitors, 
 but that we might depend on meeting with every af- 
 liftance in their power. This, however, Mr. King 
 underftood would be verf inconfiderable, fihce they 
 were perfeftly dependent on the Chinefe, even for 
 their daily fupport. Indefefd, the anfwer that was re- 
 turned to Mr. King's firft requeft, furniftied a faffici-' 
 ent proof of the reduceti ilate of the Portuguefe power ; 
 for, on his iignifying to the major, his defire of pro- 
 ceeding to Canton as foon as poffible, the latter ac- 
 quainted him, that they could not prfefume to provide 
 a boat for him, till permiflion had been obtained frona 
 the Hoppo, or officer of the cuftoms ; and that it wa» 
 necefTary to apply, for this purpofe, to the Chinefe 
 government at Capton. 
 
 Captain King's mortification .it fo unexpe6led a de- 
 lay, could be equalled only by the eager impatience 
 With which we had fo long waited for an opportunity 
 of gaining information with regaiid to Earopean airFairs* 
 It not unfrequently happens, that, amidft the ardent 
 purfuit of an obje6l:, we hegledt the moft dhvious 
 means of attaining it. This was, indeed, Mr. King*$ 
 cafe^t prefent; for he was returning tothefhip in a 
 ftate of great deje(5tion, when the Portuguefe officer 
 
 m 
 
 'til 
 I 
 
 R 
 
 who 
 
362 A V©V/<3E TO THE 
 
 i^ho accompanied him, aiked him, whether he did not 
 intend to vifit the Engliih gentlemen at Macao. It 
 is unnecefTary to add with what tranfport Mr. King 
 jeceivcd the intelligence conveyed to him by this quef- 
 tion, as well as with what anxious hopes and fears ; 
 what a conflidl between curioiity and apprehenfiony 
 his mind was agitated, as he and his companions 
 walked towards the houfe of one of their countrymen. 
 The reception they met with was by no means defi- 
 cient in civility or kindnefs, though, from the ftate of 
 agitation they were in, it appeared to them rather c»ld 
 and formal. In their inquiries, as far as regarded ob- 
 je(5ls of private cpnceni, they obtained, as was indeed 
 to be expedled, little or no fatisfa6lion; but the oc- 
 currences of a public nature, which had happened 
 fmce the period of our departure from England, and 
 which now, overwhelmed all other feelings, and al- 
 mofl deprived them, for fome time, of the power of 
 -refie£lion. 
 
 The information now received by Mr. Kiiig and 
 his attendants, being communicated to thofe who re- 
 mained on board, we continued, for feveral days, to 
 queilion cich other with refpedl to the truth of it, 
 as if defirous of feeking, in doubt and fiifp'ence, for 
 that confolation, which the reality of cur misfortunes 
 Jeemed entirely to exclude. To thefe fenfations the 
 ixicfi poignnnt ragret fucceeded, on finding ourfelves 
 cwi oli, at lb great a diftance, from the fcene, where, 
 >vt Tuppofed tlie fate of contending fleets and armies 
 was continually deciding. 
 
 The intelligence we had gained concerning the ftat« 
 of affairs in Europe, rendered us the more anxious to 
 accelerate our departure as much as we poflibly could. 
 Captain King, therefore, renewed his endeavours to 
 procure a paflage to Canton, but did not meet with 
 fuccefs at prefent; and finding there was no pro'fpe(5l 
 i)f his proceeding to Canton, dfpatched a letter to the 
 Committee of the Englifli Supercargoes, to requeft 
 their afliflance in procuring him a pafTport, as well as 
 A for\y arding the ilores we had occaHon for (of which 
 . . . .. . Mr. 
 
did not 
 
 ao. It 
 
 r. King 
 
 is quef- 
 
 fears; 
 
 lenfion, 
 
 panions 
 
 rymen. 
 
 ns deft- 
 
 ftate of 
 
 ler c«ld 
 
 rded ob- 
 
 s indeed 
 
 the oc- 
 
 appened 
 
 rid, and 
 
 and al- 
 
 ower of 
 
 [iiig and 
 who re- 
 days, to 
 th of it, 
 5nce, for 
 sfortunes 
 tions the 
 ourfelves 
 ;, where, 
 >d armies 
 
 the ftate 
 ixious to 
 ily could, 
 ivours to 
 eet with 
 
 pro'fpe(St 
 er to the 
 o requeft 
 IS well as 
 [of which 
 Mr. 
 
 PACIFIC O C t A tJ. ^' 563 
 
 Mr. King fent them a lift) with all pofiibk expe* 
 dition. 
 
 On Thurfday the 9th, Captain Gore received an 
 anfwer from the Englifti Siqjercargoes at Canton, in 
 which they prom i fed to exert their moft ftrenuous 
 endeavours in procuring the fupplies of which we were 
 in want, with all poffible difpatch, and affured him, 
 that a paflport ft)ould be fent for one of our officers, 
 expreffing their hopes, at the fame time, that we were 
 fufficiently acquainted with the character of the Chi^ 
 nefe adrainiftration, to impute any delays that might 
 occur, to their true caufe. 
 
 The next day, an Englifti merchant, from one of 
 our fettlements, made application to Captain Gofe,. 
 for the afliftance of a few of his people, to navigate as 
 far as Canton, a veflel which he had purchafed at Ma- 
 cao. Captain Gore, confidering this as a good oppor- 
 tunity for Mr. King to repair to that city, gave orders, 
 that he ftibuld take with him his fecond lieutenant^ th^ 
 lieutenant of marines, and ten failors. 
 
 Though this was not the exa£l mode in wJhich CajH 
 tain King could have wiftied to Vifit Canton, yet as^ 
 it was highly uncertain when the paflport would ar- 
 rive, and his prefence might be of great fervice, in ex- 
 pediting the requiftte fupplies, he did not fcruple to 
 go on board the veflel, having left orders with Mr. 
 Williamfon to prepare the Difcovery for fea with all 
 convenient fpeed, and make fuch additions and im- 
 provements in her upper works, as might contribute 
 to render her more defenfible. 
 
 Mr. King and his attendants quitted the harhonr of 
 Macao on Saturday the nth; and reaching Canton 
 in the evening of the i8th, difembarked at the Engliili 
 fa£l:ory, where, though his arrival was w^holly unex- 
 pefted, ke was received with every mark of civility 
 and refpedl. Meflrs. Fitzhugh, Bevan, and Rapier, 
 compofed at this time the Seleft Committee; and tho 
 former of thefe gentlemen adled as Prefident. They 
 immediately gave Mr. King an inventory of thofe 
 ftores with which the Eaft-India ftiips were able to 
 
 K ^ fupply 
 
 r I 
 
 i 
 
 •: 
 
 n 
 
 
f 
 
 364 A V0YA6X T6f THl 
 
 fupply us; and though he did not entertain the fmallcft 
 doubt, that the commanders were willing to aflifl us 
 with whatever they could fpare, confiftently with a 
 regard to the intereft of their employers, as well as 
 their own fafety, yet it was a great difappointment 
 to him to obferve in their lift fcarcely any canvas or 
 cordage, ot both which articles we were chiefly in 
 want. It afforded him, however, fome conlblation, 
 to find that the ftores were ready to be /hipped, and 
 that the provi lions we had occafion for might be had 
 at a day'i notice. 
 
 On Sunday the 26th, in the evening, Captain King 
 took his leave of the Supercargoes, after having re- 
 turned them thanks for their many favours; among 
 which mull be mentioned a prefent of a confiderabk 
 quantity of tea, for the ufe of the companies of both 
 fliips, and a copious colledlion of Englifh periodical 
 publications. 
 
 At one o'clock in the morning of the a 7th, Meflrs, 
 King and Phillips, and the two Englifh gentlemen, 
 quitted Canton, and, about the fame hour of the fuc- 
 ceeding day, arrived at Macao, having pafled down 
 a channel fiituated to the weft of that by which Mr. 
 King had come up. 
 
 During the abfencc of our party from Macao, a 
 lirifk traffic had been carrying on with the Chinefe, 
 for our fea-otter fkmSy the value of which augmented 
 every day. One of our failors difpofed of his ftock 
 tfone, for eight hundredf dollars; ^md 21 few of the beft 
 ikins, which were clean, and had been carefuLj 
 preferved^ produced a hundred and twenty dollars 
 each. 
 
 A very ludicrous alteration took place in the drefs 
 of all our crew, in confequence of the barter which 
 the Chinefe had carried on with us for our fea-other 
 Ikins. On our arrival in the Typa, not only the fai- 
 jnrs, but likewife the younger officers were extremely 
 ragged in their apparel ; forj as the voyage had nxrwr 
 exceeded, almoft by a year, the time it was at firft 
 iuppofed we ftiouid continue at fea, the far greater 
 
 . . . .^ ...» part 
 
1 
 
 nfliis 
 vith a 
 rell as 
 tment 
 vas or 
 jfly in 
 ationy 
 i, and 
 36 had 
 
 King 
 ng re- 
 imong 
 lerable 
 fboth 
 lodical 
 
 ^eflrs, 
 
 lemeni 
 
 le fuc- 
 
 dowJi 
 
 hMr. 
 
 cao, a 
 
 hinefe, 
 lented 
 (lock 
 le beft 
 refuL) 
 ddlara 
 
 B drefs 
 ■which 
 i-other 
 he fai- 
 reniely 
 d njow 
 atfirft 
 greater 
 part 
 
 PACIFIC QCEAN. 565, 
 
 part of our original flock of European clothes had 
 been long ago worn out, or repaired and patched up- 
 with (kins, and the different manufadlures we had met 
 with in the courfe of the expedition. Thefe were now 
 mixed with the gayeft filks and cottons that China 
 coUld produce. 
 
 On Tuefday the nth of January, 1780, two Tailors 
 belonging to the Refolution, went off with a fix-oared' 
 cutter ; and thougli the moft diligent fearch was made, 
 both that and the fucceeding day, we never could gaia 
 any intePigence of her- It was imagined, that thefe. 
 feamen had been feduced by the hopes of acquir- 
 ing a fortune if they fhould return to the fur iflaiids* 
 
 We unmoored on the 12th of January, at twelve 
 o'clock, and fcaled the guns, which, on board the-Dif* 
 covery, amounted at this time to tea; fo thaV her peo-^ 
 pie, by means of four additional ports, could iight feveni 
 on a fide. In the Refolution likewifcj the lumber o£ 
 guns had been augmented fr-om. twelve to fixteen ; and, 
 in each of our veflels, a ffrong barricade had been car- 
 ried round the upper work, and all other precautions . 
 taken to give our inconfiderable force a refpedtable ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 We confidered it as our duty to furnifh ourfelves witBt 
 thefe means of defence, though there was fome reaforfc 
 to believe, that they had, in a great lUeafure, been ren- 
 dered fuperfluous by the generofity of our enemiec^ 
 Captain King had been informedat Canton, that, in the- 
 public prints, which had laft arrived from Great 
 Britain, mentioa was made of inftrucflions having, 
 .been found on. board all the French fhips of war, that 
 had been taken in Europe, importing, that their com- 
 manders, if they fhould happen to fall in with the jfliips. 
 which had failed from England under the command of 
 Captain Cook, fhould fuffer them to proceed unmo- 
 leiled on their voyage. It \\as alfo reported, that th© 
 American Congrefs had given fimilar orders to the v^f- 
 fels employed in their fervfce. This intelligence being 
 farther confirmed by the private letters of fome of tho- 
 fupercargoes, Captain Gore deetned it incumbent on 
 
 R 3 him, 
 
 
 I 
 
566 A VOYAeS TO THE 
 
 him, in return for the liberal exceptions wliich our ene- 
 mies had made in our favour, to refrain from embracing 
 ^ any opportunities of capture, which thefe might afford, 
 and to maintain the ftridlell neutrality during the 
 ^'hote t f his voyage. 
 
 Having got under fail, about two o'clock in the after- 
 itoon, the Refolution faluted the fort of Macao with 
 eleven guns; and the falutation was returned with an 
 equal number. The wind failed at five, the fhip mifled 
 iftays, and drove into fhallow water; but, an anchor be- 
 ing quickly carried out, ihe was hauled off without fuf- 
 taining any ilamage, . • - . 
 
 After paffing fome iflands, and encountering various 
 i(?inds, on the 20th we came to an anchor in the har- 
 bour of Pulo Condore, where we procured fome buffa- 
 loes, and recruited our wood and water. . 
 At fix o'clock we anchored in fix fathoms water, 
 ^ith the beft bower ; and the Diicovery was kept fleady^ 
 with aflream anchor and cable towards the foutheafl. 
 When moored, the extremities of the entrance of the 
 harbour bore weft-north- weft a quarter weft, and 
 north by weft; the opening at the upper end bore 
 fouth-eaft by eaft three quarters eaft; and we were 
 about two furlongs diftant from the neareft part of the 
 ihore. I ' 
 > We had no fooncrlet go our anchors, than Captain 
 Gore fired a gun, with a view of giving the inhabitants 
 notice of our arrival, and drawing them towards the 
 ihore; but it had no e£fc6t. Early the next morning 
 parties were difpatched to cut wood, as Captain Gore's 
 principal motive for touching at this ifland was to fup- 
 plv the fhips with that article. During the afternoon, 
 a ludden guft of wmd broke the ftream-cable, by which 
 the DifcoTery rode, and obliged her people to moor with. 
 the bower anchors. 
 
 As none of the iflandershad yet made their appear- 
 ance, notwi'hftanding the firing of a fecond gun, Cap- 
 tain Gore thought it advifahle to go aftiore in feaich of 
 tfieltt} t^at we might lofeno time in opening a traffic 
 ^ fiicih provifionc as the place could' furaiC^ us with. 
 1 . For 
 
ir end« 
 
 )racing 
 afford, 
 
 
 ng the 
 
 
 1 
 e after- 
 
 "f 
 
 o with 
 
 
 vith an 
 
 
 ) miilbd 
 
 
 hor be- 
 
 
 >ut fuf- 
 
 
 various 
 
 
 he har- 
 
 
 B buffa- 
 
 
 water. 
 
 
 t fleady 
 th-eaft. 
 
 
 of the 
 
 
 ?ft, and 
 
 
 id bore 
 
 
 7e were 
 
 
 •t of the 
 
 
 Captain 
 abitants 
 
 
 rds the 
 
 
 lorning 
 1 Gore*s 
 
 
 to fup- 
 
 
 srnoon, 
 which 
 
 4 
 
 i 
 
 lor with 
 
 t 
 
 nil •■-■j 
 
 
 appear- ' 
 1, Cap- 
 arch of 
 
 9 
 i 
 
 I traffic 
 
 
 s with. 
 
 
 For 1 
 
 
 PACIFIC OCEAir. 'Jtfy 
 
 For this purpofe, he defired Captain King to accom- 
 pany him in the morning ofthe22d; and, as the windy 
 at that time, blew violently from the eaft ward, they did 
 not think it conftftent with prudence to coaft in their 
 boats to the town, which ftands on the eaftern fide of 
 the iAand, but rowed round the northern point of the 
 harbour. 
 
 On their firft leaving the wood, a herd of buffaloes, 
 confifling of at leaft twenty, ran towards them^ tofling 
 up their heads, fnuffing the air, and making a hideous 
 roaring. ' 
 
 After the buffaloes had been driven off, our party 
 were condu£ted to tfie town, which was about a mile 
 diftant; the road to it lying through a deep whitifh 
 fand. It ftands near the fea-fide, at the bottom of a re- 
 tired bay, which affords good flielter during the preva- 
 lence of the fouth-weft monfoon. 
 
 The iflander, who a6led as a guide to our party, con- 
 dudled them to the largeft houfe in the town, belong- 
 ing to the chief, or (as the natives ftiled him) the Cap- 
 tain. At each extremity of this houfe was a room, fe- 
 parated by a partition of reeds from the middle fpace, 
 which was unenclofed on either fide, and was furniftied 
 with partition fcreens like the others. There was alfo 
 a penthoufe, which projedled to the diftanceof four or 
 five feet from the roof, and ran the whole length on 
 each fide. Some Chinefe paintings, reprefenting per- 
 fons of both fexes in ludicrous attitudes, were hung alt 
 each end of the middle room. In this apartment oup 
 people were requefted: to feat themfelves on mats, and 
 ietei was prefented to them. 
 
 Captain King, by producing money, and pointing at 
 different objedls that were in fight, met with no diffi- 
 culty in making one of the company, who feemcd to 
 be the principal perfon among them, comprehend the' 
 chief defign of his vifit, and as readily underftood from^ 
 him, that the Chief, or Captain, was, at this time, ab- 
 fent, hut would quickly return ; and that no purchafeof. 
 any kind could be made without his concurrence and 
 approbatioxu 
 
 . Eula 
 
^56B A VOYAGE TO THZ 
 
 • Pula Condore is elevated and mountainous, and is 
 encompafled by feveral iflands of inferior extent, tome 
 of which are about two miles diftant, and otliers lefs 
 than one mile. Its name fignifies the ifland of cala- 
 bafhes, being derived from two Malay words, Pii/o im- 
 plying an ifland, and Condore a calabafh, great quanti- 
 ties of which fruit are here produced. It is of a femi- 
 circular form, and extends ieven or eight miles from 
 the moll foutherly point, Li the direction of north- 
 eaft. Its breadth, in any part, does not exceed two 
 miles. 
 
 The anchorage in this harbour is very good, tlie 
 depth of water being from five to eleven fathoms ; but 
 the bottom is fo foft and clayey, that we met with con- 
 fiderable difficulty in weighing our anchors. There is 
 fliallow water towards the bottom of th? harbour, for 
 the extent of about half a mile, beyond which the two 
 iflands make fo near an aj)proach to each other, that 
 they leave only a pafliige at high water for boats. 
 The molt commodious water-place is at a beach oa 
 the eaft^ern fide, where we found a fmall flream that 
 fupplied us with faurteen or iifteen tons of water in a 
 day. , ,, 
 
 The lanJ near the harbour is a continued lofty hill,, 
 riclily adorned, from the fummit to the edge of the wa- 
 ter, with a^reat variety of fine high trees. Among, 
 others, we faw that which is called by Dampier the tar- 
 tree; but perceived none that were tapped, in the man- 
 ner defcribed by him.. 
 
 The latitude of the harbour of Condore is 8^ 40'' 
 north; its longitude, deduced from many lunar obfer-- 
 vations, 106° 18^ 46^^ eaft; and. the variation of the 
 compafs was 14^ wefl:. .-..jr; .^,. . j> • t 
 
 We weighed anchor on the aStli of January^ and had 
 rw fooner cleared the harbour, than we flood to the 
 foiith-fouth-wefl: for Pulo Timoan. , ,i 1 
 
 On the 8th, about eight o'clock in the morning, we 
 proceeded through the Straits of Sunda. Being, at that 
 time, not above two miles from two fliips which lay 
 there at anchc^r, and which now hoifled Dutch co- 
 lours, . 
 
» the 
 
 that 
 lay 
 co- 
 
 )iirs, 
 
 FACIFIC OCEAN. ^9 
 
 loi^rs, Captain Gore fent a boat on board to procure 
 intelligence. ^ 
 
 The boat returned early in the afternoon, with inr 
 formation, that the larger of the two veflels was a 
 Dutch Eafl-Indiamar^ bound for Europe; and the 
 other, a packet from Batavia, with inAru6lions for die 
 feveral fliips lying in the Straits. It is cuftomary for 
 the Dutch fhips, when their cargoes are all completed, 
 to quit Batavia, on account of its very unwholefome 
 climate, and repair to fome of the more healthy iflands 
 ;ia the Straits, where they wait for their difpatches, 
 and the remainder of their lading. The Indiaman, 
 notwithilanding this precaution, had loft four men 
 iince ihe had left Batavia, and had as many more whofe 
 lives were defpaired of. She had remained here a fort- 
 night, and was now on the point of proceeding to Cra.» 
 catoa to take in water, having juft received final orders 
 hy the packet. 
 
 At feven o'clock the next morning, we made fail^ 
 and two days afterwards came to an anchor at Cracatoa. 
 
 Cracatoa confifts of elevated land, gradually rifing 
 on all fides from the-fea; mid is entirely covered with 
 ttees, except a few fpots whicK have been cleared by 
 the natives for the purpofe of forming rice fields* 
 7he population of the ifland is very inconfiderable« 
 Its Chief .is dependent on the King of Bantam, to whom . 
 the Chiefs of all the other iflands in the ftraitsare alfo 
 fubjedl. The coral reefs aferd finatt turtles in abun* 
 dance ; but other refrefliments are exceedingly fcarce^ . 
 and are fold at a very exorbitant price. This iiland ia 
 confidered as very healthy, in comparifon of the neigh-* 
 bouring countries. 
 
 About eight in the evening, the wind began to bloMr 
 frefh from the weft, accompanied with violent thunder, 
 lightning and rain. The next morning (the nth) at 
 three o'clock, Captain King weighed anchor, and fteered 
 for Prince's Ifland, at which place they arrived on the 
 14th. 
 
 On the morning of the 19th, being favoured f>y ft 
 north- wefterly breeze, we broke ground, toour extreme • 
 
 fatif-v 
 
370 
 
 A voVage to the 
 
 fatisfad^ion, for the laft time in the firaits of Sunday 
 and on the 20th we had totally loft fight of Prince's 
 Ifland. . 
 
 As this ifland has been defcribcd by Captain Cook in 
 the narrative of a former voyage, we fhall only add, 
 that we w^re uncommonly ftruck with the great general 
 refemblance of the natives in point of comple£tion, 
 figure, manners, and even language, to the inhabi- 
 tants of the vaiious iflands vifited by .us in the Pacific 
 Ocean, 
 
 I'he country is fo plentifully furnifhed with wf od, 
 that, notwithftanding the quantities annually cut down 
 by the crews of the vefTels which touch at this ifland, 
 there is no appearance of its diminution. We were -well 
 fupplied with fowls of a very moderate fize, and fmall 
 turtles ; the former of which we purchafed at the rat* 
 of a Spanifh dollar for ten. The natives likewife brought 
 us many hog-deer, and an amazing number of mon* 
 kies, to our great annoyance, as the greater part of our ' 
 iitilors fovnd means to procure one, if not two, of 
 thefe troublefome and mifchievous animals. ^ 
 
 The latitude of the anchoring-place at Prince's 
 Ifland is 6^ 36' 15^^ fouth, and its longitude 105° 17^ 
 30^^ eaft. 
 
 We had begun to experience, from the time of our 
 entering the ftraits of Banca, the pernicious efFe6ls of 
 this noxious climate. Two of the Difcovery's people 
 became dangeroufly ill of malignant putrid fevers; 
 which, however, were prevented from being commu- 
 nicated to others, by. putting the patients apart from the 
 reft of the crew in the moft airy births. Many o^ us 
 were attacked with difagreeable coughs; feveral com- 
 plained of violent pains in the head; and even the moft 
 healthy perfons among us felt a feulation of fufFocating 
 heat, accompanied wUh an extreme languor,^ and ato- 
 tal lofs of appetite. 
 
 . Though our fituation, hqwev.er, was for a tim^ thus 
 uneafy,, and even alarming, we had, at laft, the inex-r 
 preilible fatisfadlion of efcaping from thefe deftru<fi:ive 
 IsAS without the lofs of a (ingle life. This circum- 
 • ^ance^ 
 
Sunday 
 Prince's 
 
 I!ook in 
 ly addj 
 general 
 ledlion, 
 inhabi • 
 Pacific 
 
 1 wrv')d, 
 It down 
 s iilandy 
 erewell 
 id fmall 
 :he rut« 
 wrought 
 f mon* 
 : of our 
 two, of 
 
 Prince'* 
 of our 
 
 feas of 
 
 people 
 fevers ; 
 ommu- 
 rom the 
 y of us 
 il com- 
 le moft 
 beating 
 ad ato- 
 ll^ thus 
 le inex-r 
 crutiitive 
 circum- 
 
 ^ance> 
 
 PACIFIC O C E AK. 37I 
 
 llance, in all probability, was partly owing to the vi- 
 gorous health of the (hip's companies, on our firft ar- 
 rival in thefe parts, as well as to the unremitting at- 
 tention, that was now become habitual in our men, to 
 the prudent and falutary regulations introduced among 
 us by Captain Cook. 
 
 Captain (iore had hitherto defigned to proceed di» 
 ^•edlly to the ifland of St. Helena, without flopping at 
 the Cape of Good Hope ; but, as the Relblution's rud- 
 der had been, for fome time, complaining, and, on exr 
 amination, was found to be in a dangerous flate, he 
 formed the refolution of repairing immediately to the 
 Cape, as being the molt eligible place, both for provid- 
 ing a new main-piece to the rudder, and for the recovery 
 of his £ck* 
 
 On Monday the xoth of April, at break of day, 
 the land made its appearance to the north-weflward; 
 snd, in the courfe of the morning, a fnow was feen 
 bearing down to us. She proved to be an Englifh 
 Eafl-India packet, which had quitted Table- bay, three 
 days before, and was now cruifmg with inflrudtions 
 for the China fleet, and other India fhips. She in- 
 formed us that Monfieur I'rongollei's fquadron, con- 
 fiding of half a dozen fail, had left the Cape^ about 
 three weeks before, and wa$ gone to cruife off St. 
 Helena, in fearch of our Eafl-India fleet. From this 
 intelligence we conjeftured, that fiwe veflels we had 
 feen liecring to the eaflward, probably belonged to 
 the French fquadron; which, in . that cafe, had re- 
 linquifhed their cruife, and were, perhaps, proceeding 
 to the ifland of Mauritius. Having communicated 
 our conjecftures to the packet, and likewife mentioned 
 the tfme we under ft ood the China fleet was to fail from 
 "Canton, we left her, and continued our progrefs to- 
 wards the Cape. In the evening, Falfe Cape Bore eaft- 
 north-eafl, and the Gunner's Quoin, north by eafl ; 
 but we were prevented by. the Wind from getting ihto 
 Falfe Bay, till the evening of the 12th, When v/e let 
 g« our anchors a-breafl ofSimeort's Bay, 
 
 ^ Captaia 
 
 ■« 
 
'^^■ 
 
 
 J7« 
 
 , V. 
 
 V d Y A O B^ 
 
 htoi 
 
 ^^iifmiP^ 
 
 Captain King, on Saturday the i^h, accompanied 
 Captain Gore to Cape Town; and, the followmg 
 morning, tliey waited on Baron Plettenberg, the go* 
 vernor, who received them with every pofTible demon^* 
 flration of civility and politen^fs. He entertained a 
 great perfonal afFedlion for Captain Cook, and pro* 
 fefiedthe higheft admiration of his charad^er; and, on 
 hearing the recital of his misfortune, broke forth into 
 many expreflions of unafFe£^ed forrow • In one of the 
 principal apartments of the Barents houfe, he (hewed 
 our gentlemen two pictures, one of De Ruyter, the 
 other of Van Tromp, with a vacant fpace left be- 
 tween them, which he faid, he intended to fill up with 
 the portrait of Captain Cook ; and, for this purpofe, 
 he requefted that they 'ould endeavour to procure one 
 for him, at aiiy pric , on their arrival in Great 
 Britain. 
 
 On Saturday, the 12th of Augufl we defcried the 
 weftern coaft of Ireland, and endeavoured to get into 
 l^ort Galway, from whence Captain Gore intended to 
 liave difpatched tlie journals and charts of our voyage 
 to London. This attempt, however, proved ineffe6tual ; 
 and we were compelled by violent foutherly winds, to 
 Hand to the north. 
 
 Our next defign was to put mto Lough Swilly, but 
 the wind continuing in the fame quarter, we fleered to 
 the northward of the iiland of Lewis; and on Tuefday 
 the and of Augufl, about eleven o'clock in the fore- 
 iHooQ, both our veflels anchored at Stromnefs. From 
 this place Captain King was fent by Captain Gore to 
 infornir the Lords of the Admiralty of our arrival; and 
 Cfn Wednefday the 4.th of 0£lober> the fhips reached 
 the Nore in fafety, after an abfence of four years, two 
 |nonthS| and two and twenty days. 
 
 T a s 1 N r>t 
 
PPSPPH' 
 
 ipaniej 
 tlov;mg 
 the go- 
 demoti'* 
 ained si 
 id pro- 
 md, on 
 th into 
 5 of the 
 fhewed 
 tcr, the 
 left he- 
 lp with 
 )urpofe, 
 :iirc one 
 I Great 
 
 ried the 
 get into 
 nded to 
 voyage 
 (FecStual; 
 inds, to 
 
 illy, but 
 eered to 
 Fuefday 
 ie fore- 
 From 
 Gore to 
 ^al; and 
 reached 
 ars, two