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Thoaa too iarga to ba antlraly includad in ona axposura ara fllmad baginning in tha uppar laft hand comar. laft to right and top to bottom, aa many framaa aa raquirad. Tha following diagrams iiluatrata tha mathod: Laa cartaa, planchaa, tablaaux. ate. pauvant Atra fllmte i daa taux da reduction diffArants. Lorsqua la documant aat trop grand pour Atra raproduit an un saul cllchA. 11 aat fllmA A partir da I'angla aupAricur gaucha, da gaucha A drolta, at da haut mt baa. an pranant la nombra d'Imagaa nAcassaira. Laa diagrammaa suivants illuatrant la mAthoda. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 17 ^^y THE ANTIQUITIES & LEGENDS OF A LECTURE B£]' ' ^.i. ••;• : >- • .»^" • it;, "( , ■■:;;. '■ri,; ' THE ..>■■ ■■,-••■*,* ''■>■ 'dli, I'. ANTIQUITIES & LEGENDS OF DURHAM, ■♦ ^ Durham abounds in noble antiquities, and is rich in marvelous legends. When in Durham, I had many opportunities of examining its antiquities and collecting its legends, I have thrown together from various sources, some remarks on the afore- mentioned subjects, which I trust may interest the members of this Society. The appearance of the City of Durham from a •distance is grand and imposing, from its romantic site, a rocky eminence of considerable hei°'fit, al- most encircled by the River Wear. It is partly sur- rounded by the ancient city walls, beneath which on one side, the slope of the hill is adorned with well planted gardens and ornamented walks, de- scending to the edge of the River, while on the other side the ground is rocky and precipitous. Durham received its appellation from two Saxon words, ^un, a hill, and Ji^Qlm, low ground. No important settlement took place here before the time of the Saxons, and the town did not attain any celebrity until after the Norman conquest. Its t,. importance at once arose with Saint Cufhbcrt, whose shrine became a place of pilgrimage. Cuthbert began life as a shepherd, in the valley of the Tweed, not far from Melrose, where a religi- ous house had recently been established under the auspices of St. Aiden. As Cuthbert was one day playing at ball with his companions, there stood among them a fair young child, and he said to Cuthbert, ** Good brother, leave these vain plays ; set not thy heart upon them ; mind thy book ; has not God chosen thee out to be great in his ( hurcli ?" But Cuthbert heeded him not, and the fair child wrung his hands and wept, and threw himself down on the ground in great heaviness, and when Cuth- bert ran to comfort him he said, ** Nay, my brother, it is for thee I weep, thatpreferest thy vain sports ta the teaching of the servants of God," and then he vanished suddenly, and Cuthbert knew that it was an angel that had spoken to him, and from that time forth his piety and love of learning recom- mended him to the good Prior of Melrose, who in- structed him carefully in the Holy Scriptures. About this time Oswald, the pious Kin^ of North- umberland, had embraced Christianity, and in order to convert his people, had invited St. Aiden to plant the cross in his kingdom. Aiden made choice of the Island of Lindisfarne for his Monastry, and wrought wonders of peace and refinement amongst the turbulent nobles of the north, and had acquired a high fame as a saint. On a certain night as Cuthbert watched his flocks by the river-side, he beheld aglorious vision of angels, who were bearing as he ing the soul of his preceptor Aideii, into heavenly bliss, whereupon he forsook hiy .sheplierd's life,and entering the monastry of Melrose, he became after a few years agreat and eloquent preacher, converting the people around ; when he exhorted them, such a brightness appeared in his angelic fiice, that no man could conceal from hi in the most hidden secrets of the heart. Removing from Melrose to Lindisfarne, he dug a well, and sowed barley, and supported himself by the labor of his hands, after some years, Cuthbert was made Bishop of Lindisfarne, and in this office, he was venerated and loved by all men. At theend of two years he returned to his hermitage, where he shortly after died, and was buried in Lindisfarne abbey; andtenyears after his body upon examination was found in a state of perfect preservation, after removing some of the robe^, and substituting others they enshrined him in a wooden coffin, and thenceforth Cuthbert became the Sainted Prelate of the see. In 875, the Danes landed in Northumberland and compelled the Mouks to flee from Lindisfarne carrying with them the body of Saint Cuthbert and their other reliques. The Bishop of Lindisfarne, with his clergy and their treasure, wandered from place to place, and among others to Chester-le- Street and Ripon. Four months after their arrival at the latter place the Danish war ceased, and they intended to bring tlie remains of the Saint again to Chester-le-Street, but crossing on the east side of Durham to Wardenlaw, they could not remove his 6 l>ody further. This strange incident produced much astonishment, and the monks fasted and prayed for three days to know by revehition what to do. At length it was revealed to one of them that the body should be carried to Dunholm. They were again in great distress not knowing where Dunholm lay; but as they proceeded a women wanting her cow called aloud to her companion to know if she had seen it? she answered it was in Dunholm* This was a happy sound to the distressed Monks, they followed the woman, and when she found her Cow they laid down their precious burthen. A temporary covering and support for the ark of St. Cuthbert was made of branches of trees, upon the place where the church of Saint Mary le bow stands, the adjunct le bow is derived from the boughs of which the building was made. They now laid the foundation of an abbey, in three years the work was nearly finished, and the body of St. Cuthbert was enshrined within the walls; this fabric after standing ninety eight years, was pulled down and the present magnificent pile was erected, into which the body of St. Cuthbert was removed from the temporay shrine on the Cloister green, to the right of the High Alter, in 1106. When the rude Danes burn'd their pile. The Monks fled forth from Holy Isle, Oe'r northern mountain, marsh, and moor, From sea to sea, from shore to shore. Seven years Saint Cuthbert's corpse they bare. They rested them in fair Melrose ; But though, alive, he loved it wellr Not there his relics might repose ; For wonderous tale to tell ! In his stone coffin forth he rides, A pondrous bark for river tides, Yet light as gossamer it glides. Downward to Tilmouth cell. Nor long was his abiding there, For southward did the saint repair? Chester-le- street, and Rippon saw His holy corpse, ere Ward i law Hail'd him with joy and fear ; And after many wanderings past, He chose his lordly seat at last, Where his Cathedral, huge and vast, Looks down upon the Wear : There, deep in Durham's gothic shade, His relics are in secret laid ! The Cathedral, (Abbey Church) is the principal boast of Durham, the prevailing character of it» architecture is distinguished by round headed arches, massive columns and weighty finishings, and is best understood by the term Anglo-Norman. The northern side, preserves its Norman character nearly entire. The grotesque head and ring of metal upon the north door are ornaments of the Norman period. On the north-western tower, is a sculptured repre- sentation of the legend of the Durham cow. There is an old cow, looking as quaint and ancient as need be, and after the manner of old painters, the two women in the very presence of the cow itself, are 8 I patting and answering the question where the cow was to be found. Beneath the western tower was the Sanctuary, where murderers, rogues and vagabonds, met with protection. The culprit upon knocking at the ring affixed to the north door was admitted without de- lay, and after confessing his crime, a bell in the gaiilee tower ringing all the while to give notice to the town that some one had taken refuge, there was put upon him a black gown with a yellow cross upon his left shoulder, as the badge of St. Cuthbert. When thirty-seven days had elapsed, if no pardon could be obtained, the malefactor, after certain cere- monies before the shrine, was sent out of the king- dom. In the pavement of the middle aisle of the nave, beyond the font, there is a cross of blue marble, that marked the boundary beyond which females were not permitted to advance in the direction of the shrine of St. Cuthbert. The monastic buildings were equally sacred. Queen Philippa, wife of Ed- ward III., when at Durham with her husband, in 1333, was compelled to leave his bed in the priory, in the middle of the night, and run half dressed to the Castle. The Galilee was built for the use of women. As soon as it was finished the shrine of the venerable Bede was removed into it. Bede was born at Yar- row, in Northumberland, A.D. 673. He was an eminent ecclesiastic and writer. His most valuable work is the Ecclesiastical History of the Saxons. When he died his scholars desired to place a rhym- m ' j i y ing inscription oa his Altar Tomb. The Monk wrote, " JJEac &tinl Lii fo.^Aa, J^edae a&sa, phicing o.^&a at the latter end of the verse for the rhyme, but not being able to think of a proper epithet that would stand before it, in his perplexity he fell asleep, but when he awukened, he found his verse filled up by an Angel,staudingin fair letters upon the tomb, thus HAG SViVr IN FOSSA, BKDJl^ VENERA- IJILIS OSSA. Several personages of distinction are interred within the walls of the Abbey Church, whose tombs I will not at present attempt to describe, nor will I tuiter into details respecting the Church, Chapels, CL/isters, Dormitory, Refectory and other depart- >rary aJso contains numerous antiquities, among the rest several Roman Altars, found! at differei^t periods, iu the counties of Durham and i\ortbuml>erlaiid. And a cabinet of coins and other curiosities, collected chiefly in Greece and the Holy Land, in this cabinet is preserved the original matrix 'la brass of the obverse of the seal used by the convent from the foundation to the dissohition. Bishop Cosin was the most distinguished of the numerous munificent prelates of which Durham can boast, and author of an admirable manuel of devotions for the hours of prayer ; compiled by him at the desire of King Charles the Martyr. It is recorded that this good Bishop did on Candlemas day, 1628, busy himself from two o'clock in the afternoon until four in climbing long ladders to stick up wax ctmdles in the Cathedral, the number of the candles burnt that evening to the honor of our Lady was two hundred and twenty, besides sixteen torches, sixty of the tapers and torches standing upon and near the High Altar. The Cathedral Vergers exhibit the rich Copes and Robes which were worn on Sundays during the Communion Service, by the officiating prebendary and minor canons, until 1756, the restoration of the use of these vestments is much to be desired. And as the session of the convocation of canterbury was opened last February on the festival of the Purifica- tion of Saint Mary the Virgin (Candlemas day) in Saint Paul's Cathedral with the ancient formularies € II rks, by ry also le rest iods, ilk . And jllectecl In this )rass oi lit from 1 of the 3urhan[i nuel of by him \ It is J diem as in the to stick PI of the of our sixteeri landing t^pes and ing the bendary >n oi the L And ury was 'nrifica- day) in nularies w M and vestments, the Bishops wearing Scarlet Chimeres, and the Archbis-hop being vested in H garment resembling a scarlet Cope with a long train borne by a verger, it is possible that the clergy of Durham, impelled by the force of good ex^imple, may restore to use the atbre^said cop&s and robes. The cemetery on the north side of tlie Cathedral was the favorite buriai place of the laity, not only of the city, but of the county at large. It is still used as a burial ground. In oM times there was tn the Diocese of Duitiam a good natured fellow who never WHjnt through a church yard without praying for the dead wko were buried in its soil, he was chased into the abbey church yard by some persons who had determined to kill him, when he glassed through the gate, the wholo surface of the ground began to bristle with swords and spears, starting out of the earth in his defence. Those whose remains it contained, out of gratitude for his |)rayers, burst fortb each clad in the armour which lie laad worn when alive, and most effectually protect- *ed him from his foes. The Palace Green was the place where the scold- ing women of the city were punished. The lane !lea(5ingfrom Palace Green to the city wall, the pre- sent Dun Cow Lane, was of old called King's gate, from the circumstance, that William the Conqueror was glad to escape through it from the shrine where be had been taken with sickness in cosequence of infidelity on the subject of Saint Cuthbert. On tbe north side of Palace Green in the Castle, within the walls of the Castle of Durham, chivalry 12 jll in «^eiieral, bore the ascondancy. TheBishopin tlie early centuries of the see, merited in the peer, wlio held his pakitine Iranchise ibr the express purpose of protecting his portion of the north ofKn^^land from Scottish invasion. The cMstleoccnpied ])ytlie' early Saxon Bishops of Durham was destroyed in 1069, and rebuilt in 1074 hy William the Conqueror. Upon the ground floor is the Chapel, in a state of great perfectness, with its genuine Norman pave- ment, and piers and arches. The keep or citadeJ built by Wiliiam the Conqueror still remains, and occupies the summit of an artificiaJ mound. Sir William Wallace is said to have been imprisoned in the dungeon of this keep. The noble castle re- tains much of its original military aspect and is a residence of the Bishop as well asthc Ecclesiastical University. On the north side of Elvet Bridge is an old build- ing formerly used as a house of correction. This building is said to be haunted by the restless spirit of an old piper, Avho, was brought down the river by a flood, and on being rescued from the water be- 2; Sniiit Godric, a Hermit, selected this sweet sc(Mie ibr his devotions in the twelfth century. The ruins areof the early English style, of considerable extent, a«id present may fine poiiiis. It is said vestiges still remain of a sub- terraneous passage forninunicating with Durham Abbey. In ^oing from Durham to Newcastle, you ap- pionch Chestcr-)e-street, it has many recommenda- tions to the Anlirpiary and is built upon an old Koman road. The church has been fiimous from the times of Saint Cnthbert, whos^e remains rested there. At a short distance from Chester-Ie-street, stands Lumley ca&tle, a seat of the Earl of Scarborough. This stately building was constructed by Sir Robert Lumley in the reign of Edward the First. The Castle is finely situated on elevated ground, and is composed of a yellow free stone, the tint of which is brightand beautiful when viewed from a distance. The structure displays the embattled character of buildings in the warlike ages, on the east side the projecting gateway is commanded by turrets and by a gallery pierced with holes for the purpose of pour- ing down heated lead, or other destructive ingre- dients on its assailants. The interior is magnificent. The great Hall among other memorials of the days of old English chivalry, contains the effigy of a knight on horseback, encased in complete armour. It is said there are as many windows in Lumley castle as there are days in the year. IG |l:i' A little farther north stands Lambton Hall, the seat oi'the Earl of Durham. It is a modern edifice situated on an elevated position on the North bank of the Wear. One of the most remarkable things about Lambton is the Legend of the worm. The heir of Lambton, fishing in the Wear on Sunday, hooked a small worm, which he carelessly threw into a well. The worm grew till it was too large for the well, and issuing forth betook itself to the Wear, where it usually lay a part of the day coiled round a crag in the middle of the water; it also frequented a green mound near the well, called thence " the worm hill." It became the terror of the country ; and levied a daily contribution of nine cows' rniik. YoungLambton having, totally re- pented of his former life, had bathed himselfin holy water, taken the sign of the cross and joined the crusaders. (>)n his return home, he was extremely shocked at witnessing the effects of his youthful imprudence, and immediately undertook to destroy the worm, but the crusader was foiled by his ene- my's power of self-union, at length he consulted a witch. By her advice he armed himself in a coat of mail studded with blades, and placed him- self on the crag. At the usual time the worm came to the rock, and wound himself with great fury round the armed knight, and cut himself to pieces with his own efibrts. The witch had promised Lambton successuponcondition that he wouldslay the first living creature he met after his victory, he met his father, butinstead of fulfilling the condition he again repaired to th6 witch, who pronounced as ;d as 17 the alternative that no chief of the Lambton*s should die in his bed for seven generations. The Roman citadel of Lanchester in the county of Durham is celebrated for the relics which it has yielded of its ancient masters. On a rugged and hilly tract of ground, abrnt one mile west of Durham, was fought the celebrated battle of Ked Hills or Nevill's cross. The battle took place in October, 1346. King David entered Northumberland with fifty thousand men, and carried his devastations to tlie j^ates of Durham. The great northern Barons of England, Percy, Ne- ville and others, assembled a few thousand men. The Archbishops of Canterbury and York, and the Bishops of Durham, Carlisle and Lincoln, sent their retainers and attended the rendezvous in person, to add religious enthusiasm to the patriotic zeal of the Barons. And the standard of St. Cuthbert was proudly displayed among the banners oflhe nobil- ity. King Edward HI. being in Fnmco, liis Qno(»n Phillippa at the head of the>(' troops, Mpf)rfKichf'd the Scotch forces at Ked Hills, and riding through the ranks oflier ariny she (^xliortcd every man to do his duty, when ontrustiiiii: (lie command to Lord Percy she retiied. TheScotcliarmy wascommand- ed by King David linice, assisted by the Steward of Scotland, the kni^^lit of LiddisdMJc, and the Karls of Moray and Dunbn'. Tlio fight was severe, hut the Koyal banner of Scotland was doomed soon to fall. A Northumberland knight, named Copeland, grappled with King David and iiiadt him prisoner, and the battle terminated in the defeat of the Scoi- 18 tish forces, fifteen thousand of whom were slain. The total number of Knglish engaged in this battle was sixteen thousand. The captive king was conveyed to the tower of I ondon, from which he was shortly after ransomed for ninety thousand marks sterling. A stone cross was afterwardserect- edon the battle ground to commemorate the victory by Kalph, Lord Neville, some steps and part of the base still remain, from the top of which it is said the ravens will drink blood in some future age, when the same ground will again be covered with the slain. Brancepeth Castle is some four miles distant from Durham. It raises its wide range of turrets and battlements from a plain. You enter by a gate with a port cullis, the strength and extent of the building is surprising. Many a time had the Old Castle been sacked and destroyed by the Martial Scots, the piesent building was restored or rather rebuilt by Mr. Russel I . The entrance Hall is verv fine. In it stands the suit of armour still richly inlaid with gold, said to be that of David Bruce, king of Scot- land, taken at Nevill's cross. The hall has large oaken seats, the arms of which terminate with well carved boars or brawn's heads in allusion to the legend of the hii^e brawn, saidoncteto have haunt- ed this spot, and to have been killed by one of its lords, and thus giving its name to the place. Brawn's path (Brancepeth). In the Haron's Hall there is a fine collection of armour, and arms of all sorts. When the proprietor of the Castle was ap- plied to by gentlemen for the loan of suits of 19 armour to wear at the Egliu^jfton tournainenl, few could be found capacious enough for tiie persons who wanted them, a convincing proof, that men have not decreased in size in modern times. About fifteen miles from Durham stands Raby Castle, the supurb seat of the Duke of Cleveland. This is a specimen of a Baronial mansion of the first class, it was chiefly erected by John Earl of Westmoreland, in the fourteenth century. The building is situated on rising ground, and is sur- rounded with an embattled wall. The principal entrance is grand, and leads through a double gate and covered way, flanked by square touers which are connected by a hanging gallery, various towers unite the line of fortification with the gate of en- trance. The interior of the castle contains many noble apartments, but the fnlrain'e hall is most conspicuous for vastness and ••THndeur. Inthisim- inense room carriages of the Earl's visitors are ad- mitted. Above the entraucehall is the Old Baronial Hall, in which the ancient Baronial festivals were celebrated, and seven hundred knights are recorded to have here shared the banquet of the castle at one time; at the west end of the room is a stone gallery in which the rninstiels sat. There are passages channelled in the walls of the castle. Bernard castle is twenty miles from Durham, and situated on an eminence which rises with a steep acent from the river Tees. It was erected shortly after the Norman conquest, by Barnard son of Guy Baliol. It became vested in the crown and was a favorite residence of Richard III. This fortress sus- 20 (ained a sic^e during the rebellion of the Etirl of Westmoreland, in the reij^^n of Queen Klizabeth, and has since fallen into deeay. The walks in the environs ot the eity of Durham are exceedinjL^ly pleasant. In iill direetions rustic and secluded lanes istretelioH", alon^ which you may wander, or strike across the fields, climb stiles, as- cend hills, descend into woody dells, Ibllow the course of a stream, and never find yourself trespass- ing where you should not, and when returning to the city, you are first struck with the great central tower of the Abbey peeping over the hills that en- velope the old town. As you enier