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STATrS-M ,Nnkr, AND CCSTOMS OF Ul E J'l.OPLE J CANADA , Mrin ..V ,,eorxr oi the coi.ONi,.- E.noUAT,ov-SKErc„KS OK .OCIET V-E .PEN.ES OK Tn.lVELl.J.VG— SLLNEUV, ETC, ETC. BY THE WIFE OF .A BRrrrsil 0] 1 TCER, Ki:SII)£NT iv CANADA. M LONDON : SIMPKIN, MAKSHVLE. and CO. stationehs'-hml-couk:. 183G. ADDllESS. l-v ofFering to her youtl.lul fnerul. and the ;'"Wic the little work oC '• H,;vrv_ „, „,^. itiA\F.l,U.ll, the Au(hoio.s>. canuot prcsn.ne to anticipate e.ther a har- vest of fan., or emohwa.-nt : her amh.tion, vever, I voJuriK' trifl ould lead i,er tc. Lope that i,e '"^' ^'^ it may appear, will not ''' ^^'^^-»H destitute of interest, but I'erusal wiJI he found to contai i'»l information, blended with correct statement of faetj upon n some iise- ^aithfiil and lier endeavour to vvhicii she judged '>e read ^vith pleasurable feej for ^vh which it hah be en '^^ niUiiner pourtray in ^^ouh] be most likely to "ii^' ''J those om it Is chiefly designed ; and sh<^ trusts that tile eye of ,cru 3-2 * Chap. VI. Departure from New York, and sail up the Hud Uiver, &,( Ison 43 Chap. VIL West Pomt.—Military Acad m etc &( iry Academy. — JMajor Andre^ 56 Ch vp. VUl. QiJittmg' West Poiut.-FIslikill Mount ains, — Pough- epsie. ~- Hyde Park. — Catskill. — Pine Or^ ^l»ard, &c (54 ke Vm CONTENTS. Chap. IX. Albany, tlie Seat of Government for the State of New York. — Its Environs. — Niskiiynna. — The Shakors. — Sir William Johnson, vvc 7*2 '| CiTAP. X. Departure from Albany. — Troy. — ('anal Tow-Boat, &c. 85 Chap. XI. Whitehall.— Lake (Miamplain.— The Water-Witch ^ Steam-boat. — Arrival at Burlington. — lJej)arture, ^cc 95 C.IAP. XII. Lake Cb^implain continuofl. — Plattsbiiri>. — House's Point. — Steam-boat Franklin. — Isle Aiix Noix. — Lower Canada 1 1 1 Chap. XIII. Henry's Pursuits. — The Emigrant. — St. John's. — La Prairie, 8cc - \'2<) Chap. XIV. ]Mt)ntreal. — Rascoe's Hotel. — Review. — Climate. — Conclusion. . 127"" 4 II- Pajr, le State oi una. — The I'J. roH-lJoat, 85 ier-Witcl» departure, <)5 -Rouse's nx NoIa. ..Ill Jolin's. — 120 liniate.- • • » ■ in nEXPvY; OR, THE JrVi:xiLE TRAVELLER. CHAPTER I T/i(^ Eiiihurkatkyn. " Away ! away ! tlie ship rides fasi On rhf North wind's eagle wings, (Jracefiilly sh« bows ht'r mast, And onward, onward springs." '' And sl)all we not return to England for u very rcnj long time, niannnn ?" said little Henr> :; ^ addi-essing his mother, as they entered tlie London Doeks, for the purpose of einbarkin,^ Nn the packet-ship Columbia, for Kvw York. '• The period of our absence is uncertain, rny 'l<^ar/' was the reply. '' You know we are go'- '"- to join your papa in Canada, and as he is an ''ilicer in his Majesty's service, his movements B 2 HENUY, OR rio not, depend upon liiineeH': I hope our absence frofrt our native land will not be \vv\ {outx. but tl»at, when the period allotted tor yonr father'^ services in Canada may have exjiired, wo shall r<'turn to onr valued fVi(nuls, and to dear Old Knglanl, uhich nature and early associations have tanghi us to love beyond any other COUIiti'v." The conversation between Hcnrv and his mother was here interru])t(?d by an announce- ment that the packet was under weii,''h, and would leave the dock innnediately. Befor v\'e ad vance m our narrative, it wi 11 perhaps be ^a-atilyin^; to our young* readers to learn a little more of Henry's history, whom we (•onsider a smart intellii-eiit boy of his ai»:e, haviuir '-»'- ) hardly attained his tenth year, when he embarked with his mamma ami sister, on a passa^^e to New York to join his fatlnn*, ^\ho avo have already stated to be an oflicer in Ids Majesty's service, and was then stationed in Canada. In conse- (pience of the ])ubHc duties of this parent, the education of liis little son had hitherto chiefly devolved on Ids mothcM', who, although of a Irulji^ indulgent disposition, loved her child too well to spoil him : to make him wise and ha))py had been with lier a consi:R. d he could not enjoy if siiftered to contract liabits uf idleness; he \\as, therefore, never allowed to be uueniploved ; and in the hope that he miufht obtain the second important object, special care had beiii taken to instil into his young mind such a fund of good princijde and useful knowledge as might be expected to lay the foundation for an ho!i()in-able and virtuous life, j^ittlc Henry loved his parents with great tenderness, and was looking forward with nuich delight to the prospect of soon Joining Ids father, who had en- gaged to become his future preceptor. Under maternal instruction he had alreadv obtained a laudable and)ition to progress as far as possible i.i such studies as would prove that his time had not been misemployed during the temporary se- |)aration from his excellent fatlier ; at least such is our impression J but we \vill leave our young friends to forin their own judgment as they follow little Henry on his vovage across the Atlantic, and after his arrival on the continent of America, >aiiguinely hoping tliat their expectations of him may not be disapj>ointed, nor the time devoted to the persual of this little volume considered as mis[)ent. Jt was on the 2r)th of July, 1832, that our juvenile hero commenced bis voyage from the lA-^K-! IIKXRY, OR renowned London Docks: the hustle, the con- fusion, and the novelty of the scene, as he was hnrj'ied on board the Columbia, tended quickly to dispel the cloud of sorrow whieli on that n\ornine; shaded his usually cheerful brow ; for although Henry had much happiness to antici- j)ate in meeting his ffither, he was still not insen- sible to feeling!? of deep regret as he received the parting embrace of many valued and much-loved friends ; but, above all, he felt that he was about to bid a lengthened adieu to an elder brother, lor wliom he iustlv cherished the tenderest re- i^ard, and from whom he was now for a season to be sc])arated by the "wide expanse of ocean.' Hut w^arm as were such feelings, this was not to his young mind the time for deep reflection : the tear was dashed from hh eve, and his countenance bore but one expression of inquiry and amaze- ment. He longed to ask his mother a thousand (piestions about the vessel and the peopleon b(jard, but as he knew that she had at that moment much to occupy her mind, lie judged it an impko- per tim-e to trouble her, and therefore remained a silent spectjttor of passing events until the ship reached Gravesend, when the breeze freshening, Henry, with many of his fellow-passengers, found ii expedient to retire to the cabin ; the disagree- -I t THE JUVENILE TRAVELLER. ^, the ron- as he was ed quickly li on that brow ; for s to antici- not insen- jceived the iiiich-Ioved was about jr brotlier, idcrcst rc- V a season of ocean.' was not to ction : the )untenance ml amazc- a thousand icon b(jard, it niomtnt I an inipio- ! remained til the ship freshening, ^ers, found e disagree- able qualms of sea-sickness were not, however, f of very long duration, for by the time the vessel I Ijud ancliored at Portsmouth, he pronounced himself to be convalescent, and was again to be '^cen on deck. i HENRY, OB CHAPTER H. Departure from Portsmoutk. ** Slow moves our vessel o'er the wat'ry way, No wind disturbs the ev'tiirig^'s placid calm, No threat'ning billows daslt around their spray ; We see no danger, and we fear no harm." F. W. K. B. The we.ithor wa?? beautifully fine, and the inces- sant bustle occasioned bv the arrival and return w of boats conveying visitors of all descriptions to and from the shore, afforded a varietv of scene well calculated to divert the youthful thought from that gloomy foreboding and depression, which, in spite of our efforts, will invariably obtrude itself uj)on the mind of every reflecting individual who is about to bid adieu to their na- tive land to brave the dangers of the '* foamy deep," trusting to a plank only between them- selves and eternity. The scene of confusion and bustle on board the packet relieved all monotony, and atlbrded i I THE JL'VENILE TRAVEi.LEH. ray J i', N. li. the inccs- md return riptions to y of scene il thouglit lepression, invariably reflecting o their iia- e ** foaniv cen them- ? on board id aflurded but little time or inclination for reflection : from the risine;" of the siui until the going- downof the same, a conjplete fleet of boats of all sort*^ and sizes were to be seen sailing or jjlying to and fn»m the identical Columbia, while tfie increasing arrival of cabin and steerage passengers excited the utmost astonislunent in the mind of our little hero, who could not conceive where they W(,'re all to be stowed: there Avcre about thirty-five in the cabin -, and in the steerage, bipsides the sailors, upwards of a hundred individuals emigrating to America, many of them mechanics, and others agriculturists, who were quitting their native soil, hoping in the New World to improve their fortunes ! Henry was greatly studies. Their passage, however, promised to be of short duration, for a favourable breeze had been wafting them for some days through the briny oeean at the rate of ten knots an hour. While the chessmen, backgammc>n, draughts, Lord Byron, and IMrs. Trollope, were affording anuiseinent, and subjects for discussion wirii the rider passengers, Henry mui his friend ibund great delight in building and rigging cork and paper vessels, which they let down at the stern of the ship, and in watching the progress of their little miniature fleet sailing after the packet. WIkmi, liovvever, tlie weather was too I'ough to admit of this amusement, Mrs. B. found ample employment in answering Henry's questions, and in listening to his remarks concerning the singu- larities and wonders of the sea, which had not escaped his observation. '' 1 have been thinking, niamnia," said he one day, addr(}ssing his mother, when the gale was freslier than he had hitherto seen it, " that the sea is a grand, but; a very awful element : niparcd sixty or J live as )f no ani- ired with e one of e y ester- the ship, it ; yet, ^i niuinina, there are many other wonderful f>ro- ductions with which we are unac(piainled, as well as those undi--covered in the sea j for in- stance, rocks mountain: vaile vs, caves, i md varietv of animals which live at the hottom, and others near the surface, tliousands of which it is imj)Os -ihle to descrihe, either their size, con- struction, or even use, Mrs. B, — '' But all of which, my rlear boy, c:>ntrihute to prove the infniite (tower and wis- dom ct the Creator, u])on ^v•hose mercies we cannot reflect witliout fe( lings of g-rat(;fal adora- tion !'' Henry. — " I think, mamma, there is no situa- tion in whicli we ouglit to he more grat(.'ful for rlie Almighfy's goodness than when at sea; we are ex})osed to so many dangers which we could hardly expect to escape without his special pre- servation r the ca])tain has told me, that altliough of seldom occurrence, yet the whirlpool is one of those jjcrils which occasionally prove fatal to shipping, by turning the vessel rapidly round with the current, and terminating the mischief by sinking or swallowing it up ; hut he did not explain to me the cause of the whirlpool." Mr,s. B. — " 1 have understood that thev urcne- ml CJ rally proceed from immense cavities in the sea, where contingent rocks and dilFerent currents 12 HENRY, OR meet, Iml liappily for voyagers are not of com- mon occurrence; the waterspout is Jilso a phe- nomenon perliaps of equal dangv.-r, but not often met with. We shall, 1 hope, ha\ e the c^ood for- tune to escape all such calamities." " 1 hope so, too," said IJcnry, leaping from his seat, in obedience to a summons from his young friend, wlio called him to look at a nume- rous flock of porpoises that were sporting round the vessel ; their attention was, however, soon arrested from this finnv swinish tribe, by a call from the mast head, that a sloop was off the lee- bow of the ship. The news was welcomely re- ceived, for they were near the banks of New- foundland, and anxiously wishing to fall in with a fishing snjack to procure a bancjuet of fresh cod, there to be met with in abundance and great perfection : their wishes were soon rea- lized. As they neared tlie sloop, the captain and some of the passengers boarded her, and for a few bottles of rum, received a fine stock of live cod and halibut, which were \ery acceptable, particularly to the steerage passengers, m ho had shared but lightly of the luxuries with which the more fortunate individuals in the cabin were well supplied. Henry, who had been for some time intently gazing at the shoals of fish which were still ^ , I Hi ■n Tin: .TUVKNILE TRAVKLLKR. 13 of COIll- -.o a p lie- nut often i;oo(\ for- ing from from liis a numc- i!g round ^'er, soon jy a call ' the Ice- >melv re- of Ncw- U in with of fresh ince and oon rea- tain and md for a V of live ceptahle, \\ ho had hich the )in were intently 'cre still floundering on tlie decl< of the Columbia, again re>umed his seat by his mother, saying, '' I have been thinking, dear mamma, of what you tohl me about the wonders of tfie sea, and I feel convinced that nothing I have heard exceeds in curiosity the formation of tlie fish : tliat it should be able to live, move, and fulfil every animal function in that boisterous element, which would prove so fatal to us, were we to plunge into it for only a short period of time, apj)ears to mv verv extraordinarv." Mt'b'. B. — *' Vet it affords an additional {)ro(>t <»f the su[)reme wisdom of our general Parent, who, to enable these; creatures to live in the wa- ter, has constructed their bodies very differently from those land animals : their bones are so fornied as to afford a iiexibility to their bodies, which other animals have not; you observe, also, their eyes are placed deeper into their head, to guard tliem from injury ; and the scales with which they are covered preserve their bodies tVorn being injured by the weight of the water." Henry. — " But there arc some fish that are without scales." Mrs. B. — " Such are provided with another "Substitute : they are enveloped with a fat and oily substance, to preserve and guard them from such dangers as are incident to their nature. 14 IlKNRVj OR I . The inuat wonderful part of their construction appears to nie to be their fin=i, "svliich are almost their only linib*;, and yt:t are sufficient to perforin all ihev require: the gills are their organs of respiration , but one of the most valuable organs to the lish in swimniinir is the bladder of air in the stomach, by means of which they dimin'sh or increase the wei^'^ht of their body, can rai»e themselves aiid float on the surface of tlie water, but by compressini^ the air, the body becomes heavier than the M'aiei , and conse(jnently sinivs down/' Henry. — " I am U'uch obligcMl, dear mamma, for the explanation you have given me^ and 1 am sure that I sliall never see a fish \vithout reflect- ing on its wonderful construction, and feeling grateful to that ^'ood Providence which has been pleased to bestow them for our use." Mrs. B. — *' Continue to cidtivate such feelings, my dear boy ; they will [)roduce you n^.ore true happiness than all the riches of the earth or sea could give. Here comes steward^ with a smoking dish of stewed halibut : go below, and enjoy your dinner." I '■4' 1 r. '\4 TUV. JUVKNILE 1RAVI0LLKR. 15 CH VfTI.R rii The Icebery^ and xif/ht of Land, \ vKvv mornini^s after the discussion on fish, lltni'y was awoke at an early honr from a sound ^k'C|) by his little cheerful conipani^-n, with ilie vvj)nls — ** Come, Henry, ha«ten on (leek, wc are in s^iijfht of an iceberi(, and the captain is kind enoui^h to lend us his telescope that we may see it di.stinetly, for he says it would be endangerinsr tlie ship to approach very near." Oiu' little hero thanked Ins ij^ood-natured friend, and in a few moments was by his side on the deck, takini^ a telescopical view of an immense mountain of ice, supposed to be not more than four miles distant from the ship : it w^as a iiiagnihcent spectacle, and hiii:hly gratifynig to the little boys, who could hardly conceive it possible that so lart;^e a solid body of ice couhl have moved from its ori~ ginal station, probably in a far distant river, to so great a distance on the Atlantic, where it was now sailing with as much independence and dig- nity as if it had been a ninety-gun shij)^ com- n I w IlENRV, OR mand('4 by an admiral of his Britannic Majesty' >> i I navy ^^ I Iiavo often read of an iceberg', nianniia/ said Henry, " and am now very glad that 1 have seen one, for it ap|>ears to me a wonderful plie- nomenon ; yet J cannot i <;concile to my mind how anv river can carrv down in its i«trcam an iceberg of sucli inunense weight and size; I am also puzzled to understand the principle upon which it is formed." Mr.^. B. — " I will endeavonr to explain it to yon, my dear, as wt;li as I can ; but in Canada, from whence, {.erha[)s, that which you have just seen can»e, we shall j)robably become better ac([uaint(:(j with pie iceberg than we are at pre- sent. 1 wiil, however, give you an idea by what means it is formed. There arise, in different places, on the surface of a running stream, spe- cies of whirlpools, in whicii acpieous particles remain stationary : this moment of undisturbed repose is sulTicient for the action of the cold tc congeal its particles : leaves, pieces of timber, and other things, are frequently to be seen float- ing down a river : the Avater that surrounds them forms the central part^ round which other aqueous particles adhere : thus the ice extends, and soon spreads by the adjunction of otlier par- ticles. This elfect acting on several points at the i 4: TUB JUVKXILE TIIAVELIEK. i; ^amc time produce a siniultaneoiis formation of ilimati(Jin, now thanked Mrs. B., and ran off- to lake u farewell peep of tht^ object that had so deeply excited their interest ; for the ca])tain had 'i)(ered the course of the ship, and they would ouickly lose sight of the iceberg for ever. A lew days subsequent to this event the wel- come sound of '•'^Land cvhead!" was echl)ed iVum stem to stern of the good sbip Columbia ; all were (juickly on deck to catch a glimpse of thi' promised land, which annoiniced their ap- proach to New York ; for, although the voyage had been as pleasant as a voyage across the Atiajuic is expected to be, yet, after thirty-three ejdthy dnrinij her voyage, tiie cajitaia was allowetl to land his pa.s;=engers witli ail possible dispatch. i ■ .f^ # % \ til m 'Hi i * ■■!• H ill i! ( t 1 i 1 r .' > 1 ! , !• 1 M f^ 20 HENRY, OR •* A: CHAPTER IV. The landing. — New York. — Its Bay^ ^c. " And I like to see Its bay so free, ^Miere the ships float far from danger." F. W. N. B. ■(I I i il During these passinaf events, FIcnry had been enjoying an exquisite treat, in taking a fnll sur- vey of the surrounding scenery; yet, in the midst of joy, he could not entirely dispel a cloud of sorrow, which, in spite of his efforts, would occasionally darken his usually cheerful counte- nance, as he shook by the hand, for the last time, the worthy Captain Delano and hi^ young Ame- rican friend : his mother observed a tear glide silently down bis cheek, the outpouring of an affectionate and grateful heart. New York bay certaiidy presents a very fas- cinating appearance, and on the morning of our hero's landing was adorned with all that nature i ! # »''> '■¥ f! XriE JUVRNILK TRAVKI LER. 21 lat nature vi)\\\d add to enhance its beauty. A more bril- liant day never slioiie from the heavens ; nor can \vc imai,^ine a more heart-stirrhiir or enlivening 'Cciic than it presented on the close of our voy- ;i«r^. : — the magnificent bay stnddiid with ]nc- f!»resfjue islands and batteries, while her city iioiiued to be enveloped in an entire forest of ^hipping of every description, whose varied co- lours ])ronounced them of every quarter of the world. The heights of Brooklyn and its pretty vil!ag(\ which form part of Long Island, have a verv attractive appearance on one side: on the other, across the Hudson, is seen a beautiful view of the shores of New Jersey : the whole j)r('scnting a perfect panorama, and a more su- perb and Jm})osing view than had ever before met the eye of our little voyager, whose ecstasy uas bevond control : cncrgeticallv he exclaimed upon landing, — " I did not expect to see in \)uerica so beautiful and large a city as New Vork!" Mrs. B. — " Its general appearance is, indeed, Dju'u and inviting ; but we nmst remember, my dear Henry, that we are in what is considered to be the best and most important street in the city, Avhich is called the Broadway, noted ecjually for its length and elegant buildings." Henry. — '^ 1 do not think, compared with our '!ii il tion of wine and beer; for the former, the charge is two dollars per bottle ■ the tables are well supplied with almost every luxury the season will afford. But the extreme haste with which the Americans at the tadlc (fhole dispatch their meals, the very business- like manner in which they eat, and the silence maintained throughout the repast, tend x<) de stroy that sociability which so generally predo- minates at an English dining-table, affording a zest to the enjoyment of the meal to which the Americans appear to be perfect strangers: for I ih, s ■ » T FI E J r \ K N 11, E T U A V E UK R . with llu'in — I spcjik ow/// of the /mblic tables — tlic ct'remony of the diuirii^-rooiu is (lispatcluHl \\'\{\\ the .-aine ({uickncss, solemnity, and ^ilciic-c, as tlicv \\(>iilression that there is wantitii:^ in the Ajiu>ricau eharaeter that iahleness which tends so elfeetuallv to pro- SO( mote a fri( tidly intercourse })et\veea travellers ;md the iidudjhants of a country thivjuiih which (tie) may be passini^ ; however, ii tins system wf «ileuce and (lis[)atch be not quite so coLiyenial to tlie tastes of Eiu'opeans, it is certainly more fiiendlv to tlieir constitutions than the idle habit m' f)l ^ittiner at the table for hours after dinuer, to the prejudice not only of their health and njorals, hut too frecpiently also to their I'ortunes. Much caa with truth be said of the hospitality of the inliabitauts of New York, jmrl of l!ie unostenta- tious kiiuhiess with which hitroductions are re- eeivetl. The style in which private families live is eleij;ant and condbrtable, and the domestic cir- rles in wfiich the author has had the ])leasiH*c of joining were truly unaffected, un|)rejudiccd, and iiiiiiable : good feeling, combined with genuine politeness enuuiating from the heart, seemed to !i I II 24 HENRY, OR H ' I hO, infliiCMCc tlicir g-cneral con('i:jt, vvliile cadi iii- dividual appeared to inherit a laudable spirit , and to sec such o!)jects a« were consi- a-ji-cd most worthy of attention. Their first visit to the Battery, whicii is sitnated at the south- vi i)oint ofthe city : it is prettily hii ■ s^ely disapp< all o the count iiiiij jgagements, tli , to seek cmplov] cr while Mrs. iJ ,dy to couim(>iu Ltion being llu'' 3d an intelligt'l principiil publi I ihA only of the harbour and its shipping, but also of (Jovernor's, BedloH^'s, and Ellis's Islands, vvliich are military stations ; the beautiful shores of New Jersey and Long Island, the village of IHrooklyn, (\^hicll, by the by, is now a city,) in- terspersed with many pleasant country-seats and elegant cottages, liavc also a very pleasing and ini[)osing' effect from the Battery. Henry and (lis sister were nnicli junused by witnessing the ^'innher and medley of persons embarking on ijoard and disembarking from the steam ferry- boat, \v'hich crossed every five minutes with pas- s(.ni);ers to and from Brooklvn. This beauiifid «^{)0i is the chosen lesidence of many of the rich nitrchants of New York, who not only consider It more salu))rious, but are glad, after the la- bours of the day, to escaj)e from the bustle and I noise of the city. Henry intjuij-ed of his mamma who were the c i i •i Ij m I / M /' ',l! i i!:, > !!• I I f 20 HENRY, OH first inhabitants of New York. Mrs. 15. informed him that its earliest inliabitant? were the Dutch, who, about the year 1615, founded it under tli. ,f" of N. name or i\ew Amsterdam, and tluit it was uic(>r poratcd by the English in lODG. "Of what 1 extent, mammi," said Henry, " is the island on which it stands ?" *' 1 understand," said Mrs. B. " that it is fit- teen miles long, and from one to three broad." Henry's attention was now attracted by ti.( guide })oiuting out the City Hall, which is situ ated in an enclosure called the Park. The apart- ments in this handsome structure for holding the different Courts of Law ai-e fitted up in a ridi and expensive style : the room appropriated for lioldinsr the Mayor's Court is furuislied wiri elegance and neatness. Henry could not, how ever, suppress a smile as he whispered to his mamma, " Observe the spittoon before every ^eat ! What Mrs, Trollope states about the American gentlemen spitting must be true/ His mother told him to suspend all observations that could possibly give offence : and the gui(io inquired if he would like to sit in the chair in which Washington was inaugurated Presides of the United States. This was an honou. which the little man could not well refuse. Of fcring his arm to his sister, tliey placed theui THE J^;^ ENILE TRAVELLKK. ^ " that it is fit- tliree broad." ttracted by tl.( ^§ I'M i, which is situ rk. The apart- S for holdinff tlio tk d up in a rirt ppropriatcd fo famished wiii on hi not, liow lispered to 1 before evr- ites about thi lust be true ill observatio. and the £?ui* n the chair ii: ated Preside!) as an bono 11 refuse. (■■'■ placed the Hi Lives in the exalted seat, which is raised nu -»r liandsonu' can()[)y, and covered witli rich pu - )!;.' velvet. Washington was inanj^nrated prt^si- K lit of the United States on the 30tli of April, 1789, in the oi)en gallery of the City Hall of New Itork, in view of many thousands of spectators. The (jovernor's apartments in the City Hall are erv neatly )>ut not .inperbly furnished. They contain some valualde busts and exceedingly ^oud paintings, chiefly the portraits of tiieir most ?niincnt statesmen juid celebrated i;aval and nilitarv connnanders. General Wasbincton fcoldh a distininii^hed place in almost evervcham- )er, and near him is jiIso generally seen the por- bait or bnst of La I ayette. ^' This is a hand- some structure/' said Henry, as he dr^scended ilif steps leading from the City Hali, and looking i[) at its beautiful marble front; -^ it is quite nodern i I sup})ose it has not been Ion,; built/" The guide intornu?d liim that the foundation- |if)ne of the building was laid in 1803, and the uliole completed in 1812, at an expense of live Kindred thousand dollars. The party then pro- eded to visit Trinity Church, in the Broadway. (his handsome structure is of stone in the Gothic jtyle, and has a steeple 198 feet high : it contains chime of bells, the only set in the city, and liad flso a fine organ. The cemetery surrounding 1 ■■ I 1|: ' I ' •28 KENRV , OH !i I li. 1 1 1 i M :| M !'■'■ I, : V . I tlic cliurch lb ancient, and is enclosed by an iron railini(. Our tfuidc said that no interment \v,v\ tal\(Mi |)lacc in this cemetery for many years, a hiw havint^ passed in New York proliibitini,^ sepidture wiihin the populous parts of that city but tliat it was ascertained hy authentic- record that more than one })undr(>d and sixtv thousann bodies have been there deposited, exclusive o! the seven years' revolutionary war, when no re corcis were j)reserved. The interior of the rhurcli is e\ceedini;]y neat. Near the altar is a hand- some monument, erected by tlie cor|)oration to tlie memory of General Hamilton, as a testimony of their respect for one whose patriotic integrity the Americans hold very sacred. He was bore in tlie island of St. Croix in 17.57, and came rr« New York in 1773: for many years he was tli faithful aidde-camp of General Washington, and always enjoyed his confidence and friend- shi[) ; unfortiuuitely, however, he was killed in a duel with Colonel Burr in 1801, universally la mented by the people of that country to which he had devoted his talent and services. Near the same spot is also a monument erected to tla memory of Captain Lawrence, of the Unitei' States navy, who was distinguished by his bravery and skill : he fell while commanding the Chesa peak frigate in the last war, engaged in acti(Hi ^■y THE JUVENILE TRAVELLER. 20 led ill acti(M with tlie British frigate Shannon. There are witliin this ■ hiirch several other nioiiuments ((juiilly deserving of notice; but Henry's atten- tion was partieul.'irly attracted in walking round the cemetery by an oblong pile of masonry, siiiJiiounted bv a marble slab, on which are 'iigraven ib^ followitig words: — " MV MOTHER. '' The trumpet shall sound, and the dead shall rise." This sacred pile was doubtless erected as a tri- bute of tdial piety; but there are no characters or letters on the slab to afford the least trace by wlioin, or to wiiose memory, it was erected : it \>, however, singularly affecting, and excited ttar> of sympatliy from the affectionate- hearted JJenrVj and his no less amiable sister. Having taken a cursory view of the most inte- resting objects in Trinity Church, they proceeded next to St. Paul's Chapel^ which contains also some valuable memorials. Under the portico, w hich is suj)ported by four fluted pillars ofbrowii stone, is a monument erected by order of Con- gross to the memory of General Montgomery, who fell at the storming of Quebec in .177»>' J'his distinguished officer was a native of Ireland. 'ria 'L !^( i }\ i) I 11 -'i S I; i t i '1 i ; I \ 1 .1 i ' r 1 i l!i^ i^ i ih \ 4^ ' f i M I I 30 HENRV, Oil At the commencement of the American revoki- tion he was appointed MajorGeaeral in th< army destined for the attack on Canada, where he met his death. His remains were removed to New York, and interred beneath the monu ment in 1820. Our guide informed Henry thai the spire of St. Paul's chapel is 234 feet high. In tlie adjoiinng burial ground is a cenotaph to the niemorv of Thomas Addis Emuiet, a late eminent counsellor^ and brother to the Irish orator, Robert Emmet. This monument is em hellished with the American eaij^le slieltoring a harp unstrung, and a medallion likeness oi Emmet, with clasped hands, having stars round one wrist, and shamrocks round the other : on one side is a Latin, and on the other an Irish inscription. As there are nearly a hundred churches in New York, and each one would pre sent something to interest their attention, and delay their time, Mrs. B. proposed, as they had seen the two most important, that they should now only take a glance into the Roman Catholic Cathedral in Mott-Street, and then return to their boarding-house to dinner. On their way they passed Columbia College, chartered in 1750 under the appellation of King's College. It cotitaius a chapel, lecture-rooms, hall, library, nmseum, and an extensive philosophical and 4 ' THE JUVKNILF TRAVELLER. 31 jivtronomicul a^)paratus, with which Henry was iiii(lil\ delighted, ai?d very i)r()perly expreissed Ills j^ense of oblii*"ati<)n to a gentlemaii connected ^viih the institntion, who had taken great pains (o give him sucli ex|)kinations as liis several «{iie>tions recpiired. Thev th( n visited the New York Society Librarv, nhieh is stated to contain n}) wards of twenty iliousand volumes, many of which are very rare ind vahiable. The Historical Society of this iitv have also a library often thousand volumes. A little tired with liis walk, but highly grati- fied With what he had seen, and grateful tor the idormation lie had gained, we shall now leave httJe Henry and his party to partake of a good dinner. a . 15 '•! f'-i ■ H'. >.l •■' i H .4. ii Ml 32 HENRV, OR CHAPTER V. A Pleasant Rencontre. — The Dinner. — Navy Yard, — Theatre^ isc. ! !' Mrs. B. was iiiucli aslonirslied, and equally pleased, to meet, on enterincf the dining-room, an A nierican i,^en tleman of llie name of l*eiliam, to whom she liad been introduced at tlie house of a friend, in Eiiiifland. This gentleman was a clergyman, and hud travelled a great (\(n\ in Europe^ ])arti- cularly in England, where, having i)artaken of much hospitality, he had ciuitracted many friend - sliips, of which he valued none more sincere!) than that of the amiable family whrre he had frequently met Mrs. B. and In / husband, and he now rejoiced that an opportunity presented ir^;ell", in his own country in which he could manife-;i. hi> feelings, by showing attention to an English family : he stated that he was also on the wing to Canada, and would with Mrs. B.'s [)ermission jcin their party, and acc?ion over her s spirits. A- three o'clock was the appointed dinner- hour in Mrs. Hossack's establishment, there was \vi some time to spare before evenini^, which Mr. Pelham suggested should be devoted to vi- sitiiit'- tlie Navy Yard, which is situated on J^ong Island, and near to l5rooklyn : to this proposal all jovfuily acceded : and as the ceremony of .'lining was as usual cpiiekly dispatched, a coach wa.s presently at the door to convey th»' happy jiurty to the Ferry. *' J remark," said Henry, iiddressing liis new friend, " that vour hackney- coaclus in New Y<-k are infinitely iu>at,er and 'leaner than thos<> I have been accustomed to >ee in liondon ; the horses are in bettci* condi. (ion, and seem to be treated with greater hu- manity ; the coachmen also have a more resjiect- ahl V. aj>j>earance, a Yonr ol)servation as re-: ;ii'ds onr hackney-coaches," said Mr I'clham, i' |>erfecLly just: thev are certaiidv of a very ( 2 'h* I il I; ■ I I ■ \ M ^' 34 HENRV, OR I superior class to tliose usually seen on the stands in London; the horses also are hetter iiccoutred, iind generally better conditioned ; but I am afraid we cannot sav much in favour of our coachmen : they are frequently great rogues, and will impose in their charges, if they possibly can, on strangers ; it is tlierefore always neces- sary to make a bargain with them before )oii enter tlieir vehicle." The coachman now drew up his horses by the side of the Ferry, and in live minutes the parly were landed on the Brooklyn side of the river, where they engaged another carriage to drive them to the Navy Yard, a distance of about a mile, through one of the prettiest villages that can be imagined. The commanding officer at the Navy Yard happened to be a friend of Mr. I'elhatn's, and received ilio party with greai politeness: by his order, one of the people em- ployed on the premises conducted ITeru'y tbrougli the several work- shops, ex[>laiuing to him the whole proces? of ship building : he also saw tw<. or three larg(; vessels on the stocks : they then went on board the Franklin United States frigate The quiet, order, and regularity, with which t! ( several dutii"^ seemed to be jierforming through- out the (litt'erent departments, quite astonished Henry, who appeared unwilling to quit a spot in THE JUVEMI.K TRAVELLER. 35 Avhich lie was ii;ainini^ so mucli useful inlorina- tioii, Mr. Pelham vvhispored to liiiu, liovvever, tliat they >vere probably iutrudini^ ou tbe time of the officer; and that he bad taken a box at the Park Theatre for that eveniiii^; it was therefore necessary to hasten hoinej in order to see the opcniiiJ? of the play. This was. indeed, an un- expected ])leasure, to wliich Mrs. B. felt some rehjctauce in vieldiuii* her conr.ent : she however found it injpossihle to withstand the earnest en- treaties of her ehihh'en tluit she wouUl aHow Uiem to 1*0, if only for one lunir, that th(\v miglit be able to i^ive their papa a fleseription of what is considered the most fasliionable theatre in New York. Miss Fannv Kemble and her father • lifid recently arrived, and Mere that evenini^ to make tlicir hrst appi'aranee at the Park: to wit- ness their reception wa"5 also ai\ additional in- (iiiccment; and they were highly gratified in beholding the enthusiastic applause so bounti- fully bestowed on their national favourite per- lormers. Henry joined as loudly as his little hands would allow in tin- general burst of af)- probaiiou manifested thrunghoat the house, and could not restrain a tear of gratefid feeling n^ he saw his Ci)untry-peop1e so warndy received. Besides the Park, New York can boast of two oilier pretty little theatres; also an Italian il.^ if ! '^ I ■ ■ I t ^ i. !i! 36 HENRY, OR i' !ii. !h Ml I I, I 'i I i I :, Oj)era Honne, which has been recently built ; hut the Park Theatre at present carries the ])alm as the most fashionable and best attended: it is near the size of our Haymarket Tlieatre, but badly fitted up. As tliey were retnrnini^ to their boarding- ]»ou*^e, Henry expressed his astonishment at the innnense number of Hotels, which were distin- guished by the numerous lights dis])layed in the various apartments. " And what is n)ost gratifying to the proprie- tors," said Mr. Pelham, " Ihese numerous Hotel> are generally all filled: you must remember that New York is a city with txvo hundred thou- sand {)opulation, carrying on an extensive traflir with the whole world. The number of strangers that annuailv vi5.it the eitv from everv cpiarter oi the globe is immense. 'I'he liotel which you are now passing is the City Hotel, and makes up no less a number than two hundred beds. The Mansion-House is also another excellent t.'sta- blishment, affording good accommodation, in- cluding board, for two dollars each person per day. There are several others in the citv of e(pnil note and rcspectiibility." America certainly deserves every encomium for the imj)ro\ ement and extraordinary advances a very;few years have made in her country, which ^^ 1 1 THE JUVKN'U.r. TRAVKLLKR. 37 may now be coiij^idcied one of the most lluurisli- ini; in tl>e u-or!fl. All further remark was here interrupted by their arrival at Mrs. llussack's, and Jlenry vjjukini,'" Ids friend very vvarml>' by the hand wished him a good nii,'ht, and retired to bib cliauiber. In aecordance with an eni;ai,'ement between .\]r. Pelham and our htlh? lu ro. they both rose cuiy on the foUowing- morning, in order to visit tlie princi|)al fruit and vegetable markets, a\ hich uri' 'scarcely inferior to those of (>ovent (iarden, 'M'inir admirably su|)[)lied with fruits and vege- tai>k's of every description, and at an 'jxeeedingly clicuj) rate. Henry purchased some fine peaches of exfpiisite flavour, and larger than any be had e\er seen in England, ten for sixpence ; apples :ind other fruits e([uaily line and e(jually chea]). I*ine-a{)ples and all ^^'est India fruits were like- wise nnich cheaper than in England. After t.'iking a survey of the markets, they proceeded to visit the ditierent m barfs, \\hjch even at that early hour indicated that active spirit of com- tiiereial enterprise so peculiar to New York : the busJlc and confusion attending the arrival and departure of the various steam-boats, inde{)en- (knt of otber shipping, brought nuiltitudes of persons to the spot, and pr'jduced at once u scene ;i ve. You would doubtless think that per- «oii ill bred, wlio, as a strani^cr, would visit Eni^land, and unscrui)nlously depreciate the ge- neral mannerh of tlie people, judi^ing solely by (lic iudiscrimiruvte individuals whuiii chance luii^ht throw in their way in a stai5"e-coach, an iioUl, or at a public exhibition." Jicnri/.—^' 1 bow submissively to your remark, sir, and have no doubt but that there are as well- '.(lucated and refined people in America as in any part of the globe; but it is that indepen- (lerice of nuumer and indiscriminate familiaritv which I have ob'jervcd to exist between the lower and higher orders of society, of which I complain, and wliich 1 cannot imagine to be productive of good to either party ; for tliere is a charm in politeness that engenders good -will, and never 'ails to raise in our estimation the hiunblest in- dividual ; \\h\\c that prying curiosity, and that total omission of respect and ceremony, in tlje conduct of American dependents towards their if 'in 40 HENRY, OR ! o, that, on the eve of his deparlur, while shaking him by the hand, he said, " 1 an; sorry to part with so iiUelligent and agreeable ;. (companion, but you will be highly gratihed with your sail uj) the Hudson. I have observed yui: '1 'f- '4 THE JUVP:NII K TRAVKLLER. 45 • at Mr-, iition ai 1 ,<4Tcat t'a- aiuoiijj^ tlu' 'ulU'iiiaii, ittlo hcr(«: ilopartui \ id, " 1 an; rrocahU' ;. D tilud wit served \v ;ii:c' anxious to t;aiii infonnatioii ; 1 therefore l;eir to present you with an ahriiin;ed sketch of tlic (iiscoverv of liiat riv(>r, i^kwned fi'om the colKction of th^' Xi'w* Voi"K Historical Sucietv, ofAviiicli 1 ann a intJuhcM"; and! h()[)e you will deem the description wortliy a place in your iiot(>-hool\, to ^vhich 1 see vou so often resort." Ihnry expresse i^ratitiidc to the gentleman, who upenini^ a small nioroc<'o c;\m\ handed him the tbllowintr niemoranduni neatlv Ijound in blue ^ilk. We present its contents to our youncf readers, presumini; that, like Henry, they are an.vious to acquire information : — '• John I). Verra/ano, a Florentine, in the ser- \ ivie ot Francis I. of I'^rance, had been entrustelved with one of them to make a voyage for the discovery ot" new countries. This resolution was ado[)te(l In Marcli 1554. Mis fn'st arrival wa'^ on the Aniei'ican coasts of North Carolina and (leorij^ia. Oireetiui^ his course northward, he entered the harbour of the [)resent city of New York. He olman's Island, and which wa> probably the same now called Sijuly 'look, ** On the 12th of Sej.tember, I6U9, Hudson first entered the river of that name, and sail' d up about tw;or leagues. He was met by gre i numbers of the natives, who brought him pr' ^ 'i THE irVEMLE TRAVELLER. 47 scnts of Indian corn, tobacco, beans, and oysters;, ill ahiindance. They bad pipes of yellow copper ill wliic'h tbey smoked, and eartben vessels in •.\liicb tbey dressed tbcir food. From tbe 12tb 10 tlic 22d of Scpt'jmber, Hudson was employed in ascendini^ tlie river : be descri))es it as abound- 11115- witb salmon. In ids passage be was visited liy nuiuy of tbe natives, but always in an amica- ble manner. It is conjectured tbat he sailed up about as far as where now stands tbe town of ! I udsoTi; when deeming" it not prudent to pro- ceed further witb bis vessel, tbe boat was manned and sent up the river as far as tbe spot where the city of Albany now stands. During this i.'xeursion Hudson gave ardent spirits to some of ihe Indians, for tbe purpose of making experi- ments • :» their tempers : be says tijey all became, merry ' ♦ only one completely intoxicated. A UMiiitit .xdl exists tliat a scene of intemperance ()( curred when tbe fu'st ship arrived, doubtless li;iving reference to this event. "'Hudson began to f r following. Hudson did not give his own nain: to the river he discovereil, but called it the CV/v ., River, or the Great Hirer of (he Mountains, '{'{v. a])j)cllation of its discoverer was given to it soon afterwards. " Hudson, in a subse((uent voyage for the Ea>t India Company, became a prey to the mutiny u, his men in the sanie hay which bore his name , he was forcibly put into a boat, with his son, ur. i seven of his crew, who were invalids, and in tlu-^ manncj' inhumanly abandoned. They were ne\ <.; heard o{ more." Henry had been much amused in reading tin intercstlngdescription of the enterprising Hudsi whose untimely fate he det^ply dc[)lored, but sulr he sh(>u!d, after the perusal of the sketch, sail \.\\\ tlie river with feelingL> of increased interest aiii' delight. An early hour the following morning foun 1 Mrs. B. and her party embarking on boar^tLiiicc of 144 miles, \vlucli by steam boat is performed in about tw(4ve lioiirs. The price of fare is three dollars fach person : a separate charcfe of a quarter dollar for breakfast, and half a dollar for dinner, exclu- sive of wine. They sto]) at the principal villages oil the river for rhe i)urposc of lamling and re- ceiving passengers. Henry was surprised to see at least five hundred persons on board, many of whom were English traveller'^ or emigrants on tlieir route towards a settlement in Canada; and others American families, tpiitting for the hot season the ])0|)ulous cities to seek a more salu- brious air in the fanjed Saratoga, which is es- teemed the CheitLuhain of the United i>tates. Our little hero jilaced himself as near as pos- sible to Mr. Pelhani, from whom he hoped to gain what information he might re(piii-e of the places through wliich tl»ey might pass, for he liud heard that there were many interesting his- torical evei'ts connected with the passage up tlie fjudson Hiver, Nor was he disappointed: hi> friend soon roused his attention from the bustle of \\\ii boat to the grand and varied scenery by wliich they were surrounded. On tl»e point at ihc moutli of the Hudson or North River is Powle's Flook, on whicli stand s a ^Iuull town in New Jersey, called Jersey city D I I 1 ^ ! i 50 IIENRV, OR • ill Iji r, flic village of Hobokcn is seen about a mile up the river, beyond which the hills of Weehawken ajtpear at a distance oi about three miles. As they advanced, Mr. Pelham observed to his little attentive jompunion, that that was the plaCv where General Hamilton, whose monument he liad seen in Trinity Church, fell in a duel with Colonel Burr. It is a retired spot on the margin of the rivtr, with huge rocks on each side, so as to etFectiially exclude it from public view, except from the water, which is its only way of access, consequently it has been chosen as an appropiate place for settling affairs of honour, among the gentlemen of New" York, and it is to be lamented that some valuable lives have here been rashly terminated, plunging into intense sorrow and affliction many amiable and respectable families, The Hudson presents to the tourist a variety of natural scenery seldom to be met with in a journey of the same extent : the contrast is bold and striking; sometimes romantic, singu- lar, and pictnresijue. On one side we behold extensive lawns, interspersed with the abodes of husbandry, and glowing in all the rich verdure of summer beauty ; on the other we see summits crowned with forests, ap{>arentiy impenetrablr to the footsteps of cultivation. This, as w'e sail along, is quickly trans(\;rred to the decliniij;.; '^ 4. 1 ' TIIK JUVENILK I RA\ ELLER. 51 mile up •huwkeu los. As his little he place iinent ho uel with e margin idc, so as w, except of access, ppropiate Liiong tlio lamented en rashiy yri'ow aiu! families, a variety with in a ontrast is ,ic, singu- ivc behold abodes ot • h verdure e .^ummits B)enetrabl* as we sail decliniji;^ \\c\v of villages or towns, conveying to the eye of the traveller thf^ all powerful charm of novelty. jlenrv's attention was next attracted hv a re- iiiarkable range, of precipices or rocks, which make their first a[)pearance about ten miles from Ne\\ "i'ork, and extend from thence to Tappan, a distance of nearly t^eeutv nnles : thev are from twenty to five lunidred tind fiftv feet in height, '"(»rming alojig the beach a wall of se.lid rock, re, our travellers liad from the steam-boat a di-tinct view of the building, which is principally )f hewn stone, \vorked and constructed by the i)risoners. It contains eight hundred solitary cei!>;. 'ihe ])rison discipline consists in cutting Off ail intercourse among tlie con^ icts : they are seijarately lodgerl ; and though they work toge- ther, they are not alhiwed to converse even by •^igMs, therefore can concert no ill designs or id i:i i ( *| III, !: n i ii (Hi I ; 'I : i\ i, 1 I 54 HENUY, (JR contaminate each other. I'he wings of tiic buihUnij^ arc constructed of marble, and contaiti a chapel hirge enouiii'h to accommodate iiiiu hundred ])ei*sons, workshops, hospital, kitchen, and other domestic offices. Tlie wliole is esti- jnated to have cost two hundred thousand dol- lars. Henrv's attention was next attracted bv the Highlands, or Fishkill Mountains; but when informed that thev were associated with some ot the most important events of the revolution, he viewed them with a mixture of admiration am! interest, 'i'heir appearance is certainly singuhir and highly romantic : the river at this point has formed a passage through Uvo ranges of moun- tains, wdiich \vc may imagine have been sepa rated bv some convulsion of nature. Hert llen?7 and his friends were overtaken by a v'o- lent thunder-storm : the grandeur and iwvq ot the scene transcended anv thinir he had evrr be- fore witnessed. He had heard of a Ti-ansathmti: storm, but his imagination could never hav- portrayed a scene so magnificently grand: tli • thunder rolled witli lengthened peal>, vibratituj solemnly tlirough the range ot mountains, (whici! are from twenty to five hundred and sixty tect in height,) ilescending with an ecljo that seemed to make the boat tremble on the bosom of tiie river^ now unusually calm j while the vi\idanti THE JTJVKMf.R FUAVELLKR. 55 inc^.-s^ant Ihisbcs of forked lii,nitiiinc^ illaniinecl the dense clouds tluU were liovering- over the vessel, threatening to eng'uli)h it in a dehii^'e ot darkness ko f(»uyht and blod . Now, alas ! for I'oland's glory, Gallant Kosciusko 's dead.' /'. W. iV. Bayley. ^J'liis brave man }iad chosen West Point for hi> place oC residence while in America: perliaps he could not have found a mo!*e suitable retreat from the cares of the great world, or one better adapted as an asylum to a disappointed mind. The remains of a garden cultivated by his han(l are still to be seen, though now in a state ol neglect; the marks of former cidtivation an- however visible, in the tasteful arrangement ol trees and rejnilarity i)f ilie walks. Wit!) a silent and somewhat nn^lanchoiy steji Henry (piitted ;? spot which associatetl Itself so int«.'resting"Iy with th(M'liaracter ol' an officer, whom he liad heard so loudly extolled and lamented by the friend- ni)t only of Poland, but of freedom in geucral. THE .JIVKMLE TRAVELLER. 59 Mr. Pelliaiii next pointed out to Henry a house on the east side of the river uliich had fornierlv m heen the head (juarters of General Arnold, and other officers wiio were at different times in- vested with the command of this important part of the conntrv. "It was tiiere," continued that gentleman, " that Arnold made the proposal of surrendering West Point, and the forces under his command, to th(* J^ritish army. This event took place in I78O. The English at that i)eriod were in j)ossession ui tht- Hudson river, as far up as what are called tiie Highlands. 'J'o edect the design it was arranged that a council should he held, and Major Andre was sent in the night fronj the sloop of war Vulture, which was 1} ing in Haverstraw Bay, to a spot which had heen appointed for the conference. A person of (he name of Sinith was dispatched by Arnold on )}oard the Vulture, under the false pretext of negociating an honourable treaty with dreat Britain, but in fact solel) to accomjj'iny Major Andre to the spot of rendezvous ; the dawn ot vas to retire to Smith's house, and change his dress for a disguise which had been {)rovided for him : General Arnold had also pro- 1 y i V, m t hi: , V: U ii i i ^i !. 5, •1 1 1 t .' i i 1 '■ i 11 60 HENRY, OR vidcd liirn with a pass under the iiaino of John Anderson. lie remained concealed thronghout the day, but on the following evening set out on his project, accompanied by Smith us a guide : they had parted company but a sliort time, when Andre was accosted by two men, who, stepping forward, seized the bridle of his horse, demanding at the same moment mIumt he was bound ? Supposing they ^\ere EngH>)i, the Major did not immediately show his passpv>rt, but waving their question, infpiircd to where they belonged ? They replied, " To below;" referring to the course of the river, which he misunderstood, artd conceived that ihey were of the British party. " And so am I," said Andre, at t)ie same time informing them that he Nvas an English olhcer, proceeding on urgent business, and must not be detained. " You then belong to onr «>neniv," exclaimed the men, '' and we arrest }ou." Paralized with astonishment, Major Andre now presented h-^ passport, which, unhapj)ily for him, only ren- dered his case tlie more suspicif/ns. lie then offered them his j)urse, his watch, his liorse ; in short, ^vhat(^ver they might deniand, if they woidd suffer liim to pass. They were, howevei-, though poor, l)eyond bribery : searching him, they f«)und in his boots, j)apei's whicli too latally confirmed their suspicions : iidlexiblc to their pui'pose, John hout it on I'uK.' ; when )ping luling iukI r id iiot ;• their 'I'hoy irse ol Cfivcd nniiig I. liinrd with I h'> reii- thou sc ; in uouM huiigii t'ound lirnied ii-pusc, 10( i'( THE JI'VKNILE TUAVKI.I>:a. (il tiiey conchicted him as a prisoner to Colojiel Jameson, a militia oflTicor, cunjmandini^ the {' a jitiiied from the summit of ])r(;'^[)eritv to see ill n i I I I tl 62 HENRY, OR all the sanguine expectations of his ambition de- stroyed, and himself ruined !" Mr. Pelliam observed the tear of synjpathy trickle down the cheek of Ins young auditor, who with minute attention had been listenini^ to the alfectini^ narrative. After the pause of a moment, in which Henry seemed to be strua;"- i^linij with suppressed emotion, he emphatically said, " And did his country use no efforts to save him?" il/r. Pt'lham. — " Every possible exertion was made on the })art of Sir Henry C'linton in his fevour; but it Mas deenied important, for the sake of examjde, tliat the decision of the military board should be carried into execution." When apprized of the sentence that had been l)assed on him, he made an appeal by letter to Genera) VV'asijington, intreating that he might be shot rather than die on a j^ibbet; and this re- (piest would untloubiedly have been granted, had the general's duty to his ccjuntry permitted it. His warmest sympathies were excited, and had himself only been concerned. Major Andi'e would have been saved ; but it was necessary to consult his officers upon the ])roj)riety of accor sol- dier, having" distinguished himself nobly in thii profession he had chosen. At Quebec, on Lake Champlain, and at Saratoga, he hjid gained the applause of his country ; and in the year IJ/O he bore an hout)urable testinionial of his attachment to his country in the wounds he had received in her defence. After the event which led to the melancholy fate of poor Andre, he escaped to New York, and died in London in 1801." Henry, who had listened very attentively to the narrative, now warndy thanked his friend, and hastened to join his sister, who was busily employed in sketching >ome of the beautiful views by vvdiich West I'oint is so bountifully surrounded. : « i • 1 ' ...i^t. XI 64 HENRV, OR Iti ii; 1 ■ :. w} '■ ..1 ■ i - 1 ■vk CHAPTI'R VIM. Quid'n/;/ JVi'st Pni)it.— FlshkUI Mount aim. — Povyli kccjj.s le. — Hi/dc Park. — Ca t skill. — Pine Orchard^ cvc. ()\ leaving" West Point, the first ()l)ject thai at- tracted Henry's attention was the pretty town of Ncwburg, which stands on the declivity of a hill sloping- beautiful iy to the shore. Haifa mile soutli of this town is a large stone house, for- merly the head-(pia! tors of (jeneral Washington : from this place begins the stage-coach road, leading from the river to Ithaca. '' And now, " said Mr. l*elham, " observe, niv dear Hcnrv, the Fishkill iMunntains make their appearance, the summit called North and South Beacons, wliich rise opposite Newbiu'g, at about a distance of four miles, conunanding a grand view over the surrounding country ; from liiat point, land may be seen in seven ditlerent states, and many pretty villages en\beHished by the tinest cultivation, as well as rivers, arc included in the view. We THE .jrvp:Nri.K traveller. 65 at- u of i)t' a nilo for- on : oail, the the jich of tbc iiuiy etty , as We will now, liowoycr," c<^ntiTiiiC(l that i,a'ntleman, '• withdraw our attention for a few moments from the beauties of nature, that 1 may point out to \ou an object of commercial interest : near the river, anil directly opposite to Newhurii;, stands the Mattea^van Factory, which was commenced building in 1814, and now affords daily em[)lo} nuTit to upward:^ of three hundred persons; from a thousand to fifteen hundri d yards of cotton, priiici[jally g'inijjhams, arc ma- nufactured every day. I wish your mamma's arrana^ements would allow us to delay our jour- nev for a few hours, in order to visit the maiui- factory : 1 think vou would be Ln-atified in seeinjif the works, and the extensive machine-shops con- nected with it." ^^ If we were not so anxious to sec our dear papa," replied Henry, " I would intercede with ma/nma to devote a few days to visitiuir some of those beautifi ' ipoi ag< with which the.' Hudson abounds; but as we ap- proach nearer the goal of our haj>piness, our impatience becomes more imperative ; and were it not for the enchantinir scenery, combined with repeated objects of interest by which wv are surrounded, 1 believe tl\at the velocitv of vour steam-lioals could not keep pace with our anxiety to reach our journev's end." Mr. I'eliiam smiled his aj)probation to senti- ; i ! \> |l i \ •,..i 1 \ „*k-.. V 1 I, 0() HENRV, OR if N If. !i meuts of filial affection so properly expressed ; and sbakint^ his little friend warmly by the hand, said, '* I have nut a sentence to offer in opposi- tion to your ari(unient; but we will make the best use of oar time as we pass along^. Now we are approachiuir Pout^ldveepsie. ' This village is about the same size as the little town of New- burg, beautifully situated, and a place of consi- derable trade : it is laid out in the form of a cross : a road leads do^vn a steep hill from the village to the landing on tlie Hudson, where they Avere detained for about twenty minutes, taking in wood for the supply of the fire-engine. The next place at which they stopped on the oast side of the river was Hyde Park, which name sounded so fanjiliarly pleasant to Henry's cars, that he innnediately crossed over to that side of the boat which would give him the best view of a j)lace the name of which brought to his mind so many agreeable associations. '^ This," said Mr. Pelham, " has been chosen, and I think with considerable judgment, as a favourite spot by the Uuiu monde of the state of New York, many of whom have selected it as an eligibk? situation for tlieir country seats. Dr. Hossock, a celebrated physician of New York, has a de- lightful residence and grounds here ; *hidge Pen- dleton, Mr. Wilkes, and several others, have also \i-^ 4L- . THR JUVKNILE TRAVKLf-KR. 67 liiml, ipusi- e the \v we New- cousi- 1 of H m the where inutes, .'iigine. ou ttie whicli henry's to tiiut he best il to hi? 1 his, 1 think ite spot Y York, cUgihle ossock, as a cle- ge Pen- ave al^^o very pretty places on or near the spot. A few miles I'urther on are the noble mansions of J. R. Livingston and Mr. Katcliff; at a short distance from which are those of the late Lord Livingston and of the late Chancellor Livingston. An incident in the life of that gentleman, when Secretary of wState at Washington, is worthy of record, as alVording an annabh' illn>tration oi his disposition. His labonrs, connected in the compilation of his code, ^vere for many years unwearied and assiduous : they were far ad- vanced, when Ills whole papers were destroyed by fire. This hap|)ened at ten o'clock at night ; and at seven on the following morning, with vni- broken spirit and undiminished perseverance, lie began his task afresli !" Henri/. — " I remember having read that a similar incident occurred to Sir L Newton; but tJiose are not ordinary characters ; few are en- dowed with /uch buoyancy of spirit, or sucli in- defatigable perseverance ; they afford, however, an example worthy of imitation." 'ilie boat now stopped to hnid some j)assengers at Catskill, ii village in the immediate neighbourhood of the mountains of that name, which are seen for many miles along the Hudson, and here assume a suhlimitv and n'randeur that can hardiv be ex. celled : the highest elevation of tbis nebie range m i ' \ j i !!' II 1 I I •Til, 68 HENUy, OR ^ at' .1 of iijuuntains is from tic^lit to ten miles distant from the river ; that called the Ronrul Top is upwards of three thousand eic^ht liinidred feet hig-h, and Hiyh Peak npwards of three thousand seven iiundred feet in height. This village, which was formerly of little note, is now, bv its attractive scenery, become a place of fashionable resort. Hcunj. — ^" An excursi(jn to the summit of these UK^iintains nnist l)e very delightful, and might, 1 tliink, be very properly ranked among the prin- cipal objects in a tour through the States." JMt\ Pidhum. — " Manv tourists have agreed in the satne opinion : it is an excursion that can be accoujplished in one day, though two or three may be very profitjd^ly and agreeably passed in leisurely examining the wild and majestic scenery it commands. There is a large and conunodious house of entertainment erected at the Phiv Or- chard^ one of tlie peaks of the mountains, three thousand feet above the river, the ascent to which spot is performed without danger or fatigue in a private cari'iage, or in the public stage-coach which goes thence, and returns during the sum- mer, twice a-day to the village of Catskill." Hmry. — '* Fray give mv. a further description of the Pine Orchard : it must command an exten- sive and beautiful view." THE jrVENIf.F, III AVELLER. C9 Mr Pclhinn. — " A luoro dclijulitfiil sj)()t in j)oint of imert'stini: lan«I>caj)c can be hardly conceived; it is a small plain on iht^ snnnnit of the niuuntain, scatt'Mcd with forest- trees of cverv divcrsitv of foliaq-e, allbrding- an ac;reeabl( shelter from the rays of the summer snn. TIjc Hudsori river is seen ^raeefnlly w indini^ from afar through rock and valley : its margin adorned with towns and villaices, interspersed w ith cultivated lands and vecrctation : its broad smootli surface c! livened ;-> NV ith \essels of various dese)i[)tions. A short distance from the hotel are the Kmtirski/l Falls^ which take their name froju the stream on which tliey are situated. This stream rises from two small lakes near the liot(>l, in a westerly course of, pn a projection of the rock are seen to pinnace with reiiovatcd force down a precipice of nearly ninety foet more, producini^ a i^rand and impo.-«ing efVoct. The road to this roujantic spot is excecdir»gly rough ;uid uneven, yet it does not deter the enthusiastic traveller from visiting a scene fraught with so much to excite admiration, and delight the njind." The boat now stopjied to land some and take in other passengers at a village called Athens, five miles above Catskill : this is a place of little 1 i ^ 1p I r 70 IlENHYj OR i • < il ;H: u note, j)r()bably from tljc circumstance of beiiiij^ situated diiectly opposite to Hudson, a town of considerable conmiercial importance, in a(Jdition to its classical name ; it is, however, a pleasant spot, and can boast of some very pretty cottages and good private houses, and contains, probably, a thousand inhabitants. Hudson is a rich and j)opulous town, abounding \vi{h mills and ma- nufactories. " We are now," said Mr. Pelham, ** making rapid strides towards Albany, the capital of the state of New York ; and althougl) wo have yet three or four more pretty villages to pass through before we quit the river, they are of very minor consideration in comparison to Albany, which, in point of wealth, poj)ulation, and commerce, may be considered one of the first cities in the States." The bell on board at this moment rang to an- nomice to tlie passengers tliat they were near the close of their journey, and to warn them to look after their luggage — a very necessary precaution on board of a steam- boat ; for it is no unfrcquent occurrence for a pers(jn to find, at the end of his trip, that some (joodiiatnred fellow has marched off with his portmanteau, unless he has had the good sense to look out for it himself, the pro- prietors of the steam-boats being free from all TIIK .irVKMLK TRWEr.I.ER. 71 re>j)oii.^c. 11 ! 19! I 4 Albany, as avc liave jilroiuly stilted, is tliu capital of the state of Xew York. The first appearance of this city, upon leavinij^ the boat, docs not con- vey to the stram:^c'r any thing very pr('[)ossessing'; still the taste disj)layed in the c«.>n>truction of its iblic buildi ■th it din of il tiinierc intercourse mIucIi assails tlie ear of the traveller — • the termination of the Grand Erie Cjuial at this j)lare — its coiuiexion svilh the rail road to Sche nectad) — and many other atten^lant circum- stances, such as the* constant arrival and depar- ture of steam and canal i)oats, stage coac!ie>, iScc. render Albanv no less attractive to the tourist than an important and interesting city. The to\Mi is ilivided into five wards^ and contains some good substantial buildings: the principal streets are extensive and wide, and contain many Tin-: JUVENILE TRAVELLKU. State of nil.— The excellent stores or sliops, as well as some liaiul- soiuc private hi>UfiC!!. The Capitol, or State-House, is a lari,'e stone buildini,' 'situated on an v'lcvation at the head of State-Street . it eontains the Assembly and Se- uate Chambers, the Suj)renie Court, the Connty CoinM, he. In the Senate Chamber are some fine portraits: one of the most vahiable is that ofColumhiis. coj)ied from an orii^inal in 1592. From the cn}tol;i at tiK' top of this huildini,^, Mr. r^elhani pointed «jut to Hrnrv a view of Grceul/u.^h, situated on tlie o[>posite side of the river. This s{)ot is interestinu^, as the first point oi importance eonnected w ith the colonial wars ai^ainst Canada: it \va> here that the troops supplied by the Eastern Colonies used to meet those of New York, and from hence proceeded, (uider commanders appointed by the British i^^o- A'ernment, ai^alnst their enemies in the Nortli, rormerlv. the in[laI)i^ant^> of Albanv were nearly all Dutch, or of Dutch «'\trac(ion : it is stated to have had tlien the character of beiui,^ an unso- ciable place; but it is now inhabited by people from all parts of the worhl, and abounds with hcKspitality and kind tVu'lini^. Heiu'v, who had been attentively listening to the above remarks, said, " I do not think that I diould like so well to reside in Albany as iu New .1 I 5! s •'I il ) \i 74 JIENRV, OR York ; as a inercliant or tradesiiiaii, howevoi , IDV opinion ruiglit widely difier." Mr, Pclham. — •' Yoii liave vet seen so little ol tiiC city, my di*ar boy, that yoti cannot judi^c o< its advantages ; but we will prevail on your mamma to rest here to-morrow, in order thai you and your lister may visit the prii»cipai ob- jects In the town and its environs. We will now return to our bote 1 to take our tea;" ^vhich they did at the lahle d'hofe, laid out for aboiit fifty persons in the usual A'uerican style. Plenty of beef-steaks, i^ood in their kind, but badly dressed, broiled chicken?, hpui and esrgs, dried fish, cakes of all sorts and sizes, sweetmeats, maph suc^ar, ] /reserves and honey, with indifferent tea and bad coffee, f )rined the principal ingredients of this substantial meal. Henry and his party, Jio\eever, enjoyed it very much, probably more than their comjianions, for they remained coti- siderably longe" at tlie table, not having yei attaini.'d the art of eating with the rapidity of the /Vniericans. They afterwards returned to the sit- ting-room, in which were assem))led several guests, some waiting for the steam-boats, others the morning-coaches, &c. Among the number werr many well-dressed lady-like looking women, and some ni(m of very common aiipearance. Henry's surprise was great, as he observed several of the i «',. THE JIIVENILK TKAVKL[.Ea = 75 tever, [tie o1 I vour ■r thai lal oU- ill now ;li tlu y lit fifty cntv ot Iressed, 'd fi>^l»- inapU ont tea cdieuts party, V more d coti- ng yei of the the sit- giiests, 'i-s tbe fcr wen' Vn, and Lenry'> of till latter lounging on cliairs, witli tlieir feet rcsti >g on the seats of other:?, j)ufting away their cigars, perfectly unconcerned as to the annoyance which a room enveloped in a cloud of smoke must be to the ladies. A blush, very like indignation, mounted his cheek, from a cunscioasncss that his mother and sister would sutler from so un- plcasjint an effluvia. Turning hastily round, he inquired of Mr. Pelham if it were customary in America for gentlemen to indulge in smoking, when in the presence of gentlewomen : '' in- deed,' continued he, '• from the appearance of these people, I think they ought not to intrude themselves into the society of ladies." " You sec in these men," said Mr. Pelham, " the consequence of equality : their rudeness disgusts and annoys me, yet I dare not say a word ; you may he assured, however, that these oirensivc practices do not exist in good society in America any more than in any other part of the world.*' Henry, — *' It is that sort of vulgar indepen- dence which I imagine has given rise to so mucli censure on the manners of the Americans : they are liabits, however, that time will, no doubt, correct." The conversation was now interrupted by a summons to Henry from his mamma, warn- ing liiia that it was time to retire : they were 't ^1 11 in 1! T •! I i 76 HENRY, OR fc-l fi' s U ' # ; ' sliown to tljoir chamber by a ijood honest Irish tfiii, a(!ti !»£!;• in the capacity of chatnber-niaid, who troublo(i thcin with none of those fjuestions so comnioii to American servant-^ ; but probably judj^ing from tlieir appearance that they were exotics, and just imported from tlie Old World, she showed them a great rleal of civility, and seemed quite surprised when, on the following morning, Mrs. B. thatd\ed her for her attentions, and handed her a quarter of a dollar. We after- wards learnt that it is not customary in the United States for iravellers to pay either waiters, ehjunber-maidsj or shoe-blacks — an improve- ment, we nuist confess, upon our home custom. On the succeeding morning, after partaking • ^* an excellent breakfast at the table d'/io/e, for which they paid a quarter dollar each, the party, at the suggestion of the ladies, proceeded to visit the extensive Nursery and Horticultural Gardens, under the superintendence of Messrs. Buck and Wilson. These grounds are said to cover up- wards of twelve acres of land, jjroducing not only I he choicest fruits of the country, but also the bner varieties of England, Germany, and France. Attached to this superb iind enterprising esta- blislmientis an extensive green-house, containing a variety of the i\iost rare and choice Asiatic plants, autl other exotics. All who have Visited THE JUVENILE Ttt WELLER. 77 vl: this beautiful s-pot must feci that the hii^hest en- comium is due to the enteri)ri.««in,i^ proprietors. Henry and his sister were highly (h?Hghte(l, and woukl willingly hnve ])assed the whoh^ morniui; m the i^ardens, had not INIr. Pelham infcu'iued them that lie had eni^ai^ed a eari-iag^c for the j)ur])ose of taking thetii U)V a drive to Xiskannna, the Shakers' settlt:n)ent, about eiulit miles from Albany. " A visit to these sirigular people," he continue*], '* will be well wurtli tbe delav of a few h()ur-*< , though 1 i\o n<»t by any means say that vou will bt; :is much i)leased as vou have been with Mr. Buck's botanic garden; on the contrary, I think you will be shocked and dis- gusted by some of (heir ab?urdities3 yet there is much to admire in their industry, ingenuity, or- der, frugality, and temperance. Tbe pcrfectloji to which they have brought these virtues may, perhaps, be traced with propriety to the founder of their sect, who, ttiough one of the wildest fanatics, proved that she understood fhe intrinsic machine of the humau kind, when sbe pro- nounced ' that temporal pros|)(Mity wns the inle in possession of the true light : the mar- riage-contract is dissolved upon joining their comnuinity ; all private property, whether of large or small amount, is thrown into one com- mon stock, and they profess to banish the love of ambition, wealth, and luxury of all descrip- tion, from their territories j they cultivate farms, which they divide among them j the men follow their different trades, and the women pursue the more domestic occupations, with knitting, weav- ing, spinning, &c. ; the men and women take tlieir meals se])arately, and neither of them will set down with what they call the * World's people.' The females wear grey gowns, with white caps, as plainly made a?^ possible ; while the men fire dressed in quaver-drab, perfectly plain, with broad- brinunelaced in possession of a considerable portion of the land contiguous to the Mohawk country : this enterprising youth immediately commenced learning the Mohawk language. Being intrusted with talents, he discovered an ind( fatigable industry to improve them, by cul- tivating Ilia tmimproved wild lands into rich and well-planned farms i afl'ording in himself an example of almost unparalleled industry, and by his instruction and liberality indticiiig many fa- milies to settle near him, many of wlioin he raised from circumstances mean and low to flourishing and happy. But in(lep(;i>dent of the attention he devoted to agricultural pursuits, h'' also traded largely as a merchant with his Indian neighboiu's, who went every spring from dif- ftrent parts of the vStates to Oswego, where the Indians from distant parts of the country assem- bled, and bartered beaver and other skins for European goods; the latter, the principal traders used to take from Mr. Johnson's store on credit^ '*: ■"••*•— 1»****^ - THK JU\ KNIf.E TRAVKLLER. 83 \ !'' kllati dif- the feni- for (lers 'dit^ as they passed by his dour in their canoes up the Mohawk river, on their way to Oswego, Their custom was to pay for them, on their return the etisiiins^ Tall, with skin:* they ijave in excliange ; and his declining tra(.le, conbidcrinir the advan- tages of our Indian commerce, which he so greatly contributed to support, miglit have been deplored, had not tlie good of Ids country called him to act in a nobler sphere ; for which his extensive (pia- lihcations tfiroughout the whole series of his conduct evinces the wisdom ol his designation, and gained his country's) praise. The extent of his commerce with the Indians afforded lum the most ample proof of the importance of their friendship witli the English; and his mild, faith- ful, and friendly behaviour towards them, com- hined with his general character, gave him the greatest power and influence with them. Hi.s house was advantageously situatctl on a spot about thirty miles distant from Albany, by land, but much farther b) water, in a place where nature seemed to have afforded it a kind of de- fence ; to which some addition was afterwards made by art, and therefore justly called Fort Johnson. For many years this excellent man was Colonel of Militia in the county of Albany, and was afterwards appointed one of his Majesty's Honourable Privy Council of the province of '!; \U • \ T i ^^ Vl /: ^ '/ # IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I U£|2£ 12.5 £ us 112.0 1.8 1125 11.4 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation // ^ -<^^ 33 WEST MAIN STREIT WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 i \ I S4 HKNRY, OR New York, and subsequently raised to the rank of Major-Geueral of the Forces. He greatly distintruished himself at the battle of Lake George, in 17^5, on which occasion he was cre- ated a baronet, and died much regretted in 1774. vSome branches of his family are still residing in Canada." \ 11 '' thp: juvknile traveller. 85 CHAPTER X. Departure from Ai/jany.—-Troij. — Canal Tow- Boa/:, ^r. After partaking of an excellent breakfast on the following nu)rning, the party proceederl in a stage-coach to Troy, which, as tlie distance was only six miles, and the roads excellent, they reached in a short time : it is a neat, pretty town ; the stones are very good, and tlie houses convey to the mind a conviction of their conve- nience and comfort. Troy is pleasantly situated on the river Hudson, with a range of fine hills in the back gnmnd, the most prominent of which has received the classic appellation of Mount Ida, to correspond with that of tlie place. Mrs. B. and her party were set down at the City Hotel, and upon inquiry found that the roads from thence to Whitehall were ifi a la- mentable condition : this intelligence they gainer' from an English gentlemnii, who was congratu- lating himself upon having survived their dan- i , 86 HENRY, OR ■ < ',! 1 ! gers ; for he bad been travelling all night, as he stated, at the risk of breaking his neck, in order to be at New York in time for the first of the month packet to London. This gentleman re- commended that, as they were a party, and had a great deal of luggage, instead of " .shaj)ing their course by land," they should take a passage by the Canal tow-boat, as a more commodious and safer way of proceeding, though not quite so rapid; for instead of reaching Whitehall by ten o'clock in the evening, they would sleep on board the boat, and arrive at that place at six on the following morning, just in time to embark on board the Lake Champiain Franklin steam- boat, which would convey them to Canada, — a distance from Wiutehall of lt>0 miles. Mrs. B. was obliged to her countryman for the sugges- tion ; but before deciding on their plans, the party proceeded on board the canal- boat, in order to see the accommodation, which they found su- perior to any thing tliey had anticipated. For the gratification of our young readers, who at a future day may be making the same tour, and perliaps under similar circumstances, we will give a description of the canal tow-boat from Troy to Whitehall : — " The boat is about seventy feet in length, the greatest part of which forms the cabin or dining-room : along each side are ' THE JUVENILE TRAVELLER. 87 I, B. ges- the del* su- For ut a and will rom ^nty rms arc lockers, which answer the purpose of seats by Uiiy, and contain the bed and bedding, whicli is spread upon them at night, and form sleeping- booths for the gentlemen -passengers. Wlien the boat is pretty full, a sort of shelf is suspended over the lockers, which, with a mattress, forms a second bed, and is removed in the morning. The ladies' cabin is separated from the gentle- men's by a thick damask curtain, and is neatly furnished with carpeting, looking-glasses, &c. : the bedding is on the same plan, strictly neat and clean ; and perhaps a greater regard to comfort is observed in their accommodation than to that of the gentlemen, who are supposed to be better able to endure a little temporary inconvenience than the softer sex. There appeared, however, one objection to this mode of travelling, whicli was the probability of being crammed up at night in a confined cabin, with perhaps a number of very disagreeable companions : in the day it would be of little importance, as the window would afford a free circulation of air) and the deck, small as it is, is free for the accommoda- tion of such passengers as choose to occupy it. After a few moments' consideration the obstacles diminished, and appeared like grains of sand in the wilderness, when compared with the disa- greeableuess of twelve hours' hard bumping in an 1 if li' •fM! 88 HENRY, OH 1 i » American stai,'e aloni,^ one of the \vor«t roads that nature ever formocl, and at each step threaten- ing the annihilation of every bone in your skhi, and the destruction of every nerve that is not cased in iron." The party therefore decided — upon what ? npon choosing- the lesser of the two evils, and engaged their passage in the North America Canal packet-boat, commanded by a Captain Hicks, a very civil and obliging person : the boat Mas to leave the bason in about two hours, which afforded them just time to return 10 their hotel, despatch their luggage to the boat, and take a glance at a few of the Vifms at Troy, Avith which they were so well pleased, that Mrs, B. booked it for another visit, when an opportunity might olfer. The buildings of this city are chiefly of brick : it contains three banks, seven churches, a coiu'thouse, jail, and market. The Episcopal Church is a fine specimen of Ciothic architecture : it has a venerable appear- ance, and if enveloped in ivy would remind one of some of those ancient abbeys so often to be met with in the writings of our lamented bard — Sir Walter. At the expense of the corporation of Troy, and greatly to their honour, a large building has been erected for a Female Seminary, which is said to be conducted with great judgment and THE JITVEMLE TRAVELLER. 89 '■ care, affording annually a liberal education to about eii^lity pupil? ; many of whom would in all [)robability remain in iLjnorance, had they not the advantai^es of this institution. IMr. l^elhiim took the children to see the tlour-mill on the south-side of the town, which iliv. miller informeil them would grind fifteen hundred bushels of wheat per day : they then visited the nail manu- factory^ where Jfenry asked niunberless ques- tions concerning the works, and the principal articles of their manufactory. '' I guess, young gentleman," said the foreman, " we makes of red-hot iron every thing from a shingle nail to a ship's spike." , Henry smiled at the blunt reply, but troubled him with no more questi(ms. Mr. Pelhani now reminded the part) that their leave of absence from the boat had expired, and that they must inuiiediately hasten on board. Upcn arriving there they were glad to find very few passengers in the lady's cabin — only two gay-looking American ladies, besides their own party; this Mrs. B. thought unexpected good fortune on their part, as she had now nothing to dread from a crowded close cabin. Upon learn- ing that there was yet half an hour to spare be- fore the boat would be ready to start, Mr. Pelham took Henry to see the Junction of the Champlaiu and Grand Erie Canals, whicL is considered ! } k ' \ 90 ilEN'RY, OR i: if 1 ( worthy the notice and udnnration of travellers: the dam and bason form a noble and expensive Avork, and doubtless are prodiictiNe of the great- est advantage to Troy and its commerce. But Henry confessed, that although perfectly sensi- ble of its intrinsic value, and the undoubted benefit which these canals had proved to the country, yet he was so blind, or so stupid, that lie could not discover any thing remarkable iii their junction, of which he had heard so much. Four strong American horses were now tackled to tlie line of the boat, and a stout lad mounted on the next to the leader : they commenced their passage, travelling at a very tolerable rate. In the distance from Troy to Whitehall they had to pass through eighteen ocks : this atlbrded great amusement to Henry and his sister, who, as they approached each lock, jumped on shore, for the pleasure of seeing the boat rise and fall, as the Avater was let in or out of the dam. Along the banks of the canal the scenery is generally mo- notonous and uninteresting, though in some parts romantic and pretty. One great advantage, how- ever, is derived from a passage in the canal-boat —that of being exempt from the annoyance of dust, which in stage-travelling in this country is painfully disagreeable, the roads being very sandy. This route took them through some t THE Jl SKNJLE TRAVKLI.ER. 91 j)leasant looking villages; VVatcrford u'as the first of any importance, about fourteen miles from which is Still Water, near Berni^s' Heights, pointed out to Henry as the battle-ground of General Burgoyne. The scenery here becomes more interesting to the tourist, as the canal runs near some of the principal American forts. Of the number they saw Fort Miller, Fort Hardy, Fort Ann, and Fort Edward. At the mention of the last named place, one of the American ladies on board, wlio had hitherto been a very silent companion, said, addressing Henry, '^ I guess, as you are a stranger in these parts, you never heard of the murder of Miss M'Crea," which happened near that spot. She then related the particulars, whicfi were of a young lady, who, previous to the revolution, had been betrothed to an officer attached to the British army : the lady resided with her friends at Sandy Hill, a short distance only from Fort Edward, where her lover was stationed. Hostilities commenced, and the young officer, apprehensive for the safety of his mistress, despatched a party oi [ndians to convey her to the fort, where he had made ar- rangements for their immediate nuptials. Some little time elapsed before the young lady could obtain her parents' sanction to what appeared to them fraught with great danger, although " 92 IIENRV, OR » ? I >l^ i they Imd long since ^iven their full approbation to the inarriaire, , after the lapse of a day or two, she bid adieu to hi r friends, and, accompanied by a faithful servant, set out on her latal journey. The young soldier, unconscious of the impedi- ments that ha.t awful depredations: these fears were increased by the non-return of * the Indians, lie determined immediately to despatch a second party ; and most woefully was lie punished for his impatience ! Miss M'Crea and her guides h.-ul reached nearly half way of their journey, when they were met by the second embassy ; and now began a dispute between the Indians who should carry in the prize, and ob- tain the rew\'ird. During this unfortunate con- test, an arrow from a party of American skir- mishers struck the young lady, and she fell from her horse. Horror-stricken at the event, and perceiving that any further delay would be dan- «» J. I". M m: rilK J L^ KM Lie ^UA^■J^LLKR. 93 n *** J, g-tTOUs to tlicinsc'lvcs, tlie (Jhiet'of tlic first party of Indians ilrtw liis toniahaw Jv, uiul striking the yoimc^ lady to tlii' licart, tore off tlie scal[) from lier head, and bore it in triumph to her impa- tient lovor, as a trophy of his fidehty in the execution of his. commission ! The young party shu(hiered at the recital ot so heart-rending an event; and Henry inquired if the Indians completed the barbarous act, by h'av- ing the unfortunate victim on the spot unburie(h The lafly infornjed him tiiat tliey had hastily })laced her under the earth, beneath th«' spread- ing branches of a large tree, where she had fallen; but since that period her remains were disinterred, and consigned to her family-vault, in the chureli-yard ot Sandy T^ill. The steward now annoiuiced dinner to be on table, which was certainly what may be termed a very homely meal — yet quite as good as might be exj)ectcd, cooked on board so small a vessel — roast and boiled meat, vegetables, ham and eggs (as usual), sweet puddings, sauces, &c. with plenty of braiul} , but no wine. Mrs. B. pro- cured for herself and children, however, some excellent lemonade : for this meal the charge is three York shillings, or about one shilling and sixpence sterling each person. At seven o'clock the table was again spread for tea, ^vitb abundance ! / •t !' M: Iff 94 IIBNRY, OR of cake, cold tongues, ham, dried meats, witli various preserves and . « \ ill' Tllh jr VKMLi; TKAVKLLKa. CJfAPTER XI. IVhitehall—Lah' Cham plain. --The IVatcr- Witch Steam-boat . — Arrival at Burlinr/ton. — Depar- ture, t^c. )g- a V I Ij' was on a SuiKlay morninc!' tliat the party ar- rived at Whitrliall ; and as the Lake Clianiplain steam-boats do not ply on that day, they were necessarily detained until the followinj^, which was partieuhirly annoying-, as Wiiitehall happens to l)e any thing but a pleasant place ; for this, however, they were in some degree compen- sated^ by being in a comfortable hotel called the Fhenix; the weather was also in their favour; so that after partaking of a very good breakfast at tlie tahlfi iVlwte, Henry felt cjuite refreshed, and ready to accompany Mr. Pelham in a walk ; for he soon understood, that although the town appeared dull and uninteresting to a stranger, yet its environs commanded some beautiful scenery ; and it being the junction of the Northern Canal with Lake Champlain, there are generally ^ » f 96 HENRY, OR 1 to be seen a variety of small vessels, and fro quenlly immense rafts of floatini( timber; be- sides, it is also the direct road from New York to Chnada, consequently durine^ tlie summer sea- son immense traffic is constantly passing. On the summit of a rock over the harlH)ur was for- merly a battery, every vestige of wliich noA\ a})})ears to have gone to decay : the heights at this place were then occupied by General Bur- goyne's right wing, while he was preparing to march towards Saratoga. 'J'lie town is small, and its a])pearance would indicate that it contains but few respectable inhabitants ; it has, however, a bank in high repute; and a traveller is sur- j)rised to see the number of per'^ons assembled at tlie daily table d'hote at the Phcnix. Here it is, we believe, the fashion for all the gentlemen ot the place to take their meals : whether they be bachelors or not we cannot presume to pro- nounce, but if not, the ladies can have but little trouble in sujjorintending the cooking depart- ment of their domestic duties, and certainly escape a great deal of care and fatigue, while their husbands are well snpplied with excellent faro at the tabic d'hote. The host appears to be a very sedate, worthy, and civil person, fully deserving of public encouragement : he politely offered Mrs. 13, and her party seats in his pew. .1 ■..c m^mmmmm THE JUVENILK TRAVELLER. 97 and fro ber; bt- ^ew York inier soa- ing. Oji wii^ for- lich noM- eights at .*ral Eur- )ariiiir to is small, contains howc\rr, 1* is sur- mbk'd at cro it is, enien of tliov be to pro- )ut little depart - ertuinly • , while xcellcnt rs to be n, fullv politely is pew, if they were disposed to go t(j ehapel ; the favour, however, was declined. On the following morn- ing they engaged their jKissage for the Lake Champlain, on board a small steam-boat called tli(i Water Witch ; the vessel was quite new, but not quite complete : it was her first voyage, which, for the accommodation of passengers, was made rather prematurely, in consequence of some trifling accident having detained for tliat trip the more important regular steam-boat on the Champlain Lake. The Water Witch carries a high pressure engine, which being held in not very hir/h estimation for its safety, our party decided upon not venturing further in her than to Burlington, a distance of seventy-five miles from Wliilehall, and there wait until the following day should bring them a more agreeable conveyance. Lake ('hamplain is a beautiful sheet of water, about 145 miles long, and from five to nine miles broad : those who remember that it^vab the theatre of many memorable events during the war, must look on its scenery with feelings of intense in- terest. Its natural beauties also are many, and command the highest admiration ; there arc several very pretty towns and villages that adorn the shores of the lake, between which are scat- tered farm-houses, cottages, and liiahly-cultivated lands, affording a beautiful contrast with the F '/ 98 HENRV, OR m y 'J, » \ : ! distant nioiintains. Hcnrv became excecdiuirlv interested in tlui descrii)ti()n i*-iven Inm by Mr. Pelliani of the dHfcrent places through which tliey passed ; as they ap[)roached Teeonderaga, that gentleman pointed cut the battlements ot the Fort which lie said first bore the flag ol independence in the States, — a circumstance that .should of itself render the view interesting to the traveller. " Particularly to the Americans^" said Henry, with an aich smile: "however, I should like very much to pay a visit to the Fortress, which 1 suppose has been the scene of many battles." '' At a future period, should an opportunity otfer of visiting this part of the c(^untry," said Mr. Pelham, *' you will lind much to admire, ])articularly on Lake George, which in point of natural* and romantic scenery is perhaps one of the most beautiful spots in the world : it is the favourite route from Canada to Saratoga, whence people, like bees, swarm in the sununer, for the benefit of drinking the waters, which are consi- dered to be very Mdubrious. Lake George, which is an object t)f general attraction to all travellers in this part of the world, is thirty-four miles long, and its extreme breadth not niore than four ; its depth is sixty fathoms : the water is remarkable for its purity and clearness. The THK JUVENILE TUAVELLKR. 99 L^cdiiiirlv 1 by Mr. i uhicli iideraga^ [lents of flag of ncc that lij to the HcMiry, uld like , wiiich ttles." ortimity i^," sairl admire, point of 1 one of is the vheiice for the coiisi- eotjj'e, to all y-four more water The Lake never rises more than two feet: it is a delitrlitful RY, OR cars — " ColoniH, slmll 1 help you to some mut- ton ?'* or " Major, I yuess you have the brandy near you," and so forth : in good truth, both ' colonel and major did ample justice to the cap- tain's hospitality. It was about six in the even- ing when the Water Witch reached Burling- ton, the largest and most important town on Lake Champlain, and very delightfully situated. Before bidding adieu to the worthy captain, and wishing success to the Water Witch, Mrs. B. inquired of the former which was considered to be the best hotel ; it being her intention to re- main there until the following day, and then proceed by a larger boat. An hotel kept by Cady and Doolittle was strongly recommended, and thither they repaired, in a carriage kept by the proprietors of that establishment, for the accom- modation of travellers arriving by the steam- boats. They were conducted to a comfortable private apartment, fitted up more in the English style than any thing they had seen since leaving England : they soon after joined the table d'hote for their tea, and for the first time on their route sat down with only three or fom* in number, beside their own party, though there was suffi- cient on the table to satisfy the hungry appetites of at least thirty persons. As Henry had made but rm indifferent dinner on board the boat,, he :iw»ipmjw«w THE JUYENILK TRAVET.LKR. 103 e mut- brandy I, both le cap- e even- urling- wn on tuated. in, and Irs. B. cred to to re- el then ,y Cady d, and by the ccom- teaiU" 1* table nglish aving now deter niiix^d to loUow tlie example of the American oflicers, and did ample justice to a well-hrolled chicken, finishiiig his repast with a variety oi excellent cakes : it was here that he tirst tasted the Maple sugar, which is very gene- lally use()at>: offer such powerful inducement to trav •Hers, on account of their cheapness and comfort, that very few think of travelling by any otlier conveyance. After enjoying a very pleasant drive for some F 2 106 HENRY, OR K, ■■! i1,i. 'l few miles round the country, our party returned to the hotel in time to i)artake of a i^uod dinner at the ta/jlc cVhote, after which Mr. Pelhani took Henry for a walk round the town : they visited the lihrary, the court-house, and some of the principal stores. As they were walking* leisurely across a sort of common on one side of the town, they were accosted hy a young" man respectahly dressed, who inquired if they would purchase of him some honoy : heing answered in the nega- tive, hv' told them that he had a considerahle quantity of excellent quality to dispose of, and that he would let them have it very cheap, being desirous to raise a few dollars upon a very urgent occasion. Mr. Pelham inquired if he were a single man; he said he was, but that a few dol- lars at that moment would be of the utmost importance to him. The next question was, "Are you out of employment ?'* "Oh, no," he re- plied, " I have constant work, for which 1 am paid fourteen dollars per mouth, with board, lodging, and washing." " Then how is it pos- sible that you can be in want of money?" sternly demanded Mr. Pelham. " P>ecause I have not lialf a dollar in the world," replied the man : " ray employer keeps a store, and my wages are always paid in dry goods, sucli as clothes, &c., 11 THE ..CVKNMI.K TUAVKLf.Kfl. 107 pos- er Illy not tiian : '!^ are but I never reeeivc sixpence of my Wti^e? in c;i>li ; 1 am nou* i,^oin:,^ to i^ct married, therefore a little ready money would bo very desirable." Mr. I'clliani smileti at the idea of a man mar- ryiuir without sixpence in liis pock<^t, and felt halt iju'lined to lemonstrate with him upon what appeared so extremely unwise ; but feeling that hij^elfortsto ronviction wo(dd be futile, he merely desired the nian t(» take a jar of honey to the hotel, which he promised to purchase at the market price. As i!iey Avaked on, Henry inquired if the mofle of payment stipulated by the young man was a general cu>toni in America ? Mr, Pel ham. — " In the United States it is the common mode of payment to mechanics, whose wage.s generally run from ten to twenty dollars per month, perhaps fiye of which they receive in cash, and the remainder in store-goods: the same plan is held good in Canada, where the wages, 1 believe, are not quite so high. You must have observed during oia* route from New York an immense number of Irish lab(mrers : these poor creatures are generally employed in working on the roads and canals; they are paid from twelve to fifteen shillings per week, chiefly in goods, and are supplied with a miserable lodging, with an allowance of wretched whiskey, ' i I4' r ' i I f; 108 HKNRY, OR Tvliicli is manufactured in the country. It is by means of this sh>w hut liutolul poison that for u time thev art able to stand the heat of the suni- mer, although hundreds of ihein die in the sea- soning: it is quite Iieart-rendin^^ at some part of the year to witness their sulVerings: as winter commences, navigation ceases, and their worix with it : for months they are laid up unemployed. and thousands arc then in a state of the most miserable destitution ; and their ill fortune is not dimiiushcd by the dislike which the Americans generally have imbibed against the low Irish. This feeling, I urn sorry to say, exists throughout the Union." Henry. — '* Do you think that our countrymen generally Improve their condition, by emigrating to this country ?" Ml', Pel ham, — " That is a question upou which I find some difficulty to decide : many prosper, and others have had but too much reasou to regret having ever left their native shore ; 1 am afraid, however, that in the United States more emigrants have suftered from disappointment than have had reason to rejoice in the change. Canada, particularly the Upper Province, holds out, I think, stronger inducements for emigration from England than the States. The characteris- tic manners and customs of the people are more iTdnfrrnirtirtiiWii TIIK Jl'VKNILK THAVELIJiR. la) concrenial : tlicvfecl tliomijclves more at lioin<> im- «ler the same i^ovoriitncnt. The clliuatt' is parti- cularly t^ood, the soil prolific, and I helieve tliat wliere iii(lu-*«try, perseverance, ami sobriet) , arc united, succt-i'- ha- seldom failed to re\^ ard labour ; in short, it is tlj(^ poor nian's country; for there he can live, if he can live at all. Tlic tn-eatest bane to their haf)piness is the love of ardent s[)irits, which in Canada are exceedingly cheap, and therefore offer a stroni^ (« ni[)tation to such as are addictcil to tlu; ruinous vice of drunken- ness : hut a man of sober and industrious habits will --eldoin fail to find in Canada a comfortable and respectable subsistence : there, land is cheap, and every facility is offered to emigrants by means of the agents, who are gentlemen of the highest respectability, and never fail to give the most salutary advice to such as are about to settle in their colonies. Emigration lias within the last two years increased to a wonderful degree. Many parts of Canada, whi(;h a few years since were dense woods, apparently impenetrable, now present the most prolific and highly-cultivated lands: townships and villages have sprung up almost like mushrooms from the earth -, canals are formed, mills erected; in fact, improvement of every kind in Canada is progressing wonder- fully. Nor does eniigration consist solely of the •| «r t k< ' i' 110 HENRY, OR farmer, the peasant, and the mechanic : some hundreds of opulent British families are now comfortably domiciled in Canada, by whom, how- ever, the Upper Province is generally held in the highest estimation. Perhaps, on account of its prolific soil and delightful scenery, it is deserving the preference." All further comment on this interesting ^^ub- ject was for the present suspended, by a loud summons from a bell, the usual mode of an- nouncing the arrival of the steam- boat: they hastened to their hotel, and having discharged their account, bade adieu to Messrs. Cady and Doolittle. Tlie coach which had brought them from the Water Witch now conveyed then> to the FrankUn, the most commodious, quiet, and delightful steam-boat they had yet been in. { : : I i . iirifs^fewsiwif 1 IE JUVENILE TRAVELLER. Ill sonic e now 1, how- l in th(.' t of its ?erving g sub- a loud of an- ; : they ■hargcd ily and t them I len) t(> t, and CHAPTER XII. Lake Champlain contimied. — Pluttslmrgh . — Rouse s Poiht. — Steam-bout Franklin. — Isle Aux Noix. — Lower Canada* x\g.\tn the party embark cd on the noble Lake, boasting innumerable islands of every varying form and outline that fancv can iVaiiie. About eighteen mdes nortii of Burlington they [)assed Plattsburgh, a place connected with some im- portant and interesting events, having in the year 1814 been the scene of a land and naval battle. The town or village does not bear any distinguishing marks of opulence, though there is considerable trade and some ^vealth in the place : it is on the banks of a small river called the Savanne, and a line of forts are here erected for its defence. Night, in her sable form, was now approaching, but the moon, which was nearly at the full, rose with great splendour. Henry thought he had never witnessed any thing so splendidly sublime, n 112 HEN II Y, OR V and intrcated that his maiiiina would allow him and his sister to remain, beyond their usual hour of retiring, on deck, which being covered with an awning, Mrs. B. considered there would be no danger from the ilews, and therefore yielded to the request. The wind was lulled : all nature seemed reposing ; the sound of the machinery, and the bubbling of the water, occasioned by the rapidity of the vessel's wheel, were the only innovations to perfect stillness. Almost all the passengers had retired to repose, exce[)t a few who like our party were tempted by the gran- deur of the scene to remain on deck : its subli- mity appeared to inipose a sacred silence, for scarce a breath was heard ; all seemed to be involved in one overwhelming feeling of admira- tion. Tiie moon, unusually bright, aftbrdcd an imposing view of the distant Alleghanic moun- lains, and reflecting its light upon the quiet villages, woods, and cultivated lands that suc- cessively adorn the shores of the Lake as you CfUde aloncr its smooth surface, formed on the; whole one of the most beautiful landscaj)es that the mind can imagine. Wrapped in silent con- templation, Henry remained seated by his mamma and sister, until the " iron-tongue of time told twelve upon the drowsy ear of night ;" at w!iich hour the boat stopped to land passengers at ^1^, THE JUVENILE TRAVELLER. 113 ►w iiini il hour 'd with )ukl be yielded nature liinery, by tiie e only all the t a lew ; grari- subli- cc, for to be (hiiira- dcd ail nioun- quiet lit suc- ,s you \ju th(; js that t con- anitna e told |w!iich Ts at Rouse's Point, the last villaijfe within the boun- dary of the States on Lake Cliamidain. Mere are still to be seen the dilapitated renmins of an old fort, and m hich has formerly been a eastle, built of hewn stone. The country about this place is very level and uninteresting, and so it continues for some miles into Lower Canada: the banks on the River Rich lieu, which we now enter, are low, and the cottai^es occasionally scattered fdonij^ its shores are frecpiently over- flown by the rising of the river ; so that for some months in the year the inhabitants can neither enter nor leave their miserfiblc abodes without a boat or canoe. These dwellings arc usually oc- cupied by poi^r Canadians, who procure a mi- serable subsistence by fishing", or shooting wild fowl, snipe, and pigeons, which are here found in abundance. The river produces the black bass — in our opinion the best fish obtained in this part of Canada : the rock-bass, perch, sun- fish, and eels also, are plentiful arid very fine. The poor creatures who exist in these marshy situations are nuich afflicted ^vith ague and fever J their appearance is squalid and unhealtiiy : themselves and their log-huts certainly bespeak the most abject poverty, yet iliey seem contented in their filth and wretchedness. " We are now, mv dear Henrv," said Mr. Pel- ! i ■' ii i 1 i •I 114 HENRy, OR liam, " making rapid progress toward the Isle Aux Noix, the place of your immediate destina- tion : come with me to the upper deck, and you will soon catch sight of the island, which appears to great advantage from this part of the river. " Our little hero cheerfully obeyed the summons ; hut before quitting the Franklin, we must in justice beg to recommend a passage in her to such of our friends who may travel by way of Lake Champlain from Whitehall to Canada. The boat itself is Rtted up in a very superior manner : its comfort, neatness, and good order_, command universal admiration. It is conducted (juite in a man-of-war style, yet the ca[)tain is a person of pleasing, mild, and aftable mannerr- ; his iniluence with his men is admirable ; a look from him is sutficient command ; the mandate of the Sultan of Delhi could not be more jiromptly obeyed ; in fact, the attention and general polite- ness of Captain vSherman towards his passengers is (piite proverbial. The fare by this excellent b(iat from Whitehall to St. John's, a distance of more than 140 miles, is, as a cabin passenger, five dollars, rather more than one guinea ster- ling ; this expense includes an excellent dinner and supper, with the exception of wine 5 the attendance is also exceedingly good. There is on board, for the amusement of passengers, a IIM •MfM! „uimim>im THE JUVENILE TRAVKLLER. 115 lie (sle lestiua- iiul you ippears river." union? ; mist in licr to way o( an a da. ;uperior [1 order, nd acted tain is a Lumens j a look idate of •omptiy polite- jengers cellont ance of |seriger, yd ster- dinner ? 5 the lere is fcrs, a library, consisting of the latest Britisli and Ame- rican works. The lady's cabin is on deck, fitted up with great good taste, combining with com- fort elegance and neatness : the stewardess is in constant attendance upon the ladies, from whom slie deserves warm encomium for her general intention. It was about six o'clock in the morning when Mrs. B. and her party bade adieu to the Franklin steam-boat, and landed on the wharf at Isle Aux Noix, — with what delight we will leave our readers to imagine : for there they were to meet the fonfcl husband and father, after an absence of some months. The children were in rapture as they again felt the wrrm pressure of parental affection ; nor was that parent less alive to the intensity of joy, as he met the tender embrace of his affectionate offspring, and pressed them to that heart which had felt the most acute anxietv ft' for them during the passage. Tlic sensations of the mother's mind we will not attempt to de- scribe : they were, however, mingled with feel- ings of the highest gratitude towards the great God, who had preserved them not only in safety through the dangers of a sea-voyage, but also through the perils of contagion ; for the cholera was still striding with malignancy in many parts through which they had passed i and in all their r ii;i r ; ! 116 HENRY, OR 'i ' ii '^U >f J: gratitude and bliss tiiere was yet one much-lovqd object still wanting to complete their happiness. At the early part of our narrative we stated that Mrs. B. had left her eldest sun in England ; it was her first separation from him, and the pangs of parting were still frcr^h in her memory; and not at this distant period even can she re- flect on them without experiencing tliat mental agony known only on such occasions by a mo- ther. She had missed his endearing attentions to which she had been accustomed through tlie voyage; but now that they were assembled round the cheerful hearth, the absence of one so truly dear to all, and who had formerly contri- buted so much to charm and enliven their little circle, was felt with the deepest regret, ancl mixed a portion of sorrow into their cup of joy. We must in good truth congratulate our friend Henry upon his safe arrival at the Isle \ux Noix, where his father was stationed, and wliere in all probability our little hero will for some time remain, and have opportunity to afford us some description of the post, which, being mili- tary, cannot be totally void of interest to many of our young readers, particularly to those wlio are destined to visit Canada by way of the States ; for here they will for the first time, after cross- ing the Atlantic, see tlu^ British flag waving, — a il S! SvT| u" ) | inJ i tT " rWrTfe i T i Tg i ii j THE .irVENILK TRAVELLER. U7 ;h-lovqd ppincss. ted that land ; it ind the leniory ; she re- mental y a mo- ten tions ugh the semhled f one so r contri- eir little et, and of joy. r friend le Anx wliere r some brd us lij luili- niany 'C who ptates ; cross- nc:,— a circumstance that seldom fails to give joy to an English lieart. This little island, which is ahout three parts of a mile long, and a quarter of a mile hroad, has heen chosen with judgment as a frontier post : although the grouwd is not of much elevation, it is higher than any in the neighbourhood, and so situated as ])artly to oc- cupy the Channel, and entirely to command a view of it; the fortifications are exceedingly good. In the time of war it was a post of con- siderable importance, and is now occupied by a strong military detaclnnent, with a commaiidant and one or two subalterns, a fort adjutant, a commissariat officer, a medical olficcr, an ord- nance storekeeper, a barrack master, &c. The barracks, built of stone, are exceedingly large and commodious, and admirably situated within Fort Lennox : they were built under the gover- norship of the Duke of Richmond, and are said to have cost government fifty thousand pounds. The entrance is very noble, protected on each side by a drawbridge, and surroiiniicd by a deep moat, which is a grand receptacle for the bull- frofj, whose appalling note — loud, tivvp, and hoarse, issuing from ten thousand throats in ceaseless continuity of croak, — retidcrs the place a dismal annoyance to the inhabitants of the Fort, until custom reconciles them to the liorrid 118 HENRV, Oil i 'f , : I i ■• sound. The powdor magazines, military stores, and commissariat office, are witliin tlie Fort, the gates of which are guarded by a sentry. There is ako on the island an excellent navv- yard, containing handsome navy-barracks, hos- pital, and oiticers' quarters, &c. This establish- ment, until June, 1834, has been under the com- mand of a Lieutenant of the Royal Navy : it is now, liowever, broken up, and at present the buildings are nuoceupied. There is a neat church on the island, in which the service is performed once on the Sabbath by the Rev. Mr. Baldwin, Chaplain to the Forces. The inha- bitants of the Isle Aux Noix are all employed by government, and principally natives of Great Britain. Opposite to this delightful little spot, and about half a mile distance across the water, is a pleasant little village called St. Valentine's, inhabited principally by Canadians, who speak a sort of Patois French ; in appearance very poor, and seemingly destitute of all regard to clean- liness or comfort : they reside in miserable look- ing hovels, most of them built of logs, and contain two or three rooms. The Canadian peasants, in dress, manner, and air, resemble foreigners, and seem not to have changed their fashion since the davs of Adam : the men wear the Canadian m jacket, cap, sash, and moccasins. The women are \w * ■■-:■ THE jrJV'KNILE TRAVKLf.ER. U9 y stores, ''ort, the [It nuvv- ks, lios- i^tablish- !ic com- V : it »« sciit the a neat }rvice is lev. Mr. le inha- loycd by if Great tie spot, 3 water, utine's, speak a •y I)oor, clean- le look- contaiu ^\nts, ill rs, and nee the nadiaii len arc dark, and when yonncf very pretty, hut soon look squalid and unlieulthy, whieh may perhaps be partly attributed to the eflect of tlie stoves which heat their apartments in winter, and partly to ardent spirits, which are so cheap as to l)e within the grasp of every individual in tlte country. The men are addicted to drink inj?, and appear to be no great lovers of labour, for you seldom see any thing like a neatly-cultivatod garden near their residence. That pleasing little emblem of English industry, which speaks volumes in praise of our own peasantry, camiot breathe a sentence in favour of the poor Canadians. Like the Dutch, they not only build their ovens on the outside of their houses, but frequently over a pig- sty. It is a rare occurrence in Lower Canada to j)rocure a native female servant of any value : they are generally untidy, and extremely indo- lent; most of them Catholics, and bigotted to the utmost ; they will forfeit their situation, however lucrative, rather than resign a constant attendance at chapel. Few Canadian temales are therefore employed as servants : every body is looking out for either English or Irish ; and the immense emigration, particularly of the late seasons, af- fords a tolerable supply. jj I 120 HKNRV, OR CHAPTER Xlll. Henrtjs Pursuits. — The Emigrant. — St, Johns. — La Prairie, 6^c. t Our young readers will doubtless be somewhat anxious to know what were Henry's pursuits after bis arrival at Isle Aux Noix. We must inform them that even here he fouufi " employ- ment to be the true source of happiness :" his mornings were (levotcd to such stuaies as form the education of a gentleman, nor were his hours of relaxation less beneficially employed. Agri- culture became with him a favourite pursuit, and he left no means unt led to make himself perfectly acquainted with the merits and deme- rits of the soil. He soon cultivated a very pretty and large garden, quite in the English style; and as he came out well supplied with seeds, his labours were amply rewarded with an abundant crop of vegetables, every description of which flourishes exceedingly well in Caiuida, althougii the Lower Province is not considered to be so :ihi; ■ABWMwiiMMt 7~^ THE JUVENILE TRA\ Ef^4.i *• !2l Johfis. — )mewliat pursuit?? ^e must employ- " his as form lis hours Ai?ri- s« })]irsuit, himself 11 dcme- y pretty li stvie ; 'eds, his lundaut which [though be so generally prolific as tho Upper. He ry^ *arl potatoes, first peas, French beau>, ts ",. gaint ^ him great credit, and really set a very uselui example to many of his neighbours. Land is lierc sold cheap ; and those who can purchase a few acres, understanding how to till it, and are determined to rise early, and work late, will seldom fail to do well in Canada; but it is a fruitless speculation for any agriculturist or mechanic to emigrate to this country, in expec- tation of improving their condition in life, unless rhey be industriou'Iy disposed, ^'oo many vainly flatter themselves, when they quit their own country, that in the New World they will find dollars as plentiful as snow; but a few short months in America will convince^ them that such expectations are illusory. We remember an 1 jUglish baker, who with a wife and two or three children came out from Aylesbury, and settled in Ivowcr Canada : they brought with them but a few pounds in cash, probably very little more than was sufficient to pay their passage; for we were assured by the man that he left England with the full persuasion that in America they would find money and provisions so plentiful, that very little exertion would be necessary to procure even more than they would require. They were, hovvever, lamentably disappointed; '^i I 1 22 HKNRY, OR ior tilt' winter Jtttcr their firrival we saw them in (lire distress. The num had made an attempt to eoniinence in his husincss, hut nei^leetinq* to put hi? " sliouhhM* proj)erly to the wheel," he soon (ailed; sold his horse, his eart, and then his cow, to j)rocure mean*!: of suhsistence. For several months durini^^ the severe season himself anrl family existed on puhlic charity; at leni^th the winter hroke up, and the man procured eaiploy- ment as a farmer's servant; hut we have ample reason to suppose that the poor haker was greatly wanting ia that ingredient so essential in Canada — mdustni, for he remained in his new situation hill a short time, when he made his exir. into the States, doubtless thinking that tlLtre he \vould be able to live without labour. But alas ! we fear further disappointment still awaits him, as it inevitably will all those in that station in life •who leave England for a new country, unpre- pared to meet with privations whicli can only be alleviated by the " sweat of the brow. ' i\iany persons are also deceived when hearing of the rate of wages in the United States : it is there- fore of importance that they be informed that five shillings in Canada is equal to eight shillings in New York ; the par of exchange with England for the dollar is four shiUings and sixpence ster- ling; but the present rate, and which has not 'W." i' ?iK ' : TflK IIVKNILK raAVKLLKR. 123 them in tem{)t to q- to put he soon liis cow, ' several self anrl ii(th the employ- m ample .ft greatly 1 Canada situation . into the le would ihis ! we him, as in life unpre- onlv be i\lany 01 tlie there- ed that hillings |!.ii gland ce stcr- has uoi varied for a considerahle time, is about four shllhpgs and r\voi»enco sterling. The currency in tlu' Canadas is at the rate of five shillings th«» dollar, which is calleurc in visitin^^ the lort and barracks ; for tliis in t!u' time of war was a post of consiilcrabu.' im])ortanco. ITeiirv ex[)lorc(l them with delight ; his fatlier at thu same time reconntinc: to him manv ii.ierestintr military achieventents which had formerly distin- ^•aished the place. Tliey also \ isited the French and English churches; and from a wooden bridge, o\' about half a mile in length across the Rir'.he- lieu, they liad a fine view of the rapids, and of the canal which is now forming from St. Jeoj)!e in Lower Canada, as well as for our fel- low-travellers, we very cordially wish it every success. We certainly do not desire ourselvt s to undergo a second jumbling over its ruggeil ways, but will cheerfully contribute our warmest support towards the completion of the conteni- jilated improvement, which would render St. John's one qf the most delightful and convenient towns in Lower Canada. From this place to La Prairie the country at i)resent offers but little inducement to settlers. There are a few strag- gling cottages and an occasional village to be. met with, but the appearance of the inhabitants, like that of the soil, bespeak:? much poverty. Henry observed that some of the most, hiimbU- and dirty- looking houses Avere dignified by ■' »!' pole raised in front. Upon inquiry Jie luarni from his father that they were designed as marks of distinction, to denote the residence of oflicers of militia. It is no uncommon occurrence in Canada to see the wife of a captain in the militia bring a basket of eggs to your door to sell, appa- rently quite unconscious of the dignity cf her husband's rank. After about three hours' complete shaking in one of Mr. P^ott's stages, Henry and his party arrived at La Prairie, a large dirty-looking vil- lage, from which steam-boals cross several times N' ! I I 12G HENRY, OR a-'lay to Montreal, a y a high '- care of •ation ol ciiildren ^our was nbarked 3oat for > repose norninir i CHAPTER XIV. Montreal.— Rascoe's I Jo f el,— Review.— Climate.— ('onclusifjn. Although a little tatiguod with his roui^h jour- ney from St. John's to La Prairie, Heru-v still enjoyed his trip across the River St. Lawrence. Montreal is the second town of importance npon this beautiful river : it is situated on an island thirty miles in length and ten in breadth, \im[ derives its nann^ from a very high mountain, called by the Freneh, Mountreal, or Royal Moun- tain. This populous and great commercial city , is 170 miles from Quebec. Tlie exterior ot rln" Iiouses have a heavy and inelegant af)pearance : their roofs are covered with tin plates, in lieu <>1 slates or shingles, and many of them have sheet- iron shutters and doors, as a protection in cases of fire, which are of frecpient occurrence in this city ; but if the exterior be sombre, the interior of the houses is furnished with threat elei'ance and cgmfort, and the inhabitants are renowned r, 128 HENRY, OR for hospitality and kindness of heart. Many of their most eminent merchants are from Enghind, Ireland, or Scotland : but the French r(^tain their native xnanners and custom!?, as well as language. There are in this city several handsome churches. The New Englisli Cathedral is probably the largest in North America. I'he Roman Catholic church is likewise a line building: it has a mag- nificent painted glass window and five altars, all richly decorated. Henry with his piamma and sister visited the four convents, a favour which they obtained through the interest of a friend ; from theijce thf'V went to the barracks, whtM'c thev had the pleasure of seeing his Excellency Lord Ayhner j-eview the troops j this to our Jittle hero was a great treat, for lie had seldom seen so grand a military display. The barracks ai'e situated near the river, and Avill contain upwards of 3()0 men. The parade is a handsome piece of ground, and Ibrms a fashionable proinenade. Montreal has a well-supplied market 3 provisions arc cheap, but housc-rent very dear. The best accommo- dations that can be desired are in this city ob- tained in ibe boarding-houses and hotels, and we f think at a moderate rate. Mrs. B. and her family were staying at Rascoe's hotel : they joined the public table, which wa,-> well supplied: 1} ^ f MiiB) riiTiii-m-y THE JUVENILE TRAVELLER. 129 witli tlie exception of wine, the charge tor lodg- ing, with four meals per day, is one dollar and a Jialf each person, or ahout six shillings and eigiit- penco sterling. One of the principal attraqtions in the environs of Montreal is the Island of St. Helen's, or Giant's Island, which has recently been purchased at an enormous price by the JJritish Government as a military depot. This beautiful spot sliould be visited by strangers, as well as the Mountain of Montreal, where the luxury of extensive and grand scenery may be fully enjoyed. The climate of Canalaced in tandem fashion, as the tracks on the ice will frequtnitly not admit of their going two abreast : they will with ease travel at tlie rate of eighty miles a day. The smoothness and hieility with which they glide along is delightful^ and so little noise do they make, that it is necessary to have small bells attached to the harness to prevent accidents, by coming suddenly in contact with each other, which, without this timely notice, would frequently happen, particularly when tra- velhng by night. To guard against the cold tlie \ i :: imOBSiatmiim II 111, i ;Ti-niV>i'— iifi TIIK n VKNILE TRAVELLER. 131 tution- iniusc- e clear iihou I levoted s a la- novel, to wit- ; ice on 'chicles on two )ns of a mod to and are placed ice will jreast : eiffhtv ty with o little o have revent t with notice, en tra- Id the traveller i« enveloped in hutTalo robes ; the cap or bomiet, usually made of fnr, cover tiie ears and the greatri* [)art of the face, besides which, fur gloves and nmffs are indispensable. The Canadians also contrive in tlie very cold- est weather to keep tlioir habitations perfectly warL'i and comfortable. In largo houses a stove is always placed in the entrance hall, and one on each floor u[) stairs^ from whence flues pass in ditferent directions through tlie apartments, keep- ing up a cotitinual glow of boat throughout the liouse. Many have likewise open fire-places in their sitting-rooms : this is more as atfording a cheerAd appearance to the room than from ne- cessity, for by the stoves the house may l)e heated to any degree ; they have also, as an additional ])reventive against cold, recourse to double door*, and dou))le windows about six inches apart. As soon as the winter has passed, the rapid progress of vegetation is astonishing: in a few weeks the fields are clad in the richest ver- dure, and the trees decked in the gayest foliage : the various productions of the garden make their appearance in quick succession, and the grain sown in May yields a rich harvest by the end of July. S[)ripg has scarcely shown iiself, when it IS summer. That part of the y(^ar, when tlio seasons are so happily blended together, is de- '♦ L ^\ k , I 132 HBNRY, OR liglitful : Nature then puts on lier richest dress, and in no part of the ^vorld is there a greater display of heauty and variety of foliage than ii\ North America: the different tints of the lb- rests arc superb : at the ?amc time the heat is not tbund to he inconveniently oppressive until the beginning of August j the month of Septem- ber is the most agreeable period of the year for travelling in Canada. Notwithstanding the winter be long, and the climate severely cold, yet the soil is in general both fertile and good, producing barley, wheat, rye, and almost every other description of grain, and nearly every variety of European vegetable. mid the common kind of fruits — as apples, cur- rants, raspberries, &c. As a remarkable instance of the richness of the soil, the sugar-maple is found in almost every part of the country : this is a tree that will never flourish in a pooi" soil. We have seen a maple-tree, of the diameter of twenty-two inches, yield sufficient sap for mak- ing six pounds of sugar each year, and we are informed that it is no uncommon occurrence to find trees yielding annually nearly the same quantity for upwards of twenty years. The sap of this useful tree also makes good vinegar, and a pleasant beverage similar to table-beer ^ if distilled, it produces a very fine spirit j the sugar IHK JUVKMLK TRAVELI.ER. 133 : this • soil. Iter of mak- [e are ce to same le sap I, and 5 it' lugar is brought to inarkot by the* country-peopU? just in tlie i^aine wnv as anv o<^her of their i^nxluce. l^migratiou ha? been productive of wonderful improvement in the ligriculturc of this country: formerly thi^ farmers were considered hut slo- venly husbandmen ; however, tlie cfood exanipk^ set them bv the Enirlish and Scotch farmer^, wJKj have cmii»Tated to this country, has e.vcited them to emulation ; consequenth they have be- come more wealthy, industrious, and indepe\i- dent, and their lands have yearly proved more productive. The Fren(Vh Canadians are fond of residing near each other, and as long as a pa- rental farm will admit of division, a share of it is given to the sons when they are grown up^ and it is only when the family is very large that they think of purchasing fresh lots for cultiva- tion. The })r)n<'ipal settlements in Lower Canada lie contiguous to the River St. Lawrence, but the dangerous navigation of that river renders it advisable that emigrants from England to this country, who have the means within their power, should come out by way of New York ; it is the safest and decidedly the most comfortable mode of reaching these colonies. This very abridged account of Lower Canaiia will, we hope, be found acceptable to our young readers, and not totally destitute of interest: 1 f \m • ^4. 1 ^ if: i ii 134 flENRY, OU sliouUl tbcy ever visit thut boaiitiful and prolific country, they will be able to judi^e of its correct- ness. It is our intention at no (.' months on tlie grountl : its soil produces luxiu'iant cn»ps of Indian corn, some of the stenisd^f whicii i^row as hii,di as from six to eight feet; between each row they frequently plant melons, s(]uashes, and gourds. I'eaches in this part of the country, too, arrive; to great perfection in the open fields : it is no unusual occurrence in parts of the Upper Province to see the farmers feeding their pigs with peaches. In Lower Ca- naila tlie summer is too short to permit them to ri[)en sulficientlvj so that they are never brought to any perfectit)n. In closing our brief pages, we sanguinely liope our young readers will have* followed Henry across the Atlantic, and through part of the United States into Uanada, with mingled feelings of interest and pleasure; and tliat the time allot- ted to the perusal of this little voluuie will not be considered as lost. The details recorded may be depended upon as facts, conscientiously writ- ten without national or [)ersonal prejudice : the author has been influenced solely by an ardent desire to convey to tlie young mind useful in- formation in the most pleasing and easy maimer; and she flatters herself that, particularly such as may anticipate a visit to North America, will altimutely find her etforts have not been fruitless. 1 1 130 HENRY, OR TIIK jrVENILK TRAVELLER. She would also hope that those who are contcntcMl to remain on their own side of the Atlantic may float down the pages of her unpretending little volume, under the conviction that what they read has not been stamped by prejudice, or adorned with false representations ; and she intreats the public and the reviewers will receive her humble efforts with indulgence, always remembering that she does not presume to rank herself among the literati of the day. ft' !i V I THE KM). \ViLsoM