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THE RIYER OF THE WEST. 
 
 -♦♦♦- 
 
 LIFE AND ADYENTUEE 
 
 Uf TBI 
 
 ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND OREGON; 
 
 IHBRACIHa BTlttTS I» TH« Ufl-TIMB OF A 
 
 MOUNTAIN-MAN AND PIONEER: 
 
 WITH TBI 
 
 Early History of the North-Western Slope, 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF THE FOR.TRADERS, THE INDIAN TRIBES, THE OVERLAND IMMIGRA- 
 TION, THE OREGON MISSIONS, AND THE TRAGIC FATE OF 
 REV. DR. WHITMAN AND FAMILY. 
 
 ALSO, A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY, 
 
 ITS CONDITION, PROSPECTS, AND RESOURCES ; ITS SOIL, CLIMATE, AND SCENERY ; 
 
 ITS MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, VALLEYS, DESERTS, AND PLAINS ; ITS 
 
 INLAND WATERS, AND NATURAL WONDERS. 
 
 ■WITH NTJaiEROTJS KKrGHI,A.VINa-S. 
 
 BY MRS. FRANCES FULLER VICTOR. 
 
 FUBLISH2S B7 SOBSCaiFTIOiT 0»L7. 
 
 HARTFORD. OONN.: 
 
 .BLISS & CO,, NEWARK, N. J. ; W. E. BLISS & CO., TOLEDO, 0.: 
 
 B. J. TRUMBULL & CO., SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 
 
 1870. 
 
I 
 
 t ■: '. 
 
 
 ft'-f 
 
 I 
 
 ii 
 
 Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 18fi9, by 
 
 R. W. ULISS & CO., 
 
 In the Clerk's OflRce of the District Court of the United States for the District of 
 
 Connecticut. 
 
ic District of 
 
 •WE FIND THEM, ACCORDINGT-Y, HARDY, tITHE, VIGOROUS, AND AC- 
 TIVE : EXTRAVAGANT IN WORD, IN THOUGHT, AND DEED : HEEDLESS OF 
 hardship; DARING OF DANGER; PRODIGAL OF THE PRESENT, AND 
 THOUGHTLESS OF THE FUTURE. — Irving. 
 
v< 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 When the author of this book has been absorbed in the 
 elegant narratives of Washington Irving, reading and 
 musing over Astoria and Bonneville^ in the cozy quiet of 
 a New York study, no prescient motion of the mind ever 
 gave prophetic indication of that personal acquaintance 
 which has since been formed with the scenes, and even 
 with some of the characters which figure in the works just 
 referred to. Yet so have events shaped themselves that 
 to me Astoria is familiar ground ; Forts Vancouver and 
 Walla- Walla pictured forever in my memory ; while such 
 journeys as I have been enabled to make into the coantry 
 east of the last named fort, have given me a fair insight 
 into the characteristic features of its mountains and its 
 plains. 
 
 To-day, a railroad traverses the level stretch between 
 the Missouri River and the Rocky Mountains, along which, 
 thirty years ago, the fur-traders had worn a trail by thei 
 annual excursions with men, pack-horses, and sometime 
 wagons, destined to the Rocky Mountains. Then, they 
 had to guard against the attacks of the Savages ; and in 
 this respect civilization is behind the railroad, for now, as 
 then, it is not safe to travel without a sufi&cient escort. 
 To-day, also, we have new Territories called by several 
 names cut out of the identical hunting-grounds of the fur- 
 traders of thirty years ago ; and steamboats plying the 
 rivers where the mountain-men came to set their traps for 
 beaver; or cities growing up like mushrooms from a soil 
 
IV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 made quick by f^old, where the hardy mountain-hunter 
 pursued the buH'alo herds in search of hia winter's supply 
 ol' food. 
 
 Tlic wonderful romance which once gave enchantment 
 to stories of luirdship and of daring deod ', suffered and 
 done in these then distant wilds, is fast being dissipated 
 by the rapid settlement of the new Territories, and by the 
 familiarity of the public mind with tales of stirring adven- 
 ture encountered in the search for glittering ores. It was, 
 then, not without an emotion of pleased surprise that I 
 first encountered in the fertile plains of Western Oregon 
 the subject of this biography, a man fifty-eight years of 
 age, of fine appearance and buoyant temper, full of i*i.ec- 
 dotc, and with a memory well stored with personal recol- 
 lections of all the men of note who have formerly visited 
 the old Oregon Territory, when it comprised the whole 
 country west of the Rocky Mountains lying north of Cali- 
 fornia and south of tlie forty-ninth parallel. This man is 
 Joseph L. Meek, to whose stories of mountain-life I have 
 listened for days together; and who, after having figured 
 conspicuously, and not without considerable fame, in the 
 early history of Oregon, still prides himself most of all on 
 having been a "mountain-man." 
 
 Most persons are familiar with the popular, celebrated 
 .idian pictures of the artist Stanley ; and it cannot fail to 
 /iter est the reader to learn that in one of these Meek is 
 represented as firing his last shot at the pursuing Savages. 
 He was also the hero of another picture, painted by an 
 English artist. The latter picture represents him in a con- 
 I test with a grizzly bear, and has been copied in wax for 
 the benefit of a St. Louis Museum, where it has been re- 
 peatedly recognized by Western men. 
 
 It has frequently been suggested to Mr. Meek, who has 
 now come to be known by the fsnaPhc title of "Uncle 
 
INTRODUCTION. ▼ 
 
 Joe" to all Oregon, that a history of his varied ail ventures 
 would make a readable book, and some of his neighbors 
 have even undertaken to become his historian, yet with so 
 little well-directed efforts that the task after all has fallen 
 to a comparative stranger. I conff^ssto having taken hold 
 of it with some doubts as to my claims to the office; and 
 the best recommendation I can give my work is the inter- 
 est I myself felt in the subjec fit; and the only apology 
 I can offer for anything incredii' c in the narrative which 
 it may contain, is that I " tell the tale as 'twas told to mc," 
 and that I have no occasi: iT to doubt the trutli of it. 
 
 Mr. Meek has not attempted to disguise the fact that he, 
 as a mountain-man, "did tho.se things which he ought not 
 to have done, and left undone those things which he ought 
 to have done." It will be seen, by referring to Mr. Ir- 
 ving's account of this class of men, as given him by Capt. 
 Bonneville, that he in no wise differed from the majority 
 of them in his practical rendering of the moral code, and 
 his indifference to some of the commandments. Yet, no 
 one seeing Uncle Joe in his present aspect of a good- 
 humored, quiet, and not undignified citizen of the " Plains," 
 would be likely to attribute to him any very bad or dan- 
 gerous qualities. It is only when recalling the scenes of 
 his early exploits in mountain life, that the smouldering 
 fire of his still fine eyes brightens up with something sug- 
 gestible of the dare-devil spirit which characterized those 
 exploits, and made him famous even among his compeers, 
 when they were such men as Kit Carson, Peg-Leg Smith, 
 and others of that doughty band of bear-fighters. 
 
 Seeing that the incidents I had to record embraced a 
 period of a score and a half of years, and that they ex- 
 tended over those years most interesting in Oregon his- 
 tory, as well as of the history of the Fur Trade in the 
 West, I have concluded to preface Mr. Meek's adventures 
 
VI 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 with a sketch of the latter, believing that the information 
 thus conveyed to the reader will give an additional degree 
 of interest to their narration. The impression made upon 
 my own mind as I gained a knowledge of the facts which 
 I shall record in this book relating to the early occupation 
 of Oregon, was that they were not only profoundly roman- 
 tic, but decidedly unique. 
 
 In giving Mr. Meek's personal adventures I should have 
 preferred always to have clothed them in his own peculiar 
 language could my mefmory have served me, and above 
 all I should have wished to convey to the reader some im- 
 pression of the tones of his voice, both rich and soft, and 
 deep, too ; or suddenly changing, with a versatile power 
 quite remarkable, as he gave with natural dramatic ability 
 the perfect imitation of another's voice and manner. But 
 these fine touches of narrative are beyond the author's 
 skill, and the reader must perforce be content with words, 
 aided only by his own powers of imagination in conjuring 
 up such tones and subtile inflexions of voice as seem to 
 him to suit the subject. Mr. Meek's pronunciation is 
 Southern. He says "thar," and "whar," and "bar," 
 like a true Virginian as he is, being a blood relation of one 
 of our Presidents from that State, as well as cousin to other 
 one-time inmates of the White House. Like the children 
 of many other slave-holding planters he received little at- 
 tention, and was allowed to frequent the negro quarters, 
 while the alphabet was neglected. At the age of sixteen 
 he could not read. He had been sent to a school in the 
 neighborhood, where he had the alphabet set for him on 
 ^ a wooden "paddle;'' but not liking this method of in- 
 struction he one day "hit the teacher over the head with 
 it, and ran home," where ho was sulTered to disport him- 
 self among his black associates, clad like themselves in a 
 tow frock, and guiltless of shoes and stockings. This sort 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Vll 
 
 
 of training was not without its advantages to the physical 
 man ; on the contrary, it produced, in this instance, as in 
 many others, a tall, broad-shouldered, powerful and hand- 
 some man, with plent} of animal courage and spirit, 
 though somewhat at the expense of the inner furnishing 
 which is supposed to be necessary to a perfect develop- 
 ment. In this instance, however, Nature had been more 
 than usually kind, and distinguished her favorite with a 
 sort of inborn grace and courtesy which, in some phases 
 of his eventful life, served him well. 
 
 Mr. Meek was born in Washington Co., Virginia, in 
 1810, one year before the settlement of Astoria^ and at a 
 period when Congress was much interested in the question 
 of our Western possessions and their boundary. "Mani- 
 fest destiny " seemed to have raised him up, together with 
 many others, bold, hardy, and fearless men, to become 
 sentinels on the outposts of civilization, securing to the 
 United States with comparative ease a vast extent of ter- 
 ritory, for which, without them, a long struggle with Eng- 
 land would have taken place, delaying the settlement of 
 the Pacific Coast for many years, if not losing it to us alto- 
 gether. It is not without a feeling of genuine self-congrat- 
 ulation, that I am able to bear testimony to the services, 
 hitherto hardly recognized, of the " mountain-men " who 
 have settled in Oregon. Whenever there shall arise a 
 studious and faithful historian, their names shall not be 
 excluded from honorable mention, nor least illustrious will 
 appear that of Joseph L. Meek, the Rocky Mountain Hunt- 
 er and Trapper. 
 
 i 
 
 A>, 
 
 -■(1' ii 
 
w 
 
 ' ■ V,. 
 
 -.'P'Ja ■'*' i '■■' 
 
 -■r^-'FMr^'.i{^^, 
 
 SUNSET AT THE MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 There sinks the sun ; like cavalier of old, 
 
 Servant of crafty Spain, 
 H*'. flaunts bis banner, barred with blood and gold, 
 
 Wide o'er the western main ; 
 A thousand spear heads glint beyond the trees 
 ' In columns bright and long. 
 While kindling fancy hears upon the breeze . s 
 
 The swell of shout and song. 
 
 And yet not here Spain's gay, adventuious host 
 
 Dipped sword or planted cross ; 
 The treasures guarded by tliis rock-bound coaat 
 
 Counted them gain nor loss. 
 The blue Columbia, sired by the eternal hills 
 
 And wedded with the sea, 
 O'er golden sands, tithes from a thousand rills, 
 
 Rolled in lone majesty — 
 
 Through deep ravine; through burning, barren plaiiii 
 
 Through wild and rocky strait. 
 Through forest dark, and mountain rent in twain 
 
 Toward the sunset gate; 
 While curious eyes, keen with the lust of gold. 
 
 Caught not the informing gleam. 
 These mighty breakers age on age have rolled 
 
 To meet this mighty stream. 
 
 Age after age these noble hills have kept, 
 
 The same majestic lines ; 
 Age after age the horizon's edge been swept 
 
 By fringe of pointed pines. 
 Summers and Winters circling came and went, 
 
 Bringing no change of scene ; 
 Unresting, and unhasting, and unspent, 
 
 Dwelt Nature here serene I 
 
ix 
 
 .K 
 
 Till God's own time to plant of Freedom's seed, 
 
 In this selected soil ; 
 Denied forever unto blood and greed, 
 
 But blest to honest toil. 
 There sinks the sun ; Gay cavalier no more I 
 
 His bpnners trail the sea, 
 And all his legions shining ou the shore 
 
 Fade into mystery. 
 
 The swelling tide laps on the shingly beach, 
 
 Like any starving thing ; 1' 
 
 And hungry breakers, white with wrath, upreach. 
 
 In a vain clamoring. 
 The shadows fall ; just level with mine eye 
 
 Sweet Hesper stands and shines, 
 And shines beneath an arc of golden sky, 
 
 Finked round with pointed pines. 
 
 A noble scene ! all breadth, deep tone, and power, 
 
 Suggesting glorious themes ; 
 Shaming the idler who would fill the hour 
 
 With unsubstantial dreams. 
 Be mine the dreams prophetic, shadowing forth 
 
 The things that yet shall be, 
 When throujrh this gate the treasures of the North 
 
 Flow outward to the sea> 
 
 ;(j' 
 
 - '. -r 
 
 ':^' .■ 
 
w 
 
 :^\ri~y}-C-('\r 
 
 ILLUSTEATIONS. 
 
 .,it 
 
 Paos. 
 Portrait of Joseph L. Meek. — Frontispiece. 
 
 The Enlistment, - - - - - - - 42 
 
 The Summer Rendezvous, .... _ 48 
 
 Beaver-daM; .....---66 
 
 The Three "Bares," -92 
 
 The Wrong End of the Tree, - - - - - 94 
 
 Branding Cattle, ------- 150 
 
 The Mule Fort, -----.- 155 
 
 The Free Trapper's Indian Wife, - - - - 177 
 
 Descending the Blue Mountains, - - - - - 211 
 
 The Bear in Camp, - - - - - - 219 
 
 Satisfkd with Bear Fighting, - - - .- - 221 
 
 The Trapper's Last Shot, - - - - - 229 
 
 The Squaw's Escape, - -. - - • - -231 
 
 A Buffalo Hunt, ------- 246 
 
 The Missionary Wedge, .--.-- 274 
 
 Wrecked in the Rapids, . . - . - 336 
 
 The Cascade Mountain Road-Hunters, . - - - 374 
 
 Massacre of Dr. Whitman and Family, of the Presbyterian 
 
 Mission, ----.... 410 
 
 Meek as Steamboat Runner, ----- 441 
 
 "Take Care Knox," - 461 
 
 A Mountain-man in Clover, ----- 451 
 
 Gov. Lane and Marshal Meek En Route to Oregon, - - 476 
 
 Oregon Beaver-money, ------ 486 
 
 Meek as United States Marshal, - - - - - 
 
 Mt. Ranier from Puget Sound, ----- 5GI 
 
 She udan'b First Battle-Ground, Columbia River, - - 568 
 
 Cas'-le Rock, ------- 5^9 
 
 Horse-Tail Fall, - - - - - - -570 
 
 View on the Columbia, ------ 571 
 
 Mt. Hood from the Dalles, - - - - - 878 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Pasi. 
 
 PREFATORY CHAPTER. 
 
 Astoria — Fort Vancouver — Its isolated Position— Precautions against In 
 dians — The Hudson's Bay Company — Its Policy and Intercourse with 
 the Indians — The Arrival of the " Brigade " — Other Yearly Arrivals — . 
 Punishment of Indian Offenders — Indian Strategy — A Hero — The 
 American Fur Companies — Their Dealings with the Indians — Ashley's 
 Expeditions to Green River— Attack on Smith's Party— Wyeth's Ex- 
 peditions—Fort Hall — Decline of the Fur Trade— Causes of the Indians' 
 Hostility — Dangers attending the Trapper's Life, - - - 23 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Early Life of Meek — He leaves Home — Enlists in a Fur Company — On 
 the March — A Warning Voice —Frontier Sports — Last Vestige of Civil- 
 ization — On the Plains — A first Adventure — A firm Front — A Parley — 
 The Summer Rendezvous — An enchanting Picture — Tlie Free Trap- 
 per's Indian Wife — Wild Carousals — Routine of Camp Life — Smoked 
 Moccasins versus Green Ones — A " Trifling Fellow," - - .41 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The Camp in Motion — A Trapping Expedition — Opposition to the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company — Beautiful Scenery — The Lost Leader Found — 
 Rejoicings in Camp — The "Luck" of the Trappers — Conference of 
 Leaders — The "Devil's Own" — Blackfoot Character — Account of the 
 Tribes, ---.----- 57 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 How Beaver are Taken — Beaver Dams — Formation of Meadows — Beaver 
 Lodges — " Bachelors " — Trapping in Winter — " Up to Trap " — Black- 
 feet oh the Trail — On Guard^The Trapper's Ruse — A disappointed 
 Bear — A Fight with Blackfeet — " Out of Luck — Alone in the Moun- 
 tains — Splendid Views — A Miserable Night — The last Luxury of Life — 
 The Awfulness of Solitude — A Singular Discovery — A Hell on Earth — 
 A Joyful Recognition — Hard Times in Camp — The Negro's Porcupine — 
 Craig's Rabbit — Deep Snows — What the Scout saw — Bighorn River— 
 " Colter's Hell " — An Alarm — Arrival at Wind River — Christmas, 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Removal to Powder River — A Trapper's Paradise — The Transformation 
 in the Wilderness — The Encampment by Night — Meek takes to Study — 
 
 64 
 
xii 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 Paoi. 
 On the Move — Loss of Horses and Traps — Robbed and Insulted by a 
 Bear — Crossing the Yellowstone — A Novel Ferriage — Annoyance from 
 Blackfeet — A Cache Opened — A Comrade Killed — Rude Burial Serv- 
 ice — Return to Rendezvous — Gay Times — Tlie old Partners take Leave, 82 
 
 .::,:'.'>:'..■:. .','.-.-'' CHAPTER V. Ay- I .. 
 Grizzly Bears — An Adventure with a Grizzly — The Three " Bares " — 
 The Mountain-Man's Manners — Joking the Leaders — The Irishman 
 and the Booshway — How Sublette climbed a Tree and escaped a Bear — 
 Rival Trappers — Whisky as a Strong Card — Ogden's Indian Wife — 
 Her Courage and Escape — Winter Quarters — Crow Horse-Tliieves — 
 An Expedition on Foot — Night Attack on the Indian Fort — Fitzpatrick 
 Missing — Destitution in Camp — A "Medicine-Man" consulted — "Mak- 
 ing Medicine" — A Vision Obtained — Fitzpatrick Found — Death of 
 Smith — An Expedition on Snow-Shoes, - - - - 90 
 
 ri 
 
 ' CHAPTER VI 
 
 Annoying Competition — The Chiefs Daughter — Sublette Wounded — 
 Forty Days of Isolation — Sublette and Meek captured by Snake In- 
 dians — A Solemn Council — Sentence of Death — Hope Deferred — A Res- 
 cue — The "Mountain Liirab" — An Obstinate Rival — Blackfeet Ma- 
 rauders — Fitzpatrick's Adventures in the IMountains — " When the Pie 
 was opened the Birds began to Sing " — Rough Sports — A Man on Fire — 
 Brigades ready for the Start — Blackfeet Caravan — Peaceful Overtures — 
 The Half-Breed's Revenge — A Battle — Reinforcements — Death of Sin- 
 clair — Sublette Wounded — Greenhorns — A false Alarm — Indian Adroit- 
 ness — A Deserted Fort — Incident of the Blackfoot Woman — Murder of 
 a Party by Blackfeet, - - - • --108 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 The March to the Humboldt — Scarcity of Game — Terrible Sufferings — 
 The Horrors of Thirst and Famine — Eating Ants, Crickets and Mules — 
 Return to Snake River — A lucky Discovery — A Trout Supper — The 
 Country of the Diggers — Some Account of Them — Anecdote of Wyeth 
 and Meek — Comparison of Indian Tribes — The Blackfeet — The Crows — 
 The Coast Tribes and the Mountain Tribes — The Columbia River 
 Indians — Tlieir Habits, Customs, and Dress — Indian Commerce — The 
 Indians of the Plairs — Their Dress, Manners, and Wealth — The Horses 
 of the Plains — La guage — The Indian's Moral Nature — Hungry and 
 Hospit..ole Sava . — A Trap set for a Rival — An Ambush — Death of 
 Vanderburg — Sku-mish with Blackfeet — The Woman Interpreter taken 
 Prisoner — Bravery of her Husband — Happy Finale — Meek Rescues the 
 " Mountain Lamb " — Intense Cold — Threatened by Famine — The Den 
 of Grizzlys— Second Daniels, - - - - --119 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XIU 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 Pa«i, 
 
 A Visit from Blackfeet — Tlie Green River Rendezvous — A " Powerful 
 Drunk" — Mad Wolf— A Friendly Warning— A Trip to tlie Salt Lake 
 Country — Meek Joins Jo. Walker's California Expedition — Instinct of 
 the Mule — On the Humboldt River — Massacre of Diggers at Mary's 
 River — Vain Explorations — Crossing the Sierra Nevadas — Hardships 
 and Sufferings — ITie Sacramento Valley — Delight of the Trappers — 
 Meeting with Spanish Soldiers — A Parley — Escorted to Monterey — A 
 Hospitable Reception — The Native Californians — Visit to the Mohave 
 Village — Meeting with Trapp and Jcrvais — Infamous Conduct at the 
 Moquis Village — The Return March, . - , - . 141 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 In the Camanche Country — A Surprise and a Rapid Movement — The 
 Mule Fort — A Camanche Charge — Sure Aim — Another Charge — More 
 Dead Indians — Woman's Weapon, the Tongue — Fearful Heat and Suf- 
 ferings from Thirst — The Escape by Night — llie South Park — Death 
 of Guthrie — Meeting with Bonneville — Indignant Reproaches, - - 154 
 
 C H A P T E R X . 
 
 Gossip at Rendezvous — Adventures in the Crow Country — Fitzpatrick 
 Picked by the Crows and Flies from Them — Honor among Thieves — 
 Unfair Treatment of Wyeth — Bonneville Snubbed at Walla- Walla — 
 He Rejects good Counsel — Wyeth's Tlireat, and its Fulfillment — Divis- 
 ion of Territory, - - - - - - -,- ICO 
 
 ■-■■■- " •* CHAPTER XI. 
 
 In the Blackfoot Country — A Visit to Wyeth's Trappers — Sorry Expe- 
 riences — Condolence and its EflTect — The Visitors become Defenders — 
 A Battle with Fire and Sword — Fighting for Lite — The Trappers' Vic- 
 tory — A Trapping Excursion — Meek Plays a Trick and has one Played 
 on Him — A Run to Camp — Taking up Traps — A Blackfoot Ambush — 
 A Running Fire — A lucky Escape — Winter Camp on the Yellowstone — 
 Interpretation of a Dream — A Buffalo Hunt and a Blackfoot Surprise — 
 Meek's Mule Story, .-.----. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. * 
 
 Setting up as a Family Man — First Love — Cut out by the Looshway — 
 Reward of Constancy — Beauty of Umentucken — Her Dress, Her Horse 
 and Equipments — Anecdotes of the Mountain Lamb — Her Quarrel with 
 The Trapper — Capture by Crows — Her Rescue — Meek Avenges an In- 
 sult — A Row in Camp — Tlie Female Element — Death of Umentucken, 
 
 166 
 
 175 
 
XIV 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Paoi. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Visitors at Rendezvous — Advent of Missionaries — "WTiat Brought Them — 
 Bonneville's account of the Nez Perces and Flatheads — An Knthusiastic 
 View of Their Characters — Origin of some of Their Religious Observ- 
 ances — An Indian's Idea of a God — Material Good Desired — Mistake 
 of the Missionaries — First Sermon in the Rocky Mountains — Interrupted 
 by Buffaloes — Precept and Example — Dr. Whitman's Character — The 
 Missionaries Separate — Dr. Whitman Returns to the States, - - 181 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Meek Falls into the Hands of Crows — The Story as He tells It — He Packs 
 Moccasins, and Bears the Jeers of the Fair Sex — Bridger's Camp Dis- 
 covered and the Lie Found out — A Desperate Situation — Signaling the 
 Horse-Guard — A Parley with Bridger — Successful Strategy — Capture 
 of Little-Gun — Meek Set at Liberty with a New Name — A Fort Be- 
 sieged by Bears — A Lazy Trapper — The Decoy of the Delawares — 
 Winter Amusements — The Ishmaelite of the Wilderness — March 
 through the Crow Country — Return to Green River — Punishment of the 
 Bannacks — Consolidation — An Excursion — Intercepted by Crows — A 
 Scattered Camp — The Escape, - - - - - 189 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 An Express from Fitzpatrick — The Approach of Missionaries Announc- 
 ed — The Caravan Welcomed by a Party of Trapjiers — Noisy Demonstra- 
 tions — Curiosity of the Indians — The Missionary Ladies — Preparations 
 in the Indian Villages — Reception of the Missionaries by the Nez Perces 
 and Flatheads — Kind Treatment from the Hudson's Bay Company — 
 The Missionaries' Land of Promise — Visit to Fort Vancouver — Selection 
 of Missionary Stations, - - - - - - - 201 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 The Den of Rattlesnakes — Tlie Old Frenchman — How to Keep Snakes 
 out of Bed— The Prairie Dog's Tenants at Will— Fight with Blackfeet — 
 Policy of War — A Duel Averted — A Run-away Bear — Meek's Best Bear 
 Fight — Winter Quarters on Powder River — Robbing Bonneville's Men, il4 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 A Dissipated Camp — A Crow Carousal — Picked Crows — A Fight with 
 Blackfeet— Manhead Killed— Night Visit to the Blackfoot Village— 
 " Cooning a River " — Stanley the Indian Painter — Desperate Fight 
 with Blackfeetr— " The Trapper's Last Shot "—War and Peace— In the 
 Wrong Camp — To Rendezvous on Wind River — Mr. Gray, and His 
 Adventures — Massacre of Indian Allies — Capt. Stuart Robbed by 
 Crow« — Newell's Address to the Chiefs, . - . _ 221 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XV 
 
 Paoi. 
 
 - 237 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. ,, 
 
 /)cclinc of the Fur Trade— Wild Scenes at Rendezvous— A IMlssionarjr 
 Party— Entertained by a War Dance— Meek in Armor— Deserted by 
 his Indian Spouse— The Tursuit—Meek abuses a Missionary and Kid- 
 naps; his Wife— Meek's Black Eyed Daughter— Singing for ti Biscuit- 
 Trapping Again— A hot March, and Fearful Suffering from Tliirst — 
 The Old Flathead Woman— Water at Last, 
 
 ■ ' ■ ■ -■• ■ •■ ■•'—■"/■ 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 A Chat about Buffalo Hunting— Buffalo Horses— The Start— The Pur- 
 suit— Tlie Charge— Tumbles- Horsemanship— The Glory of Mountain 
 
 Life How a Nez Perce Village Hunts Buffalo— Kit Carson and the 
 
 Frenchman on a Run — Mountain Manners, ... - 246 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 The Solitary Trapper— A Jest— Among the Nez Perces— Their Eagemesa 
 
 to be Taught— Meek is Called upon to Preach —He modestly Complies 
 Asks for a Wife — Polygamy Defended — Meek Gets a Wife— The 
 Preacher's Salary— Surprised by Blackfeet— Death of Allen —The Last 
 Rendezvous — Anecdote of Shawnee Jim — The new Wife Missing — 
 Meeting with Farnham— Cold and Famine— Succor and Food — Parties 
 at Fort Crockett — Setting up in Trade — How Al. Saved His Bacon — 
 Bad Times — War upon Horse Thieves — In Search of Adventures — 
 Green River Canyon — Runninsj Antelope — Gambling — Vain Hunt for 
 Rendezvous — Reflections and Half-Resolves — The last Trapping Expe- 
 dition, - - - - -- - - - 
 
 251 
 
 " CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 A new Start in Life — Mountain-Men for Pioneers — Discovery of the Co- 
 lumbia River — What Capt. Gray Did — What Vancouver Did — The 
 United States' Claim to Oregon— The Treaty of 1818— Plans for Colon- 
 izing Oregon — Yankee Enterprise — Hall .T. Kelley — Ball and Tibbits — 
 Execration of the H. B. Company — First Missionaries to the Wallamet — 
 Their Reception— Three Points in the H. B. Co. Policy— The Political 
 History of Oregon — Extracts from " Thirty Years in Congress " — Ben- 
 ton on the Oregon Claims — The Missionary Wedge — Character of Dr. 
 John McLaughlin — Hospitalities of Fort Vancouver — The Mission Re- 
 inforced — Other Settlers in the Wallamet Valley — IIow they Regarded 
 the Mission— The California Cattle Company— Distribution of Settlers, 264 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Westward Ho ! — Opening Wagon Roads — Republicanism — Fat Pork for 
 Preachers — Mission Work at Waiilatpu 
 lamet — Wagons Left at Walla-Walla- 
 2 
 
 -Helen Mar— Off for the Wal- 
 The Dalles Mission — Indian 
 
 S^ 
 
XVI 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Paoi. 
 
 Prayers — The Missionaries and the Mountain-Men — The Impious Cana- 
 dian — Doing Penance — Down the Columbia — Trouble with Indians — 
 Arrival at the Wallamet — Hunjjer, and Dependeni'e on Fort Vaneouvcr — 
 Meeting Old Comrades — Setlliug on the Tualatin I'lains — A disagreeable 
 Winter — Taking Claims — Who furnished the Seed Wheat, - - 279 
 
 ^•i,\ 
 
 a 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Wealth of the Methodist Mission — Waste of Property — Influence on the 
 Indians — What the Mission Board Did lor Oregon — A Natural Se- 
 quence — Policy of the Mission regarding Other Settlers — Memorial to 
 Congress — Trying Position of Dr. McLaughlin — How He Directed the 
 Power of the Hudson's Bay Company — Fear of Catholicism — The Mis- 
 sion Party and the American Party — llie Story of Ewing Young— A 
 Historical Character — Some Opinions of the Writer — Position of the 
 Mountain-Men in Oregon, ------ 
 
 288 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Scarcity of Employment — Wilkes' Exploring Expedition — Meek Employed 
 as Pilot — Interchange of Courtesies at Vancouver — Unpleasant Re- 
 minder — Exploring the Cowelitz — Wilkes' Chronometer — Land Expe- 
 dition to California — Meek Discharged — Gleaning Wheat — Fifty Miles 
 for an Axe — Visit to the New Mission — Praying for a Cow — The Great 
 Event of the Year— The "Star of Oregon "—Cargo of the "Thomas 
 Perkins" — Salvation of the Colony, .... - 296 
 
 - ■ CHAPTER XXV. * ' 
 
 The Brooding of Events — The Balance of Power — First Cargo for the 
 American Market — Fourth of July — An Indian Agent for Oregon — 
 Reception of Inmugrants — Indian Agent iij Governor — Dr. AVhitman 
 Visits Washington — The "Ashburton Treaty" — Emigration from Mis- 
 souri — Discontent of the Indians — Missionaries Threatened — Mrs. Whit- 
 man leaves Waiilatpu — Dr White Visits the Indians — A Code of Laws 
 for the Nez Perces — Cayuses avoid an Interview, . - - 
 
 304 
 
 I'rl 
 
 VI 
 
 11 
 
 _^ , C H A P T E R X X V I . 
 
 The Plot Thickens — Forms of Government Discussed — The Wolf Associa- 
 tion — Suspicions of the Canadians — A Committee Appointed — Tlieir 
 Report Accepted — The Die Cast — Address of the Canadians — Officers 
 Elected — Meek Elected Sheriff — The Provisional Government — Notable 
 Laws — Indian Disturbancei! in the Upper Country — The Agent Leaves 
 for a Visit — Mr. Hines and Dr. McLaughlin — Dorio the wicked Half- 
 Breed — Account of the Indian Troubles — Particulars of the Indian Con- 
 ference — The Missionaries AVarned, ----- 316 
 
 n 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XYll 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 ■ ; 'I 
 
 Paoi 
 
 Arrival of the Immigration at the Dalles — Wagons Abandoned — Condition 
 of tlie People — Aid from the Hudson's Bay Company — Perils of the 
 Columbia — Wreck of a Hoat— Wonderful Eseajje — Trials of the New 
 Colonists — The Generous Savage — The Harefoot Lawyer — Meek's 
 Pumpkin — Privation of the Settlers — Going Shopping — No Mails — Ed- 
 ucation and Literary Soeic^ties — Attemj)! to Manufacture Ardent Spirits — 
 Dilemma of the People— An Appeal to Dr. White— The Sheriff Destroys ' 
 tlic Distillery — Anc<!dote of Dr. White and Madam Cooper — Meek 
 Levies on Her Whisky — Meek and "The better Part of the Communi- 
 ty "—First Official Aet of the SherilT, 833 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 Excitement about Indians — Dr. White's Flogging Law — Indian Revenge — 
 Raid of the Klamaths — Massacre of Indians — Affray at the Falls — 
 Death of Cockstock — Death of LeHreton and Rogers — Meek's Advice — 
 Ilis Policy with the Indians — Meek and the Agent — The Borrowed 
 Horse — Success of the New Government — Ambitious Designs — Negroes 
 and Liquors Interdicted — Taxation Opposed — Defeat of the Independent 
 Party, - - - - 347 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 The Oregon City Land-Claim — Enmity of the Mission to Dr. McLaugh- 
 lin — His Possessory Rights — Attempts at a Settlement — Mr, Waller's 
 Trifling — Double Dealings Extraordinary — Various Propositions — Ric- 
 ord's Caveat — Tlie Doctor's Devotions and Inital "' / — A Settlement 
 Effected — The Several Parties — Uneasiness at Fort Vancouver — Des- 
 perate Characters — Dr. McLaughlin Asks for Protection — The Situation, 355 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. ^. 
 
 ITie American Organization — Oath of Membership Modified — Dr. Mc- 
 Laughlin Unites with the Americans — Unwelcome Visitors at the Fort — ' 
 The British Government Promise Protection — Disagreeable Results of 
 Espionage — The English Officers — Wonderful Transformation — Tem- 
 perance — Courts — Anecdote of Judge Nesmith — Memorial to Congress — 
 Ludicrous Legislative Proceedings — Audacity Triumphant — Growth of 
 Improvements — New Towns — Early Days of Portland — An Indian Ca^ i 
 rousal — Meek "Settles the Indians" — Reader's Query, and Answer — 
 The Immigration of 1845 — The Road-Hunters — Hunger, and Peril— rA 
 Last Request — Succor at the Last Moment — A Reason for Patriotism, 364 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 Difficulty of Collecting Taxes — A Ponderous Currency — Dr. McLaughlin's 
 Ox — An Exciting Year — Abrogation of the Treaty — The Boundary 
 
L 
 il 
 
 xvin 
 
 C0NTFNT3. 
 
 Paqi. 
 
 Qiii*tion — Fifty-Four-Forty or Fight — Caution of the (lovornmcnt — 
 War VessoU in the Coliiuibia — Lo«» of tin; Sliarit — Mock Roccivi's a 
 Saluti'— Sclii'iU'lc Arrt'sti'd — 'I'lie Color-Stand of tlitr Sliarlc — Tin; Agony 
 OviT — 'i'l'rnis of I lie New Treaty not Aj^ri'i'alile to tho Orogoniuns — 
 Disappointment of the I Iiidsou's Bay Company, - - . -377 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 Colonial Gossip — The Orep;on Sptsctntor — Overland Mail Speeial — Theat- 
 [ rieals on Board the Modeste — Literature of the Spectator — "The Ad- 
 ventures of a Columbia River Salmon" — History of the Immij^ration of 
 1811! — ()])ei>inij of the Southern Route — Traj>ie Fate of the California 
 Immigrants— Hardships of the Oregon Immij^rants — The Cause— Tardy 
 Relief — Disappointment of the Colony — The Road-hunters Blamed — 
 Feuds in Consetpience — Lef^islature for 184G — Meek and Newell Mem- 
 bers — The Liquor Bill — Divorce Acts, - . . . - 
 
 S82 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. i .. . ,, .,.,,, 
 
 The Bcginninff of Orefijon Commerce — The Oregon Colony second only to 
 that of the Mayflower — 'Ihe Foundations of a New State — Celebrating 
 the Fourth of July — Visit to the Ship Brutus — An Indignity Resented 
 
 , with a Twelve-Pounder — Dr. McLaughlin Interferes — Re-elecaon of 
 Meek — Large Immigration — Letter from Thomas H. Benton — Affray 
 between Immigrants and Indians at tho Dalles — The Governor's Dele- 
 gate to Congress — Manner of his E(juipmcnt — Stranded at San Juan — 
 Meeting of the Legislature — FalUng of the Thunderbolt, - -391 
 
 • • CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 The Up-Country Indians — Causes of Their Discpiiet — Their Opinion of the 
 Americans — Their FeclingH toward Dr. Whitman — Acts of Violence — 
 Influence of th«' Catholic Missionaries — What Provoked the Massacre — 
 "Jo Lewis the Half-Breed — The Fatal Test — Sickness Among the Emi- 
 grants — Dr. Whitman's Family — Persons at the Mission and Mill — 
 Niglit Visit to the Umatilla — The Warning of Stickas and His Family — 
 The Death Song — Meeting with Brouillet — News of the Massacre — Mr. 
 Spalding's Night Journeys, » . - . « -400 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 The Tragedy at "Waiilatpu — Dr. Whitman's Arrival at Home — The Com- 
 ■ mcricement of the Massacre — Horrors of the Attack — Shooting of Mrs. 
 • Wliitman — Treachery of a Chief — Sufferings of the Children — The Two 
 
 Compassionate Indi.ans — Escape of Mr. Osborne and Family — Escape 
 ' and Fate of Mr. Hall — Cruel Treatment of Fugitives — Sufferings of Mr. 
 
 Osborne's Family — Fears of Mcbean— 'Kindness of Stickas, - - 410 
 
 n: 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XIX 
 
 C 11 A P T K R XXXVI. 
 
 PAfllt 
 
 Horrors of the Waiilntpii Massacre — Exemption ot the Catholics — Charges 
 of the Protestants — Natural Suspicions — Furtlicr Particulars of the Mus- 
 gn(Te — Cnu'ity to the Children — Fate of the Youn}? Women — Miss 
 Buli-e airl the Priests — Lapwai Mission — Arrival of Mr. Canilielil — An 
 Indian Trait — Heroism of Mrs. Spalding — Appeal to the Chiefs — Arrival 
 of the News — Lupwai Plundered — Treachery of Joseph — Arrival of Mr. 
 Spalding; — Detained as Hostages — Uansomed hy the H. U. Company — 
 Tlie "Hl(M)d of the Martyrs" — Country Abandoned to the Indians — 
 Subsequent liuturn of Mr. Spalding to the Ncz Perces, - - - 419 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 The Call to Arms — Meiitinj^s and Speeches — Ways and Means of De- 
 fence — The first llet^iment of Oregon Riflemen — Messenger to the (lov- 
 crnor of California — ileek Chosen Messenger to the President of the 
 United States — He Phk-cimIs to the Dalles — 'Hie Army Marches to 
 Waiilatpu — A Skirmish with the Des Chutes- -Burial of the Victims — 
 Meek Escorted to the Ulue Mountains, ----- 428 
 
 ■ ■<l'i*-> 
 
 yH 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 Meek's Party — Precautions against Indians — Meeting with Bannacks — 
 White Lies — Fort Hall — Deep Snow.s — Horses Abandoned — 'llio Moun- 
 tain Spirit Returning — Meeting with Peg-Leg Smith — A Mountain 
 Revel — Meeting with An Old Leader — Reception at Fort Laramie — 
 Passing the Siou.x Village — Courtesy of a French Trader — Reflections 
 on Nearing the Settlements — Resolve to Remain JoeMdek — Reception 
 at St. Joseph — "Tlie Quickest Trip Yet" — Arrival at St. Louis — Meek X' 
 as Steamboat Runner — Interview with the Stage Agent at Wheeling — 
 Astonishing the Natives — The Puzzled Conductor — Arrival at Wash- 
 ington, --------- 434 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 Meek Dines at Coleman's — A Sensation — An Amusing Scene — Recog- 
 nized by Senator Underwood — Visit to the President — Cordial Recep- 
 tion by the Family of Polk — Some Doubts of Himself — Rapid Recovery 
 of Self-Possession — Action of the Friends of Oregon — The Two Oregon 
 Representatives — Tlie Oregon Bill in the Senate — Benton's Speech — y 
 Meek's Successful Debut in Society — Curiosity of Ladies — Kit Carson 
 and the " Contingent Fund " — Meek's Remarkable Popularity — Invited 
 to Baltimore by the City Council — Er ,rts the President — Visit to 
 Lowell — Tlic Factory Girls — Some Natural Regrets — Kindness of Mrs. 
 Polk and Mrs. Walker — Commodore Wilkes — Oregon Lies — Getting 
 Franked — Champagne Supj ■ .'s, - . . . . 447 
 
 i\ 
 
I^pfflt 
 
 m- 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Paob, 
 
 Mr. Tliornton <as Representative of Oregon — The Territorial Bill — How 
 Obnoxious to the South — The Friends and Enemies of" the Bill — The 
 Land Bill — The Last Chance — Scene between Butler and Benton — 
 Speech of Senator Foote — A Tedious Night — The Territorial Bill Pay- 
 ed—Failure of the Land Bill— What Became of It, - - - 463 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 Meek Appointed U. S. Marshal for Oregon — "Home Sweet Home" — Pay 
 of the Delegates — The Lion's Share — Meek's Interview with Gov. 
 Lane — Bujing out a Peddler — The Escort o*' Riflemen — 'Ilie Start from 
 St. Louis, and the Route — Meeting Price's Army — An Adventure and 
 a Pleasant Surprise — Leaving the Wagons — Desertion of Soldiers — 
 Drought^ — The Trick of the Yumas— Demoralization of the Train — 
 Rumors of Gold — Gen. Lane's Coffee — The Writer's Reflection — The 
 Party on Foot — Extreme Sufferings — Arrival at William's Ranch — 
 Speculation in Silks and Jack-Knives — Miners at Los Angelos — Ore- 
 gonians at San Francisco — Nat Lane and Meek Take the Gold Fever — 
 Meek's Investment — The Governor and Marshal Quarrel — Pranks 
 with a Jew — A Salute — Arrival in Oregon City, - - - 459 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 If This Were a Novel — The Dropped Tlireads of Our Story — Gov. 
 Lane's Proclamation — One Day under Polk — Condition of Oregon — 
 The Honolulu and Her Captain — The Gold Excitement — Deserted Har- 
 vest Fields — Sudden Prosperity of Oregon — Gradual Relapse, and 
 the Cause — Tlie Three Parties — Resignation of Dr. McLaughlin — His 
 Wish to Become an American Citizen — Complications of His Case — Mr. 
 Thurston, Delegate to Congress — The Story of the Donation Act — 
 Death of the Doctor, .---... 
 
 482 
 
 I ! 
 It > 
 U I 
 
 i 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 
 Lane's Course with the Cayuge Indians — Magnanimity of the Spvages — 
 Rebuke to Their Captors — Their Statements to Meek — Tlie Puzzle of 
 Indian Ethics — Incidents of the Trial and Execution — State of the 
 Upper Country for A Term of Years — How Meek Was Received in Ore- 
 gon — His Incurable Waggishness — Scene in a Court-Room — Contempt 
 of Court — Judge Nelson and the Carpenters — Two Hundred Lies — An 
 Excursion by the Oregon Court — Indians Tried for Mui"der — Proceed- 
 ings of a Jury — Sentence and Execution of the Indians — The Chiefs 
 Wife — Cost of Proceedings— Lane's Career in Oregon — Gov. Davis, 
 
 493 
 
CONTENTS. '- 
 
 XXI 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 
 Paqi. 
 
 Meek as TJ. S. Marshal— The Captain of the Melvin— The British Smug- 
 gler—Returning a Compliment— " Barly f^nougli for the Officers of the 
 Court"— Misused Confidence— Indian Disturbances— The Indian War ' 
 of 1855-6— Gen Wool and Gov. Curry— Olficers of the War— Ilowthe 
 Volunteers Fared— !Meek as a A''olunteer— Feasting and Fun—" Mark- 
 ing Time"— End of Mock's Public Career— His Stern Loyalty in Con- 
 trast with Lane's Disloyalty — His Present Life — Treatment of a "Preach- 
 er "—Hope of the Future, - - - - - -503 
 
 CHAPTER XL V. 
 
 The Northern Pacific Railroad— WESTERN OREGON— The Walla- 
 met River and Valley — The Falls of the Wallaniet — The Umpqua Val- 
 ley — The Rogue River Valley — The Coast Country — The Dairy Region 
 of the Pacific Coast — Varieties of Soil — Climate and Temperature — Pro- 
 ductions and Natural Resources — Fruit Growing — Native Grasses — 
 Shrubbery — Price of Lands — Sheep Raising and Woolen Goods — Trees 
 and Lumbering— Turpentine, Tar, and Rosin — Fish and Fisheries — 
 Game — Salt — Coal — Iron — Lead — Copper — Gold and Silver — Grain — 
 Flax and Hemp— Tobacco— Hops— Honey— EASTERN OREGON— 
 Impressions of Early Emigrants — Aspectof the Coimtry — Waste Lands — 
 Sage Deserts — Valleys and Plains — The Blue Mountains — Soil and Pro- 
 ductions — The Klamaili D.isin — Sprague's River Valley — Goose Lake 
 V^alley — Surprise Vailcy — Oases in the Desert — The I)es Chutes, John 
 Dny, Umntilla, Gramie Ronde, and Powder Rivers and Valleys — 
 Climaie and Resources of Eastern Oregon — Stock-Ranches — Fruit 
 Orchards — Vineyards — Corn and Sorghum — Flix and Wool — Mineral 
 Wealth — Ai'ca and Population of Oregon, - - - .- 
 
 
 • t 
 
 ui- 
 
 513 
 
 C H A P T E R X L V I . 
 
 WASHINGTON TERRITORY— Area and Population— Tlie Cowelitz 
 River — The Cascade Range — Mount Olympus — The Cowelitz Prairie — 
 The Future of Washington — The Strait of San Juan De Fuca — Ad- 
 miralty Inlet — Hood's Canal — Puget Sound — Its Advantages as a 
 Great Naval Depot — Material for Ship Building — Ample Room and 
 kSafe Anchorage — The Lumbering Interests — Large Saw Mills — Im- 
 mense Forests — Magnificent Trees — Coal Mines — Fisheries — The Coast 
 Counties — Shoal Water Bay — Cape Hancock — Markets for Agricultural 
 Products — A Great Maritime City to (Jrow : :p at the Terminus of the 
 Northern Pacific Railroad — Southern and Eastern Washington — Tlie 
 Cowelitz, Lewis, and Lake River Valleys — Excellent Fruit, Grain, and 
 Dairy Regions— The Walla- AValla Valley 
 
 554 
 
mrrrr 
 
 s 
 
 i^ 
 
 xxu 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER X L y 1 1 . 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER— Its Scenery, Extent, and Resources— Point 
 Adams — Fort Stevens — The Bar — Astoria — Flapping of the Lower Co- 
 linnbia — Monticello — St. Helen — Junction witli tlie WuHaniet — Sauvies 
 Island — Vancouver — The Cascade Range — The Heart of the Moun- 
 tains — Railroad Portage — Jlagnificcnt Scenery — The Cascades — Castio 
 Rock — Indian Tradition — Stupendous Bluffs — Precijiitous Clitfs — 
 Grandeur of the Mountains — A Terrible Passage — Wind Mountain — 
 Hood River — Mt. Hood — Mt. Adams — The Dalles of the Columbia — 
 Wildness of tlio Scenery — Dalles City — Second Railroad Portage — 
 Celilo — Immense Warohouses — The Rapids— The Des Clmtes River — 
 Columbus — Umatilla— Wallula— The AValla-Walla River — Walla- 
 Walla City — White Bluffs— Colville — Northern. Branches of the Colum- 
 bia — A Region of Mineral and Agricultural Wealth — Lewiston, Idaho — 
 The Oregon Steam Navigation Company — Scenery of Snake River — 
 The American Falls — Tributaries of Snake River — I'ich ^Mineral Dis- 
 tricts — Fertile Valleys, and Excellent Timber — Changing Aspect of the 
 Country — Facilities for Emigrants, . - . - . 
 
 5G4 
 
 i 
 
 CHAPTER XL VIII. 
 MONTANA TERRITORY— F: ,t Discovery of Gold— Extract from the 
 Report of Gov. Stevens — The Viilleys of the Cour d'Alene and Spokane — 
 The Cour d'Alene Prairie— The Bitter Root Valley— Hell Gate Pass- 
 Deer Lodge Prairie— The Little Blackfoot— Flint Creek— The Hell 
 Gate River — Flathead Lake — Clarke's Fork — Hot Sj)ring Creek — 
 Pond d' Oreille Lake — Estimates of the Areas of Arable Land — A 
 Beautiful Coimtry — Agricultural Advantages — The Climate — The Fa- 
 vorite AVintering Grounds of the Fur Hunters — Mineral and Lumbering 
 Resources, - - - - - - - -582 
 
 CHAPTER X L I X . 
 
 General Remarks on the North-west — Varietie?. of Climate and Temperature 
 — The Mild Climate of the Rocky IMountains in Montana — Captain Mul- 
 lan's Theory Respecting li, — The Isochimcnal Lino Across the Conti- 
 nent — Reclamation of Dry Lands by Iriigation — Productiveness of the 
 Soil— Gigantic Trees and Ferns — Unlailing Harvests — The Foot-IIills 
 of the Mountains — ^feadows and Uplands — Elements of the Grand and 
 Wonderful — The Cascade Mountains — -Their iSolitary Wonders — Awful 
 Chasms — Description of a Mountain Lake — Unequalled Scenery — Com- 
 mercial Condition and Advantages — Need of Capital and Railroads — 
 Probable Railroad Routes — The Oregon Central Railroad — Proposed 
 Branch from the Union Pacific Railroad — The Northern Pacific Ilail- 
 
 ■ roud, --..--... 
 
 689 
 
 
PREFATORY CHAPTER. 
 
 
 l^ 
 
 m 
 
 mi 
 
 Ax Account of the Hudson's Bay Company's Interco'juse with Tnr 
 Indians ok the Nokth-West Coast; with a Sketch of the Differ- 
 ent Amk.iican Fuk Companies, \nd theik Dealings with the 
 Tkibes of the Rocky Mountains. . - .. , ■ 
 
 5G4 
 
 582 
 
 589 
 
 In the year 1818, Mr. Prevost, acting for the United States, received Astoria 
 back from the British, who had taken possession, as narrated by Mr. Irving, 
 four years previous. The restoration took phice in conformity with the treaty 
 of Glient, by which those places captured during the war were restored to their 
 original possessors. Mr. Astor stood ready at that time to renew his enterprise 
 on the Columl)ia River, had Congress been disposed to grant him the necessary 
 l)rotection which the undertaking required. Faihng to secure this, when the 
 United States sloop of war Ontario sailed away from Astoria, after having 
 taken formal possession of that place for our Government, the country was left to 
 the occupancy, (scarcely a joint-occupancy, since tliere were then no Americans 
 here,) of the Britisli traders. Ailer the war, and while negotiations were 
 going on between Great Britain and the United States, the fort at Astoria had 
 remained in possession of the North- West Company, as their principal establish- 
 ment west of the mountains. It had been considerably enlarged since it had 
 come into their possession, and was furnished with artillery enough to have 
 frightened into friendship a much more warlike people than the subjects of old 
 king Comcomly ; who, it will be remembered, was not at first very well disposed 
 towards the " King George men," having learned to look upon the " Boston 
 men " as his friends in his earliest intercourse with the whites. At this time 
 Astoria, or Fort George, as the British traders called it, contained sixty-tive 
 inmates, twenty-three of whom were whites, and the remainder Candian half- 
 breeds and Sitndwich Islanders. Besides this number of men, there were a few 
 women, the native wives of tlie men, and their half-breed offspring. The situ- 
 ation of Astoria, however, was not favorable, being new the sea coast, and not 
 surrounded with good farming lands such as were required for the furnishing 
 of provisions to the fort. Tlierefore, when in 1821 it was destroyed by fire, it 
 was only in part rebuilt, but a lietter and more convenient location for the head- 
 (juarters of the North-West Company was sought for in the int'in-ior. 
 
 About this time a quarrel of long stan<ling between the; Hudson's Bay and 
 NorUi-West Companies euliniuated in a battle between their men in the Red 
 
ppipr 
 
 24 
 
 FOIIT VANCOUVER. 
 
 !-.Wi| 
 
 River country, resulting in a considerable loss of life and property. Tliis affair 
 drew the attention of the Government at home ; the rights of the rival (;om- 
 panies were examined into, the mediation of the Ministry secured, and a com- 
 promise effected, by which the North-West Company, which had succeeded in 
 disi)ossessing the Pacific Fur Company under Mr. Astor, was merged into the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, whose name and fame are so familiar to all the early 
 settlers of Oregon. 
 
 At the same time. Parliament passed an act by which the hands of the con- 
 solidated company were much strengenthed, and the peace and security of all 
 persons greatly insured; but which became subsequently, in the joint occupancy 
 of the country, a cause of offence to the American citizens, as w? shall see 
 hereafter. This act allowed the commissioning of Justices of the Peace ia all 
 the territories not belonging to the United States, nor already subject to grants. 
 These justices were to execute and enforce the laws and decisions of the com-ts 
 of Upjicr Canada ; to take evidence, and commit and send to Canada for trial 
 the guilty ; and even in some cases, to hold courts themselves for the trial of 
 criminal offences and misdemeanors not punishable with death, or of civil causes 
 in which the amount at issue sl'oulc not exceed two hundred pounds. 
 
 Tlius in 1824, the North- West Company, whose perfidy had occasioned such 
 loss and mortification to the enterprising New York merchant, became itself a 
 thing of the past, and a new rule began in the region west of the llocky Moun- 
 tains. Tlie old fort at Astoria having been only so far rebuilt as to answer the 
 needs of the hour, after due consideration, a site for head-ijuarters was selected 
 about one hundred miles from the sea, near the mouth of the Wallamet Kiver, 
 though opposite to it. Three considerations went to make up the eligibility of 
 the point selected. First, it was desirable, even necessary, to settle upon good 
 agricultural lands, where the Company's provisions could be raised by the Com- 
 pany's servants. Second, it was important that the spot chosen should be upon 
 waters navigable for the Company's vessels, or upon tide-water. Lastly, and 
 not leastly, the Company had an eye to the boundary question between Great 
 Britain and the United States ; and believing that the end of the controversy 
 ivould probably be to make the Columbia River the northern limit of the United 
 States territory, a spot on the northern bank of that river was considered a 
 jood point for their fort, and possible future city. 
 
 llie site chosen by the North-West Company in 1821, for their new fort, 
 combined all these advantages, and the further one of having been already 
 commenced and named. Fort Vancouver became at once on the accession of 
 the Hudson's B.iy Conqiany, the metropolis of the northwest coast, the center 
 of the fur trade, and the seat of government for that immense territory, over 
 ■which roamed the hunters and trappers in the employ of that powerful corpo- 
 ration. Tliis post was situated on the edge of a beautiful sloping plain on the 
 northern bank of the Columbia, about six miles above the upper mouth of the 
 Wallamet. At this point the Columbia spreads to a great width, and is divided 
 on the south side into bayous by long snndy islands, covered with oak, ash, and 
 cotton-wood trees, making the noble river more attractive still by adding the 
 charm of curiosity concerning its actual breadth to its natural and ordinary 
 
DKFENCES AND IMPR0VEMP:NTS. 
 
 26 
 
 Tliis iiffair 
 rival eom- 
 and a cotn- 
 icceeded in 
 ;ed into the 
 .11 the early 
 
 of the con- 
 urity of all 
 t occupancy 
 shall see 
 L^eace in all 
 •t to grants, 
 the courts 
 ida for trial 
 the trial of 
 civil causes 
 
 3. 
 
 sioned such 
 une itself a 
 Dcky Moun- 
 
 answer the 
 fas selected 
 miet River, 
 
 igibility of 
 i upon good 
 )y the Com- 
 tild be upon 
 Lastly, and 
 iveen Great 
 controversy 
 ' the United 
 onsidered a 
 
 r new fort, 
 en already 
 iccession of 
 , the center 
 'ritory, over 
 erful corpo- 
 )lain on the 
 outh of the 
 il is divided 
 ik, ash, and 
 adding the 
 id ordinary 
 
 magnificence. Back of the fort the land rose gently, covered with forests of fir; 
 and away to the east swelled the tbot-hills of the Cascade range, then the moun- 
 tains themselves, draped in filmy azure, and over-topped live thousand leet by 
 the snowy cone of Mt. Hood. 
 
 In this lonely situation grew up, with the dispatch which characterized the 
 acts oi" the Company, a fort in most respects similar to the original one at 
 Astoria. It was not, however, thought necessary to make so great a disjilay of 
 artillery as had served to keep in order the subjects of Comcouily. A stockade 
 enclosed a space about eight hundred feet long by five hundred broad, having 
 a bastion at one corner, where were mounted three guns, while two eighteen 
 pounders and two swivels were planted in front of the residence of the (Jov- 
 ernor and chief factors. These commanded the main entrance to the fort, 
 besides which there were two other gates in front, and another in the rear. 
 Military precision was observed in the precautions taken against surprises, as 
 well as in all the rules of the place. The gates were opened and closed at 
 certain hours, and were always guarded. No large number of Indians were 
 permitted within the enclosure at the same time, and every employee at the fort 
 knew and performed his duty with punctuality. 
 
 The buildings within the stockade were the Governor's and chief factors' 
 residences, stores, offices, work-shops, magazines, warehouses, &c. 
 
 Year by year, up to 1835 or '40, improvements continued t go on in and 
 about the fort, the chief of which was the cultivation of the largo farm and 
 garden outside the enclosure, and the erection of a hospital building, large barns, 
 servants' houses, and a boat-house, all outside of the Ibrt ; so that at the period 
 when the ('olumbia River was a romance and a mystery to the people of the 
 United States, quite a flourishing and beautiful vi"age adorned its northern 
 shore, and that too erected and sustained by the enemies of American enter- 
 prise on soil commonly believed to belong to the United States : fair foes the 
 author firmly believes them to have been in those days, yet foes nevertheless. 
 
 The system on which the Hudson's Bay Company conducted its business was 
 the result of long experience, and was admirable for its method and its justice also. 
 When a ycnng man entered its service as a clerk, his wages were small for sev- 
 eral years, increasing only as his ability and good conduct entitled him to advance- 
 ment. When his salary had reached one hundred pounds sterling he became 
 eligible to a chlef-tradership as a partner in the concern, from which position 
 he was promoted to the rank of a chief factor. No important business was 
 ever intrusted to an inexperienced person, a policy which almost certainly pre- 
 vented any serious errors. A regular tariff was established on the Company's 
 goods, comprising all the articles used in their trade with the Indians ; nor was 
 the quality of their goods ever allowed to deteriorate. A price was also fixed 
 upon furs according to their market value, and an Indian knowing this, knew 
 exactly what he could purchase. No bai-tcring was allowed. Wlun skins 
 were offered for sale at the fort they wei'e handed to the clerk through a win- 
 dow like a post-office delivery-window, and their value in the article desired, 
 returned through the same aperture. All these regulations were of the high- 
 est importance to the good order, safety, and profit of the Company. The con- 
 
 mi 
 
 mm 
 
 i 
 
26 
 
 INTOXICATING LIQUORS. 
 
 ■•Jl 
 
 |::^ 
 
 fidence of the Indians was pure to be pained by the constancy and good faith 
 ahvuys observed toward them, and the Company obtained thereby numerous 
 and poweWul allies in nearly all the tribes. 
 
 As soon as it was possible to make the ehann;e, the Indians were denied the 
 use of intoxicating drinks, the appetite for which had early been introduced 
 among them by coasting vessels, and even continued by the Pacific Fur Com- 
 pany at Astoria. It would have been dangerous to have suddenly deprived 
 them of the coveted stimulus ; therefore the practice must be discontinued by 
 many wise arts and devices. A public notice was given that the sale of it 
 would be stopped, and the reasons for this prohibition explained to the Indians. 
 Still, not to come into direct conflict with their appetites, a little was sold to 
 the chiel's, now and then, by the clerks, who affected to be running the greatest 
 risks in violating the order of the company. The strictest secrecy was enjoined 
 on the lucky chief who, by the friendship of some ander-clcrk, was enabled to 
 smuggle off a bottle under his blanket. But the canning clerk had generally 
 managed to get his " good friend " into a state so cleverly between drunk and 
 sober, before he entrusted him with the precious bottle, that he was sure to 
 bi'tray himself Leaving the shop with a mien ven more erect than usual, 
 with a gait affected in its majesty, and his blaincet tightened around him to 
 conceal his secret treasure, the chuckling chief would start to cross the grounds 
 within the fort. If he was a new customer, he was once or twice permitted to 
 play his little game with the obliging clerk whose particular friend he was, and 
 to escape detection. 
 
 But by-and-by, when the officers had seen the ofTence repeated more than 
 once from their purposely contrived posts of observation, one of them would 
 skillfully chance to intercept the guilty chief at whose comical endeavors to 
 appear sober he was inwardly laughing, and charge him with being intoxicated. 
 Wresting away the tightened blanket, the bottle appeared as evidence that 
 could not be controverted, of the u;:plicity of the Indian and the unfaithfulness 
 of the clerk, whose name was instantly demanded, that he might be properly 
 punished. AVhen the chief again visited the fort, his particular friend met him 
 with a sorrowful countenance, reproaching him for having been the cause of 
 his disgrace and loss. This reproach was the surest means of preventing an- 
 other demand for rum, the Indian being too magnanimous, probably, to wish to 
 get his friend into trouble ; while the clerk affected to fear the consequences 
 too much to be induced to take the risk another time. Thus by kind and care- 
 ful means the traffic in liqi-ors was at length broken up, which otherwise would 
 have ruined both Indian and trader. 
 
 To the company's servants licpior was sold or allowed at certain times : to 
 those on the sea-board, one half-pint two or three times a year, to be used as 
 medicine, — not that it was always needed or used for this purpose, but too strict 
 inquiry into its use was wisely avoided,— and for this the company demanded 
 pay. To their servants in the interior no Itquor was sold, but they were fur- 
 nished as a gratuity with one pint on leaving rendezvous, and another on arriv- 
 ing at winter quarters. By this management, it became impossible fo" them to 
 
AKRIVAL OF "THE BmCADK. 
 
 27 
 
 1 I 
 
 Tood faith 
 numerous 
 
 cnicd the 
 ntroduccd 
 Fur Com- 
 
 dcprivcd 
 tinued by 
 
 sale of it 
 I! Indians, 
 as sold to 
 le greatest 
 IS enjoined 
 enabled to 
 
 generally 
 drunk and 
 as sure to 
 ban usual, 
 nd him to 
 le grounds 
 rmitted to 
 e was, and 
 
 more than 
 lem would 
 ideavors to 
 ntoxicated. 
 dence that 
 faithfulness 
 e properly 
 id met him 
 le cause of 
 'enting an- 
 , to wish to 
 nsequences 
 :1 and eare- 
 wise would 
 
 1 times : to 
 be used as 
 ut too strict 
 ' demanded 
 y were fur- 
 er on arriv- 
 for them to 
 
 dispose of drink to the Indians ; their small allowance being i,1ways immedi- 
 ately consumed in a meeting or parting carouse. 
 
 The aiTival of men from the interior sit Fort Vancouver usually took j)lace 
 i» the month of June, when the Columbia was high, and a stirring scene; it 
 was. The chief traders generally c(jntrived their march through the upper 
 country, their camps, and their rendezvous, so as to meet the Express which 
 annually came to Vancouver from Canada and the Red River settlements. 
 They then descended the Columbia together, and arrived in Ibrce at the Fort, 
 niis annual fleet went by the name of Brigade — a name which suggested a 
 military spirit in the crews that their appearance failed to vindicate. Yet, 
 though there was nothing warlike in the scene, there was much that was excit- 
 ing, picturesque, and even brilliant ; for these couriers de I/oh, or wood-rangers, 
 and the voyageurs, or boatmen, were the most foppish of mortals when they 
 came to rendezvous, llien, too, there was an exaltation of sjiirits on their safe 
 arrival at head-fjuarters, after their year's toil and danger in wildernesses, 
 among Indians and wild beasts, exposed to famine and accident, that almost 
 deprived them of what is called " common sense," and compelled them to the 
 most fantastic excesses. 
 
 Their well-understood peculiarities did not make them the less welcome at 
 Vancouver. When the cry was given — " the Rrigade ! the Brigade ! " — there 
 was a general rush to the river's bank to witness the spectacle. In advance 
 came the chief-trader's barge, with the company's flag at the bow, and the 
 cross of St. George at the stern : the fleet as many abreast as the turnings of 
 the river allowed. With strong and skillful strokes the boatmen governed their 
 richly laden boats, keeping them in line, and at the same time singing in chorus 
 a loud and not unmusical hunting or boating song. Tlie gay ribbons and i'eath- 
 ers with which the singers were bedecked took nothing from the picturesque- 
 ness of their appearance. The broad, full river, sparkling in the sunlight, 
 gemmed with emerald islands, and bordered with a rich growth of flowering 
 shrubbery ; the smiling plain surrounding the Fort ; the distant mountains, 
 where glittered the sentinel Mt. Hood, all came gracefully into the picture, and 
 seemed to furnish a fitting back-ground and middle distance for the bright bit 
 of coloring given by the moving life in the scene. As with a skillful sweep the 
 brigade touched the bank, and the traders and men sprang on shore, the first 
 cheer which had welcomed their appearance was heartily repeated, while a gay 
 clamor of questions and answers followed. 
 
 After the business immediately incident to their arrival had been dispatched, 
 then took place the regale of pork, flour, and spirits, which was sure to end in 
 a carouse, during which blackened eyes and broken noses were not at all un- 
 common ; but though blood was made to flow, life was never put seriously in 
 peril, and the belligerent parties were the best cif friends when the fracas was 
 ended. 
 
 The business of exchange being completed in three or four weeks — the rich 
 stores of peltries consigned to their places in the warehouse, and the boats re- 
 laden with goods for the next year's trade with the Indians in the upper country, 
 a parting carouse took place, and with another parade of feathers, ribbons, and 
 
 m 
 ■r 
 
 n 
 
OTHER YEARLY ARRIVALS, 
 
 II 
 
 Other finery, the brirtiide departed with songs and cheers as it had come, but 
 witli prohiil)!)' heavier liearta. 
 
 It would be a stern morality indeed which could look upon the excesses of 
 this peculiar class as it would upon the same excesses committed by men in the 
 enjoyment of all the comforts and pleasures of civilized life. For them, during 
 most of the year, was only an out-door life of toil, watchfidness, peril, and 
 isolation. When they arrived a' the rendezvous, for the brief periwl of their 
 stay they were allowed perfect license because nothing else would content 
 them. Although at head-cpuirters they were still in the wilderness, thousands 
 of miles from civilization, with no chance of such recreations as men in the 
 continual enjoyment of life's sweetest pleasures would naturally seek. For 
 them there was only one method of seeking and finding temporary oblivion of 
 the accustomed hardship ; and whatever may be the strict rendering of man's 
 duty as an immortal being, we cannot help being somewhat lenient at times to 
 his errors as a mortal. 
 
 After the departure of the boats, there was another arriv.al at the Fort, of 
 trappers from the Snake River county. Previous to 1832, such were the dan- 
 gers of the fur trade in this region, that only the most experienced traders 
 were suffered to conduct a party through it ; and even they were frequently 
 attacked, and sometimes sustained serious losses of men and animals. Subse- 
 quently, however, the Hudson's Bay Company obtained such an influence over 
 even these hostile tribes as to make it safe for a party of no more than two of 
 tlieir men to travel through this much dreaded region. 
 
 There was another important arrival at Fort Vancouver, usually in mid- 
 summer. This was the Company's supply ship from London. In the possible 
 event of a vessel being lost, one cargo was always kept on store at Vancouver ; 
 but for which wise regulation much trouble and disaster might have resulted, 
 especially in the early days of the establishment. Occasionally a vessel foun- 
 dered at sea or was lost on the bar of the Columbia ; but these losses did not 
 interrupt the regular transaction of business. The arrival of a ship from Lon- 
 don was the occasion of great bustle and excitement also. She brought not 
 only goods for the posts throughout the district of the Columbia, but letters, 
 papers, private parcels, and all that seemed of so much value to the little 
 isolated world at the Fort. 
 
 A comi)any conducting its business with such mothod and regularity as has 
 been described, was certain of success. Yet some credit also must attach to 
 certain individuals in its service, whose faithfulness, zeal, and ability in carry- 
 ing out its designs, contributed largely to its welfare. Such a man was at the 
 head of the Hudson's Bay Company's afl^iirs in the large and important dis- 
 trict west of the Rocky Mountains. Tlie Company never had in its service a 
 more eflicient man than Gov. John McLaughlin, more commonly called Dr. 
 McLaughlin. 
 
 ' To the discipline, at once severe and just, which Dr. McLaughlin maintained 
 in his district, was due the safety and prosperity of tlie company he s^«i^ed, 
 and the servants of that company generally ; as well as, at a later period, of 
 the emigration which followed the hunter and trapper into the wilds of Oregon. 
 
PUNISHMENT OP INDIAN OFFENDKH!*. 
 
 29 
 
 Careful as were all the officers of the Hudson's Bay Company, tliey could not 
 always avoid eontlicts with the Indians ; nor was their kindness and justice 
 always sufficiently appreciated to prevent the outbreak of savage instincts. 
 Fort Vancouver had been threatened in an early day ; a vessel of two had 
 been lost in which the Indians were suspected to have been inij)licated ; at 
 lon<5 intervals a trader was murdered in the interior ; or more frecpiently, 
 Indian insolence put to the test both the wisdom and courage of the officers to 
 prevent an outbreak. 
 
 When murders and robberies were committed, it was the custom at Fort 
 Vancouver to send a strong party to demand the offenders from their tribe ; 
 Such was the well known power and influence of the Company, and such the 
 wholesome fear of the '* King George men," that this demand was never re- 
 sisted, and if the murderer could be found he was given up to be hung accord- 
 ing to " King (Jeorge ' laws. They were almost equally impelled to good con- 
 duct by the state of dependence on the company into which they had been 
 brought. Once they had subsisted and clothed themselves from the spoils of 
 the rivers and Ibrcst ; since they had tasted of the tree of knowledge of good 
 and evil, they could no more return to skins for raiment, nor to game alone for 
 food. Blankets and flour, beads, guns, and ammunition had become dear to 
 their hearts : for all these things they must love and obey the Hudson's Bay 
 Com])any. Another fine stroke of policy in the Company was to destroy the 
 chieftain-ships in the various tribes ; thus weakening them by dividing them 
 and preventing dangerous coalitions of the leading spirits : for in savage as 
 •well as civilized life, the many are governed by the few. 
 
 It may not be uninteresting in this place to give a few anecdotes of the man- 
 ner in which conflicts with the Indians were prevented, or offences punished 
 by the Hudson s Bay Company. In the year 1828 the ship William and Ann 
 was cast away just inside the bar of the Columbia, under circumstances which 
 seemed to direct suspicion to the Indians in that vicinity. VVliether or not 
 tlicy had attacked the ship, not a soul was saved from the wreck to tell how 
 she was lost. On hearing that the ship had gone to pieces, and that the In- 
 dians had appropriated a portion of her cargo, Dr. McLaughlin sent a message 
 to the chiefs, demanding restitution of the stolen goods. Nothing was returned 
 by the messenger excejjt one or two worthless articles. Immediately an armed 
 force was sent to the scene of the robbery with a fresh demand for the goods, 
 which the chiefs, in view of their spoils, thought proper to resist by firing upon 
 the reclaiming party. But they were not unprepared ; and a swivel was dis- 
 charged to let the savages know what they might expect in the way of fire- 
 arms. Tlie argument was conclusive, the Indians fleeing into the woods. 
 While making search for the goods, a portion of which were found, a chief 
 was observed skulking near, and cocking his gun ; on which motion one of the 
 men fired, and he fell. This prompt action, the justice of which the Indians 
 well understood, and tlio intimidating power of the swivel, put an end to the in- 
 cipient war. Care was tlien taken to impress upon their minds that thev must 
 not expect to profit by the disasters of vessels, nor be temj)ted to murder white 
 men for the sake of i)lunder. The Wilhatn and Ann was supposed to have got 
 
 
 ''4 
 
 
 m 
 
80 
 
 INDIAN STRATEGY. 
 
 » 
 
 apround, when tho savafjes seeing her Rituation, boarded her and murdered the 
 crew lor the cargo which they knew her t« contain. Yet us there were no jMwi- 
 tive proof's, only such measures were taken as would deter them from a similar 
 attc^mpt in future. Tliat the lesson was not lost, was proven two years later, 
 when the Imhclln, from London, struck on the bar, her erew desertinj^ her. In 
 this instance no attempt was made to meddle with tho vessel's cargo ; and as 
 the crew made their way tc Vancouver, the goods were nearly all saved. 
 
 In a former voyage of the William and Ann to the Columbia River, she had 
 been sent on an exploring expedition to the Gulf of Georgia to discover tho 
 mouth of Frazier's Kiver, having on l)oard a crew of tbrty men. Whenever 
 the ship came to anchor, two sentries were kept constantly on deck to guivrd 
 against any surprise or miscondm^t on the part of the Indians; so adroit, how- 
 ever, were they in the light-fingered art, that every one of the eight cannon 
 with which the ship was armed was robbed of its ammunition, as was discovered 
 on leaving the river ! Such incidents as these served to impress the minds of 
 the Companj's officers and servants with the necessity of vigilance in their deal- 
 ings with the savages. 
 
 Not all their vigilance could at all times avail to prevent mischief. When 
 Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, was on a visit 
 to Vancouver in 1829, he was made aware of this truism. The Governor was 
 on his return to Canada by way of the Red River Settlement, and had reached 
 the Dalles of the Columbia with his pjirty. In making the portage at this 
 place, all the party except Dr. Tod gave their guns into the charge of two men 
 to prevent their being stolen by the Indians, who crowded about, and whose 
 well-known bad character made great care needful. All went well, no attempt 
 to seize either guns or other property being made until at the end of the port- 
 age the boats had been reloaded. As the party were about to re-embark, a 
 simultaneous rush was made by the Indians who had dogged their steps, to get 
 possession of the boats. Dr. Tod raised his gun immediately, aiming at the 
 head chief, who, not liking the prospect of so speedy dissolution, ordered his 
 followers to desist, and the party were suffered to escape. It was soon after 
 discovered that every gun belonging to the party in the boat had been wet, 
 excepting the one carried by Dr. Tod ; and to the fact that tho Doctor did carry 
 his gun, all the others owed their lives. ;- •:.•,•: i-- ■ 
 
 The great desire of the Indiai -^ for guns and ammunition led to many strata- 
 gems which were dangerous to the possessors of the coveted articles. Much 
 more dangerous would it have been to have allowed them a free supply of these 
 things ; nor could an Indian purchase from the Company more than a stated 
 supply, which was to be used, not for the purposes of war, but to keep himself 
 in game. 
 
 Dr. McLaughlin was himself once quite near fivlling into a trap of the Indiana, 
 so cunningly laid as to puzzle even him. This was a report brought to him 
 by a deputation of Columbia River Indians, stating the startling fact that the 
 fort at Nesqually had been attacked, and every inmate slaughtered. To this 
 horrible story, told with everj- appearance of truth, the Doctor listened with 
 incredulity mingled with apprehension. The Indians were closely questioned 
 
 r ' 
 
A IIEUO. 
 
 m'' 
 
 iinil cross-fjiicstinnnd, hut did not conflict in tlioir toptlmony. Tlic mattor ns- 
 hii'iicil a very piiini'iil iisp(;ct. Not to be ili-ci'lvod, tho I)(«'tor liiul the iinwel- 
 coino nu'ssi'ii^^tTH conunittcd to custody while lio could brinj^ other witnesses 
 I'roni their tribe. But ihcy were iircpiireil lor this, iiiid the whole tribe were as 
 IM)sitivc 09 those who brou<j;ht the tide. Confounded by this cloud of witnesses, 
 Dr. INh'J^uuidirni h:id almost determined upon sendin}^ an anned tinre to Nes- 
 qually to inijuire into the matter, and if necessary, punish the Indians, wlien a 
 detachment of men arrived from that jwjst, and the jilot was exposed I ITio 
 design of the Indians had been simply to cause a division of the force at Van- 
 couver, after wliich they believed they miy;ht succeed in capturing and j)lunder- 
 hvx, tlie fort. Had they truly been successful in this undertakin<|, every other 
 tra<lin<r-post in llie country would have been destroyed. But so lon<jf as tho 
 h((ad-(iuarters of the Company remained secure and powerful, the other stations 
 were comparatively safe. 
 
 An incident which has been several times related, occuiTcd at fort Walla- 
 Walla, and show;! how narrow escapes the interior traders sometimes made. 
 The hero of this anecdote was Mr. McKinlay, one of the most estimable of the 
 Hudson's Bay Com[)any's officers, in charge of the fort just named. An Indian 
 was one day lounging about tho l()rt, and seeing some timbers lying in a heap 
 that had been scjnarcd for pack saddles, helped himself to one and ctmimenced 
 cutting it down into a whip handle for his own use. To this j)rocedure Mr. 
 McKinlay's clerk demurred, first telling the Indian its use, and then ordering 
 him to resign the piece of timber. The Indian insolently replied that the tim- 
 ber was his, and he should take it. At this the clerk, with more temper than 
 prudence, struck the oll'ender, knocking him over, soon alter which the savage ■ 
 led the fort with sullen looks boding vengeance. The next day Mr. McKinlay, 
 not being informed of what had taken jjlace, was in a room of the fort with his 
 clerk when a considerable party of Indians began dropj)ing quietly in until 
 there were fifteen or twenty of them inside the building. The first intimation 
 of anything wrong McKinlay rec(;ived was when he observed the clerk pointed 
 out in a particular manner by one of tho party. He instantly comprehended 
 the purj)ose of his visitors, and with that (piickness of thought which is habitual 
 to the student of savage nature, he rushed into the store room and returned 
 with a j)owder keg, flint a!id steel. By this time the unlucky clerk was strug- 
 gling for his life with his vindictive ibes. Putting down the powder in their 
 midst and knocking out the head of the keg with a blow, McKinlay stood over 
 it ready to strike fire with his flint and steel. The savages paused aghast. 
 They knew the nature of the " perilous stuff," and also understood the trader's 
 purpose. " Come," said he with a clear, determinefl voice, " yon are twenty 
 braves against us two : now touch him if you dare, and see who dies first " In 
 a moment tho fort was cleared, and McKinlay was lefl to inquire the cause of 
 what had so nearly been a tragedy. It is hardly a subject of doubt whether or 
 not his clerk got a scolding. Soon afler, such was the powerful influence 
 exerted by these gentlemen, the chief of the tribe flogged the pilfering Indian 
 for the offence, and McKinlay became a great brave, a " big heart " for his 
 courage. ^ntifi-nn) 
 
 1 
 
 M 
 
 a 
 
 
 i! ^1 
 
 •il 
 
82 
 
 THE AMERICAN FUR COMPANIES. 
 
 i 
 
 It was indeed necessary to have conra^re, patience, and prudence in dealing 
 witli tlie IiKliiins. These the Hudson's Hay oHicers (;('neraily jMjssessc'd. I'it- 
 hups tlie most irascililc of theui all in tlic Columbia District, was their chief, 
 Dr. MeLau}j;hlin; but such was his (goodness and justice that even the Bava;;«'8 
 ri'eo^fuizt'd it, and ho was hiias li/t'e, or j^reat chief, in all respects to thetn. 
 Beinif on out; occasion very much annoyed liy the pertinacity of an Indian wlio 
 was continually demanding pay for some stones with which the Doctor was 
 havinir iv vt-ssel ballasted; he seized one of some size, and thrust ing it in the 
 Indian's month, cried out in a furious manner, "pay, pay! it the stones are 
 yours, take them and eat them, you rascal ! Pay, j)ay I the di-vil I the devil I " 
 ujjon which explosion of wrath, the native owner of the soil thought it prudent 
 to withdraw his innncdiate claims. 
 
 There was more, however, in the Doctor's action than mere in(hilgence of 
 wrath. He understood perfectly that the savage values only what he can eat 
 and wear, and that as lie could not put the stones to either of these uses, his 
 demand lor jjay was an impudent one. 
 
 Enougli has been said to give the reader an insight into Indian character, to 
 prepare his mind for events which are to follow, to convey an idea of the influ- 
 ence of the Hudson's Bay Company, and to show on what it was founded. 
 The Anu'rican Fur Comi)anie8 will now lu^ sketched, and their modtiof dealing 
 with the Indians contrasted with that of the British Company. The compari- 
 son will not be favorable ; but shoidd any inifairness be suspected, a reference 
 to Mr. Irving's Bonneville, will show tliat the worthy Captain was forced to 
 witness against his own countrymen in his narrative of his hunting and trading 
 adventures in the llocky Mountains. --. 
 
 
 The dissolution of the Pacific Fur Company, the refusal of the United States 
 Government to protect Mr. Astor in a second attempt to carry on a commerce 
 with the Indians >.''!)!, o? the Rocky Mountains, and the occupation of (hat 
 country by British traders, had the effect to deter individual enterprise fi-om 
 again attempting to t\<tublish commerce on the Pacific coast. Tlio people 
 waited for the Gov<"'ii!M,nt to take some steps toward the encouragement of a 
 trans-oontincutal trade; the Government beliolding the lion (British) in the 
 way, waited for the expiration of tlie convention of 1818, in the Micawber-like 
 hope that something would "turn up" to settle the question of territorial sov- 
 ereignty. The w^r of 1812 had been begun on the part of Great Britain, to 
 secure the great western territories to herself for the profits of the fur trade, 
 almost solely. Failing in this, she had been compelled, by the treaty of Ghent, 
 to restore to the United States all the places and forts captured during that 
 war. Yet the forts and trading posts in the west remained practically in the 
 possession of Great Britain ; for her traders and fur companies still roamed the 
 country, excluding American trade, and inciting (so the frontiers-men believed), 
 the Indians to acts of blood and horror. 
 
 Congress being importuned by the people of the West, finally, in 1815, passed 
 an act expelling British traders from American territory east of the Rocky 
 Mountains. Following the passage of olns act the hunters and trapjiers of the 
 
 ddj j!"*f<" 
 
 '■^-'tyfiiii U} <nii ti (.a£3T->j 
 
 li' i 
 
THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN FUR rOMTANY. 
 
 88 
 
 old North American Compnny, at the head of which Mr. Astor still remained, 
 Ik'i^uii to run<{e the country about the head waters of the Mi(iHiH!<ii)pi and the 
 upper Missouri. Also a ti'w Ann-rican traders liad ventured into the northern 
 provinces of Mexico, {)rcvious to tiuf overthrow of the Spanish (loverninent; 
 and after that event, a thriving traiie j^rew up between St. Louis and Santu Fo. 
 
 At ienj^th, in 1H2.'{, Mr. W. II. Asliley, of St. Louis, a merchant for a long 
 tinu! en<;ay;cd in the fur trade on the Missouri and its tributaries, determined to 
 push a tra<lin<^ pJirty up to or beyond the llocicy Mountains. Following up 
 flu! Platte Kiver, Mr. Ashley proceeded at the head of a largo party with horses 
 and merchandise, as far as the northern branch of the IMatte, called the Sweet- 
 water. This lie explored to its soin-ce, situated in that remarkable depression 
 in the Rocky Mountains, known as the South Pass — the same which Fremont 
 ilhrorereit twenty years later, durinj; which twenty years it was annually trav- 
 eled by tradinj:; parties, and just prior to Fremont's discovery, by missionaries 
 anil enii-rrants destined to Ort?gon. To Mr. Ashley also belon{];s the credit of 
 havin<; first explored the head-waters of the Colorado, called the Green River, 
 afterwards a favorite rendezvous of the American Fur Companies. The coun- 
 try about the South Pass proved to bo an entirely new hunting ground, and 
 very rich in furs, as here many rivers take their rise, whose head-waters fur- 
 nished abundant beaver. Here Mr. Ashley spent the summer, returnin<r to St. 
 Louis in the fall with a valuable collection of skins. 
 
 In 1824, Mr. Ashley repeated the expedition, extending it this time beyond 
 Green River as far as Great Salt Lake, near which to the south he discovei*ed 
 another smaller lake, which he named Lake Ashley, after himself. On the 
 ."horesof this lake he built a fort for trading with the Indians, and leaving in it 
 about one hundred men, returned to St. Louis the second time with a larsre 
 amount of furs. During the time the fort was occupied by Mr. Ashley's men, a 
 period of three years, more than one hundred and eighty thousand dollars worth 
 of furs were collected and sent to St. Louis, In 1827, the fort, and all Mr. 
 Ashley's interest in the business, was sold to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, 
 at the head of which were Jedediah Smith, William Sublette, and David 
 Jackson, Sublette being the leading spirit in the Company. 'ii-p.trRtr 
 
 The custom of these enterprising traders, who had been in the mountains 
 since 1824, was to divide their force, each taking his command to a good hunt- 
 ing ground, and returning at stated times to rendezvous, generally appointed 
 on the head-waters of Green River. Frequently the other fur companies, (for 
 there were other companies formed on the heels of Ashley's enterprise,) learn- 
 ing of the place appointed for the yearly rendezvous, brought their goods to 
 the same resort, when an intense rivalry was exhibited by the several traders 
 as to which company should soonest dispose of its goods, getting, of course, the 
 largest amount of furs from the trappers and Indians. So great was the com- 
 petition in the years between 1826 and 1829, when there were about six hun- 
 dred American trappers in and about the Rocky Mountains, besides those of 
 the Hudson's Bay Company, that it was death for a man of one company to 
 dispose of his furs to a rival association. Even a " free trapper " — that is, one 
 I not indentured, but hunting upon certain terms of agreement concerning th« 
 
 ■| 
 
 I *' I 
 
 m 
 
 ■ I 
 
34 
 
 ATIAC'K (.)N SMITH S PAUTY. 
 
 prici' of his furs and the rost of his outfit, only, dared not sell to any other 
 tonii)any than the one hv. hud aj^reed with. 
 
 Jedediah Smith, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, during their first 
 year in the mountains, took a party of five trappers into Oregon, being the 
 first American, trader or other, to cross into that country since the breaking 
 uj) of Mr. Astor's establishment. He trapped on the head-waters of the Snake 
 lliver until autumn, when he fell in with a party of Hudson's Bay trappers, 
 and going Avitli them to their post in the Flathead coimtry, wintered there. 
 
 Again, in 1826, Smith, Sublette, and Jackson, brought out a large number of 
 men to trap in the Snake Kiver country, and entered into direct competition 
 with the Hudson's Bay Company, whom they opposed with hardly a degree 
 more of ?eal than they competed with riv.al Amei'icrn traders : this one extra 
 degree being inspired by a " spirit of '76 " toward mything British. 
 
 After the liocky Mountain Fur Company had extended its business by the 
 purchase of Mr. Ashley's interest, the partners determined to push their enter- 
 prise to the Pacific coast, regardless of the opposition they were likely to en- 
 counter from the Hudson's Bay traders. Accordingly, in the spring of 1827, 
 the Company was divided up into three part", t^ he led separately, by different 
 routes, into the Indian Territory, nearer the ocean. 
 
 Smith's route was from the Platte River, southwards to Santa Fe, thence to 
 the bay of San Francisco, and thence along the coast to the Columbia River. 
 His party were successful, and had arrived in the autumn of the following year 
 at the Umjjqua River, about two hundred miles south of the Columbia, in 
 safety. Here one of those sudden reverses to which the " mountain-man " is 
 liable at any moment, overtook him. His party at tV^f time consisted of thir- 
 teen men, with their horses, and a collection of furs valued at twenty thousand 
 dollars. Arrived at the Umptpia, they encamped for the night on its southern 
 bank, unaware that tlu' natives in this vicinity (the Shastas) were more fierce 
 and treacherous* than the indolent tribes of California, for whom, probably, 
 they had a great contempt. All went well until the following morning, the 
 Indians hanging about the camp, but apparently friendly. Smith had just 
 breakfasted, and w:;s ocu-npied in looking for a fonling-jilace for the animals, 
 being on a raft, and having with him a little Englishman and one Indian. 
 When they were in the middle of the river the Ip;iian snateheil Smith's gun 
 and jumped iiH'j the water. At the tame instnut a yell from the eainp, which 
 was 'n sight, proclaimed that it was attackctd. Quick as thought Smith 
 snatched the Englishman's gun, and shot, dead the Indian in the river. 
 
 To return to the camp was certain death. \h'(!ady several of his men had 
 fallen ; overpowered by numbers he could not hope that any would liseape, and 
 ni.tliing was left him but fiight. He succeetled in getting to the o])posite shore 
 with his rafl Ix'fore h<> could be intercepted, and fled with his companion, on 
 foot and with only one gun, and no provisions, to the mountains tliat border 
 the river. With great good fortune they were enabled to pass through the re- 
 maining two hundred miles of their journey without accident, though not with- 
 out snfTering, and reach Fort Vancouver in a destitute condition, where they 
 were kindly cared for. 
 
JOSEPH L. MEEK. 
 
 ar> 
 
 Of the mpn left in camp, only two escaped. One man named Black de- 
 fondt (1 himself until he saw an ojjportunity for flight, when he escapeil to the 
 cover of the woods, and finally to a friendly tribe farther north, near the coast, 
 who piloted him to Vancouver. The remaining man was one Turner, of a very 
 powerful fi'ame, who was doing camp duty as cook on this eventful morning. 
 When the Indians rushed upon him he defended himself with a huge firebrand, 
 or half-burnt popiar stick, with which he laid al)Out him like Sampson, killing 
 four red-skins before he saw a chance of escape. Singularly, for one in his ex- 
 tremity, he did escape, and also arrived at Vancouver that winter. 
 
 Dr. McLaughlin received the unlucky trader and his three surviving men 
 w.'h every mark and expression of kindne"', and entertained them through the 
 winter. Not only this, but he dispatched a strong, armed party to the scene 
 of the disaster to punish the Indians and recover the stolen goods ; all of which 
 was done at his own expense, both as an act of friendship toward his Ameri- 
 can rivals, and as necessary to the discipune which they everywhere maintained 
 among the Indians. Should this offence go unpunished, the next attack might 
 be upon one of his own parties ,"'>ing annually down into California. Sir 
 George Simpson, the Governo. of the Hudson's Bay Company, chanced to be 
 spending the winter at Vancouver. He offered to send Suuth to Londim the 
 following summer, in the Company's vessel, where he might dispose of his fiu-s 
 to advantage ; but Smith declined this offer, and finally sold his furs to Dr. 
 AlcLaughlin, and returned in the sjOTng to the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 On Sublette's return from St. Louis, in the summer of 182!), v.ith men and 
 merchandise for the year's trade, 1m) became uneasy on accoimt of Smith's i)ro- 
 tracted absence. According to a previous phin, he took a large party into the 
 Snake River country to hunt. Among the rc^cruits fr.iui St. Louis was Joseph 
 L. Meek, the subject of ihe narrative following this ehaptei . Sublette not 
 meeting with Smith's party on its way from the Columbia, as he still hoped, at 
 length detailed a party to look for him on the head-wat<^rs of the Snake. Mei'k 
 was one of the men sent to look for the missing partner, whom he discovered 
 at length in PieiTc's Hole, a deep valley in the mountains, from which issues 
 the Snake River in many living streams. Smith returntid with the men to 
 camp, where the tale of his disasters was received after the manner of moun- 
 tain-men, simply declaring with a momentarily sobered countenance, that their 
 comrade has not been "in luck;" with which briif and ecjuivocal exjjression 
 of sympathy the s»dije(;t is dismissed. To dwell on the dangers incident to 
 their calling woidd be to half disarm themselves of their necessary courage ; 
 and it is only when they are gathered about the fire in their winter camp, that 
 they indulge in tiiles of wild advenUire and " hair-breadth 'scapes," or make 
 sorrowiid retorence to a comr.'ulc lost. 
 
 Influenced by the hospitable treatment which Smith had received at the 
 hands of the Hudson's Bay ('ompany, the partners now determined to with- 
 draw from competition with them in the Snake country, and to trap ".pon the 
 waters of the Colorado, in the neighborhood of their fort. But " luck," the 
 moimtain-man's Providence, seemed to have deserted Smith. In crossing the^ 
 Colorado River with a considerable collection of skins, i;e was again attacked 
 
 
36 
 
 WYETH S EXPEDITIOiNS. 
 
 >'l i 
 
 by Indians, and only escaped by losing all his property. lie then went to St. 
 I^ouis for a supply of merchandise, and fitted out a trading party for Santa Fe ; 
 but on his way to that place was kiLed in an encounter with the savages. 
 
 Turner, the man who so valiantly wielded the firebrand on the Umpqua 
 River, several years later met with a similar adventure on the Rogue River, in 
 Southern Oregon, and was the means of saving the lives of his party by his 
 courage, strength, and alertness. He finally, when trapping had become un- 
 profitable, retired upon a f rm in the Wallamet Valley, as did many other 
 mountain-men who survived the dangers of their perilous trade. c, 
 
 After tlie death of Smith, the Rocky Mountain Fur Company continued its 
 operations under th3 command of Bridger, Fitzpatrick, and ]V'i:tou Sublette, 
 brother of William. In the spring of 1830 they rece'r,'''- 1 ibi^ ^o hundred 
 recruits, and with litde variation kept up their number ot r st ... .u tr hundred 
 men for a period of eight or ten years longer, o^ 'intil the beaver were hunted 
 out of every nook and corner of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 Previous to 1835, there were in and about the Rocky Mountiiins, beside the 
 " American " and " Rocky Mountain " companies, the St. Louis Company, and 
 eight or ten " lone traders." Among these latter were William Sublette, 
 Robert Campbell, J. O. Pattie, Mr. Pilcher , Col. Charles Bent, St. Vrain, 
 W'illiam Bent, Mr. Gant, and Mr. Blackwell. All these companies and 
 traders more or less frequently penetrated into the countries of New Mexico, 
 Old Mexico, Sonora, and California ; returning sometimes through the moun- 
 tain regions of the latter State, by the Humboldt River to the head-waters of 
 the Colorado. Seldom, in all their journeys, did they intrude on that portion 
 of the Indian Territory lying within three hundred miles of Fort Vancouver, 
 or which forms the area of the present State of Oregon. 
 
 Up to 1832, the fur trade in the West had been chiefly conducted h v-.cr- 
 chants from the frontier cities, especially by those of St. Louia. i ' !• 
 "North American " was the only exception. But in the spring of ti « a . 
 Captain Bonneville, an United States officer on furlough, led a company ol > 
 hundred men, with a train of wagons, horses ai. niules, with merchandise, into 
 the trapping grounds of the Rocky Mountains. His wagons ^»rere the first that 
 had ever crossed the summit of these mountains, though W'illiam Sublette had, 
 two or three years previous, brought wagons as far as the valley of the Wind 
 River, on the east side of the range. Captain Bonneville remained nearly 
 three years in tlie hunting and trapping grounds, taking parties of men into 
 the Colorado, Humboldt, and Sfvcrameuto valleys ; - it ^e realized no profits 
 from his expedition, being opposed and competed ., ' oy both Ii' ish and 
 American traders of larger experience. 
 *' But Captain Bonneville's venture was a fortunate one compared i '^ h t 
 • of Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth of Massachusetts, who also crossed the continviit in 
 ^' 1832, with the view of establishing a trade on the Columbia River Mr. Wyeth 
 brought with him a small party of men, aii inc • -m ienced in frontier or moun- 
 tain life, and destined for a talmon fisJi r) on tlv; ' oi'imbia. He had reached 
 Independence, Missouri, the last statio'i before plu;,gu,g into the wilderness, and 
 found himself somewhat at a loss how to proceed, uuul, at this juncture, he was 
 
DECLINE OF THE iMERICAN FUR TRADE. 
 
 37 
 
 overtaken by tba party of William Sublette, from St. Louis to the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, with whom he travelled in company to the rentlezvous at Pierre's Hole. 
 
 When Wyeth arrived at the Columbia River, after tarrying until he had 
 acquired some mountain experiences, he found that his vessel, which was loaded 
 with mere 'landise for the Columbia River trade, had not arrive.]. He remained 
 at Vancouver through the winter, the guest of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 and either having learned or surmised that his vessel was wrecked, returned to 
 the United States in the following year. Not discouraged, howe ver, he made 
 another venture in 1834, despatching the ship May Dacre, Captain Lambert, 
 for the Columbia River, with another cargo of Indian goods, traveling himself 
 overland with a party of two hundred men, and a considerable quantity of mer- 
 chandise which he expected to sell to the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. In 
 til's expectation he wus defeated by William Sublette, who had also brought out 
 s large assortment of goods for the Indian trade, and had sold out, supplying 
 the market, before Mr. AVyeth arrived. 
 
 Wyeth then built a post, named Fort Hall, on Snake River, at the junction 
 of the Portneuf, where he stored his goods, and having detached most of his 
 men in trapping parties, proceeded to the Columbia River to meet the May 
 Dacre. He reached the Columbia about the same iime with his vessel, and 
 proceeded at once to erect a salmon fishery. To fc ward this purpose he built 
 a post, called Fort William, on the lower end of Wapp.itoo (now known as 
 Sauvle's) Island, near where the Lower Wallamet falls into the Columbia. But 
 for various reasons he found the business on which he had entered unprofitable. 
 He had much trouble with the Indians, his men were killed or drowned, so that 
 by the time ho had half a cargo of fish, he was ready to abandon the effort to 
 establish a commerce with the Oregon Indians, and was satisfied that no enter- 
 prise less stupendous and powerful than that of the Hudson's Bay Company 
 could be long sustainijd in that country. 
 
 Much complnint was subsequently made by Americans, chiefly Missionaries, 
 of the conduct of that company in not allowing Mr. Wyeth to purchase beayor 
 skins of tlid Indians, hut Mr. Wyeth himself made no such complaint. Person- 
 ally, he was treated with u iv \rying kindnes j, courtesy, and hospitality. As a 
 trader, they would not pen.iit him to undersell them. In truth, they no do«^ 
 wished him away ; because conij^etition ^.ould soon ruin the business of eithijijf ' 
 and they liked not to havf, the Indim;:. taught to expect more than their furs 
 were worih, nor to ha. \; the Indians' confidence in themselves destroyed or 
 tampered with. 
 
 Tlie Hudson's Bay Company were hardly so unfi-iendly to him as the Ameri- 
 can companies ; since to the former he was enabled to sell his goods and fort on 
 the Snake River, before he returned to the United States, which he did in 1835. 
 
 The sale of Fort Hall to the Hudson's Bay Company was a finishing blow at 
 the American fur trade in the Rocky Mountains, which ailer two or three years 
 of constantly declining profits, was entirely abandoned. 
 
 Something of the dangers incident to the life of the hunter and trapper may 
 be gathered from the following statements, made by various parties who have 
 been engaged in it. In 1808, a Mis.^ouri Company engaged in fur hunting on 
 
 1 -will 
 
 .III 
 
 \/% 
 
 ili 
 
^8 
 
 CAUSES OF THE INDIANS HOSTILITY. 
 
 the three forks of the river IMissouri, were attacked by Blackfeet, losing twenty- 
 seven men, and being compelled to abandon the country. In 1823, Mr. Ashley 
 was attacked on the same river by the Arickaras, and had twenty-six men 
 killed. About the same time the Missouri company lost seven men, and fifteen 
 thousand dollars' worth of merchandise on the Yellowstone River. A few years 
 previous, Major Henry lost, on the Missouri River, six men and fifty horses. 
 In the sketch tjiven of Smith's trading adventures is shown how uncertain were 
 life anil property at a later period. Ot the two hundred men whom Wyeth 
 •"^ i-to the Indian country, only about forty were alive at the end of three 
 Tliere was, indeed, a constant state of warfare betwcien the Indians 
 ai.. ,.e whites, wherever the American Companies hunted, in which great 
 numbers of both lost their lives. Add to this cause of decimation the perils 
 from wild beasts, famine, cold, and all manner of accidents, and the trapper's 
 chance of life was about one in three. 
 
 Of the causes which have produced the enmity of the Indians, there are 
 about as many. It was found to be the case almost universally, that on the 
 first visit of the whites the natives were friendly, after their natural fears had 
 been allayed. But by degrees their cupidity was excited to possess themselves 
 of the much coveted dress, arms, and goods of their visitors. As they had 
 little or nothing to offer in exchange, which the white man considered an equiva- 
 lent, they took Jie only method remaining of gratifying their desire of possess- 
 ion, and stole the coveted articles which they could not purchase. When they 
 learned that the white men punished theft, they murdered to preveni the pun- 
 ishment. Often, also, they had wrongs of their own to avenge. White men 
 did not always regard their property-rights. They were guilty of infamous 
 conduct toward Indian women. What one party of whites told them was true, 
 another plainly contradicted, leaving the lie between them. They were over- 
 bearing toward the Indians on their own soil, exciting to irrepressible hostility 
 the natural jealousy of the inferior toward the superior race, where both are 
 fi-ee, which characterizes all people. Jn short, the Indians were not without 
 their grievances ; and from barbarous ignorance and wrong on one side, and 
 intelligent tArrong-doing on the other, together with the misunderstandings likely 
 to arise between two entirely distinct races, gi-ew constantly a thousand abuses, 
 •which resulted in a deadly enmity between the two. 
 
 For several reasons this evil existed to a greater degree among the American 
 traders and trappers than among the British. Tlie American trapper was not, 
 like the Iludson'f? Bay employees, bred to the i usiness. Oftener than any 
 other way he was some wild youth who, after an ct capade in the society of his 
 native place, sought safety from reproach or punishment in the wildernc^ Or 
 he was some disappointed man who, with feelings embittered towards his fellows, 
 preferred the seclusion of the forest and mountain. Many were of a class dis- 
 reputable everywhere, who gladly embraced a life not subject to social laws. 
 A few were brave, independent, and hardy spirits, who delighte<l in the hard- 
 ships and wild adventures their calling made necessary. All these men, the 
 best with the worst, were subject to no will but their own ; and all experience 
 goes to prove that a life of perfect liberty is apt to degenerate into a life of 
 
•1- '.>''■' 
 
 HEAVY LOSS OP LIFE. 
 
 39 
 
 license. Even their own lives, and those of their companions, when it depended 
 uj)on their own prudence, were but liglitly considered. The constant presence 
 of danger made them reckless. It is easy to conceive how, under these cir- 
 cumstances, the natives and the foreigners grew to hate each other, in the 
 Indian country ; especially after tha Americans came to the determination to 
 " shoot an Indian at sight," unless he belonged to some tribe with whom they 
 had intermarried, after the manner of the traj)pers. 
 
 On the other hand, the employees of the Hudson's Bay Company were many 
 of them half-breeds or full-blooded Indians of the Iroquois nation, towards 
 whom nearly all the tribes were kindly disposed. Even the Frenchmen who 
 trapped for this company were well liked by the Indians on account of their 
 suavity of manner, and the ease with which they adapted themselves to savage 
 life. Besides most of them had native wives and half-breed children, and were 
 regarded as relatives. They were trained to the life of a trapper, were subject 
 to the will of the Company, and were generally just and equitable in their deal- 
 ings with the Indians, according to that company's will, and the dictates of 
 prudence. Here was a wide difference. 
 
 Notwithstanding this, there were many dangers to be encoimtered. The 
 hostility of some of the tribes could never be overcome; nor has it ever abated. 
 Such were the Ci'ows, the Blackfeet, the Cheyennes, the Apaches, the Caman- 
 ches. Only a superior force could compel tlie friendly offices of these tribes 
 for any white man, and then their treachery wr 5 ae dangerous as their open 
 hostility. 
 
 It happened, therefore, that although the Hudson's Bay Company lost com- 
 paratively few men by the hands of the Indians, they sometimes found them 
 inipl.acable foes in common with the American trappers ; and frequently one 
 party was very glad of the others' assistance. Altogether, as has before been 
 stated, the loss of life was immense in proportion to the number employed. 
 
 Very few of those who had spent years in the Rocky Mountains ever returned 
 to the United States. With their Indian wives and half-breed children, they 
 scattered themselves throughout Oregon, until when, a number of years after 
 the abandonment of the fur trade. Congress donated large tracts of land to 
 actual settlers, they laid claim, each to his selected portion, and became active 
 citizens of their adopted state. 
 
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EAULY LIFE OF JOaEPH L. MEEK. 
 
 m 
 
 i.,:i 
 
 '■' ' . ' 
 
 ■I..., -'j: 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 I ;. ; . 
 
 Ill 
 
 As has been stated in the Introduction, Joseph L. Meek 
 was a native of Washington Co., Va. Born in the early- 
 part of the present century, and brought up on a planta- 
 tion where the utmost liberty was accorded to the "young 
 raassa;" preferring out-door sports with the youthful 
 bondsmen of his father, to study with the bald-headed 
 schoolmaster who furnished him the alphabet on a paddle ; 
 possessing an exhaustless fund of waggish humor, united 
 to a spirit of adventure and remarkable personal strength, 
 he unwittingly furnished in himself the very material of 
 which the heroes of the wilderness were made. Virginia, 
 "the mother of Presidents," has furnished many such men, 
 who, in the early days of the now populous Western States, 
 became the hardy frontiers-men, or the fearless Indian 
 fighters who were the bone and sinew of the land. 
 
 When young Joe was about eighteen years of age, he 
 wearied of the monotony of plantation life, and jumping 
 into the wagon of a neighbor who was going to Louis, 
 ville, Ky., started out in life for himself He "reckoned 
 they did not grieve for him at home;" at which conclu- 
 sion others besides Joe naturally arrive on hearing v.f his 
 heedless disposition, and utter contempt for the ordinary 
 and useful employments to which other men ap})ly them- 
 selves. This truly Virginian and chivalric contempt for 
 " honest labor " has continued to distinguish him through- 
 out his eventful career, even while performing the most 
 arduous duties of the life hd had chosen. 
 
 ^ r) 
 
 m 
 
 •:hm 
 
4! 
 
 HE ENLISTS IN A FUIt COMPANY, 
 
 Joe probably believed that should his lather grieve for 
 him, his step-mother would be able to console him; this 
 step-mother, though a pious and good Avoman, not being 
 one of the lad's favorites, as might easily be conjectured. 
 It was such thoughts as these that kept up his resolution 
 to seek the far west. In the autumn of 1828 he arrived 
 in St. Louis, and the following sprihg he fell in with Mr. 
 Wm. Sublette, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, who 
 was making his annual visit to that frontier town to pur- 
 chase merchandise for the Indian country, and pick up re- 
 cruits for the fur-hunting service. To this experienced 
 leader he offered himself. :'{* ^;,,lw.„:.'^v^t,■,. 
 
 ■iiiu: 
 
 V^>':" 
 
 
 ^^'■ f^v 
 
 ■ ■', i>Kv f/i'i-y ^^\in'(:,. 
 
 THE ENLISTMENT. 
 
 " How old are you ?" asked Sublette. 
 '^- " A little past eighteen." 
 
 " And you want to go to the Rocky Mountains ?" 
 "Yes." 
 
ON THE MARCH — CAMP LIFE. 
 
 43 
 
 "You don't know what you are talking about, boy. 
 You'll be killed before you get half way there." ' 
 
 "If I do, I reckon I can die!" said Joe, with a flash of 
 his full dark eyes, and throwing back his shoulders to show 
 their breadth. 
 
 " Come," exclaimed the trader, eyeing the youthful can- 
 didate with admiration, and perhaps a touch of pity also ; 
 "that is the game spirit. I think you'll do, after all. 
 Only be prudent, and keep your wits about you." 
 
 "Where else should they be?" laughed Joe, as he 
 maiched off, feeling an inch or two taller than before. 
 
 Then commenced the business of preparing for the jour- 
 ney — making acquaintance with the other recruits — enjoy- 
 ing the novelty of owning an outfit, being initiated into 
 the mysteries of camp duty by the few old hunters who 
 were to accompany the expedition, and learning some- 
 thing of their swagger and disregard of civilized observ- 
 ances. 
 
 On the 17th of March, 1829, the company, numbering 
 about sixty men, left St. Louis, and proceeded on horses 
 and mules, with pack-horses for the goods, up through the 
 state of Missouri. Camp-life commenced at the start ; and 
 this being the season of the year when the weather is 
 most disagreeable, its romance rapidly melted away with 
 the snow and sleet which varied the sharp spring wind 
 and the frequent cold rains. The recruits went through 
 all the little mishaps incident to the business and to their 
 inexperience, such as involuntary somersaults over the 
 heads of their mules, bloody noses, bruises, dusty faces, 
 bad colds, accidents in fording streams, — yet withal no 
 very serious hurts or hindrances. Rough weather and se- 
 vere exercise gave them wolfish appetites, which sweet- 
 ened the coarse camp-fare and amiteur cooking. 
 
 Getting up at four o'clock of a March morning to kmdle 
 
 i 
 
 m 
 
 ■M 
 
44 
 
 A WARNING VOICE. 
 
 :»'»iaj 
 
 M; 
 
 li-i 
 
 fires and attend to the animals was not the most delect- 
 able duty that our labor-despising young recruit could 
 have chosen ; but if he repented of the venture he had 
 made nobody was the wiser. Sleeping of stormy nights 
 in corn-cribs or under sheds, could not be by any stretch 
 of imagination converted into a highly romantic or heroic 
 mode of lodging one's self The squalid manner of living 
 of the few inhabitants of Missouri at this period, gave a 
 forlorn aspect lo the country which is lacking in the wil- 
 derness itself; — a thought which sometimes occurred to 
 Joe like a hope for the future. Mountain-fare he began 
 to think must be better than the boiled corn and pork of 
 the Missourians. Antelope and buffalo meat were more 
 suitable viands for a hunter than coon and opossum. 
 Thus those very duties which seemed undignified, and 
 those hardships without danger or glory, which marked 
 the beginning of his career made him ambitious o^ a more 
 free and hazardous life on the plains and. in the moun- 
 tains. 
 
 Among the recruits was a young man not far from Joe's 
 own age, named, Robert Newell, from Ohio. One morn- 
 ing, when the company was encamped near Boonville, the 
 two young men were out looking for their mules, when 
 they encountered an elderly woman returning from the 
 milking yard with a gourd of milk. Newell made some 
 remark on the style of vessel she carried, when she broke 
 out in a sharp voice, — 
 
 "Young chap, I'll bet you run oiF from your mother! 
 Who'll mend them holes in the elbow of your coat? 
 You're a purty looking chap to go to the mountains, 
 among them Injuns ! They'll Icill you. You'd better go 
 back home!" 
 
 Considering that these h'ontier people knew what In- 
 dian fighting was, this was no doubt sound and disinter- 
 
 m 
 
^ 
 
 LAST VEariOR OF CIVILIZATION. 
 
 ^m 
 
 osted advice, notwithstanding it was given somewhat 
 .sharply. And so the young men felt it to be ; but it waa , 
 not in the nature of either of them to turn buck from a 
 course because there was danger in it. The thought of r 
 home, and somebody to mend their coats, was, however, i 
 for the time strongly presented. But the company moved , 
 on, with undiminished numbers, stared at by the few in- :; 
 habitants, and having their own little adventures, until , 
 they came to Independence, the last station before com- {, 
 mitting themselves to the wilderness. , 
 
 At this place, which contained a dwelling-hcuse, cotton- . 
 gin, and grocery, the camp tarried for a few days to adjust j 
 the packs, and prepare for a final start across the plains, i 
 On Sunday the settlers got together for a shooting-match, . 
 iu which some of the travelers joined, without winning ,' 
 many laurels. Coon-skins, deer-skins, and bees-wax . 
 changed hands freely among the settlers, whose skill with .; 
 the rifle was greater than their hoard of silver dollars. 
 This was the last vestige of civilization which the com- 
 pany could hope to behold for years ; and rude as it was, 
 yet won from them many a parting look as they finally 
 took their way across the plains toward the Arkansas 
 River. 
 
 Often on this part of the march a dead silence fell upon 
 the party, which remained unbroken for mil< - c " the way. 
 Many no doubt were regretting homes by them abandoned, 
 or wondering dreamily how many and whom of that com- 
 pany would ever see the Missouri country again. Many 
 indeed went the way the woman of the gourd had prophe- 
 sied; but not the hero of this story, nor his comrade 
 
 Newell. ^ .. Ktfisji?u ■<i^tiSi- 
 
 The route of Captain Sublette led across the country 
 from near the mouth of the Kansas River to the River Ar- 
 kansas ; thence to the South Fork of the Platte ; thence 
 
 
 :/' 
 
 it 
 
 
4» 
 
 CAMP SrnntlSKD by IXDIAXfl. 
 
 /'■ 
 
 on to tlio North Fork of that Rivor, to Avhoro Ft. Lin-junifl 
 now .stauda; tlieiico up the Mmth Fork to the Sweetwater, 
 and theiiee across in a still northwesterly direction to the 
 head of Wind River. 
 
 The manner of camp-travel is now so well known 
 through the writings of Irving, and still more from the 
 great numbers which have crossed the plains since Astoria 
 and Bonneville were written, that it would be superfluous 
 here to enter upon a particular description of a train on 
 that journey. A strict half-military discipline had to be 
 maintained, regular duties assigned to each person, pre- 
 cautions taken against the loss of animals c 'er by stray- 
 ing or Indian stampeding, etc. Some ol men Averc 
 appointed as cam[)-keepers, who had all tncse things to 
 .look after, besides standing guard. A few were se- 
 lected as hunters, and these were free to come and go, as 
 their calling required. None but the most experienced 
 were chosen for hunters, on a march; therefore our re- 
 cruit could not aspire to that dignity yet. 
 
 The first adventure the company met with worthy of 
 m,ention after leaving Independence, was in crossing the 
 country between the Arkansas and the Platte. Here the 
 camp Wi'.3 surprised one morning by a band of Indians a 
 thousand strong, that came sweoy)ing down upon them in 
 such -warlike style that even Captniii Sublette was fiin to 
 believe it his last battle. Upon the open prairie there is 
 no such thing as flight, nor any cover under which to con- 
 ceal a party even for a few moments. It is always ^^hi 
 or die, if the assailants are in the humor for war. 
 
 Happily on this occasion the band proved to be more 
 peaceably disposed than their appearance indicated, being 
 the warriors of several tribes — the Sioux, Arapahoes, Kio- 
 was, and Cheyennes, who had been holding a council to 
 consider probably what mischief they could do to some 
 
A riUM FUONT — A PAHLKY. 
 
 4t 
 
 utluM- tribos. The spectacle they presented as they (^aine 
 lit full speed on horseback, armed, painted, brandisliing 
 tlieir weaj)ons, and yellinfj^ in lirst rate Indian style, was 
 one which might well strike with a palsy the stoutest 
 heart and arm. What were a band of sixty men against 
 a thousand armed warrioi-s in full lighting trim, with 
 s[)ears, shields, bows, battle-axes, and not a few guns? 
 
 But it is the rule of the mountain-men to pjht — and 
 that there is a chance for life until the breath is out of the 
 l)()(ly ; therefore Captain Sublette had his little force 
 drawn up in line of battle. On came the savages, whoop- 
 ing and swinging their weapons above their heads. Sub- 
 lette turned to his men. "When you hear my shot, then 
 lire." Still they came on, until within about fifty paces 
 of the line of wail ing men. Sul^lette turned his head, and 
 saw his command with their guns all up *to their faces 
 leady to fire, then raised his own gun. Just at this mo- 
 ment the principal chief sprang off his horse and laid his 
 weapon on the ground, making signs of peace. Then fol- 
 lowed a talk, and after the giving of a considerable pres- 
 ent, Sublette was allowed to depart. This he did with all 
 dispatch, the company putting as much distance as possi- 
 ble between themselves and their visitors before making 
 their next camp. Considering the warlike character of 
 these tribes and their superior numbers, it was as narrow 
 an escape on the part of the company as it was an excep- 
 tional freak of generosity on the part of the savages to 
 allow it. But Indians have all a great respect for a man 
 who shows no fear ; and it was most probably the warlike 
 movement of Captain Sublette and his party which in- 
 '^pired a willingness on the part of the chief to accept a 
 present, when he had the power to have taken the whole 
 train. Besides, according to Indian logic, the present 
 cost him nothing, and it might cost him many warriors ta 
 
 'if 
 
 m 
 
 
 . /| 
 
 ' 1 
 
 i, i 1 
 
 
 \;4 
 
m»v' 
 
 48 
 
 THE SUMMER RENDEZVOUS. 
 
 capture the train. Ilud there been the least wavering on 
 Sublette's part, or fear in the countenances of his men, the 
 end of the affair would have been different. This -adven- 
 ture was a grand initiation of the raw recruits, giving 
 them both an insight into savage modes of attack, and an 
 opportunity to t-ist their own nerve. 
 
 The company proceeded without accident, and arrived, 
 about the first of -Tuly, at the rendezvous, which was ap- 
 pointed for this year on the Popo Agie, one of the streams 
 which form the head-waters of Bighorn River. 
 
 Now, indeed, young Joe hdd an opportunity of seeing 
 something of the life upon which he had entered. As 
 customary, when the traveling partner arrived at rendez- 
 vous with the year's merchandise, there was a meeting of 
 ail the partners, if they were within rea^'h of the appcmted 
 place. On this occasion Smith was ivbsent on his tour 
 through California and Western Oregon, as h.is been 
 related in the prefator}'" chapter. Jackson, the resident 
 partner, and commander for the p/'^vious year, was not 
 yet in ; and Sublette had just arrived witlv the goods 
 from St. Louis. 
 
 All the different hunting and trapping parties and In- 
 dian allies were gathered together, so that the camp con- 
 tained several hundred men, with their riding and pack- 
 horses. Nor were Indian women and children wanting to 
 give variety and an appearance of domesticity to the 
 scene. 
 
 The Summer reridezvous was always chosen in some 
 valley where there was grass for the aiiimals, and game 
 for the camp. The plnins along the Popo Agie, besides 
 furnishing these necessary bounties, were bordered by pic- 
 turesque mountain ranges, whose naked bluffs of red sand- 
 stone glowed in the morning and evening sun with a mel- 
 lowness of coloring charming to the eye of the Virginia 
 
 1 
 
 <9f 
 
 Si! 
 
 si 
 
 N 
 
 i 
 
 L 
 
i 
 
 I .ia 
 
recruit 
 wild f 
 wliite ( 
 ing ani 
 the i?i 
 motley 
 murmn 
 ited an 
 
 cou 
 
 ^1 
 
 Bit 
 
 All ve 
 full an 
 genera 
 very c( 
 year's 
 huiidre 
 
 The 
 greatly 
 regulai 
 trap fo 
 quired 
 the pa 
 his con 
 load th 
 do any 
 vice he 
 horses, 
 outfit, ] 
 dollars 
 
 Ther 
 nishcd 
 and wl 
 
 * Loadt 
 from the ( 
 
AN ENCHANTING PICTURE. 
 
 49 
 
 recruit. The waving grass of the plain, variegated with 
 wild flowers; the clear summer heavens flecked with 
 white clouds that threw soft shr,dows in passing ; the graz- 
 ing animals scattered about the meadows; the lodges of 
 the Booshivay.%^ around which clustered the camp in 
 motley garb and brilliant coloring ; gay laughter, and the 
 murmur of soft Indian voices, all made up a most spir- 
 ited and enchanting picture, in which the eye of an artist 
 couM not fail to delight. 
 
 B'lt as the goods were opened the scene grew livelier. 
 All T/ere eager to purchase, most of the trappers to the 
 full amount of their years wages; and some of them, 
 generally free trappers, went in debt to the company to a 
 very considerable amount, after spending the value of a 
 year's labor, privation, and danger, at the rate of several 
 hundred dollars in a single flay. 
 
 The difFerence between .4 hired and a free trapper wns 
 greatly in favor of the latter. Th<> liired trapper was 
 regularly indentured, and bound aot only to hunt and 
 trap for his employers, but also to peiform any duty re- 
 quired of him in camp. The Booshway, or the trad< , or 
 the partisan, (leader of the detachment,) harl him under 
 his command, to make him take charge of, ioad and un- 
 load the horses, stand guard, cook, hunt fuel, or, in short, 
 do any and every duty. In return for this toil^' ^e ser- 
 vice he received an outfit of traps, arms and fc amnition, 
 horses, rnd whatever his service required. Besides his 
 outfit, he received no more than three or four hundred 
 dollars a year as wages. 
 
 There was also a class of free trappers, who were fur- 
 nished with their outfit by the company they trapped for, 
 and who were obliged to agree to a certain stipulated 
 
 p!rtKrT73 
 
 * Leaders or cliiufs — corrupted from the Freiwih of Bourgc is, and borrowed 
 from the Canadians. 
 
 ii ^ 
 
50 
 
 THK FREE TUAPPER S INDIAN WIFE, 
 
 {jrice for their furs before the hunt commenced. Blut the 
 g-enuine free trapper regarded himself as greatly the su- 
 perior of either of the foregoing classes. He had his own 
 horses and accoutrements, arms and ammunition. He 
 took what route he thought ft, hunted and trapped when 
 and 'where he chose ; traded with the Indians ; sold his 
 furs to whoever offered highest for them ; dressed fiaunt- 
 ingly, and generally had an Indian wife and half-breed 
 children. They prided themselves on their hardihood 
 and courage ; even on their recklessness and profligacy. 
 Each claimed to own the best horse; to have had the 
 wildest adventures; to have made the most nairow es- 
 capes ; to have killed the greatest number of bears and In- 
 dians ; to be the greatest favorite with the Indian belles, 
 the greatest consumer of alcohol, and to have the most 
 money to spend, ?. e. the largest credit on the books of 
 the company. If his hearers did not believe hi:n, he was 
 ready to run a race wnth him, to beat him at "old sledge," 
 or to fight, if fighting was preferred, — ready to prove 
 what he affirmed in any manner the company pleased. 
 
 If the free trapper had a wife, she moved wnth the 
 camp to ^vhich lie attached himself, being furnished with 
 a fine horse, caparisoned in the gayest and costliest man- 
 ner. Her dress was of the finest goods the market af- 
 forded, and was suitably ornamented with beads, ribbons, 
 fringes, and feathers. Her rark, too, as a free trapper's 
 wife, gave her consequence not only in her own eyes, but 
 in those of her tribe, and protected her from that slavish 
 drudgery to which as the ife of an Indian hunter or war- 
 rior she would have beon subject. The cnly authority 
 which the free trapper nc-knowledged was that of his In- 
 dian spouse, who generally ruled in the lo.lge, i:owever 
 her lord blustered outside. 
 
 One of the free trapper's special delights was to take in 
 
WILD CAROUSALS. 
 
 I 'H-iT 
 
 51 
 
 ^and the raw recruits, to gorge their wonder with his 
 boastful tales, and to amuse himself with shocking his pu- 
 pil's civilized notions of propriety. Joe Meek did not 
 escape this sort of "breaking in;" and if it should appear 
 in the course of this narrative that he proved an apt 
 scholar, it will but illustrate a truth — that high spirits and 
 fine talents tempt the tempter to win them over to his 
 ranks. But Joe was not won over all at once. He be- 
 held the beautiful spectacle of the encampment as it has 
 been described, giving life and enchantment to the sum- 
 mer landscape, -changed into a scene of the wildest ca- 
 rousal, going from bad to .worse, until from harmless 
 noise and bluster it came to fighting and loss of life. At 
 this first rendezvous he was shocked to behold the revolt- 
 ing exhibition of four trappers playing at 9 game of cards 
 with the dead body of a comrade for a card-table ! Such 
 was the indifference to all the natural and ordinary emo- 
 tions which these veterans of the wilderness cultivated in 
 themselves, and inculcated in those who came under their 
 influence. Scenes like this at first had the effect to bring 
 feelings of home-sickness, while it inspired by contrast a 
 sort of penitential and religious feeling also. According 
 to Meek's account of those early days in the mountains, 
 he said some secret prayers, and shed some secret tears. . 
 But this did not last long. The force of example, and es- 
 pecially the force of ridicule, is very potent with the 
 young ; nor are we quite free fi'om their influence later in 
 life. 
 
 If the gambling, swearing, drinking, and fighting at 
 first astonished and alarmed the unsophisticated Joe, he 
 found at the same time something to admire, and that he 
 felt to 1)0 congenial with his own disposition, in the fearless- 
 ness, the contempt of sordid gain, the hearty merriment 
 and frolicsome abandon of the better portion of the men 
 
 f t n 
 
 i'TI 
 
 hi 
 
 iri 
 
 ; * 
 
 
 M 
 
52 
 
 ROUTINE OF CAMP LIFE. 
 
 about him. A spirit of emulation arose in him to become 
 as brave as the bravest, as hardy as the hardiest," and as 
 gay as the gayest, even while his feelings still revoHed at 
 many things which his heroic models were openly guilty of 
 If at any time in the future course of this narrative, Joe is 
 discovered to have taken leave of his early scruples, the 
 reader will considerately remember the associations by 
 which he was surrounded for years, until the memory of 
 the pious teachings of his childhood was nearly, if not 
 quite, obliterated. To "nothing extenuatp:, nor set down 
 aught in malice," should be the frame of mind in which 
 both the writer and reader of Joe's adventures should 
 strive to maintain himself 
 
 Before our hero is ushered upon the active scenes of a 
 trapper's life, it may be well to present to j;he reader a 
 sort of cjuide to camp life^ in order that he may be able 
 to understand some of its technicalities, as they may be 
 casually mentioned hereafter. 
 
 When the large camp is on the march, it has a leader, 
 generally one of the Booshways, who rides in advance, or 
 at the head of the column. Near him is a led mule, chosen 
 for its qualities of speed and trustworthiness, on which 
 are packed two small trunks that balance each other like 
 panniers, and which contain the company's books, papers, 
 and articles of agreement with the men. Then follow 
 the pack animals, each one bearing three packs — one on 
 each side, and one on top — so nicely adjusted as not to slip 
 in traveling. These are in charge of certain men called 
 camp-keepers, who have each three of these to look after. 
 The trappers and hunters have two horses, or mules, one 
 to ride, and one to pack their traps. If there are women 
 and children in the train, all are mounted. Where the 
 country is safe, the caravan moves in single file, often 
 stretching out for half or three-quarters of a mile. At 
 
CAMPING AT NIGHT. 
 
 53 
 
 the end of the <'olumii rides the second man, or "little 
 I3ooshway," as the men call him ; usually a hired officer, 
 whose business it is to look after the order and condition 
 of the Avhole camp. „ , 
 
 On arriving at a suitable spot to make the night camp, 
 the leader stops, dismounts in the particular space which 
 is to be devoted to himself in its midst. The others, as 
 they come up, form a circle ; the " second man" bringing 
 up the rear, to be sure all are there. He then proceeds 
 to appoint every man a place in the circle, and to exam- 
 ine the . horses' backs to see if any are sore. The horses 
 are then turned out, under a guard, to graze ; but before 
 darkness comes on are placed inside the ring, and pick- 
 eted by a stake driven in the earth, or with two feet 
 so tied together as to prevent easy or free locomotion. 
 The men are divided into mosses : so many trappers and 
 so many c keepers to a mess. The business of eating 
 is not a very elaborate one, where the sole article of diet 
 is meat, either dried or roasted. By a certain hour all is 
 c|uiet in camp, and only the guard is awake. At times 
 during the night, the leader, or the officer of the guard, 
 gives the guard a challenge — 'all's well ! " which is an- 
 swered by " all's well ! " 
 
 In the morning at daylight, or sometimes not till sun- 
 rise, according to the safe or dangerous locality, the sec- 
 ond man comes forth from his lodge and cries in French, 
 " Zeye, leve, leve, leve, level'''' fifteen or twenty times, which 
 is the command to rise. In about five minutes more he 
 cries out again, in French, "Zec/te Zer/o, leche lego!'''' or 
 turn out, turn out ; at which command all come out from 
 the lodges, and the horses are turned loose to feed ; but 
 not before a horseman has galloped all round the camp at 
 some distance, and discovered every thing to be safe in 
 the neighborhood. Again, when the horses have been 
 
 % 
 
^i 
 
 DIVIDING THE vJAME. 
 
 sufficiently fed, under the eye of a guard, they are driven 
 up, the pucks rc})laced, the train mounted, and once more 
 it moves off, in the order before mentioned. 
 
 In a settled camp, as in winter, there are other regula- 
 tions. The leader and the second man occupy the same 
 relative positions ; but other minor regulations are ob- 
 served. The duty of a trapper, for instance, in the trap- 
 ping season, is only to trap, and take care of hi3 own 
 horses. When he comes in at night, he takes his beaver 
 to the clerk, and the nuuiber is counted offi and placed to 
 his credit. Not he, but the camp-keepers, tiil <^ off the 
 skins and dry them. In the winter camp there are six 
 persons to a lodge : four trappers and two camp-ke(;pers ; 
 therefore the trappers are well waited upon, theii' only 
 duty being to hunt, in turns, for the camp. When a piece 
 of game is brought in, — a deer, an antelope, or buffalo 
 meat, — it is thrown down on the heap which accumulates 
 in front of the Booshway's lodge ; and the second, man 
 stands by and cuts it up, or has it cut up for him. The 
 first man who chances to come along, is ordered to stand 
 still and turn his bapk to the pile of game, while the 
 "little Booshway " lays hold of a piece that has been cut 
 oif, and asks in a loud voice — "who will have this?" — 
 and the man answering for him, says, " the Booshway," 
 or perhaps "number six," or "number twenty" — mean- 
 ing certain messes ; and the number is called to come and 
 take their meat. In this blind w^ay the meat is portioned 
 off; strongly reminding one of the game of "button, 
 button, who has the button?" In this chance game of 
 the meat, the Booshway fares no better than his men ; 
 unless, in rare instances, the little Booshway should indi- 
 cate to the man who calls off, that a certain choice piece 
 is designed for the mess of the leader or the second man. 
 
 A gun is never allowed to be fired in camp under any 
 
 
HMOKED MOCCASINS. 
 
 m 
 
 provocation, short of an Indian raid ; but the guns are 
 IVoiiuently inspected, to see if tlicy are in order ; and 
 woe to the careless camp-keeper who neglects this or any 
 other duty. When the second man conies around, and 
 linds a piece of work imperfectly done, whether it be 
 cleaning the firearms, making a hair rope, or a skin lodge, 
 or washing a horse's back, he does not threaten the 
 offender with personal chastisement, but calls up another 
 man and asks him, " Can t/oii do this properly ? '' 
 
 "Yes, sir." • ' ■■■ i-; ■,;,.;;,, . i^ ,,, 
 
 " I will give you ten dollars to do it ; " and the ten 
 dollars is set down to the account of the inefficient camp- 
 keeper. But he does not risk forfeiting another ten dol- 
 lars in the same manner. 
 
 In the spring, when the camp breaks up, the skins 
 which have been used all winter for lodges are cut up to 
 make moccasins : because from their having been thor- 
 oughly smoked by the lodge fires they do not shrink in 
 wetting, like raw skins. This is an important quality in a 
 moccasin, as a trapper is almost constantly in the water, 
 and should not his moccasins be smoked they will close 
 upon his feet, in drying, like a vice. Sometimes after 
 trapping all day, the tired and soaked trapper lies down 
 in his blankets at night, still wet. But by-and-by he is 
 wakened by the pinching of his moccasins, and is obliged 
 to rise and seek the water again to relieve himself of the 
 pain. For the same reason, when spring comes, the trap- 
 per is forced to cut off the lower half of his buckskin 
 breeches, and piece them down with blanket leggins, 
 which he wears all through the trapping season. 
 
 Such were a few of the peculiarities, and the hardships 
 also, of a life in the Rocky Mountains. If the camp dis- 
 cipline, and the dangers and hardships to which a raw re- 
 cruit was exposed, failed to harden him to the service in 
 
 ! ■» tl, 
 
 
 f , ' 
 
 "n»^ 
 
 
56 
 
 A "TRIFLING FELLOW." 
 
 one year, he was rejected as a "trifling follow," and sent 
 back to the settlement the next year. It was riot prob- 
 able, therefore, that the mountain-man often was detected 
 in complaining at his lot. If he was miserable, he was 
 laughed at ; and he soon learned to laugh at his own mis- 
 eries, as well as to laugh back at his comrades. 
 
 
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 :iji''r 
 
 i>j<n TiM.MiU'^^ 
 
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 uaij* 
 
THE CAMP IN MOTION. 
 
 57 
 
 ''I.'!': , 
 
 ■M.'.i 
 
 .1 
 
 CHAPTEU II 
 
 ^' 
 
 
 The business of the rendezvous occupied about e 
 month. In this period the men, Indian allies, and other 
 Indian parties who usually visited the camp at this time, 
 were all supplied with goods. The remaining merchandise 
 was adjusted for the convenience of the different traders 
 who should be sent out through all the country traversed 
 by the company. Sublette then decided upon their routes, 
 dividing up his forces into camps, which took each its ap- 
 pointed course, detaching as it proceeded small parties of 
 trappers to all the hunting grounds in the neighborhood. 
 These smaller camps were ordered to meet at certain times 
 and places, to report progress, collect and cache their furs, 
 and "count noses." If certain parties failed to arrive, 
 others were sent out in search for them. 
 
 This year, in the absence of Smith and Jackson, a con- 
 siderable party was dispatched, under Milton Sublette, 
 brother of the Captain, and two other free trappers and 
 traders, Frapp and Jervais, to traverse the country down 
 along the Bighorn River. Captain Sublette took a large 
 party, among whom was Joe Meek, across the mount.-iins 
 to trap on the Snake River, in opposition to the Hudson's 
 Bay Company. The Rocky Mountain Fur Company had 
 hitherto avoided this country, except when Smith had 
 once crossed to the head-waters of the Snake with a small 
 party of five trappers. But Smith and Sublette had 
 determined to oppose themselves to the British traders 
 
 ! ■( 
 
 ^ll 
 
wfrnjT'r -r 
 
 58 
 
 THK LOrtT FOUND BEAUTIFUL 8UENERY. 
 
 who occupied ho large an extent of territory presumed to 
 be American ; and it had been agreed between them to 
 meet this year on Snake River on Sublette's rctui'u I'roni 
 St. Louis, and Smith's from his California tour. What 
 befel Smith's party bclbre reaching the (,\jliimbi;i, hius 
 already boon related; also his reception by the 1' i Ison'a 
 Bay Company, and his (le[)arture from Vancouver. 
 
 Sublette led his comi)any up the valley of the Wind 
 River, acro.ss the mountains, and on to the very head-waters 
 of the Lewis or Snake River. Here he fell in with Jack- 
 son, in the valley of Lewis Lake, called Jackson's JIule, 
 and remained on the borders of this lake for some time, 
 waiting for Smith, whose non-appearance began to ^'^eate 
 a good deal of uneasiness. At length runners wc e dis- 
 patched in all directions looking for the lost Boo.shway. 
 
 The detachment to which Meek was assigned had the 
 pleasure and honor of discovering the hiding place of the 
 missing partner, which was in Pierre's Hole, a mountain 
 Viilley about thirty miles long and of half that width, 
 which subsequently was much frequented by the camps of 
 the various fur companies. He was found trapping and 
 exploring, in company with four men only, one of whom 
 was Black, who with him escaped from the Umpqua In- 
 dians, as before related. •--. •' ,.■'•• 
 
 Notwithstanding the excitement and elation attendant 
 upon the success of his party. Meek found time to admire 
 the magnificent scenery of the valley, which is bounded 
 on two sides by broken and pictui-esque ranges, and over- 
 looked by that magnificent group of mountains, called 
 the Three Tetons, towering to a height of fourteen thou- 
 sand feet. This emerald cup set in its rim of amethystine 
 mountains, was so pleasant a sight to the mountain-men 
 that camp was moved to it without delay, where it re- 
 mained until some time in September, recruiting its ani- 
 mals and preparing for the fall hunt. 
 
UKJoiciNOrt IN i;ami'. 
 
 ■') 
 
 '■lit''' 
 
 59 
 
 IFcro agiiiii tlie tnip{)c:-) in(lul<,fod in Ihoir noisy sports 
 and ivjoicin;^', ostensibly on account of tlie return of th(; 
 long-Jibsent liooshway. There was little said of the in(ni 
 who had perished in that nnforiunatc expcMlition. "Poor 
 fellow! out of luck;" was the usual burial rite which 
 I lie memory of a dead comrade received. So much and 
 no more. They could indidge in noisy rejoicings over a 
 lost comrade restored ; but the dead one was not men- 
 tioned. Nor was this ajjparcntly heartless and heedless 
 manner so irrational or unfeeling as it seemed. Every- 
 body understood one thing in the mountains — that ho must 
 keep his life by his own courage and valor, or at the least 
 by his own prudence. Unseen dangers always lay in 
 wait for him. The arrow or tomahawk of the Indian, tin; 
 blow of the grizzly bear, the mis-step on the dizzy or slip- 
 pery height, the rush of boiling and foaming floods, freez- 
 ing cold, famine — these were the most common forms of 
 peril, yet did not embrace even then all the forms in which 
 Death sought" his victims in the wilderness. The avoid- 
 ance of painful reminders, such as the loss of a party of 
 men, was a natural instinct, involving also a principle of 
 self defence — since to have weak hearts would be the 
 surest road to defeat in the next dangerous encounter. 
 To keep their hearts "big," they must be gay, they must 
 not remember the miserable fate of many of their one-time 
 comrades. Think of that, stern moralist and martinet in 
 propriety ! Your fur collar hangs in the gas-lighted hall. 
 In your luxurious dressing gown and slippers, by the 
 warmth of a glowing grate, you muse upon the depravity 
 of your fellow men. But imagine yourself, if you can, in 
 the heart of an interminable wilderness. Let the snow 
 be three or four feet deep, game scarce, Indians on your 
 track : escaped from these dangers, once more beside a 
 camp fire, with a roast of buffalo meat on a stick before it, 
 
 JiUuf fU;') 9rfj 7ol giffhiiqrmj l:»n,fi afi'.n/ 
 
 ill 
 
 >3 
 
 \ I 
 
60 
 
 THE trapper's PHILOSOPHY. 
 
 V * ■ 
 
 and Bevcral of your companions similarly escaped, uid 
 destined for the same chances to-morrow, around you. Do 
 you fancy you should give much time to lamenting the less 
 Ipcky fellov/s who were left behind frozen, starved, or 
 scalped? Not you. You would be fortifying yourself 
 against to-morrow, when the same terrors might lay in 
 wait for you. Jedediah Smith was a pious man ; one of 
 the few that ever resided in the Rocky j\fountains, and led 
 a band of reckltss trappers ; but he did not turn back 
 to his camp whon he SdW it attacked on the Umpqua, 
 nor stop to lament his murdered men. The law of self 
 preservation is strong in the wilderness. "Keep up your 
 heart to-day, for to-moriow yr-u may die," is the raotto 
 of the tra})per. 
 
 In the conference which took place between Smith and 
 Sublette, the former insisted that on recount of the kind 
 services of the Hudson's Bjiy Company toward himself 
 and the three other survivors of his ptaty, they should 
 withdraw their trappers and traders from th^ western side 
 of the niountains for the present, so as not to have them 
 come in conflict with those of that company. To this 
 proposition Sublette reluctantly consented, and orders 
 were issued for moving once more to the east, before go- 
 ing into winter camp, which was appointed for the Wind 
 River Valley. 
 
 In the meantime Joe Meek was sent out with a party to 
 take his first hunt fo': beaver as a hired trapper. The 
 detaclrnient to which he belonged trav'^eled down Pierre's 
 fork, the 4ream which watered the valley of Pierre's Hole, 
 to its junction w^lh Lewis' and Henry's forks where they 
 unite to form the great Snake River. While trapping in 
 this locality the party became aware of the vicinity of a 
 roving band of Biackfeet, and in consequence, redoubled 
 their usual precautions while on the march. 
 
"the devil's own." 
 
 The Blackfeet were the tribe most dreaded in the Rocky 
 Mountains, and went by the name of "Bugs Boys," which 
 rendered into good English, meant "the devil's own." 
 Tliey are now so well Icnown that to mention their charac- 
 teristics seems like repeating a " twice-told tale ; " but as 
 they will appear so often in this narrative, Irving'? account 
 of them as he had it from Bonneville wdien he was fresh 
 from the mountains, will, after all, not be out of place. 
 ■' These savages," he says, " are the most dangerous ban- 
 ditti of the mountains, and the inveterate foe of the trap 
 per. They are Ishmaelites of the first order, always with 
 \vcapon in hand, ready for action. The young braves of 
 the tribe, who are destitute of property, go to war for 
 booty ; to gain horses, and acquire the means of setting 
 up a lodge, supporting a family, and entitling themselves 
 to a seat in the public councils. The veteran warriors 
 light merely for the love of the thing, and the conse- 
 quence which success gives them among their joeople. 
 They are capital horseir.en, and are generally well mounted 
 on short, stout horses, similar to the prairie ponies, to be 
 met with in St. Louis. When on a war party, however, 
 they go on foot, to enable them to skulk through the 
 country with greater secrecy; to keep in thickets and ra- 
 vines, and use more adroit subterfuges and stratagems. 
 Their mode of warfare is entirely by ambush, surprise, 
 and sudden assaults in the night time. If they succeed 
 in causing a panic, they dash forward with headlong fury ; 
 if the enemy is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear, 
 they become wary and deliberate in their movements. 
 
 Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with 
 bows and arrows ; the greater part have American fusees, 
 made after the fashion of those of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany. These they procure at the trading post of the 
 American Fur Company, on Maria's River, where they 
 
 «-,5- 
 
 J' 
 
62 
 
 CIIAHACTEKISTICS OF THE BLACKFEET. 
 
 traftiC tlieir peltries for arms, ammunition, clothing, and 
 trinl'Cts. They are extremely fond of spirituous liquors 
 and tobacco, for which nuisances they are ready to exchange, 
 not merely their guns and horses, but even their wives 
 and daughters. As they are a treacherous race, and have 
 cherished a lurking hostility to the whites, ever since one 
 of their tribe was killed by Mr. Lewis, the associate of 
 General Clarke, in his exploring expedition across the 
 Rocky jMountains. the American Fur Company is obliged 
 constantly to keep at their post a garrison of sixty or sev- 
 enty men." 
 
 " Under the general name of Blackfeet are compre- 
 hended several tribes, such as the Surcies, the Peagans, 
 the Blood Indians, and the Gros Ventres of the Prairies, 
 who roam about the Southern branches of the Yellow- 
 stone and Missouri Rivers, together with some other tribes 
 further north. The bands infesting the Wind River 
 Mountains, and the country adjacent, at the time of which 
 we are treating, were Gros Ventres of the Praines, which 
 are not to be confounded with the Gros Ventres of the 
 Missouri^ who keep aboul: the lower part of that river, and 
 are friendly to the white men." 
 
 " This hostile band ke(ips about the head-waters of the 
 Missouri, and numbers about nine hundred fighting men. 
 Once in the course of two or three j'Cars they abandon 
 their usual abodes and make a visit to the Arapahoes of 
 the Arkansas. Their roi7.te lies either through the Crow 
 country, and the Black Hills, cr through the lands of the 
 Nez Perces, Flatheads, Bannacks, and Shoshonies. As 
 they enjoy their fiivorite state of hostilitj'' with all these 
 tribes, their expeditions are prone to be conducted m the 
 most lawless and predatory style ; nor do they hesitate to 
 extend their maraudings to any party of white men they 
 meet with, following thinr trail, hovering about their 
 
CHAUACTKRISTICS OP THE BLACKFEET. 
 
 63 
 
 camps, waylaying and dogging the caravans of the free 
 traders, and murdering the solitary trapper. The conse- 
 quences are frequent and desperate fights between them 
 and the mountaineers, in the wild defiles and fastnesses of 
 the Itocky Mountains." Such were the Blackfeet at the 
 period of which we are writing ; nor has their character 
 changed at this day, as many of the Montana miners know 
 to their cost. 
 
 '■•i'-'-.' ■ hM 
 
 n 
 
 f; h 
 
 '■ i', 
 
64 
 
 HOW THE BE4.VER IS TAKEN. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 1830. Sublette's camp commenced moving back to the 
 east side of the Rocky Mountains in October. Its conrse 
 was up Henry's fork of the Snake River, througli the North 
 Pass to Missouri Lake, in which rises the Madison fork of 
 tne Missouri River. The beaver were very plenty on 
 Henry's fork, and our young trapper had gresit success in 
 making u]) his packs ; having learned the art of setting 
 his traps very readily. The manner in which the trapper 
 takes his game is as follows : — 
 
 He has an ordinary steel trap weighing five pounds, at- 
 tached to a chain five feet long, with a swivel and ring at 
 the end, which plays round what is called the floaty a dry 
 stick of wood, about six feet long. The trapper wades 
 out into the stream, which is shallow, and cuts with his 
 knife a bed for the trap, five or six inches under water. 
 He then takes the float out the wliole length of the chain 
 in the direction of the centre of the stream, and drives it 
 into the mud, so fast that the beaver cannot draw it out ; 
 at the same time tying the other end by a thong to the 
 bank. A small stick or twig, dipped in musk or castor, 
 serves for bait, and is placed so as to hang directly above 
 the trap, which is now set. The trapper then throws wa- 
 ter plentifully over the adjacent bank to conceal any foot 
 prints or scent by which the beaver would be alarmed, 
 and going to some distance wades out of the stream. 
 
 In setting a trap, several things are to be observed with 
 care : — first, that the trap is firmly fixed, and the proper 
 
WONDERFUL INSTIN'CT OF THE BEAVER. 
 
 65 
 
 distance from the bank — for if the beaver can get on 
 shore with the trap, he will cut off his foot to escape : sec- 
 ondly, that the float is of dry wood, for should it not be, 
 the little animal will cut it off at a stroke, and SAvimming 
 with the trap to the middle of the dam, be drowned by 
 its weight. In the latter case, Avhen the hunter visits his 
 traps in the morning, he is under the necessity of plung- 
 ing into the water and swimming out to dive for the mis- 
 sing trap, and his game. Should the morning be frosty 
 and chill, as it very frequently is in the mountains, diving 
 for traps is not the pleasantcst exercise. In placing the 
 bait, care must be taken to fix it just where the beaver in 
 reaching it will spring the trap. If the bait-stick be 
 placed high, the hind foot of the beaver will be caught : 
 if low, his fore foot. 
 
 The manner in which the beavers make their dam, 
 and construct their lodge, has lor.g been reckoned among 
 the "wonders of the animal creation; and while some 
 observers have claimed for the little creature more sa- 
 gacity than it really possesses, its instinct is still suffi- 
 ciently wonderful It is certainly true that it knows how 
 to keep the water of a stream to a certain level, by means 
 of an obstruction ; and that it cuts down trees for the pur- 
 pose of backing up the water by a dam. It is not true, 
 however, that it can always fell a tree in the direction re- 
 quired for this purpose. The timber about a beaver dam 
 is felled in all directions ; but as trees that grow near the 
 water, generally lean towards it, the tree, when cut, takes 
 the proper direction by gravitation alone. The beaver 
 then proceeds to cut up the fallen timber into lengths of 
 al)out three feet, and to convey them to the ?,[;ot where 
 the dam is to be situated, securing them in their places 
 by means of mud and stones. The work is commenced 
 when the water is low, and carried on as it rises, until it 
 
 P^ 
 
 : iiil 
 
 ! m 
 
 m 
 
 
 'fl 
 
 M 
 
 i .}. 
 
6'6 
 
 BKAVEK DAMS FOUMATION OF MEADOWS. 
 
 has attained the desired height. And not only is it made 
 of the requisite height and strengtli, but its shape is suited 
 exactly to the nature of tlie stream in which it is built. 
 If the water is sluggish the dam is straight; if rapid and 
 turbulent, the barrier is constructed of a convex form, the 
 better to resist the action of the water. 
 
 BEAVEK-1>AM. 
 
 When the beavers have once commenced a dam, its ex 
 tent and thickness are continually augmented, not only by 
 their labors, but by accidental accumulations ; thus accom- 
 modating itself to the size of the growing community. 
 At length, after a lapse of many yoar.s, the water being- 
 spread over a considerable tract, and filled up by yearly 
 accumulations of drift-wood and earth, seeds take root 
 in the new made ground, and the old beaver-dams be- 
 come green meadows, or thickets of cotton-wood and 
 willow. 
 
 The food on which the beaver subsists, is the bark of 
 the young trees in its neighborhood; and when laying up 
 a winter store, the whole community join in the labor of 
 selecting, cutting up, and carrying the strips to their store- 
 
'.:i/. 
 
 IJKAVER LODGES. 
 
 67 
 
 houses under water. They do not, as some writers have 
 affirmed, when cutting wood for a dam strip off the bark 
 and store it in their hjdges for Avintcr consumption ; but 
 only carry under water the stick with the bark on. 
 
 " Tlic bcivver has two incisors and ciffht niolnrs in oach jaw ; and empty hol- 
 lows where the canine teeth iniizht be. 'Ilie upper pair of cuttiiij^' teeth extend 
 far into tlic jaw, with a curve of rather more than a semicircle; and the lower 
 pair of incisors form rather less than a semicircle. Sometimes, one of these 
 teeth gets broken and then the opposite tooth continues growing until it i'orms a 
 nearly complete circle. TJie chewing nmsclc of the beaver is strengthened by 
 tendons in such a way as to give it great power. But more is needed to enable 
 the beaver to eat wood. 'ITie insalivation of the dry iood is provided for ijy the 
 extraordinary size of the salivary glands. 
 
 " Now, every part of these instniments is of vital importance to the l)eavers. 
 The loss of an incisor involves the formation of an obstructive circular tooth ; 
 deficiency of saliva renders the food indigeslibL> ; and when old age comes and 
 the enamel is worn down faster than it is renewed, the beaver is not longer able 
 to cut branches for its support. Old, feeble and poor, unable to borrow, and 
 ashamed to beg, he steals cuttings, and subjects himself to the penalty assigned 
 to theft. Aged beavers are often found dead with gashes in their bodies, show- 
 ing that they have been killed by their mates. In the fall of 18G4, a very aged 
 beaver was caught in one of the dams of the E.»conawba River, and this was the 
 reflection of a great authority on the occasion, one Ah-she-goes, an Ojibwa trap- 
 per : • Had he escapi'd the trap he would have been killed before the winter was 
 over, by other beavers, for stealing cuttings.' 
 
 When the beavers are about two or three years old, their teeth are in their 
 best condition for cutting. On the Upper Missouri, they cut the cotton tree and 
 the willow bush ; aroiind Hudson's Bay and Lake Superior, in addition to the 
 willow tliey cut the poplar and maple, hendock, spruce and pine. The cutting 
 is round and round, and deepest uiK)n the side on which they wish the tree to 
 fall. Indians and trappers liavc seen beavers cutting trees. The felling of a 
 tree is a family affair. No more than a single pair with two or three young 
 ones are engaged at a time. The adults take the cutting in turns, one gnawing 
 and the other watching; and occasionally a yoimgster trying his incisors. 
 The beaviT whilst gnawing sits on his plantigrade hind legs, which keep liini 
 conveniently upright. When the tree begins to crackle the beavers work cau- 
 tiously, and when it crashes down they i)limge into the pond, fearful lest the 
 noise should attract an enemy to the spot. After the tree-fall, comes the lopping 
 of the bi-anches. A single tree may be winter provision f()r a family. Branches 
 five or six inches thick have to be cut into proper lengths for transport, and are 
 then taken home." 
 
 The lodge of a beaver is generally about six feet in di- 
 
6» 
 
 BACHELOR B HALL— TRAPPING IN WINTER. 
 
 araeter, on the inside, and about Imlf as high. They are 
 rounded or dome-shaped on the outside, with very thick 
 walls, and communicate with the land by subterranean 
 ])assages, below the depth at which tiie water freezes in 
 winter. Each lodge is made to accommodate several in- 
 mates, who have their beds ranged round the walls, nnich 
 as the Indian does in his tent. They are very cleanly, 
 too, and after eating, carry out the sticks that have been 
 stripped, and either use them in repairing their dam, or 
 throw them into the stream below. 
 
 During the summer months the beavers abandon their 
 lodges, and disport themselves about the streams, some- 
 times going on long journeys ; or if any remain at home, 
 they are the mothers of young families. About the Ijist 
 of August the connnunity returns to its home, and begins 
 preparations for the domestic cares of the long winter 
 months. 
 
 An exception to this rule is that of certain individuals, 
 who have no families, make no dam, and never live in 
 lodges, but burrow in subterranean tunnels. They are al- 
 ways found to be males, whom the French trappers call 
 "les parasseux," or idlers; and the American trappers, 
 "bachelors." Several of them are sometimes found in 
 one abode, which the trappers facetiously denominate 
 "bachelor's hall." Being taken with l.-ss difficulty than 
 the more domestic beaver, the trapper is always glad to 
 come upon their habitations. 
 
 The trapping season is usually in the spring and au- 
 tumn. But should the hunters find it necessary to con- 
 tinue their work in winter, they capture the beaver by 
 sounding on the ice until an aperture is discovered, when 
 the ice is cut away and the opening closed up. lleturning 
 to the bank, they search for the subterranean passage, trac- 
 \ng its connection with the lodge ; and by patient watching 
 
"UP TO TRAP — FIRST BATTLE WITH BLACKFEET. 
 
 69 
 
 succeed in catching the beaver on some of its journeys 
 between the water and the land. This, however, is not 
 often resorted to when the hunt in the fall has been suc- 
 cessful ; or when not urged by famine to take the beaver 
 for food. ' • i > ^j 
 
 "Occasionally it happens," says Captain Bonneville, 
 " that several members of a beaver family are trapped in 
 succession. The survivors then become extremely shy, 
 and can scarcely be "brought to medicine," to use the 
 trappers' phrase for "taking the bait." In such case, the 
 trapper gives up the use of the bait, and conceals his traps 
 in the usual paths and crossing places of the household. 
 The be?ver being now completely "up to trap," ap- 
 [)roaches them cautiously, and springs them, ingeniously, 
 ^\'ith a stick. At other times, he turns the traps bottom 
 1 1[) wards, by the same means, and occasionally even drags 
 tliem to the barrier, and conceals them in the mud. The 
 trapper now gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shoul- 
 dering his traps, marches off, admitting that he is not yet 
 "up to beaver." r.. ., 
 
 Before the camp moved from the forks of the Snake 
 River, the haunting Blackfeot made their appearance 
 openly. It was here that Meek had his first battle with 
 that nation, with whom he subsequently had many a sav- 
 age contest. They attacked the camp early in the morn- 
 ing, just as the call to turn out had sounded. But they 
 had miscalculated their opportunity : the design having evi- 
 dently been to stampede the horses and mules, at the hour 
 and moment of their being turned loose to graze. They 
 had been too hasty by a few minutes, so that when they 
 charged on the camp pell-mell, firing a hundred guns at 
 once, to frighten both horses and men, it happened that 
 only a few of the animals had been turned out, and they 
 had not yet got far off. The noise of the charge only 
 turned them back to camp. 
 
 I'l.'ji 
 
 
 H 
 
 PA 
 
 m 
 
 iM 
 
70 
 
 ON GUARD — THE TRAPPERS RISK. 
 
 Tn an instant's time, Fitzpatrick was mounted, and com- 
 manding the men to follow, ho galloped at headlong 
 speed round and round the eamp, to drive b.ick such of the 
 horses as were straying, or had been frightened from their 
 pickets. In this race, two horses were shot under him; 
 but he escaped and the camp-horses were saved. The 
 battle now was to punish the thieves. They took their 
 position, as usual with Indian fighters, in a narrow ravine; 
 from whence the camp was forced to dislodge them, at a 
 great disadvantage This they did do, at last, after six 
 hours of hard fighting, in which a few men were wounded, 
 but none killed. The thieves skulked off, through the 
 canyon, when they found themselves defeated, and were 
 seen no more until the camp came to the woods which 
 cover the western slope of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 But as the camp moved eastward, or rather in a north- 
 easterly direction, through the pine forests between Pier- 
 re's Hole and the head-watei's of the Missouri, it was con- 
 tinually harrassed by Blackfeet, and required a strong 
 guard at night, when these marauders delighted to make 
 an attack. The weather by this time was very cold in 
 the mountains, and chilled the marrow of our young Vir- 
 ginian. The travel was hard, too, and the recruits pretty 
 well Avorn out. 
 
 One cold night, Meek was put on guard on the further 
 side of the camp, with a veteran named Reese. But 
 neither the veteran nor the youngster could resist the ap- 
 proaches of " tired Nature's sweet restorer," and went to 
 sleep at their post of duty. When, during the night, 
 Sublette came out of his tent and gave the challenge — 
 " All's well ! " there was no reply. To quote Meek's own 
 language, " Sublette came round the horse-pen swearing 
 and snorting. He was powerful mad. Before he got to 
 where Reese was, he made so much noise that he waked 
 
CLIMMING TWO TREES, 
 
 Til 
 
 him; and Reose, in a loud wliisper, called to him, ' Down, 
 Billy! IndiaiKs!' Sniblotto got down on hia belly mighty 
 (jiiick. ' Whar '? whar V ' he asked. 
 
 " ' They were right there when you hollered so,' said 
 Reese. 
 
 " 'Where is Meek?' whispered Sublette. 
 
 " ' He is trying to shoot one,' answered Reese, still in a 
 whisper. 
 
 " Reese then crawled over to whar I war, and told me 
 what had been said, and informed me what to do. In a 
 few niinutts I crept cautiously over to Reese's post, when 
 Sublette asked me how many Indians had been thar, and 
 I told him I couldn't make out their number. In the 
 morning a pair of Indian moccasins war ibund whar Reese 
 saio the Indians^ which I had taken care to leave there ; 
 and thus confirmed, our story got us the credit of vigi- 
 lance, instead of our receiving our just dues for neglect 
 of duty." 
 
 It was sometime during the fall hunt in the Pine Woods, 
 on the west side of the Rocky Mountains, that Meek had 
 one of his earliest adventures with a bear. Two com- 
 rades, Craig and Nelson, and himself, while out trapping, 
 left their horses, and traveled up a creek on foot, in search 
 of beaver. They had not proceeded any great distance, 
 before they came suddenly face to face with a red bear ; 
 so suddenly, indeed, that the men made a spring for the 
 nearest trees. Craig and Meek ascended a largo pine, 
 which chanced to be nearest, and having many limbs, was 
 easy to climb. Nelson happened to take to one of two 
 small trees that grew close together ; and the bear, fixing 
 upon him for a victim, undertook to climb after him. 
 With his back against one of these small trees, and his 
 feet against the other, his bearship succeeded in reaching 
 a point not far below Nelson's perch, when the trees 
 
 ■ 
 
 I 
 1 
 
 ' 1 
 
 f ' 
 
 
 
 
 'l 
 
 ,\ ■ 
 1' 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 ■I 
 
 1 ■( 
 
 
72 
 
 A DlHAIM'OlNTED BEAU. 
 
 oponod with liis weight, and down ho wont, Avitli a shock 
 tliat liiiriy sliook tlic ^n-oiind. Ihit this bud luck only 
 soeiiied to iiiruriatu the beast, iiiid iij) lio wont n^^niii, with 
 tlie samo result, each time ahnost reaching his oiioniy. 
 With tlio second tumble he was not the least discouraged; 
 but started up the third time, only to be diished once 
 more to the ground when he had attained a certain height. 
 At the third I'all, however, he became thoroughly dis- 
 irusted with his want of success, and turned and ran at 
 lull speed into the woods. t <: •/ 
 
 " Then," says Meek, " Craig began to sing, and T began 
 to laugh ; but Nelson took to swearing. ' yes, you can 
 laugh and sing now,' says Nelson; 'but you war quiet 
 enough when the bear was around.' ' Why, Nelson,' I 
 answered, 'you wouldn't have us noisy before that dis- 
 tinguished guest of yours ? ' But Nelson damned the 
 wild beast ; and Craig and 1 laughed, and said he didn't 
 seem wild a bit. That's the way we hector each other in 
 the mountains. If a man gets into trouble he is only 
 laughed at : 'let him keep out ; let him have better luck,' 
 is what we say." '.?-• 
 
 The country traversed by Sublette in the fall of 1829, 
 was unknown at that period, even to the fur companies, 
 they having kept either farther to the south or to the 
 north. Few, if any, white men had passed through it 
 since Lewis and Clarke discovered the headwaters of the 
 Missouri and the Snake Rivers, which flow from the oppo- 
 site sides of the same mountain peaks. Even the toils 
 and hardships of passing over mountains at this season of 
 the year, did not deprive the tra})per of the enjoyment 
 of the magnificent scenery the region aflbrded. Splendid 
 views, however, could not long beguile men who had 
 little to eat, and who had yet a long journey to accom- 
 
AI.ONE IN THK MOUNTAINS. 
 
 
 plish in cold, and surrounded by (lungers, before reaching 
 
 111! \vnil('rni<^' ground. 
 
 ' I 
 
 III November the ciini|) left Missouri Lake on the east 
 side of the mountains, and crossed over, still northeasterly, 
 oil to the (lallatin fork of the Missouri River, passing over 
 ;i very rough and broken country. They were, in fact, 
 still in the midst of mounlains, being sj)urH of the great 
 Rocky range, and (MiUiilly high aiul rugged. A ])artic- 
 iilarly high mountain lay b(!tween them and the main 
 Yellowstone River. This they had just crossed, Avith 
 ^reat fatigue and dilficulty, and were resting the camp 
 and horses for a few days on the river's bank, when the 
 Blackfeet once more attacked them in considerable num- 
 l)ors. Two men were killed in this fight, and the camp 
 thrown into confusion by the suddenness of the alarm. 
 Cai)t. Sublette, however, got off, with most of his men, 
 still pursued by the Indians. ' " - ■ ' * 
 
 Not so our Joe, who this time was not in luck, but was 
 cut of!' from camp, alone, and had to flee to the high 
 mountains overlooking the Yellowstone. Here was a sit- 
 uation for a nineteen-year-old raw recruit ! Knowing that 
 the Blackfeet were on the, trail of the camp, it was death 
 to proceed in that direction. Some other route must be 
 taken to come up with them ; the country was entirely 
 unknov,m to him ; the cold severe ; his mule, blanket, and 
 gun, his only earthly possessions. On the latter he de- 
 pended for food, but game was scarce ; and besides, he 
 thought the sound of his gun would frighten himself, so 
 alone in the wilderness, swarming with stealthy foes. 
 
 Hiding his mule in a thicket, he ascended to the moun- 
 tain top to take a view of the country, and decide upon 
 his course. And what a scene was that for the miser- 
 able boy, whose chance of meeting with his comrades 
 again was small indeed ! At his feet rolled the Yellow- 
 
 4- 
 
 k 
 
 I 
 
 Hi 
 
A miserabir; night. 
 
 stone River, coursing away through the great plain to the 
 eastward. To the north his eye follows the windings of 
 the Missouri, as upon a map, but playing at hide-and-seek 
 in amongst the mountains. Looking back, he saw the 
 River Snake stretching its serpentine length through I'^.va 
 plains, far away, to its junction with the Columbia. To 
 the north, and to the south, one white mountain rose 
 above another as far as the eye could r'>ach. What a 
 mighty and magnilicent world it seemed, to be alone in ! 
 Poor Joe succumbed to the influence of the thought, and 
 wept. 
 
 Having indulged in this sole remaining luxury of life, 
 Joe picked up his resolution, and decided upon his course. 
 To the southeast lay the Crow country, a land of plenty, 
 — as the mountain-man regards plenty, — and there he 
 could at least live ; provided the Crows permitted him to 
 do 3o. Besides, he had some hopes of falling in with one 
 of the camps, by taking that course. 
 
 Descending the mountain to the hiding-place of his 
 mule, by which time it was dark night, hungry and freez- 
 ing, Joe still could not light a fire, for fear of revealing his 
 whereabouts to the Indians ; nor could he remain to per- 
 ish with cold. Travel he must, and travel he did, going 
 he scarcely knew whither. Looking back upon the terrors 
 and discomforts of that night, the veteran mountaineer 
 yet regards it as about the most miserable one of his 
 life. When day at length broke, he had made, as well as 
 he ' ;iild estimate the distance, about thirty miles. Trav- 
 eling on toward the southeast, he had crossed the Yellow- 
 stone River, and still among the mountains, was obliged 
 to abandon his mule and accoutrements, retaining only 
 one blardsct and his gun. Neither the mule nor himself 
 had broken fast in the last two days. j<ec!ping a south- 
 erly course f<-)r twenty miles more, over a rough and 
 
AWFUL SOLITUDE. A SINGULAR DISCOVERY. 
 
 75 
 
 elevated country, he came, ou the evening of the third 
 (lav, upon a band of mountain slieep. With what eager- 
 iK^ss did he hasten to kill, cook, and eat ! Three days of 
 fasting was, for a novice, v^^uite sutiicient to provide him 
 with an appetite. 
 
 Having eaten voraciously, and being quite overcome 
 with fatigue, Joe fell asleep in his blanket, and slumbei'ed 
 (|uite deeply until morning. With the morning came 
 biting blasts from the north, that made motion necessary 
 if not pleasant. Refreshed by sleep and food, our trav- 
 eler hastened on upon h^s solitary way, taking with him 
 whnt sheep-meat he could carry, traversing the same 
 rough and mountainous country as before. No incidents 
 nor alarms varied the horriljle and monotonous solitude 
 of the wilderness. The very absence of anything to 
 alarm w^as awful ; for the bravest man is wretchedly nerv- 
 ous in the solitary presence of sublime Nature. Even 
 the veteran hunter of the mountains can never e'.itircly 
 divest himself of this feeling of awe, when his single soul 
 comes face to face with God's wonderful and beautiful 
 handiwork. ' 
 
 At the close of the fourth df ^ , Joe made his lonely 
 ciunp in a deep ddile of the mcuntains, where a little fire 
 and some roasted mutton again comforted his inner and 
 outer man, and another night's sleep still farther refreshed 
 his wearied frame. On the following morning, a very 
 bleak and windy one, having breakfjisted on his remain- 
 ing piece of mutton, being desirous to learn something of 
 the piogress he had made, he ascended a low mountain in 
 the neighborhood of his camp — and behold ! the whole 
 country beyond was smoking with the vapor from boiling 
 s[)rings, and burning with gasses, issuirig from small cra- 
 ters, each of which was emitting a sharp whistling sound. 
 
 Waen the first surprise of this astonishing scene had 
 
WM«|»H|I 
 
 76 
 
 A HELL ON EARTH. 
 
 passed, Joe began to admire its effect in an artistic point 
 of view. The morning being clear, with a sharp frost, he 
 thonght himself reminded of the city of Pittsburg, as he 
 had beheld it on a winter morning, a couple of years be- 
 fore. This, however, related only to the rising smoke and 
 vapor ; for the extent of the volcanic region was immense, 
 reaching far out of sight. The general face of the coun- 
 try was smooth and rolling, being a level plain, dotted 
 with cone-shaped mounds. On the sunmiits of these 
 mounds were small craters from four to eight fc. ' in di- 
 ameter. Interspersed among these, on the lev\;i plain, 
 were larger craters, some of them from four to six miles 
 across. Out of these craters issued blue flames and molten 
 })rimstone. 
 
 For some minutes Joe gazed and wondered. Curious 
 thoughts came into his head, about hell and the day of 
 doom. With that natural tendency to reckless gayety 
 and humorous absurdities which some temperaments are 
 sensible of in times of great excitement, he began to solilo- 
 quize. kSaid he, to himself, "I have been told the sun 
 would be blown out. and the earth burnt up. If this in 
 fernal wind keeps up, I shouldn't be surprised if the sun 
 war blown out. If the earth is not burning up over thar, 
 then it is that place tlie old Methodist preacher used to 
 threaten me with. Any way it suits me to go and seo 
 what it's like." 
 
 On descending to the plain described, the eav(h was 
 found to have a hollow sound, and seemed thivateniug to 
 break through. But Joe found the warmth v>f the place 
 most delightful, after the freezing cold of the >nountains. 
 and remarked to himself again, that ''if \t war hell, it war 
 a more agreeable climate than he H;^d hvow in for some 
 time." 
 
 He had thought the couut»'y i^^li^vlt) desolate, as not a 
 
OLD JOE 
 
 -A JOYFUL RECOGNITION. 
 
 77' 
 
 living creature had been seen in the vicinity ; but while 
 he stood gazing about him in curious amazement, he was 
 startled by the report of two guns, followed by the Indian 
 yell. While making rapid preparations for defence and 
 flight, if either or both should be necessary, a familiar 
 voice greeted him with the exclamation, "It is old Joe! " 
 When the adjective "old" is applied to one of Meek's 
 age at that time, it k generally understood to be a term 
 of endearment. " My feelings you may imagine," says the 
 ''old Uncle Joe" of the present time, in recalling the 
 adventure. 
 
 Being joined by these two associates, who had been look- 
 ing for him, our traveler, no longer simply a raw recruit, 
 but a hero of wonderful adventures, as well as the rest of 
 the men, proceeded with them to camp, which they over- 
 took the third day, attempting to cross the high moun- 
 tains between the Yellowstone and the Bighorn Rivers. 
 If Meek had seen hard times in the mountains alone, he 
 did not find them much improved in camp. The snow 
 was so deep that the men had to keep in advance, and 
 break the road for the animals ; and to make their condi- 
 tion still more trying, there were no pro\ in camp, 
 nor any prospect of plenty, for men or animai8, until they 
 should reach the buffalo country beyond the mountains. 
 
 During this scarcity of provision's, some of those amus- 
 ing incidents took place witli which the mountainet.'r will 
 contrive to lighten his own and his comrades' spirits, even 
 in periods of the greatest suilering. One Avhich we have 
 })ermission to relate, has reference to what Joe Meek calls 
 the "meanest act of his life." 
 
 While the men wero starvirig, a negro boy, belonging to 
 Jedediah Smith, by some meaiis was ho fortunate as to 
 have caught a porcupine, which he was roasting l>^ore the 
 lire. Happening to turn his back for a monw-^nt, to '^liji^jfve 
 
wi'wir 
 
 18 
 
 CRAIG S RABBIT. 
 
 something in camp, Meek and Reese snatched the tempt- 
 ing- viuiul and made off* with it, before the darkey discov- 
 ered his loss. But when it was discovered, what a wail 
 went up for the embezzled porcupine ! Suspicion lixed 
 upon the guilty parties, but as no one would 'peach on 
 white men to save a "nigger's" rights, the poor, disap- 
 pointed boy could do nothing but lament in vain, to the 
 great amusement of the men, who upon the principle that 
 ' miseiy loves company," rather chuckled over than con- 
 demned Meek's "mean act." 
 
 Th.ere was a sequel, hoAvever, to this little story. So 
 much did the negro dwell upon the eveat, and the heart- 
 lessness of the men towards him, that in the following 
 summer, when Smith was in St. Louis, he gave the boy his 
 freedom and two ^lundred dollars, and left him in that city; 
 so that it became a saying in the mountahis, that "the nig- 
 ger got his freedom for a porcupine." 
 
 During this same march, a similar joke was played upon 
 one of the men named Craig. He had caught a rabbit 
 and put it up to roast before the fire — a tempting looking 
 morsel to starving mountaineers. Some of his associates 
 determined to see how it tasted, and Craig was told that 
 the Booshways wished to speak with him at their lodge. 
 While he obeyed this snjiposed command, the rabbit w;is 
 spirited away, never more to be seen by mortal man. 
 When Craig returned to the camp-fire, and beheld the 
 place vacant where a rabbit so late was nicely roasting, his 
 passion knew no bounds, and he declared his intention of 
 cutting it out of the stomach that contained it. But as 
 finding the identical stomach which contained it involved 
 the cutting open of many that probably did not, in the 
 search, he was fain to relinquish that mode of vengeance, 
 together with his hopes of a supper. As Craig is still liv- 
 ing, and is tormented by the belief that he knows the man 
 
WHAT THE RCOUT SAW. 
 
 7^ 
 
 who stole his rabbit, Mr. Meek takes this opportunity of 
 assuring him, upon the word of a gentleman, that he is 
 not the man. ' . . 
 
 While on the nr arch over these mountains, owing to the 
 depth of the snow, the company lost a hundred head of 
 horses and mules, which sank in the yet unfrozen dril'ts, 
 and could not be extricated. In despair at their situation, 
 Jedediah Smith one day sent a man named Harris to the 
 top of a high peak to take a vie^^ of the country, and ascer- 
 tain their position. After a toilsome scramble the scout 
 returned. 
 
 "Well, what did you see, Harris?" asked Smith anx- 
 iously. 
 
 "I saw the city of St. Louis, and one fellow taking a 
 drink ! " replied Harris ; prefacing the assertion with a 
 shocking oath. 
 
 Smith asked no more questions. He understood by the 
 man's answer that he had made no pleasing discoveries ; 
 and knew that they had still a weary way before them to 
 reach the plains below. Besides, Smith was a religious 
 man, and the coarse profanity of the mountaineers was 
 very distasteful to him. " A very mild man, and a christ- 
 ian ; and there were very few of them in the mountains," 
 is the account given of him by the mountaineers ther:'>- 
 selves. 
 
 The camp finally arrived without loss of life, except to 
 the animals, on the plains of the Bigliorn River, and came 
 upon the waters of the Stinking Fork, a })ranch of this 
 river, which derives its unfortunate appellation from the 
 fact liiat it flows through a volcanic tract similar to the 
 one discovered by Meek on the Yellowstone plains. This 
 place afforded as much food for wonder to the whole camp, 
 as the former one had to Joe; and the men unanimously 
 pronounced it the "back du«)r to that country which divines 
 
 •' A 
 
80 
 
 4 
 
 AN ALARM — CROW WAR PARTY. 
 
 preach about." As this volcanic district had previously 
 been seen by one of Lewis and Clarke's men, named Col- 
 ter, while on ? solitary hunt, and by him also denominated 
 " hell," there must certainly have been something very 
 suggestive in its appearance. 
 
 If the mountains had proven barren, and inhospitably 
 cold, this hot and sulphurous country offered no greater 
 hospitality. In fact, the fumes which pervaded the air 
 rendered it exceedingly noxious to every living thing, 
 and the camp was fain to push on to the main stream of 
 the Bighorn River. Here signs of trappers became appa- 
 rent, and spies having been sent out discovered a camp of 
 about forty men, under Milton Sublette, brother of Captain 
 William Sublette, the same that had been detached the 
 previous summer to hunt in that country. Smith and Sub- 
 lette then cached their furs, and moving up the river joined 
 the camp of M. Sublette. 
 
 The manner of caching furs is this : A pit is dug to a 
 depth of five or six feet in which to stand. The men then 
 drift froiri this under a bank of solid earth, a,nd excavate a 
 room of considerable dimensions, in which the furs are 
 deposited, and the apartment closed up. The pit is then 
 filled up with earth, and the traces of digging obliterated 
 or concealed. These caches are the only storehouses of 
 the wilderness. 
 
 While the men were recruiting themselves in the Joint 
 camp, the alarm of "Indians!" was given, and hurried 
 cries of "shoot! shoot!" were uttered on the instant. 
 Captain Sublette, however, checked this precipitation, and 
 ordering the men to hold, allowed the Indians to approach, 
 making signs of peace. They proved to be a war party 
 of Crows, who after smoking the pipe of peace with the 
 Captain, received from him a preaent of some tobacco, and 
 departed^ 
 
CHRISTMAS. 
 
 81 
 
 As soon as the camp was sufficiently recrnitod for irav- 
 eliiig, the united companies set out again toward the south, 
 and crossed the Horn mountains once more into Wind River 
 Valley ; having had altogether, a successful fall lunit, and 
 made some important explorations, notwithstanding the 
 severity of the weather and the difficulty of mountain trav- 
 eling. It was about Christmas when the camp arrived on 
 Wind River, and the cold intense. While the men cele- 
 brated Christmas, as best they might under the circum- 
 stances, Capt. Sublette started to St. Louis with one man, 
 Harris, called among mountain ineu Black Harris, on snow- 
 shoes, with a train of pack-dogs. Such was the indomita- 
 ble energy and courage of this famous leader ! 
 
 ^ i 
 
82 
 
 A HUNTERS TAUADISE. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 1830. The furs collected by Jackson's company were 
 cached on the Wind River ; and the cold still being very 
 severe, and game scarce, the two remaining leaders. Smith 
 and Jackson, set out on the first of January with the 
 whole camp, for the buffalo country, on the Powder 
 River, a distance of about one hundred aixd fifty miles. 
 " Times were hard in camp," when mountains had to be 
 crossed in the depth of winter. 
 
 The animals had to be subsisted on the bark of the 
 sweet cotton-wood, which grows along the streams and in 
 the valleys on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, but 
 is nowhere to be found west of that range. This way of 
 providing for his horses and mules involved no trifling 
 amount of labor, when each man had to furnish food for 
 several of them. To collect this bark, the men carried 
 the smooth limbs of the cotton-wood to camp, where, be- 
 side the camp-fire, they shaved off the SAveot, green bark 
 with a hunting-knif transformed into a drawing knife l)y 
 fastening a piece o. wotitl tti Its point; or, incase the 
 cotton-wcod was noi, convenient, the bark was peeled off", 
 and carried to camp in a blanket. Ho nutritious is it, 
 that animals fatten upon it quite as well ns upon oats. 
 
 In the large cotton-wood botionm nn tlH5 YellowKtniio 
 River, it sometimes became necessary to station a doiililo 
 guard to keep the buifalo out of camp, so numerous were 
 they, when the severity of the coUl drove llioni from the 
 prairies to these cotton-wood thickets for subsistence. It 
 
THE TRANSFORMATION IN THE WILDERNESS. 
 
 83 
 
 was, therefore, of double importance to make the winter 
 camp where the cotton-wood was plenty ; since not only 
 did it furnish the animals of the camp with food, but h}' 
 attracting buffalo, made game plenty for the men. To 
 such a hunter's paradise on Powder River, the (amp was 
 now traveling, and arrived, after a hard, cold march, 
 about the middle of January, when the whole encamp- 
 ment went into winter quarters, to remain u,util the open- 
 ing of spring. 
 
 This was the occasion when the mountain-man " lived 
 flit" and enjoyed life: a season of plenty, of relaxation, 
 of amusement, of acquaintanceship with all the compan)'-, 
 of gayety, and of " busy idleness." Through the da}--, 
 hunting parties were coming and going, moi were cook- 
 ing, drying meat, making moccasins, cleaning their arms, 
 wrestling, playing games, and, in short, everything that 
 an isolated community of hardy men could resort to for 
 occupation, was resorted to by these mountaineers. Nor 
 was there wanting, in the appearance of the camp, the 
 variety, and that picturesque air imparted by a mingling 
 of the native element ; for what with their Indian allies, 
 their native wives, and numerous children, the mountain- 
 eers' camp was a motley assemblage ; and the trappers 
 themselves, with their affectation of Indian coxcombry, 
 not the least pictui'esque individuals. 
 
 The change wrought in a wilderness landscape by the 
 arrival of the grand camp was wonderful indeed. Instead 
 of Nature's superb silence and majestic loneliness, there' 
 was the sound of men's voices in boisterous laughter, or 
 Iho busy hum of conversation ; the loud-resounding stroke 
 of the axe ; the sharD report of the rifle ; the neighing 
 of horses, and braying of mules ; the Indian whoop and 
 yell ; and all that not unpleasing confusion of sound which 
 accompanies the movements of the creature man. Over 
 
 I ■■ .til 
 
84 
 
 TUB ENCAMPMENT BY NIGHT. 
 
 the plain, only dotted until now with shadows of clouds, 
 or the transitory passage of the deer, the antelope, or the 
 bear, were scattered hundreds of lodges and immense 
 herds o*" grazing aninuils. Even the atmosphere itself 
 seemed changed from its original purity, and became 
 clouded with the smoke from many camp-fires. And all 
 this change might go as quickly as it came. The tent 
 struck and the march resumed, solitude reigned once 
 more, and only the cloud dotted the silent landscape. 
 
 If the day was busy and gleesome, the night had its 
 charms as well. Gathered about the shining fires, groups 
 of men in fantastic costumes told tales of marvelous ad- 
 ventures, or sung some old-remembered song, or were 
 absorbed in games of chance. Some of the better edu- 
 cated men, who had once known and loved books, but 
 whom some mishap in life had banished to the wilderness, 
 recalled their favorite authors, and recitod passages once 
 treasured, now growing unfamiliar ; or v liispercd to some 
 chosen confrere the saddened history of his eai-lier years, 
 and charged him thus and thus, should ever-ready death 
 sur])rise himself in the next spring's hunt. 
 
 It will not be thought discreditable to our young trap- 
 per, Joe, that he learned to read by the light of the camp- 
 fire. Becoming sensible, even in the wilderness, of the 
 deficiencies of his early education, he found a teacher in 
 a comrade, named Green, and soon acquired sufficient 
 knowledge to enjoy an old copy of Shakspeare, which, 
 with a Bible, was carried about with the property of the 
 camp. 
 
 In this life of careless gayety and plenty, the whole 
 company was allowed to remain without interruption, 
 until the first of April, when it was divided, and once 
 more started on the march. Jackson, or " Davey," as he 
 was called by the men, with about half the company, left 
 
HEAVY LOSB OF lIOIWEa AND TUAPS- 
 
 85 
 
 for the Snake country. The remainder, among" whom 
 was Meek, started north, with Smith lor commander, and 
 James Bridger as })ih)t. 
 
 Crossing the mountains, ranges of which divide the 
 tributary streams of tiie Yellowstone from each other, the 
 iirst halt was made on Tongue River. From thence tlie 
 camp proceeded to the Jiighorn River. Tiirough all this 
 country game was in abundance, — buffalo, elk, and bear, 
 and beaver also plenty. In mountain })hrase, " times 
 were good on this hunt: " beaver packs increased in num- 
 ber, and both men and animals were in excellent condi- 
 tion. 
 
 A large party usually hunted out the beaver and fright- 
 ened away the game in a few weeks, or days, from any 
 one locality. When this happened the camp moved on ; 
 or, should not game be plenty, it kept constantly on the 
 move, the hunters and trappers seldom remaining out 
 more than a day or two. Should the country be consid- 
 ered dangerous on account of Indians, it was the habit of 
 the men to return every night to the encampment. 
 
 It was the design of Smith to take his command into 
 the Blackfoot country, a region abounding in the riches 
 which he sought, could they only be secured without 
 coming into too frequent conflict with the natives : always 
 a »! vi>tful question concerning these savages. He had 
 p ococ'.ed in this direction as far as Bovey's Fork of the 
 Bi' iior.t, when the camp was overtaken by a heavy fall 
 of snow, wjiich made traveling extremely diflicult, and 
 which, when melted, caused a sudden great rise in the 
 mountain streams. In attempting to cross Bovey's Fork 
 during the high water, he had thirty horses swept away, 
 with three hundred traps : a serious loss in the business 
 of hunting beaver. 
 
 In the manner described, pushing on through an uu- 
 
 -1:1 
 
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 i>. 
 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 
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 <^ 
 
 23 W6ST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 

 6^ 
 
86 
 
 ROBBED AND INSULTED BY A BEAR. 
 
 1/' 
 
 known country, hunting and trapping as they moved, the 
 company proceeded, passing another low chain of moun- 
 tains, through a pass called Pryor's Gap, to Clark's Fork 
 of the Yellowstone, thence to Rose-Bud River, and finally 
 to the main Yellowstone River, where it makes a great 
 bend to the east, enclosing a large plain covered with 
 grass, and having also extensive cotton-wood bottoms, 
 wliich subsequently became a favorite wintering ground 
 of the fur companies. 
 
 It was while trapping up in this country, on the Rose- 
 Bud River, that an amusing adventure befel our trapper 
 Joe. Being out with two other trappers, at some distance 
 from the great camp, they had killed and supped oft' a fat 
 bufialo cow. The night was snowy, and their camp was 
 made in a grove of young aspens. Having feasted them- 
 selves, the remaining store of choice pieces was divided 
 between, and placed, hunter fashion, under the heads of 
 the party, on their betaking themselves to their blanket 
 couches for the night. Neither Indian nor wild beast dis- 
 t\irbed their repose, as they slept, with their guns beside 
 them, filled with comfort and plenty. But who ever 
 dreams of the presence of a foe under such circum- 
 stances ? Certainly not our young trapper, v/ho was only 
 awakened about day-break by something very large and 
 heavy walking over him, and snuffing about him with a 
 most insulting freedom. It did not need Yankee powers 
 of guessing to make out who the intruder in camp might 
 be : in truth, it was only too disagreeably certain that it 
 was a full sized grizzly bear, whose keenness of smell had 
 revealed to him the presence of fat cow-meat in that 
 neighborhood. 
 
 " You may be sure," says Joe, " that I kept very quiet, 
 while that bar helped himself to some of my buffalo meat, 
 tuid went a little way off" to eat it. But Mark Head, one 
 
 '■ ,;.:iif!i!u;i v/i^ 
 
 v#- 
 
 
A NOVliL FEHUIAUE. 
 
 8T 
 
 of the men, raised up, and back came the bar. Down 
 went our heads under the bhankets, and I kept mine cov- 
 ered pretty snug, while the beast took another walk over 
 the bed, but finally went off again to a little distance. 
 Mitchel then wanted to shoot ; but I said, ' no, no ; hold 
 on, or the brute will kill us, sure.' When the bar heard 
 our voices, back he run again, and jumped on the bed as 
 before. I'd have been happy to have felt myself sinking 
 ten feet under ground, while that bar promenaded over 
 and around us ! However, he couldn't quite make out our 
 style, and finally took fright, and ran oft' down the moun- 
 tain. Wanting to be revenged for his impudence, I went 
 after hira, and seeing a good chance, shot hhn dead. 
 Then I took my turn at running over him awhile ! " 
 
 Such are the not infrequent incidents of the trapper's 
 life, which furnish him with material, needing little em- 
 bellishment to convert it into thosr- wild tales with which 
 the nights are whiled away around the winter camp-fire. 
 
 Arrived at the Yellowstone with his company. Smith 
 found it necessary, on account of the high water, to con- 
 struct Bull-boats for the crossing. These are made by 
 stitching together bufflilo hides, stretching them over light 
 frames, and paying the seams with elk tallow and ashes. 
 In these light wherries the goods and people were ferried 
 over, while the horses and mules were crossed by swim- 
 mhig. 
 
 The mode usually adopted in crossing large rivers, was 
 to spread the lodges on the ground, throwing on them the 
 light articles, saddles, etc. A rope was then run through 
 the pin-holes around the edge of each, when it could bo 
 drawn up like a reticule. It was then filled with the 
 heavier camp goods, and being tightly drawn up, formed a 
 perfect ball. A rope being tied to it, it was launched on 
 the water, the children of the camp on top, and the wo- 
 men swimming after and clinging to it, while a man, who 
 
 n\ 
 
lippBnir''^ 
 
 88' 
 
 RETURN MARCH RUDE BURIAL SERVICE. 
 
 1 uf 
 
 had the rope in his hand, swam ahead holding on to his 
 horse's niane. In this way, dancing like a cork on the 
 waves, the lodge was piloted across; and passengers as 
 well as freight consigned, undamaged, to the opposite 
 shore. A large camp of three hundred men, and one 
 hundred women and children were frequently thus crossed 
 in one hour's time. 
 
 The camp was now in the excellent but inhospitable 
 country of the Blackfeet, and the commander redoubled 
 his precautions, moving on all the while to the Mussel Shell, 
 and thence to the Judith River. Beaver were plenty 
 and game abundant ; but the vicinity of the large village 
 of the Blackfeet made trapping impracticable. Their 
 ■•./ar upon the trappers was ceaseless ; their thefts of traps 
 and horses ever recurring : and Smith, finding that to re- 
 main w;is to be involved in incessant warfare, without 
 hope of victory or gain, at length gave the command to 
 turn back, which was cheerfully obeyed : for the trappers 
 had been very successful on the spring hunt, and thinking 
 discretion some part at least of valor, were glad to get 
 safe out of the Blackfoot country with their rich harvest 
 of beaver skins. 
 
 The return march was by the way of Pryor's Gap, and 
 up the Bighorn, to Wind River, where the cache was 
 made in the previous December. The furs were now 
 taken out and pressed, ready for transportation across the 
 plains. A party was also dispatched, under Mr. Tullock, 
 to raise the cache on the Bighorn River. Among this 
 party was Meek, and a Frenchman named Ponto. While 
 digging to come at the fur, the bank above caved in, fal- 
 ling upon Meek and Ponto, killing the latter almost in- 
 stantly. Meek, though severely hurt, was taken out alive : 
 while poor Ponto was "rolled in a blanket, and pitched 
 into the river." So rude were the burial services of the 
 trapper of the Rocky Mountains. •- . ' ,f 
 
THE OLD PARTNERS TAKE LEAVE. 
 
 89 
 
 Meek was packed back to camp, along with the furs, 
 whore he soon recovered. Sublette arrived from St. 
 Louis with fourteen wagons loaded with merchandise, and 
 two hundred additional men for the service. Jackson also 
 arrived from the Snake country with plenty of beaver, 
 and the business of the yearly rendezvous began. Then 
 the scenes previously described were re-enacted. Beaver, 
 the" currency of the mountains, was plenty that year, and 
 goods were high accordingly. A thousand dollars a day 
 was not too much for some of the most reckless to spend 
 on their squaws, horses, alcohol, and themselves. For 
 "alcohol" was the beverage of the mountaineers. Liquors 
 could not be furnished to the men in that country. Pure 
 alcohol was what they "got tight on;" and a desperate 
 tight it was, to be sure ! 
 
 An important change took place in the affairs of the 
 Rocky Mountain Company at this rendezvous. The three 
 partners, Smith, Sublette, and Jackson, sold out to a new 
 firm, consisting of Milton Sublette, James Bridger, Fitz- 
 patrick, Frapp, and Jervais ; the new company retaining 
 the same name and style as the old. :^'.v.'.".- -•;,•• fi/ .iij<; 6'ft-3 
 
 The old partners left for St. Louis, with a company of 
 seventy men, to convoy the furs. Two of them never re- 
 turned to the Rocky Mountains ; one of them. Smith, be- 
 ing killed the following year, as will hereafter be related ; 
 and Jackson remaining in St. Louis, where, like a true 
 mountain-man, he dissipated his large and hard-earned 
 fortune in a few years. Captain Sublette, however, con- 
 tinued to make his annual trips to and from the mountains 
 for a number of years ; and until the consolidation of an- 
 other wealthy company with the Rocky Mountain Com- 
 pany, continued to furnish goods to the latter, at a profit 
 on St. Louis prices ; his capital and experience enabling 
 him to keep the new firm under his control to a large 
 
 "i- ^ it 'to TdqqiiX} 
 
 loffree. 
 
 
 hi? 
 
 : If.-* 
 
 
 1 
 
 1; 
 
 
 ! 
 I 
 
 t 
 i 
 
 |i 
 
 m 
 
m^mmr 
 
 90 
 
 ABUNDANCE OF GAME — THE GRIZZLY BEAU. 
 
 I/' 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 1830. The whole country lying upon the Yellowstone 
 and its tributaries, and about the head-waters of theMissouri, 
 at the time of which we are writing, abounded not only in 
 beaver, but in buffido, bear, elk, antelope, and many smaller 
 kinds of game. Indeed the buftalo used then to cross 
 
 the mountains into the valleys about the head-waters of the 
 Snake and Colorado Rivers, in such numbers that at cer- 
 tain seasons of the year, the plains and river bottoms 
 swarmed with them. Since that day they have quite dis- 
 appeared from the western slope of the Rocky Mountains, 
 and are no longer seen in the same numbers on the east- 
 ern side. - 
 
 Bear, although they did not go in herds, were rather 
 uncomfortably numerous, and sometimes put the trapper 
 to considerable trouble, and fright also ; for very few were 
 brave enough to willingly encounter the formidable griz- 
 zly, one blow of whose terrible paw, aimed generally at 
 the hunter's head, if not arrested, lays hi-.ii senseless and 
 torn, an easy victim to the wrathful monster. A gunshot 
 wound, if not directed with certainty to some vulnerable 
 point, has only the eifect to infuriate the beast, and make 
 him trebly dangerous. From the fact that the bear al- 
 ways bites his wound, and commences to run with his 
 head thus brought in the direction from which the ball 
 comes, he is pretty likely to make a straight wake towards 
 his enemy, whether voluntarily or not ; and woe be to the 
 hunter who is not prepared for him, with a shot for his 
 
AN ADVENTURE WITH A GUIZZLY. 
 
 91 
 
 eye, or the apot just behind the car, wheie ccrtiiin death 
 enters. 
 
 In the frequent encounterR of the mountain -men with 
 these huf?c beasts, many aets of wonderful bravery were 
 performed, while some tragedies, and not a few comedies 
 were enacted. 
 
 From something humorous in Joe Mcelc's organization, 
 or some wonderful ''luck" to which he was born, or both, 
 the greater part of his adventures with bears, as with men, 
 were of a humorous complexion ; enal)ling him not only 
 to have a story to tell, but one at which his companions 
 were bound to laugh. One of these which happened dur- 
 ing the fall hunt of 1830, we will let him. tell for himself: 
 
 " The first fall on the Yellowstone, Hawkins and myself 
 were coming up the river in search of camp, when we dis- 
 covered a very large bar on the opposite bank. We shot 
 across, and thought we had killed him, fur he laid quite 
 still. As we wanted to take some tro})hy of our victory 
 to camp, we tied our mules and left our guns, clothes, and 
 everything except our knives and belts, and swum over to 
 whar the bar war. But instead of being dead, as we ex- 
 pected, he sprung up as we come near him, and took after 
 us. Then you ought to have seen two naked men run ! 
 It war a race for life, and a close one, too. But we made 
 che river first. The bank war about fifteen feet high above 
 the water, and the river ten or twelve feet deep ; but we 
 didn't halt. Overboard we went, the bar after us, and in 
 the stream about as quick as we war. The current war 
 very strong, and the bar war about half way between 
 Hawkins and me. Hawkins was trying to swim down 
 stream faster than tne current war carrying tlie bar, and I 
 war a trying to hold back. You can reckon that I swam ! 
 Every moment I felt myself being washed into the yawn- 
 ing jaAvs of the mighty beast, whose head war up the 
 
 '' ■ I 
 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 i M 
 
.yim.'W''^ 
 
 92 
 
 nirXY, DAVKV, AND OLD OABB. 
 
 1/ 
 
 stronm, and his eyes on mo. But tho current war too strong 
 lor him, and swept liim along as fast as it did mo. All this 
 tinio, not a long ono, wo Avar looking for some place to 
 land where the bar could not overtake us. Hawkins Avar 
 the first to make the shore, unknoAvn to the bar, Avhose 
 head AA'ar still up stream ; and he set up such a whooping 
 and yelling that the bar landed too, but on the opposite 
 side. I made haste to folloAV ITaAvkins, Avho had landed 
 on the side of the ri\'er aa'^o started from, either by design 
 or good luck : and then Ave traveled back a mile and more 
 to Avhar our mules war left — a bar on one side of the river, 
 and iwo hares on the other ! " 
 
 NotAvithstanding that a necessary discipline was observed 
 and maintained in the fur traders' camp, there was at the 
 same time a freedom of manner betAvecn the BoosliAvavs 
 and the men, both hired and free, Avhich could not obtain 
 in a purely military organization, nor even in the higher 
 walks of civilized life in cities. In the mountain commu- 
 nity, motley as it was, as in other communities more refined, 
 were some men Avho enjoyed almost unlimited freedom of 
 speech and action, and others who Avere the butt of every- 
 body's ridicule or censure. The leaders themselves did 
 not escape the critical judgment of the men ; and the es- 
 timation in which they Avere held could be inferred from 
 the manner in Avhich they designated them. Captain Sub- 
 lette, whose energy, courage, and kindness entitled him to 
 the adnn'ration of the mountaineers, went by the name of 
 Billy : his partner Jackson, was called Daveij • Bridger, 
 old Gahe^ and so on. In the same manner the men distin- 
 guished favorites or oddities amongst themselves, and to 
 have the adjective old prefixed to a man's name signified 
 nothing concerning his age, but rather that he was an 
 object of distinction ; though it did not always indicate, 
 except by the tone in which it was pronounced, whether 
 that distinction were an enviable one or not. 
 
)o strong 
 
 All tliis 
 
 place to 
 
 kins wiir 
 
 ir, wliosi' 
 
 t'hoopiiii^' 
 
 oppositi; 
 
 i laiidcil 
 
 )y design s 
 
 iiid more 
 
 the river, 
 
 observed 
 van at tlie 
 ooshwavs 
 lot obtain 
 he higher 
 n coramu- 
 'e refined, 
 eedom of 
 ; of every- 
 elves did 
 lid the es- 
 rred from 
 )tain Sub- 
 ed him to 
 3 name of 
 
 Bridger, 
 len distin- 
 es, and to 
 ) signified 
 ic was ail 
 i indicate, 
 
 , whether 
 
 Hi 
 
now SUULliTTK CLIMBED A COTTON WOOD. 
 
 93 
 
 Whoncv(3r a trapper could jj^ct liold of any sort of story 
 rollccling on the c()iira<j^e of a leader, lie was sure at some 
 time to make him aware of it, and these aiK^cdotc.'S were 
 sometimes sharp answers in the mouths of careless camp- 
 keepers. ]irid<;er was once waylaid by Black feel, wiio 
 shot at him, hittiu'j;' his horse in several })lace8. The 
 wounds caused the animal to n^ar and pitch, by reason of 
 which violent movements Bridger dropped his gun, and 
 the Indians snatched it up; after which there was nothing 
 to do except to run, which Bridger accordingly did. Not 
 long after this, as was customary, the leader was making 
 a circuit of the camp examining the camp keeper's guns, 
 to see if they were in order, and found that of one Ma- 
 loney, an Irishman, in a very dirty condition. 
 
 " What would you do," asked Bridger, "with a gun like 
 that, if the Indians were to charge on the camp?" 
 
 — , I would throw it to them, and run the way 
 
 [)e 
 
 ye did," an.swered Maloney, quickly. It was sometime 
 after this incident before Bridger again examined Malo- 
 iioy's gun. 
 
 A laughable story in this way wont the rounds of the 
 camp in this fall of 1830. Milton Sublette was out on a 
 hunt with Meek after buffalo, and they were just approach- 
 ing the band on foot, at a distance apart of about fifty yards, 
 when a lai'ge grizzly bear came out of a thicket and made 
 after Sublette, who, when he perceived the creature, ran 
 for the nearest cotton-wood tree. Meek in the meantime, 
 seeing that Sublette was not likely to escape, had taken 
 sure aim, and fired at the bcpr, fortunately killing him. 
 On running up to the spot where it laid, Sublette was discov- 
 ered sitting at the foot of a cotton-wood, with his legs and 
 arms clasped tightly around it. 
 
 ? " asked Meek. 
 
 you always 
 
 way 
 
94 
 
 A Bl'CCEBHFlTL HUNT. 
 
 "T reckon you took the wrong end of it, that timo, 
 Milton!" 
 
 " I'll l»e , M?ok, if 1 didn't think I was twenty 
 
 feet uj) that tree when you shot;" answered thi; IVi'j^htcned 
 Booshway ; and from that time the men never tired of 
 alludiu'' to Milton's numner of climbiuf' a tree. 
 
 V'-V'N^ 
 
 •IIIK WnONO EM) OF THE TUEE. 
 
 These were some of the mirthful ineidents whieh gave 
 occasion for a gayety which had to be substituted for hap- 
 piness, in the checkered life of the trapper ; and there 
 were like to be many such, where there were two hun- 
 dred men, each almost daily in the way of adventures by 
 flood or field. 
 
 On the change in the management of the Company 
 which occurred at the rendezvous this year, three of the 
 new partners, Fitzpatrick, Sublette, and Bridger, conducted 
 a large party, numbering over two hundred, from the Wind 
 River to the Yellowstone ; crossing thence to Smith's River, 
 the Falls of the Missouri, three forks of the Missouri, and 
 to the Big Blaekfoot River. The hunt proved very suc- 
 cessful ; beaver were plentiful ; and the Blackfeet shy of 
 so large a traveling party. Although so long in their 
 country, there were only four men killed ou* !" the whole 
 company during this autumn. 
 
Mi:i;TiN(i WITH iuvai, traitehs. 
 
 95 
 
 From tlio BliK'kl'oot Klvcr the coinimiiy proceeded down 
 the west side of the mountains to the I'orks of the Snake 
 ilivcr, and iirter liappin^^ for a short time in tiiis locality, 
 continued their march southward us far as 0^'den's Hole, 
 11 small valley amon^ the Bear River Mountains. 
 
 At this place they fell in with a trading and trap])innr 
 party, under Mr. Peter Skceu ()<;'den, (^i .'io Hudson's liay 
 Company. And now commenced that irritating and rep- 
 rehensible style of rivalry witii whi h th<> dillerent com- 
 panies were accustomed to annoy owe anoth'jr. Accom- 
 ,r:.}nig Mr. Ogden's trading jKirty wcrf: ii party of Rock- 
 wiiy Indians, who were from the North, and who were 
 (inployed by the Hudson's lh\y Company, as the Iroquois 
 and Crows were, to trap for them, b'itzpatrick and jisso 
 I'iates camped in the neighborhood of Ogden's company, 
 luid immediately set about endeavoring to })urchase from 
 the Rockways and others, the furs collected ibr Mr. Ogden. 
 Not succeeding by fair means, if the means to such an end 
 could be called fair, — they opened a keg of whiskey, which, 
 when the Indians had got a taste, soon drew them away 
 iVoin the Hudson's Bay trader, the regulations of whose 
 company forbade the selling or giving of liquors to the 
 Indians. Under its influence, the furs were disposed of to. 
 the Rocky Mountain Company, who in this manner obtained 
 nearly the whole product of their year's hunt. This course 
 of conduct was naturally exceedingly disagreeable to Mr. 
 Otrden, as well as unprofitable also; and a feeling of hos- 
 tility grew up and increased between the two camps. 
 
 While matters were in this position, a stampede one day 
 occurred among the horses in OgdenV. camp, and two or 
 three of the animals ran away, and ran into the camp of 
 tlie rival company. Among them was the horse of Mr. 
 Ogden's Indian wife, which had escaped, with her babe 
 liiiiiging to the saddle. . ,.<:•.-•« 
 
 : Li 
 
 i!i 
 
 i i 
 
 ■ "''' 
 
 ^^^^K= ■ 
 
9e 
 
 OGDEN S INDIAN WIFE. 
 
 f 
 
 Not many minutes elapsed, before the mother, following 
 lier child and horse, entered the camp, passing right 
 through it, and catching the now halting steed by the bri- 
 dle. At the same moment she espied one of her com- 
 pany's pack-horses, loaded with beaver, which had also 
 run into the enemy's c;amp. The men had already begun 
 to exult over the circumstance, considering this chance 
 load of beaver as their:?, by the laws of war. But not so 
 the Indian woman. Mounting her own horse, she fearlessly 
 seized the pack-horse by the halter, and led it out of camp, 
 with its costly burden. 
 
 At this undaunted action, some of the baser sort of men 
 cried out "shoot her, shoot her ! " but a majority interfered, 
 with opposing cries of "let her go ; let her alone; she's 
 a brave Avoman : I glory in her pluck ;" and other like 
 admiring expressions. While the clamor continued, the 
 wife of Ogden had galloped away, with her baby and 
 her pack-horse. ' ' Mv-nf ;k; ; .'v,-f.-r 
 
 As the season advanced, Fitzpatrick, with his other part- 
 ners, returned to the east side of the mountains, and went 
 into winter quarters on Powder river. In this trapper's 
 "land of" Canaan" they remained between two and three 
 months. The other two partners. Frapp and Jervais, who 
 were trapping far to the south, did not return until the 
 following year. 
 
 While wintering it became necessary to send a dispatch 
 to St. Louis on the company's business. Meek and a 
 Frenchman named Legarde, were chosen for this service, 
 which was one of trust and peril also. They proceeded 
 without accident, however, until the Pawnee villages were 
 reached, when Legarde was taken ])risoner. Meek, more 
 cautious, escaped, and proceeded alone a few days' travel 
 beyond, who^n he fell in with an express on its way to St. 
 Louis, to whom he delivered his dispatches, and returned 
 
CROW HOKSE-THIEVES. 
 
 97 
 
 to camp, iicconipaniccl only by a Frencliniau named Cabe- 
 iieaii ; thus proving liimself an efficient mountaineer at 
 twenty years of age. i .'/.■,/ ,,, < .,,, , .., ,,, -, ,, ......vwii 
 
 18;U. x\s soon as the spring opened, sometime in 
 March, the whole company started north again, for the 
 blackfoot country. IJut on the night of the tliird day out, 
 llicy fell unawares into the neighborhood of a party of 
 Crow Indians, whose spies discovered the company's 
 horses feeding on the dry grass of a little bottom, and 
 succo(!ded in driving oif about three hundred head. Here 
 was a dilemma to be in, in the heart of an enemy's coun- 
 try! To send the remaining horses after these, might be 
 •'sending the axe after the belv" ;" besides most of them 
 hehingcd to the free trappers, and could not be pressed 
 into the service. 
 
 The only course remaining was to select the best men 
 and dispatch them on foot, to overtake and retake the 
 stolen horses. Accordingly one hundred trappers were 
 ordered on this expedition, among whom were Meek, 
 Newell, and Antoine Godin, a half-breed and brave fellow, 
 who was to lead the party. Following the trail of 
 the Crows for two hundred miles, traveling day and night, 
 on tlie third day they came up with them on a branch of 
 the Bighorn river The trappers advanced cautiously, 
 and being on the opposite side of the stream, on a wooded 
 bluff" were enabled to approach close enough to look into 
 their fort, and count the unsuspecting thieves. There 
 were sixty of them, line young braves, who believed that 
 now they had made a start in life. Alas, for the vanity 
 of human, and especially of Crow expectations ! Even 
 then, while they were grouped around their fires, congratu- 
 lating themselves on the sudden wc alth which had descend- 
 ed u})on them, as it were from the skies, an envious fete, 
 in the shape of several roguish white trappers, was li^ugh,- 
 
7i'P!HB ' I 
 
 f>8 
 
 NIGHT ATTACK ON THE INDIAN FORT. 
 
 I- J' 
 
 ing at them aiid their hopes, from the overhanging bhifi' 
 opposite them. And hy and by, when they were wrapped 
 ill a satisfied shiniber, two of these hiughing rogues, Rob- 
 ert Newell, and Antoine Godin, stole under the very 
 walls of their fort, and setting the horses free, drove them 
 across the creek. . 
 
 The Indians were awakened by the noise of the tramp- 
 ling horses, and sprang to arms. But Meek and his fellow- 
 trappers on the bluff' fired into the fort with such effect 
 that the Crows were appalled. Having delivered their 
 first volley, they did not wait for the savages to recover 
 from their recoil. Mounting in hot haste, the cavalcade 
 of bare-back riders, and their drove of horses, were soon 
 far away from the Crow fort, leaving the ambitious braves 
 to finish their excursion on foot. It was afterwards ascer- 
 tained that the Crows lost seven men by that one volley 
 of the trappers. '''■■■ f-' -^ ' !;' 
 
 Flushed with success, the trappers yet found the back- 
 ward journey more toilsome than the outward ; for what 
 with sleeplessness and fiitiguc, and bad traveling in melted 
 snow, they were pretty well exhausted when they reached 
 camp. Fearing, however, another raid from the thieving 
 Crows, the camp got in motion again with as little delay 
 as possible. They had not gone far, when Fitzpatrick 
 turned back, with only one man, to go to St. Louis for 
 supplies. -.V.-. .. . 
 
 After the departure of Fitzpatrick, Bridger and Sublette 
 completed their spring and summer campaign without any 
 material loss in men or animals, and with considerable 
 gain in beaver skins. Having once more visited the Yel- 
 lowstone, they turned to the south again, crossing the 
 mountains into Pierre'a Hole, on to Snake river ; thence 
 to Salt river ; thence to Bear river ; and thence to Green 
 river, to rendezvous. 
 
A •• MEDICINE MAN CONSULTED. 
 
 99 
 
 It was expected that Fitzpatrick would have arrived 
 from St. Louis with the usual annual recruits and supplies 
 of merchandise, in time for the summer rendezvous ; but 
 after waiting for some time in vain, Bridger and Sublette 
 determined to send out a small party to look for hini. 
 The large number of men now employed, had exhausted 
 the stock of goods on hand. The camp was without 
 blankets and without ammunition ; knives were not to be 
 had; traps were scarce; but worse tlian all, the tobacco 
 liad given out, and alcohol was not ! In such a case as 
 this, what could a mountain- man do'? 
 
 To seek the missing Booshway became not only a dut", 
 but a necessity ; and not only a necessity of the physical 
 man, but in an equal degree a need of the moral and spir- 
 itual man, which was rusting with the tedium of waiting. 
 In the state of uncertainty in which the minds of the com- 
 pany were involved, it occurred to that of Frapp to 'Con- 
 sult a great "'medicine-man" of the Crows, one of those 
 recruits filched from Mr._ Ogden's party by whiskey the 
 previous year. ' ■- -■' '• ..-i^.n c.^^ „. „^f ...„i.. .^^. 
 
 Like all eminent professional men, the Crow chief re- 
 quired a generous fee, of the value of a horse or two, 
 before he would begin to make "medicine." This pecul- 
 iar ceremony is pretty much alike among all the different 
 tribes. It is observed first in the making of a medicine 
 man, «^ e., qualifying him for his profession; and after- 
 wards is practiced to enable him to heal the sick, to 
 prophecy, and to dream dreams, or even to give victory 
 to his people. To a medicine-man was imputed great 
 power, not only to cure, but to kill ; and if, as it some- 
 times happened, the relatives of a sick man suspected the 
 medicine-mau of having caused his death, by the exercise 
 of evil powers, one of them, or all of them, pursued him 
 
100 
 
 HOW MEDICINE MEN ARE MADE. 
 
 ::: 
 
 to the death. Therefore, although it might bo honorable, 
 it was not always safe to be a great "medicine." m 
 
 The Indians placed a sort of religious value upon the 
 practice of fasting ; a somewhat curious fact, when it is 
 remembered how many compulsory fasts they are obliged 
 to endure, which must train them to think lightly of the 
 deprivation of food. Those, however, who could endure 
 voluntary abstinence long enougli, were enabled to be- 
 come very wise and very brave. The manner of maldng 
 a "medicine" among some of the interior tribes, is in cer- 
 tain respects similar to the practice gone through with by 
 some preachers, in making a convert. A sort of camp- 
 meeting i^ held, for several nights, generally about five, 
 during which various dances are performed, with cries, 
 and incantations, bodily exercises, singing, and nervous 
 excitement ; enough to make many patients, instead of 
 one doctor. But the native's constitution is a strong one, 
 and he holds out well. At last, however, one or more 
 are overcome with the mysterious poiver which enters into 
 them at that time : making, instead of a saint, only a su- 
 perstitious Indian doctor. "■' •" "iil.Ji.JO.V: 
 
 The same sort of exercises which had made the Crec 
 man a doctor were now resorted to, in order that he might 
 obtain a more than natural sight, enabling him to see vis- 
 ions of the air, or at the least to endow him with pro- 
 phetic dreams. After several niglits of singing, dancing, 
 hopping, screeching, beating of drums, and other more 
 violent exercises and contortions, the exhausted medicine- 
 man fell off to sleep, and when he awoke he announced 
 to Frapp that Fitzpatrick was not dead. He was on the 
 road; some road; but not the right one; etc., etc. 
 
 Thus encouraged. Frapp determined to take a party, 
 and go in search of him. Accordingly Meek, Reese, 
 Ebarts, and Nelson, volunteered to accompany him. This 
 
THE MISSING TKADEIl FOUND. 
 
 101 
 
 party set out, first hi the direction of Wind River ; but 
 not discovering any signs of the lost Booshwaj in thnt 
 ([uarter, crossed over to the Sweetwater, and kept along 
 down to the North Fork of the Platte, and thence to the 
 Black Hills, where they found a beautiful country full of 
 game; but not the hoped-for train, with supplies. After 
 waiting for a short time at the Black Hills, Frapp's party 
 returned to the North Fork of the Platte, and were 
 rejoiced to meet at last, the long absent partner, Avith his 
 [)ack train. Urged by Frapp, Fitzpatrick hastened for- 
 ward, and came into camp on Powder River after winter 
 had set in. 
 
 Fitzpatrick had a tale to tell the other partners, in ex- 
 l)lanation of his unexpected delay. When he had started 
 for St. Louis in the month of March previous, he had 
 hoped to have met the old partners, Capt. Sublette and 
 Jedediah Smith, and to have obtained the necessary sup- 
 plies from them, to furnish the Summer rendezvous with 
 plerity. But these gentlemen, when he fell in with them, 
 used certain arguments which induced him to turn back, 
 and accompany them to Santa Fe, where they prom- 
 ised to furnish him goods, as he desired, and to procure 
 for him an escort at that place. The journey had proven 
 tedious, and unfortunate. They had several times been 
 aUacked by Indians, and Smith had been killed. While 
 they were camped on a small tributary of the Simmaron 
 River, Smith had gone a short distance from camp to pro- 
 cure water, and while at the stream, was surprised by an 
 ambush, and murdered on the spot, his murderers escaping 
 unpunished. Sublette, now left alone in the business, 
 finally furnished him ; and he had at Ijist made his ^vyay 
 back to his Rocky Mountain camp. 
 
 But Fitzpatrick's content at being once more with his 
 company was poisoned by the disagreeable proximi1:y of a 
 
 <ii 
 
 ' 1 
 
"piWWII !" n. 
 
 102 
 
 EXPEDITION ON SNOW SHOES. 
 
 rival company. If he had annoyed Mr. Ogden of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, in the previous autumn, Major 
 Vandcrburg and Mr. Dripps, of the American Company, 
 J in their turn annoyed him. Tiiis com})}i,ny had been on 
 their heels, from the Platte River, and now were camped 
 in the same neighborhood, using the Rocky Mountain 
 Company as pilots to show them the country. As this 
 was just what it was not for their interest to do, the 
 Hocky Mountain Company raised camp, and fairly ran 
 away from them ; crossing the mountains to the Forks of 
 ihe Snake River, where they wintered among the Nez Per- 
 ces and Flathead Indians. ,,[oy^ 
 
 Some time during this winter, Meek and Legarde, who 
 had escaped from the Pawnees, made another expedition 
 together ; traveling three hundred miles on snowshoes, to 
 the Bitter Root River, to look for a party of free trappers, 
 whose beaver the company wished to secure. They were 
 absent two months and a half, on this errand, and were 
 entirely successful, passing a Blackfoot village in the 
 night, but having no adventures worth recounting. 
 
 'ioff ftr I-:' 'I'l >■(-!;[: ■ fl ■■ -of !: 
 
 hr:r 
 
 ■/U,M.;. ■ 
 
 V'l.f'iU'}: 'j'''i' 
 
 ■"t " -:. ' 'f. 
 
 ■ : ■ r ■: 
 
 •■,'•'■ I 
 
 lU 
 
 .,^ !h-^^ 
 
 .' >,?!''- f-.,* ->.->■;:- 
 
 
 
 ?i 
 
 f ", I 
 
 7n'|-;.^;S;'j^* ; 
 
 ii'T-i/irrt .iuj-j,' ",: 
 
 
 Y^ 
 
 •d •> ! 1 '- 
 
 '■\:^; '■■■■ 
 
 » !•' ;.. V'.':. Iv"*'!- , "i' •■' ■• 
 
1 
 
 '< ANNOYING COMPETITION. 
 
 103 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 1832. In the following spring, the Rocky Mountain Fur 
 Company commenced its march, first up Lewis' Fork, then 
 on to Salt River, thence to Gray's River, and thence to 
 Bear River. They fell in with the North American Fur 
 Company on the latter river, with a large lot of goods, 
 but no beaver. The American Company's resident part- 
 ners were ignorant of the country, and were greatly at a 
 loss where to look for the good trapping grounds. These 
 gentlemen, Vanderburg and Dripps, were therefore in- 
 clined to keep an eye on the movements of the Rocky 
 Mountain Company, whose leaders were acquainted with 
 the whole region lying along the mountains, from the 
 head-waters of the Colorado to the northern branches of 
 the Missouri. On the other hand, the Rocky Mountain 
 Company were anxious to "shake the dust from off their 
 feet," which was trodden by the American Company, and 
 to avoid the evils of competition in an Indian country. 
 But they found the effort quite useless ; the rival company 
 had a habit of turning up in the most unexpected places, 
 and taking advantage of the hard-earned experience of 
 the Rocky Mountain Company's leaders. They tampered 
 with the trappers, and ferreted out the secret of their next ren- 
 dezvous ; they followed on their trail, making them |:ilots 
 to the trapping grounds ; they sold goods to the Indians, 
 and what was worse, to the hired trappers. In this way 
 grew up that fierce conflict of interests, which made it "as 
 much as his life was worth" for a trapper to suffer himself 
 
 Hi 
 
 '^'l 
 
104 
 
 THE CHIEF S DAUGHTER — SUBLETTE WOUNDED. 
 
 ■ 1 ■ :i 
 
 
 r -V 1 
 
 i ' 
 
 
 to be inveigled into the service of a rival company, which 
 about this time' or a little later, was at its highest, and 
 which finally ruined the fur-trade for the American cofli- 
 panics in the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 Finding their rivals in possession of the ground, Bridger 
 and Milton Sublette resolved to spend but a few days in 
 that country. But so far as Sublette was concerned, cir- 
 cumstances ordered differently. A Rockway Chief, named 
 Gray, and seven of his people, had accompanied the camp 
 from Ogden's Hole, in the capacity of trappers. But dur- 
 ing the sojourn on Bear River, there was a quarrel in 
 camp on account of some indignity, real or fancied, which 
 had been offered to the chief's daughter, and in the affray 
 Gray stabbed Sublette so severely that it was thought he 
 must die. •"' ■■•■■'■■■■■ 
 
 It thus fell out that Sublette had to be left behind ; and 
 Meek who was his favorite, was left to take care of him 
 while he lived, and bury him if he died ; which trouble 
 Sublette saved hira, however, by getting well. But they 
 had forty lonesome days to themselves after the camps 
 had moved off, — one on the heels of the other, to the 
 great vexation of Bridger. Time passed slowly 1^ Sub- 
 lette's lodge, while waiting for his wound to heal Day 
 passed after day, so entirely like each other that the mo- 
 notony alone seemed sufficient to invite death to an easy 
 conquest. But the mountain-man's blood, like the In- 
 dians, is strong and pure, and his flesh heals readily, there- 
 fore, since death would not have him, the wounded man 
 was forced to accept of life in just this monotonous form. 
 To him Joe Meek was everything, — hands, feet, physician, 
 guard, caterer, hunter, cook, companion, friend. What 
 long talks they had, when Sublette grew better : what 
 stories they told ; what little glimpses of a secret chamber 
 in their hearts, and a better than the every-day spirit, in 
 
CAPTURED BY SNAKE INDIANS, 
 
 105 
 
 their bosoms, was revealed, — as men will revoiil such 
 things in the isolation of sea-voyages, or the solitary pres- 
 ence of majestic Nature. ' r I ,M,.|.l :'.<.,/ 
 
 To the veteran mountaineer there must have been 
 something soothing in the care and friendshij) of the 
 youth of twenty-two, with his daring dis])osition, his frank- 
 ness, his cheerful humor, and his gixKl looks; — for our Joe 
 was growing to be a maturely handsome man — tall, broad- 
 shouldered, straight, with plenty of flesh, and none too 
 much of it; a Southerner's olive complexion; fnmk, dark 
 eyes, and a classical nose and chin. What though in the 
 matter of dres.^ he was ignorant of the latest styles? — 
 grace imparts elegance even to the trapper's beaver-skin 
 cap and blanket capote. 
 
 At the end of forty days, as many as it took to drown 
 a world, Sublette found himself well enough to ride ; and 
 the two set out on their search for camp. But now other 
 adventures awaited them. On a fork of Green River, 
 they came suddenly upon a band of Snake Indians feed- 
 ing their horses. As soon as the Snakes discovered the 
 white men, they set up a yell, and made an instinctive 
 rush for their horses. Now was the critical moment. 
 One word passed between the travelers, and they made a 
 dash past the savages, right into the village, and never 
 slacked rein until they threw themselves from their horses 
 at the door of the Medicine lodge. This is a large and fan- 
 cifully decorated lodge, which stands in the centre of a vil- 
 lage, and like the churches of Christians, is sacred. Once 
 inside of this, the strangers were safe for the present ; their 
 blood could not be shed there. 
 
 The warriors of the village soon followed Sublette and 
 Meek into their strange house of refuge. In half an 
 hour it was filled. Not a word was addressed to the 
 strangers ; nor by them to the Indians, who talked among 
 
 rr-\ 
 
 I |:? 
 
 i. 
 
 
 i i 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 I i 
 
lOG 
 
 A 80LEMN COUNCIL — 8ENTENCK OF DEATU. 
 
 themselves with a solemn eagerness, while they smoked 
 the medieine pipe, as inspiration in tiieir conncils. (ireat 
 was the excitement in the mitids of tiie listeners, who un- 
 derstood the Snake tongue, as the qu(;stion of their life or 
 death was gravely tliscussed; yet in their countenances 
 appeared only the utmost serenity. To show fear, is to 
 whet an Indian's appetite lbrl)lood: coolness confounds 
 and awes him when anything will. 
 
 If Sublette had longed for excitement, while an invalid 
 in his lonely lodge on B(,'ar River, he longed equally now 
 for that blissful seclusion. Listening for, and hearing 
 one's death-warrant from a band of blood-thirsty savages, 
 could only prove with bitter sharpness how sweet was life, 
 even the most uneventful. For liours the council continued, 
 and the majority favored the death-sentence. But one old 
 chief, called the good Gofia, argued long for an acquittal: 
 he did not see the necessity of murdering two harmless 
 travelers of the white race. Nothing availed, however, 
 and just at sunset their doom was fixed. i , - ,, ,^^ 
 .'.+ The only hope of escape was, that, favored by darkness, 
 they might elude the vigilance of their jailers ; and night, 
 although so near, seemed ages away, even at sundown. 
 Death being decreed, the warriors left the lodge one by 
 one to attend to the preparation of the prelimiriary cere- 
 monies. Gotia, the good, was the last to depart. As he 
 left the Medicine lodge he made sigDs to the captives to 
 remain quiet until he should return ; pointing upwards to 
 signify that there was a chance of life ; and downwards 
 to show that possibly they must die. 
 
 What an age of anxiety was that hour of waiting ! Not 
 a word had been exchanged between the prisoners since 
 the Indians entered the lodge, until now ; and now very 
 little was said, for speech would draw upon them the vigi- 
 lance of their enemy, by whom they desired most ar- 
 dently to be forgotten. 
 
A KESCUIK — UMKNTUL'KEN, TUM MOI'NTAIN L\MH. 
 
 10' 
 
 About dusk thoro was a groat iioiso, and confusion, and 
 clouds of (lust, in the south end of the vilhige. Some 
 thing was going wrong among tlio Indian liorscs. Ininie- 
 (lintoly all tin; village ran to the scene of the disorder, 
 iiiid at the same moment (Jotia, tlie good, appeared at the 
 (luoriof the M(!(licino lodge, l)eekoning the prisoners to 
 tollow liim. With alacrity they sprang up and after him, 
 iuul were led across the stream, to a tliicket on the oppo- 
 site side, where their horses stood, ready to mount, in the 
 charge of a young Indian girl. They did not stop for 
 coni])linionts, though had time been less precious, they 
 might well have bestowed some moments of it in admira- 
 tion of Umentiicken l^nkuisey Undcicatsef/, the Mountain 
 ijumb. Soon after, the beautiful Snake girl became the wife 
 of Milton Sublette ; and after his return to the States, of the 
 subject of this narrative ; from which circumstance the 
 incident above related takes on something of the rosy hue 
 of ronvmce ''■'^^■■' ■ '•ffi)'i/»yi 'imut e\i}i{\,r uii> 'l- •j-f.^r.-.-.-iv . 
 
 As each released captive received his bridle from the 
 delicate hand of the Mountain Lamb, he sprang to the 
 saddle. Bv this time the chief had discovered that the 
 strangers understood the Snake dialect. "Ride, if you 
 wish to live," said he: "ride without stopping, all night: 
 and to-morrow linger not." With hurried thanks our 
 mountain-men replied to this advice, and striking into a 
 gallop, were soon far away from the Snake village. The 
 luxt day at noon found them a hundred and fifty miles on 
 their way to camp. Proceeding without further accident, 
 thoy crossed the Teton Mountains, and joined the com- 
 pany at Pierre's Hole, after an absence of nearly four 
 months. 
 
 Here they found the ubiquitous if not omnipresent 
 American Fur Company encamped at the rendezvous of 
 the Rocky Mountain Company. The partners being anx 
 
 •pol od oJ i^nob 
 
108 
 
 AN OHSTINATK ItlVAL. 
 
 
 ioufi to be freed from this sort of ospionnp^o, and ol)stinatc 
 competition on their own ground, miul(» u proj)()sition to 
 VundiThnri:; and Dripps to divide the country with tlieiii, 
 each company to keep on its own territory. Tiiis ijropo.si- 
 tion was refused l)y the American Company; ))eriiaps be- 
 cause they feared having tlic poorer portion set (^(1' to 
 tliemselves by tlieir mon^ experienced rivals. On this re- 
 fusal, the Uocky Mountain Company determined to send 
 ail express to meet Capt. William riublette, who was ou 
 his way out with a heavy stock of merchandise, and hurry 
 him forward, lest the American Com])any should have the 
 opportunity of disposing of its goods, when the usual 
 gathering to rendezvous began. On this decision being 
 formed, Fitzpatrick determined to go on this errand him- 
 self; which he accordingly did, falling in with Sublette, 
 and Campl)ell, his associate, somewhere near the Black 
 Hills. To them he imparted his wishes and designs, and 
 receiving the assurance of an early arrival at rendezvous, 
 parted from them at the Sweetwater, and hastened back, 
 alone, as he came, to prepare for business. 
 
 Captain Sublette hurried forward with his train, which 
 consisted of sixty men with pack-horses, three to a man. 
 In company with him, was Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth, a history 
 of wdiose fur-trading and salmon-fishing adventures has 
 already been given. Captain Sublette had fallen in with 
 Mr. Wyeth at Independence, Missouri ; and finding him 
 ignorant of the undertaking on which he was launched, 
 offered to become pilot and traveling compajuion, an offer 
 which was gratefully accepted. 
 
 The caravan had reached the foot-hills of the Wind 
 River Mountains, when the raw recruits belonging to both 
 these parties were treated to a slight foretaste of what 
 Indian fighting would be, should they ever have to en- 
 counter it. Their camp was suddenly aroused at midnight 
 
t 
 
 iit/patiuck's auvkntdre in thk vointains. 109 
 
 by the siiniiltiUR'OUH discliarf^o of p:uiis and arrowH, and 
 the IVi^'litful wlioojjs uiul yoils with which the savages 
 make an attack. Nobody was wounded, liowever; but 
 on s|>riii^^iiig to arms, the Indians lied, lal<iii<,^ with them 
 a few liorses wliich their yells had lri^ht(;iied (Voiii tlieir 
 pickets. These niarau(h)rs were Jilaclvrcet, as Captain 
 Siiljlette e.\[)lained to Mr. VVyetli, tlieir nioecasin tracks 
 haviuj^- b(!trayed th(.'m; lor as each tribe has a peculiar 
 wav of making or shaping the moccasin, the ex})ert in 
 liuliaii habits can detect the nationality t)t" an Indian thief 
 by his i'oot-print. After this episode of the night assault, 
 the leaders redoubled their watchfulness, and reached 
 their destination in Pierre's hole about the iirst of July. ^ . 
 
 When Sublette arrived in camp, it was found that Fitz- 
 |)atrick was missing. If the other })!irtner8 had believed 
 liini to be with the Captain, the Captain expected to find 
 liini with them; but since neither could account to the 
 otfier for his non-appearance, much anxiety was fell, and 
 Sublette remembered with apprehension the visit he had 
 received from Blackfeet. However, before any'thing had 
 been determined upon with regard to him, he jnade his 
 appearance in camp, in com])any with two Iroquois half- 
 breeds, belonging to the camp, who had been out on a 
 hunt. 
 
 ritz[)at:ick had met with an adventure, as had been 
 conjectured. While coming up the Green river valley, 
 ho descried a snudl party of mounted men, wliom he mis- 
 took for a company of trappers, and stopped to recon- 
 noitre; l)ut almost at the same moment the supposed 
 trappers, perceiving him, set up a yell that cpuckly unde- 
 ceived him, and conipelh.Ml him to "".^ht. Abandoning 
 liis pack-horse, he put the other io its topmost speed 
 and succeeded in gaining the mountains, where in a deep 
 and dark defile he secretca himself until he judged the 
 
 '7 I 
 
110 
 
 ROUGH SPORTS. 
 
 Indians had left tliat part of the valley. In tliis he was 
 deceived, for no sooner did he emerge again into the open 
 country, than he was once more pursued, and had to 
 abandon his horse, to take refuge among the cliffs of the 
 mountains. Here he renuiined for several days, without 
 blankets or provisions, and with only one charge of am- 
 munition, wliich was in his rifle, and kept for self defense. 
 At length, howevei', by frequent reconnoitoring, he man- 
 aged to elude his enemies, traveling by night, until he 
 fortunately met Avitli the two hunters from camp, and was 
 conveyed by them to the rendezvous. 
 
 All the parties were now safely in. Tiic lonely moun- 
 tain Aalley was populous with the diifei'ent camps. The 
 Rocky Mountain and American companies had their sep- 
 arate camps ; Wyeth had his ; a company of free trappers, 
 fifteen in number, led by a man named Sinclair, from Ar- 
 kansas, had the fourth ; the Nez Perccs and Flatheads, the 
 allies of the Rocky Mountain company, and the friends of 
 the whites, had their lodges along all the streams ; so that 
 altogetlier there could not have beeu less than one thou- 
 sand souls, and two or three thousand horses ;ind mules 
 gathered in this ])lace. 
 
 "When the pie was opened then the birds began to 
 sing." When Captsiin Sublette's goods were opened and 
 distributed among the trappers and Indians, then began 
 the usual gay carousal; and the "fast young men" of the 
 mountains outvied each other in all manner of mad pranks. 
 In the beginning of their spree many feats of horseman- 
 ship and personal strength were exhibited, which were 
 regarded witli admiring wonder by the sober and inexpe- 
 rienced New Englanders under ^Ir. Wj^eths command. 
 And as nothing stimulated the vanity of the mountain- 
 men like an audience of this sort, the feats they performed 
 were apt to astonish themselves. In exhibitions of the 
 
 -^^ 
 
A MAN ON in:E — AX EXPEDITION TO THE SOUTH-WEBT. lii 
 
 kind, the free trappers took the lend, and usually carried 
 off the palm, like the privileged class that they were. 
 
 But the horse-racing, fine riding, wrestling, and all the 
 manlier sports, soon degenerated into the baser exhibi- 
 tions of a ''cra>.y drunk " condition. The vessel in which 
 the trapj)er received and carried about his supply of alco- 
 hol was one of the small camp kettles. "Passing round" 
 this clumsy goblet very freely, it was not long before a 
 yoodly number were in the condition just named, and 
 ready for any mad freak whatever. It is reported by sev- 
 eral of the mountain-men that on the occasion of one of 
 these "frolics," one of their number seized a kettle of al- 
 cohol, and poured it over the head of a tall, lank, red- 
 headed fellow, repeating as he did so the baptismal cere- 
 mony. No sooner had he concluded, than another man 
 with a lighted stick, touched him wish the blaze, vrhen in 
 an instant he was enveloped in flames. Luckily some of 
 the company had sense enough left to perceive his danger, 
 and begaii beating him with pack-saddles to put out the 
 bhize. I>ut between the burning and the beating, the 
 unhappy wretch nearly lost his life, and 'never recovered 
 i'roiu the effects of his baptism by fire. . . , 
 
 Beaver being plenty in camp, business was correspond- 
 ingly lively, there being a great demand for goods. When 
 this demand was supplied, as it was in the course of about 
 three weeks, the different brigades were set in motion. 
 One ^i' the earliest to move was a small party under Mil- 
 ton bubleUe, including his constant companion. Meek. 
 With this company, no more than thirty in number, Sub- 
 lette intended to explore the country to the south-west, 
 then unknown to the fur companies, and to proceed as far 
 as the Humboldt river in tliat direction. 
 
 On the 17th of July they set oat toward the south end 
 of the valley, and having made but about eight miles the 
 
 8 
 
 i'i' 
 
■•ymrw'^!!^ — '^ 
 
 112 
 
 BLACKFEET CARAVAN PEACEFUL OVERTURES. 
 
 first day, camped that niglit near a pass in the mountains. 
 Wyeth's party of raw New Englanders, and Sinclair's free 
 trappers, had johied themselves to the company of Milton 
 Sublette, and swelled the number in camp to about 
 sixty men, many of them new to the business of mountain 
 life. 
 
 Just as the men were raising camp for a start the next 
 i..orning, a caravan was observed moving down the moun- 
 tain pass into the valley. No alarm was at first felt, as an 
 arrival was daily expected of one of the American com- 
 pany's partisans, Mr. Fontenelle, and his company. But 
 on reconnoitering with a glass, Sublette discovered them 
 to be a large party of Blackfeet, consisting of a few 
 mounted men, and many more, men, women, and children, 
 on foot. At the instant th' r were discovered, they set up 
 the usual yell of defiance, and rushed down like a moun- 
 tain torrent into the valley, flourishing their weapons, and 
 fluttering their gay blankets and feathers in the wind. 
 There was no doubt as to the warlike intentions of the 
 Blackfeet in general, nor was it for a moment to be sup- 
 posed that any peaceable overture on their part meant 
 anything more than that they were not prepared to fight at 
 that particular juncture ; therefore let not the reader judge 
 too harshl}^ of an act which under ordinary circumstances 
 would have been infamous, in Indian fighting, every 
 man is his own leader, and the bravest take the front 
 rank. On this occasion there were two of Sublette's men, 
 one a half-breed Iroquois, the other a Flathead Indian, 
 who had wrongs of their own to avenge, and they never 
 let slip a chance of killing a Blackfoot. These two men 
 rode forth alone to meet the enemy^ as if to hold a "talk" 
 with the principal chief, who advanced to meet them, 
 bearing the pipe of peace. When the chief extended 
 his iiand, Antonio Godin, the half-breed, took it, but Q,t the 
 
A BATTLE REINFORCEMENTS. 
 
 113 
 
 same moment lie ordered the Flathead to fire, and the 
 chief fell dead. The two trappers galloped back to camp, 
 Antoine bearing for a trophy the scarlet blanket of his 
 enemy. 
 
 This action made it impossible to postpone the battle, 
 as the dead chief had meant to do by peaceful overtures, 
 until the warriors of his nation came up. The Blackfeet 
 immediately betook themselves to a swamp formed by an 
 old beaver dam, and thickly overgrown with cotton -v,'ood 
 and willow, matted together with tough vines. On the 
 edge of this dismal covert the warriors skulked, and shot 
 with their guns and arrows, while in its very midst the 
 women emploj'^ed themselves in digging a trench and 
 throwing up a breastwork of logs, and whatever came to 
 hand. Such a defence as the thicket afforded was one not 
 easy to attack ; its unseen but certain dangers being suffi- 
 cient to appal the stoutest heart. 
 
 Meantime, an express had been sent off to inform Cap- 
 tain Sublette of the battle, and summon assistance. Sin- 
 clair and his free trappers, with Milton Sublette's small 
 company, were the only fighting men at hand. Mr. Wyeth, 
 knowing the inefficiency of his men in an Indian fight, 
 had them entrenched behind their packs, and there left 
 them to take care of themselves, but charged them not to 
 appear in open field. As for the fighting men, they sta- 
 tioned themselves in a ravine, where they could occasion- 
 ally pick off a Blackfoot, and waited for reinforcements. 
 
 Great was the astonishment of the Blackfeet, who be- 
 lieved they had only Milton Sublette's camp to fight, when 
 they beheld first one party of white men and then an- 
 other ; and not only whites, but Nez Perces and Flatheads 
 came galloping up the valley. If before it had been a 
 battle to destroy the whites, it was now a battle to defend 
 themselves. Previous to the arrival of Captain Sublette, 
 
 '1 'ijS 
 
 ■1 
 
114 
 
 DEATH OF SINCfAIK. 
 
 the opposing forces had kept up only a scattering fire, in 
 which nobody on the side of the trappers had been either 
 killed or wounded. But when the impetuous captain 
 arrived on the battle-field, he prepared for less guarded 
 warfare. Stripped as if for the prize-ring, and armed 
 cap-a-pie^ he hastened to the scene of action, accompanied 
 by his intimate friend and associate in business, Robert 
 Campbell. 
 
 At sight of the reinforcements, and their vigorous 
 movements, the Indians at the edge of the swamp fell 
 back within their fort. To dislodge them was a danger- 
 ous undertaking, but Captain Sublette was determined to 
 make the effort. Finding the trappers generally disin- 
 clined to enter the thicket, he set the example, together 
 with Campbell, and thus induced some of the free trap- 
 pers, with their leader, Sinclair, to emulate his action. 
 However, the others took courage at this, and advanced 
 near the swamp, firing at random at their invisible foe, 
 who, having the advantage of being able to see them, in- 
 flicted some wounds on the party. 
 
 The few white "braves" who had resolved to enter the 
 swamp, made their wills as they went, feeling that they 
 were upon perilous business. Sublette, Campbell, and 
 Sinclair succeeded in penetrating the thicket without 
 jilarming the enemy, and came at length to a more open 
 .s[)ace from whence they could get a view of the fort. 
 From this they learned that the women and children had 
 retired to the mountdns, and that the fort was a slight 
 affair, covered with buffalo robes and blankets to keep out 
 prying eyes. Moving slowly on, some slight accident 
 betrayed their vicinity, and the next moment a shot struck 
 Sinclair, wounding him mortally. He spoke to Campbell, 
 requesting to be taken to his brother. By this time some 
 of the men had come up, and he was given in charge to 
 
SUBLETTE WOUNDED. — A FALSE ALARM. 
 
 115 
 
 be tal^en back to camp. Sublette then pressed forward, 
 and seeing an Indian looking through an aperture, aimed 
 at hini with fatal effect. No sooner had he done so, and 
 pointed out the opening ^jPCampbell, than he was struck 
 with a ball in the shoul(^^, which nearly prostrated him, 
 and turned him so faint that wmpbell took him in his 
 arms and carried him, assisted by Meek, out of the swamp. 
 At the same time one of the men received a wound in the 
 head. The battle was now carried on with spirit, although 
 from the difficulty of approaching the fort, the firing was 
 very irregular. 
 
 The mountaineers who followed Sublette, took up their 
 station in the woods on one side of the fort, and the Nejj 
 Perces, under Wyeth, on the opposite side, which acci- 
 dental arrangement, though it was fatal to many of the 
 Blackfeet in the fort, was also the occasion of loss to 
 themselves by the cross-fire. The whites being constantly 
 reinforced by fresh arrivals from the rendezvous, were 
 soon able to silence the guns of the enemy, but they were 
 not aljle to drive them from their fort, where they re- 
 mained silent and sullen after their ammunition was ex- 
 hausted. 
 
 Seeing that the women of the Nez Perces and Flat- 
 heads were gathering up sticks to set fire to their breast- 
 work of logs, an old chief proclaimed in a loud voice 
 from within, the startling intelligence that there were 
 four hundred lodges of his people close at hand, who 
 would soon be there to avenge their deaths, shonld the 
 whites choose to reduce them to ashes. This harangue, 
 delivered in the usual high-flo-wn style of Indian oratory, 
 either was not clearly understood, or was wrongly inter- 
 preted, and the impression got abroad that an attach was 
 being made on the great encampment. This intelligence 
 occasioned a diversion, and a division of forces ; for while 
 
 *f 
 
.*«f(*ri'fn»| ! 
 
 IIG 
 
 AN EMPTY FORT. 
 
 "4 
 
 a small party was left to watch tlie foi't, the rest galloped 
 in hot haste to the rescue of the m;aii camp. When they 
 arrived, they found it had been a lalse alarm, but it wab 
 too late to return that night, and the several camps re- 
 mained where they were until the next day. 
 
 Meantime the trappers loft to guard the fort remained 
 stationed within the wood all night, firmly believing they 
 had their enemy "corraled," as the horsemen of the 
 plains would say. On the return, in the morning, of their 
 comrades from the main camp, they advanced cautiously 
 up to the breastwork of logs, and behold ! not a buffalo 
 skin nor red blanket was to be seen ! Through the crevi- 
 ces among the logs was seen an empty ^jrt. On making 
 this discovery there was much chagrin among the white 
 trappers, and much lamentation among the Indian allies, 
 who had abandoned the burning of the fort expressly to 
 save for themselves the fine blankets and other goods of 
 their hereditary foes. ^^^ 
 
 From the reluctance displayed by the trappers, in the 
 beginning of the battle, to engage with the Indians while 
 under cover of the woods, it must not be inferred that 
 they were lacking in courage. They were too well in- 
 formed in Indian modes of warfare to venture recklessly 
 into the den of death, which a savage ambush was quite 
 sure to bo. The very result which attended the impetu- 
 osity of their leaders, in the death of Sinclair and the 
 wounding of Captain Sublette, proved them not over 
 cautious. 
 
 On entering the fort, the dead bodies of ten Blackfeet 
 were found, besides others dead outside the fort, and over 
 thirty horses, some of which were recognized as those 
 stolen from Sublette's night camp on the other side of 
 the mountains, besides those abandoned by Fitzpatrick 
 Doubtless the rascals had followed his trail to Pierre's 
 
THE BLACKFOOT WOMAN. 
 
 117 
 
 Hole, not thinking, however, to come upon so large a 
 camp as they found at last. The savage garrison which 
 had so cunningly contrived to elude the guard set upon 
 them, carried off some of their wounded, and, perhaps, also 
 some of their dead ; for they acknowledged afterwards a 
 much larger loss than appeared at the time. Besides Sin- 
 clair, there were five other white men killed, one half- 
 breed, and seven Nez Perces. About the same number 
 of whites and their Indian allies were wounded. 
 
 An instance of female devotion is recorded by Bonne- 
 ville's liistorian as having occurred at this battle. On the 
 morning following it, as the whites were exploring the 
 tliickets about the fort, they discovered a Blackfoot 
 woman leaning silent and motionless against a tree. Ac- 
 cording to Mr. Irving, whose fine feeling for the sex 
 would incline him to put faith in this bit of romance, 
 '■ their surprise at her lingering here alone, to fall into the 
 hands of her enemies, was dispelled when they saw the 
 corpse of a warrior at her feet. Either she was so lost in 
 grief as not to perceive their approach, or a proud spirit 
 kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set up a yell 
 on discovering her, and before the trappers could inter- 
 fere, her mangled body fell upon the corpse which she had 
 refused to abandon." This version is true in the main in- 
 cidents, but untrue in the sentiment. The woman's leg 
 had been broken by a ball, and she was unable to move 
 from the spot where she leaned. When the trappers ap- 
 proached her, she stretched out her hands supplicatingly, 
 crying out in a wailing voice, " kill me ! kill me ! white 
 men, kill me ! " — but this the trappers had no disposition 
 to do. While she was entreating them, and they refusing, 
 a ball from some vengeful Nez Perce or Flathead put an 
 end to her sufferings. 
 
 Still remembering the threats of the Blackfoot chief, 
 
 « 
 
 1 f 
 
 I I 
 
"'f^^rnm^r- 
 
 US 
 
 AN EXPECTED BATTLE. 
 
 that four hundred lodges of liis brethren were advancing 
 on the valley, all the com panics returned to rendezvous, 
 and remained for several days, to see whether an attack 
 should take place. But if there had ever jjeen any such 
 intention on the part of the Blackfoot nation, the timely 
 lesson bestowed on their advance guard had warned them 
 to quit the neighborhood of the whites. 
 
 Captain Sublette's wound was dressed by Mr. Wyeth's 
 physician, and although it hindered his departure for St. 
 Louis for some time, it did not prevent his making his 
 usual journey later in the season. It was as well, per- 
 haps, that he did not set out earlier, for of a party of 
 seven who started for St. Louis a few days after the battle, 
 three were killed in Jackson's Hole, where they fell in 
 with the four hundred wai'riors with whom the Blackfoot 
 chief threatened the whites at the battle of Pierre's Hole. 
 From the story of the four survivors who escaped and re- 
 turned to camp, there could no longer be any doubt that 
 the big village of the Blackfeet had actually been upon 
 the trail of Capt. Sublette, expecting an easy victory 
 when they should overtake hi in. How they were disap 
 pointed by the reception met with by the advance camp, 
 has already been related. 
 
MARCH TO THE HUMBOLDT. 
 
 119 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 1832. On the 23d of July, Milton Sublette's brigade 
 and the company of Mr. Wyeth again sot out for the 
 southwest, and met no more serious interruptions while 
 tliey traveled in company. On the head-waters of the 
 Humboldt River they separated, Wyeth proceeding north 
 to the Columbia, and Sublette continuing on into a coun- 
 try hitherto untraversed by American trappers. 
 
 It was the custom of a camp on the move to depend 
 chiefly on the men employed as hunters to supply them 
 with game, the sole support of the mountaineers. When 
 this failed, the stock on hand was soon exhausted, and the 
 men reduced to famine. This was what happened to 
 Sublette's company in the country where they now found 
 themselves, between the Owyhee and Humboldt Rivers. 
 Owing to the arid and barren nature of these plains, the 
 largest game to be found was the beaver, whose flesh 
 proved to be poisonous, from the creature having eaten 
 of the wild parsnip in the absence of its favorite food. 
 The men were made ill by eating of beaver flesh, and the 
 horses were greatly reduced from the scarcity of grass 
 and the entire absence of the cotton-wood. 
 
 In this plight Sublette found himself, and finally re- 
 solved to turn north, in the hope of coming upon some 
 better and more hospitable country. The sufferings of 
 the men now became terrible, both from hunger and 
 thirst. In the effort to appease the former, everything 
 was eaten that could be eaten, and many things at which 
 
 i il 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 ' I 'I 
 
 
 I 
 
120 
 
 TP^RUIBLE SUFFERING FROM HUNGER AND THIRST. 
 
 the woll-fed man would .sicken with disgust. " I have," 
 says Joe Meek, "held my hands in an ant-hill until they 
 were covered with the ants, then greedily licked them off, 
 [ have taken the soles (jfV my moccasins, crisped them in 
 the fire, and eaten them. In our extremity, the largo 
 black crickets which are found in this country were con 
 sidered game. We used to take a kettle of hot water, 
 catch the crickets and throw them in, and when they 
 stopped kicking, eat them. That was not what we called 
 cant fid'up ko hanch^ (good meat, my friend), but it kept 
 us alive." '''^ 
 
 Equally abhorrent exjiedients were resorted to in order 
 to quench thirst, some of which would not bear mention. 
 In this conditicm, and exposed to the burning suns and 
 the dry air of the desert, the men now so nearly exhausted 
 began to prey upon their almost equally exhausted ani- 
 mals. At night when they made their camp, by mutual 
 consent a mule was bled, and a soup made from its blood. 
 About a pint was usually taken, when two or three would 
 mess together upon this reviving, but scanty and not very 
 palatable dish. But this mode of subsistence could not 
 be long depended on, as the poor mules could ill alFord to 
 lose blood in their famishing state ; nor could the men af- 
 ford to lose their mules where there was a chance of life: 
 therefore hungry as they were, the men were cautious in 
 this matter ; and it genera, ly caused a quarrel when a man's 
 mule was selected for bleeding by the others, 
 
 A few times a mule had been sacrificed to obtain meat; 
 and in this case the poorest one was always selected, so h.'^ 
 to economise the chances for life for the whole band. In 
 this extremity, after four days of almost total abstinence 
 and several weeks of famine, the company reached the 
 Snake River, about fifty miles above the fishing falls, where 
 it boils and dashes over the rocks, forming very strong 
 
 t 
 
THE COUNTRY OF TIIK DlfJGEUH. 
 
 121 
 
 nipids. Here the company camped, rejoiced at the sight 
 (if the ])ure mountain water, but still in want of food. 
 During the inarch a horse's back had become sore from 
 some cause; probal)ly, his rider thought, because the sad- 
 dle did not set well; and, although that particular animal 
 was selected to be sacriliced on the morrow, as one that 
 could best be spared, he set about taking the stulling out 
 of his saddle and re-arranging the padding. While en- 
 gaged in this considerate labor, he uttered a cry of delight 
 and held u}) to view a large brass pin, which had acciden- 
 tally got into the stuffing, when the saddle was nuide, and 
 had been the cause of all the mischief to his horse. 
 
 The same thought struck all who saw the pin: it was 
 soon converted into a fish-hook, a line was spun from horse- 
 hair, and in a short time there were trout enough caught 
 to furnish them a hearty and a most delicious repast. "In 
 the morning," says Meek, "we went on our way rejoicing;" 
 each man with the "five fishes" tied to his saddle, if with- 
 out any "loaves." This was the end of their severest suf- 
 fering, as they had now reached a country where absolute 
 starvation was not the normal condition of the inhabitants; 
 and which was growing more and more bountiful, as they 
 neared the Rocky Mountains, where they at length joined 
 camp, not having made a very profitable expedition. 
 
 It may seem incredible to the reader that any country 
 so poor as that in which our trappers starved could have 
 native inhabitants. Yet such was the fact ; and the peo- 
 ple who lived in and who still inhabit this barren waste, 
 were called Diggers^ from their mode of obtaining their 
 food — a few edible roots growing in low grounds, or marshy 
 places. When these fail them they subsist as did our trap- 
 pers, by hunting crickets and field mice. .-... ". . -.. !,.-.: 
 
 Nothing can be more abject than the appearance of the 
 Digger Indian, in the faU, as he roams about, without food 
 
122 
 
 SOMi: ACCOUNT OF TUB DIOOKKS 
 
 and witliout woapoiiH, save porliaps a bow and arrows, 
 with his (>ye8 fixed upon the ground, looi<ing lor crickets! 
 So des[)ical)le Is he, tliat lie has neitiiHr enemies nor friends; 
 and tlie neighboring tribes do not condescend to notice his 
 existence, unless indeed he should come in their way, 
 when they would not think it nu)re than a mirthful act to 
 put an end to his miserable existence. And so it must be 
 confessed the trappers regarded him. When Sublette's 
 party first struck the Humboldt, Wyeth's being still with 
 tliem, Joe Meek one day shot a Digger who was prowling 
 about a stream where his traps were set. 
 
 " Why did you shoot him V " asked Wyeth. 
 
 "To keep him from stealing traps." 
 
 "Had he stolen any?" 
 
 " No : but he looked as if lie ivas going to ! " 
 
 This recklessness of life very properly distressed the just 
 minded New Englander. Yet it was hard for the trappers 
 to draw lines of distinction so nice as his. If a tribe wa.s 
 not known to be friendly, it was a rule of necessity to con 
 sider it unfriendly. The abjectnoss and cowardice of the 
 Diggers was tl:"fc (Vuit of their own helpless condition. That 
 they had the savage instinct, held in check only by cir- 
 cumstances, '^ -t:-. demonstrated about the same time that 
 Meek shot one, by his being pursued by four of them when 
 out trapping alone, and only escaping at last by the assis- 
 tance of one of his comrades who came to the rescue. 
 They could not fight, like the Crows and Blackfeet, but 
 they could steal and murder, when they had a safe oppor 
 tunity. 
 
 It would be an interesting study, no doubt, to the phi- 
 lanthropist, to ascertain in how great a degree the habits, 
 manners, and morals of a people are governed by their 
 resources, especially by the f^aality and quantity of their 
 
COMl'AltlrtOX OF TUIHKH. 
 
 123 
 
 diet. Hut wlion diet and cliiimte are both taken into con- 
 sideration, the result is strikin*^. 
 
 The cliaracter of the nhickf'eot wlio inhal)itod the pfood 
 hijiitiii^^ fjironiuls on the eastern side of the Rocky Mountains, 
 is already pretty well ^iven. They wore tall, sinewy, well- 
 iiia(k! I'ellows; p^ood horsemen, and f^ood li;:]^litcMS, tiiough 
 iiudinod to marauding iind murdering. They dressed com- 
 fortably and even hantlsomely, as dress goes amongst sava- 
 ges, and altogether were more to be feared tlian despised. 
 
 The rr<>ws resembled the Blackfeet, whose enemies they 
 were, in all tlie before-mentioned traits, but were if pos- 
 sible, even nu)re ])redatory in their habits. Unlike the 
 Mla(;kfeet, however, they were not the enemies of all 
 in.'uikind ; and even were disposed to cultivate some friend- 
 liness with the white traders and trappers, in order, as 
 they acknowledged, to strengthen their own hands 
 against the Blackfeet. They too inhabited a good coun- 
 try, full of game, and had horses in abundance. These 
 were the mountain tribes, • 
 
 (Comparing these with the coast tribes, there was a strik- 
 ing difference. The natives of the Columbia were not a 
 t;dl and robust people, like those east of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, who lived by hunting. Their height rarely exceeded 
 five feet six inches ; their forms were good, rather inclin- 
 ing to fatness, their faces round, features coarse, but 
 complexion light, and their eyes large and intelligent. 
 The custom of flattening their heads in infancy gave them 
 a grotesque and unnatural appearance, otherwise they 
 could not be called ill-looking. On the first advent of 
 white men among them, they were accustomed to go en- 
 tirely naked, except in winter, when a panther skin, or a 
 mantle of other skins sewed together, served to protect 
 them from the cold: or if the weather was rainy, as it 
 generally was in that milder climate, a long mantle of rush 
 
124 
 
 THE INDIANS OF THE LOWER COLUMBIA. 
 
 tA'^ . 
 
 mats, like the toga of the ancient Romans, took the place 
 of that made of skins. To this was added a conical hat, 
 woven of fibrous roots, and gaily painted. 
 
 For defensive armor they were provided with a tunic 
 of elkskin double, descending to the ankles, with holes in 
 it for the arms, and quite impenetrable to arrows. A hel- 
 met of similar ma.,orial covered ib^ head, rendering them 
 like Achilles, invulnerable except in the heels. In this 
 secure r'ress they went to battle in their canoes, notice 
 being first given to the enemy of the intended attack. 
 Their battles might therefore be termed compound duels, 
 in which each party observed great punctiliousness and 
 decorum. Painted and armor-encased, the warriors in two 
 flotillas of canoes were rowed to the battle ground by 
 their women, when the battle raged furiously for some 
 time ; not, however, doing any great harm to either side. 
 If any one chanced to be killed, that side considered itself 
 beaten, ard retired ^^'om the conflict to m.ourn over and 
 bury the estimable and departed brave. If the case was a 
 stubborn one, requiring several days fighting, the oppo- 
 nents encamped near each other, keeping up a confusion 
 of cries, taunts, menaces, and raillery, during the whole 
 night ; after which they resumed the conflict, and contin- 
 ued it until one was beaten. If a village was to be at- 
 tacked, notice Ijeing received, thv-; wo^rien and children 
 were removed : and if the village was beaten they made 
 presents to their conquerors. Such v,'"ere the decorous 
 habits of the warriors of the lower Columbia. 
 
 These were the people who lived almost exclusively by 
 fishing, and whose climate was a mild and moist one. Fish- 
 ing, in which both sexes engaged about equally, was an im- 
 portant accomplishment, since it was by fish they lived in 
 this world ; and by being good fishermen that they had hopes 
 of the next one. The houses in which they lived, instead 
 
THEIR HABITS, CUSTOMS AND DRESS. 
 
 125 
 
 of being lodges made of bufifalo skins, were of a large 
 size and very well constructed, being made out of cedar 
 planks. An excavation was first made in the earth two or 
 three feet deep, probably to secure greater warmth in 
 winter. A double row of cedar posts was then planted 
 firmly all round the excavation, and between these the 
 planks were laid, or, sometimes cedar bark, so overlapped 
 as to exclude the rain and wind. The ridge-pole of the 
 roof Avas supported on a row of taller posts, passing 
 through the centre of the buildin^', and notched to receive 
 it. The rafters were then covered with planks or bark, 
 fastened d^wn with ropes mc.de of the fibre of the cedar 
 bark. A house made in this manner, and often a hundred 
 feet long by thirty or forty wide, accommodated several 
 families, who each had their separate entrance and fire- 
 place ; the entrance being by a low oval-shaped door, and 
 a flight of steps. - ,< 
 
 The canoes of these people were each cut out of a single 
 log of cedar ; and were often thirty feet long and five 
 wide at midships. They were gaily painted, and their 
 shape was handsome, with a very long bow so constructed 
 as to cut the surf in landing with the greatest ease, or the 
 more readily to go through a rough sea. The oars were 
 about five feet long, and bent in the shape of a crescent ; 
 which shape enabled them to draw them edgewise through 
 the water with little or no noise 
 an important quality in hunting th 
 always caught sleeping on the rocks. 
 
 The single instrument which sufT'ced to build canoes 
 and houses was the chisel ; generally being a piece of old 
 iron obtained from some vessel and fixed in a wooden 
 handle. A stone mallet aided them in using the chisel ; 
 and with this simple ''kit" of tools they contrived to 
 manufacture plates, bowls, carved oars, and many orna- 
 mental thinffa ' ^ -' 
 
 this noiselessness being 
 sea otter, which is 
 
126 
 
 INDIAN COMMERCE. 
 
 Like the men of all savage nations, they made slaves of 
 their captives, and their women. The dress of the latter 
 consisted merely of a short petticoat, manufactured from 
 the fibre of the cedar bark, previously soaked and pre- 
 pared. This material was worked into a fringe, attached 
 to a girdle, and only long enough to reach the middle of 
 the thigh. When the season required it, they added a 
 mantle of skins. Their bodies were anointoc"' Avi ' ^ish oil, 
 and sometimes painted with red ochre in inj .' >f the 
 men. For ornaments they wore st"!ngs of glass beads, 
 and also of a white shell found on the northern coast, called 
 haiqua. Such were the ChinooJcs^ who lived upon the 
 coast. 
 
 Farther up the river, on the eastern side of the Cascade 
 range of mountains, a people lived, the same, yet different 
 from the Chinooks. They resembled them in form, fea- 
 tures, and manner of getting a living. But they were 
 more warlike and more enterprising ; they even had some 
 notions of commerce, being traders between the coa 
 Indians and those to the east of them. They too v t: • 
 great fishermen, but used the net instead of fishing '*■■ 
 boats. Great scaffoldings were erect "d every year at the 
 narrows of the Columbia, known as the Dalles, where, as 
 the salmon passed i;p the river in the spring, in incredible 
 numbers, they were caught and dried. After drying, the 
 fish were then pounded fine between two stones, pressed 
 tightly into packages or bales of about ? , >: ' Ired pounds, 
 covered with matting, and corded up for transporij :»» 
 The bales were then placed in storehouses built to re.( ^'" 
 them, where they awaited customers. 
 
 By and by there came from the ''oast other Indians, 
 with different varieties of fish, lo ejvch; »'re for the salmon 
 in the Wish-ram warehouses. And by end by there came 
 from the plains to the eastward, others who had horses, 
 
 '■^K 
 
 5 'iS lied 01 
 
 '■'■'■ lay be 
 
 i! ' 
 
THE INDIANS OF THE PLAINS. 
 
 127 
 
 i •!■ i 
 
 laves of 
 le latter 
 ed from 
 .nd pre- 
 ittached 
 iddle of 
 added a 
 'Ish oil, 
 >'( the 
 3 beads, 
 st, called 
 pon the 
 
 Cascade 
 different 
 orm, fea- 
 ley were 
 lad some 
 he coa 
 too vt • 
 shiii^ •: 
 ar at the 
 v^here, as 
 icredible 
 yring, the 
 pressed 
 pounds, 
 lori .1 ■ ' yp 
 
 Indians, 
 e salmon 
 ere came 
 horses, 
 
 
 
 camiis-root, bear-grass, fur rones, and whatever constituted 
 the wealth of the mountains and plains, to exchange for 
 the rich and nutritious salmon of the Columbia. These 
 Wish-ram Indians were sharp traders, and usually made 
 something by their exchanges; so that they grew rich 
 and insolent, and it was dangerous for the unwary 
 stranger to pass their way. Of all the tribes of the Co- 
 hnnbia, they perpetrated the most outrages upon their 
 neighbors, the passi^-.g traveler, and the stranger within 
 their gates. 
 
 Still farther to the east, on the great grassy plains, wa- 
 tered by beautiful streams, coming down from the moun- 
 tains, lived the Cayuses, Yakimas, Nez Perces, Wallah- 
 Wallahs, and Flatheads ; as different in thrir appearance 
 and habits as their different modes of living would nat- 
 urally make them. Instead of having many canoes, they 
 had many horses ; and in place of drawing the fishing net, 
 or trolling lazily along with hook and line, or spearing 
 fish from a canoe, they rode pell-mell to the chase, or sal- 
 lied out to battle with the hostile Blackfeet, whose country 
 lay between them and the good hunting-grounds, where 
 he great herds of buffalo were. Being Nimrods by na- 
 ture, they were dressed in complete suits of skins, instead 
 of going naked, like their biethren \a the lower country. 
 Being wandering nnd pastoral in their habits, they lived 
 in loc'ges, which could Le planted every night and raised 
 every morning. ..-,.,.- ., ., 
 
 TYSir women, too, were good riders, and comfortably 
 clad in dressed skins, kept white with chalk. So wealthy 
 wore some of the chiefs that they could count their fifteen 
 hundred head of horses grazing on their graGsy uplands. 
 Horse-racing was their delight, and betting on them their 
 besetting vice. For bridles they used horse-hair cords, 
 attached around the animal's mouth. This was sufl&cient 
 
 
 rii: 
 
 H 
 
 
WTf^ 
 
 128 
 
 THE HORSES OF THE PLAINS. 
 
 rj. 
 
 to check him, and by laying a hand on this side or that of 
 the horse's neck, the rider could wheel him in either direc- 
 tion. The simple and easy-fitting saddle was a stuffed 
 deer-skin, Avith stirrups of Avood, resembling in shape those 
 used by the Mexicans, and covered with deer-skin sewed 
 • a wet, so as to tighten in drying. The saddles of the 
 wc were furnished with a pair of deer's antlers for the 
 pomix^ol. 
 
 In many things their customs and accoutrements resem- 
 bled those of the Mexicans, from whom, no doubt, they 
 were borrowed. Like the Mexican, they threw the lasso 
 to catch the wild horse. Their horses, too, were of Mex- 
 ican stock, and many of them bore the brand of that 
 country, having been obtained in some of their not infre- 
 quent journeys into California and New Mexico. 
 
 As all the wild horses of America are said to have 
 spnmg from a small band, turned loose upon the plains 
 by Cortez, it would be interesting to know at what time 
 they came to be used by the northern Indians, or whether 
 the horse and the Indian did not emigrate together. If the 
 horse came to the Indian, great must have been the change 
 effected by the advent of this new element in the savage's 
 life. It is impossible to conceive, however, that the In- 
 dian ever could have lived on these immense plains, barren 
 of everything but wild grass, without his horse. With 
 him he does well enough, for he not only "lives on horse- 
 back," by which means he can quickly reach a country 
 aboundhig in game, but he literally hves on horse-fleeh, 
 when other game is scarce. 
 
 Curious as the fact may seem, the Indians at the mouth 
 of the Columbia and those of New Mexico speak languages 
 similar in construction to that of the Aztecs; and from 
 this fact, and the others before mentioned, it may be very 
 fairly inferred that difference of circuin stances and locali- 
 ties have made of the different tribes what they are. 
 
THE INDIAN S MORAL NATURE. 
 
 129 
 
 As to the Indian's moral nature, that is pretty much alike 
 everywhere ; and with some rare exceptions, the rarest of 
 wliich is, perhaps, the Flathead and Nez Perces nations, 
 all are cruel, thieving, and treacherous. The Indian gos- 
 pel is literally the "gospel of blood"; an "eye for an 
 eye, and a tooth for a tooth." Vengeance is as much a 
 commandment to him as any part of the decalogue is to 
 the Christian. But we have digressed far from our narra- 
 tive; and as it will be necessary to refer to the subject of 
 the moral code of savages further on in our narrative, we 
 leave it for the present. 
 
 After the incident of the pin and the fishes, Sublette's 
 party kept on to the north, coursing along up Payette's 
 River to Payette Lake, where he camped, and the men 
 went out trapping. A party of four, cc nsisting of Meek, 
 Antoine Goclin, Louis Leaugar, and Small, proceeded to the 
 north as far as the Salmon river and beyond, to the head 
 of one of its tributaries, where the present city of Flor- 
 ence is located. While camped in this region, three of 
 the men went out one day to look for their horses, which 
 had strayed away, or been stolen by the Indians. During 
 their absence. Meek, who remained in camp, had killed a 
 fine fot deer, and was cooking a portion of it, when he 
 saw a band of about a hundred Indians approaching, and 
 so near were they that flight was almost certainly useless ; 
 yet as a hundred against one was very great odds, and 
 running away from them would not increase their number, 
 while it gave him something to do in his own defence, he 
 took to his heels and ran as only a mountain-man can run. 
 Instead, however, of pursuing him, the practical-minded 
 braves set about finishing his cooking for him, and soon 
 had the whole deer roasting before the fire. . _ . / 
 
 This procedure provoked the gastronomic ire of our 
 trapper, and after watching them for some time from his 
 
 \i'H 
 
 > I 'I 
 
 ( ' ^4 . : 
 
 n; h 
 
 m 
 
 It - 
 
'y/imtf: 
 
 130 
 
 A TRAP SET FOR A RIVAL. 
 
 hiding-place, lie determined to return and share the feast. 
 On reaching camp again, and introducing hunself to his 
 not over -scrupulous visitors, he found they were from the 
 Nez Perces tribe inhabiting that region, who, having been 
 so rude as to devour his stock of provisions, invited him 
 to accompany them to their village, not a great way off, 
 where they would make some return for his involvntary 
 hospitality. This he did, and there found his three com- 
 rades and all their horses. While still visiting at the Nez 
 Perces village, they were joined by the remaining portion 
 of Sublette's command, when the whole company started 
 south again. Passing Payette's lake to the east, traversing 
 the Boise Basin, going to the head-waters of that river, 
 thence to the Malade, thence to Godin's river, and finally 
 to the forks of the Salmon, where they found the main 
 camp. Captain Bonneville, of whose three years wander- 
 ings in the wilderness Mr. Irving has given a full and in- 
 teresting account, was encamped in the same neighbor- 
 hood, and had built there a small lort or trading-house, 
 and finally wintered in the neighborhood. 
 
 An exchange of men now took place, and Meek went 
 east of the mountains under Fitzpatrick and Bridger. 
 When these famous leaders had first set out for the sum- 
 mer hunt, after the battle of Pierre's Hole, their course 
 had been to the head-waters of the Missouri, to the Yeh 
 lowstone lake, and the forks of the Missouri, some of the 
 best beaver grounds known to them. But finding their 
 steps dogged by the American Fur Company, and not 
 wishing to be made use of as pilots by their rivals, they 
 had flitted about for a time like an Arab camp, in the en- 
 deavor to blind them, and finally returned to the west side 
 of the mountains, where JVTeek fell in with them. 
 
 Exasperated by the perseverance of the American 
 Company, they had come to the determination of leading 
 
A CRUEL DEVICE. 
 
 131 
 
 them a march which should tiro them of the practice of 
 k'eeping at their heels. They therefore planned an expe- 
 dition, from which they expected no other profit than that 
 of hakiiig off their rivals. Taking no pains to conceal 
 then- expedition, they rather held out the bait to the 
 American Company, who, unsuspicious of their purpose, 
 took it readily enough. They led them along across the 
 mountains, and on to the head-waters of the Missouri. 
 Here, packing up their traps, they tarried not for beaver, 
 nor even tried to avoid the Blackfeet, but pushed right 
 ahead, into the very heart of their country, keeping away 
 from any part of it where beaver might be found, and 
 going away on beyond, to the elevated plains, quite des- 
 titute of that small but dcbirable game, but followed 
 through it by their rivals. 
 
 However justifiable on the part of trade this move- 
 ment of the Rocky Mountain Company might have been, 
 it was a cruel device as concerned the inexperienced lead- 
 ers of the other company, one of whom lost his life in 
 consequence. Not knowing of their danger, they only 
 discovered their situation in the midst of Blackfeet, 
 after discovering the ruse that had been played upon 
 them. They then halted, and being determined to find 
 beaver, divided their forces and set out in opposite direc- 
 tions for that purpose. Unhappily, Major Vanderburg 
 took the worst possible direction for a small party to take, 
 and had not traveled far when his scouts came upon the 
 still smoking camp-fires of a band of Indians who were 
 returning from a buffalo hunt. From the "signs" left 
 behind them, the scout judged that they had become 
 aware of the near neighborhood of white men, and from 
 their having stolen off, he judged that they were only 
 gone for others of their nation, or to prepare for war. 
 
 But Vanderburg, with the fool-hardiness of one not 
 
 m 
 
 11 
 
132 
 
 AN AMBUSH — DEATH OF VAjnDEIIBURG. 
 
 "up to Blackfect," determined to ascertain for himself 
 wluit there was to fear ; and taking with him half a score 
 of his followers, put himself upon their trail, galloping 
 hard after them, until, in his rashness, he found himself 
 being led through a dark and deep defile, rendered darker 
 and gloomier by overhanging trees. In the midst of this 
 dismal place, just where an ambush might have been ex- 
 pected, he was attacked by a horde of savages, who 
 rushed upon his little party with whoops and frantic ges- 
 tures, intended not only to appal the riders, but to frighten 
 their horses, and thus make surer their bloody butchery. 
 It was but the work of a few minutes to consummate their 
 demoniac purpose. Yanderburg's horse was shot down 
 at once, falling on his rider, whom the Indians quickly 
 dispatched. One or two of the men were instantly toma- 
 hawked, and the others wounded while making their es- 
 cape to camp. The remainder of Yanderburg's company, 
 on learning the fate of their leader, whose place there 
 was no one to fill, immediately raised camp and fled with 
 all haste to- the encampment of the Pends Oreille Indians 
 for assistance. Here they waited, while those Indians, a 
 friendly tribe, made an eiFort to recover the body of their 
 unfortunate leader ; but the remains were never recovered, 
 probably having first been fiendishly mutilated, and then 
 left to the wolves. 
 
 Fitzpatrick and Bridger, finding they were no longer 
 pursued by their rivals, as the season advanced began to 
 retrace their steps toward the good trapping grounds. 
 Being used to Indian wiles and Blackfeet mn' 'udings and 
 ambushes, they traveled in close columns, and never 
 camped or turned out their horses to feed, without the 
 
 greatest caution. 
 
 Morning and evening scouts were sent 
 
 out to beat up every thicket or ravine that seemed to 
 offer concealment to a foe, and the horizon was searched 
 
AN AFFRAY — THE WOMAN INTERPRETER. 
 
 133 
 
 in every (lircction for signs of an Indian attack. The 
 complete salbty of the camp being settled almost beyond 
 a peradventure, the horses were turned loose, though 
 never left unguarded. 
 
 It was not likely, however, that the camp should pass 
 through the Blackfoot country without any encounters 
 with that nation. When it had reached the head-waters 
 of the Missouri, on the return march, a party of trappers, 
 including Meek, disco- 'red a small band of Indians in a 
 bend of the lake, and thinking the opportunity for sport 
 a good one, commenced firing on them. The Indians, 
 who were without guns, took to the lake for refuge, while 
 the trappers entertained themselves with the rare amuse- 
 ment of keeping them in the water, by shooting at them 
 occasionally. But it chanced that these were only a few 
 stragglers from th^ main Blackfoot camp, which soon 
 came up and put an end to the sport by putting f.hc trap- 
 pers to flight in their turn. The trappers fled to camp, 
 the Indians pursuing, until the latter discovered that they 
 had been led almost into the large camp of the whites. 
 This occasioned a halt, the Blackfeet not caring to engage 
 with superior numbers. 
 
 In the p'tuse which ensued, one of the chiefs came out 
 into th-^ open space, bearing the peace pipe, and Bridger 
 also advanced to meet him, but carrying his gun across 
 the pommel of his saddle. He was accompanied by a 
 young Blackfoot woman, wife of a Mexican in his service, 
 as interpreter. The chief extended his hand in token of 
 amity ; but at that moment Bridger saw a movement of 
 the chiefs, which he took to mean treachery, and cocked 
 his rifle. But the lock had no sooner clicked than the 
 chief, a large and powerful man, seized the gun and 
 turned the muzzle downward, when the contents were 
 discharged into the earth. With another dexterous move- 
 
134 
 
 BRAVERY OF HEIt HUSBAND — HAPPY FINALE, 
 
 ment ho wrested it from Bi-idj^er's hand, and struck him 
 with it, i'eiliii<^ liim to the ground. In an instant all was 
 confusion. The noise of whoops, yells, of fire-arms, and 
 of running hither and thither, gathered like a tempest. 
 At the lirst burst of this demoniac blast, the horse of the 
 interpreter became frightened, and, by a sudden move- 
 ment, unhorsed her, wheeling and running back to camp. 
 In the melee which now ensued, the woman was carried 
 off by the Blackfeet, and Bridger was wounded twice in 
 the back with arrows. A chance medley fight now ensued, 
 continuing until night put a period to the contest. So 
 well matched were the opposing forces, that each fought 
 with caution firing from the cover of thickets and from 
 
 'O 
 
 behind rocks, neither side doing much execution. The 
 loss on the part of the Blackfeet was nine warriors, and 
 on that of the whites, three men and six horses. 
 
 As for the young Blackfoot woman, whose people re- 
 tained her a prisoner, her lamentations and struggles to 
 escape and return to her husband and child so wrought 
 upon the young Mexican, who was the pained witness of 
 her grief, that he took the babe in his arms, and galloped 
 with it into the heart of the Blackfoot camp, to place it 
 in the arms of the distracted mother. This daring act, 
 which all who witnessed believed would cause his death, 
 so excited the admiration of the Blackfoot chief, that he 
 gave him permission to return, unharmed, to his own 
 camp. Encouraged by this clemency, Loretta begged to 
 have his wife restored to him, relating how he had res- 
 cued her, a prisoner, from the Crows, who would certainly 
 have tortured her to death. The wife added her entreat- 
 ies to his, but the chief sternly bade him depart, and as 
 sternly reminded the Blackfoot girl' that she belonged to 
 his tribe, and could not go with his enemies. Loretta 
 
THE MOUNTAIN LAMB AND HER CHH.D. 
 
 135 
 
 iged to 
 joretta 
 
 was therefore compelled to abandon his wife and child, 
 and return to camp. 
 
 It is, however, gratifying to know that so true an in- 
 stance of aOection in savage life was linully rinvarded ; 
 and that when the two rival fur companies united, as they 
 (hd in the following year, Loretta was p(Mmitted to go 
 to the American Company's fort on the Missouri, in the 
 Blackfoot country, where he was employed as interpreter, 
 assisted by his Blackfoot wife. 
 
 Such were some of the incidents that signalized this 
 campaign in the wilderness, where two equally persistent 
 rivals were trying to outwit one another. Subse(]uently, 
 when several years of rivalry had somewhat exiiausted 
 both, the Rocky Mountain and American companies con- 
 solidated, using all their strategy thereafter against the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, and any new rival that chanced 
 to enter their hunting grounds. 
 
 After the fight above described, the Blackfcet drew off 
 in the night, showing no disposition to try their skill next 
 day against such experienced Indian fighters as Bridger's 
 brigade had shown themselves. The company continued 
 in the Missouri country, trapping and taking many beaver, 
 until it reached the Beaver Head Valley, on the head- 
 waters of the Jefferson fork of the Missouri. 'ir;e the 
 lateness of the season compelled a return to winter-quar- 
 ters, and by Christmas all the wanderers were gathered 
 into camp at the forks of the Snake River. 
 
 1833. In the latter part of January it became neces- 
 sary to move to the junction of the Portneuf to subsist 
 the animals. The main body of the camp had gone on 
 in advance, while some few, with pack horses, or women 
 with children, were scattered along the trail. Meek, with 
 five others, had been left behind to gather up some horses 
 that had strayed. When about a half day's journey from 
 
 'f 
 
 I •• 
 
136 
 
 INTENSE COLU — NOUTllEUN LIUIllU 
 
 camp, ho overtook ITmcNfuclm, the Mountain Lamb, now 
 the wife of Milton Sublette, with her child, on horseback. 
 The weather was terribly cuhl, and seeming to grow 
 cohler. The naked plains a Horded no slielter from the 
 piercing winds, and the air I'airly gUttered with frost, 
 Poor Umentueken was freezing, but more troubled about 
 her babe than herself The camp was far ahead, with all 
 the extra blankets, and the prospect was imminent that 
 they would jjcrish. Our gallant trapper had thought 
 himself very cold until this moment, but what were his 
 sulferings com])ared to those of the Mountain Lamb and 
 her little Laml)kin'? Without an instant's 1 itatiou, he 
 divested himself of his blanket capote, whic wrappedi 
 
 rourd the mother and child, and urged her to hasteu to 
 camp. For himself, he could not hasten, as he had the 
 horses in charge, but all that fearful afternoon rode naked 
 above the waist, exposed to the wind, and the line, dry, 
 icy hail, which filled the air as with diamond needles, to 
 pierce the skin ; and, probably, to the fact that the hail 
 was so stinging, was owing the fact that his blood did not 
 couQ-eal. 
 
 O 
 
 " what a day was that! "said Meek to the writer; 
 " why, the air war thick with fine, sharp hail, and the sun 
 shining, too ! not one sun only, but three suns — there 
 were three suns ! And when night came on, the northern 
 lights blazed up the sky ! It was the most beautiful sight 
 I ever saw. That is the country for northern lights! " 
 
 When some surprise was expressed that he should have 
 been obliged to expose his naked skin to the weather, in 
 order to save Umentueken — " In the mountains," he an- 
 swered, "we do not have many garments. Buckskin 
 breeches, a blanket capote, and a beaver skin cap makes 
 up our rig." .^ , ,. .; ;,;r,- , :.:^ev:r. 55 ' 
 
SCARCITY OF FUEL — TUREATENKU UV FAMINE. 
 
 U7 
 
 " You do not ncod a liumdress, tlicu V Hut with such 
 dotliiiig how could you keep f'roc of vuriuiu?" 
 
 "We didu't ulwiiys do tluit. l)o you want to know 
 lioW we got rid of lico iu the niountaius V Wo just took 
 otV our ch)thes and kid thoiu ou an ant-hill, and you 
 oiif^'lit to see how the ants would carry oU' the lice ! " 
 
 Hut to return to our hero, frozen, or nearly ko. When 
 he reached camp at night, so desperate was his condition 
 that the men had to roll him and rub him in the snow for 
 some time before allowing him to a[)proach the lire. But 
 Uinentucken was saved, and he bee;' le heroic in her eyes. 
 Whether it was the glory acquired by the gallant act just 
 ' recorded, or whether our hero had now arrived at an age 
 when the tender jiassion has strongest sway, the writer is 
 iuii)rej)ared to allirm : for your mountain-man is shy of 
 revealing his past gallantries ; but from this time on, there 
 arc evidences of considerable susceptibility to the charms 
 of the dusky beauties of the mountains and the plains. 
 
 The cold of this winter was very severe, insomuch that 
 men and mules were frozen to death. " The frost," says 
 Meek, "used to hang from the roofs of our lodges in the 
 morning, on first waking, in skeins two feet long, and our 
 blankets and whiskers were white with it. But we trap- 
 pers laid still, and called the camp-keepers to make a lire, 
 and in our close lodges it was soon warm enough. 
 
 " The Indians suffered very much. Fuel war scarce on 
 the Snake River, and but little fire could be afibrded — 
 just sufficient for the children and their mothers to get 
 warm by, for the fire was fed only with buftiilo fat torn in 
 strips, which blazed up quickly and did not last long. 
 Many a time I have stood off, looking at the fire, but not 
 venturing to approach, when a chief would say, ' Are you 
 cold, my friend? come to the fire' — so kind are these 
 Nez Perces and Flatheads." . 
 
 ■iiUJafi 
 
 .■■I ji] 
 
 'i* 
 
 \ lii 
 
 ! f1 
 
 I 1 
 
 n 
 
 & 
 uti 
 
 1 i'l 
 
^fmm 
 
 138 
 
 THE DEN OF GRIZZLYS PUTNAM OUTDONE. 
 
 The cold was not the only enemy in camp that winter, 
 but famine threatened them. The buffalo had been early 
 driven east of the mountains, and other game was scarce. 
 Sometimes a party of hunters were absent for days, even 
 weeks, without anoing more game than woukl subsist 
 themselves. As the trappers were all hunters in the win- 
 ter, it frequently happened that Meek and one or more 
 of his associates went on a hunt in company, for the bene- 
 fit of the camp, which was very hungry at times. 
 
 On one of these hunting expeditions that winter, the 
 party consisting of Meek, Hawkins, Doughty, and Anioiiie 
 Claymore, they had been out nearly a fortnight without 
 killing anything of consoquence., and had clambered up 
 the side of the m.oun tains on the frozen snow in hopes o? 
 finding some mountain sheep. As they traveled along 
 under a projecting ledge of rocks, they came to a place 
 where there were the impressions in the snow of enor- 
 mous grizzly bear feet. Close by was c;n opening in the 
 rocks, revealing a cavern, and to this the tracks ^n the 
 snow conducted. Evidcsntly the creature had conif oat 
 of its winter den, and made just one circuit back again. 
 At these signs of game the hunters hesitated — certain it 
 was there, but doubtful how to obtain it. 
 
 At length Doughty proposed to get up on the rocks 
 above the mouth of the cavern and shoot the bear as he 
 came out, if somebody would go in and dislodge him. 
 
 " I'm your man," answered Meek. 
 
 "And I too," said Claymore. 
 
 " 111 be if we are not as brave as you are," said 
 
 Hawkins, as he prepared to follow. ^ -i 
 
 On entering the cave, which was sixteen or twenty feet 
 square, and high enough to stand erect in, instead of one, 
 three bears were discovered. They were standing, the 
 largest one m the middle, with their eyes staring at th^ 
 
SECOND DANIELS. 
 
 139 
 
 \, winter, 
 en early 
 s scarce. 
 ys, even 
 [ subsist 
 the win- 
 or more 
 ho bene- 
 
 iter, the 
 Anioine 
 without 
 )ered up 
 hopes 0? 
 ^d along 
 » a }.ltice 
 of enor- 
 13: in the 
 'S "n the 
 
 0111 P O'lt 
 
 ;k again, 
 certain it 
 
 he rocks 
 ar as hp 
 him. 
 
 re 
 
 " said 
 
 Mity feet 
 1 of one, 
 iiig, the 
 g at th-J 
 
 entrance, but quite quiet, greeting the hunters only with 
 a low growl. Finding that there was a bear apiece to be 
 disposed of, the hunters kept close to the wall, and out of 
 the stream of light from the entrance, while they ad- 
 vanced a little way, cautiously, towards their game, which, 
 however, seemed to take no notice of them. After ma- 
 neuvering a few minutes to get nearer, Meek finally struck 
 the large bear on the head with his wiping-stick, when it 
 immediately moved oiF and ran out of the cave. As it 
 canK out, Doughty shot, but only wounded it, and it 
 came rushing back, snorting, and running around in a 
 circle, till the well directed shots from all three killed it 
 (111 the spot. Two more bears now remv^ined to be dis- 
 ,'osed of. ■ ■ ' 
 
 The successful shot put Hawkins in high spirits. He 
 began to hallo and laugh, dancing around, and with the 
 others striking the next largest bear to make him run out, 
 which he soon did, and was shot by Doughty. By this 
 time their guns were reloaded, the men growing more 
 and more elated, and Hawkins declaring they were "all 
 Daniels in the lions' den, and no mistake." This, and 
 similar expressions, he constantly vociferated, while they 
 drove out the third and smallest bear. As it reached the 
 cave's mouth, three simultaneous sho* ^ put an end to the 
 last one, when Hawkins' excitement knew no bounds. 
 " Daniel v/as a humbug," said he. "Daniel in the lions' 
 deu ! Of course it was winter, and the lions were sucking 
 their paws! Tvll me no more of Daniel's exploits. We 
 are as good Daniels as he ever dared to be. Hurrah fci- 
 these Daniels ! " With these expressions, and playing 
 many antics by way of rejoicing, the delighted Hawkina 
 tinally danced himself out of his *' lion's den," and set to 
 work with the others to prepare for a return to camp. 
 
 Sleds were soon constructed out of the branches of the 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
140 
 
 THE RETURN TO CAMP. 
 
 mountain willow, and on these light vehicles the fortunate 
 find of bear meat was soon conveyed to the hungry camp 
 in the plain below. And ever after this liingular exploit 
 of the party, Hawkins continued to aver, in language 
 more strong than elegant, that the Scripture Daniel was a 
 humbug compared to himself, and Meek, and Claymore. 
 
 •I •'^..1! 
 
 iH: 
 
 -i<. 
 
 H'';-i>^ 
 
 \1 ■! '■ lij 
 
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 iiCiSf. 
 
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 ■iu:r"i,n vm;.-; S'v 
 
 liW'Ohm 
 
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 ..I'Mll iHt'i! ;llO!i oil) ''.("i!^i 
 
 :! jlJioi/Al '.. 
 
 \>n jui'ti^ii-^u^'/- 
 
 -}'\l 
 
 ■•■.'!! ,!.b'.)l 
 
 •1 v-!'.-lL.iMc:,l:iii.!; bvixU .al 
 
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 %>:nt.fon ^.'if 7;'ji(:* jtn;/ij.'>;i 
 
 ••((1*. 
 
 ;i ?nt; fl' ir/)iw,fi 
 
 
 
 i*(>a -ncvw fjiioj 
 
 
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 HK\'rt.di:,ti > i. 
 
 iWv 
 
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 ■' ■ v tf >7f^ »■;; 
 
 ^' -&i* 
 
 liV? :,jnr\ ■:['.>: 
 
 h?r'i-:i'> -^V 
 
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 iio^iod ■)c^j-!j JuvjIjIv/ 
 
 4rtu]: 
 
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 i 
 
A VISIT FROM BLACKFEET. 
 
 141 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 1833. l.f the spring the camp was visited by a party 
 of twenty Blackfeet, who drove off most of the horses ; 
 and among the stolen ones, Bridger's favorite race-horse, 
 Grohean, a Camanche steed of great speed and endurance. 
 To retake the horses, and if possible punish the thieves, 
 a company of the gamest trappers, thirty in number, i:i- 
 cluding Meek, and Kit Carson, who not long before had 
 joined the Rocky Mountain Com ny, was dispatched on 
 their trail. They had not traveled long before they came 
 up with the Blackfeet, but the horses weio nowhere to be 
 seen, having been secreted, after the manner of these thieves, 
 in some defile of the mountains, until the skirmish was 
 over which they knew well enough to anticipate. Accord- 
 ingly when the trappers came up, the wily savages .ere 
 prepared for them. Their numbers were inferior to that 
 of tlie whites ; accordingly they assumed an innocent and 
 peace-desiring air, while their head man advanced wil 
 inevitable peace-pipe, to have a "talk." But as their talk 
 was a tissue of lies, the trappers soon lost patience, and a 
 quarrel (piickly arose. The Indians betook themselves to 
 the defences which were selected beforehand, and a fight 
 began, which without giving to either party the victory 
 of arms, ended in the killing of two or three of the Black- 
 feet, and the wounding very severely of Kit Carson. 
 The firing ceased with nightfall; and when morning came, 
 as usual the Blackfeet were gone, and the trappers re- 
 turned to camp without their horses. 
 
 i H 
 
I fimiv «"' ' 
 
 142 
 
 THE GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS. 
 
 The lost animals wer'^ soon replaced by purchase from 
 the Nez Perces, and the company divided up into brigades, 
 some destined for the country east of the mountains, and 
 others for the south aid west. In this year Meek rose a 
 grade above the hired trapper, and became one of the 
 order denominated skin trappers. These, like the hired 
 trappers, depend upon the company to furnish them an 
 outfit ; but do not receive regular wages, as do the others. 
 They trap for themselves, only agreeing to sell their bea- 
 ver to the company which furnishes the outfit, and to no 
 other. In this capacity, our Joe, and a few associates, 
 hunted this spring, in the Snake River iind Salt Lake coun- 
 tries; returning as usual to the annual rendezvous, which 
 was appointed this summer to meet on Green River. Here 
 were the Rocky Mountain and American Companies; the 
 St. Louis Company, under Capt, Wm. Sublette and his 
 friend Campbell ; the usual camp of Indian allies ; and, a 
 %w miles distant, that of Captain Bonneville, ^n addition 
 to all these, was a small company belonging to Capt. Stuart, 
 an Englishman of noble family, who was traveling in the 
 far west only to gratify his own love of wild adventure, 
 and admiration of all that is grand and magnificent in na- 
 ture. With him was an artist named Miller, and several 
 servants; but he usually traveled in company with one or 
 another of the fur companies; thus enjoying their protec- 
 tion, and at the same time gaining a knowledge of the 
 habits of mountain life. 
 
 The rendezvous, at this time, furnished him a striking 
 example of some of the ways of mountain-men, least to 
 their honorable fame; and we fear we must confess that 
 our friend Joe Meek, who had been gathering laurels? as a 
 valiant hunter and trapper during the three or four years 
 of his apprenticeship, was also becoming fitted, by frequent 
 practice, to graduate in some of the vices of camp life, 
 
 it 
 
A MAD WOLF. 
 
 143 
 
 especially the one of conviviality during rendezvous. Had 
 he not given his permission, we should not perhaps have 
 said what he says of himself, that he was at such times of- 
 ten very "powerful drunk." 
 
 During the indulgence of these excesses, while at this 
 rendezvous, there occurred one of those incidents of wil- 
 derness life which make the blood creep with horror. 
 Twelve of the men were bitten by a mad wolf, which hung 
 about the camp for two or three nights. Twc of these 
 were seized with madness in camp, sometime afterwards, 
 and ran off into the mountains, where they perished. One 
 was attacked by the paroxysm while on a hunt ; when, 
 throwing himself off his horse, he struggled and foamed 
 at the mouth, gnashing his teeth, and barking like a wolf. 
 Yet he retained consciousness enough to warn away his 
 companions, who hastened in search of assistance ; but 
 when they returned he was nowhere to be found. It was 
 thought that he was seen a day or two afterwards, but no 
 one could come up with him, and of course, he too, per- 
 ished. Another died on his journey to St. Louis ; and 
 several died at different times within the next two years. 
 
 At the time, however, immediately following the visit 
 of the wolf to camp, Captain Stuart was admonishing 
 Meek on the folly of his ways, telling him that the wolf 
 might easily have bitten him,- he was so drunk. 
 
 "It would have killed him, — sure, if it hadn't cured ^ 
 him ! " said Meek, — alluding to the belief that alcohol is a^ 
 remedy for the poison of hydrophobia. 
 
 AVhen sobriety returned, and work was once more to be 
 resumed. Meek returned with three or four associates to 
 the Salt Lake country, to trap on the numerous streams 
 that flow down from the mountains to the east of Salt Lake. 
 He had not been long in this region when he fell in on 
 Bear River with a company of BonneviUe's men, one huii« 
 10 
 
 i 
 
144 
 
 JO WALKERS CALIFORNIA EXrEDITION. 
 
 dred and eighteen in number, under Jo Walker, who had 
 been sent to explore the Great Salt Lake, and the adja- 
 cent country ; to make charts, keep a journal, and, in short, 
 make a thorough discovery of all that region. Great ex- 
 pectations were cherished by the Captain concerning this 
 favorite expedition, which were, however, utterly blighted, 
 as his historian has recorded. The disappointment and loss 
 which Bonneville suffered from it, gave a tinge of preju- 
 dice to his delineations of the trapper's character. It was 
 true that they did not explore Salt Lake ; and that they 
 made a long and expensive journey, collecting but few 
 peltries. It is true also, that they caroused in true moun- 
 tain style, while among the Californians : but that the ex- 
 pedition was unprofitable was due chiefly to the difficul- 
 ties attending the exploration of a new country, a large 
 portion of which was desert and mountain. 
 
 But let us not anticipate. When Meek and his compan- 
 ions fell in with Jo Walker and his company, they resolved 
 to accompany the expedition ; for it was " a feather in a 
 man's cap," and made his services doubly valuable to have 
 become acquainted with a new country, and fitted himself 
 for a pilot. 
 
 On leaving Bear River, where the hunters took the pre- 
 caution to lay in a store of dried meat, the company passed 
 down on the west side of Salt Lake, and found themselves 
 in the Salt Lake desert, where their store, insufficiently 
 large, soon became reduced to almost nothing. Here was 
 experienced again the sufferings to which Meek had once 
 before been subjected in the Digger country, ^vhich, in 
 fact, bounded this desert on the northwest. " There was," 
 says Bonneville, " neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring, 
 nor pool, nor running stream ; nothing but parched wastes 
 of sand, where horse and rider were in danger of perish- 
 ing." Many an emigrant has since confirmed the truth of 
 this account. 
 
INSTINCT OF THE MULE. 
 
 145 
 
 It could not be expected that men would continue on 
 in such a country, in that direction which offered no change 
 for the better. Discerning at last a snowy range to the 
 northwest, they traveled in that direction ; pinched with 
 famine, and with tongues swollen out of their mouths with 
 thirst. They came at last to a small stream, into which 
 both men and animals plunged to quench their raging 
 
 The instinct of a mule on these desert journeys is some- 
 thing wonderful. We have heard it related by others be- 
 sides the monntain-men, that they will detect the neighbor- 
 hood of water long before their riders have discovered a 
 sign ; and setting up a gallop, when before they could 
 hardly walk, will dash into the water up to their necks, 
 drinking in the life-saving moisture through every pore of 
 the skin, while ' j prudently refrain from swallowing 
 much of it. If ;ie of a company has been off on a hunt 
 for water, and on finding it has let his mule drink, when 
 he returns to camp, the other animals will gather about 
 it, and snuff its breath, and even its body, betraying 
 the liveliest interest and envy. It i. easy to imagme that 
 in the case of Jo Walker's company, not only the animals 
 but the men were eager to steep themselves in the reviv- 
 ing waters of the first stream which they found on the 
 border of this weary desert. 
 
 It proved to be a tributary of Mary's or Ogden's River, 
 along which the company pursued their way, trapping as 
 they went, and living upon the flesh of the beaver. They 
 had now entered upon the same country inhabited by 
 Digger Indians, in which Milton Sublette's brigade had so 
 nearly perished with famine the previous year. It was 
 unexplored, and the natives were as curious about the 
 movements of their white visitors, as Indians always are 
 on the first appearance of civilised men. 
 
T ^p i m" 
 
 146 
 
 MASSACRE OF DIGGERS AT MARYS RIVER. 
 
 i,^-' 
 
 They hung about the camps, offering no ollences by day, 
 but contriving to do a great deal of thieving during the 
 night-time. Each day, for several days, theii* numbers 
 increased, until the army which dogged the trappers by 
 day, and filched from them at night, numbered nearly a 
 thousand. They had no guns; but carried clubs, and 
 some bows and arrows. The trappers at length became 
 uneasy at this accumulation of force, even though they 
 had no fire-arms, for was it not this very style of people, 
 armed with clubs, that attacked Smith's party on the 
 Umpqua, and killed all but four ? 
 
 "We must kill a lot of them, boys," said Jo Walker. 
 "It will never do to let that crowd get into camp." Ac- 
 cordingly, as the Indians crowded round at a ford of Mary's 
 River, always a favorite time of attack with the savages, 
 Walker gave the cider to fire, and the whole company 
 poured a volley into the jostling crowd. The effect was 
 terrible. Seventy -five Diggers bit the dust; while the 
 others, seized with terror and horror at this new and instan- 
 taneous mode of death, fled howling away, the trappers 
 pursuing them until satisfied that they were too much 
 frightened to return. This seemed to Captain Bonneville, 
 when he came to hear of it, like an unnecessary and fero- 
 cious act. But Bonneville was not an experienced Inuian 
 fighter. His views of their character were much governed 
 by his knowledge of the Flatheads and Nez Perces ; and 
 also by the immunity from harm he enjoyed among the 
 Shoshonies on the Snake River, where the Hudson's Bay 
 Company had brought them into subjection, and where 
 even two men might travel in safety at the time of his 
 residence in that country. 
 
 Walker's company continued on down to the main or 
 Humboldt River, trapping as they went, both for the furs, 
 and for something to eat j and expecting to find that the 
 
 I f 
 
1 
 
 CROSP'NG THE SIERRA NEVADAS. 
 
 147 
 
 river whose course they were following through these bar- 
 ren plains, would lead them to some more important river, 
 or to some large lake or inland sea. This was a country 
 entirely unknown, even to the adventurous traders and 
 trappers of the fur companies, who avoided it because it 
 was out of the buffalo range ; and because the borders of 
 it, along which they sometimes skirted, were found to be 
 wanting i;i water-courses in which beaver might be looked 
 for. Walker's company therefore, now determined to 
 prosecute their explorations until they came to some new 
 and profitable beaver grounds. ... > 
 
 But after a long march through an inhospitable country 
 they came at last to where the Humboldt sinks itself in a 
 great swampy lake, in the midst of deserts of sage-brush. 
 Here was the end of their great expectations. To the 
 west of them, however, and not far of!" rose the lofty sum- 
 mits of the Sierra Nevada range, some of whose peaks 
 were covered with eternal snows. Since they had already 
 made an unprofitable business of their expedition, and 
 failed in its principal aim, that of exploring Salt Lake, 
 they resolved upon crossing the mountains into California, 
 and seeking new fields of adventure on the western side 
 of the Nevada mountains. ^'i .;«: i-.?.; i^ :.sX;i; .. 
 
 Accordingly, although it was already late in the autumn, 
 the party pushed on toward the west, until they came to 
 Pyramid Lake, another of those swampy lakes which are 
 frequently met with near the eastern base of these Sierras. 
 Lito this flowed a stream similar to the Humboldt, which 
 came from the south, and, they believed, had its rise in 
 the mountains. As it was important to find a good pass, 
 they took their course along this stream, which they 
 named Trucker's River, and continued along it to its 
 head-waters in the Sierras. 
 
 And now began the arduous labor of crossing an un- 
 
 
^J«,.(<'>W''<P"^F 
 
 148 
 
 DELIGHT OF THE TRAPPEUB. 
 
 <fXt. 
 
 )/' 
 
 known range of lofty mountains. Mountaineers as they 
 were, they found it a difficult undertaking, and one^ at- 
 tended with considerable peril. For a period of more 
 than three weeks they were struggling with these dangers; 
 hunting paths for their mules and horses, traveling around 
 canyons thousands of feet deep; sometimes sinking ia 
 new fallen snow ; always hungry, and often in peril 
 from starvation. Sometimes they scrambled up almost 
 smooth declivities of granite, that offered no foothold 
 save the occasional seams in the rock; at others they 
 traveled through pine forests made nearly impassable by 
 snow ; and at other times on a ridge which wind and sun 
 made bare for them. All around rose rocky peaks and 
 pinnacles fretted by ages of denudation to very spears 
 and needles of a bui'nt looking, red colored rock. Below, 
 were spread out immense fields, or rather oceans, of 
 granite that seemed once to have been a molten sea, whose 
 waves were suddenly congealed. From the fissures be- 
 tween these billows grew stunted pines, which had found 
 a scanty soil far down in the crevices of the rock for their 
 hardy roots. Following the course of any stream flowing 
 in the rijht direction for their purpose, they came not in- 
 frequently to some small fertile valley, set in amidst the 
 rocks like a cup, and often containing in its depth a bright 
 little lake. These are the oases in the mountain deserts. 
 But the lateness of the season made it necessary to avoid 
 the high valleys on account of the snow, which in winter 
 accumulates to a depth of twenty feet. 
 
 Great was the exultation of the mountaineers when 
 they emerged from the toils and dangers, safe into the 
 bright and sunny plains of California; having explored 
 almost the identical route since fixed upon for the Union 
 Pacific Railroad. - " 
 
 They proceeded down the Sacramento valley, toward 
 
 ■ 1 
 
ESCORTED BY SPANIs^lI SOLDIERS TO MONTEREY. 149 
 
 tliG coast, after recruiting tlicir horses on the ripe wild oats, 
 and the freshly springing grass which the December rains 
 harl staried into life, and themselves on the plentiful game 
 of the foot-hills. Something of the stimulus of the Cali- 
 foniian climate seemed to be imparted to the ever buoy- 
 ant blood of these hardy and danger-despising men. 
 They Avere mad with delight on finding themselves, after 
 crossing the stern Sierras, in a land of sunshine and plenty; 
 a beautiful land of verdant hills and tawny plains; of 
 streams winding between rows of alder and willow, and 
 valleys dotted with picturesque groves of the evergreen 
 oak. Instead of the wild blasts which they were used to 
 encounter in December, they experienced here only those 
 dainty and wooing airs which poets have ascribed to spring, 
 but which seldom come even with the last May days in an 
 eastern climate. 
 
 In the San Jose valley they encountered a party of one 
 hundred soldiers, which the Spanish government at Mon- 
 terey had sent out to take a party of Indians accused of 
 stealing cattle. The soldiers were native Californians, de- 
 scendants of the mixed blood of Spain and Mexico, a wild, 
 jaunty looking set of fellows, who at first were inclined 
 to take Walker's party for a band of cattle thieves, and to 
 inarch them off to Monterey. But the Rocky Mountain 
 trapper was not likely to be taken prisoner by any such 
 brigade as the dashing cabelleroa of Monterey. ' -, ; ■ " 
 
 After astonishing them with a series of whoops and 
 yells, and trying to astonish them with feats of horseman- 
 ship, they began to discover that when it came to the lat- 
 ter accomplishment, even mountain-men could learn some- 
 thing from a native Californian. In this latter frame of 
 mind they consented to be conducted to Monterey as pris- 
 oners or not, just as the Spanish government should here- 
 after be pleased to decree ; and they had confidence in 
 
 m 
 
 '■'i 
 
 •M I 
 
^••n.ir- 
 
 150 
 
 A nOSPITAHLE HECKPTION. 
 
 themselves that they shouhl be abl'e to bend that hiyh and 
 mighty autliority to their own purposes tliereaftcr. 
 
 Nor were they mistaken in their calcuhitions. Their 
 fearless, free and easy style, united to their coni})lete fur- 
 nishing of arms, their numbers, and their superior ability 
 to stand up under the demoralizing efl'cct of the favorto 
 aguadlente^ soon so far influenced the soldiery at least, tliat 
 the trappers were allowed perfect freedcnn under the very 
 eyes of the jealous Spanish government, and were treated 
 with all hospitality. 
 
 The month which the trappers spent at Monterey was 
 their "red letter day" for along time after. The habits 
 of the Californians accorded with their own, with just d. 
 ference enough to furnish them with novelties and exci^i 
 ments such as gave a zest to their intci'course. The 
 Californian, and the mountain-men, were alike centaurs. 
 Horses were their necessity, and their deliglit; and the 
 plains swarmed with them, as also with wild cattle, de- 
 scendants of those imported by the Jesuit Fathers in the 
 early days of the Missions. These horses and cattle were 
 placed at the will and pleasure of the trappers. They 
 feasted on one, and bestrode the other as it suited them, 
 They attended bull-fights, ran races, threw the lasso, and 
 played moute, with a relish that delighted the inhabitants 
 of Monterey. 
 
 The partial civilization of the Californians accorded 
 with every feeling to which the mountain-men could be 
 brought to confess. To them the refinements of cities 
 would have been oppressive. The adobe houses of Mon- 
 terey were not so restraining in their elegance as to trou- 
 ble the sensations of men used to the heavens for a root 
 in summer, and a skin lodge for shelter in winter. Some 
 fruits and vegetables, articles not tasted for years, they 
 obtained at the missions, where the priests received them 
 

 ''i 
 
 fl 
 
 
 T 
 
 ! . . 
 
 lifr 
 
 
 4 .' 
 
 1 
 i 
 
 i^ 
 
 ; 
 
 Rjfj 
 
■^;.iii 
 
THE NATIVE CALIFORNIANS. 
 
 151 
 
 courteously and hospitably, as they had done Jedediah 
 Smith and his company, live years before, when on their 
 lon<' and disastrous journey they found themselves almost 
 destitute of the necessaries of life, upon their arrival in 
 Cahfornia. There was something too, in the dress cf the 
 people, both men and women, which agreed with, while 
 differing from, the dress of the mountaineers -xnd their 
 now absent Indian dulcineas. 
 
 The men wore garments of many colors, consisting of 
 blue velveteen breeches and jacket, the jac/Ket having a 
 scarlet collar and cuff?, and the breeches being open at 
 the knee to display the stocking of white. Beneath these 
 were displayed high buskins made of deer skin, fringed 
 down the outside of the ankle, and laced with a cord and 
 tassels. On the head was Avorn a broad brimmed sombrero^ 
 and over the shoulders the jaunty Mexican sarajje. When 
 tliey rode, the Californirus wore enormous spurs, fastened 
 on by jingling chains. 'xLeir saddles were so shaped that 
 it was difficult to dislodge the rider, being high before and 
 behind ; and the indispensable lasso hung coiled from the 
 pommel. Their stirrups were of wood, broad on the bot- 
 tom, with a guard of leather that protected the fancy bus- 
 kin of the horseman from injury. Thus accoutred, and 
 mounted on a wild horse, the Californian was a suitable 
 comrade, in appearance, at least, for the buckskin clad trap- 
 per, with his high beaver-skin cap, his gay scarf, and moc- 
 casins, and profusion of arms. 
 
 The dress of the women was a gown of gaudy calico 
 or silk, and a bright colored shawl, which served for man- 
 tlla and bonnet together. They were well formed, with 
 languishing eyes and soft voices ; and doibtless appeared 
 charming in the eyes of our band of trappers, with whom 
 they associated freely at fandangoes, buil-iights, or bear- 
 baitings. In such company, what wonder that Bonneville's 
 
 -■xm 
 
 |! 
 
^(JW»I^^ 
 
 152 
 
 THE MQQUIS yiLL.'..GE—INFAMOX[S AFFAIR. 
 
 men lingered for a whole month ! What wonder that the 
 Califorria expedition was a favorite theme by camp-fires, 
 for along time subsequent? ?i- fui 
 
 1834. In February the trappers bethought themselves 
 of returning to the mountains. The route fixed upon was 
 one which should take them through Southern California, 
 and New Mexico, along the course of all the principal 
 rivers. Crossing the coast mountains, into the valley of 
 the San Joaquin, they followed its windings until they 
 came to its rise in the Lulare Lake. Thence turning in a 
 southeasterly course, they came to the Colorado, at the 
 Mohave villages, where they traded with the natives, 
 whom they found friendly. Keeping on down the Colo- 
 rado, to the mouth of the Gila, they turned back from 
 that river, and ascended the Colorado once more, to Wil- 
 liams' Pork, and up the latter stream to some distance, 
 when they fell in with a company of sixty men under 
 Frapp and Jervais, two of the partners in the Rocky 
 Mountain Company. The meeting was joyful on all 
 sides ; but particularly so between Meek and some of his 
 old comrades, with whom he had fought Indians and griz- 
 zly bears, or set beaver traps on some lonely stream in 
 the Blackfoot country. A lively exchange of quostious 
 and answers took place, while gaiety and good feeling 
 reigned. 
 
 Frapp had been out quite as long as the Monterey party. 
 It was seldom that the brigade which traversed the south- 
 ern country, on the Colorado, and its large tributaries, 
 returned to winter quarters; for in the region where they 
 trapped winter was unknown, and the journey to the north- 
 ern country a long and hazardous one. But the reunited 
 trappers had each their own experiences to relate. 
 
 The two companies united made a party nearly two hun- 
 dred strong. Keeping with Frapp, they crossed over from 
 
THE RETURN MARCH. 
 
 •153 
 
 Williams' Fork to the Colorado Chiquito river, at the Mo- 
 quis village, where some of the men disgraced themselves 
 far more than did Jo Walker's party at the crossing of 
 Mary's River. For the Moquis were a half-civilized nation, 
 ^v'lio had houses and gardens, and conducted themselves 
 kindly, or at the worst peaceably, toward properly behaved 
 strangers. These trappers, instead of approaching them 
 with offers of purchase, lawlessly entered their gardens, 
 rilling them of whatever fruit or melons were ripe, and 
 not hesitating to destroy that which v/tus not ripe. To this, 
 as might be expected, the Moquises objected ; and were 
 shot down for so doing. In this truly infamous affair fif- 
 teen or twenty of them were killed. 
 
 "I didn't belong to that crowd," says Joe Meek, " I sat 
 on the fence and saw it, though. It was a shameful thing." 
 
 From the Moquis village, the joint companies crossed 
 the country in a northeasterly direction, crossing several 
 branches of the Colorado at their head-waters, which 
 course finally brought them to the head-waters of the Rio 
 Grande. The journey from the month of the Gila, though 
 long, extended over a country comparatively safe. Either 
 farther to the south or east, the caravan would have been 
 in danger of a raid from the most dangerous tribes on the 
 continent. .; r. v -.,.->? .■-.^.wv. . . .:.".'3 . - .. .» 
 
 ■ ■ , ■-) 
 
 ji 
 
 '■ ''. ■■■' j.j>.;j,.-..i-v-;> ■:>:j^> ;ji''i' ■■■ - • • '' 
 
 ,;, : -i.i "i, :'■-.■}■■: r't]:,rr^ "r.^r. ri'^/i; n^ic :::■■':.■ '" "a.:pv;' 
 
 ^PfS^"^' 
 
 , 
 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 
 i J' i 
 
 
 1%^ 
 
154 
 
 IN THE CAMANCHE COUNTRY. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 1834, But Joe Meek was not destined to return to the 
 Rocky Mountains without having had an Indian fight. If 
 adventures did not come in his way he was the man to put 
 himself in the way of adventures. 
 
 While the camp was on its way from the neighborhood 
 of Grande River to the New Park, Meek, Kit Carson, 
 and Mitchell, with three Delaware Indians, named Tom 
 Hill, Manhead, and Jonas, went on a hunt across to the 
 east of Grande River, in the country lying between the 
 Arkansas and Cimarron, where numerous small branches 
 of these rivers head together, or within a small extent of 
 country. 
 
 They were about one hundred-and fifty miles from camp, 
 and travehng across the open plain between the streams, 
 one beautiful May morning, when about five miles otF they 
 descried a large band of Indians mounted, and galloping 
 toward them. As they were in the Camanche country, 
 they knew what to expect if they allowed themselves 
 to be taken prisoners. They gave but a moment to the 
 observation of their foes, but that one moment revealed 
 a spirited scene. Fully two hundred Camanches, their 
 warriors in front, large and well formed men, mounted on 
 fleet and powerful horses, armed with spears and battle 
 axes, racing like the wind over the prairie, their feather 
 head-dresses bending to the breeze, that swept past them 
 in the race with double force ; all distinctly seen in the 
 

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 1 
 
 '1 
 
 
 
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 t , 
 '■ 1 
 
 .\ 
 
 
 
[r'^iW^fTr 
 
 clear a 
 
 fear mi 
 
 The 
 
 was ei 
 
 WilS US( 
 
 take th 
 covert 
 niountf 
 change 
 our mil 
 
 That 
 wlio nc 
 be thoi 
 this pi 
 one. [ 
 mules, 
 their tJ- 
 bridles 
 Then : 
 knives, 
 for eac 
 
 Inle 
 them : 
 ing, aiK 
 carried 
 the rati 
 the litt 
 CaniaiK 
 upon tl 
 for thai 
 
 This 
 were c 
 wroug] 
 more tl 
 
THE MULE FORT — A CAMANCHE CHARGE. 
 
 155 
 
 clear air of the prairie, and giving the beholder a thrill of 
 fear mingled with admiration. 
 
 The first moment given to this spectacle, the second one 
 was employed to devise some means of escape. To run 
 was useless. The swift Camanche steeds would soon over- 
 take them ; and then their horrible doom was fixed. No 
 covert was at hand, neither thicket nor ravine, as in the 
 mountains there might have been. Carson and Meek ex- 
 changed two or three sentences. At last, " we must kill 
 our mules ! " said they. 
 
 That seems a strange devise to the uninitiated reader, 
 who no doubt believes that in such a case their mules must 
 be their salvation. And so they were intended to be. In 
 this plight a dead mule was far more useful than a live 
 one. To the ground sprang every man ; and placing their 
 nuiles, seven in number, in a ring, they in an instant cut 
 their throats with their hunting knives, and held on to the 
 bridles until each animal fell dead in its appointed place. 
 Then hastily scooping up what earth they could with 
 knives, they made themselves a fort — a hole to stand in 
 for each man, and a dead mule for a breastwork. 
 
 In less than half an hour the Camanches charged on 
 them; the medicine-man in advance shouting, gesticulat- 
 ing, and making a desperate clatter with a rattle which he 
 carried and shook violently. The yelling, the whooping, 
 the rattling, the force of the charge were appalling. But 
 the little garrison in the mule fort did not waver. The 
 Camanche horses did. They could not be made to charge 
 upon the bloody carcasses of the mules, nor near enough 
 for their riders to throw a spear into the fort. 
 
 This was what the trappers had relied upon. They 
 were cool and determined, while terribly excited and 
 wrought up by their vsituation. It was agreed that no 
 more than three should fire at a time, the other three re- 
 
 ■I 
 
•ym 
 
 156 
 
 REPEATED ATTACKS — THE SQUAWS ' WEAPON. 
 
 serving their fire while the empty guns could be reloaded 
 They were to pick their men, and kill one at every shot, 
 
 They acted up to their regulations. At the charge the 
 Camanche horses recoiled and could not be urged upon 
 the fort of slaughtered mules. The three whites fired first, 
 and the medicine-man and two other Camanches fell, 
 When a medicine-man is killed, the others retire to hold a 
 council and appoint another, for without their "medicine" 
 they could not expect success in battle. This was time 
 gained. The warriors retired, while their women came 
 up and carried ofi' the dead. 
 
 After devoting a little time to bewailing the departed, 
 another chief was appointed to the head place, and another 
 furious charge was made with the same results as before. 
 Three more warriors bit the dust; while the spears of their 
 brethren, attached to long hair ropes by which they could 
 be withdrawn, fell short of reaching the men in the fort. 
 Again and again the Camanches made a fruitless charge, 
 losing, as often as they repeated it, three warriors, either 
 dead or wounded. Three times that day the head chief 
 or medicine-man was killed; and when that happened, 
 the heroes in the fort got a little time to breathe. While 
 the warriors held a council, the women took care of the 
 wounded and slain. 
 
 As the women approached the fort to carry off the fallen 
 warriors, they mocked and reviled the little band of trap- 
 pers, calling them "women," for fighting in a fort, and 
 resorting to the usual Indian ridicule and gasconade. 
 Occasionally, also, a warrior raced at full speed past the 
 fort apparently to take observations. Thus the battle con- 
 tinued through the entire day. 
 
 It was terrible work for the trappers. The burning sun 
 of the plains shone on them, scorching them to faintness. 
 Their faces were begrimed with powder and dust ; their 
 
THE ESCAPE BY NIGIIT THE SOUTH PARK. 
 
 157 
 
 throats parched, and tongues swollen with thirst, and their 
 whole frames aching from their cramped positions, as well 
 the excitement and fatigue oi" the battle. But they 
 
 as 
 
 dared not relax their vigilance for a moment. They were 
 fighting for their lives, and they meant to win. 
 
 At length the sun set on that bloody and wearisome 
 day. Forty-two Camanches were killed, and several more 
 wounded, for the charge had been repeated fifteen or 
 twenty times. The Indians drew o£f at nightfall to mourn 
 over their dead, and hold a council. Probably they had 
 lost faith in their medicines, or believed tliat the trappers 
 possessed one far greater than any of theirs. Under the 
 friendly covc^ of the night, the six heroes who had fought 
 successfully more than a hundred Camanches, took each 
 his blanket and his gun, and bidding a brief adieu to dead 
 mules and beaver packs, set out to return to camD. • 
 
 When a mountain-man had a journey to perform on foot,' 
 to travel express, or to escape from an enemy, he fell into 
 Avhat is called a dog trot, and ran in that manner, some- 
 times, all day. On the present occasion, the six, escaping 
 for life, ran all night, and found no water for seventy-five 
 mile . When they did at last come to a clear running 
 stream, their thankfulness was equal to their necessity, 
 "for," says Meek, "thirst is the greatest suffering I ever 
 experienced. It is far worse than hunger or pain." 
 
 Having rested and refreshed themselves at the stream, 
 they kept on without much delay until they reached camp 
 in that beautiful valley of the Eocky Mountains called the 
 New, or the South Park. .. . ^ .. ^ > s>^: --^^.-k-;,,, ,. • 
 
 While they remained in the South Park, Mr. Guthrie, 
 one of the Rocky Mountain Company's traders, was killed 
 by lightning. A number of persons were collected in the 
 lodge of the Booshway, Frapp, to avoid the rising tempest, 
 when Guthrie, who was leaning against the lodge pole, 
 
 I n 
 
rm^ppaatammm 
 
 158 DEATH OF GUTIIHIE. — MEETING WITH BONNEVILLE. 
 
 was struck by a flash of the electric current, and fell dead 
 instantly. Frapp rushed out of the lodge, partly bewil- 
 dered himself by the shock, and under the impression that 
 (luthrie had been shot. Frapp was a German, and spoice 
 English somcAvhat imperfectly. In the excitement of the 
 
 moment he shouted out, " Py , who did shoot 
 
 Guttery ! " 
 
 " — a' , T expect: He's a firing into camp;" 
 
 drawled out Hawkins, whose ready wit was very disregard- 
 ful of sacred names and subjects. 
 
 The mountaineers acre familiar with the most awful 
 aspects of nature ; and if their familiarity had not bred 
 contempt, it had at least hardened them to those solemn 
 impressions which other men would have felt under theu" 
 influence. 
 
 From New Park, Meek traveled north with the main 
 camp, passing first to the Old Park ; thence to the Little 
 Snake, a branch of Bear River; thence to Pilot Butte; 
 and finally to Green River to rendezvous ; having traveled 
 in the past year about three thousand miles, on horseback, 
 through new and often dangerous countries. It is easy to 
 believe that the Monterey expedition was the popular 
 theme in camp during rendezvous. It had been difficult 
 to get volunteers for Bonneville's Salt Lake Exploration: 
 but such was the wild adventure to which it led, that vol- 
 unteering for a trip to Monterey would have been exceed- 
 ingly popular immediately thereafter. ' 
 
 On Bear River, Bonneville's men fell in with their com- 
 mander, Captain Bonneville, whose disappointment and 
 indignation at the failure of his plans was exceedingly 
 great. In this indignation there was considerable justice; 
 yet much of his disappointment was owing to causes which 
 a more experienced trader would have avoided. The only 
 conclusion which can be arrived at by an impartial ob- 
 
RUINOUS COMPETITION. 
 
 159 
 
 server of the events of 1832-35, is, that none but certain 
 men of long experience and liberal means, could siicecetl 
 ill the business of the fur-trade. There were too many 
 chances of loss; too many wild elements to be mingled 
 ill amity ; and too powerful opposition from the old estab- 
 lished compa^iies. Captain Bonneville's experience was 
 110 diflcrent from Mr. Wyeth's. In both cases there was 
 iimch cfTort, outlay, and loss. Nor was their failure owing 
 to any action of the Hudson's Bay Company, different 
 from, or more tyrannical, than the action of the American 
 companies, as has frequently been represented. It was 
 the American companies in the Rocky Mountains that 
 drove both Bonneville and Wyeth out of th- field. Their 
 inexperience could not cope with the thorough knowledge 
 of the business, and the country, which their older rivals 
 possessed. Raw recruits were no match, in trapping or 
 fighting, for old mountaineers: and those veterans who 
 had served long under certain leaders could not be in- 
 veigled from their service except upon the most extrava- 
 gai;t otFers; and these extravagant wages, which if one 
 paid, the other must, would not allow a profit to either of 
 the rivals. * . 
 
 "How much does your company pay you?" asked Bon- 
 neville of Meek, to whom he was complaining of the con- 
 duct of his men on the Monterey expedition. 
 
 "Fifteen hundred dollars," answered Meek. 
 
 'Yes: and /will give it to you," said Bonneville with 
 bitterness. 
 
 It was quite true. Such was the competition aroused 
 by the Captain's ^efforts to secure good men and pilot.s, 
 that rather than lose them to a rival company, the Rocky 
 Mountain Company paid a few of their best men the wa- 
 ges above named. 
 
 ■ 11 •• " ' ' ■•■■■■■■" ■-■• -■■^■' 
 
IGO 
 
 AUVENTUHE8 IN THE fUOW (."OUNTHY. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 1834. The gossip at rendezvous wiis this year of an 
 unusually exciting character. Of the brigad(3H which left 
 for different parts of the country the previous suminor, 
 the Monterey travelers were not the only ones who had 
 met with adventures. Fitzpatrick, who had led a party 
 into the Crow country that autumn, had met with a char 
 acteristic reception from that nation of cunning vaga- 
 bonds. 
 
 Being with his party on Lougue River, in the early part 
 of September, he discovered that he was being dogged 
 by a considerable band of Crows, and endeavored to elude 
 their spying ; but all to no purpose. The Crow chief 
 kept in his neighborhood, and finally expressed a desire 
 to bring his camp alongside that of Fitzpatrick, pretend- 
 ing to the most friendly and honorable sentiments toward 
 his white neighbors. But not feeling any confidence in 
 Crow friendship, Fitzpatrick declined, and moved camp a 
 few miles away. Not, however, wishing to offend the dig- 
 nity of the apparently friendly chief, he took a small es- 
 cort, and went to pay a visit to his Crow neighbors, that 
 they might see that he was not afraid to trust them. 
 Alas, vain subterfuge ! ;. 
 
 While he was exchanging civilities with the Crow chief 
 a party of the young braves stole out of camp, and taking 
 advantage of the leader's absence, made an attack on his 
 camp, so sudden and successful that not a horse, nor any. 
 thing else which they could make booty of was left 
 
UONOU AMONG TIIIKVES. 
 
 IGl 
 
 I'lveri Captain Stuart, who was traveling with Fitzpatrick, 
 and will) was an active officer, was powerless to resist the 
 iittiick, and had to consent to see the camp rifled of every- 
 thing valuable. 
 
 in the meantime Fitzpatrick, after concluding his visit 
 ill the most amicable manner, was returning to camp, when 
 111! was met by the exultant braves, who added insult to 
 injiny by robbing him of his horse, gun, and nearly all 
 his clothes, leaving him to return to his party in a de- 
 plorable condition, to the great amusement of the trap- 
 pers, and his own chagrin. 
 
 However, the next day a talk was held with the head 
 cliiof of the Crows, to whom Fitzpatrick represented the 
 infuniy of such treacherous conduct in a very strong light. 
 Ill answer to this reproof, the chief disowned all knowl- 
 edge of the affair; saying that he could not always con- 
 trol the conduct of the young men, who would be a little 
 wihl now and then, in spite of the best Crow precepts : 
 l)iit that he would do what he could to have the property 
 restored. Accordingly, after more talk, and much elo- 
 quence on the part of Fitzpatrick, the chief part of the 
 plunder was returned to him, including the horses and 
 rifles of the men, together with a little ammunition, and a 
 few beaver traps. 
 
 Fitzpatrick understood the meaning of this apparent 
 fairness, and hastened to get out of the Crow country be- 
 fore another raid by the mischievous young l)raves, at a 
 time when their chief was not "honor bound," should de- 
 prive him of the recovered property. That his conjecture 
 was well founded, was proven by the numerous petty 
 thefts which were committed, and by the loss of several 
 horses and mules, before he could remove them beyond 
 the limits of the Crow territory. 
 
 While the trappers exchanged accounts of their indi- 
 
Jl.^.*l.lii..!UJllii 
 
 162 
 
 l.Nl'Allt JIIEATMKNT OF WVETH. 
 
 vicinal experiences, the leaders liad more important mat- 
 ters to gossip ovei'. The ri\'ahy between tlie several fur 
 companies was now at its climax. Tiirough. Hie enerj^^y 
 and ability of Captain Sublette of the St. Louis Company, 
 and the experience and industry of the liocky Mountain 
 Company, which Captain Sublette still continued to con- 
 trol iri a measure, the power still remained with them 
 The American (.V)nipany had never been able to cope with 
 them in the Uocky Mountains ; and the St. Louis Com- 
 pany were already invading their territory on the Missouri 
 Hiver, by carrying goods up that river in boats, to trade 
 with the Indians under the very walls of the American 
 ('ompany's forts. 
 
 In August of the previous year, when Mr. Nathaniel 
 Wyeth had started on his return to the states, he was ac- 
 companied as far as the mouth of the Yellowstone by 
 Milton Sublette ; and had engaged with tliat gentleman 
 to furnish him with goods the following year, as he be 
 lieved he could do, cheaper than the St. Louis Compai'y, 
 who purchased their goods in St. Louis at a great advance 
 on Boston prices. But Milton Sublette fell in with h's 
 brother the Captain, at the mouth of the Yellowstone, 
 with a keel-boat loaded with merchandise ; and while 
 Wyeth pursued his way eastward to purchase the Indian 
 goods which were intended to supply the wants of the 
 fur traders in the Rocky Mountains, at a profit to him, and 
 an advantage to them, the Captain was persuading his 
 brother n t to encourage any interlopers in the Indian 
 trade ; but to continue to buy goods fi'om himself, as for- 
 merly. So potent were his arguments, that Milton yielded 
 to tliem, in spite of his engagement with Wyeth, Thus 
 during the autumn of 1833, while Bonneville was being 
 wronged ai'.d robbed, as he afterwards became convinced, 
 by his men under Walker, and n n ticipated in the hunting- 
 
BONNEVILLE S VISIT TO WALLAH-WALLAH. 
 
 1G3 
 
 (rronnd selected for himself, in the Crow country, by Fitz- 
 patrick, as he had previously been in the Snake country 
 by Milton Sublette, Wyetb was proceeding to Boston in 
 pood faith, to execute what proved to be a fool's errand. 
 Houncville also had gone on another, when after the trap- 
 ping season was over he left his camp to winter on the 
 SiKikc River, and started with a small escort to visit the 
 Columbia, and select a spot for a trading-post on the lower 
 jjortioii of that river. On arriving at Wallah- Wallah, af- 
 ter a hard journey over the Blue Mountains in the winter, 
 the agent at that post had refused to supply him v;ith pro- 
 visions to prosecute his journey, and given him to under- 
 stand that the Hudson's Bay Company might be polite 
 and hospitable to Captain Bonneville as the gentleman, 
 but that it was against their regulations to encourage the 
 advent of other traders who would interfere with their 
 business, and unsettle the minds of the Indians in that 
 
 region. 
 
 This reply so annoyed the Captain, that he refused the 
 well meant advice of Mr. Pambi'un that he should not un- 
 dertake to recross the Blue Mouiitair- in March snows, but 
 travel under the escort of Mr. F.i 'ctte, one of the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company's leaders, who was about starting foi' 
 the Nez Perce country by a safer if more circuitous route. 
 He therefore set out to return by the route he came, 
 aiid only arrived at camp in May, lS'.ic, after many dan- 
 gers and difficulties. From the Portne«^' Jliver, he then 
 proceeded with his camp to explore the Little Snake 
 Rivor, and Snake Lake ; and it was while so doing that 
 he fell in with his men just returned from Monterey. 
 
 Such was the relative position of the several fur com- 
 panies in the Rocky Mountains in 1834 ; and it w^as of 
 such matters that the leaders talked in the lodge of the 
 Boosliways, at rendezvous. In the nifantime Wyeth ar- 
 
 
 fi I 
 
 
 >^i Y/ *","•• 
 
.164 
 
 wvKTii ri tjii;kat — fout hall. 
 
 rived in the mountains with his goods, <as he had con- 
 tracted with Milton Sublette in the previous year. But 
 on his heels came Captain Sublette, also with goods, and 
 the Ptocky Mountain Company violated their contract with 
 Wyeth, and purchased of their old leader. 
 
 Thus was Wyeth left, with his goods on his hands, in a 
 country where it was impossible to sell them, and useless 
 to undertake an opposition to the already established fur- 
 traders and trappers. His indignation was great, and cer- 
 tainly Avas just. In his interview with the Rocky ' i 
 tain Company, in re])ly to their excuses for, and vniuica 
 tion of their conduct, his answer Avas: 
 
 "Gentlemen, 1 will roll a stone into your garden that 
 you will never be able to get out." 
 
 And he kept his promise ; for that same autumn he 
 moved on to tlie Snake River, and built Fort Hall, storing 
 his goods therein. The next year he sold out goods and 
 fort to the Hudson's Bay Company ; and the stone was in 
 the garden <^f tlie Rocky Mountain Fur Com})any that 
 they were never able to dislodge. When Wyeth had built 
 his fort and h.'ft it in cliarge of an agent, he dispatched a 
 party of trappers to hunt in the Big Blackfoot countrv. 
 under Joseph Gale, who had previously been in the ser 
 vice of the Rocky Mountain Company, and of whom we 
 shall learn more hereafter, while he set out for the Co- 
 lumbia to meet his vessel, and establish a salmon fishery 
 The fate of ihat enterprise has already been recordtni 
 
 As for Bonneville, he made one more effort to ivach tk 
 lower Coluraoia; failing, however, a second tinK\ f^vr th«' 
 same reason as before — he could not subs^i^^t himself and 
 company in a country where even evcrv Indian refused to 
 sell to him either furs or provisions. After hv^ir.g redui^v 
 to horse-flesh, and finding no enoou)^v*W<^'^ that his con 
 dition would be improved farthvM' d*,v^u the river, be 
 
HP 
 
 DIVISION OF TERRITORY. 
 
 165 
 
 turned back once more from about Wallah- Wallali, and 
 returned to the mountains, and from there to the east in 
 the following year. A company of his trappers, liowever, 
 continued to hunt for him east of the mountains for two 
 or three years longer. 
 
 The rivahy between the Rocky Mountain and American 
 Companies was this year diminished by their mutually 
 agi'ociug to confine themselves to certain parts of the 
 country, which treaty continued for two years, when they 
 united in one company. They were then, with the excep- 
 tion of a few lone traders, the only competitors of the 
 Iludsion's IJay Company, for the fui'-trade of the West. 
 
 i 
 
166 
 
 A VISIT TO WYETH'S TRAPPERS. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 1834. The Rocky Mountain Company now confined 
 themselves to the country lying east of the mountains, 
 and upon the head-waters and tributaries of the Missouri, 
 a country very productive in furs, and furnishing abund- 
 ance 01 game. But it was also the moL '. dangerous of 
 all the northern fur-hunting territory, as it was the home 
 of those two nations of desperadoes, the Crows and 
 Blackfoct. During the two years in which the company 
 may have been said almost to reside there, desperate en 
 counters and hair-breadth escapes were incidents of daily 
 occurrence to some of the numerous trapping parties. 
 
 The camp had reached the Blackfoot country in the 
 autumn of this year, and the trappers were out in all 
 directions, hunting beaver in tlo/d numerous small streams 
 that flow into the Missouri. On a small branch of the 
 Gallatin Fork, some of the trappers fell .in with a party 
 of Wyetli's men, under Joseph Gale. When their neigh- 
 borhood became known to the Rocky Mountain camp, 
 Meek and a party of sixteen of his associates immediately 
 resolved to pay them a visit, and inquire into their expe- 
 rience since leaving rendezvous. These visit,: between 
 dilferent camps are usually seasons of great interest and 
 general rejoicing. But glad as Gale and his men were 
 to meet with old friends, when the first burst of hearty 
 greeting was over, they had but a sorry experience to re- 
 late. They had been out a long time. The Blackfeet 
 had used them badly — several men had been killed. 
 
THE VISITORS BECOME DKFENDEHS. 
 
 167 
 
 Their f'S'nns were out of order, their Jimniunition all but 
 exliaiisted ; they were destitute, or nearly so, of traps, 
 bliiukets, knives, everything. They were what the Indian 
 and the mountain-man call "very poor," 
 
 Half the night was spent in recounting all that had 
 passed in both companies since the fall hunt began. Little 
 sympathy did Wyeth's men receive for their forlorn con- 
 dition, lor sympathy is repudiated by your true moun- 
 taineer for himself, nor will he fui-nish it to others. The 
 absurd and humorous, or the daring and reckless, side of 
 a story is the only one which is dwelt upon in narrating 
 Ink adventures. The laugh which is raised at his ex})ense 
 when he has a tale of woes to communicate, is a better 
 tonic to his dejected spirits than the gentlest pity would 
 be. Thus lashed into courage again, he is ready to de- 
 clare that all his troubles were or^y so much pastime. 
 
 It was this sort of cheer which the trapping p.irty con- 
 veyed to Wyeth's men on this visit, and it was gratefully 
 received, as being of the true kind. 
 
 In the morning the party set out to return to camp. 
 Meek and Liggit starting in advance of the others. I'hey 
 had not proceeded far whcii they were fii»ed on by a large 
 band of Blackfeet, who came upon them quite suddenly, 
 and thinking these two trappers easy game, set up a yell 
 and dashed at them. As Meek and Liggit turned back 
 and ran to Gale's camp, the Indians in full chase chained 
 on them, and rushed pell-mell into the midst of camp, 
 almost before tiiey had time to discover that they had 
 surprised so large a party of whites. So sudden was 
 th(Mr advent, that they had almost taken the camp before 
 the whites could recover from the confusion of the charge. 
 
 It was but a momentary shock, however. In another 
 instant the roar of twenty guns reverbtH-ated from the 
 mountains that rose high on either siiW of eiunp. The 
 
, , Ji)pi 1^* » I r III P| I 
 
 168 
 
 FIGHTING FOR LIFE. 
 
 Blackfect were taken in a snare ; but they rallied and fell 
 hack beyond the grove in which the camp was situated, 
 setting on (ire the dry grass as they went. The fire 
 quickly spread to the grove, and shot up the pine trees in 
 splendid columns of flame, that seemed to lick the face 
 of heaven. The Indians kept close behind the fire, shoot- 
 ing into camp whenever they could approach near enough, 
 the trappers replying by frequent volleys. The yells of 
 the savages, the noise of the flames roaring in the trees, 
 the bellowing of the giais, whose echoes rolled among 
 the hills, and the excitement of a battle for life, made the 
 scene one long to be remembered with distinctness. 
 
 Both sides fought with desperation^. The Blackfoot 
 blood was up — the trapper blood no less. Gale's men, 
 from having no ammunition, nor guns that were in order, 
 c(mld do little more than take charge of the horses, which 
 they led out into the bottom land to escape the fire, fight 
 the flames, and look after the camp goods. The few 
 whose guns were available, showed the game spirit, and 
 
 the 
 
 fight 
 
 hecame mterestmg 
 
 as an exhibition of what 
 
 mountain wliite men could do in a contest of one to ten, 
 with the crack warriors of the red race. It was, at any 
 time, a game party, consisting of Meek, Carson, HaAvkins, 
 Gale, Liggit, Rider, Robinson, Anderson, Russel, Larison, 
 Ward, Parmaley, Wade, Michael Head, and a few others 
 wl¥)se names have been forgotten. 
 
 The trappers being driven out of the grove by the fire, 
 were forced to take to the open ground. The Indians, 
 following the fire, had the advantage of the shelter 
 all'orded by the trees, and their shots made havoc among 
 the horses, most of which were killed because they could 
 not be taken. As for the trappers, they used the horses 
 for defence, making rifie-pitG behind them, when no other 
 covert could be found. In this manner the battle was 
 
THE TRAPPERS VICTORY. 
 
 !(;9 
 
 siistiiincd until tliroc o'clock in the aftcM-noon, witlioni l(»s?i 
 of lite to the whites, though severul incsn were wounded. 
 
 At three in the ufternoon, the Blaekfoot chief ordered 
 a retreat, calling out to the tra])per8 that they would {i<i:ht 
 110 more. Though their loss had been heavy, they still 
 rrrcatly outnumbered the whites ; nor would the condition 
 of the arms and the small amount of ammunition left 
 j)ormit the trappers to pursue them. The Indians were 
 severely beaten, and no longer in a condition to fight, all 
 of which was irighly satisfactory to the victors. The oidy 
 regret was, that Bridger's camp, widen had become aware 
 during the day that a battle was going on in the neigh- 
 borhood, did not arrive early enough to exterminate the 
 whole band. As it was, the big ■.,. .i.-p only came up in 
 time to assist in taking care of the wounded. The de- 
 struction of their horses put an end to the independent 
 existence of Gale's brigade, which joined itself and its 
 fortunes to Bridger's ccmmand for the remainder of the 
 year. Had it not been for the fortunate visit of the trap- 
 pers to Gale's camp, without doubt every man in it would 
 have perished at the hands of the Blackfcet : a [)iece of 
 had fortune not unaecordant with that which seemed to 
 [lUi'sue the enterprises set on foot by the active but un- 
 Kicky New England trader. 
 
 Not long after this battle with the Blackfeet, Meek and 
 a trapper named Crow, with two Shawnees, went over 
 into the Crow Country to trap on Pryor's River, a branch 
 of the Yellowstone. On coming to the pass in the moun- 
 tains between the Gallatin Fork of the Missouri and the 
 great bend in the Yellowstone, called Pryor's Gap, Meek 
 rode forward, with the mad-cap spirit strong in him, to 
 ■ have a little fun with the boys," and advancing a short 
 distance into the pass, wheeled suddenly, and came racing 
 back, whooping and yelling, to make his comrades think 
 
 * 
 
 m 
 
 ■^m 
 
JJiu.'i tJ 11 i.uimw> ' 
 
 170 
 
 CHASED BY INDIANS — A BLACKFOOT AMBUSH, 
 
 he had di.scovered Indians. And lo! as if his yells had 
 invoked them Ironi the roeks and trees, a war party sud- 
 denly emerged from the pass, on the heels of the jester, 
 and what had been sport speedily became earnest, as the 
 trajjpers turned their horses' heads and made oft' in the 
 direction of camj). Tiiey had a line race of it, and heard 
 other yells and war-whoops besides their own ; but they 
 contrived to elude their .pursuers, returning safe to camp. 
 
 This freak of Meek's was, after all, a fortunate ins])irii 
 tion, for had the four trappers entered the pass and coiiio 
 upon the war party of Crows, they would never have es- 
 caped alive. 
 
 A few days after, the same party set out again, and 
 succeeded in reaching Pryor's River unmolested, and set- 
 ting their traps. They remained some time in this neigh- 
 borhood trap})ing, but the season had become prott^' well 
 advanced, and they were thinking of returning to camp 
 for the winter. The Shawnees set out in one direction 
 to take up their traps. Meek and Crow in another. The 
 stream where thiur traps were set was bordered by thick- 
 ets of willow, wild cherry, and plum trees, and the hank 
 was about ten feet above the water at this season of the 
 
 uir. 
 
 yei 
 
 Meek had his traps set in the stream about midway be 
 tween two thickets. As he approached the river he ob 
 served with the qui( c eye of an experir iced moantain- 
 man, certain signs wh ;!» giive him little satisfaction. The 
 bulValo Avere moving olf as if disturbed ; a bear ran sud- 
 denly out of its covert among the willows. "^ 
 
 "1 told Crow," said Meek, 'Mluit I didn't like l> go in 
 there, lie laughed at mo, and called me acoAvard. 'All 
 the same,' T said ; I had no ftmcy for the place just then 
 — 1 didn't like the indications. But he kept jeering me, 
 and at last 1 got nuid and started in. Just as I got to my 
 
A RUNNIN(} FKiHT. 
 
 171 
 
 traps. 1 (li>!COverc(l tliut two red dovila war u wiitchiii<>- mo 
 I'roiii the shelter of the thicket to my h'lt, about two rods 
 ,)(V. W'hvn lliey saw that they war discovered they raised • 
 tlieir guns and tired. I turned my horse's head at the 
 sunc instant, and one ball ])assed tliroui;h liis neck, under 
 the neck bone, and the other through his Avithers, just 
 forward of my saddle. 
 
 "Seeing that they had not hit me, one of them ran up 
 with a s]) 1' to spear me. My horse war rearing and pitch- 
 ing from the pain of his wounds, so that I could withdiih- 
 culty govern him ; but I had my gun laid across my arm, 
 and wh(!n 1 tired I killed the rascal with the sjjear. Up 
 to that moment I had supposed that them two war all 1 
 had to deal with. But as 1 got my horse turned round, 
 with my arm raised to fire at the other red devil, I encoun- 
 tered the main party, forty-nine of them, Avho war in the 
 bed of the stream, and had been covered by the bank. 
 They fired a volley at me. Eleven balls passed through 
 my blanket, nnder my arm, Avhich war raised. I thought 
 it time to run, and run I did. Crow war about two hun- 
 dred yards off. So quick had all this happened, that he 
 had not stirred from the spot whar I left him. When I 
 came up to him I called out that I must get on behind 
 him, for my horse war sick and staggering. 
 
 " 'Try him again,' said Crow, who war as anxious to be 
 off as I war. I did try him agin, and sure enough, he got 
 tip a gallop, jind away we went, the Blackfeet after us. 
 But being mounted, we had the advantage, and soon dis- 
 taiieed them. Before we had run a mile, I had to disniount 
 ■iiid bi'ciithe my horse. We war in a narrow ])ass whar it 
 war iinpossible to hide, so when the Indians came up with 
 us, as they did, while I war dismounted we took sure aim 
 and killed the two foremost ones. Before the others could 
 get close enough to fire we war off agin. It didn't take 
 
iMj| i » ^ r MH ■ ! ■■ 
 
 172 
 
 f:HCAPE. 
 
 miu'li \\r<^\n<f to mako my horse go then, for the yolls of 
 them Hliicklbet spurred liim on. 
 
 "Wlieii we had run another mile I dismounted agin, for 
 fear that my horse would give out, and agin we war over- 
 taken. Them Blackleetare powerful runners: — no better 
 than us mountain-men, though. This time we served 
 them just as we did before. We picked off two of the 
 foremost, and then went on, the rest whooping after us, 
 We war overtaken a third time in the same manner ; and 
 the third time two lilackfeet fell dead in advance. At this, 
 they took the hint. Six warriors already gone for two 
 white scalps and two horses; they didn't know how mam- 
 more would go in the same way. And I reckon they bad 
 run about all they wanted to, anyway." 
 
 It is only necessary to add that Meek and Crow arrived 
 safely at camp; and that the Shawnees came in after a day 
 or two all right. Soon after the whole command under 
 Bridgcr moved on to the Yellowstone, nnd went into win- 
 ter camp in the great bend of that ri/er, where buffalo 
 were plenty, and cotton-wood was in abundance. '^^^^ ^^ 
 
 1835. Towards spring, however, the game had nearly 
 all disappearc i from the neighborhood of the camp ; and 
 the hunters were forced to follow the buffalo in their mi- 
 gration eastward. On one of these expeditions a party 
 of six trappers, including Meek, and a man named Bose, 
 made their camp on Clarke's fork of the Yellowstone. 
 The first night in camp Rose had a dream with which he 
 was very much impressed. He dreamed of shaking hands 
 with a large white bear, which insisted on taking his right 
 hand for that friendly ceremony. He had not given it 
 very willingly, for he knew too much about bears in gen- 
 eral to desire to be on very intimate terms with them. 
 
 Seeing that the dream troubled Rose, who was supersti- 
 tiously inclined, Meek resorted to that " certain medicine 
 
A SIN(5ULAR DREAM AND ITS INTKItl'HKTATION. 
 
 \7:) 
 
 lor iniiids disciiscd" which was in use in the nioimtains, and 
 added to the distress of Hose his interpretation, in the 
 s|)iril (d' ridiewle, tellinj^' liiin that he was an adept in the 
 matter ol' dreams, and that unless lie, Rose, was very niind- 
 t'ul of himself that day, he would shake hands with IJcel- 
 ZL'bul) before he slept again. 
 
 With tins conU()rtin<^- assurance. Rose set out with the 
 rcinaiiidcr of the party to hunt hidhdo. They liad pro 
 cooded alfout three miles from eanij). Rose riding in ad- 
 vance, when they suddenly encountered a company of 
 Biackfeet, nine in number, spies'from a war party of one 
 hundred and fifty, that was prowling and marauding 
 dirough the country on the lookout for small parties fi'om 
 tbo camp of Bridgcr. The Jilackfeet lired on the i)arty 
 as it came up, from their place of concealment, a ball strik- 
 ing Rose's right arm, and breaking it at the elbow. This 
 caused his gun to fall, and an Indian sprang forward and 
 raised it up quickly, aiming it at Meek. The ball passed 
 through his cap without doing any other harm. By this 
 time the trappers were made aware of an ambuscade; but 
 how numerous the enemy was they could not determine. 
 However, as the rest, who were well mounted, turned to 
 lly, Meek, who was riding an old mule that had to be beaten 
 over tlie head to make it go, seeing that he was going to 
 l)e left behind, called out lustily, " hold on, boys ! There's 
 not m;(iiy f>F thera. Let's stop and fight 'em;" at the 
 same tine poinding the mule over the head, but without 
 effect, i'lie Indians saw the predicament, and ran up to 
 seize tlie mule by the bridle, but the moment the mule got 
 wind of the savages, away h'^ went, racing like a thorough- 
 bred, jumping impediments, and running right over a ra- 
 vine, which was fortunately filled with snow. This move- 
 ment brought Meek out ahead. 
 
 The other men then began to call out to Meek to stop 
 
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174 
 
 MEEK 8 MULE STORY. 
 
 and fight. "Run for your lives, boys," roarod Meek back 
 at them, '' there's ten thousand of them ; tliey'll kill every 
 one of you ! " 
 
 The mule had got his head, and there was no more stop 
 ping him than there had been starting him. On he went 
 in the direction of the Yellowstone, while th(; others made 
 for Clarke's Fork. On arriving at the former river, Meek 
 found that some of the pack hor.ses had followed him, 
 and others the rest of the party. This had divided the 
 Indians, three or four of whom were on his trail. Spring 
 ing off his mule, he threw his blankets down on the ice, 
 and by moving them alternately soon crossed the mule 
 over to the opposite side, just in time to avoid a bullet that 
 came whistling after him. As the Indians could not fol 
 low, he pursued his way to camp in safety, arriving late 
 that evening. The main party were already in and expect 
 ing him. Soon after, the buffalo hunters returned to the 
 big camp, minus some pack horses, but with a good story 
 to tell, at the expense of Meek, and which he enjoys tell- 
 ing of himself to this day. 
 
T 
 
 FIIIST LOVE. — liEAUTl OF UMENTUCKEN. 
 
 175 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 1835. Owing to the high rate of pay which Meek was 
 now able to command, he began to think of imitating the 
 t'xaniplc of that distinguished order, the free trappers, to 
 wliieli he now belonged, and setting up a lodge to himself 
 as a family man. The writer of this veracious history has 
 never been able to obtain a full and particular account of 
 our hero's earliest love adventures. This is a subject on 
 wliich, in common with most mountain-men, he observes a 
 hi'coming reticence. But of one thing we feel quite well 
 assured: that from the time when the young Shoshonie 
 hcauty assisted in the rescue of himself and Sublette from 
 the execution of the death sentence at the hands of her 
 |)onple, Meek had always cherished a rather more than 
 tViendly regard for the "Mountain Lamb." 
 
 But Sublette, with wealth and power, and the privileges 
 of a Booshway, had hastened to secure her for himself; 
 and Meek had to look and long from afiir off, until, in the 
 year of which wo are writing, Milton Subletie was forced 
 to leave the mountains and repair to an eastern city for 
 surgical aid ; having received a very troublesome wound 
 in the leg, which was only cured at last by amput^ition. 
 
 Whether it was the act of a gay Lothario, or whether 
 the law of divorce is even more easy in the mountains 
 than in Indiana, we have always judiciously refrained from 
 iiKjuiring; but this we do know, upon the word of Meek 
 linnscir, no sooner was Milton's back turned, than his friend 
 12 
 
 i 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 i 
 
ITG 
 
 IIEIl DRESa, FIOHSE, AND KQUIPMRNTS, 
 
 SO insinuated himself into the good graces of his Isabel 
 as Sublette was wont to name the lovely Umentuckcn, that 
 she consented to join her fortunes to those of the handsome 
 young trapper without even the ceremony of ser\ ing a 
 notice on her former lord. As their season of bliss only 
 extended over one brief year, this chapter shall be entirely 
 devoted to recording such facts as have been imparted to 
 us concerning this free trapper's wife. 
 
 " She was the most beautiful Indian woman I ever saw,'' 
 says Meek: "and when she was mounted on her dapple 
 gray horse, which cost me three hundred d(;llars, she 
 made a fine show. She wore a skirt of beautiful blue 
 broadcloth, and a bodice and leggins of scarlet cloth, of 
 the very finest make. Her hair was braided and fell over 
 her shoulders, a scarlet silk handkerchief, tied on hood 
 fashion, covered her head; and the finest embroidered 
 moccasins her feet. She rode like all the Indian women, 
 astride, and carried on one side of the saddle the toma- 
 hawk for war, and on the other the pipe of peace. 
 
 "The name of her horse was "All Fours." His accou- 
 trements were as fine as his rider's. The saddle, crupper, 
 and bust girths cost one hundred and fifty dollars; the 
 bridle fifty dollars; and the mu.sk-a-moots fifty dollars more. 
 All those articles were ornamented with fine cut glass beads, 
 porcupine quills, and hawk's bells, that tinkled at every step. 
 Her blankets were of scarlet and blue, and of the finest 
 quality. Such was the outfit of the trapper's wife, Umen- 
 tucken^ Tnkutey Undevivatsj/^ the Lamb of the Mountains." 
 
 Although Umentuckcn was beautiful, and had a name 
 signifying gentleness, she was not without a will and a 
 spirit of her own, when the occasion demanded it. Whili; 
 the camp was on the Yellowstone River, in the summer of 
 1835, a party of women left it to go in search of berries, 
 which were often dried and stored for winter use by the 
 
accou- 
 upper, 
 ■s; the 
 s more, 
 
 beads, 
 ry step. 
 iG finest 
 
 Umen- 
 ntains." 
 a name 
 I and a 
 
 While 
 nmer of 
 berries, 
 3 by the 
 
 v'^: 
 
■' M 
 
 UMENTUCKEN'S QUARKEL WITH TUE TRAPPER. 
 
 177 
 
 riulian women. Umcntucken accom])anied this party, 
 which was attacked by a band of Blaekfect, some of the 
 s([uaws being taken prisoners. But Umentucken saved 
 liersclf by flight, and by swimming the Yellowstone while 
 a hundred guns were leveled on her, the bullets whistling 
 about licr cars. 
 
 At another time she distinguished herself in camp by a 
 quarrel with one of the trappers, in which she came oft' 
 with flying colors. The trapper was a big, bullying Irish- 
 man named O'Fallen, who had purchased two prisoners 
 from the Snake Indians, to be kept in a state of slavery, 
 after the manner of the savages. The prisoners were 
 Utes, or Utahs, who soon contrived to escape. O'Fallen, 
 imagining that Umentucken had liberated them, threatened 
 to whip her, and armed himself with a horsewhip for that 
 purpose. On hearing of these threats Umentucken re- 
 paired to her lodge, and also armed herself, but with a 
 pistol. When O'Fallen approached, the whole camp look- 
 ing on to see the event, Umentucken slipped out at the 
 back of the lodge and coming around confronted him be- 
 fore he could enter. ' ''f^-- 
 
 "Coward!" she cried. "You would whip the wife of 
 Meek. He is not here to defend me ; not here to kill you. 
 But I ^hall do that for myself," and with that she presented, 
 the pistol to his head. O'Fallen taken by surprise, and 
 having every reason to believe she would keep her word, 
 and kill him on the spot, was obliged not only to apologize, 
 but to beg to have his life spared. This Umentucken con- 
 sented to do on condition of his sufficiently bumbling him- 
 self, which he did in a very shame-faced manner ; and a shout 
 then went up from the whole camp — " hurrah for the 
 Mountain Lamb!" for nothing more delights a mountain- 
 eer than a show of pluck, especially in an unlooked for 
 quarter. 
 
 \vl 
 
 it* 
 
 
 trij 
 
 \ n 
 
 1 !^ 
 
 i rl 
 
 i 
 
 &,:. 
 
178 UMENTUCKEN CAPTUUED BV CROWS. — HKR KE80UE. 
 
 Tho Indian wives of tlio trappers wore often in great 
 peril, as well as their lords. Whenever it was eonveniout 
 they followed them on their lon<^ marehes through dun- 
 fijerous countries. But if the trapper was only f^oing out 
 for a few days, or if the march before him was more than 
 usually dangerous, the wife remained with the main camp. 
 
 During this year of which we are writing, a considera- 
 ble party had been out on Powder River hunting buffalo, 
 taking their wives along with them. When on the return, 
 just before reaching camp, Umentueken was missed from 
 the cavalcade. She had fallen behind, and been taken 
 prisoner by a ])arty of twelve Crow Indian.s. As soon as 
 she wa« missed, a volunteer party mounted their buffalo 
 horses in such haste that they waited not for .saddle or bri- 
 dle, but snatched only a halter, and started back in pursuit. 
 They had not run a very long distance when they discov- 
 ered poor Umentueken in the midst of her jubilant captors, 
 who were delighting their eyes with gazing at her fine 
 feathers, and promising themselves very soon to pluck the 
 gay bird, and a])propriate her trinkets to their own use. 
 
 Their delight was premature. Swift on their heels came 
 an avenging, as well as a saving spirit. Meek, at the 
 head of his six comrades, no sooner espied the drooping 
 form of the Lamb, than he urged his horse to the top of 
 its speed. The horse was a spirited creature, that seeing 
 something wrong in all these hasty maneuvers, took fright 
 and adding terror to good will, ran with the speed of mad- 
 ness right in amongst the startled Crows, who doubtless 
 regarded as a great " medicine " so fearless a warrior. It 
 was now too late to be prudent, and Meek began the bat- 
 tle by yelling and firing, taking care to hit his Indian. 
 The other trappers, emulating the bold example of their 
 leader, dashed into the melee and a chance medley fight 
 was carried on, in which Umentueken escaped, and another 
 
 ^^ i 
 
 4 
 
AN INHULT TO UMENTUCKEN AVENGED HY MEEK. 17!) 
 
 n 
 
 Crow bit the dust. Finding th:it thoy wore getting the 
 worst of the light, the liuliuns at length took to fiiglit, 
 and the tra[)pers retnrned to eamp rejoicing, and conipli- 
 inciiling Meek on his galhuitry in attacking the Crows 
 siiij;lo -handed. 
 
 "1 took their compliments quite naturally," says Meek, 
 "nor did I think it war worth while to explain to them 
 that 1 couldn't hold my horse." 
 
 The Indians are lordly and tyrannical in their treatment 
 of women, thinking it no shame to beat them cruelly ; 
 even taking the liberty of striking other women than those 
 belonging to their own families. While the camp wjis trav- 
 eling through the Crow country in the spring of 183G, a 
 party of that nation paid a visit to Bridger, bringing skins 
 to trade for blankets and ammunition. The bargaining 
 went on quite pleasantly for some time ; but one of 
 the braves who was promenading about camp inspecting 
 whatever came in his way, chanced to strike Umentucken 
 with a whip he carried in his hand, by way of displaying 
 his sui)eriority to squaws in general, and trappers' wives 
 in particular. It was an unlucky blow for the brave, for 
 in another instant he rolled on the gro rnd, shot dead by 
 a bullet from Meek's gun. 
 
 At this rash act the camp was in confusion. Yells from 
 the Crows, who took the act as a signal for war; hasty 
 questions, and cries of command ; arming and shooting. 
 Il was some time before the case could be explained or 
 understood. The Crows had two or three of their party 
 shot ; the whites also lost a man. After the unpremedita- 
 ted tight was over, and the Crows departed not thoroughly 
 satisfied with the explanation, Bridger went round to 
 Mi'ek's lodge. ' • • 
 
 " Well, you raised a hell of a row in camp ; " said the 
 commander, rolling out his deep bass voice in the slow 
 
 I 
 
 
 ^"■1 
 
 % 
 
 
 i .in 
 
lilf 
 
 180 THK FKMALK KLKMKNT — DEATH OF UMENTUCKEN.' 
 
 monotonous tonos which mountain men very ({uickly ac- 
 quire from the Indians. 
 
 " Very sorry, Bridger ; but coukln't help it. No devil 
 of an Indian shall strike Meek's wife." 
 
 " But you got a man killed." 
 
 " Sorry for the man ; couldn't help it, though, Bridger." 
 
 And in truth it was too late to mend the matter. Fear- 
 ing, however, that the Crows would attempt to avenge 
 themselves for the losses they had sustained, 13ridger hur- 
 ried his camp forward, and got out of their neighborhood 
 as quickly as possible. 
 
 So much for the female clement in the camp of the 
 Rocky Mountain trapper. Wonum, it is said, has held the 
 apple of discord, from mother Eve to Umentucken, and 
 in consonance with this theory, Bridger, doubtless, con 
 sidered the latter as the primal cause of the unfortunate 
 " row in camp," rather than the brutality of the Crow, or 
 the imprudence of Meek. 
 
 But Umontucken's career was nearly run. In the fol- 
 lowing summer she met her death by a Bannack arrow; 
 dying like a warrior, although living she was only a woman. 
 
 ^/^^V,.m 
 
 \ 
 
 - i 
 
ADVENT OF TWO MISSIONAHIES. 
 
 181 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 1835. The rondozvous of the Hooky Mountain Com- 
 ])iuiy scUlom took place without combining with its many 
 wild elements, some other more civilized and refined. 
 Arti.'^ts, botanists, travelers, and hunters, from the busy 
 world outside the wilderness, frequently claimed the com- 
 j)iUiioiishi[), if not the hospitality of the fur companies, in 
 tliL'ir wanderin<:;s over prairies and among mountains. Up 
 to the year 1835, these visitors had been of the classes 
 just named ; men traveling either for the love of adven- 
 ture, to prosecute discoveries in science, or to add to art 
 the treasure of new scenes and subjects. 
 
 ]3ut in this year there appeared at rendezvous two gen- 
 tleinoii, who had accompanied the St. Louis Company in 
 its outward trip to the mountains, whose object was not 
 the procurement of pleasure, o^ the improvement of sci- 
 ence. They had come to found missions among the In- 
 dians ; the Rev. Samuel Parker and Rev. Dr. Marcus 
 \\' hit man ; the first a scholarly and fastidious man, and 
 the other possessing all the boldness, energy, and contempt 
 of fastidiousness, which would have made him as good a 
 mountain leader, as he was an energetic servant of the 
 Anierican Board of Foreign Missions. 
 
 The cause which had brought these gentlemen to the 
 wilfl(!rness was a little incident connected with the fur 
 trade. Four Flathead Indians, in the year 1832, having 
 lieard enough of the Christian religion, from the few de- 
 
 tl ■: \ 
 
 RV. ' 
 
 'v! 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 ' m 
 
 I , : ■ 
 
 . ) 4 
 
182 
 
 HONNKVILLE 8 ACCOUNT OF TlIK NEZ I'KIICKS. 
 
 l.i 
 
 vout men connected with llic fur eonipaiiies, to desire to 
 know more, performed u v-inter journey to St. Louis, and 
 there made iiujuiry about the white nuuTs reli<^don. This 
 incident, wliich to any one ae(iuuinted with Indiun ehan.v;- 
 ter, would a))|)ear a very natural one, when it became 
 known to Chri.stian churches in the United States, excited 
 a very lively interest, and seemed to call upon them like 
 a voice out of heaven, to fly to the rescue of ])erisliing 
 heathen souls. The Methodist Church Avas the lirst to re- 
 81)on(l. When W'ycth returned to the mountains in 1834, 
 four missionaries ,iccom])anied him, destined for the vallc) 
 of the Wallamet River in Urej^^on. In the Ibllowing year, 
 the Presbyterian Church sent out its a^^ents, the two ^m- 
 tlemen above mentioned; one of whom, Dr. Whitman, 
 subsequently located near Fort Walla-AValla. 
 
 The account given by Capt. Bonneville of the Flatheads 
 and Nez Perces, as he found them in 1832, before mission 
 ary labor had been among them, throws some light on the 
 incident of the journey to St. Louis, which so touched tlic 
 Christian heart in the f nited States. After relating his 
 surprise at finding that the Nez Perces observed certain 
 sacred days, he continues : " A few days afterwards, fonr 
 of them signified that they were about to hunt. ' What!" 
 exclaimed the captain, ' without guns or arrows ; and 
 with only one old spear ? What do you expect to kill? 
 They smiled among themselves, but made no answer. 
 Preparatory to the chase, they performed some religious 
 rights, and offered up to the Great Spirit a few short 
 prayers for safety and success; then having received the 
 blessing of their wives, they leaped upon their horses and 
 departed, leaving the wdiole party of Christian spectators 
 amazed and rebuked by this lesson of faith and depend- 
 ence on a supreme and benevolent Being. Acii imied 
 as I had heretofore been to find the wretched ludii':; rev- 
 
AN ENTHUHIAflTIC VIEW OK INDIAN CIIAUACTEIl. 
 
 1H3 
 
 cling in l)l()(»(l, and stiiiiKMl by every viee whicli can dc- 
 ..•iiulc limniuj nature, 1 could scarcely realize the .sc(Mie 
 wliirli 1 liiid witnessed. Wonder at such unalVectetl ten- 
 derness and pi(*ty, where it was least to have been sought, 
 contended in all our bosoms with shame and confusion, at 
 ren,ivin<jf such pure and wholesome insuu Mens IVom 
 creatures so far below us in all the arts and comforts 
 of life. 
 
 " Siinjdy to call these people relifi^ious,' continaed Hornie- 
 ville, ' ^ wuld convey but a faint idea of th' deep hue of 
 niety and devotion which pervades their whole conduct. 
 'flieir honesty is immaculate, and their purity of purpose, 
 and their observance of the rites of their relijjfion, are 
 most uniform and remarkable. They are certainly more 
 like a iKition of saints than a horde of savage.«." 
 
 This was a very enthusiastic view to take of the Nez 
 Perce character, which appeared all the bri^rhter to the 
 Captain, by contrast with the savage life which he had 
 witnessed in other places, and even by cimtrast with the 
 conduct of the white trappers. But the Nez Perces and 
 Flatheads were, intellectually and morally, an exception 
 to all the Indian tribes west of the Missouri River. Lewis 
 and Clarke found them different from any others ; the fur- 
 traders and the mi^Liionaries found them different; and 
 tliey remain at this day an honorable example, for probity 
 and piety, to both savage and civilized peoples 
 
 To account for this superiority is indeed difficult. The 
 only clue to the cause is in the followdng stat-^mcnt of 
 Bonneville's. " It would appear," he says, ' that they had 
 imbibed some notions of the Christian faith from Catholic 
 missionaries and traders who had been among them. They 
 even had a rude calender of the fasts and festivals of the 
 Uomish Church, and some traces of its ceremonials. These 
 
 
184 
 
 THE INDUNS IDEA OF A GOD. 
 
 have become blended with their own wild rites, and pre- 
 sent a strange medley, civilized and barbarous." 
 
 Poinding that these people among whom he was thrown 
 exhibited such remarkable traits of charactler, Captain 
 Bonneville exerted himself to make them acquainted with 
 the history and spirit of Christianity. To these explana- 
 tions they listened with preat eagerness. " Many a time," 
 he says, " was my litde lodge thronged, or rather piled 
 with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over 
 the other, until there was no further room, .all listening 
 with greedy ears to the wonders which the Great Spirit 
 had revealed to the wdiite man. No other subject gave 
 them half the satisfaction, or commanded half the atten- 
 tioi; ; and but few scenes of my life remain so freshly on 
 my memory, or are so pleasurably recalled to my contempla- 
 tion, as these hours of intercourse with a distant and be- 
 nighted race in the midst of the desert." 
 
 It was the interest awakened by these discourses of 
 Captain Bonneville, and possibly by Smith, and other 
 traders who happened to fall in with the Nez Perces and 
 Flatheads, that stimulated those four Flatheads to under- 
 take the journey to St. Louis in search of information; 
 and this it was which resulted in the establishment of 
 missions, both in western Oregon, and among the tribes 
 inhabiting the country between the two great branches of 
 the Columbia. 
 
 The trait of Indian character which Bonneville, in his 
 pleased surprise at the apparent piety of the Nez Perces 
 and Flatheads, fiiiled to observe, and which the missiona- 
 ries themselves for a long time remained oblivious to, was 
 the material nature of their religious views. The Indian 
 judges of all things by the material results. If he is pos- 
 sessed of a good natural intelligence and powers of obser- 
 vation, he soon discovers that the God of the Indian is 
 
THE Indian's religion — material good desired. 185 
 
 ])Ut a feeble deity ; for does he not perg^t the Indian to 
 be defeated in war ; to starve, and to freeze ? Do not the 
 hidian medicine men often fail to save life, to win battles, 
 to curse their enemies ? The Indian's God, he argues, 
 must be a good deal of a humbug. He sees the white 
 men faring much better. They have guns, ammunition, 
 blankets, knives, everything in plenty ; and they are suc- 
 cessful in war ; are skillful in a thousand things the Indian 
 knows nothing of. To be so blest implies a very wise and 
 powerful Deity. To gain all these things they are eager 
 to learn about the white man's God ; are willing to do 
 whatever is necessary to please and propitiate Him. Hence 
 their attentiveness to the white man's discourse about his 
 religion. Naturally enough they were struck with won- 
 der at the doctrine of peace and good will; a doctrine so 
 different from the law of blood by which the Indian, in 
 his natural state, lives. Yet if it is good for the white 
 men, it must be good for him ; at all events he is anxious 
 to try it. 
 
 That is the course of reasoning by which an Indian is 
 led to inquire into Christianity. It is a desire to better 
 his physical, rather than his spiritual condition ; for of the 
 latter he has but a very faint conception. He was accus- 
 tomed to desire a material Heaven, such a world beyond 
 the grave, at. he could only imagine from his earthly ex- 
 perience. Heaven was happiness, and happiness was 
 plenty; thciofore the most a good Indian could desire 
 was to go where there should forevermore be plenty. 
 
 Such was the Indian's view of religion, and it coulO be 
 no other. Until the wants of the body have been sup- 
 plied by civilization, the wants of the soul do not develop 
 themselves : and until then the savage is not prepared 
 to understand Christianity. This is the law of Nature and 
 of God. Primeval man was a savage ; and it was little 
 
 1 >'3l 
 
 ;rii 
 
 ! n 
 
186 THE FIRST SERMON IN TUE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 m 
 
 by little, throngh thousands of years, that Christ was re- 
 vealed. P]vcry child born, even now, is a savage, and has 
 to be taught civilization year after year, until he arrives 
 at the possibility of comprehending spiritual religion. So 
 every full grown barbarian is a clild in moral develop 
 ment; and to expect him to comprehend those mysteries 
 over which the world has agonized for centuries, is to 
 commit the gravest error. Into this error fell all the mis- 
 sionaries who came to the wilds that lay beyond the Rocky 
 Mountains. They undertook to teach religion first, and 
 more simple matters afterward — building their edifice like 
 the Irishman's chimney, by holding up the top brick, and 
 putting the others under it. Failure was the result of 
 such a process, as the record of the Oregon Missions suffi- 
 ciently proves. . 
 
 The reader will pardon this digression — made necessary 
 by the part which one of the gentlemen present at tliis 
 year's rendezvous, was destined to take in the history 
 which we are writing. Shortly after the arrival of Messrs. 
 Parker and Whitman, rendezvous broke up. A party, to 
 which Meek was attached, moved in tlie direction of tlie 
 Snake River head-waters, the missionaries accompanying 
 them, and after making two camps, came on Saturday eve 
 to Jackson's Little Hole, a small mountain valley near the 
 larger one commonly known as Jackson's Hole. 
 
 On the following day religious services were held in the 
 Rocky Mountain Camp. A scene more unusual could 
 hardly have transpired than that of a company of trap- 
 pers listening to the preaching of the Word of God, 
 Very little pious reverence marked the countenances of 
 that wild and motley congregation. Curiosity, incredulit)'. 
 sarcasm, or a mocking levity, were more plainly percepli 
 ble in the expression of the men's faces, than either devo 
 tion or the longing expectancy of men habitually deprived 
 
1 
 
 THE REV. DK. WHITMAN. 
 
 187 
 
 of what they once highly valued. The Indians alone 
 showed by their eager listening that they desired to be- 
 come acquainted with the mystery of the "Unknown 
 (lod. 
 
 Tlic Rev. Samuel Parker preached, and the men were 
 ;i.s politely attentive as it was in their reckless natures to 
 he, until, in the midst of the discourse, a band of buifalo 
 apiJOfircd in the valley, when the congregation incon- 
 tinently broke up, without staying for a bchcdiction, and 
 every man made haste after his horse, gun, and rope, 
 leaving ^Ir. Parker to discourse to vacant ground. i 
 
 The run was both exciting and successful. About 
 twenty fine buffaloes were killed, and the choice pieces 
 brought to camp, cooked and eaten, amidst the merriment, 
 mixed Avith somel' "ng coarser, of the hunters. On this 
 noisy rejoicing Mr Parker looked Avith a sober aspect: 
 ;ind following the dictates of his religious feeling, he re- 
 buked the sabbath-breakers quite severely. Better for his 
 influence among the men, if he had not done so, or had 
 not eaten so heartily of the tender-loin afterwards, a cir- 
 cumstance wdiicli his irreverent critics did not fail to re- 
 mark, to his prejudice ; and upon the principle that the 
 "partaker is as bad as the thief," they set down his lecture 
 on sabbath-breaking as nothing better than pious humbug. 
 
 Dr. Marcus Whitman was another style of man. What- 
 ever ho thought of the wald ways of the mountain-men 
 he discreetly kept to himself, preferring to teach by ex- 
 inn{)le rather than precept; and ohowing no fastidious 
 contempt for any sort of rough duty he might be called 
 ui)on to perform. So aptly indeed had he turned his hand 
 to all manner of camp service on the journey to the moun- 
 tains, that this abrogation of clerical dignity had become 
 a source of solicitude, not to say disapproval and displeas- 
 ure on the '- rt of his colleague ; and it was agreed be- 
 
 vt tl 
 
188 
 
 THE MISSIONARIES REXUllN TO THE STATES. 
 
 tween them that the Doctor should return to the states 
 vnih the St. Louis Company, to procure recruits for the 
 promising field of labor which they saw before them, 
 while Mr. Parker continued his journey to the Columbia 
 to decide upon the location of the missionary stations. 
 The difference of character of the two men was clearly 
 illustrated by the results of this understanding. Parlcer 
 went to Vancouver, where he was hospitably entertained, 
 and where he could in(piire into the workings of the mis- 
 sionary system as pursued by the Methodist missionaries. 
 His investigations not proving the labor to his taste, he 
 sailed the following summer for the Sandwich Islands, and 
 thence to New York ; leaving only a brief note for Doctor 
 Whitman, when he, with indefatigable exertions, arrived 
 that season among the Nez Perces with a missionary com- 
 pany, eager for the work which they hoped to make as 
 great as they believed it to be good. 
 
 >•/■ ... 
 
MEEK FALLS INTO THE HANDS OF CKOWS. 
 
 189 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 From the mountains about the head-waters of the 
 Snake River, Meek returned, with Bridger's brigade to 
 the Yellowstone country, where he fell into the hands of 
 the Crows. The story as he relates it, is as follows: 
 
 "I war trapping on the Rocky Fork of the Yellowstone. 
 I had been out from camp five days ; and war solitary and 
 alone, when I war discovered by a war party of Crows. 
 They had the prairie, and I war forced to run for the 
 Creek bottom ; but the beaver had throwed the water out 
 and made dams, so that my mule mired down. While I 
 war struggling in the marsh, the Indians came after me, 
 with tremendous yells; firing a random shot now and 
 then, as they closed in on me. 
 
 " When they war within about two rods of me, I brought 
 old Sail//, that is my gun, to my face, ready to fire, and 
 then die; for I knew it war death this time, unless Provi- 
 dence interferec^ tQ-'^save me : and I didn't think Provi- 
 dence wo;il(i do it. But the head chief, when he saw the 
 warlike looks of Sally, called out to me to put down my 
 gun, and I should live. 
 
 "Well, I liked to live, — being then in the prime of life; 
 and though it hurt me powerful, I resolved to part with 
 Salhj. I laid her down. As I did so, the chief picked her 
 lip, and one of the braves sprang at me with a spear, and 
 would have run me through, but the chief knocked him 
 down with the butt of my gun. Then they led* me forth 
 to the high plain on the south side of the stream. There 
 
 M 
 
 '1i 
 
190 
 
 QUESTIONED BY THE CHIEF. 
 
 \ : 
 
 they called a halt, and I was p,iven in charge of throe wo- 
 men, while the warriors formed a ring to smoke and con- 
 sult. This gave me an op])ortnnity to count them: they 
 numbered one hundred and eighty-seven men, nine boys, 
 and three women. 
 
 '"After a smoke of three long hours, the chief, who war 
 named 'The Bold,' called me in the ring, and said: 
 • " ' I have known the whites for a long time, and I know 
 them to be great liars, deserving death ; but if you will 
 tell the truth, you shall live.' 
 
 "Then I thought to myself, they will fetch the truth 
 out of me, if thar is any in me. But his highness con- 
 tinued : 
 
 " ' Tell me whar are the whites you belong to ; and what 
 is your captain's name.' 
 
 "I said 'Bridger is my captain's name; or, in the Crow 
 tongue, Casapy^'' the 'Blanket chief At this answer the 
 chief seemed lost in thought. At last he asked me — 
 
 " ' How many men has he ?' 
 
 "I thought about telling the truth and living; but I 
 said 'forty,' which war a tremendous lie; for thar war 
 two hundred and forty. At this answer The Fold laughed: 
 
 "'We will make them poor,' said he; 'and you shall 
 live, but they shall die.' 
 
 "I thought to myself, 'hardly ;' but I said nothing. He 
 then asked me whar I war to meet the camp, and I told 
 him:— and then how many days before the camp would 
 be thar ; which I answered truly, for I wanted them to 
 find the camp. 
 
 - "It war now late in t le afternoon, and thar war a great 
 bustle, getting ready fc the march to meet Bridger. Two 
 big Indians mounted my mule, but the women made me 
 pack moccasins. The spies started first, and after awhile 
 the main mrty. Seventy warriors traveled ahead of me: 
 
BRIDGERS CAMP DISCOVERED. 
 
 191 
 
 I ^var placed with the women and boys ; and after lis the 
 balance of the braves. As we traveled along, the women 
 would prod me with sticks, and laugh, and say 'Masta 
 Shecla,' (which means white man,) 'Masta sheela very 
 poor now.' The fair sex war very much amused. 
 
 "We traveled that way till midnight, the two big bucks 
 riding my mule, and I packing moccasins. Then we 
 camped ; the Indians in a ring, with me in the centre, to 
 k(>ep me safe. I didn't sleep very well that night. I'd a 
 heap ratlier been in some other -place. 
 
 "The next morning we started on in the same order as 
 l)efoic : and the squaws making fun of me all day ; but I 
 kept mighty quiet. When we stopped to cook that eve- 
 ning, I Avar set to work, and war head cook, and head 
 Avaiter too. The third and the fourth day it war the same. 
 I felt pretty bad when we struck camp on the last day: for 
 I kncAV we must be coming near to Bridger, and that if 
 any thing should go wrong, my life would pay the forfeit. 
 
 "On the afternoon of the fourth day, the spies, who 
 war in advance, looking out from a high hill, made a sign 
 to the main party. In a moment all sat down. Directly 
 they got another sign, and then they got up and moved 
 on. I war as well up in Indian signs as they war ; and I 
 knew they' had discovered white men. What war worse, 
 I knew they would soon discover that I had been lying to 
 them. All I had to do then war to trust to luck. Soon we 
 came to the top of the hill, which overlooked the Yellow- 
 stone, from which I could see the plains below extending 
 as far as the eye could reach, and about three miles off, 
 the camp of my friends. My heart beat double quick 
 about that time ; and I once in a while put my hand to 
 my head, to feel if my scalp war thar. 
 
 "While I war watching our camp, I discovered that the 
 hoi&u guard had seen us,, for I knew the sign he would 
 13 .■^ 
 
 I 
 
 ■'in 
 
 
192 
 
 SIGNALING THE HORSE GUARD. 
 
 ■JK 
 
 make if he discovered Indians. I thought the camp a 
 splendid sight that evening. It made a powerful show to 
 me, who did not expect ever to see it after that day. And 
 it loar a fine sight any how, from the hill whar I stood. 
 About two hundred and fifty men, and women and chil- 
 dren in great numbers, and about a thousand horses and 
 mules. Then the beautiful plain, and the sinking sun; 
 and the herds of buffalo that could not be numbered; 
 and the cedar hills, covered with elk, — I never saw so fine 
 a sight as all that looked to me then ! 
 
 "When I turned my eyes on that savage Crow band, 
 and saw the chief standing with his hand on his mouth, lost 
 in amazement ; and beheld the warriors' tomahawks and 
 spears glittering in the sun, my heart war very little, 
 Directly the chief turned to me with a horrible scowl. 
 Said he : 
 
 " 'I promised that you should live if you told the truth; 
 but you have told me a great lie.' 
 
 " Then the warriors gathered around, with their toma- 
 hawks in their hands ; but I war showing off very brave, 
 and kept my eyes fixed on the horse-guard who war ap- 
 proaching the hill to drive in the horses. This drew th'' 
 attention of the chief, and the warriors too. Seeing the 
 the guard war within about two hundred yards of us, the 
 chief turned to me and ordered me to tell him to come 
 up. I pretended to do what he said; but instead of that 
 I howled out to him to stay off, or he would be killed; 
 and to tell Bridger to try to treat with them, and get me 
 away. 
 
 "As quick as he could he ran to camp, and in a few 
 minutes Bridger appeared, on his large white horse. He 
 came up to within three hundred yards of us, and called 
 out to me, asking who the Indians war. I answered 
 
SUCCESSFUL STRATEGY — CAPTURE OF LITTLE-GUN. 193 
 
 'Crou'S.' He then told me to say to the chief he wished 
 him to send one of his sub-chiefs to smoke with him. 
 
 "All this time my he.art beat terribly hard. I don't 
 know now why they didn't kill me at once ; but the head 
 chief seemed overcome with surprise. When I repeated 
 to him what Bridger said, he reflected a moment, and then 
 ordered the second chief, called Little-Gun, to go and 
 smoke Avith Bridger, But they kept on preparing for 
 war; getting on their paint and feathers, arranging their 
 scalp locks, selecting their arrows, and getting their am- 
 munition ready. 
 
 "While this war going on, Little-Gun had approached 
 to within about a hundred yards of Bridger; w icn, ac- 
 cording to the Crow laws of war, each war forced to strip 
 himself, and proceed the remaining distance in a state of 
 nudity, and kiss and embrace. While this interesting cere- 
 mony war being performed, five of Bridger's men had 
 followed him, keeping in a ravine until they got within 
 shooting distance, when they showed themselves, and cut 
 off the return of Little-Gun, thus making a prisoner of 
 him. '' " ■ ■ ' • " '■'■ 
 
 "If you think my heart did not jump up when I saw 
 that, you think wrong. I knew it war kill or cure, now. 
 Every Indian snatched a weapon, and fierce threats war 
 howled against me. But all at once about a hundred of 
 our trappers appeared on the scene. At the same time 
 Bridger called to me, to tell me to propose to the chief to 
 exchange me for Little-Gun. I explained to The Bold 
 what Bridger wanted to do, and he sullenly consented : 
 for, he said, he could not afford to give a chief for one 
 white dog's scalp. I war then allowed to go towards my 
 camp, and Liitle-Gun towards his; and the rescue I hardly 
 hoped for war accomplished. 
 
 "In the evening the chief, with forty of his braves, vis- 
 
 !*■-■>- 
 
 ■M 
 
 - i*«- 
 
194 
 
 13ESEIGED BVr BEARS A LAZY TUAPrEll. 
 
 itcd Bridgcr and made a treaty of tlircc inontlis. Thoj' 
 said they war formerly at war Avitli the wliites ; but that 
 they desired to be friendly with them now, so that to- 
 gether they might fight the lUaekfeet, who war every- 
 body's enemies. As for ine, they returned me my mule, 
 gun, and beaver paeks, and said my name slumld bo 
 Shiam Sha.spusia^ for I could out-lie the Crows." 
 
 In December, Bridgcr's commnnd went into wintor 
 quarters in the bend of the Yellowstone. Bufl'alo, elk, 
 and bear were in great abundance, all that fall and winter. 
 Before they went to camp, Meek, Kit Carson, Hawkins, 
 and Doughty w^erc trapping together on the Yellowstone, 
 about sixty miles below. They had made their temporary 
 camp in the ruins of an old fort, the walls <jf which were 
 about six feet high. One evening, after coming in from 
 setting their traps, they discovered three large grizzly 
 bears in the river bottom, not more than half a mile oil" 
 and Hawkins went out to shoot one. lie was successful 
 in killing one at the first shot, when the other two, taking 
 fright, ran towards the fort. As they came near enougii 
 to show that they were likely to invade camp, Meek and 
 Carson, not caring to have a bear fight, clanbered up a 
 cotton-wood tree close by, at the same time advising 
 Doughty to do the same. But Doughty was tired, and 
 lazy besides, and concluded to take his chances where lie 
 was ; so he rolled himself in his blanket and laid quite 
 still. The bears, on making the fort, reared up on their 
 hind legs and looked in as if mcdit'\ting taking it for a 
 defence. 
 
 The sight of Doughty lying rolled in his blanket, and 
 the monster grizzlys inspecting the fort, caused the tw 
 trappers who were safely perched in the cotton-wood to 
 make merry at Doughty's expense ; saying all the mirtli- 
 provoking things they could, and then advising him not 
 
 -'I 
 
1 
 
 TlIK DECOY OF THE DELAWARES. 
 
 195 
 
 to liiuLcli, Tor fciir the boars sliould seize him. Poor 
 Dounlity, agoni/iug l)etwcen suppressed laughter and 
 growing fear, contrived to lie still however, while the 
 iKiirs gazed upward at the s})eakers in wcjnder, and aller- 
 iKitely at the suspicious looking bundle inside the fort. 
 Not being able to nud^e out the meaning of either, they 
 giive at last a grunt of dissatisfaction, and ran off into a 
 thicket to consult over these strange appearances ; leaving 
 tlic trappers to enjoy the incident as a very good joke. 
 For a long time after, Doughty was reminded how close 
 to the ground he laid, when the grizzlys paid their com- 
 pliments to him. Such were the every-day incidents from 
 which the nu)un tain-men contrived to derive their rude 
 jests, aiul laughter-provoking reminiscences. 
 
 A few days after this incident, while the same party 
 were trapping a few miles farther down the river, on their 
 wtiy to camp, they ^ell in with some Delaware Indians, 
 who said they had discovered signs of Blackfeet, and 
 wanted to borrow some horses to decoy them. T this 
 the trappers very willingly agreed, and they were fur- 
 nished with two horses. The Delawares then went to the 
 spot where signs had been discovered, and tying the 
 horses, laid flat down on the ground near them, concealed 
 by the grass or willows. They had not long to wait be- 
 fore a Blackfoot was seen stealthily advancing through the 
 thicket, confident in the belief that he should gain a cou- 
 ple of horses while their supposed owners were busy with 
 their traps. 
 
 But just as he laid his hand on the bridle of the first 
 one, crack went the rifles of the Delawaies, and there was 
 one less Blackfoot thief on the scent after trappers. As 
 soon as they could, after this, the party mounted and rode 
 to camp, not stopping by the way, lest the main body of 
 Blackfeet should discover the deed and seek for vengeance. 
 
19G 
 
 THK IHIIMAELITE OF THE WILDEllNErtB. 
 
 Truly indeed, was the Blackfoot the Ishmaol of the wil 
 deriiesH, whose hand was against every man, and every 
 man's liand against him. 
 
 The Rocky Mountain Company passed the first part of 
 the winter in peace and plenty in the Yellowstone camp, 
 unannoyed either by enemies or rivals. Hunting buft'alo, 
 feeding their horses, playing games, and telling stories, oc- 
 cupied the entire leisure of these months of rei)ose. Not 
 only did the mountain-men recount their own adventures, 
 but when these were exhausted, those whose memories 
 served them rehearsed the tales they had read in their 
 youth. Robinson Crusoe and the Arabian Nights Enter- 
 tainment, were read over again by the light of memory; 
 and even Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress was made to recite 
 like a sensation novel, and was quite as well enjoyed. 
 
 1836. In January, however, this repose was broken in 
 upon by a visit from the Blackfeet. As their visitations 
 were never of a friendly character, so then they were not 
 bent upon pacific rites and ceremonies, such as all the rest 
 of the world find pleasure in, but came in full battle array 
 to try their fortunes in war against the big camp of the 
 whites. They had evidently made great preparation. 
 Their warriors numbered eleven hundred, got up in the 
 top of the Blackfoot fashions, and armed with all manner 
 of savage and some civilized weapons. But Bridger was 
 prepared for them, although their numbers were so over- 
 whelming. He built a fort, had the animals corraled, and 
 put himself on the defensive in a prompt and thorough man- 
 ner. This made the Blackfeet cautious ; they too built 
 forts of cotton-wood in the shape of lodges, ten men to 
 each fort, and carried on a skirmishing fight for two days, 
 when finding there was nothing to J)e gained, they de- 
 parted, neither side having sustained much loss; the 
 whites losing only two men by this grand Blackfoot army. 
 
MAUCH TllltOUUU THE CUOW COINTUV 
 
 197 
 
 Soon after this attack Bridgcr broke camp, nnd traveled 
 ii|) tliL' VcllowHtoiio, through tlie Crow country. It was 
 wliili! on this inarch that (Iniontucken was struck by a 
 Crow, and Meek put the whole camp in peril, by shooting 
 him. They passed on to the Big Horn and Little Horn 
 rivers, down through the Wind River valley and through 
 the South Pass to (Jreeu River. 
 
 While in that country, there occurred the fight with the 
 l)iiniiiieks in which Umentucken was killed. A small party 
 of Nez Perces had lost their horses by the thieving of the 
 Bannacks. They came into camp and complained to the 
 whites, who promised them their protection, should they 
 l)e able to recover their horses. Accordingly the Ncz Per- 
 ces started after the thieves, and by dogging their camp, 
 succeeded in re-capturing their horses and getting back 
 to Bridgcjr's camp with them. In order to divert the 
 vengeance of the Bannacks from themselves, they pre- 
 sented their horses to the whites, aud a very fine one to 
 Bridger. 
 
 All went well for a time. The Bannacks went on their 
 way to hunt buffalo ; but they treasured up their wrath 
 arrainst the supposed white thieves who had stolen the 
 liorses which they had come by so honestly. On their re- 
 turn from the huut, having learned by spies that the horses 
 were in the camp of the whites, they prepared for war. 
 Early one morning they made their appearance mounted 
 and armed, and making a dash at the camp, rode through 
 it with the usual yells and frantic gestures. The attack 
 was entirely unexpected. Bridger stood in front of his 
 lodge, holding his horse by a lasso, and t' ^. liCad chief 
 rode over it, jerking it out of his hand. At this unprece- 
 dented insult to his master, a negro named Jim, cook to 
 the Booshways, seized a rifle and shot the chief dead. At 
 the same timCj an airow shot at random struck Umen- 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 V! 
 
 if 
 
 V :i 
 
198 
 
 PUNISHMENT OF TilE BANNACKS. 
 
 tucken in the breast, and the joys and sorrows of the 
 Mountain Lamb were over forevermore. 
 
 The killing of a head chief always throws an Indian 
 war party into confusion, and negro Jim was greatly elated 
 at this signal feat of his. The trappers, who were as 
 much surprised at the suddenness of the assault as it k in 
 the mountain-man's nature to be, quickly recovered them- 
 selves. In a few moments the men were mounted and in 
 motion, and the disordered Baunacks were obliged to fly 
 towards their village, Bridger's company pursuing them. 
 
 All the rest of that day the trappers fought the Ban- 
 nacks, driving them out of their village and plundering 
 it, and forcing them to take refuge on an island iu the 
 river. Even there they were not safe, the guns of the 
 mountain-men picking them off, from their stations on the 
 river banks. Umentucken was well avenged that day. 
 
 All night the Indians remained on the island, where 
 sounds of wailing were heard continually ; and when 
 morning came one of their old women appeared bearing the 
 pipe of peace. " You have killed all our warriors," she 
 said; "do you now want to kill the women? If you 
 wish to smoke with women, I have the pipe." 
 
 Not caring either to fight or to smoke with so feeble a rep- 
 resentative of the Bannacks, the trappers withdrew. But 
 it was the last war party that nation ever sent against the 
 mountain-men ; though in later times they have by their 
 atrocities avenged the losses of that day. 
 
 While awaiting, in the Green River valley, the arrival 
 of the St. Louis Company, the Rocky Mountain and North 
 American companies united ; after which Captain Sublette 
 and his brother returned no more to the mountains. The 
 new firm was known only as the American Fur Company, 
 the other having dropped its title altogether. The object 
 of their consolidation was by combiiiiug their capital 
 
AN EXCURSION. 
 
 199 
 
 experience to strengthen their hands against the Ilndson's 
 Bay Company, which now had an establisliment at Fort 
 Hall, on the Snake River. By this new arrangement, 
 Brivlger and Fontenelle commanded ; and Dripps was to 
 be the traveling partner who was to go to St. Louis for 
 
 goods. 
 
 After the conclusion of this agreement, Dripps, with the 
 restlessness of the true mountain-man, decided to set out, 
 with a small party of equally restless trappers, always 
 eager to volunteer for any undertaking promising either 
 danger or diversion, to look for the St. Louis Company 
 which was presumed to be somewhere between the Black 
 Hills and Green Uiver. According to this determination 
 Dripps, Meek, Carson, Newell, a Flathead chief named 
 Victor, and one or two others, set o it on the search for 
 the expected company. 
 
 It happened, however, that a war party of a hundred 
 Crows were out on the trr il Ixifore them, looking perhaps 
 for the same party, and the trappers had not made more 
 than one or two camps before they discovered signs which 
 satisfied them of the neighborhood of an enemy. At 
 their next camp on the Sandy, Meek and Carson, with the 
 caution and vigilance peculiar to them, kept their saddles 
 on their horses, and the horses tied to themselves by a 
 long rope, so that 01 the least unusual motion of the ani- 
 mals they should be r'^adily informed of the disturbance. 
 Their i)recaution was not lost. Just after midnight had 
 given place to tne first faint kindling of dawn, their ears 
 were stunned by the simultaneous discharge of a hundred 
 [,uns, and the usual furious din of the war-whoop and yell. 
 A stampede immediately took place of all the horses ex- 
 cepting those of Meek and Carson. " Every man for himself 
 and God for u' all," is the motto of the mountain-man in 
 case of an Indian attack ; nor did our trappers forget it 
 
200 
 
 INTERCEPTED BY CROWS A SCATTERED CAMP. 
 
 on this occasion. Quickly mounting, they put their horses 
 to their speed, which was not checked until they had left 
 the Sandy t'xv behind them. Continuing on in the direc- 
 tion of the proposed meeting with the St. Louis Company, 
 they made their first camp on the Sweetwater, where they 
 fell in with Victor, the Flathead chief, who had made his 
 way on foot to this place. One or two others came into 
 camp chat night, and the following day this portion 
 of the party traveled on in company until within about 
 five miles of Independence Rock, when they were once 
 more charged on by the Indians, who surrounded them in 
 such a manner that they were obliged to turn back to 
 escape. ^-s-*' 
 
 Again Meek and Carson made off, leaving their dis- 
 mounted comrades to their owr best devices. Finding 
 that with so many Indians on the trail, and only two horses, 
 there was little hope of being able to accomplish their 
 journey, these two lucky ones made all haste back to camp. 
 On Horse Creek, a few hours travel from rendezvous, they 
 came up wath Newell, who after losing his horse had fled 
 in the direction of the main camp, but becoming bewil- 
 dered had been roaming about until he was quite tired 
 out, and on the point of giving up. But as if the Creek 
 where he was found meant to justify itself for having so 
 inharmonious a name, one of their own horses, which had 
 escaped from the Cro<vs was found quietly grazing on its 
 banks, and the worn out fugitive at once remounted. 
 Strange as it may appear, not one of the party was killed, 
 the others returning to camp two days later than Meek 
 and Carson, the worse for their expedition only by the loss 
 of their horses, and rather an unusually fatigued and for- 
 lorn aspect. 
 
THE APPROACH OF MISSIONARIES ANNOUNCED. 
 
 201 \ 
 
 *ir 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 ■yAfei^WP-^'M^^'^'^J**^ " 
 
 1836. While the resident partners of the consolidated 
 company waited at the rendezvous for the arrival of the 
 supply trains from St. Louis, word came by a messenger 
 sent forward, that the American Company under Fitzpat- 
 rick, bad reached Independence Rock, and was pressing 
 forward. The messenger also brought the intelligence 
 that two other parties were traveling in company with the 
 fur company ; that of Captain Stuart, who had been to 
 New Orleans to winter, and that of Doctor Whitman, one 
 of tlie missionaries who had visited the mountains the year 
 previous. In this latter party, it was asserted, there were 
 two white ladies. 
 
 This exhilarating news immediately inspired some of the 
 trappers, foremost among whom was Meek, with a desire 
 to be the first to meet and greet the on-coming caravan ; 
 and especially to salute the two white women who were 
 bold enough to invade a mountain camp. In a very short 
 time Meek, with half-a-dozen comrades, and ten or a dozen 
 Xez Perces, were mounted and away, on their self-imposed 
 errand of welcome ; the trappers because the}- were 
 "spoiling" for a fresh excitement; and the Nez Perces 
 because the missionaries were bringing them informntion 
 concerning the powerful and beneficent Deity of ihe white 
 men. These latter also were charged with a letter to 
 Doctor Whitman from his former associate, Mr. Parker. 
 
 On the Sweetwater about two days' travel from camp 
 
 m 
 
 kl 
 
^pw 
 
 202 THE CARAVAN WELCOMED BY A PARTY OF TRAPPERS. 
 
 the caravan of the advancing company was discovered, 
 and the trappers prepared to give them a characteristic 
 greeting. To prevent mistakes in recognizing them, a 
 white flag was hoisted on one of their guns, and the word 
 was given to start. Tlien over the brow of a hill they 
 made their appearance, riding with that mad speed only 
 an Indian or a trapper can ride, yelling, whooping, dash- 
 ing forward with frantic and threatening gestures ; their 
 dress, noises, and motions, all so completely savage that 
 the white men could not have been distinguished from 
 the red. -■- 
 
 The first effect of their onset was what they probably 
 intended. The uninitiated travelers, including the mis- 
 sionaries, believing they were about to be attacked by 
 Indians, prepared for defence, nor could be persuaded that 
 the preparation was unnecessary until the guide pointed 
 out to them the white flag in advance. At the assurance 
 that the flag betokened friends, apprehension was changed 
 to curiosity and intense interest. Every movement of the 
 wild brigade became fascinating. On they came, riding 
 faster and faster, yelling louder and louder, and gesticu- 
 lating more and more madly, until, as they met and passed 
 the caravan, they discharged their guns in one volley over 
 the heads of the company, as a last finishmg feu dejoie; 
 and suddenly wheeling rode back to the front as wildly 
 as they had come. Nor could this first brief display con- 
 tent the crazy cavalcade. After reaching the front, they 
 rode back and forth, and around and around the caravan, 
 which had returned their salute, showing off their feats of 
 horsemanship, and the knowing tricks of their horses to- 
 gether ; hardly stopping to exchange questions and an- 
 swers, but seeming really intoxicated with delight at the 
 meeting. What strange emotions filled the breasts of the 
 lady missionaries, when they beheld among whom their 
 
CURIOSITY OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 203 
 
 lot ^^as cast, may now be faintly outlined by a vivid 
 imagination, but have never been, perhaps never could be 
 put into words. 
 
 The caravan on leaving the settlements had consisted 
 of nineteen laden carts, each drawn by two mules driven 
 taadcni, and one light wagon, belonging to the American 
 Company ; two wagons with two mules to each, belonging to 
 Capt. Stuart; and one light two-horse wagon, and one foiir- 
 liorse freight wagon, belonging to the missionaries. How- 
 ever, all the wagons had been left behind at Fort Laramie, 
 except those of the missionaries, and one of Capt. Stuart's ; 
 so that the three that remained in the train when it reached 
 the S\veetwater were alone in the enjoyment of the Nez 
 Pcrces' curiosity concerning them; a curiosity which they 
 divided between them and the domesticated cows and 
 calves belonging to the missionaries: another proof, as 
 they considered it, of the superior power of the white 
 man's God, who could give to the whites the ability to tame 
 ■wild animals to their uses. 
 
 But it was towards the two missionary ladies, Mrs. Whit- 
 man and Mrs. Spalding, that the chief interest was directed; 
 an interest that was founded in the Indian mind upon won- 
 der, admiration, and awe ; and in the minds of the trappers 
 upon the powerful recollections awakened by seeing in 
 their midst two refined Christian women, with the complex- 
 ion cand dress of their own mothers and sisters. United 
 to this startling effect of memory, was respect for the re- 
 ligious devotion which had inspired them to undertake the 
 long and dangerous journey to the Rocky Mountains, and 
 also a sentiment of pity for what they knew only too well 
 yet remained to be encountered by those delicate women 
 in the prosecution of their duty. 
 
 Mrs. Whitman, who was in fine health, rode the greater 
 part of the journey on horseback. She was a large, stately, 
 
204 
 
 THE MISSIONARY LADIES. 
 
 fair-skinned woman, with blue eyes and light auburn, al- 
 most golden hair. Her manners were at once dignified 
 and gracious. She was, both by nature and education a 
 lady; and had a lady's appreciation of all that was cour- 
 teous and refined; yet not without an clement of romance 
 and heroism in her disposition strong enough to have 
 impelled her to undertake a missionary's life in the wil- 
 derness. "' rf 
 
 Mrs. Spalding was a different type of woman. Talented, 
 and refined in her nature, she was less pleasing in exterior, 
 and less attached to that which was superficially pleasing 
 in others. But an indifference to outside appearances was 
 in her case only a sign of her absorption in *\ie work she 
 had taken in hand. She possessed the true missionaiy 
 spirit, and the talent to make it useful in an eminent de- 
 gree; never thinking of herself, or the impression she 
 made upon others; yet withal very firm and capable of 
 command. Her health, which was always rather delicate, 
 had suffered much from the fatigue of the journey, and 
 the constant diet of fi'csh meat, and meat only, so that she 
 was compelled at last to abandon horseback exercise, and 
 to keep almost entirely to the light wagon of the mission- 
 aries. ■» 
 
 As might be expected, the trappers turned from the con- 
 templation of the pale, dark-haired occupant of the wagon, 
 with all her humility and gentleness, to observe and 
 admire the more striking figure, and more affably attractive 
 manners of Mrs. Whitman. Meek, who never lost an 
 opportunity to see and be seen, was seen riding alongside 
 Mrs. Whitman, answering her curious inquiries, and enter- 
 taining her with stories of Blackfeet battles, and encoun- 
 ters with grizzly bears. Poor lady ! could she have looked 
 into the future about which she was then so curious, she 
 would have turned back appalled, and have fled with fran- 
 
PREPARATIONS IN THE INDIAN VILLAGE. 
 
 205 
 
 tic fear to the home of her grieving parents. How could 
 she then behold in the gay and boastful mountaineer, 
 whose peculiarities of dress and speech so much diverted 
 her, the very messenger who was to bear to the home of 
 her girlhood the sickening tale of her bloody sacrifice to 
 savage superstition and revenge ? Yet so had fate de- 
 creed it. 
 
 When the trappers and Nez Perces had slaked their thirst 
 for excitement by a few hours' travel in company with the 
 Fur Company's and Missionary's caravan, they gave at 
 length a parting display of horsemanship, and dashed off 
 on the return trail to carry to camp the earliest news. It 
 was OP their arrival in camp that the Nez Perce and Flat- 
 head village, which had its encampment at the rendezvous 
 ground on Green River, began to make preparations for 
 the reception of the missionaries. It was then that Indian 
 finery was in requisition ! Then the Indian women combed 
 and braided their long black hair, tying the plaits with 
 gay-colored ribbons, and the Indian braves tied anew 
 their streaming scalp-locks, sticking them full of flaunting 
 eagle's plumes, and not despising a bit of ribbon either. 
 Paint was in demand both for the rider and his horse. Gay 
 blankets, red and blue, buckskin fringed shirts, worked 
 with beads and porcupine quills, and handsomely embroi- 
 dered moccasins, were eagerly sought after. Guns were 
 cleaned and burnished, and drums and fifes put in tune. 
 
 After a day of toilsome preparation all was ready for 
 the grand reception in the camp of the Nez Perces. Word 
 was at length given that the caravan was in sight. There 
 was a rush for horses, and in a few moments the Indians 
 were mounted and in line, ready to charge on the advanc- 
 ing caravan. When the command of the chiefs was given 
 to start, a simulta,neous chorus of yells and whoops burst 
 forth, accompanied by the deafening din of the war-drum, 
 
 :j 
 
 ! II 
 
206 
 
 ENTHUSIASTIC RECEPTION. 
 
 the discharge of fire-arms, and the chatter of the whole 
 cavalcade, which was at once in a mad gallop toward the 
 on-coming train. Nor did the yelling, whooping, drum- 
 ming, and firing cease until within a few yards of the 
 train. 
 
 All this demoniac hub-bub was highly complimentary 
 toward those for whom it was intended ; but an unfortu- 
 nate ignorance of Indian customs caused the missionaries 
 to fail in appreciating the honor intended them. Instead 
 of trying to reciprocate the noise by an attempt at imitat- 
 ing it, the missionary camp was alarmed at the first burst 
 and at once began to drive in their cattle and prepare for 
 an attack. As the missionary party was in the rear of the 
 train they succeeded in getting together their loose stock 
 before the Nez Perces had an opportunity of making them- 
 selves known, so that the leaders of the Fur Company, and 
 Captain Stuart, had the pleasure of a hearty laugh at their 
 expense, for the fright they had received. 
 
 A general shaking of hands followed the abatement of 
 the first surprise, the Indian women saluting Mrs. Whitman 
 and Mrs. Spalding with a kiss, and the missionaries were 
 escorted to their camping ground near the Nez Perce en- 
 campment. Here the whole village again formed in line, 
 and a more formal introduction of the missionaries took 
 place, after which they were permitted to go into camp. 
 
 When the intention of the Indians became known, Dr. 
 Whitman, who was the leader of the missionary party, was 
 boyishly delighted with the reception which had been 
 given him. His frank, hearty, hopeful nature augured 
 much good from the enthusiasm of the Indians. If his 
 estimation of the native virtues of the savages was much 
 too high, he suffered with those whom he caused to suifer 
 for his belief, in the years which followed. Peace to the 
 ashes of a good man ! Aud honor to his associates, whose 
 
 li 
 
f 
 
 MR. J^M) MRS. SPALULVG — MU. GHAY. 
 
 207 
 
 hearts -were in tho cause they had iindortakon of Christian- 
 ixinu: tho Iiulians. Two of them still live — one of whom, 
 Mr, Spalding, has conscientiously labored and deeply suf- 
 fered for the faith. Mr. Gray, who was an unmari-ied man, 
 retnrnod the following year to the States, for a wife, and 
 settled for a time among the Indians, but finally abandoned 
 the missionary service, and removed to the Wallamet val- 
 ley. These five persons constituted the entire force of 
 teaehors Avho could be induced at that time to devote 
 tlieir lives to the instruction of the savages in the neigh- 
 horliood of the Rocky Mountains. 
 
 The trappers, and gentlemen of the Fur Company, and 
 Captain Stuart, had been passive but interested s])ectators 
 of the scene between the Indians and the missionaries. 
 When the excitement had somewhat subsided, and the 
 various camps had become settled in tlieir places, the tents 
 of the white ladies were beseiged with visitors, both civil- 
 ized and savage. These ladies, who were making an en- 
 deavor to acquire a knowledge of the Nez Perce tongue 
 in order to commence their instructions in the language 
 of the natives, could have made very little progress, had 
 their purpose been less strong than it was. Mrs. Spalding 
 perhaps succeeded better than Mrs. Whitman in the diffi- 
 cult study of the Indian dialect. She seemed to attract 
 the natives about her by the ease and kindness of her 
 luaiiiicr, especially the native women, who, seeing she was 
 an invalid, clung to her rather than to her more lofty and 
 self-assorting associate. 
 
 On the contrary, the leaders of the American Fur Com- 
 pany, Captain Wyeth and Captain Stuart, paid Mrs. Whit- 
 man the most marked and courteous attentions. She shone 
 the bright particular star of that Rocky Mountain encam p- 
 m(;nt, softening the hearts and the manners of all who 
 came within her womanly influence. Not a gentlcmau 
 14 
 
 Hi 
 
 '^ 
 
208 WOMANLY INFLUENCES IN THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 umoiig tlicm but felt her siltMit eommaiul upon him to be 
 his better sell' wliile she rciiuiined in his vieinity ; not a 
 trapper or ciunp-kceper but respected the presence of 
 womanliood and piety. But while the leaders paid court 
 to her, the bashful trappers contented themselves with 
 promenading before her tent. Should they succeed in 
 catching her eye, they never failed to touch their beaver- 
 skin ca[)s in their most studiously graceful manner, though 
 that should prove so dubious as to bring a mischievous 
 smile to the blue eyes of the observant lady. 
 
 But our friend Joe Meek did not belong by nature to 
 the bashi'ul brigade. He was not content Avith disporting 
 himself in his best trapper's toggery in front of a lady s 
 tent. lie became a not infrequent visitor, and amused 
 Mrs. Whitman with the best of his mountain adventures, 
 related in his soft, slow, yet smooth and firm utterance, 
 and with many a merry twinkle of his mirthful dark eyes. 
 In more serious moments he spoke to her of the future, 
 and of his determination, sometime, to "settle down.' 
 When she inquired if he liad fixed upon any spot which 
 in his imagination he could regard as "home" he replied 
 that he could not content himself to return to civilized life, 
 but thought that when he gave up "bar fighting and In- 
 jun fighting" he should go down to the Wallamet valley 
 and see what sort of life he c mid make of it there. How 
 he lived up to th!s determination will be seen hereafter. 
 
 The missionaries remained at the rendezvous long enough 
 to recruit their own strength and that of their stock, and 
 to restore to something like health the invalid Mrs. Spald- 
 ing, who, on changing her diet to dried meat, which the 
 resident partners were able to supply her, commenced rap- 
 idly to improve. Letters were written and given to Capt 
 Wyeth to carry home to the States. The Captain had 
 completed his sale of Fort ITall and the goods it contained 
 
 1 i 
 
 S 
 
TIIK MISSTOXAUIKS RKNEW TIIKIU JOURNEY. 
 
 200' 
 
 lollic Hudson's Bay Company only a sliort time provioiis, 
 and was now about to abandon tlui effort to establisli any 
 riitorprise cither on the Cohimbia, or in tlie Itocky Alonn- 
 tiiius. He had, liowevcr, executed his threat of the year 
 previous, and punislied the bad faith of the Kocky Moun- 
 tain Company by placing them in direct competition with 
 ihc Hudson's Bay Company. 
 
 Tlio missionaries now prepared for their journey to the 
 Columbia River. According to the advice of the moun- 
 tain-men the heaviest wagon was left at the rendezvous, 
 together with every heavy article that could be dispensed 
 with. But Dr. Whitman refused to leave the light wagon, 
 although assured he would never be able to get it to the 
 Columbia, nor even to the Snake River. The good Doc- 
 tor had an immense fund of determination when there was 
 an object to be gained or a principle involved. The only 
 per.sons Avho did not oppose wagon transportation were 
 the Indians. They sympathised with his determination, 
 and gave him their assistance. The evidences of a differ- 
 ent and higher civilization than they had ever seen were 
 held in great reverence by them. The wagons, the do- 
 mestic cattle, especially the cows and calves, were always 
 objects of great interest with them. Therefore they freely 
 gave their assistance, and a sufficient number remained 
 behind to hel]) tlie Doctor, while the main party of both 
 missionaries and Indians, having bidden the Fur Company 
 and others farewell, proceeded to join the camp of two 
 Ilndson's Bay traders a few miles on their way. 
 
 The two traders, whose camp they now joined, were 
 named McLeod and McKay. The latter, Thomas McKay, 
 was the half-breed son of that unfortunate McKav in Mr. 
 Aster's service, who perished on board the Tonquin^ as re- 
 lated in Irving's Astoria. He was one of the bravest 
 and most skillful partisans in the employ of the Hudson's 
 
 i- 
 
 !il^ 
 
210 
 
 TIIK CAMP OF TllK IHDtlUN S 1!AV TllADKHH. 
 
 Bay Company. McLcod liad mot tlio missionaries at the 
 Amoricaii rciidozvoiis and invited tluMU to travel in his 
 company; an oiler wliich they were glad to aecept, as it 
 secured tluMu ample protection and other more triflinir 
 benefits, besides some society other than the Indians. 
 
 By dint of great i)orseverance, Doctor Whitman con- 
 trived to keep up Avitli the camp day after day, though 
 often coming in very late and very weary, until the party 
 arrived at Fort Hall. At the fort the l)aggage was again 
 reduced as much as possible ; and Doctor Whitman was 
 compelled by the desertion of his teamster to take off two 
 wheels of his wagon and transform it into a cart wliicli 
 could be more easily propelled in diOicult places. With 
 this he proceeded as far as the Boise River where the 
 Hudson's Bay Company had a small fort or trading-post; 
 but here again he was so strongly urged to relinquish the 
 idea of taking his wagon to the Columbia, that after much 
 discussion he consented to leave it at Fort Boise until 
 some future time when unencumbered by goods or pas- 
 sengers he mighi :^e ■ urn for it. 
 
 Arrived at the cios^sing of the Snake River, Mrs. Whit- 
 man and Mrs. Spaldin x were treated to a new mode of fer- 
 riage, which even ni their varied experience they had 
 never before met with. This new ferry was nothing more 
 or less than a raft made of bundles of bulrushes woven 
 together by grass ropes. Upon this frail flat-boat the 
 passengers were obliged to stretch themselves at length 
 while an Indian swam across and drew it after him by a 
 rope. As the waters of the Snake River are rapid and 
 often " dancing mad," it is easy to conjecture that the 
 ladies were ill at ease on their bulrush ferry. 
 
 On went the party from the Snake River through the 
 Grand Ronde to the Blue Mountains. The crossing here 
 was somewhat difficult but accomplished in safety. The 
 
THE MISSIONAIUKH LAND OF rUOMlSK. 
 
 211 
 
 descent from tlie Blue ^roiintiiiiis on the west sitlo jfnvG 
 tlie missionaries their first view of the country they lnui 
 come to ])Ossess, and to civilize ami Christianize. That 
 view was beautiful and grand — as goodly a [)r()S|)eet as 
 loiijj;iiig eyes ever beheld this side; of Canaan. Hcfoi-e 
 tlieia lay a country .s])read out like a map, with the wind- 
 ings of its rivers nmrked by fringes of trees, and its bound- 
 nries li.xed by mountain ranges above which towered the 
 snowy peaks of ^, ■ -; ,k;,~-, . 
 
 Mt. ih)od, Mt. 
 Adiuns, and Mt. 
 Riiinier. Far 
 iiway could be 
 traced the 
 course of the 
 Cohnnbia ; and 
 overall themag- 
 iiilieeiit scene 
 glowed the red 
 rays of sunset, 
 tinging the dis- 
 tant blue of the 
 mountains until 
 they seemed 
 shrouded in a 
 veil of violet 
 mist. Tt Avere 
 
 not strange that 
 
 with the r(»con- descending the blue mountains. 
 
 tion given them by the Indians, and with this bird's-eye 
 view of their adopted country, the hearts of the missiona- 
 ries beat high with hope. 
 
 The descent from the Blue Mountains brought the party 
 out on the Umatilla River, where they camped, Mr. McLeod 
 
 'M. 
 
212 
 
 A VISIT TO FORT VANCOUVER — KIND RECEPTION. 
 
 !>' 
 
 
 parting company with tliem at this place to hasten for- 
 ward to Fort Walla- Walla, and prepare for their recep- 
 tion. After two more days of slow and toilsome travel 
 with cattle whose feet were cut and sore from the sharp 
 rocks of the mountains, the company arrived safely at 
 Walla- Walla fort, on the third of September. Here 
 they found Mr. McLeod, and Mr. Panbram who had charge 
 of that post. 
 
 ]\Ir. Panbram received the missionary party with every 
 toker. of respect, and of pleasure at seeing ladies among 
 therj. The kindest attentions were lavished upon them 
 from the first moment of their arrival, when the ladies 
 were lifted from their horses, to the time of their depar- 
 ture ; the apartments belonging to the fort being assigned 
 to them, and all that the place aiforded of comfortable 
 living placed at their disposal. Here, for the first time in 
 several months, they enjoyed the luxury of bread — a favor 
 for which the suffering Mrs. Spalding was especially grate- 
 ful. 
 
 At Walla- Walla the missionaries were informed that 
 they were expected to visit Vancouver, the head-quarters 
 of the Hudson's Bay Company on the Lower Columbia, 
 After resting for two days, it was determined to make this 
 visit before selecting places for mission work among the 
 Indians. Accordingly the party embarked in the compa- 
 ny's boats, for the voyage down the Columbia, which 
 occupied six days, owing to strong head winds which were 
 encountered at a point on the LoTv'cr Columbia, called 
 Cape Horn. They arrived safely on the eleventh of Sep- 
 tember, at Vancouver, where they were again received 
 with the warmest hospitality by the Governor, Dr. John 
 McLaughlin, and his associates. The change from the 
 privations of wilderness life to the luxuries of Fort Van 
 couver was very great indeed, and two wov^ks passed rap- 
 
 ii 
 
SELECTION OF MISSIONARY STATIONS. 
 
 213 
 
 idlv iway ill the enjoyment of refined society, and all 
 the oiher elegancies of the highest civilization. 
 
 At Uie enl of two weeks, Dr. Whitman, Mr. Spalding, 
 and ^^r. Gray returned to the Upper Columbia, leaving 
 the ladies at Fort Vancouver while they determined upon 
 their several locations in the Indian country. After an 
 absence of several weeks they returntid, having made their 
 selections, and on the thi^'d day of November the ladies 
 once more embarked to ascend the Columbia, to take up 
 their residence in Indian wigwams while their husbands 
 prepared rude dwellings by the assistance of the natives. 
 The spot fixed upon by Dr. Whit:'^an for his mission was 
 on the Walla- Walla River about thirty miles from the fort 
 of that name. It was called Waiilatpuj and the tribe 
 chosen for his pupils were the Cayuses, a hardy, active, 
 intelligent race, rich in horses and pasture lands. 
 
 Mr. Spalding selected a home on the Clearwater River, 
 among the Nez Perces, of whom we already know so 
 much. His mission was called Lapivai. Mr. Gr.iy went 
 among the Flatheads, an equally friendly tribe ; and here 
 \vc shall leave the missionaries, to return to the Rocky 
 Mountains and the life of the hunter and trapper. At a 
 futnre date we shall fall in once more with these devoted 
 people and learn whac success attended their efforts to 
 Christianize the Indians. 
 
 i 
 
 
 M 
 
 ^' ■'It 
 ! am 
 
 '^M 
 
 \- -"I 
 
 
 't 
 
 
 '■ ^ m§k 
 
 rr 
 
 1 
 
 ' ■ 1 
 
 'a 
 
 1 
 
 
 • 
 
214 
 
 THE DEN OF RATTLESNAKES. 
 
 ' "Mi] 
 
 ).. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 
 183o, The company of men who went north 'ir*-! ■■■ 
 under Bridger and Fontenclle, numbered nearly three 
 hundred. Rendezvous with all its varied excitemei.t;;; 
 being" over, this important brigade commenced its march. 
 According to custom, the trappers commenced business 
 ou the head-waters of various rivers^ fullowing them down 
 as the early frosts of the mountains forced them to do, 
 until finally they wintered in the plains, at the most 
 ftivored spots they could find in which to subsist them- 
 selves and animals. 
 
 From Green River, Meek proceeded with Bridger's com- 
 mand to LeAvis River, Salt River, and other tributaries of 
 the Snake, and camped with them in Pierre's Hole, that 
 favorite mountain valley which every yenr was visited by 
 the dilTerent fur companies. 
 
 Pie?Te's Hole, notwithstanding its beauties, had some re- 
 pulsive features, or rather perhaps one repulsive feature, 
 which was, its great numbers of rattlesnakes. Meek relates 
 that being once caught in a very violent thi >r'r storm, 
 he dismounted, and holding his horse, u fine c.j, by the 
 bridle, himself took shelter under a narrow shelf of rock 
 projecting from a precipitous blull". Directly he observed 
 an enormous rattlesnake hastening close by him to its den 
 in the mountain. Congratulating hin:seij ' i. his snake- 
 ship's haste to get out of the storm and !'..s vicinity, he 
 had only time to have one rejoicing thought when two or 
 
-r«r 
 
 THE OLD FRENCHMAN. 
 
 215 
 
 )le, that .1; 
 ted by 
 
 ome re- 
 
 cature, 
 
 relates 
 
 storm, 
 
 by tlio 
 
 of roc; 
 
 jsorved 
 
 its del) 
 
 snake- 
 
 lity, be 
 
 two 01" 
 
 m 
 
 t1ii-ec others follow id the trail of the first one. Thev were 
 scekiiig the same rocky den, of whose proximity M(>ek 
 now felt uncomfortably assured. Before these were out 
 of sight, there came instead of twos and threes, tens and 
 twenties, and then hundreds, and finally Meek believjs 
 tliousands, the ground being literally alive with them. 
 Not daring to stir after he discovered the nature of his 
 situation, he was obliged to remain and endure the dis- 
 gusting anrl frightful scone, while he exerted himself to 
 keep bis horse quiet, lest the reptiles should attack him. 
 By and by, when there were no more to come, but all 
 were safe in their holes in the rock. Meek hastily mounted 
 and galloped in the fiice of the tempest in preference to 
 remaining longer in so unpleasant a neighborhood. 
 
 There Avas an old Frenchman among the trappers who 
 used to charm rattlesnakes, and handling them freely, 
 place them in his bosom, or allow them to wind about his 
 arras, several at a time, their flat heads extending in all 
 I'ircctions, and their bodies waving in the air, in the most 
 ': ;aky and nerve-shaking nianner, to the infinite disgust 
 
 ' '11 the camp, and of Hawkins and Meek in particular. 
 
 br' kins oi'teii became so nervous that he threatened to 
 shoot the Frenchman on the ir.stant, if he did not desist ; 
 and great was the dislike he entertained for what he term- 
 ed the " infernal old wizard." 
 
 It was often the case in th,; mountains and on the plains 
 that the camp was troubled with rattlesnakes, so that 
 each man on laying down to sleep found it necessary to 
 encivc'ic his bed with a hair rope, thus effectually fencing 
 out the reptiles, which are too fastidious and sensitive of 
 touch to crawl over a hair rope. But for this precaution, 
 the trapper must often have shared his blanket couch 
 with this foe to the " seed of the woman," who being 
 asleep would have neglected to " crush his head," recciv- 
 
216 
 
 THE PRAIRIE DOG AND HIS TENANTS. 
 
 ing instead the serpent's fang in "his heel," if not in some 
 nol)ler portion of his body. 
 
 There is a common belief abroad that the prairie clog 
 liarl)()rs the rattlesnake, and the owl also, in his subterra- 
 nean house, in a more or less friendly manner. Meek, 
 liov, ^ver, who has had many opportunities of observing 
 the Lj >f these three ill-assorted denizens of a comraon 
 
 abode, ^ .s it as his opinion that the prairie dog consents 
 to the invasion of his premises alone through his inability 
 to prevent it. As these prairie dog villages are always 
 found on the naked prairies, where there is neither rocky 
 den for the rattlesnake, nor shade for the blinking eyes of 
 the owl, these two idle and impudent foreigners, availing 
 themselves of the labors of the industrious little animal 
 which builds itself a cool shelter from the sun, and a safe 
 one from the storm, whenever their own necessities drive 
 them to seek refuge from either sun or storm, enter unin- 
 vited and take possession. It is probable also, that so far 
 from being a welcome guest, the rattlesnake occasionally 
 gorges himself with a young prairie-dog, when other game 
 is not conveniently nigh, or that the owl lies in wait at the 
 door of its borrowed-without-leave domicile, and succeeds 
 in nabbing a careless field-mouse more easily than it could 
 catch the same game by seeking it as an honest owl should 
 do. The owl and the rattlesnake are like the Sioux when 
 they go on a visit to the Oniahas — the visit being always 
 timed so as to be identical in date with that of the Gov- 
 ernment Agents who are distributing food and clothing. 
 They arc very good friends for the nonce, the poor Oraa- 
 has not daring to be otherwise for fear of the ready ven- 
 geance on the next summer's buffiilo hunt ; therefore they 
 conceal iheir grimaces and let the Sioux eat them up ; and 
 when summer comes get massacred on their builalo hunt, 
 all the same. 
 
 ii 
 
IP 
 
 THE BLACKFEET ATTACKED IN THEIll CAMP. 
 
 217 
 
 r.ut to return to our brigade. About the last of October 
 Bridii'c.'r's company moved down on to the Yellowstone by 
 a circuitous route through the North Pass, now known as 
 Hell Gate Pass, to Judith River, Mussel Shell River, Cross 
 Creeks of the Yellowstone, Three Forks of Missouri, Mis- 
 souri Lake, Beaver Head country. Big Horn River, and 
 thence east again, and north again to the wintering ground 
 iu the great bend of the Yellowstone. 
 
 The company had not proceeded far in the Blackfeet 
 country, between Hell Gate Pass and the Yellowstone, 
 before they were attacked by the Blackfeet. On arriving 
 at the Yellowstone they discovered a considerable encamp- 
 ment of the enemy on an island or bar in the river, and 
 proceeded to open hostilities before the Indians should 
 have discovered them. Making little forts of sticks or 
 l)uslies, each man advanced cautiously to the bank over- 
 looking the island, pushing his leafy fort before him as he 
 crept silently nearer, until a position was reached whence 
 firing could commence witli effect. The first intimation 
 the luckless savages had of the neighborhood of the whites 
 was a volley of shots discharged into their camp, killing 
 several of their number. But as this was their own mode 
 of attack, no reflections were likely to be wasted upon the 
 unfairness of the assault; quickly springing to their arms 
 the firing was returned, and for several hours was kept up 
 on both sides. At night the Indians stole off, having lost 
 nearly thirty killed; nor did the trappers escape quite un- 
 hurt, three being killed and a few others wounded. 
 
 Since men were of such value to the fur companies, it 
 ■would seem strange that they should deliberately enter 
 upon an Indian fight before being attacked. But unfortu- 
 nate as these encounters really were, :hey knew of no 
 other policy to be pursued. They, (the American Com- 
 panies,) were not resident, with a long acquaintance, and 
 
 • I 
 
 f<4' 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 ! I 
 I 
 
218 
 
 THE TRAPPERS POLICY OF WAR. 
 
 settled policy, such as rendered the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany so secure amongst the savages. They knew that 
 among these unfriendly Indians, not to attack was to bo 
 attacked, and consequently little time was ever given for 
 an Indian to discover his vicinity to a trapper. The trap- 
 per's shot informed him of that, and afterwards the race 
 was to the swift, and the battle to the strong. Besides 
 this acknowledged necessity for fighting whenever and 
 wherever Indians were met with in the Blackfeet and Crow 
 countries, almost every trapper had some private injury to 
 avenge — some theft, or wound, or imprisonment, or at the 
 very least, some terrible fright sustained at the hands of 
 the universal foe. Therefore there was no reluctance to 
 shoot into an Indian camp, provided the position of the 
 man shooting was a safe one, or more defensible than that 
 of the win shot at. Add to this that there was no law in 
 the mountains, only license, it is easy to conjecture that 
 might would have prevailed over right with far less incen- 
 tive to the exercise of savage practices tlian actually did 
 exist. Many a trapper undoubtedly shot his Indian "for 
 the fun of it," feeling that it was much better to do so than 
 run the risk of being shot at for no better reason. Of this 
 class of reasoners, it must be admitted. Meek was one. 
 Indian-fighting, like bear -fighting, had come to be a sort 
 of pastime, in which he was proud to be known as highly 
 accomplished. Having so many opportunities for the dis- 
 play of game qualities in encounters with these two by-no- 
 means-to-be despised foes of the trapper, it was not often 
 that they quarreled among themselves after the grand frolic 
 of the rendezvous was over. 
 
 It happened, however, during this autumn, that while 
 the main camp was in the valley of the Yellowstone, a 
 party of eight trappers, including Meek and a comrade 
 named Stanberry, were trapping together on the Mussel 
 
aj Com- 
 lew that 
 t^as to be 
 ^iven for 
 Che trap- 
 the race 
 Besides 
 3ver and 
 md Crow 
 injury to 
 or at the 
 hands of 
 ctance to 
 Qn of the 
 than that 
 no law in 
 ture that 
 ess incen- 
 ;ually did 
 lian "for 
 .0 so than 
 
 Of this 
 
 was one. 
 
 je a sort 
 
 as highly 
 
 the dis- 
 ,vo bv-no- 
 not often 
 and frolic 
 
 at while 
 
 wstone, a 
 
 comrade 
 
 e Mussel 
 
 4 
 
 r... 
 
 ''i; ' 
 
A DUEL AVERTED, 
 
 219 
 
 Shell, wlioii the question as to Avliicli was the bravest man 
 rrot istiirtod between them, and at length, in the heat of 
 controversy, assumed such importance that it was agreed 
 to settle tlie matter on the following day according to the 
 Vii'it'i Ilia code of honor, i. 6., by fighting a duel, and shoot- 
 ing at each other Avith guns, which hitherto had only done 
 execution on bears and Indians. 
 
 but some listening spirit of the woods determined to 
 avert the danger from these two equally brave trappers, 
 aiul save their ammunition for its legitimate use, by giving 
 tlieni occasion to [)rove their courage almost on the instant. 
 While sitting around the camp-fire discussing the coming 
 event of the duel at thirty paces, a huge bear, already 
 Avounded by a shot from the gun of their hunter who was 
 out looking for game, came running furiously into camp, 
 giving each man there a challenge to fight or fly. 
 
 ''Now," spoke up one of the men quickly, ''let Meek 
 and Stanberry prove Avhich is bravest, by fighting the 
 bear!" "Agreed," cried the two as quickly, and both 
 sprang with guns and wiping-sticks in hand, charging upon 
 the infuriated beast as it reached the spot where they were 
 awaiting it. Stanberry was a small man, and Meek a large 
 one. Perhaps it was owing to this difference of stature 
 that ^leek was first to reach the bear as it advanced. Run- 
 ning up with reckless bravado Meek struck the creature 
 two or three times over the head with his wiping-stick 
 before aiming to fire, which however he did so quickly 
 and so surely that the beast fell dead at his feet. This act 
 settled the vexed question. Nobody was disposed to dis- 
 pute the point of courage with a man who would stop to 
 strike a grizzly before shooting him : therefore Meek was 
 proclaimed by the common voice to be "coc v of the walk" 
 in that camp. The pipe of peace was solemnly smoked 
 by himself and Stanberry, and the tomahawk buried never 
 
 • \ 
 
220 
 
 A RUNAWAY BEAU. 
 
 more to be resurrected between them, while a fat snpper 
 of bear meat celebrated the compact of everlasting amity, 
 
 It was not an unfreqiicnt occurrence for a grizzly bear 
 to be run into camp by the hunters, in the Yellowstone 
 country where this creature abounded. An amusing inci- 
 dent occurred not long after that just related, when tiio 
 whole camp was at the Cross Creeks of the Yellowstone, 
 on the south side of that river. The hunters were out, 
 and had come upon two or three bears in a thicket. As 
 these animals sometimes Avilldo, they started off' in a great 
 fright, running toward camp, the hunters after them, yell- 
 ing, frightening them still more. A runaway bear, like a 
 runaway horse, appears not to see where it is going, but 
 keeps right on its course no matter what dangers lie in 
 advance. So one of these animals having got headed for 
 the middle of the encampment, saw notliing of Avhat lay 
 in its way, but ran on and on, apparently taking note of 
 nothing but the yells in pursuit. So sudden and unex- 
 pected Avas the charge which he made ui)on camp, that 
 the Indian women, wdio were sitting on the ground engaged 
 in some ornamental work, had no time to escape out of the 
 way. One of them Avas thrown down and run over, and 
 another was struck Avith such violence that she was thrown 
 twenty feet from the spot where she was hastily attemptin?' 
 to rise. Other objects in camp were upset and thrown out 
 of the way, but without causing so much merriment as the 
 mishaps of the two women who were so rudely treated by 
 the monster. 
 
 It was also while the camp was at the Cross Creeks of 
 the Yellowstone that Meek had one of his best fought bat- 
 tles with a grizzly bear. He was out with two compan- 
 ions, one Gardiner, and Mark Head, a Shawnee Indian. 
 Seeing a very large bear digging roots in the creek bot- 
 tom, Meek proposed to attack it, if the others would hold 
 
A (jlUIZZLV AT CLOSE Ql'AUTElJS. 
 
 221 
 
 his horse ready to mount if he failed to kill the creature. 
 Tliis l)oiiig agreed to he advanced to within about forty- 
 paces of his game, when he raised his gun and Jittempted. 
 to fire, but the cap bursting he only roused the beast, 
 which turned on him with a terrific noise between a snarl 
 and a growl, showing some fearful looking teeth. Meek 
 turned to run for his horse, at the same time trying to put 
 a cap on his gun ; but when he had almost reached his 
 comrades, their horses and his own took fright at the bear 
 now close on his heels, and ran, leaving him alone with the 
 i^ow fully infuriated beast. Just at the moment he suc- 
 ceeded in getting a cap on his gun, the teeth of the bear 
 closed on his blanket capote which was belted around the 
 waist, the suddenness and force of the seizure turning him 
 around, as the skirt of his capote yielded to the strain 
 and tore off at the belt. Being now nearly face to face 
 
 SATISFIED WITH BEAR FIGHTING. 
 
 f t 
 
 
 
 with his foe, the intrepid trapper thrust his gun into the 
 

 b.STlSFIKD WITH IJKAll I'KJHTINO. 
 
 croaturc's mouth and attempted again to fire, but the gun 
 being doubh^ triggered and not sot, it failed to go oil'. 
 Perceiving the dilViculty he managed to set tlic triggers 
 with the gun still in the bear's mouth, yet no sooner was 
 this done than the bear succeeded in knocking it out, and 
 firing as it sli})ped out, it hit her too low dcjwn to inflict a 
 fatal wound and only served to irritate her still farther. 
 
 In this desperate situation when Meek's brain was rap- 
 idly working on the problem of live !Meek or live bear, 
 two fresh actors appeared on the scene in the persons of 
 two cubs, who seeing their mother in dilhculty ^enicd 
 desirous of doing something to assist her. Tliei near- 
 ance seemed to excite the bear to new exeriiuiis, for 
 she made one desperate blow at Meek's empty gun with 
 which he was defending himself, and knocked it out of his 
 hands, and fiir down iha bank or sloping hillside whore 
 the struggle was now going on. Then being partially 
 blinded by rage, she seized one of her cubs and began to 
 box it about in a most unmotherly fashion. This diversion 
 gave j\Ieck a chance to draw his knife from the scabbard, 
 with wliich he endeavored to stab the bear behind the 
 ear : but she was too quick for him, and with a blow struck 
 it out of his hand, as she had the gun, nearly severing his 
 forefinger. 
 
 At this critical juncture the second cub interfered, and 
 got a boxing from the old bear, as the first one had done. 
 Tills too, gave Meek time to make a movement, and loosen- 
 ing his tomahawk from his belt, he made one tremen- 
 dous effort, taking deadly aim, and struck her just behind 
 the ear, the tomahawk sinking into the brain, and his 
 powerful antagonist lay dead before him. When the blow 
 was struck he stood with his back against a little bluff of 
 rock, beyond which it was impossible to retreat. It was 
 his last chance, and his usual good fortune stood by him. 
 
WINTEU-QUAUTEUa ON POWDEJl KlVEll. 
 
 22J 
 
 When tlio struggle was over the weary victor mounted 
 the rock behind him and k)oked down upon his enemy 
 sliiiu; and ''came to the couulusiuii that he was satisfied 
 with bar-lighting." 
 
 But renown had sought him out even here, alone with 
 hi* lifeless antagonist. Ca|)t. Stuart with his artist, Mr. 
 Miller, chanced upon this very spot, while yet the con- 
 ([iiei'ur contemplated his slain enemy, and taking posses- 
 sion at once of the bear, whose skin was afterward preserved 
 and sliitruil, made a portrait of the "sat' lied" slayer. A 
 picture was subsequently painted by Miller of this scene, 
 ;uid was copied in wax for a museum in St. Louis, where 
 it probably remains to this day, a monument of Meek's 
 best bear fight. As for Meek's runaway horse and run- 
 away comrades, they returned to the scene of action too 
 late to be of the least service, except to furnish our hero 
 with transportation to camp, which, considering the weight 
 of his newly gathered laurels, was no light service after 
 all 
 
 lu November Bridger's camp arrived at the Bighorn 
 River, expecting to winter ; but finding the buffalo all gone, 
 were obliged to cross the mountains lying between the 
 Bighorn and Powder rivers to reach the bulHilo country 
 on the latter stream. The snow having already fallen 
 quite deep on these mountains the crossing was attended 
 with great difficulty ; and many horses and mules were 
 lost by sinking m the snow, or falling down precipices 
 made slippery by the melting and freezing of the snow on 
 the narrow ridges and rocky benches along which they 
 were forced to travel. 
 
 About Christmas all the company went into winter-quar- 
 ters on Powder River, in the neighborhood of a company 
 of Bonneville's men, left under the command of Antoine 
 Montero, who had established a trading-post and fort at 
 15 
 
 I 
 
 i: ,1 
 
 ! i 
 
 
 1 
 
 ■■j:.^ 
 
224 
 
 BONNEVILLE S MSN ROBBED. 
 
 
 t ' 
 
 this place, h jping, no doubt, that here they should be 
 comparatively safe from the injurious competition of the 
 older companies. The appearance of three hundred men, 
 who had the winter before them in which to do mischief, 
 was therefore as unpleasant as it was unexpected; and 
 the result proved that evcnMontero, who was Bonneville's 
 experienced trader, could not hold his own agaiiicl so 
 numerous and expert a band of marauders as Bridgtr's 
 men, assisted by the Crows, proved themselves to be ; for 
 by the return of spring Montero had very little remaining; 
 of the property belonging to the fort, nor anything to sho\v 
 for it. This mischievous war upon Bonneville was promrt- 
 ed partly by the usual desire to cripple a rival trader, 
 which the leaders encouraged in tlieir men ; but in some 
 individual instances far more by the desire for revengp 
 upon Bonneville personally, on account of his censurej 
 passed upon the members of the Monterey expedition, 
 and on the v/ays of mountain-men generally. 
 
 About the first of January, Fontenelle, wUh four men, 
 and Captain Stuart's party, left camp to go to St. Lci 
 for supplies. At Fort Laramie Fontenelle committed sui- 
 cide, in a fit of mania apotu, and his men returned to 
 camp with the news. 
 
DISSIPATION IN CAMP. 
 
 225 
 
 ! :i 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 1837. The fate of Fonteiielle should have served as a 
 warnins: to his associates and fellows. ' Should have done ' 
 however, are often idle words, and as sad as they are idle ; 
 they match the poets 'might have been,' in their regret- 
 ful 'inpotency. Perhaps there never was a winter camp 
 in tiie mountams more thoroughly demoralized than that 
 of Bridger during the months of January ond February. 
 Added to the whites, who were reckless enough, were a 
 considerable party of Delaware and Shawnee Indians, ex- 
 cellent allies, and skillful hunters and trappers, but having 
 the Indian's love of strong drink. " Times were pretty 
 good in the mountains," according to the mountain-man's 
 notion of good tines ; that is to say, beaver was plenty, 
 caraji large, and alcohol abundant, if dear. Under these 
 fivorable circumstarce much alcohol was consumed, and 
 its ir^uence was felt in the manners no< only of the trap- 
 pers, white and red, but also upon the neighboring In- 
 dians. 
 
 The Crows, who had for two years been on terms of a 
 sort of semi-amity with the whites, found it to their in- 
 terest to conciliate so powerful an enemy as the American 
 Fur Company was now become, and made frequent visits 
 to the camp, on which occasion they usually succeeded in 
 obtaining a taste of the fire-water oi' which they were in- 
 ordinately fond. Occasionally a trader was permitted to 
 sell licjuor to the whole village, when a scene took place 
 
 r 
 
 'iji 
 
 f — 
 
 '1 ' 
 
 If 
 
22G 
 
 A CROW CAROUSAL — PICKED CROWS. 
 
 whose peculiar horrors wore wholly iudcscribablo, from the 
 inability of language to convey an adequate idea of its 
 hellisli degradation. When a trader sold alcohol to a 
 village it was understood both by himself and the Indians 
 what was to follow. And to secure the trader against in- 
 jury a certain number of warriors were selected out of 
 the village to act as a police force, and to guard the trader 
 during the 'drunk' from the insane passions of his cus- 
 tomers. To the police not a drop was to be given. 
 
 This being arranged, .^nd the village disarmed, the ca- 
 rousal began. Every individual, man, woman, and child, 
 w^as permitted to become intoxicated. Every form of 
 drunkenness, from the simple stupid to the silly, the he- 
 roic, the insane, the beastly, the murderous, displayed 
 itself The scenes which were then enacted beggared de- 
 scription, as they .shocked the senses of even the hard- 
 drinking, license-loving trappers who witnessed them. 
 That they did not "point a moral" for these men, is the 
 strangest part of the whole transaction. " .tl"" 
 
 When everybody, police excepted, was drunk as drunk 
 could h(\ the trader began to dilute his alcohol with water, 
 until finally his keg contained water only, slightly flavored 
 by the washings of the keg, and as they continued to 
 drink of it without detecting its weak quality, they finally 
 drank themselves sober, and were able at last to sum up 
 the cost of their intoxication. This was generally nothing 
 less than the whole property of the village, added to which 
 were not a few personal injuries, and usually a few mur- 
 ders. The village now being poor, the Indians were cor- 
 respondingly humble ; and were forced to begin a system 
 of reprisal by stealing and making war, a course for which 
 the traders were prepared, and which they avoided by 
 leaving that neighborhood. Such were some of the sins 
 and sorrows for which the American fur companies were 
 
mm 
 
 NIGHT VISIT TO THE BLACKFOOT VILLAGE. 
 
 227 
 
 answerable, and which detracted seriously from the re- 
 spect that the courage, and other good qualities of the 
 morntain-mcn freely commanded. 
 
 By the first of March these scenes of wrong and riot 
 v,'evc over, for that season at least, and camp commenced 
 moving back toward the Blackfoot country. After re- 
 crossing the mountains, passing the Bighorn, Clarke's, and 
 Rosebud rivers, they came upon a Blackfoot village on 
 the Yellowstono^ which as usual they attacked, and a bat- 
 tle ensued, in which Manhead, captain of the Delawares 
 was killed, another Delaware named Tom Hill succeeding 
 him in command. The fight did not result in any great 
 loss or gain to either party. The camp of Bridger fought 
 its way past the village, which was what thoy must do, in 
 order to proceed. 
 
 Meek, however, was not quite satis^'^d with the punish- 
 ment the Blackfeet had received foi ihc killing of Man- 
 head, who had been in the fight with him when the Ca- 
 mancbes attacked them on the plains. Desirous of doing 
 something on his own account, he induced a comrade 
 named LeBlas, to accompany him to the village, after night 
 had closed over the scene of the late contest. Stealing 
 into the village with a noiselessness equal to that of one 
 of Fcnniraore Cooper's Indian scouts, these two daring 
 trappers crept so near that they could look into the lodges, 
 and see the Indians at their favorite game of Hand. In- 
 ferring from this that the savages did not feel their losses 
 very severely, they determined to leave some sign of their 
 visit, and wound their enemy in his most sensitive part, 
 the horse. Accordingly they cut the halters of a number 
 of the animals, fastened in the customary manner to a 
 stake, and succeeded in getting oiF with nine of them, 
 which property they proceeded to appropriate to their 
 own use. ^ ' :■ ■ •• ■ -. ' • -^ 
 
 :0\4l 
 
^PP' 
 
 228 
 
 STANLEY, THE INDIAN PAINTER. 
 
 As the spring and summer advanced, Bridger's brigade 
 advanced into the mountains, passing the Cross Creek of 
 the Yellowstone, Twenty-five- Yard River, Cherry River, 
 and coming on to the head-waters of the Missouri spent the 
 early part of the summer in that locality. Between Gal- 
 latin and Madison forks the camp struck the great trail of 
 the Blackfeet. ^leek and Mark Head had fallen four or 
 five days behind camp, and being on this trail felt a good 
 deal of uneasiness. This feeling was not lessened by 
 seeing, on coming to Madison Fork, the skeletons of two 
 men tied to or suspended from trees, the flesh eaten off 
 their bones. Concluding discretion to be the safest pari 
 of valor in this country, they concealed themselves by dny 
 and traveled by night, until camp was finally reached 
 near Henry's Lake. On this march they forded a flooded 
 river, on the back of the same mule, their traps placed on 
 ihe other, and escaped from pursuit of a dozen yell'.ijg 
 savages, who gazed after them in astonishment; "taking 
 their mule," said Mark Head," to be a beaver, and them- 
 selves great medicine men. " That," said Meek, "is what 
 I call 'cooning' a river." 
 
 From this point Meek set out wath a party of thirty or 
 forty trappers to travel up the river to head-waters, accom- 
 panied by the famous Indian painter Stanley, whose party 
 was met with, this spring, traveling among the mountains. 
 The party of trappers were a day o^ two ahead of the 
 main camp when they found themselves following close 
 after the big Blackfoot village which had recently passed 
 over the trail, as could be seen l)y the usual signs; and 
 also by the dead bodies strewn .'long the trail, victims of 
 that horrible scourge, the small pox. The village was evi- 
 dently fleeing to the mountains, lioping to rid itself of the 
 plague in their colder and more salubrious air. 
 
 Not long after coming upon these evidences of prox- 
 
brigade 
 Ureck of 
 y River, 
 ipent the 
 een Gal- 
 t trail of 
 a four or 
 it a good 
 ened by 
 IS of two 
 3aten off 
 ifest pari 
 ;s by dny 
 
 reached 
 [I flooded 
 )laced on 
 1 yeir.iig 
 
 "taking 
 id them- 
 
 "is what 
 
 thirty or 
 
 s, accom- 
 
 Dse party 
 
 ountains. 
 
 . of the 
 
 11 g close 
 
 y passed 
 
 lis; and 
 
 ctlms of 
 
 was evi- 
 
 'If of the 
 
 of prox- 
 
 
DESPERATE FIGHT WITH BLACKFEET. 
 
 229 
 
 ■1 '' 
 
 [ 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 5 
 
 1 ^ 
 1 ^ 
 
 
 s 
 
 
 , ■< 
 
 
 ii T; 
 
 
 
 mm 
 
 '1. 
 
 
 1^ 
 
 1 W 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 Hyii 
 
 ^ V, 
 
 iiiiity to an enemy, a party of a hundred and fifty of their 
 warriors were discovered encamped in a defile or narrow 
 hottoiii enclosed by high blulfs, through which the trap- 
 pers Avould have to pass. Seeing that in order to pass this 
 war i)arty, and the village, which was about half a mile in 
 tidvance, there would have to be some fighting done, the 
 trappers resolved to begin the battle at once by attacking 
 their enemy, who was as yet ignorant of their neighbor- 
 hood In pursuance of this determination, Meek, Newell, 
 Mansfield, and Le Bias, commenced hostilities. Leaving 
 their horses in camp, they crawled along on the edge of 
 tlie overhanging bluff until opposite to the encampment 
 uf Blackfect, fii'ing on them from the shelter of some 
 buslies which grew among the rocks. But the Blackfeet, 
 though ignorant of the number of their enemy, were not 
 to be dislodged so easily, and aftef an hour or two of ran- 
 dom shooting, contrived to scale the bluff at a point higher 
 up, and to get upon a ridge of ground still higher than 
 that occupied by the four trappers. This movement dis- 
 lodged the latter, and they hastily retreated through the 
 bushes and returned to camp. 
 
 The next day, the main camp having come up, the fight 
 was renewed. While the greater body of the company, 
 with the pack-horses, were passing along ti.e high bluff 
 ovcrlianging them, the party of the day before, and forty 
 or fifty others, undertook to drive the Indians out of the 
 bottom, and by keeping them engaged allow the train to 
 pass in safety. The trappers rode to the fight on this oc- 
 casion, and charged the Blackfeet furiously, they having 
 joined the village a little farther on. A general skirmish 
 now took place. Meek, who was mounted on a fine horse, 
 was in the thickest of the fight. He had at onci time a 
 side to side race with an Indian who strung his bow so 
 
 ,■'■6. 
 
230 
 
 THE TRAPPERS LAST SHOT. 
 
 hard that tlie an'ow dropped, just as Mock, who had loaded 
 his giin ruiiiiiiig, was ready to fire, and the Indian dropped 
 after his arrow. 
 
 Newell too had a desperate conflict with a half-dead 
 warrior, who having fallen from a wound, he thought dead 
 and was trying to scalp. Springing from his liorse he 
 seized the Indian's long thick hair in one hand, and with 
 his knife held in the other made a pass at the scalp, when 
 the savage roused up knife in hand, and a struggle took 
 place in which it was for a time doubtful which of the 
 combatants would part with the coveted scalp-lock. New- 
 ell might have been glad to resign the trophy, and leave 
 the fallen warrior his tuft of hair, but his fingers were in 
 some way caught by some gun-screws with which the sav- 
 age had ornamented his coiffure^ and would not part com- 
 pany. In this dilemma there was no other alternative but 
 fight. The miserable savage was dragged a rod or two in 
 the struggle, and finally dispatched. "i-;^ 
 
 Mansfield also got into such close quarters, surrounded 
 by the enemy, that he gave himself up for lost, and called 
 out to his comrades: "Tell old Gabe, (Bridgcr,) that old 
 Cotton (his own sobriquet) is gone." He lived, however, 
 to deliver his own farewell message, for at this critical 
 juncture the trappers were re-inforced, and relieved. Still 
 the fight went on, the trappers gradually working their 
 way to the upper end of the enclosed part of the valley, 
 past the point of danger. 
 
 Just before getting clear of this entanglement Meek be- 
 came the subject of another picture, by Stanley, who was 
 viewing the battle from the heights above the valley. 
 The picture which is well known as "The Trapper's Last 
 Shot," represents him as he turned upon his horse, a fine 
 and spirited animal, to discharge his last shot at an Indian 
 
 ■. i 
 
A TALK WITH LITTLE-ROHE. 
 
 231 
 
 pursuing, wliile in the bottom, at a little distance away, 
 other Indians arc seen skulking in the tall reedy grass. 
 
 The last shot having been discharged with fatal effect, 
 our trapper, so persistently lionized by painters, put his 
 horse to his. utmost speed and soon after overtook the 
 camp, which had now passed the strait of danger. But 
 the Blackfeet were still unsatisfied with the result of the 
 contest. They followed after, reinforced from the village, 
 and attacked the camp. In the fight which folloAved a 
 Blackfoot woman's horse was shot down, and Meek tried 
 to take her prisoner : but two or three of her people com- 
 
 ■i 
 
 4j 
 
 "AND THEREBY HANGS A TAIL. 
 
 ing to the rescue, engaged his attention ; and the woman 
 was saved by seizing hold of the tail of her husband's 
 horse, which setting off at a run, carried her out of 
 danger. 
 
 The Blackfeet found the camp of Bridger too strong 
 for them. They were severely beaten and compelled to 
 retire to their village, leaving Bridger free to move on. 
 The following day the camp reached the village of Little- 
 Robe, a chief of the Peagans, who held a talk with Bridger, 
 
 '■iyf^-.} 
 
 
 "^.a.. 
 
232 
 
 AN INDUN IN THE WIIONQ CAMP. 
 
 complaining that his nation were all perishing from the 
 Hniall-[)ox which had been given to them by the whites. 
 Bridgcr was able to explain to Little-Robe his error; in- 
 asmuch as although the disease might have originated 
 among the whites, it was conununicated to the Blackfeet 
 by Jim Bcckwith, a negro, and principal chief of their 
 enemies the Crows. This unscrupulous wretch had caused 
 two infected articles to be taken from a Mackinaw boat, 
 up from St. Louis, and disposed of to the Blackfeet— 
 whence the horrible scourge under which they were suf- 
 fering. 
 
 This matter being explained, Little-Robe consented to 
 trade horses and skins ; and the two camps parted amica- 
 bly. The next day after this friendly talk, Bridger being 
 encamped on the trail in advance of the Blackfeet, an In- 
 dian came riding into camp, with his wife and daughter, 
 pack-horse and lodge-pole, and all his worldly goods, un- 
 aware until he got there of the snare into which he had 
 fallen. The French trappers, generally, decreed to kill 
 the man and take possession of the woman. But Meek, 
 Kic Carson, and others of the American trappers of the 
 better sort, interfered to prevent this truly savage act 
 Meek took the woman's horse by the head, Carson the 
 man's, the daughter following, and led them out of camp. 
 Few of the Frenchmen cared to interrupt either of these 
 two men, and they were suffered to depart in peace. 
 When at a safe distance. Meek stopped, and demanded as 
 some return for having saved the man's life, a present of 
 tobacco, a luxury which, from the Indian's pipe, he sus- 
 pected him to possess. About enough for two chews was 
 the result of this demand, complied with rather grudg- 
 ingly, the Indian vieing with the trapper in his devotiou 
 to the weed. Just at this time, owing to the death of 
 
 ,.» i 
 
n 
 
 MR. GRAY AND UlS ADVENTURK8. 
 
 233 
 
 Fontcncllo, and a consequent delay in receiving supplies, 
 tobacco was scarce among the mountaineers. 
 
 Bridgcr's brigade of trappers met with no other serious 
 iulerniptions on their summer's march. They proceeded 
 to Henry's Lake, and crossing the Rocky Mountains, trav- 
 eled tlu-ough the Pine Woods, always a favorite region, to 
 Lewis' Lake on Lewis' Fork of the Snake River; and 
 linally up the Grovant Fork, recrossing the mountains to 
 Wind River, where the rendezvous for this year was ap- 
 pointed. 
 
 Here, once more, the camp was visited by a last years' 
 acquiuutance. This was none other than Mr. Gray, of the 
 Flathead Mission, who was returning to the States on bus- 
 iness connected with the missionary enterprise, and to 
 provide himself with a helpmeet for life, — a co-laborer 
 and sull'erer in the contemplated toil of teaching savages 
 the rudiments of a religion difficult even to the compre- 
 liensiou of an old civilization. 
 
 Mr. Gray was accompanied by two young men (whites) 
 who wished to return to the States, and also by a son of 
 one of the Flathead chiefs. Two other Flathead Indians, 
 and one Iroquois and one Snake Indian, were induced to 
 accompany Mr. Gray. The undertaking was not without 
 danger, and so the leaders of the Fur Company assured 
 him. But Mr. Gray was inclined to make light of the 
 danger, having traveled with entire safety when under the 
 protection of the Fur Companies the year before. He 
 proceeded without interruption until he reached Ash Hol- 
 low, iu the neighborhood of Fort Laramie, when his party 
 was attacked by a large band of Sioux, and compelled to 
 accept battle. The five Indians, with the whites, fought 
 bravely, killing fifteen of the Sioux, before a parley was 
 obtained by the intervention of a French trader who 
 
 
 4: !,i 
 
 1 i'i 
 
234 
 
 WASHACUE OF Mil. GRAY H INDIAN ALLIES. 
 
 
 chanced to be am()n«^ the Sioux. When Mr. Graywaa 
 able to hold a 'talk' with the attacking party he was as- 
 sured that his life and that of his two white associates 
 would be spared, but that they wanted to kill the strange 
 Indians and take their fine horses. It is not at all proba- 
 ble that Mr. Gray consented to this sacrifice; though he 
 has been accused of doing so. 
 
 No doubt the Sioux took advantage of some hesi- 
 tation on his j)art, and rushed upon his Indian allies in an 
 unguarded moment. However that may be, his allies 
 were killed and he was allowed to escape, after giving up 
 the property belonging to them, and a portion of his own. 
 
 This affair was the occasion of much ill-feeling towarti 
 ."Mr. Gray, when, in the following year, he returned to the 
 mountains with the talc of massacre of his friends and his 
 own escape. The mountain-men, although they used theii 
 influence to restrain the vengeful feelings of the Flathead 
 tribe, whis[)ercd amongst themselves that Gray had pre- 
 ferred his own life to that of his friends. The old Flat- 
 head chief too, who had lost a son by the massacre, was 
 hardly able to check his impulsive desire for revenge; for 
 he held Mr. Gray rcsponsiljle for his son's life. Nothing more 
 serious, however, grew out of this unhappy tragedy than a 
 disaffection among the tribe toward Mr. Gray, which made 
 his labors useless, and finally determined him to remove to 
 the Wallamet Valley. 
 
 There were no outsiders besides Gray's party at the ren- 
 dezvous of this year, except Captain Stuart, and he was 
 almost as good a mountaineer as any. This doughty 
 English traveler had the bad fortune together with that 
 experienced leader Fitzpatrick, of being robbed by the 
 Crows in the course of the fall hunt, in the Crow country. 
 These expert horse thieves had succeeded in stealing 
 
CAPT. STUART IIOHIIKD MY THE CUOWS. 
 
 235 
 
 noarly all the horsos holDiiging to tho joint camp, and had 
 so di.siil>l(!d tho company that it could not procc(;d. In 
 this einergoncy, Newell, who had long been a sub-trader 
 1111(1 was wise in Indian arts and wiles, was sent to hold a 
 talk with the thieves. The talk was held, according to 
 custom, in the the Medicine lodge, and the usual amount 
 of smoking, of long silences, and grave looks, had to be 
 piirtic'ipatcd in, before the subject on hand could be ©on- 
 sidercd. Then the chiefs complained as usual of wrongs 
 at tho hands of the white men ; of their fear of small-pox, 
 from which some of their tribe had suffered ; of friends 
 killed in battle with tho whites, and all the list of ills that 
 Cr( w flesh is heir to at the will of their white enemies. 
 Tho women too had their complaints to proffer, and the 
 number of widows and orphans in the tribe was pathetic- 
 ally sot forth. The chiefs also made a strong point of 
 this latter complaint ; and on it the wily Newell hung 
 his hopes of recovering the stolen property. 
 
 " It is true," said he to the chiefs, " that you have sus- 
 tained heavy losses. But that is not the fault of the Blan- 
 ket chief (Bridger.) If your young men have been killed, 
 they were killed when attempting to rob or kill our Cap- 
 tain's men. If you have lost horses, your young men have 
 stolen five to our one. If you are poor in skins and other 
 property, it is because you sold it all for drink which did 
 you no good. Neither is Bridger to blame that you have 
 had the small-pox. Your own chief, in trying to kill your 
 enemies the Blackfeet, brought that disease into the coun- 
 try. 
 
 " But it is true that } ou have many widows and orphans 
 to support, and that is bad. I pity the orphans, and will 
 help you to support them, if you will restore to my cap- 
 tain the property stolen from his camp. Otherwise 
 Bridger will bring more horses, and plenty of ammuni- 
 
 I'*) 
 
mf^ 
 
 236 
 
 newf:ll's address to the chow chiefs. 
 
 tion, and there will bo more widows and orphans amonc 
 the Crows than evb^ before." 
 
 This was a kind of logic easy to understand and cjiiick 
 to conviii e among savages. The bribe, backed by a threat, 
 settled the question of the restoration of the horses, which 
 were returned w^ithout further delay, and a present of 
 blankets arif] trinkets was given, ostensibly to the bereaved 
 women, really to the covetous v^'^iefs. 
 
 ■;»■• 
 
 ■;/f»" 
 
DECLINE OF THE FUR TRADE. 
 
 23T 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 ■.•/4 ■ 
 
 1837. The decline of the business of hunting furs be- 
 gftii to be quite obvious about this time. Besides the 
 American and St. Louis Coippanies, and the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, there "weic rxumerous lone traders with whom 
 the ground was divided. The autumn of this year was 
 spent hy the American Company, as formerly, in trapping 
 beaver on the streams issuing from the eastern side of the 
 Rocky Mountains. When the cold weather finally drove 
 the Fur Company to the plains, they went into winter 
 quarters once more in the r.eip-bborhood of the Crows on 
 Powder River. Here were re-enacted the wild scenes of 
 the previous winter, both trappers and Indians being 
 given up to excesses. 
 
 On the return of spring, Bridger again led his brigade 
 all through the Yellowstone country, to the streams on 
 the north side of the Missouri, to the head-waters of that 
 rivev; and finally rendezvoused on the north fork of the 
 Yellowstone, near Yellowstone Lake. Though the amoiint 
 of furs taken on the spring hunt was considerable, it was 
 hy no means equal to former years. The fact was becom- 
 ing apparent that the beaver was being rapidly extermin- 
 ated. 
 
 However there was beaver enough in camp to furnish 
 the means for the usual profligacy. Horse-racing, betting, 
 gamhling, drinking, were freely indulged in. In the 
 midst of this " fun," there appeared at the rendezvous Mr. 
 
 
 
 S '^kH' 
 
 ! K a 
 
 fi. ' % J!i- 
 
 
238 
 
 A MISSIONARY PART f — A WAR DANCE. 
 
 Gray, novf accompanied by ^Irs. Gray and six other mission- 
 ary ladies I'nd gentlemen. Here also were two gentlemen 
 from the ]\'L'thodist mission on the Wallamet, who were 
 returning to the States. Captain Stuart was still traveling 
 with the Fur Company, and was also present with hi? 
 party ; besides which a Hudson's Bay trader named Ema- 
 tinger was encamped near by. As if actuated to extra- 
 ordinary displays by the unusual number of visitors, espe- 
 cially the four ladies, both trappers and Indians conducted 
 themselves like the mad-caps they were. The Shawnees 
 and Delawares danced their great war-dance before the 
 tents of the missionaries ; and Joe Meek, not to be out- 
 done, arrayed himself in a suit of armor belonging to Cap- 
 tain Stuart and strutted about the encampment ; then 
 mounting his horse played the part of an ancient kiiight, 
 ^ lib. a good deal of eclat. 
 
 Meek had not abstained from the alcohol kettle, but had 
 oifered it and partaken of it rather more freely than usual; 
 so that when rendezvous was broken up, the St. Louis 
 Company gone to the Popo Agio, and the American Com- 
 pany going to Wind River, he found that his wife, a Nez 
 Perce who had succeeded Umentucken in his affections, 
 had taken offence, or a fit of homesickness, which wui 
 synonymous, and departed with the party of Ematinger 
 and the missionaries, intending to visit her people at 
 Walla- Walla. This desertion wounded Meek's feelings; 
 for he prided himself on his courtes^' to the sex, and did 
 not like to think that he had not behaved handsomely. 
 All the more was he vexed with himself because his spouse 
 had carried with her a pretty and sprightly baby-daugh- 
 ter, of whom the father was fond and proud, and who had 
 been christened Helen Mar, after one of the heroines of 
 Miss Porter's Scottish Chiefs — a book much admired in 
 the mountain^, as it has been elsewhere. 
 

 PURSUIT OF A RUNAWAY SPOUSE. 
 
 239 
 
 Tlicroforc at the first camp of the American Company, 
 Meek resolved to turn his back on the company, and go 
 after the motlicr and daughter. Obtaining a fresh kettle 
 of alcohol, to keep up his spirits, he left camp, returning 
 toward the scene of the late rendezvous. But in the eftbrt 
 to keep up his spirits he had drank too much alcohol, and 
 the result was that on the next morning he found himself 
 alone on the Wind River Mountain, with his horses and 
 pack mules, and vciy sick indeed. T.alving a little more 
 alcohol to brace up his nerves, he stnrted on again, pass- 
 ing around the mountain on to the Sweetwater ; thence to 
 the Sand}', and thonce across a country without water for 
 seventy-live miles, to Green River, where the camp of Ema- 
 tingcr was overtaken. 
 
 The heat 'was excessive ; and the absence of water made 
 the journey across the arid plain between Sandy and 
 Green Rivers one of great suffering to the traveler and 
 his animals ; and the more so as the frequent references to 
 the alcohol kettle only increased the thirst-fev(5r instead 
 of allaying it. But Meek was not alone in suffering. 
 About half way across the scorching plain he discovered a 
 solitaiy woman's figure standing in the trail, and two 
 riding horses near her, whose drooping heads expressed 
 their dejection. On coming up with this strange group, 
 Mock found the woman to be one of the missionary ladies, 
 a Mrs. Smith, and that her husband was lying on the 
 ground, djing, as the poor sufferer believed himself, for 
 water. 
 
 Mrs. Smith made a weeping appeal to Meek for water 
 for her dying husband ; and truly the poor woman's situ- 
 ation was a pitial)le one. Behind camp, with no protec- 
 tion from the perils of the desert and wilderness — only a 
 terrible care instead — the necessity of trying to save her 
 husband's life. A 3 no water was to be had, alcohol was 
 16 
 
 .i:l 
 ■..% 
 
 
 '■.(- 1;- 
 
240 
 
 MKEK ABUSKS A MISSIONAllV 
 
 ofleretl to the famishing man, who, however, could not Lo 
 aroused from his stupor of wretchedness. Seeing that 
 death really awaited the unlucky missionary unless some- 
 thing could be done to cause him to exert himself, Meek 
 commenced at once, and with unction, to abuse the man 
 for his unm.inliness. His style, thougli not very refined, 
 was certainly very vigorous. 
 
 "You're a pretty fellow to be lying on the 
 
 ground here, lolling your tongue out of your mouth, and 
 trying to die. Die, if you want to, you're of no account 
 and will never be missed. Here's your wife, who you 
 are keeping standing here in the hot sun ; why don't she 
 die ? She's got more pluck than a white-livered chap like 
 you. But I'm not going to leave her waiting here for 
 you to die. Thar's a band of Indians behind on the trail, 
 and I've been riding like — to keep out of their way. 
 If you want to stay here and be scalped, you can stay; 
 Mrs. Smith is going with me. Come, modam," continued 
 Meek, leading up her horse, " let me help you to mount, 
 for we must get out of this cursed country as fast as pos- 
 sible." 
 
 Poor Mrs. Smith did not wish to leave her husband; nor 
 did she relish the notion of staying to be scalped. Despair 
 tugged at her heart-strings. She would have sunk to the 
 ground in a passion of tears, but Meek was too much in 
 earnest to permit precious time to be thus wasted. " Get 
 on your horse," said he rather roughly. " You can't save 
 your husband by staying here, crying. It is better that 
 one should die than two ; and he seems to be a worthless 
 dog anyway. Let the Indians have him." 
 
 Almost lifting her upon the horse. Meek tore the dis- 
 tracted woman away from her husband, who had yet 
 strength enough to gasp out an entreaty not to be left 
 
 
AND KIDNAPS HIS WIFE. 
 
 211 
 
 "You can fcjllow us if you chouse," said the apparently 
 merciless trapper, "or you can stay where you arc. Mrs. 
 Smith can find plenty of better men than you. Come, 
 in;i(liuu ! " and he gave the horse a stroke with his riding- 
 whip which started him into a rapid pace. 
 
 The unhnppy wife, whose conscience reproached her 
 for leaving her husband to die alone, looked back, and 
 saw liim raising his head to gaze ai>-er them. Her grief 
 broke out afresh, and she would ha^e gone back even 
 then to remain with him : but Meek was firm, and again 
 started up her horse. Before they were quite out of sight. 
 Meek turned in his saddle, and beheld the dying man sit- 
 ting up. "Hurrah;" said he: "he's all right. He Avill 
 overtake us in a little Avhilc : " and as he predicted, in 
 little over an hour Smith came riding up, not more than 
 half dead by this time. The party got into camp on 
 Green River, about eleven o'clock that night, and Mrs. 
 Smith having told the story of her adventures with the 
 unknown trapper who had so nearly kidnaped her, the 
 laugh and the cheer went round among the company. 
 "That's Meek," said Ematinger, "you may rely on that. 
 He's just the one to kidnap a woman in that way." When 
 Mrs. Smith fully realized the service rendered, she was 
 ahuridantly grateful, and profuse were the thanks which 
 oiu' trapper received, even from the much-abused husband, 
 who Avas noAV thoroughly alive again. Meek failed to 
 persuade his Avife to return with him. She was homesick 
 for her people, and Avould go to them. But instead of 
 turning back, he kept on Avith Ematinger's camp as far as 
 Fort Hall, Avhich post Avas then in charge of Courtenay 
 Walker. 
 
 While the camp was at Soda Springs, Meek observed 
 the missionary ladies baking bread in a tin reflector before 
 ii lire. Bread Avas a luxu'y unknown to the mountain- 
 
242 
 
 MEEKS BLACK-EYED DAT'OHrEK. 
 
 man, — and as a sudden recollection of liis boyhood, and 
 the days of bread-and-butter came over him, his month 
 began to water. Almost against his will he continued to 
 hang round the missionary camp, thinking about the bread. 
 At length one of the Nez Perces, named James, whom the 
 missionary had taught to sing, at their request struck up 
 a hymn, which he sang in a very creditable manner. As 
 a reward of his pious proficiency, one of the ladies gave 
 James a biscuit. A bright thought struck our longing 
 hero's brain. ''Go back," said ho to James, "and sing 
 another hymn ; and when the ladies give you another bis- 
 cuit, bring it to me." And in this manner, he obtained a 
 taste of the coveted luxury, bread — of which, during nine 
 years in the mountains he had not eaten. 
 
 At Fort Hall, Meek parted company with the missiona- 
 ries, and with his wife and child. As the little black-eyed 
 daughter took her departure in company with this new 
 element in savage life, — the missionary society, — her fa- 
 ther could have had no premonition of the fate to whieli 
 the admixture of the savage and the religious elements 
 was step by step consigning her. - ii>^,. 
 
 After remaining a few days at the fort. Meek, who found 
 some of his old comrades at this place, went trapping Avith 
 them up the Portneuf, and soon made up a pack of one 
 hundred and fifty beaver-skins. These, on returning to 
 the fort, he delivered to Jo. Walker, one of the American 
 Company's traders at that time, and took Walker's receipt 
 for them. He then, with Mansfield and Wilkins, set out 
 about the first of September for the Flathead country, 
 where Wilkins had a wife. In their company was an old 
 Flathead woman, who wished to return to her people, and 
 took this opportunity. 
 
 The weather was still extremely warm. Tt had been 
 a season of great drought, and the streams were nearly 
 
A FKXnVlih MARCH — INTKIv'Sl^ ISUFFEIMXG. 
 
 243 
 
 nil on(ir(ily dried up. The first night out, the horses, 
 (,ii;lit ill iiuiidtcr, stra}'ed olF in search of water, and were 
 1((>,',. Now coininenced a day of fearful sufferings. No 
 water had been found since leaving the fort. The loss of 
 llic hoi-scs made it necessary for the company to separate 
 1(1 look for them; Mansfield and Wilkins going in one di- 
 rection, Meek and the old Flathead woman in another. 
 The little coolness and. moisture which night had imparted 
 to the atmosphere was quickly dissipated by the unchecked 
 ravs of th*^' pitiless sun shining on a dry and barren plain, 
 wiili not a vestige of verdure anywhere in sight. On 
 aiitl on went the old Flathead woman, keeping always in 
 tiic advance, and on and on followed Meek, anxiously 
 scanning the horizon for a chance sight of the horses. 
 Higher and higher mounted the sun, the temperature in- 
 creasing in intensity until the great plain palpitated with 
 radintod heat, and the horizon flickered almost like a 
 llame where the burning heavens met the burning earth. 
 Meek had been drinking a good deal of rum at the fort, 
 which circumstance did not lessen the ten'ible consuming 
 thirst that was torturing him. , 
 
 Noini came, and passed, and still the heat and the suffer- 
 ing increased, the fever and. craving of hunger being now 
 added to that of thirst. On and on, through the whole 
 of that long scorching afternoon, trotted the old Flathead 
 woman in the peculiar traveling gait of the Indian and the 
 mountaineer, Meek following at a little distance, and go- 
 ing mad, as he thought, for a little water. And mad he 
 probably was, as famine sometimes makes its victims. 
 When night at last closed in, he laid down to die, as the 
 missionary Smith had done before. But he did not re- 
 member Smith: he only thought of water, and heard it 
 running, and fancied the old woman was lapping it like a 
 \volf. Then he rose to follow her and find it ; it was al- 
 
 f 
 
244 
 
 TKE OLD FLATHEAD WOMAN — WATER AT LAST. 
 
 ways just ahead, aud the woman was howling to him to 
 show him the trail. 
 
 Thus the night passed, and in the cool of the early 
 morning he experienced a little relief. lie was really 
 following his guide, wlio as on the day before was trottiiifj 
 on ahead. Then the thought possessed him to overtake 
 and kill her, hoping from her shriveled body to obtain a 
 morsel of ft)od, and drop of moisture. But his strength 
 was failing, and his guide so far ahead that he gave np 
 the thought as involving too great exertion, continuing 
 to follow her in a helpless aud hopeless kind of way. 
 
 At last ! There was no mistake this time : he heard 
 running water, and the old woman loas lapping it like a 
 wolf With a shriek of joy he ran and fell on his face 
 in the water, which was not more than one foot in depth, 
 nor the stream more than fifteen feet wide. But it had a 
 white pebbly bottom ; and the water was clear, if not very 
 cool. It was something to thank God for, which the none 
 too religious trapper acknowledged by a fervent " Thank- 
 God!" 
 
 For a long time he lay in the water, swallowing it, and 
 by thrusting his linger down his throat vomiting it up 
 again, to prevent surfeit, his whole body taking in the 
 welcome moisture at all its million pores. The fever 
 abated, a feeling of health returned, and the late perish- 
 ing man was restored to life and comparative happiness. 
 The stream proved to be Godin's Fork, and here Meek 
 and his faithful old guide rested until evening, in the 
 shade of some willows, where their good fortune was 
 completed by the appearance of Mansfield and Wilkins 
 with the horses. The following morning the men found 
 and killed a fat buffalo cow, whereby all their wants were 
 supplied, and good feeling restored in the little camp. 
 
 From Godin's Fork they crossed over to Salmon River, 
 
mm 
 
 m 
 
 ARRIVAL AT THE INDIAN VILLAGE. 
 
 245 
 
 and presently struck the Ncz Perce trail which loads from 
 tliat river over into the Beaver-head country, on the 
 Dcaver-head or .Tellerson Fork of the Missouri, where 
 tlicre was a Flathead and Nez Perce village, on or about 
 the present site of Virginia City, in Montana. 
 
 Not stopping long here. Meek and his companions went 
 on to the Madison Fork with the Indian village, and to 
 the shores of Missouri Lake, joining in the fall hunt for 
 bufliilo. 
 
 n^, 
 
 
 ih^.y 
 
24G 
 
 BUFFALO iiU.NXLNU. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 u 
 
 h 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 " Tell me all about a biiffiilo hunt," said the writer to 
 Joe Meek, as we sat at a \ iiidow overlooking the Colum- 
 bia River, where it has a beautiful stretch of broad waters 
 and curving wooded shores, and talking about mouutain 
 life, " tell me how you used to hunt buffalo." 
 
 " Waal, there is a good deal of sport in runnin' buffalo. 
 When the camp discovered a band, then every man that 
 wanted to run, made haste to catch his bufililo horse. We 
 sometimes went out thirty or forty strong ; sometimes two 
 or three, and at other times a large party started on the 
 hunt ; the more the merrier. Wo alway had groat banter- 
 ing about our horses, each man, according to his own 
 account, having the best one. 
 
 " When we fwst start we ride slow, so as not to alarm 
 the buffalo. The nearer we come to the band the greater 
 our excitement. The horses seem to feel it too, and are 
 worrying to be off When we come so near that the band 
 starts, then the word is given, our horses' mettle is up, 
 and away we go ! 
 
 " Thar may be ten thousand in a band. Directly we 
 crowd them so close that nothing can be seen but dust, 
 nor anything heard but the roar of their trampling and 
 bellowing. The hunter now keeps close on their heels to 
 escape being blinded by the dust, which does not rise as 
 high as a man on horseback, for thirty yards behind the 
 animals. As soon as we are close enough the firing begins, 
 
 I * ? i-! 
 
'm 
 
 
 I -t r~i 
 
 'i: 
 
'.:vv' 
 
 ;iS? 
 
THE PURSUIT — THE CHAUOE — TUMBLES. 
 
 247 
 
 mid iIk' 1)1111(1 is on tl»o run; and a In^rdof buHulocun run 
 iihoiit iis last as a good race-horse. How they do thunder 
 iildiif;! They give us a pretty sliarp race. Talce care! 
 Down <:()es a rider, and away goes his horse with the band. 
 Do you think we stopped to k>ok after the fallen m.an? 
 Not wo. Wo rather thought that war fun, and if he got 
 killi'il, why, 'he war unlucky, that wai* all. Plenty more 
 jufii : couldn't bother about him.' 
 
 "Tliar's a fat cow ahead. I force my way through tlie 
 build to come up with her. The bulfalo crowd around so 
 ditit I have to put my foot on them, now on one side, now 
 the otiier, to keep them off my horse. It is lively work, 
 1 ciin tell you. A man has to look shar[) not to be run 
 down by the band pressing him on ; builalo and horse at 
 the top of their speed. 
 
 "Look out ; thar's a ravine ahead, as you can see by the 
 ])liiiigc which the band makes. Hold uj) ! or somebody 
 goes to the d — 1 now. If the band is large it lills the 
 ravine full to the brim, and the hindmost of the herd pass 
 over on top of the foremost. It requires horseman- 
 ship not to be carried over without our own consent ; but 
 then we mountain-men are all good horsemen. Over the 
 ravine we go ; but we do it our own way. 
 
 "We keep up the chase for about four miles, selecting our 
 game as we run, and killing a number of flit cows to each 
 man ; some more and some less. "When our horses are 
 tired we slacken up, and turn back. We meet the camp- 
 keepers with pack-horses. They soon ])utchcr, pack up 
 the meat, and we all return to camp, whar we laugh at 
 each other's mishaps, and eat fat meat : and this constitutes 
 the glory of mountain life." 
 
 " But you were going to tell me about the buffalo hunt 
 at Missouri Lake ?" 
 
 " Thar isn't much to telL It war pretty much like other 
 
 ,'! . 'ill 
 
 .•*;> 
 
248 
 
 A HUNT WITH THE INDIANS. 
 
 Lufluhj liunts. Tliar war a lot of ns trappers happened to 
 l>o at a Ncz Pei-cc and r'latliead village in the lall of '38, 
 \v\wi\ they war aguiu' te- kill winter meat; and as their 
 hunt lay in the direction we war going, Ave joined in. Tlie 
 old Ncz Perce chief, Kow-e-so-te hud command of ihe vil- 
 lage, and W(! trappers had to obey him, too. 
 
 " We started oil' slow; nobody war allowed to go ahead 
 of camp. In this manner we cansed the bullalo 'o move 
 on before us. I'ut not to be alarmed. AYe war eight or ien 
 days traveling from the Boa,ver-head to Missouri Lake, and 
 by the time we got tiiar, the whole plain around the lake 
 war crowded with bufialo, and it war a splendid sight! 
 
 "In the morning the old chief hnrangued the men of his 
 village, and ordered us all to get ready for the surround, 
 .A.bout nine o'clock every man war mounted, and we began 
 to move. 
 
 "That v^ar a sight to make a man's blood warm! A 
 thousand men, all trained hunters, on horseback, carrying 
 their gMns, and with their horses painted in the height of 
 Indians' fashion. We advanced until within about half a 
 mile o^ the herd ; then the chief ordered us to deploy to 
 the right and left, until the wings of the column extended 
 a long way, and advance again. 
 
 "By this time the buffalo war all moving, and we had 
 come to within a hundred yards of them. Kow-e-so-te then 
 gave us the word, and away we went, pell-mell. Heavens, 
 what a charge ! What a rushing and roaring — men shoot- 
 ing, buffalo I allowing and trampling until the earth shook 
 under them ! 
 
 "It war the work of half an hour to slay ivfn thousand 
 or may be three thousand animals. When the work was 
 over, we took a view of the field. Here and there and 
 evervwhere, laid the slain buffalo. Occasionallv a horse 
 with a broken leg war seen ; or a .an with a broken arm; 
 or maybe he had fared worse, and hdd a broken head. 
 
KIT CARSOX AND THE FRENCHMAN. 
 
 ' 219 
 
 "Now came out the women of the village to liolj) ns 
 liiit •lier and pack np the meat. It war a l)ig jol) ; bnt wo 
 war not long about it. By nigl^ the camp war full of 
 meat, and everybody merry. Bridger's camp, which war 
 passing that way, traded with the village for lifteen huu- 
 (Irod buffalo tongues — the tongue l)eing reckoned a choice 
 |iart (if the animal. And that's the way we helped the 
 Xcz Forces hunt buffalo." 
 
 '' l)!it when you were hunting for your own subsistence 
 in camp, you sometimes went out in small parties?" 
 
 " Oh yes, it war the same thing on a smaller scale. One 
 time Kit Carson and myself, and .1 little Frenchnum, named 
 Marteau, went to run buffalo on Powder River. When 
 wc came in sight of the band it war agreed that Kit and 
 the Frenchman should do the running, and I should -^tiiy 
 witii the pack animals. The weather war very cold and I 
 (.lidii't like my part of the duty much. 
 
 "The Frenchman's horse couldn't run; so I lent h'm 
 mine. Kit rode his own ; not a good buffalo horse eith<;r, 
 In running, my horse fell with the Frenchman, and nea.ly 
 Idlled him. Kit, who couldn't make his horse catch, 
 jumped off, and caught mine, and tried it again. This 
 time he came up with the band, and killed four fat cows. 
 
 " When I came up with the pack-animals, I asked Kit 
 lioAv ho came by my horse. lie explained, and wanted to 
 know if I had seen anything of Marteau : said my horse 
 hail fallen with him, and he thought killed him. ' You 
 go over the other side of yon hill, and see,' said Kit. 
 
 " What'U I do with him if he is dead ?" said I. 
 
 '•Can't you pack him to camp?" 
 
 " Pack — " said I ; " I should rather pack a load of 
 meat." 
 
 "Waal," said Kit, " I'll butcher, if you'll go over and 
 see, anyhow." 
 
250 
 
 MOUNTAIN MANNERS. 
 
 "So I went over, and found the dead man leaning liis 
 head on his hand, and groaning ; for he war pretty bad 
 hurt. I got him on his horse, though, after a while, and 
 toolv liim back to whar Kit war at worlv. We soon finislipd 
 the butchering job, and started back to camp with our 
 wounded Frenchman, and tliree loads of fat meat." 
 
 " You were not very conipaysionate toward each other, 
 in the mountains?" 
 
 " Thjit war not our business. We had no time for sncli 
 things. Besides, live men war what we wanted; df.v: 
 ones war of no account." 
 
 r t 
 
THE SOLITARY TRAPPEU. 
 
 251 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 1838. From Missouri Lake, Monk started alone for the 
 Galliitiu Fork of the Missouri, trapping in a mountain 
 basin called Gardiner's Hole. Beaver were plenty here, 
 but it wu-i getting late in the season, and the weather was 
 cold in tiic mountains. On his return, in another basin 
 culled the Burnt Hole, he found a buffalo skull; and 
 knowing tba' Bridgcr's camp would soon pass that way, 
 wrote on it the number of beaver he had taken, and also 
 lii.^ intention to go to Fort Hall to sell them. 
 
 In a few days the camp passing found the skull, which 
 grinned its threat at the angry Booshways, as the chuck- 
 ling trapper had calculated that it would. To prevent its 
 execution runners were sent after him, who, however, 
 failed to find him, and nothing was known of the supposed 
 renegade for some time. But as Bridger passed through 
 Pierre's Hole, on his way to Green river to winter, he was 
 surjirisod at Meek's appearance in camp. He was soon 
 invited to the lodge of the Booshways, and called to ac- 
 count tor his .supposed apostacy. 
 
 Meek, for a time, would neither deny nor confess, but 
 put on his free trapper airs, and laughed in the fiice of 
 the Booshways. Bridger, who half Huspccted some trick, 
 took the maUor lightly, but Dripps was very much an- 
 noyed, and n»ade some threats, at which Meek only 
 laugluHJ the more. Finally the certificate from their own 
 imder, Js> Walker, was produced, the irnw pack of furs 
 
 mimm 
 
252 AMONG THE NEZ PEUCES ASKING FOR A WIFE. 
 
 surrendered, and Dripps' wrath turned into smiles of aii- 
 proval. 
 
 Here again Meek parted company with the main camp, 
 and went on an expedition Avith seven other trappers, un. 
 der Jolm Larison, lo the Sahnon River: but found the 
 cold very severe on this journey, and the grass scarce and 
 poor, so that f.he company lost most of their horses. 
 
 On arriving at the Nez Perce village in the Forks of 
 the Salmon, Meek found the old chief Kow-e-so-te full of 
 the story of the missionaries and their religion, and anx- 
 ious to hear preaching. Reports were continually arriv- 
 ing by the Indians, of the wonderful things which were 
 Ix'ing taught by Mr. and Mrs. Spalding at L^pwai, on the 
 Clearwater, and at Waiilatpu, on the Walla- Walla River 
 It was now nearly two years since these missions had been 
 founded, r.nd the number of converts among the Nez 
 Perces and Flatheads was already considerable. 
 
 Here was an opening for a theological student, such as 
 Joe Meek was! After some little assumption of modesty. 
 Meek intimated that he thought himself capable of giv- 
 ing instruction on religious subjects ; and being pressed 
 by the chief, finally consented to preach to Xoiv-e-so-ta 
 people. Taking care first to hold a private council with 
 his associates, and binding them not to betray him, Meek 
 preached his first sermon that evening, going regularly 
 through with the ordinary services of a "meeting." 
 
 These services were repeated whenever the Indian- 
 se'.nned to desire it, until Chrstraas, Then, the village 
 being about to start upon a hunt, the preacher took occa- 
 sion to intimate to the chief that a wife would be an 
 agreeable present. To this, however, Kow-e-so-te (de- 
 murred saying that Spalding's religion did not perait 
 men to have two wives : that the Nez Perces had many 
 of them given up their wives ou this account ; and that 
 
rOLYGAMY DEFENDED — VIKGINF \. 
 
 253 
 
 tlioroi'iio, since Meuk already had one wife among the Nez 
 IVircs, he conhl not have nnotlicr witliont being i'alsc to 
 tlio rehgion he professed. 
 
 To this perfectly clepr argument Meek replied, that 
 iMiioiig white men, if a man's wife left him without his 
 consent, as his had done, he could procure a divorce, and 
 take another wife. Besides, he could tell him how the 
 hihlc related many stories of its best men having several 
 wives. But Kow-€-so-fe was not easily convinced. He 
 could not see how, if the Bible approved of polygamy, 
 Spalding should insist on the Indians putting away all 
 l)ut one of their wives. "However," says Meek, "after 
 aliout two weeks' explanation of the doings of Solomon 
 and David, I succeeded in getting the chief to give me a 
 young girl, Avhom I called Virginia ; — my present wife, 
 and the mother of seven children." 
 
 After acconjpanying the Indians ai their hunt to the 
 Beavor-head country, where they found plenty of buffalo, 
 Meek remained with the Nez Perce village until about the 
 first of March, when he again intimated to the chief that 
 it was the custom of white men to pay their preachers. 
 Accordingly the people were notified, and the winter's 
 salary began to arrive. It amounted altogetlier to thir- 
 tcoii horses, and many packs of beaver, beside sheep-skins 
 and buffalo-robes ; so that he " considered that with his 
 young wife, he had made a pretty good winter's work 
 
 of it."' 
 
 In March ho net out trapping again, in company with 
 ono of his comrades named Allen, a man to whom he was 
 much attached. They traveled along up and down the 
 Salmon, to Godin's Biver, Henry's Fork of the Sinike, to 
 Pierre's Fork, and Lewis' Fork, and the Muddy, and 
 liiially set their trap^ on a little stream that runs out of 
 llio pass which leads to Pierre's Hole. 
 
 wm 
 
 
 n^ 
 
 
254 
 
 SURPRISED BY RLACKFEET DEATH OF ALLEN. 
 
 Leaving tlieir camp one moniinp^ to take up their traps, 
 they were discovered and attacked hy a party of Black- 
 feet just as they came near tlie trapping ground. The only 
 refuge at liand w»s a thickest of willows on the opposite 
 side of the creek, and towards this the trappers directed 
 their flight. Meek, who was in advance, succeeded in 
 gaining the thicket without being seen ; l)ut Allen stum- 
 bled and fell in crossing the stream, and wet his gun. He 
 cpiickly recovered his footing and crossed (ver; but the 
 Blackfeet had seen him enter the thicket, and came up to 
 within a short distance, yet not approaching too near the 
 place where they knew he was concealed. Unfortunately, 
 Allen, in his anxietj to be ready for defense, commenced 
 snapping caps on his gun to dry it. The quick ears of the 
 savages caught the sound, and understood the meaning 
 of it. Knowing him to be defenceless, they plunged into 
 the thicket after him, shooting him almost immediately, 
 and dragging him out still breathing to a small prairie 
 about two rods awny. 
 
 And now commenced a scene which Meek was com- 
 pelled to witness, and wliich he declares nearly made him 
 insane through sympathy, fear, horror, and suspense as to 
 his own fate. Those devils incarnate deliberately cut up 
 their still palpitating victim into a hundred pieces, each 
 taking a piece; accompanying the horrible and inhuman 
 butchery with every conceivable gesture of contempt for 
 the victim, and of hellish delight in their own acts. 
 
 Meek, who was only concealed by the small patch of 
 willows, and a pit in the sand hastily scooped out with 
 his knife until it was deep enough to lie in, was in a state 
 of the most fearful excitement. All day long he had to 
 endure the horrors of his position. Every moment seemed 
 an hour, eveiy hour a day, until Avhen night came, and the 
 Indians left the place, he was in a high state of fever. 
 
THE LAST RENDEZVOUS. 
 
 255 
 
 About nine o'clock that night ho vonturod to crcop to 
 till' cdi^e of the little prairie, where he lay and listened a 
 liMiir time, without hearing anything but the squirrels 
 niiiiiiiig over the dry leaves; but which he constantly 
 loured was the stealthy approach of the enemy. At last, 
 however, he summoned courage to crawl out on to the open 
 (rroiiiid, and gradually to work his way to .a wooded blulT 
 not fur distant. The next day he found two of his horses, 
 and with these set out alone for Green River, where the 
 American Company was to rendezvous. After twenty-six 
 (lays of solitary and cautious travel he r"ached the ap- 
 ])(iinied place in safety, having suffered fearfully from the 
 recollection of the tragic scene lie had witnessed in the 
 death of his friend, and also from L^oli" do and want of 
 food. 
 
 The rendezvous of this year was at Bonneville's old 
 fort on Green River, and was the last one held in the 
 mountains by the American Fur Company. Beaver was 
 crowing scarce d competition was strong. On the dis- 
 l)anding of the o-jjupany, some went to Santa Fe, some to 
 f'alifurnia, others to the Lower Columbia, and a few re- 
 mained in the mountains trap])ing, and selling their furs 
 to the Hudson's Bay Company at Fort Hall. As to the 
 leaders, some of them continued for a few years longer to 
 trade with the Indians, and others returned to the States, 
 to lose their fortunes more easily far than they made them. 
 
 Of the men who remained in the mountains trapping, 
 
 that year. Meek was one. Leaving his wife at Fort Hall, 
 
 he set out in company with a Shawnee, named Big Jim, 
 
 to take beaver on Salt River, a tributary of tht Snake. 
 
 The two trappers had each his riding and his pack horse, 
 
 and at night generally picketed them all ; but one night 
 
 Big Jim allowed one of his to remain loose to graze. 
 
 This horse, after eating for some hours, came back and 
 17 
 
 ' ' :M 
 
25G 
 
 COLD AND STARVATION. 
 
 laid down boliind the other horses, and every now and 
 then raised up liis head ; whieh slight movement at leiigtli 
 aroused Big Jim's attention, and his suspicions also. 
 
 "My friend," said he in a whisper to Meek, "Indian 
 steal our horses." 
 
 "Jump up and shoot," was the brief answer. 
 
 Jim shot, and ran out to see the result. Directly he 
 came back saying: "My friend, I slioot my horse; break 
 him neck ;" and Big Jim became disconsolate over what 
 his white comrade considered a very good joke. 
 
 The hunt was short and not very remunerative in furs. 
 Meek soon returned to Fort Hall ; and when he did so, 
 found his new wife had left that post in company with a 
 party under Newell, to go to Fort Crockett, on Green 
 River, — NewelFs wife being a sister of Virginia's,— on 
 learning which he started on again alone, to join that party. 
 On Bear lliver, he fell in with a portion of that Quixotic 
 band, under Farnhaui, which was looking for paradise and 
 perfection, something on the Fourier plan, somewhere in 
 this western wilderness. They had already made the dis- 
 covery in crossing the continent, that perfect disinterest- 
 edness was lacking among themselves; and that the 
 nearer they got to their western paradise the farther olf it 
 seemed in their own minds. 
 
 Continuing his jounT-y alone, soon nfter parting from 
 Farnhara, he lost the hi "nmer of Ills gun, wiiich accident 
 deprived him of the m lans of subsisting himself, and he 
 had no dried meat, nor provisions of any kind. The 
 Aveather, too, was very cold, increasing the necessity for 
 food to support animal heat. llovv(3ver, the deprivation 
 of food was one of the accidents to which mountain-men 
 were constantly liable, and one from which he had often 
 suffered severely; therefore ho pushed on, without feeling 
 any unusual alarm, and had arrived within fifteen miles 
 
SETTING UP IN TRADE, 
 
 257 
 
 of ili(! fort before ho yielded to the feeling of oxhanstion, 
 and laid down beside the trail to rest. Whether he would 
 ever Iiiivc finished the journey alone ho could not tell ; but 
 tortimiitcly for him, he was discovered by Jo Walker, and 
 Gordon, another acquaintance, who chanced to pass that 
 wav toward the fort. 
 
 Meek answered their hail, and inquired if they had any- 
 .'liin'!" to eat. Walker replied in the affirmative, and got- 
 tiiif down from his horse, produced some dried bulValo 
 meat which he gave to the famishing trapper. But seeing 
 tlit> ravenous manner in which he began to eat. Walker 
 iiKliiirod how long it had been since he had eaten any- 
 thin;^. 
 
 " Five days since I had a bite." 
 
 " Then, my man, you can't have any more just now," said 
 Walker, seizing the meat in alarm lest Meek should kill 
 liiinsolf. 
 
 "It was hard to see that meat packed away again," says 
 Meek in relating his sufferings, " I told Walker that if my 
 gun had a hammer I'd shoot and eat him. But he talked 
 very kindly, and helped me on my horse, and we all went 
 on to the Fort." ■ 
 
 At Fort Crockett were Newell and his party, the remain- 
 der of Farnham's party, a trading party under St. Clair, who 
 owned the fort. Kit Crrson, and a number of Meek's former 
 associates, including Craig and Wilkins. Most of these 
 men, Othello-like, had lost their occupation since the dis- 
 banding of (ho American Fur Company, and were much at 
 a loss concerning the futiii'e. It was agreed betwen Newell 
 and Meek to lake what beaver they had to Fort Hall, to 
 trade for goods, and return to Fort Crockett, where they 
 wonld commence business on their own account with the 
 Indians. 
 
 Accordingly they set out, with one other man belonging 
 
 i'1 
 
258 
 
 A CASK OF CON'SCIKNCK. 
 
 1 
 
 . 1 
 
 to Fiirnhairi's former adliorcMits. Tluiv traveled t(j IIonrv'> 
 Fork, to lilack Fork, wliore Fort Hri(l<i:cr now is, to Bear 
 River, to Soda Springs, and finally to Fort Hall, siiU'ciiii" 
 much from cold, and finding very little to eat l)y thewav. 
 At Fort Hall, which was still in charge of Courteiiav 
 Walker, Meek and Newell remained a week, when, liaviiifr 
 purchased their goods and horses to pack them, theyoiuv 
 more set out on the long, cold journey to Fort Crockett, 
 They had fifteen horses to take care of and only one assist- 
 ant, a Snake Indian called Al. The return proved lui 
 arduous and ditTicult undertaking. The cold was very sp 
 vere; they had not been able to lay in a sufiicient stock of 
 provisions at Fort llall, and game there was none, on tliu 
 route. By the time they arrived at Ham's Fork the oiilv 
 atom of food they had left was a small piece of bacon whicli 
 they had been carefully saving to eat with any poor meat 
 they might chance to find. 
 
 The next morning after camping on Ham's Fork was 
 stormy and cold, the snow filling the air ; yet Snake Al, 
 with a promptitude by no means characteristic of him, rose 
 early <and went out to look after the horse.s. 
 
 "By that same token," said Meek to Newell, "Al lias 
 eaten ihe bacon." And so it proved, on investigation. 
 Al's uneasy conscience having acted as a goad to stir him 
 up to begin his duties in season. On finding his corijec 
 ture confirined. Meek declared his intention, should no 
 game be found before next day night, of killing and eat- 
 ing Al, to get back the stolen bacon. But Providence 
 interfered to save Al's bacon. On the following afternoon 
 the little party fell in with another still sualler but better 
 supplied party of travelers, comprising a Frenchman and 
 his wife. These had plenty of fat antelope meat, wliicli 
 they freely parted with to the needy ones, whom also they 
 accompanied to Fort Crockett. 
 
WAR UPON HOIIHK THIKVES. 
 
 259 
 
 It was now ('liristnms; and tho fostivilios wliicli look 
 pliit'c iit the Fort were attended with a good deal of rnni 
 tlriiikin,!^', in wl)irh Meek, aeeording to Ills custom, joined, 
 ;iii(l as a considerable portion of their stock in trade 
 consisted of this article, it may fairly be presumed that , 
 tlic hoine consumption of these two "h^ne traders" 
 ainoiuitod to the larger lialf of what they had with so 
 imicli trotd)le trans[)()rted from Fort Hall. In fact, "times 
 were l)ad enough " among the men so suddeidy thrown 
 ii])iiii tlieir own resources among the mountains, at a time 
 when tliat little creature, which had made mountain lii'e 
 tolerable, or possible, was fast being exterminated. 
 
 To make matters more serious, some of the worst of tho 
 now unemployed trappers had taken to a life of thieving 
 and iiiischicf which made enemies of the friendly Indians, 
 and was likely to prevent the better disposed from enjoy- 
 ing security among any of the tribes. A party of these 
 renegades, under a man named Thompson, went over to 
 Snake River to steal horses from the Ncz Pcrees. Not 
 suceoediiig in this, they robbed the Snake Indians of about 
 forty animals, and ran them off' to the Uintee, the Indians 
 following and complaining to the whites at Fort Crockett 
 that their people had been robbed by wdiite trappers, and 
 deiiKuiding restitution. 
 
 Aecordin; . ■ "^ndian law, when one of a tribe offends, 
 tlie whole ti"ibe i- responsible. Therefore if whites stole 
 their horses tiiey iuight take vengeance on any whites they 
 met, unless the property was restored. In compliance 
 with this well understood requisition of Indian law, a party ^ 
 was made up at Fort Crockett to go and retake the horses, f 
 and restore them to their rightful owners. This party 
 consisted of Meek, Craig, Newell, Carson, and twenty-five 
 others, under the command of Jo Walker. 
 
 The horses were found on an island in Green K-iver, the 
 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. M580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
260 
 
 GREEN RIVER CANYON. 
 
 robbers having domiciled themselves in an old fort at the 
 mouth of the Uintee. In order to avoid having a fi4t 
 with the renegades, whose white blood the trappers wero 
 not anxious to spill, Walker made an effort to get the horses 
 off the island undiscovered. But while horses and men 
 were crossing the river on the ice, the ice sinking with 
 them until the water was knee-deep, the robbers discovered 
 the escape of their booty, and charging on the trappers 
 tried to recover the horses. In this effort they were not 
 successful ; while Walker made a masterly flank movement 
 and getting in Thompson's rear, ran the horses into the 
 fort, where he stationed his men, and succeeded in keep- 
 ing the robbers on the outside. Thompson then com- 
 menced giving the horses away to a village of Utes in the 
 neighborhood of the fort, on condition that they should 
 assist in retaking them. On his side, Walker threatened 
 the Utes with dire vengeance if they dared interfere. The 
 Utes who had a wholesome fear not only of the trappers, 
 but of their foes the Snakes, declined to enter into the 
 quarrel. After a day of strategy, and of threats alterna- 
 ted with arguments, strengthened by a warlike display, 
 the trappers marched out of the fort before the faces of 
 the discomfitted thieves, taking their booty with them, 
 which was duly restored to the Snakes on their return to 
 Fort Crockett, and peace secured once more with that 
 people. 
 
 Still times continued bad. The men not knowing what 
 else to do, went out in small parties in all directions seek 
 ing adventures, which genernlly were not far to find. On 
 one of these excursions Meek went with a party down the 
 canyon of Green River, on the ice. For nearly a hundred 
 miles they traveled dov. n this awful canyon without find- 
 ing but one place where they could have come out; and 
 left it at last at the mouth of the Uintee. 
 
m^mff^m'^ 
 
 RUNNING ANTELOPES. 
 
 261 
 
 This passed the time until March. Then the company 
 of Nowcll and Meek was joined by Antoine Rubideau, 
 who had brought goods from Sante Fe to trade with the 
 hidians. Setting out in company, they traded along up 
 Green River to the mouth of Ham's fork, and camped. 
 The snow was still deep in the mountains, and the trappers 
 found great sport in running antelope. On one occasion 
 a large herd, numbering several hundreds, were run on to 
 the ice, on Green River, where they were crowded into 
 an air hole, and large numbers slaughtered only for the 
 cruel sport which they afforded. 
 
 But killing antelope needlessly was not by any means 
 the worst of amusements practiced in Rubideau's camp. 
 Thiit foolish trader occupied himself so often and so long 
 in playing Hand,, (an Indian game,) that before he parted 
 with his new associates he had gambled away his goods, 
 his horses, and even his wife; so that he returned to Santa 
 Fe nnich poorer than nothing — since he was in debt. 
 
 On the departure of Rubideau, Meek went to Fort ITall, 
 and remained in that neighborhood, trapping and trading 
 for the Hudson's Bay Company, until about the last of 
 June, when he started for the old rendezvous places of the 
 American Companies, hoping to find some divisions of them 
 at least, on the familiar camping ground. But his journey 
 was in vain. Neither on Green River or Wind River, 
 where for ten years he had been accustomed to meet the 
 loaders and their men, his old comrades in danger, did he 
 find a wand(;ring brigade even. The glory of the Ameri- 
 can eonij)an;es was departed, and he found himself solitary 
 among his long familiar haunts. 
 
 \\ ith many melancholy reflections, the man of twenty- 
 oiirht years of age recalled how, a mere boy, he had fallen 
 half unawares into the kind of life he had ever since 
 
 '.,■1 
 
262 
 
 REFLECTIONS AND UALF-UESOLVES. 
 
 li 
 
 led amongst the mountains, with only other men equally 
 the victims of circumstance, and the degraded savages, for 
 his companions. The best that could be made of it, 
 such lil'e had been and must be constantly deteriorating 
 to the minds and souls of himself and his associates. 
 Away from all laws, and refined habits of living; awav 
 from the society of religious, modest, and accomplished 
 women ; always surrounded by savage scenes, and forced 
 to cultivate a taste for barbarous things — what had this 
 life made of him ? what was he to do with himself in the 
 future? 
 
 Sick of trapping and hunting, with brief intervals of 
 carousing, he felt himself to be. And then, even if he 
 were not, the trade was no longer profitable enough to 
 support him. What could he do? where could he go? 
 Ho remembered his talk .vith Mrs. Whitman, that fair, 
 tall, courteous, and dignified lady who had stirred in him 
 longings to return to the civilized life of his native state. 
 But he felt unfit for the society of such as she. Would 
 he ever, could he ever attain to it now ? He had prom- 
 ised her he might go over into Oregon and settle down. 
 But could he settle down ? Should he not starve at try- 
 ing to do what other men, mechanics and farmers, do? 
 And as to learning, he had none of it; there was no hope 
 then of "living by his wits," as some men did — missiona- 
 ries and artists and school teachers, some of whom he had 
 met at the rendezvous. Heigho! to be checkmated in 
 life at twenty-eight, that would never do. 
 
 At Fort Hall, on his return, he met two more missiona- 
 ries and their wives going to Oregon, but these four did 
 not aflect him pleasantly ; he had no mind to go with 
 them. Instead, he set out on what proved to be his last 
 trapping expedition, with a Frenchman, named Mattileau. 
 
T 
 
 1 
 
 THE LAST TRAPPING EXPEDITION, 
 
 2G3 
 
 Tlicy visited the old trapping grounds on Pierre's Fork, 
 Lewis' Lake, Jackson's River, Jackson's Hole, Lewis 
 River and Salt River: but beaver were scarce; and it 
 was with a feeling of relief that, on returning by way 
 of Bear River, Meek heard from a Frenchman whom 
 he met there, that he was wanted at Fort llall, by his 
 fi-iend Newell, who had something to propose to him. . ■ 
 
 ^ 
 
 v/ 
 
 .■M.:^\ 
 
mmm 
 
 264 
 
 A. NEW aTAllI IN LliJi. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 ?H' 
 
 1 
 
 1840. When Meek arrived at Fort Hall, where Newell 
 was awaiting liiiii, he found that the latter had there the 
 two wagons whieh Dr. Whitman had left at the points on 
 the journey where further transportation by their means 
 had been pronounced impossible. The Doctor's idea of 
 finding a passable wagon-road over the lava plains and 
 the heavily timbered mountains lying between Fort Hall 
 and the Columbia River, seemed to Newell not so wild a 
 one as it wjis generally pronounced to be in the moun- 
 tains. At all events, he was prep^ired to undertake tlio 
 journey. The wagons were put in traveling order, and 
 horses and mules purchased for the expedition. 
 
 " Come," said Newell to Meek, "we are done with this 
 life in the mountains — done with wading in beaver-dams, 
 and freezing or starving alternately — done with Indian 
 trading and Indian fighting. The fur trade is dead in the 
 Rocky Mountains, and it is no place fc* us now, if ever it 
 was. We are young yet, and have life before us. We 
 cannot waste it here ; we cannot or will not return to the 
 States. Let us go down to the Wallamet and take farms. 
 There is already quite a settlement there made by the 
 Methodist Mission and the Hudson's Bay Company's re- 
 tired servants. 
 
 " I have had some talk with the Americans who have 
 gone down there, and the talk is that the country is going 
 to be settled up by our people, and that the Hudson's 
 
THE MOUNTAIN-MKN AS PIONEERS. 
 
 205 
 
 Biiv Company are not going to rule this country niiicli 
 loiwer. What do you say, Meek ? Shall we turn Ameri- 
 can settlers ?" 
 "I'll go where you do, Newell. What suits you suits 
 
 me. 
 
 '• I thought you'd say so, and that's why I sent for you, 
 Mi'C'k. In my Avay of thinking, a white man is a little 
 
 better than a Canadian Frenchman. I'll be if I'll 
 
 hang 'round a post of the Hudson's Bay Company. So 
 you'll go '?" 
 
 " I reckon I will ! What have you got for me to do ? 
 / haven't got anything to begin with but a wife and 
 baby!" 
 
 '• Well, you can drive one of the wagons, and take your 
 family and traps along. Nicholas will drive the other, 
 and rU play leader, and look after the train. Craig will 
 go also, so we shall be quite a party, with what strays 
 we shall be sure to pick up." 
 
 Thus it was settled. Thus Oregon began to receive 
 her first real emigrants, who were neither fur-traders nor 
 missionaries, but true frontiersmen — border-men. The 
 training which the mountain -men had received in the 
 service of the fur companies admirably fitted them to be, 
 what afterwards they became, a valuable and indispensa- 
 ble element in the society of that country in whose pe- 
 culiar history they played an important part. But we 
 must not anticipate their acts before we have witnessed 
 their gradual transformation from lawless rangers of the 
 wilderness, to law-abiding and even law-making and law- 
 c.xecuting citizens of an isolated territory. 
 
 In order to understand the condition of things in the 
 Wallumet Valley, or Lower Columbia country, it will be 
 necessary to revert to the earliest history of that territory, 
 as sketched in the first chapter of this book. A history 
 
 l:M 
 
 : 11 
 
 
 i 
 
 '•M- 
 
 W. 
 
 1 I'lJ 
 
 8 
 
 4*1 
 
 im^x 
 
266 
 
 CAPTAIN tJllAY OF Tllli SIIII' COLUMBIA, 
 
 1 
 
 of the fur companies is a history of Oregon up to the 
 year 18.'{4, so far as the occupation of the country wus 
 concerned. ]Jut its political history was begun long be- 
 fore — from the time (May lltli, 1792) when the captain 
 of a New EngUind coasting and fur-trading vessel entered 
 the great " River of the West," which nations had boon 
 hjoking for for a hundred years. At the very time when 
 the incpiisitive Yankee was heading his little vessel through 
 the white line of breakers at the mouth of the long-sought 
 river, a British exploring expedition was scanning the 
 shore between it and the Straits of Fuca, having wisely 
 declared its scientific opinion that there was no such river 
 on that coast. Vancouver, the chief of that expedition, 
 so assured the Yankee trader, whose views did not agree 
 Avith his own : and, Yankee-like, the trader turned back 
 to satisfy himself 
 
 A bold and lucky man was Captain Gray of the ship 
 Columbia. No explorer he — only an adventurous and, 
 withal, a prudent trader, with an eye to the main chance; 
 emulous, too, perhaps, of a little glory ! It is impossible 
 to conceive how he could have done this thing calmly. 
 We think his stout heart must have shivered somewhat, 
 both with anticipation and dread, as he ran for the " open- 
 ing," and plunged into the frightful tumult — straight 
 through the proper channel, thank God ! and sailed out 
 on to the bosom of that beautiful bay, twenty-five miles 
 by six, which the great river forms at its mouth. 
 
 We trust the morning was fine : for then Captain Gray 
 must have beheld a sight which a discoverer should re- 
 member for a lifetime. This magnificent bay, surrounded 
 by lofty hills, clad thick with noble forests of fir, and 
 fretted along its margin with spurs of the highlands, form- 
 ing other smaller bays and coves, into which ran streams 
 whose valleys were hidden among the hills. From beyond 
 
DIHCOVERV OF TIIK COLUMHIA. 
 
 2G7 
 
 (lie fiuiliost point, whoso dark ridge juttod across this in- 
 land sea, ilowod down tho deep, l)road river, whose course 
 and origin was still a magnificent mystery, hnt which in- 
 dicated by its volnme that it drained a mighty region of 
 niohalde great fertility and natliral wealth. Perhaps Cap- 
 tain (rray did not fully realize the importance of his dis- 
 covery. If the day was line, with a blue sky, and tlie 
 purple shadows lying in among the hills, with smooth 
 water before him and the foamy breakers behind — if he 
 felt what his discovery was, in point of importance, to 
 the world, ho was a proud and happy man, and enjoyed 
 tho reward of his daiing. 
 
 The only testimony on that head is the simple entry on 
 Ills log-book, telling us that he had named the river " Co- 
 lumbia s River ^'' — with an apostrophe, that tiny point 
 
 intimating much. 
 
 This was one ground of the American 
 
 claim, though Vancouver, after Gray had reported his 
 success to him, sent a lieutenant to explore the river, and 
 then claimed the discovery for England ! The next claim 
 of the United States upon the Oregon territory was by 
 virtue of the Florida treaty and the Louisiana purchase. 
 These, and the general one of natural boundaries, Eng- 
 land contested also. Hence the treaty of joint occupancy 
 for a term of ten years, renewable, unless one of the parties 
 to it gave a twelve-month's notice of intention to with- 
 draw. Meantime this question of territorial claims hung 
 over the national head like the sword suspended by a 
 hair, which statesmen delight in referring to. We did 
 not dare to say Oregon was ours, because we were afraid 
 England would make war on us ; and England did not 
 dare say Oregon was hers, for the same reason. There- 
 fore "joint-occupancy" was the polite word with which 
 statesmen glossed over the fact that Great Britain actually 
 possessed the country through the monopoly of the Hud- 
 
 
 -'I 
 
2G8 
 
 PLANS FOR COLONIZING OllEOON. 
 
 son's Bay Company. That company had a good tiling so 
 ]()n<^' as the fj^overnincnt of (ircat Britain prevented any 
 outbreak, by simply renewing the treaty every ten years. 
 Their manner of doing business was such as to prevent 
 any less powerful corporation from interfering with them, 
 wliile individual enterprise was sure to be crushed at the 
 start. 
 
 Meanwhile the Yankee nation, some members of which 
 at one time had vessels tratling on the northwest coast, 
 became uneasy at this state of affairs. Since the war of 
 1812 and the failure of Astor's expedition, their vessels 
 had been driven oil' that coast, or had been fain to con- 
 tent themselves with picking up cargoes of hides and tal- 
 low i'roin the Indian missions in California. It was not in 
 Yankee nature to stand this foreign monopoly. As if 
 they had not land enough on the eastern side of the 
 Rocky Mountains, they began to expatiate on the beau- 
 ties and excellencies of the country which lay beyond. 
 
 As early as 1817, even before the obnoxious Conven- 
 tion, a Bostonian school teacher, named Hall J. Kelly, had 
 conceived the idea of colonizing the Oregon territory. 
 He labored to impress others with the views which he 
 held, and formed many emigration schemes, besides me- 
 morializing Congress on the subject, as well as the legisla- 
 ture of his own State. Finally, in 1831, he succeeded in 
 getting the Legislature of Massachusetts to pass an act 
 incorporating the " American Society for Encouraging the 
 Settlement of the Oregon Territory^'''' and a large number 
 of persons became members. But the fur companies, 
 American as well as British, steadily discouraged all efforts 
 which were directed towards the settlement of the cov- 
 eted territory, so that nothing was accomplished by the 
 above named society ; and at length, in 1832, Kelly sent 
 out two young men only, for the country west of the 
 
■nil) HUDSON 8 BAY COMPANY DKNOl'NCKI). 
 
 209 
 
 Rdckv Mountains. On arriving at Fort Vancouver tlioy 
 IouikI the same diiriculties in tlieir way which ])r('ventod 
 Wyeth and IJonncvilie from succeedhig. In trulli, tiieir 
 caso was worse, for there was nothing for them to (h), and 
 if tliore had been, they would not have be(Mi permitted 
 tu do it, except in the service of the Hudson's Hay Com- 
 pany. For the first winter, one of them, a Mr. Ball, was 
 employed as teacher of the half-breed childrcMi at the 
 Fort. The following spring, Ball and his companion, 
 Tibbits, began farming. This, however^ proving unprofit- 
 able Ijiisiness in a country where there was no market, 
 Hall I'eturncd to the States, and Tibbits remained to teach 
 the school at Fort Vancouver. In the meantime, Kelly 
 was trying to organize an expedition to proceed by sea. 
 This also failed to be successful, through the inaction of 
 the general government and the antagonism of the fur 
 ooiiipiinios. Persisting in his plan of colonizing Oregon 
 and ()})oning commerce on the west coast, Kelly went to 
 Mexico and endeavored to open a trade between that coun- 
 try and Ore^j^on. But the Mexican revenue officers re- 
 morsolossly robbed him of a large share of the goods he 
 was taking to Oregon, so that by the time he arrived at 
 Fort Vancouver there was little or nothing left of his 
 stock in trade, while he was broken down in health and 
 spirits. Like Wyeth, he returned home without having 
 been able to realize any one of his many schemes of 
 profit. . •- ' .■■ . . ■-..- •••-■• - •;-(* 
 
 Such was the experience of all who in that early day 
 attempted to oppose themselves to the Hudson's Bay 
 Company. For this reason all these adventurers exe- 
 crated its influence, and denounced everything British. 
 The truth was, however, that the case would have been 
 just the same had it been an American company which 
 occupied the Columbia River, so far as their fortunes 
 
 ^H 
 
 
 
 Ki 
 
270 
 
 FIRHT MISSlOXAIUKft TO TIIK WALLAMET. 
 
 were {'()iic(!rno{l. Any conipimy, to succeed in that far 
 of!* wiMernesH eoiuitry, must have done just us the Vav. 
 lisli conipanv did do. To enter into competition anions 
 the Indians was to ruin the trade for all concerned, to in- 
 duce misunderstandings with the savage.-*, and finally to 
 devastate, instead of settling up, the country. This the 
 Hudson's Bay Company understood, and they would 
 rather lose money by trying to keep other traders out, 
 than to make it for a little while by competing with 
 them. • 
 
 But "man proposes and God disposes." In 1834, the 
 Methodist Episcopal Board of Missions sent out fouv mis- 
 sionaries to labor among the liidians These were two 
 preachers, the Rev. Messrs. Jason and Daniel Lee, aud 
 two lay members, Cyrus Shepard and P. L. Edwards. 
 These gentlemen were liberally furnished with all the 
 necessaries and comforts of life by the Board, in addition 
 to which they received the kindest attentions and consid- 
 eration from the ofBcers of the Hudson's Bay Company at 
 Vancouver. Their vessel, the May Dacre, Captain Lam- 
 bert, had arrived safely in the river with the mission 
 goods. The gentlemen at Vancouver encouraged their 
 enterprise, and advised them to settle in the Wallamet 
 valley, the most fertile tract of country west of the Rocky 
 Mountains. Being missionaries, nothing was to be feared 
 from them in the way of trade. The Wallamet valley 
 was a good country for the mission — at the same time it 
 was south of the Columbia River. This latter considera- 
 tion was not an unimportant one with the Hudson's B?y 
 Company, it being understood among those in the confi- 
 dence of the British government, that in case the Oregon 
 territory had to be divided with the United States, the 
 Columbia River would probably be made the northern 
 boundary of the American possesrio v . The missionaries 
 
THE POLITICAL HISTOUY OF ORKOON. 
 
 271 
 
 Wm^f content to settle south of the Cohiinbia, all "went 
 
 wc 
 
 11. 
 
 Tlioso tliroo points were what the Tludson's Buy Cnvn- 
 pany must insist upon, so far as, under the terms of the 
 trcjity, tiu.'y coukl do : first, that the Americans occupy- 
 in"' the country jointly with them, sliould not attempt to 
 triuliMvitli the Indians; secoiullj,, hat they should con- 
 lino tlnnuselves to agricultural puj'. nits and missioiuiry 
 labor; and tliirdly, that the set tiers should keep to the 
 sduthside of the Columbia. 2'.ot that the servants of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company conlined themselves to the north 
 side of this probable boundary ; f»n the contrary, the re- 
 tired servants of that company had begun to settle in the 
 Wallamet valley in 1831. 
 
 We have said that the political history of Oregon began 
 near the close of the last century. As early as the winter 
 of 1820-21, the first proposition was made in Congress 
 for the occupation and settlement of the Columbia River. 
 
 "It* was made by Dr. Floyd, a representative from Virj^inia, a man of 
 ability, and stronf^ly imbued with western feelings, from a long residence in 
 iuntiicky. It refjiiiri'd both energy and courage to embr.ace a subj'>ct which 
 Hcmcd lii(('iy to bring more riilicule than credit to its advm'atc. lie took up 
 till' idi'ii iiom s(tni(! essays of Mr. Benton's, which had been pul)lished the year 
 |ii('vi()ii.<. lie had also made the acquaintance of Mr. Russell Farnham and 
 Mr. Rnmscy Crooks, who had been in the emjiloj-mct of Astor in founrling 
 tlio colony at Astoria. lie resolved to bring forward the question of occupa- 
 tion, and did so. He moved for a select committee to consider and report upon 
 till' siilywt. 'llie conunittee was granted by the House, more thrtugh courtesy 
 to a respected niembor, than with any view to business results. It was a com- 
 mittee of three, himself chairman ai-cording to a parliamentary rule, and 
 Tliomas Metcalf of Kentucky, and Thomas V. Sweat-ingen of Virginia, both, 
 like iiiniself, ardent men, and strong in wctern feeling Tliey reported a bill 
 within six days after the committee was ruls. 1, " to authorize the occupation 
 of the Columbia River, and to regtilate trade and intercourse with the Indian 
 trihes thereon." In their report they represented the advantages of the fur 
 trade, the Asiatic trade, and the preservation of our own territory. Nothing 
 
 * From Benton's Thirty Years in Congress. 
 
 18 
 
 ; 51 
 
 ■t liK'ttil 
 
 "li 
 
 1 i 
 
 
27: 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM 
 
 " THIRTY YEARS IN CONGRESS." 
 
 furtluT was done at that session, but enough had been said to awaken public 
 attention, and the facts set forth in the report made a lodgement in the public 
 mind." 
 
 At a subsequent session, both Floyd and Benton pur- 
 sued the subject with ardor, and the latter dwelt strongly 
 on the danger of a contest with Great Britain, to whom 
 had been granted joint occupancy, and who had already 
 taken possession ; and reminded the Government " that a 
 vigorous etFort of policy, and perhaps of arms, might be 
 necessary to break her hold." Unauthorized or individual 
 occupation was intimated as a consequence of government 
 neglect, and what has since taken place was foreshadowed 
 in the following sentence : "Mere adventurers may enter 
 upon it, as ^neus entered upon the Tiber, and as our 
 forafathers came upon the Potomac, the Delaware, and 
 the Hudson, and renew the phenomenon of individuals 
 laying the foundations of future empire." He predicted 
 the intercourse with China and Japan which has since fol- 
 lowed, and prophesied that the overflowing population of 
 those countries would seek our Pacific shores, 
 
 Mr. Benton said, when the subject of the joint occupa- 
 tion treaty was before the House in 1825 : — 
 
 " The claim of Great Britain is nothing but a naked pretension, founded on 
 the double prospect of benefitting herself and injuring the United States. The 
 fur-trader. Sir Alexander McKenzie, is at the bottom of this policy. Failiug 
 in his attempt to explore the Columbia River in 1 793, he nevertheless urged 
 upfHi the British government the advantages of taking it to herself, and of ex- 
 pelling the Americans from the whole region west of the Rocky Mountains. 
 lie recommended that the Hudson's Bay and Northwest companies should be 
 united, and they have been united. He jjroposed to extend the for trade to 
 the Pacific Ocean, and it has been so extended. He proposed that a chain of 
 trading posts should be formed through the continent, from sea to sea, and it 
 has been formed. He recommended that no boundary line should be formed 
 which did not give the Columbia River to the British, and the British Min- try 
 declare that none other shall be formed. He proposed to obtain the command 
 of the fur trade from latitude 45° North, and they have it, even to the Mandan 
 
BEXTOX ON THE OHEGON CLAIMS. 
 
 273 
 
 \illa'i<'S anJ tli^ nein;l»borhoo(l V)f Council RliifTs. He rccommendod the expul- 
 sion of ilu' Anu'rican tratlcrs from tlu- whole region west of the lloeky ^loun- 
 taiiis. anil tlK-y are expelled from it." 
 
 Ill addition to the influence of the fur companies, polit- 
 ical considerations also governed Great Britain in acquiring 
 possession of the Northwest coast, and the command of 
 the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 In a Pacific Railroad speech which Mr. Benton made at 
 Brunswick, Mo., thirty years later, there occurs this para- 
 uTii})li: 
 
 "I oaup;ht the idea (of a Paoific Railroad) fi-om Mr. Jefferson, who in his 
 nu'ssajie to Congress proposing the expedition of Lewis and Clarke, jjresented 
 the commercial communication as the leading object, and the one which gave 
 (oiiiri'ss the Constitutional jurisdiction in the case; and the extension of geo- 
 .'r.ilihical science as the incident to tiie pursuit of that main object. That was 
 bi't'ore we accjuired Oregon, or set up any claim to territory on the Pacific 
 Ocuan." . ■■■.,' 
 
 
 From these extracts it will appear that while the fur 
 Coinpaiiies were contending for the occupation of the 
 Oregon territory, and had finally parceled it off as we have 
 already seen, — the American companies keeping in and 
 abuut the Rocky Mountains, and the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany excluding them from the country west of the Blue 
 -Mountains, while that which laid between had been con- 
 tested ground, — two governments were equally active and 
 studious in their efforts to substantiate their claims. 
 
 But it was not, after all, either the fur companies or 
 tbe general government which directed the entering 
 wedge in the settlement of the much-tc:lked-of claims. 
 It was the missionary settlements which effected this. 
 
 There was nothing in the character of the Christian 
 Missionary's labor which the Hudson's Bay Company could 
 possibly object to without a palpable violation of the 
 
 
 im 
 
 ; t 
 
 I: 
 
274 
 
 mi. JOHN MCLAUGHLIN. 
 
 THE MISSIOXAKT 
 WEDGE. 
 
 Convention of 1818. Therefore, al- 
 though the Methodist mission in the 
 Wulkiniet Yalley received a large ac- 
 cession to its numbers in 1837, they 
 were as kindly welcomed as had been 
 those of 1834 ; and also those Pres- 
 byterian missionaries of 1836, who had 
 settled in the "upper country." 
 
 Not an immigrant entered Oregon 
 in that day Avho did not proceed at 
 once to Vancouver: nor was there 
 one, in any way deserving, who did 
 not meet with the most liberal and 
 hospitable treatment. Neither was this hospitality a tri- 
 fling benefit ; to the weary traveler just arrived from a 
 long and most fatiguing journey, it was extremely wel- 
 come and refreshinp,-. At Vancouver was the only society. 
 and the only luxurious living to be enjoyed on the whole 
 Northwest coast. 
 
 At the head of the first was Dr. John McLaughlin, al- 
 ready mentioned as the Chief Factor, and Deputy Gov- 
 ernor of the Hudson's Ba}' Company in Oregon, and all the 
 Northwest. He was of Scotch origin, and Canadian birth. 
 a gentleman bred, with a ciiaracter of the highest integ- 
 rity, to which were united justice and humanity. His po- 
 sition as head of the Hudson's Bny Company's affairs, was 
 no enviable one during that period of Oregon history 
 which followed the advent of Americans in the Wallamet 
 . Valley. Himself a British subject, and a representative 
 of that powerful corporation which bent the British Gov- 
 ernment to its will, he was bound to execute its commands 
 when they did not conflict too strongly with his conscious- 
 ness of right and justice. And while he was williug and 
 
^•i«i^^»np 
 
 r 
 
 HOSPITALITIES OP FORT VANCOUVER. 
 
 275 
 
 anxious to do his duty towards the company he served, 
 circumstances arose, and occasions grew out of those cir- 
 cumstances which tried his k)yalty, integrity, and humanity, 
 to tlic utmost. One course, however, he steadily pursued, 
 wliicli was that of a beneficent friend toward all who de- 
 served his friendship, and many who did not, in all private 
 and personal matters. Hence of the many who went to 
 Vancouver, all were kindly re'ceived ; and every man of 
 any intelligence or position among the Americans was 
 most hospitably treated, not only by himself but by all the 
 factors, traders, and clerks of the establishment. It often 
 happened in the early days of Oregon that sonif of the 
 most prominent Americans were not decently clad, through 
 tlieir inability to procure clothing suitable to their posi- 
 tion. But the seat of honor at the Chief Factor's table 
 was reserved with as much punctiliousness for these rag- 
 ged pioneers, as if thoy had come clad in beautiful rai- 
 ment. Nor were finger bowls and napkins withh(3ld from 
 the use of soiled and blackened pioneer fingers. Wine, 
 and good cheer, and cultivated conversation, were freely 
 offered and enjoyed. There was nothing in the line of his 
 duty which prevented Dr. McLaughlin from exercising 
 private hospitality and gentlemanly courtesy toward the 
 Americans. A man of religious feeling himself, he 
 fipectcd the motive which was presumed to actuate the 
 missionaries. To be sure, he had been educated in the 
 Ivoman Catholic doctrines ; but yet he was not unwilling 
 that the Protestants should entertain and disseminate 
 their own religious views. As a representative of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company he had one duty to execute : as a 
 Christian gentleman, another. That these separate dutie=i 
 sometimes conflicted will appc " ^"^ the course of this nar- 
 rative. So far, however, as eucouragiug the missionaries 
 
276 
 
 EARLY SETTLERS IN THE WALLAMET VALLEY. 
 
 ill their undertakings was concerned, he did not hold then 
 to be conflicting ; not, at all events, until they undeceived 
 him, by entering upon secular enterprises. 
 
 As has been stated, the Methodist mission settlement wi s 
 reinforced in 1837, by the arrival of about twenty persons, 
 among whom were several ladies, and a few children. 
 These, like those preceding them, were first entertained at 
 Fort Vancouver before proceeding to the mission, which 
 was between fifty and sixty miles up the Wallamet, in the 
 heart of that delightful valley. These persons came bv a 
 sailing vessel around Cape Horn, bringing with them sup- 
 plies for the mission. ^[fef.7 
 
 In the two following years there were about a dozen 
 missionary arrivals overland, all of whom tarried a short 
 time at the American Company's rendezvous, as before re 
 lated. These were some of them designed for the upper 
 country, but most of them soon settled in the Wallamet 
 valley. 
 
 Durhig these years, between 1834 and 1840, there had 
 drifted into the valley various persons from California, the 
 Rocky Mountains, and from the vessels which sometimes 
 appeared in the Columbia ; until at the time when Newell 
 and Meek resolved to quit the mountains, the American 
 settlers numbered nearly one hundred, men, women, ....J 
 children. Of these, about thirty belonged to the missions; 
 tie remainder were mountain-men, sailors, and adventur- 
 ers. The mountain-men, most of them, had native wives. 
 Besides the Americans there were sixty Canadian French- 
 men, who had been retired upon farms by the Hudson's 
 Bay Company ; and who would probably have occupied 
 these farms so long as the II, B. Company should have 
 continued to do business in Oregon, 
 
 With the American mountain-men it was, however, difior- 
 ent. It was the fact of the mission havina: been estab- 
 
IMPORTATION OP CATTLE. 
 
 277 
 
 lisliecl there, with all the means and appliances of a settle- 
 ment iiide})enclent of the H. B. Company, which induced 
 them to remain and settle also upon farms. They looked 
 to the Mission to become to them, what Fort Vancouver 
 ^vns to the Canadians, a supply station ; an expectation 
 wliic'h was only half fulfilled, as will be seen hereafter. 
 
 Tlie Missionaries themselves had been compelled to de- 
 pond upon Fort Vancouver for many things, and among 
 otlicrs for cattle, and milch cows. It was a matter of seri- 
 ous complaint among the American settlers that the H. B. 
 Company would sell none of their stock. Lend it they 
 ■ffould ; sell it they would not. This effort on the part of 
 the company to retain a monopoly in so important an ele- 
 ment of civilized comfort as oxen, beef-cattle, and milch 
 cows, created much ill feeling for a time, as it cramped 
 the means of productive labor excessively. 
 
 But in 1837 there appeared in the Columbia river the 
 U. S. Brig Lonof^ Captain Slocum, on an errand, of 
 observation. Upon learning from the settlers that no 
 cattle could be procured in Oregon, Captain Slocum 
 encouraged a plan which was then on foot, of send- 
 ing to California for a supply of Spanish stock. To 
 further this enterprise he contributed fifteen dollars, and 
 oil'ov^d a free passage to such persons as wished to go to 
 Cali!uinia on this errand. The way being thus opened, a 
 meeting of the settlers was held, and shares taken in what 
 was called the "California Cattle Company." Whatever 
 may have been the feelings of the H. B. Company, they 
 olTered no direct opposition : on the contrary, Dr. Mc 
 Laughlin took several shares in the Cattle Company, on 
 his own account. The expedition was headed by Mr. P. L. 
 Kdwards of the Methodist mission, and Mr. Ewing Young 
 of the American settlement. Young was of the same 
 class as the mountain-men, and had in fact been a trader 
 
 
 viHi' 
 
 I 
 
 •■a 
 
 
278 
 
 DISTRIBUTION OV SETTLERS. 
 
 lit ' 
 
 at Taos in New Mexico ; after which lie had led a hniitin? 
 and trapping party through California; and had accompa- 
 nied Kelly in his journey to Oregon in 18i}5. He was 
 just the man to conduct an expedition such as this one; 
 ; though the Mission thought it necessary to send ^Ir. Ed- 
 wards along to look out for the funds of the company. 
 The expedition set sail in January, and returned by land 
 in the autumn, with several hundred head of cattle ; hav- 
 ing met wiuh some loss of stock, by an attack from the 
 Rogue River Indians, or Shastas, — the same tribe who at- 
 tacked Smith's party in 1829. The cattle were then 
 divided up among the settlers according to the shares pre- 
 viously taken ; those who went to California receiving pay 
 for their services out of the herd. This importation of 
 cattle placed the American colony, for such it now really 
 was, on a more independent footing, besides furnishing a 
 means for the rapid acquisition of wealth. 
 
 The distribution of settlers was as follows : the mission 
 proper, about fifty-two miles above the mouth of the 
 Wallamet ; the Canadian settlement ten or twelve miles 
 below the mission, and Wallamet Falls, or as it afterwards 
 was called, Oregon City. At this latter place Dr. McLaugh- 
 lin, as early as 1829, had begun the ereotion of a mill, and 
 had continued to make improvements from time to time, 
 up to 1840, when some members of the Mission applied 
 to him for permission to erect a building for mission pur- 
 poses upon the land claimed and improved by the Doctor. 
 This request was granted, together with another for the 
 use of some timbers already squared for building, which 
 had been * itended for the mill. At the same time that 
 Dr. McLav lilin made these generous concessions to the 
 mission gentlemen, he notified them that he intended to 
 claim the land already improved by him, so soon as the 
 boundary line was drawn by a proper survey. 
 
WESTWAllD ho! — TUE FIRST WAGON KOAD. 
 
 279 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 When it was settled that Newell and Meek were to ero 
 to the Wallamet, they lost no time in dallying, but packed 
 the wagons with whatever they possessed in the way of 
 worldly goods, topped them with their Nez Perce wives 
 and half-breed children, and started for "Walla- Walla, ac- 
 companied by Craig, another mountain-ma'i, and either 
 followed or accompanied by several others. Meek drove 
 a five-in-hand team of four horses and one mule. Nicho- 
 kis drove the other team of four horses, and Newell, who 
 owned the train, was mounted as leader. 
 
 The journey was no easy one, extending as it did over 
 immense plains of lava, round impassable canyons, over 
 rapid unbridged rivers, and over mountains hitherto be- 
 lieved to be only passable for pack trains. TJie honor 
 which has heretofore been accorded to the Presbyterian 
 missionaries solely, of opening a wagon road from the 
 Piocky Mountains to the Columbia River, should in justice 
 be divided with these two mountaineers, who accomplished 
 the most difficult part of this difficult journey. 
 
 Arrived at Fort Boise, a post of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany, the little caravan stopped for a few days to rest and 
 recruit their animals. With the usual courtesy of that 
 Comjxany, Mr. Payette, the trader in charge, offijred New- 
 ell quarters in the fort, as leader of his party. To Meek 
 and Craig who were encamped outside, be sent a piece of 
 sturgeon with his compliments, which our incipient Ore- 
 
 ,1 
 
 i 
 f 
 
 ,5 
 
 I;- 
 i ■ 
 
 ' ^ liiv 
 
 ' T 
 
 •T'TBCT; 
 
 " ■: '". T 
 
 '''Hfe 
 
 
 '" 19!^ 
 
 1 
 i , 
 
 'ti 
 
jnff 
 
 280 
 
 WAIILATPU IIELKN MAR. 
 
 gonians sent back again -vvith their compliments. No 
 Hudson's Bay distinctions of rank for them ! No, indeed! 
 The moment tliat an American commenced to think of 
 himself as a settler on the most remote corner of Ameri- 
 can soil, that moment, as if by instinct, he began to defend 
 and support his republicanism. 
 
 After a few days' rest, the party went on, encountcriii<r, 
 as might be expected, much dilliculty and toil, but arriviiii: 
 safely after a reasonable time at the Columbia River, at 
 the junction of the Umatilla. Here the wagons and stock 
 were crossed over, and the party proceeded directly to 
 Di". Whitman's mission at Waiilatpu. Dr. Whitman gave 
 them a friendly reception ; killing for them, if not the fat- 
 ted calf, the fattest hog he had ; telling Meek at the same 
 time that "fat pork was good for preachers," referring to 
 Meek's missionary labors among the Nez Perccs. 
 
 During the three vears since the commencement of the 
 mission at Waiilatpu considerable advancement had been 
 made in the progress of civilization among the Cayuses. 
 Quite a number of Indian children were domesticated with 
 Mrs. Whitman, who were rapidly acquiring a knowledge 
 of housekeeping, sewing, reading, and writing, and farm 
 labor. With Mrs. Wliitman, for whom M( ek still enter- 
 tained great admiration and respect, he resolved to leave 
 his little girl, Helen Mar ; the fruit of his connexion with 
 the Nez Perce Avoman who persisted in abandoning him in 
 the mountains, as already related. Having thus made 
 provision for the proper instruction of his daughter, and 
 conferred with the Doctor on the condition of the Ameri- 
 can settlers in Oregon — the Doctor being an ardent 
 American — Meek and his associates started once more for 
 the Wallamet. 
 
 At Walla- Walla Newell decided to leave the wagons, 
 the weather having become so rainy and disagreeable as 
 
 -.Jil': 
 
^^^^m 
 
 THE DALLES MISSION — INDIAN PUAYKKS. 
 
 281 
 
 to make it doubtful about fretting tli(nii over the Casciiilo 
 Mouiitiiins tliat fall. Accordingly the goods wore traus- 
 Ibrrc'd to pack-horses for tlio remainder of the journey. 
 Ill tlio following year, however, one of the Wiigons was 
 brougiit down by Newell, and taken to the plains on the 
 Tiialiitiii River, being the first vehicle of the kind in the 
 Wallainet Valley. 
 
 On arriving at the Dalles of the Columbia, our moun- 
 tain inon found that a mission had been established at that 
 place for the conversion of th.(jse inconscionable thieves, 
 tlie Wish-ram Indians, renowned in Indian history for their 
 acquisitiveness. This mission was under the charge of 
 Daniel Lee and a Mr. Perkins, and was an oil'shoot of the 
 Methodist Mission in the \Vallamet Val' -y. These gentle- 
 men having found the benighted condition of the Indians 
 to exceed their powers of enliglitment in any ordinary 
 way, were having recourse to extraordinary efforts, and 
 were carrying on what is commonly termed a revival^' 
 though what piety there was in the hearts of these savages 
 to be revived, it would be difficult to determine. How- 
 over, they doubtless hoped so to wrestle with God them- 
 selves, as to compel a blessing upon their labors. 
 
 The Indians indeed were not averse to prayer. They 
 could pray Avillingly and sincerely enough when they could 
 hope for a speedy and actual material answer to their 
 prayers. And it was for that, and that only, that they 
 importuned the Christian's God. Finding that their 
 prayers were not answered according to their desire, it at 
 length became difficult to persuade them to pray at all. 
 Sometimes, it is true, they succeeded in deluding the mis- 
 sionaries with the belief that they were really converted, 
 for a time. One of these most hopeful converts at the 
 Dalles mission, being in want of a shirt and capote, volun- 
 teered to " pray for a whole year," if Mr. Lee would fur- 
 nish him with these truly desirable articles. 
 
 lUvJ 
 
 .iij 
 
 ! : 
 
mmm 
 
 282 
 
 THE IMPiOUH CANADIAN. 
 
 It is no wonder that with sudi h()j)elo.ss material to work 
 upon the Dalles niissionarie.s withdrew from them a portion 
 of their zeal, and bestowed it, where it was quite; as much 
 needed, upon any "stray mountain-man" wlio ehancedlo 
 be entertained "within their j^ates." Newell's purtv, 
 among others, received the well-meant, but not always 
 well-received or ai)preciated attentions of these gentlemen. 
 The American mountaineer was not likely to be suddenly 
 surprised into praying in earnest; and he generally hml 
 too much real reverence to be found making a jest in the 
 form of a mocking prayer. 
 
 Not so scrupulous, however, was Jandrcau, a lively 
 French Canadian, w:io was traveling in company with the 
 Americans. On being repeatedly importuned to prav, 
 with that tireless zeal which distinguishes the Metlicdist 
 preacher above all others, Jandrcau appeared suddenly to 
 be smitten with a consciousness of his guilt, and kneeling 
 in the midst of the 'meeting,' began with clasped hands 
 and upturned eyes to pour forth a perfect torrent of words. 
 With wonderful dramatic power he appeared to confess, 
 to supplicate, to agonize, in idiomatic French. His tears 
 and ejaculations touched the hearts of the missionaries, 
 and filled them with gladness. They too ejaculated and 
 wept, with frequently uttered "Amens" and "hallelujahs," 
 until the scene became highly dramatic and exciting. In 
 the midst of this grand tableau, when the enthusiasm was 
 at its height, Jandrcau suddenly ceased and rose to his feet, 
 while an irrepressible outburst of laughter from his asso- 
 ciates aroused the astonished missionaries to a partial cora- 
 prehension of the fact that they had been made the subjects 
 of a practical joke, though they never knew to exactly 
 how great an extent. '• , 
 
 The mischievous Frenchman had only recited with tndy 
 artistic power, and with such variations as the situation 
 
-r,^ 
 
 JANDUKAU CALLED TO AN ACCOUNT. 
 
 283 
 
 oif-rrested, one of the most woiKlorful aiitl cflcctive talcs 
 from tliL' Arahinn Ni(jhtH Eidertainmcni, with which lie 
 was wont to dchght and auiuso his comrades beside the 
 wiiitor c!iiiip-rirc! 
 
 J)iit .liuuh'oau was called to account when ho arrived at 
 Vancouver. Dr. McLan<^hlin had heard the story from 
 poiiio of the party, and resolved to punish the man's irrev- 
 erence, at tno same time that he gave himself a bit of 
 aninsemcnt. Sending for the Rev. Father lUanchet, who 
 was thou resident at Vancouver, he informed him of the 
 eircunistance, and together they arranged Jandreau's pun- 
 ishment, lie was ordered to appear in their united pres- 
 ence, and make a true statement of the aflair. Jandreau 
 conlbssud that he had done what he was .iccused of do- 
 ing — made a mock of prayer, and told a tale instead of 
 oU'ering a supplication. He was then ordered by the Rev. 
 Father to rehearse the scene exactly as it occurred, in or- 
 der that he might judge of the amount of his guilt, and 
 apportion him his punishment. 
 
 Trembling and abashed, poor Jandrc fell upon his 
 knees and began the recital with much trepidation. But 
 as he proceeded he warmed with the subject, his dramatic 
 instinct asserted itself, tears streamed, and voice and eyes 
 snpplicated, until this second representation threatened to 
 outdo the first. With outward gravity and iuAvard mirth 
 bis two solemn judges listened to the close, and when Jan- 
 dreau rose quite exhausted from his knees. Father Blan- 
 chet hastily dismissed him with an admonition and a 
 h'glit })cnance. As the door of Dr. McLaughlin's office 
 closed behind him, not only the Doctor, but Father Blan- 
 chet indulged in a burst of long restrained laughter at 
 the comical absurdities of this impious Frenchman. mr Ai 
 
 To return to our immigrants. On leaving the Dalles 
 they proceeded on down the south side of the river as far 
 
 ( ¥. .A 
 
 I • 
 
 i 
 
284 
 
 DOWN- THE COLUMHTA. 
 
 as |)rac'ti('itl)lo, or opjxjsito to iho Wind Mountain. At tliLs 
 point tlu! IndiaiiH assisted to cross tlioni over to the north 
 side, when tliey af^ain nnide tiieir way ah)ng the river as 
 far as Tea J^rairia above Vancouver. The weatlicr wiia 
 execrable, with a pouring rain, and sky of dismal gray; 
 December being already far advanced. Our travelers 
 were not in the best of humors: indeed a saint-like amia- 
 bility is s(>ldom found in conjunction with rain, mud, fa- 
 tigue, and an empty stomach. Some ill-natured susi)icions 
 were uttered to the ed'ect that the Indians who were assist- 
 ing to cross the party at this point, had stolen some ropes 
 that were missing. 
 
 Upon this dishonorable insinuation the Indian heart was 
 fired, and a light became imminent. This undesirable cli- 
 max to emigrant woes was however averted by an attack 
 upon the indignant natives with firebrands, when they 
 })rudently retired, leaving the travelers to pursue their 
 way in peace. It was on Sunday that the weary, dirty, 
 hungiy little procession arrived at a place on the Walla- 
 met River where the present town of Milwaukie is situa- 
 ted, and found here two missionaries, the Rev. Messrs. 
 Waller and Beers, who were preaching to the Indians. 
 
 Meek immediately applied to Mr. Waller for some pro- 
 visions, and received for answer that it was "Sunday." 
 Mr. Waller, however, on being assured that it was no more 
 agreeable starving on Sunday than a week-day, finally al- 
 lowed the immigrants to have a peck of small potatoes, 
 But as a party of several persons could not long subsist on 
 so short allowance, and as there did not seem to be any 
 encouragement to expect more from the missionaries, there 
 was no course left to be pursued but to make an appeal to 
 Fori Vancouver. 
 
 To Fort Vancouver then, Newell went the next day, 
 and returned on the following one with some dried sal- 
 
 1! 
 
mim^mm 
 
 DEl'KNDEXUE ON FOUT VArCOUVEIl. 
 
 285 
 
 moil, toa, sugar, and sea-broafcl. Tt was not (luite wliat tlio 
 iiioiiiilaiii-nu'ii could luivu wishod, this dcpundeiico on the 
 Hiidsoir.s Bay Company for iood, and did not ([uito af^^roe 
 witlnvliat tiicy iiad said wlicn thoir hearts wr-ro big in the 
 iiiounlaiiis. IJcin^ patriollv; on a full stomach is easy com- 
 pared to being the same thing on an empty one; a truth 
 which became more and more apparent as tlie wint(.'r pro- 
 gressed, and the new settlers found that if they would eat 
 they must ask food of some person or persons outside of 
 the iMi^thodist Mission. And outside of that tlun'c was in 
 all the country only the Hudson's Bay Company, and a 
 lew mountain-men like themselves, who had brought noth- 
 ing into the country, and could get nothing out of it at 
 pres(,'iit. 
 
 There was but short time in which to consider what 
 was to be done. Newell and Meek went to Wallamet 
 Falls, the day after Newell's return from Vancouver, and 
 there met an old comrade. Doughty, who was looking for 
 a place to locate. The three made their camp together 
 on the west side of the river, on a hill overlooking the 
 Falls. While in camp they were joined by two other 
 Rocky Mountain men, Wilkins and Ebbarts, who were also 
 looking for a place to settle in. There were now six of 
 the Rocky Mountain men together ; and they resolved to 
 push cut into the plains to the west of them, and see what 
 could be done in tho matter of selecting homes. 
 
 As for our hero, we fear we cannot say much of him 
 here which would serve to render him heroic in criticising 
 Yankee eyes. He was a mountain-man, and that only. 
 He had neither book learning, nor a trade, nor any knoAvl- 
 edge of the simplest aifairs apper* '-^ing to the ordinary 
 ways of getting a living. He h;„J. only his strong hands, 
 and a heart naturally stout and light. • , _;/ 
 
 His friend Newell had the advantage of him in several 
 
 
 li 
 
 *9 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 \ J 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 .;>■:■ 
 
 1::.,, 
 
 
286 
 
 THE TUALATIN PLAINS. 
 
 particulars. IIg had rather more book-knowledge, more 
 business experience, and also more means. With thes^e 
 advantages he became a sort of "Booshway" among his 
 old comrades, who consented to follow his lead in the im- 
 jDortant movement about to be made, and settle in the 
 Tualatin Plains should he decide to do so. 
 
 Accordingly camp was raised, and the party proceeded 
 to the Plains, where they arrived on Christmas, and went 
 into camp again. The hardships of mountain life were 
 light compared to the hardships of this winter. For in 
 the mountains, when the individual's resources were ex- 
 hausted, there was always the Company to go to, which 
 was practically inexhaustible. Should it be necessary, the 
 Company was always willing to become the creditor of a 
 good mountain-man. And the debtor gave himself no 
 uneasiness, because he knew that if he lived he could dis- 
 charge his indebtedness. But everything was different 
 now. There was no way of paying debts, even if there 
 had been a company willing to give them credit, which 
 there was not, at least among Americans. Hard times 
 they had seen in the mountains ; harder times they were 
 likely to see in the valley ; indeed were already experi- 
 
 encing. 
 
 Instead of fat buffalo meat, antelojie, and mountain 
 mutton, which made the plenty of a camp on Powder 
 River, our carniverous hunters were reduced to eating 
 daily a little boiled wheat. In this extremity. Meek went 
 on aii expedition of discovery aci .lis the Lighlauds that 
 border the Lower Wallamet, and found on Wappatoo 
 (now Sauvis) Island, a Mr. and Mrs. Baldra living, ^rho 
 were in the service of the Hudson's Bay Company., and 
 drew rations from them. With great kindness they 
 divided the provisions on hand, furnishing him with dried 
 salmon and sea-bread, to which he added ducks and swans 
 
A DISAGUEEABLE WINTER. 
 
 287 
 
 procured from the Indians. Poor and scanty as -was the 
 supi>ly t^^^^^ obtained, it was, after boiled wlieat, compara- 
 tive luxury while it lasted. 
 
 1841. The winter proved a very disagreeable one. 
 Considerable snow fell early, and went oft" with heavy 
 rains, flooding the whole country. The little camp on 
 the Tualatin Plains had no defence from the weather bet- 
 ter than Indian lodges, and one small cabin built by 
 Donglity on a furmer visit to the Plains ; for Doughty had 
 been one of the first of the mountain-men to come to the 
 Wallamet on the breaking up of the fur companies. In- 
 dian lodges, or no lodges at all, were what the men were 
 used to ; but in the dryer climate of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains it had not seemed such a miserable life, as it now 
 did, where, for months together, the ground was saturated 
 with I'ain, while the air was constantly charged with 
 vapor. ■.'■• 
 
 As for going anywhere, or doing anything, either were 
 inrilly impossible. No roads, the streams all swollen and 
 
 en 
 
 out of banks, the rains incessant, there was nothing for 
 them but to remain in camp and wait for the return of 
 spring. When at last the rainy season was over, and the 
 sun shini'jg once more, most of the mountain-men in the 
 Tualatin Plains camp took land-claims and set to work 
 improving them. Of those who began farming that 
 spring, were Newell, Doughty, Wilkins, and Walker. 
 These obtained seed-wheat from the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany, also such farming implements as they must have, 
 iiiid even oxen to draw the plow through the strong 
 prairie sod. The wheat was to be returned to the com- 
 pany — the cattle also ; and the farming implements paid 
 tor wlicnever the debtor became able. This was certainly 
 hl)oral conduct on the part of a company generally un- 
 derstood to be opposed to American settlement. 
 19 
 
288 
 
 WEALTH OF THE METHODlbT MlCJSlON. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 We find, according to tlieir own account, that about 
 1838-9, " Jason Lee was lecturing in New England, on 
 the Oregon Missions, and creating considerable zeal for 
 the cause. As the result of his labors before the Board 
 and elsewhere, $40,000 were collected for missionary pur- 
 poses, an'1 thirty-six additional assistants, viz: five mis- 
 sionaries, one physician, six mechanics, four farmers, one 
 steward, four fem. .e teachers, with millers and others, 
 were sent out to strengthen the mission, besides a saw 
 mill, grist mill, agricultural and mechanical tools. This 
 last reinforcement arrived in 1840, some months earlier 
 than the mountain-men. A new mission was projected 
 about ten miles above the old one, on the present site of 
 Salem, the capital of Oregon. 
 
 Here the mills were to be erected, a new school build- 
 ing put up, and other substantial improvements carried 
 on. There was no poverty among the members of the 
 mission; on the contrary, according to Commodore Wilkes, 
 there was wastefulness and reprehensible neglect of the 
 agricultural and mechanical tools so generously furnished 
 by the Board at home, who believed the mission to be 
 doing a good work. So far, however, from benefitting 
 the Indians, they were an actual injury to them. The 
 sudden and absolute change of habits which the Indian 
 students were compelled to make did not agree with 
 them. The first oreaking up of the ground for making 
 
•I'M 
 
 -WHAT THE MISSION HOARD DID FOR OREGON. 
 
 289 
 
 farms caused malaria, and indncod much sickness amoiic^ 
 them. Many had died, and many others had gone back 
 to tlicir former habits. Much vice and disease also pre- 
 vailed among the natives, which had been introduced by 
 deporting sailors and othc/ profligate adventurers. The 
 IiidiiUis coidd not be made to comprehend the spiritual 
 meaning of religion, and seeing among the whites thjm- 
 selvcs so frequent violations of what was represented to 
 he their belief, they ceased to regard their teachings, 
 until their moral condition became worse in their half- 
 civilized condition than it had been in their savage state. 
 The mission school had degenerated to such a mere pre- 
 tense of a school that in 1841, when Wilkes visited the 
 mission, he was not permitted to see it. 
 
 Hence, at the time when other settlers began to gather 
 into Oregon, the Methodist Mission was such by courtesy 
 only, and not in fact ; and of this the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany and the mountain-men were perfectly aware. This 
 was a colony, an American colony, stolen in under the 
 very nose of the Hudson's Bay Company, claiming their 
 friendship and their services on account of their holy call- 
 ing. And if the home Board was deceived, what mat- 
 tered it? "they builded better than they knew:" they 
 furnished the means by which an American colony estab- 
 lished itself on Oregon soil, and being once established, 
 it could not be dislodged. 
 
 It is no part of the writer's design to say that the event 
 which happened was foreseen. It was the logical result 
 of unforeseen circumstances. A few religious enthusiasts 
 had undertaken what they could not perform — the Chris- 
 tianizing of a low order of savages. They found them- 
 selves in a distant and beautiful country, where it was 
 easier to remain than to return. Homes were growing 
 up around them ; children were born here ; it was a mild 
 
 1 
 
 r 
 
290 
 
 MEMORIAL TO CONGRESS, 
 
 and salubrious climate : why should they desire to quit 
 it ? As for the mission property, had it not been intended 
 to benefit them ? vrhj should they relinquish it ? Let the 
 future take care of itself 
 
 All this is not so very difficult to understand. "What 
 was ill-looking and hard to be comprehended was the re- 
 luctance with which they ever assisted any other American 
 settlers. It would seem natural that, in their isolated situ- 
 ation, surrounded by Indians, and subject most completely 
 to the will of the anti- American Hudson's Bay Company, 
 they should ardently desire an influx of their own coun- 
 trymen, even at a considerable expense to themselves; 
 for they were exceeding jealous of the British influence, 
 and of the designs of the British government. Already 
 had they memorialized Congress that they had "settled 
 themselves in said Territory, under the belief that it was a 
 part of the public domain of said States, (United States,) 
 and that they might rely upon the government thereof 
 for the blessings of free institutions and the protection of 
 its arms." 
 
 They had also intimated that they had reason not only 
 to fear the Indians, but " also othev^ that would do them 
 harm," meaning the Hudson's Bay Company. In this 
 early memorial they set forth, in glowing colors, the nat- 
 ural advantages and abundant resources of the Territory, 
 and warned the Government of the intention of the Eng- 
 lish to claim that portion of it, at least, which laid north 
 of the Columbia River, and closed by respectfully asking 
 for the " civil institutions of the American Republic." 
 
 In the main the memorial was correct enough, as the 
 Governmen'^ was aware. It was, however, ungenerous 
 and ungrateful toward the Hudson's Bay Company, oi 
 its representative. Dr. McLaughlin, who certainly had 
 done nothing but good to themselves and their country- 
 
TRYING POSlliON 01'' I)U. MCLAUGIILIX. 
 
 291 
 
 men. Unless, indeed, they considered it evil for him to 
 be faitlifiil to the interests of the Company, and the Brit- 
 ish Government, as they meant to be to the interests of 
 their own. 
 
 It was truly an unenviable position which Dr. McLaugh- 
 lin held during those years of waiting for the settlement 
 of the boundary question. Even in his own particular 
 phiee and private dcnnain he was not left at peace. For 
 at Vancouver there were two parties, the Patriots or 
 Ihitish, and the Philosophers or Liberals.* Of the latter 
 was Dr. ]\IcLaughlin, " who held that American principles 
 (if legislation, in commercial and civil matters, were, gener- 
 ally speaking, just and humane ; and from which even 
 Ilritish legislation derived some useful hints." It required, 
 what Dr. McLaughlin was, a man of unusual force of 
 character and goodness of heart, to preserve the peace in 
 Oregon as he did do. 
 
 Had he been what he was continually suspected and 
 accused of being, the enemy of American settlement and 
 settlers, it would have been an easy matter enough to have 
 got rid of them altogether. Instead of entertaining, help- 
 ing, and succoring them on all occasions, if he had sinqoly 
 let them quite alone they must have perished. No snuill 
 community like the Methodist Mission could have sustained 
 it-elf in Oregon without a government, without ai'ms, 
 without a market, and surrounded as they were by twenty 
 thousand savages. It was Fort Vancouver which kept the 
 Indians quiet. It was the Hudson's Bay Company who 
 settled all difficulties with the savages, and who furnished 
 means of communication, transportation, and protection 
 at the same time. With unblushing selfishness the mission- 
 aries never ceased to accept and even solicit every benefit 
 
 * Oreyon Territory, By John Dunn of the II. B. C 
 
 ^=;:^ 
 
 
292 
 
 FEAR OF CATHOLICISM, 
 
 the Company could bestoy--, at the same time they continu- 
 ally uttered their suspicions r.ad charges against the Com- 
 l)any's principal agent, who continued with wonderful 
 magnanimity to load them with his favors. 
 
 It was not altogether because Dr. McLaughlin wavS a 
 representative of the British influence in the country, that 
 the missionaries persisted in misconstruing his every action. 
 Quite as strong a reason was his sectarian belief. A 
 Roman Catholic was, in those days of religious prejudice, 
 something totally abhorrent in Protestant estimation. The 
 Oregon missionaries, neither Methodist nor Presbyterian, 
 could ever quite rid themselves of the notion that Dr. 
 McLaughlin was in some secret rnd mysterious manner 
 implicated in a design to overthrow Protestantism in Ore- 
 gon, and by a sort of second St. Bartholomew's Eve, to 
 exterminate every man, woman, and child who professed 
 it. What especially confirmed their suspicions was the 
 fact that after the Protestant missionaries had been some- 
 time settled in the country, the Doctor invited some priests 
 of his own church to do the same ; having one stationed at 
 "^/"ancouver, and another over the Canadian settlement at 
 Champoeg. Then, as might be expected, others followed, 
 and settled among the Lidians in the Upper country. 
 That the multitude of doctrines afterwards created distrust 
 in the minds of the savages, there can be no doubt ; but 
 then, could they not see that the Protestants differed 
 among themselves, and that the Catholics did not? 
 
 Besides the mission party, which was inimical to the 
 British influence, and even to the name of anything British, 
 there was also the American party, which was made up of 
 everybody American outside of the Mission. The moun- 
 tain-men were antagonistic from long habit, from the cus- 
 tom of making war upon the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 which the leaders of the American Fur Companies incul- 
 
TIIK MISSION PARTY AND THE AMERICAN PARTY. 293 
 
 cated (luring years of rivalry in the mountains. As for 
 the few other adventurers then in Oregon, most of them 
 luid some personal quarrel with the H. B. Company's 
 af^onts, or simply joined the American party from a senti- 
 ment of patriotism. 
 
 Ill the case of Ewing Young, for example : When he 
 first came into the country from California, he was accom- 
 panied by Mr. Kelly, whose history has already been 
 ojven. Besides Kelly, tliere were a number of sailors, 
 deserters from vessels, and not having a very reputable 
 ippearanco. This party traveled in company with the 
 Iludson's Bay trading party through the most dangerous 
 part of the country, accompanying them to Vancouver. 
 
 It so happened that the trader from California brought 
 a letter to Dr. McLaughlin from the Spanish governor of 
 California, warning him against Kelly and Young, say- 
 inir that they had stolen horses. On this information, Dr. 
 McLaughlin refused to have anything to do with Young 
 and his associates, except Kelly, who being ill, was placed 
 in u house at the fort, and nursed and fed through the 
 winter, and finally sent to the Sandwich Islands in one of 
 the Company's vessels. 
 
 Ill revenge for the slight put upon him by Dr. McLaugh- 
 lin, Young and one of his associates, in the following year, 
 started the erection of a distillery, with the intention of 
 selling liquor to the Indians. But upon this movement 
 the missionaries took alarm, and oifered to pay Young the 
 full value of his outlay if he would give up the business and 
 undertake something else. To this Young and his part- 
 ner consented on being properly petitioned by nearly all 
 the white settlers in the country outside of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company. 
 
 Shortly after this the Cattle Company was formed, and 
 the mission gave Young something to do, by sending him 
 
 > /• 
 
294 
 
 EWINO YOUNG A lUriTOHlCAL ClIAUACTER. 
 
 'l ) 
 
 !i 
 
 to California for cattle, and as he received cattle for pay. 
 ment, and stock was immensely high in Oregon, he soon 
 became a man of wealth and standing. The mission made 
 much of him, because he was as it were, a brand snatched 
 from the burning, and a good hater of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company besides. In truth Mr. Young became a histori- 
 cal character by dying in the summer of 1841, and thereby 
 causing to be held the first Primary Meeting of the People 
 of Oregon. Having died possessed of considerable wealth, 
 and no heirs appearing to claim it on the spot, his frieiuls. 
 after first prudently burying him, adjourned from the graye 
 to the shade of a tree, and took prompt measures to "call 
 a public meeting for the purpose of appointing officers for 
 the government of the community, and ^Mri«C(!</rtW// to 
 provide for the 2'>r<>per disposition of the estate of Ew'mj 
 Young y The legend runs, that the state, that is to say 
 the Mission, divided the property aU'ectionately among 
 themselves, and that afterwards there appeared a claimant 
 who succeeded in regaining a portion; but that, is neither 
 here nor there in this narrative. 
 
 It is the writer's opinion that earthly perfection is far to 
 seek and hard to find; and that it does not reside in Fur 
 Companies' forts, nor mission establishments. One thing, 
 however, the mind persists in asking itself: Would there 
 not have been more unity among all the American settlers, 
 more respect for religion, and more universal benevolence 
 in Oregon, had the prominent men of the mission party 
 shown themselves less selfish and grasping ? No wonder 
 that when the superior benevolence of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company put to shame their avarice, many accounted for 
 the superior kindness of Dr. McLaughlin by calling it Jes- 
 uitical. A little more of the same Jesuitical spirit would 
 have softened and brightened the character of those mis- 
 sionaries to the future historian of Oregon. 
 
ruSlTION OF THI>: MOUNTAIN-MEN IN OREGON. 
 
 295 
 
 Yet 1)0 it not said tliat tlioy did no good in tlicir day 
 and generation. If tlioy were not all eonsistont Christian 
 teachers, a few were. If as a class or i)arty they proved 
 tlu'iiiselves selfish and illiberal, they were yet as a class 
 advocates of good morals, and good order, of industry, 
 education, and free institutions. 
 
 It will be readily understood that there could be little 
 sympathy between the missionaries and the mountain-men, 
 I'or while one party prayed a great deal and very conspicu- 
 ously, the other never prayed at all, but on the contrary 
 rather inclined to make a jest of sacred matters, and pious 
 observances. Then too, the mission party were well-to-do, 
 and contiimally increasing their worldly goods by sharp 
 bargains and general acquisitiveness, while the mountain- 
 men were poor, prodigal, and not always industrious. In 
 short, the aristocracy of American Oregon was the Metho- 
 dist mission, an aristocracy second only to that of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, while the mountain-men, with 
 big, rebellious hearts, were compelled, at the same time 
 that they refused, to acccjpt the position thrust upon them. 
 
 .in .:.c: ,.. 
 
 ..•■.;:'•*■' jH 
 
 :;:.vtvv.-;. 
 
■^■^T 
 
 29G 
 
 WILKES EXPLOlllNG EXPEDITION. 
 
 '1/ 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV, 
 
 '',('. ;■ 
 
 1841. WiiEX spring opened, Meek assisted Newell in 
 breaking the ground for wheat. This done, it became nec- 
 essary to look out for sonic immediately paying employ- 
 luent. But paying occupations were hard to liud in that 
 new country. At last, like everybody else, Meek foiiiid 
 ^ himself, if not "hanging about," at least frequently visit- 
 ing Vancouver. Poor as he was, and un})romising as 
 looked the future, he was the same light-hearted, reckless, 
 and fearless Joe Meek that he had been in the mountains; 
 as jaunty and jolly a ragged mountaineer as ever Avas seen 
 at the Fort. Especially he delighted in recounting his hi- 
 dian fights, because the Company, and Dr. McLaughlin in 
 particular, disapproved the American Company's conduct 
 with the Indians. 
 
 When the Doctor chanced to overhear Meek's stories, 
 as he sometimes did, he would say "Mr. Joe, Mr. Joe, — (<a 
 habit the Doctor had of speaking rapidly, and repeating 
 his words,) — Mr. Joe, Mr. Joe, you must leave off killing 
 Indians, and go to work." . .*;. 
 
 "I can't work," Meek would answer in his impressively 
 slow and smooth utterance, at the same time giving his 
 shoulders a slight shrug, and looking the Doctor pleasantly 
 in the face. 
 
 During the summer, however, the United States Explor- 
 ing Squadron, under Commodore Wilkes, entered the Co- 
 lumbia River, and proceeded to explore the country in 
 several directions ; and it was now that Meek found an 
 
 i\ 
 
■^r 
 
 -J 
 
 INTEIICIIANGE OF COURTESIES AT VANCOUVER. 
 
 297 
 
 oinploymcnt suited to him ; being ongag-ed by Wilkes as 
 pilot and servant while on his several tours through the 
 country. 
 
 On lh(^ arrival of three vessels of the squadron at Van- 
 couver, and the iirst ceremonious visit of Dr. l\leLan; Idin 
 aud his associates to Commodore Wilkes on board, there 
 was considerable display, the men in the yards, saluting-, 
 aud all the honors due to the representative of a frientlly 
 foreign power. After dinner, while the guests were walk- 
 ing uu dock engaged in conversation, the talk turned up- 
 ou the loss of the Peacock, one of the vessels beloniiinir 
 to the II. S. squadron, which was wrecked on the bar .at 
 the mouth of the Columbia. The English gentlemen were 
 polite enough to be expressing their regrets at the loss to 
 the United States, when Meek, who had picked up a little 
 history in spite of his life spent in the mountains, laugh- 
 ingly interrupted with : 
 
 "No loss at all, gentlemen. Uncle Sam can get another 
 Peacock the way he got that one." 
 
 Wilkes, who probably regretted the allusion, as not be- 
 ing consonant with the spirit of hospjitality, passed over 
 tlie interruption in silence. But when the gentlemen from 
 Vancouver had taken leave he turned to Meek with a 
 meaning twinkle in his eyes : 
 
 "Meek," said he, "go down to my cabin and you'll find 
 tliere something good to eat, and some first-rate brandy." 
 Of course Meek went. 
 
 While Wilkes was exploring in the Cowelitz Valley, 
 with Meek and a Hudson's Bay man named Forrest, as 
 guides, he one day laid down in his tent to sleep, leaving 
 his chronometer watch lying on the camp-table beside 
 him. Forrest, happening to observe that it did not agree 
 with his own, which he believed to be correct, very kindl}^, 
 as he supposed, regulated it to agree with his. On awak- 
 
21)8 
 
 LAND KXrKDlTlOX TO CALIFORNIA. 
 
 cninii: niul takiiii!; u[) liis ■yvatcli, u puzzled expression came 
 over Wilkes' taee for ii luomeiit, as ho diseovercd tiie 
 ehaiige in the time ; then one of anger and disiippoinf. 
 ment, as what had occurred Hashed over his mind; W 
 lowed by some rathei" strong expressions of iiuliffniitiun. 
 Forrest was penitent when he perceived the mischief done 
 by his meddling, but that would not restore the chruiiom- 
 eter to the true time: and this accident proved a serious 
 annoyance and hindrance during the remainder of the 
 expedition. ><< 
 
 After exploring the Cowelitz Valley, Wilkes dispatched 
 a party undin* Lieutenant Eminons, to proceed up the 
 Wallamct Valley, thence south along the old trail of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, to California. Meek was em- 
 ployed to pilot this party, Avhich had reached the head of 
 the valley, wlicn it became necessary to send for some pa- 
 pers in the possession of the Commodore ; and he returned 
 to Astoria upon this duty. On joining Emmons again lie 
 found that some of his men had become disaffected toward 
 him: especially Jandreau, the same Frenchman who 
 prayed so dramatically at the Dalles. 
 
 Jnnclreau confided to ^Meek that he hated Emmons, and 
 intenci«^'c] to kill him. The next morning when Lieut. E. 
 was examining the arms of the party, he fired off Jau- 
 dreau's gun, which being purposely overcharged, flew 
 back and inflicted some injuries upon the Lieutenant. 
 
 "What do you mean by loading a gun like .that?" in- 
 quired Emmons, in a rage. 
 
 "I meant it to kill two Lijuns; — one before, and one 
 behind ;" answered Jandreau. • :,.:V 
 
 As might bo conjectured Jandreau was made to fire his 
 own gun after that. 
 
 The expedition had not proceeded much farther when 
 it again became necessary to send an express to Vancou- 
 
 ii 
 
A VISIT TO THE NEW MISSION. 
 
 2'J9 
 
 vcr, itiid Me(.'k was ordered njimi thin duty, TTore he 
 found lliiit Wilkes hud piircliiised a small vessel which he 
 iiiuiicd the On'(/on, with which lie was about to leave the 
 coiiiitiy. As thei-e was no further use for his services our 
 quuiidiiin trnpi)er was a<^'aiii thrown out of (!niploynieiit. 
 hi this e.\i<^eiu'y, finding it necessary to make; some pi'o- 
 visioti for the winter, he became a gleaner of wiieat in the 
 liclds of his more provident neighbors, by which means a 
 suHicicnt sni)ply was secured to keep himself and his small 
 fiiiiiilv in food nntil another spring. 
 
 When Avintcr set in. Meek paid a visit to the new mis- 
 sion, lie had been there once before, in the spring, to 
 l)iiy an axe. Think, reader, of traveling fifty or more 
 iiiik's, on horseback, or in a small boat, to procure so sim- 
 ple iuid necessary an article of civilized life as an axe ! 
 But none of the evory-day conveniencies of living grow 
 spontaneously in the wilderness — more's the i)ity : — else 
 life in the wildei'ness would bo thought more delightful 
 liir than life in the most luxurious of cities; inasmuch as 
 Xatnre is more satisfying than art. 
 
 Moek's errand to the mission on this occasion was to 
 fnid whether he could get a cow, and credit at the same 
 time; for the prospect of living for another winter on 
 boiled wheat was not a cheerful one. lie had not suc- 
 cocded, and was returning, when at Champoeg he met 
 a Mr. Whitcom, superintendent of the mission farm. A 
 conversation took place Avherein Meek's desire for a cow 
 became known. The missionaries never lost an opportu- 
 nity of proposing prayers, and Mr. Whitcom thought this 
 a good one. After showing much interest in the condi- 
 tion of ^leek's soul, it was proposed that he should pray. 
 
 "/can't pray: that's your business, not mine," said 
 Meek pleasantly. :''[;•■■• ^ *w. ^w,'i'j^m;.;: ^^,.U;-.^,; ■. ,.; s- - 
 
 ^^m 
 
 'j^-'' i'ii}i 
 
 m 
 
300 
 
 PRAYING FOR A COW. 
 
 "It is eveiy man's business to pray for himself," an- 
 swered Whitcom. 
 
 "Very well; some other time will do for that. What 
 I want now is a cow." 
 
 "How can you expect to get what you want, if you 
 wont ask for it ?"' inquired Whitcom. 
 
 "I reckon I have asked you; and I don't see nary cow 
 yet." ^ ^ '..:.. 
 
 "You must ask God, my friend: but in the first place 
 you must oray to be forgiven for your sins." 
 
 "I'll tell you what I'll do. If you will furnish the cotv, 
 I'll agree to pray for half an hour, right here on the 
 spot." ...... 
 
 "Down on your knees then." ■■ c • ;ym 
 
 " You'll furnish the cow ?" 
 
 "Yes," said Whitcom, fairly cornered. 
 
 Down on his knees dropped the merry reprobate, and 
 prayed out his half hour, with how much earnestness only 
 himself and Grod knew. 
 
 But the result was what he had come for, a cow ; for 
 Whitcom was as good as his word, and sent him home re- 
 joicing. And thus, with what he had earned from Wilkes, 
 his gleaned wheat, and his cow, he contrived to get 
 through another winter. 
 
 The summer had not been altogether wasted either, in 
 other respects. He had seer nearly the whole of West- 
 ern Oicgon ; had acquired not only an understanding of 
 its geography, but had learned to appreciate it, and its 
 consequence In a national point of view. He had found 
 it lovely, genial, and productive above any country he bad 
 ever seen, excepting that portion of California which he 
 had once visited ; — in some respects superior even to that. 
 He had begun to comprehend the political }.osition of Ore- 
 gon more thoroughly than before; he thought he knew 
 
 
'7T'W«P 
 
 THE GREAT EVENT OF THE YEAR. 
 
 301 
 
 ■what was good and what was bad about the Hudson's Bay 
 ('(»in[)any's iuflueiice, and the mission influence; — in short 
 lie liiul been learning to be an American citizen, instead 
 of a mountain ranger — an individual instead of a fraction 
 of a company. 
 
 The events which he had been a witness to, and the 
 associations he had enjoyed, had been doing much to edu- 
 cate in him unbiased Tiews of Oregon affairs. The great 
 event of that summer, in Oregon, had been the presence 
 of the American Squadron in Oregon waters. It was un- 
 derstood by tlie Americans to be significant on the part 
 of the Government, of some action which it was about to 
 take in regard to thi treaty of joint occupancy. So also 
 it was understood by the Hudson's Bay ConiDany, The 
 A:nericans Avere naturally anxious to find Commodore 
 Wilkes favorably impressed with the country and its nat- 
 ural Avealth. They were also very desirous that he should 
 sympathize with their desire to have the United States 
 extend its li^overnmeut over them. 
 
 As has been elsewhere stated, the death of Ewing 
 Yonng, Avliich occurred early in this year, furnished the 
 pretext lor the first primary meeting in Oregon. Follow- 
 ing up the idea of a form of laws, the mission party con- 
 sulted with ohe United States officers on the propriety of 
 establisliing a civil code for the government of the colony, 
 and were disappointed, and not a little hurt, at finding 
 that they did not see the necessity for it. . m ,* , 
 
 '• A committpc of five," says Wilkes, " priRcipally lay-members of the mis- 
 sion, waited upon me to consult and ask advice relative to the establishment 
 of liiws, etc.. After hearing attentively all theii- arguments and reasons for 
 this change, T pould see none suflicient'y strong to induce this step. No crime 
 a])iK'ai'.s yet to have been committed, and the persons and property of settlers 
 are secure. Their principal reasons appear to me to be, that it Avould give 
 tlu'in more importance in ihe eyes of others at a distance, and induce settlers 
 to Hock in, thereby r.aising the value of their farms awd stock. I could not 
 view the subject in such a light, and differed with them entirely as to the ne- 
 cessity or policy of adopting the change." 
 
 |.^i'* 
 
 • f 
 
 :.f fi 
 
302 
 
 THE "star of OREGON." 
 
 
 ^l. 
 
 Commodore Wilkes knew, and everybody knew, tliat 
 the British interest rlrcady felt itself threatened by the 
 presence of the exploring expedition. So sensitive T\'as 
 Wilkes on this subject, that he preferred camping outside 
 the Fort to accepting its hospitalities. He felt that for 
 the Americans to follow it up immediately with any at- 
 tempt at an independent government, would, or might he, 
 to precipitate upon the Government the necessity of 
 action for which it was not yet pro} ;"ev ^r to provoke 
 an enmity by no means desirable in ilh;.jl present weak- 
 condition. 
 
 Another difliculty was also submitted to Commodore 
 Wilkes. A party of eight young men from the States, 
 who had, lilvc other adventurers, drifted into Oregon irom 
 the mountains and California, had determined to return 
 to their homes, because, as they said, there were no young 
 white women in that country to marry, and they were 
 unwilling to remain without female society, or to take 
 native wives. Not being able to reeross the conJiu.nt, 
 Oiey had determined to build a vessel and to g- by .^ea, 
 at least so far as the Bay of San Francisco, ^ i\ ' ":;y 
 might fall in Avith a trading vessel going home. .1' i -1/ 
 of them knew anything abou. navigation, though oii ^ , 
 them was a ship-carpenter, but they trusted they should 
 be al)le to sail their little craft, which they had named 
 the Star of Oregon., safely to some port where assistance 
 could reach them. What they wanted of the Commodore 
 was a sea-letter, aad that he sh-^ m' intercede with Dr. 
 McLaughlin, who, through some misunder'-' •: Jiiig, had 
 refused them any further supplies. On receiv;' ;i f dvlcc 
 from Wilkes that they should explain to Dr. McLaughlin 
 whatever seemed wrong tv^ hip\ they did so, and obtained 
 the necessary ropes, sail.?, proA ■'-'-^Tis, etc., for their vessel, 
 and linally made a safe voyage to San Francisco, where 
 
^^!W 
 
 CELEBRATION OF MARRIAGE. 
 
 303 
 
 Icncw, 
 led by the 
 isitive was 
 ng outside 
 It that for 
 th any at- 
 ■ might be, 
 cessity of 
 provoke 
 3sent weak 
 
 ommodore 
 ;he States, 
 ■egon iTom 
 . to return 
 ) no young 
 thev were 
 DP to take 
 con.iucnt, 
 
 -■' 
 
 .:oa. 
 
 they sold dieir vessel for a good price, and took passage 
 home by some larger one. Such were some of the ex- 
 amples of successful daring which the early history of 
 Oregon furnished. 
 
 During this summer, also, a trading vessel — the Thomas 
 Perkins, from Boston, Yarneij, master, — entered the Co- 
 hnubia with a cargo of Indian goods and liquor. To pre- 
 vent the liquor being sold to the Indians, Dr. McLaughlin 
 liouglit up the \vhole cargo, storing the liquor at Vancou- 
 ver, where it remained for several years untasted. Had 
 that liquor got among the Indians, it is most probable 
 that the American colony would have been destroyed, or 
 , riven into Fort Vancouver for protection. 
 
 Perhaps the most important person?! event which dis- 
 tinguished this year in Meek's history, was the celebra- 
 tion, according to the rites of the Christian church, of his 
 marriage with the Nez Perce woman who had already 
 borne him two children, and who still lives, the mother 
 of a family of seven. 
 
 gll Oi. ^ , ' 
 ey should 
 ad named 
 assistance 
 3mmodorc 
 v/ith Dr. 
 .1'.ig, had 
 V rdvicc 
 cLaughlin 
 1 obtained 
 pcir vessel 
 ico, where 
 
 20 
 
304 
 
 THE BALANCE OF TOWEil LS' OKEUON. 
 
 CPIAPTEH XXV. 
 
 1842. By the opening of another spring, Meek had 
 so far overcome his distaste for form labor as to put in a 
 field of wheat for himself, with Donghty, and to make 
 some arrangements about his future subsistence. This 
 done, he was ready, as usual, for anything in the way of 
 adventure which might turn up. This was, however, a 
 very quiet summer in the little colony. Important events 
 were brooding, but as yet results were not perceptible, 
 except to the mind of a prophet. The Hudson's Bay 
 Company, conformably to British policy, were at work 
 to turn the balance of power in Oregon in favor of Brit- 
 ish occupation, and, unknown even to the colonists, tlie 
 United States Government was taking what measures it 
 could to shift the balance in its own favor. Very little 
 was said about the subject of government claims among 
 the colonists, but a feeling of suspense oppressed all 
 parties. 
 
 The work of putting in wheat and improving of farms 
 had just begun to slacken a little, when there was an ar 
 rival in the Columbia River of a vessel from Boston— the 
 Chenamus^ Captain Couch. The Chenaiim. brought a 
 cargo of goods, which were placed in store at Wallamet 
 Falls, to be sold to the settlers, being the first successful 
 attempt at trade ever made in Oregon, outside of the 
 Hudson's Bay and Methodist Mission stores. 
 
 When the Fourth of July came, the Chenamm was 
 
THE FOURTH OF JULY. 
 
 305 
 
 was anar- 
 
 Iviu"- in the Wtilliimet, below the Falls, near where the 
 nrcseiit city of Portland stands. Meek, who was always 
 first to be at any spot where noise, bustle, or excitement 
 miu'lit bu anticipated, and wdiose fine humor and fund of 
 aiii'cdoto made him always welcome, had borrowed a boat 
 li'oiu Cnpt. Couch's clerk, at the Falls, and gone down to 
 the vessel early in the morning, before the salute for the 
 (llorious Fourth w\as fired. There he remained aU day, 
 enjoying a patriotic swagger, and an occasional glass of 
 something good to drink. Other visitors came aboard 
 during the day, which was duly celebrated to the satisfac- 
 tion of all. 
 
 Towards evening, a party from the Mission, wishing to 
 return to the Falls, took possession of Meek's borrowed 
 l.ioat to go off with. Now was a good opportunity to 
 show tlie value of free institutions. Meek, like other 
 mountain-men, felt the distance which the missionaries 
 placed between him and themselves, on the score of their 
 moral and social superiority, and resented the freedom 
 with which they appropriated what he had with some 
 trouble secured to himself Intercepting the party when 
 more than half of them were seated in the boat, he in- 
 formed them that they were trespassing upon a piece of 
 property which for the present belonged to him, and for 
 which he had a very urgent need. Vexed by the delay, 
 and by having to relincpiish the boat to a man wdio, ac- 
 cording to their view of the case, could not "read his 
 title clear," to anything either on earth or in heaven, the 
 missionaries expostulated somewhat warmly, but Meek in- 
 sisted, and so compelled them to wait for some better 
 opportunity of leaving the ship. Then loading the boat 
 with what was much more to the purpose — a good supply 
 of provisions. Meek proceeded to drink the Captain's 
 liealth in a very ostentatious manner, and take his leave. 
 
 /K 
 
 
 i; 
 
 
 ii . 
 I'" 
 
 
 1 ). ', ■ 
 
 3 
 
 
306 
 
 ARRIVAL OF AN INDIAN AGENT. 
 
 ■li 
 
 ■il 
 
 This slight encounter is related only to illustrate the sort 
 of feeling which made the missionaries and those Ameri- 
 cans usually denominated as "settlers," two parties instead 
 of one. 
 
 The summer passed away, the harvest was gathered, 
 and in September there was a fresh excitement in the 
 Valley. Dr. White, a member of the mission, who came 
 out in 1840, quarreled with the superintendent of the 
 mission, Mr. Lee, and returned to the States in 1841, now 
 re-appeared in Oregon as the bearer of glad tidings. It 
 appeared that Dr. White, after settling his affairs with the 
 Board at home, had given such information to the Gov- 
 ernment concerning Oregon affairs, as had induced the 
 Executive to commission him Indian Agent, with certain 
 not very clearly defined powers. What these powers 
 were, did not at first so much interest the community, as 
 that he had any at all ; for the fact of his holding any 
 commission from the United States indicated to them that 
 the Government was about to take a step in their behalf, 
 which their eager imaginations willingly construed into a 
 settlement of the boundary question, the erection of a 
 territorial government in Oregon, and the complete dis- 
 comfiture of the Hudson's Bay Company. 
 
 In addition to the pleasure which Dr. White's commis- 
 sion gave, he was able to furnish another and equally 
 good promise for the future, in the shape of a printed 
 copy of a bill, then before the Senate, proposing to do- 
 nate 640 acres of ..vud to every white male inhabitant, 
 half that quantity to a wife, and one-fourth to every child 
 under eighteen years of age. That these liberal offers 
 were contained in Mr. Linn's bill was well understood to 
 be a bid for settlers, nor did the colonists doubt that it 
 would induce emigration. 
 • To crown their satisfaction, over a hundred immigrants 
 
5«1 
 
 RECEPTION OF THE IMMIGRANTS. 
 
 307 
 
 liad accompanied Dr. AVliite on his return, each with a 
 copy of Mr. Linn's bill in their hands, as it were to show 
 their title to the country. These immigrants had left 
 their wagons at Fort Hall, having been overtaken by 
 heavy storms, and concluded their journey on horseback, 
 traveling from the Dalles of the Columbia to the Wallamet 
 Falls, by a trail over the Cascade mountains and around 
 the base of Mt. Hood, thus avoiding Fort Vancouver en- 
 tirely. 
 
 To receive the new comers properly, required some 
 considerable exertion on the part of the colony, which 
 Avas hardly prepared in matter of tenements and provis- 
 ions for such an influx of population. However, being 
 the first invoice, they were made very welcome, and the 
 more so, that there were among them a number of intelli- 
 gent professional gentlemen, with their families, and that, 
 fur the most part, all were in independent circumstances. 
 
 The only thing that dampened the ardor of the colonists 
 was, that Dr. White affirmed that 'his authority among 
 tliem amounted to that of governor of the colony. Now, 
 ill the first place, they had not any government, therefore 
 could not have any governor. True, there had been cer- 
 tain, persons elected to fill certain offices, on the occasion 
 before referred to, of the death of Young. But there 
 had been no occasion for the exercise of their various 
 functions, and the whole matter was of doubtful substan- 
 tiality. Besides, if they were to have a governor, which 
 they persisted they did not need, they would have desired 
 to signify their preference. After considerable contro- 
 versy, Dr. White was finally obliged to be satisfied with 
 liis Indian agency, and Oregon got on as before, without 
 a governor. . ^ - • .- ; 
 
 As might be anticipated, the Hudson's Bay Company 
 were not well pleased with the turn affairs seemed taking. 
 
 ¥ 
 
 i 
 
 5 *. 
 
308 
 
 THE ASIinUTlTON TREATY. 
 
 They, on their own part, wcr-^ watching the action of 
 their own and the United States government, and had 
 their colonization schemes beside, as well as the Ameri- 
 cans. ISir George Simpson, governor of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company, had induced about one hundred and fifty 
 of the French Canadian and Scotch settlers of the Red 
 Kiver settlement to come down into Oregon and locate 
 on the North side of the Columbia. Their arrival hap- 
 pened rather later than that of the American immigrants, 
 and was in no way satisfactory, since most of them dis- 
 liked the portion of country assigned to them, that being 
 the gravelly region around Puget Sound, and finally set- 
 tled in the Wallamet Valley. 
 
 In the meantime, however. Dr. Whitman, of the Waii- 
 latpn Mission, in the upper country, was so fearful of the 
 intentions of the British government that he set out for 
 Washington late in the autumn of 1842, to put the Sec- 
 retary of State on his guard concerning the boundary 
 question, and to pray that it might be settled conformably 
 with the wishes of the Americans in Oregon. On his ar- 
 rival he found that the treaty known as the " Ashburton 
 Treaty" had been confirmed in the preceding summer, 
 and that it avoided all reference to the Oregon boundary, 
 by simply fixing upon a line for our frontier, extending 
 from the Atlantic coast to the Lake of the Woods, or less 
 than half-way across the continent. He, however, con- 
 ferred with Mr. Webster on the subject, representing to 
 him the folly of being persuaded to " swap off the Oregon 
 territory for a cod-fishery," and probnl)ly was able to en- 
 lighten him on the value of said territory. 
 
 It was in March, 1843, that Dr. Whitman arrived at 
 Washington. On reaching the Missouri frontier he had 
 found that a large number of persons held themselves in 
 readiness to emigrate, on the strength of Mr. Linn's bill, 
 
 11 
 
EMIGRATION' FROM MISSOURI. 
 
 309 
 
 !ver, con- 
 
 shoiikl it pass. To tlicsc he spoke encourngingly, advising 
 thorn to go Avitliout delay, as such a bill "would certainly 
 1)0 passed. Hastening over his business at Washington, 
 he returned to the frontier early, joining the emigration, 
 to whom he proved a most useful friend, and indefatigable 
 (Tuidc and assistant. Such was the struggle for the pos- 
 session of the Oregon Territory. 
 
 There was one feature, however, of this otherwise 
 rather cntcrtainiug race for possession, which was becora- 
 incr (|uite alarming. In all this strife about claiming the 
 country, the Indian claim had not been considered. It 
 has been already mentioned that the attempt to civilize or 
 Christianize the Indians of western Oregon was practically 
 an entire failure. But they were not naturally of a war- 
 like disposition, and had been so long under the control 
 of the Hudson's Bay Company that there was compara- 
 tively little to apprehend from them, even though they 
 felt some discontent at the incoming immigration. 
 
 But with the Indians of the upper Columbia it was dif- 
 fereut ; especially so with the tribes among whom the 
 Presbyterian missionaries were settled — the Walla- Wallas, 
 Cayuscs, and Nez Perces, three brave and powerful na- 
 tions, much united by intermarriages. The impression 
 ;vhicli these people had first made on the missionaries was 
 very favorable, their evident intelligence, inquisitiveness, 
 and desire for religious teachings seeming to promise a 
 good reward of missionary labor. Dr. Whitman and his 
 associates had been diligent in their efforts to civilize and 
 Christianize them — to induce the men to leave off their 
 migratory habits and learn agriculture, and the women to 
 learn spinning, sewing, cooking, and all the most essential 
 arts of domestic, life. At the first, the novelty of these 
 new pursuits engaged their in.erest, as it also excited 
 their hope of gain. But the task of keeping them to 
 
 n .»"■ 
 
 
 ■4 
 ■j.i , 
 
 t ,/'!! 
 
 ^;% 
 
 $ 
 
310 
 
 DISCONTENT OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 tlicir "work with sufTieiont stcudincss, was very great. 
 They re(|uirecl, like cliiklren, to be bribed witli promises 
 of more or less iinmeditite reward of tlieir exertions, nor 
 would tliey relinquish the fiiHiluient of a promise, even 
 though they had failed to perform the conditions on which 
 the promise became binding. 
 
 By-and-by they made the discovery that ncitlier the 
 missionaries could, nor the white man's God did, confer 
 upon them what they desired — the enjoyment of all the 
 blessings of the Avhite men — and that if they wished to 
 enjoy these blessings, they must labor to obtain them. 
 This discovery was very discouraging, inasmuch as the 
 Indian nature is decidedly averse to steady labor, and 
 they could perceive that very little was to be expected 
 from any progress which could be achieved in one gen- 
 eration. As for the Christian faith, they understood about 
 as much of its true spirit as savages, with the law of 
 blood written in their hearts, could be expected to under- 
 stand. Thoy looked for nothing more nor less than the 
 literal fulfilment of the Bible ^jromises — nothing less 
 would content them ; and as to the forms of their new 
 religion, they liked them well enough — liked singing and 
 praying, and certain orderly observances, the chiefs lead- 
 ing in these as in other matters. So much interest did 
 they discover at first, that their teachers were deceived 
 as to the actual extent of the good they were doing. 
 
 As time went on, however, there began to be cause for 
 mutual dissatisfaction. The Indians became aware that 
 no matter how many concessions their teachers made to 
 them, they were still the inferiors of the whites, and that 
 they must ever remain so. But the thought which pro- 
 duced the deepest chagrin was, that they had got these 
 white people settled amongst them by their own invita- 
 tion and aid, and that now it was evident they were not 
 
MISt^ION STATIONS OF THE UPPEIl COUNTllY. 
 
 311 
 
 to be bcnofited as liiul been hoped, as the wliites were 
 tiiriiing their attention to benefiting themselves. 
 
 As early as 1839, Mr. Smith, an associate of Mr. Spahl- 
 iiiij; in the country of the Nez Perces, was forbidden by 
 the high chief of the Nez Perces to cultivate the ground. 
 He iiad been permitted to build, but was assured that if ho 
 brolvL' the soil for the purpose of farming it, the ground 
 s ) Ijroken should serve to bury him in. Still Smith went 
 on in tlie spring to prepare for ploughing, and the chief 
 seeing him ready to begin, inquired if he recollected that 
 he liiul l)ecn forbidden. Yet persisting in his undertaking, 
 several of the Indians came to him and takhig him by the 
 shoulder asked him again "if he did not know that the hole 
 he should make in the earth would be made to serve for 
 his grave." Upon which third warning Smith left off, and 
 (jiiitted the country. Other missionaries also left for the 
 Wallanict Valley. • ^ 
 
 In 1842 there were three mission stations in the upper 
 country; that of Dr. Whitman at Waiilatpu on the Walla- 
 Walla River, that of Mr. Spalding on the Clearwater Iliver, 
 called Lapwai, and another on the Spokane River, called 
 Cimakaiu. These missions were from one hundred and 
 twenty to three hundred miles distant from each other, 
 and numbered altogether only about one ''c /5en whites of 
 both sexes. At each of these stations there was a small 
 body of land under cultivation, a few cattle and hogs, a 
 flouring and saw mill, and blacksmith shop, and such im- 
 provements as the needs of the mission demanded. The 
 Indians also cultivated, under the direction of their teach- 
 ers, some little patches of ground, generally but a small 
 garden spot, and the fact that they did even so much was 
 very creditable to those who labored to instruct them. 
 There was no want of ardor or industry in the Presbyterian 
 
 ,\^ 
 
 \ 
 
 : .l 
 
 
 i:| 
 
 
 f-4 
 
 
 f'-: 
 
 '■'1' 
 
 w 
 
 iL 
 
 
 i||- 
 
 1 
 
 ' f''*' 
 
 fW ' 
 
 i 1^ ■ 
 
 El^i 
 
 ! 'i' 
 
 Ml 
 
 
 til^'li 
 
312 THK MISHIONAUIE8 INSULTED AND TlIHEATKxNED. 
 
 miasion; on the contniry thoy applied tliomsclves conscien- 
 tiously to the work they had uudertukoii. 
 
 But this conscientious dischari^^c of duty did not give 
 them immunity from outrnf^e. Both Mr. 8[)iddin(]f and Dr. 
 Whitman liad been rudely handled by the Indians, had 
 been struck and spat upon, and had nose and oars pulled 
 Even the delicate and devoted Mrs. Spalding had been 
 grossly insulted. Later the Cayuses had assailed I)r. Whit- 
 man in his house with war-clubs, and broken down doors 
 of communication between the private apartments and tlic 
 public sitting room. Explanations and promises gencrully 
 followed these acts of outrage, yet it " aid seem that the 
 missionaries should have been warne( 
 
 The station at Waiilatpu being near fort Walla- Walla 
 was much resorted to by visitors and travelers. Dr. Whit- 
 man, who looked upon the country as belonging to the 
 United States, and who was actively ojiposcd to British in- 
 fluence from ])atriotic motives, had frequent and long con- 
 versations with his visitors not only on the subject of the 
 American claim, but upon the natural advantages of the 
 country, the fertility of its soil, and kindred topics, much 
 of which the Indians, who were always about the mission, 
 were able to understand, and from which they gathered 
 that the Americans intended to possess the country which 
 they considered as their own. They had seen that year 
 by year, for a long time, some Americans had passed 
 through their country and gone down to settle in the Walla- 
 met Valley. They had had a fresh alarm in the recent 
 emigration which had accompanied Dr. White from the 
 States. But most conclusive of all was the fact of Dr. 
 Whitman's visit to Washington, and his avowed inten- 
 tion of bringing back with him a large party of settlers 
 to hold the country against the English. • •, /. 
 
l)i;. WIIITK VI81TS THE' NEZ PEUCEB AND CAYUSEB. 313 
 
 mmm 
 
 Tiikinfjjfi(lvjintagGof Dr. Wliitman'sabsonco, tlio Cnynsos 
 hud IVi^lilened ^Irs. Whilinaii IVoiri lu'V homo to tlio Meth- 
 odist mission at the Dulles, by breaking into her bcd-cham- 
 lici' at night, with an infnnious design from -which she 
 hiiiclv escaped, and by snbseqnently bnrning down the 
 mill and destroying a consid(»rable qnantity of grain. 
 About the same time the Ncz Perces at the Jjiipwni mission 
 were very insolent, and had tlu'eatened ^Ir. Spalding's life ; 
 nil of which, one would say, was but a poor return for the 
 care and instruction bestowed upon them during six years 
 of patient effort on the part <d' their teaeliers. Poor as it 
 was, the Indians did not S(3C it in that light, but only 
 tlionglit of the danger which threatened them, in the possi- 
 ble loss of their country. 
 
 The nnonsinoss among the Indians had so much increased 
 since Dr. AMntman's departure, that it became necessary, 
 in November, for the newly arrived Indian agent to make 
 a journey to the upper coinitry to inquire into the cause 
 of the disturbances, and if j)ossible to adjust the diflicul- 
 tic's. In order the better to succeed in this, Dr. White 
 obtained the services of Thomas McKav of the Hudson's 
 Bay Conq^any — a son of that ill-fated McKay Avho perished 
 onboard the Tonquin in 1811, and whose mother, a half- 
 breed woman, was afterwards married to Dr. McLaughlin. 
 
 Both by his Indian blood, his long service in the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company, and the natural urbanity of his dispo- 
 sition, Mr. McKay was a man of note among the Indians ; 
 understanding their peculiarities better, and having more 
 influence over thein than almost any trader in the whole 
 country. Half a dozen well armed men, and two inter- 
 preters, were the only escort which, according to McKay, 
 ivas thought necessary. With this small party the agent 
 proceeded to the mission station at Waiilatpu, where some 
 
314 
 
 A CODE OP LAWS FOR THE NEZ PERCES. 
 
 r ■■ 
 
 w 
 
 gentlemen of the mission were staying, Mrs. Whitman 
 being absent at the Dalles. After taking note of the injury 
 done to the mission property here, the party contiruied on 
 to the Lapwai mission, where they had sent word for the 
 chiefs of the disaffected tribes to meet them. 
 
 Then took place the customary exchange of "talks" 
 which always characterize the Indian council. The Indians 
 were grave and dignified; they heard the addresses of the 
 agent and his friends, and received the compliments paid 
 to their advancement in the arts and in letters, with the 
 utmost decorum. They professed themselves desirous of 
 peace, and appeared satisfied ^vith the promises made by 
 the agent concerning what the Great Father of the United 
 States intended doing for them. 
 
 As has been stated in another place the Hudson's Bay 
 Company had done all it could to destroy chieftainships 
 among the tribes, in o: iei.* to prevent coalitions among 
 them. Dr. White restored i^ among the Nez Perces, 
 by counseling them to elect one rJgh chief, and to have 
 besides a chief to every village, in all ah 'it a dozen. 
 to assist him in the administration of the ^iws. A code 
 of laws for their government was then proposed and 
 agreed to, which made hanging the punishment for murder 
 or for burning a dwelling house. Theft was punishable 
 by double payment, and by whipping. Misdemeanor' 
 generally were left to the discretion of the chiefs, the 
 penalties being in most cases fines, and in some cases 
 whipping. 
 
 The naturally good character of the Nez Perces, 
 and the presence and sanction of two of the Hudson's 
 Bay Compan};, McKay, and McKiniey of Walla- Walla, 
 made it comparatively easy for Dr. W^hite to arrange 
 a peace with the Indians at Lapwai. On returning to 
 
 fl 
 
 L 
 
"^p 
 
 DR. WHITE . RETURNS TO THE WALLAMET. 
 
 315 
 
 Whitman 
 
 the injury 
 
 itinued on 
 
 •rd for the 
 
 )f "talks" 
 he Indians 
 sses of the 
 nonts paid 
 , with the 
 [esiroQS of 
 ; made b) 
 the United 
 
 Waiihitpn, however, few of the chiefs were found to be 
 assembled, Avliile many of them held aloof, and noth- 
 ing satisfactory was concluded. Under these circum- 
 stances Dr. White left an appointment to meet thcni 
 in April, of the next year, for the purpose of holdin<^ 
 a council. He then returned to the Wallamct, to watch 
 the course of events in the colony. 
 
 
 son's Bay 
 pftain ships 
 ns among 
 ez Perces, 
 id to have 
 
 a dozen, 
 A code 
 )0sed and 
 fjr murder 
 punishable 
 iemeanor" 
 
 diiefs, the 
 imG cases 
 
 .4] 
 
 z Perces, 
 
 Hudson's 
 illa-Walla, 
 D arrange 
 urning to 
 
 a 
 
 
 ; ■■■"' ' 
 
316 
 
 THE PLOT THICKENS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 ^■. 
 
 1842-3. The plot thickened that -winter, in the little 
 drama being enacted west of the Rocky Mountains. As 
 much as Dr. McLaughlin had felt it to be his duty towards 
 his country and the company he served, to do what he 
 could to secure their interests, he had also always acknowl- 
 edged the claims of humanity, hospitality, and social good 
 feeling. So much, ni fact, did his nature lean towards the 
 social virtue of brotherly love, that he became sometimes 
 the object of criticism bordering on censure, to his asso- 
 ciates, who on their side were as patriotic as the Ameri- 
 cans on theirs. 
 
 ^A, But so rapidly portentous events seemed hurrying on 
 at this particular juncture, that the good Doctor was led 
 to doubt almost that he had done the best thing in extend- 
 ing the hand of fellowship so freely to the political ene- 
 mies of Gr'^at Britain. His critics might with some justice 
 accuse him of encouraging American settlement in Oregon, 
 and of giving just that touch required, to shift the balance 
 of power into the hands of the United States. Such a 
 suspicion against him would be bad enough in the eyes of 
 his superiors ; but the pain it would occasion him could 
 hardly be exceeded by that occasioned by the denial to 
 such a suspicion given by the settlers themselves. 
 
 In a memorial to the Congress of the United States they 
 had petitioned for the protection of Government upon the 
 express ground that they apprehended harm, not only 
 
I. II I "«ilWii» 
 
 FOHMS OF GOVERNMENT DISCUSSED. 
 
 31T 
 
 from Iho Indians, but from the Hudson's Bay Company ; 
 wliicli approlicnsion was a direct insinuation or accusation 
 niriiinst Dr. McLaughlin. Naturally of a temper as irrita- 
 ble as his heart was warm and generous, these attacks 
 u})t)u his honor and humanity by tl.o very individuals 
 whom he had ever shown himself willing to serve, annoyed 
 liim excessively, and occasioned him to say that to those 
 individuals who had signed the obnoxious memorial he 
 wo''l'l never more show favor. As might bo expected, this 
 parc'onable show of indignation was made to stand for a 
 tlircnt against the welfare of the whole colony. 
 
 To add to the confusion, the subject of a form of gov- 
 ernment continued to be agitated in the colony. So far 
 as legal forms were necessary to the welfare of the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company, they had in their charter certain priv- 
 ileges of arrest and punishment suflicient for the preser- 
 vation of good order amon^^ i heir omphiy^s ; hence had no 
 need for any thing further in ihe way uf laws. Why ihcn 
 should they be desirous of joining any foreign organiza- 
 tion, or of subscribing to the laws mad^' by a pcw[)le who 
 owed allegiance to a rival government, and th( eby 
 strengthening their hands against their own government? 
 Sueh was the logical reasoning of the Canadian settlers 
 on the Wallamet, who at that time rather out numbered 
 the Americans. 
 
 On the other hand, it was equally logical foi .e Ameri- 
 cans to fear that a code of laws intended only to apply to 
 a portion of the population, would prove of little service^ 
 and might be provocative of frequent difiiculties; inas- 
 much as any criminal might take refuge under the flag of 
 the Ilndson's Bay Company, and escape by that Compa- 
 ny's denial of jurisdiction. 
 
 In this interval of doubt, the colony managed to get 
 along very well without any laws. But the subject was 
 
 If/It 
 
 
 il 
 
318 
 
 THE WOLF ASSOCIATION. 
 
 I i 
 
 If 
 
 not allowed to rest. Some truly lo7ig-lioadod politicians 
 had hit upon aii expedient to unite the population, Cana- 
 dian and American, u])on one common ground of interest. 
 
 The forests which clad the mountains and foothills in 
 perpetual verdure, and the thickets which skirted the nu- 
 merous streams flowing into the Wallamet, all al)ouiiclod 
 in wild animals, wdiose depredations upon the domestic 
 cattle, lately introduced into the country, were a serious 
 drawback to their natural increase. Not a settler, owning 
 cattle or hogs, but had been robbed more or less fre- 
 quently by the wolves, bears, and panthers, Avhich prowled 
 unhindered in the vicinity of their herds. ; rukf 
 
 Tliis was a ground of common interest to all settlers of 
 whatever allegiance. Accordingly, a notice was issued 
 that a meeting would be held at a certain time and place, 
 to consider the best means of preventing the destruction 
 of stock in the country, and all persons 'nterestcd were 
 invited to attend. This meeting was held on the 2cl of 
 February, 1843, and was well attended by both classes of 
 colonists. It served, however, only as a preliminary step 
 to the regular "Wolf Association" meeting which took 
 place a month later. At the meeting, on the 4th of March, 
 there was a full attendance, and the utmost harmony pre- 
 vailed, notwithstanding there was a w^ell-defmed suspicion 
 in the minds of the Canadians, that they were going to be 
 called upon to furnish protection to something more than 
 the cattle and hogs of the settlers. 
 
 After the proper parliamentary forms, and the choosing 
 of the necessary offit 'rs for the Association, the meeting 
 proceeded to fix the rate of bounty for each animal killed 
 by any one out of the Association, viz. $3.00 for a large 
 wolf; $1.50 for a lynx; $2.00 for a boar; and $5.00 for 
 a panther. The money to pay these bounties was to be 
 raised by subscription, and handed over to the treasurer 
 
 
A COMMITTEE OF TWELVE APPOINTED. 
 
 319 
 
 for (lisbiir?"'ment ; the currency being drafts on Port Van- 
 couver, the .iission, and the Milling Company; besides 
 wheat and other commodities. 
 
 This business being arranged, the real object of the 
 meeting" was announced in this wise : 
 
 ^'Bcsolvcd, — That a committee be appointed to take into 
 consideration the propriety of taking measures for the 
 civil and military protection of this colony." 
 
 A committee of twelve were then selected, and the 
 meeting adjourned. But in that committee there was a 
 most subtle mingling of all the elements — missionaries, 
 mountain-men, and Canadians — an attempt by an offer of 
 the honors, to fuse into one all the several divisions of po- 
 litical sentiment in Oregon. 
 
 That the Canadians were prepared for something of this 
 kind was probable from several circumstances. In the 
 first place, the subject of government, in several forms, 
 had been openly discussed that winter. The immigration, 
 of the previous autumn had added, much to the social re- 
 sources of the colony, both in numbers, and in variety of 
 ideas. The colony was not so much a missionary institu- 
 tion as formerly, simply because there had been an influx 
 of other than missionary brains ; and there w^ere people 
 now in Oregon, who, after studying the position of affairs, 
 were able to see the merits and demerits of the various 
 propositions brought up. Even in the Debating Society, 
 which was maintained by the most able men of the colony 
 and of the Hudson's Bay Company, at the Wallamet Falls, 
 the subject of a provisional form of government was freely 
 and fully discussed ; — some parties favoring the adoption 
 of a simple code of such laws as were needful to regulate 
 society in that isolated country, temporarily, until the 
 United States should recognize and adopt them into the 
 Union. Others wished for an independent form of gov- 
 21 
 
 
 r», S 
 
 i 
 
320 
 
 A rUOVISIONAL GOVERNMENT RECOMMENDED. 
 
 crnment, acknowledging no {illegiancc to any other, eitlior 
 then or kiter. A few still argued for no change in the 
 then existing state of things, feeling that no necessity had 
 yet arisen for manufacturing governments. 
 
 Of the independent government party Dr. McLaughlin 
 was Lelieved to be. Even some of the mission party fa- 
 vored a separate government, if, after waiting a term of 
 four years, the United States had set up no claim to their 
 allegiance. But the greater number of the people, not 
 Canadians, and the mountain-men especially, were for a 
 provisional government to last as long r.s in the course of 
 events it was needed, after which its pc wers were to re- 
 vert to the United States. '. ''■ ■?'" 
 
 In viev/" of all this talk, the Canadianr, were prepared 
 with an address which was to express thei ; view of the 
 case, and would have presented it at the m.^eting of the 
 Wolf Association, had not that meeting been so thorou?hlv 
 "wolfish" in its action as almost to disarm suspicion, and 
 quite prevent any reference to the main topic of thought 
 in all minds. The address was therefore reserved for a 
 more appropriate occasion, which was not long in coming. 
 
 On the 2d day of May, 1843, the committee appointed 
 March 4th to "take into consideration the propriety of tak- 
 ing measures for the civil and military protection of the 
 colony," met at Champoeg, the Canadian settlement, and 
 presented to the i3eople their ultimatum in favor of organ- 
 izing a provisional government. 
 
 On a motion being made that the report of the commit- 
 tee should be accepted, it was put to vote, and lost. All 
 ^ -was now confusion, various expressions of disappointment 
 or gratification being mingled in one tempest of sound. 
 
 When the confusion had somewhat subsided, Mr. G. W. 
 LeBreton made a motion that the meeting should divide; 
 those who were in favor of an organization taking their 
 
 M'r 
 
KEPOIIT ACCEPTED — THE DIE CAST. 
 
 321 
 
 i)ositions on the right hand ; and those opposed to it on 
 the lelt, marching into lile. The propcxsition carried ; and 
 Joe Meek, who, in all this historical reminiscence we have 
 almost lost sight of — though he had not lost sight of 
 ^.y^>lx[ii — stepped to the front, with a characteristic air of 
 the tree-born American in his gait and gestures: — 
 
 '• Who's for a divide ! All in favor of the Report, and 
 au Organization, follow me!" — then marched at the head 
 of his column, which speedily fell into line, as did also the 
 op})ositc party. 
 
 On counting, fifty-two were found to be ou the right 
 baud side, and fifty o]i the left, — so evenly were the 
 two parties balanced at that time. When the result was 
 made known, once more Mcek's voice rang out — 
 
 "Three cheers for our side!" 
 
 It did not need a second invitation ; but loud and long 
 the shout went up for Fheedom ; and loudest and longest 
 were heard the voices of the American •'mountain-men." 
 Thus the die was cast which made Oregon ultimately a 
 nieiuber of the Federal Union. 
 
 The Canadians were somewhat alarmed ai: the demon- 
 strations they had witnessed, and withdrew from the meet- 
 ing soon after the last vote was taken, not, however, with- 
 out presenting the address, whicn had been previously 
 prepared ; and which is given here, both as a curiosity of 
 literature, and a comprehensive bit of Oregon history. 
 
 • '•^■'^■ 
 
 ADDRESS 
 
 OF THE CANADIAN CITIZENS OF OIIEGON TO THE MEETING AT CHAMPOEG. 
 
 MARCH 4th, 1843. 
 
 We, the Canadian citizens of the WiHamette, considering, with interest and 
 iX'llection, the subject which unites the people at the present meeting, present to 
 ilii' AnnTican citizens, and particuhvrly to the gentlemen who called said meet- 
 iiip'. the unanimous expression of our sentiments of c./rdiality, desire of imion 
 iind inexhaustible peace between all the people, in view of our duty and the in- 
 terest of the new colony, and declare ; — 
 
 i . i 
 
 **— ■ 
 
 ,U.X.::- 
 
322 
 
 ADDKESS OF THE CANADIANS. 
 
 It 
 
 1st. That wc wish for hiws, or reguhitions, for the welfare of our persons 
 and the security of our property and hihors, 
 
 2d. Tliat we do not intend to rebel against the measures of that kind taken 
 last yeai', l)y a party of the people ; — although we do not approve of eertaia 
 regulations, nor certain modes of laws; — let those magistrates finish their time, 
 
 3d. Tiiat we will not address a new petition to the Government of the Uni- 
 ted States, because we have our reasons, till the line be decided, and the fron- 
 tiers of the states are fixed. 
 
 4th. That Ave are opposed to the regulations anticipated, and exposed to 
 consequences for the quantity, direction, &c., of lands, and whatsoever expiMise 
 for the same lands, because we have no direct guarantee from the government 
 to come, and, perhaps, to-morrow, all thoj^e measures may be broken. 
 
 5th. That we do not wish a provisional mode of government, too self-inter- 
 ested, and full of degrees, useless to our j)ower, and overloading the colony in- 
 stead of imjjroving it ; besides, men of laws and science are too scarce, and 
 have too much to do in such a new country. 
 
 Gth. That we wish either the mode of senate jr council, to judge the difE- 
 culties, punish the crimes, (except capital penalties,) fid make the regulations 
 suitable to the people. 
 
 7th. That the same council be elected, and composed of members from all 
 parts of the country, and should act in body, on the plan of civilized countries 
 in parliament, or as a jury, and to be represented, for example, by the president 
 of said council, and another member, as judge of peace, in each county, allow- 
 ing the principle of recalling to the whole senate. 
 
 8th. Tliat the members should be influenced to interest themselves to their 
 own welfare, and that of the public, by the love of doing good, rather than l)y 
 the hope of gain, in order to take off from the esteem of the people all suspi- 
 cions of interest in the persons of their representatives. 
 
 9th. Tliat they must avoid every law loading, and inexpedient to the peo- 
 ple, especially to the new arrivals. Unnecessary taxes, and whatever records 
 are of that kind, we do not want them. 
 
 10th. That the militia is useless at present, and rather a danger of bad sus- 
 picion to the Indians, and a dcday for the necessary labors, in the same time it 
 is a load ; we do not want it, either, at present. 
 
 11th. That we consider the country free, at present to all nations, till gov- 
 ernment shall have decided ; open to every individual wishing to settle, without 
 any distinction of origin, and without asking him anything, either to become an 
 English, Spanish, or American citizen. 
 I 1 2th. So we, English subjects, proclaim to be free, as well as those who 
 came from France, California, United States, or even natives of this country; 
 and we desire unison with all the respectable citizens who wish tg settle in this 
 country * or, we ask to be recognized as free amongst ourselves, to make r.ich 
 regulations as appear suitable to our wants, save the general interest of hanng 
 justice from all strangers who might injure us, and that our reasonable customs 
 and pretensions be respected. 
 
ELECTION OF OFFICERS — MEEK CHOSEN SHERIFF. 323 
 
 l.'ltli. Tliat wo are willinr; to submit to any lawful govcrnuR'nt, when it 
 coini's. 
 
 14tii. That we, do not iorjrct that we must make laws only for nceessary oir- 
 cuins'tances. llie more laws there are, the more opportunities for ro;,fiierv, for 
 those who make a practice of it, and, perhaps, the more alterations there "will 
 be ?'>nio day. 
 
 lath. That we do not forget in a trial, that before all fraud on fulfdling of 
 fdiiu' points of law, the ordintiry proofs of the certainty of the fact ought to be 
 (liih- wci'^iicd, so that justice may be done, and no shame given for fraud. 
 
 Itltli, In a new country, the more men employed and paid by the public, the 
 less ri'iiiains for industry. 
 
 17tli. That no one can be more desirous than we arc for the prosperity, 
 ainclioratioiis, and general peace of the country, and especially for the guaran- 
 ti'o of our rights and liberties ; and such is the wish we make for all those who 
 are, or may become, our fellow<'ountrynien, &c., for long years of peace. 
 [Then follow our names and persons.] 
 
 ■'if 
 
 The business of the meeting was concluded by the elec- 
 tion of a Supreme Judge, with probate powers, a clerk 
 of the court, a sheriff, four magistrates, four constables, 
 a trea.surer, a mayor, and a captain, — the two latter offi- 
 cers being instructed to form companies of mounted rifle- 
 men. In addition to these officers, a legislative committee 
 ^vas chosen, consisting of nine members, who were to re- 
 port to the people at a public meeting to be held at Cham- 
 poeg on the 5th of July following. Of the legislative 
 committee, two were mountain-men, with whose names the 
 reader is familiar — Newell and Doughty. Among the 
 other appointments, was Meek, to the office of sheriff; a 
 position for which his personal qualities of courage and 
 good humor admirably fitted him in the then existing state 
 of society. 
 
 And thus was formed the Provisional Government of 
 Oregon — a country without a governor, or any magiste- 
 rial head ; and without a treasury, or means to pay its leg- 
 islative committee, except by subscription, and * at the 
 rate of $1.25 per day in orders on some of the few busi- 
 ness firms west of the Rocky Mountains. On the 4th of 
 
324 
 
 THE FIRST OREGON LEGISLATURE. 
 
 July the people mot at Charapoeg to celebrate the day, 
 and eainped on the ground, to be in readiness for the 
 meeting of the 5th. At this meeting the reports of the 
 various committees of the legislature were approved by 
 the people, Dr. McLaughlin voting with the others. 
 
 At this meeting the Judiciary Committee recommeiKled 
 that the executive power should be vested in a committee 
 of three persons^ elected by qualified voters at the aniiuiil 
 election, who should have power to grant pardons and re- 
 prieve fur offences against the laws of the territory; to 
 call out the military force of the territory to repel inva- 
 sion or suppress insurrection, to take care that the laws 
 were faithfully executed, and to recommend such laws as 
 they may consider necessary, to the representatives of the 
 people, for their action : two members of this committee 
 to constitute a quorum to transact business. ,; ;.);))-, 
 
 Among the most notable of the acts of the first Oregon 
 legislature, was one which regarded a militia law, order- 
 ing the territorial militia to be formed into one battalion 
 consistnig of three companies of mounted riflemen; and 
 another regarding marriage, which permitted "All male 
 persons, of the age of sixteen and upwards, and all fe- 
 males of the age of fourteen and upwards" to engage in 
 morriage, provided the sanction of the parents could be 
 obtained. Unfortunately for the good of Oregon there 
 were too many parents, who, looking forward to the pas- 
 sage of the Donation Act, and being desirous of gaining 
 possession through their children of large bodies of land, 
 were only too eager to see their children married and as- 
 suming the responsibilities of parentage, before their own 
 childhood was fairly passed. r •■.„;-. 
 
 As for the laws generally adopted, they were those of 
 Iowa and New York mixed, and made suitable to the con- 
 dition of the colony. , ^ - -^ ,r^.. 
 
 ■i » ; 
 
INDIAN DIRTUUHANCES IN THE UPPER COUNTRY. 325' 
 
 T 
 
 Tlio result of success in the matter of eflfocting an or- 
 ganization Avas not altogether unalloyed happiness. The 
 Indians in the upper country were again in a tumult, and 
 freely expressed their dread of the coming immigration, 
 tlicii on its way, under the leadership of Dr. Whitman. 
 They were not ignorant of what had taken place in the 
 Wallaniet Valley ; neither, upon reflection, did they look 
 upon the visit of the Indian agent in the previous autumn 
 iis a promise of good, but regarded it rather as a token of 
 the encroachments of the whites. So far as the Nez Per- 
 ces were concerned, they had kept the laws given them 
 at that time, partly through the natural prudence of their 
 dispositions, and partly through the wise counsels of their 
 head chief, Ellis, who, having been educated at the Red 
 River settlement of the Hudson's Bay Company, was pre- 
 pared to use a reasonable discretion iu controling the bad 
 passions of his people. 
 
 l>nt the Cayuses and Walla- Wallas, the allies and rela- 
 tives of the Nez Perces, were in a different frame of mind, 
 having more immediate cause for alarm, from the fact that 
 their own teacher, Dr. Whitman, was bringing upon them 
 tlie curse they dreaded. In a state of mind totally un- 
 settled and rebellious, they waited for the promised visit 
 of Dr. White in the spring. 
 
 Such were the reports which had reached the Wallamet 
 from the upper country of the turbulence of the Indians, 
 that it was regarded as a dangerous movement for the 
 agent to go among them. However, he resolved to un- 
 dertake it, and accompanied by only one gentleman from 
 the mission, Mr. Hines, and their servants, set out for the 
 infected district. Before reaching Vancouver they were 
 met by a letter from Dr. McLaughlin, advising them not 
 to proceed, and informing them that, from intelligence 
 lately received, there was really much to apprehend. He 
 
 ■ V ; 
 
 - i. 
 n 
 

 i 
 
 1 
 
 w 
 
 32G THE AGENT STAHTS FOU THE INFECTED DISTUIOT. 
 
 also informed thcui that the IndiauH had expressed their 
 deterraiiuitioii not to make war upon the Hudson's Iky 
 Company, but only upon the Americans ; and gave it as 
 his opinion that the best way to end the disturlmuce was 
 to remain quietly at home. 
 
 Not agreeing with Dr. McLaughlin in rcsi^oct to the 
 best manner of soothing the Indians, Dr. White and Mr. 
 Hines proceeded to the fort, where they wished to obtain 
 supplies of goods, provisions, powder, and balls for the 
 expedition. This visit to the fort, under the circumstances, 
 was one of those frequent acts, half cringing and half au- 
 dacious, which the sensitive historian rather flinches from 
 recording, as reflecting upon the honor and i.niity of 
 Americans. In explanation we shall quote V.!. Hines' 
 own words : 
 
 " Called on Dr. ISIcLaiighlin for goods, provisions, powder, lialls, &c., for our 
 accommodation on our voyage up the Columl)la; anil altlioujj;li he was greatly 
 suprised that, under the circumstances, we should think of going among those 
 excited Indians, yet he ordered his clerks to let us have whatever we wantcil. 
 However, we found it rather squally at the fort, not so much on account of our 
 going among the Indians of the interior, as in consequence of a certain memo- 
 rial having been sent to the United States Congi'css, implicatiiu; the conduct of 
 Dr. McLauglilin and the lluihoti's Bay Company, and hearing the signatures of 
 seventy Americans. I inquired of the Doctor if he had refused to grant sup- 
 plies to those Americans who had signed that document ; he replied that he 
 had not, but that the authors of the memorial need expect no more favors from 
 him. Not being one of the authors, hut merely a signer of the petition, I did not 
 come under the ban of the company, consequently I obtained my outfit for the 
 expedition, though at first there were strong indications that I would be refused." 
 
 To the honor of Dr. McLaughlin be it said, that how- 
 ever great the provocation, he never avenged his injuries 
 upon the American settlers, by refusing to aid them in 
 their times of want or peril. -^^^ 
 
 Arrived at the Dalles, the Indian agent tarried only long 
 enough to inquire into the working of the system of laws 
 which he had persuaded them to accept on his previous 
 
DOIUO, THK WICKIJU IIALI' llUHHl). 
 
 :m 
 
 visit. Tlio report wliicli the Itulians luul to f,nvo wiis l)otli 
 nieliiiiclii)ly and aiiuising. According to Mr. IT.incs' Jo ir- 
 
 iiiil (if tlu- expedition: 
 
 '•Tlu^ cliii'is li;i(l fi)iiiiil niiiclMlilTiciilty in rnforciiii^ tli(! laws; in )miii.>*liinf:f 
 (Icliiiiim'nts, some of tlic Imli;iiis n-<istiii^ cvfii to tlu! point of tiui kiiit^. 'I'iio 
 {•liiil's wluj were iippcjintcil tlirouM;li the intliuMico of Dr. Wliili-, witi! ilcsirous 
 tJKit tlu'^f r(';:iil:itioiis shoiilil continia', cvidfiitlv Ix'Cimsi^ llicy |)liici'il llic people 
 uiuiiT tlicir iihsoliitc control, and jjavc tlifui the power to re;;nlate all their 
 iiittrcDiirse with tlio whites, and with the other Indian tribes. IJiit thi- other 
 iiilliuntial men, who were not in oOice, desired to know of Dr. White, of what 
 liiiKlif tlii.-< whippinjf system was }ioini,' to hv. to them. They said they were 
 ivilliiiu' it should continue, pr()vi(K'<l they were to receiver blankets, shins, and 
 [lints, as a reward for beinj^ whippe(L 'Jliey had been whipped a j^ood many 
 tiiiiis, and ihey had ;i;ot n()thin<^ Ibr it, and it had done them no jjocjd. if this 
 Mh' ol' things was to continue it was all good Ibr nothing, and they would throw 
 it all away. In reply they were tohl by the Doctor that we could not he de- 
 t.iined to settle any of their didiculties now, that wo were going farther intf) the 
 in'i rior, and were in a very great hurry, and that when wi; retin-ncd he would 
 iiiilcav.T to make all straight. But lie wished them to understand that they 
 mill nut expect pay for being flogged, when they deserved it. They laughed 
 luartily at the idea, and dispersed, giving us an opportunity to make aiTange- 
 niiiits fur the continuance of our journey." 
 
 On leaving the Dalles, Dr. White proceeded as rapidly 
 as possible, now with horses instead of boats, to the sta- 
 tion at Waiilatpu, where Mrs. Whitman and a Mr. Giger 
 of the mission were awaiting them with anxious expecta- 
 tion. Dr. White found quite as much uneasiness as he 
 liiul anticipated, and learned incidentally why he had been 
 counseled at Fort Vancouver not to attempt going among 
 the Indians. It appeared on investigation that a mischiev- 
 ous half-breed, named Dorio, son of the same Madame 
 Dorio who figures as a heroine in Irving's Astoria, being 
 well informed in Indian sentiments, and influential as an 
 interpreter among them, had wickedly inflamed the pas- 
 sions of the Indians by representing to them that it was 
 useless making farms and building houses, as in a short 
 time the whites would overrun their land, and destroy 
 everything, besides killing them. ._, _ 
 
328 
 
 YIHTT OF YELLOW-SEUPENT TO VANCOUVER, 
 
 T^ 
 
 'Ids evil counsel so well ngreed with what tliov 
 had seen and heard, and had reason to apprehend, tlmt 
 much excitement was the result. The Avarriors amoiiif 
 the Cay uses were eager to go to war at once, and exter- 
 minate all the white settlements on the Wallamot and 
 elsewhere. But the old nuvii counseled patience and 
 caution, advising a consultation with the Hudsu'^s Bay 
 Company, who liad always been their friends. They re- 
 membered the answer they had received, when on the 
 first breaking out of their fear of the Americans they had 
 gone to Fort Walla-Walla, to ask McKinley's o])inior, of 
 the expediency of driving the missionaries away from their 
 lands. "You are braves," said McKinley, "and thc'c are 
 manv of you. It would be c.sv to kill two men and two 
 women, and a, few little children. Go quickly and do it, if 
 you wish ; but remember if you do so, that 1 will have 
 you punished."' For that time the subject Avas dropped. 
 
 But now that their fears were thoroughly aroused, the 
 Cayuses resolved to send a messenger to Dr. McLaughlin 
 at Vancouver to inquire what had better be done in view 
 of their difficulties, and to take obsv^rvations in the lower 
 countr3^ for the Indians wei'e wel] aware that the -whites 
 had not been at peaije a,inong themselves, and that Foit 
 Vancouver had been strengthened in its defences, and had 
 had a go\ rnment vessel lying before it the previous win- 
 ter. Seeing that there seemed more unity between tlie 
 Hudson's Bay Company and the Americans, a new fear 
 entered into their minds lest they might combine against 
 tliem. 
 
 Full of su jh feelings, a WaUa-Walla chief, called Yellow- 
 Serpent, made a journey to Vancouver and opened his 
 lieart to Dr. McLaughlin. In answer to his inquiries the 
 Doctor assured him that there was nothing to apprehend 
 from any class of whites ; that he could not believe the 
 
A VISIT TO LAPWAI. 
 
 329 
 
 Americans had any warlike designs tow^ard tlicm, and that 
 if they should make war on them, they would not be joined 
 by the Hudson's Bay men. Comforted by the assurances 
 of tlio great white chief, Yellow-Serpent returned, and 
 reported to his people, and for a time tln^y were quiet, 
 ami worked at their little plantations, as ttraght them ])j 
 Dr. Wliitman. 
 
 As wo have seen it was but a brief lull in the rising tem- 
 pest. The wicked Dorio still continued to poison their 
 niiiids, and to stir up all the native suspiciousness and jeal- 
 ousy of the Indian character. Thus it happened that on 
 Dr. While's arrival they were full of mutiny, as difficult of 
 approach as in the preceding autumn. However, Dr. 
 White, witli Mr. Hines, Mi's. Whitman and Mr. Giger, 
 made many friendly advances, and a meeting was finally 
 appointed to take place after the agent had first made a 
 vLsit to the Nez Perces. v-.- - 
 
 The Nez Percei were found to have remembered their 
 promises, and to L.ive continued to profit by the instruc- 
 tions of their teachers. They received the agent in a cor- 
 dial manner, entertaining hhn and his friends with a re- 
 hearsal of a late battle with the Blackfeet in which they 
 had been victorious. Arrangements were then made for 
 jlr. S|)alding, Ellis, and several hundreds of men, women 
 and children to visit Waiilatpu in company with the Doc- 
 tor, as the Cayuses would agree to nothing without first 
 consulting with the chief of the Nez Perces. 
 
 Nor were they all inclined to receive the agent hospita- 
 bly, even in company with Ellis. The reception was 
 conducted in the usual style of Indian welcome, by first 
 exhibiting their warlike accomplishments in a sham battle, 
 so well fought and life-like in its representation that even 
 Olis was almost persuaded some real fighting would follow. 
 The (wcitemeiit was finally allayed by Mr. Spalding pro- 
 
p» 
 
 330 
 
 THE CONFERENCE AT WAIILATPU. 
 
 posing to afljonin. to the house of worship for eveniiiff 
 prayers, after which the people scattered to their lodges 
 to await the meeting of the next day. 
 
 On the following morning the chiefs came together at 
 Dr. Whitman's, and Dr. White addressed them. He assured 
 them that if they feared war on the part of the whites 
 they were quite mistaken ; that the Great Father of the 
 whites had not sent him among them for that purpose, but 
 to come to some understanding about their future inter- 
 course. He promised them that if they would lay aside 
 their former practices, as they had been instructed by the 
 missionaries to do, leave oif feuds among themselves, and 
 cultivate the land, they might become a great and happy 
 people. He counseled unity between the chiefs, and con- 
 sideration and kindness towards the people, and also coun- 
 seled the people to obey the chiefs, and love and pray for 
 them. ■ !v •> 
 
 The subject of the laws was then brought forward, and 
 the young men were exhorted to accept and keep them, 
 that when they became chiefs their people might obey 
 them. The laws were then read both in English and Nez 
 Perce, when the Wall a- Walla chief, Yellow-Serpent, arose 
 and said : 
 
 " 1 have a message to you. Where are these laws 
 from ? Are they from God, or from the earth ? I would 
 you might say they were from God. But I think they are 
 from the earth, because, what I know of white men, they 
 do not honor these laws." A short speech, and to the 
 point. 
 
 When it was explained to him that in all civilized coun- 
 tries men were bound to honor the laws, he replied that 
 he was " glad to learn that it was so, because many of 
 his people had been angry with him when he had whipped 
 them for crime, and had told him that God would send 
 
THE LAWS ACCEPTED — A GRAND TREAT. 
 
 331 
 
 him to bell for it, and he was glad to know that it was 
 iiot displeasing to God." 
 
 Other chiefs then spoke in turn, one favoring the adop- 
 tion of the laws, another rejecting, and giving as a reason 
 that the chief in favor was a Catholic ; to which Doctor 
 White replied that religious belief had nothing to do with 
 the making or keeping of laws. And after this an old 
 chief, who had seen Lewis and Clarke when they were in 
 the country, spoke of the treaty made with them ; adding 
 that " ever since that time people had been coming along 
 and promising lO do them good; but that they had all 
 |)asse<l by and left no blessing behind them. That the 
 Hudson's Bay Company had persuaded theui to keep good 
 friends with them, and to let the Americans alone. But 
 if the Americans designed to do good to them, why did 
 they not bring goods with them to leave with their peo- 
 ple. They were fools to listen to the promises of the 
 Americans; they only would talk, while the Hudson's 
 Bay Company gave presents." In reply to which begging 
 speech the Doctor reminded them that his business with 
 them was that neither of missionary or trader. , 
 
 After a day spent in listening to and answering speech- 
 es the meeting adjourned. In the evening the Nez Perce 
 chief, Ellis, and his associate Sawyer, held a talk with Dr. 
 White in which they demanded a salary, as chiefs ; and 
 thought that they wore already entitled to enough to 
 malce them wealthy. So avaricious is the Indian in all his 
 feelings and pursuits. 
 
 On the day follov/ing the speeches were resumed, the 
 laws linally accepted, and the Catholic chief Tan-i-tan was 
 elected to the office of head chief, but resigned it the 
 next day in favor of his brother Five-Crows, because, as 
 he said, his religion differed from that of most of his na- 
 tion, and Five-Crows would be more agreeable to them. 
 
 i i 
 
332 
 
 THE MISSIONARIES WARNED. 
 
 His decision proved liis wisdom as well as his generosity; 
 for the people declared themselves delighted with tlie 
 change, tliough they had nothing against Tan-i-tan. 
 
 At the conclusion of each day the Indians had been 
 feasted wnth fat beef and pork, obtained from the mission; 
 and on the last day a grand feast was spread, to which Dr. 
 White's party were invited, and at which, contrary to In- 
 dian custom, the women w^ere permitted to appear and 
 partake ; Dr. White having made this a special request, 
 and furnished them with new dresses for the occasion. 
 After this happy conclusion of business in the Indian 
 country. Dr. White appointed his leave-taking for the next 
 morning. Mrs. Whitman, who had been an anxious and in- 
 terested spectator of events, notwithstanding the amicable 
 termination of the agent's efibrts, thought it prudent to 
 return with his part}?- to the lower country until the time 
 approached for her husband's return. Better for both had 
 they never returned to Waiilatpu. Many were the war- 
 nings which those missionaries had, and disregarded. 
 Many times had the Indians said to them " we do not 
 wish to go to war, but if the Americans come to take away 
 our lands, and reduce us to a state of vassalage, we will 
 fight so long as we have a drop of blood." Yet no one 
 more than Dr. Whitman, did everything in his power to 
 encourage the settlement of the country. He was an en- 
 thusiast in the cause of the American occupation of Ore- 
 gon ; and like many another, in all the great questions of 
 time, his enthusiasm won for him only the crown of a 
 martyr. ■ ^or.iiB^ 
 
 Dr. White remained some time at the Dalles, on his re- 
 turn, endeavoring to bring the Indians into a cheerful sub- 
 jection to the laws that had been given them. The suc- 
 cess of the Doctor's labors may be pretty correctly esti- 
 mated from events which will hereafter be related. 
 
 A'.': 
 
^rmmfimmft^ 
 
 THE IMMIGRATION OF 1843. 
 
 333 
 
 CHAPTER XXYII. 
 
 The immigration into Oregon of the year 1843, was 
 the lirst since Newell and Mrek, who had brought wagons 
 through to the Columbia River ; and in all numbered 
 nearly nine hundred men, women, and children. These 
 immigrants were mostly from Missouri and other border 
 States. They had been assisted on their long and peril- 
 ous journey by Dr. Whitman, whose knowledge of the 
 route, and the requirements of the undertaking, made him 
 ;in invalualjlc counselor, as he was an untiring friend of 
 the innnigrants. 
 
 At the Dalles of the Columbia the wagons were aban- 
 doned ; it being too late in the season, and the wants of 
 the immigrants too pressing, to admit of an effort being 
 made to cut out a wagon road through the heavy timber 
 of the Cascade mountains. Already a trail had been made 
 over them and around the base of Mount Hood, by which 
 cattle could be driven from the Dalles to the settlements 
 on the Wallamet ; and by this route the cattle belonging to 
 the train, amounting to thirteen hundred, were passed 
 over into the valley. 
 
 But for the people, especially the women and children, 
 active and efficient help was demanded. There was some- 
 thing truly touching and pitiable in the appearance of these 
 hundreds of worn-out, ragged, sun-burnt, dusty, emaciated, 
 yet indomitable pioneers, who, after a journey of nearly 
 two thousand miles, and of several months duration, over 
 
 
pp* 
 
 334 PITIABLE CONDITION OF THE WOMEN AND CHlLDRra. 
 
 fertile plains, barren deserts, and rugged mountains, stood 
 at last beside the grand and beautiful river of theiv hopes, 
 exhausted by the toils of their pilgrimage, dejected and 
 yet rejoicing. 
 
 Much they would have liked to rest, even here ; but 
 their poverty admitted of no delay. The friends to 
 whom they were going, and from whom they must exact 
 and receive a temporary hospitality, were still separated 
 from them a weary and dangerous way. They delayed as 
 little as possible, yet the fall rains came upon them, and 
 snow fell in the mountains, so as seriously to impede the 
 labor of driving the cattle, and hunger and sickness began 
 to affright them. 
 
 In this unhappy situation they might have remained a 
 long time, had there been no better dependence than the 
 American settlers already in the valley, with the Metho- 
 dist Mission at their head ; for from them it does not ap- 
 pear that aid came, nor that any provision had been made 
 by them to assist the expected immigrants. As usual in 
 these crises, it was the Hudson's Bay Company who came 
 to the rescue, and, by the offer of boats, made it possible 
 for those Jlimilies to reach the Wallamet. Not only were 
 the Hudson's Bay Company's boats all required, but canoes 
 and rafts were called into requisition to transport passen- 
 gers and goods. No one, never having made the voyage 
 of the Columbia from above the Dalles to Vancouver, 
 could have an adequate idea of the perils of the passage, 
 as it was performed in those days, by small boats and the 
 flat-bottomed "Mackinaw" boats of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company. The Canadian " voyageurs," who handled a 
 boat as a good rider governs a horse, were not always 
 able to make the passage without accident : how, then, 
 could the clumsy landsmen, who were more used to the 
 feel of a plow handle than an oar, be expected to do so? 
 
PERILS OF THE COLUMniA, 
 
 335 
 
 Numerous have been the victims suddenly clutched from 
 life by the grasp of the whirlpools, or dashed to death 
 among the fearful rapids of the beautiful, but wild and 
 pitiless, Columbia. 
 
 The immigration of 1843 did not escape without loss 
 and bereavement. Three brothers from IMissouri, by the 
 name of Applegate, with their families, were descending 
 the river together, when, by the striking of a boat on a 
 rock in the rapids, a number of passengers, mostly child- 
 ren of these gentlemen, were precipitated into the fright- 
 ful current. The brothers each had a son in this boat, 
 one of whom was lost, another injured for life, and the 
 third escaped as by a miracle. This last boy was only 
 ton years of age, yet such was the presence of mind and 
 courage displayed in saving his own and a companion's 
 life, that the miracle of his escape might be said to be his 
 own. Being a good swimmer, he kept himself valiantly 
 above the surface, while being tossed about for nearly two 
 miles. Succeeding at last in grasping a feather bed which 
 was floating near him, he might have passed the remain- 
 ing rapids without serious danger, had he not been seized, 
 as it were, by the feet, and drawn down, down, into a 
 seething, turning, roaring abyss of water, where he was 
 hold, whirling about, and dancing up and down, striking 
 now and then upon the rocks, until death seemed not 
 only imminent but certain. After enduring this violent 
 whirling and dashing for what seemed a hopelessly long 
 period of timic, he was suddenly vomited forth by the 
 whirlpool once more upon the surface of the rapids, and, 
 notwithstanding the bruises he had received, was able, by 
 great exertion, to throw himself near, and seize upon a 
 ledge of rocks. To this he clung with desperation, until, 
 by dint of much effort, he finally drew himself out of the 
 ^ater, and stretched himself on the narrow shelf, where, 
 22 
 
 ■m 
 
 I 
 
336 
 
 WONDERFUL ESCAPE OF YOUNG ArPLEGATE. 
 
 for a moment, ho swooned away. But on opening his 
 eyes, lie beheld, struggling in the foaming flood, a youii<' 
 man who had been a passenger in the wreeked boat with 
 himself, and who, though older, was not so good a swim- 
 mer. Calling to him with all his might, to make his voice 
 heard above the roar of the rapids, he at last gained his 
 attention, and encouraged him to try to reach the lodge 
 of rocks, where he would assist him to climb up ; and the 
 almost impossible feat was really accomplishe*! by their 
 united eflbrts. This done, young Applegate sank again 
 into momentary unconsciousness, while poor exhausted 
 Nature recruited her forces. 
 
 But, although they were saved from immediate destruc- 
 tion, death still stared them in the face. That side of tlie 
 river on which they had found lodgment, was bounded 
 by precipitous mountains, coming directly down to the 
 water. They could neither ascend nor skirt along them, 
 for foot-hold there v/as none. On the other side was level 
 ground, but to reach it they must pass through the rapids 
 — an alternative that looked like an assurance of destruc- 
 tion. 
 
 In this extremity, it was the boy who resolved to risk 
 his life to save it. Seeing that a broken ledge of rock 
 extended nearly across the river from a point within his 
 reach, but only coming to the surface here and there, and 
 of course very slippery, he nevertheless determined to at- 
 tempt to cross on foot, amidst the roaring rapids. Starting 
 alone to make the experiment, he actuall}' made the cross- 
 ing in safety, amid ihe thundering roar and dizzying rush 
 of waters — not only made it once, but returned to assure 
 his companion of its practicability. The young man, how- 
 ever, had not the courage to undertake it, until he had 
 repeat' dly been urged to do so, and at last only by being 
 pursuaded to go before, while his younger comrade fol- 
 
\TE. 
 
 opening bis 
 J(l, a yuuiig 
 1 boat with 
 )od a swim- 
 kc his voice 
 gained his 
 li tho ledge 
 p ; and the 
 ed by their 
 ! sank again 
 ' exliausted 
 
 ate destruc- 
 ; side of the 
 as bounded 
 own to the 
 dong them, 
 Ic was level 
 1 the rapids 
 of destruc- 
 
 ved to risk 
 ige of rock 
 within his 
 I there, and 
 iiined to at- 
 Starting 
 e the cross- 
 zzying rush 
 d to assure 
 r man, how- 
 til he had 
 ly by being 
 omrade fol- 
 
 m 
 
 
 !■•* 
 
 4 
 
 ■^W*^ 
 
 1%, 
 
TRIALS OF THK NEW C0L0NI8TS. 
 
 337 
 
 lowod after, not to lose si^ht of liim, (for it was impos- 
 sihle to turn around,) and diroct(Ml him where to place 
 his steps. In this manner that which appears incredible 
 WHS accomplished, and the two arrived in safety on the 
 ()]»i)osite side, where they, were ultimately discovered by 
 their distressed relatives, who had believed them to be 
 lost Such was the battle which young Applegate had 
 with the rocks, that the flesh was torn from the palms of 
 his hands, and his whole body bruised and lacerated. 
 
 So it was with sorrow, after all, that the immigrants 
 arrived in the valley. Nor were their trials over when 
 tliey had arrived. The worst feature about this long and 
 cxhiHisting journey was, that it could not be accomplished, 
 so as to allow time for recruiting the strength of the trav- 
 elers, and providing them with shelter before the rainy 
 season set in. Either the new arrivals must camp out in 
 the Aveather until a log house was thrown up, or they 
 must, if they were invited, crowd into the small cabins 
 of the settlers until there was scarce standing room, and 
 thus live for months in an atmosphere which would have 
 bred pestilence in any other less healthful climate. 
 
 Not only was the question of domiciles a trying one, 
 but that of food still more so. Some, who had families 
 of boys to help in the rough labor of building, soon be- 
 came settled in houses of their own, more or less com- 
 fortable ; nor was anything very commodious required 
 for the frontiers-men from Missouri ; but in the matter of 
 something to eat, the more boys there were in the family, 
 the more hopeless the situation. They had scarcely man- 
 aged to bring with them provisions for their summer's 
 journey — it was not possible to bring more. In the 
 colony was food, but they had no money — few of them 
 had much, at least ; they had not goods to exchange ; 
 labor was not in demand : in short, the first winter in 
 
 .^1 
 
 f-: [ I 
 
 
 w 
 
338 
 
 THE OKNKROUS SAVAGE, 
 
 Oregon was, to nearly all the new colonists, a time of 
 trial, if not of actual Huflbring. Many families now occu- 
 pying positions of eminence on the Pacific coast, knew 
 what it was, in those early days, to feel the pangs of 
 hunger, and to want for a sufficient covering for their 
 nakedness. 
 
 Two anecdotes of this kind come to the writer's mem- 
 ory, as related by the parties themselves : the Indians, 
 who are everywhere a begging race, were in the habit of 
 visiting the houses of the settlers and demanding food. 
 On one occasion, one of them came to the house of a now 
 prominent citizen of Oregon, as usual petitioning for some- 
 thing to eat. The lady of the house, and mother of sev- 
 eral young children, replied that she had nothing to give. 
 Not liking to believe her, the Indian persisted in his de- 
 mand, when the lady pointed to her little children and 
 said, "Go away; I have nothing — not even for those." 
 The savage turned on his heel and strode quickly away, 
 as the lady thought, offended. In a short time he reap- 
 peared with a sack of dried venison, which he laid at her 
 feet. "Take that," he said, "and give the tenas tillkum 
 (little children) something to eat." From that day, as 
 long as he lived, that humane savage was a " friend of the 
 family. 
 
 The other anecdote concerns a gentleman who was 
 chief justice of Oregon under the provisional govern- 
 ment, afterwards governor of California, and at present a 
 banker in San Francisco. He lived, at the time spoken 
 of, on the Tualatin Plains, and was a neighbor of Joe 
 Meek. Not having a house to go into at first, he was per- 
 mitted to settle his family in the district school-house, 
 with the understanding that on certain days of the month 
 he was to allow religious services to be held in the build- 
 ing. In this he assented. Meeting day came, and the 
 
THE IlAIMC-FOOTKn I WVYER. 
 
 339 
 
 family put on tlioir best a];)f)iirol to make tliomsclvos tidy 
 ill tho eyes of th(;ir noighbora Only one (lilliculty wiis 
 
 hard to get over : Mr. had oidy one shoe, tlie otlier 
 
 foot was bare. But ho considered tho matter for some 
 time, and tlien resolved that he mij^dit take a sheltered 
 position behind the teacher's desk, where his deficiency 
 would be hidden, and when the house lillt'd up, as it 
 would do very rapidly, he could not be expected to stir 
 for want of space. However, that happened to the ambi- 
 tions young lawyer which often does happen to the " best 
 laid schemes of mice and men" — his went "all aglee." 
 In the midst of the services, the speaker needed a cup of 
 
 water, and requested Mr, to furnish it. Tlusre was 
 
 no refusing so reasonable a request. Out before all the 
 congregation, walked the abashed and blushing i)ioneer, 
 with his ill-matched feet exposed to view. This mortify- 
 ing exposure was not without an agreeable result ; for 
 next day he received a present of a pair of moccasins, 
 and was enabled thereafter to appear with feet that bore 
 a brotherly resemblance to each other. 
 
 About this time, the same gentleman, who was, as has 
 been said, a neighbor of Meck's, was going to Wallamet 
 Falls with a wagon, and Meek was going along. "Take 
 something to eat," said he to ^feek, " for I have nothing;" 
 and Meek promised that he would. 
 
 Accordingly when it came time to camp for the night. 
 Meek Avas requested to produce his lunch basket. Going 
 to the wagon. Meek unfolded an immense pumpkin, and 
 brought it to the fire. 
 
 "What!" exclaimed Mr. , "is that all we have for 
 
 Slipper ?" 
 
 " Roast pumpkin is not so bad," said Meek, laughing 
 back at him ; " I've had worse fare in the mountains. 
 It's buffalo tongue compared to ants or moccasin soles." 
 
 V. 
 
 ' 
 
 *■ } 
 
 - 
 
 i 
 
 
mm 
 
 340 
 
 SHOPPING UNDEK DIFFICULTIES. 
 
 And Si. with much merriment they proceeded to cut up 
 their puriipk'" and roast it, linding it as Meek had said— 
 '^not so bad" when there was no better. 
 
 Those anecdotes illustrate what a volume could only do 
 scribe — the perils and privations endured by the colonists 
 in Oregon, If we add that there were only two flouring 
 mills in the Walhimet Valley, and these two not conven- 
 ient for most of the settlers, both belonging to the mis- 
 si(m, and that to get a few bushels of wheat ground in- 
 volved the taking of a journey of from four to six days, 
 for many, and that, too, over half-broken roads, destitute 
 of bridges, it will be seen how difficult it was to obtain 
 the commonest comforts of life. As for such luxuries as 
 groceries and clothing, they had to wait for better times. 
 Lucky was the man who, "by hook or by crook," got 
 hold of an order on the Hudson's Bay Company, the 
 Methodist Mission, or the Milling Company at the Falls. 
 Were he thus fortunate, he had much ado to dende how 
 to make it go farthest, and obtain the most Not far 
 would it go, at the best, for fifty per cent, profit on all 
 sales was what was demanded and obtained. Perhaps the 
 holder of a ten dollar draft made out his list of ne(;essa- 
 ries, and presented himself at the store, expecting to get 
 them. He wanted some unbleached cotton, to be dyed to 
 make dresses for the children ; he would buy a pair of 
 calf-skin shoes if he could afford them ; and — yes — he 
 would indulge in the luxury of a little — a very little— 
 su?:ar, just for that once ! 
 
 Arrived at the store after a long, jolting journey, in 
 the farm wagon which had crossed the continent the year 
 before, he makes his inquiries : "Cotton goods?" "No; 
 just out." "Shoes?" "Got one pair, rather small— 
 wouldn't fit you." " What have you got in the way of 
 goods ?" " Got a lot of .«ilk handkerchiefs and twelve 
 
 ^iwfif':^; 
 
EDUCATION AND LITERARY SOCIETIES. 
 
 341 
 
 dozen straw lials." " Any pins ?" "No; a few knittinf^ 
 mrdlos/' "Any yarn?" "Yes, there's a pretty good 
 lot of yarn , but don't yon want some sugar? the last 
 ship tliat was in left a ^-lantity of sugar." So the holder 
 of the draft exchanges it for some yarn and a few nails, 
 and takes the balance in sugar . fairly conii)elled to be 
 luxuiious in one article, for the reason that others were 
 not to be had till some other ship came in. 
 
 No mails reached the colony, and no letters left it, ex- 
 cept such as were carried by private hand, or were sent 
 once a year in the Hudson's Bay Company's express to 
 Canada, and thence to the States. Newspapers arrived 
 in the same manner, or by vessel from the Sandwich 
 Inlands. Notwithstanding all these drawbacks, education 
 was encouraged even from the very beginning ; a library 
 was started, and literary societies formed, and this all the 
 iiioro. perhaps, that the colony was so isolated and depend- 
 ent on itself for intellectual pleasures. Such was the state 
 of the colony when the Indian Agent returned from the 
 upper country, when the Provisional Government was 
 foniK'd, and when the emigration arrived at the close of 
 1H43. 
 
 The spring of 1844 saw the colony in a state of some ex- 
 eI;oment on account of an attempt to introduce the manu- 
 facture of ardent spirits. This dangerous article had al- 
 ways been carefully excluded from the country, first by 
 die Hudson's Bay Company, and secondly by the Meth- 
 odist Mission ; and since the time when Ewing Young 
 had bi'en induced to relinquish its manufacture, no seri- 
 ous oifort had been made to introduce it. 
 
 It does not appear from the Oregon archives, that any 
 law against its manufacture existed at that time : it had 
 pn.bably been overlooked in the proceedings of the leg- 
 islative committee of the previous summer ; neither waa 
 
342 
 
 A (iUEAT CALAMITV TIIUEATENED. 
 
 there yd any executive liead to the Provisional Govern- 
 ment, the election not having taken jjlace. In this di- 
 lemma the pe(jple found themselves in the month of Ful> 
 ruary, when one James Conner had been discovered to be 
 erecting a distillery at the Falls of the Wallamot. 
 
 Now when Dr. White had so speedily returned from 
 the States, whither he had as speedily gone, after a few 
 months residence in Oregon, and a quarrel with the mis- 
 sion to which he was surgeon — with a commission from 
 the United States wliich he Avished to coust'''ie as confer- 
 ring on him the authority of governor of <" olony, his 
 pretentions were regarded as insuiferable, and he was 
 given to understand that he would do well to confine him- 
 self to his duties as Indian agent. There was a great deal 
 that was absurd about the whole matter, and the United 
 States had as little right to appoint an Indian agent as a 
 governor — neither being consistent with the terms of the 
 treaty of joint occupation. But it was not that question 
 which the settlers regarded ; t.hey were willing enough to 
 acknowledge the authority of the United States to do 
 anything ; and were constantly petitioning the govern- 
 ment to do those things which threatened to involve the 
 country in war; in which case they would doubtless have 
 been immediately exterminated ; for it only required a 
 hint to the Indians that the " King George men " and the 
 "Bostons" were at war, to bring them down upon the 
 settlers in one fell swoop. 
 
 What the colonists, and especially the mission, did not 
 like abcnit the matter, was Dr. White hiuvAvlf They 
 would have })een glad enough to have hnd a governor ap- 
 pointed ; bu'. there were other wkhv in and out of the 
 mission, more pleasing to them tKaw the Doctor for gov- 
 ernor ; and perhaps the movst pUMkx»^g man of all to each 
 one, was himself But a^* they v>>uKl not all be govern 
 
A DILEMMA — MEEK DEST1UJY8 TlIK DISTILLEHY. 
 
 343 
 
 ors, it \v;is decided at the meeting iii tiie previous July 
 thai ii Iriiiity of governors would answer their purpose, 
 1111(1 divide the honors. 
 
 It happened, however, that an occasion for the exer- 
 cise of executive power liad occurred before the election 
 of ilie executive committee, and now what was to be 
 tlidiey It was a case too, which required absolute power, 
 for tluM-e was no law on the subject of distilleries. After 
 Niiiu; deliberation it was decided to allow the Indian agent 
 temporary power, and several letters were addressed to 
 liiiii, informing him of the calamity which threatened the 
 c'Oiiiinunity at the Falls. " Now, wo believe that if there 
 is anything which calls your attention in your oHif^ial ca- 
 pacity, or anything in which you would be most cordially 
 supported by the good sense and prompt action of the 
 better part of community, it is the present case. We do 
 not wish to dictate, but we hope for the best, begging 
 pardon for intrusions." So read the closing paragraph 
 of one of the letters. 
 
 Perhaps this humble petition touched the Doctor's he<a*t ; 
 perhaps he saw in the circumstance a possible means of 
 acijiiiring influence; at all events he hastened to the Falls, 
 a distance of fifty miles, and entered at once upon the dis- 
 charge of the executive duties thus thrust upon hira in. 
 the hour of danger. Calling upon Meek, who had entered 
 upon his duties as sheriflF the previous summer, he gave 
 him his orders. Writ in hand, Meek proceeded to the 
 distillery, frightened the poor sinner into quiet submission 
 with a display of nis mountain manners ; madie a bugle of 
 the worm, and blew it, to announce to the Doctor his cora- 
 piote success ; after which he tumVded the distillery appa- 
 ratus into the river, and retired. Connor was put under 
 throe hundred dollar bonds, and so the case ended 
 
 But there were other occasions on which the Doctor's 
 
 '"-'" -"''•^- ' '■''''•rW^i 
 
344 ANECDOTE OF DR. WHITE AND MADAM COOPER. 
 
 autliority was put in roqnisition. It happened that a ves- 
 sel i'roin Australia had been in the river, and left one Mad 
 am Cooper, who was said to have brought w4th her a bar- 
 rel of whisky. Her cabin stood on the east bank of the 
 Wallamct, opposite the present city ot Portland. Nut 
 thinking it necessary to send the sheriiF to deal with a 
 woman, the Doctor went in person, accompanied by a 
 couple of men. Entering the cabin the Doctor remarked 
 blandly, " you have a barrel of whisky, I believe." 
 
 Not knowing but her visitor's intention was to purchase, 
 and not having previously resided in a strictly temperance 
 community, Madam Cooper replica . frankly that she had, 
 and pointed to the barrel in question. 
 
 The Doctor then stepped forward, and placing his foot 
 on it, said- "In the name of the United States, I levy 
 execution on it!" 
 
 At this unexpected declaration, the English woman 
 stared wildly one moment, then recovering herself quickly, 
 seized the poker from the chimney corner, and raising it 
 over the Doctor's head, exclaimed — ''In the name of 
 Great Britain, Ireland, and Scotland, I levy execution on 
 you!" 
 
 But when the stick descended, the Doctor was not there. 
 He had backed out at the cabin door ; nor did he after- 
 wards attempt to interfere with a subject of the crown of 
 Great Britain 
 
 On the following day, hov/ever, the story having got 
 afloat at the Falls, Meek and a young man highly esteem- 
 ed at the mission, by the name of Le Breton, set out to 
 pay their respects to Madam Cooper. Upon entering the 
 cabin, the two callers cast their eyes about until they 
 rested on the whiskv barrel. 
 
 ''Have you come to levy on my whisky?" inquired the 
 now suspicious Madam. 
 
PER. 
 
 A LEVI' ON WIIIBKY. 
 
 345 
 
 that a vos- 
 ft one Mad- 
 her a bar- 
 tuik of the 
 land. Nut 
 loiil with a 
 mied by a 
 :' remarked 
 ve." 
 
 3 purchase, 
 lemperance 
 at she hud, 
 
 ng his foot 
 :es, I levy 
 
 , - . . i 
 
 ish woman 
 ill quickly, 
 1. raising it 
 ; name of 
 :ecutiou on 
 
 s not tfiere. 
 id he after- 
 [3 crown 01 
 
 laving got 
 ily esteem- 
 , set out to 
 titering the 
 until they 
 
 "Yes," said Meek, "I have come to levy on it; Init as 
 I am not quite so high in authority as Doctor White, I 
 (Idii't intend to levy on the whole of it at once. I think 
 ahout a (piart ox it will do me." 
 
 Comprehending by the twinkle in Meek's eye that she 
 had now a customer more to her mind, Madam Coo})er 
 made haste to set before her visitors a bottle and tin cup, 
 upon which invitation they proceded to levy frequently 
 upon the contents of the bottle ; and we fear that the 
 icni^th of time spent there, and the amount of whisky 
 (hank must have strongly reminded Meek of past rendez- 
 vous times in the mountains ; nor can we doubt that he 
 entei'tained Le Breton and Madam Cooper with many rem- 
 iniscences of those times. However that may be, this 
 \vas not the last visit of Meek to Madam Cooper's, nor his 
 last levy on her whisky. 
 
 The sheriff, despite his natural antagonism to what is 
 usually denominated the better portion cf the community," 
 or putting it more correctly, despite their antagonism to 
 h'm, on account of his mountain ways and Indian vfife, 
 was becoming a man of note amongst them. They might 
 ilenominate him amongst themselves as " old Joe Meek " 
 at thirty-four years of age, because he cared nothing what- 
 ever for their pious prejudices, and broke througii their 
 s)kMnn prohibitions as if they had been ropes of sand ; 
 ct when courage and firmness were required to get them 
 mt of a difficulty, they appealed deferentially enough to 
 Mr. Meek." 
 
 Shortly after his election as sheriff he had been called 
 pen to serve a writ upon a desperate character, for an 
 tttempt to kill. Many persons, hoAvever, fearing the re- 
 sult of trying to enforce the law upon desperadoes, in the 
 llieo defenceless condition of the <x>lony, advised him to 
 wait for the imiuigration to come in beforo attempting the 
 
 »>■' !' 
 
34G 
 
 FIRST OFFICIAL ACT OF THE SHRRIFF. 
 
 arrest. But Meek preferred to do his duty then, and wont 
 ■with the writ to arrest him. The man resisted, iiiakinrr 
 an attack on the sherifll' witli a carpenter's axe ; but Aleok 
 coolly presented a pistol, assuring the culprit of the use- 
 lessness of such demonstrations, and soon brought him to 
 terms of compliance. Such coolness, united with a fine 
 physi(pio, and a mountain-man's reputation for recklo<^ 
 courage, made it very desira])le that Meek should con- 
 tinue to hold the office of sherill during that stage of the 
 colony's development. 
 
EXCITEMENT AMONG THE SETTLERS. 
 
 347 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 J!' 
 
 1844. As has before been mentioned, the Indians of 
 the Wallamct valley were by no means so formidaljle as 
 those of the npper country : vet considering tlioir nuni- 
 hers and the condition of tho settlers, they were quite for- 
 midable enough to occasion considerable alarm when any 
 one of them, or any nurube c '>r them betrayed the savage 
 ]i;i-sions by which they were tein])orarily overcome. Con- 
 jiJerable excitement had prevailed among the more scat- 
 tered settlers, ever since the reports of the disaffection 
 among the up-country tribes had reached them ; and Dr. 
 Will' id been importuned to throw up a strong fortifi- 
 catioh 111 the most central part of the colony, and to pio- 
 eure arms for their defence, at the expense of the United 
 States. 
 
 This excitement had somewhat subsided when an event 
 occurred which for a time renewed it: a house was plun- 
 dered and some horses stolen from the neighborhood of 
 the Falls. An Indian from the Dalles, named Cockstock^ 
 was at the bottom of the mischief, and had been commit- 
 ting or instigating others to commit depredations upon the 
 settlers, for a year previous, because he had been, as he 
 fancied, badly treated in a matter between himself and a 
 negro in the colony, in which the latter had ■ aken an un- 
 fair advantage of him in a Vjargain. 
 
 To crown his injuries Dr. White had caused a relative 
 of his to be flogged by the Dalles chief, for entering the 
 
 III 
 
348 
 
 INDIAN REVENGE RAID OF THE KLAMATH8. 
 
 house of the Methodist missionary at that place, and tyinc 
 liiiii, with the purpose of flogging him. (It was a poor 
 hiw, he thought, that would not work both ways.) 
 
 In revenge for this insult Cockstock came to the Doc- 
 tor's house in the Wallaniet, threatening to shoot him al 
 sight, but not linding him at home, contented himself 
 for that time, by smashing all the windows in the dwell- 
 ing and ofllce of the Doctor, and nearly liightening to 
 death a young man on the premises. 
 
 When on the Doctor's return in the evening, the extent 
 of the outrage became known, a party set out in pursuit 
 of Cockstock and his band, but Allied to overtake thcni, 
 and the settlers remained in ignorance concerning the 
 identity of the marauders. About a month later, how- 
 ever, a party of Klamath and Molalla Indians from the 
 south of Oregon, numbering fifteen, came riding into the 
 settlement, armed and painted in true Indian war-style, 
 They made their way to the lodge of a Calapooya chief 
 in the neighborhood — the Calapooyas being the Indians 
 native to the valley. Dr. White fearing these mischiev- 
 ous visitors might infect the mind of the Calapooya chief, 
 stmt a message to him, to bring his friends to call upon 
 him in the morning, as he had something good to say to 
 them. 
 
 This they did, when Dr. White explained the laws of the 
 Nez Perces 1 » them, and loki them how much it would he 
 to their advn tage to adopt such laws. He gave the Cal- 
 apooya chief a tine fat ox to feast his friends with, well 
 knowing that an Indian's humor depends much on the 
 state of his stonnich, whether shrunken or distended. Af 
 ter the feast there was some more talk about the laws, in 
 the midst of which the Indian Cockstock made his appear 
 ance, armed, and sullen in his demeanor. But as Dr. 
 White did not know him for the perpetrator of the out- 
 
MASSACHK OF UNDIAXS. 
 
 U9 
 
 ni^'c on his preinisos, he took no notice of him more tlian 
 of ihe otlu'i's. The Mohillas and Khuuuths finally a;j;rc(Hl to 
 receive the laws; departing in high good hnmor, singing 
 1111(1 shouting. So little may one know of the navage 
 
 liiMit Irdin the savage professions! Some of these In- 
 (liiius were boiling over with secret wrath at the weakness 
 of ilicir brethren in consenting to laws of the Agent's dic- 
 liitidii; and while they were crossing a stream, fell upon 
 and iTiassacrcd them without mercy, Cockstock taking an 
 active part in the murder. 
 
 The whites were naturally much excited by the villianous 
 and horrible affray, and were for taking and hanging the 
 iiiunlorers. The Agent, however, was more cautious, and 
 learning that there had been feuds among these Indians 
 long unsettled, decided not to interfere. 
 
 Ill February, 1844, fresh outrages on settlers having 
 been committed so that some were leaving their claims 
 and coming to stop at the Falls through fear. Dr. White 
 was petitioned to take the case in hand. He accordingly 
 raised a party of ten men, who had nearly all suffered 
 some loss or outrage at Cockstor-liV hands, and set out in 
 search of him, but did not succeed in finding him. His 
 next step was to offer a reward of a hundred dollars for 
 his arrest, meaning to send hira to the upper country to 
 be tried and punished by the Cayuse'3 and Nez Perces, the 
 Doctor prudently desiring to have them bear the odium, 
 and suffer the punishment, should any follow, of executing 
 justice on the Indian desperado. Not so had the fates or- 
 dained. 
 
 About a week after the reward was offered, Cockstock 
 came riding into the settlement at the Falls, at mid-day, 
 accompanied by five other Indians, all well armed, and 
 fright fully painted. Going from house to house on their 
 horses, they exhibited their pistols, and by look and ges- 
 
 2- S- 
 
350 AFI'UAY AT THE FALLS — DEATH OF COCKSTOCK. 
 
 tiii'o socmod to defy the settlers, who, however, kept quiol 
 througli ])rii(lenti{il motives. Not siiecoediiig in provok- 
 ing' th(! wliilcs to commoncc the fray, Cockstock finally re- 
 tired to an Indian villa^a* on the other side of the river 
 where he labored to get np an insnrrection, and procure 
 the burning of the settlement houses. 
 
 Meantime the people at the Falls were thoroughly 
 alai'm(;d, and bent u\)()n the capture of this desperate sav- 
 age. When, after an absence of a few hours, they saw 
 him reerossing the river with his party, a crowd of per- 
 sons ran down to the landing, some with oflers of large 
 reward to any person who would attempt to take him, 
 while others, more courageous, were determined upon 
 earning it. No definite plan of capture or concert of ac- 
 tion was decided on, but all was confusion and doubt. In 
 this frame of mind a collision was sure to take place ; both 
 the whites and Indians firing at the moment of landing. 
 Mr. LeBreton, the young man mentioned in the previous 
 chapter, after firing ineffectually, rushed unarmed upon 
 Cockstock, whose pistol was also empty, but who still had 
 his knife. In the struggle both fell to the ground, when 
 a mulatio man, who had wrongs of his own to avenge, ran 
 up and struck Cockstock a blow on the head with the butt 
 of his gun which dispatched him at once. 
 
 Thus the colony was rid of a scourge, yet not without 
 lo.ss which counterbalanced the gain. Young LeBreton 
 besides having his arm shattered by a ball, was wounded 
 by a poisoned arrow, which occasioned his death; and 
 Mr. Rogers, another esteemed citizen, died »from the same 
 cause ; while a third was seriously injured by a slight 
 wound from a poisoned arrow. As for the five friends of 
 C"»ckstock, they escaped to the bluffs overlooking the set- 
 tlement, and commenced firing down upon the people. 
 But fire-arms were mustered sufficient to dislodge them, 
 
HKTTLKMKXT OK TlIK IUFFICIUMV. 
 
 3.n 
 
 and thus tho alTair (Midori; oxcopt that tho Ap^ont had 
 smiio trouble to sotlle it with tlic Dalles Indijins. who carno 
 ,l(,\vii in-a body to demand payment for the h).s8 of their 
 Kidtlicr. After mueh talk and ex})lanation, a ])resent to 
 the widow of the dead Indian was made to smooth over 
 the (lillieulty. 
 
 Meek, who at i\w time of tho eollision was raftint]^ tim- 
 ber for Dr. AfeLaughlin's mill at the Falls, as might have 
 been expected was appealed to in the melee by eitizens 
 wiu) knew less about Indian fighting. 
 
 A ])rominent citizen and merchant, who probably sel- 
 dom spoke of him as Mr. Meek, came running to him in 
 irrcat alTright:— "Mr. Meek! Mr. Meek! Mr. Meek!— I 
 want to send my wife down to Vancouver. Can you as- 
 sist me? Do you think the Indians will take tho town?" 
 
 "It '])ears like half-a-dozen Injuns might do it," retorted 
 Me 'k, going on with his Avoik. 
 
 ''What do you think we had better do, Mr. Meek? — 
 What do you advise ?" 
 
 "I think yoii'd better run." 
 
 In all dilTicuIties between the Indians and settlers. Meek 
 usually refrained from taking sides — especially from taking 
 sides against the Indians. For Indian slayer as he had 
 once been when a ranger of the mountains, he had too 
 much compassion for the poor wretches in the Wallamet 
 ' ,i'! y, as well as too much knowledge of the savage na- 
 ture, 'o like to make unnecessary war upon them. Had 
 'lo I'cen sent to take Cockstock, very probably he would 
 have done it with little uproar ; for he had sufficient influ- 
 ence among the Calapooyas to have enlisted them in the 
 undertaking. But this was the Agent's business and he 
 let him manage it ; for Meek and the Doctor were not in 
 love with one another ; one was solemnly audacious, the 
 other mischievously so. Of the latter sort of audacity, 
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352 
 
 SOLEMN AUDACITY AMBITIOUS DESIGNS. 
 
 here is an example. Meek wanted a liorse to ride out to 
 the Plains where his family were, and not knowing how 
 else to obtain it, helped himself to one belonging to Dr. 
 White ; which presumption greatly incensed the Doctor, 
 and caused him to threaten vrrious punishments, hanging 
 among the rest. But the Indians overhearing him replied 
 
 " Wake 71 ilea caintux — You dare not. — You no put rope 
 round Meek's neck. lie tyee (chief) — no hang him." 
 
 Upon which the Doctor thought better of it, and having 
 vented his solemn audacity, received smiling audacity with 
 apparent good humor when he came to restore the bor- 
 rowed horse. -- /itrifp*..!; 
 
 While Indian affairs occupied so much of the attention 
 of the colony, other topics of interest were not overlooked, 
 and colonial politics were as jealously guarded as ever by 
 the American party. The unique form of government hit 
 upon by the genius of the American people, which con- 
 sisted of a legislative committe who might frame laws for 
 the people to vote upon at the ensuing election, and an 
 executive committee, equally under the control of the peo- 
 ple, promised to prove a success However, that passion 
 by which " the angels fell," did not sleep in Oregon more 
 than in other portions of the globe, and there were those 
 in the legislative committee for 1844, and in the executive 
 committee also, who were revolving in their minds the ques- 
 tion of an independent government ; that is, a govemmeut 
 owning no allegiance either to the United States or Great 
 Britain, but which should lay the foundations of empire ou 
 the Pacific coast. 
 
 The first message of the executive committee recom- 
 mended the vesting of the executive power in a single 
 individual, the appointment of several judges, and d gen- 
 eral amendment of the organization with a view to increas- 
 ing its strength. It was also decided this year to increase 
 the legislative committee, so that it should number no less 
 
^^r 
 
 %'t 
 
 NEGFiOES AND LIQUOR INTEUDICTBD. 
 
 353 
 
 than tliii'tcon, nor more than sixty members. An assessor 
 was appointed as a preliminary measure to imposing taxes: 
 an act passed to exclude slavery from Oregon, and also an 
 act to prevent the manufacture or sale of intoxicating 
 drinks. On the two latter acts the people were generally 
 very well agreed, seeing that temperance was necessary to 
 the preservation of the colony; and the majority favoring 
 the exclusion of negroes from Oregon. That there should 
 have been so general a sentiment against the introduction 
 of blacks seems rather remarkable, when it is remembered 
 that a large proportion of the settlers were from the bor- 
 der slave states. Perhaps, having experienced the disad- 
 vantages of being " poor whites " in a slave-holding com- 
 munity, and being without the means of procuring slaves, 
 they resolved to prevent any future influx of slave-holders, 
 who should reduce them to the condition of "poor whites" 
 in the country of their adoption. So fearful were they 
 that the negro element might be introduced into their so- 
 cial and political affairs that it was made an offence even 
 for a free negro to be found in the territory, for which of- 
 fence he was ordered to be sold to the lowest bidder, who 
 was obligated to send the unfortunate black out of the 
 territory, as soon as he had paid himself for the expense 
 of doing so, out of his services. ■ • • - - ^ — 
 
 But on the matter of taxes the people were not so well 
 ap^reed, the general determination being, however, to pay 
 the expenses of the government only by subscription, as 
 agreed to by a vote of the people the previous year. 
 
 Tlic American settlers were averse to being taxed for 
 the support of a government which might become a bur- 
 den to them in this way; and the most politic of the poli- 
 ticians in the American party feared that by taxing the 
 people they should alarm the Canadians, whom they had 
 again invited to join the organization. As there were dis- 
 
 4 
 
 t- -!,l 
 
354 
 
 DEFEAT OF THE INDEl'ENDEX'l PAUTY. 
 
 I'S 
 
 son tors among the voters, there were also two parties in 
 the legislature on this subject. 
 
 However, an issue was started this year in the legisla- 
 ture, which governed the election of the next year's legis- 
 lature. Its purpose was pretty clearly shadowed forth in 
 the following paragraph from the message of the executive 
 committee : 
 
 "And we sincerely hope that Oregon, by the special aid of Divine Providence, 
 may set an unprecedented example to the world, of industry, morality, and vir- 
 tue. And, although we may now be unknown as a state or power, yet we have 
 the advantages by united efforts of our increasing population, in a diligent 
 attention to agriculture, arts, and literature, of attaining, at no distant day, to 
 as conspicuous an elevation as any state or power on the continent of America." 
 
 This feeler put forth by the executive committee, one of 
 whom was the candidate for Governor, of the Independ- 
 ent party, while it struck a responsive chord in the hearts 
 of a portion of the legislative committee, had the effect to 
 alarm the patriotism of the loyal American ; an alarm 
 which spread, and which expressed itself in the choice of 
 the legislature of 1845, as well as in the choice of a gov- 
 ernor, defeating entirely the hopes and designs of ihe 
 would-be founders of an Independent Government. 
 
 ■ •.■•^■;'iJ' ■' ;?}•,.■ 
 
 
 
 I! 
 
? 
 
 THE OIIEGON CITY LAND-CLAIM. 
 
 355 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 1842-4. In all the movements which had been made by 
 either party in Oregon the Hudson's Bay Company had not 
 been lost sight of. Each one had something to gain or lose 
 by the approval or disapproval of that company. A few 
 individuals, however, belonging to the mission, under the 
 pretence of taking care of the rights of American citizens, 
 made continual war on Dr. McLaughlin as the represent- 
 ative of the Company, and scrupled not to set his rights 
 at defiance. 
 
 The Rev. Father Waller, who had in 1840 obtained the 
 Doctor's permission to build a mission school and store- 
 house on the land claimed by him since 1830, found so 
 many points of merit in the situation of the land that he 
 resolved to set up a counter claim, and hold it by posses- 
 sion. The first intimation that the Doctor had of such an 
 intention was in 1842, when a rumor of that kind was 
 afloat. On inquiring of the superintendent of the mission 
 concerning the truth of the matter, he was told that Mr. 
 Waller denied setting up any claim to the land. Yet whe;i 
 the Doctor, a few days later wished to give a lot to a set- 
 tler, Mr. Waller would not allow it to be given away, say- 
 ing he was " very much obliged to Dr. McLaughlin for 
 disposing of his property." Then commenced a tedious 
 and irritating struggle with the Reverend claim-jumper. 
 On appealing to the superintendent a second time the 
 Doctor was informed that Mr. Lee had " understood Mr. 
 
 I 
 
 -;fl 
 
356 
 
 ATTEMPTS AT A SETTLKMENT. 
 
 Waller to say that he had set up no claim in opposition to 
 the Doctor's, but that if the Doctor's claim i'ailed, and the 
 mission did not put in a claim, he (Waller) considered that 
 ^ he had a better right than any other man, and should 
 • secure the title if he could." It was evident from this 
 admission that Mr. Waller expected that the mission would 
 put in a claim, failing to do which he should do so for 
 himself. 
 
 Again, Mr. Lee informed the Doctor that " a citizen of 
 the United States, by becoming a missionary, did not re- 
 nounce any civil or political rights," therefore he could 
 not control his associates in such matters. Upon which 
 information. Dr. McLaughlin called upon Mr, Waller in 
 order to seek an adjustment of the difficulty. In the in- 
 terview which followed, Mr. Waller again by implication 
 denied his intention to wrong the Doctor, and agreed 
 that if he were allowed to retain possession of that portion 
 of the Doctor's land which he had cleared and improved, 
 he would give in exchange for it an equal amount of land 
 out of his claim which adjoined the Doctor's. To this Dr. 
 McLaughlin consented, and sent a man to survey and meas- 
 ure the lots which Mr. Waller had improved, or given 
 away to his friends, in order to mark out an equal portion 
 for himself on that portion of Waller's claim adjoining 
 his. But no sooner had he done this than Mr. Waller "- 
 clared that he would not consent to the arrangement, say- 
 ing, " keep you yours, I will keep mine ;" a mode of 
 settlement most agreeable to the Doctor, only that while 
 Mr. Waller kept his own, he kept the Doctor's also. 
 
 A few months later there came to the Falls a lawyer, who 
 was on his way to the Sandwich Islands, a Mr. llicord. 
 This gentleman, in a conversation with Mr. McLaughlin, 
 gave it as his opinion that the Doctor could not hold his 
 claim at the Falls, because he was a British subject. Here 
 
■■-Y- 
 
 opposition to 
 iled, and the 
 iisidered that 
 , and should 
 snt from this 
 lission would 
 Id do so for 
 
 ' a citizen of 
 . did not re- 
 •re he could 
 Upon which 
 [r. Waller in 
 HJ, In the in- 
 f implication 
 and agreed 
 that portion 
 d improved, 
 cunt of laud 
 
 To this Dr. 
 ey and meas- 
 sd, or given 
 qua] portion 
 tn adjoining 
 
 Waller "^- 
 gement, say- 
 
 a mode of 
 r that while 
 I also. 
 
 lawyer, who 
 Mr. llicord. 
 McLaughlin, 
 not hold his 
 3ject. Here 
 
 MR. RICORD 8 PROPOSITION DECLINED. 
 
 357 
 
 then, was another and an unexpected bar to his rights, 
 and the Doctor was fain to offer Mr. Ricord a fee if ho 
 could show him any way by which he could hold his claim. 
 This proposition after some deliberation, and consultation 
 with the mission gentlemen, was entertained on the follow- 
 ing terms : That the Doctor was to relinquish his claim 
 to an island in the river whereon the mission had erected 
 a gristmill, that Mr. Waller was to retain two lots on the 
 town site of Oregon City, already occupied by him, and 
 other lots besides, to the amount of five acres, to be chosen 
 by himself: that Rev. Jason Lee should be in like manner 
 secured in regard to certain town lots, in behalf of the 
 Methodist mission, and that for his services in bringing about 
 this exceedingly just and equitable arrangement, and giv- 
 in": his advice, Mr. Ricord was to receive the sum of three 
 hundred pounds sterling. To such a proposition the 
 Doctor declined to give his assent, and the matter rested 
 for a time. 
 
 However, before Mr. Ricord left the colony, which he 
 did on one of the Company's vessels, another conversation 
 was had with him, and also with Mr. Lee, in which the 
 Doctor submitted another proposition, in which he oil'ered 
 the mission two lots for a church, two lots for the clergy- 
 man, two lots for the school-house, and two lots for the 
 school-master ; said lots to be taken out of a specified por- 
 tion of the town site. He also offered to pay for the 
 huilding occupied by Mr. Abernethy, a member of the 
 mission, and subsequently Governor of the colony, but not 
 for that portion of Mr. Waller's house wiiich had been 
 built out of his own squared timbers, lent for that purpose 
 and never returned or paid for, but for all other improve- 
 ments which had been made on those lots which he wanted 
 for business purposes. 
 
 He further offered to let the milling company go on as they 
 
 ■mi 
 
 ■ :':|t 
 
 ».Kt 
 
 mm 
 
 w 
 
 hi 
 
 
358 
 
 MR. R1C011D8 CAVEAT. 
 
 were doing, until the boundary line was settled, when, if 
 his claim was admitted, he would pay them for the work 
 done and the fair value of the mill as decided by arbitra- 
 tors To this proposition Mr. Lee and Mr. Ricord gave 
 their approval, expressing their sense of the Doctor's fair- 
 ness and generosity. As Mr. Lee was about to set out for 
 Wfishington, he requested the Doctor to leave the mission 
 in possession until his return, which was agreed to without 
 8us})icion. 
 
 Nearly four months subsequently, Mr. McLaughlin was 
 presented with a copy of a caveat, made out against him 
 three days previous to the last mentioned conversa- 
 tion, the original of which was in the pocket of one of 
 these gentlemen at the very moment they were expressing 
 their sense of his generosity, and asking for a little time 
 before disturbing the mission, and which ran as follows: 
 
 " You will please to take notice that my client, Mr. A. F. Waller, has taken 
 formal measures at Washinj];ton to substantiate his ckiin as a preomptor and ac- 
 tual settler upon the tract of land, sometimes called the Wallamet Falls settle- 
 nunt and sometimes Oie^^on City, comprising six hundred and forty acres ; and 
 being aw.ire that, although a foreigner, you claim to exercise acts of ownership 
 over said land, this notice is given to apprise you that all sales you may make 
 of lots or other subdivisions of said farm, after the receipt hereof, will be re- 
 garded by my client, and by the government, as absolutely fraudulent, and will 
 be mailc at your peril." Tlien followed the grounds upon which the Doctor's 
 claim was denied. Firtl, that he was an alien ; Sccomibj, that he was the chief 
 of a foreign corporate monopoly ; 'J'hirdli/, that he had not resided upon the 
 land in (juostion for a year previous ; Foiirthh/, that he did not hold the land 
 for himself but the company; Fifilily. that his claim, if he had any, arose two 
 years subsequent to Mr. Waller's settlement thereon. This flattering docu- 
 ment closed with Mr. Ricord's regrets that he had » faded to make an amicable 
 compromise ' of the matter between the Doctor and his client, and also that 
 his " client had been driven to the vexatious proceedings of the law, in order 
 to establish his rights as an American citizen." 
 
 Poor old long-suffering Dr. McLaughlin ! it would hardly 
 have bcoR strange had he hated the name of an "Amer- 
 ican citizen," so often was it assumed only to give counte- 
 
 Hi 
 
KQIJAL RIGHTS OF ALL WHITE MALE CITIZENS. 
 
 359 
 
 rive counte- 
 
 iianco to the greatest abuses. At tlie time, too, that it 
 was so frequently used and abused, there was only a sup- 
 posit iuus right to the soil on the side of the Ainerieans, 
 and a British citizen had quite as many rights really as an 
 Aiiierican. Besides, Mr. Linn's bill, which was the found- 
 ation of the colony's assumptions, made no distinction be- 
 twocn people of any nationality, but provided that every 
 white male citizen might claim six hundred and forty 
 iiiTcs of land. Nor had the colonists ever thought of 
 interfering with the Canadians who were settled upon 
 farms in the Wallamct. It was only Dr. McLaughlin, and 
 the goutlemeii of the Hudson's Bay Company who were 
 so obnoxious to a portion of the Americans. 
 
 We think it was about this time that Meek once sur- 
 prised the Doctor at his devotions, in his office, where he 
 was probably praying for patience. However that was, 
 Meek was coming in at the door, but seeing the Doctor 
 on liis knees, praying and crossing himself- — for he was a 
 good Catholic — he paused to await the conclusion. On 
 rising, the Doctor glanced round, and met the mirthful 
 look of the irreverent Joe. 
 
 " Oh, Mr. Jo ! Mr. Jo ! the devil, the devil !" cried the Doc- 
 tor, greatly surprised at the intrusion, and giving vent to 
 tiiose rapid ejaculations which always escaped him when an- 
 noyed. Then immediately repenting of his haste in giv- 
 ing way to his irritability, he exclaimed in the next breath 
 'God forgive me, God forgive me!" rubbing his stomach 
 with a little rapid movement peculiar to him ; his fine 
 honest Scotch face flushing in contrast to the long white 
 hair which imparted such distinction to his appearance. 
 
 Bnt to finish the story of the Oregon City claim. In 
 April of 1844, Doctor McLaughlin consented that Doctor 
 White should speak to Mr. Waller about the matter, and 
 find whether or not it could be adjusted, because all this 
 
 4i 
 
 \u 
 
 .' <■; 
 
 I.: •'■ 
 
 ■/if :o!- 
 
 
 
 V 
 
3G0 
 
 AKHITRATOHH APPOINTED — TIIEIIl AWAHI). 
 
 discussion was producing delays ruinous to the business 
 of Dr. iMcLaugliliu. It was at last determined to leave 
 the settlement to arl)itrators, and Mr. James Douglas, n 
 Chief Factor and associate of the Doctor's, Mr. Gilpin, and 
 Dr. White, were chosen to act for Dr. McLaughlin. The 
 terms exacted by Mr. Waller were five acres and five hun- 
 dred dollars to himself, and fourteen lots to the Methodist 
 mission. To the credit of the two Americans choson, be 
 it said, that they opposed this exorbitant demand; and 
 were only persuaded to accede to it by Mr. Douglas. 
 
 When the terms were made known to the Doctor, he 
 exclaimed to his arbitrators all, " Gentlemen, you have 
 bound me;" but Mr. Gilpin instantly disavowed having a 
 hand in the arrangement. Then said the Doctor to Mr. 
 Douglas, " This is your doings!" 
 
 " Yes," answered Douglas, Avho felt how much the con- 
 stant jarring had annoyed his chief, "I thought it best for 
 your sake to give you one good fever, and have done 
 with it. I have acceded to the terms and signed the pa- 
 pers." 
 
 Unfortunately for Mr. Douglas' intentions, this was not 
 the last ' good fever ' into which the Methodist mission 
 was to throw the Doctor. Not two months after the set- 
 tlement was made, it was resolved to dissolve the mission; 
 and in July Mr. Gary, the new superintendent, began to 
 sell the mission property. Knowing that the lots they 
 held were particularly desirable to Dr. McLaughlin for his 
 own use, Mr. Gary called on him in company with Mr. 
 Hines and one other gentleman of the mission, and offered 
 to sell them back to him for the sum of six thousand dol- 
 lars, with the improvements ; reserving, however, two 
 lots for the church, all the fruit trees, and garden vegeta- 
 bles then growing, and the use of the warehouse for one 
 year. -,...,.■.. ^. m^- :)iw^^-n.Hr,sT. 
 
 n 
 

 ' il 
 
 INCOUI'ORATION OF OilKOON CUT. 
 
 3()i 
 
 111 v;iiii the Doctor roraonstrated against the valuation 
 [lut upon tlio property, and against being made to ])ay 
 Olio hundred dollars for Mr. Waller's old house built with 
 timber borrowed from himself; no other terms would the 
 mission consent to. At last, wearied out with contention, 
 and needing them for his own business. Dr. McLaughlin 
 a;fr('('d to give them their price for his lots, as he had just 
 bi'lbro given them the lots. 
 
 Thus, with much cost and annoyance, the question of 
 ownership in Oregon City was settled ; and after some 
 solicitation the legislative committee passed an incorpora- 
 tion act recognizing its right to be called a town. The 
 island on which the milling company had their grist mill, 
 which had once formed a part of the Doctor's claim, still 
 remained in the hands of the company, more than three- 
 fourths of whom were members of the mission. ..'u i • 
 
 But the end was not yet, and we do not choo.so to an- 
 ticipate. It is enough to say here, that from this time on, 
 for a period of four years. Dr. McLaughlin was permitted 
 to pursue his business at Oregon City, or Wallamet Falls 
 as it has heretofore been called, without any serious inter- 
 ruption. 
 
 The mission party were still opposed to anything which 
 the Hudson's Bay Company might do, thus compelling 
 them to form a party by themselves, between whom and 
 the mission party stood the American party, made up of 
 the more liberal-minded settlers, the late immigrants, and 
 the greater number of the mountain-men. In each of the 
 colonial parties, mission and American, were a few inde- 
 pendent individuals, who were friendly to, or at enmity 
 with the Hudson's Bay Company, without consulting party 
 feeling at all. So strong was the prejudice, however, which 
 the mission party, and a few individuals of the American 
 party, indulged towards the Hudson's Bay Company, and 
 
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 DKSri:HATK ClIAUACTKHa. 
 
 Dr. McLaughlin in particular, that there had always beon 
 much uneasiness felt at Vancouver concerning the siilety 
 of the fort. 
 
 There had been, from the first of the American settle- 
 ment, some lawless and desperate cl.iracters in the coiiii 
 try, coming either from California, the mountains, or from 
 trading vessels visiting the Colund)ia. These persons be- 
 longed to no party, nor had any association with the 
 actual settlers. They were frowned down by all good 
 citizens alike. Yet this class of persons invariably tool; 
 *he tone of extravagant Americanism, and refused tn I>" 
 snui)bed by the Hudson's Bay Company, whatever alights 
 they were compelled to boar from any other quarter, 
 Many were the threats which had been made against the 
 Hudson's Bay Company's property at Vancouver; and 
 serious, at times, were Dr. McLaughlin's apprehensions 
 lest he should not be able to protect it. While the colo- 
 nists, in 1843, were memorializing Congress that they 
 were in fear and danger from the Indians and the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company, Dr. McLaughlin was writing to the 
 Directors of that Company, that he was in fear of the 
 colonists. 
 
 He explained the position of affairs in this wise : there 
 were large numbers of immigrants coming into the terri- 
 tory from that portion of the L^nited States most hostile 
 in feeling to British interests, which hostility was greatly 
 excited by the perusal of Irving's Astoria, and the pub- 
 lished letters of Kelly and Spaulding, which represented 
 the Company's conduct in the falsest colors. These immi- 
 grants had received such an impression, that they really 
 feared the Company might set the Indians on them, and 
 although they now knew better, it was hard overcoming 
 such prejudices ; besides, there were always some whc 
 were ready to avail themselves o^ iae prejudices of others 
 
-77'- 
 
 1)K. MCLAUGHLIN A8KS FOR rUOTKCTION. 
 
 303 
 
 to get lip an issue. Threats had been uttered against 
 Vancouver, and really the people were eneouru^'od to 
 iiiiike iin attack, by the j)ul)lic prints in the United States 
 stilting tliat British subjects ought not to be allowed to 
 roma 1 in Oregon. There was no dependence in the 
 cominoii men sd)ont the fort to do sentry duty beyond a 
 ft;w iii^'Iits, nor were there oO^vM^rg enough to be put upon 
 piiinl witiumt deranging the \ ole business of the de- 
 jiiirtincnt. To burn the fort would be an easy matter 
 enough in the dry season, .» erytuing about it being of 
 combustible material. And so the Doctor asked that a 
 government vessel be sent to protect Fort Vancouver. 
 No answer, however, had come to this demand up to the 
 moiitii of June, 1845. .. ,, 
 
 We have seen how, with affairs in this condition at 
 Viincouver, and with the settled hostility of the Mission 
 party against Dr. McLaughlin, the peace was yet main- 
 tained by the constant and unremitting kindness of the 
 Doctor towards the American settlers. He had for some 
 time, in his own mind, yielded the question of the future 
 sovereignty of the country. That the Americans would 
 hold all of Oregon south of the Columbia was beyond a 
 peradventure ; how much more, it remained for the heads 
 of government to decide. The only question was, how 
 to keep at peace with them until the boundary should be 
 agreed upon ; and how to maintain his own rights in Ore- 
 gon, as a citizen, until the charter of the Company should 
 expire, leaving him free to choose whether he would be 
 an American or a British subject. 
 
 :''h,' 
 
 o. 
 
364 
 
 THE OATH OF MEMBERSHIP MODIFIED. 
 
 -I 
 
 yjj-st' 
 
 .(' 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 
 1845, The pressure of all these circumstances induced 
 Dr. McLaughlin to consider whether it were not best to 
 unite with the American Organization. It was true the 
 Hudson's Bay Company's charter provided for the govern- 
 ment of its employes. But it had no authority over Ameri- 
 cans, and if a desperado calling himself an American citizen 
 chose to destroy the Company's property, as was continually 
 threatened, he could do so with impunity, so far as the 
 Company's power to punish was concerned. 
 
 There were a few men in the Wallamet colony with 
 whom Dr. McLaughlin was somewhat confidential, and to 
 whom he had spoken of his difficulties. Some of these 
 were men'bers of the legislature, and determined to use 
 their influence to remove the chief obstacle to the Doc- 
 tor's co-operation with the Provisional Government. Ac- 
 cordingly when the legislature convened in the summer of 
 1845, the form of the oath of membership was so altered 
 as to bind the person taking it to support the Organic 
 Laws only ""o far as they were consistent with their duties 
 as citizens ot the United States, or subjects of Great Britain^ 
 
 The Doctor understood this alteration in the form of the 
 oath as an invitation to him to join the organization in be- 
 half of the Hudson's Bay Company, and a letter tohirafrom 
 the gentlemen in the legislature confirmed him in thij belief. 
 Convinced that it was the best thing to do, for the peace 
 and security of all concerned, the Doctor, after consulting 
 
 f 1 
 
 !: 
 
 _i 
 
UNWELCOME VISITORS AT FORT VANCOUVER. 365 
 
 with his associate, Mr., now Sir James Douglas, became a 
 member of the colonial organization. Now, certainly, it 
 would seem, he might , -dt his mind at rest, since all the 
 people in the country were acting together under one 
 ffoveriiment, which interfered with the allegiance of no 
 one. The Canadians had already united with the Ameri- 
 cans, leaving no outsiders except the Indians ; the organi- 
 zation itself had been re-modeled and strengthened, the 
 colony had a regular legislature with the full poM^ers usual 
 to such bodies, and had a governor, also clothed with the 
 gubernatorial authority common to that office in the United 
 States. ■■ 
 
 But just when Dr. McLaughlin was settling down to a 
 somewhat composed state of mind, in view of all the 
 amendments above mentioned, there suddenly appeared 
 at Fort Vancouver two visitors — gentlemen of position — 
 government officers on leave, which perhaps meant in this 
 instance on a secret service. These two gentlemen were 
 Lieut. Peel and Captain Park, and they brought a letter 
 to Dr. McLaughlin from Captain Gordon, of Her Majesty's 
 ship America, then in Puget Sound, and this letter was to 
 inform him that the America had been sent by Admiral 
 Seymour "to assure Her Majesty's subjects in the country 
 of firm protection." 
 
 After the struggle seemed almost over, and light began 
 to dawn on the vexed question of conflicting duties, too 
 late to be of any real service, but seeming rather to be in 
 danger of exciting fresh suspicion, the long-waited-for help 
 had come at last. Dr. McLaughlin had plenty of reason 
 to wish his visitors had staid away, both then and after- 
 wards ; so evident was it that their business in Oregon was 
 that of spies — spies upon himself, as well as upon the 
 Americans. What their report was, can only be guessed 
 at. Certain it is, however, that the Doctor was called upon 
 
"366 
 
 WONDERFUL TRANSFORMATION. 
 
 for explanations with regard to his acts encouraginff 
 American settlement, and his reasons for joining the Ameri- 
 can colonial organization, and that he fell under the Com- 
 pany's censure for the same — the misunderstanding ending 
 in his resignation. 
 
 Lieut. Peel and Captain Park made their visit to Van- 
 couver agreeable to themselves, as well as serviceable to 
 their Government. They partook not only of the hospi- 
 tality of the fort, but visited also among the American set- 
 tlers, taking " pot-luck," and sleeping in a cabin loft, with 
 great good humor. If they sometimes displayed a little 
 native snobishness toward the frontiersmen, it is not to be 
 wondered at. * 
 
 As our friend Meek was sure to be found wherever there 
 was anything novel or exciting transpiring, so he was sure 
 to fall in with visitors so distinguished as these, and as 
 ready to answer their questions as they were to ask them. 
 The conversation chanced one day to run upon the changes 
 that had taken place in the country since the earUest set- 
 tlement by the Americans, and Meek, who felt an honest 
 pride in them, was expatiating at some length, to the ill- 
 concealed amusement of the young oflficers, who probably 
 saw nothing to admire in the rude improvements of the 
 Oregon pioneers. 
 
 "Mr. Meek," said one of them, "if you have been so 
 long in the country and have witnessed such wonderful 
 transformations, doubtless you may have observed equally 
 great ones in nature ; in 'Ae rivers and mountains, for in- 
 stance ?" 
 
 Meek gave a lightning glance at the speaker who had so 
 mistaken his respondent : 
 
 " I reckon I have," said he slowly. Then waving his 
 hand gracefully toward the miajestic Mt. Hood, towering 
 thousands of feet above the summit of the Cascade range, 
 
p 
 
 PROMISING CONDITION OF THE COLONY. 
 
 367 
 
 and white with everlasting snows : " When / came to this 
 country, Mount Hood was a hole in the ground /" 
 
 It is hardly necessary to say that the conversation ter- 
 minated abruptly, amid the universal cachinations of the 
 bystanders. 
 
 Notwithstanding the slighting views of Her British Ma 
 jcsty's naval officers, the young colony was making rapid 
 strides. The population had been increased nearly eight 
 hundred by the immigration of 1844, so that now it num- 
 bered nearly two thousand. Grain had been raised in 
 considerable qiiantities, cattle and hogs had multiplied, 
 and the farmers were in the best of spirits. Even our hero, 
 wlio hated farm labor, began to entertain faith in the re- 
 sources of his land claim to make him rich. 
 
 Such was the promising condition of the colony in the 
 summer of 1845. Much of the real prosperity of the set- 
 tlers was due to the determination of the majority to ex- 
 clude ardent spirits and all intoxicating drinks from the 
 country. So well had they succeeded that a gentleman 
 TOting of the colony at that time, says: "I attended the 
 last term of the circuit courts in most of the counties, and 
 I found great respect shown to judicial authority every- 
 where ; nor did I see a single drunken juryman^ nor wit- 
 ma. nor spectator. So much industry, good order, and 
 sobriety I have never seen in any community." 
 
 While this was the rule, there were exceptions to it. 
 During the spring term of the Circuit Court, Judge Ne- 
 smith being on the bench, a prisoner was arraigned before 
 him for " assault with intent to kill." The witness for the 
 prosecution was called, and was proceeding to give evi- 
 dence, when, at some statement of his, the prisoner vocifer- 
 ated that he was a "d d liar," and quickly strippi.ag 
 
 off his coat demanded a chance to fight it out with the 
 
 witness. 
 
 24 
 
 *.' ' ' \j. •/ *.'■ - - ',' *■*' ■ ' '^ « ' * 
 
 
 14' 
 
 1? - 
 
368 
 
 ANECDOTE OF JUDGE NESMITH. 
 
 Judge Nesmith called for the interference of Meek, 
 who had been made marshal, but just at that moment he 
 was not to be found. Coming into the room a moment 
 later, ]\Ieek saw the Judge down from his bench, holdinf^ 
 the prisoner by the collar. 
 
 " You can imagine," says Meek, " the bustle in court. 
 But the Judge had the best of it. lie fined the rascal. 
 and made him pay it on the spot ; while I just stood back 
 to see his honor handle him. That was fun for me." 
 
 Such, however, was the good ordei- of the colony at 
 this time, that it was thought important to memorialize 
 Congress on the condition and prospects of Oregon— to 
 remind the Government of the precarious situation of its 
 expectant children, should either the Indians or the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company make war on them ; but most import- 
 ant of all, to beseech the United States to put an end to 
 the treaty of joint occupation before the expiration of the 
 ten years now nearly concluded. 
 
 The memorial being prepared, together with a copy of 
 the Organic Laws, and explanations and assurances to the 
 Government that they were only adopted th:rough neces- 
 sity, these documents were signed by the members of the 
 House of Representatives and delivered to Dr. White, 
 who was about to leave for the States, to se*+l«> up his 
 accounts at Washington. 
 
 Connected with this very proper and dignified proce. d- 
 ing, was another not strictly dignified, but on the contrary 
 partaking largely of the ridiculous. It appeared that, 
 although the Speaker of the House opposed the Organic 
 Law, as recently adopted, under the impression it was his 
 duty, he had appended his name to the copy to be trans- 
 mitted to the Government, and also the resolutions of the 
 House accompanying them. Dr. White was already on 
 his way to Vancouver with the dispatches, when the dis- 
 
1 
 
 LUDICROUS LEGISLATIVE PROCEEDINGS. 
 
 369 
 
 covery of this great misdemeanor was made known, to 
 the assembly. Iinniediately thereupon the Speaker was 
 ("•ranted leave of absence, to follow and overtake Dr. 
 White, and to erase his name from said documents. Other 
 resolutions were passed, ordering a messenger to be des- 
 patched to bring back the documents, and also others 
 not by any means complimentary to Dr. White. 
 
 A day or two later, the following note was received 
 from Dr. White : 
 
 "August 17, 1845. 
 To the Honorable, Sfc. ; 
 
 Gkxti.kmkn: — Being on my way, and having hut a moment to reflect, T 
 have been at a loss which of your resohitions most to respect or to obey; but 
 »t length have become satisfied that the first was taken most soberly, and, as it 
 answers my purpose best, I pledge myself to adhere strictly to that. Sincerely 
 wisliing you good hick in legislating, 
 
 I am, my dear sirs, very respectfully yours, . . 
 
 E. WHITE. 
 
 Not to be outwitted so handsomely by the aspiring In- 
 dian Agent, it was subsequently 
 
 " Resolved, Tliat the Secretary be 
 Government, through the American 
 tlie articles of compact, as adopted 
 last Saturday of July, A. D. 1845 ; 
 enior and attested by the Secretary ; 
 relative to sending said documents 
 Tenitory ; also a copy of the letter 
 
 requested to forward to the United States 
 
 Consul at the Sandwich Islandf, a copy of 
 
 by the people of Oregon Territory, on the 
 
 and that the same be signed by the Gov- 
 
 also, all resolutions adopted h^ this House, 
 
 by E. White, late Indian Agent of this 
 
 of E. White to this House." 
 
 Whether or not these documents were ever transmitted 
 does not appear ; but certain it is, that Dr. White returned 
 not again with either a gubernatorial commission or Indian 
 agency. That he probably hoped to do so may be gath- 
 ered from an extract taken from the St. Louis New Era 
 of that period, which runs as follows : 
 
 iM 
 
 li-ii 
 
 
 m 
 
 m:,. 
 
 "Oregon. — Mr. Elijah White is on his way to Washington, as a delegate 
 from the self-constituted government of Oregon, and goes to ask for a seat in Con- 
 
 M j»^^ 
 
370 
 
 GROWTH OF IMPROVEMENTS — NEW TOWNS. 
 
 gress, to represent that distant territory. He carries with him his credentials from 
 the jiroriaional gorenimeut of Oregon, and a large petition from the inhabitants 
 of that region, asking that the jurisdiction of the United States may extend 
 over that territory. * » » ♦ Xhis delegation to Congress is 
 
 to induce that body to take the actual occupancy of Oregon, and on his report 
 and success will depend the decision of the (juestion, whether or not the peoplo 
 will establish a separate and independent republic on the shores of the Pacific," 
 
 But solemn audacity, like virtue, is sometimes com- 
 pelled to be its own reward. 
 
 The autumn of 1845 was marked less by striking events 
 than by the energy which the people exhibited in improv- 
 ing the colony by laying out roads and town-sites. Al- 
 ready quite a number of towns were located, in which 
 the various branches of business were beginning to de- 
 velop themselves. Oregon City was the most populous 
 and important, but Salem, Charapoeg, and Portland were 
 known as towns, and other settlements were growing up 
 on the Tualatin Plains and to the south of them, in the 
 fertile valleys of the numerous tributaries to the Wal- 
 lamet. , ,,. 
 
 Portland was settled in this year, and received its name 
 from the game of " heads you lose, tails I win," by wuich 
 its joint owners agreed to determine it. One of thqm 
 being a Maine man, was for giving it the name which it 
 now bears , the other partner being in favor of Boston, 
 because he was a Massachusetts man. It was, therefore, 
 agreed between them that a copper cent should be tossed 
 to decide the question of the christening, which being 
 done, heads and Portland won. 
 
 The early days of that city were not always safe and 
 pleasan any more than those of its older rivals ; and the 
 few ir abitants frequently were much annoyed by the 
 raids they were subject to from the now thoroughly vag- 
 abondized Indians. On one occasion, while yet the pop- 
 ulation was small, they were very much annoyed by the 
 
AN INDIAN CAROUSAL AT TORTLAND. 
 
 371 
 
 letimes corn- 
 
 visit of eight or ten lodges of Indians, who had some- 
 where obtained liquor enough to get drunk on, and were 
 enjoying a debauch in that spirit of total abandon which 
 distinguishes the Indian carousal. 
 
 Their performances at length alarmed the people, yet 
 no one could be found who could put an end to them. 
 Ill this dilemma the Marshal came riding into town, splen- 
 didly mounted on a horse that would turn at the least 
 touch of the rein. The countenances of the anxious 
 Portlanders brightened. One of the town proprietors 
 eagerly besought him to " settle those Indians." "Very 
 well," answered Meek ; " I reckon it won't take me long." 
 Mounting his horse, after first securing a rawhide rope, he 
 "cliiirgcd" the Indian lodges, rope in hand, laying it on 
 with force, the bare shoulders of the Indians oiFering 
 good hack-grounds for the pictures which he was rapidly 
 executing, '■" 'i.p;i« u. .; iijj' iiJ ■■(i:i■:'■:^;.i.t). ., ^ (. 
 
 Not one made any resistance, for they had a wholesome 
 fear of tyee Meek. In twenty minutes not an Indian, man 
 or woman, was left in Portland. Some jumped into the 
 river and swam to the opposite side, and some fled to the 
 thick woods and hid themselves. The next morning, 
 early, the women cautiously returned and carried awa)^ 
 their property, but the men avoided being seen again by 
 the marshal who punished drunkenness so severely. 
 
 Readeys query. Was it Meek or the Marshal who so 
 strongly disapproved of spreeing ? 
 
 Ans. It was the Marshal. 
 
 The immigration to Orego.i this year much exceeded 
 that of any previous year ; and there was the usual 
 amount of poverty, sickness, and suffering of every sort, 
 among the fresh arrivals. Indeed the larger the trains 
 the greater the amount of suffering generally ; since the 
 grass was more likely to be exhausted, and more hin- 
 
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 tit 
 
 
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 li 
 
 ./: 
 
 ■ '^^Q 
 
 ':■ ■ 
 
 ' ^Ks 
 
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 \M 
 
372 
 
 TUE IMMIGUATION OF 1845. 
 
 ■1 !' 
 
 drances of every kind were likely to occur. In any case, 
 a march of several months through an unsettled country 
 was sure to leave the traveler iu a most forlorn and ex- 
 hausted condition every way. 
 
 This was the situation of thousands of people who 
 reached the Dalles in the autunni of 1845. Food waa 
 very scarce among them, and the dilliculties to encounter 
 before reaching the Wallamet just as great a^^ those of the 
 two previous years. As usual the Hudson's Bay Company 
 came to the assistance of the immigrants, furnishing a pas- 
 sage down the river in their boats; the sick, and the 
 women and children being taken first. ■ •- • ■"•-*•■ 
 
 Among the crowd of people encamped at the Dalles, 
 was a Mr. Rector, since well known in Oregon and Cali- 
 fornia. Like many others he was destitute of provisions ; 
 his supplies having given out. Neither had he any money. 
 In this extremity he did that which was very disagreeable 
 to him, as one of the "prejudiced" American citizens 
 who were instructed beforehand to hate and suspect the 
 Hudson's Bay Company — he applied to the company's 
 agent at the Dalles for some potatoes and flour, confessing 
 his present inability to pay, with much shame and reluc- 
 tance. 
 
 " Do not apologize, sir," said the agent kindly ; " take 
 what you need. There is no occasion to starve while our 
 supplies hold out." 
 
 Mr, R. found his prejudices in danger of melting away 
 under such treatment ; and not liking to receive bounty a 
 second time, he resolved to undertake the crossing of the 
 Cascade mountains while the more feeble of the immi- 
 grants were being boated down the Columbia. A few 
 others who were in good health decided to accompany 
 him. They succeeded in getting their wagons forty miles 
 beyond the Dalles ; but there they could move no further. 
 
THE CASCADE MOUNTAIN UOAD-HUNTERS. 
 
 373 
 
 ^ 
 
 i 
 
 III this dilemma, after consultation, Mr. Rector and Mr. 
 Burluw agreed to go ahead and look out a wagon road. 
 Taking with them two days' provisions, they started on 
 ill the direction of Oregon City. But they found road 
 hunting in the Cascade mountains an experience unlike 
 aiiv they had ever had. Not only had they to contend 
 with the usual obstacles of precipices, ravines, mountam 
 torrents, and weary stretches of ascent and descent; but 
 they found the forests standing so thickly that it would 
 have been impossible to have passed between the trees 
 with their wagons had the ground been clear of fallen 
 tiiiiher and undergrowth. On the contrary these latter 
 oi)st;iclos were the greatest of all. So thickly were the 
 trunks of fallen trees crossed and ^crossed everywhere, 
 and so dense the growth of bushes in amongst them, that 
 it was with difficulty they could force their way on foot. 
 
 It soon became apparent to the road hunters, that two 
 (lays' rations would not suffice for what work they had 
 before them. At the first camp it was agreed to live 
 upon half rations the next day ; and to divide and subdi- 
 vide their food each day, only eating half of what was 
 left from the day before, so that there would always still 
 remain a morsel in case of dire extremity. 
 
 But the toil of getting through the woods and over the 
 mountains proved excessive ; and that, together with in- 
 sulTicient food, had in the course of two or three days 
 reduced the strength of Mr. Barlow so that it was with 
 great ctFort only that he could keep up with his younger 
 and more robust companion, stumbling and falling at 
 every few steps, and frequently hurting himself considera- 
 bly. 
 
 So wolfish and cruel is the nature of men, under trying 
 circumstances, that instead of feeling pity for his weaker 
 and less fortunate companion, Mr. Rector became impa- 
 
 K^ ' ^ 
 
 \ 
 
 m 
 'it' 
 
 ■:1 
 
 ; i I' 
 
 ml 
 
 fv*. * 
 
 Y* 
 
 
37-i 
 
 THE CASCADE MOUNTAIN UOAU-UUNTEIW. 
 
 * 1 
 
 III 
 
 ticnt, blaming him for causing delays, and often rcquirin" 
 assistance. 
 
 To render their situation still more trying, rain began 
 to fall heavily, wliich with the cold air of the mountains 
 soon benumbed their exhausted frames. Fearing that 
 should they go to sleep so cold and famished, thoy miirht 
 never be able to rise again, on the fourth or fifth eveniii<' 
 
 they resolved to 
 kindle a fire, ifby 
 any means they 
 could do so. Dry 
 and broken wood 
 had been plenty 
 enough, but for tlio 
 rain, w^hich was 
 drenching every- 
 thing. Neither 
 matches nor fliut 
 had they, however, 
 in any case. The 
 night was setting 
 in black with dark- 
 ness ; the wind 
 swayed the giant 
 firs over head, and 
 then they heard 
 the thunder of a 
 falling monarch of 
 the forest unpleas- 
 antly near. Search- 
 ing among the bush- 
 es, and under falhm timber for some dry leaves and sticks, 
 Mr. Rector took a bundle of them to the most sheltered 
 spot he could find, and set himself to work to coax a spark 
 of fire out of two pieces of dry wood which he had split 
 
 THE ROAD-HUNTERS. 
 

 Ti^^ 
 
 I'nF 
 
 r"-! 
 
 THE CASCADE MOUNTAIN IIOAD-HUNTEIIS. 
 
 375 
 
 foi' tliiit purpose. It was a long and weary wliile before suc- 
 cess wasatttiiiied, l)y vigorous rubbing together of the dry 
 wood, but it was attained at hist; and the stiiVeniug limbs 
 oftiio road-hunters were warmed by a blazing eamp-fire. 
 
 The following day, the food being now reduced to a 
 criiiiib for each, the explorers, weak and dejected, toiled 
 oil in silence, Mr. Rector always in advance. On chancing 
 to look back at his companion he observed him to be 
 biiisliiiig away a tear. "What now, old man?" asked 
 Mr. Pt. with most unchristian harshness. 
 
 " What would you do with me. Rector, should I fall and 
 hrciik a leg, or become in any way disabled?" inquired 
 Mr. Barlow, nervously. 
 
 "Do with you? I ivould eat youT growled Mr. Rec- 
 tor, stalking on again. ' - ' 
 
 As no more was said for some time, Mr. R.'s conscience 
 rather misgave him that he treated his friend unfeelingly ; 
 then he stole a look back at him, and beheld the wan face 
 bathed in tears. ' /- - • ,- •..,'■ -: - 
 
 "Come, come, Barlow," said he ore kindly, "don't 
 take affairs so much to heart. You will not break a leg, 
 and I should not eat you if you did, for you have'nt any 
 fle.sh on you to eat." 
 
 " Nevertheless, Rector, I want you to promise me that 
 in case I should fall and disable myself, so that I cannot 
 get on, you will not leave me here to die alone, but will 
 kill me with your axe instead." 
 
 "Nonsense, Barlow; you are weak and nervous, but 
 yon are not going to be disabled, nor eaten, nor killed. 
 Keep up man ; we shall reach Oregon City yet." 
 
 So, onward, but ever luore slowly and painfully, toiled 
 again the pioneers, the wonder being that Mr. Barlow's 
 fears were not realized, for the clambering and descend- 
 ing gave him many a tumble, the tumbles becoming more 
 frequent as his strength declined. 'j-r^Us- 
 
 \S\ 
 
 
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 H( 
 
 
 
 Wt— i 
 
 
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 1 ^ 
 
 ^1 
 
 1' 
 
 Ir 
 
 ^4. ""■'" 
 T(3 
 
 1 
 s. 
 
 ■■' i^^- 
 
.170 
 
 A ItKAHON roil PATHIOTISM. 
 
 Towards cvonln^' of this day as tlioy camo to the pre- 
 cipitous bank of a inouiitaiii stream wliich was flowing iu 
 tho direction they wislied to go, suddenly there came to 
 their ears a sound of more than celestial melody; tiio 
 tinkling of bells, lowing of cattle, the voice of inoii hal- 
 looing to the herds. They had struck the (tattle tniil. 
 ■which they had first diverged from in the hope of fnuliiiir 
 a road passjible to wagons. In the overwhelming revul- 
 sion of feeling which seized them, neither were able for 
 some moments to command their voices to call for assist- 
 ance. That night they camped with the herdsmen, and 
 suj)pcd in such plenty as an immigrant camp afforded. 
 
 Such were the sufferings of two individuals, out of a 
 great crowd of sufferers ; some afllicted in one Avay and 
 some in another. That people who endured so much to 
 reach their El Dorado should be the most locally patriotic 
 people in the world, is not singular. Mr. Barlow lived to 
 construct a wagon road over the Cascades for the use of 
 subsequent immigrations. . 
 
 \ r 
 
 >■* 
 
 j.. I >■■■■ ■,. 
 
 .#* 
 
 -«=»i 
 
 ,*, , V t.. ^iil;. , 
 
 
 
CULLliCTlON OF TAXEB— A POl.DEttOUtt CL'UUENCT. 377 
 
 T"r^' 
 
 T 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI, 
 
 Early in 1846, Meek resigned his oflice of marshal of 
 the colony, owing to the difliculty of collecting taxes; for 
 in a thinly inhabited country, where wheat was a legal 
 teiuler, at sixty cents per bushel, it was rather a burden- 
 some occupation to collect, in so ponderous a currency ; 
 and one in which the collector required a granary more 
 tiiiin a pocket-book. Besides, Meek had out-^rown the 
 marshulship, and aspired to become a legislator at the next 
 June election. ■ . •• ' ' 
 
 He had always discharged his duty with promptitude 
 and rectitude while sheriff; and to his known courage 
 might be attributed, in many instances, the ready compli- 
 ance with law which was remarkable in so new and pecu- 
 liar an organization as that of the Oregon colony. The 
 people had desired not to be taxed, at first ; and for a 
 year or more the goverment wps sustained by a fund 
 raised by subscription. When at last it was deemed best 
 to make collections by law, the Canadians objected to taxa- 
 tion to support an American government, while they were 
 still subjects of Great Britain ; but ultimately yielded the 
 point, by the advice of Dr. McLaughlin. 
 
 But it was not always the Canadians who objected to 
 being taxed, as the following anecdote will show. Dr. 
 McLaughlin was one day sea' a in his office, in conversa- 
 tion with some of his American friends, when the tall form 
 of the sheriff darken '^d the doorway. 
 
 "I have come to tax you. Doctor," said Meek with his 
 
 :^J 
 
 i Mil 
 
 |.:i 
 
 H 1 
 
 f 
 
 i 
 
 — "11 
 
 t~ 
 
 r 
 
■iVP 
 
 378 
 
 THE BORROWED STEER. 
 
 blandest manner, and with a merry twinkle, half sup- 
 pressed, in his black eyes. 
 
 "To tax me, Mr. Jo. I was not aware — I really ^-as 
 not aware — I believed I had paid my tax, Mr. Jo" 
 stammered the Doctor, somewhat annoyed at the prospect 
 of some fresh demand. 
 
 " Thar is an old ox out in my neighborhood, Doctor, 
 and he is said to belong to you. Thar is a tax of twenty- 
 five cents on him." 
 
 "I do not understand you, Mr. Jo. I have no cattle out 
 in your neighborhood." ^cci: rv 
 
 "I couldn't say how that may be, Doctor. All I do 
 know about it, is just this. I went to old G — 's to collect 
 the tax on his stock — and he's got a powerful lot of cat- 
 tle, — and while we war a countin 'em over, he left out 
 that old ox and said it belonged to you." ,- •-■ 
 
 "Oh, oh, I see, Mr. Jo: yes, yes, I see! Sc it was 
 Mr. G — ," cried the Doctor, getting very red in the face. 
 " I do remember now, since you bring it to my mind, that 
 / lent Mr. G — that steer six years ago ! Here are the 
 twenty-five cents, Mr. Jo." 
 
 The sheriff took his money, and w^ent away laughing; 
 while the Doctor's American friends looked quite as much 
 annoyed as the Doctor himself, over the meanness of some 
 of their countrymen. 
 
 The year of 1846 was one of the most exciting in the 
 political history of Oregon. President Polk had at last 
 given the notice required by the Joint occupation treaty, 
 that the Oregon boundary question must be settled. For 
 years the Oregon question had been before Congress, and 
 the people had taken an extraordinary interest in the man- 
 ner in which it should be arranged. Ever since the emi- 
 gration to Oregon hod set in, the frequent memorials from 
 the far-off colony, and the letters which private individu- 
 
■^ 
 
 FIFTY-FOUU FORTY OR FIGHT. 
 
 379 
 
 als were continually writing to friends in the states, con- 
 cerning tlie beauty, fertility, and healthfulness of the new 
 territory, kept alive the interest of the people. As the 
 time drew nigh when a notice might be given, thousands 
 )\ere anxiously waiting to learn what course the President 
 would take with regard to it. And when at length the 
 notice appeared, there was equally great anxiety to have 
 the government demand every inch of territory that could 
 be claimed under the most strict construction of the 
 Florida treaty ; i. c., as far north as latitude 54° 40'. 
 
 So much had the subject been discussed, and so greatly 
 had the feeling against the Hudson's Bay Company's mo- 
 no['oly been strengthened since the colonization of Ore- 
 gon by the Americans, that the people did not take into 
 consideration the Mexican War, nor the designs of the 
 British government on California, but adopted for their 
 watchword "fifty-four forty or fight," with the greatest en- 
 thusiasm; as if the "universal Yankee nation" need not 
 fear the combined attacks of England, Mexico, and Cali- 
 fornia, with twenty or thirty thousand Indians thrown in. 
 
 That government was more cautious, was perhaps a 
 gain to our territorial possessions, of California, although 
 by it we lost some degrees of less desirable soil. How- 
 ever that may be, both the British lion and the American 
 eagle kept watch and guard over Oregon in that summer 
 of suspense, 1846. About the close of that year there 
 were fifteen English vessels of war in the Pacific, and 
 vight American war vessels ; — there had been nine. The 
 total number of guns in the English squadron was 335 j in 
 the American, 310. 
 
 Agreeably to the promise which Dr. McLaughlin had 
 received from the British Admiral, H. B. M. Sloop of war 
 ilndeste had arrived in the Columbia River in the month 
 of October, 1845, and had wintered there. Much as the 
 
 ^h 
 
 ^•i 
 
380 
 
 LOSS OF THE SHARK. 
 
 , ! ■,' ' 
 
 Doctor had wished for protection from possible outbreaks, 
 ho yet felt that the presence of a British man-of-war in 
 the Cohimbia, and another one in Puget Sound, was offen- 
 sive to the colonists. He set himself to cover up as care- 
 fully as possible the disagreeable features of the British 
 lion, by endeavoring to establish social intercourse between 
 the officers of the Modeste and the ladies and gentlemen 
 of the colony, and his endeavors were productive of a 
 partial success. ' •(.•.lii;' ; 
 
 During the summer, however, the United States Schooner 
 Shark appeared in the Columbia, thus restoring the balance 
 of power, for the relief of national jealousy. After re- 
 maining for some weeks, the Shark took her departure, 
 but was wrecked on the bar at the mouth of the river, 
 according to a prophecy of Meek's, who had a grudge 
 against her co?^ mander, Lieut. Howison, for spoiling the 
 sport he was having in company with one of her officers, 
 while Howison was absent at the Cascades. 
 
 It appears that Lieut. Schenck was hospitably inclined, 
 and that on receiving a visit from the hero of many bear- 
 fights, who proved to be congenial on the subject of good 
 liquors, he treated both Meek and himself so freely as to 
 render discretion a foreign power to either of them. Va- 
 ried and brilliant were the exploits performed by these 
 jolly companions during the continuance of the spree; 
 and still more brilliant were those they talked of perform- 
 ing, even the taking of the Modeste, which was lying a 
 little way off, in front of Vancouver. Fortunately for the 
 good of all concerned, Schenck contented himself with 
 firing a salute as Meek was going over the side of the ship 
 on leaving. But for this misdemeanor he was put under 
 arrest by Howison, on his return from the Cascades, an in- 
 dignity which Meek resented for the prisoner, by assuring 
 Lieut. Howison that he would lose his vessel before he 
 
7P""^nPK^'"?F"^ 
 
 THE LONG SUSPENSE OVER. 
 
 381 
 
 trot out of the river. And lose her he did. Schenck Avas 
 released after the vessel struck, escaping with the other 
 officers and crew by means of small boats. Very few arti- 
 cles were saved from the wreck, but among those few was 
 the stand of colors, wh^ch Lieut. Ilowison subsequently 
 presented to Gov. Abernethy for the colony's encourage- 
 ment and use. News of the Treaty which defined the 
 Oregon boundary having been just received, Lieut. Howi- 
 sou concluded his letter to the Governor by saying : "Nor 
 can I omit the occasion to express my gratification and 
 pride that this relict of my late command should be em- 
 phatically the first United States' flag to wave over the 
 undisputed and purely American Territory of Oregon." 
 
 The long agony was over at last ; the boundary ques- 
 tion was settled, but not to the satisfaction of the majority 
 of the people in Oregon. They no more liked the terms- 
 of the treaty, which granted the free navigation of the 
 Columbia to England until the expiration of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company's chai'tor, than they did the fixing of the 
 boundary line at the 49th parallel. However, there was 
 no help for it now, and after one long sigh of disappoint- 
 ment and chagrin, they submitted to necessity ; and, rather 
 sullenly it is true, accepted the fact that seventeen years 
 more they must endure the odious monopoly of the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company. While a few malcontents talked 
 quite openly of a design to take Fort Vancouver, and thus 
 end the business of that Company, the wiser portion of 
 the people interested themselves in the future welfare of 
 the colony, and perhaps a few weie thoughtful enough to 
 remember that the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany in Oregon had some reason to feel disappointed also, 
 inasmuch as, contrary to their expectations, the United 
 States had taken possession of both sides of the Columbia 
 River. - - -^ ; .. .■ -'■ . ■ -h -^- -^' • 
 
 f ii-#- 
 
382 
 
 THE OREGON SPECTATOR. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII 
 
 t*»jU-. 
 
 f'j"»^ 
 
 1846. There had been no winter since the commence- 
 ment of the American settlement which had not had its 
 own particidar causes for agitation, its colonial gossip, and 
 its party divisions. . . r : 
 
 The principal subjects on which the agitation, the gos- 
 sip, and the divisions, were founded, this winter, were 
 first, the treaty, secondly, the immigration, and lastly, the 
 usual jealous dislike toward everything that was British. 
 •Formerly, the news of the colony had been carried from 
 lip to lip alone : but now a newspaper, established in the 
 beginning of the year, and conducted by the "Oregon 
 Printing Association" at Oregon City, had become the 
 medium through which colonial affairs were supposed to 
 be made known. 
 
 And as the editor of the Oregon Spectator had as yet 
 no exchange list, the matter it contained could not but be 
 that which related almost entirely to Oregon affairs. From 
 the following advertisement, which appeared in the first 
 number of the Spectator^ we may learn that the facili- 
 ties for postal communication were, at the best, indif- 
 ferent, 'i 
 
 To PERSONS WISHING TO 8KNi> LETTEB8 East. — The postmastcr-general 
 has contracted with Mr. H. Burns to carry the mail from Oregon City to 
 Weston, in Missouri, for one trip only. Letters mailed at any of the offices, 
 post paid, will be forwarded to any part of the United States. As the mail 
 sent oast, by Mr. Burns, will reach Weston early in the season, it would be 
 advisable for those wisliing to correspond with their friends in the east, to avail 
 themselves of die opportunity. Postage only fifty cents on single sheets. 
 
^: 
 
 EARLY LITERATURE OF OREGON. 
 
 383 
 
 Through the same medium we are informed, by the fol- 
 lowing notices, that the officers of the Modeste^ and the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, were still exerting themselves to 
 allay any irritation of feeling which dissatisfaction with 
 the late treaty might have occasioned in the minds of the 
 Americans. '''• 
 
 Theatre at Vancouver. — That happy ship, (H. B. M. S. " Modeste,") 
 was a scene of mirth and amusement upon Tuesday evening, the " Corps Dra- 
 mati(iiie " again performing before a fashionable and crowded audience. The 
 rauiiical and favorite comedy of " Love in a Village," followed by the " Mock 
 Doctor " and the " Mayor of Garratt," were the plays of the evening, and we 
 have to congratulate the whole performers in having so ably sustained their 
 c.iaracters, and to thank these " tars " for the rich treat afforded us, in the far 
 tffs.', upon this occasion, as well as for the variety of attractions during the 
 past winter. 
 
 Theatre at Vancouver. — The first performance of this season took place 
 on the evening of the 5th instant, on board H. B. M. S. Modeste, by the same 
 party of sailors who got up the drama so credibly, and afforded so much amuse- 
 nunt last winter. Tlie plays were " High life below stairs," " The deuce is in 
 him," and " The Irish Widow;" and to do justice to these companions of the 
 wave, the characters were, if not more ably, equ..lly as well sustained as for- 
 nurly, A numerous audience attended, (front seats graced by a beauteous cir- 
 cle of the, fair sex,) and all appeared much gratified with the fun and mirth of 
 tlicse entertainments. " - 
 
 In addition to the theatrical entertainments, we find 
 mention of balls, races, and picnics, extending through 
 the year-and-a-half during which the Modeste remained in 
 the river. • " ■ ■ 
 
 The Spectator usually contained articles on the resources 
 of the country, intended to instruct the friends of the 
 colony in the East, and also frequent metrical tributes to 
 the loveliness and excellence of the new territory, con- 
 tributed by enthusiastic correspondents. The average 
 amount of poetical ability exhibited in these eimsions was 
 that of a "happy mediocrity;" and yet the local interest 
 which attached to them made them rather attractive read- 
 ing at that time. One stanza selected at random, will 
 25 
 
 -I 
 
 m 
 
 
384 
 
 ADVENTURES OF A SALMON. 
 
 convey the spirit of these productions, quite as well as a 
 more lengthy quotation : 
 
 w 
 
 " Upon Mount Hood I stand, 
 And witJj rapt {^aze exjjlore 
 The valloy, and that patriot band 
 Upon Columbia's shore." 
 
 The author of the following, however, was not either a 
 dull or an unobservant writer ; and we insert his verses as 
 a comical bit of natural history belonging peculiarly to 
 Oregon. 
 
 ADVENTURES OF A 'COLUMBIA SALMON. 
 
 What is yon object which attracts the eye 
 Of the observing traveler, who ascends 
 Columbia's waters, when the summer sky 
 In one soft tint, calm nature's clothing blends : 
 As glittering in the sunbeams down it floats 
 'Till some vile vulture on its carcase gloats ? 
 
 V 
 
 'Tis a poor salmon, which a short time past, ^ 
 
 With thousands of her finny sisters came, " ' ' 
 
 By instinct taught, to seek and find at last, . ^ ,- 
 
 The place that gave her birth, there to remain 
 'Till nature's offices had been discharged, 
 And fry from out the ova had emerged. j 
 
 Her Winter spent amongst the sheltered bays 
 Of the salt sea, where numerous fish of prey, 
 With appetite keen, the number of her days •.!.';■', 
 Would soon have put an end to, could but they 
 Have caught her ; but as they could not, she, 
 Spring having come, resolved to quit the sea : 
 
 And moving with the shoal along the coast, at length 
 She reached the outlet of her native river. 
 There tarried for a little to recruit her strength, 
 So tried of late by cold and stormy weather ; 
 Sporting in playfiil gambols o'er the banks and sands, 
 Chasing the tiny fish frequenting there in bauds. 
 
 '-v*f-i 
 
 '■v> ^r^oi 1)7 
 
ADVENTURES OF A SALMON. 
 
 385 
 
 "But ah, how little thought this simple fiah, 
 The toils and perils she had yet to suffer, 
 The chance she ran of serving as a dish 
 For hungry white men or for Indian's supper, — • , 
 Of enemies in which the stream abounded, 
 When lo ! she's by a fisher's net surrounded. 
 
 Partly conscious of her approaching end, 
 
 She darts with meteoric swiftness to and fro. 
 
 Striking the frail meslies, within which she's penned, 
 
 AVhi(;h bid defiance to her stoutest blow : 
 
 To smaller compass by degrees the snare is drawn, 
 
 When with a leap she clears it and is gone. 
 
 Once more at large with her companions, now 
 Become more cautious from her late escape, 
 She keeps in deeper water and thinks how 
 Foolish she was to get in such a scrape ; 
 As mounting further up the stream, she vies * 
 With other fish in catching gnats and flies. 
 
 And as she qu her way did thus enjoy 
 Life's fleeting moments, there arose a panic 
 Amongst the stragglers, who in haste deploy 
 Aroimd their elder leaders, quick as magic. 
 While she unconscious of the untimely rout, 
 Was by a hungry otter singled out : 
 
 Vigorous was the chase, on the marked victim shot 
 Through the clear water, while in close pursuit 
 Followe<l her amphibious foe, who scarce had got 
 Near enough to grasp her, when with turns acute, 
 And leaps and revolutions, she so tried the otter. 
 He gave up the hunt with merely having bit her. 
 
 Scarce had she recovered from her weakness, when 
 An ancient eagle, of the bald-head kind. 
 Winging his dreary way to'rds some lone glen. 
 Where was her nest witli four plump eaglets lined, 
 Espied the fish, which he judgi>d quite a treat. 
 And just the morsel for his little ones to eat: 
 
 And sailing in spiral circles o'er the spot, ^' ' 
 
 Where lay his prey, then hovering for a time, 
 To take his wary aim, he stooped and caught 
 His booty, which he carried to a lofty pine ; 
 Upon whose topmost branches, he first adjusted 
 His awkward load, ere with his claws he crushed it. 
 
 i^fl 
 
 n 
 
386 
 
 ADVENTURES OF A SALMON. 
 
 " 111 is the wind that blows no person good " — 
 So said the adage, and as luck would have it, 
 A huge grey eagle out in search of food, 
 Who just had whet his hunger with a rabbit, 
 Attacked the other, and tlie pair together, 
 In deadly combat fell into the river. 
 
 Our friend of course made off, when she'd done falling 
 
 Some sixty yards, and well indeed she might; 
 
 For ne'er, perhaps, a fish got such a mauling 
 
 Since Adam's time, or went up such a height 
 
 Into the air, and came down helter-skelter, 
 
 As did this poor production of a melter. . ^ 
 
 All these, witli many other dangers, she survived, 
 Too manifold in this short space to mention ; 
 So we'll suppose her to have now arrived 
 Safe at the Falls; without much more detention 
 Than one'could look for, where so many liked her 
 Company, and so many Indians spiked her. 
 
 And here a mighty barrier stops her way : 
 Tlie tranquil wate», finding in its course 
 Itself beset with rising rocks, which lay 
 As though they said, " retire ye to your source," 
 Bursts with indignant fury from its bondage, now 
 Rushes in foaming torrents to the chasm below. 
 
 The persevering fish then at the foot arrives. 
 Laboring with redoubled vigor mid the surging tide, 
 And finding, by her strength, she vainly strives 
 To overcome the flood, though o'er and o'er she tried ; 
 Her tail takes in her mouth, and bending like a bow 
 That 's to full compass drawn, aloft herself doth throw ; 
 
 And spinning in the air, as would a silver wand 
 That's bended end to end and upwards cast, ,. 
 Headlong she falls amid the showering waters, and 
 Gasping for breath, against the rocks is dashed : 
 Again, again she vaults, again she tries. 
 And in one last and feeble efibrt — dies. - ,■ 
 
 
 
 There was, in Oregon City, a literary society called the 
 Falls Association," some of whose effusions were occa- 
 sionally sent to the Spectator, and this may have been one 
 
 If 
 
 lUJ, 
 
THE SOUTHERN ROUTE TO THE WALLAMET. 
 
 387 
 
 of them. At all events, it is plain that with balls, the- 
 atres, literary societies, and politics, the colony was not 
 afflicted with dullness, in the winter of 1846. 
 
 But the history of the immigration this year, afforded, 
 perhaps, more material for talk than any one other sub- 
 ject. The condition in which the immigrants arrived was 
 one of great distress. A new road into the valley had 
 been tliat season explored, at great labor and expense, by 
 a company ot gentlemen who had in view the aim to 
 lessen the perils usually encountered in descending the 
 Columbia, They believed that a better pass might be 
 discovered through the Cascade range to the south, than 
 that which had been found around the base of Mount 
 Hood, and one which should bring the immigrants in at 
 the upper end of the valley, thus saving them consid- 
 erable travel and loss of time at a season of the year 
 when the weather was apt to be unsettled. 
 
 With this design, a party had set out to explore the 
 Cascades to the south, quite early in the spring ; but fail- 
 ing in their undertaking, had returned. Another com- 
 pany was then immediately formed, headed by a promi- 
 nent member of society and the legislature. This com- 
 pany followed the old Hudson's Bay Company's trail, 
 crossing all those ranges of mountains perpendicular to 
 the coast, which form a triple wall between Oregon and 
 California, until they came out into the valley of the Hum- 
 boldt, whence they proceeded along a nearly level, but 
 chiefly barren country to Fort Hall, on the Snake River. 
 
 The route was found to be practicable, although there 
 was a scarcity of grass and water along a portion of it ; 
 but as the explorers had with great difficulty found out 
 and marked all the best camping grounds, and encoun- 
 tered first for themselves all the dangers of a hitherto un- 
 explored region, most of which they believed they had 
 
 V 
 
388 
 
 TRAGIC FATE OF IMMIGRANTS. 
 
 overcome, they felt no hesitation in recommending the 
 new road to the emigrants whom they met at Fort Hall. 
 
 Being aware of the hardships which the immigrants of 
 the previous years had undergone on the Snake River 
 plains, at the crossing of Snake River, the John Day, and 
 Des Chutes Rivers, and the passage of the Columbia, tlie 
 travelers gladly accepted the tidings of a safer route to 
 the Wallamet. A portion of the immigration had already 
 gone on by the road to the Dalles ; the remainder turned 
 off by the southern route. 
 
 Of those who took the new route, a part were destined 
 for California. All, however, after passing through the 
 sage deserts, committed the error of stopping to recruit 
 their cattle and horses in the fresh green valleys among 
 the foot-hills of the mountains. It did not occur to 
 . them that they were wasting precious time in this way ; 
 but to this indulgence was owing an hicredible amount of 
 suffering. The California-bound travelers encountered 
 the season of snow on the Sierras, and such horrors are 
 recorded of their sufferings as it is seldom the task of ears 
 to hear or pen to record. Snow-bound, without food, 
 those who died of starvation were consumed by the liv- 
 ing ; even children were eaten by their once fond parents, 
 with an indifference horrible to think on : so does the 
 mind become degraded by great physical suffering. 
 
 The Oregon immigrants had not to cross the lofty Sier- 
 ra^ ; but they still found mountains before them which, iu 
 the dry season, would have been formidable enough. In-^ 
 stead, however, of the dry weather continuing, very heavy 
 rains set in. The streams became swollen, the mountain 
 sides heavy and slippery with the wet earth. Where the 
 .road led through canyons, men and women were some- 
 . times forced to stem a torrent, breast high, and cold 
 enough to chill the life iu their veins. The cattle gave 
 
 M 
 
 III 
 
 Ik • 
 
AN EXCITING WINTER. 
 
 389 
 
 out, the 'vagoiis broke clown, provisions became exhausted, 
 and a few persons perished, wliile all were in the direst 
 i^traits. 
 
 The first who got through into the valley sent relief to 
 those behind ; but it was weeks before the last of the 
 worn, weary, and now impoverished travelers escaped 
 from the horrors of the mountains in which they were so 
 hopelessly entangled, and where most of their worldly 
 goods were left to rot. 
 
 This unfortunate termination to their hopes of a south- 
 ern road had a dispiriting influence on the colony ; inas- 
 much, too, as some of the immigrants who had suffered 
 most loss, were disposed to lay the blame of it upon those 
 gentlemen who, with so much effort, had marked out the 
 new route. It did not soften the acrimony of this class of 
 persons to be assured that those who had arrived by the 
 Cai^cadcs were in fully as bad a plight, in many instances, 
 as themselves. They could not forgive the innocent first- 
 cause of their own particular ills. Feuds grew out of 
 thoir bitter indignation, which only a life-time could heal : 
 aud thus it was, that with all these impoverished new- 
 comers making demands on their sympathy, each with the 
 tale of his own peculiar woes to relate, there was plenty 
 of excitement among the colonists that winter. 
 
 The Oregon legislature met as usual, to hold its winter 
 session, though the people hoped and expected it would 
 be for the last time under the Provisional Government. 
 There were only two " mountain-men " in the House, at 
 this session — Meek and Newell. There were also two 
 Hudson's Bay Company men, from the counties on the 
 north side of the river, showing an improvement in the 
 public sentiment, since the settlement of the boundary 
 question. In all, there were but fifteen members. Of the 
 three nominees for Speaker of the House, Meek was one, 
 but failed of the election. 
 
 
390 
 
 DIVOUCBS GUANTED. 
 
 A :'■ 
 
 There was no very important business before the legis 
 laturo at this session. Considerable ellbrt was made to get 
 a bill through, regulating the manulaeture and sale of 
 wine and distilled spirituous liquors. After considerable 
 discussion the bill passed the House, and was vetoed by 
 the Governor, but finally was passed over the veto, by a 
 two-thirds vote, this being the first successful attempt to 
 legalize the sale of ardent spirits in Oregon. 
 
 Wheat still remaining a legal tender. Meek introduced 
 a bill for its inspection, having probably learned from his 
 experience as tax collector, that the people were sometimes 
 inclined to cheat the government. 
 
 The Provisional Government had not provided for a di- 
 vorce law suited to the wants of the country, and it was 
 therefore only by special act of the legislature that divorces 
 could be obtained. Several applications had been made, 
 in the form of bills praying for a release from the bonds 
 of matrimony. In every case but one these applications 
 came from the sterner sex, and with various success. In 
 this one case, the applicant had failed to enlist the sympa- 
 thies of the committee to whom her case was referred, and 
 there was every prospect that the legislature would ad- 
 journ without acting upon her petition. 
 
 in this emergency the lady sought out our hero, who 
 could never refuse a lady's request, and entreated him to 
 exert himself in her behalf, to procure her a divorce from 
 her lord no longer loved. Accordingly the bill was pre- 
 pared, but not presented to the House until the last 
 moment before the close of the session, when it was hurried 
 over, considered engrossed, read a third time, voted on 
 and passed in a very brief space of time, to the entire satis- 
 faction of both. Meek and his protege. 
 
 -■' ' 1.^ 
 
 / /.'; 
 
li 
 
 THE BEGINNING OF OUEGON COMMEUCE. 
 
 391 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 1847. There were no events to make remarkable the 
 spring ahd summer of 1847. Oregon had a promifc^ing 
 commerce growing up with California, the principal arti- 
 cles of export being flour and lumber. In the month 
 of April alone there went out of the Columbia River 
 1736 barrels of flour, 200,000 feet of lumber, and over 
 200,000 shingles. Of this amount about half was furnished 
 by the Hudson's Bay Company's mills, the remainder by 
 the mills of the colony. Letters were received from Cali- 
 fornia, giving notice that at least 20,000 barrels of flour 
 would be needed in that country in the fall. Of this quan- 
 tity the colonists expected to be able to supply one-half 
 Money now began to come into the colony, and the fu- 
 ture looked promising. 
 
 To forward the cause of education, the Oregon Printing 
 Association made a reprint of Wehster^s Elementary Sjiell- 
 ing-Book, without so much as saying "by your leave" to 
 the owners of the copy-right, and probably justified the 
 tlieft upon the strength of the adage that "necessity 
 knows no law." :. • : ; v-'-'' ' : ■ ■Z'''}-^ 
 
 Oregon certainly furnished, in her colonial condition, an 
 example to the world scarcely second in interest to that 
 of the Pilgrims of the New England colonies, such was 
 the determined patriotism, the temperance, the industry, 
 and the wonderful success of her undertakings. We have 
 attempted, without being too diffuse, to show by what de- 
 
 ■t\ 
 
392 
 
 THE FOUNDATIONS OP A NEW STATE. 
 
 grees, assisted by those whom they in their patriotism felt 
 bound to regard as foes, they proceeded step by sUn to- 
 ward the goal of their desires — the founding of a new 
 state. Divers were the errors they committed, and roii4 
 and unpolished was the material out of which the edifice 
 was to be erected ; nevertheless it was well and strongly 
 built, the foundation being civil liberty, the superstructure 
 temperance, good morals, and education. These things 
 the colonists had struggled for., and so far had maintained, 
 and they were now looking for their reward. That Gov- 
 ernment which they so loved, regarding it as children re- 
 gard a fond parent, and to which they had addressed so 
 many prayers and entreaties in all these years, was about 
 to take them under it° foctering care, and to accept from 
 their hands the filial gift of a vigorous young state. 
 
 In the suspense under which they for the present re- 
 mained, there was nothing to do but to go on in the path 
 of duty as they had heretofore done, keeping up their 
 present form of government until it was supplanted by a 
 better one. So passed the summer until the return of the 
 "Glorious Fourth," which, being the first national anni- 
 versarj'- occuring since the news of the treaty had reached 
 the colony, was celebrated with proper enthusiasm. 
 
 It chanced that an American ship, the Brutus, Capi 
 Adams, from Boston, was lying in the Wallamet, and that 
 a general invitation had been given to the celebrationists 
 to visit the ship during the day. A party of fifty or sixty, 
 including Meek and some of his mountain associates, had 
 made their calculations to go on board at the same time, 
 and were in fact already alongside in boats, when Captain 
 Adams singled out a boat load of people belonging to the 
 mission clique, and inviting them to come on board, or- 
 dered all the others off. 
 
 This was an insult too great to be borne by mountain- 
 
AN INDIGNITY RESENTED. 
 
 393 
 
 nien,wlio resented it not only for themselves, but for the peo- 
 ple's party of Americans to which they naturally belonged. 
 Their ])lood was up, and without stopping to deliberate, 
 Meek and Newell hurried off to fetch the twelve-pounder 
 ;,iat had a few hours before served to thunder forth the 
 ivjoiciiigs of a free people, but with which they now pur- 
 posed to proclaim their indignation as freeman heinously 
 insulted. The little twelve-pound cannon was loaclod with 
 roek, and got into range with the offending ship, and there 
 is little doubt that Capt. Adams would have suifered loss 
 at the hands of the incewsed multitude, but for the timely 
 interference of Dr. McLaughlin. On being informed of 
 liie warlike intent' ons of Meek and his associates, the good 
 Doctor came running to the rescue, his white hair flowing 
 back from his noble face with the hurry of his movements. 
 
 '•Oh, oh, Mr. Joe, Mr, Joe, you must not do this! in- 
 deed, you must not do this foolish thing ! Come now ; 
 come away. You will injure your country, Mr. Joe. How 
 Clin you expect thr.i ships will como hei e, if they arc fired 
 on? Come away, come away!" 
 
 And Meek, ever full of wagishness, even in his wrath, 
 replied : 
 
 '•Doctor, it is not that I love the Brutus less, but my 
 dignity more." 
 
 "Oh, Shakespeare, Mr. Joe! But come with me ; come 
 with me." '" " • • *• • 
 
 And so the good Doctor, half in authority, half in kind- 
 ness, persuaded the resentful colonists to pass by the favor- 
 itism of the Boston captain. •" : .^ '":'' ' -. 
 
 Meek was reelected to the legislature this summer, and 
 swam out to a vessel lying down at the mouth of the 
 IVidlaniet, to get liquor to treat his constituents; from 
 which circumstance it may be inferred that while Oregon 
 was remarkable for temperance, there were occasions on 
 
 
 ■;« 
 
394 FAILURE OF THE TERRITORIAL GOVERNMENT BILL. 
 
 which conviviality was deemed justifiable by a portion of 
 her people. 
 
 Thus passed the summer. The autumn brought news 
 of a large emigration en route for the new territory ; but 
 it brought no news of good import from Congress. On 
 the contrrry the bill providing for a territorial government 
 for Oregon had failed, because the Organic Laws of that 
 territory excluded slavery forevoi from the country. The 
 history of its failure is a part f j d oei of the record of 
 the long hard struggle of the sciUi .o oxtend slavery into 
 the United States' territories. 
 
 One crumb of comfort, however, accompanied the in- 
 telligence of this disappointment ; and that was a letter 
 from the indefatigable friend of Oregon, Thomas H. Ben- 
 ton, of which the following is a copy : . ., 
 
 Washington City, March, 1847. 
 
 My Friends : — (For such I may call many of you from personal acquaint- 
 ance, and all of you from my thirty years ilevotion to the inter<!sts of yourciira- 
 try) — I think it riii;ht to make this communication to you at ih<. pv( sent moment, 
 when the adjotirnment of Congress, without passing the bi;' f >" your govi'rn- 
 ment and protection, seems to have left you in a state of ■:• 'dor iH ut by your 
 mother country. But such is not the case. You are n . i •;r'ic;)'dl norwill 
 you be denied protection unless you agrne to admit slave. j. .' u .lanoftLe 
 South, and a slaveholder, tell yon this. 
 
 The Mouse of Representatives, as early as the middle of January, had passed 
 the bill to give you a Tei-ritorial Government ; and in that bill had Hant'tiontil 
 and legalized jour Provisional Organic Act, one of the clauses of which forcvir 
 prohibited the existence of slavery in Oregon. An amendment from the Sen- 
 ate's (jonunittee, to which this bill was referred, proposed to abrogate that pro- 
 hibition ; and in the delays and vcxati'^"- to which that amendment gave rise, 
 the whole bill was '.aid upon the tabl'' ini* jst for the fossion. Tliis will be a 
 great disappointment to you and a real calamity, alrei^ v ve years without .... , 
 or legal institutions for the protection of life, liberty), inu f/roperty, ami now 
 doomed to wait a year longer. Tliis is a strange and ■ ;• ' ..ii Jcu.-* condition! 
 almost incredible to contemplate, and most critical to endure I a colony nf free 
 men, four thousand miles fr-m *W Metropolitan government, and without law 
 or government to p (-serv.> them I ^>>r.f '!o not be alarmed, or desperate. You 
 will not be o\itlawed for not admv':, ,. iavery. Your fundamental act against 
 that institution, copied from the Or^li nance of 1787 — (the work of tho great 
 
s'MENT BILL 
 
 by a portion of 
 
 ^ brought news 
 
 territory ; but 
 
 Congress. On 
 
 rial government 
 
 ic Laws of that 
 
 country. The 
 
 )f the record of 
 
 snd slavery into 
 
 ipanied the in- 
 lat was a letter 
 'homas H. Ben- 
 
 ?Y, March, 1847. 
 
 personal acquaint- 
 iterr!sts of yourcMiii- 
 . tbi.; pn sent momen^ 
 nil io" your govcrii- 
 ■..•'.'iloPiK nt by your 
 ■ ■1 :;:';Oii-d! nor will 
 ■..J. .' u .lanoftLc 
 
 January, had passed 
 bill had sant'tioiiud 
 ises of which forever 
 Inient from the Sen- 
 o abrogate that pro 
 nendmcnt gave rise, 
 ion. This will be a 
 <' years withoiu m.., 
 >yrapcrty, and now 
 '-.jJouj condition! 
 re I a colony of free 
 at, and without law 
 or desperate. You 
 arnental act against 
 ) work of the great 
 
 LETTER FROM THOMAS H. BENTON. 
 
 395 
 
 men of t'lC SoUTU, in the great day of the South, prohibiting slavery in a 
 TFiiiuToKY fur less northerr tlian yours) — will not be abrogated! nor is that 
 the intention of the prime mover of the amendment. Upon the record of the 
 JiKJieinrv committee of the Senate is the author of that amendment ; but not 
 so ;lie fact ! It is only mid-wife to it. Its author is the same mind that genera- 
 ted the "FiuE Brand Resolutions," of which I send you a copy, .'nd of 
 wliich the amendment is the legitimate derivation. Oregon is not the object. 
 llie most rabitl propagandist of slavery cannot expect to plant it on tlie shores 
 of the Pacific, in the latitude of Wisconsin and the Lake of the Woods. A 
 home ai'itation, for election and disunion purposes, is all tnat is intended by 
 thrustiii" this fire-brand question into your bill ! and, at the next ses.sion, when 
 it is thriust in aga''.«, we will scourge it out ! and pass your bill as it ought to be. 
 1 promise you *his in the name of the South as well as of the North ; and 
 the event will not deceive me. In the meantime, the President will give you 
 all the protection which exi:iting laws, and detachments cf the army and navy, 
 can enable him to extend to you ; and, until Congress has time to axit, your 
 liiends must rely upon you to continue to govern yourselves, as you have here- 
 tofore done, under the provisions of your own voluntary compact, and with the 
 jiislice, harmony, and moderation which is due to your own character and to 
 the honor of the American name. 
 
 I send you, by Mr. Shively, a copy of the bill of the late session, both as it 
 passed the House of Representatives and as proposed to be amended in the 
 Senate, with the Senate's vote upon laying it on the table, and a copy of Mr. 
 Calhoun's resolutions — (posterior in date to the amendniont, but, nevertheless, 
 its fathei ) — also a copy of your own Provis'onal Organic Act, printed by order 
 of the Sen.He ; all which will put you completely in possession of the proceed- 
 in;rs of Congress on your Petition for a Territorial Government, and for the 
 protection and security of your rights. 
 
 In conclusion. I have to assure you that the same spirit which ha? made me 
 the friend of Oregon for thirty years — wliich led me to denounce the joint oc- 
 cupation treaty the day it was made, an'I to oppose its renewal in 1828, and to 
 labor for its abrogation uitil it was te* minated ; the same spirit which led me 
 to reveal the grand destiny of Orego.i in articles written in 1818, and to sup- 
 port every measure for her bei:?<it rince — this same spirit still animates me, and 
 will continue to do "O while I live — which, I hope, will be long enough to see 
 an eni{X)rium of Asiatic commerce at the mouth of your river, and a stream of 
 Asiatic trade pouring into the Valley of the Mississippi through the channel of 
 Oregon. 
 
 Your (riend and fellow citizen, 
 
 Thomas H. Benton. 
 
 In addition to this valuable bit of comfort and of his- 
 tory, another letter, written by James Buchanan, Secretary 
 of State, and conveying President Polk's regrets that no 
 
396 
 
 AFFRAY BETWEEN IMMIGRANTS AND INDIANS. 
 
 more had been done for Oregon, was presented to the 
 colonists by its bearer, who had also brought the commu- 
 nication of Senator Benton. This gentleman was a Mr. 
 Sliively, one of the two postmasters appointed for Ore"on 
 Territory. Here was all that Congress, after much effort 
 had been able to accomplish — the appropriation of money 
 for transporting the mails to Oregon via the Isthmus of 
 Panama ; the establishment of a post-office at Astoria, and 
 another at Oregon City ; and the appointment of an In- 
 dian agent, whose inefficiency was patent to all Oregon ! 
 Mr. Buchanan's letter, however, contained a promise of a 
 regiment of mounted riflemen to protect the emigration; 
 and war vessels to visit Oregon waters as often as practi- 
 cable. /■«• : 
 
 Justly dissatisfied, but not inconsolable, the colony, now 
 that hope was extinguished for another season, returned 
 to its own affairs. The immigration, which had arrived 
 early this year, amounted to between four and five thou- 
 sand. An unfortunate affray between the immigrants and 
 the Indians at the Dalles, had frightened away from that 
 station the Rev. Father Waller ; and Dr. Whitman of the 
 Waiilatpu mission had purchased the station for the Pres- 
 byterian mission, and placed a nephew of his in charge. 
 Although, true to their original bad character, the Dalles 
 Indians had frequently committed theft upon the passing 
 emigration, this was the first difficulty resulting in loss 
 of life, which had taken place. This quarrel arose out of 
 some thefts committed by the Indians, and the unwise ad- 
 vice of Mr. Waller, in telling the immigrants to retaliate 
 by taking some of the Indian horses. An Indian can see 
 the justice of taking toll from every traveler passing 
 through his country ; but he cannot see the justice of be- 
 ing robbed in return ; and Mr. Waller had been long 
 enough among them to have known this savage peculiar- 
 
THE FIRST DELEGATE TO CONGRESS. 
 
 397 
 
 ity, 111 the skirmish which followed this act of retaliation, 
 one of the immigrants was killed, two seriously wounded, 
 and several others driven into the mountains for safety. 
 The chief of the Wascopams, or Dalles Indians, was killed, 
 and several of the tribe wounded. Fearing the design 
 of the immigrants was to make war on them, they re- 
 moved back into the mountains. And thus was inaugu- 
 rated a series of Indian difficulties which har^assed the 
 inhabitants of the territory for the next ten years. 
 
 Following the arrival of the immigration and the ex- 
 tinguishment of the colony's hopes of a territorial gov- 
 ernment, a movement was put on foot among the mem- 
 bers of the Mission party, to send a delegate to Congress, 
 charged with instructions to that body concerning the 
 wants and wishes of the future Territory. The gentle- 
 man selected by the Governor, for this mission, was J. Q. 
 Thornton, at that time Chief Justice of the colony, and a 
 man of undoubted ability. But as he did not go as a del- 
 egate from thf^ legislature, and only by appointment of 
 the Governor, with the sanction of the Mission party, 
 there was considerable dissatisfaction with the action of 
 Governor Abernethy, and the legislature passed certain 
 resolutions expressive of its sense of the impropriety of 
 "secret factions" in the colony. The event has since 
 proven that no harm was done, but probably considerable 
 good, by the extraordinary delegate, who chanced to be 
 in Washington at a critical time for the interests of Ore- 
 gon. 
 
 But the manner in which the delegate was equipped 
 for the journey is unprecedented in the annals of the 
 whole country. Had he been a regularly chosen delegate 
 from the legislature, — and had the legislature a right to 
 send a delegate to Congress, which it had not, — there was 
 not money enough in the colonial treasury to have paid 
 
 hi 
 
 I m\ 
 
 I t'-' 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 I 
 
 Ha,) 
 
 
398 
 
 STRANDED AT SAN JUAN — PROMPT RESCUE. 
 
 his passage out. Nor had the Governor and his friends 
 money enough for this purpose. As might be conjectured 
 in this case, extraordinary measures had to be adopted to 
 raise the passage money. Subscriptions were taken in 
 any and every thing which could be converted into cur- 
 rency. One contributer gave fifteen barrels of flour ; an- 
 other a little money ; another furnished an outfit of cloth- 
 ing ; and the largest amount of coin raised was one hun- 
 dred and fifty dollars. 
 
 Passage was secured on the bark Whitton^ Captain 
 Ghelston, who agreed to carry to New York, but failed 
 to do so. At San Francisco the delegate made sale of 
 his flour and other commodities, and Captain Ghelston 
 obtained so favorable an opinion of the profits of a coast- 
 ing trade, that when he had arrived at San Juan on the 
 Mexican coast, he threw "ap his contract to carry his pas- 
 senger CO New York, leaving him to proceed as best he 
 could. Fortunately, the United States sloop of war 
 Portsmouth, Captain Montgomery, was lying at this port. 
 She was a part of the squadron which had been guarding 
 the American interests in the Pacific during the previous 
 year ; and when Captain Montgomery learned the situa- 
 tion of the Oregon representative, he took the liberty of 
 construing his instructions to "rescue American ministers 
 in foreign ports" from difficulties into which they might 
 have fallen through various causes, to mean that he was 
 to convey this stranded delegate to his destination, which 
 he immediately proceeded to do. Therefore it may be 
 reckoned that the whole transaction of appointing and 
 conveying the first Oregon delegate to Washington was 
 decidedly unique, as well as somewhat expensive. 
 
 Finding that it must continue yet a little longer to look 
 after its own government and welfa.e, the colony had 
 settled back into its wonted pursuits. The legislature 
 
FALLING OF THE THUNDERBOLT. 
 
 399 
 
 had convened for its winter session, and had hardly elected 
 its ofiicers and read the usual message of the Governor, 
 before there came another, which fell upon their ears like 
 a thunderbolt. Gov. Abernethy had sent in the following 
 letter, written at Vancouver the day before : 
 
 Fort Vancouvek, Dec. 7, 1847, 
 
 George Ahernethy, Esq. ; 
 
 Sill ;— Having received intelligence, last night, by special express from 
 Walla- AValla, of the destruction of the missionary settlement at Waiilatpu, by 
 the Cayuse Indians of that place, we hasten to communicate the particulars of 
 that dreadful event, one of the most atrocious which darkens the annals of In- 
 dian crime. 
 
 Our lamented friend. Dr. Wliitman, his amiable and accomplished lady, with 
 nine other persons, have fallen victims to the fury of these remorseless savages, 
 who api)ear to have been instigated to this appalling crime by a horrible sus- 
 picion which had taken possession of their superstitious minds, in consequence 
 of the number of deaths froui dysentery and measles, that Dr. Whitman was 
 silently working the destruction of their tribe by administering poisonous drugs, 
 under the semblance of salutary medicines. 
 
 With a goodness of heart and benevolence truly his own, Dr. Whitman had 
 been laboring incessantly since the appearance of the measles and dysentery 
 among his Indian converts, to relieve their sufferings ; and such has been the 
 reward of his generous labors. 
 
 A copy of Mr. McBean's letter, herewith transmitted, will give you all the 
 particulars known to us of this indescribably painful event. 
 
 Mr. Ogden, with a strong party, will leave this place as soon as possible for 
 Walla- Walla, to endeavor to prevent further evil ; and we beg to suggest to 
 you the propriety of taking instant measures for the protection of the Rev. Mr. 
 Spalding, who, for the sake of his family, ought to abandon the Clear-water 
 mission without delay, and retire to a place of safety, as he cannot remain at 
 that isolated station without imminent risk, in the present excited and irritable 
 state of the Indian population. . ^ 
 
 I have the honor to be, sir, your most obedient servant, 
 
 JAMES LCUGLAS. 
 
 .-,. / » 
 
 ■ .:i' 
 
 ■ ».t- 
 
 i T ■■■< 
 
 ' '-'7 \ * 
 
 m 
 
 ,-^f,-'^'i- 
 
 -/« 
 
400 
 
 THE UP-COUNTB,Y INDIANS^ 
 
 ■ ■ i 
 1 " 
 
 ■ ; i' - ' 
 
 1 ... J 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 I 
 
 1842-7. Doubtless the reader remembers the disquiet 
 felt and expressed by the Indians in the upper country in 
 the years 1842-3, when Dr. White was among them, lest the 
 Americans should take away their lands from them with- 
 out payment. For the time they had been quieted by 
 presents, by the advice of the Hudson's Bay Company^ 
 and by the Agent's promise that in good time the United 
 States would send them blankets, guns, ammunition, food 
 farming implements, and teachers to show them how to 
 live like the whites. 
 
 In the meantime, five years having passed, these prom- 
 ises had not been kept. Five times a large number of 
 whites, with their children, their cattle, and wagons, had 
 passed through their country, and gone down into the 
 Wallamet Valley to settle. Now they had learned that 
 the United States claimed the Wallamet valley ; yet they 
 had never heard that the Indians of that country had re- 
 ceived any pay for it. 
 
 They had accepted the religion of the whites beheving 
 it would do them good ; but now they were doubtful. 
 Had they not accepted laws from the United Stati s agent, 
 and had not their people been punished for acts which 
 their ancestors and themselves had always before commit- 
 ted at will ? None of these innovations seemed to do 
 them any good : th«'^y were disappointed. But the whites, 
 or Bostons, (meaning the Americans) were coming more 
 
CAUSES OF THKm DISQUIET. 
 
 401 
 
 and more every year, so that by-and-by there would be 
 all Bostons and no Indians. 
 
 Oiico they had trusted in the words of the Americans ; 
 but now they knew how worthless were their promises. 
 The Americans had done them much harm. Years before 
 had not one of the missionaries suffered several of their 
 people, and the son of one of their chiefs, to be slain in 
 his company, yet himself escaped? Had not the son of 
 another chief who had gone to California to buy cattle, 
 been killed by a party of Americans, for no fault of his 
 own ? Their chief's son was killed, the cattle robbed from 
 his party, after having been paid for; and his friends 
 obliged to return poor and in grief 
 
 To be sure, Dr. White had given them some drafts to 
 be used in obtaining cattle from the immigration, as a 
 compensation for their losses in California ; but they could 
 not make them available ; and those who wanted cattle 
 had to go down to the Wallamet for them. In short, 
 could the Indians have thought of an American epithet to 
 apply to Americans, it would have been that expressive 
 word humbug. What they felt and what they thought, 
 was, that they had been cheated. They feared greater 
 frauds in the future, and they were secretly resolved not 
 to submit to them. ^ •« 
 
 So far as regarded the missionaries. Dr. Whitman and 
 his associates, they were divided ; yet as so many looked 
 on the Doctor gs an agent in promoting the settlement of 
 the country with whites, it was thought best to drive him 
 from the country, together with all the missionaries. Sev- 
 eral years before Dr. Whitman had known that the Indians 
 were displeased with his settlement among them. They 
 had told him of it : they har* treated him with violence ; 
 they had attempted to outrage his wife ; had burned his 
 property; and had more recently several times warned 
 him to leave their country, or they should kill him. 
 
 pi 
 
 4- 
 
 - + - 
 
402 
 
 THEIR FEELINGS TO WARDS DR. WHITMAN. 
 
 Not that all were angry at him alike, or that any were 
 personally very ill-disposed towards him. Every tliiiiif 
 that a man could do to instruct and elevate these sava"-e 
 people, he had done, to the best of his ability, together 
 with his wife and assistants. But he had not been able, or 
 perhaps had not attempted, to conceal the fact, that he 
 looked upon the country as belonging to his people, rather 
 than to the natives, and it was this fact which was at the 
 bottom of their " bad hearts " toward the Doctor. So often 
 had warnings been given which were disregarded by Dr, 
 Whitman, that his friends, both at Vancouver and in the 
 settlements, had long felt great uneasiness, and often be- 
 sought him to remove to the Wallamet valley. 
 * But although Dr. Whitman sometimes was half per- 
 suaded to give up the mission upon the representations of 
 others, he could not quite bring himself to do so. So far 
 as the good conduct of the Indians was concerned, they 
 had never behaved better than for the last two years. 
 There had been less violence, less open outrage, than for- 
 merly ; and their civilization seemed to be progressing ; 
 while some few were apparently hopeful converts. Yet 
 there was ever a whisper in the air — "Dr. Whitman must 
 die." 
 
 The mission at Lapwai was peculiarly successful. Mrs. 
 Spalding, more than any other of the missionaries, had 
 been able to adapt herself to the Indian character, and to 
 gain their confidence. Besides, the Nez Perces were a 
 better nation than the Cayuses ; — more easily controlled 
 by a good counsel ; and it seemed like doing a wrong to 
 abandon the work so long as any good was likely to result 
 from it. There were other reasons too, why the missions 
 could not be abandoned in haste, one of which was the 
 difficulty of disposing of the property. This might have 
 
 «*-'l;'<f 
 
INFLUENCE OF THE CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES. 
 
 403 
 
 been done perhaps, to the Catholics, who were establish- 
 ing missions throughout the upper country ; but Dr. Whit- 
 man would never have been so false to his own doctrines, 
 as to leave the field of his labors to the Romish Church. 
 
 Yet the division of sentiment among the Indians with 
 regard to religion, since the Catholic missionaries had come 
 among them, increased the danger of a revolt : for in 
 the Indian country neither two rival trading companies, 
 nor two rival religions can long prosper side by side. 
 The savage cannot understand the origin of so many re- 
 ligions. He either repudiates all, or he takes that which 
 addresses itself to his understanding through the senses. 
 In the latter respect, the forms of Catholicism, as adapted 
 to the savage understanding, made that religion a danger- 
 ous rival to intellectual and idealistic Presbyterian ism. - 
 But the more dangerous the rival, the greater the firmness 
 with which Dr. Whitman would cling to his duty. 
 
 There were so many causes at work to produce a revo- 
 lution among the Indians, that it would be unfair to name 
 any one as the cause. The last and immediate provoca- 
 tion was a season of severe sickness among them. The 
 disease was measels, and was brought in the train of the 
 immigration. 
 
 This fact alone was enough topr-'^ike the worst pas- 
 sions of the savage. The immigration in itself was a suf- 
 ficient offense ; the introduction through them of a pesti- 
 lence, a still weightier one. It did not signify that Dr. 
 Whitman had exerted himself night and day to give them 
 relief Their peculiar notions about a medicine-man made 
 it the Doctor's duty to cure. the sick; or made it the duty . 
 of the relatives of the dead and dying to avenge their 
 deaths. ^-"^ --'" ' '^ -* ;.;. ■--'■; ,.::v-. 
 
 Yet in spite of all and every provocation, perhaps the 
 fatal tragedy might have been postponed, had it not been 
 
404 
 
 THE FATAL TEST. 
 
 for the evil influence of one Jo Lewis, a halfbreed, who 
 had accompanied the emigration from the vicinity of Port 
 Hall. This Jo Lewis, with a large party of emigrants, 
 had stopped to winter at the mission, much against Dr. 
 Whitman's wishes ; for he feared not having food enough 
 for so many persons. Finding that he could not prevent 
 them, he took some of the men into his employ, and among 
 others the stranger half-breed. 
 
 This man was much about the house, and affected to re- 
 late to the Indians conversations which he heard between 
 Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, and Mr. Spalding, who with his 
 little daughter, was visiting at W' itpu. These conver- 
 sations related, to poisoning the ms, in order to get 
 them all out of the way, so that the white men could en- 
 joy their country unmolested. Yet this devil incarnate 
 did not convince his hearers at once of the truth of his 
 statements ; and it was resolved in the tribe to make a 
 test of Dr. Whitman's medicine. Three persons were se- 
 lected to experiment upon , two of them already sick, and 
 the third quite, well. Whether it was that the medicine 
 was administered in too large quantities, or whether an 
 unhappy chance so ordered it, all those three persons died. 
 Surely it is not singular that in the savage mind this cir- 
 cumstance should have been deemed decisive. It was 
 then that the decree went forth that not only the Doctor 
 and Mrs. Whitman, but all the Americans at the mission 
 must die. 
 
 On the 2 2d of November, Mr. Spalding arrived at 
 Waiilatpu, from his mission, one hundred and twenty 
 miles distant, with his daughter, a child of ten years, 
 bringing with him also several horse-loads of grain, to 
 help feed the emigrants wintering there. He found the 
 Indians suffering very much, dying one, two, three, and 
 sometimes five in a day. Several of the emigrant families. 
 
 lih 
 
THE LAST INTEUVIEW. 
 
 405 
 
 also, were sick with racascls and the dysentery, which fol- 
 lowed the disease. A child of cue of them died the day 
 following Mr. Spalding's arrival. 
 
 Dr. Whitman's family consisted of himself and wife, 
 a young man named Rodgers, who was employed as a 
 teacher, and also studying for the ministry, two young 
 people, a brother and sister, named Bulee, seven orphaned 
 children of one family, whose parents had died on the 
 road to Oregon in a previous year, named Sagor, Helen 
 Mar, the daughter of Joe Meek, another little half-breed 
 gill, daughter of Bridge r the fur-trader, a half-breed 
 Spanish boy whom the Doctor had brought up from in- 
 foncy, and two sons of a Mr. Mauson, of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company. 
 
 Besides these, there were half-a-dozen other families at 
 the mission, and at the saw-mill, twenty miles distant, five 
 families more — in all, forty-six persons at Waiilatpu, and 
 fift(!en at the mill, who were among those who suffered by 
 the attack. But there were also about the mission, three 
 others, Joe Lewis, Nicholas Finlay, and Joseph Stanfield, 
 who probably knew what was about to tak( place, and 
 may, therefore be reckoned as among the conspirators. 
 
 While Mr. Spalding was at Waiilatpu, a message came 
 from two Walla- Walla chiefs, living on the Umatilla River, 
 to Dr. Whitman, desiring him to visit the sick in their 
 villages, and the two friends set out together to attend to 
 the call, on the evening of the 27th of November. Says 
 Mr. Spalding, referring to that time: "The night was 
 dark, and the wind and rain beat furiously upon us. But 
 our interview was sweet. We little thought it was to be 
 our last. With feelings of the deepest emotion we called 
 to mind the fact, that eleven years before, we crossed this 
 trail before arriving at Walla- Walla, the end of our seven 
 months' journey from New York. We called to mind 
 
 in 
 
 I 
 
406 
 
 NIGHT VISIT TO THE UMATILLA. 
 
 the high hopes and thrilling interests which had been 
 awakened during the year that followed — of our success- 
 ful labors and the constant devotedness of the Indians to 
 improvement. True, we remembered the months of deep 
 solicitude we had, occasioned by the increasing menacing 
 dcuiaiids ot the Indians for pay for their wood, their 
 water, their air, their lands. But much of this had passed 
 away, and the Cayuses were in a far more encoiiragi-.ig 
 condition than ever before."' Mr. Spalding further re- 
 lates that himself and Dr. Whitman also conversed on the 
 danger which threatened them from the CathoHc influeucp, 
 "We felt," he says, "that the present sickness afforded 
 them a favorable opportunity to excite the Indians to 
 drive us from the country, and all the movements about 
 us seemed to indicate that this would soon be attempted, 
 if not executed," Such was the suspicion in the minds 
 of the Protestants. Let us hope that it was not so well 
 founded as they believed. 
 
 The two friends arrived laic at the lodge of Stickas, a 
 chief, and laid down before a blazing Ire to dry their 
 drenched clothing. In the morning a ^^ood breakfast was 
 prepared for them, consisting of betf, vegetables, and 
 bread — all of which showed the improvement of the In- 
 dians in the art of living. The day, being Sunday, was 
 observed with as much decorum as in a white man's Louse. 
 After breakfast. Dr. Whitman crossed the river to visit 
 the chiefs who had sent for him, namely, Tan-i-tan^ Five 
 Groivs^ and Yam-ha-wa-lis. returning about four o'clock 
 in the afternoon, saying he had taken tea with the Cath- 
 olic bishop and two priests, at their house, which belonged 
 to Tan-i-tan^ and that they had promised to visit him in a 
 short time. He then departed for the mission, feeling 
 uneasy about the sick one? at home. . / 
 
 Mr. Spalding remained with the intention of visiting; 
 
 J. 
 
''■^ 
 
 STICKAS WARNING — THE DEATH-SONG. 
 
 407 
 
 ich had been 
 r our success- 
 he Indians to 
 lonths of deep 
 jing menacing 
 I' wood, their 
 lis had passed 
 e encouraging 
 ig further re- 
 iversed on the 
 lolic influent^, 
 mess afforded 
 he Indians to 
 ^rements about 
 be attempted, 
 in the minds 
 as not so well 
 
 3 of Sttchas, a 
 
 3 to dry their 
 
 breakfast was 
 
 igetables, and 
 
 lent of the In- 
 
 J Sunday, was 
 
 a man's Louse. 
 
 river to visit 
 
 \n4-tan^ Five 
 
 t four o'clock 
 
 with the Cath- 
 
 hich belonged 
 
 visit him in a 
 
 ission, feeling 
 
 on of visitin 
 
 the sick and offering consolation to the dying. But he 
 gt)on discovered that there was a weighty and uncomfort- 
 able secret on the mind of his entertainer, Stickas. After 
 much questioning, Stickas admitted that the thought which 
 troubled him was that the Americans had been " decreed 
 against" by his people ; more he could not be induced to 
 reveal. Anxious, yet not seriously alarmed, — for these 
 warnings had been given before many times,- -he retired 
 to bis couch of skins, on the evening of the 29th, being 
 Monday — not to sleep, however; for on either side of 
 him an Indian woman sat down to chant the death-song 
 —that frightful lament which announces danger and death. 
 On being questioned they would reveal nothing. 
 
 On the following morning, Mr. Spalding could no longer 
 remain in uncertainty, but set out for Waiilatpu. As he 
 mounted his horse to depart, an Indian woman placed 
 her hand on the neck of his horse to arrest him, and pre- 
 tending to be arranging his headgear, said in a low voice 
 to the rider, " Beware of the Cayuses at the mission," 
 Now more than ever disturbed by this intimation that it 
 was the mission which was threatened, he hurried for- 
 w. d, fearing for his daughter and his friends. He pro- 
 ceoded without meeting anv one until within sight of the 
 lovely Walla-Walla valley, imost in sight of the mission 
 itself, when suddenly, at a wooded spot where the trail 
 passes through a little hollow, he beheld two horsemen 
 advancing, whom he watched with a fluttering heart, 
 lonf/ing for, ond yet di'eading, the news which the very 
 air seemed whispering. 
 
 The two horsemen proved to be the Ci'.Lholic Vicar 
 General, Brouillet, who, with a party of priests and nuns 
 had arrived in the country only a few months previous, 
 and his half-breed interpreter, both of whom were known 
 
 .-i . I-, 
 
y 
 
 408 
 
 MjiETING WITH BROUILLET. 
 
 to Mr. Spalding. They each drew rein as they approacli- 
 ed, Mr. Spalding immediately inquiring "what news?" 
 
 " There are very many sick at the Whitman station " 
 answered Brouillet, with evident embarrassment. 
 
 " How are Doctor and Mrs. Whitman ?" asked Spaldin^ 
 anxiously. 
 
 " The Doctor is ill — is dead," added the priest reluc- 
 tantly. 
 
 "And Mrs. Whitman?" gasped Spalding. ■ '- ' 
 
 " Is dead also. The Indians have killed them." 
 
 " My daughter ?" murmured the agonized questioner, 
 
 " Is safe, with the other prisoners," answered Brouillet. 
 
 "And then," says Spalding in speaking of that moment 
 of infinite horror, when in his imagination a picture of the 
 massacre, of the anguish of his child, the sufiering of the 
 prisoners, of the probable destruction of his own family 
 and mission, and his surely impending fate, all rose up 
 before him — " I felt the world all blotted out at once, and 
 sat on my horse as rigid as a stone, not knowing or feeling 
 anything." 
 
 While this conversation had been going on the half- 
 breed interpreter had kept a sinister watch over the com- 
 munication, and his actions had so suspicious a look that 
 the priest ordered him to ride on ahead. When he had 
 obeyed, Brouillet gave some rapid instructions to Spald- 
 ing ; not to go near the mission, where he could do no 
 good, but would be certainly murdered ; but to fly, to 
 hide himself until the excitement was over. The men at 
 the mission were probably all killed ; the women and 
 children would be spared ; nothing could be done at pres-, 
 ent but to try to save his own life, which the Indians were 
 resolved to take. 
 
 The conversation was hurried, for there was no time to 
 lose, Spalding gave his pack-horse to Brouillet, to avoid 
 
MR. SPALDING S NIGHT JOURNEY. 
 
 409 
 
 ii 
 
 ligiiio- encumbered by it; and taking some provisions 
 ^vliich the priest offered, struck off into the woods there 
 to hitle until dark. Nearly a week from this night he ar- 
 rived at the Lapwai mission, starved, torn, with bleeding 
 foet as well as broken heart. Oblige i to secrete himself 
 by day, his horse had escaped from him, leaving him to 
 perforin his night journeys on foot over the sharp rocks 
 and prickly cactus plants, until not only his shoes had 
 ' ecn worn out, but his feet had become cruelly lacerated. 
 Ihe constant fear which had preyed upon his heart of 
 finding his family murdered, had produced fearful havoc 
 in the life-forces; and although Mr. Spalding had the hap- 
 piness of finding that the Nez Perces had been true to 
 Mrs. Spalding, defending her from destruction, yet so 
 great had been the first shock, and so long cor tinned the 
 strain, that his nervous -system remained a wreck ever 
 afterward. - » 
 
 ?l 
 
 i.^f: 
 
 -y 
 
 ;;..t-. 
 
 .'♦' 
 
410 
 
 THE TRAGEDY AT WAIILATPU. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 1847. When Dr. Whitman reached home on that Sun- 
 clay night, after parting with Mr. Spalding at the Umatilla, 
 it was already about midnight ; yet he visited the sick 
 before retiring to rest ; and early in the morning resumed 
 his duties among them. An Indian died that mornino' 
 At his burial, which the Doctor attended, he observed 
 that but few of the friends and relatives of the deceased 
 were present but attributed it to the fear which the In- 
 dians have of disease. 
 
 Everything about the mission was going on as usual. 
 Quite a number of Indians were gathered about the place; 
 but as an ox was being butchered, the crowd was easily 
 accounted for. Three men were dressing the beef in the 
 yard. The afternoon session of the mission scliool had 
 just commenced. The mechanics belonging to the station 
 were about their various avocations. Young Biilee was 
 sick in the Doctor's house. Three of the orphan children 
 who were recovering from the measles, were with the 
 Doctor and Mrs. Whitman in the sitting-room ; and also a 
 Mrs. Osborne, one of the emigrants who had just got up 
 from a sick bed and who had a sick child in her arms. 
 
 The Doctor liad just come in, wearied, and dejected as it 
 was possible for his resolute spir.'t to be, and had seated 
 himself, bible in hand, when several Indians came to a side 
 door, asking permission to come in and get some medicine. 
 The Doctor rose, got his medicines, gave them out, and 
 
J. 
 
 me on that Sun- 
 at the Umatilla, 
 'isited the sick 
 orning resumed 
 that morniiiff 
 ed, he observed 
 of the deceased 
 ' which the In- 
 
 ng on as usual. 
 ibout the place; 
 owd was easily 
 
 the beef in the 
 don school had 
 g to the station 
 ung Bulce was 
 )rphan children 
 were with the 
 om ; and also a 
 lad just got up 
 in her arms, 
 d dejected as it 
 md had seated 
 3 came to a side 
 some medicine. 
 
 them out, and 
 
■.:M 
 
 -Vfi-*-' 
 
COMMENCEMENT OF THE MASSACRE. 
 
 411 
 
 sat down again. At that moment Mrs. Whitman was in 
 an adjoining room and did not see what followed. Tarn- 
 a-has, a chief called " the murderer," came behind the 
 Doctor's chair, and raising his tomahawk, struck the Doc- 
 tor in the back of the head, stunning but not killing him. 
 
 Instantly there was a violent commotion. John Sager, 
 one of the adopted children, sprang up with his pistol in 
 his hand, but before he could fire it, he too was struck 
 (lo^vn, and cut and hacked shockingly. In the meantime 
 Dr. Whitman had received a second blow upon the head, 
 and now laid lifeless on the floor. Cries and confusion 
 filled the house. 
 
 At the first sound, Mrs. Whitman, in whose ears that 
 whisper in the air had so long sounded, began in agony 
 to stamp upon the fioor, and wring her hands, crying out, 
 "Oh, the Indians, the Indians!" At that moment one of 
 the women from an adjoining building came running in, 
 gasping with terror, for the butchery was going on outside 
 as well, and Tam-a-has and his associates were now assist- 
 ing at it. Going to the room where the Doctor lay insen- 
 sible, Mrs. Whitman and her terrified neighbor dragged 
 him to the sofa and laid him upon it, doing all they could 
 to revive him. To all their inquiries he answered by a 
 whispered "no," probably not conscious what was said. 
 
 While this was being done, tne people from every quar- 
 ter began to crowd into the Doctor's house, many of them 
 wounded. Outside were heard the shrieks of women, the 
 yells of the Indians, the roar of musketry, the noise of fu- 
 rious riding, of meeting war-clubs, groans, and every 
 frightful combination of sound, such as only could be heard 
 at such a carnival of blood. Still Mrs. Whitman sat by 
 her husband's side, intent on trying to rouse him to say 
 one coherent word. '':-''■'■:.■:■''■:..■ ^'-i'-' 
 
 Nearer and nearer came the struggle, and she heard 
 
 rm 
 
412 
 
 THE MURDER OP MRS. WHITMAN. 
 
 I 
 
 „ -. Fn.Tif 
 , ill 
 
 R'' s 
 
 some one exclaim that two of her friends were being m\a- 
 dered beneath the window. Starting up, she approached 
 the casement to get a view, as if by looking she could 
 save ; but that moment she encountered the fiendish gaze 
 of Jo Lewis the half-breed, and comprehended his guilt, 
 " Is it you, Jo, who are doing this?" she cried. Before the 
 expression of horror had left her lips, a young Indian who 
 had been a special favorite about the mission, drew up his 
 gun and fired, the ball entering her right breast, when she 
 fell without a groan. 
 
 When the people had at first rushed in, Mrs. Whitman 
 had ordered the doors fastened and the sick children re- 
 moved to a room up stairs. Thither now she was herself 
 conveyed, having first recovered sufficiently to stagger to 
 the sofa where lay her dying husband. Those who wit- 
 nessed this strange scene, say that she knelt and prayed— 
 prayed for the orphan children she was leaving, and for 
 her aged parents. The only expression of personal regret 
 she was heard to utter, was sorrow that her father and 
 mother should live to know she had perished in such a 
 manner. 
 
 In the chamber were now gathered Mrs. Whitman, Mrs, 
 Hayes, Miss Bulee, Catharine Sager, thirteen years of age, 
 and three of the sick children, besides Mr. Rogers and Mr 
 Kimble. Scarcely had they gained this retreat when the 
 crashing of windows and doors was heard below, and with 
 whoops and yells the savages dashed into the sitting-room 
 where Doctor Whitman still lay d3ring. While some 
 busied themselves removing from the house the goods and 
 furniture, a chief named Te-lau-ka-ikt, a favorite at the 
 mission, and on probation for admission into the church, 
 deliberately chopped and mangled the face of his still 
 breathing teacher and friend with his tomahawk, until every 
 feature was rendered unrecognizable. . • 
 
i 
 
 ""^ 
 
 THE SUFFERINGS OF THE CHmDREN. 
 
 413 
 
 The children from the school-house were brought into 
 the kitchen of the Doctor's house about this time, by Jo 
 Lewis, where, he told them, they were going to be shot. 
 Mr. Spalding's little girl Eliza, was among them. Under- 
 standing the native language, she was fully aware of the 
 terrible import of what was being said by their tormen- 
 tors. While the Indians talked of shooting the children 
 huddled together in the kitchen, pointing their guns, and 
 yelling, Eliza covered her face with her apron, and leaned 
 over upon the sink, that she might not see them shoot her. 
 After being tortured in this manner for some time, the 
 children were finally ordered out of doors. 
 
 While this was going on, a chief called Tamt-sahy^ was 
 trying to induce Mrs, Whitman to come down into the 
 sitting-room. 
 
 She replied that she was wounded and could not do so, 
 upon which he professed much sorrow, and still desired 
 her to be brought down, " If you are my friend Tamt- 
 sahy^ come up and see me," was her reply to his profes- 
 sions, but he objected, sa3ring there were Americans con- 
 cealed in the chamber, whom he feared might kill him. 
 Mr. Rogers then went to the head of the stairs and en- 
 deavored to have the chief come up, hoping there might 
 be some friendly ones, who would aid them in escaping 
 from the murderers. Tamt-sak-y^ however, would not 
 come up the stairs, although he persisted in saying that 
 Mrs. Whitman should not be harmed, and that if all would 
 come down and go over to the other house where the fami- 
 lies were collected, they might do so in safety. 
 
 The Indians below now began to call out that they were 
 going to burn the Doctor's house. Then no alternative 
 remained but to descend and trust to the mercy of the 
 savages. As Mrs. Whitman entered the sitting-room, lean- 
 ing on one arm of Mr. Rogers, who also was wounded in 
 
414 
 
 THE VICTIMS TORTURED. 
 
 the head, and had a broken arm, she caught a view of tlie 
 shockingly mutilated face of her husband and fell faintinc 
 upon the sofa, just as Doctor Whitman gave a dying gasp, 
 
 Mr. Rogers and Mrs. Hayes now attempted to get the 
 sofa, or settee, out of the house, and had succeeded in 
 moving it through the kitchen to the door. No sooner 
 did they appear in the open door-way than a volley of balls 
 assailed them. Mr. Rogers fell at once, but did not die 
 immediately, for one of the most horrid features in this 
 horrid butchery was, that the victims were murdered by 
 torturing degrees. Mrs. Whitman also received several 
 gunshot wounds, lying on the settee. Francis Stager, the 
 oldest of her adopted boys, was dragged into the group of 
 dying ones and shot down. 
 
 The children, who had been turned out of the kitchen 
 were still huddled together about the kitchen door, so 
 near to this awful scene that every incident was known to 
 them, so near that the flashes from the guns of the Indians 
 burnt their hair, and the odor of the blood and the burn- 
 ing powder almost suffocated them. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon the massacre had com- 
 menced. It was now growing dusk, and the demons were 
 eager to finish their work. Seeing that life still lingered 
 in the mangled bodies of their victims, they finished their 
 atrocities by hurling them in the mud and gore which filled 
 the yard, and beating them upon their faces with whips 
 and clubs, while the air was filled with the noise of their 
 shouting, singing, and dancing — the Indian women and 
 children assisting at these orgies, as if the Bible had never 
 been preached to them. And thus, after eleven years of 
 patient endeavor to save some heathen souls alive, perished 
 Doctor and Mrs. Whitman. 
 
 In all that number of Indians who had received daily 
 kindnesses at the hands of the missionaries, only two 
 
ESCAPE or MR, OSBORNE AND FAMILY, 
 
 415 
 
 showed any compassion. These two, Ups and Madpool^ 
 Walla- Wallas, who were employed by the Doctor, took 
 the childi'cn away from the sickening sights that sur- 
 rouiuled them, into the kitchen pantry, and there in secret 
 tried to comfort them. 
 
 When niglit set in the chihlren and families were all re- 
 moved to the building called the mansion-house, where they 
 spent a night of horror ; all, except those who were left in 
 Mrs. Whitman's chamber, from which they dared not de- 
 scend, and the family of Mr. Osborne, who escaped. 
 
 On the first assault Mr. and Mrs. Osborne ran into their 
 bedroom which adjoined the sitting-room, taking with 
 them tlicir three small children. Raising a plank in the 
 floor, Mr. 0. quickly thrust his wife and children into the 
 .space beneath, and then following, let the plank down to 
 its place. Here they remained until darkness set in, able 
 t) hear all that was passing about them, and fearing to 
 stir. When all was quiet at the Doctor's house, they stole 
 out under cover of darkness and succeeded in reaching 
 Fort Walla- Walla, after a painful journey of several days, 
 or rather nights, for they dared not travel by day. 
 
 Another person who escaped was a Mr. Hall, carpenter, 
 who in a hand to hand contest with an Indian, received a 
 wound in the face, but finally reached the cover of some 
 bushes where he remained until dark, and then fled in the 
 direction of Fort Walla- Walla. Mr. Hall was the first to 
 arrive at the fort, where, contrary to his expectations, and 
 to all humanity, he was but coldly received by the gentle- 
 man in charge, Mr. McBean. ........ ..... ... 
 
 Whether it was from cowardice or cruelty as some al- 
 leged, that Mr. McBean rejoiced in the slaughter of the 
 Protestant missionaries, himself being a Catholic, can never 
 be known. Had that been true, one might have supposed 
 that their death would have been enough, and that he 
 27 
 
 )h 
 
 M 
 
 Pli;' 
 
416 
 
 ESCAPE AND FATE OF Mil. HALL. 
 
 might have slioltercd a wounded man floeinrr for his life 
 without grudging him tliisatoni of coniiurt, Unfortunntoiy 
 for Mr. Mc'Bean's reputation, he deehncd to grant suchslnjl- 
 tcr willingly. Mr. Hall remained, however, twelve hours 
 until he heard a report that the women and chiklremvere 
 murdered, when, knowing how unwelcome he waa, and be- 
 ing in a htdf distracted state, ho consented to be set across 
 the Cohnnbia to make his way as best he could to the vValla- 
 met. From this hour he was never seen or heard from, 
 the manner of his death remaining a mystery to his wife 
 and tlieir family of five children, who were among the 
 prisoners at "Waiilatpu. 
 
 When Mr. Osborne left the mission in jhe darkness, he 
 WIS able only to proceed about two mikj, L >fore Mrs. Os- 
 borne's strength gave way, she lately having been con- 
 fined by an untimely birth ; and he was compelled to stop, 
 secreting himself and family in some bushes. Here they 
 remained, suffering with cold, and insullieient food, having 
 only a little bread and cold mush which they had found 
 in the pantry of the Doctor's house, before leaving it. On 
 Tuesday night, Mrs. 0. was able to move about three miks 
 more : and again they were compelled to stop. In this 
 way to proceed, they must all perish of starvation; 
 therefore on Wednesday night Mr. 0. took the second 
 child and started with it for the fort, where he arrived be- 
 •fore noon on Thursday. 
 
 i'- Although Mr.McBcan received him with friendliness of 
 manner, he refused him horses to go for Mrs. Osborne and 
 his other children, and even refused to furnish food to re- 
 relieve their hunger, telling him to go to the Umatilla. 
 and forbidding his return to the fort. A little food was I 
 given to himself and child, who had been fasting since 
 Monday night. Whether Mr. McBean would have allowed 
 ;this man to perish is uncertain : but certain it is that some 
 
CIIUEL TUKATMKNT OF FPOITIVES. 
 
 417 
 
 I ;i or cownrflly irotive made liim cxcocdiiigly cruel to 
 l„)i!i IImII and Osborne. 
 
 While Mr Osborne was partaking of his tea and cracker.*', 
 flioro arrived at the fort Mr. Stanley, the artist, whom tlie 
 reader will rcinoinber having met in the mountains several 
 vcars before. When the case became known to him, he 
 (ilFcrcd his horses immediately to go for Mrs. Osborne. 
 Shiiiiied into an appearance of humanity, Mr. McBean then 
 fiiniishcd an Indian guide to accompany Mr. 0. to the 
 rmatiliii, where he still insisted the fugitives should go, 
 tlioiip:h this was in the murderer's country. 
 
 A little meat and a few crackers were furnished for the 
 supper of the travelers ; and with a handkerchief for his 
 hatless iioad and a pair of socks for his child's naked feet, 
 all furnished by Mr. Stanley, Mr. Osborne set out to return 
 to his sufl'ering wife and children. He and his guide trav- 
 eled rapidly, arriving in good time near the spot where 
 lie believed his family to be concealed. But the darkness 
 liad confused his recollection, and after beating the bushes 
 until daylight, the unhappy husband and father was about 
 to give up the search in despair, when his guide at length 
 discovered their retreat. 
 
 The poor mother and children were barely alive, hav- 
 ing suffered much from famine and exposure, to say noth- 
 ing of their fears. Mrs. Osborne was compelled to be 
 tied to the Indian in order to sit her horse. In this con- 
 dition the miserable fugitives turned toward the Umatilla, 
 in obedience to the command of McBean, and were only 
 saved from being murdered by a Cayuse by the scornful 
 words of the guide, who shamed the murderer from his 
 purpose of slaughtering a sick and defenceless family. 
 At a Canadian farm-house, where they stopped to change 
 horses, they were but roughly received ; and learning 
 here that Tamt-sahy's lodge was near by, Mrs. Osborne 
 
 \ i\ 
 
 mm 
 
418 
 
 KINDNESS OF STICK AS. 
 
 ■MM& 
 
 refused to proceed any farther toward the Umatilla. She 
 said, " I doubt if I can live to reach the Umatilla ; and if 
 I must die, I may as well die at the gates of the Fort." 
 Let us. then, turn back to the Fort." 
 
 To this the guide assented, saying it was not safe goinf 
 among the Cayuses. The I'ttle party, quite exhausted, 
 reached Walla-Walla about ten o'clock at nigh', and were 
 at once admitted. Contrary to his former course, Mr. 
 McBean now ordered a hre made to warm the benumbed 
 travelers, ^vho, after being made tolerably comfortable, 
 were placed in a secret room of the fort. Again Mr. 
 Osborne was importuned to go away, down to the Walla- 
 met, Mr. McBean promising to take care )f bis family 
 and furnish him an outfit L he would do so. Upon being 
 asked to furnish a ])oat, and Indians to man it, in order 
 that the family might accompany him, he replied that his 
 Indians refused to go. 
 
 From all this reluctance, not only on the part of Mc- 
 Bean, but of the Indians also, to do any act which ap- 
 peared like befriending the ximericans, it would appear 
 that there was a very general fear of the Cayuse Indians, 
 and a belief that they wore about to inaugurate a general 
 war upon the Americans, and their friends and allies. Mr 
 Osborne, hovv'Gvor, refused to leave his family behind, and 
 Mr. M Bean was forced to let him remain until relief 
 came. When it did come at last, in the shape of Mr. 
 Ogden's party, Stickas^ the chief who had wp.rned Mr. 
 Spalding, showed his kind feeling for the su:Terers by 
 removing his own cap and placing it on Mr. Osborne's 
 head, and by tying a handkerchief over the ears of Mr. 
 Osborne's little son, as he said, " to keep him warm, going 
 down the river." Sadly indeed, did the little ones who 
 sulfered by the massacre at Waiilatpu, stand in need of 
 any Christian kindness. v' 
 
HOKllORS OF THE WAIILATPU MABSACRB. 
 
 419 
 
 CHAPTER XXXYI. 
 
 1847. A FULL account of the horrors of the Waii- 
 latpu massacre, together with the individual sufferings of 
 the captives v/hose lives were spared, would fill a volume, 
 and be harvovving to the reader ; therefore, only so much 
 of it will be given here as, from its bearing upon Oregon 
 history, is important to our narrative. 
 
 The day following the massacre, being Tuesday, was 
 the day on which Mr. Spalding was met and warned not 
 to go to the mission, by the Vicar General, Brouillet. 
 Happening at the mission on that day, and finding the 
 bodies of tho 'victims still unburied, Brouillet had them 
 hastily interred before leaving, if interment it could be 
 called which left them still a prey to wolves. The reader 
 of this chapter of Oregon history will always be very much 
 puzzled to understand by what means the Catholic priests 
 procured their perfect ex(3mption from harm during this 
 time of terror to the Americans. Was it that they were 
 French, and that they came into the country only 0;S mis- 
 sionaries of a religion adapted to the savage mind, and 
 not as settlers ? Was it at all owing to the fact that they 
 were celibates, with no families to excite jealous feelings 
 of comparison in the minds of their converts ? 
 
 Through a long and bitter war of words, which fol- 
 lowed the massacre at Waiilatpu, terrible sins were charged 
 upon the priests — no less than inciting the Indians to the 
 murder of the Protestants, and winkiue: at the atrocities of 
 
420 
 
 EXEMPTION OF THE CATHOLIC'3. 
 
 every kind committed by the savages. Whether thpv 
 feared to enter into the quarrel, and were restrained from 
 showing sympathy solely by this fear, is a question only 
 themselves ean determine. Certain it is, that they pre- 
 served a neutral position, when to be neutral was to seer,!, 
 if not to be, devoid of human sympathies. That the 
 event would have happened without any other provoca- 
 tion than such as the Americans furnished by their own 
 reckless disregard of Indian prejudices, seems evident. 
 The question, and the only question which is suggested 
 by a knowledge of all the circumstances, is whether the 
 event was helped on by an intelligent outside influence. 
 
 It was quite natural that the Protestants should wonder 
 at the immunity from danger which the priests enjoyed; 
 and that, not clearly seeing the reason, they should sus- 
 pect them of collusion with the Indians. It was natural, 
 too, for the sufferers from the massacre to look for some 
 expression of sympathy from any and all denominations 
 of Christians ; and that, not receiving it, they should have 
 doubts of the motives which prompted such reserve. 
 The story of that time is but an unpleasant record, and 
 had best be lightly touched upon. : . i 
 
 The work of death and destruction did not close with 
 the first day at Waiilatpu. Mr. Kimble, who had re- 
 mained in the chamber of the Doctor's house all night, 
 had suffered much from the pain of his broken arm. On 
 Tuesday, driven desperate by his own sufferings, and those 
 of the three sick children with him, one of whom was the 
 little Helen Mar Meek, he resolved to procure some water 
 from the stream which ran near the house. But he had 
 not proce-cded more than a few rods before he was shot 
 down and killed instantly. The same day, a Mr. Young, 
 from the saw-mill, was also killed. In the course of the 
 week, Mr. Bulee, who was sick over at the mansion, was 
 brutally murdered. 
 
FATE OF THE YOUNG WOMEN. 
 
 421 
 
 (I 
 
 Meanwhile the female captives and children were en- 
 during such agony as seldom falls to the lot of humanity 
 to sailer. Compelled to work for the Indians, their feel-. 
 iii"-s were continually harrowed up by the terrible sights 
 wliic'li everywhere met their eyes in going back and forth 
 between the houses, in carrying water from the stream, or 
 moving in any direction whatever. For the dead were 
 not removed until the setting in of decay made it neces- 
 sary to the Indians themselves. 
 
 The goods belonging to the mission were taken from 
 tlie store-roc>m, and the older women ordered to make them 
 uiMnto clothing for the Indians. The b lildings were plun- 
 dered of everything which the Indiars coveted; all the 
 rest of their contents that could not be made useful to 
 themselves were destroyed. Those of the captives who 
 were sick were not allowed proper attention, and in a day 
 or two Helen Mar Meek died of neglect. 
 
 Thus passed four or five days. On Saturday a new 
 horror was added to the others. The savages began to 
 carry off the young women for wives. Three were thus 
 dragged away to Indian lodges to suffer tortures worse 
 than death. One young girl, a daughter of Mr. Kimble, 
 was taken possession of by the murderer of her father, 
 who took daily delight in reminding her of that fact, and 
 when her sorrow could no longer be restrained, only 
 threatened to exchange her for another young girl who 
 was also a wife by compulsion. 
 
 Miss Bulee, the eldest of the young women at the mission, 
 and who was a toacher in the mission school, was taken to 
 the Umatilla, to the lodge of Five- Crows. As has before 
 heen related, there was a house on the Umatilla belonging 
 to Tan-i-tan^ in which were residing at this time two Cath- 
 olic priests — the Vicar-General Brouillet, and Blanchet, 
 Bishop of Walla- Walla. To this house Miss Bulee applied 
 
422 
 
 MISS BULEE AND THE PKIESTS. 
 
 for protection, and was refused, whether from fear, or from 
 the motives subsequently attributed to them by some 
 Protestant writers in Oregon, is not known to any but 
 themselves. The only thing certain about it is, that Miss 
 Bulce was allowed to be violently dragged from their 
 presence every night, to return to them weeping in the 
 morning, and to have her entreaties for their assistance 
 answered by assurances from them tlia^ the wisest course 
 for her was to submit. And this continued for more thim 
 two weeks, until the news of Mr. Ogden's arrival at Walla- 
 Walla became known, when Miss Bulee was told that if 
 Five- Crows would not allow her to remain at their house 
 altogether, she must remain at the lodge of Five-Cmos 
 without coming to their house at all, well knowing what 
 Five- Crows would do, but wishing to have Miss Bulee's 
 action seem voluntary, from shame perhaps, at their own 
 cowardice. Yet the reason they gave ought to go for all 
 it is worth — that they beiug priests could not have a 
 woman about their house. In this unhappy situation did 
 the female captives spend three most miserable weeks. 
 
 In the meantime the mission at Lapwai had been broken 
 up, but not destroyed, nor had any one suffered death as 
 was at first feared. The intelligence of the massacre at 
 Waiilatpu was first conveyed to Mrs. Spalding by a Mr. 
 Camfield, who at tht3 breaking out of the massacre, fled 
 with his wife and children to a small room in the attic of 
 the mansion, from the window of which he was able to 
 behold the scenes which followed. When night came Mr. 
 Camfield contrived to elude observation and descend into 
 the yard, where he encountered a French Canadian long 
 in the employ of Dr. Whitman, and since suspected to 
 have been privy to the plan of the murders. To him Mr. 
 Camfield confided his intention to escape, and obtained a 
 promise that a horse should be brought to a certain place 
 
 J* 
 
ESCAPE OF MR. CAMFIELD. 
 
 423 
 
 at a certain time for his use. But the Canadian failing to 
 appear with his horse, Mr. C. set out on foot, and under 
 cover of night, in the direction of the Lapwai mission. 
 He arrived in the Nez Perce country on Thursday. On 
 the following daj^ he came upon a camp of these people, 
 and procured from them a guide to Lapwai, without, how- 
 ever, speaking of what had occurred at Waiilatpu. 
 
 The caution of Mr. Camfield relates to a trait of Indian 
 character which the reader of Indian history must bear in 
 mind, that is, the close relationship and identity of feeling 
 of allied tribes. Why .iC did not inform the Nez Perces 
 of the deed done by their relatives, the Cayuses, was be- 
 cause in that case he would have expected them to have 
 sympathized with their allies, even to the point of making 
 him a prisoner, or of taking his life. It is this fact concern- 
 ing the Indian character, which alone furnishes an excuse 
 for the conduct of Mr. McBean and the Catholic priests. 
 Upon it Mr. Camfield acted, making no sign of fear, nor 
 betraying any knowledge of the terrible matter on his 
 mind to the Nez Perces. 
 
 On Saturday afternoon Mr. C. arrived at Mrs. Spalding's 
 house and dismissed his guide with the present of a buf- 
 flilo robe. When he was alone with Mrs. Spalding he 
 told his unhappy secret. It was then that the strength 
 and firnniess of Mrs. Spalding's character displayed itself 
 ill her decisive action. Well enough she knew the close 
 bond between the Nez Perces and Cayuses, and also the 
 treachery of the Indian character. But she saw that if 
 affairs were left to shape themselves as Mr. Camfield 
 entreated they might be left to do, putting off the evil 
 day, — that when the news came from the Cayuses, there 
 Avould be an outbreak. ' ■ . . ■•-;' ,,^-.' 
 
 The only chance of averting this danger was to inform 
 tho chiefs most attached to her, at once, and throw herself 
 
 i: 
 
 !^ 
 
 Bi\h 
 
 I . 
 
424 
 
 IIEIIOISM OF MRS. SPALDING. 
 
 and her family upon their mercy. Her resohition was 
 taken not an hour too soon. Two of the chiefs most re- 
 lied upon happened to be at the place that very afternoon 
 one of whom was called Jacobs and the other Engh. To 
 these two Mrs. Spalding confided the news without delay, 
 and took counsel of them. According to her hopes, they 
 assumed the responsibility of protecting her. One of 
 them went to inform his camp, and give them orders to 
 stand by Mrs. S., while the other carried a note to Mr. 
 Craig, one of our Rocky Mountain acquaintances, who 
 lived ten miles from the mission. ,. ... .• t i iv. ,, 
 
 Jacob and Eagle^ with two other friendly chiefs, deci- 
 ded that Mrs. S. must go to their camp near Mr. Craig's; 
 because in case the Cayuses came to the mission as was to 
 be expected, she would be safer with them. Mrs. S. how- 
 ever would not consent to make the move on the Sabbath, 
 but begged to be allowed to remain quiet until Monday. 
 Late Saturday evening Mr. Craig came down ; and Mrs. 
 Spalding endeavored with his assistance to induce the In- 
 dians to carry an express to Cimikain in the country of 
 the Spokanes, where Messrs. Walker and Eells had a sta- 
 tion. Not an Indian could be persuaded to go. An ef- 
 fort, also, was made by the heroic and suffering wife and 
 mother, to send an express to Waiilatpu to learn the fate 
 of her daughter, and if possible of her husband. But the 
 Indians were none of them inclined to go. They said, 
 without doubt all the women and children were slain. 
 That Mr. Spalding was alive no one believed. ; v rk 
 
 The reply of Mrs. S. to thoir objections was that she 
 could not believe that they were her friends if they would 
 not undertake this journey, for the relief of her feehngs 
 under such circumstances. At length Eagle consented to 
 go ; but so much opposed were the others to having any- 
 thing done which their relations, the Cayuses, might be 
 
''■^ 
 
 THE LAPWAI MISSION PLUNDERED. 
 
 425 
 
 (]i<i)loasod with, that it was nearly twenty-four hours be- 
 fore tAujh got leave to go. 
 
 On Monday morning a Nez Perce arrived from Waii- 
 latpuwith the news of what the Cayuses had done. With 
 liim were a number of Indians from the camp where Mr. 
 Camfield had stopped for a guide, all eager for plunder, and 
 for murder too, had not they found Mrs. Spalding pro- 
 tected by several chiefs. Her removal to their camp 
 probiibly saved her from the fate of Mrs. Whitman. 
 
 Among those foremost in plundering the mission build- 
 in n-.s at Lapwai were some of the hitherto most exemplary 
 Indians among the Nez Perces. Even the chief, first in 
 authority after Ellis, who was absent, was prominent in 
 tliese robberies. For eight years had this chief, Joseph, 
 lieen a member of the church at Lapwai, and sustained a 
 good reputation during that time. How bitter must have 
 been the feelings of Mrs. Spalding, who had a truly de- 
 voted missionary heart, when she beheld the fruit of her 
 life's labor turned to ashes in her sight as it wab by the 
 conduct of Joseph and his family. 
 
 Shortly after the removal of Mrs. Spalding, and the pil- 
 laging of the buildings, Mr. Spalding arrived at Lapwai 
 from his long and painful journey during which he had 
 wandered much out of his way, and suffered many things. 
 His appearance was the signal for earnest consultations 
 among the Nez Perces who were not certain that they 
 might safely give protection to him without the consent 
 of the Cayuses. To his petition that they should carry a 
 letter express to Fort Colville or Fort Walla- Walla, they 
 would not consent. Their reason for refusing seemed to 
 bo a fear that such a letter might be answered by an 
 aimed body of Americans, who would come to avenge the 
 deaths of their countrymen. ■• . ; > > .> , .* 
 
 To deprive them of this suspicion, Mr. Spalding told 
 
 .1,^-: 
 
426 
 
 MR. SPALDING S ARRIVAL AT LAPWAI. 
 
 thorn that as he had been robbed of everything, he had 
 no means of paying tlicm for their services to his family, 
 and that it was necessary to write to Walla- Walla for 
 blankets, and to the Umatilla for his horses. He assured 
 them that he would write to his countrymen to keep qu'ot 
 and that they had nothing to fear from the Americans, 
 The truth was, however, that he had forwarded through 
 Bi'ouillet, a letter to Gov. Abernethy asking for help 
 which could only come into that hostile country armed 
 and equipped for war. And it was fearing this, that the 
 Indians detained him and his fiimily as hostages until it 
 became apparent what the Americans meant to do. 
 
 Happily for the captives both at Waiilatpu and else- 
 where, the prompt action of the Hudson's Bay Company 
 averted any collision between the Indians and Americans, 
 until after they had been ransomed. . ' * 
 
 Late in the month of December there arrived in Ore- 
 gon City to be delivered to the governor, sixty-two cap- 
 tives, bought from the Cay uses and Nez Perces by Hud- 
 son's Bay blankets and goods ; and obtained at that price 
 by Hudson's Bay influence. "No other power on earth," 
 says Joe Meek, the American, "could have rescued those 
 prisoners from the hands of the Indians;" and no man 
 better than Mr, Meek understood the Indian character, 
 or the Hudson's Bay Company's power over them. 
 
 The number of victims to the Waiilatpu massacre was 
 fourteen. None escaped who had not to mourn a father, 
 brother, son, or friend. If "the blood of the martyrs is 
 the seed of the church," there ought to arise on the site 
 of Waiilatpu a generation of extraordinary piety. As for 
 the people for whom a noble man and woman, and num- 
 bers of innocent persons were sacrificed, they have re- 
 turned to their traditions ; with the exception of the Nez 
 Perces, who under the leadership of their old teacher Mr. 
 
COUNTRY ABANDONED TO THE INDIANS. 
 
 427 
 
 Spalding, have once more resumed the pursuits of civil- 
 ized and Christianized nations. 
 
 As early in the Spring as possible Messrs. Walker and 
 Kclls left the Cimikain mission, and settled in the Walla- 
 met Valley, leaving the upper country entirely in the 
 luinds of the Indians for a period of several years, during 
 which Oregon went through her Indian wars. 
 
 .' . I 
 
 ": >:•. ■!■"• ■■ ; ■ .' ■ ; i'.i: .: ■■■< . U'-' 
 
 
 
 
 Alt*.*. '5 I 
 
428 
 
 THE CALL TO AltMS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 • 1 ♦! : 
 
 1847-8, When the contents of Mr. Douglas' letter to 
 the governor became known to the citizens of the Walla- 
 met settU luent, the greatest excitement prevailed. On 
 the reading of that letter, and those accompanying it, be- 
 fore the House, a resolution was immediately introduced 
 authorizing the governor to raise a company of riflemen, 
 not to exceed fifty in number, to occupy and hold the 
 mission station ai the Dalles, until a larger force could le 
 raised, and such measures adopted as the government 
 might think advisable. This resolution being sent to the 
 governor without delay, received his approval, when the 
 House adjourned. 
 
 A large meeting of the citizens was held that evening, 
 which was addressed by several gentlemen, among whom 
 was Meek, whose taste for Indian fighting was whetted to 
 keenness by the aggravating circumstances of the Waiilat- 
 pu massacre, and the fact that his little Helen Mar was 
 among the captives. Impatient as was Meek to avenge 
 the murders, he was too good a mountain-man to give any 
 rash advice. All that could be done under the existing 
 circumstances was to trust to the Hudson's Bay Company 
 for the rescue of the prisoners, and to take such means for 
 defending the settlements as the people in their unarmed 
 condition could devise. 
 
 The legislature undertook the settlement of the ques- 
 tion of ways and means. To raise money for the carrying 
 
il 
 
 WAYS AND MEANS OF DEFENCE. 
 
 429 
 
 out of the most important measures immodiatoly, was a 
 tusk which after some consideration was entrusted to tliree 
 commissioners; and by these commissioners letters were 
 iuldressed to the Hudson's Bay Company, the superintend- 
 ent of the Metliodist mission, and to the " mercliants and 
 citizens of Oregon." The latter communication is valua- 
 ble as fully explaining tlic position of allairs at that time 
 in Oregon, It is dated Dec. 17th, and was as follows : 
 
 Gknti.kmen : — You are aware that the undersignotl have been oharired hy 
 tlic Ir .'islatiire of our provisional govcrninont witli tin; difUciilt duty of ohtain- 
 iii^ tin' lU'ccs.sary lueanB to arm, ccjiiip, and support in llu; field a force puflicient 
 to obtain full satisfaction of the Cayuse Indians, for the late massacre at Waiilat- 
 pii, and to protect the white population of our common country from further 
 aircrrcssion. 
 
 Ill f'urtlii'rancc of this object they have deemed it their duty to make imme- 
 diate application to the merchants and citizens of the country for the requisite 
 assistance. 
 
 Though clothed with the power to pledge, to the fullest extent, the faith and 
 means of the present government of Oregon, they do not consider this pledge 
 the (inly security to those who, in this distressing emergency, may extend to the 
 IK'dpleof this country the means of protection and redress. 
 
 Without claiming any special authority from tlie government of the United 
 States to contract a debt to be liquidated by that power, yet, from all prece- 
 dents of like ("naractcr in the history of our country, the undersigned feel con- 
 fiileiit that the United States government will regard the murder of the late 
 Dr. Whitman and his lady, as a national wrong, and will fully justify tlie peo- 
 ])li' of Oregon in taking active measures to obtain redress for that outrage, and 
 fur their jirotection from further aggression, 
 
 Tlie right of self-defence is tacitly acknowledged to every body politic in the 
 confederacy to which we claim to belong, and in every case similar to our own, 
 within our knowledge, the general government has promptly assumed the pay- 
 ment of all liabilities growing out of the measures taken by the constituted 
 authorities, to protect the lives and property of those who reside within the 
 limits of their districts. 
 
 If the citizens of the States and territories, east of the Rocky mountains, 
 arc justified in promptly acting in such emergencies, who are under the 
 immediate protection of the general government, there appears no room for 
 doubt that the lawful acts of the Oregon government will receive a like ap- 
 proval. 
 
 Though the Indians of the Columbia have committed a great outrage upon 
 our fellow citizens passing through their country, and residing among them, 
 
430 
 
 FIIl^T llEOIMENT OF OREGON RIFLEMEN. 
 
 and their pniiishincnt for thoHo mnnUTH may, and ought to he, a prime object 
 with overy citi/iMi of Orc^^on, yt't, as that (hity more particularly duvolves uinm 
 tho govcrnmiuit of the United Stataji, and admits of delay, vro <lo not make 
 this the. stroni^est (ground upon whicli to found our earnest appeal to you fur 
 jH'cuuiiiry assistauee. It is a fact well knovn to every person ac(iuiiiiUed with 
 tho Indian character, that, by passinj^ silently over thoir repeated thelh, rolt- 
 beries, and murders of our fellow-citizens, they have been emhohleiied to llu- 
 commission of the appalliuj^ massacre at Waiilatpu. They cull us wonu'n, 
 dcstituti! of the hearts and eourajro of men, ami if we allow this whelesalu mur- 
 der to pass by as fonmrr aggressions, wlio can tell how long either life or prop- 
 erty will he secure in any ])art of this country, or what moment the Wilianietle 
 will be the scene of hhiod and carnage. 
 
 The officers of our provisional government have nobly performed their duty. 
 None can doubt th(^ ri'adiness of tho patriotic sons of the west to ofliir their 
 personal .services in defcucc of a cause so righteous. So it now rests 'ivith you, 
 gentlemen, to say whether our rights and our fire-sides shall be defended, or 
 not. 
 
 Hoping that none will be found to falter in so high and so .sacred a duty, we 
 beg leave, gentlemen, to subscribe ourselves, 
 
 Your servants and fellow-citizens, " ' ' 
 
 Jk8se Appleoate, 
 A. L. L0VE.10Y, 
 Geo. L. CuuiiY, 
 
 Commissioners, 
 
 A Similar letter had been addressed to the Hudson's 
 Bay Company, and to the Methodist mission. From each 
 of these sources such assistance was obtained as enabled 
 the colony to arm and equip the first regiment of Oregon 
 riflemen, which in the month of January proceeded to the 
 Cay use country. The amount raised, however, was very 
 small, being less than five thousand dollars, and it became 
 imperatively necessary that the government of the United 
 States should be called upon to extend its aid and protec- 
 tion to the loyal but distressed young territory. 
 
 In view of this necessity it was resolved in the leg- 
 islature to send a messenger to carry the intelligence 
 of the massacre to Gov. Mason of California, and through 
 him to the commander of the United States squadron 
 in the Pacific, that a vessel of war might be sent into 
 
mki;k api'ointed mkhsenoeu to the united states. 431 
 
 sacred a duty, we 
 
 tho Columbia River, and arms and ajuniunition borrowed 
 for the present emergency, from the nearest arsenal. 
 For tills duty was chosen Jesse A])plegato, Esq., a gentle- 
 iiiiui who combined in his character and person the ability 
 of tho statesman with the sagacity and strength of the 
 pioneer. Mr. Ai)plegate, with a small party of brave 
 men, set out in midwinter to cross the mountains into Cal- 
 ifornia, but such was the depth of snow they encountered 
 thiit traveling became impossible, even after abandoning 
 llieir horses, and they were compelled to return. 
 
 The messenger elected to proceed to the United States 
 was Joseph L. Meek, whoso Rocky Mountain experiences 
 ciniiicutly fitted him to encounter the dangers of such a 
 winter journey, and whose manliness, firmness, and ready 
 wit stood him instead of statesmanship. 
 
 On the 17th December Meek resigned his seat in the 
 House in order to prepare for the discharge of his duty as 
 messenger to the United States. On the 4th of January, 
 armed with his credentials from the Oregon legislature, 
 and bearing dispatches from that body and the Governor 
 to the President, he at length set out on the long and per- 
 ilous expedition, having for traveling companions Mr. 
 John Owens, and Mr. George Ebbarts — the latter having 
 formerly been a Rocky Mountain man, like himself 
 
 At the Dalles they found the first regiment of Oregon 
 
 Riflemen, under Major Lee, of the newly created army of 
 
 Oregon. From the reports which the Dalles Indians 
 
 brought in of the hostility of the Indians beyond the Des 
 
 Chutes River it was thought best not to proceed before 
 
 the arrival of the remainder of the army, when all the 
 
 forces would proceed at once to Waiilatpu. Owing to 
 
 various delays, the army, consisting of about five hundred 
 
 men, under Colonel Gilliam, did not reach the Dalles until 
 
 late in January, when the troops proceeded at once to the 
 
 seat of war. ^^ 
 28 
 
4S2 
 
 THE AliMY MAUClIii.S TO AVAIILATPlT. 
 
 The reports concerning the warlike disposition of the 
 Indians pi'oved to be correct. Ah-eady, the Wascopanis 
 or i)alles Indians had begun robbing the mission at that 
 jihice, Avhen Colonel Lee's arr-val among them with troops 
 had compelled them to return the stolen property. As 
 the army advanced they found that all the tribes above 
 the Dalles "./ere holding themselves prepared for hostilities. 
 At Well Springs, beyond the Des Chutes River, they were 
 met by a body of about six hundred Indians to whom tliey 
 gave battle, soon dispersing them, the superior arms and 
 equipments of the whites tending to render timid those 
 tribes yet unaccustomed to so superior an enemy. From 
 thence to Waiilatpu the course of the army was unob- 
 structed. 
 
 In the meantime the captives had been given up to the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, and full particulars of the massa- 
 cre were obtained by the army, with all the subsequeiit 
 abuses and atrocities sufFei-'^d by the prison.. rs. The hor- 
 rible details were not calculated to soften the first bitterness 
 of hatred which had animated the volunteers on gcino' 
 into the field. Nor was the appearance of an armed force 
 in their midst likely to allay the hostile feelings with 
 which other causes had inspired the Indians. Had not the 
 captives already been removed out of the country, no 
 influence, not even that of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 could have prevailed to get them out of the power of their 
 captors then. Indeed, in order to treat with the Cay uses 
 in the first place, Mr. Ogden had been obliged to promise 
 peace to the Indians, and now they found instead of peace, 
 every preparation for war. However, a© the army took 
 no immediate action, but only j-omained in their country to 
 await the appearance of the commissioners appointed by 
 the legislature of Oregon to hold a council with the chiefs 
 of the various tribes, the Cayuses were forced to observi; 
 
 
VTPIT. 
 
 MKKlv E8C0UTED TO THE BLUFJ MOUNTAINS. 
 
 433 
 
 lisposition of tlie 
 the Wascoi)anis 
 u^ mission at that 
 them with troops 
 11 property. As 
 the tribes above 
 red for hostilities. 
 River, they were 
 ins to whom they 
 iperior arras and 
 ider timid those 
 n enemy. From 
 army was uuob- 
 
 given up to the 
 ars of the massa- 
 1 the subsequent 
 on.:rs. The hor- 
 ,h d first bitterness 
 iinteers on going 
 )f an armed force 
 ile feelings with 
 lis. Had not the 
 
 the country, no 
 s Bay Company, 
 he power of their 
 with the Cayuses 
 )liged to promise 
 instead of peace, 
 ic3 the army took 
 I their country to 
 srs appointed by 
 il with the chiefs 
 breed to observe 
 
 ho outward semblance of amity while these councils were 
 
 1 landing 
 
 Arrived at Waiilatpu, the friends and acquaintances of 
 lir. Whitman Avcre '-hocked to find that the remains of the 
 victims Avere still unburied, although a little earth had 
 heeii tlu'own over them. Meek, to whom, ever since his 
 meeting with her in the train of the fur-trader, Mrs. Whit- 
 man had seemed all that was noble and captivating, had 
 ihe melancholy satisfaction of bestowing, with others, the 
 last sad rite of burial upon such portions of her once fair 
 person as murder and the wolves had not destroyed. Some 
 tresses of golden hair were severed from the brow so ter- 
 ribly disfigured, to be given to her friends in the Walla- 
 met as a last and only memorial. Among the State docu- 
 ments at Salem, Oregon, may still be seen one of these 
 relics of the Waiilatpu tragedy. 
 
 Not only had Meek to discover and inter the remains of 
 Dr. and Mrs. Whitman, but also of his little girl,v,'ho was 
 hmg educated at the mission, with a daughter of his 
 former leader, Bridger. 
 
 This sad duty performed, he immediately set out, escorted 
 by a company of one hundred men under Adjutant Wil- 
 cox, who accompanied him as far as the foot of the Blue 
 Mountains. Here the companies separated, and Meek 
 went on his way to Washington. 
 
434 
 
 MEETING WITH BANNACKS — WHITE LIES. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII, 
 
 1848. Meek's party now consisted of himself, Ebbarts. 
 Owens, and four men, who being desirous of returninji: to 
 the States took this opportunity. Ho^" \ r, as the snow 
 proved to be very deep on the Blue Mountains, and the 
 cold severe, two of these four volunteers became discour 
 aged and concluded to remain at Fort Boise, where was a 
 small trading post of the Hudson's Bay Company. '- 
 
 In order to avoid trouble with the Indians he might 
 meet on the western side of the Rocky mountains. Meek 
 had adopted the red belt and Canadian cap of the employees 
 of the Hudson's Bay Company ; and to this precaution 
 was owing the fact of his safe passage through the coun- 
 try now all infected with hostility caught from the Cayuses. 
 About three days' travel beyond Fort Boise, the party 
 met a village of Bannack Indians, who at once made >var- 
 like demonstrations ; but on seeing Meok's costur^ie, and 
 receiving an invitation to hold a ' talk', desisted, and re 
 ceived the travelers in a friendly manner. Mcok infomied 
 the chief, with all the gravity which had wou for him the 
 name of '■'• shiam shuspima'^ among tho Civws in former 
 years, that he was going on the business of tho Hudson's 
 Bay Company to Fort Hall ; and that Thomas McKay w!».s 
 a day's march behind with a large trading party, and 
 plenty of goods. On the i^XH^ipt of this good news, the 
 chief ordered his braves K'* ft^^\ W-k, and permit the partv 
 to pass. Yet, feariiA^ the vUveption might be discovered, 
 
8. 
 
 DEEP SNOWS THE HOUSES AHAXDONEI). 
 
 435 
 
 self, Ebbart?. 
 returnin^r to 
 as the snow 
 ains, and the 
 ame discour- 
 where was a 
 )any. 
 
 ins he might 
 mtains, Metk 
 he employees 
 s precaution 
 gh the couii- 
 the Cayuscs. 
 the party 
 Re made ^vllr■ 
 costupie, and 
 isted, and re 
 ook infomed 
 \ for him the 
 v's in former 
 ;h 
 s 
 
 tlioy tliought it prudent to travel day and night until they 
 reachi'd Fort Hall. 
 
 At this post of the Hudson's Bay Company, in charge 
 of Mr. Grant, they were kindly received, and stopped for 
 a ll'W hours of rest. Mr. Grant being absent, his wife pro- 
 vided lilKU'ally for the refreshment of the party, who were 
 fliul to find themselves even for a short interval under a 
 roof, beside a fire and partaking of freshly cooked food. 
 Hut thoy permitted themselves no unnecessary delay. Be- 
 Ibre xiight the}^ were once more on their Avay, though 
 snow had now commenced to foil afresh, rendering the 
 tniveling very difficult. For two days they struggled on, 
 iheir horses floundering in the soft drifts, until further 
 progress in that manner became impossible. The only al- 
 ternative left was to abandon their horses and proceed on 
 snow-shoes, which were readily constructed out of willow 
 sticks. 
 
 Taking only a blanket and their rifles, and leaving the 
 animals to find their way back to Fort Hall, the little party 
 pnwhed on. Meek was now on familiar ground, and the 
 old mountain spirit which had once enabled him to endure 
 hunger, cold, and fatigue without murmuring, possessed 
 him now. It was not without a certain sense of enjoy- 
 ment that he found himself reduced to the necessity of 
 shooting a couple of pole-cats to furnish a supper for him- 
 self and party. How long the enjoyment of feeling want 
 would have lasted is uncertain, but probably only lo-jg 
 enough to whet the appetite for plenty. 
 
 To such a point had the appetites of all the party been 
 whetted, when, after several days of scarcity and toil fol- 
 lo\\od by flights of emptiness and cold. Meek had the 
 nsirceable surprise of falling in with an old mountain com- 
 rade on the id(Miiical ground of mf . y a former adventure, 
 the head- waters of Bear River. This man, whom Meek 
 
4;}6 
 
 PKG-LEG SMITH A MOUNTAIN' IlKVEL. 
 
 was clolightod to meet, was Peg-log Smith, one of iIk 
 most famous of many well-known mountain-men. He 
 wafj engaged in herding cattle in the valley of Thomas' 
 Foi'k, where the tall grass was not (juite buried under 
 snow, and had with him a party of ten men. 
 
 Meek was as cordially received by his former comrade 
 as the unbounded hospitality of UKmntain manners ren- 
 dered it certain he would be. A fat cow was immediately 
 sacrificed, which, though not buffalo meat, as in former 
 times it would have been, was very good beef, and fur- 
 nished a luxurious rej)ast to the pole-cat caters of the 
 last several days. Smith's car. p did not lack the domes- 
 tic element of women and chidren, any more than had 
 the trapper's camps in the flush times of the fur-trade. 
 Therefore, seeing that the meeting was most joyful, and 
 full of reminiscences of former winter camps. Smith 
 thought to celebrate the occasion by a grand entertain- 
 ment. Accordingly, after a great deal of roast beef had 
 been disposed of, a dance was called for, in which white 
 men and Indian women joined with far more mirth and 
 jollity than grace or ceremony. Thus passed some hours 
 of the night, the bearer of dispatches seizing, in true 
 mountain style, the passing moment's pleasure, so long as 
 it did not interfere with the punctilious discharge of his 
 duty. And to the honor of our hero be it said, nothing 
 was ever allowed to interfere with that. 
 
 Refreshed and provided with rations for a couple of 
 days, the party started on again next morning, still on 
 snow-shoes, and ti'aveled up Bear River to the head-waters 
 of Green River, crossing from the Muddy fork over to 
 Fort Bridgei', where they arrived very much fatigued bi 
 quite well in little more than three days' travel. Her. 
 again it was Meek's good fortune to meet with his form< 
 leader, Bridger, to whom lie relatetl what had befallen 
 
^'EL. 
 
 MEETING WITH AN OLD LEADEU. 
 
 437 
 
 itli, one of the 
 itaiii-mon. \h 
 Hey of Tliomas 
 ) buried under 
 ;n. 
 
 brnier comrade 
 I manners ren- 
 *vas inimediatclv 
 ,t, as in former 
 I beef, and fur- 
 it caters of the 
 lack the domes- 
 more than had 
 )t' the fur-trade, 
 lost joyful, and 
 ■ camps, Smith 
 >-rand enter tain- 
 roast beef had 
 in which white 
 more mirth nnd 
 ?sed some hours 
 seizing, in true 
 isure, so long as 
 discbarge of his 
 it said, nothiug 
 
 for a couple of 
 norning, still on 
 
 the head-waters 
 dy fork over to 
 ich liitigued but 
 3' travel. Here 
 
 with his former 
 at had bellilloii 
 
 him since turning i)ioneor. The meeting was joyful on 
 lioth sides, clouded oidy l)y the renienibrance of what had 
 brought it about, and the reflection that both had a per- 
 sonal wrong to avenge in bringing about the punishment 
 of the Cayusc murderers. 
 
 Once more Mcek's party were generously fed, and fur- 
 nished with such provisions as they could carry about 
 their persons. In addition to this, Bridger presented 
 thoni with four good mules, by which means the travelers 
 wore mounted four at a time, while the fifth took exercise 
 on foot ; so that by riding or walking, turn about, they 
 wore enabled to get on very well as far as the South Pass. 
 Here again for some distance the snow was very deep, 
 and two of their mules were lost in it. Their course lay 
 down the Sweetwater River, past many familiar hunting 
 ;nul camping grounds, to the Platte Iliver. Owing to the 
 doe[) snows, game was very scarce, and a long day o^* toil 
 \\is frequently clo^^ed by a supperless sleep under shelter 
 of some rock or bank, with only a blanket for cover. At 
 Kcd Buttos they were so fortunate as to find and kill a 
 sinfxle buffalo, which, separated from the distant herd, was 
 k'ft by Providence in the path of the famished travelers. 
 
 On reaching the Platte River they found the traveling 
 improved, as well as the supply of game, and proc(>eded 
 with less difficulty as far as Fort Laramie, a tra lijig post 
 in charge of a French trader named Papillion. Here 
 aiiain fresh nndes were obtained, and the little party 
 treated in the most hospitable manner. In parting from 
 his (iutertainer. Meek was favored with this brief counsel : 
 
 " There is a village of Sioux, of about nix hundred 
 lodges, a hundred miles from hero. Your course will 
 bring you to it. Look out for yourself, and don't make 
 a(irn\ muss of it!" — which latter clause referred to the 
 
 
 1^1 
 
 
438 
 
 PASSING THE SIOUX VILLAGE. 
 
 afi'air of 1837, when tho Sioux liad killed the Indian cs 
 cort of Mr. Gray. 
 
 When tho party arrived at Ash Hollow, which tliev 
 meant to have passed in the night, on account of the 
 Sioux village, the snow was again falling so thickly that 
 the party had not perceived their nearness to the villafre 
 until they were fairly in the midst of it. It was now no 
 safer to retreat than to proceed ; and after a moment's 
 consultation, the word was given to keep on. In truth, 
 Meek thought it doubtful wh( ther the Sioux would trouble 
 themselves to come out in such a, tempest, and if they did 
 80, that the blinding snow-ftill was rather in his favor. 
 Thus reasoning, he was forcing his mule through the 
 drifts as rapidly as the poor worried animal could make 
 its way, when a head was protruded from a lodge door, 
 and 'Hallo, Major!" greeted his ear in an accent not 
 altogethe English. 
 
 On being thus accosted, the party camo to a halt, and 
 Meek was invited to enter the lodge, with his friends. 
 His host on this occasion was a French trader named Le 
 Hcan, wlio, after offering the hospitalities of the lodge, 
 and learning who were his guests, offered to accompany 
 the party a few miles on its way. This he did, saying by 
 way cf explanation of this act of courtesy, " The Sioux 
 are a bad people ; I thought it best to see you safe out 
 of the village." Receiving the thanks of the travelers, 
 he turned back at night-fall, and they continued on all 
 night without stopping to camp, going some distance to 
 the south of their course before turning east again, in 
 order to avoid any possible pursuers. 
 
 Without further adventures, and by dint of almost con- 
 stant travel, the party arrived at St. Joseph, Mo., in 
 safety, in a little over two months, from Portland, Oregon. 
 Soon afterwards, when the circumstances of this journey 
 
"the QUICKEBT TUIP YET." 
 
 139 
 
 DOcMine known, a steamboat built for the Missouri Rivor 
 iiado was cliristeucd the Joseph L. Meek, and bore lor a 
 motto, on her pilot-house, "The quickest trip yet," in 
 lefcrcuco both to Meek's overland journey and her own 
 stoaininfjf qualities. 
 
 As Meek approached the settlements, and knew that he 
 miHt soon be thrown into society of the highest oflicial 
 i^rado, and be subjected to such ordeals as he dreaded far 
 more than Indian fighting, or even traveling express 
 iKTOss a continent of snow, the subject of how he was to 
 boliave in these new and trying positions very frequently 
 (Occurred to him. lie, ;ii! r.neducated man, trained to 
 luoiiiitain life and maimer's, without money, or even 
 clothes, vrith nothing './• depen'I on but the importance of 
 his mission and \\\6 owu iiiother wit, he felt far more 
 icoenly than his careless appearance would suggest, the 
 ilillicnlties and awkwardness of his position. 
 
 "I thought a great deal about it," confesses the Col. 
 
 cph L. Meek of to-day, "and I finally concluded that 
 
 I had never tried to act like anybody but myself, I 
 
 would not make myself a fool by beginning to ape other 
 
 folks now. So I said, ' Joe Mv;ek you always have been, 
 
 and Joe Meek you shall remain ; go ahead, Joe Meek !' " 
 
 111 fact, it would have been rather difficult putting on 
 line gentleman airs, in that old worn-out hunting suit of 
 liis, and with not a dollar to bless himself On the con- 
 tiaiy, it needed just the devil-may-care temper which 
 natuially belonged to our hero, to carry him through the 
 remainder of his journey to Washington. To be hungry, 
 iil-cl ;d, dirty, and penniless, is sufficient in itself for the 
 Mibduing of most spirits ; how it affected the temper of 
 tlie messeiiiger from Oregon we shall now learn. 
 
 ^\\\Q\\ the weary little party arrived in St. Joseph, they 
 repaired to a hotel, and Meek requested that a monj 
 
 Ml 
 
410 
 
 IfKCKl'TKKV AT ST, JOSKIMF. 
 
 sliould be served for ,'iil, but fViinkly coiifossiiif^ that tluv 
 had no money to pny. Tlie Uindlord, however, declincil 
 fiiniisliing guests of hia style upon sueh terms, and our 
 travelers were forced to go into eamp below the town 
 Meek now bethought himself of his letters of introduc- 
 tion. Jt chanced that he had one from two youno' hkh 
 among the Oregon volunteers, to their father in St. Jo- 
 seph. Stopping a negro who was passing his camp, lie 
 in(|uired whether such a gentleman was known to him; 
 and on learning that he was, succeeded in inducing tlio 
 ncin'o to deliver the letter from his sons. 
 
 Tliis movement proved successful. In a short space of 
 time the gentleman presented himself, and learning the 
 situation of the party, provided generously for their pros- 
 ent wants, and promised any assistance which might be 
 re(piired in future. Meek, however, chose to accept only 
 that which was imperatively ne(Kled, namely, something 
 to eat, and transportation to some point on the river 
 Avhere he could take a steamer for St. Louis. A portion 
 of his party chose to remain in St. Joseph, and a portion 
 accompanied him as far as Independence, whither tlii-^ 
 same St. Joseph gentleman conveyed them in his carriage. 
 
 While Meek was stopping at Independence, he was 
 recognized by a sister, whom he had not seen for nineteen 
 years ; who, marrying and emigrating from Virginia, had 
 settled c the frontier of Missouri. But ho gave himself 
 no time \ n' (hnilly reunion and gossip. A steamboat that 
 had been /rozen Up In the ice all winter, was just about 
 starting for St. Ltinis^ and on board of this he went, witli 
 nn introduction to the captain, which secured for him 
 every privilege the lioat afforded, together with the kind 
 est attention of its officers. 
 
 AVhen the steamer arrived in St. Louis, by one of those 
 Ibrtuitoiis circumstances so common in our hero's career, 
 
ARRIVAL AT ST. LOUIS. 
 
 441 
 
 h,. WIS met ;it tho lan(liii<r l)y Campbo]], a Ilocky Moun- 
 i;iiu tnider who had lonnerly boh)iiged to tho St. Jjonis 
 Coiiipany. This niootinj^- relieved him of any care ahoiii 
 liis iiiii:iif'.i entertainment in St. Louis, and it also had an- 
 other on'eet — that of relieving him of any further care.' 
 lijioiit tlie remainder of his journey ; for. after hearing 
 Meek's story of the position of afiairs in Oregon and his 
 crraiul to the United States, Campbell had given the 
 Mime to the newspaper reporters, and Meek, like Byron, 
 Wiikod up next morning to lind himself famous. 
 
 ilaviug telegraphed to Washington, and roeeivcd tho 
 I'rcsidcut's order to eome on, the previous evcjiiir.g, our 
 liero woiuled his way to the levee the morning after his 
 
 :,IEEK AS STEAMBOAT UUXNICK. 
 
 arrival in St. Louis. There were two steamers lying side 
 l»y side, both up for Pittsburg, with runners for each, 
 
 --"'titi 
 
442 
 
 TUE VOLUNTEER BTEAMHOAT UUNXEU. 
 
 striviiif^ to outdo each other in securing passengers. .\ 
 bright tliought occurred to the moneyless envoy— ho 
 would earn his pa.ssage ! 
 
 Walking on board one of the boats, which boro tlie 
 name of The Deidaration^ himself a figure which attracted 
 all eyes by his size and outlandish dress, he mounted to 
 the hurricane deck and began to harrangue the crowd 
 upon the levee, in the voice of a Stentor : 
 
 " This way, gentlemen, if you please. Come right on 
 boaj'd the Declaration. I am the man from Oregon, with 
 dispatches to the President of these United States, that 
 you all read about in this morning's paper. Come on 
 board, ladies and gentlemen, if you want to hear the news 
 from Oregon. I've just come across the plains, two 
 months from the Columbia River, where the Injuns are 
 killing your missionaries. Those p??ssengers who come 
 aboard the Declaration shall hear all about it before tliey 
 get to Pittsburg. Don't stop thar, looking at my old 
 wolf-ikin cjip, but just come aboard, and hear what I've 
 got to tell!" ' ! vv 
 
 The novelty of this sort of solicitation operated cap- 
 itally. Many persons crowded on board the Declaration 
 only to get a closer look at this picturesque personage 
 who invited them, and many more because they were re- 
 ally interested to know the news from the far off young 
 territory which had fallen into trouble. So it chanced 
 that the Declaration was inconveniently crowded on this 
 particular morning. 
 
 After the boat had got under way, the captain ajh 
 proached his roughest looking cabin passenger and in-' 
 quired in a low tone of voice if he were really and truly 
 the messenger from Oregon. 
 
 " Thar's what I've got to show for it ;" answered Meek, 
 producing his papers. .!,Vci' 
 
THK 8TA(iE AGENT AT WIIKKMNG. 
 
 44 :t 
 
 " Well, all I have to say is, Mr. Mt;uk, that you arc the 
 best niiiuer this boat ever had ; and you are welcome to 
 your passage ticket, aiul anything you desire bijsides." 
 
 Fiiidiiig that his bright thought liad succiieded so wt;!!, 
 Mei'lv'ri s[)irit rose with the occasion, and tiie passengers 
 had no ri-ason to com])lain that he had not kept his woid. 
 Ik'Iore lie reached Wheeling his popularity was immense, 
 notwithstanding the condition of his wardrobe. At Cin- 
 cinnati he had time to present a letter to the celebrated 
 
 Doctor , who gave him another, which proved to be 
 
 an 'open sesame' wherever he went thereafter. 
 
 On the morning of his arrival in Wheeling it happened 
 that the stage which then carried passengers to Cumber- 
 liuul, wlierc they took the train for Washington, had al- 
 ready departed. Elated by his previous good fortune our 
 ragged hero resolved not to be delayed by so trivial a 
 circumstance ; but walking pompously into the stage office 
 inquired, with an air which must have smacked strongly 
 of the mock-heroic, if he " could have a stage for Cum- 
 berland?" 
 
 The nicely dressed, dignified elderly gentleman who 
 managed the business of the office, regarded the man who 
 proffered this modest request for a moment in motionless 
 silence, then slowly raising the spectacles over his eyes to 
 a position on his forehead, finished his survey with unas- 
 sisted vision. Somewhat impressed by the manner in 
 > liich Meek bore this scrutiny, he ended by demanding 
 ' who are you ?" 
 
 Tickled by the absurdity of the tableau they were en- 
 acting. Meek straightened himself up to his six feet two, 
 and replied with an air of superb self assurance — 
 
 "■ I am Fnvoy extraordinary and minister plenipotenti- 
 ary from the Rr^public of Oregon to the Court of the 
 United States!" 
 
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 IMAGE EVALUATION 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
 
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 ^ 
 
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 6^ 
 
444 
 
 MEEK ASTONISHES THE NATIVES, 
 
 After a pause in which the old gentleman seemed to be 
 recovering from some great surprise, he requested to see 
 tlic credentials of this extraordinary envoy. Still more 
 surprised he seemed on discovering for himself that the 
 personage before hira was really a messenger from Orejjon 
 to the government of the United States. But the effect 
 was magical. In a moment the bell- rope was pulled, and 
 in an incredibly short space of time a coach stood at the 
 door ready to convey the waiting messenger on his way 
 to Washington. i ^ .• .'U; 
 
 In the meantime in a conversation with the stage agent, 
 Meek had explained more fully the circumstances of his 
 mission, and the agent had become much interested. On 
 parting. Meek received a ticket to the Ilelay House, with 
 many expressions of regret from the agent that he could 
 ticket him no farther. 
 
 " But it is all the same," said he ; " you are sure to go 
 through." 
 
 " Or run a train off the track," rejoined Meek, as he 
 was bowed out of the office. 
 
 It happened that there were some other passengers 
 waiting to take the first stage, and they crowded into this 
 one, glad of the unexpected opportunity, but wondering 
 at the queer looking passenger to v/hom the agent was so 
 polite. This scarcely concealed curiosity was all that was 
 needed to stimulate the mad-cap spirits of our so far "con- 
 quering hero." Putting his head out of the window just 
 at the moment of starting, he electrified everybody, 
 horses included, by the utterance of a war-whoop and yell 
 that would have done credit to a wild Camanche. Satis 
 fied with the speed to which this demoniac noise had ex- 
 cited the driver's prancing steeds, ho quietly ensconced 
 himself in his corner of the coach and waited for his fel- 
 low passengers to recover from their stunned sensations. 
 
 

 THE VICXmiZED CONDLCTOIl. 
 
 445 
 
 When their complete recovery had been eflected, there 
 followoil the UHual questioning and exphmations, which 
 ended in the inevitable lionizing that was so much to the 
 niste of this sensational individual. 
 
 On the cars at Cumberland, and at the eating-houses, 
 the messenger from Oregon kept up his sensational char- 
 acter, indulging in alternate fits of mountain manners, and 
 asrain assuming a disproportionate amount of grandeur ; 
 biil in cither view proving himself very amusing. By the 
 time the train reached the Relay House, many of the pas- 
 sengers had become acquainted with Meek, and were pre- 
 pared to understand and enjoy each new phase of his 
 many-sided comicality. - ^ > 
 
 The ticket with which the stage agent presented him, 
 (lead headed him only to this point. Here again he must 
 make his poverty a jest, and joke himself through to 
 \\'^ashiiigton. Accordingly when the conductor came 
 tlironiih the car in which he, with several of his new 
 ac4uaintances were sitting, demanding tickets, he was 
 obliged to tap his blanketed passenger on the shoulder 
 to attract his attention to the "ticket, sir!" 
 
 '' JLi ko any me ca^ hanrhf^ said Meek, starting up 
 and tuldressing him in the Snake tongue. 
 
 "Ticket, sir!" repeated the conductor, staring. 
 
 '■ Ka hum jJci^ hanch ?" returned Meek, assuming a look 
 wliicli indicated that English Avas as puzzling to him, as 
 Snake to other people. 
 
 Finding that his time would be wasted on this singular 
 passenger, the conductor went on through the train ; re- 
 turning after a time with a fresh demand for his ticket. 
 But Meek sustained his character admirably, and it was 
 only through the excessive amusement of the passengers 
 that the conductor suspected that he was being made the 
 i^ubject of a practical joke. At this stage of aifairs it was 
 
 , i», 
 
446 
 
 ARRIVAL AT WASHINGTON 
 
 privately explained to him who and what his waggish cus- 
 tomer was, and tickets were no more mentioned durinir 
 the journey. 
 
 On the arrival of the train at Washington, the heart of 
 our hero became for a brief moment of time " very little," 
 He felt that the importance of his mission demanded some 
 dignity of appearance — some conformity to establislied 
 rules and precedents. But of the latter he knew abso- 
 lutely nothing ; and concerning the former, he realized 
 the absurdity of a dignitary clothed in blankets and a 
 wolf-skin cap. ' Joe Meek I must remain,' said he to him- 
 self, as he stepped out of the train, and glanced along the 
 platform at the crowd of porters with the names of their 
 hotels on their hat-bands. Learning from inquiry that 
 Coleman's was the most fashionable place, he decided that 
 to Coleman's he would go, judging correctly that it was 
 best to show no littleness of heart even in the matter af 
 hotels. 
 
 i ". 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 in 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 \ 
 
 k ■:,;: 
 
 M. ?;.(... • v;i-' •''.-: >■>! : ■ ■ -^ . ;• 
 
w 
 
 THE DWNER AT COLEMAN a 
 
 447 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 1848. When Meek arrived at Coleman's it "was the 
 dinner hour, and following the crowd to the dining saloon, 
 he took the first seat he came to, not without being very 
 much stared at. He had taken his cue and the staring 
 was not unexpected, consequently not so embarrassing as 
 it might otherwise have been. A bill of fare was laid be- 
 side his plate. Turning to the colored waiter who placed 
 it there, he startled him first by inquiring in a low growl- 
 
 .-.•,< 
 
 mg voice — 
 
 V- 4^?<*- 
 
 " What's that boy?" v^ri 
 
 "Bill of fare, sah," replied the "boy," who recognized 
 the Southerner in the use of that one word. 
 
 "Read!" growled Meek again. "The people in my 
 country can't read." 
 
 Though taken by surprise, the waiter, politely obedient, 
 proceeded to enumerate the courses on the bill of fare. 
 When he came to game 
 
 "Stop thar, boy!" commanded Meek, "what kind of 
 game?" 
 
 "Small game, sah." 
 
 " Fetch me a piece of antelope," leaning back in his 
 chair with a look of satisfaction on his face. 
 
 " Got none of that sah ; don't know what that ar' sah." 
 
 " Doa't know !" with a look of pretended surprise. "In 
 my country antelope and deer ar' small game ; bear and 
 buffalo ar' large game. I reckon if you haven't got one, 
 29 
 
 ( 
 
 
 % 
 
 i t^ j 
 
 i 
 
 ^s 
 
 \ 
 
 1 
 
 .11 
 
418 
 
 THE MESSENGER CREATES A SENSATION. 
 
 you havn't got the other, either. In that case you may 
 fetch me some beef." 
 
 The waiter disappeared grinning, and soon returned with 
 the customary thin and small cit, which Meek eyed at first 
 contemptuously, and then accepting it iij the light of a 
 sample swallowed it at two mouthfuls, returning bis plate 
 to the waiter with an approving smile, and saying loud 
 enough to be overheard by a score of people 
 
 " Boy, that will do. Fetch mc about four pounds of the 
 same kind." - . 
 
 By this time the blanketed beef-eater was the recipient 
 of general attention, and the "boy" who served him com- 
 prehending with that quickness which distinguishes ser- 
 vants, that he had no ordinary backwoodsman to deal with, 
 was all the time on the alert to make himself useful. Peo- 
 ple stared, then smiled, then asked each other " who is it?" 
 loud enough for the stranger to hear. Meek looked nei- 
 ther to the right nor to the left, pretending not to hear 
 the whispering. When he had finished his beef, he again 
 addressed himself to the attentive "boy." 
 
 " That's better meat than the old mule I eat in the moun- 
 tains." 
 
 Upon this remark the whispering became more general, 
 and louder, and smiles more frequent. 
 
 " What have you got to drink, boy?" continued Meek, 
 still unconscious. " Isn't there a sort of wine called— 
 some kind of ;pain ?" 
 
 " Champagne, sah ?" 
 
 " That's the stuff, I reckon ; bring me some." 
 
 While Meek drank his champagne, with an occasional 
 aside to his faithful attendant, people laughed and won- 
 dered " who the devil it was." At length, having finished 
 his wine, and overhearing many open inquiries as to his 
 identity, the hero of many bear-fights slowly arose, and 
 
 1^, 
 
RECOGXIZEI) HV SENATOR UNDERWOOD. 
 
 449 
 
 ;ase you may 
 
 jat in the moun- 
 
 addrcssing the company through the before-mentioucd 
 " boy," said : 
 
 " You want to know who I am ?" 
 
 " If you please, sah ; yes, if you please, sah, for the 
 sake of these gentlemen present," replied the "boy," an- 
 swering for the company. 
 
 "Wall then," proclaimed Meek with a grandiloquent 
 air quite at variance with his blanket coat and unkempt 
 hair, yet which displayed his fine person to advantage, "I 
 am Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary from 
 the Republic of Oregon to the Court of the tjnited 
 States!" 
 
 With that he turned and strode from the room. He 
 had not proceeded far, however, before he was overtaken 
 by a party of gentlemen in pursuit. Senator Underwood 
 of Kentucky immediately introduced himself, calling the 
 envoy by name, for the dispatch from St. Louis had pre- 
 pared the President and the Senate for Meek's appearance 
 in Washington, though it had not advised them of his 
 style of dress and address. Other gentlemen were intro- 
 duced, and questions followed questions in rapid succes- 
 sion. 
 
 When curiosity was somewhat abated, Meek expressed 
 a wish to see the President without delay. To Under- 
 wood's question as to whether he did not wish to make his 
 toilet before visiting the White House, his reply was, 
 "business first, and toilet afterwards." 
 
 "But," said Underwood, "even your business can wait 
 long enough for that." 
 
 "No, that's your mistake. Senator, and I'll tell you why: 
 I can't dress, for two reasons, both good ones. I've not 
 got a cent of money, nor a second suit of clothes." 
 
 The generous Kentuckian offered to remove the first of 
 
 
 
 v: /:, 
 
 f,< i- m 
 
450 
 
 VISIT TO THE WHITE HOUSE. 
 
 tijj 
 
 the ()l)jcctions on the spot, but Mock dc(.'lincd. "I'll see 
 tlio President first, and hear what he has to say about my 
 mission." Then calling a coach from the stand, he sprang 
 into it, answering the driver's question of where he would 
 be taken, with another inquiry. 
 
 "Whar should a man of wy style want to go? — to the 
 White House, of course !" and so was driven away amid 
 the general laughter of the gentlemen in the portico at 
 Coleman's, who had rather doubted his intention to pay 
 his respects to the President in his dirty blankets. 
 
 He wim admitted to the Presidential mansion by a mu- 
 latto of about his own age, with whom he remembered 
 playing when a lad, for it must be remembered that the 
 Meeks and Polks were related, and this servant had grown 
 up in the family. On inquiring if he could see the Presi- 
 dent, he was directed to the office of the private Secretary, 
 Knox Walker, also a relative of Meek's on the mothers 
 side. 
 
 On entering he found the room filled with gentlemen 
 waiting to see the President, each when his turn to be ad- 
 mitted should arrive. The Secretary sat reading a paper, 
 over the top of which he glanced but once at the new 
 comer, to ask him to be seated. But Meek was not in the 
 humor for sitting. He had not traveled express for more 
 than two months, in storm and cold, on foot and on horse- 
 back, by day and by night, with or without food, as it 
 chanced, to sit down quietly now and wait. So he took a 
 few turns up and down the room, and seeing that the 
 Secretary glanced at him a little curiously, stopped and 
 Sjaid: 
 
 ' "I should like to see the President immediately. Just 
 tell him if you please that there is a gentleman from Ore- 
 gon waiting to see him on very important business." 
 
 •• ^i»..t.<r ^:'Xf iioi.)q'.' •; . ., 
 
INTKUVIKW WITH PRESIDENT POLK. 
 
 451 
 
 At the word Onyon, the Secretary sprang up, dashed 
 hiri piifmr to the ground, and crying out "Uncle Joe!" 
 ciunc forward with botli hands extended to ijrrect his louir 
 lost rehitive, 
 
 "Take care, Knox! don't come too close," said Meek 
 stopping back, "I'm ragged, dirty, and — lousy." 
 
 4 
 
 t 
 
 "TAKE CARE, KNOX." 
 
 But Walker seized his cousin's hand, without seeming 
 feiu- of the consequences, and for a few moments there 
 was an animated exchange of questions and answers, which 
 Meek at last interrupted to repeat his request to be admit- 
 ted to the President without delay. Several times the Sec- 
 retary turned to leave the room, but as often came back 
 with some fresh inquiry, until Meek fairly refused to say 
 another word, until he had delivered his dispatches. 
 
 When once the Secretary got away he soon returned 
 v.ith a request from the President for the appearance of 
 t!ie Oregon messenger, all other visitors being dismissed 
 for that day. Polk's reception proved as cordial as Wtilk- 
 
 
 ■11 
 
 ■fe= 
 '1 
 
 't^,-k 
 
t 
 
 452 INTRODUCED TO THE LADIES BADLY FUIGIITENED. 
 
 I' 
 
 er's had been. lie seized the hand of his newly found 
 relative, and welcomed him in his own name, as well as 
 that of messenger from the distant, much loved, and lour 
 neglected Oregon. The interview lasted for a couple of 
 hours. Oregon affairs and family allairs were talked over 
 together; the President promising to do all for Oregon 
 that he could do ; at the same time he bade Meek make 
 himself at home in the rresidential mansion, with true 
 southern hospitality. 
 
 But Meek, although he had carried off his poverty and 
 all his deficiencies in so brave a style hitherto, felt his as- 
 surance leaving him, when, his errand performed, he stood- 
 in the presence of rank and elegance, a mere mountain- 
 man in ragged blankets, whose only wealth consisted of 
 an order for five hundred dollars on the Methodist mission 
 in New York, unavailable for present emergencies. And 
 so he declined the hospitalities of the White House, say 
 ing he "could make himself at home in an Indian wigwam 
 in Oregon, or among the Rocky Mountains, but in the 
 residence of the chief magistrate of a great nation, he felt 
 out of place, and ill at ease." > r 
 
 Polk, however, would listen to no refusal, and still fnr 
 ther abashed his Oregon cousin by sending for Mrs. Polk 
 and Mrs. Walker, to make his acquaintance. Says Meek: 
 
 "When I heard the silks rustling in the passage, I felt 
 more frightened than if a hundred Plackfeet had whooped 
 in my ear. A mist came over my eyes, and when Mrs. 
 Polk spoke to me I couldn't think of anything to say in 
 return." 
 
 But the ladies were so kind and courteous that he soon 
 began to see a little, though not quite plainly while their 
 visit lasted. Before the interview with the President and 
 his family was ended, the poverty of the Oregon envoy 
 became known, which led to the immediate supplying of 
 
UIGIITENEn. 
 
 THE TWO OREGON REPRESENTATrVES. 
 
 453 
 
 all his wants. Major Polk was called in and introduced; 
 and to him was deputed the business of seeiiip^ Meek 
 ''ffot up" in a style creditable to himself und his relations. 
 Mcok avers that when ho had gone through the hands of 
 tliohiirber and tailor, and surveyed himself in a full length 
 mirror, he was at first rather embarrass(!d, Ixnng under the 
 imi)rossion that he was being introduced to a fasliionablo 
 and decidedly good-looking gentleman, before whose over. 
 j)()\vcriiig style ho w.as disposed to shrink, with the old fa- 
 miliar feeling of being in blankets. 
 
 But Meek was not the sort of man to be long in getting 
 used to a situation however novel or difficult. In a very 
 short time he was au fait in the customs of the capital. 
 His perfect frankness led people to laugh at his errors as 
 eccentricities ; his good looks and natural hunhomie pro- 
 cured him plenty of admirers ; while his position at the 
 White House caused him to be envied and lionized at 
 once. 
 
 On the day following his arrival the President sent in a 
 message to Congress accompanied by the memorial from 
 the Oregon legislature and other documents appertaining 
 to the Oregon cause. Meek was introduced to Benton, 
 Oregon's indefatigable friend, and received from him the 
 kindest treatment; also to Dallas, President of the Senate; 
 Donglas, Fremont, Gen. Houston, and all the men who 
 had identified themselves with the interests of the West. 
 
 It will be remembered that only a short time previous 
 to the Waiilatpu massacre a delegate had left Oregon for 
 Washington, by ship around Cape Horn, who had been 
 accredited by the governor of the colony only, and that 
 the legislature had subsequently passed resolutions expres- 
 sive of their disapproval of "secret factions," by which 
 was meant the mission party, whose delegate Mr. Thorn- 
 ton was. 
 
 if 
 
 1. ' ', 
 
 J.4 ? 
 
 
 \l 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 I 
 
454 
 
 THE OllLUON DILL IN TlIK SENATE. 
 
 
 It so linpponcd that, by reason of the commander oftlie 
 Porisiaonth having assumod it to be a duty to convey Mr. 
 Tlioniton IVop- La I'az, whero through thi; iiifidoHty of tlio 
 Captain of the Whitto)i, ho was stranded, ho was eimLled 
 to roach tho States ourly in the Spring, arriving in fucta 
 week or two before Mock readied Wasliington. Thus 
 Oregon liad tv/o reprcscntativoH, although not outidcd to 
 any : nor liad either a right to a seat in cither House; yet 
 to one this courtesy was granted, while the two togctlior 
 controlled more powerful influences than were ever before 
 or since brought to boar on the fate of any single terri- 
 tory of tho United States. While Mr. Thornton sat air'^ig 
 Senators as a sort of consulting member or referee, but 
 without a vote; Meek had the private ear of the Presi- 
 dent, and mingled freely among members of both Houses, 
 in a social character, thereby exercising a more immediate 
 influence than his more learned coadjutor. Happily their 
 aims were not dissimilar, although their characters were; 
 and the proper and prudish mission delegate, though he 
 might often be shocked by the private follies of the legis- 
 lative messenger from Oregon, could find no fault with the 
 manner in which he discl.cirged his duty to their common 
 country. 
 
 The bill to admit Oregon as a territory which had been 
 so long before Congress, and failed only because certain 
 southern Senators insisted on an amendment allowing slave 
 property to be introduced into that territory, was again 
 under discussion in the Senate. The following extract 
 from a speech of Benton's, delivered May 31st, before the 
 Senate, shows how his energies were taxed in support of 
 the Oregon cause — a cause which he had fostered from its 
 infancy, and which he never deserted until • his efforts to 
 extend the United States government t" <he Pacific Ocean 
 were crowned with success: — ->« >-- jp^ 
 
EXTllACT I UOM HENTON 8 OIIEOON SPEECH. 
 
 455 
 
 sliiii'Moii. Thus 
 
 » Only flirco or four yciirs a^o, the wbolo Unitt^d Stiitcs H»!einn(I to lie in- 
 llaiiiitl with a ilcsirc lo ^ot ponsiicsion of ()n';^oii. It wan one of tht^ al)Ki»iliin;r 
 ;iiii| ii;.'iliiliiit; niu'stioii!* of tins foiitiiicnt. To otitain oxcln^ivt? po.s-ti'snioii of 
 Ore;.'!"', tl"' t^rcaft'Kt I'llbrts woro inadu, and it was at lun^di ob'aiiu'd. Wluit 
 next? Alb'r tills nctiial occupation of tlic entire continent, and liavin;; thus 
 (i|ilaiiu'<l exchi.-.ve po8m'^^sion of On-gon in oi'ih-r that we inii.dil (iuvern it, we 
 have seen Kes.sion atler feHsiou of Coni^ress pass away witluiut a single thin^f 
 licin;; <1"'>*' '"f t'^^' k"*'"""'"^'"* o* •* country, to obtain posgession of which wo 
 Wire williii},' to fio to war with Kn^dand I 
 
 Year after year, and Hessinn alter «e.sHion have gum by, and to this day tho 
 laws of the United States have not b'jen extendw' o.er that Territory. In tlio 
 mean lime, a j^reat connnnnity is (j;rowin^ up ( ere, ( 'njKised fit Uiis time of 
 twelve tliousand souls — persons from all parn. of the worM, from Asia as well 
 thmi Europe and America — and whieh, till this time, have been jireserved 
 ill order by comi)act amon}>; tiieinsclves. fireat eilbris have been nlallt^ to pre- 
 serve order — most meritorious elForts, which haM' evinced their anxiety to 
 maintain their own reputation and that of the country to which they bilonjj;. 
 Tlitir elfurts have been eminently nieritoriou« ; but we all know that voluntary 
 oiivcrnments cannot last — that they are temporary in their very nature, and 
 inii.4 eneoimter rude shocks and resistance, untler which they must fall, lie- 
 siilcs the inconvenience resultin*? from the absence of an or^^anized {government, 
 we are to rcciollect that there never y»'.t has been a civili7,e<l settlement in terri- 
 tiiry occupietl l)y the aboriginal inhabitants, in which a war between the rJK'cs 
 has not occurred. Down to the present moment, the settlers in Oregon had 
 e«caped a conflict witJi the Indians. Now the war between them is breaking 
 out ; and I cannot resist the conviction, that if tliere had been a regularly or- 
 (.'anized government in that country, innnediately after the treaty with Great 
 Britain, with a military force to sustain it, — for a government in such ,. region, 
 fo nmote, would bo nothing without military force, — the calamities now im- 
 pomliag over that country might have been averted. 
 
 But no government was established; and now all these evils arc coming 
 upon these people, as everybody muat liave foreseen thoy would come ; and in 
 tlie depih of wlmer, they send to us a special messenger, who makes his way 
 across the Rocky Mountains at a time when almost every living thing perished 
 in the snow- -when the snow was at such a depth that nothing could penetrate 
 ti) tlie bottom of it. lie made his way across, however, and brings these com- 
 plaints which wo now hear. They arc in a suflfering condition. Not a moment 
 of time is to be lost. If the bill were passed this instant, — this morning, as 
 I hoped it would be, — it would require tho utmost degree of vigor in the execu- 
 tion of it to be able to send troops across tho ivocky Mountains before the sea- 
 son of dctep snow. They sliould cross the mountains before the month of Sep- 
 tember. I waa in hopes then, that on this occasion, there would be nothing to 
 delay action — that we shoidd all have united in deploring that for yciirs the 
 proposition to give these people govcrimient .ind laws has been defeated by the 
 introduction of a question of no practical consequenco, but which has had tho 
 
 I, 
 
 i I I' ^' 
 
•-Vf-.fy-f • 
 
 456 
 
 EXTRACT FROM BENTON S OREGON SPEECH. 
 
 effect of depriving these people of all government, and bringing about the 
 nias.'sacrcs which have taken place, and in which the benevolent missionary has 
 Ikllen in the midst of his labors. All the calamities which have taken nlace in 
 that country have resulted from mixing up this (juestion, which has not a par- 
 tide of practical value, with all the measures which have been introduced for 
 the organization of a government in Oregon. All the laws passed by tlie Con- 
 gress of the United States can have no effect on the question of slavery there. 
 In that country there is a law superior to any which Congress can jjass on the 
 sul)ject of slavery. Tliere is a law of climate, of position, and of Nature her- 
 self, against it. Besides, the people of the country itself, by far the larwest 
 ninnber of whom have gone out from slave-holding States, many of them from 
 the State of Missouri, in their organic law, communicated to Congress more 
 than a year ago, and printed among our documents at the last session, declare 
 that the law of nature is against slavery in that region. Who would think of 
 carrying slaves to the Lake of the Woods ? and what would anybody think of 
 a law of Congress which should say that slavery should or should not exist 
 there ? I was in hopes, then, that this bill would be allowed to pass throuch 
 this morning. And it was in order to avoid any delay that I did not make a 
 separate bill to raise the regiments necessary to sustain the government tliere, 
 I did hope, that on this occasion — when a great political measure of the highest 
 importance is pending, which has been delayed for years, and which delay has 
 brought on the massacres of which we now hear — this question, which has 
 already produced these calamities, would not have been introduced, and that 
 some other ojiportunity would have been taken for its discussion. Tliere will 
 be opportunities enough for its discussion. Tlie doors of legislation are open 
 to it as a separate measure. I trust, even now. that this question will not be 
 permitted to delay our action. The delay of a few days here will be the delay 
 of a year in Oregon. Delay at all now, is delay not for a week or a month, but 
 for a year, during all which time these calamities will continue. 
 
 With respect to the question itself, I am ready to meet it in every shape and 
 form. Let me here say, that no gentleman on this floor must assume to be the 
 representative of the fifteen slave-holding States. I assume to represent one- 
 no more than one — and if I can satisfy my constituents, my duty is performed. 
 I invade no gentleman's bailiwick, and no one shall invade mine. Let every one 
 speak for himself. Tins Federal Government was made for something else 
 than to have this pestiferous question constantly thrust upon us to the interrup- 
 tion of the most important business. I am willing to vote down this question 
 at this moment ; I am willing to take it up and act upon it in all its extent and 
 bearings, at the proper time, when its consideration will not interrupt andj 
 destroy important measures. What I protest against is, to have the real busi- 
 ness of the country — the pressing, urgent, crying business of the country- 
 stopped, prostrated, defeated, by thrusting this tjuestion ujtou us. Wc read in 
 Holy Writ, that a certain people were cursed by the plague of frogs, and that 
 the plague was everywhere, You could Dot look upon the table but there were 
 
 
WASHINGTON SOCIETY CURIOSITY OP LADIES. 
 
 457 
 
 fioTS ; you could not sit down at the banquet but there were frogs ; you could 
 not I'D to the bridal couch and lift the sheets but there were frogs I We can 
 ftx nothing, touch nothing, have no mesisures proposed, without having this 
 lu'stilc'iKi' thrust before us. Here it is, this black (picstion, forever on the 
 t;il)lo, nil tlic nuptial couch — everywhere ! So it was nui in tlie better days of 
 tilt; K('pnl)]ic. I remember the time when no one would have thought of ask- 
 iiiir a public man what his views were on the extension of slavery, any more 
 than what was the length of his foot ; and those were happy days which, al- 
 tliuujrh gone by, arc remembered, and may, perhaps, be brought back. 
 
 We ought to vote down this amendment as a thing which should not bo 
 allowed to interrupt our action. Our action should not be delayed a single 
 moniont. This cruel war, which cannot continue in Oregon without extending 
 to California, must be stopped without delay. Oregon and California must be 
 sued from the desolation of an Indian war. Whatever opinions may be en- 
 tiitaincd ii])on the subject of sliivery, let us agree on this point, that we will 
 give law and government to the people of Oregon, and stop, if we can, the 
 progress of this Indian war." . ' '' " ■■ •— • ; j-/ -.- ^u; ^ . "f'tv 
 
 This was the tone which the friends of Oregon pre- 
 served through that last session of Congress in which the 
 Oregon bill was under discussion. -- - •^ 
 
 In the meantime our hero was making the most of his 
 advantages. He went to dinners and champagne suppers, 
 besides giving an occasional one of the latter. At the 
 presidential levees he made himself agreeable to witty and 
 distinguished ladies, answering innumerable questions 
 about Oregon and Indians, generally with a veil of reserve 
 between himself and the questioner whenever the inqui- 
 rio;] became, as they sometimes would, disagreeably search- 
 in,;, Again the spirit of perversity and mischief led him 
 t(i make his answers so very direct as to startle or bewilder 
 the questioner. 
 
 On one occasion a lady with whom he was promenading 
 a drawing-room at some Senator's reception, admiring his 
 handsome physique perhaps, and wondering if any woman 
 owned it, finally ventured the question — was he married ? 
 
 "Yes, indeed," answered Meek, with emphasis, "I have 
 a wife and several childrep.,." ,,, , ,, 
 
 
458 
 
 KIT CARSON THE CONTINGENT FUND. 
 
 "Oh dear," exclaimed the lady, " I should think your 
 wife would be so afraid of the Indians!" 
 
 "Afraid of the Indians!" exclaimed Meek in his turn' 
 " why, madam, she is an Indian herself!" 
 
 No further remarks on the subject were ventured that 
 evening ; ai.'d it is doubtful if the lady did not take liis 
 answer as a rebuke to her curiosity rather than the plain 
 truth that it was. 
 
 Meek found his old comrade, Kit Carson, in Washington, 
 staying with Fremont at the house of Senator Benton. 
 Kit, ^vho had left the mountains as poor as any other of 
 the mountain-men, had no resource at that time except 
 the pay furnished by Fremont for his services as guide and 
 explorer in the California and Oregon expeditions; where, 
 in fact, it was Carson and not Fremont who deserved fame 
 as a path-finder. However that may be, Carson had as 
 little money as men of his class usually have, and needed 
 it as much. So long as Meck's purse was supplied, as it 
 generally was, by some member of the family at the White 
 House, Carson could borrow from him. But one being 
 quite as careless of money as the other, they were some- 
 times both out of pocket at the same time. In that case 
 the conversation was apt to take a turn like this : 
 
 Carson. Meek, let me have some money, can't you? 
 
 Meek I hav 'nt got any money. Kit. 
 
 Carson. Go and get some. 
 
 Meek. it, whar am I to get money from? 
 
 Carson. Try the "contingent fund," can't you? 
 
 Truth to tell the contingent fund was made to pay for 
 a good many things not properly chargeable to the neces- 
 sary expenditures of "Envoy Extraordinary" like our 
 friend from Oregon. 
 
 The favoritism with which our hero was everywhere re- 
 ceived was something remarkable, even when all the cir- 
 
^^^m 
 
 GRAND RECEPTION AT BALTIMORE. 
 
 459 
 
 cumstanccs of his relationsliip to the chief magistrate, and 
 the popuharity of the Oregon question were considered. 
 Doubtless the novelty of having a bear-fighting and In- 
 dian-fighting Rocky Mountain man to lionize, was one 
 great secret of the furore which greeted him wherever he 
 ivent ; but even that fails to account fully for the enthu- 
 siasm he awakened, since mountain-men had begun to be 
 pretty well known and understood, from the journal of 
 Fremont and other explorers. It could only have been 
 the social genius of the man which enabled him to over- 
 come the impediments of lack of education, and the asso- 
 ciations of half a lifetime. But whatever was the fortu- 
 nate cause of his success, he enjoyed it to the full. Vie 
 took excursions about the country in all directions, 
 petted and spoiled like any "curled darling" instead of 
 the six-foot-two Rocky Mountain trapper that he was. 
 
 Ill June he received an invitation to Baltimore, tender- 
 ed by the city council, and was received by that body 
 with the mayor at its head, in whose carriage he was con- 
 veyed to Monument Square, to be welcomed by a thou- 
 sand ladies, smiling and showering roses upon him as he 
 passed. And kissing the roses because he could not kiss 
 the ladies, he bowed and smiled himself past the festive 
 groups waiting to receive the messenger from Oregon. 
 Music, dining, and the parade usual to such occasions 
 distinguished this day, which Meek declares to have been 
 the proudest of his life ; not denying that the beauty of 
 the Baltimore ladies contributed chiefly to produce that 
 impression. 
 
 On the fourth of July, Polk laid the corner stone of the 
 National Monument. The occasion was celebrated with 
 great eclat^ the address being delivered by Winthrop, the 
 military display, and the fire-works in the evening being 
 unusually fine. In the procession General Scott and staff 
 
 1f^ 
 
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r,'t •-^T'-.."''-i ..'.'"TV- -;T^'-r^'-v 
 
 h' 
 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 j 
 
 
 
 
 ■ 
 
 ! 
 1 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 »- 
 
 460 THE LOWELL FACTORY GIRLS NATURAL REGRETS. 
 
 rode on one side of the President's carriage, Col. May and 
 Meek on the other, — Meek making a great display of 
 horsemanship, in which as a mountain-man he excelled. 
 
 A little later in the summer Meek joined a party of Con- 
 gressmen who were making campaign speeches in the 
 principal cities of the north. At Lowell, Mass., he visited 
 the cotton factories, and was equally surprised at the ex- 
 tent of the works, and the number of young women em- 
 ployed in them. Seeing this, the forewoman requested 
 him to stop until noon and see the girls come out. As 
 they passed in review before him, she asked if he had 
 made his choice. 
 
 "No," replied the gallant Oregonian, " it would be im- 
 possible to choose, out of such a lot as that ; I should have 
 to take them all." 
 
 If our hero, under all his gaity smothered a sigh of re- 
 gret that he was not at liberty to take one — a woman like 
 those with whom for the first time in his life he was privi- 
 leged to associate — who shall blame him ? The kind of 
 life he was living now was something totally different to 
 anything in the past. It opened to his comprehension 
 delightful possibilities of what might have been done and 
 enjoyed under other circumstances, yet which now never 
 could be done or enjoyed, until sometimes he was rea^^ 
 to fly from all these allurements, and hide himself again 
 in th'3 Rocky Mountains. Then again by a desperate eiFort, 
 such thoughts were banished, and he rushed more eagerly 
 than before into every pleasure afforded by the present 
 moment, as if to make the present atone for the past and 
 the future. 
 
 The kindness of the ladies at the White House, while it 
 was something to be grateful for, as well as to make him 
 envied, often had the effect to disturb his tranquility by 
 the suggestions it gave rise to. Yet he was always de- 
 
 1' 
 
REGRETS. 
 
 ..•' I ; ^ ' 1^ -1. i'f ^ ■:'.- , j v' 
 
 M^\ 
 
 Col. May and 
 at display of 
 le excelled. 
 L party of Con- 
 seches in the 
 Lss., he visited 
 ed at the ex- 
 g women ein- 
 lan requested 
 oine out. As 
 icd if he had 
 
 would be im- 
 I should have 
 
 . a sigh of re- 
 -a woman hke 
 he was privi- 
 The kind of 
 ly different to 
 omprehension 
 )€en done and 
 :;h now never 
 he was rea^ 
 himself again 
 sperate effort, 
 more eagerly 
 ly the present 
 • the past and 
 
 ouse, while it 
 I to make him 
 tranquility by 
 as always de- 
 
 
COMMODORE WILKES- 
 
 -" OREGON LIES." 
 
 4G1 
 
 maridiiiK i^ always accepting it. So constantly was he 
 the attendant of his lady cousins in public and in private, 
 riding and driving, or sauntering in the gardens of the 
 presidential mansion, that the less favored among their 
 aquaintances felt called upon to believe themselves ag- 
 irrieved. Often, as the tall form of our hero was seen 
 with a lady on either arm promenading the gardens at 
 evening, the question would pass among the curious but 
 uninitiated — " Who is that '?" And the reply of some 
 
 jealous grumbler would be — "It is that Rocky 
 
 Mountain man," so loud sometimes as to be overheard by 
 the careless trio, who smothercfll a laugh behind a hat or 
 a fin. ■ ..:■ .'■ '■ ."' - : - ' 
 
 And so passed that brief summer of our hero's life. A 
 great deal of experience, of sight-seeing, and enjoyment 
 had been crowded into a short few months of time. He 
 had been introduced to and taken by the hand by the 
 most celebrated men of the day. Nor had he failed to 
 meet with men whom he had known in the mountains and 
 in Oregon. His old employer, Wilkes, who was ill in 
 Washington, sent for him to come and tell " some of those 
 Oregon lies" for his amusement, and Meek, to humor him, 
 stretched some of his good stories to the most wonderful 
 dimensions. 
 
 But from the very nature of the enjoyment it could not 
 last long ; it was too vivid and sensational for constant 
 wear. Feeling this, he began to weary of Washington, 
 and more particularly since he had for the last few weeks 
 been stopping away from the White House. In one of his 
 restless moods he paid a visit to Polk, who detecting the 
 
 state of his mind asked laughingly ., 
 
 "Well, Meek, what do you want now?" • 
 
 " I want to be franked." ' - 
 
 *' How long will five hundred dollars last you ?" 
 
 hV, 
 
 < ^ 
 
462 
 
 EXTRAVAGANT HABITS. 
 
 "About as many days as there ar' hundreds, I reckon." 
 
 " You are shockingly extravagant, Meek. Where do 
 you think all this money is to come from ?" 
 
 " It is not my business to know, Mr. President," replied 
 Meek, laughing, " but it is the business of these United 
 States to pay the expenses of the messenger from Oregon 
 isn't it ?" 
 
 " I think I will send you to the Secretary of War to be 
 franked. Meek ; his frank is better than mine. But no, 
 stay ; I will speak to Knox about it this time. And yoii 
 must not spend your money so recklessly, Meek; it will 
 not do — it wall not do." #■ 
 
 Meek thanked the President both for the money and the 
 advice, but gave a champagne supper the next night, and 
 in a week's time was as empty-handed as ever. Washing- 
 ton manners were in some respects too much like moun- 
 tain manners for five hundred dollars to go a great ways. 
 
 ■fvl 
 
 .. ' • • ■ i<'}~T -I ■'. ,' ■ 
 
MU. THORNTON AS UEPRESENTATIVE OF OREGON. 463 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 r 
 
 We must go back a little way and take up the thread 
 of Oregon's political history as it relates to the persons 
 and events of which we have .been writing. However 
 irregular had been the appointment of a delegate for 
 Oregon, while still unrecognized by the general govern- 
 ment, and however distasteful as a party measure the ap- 
 pointment of Mr. Thornton had been to a majority of the 
 people of Oregon, there was nevertheless sufficient merit 
 ill his acts., since events had turned out as they had, to 
 reconcile even his enemies to them. For what did it con- 
 cern the people who procured or helped to procure the 
 blessings they asked for, so only that they were made sure 
 of the blessings. •'-^■' ■ li: 
 
 Mr. Thornton had done what he could in Washington 
 to secure for Oregon the things desired by her citizens. 
 Immediately on his arrival he had prepared, at the instance 
 of Mr. Polk, a memorial to Congress setting forth the con- 
 dition of the country and the wants of the colony. In 
 addition to this he had prayed for the passage of a law 
 organijiing a territorial government, and donating land- 
 claims. To be sure Congress had been memorialized on 
 these subjects for years, and all to no purpose. But there 
 ^vas a decided advantage in having a man versed in law 
 and conversant with legal forms as well as territorial wants, 
 to assist in getting up the bills concerning Oregon. Be- 
 sides, Thornton was a conscientious man, and would not 
 
 agree to a fraud. 
 30 
 
 
 I 
 
4G4 
 
 THE TERUITOUIAL DILL IN THE SENATE. 
 
 The territoriiil bill was gotten up among the friends of 
 Oregon in the Free-Soil party, and had incorporated into 
 it the ordinance of 1787, prohibiting slavery, and this was 
 so not only because the free-soilera desired it, but because 
 the people of Oregon desired it. But a few sagacious 
 Southern members had conceived the idea of making Mr. 
 Thornton responsible for the expunging of the obnoxious 
 clause, by trying to convince him that the bill could never 
 be passed with the ordinance of 1787 in it, and that would 
 he, Thornton, but consent to have it stricken out, they 
 were assured that the friends of free-soil would allow it to 
 pass for the sake of waiting, expectant Oregon, So rea- 
 soned Calhoun and others. 
 
 Thornton, however, was both too wise and too faithful 
 to be humbugged in that specious manner. He assured 
 Mr. Calhoun that in the first place he had no authority to 
 consent to the expunging of the ordinance of 1787; in 
 the second place, that the people of Oregon would wait 
 for a territorial government until they could obtain one 
 which promised them free institutions ; and in the third 
 place, that he did not believe the free-soil party would ever 
 allow the bill to pass, amended as Mr. Calhoun proposed; 
 therefore that had he the authority to consent to the amend- 
 ment, he should gain nothing, but lose all by doing so. 
 
 Thus, through the almost entire summer, the friends 
 and the enemies of free-soil quarreled and schemed over 
 Oregon. Not that any were really opposed to the exten- 
 sion of the Government over that territory, but only that 
 the Southern members objected to more free soil. 
 
 The President was very anxious that the bill should 
 pass in some shape during his administration. Benton of 
 Missouri, was eager for its passage as it was. Butler of 
 South Carolina, fiercely opposed to it. Numerous were 
 the skirmishes which these two Senators had over the 
 
thl: uill opposed by southkhnkhs. 
 
 4G5 
 
 Oregon question ; and a duel would, in one instance, havo 
 lesultod, had not the arrest of the parties put a termina- 
 tion to the alViiir. . . . , . . > , 
 
 Tiie land bill too, gave considerable trouble; not from 
 jiiiy opposition it encountered, but because nobody knew 
 I,()W much land to give each settler. Some Congressmen, 
 in the magnificence of their generosity and compassion, 
 were for granting one thousand acres to every white male 
 settler of the territory. The committee who had this bill 
 ill liand, on consulting the two Oregon representatives, 
 were informed that the proposed donation was altogether 
 tuo largo, and it was subsequently reduced. 
 
 The close of the session was at hand and nothing had 
 i)een done except to talk. Congress was to adjourn at 
 noon on Monday, August 14th, and it was now Saturday 
 the 12th. The friends of Oregon were anxious; the two 
 waiting Oregonians nearly desperate. On this morning 
 of the 12th, the friends of the bill, under Benton's lead, de- 
 termined upon obtaining a vote on the final passage of the 
 bill; resolving that they would not yield to ^..d usual mo- 
 tions for delay and adjournments, but that they would, if 
 necessary, sit until twelve o'clock Monday. 
 
 Oil the other hand, the southern members, finding that 
 110 motion for adjournment could be made to prevail, But- 
 ler, of South Carolina, moved that the Senate go into ex- 
 ecutive session. This was done because under the rules 
 of the Senate, the Oregon bill would necessarily give 
 place to the business of the executive session. And the 
 business to which Senator Butler proposed to call the at- 
 tention of the senate was certain conduct of the gentle- 
 man from Missouri, which he characterized as dishonorable. 
 
 At the word " dishonorable " Benton sprang to bis feet, 
 exclaiming — "You lie, sir! you lie! ! I cram the lie down 
 your throat! ! !" at the same time advancing toward Butler 
 
 
4G6 
 
 SCENE BETWEEN Bim.ER AND UENTOX. 
 
 
 ; 1 
 ■ t 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 
 with his fist clenched and niiscd in a threatening manner 
 IJntler on his part seemed very willing to engage in a per- 
 sonal conflict, awaiting his antagonist with the genuine 
 game look which has formerly been supposed to be one 
 of the signs of good southern blood. ■ " 
 
 But a fight on the floor of the Senate between two of 
 its white-haired members could not be sufl'ered to go on 
 the combatants being separated by the other Senators. 
 who crowded in between. The eyes of Butler burned 
 fiercely as he said to Benton over the heads of his of- 
 ficious friends, — 
 
 "I will sec you, sir, at another time and place!" 
 
 "Very well, sir;" returned Benton: "but you will do 
 well to understand that when I fight, I fight for a fu- 
 neral!" 
 
 That this affair did not terminate in <i funeral was 
 probably owing to the arrest of the parties. 
 
 At ten o'clock Saturday evening, order having been re- 
 stored, and no adjournment having yet prevailed, Senator 
 Foote of Mississippi, arose and commenced to speak in a 
 manner most irritatingly drawling and dull ; saying thai 
 since there was to be no adjournment before twelve o'clock 
 Monday noon, he proposed to entertain to the best of his 
 ability the grave deliberative body before him. 
 
 Commencing at the creation of Adam, he gave the Bi- 
 ble Story — the creation of Eve ; the fall of man ; the his- 
 tory of the children of Israel ; the stories of the proph- 
 ets ; ecclesiastical history, — only yielding the floor for a 
 motion, at intervals of an hour each, continuing to drawl 
 through the time hour after hour. 
 
 Sleepy senators betook themselves to the anteroom to 
 lunch, to drink, to talk to the waiting ones, and to sleep. 
 But whenever a motion w.as made, a page aroused the 
 sleepers and they took their seats and voted. 
 
SE.VATOll FOOTk'b LECTURE — THE LiLL PASBEI). 407 
 
 (1 funeral was 
 
 Thus \vor(3 the nij^lit away. The Sabbath iiiorniiig'H sun 
 arose, and atill Footo was in the midst of his BibU) disqui- 
 HJlions. At lenj^th, two hours after sunrise, a consultation 
 was held between Butler, Mason, Calhoun, Davis and 
 Foote, which resulted in the announcement that no further 
 opposition would be offered to taking the vote upon the 
 liiiiil passage of the Oregon bill. The vote was then ta- 
 ken, the bill passed, and the weary senate adjourned, to 
 uioct again on Monday for a final adjournment. 
 
 After ihe adjournment on Sunday morning, Benton in 
 alhuliiig to the scene between himself and the senator 
 I'roiu South Carolina, said, "he did not blame Judge But- 
 ler so much as he might ; because that scoundrel 
 
 Calhoun was urging Butler to it, while he himself sat say- 
 ing nothing, and doing nothing, but looking as demure as 
 a courtesan at a christening." i., , , .. -.; 
 
 Truly "such are the compliments that pass when gen- 
 tlemen meet." '-(v^'v:; t;, ::...> '/-li--.' .'-^ 'J.,,.*. ■ , .... . 
 
 The Land bill, or Donation act, as it is generally known, 
 failed of being passed at this session, simply because it 
 had to wait for the Territorial bill to be passed, being 
 supplementary to it, and because after the passage of that 
 bill there was no time to take up the other. 
 
 As Thornton had been chiefly instrumental in getting 
 the Donation bill into shape, it was a severe disappoint- 
 ment, in not having it passed at the same session with the 
 Territorial bill, and having to return to Oregon with- 
 out this welcome present to the people of the new ter- 
 ritory. 
 
 Collamer of Vermont, sympathizing with the failure of 
 the Donation Law, proposed to T .ornton to draw up a 
 new bill including some amendments suggested by him, 
 and to forward the same to his ('Collamer's) address, prom- 
 ising to see what could be done with it thereafter. This 
 
 ft * 
 
 i 
 
 jl^l^M 
 
468 
 
 FAILURE OF THE LAND BILL. 
 
 -■■1: 
 
 Thornton did, and also carried a copy of it home to Ore- 
 gon, and placed it in the hands of Oregon's first delegate 
 to Congress, who, after making a few alterations in the 
 bill, adopted and claimed it for his own. Tiie bill thus 
 amended and re-amended, became a law in September 
 1850 ; and of that law we shall have occasion to speak 
 hereafter. 
 
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 If 
 
 
 
MEEK APPOINTED U. a. MAliaUAL FOii OliEGON. 
 
 469 
 
 CHAPTER XLI, 
 
 1848-9. The long suspense ended, Meek prepared to 
 return Lo Oregon, if not without some regrets, at the same 
 time not unwillingly. His restless temper, and life-long 
 habits of unrestrained freedom began to revolt against the 
 conventionality of his position in Washington. Besides, 
 in appointing officers for the new territory, Polk had made 
 him United States Marshal, than which no office could 
 have suited him better, and "le was as prompt to assume 
 the discharge of its duties, as all his life he had been to 
 inidortake any duty to which his fortunes assigned him. 
 
 On the 20th of August, only six days after the passage 
 of the territorial bill, he received his papers from Buchan- 
 an, and set off" for Bedford Springs, whither the family 
 from the White House were flown to escape from the suf- 
 focating ai.'* of Washington in August. He had brought 
 his papers to be signed by Polk, and being expected by 
 the President found everything arranged for his speedy 
 de|)arture ; Polk even ordering a seat for him in the up- 
 coming coach, by telegraph. On learning this from the 
 President, at dinner, when the band was playing. Meek 
 turned to the leader and ordered him to play " Sweet 
 Home," much to the amusement of his lady cousins, who 
 had their own views of the sweets of a home in Oregon. 
 A hurried farewell, spoken to each of his friends sepa- 
 rately, and Oregon's new Marshal was ready to proceed 
 on his long journey toward the Pacific. 
 
■ r^w- ■ 
 
 470 
 
 PAY OF THE DELEGATES THE LION S SHAEE. 
 
 (•: " 
 
 The occasion of Polk's haste in the matter of gettiiiff 
 Meek started, was his anxiety to have the Oregon govern- 
 ment become a fact before the expiration of his term of 
 office. The appointment of Governor of the new terri- 
 tory had been offered to Shields, and declined. Another 
 commission had been made out, appointing General Jo- 
 seph Lane of Indiana, Governor of Oregon, and tlie com- 
 mission was that day signed by the President and given 
 to Meek to be delivered to Lane in the shortest possible 
 time. His last words to the Marshal on parting were— 
 " God bless you, Meek. Tell Lane to have a territorial 
 government organized during my administration." 
 
 Of the ten thousand dollars appropriated by Congress 
 "to be expended under the direction of the President, in 
 payment for services and expenses of such persons as had 
 been engaged by the jrovisional government of Oregon 
 in conveying communications to and from the United 
 States; and for purchase of presents for such Indian 
 tribes as the peace and quiet of the country required"— 
 Thornton received two thousand six hundred dollars, 
 Meek seven thousand four hundred, and the Indian tribes 
 none. Whether the President believed that the peace 
 and quiet of the country did not require presents to be 
 made to the Indians, or whether family credit required 
 that Meek should get the lion's share, is not known. How- 
 ever that may be, our hero felt himself to be quite rich, 
 and proceeded to get rid of his superfluity, as will hereafter 
 be seen, with his customary prodigality and enjoyment of 
 the present without regard to the future. 
 
 Before midnight on the day of his arrival at the springs, 
 Meek was on his way to Indiana to see General Lane. Ar- 
 riving at the Newburg landing one morning at day-break, 
 he took horse immediately for the General's residence at 
 Newburg, and presented him with hia commission soon 
 
THE GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL START FOR OREGON. 471 
 
 after breakflist. Lane sat writing, Avhcn Meek, introducing 
 himself, laid his papers before him. ' - 
 
 "Do jou accept?" asked Meek. '■'■ • i • 
 
 "Yes," answered Lane. '" • 
 
 "How soon can you be ready to start?" ' ' 
 
 "111 fifteen minutes!" answered Lane, with military 
 promptness. ; - •• - ; -t. 
 
 Three days, however, were actually required to make the 
 necessary p'-eparations for leaving his farm and proceed- 
 ing to the most remote corner of the United States terri- 
 tory. 
 
 At St. Louis they were detained one day, waiting for a 
 boat to Leavenworth, where they expected to meet their 
 escort. This one day was too precious to be lost in wait- 
 ing by so business-like a person as our hero, who, when 
 nothing more important was to be done generally was 
 found trying to get rid of his money. So, on this occa- 
 sion, after having disburdened himself of a small amount 
 in treating the new Governor and all his acquaintances, he 
 entered into negotiations with a peddler who was impor- 
 tuning the passengers to buy everything, from a jack- 
 knife to a silk dress. >^^-^(' ■■■..-AM'^'-rj:,^'^. iAJii-ra w , ^mm 
 
 Finding that Nat. Lane, the General's son, wanted a 
 knife, but was disposed to beat down the price, Meek 
 made an offer for the lot of a dozen or two, and thereby 
 prevented Lane getting one at any price. Not satisfied 
 with this investment, he next made a purchase of three 
 whole pieces of silk, at one dollar and fifty cents per yard. 
 At this stage of the transaction General Lane interfered 
 ?uffieiently to inquire " what he expected to do with that 
 
 stuff :^" 
 
 " Can't tell," answered Meek ; " but I reckon it is worth 
 the money." 
 '• Better save your money," said the more prudent Lane. 
 
 ill 
 
 m V 
 
 * H-lIf 1 
 
 ' t Jim 
 
 i j 'iiS 
 
472 
 
 THE ESCORT OF KIFLEMEN THE ROUTE. 
 
 U: \ 
 
 But the incorrigible spendthrift only laughed, and threat- 
 ened to buy out the Jew's entire stock, if Lane persisted 
 in preaching economy. 
 
 At St. Louis, besides his son Nat., Lane was met by 
 Lieut. Hawkins, who was appointed to the command of 
 the escort of twenty -five riflemen, and Dr. Hayden, sur- 
 geon of the company. This party proceeded to Leaven- 
 worth, the point of starting, where the wagons and men 
 of Hawkins' command awaited them. At this place, Meek 
 was met by a brother and two sisters who had come to 
 look on him for the first time in many years. The two 
 days' delay which was necessary to get the train ready for 
 a start, afforded an opnor amity for this family reunion, the 
 last that might ever occur between its widely separated 
 branches, new shoots from which extend at this day from 
 Virginia to Alabama, and from Tennessee to California 
 and Oregon. . . ,. .. ..r,.,.,. 
 
 By the 10th of September the new government was on 
 its way to Oregon in the persons of Lane and Meek. The 
 whole company of officers, men, and teamsters, numbered 
 about fifty -five ; the wagons ten ; and riding-horses, an 
 extra supply for each rider. 
 
 The route taken, with the object to avoid the snows of 
 a northern winter, was from Leavenworth to Santa Fe, 
 and thence down the Rio Grande to near El Paso ; thence 
 northwesterly by Tucson, in Arizona; thence to the 
 Pimas village on the Gila River ; following the Gila to its 
 junction with the Colorado, thence northwesterly again to 
 the Bay of San Pedro in California. From this place the 
 company were to proceed by ship to San Francisco ; and 
 thence again by ship to the Columbia River. 
 
 On the Santa Fe trail they met the army returning 
 from Mexico, under Price, and learned from them that 
 they could not proceed with wagons beyond Santa Fe. 
 
-yf-- 
 
 PRICE S ARMY AX ADVENTURE. 
 
 473 
 
 The lateness of the season, although it was not attended 
 ^vitli snow, as on the northern route it would have been, 
 subjected the travelers 'nevertheless to the strong, cold 
 ^viiuls which blow over the vast extent of open country 
 between the Missouri River and the high mountain range 
 which forms the water-shed of the continent. It also 
 iniule it more difficult to subsist the animals, especially 
 lifter meeting Price's army, which had already SAvept the 
 country bare. 
 
 On coming near Santa Fe, Meek was riding ahead of 
 his party, when he had a most unexpected encounter. 
 Seeing a covered traveling carriage drawn up under the 
 shade of some trees growing beside a small stream, not 
 far off from the trail, he resolved, with his usual love of 
 adventure, to discover for himself the character of the 
 proprietor. But as he drew nearer, he discovered no 
 one, although a camp-table stood under the trees, spread 
 with refreshments, not only of a solid, but a fluid nature. 
 The sight of a bottle of cognac induced him to dismount, 
 and he was helping himself to a liberal glass, when a 
 head was protruded from a covering of blankets inside 
 the carriage, and a heavy bass voice was heard in a polite 
 protest: '" - %>= .v., ....-y .^^ivr .jw^.^ .^c 
 
 " Seems to me, stranger, you are making free with my 
 property!" : ; ,-.;,,-..„- 
 
 " Here's to you, sir," rejoined the purloiner ; " it isn't 
 often I find as good brandy as that," — holding out the 
 glass admiringly, — " but when I do, I make it a point of 
 honor not to pass it." 
 
 "May I inquire your name, sir?" asked the owner of 
 tlie brandy, forced to smile at the good-humored audacity 
 of his guest. 
 
 " I couldn't refuse to give my name after that," — re- 
 placing the £;lass on the table, — "and I now introduce 
 
 222 
 
 tr 
 
 It 
 
474 
 
 A PLEASANT AND UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTER. 
 
 myself as Joseph L. Meek Esq., Marshal of Oregon, on 
 my way from Washington to o':sist General Lane in estab- 
 lishing a territorial Government west of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains. " 
 
 "Meek! — what, not the Joe Meek I have heard iny 
 brothers tell so much about ?" 
 
 " Joe Meek is my name ; but whar did your brothers 
 know me ?" inquired our hero, mystified in his turn. 
 
 " I think you must have known Captain William Sub- 
 lette and his brother Milton, ten or twelve years ago, in 
 the Eocky Mountains," said the genileman, getting out of 
 the carriage, and approaching Meek with extended hand. 
 
 A delighted recognition now took place. From Solo- 
 mon Sublette, the owner of the cirriage and the cognac, 
 Meek learned many particulars of the life and death of 
 his former leaders in the mountains. Neither of them 
 were then living ; but this younger brother, Solomon, 
 had inherited Captain Sublette's wife and wealth at the 
 same time. .After these explanations, Mr. Sublette raised 
 the curtains of the carriage again, and assisted to descend 
 from it a lady, whom he introduced as his wife, and who 
 exhibited much gratification in becoming acquainted with 
 the hero of many a tale recited to her by her former hus- 
 band. Captain Sublette. 
 
 In the midst of this pleasant exchange of reminiscences, 
 the remainder of Meek's party rode up, were introduced, 
 and invited to regale themselves on the fine liquors with 
 which Mr. Sublette's carriage proved to be well furnished. 
 This little adventure gave our hero much pleasure, as 
 furnishing a link between the past and present, and bring- 
 ing freshly to mind many incidents already beginning to 
 fade in his memory. v^ . ^,-^ .,:, 
 
 At Santa Fe, the train stopped to be overhauled and 
 reconstructed. The wagons having to be abandoned, 
 
COUNTER. 
 
 DESERTION OF SOLDIERS — DROUTH. 
 
 475 
 
 their contents had to be packed on mules, after the man- 
 ner of mountain or of Mexican travel and transportation. 
 This change accomplished, with as little delay as possible, 
 the train proceeded without any other than the usual 
 difficulties, as far as Tucson, when two of the twenty-five 
 riflemen deserted, having become suddenly enamored of 
 liberty, in the dry and dusty region of southern Arizona. 
 Lieutenant Hawkins, immediately on discovering the 
 desertion, dispatched two men, well armed, to compel 
 their return. One of the men detailed for this duty be- 
 longed to the riflemen, but the other was an American, 
 who, with a company of Mexican packers, had joiaed the 
 train at Santa Fe, and was acting in the capacity of pilot. 
 Ill order to fit out this volunteer for the service, always 
 dangerous, of retaking deserting soldiers. Meek had lent 
 him his Colt's revolvers. It was a vain precaution, how- 
 ever, both the men being killed in attempting to capture 
 the deserters ; and Meek's pistols were never more heard 
 of, having fallen into the murderous hands of the run- 
 
 aways. 
 
 'ia-' ■'l!^^^'r^*• 
 
 •im 
 
 Drouth now began to be the serious evil with which 
 the travelers had to contend. From the Pimas villages 
 ■westward, it continually grew worse, the animals being 
 greatly reduced from the want both of food and water. 
 At the crossing of the Colorado, the animals had to be 
 crossed over by swimming, the officers and men by rafts 
 made of bulrushes. Lane and Meek being the first to be 
 ferried over, were landed unexpectedly in the midst of a 
 Yuma village. The Indians, however, gave them no 
 trouble, and, except the little artilice of drowning some 
 of the mules at the crossing, in order to get their flesh to 
 eat, committed neither murders nor thefts, nor any out- 
 rage whatever. 
 
 It was quite as well for the unlucky mules to be 
 
 \i 
 
 
476 
 
 DEMORALIZATION OF THE ESCORT. 
 
 i-1 
 
 Xi: 
 
 ', ' ^ 
 
 ' *t 
 
 ' i 1 
 
 ! I 
 
 : 1 . 1; 
 
 i 1 i 
 
 1 
 
 ; 1 
 
 i ! 
 t 
 
 drowned and eaten as it was for their fellows to travel on 
 over the arid desert before them until they starved aiul 
 perished, which they nearly all did. From the Colorado 
 on, the company of Lieut. Hawkins became thoroughly 
 demoralized. Not only would the animals persist in 
 dying, several in a day, but the soldiers also persisted in 
 deserting, until, by the time he reached the coast, his for- 
 lorn hope was reduced to three men. But it was not the 
 drouth in their case which caused the desertions : it was 
 rumors which they heard everywhere along the route, of 
 mines of gold and silver, where they flattered themselves 
 they could draw better pay than from Uncle Sam's coffers. 
 
 The same difficulty from desertion harassed Lieutenant- 
 Colonel Loring in the following summer, when he at- 
 tempted to establish a line of posts along the route to 
 Oregon, by the way of Forts Kearney, Laramie, and 
 through the South Pass to Fort Hall. His mounted rifle 
 regiment dwindled down to almost nothing. At one 
 time, over one hundred men deserted in a body : and al- 
 though he pursued and captured seventy of them, he 
 could not keep them from deserting again at the first 
 favorable moment. The bones of many of those gold- 
 seeking soldiers were left on the plains, where wolves had 
 stripped the flesh from them ; and many more finally had 
 rude burial at the hands of fellow gold-seekers : but few 
 indeed ever won or enjoyed that for which they risked 
 everything. 
 
 On arriving at Cook's wells, some distance beyond the 
 Colorado, our travelers found that the water at this place 
 was tainted by the body of a mule which had lost its Hfe 
 some days before in endeavoring to get at the water. 
 This was a painful discovery for the thirsty party to make, 
 However, there being no water for some distance ahead, 
 General Lane boiled some of it, and made coffee of it, 
 
IT. 
 
 ws to travel on 
 cy starved and 
 a the Colorado 
 me thoroughly 
 iials persist in 
 so persisted in 
 e coast, his for- 
 i it was not the 
 ortions : it was 
 ? the route, of 
 red themselves 
 e Sam's coffers. 
 sed Lieutenant- 
 , when he at- 
 g the route to 
 
 Laramie, and 
 i mounted rifle 
 ing. At one 
 body : and al- 
 of them, lie 
 in at the first 
 of those gold- 
 
 YQ wolves had 
 Dre finally had 
 
 vers : but few 
 zh they risked 
 
 3e beyond the 
 ;r at this place 
 id lost its fife 
 at the water. 
 )arty to make, 
 istance ahead, 
 e coffee of it, 
 
Till 
 
 I'AllTY ON FOOT — EXTUEME SUFFEUIXa. 477 
 
 rcniiirkiiig that "maggots were more easily swallowed 
 coukcd than raw!" 
 
 And liero the writer, and no doubt, the reader too, is 
 coiiipi'Ued to make a reflection. Was the office of Gover- 
 nor of a Territory at fifteen liuiidred dollars a year, and 
 Indian agent at fifteen hundred more, worth a journey of 
 over three thousand miles, chiefly by land, even allowing 
 that there had been no maggots in the water? Quien 
 mhe? 
 
 Not far from this locality our party came upon one hun- 
 dred wagons abandoned by Major Graham, who had not 
 been able to cross the desert with them. Proceeding on- 
 ward, the riders eventually found themselves on foot, there 
 being only a few animals left alive to transport the bag- 
 gage that could not be abandoned. So great was their 
 extremity, that to quench their thirst the stomach of a 
 mule was opened to get at the moisture it contained. In 
 the horror and pain of the thirst-fever. Meek renewed 
 again the sufferings he had undergone years before in the 
 deserts inhabited by Diggers, and on the parched plains 
 of the Snake River. ■ ■ 
 
 About the middle of January the Oregon Government, 
 which had started out so gaily fi'om Fort Leavenworth, 
 arrived weary, dusty, foot-sore, famished, and suffering, at 
 William's Ranch on the Santa Anna River, which empties 
 into the Bay of San Pedro. Here they were very kindly 
 received, and their wants ministered to. 
 
 At this place Meek developed, in addition to his various 
 accomplishments, a talent for speculation. While over- 
 hauling his baggage, the knives and the silk which had 
 been purchased of the peddler in St. Louis, were brought 
 to light. No sooner did the senoritas catch a glimpse of 
 the shining fabrics than they went into raptures over them, 
 after the fashion of their sex. Seeing the state of mind 
 
478 
 
 SPECULATION IN SILKS AND JACKKNIVES. 
 
 to which these raptures, if unheeded, were likely to re- 
 duce the ladies of his house, Mr. Williams ai)proaclic'(l 
 Meek delicately on tlie subject of purchase. But Meek 
 in the first flush of speculative shrewdness dechired that 
 as he had bought the goods for his own wife, he could not 
 find it in his heart to sell them. 
 
 However, as the senoritas were likely to prove inconsola- 
 ble, Mr. Williams again mentioned the desire of his family 
 to be clad in silk, and the great difTiculty, nay, impossi- 
 bility, of obtaining the much coveted fabric in that part 
 of the world, and accompanied his remarks with an otFer 
 of ten dollars a yard for the lot. At this magnificent ofTer 
 our hero affected to be overcome by regard for the feel- 
 ings of the senoritas, and consented to sell his dollar and 
 a-half silks for ten dollars per yard. .: 
 
 In the same manner, finding that knives were a desira- 
 ble article in that country, very much wanted by miners 
 and others, he sold out his dozen or two, for an ounce 
 each of gold-dust, netting altogether the convenient little 
 profit cf about five hundred dollars. When Gen. Lane 
 was ihfoDvtrd of the transaction, and reminded of his ob- 
 jectior.s to the original purchase, he laughed heartily. 
 
 "Well Meek," said he, "you were drunk when you 
 
 bought them, and by I think you must have been 
 
 drunk when you sold them; but drunk or sober, I will 
 own you can beat me at a bargain." 
 
 Such bargains, however, became common enough about 
 this time in California, for this was the year memorable in 
 California history, of the breaking out of the gold-fever, 
 and the great rush to the mines which made even the 
 commonest things worth their weight in gold-dust. 
 
 Proceeding to Los Angelos, our party, once more comfort- 
 ably mounted, found traveling comparatively easy. At this 
 place they found quartered the command of Maj. Graham, 
 
OUKOONIANS AT SAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 479 
 
 whose abanfloncd wap^ons had been pas.^ed at the Tloniella 
 on the Colorado River. The town, too, was crowded 
 with miners, men of every class, but chiefly American 
 adventurers, drawn together from every quarter of Cali- 
 fornia and Mexico by the rumor of the gold discovery at 
 Sutter's Fort. 
 
 On arriving at San Pedro, a vessel — the Southampton, 
 was found ready to sail. She had on board a crowd of 
 fugitives from Mexico, bound to San Francisco, wliere they 
 hoped to find repose from the troubles which harassed 
 that revolutionary Republic. 
 
 At San Francisco, Meek was surprised to meet about 
 two hundred Oregonians, who on the first news of the 
 gold discovery the previous autumn, had fled, as it is said 
 men shall flee on the day of judgment — leaving the wheat 
 ungathered in the fields, the grain unground in the mills, 
 the cattle unherded on the plains, their tools and farming 
 implements rusting on the ground — everything abandoned 
 as if it would never more be needed, to go and seek the 
 sliining dust, which is vainly denominated "filthy lucre." 
 The two hundred were on their way home, having all 
 either m.ade something, or lost their health by exposure 
 so that they were obliged to return. But they left many 
 more in the mines. 
 
 Such were the tales told in San Francisco of the won- 
 derful fortunes of some of the miners that young Lane be- 
 came infected with the universal fever and declared his 
 intention to try mining with the rest. Meek too, deter- 
 I mined to risk something in gold-seeking, and as some of 
 the teamsters who had left Fort Leavenworth with the 
 company, and had come as far as San Francisco, were very 
 desirous of going to the mines. Meek fitted out two or 
 three with pack-horses, tools, and provisions, to accompany 
 [young Lane. For the money expended in the outfit he 
 81 
 
480 
 
 THE GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL QUARREL, 
 
 was to receive half of their first year's profits. The re- 
 sult of this venture was three pickle-jars of gold-dust, 
 which were sent to him by the hands of Nat. Lane, the 
 following year ; and which just about reimbursed him for 
 the outlay. 
 
 At San Francisco, Gen. Lane found the U. S. Sloop of 
 War, the St. Mary's; and Meek insisted that the Oregon 
 government, which was represented in their persons, had 
 a right to require her services in transporting itself to its 
 pioper seat, But Lane, whoso notions of economy ex- 
 tended, singularly enough, to the affairs of the general 
 government, would not consent to the needless expendi- 
 ture. Meek was rebellious, and quoted Thornton, by 
 whom he was determined nui to be outdone in respect of 
 expense for transportation. Lane insisted that his dignity 
 did not require a government vessel to convey him to 
 Oregon. In short the new government wns very muili 
 divided against itself, and only escaped a fall by Meek's 
 finding some tyne, or some others, else, on whom to ^lay 
 his pranks. 
 
 The first one was a Jew peddler who had gentlemen's 
 clothes to sell. To him the Marshal represented himself 
 as a United States Custom officer, and after frightening 
 him with a threat of confiscating his entire stock, finally 
 compromised with the terrified Israelite by accepting a 
 suit of clothes for himself After enjoying the mortifica- 
 tion of spirit which the loss inflicted on the Jew, for twen- 
 ty-four hours, he finally paid him for the clothes, at the 
 same time administering a lecture upon the sin and dan- 
 ger of smuggling. 
 
 The party which had left Leavenworth for Oregon! 
 nearly six months before, numbering fifty -five, now num 
 bered only seven. Of the original number ^wo had been 
 killed, and all the rest had de'=<erted to go to the mines, 
 
i*:',T: 
 
 A SALUTE — ARRIVAL AT OREGON CITY. 
 
 481 
 
 Tliere remained only Gen. Lane, Meek, Lieut. Hawkins 
 ;ind Ilaydcn, surgeon, besides three soldiers. With this 
 small company Gen. Lane went on board the Jeanette, a 
 small vessel, crowded with miners, and destined for the 
 Columbia River. As the Jeanette dropped down the Bay, 
 a salute was fired from the St. Mary's in honor of Gen. 
 Lane, and appropriated to himseK by Marshal Meek, who 
 seems to have delighted in appropriating to himself all 
 the honors in whatever circumstances he might be placed ; 
 the more especially too, if such assumption annoyed the 
 General. 
 
 After a tedious voyage of eighteen days the Jeanette 
 arrived in the Columbia, River. From Astoria the party 
 took small boats for Oregon City, a voyage ot one hun- 
 dred and twenty miles ; so that it was already the 2d of 
 March when they arrived at that place, and only one day 
 was left for the organization of the Territorial Govern- 
 ment before the expiratiou of Polk's term of office. Gen. 
 Lane's economy had nearly defeated Polk's greiit desire.>ii 
 
 ','■ ■ ■ >-.'; '.'li'. '.■■"...•; ■•'.'■'■'* ■iO-^K-''-'~''\ 
 
 ■ .: • • ■■ i' •'.,-''■■,';>•' ■•,■• -. ■ '•-•3i/' .■V,<>fV,V.".4' '■' .-•¥>' -f, 
 
 I'^ii 
 
 
 ^*^f*'A'..\ ;.a,, h-^t^ 
 
 
 
 ;^-ri' ^i 
 
 
482 
 
 THE DROPPED THREADS OF OUR STORY. 
 
 ■ ■ '''fr-*.r»lft*-i; 
 
 ;- ,>:. ■'-■r';u 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 1849. If this were a novel which we T<^ere writing, we 
 should fix Tipou this point in our story -^ > 'V; — "And so 
 they were married, and lived together h-ippily ever af- 
 ter ;" placing the Finis directly after that sentence. For 
 have we not brought Oregon through all the romantic ad- 
 ventures and misadventures ot her extraordinary youth, 
 and ushered her upon the stage of action a promising 
 young Territory ? As for our hero, he too has arrived at 
 the climax of his individual glory and success, a point at 
 which it might be wise to leave him. 
 
 But a regard for the eternal fitness of things compels 
 us to gather up again the dropped threads of somo por- 
 tions of our story, and follow them to their pv^ ": v^h.i- 
 ing up. We promise, however, to touch as lig c' ; ' ) .'-- 
 sible upon the Territorial history of Oregon ; L ' m 
 political record here becomes, what the political recom 
 of too many other Territories has been, a history of dema 
 gogueisra. With this preface we proceed to finish our nar. 
 rative. '" 
 
 On the 2d of March Gen. Lane 'I'ved at Oregon City, 
 and was introduced to Gov. AberijLu..y, by M - 'hal Meek, 
 On the 3d, there appeared the following — 
 
 PROCLAMATION. 
 
 Tn pinsuaico of an act of C'^npvfss, irp^rved the 14th of August, in the 
 year of our Lord 1848, establislnr.g a Terv'h. '"i Government in the Territory 
 of Oregon : 
 
 I, Joseph Lane, was, on the 18th day of August, in the year 1848, appointed 
 
.V ■■" 
 
 STORY. 
 
 GOV. LANES PROCLAMATION. 
 
 483 
 
 rr-f 
 
 re writing, we 
 '^—" And so 
 h.ippily ever af- 
 t sentence. For 
 the romantic ad- 
 aordinaxy youth, 
 ion a promising 
 )0 has arrived at 
 iccess, a point at 
 
 f things compels 
 ids of sor.16 yor- 
 eir pr'' ' ,^v Tfii. i- 
 as lig Gij* ■ ■ ')'r-- 
 ])regon ; L ' un 
 ! political recui'u 
 , history of dema 
 to finish our nar. 
 
 I at Oregon City, 
 )y M-"hal Meek, 
 
 ^■HM 
 
 I4tli of August, in the 
 iment in the Territory 
 
 le year 1848, appointed 
 
 Governor in anc' for the Territory of Oregon. I have therefore thought it 
 proper to issue chis, my proclamation, making known that I have this day en- 
 tered upon the discharge of the duties of my office, and by virtue thereof do 
 (kcliire the laws of the United States extended over, and declared to be in 
 force in si id Territory, so far as the same, or any portion thereof, may be ap- 
 plicable. 
 
 Given under my hand at Oregon City, in the Territory of Oregon, this 3d 
 day of March, Anno Domini 1849. Joskph Lank. 
 
 Thus Oregon had one day, under Polk, who, take it all 
 in all, had been a faithful guardian of her interests. 
 
 Shortly after the appearance of the proclamation of 
 Gov. Lane, Meek was sworn into office, and gave the re- 
 quired securities. All the other Territorial officers pres- 
 ent in the Territory, or as fast as they arrived, took the 
 oath of office ; courts were established, and the new gov- 
 ernment moved on. Of the Presiden+'al appointees who 
 accepted, were William T. Bryant of Indiana, Chief Jus- 
 tice 0. C. Pratt of Illinois, and Peter H. Burnett of Ore- 
 gon, Associate Justices of the District Court : John Adair 
 of Kentucly, Collector for the District of Oregon : and 
 Kintzinge Pritchett of Pennsylvania, Secretary of State. 
 
 The condition in which Gov. Lane found the new Ter- 
 ritory was not so sad as might reasonably be conjectured 
 from the fears of its inhabitants fifteen months previous. 
 Intimidated by the pretence of tho volunteers in the upper 
 country, the Indians haa remain c;d quiet, and the immigra- 
 tion of 1848 passed through their country without being 
 disturbed in any manner. So little apprehension was felt 
 concerning an Indian war at this time that men did not 
 hesitate to leave their homes and families to go to the gold 
 fields of California. 
 
 In the month of August, 1848, the Honolulu^ a vessel 
 of one hundred and fifty tons, owned in Boston, carrying 
 a consignment of goods to a mercantile house in Portland, 
 arrived at her anchorage in the Wallamet, via San Fran- 
 
 %m. 
 
 'i;- 
 
 "I ,. 
 
484 
 
 THE GOLD EXCITEMENT. 
 
 \.. I 4; 
 
 CISCO, California. Captain Newell, almost before he had 
 discharged freight, commenced buying up a cargo of flour 
 and other provisions. But what excited the wonder of 
 the Oregonians was the fact that he also bought up all 
 manner of tools such as could be used in digging or cut- 
 ting, from a spaio and pickaxe, to a pocket-knife. This 
 singular proceeding naturally aroused the suspicions of a 
 people accustomed to have something to suspect. A de- 
 mand was made for the HonolidiCs papers, and these not 
 being forthcoming, it was proposed by some of the pru- 
 dent ones to tie her up. When this movement was at- 
 tempted, the secret came out. Captain Newell, holding 
 up a bag of gold-dust before the astonished eyes of his 
 persecutors, cried out — 
 
 " Do you see that gold ? you, I will depopulate 
 
 your country ! I know where there is plenty of this stuff, 
 and I am taking these tools where it is to be found." 
 
 This was in August, the month of harvest. So great 
 was the excitement which seized the people, that all classes 
 of men were governed by it. Few persons stopped to 
 consider that this was the time for producers to reap golden 
 harvests of precious ore, for the other yellow harvest of 
 grain which was already ripe and waiting to be gathered. 
 Men left their grain standing, and took their teams from 
 the reapers to pack their provisions and tools to the mines, 
 
 Some men would have gladly paid double to get back 
 the spades, shovels, or picks, which the shrewd Yankee 
 Captain had purchased from them a week previous. All 
 implements of this nature soon commanded fabuk as prices, 
 and he was a lucky man who had a supply. 
 
 The story of the gold-fever which began in the fall and 
 winter of '48, and raged with such violence through '49, 
 is too familiar to everybody to need repeating here. Only 
 as it affected the fortunes of Oregon need it be mentioned. 
 
 / 
 
 I . • ! 
 
' '•^r'T'TTyTyp^'^ 
 
 SUDDEN PROSPERITY OF OREGON. 
 
 485 
 
 Its immediate effect was to give an impetus to business in 
 the Territory which nothing else ever could have done ; 
 to furnish a market for all sorts of produce, and employ- 
 ment for every kind of industry, to bring money into cir- 
 culation in place of wheat and beaver-skins, and for a time 
 to make the country extremely prosperous. , ; 
 
 One of the last acts of the Provisional Government had 
 been to authorize the weighing, assaying, and coining of, 
 gold — an act which was rendered necessary by the great 
 amount of "dust" in circulation, and the influx of the 
 debased South American coins. An association of gen- 
 tlemen taking the matter in hand, bore all the expense of 
 the dies, machinery, and labor, coining only about ten 
 thousand dollars in the summer of '49. They succeeded 
 in raising the price of " dust " from eleven to sixteen dol- 
 lars per ounce, and stopping XCa?^^ y^CH4> 
 the influx of South Ameri- 
 can coins. The gentlemen ^^^^^^) f? native; 
 who conferred a great bene- 
 fit on Oregon, were Kil- 
 borne, Magruder, Rector, beaver-money. 
 
 Campbell, and Smith. This money went by the name of 
 "Beaver- money," owing to the design on the dies, which 
 referred to the previous beaver currency. 
 
 But the ultimate effect of the California gold discove- 
 ries was to put a check upon the prosperity of Oregon. 
 The emigration from the states, instead of going to Oregon 
 as formerly, now turned off to California. Men soon dis- 
 covered the fertile quality of California soil, and while the 
 majority dug for gold a sufficient number went to farming 
 to make, together with the imports from the east, almost 
 a supply for the yearly hordes of gold seekers. The fame 
 of the • California climate, the fascinations of the ups and 
 
 .'%: 
 
 
486 
 
 GRADUAL RELAPSE AND THE CAUSE. 
 
 
 .1 
 
 ! I 
 
 downs of fortune's wheel in that country, and many other 
 causes, united to make California, and not Oregon, the 
 object of interest on the Pacific coast ; and the rapidity 
 with which California became self-supporting removed from 
 Oregon her importance as a source of supplies. There- 
 fore, after a few years of rather extraordinary usefulness 
 and consequent good fortune, the Territory relapsed into 
 a purely domestic and very quiet young State. This 
 change in its federal status was not altogether acceptable 
 to Oregonians. They had so long been accustomed to 
 regard themselves as the pets of a great and generous, 
 but rather neglectful Republic, from whose hands all man- 
 ner of favors were to be of right demanded, because they 
 had sustained for so long a time the character of good 
 children, without any immediate reward — that now when 
 a rival darling sprang into vigorous life and excessive fa- 
 vor, almost at once, their jealousy rankled painfully. So 
 naughty and disagreeable a passion as jealousy is its own 
 punishment, as the Oregonian of to-day would do well to 
 remember, while he does what he can to show to the world 
 that his State, by its splendid resources, fully justifies all the 
 outlay of patriotism and ardor which distinguished its 
 early history. 
 
 But to return to our mutton. Although Gov. Lane 
 did not find an Indian war on his hands immediately on 
 assuming the duties of his office, there was yet plenty to 
 do in getting the government organized, appointing offi- 
 cers to take the census, ordering elections, and getting the 
 run of Oregon politics, to occupy his attention for the 
 first three months of his administration. 
 
 The change in the government had not by any means 
 changed the objects and aims of the different parties in 
 Oregon. Now, as before, there was a Mission party, 
 strong in money and influence ; now, as before, the term 
 
 .^uxj ■.iiL U ^yi '^h^ed e/iw .: 
 
 .Had 
 
•■^■T" 
 
 THE THREE PARTIES. 
 
 487 
 
 "Hudson's Bay man" was used by the Mission party to 
 bring odium upon any aspirant to office, or even business 
 success, who, not being intimidated by their interdict, 
 '•piitured to be employed professionally by Dr. McLaugh- 
 lin, or in any way to show regard for him. As there were 
 ahvays a certain number independent enough to act from 
 free will or conviction, there was in consequence still a 
 Hudson's Bay party. Between these two, as before, there 
 stood a third party, who added itself to or subtracted it- 
 self from the other two, as its purposes and interests 
 required. As there were haters of Dr. McLaughlin in 
 two of the parties it did not require a great amount of 
 shrewdness to inform a man that on this point might turn 
 liis political fortunes. 
 
 This discovery was made very early after his arrival in 
 the Territory by Gov. Lane, as well as by Judge Bryant, 
 and others, and used at times by them when there was an 
 object to be gained by it, although neither of these dig- 
 nitaries declared themselves openly as good haters of the 
 Doctor. 
 
 Dr. McLaughlin, on the settlement of the boundary 
 question, seeing that the London Company found much 
 fault with him for having "encouraged the settlement of 
 Oregon by the Americans," went to England to see the 
 Directors and have the matter understood between himself 
 and them. Finding on hearing his explanation, that while 
 doing nothing to encourage* settlement, he could not per- 
 mit the immigrants of the first few years to suffer after 
 tlieir arrival, and that out of charity only he had done 
 what was done for their relief, the Company still blamed 
 him, the Doctor then said to the Directors, " Gentlemen, 
 I will serve you no longer." Sixty thousand dollars, ex- 
 pended in helping American settlers was charged to his 
 private account. This amount was afterwards remitted, 
 but the debt was heavily felt at the time. 
 
 fc- »'- 1 
 
488 
 
 DR. MCLAUGHLIN — NKW COMPLICATIONS. 
 
 i ■! 
 
 mi 
 
 V \ 
 
 On his return to Oregon, and en the establishment of a 
 Territorial government, the Doctor determined to take out 
 naturalization papers, and become an American citizen. 
 But no sooner had the government been organized tlian 
 new complications arose in the Doctor's case. Judge 
 Bryant had been but a few days in the Territory before he 
 purchased from the Mission Milling Company the Island in 
 the river opposite Oregon City, which was occupied by 
 their mills, but which formed a part of the original claim 
 of Dr. McLaughlin. Thus the Chief Justice assumed at 
 once the. same attitude towards him which the Mission and 
 the Milling Company had done ; and as the island was 
 contained in Judge Bryant's district, and only two Judges 
 were at that time in the Territory, the Doctor felt con- 
 strained to seek advice from such Americans as were his 
 friends. Although some believed that his best chance of 
 holding his original claim, was to depend upon his posses- 
 sory rights under the treaty of 1846, others counseled 
 him to take out his naturalization papers and secure him- 
 self in the rights of an American citizen. This he did at 
 last, on the 30th of May, 1849. 
 
 We have spoken in a previous chapter of Mr. Thurston, 
 in connection with the Donation Act. It is related of this 
 gentleman that when he left Iowa for Oregon, he confided 
 to his personal friends his resolve to be "in Congress or in 
 — " two years after reaching that Territory. Like other 
 ambitious new-comers, he soon discovered what side to 
 take with certain influential persons, concerning the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company.^ which was but another name for Dr. 
 McLaughlin. 
 
 Mr. Thurston did not hesitate to ask the Doctor to vote 
 for him, for delegate to Congress, which, however, the 
 Doctor did not do, as one of his friends was up for the 
 same ofl&ce. But when he was finally elected to Congress, 
 
 ,.=n^I) a/f! :ti 
 
 
 ryii,m r-'i-y-' 
 
THE NEW DELEGATE TO CONGRESS. 
 
 489 
 
 fortunately within the two years to which he haJ limited 
 himseir— Mr. Thurston took ground which betrayed by 
 what influences he had been placed in the coveted position. 
 Mr. Thornton having returned to Oregon sometime in 
 May had made the acquaintance of the candidate for Con- 
 irress, and feeling some anxiety with regard to the Land 
 Bill, which he had expended considerable thought and 
 labor upon, conversed freely with Mr. Thurston upon the 
 subject, and finally, ' w his election, presented him with a 
 copy of his bill ; the same, with certain alterations, that 
 could not strictly be called amendments, which afterwards 
 became the Donation Law. 
 
 But the notable section of Mr. Thurston's bill, which 
 finally became a law, was that one which was intended to 
 secure him future political favors, by earning him the grat- 
 itude of the anti-Hudson's Bay party, and all others whose 
 private interests he subserved. This was the section 
 which exempted from the benefits of the act the Oregon 
 City claim, in the following words. " That there be, and 
 hereby is granted to the Territory of Oregon, two town- 
 ships, one north and one south of the Columbia River, to 
 aid in establishing a University, to be selected by the 
 Assembly, and approved by the Surveyor General. Also 
 the Oregon City claim, except those lo.'s sold previous to 
 March Uh, 1849." 
 
 In order to secure the passage of this part of the land 
 bill, Mr. Thurston addressed a letter to the House of Rep- 
 resentatives, of which he was a member, containing the 
 following assertions : — that it was the Methodist Mission 
 which first took the Oregon City claim ; that they were 
 driven from it by a fear of having the savages of Oregon 
 let loose upon them ; that a number of citizens of Oregon 
 had been successively driven from it, by the power of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company; that Dr. McLaughlin had al- 
 
 rl 
 
 
 ^^ If 
 
400 
 
 STORY OF THE DONATION ACT. 
 
 ' ■ ; 1 ■ 
 
 u:. 
 
 , I 
 
 j 
 
 1 f. 
 
 1 ' 
 
 ' 
 
 !i 1 i 
 
 L; 1 1 
 
 111 
 
 1 ■ 
 
 ready sold lots to the amount of $200,000, enough for a 
 foreigner to make out of American territory ; and that 
 the Doctor had not taken out naturalization papers, but 
 was an Englislunan at heart, and still identified with the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, Mr. Thurston's letter contained 
 many more assertions equally false — but those just given 
 relate more particularly to the eleventh section of the Do- 
 nation Act. 
 
 Mr. Thurston's reason for asking to have all sales of lots 
 made before the fourth of March, 1849, confirmed, he de- 
 clared to be to prevent litigation. Dr. McLaughlin, he 
 said, ought to be made to pay for those lots, but '• not 
 wishing to create any litigation, the committee concluded 
 to quiet the whole matter by confirming those lots." 
 
 He further stated that the Doctor had upon the Oregon 
 City claim " a flouring mill, granaries, two double baw- 
 mills, a large number of houses, stores, and other buildings, 
 to which he may be entitled by virtue of his possessory 
 rights under the treaty of 1846. For only a part of these 
 improvements, which he may thus hold, he has been urged 
 during the past year to take $250,000." 
 
 Mr. Thurston sees no harm in taking this property, so 
 valuable in his estimation, which comprises the earnings 
 of a whole life-time spent in devotion to business in an 
 Indian country, away from all that men commonly esteem 
 desirable, from the proper owner. On the contrary he 
 makes an eloquent appeal to the House to save this valu- 
 able estate to the people of Oregon wherewith to educate 
 the rising generations. 
 
 Still further, so great is his fear that some portion of his 
 property may be left to the Doctor, he asks that the Island 
 portion of the claim, which he confesses is only a pile of 
 rocks, of no value except for the improvements on it, may 
 be " confirmed to George Abernethy, his heirs or assigns;' 
 
BTOUY OF THE DONATION ACT. 
 
 491 
 
 iissigning as a reason that when the mission was driven 
 from Oregon City, it took refuge on this pile of roeks, 
 iuul liaving built a mill, afterwards sold it to Mr. Aber- 
 iiethy, one of the stockholders. Nothing is said about tlie 
 mill having been resold to Judge Bryant ; but Judge Bry- 
 iiiit could not object to having the Island confirmed to 
 him through Mr. Abernethy. 
 
 And here we may as well sever one of the threads in 
 our story. When it became known that by an act of Con- 
 gress Oregon City was reserved from the right of even an 
 American citizen to claim, and that only after years of 
 waiting would the title by possessory right be settled 
 either for or against him, the old Doctor's heart was broken. 
 He still continued to reside upon his claim, but the 
 uncertainty of title prevented any sales of property. The 
 iujjratitude of those whom he had assisted when assistance 
 was life itself to them, their refusals to pay what had been 
 lent them, and their constant calumniations, so bore upon 
 his spirits that his strength failed rapidly under them, and 
 for the last few years of his life he fancied himself reduced 
 to poverty, though he was still in possession of his im- 
 provements. 
 
 An example of the extent to which Rome men carried 
 their anti-McLaughlin principles may be fo' rd in the fol- 
 lowing story which was related to us by Li i gentleman 
 mentioned in it. The doctor one day stood upon the 
 street conversing with Mr. Thornton, who had been his 
 legal adviser in some instances, another gentleman also 
 being present. Their conversation was rudely interrupted 
 by a fourth individual, who set upon Mr. Thornton with 
 every manner of abuse and vile epithet for being seen in 
 communication with the " old Hudson's Bay, Jes- 
 uitical rascal," and much more to the same effect. To this 
 assault, Thornton, who had a great command of language, 
 
 ml 
 jisSi 
 
 rWi 
 
'flf 
 
 492 
 
 DEATH OF DR. MCLAUGHLIN. ^,; »f 
 
 I i 
 
 replied in a manner which sent the man about his business 
 Then turning to the Doctor, he said: 
 
 " Doctor, I will lay a wager that man is one of your 
 debtors, who never intends to pay, and takes it out in 
 abuse." 
 
 " Yes, yes," answered the Doctor, trying to suppress his 
 nervousness ; *' when he came to Oregon he was naked 
 and hungry. I gave him assistance to the amount of four 
 hundred dollars. He is rich now ; has land and herds, 
 and everything in abundance ; but he hates me on ac- 
 count of that four hundred dollars. That is the way with 
 most of them !" 
 
 Dr. McLaughlin died September, 18 nd is buried in 
 the Catholic church-yard in Oregon City. Five years after 
 his death the State of Oregon restored to his heirs the 
 property which it had so long wrongfully withheld. As 
 for the demagogue who embittered the last days of a good 
 man, for political advancement, he did not live to enjoy 
 his reward. His health, delicate at the best, was very 
 much undermined at last by discovering that he received 
 more blame than praise, even among his former supporters, 
 for the eleventh section of the Donation Law. He be- 
 came very ill on his return, and died at Acapulco, Mexico, 
 without reaching home. 
 
 Very many persons have confirmed what his admirer, 
 Meek, says of Dr. McLaughlin, that he deserved to be 
 called the Father of Oregon. 
 
 > ■ I... -. ; .V 
 
 ', ;.> . « A -r » ■ 
 
 ».-■.■• I -,, ii.j , • 
 
 -1.%*;, ^ it.: 
 
 
MAUNANIMITY OF THE CAYUSli CHllii'S. 
 
 493 
 
 CHAPTER XLIII. 
 
 1850-4. The Territorial law of Oregon combined the 
 olTices of Governor and Indian Agent. One of the most 
 important acts which marked Lane's administration was 
 that of securing and punishing the murderers of Dr. and 
 Mrs. Whitman. The Indians of the Cayuse tribe to whom 
 the murderers belonged, were assured that the only way 
 ill which they could avoid a war with the whites was to 
 deliver up the chiefs who had been engaged in the massacre, 
 to be tried and punished according to the laws of the 
 whites. Of the two hundred Indians implicated in the 
 massacre, five were given up to be dealt with according to 
 law. These were the five chiefs, Te-lou-i-ktte, Tam-a-has, 
 Klok-a-mas^ Ki-am-a-sump-kin^ and I-sa-ia-cha-lak-is. 
 
 These men might have made their escape ; thei e was 
 no imperative necessity upon them to suffer death, had 
 they chosen to flee to the mountains. But with that 
 strange magnanimity which the savage often shows, to the 
 astonishment of Christians, they resolved to die for their 
 people rather than by their flight to involve them in 
 war. 
 
 Early in the summer of 1850, the prisoners were deliv. 
 ered up to Gov. Lane, and brought down to Oregon City, 
 where they were given into the keeping of the marshal. 
 During their passage down the river, and while they were 
 incarcerated at Oregon City, their bearing was most proud 
 and haughty. Some food, more choice than their prison- 
 er's fare, being offered to one of the chiefs at a camp of 
 
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 i|':|K 
 
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 tip HH 
 
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 Hi 
 
 1 
 
 \ 
 
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494 
 
 PROUD BEARING OF THE PRISONERS. 
 
 1^ ( 
 
 the guard, in their transit down the Columbia, the proud 
 savage rejected it with scorn. 
 
 "What sort of heart have you," he asked, "that you 
 offer food to me, whose hands are red with your brother's 
 blood?" 
 
 And this, after eleven years of missionajy labor, -^vas all 
 the comprehension the savage nature knew of the main 
 principle of Christianity, — forgiveness, or cnarity toward 
 our enemies. . ^ i- 
 
 At Oregon City, Meek had m.any converiiations wlia 
 them. In all of these they gave but one explanation of 
 their crime. They feared that Dr. Whitman intended, 
 with the other whites, to take their land from them ; and 
 they were told by Jo Lewis, the half-breed, that the Doc- 
 tor's medicine v/as intended to kill them off quitjkly, in 
 order the sooner to get possession of their country. None 
 of them expressed any sorrow for what had been done; 
 but one of them, Ki-am-a-sump-kin^ declared his inno- 
 cence to the last. 
 
 In conversations with others, curious to "fain some 
 knowledge of the savage moral na,ture, Te-lou-ih'te often 
 puzzled these students of Indian ethics. When ques- 
 tioned as to his motive for allowing himself to be taken, 
 Te-lou-i-kite answered : 
 
 "Did not your missionaries tell us that Christ died to 
 save iiis people? So die we, to save our people!" 
 
 Notwithstanding the prisoners were pre-doomed to 
 death, a regular form of trial was gone through. The 
 Prosecuting Attorney for the Tenitory, A. Holbrook, con- 
 ducted the prosecution : Secretary Pritchett, Major Run- 
 nels, and Captain Claiborne, the defence. The fee of- 
 fered by the chiefs was fifty head of horses. Whether it 
 was compassion, or a love of horses which animated the 
 
 \) 
 
 'V 
 
"w^'ipT* 
 
 ERS. . 
 
 mbia, the proud 
 
 iked, "that you 
 a your brother's 
 
 J J labor, was all 
 
 ew of the main 
 
 cnarity toward 
 
 veriiations wllh 
 ! explanation of 
 tman intended, 
 roTCi them; and 
 i, that the Doc- 
 1 off quickly, in 
 country. None 
 lad been done; 
 ilared his inno- 
 
 to "fain some 
 'e-lou-ikite often 
 When ques- 
 jlf to be taken, 
 
 ; Christ died to 
 people!" 
 are-doomed to 
 through. The 
 Holbrook, con- 
 tt, Major Run- 
 The fee of- 
 Whether it 
 animated the 
 
 MEEK S DESCRIPTION OP THE TRIAL. 
 
 495 
 
 I 
 
 defence, quite an effort was made to shovv that the mur- 
 derers were not guilty. 
 
 The presiding Justice was 0. C. Pratt — Bryant having 
 resigned. Perhaps we cannot do better than to give the 
 Marshal's own description of the trial and execution, 
 which is as follows : " Thar war a great many indict- 
 ments, and a great many people in attendance at this 
 court. The Grand Jury found true bills against the five 
 Indians, and they war arraigned for trial. Captain Clai- 
 borne led off for the defence. He foamed and ranted 
 like he war acting a play in some theatre. He knew 
 about as much law as one of the Indians he war defend 
 ing ; and his gestures were so powerful that he smashed 
 two tumblers that the Judge had ordered to be filled with 
 cold vv^ater for him. After a time he gave out mentally 
 and physically. Then came Major Runnels, who made a 
 very good defence. But the Marshal thought they must 
 do better, for they would never ride fifty head of horses 
 widi them speeches. '•■ ' ^ ^ 
 
 Mr Pritchett closed for the defence with a very able 
 argument ; for he war a man of brains. But then followed 
 Jlr. Holbrook, for the prosecution, and he laid down the 
 case so plain that the jury were convinced before they 
 left the jury-box. When the J dge passed sentence of 
 death on them, two of the chi( !« showed no terror ; but 
 the other tliree were filled with horror and consternation 
 thai they could not conceal. 
 
 After court had adjourned, and Gov. Lane war gone 
 South on some business with the Rogue River Indians, 
 Secretary Pritchett came to me and told me that as he 
 war now acting Governor he meant to reprieve the In- 
 dians. Said he to me, ' Now Meek, I want you to liber* 
 ate them Indians, when yoi receive the order.' 
 
 
 Vi 
 
 ■ SJ,K,''ij: 
 
496 
 
 THE EXECUTION. 
 
 . 'Pritclictt,' said I, 'so far as Meek is concerned, he 
 would do anything for you.' 
 
 This talk pleased him ; he said he 'war glad to hear it' 
 and would go right off' and write the reprieve.' 
 
 * But,' said I, ' Pritchett, let us talk now like men. I 
 have got in my pocket the death-warrant of them Indians 
 signed by Gov. Lane. The Marshal v/ill execute them 
 men, as certain as the day arrives.' 
 
 Pritchett looked surprised, and remarked — 'That war 
 not what you just said, that you would do anything for 
 me.' ,: ff- . . .,, 
 
 Said I, 'you were talking then to Meek, — not to the 
 Marshal, who always does his duty.' At that he got mad 
 and left. - . ,, 
 
 When the 3d of June, the day of execution, arrived, 
 Oregon City was thronged with people to witness it, 1 
 brought forth the five prisoners and placed them on a 
 drop. Here the chief, who always declared his innocence, 
 Ki-am-i-sump-hin^ begged me to kill him with my knife,— 
 for an Indian fears to be hanged, — ^but I soon put an end 
 to his entreaties by cutting the rope which held the drop, 
 with my tomahawk. As I said ' The Lord have mercy on 
 your souls,' the trap fell, and the five Cayuses hung in 
 the air. Three of them died instantly. The other two 
 struggled for several minutes ; the Little Chief, Tam-a-hm^ 
 the longest. It was he who was cruel to my little girl at 
 the time of the massacre ; so I just put my foot on the 
 \noi to tighten it, and he got quiet. After thirty-five 
 minutes they were taken down and buried." 
 *" Thus terminated a tragic chapter in the history of Ore- 
 gon. Among the services which Thurston performed for 
 the Territory, was getting an appropriation of $100,000, 
 to pay the expense? of the Cayuse war. From the Spring 
 of 1848, when all the whites, except the Catholic mission- 
 aries, were withdrawn from the upper country, for a pe- 
 
STATE OF THE UPPER COUNTRY. 
 
 497 
 
 IS concerned, he 
 
 liod of several years, or until Government had made 
 treaties with the tribes east of the Cascades, no settlers 
 were permitted to take up land in Eastern Oregon. Dur- 
 ino- thosG years, the Indians, dissatisfied with the encroach- 
 ments which they foresaw the whites would finally make 
 upon tlieir countrj^, and incited by ceiiair. individuals who 
 IkuI suilered wrongs, or been punished for their own of- 
 fences at the hands of the whites, finally combined, as it 
 was supposed from the extent of the insurrection, and 
 Oregori was involved in a three years Indian war, the his- 
 tory of which would fill a volume of considerable size. 
 
 When Meek returned to Oregon as marshal, with his 
 fine clothes and his newly acquired social accomplish- 
 ments, he was greeted with a cordial acknowledgment of 
 his services, as well as admiration f r his improved appear- 
 ance. He was generally acknowledged to be the model 
 of a handsome marshal, w n clad in his half-military 
 dress, and placed astride of a line horse, in the execution 
 of the more festive duties of marshu! uf a procession on 
 some patriotic occasion, :j • •■ ' ' 
 
 But no amount of official responsibility could evT 
 change him from a wag into a "grave and reverend 
 seignior." No place nor occasion was sacred to liim when 
 the wild humor was on him. 
 
 At this satne term of court, after the conviction < ' the 
 Cayuse chiefs, there was a case before Judge att, in 
 which a man was charged with selling liquor to the In- 
 dians. In these cases Indian evidence was allowed, but 
 the jury-room being up stairs, caused a good deal of 
 annoyance in court ; because when an Indian witness was 
 wanted up stairs, a dozen or more who were not wanted 
 would follow. The Judge's bench was so placed that it 
 commanded a full view of the staircase and every one 
 passing up or down it. 
 A call for some witness to go before the jury was fol 
 
 Ih"' 
 
 ..ilu£w*i 
 
498 
 
 SCENE IN A COURT-ROOM. 
 
 ' i ' I r. 
 
 lowed on this occasion, as on all others, by a general rush 
 of the Indians, . ho were curious to witness the proceed- 
 ings. One fat old squaw had got part way up the stairs 
 when the Marshal, full of wrath, seized her by a leg and 
 dragged her down flat, at the same time holding the fat 
 
 MEEK AS UNITED STATES MARSHAL. 
 
 member so that it was pointed directly toward the Judge. 
 A general explosion followed this pointed action, and the 
 Judge grew very red in the face. rr... 
 
 " Mr. Marshal, come within the bar !" thundered the 
 Judge. . • ,., !:^! \..o<;: >?.. 
 
 Meek complied, with a very dubious expression, of 
 countenance. .;.: oa(^ .• . 
 
 " I must fine you fifty dollars," continued the Judge; 
 "the dignity of the Court must be maintained." 
 
 When court had adjourned that evening, the Judge 
 and the Marshal were walking toward their respective 
 lodgings. Said Meek to his Honor : v-.i.. 
 
JUDGE NKLSON AND THE CAIIPENTEUS. 
 
 499 
 
 ard the Judge, 
 action, and the 
 
 thundered the 
 
 "Why d'v^ you fine me so heavily to-day ?" ' '^ 
 
 " I must do .c," returned the Judge. " I must keep up 
 the dignity of the Court ; I must do it, if I pay the fines 
 myself" 
 
 "And you must pay all the fines you lay on the marshal, 
 of course," answered Meek. 
 
 " Very well," said the Judge ; " I shall do so." 
 
 "All right, Judge. As I am the proper disbursing 
 officer, you can pay that fifty dollars to me — and I'll take 
 it now." 
 
 At this view^ of the case, his Honor was staggered for 
 one moment, and could only swing his cane and laugh 
 faintly. After a little reflection, he said : 
 
 " Marshal, when court is called to-morrow, I shall remit 
 vour fine ; but don't you let me have occasiou to fine you 
 
 agaui ! 
 
 I" 
 
 After the removal of the capital to Salem, in 1852, 
 court was held in a new building, on which the carpenters 
 Avere still at work. Judge Nelson, then presiding, was 
 much put out by the noise of hammers, and sent the 
 marshal more than once, to request the men to suspend 
 their work during those hours when court was in session, 
 hut all to no purpose. Firuilly, when his forbearance was 
 quite exhausted, he appealed to the marshal for advice. 
 
 "What shall I do, Meek," said he, "to stop that in- 
 fernal noise ?" 
 
 "Put the workmen on the Grand Jury," replied Meek. 
 
 " Summon them instantly !" returned the Judge. They 
 were summoned, and quiet secured for that term. 
 
 At this same term of court, a great many of the foreign 
 born settlers appeared, to file their intention of becoming 
 American citizens, in order to secure the benefits of the 
 Donation Law. Meek was retained as a witness, to swear 
 to their qualifications, one of which was, that they were 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■.y 
 
500 
 
 THE OREGON COURT ON AN EXCURSION. 
 
 possessed of good moral characters. The first day there 
 were about two hundred who made declarations, Meek 
 witnessing for most of them. On the day following, he 
 declined serving any longer. 
 
 "What now?" inquired the Judge; "you made no 
 objections yesterday." 
 
 "Very true," replied Meek; "and two hundred lies 
 are enough for me. I swore that all those mountain-men 
 were of 'good moral character,' and I never knew a 
 mountain-man of that description in my life ! Let Newell 
 take the job for to-day." 
 
 The "job" was turned over to Newell; but whether 
 the second lot was better than the first, has never trans- 
 pired. 
 
 During Lane's administration, there was a murder com- 
 mitted by a party of Indians at the Sound, on the person 
 of a Mr. Wallace. Owing to the sparse settlement of the 
 country. Governor Lane adopted the original measure of 
 exporting not only the officers of the court, but the jury 
 also, to the Sound district. Meek was ordered to find 
 transportation for the court in toto, jury and all. Boats 
 were hired and provisioned to take the party to the 
 Cowelitz Landing, and from thence to Fort Steilacoom, 
 horses were hired for the land transportation. 
 
 The Indians accused were five in number — two chiefs 
 and three slaves. The Grand Jury found a true bill 
 against the two chiefs, and let the slaves go. So few 
 were the inhabitants of those parts, that the marshal was 
 obliged to take a part of the grand jury to serve on the 
 petite jury. The form of a trial was gone through with, 
 the Judge delivered his charge, and the jury retired. 
 
 It was just after night-fall when these worthies betook 
 themselves to the jury-room. One of them curled him- 
 self up in a corner of the room, with the injunction to 
 
THE CHIEF S WIFE. 
 
 501 
 
 the others to " wake him up when they got ready to hang 
 
 them rascals." The rest of the party spent four 
 
 or five hours betting against monte, when, being sleepy 
 also, they waked up their associate, spent about ten min- 
 utes in arguing their convictions, and returned a verdict 
 of "guilty of murder in the first degree." 
 
 The Indians were sentenced to be hung at noon on the 
 following day, and the marshal was at work early in the 
 morning preparing a gallows. A rope was procured 
 from a ship lying in the sound. At half-past eleven 
 o'clock, guarded by a company of artillery from the fort, 
 the miserable savages were marched forth to die. A 
 large number of Indians were collected to witness the 
 execution ; and to prevent any attempt at rescue, Captain 
 Hill's artillery formed a ring around the marshal and his 
 prisoners. The execution was interrupted or delayed for 
 some moments, on account of the frantic behavior of an 
 Indian woman, wife of one of the chiefs, whose entreaties 
 for the life of her husband were very affecting. Having 
 exhausted all her eloquence in an appeal to the nobler 
 feelings of the man, she finally promised to leave her 
 husband and become his wife, if he, the marshal, would 
 spare her lord and chief -^i" -'i:^ ,, 
 
 She was carried forcibly out of the ring, and the hang- 
 ing took place. When the bodies were taken down, 
 Meek spoke to the woman, telling her that now she could 
 have her husband ; but she only sullenly replied, " You 
 have killed him, and you may bury him." 
 
 This excursion of the Oregon court footed up a sum of 
 about $4,000, of which the marshal paid $1,000 out of 
 his own pocket. When, in the following year, Lane was 
 sent to Congress, Meek urged him to ask for an appropri- 
 ation to pay up the debt. Lane made no effort to do so, 
 
 'mm 
 
502 
 
 LANES CAREER IN OREGON. 
 
 probably because he did not care to have the illegality uf 
 the proceeding commented upon. , 
 
 Lane's career in Oregon, before the breaking out of the 
 rebellion, the betrayal of his secession proclivities, and 
 supposed actual conspiracy against the Government, was 
 that of a successi'ul politician. Having been appointed 
 so near the close of Polk's administration, he was suc- 
 ceeded, on the coming into office of General Taylor, by 
 General John P. Gaines, who arrived in Oregon in xVugust, 
 1850. In 1851, General Lane was elected delegate to 
 Congress, and returned to Oregon as Governor, by Frank- 
 lin Pierce, in 1853. He was appointed in March, arrived 
 at Salem May 16th, resigned the 19th, was elected to 
 Congress July 7th, returning again to Oregon, where he 
 at present resides, on the expiration of his term. His 
 mileage alone amounted to $10,000, besides the expenses 
 of his first overland journey. John W. Dg-vis was ne.xt 
 appointed Governor, by President Pierce. He arrived in 
 Salem April 1st, 1854, and resigned in August. A trip 
 to Oregon, with the mileage, appeared to be quite the 
 fashion of territorial times. 
 
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Ji££K AS UNITED STATES MAUaUAL. 
 
 )03 
 
 CHAPTER XLiy, 
 
 While Meek was in Washington, he had been dubbed 
 with the title of Colonel, which title he still bears, though 
 (luring the Indian war of 1855-56, it was alternated with 
 that of Major. During his raarshalship he was fond of 
 showing off his titles and authority to the discomfiture of 
 that class of people who had " put on airs " with him 
 in former days, when he was in his transition stage from 
 a trapper to a United States Marshal. 
 
 While Pratt was Judge of the District Court, a kidnap- 
 ing case came before him. The writ of habeas corpus 
 having been disregarded by the Captain of the Melvin^ 
 who was implicated in the business, Meek was sent to 
 arrest him, and also the first mate. Five of the Melvin^s 
 sailors were ordered to be summoned as witnesses, at the 
 same time. 
 
 Meek went on board with his summons, marched for- 
 ward, and called out the names of the men. Every man 
 came up as he was summoned. When they were together, 
 Meek ordered a boat lowered for their conveyance to 
 Oregon City. The men started to obey, when the Cap- 
 tain interfered, saying that the boat should not be taken 
 for such a purpose, as it belonged to him. 
 
 " That is of no consequence at all," answered the smiling 
 marshal. " It is a very good boat, and will suit our pur- 
 pose very well. Lower away, men ■ " 
 
 The men quickly dropped the boat. As it fell, they 
 
 n.t 
 
 
 sM'-f 
 
rV" ",'."T' 
 
 604 
 
 THE CAPTAIN OF THE MELVIN. 
 
 were ordered to man it. When they were at the oars 
 tlie mate was then invited to take a seat in it, wliicli he 
 did, after a moment's hesitation, and gUmeing at his supe- 
 rior officer. Meek then turned to the Captain, and ex- 
 tended the same invitation to him. But lie was reluctant 
 to accept the courtesy, blustering considerably, and de- 
 claring his intention to remain where he was. Meek 
 slowly drew his revolver, all the time cool and smiling. 
 
 " I don't like having to urge a gentleman too hard," 
 ho said, in a meaning tone ; " but thar is an argument 
 that few men ever resist. Take a seat. Captain." 
 
 The Captain took a seat ; the idlers on shore cheered 
 for "Joe Meek" — which was, after all, his most familiar 
 title ; the Captain and mate went to Oregon City, and 
 were fined respectively $500 and $300 ; the men took 
 advantage of being on shore to desert ; and altogether, 
 the master of the Melvin felt himself badly used. 
 
 About the same time news was received that a British 
 vessel was unloading goods for the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany, somewhere on Puget Sound. Under the new order 
 of affairs in Oregon, this was smuggling. Delighted with 
 an opportunity of doing the United States a service, and 
 the British traders an ill turn. Marshal Meek immediately 
 summoned a i)osse of men and started for the Sound. On 
 his way he learned the name of the vessel and Captain, 
 and recognized them as having been in the Columbia 
 Biver some years before. On that occasion the Captain 
 had ordered Meek ashore, when, led by his curiosity and 
 general love of novelty, he had paid a visit to this vessel. 
 This information v7as " nuts" to the marshal, who believed 
 that "a turn about was fair play." 
 
 With great ' dispatch and secrecy he arrived entirely 
 unexpected at the point where the vessel was lying, and 
 proceeded to board her without loss of time. The Cap- 
 
■^ 
 
 AllUEST OF A HUrnsIl KML'OOLEU. 
 
 505 
 
 tiiin and officers were taken by surprise and were all 
 aghast at this uidooked fur appearance. But after the 
 lirst iiioincnt of agitation was over, tlie Captain recognized 
 Meek, lie being a man not likely to be forgotten, and 
 thinking to turn this circumstance to advantage, approach- 
 oil him with the blandest of smiles and the most cordial 
 iiiiinner, saying with forced frankness — 
 
 " I am sure J have had the i)leasure of meeting you be- 
 fore. You must have been at Vancouver when my ves- 
 sel was in the river, seven or eight years ago. I am very 
 lui{)py to have met with you again." : ' 
 
 "Thar is some truth in that remark of yours. Captain," 
 replied Meek, eyeing him with lofty scorn; "you did 
 meet me at Vancouver several years ago. But I was 
 iiotliing but 'Joe Meek ' at that time, and you ordered me 
 asliore. Circumstances are changed since then. I am 
 now Colonel Joseph L. Meek, United States Marshal for 
 Oregon Territory ; and you sir, are only a smug- 
 gler! Go ashore, sir!" 
 
 The Captain saw the point of that concluding " go 
 asliore, sir!" and obeyed with quite as bad a grace as 'Joe 
 Meek ' had done in the first instance. 
 
 The vessel was confiscated and sold, netting to the Gov- 
 ernment about $40,000, above expenses. This money, 
 which fell into bad hands, failed to be accounted for. 
 Nobody suspected the integrity of the marshal, but most 
 persons suspected that he placed too much confidence in 
 the District Attorney, who had charge of his accounts. 
 On some one asking him, a short time after, what had be- 
 come of the money from the sale of the smuggler, he 
 seemed struck with a sudden surprise: 
 
 ''Why," said he, looking astonished at the question, 
 ''tliar was barly enough for the officers of the court!" 
 
 This answer, given as it was, with such apparent simplic- 
 
 
 i 
 
 "„.l.l*ivfc».sll| 
 
500 
 
 MISPLACED CONFIDENCE AND THE HESULT. 
 
 ily, ])GCJime a popular juku ; and " barly enough" wiia 
 quoted on all occasions. ^ 
 
 The truth was, tliat there was a serious deficiency in 
 Meek's account with the Government, resulting entirely 
 from his want of confidence in his own literary accom- 
 plishments, which led him to trust all his corrr>!5pondenoo 
 and his accounts to the hands of a man whose talents wero 
 more eminent than his sense of honor. The result of this 
 misplaced confidence was a loss to the Government, and 
 to himself, whom the Government held accountable. Con- 
 trarv to the general rule of disbursing officers, ilie office 
 made; him poor instead of rich ; and when on the incom- 
 ing of the Pierce administration he suffered dt.apitation 
 along with the other Territorial officers, he Wa-, lo reed to 
 retire upon his farm on the Tualatin Plains, and become a 
 rather indifferent tiller of the earth. 
 
 The breaking out of the Indian war of 1855-6, was 
 preceded by a long period of uneasiness among the Indi- 
 ans generally. The large emigration which crossed the 
 plains every year for California and Oregon was one cause 
 of the disturbance ; not only by exciting their fears for 
 the possession of their lands, but by the temptation which 
 was offered them to take toll of the travelers. Difficulties 
 occurred at first between the emigrants and Indians con- 
 cerning stolen property. These quarrels were followed, 
 probably the subsequent year, by outrages and murder 
 on the part of the Indians, and retaliation on the part of 
 volunteer soldiers from Oregon. When once this system 
 of outrage and retaliation on either side, w^as begun, there 
 was an end of security, and war followed as an inevitable 
 consequence. Very horrible indeed were the acts per- 
 petrated by the Indians upon the emigrants to Oregon, 
 during the years from 1852 to 1858. 
 
 But when at last the call to arms was made in Oregon, 
 
■^^ 
 
 INDIAN DIHTUUBANCES — THE AGENT MUIIDKUED. 
 
 507 
 
 lade in Oregon, 
 
 it Wiis iiii opportunity i^ought, and not an altcM-nativo 
 forced ui)on tlioni, hy tho politicians of that Territory. 
 Tiio occasion was simply this. A party of lawless wretches 
 from the Sound Country, passing over the Cascade Moun- 
 tiiiiis into the Yakima Valley, on their way to the U{)per 
 roliiiii'oia mines, found some Yakima women digging roots 
 ill a lonely place, and abused them. The women fled to 
 thoir village and told the chiefs of the outrage ; and a party 
 followed the guilty whites and killed several of them in a, 
 tight. •■• ' '' '■ • '• ■ - 
 
 Mr. Bolin, the Indian aub-agent for Washington went 
 to the Yakima village, and instead of judging of the case 
 iiiipartially, made use of threats in the name of the United 
 States Government, saying that an army should be sent to 
 punish them for killing his people. On his return home, 
 Mr. Bolin was followed and murdered. 
 
 The murder of an Indian agent was an act which could 
 not be overlooked. Very properly, the case should have 
 been taken notice of in a manner to convince the Indiana 
 thiit murder must be punished. But, tempted by an op- 
 portunity for gain, and encouraged by the somewhat rea- 
 sonable fears of the white population of Washington and 
 Oregon, Governor G. L. Curry, of the latter, at once pro- 
 claimed war, and issued a call for volunteers, without wait- 
 ing for the sanction or assistance of the general Govern- 
 ment. The moment this was done, it was too late to re- 
 tract. It was as if a torch had been applied to a field of 
 dry grass. So simultaneously did the Indians from Puget 
 Sound to the Rocky Mountains, and from the Rocky Moun- 
 tains to the southern boundary of Oregon send forth the 
 war-whoop, that there was much justification for the belief 
 which agitated the people, that a combination among the 
 Indians had been secretly agreed to, and that the whites 
 were all to be exterminated. .^^^•^■■f«~M-^i'^*^-'"r'--''^^'-^'.-^-r^^f:-.^.* 
 
 
 III 
 
 M 
 
508 
 
 THE INDIAN WAR OF 1855-6. '^ 
 
 Volunteer companies were already raised and sert into 
 the Indian country, when Brevet Major G. 0. Haller ar- 
 rived at Vancouver, now a part of the United States. He 
 had been as flir east as Fort Boise to protect the incomino- 
 immigration ; and finding on his return that there was an 
 Indian war on hand, proceeded at once to the Yakima 
 country v/ith his small force of one hundred men only 
 lifty Oi whom were mounted. Much solicitude was felt 
 for the result of the lirst engagement, every one knowing 
 that if the Indians weie at first successful, the war would 
 be long and bloody. 
 
 Major Haller was defeated with considerable loss, and 
 notwithstanding slight reinforcements, from Fort Vancou- 
 ver, only succeeded in getting ".afely out of the country. 
 Major Raines, the commanding officer at Vancouver, seeing 
 the direction of events, made a requisition upon Governor 
 Curiy for .four of his volunteer corapauies to go into the 
 field. Then followed applications to Major Raiiios for 
 horses and arms to equip the volunteers ; but the horses 
 at the Fort being unfit for se^-vice, and the Major unau- 
 thorized to equip volunteer troops, there resulted only 
 misunderstandings and delays. When General Wool, at 
 the head of the Department in San Francisco, was con- 
 sulted, he also was v.-ithout authority to employ or receive 
 the voluntc s; and when the volunteers, who at length 
 armed and equipped themselves, came to go into the field 
 with the regulars, they could not agree as to the mode of 
 fighting Indians; so that wnth one thing and another, the 
 war became an exciting topic for more reasons tnan be- 
 cau'?e the whiles were afraid of the Indians. As for Gen- 
 eral Wool, he was in great disfavor both in Oregon and 
 Washington because he did not believe there ever had 
 existed the necessity for. a war ; and that therefore he 
 bestowed what assistance was at his command very grudg- 
 
":!7|l'*fr-'^7*'"" 
 
 OFFICEllS OF THE WAR — VOLUNTEERS. 
 
 509 
 
 ingly. General \^'ool, it was said, was jealous of the vol- 
 unteers; and the volunteers certainly cared little for the 
 
 OpiMlOll 
 
 of General Wool. 
 
 However all that may be, Col. Meek gives it as his ophi- 
 iou that the old General was right. " It makes me think," 
 SiiiJ he, " of a bear-fight 1 once saw in the Rook} Moun- 
 tains, where a huge old grizzly was surrounded by a pack 
 of ten or twelve dogs, all snapping at and worrying him. 
 It made him powerful mad, and every now and then he 
 would make a claw at one of tliem that silenced him at 
 once." 
 
 The Indian war in Oregon gave practice to a number of 
 officers, since become famous, most prominent among 
 whom is Sheridan, who served in Oregon as a I.ieutenant. 
 Grant himself, was at one time a Captain on that frontier. 
 Col. Wright, afterwards Geu. Wright, succeeded Major 
 Ranges at Vancouver, and conducted the war through its 
 most active period. During a period of three years there 
 were troops constantly occupied in trying to subdue the 
 Indians in one quarter or another. 
 
 As for the volunteers they fared badly. On the first 
 call to arms the people responded liberally. The proposi- 
 tion which the Governor made for their equipment was 
 accepted, and they turned in their property at a certain 
 valuation. When the war was over and the property sold, 
 the men who had turned it in could not purchase it with- 
 out paying more for it in gold and silver than it was val- 
 ued at when it was placed in the hands of the Quarter- 
 master. It was sold, however, and the money enjoyed by 
 the shrewd political speculators, who thought an Indian 
 war a very good investment. 
 
 Aleek was one of the first to volunteer, and went as a 
 private in Company A. On arriving at the Dalles he was 
 detailed for special scj'vice by Col. J. W. Nesmith, and 
 
 ■pit 
 
510 
 
 MAJOR MEEK AS A VOLUNTEER. 
 
 Is 1 " 
 
 . 1 
 
 i 
 1 i 
 
 t 
 
 ■ 
 
 i 
 I \ 
 
 ■ : 1 
 
 sent out as pilot or messenger, whenever any such duty 
 was required. He -was finally placed on Nesraith's staff 
 ind given the title of Major. In this capacity, as in every 
 other, he was still the same alert and willing individual 
 that we have always seen him, and not a whit less inclined 
 to be merry when an opportunity offered. 
 
 While the army was in the Yakima country, it being an 
 enemy's country, and provisions scarce, the troops some- 
 times were in want of rations. But Meek had not forgot- 
 ten his mountain craft, and always had something to eat, 
 if anybody did. One evening he had killed a fat cow 
 which he had discovered astray, and was proceeding to 
 roast a twenty-pound piece before his camp-fire, when a 
 number of the officers called on him. The sight and sa- 
 vory smell of the beef was very grateful to them. 
 
 "Major Meek," said they in a breath, "we will sup with 
 you to-night." ' a-.... 
 
 "I am very sorry, gentlemen, to decline the honor," 
 returned Meek with a repetition of the innocent surprise 
 for which he had so often been laughed at, "but lam 
 very hungry, and thar is barly enough beef for one 
 man!" 
 
 On hearing this sober assertion, those who had heard 
 the story laughed, but the rest looked rather aggrieved. 
 However, the Major continued his cooking, and when the 
 beef was done to a turn, he invited his visitors to the 
 feast, and the evening passed merrily with jests and camp 
 stories. 
 
 After the army went into winter-quarters, Nesmith hav- 
 ing resigned, T. U. Cornelius was elected Colonel. One 
 of his orders prohibited firing in camp, an order which as 
 a good mountaineer the Major should have remembered. 
 But having been instructed to proceed to Salem without 
 delay, as bearer of dispatches, the Major committed the 
 
" MARKING TIME." 
 
 511 
 
 oiTor of firing his gun to see if it was in good condition 
 for a trip through the enemy's country. Shortly after he 
 received a message from his Colonel requesting him to 
 repair to his tent. The Colonel received him politely, and 
 invited him to breakfast with him. The aroma of cofiee 
 Diacle this invitation peculiarly acceptable — for luxuries 
 ^vere scarce in camp — and the breakfast proceeded for 
 some time very agreeably. When Meek had breakfasted, 
 Colonel Cornelius took occasion to inquire if the Major 
 had not heard hi^ order against firing in camp. " Yes," 
 said Meek. "Then," said the Colonel, "I shall be 
 obliged to make an example of you." 
 
 While Meek stood aghast at the idea of vanishment, a 
 guard appeared at the door of the tent, and he heard 
 what his punishment was to be, " Mark time for twenty 
 minutes in the presence of the whole regiment." 
 
 "When the command "forward! was given," says Meek, 
 "you might have seen somebody step off lively, the offi- 
 cer counting it off, 'left, left.' But some of the regiment 
 grumbled more about it than I did. I just got my horse 
 and my dispatches and left for the lower country, and 
 when I returned I asked for my discharge, and got it." 
 
 And here ends the career of our hero as a pubhc man. 
 The history of the young State, of which he is so old a 
 pioneer furnishes ample material for an interesting volume, 
 and will sometime be written by an abler than our sketchy 
 pen. One thing only it occurs to us to state in connec- 
 tion with it, that while riany Northern men went, as Gen. 
 Lane did, into the rebellion against the Government, our 
 nol)lcr Virginian was ever sternl}'- loyal. 
 
 The chief excitement of Col. Meek's life at present, is 
 
 ill his skirmishes with the Nazerene and other preachers 
 
 in his neighborhood. They seem not to be able to see 
 
 him treading so gently the downhill of life, when they 
 
 33 
 
 !;i|Si 
 
I i 
 
 512 
 
 END OF MEEK S PUBLIC CAREER, 
 
 fe 
 
 II 
 
 kf; 
 
 fear he may " go to the pit " prepared for mountaiii-iimn, 
 In this state of mind they preach at him on every possible 
 occasion, whether suitable or not, and usually he takes it 
 I pleasantly enough. But when their attacks become too 
 ■ personal, he does as did the bear to whom he likened Gen. 
 Wool, he "hits one a claw that silences him." ,...,j,r,j,>,, 
 Being very much annoyed on one occasion, not very 
 long since, by the stupid and vulgar L^peech of a 
 "preacher " whom he complimented by going to hear, he 
 deliberately marched up to the preacher's desk, took the 
 frightened little orator on his hip, and carried him out of 
 the house, to the mingled horror, amazement, and amuse- 
 ment of the congregation. 
 
 We think that a man who at fifty-eight is able to per- 
 form such a feat, is capable of achieving fresh laurels, and 
 need not retire upon those he has won. 
 
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 ■* .J< 
 
 
THE NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD. 
 
 513 
 
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 ^'(i..-. 
 
 v. J .:•.■'[ '• J' ')'■;'/ itjr, I ij^/\.^; 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 ';ji» 
 
 It was no part of the original intention of the author 
 of the foregoing narrative to extend the work beyond 
 the personal adventures of one man, and such portions 
 of collateral, history as were necessary to a perfect under- 
 standing of the times and events spoken of But since 
 the great interest which the public have taken in the 
 opening of the first Pacific Railroad has become apparent, 
 it lias been deemed expedient to subjoin some facts con- 
 cerning the Western Division of the Northern Pacific Rail- 
 road, now in contemplation, and to become a reality, 
 probably, within an early day. 
 
 The Northern Pacific Road will have its eu"tern end 
 somewhere on Lake Superior, and its western term'-'us at 
 a point on Puget's Sound not yet determined. As that 
 portion of the road lying west of Fort Union, on the 
 Missouri River, traverses much of the country spoken of 
 iu the adventures of the fur-traders, as well as all the 
 northern part of what was once the Oregon Territory, 
 whose early history we have already given, it will not be 
 found altogether irrelevant to enter into a brief descrip- 
 tion of the country so soon to be opened to the traveling 
 public. Hitherto we have roamed it in imagination as 
 the fur-traders did, bent only on beaver-^kins and adven- 
 ture. Now we will briefly consider it as a country fit for 
 the permanent settlement of industrious Peoples seeking 
 homes for themselves and the coming generations. 
 
 li 
 
 i) 
 
 ^^SBf 
 
614 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 
 Western Oregon. — To commence with the oldest set- 
 tled portion of the original Oregon Territory, we will 
 first describe that portiofi of the present State of Oreo'on 
 technically known as Western Oregon. All that portion 
 of the State of Oregon lying Avest of the Cascade Moun- 
 tains, is comprised in three principal valleys — the Walla- 
 met,* the Umpqua, and the Rogue Ptiver Valleys — and in 
 a narrow strip of country lying along the coast, and sepa- 
 rated from the valleys by the Coast range of mountains. 
 These two ranges of mountains, the Cascades, high and 
 almost inaccessible on the east, and the Coast range, sepa- 
 rating it from the sea on the west, make of Western Ore 
 gon a country with a very peculiar geography. With 
 the Columbia River for a northern boundary, and with 
 three transverse ranges of mountains to the south, sepa- 
 rating the several valleys, the situation of Western Oregon 
 is isolated and unique. 
 
 The Wallamet River takes its rise in the Cascade Moun- 
 tains, flowing westwardly for some distance, when it takes 
 a course almost directly north, and falls into the Columbia 
 in about btitude 45° 30', and longitude 45° 40'. The 
 whole length of this river is probably not over one hun- 
 dred and seventy-five miles ; and the extent of its valley 
 proper is in the neighborhood of one hundred and twenty- 
 five miles in length, by from sixty to eighty in breadth. 
 Numerous tributaries flow into the Wallamet from either 
 side, making the country both fertile and agreeable. 
 
 The Wallamet Valley is mostly open prairie land, ready 
 for the plowshare. At the northern end of it, however, 
 and within a few miles of the Columbia, there are dense 
 forests of fir, pine, yew, and cedar, on all the high and 
 dry lands, while the bottom-lands along the streams are 
 
 * Incorrectly spelled on the maps, WiUamette. 
 
THE WALLAMET VALLEY. 
 
 515 
 
 covered with a fine growth of oak, ash, maple, cotton- 
 wood, alder, and willow. But as we travel southward 
 from the Columbia, the timber along the Wallamet be- 
 comes less dense, until finally we come to the beautiful 
 open prairies, only half hidden from view by a thin fringe 
 of low trees, and picturesquely dotted here and there by 
 oToves of oak and fir intermingled. ; 
 
 The Prairies of Western Oregon do not resemble the 
 immense flat plains of Illinois ; but are rather gently un- 
 dulating, and bear a strong likeness to the " oak open- 
 ings" of Michigan and Wisconsin. Instead of being con- 
 tinuous levels, they are divided by low ranges of hills, 
 covered with oak timber, low and spreading, and draped, 
 like the trees of the Sacramento Valley, with a long 
 hanging gray moss, that floats lightly on the summer 
 wind, as if celebrating the delightful mildness and beauty 
 of the scene. 
 
 The Wallamet, although navigable for one hundred and 
 thirty miles from its mouth, is, like all the rivers west of 
 the Rocky Mountains, troubled with rapids, and narrowed 
 in some places to little more than the width of the passing 
 steamer. In the latter part of summer, steamers cannot 
 ascend it beyond Salem, the capital of the State. Of its 
 ten principal tributaries, most of them are navigable for 
 considerable distances, and all of them furnish abundant 
 water-power. •• .?>-.,. .«.^-"-..--*-r ....«,...-, . 
 
 The Falls of the Wallamet^ about twenty -five miles 
 from its junction with the Columbia, furnish the greatest 
 water-power in the State, as also some fine scenery. 
 Above the falls, the water spreads out into a wide, deep 
 basin, and runs slowly and smoothly until within a half- 
 mile of the falls, when its width diminishes, its velocity 
 iccreases, and in its haste it turns back upon itself, form- 
 ing dangerous eddies, until at length, forced forward, it 
 
 III 
 
616 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 nivA 5IHT 
 
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 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ;{:.:' 
 
 
 1 1 ; . 
 
 1 
 
 ' ' c 
 
 1 
 
 W 
 
 5 
 
 1" ,.„ 
 
 i 
 
 makes the plunge of more than twenty feet, into a boilinff 
 whirlpool below, and breaks into foam along a ledge of 
 
 volcanic rock stretching from shore to shore. The 
 
 spray, 
 
 dashed up by the descent of the water, forms a beautiful 
 rainbow, besides being a means of cooling the hot air of 
 the summer noon at Oregon City, which is situated aW 
 the rocky bluffs at this point of the river. 
 
 The navigation of the river thus interrupted, formerly 
 necessitated a portage of a couple of miles at Oregon 
 City ; but recently the People's Transportation Company 
 have erected a strong basin on the east side of the river, 
 which permits their boats to come so close together that 
 the passengers and freight have only to pass through the 
 Company's warehouse to be transferred. 
 
 The amount of agricultural land in the Wallamet Val- 
 ley is estimated at about three million acres. This esti- 
 mate leaves out large bodies of land in the foot-hills of 
 the mountains, on either side, more suitable for grazing 
 than for farming purposes. g-i, m -. 
 
 Tlie Soil of the Wallamet Valley is of excellent quahty. 
 Upon the prairies it consists of gray, calcareous, sandy 
 loam, especially adapted to the cultivation of cereals, par- 
 ticularly of wheat, barley, and oats. It is exceedingly 
 mellow and easily worked, and is not affected by drouth. 
 Along the banks of the river, and the streams tributary 
 to it, the soil consists of various decomposed earths, sand, 
 and vegetable matter, deposited there in seasons of freshet, 
 and is of the most fertile description. The soil of the 
 foot-hills is a dark clay loam, mixed with vegetable mold 
 in the small intervening valleys. Excellent grasses are 
 produced, though this kind of soil suffers more from 
 drouth than that of the prairies. »-t 
 . The Climate of the Wallamet FaZZe?/ is mild and agreeable. 
 The seasons are two, — the wet and the dry. The rainy 
 
THE CLIMATE OF THE WALLAMET VALLEY. 
 
 517 
 
 soason usually commences in November, although fre- 
 quently it holds off, except a few light showers, until De- 
 ceniber. The rains continue pretty constantly until about 
 the last of January, when there is a clearing up of three 
 or four weeks. This interval is the real winter season, 
 and is sometimes cold, with frozen ground, or snow, though 
 (renerally the Oregon winters are not characterised either 
 by cold or snow to any great amount. After this "clear 
 spell " comes a second season of rains which may clear up 
 by the first of March, or not until April. It is not an un- 
 usual thing for gardening to be commenced in February ; 
 but the result of this early gardening is not always sure. 
 
 Whci- the rains of winter have passed, there are occa- 
 sional showers until the first of July, after which there is 
 a dry period of four months. This dry season instead of 
 being oppressive, as would be the case in the Atlantic 
 States, is most delightful. Sufficient moisture is borne in 
 from the sea, over the tops of the Coast range to make the 
 air of a fine coolness and freshness, and not enough to 
 make it humid. Thus there is a fine, dry, cool air, with a 
 moderate temperature, and a dry warm earth, which makes 
 an Oregon summer the most charming season to be expe- 
 rienced in any part of the world. The nights are always 
 cool enough to make a blanket necessary. The mornings 
 bright and not too hot — the heated term during dog-days 
 only extending over the hours from 12 M. to 4 P. M. 
 
 That a climate such as this must be healthful is undeni- 
 able. During the falling of the rains there is little or no 
 sickness. Just after the rain ceases falling, and before the 
 earth becomes dry, the rapid evaporation causes colds and 
 coughs to the careless or the inexperienced. Through the 
 dry season there is little sickness except in certain locali- 
 ties where, as in all new countries, malaria is formed by 
 the exposure to the sun of new or submerged soils. 
 
518 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 ■■■ 
 
 ■ ■ 
 
 • i! 
 
 ^ f 
 
 ; 
 
 
 
 One of the faults, so to speak, of Western Oregon is 
 its mildness of climate. The af^ricultural population are 
 prone to be negligent in providing for that irregular, and 
 uncertainly certain occasional visitation, a " hard winter." 
 Therefore the stock-raiser who has his sevei-al hundred 
 head of cattle and hor.scs ranging his one or two thousand 
 acres of uplands, and who, trusting in Providence, makes 
 no sufficient provision for a month or six weeks of feed- 
 ing, is liable once in five to eight years, to lose nearly all 
 of his stock. T)id this same stock-raiser have to get his 
 cattle througli seven months of winter as many eastern 
 farmers do, he might come at last to be willing to provide 
 for the possible six weeks. Cattle in Oregon generally 
 look poor in the spring, because the farmers allow them 
 to shift for themselves all through the rainy season, which 
 they should not do. For this reason. Western Oregon, al- 
 though naturally the best of dairy countries, furnishes lit- 
 tle butter and cheese, and that often of a poor quality. 
 An influx of Central New York dairymen would greatly 
 benefit the state, and develop one of its surest means of 
 wealth. 
 
 The Productions of the Wallamet Valley are wheat, oats, 
 barley, rye, wool, and fruits. All of the grains grow 
 abundantly, and are of unusual excellence. The same is 
 true of such fruits a.s apples, pears, plums, cherrie?, cur- 
 rants, gooseberries, strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, 
 etc. In fact all fruits do well in Western Oregon, except 
 grapes, peaches, apricots, nectarines, and that class of 
 fruits which love a dry and hot climate. Grapes and 
 peaches can be raised with sufficient care, but are not a 
 natural crop like the first mentioned fruits. Corn is not 
 raised as a crop, on account of the cool nights, which are 
 not favorable to its ripening. .. ■''♦:• :<;..': ' '-^^hm 
 
 The Untpqiia Valley is that portion of Western Oregon 
 
TUE COAST COUNTRY. 
 
 519 
 
 next south of the Wallamct Valley, being divided from it 
 by a range of mountains bearing tlio Indian name of Cala- 
 pooya. It is a region not so well fitted for grain-raising 
 as tlic Wallamet valley, but is perhaps superior as a fruit- 
 growing and wool-raising section. The valley is watered 
 by the Umpqua River, and is broken up into numerous 
 hills and valleys, in the most picturesque manner. It is 
 one of the most beautiful portions of the Pacific Coast, 
 being rolling, well, without being densely wooded, and 
 having a very agreeable climate, with rather less rain than 
 Mis in the lower altitude of the Wallamet. 
 
 The Rogue River Valley is another division of Western 
 Oregon, divided from the Umpqua vnlley by a range of 
 mountains bearing the name of Umpqua. It resembles 
 the country just described in general, but has a climate 
 which is a happy mixture of Californian dryness and Oro- 
 gonian moisture. It is not considered a grain-growing coun- 
 try to any great extent ; not from any inadaptability of 
 the soil, but because it is a very superior grazing and fruit- 
 growing country, and has also a considerable mining noto- 
 riety. It is separated from northern California by the 
 Liskiyou range of mountains, and watered by the Rogue 
 River and its northern tributaries. 
 
 The Coast Country consists of a strip of land from five 
 to twelve miles wide, lying between the westernmost range 
 of mountains in Oregon, and the sea. It contains several 
 counties, whose chief agricultural merits consist in the ex- 
 cellence of their grasses and vegetables. Fruit too, grows 
 very well in the Coast counties. Hops and honey, as well 
 as butter, are among their chief farming products. But 
 the greatest wealth of the Coast counties is probably to be 
 derived from the heavy forests of timber which cover the 
 mountain sides ; and from the mines of coal and copper 
 which underlie them. . ,m^s<i::\ 
 
520 
 
 WESTKUX OREGON. 
 
 1 
 
 
 1: 
 
 : , ' 
 
 A number of points have already become quite famous 
 for business along the coast ; Coose Bay for its coal und 
 lumber; Tilamook for its oysters; and Yaquina for its 
 good harborage, and easy access through a fine natural 
 pass to the heart of the Wallainet valley. The port of 
 Umpqua once promised to become a point of some; imjwt- 
 ance, but latterly has fallen into neglect from the difiioulty 
 of communicating thence with the interior. 
 
 The climate of the Coast counties is cooler and more 
 moist than that of the valleys to the eastward, on account 
 of their contiguity to the sea. Their soil is deep, black, 
 and rich, supporting an immense growth of shrubbery, 
 and ferns from ten to fourteen feet in height. The prai- 
 rie spots are covered with grass, and so are the hill-sides 
 wherever the timber is not too dense. Though the mean 
 temperature of the Coast counties is lower than that of the 
 interior, it is also more even ; and the sea-fogs in summer 
 as well as the rains in winter serve to keep the natural 
 grasses in excellent condition. In short every circum- 
 stance seems to point to the Coast counties of Oregon as 
 the great dairy region of the Pacific Coast, as the valleys 
 of the interior are the granaries, and the hill-sides the 
 sheep-pastures. 
 
 Good feed the year round, grain enough for the wants 
 of the farmer, plenty of cold mountain water, abundance 
 of timber, plenty of game and fish, are all inducements to 
 the settler who wishes to make himself a permanent home 
 on the Pacific Slope. These, added to the wealth yet to 
 be developed in mines and lumber at every opening where 
 a vessel of a hundred tons can enter, make the future of 
 these now almost vacant Coast counties look inviting. 
 • Resume of the Soil^ Climate and Resources of Western 
 Oregon. — From the foregoing general description of West- 
 ern Oregon it will be seen that the country lying between 
 
ROIL, CLIMATR, nESOUIVES. 
 
 521 
 
 the Cascade Mountains and the Coast range, consists of 
 one valley containing about as much agricultural land of 
 the best quality as would make a State of the size of Con- 
 necticut, and two other smaller valleys, with a less ])ropor- 
 tioii of farming land, and a greater proportion of hill and 
 piistiire lands. Also that between the Coast range and 
 the ocean is a strip of country wide enough for a tier of 
 counties, peculiarly adapted to grazing purposes, yet not 
 without considerable arable land. '■■•■■ 
 
 No one can survey the Wallaraet Valley without being 
 struck with its beauty and its fertility, and nniny are found 
 who pronounce it the most beautiful sj)ot in America. Its 
 beauty consists in the agreeable intermixture of level or 
 rolling prairies, with ranges of low hills, dotted with oak 
 timber, in the multitude of its winding rivers, along which 
 grow a skirting of graceful trees, and in the grandeur of 
 the mountains which guard it alike from the heat of the 
 eastern deserts, and the cold of the northern ocean. Its 
 fertility is evident from the mighty forests which mantle 
 the hills in everlasting green, and from the grassy plains 
 which year after year clothe the valley with renewed ver- 
 dure, as well as from the golden harvest fields which man 
 has interspersed among the universal green. r';-s'>;i, 
 
 The question which first suggests itself is concerning 
 the durability of the soil which picjduces so well in a wild 
 state. A sketch of the history of agriculture in Oregon 
 will serve to point to an answer. ••'^^"--••^" ';*• 
 
 Many portions of Oregon have been cultivated for a 
 period of twenty-five years without any of those aids to 
 the soil, or that care in preparation and cultivation which 
 is thought necessary to keep up the quality of soils in 
 other farming States. This thriftless mode of farming was 
 the result, partly of an absence of laborers and good 
 forming utensils, for the first fifteen years of the occupa- 
 
522 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 tion of Oregon by a farming community. From the neces- 
 sity of poor funning grew tlie habit. It was found that tluj 
 earth would continue to produce Y/hon only half-cultivated 
 hence farmers grew indolent from too great security. Tho 
 great regularity of the seasons too, by which the maturiiiu 
 of crops became a certainty, contributed to this general 
 indillerence, for it is an established fact that in order to 
 work well, men must be in some sort compelled to work. 
 
 Another reason why farmers have not put themselves 
 upon their mettle in a generous emulation, was, that for 
 many years farm products were worth little or nothing for 
 want of a market. All these reasons conspired to confirm 
 a habit of indifferent cultivation, which accident and the 
 condition of the country first forced upon them. Yet 
 these same lands do not appear to have suffered very ma- 
 terially from this long course of impoverishment. yr^- , 
 
 Yet another cause of poor farming has been in the fact 
 of so large bodies of land having been held as sing] 3 farms. 
 It is impossible, of course, for one family to cultivate a 
 mile square of land. Hence a little grain was scratched 
 in on one portion of the claim, and a little more on another, 
 and till so scattered, and carelessly done that no first-rate 
 crops CO aid possibly be obtained. 
 
 The soil of the prairies is of a dark gray color, is mel- 
 low, and not affected by drouth. It is especially adapted 
 to cereals, and grows vegetables and fruits well, but not 
 so well as the more alluvial soil formed immediately along 
 the banks of the rivers and streams. It is found, too, that 
 thc.u portion of the prairie which grows ferns, and the land 
 which skirts the oak groves, or has been clean i of tim- 
 ber, is more favorable to fruit-growing than the more 
 compact soil of the prairie. The timbered lands every 
 where are productive, excepting occasional clay ridges 
 where pines are found. The prairies still furnish grass in 
 
SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES. 
 
 523 
 
 From the ncccs- 
 ras found that tlio 
 Ij half-ciiltivateil 
 It security. The 
 lich the maturiii" 
 to this geneml 
 
 that in order to 
 mpellcd to work, 
 t put themselves 
 on, was, that for 
 tie or nothing for 
 spired to confirm 
 accident and the 
 pon them. Yet 
 uffered very ina- 
 shment. 
 
 been in the fact 
 d as sing] i farms. 
 y to cultivate a 
 1 was scratched 
 nore on another, 
 that no first-rate 
 
 •ay color, is mel- 
 pccially adapted 
 ts well, but not 
 mediately along 
 ; found, too, that 
 'ns, and the land 
 clean d of tim- 
 than the more 
 ed lands every- 
 nal clay ridges 
 furnish grass in 
 
 abuiuhincc for hay, but not of such quality nor in such 
 (juantity as the swampH, swales, and beaver-dams nejir the 
 rivers and in the heavy timber when drained and cleared. 
 Of tlie several varieties of soil in Western Oregon, 
 tliere are none that are not sufficiently productive to in- 
 vite luljor witli a promise of reward. The whole face of 
 the country is productive, and when ver the hillsides are 
 not too steep to pitch a tent, those things needed by man 
 may be made to grow abundantly. 
 
 Climate, however, and the shape of the country govern 
 ?iieii in their selection of occupations. The grain-farmer 
 ;,ill keep to the valleys; the fruitgrower will occujiy the 
 gentle slopes of the lowest hills ; the stock-raiser will set- 
 tle among the foot-hills, and take his sheep to the moun- 
 tains; while the dairy-man will seek those spots whore 
 grass is good for the longest period of time, and where 
 the temperature favors the making of good, solid and 
 sweet butter and cheese. 
 
 Tlie nights in Western Oregon are always cool, and sleep 
 becomes a regular refreshment. It is owing to the low 
 temperature of the nights that corn and some varieties of 
 fruit have commonly failed. However the proper cultiva- 
 tion Avill yet produce thone things in a sufficient abundance. 
 Good corn has been raised in Western Oregon, and pciiches 
 of splendid size and flavor occasionally find their way to 
 market. Apples, cherries, and plums of unequalled size 
 and e.^cellence grow in astonishing profusion. 
 
 The winters of Western Oregon, though rainy, are gen- 
 erally mild. The principal hardship of the rainy season 
 consists in simply enduring the monotony of the dull sky 
 and constant rain. It is, however, a favorable climate for 
 the farmer, since he is not forced to work hard all the 
 summer to raise what his stock will need to eat through 
 
524 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 the winter. A fortnight's feed usually suffices for tlie 
 wintcrinf^ of cattle. 
 
 The following tables show the comparative mean tem- 
 peratures of three points in Oregon, with four in other 
 States ; also the number of rainy days in Oregon and Illi- 
 nois, respectively : 
 
 ■■■■diV V. 
 
 Table I. — Shoicing Comparative Mean Temperatures. 
 
 Time. 
 
 a 
 
 a 
 o 
 fee 
 
 O 
 
 1 
 
 § 
 
 O 
 
 
 w 
 
 H 
 
 Q 
 
 'o 
 
 e 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 o 
 to 
 
 o 
 
 s 
 
 a 
 
 rt 
 
 02 
 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 5 
 
 Q 
 
 Years of Obstnration .... 
 
 n 
 
 1* 
 
 3J 
 
 11? 
 
 2 
 
 42.33 
 69.95 
 42.60 
 13.06 
 41.97 
 
 H 
 
 24 
 
 47.61 
 70.17 
 50.01 
 25.83 
 48.41 
 
 •'8 
 
 47.3Gi 
 71.42^ 
 50.34 i 
 25.8s 
 48.75 
 
 Spring Temperature 
 
 Summer " 
 
 Autumn " 
 
 Winter " 
 
 Whole Time " 
 
 51.16 
 61.36 
 53.55 
 42.43 
 52.13 
 
 52.19 
 67.13 
 5.S.41 
 39.27 
 53.00 
 
 53.00 
 70.36 
 52.21 
 35.59 
 52.79 
 
 51.34 
 72.51 
 53.38 
 29.80 
 51.76 
 
 59.97 
 71.08 
 64.36 
 52.29 
 61.93 
 
 The only point in Eastern Oregon, whose temperature 
 is exhibited in this table, is Dalles, which, situated as it 
 is, immediately at the base of the Cascade Mountains, 
 does not fairly reprr-sent the temperature of the extensive 
 valleys farther east, which constitute the agiicultural re 
 gion of that country. The summer, in most of those val- 
 leys, as well as on the table-lands, is much waraiov than at 
 the Dalies. The winter temperature, it will be obsi>rved, 
 is muc''! higher than that of other States in the ^me lati 
 tude, while that of the spring is nearly the same, and the 
 summer not quite so high. 
 
"^ t • T 
 
 SOIL, CLIMATE, BESOURCES. 
 
 525 
 
 suffices for the 
 
 ,' ,..u' 
 
 rative mean tem- 
 
 th four in other 
 
 Oregon and Illi- 
 
 nperaturen. 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 
 a i ;- '^ 
 
 3 
 
 s 
 
 1 
 
 Q 
 
 a 
 
 < 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 24 
 47.61 
 
 3i 
 47.36 
 
 2.33 
 
 .59.97 
 
 9.95 
 
 71.08 
 
 70.17 
 
 71.42 
 
 2.60 
 
 64.36 
 
 50.01 
 
 50.34 
 
 3.06 
 
 52.29 
 
 25.83 
 
 25.88 
 
 1.97 
 
 61.93 
 
 48.41 
 
 48.75 
 
 ose temperature 
 h, situated as it 
 mde Mountains, 
 of the extensive 
 
 agricultural re 
 ost of thow val- 
 
 warmov than at 
 ill l>e oKwH'ved, 
 u the ^me lati 
 « same, aud the 
 
 T.tui-E Jl.— Showing (he Number of Rainy Days during the Winter, nt Astoria, 
 Oirtjon, Widlaintt Vallrij, On-gou, and Peoria, Illinois, respectively. 
 
 Month. 
 
 ^ Xuvcmbcr . . . 
 I Ui'cember . . . 
 
 Jaiiiiiiry .... 
 
 February . . . 
 
 Total 
 
 Astoria, Oregon. 
 
 vull^v. c).! ^ *■"'•"'• '"• 
 
 1857-8 
 
 1858-9 
 
 J 859-60 
 
 1856-7 
 
 1856-7 
 
 1857-8 
 
 21 
 
 16 
 
 19 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 16 
 
 25 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 17 
 
 70 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 72 
 
 69 
 
 43 
 
 83 
 
 37 
 
 This table includes all rainy days, without reference to 
 whether it rained all day, or only a part. It also includes 
 snowy days, very few of which are seen in Oregon, in an 
 
 ordinary winter. ,/•■,.-,•■•.■,-. -,■,., ;,.,.. ».. „,,...,,; .„r, ..,,...; 
 
 The climate of Oregon has proven to be a healthful one 
 (luring a thirty years' residence of some of the earliest 
 missionaries and settlers. So far as natural causes are con- 
 cerned, there appears to be none for the promotion of 
 disease, if we except the tendency to pulmonary and rheu- 
 matic diseases for which both California and Oregon are 
 famed, and which no doubt is to be credited to the cold 
 winds from the ocean. These winds in themselves are a 
 siinitary provision of nature, and servo to give the Pacific 
 coast a climate generally free from mia>5raatic and pestilen- 
 tial diseases ; but it is necessary for sensitive constitiitioiis 
 10 guard against the rapid change of temperature which 
 they effect when they come ."sweeping in from the sea, 
 ■suddonly displacing the warm air of the valleys. With 
 IMvper ca>\\ and attention to the most manifest laws of 
 he.iHh, the physical man has a bitter opportunity for mag- 
 nitioont development, on the Pacific cot.->t, than in any 
 other part of the Amer'oan continent 
 
 Whllo the wintei's of Western Oregon are dull 
 
62() 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 agreeable, the summers arc proportionately deliohifQl 
 The general temperature of tlie days is mild and a<Teea- 
 ])le, the air bright and clear, warmer in the aftornoons 
 than in the mornings, invariably ; yet falling again to an 
 invigorating coohiess in the evening. Sultriness is almost 
 never experienced in this part of Oregon. The greatest 
 heat of summer has not that enervating effect which the 
 summer-heats have in the Atlantic States. It is frequently 
 remarked by the farmers here that their cattle can cudure 
 to work right on under the hottest sun of summer with- 
 out showing signs of exhaustion, as they would have done 
 in those States from which they were brought. 
 
 From the peculiarities of the soil, seasons, and climate 
 of Western Oregon, it becomes necessary for the farmer 
 to practice modes of culture especially adapted to it, and 
 to conform to other seed-time than that he may have been 
 accustomed to in other States. Much can undoubtedly 
 be learned from old Oregon farmers ; but a careful obser- 
 vation from year to year, with a little judicious experi- 
 ment, will, we hope, develop among the newer settlers 
 a better manner of farming than that formerly practiced 
 in Oregon, when one year's cultivation was made to an- 
 swer for three years' crops— the two latter of which were 
 of course self-sown. , 
 
 While the yield of wheat is perhaps no greater than 
 that of the Genesee valley, or the rich prairies of Indiana 
 or southwestern Michigan, the crop is fnr more sure, from 
 the absence of insects, rust, winter-killing, etc. Perhaps 
 not more than twice since the ''ettlement of the W allamet 
 Valley has the wheat crop been injured by rain in harvest 
 time. As a genernl thing the straw is short and stout, and 
 ^ the grain is never laid down by summer tempests of wind 
 and rain. 
 
 Peas sown broadcast, with or without oats, bring a pro- 
 
SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES. 
 
 527 
 
 •iiatcly delightful. 
 3 mild and agroea- 
 in the afternoons 
 ailing again to an 
 yultriness is almost 
 ■on. The greatest 
 g effect which the 
 5. It is frequently 
 ' cattle can endure 
 1 of summer with- 
 ■ would have done 
 rough t. 
 
 lasons, and chmate 
 uy for the farmer 
 adapted to it, and 
 he may have been 
 
 can undoubtedly 
 ut a careful obser- 
 
 judicious experi- 
 he newer settlers 
 brmerly practiced 
 
 was made to an- 
 
 er of which were 
 
 no greater than 
 )rairies of Indiana 
 ir more sure, from 
 ng, etc. Perhaps 
 t of the "W allamet 
 by rain in harvest 
 ort and stout, and 
 tempests of wind 
 
 (I'.ict about equal to wheat; and are the best crop for fat- 
 •, iiiuf hogs, rcquiri;ig little labor, and producing a fine 
 (Hiality of pork by turning the hogs into the field in the 
 fall and letting t^era fatten there. Bacon brings a high 
 price in the mines, and is one of the most valuable posses- 
 sions of the farmer. The rapid increase of sheep in Ore- 
 iron gives the sheep-raiser a large surplus every year 
 above what he can afford to keep for their wool, and of 
 this surplus quite a number every year may be sold for 
 mutton at home, or driven to the mines, where they com- 
 mand a good price. 
 
 The whole country west of the Rocky Mountains is fa- 
 vorably adapted to fruit-growing, and no portion of it 
 more so than Western Oregon. Trees of three years' 
 srrowth bend to the earth under their burdens of fruit. 
 Before the tree matures its strength it bears at a rate so 
 wonderful that without artificial support the branches split 
 away from the main tree. Apple trees less than two 
 Inches in diameter, with branches no mor# than three- 
 quarters of an inch in thickness are so crowded with ap- 
 ples as to leave very little of the stock visible. We have 
 counted forty large apples on a limb of the thickness 
 mentioned above, and no more than four feet and a half 
 long, — a mere rod. Plum and pear trees bear in the san.o 
 manner. Cherries are equally prolific, but peaches sel- 
 dom crowd the tree in Western Oregon, though they do 
 in Eastern Oregon. Probably the best treatraent to give 
 young fruit trees in Oregon would be to pull off the great- 
 er portion of the fruit for the first year or two in order 
 that the trees might mature their strength. No d(^ubt it 
 would also add to the flavor of the fruit, though that 
 seems to be alwaya excellent. 
 
 oats, bring a pro- 
 
 " Wild iH'iries are very abundant, some of tvIuc4 arc |K*ouliarI} delicious. 
 Till' bcn-ius are strawburriotf, di'wberrios, whortMbttma, stUlulberries, block aud 
 
528 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 I 
 
 yellow raspberries, gooseberries, juneberrios, and cranbemes. The cranlxTrii 
 are good, but found in abundance only in the vicinity ol'tlie ocean ; tlie june stl 
 mon, and gooseberries are not particularly desirable ; the dew, sallal, and ra<' 
 berries are choice, and ((uite abinidant ; and the straw and whortleberries an 
 c^^'•('lp■.•]y abundant and delicious. The ))rairies may be truly said to be lite 
 ally red with strawberries, and the timbered openings blue with whortloberrii 
 in their season. The season of ri[)e strawbtirries is froni three to six wwk 
 and that of whortleberries irom six to ten weeks. The whortleberry busli, 
 except in the mountains, like the Unipqua plnm shrub, is >/orne prostrate nm 
 the earth's grassy covering, from the weight of its delicious fruit. The wil 
 strawberry of Oregon is larger and better than any we have ever seen, cxcoiii 
 the largest of the large garden cultivated E iglish strawberry, nie whortlt- 
 berry has more acidity than those of unshaded growth, growing east of tk 
 mountains. English gooseberries and currants are cultivated here with suc- 
 cess." 
 
 The native grasses of Western Oregon are blue-gra:5,s, 
 and red and white clover. The grass formerly grew very 
 tall on the prairies but has been so much eaten off and 
 trampled out by numerous herds of cattle, that it is now 
 much shorter. When sown in favorable situations, time 
 thy will grow to a height of between five and six feet. 
 
 The timbtir of Western Oregon consists of pine, fir, 
 cedar, oak, spruce, hemlock, cotton-wood, cherry, and 
 maple. Probably there is no country in the world where 
 timber grows so strikingly straight and beautiful, and to 
 such gigantic altitude and dimensions as in Oregon. Two 
 hundred feet is but a moderate height for the growth of 
 firs, cedars, and spruce, and they frequently attain a mucl 
 greater altitude. We have seen elder growing in Oregon 
 three feet in circumference, and hazel thirty inches in cir- 
 cumference, and of the height of forty feet. Black alder 
 and a species of laurel grow to what would be termed, in 
 most countries, large trees — logs of alder have been ob 
 tained thirty-two inches in diameter, and of the laurel 
 four feet in dinmeter. In Western Oregon groves of tini 
 ber are found skirting and separating prairies ; but the 
 immense timber districts are mainly confined to the neigh- 
 
BOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES. 
 
 529 
 
 borliood of the const of the Pacific, to the Coast, Cascade 
 niid Blue ranges of mountains, and the immediate vicinity 
 of the rivers. 
 
 The fir is seen almost solely on the western slope of the 
 Cascade Mountains, along the Columbia River from where 
 it breaks through that range until it passes through the 
 coast range, on the eastern slope of the Coast Mountains, 
 and along the rivers and upon the mountains almost any 
 where between the summits of these two principal ranges. 
 It is everywhere slightly mixed with spruce, hemlock, 
 cedar, and yew. The pine is generally found in ridges or 
 patches by itself, except on the west side of the Coast 
 range where it grows with hemlock, spruce, and cedar. 
 WiHow grows along all tht st-f^ams, and acquires consid- 
 erable size. Ash, oak, maple, cotton-wood, and alder also 
 grow wherever the ground is low and moist. 
 
 The shrubbery of Oregon is very beautiful and in great 
 variety. There are several varieties of alder, bearing, 
 sever , light purple, scarlet and orange colored berries. 
 The , Id cherry is a light and graceful tree, having a 
 small, clear scarlet fruit, that is very beautiful, and ex- 
 ceedingly bitter. The tree-whortlebv^rry has a very dimin- 
 utive leaf, almost round, and a small crimson berry tasting 
 much like a barberry. There are two smaller whortle- 
 berry shrubs corresponding to those of the Atlantic States, 
 called swamp and mountain whortleberries. There are 
 several varieties of wild cun-ants, one of which is useless 
 as a fruit, but is most beautiful as a flowering shrub. 
 White spir3a, and golden honeysuckle thrust their white 
 or golden blossoms through every thicket, and with the 
 white syringa and wild rose, festoon the rivtr banks and 
 hill sides until they seem one bed of bloom. The hand- 
 some shrubbery, and the abundant wild flowers of Oregon, 
 atone greatly for the want of greater variety in the forest 
 
 m 
 
530 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 tints ; and the case with which flowers may be cuUivated 
 for the adornment of homes is one of the greatest recom- 
 mciuhitions of the climate. Nature has been lavish, though 
 man may be indilferent. If ever a wilderness might be 
 made to blossom as the rose, that wilderness is Oregon. 
 Few of the old settlers of Oregon have cared, however, 
 to take advantage of the facilities allbrded them for beau- 
 tifying tlieir homesteads, and it is more common to find a 
 house without garden or shrubbery than with either; a 
 peculiarity as strange as it is inexcusable. 
 
 Though Western Oregon is especially adapted to agri- 
 cultural and pastoral pursuits, the present indications of 
 mineral wealth make it almost certain that the miner's 
 pick, as well as the farmer's plow, must furrow the face of 
 mother Earth, west of the Cascade Mountains. This dis- 
 covery was not sought after by the people of Oregon, who 
 were firmly fixed in their belief that it was as an agricul- 
 tural and manufacturing State that they were to achieve 
 their highest destiny. But when gold and silver, iron, 
 coal, and copper, are knocking for admittance as State re- 
 sources, they cannot and will not be denied. They will 
 be accepted as aids to manufactures and commerce ; and 
 will be taken in connection with forests of splendid tim- 
 ber and rivers of unfailing water-power, as the means by 
 which Oregon is to acquire her future status as one of the 
 most importan States of the ^^nion. 
 
 Since the yl )eated tests by which the Santiam gold- 
 bearing quartz has been found to yield $160 to the ton, 
 other discoveries have been nnide, and will continue to be 
 made in the Cascade Mountains. Already the mining 
 town of Quartzville has started up in the Santiam district, 
 and another town called Copperopolis, about .ten miles to 
 the southeast has sprung into existence near the copper 
 mines. Discoveries of gold have recently been made in 
 
 .1 
 
 :-^..t» 
 
BOIL, CLIMATE, lUIHOUUt'ES, 
 
 r)3i 
 
 Clackamas County; but as no actual tost has yet boon 
 miide of the (quality of tho ores, wo cannot spoak of their 
 value. 
 
 It is sufficient to say that enough is known of the min- 
 eral resources of Western Oregon to warrant the invest- 
 nu'iit of large amounts of capital ; and that discoveries 
 have only just begun to be made. 
 
 As to the price of farming lands in the Wallamot valley, 
 they vary from three to fifteen dollars, including imi)rove- 
 iiiciits. Many excellent farms may be had at from three 
 to five dollars per acre ; the owners selling out in order 
 ♦to remove with their children into towns, where they can 
 bo educated. These lauds in a few years will be worth 
 fifty dollars per acre, and we trust it will not be long be- 
 fore the population will be sufficiently dense to insure 
 good schools throughout the State. The Oregon Central 
 Railroad, now in course of construction, will do much to 
 bring out the resources of the interior, and the time is not 
 fli'itaut when lands in Western Oregon will bring a high 
 price. 
 
 Sheep-raising and Manufacture of 'Woolen Goods. Wm. 
 Lair Hill, in his prize essay, read before the Oregon State 
 Fair, for 1862, says: — 
 
 A. " 
 
 " If Orof;on has a specialty, it is her pre-eminence as a wool-f!;rowing coun- 
 trj-. Until recently, very little attention has been paid to the matter of sheep- 
 raising ; but it has now become one of the staple interests of the State. Sheep 
 tlirive better here than in any other State. Disease amongst them is exceed- 
 inirly rare, lliey increase here faster than in the east, and the wool is of ex- 
 cellent quality." 
 
 Tn a similar essay, read before the Oregon State Fair 
 lor 1863, by John Minto, Esq., the following passages oc- 
 cur: — • 
 
 " For the health of sheep, dry upland pasture is necessary. Taking the whole 
 of Oregon into view, nine-tenths of the State may be pronounced of that char- 
 

 WESTERN OUEGON. 
 
 I: 
 
 t 
 
 M 
 
 ■ r 
 
 actor. For xhv. focdinf; nf sheep for wool-riiisin^ piirpows, short swoet grasw 5 
 and open wiKxlhind pii.Hturcs are deeiiieil best ; and lull ihree-loiirths of'tlicfuir. 
 liicc of the iStiile is eoniposeil of hills and plains jielilinjj; sneh gnisat's- anil a 
 hirire portion of it is open woodland. Tor tlie j;rowth of a long, even, stroiw 
 ami Hi'xilile staple of wool, a mild, even eliniate (with proper feeding) is con. 
 Bidered l)csf, and tliat ()re<;(jn possesses in a remarkable degree. In fact, the 
 climate and natural grasses of Oregon seem to be a natural coniljination of the 
 peeuliarities of England anil Spain, in those partieulars, I'speeially the climate 
 
 " Over twenty years ago, Mr. l'»uile, a natm-alist who aecompaniid Connnwlorc 
 Wilkes' expedition to this eoast gave it as liis opinion that 'the country miwW 
 lMM;ome famous for its jjrodueticjn of fine wool,' tor the reason that ' the evcnniss 
 of the climate enables tho fur-bearing animals found here to carry their fmi! 
 cov(!ring during the summer months, whereas nmler greater variations between 
 the seasons, the same animals usually shed their furs, or they become mixed 
 with hair during stnumiir;' aiul for the fin'ther reason that the 'j)hysical gcoiTa- 
 pliy and natural grasses of tho country nuike it a natural sheep pasture.' f 
 
 "Experience goes far to show Mr. Peale's opinion correct. In a convem- 
 tion betwetai the writer and Mr. Henry I'erkins, Chief Wool Stapler in the 
 woolen factory at Sali'm, (a gentleman who has IukI a large and varied experi- 
 ence in assorting wool,) the latter said that he had never handled tlie wool from 
 any country, which as a whole, was equal to that of Oregon as a combing wool; 
 and that during a term of three years as wool stapler in a De Laine factory in 
 Boston, Ma.-s., he deemed that he did well when he could get from the bulk as- 
 sorted 30 per cent, of wool fit for combing and manufacturing into that fahric, 
 Of the wool he was then receiving — the crop of 1863, as it came in indis- 
 criminately — Mr. P. said he could get from TjO to 60 per cent, of good combing 
 •wool. lie further said if wools were projjcrly assorted here and the combinj 
 portion graded and baled and marked according to its quality, and shipped to 
 New Yor!f or Boston, it would soon draw the attention of De Laine manufac- 
 turers to this country as a source of sui)i)ly for this most valuable kind of wool, 
 We have further practical proof of the superiority of Oregon wool, in tlie fact 
 that San Francisco papers as late as July last, quoted Oregon wool as selling 
 three cents per pound above California wool sold on the same day. 
 
 " The fact of the superiority of Oregon wool is an encouraging circumstance 
 to those engaged, or about to engage in raising it. But they will never reap 
 tlio full benefit of it so long as they allow the business men of California to put 
 their crops into market : so long as this is the case, the fact will be used to 
 spread the fame of California, as a wool-producing country, and so long ivili 
 Oregon dwell in the shadow of Calitbrnia, and feel the blighting influence. 
 This is the inevitable result, even without any effort on the part of California 
 merchants. It gees from their port in their shipping mart ; the buyer cares 
 no more but to know that he is receiving a good article for his money, and 
 it would be too much to expect the California merchant to inform his customer 
 that it was tlie product of another state. * * * 
 
 " Tho success of the woolen manufactory at Salem, started under more ad- 
 Terse circumstances than, it is believed, will ever again exist on this coast, g 
 
NATl'IlAL WKALTII AND UKSOCHCKS. 
 
 C)Xi 
 
 ,|,,iw ]il.ii'ily tliat ii Dc I.niiii' factory would be I'liiiiK-iilly sucffHsfiil licro wluTO 
 ■uili j;( Kills iiri! worn (liroujiho.it tin- yi-ar.* 
 
 "Anil lli'Tii is no doubt tliiit ihcrt! is iiiuny n farmer in tlu' Miildlc and WuHt- 
 ,111 Stalls, who, worn down by tlif di'liilitatin},' inlliu-ncci of niiasnialii' rliniati't*, 
 Koiijil <;<■( a ni-w K-asu of litii by »lianj,'inj,' liis liH'ation and bi-coniin;; a »\ivv\)- 
 nwr under tlie clear (tkies and pure air of Kast^'rn Orejion. • • » • • 
 
 •Tlitrt' are at presmt more prondsinj; indnci'nicnl.s for the ()rtp)n farmer to 
 mill his attention to the raisiii}; of sheep and wool (where liis lands are of ii 
 ;iiii;il)le kind,) than any other branch of farminjj;, tor tlie reasonM : Ist. That 
 ill that (Hiui»ation the farmer can {^et alon^ with lesH hired hel|>, which is al- 
 ways hard to j?et of a relialile kind, and will continue to be, so Ion;; as the dis- 
 covery of Mi^w gold miiu's continues. 2d. Sheej) eat nearer to the ground and 
 a jircater variety of plants, and consocpiently retpiire less labor in providing 
 llicm food than any oilier domestic animal which yields anylhini; like the ro- 
 lurii wliicli they yield. 3d. There are two products li-om nhetp, tor either of 
 which there is a greater prospective market than lor any other farm product 
 we can raise. AVe liave already glanced at tlie condition of the marki't with re- 
 (;aril to wool. ' It is the only thing raised by the farmers of Oregon that con- 
 tains enough valuer in proportion to its weight to bear the expense of transjior- 
 taiiou to the Atlantic States. It is the only product that cannot be raised 
 ilicaper in the Atlantic States than here. It is the only product of the soil of 
 ()iv;j;()n (gold excepted) which we can send to the Kastern seaboard in ex- 
 change for the clothing, boots and shoes, machinery, iron, etc., etc., which we 
 must buy there or elsewhere until we can build up manufiictures of our own.' 
 Ami manufactures we nnist have, unless we can contentedly remain utterly de- 
 poniient uf»on the manufacturing skill of other communities, subject to the in- 
 conveniences of interruption in time of war, and the always increasing cost of 
 transportation, which, as the producers of the raw material and cousinners of the 
 manufactured article, we must p.ay all the cost of, according to the amount of 
 our consum])ti()n. The market for good wool-bearing stock sheep is only to be 
 incasiurd by the extent of the country yet unoccupied and fit for grazing pur- 
 jioscs lying between the Pacific Ocean and the western base of the llociky 
 Jhtuntiiins. The market for mutton will be in accordance with the increase of 
 1 ; "lation; it car. be produced cheaper and will always sell higher than beef 
 until tiic country is glutted with wool-bearing flocks. 
 
 '•Ore;v)n lies on tlie western edge of an immense extent of country — reach- 
 ir ' iVoin Mexico to the British line ; from Kansas to the Pacific Ocean — which, 
 witli he exception of the belt between the Cascade Mountains and the ocean, 
 iDverod Ijy parts of California, Oregon, and Washington Territory, is fitted lor 
 j)a>toral pursuits only. She has within her own borders a large portion of tho 
 hc'st of that natural pasture. Within that, and almost surroimded by it, slio 
 lias the largest compact body of good wheat land on the Pacific slope ; which, 
 
 * Since the above was written a large factory at Oregon City has commenced 
 manufacturing de laines, and several kinds of cloths. ■• - ^ 
 
IHTUllBANCEa — TilK AGKNT MUIIDKIIKIX 
 
 portunity ;-ou^ht, and not an altoi 
 liem, by the politicians of that Tci 
 'as simply this. A party of lawless wi 
 I Country, passing over tho Cascade 
 fakirna Valley, on their way to the 
 3, found sonic Yakima women di<j^gin<j 
 30, and abused them. The women 
 id told the chiefs of the outrage ; and ii 
 lilty whites and killed several of the 
 
 le Indian sub-agent for Washingtoi 
 village, and instead of judging of th 
 de use of threats in the name of the I 
 [lent, saying that an army should be 
 Ir killing his people. On his return 
 lollowed and murdered. '■'" 
 lof an Indian agent was an act which 
 vcd. Very properly, the case shouk 
 ice of in a manner to convince the I 
 ist be punished. But, tempted by 
 ain, and encouraged by the somewh^ 
 f the white population of Washingt( 
 nor G. L. Curry, of the latter, at on( 
 d issued a call for volunteers, withou 
 ction or assistance of the general G 
 Dment this was done, it was too late 
 ls if a torch had been applied to a fi 
 simultaneously did the Indians from 
 )cky Mountains, and from the Rocky 
 thern boundary of Oregon send for 
 t there was much justification for the 
 the people, that a combination amo 
 en secretly agreed to, and that the 
 sxterminated. 
 
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 PhotDgraphic 
 
 Sciences 
 
 Corporation 
 
 73 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, NY. M580 
 
 (716) 872-4503 
 
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444 
 
 MEEK ASTONISHES THE NATIVES. 
 
 After a pause in which the old gentleman seemed to be 
 recovering from some great surprise, he requested to see 
 the credentials of this extraordinary envoy. Still more 
 surprised ho seemed on discovering for himself that the 
 personage before him was really a messenger from Orejron 
 to the government of the United States. But the eftect 
 was magical. In a moment the bell- rope was pulled, and 
 in an incredibly short space of time a coach stood at the 
 door ready to convey the waiting messenger on his way 
 to Washington. ■ i 7' .'jjiti r- 
 
 In the meantime in a conversation with the stage agent, 
 Meek had explained more fully the circumstances of his 
 mission, and the agent had become much interested. On 
 parting, Meek received a ticket to the Ilelay House, with 
 many expressions of regret from the agent that he could 
 ticket him no farther. 
 
 " But it is all the same," said he ; " you are sure to go 
 through." 
 
 " Or run a train oiF the track," rejoined Meek, as he 
 was bowed out of the office. 
 
 It happened that there were some other passengers 
 waiting to take the first stage, and they crowded into this 
 one, glad of the unexpected opportunity, but wondering 
 at the queer looking passenger to v/hom the agent was so 
 polite. This scarcely concealed curiosity was all that was 
 needed to stimulate the mad-cap spirits of our so far "con- 
 quering hero." Putting his head out of the window just 
 at the moment of starting, he electrified everybody, 
 horses included, by the utterance of a war-whoop and yell 
 that would have done credit to a wild Camanche. Satis 
 fied with the speed to which this demoniac noise had ex- 
 cited the driver's prancing steeds, he quietly ensconced 
 himself in his corner of the coach and waited for his fel- 
 low passengers to recover from their stunned sensations. 
 
THE VICTEilZED CONDUCTOR. 
 
 445. 
 
 When their complete recovery had been eircctcd, tliere 
 followed the usual questioning and explanations, which 
 ended in the inevitable lionizing that was so much to the 
 i;i4e of this sensational individual. 
 
 Oil the cars at Cumberland, and at the eating-houses, 
 the messenger from Oregon kept up his sensational char- 
 acter, indulging in alternate fits of mountain manners, and 
 airiiin assuming a disproportionate amount of grandeur ; 
 but in either view proving himself very amusing. By the 
 time the train reached the Relay House, many of the pas- 
 sengers had become acquainted with Meek, and were pre- 
 pared to understand and enjoy each new phase of his 
 many-sided comicality. • ■ ' • •. . . 
 
 The ticket with which the stage agent presented him, 
 (lead-headed him only to this point. Here again he must 
 make his poverty a jest, and joke himself through to 
 I'usliiiigton. Accordingly when the conductor came 
 tluough the car in which he, with several of his new 
 aci[uaintances were sitting, demanding tickets, he was 
 obliged to tap his blanketed passenger on the shoulder 
 to attract his attention to the " ticket, sir !" 
 
 '•//'( Ico any me ca^ hanch ^^^ said Meek, starting up 
 and addressing him in the Snake tongue. 
 
 "Ticket, sir!" repeated the conductor, staring. 
 
 " Ka hum pa, hatich f returned Meek, assuming a look 
 which indicated that English was as puzzling to him, as 
 Snake to other people. 
 
 Finding that his time would be wasted on this singular 
 passenger, the conductor went on through the train ; re- 
 tinning after a time with a fresh demand for his ticket. 
 But Meek sustained his character admirably, and it was 
 only through the excessive amusement of the passengers 
 that the conductor suspected that he was being made the 
 'Hibject of a practical joke. At this stage of affairs it was 
 
 
 W. 
 
44G 
 
 ARRIVAL AT WASHINGTON 
 
 privately explained to him who and what his waggish cus- 
 tomer was, and tickets were no more mentioned durini; 
 the journey. 
 
 On the arrival of the train at Washington, the heart of 
 our hero became for a brief moment of time " very httle,' 
 He felt that the importance of his mission demanded some 
 dignity of appearance — some conformity to establislied 
 rules and precedents. But of the latter he knew abso- 
 lutely nothing ; and concerning the former, he realized 
 the absurdity of a dignitary clothed in blankets and a 
 wolf-skin cap. ' Joe Meek I must remain,' said he to him- 
 self, as he stepped out of the train, and glanced along the 
 platform at the crowd of porters with the names of their 
 hotels on their hat-bands. Learning from inquiry that 
 Coleman's was the most fashionable place, he decided that 
 to Coleman's he would go, judging correctly that it was 
 best to show no littleness of heart even in the matter af 
 hotels. 
 
 1 
 
 
THE DINNER AT COLEMAN's. 
 
 447 
 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 in 
 
 1848. When Meek arrived at Coleman's it was the 
 dinner hour, and following the crowd to the dining saloon, 
 he took the first seat he came to, not without being very- 
 much stared at. He had taken his cue and the staring 
 was not unexpected, consequently not so embarrassing as 
 it might otherwise have been. A bill of fare was laid be- 
 side his plate. Turning to the colored waiter who placed 
 it there, he startled him first by inquiring in a low growl- 
 ing voice — ,., -^ ,i .^>.-^l. 
 " What's that boy ?" » :..:v. 
 "Bill of fare, sah," replied the "boy," who recognized 
 the Southerner in the use of that one word, 
 
 "Read!" growled Meek again. "The people in my 
 country can't read." 
 
 Though taken by surprise, the waiter, politely obedient, 
 proceeded to enumerate the courses on the bill of fare. 
 
 When he came to game 
 
 "Stop thar, boy!" commanded Meek, "what kind of 
 game ?" 
 "Small game, sah." 
 
 " Fetch me a piece of antelope," leaning back in his 
 
 chair with a look of satisfaction on his face. 
 
 " Got none of that sah ; don't know what that ar' sah." 
 
 "Don't know!" with a look of pretended surprise. "In 
 
 ray country antelope and deer ar' small game ; bear and 
 
 bulTalo ar' large game. I reckon if you haven't got one, 
 
 20 
 
418 
 
 THE MESSENGER CREATES A SEXSATION. 
 
 i 1 
 
 you liavn't got the other, either. In that case you may 
 fetch me some beef." 
 
 The waiter disappeared grinning, and soon returned with 
 the customary thin and small cdt, which Meek eyed at first 
 contemptuously, and then accepting it ii) the light of a 
 sample swallowed it at two mouthfuls, returning his plate 
 to the waiter with an approving smile, and saying loud 
 enough to be overheard by a score of people 
 
 " Boy, that will do. Fetch me about four pounds of the 
 same kind." . . 
 
 By this time the blanketed beef-eater was the recipient 
 of general attention, and the "boy" who served him com- 
 prehending with that quickness which distinguishes ser- 
 vants, that he had no ordinary backwoodsman to deal with, 
 was all the time on the aJert to make himself useful. Peo- 
 ple stared, then smiled, then asked each other " who is it?" 
 loud enough for the stranger to hear. Meek looked nei- 
 ther to the right nor to the left, pretending not to hear 
 the whispering. When he had finished his beef, he again 
 addressed himself to the attentive " boy." 
 
 " That's better meat than the old mule I eat in the moun- 
 tains." 
 
 Upon this remark the whispering became more general, 
 and louder, and smiles more frequent. 
 
 " What have you got to drink, boy?" continued Meek, 
 still unconscious. " Isn't there a sort of wine called— 
 some kind of pain ?" 
 
 " Champagne, sah ?" 
 
 " That's the stuff, I reckon ; bring me some." 
 
 While Meek drank his champagne, with an occasional 
 aside to his faithful attendant, people laughed and won- 
 dered " who the devil it was." At length, having finished 
 his wine, and overhearing many open inquiries as to his 
 identity, the hero of many bear-fights slowly arose, and 
 
RECOGXIZKI) HV SKNATOIl UXDKRWOOD. 
 
 449 
 
 case you may 
 
 eat in the moun- 
 
 addressing the company through the beforc-incntioiicd 
 "boy," said: 
 
 " You want to know who I am ?" 
 
 "If you please, sah ; yes, if you please, sah, for the 
 siike of these gentlemen present," replied the " boy," an- 
 swering for the company. 
 
 "Wall then," proclaimed Meek with a grandiloquent 
 air quite at variance with his blanket coat and unkempt 
 hair, yet which displayed his fine person to advantage, "I 
 am Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary from 
 the Republic of Oregon to the Court of the United 
 States!" 
 
 With that he turned and strode from the room. He 
 had not proceeded far, however, before he was overtaken 
 by a party of gentlemen in pursuit. Senator Underwood 
 of Kentucky immediately introduced himself, calling the 
 envoy by name, for the dispatch from St. Louis had pre- 
 pared the President and the Senate for Meek's appearance 
 in Washington, though it had not advised them of his 
 style of dress and address. Other gentlemen were intro- 
 duced, and questions followed questions in rapid succes- 
 sion. "''''"■ .■'' 
 
 When curiosity was somewhat abated, Meek expressed 
 a wish to see the President without delay. To Under- 
 wood's question as to whether he did not wish to make his 
 toilet before visiting the White House, his reply was, 
 "business first, and toilet afterwards." 
 
 "But," said Underwood, "even your business can wait 
 long enough for that." 
 
 " No, that's your mistake. Senator, and Til tell you why : 
 I can't dress, for two reasons, both good ones. I've not 
 got a cent of money, nor a second suit of clothes." 
 
 The generous Kentuckian offered to remove the first of 
 
 4 
 
 m 
 
 ifcf 
 
450 
 
 VISIT TO THE WHITE HOUSE. 
 
 : *>'^. 
 
 the ()l)jcctions on the spot, but Meek declined. "I'll see 
 the President first, and hear what he has to say about my 
 mission." Then calling a coach from the stand, he spran;; 
 into it, answering the driver's question of where he would 
 be taken, with another inquiry. 
 
 " Whar should a man of my style want to go? — to the 
 White House, of course!" and so was driven away amid 
 the general laughter of the gentlemen in the portico at 
 Coleman's, who had rather doubted his intention to pay 
 his respects to the President in his dirty blankets. 
 
 He was admitted to the Presidential mansion by a mu- 
 latto of about his own age, with whom he remembered 
 playing w^hen a lad, for it must be remembered that the 
 Me(3ks and Polks were related, and this servant had grown 
 up in the family. On inquiring if he could see the Presi- 
 dent, he was directed to the office of the private Secretary, 
 Knox Walker, also a relative of Meek's on the mother's 
 side. 
 
 On entering he found the room filled with gentlemen 
 waiting to see the President, each when his turn to be ad- 
 mitted should arrive. The Secretary sat reading a paper, 
 over the top of which he glanced but once at the new 
 comer, to ask him to be seated. But Meek was not in the 
 humor for sitting. He had not traveled express for more 
 than two months, in storm and cold, on foot and on horse- 
 back, by day and by night, with or without food, as it 
 chanced, to sit down quietly now and wait. So he took a 
 few turns up and down the room, and seeing that the 
 Secretary glanced at him a little curiously, stopped and 
 Sjaid: K . 
 
 k "I should like to see the President immediately. Just 
 tell him if you please that there is a gentleman from Ore- 
 gon waiting to see him on very important business." 
 
 ^if^' 
 
 ^:0.' .iJi.Lvj; .>;uf ilOJ, 
 
1 
 
 INTEUVIEW WITH I'KE.SIDENT I'OLK. 
 
 451 
 
 At tlio word Orr.fjnn, the Secretary s[)rinig up, diislicd 
 his paper to the ground, and crying out "Uncle Joe!" 
 Clinic forward with botli liands extended to greet his long 
 lost relative. 
 
 "Take care, Knox! don't come too close," Raid Meek 
 stojjpiiig back, "I'm ragged, dirty, and — lousy." 
 
 But Walker seized his cousin's hand, without seeming 
 fear of the consequences, and for a few moments there 
 was an animated exchange of questions and answers, which 
 Meek at last interrupted to repeat his request to be admit- 
 ted to the President without delay. Several times the Sec- 
 retary turned to leave the room, but as often came back 
 with some fresh inquiry, until Meek fairly refused to say 
 another word, until he had delivered his dispatches. 
 
 When once the Secretary got away he soon returned 
 v.itli a request from the President for the appearance of 
 t!ie Oregon messenger, all other visitors being dismissed 
 for that day. Polk's reception proved as cordial as Wtilk- 
 
 ii- r 
 
 
 •'■is 
 
 
452 INTRODUCED TO THE LADIES DADLY FUIGIITENED. 
 
 
 
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 M 
 
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 ^^W''' ' 
 
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 « 
 
 er's had been. He seized the hand of Iiia newly found 
 relative, and welcomed him in his own name, us well us 
 that of messenger from the distant, much loved, and loii" 
 neglected Oregon. The interview lasted for a couple of 
 hours. Oregon affairs and family alfairs were talked over 
 together; the President promising to do all for Oregon 
 that he could do ; at the same time he bade Meek make 
 himself at home in the Presidential mansion, with true 
 southern hospitality. 
 
 But Meek, although he had carried off his poverty and 
 all his deficiencies in so brave a style hitherto, felt his as- 
 surance leaving him, when, his errand 2)erformed, he stood- 
 in the presence of rank and elegance, a mere mountain- 
 man in ragged blankets, whose only wealth consisted of 
 an order for five hundred dollars on the Methodist mission 
 in New York, unavailable for present emergencies. And 
 so he declined the hospitalities of the White House, say 
 ing he "could make himself at home in an Indian wigwam 
 in Oregon, or among the Rocky Mountains, but in the 
 residence of the chief magistrate of a great nation, he felt 
 out of place, and ill at ease." ' r , 
 
 Polk, however, would listen to no refusal, and still fur- 
 ther abashed his Oregon cousin by sending for Mrs. Polk 
 and Mrs. Walker, to make his acquaintance. Says Meek: 
 
 "When I heard the silks rustling in the passage, I felt 
 
 more frightened than if a hundred Elackfeet had whooped 
 
 in my ear. A mist came over my eyes, and when Mrs. 
 
 i Polk spoke to me I couldn't think of anything to say in 
 
 return." 
 ^* But the ladies were so kind and courteous that he soon 
 ' began to see a little, though not quite plainly while their 
 visit lasted. Before the interview with the President and 
 his family was ended, the poverty of the Oregon envoy 
 became known, which led to the immediate supplying of 
 
T • '^'T '(3 
 
 UIGIITENED. 
 
 THE TWO OREflON REPRESENTATIVES. 
 
 453 
 
 ision, with true 
 
 all his wants. Major Polk was called in ami introduced ; 
 ftiid to him was deputed the business of seeing Meek 
 "fot up" in a style creditable to himself and his relations. 
 Meek avers that when he had gone through the hands of 
 thol)arbcr and tailor, and surveyed himself in a full length 
 mirror, he was at first rather embarrassed, Ix'ing under the 
 impression that ho was being introduced to a fashionable 
 and decidedly good-looking gentleman, before whose over. 
 j)()\vcring style he was disposed to shrink, with the old fa- 
 miliar feeling of being in blankets. 
 
 But Meek was not the sort of man to bo long in getting 
 used to a situation however novel or difficult. In a very 
 short time he was au fait in the customs of the capital. 
 Ilis perfect frankness led people to laugh at his errors as 
 eccentricities ; his good looks and natural honltomie pro- 
 cured him plenty of admirers ; while his position at the 
 White House caused him to be envied and lionized at 
 once. 
 
 On the day following his arrival the President sent in a 
 message to Congress accompanied by the memorial from 
 the Oregon legislature and other documents appertaining 
 to the Oregon cause. Meek was introduced to Benton, 
 Oregon's indefatigable friend, and received from hira the 
 kindest treatment ; also to Dallas, President of the Senate ; 
 Douglas, Fremont, Gen. Houston, and all the men who 
 had identified themselves with the interests of the West. 
 
 It will be remembered that only a short time previous 
 to the Waiilatpu massacre a delegate had left Oregon for 
 Washington, by ship around Cape Horn, who had been 
 accredited by the governor of the colony only, and that 
 the legislature had subsequently passed resolutions expres- 
 sive of their disapproval of "secret factions," by which 
 was meant the mission party, whose delegate Mr. Thorn- 
 ton was. 
 
 I . \ 
 
 %.\ 
 
 i 
 
454 
 
 THE OULUON 15ILL IN TIIK SliNATB. 
 
 } 
 
 1 
 
 V 
 
 ' ;ia 
 
 r-- 
 
 '"'"■ 
 
 i 
 
 '^-.S 
 
 It so hnpponod that, by rcascni of the commander of tlie 
 Porfmaontli having assuinod it to be a duty to cc)nvcy Mr. 
 Tlioriitou IVoi)' La Paz, where through the iiifidehty of tlio 
 Captain of the Whiftou., he was stranded, he was eimblud 
 to reaeli the States early in the Spring, arriving in facta 
 week or two before Meek reached Washington. Thus 
 Oregon had two representatives, althougli not entitled to 
 any : nor had either a right to a seat in either House; yd 
 to one this courtesy was granted, while the two togetlier 
 controlled more powerful influences than were ever before 
 or since brought to bear on the fate of any single terri- 
 tory of the United States. While Mr. Thornton sat air ig 
 Senators as a sort of consulting member or referee, but 
 without a vote; Meek had the private ear of the Presi- 
 dent, and mingled freely among members of both Houses, 
 in a social character, thereby exercising a more immediate 
 influence than his more learned coadjutor. Happily their 
 aims were not dissimilar, although their characters were; 
 and the proper and prudish mission delegate, though he 
 might often be shocked by the private follies of the legis- 
 lative messenger from Oregon, could find no fault with the 
 manner in which he discharged his duty to their common 
 country. 
 
 The bill to admit Oregon as a tei-ritory which had been 
 so long before Congress, and failed only because certain 
 southern Senators insisted on an amendment allowing slave 
 property to be introduced into that territory^, was again 
 under discussion in the Senate. The following extract 
 from a speech of Benton's, delivered May 31st, before the 
 Senate, shows how his energies were taxed in support of 
 the Oregon cause — a cause which he had fostered from its 
 infancy, and which he never deserted until • his eiforts to 
 extend the United States government to ^ he Pacific Onean 
 were crowned with success : — "- 
 
EXTUACT FROM HLNTON's OUEOON Sl'EEClI. 
 
 455 
 
 11 
 
 " Only three or four yean jiro, the whole United 8tftt«'8 Heemed to Iw in- 
 llaim il with ii ilcsin' to jjet pofisesnion of On'f^on. It wuh one of tlic al»m)rl)iM;j 
 iiiiil ii;.'itatiii}5 qiu'stiorm of the oontiiicnt. To ohtiiin l•X(•hl^*ive poHses.sioii of 
 ()ri';;('ii, till" {^reiiteot eil'orts were made, and it wa« at length ol)tain«'<l. W'liat 
 nixt? At>t'r this nctiiiil orciipution of the entire eontincnt, and havinj^ thus 
 (ilitiiiiu'il cxcliiMke jioHftession of On-^on in order that we nii^d'l ^iovirn it, we 
 li;ivc seen cession atU-r session of Conjjniss pass away witlumt a sin-^ie tliiiij; 
 iiiiii;; done tiir the ^^overninent of a country, to obtain posBcssion of which wo 
 were wiiliiij; to fjo to war with Kuj^fhind I 
 
 Year ath^r year, and s«'Ssion aller session have gon by, ond to this day the 
 l;i\v(i of the United States have not b'jcn extended over that Territory. In tho 
 iiuaii lime, a <;reat connnunity is ^rowin^ up . ere, « nijosetl jit tliis time of 
 tKcIve tliousand souls — persons from all parih of the worl-', from Asia as well 
 thmi Europe an<l Amer'ea — and whiih, till this ♦inie, have been jtreserved 
 in order by compact amon}; tnemselves. ♦^Jreat i librts havt* been maile to pre- 
 pcrvf order — most meritorious efforts, whieli ha\': evinced their anxiety to 
 maintain their own reputation and that of the country to wliicb they belon;^. 
 Tluir efforts have Ijcen eminently meritorious ; but we all kiujw ;)nt voluntary 
 ^(ivi'rnineiits cannot last — that they are temporary in their very nature, iind 
 iiiii.'t eni'Dimter rude shocks and resistance, under which they must fall. lie- 
 Miles the inconvenience resulting from the absence of an organi/(!d <,'overnment, 
 wi' are to recollect that thyre never yet has been a civilized settlement in terri- 
 tiny occiipietl by the aboriginal inhabitants, in which a war between the races 
 liaH not occurred. Down to the present moment, the settlers in Oregon had 
 escaped a conflict with tho Indians. Now the war between them is breaking 
 cut ; and I cannot resist tho conviction, that if tliere had been a regularly or- 
 jrani/ed government in that country, nnmediately after tho treaty with Great 
 Britain, with a military force to sustain it, — for a government in such ^ region, 
 Forcnote, would be nothing without military force, — the calamities now im- 
 peiiiliag over that country might have been averted. 
 
 But no government was established ; and now all these evils are coming 
 upon these people, as everybody muat have foreseen they would come ; and in 
 the depth of winter, they send to us a special messenger, who makes his way 
 aemss the Rocky Mountains at a time when almost every living thing perished 
 in the snow — when the snow was at such a depth that nothing could |>enetrate 
 to tlie bottom of it. He made his way across, however, and brings these com- 
 plaints which we now hear. They arc in a suffering condition. Not a moment 
 of time is to Ijc lost. If the bill were passed this instant, — this morning, as 
 I hojM'd it would be, — it would refjuire tho utmost degree of vigor in the execu- 
 tion of it to be able to send troops across the itocky Mountains before tho sejt- 
 .«nn of di:ep snow. They should cross the mountains before the month of Sejj- 
 tomber. I was in hopes then, that on this occasion, there would be nothing to 
 delay action — that wo should all have united in deploring that for years the 
 Imposition to give these people government and laws has been defeated by the 
 introduction of a question of no practical -consequenco, but which has had tho 
 
 ■§■' 
 ■M" 
 
45G 
 
 EXTRACT FROM BENTON S OREGON SPEECH. 
 
 effect of depriving these people of all government, and bringing about the 
 massacres which have taken place, and in which the benevolent missionary has 
 fallen in the midst of his labors. All the calamities which have taken place in 
 that country have resulted from mixing up this question, which has not a par- 
 tide of practical value, with all the measures which have been introduced for 
 the organization of a government in Oregon. All the laws passed by the Con- 
 gress of the United States can have no effect on the question of slavery there. 
 In that country there is a law suj)erior to any which Congress can pass on the 
 sul)joct of slavery. There is a law of climate, of position, and of Nature her- 
 self, against it. Besides, the people of the country itself, by flir the largest 
 number of whom have gone out from slave-holding States, many of them from 
 the State of Missouri, in their organic law, communicated to Congress more 
 than a year ago, and printed among our documents at the last session, declare 
 that the law of nature is against slavery in that region. Who would think of 
 carrying slaves to the Lake of the Woods ? and what would anybody think of 
 a law of Congress which should say that slavery should or should not exist 
 there ? I was in hopes, then, that this bill would be allowed to pass throunh 
 this morning. And it was in order to avoid any delay that I did not make a 
 separate bill to raise the regiments nt.'cessary to sustain the government tliere, 
 I did hope, that on this occasion — when a great political measure of the hichest 
 importance is pending, which has been delayed for years, and which delay has 
 brought on the massacres of which we now hear — this question, which has 
 already produced these calamities, would not have been introduced, and that 
 some other opportunity would have been taken for its discussion. Tliere will 
 be opportunities enough for its discussion. The doors of legislation are open 
 to it as a separate measure. I trust, even now. that this question will not be 
 permitted to delay our action. The delay of a few days here will be the delay 
 of a year in Oregon. Delay at all now, is delay not for a week or a month, bnt 
 for a year, during all which time these calamities will continue. 
 m******mit* 
 With respect to the question itself, I am ready to meet it in every shape and 
 form. Let me here say, that no gentleman on this floor must assume to be the 
 representative of the fifteen slave-holding States. I assume to represent one- 
 no more than one — and if I can satisfy my constituents, my duty is performei'. 
 I invade no gentleman's bailiwick, and no one sh.all invade mine. Let every one 
 speak for himself. Tliis Federal Government was made for something else 
 than to have this pestiferous question constantly thrust upon us to the intemip- 
 tion of the most important business. I am willing to vote down this question 
 at this moment ; I am willing to take it up and act upon it in all its extent and 
 bearings, at the proper time, when its consideration will not interrupt andj 
 destroy important measures. What I protest against is, to have the real busi- 
 ness of the country — the pressing, urgent, crying business of the country- 
 stopped, prostrated, defeated, by thrusting this question ujjon us. We read in 
 Holy Writ, that a certain people were cursed by the plague of frogs, and that 
 the plague was everywhere. You could not look upon the table but there were 
 
WASniNOTON SOCIETY CURIOSITY OF LADIES. 
 
 457 
 
 fiozs ; V"" could not sit down at the banquet but there were frogs ; you could 
 not "0 to the bridal couch and lift the sheets but there were frogs ! We can 
 s'c iiutliinj;, touch nothing, have no meiisures proposed, without having this 
 pi'slileiKi; tlirust before us. Here it is, this black qtiostion, forever on the 
 table, on the nuptial couch — everywhere ! So it was not in the better days of 
 tlie K('ptil>lic'. I remember the time when no one would have thought of ask- 
 iiicr a public man what his views were on the extension of slavery, any more 
 than wliat was the length of his foot ; and those were happy days which, al- 
 though gone by, arc remembered, and may, perhaps, be brought liack. 
 
 Wc ought to vote down this amenduient as a thing which should not be 
 ailowid to interrupt our action. Our action ehoidd not be delayed a single 
 moment. This cruel war, which cannot continue in Oregon without extending 
 to California, must be stopped without delay. Oregon and California nuist be 
 ijavcd from the desolation of an Indian war. Whatever opinions may be en- 
 tirtainiil upon the subject of slavery, let us agree on this point, that we will 
 give law and government to the people of Oregon, and stop, if we can, the 
 proirivfis of this Indian war." _ , 
 
 ; .i'.'V. ^ ! ■.■■■- v I. "i -fi- ^v t -IV .... ...i ...i. 
 
 This Avas the tone which the friends of Oregon pre- 
 served through that last session of Congress in which the 
 Oregon bill was under discussion. 3^/3 x,^ 
 
 In the meantime our hero was making the most of his 
 advantages. He went to dinners and champagne su})pers, 
 besides giving an occasional one of the latter. At the 
 pi'osidential levees he made himself agreeable to witty and 
 distinguished ladies, answering innumerable questions 
 about Oregon and Indians, generally with a veil of reserve 
 between himself and the questioner whenever the inqui- 
 ries became, as tiiey sometimes would, disagreeably search- 
 iii;... Again the spirit of perversity and mischief led him 
 to make his answers so very direct as to startle or bewilder 
 the questioner. 
 
 On one occasion a lady with whom he was promenading 
 a drawing-room at some Senator's reception, admiring his 
 handsome physique perhaps, and wondering if any woman 
 owned it, finally ventured the question — was he married ? 
 
 "Yes, indeed," answered Meek, with emphasis, "I have 
 a wife and several children.." 
 
 
 li 
 
 m 
 
458 
 
 KIT CARSON — THE CONTINGENT FUND. 
 
 I ! 
 
 It; 
 
 "Oh dear,'' exclaimed the hady, " I should think your 
 wife would be so afraid of the Indians!" 
 
 "Afraid of the Indians!" exclaimed Meek in his turn' 
 " why, madam, she is an Indian herself!" 
 
 No further remarks on the subject were ventured that 
 evening ; ard it is doubtful if the lady did not take liis 
 answer as a rebuke to her curiosity rather than the plain 
 truth that it was. 
 
 Meek found his old comrade, Kit Carson, in Washington, 
 staying with Fremont at the house of Senator Benton. 
 Kit, who had left the mountains as poor as any other of 
 the mountain-men, had no resource at that time except 
 the pay furnished by Fremont for his services as guide and 
 explorer in the California and Oregon expeditions; where, 
 in fact, it was Carson and not Fremont who deserved fiune 
 as a path-finder. However that may be, Carson had as 
 little money as men of his class usually have, and needed 
 it as much. So long as Meek's purse was supplied, as it 
 generally was, by some member of the family at the White 
 House, Carson could borrow from him. But one being 
 quite as careless of money as the other, they were some- 
 times both out of pocket at the same time. In that case 
 the conversation was apt to take a turn like this : 
 
 Carson. Meek, let me have some money, can't you? 
 
 Meeh. I hav 'nt got any money, Kit. 
 
 Carson. Go and get some. 
 
 '•'"' Meek. it, whar am I to get money from ? 
 
 ' Carson. Try the "contingent fund," can't you? 
 
 Truth to tell the contingent fund was made to pay for 
 a good many things not properly chargeable to the neces- 
 sary expenditures of "Envoy Extraordinary" like our 
 friend from Oregon. 
 yt^h rjtyjp favoritism Avith which our hero was everywhere re- 
 • ceived was something remarkable, even when all the cir- 
 
GRAND RECEPTION AT BALTIMORE. 
 
 459 
 
 cumstiinccs of liis relationship to the chief magistrate, and 
 the popuharity of the Oregon question were considered. 
 Doubtless the novelty of having a bear-fighting and In- 
 dian-fighting Rocky Mountain man to lionize, was one 
 n-reat secret of the furore Avhich greeted him wherever he 
 vent ; but even that fails to account fully for the enthu- 
 siasm he awakened, since mountain-men had begun to be 
 pretty well known and understood, from the journal of 
 Fremont and other explorers. It could only have been 
 the social genius of the man which (jnabled him to over- 
 come the impediments of lack of education, and the asso- 
 ciations of half a lifetime, Bux whatever was the fortu- 
 uate cause of his success, he enjoyed it to the full. \Ie 
 took excursions about the country in all directions, 
 petted and spoiled like any "curled darling" instead of 
 the six-foot-two Rocky Mountain trapper that he was. 
 
 Ill June he received an invitation to Baltimore, tender- 
 ed by the city council, and was received by that body 
 with the mayor at its head, in whose carriage he was con- 
 veyed to Monument Square, to be welcomed by a thou- 
 sand ladies, smiling and showering roses upon him as he 
 passed. And kissing the roses because he could not kiss 
 the ladies, he bowed and smiled himself past the festive 
 groups waiting to receive the messenger from Oregon. 
 Music, dining, and the parade usual to such occasions 
 distinguished this day, which Meek declares to have been 
 the proudest of his life ; not denying that the beauty of 
 the Baltimore ladies contributed chiefly to produce that 
 impression. 
 
 On the fourth of July, Po^k laid the corner stone of the 
 National Monument. The occasion was celebrated with 
 great eclat^ the address being delivered by Winthrop, the 
 military display, and the fire-works in the evening being 
 unusually fine. In the procession General Scott and staff 
 
 !i; 
 
 'm 
 
l?5 
 
 460 THE LOWELL FACTORY GIRLS NATURAL REGRETS. 
 
 rode on one side of the President's carriage, Col. May and 
 Meek on the other, — Meek making a great display of 
 horsemanship, in which as a mountain-man he excelled. 
 
 A little later in the summer Meek joined a party of Con- 
 gressmen who were making campaign speeches in the 
 principal cities of the north. At Lowell, Mass., he visited 
 the cotton factories, and was equally surprised at the ex- 
 tent of the works, and the number of young women em- 
 ployed in them. Seeing this, the forewoman requested 
 him to stop until noon and see the girls come out. As 
 they passed in review before him, she asked if he had 
 made his choice. 
 
 "No," replied the gallant Oregonian, " it would be im- 
 possib^o to choose, out of such a lot as that ; I should have 
 to take them all." > . 
 
 If our hero, under all his gaity smothered a sigh of re- 
 gret that he was not at liberty to take one — a woman like 
 those with whom for the first time in his life he was privi- 
 leged to associate — who shall blame him ? The kind of 
 life he was living now was something totally different to 
 anything in the past. It opened to his comprehension 
 delightful possibilities of what might have been done and 
 enjoyed under other circumstances, yet which now never 
 could be done or enjoyed, until sometimes he was rea^^ 
 to fly from all these allurements, and hide himself again 
 in tho Rocky Mountains. Then again by a desperate effort, 
 such thoughts were banished, and he rushed more eagerly 
 than before into every pleasure afforded by the present 
 moment, as if to make the present atone for the past and 
 the future. 
 
 The kindness of the ladies at the White House, while it 
 was something to be grateful for, as well as to make him 
 envied, often had the effect to disturb his tranquiUty by 
 the suggestions it gave rise to. Yet he was always de- 
 
TS 
 
 1 REGRETS. 
 
 , Col. May and 
 eat display of 
 he excelled. 
 a party of Con- 
 eeches in the 
 ass., he visited 
 sed at the ex- 
 ng women em- 
 man requested 
 come out. As 
 5ked if he had 
 
 '•J ,: . -, ■ - ',t ■ 
 
 U'>t 
 
 
 t would be im- 
 I should have 
 
 d a sigh of re- 
 
 -a woman like 
 
 3 he was privi- 
 
 The kind of 
 
 lly different to 
 
 3Gmprehen^ion 
 
 been done and 
 
 ich now never 
 
 he was rear , 
 
 himself again 
 
 Bsperate effort, 
 
 L more eagerly 
 
 by the present 
 
 )r the past and 
 
 louse, while it 
 
 ,s to make him 
 
 tranquihty by 
 
 yas always de- 
 
 Wn 
 
COMMODORE WILKES- 
 
 -" OREGON LIES." 
 
 4G1 
 
 mandin^^ it, always accepting it. So constantly was he 
 tlie attendant of his lady cousins in public and in private, 
 riding and driving, or sauntering in the gardens of the 
 presidential mansion, that the less favored among their 
 acquaintances felt called upon to believe themselves ag- 
 frrieved. Often, as the tall form of our hero was seen 
 with a lady on either arm promenading the gardens at 
 evening, the question wouhl pass among the curious but 
 uninitiated — "Who is that?" And the reply of some 
 
 jealous grumbler would be — "It is that Rocky 
 
 Mountain man," so loud sometimes as to be overheard by 
 the careless trio, who smothereal a laugh behind a hat or 
 a fan. . ■;.:.' 
 
 And so passed that brief summer of our hero's life. A 
 great deal of experience, of sight-seeing, and enjoyment 
 had been crowded into a short few months of time. He 
 had been introduced to and taken by the hand by the 
 most celebrated men of the day. Nor had he failed to 
 meet with men whom he had known in the mountains and 
 in Oregon. His old employer, Wilkes, who was ill in 
 Washington, sent for him to come and tell " some of those 
 Oregon Hes" for his amusement, and Meek, to humor him, 
 stretched some of his good stories to the most wonderful 
 dimensions. ■•""■'■. . , ■ 
 
 But from the very nature of the enjoyment it could not 
 last long ; it was too vivid and sensational for constant 
 wear. Feeling this, he began to weary of Washington, 
 and more particularly since he had for the last few weeks 
 been stopping away from the White House. In one of his 
 restless moods he paid a visit to Polk, who detecting the 
 
 state of his mind asked laughingly ., 
 
 "Well, Meek, what do you want now?" 
 
 " I want to be franked." 
 
 "How long will five hundred dollars last you?" 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
462 
 
 EXTRAVAQANT HABITS. 
 
 "About as many days as there ar' hundreds, I reckon." 
 
 " You are shockingly extravagant, Meek. Where do 
 you think all this money is to come from ?" 
 
 "It is not my business to know, Mr. President," replied 
 Meek, laughing, " but it is the business of these United 
 States to pay the expenses of the messenger from Oregon 
 isn't it?" 
 
 " I think 1 will send you to the Secretary of War to be 
 franked. Meek ; his frank is better than mine. But no, 
 stay ; I will speak to Knox about it this time. And you 
 must not spend your money so recklessly, Meek ; it will 
 not do — it will not do." #• 
 
 Meek thanked the President both for the money and the 
 advice, but gave a champagne supper the next night, and 
 in a week's time was as empty-handed as ever. Washing- 
 ton manners were in some respects too much like moun- 
 tain manners for five hundred dollars to go a great ways. 
 
 .„ . ' i 
 
 !•■■ 1 i 
 
 \ ] 
 1 ■ 
 
 
 
 '"■'i:>\-^:M-\ '::^i;tf^y^}v^-j^,: . 
 
M«. THORNTON AS REPRESENTATIVE OF OREGON. 463 
 
 CHAPTER XL, 
 
 We must go back a little way and take up the thread 
 of Oregon's political history as it relates to the persons 
 and events of which we have .been writing. However 
 inogular had been the appointment of a delegate for 
 Oregon, while still unrecognized by the general govern- 
 ment, and however distasteful as a party measure the ap- 
 pointment of Mr. Thornton had been to a majority of the 
 people of Oregon, there was nevertheless sufficient merit 
 in his acts, since events had turned out as they had, to 
 reconcile even his enemies to them. For what did it con- 
 cern the people who procured or helped to procure the 
 blessings they asked for, so only that they were made sure 
 of the blessings. '■ ^ '' ' li: 
 
 Mr. Thornton had done what he could in "Washington 
 to secure for Oregon the things desired by her citizens. 
 Immediately on his arrival he had prepared, at the instance 
 of Mr, Polk, a memorial to Congress setting forth the con- 
 dition of the country and the wants of the colony. In 
 addition to this he had prayed for the passage of a law 
 organizing a territorial government, and donating land- 
 claims. To be sure Congress had been memorialized on 
 these subjects for years, and all to no purpose. But there 
 ivas a decided advantage in having a man versed in law 
 and conversant with legal forms as well as territorial wants, 
 to assist in getting up the bills concerning Oregon. Be- 
 sides, Thornton was a conscientious man, and would not 
 
 agree to a fraud. 
 30 
 
 
4G4 
 
 THE TERUITOHIAL BILL IN THE SENATE. 
 
 The tcrritoriiil bill was gotten up among the friends of 
 Oregon in the Free-Soil party, and had incorporated into 
 it the ordinance of 1787, prohibiting slavery, and this was 
 so not only because the free-soilers desired it, but because 
 the people of Oregon desired it. But a few sagacious 
 Southern members had conceived the idea of makino- Mr. 
 Thornton responsible for the expunging of the obnoxious 
 clause, by trying to convince h'm that the bill could never 
 be passed with the ordinance of 1787 in it, and that would 
 he, Thornton, but consent to have it stricken out, they 
 were assured that the friends of free-soil would allow it to 
 pass for the sake of waiting, expectant Oregon. So rea- 
 soned Calhoun and others. 
 
 Thornton, however, was both too wise and too faithful 
 to be humbugged in that specious manner. He assured 
 Mr. Calhoun that in the first place he had no authority to 
 consent to the expunging of the ordinance of 1787; in 
 the second place, that the people of Oregon would wait 
 for a territorial government until they could obtain one 
 which promised them free institutions ; and in the third 
 place, that he did not believe the free-soil party would ever 
 allow the bill to pass, amended as Mr. Calhoun proposed; 
 therefore that had he the authority to consent to the amend- 
 ment, he should gain nothing, but lose all by doing so. 
 
 Thus, through the almost entire summer, the friends 
 and the enemies of free-soil quarreled and schemed over 
 Oregon. Not that any were really opposed to the exten- 
 sion of" the Government over that territory, but only that 
 the Southern members objected to more free soil. 
 
 The President was very anxious that the bill should 
 pass in some shape during his administration. Benton of 
 Missouri, was eager for its passage as it was. Butler of 
 South Carolina, fiercely opposed to it. Numerous were 
 the skirmishes which these two Senators had over the 
 
 
r 
 
 THE BILL OPPOBED BY SQUTHEUNEKS. - 
 
 465 
 
 ()ie""on question ; and a duel would, in one inHtanco, hnvo 
 resulted, had not the arrest of the parties put a tormina- 
 tion to the affair. . • .'. 
 
 The land bill too, gave considerable trouble ; not from 
 any opposition it encountered, but because nobody knew 
 Low much land to give each settler. Some Congressmen, 
 in the magnificence of their generosity and compassion, 
 were for granting one thousand acres to every white male 
 settler of the territory. The committee who had this bill 
 in hand, on consulting the two Oregon representatives, 
 were informed that the proposed donation was altogether 
 tuo large, and it was subsequently reduced. 
 
 The close of the session was at hand and nothing had 
 'oeen done except to talk. Congress was to adjourn at 
 noon on Monday, August 14th, and it was now Saturday 
 the 12th. The friends of Oregon were anxious; the two 
 waiting Oregonians nearly desperate. On this morning 
 of the 12th, the friends of the bill, under Benton's lead, de- 
 terrained upon obtaining a vote on the final passage of the 
 l)ill; resolving that they would not yield to u^j usual mo- 
 tions for delay and adjournments, but that they would, if 
 necessary, sit until twelve o'clock Monday. 
 
 On the other hand, the southern members, finding that 
 no motion for adjournment could be made to prevail, But- 
 ler, of South Carolina, moved that the Senate go into ex- 
 ecutive session. This was done because under the rules 
 of the Senate, the Oregon bill would necessarily give 
 place to the business of the executive session. And the 
 business to which Senator Butler proposed to call the at- 
 tention of the senate was certain conduct of the gentle- 
 man from Missouri, which he characterized as dishonorable. 
 
 At the word " dishonorable " Benton sprang to his feet, 
 ^claiming — "You lie, sir! you lie! ! I cram the lie down 
 your tlu-oat ! ! !" at the same time advancing toward Butler 
 
 \ 
 
466 
 
 SCENE BETWEEN BU'fl.ER AND HENTOX. 
 
 with his fist clenched and raised in a thr(>atening manner. 
 Butler on his part seemed very willing to engage in a per- 
 sonal conflict, awaiting his antagonist with the genuine 
 game look which has formerly been supposed to be one 
 of the signs of good southern blood. " 
 
 But a fight on the floor of the Senate between two of 
 its white-haired members could not be suilered to go on, 
 the combatants being separated by the other Senators. 
 who crowded in between. The eyes of Butler burned 
 fiercely as he said to Benton over the heads of his of- 
 ficious friends, — 
 
 "I will see you, sir, at another time and place!" 
 
 "Very well, sir;" returned Benton: "but you will do 
 well to understand that when I fight, I fight for a fu- 
 neral!" 
 
 That this affair did not terminate in d funeral was 
 probably owing to the arrest of the parties. 
 
 At ten o'clock Saturday evening, order having been re- 
 stored, and no adjournment having yet prevailed. Senator 
 Foote of Mississippi, arose and commenced to speak in a 
 manner most irritatingly drawling and dull; saying that 
 since there was to be no adjournment before twelve o'clock 
 Monday noon, he proposed to entertain to the best of liis 
 ability the grave deliberative body before him. 
 
 Commencing at the creation of Adam, he gave the Bi- 
 ble Story — the creation of Eve ; the fall of man ; the his- 
 tory of the children of Israel ; the stories of the proph- 
 ets ; ecclesiastical history, — only yielding the floor for a 
 motion, at intervals of an hour each, continuing to drawl 
 through the time hour after hour. 
 
 Sleepy senators betook themselves to the anteroom to 
 lunch, to drink, to talk to the waiting ones, and to sleep. 
 But whenever a motion was made, a page aroused the 
 sleepers and they took their seats and voted. 
 

 SENATOR FOOTb's LECTUIIE — THE hill l'A8SED. 4G7 
 
 Thus woro the uiglit away. The Sabbath morning's sun 
 arose, and still Foote waa in the midst of liis Bible disqui- 
 sitions. At length, two hours after sunrise, a consultation 
 was held between Butler, Mason, Calhoun, Davis and 
 Foote, which resulted in the announcement that no further 
 opposition would be offered to taking the vote upon the 
 liiiiil passage of the Oregon bill. The vote was then ta- 
 ken, the bill passed, and the weary senate adjourned, to 
 meet again on Monday for a final adjournment. 
 
 After the adjournment on Sunday morning, Benton in 
 alhidiiig to the scene between himself and the senator 
 tioiu South Carolina, said, "he did not blame Judge But- 
 ler so much as he might ; because that scoundrel 
 
 Calhoun was urging Butler to it, while he himself sat say- 
 ing nothing, and doing nothing, but looking as demure as 
 a courtesan at a christening." - - -. .- 
 
 Truly "such are the compliments that pass when gen- 
 tlemen meet." ■>^''n'; r ■>,., . , . ,.!>. ,,..':^ -J.,, 5. : „ 
 
 The Land bill, or Donation act, as it is generally known, 
 failed of being passed at this session, simply because it 
 had to wait for the Territorial bill to be passed, being 
 supplementary to it, and because after the passage of that 
 bill there was no time to take up the other. 
 
 As Thornton had been chiefly instrumental in getting 
 the Donation bill into shape, it was a severe disappoint- 
 ment, in not having it passed at the same session with the 
 Territorial bill, and having to return to Oregon with- 
 out this welcome present to the people of the new ter- 
 ritory. 
 
 Collamer of Vermont, sympathizing with the failure of 
 the Donation Law, proposed to T .ornton to draw up a 
 new bill including some amendments suggested by him, 
 and to forward the same to jis (Collamer's) address, prom- 
 ising to see what could be done with it thereafter. This 
 
 s/, . 
 
468 
 
 ( ' > '.'• .J ' 
 
 FAILrRE OF THE LAND BILL. 
 
 y^mn 
 
 I --I 
 
 Thornton did, and also carried a copy of it home to Ore- 
 gon, and placed it in the hands of Oregon's first delegate 
 to Congress, who, after making a few alterations in the 
 bill, adopted and claimed it for his own. The bill thus 
 amended and re-amended, became a law in September 
 1850 ; and of that law we shall have occasion to speak 
 hereafter. 
 
 
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 '^r^'tiv. 
 
 fr.'; 
 
 .1 ' 
 
MEEK APPOINTED U. a. MARHUAL FOIi OREGON. 
 
 469 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 1848-9. The long susiDensc ended, Meek prepared to 
 return lo Oregon, if not without some regrets, at the same 
 time not unwillingly. His restless temper, and life-long 
 habits of unrestrained freedom began to revolt against the 
 conventionality of his position in Washington. Besides, 
 ill appointing officers for the new territory, Polk had made 
 him United States Marshal, than which no office could 
 have suited him better, and le was as prompt to assume 
 the discharge of its duties, as all his life he had been to 
 undertake any duty to which his fortunes assigned him. 
 
 On the 20th of August, only six days after the passage 
 of the territorial bill, he received his papers from Buchan- 
 an, and set off for Bedford Springs, whither the family 
 from the White House were flown to escape from the suf- 
 focating air of Washington in August. He had brought 
 liis papers to be signed by Polk, and being expected by 
 the President found everything arranged for his speedy 
 departure ; Polk even ordering a seat for him in the up- 
 coming coach, by telegraph. On learning this from the 
 Presidf nt, at dinner, when the band was playing, Meek 
 turned to the leader and ordered him to play " Sweet 
 Home," much to the amusement of his lady cousins, who 
 had their own views of the sweets of a home in Oregon. 
 A hurried farewell, spoken to each of his friends sepa- 
 rately, and Oregon's new Marshal was ready to proceed 
 on his long journey toward the Pacific. 
 
 'V 
 
 '1 
 
470 
 
 PAY OF THE DELEGATES THE LION S SHARE. 
 
 I . 
 
 The occasion of Polk's haste in the matter of getting 
 Meek started, was his anxiety to have the Oregon govern- 
 ment become a fact before the expiration of his term of 
 oihce. The appointment of Governor of the new terri- 
 tory had been offered to Shields, and declined. Another 
 commission had been made out, appointing General Jo- 
 seph Lane of Indiana, Governor of Oregon, and the com- 
 mission Avas that day signed by the President and giveii 
 to Meek to be delivered to Lane in the shortest possible 
 time. His last words to the Marshal on parting were— 
 " God bless you. Meek. Tell Lane to have a territorial 
 government organized during my administration." 
 
 Of the ten thousand dollars appropriated by Congress 
 "to be expended under the direction of the President, in 
 payment for services and expenses of such persons as had 
 been engaged by the provisional government of Oregon 
 in conveying communications to and from the United 
 States; and for purchase of presents for such Indian 
 tribes as the peace and quiet of the country required"— 
 Thornton received two thousand six hundred dollars, 
 Meek seven thousand four hundred, and the Indian tribes 
 none. Whether the President believed that the peace 
 and quiet of the country did not require presents to be 
 made to the Indians, or whether family credit required 
 that Meek should get the lion's share, is not known. How- 
 ever that may be, our hero felt himself to be quite rich, 
 and proceeded to get rid of his superfluity, as will hereafter 
 be seen, with his customary prodigality and enjoyment of 
 the present without regard to the future. 
 
 Before midnight on the day of his arrival at the springs. 
 Meek was on his way to Indiana to see General Lane. Ar- 
 riving at the Newburg landing one morning at day-break, 
 he took horse immediately for the General's residence at 
 Newburg, and presented him with hia commission soon 
 
THE GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL START FOR OREGON. 471 
 
 after breakflist. Lane sat writing, Avhcn Meek, introducing 
 himself, laid his papers before him. - 
 
 "Do jou accept?" asked Meek. ' • • i 
 
 "Yes," answered Lane. ■ : • 
 
 "How soon can you be ready to start ?" ' • 
 
 "111 fifteen minutes!" answered Lane, with military 
 promptness. •, - -t - 
 
 Three days, however, were actually required to make the 
 necessary p'-eparations for leaving his fiirm and proceed- 
 ing to the most remote corner of the United States terri- 
 tory. 
 
 At St. Louis they were detained one day, waiting for a 
 boat to Leavenworth, where they expected to meet their 
 escort. This one day was too precious to be lost in wait- 
 ing by so business-like a person as our hero, who, when 
 nothing more important was to be done generally was 
 found trying to get rid of liis money. So, on this occa- 
 sion, after having disburdened himself of a small amount 
 in treating the new Governor and all his acquaintances, he 
 entered into negotiations with a peddler who was impor- 
 tuning the passengers to buy everything, from a jack- 
 knife to a silk dress. <s.iiai' -,!:.v^,i!iB"^; '»(-!;;- ■'ftj«ji->aw \-mMm 
 Finding that Nat. Lane, the General's son, wanted a 
 knife, but was disposed to beat down the price, Meek 
 made an offer for the lot of a dozen or two, and thereby 
 prevented Lane getting one at any price. Not satisfied 
 ivith this investment, he next made a purchase of three 
 whole pieces of silk, at one dollar and fifty cents per yard. 
 At this stage of the transaction General Lane interfered 
 sufficiently to inquire " what he expected to do with that 
 stuff?" 
 
 " Can't tell," answered Meek ; "but I reckon it is worth 
 tlio monev." 
 '• Better save your money," said the more prudent Lane. 
 
 f 
 
 ■hJ^^B^HI i 
 
 1 
 
 P^Pi 
 
472 
 
 THE ESCORT OF RIFLEMEN — THE ROUTE. 
 
 But the incorrigible spendthrift only laughed, and threat- 
 ened to buy out the Jew's entire stock, if Lane persisted 
 in preaching economy. 
 
 At St. Louis, besides his son Nat., Lane was metk 
 Lieut. Hawkins, who was appointed to the command of 
 the escort of twenty -five riflemen, and Dr. Hayden, sur- 
 geon of the company. This party proceeded to Leaven- 
 worth, the point of starting, where the wagons and men 
 of Hawkins' command awaited them. At this place, Meek 
 was met by a brother and two sisters who had come to 
 look on him for the first time in many years. The two 
 days' delay which was necessary to get the train ready for 
 a start, aflTorded an opnorLunity for this family reunion, the 
 last that might ever occur between its widely separated 
 branches, new shoots from which extend at this day from 
 Virginia to Alabama, and from Tennessee to California 
 and Oregon. 
 
 By the 10th of September the new government was on 
 its way to Oregon in the persons of Lane and Meek. The 
 whole company of officers, men, and teamsters, numbered 
 about fifty -five ; the wagons ten ; and riding-horses, an 
 extra supply for each rider. 
 
 The route taken, with the object to avoid the snows of 
 a northern winter, was from Leavenworth to Santa Fe, 
 and thence down the Rio Grande to near El Paso ; thence 
 northwesterly by Tucson, in Arizona; thence to the 
 Pimas village on the Gila River ; following the Gila to its 
 junction with the Colorado, thence northwesterly again to 
 the Bay of San Pedro in California. From this place the 
 company were to proceed by ship to San Francisco ; and 
 thence again by ship to the Columbia River. 
 
 On the Santa Fe trail they met the army returning 
 from Mexico, under Price, and learned from them that 
 they could not proceed with wagons beyond Santa Fe. 
 
price's AllMY — AN ADVENTURE. 
 
 473 
 
 The lateness of the season, although it was not attended 
 with snow, as on the northern route it would have been, 
 subjected tlio travelers 'nevertheless to the strong, cold 
 winds which blow over the vast extent of open country 
 between the Missouri River and the high mountain range 
 which forms the water-shed of the continent. It also 
 made it more difficult to subsist the animals, especially 
 after meeting Price's army, which had already swept the 
 country bare. 
 
 On coming near Santa Fe, Meek was riding ahead of 
 his party, when he had a most unexpected encounter. 
 Seeing a covered traveling carriage drawn up under the 
 shade of some trees growing beside a small stream, not 
 fixr off from the trail, he resolved, with his usual love of 
 adventure, to discover for himself the character of the 
 proprietor. But as he drew nearer, he discovered no 
 one, although a camp-table, stood under the trees, spread 
 Avith refreshments, not only of a solid, but a fluid nature. 
 The sight of a bottle of cognac induced him to dismount, 
 and he was helping himself to a liberal glass, when a 
 head was protruded from a covering of blankets inside 
 the carriage, and a heavy bass voice was heard in a polite 
 protest : 
 
 " Seems to me, stranger, you are making free with my 
 property !" 
 
 "Here's to you, sir," rejoined the purloiner ; " it isn't 
 often I find as good brandy as that," — holding out the 
 glass admiringly, — " but when I do, I make it a point of 
 honor not to pass it." 
 
 '•May I inquire your name, sir?" asked the owner of 
 the brandy, forced to smile at the good-humored audacity 
 of his guest. 
 
 " I couldn't refuse to give my name after that," — re- 
 placing the glass on the table, — "and I now introduce 
 
 
 . S —I 
 
 
 J' 
 
474 
 
 A PLEASANT AND UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTER. 
 
 I ! 
 
 myself as Joseph L. Meek. Esq., Marshal of Oregon, on 
 my way from Washington to ii;^:sist General Lane in estab- 
 lisliing a territorial Government west of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains. " 
 
 "Meek! — what, not the Joe Meek I have heard my 
 brothers tell so much about ?" 
 
 " Joe Meek is my name ; but whar did your brothers 
 know me ?" inquired our hero, mystified in his turn. 
 
 " I think you must have known Captain William Sub- 
 lette and his brother Milton, ten or twelve years ago, in 
 the Eocky Mountains," said the gentleman, getting out of 
 the carriage, and approaching Meek with extended hand. 
 
 A delighted recognition now took place. From Solo- 
 mon Sublette, the owner of the d./riage and the cognac, 
 Meek learned many particulars of the life and death of 
 his former leaders in the mountains. Neither of them 
 were then living ; but this younger brother, Solomon, 
 had inherited Captain Sublette's wife and wealth at the 
 same time. .After these explanations, Mr. Sublette raised 
 the curtains of the carriage again, and assisted to descend 
 from it a lady, whom he introduced as his wife, and who 
 exhibited much gratification in becoming acquainted with 
 the hero of many a tale recited to her by her former hus- 
 band, Captain Sublette. 
 
 In the midst of this pleasant exchange of reminiscences, 
 the remainder of Meek's party rode up, were introduced, 
 and invited to regale themselves on the fine liquors with 
 which Mr. Sublette's carriage proved to be well furnished. 
 This little adventure gave our hero much pleasure, as 
 furnishing a link between the past and present, and bring- 
 ing freshly to mind many incidents already beginning to 
 fade in his memory, <■ .r.^^.p,^- ; 
 
 At Santa Fe, the train stopped to be overhauled and 
 reconstructed. The wagons having to be abandoned, 
 
T^^^l 
 
 DESERTION OF SOLDIERS DROUTH. 
 
 475 
 
 their contents had to be packed on mules, after the man- 
 ner of mountain or of Mexican travel and transportation. 
 This change accomplished, with as little delay as possible, 
 the train proceeded without any other than the usual 
 difficulties, as far as Tucson, when two of the twenty-five 
 riflemen deserted, having become suddenly enamored of 
 Hberty, in the dry and dusty region of southern Arizona. 
 Lieutenant ILiwlcins, immediately on discovering the 
 desertion, dispatched two men, well armed, to compel 
 their return. One of the men detailed for this duty be- 
 longed to the riflemen, but the other was an American, 
 who, with a company of Mexican packers, had joined the 
 train at Santa Fe, and was acting in the capacity of pilot, 
 hi order to fit out this volunteer for the service, always 
 dangerous, of retaking deserting soldiers, Meek had lent 
 him his Colt's revolvers. It was a vain precaution, how- 
 ever, both the men being killed in attempting to capture 
 the deserters ; and Meek's pistols were never more heard 
 of, having fallen into the murderous hands of the run- 
 aways, ;...,,.. ,....-.,( ,^^ 
 
 Drouth now began to be the serious evil with which 
 the travelers had to contend. From the Pimas villages 
 westward, it continually grcAV worse, the animals being 
 greatly reduced from the want both of food and water. 
 At the crossing of the Colorado, the animals had to be 
 crossed over by swimming, the officers and men by rafts 
 made of bulrushes. Lane and Meek being the first to be 
 ferried over, were landed unexpectedly in the midst of a 
 Yuma village. The Indians, however, gave them no 
 trouble, and, except the little artifice of drowning some 
 of the mules at the crossing, in order to get their flesh to 
 eat, committed neither murders nor thefts, nor any out- 
 rage whatever. 
 
 It was quite as well for the unlucky mules to be 
 
 
 
476 
 
 DEMORALIZATION OF THE ESCORT. 
 
 drowned and eaten as it was for their follows to travel on 
 over tlio arid desert before them until they starved and 
 perished, which they nearly all did. From the Colorado 
 on, the company of Lieut. Hawkins became thorougliW 
 demoralized. Not only would the animals persist in 
 dying, several in a day, but the soldiers also persisted in 
 deserting, until, by the time he reached the coast, his for- 
 lorn hope was reduced to three men. But it was not the 
 drouth in their case which caused the desertions : it was 
 rumors which they heard everywhere along the route, of 
 mines of gold and silver, where they flattered themselves 
 they could draw better pay than from Uncle Sam's coffers, 
 
 The same difliculty from desertion harassed Lieutenant- 
 Colonel Loring in the following summer, when he at- 
 tempted to establish a line of posts along the route to 
 Oregon, by the way of Forts Kearney, Laramie, and 
 through the South Pass to Fort Hall. His mounted rifle 
 regiment dwindled down to almost nothing. At one 
 time, over one hundred men deserted in a body : and al- 
 though he pursued and captured seventy of them, he 
 could not keep them from deserting again at the first 
 favorable moment. The bones of many of those gold- 
 seeking soldiers were left on the plains, where wolves had 
 stripped the flesh from them ; and many more finally had 
 rude burial at the hands of fellow gold-seekers : but few 
 indeed ever won or enjoyed that for which they risked 
 everything. 
 
 On arriving at Cook's wells, some distance beyond the 
 Colorado, our travelers found that the water at this place 
 was tainted by the body of a mule which had lost its life 
 some days before in endeavoring to get at the water. 
 This was a painful discovery for the thirsty party to make. 
 However, there being no water for some distance ahead, 
 General Lane boiled some of it, and made coifee of it, 
 
 la \ 
 
vs to travel on 
 ;y starved and 
 I the Colorado 
 ne thoroughly 
 lals persist in 
 30 persisted in 
 ( coast, his for- 
 it was not the 
 ^rtions : it was 
 : the route, of 
 •ed themselves 
 ) Sara's coffers, 
 ed Lieutenant- 
 , when he at- 
 5 the route to 
 Laramie, and 
 
 mounted rifle 
 iiig. At one 
 3ody : and al- 
 
 of them, he 
 n at the first 
 )f those gold- 
 ro wolves had 
 )re finally had 
 
 ers : but few 
 h they risked 
 
 e beyond the 
 r at this place 
 id lost its life 
 at the water. 
 >arty to make, 
 ■stance ahead, 
 coffee of it, 
 
 ' '■■Xl 
 
 1 
 
■y^*; ■ 
 
 i,«.' 
 
 m^ 
 
^ 
 
 Till:; PAUir ON FOOT EXTUEME SUFFEUINQ. 
 
 477 
 
 reni.'irking that "maggots were more easily swallowed 
 cooked than raw!" 
 
 And here the writer, and no doubt, the reader too, is 
 compelled to make a reflection. Was the office of Gover- 
 nor of a Territory at fifteen hundred dollars a year, and 
 Indian agent at fifteen hundred more, worth a journey of 
 over three thousand miles, chiefly by land, even allowing 
 that there had been no maggots in the water? Quien 
 sabef 
 
 Not far from this locality our party came upon one hun- 
 dred wagons abandoned by Major Graham, who had not 
 been able to cross tiie desert with them. Proceeding on- 
 ward, the riders eventually found themselves on foot, there 
 being only a few animals left alive to transport the bag- 
 gage that could not be abandoned. So great was their 
 extremity, that to quench their thirst the stomach of a 
 mule was opened to get at the moisture it contained. In 
 tlie horror and pain of the thirst-fever. Meek renewed 
 again the sufferings he had undergone years before in the 
 deserts inhabited by Diggers, and on the parched plains 
 of the Snake River. 
 
 About the middle of January the Oregon Government, 
 which had started out so gaily from Fort Leavenworth, 
 arrived weary, dusty, foot-sore, famished, and suffering, at 
 William's Ranch on the Santa Anna River, which empties 
 into the Bay of San Pedro. Here they were very kindly 
 received, and their wants ministered to. 
 
 At this place Meek developed, in addition to his various 
 accomplishments, a talent for speculation. While over- 
 hauling his baggage, the knives and the silk which had 
 been purchased of the peddler in St. Louis, were brought 
 to light. No sooner did the senoritas catch a glimpse of 
 the shining fabrics than they went into raptures over them, 
 after the fashion of their sex. Seeing the state of mind 
 
 ,n 
 
 t 'I 
 
478 
 
 SPECULATION IN SILKS AND JACKKNIVES. 
 
 l+n ■ I 
 
 to which these raptures, if unheeded, were likely to re- 
 duce the ladies of his house, Mr. Williams approaclied 
 Meek delicately on the subject of purchase. But Meek 
 in the first flush of speculative shrewdness declared that 
 as he had bought the goods for his own wife, he could not 
 find it in his heart to sell them. 
 
 However, as the senoritas were likely to prove inconsola- 
 ble, Mr. Williams again mentioned the desire of his family 
 to be clad in silk, and the great difficulty, nay, impossi- 
 bility, of obtaining the much coveted fabric in that part 
 of the world, and accompanied his remarks with an offer 
 of ten dollars a yard for the lot. At this magnificent offer 
 our hero affected to be overcome by regard for the feel- 
 ings of the senoritas, and consented to sell his dollar and 
 a-half silks for ten dollars per yard. 
 
 In the same manner, finding that knives were a desira- 
 ble article in that country, very much wanted by miners 
 and others, he sold out his dozen or two, for an ounce 
 each of gold-dust, netting altogether the convenient little 
 profit of about five hundred dollars. When Gen. Lane 
 was infoTTard of the transaction, and reminded of his ob- 
 jections to rhe original purchase, he laughed heartily. 
 
 "Well, Meek," said he, "you were drunk when you 
 
 bought them, and by I think you must have been 
 
 drunk when you sold them; but drunk or sober, I will 
 own you can beat me at a bargain," 
 
 Such bargains, however, became common enough about 
 this time in California, for this was the year memorable in 
 California history, of the breaking out of the gold-fever, 
 and the great rush to the mines which made even the 
 commonest things worth their weight in gold-dust. 
 
 Proceeding to Los Angelos, our party, once more comfort- 
 ably mounted, found traveling comparatively easy. At this 
 place they found quartered the command of Maj. Graham, 
 
 :J,'S*- 
 
OUEaONIANS AT BAN FRANCISCO. 
 
 479 
 
 whose abandoned wagons had been passed at the Iloniclhi 
 on the Colorado River. The town, too, was crowded 
 with miners, men of every class, but chiefly American 
 adventurers, drawn together from every quarter of Cali- 
 fornia and Mexico by the rumor of the gold discovery at 
 Sutter's Fort. 
 
 On arriving at San Pedro, a vessel — the Southampton, 
 was found ready to sail. She had on board a crowd of 
 fugitives from Mexico, bound to San Francisco, where they 
 hoped to find repose from the troubles which harassed 
 that revolutionary Republic. 
 
 At San Francisco, Meek was surprised to meet about 
 two hundred Oregonians, who on the first news of the 
 gold discovery the previous autumn, had fled, as it is said 
 men shall flee on the day of judgment — leaving the wheat 
 ungathered in the fields, the grain unground in the mills, 
 the cattle unherded on the plains, their tools and farming 
 implements rusting on the ground — everything abandoned 
 as if it would never more be needed, to go and seek the 
 shining dust, which is vainly denominated "filthy lucre." 
 The two hundred were on their way home, having all 
 either made something, or lost their health by exposure 
 so that they were obliged to return. But they left many 
 more in the mines. 
 
 Such were the tales told in San Francisco of the won- 
 derful fortunes of some of the miners that young Lane be- 
 came infected with the universal fever and declared his 
 I intention to try mining with the rest. Meek too, deter- 
 mined to risk something in gold-seeking, and as some of 
 the teamsters who had left Fort Leavenworth with the 
 company, and had come as far as San Francisco, were very 
 desirous of going to the mines, Meek fitted out two or 
 three with pack-horses, tools, and provisions, to accompany 
 [young Lane. For the money expended in the outfit he 
 31 
 
 
480 
 
 THE GOVERNOR AND MARSHAL QUARREL. 
 
 was to receive half of their first year's profits. The re- 
 sult of this venture was three pickle-jars of gold-dust 
 which were sent to him by the hands of Nat. Lane, the 
 following year ; and which just about reimbursed him for 
 the outlay. 
 
 At San Francisco, Gen. Lane found the U. S. Sloop of 
 War, the Si. Mary^s; and Meek insisted that the Oregon 
 government, which was represented in their persons, had 
 a right to require her services in transporting itself to its 
 pioper seat. But Lane, whose notions of economy ex- 
 tended, singularly enough, to the affairs of the general 
 government, would not consent to the needless expendi- 
 ture. Meek was rebellious, and quoted Thornton, by 
 whom he was determined noL lu be outdone in respect of 
 expense for transportation. Lane insisted that his dignity 
 did not require a government vessel to convey him to 
 Oregon. In short the new government was very muth 
 divided against itself, and only escaped a fall by Meek's 
 finding some one, or some others, else, on whom to ^.lay 
 his pranks. 
 
 The first one was a Jew peddler who had gentlemen's 
 clothes to sell. To him the Marshal represented himself 
 as a United States Custom officer, and after frightening 
 him with a threat of confiscating his entire stock, finally 
 compromised with the terrified Israelite by accepting a 
 suit of clothes for himself After enjoying the mortifica- 
 tion of f.pirit which the loss inflicted on the Jew, for twen- 
 ty-four hours, he finally ^^aid him for the clothes, at the 
 same time administering a lecture upon the sin and dan- 
 ger of smuggling. 
 
 The party which had left Leavenworth for Oregon] 
 nearly six months before, numbering fifty-five, now num- 
 bered only seven. Of the original number 'wo had been I 
 killed, and all the rest had deserted to go to the mines. 
 
 t ( 
 
A SALUTE ARRIVAL AT OREGON CITY. 
 
 481 
 
 There remained only Gen. Lane, Meek, Lieut. Hawkins 
 iind riayden, surgeon, besides three soldiers. With this 
 small company Gen. Lane went on board the Jeonette^ a 
 small vessel, crowded with miners, and destined for the 
 Colurabld River. As the Jeanette dropped down the Bay, 
 a salute was fired from the St Mary's in honor of Gen. 
 Lane, and appropriated to himself by Marshal Meek, who 
 sennas to have delighted in appropriating to himself ail 
 the honors in whatever circumstances he might be placed ; 
 the more especially too, if such assumption annoyed the 
 General. 
 
 After a tedious voyage of eighteen days the Jeanette 
 arrived m the Columbia River. From Astoria the party 
 took small boats for Oregon City, a voyage ol one hun- 
 dred and twenty miles ; so that it was already the 2d of 
 March when they arrived at that place, and only one day 
 was left for the organization of the Territjiial Govern- 
 ment before the expiration of Polk's term of office. Gen. 
 Lane's economy had nearly defeated Polk s greet desire.-u 
 
 " .\ • ', ',.1- '-'J:''. '■...■,; '•-:■' H>:l--^t^--,t'\ 
 
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 iff 
 
 
 
 
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 Mj. 
 
 
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482 
 
 THE DROPPED THREADS OF OUR STORY. 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 - 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 ^ 1 . -tl 
 
 1849. If this were a novel which we T^-^-re writing, we 
 should fix upon this point in our story o ''i — "And so 
 they were married, and lived together h tppily ever af- 
 ter;" placing the Finis directly after that sentence. For 
 have we not brought Oregon through all the romantic ad- 
 ventures and misadventures ot her extraordinary youth, 
 and ushered her upon the stage of action a promising 
 young Territory ? As for our hero, he too has arrived at 
 the climax of his individual glory and success, a point at 
 which it might be wise to leave him. 
 
 But a regard for the eternal fitness of things compels 
 us to gather up again the dropped threads of sotie por- 
 tions of our story, and follow them to their pr« ' v?,ki 
 ing up. We promise, however, to touch as lig^ ;] ' " ' !>'■ 
 sible upon the Territorial history of Oregon; fo ' ipi 
 political record here becomes, what the political recuiu 
 of too many other Territories has been, a history of dema 
 gogueism. With this preface we proceed to finish our nar. 
 rative. 
 
 On the 2d of March Gen. Lane ; I'ved at Oregon City, 
 and was introduced to Gov. Aberut.l-y, by M ■ -hal Meek. 
 On the 3d, there appeared the following — 
 
 PROCLAMATION. 
 
 In pmsua».co of an act of C'^siprAsg^ ^{•j>>rred the 14th of Aujrust, in the 
 year of oui" Lord 1848, establishing a Ter "t 'fl Government in the Territory 
 of Oregon : 
 
 I, Joseph Lane, was, on the 18th day of August, in the year ISiB, appointed 
 
STORY. 
 
 GOV. LANES PROCLAMATION. 
 
 483 
 
 K^f.re writing, we 
 'b—" And so 
 b ippily ever af- 
 ; sentence. For 
 the romantic ad- 
 aordinary youth, 
 ion a promising 
 )o has arrived at 
 iccess, a point at 
 
 ■ things ccmpels 
 ids of some yor- 
 eir pr-" f .?•' Tnii 
 as lig^ ;] V '^'- ' l»'" 
 )regon; fo ' ipi 
 ! political recuiu 
 history of dema 
 to finish our nar. 
 
 [ at Oregon City, 
 )y M: 'hal Meek. 
 
 1 4th of August, in the 
 iment in the Territory 
 
 le year 1818, 
 
 Governor in and for the Territory of Oregon. I have therefore thought it 
 proper to issue chis, my proclamation, making known that I have this day en- 
 tered upon the discharge of the duties of my office, and by virtue thereof do 
 (kfiare the laws of the United States extended over, and declared to be in 
 force in si "d Territory, so far as the same, or any portion thereof, may be ap- 
 plicable. 
 
 Given under my hand at Oregon City, in the Territory of Oregon, this 3d 
 day of March, Anno Domini 1849. Josr,PH Lah&. 
 
 Thus Oregon had one day, under Polk, who, take it all 
 in all, had been a faithful guardian of her interests. 
 
 Shortly after che appearance of the proclamation of 
 Gov. Lane, Meek was sworn into office, and gave the re- 
 quired securities. All the other Territorial officers pres- 
 ent in the Territory, or as fast as they arrived, took the 
 oath of office ; courts were established, and the new gov- 
 ernment moved on. Of the President 'al appointees who 
 accepted, were William T. Bryant of Indiana, Chief Jus- 
 tice 0. C. Pratt of Illinois, and Peter H. Burnett of Ore- 
 gon, Associate Justices of the District Court: John Adair 
 of Kentuct y, Collector for the District of Oregon : and 
 Kintzinge Pritchett of Pennsylvania, Secretary of State. 
 
 The condition in which Gov. Lane found the new Ter- 
 ritory was not so sad as might reasonably be conjectured 
 from the fears of its inhabitants fifteen months previou.^. 
 Intimidated by the pr eh.ence of the volunteers in the upper 
 country, the Indians had remained quiet, and the immigra- 
 tion of 1848 passed through their country without being 
 disturbed in any manner. So little apprehension was felt 
 concerning an Indian war at this time that men did not 
 hesitate to leave their homes and families to go to the gold 
 fields of California. 
 
 In the month of August, 1848, the Honolulu^ a vessel 
 of one hundred and fifty tons, owned in Boston, carrying 
 a consignment of goods to a mercantile house in Portland, 
 arrived at her anchorage in the Wallamet, via San Fran- 
 
 ca 
 
 
 m 
 
48A 
 
 THE GOLD EXCITEMENT. 
 
 I -I 
 
 If ' I 
 
 
 CISCO, California. Captain Newell, almost before he had 
 discharged freight, commenced buying up a cargo of flour 
 and other provisions. But what excited the wonder of 
 the Oregonians was the fact that he also bought up all 
 manner of tools such as could be used in digging or cut- 
 ting, from a spade and pickaxe, to a pocket-knife. This 
 singular proceeding naturally aroused the suspicions of a 
 people accustomed to have something to suspect. A de- 
 mand was made for the HonolidiCs papers, and these not 
 being forthcoming, it was proposed by some of the pru- 
 dent ones to tie her up. When this movement was at- 
 tempted, the secret came out. Captain Newell, holding 
 up a bag of gold-dust before the astonished eyes of his 
 persecutors, cried out — • . -, ' : ; 
 
 " Do you see that gold ? you, I will depopulate 
 
 your country ! I know where there is plenty of this stuff, 
 and I am taking these tools where it is to be found." 
 
 This was in August, the month of harvest. So great 
 was the excitement which seized the people, that all classes 
 of men were governed by it. Few persons stopped to 
 consider that this was the time for producers to reap golden 
 harvests of precious ore, for the other yellow harvest of 
 grain which was already ripe and waiting to be gathered. 
 Men left their grain standing, and took their teams from 
 the reapers to pack their provisions and tools to the mines. 
 
 Some men would have gladly paid double to get back 
 the spades, shovels, or picks, which the shrewd Yankee 
 Captain had purchased from them a week previous. All 
 implements of this nature soon commanded fabulo as prices, 
 and he was a lucky man who had a supply. 
 
 The story of the gold-fever which began in the fall and 
 winter of '48, and raged with such violence through '49, 
 is too familiar to everybody to need repeating here. Only 
 as it affected the fortunes of Oregon need it be mentioned. 
 
SUDDEN PROSPERITY OF OREGON. 
 
 485 
 
 Its immediate effect was to give an impetus to business in 
 the Territory which nothing else ever could have done; 
 to furnish a market for all sorts of produce, and employ- 
 ment for every kind of industry, to bring money into cir- 
 culation in place of wheat and beaver-skins, and for a time 
 to make the country extremely prosperous. 
 
 One of the last acts of the Provisional Government had 
 been to authorize the weighing, assaying, and coining of 
 gold — an act which was rendered necessary by the great 
 amount of "dust" in circulation, and the influx of the 
 debased South American coins. An association of gen- 
 tlemen taking the matter in hand, bore all the expense of 
 the dies, machinery, and labor, coining only about ten 
 thousand dollars in the summer of '49. They succeeded 
 ill raising the price of " dust " from eleven to sixteen dol- 
 lars per ounce, and stopping 
 the influx of South Ameri- 
 can coins. The gentlemen 
 who conferred a great bene- 
 fit on Oregon, were Kil- 
 borne, Magruder, Rector, 
 Campbell, and Smith. This money went by the name of 
 "Beaver- money," owing to the design on the dies, which 
 referred to the previous beaver currency. 
 
 But the ultimate effect of the California gold discove- 
 ries was to put a check upon the prosperity of Oregon. 
 The emigration from the states, instead of going to Oregon 
 as formerly, now turned off to California. Men soon dis- 
 covered the fertile quality of California soil, and while the 
 majority dug for gold a sufficient 'jumber went to farming 
 to make, together with the imports from the east, almost 
 a supply for the yearly hordes of gold seekers. The fame 
 of the ■ California climate, the fascinations of the ups and 
 
 BEAVER-MONEY. 
 
486 
 
 GILIDUAL RELAPSE AND THE CAUSE. 
 
 w:^ 
 
 m I 
 
 t 
 
 downs of fortune's wheel in that country, and many other 
 causes, united to make California, and not Oregon, the 
 object of interest on the Pacific coast ; and the rapidity 
 with which California became selt-supporting removed from 
 Oregon her importance as a source of supplies. There- 
 fore, after a few years of rather extraordinary usefulness 
 and consequent good fortune, the Territory relapsed into 
 a purely domestic and very quiet young State, This 
 change in its federal status was not altogether acceptable 
 to Oregonians. They had so long been accustomed to 
 regard themselves as the pets of a great and generous, 
 but rather neglectful Republic, from whose hands all man- 
 ner of favors were to be of right demanded, because they 
 had sustained for so long a time the character of good 
 children, without any immediate reward — that now when 
 a rival darling sprang into vigorous life and excessive fa- 
 vor, almost at once, their jealousy rankled painfully. So 
 naughty and disagreeable a passion as jealousy is its own 
 punishment, as the Oregonian of to-day would do well to 
 remember, while he does what he can to show to the world 
 that his State, by its splendid resources, fully justifies all the 
 outlay of patriotism and ardor which distinguished its 
 early history. 
 
 But to return to our mutton. Although Gov. Lane 
 did not find an Indian war on his hands immediately on 
 assuming the duties of his ofl&ce, there was yet plenty to 
 do in getting the government organized, appointing offi- 
 cers to take the census, ordering elections, and getting the 
 run of Oregon politics, to occupy his .attention for the 
 first three months of his administration. 
 
 The change in the government had not by any means 
 changed the objects and aims of the different parties in 
 Oregon. Now, as before, there was a Mission party, 
 strong in money and influence ; now, as before, the term 
 
THE THREE PARTIES. 
 
 • ;!• 
 
 487 
 
 "Hudson's Bay man" was used by the Mission party to 
 bring odium upon any aspirant to office, or even business 
 success, who, not being intimidated by their interdict, 
 'f'litured to be employed professionally by Dr. McLaugh- 
 lin, or in any way to show regard for him. As there were 
 always a certain number independent enough to act from 
 free will or conviction, there was in consequence still a 
 Hudson's Bay party. Between these two, as before, there 
 stood a third party, who added itself to or subtracted it- 
 self from the other two, as its purposes and interests 
 required. As there were haters of Dr. McLaughlin in 
 two of the parties it did not require a great amount of 
 shrewdness to inform a man that on this point might turn 
 his political fortunes. 
 
 This discovery was made very early after his arrival in 
 the Territory by Gov. Lane, as well as by Judge Bryant, 
 and others, and used at times by them when there was an 
 object to be gained by it, although neither of these dig- 
 nitaries declared themselves openly as good haters of the 
 Doctor. 
 
 Dr. McLaughlin, on the settlement of the boundary 
 question, seeing that the London Company found much 
 fault with him for having "encouraged the settlement of 
 Oregon by the Americans," went to England to see the 
 Directors and have the matter understood between himself 
 aiul them. Finding on hearing his explanation, that while 
 doing nothing to encourage settlement, he could not per- 
 mit the immigrants of the first few years to suifer after 
 their arrival, and that out of charity only he had done 
 what was done for their relief, the Company still blamed 
 him, the Doctor then said to the Directors, " Gentlemen, 
 I will serve you no longer." Sixty thousand dollars, ex- 
 pended in helping American settlers was charged to his 
 private account. This amount was afterwards remitted, 
 but the debt was heavily felt at the time. 
 
488 
 
 DR. MCLAUGHLIN — NE*V COMPLICATIONS. 
 
 On his return to Oregon, and en the establishment of a 
 Territorial government, the Doctor determined to take out 
 naturalization papers, and become an American citizen. 
 But no sooner had the government been organized than 
 new complications arose in the Doctor's case. Judge 
 Bryant had been but a few days in the Territory before he 
 purchased from the Mission Milling Company the Island in 
 the river opposite Oregon City, which was occupied by 
 their mills, but which formed a part of the original claim 
 of Dr. McLaughlin. Thus the Chief Justice assumed at 
 once the, same attitude towards him which the Mission and 
 the Milling Company had done ; and as the island was 
 contained in Judge Bryant's district, and only two Judges 
 were at that time in the Territory, the Doctor felt con- 
 strained to seek advice from such Americans as were his 
 friends. Although some believed that his best chance of 
 holding his original claim, was to depend upon his posses- 
 sory rights under the treaty of 1846, others counseled 
 him to take out his naturalization papers and secure him- 
 self in the rights of an American citizen. This he did at 
 last, on the 30th of May, 1849. 
 
 We have spoken in a previous chapter of Mr. Thurston, 
 in connection with the Donation Act, It is related of this 
 gentleman that when he left Iowa for Oregon, he confided 
 to his personal friends his resolve to be "in Congress or in 
 — " two years after reaching that Territory. Like other 
 ambitious new-comers, he soon discovered what side to 
 take with certain influential persons, concerning the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company^ which was but another name for Dr. 
 McLaughlin. 
 
 Mr. Thurston did not hesitate to ask the Doctor to vote 
 for him, for delegate to Congress, which, however, the 
 Doctor did not do, as one of his friends was up for the 
 same office. But when he was finally elected to Congress, 
 
 .'MYlIt fW^ .J J' 
 
 
THE NEW DELEGATE TO C0.WRE8S. 
 
 489 
 
 fortunately within the two years to which he had limited 
 himsell— Mr. Thurston took ground which betrayed by 
 what influences he had been placed in the coveted position. 
 
 Mr. Thornton having returned to Oregon sometime in 
 May had made the acquaintance of the candidate for Con- 
 gress, and feeling some anxiety with regard to the Land 
 Bill, which he had expended considerable thought and 
 labor upon, conversed freely with Mr. Thurston upon the 
 subject, and finally, rd his election, presented him with a 
 copy of his bill ; the same, with certain alterations, that 
 could not strictly be called amendments, which afterwards 
 became the Donation Law. 
 
 But the notable section of Mr. Thurston's bill, which 
 finally became a law, was that one which was intended to 
 secure him future political favors, by earning him the grat- 
 itude of the anti-Hudson's Bay party, and all others whose 
 private interests he subserved. This was the section 
 wiiich exempted from the benefits of the act the Oregon 
 City claim, in the following words. " That there be, and 
 hereby is granted to the Territory of Oregon, two town- 
 ships, one north and one south of the Columbia River, to 
 aid in establishing a University, to be selected by the 
 Assembly, and approved by the Surveyor General. Also 
 the Oregon City claim, except those lo.'s sold previous to 
 March Uh, 1849." 
 
 In order to secure the passage of this part of the land 
 bill, Mr. Thurston addressed a letter to the House of Rep- 
 resentatives, of which he was a member, containing the 
 following assertions : — that it was the Methodist Mission 
 which first took the Oregon City claim ; that they were 
 driven from it by a fear of having the savages of Oregon 
 let loose upon them ; that a number of citizens of Oregon 
 had been successively driven from it, by the power of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company; that Dr. McLaughlin had al- 
 
 I 
 
 
 
400 
 
 STORY OF THE DONATION ACT. 
 
 I 1 
 
 If' I 
 
 m- - I 
 
 ready sold lots to the amount of $200,000, enongli for a 
 foreigner to make out of American territory ; and that 
 the Doctor had not taken out naturalization papers, but 
 was an Englishman at heart, and still identified with the 
 Hudson's Bay Company. Mr. Thurston's letter contained 
 many more assertions equally false — but those just given 
 relate more particularly to the eleventh section, of the Do- 
 nation Act. 
 
 Mr, Thurston's reason for asking to have all sales of lots 
 made before the fourth of March, 1849, confirmed, he de- 
 clared to be to prevent litigation. Dr. McLaughhn, he 
 said, ought to be made to pay for those lots, but '"not 
 wishing to create any litigation, the committee concluded 
 to quiet the whole matter by confirming those lots." 
 
 He further stated that the Doctor had upon the Oregon 
 City claim " a flouring mill, granaries, two double saw- 
 mills, a large number of houses, stores, and other buildings, 
 to which he may be entitled by virtue of his possessory 
 rights under the treaty of 1846. For only a part of the?e 
 improvements, which he may thus hold, he has been urged 
 during the past year to take $250,000." 
 
 Mr. Thurston sees no harm in taking this property, so 
 valuable in his estimation, which comprises the earnings 
 of a whole life-time spent in devotion to business in an 
 Indian country, away from all that men commonly esteem 
 desirable, from the proper owner. On the contrary he 
 makes an eloquent appeal to the House to save this valu- 
 able estate to the people of Oregon wherewith to educate 
 the rising generations. 
 
 Still further, so great is his fear that some portion of his 
 property may be left to the Doctor, he asks that the Island 
 portion of the claim, which he confesses is only a pile of 
 rocks, of no value except for the improvements on it, may 
 be " confirmed to George Abernethy, his heirs or assigns;'' 
 
BTOllY OF THE DONATION ACT. 
 
 491 
 
 iissigning as a reason that when the mission was driven 
 from Oregon City, it took refuge on this pile of rocks, 
 luul having built a mill, afterwards sold it to Mr. Aber- 
 uetliy, one of the stockholders. Nothing is said about the 
 mill having been resold to Judge Bryant ; but Judge Bry- 
 luit could not object to having the Island confirmed to 
 liiiu through Mr. Abernethy. 
 
 And here we may as well sever one of the threads in 
 our story. When it became known that by an act of Con- 
 gress Oregon City was reserved from the right of even an 
 American citizen to claim, and that only after years of 
 waiting would the title by possessory right be settled 
 either for or against him, the old Doctor's heart was broken. 
 He still continued to reside upon his claim, but the 
 uncertainty of title prevented any sales of property. The 
 ingratitude of those whom he had assisted when assistance 
 was life itself to them, their refusals to pay what had been 
 lent thom, and their constant calumniations, so bore upon 
 his spirits that his strength failed rapidly under them, and 
 for the last few years of his life he fancied himself reduced 
 to poverty, though he was still in possession of his im- 
 provements. 
 
 An example of the extent to which r,ome men carried 
 their anti-McLaughlin principles may be fo' r*^ in the fol- 
 lowing story which was related to us by t-i o gentleman 
 mentioned in it. The doctor one day stood upon the 
 street conversing with Mr. Thornton, who had been his 
 legal adviser in some instances, another gentleman also 
 being present. Their conversation was rudely interrupted 
 by a fourth individual, who set upon Mr. Thornton with 
 every manner of abuse and vile epithet for being seen in 
 communication with the " old Hudson's Bay, Jes- 
 uitical rascal," and much more to the same effect. To this 
 assault, Thornton, who had a great command of language, 
 
492 
 
 DEATH OF Dll. MCLAUGHLIN. 
 
 NI 
 
 replied in a manner which sent the man about his business 
 Then turning to the Doctor, he said : 
 
 " Doctor, 1 will lay a wager that man is one of your 
 debtors, who never intends to pay, and takes it out in 
 abuse." 
 
 " Yes, yes," answered the Doctor, trying to suppress his 
 nervousness ; " when he came to Oregon he was naked 
 and hungry. I gave him assistance to the amount of four 
 hundred dollars. He is rich now ; has land and herds, 
 and everything in abundance ; but he hates me on ac- 
 count of that four hundred dollars. That is the way with 
 most of them !" . , . 
 
 Dr. McLaughlin died September, 18 nd is buried in 
 the Catholic church-yard in Oregon City. Five years after 
 his death the State of Oregon restored to his heirs the 
 property which it had so long wrongfully withheld. As 
 for the demagogue who embittered the last days of a good 
 man, for political advancement, he did not live to enjoy 
 his reward. His health, delicate at the best, was very 
 much undermined at last by discovering that he received 
 more blame than praise, even among his former supporters, 
 for the eleventh section of the Donation Law. He be- 
 came very ill on his return, and died at Acapulco, Mexico, 
 without reaching home. 
 
 Very many persons have confirmed what his admirer, 
 Meek, says of Dr. McLaughlin, that he deserved to be 
 called the Father of Oregon. 
 
 ; I. n 
 
 .f'-.-i <■• 
 
 '■ ■ .n . •> ■ ' t • 1 • ■ 1- 
 
MAGNANIMITY OF THE CAYUSi] CHIEFS. 
 
 493 
 
 CHAPTER XLIIL 
 
 1850-4. The Territorial law of Oregon combined the 
 olTices of Governor and Indian Agent. One of the most 
 important acts which marked Lane's administration was 
 that of securing and punishing ihe murderers of Dr. and 
 Mrs. Whitman. The Indians of the Cayuse tribe to whom 
 the murderers belonged, were assured that the only way 
 in which they could avoid a war with the whites was to 
 deliver up the chiefs who had been engaged in the massacre, 
 to be tried and punished according to the laws of the 
 whites. Of the two hundred Indians implicated in the 
 massacre, five were given up to be dealt with according to 
 law. These were the five chiefs, Te-lou-i-kite, Tam-ahas, 
 Klok-a-mas, Ki-am-a-sump-hin^ and I-sa-i-a-cha-lahis. 
 
 These men might have made their escape ; the? e was 
 no imperative necessity upon them to suffer death, had 
 they chosen to flee to the mountains. But with that 
 strange magnanimity which the savage often shows, to the 
 astonishment of Christians, they resolved to die for their 
 people rather than by their flight to involve them in 
 war. 
 
 Early in the summer of 1850, the prisoners were deli v. 
 ered up to Gov. Lane, and brought down to Oregon City, 
 where they were given into the keeping of the marshal. 
 During their passage down the river, and while they were 
 incarcerated at Oregon City, their bearing was most proud 
 and haughty. Some food, more choice than their prison- 
 er's fare, being offered to one of the chiefs at a camp of 
 
 ''«'i' 
 
 
 
 
494 
 
 PilOUD BEARING OF THE PRISONERS. 
 
 iV 
 
 i I 
 
 ^ 
 
 ! i 
 
 the guard, in their transit down the Columbia, the proud 
 savage rejected it with scorn. 
 
 ''What sort of heart have you," he asked, "that you 
 offer food to me, whose hands are red with your brothers 
 blood?" 
 
 And this, after eleven years of missionary labor, -was all 
 the comprehension the savage nature knew of the main 
 principle of Christianity, — forgiveness, or charity toward 
 our enemies. . , ,^^_ ^, 
 
 At Oregon City, Meek had many converiiations willi 
 them. In all of these they save but one explanation of 
 their crime. They feared that Dr. Whitman intended, 
 with the other whites, to take their laud from them; and 
 they were told by Jo Lewis, the half-breed, that the Doc- 
 tor's medicine was intended to kill them off quickly, in 
 order the sooner to get possession of their country. None 
 of them expressed any sorrow for what had been done; 
 but one of them, Ki-am-a-sump-km, declared his inno- 
 cence to the last. 
 
 In conversations with others, curious to "-ain some 
 knowledge of the savage moral nature, Te-hu-i Jcf'te oiien 
 puzzled these students of Indian ethics. When ques- 
 tioned as to his motive for allowing himself to be taken, 
 Te-lou-i-kite answered : 
 
 "Did not your missionaries tell us that Christ died to 
 save his people? So die we, to save our people!'" 
 
 Notwithstanding the prisoners were pre-doomed to 
 death, a regular form of trial was gone through. The 
 Prosecuting Attorney for the Territory, A. Ilolbrook, con- 
 ducted the prosecution : Secretary Pritchett, Major Run- 
 nels, and Captain Claiborne, the defence. The fee of- 
 fered by the chiefs was fifty head of horses. Whether it 
 was compassion, or a love of horses which animated the 
 
 ■u 
 
fERS. 
 
 MEEK S DESCRIPTION OF THE TRIAL. 
 
 495 
 
 mbia, the proud 
 
 ?ked, "that you 
 h your brother's 
 
 jy labor, was all 
 ew of the main 
 ' charity toward 
 
 ivensations ■vvitli 
 J explanation of 
 itman intended, 
 rom them; and 
 d, that the Doc- 
 Li off quickly, in 
 country. None 
 lad been done; 
 ;lared his inno- 
 
 to ""ain some 
 hlou-'i Jc/te often 
 When qiies- 
 2lf to be taken, 
 
 ". Christ died to 
 
 ^eople!'' 
 
 pre-doomed to 
 
 through. The 
 
 Ilolbrook, con- 
 
 tt, Major Run- 
 
 ). The fee of- 
 
 fcs. Whether it 
 
 I animated the 
 
 defence, quite an effort was made to shovv that the mur- 
 derers were not guilty. 
 
 The presiding Justice was 0. C. Pratt — Bryant having 
 resigned. Perhaps we cannot do better than to give the 
 Marshal's own description of the trial and execution, 
 which is as follows: "Thar war a great many indict- 
 ments, and a great many people in attendance at this 
 court. The Grand Jury found true bills against the five 
 Indians, and they war arraigned for trial. Captain Clai- 
 borne led off for the defence. He foamed and ranted 
 like he war acting a play in some theatre. He knew 
 about as much law as one of the Indians he war defend 
 ing ; and his gestures were so powerful that he smashed 
 two tumblers that the Judge had ordered to be filled with 
 cold Y/ater for him. After a time he gave out mentally 
 and physically. Then came Major Runnels, who made a 
 very good defence. But the Marshal thought they must 
 do better, for they would never ride fifty head of horses 
 with them speeches. 
 
 Mr. Pritcheti closed for the defence with a very able 
 argument ; for he war a man of brains. But then followed 
 Mr. Holbrook, for the prosecution, and he laid down the 
 case so plain that the jury were convinced before they 
 left the jury-box. When the J dge passed sentence of 
 death on them, two of the chie*'^ showed no terror; but 
 the other three were filled witn horror and consternation 
 that they could not conceal. 
 
 After court had adjourned, and Gov. Lane war gone 
 South on .^ome business with the Rogue River Indians, 
 Secretary Pritchett came to me and told me that as he 
 war now acting Governor he meant to reprieve the In- 
 dians. Said he to me, ' Now Meek, I want you to liber* 
 ate them Indians, when you receive the order.' 
 
 ■AvM"44 
 
496 
 
 THE EXECUTION. 
 
 ( 
 
 1 ! 
 
 . 'Pritchett,' said I, 'so far as Meek is concerned he 
 would do anything for you.' 
 
 This talk pleased him; he said he 'war glad to hear it' 
 and would go right off' and write the reprieve.' 
 
 'But,' said I, 'Pritchett, let us talk now like men. I 
 have got in my pocket the death-warrant of them Indians 
 signed by Gov. Lane. The Marshal will execute them 
 men, as certain as the day arrives.' 
 
 Pritchett looked surprised, and remarked — 'That war 
 not what you just said, that you would do anything for 
 ine.' , . n . 
 
 Said I, 'you were talking then to Meek, — not to the 
 Marshal, who always does his duty.' At that he got mad 
 and left. .- . , 
 
 When the 3d of June, the day of execution, arrived, 
 Oregon City was thronged with people to witness it. 1 
 brought forth the five prisoners and placed them on a 
 drop. Here the chief, who always declared his innocence, 
 Ki-am-i-sump-kin^ begged me to kill him with my knife,— 
 for an Indian fears to be hanged, — but I soon put an end 
 to his entreaties by cutting the rope which held the drop, 
 with my tomahawk. As I said ' The Lord have mercy on 
 your souls,' the trap fell, and the five Cayuses hung in 
 the air. Three of them died instantly. The other two 
 struggled for several minutes ; the Little Chief, Tam-a-lm^ 
 the longest. It was he who was cruel to my little girl at 
 the time of the massacre; so I just put my foot on the 
 knot to tighten it, and he got quiet. After thirty-five 
 minutes they were taken down and buried." 
 *" Thus terminated a tragic chapter in the history of Ore- 
 gon. Among the services which Thurston performed for 
 the Territory, was getting an appropriation of $100,000, 
 to pay the expenses? of the Cayuse war. From the Spring 
 of 1848, when all the whites, except the Catholic mission- 
 aries, were withdrawn from the upper country, for a pe- 
 
 '». ! 
 
STATE OF THE UPPER COUNTRY. 
 
 497 
 
 is concerned, he 
 
 liod of several years, or until Government had made 
 treaties with the tribes east of the Cascades, no settlers 
 were permitted to take up land in Eastern Oregon. Dur- 
 iii<T those years, the Indians, dissatisfied with the encroach- 
 ments which they foresaw the whites wo'Jd finally make 
 upon tlieir countr}', and incited by ceilain individuals who 
 had sullered wrongs, or been punished for their own of- 
 fences at the hands of the whites, finally combined, as it 
 was supposed from the extent of the insurrection, and 
 Oregoi was involved in a three years Indian war, the his- 
 tory of which would fill a volume of considerable size. 
 
 When Meek returned to Oregon as marshal, with his 
 fine clothes and his newly acquired social accomplish- 
 ments, he was greeted with a cordial acknowledgment of 
 liis services, as well as admiration f r his improved appear- 
 ance. He was generally acknowledged to be the iiiodel 
 of a handsome marshal, whn clad in his half-military 
 dress, and placed astride of a line horso. in the execution 
 of the more festive duties of marslial of a procession ou 
 some patriotic occasion. J' ' 
 
 But no amount of official responsibility could ever 
 change him from a wag into a "grave and everend 
 seignior." No place nor occasion was sacred to iiim when 
 the wild humor was on him. 
 
 At this satne term of court, after the conviction r" the 
 Cay use chiefs, there was a case before Judge dt, in 
 which a mpn was charged with selling liquor to the In- 
 dians. In these cases Indian evidence was allowed, but 
 the jury-room being up stairs, caused a good deal of 
 annoyance in court ; because when an Indian witness was 
 wanted up stairs, a dozen or more who were not wanted 
 would follow. The Judge's bench was so placed that it 
 commanded a full view of the staircase and every one 
 passing up or down it. 
 A call for some witness to go before the jury was fol 
 
 ;,? ■■ Si,! !1 , ,, 
 
498 
 
 SCENE IN A COURT-ROOM. 
 
 ' i ' I r. 
 
 ! 
 
 1 
 
 ^ip^-' " 
 
 \ ' 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 • 
 
 lowed on this occasion, as on all others, by a general rush 
 of the Indians, \ ho were curious to witness the proceed- 
 ings. One fat old squaw had got part way up the stairs, 
 when the Marshal, full of wrath, seized her by a leg and 
 dragged her down flat, at the same time holding the fat 
 
 MEEK AS UNITED STATES MARSHAL. 
 
 member so that it was pointed directly toward the Judge. 
 A general explosion followed this pointed action, and the 
 Judge grew very red in the face. 
 
 "Mr. Marshal, come within the bar!" thundered the 
 Judge. 
 
 Meek complied, with a very dubious expression of 
 countenance. 
 
 "I must fine you fifty dollars," continued the Judge; 
 "the dignity of the Court must be maintained." 
 
 When court had adjourned that evening, the Judge 
 and the Marshal were walking toward their respective 
 lodgings. Said Meek to his Honor : ^h\':, 
 
JUDGE NKLSON AND THE CAllPENTEllS. 
 
 499 
 
 ard the Judge, 
 action, and the 
 
 thundered the 
 
 "Why dif^ you fine me so heavily to-day?" "^ 
 
 " I must do .L," returned the Judge. " I must keep up 
 the dignity of the Court ; I must do it, if I pay the fines 
 myself." " ' ' ...,;,;.. 
 
 "And you must pay all the fines you lay on the marshal, 
 of course," answered Meek. 
 
 "Very well," said the Judge; "I shall do so." 
 
 "All right, Judge. As I am the proper disbursing 
 officer, you can pay that fifty dollars to me — and I'll take 
 it now." >;:V;7:-: 
 
 At this view^ of the case, his Honor was staggered for 
 one moment, and could only swing his cane and laugh 
 faintly. After a little reflection, he said : 
 
 " Marshal, when court is called to-morrow, I shall remit 
 vour fine ; but don't you let me have occasion to fine you 
 
 agani 
 
 I" 
 
 After the removal of the capital to Salem, in 1852, 
 court was held in a new building, on which the carpenters 
 were still at work. Judge Nelson, then presiding, was 
 much put out by the noise of hammers, and sent the 
 marshal more than once, to request the men to suspend 
 their work during those hours when court was in session, 
 but all to no purpose. Finally, when his forbearance was 
 quite exhausted, he appealed to the marshal for advice. 
 
 "What shall I do, Meek," said he, "to stop that in- 
 fernal noise?" 
 
 "Put the workmen on the Grand Jury," replied Meek, 
 
 " Summon them instantly !" returned the Judge. They 
 were summoned, and quiet secured for that terra. 
 
 At this same term of court, a great many of the foreign 
 born settlers appeared, to file their intention of becoming 
 American citizens, in order to secure the benefits of the 
 Donation Law. Meek was retained as a witness, to swear 
 to their qualifications, one of which was, that they were 
 
 n-.-j 
 
500 
 
 THE OREGON COURT ON AN EXCURSION. 
 
 I I 
 
 I I 
 
 possessed of good moral characters. The first day there 
 were about two hundred who made declarations, Meek 
 witnessing for most of them. On the day following, he 
 declined serving any longer. 
 
 "What now?" inquired the Judge; "you made no 
 objections yesterday." 
 
 "Very true," replied Meek; "and two hundred lies 
 are enough for me. I swore that all those mountain-men 
 were of 'good moral character,' and I never knew a 
 mountain-man of that description in my life ! Let Newell 
 take the job for to-day." 
 
 The "job" was turned over to Newell; but whether 
 the second lot was better than the first, has never trans- 
 pired. 
 
 During Lane's administration, there was a murder com- 
 mitted by a party of Indians at the Sound, on the person 
 of a Mr. Wallace. Owing to the sparse settlement of the 
 country. Governor Lane adopted the original measure of 
 exporting not only the officers of the court, but the jury 
 also, to the Sound district. Meek was ordered to find 
 transportation for the court in toto, jury and all. Boats 
 were hired and provisioned to take the party to the 
 Cowelitz Landing, and from thence to Fort Steilacoom, 
 horses were hired for the land transportation. 
 
 The Indians accused were five in number — two chiefs 
 and three slaves. The Grand Jury found a true bill 
 against the two chiefs, and let the slaves go. So few 
 were the inhabitants of those parts, that the marshal was 
 obliged to take a part of the grand jury to serve on the 
 petite jury. The form of a trial was gone through with, 
 the Judge delivered his charge, and the jury retired. 
 
 It was just after night-fall when these worthies betook 
 themselves to the jury-room. One of them curled him- 
 self up in a corner of the room, with the injunction to 
 
- ■■^TT.'J -T^i* ■^I'rf.'ir; 
 
 THE CHIEF S WIFE. 
 
 501 
 
 the others to " wake him up when they got ready to hang 
 
 ihein rascals." The rest of the party spent four 
 
 or five hours betting against monte, when, being sleepy 
 also, they waked up their associate, spent about ten min- 
 utes in arguing their convictions, and returned a verdict 
 of "guilty of murder in the first degree." 
 
 The Indians were sentenced to be hung at noon on the 
 following day, and the marshal was at work early in the 
 morning preparing a gallows. A rope was procured 
 from a ship lying in the sound. At half-past eleven 
 o'clock, guarded by a company of artillery from the fort, 
 the miserable savages were marched forth to die. A 
 large number of Indians were collected to witness the 
 execution ; and to prevent any attempt at rescue. Captain 
 Hill's artillery formed a ring around the marshal and his 
 prisoners. The execution was interrupted or delayed for 
 some moments, on account of the frantic behavior of an 
 Indian woman, wife of one of the chiefs, whose entreaties 
 for the life of her husband were very affecting. Having 
 exhausted all her eloquence in an appeal to the nobler 
 feelings of the man, she finally promised to leave her 
 husband and become his wife, if he, the marshal, would 
 spare her lord and chief. cr; ^,.! ^^ 
 
 She was carried forcibly out of the ring, and the hang- 
 ing took place. When the bodies were taken down, 
 Meek spoke to the woman, telling her that now she could 
 have her husband ; but she only sullenly replied, " You 
 have killed him, and you may bury him." 
 
 This excursion of the Oregon court footed up a sum of 
 about $4,000, of which the marshal paid $1,000 out of 
 his own pocket. When, in the following year. Lane was 
 sent to Congress, Meek urged him to ask for an appropri- 
 ation to pay up the debt. Lane made no efibrt to do so, 
 
 
502 
 
 LANES CAREER IN OREGON. 
 
 probably because lie did not care to liuvc the illegality of 
 the proceeding commented upon. 
 
 Lane's career in Oregon, before the breaking out of the 
 rebellion, the betrayal of his secession proclivities, and 
 supposed actual conspiracy against the Government, was 
 that of a successful politician. Having been appointed 
 so near the close of Polk's administration, he was sue- 
 ceeded, on the coming into office of General Taylor, by 
 General John P. Gaines, who arrived in Oregon in xiugust, 
 1850. In 1851, General Lane was elected delegate to 
 Congress, and returned to Oregon as Governor, by Frank- 
 lin Pierce, in 1853. He was appointed in March, arrived 
 at Salem May 16th, resigned the 19th, was elected to 
 Congress July 7th, returning again to Oregon, where he 
 at present resides, on the expiration of his terra. His 
 mileage alone amounted to $10,000, besides the expenses 
 of his first overland journey. John W. Davis was next 
 appointed Governor, by President Pierce. He arrived in 
 Salem April 1st, 1854, and resigned in August. A trip 
 to Oregon, with the mileage, appeared to be quite the 
 fashion of territorial times. 
 
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 iqq?.;!-- vi^Mfff^i 
 
~f '•'' 
 
 MEEK AS UNITED STATES MAltSlIAL. 
 
 503 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 
 While Meek was in Washington, he had been dubbed 
 with the title of Colonel, which title he still bears, though 
 during the Indian war of 1855-56, it was alternated with 
 that of Major, During his marshalship he was fond of 
 showing off his titles and authority to the discomfiture of 
 that class of people who had '' put on airs " with him 
 in former days, when he was in his transition stage from 
 a trapper to a United States Marshal. 
 
 While Pratt was Judge of the District Court, a kidnap- 
 ing case came before him. The writ of habeas corpus 
 having been disregarded by the Captain of the Melvin^ 
 who was implicated in the business. Meek was sent to 
 arrest him, and also the first mate. Five of the Melviii's 
 sailors were ordered to be summoned as witnesses, at the 
 same time. 
 
 Meek went on board with his summons, marched for- 
 ward, and called out the names of the men. Every man 
 came up as he was summoned. When they were together, 
 Meek ordered a boat lowered for their conveyance to 
 Oregon City. The men started to obey, when the Cap- 
 tain interfered, saying that the boat should not be taken 
 for such a purpose, as it belonged to him. 
 
 " That is of no consequence at all," answered the smiling 
 marshal. " It is a very good boat, and will suit our pur- 
 pose very well. Lower away, men ■" 
 
 Th.} men quickly dropped the boat. As it fell, they 
 
 
504 
 
 THE CAPTAIN OF THE MELVIN. 
 
 were ordered to man it. When they were at the oars 
 the mate was then invited to take a seat in it, wliicli he 
 did, after a moment's hesitation, and glaneing at his supe- 
 rior officer. Meek then turned to the Captain, and ex- 
 tended the same invitation to him. But he was reluctant 
 to accept the courtesy, blustering considerably, and de- 
 claring his intention to remain where he was. Meek 
 slowly drew his revolver, all the time cool and smiling. 
 
 " I don't like having to urge a gentleman too hard," 
 he said, in a meaning tone ; *' but thar is an argument 
 that few men ever resist. Take a seat. Captain." 
 
 The Captain took a seat ; the idlers on shore cheered 
 for "Joe Meek" — which was, after all, his most familiar 
 title ; the Captain and mate went to Oregon City, and 
 were fined respectively $500 and $300 ; the men took 
 advantage of being on shore to desert ; and altogether, 
 the master of the Melvin felt himself badly used. 
 
 About the same time news was received that a British 
 vessel was unloading goods for the Hudson's Bay Com- 
 pany, somewhere on Puget Sound. Under the new order 
 of aifairs in Oregon, this was smuggling. Delighted with 
 an opportunity of doing the United States a service, and 
 the British traders an ill turn. Marshal Meek immediately 
 summoned a iwsse of men and started for the Sound. On 
 his way he learned the name of the vessel and Captain, 
 and recognized them as having been in the Columbia 
 River some years before. On that occasion the Captain 
 had ordered Meek ashore, when, led by his curiosity and 
 general love of novelty, he had paid a visit to this vessel. 
 This information v7as " nuts" to the marshal, who believed 
 that "a turn about was fair play." 
 
 With great ' dispatch and secrecy he arrived entirely 
 unexpected at the point where the vessel was lying, and 
 proceeded to board her without loss of time. The Cap- 
 
AIIUEST OF A BRITISH SMUGGLER. 
 
 505 
 
 ' I'IBIV . Vifi 
 
 Captain, and ex- 
 
 tain and ofBcors were taken by snrpriso and wore all 
 u^'luist at tliis unlookod for appearance. But after the 
 iiirit moment of agitation was over, the Captain recognized 
 Meek, ho being a man not likely to bo forgotten, and 
 ihiiikingto turn this circumstance to advantage, approach- 
 ed liini with the blandest of smiles and the most cordial 
 luiunier, saying with forced frankness — 
 
 " I am sure I have had the i)lcasure of meeting you be- 
 fore. You must have been at Vancouver when my ves- 
 sel was in the river, seven or eight years ago. I am very 
 li;i})py to have met with you again." • ' 
 
 "Thar is some truth in that remark of yours, Captain," 
 replied Meek, eyeing him with lofty scorn; "you did 
 meet me at Vancouver several years ago. But I was 
 nothing but ' Joe Meek ' at that time, and you ordered me 
 ashore. Circumstances are changed since then. I am 
 now Colonel Joseph L. Meek, United States Marshal for 
 Oregon Territory ; and you sir, are only a smug- 
 gler! Go ashore, sir!" 
 
 The Captain saw the point of that concluding '^ go 
 asliorc, sir !" and obeyed with quite as bad a grace as ' Joe 
 Meek ' had done in the first instance. 
 
 The vessel was confiscated and sold, netting to the Gov- 
 ernment about $40,000, above expenses. This money, 
 which fell into bad hands, failed to be accounted for. 
 Nobody suspected the integrity of the marshal, but most 
 persons suspected that ho placed too much confidence in 
 tlie District Attorney, who had charge of his accounts. 
 On some one asking him, a short time after, what had be- 
 come of the money from the sale of the smuggler, he 
 seemed struck with a sudden surprise: 
 
 '^Why," said he, looking astonished at the question, 
 "tliar was barly enough for the officers of the court!" 
 
 This answer, given as it was, with such apparent simplic- 
 
 I 
 
500 
 
 MISPLACED CONFIDENCE AND THE RESULT. 
 
 ity, 1)cciime a popular joke ; and " barly enough" \v(yj 
 quoted on all occasions. ■ n. m, i. 
 
 The truth was, that there was a serious deficiency in 
 Meck's account with the Goverinncnt, resulting entirely 
 from his want of confidence in his own literary accom- 
 jjlishments, which led him to trust all his con cppondena' 
 and his accounts to the hands of a man whose talents were 
 more eminent than his sense of honor. The result of this 
 misplaced confidence was a loss to the Government, and 
 to himself, whom the Government held accountable. Con- 
 trarv to the general rule of disbursing officers, ilie office 
 made him poor instead of rich ; and when on the incom- 
 ing of the Pierce administration he suffered dt.npitation 
 along with the other Territorial officers, he Wa.^ lorced to 
 retire upon his farm on the Tualatin Plains, and become a 
 rather indifferent tiller of the earth. ^ ^' - .iuir. %,(. 
 
 The breaking out of the Indian war of 1855-6, was 
 preceded by a long period of uneasiness among the Indi- 
 ans generally. The large emigration which crossed the 
 plains every year for California and Oregon was one cause 
 of the disturbance ; not only by exciting their fears for 
 the possession of their lands, but by the temptation which 
 was offered them to take toll of the travelers. Difficulties 
 occurred at first between the emigrants and Indians con- 
 cerning stolen property. These quarrels were followed, 
 probably the subsequent year, by outrages and murder 
 on the part of the Indians, and retaliation on the parr of 
 volunteer soldiers from Oregon. When once this system 
 of outrage and retaliation on either side, was begun, there 
 was an end of security, and war followed as an inevitable 
 consequence. Very horrible indeed were the acts per- 
 petrated by the Indians upon the emigrants to Oregon, 
 during the years from 1852 to 1858. 
 . But when at last the call to arms was made in Oregon, 
 
INOTAX DI8TUUBANCES — THE AGENT MUIIDEUED. 
 
 507 
 
 y enough" was 
 
 lade in Oregon, 
 
 it ^as iiH o[)portunity - )Ug]it, and not an jiltornativo 
 forced u[)<jn thuin, by tlio politicians of that Territory. 
 The occasion was simply tiiis. A party of hiwless wretclied 
 from tiio Sound Country, passing over the Cascade Moun- 
 tains into the Yakima Valley, on their way to the Upper 
 ('oliiinhia mines, found some Yakima women digging roots 
 ill a lonely place, and abused them. The women fled to 
 thoir village and told the chiefs of the outrage ; and a party 
 followed the guilty whites and killed several of them in u 
 
 light. 
 
 Mr. Bolin, the Indian sub-agent for Washington went 
 to the Yakima village, and instead of judging of the case 
 iinpiu'tially, made use of threats in the nanie of the United 
 Slates Government, saying that an army should be sent to 
 pmiisii them for killing his people. On his return home, 
 Mr, IJoiin was followed and murdered. 
 
 Tiie murder of an Indian agent was an act which could 
 not be overlooked. Very properly, the case should have 
 been taken notice of in a manner to convince the Indians 
 that murder must be punished. But, tempted by an op- 
 portunity for gain, and encouraged by the somewhat rea- 
 sonable fears of the white population of Washington and 
 Oregon, Governor G. L. Curry, of the latter, at once pro- 
 claimed war, and issued a call for volunteers, without wait- 
 ing for the sanction or assistance of the general Govern- 
 ment. The moment this was done, it was too late to re- 
 tract. It was as if a torch had been applied to a field of 
 dry grass. So simultaneously did the Indians from Puget 
 Sound to the Rocky Mountains, and from the Rocky Moun- 
 tains to the southern boundary of Oregon send forth the 
 war-whoop, that there was much justification for the belief 
 which agitated the people, that a combination among the 
 Indians had been secretly agreed to, and that the whites 
 were all to be exterminated. t 
 
 ''.iiil'!W>'i(*C?**'^'iiK:^¥^'l*-:.'.: 
 
508 
 
 THE INDIAN WAR OF 1855-0. 10 
 
 Volunteer companies were already raised and sent into 
 the Indian country, when Brevet Major G. 0. Haller ar- 
 rived at Vancouver, now a [)art of the United States. He 
 had been as far east as Fort Boise to protect the incoraino- 
 immigration ; and finding on his return that there was an 
 Indian war on hand, proceeded at once to the Yakima 
 country v, ith his small force of one hundred men, only 
 fifty of whom were mounted. Much solicitude was felt 
 for the result of the nrst engagement, every one knowintf 
 that if the Indu.ns were at first successful, the war would 
 be long and bloody. 
 
 Major Haller was defeated wiih considerable loss, and 
 notwithstanding slight reinforcements, from Fort Vancou- 
 ver, only succeeded in getting safely out of the country. 
 Mfijor Haines, the commanding ofPcer at Vancouver, seeing 
 the direction of events, made a requisition upon Governor 
 Curry for -four of his volunteer companies to go into the 
 field. Then followed applications to Major llainf^s for 
 horses and arms lo equip the volunteers ; but the horses 
 at the Fort being unlit for service, and the Major unau- 
 thorized to equip volunteer troops, there resulted only 
 misunderstandings and delays. When General Wool, at 
 the head of the Deparrment in Sail Francisco, was con- 
 sulted, he also was without authority to employ or receive 
 the voluntc s; and when the volunteers, who at length 
 armed and equipped themselves, came to go into the field 
 with the regulars, they couid not agree as to the mode of 
 fighting Indians ; so that with one thing and another, the 
 war became an exciting topic for more reasons tiian be- 
 cause the w^hi'.es were afraid of the Indians. As for Gen- 
 e^al Wool, he was in great disfavor both in Oregon and 
 Washington because he did not believe there ever had 
 existed the necessity for, a war ; and that therefore he 
 bestowed what assistance was at his command very grudg- 
 
«i 
 
 OFFlGEllS OF THE WAR — VOLUNTEEllS, 
 
 509 
 
 iii<vly. General Wool, it was said, was jealous of the vol- 
 unteers ; and the volunteers certainly cared little for the 
 opinion of General Wool. 
 
 However all that may be, Col. Meek gives it as his opin- 
 ion that the okl General was right. " It makes me think," 
 ml he, " of a bear-light 1 once saw in the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, where a huge old grizzly was surrounded by a pack 
 of ten or twelve dogs, all snapping at and worrying him. 
 It made hira powerful mad, and every now and then he 
 woukl make a claw at one of them that silenced him at 
 once. 
 
 The Indian war in Oregon gave practice to a number of 
 officers, since become famous, most prominent among 
 whom, is Sheridan, who served in Oregon as a Tiieutenant. 
 Grant himself, was at one time a Captain on that frontier. 
 Col. Wright, afterwards Gen. Wright, succeeded Major 
 Raines at Vancouver, and conducted the war through its 
 most active period. During a period of three years there 
 were troops constantly occupied in trying to subdue the 
 Indians in one quarter or another. 
 
 As for the volunteers they fared badly. On the first 
 call to arms the people responded liberally. The proposi- 
 tion which the Governor made for their equipment was 
 accepted, and they turned in their property at a certain 
 valuation. When the war was over and the property sold, 
 the men who had turned it in could not purchase it with- 
 ont paying more for it in gold and silver than it was val- 
 ued at when it was placed in the hands of the Quarter- 
 master. It was sold, however, and the money enjoyed by 
 the shrewd political speculators, who thought an Indian 
 war a very good investment. " 
 
 Meek was one of the first to volunteer, and went as a 
 private in Company A. On arriving at the Dalles he was 
 detailed for special service by Col. J. W. Nesmith, and 
 
 l 
 
510 
 
 MAJOR MEEK AS A VOLUNTEER. 
 
 i 
 
 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 ^ i 
 
 ' ' ' t 
 i 
 
 i ■ 
 
 sent out as pilot or messenger, whenever any such duty 
 was required. He tjrs finally placed on Nesmith's staff 
 and given the title of Major. In this capacity, as iu every 
 other, ho was still the same alert and willing individual 
 tiiat we have always seen him, and not a whit less inclined 
 to be merry when an opportunity offered. 
 
 While the army was in the Yakima country, it being an 
 enemy's country, and provisions scarce, the troops some- 
 times were in want of rations. But Meek had not fovi^ot- 
 ten his mountain craft, and always had something to eat, 
 if anybody did. One evening he had killed a fat cow 
 which he had discovered astray, and was proceeding to 
 roast a twenty-pound piece before his camp-fire, when a 
 number of the officers called on him. The sight and sa- 
 vory smell of the beef was very grateful to them. 
 
 "Major Meek," said they in a breath, "we will sup with 
 you to-night." i. 
 
 "I am very sorry, gentlemen, to decline the honor," 
 returned Meek with a repetition of the innocent surprise 
 for which ho had so often been laughed at, "but lam 
 very hungry, and thar is barly enough beef for one 
 man!" 
 
 On hearing this sober assertion, those who had heard 
 the story laughed, but th.o rest looked rather aggrieved. 
 However, the Major continued his cooking, and when the 
 beef was done to a turn, he invited his visitors to the 
 feast, and the evening passed merrily with jests and camp 
 stories. 
 
 After the army went into winter-quarters, Nesmith hav- 
 ing resigned, T. R. Cornelius was elected Colonel. One 
 of his orders prohibited firing in camp, an order which as 
 a good mountaineer the Major should ha\"e remembered. 
 But having been instructed to proceed to Salem without 
 delay, as bearer of dispatches, the Major committed the 
 
"marking time." 
 
 511 
 
 ciTor of firing his gun to see if it was in good condition 
 for a trip through the enemy's country. Shortly after he 
 received a message from his Colonel requesting him to 
 repair to his tent. The Colonel received him politely, and 
 invited him to breakftist with him. The aroma of coffee 
 made this invitation peculiarly acceptable — for luxuries 
 were scarce in camp — and the breakfast proceeded for 
 some time very agreeably. When Meek had breakfasted, 
 Colonel Cornelius took occasion to inquire if the Major 
 kd not heard hia order against, firing in camp. " Yes," 
 said Meek. "Then," said the Colonel, "I shall be 
 obliged to make an example of you." 
 
 While Meek stood aghast at the idea of j /unishment, a 
 guard appeared at the door of the tent, and he heard 
 what his punishment was to be, " Mark time for twenty 
 minutes in the presence of the whole regiment." 
 
 "When the command "forward! was given," says Meek, 
 "you might have seen somebody step off lively, the offi- 
 cer counting it off, 'left, left.* But some of the regiment 
 grumbled more about it than I did. I just got my horse 
 and my dispatches and left for the lower country, and 
 when I returned I asked for my discharge, and got it." 
 
 And here ends the career of our hero as a public man. 
 The history of the young State, of which he is so old a 
 pioneer furnishes ample material for an interesting volume, 
 and will sometime be written by an abler than our sketchy 
 pen. One thing only it occurs to us to state in connec- 
 tion with it, that while Fiany Northern men went, as Gen. 
 Lane did, into the rebellion against the Government, our 
 noliler Virginian was ever sternly loyal. 
 
 The chief excitement of Col. Meek's life at present, is 
 
 in his skirmishes with the Nazerene and other preachers 
 
 in his neighborhood. They seem not to bo able to see 
 
 him treading so gently the downhill of life, when they 
 
 33 
 
 i.'^'. 
 
512 
 
 END OF MEEK S PUBLIC CAREEU. 
 
 #, 
 
 ^ 
 
 M' 
 
 fear he may " go to the pit " prepared for mountain-uien. 
 In this state of mind they preach at him on every possible 
 occasion, whether suitable or not, and usually he takes it 
 f pleasantly enough. But when their attacks become too 
 ■ personal, he does as did the bear to whom he likened Gen, 
 Wool, he "hits one a claw that silences him." 
 
 Being very much annoyed on one occasion, not very 
 long since, by the stupid and vulgar L^peech of a 
 *' preacher " whom he complimented by going to hear, he 
 deliberately marched up to the preacher's desk, took the 
 frightened little orator on his hip, and carried him out of 
 the house, to the mingled horror, amazement, and amuse- 
 ment of the congregation. ."» 
 
 We think that a man who at fifty-eight is able to per- 
 form such a feat, is capable of achieving fresh laurels, and 
 need not retire upon those he has won. 
 
 ... ^ I ■ 
 
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 - ^ ^■-;»^' '.'"I'r^-" (?M^>I f> A t'iij 
 
THE NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILROAD. 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 513 
 
 14 
 
 
 It was no part of the original intention of the author 
 of the foregoing narrative to extend the work beyond 
 the personal adventures of one man, and such portions 
 of collateral, history as were necessary to a perfect under- 
 standing of the times and events spoken of But since 
 the great interest which the public have taken in the 
 opening of the first Pacific Railroad has become apparent, 
 it has been deemed expedient to subjoin some facts con- 
 cerning the Western Division of the Northern Pacific Rail- 
 road, now in contemplation, and to become a reality, 
 probably, within an early day. 
 
 The Northern Pacific Road will have its eastern end 
 somewhere on Lake Superior, and its western terminus at 
 a point on Puget's Sound not yet determined. As that 
 portion of the road lying west of Fort Union, on the 
 Missouri River, traverses much of the country spoken of 
 in the adventures of the fur-traders, as well as all the 
 northern part of what was once the Oregon Territory, 
 whose early history we have already given, it will not be 
 found altogether irrelevant to enter into a brief descrip- 
 tion of the country so soon to be opened to the traveling 
 pubUc. Hitherto we have roamed it in imagination as 
 the fur-traders did, bent only on beaver-cskins and adven- 
 ture. Now we will briefly consider it as a country fit for 
 the permanent settlement of industrious Peoples seeking 
 homes for themselves and the coming generations. 
 
014 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 I ^i 
 
 |.^ i ! 
 
 Western Oregon. — To commence with the oldest set- 
 tled portion of the original Oregon Territory, we will 
 first describe that portion of the present State of Oreo'on 
 technically known as Western Oregon. All that portion 
 of the State of Oregon lying west of the Cascade Moun- 
 tains, is comprised in three principal valleys — the Walla- 
 met,* the Umpqua, and the Rogue Hiver Valleys — and in 
 a narrow strip of country lying along the coast, and sepa- 
 rated from the valleys by the Coast range of mountains. 
 These two ranges of mountains, the Cascades, high and 
 almost inaccessible on the east, and the Coast range, sepa- 
 rating it from the sea on the west, make of Western Ore 
 gon a country with a very peculiar geography. With 
 the Columbia River for a northern boundary, and with 
 three transverse ranges of mountains to the south, sepa- 
 rating the several valleys, the situation of Western Oregon 
 is isolated and unique. 
 
 . The Wallamet River takes its rise in the Cascade Moun- 
 tains, flowing westwardly for some distance, when it takes 
 a course almost directly north, and falls into the Columbia 
 in about latitude 45° 30', and longitude 45° 40'. The 
 whole length of this river is probably not over one hun- 
 dred and seventy-five miles ; and the extent of its valley 
 proper is in the neighborhood of one hundred and twenty- 
 five miles in length, by from sixty to eighty in breadth. 
 Numerous tributaries flow into the Wallamet from either 
 side, making the country both fertile and agreeable. 
 
 The Wallamet Valley is mostly open prairie land, ready 
 for the plowshare. At the northern end of it, however, 
 and within a few miles of the Columbia, there are dense 
 forests of fir, pine, yew, and cedar, on all the high and 
 dry lands, while the bottom-lands along the streams are 
 
 * Incorrectly spelled on the maps, Willamette. 
 
THE WALLAMET VALLEY. 
 
 515 
 
 covered with a fine growth of oak, ash, maple, cotton- 
 wood, alder, and willow. But as we travel southward 
 from the Columbia, the timber along the Wallamet be- 
 comes less dense, until finally we come to the beautiful 
 open prairies, only half hidden from view by a thin fringe 
 of low trees, and picturesquely dotted here and there by 
 (Troves of oak and fir intermingled. i 
 
 The Prairies of Western Oregon do not resemble the 
 immense flat plains of Illinois ; but are rather gently un- 
 dulating, and bear a strong likeness to the " oak open- 
 ings" of Michigan and Wisconsin. Instead of being con- 
 tinuous levels, they are divided by low ranges of hills, 
 covered with oak timber, low and spreading, and draped, 
 like the trees of the Sacramento Valley, with a long 
 hanging gray moss, that floats lightly on the summer 
 wind, as if celebrating the delightful mildness and beauty 
 of the scene. 
 
 The Wallamet, although navigable for one hundred and 
 thirty miles from its mouth, is, like all the rivers west of 
 the Rocky Mountains, troubled with rapids, and narrowed 
 in some places to little more than the width of the passing 
 steamer. In the latter part of summer, steamers cannot : 
 ascend it beyond Salem, the capital of the State. Of its ; 
 ten principal tributaries, most of them are navigable for • 
 considerable distances, and all of them furnish abundant 
 water-power. .,,,^., ., ^.,. ,-,.,.., ..^^ — ^„.. 
 
 The Falls of the Wallamet^ about twenty-five miles ; 
 from its junction with the Columbia, furnish the greatest 
 water-power in the State, as also some fine scenery. 
 Above the falls, the water spreads out into a wide, deep ? 
 basin, and runs slowly and smoothly until within a half- '^ 
 mile of the falls, when its width diminishes, its velocity 
 increases, and in its haste it turns back upon itself, form- 
 ing dangerous eddies, until at length, forced forward, it ^ 
 
 '\ '• 
 
 li^i UM 
 
516 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. '- fn.fO JIHT 
 
 
 ! i 
 
 makes the plunge of more than twenty feet, into a boilhiff 
 whirlpo )1 below, and breaks into foam along a ledge of 
 volcanic rock stretching from shore to shore. The spray 
 dashed up by the descent of the water, forms a beautiful 
 rainbow, besides being a means of cooling the hot air of 
 the summer noon at Oregon City, which is situated along 
 the rocky bluffs at this point of the river, a/j ^'^RHWffe 
 
 The navigation of the river thus interrupted, formerly 
 necessitated a portage of a couple of miles at Oregon 
 City ; but recently the People's Transportation Company 
 have erected a strong basin on the east side of the river, 
 which permits their boats to come so close together that 
 the passengers and freight have only to pass through the 
 Company's warehouse to be transferred. 
 
 The amount of agricultural land in the Wallamet Val- 
 ley is estimated at about three million acres. This esti- 
 mate leaves out large bodies of land in the foot-hills of 
 the mountains, on either side, more suitable for grazing 
 than for farming purposes. - ■ •• - • 
 
 T/ie Soil of the Wallamet Valley is of excellent quality. 
 Upon the prairies it consists of gray, calcareous, sandy 
 loam, especially adapted to the cultivation of cereals, par- 
 ticularly of wheat, barley, and oats. It is exceedingly 
 mellow and easily worked, and is not affected by drouth. 
 Along the banks of the river, and the streams tributary 
 to it, the soil consists of various decomposed earths, sand, 
 and vegetable matter, deposited there in seasons of freshet, 
 and is of the most fertile description. The soil of the 
 foot-hills is a dark clay loam, mixed with vegetable mold 
 in the small intervening valleys. Excellent grasses are 
 produced, though this kind of soil suffers more from 
 drouth than that of the prairies. 
 
 . The CJi mate of the Wallamet Fa??e?/ is mild and agreeable. 
 The seasons are two, — the wet and the dry. The rainy 
 
THE CLIMATE OF THE WALLAMET VALLEY. 
 
 517 
 
 jionson nsually commences in November, although fre- 
 quently it holds off, except a few light showers, until De- 
 conil^er. The rains continue pretty constantly until about 
 tlie last of January, when there is a clearing up of three 
 or four weeks. This interval is the real winter season, 
 and is sometimes cold, with frozen ground, or snow, though 
 frciierally the Oregon winters are not characterised either 
 by cold or snow to any great amount. After this "clear 
 spell " comes a second season of rains which may clear up 
 by the first of March, or not until April. It is not an un- 
 usual thing for gardening to be commenced in February ; 
 but the result of this early gardening is not always sure. 
 
 WheK the rains of winter have passed, there are occa- 
 sional showers until the first of July, after which there is 
 a dry period of four months. This dry season instead of 
 being oppressive, as would be the case in the Atlantic 
 States, is most delightful. Sufficient moisture is borne in 
 from the sea, over the tops of the Coast range to make the 
 air of a fine coolness and freshness, and not enough to 
 make it humid. Thus there is a fine, dry, cool air, with a 
 moderate temperature, and a dry warm earth, which makesi 
 an Oregon summer the most charming season to be expe- 
 rienced in any part of the world. The nights are always 
 cool enough to make a blanket necessary. The mornings 
 bright and not too hot — the heated term during dog-days 
 only extending over the hours from 12 M. to 4 P. M. 
 
 That a climate such as this must be healthful is undeni- 
 able. During the falling of the rains there is little or no 
 sickness. Just after the rain ceases falling, and before the 
 earth becomes dry, the rapid evaporation causes colds and 
 coughs to the careless or the inexperienced. Through the 
 dry season there is little sickness except in certain locali- 
 ties where, as in all new countries, malaria is formed by 
 the exposure to the sun of new or submerged soila..;i^ . -r 
 
 
 '.if! 
 
518 
 
 WESTERN OIIEOON. 
 
 One of the faults, so to spoak, of Western Oregon is 
 its .nildness of climate. The agricultural population are 
 prone to be negligent in providing for that irregular, and 
 uncertainly certain occasional visitation, a " hard winter." 
 Therefore the stock-raiser who has his several hundred 
 head of cattle and horses ranging his one or two thousand 
 acres of uplands, and who, trusting in Providence, makes 
 no sufficient provision for a month or six weeks of feed- 
 ing, is liable once in five to eight years, to lose nearly all 
 of his stock, ^id this same stock-raiser have to get his 
 cattle through seven months of winter as many eastern 
 farmers do, he might come at last to be willing to provide 
 for the possible six weeks. Cattle in Oregon generally 
 look poor in the spring, because the farmers allow them 
 to shift for themselves all through the rainy season, which 
 they should not do. For this reason. Western Oregon, al- 
 though naturally the best of dairy countries, furnishes Ht- 
 tie butter and cheese, and that often of a poor quality. 
 An influx of Central New York dairymen would greatly 
 benefit the state, and develop one of its surest means of 
 wealth. 
 
 The Productions of the Wallamet Valley are wheat, oats, 
 barley, rye, wool, and fruits. All of the grains grow 
 abundantly, and are of unusual excellence. The same is 
 true of such fruits as apples, pears, plums, cherries, cur- 
 rants, gooseberries, strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, 
 etc. In fact all fruits do well in Western Oregon, except 
 grapes, peaches, apricots, nectarines, and that class of 
 fruits which love a dry and hot climate. Grapes and 
 peaches can be raised with sufficient care, but are not a 
 natural crop like the first mentioned fruits. Corn is not 
 raised as a crop, on account of the cool nights, which are 
 not favorable to its ripening. .--ir:- ; j, < 'i^hiR 
 
 Tlie Umpqua Valley is that portion of Western Oregon 
 
TUE COAST COUNTRY, 
 
 519 
 
 next south of the WalLamct Valley, being divided from it 
 by a range of mountains bearing tl»o Indian name of Cala- 
 pooya. It is a region not so well fitted for grain-raising 
 as the Wallamet valley, but is perhaps superior as a fruit- 
 growing and wool-raising section. The valley is watered 
 hy tlie Umpqua River, and is broken up into numerous 
 hills and valleys, in the most picturesque manner. It is 
 one of the most beautiful portions of the Pacific Coast, 
 being rolling, well, without being densely wooded, and 
 having a very agreeable climate, with rather less rain than 
 falls in the lower altitude of the Wallamet. 
 
 The Rogue River Valley is another division of Western 
 Oregon, divided from the Umpqua vfHey by a range of 
 mountains bearing the name of Umpqua, It resembles 
 the country just described in general, but has a climate 
 which is a happy mixture of Californian dryness aud Oro- 
 gonian moisture. It is not considered a grain-growing coun- 
 try to any great extent ; not from any inadaptability of 
 the soil, but because it is a very superior grazing and fruit- 
 jrrowing country, and has also a considerable mining noto- 
 riety. It is separated from northern California by the 
 Liskiyou range of mountains, and watered by the Rogue 
 River and its northern tributaries. fr^.^j; 
 
 The Coast Country consists of a strip of land from five 
 to twelve miles wide, lying between the westernmost range 
 of mountains in Oregon, and the sea. It contains several 
 counties, whose chief agricultural merits consist in the ex- 
 cellence of their grasses and vegetables. Fruit too, grows 
 very well in the Coast counties. Hops and honey, as well 
 as butter, are among their chief farming products. But 
 the greatest wealth of the Coas't counties is probably to be 
 derived from the heavy forests of timber which cover the 
 mountain sides ; and from the mines of coal and copper 
 which underlie them. - .^i^o^.w*' 
 
520 
 
 WK9TKUN OREGON. 
 
 ! i 
 
 A number of points have already become quite famous 
 for business alon<^ tlio coast; Coose Bay for its coal ami 
 lumber; Tilamook for its oysters; and Yaquina for its 
 good harborage, and easy access through a fine niitural 
 pass to the heart of the Wallamet valley. The port of 
 Umpqua once promised to become a point of some import- 
 ance, but latterly has fallen into neglect from the difficulty 
 of communicating thence with the interior. 
 
 The climate of the Coast counties is cooler and more 
 moist than that of the valleys to the eastward, on account 
 of their contiguity to the sea. Their soil is deep, black, 
 and rich, supporting an immense growth of shrubbery, 
 and ferns from ten to fourteen feet in height. The prai- 
 rie spots are covered with grass, and so are the hill-sides 
 wherever the timber is not too dense. Though the mean 
 temperature of the Coast counties is lower than that of the 
 interior, it is also more even ; and the sea-fogs in summer 
 as well as the rains in winter serve to keep the natural 
 grasses in excellent condition. In short every circum- 
 stance seems to point to the Coast counties of Oregon as 
 the great dairy region of the Pacific Coast, as the valleys 
 of the interior are the granaries, and the hill-sides the 
 sheep-pastures. 
 
 Good feed the year round, grain enough for the wants 
 of the farmer, plenty of cold mountain water, abundance 
 of timber, plenty of game and fish, are all inducements to 
 the settler who wishes to make himself a permanent home 
 on the Pacific Slope. These, added to the wealth yet to 
 be developed in mines and lumber at every opening where 
 a vessel of a hundred tons can enter, make the future of 
 these now almost vacant Coast counties look inviting. 
 
 Mesiime of the Soil^ Climate and Resources of Western, 
 Oregon. — From the foregoing general description of West- 
 ern Oregon it will be seen that the country lying between 
 
SOIL, CLIMATK, KESOUli' KS, 
 
 521 
 
 the Cusoado Mountains and the Coast range, consists of 
 one viilley containing about as much agricultural land of 
 the best quality as would make a State of the size of Con- 
 necticut, and two other smaller valhjys, with a less ])ropor- 
 tioii of farming land, and a greater proportion of hill and 
 pasture lands. Also that between the Coast range and 
 the ocean is a strip of country wide enough for a tier of 
 counties, peculiarly adapted to grazing purposes, yet not 
 without considerable arable land. 
 
 No one can survey the Wallamet Valley without being 
 struck with its beauty and its fertility, and many are found 
 who pronounce it the most beautiful spot in America. Its 
 beauty consists in the agreeable intermixture of level or 
 rolling prairies, with ranges of low hills, dotted with oak 
 timber, in the multitude of its winding rivers, along which 
 grow a skirting of graceful trees, and in the grandeur of 
 the mountains which guard it alike from the heat of the 
 eastern deserts, and the cold of ihe northern ocean. Its 
 fertility is evident from the mighty forests which mantle 
 the hills in everlasting green, and from the grassy plains 
 which year after year clothe the valley with renewed ver- 
 dure, as well as from the golden harvest fields which man 
 has interspersed among the universal green. ^ >•* - 
 
 The question which first suggests itself is concerning 
 the durability of the soil which produces so well in a wild 
 state. A sketch of the history of agriculture in Oregon 
 will serve to point to an answer. 
 
 Many portions of Oregon have been cultivated for a 
 period of twenty-five years without any of those aids to 
 the soil, or that care in preparation and cultivation which 
 is thought necessary to keep up the quality of soils in 
 other farming States. This thriftless mode of farming was 
 the result, partly of an absence of laborers and good 
 farming utensils, for the first fifteen years of the occupa- 
 
522 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 V i ■ 
 
 IE I 
 
 ^ 
 
 tion of Oregon by a farming community. From tlie neces- 
 sity of [)()or farming grew the habit. It was found that the 
 earth would continue to produce when only half-cultivtitou 
 hence ff.rmers grew indolent from too great security. The 
 great regularity of the seasons too, by which the maturing 
 of crops became a certainty, contributed to this general 
 indiilerence, for it is an established fact that in order to 
 work well, men must be in some sort compelled to work. 
 
 Another reason why farmers have not put themselves 
 upon their mettle in a generous emulation, was, that for 
 many years farm products were worth little or nothing for 
 want of a market. All these reasons conspired to confirm 
 a habit of indifi'erent cultivation, which accident and the 
 condition of the country first forced upon theui. Yet 
 these same lands do not appear to have suffered very ma- 
 terially from this long course of impoverishment. <- ??^« ; 
 
 Yet another cause of poor farming has been in the fact 
 of so large bodies of land having been held as sing!" farms. 
 It is impossible, of course, for one family to ciUtivate a 
 mile square of land. Hence a little grain was scratched 
 in on one portion of the claim, and a little more on another, 
 and all so scattered, and carelessly done that no first-^ate 
 crops could possibly be obtained. 
 
 The soil of the prairies is of a dark gray color, is mel- 
 low, and not affected by drouth. It is especially adapted 
 to cereals, and grows vegetables and fruits well, but not 
 so well as the more alluvial soil formed im.mediately along 
 the banks of the rivers and streams. It is found, too, that 
 ihuv portion of the prairie which grows ferns, and the land 
 which skirts the oak groves, or has been clear': i of tim- 
 ber, is more favorable to fruit-grf)wing than the more 
 compact soil of the prairie. The timbered lands every 
 where are productive, excepting occasional clay ridge? 
 where pines are found. The prairies still furnish grass in 
 
SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES. 
 
 523 
 
 ay color, Is mel- 
 
 abuiuliinco for hay, but not of such quality nor in such 
 (jiian.tity as the swampti, swales, and beaver-dams near the 
 rivers and in the L.eavy timber when drained and cleared. 
 
 Of tlic several varieties of soil in Western Ore^^on, 
 there are none that are not sufficiently productive to in- 
 vite labor with a promise of reward. The whole face of 
 the country is productive, and wherever the hillsides are 
 not too steep to pitch a tent, those things needed by man 
 may be made to grow abundantly. 
 
 Climate, however, and the shape of the country govern 
 men in their selection of occupations. The grain-farmer 
 v.ill keep to the valleys; the fruitgrower will occupy the 
 gentle slopes of the lowest hills ; the stock-raiser will set- 
 tle among the foot-hills, and take his sheep to the moun- 
 tains; while the dairy-man will seek those spots where 
 grass is good for the longest period of time, and where 
 the temperature favors the making of good, solid and 
 sweet butter and cheese. 
 
 The nights in Western Oregon are always cooj, and sleep 
 becomes a regular refreshment. It is owing to the low 
 temperature of the nights that corn and some varieties of 
 fruit have commonly failed. However the proper cultiva- 
 tion will yet produce those things in a sufficient abundance. 
 Good corn has Ijeen raised in Western Oregon, and peaches 
 of splendid size and flavor occasionally find their way to 
 market. Apples, cherries, and plums of unequalled size 
 and excellence grow m astonishing profusion. 
 
 The winters of Western Oregon, though I'ainy, ara gen- 
 erally mild. The principal hardship of the rainy season 
 consists in simply enduring the monotony of the dull sky 
 and constant rain. It is, however, a favorable climate for 
 the farmer, since he is not forced to work hard all the 
 summer to raise what his stock will need to eat through 
 
524 
 
 WESTKIIN OREGON. 
 
 the winter. A fortnight's feed usually suffices for the 
 wintering of cattle. 
 
 The following tables show the comparative mean tem- 
 peratures of three points in Oregon, with four in other 
 States : also the number of rainy days in Oregon and Illi- 
 nois, respectively : 
 
 .-M- 
 
 Table I. — Showing Comparative Mean Temperatures. 
 
 ^'('\t>rj 
 
 Time. 
 
 a 
 ?c 
 
 O 
 1 
 
 < 
 
 
 d 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 in 
 
 1 
 
 'o 
 
 .s 
 i 
 
 CO 
 
 S 
 
 bc 
 
 3 
 
 d 
 
 S 
 1 
 
 '3 
 
 rt 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 as 
 
 < 
 
 3 
 
 .5 
 
 3 
 
 Years of Observation .... 
 
 n 
 
 H 
 
 3i 
 
 11? 
 
 2 
 
 42.33 
 69.95 
 42.60 
 13.06 
 41.97 
 
 51 
 
 24 
 
 47.G1 
 70.17 
 50.01 
 25.83 
 48.41 
 
 47.36 
 71.42 
 50.34 
 
 25.88 
 48.75 
 
 Spring Temperature 
 
 Summer " 
 
 Autumn " 
 
 Winter « 
 
 Whole Time " 
 
 51.16 
 61.36 
 53.55 
 42.43 
 52.13 
 
 52.19 
 67.18 
 53.41 
 39.27 
 53.00 
 
 53.00 
 70.36 
 52.21 
 35.59 
 52.79 
 
 51.34 
 72.51 
 53.38 
 29.80 
 51.76 
 
 59.97 
 71.08 
 64.36 
 52.29 
 61.93 
 
 The only point in Eastern Oregon, whose temperature 
 is exhibited in this table, is Dalles, which, situated as it 
 is, immediately at the base of the Cascade Mountains, 
 does not fairly represent the temperature of the extensive 
 valleys farther east, which constitute the agricultural re 
 gion of that country. The summer, in most of those val- 
 leys, as well as on the table-lands, is much warmor than at 
 the Dalles. The winter temperature, it will be oWrved, 
 is much higher than that of other States in the ^me lati 
 tude, while that of the spring is nearly tk« 8»Me, and the 
 summer not quite so high. 
 
 Jir 
 
 
ilm 
 
 SOIL, CLIilATE, KESOURCES. 
 
 525 
 
 ' suffices for tlie 
 
 irative mean tern- 
 ith four in other 
 L Oregon and lUi- 
 
 mperatures. 
 
 V. ~tS„^..,, 
 
 '••^iiaV' 
 
 c 
 
 i 
 
 o 
 
 CJ 
 N 
 
 o 
 to 
 
 o 
 
 5 
 
 a 
 
 >^ 
 
 c 
 
 c« 
 
 < 
 
 24 
 
 47.61 
 70.17 
 50.01 
 25.83 
 48.41 
 
 C4 
 
 A 
 
 sT 
 s 
 g* 
 
 3 
 
 ft 
 
 31 
 
 47,36 
 71.42 
 50.34 
 25.88 
 48.75 
 
 2 
 
 5^ 
 
 12.33 
 39.95 
 12.60 
 .3.06 
 .1.97 
 
 59.97 
 71.08 
 64.36 
 52.29 
 61.93 
 
 lose temperature 
 h, situated as it 
 cade Mountains, 
 of the extensive 
 agricultural re 
 LOst of those val- 
 1 warnior !han at 
 rill be oK'«erved, 
 in the ^aiiie lati 
 u^ same, aiid the 
 
 T.iUi.E U.—Shomng the Number of Rainy Days during the Winter, at Astoria^ 
 Oregon, Wallamel Valley, Oregon, and Peoria, Illinois, respectively. 
 
 Month. 
 
 XdVlilllxT. . . 
 
 IVccinln'r. . . 
 , JaiiMiiry .... 
 ; February . . . 
 
 Total 
 
 Astoria, Oregon. 
 
 Wiillamot 
 Vallfty, 0. 
 
 Pooria, 111. 
 
 1857-8 
 
 1858-9 
 
 1859-60 
 
 1856-7 
 
 1856-7 
 
 1857-8 
 
 21 
 
 16 
 
 19 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 16 
 
 25 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 20 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 72 
 
 69 
 
 70 
 
 43 
 
 83 
 
 37 
 
 This table includes all rainy days, without reference to 
 wliether it rained all day, or only a part. It also includes 
 snowy days, very few of which are seen in Oregon, in an 
 ordinary winter. 
 
 The climate of Oregon has proven to be a healthful one 
 (luring a thirty years' residence of some of the earliest 
 missionaries and settlers, no far as natural causes are con- 
 cerned, there appears to be none for the promotion of 
 disease, if we except the tendency to pulmonary and rheu- 
 matic diseases for which both California and Oregon are 
 fiuned, and which no doubt is to be credited to the cold 
 winds from the ocean. These winds in themselves are a 
 smitary provision of nature, and servo to give the Pacific 
 coast a climate generally free from jaiiasmatic and pestilen- 
 tial diseases ; but it is necessary for sensitive constitutions 
 to guard against the rapid change of temperature which 
 they effect when they come .^weeping in from the sea. 
 sudtlonly displacing the warm air of the valleys. With 
 proper cai\\ and attention to the most manifest laws of 
 herlth, the physical man has a. better opportunity for rnag- 
 niticont development, on the Pacific coaHt, than in any 
 other part of the Auior'^an continent. 
 While the winters of Western Oregon are dull awl di^ 
 
 
 
 F»g. ,i>X.F.tM.1. 
 
 ii4J^ 
 
52(j 
 
 WE8TEUN OREGON. 
 
 agreeable, the summers are proportionately deliohtful 
 The general temperature of the days is mild and a<Teea- 
 ble, the air bright and clear, warmer in the afternoons 
 than in the mornings, invariably ; yet falling again to aa 
 invigorating coolness in the evening. Sultriness is almost 
 never experienced in this part of Oregon. The greatest 
 heat of summer has not that enervating eifect which tlie 
 summer-heats have in the Atlantic States. It is frequently 
 remarked by the farmers here that their cattle can endure 
 to work right on under the hottest sun of summer with- 
 out showing signs of exhaustion, as they would have done 
 in those States from which they were brought. 
 
 From the peculiarities of the soil, seasons, and chmate 
 of Western Oregon, it becomes necessary for the farmer 
 to practice modes of culture especially adapted to it, and 
 to conform to other seed-time than that he may have been 
 accustomed to in other States. Much can undoubtedly 
 be learned from old Oregon farmers ; but a careful obser- 
 vation from year to year, with a little judicious experi- 
 ment, will, we hope, develop among the newer settlers 
 a better manner of farming than that formerly practiced 
 in Oregon, when one year's cultivation was made to an- 
 swer for three years' crops— the two latter of which were 
 of course self-sown. 
 
 While the yield of wheat is perhaps no greater than 
 that of the Genesee valley, or the rich prairies of Indiana 
 or son th western Michigan, the crop is far more sure, from 
 the absence of insects, rust, winter-killing, etc. Perhaps 
 not more than twice since the .'ettlement of the Wallamet 
 Valley has the wheat crop been injured by rain in harvest 
 time. As a general thing the straw is short and stout, and 
 ^ the grain is never laid down by summer tempests of wind 
 and rain. 
 
 Peas sown broadcast, with or without oats, bring a pro- 
 
 \\ 
 
SOIL, CLIMATE, RESOURCES. 
 
 527 
 
 )iiatoly delightful. 
 s mild and agreea- 
 in the afternoons 
 idling again to an 
 Sultriness is almost 
 :on. The greatest 
 g effect which the 
 3. It is frequently 
 ' cattle can endure 
 a of summer with- 
 ' would have done 
 rought. ,,v 
 
 ;asons, and chmate 
 ary for the farmer 
 adapted to it, and 
 he may have been 
 can undoubtedly 
 lUt a careful obser- 
 ! judicious experi- 
 ho newer settlers 
 foi'merly practiced 
 was made to an- 
 -er of which were 
 
 s no greater than 
 jrairies of Indiana 
 vr more sure, from 
 ng, etc. Perhaps 
 t of the Wallamet 
 by rain in harvest 
 ort and stout, and 
 tempests of wind 
 
 oats, bring a pro* 
 
 iuct about equal to wheat; and are the best crop for fat- 
 ■iiiiu'- hogs, requiring little labor, and producing a fine 
 ;;ialitv of pork by turning the hogs into the field in the 
 fall and letting t^em fatten there. Bacon brings a high 
 price in the mines, and is one of the most valuable posses- 
 sions of the farmer. The rapid increase of sheep in Oro- 
 ijon gives the sheep-raiser a large surplus every year 
 above what he can afford to keep for their wool, and of 
 this surplus quite a number every year may be sold for 
 mutton at homo, or driven to the mines, where they com- 
 mand a good price. 
 
 The whole country west of the Rocky Mountains is fa- 
 vorably adapted to fruit-growing, and no portion of it 
 more so than Western Oregon. Trees of three years' 
 ffrowth bend to the earth under their burdens of fruit. 
 Before the tree matures its strength it bears at a rate so 
 irondeiiul that without artificial support the branches split 
 away from the main tree. Apple trees less than two 
 inches in diameter, with branches no mor# than three- 
 quarters of an inch in thickness are so crowded with ap- 
 ples as to leave very little of the stock visible. We have 
 counted forty large apples on a limb of the thickness 
 mentioned above, and no more than four feet and a half 
 long, — a mere rod. Plum and pear trees bear in the san o 
 manner. Cherries are equally prolific, but peaches sel- 
 dom crowd the tree in Western Oregon, though they do 
 in Eastern Oregon. Probably the best treatment to give 
 young fruit trees in Oregon would be to pull off the great- 
 er portion of the fruit for the first year or two in order 
 that the trees might mature their strength. No doubt it 
 Aould also add to the flavor of the fruit, though that 
 seems to be always excellent. 
 
 " Wildljorries are very abundnnt. Home of whkV arc jioruliarly delirious. 
 Thf benies ure straw 1»«»tIoi», dewbenies, whortl«.>WiTit;s. s»lliilb(;rries, black aud 
 
 84 
 
528 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 yellow raspberries, gf)osebemos, juneberries, and (-ranberries. The cranborrii . 
 are good, but found in abundance only in tbc vicinity of the ocean ; the junc sal- 
 mon, and <roosel)erries are nut particularly desirable; the dew, sallal, andras'- 
 berries iu'iMtliolce, and (jiiite abundant ; and the .straw and whortleberries an 
 fc>i'-iiii'ly abinidant and delicious, llui prairies may be truly said to be liter 
 ally red with strawberries, and the timbered openiii;j;.s blue with whortlebcrric, 
 in their season. The seasv>n of ripe strawberries is from three to six wwiis, 
 and that of whortleberries from six to ten weeks. The whortleberry bush, 
 except in the mountains, like the Umpqua plnm shrub, is borne prostrate nm 
 tyie earth's grassy covering, from the weight of its delicious fruit. The wild 
 strawberry of Oregon is larger and better than any we have ever scon, except 
 the largest of the large garden cultivated Ei glisli strawberry. The whortle- 
 berry has more acidity than tliose of unshaded growth, growing east of tk' 
 mountains. Eiiglish gooseberries and currants are cultivated here with suc- 
 cess." 
 
 The native grasses of Western Oregon are blue-grass, 
 and red and white clover. The grass formerly grew verv 
 tall on the prairies but has been so much eaten off and 
 tramT)led out by numerous herds of cattle, that it is now 
 mucii shorter. When sown in favorable situations, timo 
 thy will grow to a height of between five and six feet. 
 
 The timbbr of Western Oregon consists of pine, fir, 
 cedar, oak, spruce, hemlock, cotton -wood, cherry, and 
 maplo. Probnbly there is no country in the world where 
 timber grows so strikingly straight and beautiful, and to 
 such gigantic altitude and dimensions as in Oregon. Two 
 hundred feet is but a moderate height for the growth of 
 firs, cedars, and spruce, and they frequently attain a much 
 greater altitude. We have seen elder growing in Oregon 
 three feet in circumference, and hazel thirty inches in rir- 
 cumference, and of the height of forty feet. Black alder 
 and a species of laurel grow to what would be termed, in 
 most countries, large trees — ^logs of alder have been ob 
 tained thirty-two inches in diameter, and of the laurel 
 four feet in diameter. In Western Oregon groves of tiro 
 ber are found skirting and separating prairies ; but the 
 immense timber districts are mainly <;onfined to the neigli- 
 
BOIL, CLIMATK, RESOURCES. 
 
 529 
 
 borhood of the coast of the Pacific, to tlie Coast, Cascade 
 ■M'\ iihie ranges of mountains, and the immediate vicinity 
 of the rivers. 
 
 The lir is seen almost solely on the western slope of the 
 Cascade Mountains, along the Columbia River from where 
 it breaks through that range until it passes through the 
 coast range, on the eastern slope of the Coast Mountains, 
 and along the rivers and upon the mountains almost any 
 where between the summits of these two principal ranges. 
 It is evci'y where slightly mixed with spruce, hemlock, 
 cedar, and yew. The pine is generally found in ridges or 
 patches by itself, except on the west side of the Coast 
 liuige where it grows with hemlock, spruce, and cedar. 
 WiHow grows along all the ^tr^ams, and acquires consid- 
 erable size. Ash, oak, maple, cotton-wood, and alder also 
 grow wherever the ground is low and moist. 
 
 The shrubbery of Oregon is very beautiful and in great 
 variety. There are several varieties of alder, bearing, 
 sever , light purple, scarlet and orange colored berries. 
 The d cherry is a light and graceful tree, having a 
 small, clear scarlet fruit, that is very beautiful, and ex- 
 ceedingly bitter. The tree-whortleberry has a very dimin- 
 utive leaf, almost round, and a small crimson berry tasting 
 much like a barberry. There are two smaller whortle- 
 berry shrubs corresponding to those of the Atlantic States, 
 called swamp and mountain whortleberries. There are 
 several varieties of wild cun^ants, one of which is useless 
 as a ruit, but is most beautiful as a flowering shrub. 
 White spirea, and golden honeysuckle thrust their white 
 or golden blossoms through every thicket, and with the 
 white svrinofa and wild rose, festoon the rivrr banks and 
 hill sides until they seem one bed of bloom. The hand- 
 some shrubbery, and the abundant wild flowers of Oregon, 
 atone greatly for the want of greater variety in the forest 
 
 I .' 
 
530 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 tints ; and the case with wlich flowers may be cultivated 
 for the adornment of homes is one of the greatest recom- 
 mendations of tlie climate. Nature has been lavish, thoufrh 
 man may be indiiferent. If ever a wilderness might be 
 made to blossom as the rose, that wilderness is Oregon. 
 Few of the old settlers of Oregon have cared, however 
 to take advantage of the facilities allbrded them for beau- 
 tifying their homesteads, and it is more common to find a 
 house without garden or shrubbery than with either; a 
 peculiarity as strange as it is inexcusable. 
 
 Though Western Oregon is especially adapted to agri- 
 cultural and pastoral pursuits, the present indications of 
 mineral wealth make it almost certain that the miner's 
 pick, as well as the farmer's plow, must furrow the face of 
 mother Earth, west of the Cascade Mountains. This dis- 
 covery was not sought after by the people of Oregon, who 
 were firmly fixed in their belief that it was as an agricul- 
 tural and manufacturing State that they were to achieve 
 their highest destiny. But when gold and silver, iron, 
 coal, and copper, are knocking for admittance as State re- 
 sources, they cannot and will not be denied. They will 
 be accepted as aids to manufactures and commerce ; and 
 will be taken in connection with forests of splendid tim- 
 ber and ri-- ers of unfailing water-power, as the means by 
 which Oregon is to acquire her future status as one of the 
 most importan States of the T'^nion. 
 
 Since the re )eated tests by which the Santiam gold- 
 bearing quartz has been found to yield $160 to the ton, 
 other discoveries have been made, and will continue to be 
 inade in the Cascade Moinitains. Already the mining 
 town of Quartzville has started up in the Santiam district, 
 and another town called Copperopolis, about ten miles to 
 the southeast has sprung into existence near the copper 
 mines. Discoveries of gold have recently been made in 
 
SOIL, CLIMATK, UEHOUIU'ES. 
 
 681 
 
 riackamas County; but as no actual test has yot ])oon 
 iiiiuU' of the (quality of the ores, we cannot speak of their 
 value. 
 
 It is sufficioTit to say that enough is known of the min- 
 eral resources of Western Oregon to warrant the invest- 
 ment of large amounts of capital ; and that discoveries 
 luivc only just begun to be nuide. 
 
 As to the price of farming lands in the Wallamct valley, 
 thoy vary from three to fifteen dollars, including improve- 
 ments. Many excellent forms nuiy be had at from throe 
 tu five dollans per acre ; the owners selling out in order 
 •to remove with their children into towns, where they can 
 bo educated. These lands in a few years will be worth 
 fifty dollars per acie, and we trust it will not be long be- 
 fore the population will be sufficiently dense to insure 
 "•ood schools throughout the State. The Oregon Central 
 Railroad, now in course of construction, will do much to 
 bring out the resources of the interior, and the time is not 
 (li!-taut when lands in Western Oregon will bring a high 
 price. ■ ■ ■ > 
 
 Sheep-rmsing and Manufacture of Vvoolen Goods. Wm. 
 Lair Hill, in his prize essay, read before the Oregon State 
 Fair, for 18G2, says:— ). , .... 
 
 " if Orcnfon has a specialty, it is her pre-eminence as a wool-growing coun- 
 try. Until recently, very little attention lias been paid to the matter of sheep- 
 raii-ing; but it has now become one of the staple interests of the State. Sheep 
 tlirivc better here than in .'(ny other State. Disease .amongst them is e.xceed- 
 inifly rare. They increase here faster than in the east, and the wool is of ex- 
 cellent quality." 
 
 bi a similar essay, read before the Oregon State Fair 
 for 1863, by John Minto, Esq., the following passages oc- 
 cur: — 
 
 " For tlic health of sheep, dry upland pasture is necessary. Taking the whole 
 of Oregon into view, nine-tenths of the State may he pronounced of that char- 
 
 
5.r2 
 
 WESTERN OUE(iON. 
 
 act('r. lM)r tim I'ucilinj; of slu-cj) tor wool-riiif^in^ purposes, short sweet mssei 
 iitid open \v(K)(lliin(l piisturi's an' (li-t'iiicil brst ; and tiill ihrei'-tinirths of tbt siir- 
 ikWM uf tliu State is cutu|M)rtL>d uf liilU uiid plains yi(;ldin}r HU(;h grasses; ami a 
 larf^t- portion of it is open wuoilland. For tin- f^rowlli of a loni^, even, stmn" 
 and lic.xililc staplf of wool, a mild, v.wu cliniati- (with proper tet'diri") is con- 
 sidered best, and that Orejjon possesses in a rt'niarkable dej^rec. In fact, the 
 t;lini!ile and natural "grasses of Orej^on seem to lie a natin'al combination of the 
 pceuliarities of Kngland and Spain, in tliost; partieulars, espoeially tiie t'liniate 
 
 " Over twenty years a)j;o, Mr. I'eale, a naturalist who af('oni])anied Commodore 
 Wilkes' expedition to this coast j^ave it as his ojjiniou tliat ' the country would 
 become I'amcjus for its jn-oductioa of fine wool,' for the reason that ' the evi-niic^ 
 of the clinuile enables tho fur-bearing animals ti)und lierc to carry their fine 
 cov(!rin<; during the summer months, whereas under greater variations between 
 the seasons, the same animals usually shed their furs, or they become mixed 
 with luiir during sinunier ;' and lijr the further reason that the ' physical geoOTa- 
 phy and natural grasses of the country make it a natural sheep pasture,' W 
 
 " Experience goes far to show Mr, Teale's opinion correct. In a conversa- 
 tion between the writer and Mr. Henry I'erkins, Chief Wool Stapler in the 
 woolen factory at Salem, (a gentleman who lias liad a large and varied experi- 
 ence in assorting wool,) the latter said that he had never handled the v^ool from 
 any country, which as a whole, was equal to tliat of Oregon as a combing wool; 
 and that during a term of three years as wool stapler in a De Lainc factory in 
 Boston, Mass., he deemed that he did well when he could get from the bulk as- 
 sorted 30 per cent, of wool fit for combing and manufacturing into that fabric. 
 Of the wool he was then receiving — the crop of 1863, as it came in indis- 
 criminately — Mr. P. saitl he could get from .50 to 60 per cent, of good combing 
 wool. He further said if wools were properly assorted here and the combing 
 portion graded and baled and marked according to its quality, and shipped to 
 New Yorl, or Boston, it would soon draw the attention of De Laine manufac- 
 turers to ihis country as a source of supply for this most valuable kind of wool. 
 We have further practical proof of the suj)eriority of Oregon wool, in the fact 
 that San Francisco papers as late as July last, quoted Oregon wool as selling 
 three cents per pound above California wool sold on the same day. 
 
 " The fact of the superiority of Oregon wool is an encouraging circumstance 
 to those engaged, or about to engage in raising it. But they will never reap 
 tlie full benefit of it so long as they allow the business men of California to put 
 their crops into market : so long as this is the case, the fact will be used to 
 spread the fame of California, as a wool-producing country, and so long will 
 Oregon dwell in the shadow of Caliiornia, and feel the blighting influence, 
 This is the inevitable result, even without any effort on the part of California 
 merchants. It goes from their port in their shipping mart ; the buyer cares 
 no more but to know that he is receiving a good article for his money, and 
 it would be too much to expect the California mercliant to inform bis customer 
 that it was the product of another state. * * * 
 
 " The success of the woolen manufactory at Salem, started under more ad- 
 verse circumstances than, it is believed, will ever again exist on this coast, 
 
NATCHAL WKALTII AND HKSOmc^KS. 
 
 rm 
 
 .liinv) pLiiiily tliiit a Do Liiiru' factory would bo cmincntl/ Biu'ccBsful Ihto wliure 
 I riicli jjoiiils arc worn tliroiiifho.it tlm yt-nr.* 
 
 "Ami tliiTf is no doiilil tliiit tluTc is iii:iiiy a fanner in the ^liiMIc and Wiist- 
 ,ni Stiilcs wIki, worn down liy tlif dcldlitiitini; inlliii'ncfs ofiniiisnwitic climaU-is 
 wdiilil <H't a ni'w least' of lill! by clianj^in-? his hn-ation and beconiinjt a 8ljec.|>- 
 nii-ir iiinlcr llic dear skies and pure air of KaNtvrn ()rf<;on. • » » » • 
 
 • Tluiv are at present more prouiisinj; inilueeuienlM lor the ()re)i;on Ihnner to 
 iiirii iii^ attention to the raisin;^ of sheep and wool (where his lands are of a 
 -iiiiable kind,) than any other branch of farnun>;, for the reasons: 1st. That 
 in that Dciupation the farrniT can ^ct alonjj witli less hired 'lelp, which is al- 
 ways iiard to j,'ct of a reliable kind, and will continue to be, ni Ion;; as the dis- 
 i„v(iy of new <rol(l mines continues. 2d. Sheep eat nearer to the ground and 
 a pvMrv variety of [dants, and consecpiently re((nire less labor in jirovidini; 
 liiiiii liiod than any other domestic animal which yields anyihin;; like the re- 
 turn which they yield. 8d. Tliere are two [)roducts from sheej), i()r either of 
 iviiidi there is a ;;reater pros[)ective market than lor any other farm ))roduct 
 wiuaii raise. We have already <;lanced at tlu! condition of the market with re- 
 ;;anl to wool. 'It is the only thing raised by the farmers of Orcj^on that con- 
 tains enough value in proportion to its weight to bear the expense of trans|)or- 
 taiiiiu to the Atlantic States. It is the only product that cannot be raised 
 {■l:ca|icr in the Atlantic States than here. It is the only product of the soil of 
 ()ri'\'on (gold excepted) which we can send to the Eastern seaboard in ex- 
 (•i,an;;e tor the clothing, boots and shoes, machinery, iron, etc., etc., which we 
 imist buy there or elsewhere until we can build up manutiU'tures of our own.' 
 Ami manufactures we nuist have, unless we can contentedly remain utterly do- 
 pendent n[)on the manufacturing skill of other communities, subject to the in- 
 conveniences of interruption in time of war, and the always increasing cost of 
 transjjorlation, which, as the producers of the raw material and consumers of the 
 manufactured article, we must pay all the cost of, according to the amount of 
 our consumjttion. The market for good wool-bearing stock sheep is only to l>e 
 measured by the extent of the country yet unoccupied and fit tor grazing pur- 
 poses lying between the Pa<.'ific Ocean and the western base of the Ko<!ky 
 Mountains. Tlie market for mutton will be in accordance with the increase of 
 i; Nation; it can be i)roduced cheaper and will always sell higher than beef 
 mill \\.'' country is glutted with wool-bearing Hocks. 
 
 '■ ( )r(' . I m lies on the western edge of an immense extent of country — reach- 
 ii ' from Mexico to the British line; from Kansas to the Pacific Ocean — which, 
 with the exception of the belt between the Cascade Mountains and the ocean, 
 covered by parts of California, Oregon, and Washington 'J'erritory, is fitted for 
 pa itoral pursuits only. She has within her own borders a large j)ortion of tho 
 best of that natural pasture. Within that, and almost surrounded by it, she 
 has the largest compact body of good wheat land on the Pacific slojje ; which, 
 
 * Since the above was written a large factory .at Oregon City has commenced 
 manufactiu-ing de lalnes, and several kinds of cloths. 
 
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 •' WESTKllN OUEGOX. . * cj /,v- 
 
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 snrro in<ltd and intermingled with never-faiiing water-power, makes the Willa- 
 mette Valley adapted by nature for the cheap support of a dense uianuiacturinir 
 population, in a three-fold greater degree than ever was either Old or Isew Kne. 
 land. She may, if her citizens will it, do her full share of first supplviuw all 
 the region drained by the waters of the ( olumbia River with stock sheep, and 
 then manufacture the wool raised from them and their increase. She mav be- 
 eonio to the north-west coast of America what England is now to the world 
 and what New England is to the United States in the power of their manufac- 
 tnrng commerce — following the settlements as they spread to the East and 
 Korth with her improved stjck and woolen fabrics." 
 
 Since Mr. Minto wrote his able essay on Sheep raising, 
 further facts have come to hght concerning the quaUty of 
 wool raised in the Eastern portion of Oregon. It lias 
 been well ascertained that the alkaline properties of the 
 grass on which the sheep feed in some portions of Eastern 
 Oregon, as well as the dust which settles upon them, has 
 a deteriorating effect upon the wool ; and that so far no 
 good fleeces have been obtained from those regions. Un- 
 doubtedly the very best sheep-pastures are to be found on 
 the Western side of the Cascade Mountains ; though many 
 valuable sheep-ranges may yet be discovered in the terri- 
 tory lying east of the Cascades and west of the Rocky 
 Mountains. 
 
 Timber and Lumber ing. — The State of Oregon, although 
 in reality a prairie State, has immense lumbering resources. 
 The principal timbers made into lumber are the firs and 
 cedars. These grow along the streams and on the moun- 
 tain ranges, affording fine facilities for milling, and for 
 exporting lumber. A large amount of lumbering is done 
 along the coast, at Coos Bay and Port Orford. All 
 along the Columbia River, from its mouth to the Dalles, a 
 distance of nearly two hundred miles, are dense forests of 
 the most magnificent sized trees, which make superior 
 
 lumber. „v' , ^ . rvf^^ -.r-,- 
 
 •^ ■• The exports from the Columbia River are about 4,000,- 
 000 feet annually, which find a market at San Francisco, 
 
NATUilAL WEALTH AND RESOURCES. 
 
 535 
 
 and the Sandwich Islands, chiefly. The lumber trade of 
 Oro'njn is but in its infancy, being capable of almost 
 unlimited development. 
 
 Tarpeiituie^ Ta>% and Rosin. — Not only do the forests of 
 Oregon furnish exhaustless supplies of lumber, but they 
 ort'er also an immense source of wealth to the enterprising 
 manufacturer of turpentine, tar, and rosin. T. A. Wood 
 & Co., of Portland, who are engaged in manufacturing 
 these articles, give the following statement on this subject: 
 
 " Every day more fully demonstrates the fact that the supply of crude tur- 
 pontiiR' is inexhaustible, and the probabilities are that this supply will never 
 orrow less, from two facts : 
 
 1st. The forests best suited for and richest in balsam, arc those rough moun- 
 tain sidi's that the farmer can never reduce to tilla<i;e. 
 
 2il. The trees when robbed of their accumulated supi)ly will, like the " busy 
 lice," commence the work of replenishing their stores, or refilling the cavities 
 or '• sli.ikcs," to be annually or semi-annually robbed. 
 
 From the crude article we manufacture turpentine, pitch, bright varnish, 
 ros'ii, and axle-grease. In the limited time we have been in operation we have 
 consumed 21,000 gallons of crude balsam. From this our manufacture will ap- 
 proximate : turpentine, 5,000 gallons ; pitch, 400 barrels ; bright varnish, 70 
 barrels ; axle-grease, 25 cases. 
 
 AVe claim that the above articles are equal in quality to any manufactured in 
 the United States, and not without proof. The turpentine being made from 
 l)iilsam of fir, is as far superior to pine turpentine, for medical use, as fir balsam 
 is superior to pine pitch for medical purposes. The Portland physicians who 
 have tried it speak loudly in praise of its medical virtues. 
 
 Undi'r date of July 16 th, 1864, Mr. P. C. Dart, of San Francisco, says : 
 " Yo ir turpentine is now preferred over California make, and I obtained twenty- 
 five cents on tlie gallon, in advance of the California article. This fact is cer- 
 taiiilv encoura<'ing'." 
 
 The boat pitch is superior to any ever shipped to this coast. Capt. Kellogg 
 said he • used on the steamer Senator one barrel of States pitch and one of 
 Oreii;()n pitch, and would rather by one hundred dollars have used all Oregon 
 ]iiteh. The calkers said the barrel of Oregon pitch was worth three of the 
 States pitch.' 
 
 Though our business has not been verj' extensive, we have opened a trade 
 with China, Sandwich Islands, Vancouver's Island, California, and arc now 
 niakino; a shipment to New York. It is our intention to enlarge our works, and 
 if we do, as now designed, we shall export, from July 1865 to July 1866, over 
 1,200 tons of manufactured articles. In fact, the crude turpentine is in such 
 abundance as to supply the world, if brought into use." 
 
 I t' 
 
 ^' .1 
 
 4*!t 
 
536 
 
 WESTERN OREGO^. 
 
 Fish and Fisheries. — Oregon furnishes some of the fin- 
 est fisheries in the world. From the roaring mountain 
 torrent, filled with the beautiful speckled trout, to the 
 largest rivers, and the ocean bays, all its waters are alive 
 with fish. In the latter are found cod, sturgeon, carp, 
 flounders, perch, herring, crabs, and oysters. Tillamook 
 and Yaquina Bays are the principal oyster beds. 
 
 All the rivers along the coast furnish salmon, the largest 
 being taken in the Columbia. They run up the rivers twice 
 during the year, commencing in May, and again in Octo- 
 ber. Notwithstanding their great numbers, but few are 
 taken for commercial purposes, although 100,000 barrels 
 might be secured annually, and sold for ten dollars per 
 barrel. 
 
 The following interesting extract is from Father P. J. 
 De Smet's book on the Oregon Missions : 
 
 " My presence among the Indians did not interrupt their fine and abundant 
 fisliery. An enormous basket was fastened to a projecting rock, and the fincjt 
 fish of the Columbia, as if by fascination, east themselves by dozens into the 
 snare. Seven or eight times during the day, these baskets were examined, and 
 each time were found to contain about two himdred and fifty salmon. The In- 
 dians, meanwhile, were seen on every projecting rock, piercing the fish with the 
 greatest dexterity. 
 
 They who do not know this territory may accuse me of exaggeration, when I 
 aflirm, that it would be as easy to count the pebbles so profusely scattered on 
 the shores, as to sum up the number of different kinds of fish which this west- 
 ern river furnishes for man's support ; as the buffalo of the north, and the deer 
 from north to east of the mountains furnish daily food for the inhabitants of 
 those regions, so do these fish supply the wants of the western tril)es. One 
 may ibrm some idea of the quantity of ■ aon and other fish, by remarking, that 
 at the time they ascend the rivers, all the tribes inhabiting the shores, choose 
 favorable locations, and not only do they find abundant nutriment during the 
 seasim, but, if diligent, they dry, and also pulverize and mix with oil a sufficient 
 quantity for the rest of the year. Incalculable shoals of salmon ascend to the' 
 river's source, and there die in shallow water. Groat quantiti(!s of trout and 
 carp follow them and regale themselves on the spawn deposited by the salmon 
 in holes and still water. Tlie fi)llowing year the young salmon descend to the 
 sea, and I have been told, (I cannot vouch lor the authenticity.) that they 
 never return until the fourth year. Six different species arc found in the 
 Columbia." 
 
■p^ 
 
 NATURAL WEALTH AND RESOURCES. 
 
 537 
 
 om Father P. J, 
 
 Game. The game of Oregon is principally Bear, Pan- 
 ther, Elk, Deer, Antelope, Squirrel, Geese, Swan, Ducks, 
 Pheasants, Grouse, and Quail. In the Wallanict Valley are 
 found some B')ar and Elk, and an abundance of black and 
 white-tailed Deer, and Geese and Ducks. -- ♦ 
 
 In the Umpqua, Rogues and Claniet valleys are found 
 an abundance of Elk, Deer, Antelope, Geese, and Ducks. 
 The Deer of this country have been represented by some 
 as small and inferior. Such is not the fiict. The meat of 
 the Deer of Oregon is as tender and delicious as the Deer 
 of any other portion of the United States. The meat of 
 the black-tailed Deer of this country is much superior to 
 the meat of the white-tailed Deer of New York, Pennsyl- 
 vania, or the Western States. 
 
 Salt The salt of Oregon is obtained from springs, and 
 is of very superior quality. The springs are numerous in 
 the western part of Multnomah County, in the valley of 
 the Lower Wallamet, in Columbia County, adjoining, and 
 also in Douglas County, or the Umpqua Valley. Those in 
 Douglas County have been worked for some time, manu- 
 facturing about 1,000 pounds per day, which being con- 
 sumed in the neighborhood of the works, does not offer 
 itself in the Portland market ; neither would the distance 
 and difficulties of transportation admit of its seeking a 
 market in this place. There may be other springs in dif- 
 ferent counties worked in a small way. The salt works 
 lately erected in the Lower Wallamet Valley are situated 
 half way between Portland and St. Helen, at the foot of 
 the hills which skirt the river, and about half a mile dis- 
 tant from it. There are a number of springs in this local- 
 ity, and extending along near the base of this range of 
 hills from 12 to 20 miles. Only one spring is used at 
 present at the Wallamet Salt Works, and the present 
 works are only experimental. From this one spring, or 
 
'538 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 iTAH 
 
 I 1 
 
 
 \'-'- 
 
 
 i 1 
 
 
 : t ... 
 
 
 ifciii, 
 
 
 
 well (for it has been decptned 27 feet) with all the sur- 
 face water in it, and with only one furnace, the ccmpany 
 have been making from 500 to 700 pounds of salt per day 
 that probably has no superior in any part of the world. 
 It crystalizes with a handsome, fine grain ; is bright, spark- 
 ling and as white as snow. It is entirely free from lime 
 or any deleterious substance, so that as a dairy salt, or for 
 curing of meats, fish, etc., it is of th*? very best quality. 
 So strong are its preservative qualities that dairymen say 
 they need use only two-thirds as much of it as of Liverpool 
 salt ; and the Portland butchers who have used it declare 
 it worth $10 more per ton than any salt in the market,— 
 that they use the brine over and over. Its quality, then, 
 is perfectly satisfactory, and the company are about erect- 
 ing new and extensive works for boiling, beside improv- 
 ing the saline properties of the water in the springs by 
 boring and piping, to exclude surface or any other fresh 
 water. 
 
 Coal. That there will be found to be a large supply 
 of coal in Oregon is beyond a doubt. The Coos Bay 
 coal is not unknown in San Francisco, though its quality 
 has never gained for it much of a reputation. Other de- 
 posits have been discovered on the coast further to the 
 north. A mine is now being worked on the Cowlitz river, 
 six or eight miles from its junction with the Colun .la, 
 which bids fair to supersede in merii any yet discovered 
 on the Pacific Coast. The structure and appearance of the 
 Oregon coal are peculiar, and at first liable to mislead the 
 judgment as to its quality. It has a glossy surface, is 
 rather light in weight, is perfectly clean to handle and 
 makes no soot in burning, all of which makes it a pleasant 
 fuel for grates and culinary purposes. It also lights very 
 readily, burns freely in the open air, and is free from sul- 
 phur. It shows, or appears to show, a woody structure, 
 
NATURAL WEALTH AND RESOUUCES. 
 
 639 
 
 nr 
 
 o 
 
 yet is a hard coal, making- an intense boat and holdin 
 lire for many hours. When burnt it emits a clear wliite 
 flame, and leaves a white ash, without depositing strong 
 substances, or clinkers. It is not anthracite, nor bitumi- 
 nous, though nearly as hard as the first, and quite as influm 
 alile as the latter. Some miners call it cannel ; some say 
 it resembles Scotch splinth ; but altogether it is easier to 
 say wliat it is not than what it is. The fossils found in 
 connection with it have created some doubt as to its age, 
 many of thera seeming to belong to the tertiary period, 
 while others evidently are palm leaves. 
 
 Iron. Extensive beds of iron ore of a very pure qual- 
 ity are known to exist both on the Wallamet and on the 
 Columbia rivers. Those on the Wallamet are situated 
 about six miles south of Portland, and about eighteen above 
 the mouth of the river. Furnaces were erected two years 
 since by a Portland Company, who after sending some 
 iron to San Francisco pronounced equal to the Swedish 
 iron, have stopped manufacturing on account of some dif- 
 ficulty about the land on which the beds are situated, or 
 the water-power used in connection with it. It is to be 
 hoped that the entanglement, from whatever cause it arises, 
 will soon be removed. Very extensive beds of the same 
 kind of ore are found on the Columbia in the county of 
 that name, but so far have not been worked. 
 
 Lead. This metal is found in abundance in southern 
 Oregon, and in the Cascade Mountains, but only in con- 
 junction with other metals. No attempt has yet been 
 made to work it on account of the difficulty of separating 
 the ores, and its low price in the market. In the future, 
 however, it will be brought into notice along with other 
 mineral productions. 
 
 Copper. The copper mines of Oregon have never yet 
 been worked, yet for richness and favorable location they 
 surpass those on the lower coast. This metal is found on 
 
 li 
 
 M.'^ 
 
 if 
 
 I! ' il 
 
 I 
 
540 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 • I r' i > y 
 
 tlio Rof^uc, Umpqua, Coquille, and San tiam rivers. Those 
 on tlie Cociuillo are tlic most favorably situated for the 
 sliipinent of ores. Very rich mines are located in Joseph- 
 ine county, but await the era of railroads 'for their devel- 
 opment. 
 
 Gold and Silver. Gold is found in paying quantities on 
 the Umpqua, Rogue, and Illinois rivers, and their tributa- 
 ries ; on the sea-beach at the mouth of the Umpqua and 
 Coquille rivers, and at various places along the coast. But 
 the richest mines have been discovered in a district called 
 the Santiam from the river of that name, about seventy 
 miles east of Salem, in the center of the State. The ore 
 from these mines assays from $20 to $10,000 per ton. 
 Silver is also found in connection with it. 
 
 Oregon has never, until within the last five years, been 
 known as a mineral region. The character of the early 
 settlers predisposing them to agricultural pursuits caused 
 them to overlook the possible mineral wealth of the terri- 
 tory, even after the breaking out of the gold excitement 
 in California had made known to the world the existence 
 of rich mineral deposits on the Pacific coast. Those 
 who were taken with the gold fever went to California, 
 leaving unexplored the country nearer home. Gradually, 
 however, and little by little, it became known that there 
 were deposits of the precious metals in Oregon. Placer 
 diggings in Southern Oregon and along the coast began 
 -to be worked as early as 1851-2. Copper, iron, and coal 
 "were discovered, but with the exception of the coal mines 
 near the sea-coast, remained unworked. 
 
 Meanwhile gold continued to be discovered on every 
 side, in British Columbia, Washington Territory, and Ida- 
 ho, while Oregon, ever slow and deliberate amidst the 
 . hurry of events, made no effort to unveil the mysteries of 
 her bosom. In 1861, the mines of Idaho were discovered 
 
NATURAL WEALTH AND RESOURCES. 
 
 541 
 
 at the moiitli of Oro Fino Creek by E. D. Pierce, an Indi- 
 an tmdor, at the head of a prospecting j)arty of ten men. 
 The excitement which followed the published accounts of 
 these mines, caused a rush of explorers in that region of 
 country now known as Idaho, which resulted in the dis- 
 covery of gold on the head-waters and tributaries of the 
 Clearwater. 
 
 Among these adventurers were numbers from the Wal- 
 ianiet valley, who in crossing the country east of the Cas- 
 ciule range, made the discovery of placer diggings on the 
 John Day, Powder, and Burnt rivers, in Eastern Oregon. 
 In 18G4, quartz leads were also discovered on Eagle creek 
 between Powder, and Burnt rivers; anii towns are already 
 built on each of these rivers. Thus was Oregon at last 
 revealed to the world as a mineral district, unsurpassed in 
 riehncss by very few districts in the world. 
 
 Building Materials. The mountains, in which are proba- 
 bly deposited, quarries of different kinds of building stone, 
 have been but little prospected with a view to the discov- 
 ery of these materials for substantial structures. Lumber 
 has been so abundant, cheap, and excellent in quality, 
 that it has been unnecessary to search out the treasures 
 contained in the bosom of the earth. There is no lack, 
 however, of stone suitable for masonry ; nor of clay to 
 make (excellent brick. Limestone deposits exist in the 
 Ilmpqua valley, in the hills back of the Clatsop Plains, in 
 the highlands back of the Tualatin Plains, and in other 
 parts of the Wallamet valley, and aiong the Columbia 
 river, especially near its mouth. Southern Oregon fur- 
 nishes numerous fine ledges of the best crystalline marble, 
 susceptible of the highest polish. Sandstone occurs in the 
 Coast range of mountains. 
 
 Baric for Tanning Leather. The forests and plains of 
 Oregon furnish an unlimited supply of oak, fir, and hem- 
 
 li 
 
 ti: 
 
 1^ 
 III 
 
 >•(<*«; 
 
512 
 
 WESTERN OREGON. 
 
 I I 
 
 ! I 
 
 5: 
 J, 
 
 lock bark, suitable for tanning purposes, while the exten- 
 sive pastures of the State can keep supplied, jnlimited 
 quantities of hides for manufacturing leather. 
 
 Grain Raisimj and Flour Making. The production of 
 wheat must over remain one of the greatest resources of 
 the State. Surrounded on every side by pasture lands, 
 Oregon has " the largest compact body of good wheat land 
 on the Pacific slope, which surrounded and intermingled 
 with never-failing water-power, makes the Wallamet val- 
 ley adapted by nature for the cheap manufacture of bread- 
 stuffs." •: .. 
 
 Wheat yields an average of thirty bushels to the acre, 
 and in cases of good cultivation nearly double that amount, 
 Oats, fifty to seventy-five bushels to the acre. Other 
 grains in proportion ; and all kinds of pulse equally well. 
 
 Flax and Hemp. Flax and hemp grow to a great size, 
 and produce a better fibre than in any other country. 
 Flax yields a large amount of seed, and an oil-mill would 
 do well in this State. There is no reason why linen 
 goods may not be profitably manufactured in Oregon. 
 
 Tobacco. Tobacco has been grown in Oregon, equal 
 to the best Virginia leaf Eastern Oregon is peculiarly 
 fitted for the cultivation of this plant ; and only experi- 
 enced hands to cure it are wanted, to make the Oregon 
 tobacco as celebrated as any in the United States. 
 
 Hops. The rainless summers of this country, together 
 with the absence of heavy dews, make it very favorable 
 for hop-raising. The crop is always certain, and may be 
 cured in the open air. Hops will become one of the reg- 
 ular exports of the State. 
 
 Fruits — Preserving. The great and steady fruit-crops 
 of Oregon, together with the abundance of berries grow- 
 ing wild in all parts of the State, offer superior induce- 
 ments for the establishment of preserving houses in the 
 
KASTKK.V ()1U:(".()\. 
 
 513 
 
 while the exton- 
 plied, anlimited 
 ler. 
 
 e production of 
 est resources of 
 y pasture lands, 
 ^ood wheat land 
 II d intermingled 
 3 Wallamet val- 
 facture of bread- 
 
 [lels to the acre, 
 ble that amount, 
 le acre. Other 
 Ise equally well. 
 • to a great size, 
 '■ other country. 
 m oil-mill would 
 ason why linen 
 1 in Oregon. 
 I Oregon, equal 
 on is peculiarly 
 -nd only experi- 
 
 ake the Oregon 
 
 States. 
 
 untry, together 
 very favorable 
 
 ain, and may be 
 
 one of the reg- 
 
 eady fruit-crops 
 f berries grow- 
 uperior induce- 
 houses in the 
 
 Wiilliimot valley. No such cstablislnnont exists, thoun-h 
 the miners away up in Idaho buy fruits preserved in tho 
 Atlantic States and (^Uifoniia. 
 
 Jlunet/. It is but about five years since bees were in- 
 troduced into Oregon. They thrive well, and produce a 
 Iari:'e amount of honey. 
 
 J'ofafovfi and Vcyt'tdblea. Potatoes are excellent in this 
 State, and yield abundantly; from throe hundred to four, 
 or oven six hundred bushels Ijeing grown on an acre of 
 LTonnd. The very best cabbages in the world are grown 
 ill Oregon, and in great numbers. The same maybe said 
 of Ciiulitiower. Melons and 8{juashes do well, growing to 
 a frroat size. Onions, like cabbage are very superior in 
 this soil and climate, being mild and sweet to a degree 
 unknown in the Eastern States. All other vegetables and 
 riKifs thrive well, and are of good quality, 
 
 III short, if an Oregon farmer does not enjoy the com- 
 forts of life, he has no one to blame except himself for the 
 lack of these things. ' ' " ■' ' 
 
 Eastrhn Oregon was long regarded as a desert country, 
 nnl)lcs.sed by God and undesired by man. That was 
 wlicn the emigration to Oregon, coming overland all the 
 way from Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, and more southern 
 States, arrived at the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, 
 with stock and provisions more than half exhausted, to 
 enter upon a country not only more rugged in appearance 
 than that already passed over, but presentin-j new fea- 
 tures and new characteristics, against which, from igno- 
 rance of the facts, they had failed to prepare themselves. 
 They found, west of the Rocky Mountains, a totally differ- 
 ent climate from any they had over experienced : delight- 
 ful enough in summer, on the mountains, but hot and dry 
 on the plains. Their road led them over bare rocks, re- 
 flecting strongly the heat of a cloudloss sky ; over sands 
 35 
 
544 
 
 EA.^TEllN OKECION. 
 
 r 
 
 - ) 
 
 buniiii^^ lu)t, and terribly hoavy for their teams; over 
 all<ali (loHortH, which they knew not how to uvuic, and 
 poHt boiinifj; s[)rin«,^s whose (li.sagreea])]e fumes lillcd the 
 air. They were too weary to bring Miueh ener<;y to tiio 
 overcoming of such (bflicullics as fell in tlicir way, and 
 ' too discouraged with these! dilliculties to be fairly ihiuikfid 
 for the occasional oases which beautified tluiir (h'sert; so 
 that, when once they had set foot within the ever-vordiint 
 valleys west of the Cascade range, the tawny colored liills 
 and plains of bhdio and Eiustern Oregon — then all Ore|,njn 
 Territory — were remembered only as '' that God-fursakcn 
 country." A few emigrants and travelers were i>.telligcnt 
 enough to observe the evidences of extensive mineral de- 
 posits, but most of these never looked forward to seeinf; 
 this country occupied, and its minerals made the source 
 of wealth. And least of all did they foresee that much, 
 very much, of this "God-forsaken country" would prove 
 to be of wonderful fertility, so that, in the year 18G9, 
 many portions of it have " blossomed like the rose." 
 Such, at all events, is the history of Eastern Oregon. 
 
 There is, ijjidoubtedly, a large proportion of waste 
 lands in this part of the State. There are alkali plains 
 ' and sage deserts, and in some parts, bare rocks coming to 
 the surface. The alkali plains may never be made fit for 
 • cultivation. The sage deserts are not quite so hopeless, 
 ' as some portions of them have been found susceptible of 
 '- cultivation in California, and they may not prove to be so 
 '- worthless as has been believed; but the, rocks are afore- 
 gone conclusion. • ■•' ■•-" ■-'-.,^ 
 
 In Eastern Oregon, Eastern Washington, and Idaho, 
 
 '-'■ the same general aspect of country prevails, except in 
 
 the most northern portions of the two latter Territories, 
 
 ■ which are more heavily timb' ; i, and rather better 
 
 . watered. But south of parallc; i /, and between the Cas- 
 
m 
 
 EASTERN OREGON. 
 
 545 
 
 oado Moiintiiins and the westernmost divide of the Tloeky 
 Mnuiitiiins, the conntry consists entirely of high rolling' 
 pliiiiis destitute of timber, and mountain ridges covered 
 wil'i timber; with the exception, however, of depressions 
 between the mountains and high tablelands, wlun-e lakes 
 and niiirshcs may sometime? ^9 found. The soil, ))()th of 
 tlu; plains and the mountains, i . excellent. lUit a small 
 portion of the plains will evor be cultivated, for \v;int of 
 tlic moans of irrigation, ^i o they will prove very valuable 
 fur stock-raising purposes, as they are covered with a 
 natural growth of excellent bnnch-grass. The mountain- 
 sides, when cleared, will })roduce fruit of the best ((uality; 
 but it is n])on the valley lands that the firmer Avill cliiefly 
 depcMd for his grain-fields. There is no reason evident 
 why grapes should not do well east of the Cascades in 
 Oregon. The soil and climate are quite similar to those 
 of California, where the grape flourishes best. Corn 
 fjrows well in the valleys, and other grains and vegetables 
 produce renmrkably Avell. It is worthy of menti(^n here, 
 that, at the late agricultural fair in Eastern Oregon, the 
 })roniium for some kinds of vegetables was awarded to an 
 Indian farmer of the Umatilla tribe. Mm ^ifm m -oti'Si 
 
 Eastern Oregon is crossed obliquely by the chain of the 
 Blue Mountains, which commence about at the eastern 
 boimdary of Washington Territory, where the Snake 
 River bends to the south, and take a course southwest 
 to near the centre of Eastern Oregon, where they bend 
 more to the west, until they connect with the range of 
 highlands along the Dep Chutes River, which runs be- 
 tween these hills and the Cascade range. Where the 
 Blue Mountains cross the State, they form, with the spurs 
 which they send out to the east and south, the divide, 
 or water-shed between the waters which flow into the 
 Columbia and those which flow into the numerous lakes 
 
546 
 
 EASTERN OREGON. 
 
 S . 
 
 r 
 ■ 
 
 i 
 i 
 
 
 1 
 
 ■ 1 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 .Ji ; 
 
 of the Oregon portion of the Great Basin, or sink into 
 thirsty sands. •---..-, 
 
 The scenery, the geology, and topography of this por- 
 tion of Oregon (the Khimath Basin) are alike remarkable. 
 The irregular hills, covered with burnt rock and scoriae; 
 the fearful chasms, and sharp, needle-shaped rocks of its 
 basaltic mountains; its mysterious reservoirs of water; 
 its salt lakes and alkaline plains, seem to mark it for a 
 country uninhabitable by man, and the resort only of 
 myriads of wild-fowl, which here hatch their young in 
 safety, and the refuge of marauding Indians who retire 
 here after a successful raid into the settlements. Yet it 
 will not be left to these, for the explorer and surveyor are 
 already traversing it everywhere, and roads are being 
 opened in various directions, connecting with the mines 
 of Idaho, and with the towns and mines near the Colum- 
 bia River. Nor will it be found unfit for settlement. In 
 many parts are very desirable places for farms or stock- 
 raising ; while the excellence of the routes which lead 
 across the southern portion of Oregon, for the use of the 
 emigration and traders to the mines, over those which 
 cross near the Columbia River, will make every available 
 section of land desirable for settlement. 
 
 The Great Basin consists of an elevated plateau, raised 
 five thousand feet above the level of the ocean, and vary- 
 ing in surface between low hills, arid plains, marshes, salt 
 and fresh lakes, and occasional fertile valleys. It is 
 bounded by the Cascade Mountains on the west, whose 
 foot-hills, covered with a beautiful growth of pine, extend 
 
 • away nearly to the eastern border of Klamath Lake ; on 
 the north by the divide of the Blue Mountains; and on 
 the -east by another low range of mountains. To the 
 south it extends into California, Nevada, and Utah. 
 
 "* The following extracts from the report of Col. C. S, 
 
THE KLAMATH BASIN. 
 
 547 
 
 Drew, 1st Oregon Cavalry, who made a reconnoisance 
 tlirough Southern Oregon to Fort Boise, in the summer 
 of 18()4, will furnis^^ an idea of the cultivable country 
 between Fort Klamath and Fort Boise : . 
 
 AVillianison's River takes its rise in Klamath marsh, — or, as the Indians 
 claiiii. in Klamath Lake proper, — and riuinin<^ in a southerly course about 
 tliirty miles emjjties into the east side of Bi<,' Klamath Lake, sixteen miles 
 south of Fort Klamath. It is a considerable river — at the ford probably one 
 hundred yards wide. It is somewhat alkaline, and rendered more unpalatable 
 from havinir its source in swamps and tule marshes. The crossing is over a 
 lidije of volcanic sandstone extending entirely across the river and into the 
 banks on either side. The greatest depth of water is about three feet, and 
 this only for about ten yards. From this ledge the water falls about two feet 
 into a deep eddy below. 
 
 The soil immediately along the river, is a dark, sandy loam, but changes to 
 a lifiht granite, or volcanic ash, as we approach the uplands and mountains on 
 litlu-r side. 
 
 The country between Fort Klamath and the ford of Williamson's Kiver is 
 covered with a fine forest of yellow and sugar pine, with now and then a wliite 
 or red fir, and occasionally a good sized cedar, cotton-wood, or rather aspen, is 
 fri'i[Uont around the glades and along the smaller streams. Tliere are also 
 small forests and thickets of a species ot pine having as yet no popular name, 
 and seeuiin'ly peculiar to the Cascade Mountains. Fort Klamath is built 
 ill a beautiful grove of them, and they cover the sinnmit of the Cascade Moun- 
 tains along the northern base of Mount M'Laughlin, where the road crosses 
 bi'tween Fort Klamath and Jacksonville. 
 ********** 
 
 S])rague's River Valley is about forty miles long, and from two to fifteen 
 miles wide. Its general direction is from southeast to northwest. The banks 
 of the river, and of the numerous streams putting into it on either side, are 
 fringed with willows and cotton-wood, and the entire valley is skirted with a 
 continuous forest of yellow pine, extending back to tlie summit of the moun- 
 tains by which it is bounded. It possesses all the natural requisites for a good 
 stork range, its low lands being covered with a fair growtli of marsh grasses, 
 wliile its uplands aiTord a bountiful supply of the more nutritious bunch-grass, 
 with an occasional spot of wild timothy. 
 
 Till- soil here is a dark, sandy loam, growing lighter and somewhat gravelly 
 towards the mountains. Outcroppings of lava and other volcanic products are 
 ginei'al, but there iire many tracts of land that oiler eligible farm sites, and 
 could he easily cultivated. 
 
 Tlie climate is similar to that of Fort Klamath, but the soil is quick and veg- 
 etation matures early. 
 
 Wild flax grows here so abundantly that in many places it presents the ap- 
 
 I 
 
548 
 
 EASTERN OREGON. 
 
 I I 
 
 I ! 
 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 \r 
 
 pearance of tolerably fair cultivation, and proclucos a fine stron"; fihrc. The 
 Btalk si'cins to sprinjj; from its root and contituics to grow until t-hockiul by the 
 frosts of autumn. In this way it seems probable that the old root retains sub- 
 stance onoujrh durin<r the winter to send out new shoots in the spring. » * » 
 
 "Passing out of l^^prague's river valley in a southeasterly direetion, we crossed 
 the (ioose Lake Mountains through a wide and smooth gap, and by an easy 
 giade, and entered a small fine valley situated to the westward of the northern 
 extremity oi" the valley around the upper portion of Goose Lake, but having an 
 outlet into it sjme distance down its western border. 
 
 " This little valley is .about fitieen miles long, having a general direction from 
 north to south, and has an extreme width of about eight miles. It has a south- 
 ern exposure and a i'ertile soil. Its surroundings on the north, east, and west 
 are timber-covered mountains, while a low range of grass-covered hills bound it 
 on the southward, separating it from the basin of Goose Lake. It is well wa- 
 tered by several mountain streams, and by springs, fringed with willow, and in 
 some places with the cotton-wood, and is covered with a luxuriant growth of 
 grass. Its soil excels that of Sprague's ri\er valley in its general adaptation to 
 agricultural purposes. * » * * 
 
 " From a point on the east side of the little valley into which wc had entered, 
 and about twelve miles ti'om its head, we diverged to the eastward, and passing 
 over some low grassy hills and along the bank of a small mountain stream run- 
 ning in a southeasterly direction, we descended into Goose Lake basin by a very 
 easy grade, through a renuirkably smooth depression in its western rim. 
 
 *' From this pass to the head of Goose Lake, the first four miles was across a 
 sage desert that extends southward down the western border of the lake as far 
 as the eye can see. 
 
 " From tliis desert to the head of Goose Lake the surface of the country is 
 undulating, though from any considerable distance it has the appearance of be- 
 ing entirely level. 
 
 " The uplands arc generally covered with a luxiiriant growth of bun ch-grass, 
 but in many places the outcropping of lava renders them unfit for other than 
 grazing purposes. For these, however, they excel any portion of the country 
 yet j)assi'd over. 
 
 " The lowlands along the numerous little streams, all putting in from the 
 northward and converging towarils the head of the lake, but generally sinking 
 before they reiU'h it, are extremely fertile, and well adapted for cultivation. A 
 email jx)rti(ju of them, bordering imm:;diately on the lake, are somewhat alka- 
 line, but produce in many places an excellent growth of rye-grass, and other 
 TCgetatiou incident to a moderate alkali region. 
 
 " The valley is beautifully studded with large willows and some cotton-wood 
 that fringe its streams, and timber of good quality is abundant and easy of ac- 
 cess around its northern extremity and down along its eastern border. 
 
 " 'Ilie main portion of the valley, from its northern extremity down to the 
 lake, is about twenty miles in length, and from the Sierra Nevada Mountains 
 which bound it on the east to its western rim, the distance is nearly the same. 
 
iJOOSE LAKE VALLEY. 
 
 549 
 
 ^1" 
 
 III this area is contained the most viiluable agricultural land of the Goose Lake 
 
 jasin. 
 
 "Along till! eastern shore of the lake, however, there is considerable good 
 grazing comitrv, with an occasional tract of good fanning land, covered with 
 luxuriant wild clover in addition to all the wild grasses coiunion to the fertile, 
 poriions of tlu! country. 
 
 ■•Numerous creeks and springs of good water put into the east side of the 
 hikr t'roni the Sieira Nevada Mountains. 
 
 '•Timber is also abundant along the base of the Sierras, vip their ravines, and 
 in mimy i)laces up their sides to the summit. 
 
 '• in the way of game, antelope and deer are quite plenty, and ' old bruin ' is 
 met occasionally. Sand-hill cranes, ducks of every variety, curlew, iind all 
 otliiT li)wls incident to California, ar> abundant throughout this region, and 
 along the streams iu the upper portion of the valley we saw numerous ' siorns ' 
 of otter. 
 
 ■• The lake is emphatically alkaline, but abounding with fish near its main in- 
 lets. Its surface is beautifully dotted everywhere with Hocks -f swan, resem- 
 blins, through mirage, so many fleets under sail. 
 
 '• Jlirage exists here to about the same extent that it does in and around San 
 Jose valley, Califijrnia. * * * * 
 
 '•Snrjjrise Valley is a long, narrow strip of land, stretched along the eastern 
 foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, and sloping down into alkaline lakes, 
 and the sand and sage desert that forms its eastern boundary. These foot-hills 
 and the lower portions of the spurs are generally covered with a bountiful 
 growth of bunch-grass, while between many of them, and sometimes extending 
 ont around them toward the dreary waste to the eastward, are small tracts of 
 excellent tillage land, covered with grass, rushes, and spots of clover and wild 
 pea-vine. It is well watered by springs and streams putting down from the 
 Sierras, but these usually sink on reaching the level of the lakes, and the sage 
 fields into which they flow. 
 
 '• Timber pine is abundant along the Sierras, and of fair quality. Game of 
 all kinds common to Calitornia, seems to be plenty. 
 
 The Red Bluff Independent has the following of Sur- 
 prise Valley. 
 
 "Tlie prospects of the settlers are of the most flattering description. There 
 are about one hundred families now settled down as industrious farmers, besides 
 a large floating population from the Owyhee and Puebla. Tlie recent opening 
 of communication with Red Blnfl" as a place at which they can obtain supplies 
 has stimulated them to further enterprise, as they have been heretofore almost 
 shut out from the rest of the world; but now they are sending in theii teams 
 for their winter supplies and purchasing more advantageously in Red. Bluff 
 than at Susanville, and they say the road is about as near to Red Bluff as it is 
 tu Susanville. A party of fifteen teams are expected in here this week. ITwt 
 
 ■■■•J! li 
 
 r I 
 
550 
 
 EASTERN OllEGON. 
 
 nu -^ 
 
 I ■■! 
 
 B'.iJwoll, which is estabashed at the north end of the valley, is nam»d after 
 Gen JdIiii Bidwdl, our repi-esciitativi- in C'on;:r('ss. and is loeated in Diie ol'the 
 finest natural loeations. T*<ear the new post are two sprin<;s of water, the one 
 hot and the other cold. 'Hie hospital is locaU-d between these two springs, and 
 so situateil that hot and eokl ballis eati be had at all hours. In I'act, the water 
 'hot and cold) will be conducted throughout the whole »;arrison. The health 
 of the valley is excellent, and settlers say they prefer it to the Sacramento val- 
 ley. The last year's crop of barley has been disposed cf to the .^oldiers at 3('. 
 per pound. Already parties have been talking of machinery for a grist mill to 
 be put up next spring. / ^ ' 
 
 '* Warner's Valley is similar to .Surprise Valley in point of location, form, and 
 general character. Its dii-ection is from south to north. The Sierras form it-; 
 western boundary for a distance of about fifteen miles from its souihcrn ex- 
 tremity, thence receding to the westward, and leaving a volcanic table to ton- 
 tinne Us border northward. 
 
 "Springs and streams arc fonnd at convenient distances along the base of the 
 Sierras, and two or more streams find (heir way from the same source, throuoh 
 deep cha?ms in the table that continues its western rim." 
 
 Such are some of the oases in the most desert part of 
 Eastern Oref,^on. The explorations ah'eady made have 
 demonstrated the fact that there is much mineral in the 
 mountains in this portion of Oregon, a circumstance which 
 must lead to its further exploration by experienced mi- 
 ners. A military road is being built from a point in the 
 neighborhood of Diamond Peak to a point in the Owyhee 
 country, which w^ill probably become the popular emigrant 
 road from the east into the Walhimet valley. The Red 
 Bluff route to Idaho City crosses this country, Cuicring it 
 at Goose Lake Valley. Also a road from Yrcka, Califor- 
 nia, to Canyon City on the John Day River, comes in 
 between the Klamath Lakes, and strikes across the conn- 
 try in a general direction northeast to the head- waters of 
 the John Day. Other projected routes will soon be 
 opened, leading from points on the Columbia River to the 
 Owyhee mines, .rntiiw 
 
 The northern portion of Eastern Oregon which is drained 
 by the Des Chutes, John Day, Umatilla, and Grande 
 Ronde Rivers ; and the extreme eastern portion wliich is 
 
 n 
 
KIVER^ 0? EASTERN OREGON. 
 
 551 
 
 (Iraiiu'd by the Powder, Burnt, and Malliour Rivers, eon- 
 wist entirely of rolling grassy plains, Avooded mountains, 
 iiud fertile valleys, the principal ones being tiiose on the 
 rivers already mentioned. These valleys constitute the 
 only in]ial)ited portions at the present time, but the plains 
 arc certainly destined to be taken up by stock-raisers. 
 
 Tiie Des Chutes is a rapid and rocky stream which will 
 never probably be made navigable, rising in the Cascade 
 Mountains near the borders of the Great Basin, and flow- 
 ing almost directly north into the Columbia. The valley 
 of the Dos Chutes has some considerable settlement, but 
 is yet chiefly unoccupied, though capable of supporting a 
 large population. The settlers for the most part are stock- 
 raisers ; but the demand for farm products in the neigh- 
 lioring mines is stimulating agricultural improvements. 
 The Des Chutes river abounds with salmon, and has numer- 
 ous tributaries whose banks are thinly wooded. The 
 Des Chutes, and nearly all the rivers of Eastern Oregon, 
 have high and steep banks which make the crossing diffi- 
 cult except at certain points. j ;..>.a;:ir- 
 
 The John Day River, like the Des Chutes, is unnaviga- 
 blc, being one of those swift rivers, full of rocks and rap- 
 ids, Avhich the salmon love to inhabit. It waters a large 
 valley running in nearly the same direction as the Des 
 Chutes, and only about thirty miles distant to the east. 
 It has only been settled since the gold discoveries in 1802. 
 It is very fertile, and has a good market in its mines. 
 Owing to the mildness of the climate in this region, min- 
 ing operations can be carried on through the greater por- 
 tion of the year — the want of water being the only hin- 
 drance to mining at any season. 
 
 The Umatilla River is a small stream emptying into 
 the Columbia, whose head-waters and southern tributaries 
 flow through a delightful country, fit either for cultivation 
 
 Vi 
 
 
552 
 
 ■y^ EASTERN OREGON. 
 
 .'if'":.j'j 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 or grazing. It waters in part the famous pastures of the 
 Nez Perce and Cayuse Indians, where formerly the chiefs 
 sometimes had fifteen hundred or two thousand head of 
 horses in one band, 
 
 Grande Ronde River rises in the eastern spurs of the 
 Blue Mountains, and has its course a little north of east 
 until it falls into the Snake river. Its valley is of a heau- 
 tiful round shape, and about twenty -five miles in diameter, 
 having the river running ahnost directly through the cen- 
 ter. It is enclosed between mountain ridges which send 
 down numerous streams of limpid water, keeping the val- 
 ley ever verdant. These streams are fringed with trees 
 which mark their meanderings, and add a grace and pic- 
 turesqueness to the landscape, which has gladdened the 
 eyes of thousands of overland emigrants, scorched with 
 travel over sun-burnt plains. In Grande Ronde valley 
 the land is probably all claimed, owing to its nearness to 
 the mines. Considerable grain is raised in this valley, and 
 made into flour in its own mills. The climate of the 
 Grande Ronde is agreeable, though sometimes subject to 
 deep snows in winter. ii".'<>r'^ imow una 
 
 Powder River is a smaP river, not navigable, but 
 affording good water-power. Its valley contains about 
 200,000 acres of farming land, of which 10,000 acres are 
 under cultivation. The climate is rather warmer and 
 drier than that of Grande Ronde, and the valley is rapidly 
 being settled up. Rich mines both of gold and copper 
 have been discovered, and the gold mines are being ex- 
 tensively worked. 
 
 South of Powder River valley the country is rough and 
 Ijroken, not suited to agriculture, but very well adapted 
 to grazing. Burnt river, and Malheur river, flow through 
 this mountain country into the river Snake. Gold has 
 been found in paying quantities on both these rivers, and 
 
FUTURE WEALTH AND RESOURCES. 
 
 553 
 
 lores which send 
 
 will iloubtloss be found on the tribuhiries of the Owyhee 
 ill the less explored region of sontlieastern Oregon. 
 
 The mountains of Eastern Oregon are generally well 
 wooded Avith forests of fir and birch, spruce and cedar, 
 and some groves of pine. Cotton-wood and willow fringe 
 the smaller streams, and the forests generally extend from 
 the mountains down the foot-hills nearly to the valleys, 
 but never grow along the main rivers. .-i- .: .: . • : Mf? 
 
 The climate of this part of the State of Oregon differs 
 entirely from that of the western portion. It is decidedly 
 a di'v climate ; rather warm in summer, and also somewhat 
 blonk in winter. The snow never falls to any depth on 
 the plains, but does occasionally fall heavily in the valleys. 
 The winters, however, are short, and farmers commence ' 
 putting in seed in March. 
 
 From what has been said of the resources of Eastern ■ 
 Oregon, it will be seen that a great portion of the' 
 wealth and importance of the State is in the future to be 
 derived from that portion lying east of the Cascade range, 
 and until recently considered of but little value. As a * 
 beefraising and wool-growing country it will become of 
 very great value, as auxiliary to its mines, which are rap- 
 idly becoming known, and already rival those of Idaho 
 and Montana. Although this portion of the State will 
 never, perhaps, become the seat of so dense a population 
 as the western portion, it will be found to contain the 
 means of great wealth and commercial prosperity in its 
 stock-ranches, its fields of corn and sorghum, its fruit 
 orchards, vineyards, flax and wool, as well as in its mines 
 of gold, silver, copper, lead, cinnabar, and plumbago. 
 
 The whole State of Oregon, East and West, comprises 
 an area of 102,600 square miles. Its population cannot 
 exceed 110,000. 
 
554 
 
 WASimJGXON TERlllTOBY. 
 
 •IMT 
 
 I 
 
 , •' ' ■ Offc 'jd7iH -Ml 
 
 V' 
 CHAPTER XL VI. >j.:. 
 
 I *^. ■ 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 K- ■ 
 
 
 
 
 i ■ ^^ 1 
 
 ; 
 
 
 Washington Territory is the northern half of the old 
 Oregon Territory, from the southern half of which its peo- 
 ple prayed to be separated in 1852. It has an area of 
 69,994 square miles ; being considerably less than Oregon 
 in extent. Its population is probably under 20,000. 
 
 In general terms Washington and Oregon resemble each 
 other both in the principal features of the country and in 
 climate. The chief difference consists in the more open 
 appearance of the country, it not being so entirely made 
 up of valleys as Oregon. The principal river is the Cowe- 
 litz, which is navigable a distance of only thirty miles; 
 its valley being narrow and rich, but of very limited ex- 
 tent. Like Oregon, it is divided by the Cascade range of 
 mountains, with the same relative differ*euces of soil and 
 climate on the east and west sides. Ut like Oregon, how- 
 ever, it is not so entirely separated from the sea by the 
 Coast range of mountains, which in Washington are very 
 much broken. The terminating point of the Coast Moun- 
 tains is Mount Olympus, which rises to a height of nine 
 thousand feet, standing forth as a glorious land-mark, vis- 
 ible from the sea ; and being closely in view either from 
 the Straits of Fuca, or Puget's Sound. ..,^;,_ 
 ■-' The richest agricultural portions of Washington are the 
 small valleys of its numerous streams, all of which are 
 well wooded with cotton-wood, maple, oak, ash, fir, cedar, 
 willow, and alder. The best grain fields of Washington 
 
THE STRAIT OF SAN JUAN DE FUCA'. 
 
 555 
 
 are contained in a tract of land called the Cowclitz Prai- 
 rie, commencing about thirty miles north of the Colum- 
 bia River, and extending only a few miles toward the 
 Sound. Strictly speaking, Washington is not an agricul- 
 tural country ; its peculiar geography pointing it out 
 ratlur as a commercial than a farming State. A glance 
 at any good map will show the reader at once what is the 
 evident future of Washington Territory. Considering the 
 importance of the inland waters of this Territory, it Avill 
 be quite apropos of the subject of a Northern Railroad to 
 give a somewhat detailed description of them, taken from 
 the reports of both English and American explorers. 
 From the Pacific Railroad Report of the late Governor 
 I. I. Stevens, we take the following account of the Strait 
 of San- Juan De Fuca : 
 
 " The Strait of Juan De Fitca is the moat remarkable inlet of the -whole 
 I'iKilic coast of the Ameriean continent. It is bounded on the north by the 
 SDiitlicrn shore of Vancouver's Island and other smaller islands, and on the 
 south by the northern shore of tlie Mount Olympus peninsula. On the east it 
 is terminated to a certain extent by the western shore of "Whidby's Island. Its 
 {.'iiuTal direction is from east to west, and its lenfjth is about eighty nautical 
 mile?. The north and south shores of this Stra't are parallel as far as the 
 foutlioni end of Vancouver's Island, or to about the middle of its len2;th. Up 
 to this point the Strait has a general width of about eleven nautical miles. 
 Friim Race Rocks on the north and Freshwater Bay on the south, exactly the 
 iiiiildlp point of the whole extent, the Strait widens about twenty nautical miles, 
 ami iil'tcrwards presents more the aspect of a broad interior basin. It is no 
 ioiiyjer bounded by straight parallel shores, but branches into several broad pas- 
 sagos, bays, and channels. De Fuca Strait is very deep throuiihout its wliole 
 I'Xtcnt. In mid-channel its average depth is one hundred fathoms, and this 
 (I'pth is carried near the shore on both sides. It commences shoaling at a distance 
 of two miles from shore ; and in all the channels and branches of this Strait 
 tliu depth is equally groat. There are no imj)ediments to navigation through- 
 out the whole extent of this Strait, A deep sea bank is found at the entrance, 
 which is a favorite fishing bank for the Indians in this vicinity." " The south- 
 ern shores of De Fuca Strait are hills, in the immediate neighborhood of the 
 water, of a moderate height. Many low sandy cliffs fall perpendicularly on 
 bi'aehes of sand and stone. From the top of the clifTy eminences the land 
 takes a further gentle and moderate ascent, and is entirely covered with trees, 
 
 I r ! 
 
^I9f 
 
 ' t" !' ' 
 
 i. -i 
 
 6r)G 
 
 WAHIIINUTON TEIUUTOWV. 
 
 eliLi'dy dC till! i)iiin ijcnus, until tlu^ forest rcaclios a i.iii^oof liijrh rra^;:v moun- 
 tains, which siH'ni to rise from the. woodland country in a very al^runt m;m\vr 
 with tluiir Hinnniits covcrud with snow. 'J'lic northern shore is not (luituso 
 hi^h. It risers more f^railiially from the sea-side to the tops of the numntains of 
 A'aneonvcr's Islaml, which jiives to tlieni the appearance oi' a e(ini])act run'o 
 inon- nnit()rm and much h'ss eovi'red with snow than those on the soutliern 
 »<i<li\"* 'l"he eminenci'S with which the whole coast is lined have ncariv all 
 more, or loss, the sann; I'orm. They l()rm little peninsulas, which all ]X)int lo 
 the northwest. The northeastern sides of these peninsulas are lonij;, the north- 
 western short, and lii^twii-n the two nei;^hboring points usually lies a little Iwv, 
 tlie shores of which are low and sandy." ;• 
 
 
 Piissing over the careful accounts of the several ports 
 along the strait, intended for the benefit of sea-going read- 
 ers, we come to Port Discovery, at the entrance to Ad- 
 miralty Inlet, the northern portion of what is now called 
 in a general way The Sound, ,- ,., 
 
 " This bay is about six miles long from north to south, and throu};hout two to 
 two and a lialf miles wide from cast to west. It is very deep, and has regular 
 Foundinf^s from thirty to thirty-five fathoms in mid-channel, to ten fathoms I'lnse 
 to shore. In some jjlaci'S it is almost t(M) deep for an anchoring piiice. Tlie 
 entrance of this port is formed by two low ))rojeciing jwints, Challam Point, to 
 the west, and Cape George to the east. Wooded cliffs of a middling lu'ight 
 bound th(! coast of the interior basin. It is protected from all winds, and 
 especially those of tlie north, by a little Island, called Protection Island, which 
 is two miles from its entrance and covers it. " Had this insular production of 
 nature," says Vancouver, " been designed by the most able engineers, it could 
 not have been placed more liapi)ily for the protection of the port." 
 
 -•,'•'--1.11-, '■ ) - . : >-i\ i^Ji : 
 
 From all this it is evident that this bay forms one of 
 the safest and best harbors in the world. It is also very 
 easy to fortify it against the attempts of an enemy. 
 
 " Admiralty Inlet is a most curious, irregular, and complicated compound 
 of inlets, channels, and bay ■, which lead to a narrow entrance from the snutli- 
 (Msti^rn corner of De Fuca Strait. The principal body of these waters, takin.; 
 the whole as one mcass, runs in a directly north and south line through more 
 than a whole degree of latitude ; but branches run out from it in all points of 
 the compass, and fill a region seventy nautical miles in length from north to 
 sotith and thirty miles in breadth from east to west. It may be compared to a 
 
 ♦Vancouver. 
 
:i'. 
 
 PUQET BOUND. 
 
 557 
 
 lire, iif wliith the body is rcco;Tniziiblo, which iscall«>fl A<lmiralty Tiilct pnipor, 
 ami till' siiii' iiraiK'licH have tlicir ])iirticiilar names. All tlic water eliaiinelH of 
 wliicli Admiralty Inlet is composetl are eomparatively narrow and liin<,'. They 
 liavc all. more or lesH l)()ld .sliores, anil are liiron;_'li(iiit dee|) and ahriipt, so ninch 
 .<ii tliMt ill many places a Hliip's sido will strike tlic sliorc belbre. the keel will 
 tmich the i^'round."* 
 
 ' » 
 
 t ,. 
 
 .»..;,. 
 
 Even ill tlio interior and most hidden parts, doptlis of 
 fifty iiiid a hundred fathoms occur, as broad as l)e Fueti 
 Stniit itself. Vancouver found sixty fathoms lusar the 
 Viishoii Ishmd within a cable's length of the shore, and 
 ill Pcs-^ession Sound he found no soundings with a line of 
 one hundred and ten fathoms. Our mochn-n more exten- 
 sive soundings prove that this depth diminishes towards 
 the extremities of the inlets and basin.s. A high tide goes 
 lip fi'oiii l)e Fuca Strait into all these sounds. Even at 
 Nis([ually, the most southern part of the Admiralty Inlet, 
 the spring tides are eighteen feet high and the neaps 
 twelvo. ., . 
 
 • :, , ,-■,,; ^: . ■ , , ' ' ,.. ' '■ ' ■"- ..;■■' ' 
 
 " Nothing can exceed the beauty and safety of these watcrH for navij;ation. 
 Nut a shoal exist.s witliin tlieni ; not a liidden roe', .» sudden overfalls of tlie 
 water or tlie air ; no strong (lows of the wind as in other narrow waters ; lor 
 iiistaiice, as in those of Magellan's Strait. And there are in this region so many 
 cxcillent and secure ports, that the commercial marine of the Pacific Ocean 
 may lie easily acconuuodated. 
 
 " 'I'he country into which these waters enter, and of wliieh t\wy fill the lowest 
 and central parts, may be .said to be a broad valley between the Mount Olyni- 
 ])iis raii'^e to the west and the Cascade range to the east ; the higli, snow-cov- 
 ered peaks of both ranges may be seen fi-oin the wati!rs everywhere. Tliey 
 stand at a distance of about a hundred nautical miles from each other. The 
 hrii.id valley between the.in is, upon tlie whole, of a moderate elevation, and 
 ])n'siiits a j)retty level depression. The higher spurs of the two mountain ran- 
 dies do not come down to the water's edge. The shore lands in the immedi- 
 ate neighliorhood of the channels may, therefore, be called only hills. They 
 are partly handsomely wooded, partly covered with luxuriant grass." 
 
 Puget Sound proper, is that portion of this large inland 
 body of water which extends south of Vashon Island, and 
 
 • Wilkes. 
 
558 
 
 WASIIIN(iT()N TKliUlTOUV. 
 
 I -'4 
 
 fij 
 
 is ii conipontul of uiatiy narrow iiilot3 and sounds like Ad- 
 miralty Ink't, and dillbrH I'runi it in no particular except 
 in extent. 
 
 ILxxPs Canal is the -westernmost arm of this jfroat am] 
 compli{;atcd sound, the lart^^vst portion of wiiicli is CiiUcu 
 on tliu nia[)s Admiralty Iidot, but which the people of the 
 west coast liavo named without distinction of buuiidaries 
 Prr,F:T Sound. 
 
 When it is remembered that the many arms of the 
 Round are surrounded with the most valuable timber for 
 Khip-buildin<^, as well as with many beautiful shrubs and 
 smaller growths of trees, the beauty and the wealth of 
 this favored region may be faintly imagined. On a bright 
 suunucr's day, when the grand snow-peaks of the Cascade 
 range and of Mount Olympus stand distinctly out to view, 
 a scene is furnished which probably is not surpassed by 
 any in the world — certainly not by any on the American 
 Continent. 
 
 The advantages of Puget Sound, as the great Naval 
 Depot of the Pacific coast, cannot be over-rated. Here 
 is the ample room and the safe anchorage ; here the tim- 
 ber, the turpentine, tar, rosin, iron, copper, cordage, and 
 a climate favorable to constant labor in the open air. It 
 is impossible to doubt that the United States Government 
 will avail itself of this magnificent gift of nature, or to 
 believe that it will be blind to the necessity of Ptailroad 
 communication between it and the great commercid 
 marts of the cast. , . • 
 
 Lumbering Interests. We have already said that agri- 
 culture was not the great business of Washington Terri- 
 tory. Its greatest commercial interest at present is the 
 lumber trade. The largest mills of the Pacific coast are 
 located along the shores of Puget Sound. The plain 
 lying north of the Cowelitz Valley and east of the Sound 
 is mostly of a gravelly soil, dotted with scattering timber, 
 

 Ll'MHER — COAL — PI81I. 
 
 559 
 
 ind (livorsificd with hikes and streams. It is a countiy 
 very boiiutifiil to the eye, and with proper care may be 
 iniulc to yiekl good returns to husbandry, thougli much 
 loss vahiablc than other portions. But in the innnediate 
 vicinity of the Sound the timber is very dense, and grows 
 to a maguificent size, often reaching a height of 250 or 
 ;](I0 feet. This belt of timber which encircles the Sound, 
 is from two to six miles in width, and consists chiefly of 
 fir and cedar — the most valuable timber on the coast. 
 Even the saw-dust of the cedar is valued, on account of 
 its odor, and is carried to San Francisco to be used in 
 saloons, market-places, etc. 
 
 The lumbering interests of Washington are controlled 
 by companies who own large tracts of timbered land along 
 the Sound, and at favorable points on the coast. Their 
 market is in San Francisco, the Sandwich Islands, Sitka, 
 and nearly all points on the Pacific coast south of Oregon. 
 Ooul. Another great source of wealth in Washington 
 Territory is the coal which it furnishes. Bellingham Bay 
 coal has long been used in San Francisco as the principal 
 fuel. Later, other mines have been discovered and open- 
 ed on the Cowelitz River, only four or six miles from its 
 junction with the Columbia. From tlicir extent and thick- 
 i.uss the Cowelitz beds are likely to rank high as an open- 
 ing for the investment of capital, 
 
 Fish. Of the rivers which empty into the Sound, are 
 the Skagit, Snohomish, Dwamish, Puyallup, Nisqually, and 
 Skokomish, with their tributaries. Many of these streams 
 are navigable at high tide by vessels drawing eight to ten 
 feet of water, making access o commercial waters easy 
 for the occupants of the laud along their course. There 
 are mud-flats of some extent at the mouths of the rivers, 
 and some patches ol salt-meadows. The river mouths 
 are chMice places for obtaining salmon, cod, and halibut ; 
 
560 
 
 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 
 
 salmon and herring are taken in the Sound, and trout in 
 the streams. 
 
 The Coast Counties. Of the counties along the coast 
 not much is known except that they have a rich soil, gen- 
 erally covered with a dense growth of timber. Many 
 small streams flow from the Coast Mountains into the Pa- 
 cific Ocean. ; 
 
 Gray's Harbor, in Chehalis county, together with tlio 
 fine valley of the Chehalis River, make this portion of the 
 coast a very desirable point for settlement. 
 
 Shoalwater Bay, in Pacific county, is an extensive body 
 of water, receiving the waters of numerous small streams, 
 among which the Willopah is the most considerable, hav- 
 ing a fine valley like the Chehalis. Both these bays have 
 extensive meadows and natural prairies contiguous, which 
 furnish excellent grass through the whole year. A fine 
 sand beach extends along the coast the whole distance 
 between these bays, making the pleasantest summer drives 
 imaginable. The entrance to Shoalwater Bay is five milv^s 
 wide, with two channels, each half a mile wide, leading 
 into it. The bay is filled with shoals, mud-fiats, and sand 
 pits, all of which are bare at low water ; while at high 
 water the tide sets up the rivers from eight to fifteen mile^ 
 This bay is the great oyster-bed of the Pacific Coast, and 
 vessels are regularly engaged in the oyster trade between 
 this point and San Francisco. Around the bay the coun- 
 try is heavily covered with fir, spruce, hemlock, and arbor 
 vitae. 
 
 From Shoalwater Bay down to Cape Hancock, called 
 on the maps Cape Disappointment, there extends another 
 smooth beach for a distance of twenty miles. This beach 
 is about one hundred yards wide, very even and hard, 
 backed by a range of low, sandy, and wooded hills ; and 
 the whole constitutes a narrow peninsula extending to the 
 
 
i, and trout iu 
 
 ffether witli tlio 
 
 WESTERN WASHINGTON. 
 
 561 
 
 mouth of the Columbia River. The extreme southern 
 point of this peninsula is Cape Hancock, where the Uni- 
 ted States has a fortification. 
 
 Resume. Westeyi Washington, so far as developed, 
 hos been proven to depend chiefly upon its lumber, fish, 
 coal and other minerals, for its commercial position. This 
 is not really on account of the sterility of the country, as 
 
 sa 
 
 MOUNT BANIER FROM PUGET SOUND. 
 
 has been shown, but is owing rather to the habits of the 
 [)cople, and because until lately there existed no market 
 for farm produce in the Territory. Now, however, it is 
 dilferent. Vancouver's Island right at their doors, depends 
 entirely upon Washington and Oregon for grain and veg- 
 vtabies, nor is the opportunity any longer lacking of send- 
 
562 
 
 WASHINGTON TERRITORY. 
 
 t^-'^- 
 
 
 i 
 
 1; 
 
 ;i 
 t 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 ing farm products to foreign markets, while the mines of 
 Eastern AYashington, like those of Oregon, make a con- 
 stant demand on the labor of the farmer. 
 
 Western Washington possesses at once the finest inland 
 harbors in the world, immense forests of valuable lumber, 
 mines of coal, and precious metals, extensive fisheries, a 
 healthful and mild climate, and is nearer by seven hundred 
 miles to the great East Indian marts of trade than any 
 other harbor of importance on the Pacific Coast. 
 
 The Puget Sound country must ultimately become a rich 
 and thickly inhabited region, and there will undoubtedly 
 grow up upon the Sound a great maritime city, where 
 ships from China and Japan will disembark their freight 
 upon the wharves of a Northern Pacific Railroad, to be 
 conveyed by the shortest land carriage to the great chain 
 of inland seas sti etching from Lake Superior, by the aid 
 of a ship-canal, to the Atlantic Ocean ; or scattered broad- 
 cast over the land along the hundreds of branch roads 
 that vein the eastern half of the continent in every direc- 
 tion. 
 
 Southern and Eastern Washington. That portion of 
 Washington Territory bordering upon the Columbia River 
 is not much settled. Farmers are, however, taking up the 
 land in the valleys of the rivers flowing into the Columbia 
 on the north side, quite rapidly of late. It is generally 
 observed that the land seems warmer on that side of the 
 river than on the Southern or Oregon side. The Cowelitz 
 y alley and the Lewis River and Lake River Valleys are 
 •now pretty well filled up, and prove to be excellent fruit, 
 grain, and dairy regions. Farther up the Columbia, and 
 just west of the foot-hills of the Cascades, is another well- 
 settled section of the Territory, where some handsome 
 prairies lie toward the Columbia River, bordered with rich 
 bottom lands. 
 
THE WALLA-WALLA VALLEY. 
 
 563 
 
 East of the Cascades the country is unsettled for a long 
 distance, except here and there a farm near the Columbia. 
 
 Walla- Walla. Not until we reach the Walla- Walla Val- 
 ley, do we find any active life and signs of cultivation. 
 But here, in the southeasternmost corner of the Territory, 
 is a valley of great beauty and fertility, rapidly becoming 
 populated. The productions of this valley are wheat, 
 outs, barley, corn, fruits, and vegetables. Wheat yields 
 thirty to sixty bushels to the acre, oats seventy-five, pota- 
 toes four to six hundred bushels, and other garden stuff 
 ill proportion. As a grazing country it cannot be excelled, 
 for the quality of either the grass or water. Besides the 
 streams, wells yield excellent cold water at a depth of 
 from twelve to fifteen feet. There is no valley in the 
 whole upper country superior to this in advantages offered 
 for settlement. The climate is dry and healthful, with 
 short winters, and long, warm summers. The chief objec- 
 tion to the climate is the high wind which prevails in 
 siiinmer, in common with all high, open countries. 
 
 ir'r 
 
 v.- ' ■ ' 
 • • • '• I" 
 
 / ■ 
 
 
 .'j:' 
 
 !'^''<'. 
 
 ■ ■ />. ■» •- V 
 
 '- .r-i'^i 
 
664 
 
 THE COLUMBIA lUVEli. 
 
 CHAPTER XLYII. 
 
 
 The Columbia River has no valley proper — that is, con- 
 tinuous levels of agricultural land, commonly known as 
 bottoms. From the junction of its two great forks to its 
 outlet, it flows between high bluffs, which rise into moun- 
 tains where the river breaks through the Cascade Range. 
 
 The mouth of the Columbia forms a large bay, twenty- 
 five miles long by six to eight wide, with numerous smaller 
 bays indenting it3 shores, and numerous points and prom- 
 ontories, the most conspicuous of which are Tongue 
 Point, four miles above Astoria, Point Adams, which bor- 
 ders on the ocean on the southern entrance, and Cape 
 Disappointment, (or Cape Hancock, as it is known to the 
 Government,) which borders on the northern entrance. 
 These two last named points are fortified. The following 
 mention of these fortifications is from the Astoria "Marine 
 Gazette : " 
 
 i I 
 
 " Fort Stevens is situated on Point Adams, on the Oregon side, in full view 
 of the ocean, and about one mile from the main channel of the river, and two 
 and a-half or three miles from the ocean. The guns of Fort Stevens will com- 
 mand the channel for several miles above and below the Fort. Next summer 
 a fort is to be built on Chinook Point immediately opposite Fort Stevens and 
 nearly due north of it. The river at this point is about three and a-half miles 
 wide, and is the narrowest point on the river within forty miles of the mouth. 
 Fort Hancock, on Cape Disappointment, is about seven miles northwest of 
 Fort Stevens, and about five and !^-half west by north of Chinook Point. Thus 
 the three forts will form a triangle, all commanding the entrance and the chan- 
 nels of the river. When all of these forts are completed, motmted and manned, 
 an enemy would meet with a warm reception, in case he would attempt to pay 
 us a hostile visit. 
 
Tmr 
 
 ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES. 
 
 565 
 
 ' •; ,;m.|:;i' 
 
 ■■■■ ■■'i.f 
 . . ■.,.-,i-.j., y,^ 
 
 — that is, con- 
 mly known as 
 :'eat forks to its 
 rise into moun- 
 ascade Range. 
 ;e bay, twenty- 
 imerous smaller 
 )ints and prom- 
 h are Tongue 
 ims, which hor- 
 mce, and Cape 
 is known to the 
 jiern entrance. 
 
 The following 
 Lstoria "Marine 
 
 n;on side, in full view 
 of the river, ani two 
 ort Stevens will com- 
 Fort. Next summer 
 te Fort Stevens and 
 hree and a-lialf miles 
 f miles of the mouth. 
 1 miles northwest of 
 Jhinook Toint. Thus 
 itrance and the chan- 
 notmted and manned, 
 would attempt to pay 
 
 Fort Stevens is a nonagon, surrounded by a deep ditch thirty feet wide and 
 nineteen hundred feet in length. Beyond the ditch is an outer earth-work, 
 slopinf^ gently back to the surface of the ground, to protect the perpendicular 
 wall of the main work inside of the ditch. From the top of this wall, I'.ie earth- 
 works of the main fort slope up to the top where the guns are mounted. An 
 exterior view of the fort exhibits nothing but an inclined plane of earth-works, 
 of so gentle a slope that shot or shell can do it no damage. The magazine in 
 the centre of the fort is a substantial structure, covered deeply with earth, and 
 is bomb-proof. The shell-houses are also bomb-proof, and are interspersed 
 along the line of guns at convenient distances. Tlie entire earth-works, includ- 
 ing magazine and shcli-houses, except the nice gravel walks through the fort, 
 are covered with sod of sparkling green, and are beautifully pictured upon the 
 broad surface of the deep ditch, as it stretches around the fort, between its 
 parallel walls and numerous angles. Fort Stevens will mount forty-three guns, 
 and some of them arc the largest size. Tlie great fifteen-inch pivot gun guards 
 the prominent front facing the approach from sea. Here the grim monster 
 stands sentry, bidding defiance to any foe that dares invade. Tliis is said to 
 be the most substantial and efficient fort on the Pacific Coast, and for beauty 
 and symmetry we doubt if it is surpassed by any simila- work in the United 
 States." .... . , ' •.. ., 
 
 There are two channels or entrances to the Columbia, 
 over the celebrated "bar." 't'- ^^ '► ^ .; .. 
 
 The north channel conducts past the light-house on 
 Cape Disappointment, and follows the shore-line of Baker's 
 Bay until abreast of Pacific City, then bears off to the 
 right some distance, where it intersects the south channel , 
 whi^h comes in by Point Adams. On the "middle sands" 
 between the north and south channels are lying the bones 
 of many a worthy vessel, and many a gallant sailor also, 
 whom deceitful winds lured on to the bar and suddenly 
 failing, left stranded by the ebbing tide, to go to destruc- 
 tion in the breakers. After the two channels unite in one, 
 tliat one bears to the south, coming right up to the town 
 of Astoria, where the Custom House is located, and where 
 the first cargo of goods delivered in Oregon was dis- 
 charged from the ship Tonquin, Capt. Thorn, from New 
 York, in the service of John Jacob Astor, in the year 
 1811. The genius of a great and successful merchant 
 
5GG 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 -■!'• 
 
 I i 
 
 touclied by a wonderful foresight upon the very spot 
 where a mighty People's commerce shall yet be disem- 
 barked. ,, 
 
 The dangers which once beset the entrance to the 
 Columbia have been overcome by steam. No steamer 
 was ever lost on the bar, and since a proper pilot system 
 has been established, but one or two vessels. The diffi- 
 culty should be effectually removed by the employment of 
 a steam-tug for sailing vessels. 
 
 The vessels which ply on the lower Columbia are the 
 tri-monthly line of ocean steamers from San Francisco, a 
 number of sailing vessels carrying lumber and produce to 
 the same port, a line of vessels 'o the Sandwich Islands, 
 a steamer connecting with the San Francisco line, taking 
 passengers and freight to Vancouver's Island, and a semi- 
 weekly steamer from Portland to Astoria. All vessels 
 entering the river stop at Astoria to receive their clear- 
 ances, and proceed to Portland, twelve miles up the mouth 
 of the Wallamet, and one hundred and ten from the ocean, 
 to discharge their cargoes. ; : , 
 
 Proceeding up the Columbia, the traveler sees little of 
 interest except the great river itself Like the Hudson, 
 its banks are high and mountainous, but unlike that river, 
 they are not yet dotted with towns, villages, and hamlets, 
 at every accessible point. A few beginnings have been 
 made, where a flouring mill or saw-mill have been estab- 
 lished, and whce a vessel comes to load with lumber or 
 floirr. Oak Point, Cathlamet, and Monticello at the mouth 
 of the Cowelitz, are such examples. A fgw farms also have 
 been begun where the small valleys of tributary streams 
 come down to the Columbia, St. Helen is the first town 
 which seems to promise a considerable future growth, and 
 that chiefly on account of its fine and favorable situation. 
 It has, however, ample resources, though undeveloped, 
 
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES. 
 
 567 
 
 and lias been talked of as the terminus of the Oregon 
 Central Railroad, where it should cross the river toward 
 Puget Sound by way of the Cowelitz Valley. There is a 
 sufficient depth of water at St. Helen to accommodate the 
 largest vessels. .'.'.-" > 
 
 Just above this point the Lower Wallamet falls into the 
 Columbia, the two rivers embracing a fertile island, called 
 Sauvies, about twenty miles in length, where some of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company's people formerly had farms, some 
 of which are still held by them. The Lower Wallamet 
 has a depth of water sufficient for the ocean steamers 
 which sometimes pass this way in going up. At the up- 
 per mouth of the Wallamet are a number of small and 
 beautiful islands, and the scene upon a fine summer after- 
 noon is scarcely exceeded anywhere. The wide, blue, 
 majestic Columbia receives the tributary waters of the 
 clear and sparkling Wallamet, which join its nobler flood 
 by several devious outlets among the islands, as if coy and 
 teazing, and reluctant to betray itself all at once for the 
 important adjunct that it is to its grander neighbor with 
 whom it is silently being united, to be recognized no more 
 in its individual character. With a fine sunset sky re- 
 flected in these waters, the lovely embowered islands, dot- 
 tino: them over, with the distant bluffs of the Wallamet in 
 view on one hand, and the snowy peaks of Hood and St. 
 Helen standing out grandly on the other, it makes a view 
 scarcely to be surpassed in mingled beauty and sublimity: 
 and must charm the eyes of a sea-weary emigrant with a 
 double charm. It is a very pleasant sail from this point 
 up to Portland on the Wallamet. 
 
 The Columbia above the mouth of the Wallamet grows 
 more interesting, and sustains its interest for over a hun- 
 dred miles. Vancouver on the Washington side, is the old 
 post of the Hudson's Bay Company, and the present head- 
 
568 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 quarters of the Military Department of Oregon. The 
 situation of Vancouver is charming, as is also the view of 
 the river and the mountains at this place. The Oregon 
 side of the Columbia for some distance is low and well 
 wooded, representing by its depression the valley of the 
 Wallamet. Soon, however, the rise of the foot-hills com- 
 mences, then the very mountains themselves, until when 
 you have arrived at the Cascades, you are in their very 
 heart — you actually stand in a gap where mighty moun- 
 tains have been parted. Before arriving at this point, the 
 Lower Cascades village, you have been almost sated with 
 magnificence, but when you leave the steamer and find 
 yourself standing pigmy-like in the midst of the giant 
 cliffs and peaks, nothing is left you but silent awe and 
 delight. . , 
 
 f 
 
 SHERIDAN S FI8UT BATTLE-GROUND, COLUMBIA RIVEU. 
 
 The "Cascades" are five miles of continuous rapids, 
 where the river forces itself over a rocky inclined hed^ 
 
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES. 
 
 569 
 
 Oregon. The 
 lO the view of 
 
 The Oregon 
 low and well 
 ! valley of the 
 foot-hills com- 
 es, until when 
 in their very 
 mighty moun- 
 this point, the 
 lost sated with 
 amer and find 
 
 of the giant 
 silent awe and 
 
 ;IA UIVKU. 
 
 itinuous rapids, 
 y inclined bed, 
 
 through the heart of the Cascade Range. These rapids 
 are passed by six miles of railway portage ; and this ride 
 affords such opportunities of wonderful sight-seeing as oc- 
 cnr but seldom to the traveler. There is not the wild 
 force to these rapids that you see when the Niagara rushes 
 to its fall ; but the variety of play of the water is infinitely 
 greater, and the accessories far more magnificent. At the 
 upper end of the Cascades is another little village, in a 
 most picturesque situation. The river sets back here be- 
 fore rushing through the narrow gorge of the rapids, and 
 forms a beautiful bay with an island or two in it, and 
 beautifully wooded shores. Just above this bay is a 
 sunken forest comprising a belt of timber a mile or two 
 
 CASTLE ROCK. 
 
 long and half a mile wide, nearly submerged by the wa- 
 ters of the river. Beyond, the first thing that strikes the 
 eye is an immensely high and bald perpendicular cliflf of 
 
570 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 : 
 
 red rock, pointed as a pyramid at the top, which h)oks as 
 if freshly split oil' or parted from some other mass of rock, 
 whieh other mass is nowhere visible. Here comes in the 
 Indian tradition of a bridge that once existed across the 
 Columbia at this place, and which subsequently fell in, 
 ])locking up the river bek)W and forming the rapids. It 
 looks probable enough to have suggested such an idea, 
 even to an Indian ; though the savage must attach a le- 
 gend of offended spirits to his more natural conclusion in 
 
 order to account for it. 
 The height and grandeur 
 of the mountains above 
 the Cascades is so great 
 and overpowering that 
 we feel no disposition to 
 attempt anything like a 
 description. It cannot 
 be described — it can on- 
 ly be felt ; and that news- 
 paper correspondent 
 who lately pronounced 
 the scenery of the Co- 
 lumbia River as insig- 
 nificant, takes rank in 
 our estimation beneath 
 contempt. The Hudson, 
 which so long has been 
 the pride of America, is 
 but the younger brother 
 of the majestic Colum- 
 bia. Place a hundi-ed 
 Dunderbergs side by 
 side, and you have some conception of these stupendous 
 bluffs. Treble the height of the Palisades, and you can 
 
 IIOKSE-TAIL FALL. 
 
 1 
 
 
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES. 
 
 671 
 
 « 
 form an itlca of these precipitous cliirs. Elevate the 
 
 dwarfed evergreens of the Hudson Highlands into firs and 
 pines like these, and then you may compare. We confess 
 that \\Q never enjoyed a journey more from the eomplete- 
 iioss of its impressions. There seemed nothing to desire — 
 wo only could gaze and dream ; for even these wild West- 
 ern waters are not without their historical and romantic 
 interest. Down this strong, rapid, high-walled river, fifty 
 years ago, floated the annual "brigade" of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company, bringing the year's accumulation of pel- 
 tries and the annual express from the Red River settle- 
 ments and Canada. Ten years earlier, Lewis and Clarke 
 had descended this great river in the service of the Gov- 
 
 $ 
 
 VIEW ON THE COLUMBIA. 
 
 ernment ; and a few years later a part of the Astor Expe- 
 dition suffered all but death passing these rugged moun- 
 tains in the winter. Only twenty years ago the yearly 
 innnigration to Oregon, arriving at the Dalles destitute 
 
 iij 
 
572 
 
 THE COLUMHIA RIVEU. 
 
 ;: 1 
 
 and sick, late in the soason, were dependent on the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company's boats to bring them down to the 
 settlements. It was a terrible passage, and many, both 
 of boatmen and immigrants, lost their lives in the fearful 
 rapids. These were the incidents of pioneer life, now 
 passed away ; while we, tourists at leisure, dream and 
 gaze from the deck of a first class steamer, with all our 
 wants anticipated. Twenty years more will work mar- 
 vels, but it is with feelings of satisfaction that we re- 
 flect it is not possible to man to intermeddle with the 
 eternal majesty of these mountains. As God made them 
 so they shall remain to be the wonder of all. 
 
 "Here," says our captain, "is Wind Mountain. The In- 
 dian name answers to our word enclmnted: probably be- 
 cause the Indians found it so dillicult to pass here when 
 the wind was foul." On the opposite, or Oregon side, 
 just where the foot-hills commence, is a fine fruit-farm, in 
 a delightful situation, with Mt. Hood showing just back 
 of it. About thirteen miles above the Cascades is one of 
 the finest if not quite the finest point on the river. 
 While the steamer lies at a wood-yard taking on fuel, we 
 have ti'T'o to observe that the view is closed on either side 
 of us by wooded promontories jutting past each other, 
 and that the mountains seem to have attained their hicrh- 
 est on either side of the river, thus enclosing us in a little 
 sea, girt round with lofty clifis of rugged rocks, or forest- 
 crowned mountain ridges. Not far from here Hood river 
 comes in, cold from the snows of the mighty mountain; 
 and the very best view of that mountain is to be obtained. 
 So near does it seem that we can see the glistening of the 
 snow where its cliffs reflect the sun. Nearly opposite, the 
 White Salmon enters the Columbia, and between the cleft 
 heights you catch a passing glimpse of Mount Adams. 
 
 On leaving the summit line of the mountains at the 
 
ITS 8CKXEUY, EXTKNT, AND UESOUIICES. 
 
 573 
 
 Cascades, the fir begins to disappear and soon the only 
 timber seen on the blull's, is i)inc aiul spruce. Even tliis 
 becomes scattering, and on coming near the Dulles, the 
 hills arc almost bare. The worn basaltic rock which has 
 
 MOUNT HOOD FROM THE UALLE8. 
 
 cropped out all along the river, from its mouth upward, is 
 here everywhere apparent, protruding from the hills and 
 walling in the river on both sides. But the hills are less 
 abrupt, and slope back in long swells and ridges, covered 
 with grass and dotted with scattering pines. » ■' 
 
 The Dalles (town) is a thriving business place, and a 
 point of importance on the Columbia; the possible ter- 
 minus of a branch Pacific Railroad. The scenery about 
 the Dalles has a most remarkable wildness and singularity. 
 You stand surrounded with evidences of the time when 
 the region of the Columbia river was one vast field of 
 molten rock and liquid fire. Once burnt by fire, long 
 since worn by the elements into horizontal terraces, or 
 
574 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 
 ■ ! 
 
 perpendicular columns, and needle-pointed peaks, scored 
 and seamed in every direction, cracked and toppling tc 
 their fail, the rocks which characterize the whole region 
 of-the Dalles make a very marked impression on the mind 
 and memory of the beholder. The word Dales signifies 
 troughs, and was first used by the French voyageurs to 
 describe the narrow passage through which the river is 
 forced at this place. It was easily corrupted into its pres- 
 ent agreeable pronunciation, and remains the cognomen, 
 not only of the trough of the Columbia, but has been cou- 
 ferred upon the town which lies just below the Dale. 
 
 The river narrows on approaching Dalles City, the be- 
 ginning of a second portage, of sixteen miles, and flows 
 through a sunken channel m solid rock for the whole of 
 that distance. The depth of the fissure which forms its 
 bed may be guessed at, when it is remembered that just 
 above these Dalles the river is over a mile wide, and that 
 in one part of its passage between Celilo and Dalles City, 
 it is not over one hundred and sixty feet ! The water has 
 a dark green color, and boils and bubbles like the witches' 
 cauldron in Macbeth. A glance at the map will suggest 
 what the tumult must be when a river, whose branches 
 stretch over so vast an extent of country, is compressed 
 within a channel fifty yards wide. Yet the writer has con- 
 versed with a lady who passed through this terrible strait 
 in a Hudson's Bay barge, when the oarsmen were thrown 
 from their seats by the violent dashing of the waves made 
 by the fearful eddies — j j.ssed in safety, too, though it was 
 a feat seldom attempted, thfe voyageurs preferring to make 
 the portage at thic place. 
 
 The geography of the country, and the rapid develop- 
 ment of the mining regions above, seem to point to Dalles 
 City as the second great commercial point on the Colum- 
 bia river. The town stands right on the rocky margin of 
 
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOURCES. 
 
 575 
 
 the river, and extends back over the gradual rise by ter- 
 races of the outcropping trap-rock. There is a thin soil 
 of black mold over the hills, picturesque groves of pines, 
 and a coating of fine grass. Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams 
 •iro in full view, and in the cloudless atmosphere of East- 
 ern Oregon, nearly always visible. A late slight eruption 
 of Mt. Hood, lasting for several hours, must have been 
 distinctly visible from this point. Some historical interest 
 attaches to the spot where Dalles City stands, from the 
 fact of its having been one of the early Missions, and one 
 of the earliest military ^-osts in Oregon. 
 
 A railroad portage conveys the passenger sixteen miles 
 to Celilo ; the greatt." portion of the distance being close 
 along the river, in sight of its rapids and eddies. There 
 are enormous drifts of sand, which the high v/inds keep 
 constantly shifting, and which cause much annoyan^^e both 
 to the company who are obliged to employ men to clear 
 the track, and to travelers who wish to see the country. 
 These drifts extend the whole length of the road. In fa :;^ 
 everywhere above the Dalles, sand and wind are thp ene- 
 mies of comfort during the summer months. 
 
 Celilo is a little new town, with no pretensions to bus- 
 ines3 except such as the 0. S. N. Company's transactions 
 there furnish. Its distinguishing feature is an immense 
 warehouse, nearly a thousand feet in length, built upon an 
 incline of forty feet, to accommodate boats in all stages 
 of water. This great warehouse is one of several that 
 will be built at points along the river, if the business of 
 the upper country increases as there is every reason to 
 believe it must increase. ., ; .;,> 
 
 The river at Celilo and for a long distance above is on^ 
 continuous expanse of foaming rapids. It hurries over 
 broken torturing rocks, lashing itself into the wildest ex- 
 citement, which the incline of its bed renders more im- 
 37 
 
 Mil ;■ 
 
 .i i 
 
 .\l II 
 
 i 
 
576 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 petuous. Such is the rapidity of its flow that the water 
 is apparently, and r j doubt actually, piled up higher in 
 the middle of the channel, so that it seems to slope ciff 
 on either side. 
 
 Just above Celilo comes in the Des Chutes Eiver, very 
 rapid and wid ^ at its mouth ; and a little further up on 
 the other side is the town of Columbus, which at present 
 is little more than a wood-yard. Tvvcnty miles above 
 Celilo, on the Oregon side again, j \\h \y River comes 
 by a narrow high-walled mouth whica g* arcely betrays its 
 locality. A few wood-yards and the Grande Ronde Land- 
 ing are the only improvements along the river, until ive 
 arrive at Umatilla, ninetv-six miles above the Dalles. 
 Along this whole distance not a single tree is visible, ex- 
 cept such willows and shrubs as grow on the borders of 
 sand-bars and islands. Umatilla, or Utilla, as the Indian 
 name is spelled, is a new and still very small town at the 
 mouth of the Umatilla river, and derives its business from 
 the fact of its being a starting point for the mines of Boise 
 and Owyhee. The banks of the Columbia h it «,re 1ot7 
 and smooth, and nothing is in sight fron; i „ ,k 'luer's 
 deck but extensive rolling plains, covered. vvn.! ju ■■•h- 
 grass. Back ten or twelve .liles from the river, ho,',v..er, 
 some timber is found for fuel, and Turther back in the 
 mountains is timber in abundance for lumbering purposes. 
 
 There is the same general aspect all along the Columbia 
 to its forks, and also for the wh^i'^ length of its southern 
 branch, the Snake or Lewis . , Walbi^a, situated a 
 
 few miles below the forks, is the last tow - Tany impor- 
 tance on the Columbia. It is beautifull}? '•■ :t/daGthe 
 mouth of the Walla-Walla river, nnd is a point of consid- 
 erable 'mportanc(^. where mii'iri'? outfits are procured, and 
 freight trains started out fo/ 'e mines. It is a sort of 
 port to Walla- Walla, thirty miLs further on the road to 
 
 1 I 
 J. I , 
 
 y.;'Aw^:, 
 
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT, AND RESOUKCES. 
 
 577 
 
 Idaho. Wallula is old Fort Walla- Walla, while Walla- 
 Wiilla City is near the old Presbyterian mission of Waii- 
 latpu, and the modern Fort Walla-Walla. 
 
 " White Bluffs is situated about forty miles above the mouth of Snake river. 
 From Wallula to White Bluffs the rivjr is smooth and deep, ofi'ering no ob- 
 ?tni(tious whatever to navii;ation. From this last named point the river can- 
 not be navigated furtlier until we reach Colville. Between these two j)laces it 
 makes a long detour, so that, following its course, the distance irom one point 
 to the other is about 350 miles. The stream is so broken by rapids the whole 
 wav that boats cannot run upon it. The bars along the river have long been 
 worked, yielaing small pay ; but they are now almost abandoned by the whites, 
 who are looking for richer mines, and in their stead are come great nimibers 
 of Chinese ; some from Oregon, but the greater number from British Colum- 
 bia. It is believed that there are now above one thousand of these persons 
 working on the river between Priest's Rapids and Colville. They are said to 
 be making from two to five or six dollars per f'ay. 
 
 From White Bluffs to ColviUe by land, th' distance is one hundred and fifly 
 miles. The road is excellent, there being no mountains or lulls, and but one 
 considerable stream — the Spokane — on the way. White Bluffs is the nearest 
 point to Colville which steamboats can reach, and is nov a post of some im- 
 portance. It seems to be favorably situated to receive a large share of the 
 trade of the upper Columbia river. 
 
 Above Colville, for several hundred miles, the river flows through a succer- 
 sion of lakes, rendering navigation easy. A steamer is now running between 
 Colville and Boat Encampment. Rich mines are said to have been discovered, 
 near this latter place, which is about three hundred miles beyond Colville. 
 About fifty miles above Colville the Hudson's Bay Company have established 
 a new trading post which they call Fort Shej)herd, by means of which thej 
 expect to command Jie tride of that region. There has been much activity in 
 the search for gold throughout thi^ whole region, and its trade steadily in-- 
 creases. 
 
 There hfvS also been strong effort to make a road over from the waters of Fra- 
 per river to the Cwiambia, but the attempt has resulted in nothing. Between 
 tliese two streams there is an exceedingly high chain of mountains over which 
 it will b*5 forever impossible to carry goods. Hence everything that is con- 
 sumed east of these high mountains must go by way of the Columbia." 
 
 On all the other northern branches of the Columbia, 
 the Kootenai, and head-waters of the Clark especially, 
 gold has been discovered in paying quantities, causing a 
 rush of miners to those districts, and the consequent ac- 
 companiment of trade. Already there is competition 
 
'78 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 [ "f's 
 
 ^ 
 
 between the merchants of the Missouri and those of the 
 Columbia as to the profits of trade in the Blackfoot coun- 
 try. Captain Mullan, in his "Miner's and Traveler's 
 Guide," has given so favorable an account of the climate 
 and agricultural resources of this northern region that 
 there is good reason to believe it must soon be settled up 
 by a permanent farming community. The numerous 
 Catholic Missions established through this region confirm 
 the account of its adaptability to settlement, while it is a 
 well established fact that the Hudson's Bay Company's 
 servants have had farms for twenty -five years in this lati- 
 tude, and have raised the same crops raised in our north- 
 western States. The yield of wheat was especially good, 
 averaging forty bushels to the acre. 
 . From these facts it will be seen that the Columbia does 
 not rise in a barren, desolate region of country ; and that 
 instead, the mighty river flows from first to last through 
 a country rich in mineral and agricultural wealth, only 
 waiting for development. 
 
 The Snake, or Southern branch of the Columbia, offers 
 no obstacle to continuous navigation by the Oregon Steam 
 Navigation Company's boats, which line of steamers 
 run regularly, except in low water, from Portland to 
 licwiston, Idaho, a distance of about four hundred miles. 
 Beyond this point navigation is interrupted for the next 
 one hundred ivnd forty miles, by falls and rapids. Beyond 
 this, however, it is believed there exists no obstacle to 
 navigation for another two hundred miles ; and the Ore- 
 gon Steam Navigation Company have already made roads 
 to, and built steamers on this portion of the Snake river, 
 with the intention of carrying passengers and freight on 
 this route as far as the crossing of the Boise and Owyhee 
 wagon-road. It is expected to bring the boats of the 
 Missouri and Columbia within five hundred miles of each 
 
ITS SCENERY, EXTENT AND RESOURCES. 
 
 579 
 
 other. Under these circumstances there must be a lively 
 competition for the trade of the great interior mining ter- 
 ritories — a competition which will do much, with that of 
 California and the Colorado river projects, to open up and 
 develop the country, and to hasten on the advent in these 
 mountain regions of the iron horse and the great Pacilic 
 Railways. 
 
 Very much of the development of Eastern Oregon and 
 Idaho is owing to the avcU conducted enterprises of the 
 Oregon Steam Navigation Company ; and it is only proper 
 in speaking of the resources of the Columbia to make the 
 following extract from the letter of an Oregon gentleman 
 and pioneer : 
 
 " Some dozen or more years a<jo different steamboat projects commenced 
 upon the Columbia. Then there were no mines ibund, and the inducement 
 was to caiTy the freight oi' the United States Government to military posts and 
 Indian Agencies, in the interior; transport the overland emigrations, and have 
 a natural increase of travel with the expected growth of the upper country. 
 Gradually steamboats of primitive make and small dimensions were built on 
 the navigable stretches of the river to conntict with the portages, of which there 
 arc two — the first a the Ciiscades, seventy miles from Portland, of five miles; 
 and another, at the Dalles, forty-five miles above, of fifteen miles. The dis- 
 covery of gold far north, at Fraser river and Powderway, gave some of these 
 steamboat and railroad men a confidence that the mountains east were all gold- 
 bearing. On the strength of which rude tramways or railroads were made at 
 great expense around the Cascades on either side of the Columbia river, and 
 indebtedness and expense incurred that would inevitably have ruined the men 
 who undertook them, only that time justified their belief, and the result made 
 them rich, for which they have to thank no one but themselves. Some eight 
 or ten years ago, ah these steamboat interests were consolidated under the pres- 
 ent company. As the business increased, the improvements of the company 
 kept pace with it, and to-day elegant boats are running on each stretch of the 
 river, connected by twenty miles of excellent railroads, one of six miles at the 
 Cascades, and one of fourteen miles at the Dalles. The Oregon Steam Navi- 
 gation Company, whose original capital was some S300,%00 (or at least the 
 dill'erent steamboat lines which were consolidated were assessed at that figure,) 
 now own, by purchase, the railroE.d lines on each side of the Cascades, which 
 gives them an effective monopoly, and have property valued at not less than 
 $2,000,000. Tliey have made but few dividends, never more than twelve per 
 cent, per annum, but have constantly kept adding their earnings to their cap- 
 
 i 
 
580 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 ■I 
 
 '■ 
 
 ital in the way of improvements, until their enterprise has made the difficult 
 eliaunel of tlie Columbia one of the most varied and agreeable lines of travel 
 upon this continent, llicir wliarves, warehouses, railroads, and steamers are 
 maf^nificcnt proofs of generous enterprise, and their honorable pride is to ex- 
 tend and improve them constantly in the future. 
 
 Thirteen years iigo this spring I ascended tlie Columbia to the Dalles in row- 
 boats against the current. It took us seventeen days of hard labor to make 
 the up trip. Now it takes us ten to twelve hours to accomplish the same dis- 
 tance in comfort and sal'ety." 
 
 The scenery of the Snake River resembles that of the 
 main Columbia above the Dalles, except that it is upon a 
 smaller scale. Like the Upper Columbia, it is distinguish- 
 ed for its falls and rapids. The American Falls furnishes 
 one of the finest views of the wonderful forms of col- 
 umnar basalt to be found anywhere. The river here flows 
 between high picturesque bluffs of weather-worn trap 
 rock, and falls over a ledge of the same; the fall being 
 divided by a rocky island in the middle, around which the 
 water sweeps in wild haste and is dashed to foam as it de- 
 scends upon other rocks below, rising again in clouds of 
 spray from the bosom of the tortured river. 
 
 The Owyhee, the Boise, the Payette, the Salmon, and 
 the Clearwater, are all more or less important tributaries 
 of the southern branch of the Columbia ; flowing as they 
 do through the richest mineral districts, watering fertile 
 valleys, or affording water and water power to the miner. 
 High divides generally separate the several water-courses, 
 which mountains are covered with excellent timber. The 
 early emigrant to Oregon who traversed the weary road 
 from the Mississippi to the Lower Columbia, thought all 
 a desert that laid between the Rocky and Cascade ranges 
 of mountains^ The aspect of this intermediate territory 
 will henceforth rapidly be changed. No more weary 
 marches over alkali deserts, sage or sand plains; no more 
 toiling over the Blue and Cascade Mountains. No more 
 
"■..".'.V '.Tirrr,'-'.'^'!-; 
 
 THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 681 
 
 starvation and misery on the last end of the journey. 
 ]5oats will meet the emigration somewhere about the Big 
 Camas Prairie at all events before it enters upon the rouo-h- 
 est portion of the route, and thence the transit to the 
 \\'allamet Valley, or to any other point of settlement will 
 be made easy. 
 
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582 
 
 MONTANA TERRITORY. 
 
 
 CHAPTER XLVIII. ..^ 
 
 Gold was first discovered on the eastern side of the 
 Rocky Mountains, in the month of August, 1862, by a 
 party of miners who wintered on the head- waters of Jef- 
 ferson's Fork : since which time new discoveries have been 
 constantly made, and Montana seems in a fair way to grow 
 rapidly into a State. Towns are starting up in every part 
 of the Territory, whose growth will not be permanently 
 checked even by a failure of the mining interests of the 
 country. 
 
 All writers from Montana agree in pronouncing it to be 
 the most delightful mountain country they have ever 
 visited ; but as successful gold-hunters are not always to 
 be believed by those who have no interests in their favor- 
 ite region, we have thought best to ignore their opinions 
 entirely, and quote from authorities whose only business 
 in that country has been to explore it. In the Report of 
 Gov. Stevens, on the Pacific Railroad, we find the fol- 
 lowing: — 
 
 " If the voyageur traveling over this country, whatever route he taJces, be 
 asked what sort of a country it is, he will tell you, an excellent country for trav- 
 eling — wood, water, and grass everywhere. But the pine of the Spokane ex- 
 tends nearly to its mouth, and for some miles souH of the river. Tlie Spokane 
 ie. the name of the main stream to its junction w ith the Coeur d' Alcne river, 
 when its name is given to a smaller tributary coming from the north, the Coeiir 
 d' Alene being the main stream. One of the most beautiful features of the 
 Coeur d' Alene river and country is the Coeur d' Alcne lake, which is embo- 
 Bomed in the midst of gently sloping hills, covered with a dense forest growth ; 
 the irregularity of its formi and the changing aspect of the scenery about it, 
 makes it one of the most picturesque objects in the interior. Tlie Coeur d 
 
MONTANA TERRITORY. 
 
 583 
 
 Alcnc river itself has tributaries flowing from near the main divide of the Hiiier 
 Hoot, the most considerable of which is the St. Joseph's river, which lias a gen- 
 eral parallel direction with the Coeur d' Alene, and is about twenty miles south 
 oi' it. 
 
 •• The whole ^ alley of the Coeur d' Alenc and Spokane is well .adapted to 
 si^ttU'nient, abounding in timber for building and for fires, exceedingly well wa- 
 tt'ii'd, and the greater portion of the land arable. — North of the Great IMain, that 
 is Iroiu the Spokane to the 4f)tli parallel cast of the main Columbia, the country 
 ibr the most part is densely wo(Kled, although many valleys and oj)en places oc- 
 cur, some of them now occupied by settlers, and all presenting advantages ibr 
 settlement. Down Clarke's Fork itself there are open patches of considerable 
 size, and so on the k<joten.!i River. North of the Spokane is a large prairie, 
 known as the Coeur d' Alene prairie, through which the trail passes from Walla- 
 Walla to Lake Pend d' Oreille. This prairie contains some six hundred square 
 
 Illllt'S ^ ^ w ^ w W 
 
 " It is the country, there.forc, between these two great backbones of the Rocky 
 Jlountains which I now wish to describe, and especially will I first call atten- 
 tion to that beautiful region whose streams, flowing from the great semicircle of 
 the Rocky Moiuitains before referred to, pass through a delightful grazing and 
 aiable country, and find their confluence in the Bitter Boot River, opposite Hell- 
 Gate. 
 
 " From Big Hole Prairie, on the south, flows the Bitter Root River, which has 
 also a branch from the southwest, up which a trail is nmch used by Indians and 
 voyageurs passing to the Nez Perce country and Walla-Walla. The Bitter 
 Root valley, above Hell-Gate river, is about eighty miles long, and from three to 
 ten in width, having a direction north and south from the soiu'ces of the Bitter 
 Root river to its junction with the Hell-Gate. Besides the outlet above men- 
 tioned,* towards the Kooskooskia, which is the most diflleult, it has an excellent 
 wagon-n)ad communication at its head by the Big Hole Pass to Jefferson's Fork, 
 Fort Hall, and other points southward, as well as by the Hell-Gate routes to the 
 eastward. From its lower end, at the junction of the Hell-Gate, it is believed 
 the Bitter Root river is, or can be made, navigable for small steamers for long 
 distances, at least, thus affording an easy outlet to its products in the natural 
 direction. Hell-Gate (Pass) is the debauche of all the considerable streams 
 which flow into the Bitter Root, eighty-five miles below its source at the Big 
 Hole divide. Tlio distance from Hell-Gate to its junction with the Bitter Root 
 is fifteen miles. It must not be understood from the term Hell-Gate that here 
 is a narrow passage with perpendicular bluffs ; on the contrary it is a wide, 
 o])en, and easy pass, in no case being less than half a mile wide, and the banks 
 not subject to overflow. At Hell-Gate is the junction of two streams, the one 
 being the Hell-Gate river, and the other the Big Blackftrot river. Tlie Hell- 
 Gate itself drains the semicircle of the Rocky Mountains from parallel 45 ' 45' 
 to parallel 46 ' 30', a distance on the di^ ,de of eighty miles. The upper waters 
 
 * Omitted here. 
 
584 
 
 MONTANA TEUUITORY. 
 
 of this river rnnnoct with Wisdom Rivor, over a low and easy divide, across 
 whicli Lii'ut. Aliilliin witli liis party moved on Dec. 31, 18.53. 
 
 "Moviii|j; down tliis valli'y (itleen miles, we eomo to a most beautiful prairie 
 known as the J)eer Lod;;e, a great resort for <^ame, and a favorite restinj^ phico 
 for Indians — mild tlirotiifh tlie wintt^r, and aH'ordinijf incxliausUble ;^rass tho 
 year nmnd. Thi'i-e is a remarliable euriosity in lliis valley — the Koilinj; Snrini's 
 whieli have been described by Lieut. Miillan. This Deer Lodge Prairie is wa- 
 tiTed l)y many streams, tliose cominif frcm tlie cast, liaving tht'ir sources also in 
 the Rocky .^h)untain divide, and tliese cominif from the west in tlie low, rollin" 
 and open country intervening between the Ilell-Gate and IJitter Root riverr. 
 
 "The Little Rlackfoot, whicli has been referred to, is one of the most impor- 
 tant streams on the line of communication through this whole mountain region. 
 It has an open, well-grassed, and araV)le valley, with sweet cotton-wood on the 
 streams, and pine generally on the slopes of tho hills ; but tho forests are quite 
 open, and both on its northern and southern slopes there is much prairie coun- 
 try. 'J"he IJttle IMackfoot river furnishes two outk;ts to the country to the east 
 It was the southern one of these passes, connecting with the southern tributary 
 of the Prickly Pear creek, tliat Mr. Tinkham passed over in IH.'JS, and deter- 
 mined a ])r()file of the route. It was also passed over by Lieut. Mullan on his 
 trip from the Muscle Shell, in 1853, but the northern pass was first discovered 
 by Lieut. Mullan when he passed over it with a wagon from Fort Benton, in 
 IMarch, 18.04. There is anotlier tributary of the Little Rlackfbot flowing into 
 it below the point vhere Lieut. Mullan struck it with bis wagon, which may 
 furnish a good pass to the plains of the Missouri. Its advantages and characjter 
 were described to him by the Indians. 
 
 "Passing down the IIell-Gat« river, from the mouth of the Little Bl.ackfoot, 
 we come to several tributaries flowing from the south. Flint Creek, one of them, 
 is a large stream, uj) the valley of which there is a short route to the Bitter 
 Root valley, in a direction west-southwest from its junction with Ilell-Gate. 
 On tli(!se rivers are prairies as large as the Deer Lodge prairie, and the whole 
 country between the Deer Lodge Prairie due west to the Bitter Root valley 
 consists much more of prairie than of forest land. 
 
 "The Ilell-Gate river is thus seen to be one hundred and thirty miles long, 
 flowing for sixty miles through the broad and fertile Deer Lodge Prairie, which 
 • is estimated to contain eight hundred squiire miles of arable land. Tlicn taking 
 a direction more transverse to the mormtain, opens its valley, continues from 
 two to fiv(! miles wide, until its junction with the Big Elackfoot, at Ilell-Gate, 
 after which it widens out to unite with the valley of the Bitter Root. On this 
 part of it there are least one hundred and fifty sqtiarc miles of fine arable land, 
 and as much grazing prairie on the adjoining hills. #**♦♦• 
 
 Passing from the Hell-Gate to the Flathead River, we cross over this spur 
 by a low divide, going through the Coriacan defile, and coming upon the waters 
 of the .Tocko river. The height of this divide above the Hell-Gate is 560 feet, 
 and above the Flathead river, at the mouth of the Jocko, is 650 feet. From 
 this divide a view of surpassing beauty, looking northward, is presented to the 
 
MONTANA TEUUITORY. 
 
 585 
 
 easy divido, across 
 
 Iwliiilili r. IIo sooM l)efor(( him an oxtraonliiiiirily wcll-jjriissod, woll-walorud 
 ;uiil inviting; country. On the East aro the divides, clothed with pine, separat- 
 iiii; the Jocko and its tributaries from the streams runninjj; into the IJi"' hlaclc- 
 tljut, and into Flathead Laiic. To the Nortli the Fhitliead Laice, twenty-fivo 
 iiiik's hu'^ and six miles wide, is sjjrcad ojjcn l.>eturi! you with extensive ])rairie8 
 iH'yond, and on the West, sloj)ini^ hacic ti-oni the banks of the Flathead Kiver 
 a uiin;j;led prairie and forest country is seen. Here in a (compact body, is ono 
 of the most jjromising countries in tliis whole region, having at least 2 000 
 wiiiaiv miles of arable land. 
 
 Below tlie lake the Flathead River flows, following its windings some fifty 
 miles, to its junction with tlie Bitter Root, where the united streams assunm the 
 name of Clarke's Fork. In this distance it is 100 t« 200 yards wide, and so 
 due]) as to be fbrdablo with difTieulty at low water, its depth being three feet in 
 the shiJlowest places. Its current is rapid, and there is a fall of fifteen feet, 
 five miles below the Lake. About eigliteen miles below the lake it receives a 
 considerable stream from the northwest called Hot Spring Creek. In' 
 its valley, and around it, is also a largo extent of fine land. Nearly opposite, a 
 siiiiiil stream runs in from the East, and another from the same side ten ndles 
 l)cl(j\v, by which there are routes to the upper part of Big Blackfoot Valley. 
 Nunc of the branches of Clarke's Fork above the junction can be considered 
 n:ivij,'able, but the river itself, (Flathead,) with the exception of the rapids 
 and falls below the lake, whicli may be passed by a short canal, gives a naviga- 
 tion of at least seventy-fiv«! miles to the head of Flathead Lake. * » * • 
 
 About one hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of Clarke's Fork is the 
 IViid d'Oreille or Kalispelum Lake, which is a beautiful sheet of water about 
 forty-five miles in length, formed by the dilation of the river. Tlie river is 
 ."luggish and wide for some twenty-six miles below the lake, where rapids occur 
 iliiriiig low water. Steamboats could ascend from this point to a point nine 
 inilt's above the lake, or eighty tniles in all. At high water they could ascend 
 iiiucli farther. Between the Cabinet (twenty-five miles above the lake) and a 
 ]ioint seventy-five miles below the lake, (a total distance of one hundred and 
 forty miles,) the only obstacle which occurs is whe ■ '1' river is divided by 
 rocky islands, with a fall of six and a-half feet on ono side. The valley of 
 (liuke's Fork is generally wide, arable, and inviting settlement, though much 
 of it is wooded. «*###***** 
 
 From the divide of the Rocky Mountains to the divide of the Bitter Root 
 Jlountains there is an bitermediate resiion, over one-third of which is a cultiva- 
 hh area, and a large portion of it is prairie country, instead of a wooded or 
 mountain country. The following estimate gives in detail the areas of arable 
 Imd, so far as existing information enables it to be computed : In the region 
 watered by the Bitter Root River and its tributaries, not including Ilell-Gate, 
 the prairie region may be estimated at three thousand square miles ; in that 
 vtatercd by the Hell-Gate and its tributaries, including the whole country 
 south and west to the Bitter Root, but not including the Big Blackfoot, there 
 is a prairie region of two thousand five hundred square raileS ; in that watered 
 
 !' I 
 
58G 
 
 MONTANA TKRUITOIIY. 
 
 
 l>y till' ]V\'^ Bliickfoot and its tribiitaric'<<, the prairie rcp;ion is one thousand throe 
 htuidri'il siitian' miles. The country watered by the Flathead River, down to 
 its junction with the Bitter Itoot, and tlienee down Clarke's Fork to the Cabini't 
 has a iirairie rei^ion of two thousand five hundred H<[iiare miles. Tlu; country 
 watered by tlie Kootenai has two thousand s((uare miles of prairie. Thus we 
 have, in round numbers, eleven thousand three hundred mpiare miles of prairie 
 bind. The whole area of the mountain re^^ion, (fW)m the divide of the Itoeky 
 Mountains to the divide of the Bitter Hoot, and from 45 30' t<i tl) ) is about 
 thirty thousand sijuare miles, and it will be a small estimate to put the arable 
 land of the prairie and the forest at twelve thousand square miles. 'ITiug the 
 country in the Forks of the Flathead and Bitter lloot, stretching away east 
 above the Blackfoot Canon is mostly table-land, well watensd and arable, ami 
 on all these tril)utaries — the Bitter lloot, the Hell-Gate, the Big Blackfoot, the 
 Jocko, the IMaple River, the Hot Sjtring River, and the Lou-Lou Fork itself— 
 the timber-laud will be found umpiestionably bet' *han the prairie-land. It 
 will not be in the immediate bottom or valley c nver where farmers will 
 
 find their best locations, but on the smaller tril ., some few miles above 
 
 their junction with the main streams. Tlie traveler passing up these rivers, 
 and seeing a little tributary breaking out in the valley, will on going up it, in- 
 variably come to an open and beautiful country. The observer who has passed 
 through this country oflen, who has had with him intelligent men who have 
 lived in it long, who understands intercourse with the Indians, and knows how 
 to verify information which they give him, will be astonished at the conclusions 
 which he will reach in regard to tlie agricultural advantages of this country, 
 and it will not be many years before the progress of settlements will establish 
 its superiority as an agricultural region." 
 
 The prediction of the hite distinguished explorer is 
 about to be realized, more rapidly perhaps than he had 
 ever contemplated. Though owing its rapid settlement 
 to the discovery of mines of gold and silver, Montana 
 Territory is destined to retain a large proportion of its 
 adventurous population, and to invite permanent settlers 
 by the greatness of her varied resources, for besides the 
 precious metals, her valleys abound in the more common 
 and useful materials of marble, limestone, cinnabar, cop- 
 per, sandstone, lead, plumbago, iron, coal, and the best of 
 timber for lumbering purposes. Add to these a most 
 healthful and delightful climate, and the most agreeable 
 scenery, and there is nothing left to desire which should 
 constitute a happy home for thousands of hardy emigrants. 
 
MONTANA TEIIRITORY. 
 
 687 
 
 # 
 
 Rcmarha on the Climate of Montana. The first iiivol- 
 untiiry remark of those who liave never considered the 
 subject, is, that a railroad carried as far north as Montana 
 ^vould be almost certain to be annually obstructed by- 
 snows. A brief review of the facts, however, will speedily 
 convince the intelligent reader that of the two roads the 
 Northern and the Central, the former will not be in as 
 much danger from a snow blockade as the latter. In the 
 first place, the actual altitude of the Rocky Mountains is 
 not so great in the latitude of Montana as it is on the lino 
 of the Central road by about two thousand feet. Secondly, 
 Montana has a climate modified both by the warm winds 
 that blow from the hot plains of the southwest, and over 
 the boiling springs of a large tract of volcanic country to 
 the south of it, or rather in its southern part. And besides 
 all these modifying local circumstances the isothermal line 
 which crosses it, and has its course westwardly to Puget's 
 Sound, has a mean annual temperature of 50°, thus deter- 
 mining the question of climate. ., ^ ...... 
 
 Experience, however, is the one authority to which men 
 safely and confidently refer, and this is in favor of Montana. 
 If the reader has noted the fact so often mentioned in the 
 narrative portion of this book, that the hunters and trap- 
 pers of the Rocky Mountains seldom or never wintered 
 near the South Pass, but had their favorite wintering 
 grounds in the bend of the Yellowstone, or upon the bor- 
 ders of one of the affluents of the Missouri nearly directly 
 oast of the Pass talked of for the No 'thern Railroad, he 
 must at once have come to the conclusion that the climate 
 of this region is superior in mildness to thirt farther south. 
 It was here that the fur-hunters found grass and sweet cot- 
 ton-wood for their animals, and it was hei'e that game 
 resorted for food during the snows of winter in such 
 numbers as to fairly invade the camps of the companies. 
 
 t 
 
 ti 
 
•^^pmx^^a^jgw^: ■■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 588 
 
 MONTANA TERRITORY. 
 
 -U''iv:^'li.v 
 
 Resources of Montana. Besides the precious metals, 
 which have yielded since 1864 a sum of $80,000,000, 
 Montana contains also an abundance of copper, iron, coal, 
 salt, and other metals and minerals. Its lumbering re- 
 sources are about equal to those of Washington Territory, 
 and its farming resources probably are s\iperior. Nowhere 
 in the new Territories is there a better opening for regular 
 and legitimate labor, notwithstanding iiiQ reputation of 
 Montana is based principally upon its mines. 
 
 .»>;:■;> •■'^ 
 
 '. v.;., , -:->.:.^ 
 
 '■ «i < ,i,}i:i' r?:^' ^■"''' '' •■;><: ■;f-;.zrtJ!0 -tfF'/li^-'S^dJ I 
 
■•n^'my 
 
 GENERaiL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 589 
 
 precious metals, 
 of $80,000,000, 
 )pper, iron, coal, 
 s lumbering re- 
 ngton Territory, 
 erior. Nowhere 
 ming for regular 
 e reputation of 
 
 LOS. 
 
 .' •* ■ i' , -- 
 
 .; i' 'rt. 
 
 ,-.l'VJ- 
 
 Of £5! 
 
 h --.^ m st 
 
 CHAPTER XLIX. 
 
 Climate of the Pacific Coast The Western coasts of 
 all large bodies of land have a warmer temperature than 
 the Eastern. Latitude on the Pacific coast seems to have 
 but little influence on climate, compared to its effect on 
 the coast of the Atlantic. Astoria, at the mouth of the 
 Columbia river, has a mean temperature of 54°, while 
 Nisqually, on Puget Sound, being a degree further north, 
 but also a considerable distance inland from the ocean, has 
 a mean temperature of 58.5". Frost seldom penetrates 
 the ground anywhere near the coast, and it never snows at 
 Astoria, though snow sometimes falls in the northern por- 
 tion of the Olympic peninsula in Washington Territory. 
 The places named, be it remembered, are in the same lat- 
 itu'le with the Lake Superior region and the Sault St. 
 Marie of the Western States, and of the frozen coast of 
 Nfiw Brunswick. 
 
 As we proceed inland greater extremes of heat and 
 cold are experienced. At Portland, which is in latitude 
 if''^ 30', the mean summer temperature is 60.33°, although 
 there are occasional days, two or three together, when the 
 thormometej- stands at 110° in the shade durinc: three or 
 four hours of the afternoon, suddenly falling, at the ap- 
 proach of evening. The winters in the interior vary 
 greatly in degrees of cold. It is very raiely that the 
 ground is frozen, or that snow lies upon the ground ; yet 
 the " oldest inhabitants " remember one winter when the 
 
 V 
 
590 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 :.:l 
 
 thermometer fell to 15° beloAV zero in the Wallamet valley, 
 and to 20" below zero in the Umpqua valley, which is rather 
 more elevated. It is to elevation in fact that the great 
 differences of climate are due in this region. Sixty miles 
 away from Portland, in the Cascade Mountains, it is cold 
 and snowing heavily, when there is a warm rain at tliis 
 point. Snow also falls in the Coast Mountains, while on 
 either side of them there is perpetual verdure. 
 
 At the Dalles, very nearly east of Portland, but on the 
 other side of the Cascade Mountains, there is an entirely 
 different climate. From the superior elevation of the 
 country w^e might look for much more severe cold in win- 
 ter, and a cooler temperature in summer. But here anoth- 
 er modifying influence comes in — that of the warm air from 
 the great burning plains of California and the south. The 
 Cascade Mountains intercept the moisture from the ocean, 
 which is discharged in rain on the valleys cf Western Ore- 
 gon, while Eastern Oregon lies under a cloudless sky, and 
 is warmed by the heated air from the rainless country far- 
 ther to the south. This rarefied air rising, causes the set- 
 ting in of the strong current of air from the ocean which 
 gives to Western Oregon its steady prevailing winds; 
 these winds blowing from the northwest in summer, and 
 from ttie southwest in winter. Under these influences 
 while Western Oregon and Washington have a moist cli- 
 mate, Eastern Oregon and Idaho have a very dry climate. 
 The summers are hot and dry, frosts commence in October, 
 but the winter does not begin until quite late, and lasts 
 but a short time, with little rain and snow. Ten degrees 
 below zero is reckoned exceedingly cold on these plains. 
 Nearer to the mountain ranges to the cast, there is more 
 rain, and greater variability of climate, though it still con- 
 tinues mild. On the Clearwater, in Northern Idaho, three 
 years observations place the mean temperature at 53* ; 
 
EST COAST. 
 
 Wallamet valley, 
 y, which is rather 
 it that the great 
 ion. Sixty miles 
 untains, it is cold 
 iTarm rain at this 
 untains, while on 
 srdure. 
 
 •tland, but on the 
 re is an entirely 
 elevation of the 
 ivere cold in win- 
 But here anoth- 
 the warm air from 
 d the south. The 
 e from the ocean, 
 3 of Western Ore- 
 cloudless sky, and 
 nless country far- 
 g, causes the set- 
 the ocean which 
 )revailing winds; 
 t in summer, and 
 these influences 
 have a moist cli- 
 very dry climate, 
 lence in October, 
 te late, and lasts 
 w. Ten degrees 
 . on these plains. 
 ist, there is more 
 lough it still con- 
 lern Idaho, three 
 perature at 53' ; 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 591 
 
 and at Ft. Colville the mercury sometimes rises to 100° 
 ill summer, and falls to 12'^ in winter. This portion of the 
 country is subject to heavy frosts in Spring, which makes 
 the season of planting and harvesting shorter. 
 
 Captain Mullan accounts for the :jiild climate of the 
 Rocky Mountains in Montana by supposing that the infi- 
 nite number of hot-springs and geysers which exist at the 
 head- waters of the Columbia, Missouri, and Yellowstone 
 Rivers, must modify the climate of this elevated region. 
 He also says further : . ■• 
 
 '•llic meteorological statistics collected during a great number of years have 
 enabled us to trace an isocluincnal line across the continent, from St. Josej)h's, 
 Mi-ssouri, to the Pacific, and the direction taken by this line is wonderful and 
 worthy the most important attention in all future legislation that looks towards 
 till! travel and settlement of this country. Ihis line which leaves St. Joseph's 
 in latiuide 40", follows the general line of the Platte to F irt Laramie, where, 
 tinm newly introduced causes, it t-nds northwestwardly between the Wind 
 Rivur chain and the Black Hills, < 'lie summit of the Rocky Mountains in 
 
 lalitiide 47" ; showinsr that in the ii 
 
 • )m 
 
 Si 
 
 ph's it had 
 
 <\ 
 
 di','rcc3 of latitude. Tracing it still further we i ward it goes as high as 48", 
 and developes itself in a fan-like shape in the plain-j of the Cohnnbia. From 
 I'ort Laramie to the Clarke's Fork, I call this an atnK^ pheric river ui' heat, vary- 
 ing' in width from one to one hundred miles. On its either side, north anil -outh, 
 are walls of cold air, and wliicli are so clearly perceptible, that you .Jways 
 (li'tt'c't when you are upon its shores. 
 
 It would seem natural that the large volume of air in motion between the 
 Wind lliver chain and the Black Hills must receive a certain amount of heat as 
 it passes over the line of hot boiling springs here found, which, ail led to the 
 great heat evolved from the large volumes of water here existin;;. rh is con- 
 stantly cumulative, must all tend to modify its temperatui-e to i. , extent that 
 the thermometer detects. The prevalent direction of the winds, the physical 
 liiec of the country, its altitude, and the large volume of water, all, doubtless. 
 enter to create this modification ; but from whatsoever cause it arises, it exists 
 as a fact that must for all time enter as an element worthy of every attention 
 in lilies of travel and communication from the eastern plains to the north Pa- 
 cific. A comparison of the altitude of tlie South Pass, with the country on its 
 every side, with MuUan's Pass, further to the north, may be useful in this con- 
 neetion. The South Pass has an altitude of seven thousand four hundred and 
 eiijihty-nine feet above the level of the sea. The Wind River chain, to its 
 north, rises till it attains, at Fremont's Peak, an elevation of thirteen thousand 
 five hundred and seventy feet, while to the north the mountains increase in al- 
 
 38 
 
 \ m 
 
 i ; 
 
 ill! 
 
 
 '■:■ si 
 
 it 
 
 li- 
 lt 
 
 I' 
 
"TW. 
 
 592 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST CO^ , T. 
 
 titude till they attain, at Long's Peak, an elevation of fifteen thousand feef 
 while the plains to the east have an elevation of six thousand feet, and the 
 mountains to the west, forming the east rim of the great basin, have an elevation 
 of eight thousand two hundred and thirty-four feet, and the country between it 
 and the South Pass an elevation of six tliousand two hundred and thirty- 
 four feet above the level of the sea. Tlie highest point on the .oad in the 
 summit line at MuUan's Pass has an elevation of six thousand feet, which is 
 lower by fourt-^en hundred and eighty-nine feet than the South Pass, and allow- 
 ing what we find to be here the case, viz : two hundred and eighty leet of alti- 
 tude for each degree of temperature, we see that JluUan's Pass enjoys six de- 
 grees of milder temperature, due to this difi'erence of altitude alone. At the 
 South Pass are many high snow peaks, as Fremont's Peak, Three Ttjtons, 
 Laramie Peak, Long's Peak, and others, all of vhicdi must tend to modify the 
 temperature ; whereas, to the north we have no high snow peaks, but the 
 mountains have a general elevation of from seven to eigh^ thousand feet above 
 the level of the sea, and of most marked uniformity in point of altitude. 
 
 The high range of the Wind River chain stands as a curvilinear wall to 
 deflect and direct the currents of the atmosphere as they sweep across the con- 
 tinent. All their slopes are well located to reflect back the direct rays of the 
 heat of the sun to the valleys that lay at their bases. These valleys, already 
 warm by virtue of the hot springs existing among them, receive this acciimula- 
 ti »e heat, which, driven by the new currents of cold air (rom the plains, rises 
 and moves onward in the form of a river towards the valleys of the Rocky 
 Mountains, wliere it joins the milder current from tlie Pacific and diffuses ovtr 
 the whole region a mild, healthy, invigorating, and useful climate." 
 
 While the climate of the Valleys, Plains, and Mountains 
 is such as we have described, it is possible to find almost 
 every mudification of heat and cold, and moisture and 
 dryness, within these general limits, by seeking certain al- 
 titudes or depiessions more or less remote from the sea, 
 and having the aid of certain other influences. The vales 
 of Italy, or the glaciers of Switzerland are alike accessible. 
 ■ Beclamation of Dry Lands by Irrigation. In a recent 
 letter of Hon. J* hn Bidwell, of California, is the follow- 
 ing sensible proposition : , 
 
 " There arc millions of acres of dry .and appaiently sterile land to be fonrni 
 all over the Pacific slope. Is it always to rciiain in the present condition? 
 There exists no necessity that it should do so. Tlie land possesses in abun- 
 dance all the elements (jf fertility. There is one and but one remedy — irriga- 
 tion. Some have prejudices against irrigation, that must be overcome, because 
 
3ST COx T. 
 
 fifteen thousand feet; 
 housand feet, and the 
 )asin, have an elevation 
 the country between it 
 hundred and thirty- 
 oint on the .oad in the 
 thousand feet, which is 
 South Pass, and allow- 
 and eighty feet of alti- 
 in's Pass enjoys six de- 
 altitude alone. At the 
 s Peak, Three Tet«ns, 
 nust tend to modify the 
 li snow peaks, but the 
 <rhv thousand feet above 
 point of altitude, 
 as a curvilinear wall to 
 ey sweep across the con- 
 :k the direct rays of the 
 These valleys, already 
 n, receive this acciimula- 
 air li-oiu the plains, rises 
 lie valleys of the Rocky 
 Pacific and diffuses over 
 sful climate." 
 
 ins, and Mountains 
 ble to find almost 
 ind moisture and 
 seeking certain al- 
 ote from the sea, 
 hences. The vales 
 ■c alike accessible. 
 lion. In a recent 
 ■uia, is the follow- 
 
 sterile land to be found 
 the present condition? 
 land possesses in abun- 
 but one remedy— irriga- 
 lust be overcome, because 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 593 
 
 jt will rci ■'•'> the united efTortof all who have a property interest in the State, 
 to begin and carry on such an enterprise upon a scale worthy of the object in 
 view. Once acconipli.shed, lands that are now absolutely worthless would 
 liucoine most valuable. The same encouragement should, in my judjimont, be 
 [riven to bringing water on land that is worthless without it, as to take water 
 from land that is useless with it. The dry, as well as the sw.amp, lands require 
 reclamation— one will cost relatively as much as the other. Why, then, should 
 not the (Joveruinent be willing to donate the dry lauds to the State as well as 
 the fwamp lands ?" 
 
 to which the Alta California adds: ' • 
 
 " It is strictly true that there are millions of acres in California now lying 
 unclaimed, unproductive, unoccupied, and worthless, simply because of lack of 
 irrigiUlon, which might be supplied. If our State were as well jn-ovided with 
 ditches as Avas ancient Judca, Sjiain under the Arabs, or India <at the present 
 day, we should have thrice as much land fit for gardens as we actually have. 
 More dry land than swamp needs reclamation in Cal^''ornia. The waters of 
 winter and the snows of the Sierras, by careful management, might be made to 
 yield as much treasure as the auriferous sands of the Sacramento basin. Other 
 nations have reclainu'd tracts as large and as dry as the San Joaquin and Tulai'e 
 valleys, and why should we not do as much ?" 
 
 The same necessity will exist for irrigation in Eastern 
 Oregon and Idaho that exists in California at present, and 
 the means for irrigation are much more abundant, inas- 
 much as there are thousands of mountain streams of the 
 very best water which might be conveyed and converted 
 to purposes of irrigation. The climate of the West Coast 
 is in all respects very similar to that of ancient Judea, 
 Spain, and other countries where by irrigation the barren 
 plains were made gardens of beauty. The great aque- 
 ducts of the Romans, and even those of the Spaniards in 
 Mexico, still remain to testify to the importance and value 
 of irrigation in warm and dry countries. There will yet be 
 some wonderful engineering performed west of the Rocky 
 Mountains, proving that Moderns are nowise inferior in 
 energy or expedients to the Ancients. 
 
 Productiveness of the soil. There is no country which 
 will better repay the expense of irrigation than this. Al- 
 
594 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 I'U^ 
 
 most every square mile, not entirely naked rock, is rich 
 and productive to a wonderful degree. You have only to 
 cast seed and water upon the loose sand-hills about San 
 Francisco in California, to have them become beds of 
 bloom. Wherever water is given to the soil anywhere, 
 vegetation springs up. •■m 
 
 In Western Oregon, where there is plenty of moisture, 
 there is a perfectly wonderful amount of vegetation, from 
 gigantic trees to gigantic ferns ; and never has the farmer 
 failed of his harvest since the settlement of the country. 
 
 There is no doubt whatever but some method will be 
 found of neutralizing the effect of the too great propor- 
 tion of alkali in some parts of Eastern Oregon, by which 
 process great results in the way of grain and vegetables 
 may be expected. Those foot-hills of the mountains 
 where the light volcanic ash is found, ought to be put into 
 grape culture, as there is no better soil for the production 
 of that delicious fruit. There are marsh lands for meadows 
 and uplands for sheep-grazing ; in short, every reasonable 
 want of humanity may be supplied in this truly wonder- 
 ful region, which will become in time the glory and pride 
 of the great Republic of the United States. 
 
 Scenenj of the North- West Coast. Hardly can there be 
 in any one country in the world more of the elements of 
 the grand and wonderful than are to be found among the 
 mountains, and along the rivers of Oregon and the adja- 
 cent Territories. The massive size and extent of the 
 Rocky Mountains rather lessens the idea of their superior 
 height, but the steeper slopes of the Cascade Mountains, 
 rising as they do, on one side, from a valley, and made 
 more striking by the numbers of snowy peaks, covered 
 too with magnificent forests far up their rugged sides, all 
 enhances their appearance of grandeur. 
 
 But it is when they are explored and their solitary won- 
 
 V 
 
;ST COAST. 
 
 T 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 595 
 
 their solitary won- 
 
 ders brought to view that their real magnificence is under- 
 stood. Notwithstanding their narrow base, the Cascade 
 Mountains are not to be crossed by one dividing ridge, but 
 are formed of many ridges running in all directions, and 
 thrown together in extraordinary confusion, making awful 
 chasms which impede the progress of the explorer, and 
 presenting acclivities up which it is in vain to attempt to 
 proceed. Once upon their summits, however, and the 
 traveler's toil is repaid. "In one view he may embrace 
 the rugged steeps of the Green Mountains, the biue, 
 wooded slopes of the Alleghanies, and the ice-crowned 
 peaks of the Alps; the volcanic piles ol the Andes, the 
 broad plateaux of Brazil, the fertile prairies of the upper 
 Mississippi, and the lawns, groves and copses of the sunny 
 South. To the eastward he beholds an immense plateau, 
 or elevated plain, relieved at distant intervals by spurs 
 from the mountain chains, and sloping gently in different 
 directions, toward the various streams, which, wending 
 their way through mountain gorges to the ocean, or to 
 some silent lake, drain the eastern portion of the State. 
 To the west he surveys a country diversified by great rivers, 
 and small streamlets; by tall mountains, and deeply embo- 
 somed vale ; by gentle undulations, and precipitous, high- 
 walled canons; by dark, frow. ing forests of pine and fir, 
 spruce and cedar, which the eye fails to penetrate, and 
 natural gardens all carpeted over with luxuriant grasses, 
 redolent with the odors of wild flowers, and full of the 
 music of winged choristers." 
 
 Down the precipitous cliffs rush mountain torrents, leap- 
 ing from rock to rock, by their number giving to this 
 chain of mountains their characteristic name. And when 
 these mountain torrents have reached the level of the 
 plain below they scarcely lose their mountain peculiarities, 
 but go dashing and foaming over rocky beds, almost to 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 i;- 
 
596 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 their very mouths ; so much disturbed by rocks, and so 
 rapid that very few rivers having their source in the Cas- 
 cade Mountains can ever be made navigable. 
 
 Very many curious things are found on the summits of 
 the Rocky and Cascade Mountains ; wonderful lakes, moun- 
 tains of cinders, fresh as if just from the volcanic forge ; 
 sea-shells and corals. One of these wonderful mountain 
 lakes is thus described by a gentleman who visited it : 
 
 " Upon risinfj; the slope bounding tlie lake, the firft hnprcfision made upon 
 your mind is one of disai)pointnient ; it does not come up to your expectations; 
 but this is only momentary. A second look and you begin to comprehend the 
 majestic beauties of the scenery spread out before you, and you sit down on the 
 brink of the precipice, and feast your eyes on the awful grandeur; your thoughts 
 wander back thousands of years to the time when, where now is a placid sheet 
 of water, there was a lake of fire, throwing its cinders and ashes to a vast dis- 
 tance in every direction. The whole surroundings prove this lake to be the 
 crater of an extinct volcano. Tlie appearance of the water in the basin, as 
 seen from the top of the mountain, is that of a vast circular sheet of canvass, 
 upon which some painter had been exercising his art. Tlie color of the water 
 is blue, but in very many different shades, and like the colors in variegated silk, 
 continually changing. Now a spot will be dark blue, almost approaching black, 
 in the next moment it will change to a very pale blue ; and it is thus continu- 
 ally changing from one shade to another. I cannot account for this changeable- 
 ncss, as the sky was perfectly cleai", and it could not have been caused by any 
 shadows ; there was, however, a gentle breeze which caused a ri2)ple of the 
 waters ; this may account for it. 
 
 At first sight a person would not estimate the surface of the water to be more 
 than two or three hundred feet below the summit of the surrounding bluffs ; and 
 it is only atlcr a steady look, almost perpendicularly down into the water, that 
 you begin to comprehend the distance. In looking down into the lake the 
 vision seems to stop before reaching the bottom, and, to use a common expres- 
 sion, you have to look twice before you see the bottom. 
 
 Heretofore it has been thought by those who have visited the lake, that it 
 was impossible to get to the water, and this was also my impression at first 
 eight, and I should have been contented to remain on the summit, and view its 
 beauties from that point, without attempting to get to the water, but for Ser- 
 geant Stearns and ISIr. Ford, who, after gazing awhile from the top, disappeared 
 over the precipice, and in a few minutes were at the bottom, near the water's 
 edge, where no human being ever stood before. Their shouts induced Mr. 
 Coats and myself to attempt the feat, which is in fact only perilous in imagina- 
 tion. A spring of water bursts out of the mountain near the top, on the side 
 where we were, and by following down the channel which the water has made, 
 
• COAST. 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 m 
 
 rocks, and so 
 rcG in the Cas- 
 
 he summits of 
 'ill lakes, moun- 
 olcanic forge; 
 irful mountain 
 I visited it : 
 
 prossion made upon 
 
 your cx])C!ctations; 
 n to comprehend the 
 
 you sit down on the 
 idcur ; your thoughts 
 now is a placid sheet 
 
 1 ashes to a vast dis- 
 ' this lake to be the 
 rater in the basin, as 
 lar sheet of canvass, 
 he color of the water 
 )rs in variegated silk, 
 St approaching black, 
 nd it is thus continu- 
 t for this changeable- 
 1 been caused by any 
 lused a ripple of the 
 
 the water to be more 
 rounding bluffs ; and 
 n into the water, that 
 \vn into the lake the 
 ise a common expres- 
 
 itcd the lake, that it 
 ny impression at first 
 summit, and view its 
 c water, but for Ser- 
 
 the top, disappeared 
 tom, near the water's 
 
 shouts induced IVIr. 
 Y perilous in imagina- 
 ir the top, on the side 
 
 the water has made, 
 
 a good footing may be established all the way down. In all probability, this Is 
 llic only place in tlie whole circumference of the lake where the water is accessi- 
 ble, although Sergeant Stearns clambered around tlie edge of the lake for a short 
 distance, and ascended to the summit by a did'erent route from the one we 
 (lescended ; yet he does not thiidc he could go down where he came up. The 
 water in the lake is clear as crystal, and about the same temperature with tlie 
 well water in llogue River valley. We saw no fish of any kind, nor evi'u 
 insects in the water ; the only thing we saw that indicated that there are fish 
 in the lake was a kingfisher. In ascending, I measured the distance as well as 
 I could, from point to point, by the eye, and conclude that it is from seven to 
 eight liundred feet perpendicular from the water to the summit of the blulV. 
 'flic lake seems to be very nearly circular, and is from seven to eight miles in 
 diameter ; and except at two or three points, the bluff is about the same altitude. 
 Near the western shore of the lake is an island, about one-half mile in diame- 
 ter, upon which there is considerable timber growing. The island is not more 
 than one-quarter of a mile from the western shore of the lake, and its shape is 
 a frustruni of a cone : the top seems to be depressed, and I think there is a small 
 crater in the summit of the island. I think a path could be made from the 
 suiuuiit to the water's edge, at the western edge of the lake ; for the formation 
 seems to be entirely pomice stone at that point, and to slope to the water's edge 
 at a less angle than any place else around the lake ; at this point also, a 
 boat could be let safely down to the water by a rope. 
 
 I do not know who first saw this lake, nor do I think it should be named after 
 the discoverer. Sergeant Stearns and Peyton Ford are the first white men who 
 ever reached its waters, and if named after any person, should be named for 
 them ; but as I do not believe a more majestic sheet of water is to be found 
 upon the face of the globe, I propose the name of " Majesty." It will be visited 
 by thousands hereafter, and some person would do well to build upon its banks 
 a house where visitors could be entertained, and to keep a boat or boats upoa 
 its waters, that its beauties might be seen to a better advantage.' 
 
 The grandeur of the Columbia River, which has else- 
 where been partially described, the wonders of Puget 
 Sound, the splendor of the snow-peaks bathed in sunrise 
 or sunset colors, the noble Mt. Hood blushing like a rose 
 from summit to base — the beautiful blue and purple of 
 the distant ranges, either east or west, all these united, 
 make Oregon and Washington more remarkable for scenery 
 than any other States in the Union, not excepting re- 
 nowned California, and mountainous Nevada. 
 
 Advantages for Commerce. We make use of the foUow- 
 
 i ! 
 
698 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 ing extract copied from a Report on the Wealth- and Re- 
 sources of Oregon^ and which applies equally well to Wash- 
 ington, only adding to the sections enumerated, the names 
 of other sections north of the Columbia : 
 
 " The internal trade of Oregon will always he confined to the trade between 
 tlie agricultural counties in the Wallaniet, Unipcjuu, and Rogue Rivtr valleys, 
 and the mining counties of Eastern Oregon and Idaho Territory, and will con- 
 sist simply in the transportation of the produce and manufacture of one section 
 to the other, to be exchanged for the bullion or coin of the mines, and will bo 
 carried on by means of a railroad to be constructed tlirough the Wallamet 
 valley, terminating at some point on the Colunibia, from which river steamers 
 ■will ply as far up as the centre of Idaho. To satisfy the most incredulous that 
 this trade will be rapidly and greatly enlarged, we have only to look at its 
 present rapid growth, the territory to be accommodated, and its resources. 
 
 The extent of country which is tributary to the agricultural resources of 
 Oregon is embraced in all that country from the summit of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains westward to the Cascade Range, and between the head-waters of the 
 northern and southern branches of the great Columbia, and reaching from the 
 head of the Owyhee on the south, away to the Kootenai River and its lately 
 discovered rich mines on the border of British America, being an extent of 
 country about eight liundrcd miles wide, and nine hundred miles long, or seven 
 hundred and twenty thousand square miles. This vast, and as yet almost 
 unexplored region, is by no means barren or inhospitable. The Catholic Mis- 
 sionaries have maintained their Missions among the Indians at the farthest 
 point north for many years, raising all the vegetables and grain necessary for 
 their use. Throughout the whole extent there are now nuning settlements 
 spreading in every direction. What was two years ago a vast, unbroken 
 wilderness, inhabited only by wild beasts and Indians, now contains not less 
 than thirty thousand American citizens, with cities and towns, saw-mills, quartz 
 mills, flouring mills, with all the busy hum of peaceful industry. And from 
 this great internal, mountain locked basin, is now being shipped down the 
 Columbia one million dollars of gold-dust per month, in exchange for flour, 
 bacon, beans, and merchandise sent up. Tliis handsome yield of gold will, 
 according to the present rate of progress, be increased to two and a half or 
 three millions per month in the course of another year. 
 
 Oregon possesses peculiar facilities for the creation and maintenance of a 
 large foreign commerce. She possesses unlimitod means for building ships- 
 timber, copper, iron, coal, water-power, agricultural productions, a harbor 
 equal to that of New York, and a maritime situation on the direct line of that 
 immense trade carried on by the nations of the West with the nations of the 
 East. The harbor of the Columbia River looks out upon the ports of Russisin 
 America, British Columbia, and Vancouver Island, the west coast of Mexico, 
 Central America, New Granada. Equador, Peru, Chili, and Patagonia on the 
 
w ■»■! tm 
 
 ' COAST. 
 
 ''calth and Re- 
 well to Wash- 
 ted, the names 
 
 •> the trade between 
 lof^ue Kivir valleys, 
 rilory, and will con- 
 icture of one section 
 3 mines, and will bo 
 jugh the Walhimet 
 ^hich river steamers 
 lost incredulous that 
 e only to look at its 
 nd its resources, 
 cultural resources of 
 if the Rocky Moun- 
 ! head-waters of the 
 nd reaching from the 
 
 River and its lately 
 , being an extent of 
 1 miles long, or seven 
 and as yet almost 
 The Catholic Mis- 
 idians at the farthest 
 1 grain necessary for 
 y mining settlements 
 go a vast, unbroken 
 now contains not less 
 ivns, saw-mills, quartz 
 industry. And fi-om 
 g shipped down the 
 n exchange for Hour, 
 ne yield of gold will, 
 
 to two and a half or 
 
 nd maintenance of a 
 for building ships— 
 roductions, a harbor 
 ;he direct line of that 
 th the nations of the 
 the ports of Russian 
 west coast of Mexico, 
 md Patagonia on the 
 
 (JENKIIAL RKMAUKS ON THK NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 599 
 
 American Continent, and on tho Eastern ports of the Russian Empire, India, 
 (.'liiuii, Japan, Australia, the Islands of Oceanica, the Sandwich Islaudn, and 
 the whale fisheries. The ports of all these countries are much rearer to the 
 Columbia River than they are to any of the ports of the Atlantic! States. 
 Tiicy are all of easy access, and there is no reason why Orej^on should not 
 coininenec competing for their trade. In tho year 18G0 tho United States 
 exported to the above named ports domestic produce amounting to the sura of 
 Sill»,U4.'j,!J'J8, and imported from the same places, in exchange, the produce of 
 said countries amounting to. $19,551,180, Tho imports from China alono 
 amounted to $i;5,5fiG,587. ' But wc are told that the Pacific Coast cannot eom- 
 ])('te with the Atlantic States for this trade. The custom-house exhibit shows 
 that the Pacific Coast can and does compete for this trade already, and not only 
 this, but also tho trade to Liverpool." 
 
 Then follow quotations from the " Market Review" of 
 the San Francisco Bulletin which show that the export 
 trade from the port of San Francisco for 1864, amounted 
 to $6,337,090.38; an increase of two millions over the 
 year 1862. ' - . • ■ . 
 
 " How much of this produce exported from San Francisco should be credited 
 to Oregon, we arc unable to say, but that a large portion of it is Oregon ])ro- 
 duce, we know from the fact that the steamers and sailing vessels plying be- 
 tween San Francisco and tho Columbia River, always return to Calitbrnia 
 freighted with Oregon produce. We simply give this report to show what has 
 already been done in foreign exportation from San Francisco, and even admit- 
 ting that it is all California produce, we know very well that Avhat will pay a 
 California fiirmer to ship abroad, will also pay an Oregon farmer, with equal 
 advantages. 
 
 Tlie only matter which should now prevent tlie merchants of the Pacific 
 Coast from becoming importers to the United States of the teas, coffee, spices, 
 barks, dye-woods, cotton, sugar, rice, Japanese ware, matting, gold and silver 
 of the above named countries, is, that we have not yet got the ships, or money 
 to do this business. For the year ending Juno 1st, 1864, Shanghae, China, 
 exported more than $25,000,000 worth of cotton, and now we should endeavor 
 to exchange our jiroduce for this cotton of China, and manufacture it hero in 
 Oregon, and build up a Lowell on the Pacific. 
 
 This golden harvest of trade is not yet ours, but when the Northern Pacific 
 Railroad shall have been completed, it will become ours from tho necessity of 
 the case. ^Vliat we want most now is a lino of ships nmning direct from Now 
 York to the Columbia River, bringing out our merchandise, and carrying back 
 via China and the East Indies, our produce, lumber, spars, &c. We are now 
 paying an immense annual tax to California capitalists by receiving and ship- 
 ping everything through the San Francisco warehouses. All our wheat, wool, 
 

 '4 
 
 ''-' '^^^^^m^mi' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 >ull 
 
 F^II|^^^^^^KT;i 
 
 r 
 1^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 GOO GENERAL IIEMAUK8 ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 &c., tliat, reaches a foroifjn market., exoppt what litthi direct tra(h> wo hare with 
 tiie Samlwich Islaiuls, is shipju-d first to San Francisco, wlicre it has to nay 
 wliarfajrc, drayaffe, Htoni^^c and conunission, before it can bo reshipped. Our 
 iiicrcliandisc coiniii'; to tliis State lias to pass tiiroii;;h tlie same taxing imx-ess 
 at San Francisco, in adilition to tlic profits of tiu; iniportcu' l)i'(()re it. It is no 
 wonder that Orcijon is in the shade of California, and it oiiij;lit to remain so as 
 long as wc will not make some clTort to remedy this state of aifain . ' 
 
 The above quotation throws some light upon the com- 
 mercial condition of the Northwest Coast, and explains 
 pretty clearly the feeling of its people regarding that po- 
 sition. So far the Manufactures of this countr)- have 
 been confined to lumber, flour, woolen goods, some coarse 
 leather, a little turpentine, an inferior article of ^(Ottery, 
 a limited quantity of matches, and as much mav.'n" i^ry as 
 three or four small foundries and machine shops could 
 turn out. Everything that is used on the farm, in the 
 garden, household, or in the mines, is imported at a great 
 expense. Iron has begun to be manufactured in Oregon, 
 and so has salt, but the complete development of these 
 things must wait, first for capital ; secondly, for railroads. 
 
 Probable Railroad Routes. The only railroad under 
 construction on the whole Northwest Coast, is the one 
 now building doAvn the Wallamet Valley, and called the 
 Oregon Central. It is intended to connect the Columbia 
 River with San Francisco Bay, and will form a portion of 
 that great line of railway by which Lake Superior, Puget 
 Sound, and San Francisco Bay will eventually be united. 
 Owing to the influence exerted by Portland capital, the 
 Oregon Central has been commenced at that point, but 
 that Portland will long remain the northern terminus is 
 incredible, when its position, and its distance from tfee 
 Columbia River are considered. A point for the northern 
 terminus of the Oregon Central will undoubtedly be fixed 
 where it will connect by ferriage over the Columbia, with 
 a road down the Cowelitz Valley from Puget Sound, thus 
 
GENKUAL Uli.MARKS ON TUE NOUTUWEai COAST. 
 
 601 
 
 makiiii:^ one continuous rorid tlirouf^h the whole length of 
 Wusliiui,4uii, Oi't'goii, and Calilornia, as tur as San Fran- 
 cisco, if nol as I'ar as San Diego. 
 
 The question undeeided at present by tlie Oregon Cen- 
 tnd is, Avhetluir to carry the road over the (.'alnpooya, 
 Uni})(|uu, and Siskiyou Mountains, directly south, and 
 open up the IJmpqua and Rogue River ValUiys to com- 
 merce, or to take it by a single easy pass through the 
 Cascade ^fountains, at or near Diamond Peak, and thence 
 southward along the almost level country to the head- 
 waters of the Sacramento. The latter would be the cheap- 
 est of construction, and might be made to form a branch 
 of the Central Pacific, while the former would take iu its 
 course some of the most desirable country in Oregon. , 
 
 Strong efforts are being made to get a branch road from 
 the Union Pacific to some point on the upper Columbia, 
 either at the Dalles, Umatilla, or Wallula. It is said that 
 in case the road comes to the Dalles it will cross the river 
 there, and pass on down the Columbia to some point be- 
 low the mouth of the Wallamet, either there to build up a 
 commercial town, or to connect with the road up the 
 Cowelitz Valley going north, and the Oregon Central, 
 going south. 
 
 Idaho and Montana are waiting on the action of these 
 railroad projectors, glad to see communication with the 
 coast made easy on any terms, and willing to lend their 
 aid to the first company in the field. 
 
 A strong sentiment, however, prevails throughout the 
 Northwest in favor of the Northern Pacific Railroad. To 
 this favorite enterprise, Montana and Idaho, Washington 
 and Oregon, all and each, lend their preference, and so far 
 as it is available, are willing to lend their material aid. All 
 understand that the Columbia River, taken in conjunction 
 with Puget Sound, offers to the commerce of the whole 
 
 r 
 
11 ^ 
 
 602 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE NORTHWEST COAST. 
 
 Pacific the most complete resources wliich the trade of the 
 world could require. And every intelligent citizen of the 
 Northwest loolcs forward in fancy to a day when busy 
 millions shall occupy this territory we have so inefficiently 
 described, and when it shall be the most favored portion 
 of the greatest earthly Republic. 
 
 When Thomas II. Benton, in a speech delivered at St. 
 Louis, in 1845, prophjcied that the men then listening to 
 him should see with li^'ing eyes a railroad to the Pacific 
 Ocean, and the trade of China and Japan flowing over it, 
 he was believed to be an enthusiast, if no worse. In 
 twenty-four years his prophecy has been accomplished, 
 and doubtless some of his hearers of that day have enjoyed, 
 or will yet enjoy, a trip by railway across the continent. 
 
 But Benton's pet scheme was a railroad which was to 
 connect with the mouth of the Columbia River. It was 
 Oregon, then undivided, that he looked to as the greatest 
 country on the American continent. Perhaps some lis- 
 tener to his speech of 1845, may live to see his judgment 
 vindicaLed. That is oar hope at least. 
 
 
 THE END. 
 
COAST. 
 
 e trade of the 
 citizen of the 
 r when busy 
 !0 inefficiently 
 ^^ored portion 
 
 livered at St. 
 n listening to 
 to the Pacific; 
 owing over it, 
 10 worse. In 
 accomplished, 
 have enjoyed, 
 e continent. 
 
 which was to 
 River. It was 
 as the greatest 
 laps some lis- 
 
 his judgment 
 
 33X1.. lSi,A.-SII-3Sl*ISi 
 GREAT PICTORIAL WORK, 
 
 ARCTIC EXPLORATIOIS, 
 
 CONTAINING OBAPIIIO DELINEATIONS OV 
 
 LIFE AMID THE ICE, 
 
 THE WONDERS OF THE GREAT POLAR GEA, AND THE 
 MARVELOUS ESCAPE OF THE EXPLORERS 
 
 FROM THE 
 
 RELENTLESS FRCST-LAND, 
 
 WHICH ao Lono htld thkm in m oraip, 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTT-TlIREii ELEQANT FULL PAGE, AND NEARLY THREE HUNDBKD 
 OTUER ENORAVINGS ON STEEL AND WOOD, PROU SKETCHES BY TUE AUTHOR. 
 
 WirH A BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH UY DR. KANE, 
 
 JTi. PROF. CHARLES W. 8U1ELD8, D. D., OV PKINJETON COLLEOE, N. J. 
 
 This celebrated work is published in One Elegant Octavo Volume of 768 
 pages. It is sold by subscription, and furnished to subscribers at the follow- 
 ing prices : 
 
 In Fine Cloth, $4,50 
 
 " " " Gilt Edge, 5,00 
 
 " " Leather, Library style, 5,00 
 
 '' " Half-Turkey, Gilt Edge 7,60 .,>.,^. 
 
 " " Full " " " 10,00 
 
 Copies will be sent by mail or express, prepaid, to persons residing in towns 
 where there are no Agents for the work, on receipt of the retail price. 
 
 iV;f>- 
 
 This sublime and niovinfr narrati\ o will have a charm and a power among men as long 
 as heroism continues to giiin reveroncc. No library in the laud will bo tolerably com- 
 plete without it. — Neiv York Independeiri. 
 
 It is a wonderful book, and will bo for future ages one of the proudest monuments of 
 our mitivo land. — Protectant Churchman. 
 
 A nnrrativo of actual fact and experience, it yet possesses the fascination of the most 
 intensely wrought fiction. — Ghurrh Advocate. 
 
 Few novels wore ever written tluit aro so fuscinating ant* so thrilling ns this anstudiod 
 «toryof un endurance that was heroic, and a daring that wcs sublime. — Libei alWiristian. 
 
 We commend the work with emphasis and without qi'alification, as ono which equally 
 fascinates, instructs, and kindles the reader.. — Morniiuj iStar, Dover, N. H. 
 
 Kane's Arctic Explorations. — Wo shall never forget the deep interest, almost reach- 
 ing cntliusiasm, witli M'hich the public first read the romantic and thrilling adventures 
 ol' Dr. Kane in the Arctic regions, and a new edition of that valuable book will be 
 warmly welcomed. It will never grow old ; it is too great a contribution to science to 
 be laid upon the slielf ; it is too intrinsically interesting in its well-wrought narrative to 
 become a thing of tho past, and the later journeys into the ice-regions by Hayes and 
 otliers only cnlT renewed attention to the former work of Dr. Kane. Tlie book, is beau- 
 tifully illustrated with stool plates and now cuts, and is to bo roconmiended in all re- 
 spects. It. W. Bliss & Co., ot Hartford, Ct. , ..re the publishers, and tiiey have performoi 
 their part of tho work in a very creditable mimuer. — Waiehman <£ Uejiector, Jioston. 
 
 Agents wanted. 
 
 Address 
 
 R. W. BLISS & CO., Hartford, Ct, and Toledo, Ohio. 
 
 BLISS & CO., Newark, N. J. 
 
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