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New-street Square. a ,■:- f-i| ^ ■ Ct •• .^ i EM. ] MISSING GR] AN ACCOUN LONQMA THE KVENTFUL VOYAGE EM. DISCOVERY SHIP "RESOLUTE" TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS IN SEARCH OF SIR JOHN FRANKLIN AND THE MISSING CREWS OF H.M. DISCOVERY SHIPS "EREBUS" AND "TERROR," 1852, 1853, 1854. TO WHICH IS ADDED AN ACCOUNT OF HER BEING FALLEN IN WITH BY AN AMERICAN WHALER AFTER IIKR ABANDONMENT IN BARROW STRAITS, AND or HER PRESENTATION TO QUEEN VICTORIA BY THE aOVBRNMENT OF THE UNITED STATES. BT GEOEGE P. M*DOUGALL, MASTEB. LONDON: LONGMAN, BROWN, GEEEN, LONGMANS, & EOBERTS. 1857. The right of tnmilatioH U reterveil. gibuattom TO COMMODORE HENRY KELLETT, C.B. lATB CAPTAIN OF H.M, DISCOVEBY SHIP "BKSOLUTK," THE FOLLUWINQ PAOES, DESCRIPTIVE OP THE EVENTFUL VOYAGE, ABANDONMENT, RECOVERY, AND RESTORATION OP THAT SHIP TO THE QUEEN OP ENGLAND BY THE UNITED STATES OP AMERICA, ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, AS A SLIGHT MARK OP THE HIGH ESTEEM IN WHICH HE WILL EVER BE HELD «Y HIS DEVOTED FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. A 3 OFFICERS OF H.M.S. "RESOLUTE" AND TENDER "INTREPID." Captain - Lieutenant »» »» Master - Surgeon - Mate i» ■ - Clerk in charge - Henry Kellett, C.B. - George Frederick Mecham. - Bedford C. T. Pim. - Richard Vesey Hamilton. - George Frederick M'Dougall. - William T. Domville, M.D. - Richard Roche. - George S. Narea. - William H. Richards. Enseigne de Vaisseau Emile de Bray (Imperial Navy of France.) Foil SERVICE IN "Intrepid." Commander - Master - Assistant-Surgeon - Engineer » - Francis Leopold M'Clintock - Frederick J. Krabbe. - Robert C. Scott. - Thomas Purchase. - William Ibbets. A 4 PREFACE. The following pages, descriptive of the eventful voyage of Her Majesty's Discovery ship "Resolute," are simply what they profess to be ; viz. a journal kept by me on board that ship, up to the time of her abandonment in the ice, on the 15th of May, 1854. It was, however, — in common with similar records of other voyages in various parts of the world, — intended to be essentially private, as nothing was further from my thoughts than its publication ; but in this I have been overruled by the wishes of numerous influential friends, who deemed it requisite to have the narrative of the voyage of a ship, which has lately been brought so prominently before the public; the more so, as Sir Edward Belcher's expedition, being divided, the "Resolute" and her steam tender " Intrepid," under Captain Kellett, formed as it were a distinct service. An udditional reason for PREFACE. its appearing was the wish to connect the chain of events in the Arctic regions, during the present century ; in which no gap has occurred save the voyage of Sir James Ross in 1848-49; this, it is much to be regretted, has not appeared, for the sledge journeys* then performed opened out anew era in Arctic exploration, greatly to the credit of Captain (now Admiral) Sir James Ross, Captains Austin and Ommanney, and Lieut, (now Captain) Francis L. M'Clintock, who, with Captain Sherard Osborn, Captain Penny, and others, have brought the equipments necessary for travelling to a mar- vellous state of perfection ; so that any portion of the Arctic regions may be traced by means of sledges, with as little risk, and more certainty, than generally attends the exploration of countries, in any other quarter of the globe. The time, trouble, and valuable advice which has been so freely given me by Mr. Barrow, is another proof of the unremitting kindness he has ever dis- * Vide Parliamentary/ Papers, 1851. " Additional Papers — Sledge Journies of Captains Austin and Penny,'* and Further Papers, 1855, relative to the recent Arctic Expeditions in search of Sir John Franklin and the Crews of H.M.SS. " Erebus " and " Terror." Presented to both Houses of Parliament, by cominund of Her Majesty. PRKFACE. XI played towards those who have in any way been connected with Arctic exploration, and the sincere thanks I now tender, not only in my own name, but on the part of all who have served in the North, will, I feel confident, be echoed by every " Arctic," whether officer or man. In conclusion I may be allowed to observe, that no one can be more fully aware of the many im- perfections that exist in the style of the following narrative than I am myself, and I cannot but feel that it has no claim to the indulgence of the public, save its truthfulness in every respect. Perhaps I ought to explain that the word " party," so frequently used in this Journal, is the term by which, in the Arctic squadron, any body of travellers was designated. G. F. M'DOUGALL. Denny Street, Tralee. July, 1857. B- > * CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Leave the Nore. — Proceed through North Sea. — Cross the Pentland Firtli — Arrive at Stromness. — ^Leave Stromness. — Letter of Sir E. Belcher. — Complete Arrangements for Tow- ing.— Pass Cape Wrath. — Fishing Boats off the Butt of Lewis. — Last Letters written. — Commencement of Gale. — It blows a violent Gale. — A few Remarks thereon. — " Basi- lisk " and '* Desperate " part Company. — Tlie sunken Land of Bus. — Remarks on the Current. — Off Cape Farewell. — Danger of " Washing or Straggling Pieces." — Loss of the *' Shannon,*' of Hull. — Loss of the " Shannon,*' continued Page 3 CHAP. n. First sight of Ice and Land. — West Coast of Greenland laid down incorrectly. — Experience a sudden Squall. — Arrive at the Whale-Fish Islands. — Their Value to Denmark. — Esquimaux Costume. —^ Visit Kron-Prins Islands. — The Burial Ground. — Esquimaux Canoe.^ — Leave Whale-Fish Islands. — Arrive off Godhaven. — *' Pioneer " fouls a Berg.^ Arrive at Lievely. — Each Ship grounds. — The " Reso- lute's" Ball. — Settlement of Lievely The Town of Lievely - - . - - 21 XIV CONTENTS. ; i [I ^ i t ! r CHAP. III. Land to obtain Coal. — Find the Waygat Channel blocked. — Bergs very numerous. — Sight Sanderson's Hope. — Arrival at Uppernavik. — EIncountcr a Gale. — Termination of the Gale. — Leave Uppernavik. — Sight of the Sugar-Loaf. — Dense Fogs. — Amusements on the Ice. — Sad Fate of two Dogs. — Sustain a Iieavy Nip. — The Rudder crushed by Ice. —Cut into Dock. — The Wreck of the " Regalia." — The Pleasures of Wrecking. — Speak the " St. Andrew " of Aber- deen. — Join a Fleet of Whalers. — A few Words on Dock- cutting. — Benefit derived by using Powder - Page 38 CHAP. IV. Constantly on the move. — The " M'Lellan " suffers from a Nip. — Is hove down and effectually repaired. — Loss of the " M'Lellan." — Whalers move to the Southward. — Strange Effects of Mirage. — Separated from the " Assistance " and " Pioneer." — Novel Amusement on a Berg. — North Water in Sight. — Enter the North Water. — Communicate with Esqui- maux. — At Cape York. — A few Words about the Esqui- maux. — Part Company with " Alexander." — Progress through Lancaster Sound. — Arrive at Beechey Island.— The Graves at Beechey Island. — Arrival of "Assistance." — Official Search for Records - - - 61 CHAP. V. Sir E. Belcher addresses Officers and Men. — Abstract of Orders. — Vessels of Squadron separate. — Land a Boat near Cape Hotham. — The Ship takes the Ground. — Ship grounds a Second Time. — Obliged to lighten the Ship. — A novel but unpleasant Incident. •— Ship severely pressed by Ice. — Ship floats and proceeds to the Westward. — Griffith's Inland. — — Prospect to the Westward most encouraging. — In the Vicinity of a suspected Shoal. — Compasses worse than use- CONTENTS. XV less. — Prospects become less bright. — Off Lowther Island. — Secure to Land Ice. — Watch the State of the Ice. — Lowther Island roughly Surveyed. — Lowther Island. — Confirm the Existence of a Shoal. — Pass between Somer- ville and Browne Islands Cross the Mouth of M'Dougall Bay. — Land a Depot near Alison's Inlet, — Pass Cape Cockburn. — Austin Channel. — Stopped by Ice off South Point of Byam Martin Island. — Bearing Tables very useful. — Byam Martin Island. — Sight Melville Island - Page 84 CHAP. VI. Melville Island. — Land a Dep6t on Point Griffiths. — Pass Skene Bay — First Musk-Ox killed. — " Intrepid " grounds near Point Palmer. — Musk-Oxen numerous. — Cape Bounty. — Sight Winter Harbour. — Cairn erected by Sir E. Parry. — Captain decides on returning to Skene Bay. — Sea covered with thick " Sludge Ice." — Unable to enter Skene Bay. — Secure to Fast Ice near Dealy Island. — Cut into Floe for wintering. — Preparations for wintering. — De- parture of Travelling Parties. — Routes of Travelling Parties. — Experience a heavy Gale. — Its Effects. — Prepara- tions for Winter. — Return of Lieut. Hamilton. — Despatch a Balloon. — Lieut. Mecham returns with important Docu- ments. — Proceedings of " Investigator," and Discovery of the North-west Passage. — Remarks on the foregoing Journal. — Mr. Nares returns on Board. — A disagreeable Ducking 115 CHAP. VII. The first Death. — Character of the Deceased. — Funeral of Thomas Mobley. — A few Remarks on fitting " Housings," Winter Hatches, &c. — Arrangements for the Winter. — Depar- ture of the Sun. — Last View of the Sun — Guy Fawkes' Day. — Strange Noises in the Offing. — Preparation for the Theatre. — The Prologue. — The Performance. — A few Words on the Theatre - - - - - - 147 XVI CONTKNTS. ^r ; \ l?t n &^ i ^ CHAP. VIII. Routine of the Day during the Winter. — Employment. — An Aurora. — Musk-Oxen seen in Mid-winter. — Death of George Drover. — The Absence of Light. — Entertained by the " Intrepids."— Christmas Day. — Wind, Weather, &c. — De- crease of Temperature. — Preparations for Travelling. — Two Ptarmigan shot. — A Hare killed. — Rencontre with a Bear. — A few Words about Thermometers. — Theatrical Per- formances. — Expected Appearance of the Sun. — The Pro- digal's Return. — Observed Refraction. — Face Protectors. — The Necessity of a Companion when walking. — Direction of intended Canal. — Visited by a Native— Bear. — A Gale. — Absence of two Officers. — Strange Effects of Cold. — Furious Gale. — Re-stow After-hold with Gravel. — Pro- visions for Travelling Parties. — Mode of preparing Pemican. — Articles of Equipment • - - Page 163 CHAP. IX. Supposed Proceedings of "Investigator." — Object of Lieut. Bedford Pim's Search. — Departure of Banks' Land Party. — A few Words about the Dogs. — Mr. Roche leaves to re- join Lieut. Pim. — The new Sledge " Erin." — Return of Mr. Roche. — Remarkable Phenomenon. — A Musk-Ox killed. — A few Words about Musk-Oxen. — Departure of Travelling Parties. — Lieut. Hamilton returns. — Arrival of Officers and Men of H.M.S. " Investigator." — Summary of " Investiga- tor's " Proceedings. — Pim and Domville's Journey. — Lieut. Pim discovers " Investigator " — Intended Operations of Investigators this Spring. — Mode of Travelling. — Pri- vations experienced by " Investigators." — Unhealthy State of Investigators - - - - • 197 CHAP. X. I am ordered to accompany Lieut. Hamilton, — Depar- ture from the Ship. — Travelling Journal. — A Piirty leaves ■i CONTENTS. XVII for Reechey Island. — De Brny returns with tlio Corpse of one of his Crew. — Unpleasant Situutiun of du Hniy. — Mr. Dean captures a living Calf (Mu8k-0x). — Return of Mr. Nares and Party. — Unexpected Arrival of Commander Richards. — Route of Commander Richards. — Captain Kcllett returns on Board. — Commander Richards de|mrts for Northumberland Sound. — Return of Dr. Domville from the Bay of Mercy. — " Investigator " is to be abandoned . — Travelling Journal. — Conclusion of Journal. Page 224 CHAP. XL Proceedings of the *• North Star." — Roche's Dog Journey — Dr. M'Cormick's Boat Voyage. — Arrival of the " Prince Albert " at Bfechey. — An unexpected Arrival atBeechey. — Proceedings of "North Star." — Sumptuous Breakfast. — Receipt for Arctic Soup. — Captain M'Clure harangues the Crew. — Remarkable Coincidence. — Shooting Parties despatched — Success in obtaining Game. — A few Words about Animals. — On the Animal Productions of the Arctic Regions. — On the Animal Productions of the Arctic Regions, from Personal Observation. — False Reports on the Animal Productions. — Theory of Arctic Vegetation - 264 CHAP. XII. Mecham and Party return to the Ship. — Sledges, Flags, and Mottoes. — Complete Depot House and Cairn. — Complete Water-Preparations for Sea. — Dealy Island Races. — Ob- tain the Variation. — Unexpectedly driven out of Winter Quarters. — Situation of the Ship. — At Sea once more after Eleven Months' Detention. — Bright Prospects not realised. — Unpleasant Position ; Forty Fathoms to Twelve — Shorten Byam Martin Island Eleven Miles. — Off Point Griffiths. — Extraordinary Ice-Blink .... 284 a xviii CONTENTS. CHAP. XIII. Anecdotes of Lumminga. — Death of Three Musk-Oxen. — Detention at Point Griffiths. — Ten Musk-Oxen killed. — Capture of Four young Foxes (alive). — Skating on the Ice. — Provision "Intrepid." — Ship arrested by Sludge Ice. — Return to Point Griffiths Musk-Ox Hunt,— "In- trepid " leaves to examine State of Ice. — Join " Intrepid " to the Eastward. — Ship beset in young Ice. — Tremendous Squall. — Heavy Gale. — Ship driven to the Southward. — Ship sustains considerable Pressure. — Vessel drifting in the Puck. — Preparing for second Winter. — Vessel on the Magnetic Meridian. — Build a Snow Wall around the Vessel. Page 313 I, )• K CHAP. XIV. Attempts to ascertain Daily Drift. — Arctic Sculpture. — Main Deck Housing secured. — Cover Upper Deck with a Layer of Snow, &c. — Death and Burial of Poor Suinsbury. — Winter Lectures commenced by Domville. — a Lyraa (Vega), 1st May, seen at Noon. — The Theatre. — Domville's Second Lecture. — Studious Character of the Crew. — Moonlight. — Christmas Day in the Arctic Regions. — Christmas Dinner in the Gun-Room. — Electric Telegraph ; its Successful Working. — New Year's Day. — The Lost Man - 335 CHAP. XV. Read a Second Paper on Arctic Explorations. — Mr. Nares reads a Paper on " Mechanics." — Death of James Wilkie (I.Q.M.). — Hamilton ordered to prepare for Beechey. — A few Words about the Dogs. — Harness for Dogs. — Hamil- ton's intended Proceedings. — Hamilton leaves for Beechey Island. — Roche shot through the Thigh. — Hamilton's Second Start for Beechey. — Proposed Routes for Explora- tion. — Mecham and Krabb6 leave for Baring Island. — Com- mander Richards arrives from " Assistance." — Proceedings of '* Phoenix" in 1853. — Death of Lieut. Bellot in August, CONTENTS. XIX 1853 Proceedings of " Asalgtance " and " North Stnr." — R -choy. — Commander M'ClintocIc returns from " AssistAnce." — Trcparutions for abandoning the Ship. — Arrival and Departure of Lieut. Cheyne ond Mr. Jenkins. — Tl»e Last L)ajf on Board the "Resolute." — Abandonment of " Resolute " ond " Intft'pid." Fago 362 « CHAP. XVL Journal from '• Resoluto " to " North Star," — Arrival on board the "North Star." — Travelling Arrangements between "North Star" and "Assistance." — Arrival of Mecliam, Hamilton, and Krabb^. — Copy of Mecham's Letter of Pro- ceedings.— Krabb^'s Letter of Proceedings. — Lieut. Hamil- ton appointed to command " Pioneer." — Leave " North Star" for " Assistance " in Disaster Bay. — Arrive on boffrd " Aa- sintance." — Winter Quarters of " Assistance " and " Pioneer." — Return to Beechcy Island. — Arrive on board the "North Star." — Cairn on Beechey Island. — Sir Edward Belcher arrives at Beechey Island. — The Monument on Beechey Island. — Liberation of " Assistance " and " Pioneer " from Disaster Bay. — Sir Edward Belcher ond Party leave for " Assistance." — " Assistance " and " Pioneer " aban- doned. — Arrival of " Phoonix " and " Talbot " at Beechey Island. — Leave Beechey Island for England. — Anchor in Navy Board Inlet. — Depdt injured by Esquimaux. — Lose an Anchor and four Shackles of Cables. — Regain another and five Shackles of Cables. — Off the Black Hook. — An- chor off Lievely. — Sail from Lievely. — Return to England and Court-Martial .... 392 CHAP. XVIL Recovery and Restoration of H.M.S. "Resolute" 452 a 2 f mm^ IBEM * I- XX CONTENTS. ! V! r APPENDIX. Table of positions for track of H.M.S. « Resolute," 1852 Table of positions for track of H.M.S. "North Star,** from Beechey Island to England — 1854 Tables of temperature - - - - - Results of Capt. M'Clintock's experiments with travelling kettles and lamps - - . _ - Scheme of fuel for a party of eleven persons Equipments for a travelling party of eight men (1 officer and seven men) . . - - - List of clothing taken by a party proceeding on a long journey ------ Tent for eight men - - - - - Dimensions of tent for eleven men - - . Summer of 1853. — Dealy Island - - - Tides at Dealy Island . - - - - New coast line discovered in 1853 - . - Thickness of ice, 1853-4 . . . - Navigable season closed . - - - Land discovered and searched from 1848 to 1854 Abstracted list of game procured during various voyages in the Arctic regions - - - - - Meteorological abstracts . . - - A compendium of the travelling operations during the spring of 1853, 8ec. - Abstract of travelling operations for autumn, 1852 and spring, 1853 ------ Game list ------ Meat account .-.-.- Animals ....-- Page 481 486 487 492 492 493 494 495 495 496 496 496 496 496 497 498 500 520 528 529 529 530 J • t LIST OF PLATES. Plate 1. Situation of H.M.S. Discovery Ship "Resolute," Baffin's Bay, June 26, 1852 . . . to/ace pa^^e 51 2. « Resolute " and " Intrepid " pass- ing a large Iceberg, Baffin's Bay, July 1852 - 3. Loss of the « M'Lellan " American Whaler, July 8, 1852 - 4. H.M.S. "Resolute" and "Intre- pid," Winter Quarters, Melville Island, 1852-53 5. Departure of travelling parties from "Resolute" and "Intre- pid," April 4, 1853 6. " Resolute " under sail for the last time, September 10, 1853 7. Abandonment of the "Resolute" and"Intrepid,"May 15, 1854 8. H.M.S. "Resolute" entering Portsmouth Harbour (Decem- ber 24, 1856) » » )i 57 65 151 211 325 391 » 465 :i a wm9 «p mmmm t ' Hi. 1^: Ss ^ H LIST OF WOODCUTS. Page Arctic Squadron - - ... 3 H.M.S. "Resolute" lying -to in the North Atlantic - 13 Ice Instruments - - - - - - 24 Natives — "Whale-fish Islands - - - - 27 Esquimaux Canoe - - - - - 30 "Pioneer's" Accident, and 'Resolute'a" Predicament - 33 Amusements on the Ice - • - - - 49 Diagram of the " Resolute's " Nip - - - 51 Apparatus for sawing Ice - - - - 52 Diagram of Ice- dock - - - - - 60 Mirage — BaflSn's Bay - • - - - 68 Esquimaux — Cape York - - - - 74 Balloon ------- 127 Pursuit of Science under Difficulties - - - 176 Winter Costumes - - - - - 186 Pursuit of a Bear - - - - - 189 Remarkable Snow Cliff, Bridport Inlet, Melville Island - 196 H.M. Sledge, " Erin " - - - . - 205 Cooking under Difficulties - - - . 229 Graves on Dealy Island - . - - - 243 Interior of a Tent - - - - - 253 Packing the Sledge preparatory to marching - - 255 Arctic travelling in the month of June - - - 262 H.M. Sledges, Flags, and Mottoes • • - 286 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. V*ge 3 13 24 27 30 33 49 51 52 60 68 74 127 176 186 189 196 205 229 243 253 255 262 286 Perhaps of all the various duties to which a naval man finds himself subjected, throughout a neces- sarily adventurous career in every quarter of the known world, that of Arctic exploration, such as was adopted by the late searching expeditions, may fairly be considered unequalled in point of novelty, labour, and privation. With but few resources beyond what the stores of ordinary men-of-war afibrd, vast tracts of land have been discovered, and our geographical know- ledge of one of the most interesting — because so little known — quarters of the globe, extended by thousands of leagues, whilst to the scientific and inquiring mind has been opened out a boundless field of instruction and study. But the above advantages, great as they are, fall into the shade, when compared with the solu- tion of the long-pending problem of a North-west a 4 XXIV INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. ii passage, which for centuries past has engaged the attention of the maritime world. During the early voyages, mercantile enterprise (often of an individual character,) induced the risk of capital, to discover a shorter, and, as was hoped, a safer passage to the Pacific, than the long, tedious, and often disastrous voyage by the way of Cape Horn : where their little barks inefficiently equipped, too frequently foundered beneath the overwhelming seas of that still much dreaded neigh- bourhood. It must not, however, be imagined that either of the above advantages were supposed likely to accrue, from the discovery of this much desired passage by the more modern voyagers, or their supporters ; as no merchant of the present day would be insane enough to embark capital by such a route, for, setting aside the physical obstacles, in themselves sufficient to preclude the hope of suc- cess, the perfection that naval architecture, com- bined with steam, has now attained, enables the merchant to transmit his goods to a central position between the two Pacific Oceans in little more than a month from the principal ports of AV^estern Europe. vte. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. XXV Science alone of late years has laboured with a zeal and perseverance almost unparalleled, to deter- mine this great geographical question, but without success. Providence had ordained that the little band engaged in the glorious cause of humanity, should solve what past generations attempted in vain. Until within the last thirty-nine years, Baffin's Bay, properly so called, was a sealed book to the vessels engaged in the whale fishery, although Baffin during his last voyage in 1616 (241 years since), completed the circuit of Baffin's Bay, discovering also Wolstenholme, Booth, Whale, Smith, Jones, and Lancaster Sounds. Of this voyage, one of the most interesting on record, nothing save a skeleton chart, and a brief letter to Sir John Wolstenholme, has been preserved. However, the year 1818 saw the portals of the hitherto unknown sea, opened by Captain (the late Admiral Sir John) Ross, who, notwithstanding his voyage was unsuccessful in many respects, has, nevertheless, the merit of being the immediate cause of inducing the whalers to push on to the northward of their usual fishing-grounds, where, if » » Private American I": 60 men 60 »f 30 n 30 » 40 n 26 n 20 » 15 » 17 >» 19 n 17 >» Eleven ships with 334 Behring's Straits, H.M. Ship "Herald" - „ "Plover" - „ "Enterprise" „ " Investigator " Yacht " Nancy Dawson " - 60 men 43 » 66 >» 66 >» 30 » Five ships with 355 >» f Baffin's Bay Behring's Strait Ships. - 11 ■ A Total 16 Men. 334 355 689 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. XXXIX On the return of Captain Austin's expedition, an Arctic committee was appointed to inquire into the many conflicting statements which were made relative to the disposal of the forces under Captains Austin and Penny; the result was that another expedition was determined on. The same vessels, viz., " Resolute," " Assistance," " Pioneer," and " Intrepid," with the addition of the " North Star" as a dep6t ship, were again equipped ; the commands — for there were two distinct branches — being entrusted to Captains Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., and Henry Kellett, C.B. ; the tenders were in charge of Commander F. L. M'Clintock and Lieut, (now Captain) Osborn ; the latter officer was made a Companion of the Bath for his distinguished services in the Sea of Azov. Even now, whilst I write, Captain M'Clintock is again preparing to prosecute another voyage, in hopes of clearing up the mystery of the fate of the crews of the " Erebus " and " Terror." A screw steam yacht — the "Fox" — has been pronounced admirably adapted for the service, the beau-ideal of an Arctic vessel of the present day, with a bow as sharp as a knife, the very reverse of the old school, and is now fitting out at Aberdeen at the jpp i A. . , H. ' 5 E' > t Xl INTRODUCTORY REALA.KKS. expense of Lady Franklin and other promoters of her noble undertaking. May her unparalleled efforts to obtain tidings of her brave husband and his gallant companions be attended with the results so ardently desired ; and if success can be obtained, Captain M'Clintock is, under Providence, the man to command it. The good wishes of every civilised nation will attend the expedition now setting forth from our shores ; and may all who comprise it be restored to their homes in unimpaired health, and successfully accomplish the object of their glorious mission. a. F. M'DOUGALL. ir^' I Denny Street, Tralee. July, 1857. ■W " « ' . *■ I ■ ! Mi l I l l I I ti KiwMIW j^| j l| ^ ll| | i ii i j»i,«>»)n ,i ■iw lapiMHirti i^iiii !<« iiLi«itm>t«ufc %"■ ."V- «%, i^^ is>>i-;^>*4i'-^^7 *!^ ■. ^' i a n W I MP l Mj 1 iijtjrTij l lAi P Miit .ni M ftj i Mi --^ ,"---*-! ..^.^''--^.^r-- Lmkhit . J.i'Hi/mtMn_Afb. ,i hntiiP^VAirtl>.dr.Wi'i.-,r^r Lmthn . li'm/mtm_Aih. J*. ^ iZL .CiS««'L -$».*' * w I PEIVATE JOURNAL KEPT ON BOARD (( H. M. DISCOVERY SHIP ** RESOLUTE." B I » I! « Kctolute. riuncLT AtHlitancc. Arctic Squadron, 185S. Intrepid. North Stnr. CHAPTER I. Leave the Nore. — Proceed through North Sea. — Cross the Pentland Firth. — Arrive at Stromncss. — Leave Stromness. — Letter of Sir E. Belcher. — Complete Arrangements for Towing. — Pass Cape Wrath. — Fishing Boats off the Butt of Lewis. — Last Letters written. — Commencement of Gale. — Gale in the North Atlantic. — A few Remarks thereon. — " Ba- silisk" and "Desperate" part Company. — The sunken Land of Bus. — Remarks on the Current. — Off Cape Farewell. — Danger of " Washing or Straggling Pieces." — Loss of the " Shannon," of Hull — Loss of the " Shannon," continued. Wednesday^ April 21st, 1852, at 5 a.m. the Arctic Searching Expedition, consisting of H.M. Ships "Assistance," "Resolute," "North Star," " Intrepid " and " Pioneer," under the command of Captain Sir Edward Belcher, C. B., left Greenhithe B 2 LEAVE THE NORE. and proceeded down the River ; the three first in tow of the "Monkey/* "African," and "Light- ning ; " the tenders were under steam. A bright morning, an unclouded sky, a keen frost, and an easterly wind reminded many of us of those glorious daysprings which are only to be met with in MelviUe Bay. The Thames, as usual, was studded with vessels of every size and nation. On passing, their crews mechanically ceased their ordinary occupations, to gaze on us with an interest, expressive of the feelings which the peculiar nature of the service, on which we were about to be em- ployed, would naturally suggest to the reflective mind. As some of the vessels were in want of a few articles from the Dockyard to complete their equip- ment, we anchored at the Nore, where we found the " Basilisk " and " Desperate " (steamers) awaiting our arrival for the purpose of towing the squadron through the North Sea. At 3*20 P.M. the squadron weighed and pro- ceeded in the same order as before, — with the ** Basilisk " and " Desperate " in company,— and an- chored at 10 P.M. in the East Swin to await the change of tide. Thursday^ 22nd, at 5 a.m., wind moderate from S.E., weighed and proceeded in tow of the " Lic?ht- PROCEED THROUGH NORTH SEA. ning, -squadron in company. During the fore- noon made all plain sail, which caused the old vessel to heel over considerably in consequence of having a heavy deck load. At noon the " Lightning " cast off, and was succeeded by " Desperate," whose great power gave an increase to our former speed. In the course of the afternoon the wind freshened considerably, and at 5 P.M. we followed the motions of the " Assist- ance," and cast off from " Desperate." Shortening to moderate sail, we continued on our course to the northward. Friday^ 23r^ During the night the wind increased to a strong breeze from S. E. with a cross sea, which rendered the vessel very uncom- fortable the whole day. Sunday^ 25th. — On going on deck this morning I found we were becalmed and about to be taken in tow by the "Desperate," by whose aid we were soon ploughing our way through the mirror-like sea, at the rate of eight miles an hour. The morning was beautifully fine, with a perfectly cloudless sky. Noss Head with its pic- turesque lighthouse was distinctly visible, as well as the bold promontory near which stands John o' Groat's house, whilst blue in the distance we » 3 * t ' '■I :! i;.! , 6 CROSS THE PENTLAND FIRTH. could just distinguish the outline of the high land of Hoy. Such a day was enjoyed by all on board, but I doubt if gazing on the pretty cottages, snugly ensconced in the recesses of deep bays, tended to reconcile us to the thoughts of leaving England, dear England ! for a period which we all knew must be for years, and might be for ever ! Rounding Duncansby Head, the N.E. extremity of Great Britain, we encountered the tide of the Pentland Firth, which, during the springs runs at the rate of ten miles an hour. By the aid of steam we crossed the Firth in gallant style, and wended our way through circuitous, but noble channels* catching an occasional glimpse of deep bays and fiords, as well as a distant view of Kirkwall with its ancient cathedral, which was scanned with con- siderable interest by those amongst us who had perused Scott's Pirate, At 1*30 P.M. we anchored off the town of Stromness, but as the sabbath is strictly observed, only a few people came on board. In the course of the evening all the vessels of the squadron arrived, filling the harbour, and imparting an air of gaiety to the town, which by the aid of telescopes ap- peared crowded with people of both sexes. Tuesday, 27 J II i halo, led us to suppose we were to have a gale, an idea which was supported by the savans of Stromness. At 2 P.M. weather very unpromising ; weighed and proceeded out of Hoy Mouth in tow of the " Desperate," squadron in company. Although the atmosphere was laden with moisture, hundreds of people congregated on the heights to witness our departure. The following is an extract from the orders issued by Sir Edward Belcher, C.B., to Captain Kellett, C.B., the second in command of the expe- dition, under whom I had the happiness to serve on board the " Resolute : " — " I wish it to be perfectly understood throughout the squadron, that I shall be at all times open to unreserved communication with all the officers, upon matters which are not already defined by the naval instructions to be trans- mitted through the commanding officer : and that upon any ideas which may occur to them upon scientific, theo- retical, or other interesting matters, their remarks will find a place in the general Journal of the Voyage, which will be kept confidentially by myself. « It is, I hope, from what I have seen (and from the feeling which I know brought the majority of officers together to support me in this arduous undertaking), un- necessary to say more, than that each will strive to main- tain the general happiness of our community — that they LETTER OF SIR E. BELCHER, C.B. 9 will see the necessity of avoiding any subjects which may cause irritation or difference of opinion ; and that if any exciting discussions should arise between others, they will use their utmost endeavours to turn the conversation, or to soften irritable remarks, which may unfortunately have escaped. " To carry out the important service in which we are all engaged, we should remember that all must pull together ; that the success of the expedition is the success of all, and that according to the importance of the general result, so will they be entitled to ask for reward. " One failure, one dark spot on the record, may not at the moment be thought important — but remember that the eyes of the whole civilised world are upon us ! As those who preceded us have done well, let us strive to exhibit what can be achieved by discipline, good feeling, and that untiring zeal which is ever conspicuous in our noble pro- fession. " Given under my hand on board Her Majesty's Ship * Assistance,' at Stromness, Orkney Islands, the 28th of April, 1852. " E. Belcher. •i " To Captain Henry Kellett, C. B., and the Officers commanding Her Majesty's ships and vessels composing the Arctic Expedition." 'Y The departure of the squadron must have formed rather an imposing spectacle from the shore : the " Basilisk," with " Assistance " in tow, took the lead, followed by the tenders, then came / 1 I ■!; ,1 ■i { 1 10 COMPLETE ARRANGEMENTS FOR TOWING. the " Desperate " and " Resolute," whilst the " North Star," under sail, brought up the rear. Although we all expected a gale, we were agree- ably surprised on finding our supposition incor- rect, for when outside Hoy Mouth we found the sea smooth, and wind (westerly) moderate. It was not till 8 p.m. that the arrangements for towing were completed. We then proceeded in two divisions, — the "Basilisk," towing the "As- sistance," "Intrepid" and Pioneer," formed the first division, whilst the second was composed of the " Desperate," " Resolute," and " North Star." Steering so as to pass to the southward of the Nunbank ; the light on Cape Wrath was observed at 3 A.M. on Thursday 29th, and the point passed at 8 A.M. within five miles, with a smooth sea and moderate easterly breeze. The fine weather enabled us to determine the position of the ship by true bearings of Cape Wrath, which verified the rates of our chrono- meters. During the day we had little or no wind, but towards evening a breeze sprang up from S.E. with misty weather. About 6 p.m. we were sur- prised to observe several fishing-boats, but did not pass within hail. The boats appeared small for PASS CAPE WRATH. 11 )e )t the purpose on which they were employed so many miles from land, but were no doubt admi- rably adapted to contend with a strong breeze and heavy sen. This little incident naturally enough caused the conversation to turn on the various styles of naval architecture adopted by the diffe?'ent countries we had visited. One gave a graphic account of the structure and capabilities of the catamaran, which is literally a rude raft of rough logs ; several of these I had frequently seen off the northern coast of South America, many leagues out of sight of land, and as often wondered at the recklessness of men who, to obtain what at the best must be a precarious livelihood, trusted themselves to the elements in such a primitive vessel. For several days after we left the Orkneys the weather continued very unsettled, with variable winds, and a heavy westerly swell. Sunday^ 2nd — At noon the signal was made to have letters for England ready by to-morrow, which caused postage stamps, signatures to wills, and extracts from journals, to be in great demand. A bag full of letters was completed in an almost incredibly short time, although the process at a gun-room table is at all times difficult, but parti- •i 12 LAST LETTERS WRITTEN. cularly so when, in addition to the usual noise, the motion of tlie vessel is rendered uneasy by a fresh breeze and cross sea. And these were to be our last letters for a long, long period ! and yet there was something pleasing in the feeling that they would be perused with greater pleasure, and prized infinitely more than their predecessors. With these thoughts and the hope of again enjoying the sight of the loved shores of Old England, the bag was closed, and the last link severed that bound us to our homes. Tuesday^ Ath. — Wind strong from S.W., with a cross sea. We scarcely knew what to make of the weather, for although appearances had for several days foretold a gale, the barometer had been gra- dually rising, and at 3 p.m. stood at 30'21. It went no higher, however, but commenced falling rapidly, which one would have supposed to be the signal for the sea and wind to begin in earnest. We soon, to use a nautical phrase, had " fresh hands at the bellows," and foamy crests to the waves ; these causes combined compelled us at 10 P.M. to reduce our canvas to close-reefed top- sails. Wednesday^ 6th: — At noon to-day the gale was violent indeed, and in the squalls blew a perfect fJALE IN THE NORTH ATLANTIC. 13 hurricane, with a very heavy cross sea. The ship laboured greatly, and took water in constantly over the lee gunwale, but considering the weight on deck the old craft behaved well. We were now lying-to under close-reefed maintopsail, storm stay- sail, and reefed main trysail. During the afternoon the top-gallant masts were housed, and everything secured for a conti- H.M.S. " Resolute " lying-to in the North Atlantic. nuation of the gale. Towards night the squalls abated somewhat in violence, but not sufficient to allow any increase of sail. ^ TM 14 REMARKS ON A GALE. I ' I " A wet sheet and a flowing sea " is all very well in theory, but I should like to see the author of that song in a deeply laden ship in the North At- lantic, with a strong gale and heavy sea, and all their concomitant miseries. I doubt if he would reiterate his request to be supplied with -" the snorting breeze, And the white waves heaving high ; " but rather imagine he would bear willing testimony to the good taste of the " fair maid " who sighed " for a soft and gentle breeze." Thursday, Qth. — The wind this morning had decreased to a light variable breeze, with occa- sional squalls and heavy rain. With the exception of the " Basilisk " all the vessels were in sight, but at some distance from us. "We took advantage of the break in the gale to send a tier of casks off deck and stow them below, although by so doing the space in the lower deck was considerably lessened. Scarcely had we done so when the second part of yesterday's gale came on, and we were again reduced to very small sail, and so continued during the night. Friday J 7 th. — Weather more moderate, but still rt in |g 11 " BASILISK " AND " DESPERATE " PART COMPANY. 15 looked threatening. At 10 p.m. we observed a faint appearance of Aurora to the westward. Saturday^ Sth. — This morning, the wind having again subsided, signal was made to have letters for England ready. During the forenoon they were taken on board the steamers. At 11*30 a.m. the " Basilisk " and " Desperate " gave three hearty cheers to each vessel of the squadron, which were as heartily responded to on our side, they then altered course for Old England, and at 2 p. m. were out of sight. Towards evening the weather again assumed a threatening appearance, which, accompanied by a falling barometer, led us to expect another breeze ; nor were we disappointed, as on Sunday f dtk^ at noon, the breeze from S. W. had increased to a moderate gale, with heavy squalls, which obliged us to heave-to, and house topgallant- masts. Tuesday, 11th, — The wind during the night had decreased and shifted gradually by way of S. and E. to N.E., bringing with it a pleasant sun- shine and fine weather, such as we had not enjoyed for some time. Wednesday J 12th. — Weather fine ; ship near the position assigned to the sunken land of Bus, dis- covered by, and named after, the "Busse" of Bridge- ir li h* V' 'i H 16 THE SUNKEN LAND OF BUS. ]l'J water on her return from the ill-fated third voyage of Frobishcr in 1578. In consequence of the report of her captain, the land of Bus was inserted in the chart ; it is described as being " fertile, full of wood,, and a fine champaign country." It was, however, never seen afterwards, and people were in consequence divided in opinion re- specting its authenticity ; some believing the whole report to be a fabrication, whilst others, taking into consideration the resemblance between it and the description of an island visited by Antonio Zeno in 1384-94, were inclined to place faith in its having once existed, and attributed its disappearance to an earthquake. The latter opinion appears to have derived addi- tional support from the fact of soundings having been obtained on a bank in the immediate neigh- bourhood of its assumed situation.* Thursday y ISth — Sir Edward Belcher, accom- panied by Dr. Lyall, came on board to visit Captain Kellett, who for some days had been con- fined to his cot, being seriously indisposed. Wind and weather during the day variable ; ba- rometer began to fall. * Barrow's Chronological History of Voyages to the Arctic Seas. UEMARKS ON THE CURRENT. 17 Friday y 14^A. — During the uftoriioon the Vind gradually increased from N., and veering round at night to N.E. blew a strong gale, whicli at 11 p.m. carried away our bentinck boom. Saturday^ 15M. — Last night was by far the most uncomfortable we had yet experienced, the uneasy motion of the ship not only prevented any one enjoying rest, but did considerable damage to our crockery. In the course of the day the wind fell, and we were again subjected to alter- nate calms and variable airs. On looking over Graah's Greenland, I find he is very decided respecting the current, which he states " undoubtedly runs to the eastward between the parallels of 57° and 58°." (p. 20.) Now our observations would tend to prove the existence of a westerly current ; for although, like Graah, we experienced westerly gales, the longitude, by dead reckoning, was invariably to the eastward of that by observation ; this discrepancy could not be attributed either to the glass or log, for the accuracy of the former was frequently tested, whilst the latter agreed with the patent log, which was kept over from the day we left the Orkneys. I agree with him in thinking there is a northerly :i !■ !; I •ff j hi \l 18 OFF CAPE FAREWELL. current, the strength of which depends in a great measure on the winds. Tuesday IS th. — For the last few days we have had moderate, but variable winds. At noon we found ourselves nearly due south of Cape Farewell, distant about 100 miles, which is considered a good offing by the whalers, who dread nearing the Cape, in consequence of the heavy "washing pieces," which are to be met with in its vicinity. A "washing piece," according to the whaling definition, is a piece of ice (varying in size) broken from a berg, by the combined action of the winds and waves, and floating only a few feet above the water. Now it must be evident, even to an un- professional mind, that on dark nights, and in a heavy gale, it would be difficult to distinguish the crested top of a wave, from a " washing or strag- gling piece," striking which would, in all probability prove fatal to the ship and crew ; for although the ice may only be a few feet above, it would be many feet below the surface. The specific gravity of ice as determined by actual experiment, is as nearly as possible J; therefore if only four feet be above the level, there would be twenty-eight feet below, the whole form- ire In- WASHINO OR STRAGGLING PIECES. 19 ing a solid mass, almost as hard as rock, of thirty- two feet in depth. Connected with this subject, one of our ice- quarter-masters (Collins) who has been employed in the Greenland trade for many years, related the following interesting but melancholy tale, which illustrates too faithfully the dangers to which our adventurous countrymen are exposed. The " Shannon " of Hull, when outward bound, fell in with a gale of wind, about 200 miles N. W. of Cape Farewell. At midnight the ship was under snug sail, but the dark masses of heavy clouds, driving across a wild looking sky, cast a dense shadow on the heaving sea, relieved only by the snowy crest of the toppling waves. The watch had just been relieved, when a fearful crash told the awful tale, — the ship had struck a " washing piece ! " the bows of the ill- fated ship were stove in instantaneously, and horrible to relate, the men of the watch below, who had just lain down, were crushed to death by the ice, whose progress was at length arrested by the foremast. The men on deck rushed to the rigging, but the ship commenced filling; and falling over on her broadside. launched the men on that side of c2 • i ,■: 20 LOSS OF THE "SHANNON." the rigging into eternity. Few only now survived, and they were in momentary expectation of the ship sinking; fortunately she did not*, but they remained in this fearful state of suspense for many days, and were obliged to have recourse to sucking their own and each other's blood to sustain life. They were eventually rescued by a Danish vessel, and landed at Elsinore, where my informant then was. Strange to say, the Captain of the Danish vessel had for several nights dreamt some dreadful catastrophe had befallen a ship, in a certain lati- tude and longitude, and this vision had such an effect on his mind, as to induce him to steer in the direction pointed out, although quite out of his course ; which was usually along the coast, as they were accustomed to call at all the settlements. If the assigned cause for his altering course be true, the result proved the special interposition of Providence. • I can only attribute her not sinking to the buoyancy of the casks on board. a ie 21 CHAP. II. First sight of Ice and Land. — West Coast of Greenland laid down incorrectly. — Experience a sudden Squall. — Arrive at the Whale-Fidh Islands. — Their Value to Denmark. — Esquimaux Costume. — Visit Kron-Prins Islands. — The Burial Ground. — Esquimaux Canoe. — Leave Whale-Fish Islands. — Arrive off Godhaven. — " Pioneer " fouls a Berg Arrive at Lievely. — Each Ship grounds. — The "Reso- lute's" Ball. — Settlement of Lievely. — The town of Lievely. — Thursday^ 20th. — At 4 a.m. the first berg was seen, about eighty miles S.E. of Cape Desolation, and was gazed at with great interest by those who now saw ice for the first time. During the day some " washing pieces " were seen as well as a few bottle-nosed whales. The wind during the day was westerly, but towards night drew round to south, with light winds and misty weather. Friday^ 2l5^. — Wind S.E., increased at 8 a.m. to a moderate gale, with thick misty weather, and a heavy fall of snow, which rendered it necessary to keep a more than ordinary look-out for ice- bergs, many of which we passed close to, looming like so many islands through the mist. c 3 22 FIRST SIGHT OF LAND. I !l At 10 A.M. we caught a glimpse of the land, but only for a few minutes ; the thick Aveather again hid it from our view, and prevented our ascertaining its locality. Towards evening the wind moderated and veered round to N.E. ; the barometer fell to 30**, and we all felt the cold searching wind, which brought with it the temperature of those eternal glaciers over which it must have swept. For some days past we have been visited by several species of land birds ; we succeeded in en- trapping several; one of them proved to be a red-pole {Sylvicola petechia), all the others were snow buntings {Emheriza nivalis) clad in their summer plumage. \Ve have also observed looms ( u4 /copz'ca ), moUemauks (Procellaria glacialis), kitty- wakes (Larus tridactylus), and other birds which frequent the coast of Greenland. Sunday, 23ni — Wind S. and S.E. with a heavy fall of snow, and cold weather, which continued during the whole day. Monday, 2A.ih. — At daylight, observed the land, composed of high and rugged snow-clad peaks, extending from E.N.E. to S.E. Found the longitude, at noon, to be 52* 18' W., which placed us a mile or two on shore according: to the chart. EXPERIENCE A SUDDEN SQUALL. 28 Last voyage we found nearly the whole coast of Greenland laid down several miles to the westward of its actual position. About 5 P. M., being about ten miles off shore, with light easterly winds, we suddenly encountered a heavy northerly swell, which caused all the vessels to plunge heavily ; we could only account for it by supposing we were on a bank, but we failed in obtaining soundings with sixty fathoms. Tuesday, 2bth. — During the night we had made but little progress, in consequence of light winds. At noon we found we had been set to the northward about ten miles, and our position obtained from good observations again placed us on shore, although we were at least ten miles off the nearest land. During the day an ace imulation of dense masses of clouds hovered over the mountain tops, constantly changing their position, although we had light airs. To this phenomenon we at- tributed a sudden squall from the S.W., Avhich obliged us to shorten all sail. Wednesday, 2Qth. — The wind during the night had again veered round to the northward, against which we had to contend for several days ; the time, however, was not spent unprofitably, but was devoted to completing the fittings of the various ice- c 4 ''i ri Vi I m 24 ARRIVE AT WHALE-FISH ISLANDS. instruments * of which I have subjoined a sketch, that probably will convey a better idea of their shapes and uses than pages filled with a written description. i;::|"''lli;i'l'.':!:i-ii ;! ll n; M:j..I.i, i..,..^.. :,. | , 'i .M i | ij , i .. j,,;,.^,! ' . i' l,, |! ; , ^— , i^BOH "***" "''■"■'""" ' - - ic— """ <3j>1 1, Tee saw. 2. Ice chisel. .3, Ice pole. 4. Ice anchor. .'>. Ice claws. f>. Tamping rod. Saturday, 2dth. — This morning wind light and variable, with thick misty weather. About 7 a.m. we caught a glimpse of the Whale-fish Islands, but did not anchor till 2*30. p.i. Before anchoring, we were honoured by a visit from a little fleet of canoes, and we were much amused by the dexterity displayed by the Esquimaux in throwing their spears at biscuits, suspended from boat-hooks over the gunwale of the ship. The best marksmen of course obtained the prize, which was sacredly kept for their koonahs. * Models of these may be seen in the Arctic collection pre- sented by Mr. Barrow to the British Museum. KRON-PRINS ISLAND. 25 The Whale-fish Islands are a small rocky group lying off the coast of Greenland, and are situated in lat. GS- 58' N. long. 53" 14' W. Most of the natives reside on Krbn-Prins (Crown-Prince) Island, where the chief factor, a carpenter, holds the reins of government. He, however, is only a deputy, under the Governor of Lievely (Disco), distant about sixteen miles, whose business is to collect as much oil, and as many skins, as possible from the native population. The produce of their labours is forwarded to Denmark by a government transport, which brings the necessary supplies for the various missions along the coast annually, and on her return to Denmark she is generally well freighted with seal- oil and skins. To give an idea of the importance of these stations, it will only be necessary to state the fact of no less than 1 00 tons of seal-oil being stored at Kron-Prins island alone — the value of a ton of which, in England, varies from thirty-five to forty pounds. Our little squadron, filled the small harbour in which we were anchored, — we were completely land-locked, being surrounded on all sides by pre- cipitous hills of granite, admirabty adapted for 28 ESQUIMAUX COSTUME. building purposes. The whole group is of the same formation, without any signs of vegetation, save in the valleys and clefts in the rocks, where mosses and lichens flourish for a brief period ; — a more barren or uninteresting aspect than these islands present, could not possibly be imagined. The Esquimaux found a good market on board the various ships for boots, mittens, tobacco-pouches, and minature canoes — old clothes or handker- chiefs being in exchange preferred to money. It was pleasing to remark the absence of all noise, or even gesticulation, to which most uncivilised nations are much addicted. Silk handkerchiefs were in great demand, being used as a bandeau for the brows of the koonahs, who failed not to examine the texture and size of the article, previous to the conclusion of the bargain. The Esquimaux are about the middle stature, copper- coloured, and are distinguished by the elongated eye and high prominent cheek bone of the Chinese, to whom they bear a strong resem- blance. The men are clad in jackets and trousers made out of the skin of the deer, or seal, and in the absence of caps, have attached a hood to the former ESQUIMAUX COSTUME. 27 article of clothing. Their mittens and boots are made of the same material. The costume of the women is the strangest I ever saw, excepting that of the " Bloomers," which is nothing more nor less than a modified Esquimaux dress. It consists of a sealskin frock and trousers, or rather drawers (for they do not come within six Natives — Whale- lish Islands. inches of the knee), and are ornamented down the sides by strips of brightly dyed leather. Their hair, which is of a glossy black, is carefully 28 VISIT KRON-PRINS ISLAND. turned up to the back of the head, and there secured in a peculiar knot by a piece of ribbon, the colour serving to identify the social position of the wearer ; the maidens are distinguished by a red ribbon only, whilst the married women being, I presume, " the better horse," wear any colour they please ; the fact of their wearing breeches tends to confirm this supposition. So far as we were enabled to judge, the little community are entirely free from the vices of dis- honesty and immorality, and this is to be imputed to the beneficial influence of the missionaries. I accompanied a small party of ofiicers to Kron- Prins Island, where, as I have before observed, the factor resided. Our friend received us very kindly in his summer dwelling-house, a commodious wooden building ; it consisted of one story, in which all business was transacted. On the ground floor were two small rooms set apart for domestic pur- poses, one of them contained a bed, a couple of chairs, and some badly executed prints of Danish celebrities, with most unpronounceable names ; the other appeared to be used for the double purpose of a workshop and sleeping apartment for his attendant. After inspecting his stock, consisting of deer and seal skins, and a few horns of the sea THE BURIAL GROUND. 29 unicorn, we visited his winter hut, a little better, but on the same principle as those in which the Esquimaux exist. The huts of the natives are composed entirely of turf, the lower half being below the surface of the ground. From the interior runs a long, low, narrow, and always filthy underground passage, which enables the inhabitants to keep up a com- munication with the outer world. I certainly did succeed in exploring one of these, being obliged to stoop until the posture became quite painful, but on reaching the room I was so overpowered with a compound of the most horrible smells as to be obliged to beat a hasty retreat, and as I could not again face the passage by which we entered, I took the liberty of making my exit through the window, or the apology for one, placed a little above the ground. The most interesting place on the island is the burial ground, where several boards, over pro- truding coffins, serve to point out the last resting place of some of those adventurous spirits who quit their native land to seek and kill the king of the northern seas. One of the boards bore the date of 1795, the letters being quite distinct. There was one, however, which excited more \ t' 30 THE ESQUIMAUX CANOE. attention than the rest, in consequence of the curious epitaph cut into the wood. It bore the date of 1825. The board in many places was split by the combined action of frost and sun, and it was not without some little difficulty we deciphered the following lines, which are copied verbatim. " You Mariners that pass by hero, Upon my grave let fall a tear ; Henry Markinson is my name, In the ** Albion," Captain Hill, I camo : 'Twos the month of April I came here, But did not think death was so near. On the 15th day of April It was my lot to have a fall. From the cross-trees of the main-topmast, I on the quarter-deck was cast. And was so hurtcd by the fall, My life soon after God did call." The Esquimaux canoes are well worthy of notice, being proofs alike of the ingenuity and neat work- manship of the builders. They are composed of a KSQUIMAUX IMPLEMENTS. 81 Le it it d a light framework of wood (imported from Denmark), over which well stretched seal skins are sewn, quite impervious to water. A hole large enough to admit a man's body is left in the centre of the canoe ; around this hole is placed a combing about an inch high ; this is covered by the deer- skin frock of the sitter, so that a boat fitted in this manner is not only water, but air tight. The im- plements for fishing consist of spears and knives ; the former are pointed with bone, and are thrown in a very dexterous manner by an experienced hand. The one used for seals is somewhat larger than the others ; a small line is attached to it, and then coiled on a kind of skeleton drum, one of the fix- tures of the canoe ; the other end is fastened to an inflated seal skin, this, acting as a buoy, serves to indicate the position of the seal, which always dives on being wounded. During our stay Sir Edward Belcher, assisted by the officers of the squadron, made a survey of the group ; this employed us fully during the day. At night, or what was so termed, — for the sun had ceased to sink below the horizon for some days — our sportsmen left, to shoot for the mess, and although the birds were wild and difficult to f 32 A CHAPTER OF ACCIDENTS. approach, succeeded in bagging several braces of eider-duck, looms, and dovekies. Saturday^ June 5th. — At 7 a.m. weighed, and proceeded through Boat Island Passage, towards Lievely (Disco). In consequence of light winds, we did not sight, or rather did not distinguish, the entrance until about 5 p.m., when we were favoured with a fresh north-easterly breeze. The " Assistance " now made a signal for the " Pioneer " to lead the way, but continued standing towards the port, off which she " hove-to," and despatched a boat to ascertain tlie security of the passage. About seven, two boats with Danish colours were descried coming out of the harbour, and at the same time " Assistance " bore up for them ; we also bore up, supposing that the boats with colors in the fairway to be a preconcerted signal for the vessels to close. Now follows a chapter of accidents. Whilst running in, we observed the " Pioneer " foul an iceberg (grounded in the entrance), and im- mediately afterwards her mizen-mast went by the board. But it was not until we were close to her, that we observed her hauling off from the berg by a whale-line to the shore, thus effectually blocking up the passage, save a narrow space between her a PIONEER FOULS A BEIUJ. 33 stern and the berg. This placed us somewhat in a predicament, as we did not wish to run to lee- ward of the berg, beyond which there Avere many others, that would — under present circumstances — have rendered our working to windward both difficult and dangerous. We therefore trusted to good steerage, and bore up for her stern, which we almost grazed on the one side, whilst the other cleared the projecting tongue-piece of the berg by a few feet only. %!:t,iS ,^^i'f^^^^^^^- I'iniu'cr's accUIcnt, and Uosuliito's prciliraincnt. After two or three tacks in which the old '' Resolute " did not prove remarkable for weatherly qualities, we came to an anchor in twelve fathoms, at the entrance of the outer harbour, on irregular and rocky ground. Fortunately we did not drag as the " Assii*tauce " did, she being obliged to heave her anchor up, r.nd again make sail. ' i fi i ■II : I 34 EACH SHIP GROUNDS IN SUCCESSION. Sending our boats to assist the "Pioneer," she warped up to the near point, and anchored in t\"-enty-eight fathoms. During the first watch (from 8 p.m. to mid- night) the "Assistance," "North Star" and "In- trepid," attempted to work into the inner harbour; all however failed. The " Assistance " struck on a shoal in the centre of the narrow channel, losing a part of her false keel, which floated up alongside. The " Intrepid " also struck whilst in stays, on one side of the passage. Both vessels anchored, as did also the " North Star." Sunday, 6th, — On going on deck this morning found ourselves enveloped in a dense fog, by which all the vessels of the squadron, though close to us, were hidden from our view. About nine the fog dispersed a little, and Commander M'Clintock came on board with orders fr us to remove into the inner anchorage ; the wiuu ving changed, we shifted our berth without any trouble, anchored off the town of Lievely in nine fathoms (sand), and got a stern hawser out, to a ring on shore. The " North Star " in attempting to drop in was not so fortunate, she struck on the outer point of the little harbour, and there remained — with a considerable list at low water — until 7 p.m., when ARRIVE AT GODHAVEN. 35 she hauled off and anchored in safety. The " Pioneer " also touched, but she, as well as the " Intrepid," anchored during the afternoon ; and thus our little squadron rode at last in safety, in the inner harbour of Godhaven. Sir Edward Belcher, on making his official visit to the governor, was received with a salute of three guns, mounted near the flag-staff, opposite the go- vernor's house. The salute was returned on the governor visiting the " Assistance," where he dined. Monday^ 1th. — The appearance of the hills was completely changed since yesterday, in consequence of a heavy fall of snow during the night. The mountains beneath which we lay are about 2000 feet above the level of the sea, and appeared to be inaccessible. Several of my messmates, however, started during the forenoon, for the purpose of making the attempt. About 6 P.M. we were honoured by the presence of a boat filled with the prettiest girls in Lievely ; two of them, with auburn hair, clear complexions, blue eyes, and pretty features, carried off the palm of beauty. Sophy and Marie became in consequence especial favourites, and although they, perhaps, would have appeared more to advantage in petticoats, we tried ij 2 a ;l 36 THE "RESOLUTE's" BALL. to " make believe " their present costume to be nothing more than the result of their own wayward fancy. The night was beautifully fine, the fiddler being supplied with rosin in the shape of 7 im, tuned his instrument, and played a polka. Away we started, — the girls nothing loth, — at a rapid pace along the quarter-deck. The sounds of revelry drew the attention of several officers of the other ships, who came on board, and joined in the druce. The report of a musket directed all eyes to the summit of the mountain, and by the aid of telescopes, we descried four pigmy characters, standing out in bold relief against the sky. It was very evident, from the exclamations of surprise uttered by the natives, that the ascent was consi- dered a great feat. Our impromptu ball did not conclude till near midnight, and even then we were obliged to give the fair creatures a hint that we were not licensed beyond that hour. The following day, Tuesday the 8tli, many of the officers of the squadron were employed surveying the harbour and its entrance. In the evening we held a little fete at the house of the fair Sophy. The room was perhaps fifteen feet square, and in it were congregated about thirty j SETTLEMENT OF LIEVELY. 87 persons, the majority of whose garments were made of seal, or deer skin ; this fact, and I say it with all due deference to the wearers, who weie princi- pally ladies, was not conducive to our comfort, we were therefore obliged to have recourse to the open air, where we danced until near midnight, and then, quite worn out with fatigue, repaired on board. The settlement of Lievely consists of about six wooden houses and several Esquimaux huts ; in the two largest of the houses reside the inspector and the governor. The former, who is said to be inspec- tor of all the settlements, was absent on an official tour, but the latter assisted us as much as lay in his power in our endeavours to obtain boots, and other necessaries for travelling. The huts at Lievely are better built and m 'cL cleaner than those^^t the Whale-fish Islands. Indeed the whole population, about 200, appeared to be in a more flourishing condition, which no doubt is to be at- tributed to their being under the immediate eye of those in authority. D a 38 CHAP. III. Land to obtain Coal. — Find the Waygat Channel blocked. — Bergs very numerous. — Sight Sanderson's Hope. — Arrival at Uppernavik. — Encounter a Gale. — Termination of the Gale. — Leave Uppernavik. — Sight of the Sugar-Loaf. — Dense Fogs. — Amusement on the Ice. — Sad Fate of two Dogs. — Sustain a heavy Nip. — The Rudder crushed by Ice. — Cut into Dock.— The Wreck of the " Regalia."— The Pleasures of Wrecking. — Speak the " St. Andrew " of Aber- deen. — Join a Fleet of Whalers. — A few Words on Dock- cutting. — Benefit derived by using Powder. Thursday^ lOiJi. — Wind fresh from easterly, with gloomy weather. At 7 a.m. the signal was made to "weigh;" at 8 tripped our anchor and ran out of harbour, and hove-to outside for "Assistance." About 10 " Assistance " and " North Star " joined compan}'^, and w^ commenced working along the coast to the eastward under all plain sail, Sir Edward's intention being to go through the Way- gat Channel, a route with which we were all pleased. LAND TO OBTAIN COAL. 89 r" i« Friday J llth. — The wind, which had been moderate all night, became light during the day, and eventually cairn. Whilst at Lievely we were informed that coal was to be obtained on the beach, about twenty miles to the eastward of the settlement ; about 8 r.M. being abreast of the place indicated, boats were despatched from each ship, well provided with bags intended to be filled with coal, but either we were at fault, or the informant had named the wrong locality, for not a single lump did we obtai: . The "Pioneer" was however more fortunate, for though she did not succeed in discovering coal, she filled her boat with drift-wood, a good sub- stitute. The sportsmen taking their guns, and passage in the boats, succeeded in bagging a brace of ptarmigan, a few tern, a brace of snipe^ and a little redpole. Saturday^ 12th. — Wind fresh from N. W., work- ing to windward through the Waygat Channel; numerous strangely shaped bergs in sight ; at noon entered brash ice, which became more compact the further we advanced to the northward. At I p.m. we observed the " Assistance " — then several miles to windward of our position — bear up and make the general recall. Awaiting her closing we bore up D 4 40 FIND WAYGAT CHANNEL BLOCKED. in company, and at four found ourselves once more becalmed. Probably in no part of the world does nature display more grandeur in her works than on the coast of Greenland. True, no towering pines crown the hill, nor are the valleys filled with verdure, but here, amidst a desolation, grand in the extreme, nature may be truly said to reign triumphant. Precipitous cliffs, themselves mountains, rise out of an unfathomable sea, and are surmounted by the snow of ages, never yet trodden by the foot of man. Deep chasms filled with accumulated snow, form the building-yards from whence are launched into the deep, those floating crystal towers, which are at once the fear and admiration of those who brave the dangers of the Arctic Ocean. Truly those who "go down into the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters, these men see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep." Light winds, and unpleasant weather prevented our making much progress for several days. At length, on Wednesday^ 16^A, we found ourselves abreast of Hare Island (situated about midway between Disco and the main), in the northern entrance of the Wavofit Channel. BERGS VERY NUMEROUS. 41 Here, according to the testimony of our ice quartermasters, coal is to be obtained, but in what quantities I could not ascertain. From Hare Island extended numerous streams of loose ice to the westward ; whilst inshore, and across the entrance of the channel, we observed what appeared to be closely packed ice. At this time bergs of every size and shape lay strewn around us \\\ all directions, and on attempt- ing to count them, they proved to be innumerable. Early in the afternoon we passed through a perfect labyrinth of those huge floating islands, and all the ships of the squadron took a barrier of stream ice, that lay in our course, in gallant style. Passing through several streams of loose packed ice, we found ourselves at 8 p.m. once more in open water. Thursday, 17th. — Sighted Black Hook, and with a gentle southerly wind, ran to the northward close along Storoe Island, and Dark Head. About 11 P.M. it fell a perfect calm, but we still passed rapidly along the land to the northward, the result of tide, or current. Friday, ISth Wind light from N.E. with thick fog ; about 2 p. m. sighted the land near Sanderson's Hope, towards which we stood in com- pany with tlic squadron. 4S AUUIVAL AT UPPERNAVIK. Saturday^ Vdth. — FouTid ourselves off Upper- navik. It struck me as bein'^ providential that none of tlie vessels grounded on any of the oflF- lying rocks, (many of them just awash,) which abound in such numbers in the immediate vicinity of this settlement. By far the best way in is to keep the high land about Sanderson's Hope close aboard, and pass between it and the first, or southern island. The only dangers to be avoided are two flat off-lying rocks a few feet above the water, to the southward of, but near the fairway of the channel recom- mended. After passing these rocks, the passage to abreast of the town is clear of dangers, although I should recommend, as a matter of precaution, a good look-out to be kept from the mast-head ; lead, of course, constantly going. The rocks, which are sprinkled plentifully enough between the islands, can easily be avoided in fine weather, for nature has buoyed them with berg- pieces, which, being aground, serve to show the position of the danger ; they cannot therefore be too narrowly watched, and should not be approached too close. About 7 A. M. made fast to a berg off the town, and half a cable's length from some rocks awash. ENCOUNTEU A GALE. 43 The breeze at this time began to increase from the southward, accompanied by thick misty weather. The " Pioneer " secured astern of us, the remaining vessels of the squadron anchored. About 5 P.M. I went on board the " Pioneer " to spend an hour, intending to return before eight, the hour appointed for our departure ; about seven however, the wind increased to a strong gale, with very heavy squalls, and thick snow. In one of the squalls the " Resolute " broke adrift, and fouling the " Pioneer " carried away her own jibboom, and the latter's foretopmast. Fortunately no other damage was done, and the " Resolute," passing astern, made sail. The *' Pioneer " being obliged to slip and make sail, fully occupied her small crew ; and, much to my annoyance, I saw the chances were against my rejoining my ship that night. About 8 P.M. the snow became so thick as to prevent our being able to see beyond fifty yards from the ship; this contributed to render our situation anything but enviable, for in addition to the rocks I have alluded to, in the preceding page, the bergs were numerous. We now bore up in the " Pioneer " for an offing, Lieut. -Commander Slierard Osborn preferred run- ^i'ii tl^' ^, ^^ .o:^^^^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) iji 1.0 ■tt l&i 12.2 1^ 12.0 \\2S i 1.4 ^ Photographic Sdmces Corporation as WBT MAM STRHT VKMSTM, N.Y. 14SM (71«)«7a-4503 >^% 4^ 44 TERMINATION OF THE GALE. ning a gauntlet between the dangers — beyond which he was sure of being comparatively safe — to stand- ing off and on an unknown shore in such a night. Shortly after bearing up, we passed the " Resolute " standing in under very small canvas. Soon afterwards two rocks were discovered on the lee bow, and until we passed them, within a very short (distance, it was a question whether or not the vessel would weather them ; providentially she did so, for had we struck, no eairlily power could have saved us. The snow at this time almost blinded us, and as it froze immediately it fell, we were soon encased in an icy covering. Steam was now got up, and about 11* 30 p.m. the gale and snow abated a little in violence. Inwardly thank- ing God for our preservation, we steamed slowly out to seaward. All my thoughts now turned to the " Resolute," about whose safety 1 naturally felt very anxious. At length, at 2 a.m., Sunday, 20th, she was de- scried from the deck ; and I was most thankful to find her safe. At this time it was quite calm ; scarcely a trace of the storm existed, save where the snow had lodged on the land, whose appearance was mate- rially altered in consequence. At three, 1 returned LEAVE UPPERNAVIK. 45 on board, and found I was not the only absentee, for no less than three of my messmates were on shore at the time of her sudden departure, and of course unable to rejoin. During the day we experienced light Avinds, and a dense fog which at times limited our visible ho- rizon to about 100 yards. A little before noon we received a visit from a Dane, and several Esquimaux men and women, who resided on an island some distance to the northward of Uppernavik. Al- though Sunday, we did a little " truck " with them in the way of boots. About 5 P.M. the fog lifted for a short time, and we then observed the other vessels under weigh, and our boat, which had been despatched during the forenoon with letters, pulling towards us. In her were the absentees, bringing with them a neat dog-sledge purchased at the village, and several valuable specimens of plumbago from an island in the immediate vicinity of Sanderson's Hope. Sir E. Belcher now determined upon threading his way between the Woman's Islands, and the result proved it to be by far the best route we could have taken ; for although we had to " bore " through considerable streams of loose pack ice, and 46 SIGHT THE SUGAR-LOAF. laboured under the disadvantage of not seeing the land through the thick mist: we found ourselves quite clear at noon on Monday, where we entered what in arctic navigation is considered quite an open sea. Towards the evening it became calm, and so con- tinued during the night, during which we were drifted to the northward at the rate of one mile and a half an hour. Tuesday i 22nd. — At noon to-day we found our- selves abreast of the high and precipitous head- land known as Cape Shackleton. The depth of Kingston Bay was visible, whilst beyond it, to the northward, a remarkable peak, the Sugar-loaf of the chart, but known to the whalers as the Kettle- bottom, was hailed as an old friend by many of us, calling to mind, as it did, many little incidents that had occurred whilst it was in sight during the last expedition. Sir Edward having ordered the tenders to get up steam, the squadron was taken in tow at 3*30 P.M., and thus, with furled sails and squared yards, we proceeded silently but swiftly to the northward. As usual, the weather at night became foggy. DENSE FOGS. 47 which rendered great precaution necessary, being in the immediate neighbourhood of the Three Isles of Baffin, one of Avhicli we descried at 8 a.m. on Wednesday, 23?y/, being distant less than a quarter of a mile. At this time, the vessels, though only a pistol-shot apart, were not visible to each other, but we distinctly heard the several orders issued, and recognised the voice of the speaker. Being surrounded by very loose ice, we scarcely knew which way to turn, and our anxiety, as may be imagined, was not decreased by the man in the chains reporting nine fathoms rocky bottom. We were now slowly drifting to the southward, with an extensive horizon of about fifty yards ! The water in a few casts shoaled to six fathoms and a half, and with it our hopes of being extricated, without some acci- dent, lessened, but the cry of nine, seventeen, and twenty fathoms (no bottom) again reassured us. At noon the latitude obtained by Sir Edward Belcher on a berg proved to be 74° 5' N. The dense fog by which we were surrounded, though not extending higher than our mast-heads, con- tinued without once lifting, even for the briefest period of time during the whole day. A good look- out was kept as we threaded our way through the 48 AMUSEMENTS ON THE ICE. V) i; i I narrow leads of w.itcr, but with all our precaution we coulcl not distinguish any of the numerous bergs we passed, until within 100 yards, when their bright summits towering over our comparatively fragile vessels, warned us to avoid such a dangerous locality. At 11 p.m. we were obliged to make fast, having reached the termination of the lead, but not for some time after did we observe a friendly berg, within eighty yards of our position. Here we remained drifting, with the floe -berg in company, until 11 a.m. on Thursday, 24th, when the fog having cleared a little, (after continuing thirty-two hours,) we again saw our friend the Sugar-loaf, and by observations at noon found our- selves in exactly the same latitude as yesterday. At 8 P.M. made fast to a floe. The weather being fine the scene on the ice became quite ani- mated ; most of the men resorted to the floe, and there amused themselves in various ways. Leap-frog, cricket, and foot-ball were the favourite games, and loud and hearty laughter resounded across the icy field, disturbing the little rotges in their flight to the northward, much to the annoy- ance of our sportsmen. All were happy, and the chiefs of the expedition must have experienced great pleasure as spectators of a scene, in which AMUSEMENTS OX THE ICE. 4!> officers and men were enjoying tliemsclves uneler such novel circumstances. AinuscmcnU nn tli Ice. 11*30 found ourselves drifting on to an iceberg ; we therefore cast off and proceeded in tow of steamers. I had almost forgotten to speak of the fate of two dogs, which together with nine others were obtained at Lievely, and distributed between the ships. The dogs as well as the men were allowed a run on the ice during our forced stoppage. All of them returned on the expiration of tlieir leave, E f > , aa SAD FATE OV TWO DOGS. except the two above-mentioned : preferring death to slavery, they would not allow themselves to be captured, although the vessels were detained, and every endeavour used to get them; they were, therefore, left to their fate — which was indeed a sad one — on the moving floe. Friday, 26th Wind westerly, with another fog. At 5 A.M. made fast to a floe piece, and there remained till 3 p.m., when we again proceeded in tow as before. Shortly after moving we were sur- prised to hear the bowlings of dogs on the floe. A boat was despatched, and there sure enough were the dogs, but as intractable as on the pre- vious evening. Being foggy, the boat was soon recalled, and bidding a last adieu to the poor animals, we steamed onward. Some part of the " Intrepid's " machinery having become deranged she was obliged to cast ofl', and passing astern, made fast to the " North Star." At 5 p. M. she again resumed her station ahead. We were now abreast of the Devil's Thumb, standing out in "bold relief against the eternal glacier as a background. An immense number of bergs lay grounded near the shore, whilst, in many places, the glacier edge, extending to the SUSTAIN A HEAVY NIP. 51 sea, terminatetl in an icy clift' many Imndred feet in height, and several miles in length. Like Sinbad's old man, the fog clung to us ; but with light variable airs we pushed on, taking the most northerly leads along what we fondly con- ceived to be the land floe. Saturday^ 26//i. — At 5*30 p.m. wc arrived at the end of the lead and made fast to the floe ; the wind at this time was light from S.W., with gloomy misty weather. At 11 p.m. the floes closed, and the ship sustained a heavy " nip," which carried away the rudder. Diagram of the " Hciolutc's" Nip. The pressure at times was so great as to cause the ship to careen over 35°, at the same time im- parting a quivering motion to the hull, which rung all the bells, a peal that was far from pleasant under existing circumstances. The stern of the vessel was raised seven feet above the surface, and p. 2 52 PERILOUS rOSTTIOX. as some doubts of her righting were entertained, the boats were hauled up on the ice. At midnight the various vessels began to cut into dock, and as it was evident no human effort could release the old craft, the men were sent to work with the " Assistance's." In a short time the edge of the ice presented quite an animated scene, with the crews of the various ships cutting through the ice, with huge saws, to a musical, but somewhat noisy chorus. The saws, varying from fourteen to sixteen feet. were worked by whips attached to a pendant rove through a gin, which was hooked to o shackle, CUT INTO DOCK. 63 supported by a bolt rove through the heads of three spars, forming a triangle. Sunday y at 3*30 a.m., the heavy pressure ceased, the ship was consequently released, and became upright. The rudder was now unshipped, and hauled on the floe, when we found that both wood- work and iron had been unable to withstand the powers of the ice. The main piece (formed of oak) was broken in two, whilst the back and filling piece of deal were crushed into splinters; which a wag suggested would come in for toothpicks. One of the braces was gone altogether, the bolts of another were drawn, and all suiFered more or less. At 4*30, the dock being completed, we hauled into it, alongside the " Assistance." After getting the spare rudder up to be prepared for shipping, we retired to rest about six, and the pressure must have been hard indeed to have aroused us from the trance-like sleep into which we soon fell. No opportunity of leaving our present position occurred till the following day, at 10 a.m. when the squadron commenced tracking, and continued till 4 P.M., when we were again obliged to make fast. Tuesday^ 2dth. — At 6 a.m., observed a barque i: 3 54 THE WRECK OF THE " REGALIA." and brig to the westward. During the day we moved a short distance, but were stopped by a barrier, to clear which tlie crews were despatched, but without success. Wednesday 30th. — At 0*30 a.m. moved onwards in tow of the tenders. At seven, observed the wreck of a vessel close to the floe edge along which we were steaming. Securing the ship close to, all hands turned out with axes, saws, crowbars, and every available instrument, and commenced such an attack on the remains of the vessel, as would have induced a spectator to imagine they had been brought up as wreckers from their infancy. The vessel proved to be the " Regalia " of Kircaldy; she had evidently not removed from the spot where we found her, for spars, rope and stores of various descriptions, lay around on the ice, whilst the still smouldering fire * proved she had met her fate within the last few days. The hull lay close to the floe edge, with some ten or twelve feet of the starboard bow out of * It is customary to set whalers on fire — a very senseless and wanton proceeding — when all hope of their being saved is gone. How much might not the poor Esquimaux be benefited by the drift timber ! THE PLEASURES OF WRECKING. 55 water; and was no doubt prevented from sinking by the pent-up air within the body of the ship. After taking as many spars and other articles as were likely to prove useful, Sir Edward Belcher determined upon blowing her up. She was accord- ingly towed to a short distance from the vessels, and a 20-pound charge, with Bickford's fuze attached, sunk in the fore-peak. In a few minutes the powder exploded, without creating nmch effect, and after a few lazy rolls she slowly disappeared, not however without leaving the surface of the "water strewn with the fragments of the ill-fated "Kegalia." No sooner had she sunk than boats appeared as if by magic, ready manned, and pulling towards the spot from whence she had departed, hoping to obtain a little " loot " (spoil) from the lost whaler. Casks, staves, planks, &c., occasionally ascended to the surface, and were seized on with avidity by those near ; particularly the former, some of which proved to be full, and although it was impossible to ascertain their contents in the water, the imagi- nation of the victors filled them with rum or beer, and thus they were towed alongside in triumph. But, alas ! their hopes were doomed to be disap- pointed, for the casks contained suit water only ! n 4 ^ 56 THE " ST. ANDREW " OF ABERDEEN. a fact which when made known elicited peals of laughter from their shipmates. Making one of a small party of officers in the dingy, we threaded our way amongst the pieces of the wreck, and succeeded in bagging a con- siderable number of turnips, (overlooked by the crews of the contending boats,) which tended to improve the flavour of our Irish stews for several weeks. • ^ The only satisfied spoilers were the moUemauks, revelling in the oily sea, and making a delicious repast on the minute particles of blubber strewn around. This amusement having lasted about an hour, the boats returned on board laden with fire- wood, which was not to be despised, and each ship obtained sufficient staves to establish an enter- prising cooper in a respectable line of business. Whilst employed on the remains of the " Regalia'* we descried a barque, about four miles distant, coming towards us under sail. She proved to be the " St. Andrew," of Aberdeen ; from her we learnt the main fleet of whalers was but a short distance ahead. Taking her in tow, we proceeded and about 7 P.M. observed the whaling squadron docked in the land floe. --^^^t 1*4 < a; < C5 \ . < O CO a: • :• J JOIN A FLEET OF WHALERS. 57 On Hearing the vessels, all their crews, amount- ing to upwards of 500 men, assembled on the ice, and with banners displayed, and music playing, greeted each vessel with three hearty cheers on passing. This was a pleasing incident in our voyage. flaking fast close to the whalers, we commenced cutting into dock, and the " Resolute " in the short space of fifty minutes had cleared her dock, and after the lapse of another twenty minutes was secured within it, much to the surprise of the loungers from the whalers, who appeared greatly astonished at the effects produced by several small charges of powder, sunk in a meat canister prepared for the purpose, to assist in loosening the mass of ice, after the cutting was completed. As the general reader can form but an indistinct idea of cutting a dock, a few words on the subject may prove interesting. To render my meaning intelligible, I have annexed a diagram of the Resolute's dock on this occasion, drawn to scale ; the average thickness of the ice being four feet. The great danger to be feared whilst navigating Baffin's Bay, is being nipped between two " floes " of ice. A vessel so situated is in great danger of having her sides crushed, as in the case of the " Regalia ; " for the progress of the moving ice ' 'a 'I -&; 58 A FEW WORDS ON DOCK-CUTTING. increases with wind or current, and rarely does the work of man prove capable of resisting its pressure. There is generally along the land a body of com- pact ice fixed to the shore, occasionally extending many miles to seaward ; this is termed the land floe, the edge of which — unless compelled by ad- verse fortune — is never quitted by the experienced Arctic navigator, for two reasons ; viz., 1st, keep- injr the land floe " aboard " facilitates navigation. The mass of ice to seaward, consisting of moving fields, and floes of ice, is called the Pack. Now it must be evident, whenever the wind is blowing off shore, the pack will move in the same direction, whilst the land floe remains fixed ; a channel is thus formed between the two bodies, through which the vessel may be sailed, warped, or tracked as cir- cumstances admit. 2nd, The land floe is a harbour of refuge. For supposing the wind should come from seaward, the pack will move with it, and thus endanger the safety of the ship by " nipping " or pressing her against the land floe. To avoid this, all hands commence cutting a dock in the land ice : here the ship rides securely; for the approach- ing enemy, the pack, is opposed by the edge of the friendly land floe, which almost invariably proves A FEW WORDS ON DOCK-CUTTINO. 5U stronger than its adversary, thus verifying tlie truth of the old saying that " union is strength." And now for the diagram. By the time the various crews of the triangles have prepared their saws, &c., the carpenters have marked out the dimensions of the dock, and the lines intended to be cut, viz. a b c d and the diagonal E F. When the sawing is completed, the two pieces of ice, a a and h t, are loosened by being jumped on, and (if possible) passed out whole. It however frequently happens that minor cuts are requisite to loosen the mass. To avoid the time and labour attending such a process, we employed an admirable substitute in the shape of powder. The preserved meat tins being prepared for the purpose, were filled, or partly so, with powder, connected Avith which was a piece of Bickford's fuze (supplied for the purpose) passed through the cork; a good coating of luting, or tallow, rendered the case water-tight. Holes having been bored where desirable, the charges — after lighting the fuse — were lowered a few feet below the ice, being suspended in that position by a piece of spun yarn to a boat hook, or a piece of ice. The explosion generally broke the floe for some k GO A FEW WORDS ON DOCK-CUTTING. distance around, enabling the pieces to be passed out with but little trouble. Care should be taken not to have the charges too great, as they may weaken the ice beyond the dock. We found that charges of two and four pounds were the most serviceable, when placed as marked in diagram. MOVIXO PACK. eorr r»i CHAP. IV, Constantly on tlio move. — The ** M'Lcllnn "siiftVrs from a Nip. — Irt hovo down ami etfoctually repaired. — Loss oC tho " M'Lellnn." — Wlmlcrs move to the Southward. — Strange EfltH'ts of Mira<»e. — Separated from the *' Assistance " and "Pioneer." — Novel Amusement on a Berg. — North Wiitor in Sight. — Enter the North Water. — Communicate Avith Esqui- maux. — At Cape York. — A few Words about tho Esqui- maux. — Part Company with " Alexander." — Progn>sf? through Lancaster Soun we were obliged to make fast again at the end of the lead, in company with the whalers. Scarcely had we completed the dock when we were again on the move. The following day, Tuesday, was a suc- cession of cutting, and hauling in and out of dock. Nothing could be more laborious to the men than work of this description. No sooner would the dock be completed, and the vessel secured, rudder unshipped, and a fair prospect of a few hours' rest, than a narrow lead would invite us to proceed, and all the hurry, bustle, and confusion of getting under weigh, ensued as a matter of course. However, by 11'30 p. m., we came to the end of the lead, and by 2 a. m. on Wednesday, the 7th, were docked alongside " Assistance." Whilst in the act of cutting, the floes began to close, and the ships narrowly escaped being shut out from the advantages of the dock. Our friends to the north- ward of us were not so fortunate, for thinking the closing only temporary, they made for the extreme of the lead in hopes of being able to push through to some open water beyond. In this however they were mistaken, and they were consequently beset, without being able to cut docks, or more properly, without room to clear them, . " M'LELLAN " SUTFERS FROM A NIP. 63 The pressure gradually became greater, and at 8 A.M. we observed the American barque " M'Lellan," the most northern of the fleet, to be severely nipped, and heeling over to port. Her crew, as well as those of all the whalers in her vicinity, were removing their valuables to the boats, drawn up at a safe distance from the ships. A body of men, including the carpenters, were immediately despatched to render assistance. We found the pressure had been principally on the port side, a little before the mainmast, and the broken masses, passing under her bottom, had been ar- rested by the keel ; this caused her to careen, and pressed her starboard side against the floe. We found four of her timbers, on the starboard side, below the water line, broken ; and she had four feet water in the hold, but no other damages had occurred. Our men were now divided into several parties, and placed where their services were most useful. Some at the pumps, others hoisting out provisions to get at the leak, whilst another party were getting up purchases, to heave the vessel down to the ice. The crew of the whaler, following the good example set them by our men, and probably feeling not a little ashamed at having deserted her r>4 EFFORTS TO SAVE TTTE " m'lELLAN." Ij; I :i, so soon, returned on board, and materially assisted in reducing the quantity of water in the hold. Into two holes in the ice, abreast of her fore and mainmasts, were inserted two strong toggles, to the straps of which her masthead-tackles were hooked, and with them she was with great ease hove down far enough to admit of her side being strengthened. At 7 P.M. she was as sound as ever, the leak having been effectually stopped by our carpenters, and the crew commenced hoisting in, and stowing away the provisions, hoping yet to cross the Atlantic in their ship. ^ Thursday f Sth. — At 5 A. m. the American was again nipped, and the pressure became so heavy, as to leave little doubt of her having experienced very serious injury. A five minutes' pressure undid all that was done yesterday. Her side was crushed, the water rushed in, and it soon became apparent that the " M'Lellan " was a doomed ship. It must not be supposed that the other vessels were in perfect security during this period. On the contrary all of them sustained nips more or less violent, and the crews had made every neces- sary preparation to abandon them. It was novel, but interesting, to gaze on so many vessels in a state isisted I. : •e and es, to were ; ease being ! leak nters, Dwing s the 1 was vy,as I very id all Lshed, •arent essels On re or leces- lovel, state ^iMii p fX P- 4 ' n LOSS OF THE " M*LELLAN." 65 of utter helplessness, careening and fouling each other in every possible direction, whilst their crews, standing beside their boats and clothes on the ice, smoked their pipes like perfect philosophers, as all men who frequent Baffin's Bay should be. It is worthy of remark, that the ships which suffered most injury on this occasion were docked together, a process to be avoided, in my opinion, unless circumstances render it unavoidable. Seeing the loss of the vessel to be inevitable, the Captain gladly availed himself of the offer of Sir Edward Belcher, to take charge of the ship and her contents, after she was abandoned. The English ensign and pendant were accordingly hoisted, and a few marines with muskets, as a safeguard, had a wonderful effect on the Baffin's Bay population, who growled not a little at our having prevented their usual privilege of plundering the wreck, and holding a drunken soiree on the ice. A part of the crew from each ship of the squadron were now employed every day in clearing the ship of provisions, spars, sails, &c., for all of which bills were given on the English Govern- ment. The loss of the " M'Lellan " took place in lat. 75° 22' N. long. 61° 33' W. On the 15th Sylvester's stove was lighted with 66 WHALERS MOVE TO SOUTHWARD. A '*■ the most beneficial results. Every part of the ship was thoroughly dried, and the temperature through- out much increased— sick bay, 65°, lower deck, 77°, Captain's cabin, 75°. On Friday, 16th, obtained the meridian altitude, which placed us in latitude 75° 9' N., being thirteen miles to the southward of our position on the 14th, although the relative positions of all the vessels were the same as before. A continuation of strong southerly winds and dark gloomy weather, kept us firmly fixed in our icy prison until Wednesday 2 1st, when the meri- dian altitude placed us in latitude 75° 15' N. About noon on this day (which was much warmer, and altogether finer than we had experienced for some time) all the whalers, with the exception of the " Alexander " of Dundee, began to move to the southward, whilst we, taking advantage of the somewhat slackened state of the pack, began warp- ing, towing, and tracking to the northward, in company with the before-mentioned whaler. The following day we lost sight of the whalers and " Assistance " in a dense fog, which continued without a single break till midnight on the 24th when the thick mist by which we were surrounded was lifted as if by magic, disclosing to us a mag- nificent panoramic view of Melville Bay. STRANGE EFFECTS UF MIRAGE. 67 A more beautiful or impressive sight could not well be imagined; not a breath disturbed the serenity of the glass-like surface of the sea, whilst the arctic midnight sun " setting into sunrise," shone with unusual brightness, and even warmth, from a perfectly cloudless sky of the most intense blue, giving promise of a glorious day. The scene around was at once grand and desolate. To the eastward, the ice was bounded by the precipitous snow-clad peaks of Cape Walker, and other remark- able headlands, tinged with gold and purple. All the rest as far as the eye could reach, was unbroken, save by the blue thread of water, at whose extremity we were now delayed. The intense reflection of light from the ice pre- vented our distinguishing the sea horizon from the sky, except by distant bergs, which the mirage occasioned to take the most fanciful and ever changing appearances. Churches, towers, ships, &c., were formed for a moment, and as rapidly passed away, to give place to others equally strange and fantastic. The pres- sure of the ice had covered the surface of the pack with huge blocks, so as to form a delightful r 2 68 SEPARATED FROM OUR CONSORT. I variety of light and shade, resembling the ruined remains of some mighty city. But, in fact, the effect of the whole was quite indescribable, and must be visited to form an adequate idea of the wonders of the arctic world. Our consorts, the " Assistance " and " Pioneer," were observed to be closely beset, about four miles distant to the westward of our position. Up to this period we had been constantly at work clearing nips, without the satisfaction of knowing, whether or not the result of our labours would prove bene- ficial or otherwise. ' Mirage— Baffin's Bay. At the time of the fog clearing, we were shut out from a comparatively large body of Avater, in shore of the ship, by a stubborn nip about 300 yards in length, and although Sunday, this was attacked by a party of men from each ship. Charges of powder were introduced, and the immediate effect was sa- 'i i NOVEL AMUSEMEN I ON A !■ RG. 69 tisfactory, but the closing movement of i]ye tee pro- vented our gaining a ship's length, until ibout 10 P.M., when, by dint of great exertion, the ships were forced through and gained the water beyond, decreased however considerably in size. I had almost forgotten to say that in answer to a signal from Captain Kellett, the following were the places of rendezvous named, in the event of our parting company — Cape Dudley Digges, Cape Horsburgh, Cape Warrender, and Admiralty Inlet. From the 27 th to the 29 th we were detained in an extensive pool, surrounded by several large bergs, whose room would have been preferred to their company. From one of them we obtained water. This berg by actual measurement was only sixty feet above the level of the sea, and in shape resembled a wedge ; being precipitous on one side, and on the other inclined from its summit to the sea. After work for the day was concluded, the officers and men amused themselves by sliding down the inclined plane on staves of casks. Of course they obtained an increased im- petus every foot, and the velocity when near the bottom was very great. Many were the tumbles that took place, and although the unlucky wight r 3 70 NORTH WATER IN SIGHT. was in danger of breaking his limbs, he was never- theless the object of the hearty and vociferous laughter of the spectators. The following day the united efforts of the various crews succeeded in clearing a passage through a long pressed-up nip, into a lead which we hoped would take us into a large body of water inshore. In this however we were disappointed, and our progress till the 31st was a series of goings on and stoppages; added to this a dense fog, limiting the knowledge of our position to within 100 yards of the ship, rendered our situation somewhat un- pleasant. At length, on the 31st, the fog having lifted in an obliging manner for a few minutes, we obtained a view of a broad lane of water from the crow's- nest, extending many miles to the eastward of Cape Melville, where it was lost amidst the innumerable bergs in that locality ; but to the westward the sight was most encouraging, and incited us to renewed labour, whilst such a tempting prize was in view. The lane referred to above, was observed to be continuous along the shore of Prince Regent Bay, and join an extensive water beyond Cape York. ENTER THE NORTH WATER. 71 Few persons, unless like us (or tliirty-eight days they hud been actually amongst the ice, could imagine the pleasure which the contemplation of such a prospect created in the minds of all on board. Setting aside the danger incurred whilst battlirjg with such a stem enemy as ice, the anxiety and work were alike overpowering to mind and body, and it may be readily imagined that the thoughts of once more having the ship under control in her own natural element, was a source of intense satisfac- tion to all. At 2 r.M. we secured to the floe, separated by only a few miles from the much desired water ; this space was filled with loose pieces, which were gra- dually clearing out, and about 7 p.m., after another struggle with an obstinate nip (which a charge of powder decided in our favour), we proceeded in tow of the " Intrepid " without any impediment, and as if the power of our evil attendant the fog ceased with our victory over the ice, the weather cleared, and a more beautiful evening than that in which we entered the long-wishcd-for North Water, could scarcely be. In the absence of wind, and by the powerful aid of steam, we made considerable progress along the silent shore of Regent's Bay, so that by 10 a.m. on F 4 .ram 72 COMMUNICATE WITH ESQUIMAUX. Sunday^ August \st^ we were within seven or eight miles of Cape York. A breeze from the northward having sprung up, we had cast off from the steamer, and made sail, shaping our course for the Cape, when several natives were observed on the land ice, in the bay to the eastward of the point. The Captain, in common with all on board, having a desire to communicate with the natives of the most northern habitable portion of the globe, we hauled up for that purpose, and at noon landed on the fast ice laden with presents. Here we found two men and three boys with dogs and sledges. The natives, (arctic highlanders of Sir John Ross,) receiv<^.d us without betraying any great degree of interest or curiosity. The shape of their garments, made of bear and deer skins, was essentially the same as their more southern neigh- bours, but they outvied all we had previously seen in want of cleanliness, and were, without exception the most disgustingly filthy race of human beings it has been my lot to encounter. The men might possibly at some remote period have indulged in a wash, but it is my firm con- viction that the boys, apparently ten or twelve years old, had never undergone anything in the form of an ablutionary process. It is, however, AT CAPE YORK. 73 igs almost impossible to convey an idea of the personal appearance of these degraded creatures, who though to us objects of commiseration, were by no means of that opinion themselves. On the contrary, they with a most amusing serio-comic expression of countenance imitated our gestures and words ; and whenever success attended their endeavours, the performer was rewarded by the boisterous laughter of those around, who in their excess of mirth brought tears into their eyes. It was from this place that Erasmus York * was, with his own consent, taken on board the '* Assist- ance," Captain Ommanney, in August, 1850. Na- turally supposing they would make eager enquiries concerning their absent relative, one of the officers had considerately kept an Illustrated London News with the portrait of York, for the express purpose * Erasmus York (Kallihirua) was brought to England in 1851, and educated at St. Augustine's College, Canterbury. In 1855, he was sent to Newfoundland, with a view of being useful among the Esquimaux of Labrador; but he died the following year oi consumption. He was of a mild and amiable disposition, and made himself everywhere beloved by his warm and single-hearted affection for all who were kind to him. A pretty little memoir of him has been published by the Rev. T. B. Mnrray, issued by the Society for Promoting Cliris- tian Knowledge, which will well repay perusal. An account of him will also be found in Snow's Voyage of the Prince Albert tad Osborn's Stray Leaves from an Arctic Journal. SfHM II 74 ESQUIMAUX OF CAPE YORK. !■ of showing it to these poor people, in the event of communicating with them ; but they appeared to have forgotten him, and although his native name was pronounced, they repeated it without any emotion ; this want of curiosity respecting his fate / Mmkm fc^: ^ \ Esquimaux — Cape York. surprised us, for they must have imagined we were the same vessels by the presence of the steamers, which appeared to fix their attention. The so-called village consisted of three seal skin tents erected on the inner slope of Cape York, close beside a huge glacier. The inhabitants con- sisted of two old women, who might have been "■^j»^jrr?"r'T»7^7""*'''"*^-7^''^Ti'" FILTHY HABITS OF THE ESQUIMAUX. 75 tof I to ime any fate \ vere lers, skin ork, con- )een belles in their younger days ; if so, their present personal appearance would tend to prove beyond a doubt that beauty is but fleeting. Three younger and more comely women, each with a child at her back, were presumed to be the wives of the only three men we observed. Besides these there were nine children of different ages, all as healthy as they were dirty. The appearance of the interior of the tents was quite in keeping with their persons. The skins strewn around were anything but inviting, and although not very fastidious, it would take a con- siderable time to reconcile one to the thoughts of seeking repose amongst so much filth. Strewn around on the outside of the tents were bones of birds and seals, besides a quantity of putrid seal flesh and intestines, sending forth an offensive smell. We of course considered this to be the refuse, on which probably the dogs were fed, but were soon enlightened by seeing one of the ancient ladies take a portion of the entrails, and swallow a quantity of it as Italians do macaroni. Being however a few yards in length, she was unable to swallow the whole, and therefore contented herself with a foot or two, which was severed with a knife. 76 PART COMPANY WITH " ALEXANDER." This feat completed our disgust, and after the Captain had distributed a few presents, we retraced our steps towards the boats, pitying in our inmost hearts the sad lot of these poor wretches, whose only means of subsistence must be very precarious ; for having no boats, they are necessitated to trust to killing their prey between the cracks in the ice. And here it may not be unworthy of remark, that no other community in the known world, frequent- ing sea coasts, are without some description of vessel. We endeavoured to ascertain whether or not the " Assistance " and " Pioneer " had called here, or had been seen, but could obtain no satisfactory answer from them, and not having observed any articles of European manufacture, we inferred that Sir Edward Belcher had not touched at the Cape. At 3 P.M. we slipped from the floe edge, and rounding the Cape, stood along the crimson cliffs of Beverley, with a moderate breeze from the east- ward. During the evening our last letter bag was closed, and given in charge of Captain Storock of the " Alexander," as it was possible circumstances would prevent our being able to communicate again. Standing along the land to the northward PROGRESS THROUGH LANCASTER SOUND. 77 during the night, we found ourselves the following morning, Monday, 2nd, amongst loose sailing ice, running to the north»westward with a strong breeze from S.E. attended by thick gloomy weather. The " Alexander " was in sight, but some miles to the S.W. of our position. During the afternoon, the loose ice becoming more open, we obtained a bearing of Cape York and Ragged Island, and altered course for Cape Horsburg. At 8 P.M. we cleared the last of the loose ice, and now fairly considered ourselves in the North Water, which was confirmed when, at 11 p.m., we observed a perceptible swell from the S. W. A thick mist with a fall of snow continued during the night, but a good look-out enabled us to avoid the few berg pieces we passed. Lost sight of the " Alexander " during the evening. Tuesday y Srd Wind easterly, with gloomy weather, ship under all sail ; at 11*30 observed the land between Cape Horsburg and Cape Howe, form- ing the south entrance of Jones' Sound. From this time, a series of calms, light variable winds, and strong adverse breezes, generally accompanied by thick misty weather, rendered our progress through Lancaster Sound and Barrow's Straits tedious in the extreme. On passing Cape Warrender and 78 ARUIVE AT BEECHEY ISLAND. Dundas Harbour, the cairns erected by the expedi- tion of 1850 were observed ; but the unsettled state of the weather prevented our landing to inspect them. As the sailing qualities of the " North Star " were considerably superior to ours, Captain Kellett desired her to proceed with all despatch to Beechey Island, where we supposed the " Assistance " and tender were awaiting our arrival ; but from the time of this order being given, the winds became so variable and local, as to enable us to keep her in sight until within a few hours of her arrival at Beechey Island. Our progress through the sound and straits, was not remarkable for anything save the absence of ice throughout; this fact excited within us the hope of being able to attain a high figure in west longitude. Tuesday, August 11th, — At 2 a.m. arrived at the fast ice in Erebus and Terror Bay, where we found only the " North Star." The non-arrival of " Assistance " and tender surprised us greatlj'^, for knowing they were extri- cated from the ice a day or two previous to our- selves, we had fully expected to have met them ; { \ i; GRAVES AT BEECHEY ISLAND. 79 liem ; indeed it was this feeling which occasioned Captain Kellett to pass Admiralty Inlet, one of the places of rendezvous named by Sir Edward. But now as his absence from Beechey Island suggested the possibility of his having called at the rendezvous, the " Intrepid " was despatched in hopes of her falling in with the vessels, and in- forming them of our whereabouts ; whilst Ave in the " Resolute " hauling the ship alongside the " North Star " commenced in right earnest to take the residue of our provisions from her. The various mementos of the missing squadron, such as the graves, workshop, garden, &c., were all visited and narrowly examined, as well as the cairn erected by myself on the previous voyage with Captain Austin. The " Mary " yacht, which had been left by Sir John Ross, was also searched, and the documents deposited by the expedition of 1850 extracted ; these, with some additions relating to the present expedition, were eventually replaced, but nothing was seen to induce us to imagine that any persons had visited the island since ourselves in 1850. The graves were neatly made, and placed about ten feet asunder on the inne^* slope of the island. f^ 80 FIRST TRACE OF MISSING EXPLORERS. The head-boards, facing the east, bore the following inscriptions, viz. 8ACRED TO THE MEMORY OF JOHN IIARTNELL, A. U. OF U. M.S. EREBUS. DIED JAN. 4, 1846. AGED 25 YEARS. HaMal, c. 1. V. 7. Thus gaith the Lord of huits, Coii> sUleryour waya. SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF Vr. nRAINE, R. M., H, M. S. EREnUS. DIED APRIL 3RD,1846. 32 YEARS. Choose you this day whom ye will serve. Joshua, c. L>4. part of 15 ver. SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF JOHN TORRINGTON, WHO DKPARTEJk) THIS LIFE, JANUARY 1, A.D. 1846. ON BOARD OF H.M.S. TERROR, AGED 20 YEARS. Although in 1850 I had made many visits to the graves, I found it impossible to repress the melancholy feelings, which a scene so painfully in- teresting naturally suggested. Here were we ar- rived at the very scene, of the first stage of the perilous voyage, of the missing explorers. The three resting places proved that death had been busy amidst the little ^and, during their lengthened sojourn in this lone and desolate spot ; but beyond this, and a few unimportant articles scattered around, there existed no record pointing out their intended route, nor even a trace which gave a clue to their fate, which is, and alas ! I am afraid will ever be, shrouded in mystery. "We all felt much surprise at the absence of any document, so contrary to the usual custom of Englishmen, who almost invariably are ambitious BEECHEY ISLAND. 81 any ^m of Ltious of leaving their names in every available place, where knives, or even stones could be brought into play. On our arrival at Beechey Island in 1850, a cairn on the summit held out hopes of solving the question, but we were disappointed ; it was too large to have been raised for amusement, and it was most likely erected for a surveying mark. Beechey Island, eastern bluflf, is by actual mea- surement 618 feet above the level of the sea. Here and on the south side of the island the cliffs are very precipitous, but on the northern, or inshore side, the land falls somewhat abruptly for a little distance, from whence it gradually declines in altitude, terminating in a long tongue, or rather a causeway, joining the main land about two miles from Cape Spencer. None of the primitive rock was to be seen, the whole island being composed of laminated lime- stone, interspersed with pebbles. Wednesday, ^th During the afternoon we completed provisioning from the " North Star." Whilst hauling off from her, the " Assistance," in tow of the " Intrepid," was observed rounding Cape Riley. On inquiry we found that the " Assistance" had communicated with the natives of Cape York, G 82 OFFICIAL »£ARCU FOR RECORDS. on the day previous to our visit, and had dis* trihutcd amongst them many articles as presents, none of which we saw; this would lead us to suppose they had purposely hidden them, in the expectation of receiving more from us. If this conjecture be correct, their refusing to impart any information about the vessels is easily accounted for. After leaving the eastern shores of Baffin's Bay, the " Assistance " had got sixty miles to leeward, and was obliged to beat up, from about the vicinity of Pond's Bay .to Lancaster Sound : the " Pioneer " had been despatched a few days before to examine Navy Board Inlet, and had not yet rejoined com- pany. The day after his arrival. Sir Edward organ- ised an official search for documents relating to the Franklin Expedition. Parties of four men, each commanded by an officer, had particular localities, which were most effectually searched but the result tended to prove that nothing had been overlooked by the Expedition of 1850. Friday 1 14#A. — "Pioneer" joined company, wind blowing a moderate gale from the northward. The *' Intrepid " left, in pursuance of orders from Sir Edward Belcher, to proceed up Wellington I WELLINGTON CHANNEL CLEAR OF ICE. 83 , »> Channel, as far as practicable, for the purpose of re- porting on the state of the ice. As far as an ex- tensive view from the summit of Beechey Island enabled us to judge, there appeared to be little or none in the channel ; nor did we observe anything save loose streams in Barrow's Straits. Saturday^ Ibth. — Wind more moderate from the northward, weather fine. During the forenoon the "Intrepid" arrived from her trip of obser- vation, and brought the gratifying intelligence of the channel being quite free from ice, for a dis- tance of twenty-five miles from Beechey Island, and that beyond that distance there existed from the west side a broad lead running in the direc- tion of the N.E. indentation. o 2 84 CHAP. V. Sir E. Belcher addresses Offlcers and Men. — Abstract of Orders. — Vessels of Squadron separate. — Land a Boat near Cape Ilothara. — The Ship takes the Ground. — Ship grounds a Second Time. — Obliged to lighten the Ship. — A novel but unpleasant Incident.— Ship severely pressed by Ice. — Ship floats and proceeds to the Westward. — Griffith's Island. — — Prospect to the Westward most Encouraging. — In the Vicinity of a suspected Shoal. — Compasses worse than Use- less. — Prospects become less Bright. — Off Low iher Island. — Secure to Land Ice. — Watch the State of the Ice. — Lowther Island roughly Surveyed. — Lowther Island. — Confirm the Existence of a Shoal. ^ Pass between Somer- ville and Browne Islands. — Cross the Mouth of M'Dougall Bay. — Land a Dep6t near Alison's Inlet. — Pass Cape Cockburn. — Austin Channel. — Stopped by Ice ofi" South point of By am Martin Island. — Bearing Tables very Useful. — Byam Martin Island. — Sight Melville Island. The same day at 8 p. m., Sir Edward Belcher ad- dressed the assembled officers and crews of the va- rious vessels on the floe. After speaking in a highly complimentary manner of the past conduct of all comprising the Expedition, he concluded by read- ing a prayer, composed for this service, of which printed copies were distributed to all who wished ABSTRACT OF ORDERS. 85 to possess them. Like most meetings whore sea- men are concerned, the proceedings terminated with continued cheering. As Beechey Island was known to be the point from which the various branches were to di- verge, we were not a little anxious to ascertain the exact routes, which proved to be as follows, viz., 1 " Assistance " and " Pioneer " to proceed up Wellington Channel. 2. " Resolute " and " In- trepid " to reach Melville Island. 3. " North Star " to remain at Beechey Island, as a dep6t, in the event of either of the other ships being deserted. Respecting our own, the Melville Island branch, the orders were to proceed if possible to the Winter Harbour of Sir Edward Parry in 1819-20, and there deposit a quantity of provisions for the use of the crew of the " Investigator," as in the event of their being obliged to abandon the ship, there was a possibility of their touching at Melville Island, on the homeward route by Baffin's Bay. On our way thither we were expected to drop dep6ts for our own subsistence, in case any accident occurred to the " Resolute " which would oblige us to return on foot to Beechey Island. As it was not supposed we could perform the above G 3 86 LEAVE TAKINGS. service, and return the same season, it was re- quired of us to despatch travelling parties du- ring the spring to the north by Byam Martin Channel, and to the westward of Melville Island ; the exact routes, however, as a matter of course, depended on Captain Kellett. Our return to Beechey Island was expected in the autumn of 1853, when the captain would be guided by circumstances relative to his remaining a second winter, or returning to England, sup- posing the " Assistance " and " Pioneer " did not make their appearance. After Sir Edward Belcher's address before al- luded to, the officers and crews of the several ships bid each other farewell, and, as was after- wards remarked by many, the parting was expres- sive of the kindly feelings entertained towards each other, by all composing the Expedition. Without indulging in a vein of sentiment, I firmly believe that each and all separated, with the firm determination of carrying out the object of the service on which we were employed, and if the natural wish that their branch of the Expedition should prove to be the successful one, it was suggested by a pardonable spirit of emulation in the great cause of humanity. SIR E. BELCHER SAILS UP WELLINGTON CHANNEL. 87 At 10 P.M. the "Assistance" and "Pioneer" parted company, and stood up Wellington Channel, about which there had been so much difference of opinion as to its being always blocked with ice, amidst the cheers of the remaining vessels. The " Intrepid " not having completed coaling, obliged us to wait till the following day. Sunday^ \bth. — At 2 p.m. we left Beechey Island, regretted by the now solitary " North Star," and, in tow of the tender, wended our way across the clear and placid bosom of Wellington Channel, in which no traces of ice could be distinguished. Many a wistful glance was cast to the northward, as we thought of the glorious field for exertion this noble channel held out, and although con- tented with the service allotted to us, could not but wish our way led to yet undiscovered regions. From the crow's-nest, the prospect to the westward appeared most encouraging, and yet, within a few hours, we were obliged to make fast to an extensive floe, running along the west shore of the channel, as far as the eye could reach to the southward. This block caused great disappoint- ment, but as all regret would have been unavail- ing, wc took the matter as philosophically as pos- sible. G 4 ! i lii 88 LAND A BOAT NEAR CAPE HOTHAM. Monday y Ifi^A. — At 4 a.m. a sudden disruption, occasioned by the tide, took place amongst the floes : this in a short time opened a lead around Cape Hotham. As the number of our boats was more than sufficient for the service on which we were en- gaged, it was determined to land one of the whalers, a little to the westward of Cape Hotham, close in the neighbourhood of the dep6t of the "Assistance" in 1850, of which two casks of bread were found, as well as a few empty casks, the contents having been extracted (by permission) by Sir John Ross.* Although a "lead" existed along the land to the westward, the proximity of the ice obliged us to borrow rather close to the shore, which rose gradually in terraces of laminated limestone to a moderate eminence. As is usual on such occasions, the lead was kept going constantly, but we were more annoyed than surprised when, at 8 a.m., the ship took the ground about 300 yards distant from the beach. Whilst preparations were being made for taking out haw- sers to the " Intrepid," an ofiicer was despatched * Admiral Sir John Ross equipped a vessel for the search (the Felix), and waited at Cornwallis Island. He was consider- ably turned 70 years of age. "resolute" takes the ground. 89 .f ^;i to the shore with a pole, for the purpose of watching the progress of the tide, which was found to be rising; this fact made us confident of getting off. After the lapse of an hour, we were again afloat, with, however, only a moderate allowance of water between us and the bottom, which could plainly be seen from the deck. Skirting along the floe edge, in some places not more than a quarter of a mile from thv. beach, we progressed rapidly along the coast to the westward, in tow of the *' Intrepid," shoaling our water occasionally to within a foot of our draught. It now became evident that the loose ice was fast closing on the shore, and the " Intrepid " was desired to effect an offing, which, by dint of per- severance, she succeeded in doing. On approaching Assistance Harbour, loose ice was observed to extend across the bay, leaving a clear space of water in its depth ; to gain this we steered for a " lead" close to the eastern horn, which is very low. As we approached, our soundings gradually decreased ; but hoping to gain the water in the bay (where we knew there was sufficient depth for the ships) the steamer, with slackened speed, continued on until the shoal nature of the ground warned us to retrace our path. This, f) i I 90 GROUNDS A SECOND TIME. however, was now impossible, for in adaition to the headway the ship had, the tide carried her rapidly over the ground until she took the bottom (stones and gravel) about one-third of a mile S. W. of the low point alluded to above. Until the vessel was stationary, we had no idea of the velocity of the tide, which was setting to the westward at the rate of two and a half miles an hour, bringing with it floes of various sizes, many of them taking the vessel in their passage and endangering the rudder, which we had some dif- ficulty in unshipping. Various means were now resorted to, for heaving the ship off, but without success j and when at 1 P.M. the tide began to fall, it became evident the vessel must be lightened to ensure her floating the next tide, for it was within an hour of high water by the ground when she struck ; and what made our situation more embarrassing, was the fear of losing the advantages from the present spring-tides. The boats were now lowered, and the deck-load of casks, weighing about fifteen tons, transferred to the " Intrepid " about a cable's length distant. As by our instructions we were supposed to place depots at convenient distances along the coast, one had been prepared (consisting of seven days pro- NOVEL BUT UNPLEASANT INCIDENT. 91 visions for ninety men, and this was now landed on the nearest point to the ship. As the tide fell, the ship heeled over to port until her bilge took the ground at about an angle of 20°. As nearly as we could judge, the water began to fall at 1 P.M., though the superficial current drained to the westward until three, when it com- menced setting out of the bay to the eastward, taking with it the loose ice ; by it we had fair means estimating the velocity of the tide. At 5 P.M. the bay was clear of ice, with the ex- ception of an extensive floe, which appeared to be connected with the land to the westward. At six, however, this floe was observed to be moving in the direction of the ship ; no power of ours could either stop its progress, or alter its course. Sub'dued by a feeling of utter helplessness, we watched its ap- proach in silence, and calmly awaited the result of such a mass of ice on a stranded ship. To give the reader a better idea of our situation, it will be necessary to describe the relative posi- tions of the ship and approaching ice. The vessel, as I have before stated, was grounded on her port bilge, with about seven feet of water under her stern and six under her bow, whilst the floe on her port (or lee) beam was advancing at the rate of 92 SHIP SEVERELY PRESSED BY ICE. one mile and a half an hour directly towards her. Its length was about two miles and a half, by one mile and a half broad, and was afterwards proved to be about three feet six inches thick. About seven, the edge of the ice took the ship under the lee gangway, shaking her throughout. A moment had scarcely elapsed ere we became sen- sible of the ship's lifting, and instinctively each man grasped a rope, as he became aware she would inevitably be thrown over. Yielding inch by inch before such a powerful lever, the ship at length rested on her keel, but it v as but momentary, for in a second she was thrown over on her star- board side, with a shock sufficient to bring every mast by the board. As it ioaSf the very topmasts bent like whalebone, bringing a fearful strain on the weather shrouds ; but not a rope was stranded, nor a single spar injured by this unprecedented and appalling oc- currence. Would the ship be borne before the ice ? or remain immoveable on the ground ? were questions that naturally suggested themselves. Supposing the first to be the case, she would be forced nearer the shore, into small water, which would lessen the chances of getting off, and if the latter, she would *' resolute" floats. 93 .1 m all probability be overrun and buried beneath the ice, as many a gallant ship had been, under somewhat similar circumstai ^es, in Melville Bay. A careful eye was kept on the lead, but the ship remained fixed, and her side was thus opposed to the ice, on whose progress, however, it had no effect. As the pressure increased, huge pieces scaled the side, and would have fallen in board, had not men been stationed on the gunwale with poles, to repel these formidable boarders. Our stern post bore the greatest strain ; to ease the pressure, charges were sunk in the ice, break- ing it all around ; but this was found to give the ice fresh motion, and ultimately increase the danger. For two hours we remained in this trying position ; at the end of that time the floe was ob- served to be moving more out of the bay, when the pressure decreased considerably. We all felt great anxiety about the sternpost, but after a close inspection, it was found to have received no material injury. A piece of false keel, which had been wrung, when nipped in Melville Bay, now came to the surface and was secured. At this time, 9 p.m., the tide was rising rapidly ; the time of its commencing being about seven. The ice was now moving off shore, and two six- 94 " RESOLUTE " PROCEEDS TO WESTWARD. inch hawsers were taken to it, in the hopes of its dragging the ship into deeper water. On first feeling the strain, the ship righted a little, and moved a few feet astern ; but the continued jump- ing of the anchors prevented our deriving any advantage from it. Fortunately it had continued calm up to this time, but now a moderate breeze springing up from the northward, the square sails were set, and thrown aback. In the early part of the evening the " Intrepid " had been obliged to retreat before the ice, but she was enabled to join company, by rounding its western end. Hawsers were now taken out to her, and after sundry unsuccessful attempts, we at length got off about midnight, a considerable portion of our false keel coming to the surface at the same time. There being a good " lead " in the direction of the south part of Griffith's Island, we proceeded in tow of the steamer in that direction, and about 8 a.m. found ourselves off the south bluff, in a broad lead of water, which widened every mile we proceeded. Between the island, and Cornwallis Land, there appeared to -be fixed ice extending the whole breadth of the channel. Griffith's island: Malcolm's grave. 95 As we passed along the shore of this barren island, we observed numerous cairns erected by the Expedition of 1 850. The most conspicuous is placed in a prominent position, on the high outline, near the south bluff, and may be seen for many leagues around. The sight of Griffith's Island, as may be supposed, afforded a peculiar interest to those who, forming a part of the expedition under Captain Austin, had spent eleven months, frozen up in its immediate neighbourhood. Every point, hill, and ravine, was connected with some little incident, during our rambles over its desolate, and uninteresting surface. Nor did we fail to remember with kindly feelings, the sad fate of that brave seaman of the "Resolute" (George Malcolm) who fell a victim to the intense cold, and extreme hardships, he had to encounter in the cause of humanity. His remains are interred on the east side of the island. May he rest in peace! The prospect from the crow's-nest, after rounding the south bluff, was exhilarating in the extreme, and its effects were visible on the countenances of all on board. The day was beautifully calm, with a clear blue sky. Distant objects were well defined, although 96 ENCOURAGING PROSPECT. h ! \ raised by considerable refraction. Lowther Island, and the land about Cape Bunny, was distinctly visible, with water apparently extending to each, without the appearance of ice blink. The reflec- tion of the vessels was remarkably distinct in the water, the lofty spars and smaller ropes being as plainly seen as in a mirror. With this bright prospect before us, we steamed along the south side of Gritlith's Island, almost regretting the time, necessarily occupied, in des- patching a boat to the cairn on the shoulder of the point to deposit a document, containing a brief account of the movements of the squadron, up to that period. On her return a light air from the south- eastward having sprung up, we made sail, intending to round the north point of Lowther Island. , About 3 P.M. the freshening breeze obliged us to cast off from the " Intrepid," and we made all sail in company ; the old " Resolute " surprising herself by bounding to the westward at the rate of nearly six knots an hour. As we rose the land of Lowther Island, several suspicious streams of ice were observed, and in some measure prepared us for the report, that the pack extended from the north end of the Island, SUSPECTED SHOAL. 97 away in a north-easterly direction. It must be confessed this was annoying, but there was yet a " lead " round the south end, and for that point we now hauled up. About 7 p. M. a dense damp fog set in, which soon covered masts, sails, men, and indeed every- thing exposed, with a coating of frost. Much precaution was now necessary to avoid the heavy loose pieces, which were increasing in number and size eveiy mile we advanced. But in addition to these floating dangers, there was yet another, a shoal, known to be in our neighbourhood, but its exact position uncertain. This shoal was discovered by Lieut. Mecham whilst travelling over the ice in 1851, from the south point of Lowther to Griffith's Island. On his way across he had fallen in with a range of hummocks of more than ordinary height: their broken appearance induced him to sound in a crack, and to his surprise he found bottom in seven fathoms (gravel). He had fortunately fixed their position relatively with the tangents of Lowther Island, and put its position in his chart of proceedings. At 9 P.M. the wind (southerly) had increased to a strong breeze, with occasional heavy squalls, and H fl 'l 98 COMPASSES WORSE THAN USELESS. every appearance of a continuation of bad weather. Fortunately, however, the wind cleared the fog, and we had the satisfaction of seeing the island, by which alone we were enabled to form an idea of our position ; the compasses, after passing Cape Warrender, not only ceased to be of service, but would have tended to mislead us, had we placed confidence in them. A large mass of grounded hummocks, now observed about five miles off shore, was supposed to be in the vicinity of the shoal on which Lieut. Mecham had sounded, as they agreed with the position he assigned to them in his chart. During the night the increasing breeze obliged us to reduce sail to double-reefed topsails and foresail; and with the lead constantly going we worked to windward, between the supposed shoal, and the island. Towards morning the wind veered round to the westward, an d decreased in violence. Exten- sive masses of heavy loose pack were observed off the south end of the Island, drifting rapidly before the wind, and thus our hopes of round- ing the southern point were, for a time at least, frustrated. But a broad lead, or rather a large body of open water, extended in the direction PK0SPECT8 LESS BRIGHT. 99 of Cape Walker, and it now became a question wliether it would be advisable to proceed to the southward, trusting to the water taking a westerly trend in the vicinity of Young Island, or await the result under the lee of Lowther, and closely watch the progress of the ice, both north and south. As opinions varied on the subject. Captain Kellett happily determined on a middle course, and by 8 A. M. had worked up to the pack-edge, about a mile and a half distant from the S. W. point of the island. From this position the view from the crow's- nest held out no hopes of our effecting a passage to the westward by the South Water. Cape Walker and the land to the westward of it, as far as Baring Channel, was distinctly seen, as was also Young's Island, but in all these directions ice was observed, and the termination of the water to the southward was also descried. Although the weather during the day was variable, the atmosphere at times was very clear, enabling us to recognise Garrett Island, and the peaked hills of Bathurst Land. Vainly, however, we stretched our eyes to discern Davy Island, and from our position it was decided to be non est. By marks on the shore, we found the pack to be H 2 100 OFF LOWTHER ISLAND. m : ' moving to the S. E. at the rate of three quarters of a mile per hour, and at noon our observations (making allowance for the drift during the fore- noon) agreed with our actual position, about two miles from the nearest shore. At 1 P.M. the ice anchors having jumped out, the topsails were hoisted, and we ran along the island to the northward, until we sighted the ice off the N. W. point ; we then stood off and on in a bay on the east side, during the night. Thursday^ Idth. — The ice from the N. and S. points had come in contact about four miles E. of the island, and we were now in an extensive trian- gular pool of water, the eastern shore of the island forming one side, the other two being formed by the moving pack. At noon the captain, accompanied by a party of ofl&cers, landed near the S. bluff of the island, for the purpose of erecting a cairn, in which they de- posited one of the printed records. On their return on board, we stood along the land to the northward for a bay, in the depth of which we had observed some fixed ice. To this the captain wished to secure the ship, in preference to keeping under weigh, in order to allow the men the benefit of resting from their late exertions, and recruiting I f SECURE TO LAND ICE. 101 their strength for the work before them. It was, however, noon on the 20th ere we reached the floe edge, to which we made fast in eleven fathoms, about one mile distant from the nearest beach. On running in, a bear was obser'^ed, and no sooner had the ship's bows taken the ice, than half-a-dozen Nimrods, fully equipped for the chase, went in pursuit; but Bruin, not liking their appearance, retreated leisurely over the hills, and was soon lost to view. During the afternoon, the ice, in large masses, was observed to be streaming along the shore from the southward. Wishing to avoid being beset in our present position, we slipped at 4 p.m. and stood towards the N. end of the island, despatching two officers to ascend an eminence, for the pur- pose of reporting the state of the ice to the N.W. On their return at 10 p.m. they reported lanes of water extending some distance in a northerly direction, but unfortunately their view was limited, in consequence of the misty state of the atmo- sphere. Large streams, and washing pieces of ice, — a strong breeze, with dark gloomy weather and snow, the coast within a mile, and not in sight, — prevented our standing for the "leads" alluded to; we therefore H 3 102 WATCH THE STATE OF THE ICE. stood off and on during the night (wfiich now deserved its name), intending to reconnoitre in the ships the first thing in the morning. Saturday J 'ilst — Early this morning, the ship and tender worked up to the extreme end of the lead off the N.W. point, and there secured to the pack- edge, about half a mile from the grounded ice on the shore. In this position, the prospect from the crow's-nest was not encouraging, and this impression received confirmation from the reports of Captain Kellet and Commander M'Clintock, on their return from the summit of one of the loftiest ranges of hills. As the pack to which we were secured was drifting rapidly before the wind to the S.E., it was deemed advisable to shift our position, before the ice rendered it actually necessary to do so. We therefore ran back to our friendly quarters at the edge of the fixed floe ; from whence we had a better chance of being able to take advantage of any favourable change in the movements of the ice. The ice closed in during the night, and the rudder was unshipped ; but no pressure took place. By the morning, the loose pack again moved off, but our prospect of advancing had not improved. LOWTHER ISLAND ROUGHLY SURVEYED. 103 In this position, on the east of Lowther Island, we remained seven days ; during that time, a constant look-out was kept from the summit of a hill, in sight from the ship. This hill occupies a central position, and is the highest in the island. Its height by barometric measurement proved to be 630 feet above the level of the sea. From its apex the view was very extensive, and we were thus enabled to watch the changes in the ice for many miles around. Having, in the ship, nearly accomplished the circumnavigation of the island, we failed not to take advantage of the opportunities that offered, of laying down the coast line of the island, with something like accuracy. During our stay, the island, as may be supposed, was well explored by various parties ; our sports- men were however unfortunate ; for with the ex- ception of three brace of ptarmigan (two brace were bagged), no living thing was seen to reward their zeal. The skulls and bones of musk oxen, and the dung of foxes and hares, led us to imagine that those animals frequented the island, but, as I have before stated, none were seen alive. Lowther Island is of limestone formation, rising H 1 104 LOWTHER ISLAND. ' in terraces, or steps, to hills of considerable height. On the south shore, the rise is not gradual, but abrupt ; the cliffs — almost perpendicular — com- mencing about a half mile from the sea. In the centre of the island the land is low, but surrounded on all sides by the hills of the coast line, so that in formation it may be compared to a shallow dish. This basin probably contains water, when the heat of the summer's sun is sufficiently powerful to melt the snow, which crowns the summits of the surrounding heights ; these are occasionally divided by deep gorges, terminated by gullies extending to the beach ; through them the water probably falls into the sea. At length, on the morning of the 28th, there appeared a chance of our reaching the much desired water *, by retracing our steps to the east- ward for about fifteen miles ; this Captain Kellett determined upon doing, as there appeared no pro- bability of our effecting an escape by a shorter route. We therefore, at 7'30 a.m., cast off from the floe, and with a moderate breeze from W.N.W., * I find I have omitted to state, in my remarks of the 21st, that " w^ater was seen to the southward of Browne Island, ex- tending east and west until lost in the distance, without any prospect of our attaining it." CONFIRM THE EXISTENCE OF A SHOAL. 105 with fine clear weather, ran along the ice to the eastward. As our course lay close by tha hummocks on the supposed shoal, the lead was kept going, and a good look-out kept by myself from the masthead. To within one-eighth of a mile no bottom was obtained with the hand lead, but when about 200 yards south of the ice, we got two soundings in fifteen and then twelve fathoms (gravel), and beyond that no bottom with twenty fathoms. This fact in itself would have suflftced to prove the existence of danger, and account for the immense blocks of ice withstanding the pressure of the enormous floes to the N.W. From the crow's-nest, however, even before soundings were obtained, I observed a knoll of gravel, about 200 yards in circumference, and apparently a few feet above the sea, surrounded on all sides by hummocks, which prevented the bank being perceived from the deck. Had time allowed, no doubt we should have examined this shoal more narrowly ; but having to thread our way through loose pack-ice, ever changing its position, obliged us to sacrifice every- thing to our desire to gain the open water before night set in. 106 OUR LATE WINTER-QUARTERS. f During the interval which elapsed, between our passing the shoal at 9 A. m. and 3 in the afternoon, our course lay between drifting heavy loose pieces, on which, notwithstanding the attention paid to conning, the ship occasionally struck with con- siderable violence. Fortunately the ice, by stream- ing to the southward, a little increased the water as we approached Griffith's Island, and at 4 p.m. we cleared the last stream of ice, and entered into a broad sheet of water extending from the main land to the south of Somerville Island. Whilst standing in on the port tack towards Cape Sheringham, we observed that our late winter quarters (1850-51.), between Griffith's Island and Comwallis Land, appeared to have cleared out since our last sight of it on the 17th. The wind from W.N.W., had been light during the day, with fine bracing weather; the former now changed to N.N.W., and increased to a strong breeze, whilst the latter put on a very gloomy appearance, with squalls of hail and snow. The " Intrepid," about six, had taken the ship in tow, but in a short time made no headway against the wind. The fore and aft sails were now set on the starboard tack ; this, with the aid of steam and a westerly set, was found to answer, and we stood to i SOMERVILLE AND BROWNE ISLANDS. 107 the westward, passing between Browne and Somer- ville Island. During the night the deep sea lead was kept going every half-hour, with an occasional cast between whiles of the hand lead, but most frequently we got no bottom ; the least water we obtained was twenty-five fathoms (gravel and mud). "Whilst passing between the islands, the sea became agitated to such a degree as to cause rollers ; this was attributed to the tide and wind being in opposition, as we got no bottom with forty-five fathoms of line. Sunday^ 29/A. — At 4 a.m. the main pack was observed to leeward ; we then tacked and stood to the northward for a couple of hours, which enabled us to weather the ice. At this time the peaks of Bathurst were occa- sionally seen through the mist. At 9 a.m. the weather cleared, and the day proved beautifully fine. Not a single piece of ice was seen in M^Dougall Bay, nor did there appear any off the S. shore of Bathurst, except a few grounded hummocks. At noon Moore Island bore N.E. about four miles distant. At this time Cape Cockburn was visible 108 LAND A DEp6t NEAR ALISON'S INLET. in the distance, much thrown up by refraction. We were now making great progress to the west- ward, past Acland Bay and Alison's Inlet, off which we sounded in twelve, eleven, nine and thirteen fathoms (gravel). The pack at this place was about six miles from the beach, but closing towards the land in the direction of Cape Cock- burn ; near the Cape was observed a considerable quantity of fast ice. This somewhat altered the original intention of Captain Kellett, who had determined on landing a dep6t in the immediate vicinity of the Cape. The fast ice to the westward induced him to land the provisions whilst we had a beach line free of ice, and a dep6t for ninety men for six days was accordingly placed on the shore, about three miles W. of Alison's Inlet. Some little difficulty was found in getting the boats close in, on account of Vae shallow shelving nature of the ground ; the beach was covered with turf and moss ; there were also numerous antlers of rein deer. One or two of the most perfect were brought on board. On the return of the boat, the " Intrepid " again took the ship in tow, and we proceeded on towards Cape Cockburn. The day had hitherto been PASS CAPE COCKBURN. 109 beautifully fine and clear, but now a heavy bank of clouds to the westward proved to be the harbinger of a dense fog, which at 9 p. m. hid even the " Intrepid " from our view. At this time the Cape bore N.N. W. about four miles distant; whilst a point of the main pack was observed to be about four points on the port bow, distant one mile from the ship. All these circumstances were carefully noted, before we became enveloped in the fog, which was accompanied by a fresh south-westerly wind. The sun, by whose aid alone we could obtain bearings, had set at nine ; this obliged us to trust to the steadiness of the wind, the lead, and look-out ; and thus, in tow of " Intrepid," with fore and aft sails, we stood on through a lead of water, between a lee shore on the one side, and a closing pack to windward. The hand lead was kept constantly going, much to the discomfiture of the leadsman, in whose hands the line became coated with a mass of ice in hauling in. An occasional cast of the deep sea lead was taken, but the least water obtained was twenty fathoms. The nature of this navigation, such as I have attempted to depict, was more exciting than 110 AUSTIN CHANNEL. , '( i 1 , pleasant ; and we were not a little relieved, when about midnight, a strong ice blink was seen on our starboard or lee beam ; this was supposed to be the fast ice off the Cape observed before the fog came on. Shortly afterwards, a temporary lifting of the fog disclosed to our view the cape itself on our lee quarter ; and confirmed our previous supposition, that we were clear of any immediate danger from the shore. The land ice was observed in Graham Moore Bay, extending as far forward as a point on our lee bow. During the day (Monday, 30th) the wind fell light and the fog cleared, but the weather con- tinued gloomy ; at noon Mount Bullock, and the land to the northward were observed, with ice along shore trending to the W.N.W. Between it, and the loose pack to the southward, there was a broad irregular lead of water, varying from eight to ten miles in breadth ; this water was quite free from stream ice, but numerous large hummocks, or, more properly speaking, small bergs, were scattered about in every direction. One group, however, occupied a space of considerable extent, and as our bearings and distance placed them near the position of the shoal mentioned by Sir Edward ( if' BYAM MABTIN ISLAND. Ill Parry, they were conjectured to be aground on the bank. Two P.M. observed Byam Martin Island bearing W.N.W. At this time we were passing to the southward of the hummocks before mentioned; there were also heavy hummocks — supposed to be grounded — to the southward, but no soundings were obtained with fifty fathoms. Tuesday^ Z\st. — At 3 p.m., being within five miles of the south point of Byam Martin Island, the pack to the southward was observed to be close liome on the point. In order to make certain no lead existed, we closed the land to within one mile and a half, and then seeing no chance of getting forward, the " Intrepid " was cast off (to save coals), and we stood along the land to the N.E. to ascertain the state of the ice in that direction ; we found the fixed ice close home on Point Langley, off which were numerous grounded hummocks, no appearance of an opening was seen, the ice, appa- rently in one compact and unbroken mass, extended as far as we could see in an easterly direction, and had evidently not been disturbed this season. We therefore stood back, to await an opening round the south point. I have before observed that the only means of 112 BEARING TABLES VERY USEFUL. I 'I I knowing the direction of the ship's head, was by the true bearing of the sun, and the reason of my again recurring to this subject, is occasioned by the thoughtful consideration displayed by the Hydro- graphic Office, in having the true bearing of the sun, calculated to every twenty minutes of appa- rent time, between the seventieth and eightieth degrees of latitude. When the compasses ceased to be useful, the month's true bearings, abstracted from the Table, were pasted on a board, and hung abaft the mizen-mast, for the use of the officer of the deck. A little before the wheel, was placed a ^' bearing plate," consisting of a graduated brass circle, with eye-piece and sight-vane. With this instrument, we obtained the angle between the sun, and ship's head; and when applied to the true bearing of the sun (from the Table), gave the true course the ship was steering. The direction of the wind was obtained by the same process. It may perhaps be deemed unnecessary to have enlarged on such a simple subject, but it is in the simplicity of the application that all its usefulness consists, and renders the absence of the compasses of less importance that we expected. It must be very gratifying to the originator of BYAM MARTIN ISLAND. 113 these Tables, to know that his time and labour (and both must have been great) were not expended in vain ; for to them, I consider, we were indebted for the safe navigation of the ship on several occasions; and in bearing this willing testimony to the benefits we derived from them, I feel I am only performing a duty, which in common with others, I owe to the gentleman engaged in their construction. During the afternoon we continued standing off and on the pack, keeping a good look-out on the ice. At 8 P.M. sail was shortened, and the vessel secured to a large sconce piece, which was afterwards observed to be setting to the south-eastward at the rate of half a mile an hour. The prevailing wind during the day was south-westerly, with misty weather. A little before midnight a star, apparently of the second magnitude, was observed to the northward; cloudy weather prevented our recog- nising it. Wednesday^ September 1st. — During the middle watch there was scarcely any perceptible wind, but the weather continued misty; at 2 '30 the rudder was unshipped, to avoid the possibility of its being injured by some heavy drifting ice ; at 5 a.m. it was again shipped, as we expected to slip ; at eight we made sail to a moderate breeze from N.W. and I 114 SIGHT MELVILLE ISLAND. worked up to the extremity of the lead. At ten a lane of water was descried round the south point, leading into a considerable space beyond, and all sail was made in order to take advantage of our good fortune ; as we neared the lead, its breadth was observed to be increasing every moment. Keep- ing as close as prudence permitted to the immense masses of pressed up ice which bordered the south shore, we stood along, in from nine to thirteen fathoms (gravel), at the distance of one mile and a half from the beach, under a press of sail. TVe were under the necessity of making several tacks before we cleared the pack. At 2 p. m. it was well under our lee, with no ice in sight to the north- ward (up Byam Martin Strait), and at 3*40 p. m. Melville Island was distinctly seen from the crow's-nest. There were few on board who did not eagerly ascend the rigging, to cacch a glimpse of the island, whose shores had only once before been approached in a ship. 115 CHAP. VI. Melvillo Island. — Land a Depot on Point Griffiths. — Pass Skene Bay. — First Musk-Ox killed. — " Intrepid " grounds near Point Palmer. — Musk-Oxen numerous. — Cape Bounty. — Sight Winter Harbour. — Cairn erected by Sir E. Parry. — Captain decides on returning to Skene Bay. — Sea covered with thick " Sludge Ice." — Unable to enter Skene Bay. — Secure to Fast Ice near Dealy Island. — • Cut into Floe for wintering. — Preparations for wintering. — Departure of Travelling Parties. — Routes of Travel- ling Parties. — Experience a heavy Gale. — Its Effijcts. — Preparations for Winter. — Heturn of Lieut. Hamilton. — Despatch a Balloon. — Lieut. Mecham returns with im- portant Documents. — Proceedings of "Investigator," and Discovery of the North-west Passage. — Remarks on the foregoing Journal. — Mr. Nares returns on .Board. — A dis- agreeable Ducking. Sir Edward Parry, thirty -two years ago this very day, must have felt his bosom glow with heartfelt satisfaction on first seeing Melville Island; and although we had not, like him, the feelings of inde- scribable gratification attendant on discovery, yet I am induced to believe that each, and all on board, experienced a thrill of pleasure at having followed in fclie footsteps of this great man, and achieved, in m 116 DEP6t on point GRIFFITHS. a ship, what so many of our predecessors had failed in attaining.* The land when first seen was very indistinct, from distance and a misty atmosphere; and as we approached nearer night was setting in, so that we were unable to obtain a well defined sketch. We continued standing on, sounding occasionally, and keeping a good look-out. The main pack was about four miles to the southward of our course, placing it (by approximation) about ten miles from the shore near Point Griffiths : — during the night we worked towards this point under easy sail. Thursday^ 2nd. — At 2 a.m. we hove to in twelve fathoms {g) a little to the westward of Point Griffiths, and at 3 despatched two boats, in charge of Lieut. Mecham, to land a dep6t (con- sisting of twenty days' provisions for nineteen n? ""' ; the boats were some time pulling to the beach, consequence of a strong head (northerly) wind. At 4*30 the boats returned, having placed the depot some distance above high-water mark on a low shingly beach. * A sledge party from Captain Austin's Expedition, under command of Captain M'Clintock, had reached Melville Island the previous year r— the only time it had been trodden by the foot of man since its first discovery. PASS SKENE BAY. 117 lie Sail was now made and the ship's head was once more turned to the westward. A few miles further on a range of heavy hummocks (connected with the land by fast ice), extended several miles from the shore. We skirted their outer edge, off which we found twelve fathoms. The " lead " had now decreased somewhat in breadth, the main pack varying from five to seven miles off shore ; we found the whole coast studded with huge grounded pieces, which we approached unhesita- tingly, for experience enabled us to form an idea of the water they were in, and we were seldom out in our calculations more than a fathom. During the forenoon we continued working to the westward, but the old "Resolute" not being remarkable for her weatherly qualities the " Intrepid " was ordered to take us in tow. At noon we were a little to the westward of Point Ross, off which were large masses of grounded ice ; the loose pack appeared to stretch well into Skene Bay, but a good " lead " existed between it and Point Palmer; at 1 p.m. we shortened and furled sails, and the "Intrepid" took the ship in tow. During the afternoon the wind fell light, and eventually a calm ensued. Under X 3 m 118 FIRST MUSK-OX KliiLED. these favourable circumstances we made good progress to the westward. The pack obliged us to keep the land about Point Palmer close on board, and as the evening was beautifullv fine every glass was in requisition, and not in vain, for several dark objects were observed moving along the be ch ; they were con- jectured to be musk-oxen, although the twilight prevented our being certain. It was, hoAvever, quite evident that these objects were alive, and equally so that every man on board was eager to kill them ; this feeling must be attributed partly to the imperfection of human nature, and partly to a longing for fresh beef. Indeed the observation which originated in the last expedition might safely be applied to this, viz., " That every man would shoot his own father if he could be converted into fresh meat." At 9 P.M. we arrived at the end of the lead, and secured the ship to land ice, about five degrees west of Point Palmer, and one mile and a half from the beach. Friday, September Srd. — At five Lieut. Mecham, Dr. Domville, and a party of men proceeded to the shore, to attempt the capture of some of the " dark objects " seen yesterday, and our delight may be " INTREPID " AGROUND. 119 imagined, when at eight the glorious news of the deatli of a musk-ox was received on board. Never was seen such a commotion as that which ensued ; every description of gun manufactured was brought into play, and shot, wads, flasks of powder, and brandy, were hurried into the boat, that conveyed to the scene of slaughter a trusty band of arctic Nimrods. Just as they were leaving the ship, a large herd of oxen was observed on the ridge of one of the nearest ranges ; this gave them great hopes of success, and tended — if possible — to accelerate their movements. Unfortunately for me, the sun was shining ; and as duty compelled me to obtain observations, I was obliged to forego the pleasure of making one of the party. I do not r; j.'c iber ever seeing the sun shine with less pleasure than on that day. During the afternoon we had the satisfaction of receiving the carcasses of four musk-oxen, and the intelligence that many more were in the neigh- bourhood. Captain Kellett had during the forenoon left in the " Intrepid " to examine Skene Bay, as to its capabilities for a winter harbour. Off Point Palmer she grounded on the outer edge of a shoal running off the point in a south-easterly direction, 1 4 :i ■ 120 MUSK-OXEN NUMEROUS CAPE BOUNTY. about three quarters of a mile from the shore. After the lapse of an hour she was hauled off, without sustaining the slightest injury. On her return in the afternoon, the captain gave a favourable account of the bay. At eight that evening, we were astonished, but much gratified, as may be supposed, to hear of the death of eight more oxen, killed by Mr. Krabb^ and party, about five miles from the vessels. Saturday^ -ith. — Wind light from the eastward, weather cloudy. During the middle watch, the main body of ice having closed, we shifted position inshore of a projecting tongue, and unshipped rudder. Four A.M. — A party with cart and sledge was despatched to bring on board the carcasses of the eight musk-oxen killed yesterday. After break- fast, we cut a dock and secured the ship in it; the wind in the afternoon having shifted to W.S.W., the pack commenced moving off. Lieut. Pirn and Mr. Chandler (boatswain) succeeded this day in killing three musk oxen. Here we remained until noon on Monday the 6th, when a lead was observed extending some distance in the direction of Cape Bounty; we therefore slipped from the floe edge, and made sail SIGHT WINTER HARBOUR. 121 to double-reefed topsails and foresail, wind blowing strong from north, but decreasing in the afternoon, and enabling us to make more sail ; at this time Bridport Inlet appeared quite clear of ice, and at 5*30 P.M. on our passing Cape Bounty, the pack to the southward was supposed to be six miles from that headland, whilst to the westward there was every appearance of an abundance of water. As the sun set. Table Hill, as well as the low land of Winter Harbour was observed ; there was also an appearance of a land flje, extending from a little beyond Point Wakeham to what was sup- posed to be Point Hearne, where the pack appeared to close with the shore. Night as usual brought with it misty unplea- sant weather, but notwithstanding this, we worked windward, our turning marks being the pack on the one side and the land floe on the other ; near the latter the soundings were from seventeen to nineteen fathoms (sand) increasing after one or two casts, in a seaward direction, to twenty-three fathoms. Tuesday^ 1th — At 3 a.m. the weather cleared, and from the crow's-nest the land ice was observed to be continuous from Point Wakeham, round by Fife and Winter Harbours to Point Hearne, off f IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k^ 4^ 1.0 ^Ui Ui B Hi 122 1.1 lit Iti u 2.0 ^||||U.|i6 1 — 6" FhotogFaf^ .Sciences CarporatiQn ^ a>^ <^ 23 WIST MUtri STHIT WIBSTIR,N./. M5M (716)«7a-4S03 '^ 1 fe 126 CUT INTO FLOE. I confess I did not much regret it, as in my own mind I did not think the position good. Judging from the formation of the land, and the existence of the shoal, on which were huge grounded hum- mocks, I am inclined to think that we should have had a considerable distance to cut out. At ten we were again under rail, with our head to the west- ward. At this time the pack was fast approaching the shore, against a fresh breeze from the north- ward, which caused the bay ice to overlap, the layers in many places being almost sufficient to arrest the vessels' progress. Whilst passing along the shore a good look-out was kept from the crow*s-nest ; fast ice was observed between Dealy Island and the mainland to the eastward. As this appeared a good position, the captain went in the " Intrepid " to examine the floe edge with respect to soundings, leaving the ship to follow. We arrived a little after noon and secured to the ice in thirteen fathoms ; here we were met by Captain Kellett and Commander M'Clintock, both of whom thought the position good in every re- spect; and it was now decided to make it our quarters for the winter. During the afternoon the vessels were warped to COMPLETE THE CANAL. 127 within half a mile of the £. end of Dcaly Island, where we had thirteen fathoms, gradually de- creasing to nine, within a cable's length of the beach. As it was deemed advisable to cut into the floe, the ice instruments were got out, and at 4 p.m. the saws were in motion, cutting in a N.N.W. direction, which was supposed to be that of the prevailing winds. By six the following evening the canal was completed, and the "Resolute" hauled in; this day (the 10th September) may, there- fore, be considered the beginning of winter quarters. To prevent the ice coming into the canal, the flying jib- boom was laid across its entrance. On the 11th three more musk- oxen fell victims to the prowess of Lieutenant Hamilton and Mr. Purchase. On the 12th, a balloon was despatched with 800 papers attached to a tail of quick-match. The balloon disappeared in a north- westerly direction.* 4. * It is a singular fact that few of the many thousand slips, which must have been scattered in every direction from the 4 Ml ! t 128 PREPARATIONS FOR WINTERING. Tuesday^ Wth. — Commander M'Clintock, Dr. Scott and thirteen men, with two carts and twelve days' provisions, left the ship to place a depot on the southern shore of Hecla and Griper Bay, in order to facilitate the travelling operations next spring. Lieutenant Bedford Pim with four men, three dogs, and a sledge, provisioned for three days, left at the same time to bring in the carcasses of *hree musk'oxen, shot by Commander M'Clintock, during his late absence to ascertain the best line of route for the carts. At 8 P.M. we were surprised and sorry, to hear that both carts had sunk through the floe, near the beach at the head of Bridport Inlet. Dr. Scott returned with them in order to dry their sleeping bags, &c., as well as to exchange the injured bread and other provisions. By this unfortunate accident, the following pro- visions were, after a careful survey, condemned as useless, viz., — Bread 496 lbs. Sugar 9^ „ By 8 A.M on Wednesday the carts were again Tobacco 8^ lbs. Tea I „ balloons despatched on this and Captain Austin's Expedition, were ever picked up by the travelling parties. I am not my- self aware of any having been found. i DEPARTURE OF TRAVELLING PARTIES. 129 loaded, and left to rejoin Commander M'Clintock, who had remained encamped near the scene of the disaster, about eight miles from the ship. All was now hurry and bustle on board, pre- paring depots and travelling equipments for the autumn parties, who were to leave the last week in the month, if practicable. As after the departure of the parties, the number on board the ship would necessarily be small, the various arrangements requisite for our comfort during the winter were now commenced. As a.beginning, the boom boat and deck load of casks were hoisted out, and landed on the beach on the E. side of Dealy Island, a few feet above high- water mark ; this made a consider- able show, and the vessel appeared much larger than heretofore. The topgallant yards were of course sent down, and the masts housed, the jibs and square sails were well stowed, and secured for the winter; the driver and trysails were unbent, and the trysail masts unshipped; these, with the studdingsail booms, eventually served lor ridge poles for the housing stops. Stages were now erected outside on the ice plank from the mainmast aft ; they were formed of capstan bars, the inner end resting on the ice chock, whilst ■ 'i ■ I i h 130 ROUTES OF TRAVELLING PARTIES. the extremities were well supported by the boat's tackle; boats, oars, boarding-pikes, hawsers, and various other articles, found a resting place on them. The ship now looked quite dismantled, a few days having sufficed to effect a complete change in her appearance. The large handmast with which we were supplied was securely lashed to the fore and mainmasts, about thirteen feet from the deck, whilst the smaller one answered for the centre ridge pole for the quarter-deck housing. A studdingsail boom lashed to foremast, and knight- heads, formed the angle of the housing, and the driver boom the ridge spar abaft the mizenmast. Since our arrival here we had been fortunate enough to obtain several musk-oxen; some of them, however, on being brought on board, proved to be unfit for food, in consequence of the bursting of the gall-bladder. At length on Wednesday the 22nd, at 7*30 a.m. the travelling parties, consisting of Lieutenants Me- cham. Pirn, Hamilton, Messrs. Nares and de Bray*, with thirty-six men, five sledges and a cart, fully • M. de Bray (now Lieutenant de Vaisseau and Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur) is an officer of the Imperial Navy of France, who readily volunteered for arctic service, and was appointed to the " Resolute." He was much esteemed by all of us. EXPERIENCE A GALE — ITS EFFECTS. 131 equipped and provisioned for twenty-five days, left the ship for the purpose of laying out dep6ts. On their leaving, the colours were hoisted, and as hearty a cheer as we could muster from the lungs of the small party remaining on board the " Resolute " gave them a sailor's greeting, a heart* felt God-speed to their journey. The following is an outline of their intended routes : — Lieutenant Mecham, with his aid Mr. Nares, to strike across the land from Winter Harbour, in order to deposit provisions for next year's exploration of the south shore of Melville Island, beyond Cape Beechey. Lieutenants Pim and Hamilton, accompanied by M. de Bray, intended, if possible, to place a dep6t in the vicinity of Cape Providence, in readiness for next season, when they will cross the straits to Banks Land and then diverge, Lieutenant Pim to the westward, and Lieutenant Hamilton to the eastward. Early on the morning of the 24th, the wind from the northward increased rapidly, until it bluw a perfect gale, causing considerable drift, which effectually hid from our view the hull of the " Intrepid," though only 100 yards distant. Could this gale have been foreseen, I doubt if the K 2 ;i I 132 PREPARATIONS FOR WINTER. Captain would have permitted the parties to have left the ship. As it was, we experienced consi- derable uneasiness ; all we could do, however, was to hope that even 'midst the dreary regions of the North there was " A sweet little Cherub, who sits up aloft To look out for the life of Poor Jack." The " Resolute " herself was not in the most en- viable situation, for we knew not but that the com- bined action of the wind and tide (it happened to be springs) might loosen the ice to which she was secured ; if such had proved the case, we should have drifted to the southward in a perfectly helpless state. On Saturday the weather moderated a little, although it yet blew strong. With the wind the drift slackened, and we caught a glimpse of the island, and by it we knew our position had not altered. Particulars respecting Dealt/ Island. Latitude . > - Longitude Variation - - - Dip . . - High Water (F. and C.) Rise. — Ordinary springs 74° 56' 25" N. 108° 48' 33" W. 142° 46' E. 88° 25' |h> 3QinIn. 2ft. ^ln> PREPARATIONS FOR WINTER. 133 The following day, from the summit of Dealy Island, we observed a lead of water ten or twelve miles broad, extending from half a mile astern of the ship, east and west as far as we could see. To the westward, in the direction of Cape Bounty, no land ice was visible through a telescope. During the absence of the parties from the " Resolute " we had quite enough work to occupy our attention, A considerable number of casks were taken from the main hold, and stowed under the forecastle, in order to leave a space in the vicinity of Sylvester's stove, for a drying-room for washed clothes, &c. ; the benefit of such an arrangement was fully exemplified during the winter of 1850-51. On that occasion Captain Austin obliged the men to make use of the main hold as a bath room, at least once a week. On top of the casks, sides of bacon, as well as many other articles, were stowed for the winter. The hawsers had, on our first arrival here, been laid across the topgallant yards, which were lashed to three triangles, placed upright on the floe. By some oversight the single leg of each triangle was placed in line, so that on the one side there were six legs, whilst on the other there were but three. As the single legs were observed to K 3 1 iu A BEAR HUNT. have worked into the ice by the weight above, it was considered advisable to remove the hawsers, and stow them on a stage erected across the after part of the forecastle, the ends being supported by the bulwarks. The yards and triangles were stowed on the stages outside, except one, which for a time answered as a guard around the fire hole, until we had time to commence a wall. Saturday J October 2nd. — At 9 p. m. Commander M'Clintock, Dr. Scott and parties, returned on board, having placed a dep6t in the vicinity of Point Reed, in Hecla and Griper Bay. On the 6th a bear was observed on the floe astern of the ship. Mr. Dean and the cooper proceeded in chase, and at length succeeded in despatching the animal about one mile and a half from the ship ; they then returned for a sledge, with which they retraced their steps towards the scene of action, but were unable to approach within half a mile of the spot, on account of the broken state of the same ice, they had crossed an hour before. The carcass was lost in consequence. The following day, Thursday 7th, Commander M'Clintock, accompanied by Dr. Scott and sixteen RETURN OF LIEUT. HAMILTON. 185 ii men, with two sledges and eighteen days' provisions, left once more for Hecla and Griper Bay, in order to lay out his dep6ts, for spring travelling, at a greater distance from the ship. At 11 A.M. George Drover (Captain forecastle "Intrepid") returned on board from the travel- ling parties, — having become ill. His post as captain of Dr. Scott's sledge was filled by Mr. Purchase (engineer), who left in the morning for the purpose of accompanying the sledges a short distance. At 5*30 P.M., Lieutenant Vesey Hamilton and men returned on board after an absence of sixteen days, having placed a dep6t a few miles this side of Cape Providence. A serious mishap occurred to his sledge on the eighth day of his journey ; the ice broke in, and the sledge, with its contents, was very nearly lost. As it was, all the sleeping bags, personal clothing, and a quantity of the provisions were saturated, so that during the remainder of his journey the men were necessitated to sleep in damp bags and clothes, and this at a temperature of 5° below zero, i.e. 37° below freezing point. Their effectually carrying out the object of their journey, after such a disaster, reflects the greatest credit on all composing the party. ' K 4 1 ■ 136 DESPATCH A BALLOON. Friday y Mi, — At 10 a.m. two sledges were observed from the summit of Dealy Island, in the direction of Capo Bounty ; they proved to be those under the charge of Lieutenant Pim and M. do Bray, who had been absent seventeen days, having placed provisions under Cape Providence, on the summit of which they erected a large cairn, with pole. On Monday, 11th, erected a staff on the highest point of Dealy Island, for the purpose of hoisting a flag as a signal to the ship, when the returning parties came in sight. The following day Messrs. Pim, Hamilton, and Domville, with three dogs and sledge, provisioned for three days, proceeded on a shooting excursion up Bridport Inlet. On the 13th another balloon with paper at- tached was sent off; it first took a southerly direction, but in a short time, having reached a different current of air, altered its course to west, and disappeared in that direction. At 9 A.M. on the 14th, the flag on Dealy Island was displayed, and thus we knew that a returning sledge was in sight. At noon, an officer and six men were despatched to assist the party, all of whom (Lieutenant Mecham and ten men) arrived safely alongside at 3*30 p.m. after an absence from DISCOVERY OF NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 137 the ship of twenty-two days, having laid out his dep(^t at Cape Hoppner (Liddon's Gulf). On his return to Winter Harbour he visited the sand- stone boulder, and his surprise may be imagined when from a cylinder (placed on the top of the stone) he drew out a Journal of Proceedings, and chart of discoveries, left by Captain M'Clure in April last. His surprise, however great, could not have exceeded ours on hearing this ex- traordinary news, and many were the comments on this unlooked-for subject of conversation. On one point, however, we were all agreed, and that was, in regretting not visiting the stone whilst the ship was at Winter Harbour. A brief outline of Captain M'Clure's journal, with the annexed copy of his chart, will tend to convey an idea of the energy and perseverance displayed by that zealous officer, on whom has devolved the honour of solving the long pending problem of the existence of a navigable North- west passage, and thus uniting the two great oceans of the Atlantic and Pacific. Extracts from the Journal of Proceedings of H.M. Discovery Ship "Investigator," found by Lieutenant Mecham on the sandstone boulder. Winter Harbour, October 12, 1852 : — t i 138 PROCEEDINGS OF " INVESTIGATOR," July 31«f, 1850. — The " Investigator" parted company with " Herald " off Cape Lisburnc, and on August 2nd sighted the ice in latitude 72*» N., longitude 166° W. On the 5th, whilst running along the pack edge, the " Plover" was descried, numbers were exchanged, but no communication took place. At midnight they rounded Point Barrow, which thick weather rendered invisible. On the 8 th, being off Pc?nt Drew, Mr. Court (second master) and Mr. Miertsching (interpreter) landed to deposit a notice ; here they found some friendly Esqui- maux, who informed them of the passage of three boats to the eastward last season ; these were conjectured to be the boats of Lieutenant Pullen and party, on his way to the Mackenzie river. On the 9th, when forty miles off the entrance of the Colville, they found only three fathoms and a half. On the 11th, two baidars (large Esquimaux boats), containing twenty-four natives, visited the ship near Jones' Island ; they obtained, in exchange for beads and tobacco, salmon and ducks from the natives, whose honesty they had some reason to question. On the 14th, the ship struck on a shoal, but hove off without injury. Unfortunately, however, a whale boat, in which they had placed eleven casks of beef to lighten the ship, capsised, and the casks sunk. By this accident they experienced the sad loss of 3344 lbs. of meat. On the 2l8t, they sighted the Pelly Islands (off the Mackenzie); when near Point Warren on the 24th, they communicated with a warlike tribe, who expressed their unwillingness to have any dealings with them, stating as a reason, that the Hudson's Bay Company had given Indians water (rum ?) which caused their death. AND DISCOVERY OF NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 139 A great number of natives visited the ship on the 1 st September, off Cape Bathurst, and the same evening the " Investigators " took their final leave of the Esquimaux on the American coast ; they are described as a quiet, inoffensive people, who appeared well disposed towards Europeans (except those at Point Warren). The coast was found to be shallow ; but as soundings are regular, it may be safely navigated by strict attention to the lead and look out. The natives assured them that water, varying from one mile to forty in breadth, may be relied on from the beginning of August to the 10th Sep- tember, more or less ice-encumbered according to the winds, which they found to prevail from E.S.E. to N.E. On September 6th, being to the northward of Cape Parry, high land was discovered from N.E. to E.N.E. The following day this land was taken possession of in the name of Her Majesty, and named Baring Island*; the shore to the southward rises to an elevation of 3000 feet above the level of the sea. A signal pole with black ball was erected in latitude 71° 8' N., longitude 122° 48' W. On the 9th, land was observed bearing N.N.E. which was named Prince Albert's Land ; this was afterwards proved to be part of Wollaston and Victoria Lands. I cannot do better than quote their own words of October 8th: — " Since the 11th of last month, have been drifting in the pack, and narrowly escaped destruction several times, until with a heavy nip at 3 a. m. this day, which listed the ship 3°, we were firmly fixed for the space of nine months, in latitude 72° 47' !N., longitude * Afterwards proved to be part of Banks Land, and now so called. Ill 140 PROCEEDINGS OF "INVESTIGATOR," 117" 34' W." A volume is condensed in the above few lines. They wintered the first season in a strait named after the Prince of Wales. Near their quarters were two small islands (Princess Royal Islands) ; on one of them is a large cairn with pole and ball, close to which are three months' provisions for sixty men; a boat with ammunition was also left there. October 2lst. — Commander M*Clure, Mr. Court, and six men, left the ship to trace the strait to the northward. On the 26th, they discovered the entrance into Barrow's Straits, which, to quote their own wordn, "establishes the existence of a North-west passage." Five musk-oxen were killed on Prince Albert's Land up to the end of December. 1851. April IBth. — Three travelling parties were des- patched: Lieutenant Haswell to the S.E., Lieutenant Cresswell to the northward, along Banks Land, and Mr. Wynniatt (mate) to the N.E. ; they reached the following positions respectively : — Lieutenant Haswell, latitude 70° 38' N., longitude 115° 0' W. ; Lieutenant Cresswell, lati- tude 74** 16' N., longitude '117° 40' W. ; Mr. Wynniatt (D. R.), latitude 72° 6' N., longitude 107° 42' W. On the 2nd June, Commander M'Clure and Mr. Miertsching communicated with some Esquimaux, about sixty miles to the southward of their position, on Prince Albert's Land ; from them was obtained the outline of the land (dotted) beyond the furthest of Lieutenant Hasv» sU, who had first communicated with them. Juli/ I4:th, — The ice opened, and they were again on the move, but so surrounded by the pack, as to render the movements of the ship dependent on the ice. Up to AND DISCOVERY OF NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 141 the 14th August, they had only been enabled to make use of their sails on two occasions, and that only for a few hours. During this period they had been carried to the northward, and attained a position in latitude 73° 14' N., longitude 115° 32y W. On the 16th, finding that the prevailing N.E. winds kept the ice across the entrance of the strait, thus forming an effectual barrier to their further progress, they bore up, and ran to the southward of Baring Island.* For four days they continued in clear water, skirting along the coast within a mile of the shore. But when in latitude 74° 27' N., longitude 122° 32' W., their pro- gress was again arrested by th . heavy pack being close home on the shore. From this date (the 20th) until September 24th they encountered the peril of being crushed daily, and on several occasions escaped by a miracle. Once they were forced on shore by the pack, but fortunately succeeded in getting off without much injury. At length, on the 24th, they reached the Bay of Mercy (vide chart), where they spent the winter of '51-52. He describes their last winter quarters as being good in every respect. Commander M'Clure appears to think the currents along the coast of America are greatly influenced by the winds ; but is very decided in stating that a continued easterly set is found on the west side of Baring Islandf, and that the flood tide sets from the westward. The eminences in the neighbourhood of the Bay of Mercy are described as the resort of rein-deer and hares. During the winter they succeeded in procuring 4000 lbs. of fresh meat. * Banks Land. t Ibid. 142 PROCEEDINGS OF "INVESTIGATOR," The health of his crew had been extraordinary, for not a single casualty had occurred up to the date of his departure from the Bay of Mercy. He concludes by stating it to be his intention to return to England (if possible) by Melville Island and Port Leopold, but adds : '* If we should not be again heard of, in all probability we shall have been carried into the Polar pack, or to the westward of Melville Island ; in either case any attempt to send succour would be to in- crease the evil, as any ship that enters the Polar pack would be inevitably crushed ; therefore a depot of pro- visions, or a ship at "Winter Harbour, is the best and only certainty for the safety of the surviving crews." They had seen no traces, nor received any information which would lead them to imagine any of Sir John Franklin's Expedition had reached the shores they visited. The document from which the above extracts are taken was deposited by Commander M*Clure in April last; it bore the date of April 12th, 1852, on board the ** Investigator " in the Bay of Mercy. The sledge's crew was composed of Commander M'Clure : Mr. Step. Court (second master) : John Calder, Capt. Forecastle : Sergeant Woon, R. M. : Geo. Gibbs, A.B. : — Sam. Bounsell, A. B. : Jno. Davis, A. B. : Peter Thompson, Capt. Foretop. In a note annexed. Commander M'Clure states he did not intend to re-visit Melville Island, unless he found a vessel there, but would make the best of his way down the straits. m The above remarks require no comment from me, but I cannot refrain from expressing my ad- AND DISCOVERY OF NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 143 miration of the zeal and determination of the gallant " Investigators," under the trying circumstances in which they have been placed, being, as I am, fully acquainted with the nature of the obstacles they must have overcome. 1 trust that the Almighty may preserve them in perfect health, to return to their homes and friends, with their brows crowned with success, and that they may receive the reward due to the enterprising few, who have proved themselves such a credit to their country and profession. The success attending their travelling is very remarkable, as may be observed on looking at the chart. Lieutenant Haswell's furthest is only a few miles north of Dr. Rae's, visited in the same month; whilst Mr. Wynniat only left a space of thirty miles unexplored, between his turning point and the extreme attained by Lieutenant Sherard Osbom. The whole of the south coast of Barrow's Straits has now been traced, whilst the connection between Prince Albert's Land and that of Wollaston is proved beyond a doubt. It is a strange coincidence that Captain M*Clure and Dr. Rue should name the same land after His Royal Highness. There was a question respecting the propriety of i 144 PROPOSED RELIEF OP "INVESTIGATOR." I I i^ ii immediately despatching a party from the " Reso- lute " to the Bay of Mercy, in hopes of yet finding the "Investigator" there; but the large body of water seen by Lieutenant Pim off Cape Providence, setting aside the little chance of their being exactly in the same position, the lowness of the tempera- ture, the advance of the winter, and increasing darkness, rendered the undertaking a very perilous one. After due deliberation, all were unanimously of opinion that the idea should be abandoned, as one which, for a remote chance of conveying agreeable tidings, would most assuredly risk the lives of all composing the party. It was, therefore, resolved to despatch a sledge as early in the spring as possible, in hopes of finding them, if they had not passed to the east- ward, and failing that, to obtain intelligence which all felt would be left in a conspicuous place, near their late winter quarters in the Bay of Mercy. The night Lieutenant Mecham returned proved very boisterous ; and the temperature fell, as the wind increased from the northward; we all felt concerned for Mr. Nares, whom we knew to be within a day's march of the vessel. The following day (the 16th) various parties ascended the island II MR. NARES RETURNS ON BOARD. 145 for the purpose of looking out for the expected sledge ; nor were they disappointed, for at 3*30 p.m. it was descried in the direction of Cape Bounty. An officer with men left immediately to assist in dragging, but as the sledge came round the north point of Dealy Island (instead of the south as was expected), the assistance of the fatigue party was not obtained. The Captain and myself walked out to meet them, and were much pleased to find " all well," though they had suffered somewhat from the severity of the weather the previous night. In addition to several of the men being frost-bitten, the floe on which they had encamped became loosened, and a lane of water, fifteen or twenty feet wide, effectually pre- vented their regaining the land floe. After unpacking the sledge — no pleasant matter in cold weather — they last evening with difiiculty succeeded in pushing it across the ice, which had formed during the night on the lane alluded to above. Judging from its appearance, Mr. Nares thought the ice would bear the weight of a man, and ven- tured to attempt crossing; he however paid a severe penalty, by being soused in the water up to his neck. i 146 A DISAGREEABLE DUCKING. An immersion of this description may appear in a laughable light to the reader, but he must be reminded that there was no Royal Humane So- ciety, with hot beds, and hotter brandy-and-water, to restore the blood to a proper degree of circula- tion. However, we were glad enough to get him and his party on board, without any further casualty. All travelling was now over, at least for the reason, and a few days were devoted to musk-ox, gelatine soups, beer, and various other little luxuries, in order to refresh the wearied travellers after their tiresome marches. 147 CHAP. VII. The first Death. — Character of the Deceased. — Funeral of Thomas Mobley. — A few Remarks on fitting " Housings," Winter Hatches, &c. — Arrangements for the Winter. — Departure of the Sun. — Last View of the Sun. — Guy Fawkes' Day. — Strange Noises in the Offing Preparation for the Theatre — The Prologue. — The Performance. — A few Words on the Theatre. Our thoughts were now bent on completing our arrangements for the winter, which all on board the "Resolute" determined should pass as plea- santly as good fellowship could make it. As may be supposed, each traveller had various interesting incidents to recount to the envious few (myself among the number) who had the mis- fortune to be tied up on board. They each and all saw numerous herds of deer and musk-oxen. Wolves, hares, and foxes were also observed. I shall not enter into a detail of what each saw or killed, but refer the reader to the subjoined result of our sporting exploits, since sighting the shores of Melville Island, which we most certainly have found to abound in animal life. h 2 148 THE FIRST DEATH. Up to this period our little community had, thanks to God, been preserved in good health, with every prospect of its continuance, but alas, " in the midst of life we are in death," and the truthfulness of this was sadly exemplified in the melancholy case I am about to relate. Our steward, Thomas Mobley (marine), had for some time past been incapable of any great ex- ertion, and the surgeon was aware of the cause, viz. a latent disease of the heart ; but hoped by dint of precaution, to ward off its effects for some time. On Monday the 18th, the poor fellow in- cautiously went on deck, without being properly clad for the change of temperature, between the lower deck and that of the atmosphere. A few minutes afterwards, he fell down dead ; his pulse I believe, did beat for about a minute, but no other signs of life appeared after his fall. He was immediately conveyed to the sick-bay, where every remedy that experience and kindness suggested was promptly applied, but unfortunately without effect. Few things in my somewhat eventful life, have produced a more saddening effect than that occasioned by the death of this man — who was beloved and respected by all on board — and this CHARACTER OF THE DECEASED. 149 must not be considered in the light of common- place observation ; the respect of the officers and men towards him was sincere. He was beloved by his shipmates for his amiable qualities, and res- pected by the officers for his trustworthy character. In him our mess experienced the loss of an invaluable servant, who could not be replaced. An upright man, and I believe a sincere Christian, he died as he had lived — " the noblest work of God " — an honest man. The following day, a spot near the beach on the eastern shore of Dealy Island was selected for the burial place, and parties were sent daily to dig a grave, but the frozen state of the ground rendered this no easy matter, and many days were occupied in getting a sufficient depth beneath the surface, and even then we were compelled to rest satisfied with only two feet eight inches; and to eiFect this, powder was obliged to be resorted to, in addition to pickaxes, shovels, and the usual imple- ments for digging. On Monday, 25th, Commander M'Clintock with the travelling parties under his charge returned to the ship, after an absence of nineteen days. He had succeeded in placing a dep6t on Point Nias, in Hecla and Griper Bay. The difficulties he h 3 150 rUNERAL OF THOMAS MOBLET. encountered were of no ordinary nature, but with his usual perseverance he overcame them. Many ravines intersected his route ; these of course he was obliged to cross : the labour in doing so with heavily-laden sledges may be imagined, particularly on the ascending slope, for, however gentle the ascent, the resistance of the sledge must increase with every degree of inclination. Tuesday^ 26fA. — At 10 a.m. the officers and men of both vessels assembled for the purpose of attending the funeral of the late Thomas Mobley. A considerable drift raised by a strong wind from the northward rendered the day particularly un- pleasant. The mournful procession was headed by his comrades with arms reversed, then the coffin drawn on a sledge, and covered by a sailor's pall — the Union Jack — the corpse was followed by the officers and men. As the march commenced, the ensigns on board the ships were hoisted half-mast, and the bells were slowly tolled, sending forth across the snowy plain a most mournful sound. Few things are more impressive than the burial of a sailor at sea, when the progress of the stately ship is arrested, whilst the simple but beautiful 1 % \ *! V ■■ H- in th€ I: I A FEW REMARKS ON PITTING "HOUSINGS." 151 service for the dead is read, previous to committing the body to the deep. But situated as we were, the loss of one from our little community was deeply felt, and led the thoughtful mind into a train of deep reflection. After the funeral service three volleys were fired over the grave, when we returned on board. Our arrangements for winter were by this time quite completed, the housings were spread as far aft as the mizenmast, and the curtains nailed down. I do not, however, approve of the plan, being of opinion they should be fitted with stops, to allow of their being triced up in fine weather; this was successfully carried out in the " Resolute " in '50-51. During the fine days, even in the depth of winter, tricing the curtains up formed part of the morning routine, and the beneficial effects arising from a free circulation were much appre- ciated ; and in blowing weather, by tricing up the lee curtaiii, the dense volumes of smoke accumu- lated under the housing were dispelled, and the purity of the atmosphere consequently improved. As we are now fitted, the impurities generated in the lower deck have but two ways of escaping; the one by a scuttle (the size of a cot frame), cut in the ho\ising over the fore-hatchway, or by tra- L 4 152 WINTER HATCHES, ETC. # versing the whole length of the deck, they may possibly make their exit through the opening astern. The companions of the various hatchways had been removed for some time, and replaced by others fitted in England expressly for winter quarters. The after one had been closed altogether, in order to keep up a proper degree of temperature in the holds, spirit, and store rooms. The doors were fitted with weights and pulleys, and a scraper was provided to take off snow or dirt, the entire removal of which was ensured by using a good strong coir brush provided for the purpose, and suspended on a nail driven into the planking of the hatchway. The operation of snowing the deck, and banking ap around the ship, was necessarily slow. By the end of the month all was finished * ; the snow on the deck, including a layer of cement, composed of fine gravel and snow well mixed together, was nine inches from the deck. Outside the ship, at a distance of six feet all round, was built a wall four feet and a half high, the space was then filled in with snow and tapered off from the top of the wall, to as high as the lower part of the ice plank. November \st. — The attention of the oflicers was * This is a mistake ; snowing the upper deck was not com- pleted till the end of the first week in November. ARRANGEMENTS FOR THE WINTER. 153 now devoted to the instruction and amusement of the men, during the long tedious months of the ensuing winter, and several consultations were held, in order to devise the ways and means of carrying out so laudable an object.* The result was, that Captain Kellett, Dr. Dom- ville, and myself were elected the " Theatrical Committee of Management," and we set to work in right earnest. The men fell most readily into the views of the officers, and great unanimity of pur- pose prevailed throughout, rendering our task as committee men comparatively easy. But instruction also formed part of the system intended to be adopted, and classes were accordingly arranged, and presided over by several of the officers, who had kindly volunteered their services for the purpose. My class, professedly for the purpose of impart- ing a knowledge of navigation, consisted of eight pupils ; two of them wished to perfect themselves in nautical astronomy, whilst the remainder were all, more or less, acquainted with plane trigonometry and the sailings. * The admirable arrangements of Sir Edward Parry, the pioneer of arctic enterprise, formed the basis of all subsequent occupations and amusements on board the numerous ships of the Royal Navy, which have from time to time wintered in the arctic regions. 4 I 154 DEPARTURE OF THE SUN. November 2nd The morning was fine, with a light air from the northward, the moon had now been above the horizon for several days and nights past, and was now shining brightly, in company with Venus, Aldebaran, and Saturn ; but these could not reconcile us to the departure of the sun, which left us on the 3rd, unless indeed, we were fortunate enough to have a clear day, and much re- fraction on the 4th. Happily the day proved fine, and at 10*45 a.m. the enlightened limb of the sun was just perceptible above the horizon. At noon, the teraperature 18° — , the Captain and myself took the meridian altitude of the sun's upper and lower limb, and were thus enabled to ascertain the amount of refraction ; the following results were obtained : — November 4th, 1852. Noon. Barometer 3017 + 47 Thermometer 18°— © Dec. S. 15 31 24 8 + 5 33-7 Corr. dec. 15 36 58-5 Lat. 74 56 25 N. Zen. dist. 90 33 23 or + 45-72 7-3 13716 32004 333-756 0** 33' 23" below horizon by computation. £2£2. astn-^ - j.!-- LAST VIEW OF THE SUN. 155 Capt. Kellett. Azimuth and Altitude Instrument. // 25 40 16 10 semidiameter. 9 30 33 23 42 53 actual refraction. 32 6 ref. and par. (mean temp.) app. -Q- 10 47 increase of ref. for 18°—. G. F. M'DouGALL.— By Sext. 2113. Index Error Nil. 30 30 3 30 34 ■e 17 4 11 dip. 12 49 Below horizon 33 23 by computation. 46 12 actual refraction. Mean ref. and par. 32 39 at mean temp. Increase of ref. 13 33 for temp. 18°—. Do. (Cap. K.) 10 47 Do. 24 20 Mean increase of ref. 12 10 for temp. 18° — . This day was altogether one of the finest we had experienced since our arrival here. The sky to the southward was composed of the most brilliant tints; crimson and an intense yellow predomi- nating. At 1*15 P.M. the upper limb sank beneath !:■-» 156 GUY FAWKES' DAY. i;' I the golden-liued horizon ; the tints gradually became fainter, as the arch of light travelled to the west- ward. And thus the sun departed on a tour to the southward, sincerely regretted by all on board. Alas! like other friends, until lost, his value was not sufficiently appreciated. Friday^ November 5th. — This morning, whilst at breakfast, sounds of revelry with occasional cheers were heard alongside, and on reaching the deck to ascertain the cause, we found the fame of that cele- brated personage Guy Fawkes, had penetrated even to the remote shores of Melville Island. The felon looked as " well as could be expected " under the trying circumstances in which he was placed ; for being strapped down to a chair is not the pleasantest way of taking exercise, as it in some measure retards the circulation. His satanic majesty in full costume was in close attendance, a type of his being constantly at Guy's elbow. Having paraded the hero of the day to their hearts' content, he was set aside to keep until the evening, when amidst the sounds of gongs, drums, and unearthly yells, that would have brought tears of envy into the eyes of a New Zealander or a Dyak, the effigy was committed to the flames. Thursday f Nov. llth. — During the middle watch STRANGE NOISES IN THE OFFING. 157 a strange creaking noise was heard in the offing ; this was attributed to the action of the (spring) tide on the ice. In order to satisfy myself on the subject, I took a walk during the forenoon in the direction from Avhence the noise proceeded, and found at the distance of about half a mile from the ship, a nipped-up barrier of ice, about five feet in height, extending E. and W. as far as the now gloomy light enabled us to see. The morning was unusually still, and thus the effect of the noise was considerably heightened. It resembled the sound produced by the "sough- ing" of a dying gale through the cordage of a ship, or the noise of a distant cascade. Many causes were assigned, some imagining it to be the pent-up air rushing through the fissures in the floe, others the movement of the ice in the offing. I believe both these causes were in operation, but I also think there must have been a third, viz. that of a current of air rushing through the atmosphere. This opinion was strengthened when we arrived on board ; the same noise, though not so loud, was heard distinctly, as if a moderate breeze was pass- ing through the rigging ; at this time there was scarcely a breath of air. I now foretold the approach of a southerly gale ; for not only did I 158 PREPARATIONS FOR THE THEATRE. imagine I heard the wind without feeling it, but I judged the current of air to be coming from the southward, from the fact that the noise was more distinct when standing under the bows of the ship (lying N.N.W. and S.S.E.) than under the stern : that day at noon it was blowing a strong breeze from S.S.E. ; barometer rising. I do not wish it to be imagined because my supposition re- specting the gale proved correct, that I was equally so in regard to the noises. I merely relate the circumstance as it occurred, feeling that such re- marks should be noted ; for how often has the veriest trifle solved the most abstruse problem, and opened out to the scientific and inquiring mind, an enlarged field for meditation and discovery. Nov. 23rc?. — All has been hurry and bustle for the last fortnight, in preparing scenes, decorations, dresses, &c., for the theatre. In addition to being a committee man, I was obliged to take on myself the responsible offices of scene painter and dress- maker ; the former was sufficiently difficult in con- sequence of the want of proper materials ; to remedy which we were obliged to have recourse to soot, blacking, chalk, &c. The dress-making business was, indeed, extremely puzzling, particularly in the ladies' department ; ! ( • * THE PROLOGUE. 159 but success attended our enterprising efforts, and although much criticised, elicited warm expressions of admiration. The skirts and polka jackets had been brought from England. A stiff duck petticoat made ii capital substitute for a hair ditto ; this, with the addition of a comforter stuffed with oakum, made the after part of the dress resemble a miniature St. Paul's dome. This evening the Theatre Royal, Melville Island, was re-opened after a lapse of thirty-two years. Indeed, no dramatic corps had visited the Island since the breaking up of the first establishment under the management of Captain Parry, in 1820. On the curtain rising, the following prologue (which I had written for the occasion) was spoken by Dr. Domville, in character, as " The Hyper- borean King " : — 'Tis now some two and thirty years ago, This region of eternal ice and snow Was first discovered by one Edward Parry, Who near this spot eleven months did tarry ; Ice-bound as you are now, — like you in hope Next season's summer sun the ice might ope. Their coming here I deemed a great intrusion, And thought to cover all with dire confusion : Frost-bites I sent, and covered them with scars ; They murmured not, but laughed, like jolly British tars. il.: Hi 160 THE PROLOQITE. I then forgave them, for I could not fool rosentmont, 'Gainst men who 'midst privation had contentment. You're welcome for their sakes, — I can't dissemble, For you, your persevering predecessors do resemble In everything — including killing deer, and oven my musk- oxen You coolly shoot, and then with musket knock 'em Down : their carcasses next skin and bear off, Whilst not a particle of meat I get a share of. But I o'erlook it all. You see I've come to-day To join you as of old in forwarding the play. Weil! 'tis a splendid house, quite equals Parry's, And far surpasses that of Mr. Barry's Houses of Parliament, for you I see don't need The ventilating process used by Doctor Reid. And Brothers, for such we are by common consanguinity, Let's live as such, in constant unanimity. Take exercise, be cheerful, and care throw aside, Cold, darkness, and monotony you may thus deride : For even here that cherub sweet, with heart both kind and soft. The life of Jack holds dear ; — she's watching now — aloft 1 Last spring a herald from the Tchoutschi's king Told me this season to my realms would bring A " Resolute " and " Intrepid " band, and bid me tell it, In order to surprise his friend, their leader — Captain Kellett. {A bell rings.) But hark — a bell ! ah ! that's a hint to close my long oration ; They're anxious to appear, my friends, to gain your appro- bation ; But remember they're beginners, for I know they've fondly reckoned. On your kindness to gloss lightly o'er the faults of Charles the Second. THE PERFORMANCE. 161 Tlien followed the amusing historical drama of "Charles the Second," the characters being sus- tain. 1 by the following officers. Charles II. Uochoster - Edward (a page) • Capt. Copp Ludy Clara Mury - Liuut. Meclmm. • Dr. Domville. • Lieut. Pim. - Mr. Krabbe. - Mr. Nares. - Mr. M'Dougall. A few amusing songs entertained the company, during the interregnum between the plays. The second piece of the evening (acted by the seamen), was the laughable farce of . "WHO SPEAKS FIRST." Mr. Militant Capt. Charles Potter (Survant) Mrs. Militant Smart (Servant) Scrgt. Hobbs. Black well (P.S.) Joy (I. Q. M.) Northhouse (A.B.) Mumford (C. C.) " God save the Queen " was played by the band, on the fall of the curtain ; and the company separated, well pleased with the evening's entertain- ments, which went off admirably. Un petit souper^ hospitably provided by Captain Kellett, was done ample justice to ; nor were the men forgotten on the occasion, but made a plea- M I ■»i(i»»»^'rt«]rim i 162 A FEW WORDS ON THE THEATRE. sant finish with a glass of grog, and something to eat. Amateur theatricals are seldom subjected to severe criticism, even where there are the advantages of being able to select suitable costumes, and choose from a numerous circle of friends or acquaintances, persons competent to sustain an assumed character with some degree of klat: but here, where the dreary darkness of an Arctic winter affects the mind and body in no small measure, where the temperature is at zero on the stage (no joke in petticoats), besides having to depend on our own resources, where is the man who could look at such performances with a too critical eye ? Taking a part as I did in the play, I shall say but little respecting its merits or demerits ; but, in mere justice to those with whom I was associated, it is but fair to add, that in the opinion of all present, the action and delivery would have reflected no dis- credit on a London stage. The scenic arrangements, under the entire control of Mr. Dean (carpenter), were perfect^ every respect. 163 w ill '5 3 \l CHAP. viir. M Routino of the Day during the Winter. — Employment. — An Aurora. — Musk-Oxen seen in Mid-winter. — Death of Georgo Drover. — The Absoneo of Light. — Entertained by the " In- trepids." — Christmas Day. — Wind, Weather, &c. — De- crease of Temperature. — Preparations for Travelling. — Two Ptarmigan shot. — A Hare killed. — Rencontre with a Bear. — A few Words about Thermometers. — Theatrical Per- formances. — Expected Appearance of the Sun. — The Pro- digal's Return. — Observed Refraction. — Face Protectors. — The Necessity of a Companion when walking. — Direction of intended Canal. — Visited by a Native — Bear. — A Gale. — Absence of two Officers. — Strange Eiffects of Cold. — Furious Gale. — Re-stow Aftor-hold with Gravel. — Pro- visions for Travelling Parties. — Mode of preparing Pouiican. — Articles of Equipment. The events of the past month, though not very striking, were not entirely devoid of interest. It is not my intention to enter at length on the daily routine, but rather glance at the general nature of the duties, which weie so arranged as to give to every man a fair and requisite amount of exercise in the open air. H 2 '6 i| 'I II i ►■* 164 EMPLOYMENT. After divisions, at 8*45 a.m., the men repaired to the various duties assigned to them, which on fine days, were invariably in the open air, — removing the accumulation of snow-drift from around the ship, — bringing off gravel, — completing wall round fire- hole, — and building a snow-house for the obser- vatory. The low state of the temperature prevented the mechanics working in the open air, but in order to ensure their exercise, they walked the floe or deck until lO'O A.M., when their daily work commenced. Dinner at noon, and supper at 5*30 p.m., completed the working portion of the day ; after this, those who wished, received instruction from the officers, or otherwise amused themselves. In order to ensure a good article, no time was lost in setting the shoemakers to work on the travelling boots, the body being composed of can- vas, the heel being strengthened and stiffened by an additional piece. Their shape, to be sure, was not such as would obtain custom if displayed in a shop-front in Regent Street, but as comfort and durability were the two most important qualities to be desired in their construction, an elegant shape could well be dispensed with. 1 ; AN AURORA. 165 They were made sufficiently large to contain with ease two pairs of socks, a pair of blanket wrappers, and a pair of boot-hose ; and even this stock might have been added to, without incon- veniencing the foot. In order to avoid the discomfort arising from a loose boot, each man provided himself with a pair of " ankle straps," or, as the men termed them, "kicking jennies;" they were made of canvas, and, passing round the heel, were kept down by a leathern strap, and laced over the instep. The carpenters had already commenced repairing the sledges, many of them having suffered during the autumn travelling ; particularly those that had been employed on the land. The phenomena, up to the 30th instant, had been very meagre, only a few faint " aurorae," and in- distinct paraselenae being observed; but on the night of the 30th, between the hours of ten and eleven, an aurora of unusual splendour made its ap- pearance, extending from S.S.E. to W.N.W., in lateral bands of light of great brilliancy, from which ever-changing coruscations shot up in the direction of the zenith. The whole was tinted with a beautiful straw colour, probably occasioned by the presence of the moon, which (with other celestial f il M y il i « i M 3 f mma tt 166 MUSK-OXEN SEEN IN MID-WINTER. * objects) was shining brightly from a perfectly cloudless sky. Sunday, December 5th. — A brace of ptarmigan were seen this day, by Messrs. Krabbe and Ibbets, on the north side of Dealy Island. They were reported to be very sluggish in their movements, scarcely deigning to take wing, but proving more than a match for their pursuers. On the following day, Lieuts. Hamilton and Mecham took a walk on the shore, when, to their surprise, they observed a herd of fourteen musk- oxen (including calves !) — thus setting at rest, beyond all doubt, the various opinions respecting the migration of these animals. Tuesday, lilt. — A northerly gale sprung up this forenoon, and with but little intermission, con- tinued for a period of ten days. It is worthy of note that the snow-drift decreased perceptibly after the first few days. Sunday, 12th. — At 2 a.m. this morning George Drover (Captain of forecastle " Intrepid ") breathed his last. It may be remembered that he was obliged by indisposition to return to his ship, from the travelling parties of Commander M'Clintock, on the 7th of October last. From that period he had gradually declined in DEATH OF GEORGE DROVER. 167 health, and for some weeks past his case was known to be hopeless — within the last few days there were symptoms of improvement, but it proved to be the reaction of the body previous to its final dissolution. The expedition by his death, expe- rienced the loss of a good petty-officer in every sense of the word. On Sunday the 19^A, after divine service, the officers and crew of the " Resolute " proceeded on board the "Intrepid," where it had been arranged that the burial service should be read, as the tem- perature (20° minus) was too low to expose the men for any length of time, in a standing position, in the open air. The deceased was then conveyed to his last resting-place, beside the grave of our much regretted steward. Much difficulty had been experienced in digging a grave ; for in addition to the heavy gale, which increased the discomfort, whilst performing such a melancholy task, the ground was frozen as hard as granite, on which the crow-bars, pickaxes, and shovels made little or no impression. The tem- perature, varying from 17° to 30° minus, rendered it necessary to pitch a tent over the grave, in order to shelter the men from the wind. After five days' work, they were obliged to have recourse M 4 168 ABSENCE OF LIGHT. to a wood fire, which was lighted on the spot, to thaw the surface. At length, after a week's labour, a depth of two feet ten inches was obtained — in this poor Drover was buried.* The advent of the shortest day (the 21st) was welcomed with feelings of pleasure by all on board, for it was the turning point of the winter, when, although the temperature might reasonably be expected to increase in severity, the light, — that great and blessed gift of the Almighty, — would gradually increase to a continued day of several months' duration. Indeed, of all the discomfort attendant on wintering within the Arctic Circle, none perhaps is so much felt as the absence of light, which changes the aspect of nature, by throwing a veil of gloom alike o'er hill and dale, and affects in a slight degree the human body, it is also in- jurious to the mind; the temper becomes irri- table, the mental energies impaired, and the habits of some gloomy and solitary. But the sweet and soothing influence of memory, assisted by bright hopes for the future, tend to sustain the spirits, under the chilling influence of a • The use of gunpowder might obviate this difficulty, as the hardest rocks are blasted with little labour. ENTERTAINED BY THE " INTREPIDS." 169 position at once novel and unnatural, amidst eternal ice and snow ; and existing between two atmo- spheres, which frequently differed 100° in ten steps of a ladder. The evening of the 23rd was devoted to witness- ing a series of tricks in legerdemain, interspersed with songs, recitations, &c. Captain M'Clintock and Lieut. Pim had, with the most praiseworthy zeal and forethought, gone to considerable expense in providing amusing tricks which were entrusted to Mr. Krabbe, the M. Robin of these realms. Nothing could have gone off with greater eclat than the entertainments of the evening; the laughter and surprise were at times intense, par- ticularly when the qualities of the " inexhaustible bottle " were, to the intense delight of the recipients of its contents, proved to be something beyond mere fiction. After the performances, which terminated at an early hour, the officers of the " Intrepid " were " at home " and made the " Resolute's " so, to an ample spread, over which an agreeable hour or two was spent. And now Christmas was at hand, a season filled with the most pleasing reminiscence of happy scenes, where English hospitality stands pre- 170 CHRISTMAS DAY. .;. t : eminent, and English beauty unrivalled. Where is the man whose heart will fail to warm with sen- timents of love and veneration towards a land, the people of which are respected for their virtues, and envied for their greatness by the whole uni- verse ! Christmas Day at length arrived, and many were the expressions of good will and friendship in- terchanged. The " Intrepids," with their usual hospitality, provided luncheon ; and, after a walk for an appetite, all the officers of the squadron met at 5 P.M. in the gun-room of the " Resolute," and sat down to a substantial dinner. Besides other delicacies, there was a splendid piece of roast beef (killed in April), an Arctic hare, and a noble haunch of Arctic venison weighing twenty-one pounds. The latter was the favourite dish, and called forth the unqualified praise of all present. The evening was spent agreeably over a new and amusing game (called " Quack ") introduced by Lieut. Mecham. I had almost forgotten to say, the men had an extra allowance issued, and at 1 p.m. sat down to good fare, the various tables being decorated with transparencies, flags, and devices of various de- scriptions alike appropriate and tasteful. The experience of the past months have enabled us to ascertain, beyond a doubt, that the prevailing WIND, WEATHER, ETC. 171 winds in our immediate neighbourhood come from the northward : and that strong winds, accompanied by violent gusts, occur oftener than light, or even moderate, breezes. Another fact, equally strange, is the continued gloomy state of the weather. Clear and cloudless days being " few and far between." Parry, in Winter Harbour, in 1819-20, experi- enced similar winds, but enjoyed much finer weather than we have had ; so also did the expedition under the command of Captain Austin, near Griffith's Island, during the winter of 1850-51. The cause of the sudden squalls puzzled us not a little; for although within half a mile of Dealy Island, with the ship's head between it and the main land, we could not attribute the squalls to the proximity of the island to the main, as both were comparatively low, inclining with a gentle slope to the beach. We at length came to the conclusion that the sudden variations in its force were occasioned by the wind rushing through the deep gorges to the northward of the inlet, where the land was high and precipitous ; intersected by deep ravines through which, in all probability, the melted snows in sununcr find a passage to the sea. ! 1 1! i i # \\ fl 5 i ' 172 NEW YEAR DECREASE OF TEMPERATURE. The New Year was ushered in with a lower degree of temperature than we had yet experienced. On the 2nd mercury * became solid for the first time, and from this we may fairly date the commence- ment of the months of extreme cold. On the 4th the thermometer stood at 48° minus, being within half a degree of the lowest we had ex- perienced in 1850-51 ; the day was fine and still, and the arch of light to the southward had increased perceptibly during the past week ; and with it, in spite of the intense cold, we experienced an increase of pleasure in taking our accustomed and necessary exercise, which was generally between the hours of eleven and two ; for we then enjoyed the greatest degree of light. The New Year tended to remind us that time was passing rapidly, and that in the course of less than three months, all the strength and energy of our crew must be devoted to long and perilous marches, and be subjected, not only to the absence of com- forts, but the presence of great privations. Not a moment was now to be lost, for there was quite sufficient work to occupy all on board in making the requisite preparations for travelling; and for landing a large quantity of provisions and * Mercury becomes solid at 39^° minus. w PREPARATIONS FOR TRAVELING. 173 clothing on Dealy Island, in anticipation of the possibility of Captains CoUinson and M'Clurc being obliged to abandon their ships, and wend their way home by Melville Island. Bacon, which under the forecastle had become like slabs of granite, was taken below, and placed beside the Sylvester stove ; and even there, several days elapsed ere it became in a fit state to be sub- jected to the process of boiling. Shoemakers had for the last two months been employed making boots ; the sailmakers were busy about the tents, robes, macintoshes, and other articles necessary for the perfect equipment of a tent. Each man, during his leisure hours, em- ployed himself making his travelling costume, whilst the officers were " going in " to the weights of the various articles, and scorned not to work out the total to ounces; in short, there was not an idler on board. My office, in addition to my usual duties, was to prepare printed records, containing the neces- sary information respecting the whereabouts of ships and provisions ; these records were made into a book similar to those in use on board the Thames steamers for tickets. I also made twenty charts of the discoveries up to this period ; they were to be !:,! ■# 174 TWO PTARMIGAN SHOT. / deposited by the travelling officers, at certain stages on their routes. A solitary ptarmigan had been observed more than once, during the past week, on Dealy Island, and so sluggish were its movements, that an at- tempt was made to capture it, but without success ; but on this day, Friday 7th, a ptarmigan, in com- plete winter plumage, was shot by Lieut. Pim ; the bird weighed two pounds and a half, and appeared very plump. The contents of the crop consisted entirely of sprigs of the dwarf-willow, most of them not yet digested ; the whole nearly filled a good-sized tea-cup. On the 8th, a second was killed by Dr. Domville. On the 10th the curtain of poop-housing, on the port side, was triced up, and threw a welcome gleam of light along the deck ; the following day three (2-ton) tanks were hoisted out, and conveyed to the south point of Dealy Island, where it was determined to leave the ddp6t. The tanks will, as the summer advances, be filled with bread, pre- served potatoes, and other perishable articles. On the 14th, the "Intrepids" gave another pleasing entertainment, when, to feats of legerde- main, songs, recitations, &c., were added phantas- magorial figures, a description of them being un- HOSPITALITY OF THE " INTHEPIDS. M 175 dcrtakcn by Mr. Kmbbe, whose quaint and facetious sayings elicited roars of laughter from the much delighted audience. It is useless to hide the fact that officers and men laughed, and enjoyed the fun, like so many children. A few of the songs were full of humour, the singers being dressed in what they conceived to be characteristic costumes. Retiring to the gun-room of the hospitable " Intrepids," we sat down, and did full justice to an excellent supper, whilst the seamen talked of the wonders of necromancy, over a pipe and glass. Saturday and Sunday^ 15th and 16th, the wind blew a whole gale, from a very unusual quarter, the eastward ; accompanied, as usual, by heavy snow-drift, but without the great fluctuations in force, invariably experienced with a northerly breeze; the drift in these two days had formed a wall of snow along the starboard side nine feet high, leaving a passage of about ten feet between it and the ship. A slight cessation took place on the 17th, the wind gradually veering to the northward ; towards night, fitful gusts of wind foretold another breeze ; nor were we disappointed, for on the follow- ing day we had a piping gale, with heavy drift. The 22nd proved remarkably fine, and our walk- ing on this occasion was more extended than usual. ii 1 I r.' 176 PURSUIT OF SCIENCE UNDER DIFFICULTIES. Mr. Roche (mate) was fortunate enough to kill one of three hares he found on Dealy Island, the first that had been observed since October; although numerous traces had been seen for some weeks. Lieut. Hamilton captured a lemming, but the poor little animal died the following day. Sunday^ 23r6?, at 1 A. m., the quartermaster went outside on the floe, to register the thermometers, which were kept in a box secured to a table. In the act of reading ofl^, his attention was attracted Pursuit of Science under Difficulties. by a slight noise, and his surprise r.iay be imagined, when, on looking round, he observed a bear within % RENCONTRE WITH A BEAU. 177 five yards of him. His situation, to say the least of it, was not an enviable one, for one spring of the brute would have put an end to his registering thermometers for ever. Fortunately, however, the quartermaster (Silvey) had sufficient presence of mind to throw the strong light of the lantern full on the face of the animal ; it answered the purpose effectually, for Bruin (startled by such an unusual aurora) beat a hasty retreat ; the alarm was imme- diately given, and two officers went in pursuit, and traced him to the mass of hummocks astern, where they lost the trail. During the past month, the mean of the tempe- rature was 36*1 —by Adieand 40*7— by Pastorelli, the lowest yet registered within the limits of the Arctic Circle; Parry in Winter Harbour, in 1818-19, registered 32*2 minus, Griffith's Island, 1851-52, being 33° minus. The weather during the month, and indeed I may almost say the winter, has been far more unpleasant and severe than that experienced at Griffith's Island in 1850-51, and what maybe regarded in the light of phenomena, are the unac- countable falls of snow, during periods of extreme cold. Adie's thermometer, supplied from Kew Obser- vatory, may be considered the standard for and N i. 1 n I ! 178 A FEW WORDS ABOUT THERMOMETERS. below the freezing point of mercury, but the colourless fluid, and faint graduations are highly objectionable, particularly in such a climate as is experienced within the Arctic Circle ; the difficulty of reading ofi^ is much increased, and in many cases the registration was worse than useless; for by the time the observer had succeeded in detecting the whereabouts of the fluid, and the corresponding degree, the radiation of the heat from the lamp, which was necessarily held close, had affected the temperature of the immediate atmosphere, which has been proved to be as much as 2° in half a minute. I should therefore suggest that thermometers containing coloured (red) fluid, with the gradua- tions marked in a legible manner, should be sup- plied to vessels wintering in these regions. Tuesday^ February \st The curtain of the " Theatre Royal " was raised for the second and last time for the season. The plays selected for the occasion were the well-known farce of " Raising the Wind ; " the characters sustained by the ship's com- pany ; and the extravaganza of " King Glumpus," written by Mr. Barrow, of the Admiralty ; the cha- racters in this piece were undertaken by the officers. The costumes of Miss Durable and Peggy in THEATRICAL PERFORMANCES. 179 » " Raising the Wind " were truly admirable ; all the articles were manufactured on board, from the stays of No. 8 canvas, and laced with marline, to the black silk mantle and hood, with its crimson silk lining vying with the rouge on their cheeks. Miss Durable was perfection's self, barring the ankles — which were certainly not transparent. Peggy was also capital, as far as costume and ap- pearance went, and could she only have remained still, would perhaps have been the better of the two ; but, alas ! there was a certain swagger and rolling in her gait, which would have brought down roars of applause on a stage sailor of the /. P. Cooke school, but certainly did not add to the ladylike appearance of a lovely, retiring, and ac- complished girl yet in her teens, particularly when backed by a hitching up of the frock with both hands, as sailors occasionally do to the waistband of their trousers. Jeremy Diddler's dress, of course, was noi complete, being out at the knees and elbows ; but this difficult part was well sustained throughout. Between the performances, songs, recitations^ and a hornpipe tended to relieve the tedium of waiting until the necessary alterations and preparations had been made for the next piece, which went off N 2 li :, -m-. 180 THEATRICAL PERFORMANCES. with great applause ; roars of laughter, with the usual accompaniment of "Bravo!" "Capital!" was more than a sufficient reward for any little trouble we had been at in getting it up ; and I am sure Mr. Barrow would have felt delighted, to have witnessed the pleasure derived from his little interlude, by the whole of the ship's company of the " Resolute," for whose amusement it was intended. The dresses, of course, were extravagant to a degree, and as the male portion of the characters wore masks, with noses such as are never seen off a stage, the absurd effect to be desired was produced. Gallantry forbids my not paying a just tribute of admiration to the ladies who took a part in " King Glumpus " — they were capitally " got up," with a profusion of bustle. I doubt if any ob- server, however well read, would have been able to fix on the exact reign in which the various costumes were, at one and the same time, the pre- vailing fashion. My faithless spouse wore a Bloomer costume, such as is, or at least was, worn by decoy bar girls in London, as an induce- ment to veri/ young men to expend a certain amount of capital in a glass of beer. ON BOARD THE " RESOLUTE." 181 The queen, with dress and coronet complete, looked a perfect Boadicea; whilst her attendant maids of honour bore a strong resemblance to superannuated apple-women, in full dress. The proceedings terminated by performers and audience singing the National Anthem ; the whole went off with great success, although, notwithstand- ing the admirable arrangement in the shape of stoves, the cold at times was intense, the thermo- meter being at minus 5° within three feet of a stove. The ladies, of course', felt it most, and may be said to have been compelled to drink hot whisky punch when off the stage ; they were also obliged to have recourse to a posture decidedly unlady-like — sitting with their legs extended over the stove. A capital supper in the gun-room was done ample justice to by all the officers. A feast was also provided for the seamen, consisting of Findon haddock, bread, &c. ; the whole washed down with a glass of good old Jamaica. Saturday i 5th. — For the last few days the sun's near approach to the horizon had been proclaimed by an extended arch of light, with a few small crimson clouds floating in a golden sea Oh ! with what pleasure did we all look forward to his actual presence. N 3 182 EXPECTED APPEABANCE OF THE SUN. Refraction, — corrections of all descriptions, — ^not forgetting the dip from the top of Dealy Island, 160 feet high, — were worked out minutely, and the result of our calculations led us to expect he might possibly be seen for the space of a few minutes at noon on the 4th. The weather on that day, however, was unfavour- able ; a cold sharp wind, with mist, prevailed. But the 5th was a glorious day, clear, cloudless, and cold. During the forenoon officers and men might have been observed stopping occasionally raring their monotonous walk on the floe, and contem- plating '.yith feelings of quiet rapture the southern horizon, as the arch gradually increased in extent and brilliancy. Officers, — aye, and sedate ones too, on most occa- sions, might have been observed jumping as high as the weight of their clothes permitted, fondly hoping to be the first to welcome the glorious source of light and warmth, to these inhospitable shores. At length, at 11*30 am., the flag on Dealy Island was hoisted, announcing to the little world below the fact of the sun being visible from that elevation. The ensigns on board both vessels were THE prodigal's RETUBN. 183 immediately hoisted, in honour of the prodigal's return *, after an absence of ninety-three days. A few minutes only elapsed, when t\ 3 rays of his upper enlightened limb dazzled the eyes of those who were anxiously gazing from the floe. Every eye-lid drooped before the novel glare, but the features of all bore an expression indicative of happiness. The very dogs appeared more ani- mated, and seemed to have an innate sense that better days were coming. Giving an additional cock to their tails and ears, they gambolled with each other, and looked, in truth, a set of merry dogs. At noon I succeeded in obtaining the meridian altitude of the o (from the deck), 0° 23' 30'', for the purpose of ascertaining the amount of refraction. The following work shows the results obtained. Barometer 30*70, Thermometer (air) 35° minus. By Computation. 0's declination south. o f ft By Observation. /f Obs. © by Sext. 2113-0 23 30 Dip -4 11 15 50 53-5 5 36-5 - 4610 7-3 13830 32270 336-530 19 19 Sem'. -16 15 15 45 170 74 56 25 Obs. alt. of O - 3 4 By comp. below hor. 41 42 41 42 Refraction 44 46 ■©• below horizon. 5 36*5 * The gallant crews of De Haven's ships, when wintering in the pack, hailed his return with three cheers, — all hands on the floe. N 4 '4 184 HEARTFELT GRATITUDE. In addition to the feelings of intense satisfaction which the return of the sun occasioned, it is to be hoped there were in the breast of every individual composing the expedition, feelings of heartfelt gratitude to the Giver of all goodness, for the pre- servation of their lives and health throughout the trying period of an arctic winter, whose duration is sufficiently unpleasant and monotonous ; but all other evils sink into utter insignificance, when com- pared with the disheartening nature of utter dark- ness, for the space of ninety- three days. Although the number of our little band had been decreased by the two men who lay side by side on Dealy Island, no important cases of sickness have occurred. Happily all enjoy comparatively good health and spirits, which the increase of light and exercise improve daily ; and when the time arrives requiring the exertion necessary to ensure success, in the fully carrying out the intended distances on foot, it is to be hoped their health and strength will keep pace with the spirit of determination, pervading each and all, to bear with a resolute fortitude the fatigues and privations they must necessarily encounter. As the severity of the weather increased during the winter, each man stretched his ingenuity to the \ FACE PROTECTORS. 185 utmost to invent a " face protector ; " for the face is peculiarly sensitive, particularly the nose, cheek- bones, and chin, whilst the under eye-lid comes in occasionally for a frost-bite. This is, of course, to be attributed in a great measure to the face being more exposed than any other part of the body ; it therefore becomes ne- cessary to protect it whilst walking, — the object to be attained being the prevention of frost-bites, as also to allow the vapour from the mouth and nostrils to escape without becoming condensed on the cover. As always happens where many turn their at- tention to the same subject, the number produced was great, and the shapes varied according to the ideas of the designer, who, by-the-bye, invariably proclaimed the superiority of his own invention, by wearing it even at the expense of being fre- quently frost-bitten. The old cover, used by the Expedition of 1850-51, was simply a piece of cloth lined with lamb- skin, or flannel, cut so as to cover the whole of the cheeks, leaving an aperture for the nose, which in its turn was coveared with an angular piece of the same materials. This was found to answer very well, and was the prevailing fashion for some time ; 4\ 186 WINTER COSTUMES. but as it was necessary to secure it round the head previous to putting on the cap and muf&er, it was not convenient for removal, to ascertain whether or not the cheeks were bitten. The favourite cover of this cruise is even more simple, being composed of a kind of veil, made of seal-skin or cloth, lined with flannel as before ; it is attached to the cap outside, by buttons, and herein its utility consists, as the breath escapes without becoming solid. 'Winter Costumes. ¥ Another great inconvenience escperienced whilst walking during intensely cold weather, is the con- gelation of the eye lids, by the action of the cold on NECESSITY FOR A COMPANION. 187 the exhalation of moisture from the eyes. It is then necessary to withdraw the warm hands from the recesses of the mittens and apply them to the eyes, in order to melt the ice, and restore the sight. It is absolutely necessary, during the prevalence of very cold weather, that each person should have a companion when walking any distance from the ship, — and a standing order to that effect should be issued, in order to avoid the neglect of frost-bites, and the more serious results arising from falls, cracks in the ice, &c., whereby a broken leg, or a sprained ankle, by preventing an imme- diate return to the ship, might possibly cost a man his life. It is therefore prudent always to have a com- panion — you are then enabled to inspect each other's faces occasionally, and perform the friendly office of removing frost-bite, which, if neglected, leaves an unpleasant scar, and renders the spot peculiarly sensitive for the future. Monday, 7th. — Commenced hoisting in, and stowing gravel, as ballast, in the place of the three (2- ton) tanks that were landed ; the coals from be- low them were removed into the bunkers, and the space filled up with ballast, level with the tank tops. 188 DIUKCTION OF INTKNDED CANAL. Tom cwti. I Port Side. — In space occupied by 2 (2-ton) tanks, 1 r n was stowed - - - - - J Starboard Side. — In space occupied by 1 (2-ton) tank, was stowed - - - - } 3 16 This day gravel was distributed along the line of the intended canal, which will be the same as the one we cut in September last, in consequence of the ice being thinner there than elsewhere. Tuesday., ^th At 1 a.m. a bright arch of aurora was observed, extending from W.N.W.toS.S.E. ; the altitude of the centre of the arch was about 8° minus, the whole appeared to have an undulating move- ment ; from the centre coruscations of considerable brightness shot up in the direction of the zenith. Thursday^ 10th, was one of the finest days we had experienced for some time ; clear weather and a perfectly cloudless sky prevailed throughout. Distant objects were very distinct, but much re- fracted ; Cape Bounty, for instance, appeared twice its usual height, whilst the range of hummocks to the southward took almost any shape the mind could imagine. The sky to the southward, glowed with a combination of gold and crimson tints, merging almost imperceptibly into purple and blue towards the zenith. The whole arch of glorious light moved with the sun to the westward, and VlSITKl) BY A NATIVE — BEAU. 180 there, as the setting sun sank beneutli the horizon, dissolved in a mass of subdued light, .is evening closed around us. Friday^ l\th. — Wind during the forenoon from northward, and gradually increasing. At noon the drift began to rise, and caused objects on the floe to be much distorted. On such occasions, the un- practised eye is apt to imagine stationary objects to be on the move. This is the most plausible reason why a bear, that was leisurely inspecting the contents of the dust heap, about fifty yards astern of the ship, had not been observed before. Such however was the case. 190 A GALE. — ABSENCE OF TWO OFFICERS. Fortunately for master Bruin, he was first de- scried from the " Intrepid," whose officers had a long shot, which took effect, but was not of suffi- cient importance to prevent his beating a hasty retreat in a southerly direction. Pursuers were not wanting, and he was closely followed by an armed party, many of whom, by-the-bye, shortly returned, not caring about sport with a temperature of 40° minus. The gale and drift increasing. Captain Kellett ordered guns, blue-lights, rockets, maroons, and smoke-balls to be fired as a signal of position to the absentees.* At four, the wind had yet increased, and raised the drift as high as the mast-head, effectually hiding all objects beyond a hundred yards. The temperature also was unusually low (with so much wind), being minus 35°. All hands were now anxiously awaiting their appearance, until at length parties, each commanded by an officer, were despatched in various directions, in hopes of meeting them ; lights were also hoisted to the mast-heads, and intense anxiety prevailed. About 5 P.M. I took a party of men astern of the "Resolute" intending to burn a smoke-ball, and fire a rocket; having reached a spot from whence we could barely descry the ship, two dark objects were * Commander M'Ciintock and Lieut. Mecham. STRANGE EFFECTS OF COLD. 191 indistinctly observed to the southward ; a glance having assured me they were moving, we ran to- wards them, and were rejoiced to find those we were seeking. It may easily be imagined that every soul was much relieved by the news of their safe return. Both officers were somewhat haggard, and it was remarked that in speech and appearance, they resembled men who had drank deeply. (Captain Parry in his work (first voyage) mentions some of his men being similarly affected, by combined cold and fatigue.) A good dinner however soon restored them to their usual animation. Saturday y 12th At 9 p.m. a complete arch of aurora was observed extending from N.N.W. to S.S.E. passing directly through the zenith. The gale from the northward, which had commenced on Friday, continued to blow with unabated violence until noon on Thursday the 17th ; during the whole of this time we were entirely confined to the ship, and the discomfort arising therefrom for such a length of time was considerable ; for both officers and men were of necessity more below decks than usual. This fact did not tend to purify the atmo- sphere. The crisis of the gale occurred between midnight on Monday and 4 a.m. on Tuesday, when the wind V: .( 192 FURIOUS GALE. blew a complete hurricane ; the ship literally trem- bled; the masts shook like poplar- trees ; whilst the awnings, ropes, &c., kept up a continued noise; this, added to the washing of the water against the ship's side, utterly prevented our enjoying our usual amount of eight hours' sleep, which, by-the- bye, appeared to be a disease peculiar to this climate; for in all my life I never saw a set of fellows who took so much horizontal recreation as the arctic heroes. During the gale the communication between ourselves and the *' Intrepid " may almost be said to have been cut off; although, as I have elsewhere remarked, only one hundred yards distant. She was frequently completely hidden by the drift, which rolled past like a dense volume of steam, mast-head high. Some time ago, in a gale much more moderate than this, one of the " Intrepid's " men, in coming across to the " Resolute," made so much leeway as nearly to lose himself astern of the ship ; as it was, he had been nearly an hour on the floe, and was badly frost-bitten in the face and both hands ; his state was such as to render it necessary to retain him on board our ship for the night. The gale having abated on the 18th, we got rid KESTOW AFTER-HOLD WITH GRAVEL. 193 of the casks containing the dep6t, landing them beside the tanks on the S.E. point of Dealy Island. Monday y 21sU — Commenced clearing after-hold, in order to restow it with gravel, in the room of the coals and fire-wood; the gravel is intended for ballast, and was brought off principally by the dogs. In fine weather they have been known to bring off 1 40 lbs. each. Account of Gravel stowed in After-Hold. No. of Bags. Orou Weight Tare of Bags. Average l>er Bag. ' Nett Weight Contents per Bag. 104 lbs. 33,560 lbs. 1294 lbs. tons. cwt. qrs. lbs 14 8 10 lbs. 310^ The various arrangements for travelling may now be said to be completed in every respect ; dep6ts packed, secured, and labelled ; tents, clothes, fuel, and indeed every article, however small, has been carefully weighed ; but the average weight per man is considerably more than that used in the expedi- tion of 1850-51. This is principally accounted for by an increase in the weight of sledges, cooking utensils, sleeping robes, and a few minor, but nevertheless important articles, which look won- derfully small singly, but tend to swell the gross ly4 PROVISIONS FOR TRAVELLING PARTIES. I I! weight of the whole, in a manner surprising even to those experienced in arctic travelling. Daily Scale of Victualling whilst Travelling. Provisions. Quantities. Remarks, &c. Biscuit Pemican - Bacon Moore's Chocolate Sugar for ditto - Tea - Sugar for ditto - Potatoe Tobacco Concentratod Rum Curry and Onion Powder, with a Patent Soup. 1 lbs. 1 n 1 ■ »i , ^ OZ. ; ■ " * 1) ; ■ »» 2 »> * »» § gill. or or Pemican | lb. ' f Bacon I „ Ship's Chocolate 1 oz. Sugar for ditto 1 „ daily for about f the No. of days travelled, or biscuit dust 1 oz. for J the No. of days, over proof 40°. proportion of Salt, Pepper, and As pemican (being a manufactured article for consumption) may not generally be known, I have thought it advisable, for the information of those who peruse these remarks, to extract an account of the mode of preparation from Sir John Richard- son's " Arctic Searching Expedition of 1847-48." The following description is copied verbatim from the work alluded to : — " The round or buttock of beef of the best quality having been cut into thin streaks, — from which the fat and membranous parts were pared away, — was dried in a malt-kiln, over an oak fire, until its moisture was entirely dissipated, and the fibre of the meat became friable; it was then !l MODE OF PREPARING PEMICAN. 195 ground in a malt-mill, when it resembled finely grated meat. Being next mixed with nearly an equal weight of beef-suet or lard, the preparation of plain pemican was complete ; but to render it more agreeable, a proportion of the best Zante currants was added to part of it, and part of it was sweetened with sugar. Both these kinds were much approved of in the sequel by the consumers, but more especially that to which the sugar had been added. After the ingredients were well incor- porated by stirring, they were transferred to tin canisters, capable of containing 85 lbs. each * ; and having been firmly rammed down, and allowed to contract further by cooling, the air was completely expelled and excluded by filling the canister to the brim with melted lard, through a small hole in the end, which was then covered with a piece of tin and soldered up ; finally, the canister was painted and lettered according to its contents." Sir John also adds that more than three-fourths of the original weight of meat is lost during the process of drying ! The average cost of pemican prepared as the above, was Is. 7jc?. per lb. A list of articles required for the perfect equip- ment of a travelling party of eight men (seven men * Those supplied to this Expedition contained 40 lbs. each. o 2 1^ i » IS ill 196 REMARKABLE SNOW CLIFF. and one officer) for a long journey, say ninety days, will be found in the Appendix. ^D^at^. Remarkable Snow Cliff, Bridport Inlet, Melville Island. i 197 CHAP. IX. Supposed Proceedings of "Investigator." — Object of Lieut. Bedford Pirn's Search. — Departure of Banks' Land Party. — A few Words about the Dogs. — Mr. Roche leaves to rejoin Lieut. Pirn. — The new Sledge "Erin."— -Return of Mr. Roche. — Remarkable Phenomenon. — A Musk-Ox killed. — A few Words about Musk-Oxen. — Departure of Travelling Parties. — Lieut. Hamilton returns. — Arrival of Officers and Men of H.M.S. « Investigator." — Summary of "Inves- tigator's " Proceedings. — Pirn and Domville's Journey.— Lieut. Pirn discovers " Investigator." — Intended Operations of "Investigators" this Spring. — Mode of Travelling. — Privations experienced by " Investigators." — Unhealthy State of " Investigators." Monday the 9th of March, the weather being re- markably fine, with every appearance of its con- tinuing for some days, Captain Kellett decided on despatching Lieut. Bedford Pim, and the Banks' Land party the following day. The sledges were accordingly packed, and everything was arranged for leaving early on Tuesday morning. I have already stated that on the arrival of liieut. Mecham from Winter Harbour with O 3 198 SUPPOSED PROCEEDINGS OF "INVESTIGATOR." Captain M'Clure's despatch, it was deemed neces- sary to send a party, as early in the spring as the temperature admitted, to the Bay of Mercy ; for, after due consideration of the subject, we had come to the conclusion, that it was quite possible the "Investigator" might not have "broken out" during the autumn of last year, 1852 ; in that case the scarcity of provisions would render the ship's being abandoned early in the spring absolutely neces- sary. In the event of this occurring, we had reason to suppose, from various causes, that Captain M'Clure would make the best of his way to the southward, towards the coast of North America ; and as sub- sistence for such a large party would be doubtful in any one route, it was thought extremely pro- bable that he would divide the crew into two divisions ; the one making for the Mackenzie, in the hope of reaching the Fort on Peel River, from whence they might expect to gain Fort Good Hope in August, and thus have time to lay in a stock of provisions for the winter; whilst the other section might easily reach Fort Confidence on the Coppermine, near the Great Bear Lake, in time to communicate, if necessary, with Fort Good Hope, before the winter set in. m DEPARTURE OF BANKS* LAND PARTY. 199 Acting therefore on these supposed probabili- ties, the object of Lieut. Pim and party was to reach the Bay of Mercy as early as practicable ; and in the event of the " Investigators " being there, to inform Captain M'Clure of the position of the " Resolute " and " Intrepid " would be the end of his mission; for undoubtedly Captain M'Clure would unhesitatingly abandon the " Investigator," and with his crew make the best of his way to- wards the " Resolute." If however the " Investigator " was not there, a search was to be made for documents, which would be most likely to serve as a clue to the track she had taken. Lieut. Pim was to follow up this track, after despatching Dr. Domville back to the ship with all the information he could transmit. At the request of Lieut. Pim, Captain Kellett allowed him to have the services of Mr. Roche (mate) and ten men, with ten days* provisions, to assist the parties on their way to Cape Provi- dence. Tuesday, 10th. — At 8*30 a.m. the preparations were reported complete, and the sledges moved forward, with colours flying, taking with them the good wishes of all for their complete success. The travellers were accompanied by the officers o 4 200 SLEDGE PARTIES. and crews of the ship, the latter assisting at the drag-ropes. The men of the pioneer parties of the season, had been especially chosen for the service by Lieut. Pirn, under the direction of Captain Kellett. The party consisted of Lieut. Bedford Pim, Dr. Domville, nine men, five dogs (and a young puppy), and two sledges, — exclusive of the auxiliaries under the charge of Mr. Roche. The sledges, although assisted, as I have before stated, by a considerable number of men from the ship, appeared to drag heavily. When about three quarters of a mile from the ships, in crossing a range of miniature Alps, one of the sledges was drawn down the descending slope of the hum- mocks diagonally, instead of bows first ; the conse- quence was that the sledge, having a considerable inclination, threw all the weight of cargo on the lower runner, and wrenched the heads of the poppets or uprights from the bearer, which was sprung. Men were instantly despatched to the " Intrepid " for another sledge, and soon after, the parties were again in motion. At 2 '30 P.M. the men who left to assist in dragging returned on board, and brought intelli- gence that the sledge supplied by the " Intrepid" A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE D008. 201 had already shown such evident signs of weakness, as to render it unfit for the service, and it was under- stood that the dogs would return in the evening for another. We were therefore not surprised, when, about 5 P.M., Mr. Roche with one man and all the dogs returned on board, and it was arranged to forward a fresh sledge early the next morning. I have already stated somewhere, that a number of dogs were obtained at Lievely, for the use of the sledges. Our share amounted to six. One, how- ever, poor Tinker, was one of the deserters on the floe, and probably paid for his indiscretion by falling a prey to a bear. The remainder of our dogs were Lion (the leader of the team). Shakings and Oosky (native for Esquimaux). Sophy, after the belle of Lievely, and Jenny, — after I don't know whom. Late in the autumn, both bitches littered ; Sophy and Jenny had eight pups ; three of them were drowned on purpose, and a fourth shared the same fate accidentally, by walking into the fire-hole. I had however almost forgotten to mention poor Napoleon, or Naps as he was more generally called, an Irish retriever, belonging to Captain Kellett. He was a native of Clonmel, but followed 'i 1 202 A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE D008. liis master's fortunes to the arctic regions. Poor Naps and the Esquimaux dogs were the best of friends for some time, until at length he drew down on himself their enmity. Singly, Naps would not have minded this, but his pluck and fighting pro- pensities were not equal to the combined attack of three dogs, each heavier than himself in weight. But this is digressing from the main point, viz., that during the winter we had, besides Naps, no Jess than nine Esquimaux dogs. Until within a month of the departure of the sledges, the dogs were considered in admirable working order, when it was announced by the dog-driver that Sophy was again likely to have pups. The man's assertion proved correct, for within a week of her leaving she had six. Unfor- tunately this took place during the middle of a boisterous night, and the young hopefuls were all frozen stiff before they were discovered. Between extreme cold and intense grief, poor Sophy was reduced to a most deplorable state. She however slowly recovered, and was suffi- ciently well to leave with the other dogs on the 10th inst. The defunct puppies had been laid-out abaft on the ship's gunwale, and were there when the dogs returned with Mr. Roche for another sledge. MR. ROCHE LEAVES TO REJOIN LIEUT. PIM. 203 No sooner were the panting animals liberated from their harness than, rushing on deck, they each (except Jenny and Sophy) seized one of the deceased pups, and greedily devoured it. The day of the departure of the travelling parties, though intensely cold, wau fine and clear, with a considerable amount of mirage in the atmosphere, whereby well-known objects were so distorted as almost to create a doubt of their being the same. As night advanced, the wind which during the day had been light from the northward, began to in- crease with an ominous soughing noise, and before morning it blew a gale with considerable drift. Mr. Koche was therefore obliged to remain on board, the weather being such as to prevent his attempting to rejoin Lieut. Pim. Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, Mr. Roche was necessitated to remain on board ; for although the lulls on Saturday and Sunday were frequent, they were but temporary, and not until Sunday at midnight was there any appearance of the weather improving. Monday, at 5*30 a.m., fine weather, with a light air from the eastward. Mr. Roche, with one man, five dogs, and four days' provisions for his party, left the ship, and, as far as we could fo'low 204 THE NEW SLEDGE "ERIN." ► him with our eyes from Dealy Island, appeared to be going over the floe at a good pace. Shortly after (at 7 a.m.) the tents of the travel- ling parties were distinctly visible, their supposed distance from this position being eight miles. An ice-quartermaster was left on the island to watch their movements. Mr. Roche reached the tents at 8*30 A.M., but the sledges were not on the move until 11*30, when they proceeded to the westward under sail. This fact proved that nothing serious had occurred to any of the party, as Captain Kellett had, in a note to Lieut. Pirn, requested that officer to return to the ship if any of his men required medical assistance. Thursday^ 17th. — The finishing stroke was put to a sledge built on board for Captain Kellett, and being St. Patrick's day the Captain, as a loyal Irish- man, determined on launching the sledge with all the honours. Ways were accordingly laid from the gunwale to the floe; the colours were hoisted on board, whilst the sledge itself was decorated with a boat's ensign, and a green flag with the captain's crest embii^idered thereon. The launch took place at 5 p.m., and H. M. sledge " Erin " glided down the inclined plane at a LAUNCH OF H.M. SLEDGE "ERIN." 205 I great rate, amidst the cnthusiaatic clieers of the as- sembled arctic public. The builder, Mr. Dean, had H.M. SKdge " Erin." the honour of being launched in her, and carried in his hand a bottle of wine, which he was to drink instead of breaking (as is usual on such occasions). This important part of the ceremony he carried out to the admiration of all who witnessed the feat. On this day Commander M'Clintock, Lieuts. Mecham and Vesey Hamilton had taken a walk towards the northern shore of the inlet, where they saw two musk-oxen, but the animals made off without allowing the chance of a shot. Friday^ ISth — The temperature this day rose to -|- 10°, being the first time since 24th of Nov. last that the thermometer has been above zero. Sunday, 20ih — At 9 a. m. a sledge party was observed to be approaching the ship from the I('/ 206 RETURN OF MR. ROCHE. westward ; it proved to be that of Mr. Roche, re- turning from assisting Lieut. Pirn. The colours were hoisted, and an officer despatched to meet them at 11 '30. The sledge arrived alongside, having left the Banks' Land parties in the neighbourhood of Point Hearne on Wednesday last. Serjeant Hobbs, R.M., from Lieut. Pim's sledge, returned in con- sequence of ill-health, occasioned by a severe cold ; his place was promptly filled by John McLean, A.B., who volunteered his services from Mr. Roche's sledge. , : . . I .;j The news from the absent parties was, on the whole, very gratifying. As we imagined, they were miserable enough during the time the weather compelled them to remain in the tents, but happily nothing more serious than a few unimportant frost* bites occurred. The dragging qualities of the dogs exceeded our most sanguine *. stations; they invariably kept ahead of the men sleuges, sometimes at an incon- venient distance, though, from their admirable in- stinct in choosing the best route, their sledge tracks proved of infinite service to those following. This afternoon, whilst taking a stroll on shore, to increase my appetite for dinner, I observed from the top of Dealy Island a very remarkable pris- REMARKABLE PHENOMENON. 207 S*8 matic tint on the horizon to the S.E., which at this time (between 1 and 2 p.m.) was to the left of the o , when looking towards it. Neither my companion nor myself could form a conjecture as to the cause of this novel phenomenon, which remained in the same position for upwards of an hour. It bore a strong resemblance to what is known to sailors as a sun-dog, and is supposed to denote the advent of bad weather. This day is remarkable as the first this year on which snow was observed to dissolve by the heat of the sun, the thermometer being registered as — 1° (33° below freezing point). On returning on board from my walk, I observed several tiny rivulets of water streaming down the side of the ship, a sight which caused no small degree of grati- fication in the minds of all on board, and it became the subject of general conversation during dinner. Monday J ilst — A system of training commenced, in order to accustom the men to dragging and walking, preparatory to travelling. Lieut. Vesey Hamilton returned in the course of the afternoon, from a long walk on the northern shore of the inlet. He brought the pleasing intelligence of having killed one, out of a herd of four musk-oxen.* ; * These animals do not migrate to the southward, as was previ- ously supposed, but remain on the island throughout the winter, h ^- i i { ,1 m '■X 208 A SIUSE-OX KILLED. Of course he v/as unable to bring any of the animal on board, but arrangements were made to start a large party early the following morning. Tuesday, 22nd. — Two officers, fourteen men and a sledge left at 7*30 a.m. to bring on board the carcass of the musk-ox shot yesterday ; they did not return till 6-15 p.m. It appeared they not only found the animal alive, but were actually obliged to fire no less than twelve bullets before life became extinct. The musk-ox is difficult to kill, in consequence of its coat of thick long hair, as well as a mass of fine wool, interwoven between the hair near the skin. The musk-ox is seldom solitary, buc generally grazes in herds, of from five to twenty in number. A bull is always on the qui-vive, and rarely fails in giving due notice of approaching danger. On such occasions the bulls form in line in front, facing the enemy, keeping the cows and calves in the rear. A single shot seldom proves fatal, in consequence of the perseverance of the animal (even when wounded) to face its persecutor, thus preventing the hunter selecting a fatal spot, which is immediately behind the fore-shoulder — the horny excrescence on their heads is almost imper- DEPARTURE OF TRAVELLING PARTIES. 209 vious to a ball, and most of them died, more from exhaustion, occasioned by loss of blood ; than by effective shots. They seldom attack when in herds, but content themselves with shielding the weaker animals with their bodies. When alone, however, great precaution is necessary, for a wound has been known to irritate the musk-ox to such a degree, as to cause him to make a furious charge on the sportsman ; this is the more dangerous, as, from the peculiar character of the country, shelter from the infuriated animal can seldom be obtained. Account of Gravel, stowed as Ballast from Dealy Island. Date. Where Stowed. Quantity. Remarks &c. Feb. '53. Mar. 8, & 9. „ 22, &23, 26 Main- hold Fore-hold After-hold Spirit-room Total tons. cwts. qrs. 8 16 10 O"! U 8 0- 7 16 oJ 41 S- 'V'^i. in place of 3 V- — d tanks. Stowed between casks, instead of the fire-wood. Tuesday^ 2dth. — This morning Lieut. Hamil- ton left with a cart laden with travelling pro- visions, to place them in an advanced position, for the Hecla and Griper Bay parties. On his return in the evening, after a long day's march, one of his men (Jeffries) was so much J? 210 DEPARTURE OF TRAVELLING PARTIES. ! I Uv !• 1/ I *•/ ^i fatigued as to render the assistance of a sledge necessary to bring him in. This day we commenced taking the snow off the upper deck. And now for a time I must leave all other subjects, for the all important one of travelling, preparations for which were now fully completed. Monday, the 4th of April, was the day fixed for the departure of the sledges, and all was hurry, bustle, and confusion to the last. At length the morning of Monday arrived, and at 5 A.M. a flag was hoisted on the summit of Dealy Island, and the ensigns displayed on board the ships. All the travelling officers sat down to a substantial breakfast, on board the " Resolute," in good health and high spirits. At seven the tra- velling parties were called away, and the effect of such a body of them, in their quaint dresses, distributed amongst the various sledges, was alike novel and impressive. The sledges, with banners displayed, were drawn up in two divisions, with their heads, or bows, pointing in the direction of their intended destina- tion. A few minutes elapsed, whilst friends grasped each other's hands, and whispered their last messages, and then all were at their posts. The wind from E.N.E. was favourable for the western division under Lieut. Mecham, who with f sledge off the jave all veiling, ipleted. 5ed for hurry, id, and nmit of L board own to solute," the tra- ! effect dresses, as alike drawn ' bows, lestina- friends leir last for the 10 with I I If y \\ i F* • ••? DEPARTURE OF TRAVELLING PARTIES. 211 Ilis auxiliary sledge (in charge of Mr. Nares), made sail at 7*15, amidst the hearty cheers of those who witnessed their departure. Some minutes only elapsed, ere the northern division led by Captain Kellett left the ships, and although the cheers of the few remaining were not remarkable for their noise, each and all gave them a fervent " God speed and good success " in their long and perilous journeys. The following is the distribution of the various parties. . f.-^5^ 1.0 1.1 ■" 140 U 2.5 2.2 2.0 IL25 III 1.4 u& I, 1.6 Hiotographic Scieices Carporation 4^ ^ '^ ^s <^ ^. V <«^ 23 WIST WAIN STRHT WIISnR,N.Y. 14SM (716)I73-4S03 4^ s\ [.* >■ 212 • r CAPTAIN KELLETT RETURNS. For several days after the departure of the travellers, the wind blew a gale from the north- ward, — with heavy snow-drift; — against which, we on board imagined, it would be impossible for them to moke any progress, with heavily laden sledges. Monday^ llth. — At 5 p.m. Captain Kellett re- turned with his auxiliary party, having parted company from the main body of travellers, at a ravine about midway between the two beaches. The Captain had, until this, been ignorant of the description of labour and exertion required for arctic travelling, which he candidly confessed sur- passed everything in the form of hard work he had ever seen, though his experience in the navy embraces a period of upwards of twenty-five years, during which time he has seen much arduous service in every clime. Now the parties were gone, the few remaining on board were busily employed in clearing tanks of provisions ; the lower deck was also cleaned, and other useful services, which it was in the power of the men to accomplish, were attended to. Friday y \hth. — Mr. Richards (clerk in charge) left the ship with a party of seven men, to deposit a cask of provisions in the vicinity of the lake, at the head of Bridport Inlet, for any returning LIEUT. HAMILTON RETURNS. 213 parties, who might, from accident, have run short. Mr. Richards returned the following day. Sunday^ 11th, — At 5 p.m. a sledge was observed crossing the peninsula ; it proved to be that in charge of Lieut. Vesey Hamilton, who had placed provisions on the beach of Hecla and Griper Bay, and was now returning, expecting to be ordered to the rendezvous arranged between Sir Edward Belcher and Captain Kellett in lat. ir N. and long. 105' W. Tuesday^ l^th. — Day remarkably fine. Refrac- tion very great. At 10 a.m. several dark spots, unlike the shade thrown by hummocks, were observed to the westward about Cape Bounty. By noon the " dark objects " proved to be a body of men advancing towards the ship, and great anxiety prevailed until we learnt the news from Banks' Land. About 5 P.M. a party of men were despatched to assist in bringing in the sledges, and most of the ofiicers walked out to meet Domville, who was re- cognised through a telescope, somewhat in advance of the main body. As we grasped him by the hand (which, as well as his face, was as black as the ace of spades), his words, " The * Investigator ' is found, and M'Clure is close behind" — over- V 3 ! /.; 214 ARRIVAL OF "INVESTIGATORS." powered us with surprise, and the poor fellow was overwhelmed with a thousand questions, ere time was allowed to answer one. Hurrying on, with some of my brother officers, I had the pleasure of adding my welcome and congratulations to Captain M'Clure and Mr. Court (second master) ; the latter had been an old school- fellow, and afterwards a messmate of mine in H. M. brig " Ranger." This was our first meeting after a lapse of eleven years. Poor fellows! a few words sufficed to inform us, of the miserable state from which we had rescued them, and their hearts over- flowed with gratitude towards those, who (by the blessing of the Almighty) had been chosen as the instruments of His never failing mercy. Our feelings on this occasion, were those of heart- felt thankfulness that our labour had not been in vain, and each member of our little community must have felt his heart glow with honest pride, to reflect that he formed one of the little band whose undertakings in the cause of humanity had been crowned with such signal success. About 6 p.m. we had the before-mentioned officers and seven men on board. Although eager to learn all the news, close questioning was very properly postponed, until their appetites had been quite satisfied. SUMMARY OF " INVESTIGATOR'S " PROCEEDINGS. 215 The following is a brief summary of the pro- ceedings of the " Investigator," from the date of Captain M'Clure's despatch, found in Winter Harbour by liieut. Mecham : — On Captain M'Clure's return from Winter Har- bour to the Bay of Mercy, the ship was prepared for sea : all on board looking forward not only to being liberated from their present irksome position, but to reach England, vid Barrow's Straits. Such, however, was not to be the case; month after month passed away, without any appearance of the ice breaking up, and even as autumn approached, the prospect from the highest hills held out no hope of deliverance ; for the only water they observed, at this advanced stage of the season, was in detached pools of small extent, whilst the main body ap- peared firm and impenetrable. The proximity of the land, assisted by the tides, had formed a lane of water about one hundred yards wide, along the shore, close to the ship ; this was all the water they had near them, and they ceased to hope of escaping this season, when in the middle of August the water again became solidified. It now became apparent to every one on board that another winter (the third) was inevitable, and this idea was rendered the more unpleasant, by the V 4 216 SUMMARY OF " INVESTIGATOR'S " PROCEEDINGS. i; fact that a reduced allowance of provisions would be necessary : they had been on two-thirds of an allowance (six men on four men's provisions) since October, 1851 ; and many who had been nursed in comfort and even affluence now, for the first time, felt the pangs of that dire disease — hunger. On the 8th September, Captain M'Clure informed the crew that unless the ship was released by the 20th inst., it was not his intention of leaving the bay after that date. On the 20th the young ice near the vessel was nearly one foot in thickness, and the Captain having assembled the officers and crew, informed them that early in the ensuing spring, the majority of the officers and men (di- vided into two parties) should leave the ship, and make the best of their way to England. One party, vid Prince of Wales Strait, to the Mackenzie River ; whilst the other was to proceed to Cape Spencer, and either remain till the breaking up of the ice, or push forward to Port Leopold, and taking the launch left there by Sir James Ross in 1848-9, coast along the west shore of Baffin's Bay, in hope of meeting the whalers. Captain M*Clure, with a few officers and about twenty men, intended remaining by the ship in ex- pectation of being able to extricate her j and in the PIM AND DOMVILLE*S JOURNEY. 217 event of not doing so, he intended abandoning her early in the spring of 1854, and to make for Port Leopold, to which point (by his travelling parties) he had requested succour to be sent from England. It is not my intention to enter into a description of all their sufferings; suffice it to say that, with one or two exceptions, officers and men were alike suffering from the effects of scurvy. Some idea may be formed of their state, from the fact of four out of the six men of Captain M*Clure's party, being obliged to go on the sick list a day or two after their arrival, and these were acknowledged to be men picked out for the service. One man was brought over on the sledge, his swollen legs utterly preventing his walking. Lieut. Pim* was twenty-eight days reaching the Bay of Mercy, a distance of 160 miles as the crow flies. When about twenty-five miles from Cape Dundas, on his outward journey, his sledge un- fortunately broke down. He now transferred his sledge, crew, &c., to Dr. Doraville, and proceeded on with the dogs and two men, leaving orders with Domville to proceed to Cape Dundas, and there await his return. * This is the earliest extended spring journey on record. 218 LIEUT. PIM DISCOVERS "INVESTIGATOR." As may be imagined, poor Domville was in a sad dilemma as to the *' ways and means " of trans- porting fifteen hundredweight, a distance of twenty- five miles on a broken sledge over rough ice. The situation was particularly trying to an inexpe- rienced traveller; but by great zeal and perseve- rance he succeeded in saving every article, although they were obliged to leave one half of the pro- visions &c., on the fioe, whilst they carried on the other half about five miles in advance, when they were compelled to return, in order to bring up the remainder. Too great credit cannot be awarded to Dr. Domville, for the effective manner in which he carried out this arduous and disagree- able duty. Lieut. Pirn, in the meantime, was crossing the Straits, and on the 6th April the " Investigator " was descried. Running on in advance of the sledge, Pim approached within a few hundred yards without being observed. It so happened that Captain M'Clure and Lieut. Haswell were walking to and fro on the ice alongside the ship, no doubt discussing the all-engrossing subject of aban- doning the vessel, which was to have taken place on the 16th inst. (nine days from that date). Seeing a man, dressed in an unusual garb, running EFFECT OF LIEUT. PIM*8 ARRIVAL. 219 with great haste towards them, they expressed surprise, but thought, as a matter of course, the man must be one belonging to the " Investigator," chased probably by a bear or pack of wolves. On a closer inspection they thought he must be an Esquimaux ; but although labouring under this impression, Captain M'Clure naturally called out (in English), "In the name of God, who are you ? " The effect of the answer, " I am Lieut. Pim of the " Resolute " (Captain Kellet), now at Melville Island," may,- or rather must be conceived ; for as I am aware I could not describe it, I do not intend attempting it. Whilst this little scene was being enacted, a man from the deck saw Lieut. Pim, and indistinctly caught his answer. Hushing below he roused all hands, by calling out, " Here's a stranger alongside from some ship." The effect was astounding; the sick vied with the healthy in activ' 'y to get on deck. All was haste and confusion ; ii: a moment the lower deck was cleared, the carpenters had dropped their tools (they were making the first coffin), and even the men on shore, digging a grave, seeing that something unusual had occurred, hurried off to share in the astonishment and delight of their excited shipmates. 220 MODE OF TRAVELLING. Who is there that cannot readily conceive their feelings of gratitude to the Giver of all goodness, for His merciful interposition in their behalf. Without a hope of being liberated or a thought that aid was near ; they contemplated their fear- ful march for life, with all the calmness of despair ; for many must have known their strength would not have sustained them, through such privations for any lengthened period. On Lieut. Pirn's arrival on board the " Inves- tigator," on 6th April, Captain M'Clure deter- mined on crossing the Strait, for the purpose of having a personal interview with Captain Kellett, and on the following day, the 7th, he left the Harbour of Mercy, having given directions that a party of twenty-eight officers and men should follow him on the 15th inst. He arrived on board on the 19th, having accomplished the whole dis- tance of 160 miles, in the short space of twelve (lays, a feat not surpassed by any arctic traveller under the same circumstances. He certainly pos- sessed what might prove an advantage on a short journey, by dividing his hours equally for rest and labour, i.e. he travelled six hours, then rested for six, and so on. Twelve hours' dragging with a heavy sledge is, however, too much, even under PRIVATIONS OF " INVESTIGATORS." 221 this system, to be continued for any length of time; for the toil and consequent fatigue would soon begin to tell, if wholesome meals, and a com- petent time for rest, be not allowed to re-invigorate a man after a day's hard toil. Although we cer- tainly fell into the shade, when comparing daily distances (for with us twelve miles is considered a good day's march), they, on the other hand, were as far behind us in time, and Captain M'Clure, as well as the rest of the officers, expressed great sur- prise on hearing, that some of our parties had left with the full intention of being absent upwards of ninety days! None of his parties had exceeded forty, and this (by them) was considered a feat of no small importance. Whilst on this subject, it is but fair to add, that the privations of the " Investigator's " parties far exceeded the " Resolute's." Their daily scale of provisions, whilst travelling, when compared with ours, appears absurd, and it is a matter of surprise that men could support themselves on such an allowance. It was as follows : — Pemican 14 oz. Eaten raw. Fuel not being sufficient to cook it. Biscuit 1 lb. Chocolate 1 oz. S'lgar Oatmeal 2 oz. 1 oz. 1 . > Fuel just sufficient to warm it. 1 oz. J 222 UNHEALTHY STATE OF "INVESTIGATORS." L' il i: t. The above was the daily allowance for each man ; their fuel for seven men consisted of three gills of concentrated rum. (For our scale vide page 194). From the small quantity of fuel, it is obvious that no attempt was made to warm anything but the chocolate; the remainder of the fuel was barely sufficient to dissolve snow, to enable the men to obtain a drink of cold water, after six hours' hard labour. The health of the officers and crew of the " Inves- tigator " had been truly wonderful up to the date of Lieut. Pim's arrival on board her. Not a single death had taken place until the night before his reaching the Bay of Mercy. This unfortunate man had been for some time in attendance on the sick, and although he, in common with all on board, had been ailing, his death was unexpected. Indeed it was supposed he had taken medicines which were injurious. Be this as it may, the poor fellow died suddenly, and his death proved the forerunner of two others within the week. There can be no doubt, that the effect of three deaths within so short a time, tended to increase the depression of spirits which all on board were labouring under ; for it must be remembered that, with one or two exceptions, they were all suffering DREADFUL EFFECTS OF SCURVY. 223 more or less from the effects of scurvy, a dis- ease of all others which terminates fatally when least expected. M'Donald (the man who was brought over on the sledge) was in a dreadful state ; his flesh would retain an impression, if touched with the finger, like dough or putty; his legs were swollen to twice their natural size ; whilst his teeth could be moved to and fro in the gums, by the slightest movement of the tongue. He, however, recovered his health. { t 224 CHAP. X. I am ordered to accompany Lieut. Hamilton. — Departure from the Ship. — Travelling Journal. — A Party leaves for Bccchey Island. — De Bray returns with the Corpse of one of his Crew. — Unpleasant Situation of De Bray. — Mr. Dean cap- tures a living Calf (Musk-Ox ). — Return of Mr. Nares and Party. — Unexpected Arrival of Commander Richards. — Route of Commander Richards. — Captain Kellett returns on Board. — Commander Richards departs for Northumber- land Sound. — Return of Dr. Domville from the Bay of Mercy. — "Investigator" is to be abandoned. — Travelling Journal. — Conclusion of Journal. I MUST now for a time leave this, to me, in- teresting subject, to advert once more to travelling. I have, a few pages back, observed that Captain Kellett had intended prosecuting a search along the coast of Sabine Land to the N.E., and that Lieut. Vesey Hamilton was to have the rendezvous party. The discovery of the " Investigator," however, caused the Captain to alter the intended arrange- ments, and as it was necessary he should remain on board, Hamilton had Captain Kellett's route, whilst he himself was reluctantly compelled to PEPARTURE FROM THE SHIP. 225 give up the rendezvous by Byam Martin Chan- nel. Hamilton being somewhat late in starting, was to have an additional party to ensure a quiet transit over the land. I was only too happy to accompany him ; for although there was but little honour to be gained in acting as a depot-sledge for forty or fifty miles, I felt that my health required exercise. I must confess it was not without some pain- ful feelings, that I witnessed the departure of men, younger in age and service than myself in com- mand of travelling parties, — not that I had any reason to complain, individually — but, as a member of a particular branch of the service, I regretted that the field of our exertions should be so limited. Wednesday, 27th. — At 2 p.m. Hamilton and my- self, with two sledges and fourteen men, left amidst the cheers of all remaining behind. Domville and Richards accompanied us to beyond the peninsula, and after bidding them adieu, I took to the track belt, and we progressed towards the head of the inlet. It is not my intention to give a detailed account of our proceedings to and from Hecla and Griper Bay ; I shall therefore content myself with a skele- Q ; ( > V ft. ;• fi ■ri I; r 226 TRAVELLING JOURNAL ton journal, in order to render the reading more intelligible. We reached the South shore of Polynia lake at 8 P.M. : the drag on the land from Cart proved hard work. Here we encamped, in accordance with an arrangement between Hamilton and myself to march on a modification of the principle adopted by Captain M'Clure, whose method was to march and rest, every alternate six hours, as I have said. But we thought twelve hours too much, par- ticularly for the cook of the day (whose duty com- pels him to remain out of his bag at least three hours more than the rest of the crew), and there- fore we decided as follows; viz. — To travel by night for the sake of avoiding the glare of the sun. To commence day's (or rather night's) march at 4 p.m. ; grog and bite of biscuit at 7*30; then continue dragging till 10. Pitch tent, and get tea ; rest until 2 a.m., when again on the move ; grog and biscuit at 4 -30 a.m. ; pitch tent, and prepare pemican at 6 a.m. ; remain in tent for ten hours, — and have chocofate previous to starting. Abstracted, this arrangement would be — march six hours, rest four; march four, rest ten ; total twenty-four. TO HECLA AND GRIPER BAY. 227 g more lake at proved Drdance •n and rinciple od was rs, as I h, par- ly com- t three [ there- roiding ^'s (or bite of ill 10. when ) A.M. ; 'eraain evious would r, rest Rough Notes of a Journey across the Land FROM BrIDPORT InLET TO HeCLA AND GrIFER Bay. Wednesday, 11th. — Left the ship with one sledge, Mr. Ibbets (engineer), and six men, in company with Lieut. Hamilton's party : the object of my leaving was to assist the latter officer across the land from Bridport Inlet to Point Reed, one of the horns of Hecla and Griper Bay. After exchanging cneers with Captain Kellett, Captain M'Clure, and the officers and crew of " Resolute " and " Intrepid," we proceeded towards the peninsula, against a fresh northerly breeze. On nearing the head of the inlet, three flocks of ptarmigan were seen. After a hard drag from the Cart across the land, we pitched tents at 7*30 P.M. on the S. shore of Polynia lake, about two miles long by one broad. Thursday, 2%th — At 2 a.m. struck tent, and proceeded across the lake : when about to start, a man was observed on its northern shore, Hamil- ton and I walked on in advance of the sledges, rightly supposing the man to be one of Mr. Roche's party : we soon afterwards observed the sledges Q 2 4 228 TRAVELLING JOURNAL I l! I I < ■ on the summit of an eminence overlooking the lake. On their joining company, we found that they had been to Cape Mudge, distant about thirty miles from Point Reed. They kindly spared us a fore-quarter of a musk-ox, which provided us with several savoury meals. On parting company we were obliged to " double bank " the sledge, up a sloping ascent, about 150 feet high : this process was rendered the more difficult, by the absence of snow in any great quantities ; the little patches of gravel, seemingly so unimportant, brought the sledge to a dead stop, and required standing pulls to get it across. Descending on the other side of the slope, we entered a ravine, W. by N. and E. by S. (true), and proceeding to the westward about one mile and a quarter, and then entered a branch ravine, N.W. and S.E. Our road lay up a steep ascent, for about a mile and a half, and at length, after a very labo- rious marcli, we pitched the tent at 8 a.m. opposite a cairn with bamboo, erected by Commander M'Clintock. It was our intention to have proceeded again at 4 P.M., when we breakfasted preparatory to start- ing, but the wind proved too boisterous and keen, to travel against it, with any advantage ; we there- I I TO HECLA AND GKIPER BAY. ing the nd that :t thirty 'ed us a us with ' double 5ut 150 B more '' great imingly id stop, •pe, we e), and and a V\^. and about y labo- pposite nander again » start- keen, there- to a i. •. •' fore again " bagged " ourselves, waiting for the wind to moderate. Friday, 2dth. — AVind strong, and very keen ; determined on remaining quiet in hopes of a change, for altliough on a level floe, we might have made a little progress, we could not hope to do so up hill, and over land. Cooking under Difficulties. At 5 P.M. two deer (a buck and doe) were seen not far from the tent. Hamilton and I went in chase, but the animals proved too wary to allow us any chance of success, and we were obliged to Q 3 I ic. 230 TRAVELLING JOURNAL console ourselves, as best we could, with the idea, that the meat could not be in a state of perfection at this season of the year. At 8 i'.M. the weather having somewhat im- proved, we struck tents and proceeded, steering as near a N.W. course (true) as the circuitous nature of the road would permit. Our route lay across a bleak undulating plain, without a single prominent landmark in view, and our only guide was the sun (when out), or an occasional reference to the compass; we were, however, necessitated to follow the snow patches, which prevented the course being very direct. About midnight we arrived at the south edge of the Crooked Ravine of our predecessors. Here the descent was very steep ; so much so indeed, as to oblige us to " wind " the sledges, and lower them down carefully, by means of the drag-ropes. This operation was at- tended with considerable laughter, as the sledge, gaining velocity as it descended, capsized several of the men head over heels in the deep snow, from which they had some little difficulty in extricating themselves. On reaching the bottom, we wound round the base of a bluff which divided the ravine into two forks, and after an hour's hard 'drag en- camped at 2 A.M., Friday 29th. TO HECLA AND GRIPER BAY. 231 In this ravine we found several pieces of coal, the whole of which amounted to about 40 lbs. Undoubtedly more could have been obtained, had we sought for it ; but we could not well afford to increase our weights. During the last march we had all suffered considerably from excessive thirst, without having the means of quenching it, for the water in the bottles had become solid. I detected one of the sledge's crew eating snow ; but having had practical experience of the in- jurious effects of such a remedy, I insisted on his discontinuing it. When close to the ravine, we fortunately discovered some fresh-water ice, which tended, though not wholly so, to satisfy our wants* Great caution was, however, required in sucking the ice ; several of the men lost portions of the skin off their tongues and lips, by incautiously applying the frozen mass immediately to the mouth. The best remedy is to roll a piece of the ice smartly between the palms of the hands for a few seconds ; it can then be placed in the mouth with safety. At 7 A.M. fine clear weather ; struck tents and proceeded through the ravine in a N.W. direction ; after a short time we commenced a steep ascent, « 4 f 232 TRAVELLING JOURNAL leading to the plajns of high land ; after stopping a few minutes to recover our breath after a hard pull up hill, we struck across the plain in a N.N.W. (true) direction, towards Separation Ravine, on the confines of which we arrived at 11 a.m., where we pitched, and enjoyed a hearty meal ; and then turn- ing into our bags, enjoyed a refreshing slumber till the cook was called to prepare breakfast. At 8*30 struck tents and proceeded, intending to enter Separation Ravine ; but finding we were to the eastward of our supposed position, we made as much northing as the undulating nature of the ground permitted ; and at length we entered a long ravine leading to the N.N.E. : through this, although the snow was deep, we made good pro- gress until 2 A.M. on Sunday, May 1st, when we pitched the tents at the head of the Long Ravine, where it was crossed, nearly at right angles, by another equally deep, excepting in the direction we wished to go, where there was a broad hollow. Whilst tea was preparing, I walked ahead to have a view of the land beyond, and found (as was hoped) an easy road into a shallow ravine with a northerly trend. At 6*30 A.M. calm with a beautifully clear sky ; struck tents, and proceeded over the ridge, and with TO HECLA AND GRIPER BAY. 233 a good road advanced to the northward. About eight Hamilton and myself ascended the summit of the high land to the westward of the sledge route, from whence we observed the icy plain of Hecla and Griper Bay, with the land beyond, in the vicinity of Cape Mudge. The sight, as may be supposed, was very gratifying, for each and all were heartily tired of the land work, which is far more laborious than travelling on the floe. The ravine the sledge was in had every appearance of running down to the beach. "We returned and donning our track belts with a hearty good will, pushed forward with renewed vigour towards the coast line. Continuing our march until 1 1 a.m., we pitched the tents in the ravine, about two miles from the beach, having accomplished the distance of six miles in the last four hours. During the last march a dense bank was observed to be rising from the southward : it soon spread, and at length over- shadowed the sun, and at the time we pitched, snow had commenced falling. At 8 P.M. struck tents, and proceeded ; but after rounding the first point beyond our encampment, we observed that further progress was barred by a snow-wreath, extending across the ravine ; we were ¥ 234 TRAVELLING JOURNAL therefore obliged to "double bank" the sledges up the side of the ravine, and follow along the best snowy track towards the beach, which we reached in less than two hours, after having built a cairn, to identify the spot on our return: this was very necessary, as the beach was low and sloping, without a single prominent feature by which to recognise a locality. Indeed we had some difficulty in determining whether we were on the land or ice, much increased by the dense mist by which we were surrounded. A light air having sprung up from the S.E. the sheers were stepped and the sail hoisted, but without much benefit, in consequence of the heavy nature of the ground. In this manner we proceeded along the coast to the westward. Objects around very much distorted. Weather gloomy enough to cause a de- pression of spirits : we several times fancied we saw the Cart, but found the objects mistaken for it, to be small stones not more than a hundred paces distant. Early on Monday, 2nd, descried the Cart, loom- ing large through the dense mist. We now pitched the tents, and had grog, after which Hamilton pro- ceeded onwards with a light sledge, to take his dep6t, leaving the cooks behind to prepare a sa- TO HECI.A AND GRIPER BAY. 235 voury mess of musk-ox. I had now completed my outward journey, and therefore transferred the weights we had brought over to Hamilton's sledge, ("Hope") together with all the coal we had remain- ing, as well as various other articles we thought would be useful on a long journey. It was not till 4 a. m. that Hamilton returned with his dep6t, the Cart being more distant than we imagined. After a hearty dinner we ensconced ourselves within our blanket bags, and were soon enjoying a sound sleep. At 3 p. M. called the cooks, and after breakfast we made preparations to assist in dragging out Hamilton's sledge. It was pleasing to observe the readiness with which the men belonging to my sledge parted with their little travelling luxuries (in the shape of pipes and tobacco) to their ship- mates from whom they were about to part ; and this little incident is one of the thousand instances I have observed of the disinterestedness of British seamen. At length all was ready for starting, and we left the beach with all hands at the drag-ropes of the " Hope " (excepting the cook of my sledge, who was left to prepare dinner). The wind was light from the S.E., with fine clear weather, and with so many Hi m 236 TRAVKLLINO JOURNAL hands, wo made rapid progress along the floe in the direction of Cape Mudgc. At the end of three hours' march we stopped, and after luncheon parted from Hamilton and the crew of the " Hope " with three hearty cheers, and a sincere hope that each and all would return in as good health as when we left them. I have omitted to mention, that shortly after leaving the beach, five deer were observed pro- ceeding in a direction parallel to our own. Hamil- ton and I gave chase, but without success. I now, with the men of my sledge, proceeded to the tent, where we remained till 5 a. m. Tuesday y May Srd, — Having packed the sledge, we commenced our homeward march. We soon arrived at the cairn I had built ; and after having enlarged it, pushed on for encampment in Snow- drift Ravine, where we arrived and pitched our tent at 9 a.m. At 6 P.M., wind light from N.E., fine weather, struck tents, and went on keeping near the tracks of outward journey. At 9*30, lunched at junction of ravines, and then entered the Long Ravine of outward journey. At midnight we encamped, being, according to my dead reckoning (which, however, is likely to be TO IIECLA AND GRIPER BAY COAL FOUND. 237 in error), ubout fifteen miles, as the crow flies, from the beach of llecla and Griper Bay ; this distance being accomplished in sevt-n hours. Wind light from S. K. ; wevither gloofny and cold. Wednesday^ 4th., at 4 a.m., tine weather. Struck tents and advanced to the southward, by a cir- cuitous route, winding between the liills. At six the weather became overcast, with a moderate breeze from the S. E. ; this being ahead proved very unpleasant. At eight encamped on plain between Crooked and Separation Ravines, about two miles from the former. After breakfast at 6 p.m., packed sledge, and, keeping in old tracks, soon recognised the Crooked Ravine. About this time we saw a herd of seven deer, but they proved too wary to allow us any chance of success. Descending into the ravine by the way we came we again picked up coal (about sixty pounds) ; this, with forty pounds on our outward journey, would make a rough total of one hundredweight. We found it burned admirably, leaving no cinders, but a pearl-white ash. At 9 p. M. arrived at the foot of the hill down which we had been obliged to lower the sledges. I observed the men, whilst taking their grog, casting wistful glances up the sides of the ravine, in antici- 238 TRAVELLING JOURNAL. pation of the hard work that would be necessary to gain the summit, about 200 feet above us. The drag did indeed prove laborious, and we were soon obliged to lighten our load of clothing, whilst the perspiration streamed from every pore of our bodies. Occasionally we were obliged to rest for a few minutes in order to regain our breath. At length, after an hour and a quarter's hard work, we reached the top, and after a short stoppage, went on until 11 '30 p. m., when, observing the men to be tired, I pitched the tents half an hour before the usual time. Thursday J 5 /A, \0 a.m., called the cook, and turned out. Weather fine, saw seven deer on a rise in the land, a few hundred yards from the tent. Went in chase, and shot one in the fore leg, but after a run of three miles, I was obliged to give up the pursuit as hopeless, and returned to the tent quite tired. At 1*30 P.M. struck tents and proceeded down Cairn Ravine. At 3 p. m. stopped for half an hour to melt snow, after which again went on across the lake, where we saw several deer, and at 7*30 p. m. encamped close to the Cart. Friday J Qthy 9*30, wind fresh from N. ; packed up, fnd commenced march across Bridport Inlet, towards neck of peninsula. ARRIVAL ON BOARD " RESOLUTE." 239 When half way across, sheers were stepped, flag hoisted, and sail set ; dragging, was therefore no longer necessary : indeed the sledge on slippery ice went too fast for the men. Two of the crew there- fore, took it in turns to have a ride, whilst the rest attended to its guidance. At 12*30 arrived on board the "Resolute." On my return I found Lieut. Cresswcll, Mr. Wynniatt (a messmate of mine in the " Sama- rang"). Dr. Piers, — Assistant-surgeon, — and Mr. Miertching, — Interpreter, — with twenty-four men, had, during my absence, arrived (on the 2nd inst.), from the " Investigator," in the Hay of Mercy. Most of the men were on the sick list, labouring under attacks of scurvy, combined with great debility. I was also informed that two more men belonffinjr to the "Investigator" had died previous to the departure of these oiRcers from that ship. On the fifth. Captain M'Clure, Mr. Court and five men of the " Investigator," accompanied by Dr. Dom- ville and seven men of "Resolute," left for the Harbour of Mercy. The latter officer (Dr. Dom- ville) had been despatched by Captain Kellett, with orders to hold a survey, in conjunction with Dr. Armstrong ("Investigator") on the health of the officers and crew of that ship j and in the event of u ■ m I I ill I i ♦ % 240 A PARTY LEAVE FOR BEECHEY ISLAND the medical officers deeming them unfitted, by phy- sical infirmities, to withstand the rigour of another winter. Captain M'Clure was to abandon the ship ; but in the event of a portion of the crew being found capable of enduring another season, he was then authorised to call for volunteers, and if twenty men expressed their willingness to remain, the ship was not to be deserted, but every endeavour made to extricate her this season. If, on the contrary, twenty volunteers could not be found, the officers and crew were to abandon the ship, as soon as a few necessary arrangements were completed, viz. laying out anchors, landing provisions, &c. Saturday^ 7th At 4 p. m. Lieuts. Cresswell and Wynniatt, of the "Investigator," Mr. Roche (mate in command of party), Mr. Chandler, boatswain, and ten men, left the ship for Beechey Island, as an ad- vance party ; for the double purpose of relieving us from provisioning them, and taking despatches to Sir Edward Belcher. On the 9 th we commenced laying out, and gravelling space, intended for the canal astern of the ship. During the afternoon Mr. Richards, accom- panied by the carpenter with one man and the dogs, left for Winter Harbour. On his road he was to call at Fife Point, and remove Mecham's dep6t to a more eligible situation in the depth of Winter « « RETURN OF DE BRAY. 241 Harbour; after which he was to cut the ships' names on the sandstone boulder, beside the inscrip- tion left by Sir Edward Parry in 1820. Having ac- complished the objects of their journey, the party returned on the 1 5th. On the 16th, we found the floe alongside the ship to be six feet nine inches thick ; this may be taken as a fair estimate of the thickness of the ice around us, as I personally superintended its measurement. The following day, the 17th, two musk-cows and a calf were killed near Skene Bay. Wednesday y ISth. — A light air from the south- ward, with thick misty weather. Shortly after noon to our great surprise, we observed a sledge and party within a few hundred yards of the vessels. We all sallied out to meet them, and found it to be de Bray and party, after an absence of forty-four days from the ship. He had parted company from Com- mander M'Clintock on the second instant, in lat. 76° 10', N., long. 116° 45' W. (all well!) The latter oiTicer had decreased his original number of ten men, by two, whom he had sent back, as well as his broken sledge, by de Bray. On the 12th instant, when near Point Nias, a fatal accident occurred to one of M. de Bray's little band. It appears they were near the termination R I ■ I It 'U 242 DEATH OF JOHN COOMBES. of their day's work, and were pushing on, under sail, to encamp on the land distant about three miles, when John Coombes (stoker of " Intrepid") who a minute before had stepped out from the drag ropes, was heard to cry out in a tone of anguish, " Help ! help ! " The whole party imme- diately ran to his assistance, but on reaching him they found life quite extinct. M. de Bray in- stantly pitched the tent, and prepared hot water, which he applied to the stomach and soles of the feet. During the time the water was being prepared, the only restorative they had, — a little brandy, — was administered, whilst the men rubbed the hands and feet of the poor man unceasingly, hoping to recall the vital spark, but all without effect ; his death in every respect resembled that of our late steward. M. de Bray was now placed in an embar- rassing position, for his orders from Commander M'Clintock were, to take the dep6t from Point Nias and carry it on in advance to Cape Fisher, but the men expressed a great wish to take the corpse of their shipmate on board, in order that he might be buried on Dealy Island, beside the graves of his shipmates. M. de Bray therefore naturally, and very properly in his position, acceded to their request, although it was opposed to his own conviction, and RETURN OF DE BRAY. 24 made the best of his way on board. Nor is he, as a foreigner, to be in the least degree blamed for pursuing this line of conduct, although had any other .officer of the squadron been in command of the party, his duty, I presume, would have been to have buried the body, and to have fulfilled his orders, after which, if the men had wished it, to have exhumed the corpse, and brought it on board. Graves on Dealy Inland. Captain Kellett being absent, a party was de- spatched in the course of the afternoon, to com- municate the distressing intelligence, as well as to make arrangements for carrying out the dep6t for Commander M'Clintock to Cape Fisher. R 2 h* 244 LIVING CALF CAPTURED. During the afternoon Mr. Dean returned with the carcases of the animals shot yesterday, also a young bull calf about four days old, which he had caught in the vicinity of the scene of yester- day's slaughter, when in all probability the mother had been shot. The little animal was about the size of a small lamb *, with a large head, and pro- minent eyes. On its arrival on board, it could scarcely stand on its legs, but after partaking of a little warm milk, from a phial, the mouth being covered with chamois leather, it appeared to be thriving, and for a day or two, ran about the decks in such great glee, as to induce us to hope we might be enabled to convey to England in safety, this interesting specimen of an animal so little known as the musk-ox. Unfortunately, however, Hs strength gradually decreased, and on the fourth or fifth day it died. Thursday J Idth At 3*30 a.m. Captain Kellett returned on board, and on the same day despatched Lieut. Pim with a party to take the cart from the head of Bridport Inlet, across the land, for the use of Lieut. Hamilton on his return; and • Height to fore shoulder, 19 inches ; from nose to ^ail, 20 inches ; weight 25 pounds. RETURN OF MR. NARES. 245 in doing this service he was to carry out the orders given to M. de Bray by Commander M'Clintock. About this time a suite of four cabins was com- menced on board the " Intrepid," for the accommo- dation of the officers expected from " Investigator;" and the foundation of the dep6t house laid near the south point of Dealy Island. Tuesday^ 31s^ — At 3 a. m. observed a sledge under sail to the westward ; hoisted the colours, and Mr. Nares returned after an absence of fifty- seven days from the ship, having parted from Lieut. Mecham and men (all well) in lat. 75** 35' N., long. 118° 30' W., on the 2nd inst. One of Mr. Nares's party, — John Bailey, P. R. M. — was so unwell, from general debility, swollen legs, and other symptoms of scurvy, as to render his immediate return indispensable, although he had been directed to transport the cart from Winter Harbour to the shores of Liddon Gulf. On the fourth day after his arrival, Mr. Nares was again on his way to Winter Harbour, to per- form the above service. Sunday i June 5th — At 5 a.m. this morning I was aroused from a heavy sleep by hearing a strange voice calling me. Whilst meditating in a half dreamy state respecting the owner, my curtain B 3 EV'i I' ll'i i : ')> 246 UNEXPECTED ARRIVAL OF COM. RICHARDS. was drawn back, and a figure clad in seal*skins entered my cabin, exclaiming, " Well ! how are you, old fellow I " I immediately recognised Commander Richards of " Assistance." My astonishment at such an unexpected visit had well nigh deprived me of utterance for a minute ; on recovering my senses, and finding I was really awake, I jumped out and had the pleasure of grasping the hand of an officer, who is a universal favourite with all comprising the Expedition. His men arrived a few minutes afterwards in perfect health. Commander Richards had been fifty-seven days absent from the " Assistance," wintering in com- pany with the " Pioneer," in Northumberland Sound, on the east shore of Wellington Channel, lat. 76* 58' N., long. 96" 58 W. (all well). He had with him when he left (April 10th) no less than six sledges, two boats and fifty-seven men. One of the boats (whale) he had deposited on Cape Lady Franklin, the other (an ice boat) on the west shore of Byam Martin Channel. He had visited and deposited at the rendezvous (76° 32' N., 104° 45' W.), on the 30th April, a despatch from Sir Edward Belcher ; from this position he crossed over towards Point Bradford, on Melville Island, and was ROUTE OF COM. RICHARDS. 247 continuing along the land to the N.W., when he unexpectedly fell in with Hamilton and his party, on the 17th May, in lat. 76'' 45' N., long. 109** W., 110 miles in a straight line from our position. Finding, from the distribution of our travelling parties, he had no prospect of exploring unknown land, Commander Richards deemed it advisable to visit the " Resolute," in order to learn the latest intelligence respecting the "Investigators," and parted from Hamilton, who now made for the ren- dezvous, accelerating his speed and lengthening his hours of travelling, in hopes of catching up with Lieut. Sherard Osborn, who had only turned back six hours before the meeting of Captain Richards and Hamilton. At the cart (Hecla and Griper Bay) the party from " Assistance," fell in with Lieut. Bedford Pim, who had been weather-bound for the last four days. It was rather fortunate they did so, for having expended twelve, of the sixteen days' provisions he had taken with him, his party would have been hard pressed had not Commander Richards sup- plied him with four days' provisions for himself and crew. Captain Kellet was absent (intending to make a rough survey of the Inlet) when Commander R 4 1' I \ 248 CAPT. KELLETT RETURNS ON BOARD. Richards arrived. I was in hopes he was yet in sight of the staff on Dealy Island, and therefore caused the signal of recall to be hoisted, in expec- tation of his immediate return. As however he had not returned by the following day (Monday at noon), M. de Bray was despatched with a party to seek him, as it was of the utmost importance that he and Commander Richards should see each other, previous to the latter officer's departure for Northumberland Sound. At 4 A.M. on the 7th, the Captain returned with the dogs, and great was his gratification or seeing Captain Richards, who was induced to remain until the evening of the 8th, in hopes of Domville's return from the Bay of Mercy with an account of the future proceedings of the " Investigator." In this, however, we were doomed to be disappointed, and even although Domville was expected hourly, it was admitted by all on board, that no time should be lost in commencing such a journey as the one Captain Richards had before him, at this advanced stage of the season. Not that we were particularly anxious about his safety, for we considered his boats insured that ; but because, during the time he had been on board, his feet became so inflamed as to prevent his putting them DEPARTURE OF COM. UICUARDF. to the ground for a whole day. It is true that when he left he could walk without pain ; but we could not conceal from ourselves the fact, that the most trying part of his journey had yet to be accomplished; — for arctic travellers are aware from past experience, that the most intense cold is pre- ferable to wading through sludge ice and water, up to the knees for ten hours consecutively every day. We all sincerely regretted parting from our old friend, and with three heartfelt cheers and a sincere wish for his safe return we bade him fare- well. Thursday^ dth. — Lieut. Pim and party returned from Cape Fisher, after an absence of twenty-two days from the ship. About this period, the arrival and departure of sledges was of almost daily occur- rence, and we were consequently kept in one con- tinued state of confusion and excitement. At midnight on the day of Lieut. Pim's arrival, just after we had sunk into our first sleep, a sledge was announced in sight, to the westward. We soon after distinguished the flag of Dr. Domville, and, in company with several other officers, I ad- vanced some distance to meet him. He arrived on board at 2 a.m. on the 10th with Mr. Sainsbury (mate) on the sledge; with 250 RETURN OF DR. DOMVILLE. two other invalids, and his own party at the drag- ropes. Fortunately, the dogs and sledge were just about to start for Skene Bay, to take a supply of ammu- nition to Captain Kellett. I therefore took ad- vantage of this opportunity to forward Captain M'Clure's despatch. By Dr. Domville, we heard that the " Investi- gator " was to be abandoned on Saturday, June 4th, by the whole of the remaining officers and crew who would of course, make direct for our winter quarters. It appeared that on Captain M'Clure's return, he had, in accordance with the written instruc- tions of Captain Kellett, directed the medical officers, Drs. Armstrong and Domville, to hold a medical survey on the men, with a view to ascertain their physical capabilities of remaining another winter. This was accordingly done in the presence of Captain M*Clure. The result proved, that with one or two exceptions, both officers and men were more or less affected by scorbutic symptoms; and from want of food and general debility, were utterly incapable of resisting the severity and privations, attendant on another (the fourth) winter in these regions. ■ f '* investigator" to be abandoned. 251 As each man underwent the above examination, he was asked by the Commander if he would volunteer to remain by the ship another winter or no^ The result of this inquiry proved that only ten, including the Commander, were willing to remain. These were the Commander, four officers (all of them), one warrant officer, three seamen, and one marine. So that, had not the medical report been so decisive, the number of volunteers required (twenty) as specified by Captain Kellett, not being made up, would have obliged Captain M'Clure to desert the ship. Dr. Domville, after the question had been finally settled, set out on his return across the strait, bringing a host of little things belonging to the officers and men. Unfortunately, when about sixteen miles to the westward of Point Hearne, his sledge broke down. He was now necessitated to leave most of the articles on the floe, and make forced marches with a broken sledge towards the ship, principally with the view of relieving poor Sainsbury from his pre- sent irksome position on the sledge. The Captain returned on board on the 11th to be present on the arrival of the officers and crew of the " Investigator," who were expected in a few I ■ 1 252 TKAVELLING JOURNAL days. On the 13th, the Captain desired me to prepare to leave the ship the following day (14th), for the purpose of running a meridional distance between our position and Winter Harbour, as well as to ascertain the exact variation of the latter place, there being a discrepancy of five or six degrees between that observed by Sir E. Parry in 1819-20 and Lieut. M'Clintock in 1851. I was also to proceed to the scene of Domville's accident and pick up the articles he had left there. A little before noon on the 14th, Mr. Nares and party returned from Liddon's Gulf. At four the same day, I set out with twelve day's provisions. ROUGH NOTES OP A JOURNEY TROM DEALT ISLAND TO EIGHTEEN MILES BEYOND POINT HEARNE, FROM JUNE 14 TO 24th (inclusive). June^ lUK — At 4 p.m., left the ship with six men and the dog Napoleon (Naps,) a runner sledge, and twelve days' provisions, and proceeded at a good pace across a level floe towards Cape Bounty. Weather cloudy, wind light from N.N.W. Caught TO WINTER HARBOUR. 253 several little lemmings on the floe, at least five or six miles from the land. Naps enjoyed worrying the little creatures, but occasionally met with a rebuff from the infuriated animals springing up and inflicting a wound on his nose. At 10 p.m., pitched the tent, about nine miles from the ship. ;i Interior of a Tent. Wednesday, 16th. — Same wind as yesterday, weather fine and clear. Struck and proceeded to the westward : 4*30 abreast of Cape Bounty cairn, distant about two miles; here we got entangled amidst a confused mass of hummocks, which en- '! y.m i ll< : 254 TRAVELLING JOURNAL tailed considerable labour. At six, pitched tent, and made a capital dinner off musk-ox. After a good sleep, and hearty breakfast, we packed up and proceeded at 4 p.m. We found the floe was gradually becoming worse as we ap- proached to the westward, and for the last two or three hours of this march the men were often im- mersed above their knees in water and sludge ice. About 9*30 P.M., observed a brilliant parhelia, one on each side of the sun in a feathery halo, very peculiar in appearance, and with the prismatic colours beautifully distinct. Diameter of halo, 46°. At ten, pitched tent, shifted stockings, and after a pannican of tea (the most delicious beverage for tra- vellerf ,) composed ourselves to rest for four hours. Thursday^ IQth. — 2 a.m. (wind north), parhelia as last march. At 3 a.m. arrived abreast of low peninsula east of Fife Point. Shot a boatswain- bird, and caught several lemmings. Floe along the land better than before ; 4*45, abreast of cairn on Fife Point, but saw no signs of dep6t ; six, pitched tent between Fife and Reef Points. Weather warm and pleasant, but floe wet and uncomfort- able. After an excellent dinner off musk-beef, flavoured with onion powder (an excellent and portable condiment), we composed ourselves to 1, TO WINTER HARBOUR. 255 tent, sleep, which we all heartily enjoyed after the past day's work. Packing the Sledge preparatory to marching. I 3*30 P.M. — Breakfast ; struck tent, and proceeded towards Winter Harbour. Advancing ahead of the sledge for the purpose of ascertaining the exact site of Parry's observatory, I was fortunate enough to find it without any trouble, and at six we en- camped on a gravel ridge within twenty yards of the grave of a seaman of the " Hecla." The grave was in a good state of preservation, the letters on the tombstone being very legible ; the inscription was as follows : — m u i' t 256 TRAVELLING JOURNAL I I 1 " To the Memory of William Scott, seaman, His Brit. Maj. Ship «Hecla,' Obt. June 30. 1820. ^t. 33 years." There were two places, which had evidently been the sites of observatories. I decided that the upper and inshore one, had been used for magnetic pur- poses, and that the lower one (distant from the former about 100 yards) had been used for astro- nomical observations. On all sides of our camping place, we found traces of Sir Edward Parry's Expedition. Nails, wood, rope, twine, bottles, preserved meat tins, coals, iron hoops, and other articles were strewn around ; but the most valuable articles were an anchor button, almost as bright as when it came from the manu- factory of Messrs. Hammond, Turner and Son, the makers. It was not rounded as the buttons are of the present day, but flat, with the raised anchor and crown. This on my return, I presented to Cap- tain Kellett. The other and equally interesting relic of the " Hecla " and " Griper," was a chisel in an excellent state of preservation, the maker's name, " Ward," being quite distinct. Friday, 17 th. — Obtained observations for time and variation, and a round of angles. Ten a.m., struck tent and proceeded towards Sandstone Boulder ; distant from the observatory about one mile and a half. Took a round of angles, and de- TO WINTER HARBOUR. 257 posited record. Pitched tent, intending to com- mence day's march at 4 p.m. Whilst sketching the sandstone, several brace of ptarmigan flew round us, apparently startled by such unexpected intruders. We shot a brace of them, fine plump birds, the cock in snow-white plumage, the hen more like the English partridge. John McLean also wounded a deer severely with a charge of shot, and adopted the novel expedient of driving the unfortunate animal towards the tent, near which a knife soon terminated its sufferings. At 4 P.M. struck tents, and proceeded, wending our way across the land, in order to avoid a detour round Point Hearne. At the end of three hours' hard dragging, we reached the beach line, and struck off through a mass of hummocks, until we had gained an ofiing of one mile from the land ; we then altered course along shore to the westward. The road proved very bad, pools of water and sludge predominating ; these with thick misty weather rendered it a very laborious march. Shortly after leaving the beach, the tracks of several sledges were observed ; these we conjectured to belong to the expected party from the " Investi- gator." At 10 P.M. pitched tent, all feeling very tired. s 258 TRAVELLING JOURNAL ) f <■ i V ; Saturday, 18fA. — 2 a. m. Wind fresh from N.N.W. with sleet and hail. Struck tent, and advanced on to the westward keeping in recent tracks; 6 a.m., pitched; no signs of Domville's dep6t. All very wet and tired. Enjoyed the hot mess of musk-ox soup and bouilli. At 4 P.M. struck tent, and proceeded on to the westward. Weather misty and miserable; wind fresh from N.W. At seven, reached the scene of Domville's disaster, which I suppose to be sixteen miles west of Point Hearne. On examination we found that the parties from the " Investigator " had taken some of the articles ; the remainder we quickly transferred to the sledge. This service was facilitated by the fact of our being nearly up to our knees in water. After a luncheon of cold fat bacon, biscuit, and grog, we began to retrace our steps ; 10 p. m., pitched, all wet through up to the middle. Decided in my own mind that tea* was the greatest luxury supplied to arctic travellers. Sunday, l^th — 2 a.m. wind light from north- ward, weather gloomy ; struck tent and went on, keeping in old tracks towards Point Hearne. Floe this march much improved ; 6 a. m., pitched * All arctic travellers seem to agree to this. TO WINTER HARBOUR. 259 tent. 4*30 p. M., light northerly wind, with dark, gloomy weather. Struck tent and went on in old tracks ; at the end of three hours reached the beach, and proceeded by our outward route across the land. At 11 "30 arrived at the old encampment in Winter Harbour. I had walked on some distance in advance of the sledge, and was standing beside the grave of poor Scott, lost in meditating on the strange vicissitudes attendant on a sailor's life, when happening to cast my eye in shore, I observed two king ducks, about 200 yards distant. Walking quietly up within fifty yards, I selected the male, as I Wanted the skin for a specimen. Fortunately I succeeded in killing my bird, and was much pleased in finding myself in possession of one of the best speciro.ens of a king eider-duck I had ever seen. Monday, 20^A. — Wind fresh from W. N. W. with gloomy weather, and occasional squalls of hail and snow. The sun showed itself at times, but the limbs were not sufficiently well defined to ensure a good set of observations. I therefore decided on waiting until the following day, when I hoped to be successful ; in the meantime I in- formed the men they could take the guns and scour the adjoining country for game. s 2 < ). \ i h a I s f I- 9 260 TRAVELLING JOUllNAL Tuesday, 2\8t. — Early this morning, a herd of deer were observed on the opposite side of the harbour. I must confess I was fast asleep at the time ; two of the crew went in chase. In the course of a few hours they returned to the tent. John McLean having shot a deer (with shot) and Northhousefour ducks : all the latter were killed at one discharge ! a feat, I believe, never surpassed. This morning the sun kindly favoured us with his presence, and allowed of my obtaining a good set of observations for time and variation. For the latter I took true bearings, the object being the cairn erected by Sir Edward Parry on N.E. hill. 11 '30 A.M. wind southerly ; fine weather. Struck tent dnd proceeded to the eastward (via Reef Point) towards Fife Point. The floe proved bad for travelling, the water in many places reaching the men's knees. At 2*30 p.m. arrived abreast of dep6t cairn, and by the merest accident discovered the provisions placed there in the autumn. We now pitched the tent, and commenced digging out the casks : viz. : — Beef 1 Bum (28 galls.) - 1 Pork 1 Do. ullage - 1 Flour 1 Lime juice jar - 1 Tea and sugar 1 TO WINTER HARBOUR. 261 These we removed, by means of sledges, to the rising ground near the cairn. During the night the wind blew strong from the southward, attended by a heavy fall of snow ; objects not visible within fifty yards, we therefore remained encamped until 4 P.M. on Wednesday, 22nd, when the weather having cleared a little, we moved on to the eastward, water and sludge ice predominating. After taking a round of angles at the extremity of alow peninsula (Point Wakeham ?) we again went on until 10 p.m. when the tent was pitched. Thursday^ 2^rd, — At 2 a.m. a light air from N. W. ; fine weather. Down tent, and proceeded towards Cape Bounty until 6 a.m., when we again encamped, and enjoyed an excellent kettle mess of musk-beef and deer. At 5 P.M. again advanced to the eastward. Our track during this march lay through continuous pools of water knee deep ^^per mare per glaciem " ; about 7*30 we were abreast of the cairn on Cape Bounty. Here the floe was even worse than before, the men at times being obliged to extricate each other from the deep sludge, as well as to dig out the sledge, which often sunk above the bearers. We, however, managed to make a little prgress in the right direction, and when, about 9 "30 p.m.? s 3 262 TRAVELLING JOUKNAL V f ! 1 I i we encamped, many of the crew as well as myself were fast asleep before tea was announced. Arctic travelling in tbe month of June. Friday f 2Ath. — At 2 a.m. we again started ; the weather at the time was overcast and gloomy, with occasional showers, which penetrated to our skins long before the march was over. About four we observed the ship ; at six pitched tents on a patch of comparatively hard snow. At this time the weather had cleared off, and we were favoured by a warm sun and clear sky. We therefore took advantage of this promise of a fine day, by undress- TO WINTER HARBOUR. 2r»3 ing before bagging our8elve9, and hanging our clothes outside the tent to dry. At 3 P.M. weather warm and fine. Packed up and started for the ship. Our clothing had dried during the time we were encamped, but we were again soon wet up to our middles, and reached the ship in that state at 7 p.m., after four hours' march through one continuous pool of deep water. END OF THE JOURNAL. ■'.''■■ ": '<■ 9 4 il 264 CHAP. XT. ProceedingB of the " North Star."— Roche's Dog Journey. — Dr. M'Cormick's Boat Voyage. —Arrival of the " Prince Albert " at Beechey. — An unexpected arrival at Beechey. — Proceedings of "North Star." — Sumptuous Breakfast. — Receipt for Arctic Soup. — Captain M'CIure harangues the Crew. — Remarkable Coincidence. — Shooting Parties de- spatched. — Success in obtaining Game. — A few words about Animals. — On the Animal Productions of the Arctic Regions. — On the Animal Productions of the Arctic Regions, from Personal Observation. — False reports on the Animn i Produc- tions. — Theory of Arctic Vegetation. On my return I found that all the officers and crew of the " Investigator " had arrived from the Bay of Mercy during my absence, viz, on Friday 17th, the ship having been abandoned on the 3rd inst. The officers and crew, numbering in all 61, were distributed between the " Resolute " and her tender, whose united crews now amounted to no less than 138 souls. I was greatly astonished on hear- ing of Mr. Roche's return from Beechey Tsland on PROCEEDINGS OF THE " NORTH STAU." 265 the 18th inst., with one man and dogs from the " North Star," the whole distance (above 300 miles) having been accomplished in fourteen days. Roche, it appears, reached the " North Star " on the 22nd day after leaving Dealy Island ; but the sledge did not arrive until the 25th, as Messrs. Roche and Wynniatt, with Thompson, A.B., had gone on in advance of the main body, from a short distance the west side of Cape Martyr. He found the " North Star " had been on shore since September last, the ice having thrown her on the ground, on the east point of Beechey Island. Until the ice had become stationary for the winter, their situation was unpleasant in the extreme, as with the falling tide, she heeled over to such a degree, as to necessitate the use of life lines along each side of the deck. As the season advanced, they took advantage of every time of high water to build her up by means of a snow wall under her lee side. In consequence of the ship's position, the work of officers and crew had been extremely laborious, and it may safely be inferred their winter was less pleasant than it would have been under diflFerent circum- scances. The ice saws had been kept constantly ■ ; I ' '. 266 roohe's dog journey. at work — providing blocks for the wall up to December ! A short interregnum then occurred until February, when the saws were again put in requisi- tion, to forward as much as possible the chances of heaving the ship off, soon after the surface water ceased to solidify to any considerable degree of thickness. Roche on his journey down found the floe good on the whole, excepting in Austin Channel, where the hummocky nature of the ice rendered dragging a heavy sledge laborious in the extreme. Sludgy ice was first observed near Point Frazer, on the 24th May, and water near Cape Capel on the following day. Two musk-oxen were killed, and deer seen on Byam Martin Island. One deer killed, and many more seen on Baker Island. Ducks were first seen near Cape Martyr on the 28th May. Bears were numerous between Cape Cockburn and Baker Island ; two were killed. All the dep6ts (three in number) laid down by this ship in 1852 — viz. at Alison's Inlet, Assistance Harbour, and Point Griffiths — had been disturbed by bears ; the one near Alison's Inlet had been injured, and fourteen pounds of .preserved meats were missing from a case. Two of the sledge's crew were di tabled for several ROCHE'S DOG JOURNEY. 267 days by severe attacks of diarrha'a. Roche relates the following anecdote, illustrative of the keen scent of the dogs. It appears that, whilst crossing Byam Martin Channel, the dogs suddenly started off at full speed, and altered course in the direction of the wind. After running upwards of half a mile, they as suddenly halted, close to a seal hole in the ice ; but their exertions were unrewarded. On his way to Beechey, Roche discovered a re- markable cavity in the ice, formed by a seal. It would appear that after getting through the ice, the seal had formed a cavern in the snow, the only communication with the upper world being a small air-hole. On his return to Dealy Island with one man, and the " North Star's " dogs (left by Mr. Kennedy of " Prince Albert," the previous year), Mr. Roche observed a large crack — E. S. E. and W. N. W. — near Cape Hotham, averaging six feet in width. The sail left in the boat near the Cape had been dragged out — probably by bears — to a distance of twenty yards. Three bears (two full grown and one cub), killed during the journey, were brought to bay by the dogs. Deer were seen on Baker and Moore Islands. A little sleet, near approach to rain, fell on the 7th June. 268 DR. Mccormick's boat voyage. On the 19th August last year, Dr. M*Cormick proceeded up Wellington Channel in a whale boat, to explore the east coast as far as Baring Bay of the chart ; in order to ascertain if a passage existed — as he hoped and imagined — from near that locality into Jones' Sound. He returned after twenty days' absence — Sept 8th, ^— having reached as far as the north point of Baring Bay ; the latter he describes as being much shallower than it is drawn on the chart. The day Dr. M'Cormick started a vessel hove in sight from the eastward : she proved to be the private ketch " Prince Albert," Mr. Kennedy (late of H. B.C.), commanding, fitted out by Lady Franklin. She was from Batty Bay, — Prince Regent's Inlet, — where she had spent the winter of 1851-52. During the spring of 1 852, Mr. Kennedy crossed the narrow isthmus at the south end of Brentford Bay ; and made the best of his way by the Prescott Islands to Cape Walker, from whence he had returned to the vessel by the way of Port Leopold, where he sojourned fourteen days, in order, as he states, to refresh his men ! After giving the " North Star " his dogs, and a considerable quantity of pemican, he departed from Beechey Island, with the intention of making the best of his way to England. It is " PRINCE ALBERT " AND " ISABEL "ARRIVE. 269 worthy of remark that Mr. Hepburn (who was a companion of Sir John Franklin, during his perilous journey up the Coppermine in 1821) was on board this little vessel ; although at an advanced age, the hope of succouring his old captain and friend had induced him once more to contend with the priva- tions of an arctic voyage. She also had on board a French officer, M. Bellot *, of the Imperial Navy, who, from humane motives, and a love of enterprise and adventure, had volunteered his services to ac- company the Expedition. The French naval au- thorities had fallen in with his views by allowing him to absent himself on such a mission, in the ' mt of Lady Franklin's accepting his proffered services, which she most gratefully received. Scarcely had the surprise excited by the visit of the " Prince Albert," passed away, when another unlooked-for event took place, in the shape of another arrival on the 8th September. This proved to be no other than the " Isabel" screw schooner. Both these vessels were equipped by Lady Frank- lin. At the time we left England there appeared to be little or no probability of the latter vessel I * The sad fate of M. Bellot, who lost his life in the Welling- ton Channel, while attached to H.M.S. "Phoenix," in 1854, will never be forgotten by Englishmen. 270 ARRIVAL OF THE " ISABEL." IH taking any part in the search for the missing expedition in any quarter of the globe.* Commander Inglefield, however (an old Sama- rang), with a zealous determination to attempt the exploration of Wolstenholme and Smith Sounds, left as late in the season as July, and after most unprecedented success as regards winds, weather, and season, through Melville Bay, he scoured the shores of "Wolstenholme, Whale, Smith, and Jones' Sounds, and had called at Beechey Island to deliver letters, papers, &c., as well as to take home the latest news of our expedition. He intended returning by the west coast of Baffin's Bay. He left Beechey Island on the ninth. Mr. Roche, on hearing of these unexpected arri- vals, volunteered to return immediately, as I have stated, with one man and the dogs, for the purpose of communicating the intelligence to Captain Kellett, to which arrangement Commander PuUen at length consented, and on the fourth day after reaching the " North Star " he again set out on his return to the " Resolute " where, as stated, he arrived * The reader may perhaps remember Captain Beatson's admirably well-conceived scheme to proceed in this vessel to Behring's Strait, and her unfortunate detention, almost on the eve of departure. PROCEEDINGS OF THE " NORTH STAR." 271 on the fourteenth day from Beechey Island ; the distance being upwards of 300 miles. I had almost forgotten to say that Commander PuUen had, in the month of March, gone to Point Phillips (west side of Wellington Channel), and from thence to Baillie Hamilton Island ; his object was to com- municate with " Assistance " if in this neighbour- hood. As, however, no vessels were in sight from the summit of the island, he determined on re- tracing his steps to the " North Star," whose posi- tion required his presence. Before closing the remarks concerning the " Investigator," it would be as well to mention, that Captain M'Clure had, pre- vious to quitting the ship, landed three months' pro- visions for sixty-six men, leaving on board two months' for the same number. Perhaps the smallest quantity of provisions ever consumed by a travelling party, where sufficient could have been obtained, occurred in Captain M'Clure's party of eight men, when he first reached Barrow's Straits from the westward, and thus esta- blished the existence of the North-W^st Passage, in October, 1850. The party was away ten days, and consumed during that period (exclusive of chocolate and tea) 272 SUMPTUOUS BREAKFAST. — " INVESTIGATOR." '/, the following solids only : — viz. pemican, 18 lbs., biscuit, 40 lbs. The cause is attributed to the want of water, the quantity of fuel being insufficient to afford the ne- cessary supply.* Amongst the numerous anecdotes, illustrative of the biting hunger to which they were subjected, the following are amusing enough to create a smile even amongst the sufferers. Whenever any game was killed, the hunter had the privilege of retaining certain parts of the animal; and in addition a pound of meat was awarded to those who left the ship for the purpose of. bringing on board the carcass. This latter servic3 seldom fell to the lot of the hunter, if the animal had been shot at any great distance from the vessel, as in most cases he was glad to rest awhile after his exertions. On one occasion an officer volunteered to go for the carcass of a deer. "Certainly," replied the Commander, " you of course will obtain your pound of meat." The officer expressed his satisfaction and was turning away, when the Captain, seized with a sudden fit of generosity, added — "And * The above was communicated by Mr. Paine, of H. M. S. •* Investigator." RECEIIT FOR ARCTIC SOUP. 273 Mr. , if you leave early to-morrow morning — say four o'clock — I shall allow you to have two ounces and a half of oatmeal in addition ! " the officer looked his thanks, but was unabie to express his gratitude in words. Report adds, the vision of such a splendid breakfast in prospective caused him a very restless night. The second anecdote refers to the manufacture of Arctic soup. This delicious, and nourishing article of diet is thus made : — First, melt the snow (melted snow being the principal ingredient), then boil the water, in which immerse the allowance of salt-beef, four pounds — having previously been carefully divided into eight portions — for the space of ten minutes. After which each member of the mess subscribes one ounce of flour — each allowance drawn sepa- rately — the lohole eight ounces are now boiled in the greasy water after the beef is removed. As soon as it is well thickened, the soup is taken from the fire, and soon disappears down the throats of the hungry subscribers. I now turn to a more pleasing anecdote, illus- trating as it does the never failing mercy of the Almighty. I have before observed in this Journal, that during the night previous to the arrival of m ■• 4l U\ h I' ;• 'I m ii 274 CAPTAIN M'cLURE HARANGUES THE CREW. Lieut. Pim in the Bay of Mercy, the first death occurred on board the " Investigator " since leaving England in January, 1850. The effect was such as might have been antici- pated on the minds of men, already depressed by hunger and despair ; causes which were vi- sibly affecting both mind and body. Captain M'Clure, therefore, with a view of reassuring the men and sustaining their drooping spirits, called " all hands " on the quarter-deck, and in a brief speech, — in which he adverted to the death of their shipmate, — implored them to be true to themselves and to the service to which they belonged ; not to despair, but look forward to the future with a firm determination to overcome the difficulties of their present situation, and bear the vicissitudes which must befall them, with all the fortitude of British seamen. In conclusion, he reminded them they were as much under the providence of a merciful God, there as elsewhere ; thus inculcating the same principles as did Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who (in the words of the inspired Longfellow) is made to say, to his frightened mariners, " Do not fear ! Heaven is as near By water as by land." SHOOTING PARTIES DESPATCHED. 275 Captain M'Clure wound up his harangue by pointing to a cloud edged with a bright light, and assuring his attentive listeners that not that only, but every cloud had its silver lining; and added he, " it is my firm conviction that the cloud of adversity under which we now are, will not prove an exception to the rule ! " That very day the exploring party from the " Resolute " reached them. The following morning, the Captain again sent for the crew, and pointing out the manifest workings of an all-seeing God, as displayed in their behalf, he concluded by saying — "I was there- fore right, my men, when I stated that every cloud had its silver lining — the arrival of the little band from the * Resolute ' is ours ; and let me implore you my lads to remember, on your return to your families and homes, that there are churches in England as well as public houses." About this time, musk-oxen, deer, geese, ducks, and ptarmigan, were seen in great abundance, and a fair proportion of each were brought on board the " Resolute." Shooting parties were despatched in every direction, all of whom were eminently suc- cessful in contributing to the general stock of fresh meat, which was now issued every day, at the rate T 2 276 SUCCESS IN OBTAINING GAME. of one and a half pounds per man per diem. As the number of mouths to be fed now amounted to 138, Captain Kellett, deemed it necessary to issue hares, geese, and indeed all small game, in common with the musk-beef and venison. The smaller animals were issued at the following rate, viz: — hares, 8 lbs., ducks, 3 lbs., geese, 3 lbs., ptarmigan, 1 lb. It is almost impossible to arrive at the exact number of animals killed since our first arrival, although I may fairly give myself credit for taking some little trouble in keeping the list as correct as possible. . During the first week in July, three shooting parties, consisting of five officers and ten men, were despatched in various directions in search of game. "We may be said to have hunted thirty miles of coast line, by eight miles in breadth — i. e., from Point Ross to beyond Cape Bounty ; and these extensive hunting-grounds have yielded a quantity of game, exceeding our most sanguine hopes ; quite sufficient indeed to confirm the many savants in England, in their theories respecting the abun- dance and variety of animal life in these regions. Let us not however too readily jump at con- clusions, but calmly, and without prejudice for or against these theories, investigate the circum- A FEW WORDS ABOUT ANIMALS. 277 stances which have rendered our success so re- markable. In the first place, Melville Island was already known to be the favourite resort of animals, in preference to the lands of Cornwallis, Bathurst, North Devon, including the south shores of Barrow's Straits. We therefore, on our arrival at our present winter quarters, looked forward with some reason, to as successful a result in hunting, as was experienced by Sir Edward Parry in his ever- memorable voyage of 1819 — 20. In this we have not been deceived. On the contrary, our efibrts have been crowned with unexpected success ; and, judging from my limited experience, I am induced to believe that a small body of men, well armed, with health and strength, sufficient to enable them to range the hills around, to a distance of ten or twelve miles from the ship, might, if only animal food were required, sustain life for a limited period on the produce of the chase. I say a limited period of time, for we have now before our eyes, in the crew of the " Investigator," living proofs of the injurious efi^ects of a prolonged stay in those regions, on the mental as well as the bodily capabilities of the human frame. Game was not wanting in the vicinity of the Bay of Mercy ; T 3 I 278 ON THE ANIMAL PUODUCTIONS and during their first winter there, when the crew were first placed on a limited scale of provisions, numerous deer, hares, ptarmigan, &c., were pro- cured ; but with the approach of the second winter in the bay (the third within the arctic circle), an apathetic indifference pervaded the men. With their strength, which had decreased with the con- tinuation of the small allowance of provisions, all their energy seemed to forsake them, and, as symptoms of scurvy were manifested in the system, they lost all animation, and allowed feelings of lethargy to master them, which utterly precluded any hope of success in hunting. The small quantity of game that was procured during the winter of 1852-53, is to be chiefly attributed to the energy of the oflicers, all of whom were of opinion that another winter, would have reduced them so much, as to prevent their going any distance from the ship in search of game, which had now become very scarce in the immediate vicinity of their winter quarters. The above facts, in my opinion, tend to prove that even amidst comparative plenty (so far as animal life is concerned) the approach of a third sea- son brings with it a depression of spirits which few minds are strong enough to bear up against, more OF THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 270 particularly when scurvy, one of the most dreadful diseases peculiar to seamen, — and God knows they are subjected to many, — appears amongst them ; the blood becomes stagnant, teeth loosened, gums and palate black and sore, flesh softened, all animation ceases, and with the sun, as he sinks beneath the horizon, leaving the dark and gloomy night of three months duration to usurp his throne, the last ray of hope departs. The impartial reader must also remember that Melville Island forms but a small portion of the arctic regions, which by the bye, is far too vague and undefined a term, to be used when referring to a particular portion. So far as I am enabled to judge from my own experience, as well as that of our predecessors, I think it may with reason be considered as an established fact, that the larger animals, viz., musk-oxen and deer, seldom if ever, visit any other land bordering on Barrow's Straits, save Melville Island. In making this assertion I have not lost sight of the few skulls and bones, which have been found at various places out of Melville Island. But as these localities have been visited, and searched effectually, without obtaining any game, I see no reason to modify in any manner my opinion as expressed above. T 4 280 ON THE ANIMAL PRODUCTIONS Confirmatory evidence in support of this idea is not wanting, but may be found in the voyage of Sir James Ross (Port Leopold), 1848-49, Captain Austin's expedition (Griffith's Island), 1850-51 ; and later still in the branches of the present Expe- dition, viz.. Sir Edward Belcher in Northumber- land Sound, and Commander Pullen at Beechey Island ; but confining myself to the present time, will I think effectually answer my purpose ; for whilst we have been living on fresh meat of every kind, our friends and co-operators in the search, have scarcely obtained a pound of edible meat. It must be apparent to the reader that I despair of Sir John Franklin and his brave companions still existing within these regions, the more so as the graves and other relics on Beechey Island prove that their first winter was spent in one of the most unproductive places within the arctic circle. Again, the theory that a more temperate climate, richer vegetation, and abundance of animal life increases as the voyager progresses to the north, falls to the ground for Avant of support; for although I confess my inability to meet the subtle arguments of its supporters by answers equally abstruse, I am content to rest satisfied with the OF THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 281 experience of practical men assisted by my own observation. Captain Penny, on his return to England in 1851, reported that animal life * existed in great abundance well to the northward in the Wellington Channel, and thereby caused many learned men in England to fancy its shores (like Melville Island) to be clothed with rich vegetation, and the hills and ice with animal life in abundance. Unfortunately, Sir Edward Belcher has spent a winter in the very locality pointed out as the promised land of exuberance without obtaining, I believe, so much as a single bird. Setting aside the belief of many, that the *' Erebus " and " Terror " were lost on their home- ward route, — a very possible fate to befall any vessel navigating Baffin's Bay on dark nights, amidst innumerable icebergs, — I have reluctantly come to the conclusion that no body of men, could withstand the rigour and privations, attending so protracted a stay amidst the dark and dreary solitudes of the frigid zone, under the same circum- stances in which Sir John and the officers and * Dr. Kane, however, and Lieut, (now Captain) Sherard Osborn, entirely confirm Captain Penny's statements : altliough Sir Edward Belcher's crews were not so fortunate as to meet with the supplies. 282 THEORY OF ARCTIC VEGETATION. I h' I " ill crews of the missing ships, have in all probability been placed. "Whilst fitting out, I overheard a very amusing discourse between an eccentric but talented Scotch gentleman (connected with one of the most impor- tant of our public institutions) and a young officer about to make his first trip to the Northern seas. I have said a discourse, but a lecture would have been more correct, for the officer answered not a word, but silently acquiesced in all advanced by the enthusiastic theorist. " Now," said he, " I see no reason for supposing, that Nature has entirely excluded the northern regions, from participating in the gifts so lavishly displayed, in the more favoured regions of the south. Not that I would have you expect an English landscape, with its meadow lands and picturesque groups of trees; but I venture to predict, that during the summer and autumnal months, you will find the shores of North Devon abounding in rich vegetation, which forms the food on which the numerous animals in that locality exist. There, interspersed with gay mossed, you will find brilliant lichen, and luxuriant saxifrage, with the arctic poppy ; the whole forming a delightful picture and instructive study to the in- quiring mind." // THEORY OF ARCTIC VEGETATION. 283 I leave the sojourners at Beechey Island, on board the " North Star," to confirm or refute the above statement. The numerous animals have dwindled down to an occasional solitary bear, whose flesh, even to hungry men, is aiiy4;hing but palatable; and the above description is far too glowing and imaginative, for the scanty portions of the floral world found at Beechey, or in its neighbourhood ; although it is true that gay mosses and brilliant lichens are to be found there, specimens of which, obtained by Dr. McCormick, may be seen in the Arctic collection at the British Museum. 284 H? CHAP. XII. Mecham and Party return to the Ship. — Sledges, Flags, and Mottoes. — Complete Dep6t House and Cairn. — Com- plete Water-Preparations for Sea. — Dealy Island Races. — Obtain the Variation. — Unexpectedly driven out of Winter Quarters. — Situation of the Ship. — At Sea once more after Eleven Months' detention. ■— Bright Prospects not realised. — Unpleasant Position ; Forty Fathoms to Twelve — Shorten Byam Martin Island Eleven Miles. — Off Point Griffiths. — Extraordinary Ice-blink. Wednesday, July Qth. — At 11 a.m. observed a party approaching the ship from the westward. The flag was recognised to be that of Lieut. Mecham, and the colours on board both vessels were hoisted to welcome his return. At 1 p.m., the party arrived alongside, after an absence of ninety-four days from the ship, having reached lat. 77° 10' N. and long. 122° 30' W. Mecham and crew were in the enjoyment of excellent health, and although a little brought down in appearance, MECHAM AND PARTY RETURN TO THE SHIP. 285 were in every respect, fully capable of contiiming their march weeks longer. About this time, I commenced a series of mag- netic observations, with Fox's dipping neeedle, for dip and intensity. The mean dip proved to be 88° 25'. July^ \%th. — At 9*30 a.m., the men employed erecting the cairn on the top of Dealy Island, observed a party of nine men, without a sledge, advancing towards our position from the northward. They were, of course, the exploring party under Commander M'Clintock. The colours were hoisted, as well as an ensign at each mast-head, as a signal of welcome to the little band of wanderers, returning to their wooden homes, after an absence of 106 days. Shortly after noon they arrived on board, amidst the cheers and heartfelt congratulations of officers and men. All were looking remarkably well — somewhat thinner, perhaps, than when they started — but far more capable of endurance. I find I have omitted to insert the names of H. M. sledges, description of flags, &c., of the va- rious travelling parties. They were as follows: — i! •I: 'J. ; i ! i ; U 286 H.M. SLEDGES, FLAGS, AND MOTTOES. Offlcer'M Name. Capt. Kellett, C. B. Comr. M'Clintock. Lieut. Mecham. Lieut. Bedford Pim. Lieut. R.V. Hamilto.n. Distinguishing Flitg, Name, and Motto. " Erin." " Erin go bragh." " Star of the North." " Lead thou us on." "Discovery.* " John Barrow." Hi ' Hope on,hope ever.' Hope." " I wish for your return." Officer'! Name. Mr. McDougall. Dr. W. T. Domville. Mons. De Bray. Mr. R. Roche. Mr. C. S. Nares. Distinguishing Flag, Name, and Motto. "Horatio Austin." " Spes est solatium periculi." "Sirius." " Deo volente. "Hero." "By Faith and Courage." " Beauty." " Mon Dieu est ma Roche." " Perseverance." " Dum spiro spero." COAL FOUND. 287 The following brief abstract of Lieut. Mecham's journey will prove interesting. Lieut. Mecham with seven men, and two runner sledges (one small for a short detached journey), fully equipped and provisioned for ninety days (inclusive of the quantity laid out in dep6t in autumn '52), left the ship to pursue a western route from Liddon's Gulf. He was accompanied by Mr. Nares (mate), with seven men and a runner sledge, as a dep6t, or auxi- liary party, provisioned for about fifty days, to assist in carrying the necessary stores and provi- sions, for the successful prosecution of the journey. On leaving the ship, the men of the party in- duced Buffer, a young pup, to follow them. He little dreamt, at the time, his absence would be pro- longed to a period of ninety-four days ; but so it was, and on his return it was apparent to all that Buffer had wonderfully improved, during his lengthened tour in the western provinces. Whilst crossing the land between Winter Har- bour and Liddon's Gulf, both musk-oxen and deer were observed, but not in such numbers as during the last autumn. On the arrival of the parties on the south shores of the gulf, a quantity of coal was found, which, for several days, materially assisted in ekeing out their limited allowance of fuel. 288 THE PORTAL OF UNKNOWN GROUND. ill On the 16th April, snow blindness, from which officers and men were alike suffering, compelled them to resort to night travelling, in order to avoid the glare of the sun during the day. The fact of the temperature falling to — 33° (65° below freezing point) is a sufficient proof that necessity alone obliged them to resort to the change. Indeed the previous day, all the men, — with the exception of the officer in advance, and leading men at the sledges, — were blindfolded, and in this manner were dragging their heavy burdens across the floe. On their arrival at Cape Smyth (the portal of unknown and therefore interesting ground), they were detained for two days, by the illness of one of the men, whose legs were swollen to an alarm- ing extent. As the contents of the medicine chest appeared but of little service in such an emer- gency, Lieut. Mecham decided on encamping and applying frequent fomentations, which 1: \d the desired effect. Advantage was taken of their detention at the Cape to scour the country for game, and the following graphic account, descrip- tive of the habits of the musk-ox, is copied verba- tim from Lieut. Mecham's letter of proceedings. " During our stay, I proceeded to the northward, overland, towards the head of Hardy Bay. The MANOSUVRES OF MUSK-OXEN. 289 land rises to about an elevation of 800 feet above the sea, and nearly all the hills are of a remark- able table shape. Musk-oxen were here in very great numbers. On one plain I observed as many as seventy, grazing within a circuit of two miles. On my approach, they divided into herds of about fifteen each, headed by two or three enormous bulls. Their manoeuvres were so quick and regular, that they were to be compared to squadrons of cavalry more than anything I could think of. One herd advanced several times at a gallop within rifle shot, and formed in perfect line, with bulls in front, showing a formidable front of horns. The last time they advanced at a gallop to about sixty yards, and formed in line, the bulls at the same time snorting and tearing up the snow. "Immediately I fired they wheeled round, joined the main herd, and made off out of sight, only waiting occasionally for the wounded one." It would appear that the animal escaped ; but on his return to the tent, Lieut. Mecham shot a deer, which with a fine bull, shot by the men during his absence, partly repaid him for the unfortunate detention during two days' fine weather. On reaching Cape Smyth, the pack ice was found resting against the cliffs ; this continued as far as V 290 NEW LAND DISCOVERED. Cape Cyclops ; beyond which a somewhat better, though still bad, road was found. Between this cape and the S.W. extremity of Melville Island (Cape Russell) the nature of the ground did not appear favourable for game ; for, in most places, the cliffs rose abruptly from the sea. From Cape Russell, new land was discovered to the N.W., towards which the party steered ; and after three days' journey over old hummocky floe, they landed on Eglinton Island on the 2nd of May. On the following day, Mr. Nares and party were despatched on their homeward route, with orders to transport a dep6t left at Cape Hoppncr to Cape Smyth ; and afterwards to transport the cart from Winter Harbour to Liddon's Gulf, and thence to the ship. Nares, previous to leaving, found several pieces of petrified wood, which were brought on board. Several patches of metallic stone were also discovered in the same locality. Following along the south shore of the island to the westward, not without much labour and diffi- culty, — for the pack ice was resting on the beach, — the party at length reached the S.W. point, from whence extensive new land was discovered to the N.W., on the S.E. point of which, Cape Hay, Lieut. Mecham (who had gone on in advance I' PRINCE Patrick's island. — coal found. 291 of the sledge) landed on the 6th. The land on which he stood ultimately proved to be an island, and was honoured with the name of Prince Patrick. The death of a reindeer and several ptarmigan held out hopes of a plentiful supply of game, but in this they were doomed to be disappointed. Advancing to the westward, coal was found in PuUen Bay j from thence they crossed the mouth of Walker Inlet, to the S.W. point (Cape Mecham) of a remarkable peninsula, bearing a strong re- semblance to a boot : in fact, a miniature Italy, barring the temperature. Here the pack proved almost insurmountable. On one occasion they were obliged to steer to the southward for a distance of three miles, in order to attain anything like a tolerable floe. In addi- tion to the hummocks, there were numerous deep chasms in the ice filled with deep snow ; alike as deceptive and dangerous as the pitfalls on the Field of Bannockburn. Into one of these, whilst in ad- vance of the sledge, selecting the best route, Lieut. Mecham fell, and there remained for a quarter of an hour in a perfectly helpless condi- tion; at length, being almost exhausted, he suc- ceeded in extricating himself from what might have proved an icy tomb. Rounding a point which, u 2 ! 292 THE giant's causeway. from the peculiar oppearanco of the ice surround- ing it, was named the Giant's Causeway, the little party crossed Domville Bay towards Cape Manning, where several pieces of decayed wood were found, partly buried in the sandy soil, about ninety feet above the level of the sea. Lieut. Mecham adds, that from its appearance and position, he was induced to believe it had grown in the country. In the vicinity of the Cape, two bears were observed, but decamped before the men arrived within rifle distance. From thence they proceeded to the northward, the land becoming less elevated and more barren as they advanced. After round- ing the western extremity, appropriately named Land's End*, the shore, which could barely be distinguished from the ice, trended to the N.E.f From the most elevated positions that could be obtained, viz., ice hummocks and occasional knolls, no land to the westward was observed ; and from the nature of the pack, which Lieut. Mecham terms tremendous, it may be inferred that if land does exist to the westward, it is at some consider- able distance from Prince Patrick Island. * Lat. 76° 15' N., long. 124° 10' W. f On reference to the chart, it will be seen that but twenty miles of unexplored land lay between the furthest position attained by Commander M'Clintock and Mecham. land's end. — TREES FOUND. 293 The turning point proved to be in lat. 77° 6' N. long. 120° 50' W., from whence the low coast continued to take a north -easterly direction for about ten miles, as far as they could see. At this time but nine days' provisions remained on the sledge, with a distance of 150 miles between them and their nearest dep6t on Cape Cam, the eastern point of Walker Inlet. Retracing their steps a short distance, advantage was taken of a strong N.W. gale to steer boldly across the land, in a southerly direction, in order to avoid the circuit round Land's End, as also the execrable road. For some distance they travelled over a dreary plain, without a single object to relieve the eye ; but at length they unexpectedly found themselves amongst ravines ; and although by having to follow their tortuous windings, their work was increased, it proved an agreeable relief to the monotonous level. In one of the ravines, a tree, protruding some ten feet from a bank, was discovered ; it proved to be four feet in circumference. In its neighbourhood, several others were seen, all of them, be it remarked, of the same description as that found on Cape Manning. A second tree measured four feet in the round by thirty feet in length, and a third two feet ten inches round. Several pieces u 3 i 294 EGLINTON ISLAND. were sawn off as specimens and fire wood. In appearance, Mr. Dean, our carpenter, declares it resembles larch, but in weight it bore a stronger resemblance to lignum vitsB, or iron wood ; the additional weight was imparted by the soddened state in which it was found. When comparatively dry, it was tried as fuel, but its virtue had gone ; it threw out little or no flame, but smouldered rather than burnt, like so much tinder. The position of this decayed forest (for three trees in this country, I consider entitled to the distinc- tion) was, by supposition, about 400 feet above the level of the sea, being on the first step (descend- ing) of the plateau, considered to be between 500 and 600 feet elevation. The trees were found in lat. 76° 12' N., long. 122° W., near the head of Walker Inlet. After picking up their dep6t at Cape Cam, the party proceeded to the N.W., intending to prosecute a search along the coast in that direction. But to the greatdisappointmentof Mecham,he found a cairn in lat. 76° 15' N., long. 119° 20' W., wich a record left by Commander M'Clintock, who had attained this spot from the N.W. Mecham now steered for the N. point of Eglinton Island, where further information was obtained of Commander M*Clin- REINDEER AND WOLVES. 295 tock's movements*, and with great reluctance steered along the coast towards Cape Russell (the S.W. point of Melville Island), where he arrived on the 14th June. Water was first observed this day; the crew, as the sledge neared the land, wading knee-deep through the pools. In a little cove near the Cape, they found a piece of drift wood (fir), about eight feet long, which they used for fuel, though weather-worn, and in some places decayed. The heart of the wood proved to be sound, and gave forth a cheerful bright warm flame, that was pleasant to look at. Such was deemed a luxury, as the name of Comfort Cove was assigned to the spot. Here traces of rein deer were observed, and a pack of wolves seen making to the west- ward. Whilst rounding Cape Russell, the left runner of the sledge was broken by a fall from a higli hummock. On the 18th June, Cape Smyth was reached. Vvhen about four or five miles to the westward^ Lieut. Mecham observed several animals in a broad * Following down the east side, another cairn was found, about midway between the north and south points, with a note stating that both sides of the channel had been visited by CoLimander M'Clintock. Mecham now crossed the channel to Ibbfttt's Bn,y. H 296 "a KARA AVIS." ! ravine between the high lands skirting the sea. One being white, he supposed to be a bear ; but on approaching within 150 yards, the animal proved to be a vara avis indeed, being no other than a white musk-cow, with a young black calf, about four months old, grazing beside her. A ship's length apart, another cow and calf, both black, were also grazing. On approaching, Mecham took his spyglass, in order to make sure of the fact, for he, in common with all on board, had never heard of the existence of such an animal. His view of the cow was most satisfactory ; there were the horns, legs, and hoofs, so that it was impossible to be mistaken. Before he came within the desired distance, the whole four animals made off, and ascended a steep hill with the agility of cats. Pursuing his course to the eastward, along the N. shore of ^ vldon's Gulf, they arrived at Bushnan's Cove, "Uiit the remnants of Parry's cart, left in 1820, were found, as also a record of Commander M'Clintock, who had visited the Coye, fi'om Captain Austin's Expedition, in 1851, During the time they were in Liddon's Gulf, they were obliged to regulate their journeys by the tides, like river navigation by ships, with this difference, viz., when the flood made, they were obliged to encamp, in consequence of the depth of the pools and the RETURN ON BOARD "RESOLUTE." 297 slippery surface of the ice, which was of an old date. The water affected the feet of all, particularly the ankles, which were obliged to be bandaged. At their autumn dep6t, they found a cart, provisions, leather boots, and a budget of news, which had been transported across the land by Mr. Nares. Great difficulty was experienced in crossing the land, in consequence of the deep rapids that rushed through the ravines. On one occasion, cart and men were carried away by a torrent, waist deep. This, and similar accidents, suggested portages ; for the men, when attached to the cart, were almost helpless in the water. No less than sixty-four (working) hours were employed in carry- ing these articles, during which time they only advanced twenty-two miles. No game was seen whilst crossing; but on their reachinfr Winter Harbour, Mecham shot three young bucks. On their arrival on board, all were in good bodily health, though the feet remained tender for many days. One man, Nisbet, had lost sight of his right eye since the 10th of June. Lieut. Mecham, after bearing testimony to the able assistance of Mr. Nares, and the admirable conduct of the men, throughout a prolonged and arduous journey of ninety-four days, concludes his remarks as follows : { * > 1 m ■■ I M y 298 ACCOUNT OF GAME KILLED. ^ i 1 LM " In conclusion, I beg to state, that besides the absence of traces, being a negative proof that the missing crew have not visited any part of the land discovered during this journey, I have further to add, that the character and appearance of the pack driven against the land, and in every dir^'ction to seaward, thoroughly convinces me of tlie im- possibility of penetrating with ships to the south- ward and westward, against such tremendous im- pediments." Rain was first observed June 21st, and lasted for five hours. Game procured on the Journey. Datei and Localitiei. • o >: % •o H 1 S is s 1 1 £ n 1 it B 1- ■'1 i s. Pk Lemmingi. On Melville Island, during the month of April, and from June nth to July 6th, inclusive Eglinton Island, May 2nd to 4th, and June 8th and 9th - Prince Patrick Land, between May 7th and June 6th Total number ob- tained 4 4 4 3 7 ]5 1 16 15 6 20 41 5 5 2 2 2 2 2 2 Innu- merable. c^ 9) 4' ft ha 3 0! U B to ■3)«ai!)83 uu lojoj o) snoaauinu ooj, c\ 91 3 Q 9* •* •n r< m ta 00 S S « n i-i W (N CI n M -< CO (N 04 so 91 l-< ^ r-< •* 91 "8 « pq c 2 i S 3 _rr a iS s s i< ^ s t3 s a a s a >n IM 00 (M o o Pk o ^ ^ n. r>. t>. " a* »■pq0O7ppp',■~^-^«.l7'9^' M t>.(MOt^Oooi-«^r^t>'t>'t»t>-e<3Tfii>.» 1— 1 ^M rH Officers' Names. Lieut. Pim - - - Dr. Domville - - Mr. Roche - - - Captain Kellett Com. M'Clintock - M. De Bray - - - Lieut. Mecbam - - Mr. Nares - - - Lieut. Hamilton - Mr. Roche - - - Lieut. Hamilton - Mr. M'Dougall - Dr. Domville - - Mr. Roche - - - Mr. Nares - - - Lieut. Pim - - - Mr. M'Dougall - - ) ■72-4503 4^ 306 SITUATION OP THE "RESOLUTE. »> ^* ^ about half a mile broad, the weather edge of which was rapidly breaking up by the combined efforts of wind and sea ; the latter in the clear water was now considerable, as was apparent from the in- creased undulation of the ice. At 1 p. m. the " In- trepid " was ordered to " get up steam," in the hope of hfcr being able to tow us round the weather- edge of the floe, when the wind ^fi-om N.N.W.) would have been favourable for the ship's intended easterly course. Beating against such a strong breeze, — or rather gale, — was quite out of the question, even with the assistance of the strong flood-tide, which was now setting to the westward with sufficient velocity to prevent the ship being wind-rode. Shipping the rudder, we awaited the "Intrepid's " assistance ; but ere her steam was up, the point of the floe broke adrift, and she passed astern of us. We now perceived the floe had been coach wheeling (turning round) with the sun, thus bringing the ships more on the weatMfer edge. Seeing the ad- vantages to be derived from this event, we strained every nerve to force her along the edge of the floe, through loose pieces which had congregated against the weather side. But blasting and heaving availed us but little, and after much useless exertion we were i AT SRA ONCE MORE. 307 jd id re compelled to desist, and await our liberation by the continued movement of the ice. As the barometer had fallen in an inverse ratio to the wind, its fluc- tuations were closely watched, and we had the pleasure of perceiving an evident rising during the afternoon. At eight, the gale having subsided somewhat in violence, we again commenced heaving and blast- ing through the border of loose ice hampering the ship, assisting her occasionally with the sails. At 9' 15 she cleared the last piece of ice, and once more gracefidly rose and fell to the disturbed sea, the strange unusual motion causing unpleasant sensa- tions to those most susceptible of sea-sickness. About this time we caught occasional glimpses of the land about Points Palmer and Ross, which enabled us to steer a course along the coast ; for, as I have before observed, the compasses were worse than useless. The " Intrepid " cleared the ice a short time after us, and soon joined 'company, we being under very easy sail. Soundings every half hour from thirty-three to forty fathoms. Friday^ 19^A, at 1 a.m., just as sail had been made, and all were in high spirits with such a splendid run in prospective, for no ice had been X 2 I '^r , .-r.-iti.'ST^^TSTS 308 BRIGHT PKOSPECTS NOT REALISED. observed to bar our progress up to this period, a block was announced from the crow's-nest, extend- ing from Point Griffiths to the southward, being a part of the main pack, now about one mile on our lee beam, and about six from the land. As repining was useless, nothing remained but to assume a philosophical indifference about the event, which, by the bye, was truly only an assump- tion with many. We now shortened sail, wore, and hove-to on the other tack, awaiting the desired change. At four we again stood towards the eastward, and reached mid-channel between Point Griffiths and Byam Martin Island, where the stubborn ice again arrested our further progress, and obliged us to lower our flag to such an invincible enemy. The remainder of the day was employed in working to the northward, along the pack edge in Byam Martin Channel. Saturday, lOth, — Calm, foggy weather, with oc- casional clearings. At 9*30 a.m. "Intrepid" took ship in tow, and proceeded to the northward, along the pack edge. At 2 P.M. the termination of the water to the northward was perceived from the crow's-nest, and at six we secured to a floe piece, in sixty fathoms. mm FORTY FATHOMS TO TWELVE. 309 US the dense fog and drizzling rain which pre- vailed prevented our descrying objects beyond 100 yards. The breeze was now from the S. E. ; but as there was ice between us and the land, we were not uneasy at its close proximity, more particularly as the soundings during the day had been such as to lead us to look for a moderately steep shore. At 1030 we had decreased our water to forty fathoms, and suddenly to eleven and twelve fathoms (mud). At this time there was but one course to pursue, and that was to shift our berth to the end of the lead we were now in, distant about half a mile ; there make fast, and await the result. This was accordingly done, and by midnight the ship was again secured in twenty -three fathoms, the ice slowly but surely surrounding her. The uneven nature of the ground, and continued foggy weather, made us rather anxious about our position, which at noon was supposed to be about five miles N.E. of Consett Head. The soundings during the forenoon varied from seventeen to twenty fathoms (mud). At 2 P.M. the fog to the westward lifted for a few minutes, enabling us to catch a transient glimpse of the shore (Melville Island), about two miles dis- tant. This was quite near enough, under the prc- X 3 310 SHORTEN BYAM MARTIN ISLAND. sent circumstances ; but we had the satisfaction of perceiving sufficient ice between us and the beach, to prevent any danger of touching the ground. Our assumed position was not far out. In this helpless state, beset in a driving pack, we drifted slowly to the southward, under the influence of a N.N.W. wind, at an average distance of one mile and a half to two miles from the shore. At 11 P.M. on Monday, I left in a cutter to sound between the ship and the shore. I found the bottom very irregular, not unlike the undulating nature of the ground skirting the sea. Our sound- ings from the ship were 12, 11^, 11, 10, 9, 8, 7 J, 11, 13, 15, and then a gradual shoaling to 2^ fathoms alongside the grounded ice, about 100 yards from the beach. Several flocks of ducks and one or two seals were observed. Taking advantage of our varied positions, as we drifted about the channel, we were enabled to cor- rect the coast line between Consett Head and Point Griffiths; as also the tangents of Byam Martin Island, whose north point appears to be laid down about eleven miles too far north. This, supposing Cape Gillman to be correct, would shorten the island that distance. During the evening of the 23rd, a considerable OFF POINT GRIFFITHS. 311 « body of water was observed to the southward and eastward of Point Griffiths, and at 7 a.m. on Wednesday, observing that the water off the point had increased during the night, the " Intrepid " was ordered to get up steam, and before eight she had us in tow, proceeding to the southward, be- tween the pack and the shore. The morning was beautifully clear, without a breath of wind: the pack appeared loose and disconnected altogether in many places, and we were all in high spirits with the hope of being able to push through the pack, as far as Cape Gillman. After passing Point Griffiths, we edged away to the S.E., towards an indentation in the pack. As we approached, the prospect to the eastward looked less cheering than heretofore ; for although a de- tached lane of water of considerable length existed about mid-channel, the means of approaching it were indirect and circuitous, entailing our pushing through the pack, which, though still loose, was, on a closer inspection, much more compact than we had imagined. The Captain therefore decided on casting off, and awaiting a more decided change, in order to avoid the possibility of being beset in a driving pack. At this time, about 1 p.m., we had a light breeze X 4 812 EXTRAORDINARY ICE-BLINK. from the S.W., and we worked up for Point Griffiths under easy sail. At 4 p.m. I left, to sound along the floe edge extending between Point Griffiths and a low point to the northward five miles distant. The bay between the points was from one and a half to two miles deep. The floe was about five feet thick, and had evidently borne considerable pressure, if one might judge from the masses of ice thrown up in all directions. As was supposed previous to leaving the ship, I found quite sufficient water (from thirteen to eight fathoms) along the fast ice, which quite filled the little bay, its outer edge forming nearly a straight line from point to point. As night came on, we again had dull misty weather, with but little wind. Towards 8 p.m. I witnessed the most extraordinary ice-blink I had ever seen ; its appearance was most deceptive, for although we knew that, in certain directions, we were not within miles of the ice, the blink appeared so bright as to induce some to imagine we were within a few hundred yards of the pack. During the night we kept off and on, between the point and pack. 313 CHAP. XIII. Anecdotes of Lemmings. — Death of Three Musk-Oxen. — Detention at Point Griffiths. — Ten Musk-Oxen killed. — Capture of Four young Foxes (alive). — Skating on the Ice. — Provision " Intrepid." — Ship arrested by Sludge Ice. — Return to Point Griffiths. — Musk-Ox Hunt.— " Intrepid" leaves to examine state of Ice. — Join " Intrepid " to the East- ward. — Ship beset in young Ice. — Tremendous Squall. — Heavy Gale. — Vessel driven to the Southward. — Ship sustains considerable Pressure. — Vessel drifting in the Pack. — Pre- paring for second Winter. — Vessel on the Magnetic Meridian. — Build a Snow Wall around the Vessel. H : .i Thursday^ 26th August^ 4 a.m., wind fresh from S.W.; thick misty weather; rrn in, and secured to land ice in eight fathoms, " Lii repid " in company. In the course of the afternoon, the pack closing, the " Resolute " was shifted round a projecting tongue of the floe, and secured with stream chain and large anchor. Pack moving up Byam Martin Channel, leaving the ship in a pool, but surrounded by small detached pieces of ice. Friday J 2Qth. — During the middle watch, the » , 1 1 I I • \ 314 ANECDOTES OF LEMMINGS. officep on deck was amused by watching the gambols of a lemming close to the ship. After a series of extraordinary antics, the little animal deliberately leaped into the water, and apparently enjoyed the bath, for it repeated the operation several times. This was something new to us, for, up to this time, we had supposed lemmings could not take the water with impunity; for many others, as well as myself, on our return to the ship, late in the season, observed scores of dead lemmings in pools on the floe, from which facts we had arrived at the conclusion of their having been drowned. Several amusing anecdotes are told of this little creature by the officers of the various travelling parties. Lieut. Mecham observes, that, on one oc- casion, Buffer (an Esquimaux dog) was trudging along, nose to the ground, quite unconscious of danger, when a lemming, suddenly starting from its cavern, seized poor Buffer by the nose, inflicting a severe wound. The dog, astounded at such an un- expected assault, gave a dismal howl, and at length shook the enemy off; after which he became the attacking party, and, in less than a minute, the im- prudent lemming disappeared between the jaws of the Tartar he had attempted to catch. ANECDOTES OF LEMMINGS. 315 My own experience of those industrious litlle warriors tended to prove they possessed a strange combination of sociality and combativeness. In- dustrious they most certainly are, as is proved by the complicated excavation of their subterranean cities ; besides which, every feather and hair, of bird and animal, found in the vicinity of their dwellings is made to contribute its iota of warmth and com- fort to the interior of their winter quarters. I had many opportunities of watching their movements during my detention at Winter Harbour. My tent happened to be pitched imme- diately over one of their large towns, causing its inhabitants to issue forth from its thousand gates to catch a view of the strangers. Frequently, on waking, we have found the little animals, rolled up in a ball-like form, snugly ensconced within the folds of our blanket bags ; nor would they be ex- pelled from such a warm and desirable position without showing fight. On several occasions, I observed Naps (the dog) fast asleep, with one or two lemmings huddled away between his legs, like so many pups. On Friday afternoon seven musk-oxen were seen near the beach. During this as well Si6 the three following days, the pack rendered any attempt to f| 31(i DEATH OF TlIIiEE MUSK-OXEN. move to the eastward useless. On Saturday 1 obtained lat. 75" G' 57" N., long. 10G° 5' 15" W. The variation proved to be 152° E. Mo7iday^ 5 I'.M — Lieuts. Mccham and Piin, with six men and a sledge, left to attempt the slaughter of the musk-oxen. Shortly after they landed, we saw two out of a herd of five fall beneath the fire of the party ; and at 10 p.m. they returned with the carcasses of three musk-oxen and four hares : tlie weight of beef amounted to 302 pounds. Ducks, geese, and ptarmigan were observed ; the ground formed good pasturage, and there is little doubt but these quarters would prove to be good hunting- grounds. It was on this occasion that our dogs proved themselves to be possessed of a greater share of sagacity than they were supposed to possess. On the arrival of the party with the carcasses, the dogs set off for the shore, at the distance of one mile and a quarter, and on their return, about an hour afterwards, showed evident signs of having feasted on the offal of the slaughtered animals. Thursday, 30^A — At 10.30 a.m. the " Intrepid" slipped, with a light breeze from N.N.W., and stood out to have a closer inspection of the pack than could be obtained from our crow's-nest ; the young DETENTION AT POINT GinFFITlIS. 317 »> »g ice nlongsitle proved to be tliree inches thick. The Captain and several officers landed during the forenoon, returning ut 2 r.M. with fifteen ptar- migan : many more were seen. The " Intrepid " ran in, ond secured at 10 p.m. Wednesday^ 31s^ — Calm and fine. Pack from the crow's-nest appeared much slacker than we have yet seen it ; ten musk-oxen and four hares were seen. A party was despatched to secure the former. With the aid of our telescope we saw the slaughter from the ship, and immediately forwarded three sledges, and twenty-five men, to the scene of action, for the carcasses. At six the party re- turned, bringing with them the whole of the ten animals seen this morning ; the weight of meat pro- cured amounting to 1590 pounds. Strange to say, they had all fallen within thirty yards of each other. Two hares, two ravens, and several boat- swain birds were also brought on board by some of the officers, who had landed for a few hours* sport. Thursday^ 1st September. — Calm and fine. Pros- pect of release not improved ; twenty more musk- oxen were observed (to the S.W.) from the crow's- nest, but they were too distantto detach a party under present circumstances. We now began to entertain 318 CAPTURE OF FOUR YOUNG FOXRS (ALIVE). doubts whether or not we would succeed in reaching Beechey Island, for the ice was quite as compact in the channel as the day we first sighted it. Some of us, however, more sanguine than others, hoped the next spring-tides would cause a change in the ice, and enable us to effect our liberation. Twenty- three ptarmigan were procured this day. Friday^ 2nd. — Early this morning, a couple of musk-oxen w^ere seen quietly grazing near the beach to the S.W. Mecham and Domville went in pursuit about 7 a.m., and at nine we saw the animals killed from the ship. This proved to be one of the finest and warmest days we had ex- perienced for some time ; but, alas ! the ice to the eastward remained as impenetrable as heretofore. At 1 P.M., the carcasses of the musk-oxen arrived, weighing 340 lbs., which may be considered as a fair average during the autumnal months. This is considerably above the average throughout the year, which is imagined to be about 160 lbs. Twenty-one ptarmigan also fell victims to the rangers of the day. An old she-fox, with six of her young cubs, was surprised by Mr. Dean, who killed the old fox, and captured four out of the six young ones. Saturday f Srd — Light westerly air. Ice in offing SKATING ON THE ICE. 319 Ir lo to the eastward much slackened since yesterday. At 9 A.M. a lane of water was seen about mid- channel, the pack between it and our position ap- parently being sufficiently slack to reach the lauo without any great difficulty. At 10*15 made sail to single reefed topsails, and top-gallantsails ; slipped and ran down to a bight in the pack, nearest the above-mentioned water. We found the lanes and pools had closed con- siderably. Made fast to the pack edge, awaiting a change. The pools on the ice were now strong enough for skating, and all the skates were put in active service. Sunday^ 4:th, — A light easterly air caused the pack to close with the shore. At 1*30 p.m. cast off from pack edge ; ran in and secured to land floe near our former position, at the edge of the fast ice. A seal was shot during the first watch. Tuesday^ 5th. — The wind, early this morning, gradually increased to a strong breeze from the S.W., with a dull, gloomy, threatening sky ; and as it required no prophet to foretell the approach of bad weather, the stream chain and large anchor were got out in addition to the hawsers. During the forenoon, all hands were employed V I 320 PROVISION '* INTREPID." Ji, completing the " Intrepid " with provisions up to 1st April, 1854, a precautionary measure adopted by the Captain in the event of our parting company. The pack edge, during the day, moved slowly off to the eastward. The weather cleared as the evening advanced, and at eight the pack edge was just visible from the spike plank. Anticipating a movement early in the morning, the rudder was shipped during the first watch, in order to be in readiness. Wednesday^ 1th. — At eight slipped and ran down before a strong N.W. breeze to the pack edge, and skirted it along to the southward, until we had satisfied ourselves that no " lead " existed to the eastward. We then stood to the northward, without perceiving any opening. The wind had now increased, with occasionally heavy squalls, one of which carried away our jib-sheet pendant. About 3 P.M. we again secured to the floe, in our old position of the 1st inst.: weather boisterous, with a heavy drift during the evening. Friday, ^th. — At 1*30 a.m. slipped from the floe, and stood to the eastward under double-reefed topsails and topgallantsails. At 2-15 the ship was brought up by a mass of sludge, several inches MUSK-OX HUNT. 321 le \V thick, supposed to be the accumulation of yester- day's drift. It effectually arrested our progress, and it was not without some difficulty, even with the assistance of the steam tender, that the ship was extricated. At 6 '30 A.M. the land floe was again reached; at nine we shifted to position of yesterday. During the forenoon, no fewer than thirty-five musk-oxen, in different herds, were observed at one time from the crow's-nest. At noon, a party consisting of Mecham, Haswell, Miertsching, and myself, accompanied by two men, — making in all twelve barrels, — landed in the cutter to go in pursuit of the nearest herd of seven oxen, quietly grazing abreast of the ship. As this was the first opportunity I had of killing any musk-oxen, I shall not apologise for giving an enlarged account of the afternoon's sport. On landing, word was given to the boat's crew to follow, but to keep well in the rear, to avoid fright- ening the animals. On our approach, the herd congregated closely together in line, with their heads towards us, the calves being in the centre. We now spread out our little force into the form of a crescent, and advanced in open order to within about twenty yards* of our prey. A little shuffling Y i % 330 PREPARING FOR SECOND WINTER. drain through Lancaster Sound, by the exit of the ice into Baffin's Bay. I intend a few pages on showing in a tabulated form our drift since entering the ice. Thick dense fogs and dirty weather generally prevailed throughout the month, caused no doubt, by the exhalations arising from the numerous cracks and pools around the ship. Tuesday^ 20th Commenced preparations for a second winter, by unreeving running rigging, send- ing down top-gallant yards, and unbending flying- jib and trysails. Wednesday J 21st. — By good observations for latitude and longitude, found ourselves on the me- ridian of Cape Gillman, distant thirty-three miles, having drifted within the last two days, S.E., eight miles. Soundings were obtained each watch, and proved the bottom to be very irregular. Sunday, 26th. — Wind from the southward again set the ice in motion, it did not however effect the ship, now firmly fixed in an icy cradle, formed by layers of young ice being detained under her bottom, to the depth of twenty feet, as was ascer- tained when digging a fire-hole close to the port beam. r • \ ' PREPARING FOR SECOND WINTER. 331 This day a lane fonned, N.W. by N. and S.E. by S., several miles in length, and from ten to twenty feet broad, the nearest part being thirty yards from the ship. Monday, 26fA September. — The boats were lowered on the ice, slung bottom up, and again secured to their respective davits for the winter ; the object of keeping them in this position was to prevent snow from accumulating in them. Ridge spars were secured aloft the next day (thir- teen feet from the deck), and the side spars (studding sail booms), lashed fore and aft, eight feet from the deck. The centre spars were the two hand masts, for main and quarter-deck housings ; whilst the spanker-boom served for the same purpose abaft. Our head being to the southward, we prepared for nailing down the housing abaft, leaving an opening forward, northerly winds being expected to prevail. I have omitted to state that the top- gallant masts were sent on deck, and mizen-top- mast housed ; stays and backstays being secured, in order to prevent noise during boisterous weather. On the 12th of this month, the rudder was un- shipped, and secured across the stern. The fore and after parts of the upper deck were now snowed in, to the depth of nine inches on the TTjgm^PismmniitBmgm 332 PREPARING FOR SECOND WINTER. starboard side, increasing to nearly two feet on the port side, in order to have a level surface ; the ship? as I have before stated, having a list to port of about 5°. On the surface of the snow was placed a layer of arctic cement, composed of water, snow, cinders, and gravel, well mixed together, until the ingre- dients attained the consistency of thick sludgy ice. When hard enough, hawsers, and casks from main hold, as well as summer hatches, and various other articles, were stowed for the winter. The weather on the whole, during the past month, has been very thick, damp, and misty, the temperature however, has been moderate, which may be attributed to the proximity of the water. Since the cessation of the gale on the 10th, we have experienced nothing stronger than a moderate breeze, and in all probability we will not have so much wind the ensuing winter, as we were favoured with at Dealy Island, where both the direction and force, were no doubt influenced by local causes. October set in with strong breezes, and a heavy fall of snow ; the wind in the course of the day fluctuated considerably, veering from S.E. round by W. to N.N.W. On the 6th, the pack on the other side of the crack (which had opened and closed alternately for the last few days) now began SHIP ON THE MAGNETIC MERIDIAN. 333 to move slowly to the northward, but without any great effect, save the crushing and grinding, of the edges of the opposing floes. The thickness of the ice this day, by actual measurement, proved to be sixteen inches. The following day, the Gth, weather beauti- fully fine and clear, enabled me to obtain good ob- servations for latitude, longitude, and variation ; the results obtained were as follows, viz : — lat. 74° 29' 25'' N., long. 102° 9' 30" W. ; variation, 179° 40' 0" W. Confident as I am of the observations, and computation, I think this position may fairly be taken as a point in the magnetic meridian. The crack this day opened thirty feet. On the 10th a strong gale sprung up from E.S.E., with heavy squalls and drift, setting the ice in motion close to the ship. The following day the gale arrived at its height, and blew a perfect hurricane between 10 a.m. and noon, after which it gradually moderated, the wind shifting at 4 r. m. to S.S.W. ; the barometer at this time 29*08 began to rise rapidly. The soundings having gradually decreased, gave us reason to imagine we had made considerable northing ; this supposition was verified on Thursday, 13th, when, at 10*30 a.m., land was observed, bearing W. by N. (true). Our observa- 334 BUILD SNOW WALL AROUND SHIP. tions this day placed us in lat. 75° 4' 17" N., long. 102° 33' W. ; so that since the 10th, when we were in lat. 74° 34', and about the same long., we have been drifted N. ^ W. thirty miles. This day, com- menced banking up around the ship. The snow wall was five feet thick ; outer side, four feet in height, and sloping from thence to the ice chock. The outer parts were neatly built of blocks of young ice, placed with line and plummet ; the space then filled in with loose snow, which by actual experiment, has been found to increase the tempe- rature of the ship's side by nearly 30°. This in- crease of heat is not the only advantage, for an additional degree of dryness necessarily follows ; so that one comfort, dependent in a measure on those two essential points, is ensured. i 335 CHAP. XIV. Attempts to ascertain Daily Drift. — Arctic Sculpture. — Main Deck Housing secured. — Cover Upper Deck with a layer of Snow, &c.— Death and Burial of Poor Sainsbury. — Winter Lectures commenced by Domville. — o Lyrae (Vega), 1st May, seen at Noon. — The Theatre. — Domville's Second Lecture. — Studious Character of the Crew. — Moonlight. — Christmas Day in the Arctic Regions. — Christmas Dinner in the Gun-Room. — Electric Telegraph ; its Successful Working. — New Year's Day. — The Lost Man. Although the weather was somewhat misty on the 14th October, we observed for the first time the range of heavy hummocks on the shoal discovered by Sir Edward Parry, at least we supposed them to be the same, from their position ; and from the fore- top, lanes and pools of water, extended as far as the eye could reach in all directions; whilst from an unmistakeable water sky, in the direction of Cape Cockburn, we imagined a considerable body of water existed in that quarter. Our soundings during the forenoon had decreased to forty-eight fathoms. n n^^'^is^s^ 336 ATTEMPTS TO ASCERTAIN DAILY DRIFT. It is a strange, and somewhat anomalous cir- cumstance, that notwithstanding the fury of the late gale, and the rapidity with which we had been driven to the northward, we on board the ship did not experience the slightest motion; indeed save the alternate opening and closing, of the crack beside us, we observed no appearance of any movements in the main body of ice. On Sunday, 16th, we again obtained observations that could be relied on : the result placed us in lat. 75° r 41" N., long. 102° 25' 30'' W. Cape Cockburn E. 5°, N. thirty-two miles. This would give a drift of about three miles in a S.S.E. direction in three days ; this agreed with supposition. Several methods have been attempted to ascertain the daily drift, but in my opinion all failed. One, though simple, was ingenious, and theoretically correct, but practically not so, at least, in my opinion. I shall attempt to describe the process. The deep-sea line with two leads attached, gave the perpendicular height from the bottom (say sixty fathoms), the line was then veered away, say 100 fathoms, which formed the hypotheneuse of a right- angled triangle, the bottom, of course, being the base. With the perpendicular and hypotheneuse, the value of the base (or distance drifted) can ARCTIC SCULPTURE. 337 easily be computed ; the direction was ascertained by eye. My reason for placing no reliance on this method is as follows : — the ice during the pressure of the ship had, as I have before remarked, doubled under the ship's bottom to the distance of twenty feet; and I maintain it to be impossible to ascertain the course of the drift within four points, by a line dragging against the always ragged ice, at the bottom of a hole twenty feet deep, by four or five feet square. Had we a. larger surface of water to work on, then I am willing to admit the usefulness of the operation. With respect to the distance, the results are, I believe, more defective than the direction ; for I have — by actual experiment — repeatedly found that the ragged ice beneath the surface often held the line at the marhs, and thus prevented its paying out. During the month snow pillars were erected be- tween the two ships, in order to guide the wayfarer across the floe ; several of them were converted into statues by the knives of the men, and in one - -a grotesque caricature of one of themselves — in order to increase the resemblance, they placed black buttons for the eyes; and an old pair of boots made the figure perfect. z V' 338 SHIP MOVING SOUTHWARD. t <' ■4, f I t. f During this month, several corks of the lime- juice bottles had been forced out by the action of frost. On examination, no less than forty eight, pounds were found deficient. The cases containing these bottles were stowed in gravel ballast, which we thought would at least have retained sufficient heat to prevent the loss of lime-juice bursting; such, however, was not the case. I would therefore suggest that lime-juice, pickles, cranberries, and other stores, likely to be injured by frost, should be removed to a safe place of stowage as winter approaches. By observations, on the 21st and 22nd, we found we were slowly moving due south ; this was annoy- ing, as our chances of being released, decreased with our movement in that diicction. On the 23rd, we saw Byam Martin Island for the last time. On the 26th, by meridian altitude of D lat. 74° 48' 22'' N., long, by Capella, 101° 23' 45" W., led me to think we might see Cape Cockbum if the day proved fine. Scarcely had I finished my calcula- tions when I was informed that land could be seen in the N. E. quarter; it proved to be, as I anticipated, Cape Cockburn. This was the more satisfactory, as it tended to prove that little or no deviation had occurred in the rate of the chronometers, since the / * MAIN DECK HOUSING SECl IlKD. 33- middle of August ; the last time I hud been enabt^P^ to obtain an accurate rate. A portion of the last week in October was occu- pied in making a snow depot along the starboard side, in readiness for snowing the deck. When not otherwise employed, the men amused themselves (although the temperature was at times as low as — 15°), by playing rounders on the ice, an occu- pation which kept them sufficiently warm to enjoy the sport, as it required continued running. On the last day of the month, the main deck housing was hauled over and secured, as snowing the deck was to commence on the morrow ; the quarter- deck was however left uncovered, as there was yet a little light during the day, and this would be of assistance to the men employed about the deck, whilst the housing over main deck would afford shelter from the wind. The mean temperature of the past month, when compared with that of 1852, shows an increase of heat in favour of this year ; these were as follows : 1852 — 0°*5 mean, for the month of October. 1853 -f 4°-6 ditto, ditto. This difference was appreciable to the feelings, and the increased mean, or rise, this year, had been predicted ere the month drew to a close. z 2 340 UrrER DECK COVEUED WITH SNOW. (« Tuesdai/y Nov. "ist. — Commenced snowing tlic upper deck to the depth of seven inches ; this was covered with a layer of cement, an inch thick, con- sisting, ns I have said, of snow, gravel, and cinders, well mixed together ; which in the course of a few hours becomes hardened by the action of the cold, nnd so remains throughout the winter. The ship, as I have before stated, had a list of several de- grees to port ; the snow on that side of the deck was therefore raised to a level with the starboard side, in order to make the surface horizontal. On the 2nd, a breeze from the N.N.W. gradually increased, until the 4th, when it blew a brisk gale with considerable drift. On the 5th it subsided, and I was enabled to obtain observations for fixing our position, which — by subsequent sights — wns proved to be our winter quarters ; lat. by Altair, 74° 41' 18'' N., long. 101° 17' 15" W. On the 12th I again obtained sights, which gave the lat. 74° 41' 53" N., and long. 101° 22' 06' AV., the latter being the mean of five (box) chronometers; the pocket watches I did not include, as I had no reliance on their regularity. Sun last seen on the 6th. Up to this period poor Sainsbury of the " In- vestigator" had been gradually growing weaker V T // DEATH AND BURIAL OF I'OOU SAINSBURY. 311 every day, nnd for weeks past he was aware of his approaching end. Thanks to the kind, humane, and Christian spirit disphiyed by Drs. Doiaville and Piers, his path to the grave was smoothed, his heart became softened to each and all of us, and he was enabled to look forward, through faith in his Saviour's redeeming grace, to being received into the kingdom of God. Poor fellow ! his body presented a dreadfully emaciated appearance. Jle lingered, it is hoped and believed, without much pain, until half an hour after midnight on the 14th, when he expired without a struggle. On the 16th, the few preparations required were completed •, the funeral service was read on board, in a most impressive manner, by Captain Kellett, and the mournful procession then wended its way to the grave, a hole in the ice, about 250 yards from the ship. The day was cold ( — 20°), and mi&ty, and never shall I forget the scene on the ice, as the body, sewn in canvas, with weights attached, was launched through the narrow opening, and disap- peared to our view. Within an hour. Nature had placed an icy slab over the grave of our departed messmate. On the 1 9 th Nov. the quarter-deck housing was z 3 \\ 342 Dli. DOMVILLE S LECTURE. .^V. f .^t: II hauled over and secured, conveying a considerable degree of warmth, both below and on deck. Ven- tilators were fitted in various places, to allow the escape of vapour from the deck below, and other minor but necessary arrangements, too numerous to mention in detail, were completed. On the 21st, a remarkable elliptical halo — an unusual phenomenon — occurred during the middle watch. The moon at the time was nearly on the upper meridian ; the major axis was horizontal, and measured 52°, having a paraselena at each extremity ; the shorter axis measured 42° without any paraselena ; but the upper arch of the halo presented a feathery appearance, resembling the corruscations of an aurora. Some little time past a few of the men ex- pressed a wish to Dr. Domville that he, and one or two of the other officers, should kindly read them a paper, original or otherwise, written in a simple and popular manner, by which they might improve their minds during the ensuing winter ; he readily assented, and mentioned the subject to me. I at once entered into the scheme, although I felt my inability to carry out as I could wish the object in view. Captain Kellett warmly supported the proceed- Safc. THE THEATRE. 313 ings, and the doctor, at seven this evening, read an original introductory paper on " Chemistry," the officers and crew of the " Resolute " in attendance. It was well received, and each and all felt obliged to the doctor for the trouble he had taken in the com- pilation of facts on such an interesting subject. Such a numerous audience astonished us all, for the original intention was to read the paper quietly in the sick bay to the few men who suggested the idea, but as all the crew wished to attend, the chests were arranged as for church, and the lower deck lighted up. Had Dr. Domville supposed for a moment that he would have been complimented by such a numerous and attentive audience, he would have extended the information to the " Intrepid.'' This is to be remedied next lecture night. Preparations for the theatre had been going on for some time ; the day named for the performance being the 30th inst. The play chosen by the men was an abridgment (by Garrick) which I happened to have, of Shakspeare's admirable comedy of " Taming the Shrew," whilst that of the officers was the popular farce of " The Two Bonny castles." Songs^ recitations, &c., were arranged to take place during the interregnum between theprincipal performances. z 4 a 344 a LYR^ SEEN. As the day drew near, every one was in a state of excitement. Dresses were required to be altered, chandeliers rigged, drop-scenes retouched. One of the figures ornamenting the proscenium had myste- riously disappeared, and required to be replaced. Wooden legs of mutton and guitars must be. manu- factured, and indeed the whole corps dramatique was in a state of the greatest anxiety as the day approached. On the 26th, a Lyras (Vega) was observed at noon, and at 5 p.m. a bright double arch of aurora was seen ; one passing through the zenith from east to west ; the other about 5° south of and parallel to it. At length the 30th, the eventful day, arrived, and the last rehearsal was concluded. At 6*30 p.m. the officers and crews began to assemble, and the upper deck was soon crowded with the arctic public. Although kept in suspense for some little time, the time passed pleasantly enough, thanks to the talented brass band in attendance. I have so often adverted to the perfection of theatrical arrangements in every department, that I am now really at a loss to find original words to describe the excellence of the tout ensemble, but I shall content myself by making the necessary observa- il I f f7 THEATRICAL PERFORMANCES. 345 tions as concise as possible. The trouble of " get- ting up " a theatre in these regions, can only be appreciated by those who have assisted in the pre- parations. The very f.ies had to be manufactured out of brass curtain rods, whilst a tin fiddle occu- pied the tinker for several days. The scenic arrangements were under the entire control of Mr. Dean, the carpenter, who fulfilled the trust reposed in him, to the surprise and admiration of all comprising the audience. For the last ten days his exertions had been unwearied ; the fifes, guitar, and leg of mutton were manufactured by him ; the latter, composed of wood and canvas, was acknowledged to be a chef-d^oeuvre. In addition to these, yards of magnificent point lace were made by cutting calico ; besides wigs of every description, shape, and colour, from the jet black (thread) locks of the lovely heroines, to the brown (oakum) wig of the testy old uncle. " Taming the Shrew " was in one of several volumes of plays, kindly presented to me by a friend. The characters were admirably supported throughout, and much to my surprise, the lan- guage was well delivered, and all appeared to enter into the spirit of the immortal bard. Then followed several amusing songs in character ; one in 346 CAPTAIN KELLETT'S HOSPITALITY. particular, " I'm ninety-five," being vociferously applauded ; the action, tone, and dress of Old Humphries, the marine, could not have been sur- passed. The performance of Mr. Bonnycastle (Krabb^), the acknowledged Buckstone of these regions, would have reflected credit on that talented co- median himself. Smuggins also — but no, it is un- necessary to go through the entire cast ; suffice it to say, that all were perfect. God save the Queen, and three times three, concluded the evening's .imusements, which were doubly enjoyed by the " Investigators." I must not forget to remark that Lieut. Hamilton, with his usual kindness, undertook the office of prompter. The officers, before separating, repaired to Captain Kellett's cabin, where ham and beef sandwiches, wine, punch, &c., were discussed ; these viands? with a cross-fire of animated conversation, agree- ably relieved by an occasional song from one of the vocalists of the party, formed a pleasant termina- tion to the entertainment of the night. This month, unlike the last, showed an increase of cold over that of last year, of no less than — 7°'4. Nov., 1852, mean temperature ~12°*7; Nov., 1853, -20M. . IT DK. DOMVILLE S SECOND LECTURE. 347 November has not been remarkable for the number or peculiarities of its phenomena, as will be seen on turning to the meteorological abstract. The month on the whole has been fine, more parti- cularly the nights, when the moon was in opposi- tion, and continually above the horizon. On December the 4th, I again obtained observa- tions that could be relied on ; and with them I decided the mean latitude of our position to be 74° 41' U" N. On the evening of the 5th, I had the honour to read the first of a series of papers on Arctic Exploration during the present century, to a numerous and attentive audience, composed of nearly every ofiicer and man in the Expedition. On the 7th, the thermometer was registered at —42°; but the mercury in a small test-tube re- mained unaff'ected; the following day, however, the mercury became solid, though the temperature had risen to 37° minus ; the fact of its not freezing I attribute to the slow withdrawal of the heat contained in the quicksilver itself; but cannot account for the absence of liquefaction when the temperature rose. Monday J 19th. — Dr. Domville read a second paper on chemistry ; the captain, officers, and crew 348 DR. DOMVILLE S SECOND LECTURE. f: forming an attentive audience. This lecture was infinitely more interesting and, I believe, instruc- tive than the last ; which I before observed, was only introductory. He described the component parts of the atmo- sphere, its weight, effect on human life, and many other interesting facts, in such r; clear and simple manner, that every one present must have under- stood him. His description of the common weather- glass, barometer, air-pump, all of which were drawn on a large scale of reference, assisted by several simple, but effective experiments (which were eminently successful), must, by his clear elucidation of the subject, have conveyed infor- mation not only to the seamen, but to every officer present. The presence of every man, and their atten- tion to the lecture, is very gratifying, as it proves the deep and sincere interest they take in acquir- ing knowledge. It was amusing to observe the varied expressions of delight, ambiguity, and wonder depicted on their faces. One fact, and an astounding one it was, that was mentioned, viz the enormous pressure of the atmosphere, amount- ing to no less than 32,000 lbs. on the body of a man, proved rather too much for Jack to swallow, ^^£a=j!::=r; STUDIOUS CHARACTER OF THE CREW. 349 as was evident by the general shuffle, doubtful shake of the head, meaning smiles, and raised eyebrows ; they evidently put this assertion down as a " mass of gammon." I thmk I have never yet observed such a studious body of men as are now on board the " Resolute." I have frequently walked round the deck of an evening for the express purpose of ascertaining their occupations, and have as frequently been gratified to find all employed ; most of them reading or writing (for many keep journals), whilst the minority are repairing clothes, and listening to one of their messmates, reading aloud from a library book, stumbling over the hard words, or leaving them out altogether to be filled up by the imagina- tion of his hearers. Navigation, music, and even drawing, have their votaries, and it would indeed be difficult to recognise, in the studious features of our ship's company, the British sailor of the present day with that described by Dibdin, or imitated by the T. P. Cooke school. It will readily be imagined, the pleasure we all experienced as the shortest day approached; every one longed for the termination of the dreary and disheartening darkness, and the return of the sun. I know nothing more depressing than being 350 MOONLIGHT. unable (as we frequently were) to distinguish night from day. But why repine ? Human nature is, and ever will be, frail and complaining. We are all apt to dwell on the privations, troubles, and petty annoyances of the moment ; forgetting the many blessings and pri- vileges we enjoy; and we cannot have a better exemplification of these feelings than in our own fitful expressions of impatience at our present position. It would be as well, whilst regretting the absence of the sun, if we were more frequently reminded of the goodness and omnipotence of the Almighty, as displayed in the disposal and motions of the heavenly bodies. Few of us, I am afraid, whilst gazing with admiration on the glorious orb of night, sufficiently appreciate her brightness as the effect produced by God's creative wisdom. Fewer still, whilst wondering at the novel but continued presence of that luminary, in all her majesty, above our horizon for a space of eight nights and days every month, recognise the ad- mirable arrangements of the great architect of the universe, by supplying, in some degree, the wants created by the absence of the sun ; for it must be remembered that it is only during the winter that the moon is above the horizon. AMUSEMENTS ON BOARD " INTREriD." 351 Although man has been endowed with intellect, sufficient to trace these effects to physical causes, it ought not — as it has too often done — withdraw mind the from Him^ but increase tenfold the feelings of devotion, admiration, and awe, which the contemplation of the heavenly bodies should invariably inspire. On the 21st, small print was read on the floe at 11 A.M. though not without difficulty. At 6 p.m. on the 22nd, the Captain, officers, and crew left to witness dramatic performances, legerdemain, and other amusements, on board the "Intrepid." I was not present myself; but, judging from the pleasure all derived, I imagine the entertainments must have gone off with considerable klat. On the fall of the curtain, the officers adjourned to the gun-room, where they were entertained by the " Intrepids," returning on board a little after 11 P.M. Christmas Day, with all its endearing associations, at length came round; cold, dark, and gloomy without, as became these inhospitable regions ; but within, the season gave rise to a warmer train of thought than usual. How delightful when fancy, that ever busy monitor, wafts one across the dreary wastes of snow, and transports us, as with a ma- 352 CHRISTMAS DAY IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS. gician's wand, into the presence of tliose dear absent friends, so necessary to our happiness, whom memory recalls as the principal authors of our past joys, and decks with all that hope could wish or fancy portray. I pity the man who is incapable of enjoying in its fullest sense such a train of reflec- tions ; of being unable to imagine, almost with the force of reality, the exchange of thoughts and feel- ings with those who are all in all to us. Such reveries are derived from the purest source of man's nature. For my own part I am willing to confess I en- courage and cultivate such ideas, and revel in scenes which memory recalls, or hope anticipates. Christmas Day on board a man-of-war is generally considered a holiday; and in most ships it is customary to make some slight addition to the usual supply of provisions, and in order that the men may the better enjoy themselves, the dis- cipline, even in the best regulated ships, is a little relaxed on this occasion ; i. e., they are allowed the use of the fire the previous night, and an extension of lights in the evening. Seamen are well known to possess great taste in decorations; and to a landsman, the effect pro- duced with a few materials is surprising. As a CHRISTMAS FESTIVITIES. 353 proof, take the appearance of a ball-room on the deck of a man-of-war, with bright lights, brilliant uniforms, and lovely faces ; and I will venture to assert that in scenic effect it would not only vie with, but eclipse, the noblest hall on shore. For days past preparations for Christmas festivities have employed all the spare time of the crew. Each mess boasted a chandelier, ornamented with paper flags, glass beads, and papar rosettes ; the latter formed out of bright coloured papering, the property of the theatre. As it was determined everything should undergo a change, the very candles were painted ; not one retained its original appearance. The scene on the lower deck, when dinner was spread, was imposing in appearance and gratifying in arrangement, illustrating as it did the brotherly feeling that reigned throughout our little world. The crew had arranged amongst themselves to amalgamate on this occasion, and form two messes, one on each side of, and extending the whole length of, the deck. The sides themselves, shelves, &c., were hidden by flags, against which were placed every available picture in the ship, besides several original cartoons, some emanating from the officers, others from the men themselves. As the A A 354 MR. NARES'S PAPERS ON WINDS. h pictures were not only numerous but good, the whole lormed a highly respectable gallery. Three chandeliers were suspended at equal distances over each table, and threw a brilliant light on the affair. The tables themselves were literally covered with roast-beef (musk-ox), beef-steak pies, preserved meats, bacon, plum puddings, apple and cranberry tarts, and, lastly, several jugs of " Richards's " home-brewed bfier, which, in addition to the nu- tritious qualities, possesses the taste of porter, and reflects much credit on Mr. Richards as a brewer. On the 28th, Mr. Nares (mate) read a paper on winds in general, descriptive of the cause and directions of land and sea breezes. His description of the trade winds was lucid and interesting, and must have conveyed no little amount of informa- tion to those of his hearers who could follow ; but I am inclined to think the reasoning was somewhat too complicated for the seamen. Considerable time and trouble must have been expended in its compila- tion, for which he well deserved the thanks which he received of the whole community. The last day of 1853 falling on a Saturday, it was determined to ask Captai.is Kellett and M'Clure to join us at dinner on that day, in preference to n I DINNER ON nOAMD THE "RESOLUTE." 355 the following day (Sunday), and the invitation was extended to my old schoolfellow KrablxS. We all met at an excellent repast at 4 p.m. First came ox-tail and hare soups, then preserved salmon (much calumniated, as all the headaches the next morning are invariably imputed to it) ; this was followed by a leg of venison, ditto of musk veal, roast ptarmigan, musk beef pie, and ham with vegetables in the shape of mashed turnips, green peas, parsnips, and preserved potatoes. The second course was composed of a plum pudding, mince pies (real), and numerous tarts and tartlets, the whole decorated with gaily coloured miniature flags, made in England for the purpose. Cheese, of course, followed, and an ample dessert of almonds and raisins, of ginger-bread nuts, wine biscuits, French olives, and, though last, not least, a noble plum cake, which would have been excellent, had it not been for the numerous geological specimens the cook had inserted, creating a somewhat un- pleasant surprise on coming in contact with one's teeth. With the aid of beer, champagne, port, and sherry, to assist the flow of soul, the diimer passed off admirably; the celebrated arctic band being in attendance, playing popular and appropriate airs, after the removal of the cloth; A A 2 356 ELECTRIC TELEGRAPH : ' I I when with full hearts and glasses, we drank to " absent friends ! God bless them ! " Nor were the ship's company backward in enjoy- ment, songs and sentiments were the order of the evening, under the excellent arrangements of a despotic master of the ceremonies — who, with the stroke of a hammer on the armourer's bench, im- posed order and silence amongst the somewhat noisy but good-humoured company. During the day, the wires of the electric tele- graph had been run across to the " Intrepid," supported about twelve feet from the floe by boat oars placed about thirty yards asunder ; the gear had been put in order by Lieut. Hamilton, who had very kindly given instruction in the working and reading off of the telegraph to as many as ex- pressed a desire to learn. Now the wind from N.N.W. had gradually in- creased, during the day, from a moderate breeze to a strong gale with heavy drift, as night approached — of course hiding the " Intrepid " from our view. Although the temperature, 18° minus, was not to be feared in itself, yet, combined with a long exposure, a very probable circumstance if the men lost their way, — than which nothing is more likely in a heavy drift, — it was decided the Intrepids 1;^ i ITS SUCCESSFUL WORKING. 357 should remain on board for the night, and arrange- ments were accordingly made for their accommo- dation. But what was our surprise when, about 10 o'clock, two men belonging to the " Intrepid " arrived on board, literally covered with drift, to inquire if their shipmate Hartnell, whom they had missed for the last half hour, had arrived on board. On inquiry, it appeared no one had seen the man, and the circum- stance was reported to Captain Kellett, who desired Lieut. Vesey Hamilton to telegraph to " Intrepid," " Is Hartnell on board ? " It must be remembered this was the first essay after the telegraph had been reported in gear. Nearly all the officers assembled in the captain's cabin, watching with eager gaze the motions of the mysterious needle. A few seconds elapsed, when tinkle, tinkle, went the alarum. The stroke for ready was promptly returned, and the question was asked in less than a minute. A short time elapsed (this we expected, for of course the man must be sent for), when again the alarum sounded, and YES was read off with as much ease and facility as if Captain M'Clintock had personally responded to the inquiry. Nothing could be more fortunate than this trial or the result, for it would have been dangerous to have A A 3 ,ui f I 358 LAST DAY OF THE TEAR, 1853. exposed parties in search of the missing man. The perfection thus displayed in the working of the telegraph, and the efficiency of the whole arrange- ments carried out so successfully by Lieut. Hamil- ton, reflect much credit on that officer. As the sonorous bell (scarcely heard above the storm) pealed forth eight, announcing to our little world that another year had passed away, the band played that soul-stirring tune (associated as it is, and always will be, with never-to-be-forgotten friends), " Auld lang syne," in which we all joined. The telegraph was again set in motion, and the compliments of the season were exchanged between ourselves and the Intrepids. Being Sunday morning, we soon separated and retired to rest ; some possibly to contemplation. Two men from the " Intrepid " coming below, I happened to be within hearing of one of our men, who, in a tone of surprise, asked one of the new comers, — "Why, Jim ! what the deuce brought you aboard, such a night as this 'ere ? " " What brought me a- board ? " responded his friend (who, by the bye, is acknowledged to be the wag of his ship), " why ! T come over by the electric telegraph, to be sure ! " It is not necessary to state, this happy hit was re- ceived with roars of laughter by all who heard it. r>. ^.ZXU i JJii....^^ THE LOST MAN. 359 I and was the cause of the man's obtaining a glass of grog. With respect to the " lost man," as he has since been termed, it appears he left the " Intrepid," with the intention of crossing to the "Resolute." On reaching the first post, however, he lost sight of the " Intrepid," though within fifty yards of her. Afraid of advancing or returning, he adopted the best, though somewhat laughable, expedient of calling out at the top -of his voice, "A man lost! a man lost ! " He was fortunately heard, and soon discovered crouching for shelter under a snow pillar. The circumstance, as might have been anticipated, gave rise to much pleasantry, and the sobriquet of the ** lost man," was affixed to him by his shipmates. A A 4 \ !'' n t ;!» Table of Positions of H.M. S. "Resolute" {andtender^ ^^ Intrepid") Sept. 10. 1853, {the day first beset,) to Nov. 5. 1853, when Due, 1NA3. Latitude. (North.) Longitude. (South.) Sound. iwat Noon. 1 PrevailinB Wind* previous Date since Drift Obiiei ince Inst Tatl'sns. Direction. Force. (Aisumed poaition, 8 p.m.) fmi. Septembet. Sat. 10. - 740 syoo" I05038'00" ••t W.N.W.-N.N.W. fr-lO Mon. 12. - 74 40 41 105 53 IS ... N.N.W.-N.W. 6-10 S. 12*0 W._23i' Tuei. 13. - 74 47 00 106 95 W.N.W. 6-3 N.67 E.-l-Sf Wed. 14. . 74 46 35 104 61 30 95 W,-W.S.W. 3-1 S. 70 E— 1 Frld. 16. - 74 44 4 104 49 30 75 S.E.-N.E.-N.W. 1-4 S.34 E.— 3 Sat. 17. - 74 41 56 104 30 46 107 N.W.-W. 6-7 S. 68 E._6i Sun. 18. - 74 49 00 104 24 15 • •• N.-N.N.W. 7-3 S. 30 E.-34 Mon. 19. - 74 37 42 104 32 00 ••• N.N.W. 4 S. 47 W.— 2J Wed. 21.- 74 32 50 104 8 30 ••■ N.-N.N.W. 2-6 S.52 E._ 7i Thur. 22. 74 30 3 104 5 30 • ■• N.N.W. 3 S. 16 E— 3 Frld. 23. - Sat. -.24. • 74 32 42 74 35 00 103 35 00 90 95 N.N.W.-W.-S.W. S.W.-W.S.W. 3 2 N.71 E.— Si Sun. 25. - 74 33 45 102 33 45 98 W.S.W.-S. 2-3 N. 24 E._l| Mon. 26. - Wed. 28. - 74 35 18 74 37 39 103 23 00 103 20 45 S. Southlj-.-Easterly. 3 1-4 N. 74 N. 17i E.— 2J E.-3' October. Sat. 1. - 74 39 2 103 2 15 ••• E -S.E.-We«terly. 3-2 7 N.74 E._ .5J Tue». 4. - Wed. 5. - 74 30 36 74 29 15 102 28 00 105 93 N.W. W.N.W. 7-3 6 S. 43 E._13J Thur.6. - 74 29 25 102 9 30 94 N.-N.W^W. liyS. 4-2 N.86 E.— 51 Mon. 10. - 74 34 31 « s * 70 W.-E.S.E. 1-2-8 Thur. 13. 75 4 17 102 33 00 65 E.S.E.-S.-S.W. IOl.2 N.U W.-.354 Sun. 16. - 76 57 . . . 55 Var.-N.W.-N. 1-0-1-3 Tues. 18. - 76 1 41 102 25 30 62 N.E.-Var. 1-0-1 S.42 E.-3J Frld. 21. - 74 66 7 102 13 30 ••• N.W.-NE.-N.W. 1-0-2 S.27 E.~6{ Sat. 22. - Tues. 25. - 74 48 44 74 48 22 102 14 15 101 23 45 an 80 N.N.W. W.-S.W. a-6-4 3-4 .South S. 89 E-Hisl Thur. 27. 74 44 52 101 11 30 80 Southerly .-N.E. 1-9 S. 40 E._5 NovevOer. Sat. 5. . Sat. 12. - 74 41 18 74 41 53 101 17 15 101 11 00 76 75 N.N.W. N.N.W.-W.-Calm. 3-8-3-7 1-4- 7-C S. 25 Total d W.-4 riflTiso Foiition of f Mean < >f 4 latitudes • 74° 41' 34" N.7 „ ..«- £f i.t_ rtfe-. Captain H. Kellett, C. B. ; showing their drift in the pack,/rom both ships became permanently fixed for the winter. Bcarinfp and Distance*. Yuung Ice, 3 inches thick ;Pt. Griffiths N. 60° W. N. 6° W C. Gillman N. 40O R. N. 35° E. N. 340 E. N. 15° E. N. 11° E. N. 13° E. N. 30 E. North N. 170 W, - 7' —21' —23' -20' —22' —23' —Si)' — 27i' —30' —34' ,— 31i' N. 17° W.-31' N. 25° W.— 30' N. 25° W.-28' N 350 W.— 30' N. 3&0 W.— 43' N. 430 W.— 40' S. 870 W._25' N. 85° W.-26' N. 770 W— 31J' C. Cockburn 05° W.— 32J' 46° E.— 2-4' N.310 E.— 27' N.34'3 E.-271' N. 34° E— 20i' Kemarki, &c. Slipped from fast ice, off Point Griffiths, at 3-50 ph. Khd dow;itojoin*' Intrepid " about S.E.,S miles, ihence S.S.K. about four miles, till 8 p.m., when ships were besei for this position (by d.k.) vide Table. 1 1th. Ice Ave ;nuhes thick. Increase since yesterday two iiichpt. Wind blowing at times a whole gale till p.m. yesterday, tlien gradually modcriitcd to a fresh breeze. Communicuted with " Intrepid" across tlie ice \ 1 p.m. ob- served land irom N. to W.N.W. Sliip's head, south. Cutting around ship to hrfng her head to northward. •' Intrepid" E.N.E. (true) 400 yards. During the forenoon. Ice being in motion rendered winding sliip iinpraciicable. Preparing travelling gear. Ice occasionally in motion, p.m., pressure on ship: in- creased considerably between 8 p.m. and midnight. 3 A.M., ice iTippiuB with a loud noise. Ship heeled h° to port. Ice level with port gunwale ; 4. Motion ceasrd. Preparing travelling gear, provisions, &c., in event of being obliged to abandon >hip. No motion in ice. " Intrepid " altered bearing on the 18tli to K.S.E., 400 yards. Down top>gallantmasts. No change. Unshipped and secured rudder across the stern lor the winter. Levelling ice round ship. Lane of water formed a quarter of a mile a-head of ship ; a lew pools S.W. 5 A.M. Ice opened, forming a lane twenty yards distant on starboard side. Heard noise of ice in (notion to soutli. No apparent motion. No motion. Digging fire-hole on port side. Ice doubled up in layers to a ttiickness of twenty-two feet. Heavy fall of snow during forenoon. 7 p.m., a narrow crack a-head of ship. Several pools, S.E. Ice in motion ; cracks all around ; thickness of ice, sixteen inches. Snowing upper deck ; crack on starboard side open thirty feet ; variation by good azimuth, 179" 40' W. Heavy squalls towards niglit ; during tiie 1 1th ana 12th, ship driving to northward ; no apparent motion. lO'^O, ol)Eerved llyam Martin VV. hy N. (true). 14th heavy range of hummucks (? Parry's shoal) N. 48° E 10'. Hummocks in siglit since the I4ih, with considerable pools anit lanes of water in all directions. Banking up around ship ; Utting winter hatciies ; buildiuK wall round tire-liole. Cape Cockburn N. 63° E — 31 J'. Ship equi-distant from Cape Cockburn and Cape Giilinan. Observed an owl. 8. observed Cape Cockburn N E. (frue), 10 |© rt. land 101° 27'. Land N.N.E. from foretop (? Mount Bullock). From this day the ship may be considered stationary for the winter. The position of winter quarters, as determined by a series of observations, is given below. Course and distance made good since beset at 8 p.m. on the 10th Sept. (,56 days) is S. 75° E _69 miles. " Intrepid " E. S. E. (true) 400 yards. '^' I I I .'» i 362 CHAP. XV. Read a Second Paper on Arctic Explorations. — Mr. Nares reads a Paper on " Mechanics." — Death of James Wilkie (I. Q, M.). — Hamilton ordered to prepare for Beechey. — A Few Words about the Dogs. — Harness for Dogs. — Hamil- ton's intended Proceedings. — Hamilton leaves for Beechey Island. — Roche Shot through the Thigh. — Hamilton's Second Start for Beechey. — Proposed Routes for Explora- tion. — Mecham and Krabb^ leave for Baring Island. — Com- mander Richards arrives from " Assistance." — Proceedings of " Phoenix ," in 1853. — Death of Lieut. Bellot in August, 1853. — Proceedings of "Assistance" and "North Star." — Return of Hamilton and Nares from Beechey. — Commander M'Clintock returns from " Assistance." — Preparations for abandoning the Ship. — Arrival and Departure of Lieut. Cheyne and Mr. Jenkins. — The Last Day on Board " Reso- lute."— Abandonment of H.M.S. " Resolute" and "Intrepid." January, 1854, was, as I have before observed, ushered in with a strong gale, well befitting the gloomy regions of the north. The delight felt by all at the arrival of another year, which we fondly hoped would prove the season of our release from our present state of thraldom, was somewhat saddened whene'er our thoughts reverted to the NEW YEAR, 1854. — DEATH OF HOOD, R.M. 363 dying state of poor Hood (a marine), belonging to the " Intrepid," who for ome time had been in a dangerous state, although the exact nature of his malady was unknown even to the " medical officers of the squadron." On the 2nd he breathed his last, and the same evening a post-mortem examination took place, when it became apparent the poor man had been labouring under a complication of diseases, affect- ing the heart. The following day, the 3rd, at 11 a.m., the body of our departed comrade was committed to the deep with the usual solemnities. He had been in the two former expeditions (under Sir James Ross and Captain Austin), and had formed one of Com- mander M'Clintock's crew to Melville Island in 1851. During this voyage, however, his health gradually but surely declined, so much so, indeed, as to render it necessary to confine his travelling operations to a dep6t, or short party. This journey probably accelerated his disease ; his system never recovered, but gradually became worse, until death terminated his sufferings. The floe on the 3rd was four feet six inches thick, being an increase (since December 16th) of twenty-one inches in eighteen days. 364 SECOND PAPEB ON ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. On the night of the 10th, I read a second paper on arctic explorations to the officers and crews of ship and tender. The subject-matter was the sufferings of Franklin and his companions, during the truly eventful journey to the polar seas in 1820-23. Forty minutes' reading (to which I confined myself) gave a very imperfect idea of the misfortunes they experienced, or the misery they endured; but, I confess, T was gratified to observe the unusual interest the seamen evinced, as the narrative advanced, and the terrifying and disheartening incidents increased; and I felt fully rewarded for any little trouble I had taken in its compilation, by the sincere " Thank you, sir," from the audience. The daily increasing bright arch to the south- ward was welcomed as the harbinger of the sun's arrival in these regions, on his annual tour ; but the hours were yet eagerly counted that would elapse ere his actual presence would brighten the dreary scene around us, and gladden the hearts of each and all. On the 27th, the port quarter deck housing was triced up for the first time. I confess I prefer the system adopted by Captain Austin, in always mmns Hil PAPER ON MECHANICS. 365 having (of course in moderate weather) the lee curtain triced up during the day, for it not only allowed light to penetrate, but assisted in carrying off the confined air. I have not mentioned that, on the 24th inst., Mr. Nares read a paper explanatory of a few of the simple laws of Mechanics. During the month, an order had been issued to close the purser's and .warrant officers' accounts by the 31st March, and as the captain contem- plated despatching a party, the first week in March, to Beechey Island, the purser's stores were com- menced at once, as it was necessary to estimate the quantity of provisions that would remain on the above date, and transmit it to Sir Edward Belcher. Thursday, 2nd. — Poor Wilkie, ice-quartermaster of the "Intrepid," breathed his last at 3 a.m., of disease of the heart and effusion of the chest. He had been on the sick list nearly the whole winter, but was not considered in danger until within about three weeks of his death. Latterly his body had swollen to such a size as scarcely to be credited, not one feature could have been recognised. It is a sad reflection that the " Intrepid " should have lost no less than four out 366 DEATH OP JAMES WlLKlE. Ross's, 1848-49 Can? '•' '" S'"" J-^^s > o»o *»,Oaptain Austin's issn c. present one. Both h«H k ^^^' """^ ""c «ble for their stretth!. "'""'^'"^ ''-"'"•k. ^-is^htv^rrrt^eTr''^*'"" of these fine felW^. The iSw , ^^ ^ °^ "^^ that regained of poor w Ikt J'"^ ''''^' '''' '''' "" ^-e,Jn.asthe%L^^r;;;7^-^*-he -» tinged the southern ZlC !!"' "'""* -n's semi-diameter was abov^ h" ho "" *'" an absence of eight,-nine days Ilthonl "' "''"" to my calculation, it should nJ h ^ ' ''"'°'"'''"" the floe until the' follol;!' J^^^^ fr- weather prevented our obL J' °"'^' "'''*^ until the 7th. "'"^ " ^«<=°nd view W the frozen ground, anatZ^\"^'\r crowbars, were required er. ,~''' «^ ^e« "^ " broken out." Ta ™Lt ,v ^™"'" *""• "- the fact of snow bei.! L ---""stance to """« '" '""ny instances brought 1: HAMILTON ORDERED TO BEECUEY. 367 off with the ballast ; the latter, melting during the summer, percolated through the gravel, and was again frozen during the winter, of course consoli- dating the gravel immersed. The after-hold, however, presented a very dif- ferent appearance. There the temperature being considerably higher than in the fore-hold, the water had not frozen ; but was found beneath the gravel, and about three inches deep ; the upper layer of gravel being perfectly dry. On the first day of the month, the captain had informed Lieut. Hamilton he was to prepare to leave with a party for Beechey Island, early (probably the first week) in March. This was the more necessary, as Sir Edward Bel- cher, if at Beechey Island, would naturally feel very anxious respecting us. For although, when Captain Richards quitted Dealy Island, the abandonment of the " Investigator" was not known, yet it was the unanimous opinion of all that she would be left to her fate, and he separated impressed with this feel- ing. On the other hand, it was necessary to ascer- tain whether any ships were at Beechey Island, and, if not, the extent of the resources left there. It must be remembered that when last we heard of the " North Star" she was on shore, and was con- f i. ■: 8G8 A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE DOGS. sidercd to be in an unpleasant position ; also that we were entirely unacquainted with the movements of the senior branch of the expedition, whether it had been extricated or not. On the 16th, Hamilton and party commenced taking long walks, after divisions at 9 a.m., in order to accustom the men to pedestrian exercise. On their return a pint of home-brewed beer was issued to each. The floe in the vicinity of the ships was found to be more broken and irregular than it was three or four miles from them in a N.E. direction, towards Cape Cockburn, which on fine days could be seen, particularly when refraction affected the atmosphere. Some little attention was paid to the dogs, as they had not been overfed during the winter, but now, when they were about to be employed, it was necessary to give them a few good feeds pre- vious to starting. With this object in view, a mass was concocted composed of bread-dust, seal- skins, whale oil, and peas-soup ; indeed, anything in the edible way that could be obtained was put into the stock-pot. AVith this all the dogs were al- lowed to distend their skins until they could scarcely walk, and it is astonishing how soon some of them picked up flesh. •^m A FEW WOIIDS ADOUT THE DOGS. 369 During the last fortnight in '•'ebruary they also took exercise with the party, being sometimes har- nessed to the sledge; this was the more necessary, as, for the first few days, the exertion required caused several of the weakest to have serious fits j none of them, however, ended fatally, but evidence of their injurious effects could be traced in the very expres- sion of the dogs. I have inserted the following Table of their weights, by which it will be ap- parent that the dogs are not in such good condition this year as they were on their departure for Banks' Land in 1853. Dogi. Mar. 1853. Feb. 6, 1851. Mar. 1851 Rcmarkt. Lion (leader) - 72 lbs. 60 lbs. 63 lbs. Ilusk^ 67 „ 62J„ 69 „ Shakings - 73 „ Shakings was shot in Sept. 1853. Sophy 57 „ 54 „ 56 „ Jenny 55 „ 62 52 „ Merry Lass 4H„ 55 53 „ Buffer 40i „ 62 „ 70J „ The harness for the dogs in '53 had been ar- ranged from a design of one of the men, who had been selected to take charge of the dogs, in conse- quence of the experience he was said to have acquired, during a residence of four years in New- foundland. B B J' ^1 V i r mi ! i '>! 370 HARNESS FOR DOGS. A stuffed collar was made to fit close round the neck, to the sides of which were attached the drag- ropes, fitted with a toggle to facilitate slipping. A belly-band and back-strap kept the drag-ropes, or, more properly speaking, traces, in their proper position. This time, however, Thompson (who had proved the excellence of his qualities as dog-driver under Captain Penny, and later still, under Mr. Roche on his return from Beechey Island in June, 1852) had installed himself as master of the hounds, and on taking office, substituted for the old harness some of his own, lighter, more simple, and better adapted for the service in every respect. It consisted of two strips of canvas, with occa- sional stops (white line), thus forming loops, one fitting over the head, and one for each fore-leg, being a combination of martingale and belly-band. On trial, the pressure on the neck and shoulders was much decreased, and the dogs evidentlv dragged with greater ease than under the old system. March, the usually boisterous month, was ushered in with light southerly airs, and comparatively warm weather. We all regretted Hamilton did not start this day (1st, and none more so than Hamilton's intended proceedings. 371 himself), for after the late gale on the 26th and 27th ultimo, we had reason to believe the weather would continue fair for some days ; and let it be known fair weather to start 'vith, is as much desired by a travelling party, as a fair fresh breeze is to commence an ordinary voyage, — both are con- sidered propitious. On the 3rd. Hamilton packed his sledge and received his orders ; a summary of which I insert : — " To command the two parties, consisting (in all) of two officers, nine men, nine dogs, and two runner sledges, provisioned for fifteen days. His own party besides himself consisted of Mr. Roche, two men, and the dogs ; the other party of seven men was placed under the command of Mr. Court, acting-master, late of "Investigator." Hamilton was to strike in for the land in order to deposit a notice of his intended route, as it was supposed possible that Sir Edward Belcher might despatch early parties in search of us, and if so, their meeting with Hamilton's cairn and record would not only inform them of our whereabouts, but of the de- parture of the parties for Beechey Island. Mr. Court, in the meantime, was to make the best of his way to Erebus and Terror Bay ; where it was B B 2 ! I i ■' I I 372 BEECHEY ISLAND PARTIES LEAVE. expected Hamilton would have arrived several days before. In the event of Sir Edward Belcher being there, or in Gascoigne Inlet, Hamilton's future pro- ceedings would be controlled by him. In the absence of the Commodore, however, Commander PuUen was directed to despatch Mr. Court and party to Port Leopold, to take an account, and as- certain the state of the dep6t left by Sir James Ross in 1848-49. Mr. Roche, in the meantime, was to proceed with the dogs up Wellington Channel in search of " Assistance " and " Pioneer ; " Hamilton awaiting his return to Beechey Island, to bring the result to Captain Kellett. On the morning of Saturday, the 4th, at 8 a. m. precisely, the Beechey Island parties left amidst the hearty cheers, and with the good wishes of all com- prising the squadron, who looked forward with no little anxiety to their return with news of the doings of the other two branches of this eventful Expedi- tion, more particularly the young married men, and suspected lovers, who were anxious to receive news from England. This day, the 3rd, at 0*30 p. m., a small rill of water was observed to trickle down a black tar- jmit.dMu FIRST WATER OBSERVED. 373 paulin, facing to the southward. The spot alluded to, where the igreeable phenomenon occurred, had been exposed co the influence of the sun since his rising. The temperature in the shade was — 30**, in the sun —4°, being an increase of no less than 26° of heat from the sun. In 1853, the first water, under similar circum- stances, was not observed until a later date, viz., on the 20th March. The thermometer in the shade being — 1°. Monday J ISth, — The second electric telegraph between the ship and tender was removed, in order to try the effect of water (under the ice) as a con- ducting medium. For this purpose the ends of the single wire were placed a few feet beneath the surface of the water, in the respective fire-holes of the two vessels, and on trial the circuit of electric fluid was found to be quite complete. The travellers were assisted on their way during the forenoon, by two fatigue parties under Messrs. Nares and de Bray, who returned at noon, report- ing their having already separated on their different routes, and being on good floes. The following day, at 1*30 p.m., to our great surprise, Mr. Roche and one man returned with five dogs, to exchange the sledge ; disabled in B B 3 374 THE DOGS ARE "DONE UP." ' > f. t crossing a range of hummocks. It appears that, shortly after Mr. Nares left them, the road gra- dually became more and more irregular, until at length it consisted of broken masses of hummocky ice. At 3 P.M., they were obliged to encamp about sixteen miles from the ship (and twelve from the nearest land), in consequence of the dogs (several of whom had fits) showing evident signs of being " done up." Mr. Roche then attempted to return alone, in order to take out another sledge ; but, fortunately, when only four miles distant from the tent, he felt too exhausted to proceed, and turned back for the encampment, where he arrived footsore and weary at 8 P.M. This morning (Sunday), he again started with the dog-sledge, and as I have before observed, arrived a little after 1 p.m., Hamilton and one man with the weakest of the dogs remaining en- camped. At 6 A. M., on Monday the 6th, Roche again Started with a new sledge to rejoin Lieut. Ha- milton ; Nares and a party accompanying him part of the way. We now hoped they were fairly off; but who can foresee what a day, nay an hour, may bring forth ? About half-past three, whilst sitting ROCHE SHOT THROUGH THE THIGH. 375 at dinner, we heard, during a slight cessation in the conversation, the electric telegraph bell ring- ing; a minute afterwards we were informed that Hamilton had arrived on board the "Intrepid," reporting Roche severely wounded by the accidental discharge of a gun j the contents of which passed through his thigh. As may be supposed, all was hurry and commo- tion, and in a few minutes the floe was crowded with people to meet the advancing sledge. It appears that a gun, which Hamilton was inserting under the lashing of the sledge, had exploded. Roche, who was incautiously standing before the muzzle of the gun, received the ball through the inner fleshy part of the left thigh. After passing a temporary bandage above the wound, Hamilton placed Roche on the sledge and hurried back to the ship. The party arrived at 3*45 p.m. (having accomplished a distance of sixteen miles in three hours and three quarters) ; the wound, after being examined, was pronounced not dangerous. Had the sledge been heavily laden, and consequently higher, the ball must have passed through the abdomen, and in all probability would have caused instantaneous death. B B 4 I li ■ 1 ''I ' 1 376 GALLANT CONDUCT OF THOMPSON, A.B. The conduct of Thompson, who left with Roche in the morning, is deserving of every praise ; for he must have travelled at least thirty-two miles in eight and a half hours, marching over an irregular floe ; a distance equivalent to at least forty miles on any road in England. The dogs on their arrival appeared quite worn out with fatigue; not to be wondered at, when their arduous services during the day are con- sidered; their powers had been overtasked in consequence of the accident. A substantial warm meal, composed of pea-soup, bread-dust, and a pound (each) of musk-beef, was awarded on the occasion ; no second bidding was required to " fall to," and after iiaving gorged themselves to their hearts' content, they composed themselves to rest. The day they first left. Merry Lass, during a fit, had scampered off, and had not since been seen. An amusing scene took place a little before the dog mess was prepared. Mr. Dean, commiserating the condition of the animals, brought on deck a pie, from which only a small portion had been taken, intending to divide it amongst the team ; Lion however, snuffing the savoury dish, stationed him- self at the top of the fore-ladder, and on the ap- pearance of the dish above the coamings, instantly IIAmLTON's SECOND START FOR BEECHEY. 377 took possession by thrusting a fore leg through the hole in the crust, nor would he allow Mr. Dean or any of the dogs to approach the dish, until the contents had been duly discussed. Tuesday^ 1th. — Lieut. Vesey Hamilton again started, with Mr. Nares (mate), in lieu of Mr. Roche, and all sincerely hoped that this, the third time, would prove fortunate. The month of March was peculiarly devoid of interest, nothing worthy of record occurring, save the preparations for the departure of the various parties. As may be supposed, the principal topic of conversation related to the proceedings and supposed position of " Assistance," the chances for, and against, — any vessel visiting Beechey Island in 1853, — the result of Hamilton's journey, — and the forthcoming season. We were also a little anxious concerning Hamil- ton and party, in consequence of the continuance of extreme cold, more particularly as most of us had experienced the misery endured in a tent with the temperature 30° minus. We however trusted to his prudence and experience in arctic travelling, to return with his crew uninjured. On Monday, 20th, commenced removing the snow banking from around the ship, and preparing the .1 ti 378 PROPOSED ROUTES FOR EXPLORATION. equipments of the various sledges for the parties about to leave for Beechey. Several routes had been mentioned for explora- tion during the present year ; viz., to the south- ward, down Peel Inlet ; to connect the piece of coast line between Rae and Browne's farthest ; but as we knew before leaving England that Dr. Rae was about to attempt its accomplishmenn this very year, it was not deemed of sufficient importance to be the line of search. The other, and by far the most important direc- tion, was to the westward as far as the Princess Royal Islands (and if possible beyond), in Prince of Wales Strait, for the purpose of ascertaining whe- ther or not Captain CoUinson had penetrated so far as that neighbourhood, a thing not at all impro- bable; for the Esquimaux had informed Captain M'Clure that, during the suuimer months, there was always water along the shore, varying in width, but of sufficient extent to admit a ship's passing to the eastward. It was not until the latter end of March that Captain Kellett finally determined on despatching two parties to the westward, the one to proceed down the Prince of Wales Strait (for the purpose given above), with a second sledge, to perform the DEPARTURE OF MECHAM AND KRABB^. 370 double service of auxiliary, to visit the Bay of Mercy, and ascertain the state of the " Investi- gator." It was intended to have despatched the travellers on the 1st April, but they were retained on board until the morning of the 3rd, in hopes of Hamilton's arrival with news of our friends at Beechey. However, as he did not appear, Lieut. Mechara and Mr. Krabb^ with fourteen men, two runner sledges, and twelve days' provisions, left the ship for Dealy Island, where they would replenish from the dep6t. On parting, we exchanged three hearty cheers, and in order to render the first day's march easy, a fatigue party accompanied them, to assist in dragging the sledges for a few hours. The details of the arrangements, so far as could be foreseen, are as follows : — After leaving Dealy, the two parties would keep company along the south coast of ^lelville Island, to at least as far as Cape Providence, when they would probably diverge; Mecham to the Princess Royal Islands, and as far beyond as he deemed prudent, whilst Krabbe would make direct for Cape Russell, where he would deposit the provisions for Mecham on I I 'I •r i;- ,.*.■ 380 ARRIVAL OF COMMANDER RiClIAUDS. his return, and then proceed along the land to visit the " Investigator," in the Bay of Mercy. On Thursday the 6th, at 11 a.m. a few dark moving specks were descried to the N. E. Every- body was immediately in an unusual state of excite- ment, awaiting the much-desired news. But all were astonished on finding the figure in advance to be no other than our friend and visitor of the previous year. Commander Richards, of " Assist- ance." He had with him seven men and five dogs, and brought, in addition to his own good qualities, what would have ensured him a hearty welcome, viz., letters and papers from Old England, per H.M. S.V. "Phoenix," Commander Inglefield, who had communicated with the " North Star " in the month of August, 1853. Although opinions were divided respecting any communication having taken place with Beechey Island in 1853, all were rejoiced to receive from iiome, letters and papers, albeit a twelvemonth old. It would appear that Commander Inglefield had been chosen to communicate with Beechey Island, in consequence of his successful cruise in the " Isabel " up Smith's Sound the previous year. . For this purpose the " Phoenix " (screw steamer) had been duly fitted to encounter the ice, and PROCEEDINGS OF THE ** TIKENIX " IN 1853. 381 commanded by Commander Inglefield, left England in the month of May, 1853, for Beechey Island, accompanied by two transports. One filled with coals, for the purpose of replenishing the " Phoenix" at the Whale-Fish Islands ; the other, the " Bread- albane," being laden with provisions for the Ex- pedition. The " Devastation " (Commander Camp- bell) and "Baracouta" (Commander George Par- ker) were ordered to assist the transports on their way ; the former saw her charge to the AVhale-Fish Islands ; the latter parted company at an early stage of the passage, and returned to England. On the 14th August the " Phoenix " arrived at Beechey Island, in company with the " Breadalbane" trans- port, and immediately commenced clearing the latter vessel. Monsieur Bellot, a lieutenant in the French navy, who had accompanied Mr. Kennedy in the " Prince Albert," the previous year, gallantly volunteered his services to communicate with Sir Edward Belcher up the Wellington Channel — a service of extreme risk, at this season of the year. Unhappily, during a heavy gale, on the 18th August (the day, it will be remembered, we were driven from our winter quarters at Dealy Island), poor Bellot lost his life. It appears that wheii 382 SAD FATE OF LIEUT. BELLOT. about to land for tenting, in the vicinity of Point Hogarth, a lane of water had to be crossed between the ice they had been marching on, and the shore. The line, however, proved too short to draw the sledge on the beach, and they were obliged to re- main on the moving ice. The last that was seen of Lieut. Bellot was on his going round a hummock, out of sight of his companions j the rest is mere conjecture, for he never returned. The prevailing idea is that he was blown, or stumbled into the sea, and was unable to regain the ice. Poor fellow ! the simple fact of his being a second time employed in the search for Sir John Franklin and the crews of the " Erebus " and " Terror," and this last time by the British Government, is a sufficient proof of his high merits as an officer, and of his noble devotion to the cause, whilst Mr. Kennedy, in his narrative of the second voyage of the *' Prince Albert," as well as the officers of the " Phoenix," bear ample testimony to his having been in possession of all those qualities, that cause a man to be respected and beloved by his associates. This sad accident, the first and last, which has occurred in all the Searching Expe- ditions, was deeply felt by the whole squadron. On the 20th August, the wind blowing strong wa DESTRUCTION OF THE " BREADALBANE." 383 from the S.E., the "Phoenix" and "Brcadalbane" were secured to a driving floe, about lialf a mile south of Beechey Island. The ice from the offing closed, and so efTectually crushed the transport as to complete her destruction in the short space of fifteen minutes; the "PhcBnix" narrowly escaping a similar catastrophe. And here I would respect- fully call the attention of the theoretical savants to the fact that in the short space of a quarter of an hour, a vessel capable of navigating the globe, disappeared beneath the surface of the sea, by the almost mysterious power of a field of ice. The accident occurred at night, and was so unexpected, that the agent narrowly escaped with his life, being obliged to rush on deck, and scramble to the floe in almost a state of nudity. The " Breadalbane," however, I must admit, was a hired transport, and was not strengthened, as she ought to have been, like all other arctic ships, and the agent had never been in the ice before. On the 24th, the "Phoenix" left Beechey Island for England, taking with her Lieuts. Cresswell and AVynniatt of "Investigator," and the boatswain and men belonging to this ship who accompanied Mr. Roche to Beechey Island in May '53. The "Assistance" left her winter quarters on 384 PROCEEDINGS OP "ASSISTANCE." 14th July, and after a series of escajjes was again frozen up within 150 yards of the shore, about fifty miles northward of Beechey Island. The " Assist- ance" herself was on the ground, and it was a question whether she would not be thrown on shore by the movement of the ice this season. Nearly all the crew of the " North Star " had exchanged with the ship's company of the " Phoe- nix." Dr. M'Cormick and Mr. Alston (mate) also returned to England by the same convey- ance. On Monday, the 10th April, at 1 P. m., Lieut. Haswell, Mr. Paine, clerk in charge, Messrs. Newton and Ford, and nineteen men, all late of " Investi- gator," with two sledges and fifteen days' pro- visions, left for Beechey Island. The following morning a second detachment, consisting of Lieut. Pirn, Dr. Armstrong, Mr. Kennedy, and seventeen men, with two sledges and fifteen days' provisions, left for the same place. At 0*45 P.M. observed the dog- sledge approaching, and at 1 p. m. Lieut. Hamilton returned from the " Assistance " vid " North Star," in the short space of eight days, having accomplished the almost in- credible average of thirty miles a day. We now heard, for the first time, that there was some pro- RETURN OF HAMILTON AND NAHES. 385 bability of abandoning the ship, but the communica- tion on which this report was founded, was not j)romulgated. On Wednesday, 12th, Mr. Nares and party re- turned from Beechey ; two of the men had remained behind, one at the " Assistance," in consequence of a frost-bite, the second on board the " North Star," with a severe cold and cough. Most of the party had suffered from frost-bites, and some of their faces were disfigured in consequence. One man in particular, remarkable for a long proboscis, was badly scarred, his nose, poor fellow, being swollen to a laughable size. At 5 p. M. this day the temperature rose to zero, being the first time it had attained that height since October 28th, 1853, being a period of no less than 166 days. This day we commenced removing snow from off the upper deck. Thursday, April IStL — At 1 p.m. Commander Richards and party belonging to " Assistance," set out on their return, shortly followed by Com- mander M'Clintock, with one man, twelve dogs, and eight dcjs' provisions, with despatches for Sir Edward Belcher. Friday, lith. — At 10 a.m., Captain M'Clure, c c 386 KETURN OF COM. m'CLINTOCK. Mr. Piers (assistant-surgeon), Mr. Miertsching, (interpreter), and seventeen men, la*e of " Inves- tigator," with three sledges, and fifteen days' pro- visions, left for Beechey Island. Nearly all the parties being now despatched, our attention was turned to completing the " Intrepid " with pro- visions up to July 1st, whilst the carpenters were also busily employed cutting up one of our skid- beams (American elm) for two new sledges. Thursday, 20/A. — At 5 p. m M. de Bray, with nine men and a runner sledge, left to deposit the ice boat at the dep6t near Cape Cockburn. Monday, 2Ath Commenced clearing main-hold, preparatory to restowing ; and on the 27th began forming the cable (or rather hawser) tiers. Friday, 2Sth At 4*30 p.m.. Commander M*Clin- tock returned on board, having accomplished the di. '='. from the " Assistance " in seven days, and from Jieechey Island in five days. He brought decided orders from Sir Edward Belcher to abandon the ships, after a certain quantity of provisions had been landed at the dep6t near Cape Cockburn, and for which purpose three sledges were on their way to this ship from Beechey Island. Sunday, April 30^/t. — At divisions this day. Captain Kellett informed the assembled officers and rREPARE TO ABANDON THE SHIP. 387 crew, that it was his intention to proceed to Beechey Island, with the whole crew ; as soon as the various necessary arrangements were completed, and that he would inform them of the amount in weight he could permit each person to take, at the same time ordering them to have their clothes, &c., so packed, as to avoid confusion, in the event of re-occupying the ship. Monday, May \st to the 5th All hands were employed on the various duties incidental to aban- doning the ship. Boats were hoisted in and up, and secured ; booms stowed ; cables coiled ; rudder hoisted in, and. in short, every moveable article either struck below, or else securely lashed. The captain also decided on each officer being confined to forty-five pounds weight of clothes and necessaries, the men to thirty pounds. Friday, ^th. — At 6 p.m. Messrs. Roche and Nares (mates), and Johnson (acting boatswain), seventeen men, two sledges, and eight days' pro- visions, left for Cnpe Cockburn, with Lieut. Me- cham and Mr. Krabbe's depots of provisions for their journey to Beechey Island. Two ptarmigan were observed, hovering within a few feet of the floe, about fifty yards from the ship, evidently I i c c 2 \\ ,' 388 DEPARTURE OF DR. DOMVILLE. intending to pitch, but Naps (the dog), unfortu- nately observed them and frightened them away. Happily most of the invalids were in a state of convalescence ; but the one exception still con- tinued in a sad state, anr it became necessary to construct a kind of palanquin for his removal. Monday, Sth At 7 p. m. Dr. Domville and M. de Bray, with iiine men (principally invalids, in- cluding pool- Morgan in a cot), nine dogs, and two sledges, left for Beechey ; at the same time Lieut. Hamilton, with one man and five dogs, left for Dealy Island, with the double purpose of deposit- ing a record, and leaving a letter for Lieut. Me- cham and Mr. Krabbe, with orders to proceed to Beechey with all despatch, without calling at the ships. Tuesday, dth At 3 p.m., Lieut. Cheyne (of " Assistance "), Mr. Shellabeer, and thirteen men belonging to " North Star," arrived from Beechey Island, for the purpose of transporting provisions on shore near Cape Cockburn. Thursday^ IH/t. — Mr. Jenkins (mate), and six men belonging to " North Star," arrived from Beechey. Friday, 12th. — During the forenoon, tfie captain sent for me to witness the burning of the secret LAST DAY ON BOARD H.M.S. "RESOLUTE." 389 signals. Carpenter running down candles for fuel, and caulking down fore-hatchway. Saturday^ IZth. — Passed an additional lashing round the topsails and courses ; weighing packages, for dep6t, and clearing up on deck and around the ship. At 7 P.M., Lieut. Cheyne, Messrs. Jenkins and Shellabeer, with seventeen men and two sledges, left with provisions to increase dep6t near Cape Cock- burn, and thence to Beechey Island. The sledges were heavily laden, buc were favoured with a fair wind on starting, though not sufficient to relieve the pressure on the men's shoulders. At length the sun rose '^r ^he morning of the last day, we were to spend on ooard our old ship, endeared to us all by many bygone associations. Without affecting any absurd sentimentality, it may easily be imagined we all experienced feelings of regret as the time approached, when we were to abandon the staunch old craft to her fate, and almost certain destruction, as we then thought, by the ice. There were a thousand and one things we would have desired to save, such as souvenirs from those we loved and respected, had our weights permitted ; forty-five pounds is, however, too low a figure to indulge in luxuries. With a sigh, therefore, we c c 3 ^. 390 " RESOLUTE " ABANDONED. i !' were obliged to set aside the ornamental, and choose something more useful, but less romantic, in the shape of shirts, flannels, drawers, &c. All was hurry and bustle in concluding the ne- cessary arrangements. The pilot jack (letter D), was hoisted at the foretopmast-head, and the red ensign and pendant displayed, that, in the event of her being obliged to " knock under " to her icy an- tagonist, she might sink beneath the wave, as many a gallant predecessor had done, with colours flying. All on board, ofiicers and men, were much ex- cited during the day by the novelty of their sittia- tion. As the bell struck the hour, some waggish Cocker of the lower deck would calculate the hours and minutes to the time fixed for deserting. Numerous were the spectators when the signal books were effectually burnt at the galley fire. Shortly after the men's dinner the sledges were packed, averaging 215 lbs. per man. Whilst the carpenters were employed caulking down the gun- room skylight and after-companion, the only means of descending to the lower deck was by the main hatchway, and only half of that was open ; the captain dined with us in the darkened gun-room, and after supper, at 5 p.m., the carpenter with his crew prepared to close t|»e main hatchway. I I ntal, and nantic, in g the ne- etter D), the red event of r icy an- vave, as colours uch ex- ir situa- ^aggish e hours signal 'e. 3 were St the 3 gun- means main ; the ["oom, b his : ' r I' < ■il 1 1 1 1; I'l ! iV f' m 11. M.S. " INTREPID " ABANDONED. 391 At 6*15 P.M., the Captain Kellett inspected the lower deck, holds, &c., and after drinking a glass of wine to the old " Resolute " and her crew, the lower deck was cleared for the last time, and the main hatchway secured. At 7 P.M. precisely, the four sledges, commanded by Captain Kellett, Commander M'Clintock, Mr. Roche (mate), and myself, moved on in the direction of Cape Cockburn; Roche, being the junior officer, leading, whilst the captain brought up the rear, as in funeral order. We numbered in all forty- two souls; viz, eleven officers and thirty-one men; officers as follows : — *' Intrepid." Francis L. M'Clintock, Com. Robt. C. Scott, Assist.-Surg. Thos. R. Purchase, Engineer. Wm. Josh. Ibbetts, lingineer. And men. " Resolute." Captain H. Kellett, C. B. G. F. M'Dougall, Master. Richard Roche, Mate. G. S. Nares, Mate. W. H. Richards, Clk. in charge. W. Johnson, Acting Boatswain. W. Dean, Carpenter. And men. After advancing about a quarter of a mile, the crews of the various sledges halted simultaneously ; unharnessed, and gave three hearty cheers for the *' Resolute " and " Intrepid ; " but though the ice is a good conductor of sound, we heard no response. c c 4 '' 1 r 1 IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I ■At 128 ■10 ^^ u ■4.0 125 122 12.0 1.25 11.4 lii 1.6 -^ FhotograiJiic Sdenoes CarparatiQn 29 WKT MAM STMIT WnSTn,N.Y. 14SM (7l*)t7a-4S03 4^ %^^ $ 392 CHAP. XVI. Journal from "Resolute" to "North Star." — Arrival on board the " North Siar." — Travelling Arrangements between " North Star" and "Assistance." — Arrival of Mecham, Hamilton, and Krabb^ — Copy of Mecham's Letter of Proceedings. — Krubb^'s Letter of Proceedirir?. — Lieut. Hamilton appointed to command " Pioneer." — Leave " North Star " for " As- sistance" in Disaster Bay. — Arrive on board "Assistance." — Winter Quarters of " Assistance " and " Pioneer." — Return to Beechey Island. — Arrive on board the "North Star." — Cairn on Beechey Island. — Sir Edward Belcher arrives at Beechey Island. — The Monument on Beechey Island. — Liberation of "Assistance" and "Pioneer" from Disaster Bay." — Sir Edward Belcher and Party leave for " Assist- ance." — " Assistance " and " Pioneer" abandoned. — Arrival of "Pljoenix" and "Talbot" at Beechey Island.— Tablet to Lieut. Bellot. — Leave Beechey Island for England. — Anchor in Navy Board Inlet. — Depot injured by Esqui- maux. — Lose an Anchor and four Shackles of Cable. — Regain another and five Shackles of Cable. — Off the Black Hook. — Anchor off Lievely. — Sail from Lievely. — Return to England and Courl-Martial. The wind being light from the N. W. enabled us to make sail, and the scenic effect of perhaps the most striking incident of our lives, was not a little JOURNAL FROM " RESOLUTE " TO " NORTH STAR." 393 heightened by the display of the various coloured ensigns and pendants. The weights proved heavy enough in all con- science, and the work consequently laborious, and our pace bore a stronger resemblance to that of the tortoise than the hare ; when about a mile and a half from the ship, Roche's sledge began to evince evident signs of weakness, and a party returned to the " Resolute " to bring up another sledge, on which we deposited a part of the load from the weaker one, one man being taken from my sledge to assist in dragging the new one. I therefore in- stalled myself as one of the horses at my own sledge. Tuesday^ \Qth June. — At 4*45 a.m., encamped about eight miles from the ships; weather fine, clear, and cold; the men, heartily tired, gladly availed themselves, as I did, of the comfort (com- parative I must acknowledge) of a felt bag. At 3*30 P.M., struck tents and proceeded ; wind light from the northward, weather fine and clear ; about seven encountered a heavy and extensive mass of hummocks, and with many a standing pull, crossed without any accident to the sledges. On stopping for luncheon, all the water had disappeared from our bottles (thanks to the increased exertion ii ■ 1.;^ » ^p p^ U fc ^p ■ acess! i.' i J |) f 394 JOURNAL FROM " RESOLUTE " and thirst occasioned by the nature of the road), we were therefore compelled to melt a little snow, and I doubt if any honvivant ever appreciated the most costly wine, with greater gout than we did the scarcely dissolved snow. The sledge's crew had converted their last allowance of flour and currants into a very palatable cake, which, after being chopped with a hatchet, was washed down with a little grog. Every man after draining his " tot," * lights his pipe^ and for a few short minutes enjoy uninterrupted bliss, as his thoughts stray far away from the cold and dreary scene of his present labour. At length the well-known voice of the captain, shouting with stentorian lungs, " Buckle to, boys ! '* dispels his dream, destroys the foundation of all his airy castles, and brings him back, with the speed of Aladdin's lamp, to the wearying, monotonous, cart- horse-work of sad reality ; it also, literally, ** puts his pipe out," for although I have seen it attempted, few succeed in smoking whilst dragging. Wednesday, 17 th. — At 0*45 a.m., encamped close to a high range of hummocks, after several hours toil through a most abominable road. From the top of the range Cape Cockburn appeared to be • Allowance of grog. TO "north star." 395 about ten miles distant, this would make our last march, a ten mile one, in a N.E. by N. direction. At 3 P.M., struck tents and proceeded ; weather overcast ; wind light from N.W. floe rugged, with occasional patches of level ice, to gain which we were often obliged to make a considerable detour. Passed several old encampments during the day. It would perhaps be as well to state, that the men at the leading sledge, having to choose the road, are more liable to be aiFected by the refracted glare of the snow than those who follow. The sledges therefore took the lead alternately for half a march, and thus prevented considerable suffering. Thursday^ \%th. — At 1 a.m., encamped about three-quarters of a mile in a direct line from the low land of Cape Cockburn ; road for the last hour very, rer^bad, requiring much extra labour, which, when exerted after a hard day's toil, affected the men not a little. At 3 P.M., struck tents and proceeded, under sail, with a fresh breeze from W.N.W., through a high range of hummocks, not inaptly compared to a miniature Alps ; fortunately all crossed without any accident, or even being obliged to " double bank," this is to be attributed to the road being levelled by the numerous parties who had preceded us. 396 JOURNAL FROM " RESOLUTE " Wo gained the beach about 4 p.m., and then commenced wliat proved a most laborious march, across the low lands between Cape Cockburn and A eland Bay. Had we skirted the beach on the floe, a few hundred yards ofl', no doubt we would have experienced less difficulty, and have reached the dep6t in a shorter time. About 4*30, observed the sledges of the " North Star " ahead under sail ; thus we had accomplished, in little more than three marches, what had taken them above five. Their sledges however, it must be confessed, were not so well adapted for heavy loads as those" we had. At midnight, pitched tents at the dep6t, which I take to be about eight miles east of the nearest high land of the cape. The " North Star " sledges had left a short time before we arrived, and, after depositing a certain quantity of provisions, had proceeded on ; they were yet in sight, about two miles to the eastward. Unpacked, and left at the dep6t (from my sledge) two tins of boiled bacon. The provisions for Mecham, Krabb^, and Hamilton were stowed apart from the general dep6t; the latter consists of an ice-boat, Halkett's ditto, a sledge, and provisions for twenty days for sixty-six men, besides a quantity of fuel. TO "north star." 397 Friday^ \M. — At 4 p. m., struck tents ; placed the sledge " Erin " on end, as a landmark to Lieut. Mecham, and Mr. Krabbd. Proceeded on ; the " North Star " sledges, under weigh, about four miles ahead. Wind light from W, N.W. Weather gloomy, and objects very distorted and indistinct in consequence. An hour after starting, stopped to relash Roche's sledge, and again went on. About seven I accompa- nied Captain M'Cliiitock on shore, near Alison's inlet, to look for game, but saw none. The dung of hares and deer abounded ; and foot-prints of both animals, as also foxes, were numerous. We had struck in on the footsteps of two men (officers of the sledges ahead), and after losing them for about an hour, on the land, struck oflP', by mere accident, in their outward trail. On rejoining the sledges, about 1*15 a.m., on Saturday, the 20th, we encamped, being about four miles S.W. of Acland Bay. Wind light from the southward, with gloomy weather. At 4 P.M., struck tents and proceeded along a moderately good floe to the eastward. About eight saw a bear, but the rascal would not allow us to approach within rifle shot. Passed between Moore Island and the main. I 398 JOURNAL FROM " RESOLUTE " Went ahead to find a passage through a range of hummocks extended from the E. point of the island to the main. Found an excellent road, there being a kind of inlet, or bay of smooth ice, leaving but a very narrow isthmus of rugged ice to cross. On turning round I was surprised to find the sledges had taken another lead to the southward, which proved intricate, obliging us to double bank, and greatly endangered all the sledges. " North Star's " sledges in sight all the march. We were evidently nearing them. Pitched tents about two miles east of Moore Island ; wind light from the eastward since 4 p.m., with gloomy weather and a light fall of snow. Sunday^ 21sf At 3 p.m., proceeded on to the eastward ; first part of the march gloomy ; towards midnight, fine clear weather. Saw Browne, Low- ther, Garrett, Moore, and Baker islands, also the cairn I erected on Point Frazer in the spring of 1851. " North Star's " sledges ahead. Monday, 22nd. — At 1 A. m., pitched tents about five miles S. E. of Baker Island. " North Star's " sledges half a mile distant to the N.E. ; communi- cated with them ; found a party had just returned from pursuing five deer crossing M*Dougall Bay to the eastward. V' ;i TO "north star." 399 Shortly after we encamped, I heard the cook ex- claim, in a tone of surprise, " Here's a bear close to the tent, Sir! " I immediately rushed out of the tent, gun in hand, but Captain M'Clintock fired and wounded the animal just as I quitted the tent. I hoped to gain sufficiently on the bear, by running, to get a shot. In my eagerness to follow I was tripped by a rugged piece of ice, and fell, when one of tlie barrels went off, the ball passing close to my head. I can only account for the accident by attributing it to weak locks, for the gun was only half cocked, and I am not aware of the cock having caught any part of my dress. My escape from a severe wound, or probably death, was very providential. The unfortunate cause of the mischief was killed, after a hunt of a couple of miles. Monday, 4 r. m., again proceeded acros? • the mouth of M'Dougall Bay towards Browne Isli nd. AVind moderate from eastward ; weather cloudy ; about nine the wind veered to N. by W. and en- abled us to make sail. Tuesday, T6rd, 1 a.m., pitched tents about five miles W.N.W. of Browne Island. " North Star's " sledges about two miles to S. E. At 1 P.M., proceeded over a somewhat irregular 400 JOURNAL FROM " RESOLUTE " I I ' < r floe towards the south point of Browne Island. About eight passed close to the south end, skii ting very heavy hummocks thrown against the beach. "North Stars" in company; weather fine and clear; wind light from the northward ; sledges under sail. The captain having determined on dividing the march, pitched at 9 p.m. "North Stars" going ahead, as they travelled according to the old routine. Wednesday J 2ith. — At 1 a. m., struck tents and proceeded ; wind light and variable ; weather fine ; 2-30 sighted, " North Star's " tents ahead, and at 5*30 passed them, and shortly afterwards encamped. At 4 p.m. struck tents, and proceeded, with the " North Star's" sledges in company. At nine pitched tents about 4' W". by N. of Cape Martyr. Weather calm and clear. Thursday^ I a.m., struck tents and proceeded across a level floe to the eastward; three, passed Cape Martyr ; four, a breeze sprung up from the N. W. ; made sail ; at five encamped abreast of Resolute Bay, about two miles off shore. Saw cairn on Cape Martyr and Griffiths Island. At 3 p. m., wind,fresh from N. W., with gloomy weather, struck tents and proceeded under sail, over a very rugged road, making for the depot at TO "kortu stau." 401 Assistance Harbour, where we encamped about. 10-30, close to the tents of the " North Star." We found the dep6t in a very unsatisfactory state, the bread cases, containing bread, meat, pepper, mustard, &c., not only stowed indiscriminately, but the cases sadly out of repair, and liable to be af- fected by rain, &c. Friday, 262 Seen, not ex plored 1 So a 1 1 u 3 Si s s B 1 8^)3 1854 Totals. Chart! covere tionso 700 «09 68 77 768 886 7 7 1 22 5 2 1629 1629 22 4 ^m (;80 " 680 • 3 . . 6 ^ _ ^ 00 185 1574 26 4 '^^ 785 786 4 7 16 . 40 6 4 2 o 1275 . 7 4 •s'S^ - 1 8 • 80 . . b 114 » ea-w » ^ " 1 3 2 - 6 4 5 - - E S 188 196 384 o "-a 170 - 170 1 2 - - 2 16 - - (MB 168 136 636 4 1 g^s* 196 . 196 2 . . . _ _ . •c 332 "E*^ - - - 1 - 1 " 19 - - . s T3 193 193 8 1 •• - - - 2 1 - 8 4 2 - "x 164 154 1 1 - - - 6 - 30 - 3 - - - s. 1239 1239 1 - - - 6 1 2 5 14 - - - 1086 1086 ploye , and wer c - - - 1 . 12 - 2 30 • 6 . 2 304 306 2 ■ ~ 1 1 ■ 5 • • ~ 2 E 73 73 5 he forc( ers and wing th - - - 2 3 2 — 2 15 - - - a s 2 2 T offic alio men 1550 68 1618 543) 71 15 1790 77 1867 24 3 23 03 4 5 144 49 15 18 4 6.094 \ 639j 7.276 29 26 69 6 208 15 18 4 7.276 1 E K 4 i I ni ni ! 424 MEET COMMANDER SHERARD OSBORN. up any stray dovekies or ptarmigan. On rejoining us at Cape Grinnel, they reported having found in the depth of the bay the remains of a spar about eight feet in length. From their description, it ap- peared to be part of a trysail mast (? "Breadal- bane's "), for the marks of a lacing were quite apparent. They also found a record, left by Captain Stewart (of "Sophia") in 1851. When about six miles from Cape Bowden, met Mr. Pur- chase and party from " Assistance," with a whale- boat, on their way to Beechey Island. They were dragging the boat on her keel, the sledge built ex- pressly for the purpose, on the designs of Sir E. Belcher, having broken down, amongst a patch ot hummocks near Cape Osborn Tent. They had then been out five days, and all their provisions had been expended ; of course they would replenish from the dep6t for that purpose at Cape Bowden. The following March, at 0*30 a.m. on the 22nd, met Commander Osborn, with the dog sledge, about four miles from the Tent near Cape Osborn (named after him by Captain Penny in '51). lie had left the '' Pioneer " a few hours before, having been superseded by Lieut. Hamilton, and was then proceeding to the " North Star." On the 23rd, at 4 a.m., arrived on board the -SB;*-: ARRIVE ON BOARD "PIONEER." 425 E. " Assistance," saw Sir E. Belcher at nine, and gladly took up my quarters with my friend Hamilton on board his new command, the " Pioneer." During our journey of five marches, we had northerly winds, with fine weather. A few cracks were seen, but only one or two we could not jump over. The following distances from point to point will be found to be nearly correct. Miles. North Star (Beechey) to Point Innis 8 tent pitched 1' to the northward. Point Innis to Cape Bowden 14 tent on the point. Cape Bowden to Cape Grinnel 12 „ Cape Grinnel to Cape Osborn 14 tent '2,' south of the Cape. Cape Osborn to " Assistance " 5 Total 53 miles. The " Assistance " and " Pioneer " were within 200 yards of the shore, about midway, in a slight indentation, between two points of land, scarcely deserving the name of a bay. They were about 100 yards apart, the heads of both vessels being oiF shore. I found the " As- sistance " not only afloat, but relieved from her icy cradle, — much time and labour had been ex- pended to effect this object. Both vessels had lower yards and topmasts down, and, I must 426 CUT A CANAL ASTERN OF " PIONEER." confess, bore a stronger resemblance to two stranded ships than to British men-of-war. Whilst I remained, the whole force of men, considerably augmented by the " Resolute's " and " North Star's," were employed cutting a canal astern of the " Pioneer," for the purpose of grounding her keel to inspect her screw gear abaft, for the screw had been shipped during the past winter, as it could not be raised at the close of the navigable season in 1853. Cutting, chopping, and blasting were the orders of the day, the latter making the vessel tremble fore and aft, and causing sad ravages amongst all breakable articles, particularly crockery, which was the more annoying as their original stock had diminished to a quantity barely sufficient for their wants. The remains of two ice houses yet existed, but were rapidly thawing away, under the influence of the heat of the sun. The smaller of the two had been the observatory, whilst the larger, about 100 feet in length, had been used as a skittle alley during the winter. Close to the houses stood a solitary grave, con- taining the bodies of two men who had fallen during the past winter. The inscription was INSCRIPTION. 427 neatly stamped in capital letters on a plate of sheet lead, and was as follows : — SACRED TO THE MEMORY Or ISAAC BARNETT, CAPTAIN OF THE MAINTOP, H.M.S. "ASSISTANCE," AND GEORGE HARRIS, ALSO OF THAT SHIP, DOINQ DUTT ON BOARD H.M.S. TeNDEB " Pioneer." both departed this life under scorbutic affection, as under : GEORGE HARRIS ON THE IOtH DAT OF JanUART, 1854, AGED 33 TEARS; ISAAC BARNETT ON THE 27tH DAY OF JANUARY, 1854, AGED 27 TEARS; DESERVEDLY LAMENTED BY THEIR SHIPMATES. A FURTHER MEMORIAL \VILL BE DEPOSITED AT BeECHET IsLAND, CONTAINING THE NAMES OF ALL WHO HAVE UNFORTUNATELY YIELDED TO THE EFFECTS OP ARCTIC SERVICE IN THIS EXPEDITION. OFF THIS SPOT H.M.S. "ASSISTANCE" AND TeNDER WINTERED, IN 1853 — 54, AGROUND. The "Assistance" was in seven fathoms, the " Pioneer " in six, inside a range of heavy hum- mocks, aground ; both vessels had their anchors down. Easterly winds prevailed during my stay, but it was impossible to form a conjecture as to the probability of the ships being released during this season. I did no ship's duty, but was employed I 428 RETURN TO BEKCIIEY ISLAND. making two sketches for Sir E. Belcher, whom I accompanied, as of old, surveying. Shortly before I left for Beechey Island, the " Pioneer " floated, and the same day the screw was raised ; the cause assigned for not being able to do so in October last was attributed to the low state of temperature. July 5th. — Mr. Roche arrived with the dogs from the " North Star ; " and on the 8th, at 8 p.m., I left with him and the dog sledge to return to the " North Star." I was charged with four pocket watches, a duty I would gladly have dispensed with, for had I stumbled on my way down, some of them, and probably all, would have been ruined by water. On reaching Cape Osborn, we found an immense quantity of water on the floe, often reaching as high as the bearers of the sledge. Dovekies were plentiful in the numerous cracks, and a few dozen fell victims to our double barrels. On Sunday, at 2 A. m., landed at Cape Grinnel, and enjoyed a hot mess of dovekies, with other delicacies. We left at 6, much against the will of the dogs ; and after travelling through vast sheets of water up to the dogs' bellies, arrived at Cape Bowden, at 10*30 a. m. Here we again feasted, in company with Serg. Jefiries and Dix, the marine. DIFFICULT TRAVELLING FKOM CAPE BOWDEN. 429 who had not eaten a single bird during their long sojourn on this bleak point, though at the time of our arrival, there were no less than forty-eight dovekies hanging to the tent line. Here we re- mained until 10 p. M., sharing another good meal with the marines. Dix complained of his legs being weak, which he attributed to the presence of several black spots above the knee. On in- spection I was fully convinced the marks were scorbutic taints, but did not feel justified in taking him on to the *' North Star " for medical advice. The road from Cape Bowden proved to be the worst part of the journey, for cracks varying from six to twelve feet were numerous. The dogs were terrified at the water. There was, however, but one course to pursue : the poor animals were forced across the water, and then being started at full speed, rarely failed in drawing the sledge across, without immers- ing anything save the bottom of Halkett's boat, which is an invaluable auxiliary to arctic travelling, and may be considered indispensable when travelling from the middle of June to the close of the season. After no slight personal toil, through a mass of hummocks near Point Innis, where the road was almost indescribable, being composed of a mixture of rugged hummocks, cracks, snow and water waist- 430 ARRIVE ON BOARD THE "NORTH STAR." f / deep, we at length forded a noisy watercourse near Cape Spencer, and made for the shooting tent pitched about half a mile N.W. of the cape. Here we were welcomed by Dr. Scott, and regaled with hot tea and a savoury soup, prepared from the backs, necks, and the least fleshy parts of dovekies : the dogs were also feasted on the skins. At 8'45 A. M. we arrived on board the " North Star," and I delivered the four watches (one had stopped) to Captain Kellett, at the same time re- porting the state of the man Dix at Cape Bowden. Dr. Lyall advised his immediate recall, and the following day the poor dogs, foot-sore and weary as they were, left to bring him down ; a marine of the " Resolute " being despatched to supersede him as companion to the sergeant. July llth. — A small seal was captured alive in the floe, and at 5 A. m. on the 13th two bears were shot from the stern of the ship. At 4*20 p. m. the dogs returned with Dix, who was immediately placed under medical treatment. On the 14th the Cape Spencer shooting party returned, after an absence of eleven days, having during that period shot numerous* dovekies — the quantity sent on board being devoted exclusively to the use of the sick. SIR E. UELCIIER ARRIVES AT BEECIIEY ISLAND. 431 On the »>(] of v^^uly, the people on board this ship had commenced cutting and blasting, to release her from the ice, through which they had some difficulty in sawing, it being in many places eight feet thick. The ice was cut into rectangular pieces, and then parbuckled out. Some of them were of great weight. For instance, pieces eight feet long, six broad, and as many deep, would (by allowing 66 lbs per cubic foot) weigh no less than 7 tons 4 cwt., and many such pieces were drawn on the floe. On returning to the ** North Star," I found the finishing stroke was being put to the cairn on Beechey Island, built on the site of Franklin's cairn. It requires no description, as it was as close a representation of the one on Dealy Island as the architect and masons could make it. On the 15th of July, a small crack across Erebus Bay had opened out to six or eight feet. The despatch I brought to Captain Kellett from Sir E. Belcher, contained the news of the senior officer's intention to visit Beechey in the course of a week. At 9 p.m. on the 16th two sledges with boats were observed rounding Cape Spencer, from the northward. As was expected, they proved to be the parties led by Sir E. Belcher, for whose f I 432 LIEUT. MAY AND MR. JOHNSON LEAVE SHIP. accommodation Northumberland House had been made far more comfortable than could have been expected, though scarcely equal to a house bear- ing the same name near Charing Cross. Two officers and twenty men, were despatched to ren- der assistance if required. The sledges did not arrive until 2 a.m. on the 17th. The second party was in charge of Mr. Loney, bringing with him fifteen chronometers, to be placed under my charge. At 10*15 A.M., on the 19th, Lieut. May, of the " Assistance " and Mr. Johnson, acting boatswain of the " Resolute," left the ship, the former to the " Assistance," the latter to Cape Bowden, from whence he was to bring a boat. Signal posts were ordered to be erected at Point Innis, Cape Bowden, Cape Grinnel, and Cape Osborn Tent, in order to communicate with the " Assist- ance," in the event of its being found necessary to abandon that ship and her tender ; the signal for leaving them being any flag hoisted on Point Innis, to be repeated by the parties stationed at the other points and to the ship. IXst. — Mr. Loney and party left to rejoin *' Assistance." 2A.th, — Mr. Court (acting master) left with a ARRIVAL OF SIR E. BELCHER, C.B. 433 party of four men, to watch the tide at a crack about three miles west of Beechey North Point. He returned on the 26th, and reported the flood tide set to the northward, and continued doing so two hours after the time of high water at Beechey Island. He found the length of flood and ebb nearly equal, but the strength of the former was much greater than the current of the latter. Since the arrival of Sir E. Belcher, several car- penters, under Mr. Kerr of the " Assistance," have been employed on shore, repairing boats, altering the fittings of the house, building a cairn of pre- served meat tins, and preparing and erecting a wooden pillar, to the memory of those men who had fallen in this expedition, including the four men of " Investigator." Its elevation is about six feet above the ground, with octagonal sides, surmounted by a ball. In each of the eight sides tablets of sheet-lead were introduced, on which the various inscriptions were neatly stamped in capital letters.* Whilst on this subject, it would be as well to ob- serve that an addition of two head-boards had been made to the three erected by "Erebus" and 9 * Many of the illustrations are unavoidably omitted, a selec- tion only having been made from them in ray journal. F F 434 THE MONUMENT ON BEECHEY ISLAND. " Terror; " one was placed over the remains of poor Morgan, the other was erected to the memory of Lieut. Bellot of the French navy. The following are copied from the inscriptions on the boards : — 8ACBED TO THE MEMORY OF M. BELLOT, LIEUTENANT OF THE FBENCH NAVT ; VmO WAS DNFOBTUNATELY DROWNED, BY A SUDDEN DISRUPTION OF THE ICE, IN A HEAVY GALE OF WIND, ON THE MORNING OF TUB 18th day OF AUGUST, 1853, WHILST GALLANTLY LEADING A SHALL PARTY OF BRITISH SEAMEN FROM THE "NORTH star" up WELLINGTON CHANNEL, WITH DESPATCHES FOR THE ARCTIC SEARCHING EXPEDITION. SACRED TC THE MEMORY OF THOS. MORGAN, SEAMAN OF H.M.S. "INVESTIGATOR," WHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE ON BOARD OF H.M.S. "NORTH STAR," ON THE 22nd of may, 1854, AGED 36 YEARS. By grace are ye saved through faith, and that not o( yourselvei, it U the gift of God. Eph. chap. ii. terse 8. The duties from this period were general, and such as circumstances rendered necessary ; it would therefore be useless to enter into details. Every man was employed ; the principal portion of the LIBERATION OF " ASSISTANCE " AND "PIONEER." 435 crews in cutting and blasting canals ; mechanics variously on board and on shore. On the 7th, at H-15, Sir E. Belcher mustered the various officers and crews on board the " North Star." During the afternoon, Mr. Krabb^ left with a party for the purpose of fixing the position of Cape Bowden, and Mr. Court, with sledge, boat, and party, to examine the coast line as far as Cape Hurd for traces of Franklin, and to report on the state of the ice to the eastward. At 9, three of his crew returned for a stronger boat, the one they had taken with them having been injured and rendered unfit for service. Sth. — An officer and party commenced digging around the supposed site of the workshop of " Erebus " and " Terror ; " another party building a stone wall six feet high, from north and west sides of " Northumberland House." On the 11th, from the summit of Beechey, the main pack in Barrow's Straits was observed to be broken up, and slowly drifting down the straits. I had forgotten to observe, that one of Mr. Krabb^'s party arrived on board at 6 a.m., with despatches for Sir E. Belcher, from Commander Richards, re- porting the liberation of " Assistance " and " Pio- neer," from Disaster Bay, and their arrival at the F F 2 1 1 II 436 DEPARTURE OF SIR E. BELCHER AND PARTY. floe edge two miles south of Cape Osborn. The despatches left the " Assistance " at 1 1 a.m. on the morning of the 10th, and were thus conveyed a distance of forty-five miles in the short space of nineteen hours. 12th. — Mr. Krabb^ and party returned from Cape Bowden. I4:ih. — Mr. Shellabeer, second master, with two men, left for Point Innes, to repeat signals, and forward despatches. 17th. — Mr. Court returned, having found no traces of Franklin. He stated, that no great amount of water had been made until the previous night, when the strong northerly winds caused the ice to move off shore. From this period a very decided change took place in the movements of the pack, which slowly but surely, moved on to the eastward, leaving much water in Wellington Channel, and to the south- ward of our position. Sunday f 20th. — The canal was cleared of ice ; and about 6 p.m. commenced warping down, intend- ing to secure to the floe outside, but the inside floe giving way, blocked up the channel, barring further progress. The following day we succeeded in getting out, and secured to the edge of the fast ice. The men were employed provisioning ship "assistance" and '* pioneer" abandoned. 437 (principally from Cape Riley) to six months for 200 men. On the 22nd, Sir Edward Belcher left for " As- sistance," in his whale boat, accompanied by Com- mander M'Clintock, Mr. Court, Doctors Lyall and Scott, and Mr. Jenkins. The apparent object of this movement was to leave a certain number of men on board ** Assistance " and " Pioneer." Messrs. Court, Scott, and Jenkins were volunteers. There were rumours that if there should be no prospect of immediate release, the ships would be abandoned forthwith, and such proved to be the case, for at 7 a.m., on the 26th, Sir E. Belcher, Commander M'Clintock, and Dr. Lyall returned, with the news of the abandonment of the ships the previous day (the 25th of August), at 5 a.m. At 11*30 A.M., Sir Edward arrived on board the " North Star," after closing Northumberland House, depositing records, &c. At noon we cast off, intending to round south point of Beechey Island, to look out for the boats of " Assistance " and "Pioneer." The weather, however, became misty, with a heavy fall of snow, confining our range of vision to a very short distance. At 1*10 P.M., whilst below, I heard a man say, in a hurried tone, " A steamer off the point." A rush of all hands on deck took place as a matter of F F 3 [ 1 ■' 1. 438 ARRIVAL OF " PIKENIX " AND " TALBOT." course, and there, sure enough, to our intense gratifi- cation, we observed two dark shapeless masses off Cape Riley, which proved to be the "Phoenix," Captain Inglefield, and " Talbot," Commander Jenkins.* We gave them three hearty cheers on joining company, and feasted in imagination on perceiving fresh beef and numerous ducks, looms, and dovekies suspended from her davits, guys, and stem. Captain Inglefield, on coming on board, informed us of the war with Russia ; and soon after we were all engrossed with our letters from home. As was to have been expected, many changes had taken place since we last heard from England. Several, including myself, heard of the death of dear friends, which cast a shadow on the pleasure we experienced in perusing letters from those yet remaining. In tow of " Phoenix," we again secured to the land ice, near our old position of the forenoon ; and arrangements were immediately entered into for the equal distribution of the various crews between the three ships. All the boats had arrived from "Assistance" and "Pioneer" by 5 p.m., when I was despatched to Point Innes in a boat to bring on board the last party under the command of * Now commanding H.M.S. " Comus MARBLE TABLET TO LIEUT. BELLOT. 439 Mr. Court, who had walked from Cape Bowden, in consequence of want of accommodation in the boats. On my return, about 9 p.m., I found nearly all my shipmates, including the captain, had gone on board the " Plioenix." I, however, remained in the " North Star," for the purpose of keeping watch on the passage home. Sunday^ 27th, — This forenoon, M. de Bray, in the presence of the officers in command of the respective ships, who attended for the purpose, to- gether with a party of. marines, erected the marble tablet, sent out from England, as a memorial of the valuable services, and melancholy death, of his brother officer and countryman, Lieut. Bellot. On its being secured to the wooden monument before alluded to, three volleys were fired in honour of the departed. The inscription is as follows : — IN MEHORT OF LIEUTENANT BELLOT OF THE FRENCH NAVT, WHO LOST HIS LIFE WHILST NOBLT AIDING IN THE SEARCH FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN, IN THE WELLINGTON CHANNEL ON THE 18th AUGUST, 1853. This tablet To record the sad event Was erected by his friend John Barrow, A. D. 1854. F F 4 440 LEAVE BEECIIEY ISLAND FOR ENGLAND. 'l At 1 P.M., our little squadron slipped from the ice, and, in tow of the " Phoenix," proceeded to the eastward, with little regret, on the part of any one, on leaving these inhospitable regions, except that we had failed to discover the missing crews of the " Erebus " and " Terror." As we advanced, we found a broad "lead" of water, ten or twelve miles in width, extending along the northern shore. To the southward of the " lead," and particularly in the neighbourhood of Leopold Island, the ice appeared closely packed, nor could we perceive any water beyond it to the southward. It was generally understood that Sir Edward Belcher intended calling at Port Leopold, if pos- sible, for the purpose of leaving two boats, and depo- siting a record of our past and future movements, with all information respecting the dep6ts, &c. Our not calling is to be regretted, for it is quite within the bounds of possibility that some of the crew of the " Enterprise " were at that moment awaiting succour within thirty miles of our position. On the morning of the 29th, we were off Port Dundas, but were unable to communicate, as I believe was intended, in consequence of loose pack ice, which, commencing here, extended to the southward for a distance of twenty miles. Skirting its western edge, we ran into Navy Board inlet. DEPOT INJURED (?) BY ESQUIMxVUX. 441 where we anchored at 4'55 p.m. within the "Wol- laston," and about half a mile from the dep6t left by Mr. Saunders, in this ship, in 1850. This depot had been visited by Captain Ingle- field on his passage up the sound, when twenty-six casks of rum were missing, and all the other casks were found to be stove in by some rude blunt instrument. All the injured casks, containing flour, peas, salt meat, &c., were taken on board the " Phoenix," and the following day she called at Port Dundas, where they found about twenty Esquimaux ; but although a strict search was made for any article likely to convict them of the injury, no satisfactory evidence was obtained of their being the marauders. It will be recollected that this tribe was discovered by Captain Inglefield during his previous voyage to Beechey Island in 1853. The little community at Port Dundas possessed kayacks of larger dimen- sions than those generally used by Esquimaux, were well supplied with dogs, and, judging from their healthy appearance, were doubtless success- ful in hunting seal and deer. Numerous traces of the latter animal were seen by Captain Om- manney, who discovered the port in 1850 ; but none were seen, nor was it supposed at the time, that any natives were in the neighbourhood. 'i ( I' 1 442 LOSE AN ANCHOR, KTC. The crews of the various ships were fully employed till midnight on the 29th coaling the *'Pluunix," and watering the "Talbot." The following morning the wind blew hard from the S. W. (right on the shore) : veering on the port bower; the small ditto was "dropped under foot." During the forenoon the wind increased to a gale, with a heavy ground swell. Housed top-gallant masts. Our position was anything but a pleasant one, for we were aware of the bad nature of the ground (rock) for holding (the "North Star" lost un anchor and cable in 1850), and we were in but five fathoms, with the ground gradually shoaling to the rocky shore about one-third of a mile distant. At 1 1 A.M., the port cable parted just within the fourth shackle; cable ^vas immediately veered on the small bower ; the sheer took us within a ship's breadth of the " Talbot : " fouling her would have been to lose both ships. We did not " bring up " until we had veered to six shackles, with three and a half fathoms under her stern. In the meantime, a party was employed clearing away, and stocking waist anchor, which was let go, as a matter of precaution, some time after the ship had brought up. UHQAIN ANOTIIEU ANCIIOU. •M3 The " Phoenix " sent a liawscr, and attempted to tow us ahead, but witliout success. Towards evening the wind moderated, and shifted round to the westward ; the steamer again attempted to go ahead with us in tow, when the bight of the towing luiwser was found to be foul of something on the bottom. After considerable time and labour, we hove up, to our great astonishment, the anchor and five shackles of bower cable lost by the " North Star " in 1850; we found the towing hawser curiously Iiitched round one of the flukes, and we had some little difficulty in clearing it. At 7 P.M. we were again on the move, in tow of " Phoenix," and after skirting, within a cable's length, a rocky point on which the sea was break- ing heavily, we kept away to the eastward, along the land, with a flowing sheet. During the forenoon of the day following, wo passed Possession Bay, and enjoyed a magnificent view of the Byam Martin Mountains, which rise in a series of snow-clad peaks to a greater elevation than any other land on this coast. Bergs were numerous in all directions. At 1 P.M., the " Phoenix," casting off, proceeded to Pond's Bay, leaving us to stand off under easy 1 441 OFF THE ULACK HOOK. sail. At 10 T.M.y she rejoined, and again took us in tow. No natives were seen. Sept. 1st. — Wind strong from N.W. 7 a.m., cast off and hove to till noon — we all wondered why — but afterwards found some gear connected with the siiaft had become deranged. At noon bore up and made sail to the south- ward, the old craft astonishing herself and us by going eight knots an hour. Sept. 2nd. — At eight, taken in tow, just after entering loose sailing ice, through which we were threading our way the whole day, frightening numerous young rotges that were disporting them- selves in the water. Sept. Srd. — About 6 a.m., a bear was obser\ ed swimming in the water, between the loose pack close to the ship, — a strange position for master Bruin, who, notwithstanding the distance from the land (upwards of 150 miles), appeared to be enjoy- ing himself mightily. Sept. Ath. — Cast off and made sail for Lievely. At 10 P.M., we lost sight of our consorts, and during the night remained becalmed off the Black Hook in close proximity to several bergs ; of which unplea- sant neighbours there were about eighty in sight. Ship in from fifteen to twenty fathoms. ANCHOR OFF LIKVELY. 445 During the middle watch (of the 5th), I was obliged to have the ship towed clear of a berg. The morning was beautifully fine, and I observed one of the finest meteors I ever saw ; it descended from the eastern quarter of the heavens at an angle of 30°, with the horizon, and its brilliancy equalled a star of the first magnitude. Almost simultaneously with its fall, I heard a sharp report resembling the firing of a rifle, and thought for the moment it was connected with the meteor; but afterwards, hearing a succession of similar noises, found they were caused by the splitting of some of the numerous bergs around us. Light variable airs prevented our sighting the entrance to Lievely until the 9th, and on this day the variable wind, light and squally alternately, placed us somewhat too near a dangerous rock (marked on the chart), about eight miles to the S.W. (true) of Lievely. The sea was breaking violently over it. This danger should be carefully avoided, for, although it may appear strange, it is nevertheless true, that at a little distance the white foam is liable to be mistaken for one of the numerous berg-pieces in the neighbourhood, more particularly on a moon- light night. Early the following morning, the lOth, we 446 SAIL FROM LIEVELY. I anchored at the entrance of the Harbour Channel, in seven fathoms (rock) ; on v*;ering to six shackles, found the ship in forty-five fathoms. N.B. This is the second time I have been anchored near this position. Avoid doing so if possible. / would infinitely prefer standing off and on outside. "VVe communicated with " Phoenix " and " Tal- bot " in the inner harbour ; the former had arrived on the 5th, the latter on the 7th. The " Phoenix " and " Talbot " were to leave the next morning ; but, 'as our position was unsafe. Commander PuUen obtained permission to stand off and on during the night. At 5 p.m., we weighed, and were not surprised to find an arm of the anchor gone. At 10 A.M., on the 11th, the "Phoenix" and " Talbot " joined company, and with a fresh northerly wind, we bore up under all sail to the southward. We kept the shore close aboard until abreast of Holsteinborg, where we expected to call, but to our satisfaction the course was altered to gain a greater offing. On the 12th and 14th, brilliant auroras flitted across the heavens; the stars, though slightly dimmed in lustre, were distinctly visible through the brightest portions of the phenomena, and I also remarked that the clear sky appeared like dense RETURN TO ENGLAND AND COURT MARTIAL. 447 black clouds, compared with other portions of the heavens that were overcast. After passing Cape Farewell, we parted company from our consorts, the " Phcenix " and " Talbot," in a gale of wind, nor did we again meet them until our arrival in England, during the first week in October. The abandonment of so many ships naturally excited great interest and much discussion, and the proceedings of the court martial, which, as a matter of course, was held on the various officers in com- mand, were watched with no common interest. The Court was held on board the " Waterloo," at Sheerness, and occupied three days, viz., tho 18th, 19th, and 20th October. Admiral the Hon. George Gordon presided; the other officers com- prising the Court were Captains Sir Thomas Pasley, of the "Royal Albert-," Wyvill, of the " Wellesley ; " Tucker, of the "Formidable;" Keith Stewart, of the " Nankin ; " Seymour, of the " Cumberland ; " and Fanshawe, of the " Cossack." Mr. W. W. Hay ward officiated as judge-advocate. The first case proceeded with was the abandon- ment of the " Investigator." Her captain, the pre- sent Sir Robert L. M. M'Clure, justified his leaving his ship by producing written orders to that effect, from his senior officer. Captain Kellett. 448 ACQUITTAL OF SIR ROBERT M'CLURE. The prosecution in this case being merely nomi- nal, occupied but a short time. The verdict of the court, after a short absence, was to the effect that Captain M'Clure, and the officers and crew of the " Investigator," deserve the highest commendation for their exertions, and that each and all were fully acquitted. The Admiral, in restoring Captain M'Clure's sword, observed: "The court are of opinion that your conduct throughout your arduous exertions, has been most meritorious and praiseworthy." The court then proceeded to inquire into the cause and circumstances attending the loss of the " Resolute." Captain Henry Kellett, C.B., being asked if he had any statement to make, pleaded orders produced from Sir Edward Belcher, C. B., ordering him to abandon the "Resolute" and her steam tender " Intrepid." Extracts from several letters bearing on the abandonment, some of them being marked confidential, were then read by the express order of the court. One letter from Sir Edward Belcher to Captain Kellett, dated in Feb. 7. 1854, contained a " request " that Captain Kellett would, with the officers and crews of the " Resolute " and " Intrepid," meet Sir Edward at Beechey Island bef ^'e tj^e 2Dth August. To this letter Captain ACQUITTAL OF CAPT. KELLETT, CB. 449 L being Kellett replied that he had come to the conclusion, that nothing contained in his orders would justify him in abandoning the ships under his command ; and therefore begged Sir Edward Belcher (who was in possession of the orders from Government), to send him " final, decided, and most unmistakeable orders," and further, in a private letter of the same date, Captain Kellett, declared it to be the unani- mous opinion of all on board the " Resolute," that they would not suffer from the first break up, as the ice was only of the previous year's formation. To these letters Sir Edward returned an answer, datv ' April 21st, directing Captain Kellett towith- dr • everything valuable from the ships under his command, and with the officers and crews to proceed for further instructions to Beechey Island. This order released Captain Kellett from all responsibility connected with the abandonment, and the court returned a verdict of honourable acquittal to Captain Kellett, the officers, and crew. The admiral restored Captain Kellett's sword, ob- serving that he experienced much satisfaction in returning a sword which the owner had worn with so much credit, satisfaction, and advantage to his country. G G !i V 450 ACQIHTTAL OF SIR EDWARD BELCHER, C.B. The trial of Sir Edward Belcher then commenced, and after the examination of various witnesses for the prosecution. Sir Edward read a lengthened and clever defence, in which he touched on all the oc- currences of the voyage likely to justify the deter- mination he ultimately a'Tived at. He also quoted various authorities, and read long extracts from his instructions bearing on the subject. After the defence, the court remained closed for an hour and a half, at the end of that time the Deputy Judge- Advocate read the finding of the court, which was to the following effect : — *' The court is of opinion that the abandonment of H. M. S. * Investigator ' was directed by Captain Kellett, who was justified in giving such order. The court is further of opinion that, from the great confidence reposed in Captain Sir Edward Belcher by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, and the ample discretionary powers given to him, he was authorised and did not act beyond his orders, in abandoning H. M. S. * Assistance ' and her tender, * Pioneer,' or in directing the abandonment of H.M.S. * Resolute' and her tender * Intrepid;* although, if circumstances had permitted, it would have been advisable that he should have consulted ACQUITTAL OF SIB EDWARD BELCHER, C B. 451 with Captain Kellett previously. And the court doth adjudge the said Captain Sir Edward Belcher to be acquitted, and he is hereby acquitted ac- cordingly." The president then returned Sir Edward Belcher liis sword, and the court broke up. o o 2 452 CHAP. XVIL Recoveiy and Restoration of H.M.S. ** Resolute." Few events in the annals of the civilised world are so deserving of permanent record, as the restora- tion of H.M. Discovery ship "Resolute" to the Queen of England, by our Transatlantic brethren. By such a graceful proof of their affection for the old country, they have lessened party animosity, silenced the noisy declamations of stump orators on both sides of the Atlantic, and have funded a capital of good will in the hearts of all true Englishmen. The abandonment of a ship under similar cir- cumstances is, I believe, without precedent — her recovery is equally novel, and her restoration unparalleled. The narrative of the finding of the old ship, which has now attained an enviable notoriety, is compiled from documents kindly placed at my disposal by John Barrow, Esq., F.R.S., and Robert Postans, Esq., of Southsea, to whom, as well as to Ezekiel Emanuel, Esq., of Portsmouth, I beg to offer my sincere thanks for the valuable assistance I have derived in conse- KECOVERY OF II.M.S. " RESOLUTE." 453 quence of the kind interest they have taken in the present narrative. The following account is extracted aln ost ver- batim from the " New York Herald," December 27, 1855. (( On the 29th May last, the whaling barque * George Henry,' Captain James M. Buddington, set sail from New London Coast, on a voyage to Northumberland Inlet and Davis Straits. The bark was manned with a crew of seventeen men, including the first and second mates. On the 14th June, and while in latitude 54°, Captain Bud- dington encountered, quite unexpectedly, large fields of ice, through which he dared not penetrate. However, wishing to arrive at his destination as soon as possible, he followed the edge of the " pack," as far as latitude 67°. As the ship was much damaged by the floating ice. Captain Buddington concluded to wear out the season here, and accordingly the crew of the barque were em- ployed in catching whales in, and about Esco Bay, with only tolerable luck, however. The floes are represented as being very extensive, str<3tching far and wide to the north, and completely blocking up the channel to Davis Straits. From the masthead of the * George Henry,' no- thing could be distinguished but masses of ice. Even with the aid of the telescope, nothing but mountains could be descried in the distance. " On the 20th August, and while off Cape Walsingham, in lat. 67° N., the ice became, to a certain extent, pene- trable, and the barque was forced through it in a south- west direction for about 150 miles. At this time a heavy G G 3 I 'Ml i I I [I 454 RECOVERY AND RESTORATION gale from the north-east sprung up, which, lasting three days, the * George Henry ' became unnavigable, and was drifted in the floe in a south-west direction. Captain Buddington saw land, but could not say to what continent it belonged. " On the 10th September, lat. 67" N., and, while in this field of ice. Captain Buddington discovered a ship in the distance, bearing north-east, about twenty miles from Cape Mercy. He ascended the rigging of his craft, and, looking at her through the glass, pronounced her, from her appear- ance, to be an abandoned vessel. The head of the stronger appeared to be due east, and during the whole of thi t day and the one following, the course of the ship did not vary mure than a point or so from the east. ' We kept gradu- ally nearing one another,' as Captain Buddington says, * although I could not exactly say what caused the thing to come about, except, perhaps, the ship may have been struck by a counter current from Davis Straits, and driven towards us in that manner. For five days we were in sight of one another, and continued to drift towards each other. On the sixth day after making the discovery, and when the ship was about seven miles off. Captain Bud- dington ordered the two mates and two of the crew to pro- ceed to the abandoned vessel across the packed ice, and, after inspecting her, to return to the barque as soon as practicable. " Soon after the departure of the party a south-easter ifprung up, and, in consequence thereof, no communication was had with those on board the ship for two days. As soon as the wind subsided, and it was safe for the party to retrace their steps, they left the ship, and, after a tedious and hard march, arrived on board the bnrque in OF H.M.S. " RESOLUTK." 455 safety. They immediately representetl the facta to Captain Buddington, saying that the abandoned vessel was Her Britannic Majesty's ship * Resolute.' " The * Resolute ' being entirely free of water, prepa- rations were made to bring the ship to the United States. Captain Buddington decided to sail the vessel himself, and accordingly, taking eleven men with him from his own barque, he began in good earnest to release the abandoned vessel from her ice-bound situation. The rigging had to be ' set up,' and the sails put in order, before he could venture to start. These jobs occupied him some time, but were successfully accompliished. Captain Buddington was in a great dilemma for proper navigating instruments, and the wherewith to bring him to New London after being released from the ice. His compass was not at all trust- worthy ; he was without a chronometer, and had no otlier map or chart to steer by, than a rough outline of the great North American coast, drawn on a sheet of foolscap. With his lever watch, a quadrant, and a miserable compass, the brave fellow bade adieu to his comrades in the barque * George Henry,' and, trusting to Providence and his expe- rience in those latitudes, prepared to bring home the prize he had so cleverly won. ** From the time that Captain Buddington took charge of the 'Resolute,' up to the 16th of October, she continued to drive in a S.W direction with the pack of ice, when she succeeded in getting clear. Wishing to be in company as long as possible with the barque. Captain Buddington waited on the outside of the floe for three or four days, with the hope of meeting her, but the vessels missed one another, and did not meet again during the remainder of the eventful voyage. u 4 456 HECOVEKY AND RESTORATION I ' " Wliile here waiting for the * George Henry,' the British barque, * Alibi,' hove in sight, and, on being sig- nalled, came alongside the ' Resolute.' The news of the recovery of the * Resolute ' was communicated to Captain Stuart, of the * British' barque, and a pair of Captain Kcllett's epaulettes, found on board the abandoned vessel, were entrusted to him by Captain Buddington, with in- structions to have them forwarded to the owner as speedily as possible. They were sent by Captain Stuart to Mr. Barrow, who forwarded them to Commodore Kellet in the West Indies, and were duly received by him in perfect order for attending a drawing-room if required, not being soiled in the slightest degree. A letter for the owners of the * George Henry,' informing them of what had occurred, wr.s also placed in the hands of Captain Stuart, who promised to mail it immediately on his arrival in Great Britain. [This letter, it appears, reached the owners of the barque, at New London, Connecticut, long before the * Resolute ' arrived there.] " "We now come to the homeward voyage. Short- handed, poorly rigged, and unfitted for the long voyage as the ' Resolute ' was, Captain Buddington found it no easy task to bring the ship into port. The water-tanks had burst in the hold long before he came in possession of her, rendering her very light and apt to roll heavily in the trough of the sea. Gale after gale was experienced ; yet the brave fellow laboured day and night, and at last was successful in the praiseworthy effort made to rescue the abandoned vessel, driving across the mouth of Northum- berland Inlet down to Cape Elizabeth. The open sea was gained, and on the 20th October the homeward voyage commenced. After a succession of strong gales and head the OF H.M.8. " RESOLUTE. it 457 winds, the New London lighthouse wns made on t)ie 24th December, and the voyage wns successfuliy accomplished with credit to all concerned, but especially to Captain Buddington, for he worked morning, noon, and night. " It is the opinion of Captain Buddington that, if the crew of the ' Resolute ' had remained on board of her, with the hope of eventually releasing her, they could not have effected the ta$k any sooner than it was performed by the natural causes which eventually freed her." Respecting this last paragraph, however, I must beg to differ from Captain Buddington, who, nearly 1000 miles from the scene of the ship's abandon- ment, could form but a vague conjecture respect- ing the probable extrication of the vessel ; and I may be allowed to observe that the above opinion is in direct opposition to the testimony of Captains Kellett and M*Clintock, as well as myself, at the Court-Martial on our return to England. Our evidence on that occasion is fully borne out by the result. I may further be permitted to correct the erro- neous statement that has gone the round of the papers, respecting the locality of the abandonment. It is, I believe, the generally received impression that the vessel was ^^ frozen in amongst icebergs in latitude 77° N." whilst the actual fact is, that no icebergs were nearer probably than 300 miles, the 458 RECOVERY AND RESTORATION ice around the ship forming one vast plain, whose level was only relieved by occasional masses of packed ice, thrown on its surface by pressure during the previous autumn. The latitude of the abandonment was 74* 41' N. and not 77^ On the arrival of the " Resolute " at the port of New London, the English minister, Mr. Crampton, laid claim to a continuing right on behalf of Her Majesty, in virtue of a notice to that effect published in the " London Gazette " of November 10, 1854. But after communicating with the Home Govern- ment, Mr. Crampton had the pleasing duty of stating that Her Majesty waived all claim and right to the vessel, leaving her at the disposal of the gallant Captain Buddington, by whose skill and exertion she had been extricated from her icy prison, at no little peril to himself and followers. It must indeed have been a sad and desolate scene, that presented itself to the American on breaking open the well caulked hatches, and allow- ing the first gleam of light to penetrate the interior of the ship after a space of sixteen months. How strange the human voice must have sounded in that deserted ship, once manned by as gallant a crew as ever faced danger, and distinguished for OF H.M.8. " RESOLUTE." 150 the happiness they enjoyed amidst the wilds of Arctic desolation. For a year and four montl.^ no human foot had trod the deck of that phantom ship, yet, amid those savage solitudes, where man there was none, and might never be, the pilot's wheel made a stern proclamation ; for around it were inscribed in letters of brass, the immortal words, *' England expects that every man will do his duty." In the Navy, some ships in themselves bear a name for being comfortable or otherwise, and this circumstance is well known to Jack, who chooses accordingly. It is no theory of mine, but a well authenticated fact, that the seeds of discord, like the African fever, are seldom wholly eradicated from a ship ; and I would suggest a change of name in the latter, as well as in the former case. The old " Resolute," under Captain Austin during her first voyage to the Arctic regions in 1850, earned for herself a well-deserved reputation as a happy ship ; her chief was one who had esta- blished his character as an energetic and zealous officer, in every quarter of the globe, and no man was better adapted to carry out the arduous service, on which the Expedition was engaged. Active in mind and body, doing his duty faithfully, and de- ? t i 1 ) f mi 460 RECOVEKY AND RESTORATION ' I inanding the same from all under his command, he well knew when to unbend ; and was always fore- most in promoting good humour, and diverting the mind from the gloomy prospects of an arctic winter, which, as Sir Edward Parry observes, " would some- times obtrude itself on the stoutest heart," The kindly disposition of Captain Austin, his suavity of manner and thorough goodness of heart, were eminently conspicuous throughout. The comfort of each individual member of the squadron under his command, was one of the principal objects he had in view, and its due accomplishment — I firmly believe — was necessary to his own happiness. And well did her last commander. Captain Henry Kellett, sustain the character the old ship had acquired during her previous voyage ; for, under his supervision, every arrangement that thoughtfulness could suggest, was made to pass the dreary season of winter in health and happiness, and indeed tha valuable assistance derived from the experience of Commander Francis M'Clintock, Lieut. George F. Mecham, R. V. Hamilton, Mr. Krabb^, Master of " Intrepid," and other officers who had already wintered within the Arctic circle, was in itself sufficient to insure success in the in- struction and amusement of the whole. In every OF II.M.S. " RKSOLUTE." 4G1 land, he ys fore- ting the : winter, Id some' ' The suavity 't, were 3omfort under ents he ' firrnly s. kptain d ship 3; for, that iss the oiness, from ntock, Mr. fficers nrcle, le in- every good work, in every useful purpose, whether for the benefit of mind or body, the co-operation of Captain Kellett was, as a matter of course, reckoned on ; nor did he confine himself to countenancing, but joined personally, in everything tending to alleviate the monotony of an arctic winter. I feel no apology is necessary in taking a retro- spective view of the causes which authorise my statement that the old " Resolute " was indeed a happy ship. Captain Buddington, on descending below, found the vessel in a deplorable state. The water-tanks had burst, and the hold was full of water, whilst all perishable articles were almost entirely destroyed by cold and damp. Scarcely anything on board, save the salt provisions in casks, and preserved meats in hermetically sealed tins, that had not suf- fered from the intense hyperborean frost. The cordage, canvas, sails, &c., were all more or less injured, and the gallant Americans had no little difiiculty in making the gear they found on board answer the desired purpose of taking the ship into an American port. The vessel herself, however, had, strange t9 say, escaped any material injury, after a self-directed voyage of no less than nearly 1000 miles, along a 1 H i 1 ; ; 1^ 1 ■ 462 RECOVERY AND RESTORATION |i ( f' f: track abounding in perils, not only from rocks, shoals, and other dangers which a ship is heir to, but those ever moving icy plains, and mighty crystal mountains, that sail in undisputed sway, and form the terror of the Arctic Ocean. Immediately the determination of the British Government to waive all claim to the ship was made known ; a graceful act was carried out by the Congress, worthy of the representatives of a great nation. This was no less than the purchase of the " Resolute " for the sum of 40,000 dollars ; after which she was removed to one of the navy yards of the United States, and there repaired and refitted with every care, in order to carry out the noble intention of the American people, of re- storing the old ship (again ready for Arctic service in every respect), as an offering of good will to the Queen and people of Great Britain ; a noble inci- dent in the history of nations, alike honourable to the donors and recipients. On the 13th November, the "Resolute" left New York, fully equipped in every respect, even to the minutest detail, on her voyage of good will ; and jafter a protracted passage, reached Spithead on the 12th December; when, on letting go her anchor in English water, the St. George's Cross of ;M! OF H.M.S. "resolute, )> 463 Old England was displayed beside the stars and stripes of America. The " Resolute " was, on this occasion, com- manded by Captain Hartstein Oi the United States Navy ; an officer who himself had some experience of Arctic matters, having commanded the American Expedition fitted out for the relief of Dr. Kane and party, with whom they returned in 1855. The other officers, all distinguished in their profession, consisted of Lieuts. C. H. Wells, E. E. Stone, and Hunter Davidson, Dr. R. T. Maccoun, and Dr. Otis, acting secretary. With such care and attention had the repairs and re-equipment been performed, that not only had the ship's stores, even to flags, been replaced, but even the officers' libraries, musical boxes, pictures, &c., had been preserved, and with an excellent taste, which reflects much credit on those who superintended the regulations, had all been restored to their original positions. They are all, I believe, in the storehouses at Chatham. Her Majesty having expressed a wish to visit the ship, she was towed to Cowes, and there secured alongside the royal embarcation place at Trinity Wharf. The " Retribution " was anchored near for the purpose of firing salutes, whilst in the Roads ,[\\ «" r 464 RECOVERY AND RESTORATION her Majesty's yachts " Elfin " and " Fairy," with numerous gun-boats, tended to make a holiday scene of the auspicious event. The " Resolute " was dressed in colours, the English and American ensigns floating amicably together at the peak ; and on the Queen's stepping her foot on board, the royal standard was hoisted at the main. The royal party, consisting of Her Majesty, Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales, the Princess Royal, and the Princess Alice, accompanied by a numerous suite, were received by Captain Hartstein at the gangway, whilst grouped on either side were the of!7.?.ers of the ship in full uniform, as well as many distinguished American visitors, all of whom were in turn presented to the Queen by Captain Hartstein, who then addressed her Majesty in the following words: "Allow me to welcome your Majesty on board the * Resolute,' and, in obedience to the will of my countrymen and of the President of the United States, to restore her to you, not only as an evidence of a friendly feeling to your sovereignty, but as a token of love, admiration, and respect to your Majesty personally." The Queen, who was evidently touched by the manly simplicity of the frank and sailor-like Vi OF II.M.S. " RESOLUTE." 465 ," with holiday rs, the nicably Pepping hoisted [ajesty, 'rincess id by a irtstein ie were well as whom iaptain in the your dience sident , not your ation, y the >r.like address of the gallant captain, replied, with a gracious smile, " / thank yoUj SirJ^ The Royal party then went over the ship, and examined her with manifest interest. Captain Hartstein traced her course on a map, and indicated the most important discoveries of the American Arctic Expeditions. After completing the inspection of the ship, the royal party retired amid the enthusiastic acclama- tions of the spectators — the Queen having invited Captain Hartstein to dine and spend the night at Osborne ; whilst the officers were allowed the privilege of visiting the palace and grounds. Her Majesty also ordered 100/. to be distributed amongst the crew. On Wednesday " the Resolute " was taken in tow by the " Echo," and left Cowes harbour, amid the cheers of the inhabitants, in company with the " Re- tribution " and " Sprightly." On passing Osborne, the American colours were dipped on board the " Re- solute," and the " Retribution" fired a royal salute. On reaching Spithead the " Shannon" was passed, on her way to the measured mile at Stoke's Bay. The colours were again dipped, and the men filled the shrouds, and gave three hearty cheers. On nearing the harbour, at about four o'clock, a II H : «i '5.1 1 • ( i I I k\ 466 RECOVERY AND RESTORATION royal salute was fired from the garrison battery. The Victoria Pier was gaily dressed with flags, and was covered with spectators, who heartily cheered them on passing. The band of the 22nd Regiment was in attendance on the pier, and played " Cheer boys, cheer," and other popular airs. On passing the Common Hard and the *' Victory," the cheers were again repeated ; and in each instance were acknow- ledged by the officers on deck and the crew in the rigging of the " Resolute." The " Resolute " dropped anchor in the harbour abreast of the King's-stairs, when Captain Hartstein assembled all his officers around the table in the state cabin, and in a bumper of champagne pro- posed " the health of the Queen of Great Britain : God bless her ! " which was most vociferously responded to. Numerous were the invitations that were showered on the gallant officers of the " Resolute " during their short stay in England ; but the most signifi- cant, in point of kindly feeling and importance, was the Portsmouth Banquet, at the Portland Hotel, Southsea. Into no better hands than the Corpora- tion of Portsmouth, could have fallen the honour of welcoming and extending the hand of fellowship, to those who were chosen to be the messengers to the OF H.M.S. "resolute." 467 Queen, the Goveriinient, and the people of this country, of the kindly feelings entertained towards them by the Government and people of the United States ; by the delivery into the hands of our sovereign, of the "Christmas present," from the child towards the parent. The entertainment was such as might have been expected from the well-known liberality of the body with whom the banquet originated; the guests were numerous and distinguished, including, by a delicate and generous foresight, the British officers, late of the " Resolute." There was, however, one present deserving of more than passing notice. I allude to Mr. Cornelius Grinnell, the son of a noble-minded and generous man, who (to his eternal honour, be it said,) animated by the spirit of pure philan- thropy, at his own cost and risk, fitted out two vessels to assist in attempting the rescue of the subjects of a foreign state, but whom, with the feelings of a true Christian, he regarded as brothers. This disinterested action will never be forgotten. Generations yet unborn, whilst comparing it with those of the Howards, Wilberforces, and Frys, will perpetuate the fame of the donor of the princely gift; and contemplate with unfading esteem the H 11 2 468 H i V > RECOVERY AND RESTORATION revered name of the American citizen and philan- thropist, Henry Grinnell. The " Resolute " was naturally an object of much interest, and was crowded with visitors from far and near. Amongst the stores found on board, were several puncheons of fine old rum, shipped previous to her leaving England in 1852. One of these puncheons was presented to Prince Albert, by Captain Hartstein, as a relic of the " Resolute." It would have been more gratifying to the public, could the stay of the gallant Americans in England have been prolonged. Liverpool longed for the honour of receiving and entertaining them, and that being impossible, despatched a deputation from the Shipowners' Association, to offer the congratu- lations of its members, and accept ^' the munificent gifts of the President and people of America," as an additional pledge of unity. On Tuesday morning the deputation from the Shipowners* Association of Liverpool, comprising Mr. S. R. Graves, chairman, Mr. James Smith, and Mr. F. A. Clint, who had requested and obtained per- mission to present an address to Captain Hartstein, arrived at Portsmouth and inspected the " Victory," and Clarence-yard, whence they were embarked by Mr. John Davies, master-attendant of that esta- OF II.M.S. " RESOLUTE." 469 blishment, accoinpanit'd by Mr. James Garratt, of the firm of Garratt, Gibbon, and Sons, agents to Lloyd's, for the " Resolute." They were received at the gangway by Captain Hartstein and officers, and conducted below. After an introduction, the deputation were invited to the quarter-deck, where the officers and crew were assembled, together with Chevalier Pappalardo, the Vice-Consul, and Mr. Davies. Mr. Graves then addressed Captain Hartstein as follows : — the per- Jtein, ory," dby esta- ** By desire of the Shipowners' Association of Liver- pool, we are here to-day to offer to you the congratu- lations of its members on your safe arrival on our shores. The circumstances which have led to this auspicious event indicate that in the exercise of humanity, intrepidity, and sympathy, our countries nobly emulate each other, and it is impossible to foresee the benefits which may result to mankind from a rivalry between two great nations in the frequent interchange of those ennobling sentiments of our nature. It has not pleased Providence to bless with suc- cess the generous and bold efforts of your country to restore to us — I will not say lost — our missing countrymen, yet who can say the sacrifices made have not met with a high reward ? for this ship, after human skill had failed to ex- tricate her from the apparent destruction which awaited her, has been miraculously preserved, that she might be the means of affording the people of America a further opportunity for evincing their strong sympathy, and draw- II H 3 !■ ' ^ 470 RECOVERY AND RESTORATION ing into closer union the friendly relations of both countries. If in after years slight differences of opinion should arise between our respective governments, we have but to remember the ' Resolute ' and her priceless cargo of goodwill — freely sent, and as freely received — to feel assured that the threatening clouds must in time be dis- pelled and pass away. We have learnt with extreme satis- faction that Her Majesty, with that thoughtfulness for Avhioh she is so distinguished, has placed at your disposal the means of returning to your homes in a manner befit- ting the nature of your visit. Yet we cannot help saying regret is mingled with that satisfaction, for we are deprived of offering to you, your officers, and crew a reception more in accordance with our feelings. The trading community of Liverpool is bound to yours with more than common ties of interest, intercourse, and friendship ; we watch with the deepest interest every act which can disturb or strengthen these ties, and we receive with delight this munificent gift of the President and people of America as an additional pledge of unity. These feelings the ship- owners of Liverpool have recorded with the simplicity of truth in the address we have now the honour to present to you. (( t To Captain Hartstein of the United States Navy, and to his brother officers and crew of the " Resolute." €€ * We, the Liverpool Shipowners' Association, desire to offer to you our sincere congratulations on your safe arrival in England, having navigated to these shores the dis- covery ship " Resolute," as an offering of friendship and goodwill from the United States of America to this country. *We recognise in this act of the United States a (( OP II.M.S. " RKSOLUTK." 471 generous testimony of the kindly feelings of its govern- ment ami people to the British nation, and of an enrncet wish to foster those sentiments of mutunl regard and esteem, which constitute the real basis of cordial amity and enduring peace. " * The circumstances of a common ancestry and a common language, a similarity of laws, and in many respects an identity of interests, to say nothing of private friendships and personal ties, united your country to ours by bonds which cannot easily be severed, but spontaneous acts of friendship by the one nation to the other, such as that which it has been your pleasing duty to accomplish, are the best evidence to mankind at large of the indis- soluble character of those bonds, and engender the utmost confidence in the nations themselves that the peace which has so long happily subsisted between them will continue undisturbed. " * This Association, representing the shipping interest of this port, has witnessed this graceful act on the part of the United States with the greatest pleasure and satisfaction. Our flags and those of your country, are blended together in the harbours of commerce throughout the world ; and we rejoice upon every occasion when the good feelings which the trading community of each country bear towards each other, are encouraged by more than ordinary acts of friendship on the part of either of their governments. " * We have now only to express our earnest hope and trust that the same protecting Providence which enabled you to bring the " Resolute " in safety to England through the difficulties and perils of unusually tempestuous weather, will conduct you in safety to your homes ; and that you u H 4 Ill i *'^;k 472 RECOVERY AND RESTORATION may there individually long enjoy health, happiness, and prosperity. " * S. R. GRAVES, Chairman. ** * In pursuance of a special general meeting of the Association, held the 20th day of December, 1856.*" To this Captain Hartstein delivered the follow* ing reply : " Gentlemen, — To say that I feel honoured by this immistakeable mark of your consideration would but feebly express my sense of the compliment which you have thus paid through me to the Government, wliosc representative I now have the honour to be. Meeting you as delegates from the shipowners of the great com- mercial city of the United Kingdom, I rejoice at the kindly feeling thus manifested for a nation with whose interests you are so intimately connected. In my present mission to your Government, you can read the spirit of Americans towards the people of this country; and can easily believe that your happy allusion to the mutual bonds of origin and a community of feeling between us, will meet with a cordial response. The advancement of science and the arts, to which both nations have, in a spirit of generous rivalry, so greatly contributed, have changed our ancient geographical positions. Miles and seconds have become almost synonymous words, and now the iron messengers of our commerce fly like steam shuttles, weaving between us a fabric of mutual interest. May that spirit of friendly emulation, enterprise, and enlight- ened purpose which has given to our shipping interests the distinguished place they occupy throughout the universe, ever continue. For your expression of friendly interest OP II. M.S. "resolute." 473 nnd congratulations to myself and officers of the * Ilcao- lute,' be pleased, gentlemen, to accept our hearty thanks." The deputation and officers (who had stood uncovered during the whole of the interesting ceremony) then went below and partook of a splendid dSjeuner. Amongst other marks of attention, Captain Hartstein was entertained by Lord Palmerston, at his seat Broadlands ; and on Christmas Day the crew sat down to a sumptuous dinner, provided for them, at the George Hotel, by the British Govern- ment ; but perhaps nothing gratified Captain Hartstein and his officers more than the kindly at- tention shown to them by Lady Franklin, in invit- ing them all to an elegant entertainment which she had prepared for them expressly at Brighton, where, in addition to Sir Roderick Murchison, General Sabine, &c.. Captain Sherard Osborn, Cap- tain M'Clintock, Captain M'Guire, and several other distinguished officers assembled to meet them. At length, on Tuesday the 30th December, the final handing over of the *' Resolute " to Great Britain took place. A little before one o'clock, Captain George Seymour, of the " Victory," accom- panied by Mr. Penn, the master, and Mr. Burdwood, second master of the " Victory," a party of seamen, I H l-f l»i ( ^ 474 RECOVERY AND RESTORATION and corporal's guard of royal marines from the same ship, repaired on board the " Resolute." At this time the American colours, side by side with those of this country, hung from the peak of the ship. As the dockyard clock struck one, the flag-ship, ** Victory," hoisted the United States " stars and stripes" at her main, which she saluted with twenty-one guns. Whilst the salute was being fired, Captain Hartstein ordered the American colours to be hauled down on board the " Resolute," at whose peak the British ensign now floated alone, whilst at her main-truck an English pendant was displayed. The salute being ended, and the change of colours effected, the American crew manned the rigging, and gave three hearty cheers, as a return for the salute, and thus did the ice-beaten " Re- solute" become once more Her Majesty's ship. Captain Hartstein, surrounded by the Chevalier Pappalardo, United States Vice- Consul at this port, and the American officers, then addressing Captain Seymour, said : '* Sir, the closing scene of my most pleasant and important mission has now to be performed. And permit me to hope that long after every timber in her sturdy frame shall have perished, the remembrance of the old * Resolute ' will be cherished by the people of the respective nations. OF H.M.S. "resolute." 475 lesame At this h those hip. Lg-ship, Ts and I with being lerican olute," alone, it was ihange 2d the return "Re- valier I port, iptain most o be after shed, II be ions. I now, with a pride totally at variance with our professional ideas, strike my flag, and to you. Sir, give up the ship." To this Captain Seymour replied, " that the graceful act on the part of the United States towards this country, and the courteous manner in which it has been carried out by Captain Hartstein, and the officers of the ship, would ever live in the memory of the people of England." This concluded the ceremony of the delivery of the vessel to this country. The " Sprightly " steamer, Master-Commander George Allen, which has been in close attendance on the officers and crew of the " Resolute " since her arrival here, was lying alongside, with steam up, all the officers' and seamens* baggage being already on board. The crew of the " Resolute" then quitted her, and went on board the " Sprightly," Captain Hartstein and the other officers following, after bidding a cordiul farewell to Optain Seymour, the other British officers left on board the " Resolute," and the few civili&ns present. Prior to this, however, a bumper of ch ^rapagne had been most enthusias- tically drunk to Captain Hartstein, and the other officers and crew of the " Resolute." The final abandonment of the vessel seemed to create some :( V i h.\ 476 RECOVERY AND RESTORATION emotion on the part of the officers and men who had brought her home, all of whom appeared to feel that they had only been performing a work of love and pleasure, and which had been amply re- quited by the kindness and hospitality with which they had been received in England. However great that hospitality may have been, it is certain that no set of officers and men could have deserved it, even in a personal point of view, more than those in question. By a quarter past one the " Sprightly '* was under weigh, and the " Resolute " remained in charge of Mr. Penn and Mr. Burdwood, the half- dozen British seamen, and the corporal's guard of marines. Passing between the flag-ship " Victory " and the screw block-ship "Pembroke," 60 guns, the crews of these vessels manned the rigging, and gave cheer after ^ ^ to the American officers and men. The latter retUiiied the compliment in the most hearty manner, and it was repeated from ship to ship with the greatest enthusiasm. The general effect was of a most thrilling and interesting cha- racter. Even the dockyard steam-tug *' Pigmy " managed to mount some of her crew on her spare and crude rigging, and they also gave their quota of applause to the nation's guests as they passed I OF H.M.S. " EE80LUTE." 477 by. The " Sprightly " was by this time going out of harbour, on her way to Southampton, to place the officers and crew on board the United States mail steam-ship "Washington," which sailed the following day for New York. H.M.S. "Retri- bution " had been offered to convey Captain Hartsein and the crew of the " Resolute " to their home, but previous arrangements had been entered into for their return by the mail steam ship " Washington." Under the supposition that they might perhaps return in ships of war, preparations on a great scale were made at New York for the reception of the British officers and crews, and much disappointment was felt by the inhabitants of the city, and particularly by Mr. Grinnell ; all of whom were most anxious to show the people of England how much the people of America appre- ciated the good feeling to which the incident had given rise between the two nations. Before leaving, Captain Hartstein wrote a highly complimentary letter to Mr. Digby Dent, of the Portland Hotel, Southsea, thanking: him for his unremitting attention to himself and officers, and the handsome accommodation provided them, at the order of the Crown, during their sojourn. Nobly did these officers carry out the wishes of i !: I Ml ,! t 478 RECOVERY OF H.M.S. "RESOLUTE." the American peoplo, when delivering, with a dignified and delicate tact, their nation's generous gift, and in leaving this country for their own, they may rest assured that, as missionaries of peace, friendship, and good-will, they have cemented the brotherly love and aflfection with whic'i old England regards her Titanic child, and may the strong link of kindly feeling, forged by our Ameri- can brethren, ever unite in bonds of amity the two great nations of the earth, allied together as they are by ties of blood, language, and commerce, — rivals in every good work in which the better feelings of our nature are called forth, — and re- presentatives alike of the pride and glory of the Anglo-Saxon race. 'Ci S '1 ^1 ; APPENDIX. ;■: 481 TABLE OF POSITIONS FOR TRACK OF H.M. DISCOVERY SHIP "RESOLUTE," 1852. Date. April 21 22 23 24 25 29 30 May 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Latitude N. o / // 52 5 47 54 57 35 57 11 23 58 33 42 58 59 59 59 60 60 60 60 60 59 60 59 58 58 58 57 52 24 7 23 24 5U 53 27 31 26 Red. 32 1 D.N. 53 1 39 12 1 54 35 15 37 9 33 14 7 9 34 26 51 56 38 27 6 Longitude W. o ' >i 1 43 15 £. 16 16 E 1 31 30 W, 5 27 9 26 13 40 17 41 22 2 30 22 50 45 24 4 D.N. 23 57 22 52 30 24 15 26 47 26 48 29 2<:; '30 31 22 30 32 34 34 32 45 38 19 45 39 35 45 Var. W. 2i 1\ pis. 33° 40 40 42^ 49 45 45 44^ 43' Bearing! and distancei. Nore Light Vessel S.W. \ W. 1 mile. Orfordness Low Light, S. 73° W. (true ?) Aldborough Church, N. 50 W. (true ?) Flamboro' Head, S.S.W. \ W. 28 miles, (true?) Buchan-ness N.N.W. \ W. (true) 18 miles. Abreast of the Island of Flota. Butt of Lewis in sight, S. 83 W. 24 miles. Rocka!, S. 61 W., 155 miles. Cape Farewell, N. 66 W. 1025 miles. Ca]>e Farewell, N. 88 W. 305 miles. Cape Farewell, S. 86 W. 660 miles. Cape Farewell, S. 86 W. 630 miles. Cape Farewell, S. 86 W. 600 miles. Cape Farewell, S. 84 W. 605 miles. Capo Farewell, S. 89 W. 635 miles. Cape Farewell, S. 88 W. 597 miles. Cape Farewell, S. 89 W. 545 miles. Cape Farewell, S. 87 W. 515 miles. Cape Farewell, N. 85 W. 450 miles. Cape Farewell, N. 77 W. 410 miles. Cape Farewell. N. 75 W. 375 miles. Cape Farewell, N. 74 W. 310 miles. Cape Farewell, N. 57 W. 210 miles. Cape Farewell, N. 44 W. 197 miles. I I \i 482 APPENDIX. TABLE OF POSITIONS FOR TRACK OF IT.M. DISCOVERY SHIP " RESOLUTE " — continued. u\ Date. Latitude N. Longitude W. Var. W. Bcaringi and Distancea, / // t i> May 17 58 40 56 50 Capo Farewell, N. 42" W. 148 miles. 18 58 7 53 43 30 7 49J Capo Farewell, N. 7 W. 102 miles. 19 58 46 35 46 15 7 - Cape Desolation, N. 25 W. 133 miles. 20 59 46 45 47 8 - Cape Desolation, N. 26 W. 67 miles. 21 61 3 57 50 13 45 - Cape Comfort, N. 10 E. 42 miles. 22 62 4 15 53 82 45 55 Lichtenfeld, N. 23 E. 63 miles. 23 62 41 39 53 16 49 60 „ N. 66 E. 49 miles. 24 64 25 41 52 18 4 60J Uolstenborg, N. 15W. 158 miles. 25 64 64 56 52 45 55 „ N. 13 W. 126 miles. 26 65 57 26 55 56 15 58 „ N. 37 E. 77 miles. 27 66 39 8 55 16 15 . „ N. 59 E. 37 miles. 28 67 32 45 53 54 30 - Whale Fish Islands, N. 35 E. 104 miles. 29 - - - - . Kron-Prins Islands, East 6 miles. June 1 1 69 23 5 52 20 16 12 69 45 56 ■ ■ r X t Disco Island, N. 23 E. z sub. pass. 4° 0. 13 69 23 43 51 46 15 71? 14 very th ok weather. 1 X t Disco Island, N. by W. ® off shore 1 mile. 15 »» »» Beacon Lievcly, S. 17° E. ® S. H. N. by E. Disco Island rt, N. 59° E. S. H. N. by E. 16 70 23 33 55 37 45 . Hare Island, S. 42 E. $ Z sub. 22° 45'. 17 71 45 46 55 44 15 ■ " Black Hk. 8. 53° W. Lawson Island, rt. S. 49° E. ®. Black Hk., S. 53° W. Lawson Island, rt. N. 85 E. S. E. E.N.E. 18 72 32 57 19 71 Sanderson's Hope, N. 63 E. 23. 19 - - - - - Fast to a berg off Upernavik. 20 - - - - - In offing do. 21 ■ • " - - Boring between the Woman Is- lands. 22 - - - - - Sugar Loaf, S. 84 E. C. Shacklcton, S. 15 E. ® S. H. N.E. 23 74 5 - " - In the vicinity of the Duck Is- lands. 24 74 5 44 67 42 25 74 13 49 58 30 7 87 Devils Peak (Ilapcr's pos.) N. 83 E. 9 mUes, 15 too far west. ?.», w. 148 w. 102 Lawson S. E. APPENDIX. 483 TABLE OF POSITIONS FOR TRACK OF II. M. DISCOVERY SHIP " RESOLUTE " — continued. Dale. June 2b 27 28 29 ,10 July 1 4 5 10 14 16 17 20 21 23 24 25 27 31 Aug. 1 Utitude N. / II 75 4 59 75 5 74 57 24 74 52 41 75 45 75 15 26 75 21 42 75 22 53 75 9 3) 75 7 27 75 19 10 75 15 9 75 21 19 75 34 56 75 35 37 75 49 11 75 49 47 75 51 47 75 14 12 74 27 74 22 55 74 26 33 I.^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ks 4^ 1.0 SKA 115 -- Ml itt m g2.2 u; SbUbI^ bo 12.0 lU ^''V ^J>- I^iotogFaphic Sciences CarparatJon 23 WBT MIAM STMST VVIISm,NY. MSM (71«)«7a^S03 486 APPENDIX. TABLE OF POSITIONS FOR TRACK OF H.M.S. "NORTH STAR,' FROM BEECHEY ISLAND TO ENGLAND. — 1854. Date. Aug. O 27 J) 28 $ 29 S 30 n 31 Sept. 9 1 Latitude N. / // 74 73 24 50 73 6 22 }) $ n 9 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 O 10 }) 11 72 47 71 26 70 54 71 7 71 7 70 43 69 48 69 25 69 7 68 52 Longitude W. 1 '/ - - 81 4 - - 75 30 45 73 20 67 39 63 15 56 43 55 49 55 42 55 41 Bearings and Dittnncci. 54 3 53 50 1 r. H. left Becchcy Island. Capo Bullen, E.N.E. (true). Cape Hay, S. by E. J E. 16 or 18 miles. At anchor in Navy Board Inlet, Cape Castlereagh, N.W. J W. S.x.Wollaston Island, W.S.W. 5^ fms. Cape Graham Moore S. i E, Burney, S.W., Bathurst, \V. by N., Compy. Cape Graham Moore, N. 78° W. N. pt. of Disco S. 65i E. 374. Lievely (Disco) S. 65 E. 309 miles. Lievely (Disco) S. 64 E. 218 miles. Black Hook, N. by E., Cape Cranstoun, N. 64 E. 33. Black Hook, N. 6 E. 28'. Hare Island, centre, S. 49 E. 23' (?) Entrance of Mcllan Fiord, E., 14 miles. Disc. Island S. Ex., S.E. J E. 16 or 18 miles. Lievely Beacon, N.E. by E. J E. 7 or 8. At anchor outer Harbour of Lievely. Holsteinborg, S. 6 E. 122 miles. APPENDIX. 487 i I I STAR," TABLE OF TEMPERATURE. 1. ). 6 or 18 1 Inlet, 4 E, St, W. 78° W. 1. 374. S. 309 2. 218 Cape E. 23' E., 14 E. 16 3. JE. ur of lilcs. Sir EdwanI Parry, Wintpr H'irhniir Sir Bilward Parry, Sir Edward Parry, Sir Edward Parry, Port Roweti, Month!. Melville Ulaiid. Winter Island. Igloolik. Prince Itegenl'g Inltt. 181U-20. 18-2I-22. 1822-23. 1624-23. M». Min. Mean. Max. Min. Mean. Max Min. Mean. Max. Min Mean. + + + + + + + + + + o Aug. 42 28 33 67 - - r - - - 50 27 33 68 ' - - . - Sept. 37 1 22 54 - - 31 62 37 11 24 4 36 16 25 9 Oct. 17 5 28 3 46 «• B - - 13 15 29 9 12 8 31 5 12 10 8 Nov. 6 47 20 60 - - 7 80 8 32 19 4 17 26 4 99 Dec. 6 43 21 79 - - 14 14 10 43 27 8 4 5 35 19 05 Jan. 2 47 30 09 « « - . 23 13 22 45 17 97 14 5 42 5 28 91 Feb. 17 50 32 19 - - - - 24 01 20 43 20 4 8 45 27 32 March + 6 40 18 10 10 78J + 4 41 19 75 9 + 47 5 28 4 April 32 32 8 37 ■ a - - 6 50 32 25 1 68 20 37 6 5 + May 47 4 16 66 - - 23 31 49 5 8 + 24 85 39 7 5 + 17 6 June 51 28 36 24 . . . . 33 16 52 8 32 16 47 23 36 1 July 60 32 42 41 • - • • 35 33 59 30 40 04 50 30 37 3 Aug. 45 22 32 68 " • " • 36 88 • " " • • 51 25 35 8 Mean Ai m. Temp. + < Sept. to + Aug. to + Sept. to + fromSe] Jt.toAug 54 Aug. 9 80 July. 5 07 Aug. 6 il ii I I 4 488 APPENDIX. TABLE OF TEMPERATURE. Im' Monthi. Captain Austin Orllfltht Ulaiiil 1850-.M. 1 . Capt. M'Clure. P. of Wile* Strait. 1850-51. Capt. M'Clure, Bay of Mercy. isfti-fia. Capt. M'Clure, Buy of Mercy. 1852-53. Max. Min. Mean. Max. Mln. Mean. Max. Min. Mean. Max Min. Mean. + o + + o + + + + o + + o + + o + Aug. - - • • • - 50 27 36 53 52 21 37 50 52 19 33 24 Sept. 40 3 20 2 46 20 20 43 1 24 46 38 4 20 8 Oct. 17 13 5 3 24 23 23 26 23 3 39 14 33 5 01 Nov. 14 30 6 9 7 32 10 17 10 40 14 63 9 43 16 55 Dec. 4 39 5 22 2 3 40 23 36 11 44 20 01 4 48 26 08 Jan. 11 47 31 9 15 51 32 44 8 51 27 27 16 65 43 77 Feb. 13 48 32 9 9 51 37 67 1 47 25 95 13 56 38 50 March 8 43 25 7 5 51 28 82 + 5 52 28 38 + 17 58 25 00 April + 32 29 7 + 38 32 4 70 31 38 1 36 38 41 6 53 May 50 + 23 47 5 18 85 37 25 + 10 25 June July Aug. 57 • * 26 5 36 6 53 52 52 + 27 32 21 36 09 37 54 37 50 51 52 52 + 11 30 19 31 49 36 74 33 24 Stiip abandoned. Sept. to Aug. + 99 4 1 63 Cipt. M'Clure, liiiy of Mercy. 1852-53. K MIn. + Mean. + o 19 33 24 4 20 8 33 5 01 43 16 55 48 26 08 65 43 77 56 38 50 58 25 00 41 6 53 abandoned. APPENDIX. 489 TABLE OF TEMPERATURE. Monthi. Sir E. Belcher, C.B. Northumberland Sounil, Wellington Channel. 1852-53. Sir R. Belcher, C.B. Disaster Bay, Wellington Channel. 1853-54. 1 Cnpt. Kcllett. C.B. Dealy Island, Bridport Inlet. 1852-53. Capt. Kcllett, C. B. in the Pack. Lat 7<0 4IJ' Long. 101° W W. 1833-M. Max. Min. • • m m Mean. Max. Mill. Mfan. ! Max Mill. Mean. Max.! Min. Mean. Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec. Jan. Ftb. March April May June July Aug. " • 1. _ - - - + 29 18 11 5 'I' 10 + 16 14 31 47 47 42 + o 1 21 27 5 35 54 44 46 25 + 5 20 30 24 + 18 8 56 12 7 26 .36 13 30 42 19 17 2 47 + 16 9 33 04 36 42 33 1 + + + O 38 6 17 88 30 15 4 6 8 37 20 18 6 44 30 4r> 20 55 36 7 1 23 57 5 41 12 17 47 31 95 + 23 33 5 7 13 Ship abandoned on the 15th May, by order of Sir E. Belcher. Sept, to Aug. + 86 ! ! l> 490 APPENDIX. TABLE OF TEMPERATURE. I i Sir Jamei Hoii, Mr. Sauntlers, Sir John Roti, Sir John Ron, Port Leopold, Wolstenholme Felix Hurbour. SherifTi IlarlMur. Prince Regent's Sound, Baffin's Bay. Months. Inlet. 1829-30. 1830^1. 184ft-49. 1849-30. Max. + Min + Mean. Max. + Min. + Mean. Max. + Min. Meaa Max. Min. Mean. + + •♦ + o Aug. . . - - - . . - - - • • - - - - - - 33 67 Sept. 40 17 29 4 43 5 27 4 37 5 6 23 2 m m - - 26 76 Oct. 24 16 5 7 9 24 12 11 32 12 3 10 - - - - 1132 Nov. 26 37 3 6 24 41 11 4 16 33 7 12 8 - - - - 18 60 Dec. 8 37 23 1 6 47 20 2 12 3 47 5 32 5 . _ _ . 27 05 Jan. 5 45 27 2 2 5 59 5 25 4 8 6 45 31 8 m • - . 25 07 Feb. + 1 5 47 29 9 9 5 49 32 5 15 3 53 31 3 - - 69j 34 02 March 20 4 42 20 9 + 8 5 + 51 34 7 + 8 45 19 4 - - - - 17 47 April .31 21 1 4 30 25 6 4 + 7 29 10 1 + " " • " 3 74 + May 37 1 + 15 3 36 16 + 16 42 9 + 16 4 " - - • 25 82 Jane 62 26 36 8 52 14 31 6 54 11 5 31 7 - . . . 39 73 July 70 32 44 6 50 32 37 9 43 31 5 36 - - - • 40 52 Aug. 58 33 40 9 54 24 36 5 42 27 33 7 •• • • •* - Moan A nn. Temp + Sept. to + Sept. to + Aug. to + fromSe 9t. to Aug. 6 Aug. 2 50 Aug. 1 09 July. 3 49 r. Saunderi, oUten holme Sound, aiBn't Bay. 1849-SO. Min. M m 69j to r. Mean. o 33 67 26 76 11 32 18 60 27 05 25 07 34 02 17 47 3 74 + 25 82 39 73 40 52 + 3 49 APPENDIX. 491 TABLE OF TEMPERATURE. Month*. August September October November December January February March - April - May June - July - August Commander Fallen, lleechey Uland. 1852.53. Max. 31 5 29 16 7 9 5 10 + 20 31 45 52 54 44 MIn. Mean. + o o 11 9 5 21 34 7 53 37 46 15 6 4 + 25 31 24 21 4 5 2 3 12 24 7 35 8 19 13 1 8 Commander Fullen, Beechey Itland. 1853-54. Mnx. + o + 19 36 39 34 8 4 34 25 8 5 19 5 25 5 15 10 + 24 45 51 52 Min. + o 4 11 37 42 48 5 51 39 30 2 + 19 32 Mean. + o 18 5 7 4 1.; 6 24 1 31 4 35 33 24 96 + S5 16 74 33 15 38 94 n ' i H » s 492 APPENDIX. RESULTS OF CAPTAIN M«CLINTOCK'S EXPP:RIMENTS WITH TltAVELLING KETTLES AND LAMPS. Detcrlption of Lamp Slie of Kettle. Time per pint to lilt •olve. min. (PC. 2 40 4 24 3 54 3 21 6 00 Time per ■tint to boil from Snow. Kind of Fuel uied. Fuel per pint tn bull IVom Snow. Niimlicr of experi- ment!. Tempernture uf the Air and Snow. Argand • • 5-wick - - Stearino - - Ditto - - - Ditto - - - 13 pint. 9 „ 13 „ 9 „ 9 „ min. tec. 4 48 8 48 10 00 7 12 16 00 Alcohol Ditto Stearino. Ditto Tallow o*. tenthi. 1 2 9 1 1 1 1 1 4 3 3 3 3 1 32° minus ditto ditto ditto ditto <' I r ! SCHEME OF FUEL FOR A PARTY OF ELEVEN PERSONS. Temperature 32° minus. To hoi] tea or cocoa for breakfast, 13 pints ... To di.ssolve snow for diluting rum and filling water- buttles, 10 pints .-.---. Luncheon water, 8 pints - . . - - Supper of preserved meats - . - . . Evening grog and water-bottles (? about ten pints) Alcoliol. Stearine. ounces. ounces. — 14i ^ n 6 15i — 7\ 21i 29 Amounting to (21^ + 29) 50^ ounces at Temp, minus 32°, or 40J oz. at zero. Capt. M'Clintock found by actual experiment, that to boil from snow in Temp, minus 40°, required twice as much time that it does from snow near the freezing point, and in a Temp, of 4 40°, and from this fact, arrived at the following con- clusions : — That since the quantity of fuel for 11 persons be 54 oz. in Temp. 40° The quantity would be „ „ 47^ „ 20° — Ditto „ „ „ 40^ „ zero Ditto „ „ „ 33^ „ 20° + Ditto (found by experiment) 27 „ 40° t NTS WITH icr of ■rl- itt. Temperature ur the Air •ad Snow. 32° minus ditto ditto ditto ditto PERSONS. Ucoliol. Stearine. tuncei. ounces. — 14J 6 n 15i — n 21i 29 oz. at zero, snow in Temp, ear the freezing following con- p. 40° — 20° — zero 20° + 40° t APPENDIX. 493 < O 5?5 H 525 H i I -a IS 1-3 £ t« 3 feet brof 1 foot of and bees-1 J »« i -^1 o o ♦'d — Si* 1 feet Bottoi boil 1 1 A t^ S Q 2 "-S en h U to -2 4; ♦*»'*' "^ ©•« «J * „ .2.5.5 fc'u .a — '^ 00 u SS Tc I ^ ^ • o * = a 2 3 r2 "B S § fc- 2» 09 I s I H H Q< S if •|.i.s " B.2 >> F^<^piM F^ Q^w^^r^Q^COC^^^^^^^^^^^^^CO^^^^ 494 APPENDIX. M 'A P4 U O •-9 O o o Q (4 « "5 1 a S o a 9^ -3-3 iiS I .b 0< »; H h b h h t. a< Oi a. a< B. Q. a w4 pN * p4 • 91 FH (M M e>| CO •^ « * • » ft u la « -4 •« F 1 1 2 pair 1 pair 1 pair 1 pair 1 pair 1 pair 1 pair 1 I t wt ^' r* 1 * * * * ft ft * ft ft a I a is 'c w 5 u g 4^ a f St « |l fit) •a w iS 5. e, J 4: - W)« & 1 c= *» -- , CO J 2 o 8 Sups .a i APPENDIX. 41)5 TENT FOR EIGHT MEN. I §* i o O ■a .2} ■3. s IB 4J 3 S -I — S I I i__i P *T Scale i Inch to a foot. DIMENSIONS. Length of floor. Breadth or ditto Perpendicular height Length of head Ingth of weather clot Valence Horns for nike ends Height of » 1-6 B. C. Z. O h 27 29*92 50 -11 -19 -14-7 »» 1-6 B. C. Z. 28 •72 .50 -11 -13 -12-3 N.N.E. 4-8 B. c. m. z. D 29 •69 45 -15 -25 -20-6 N. by E. ^E. 48 c. m. q. z. 7 P.M. Halo round the moon, with a Paraselene at each extremity of ho- rizontal diameter. ^ 30 •90 47 -11 -21 -25 -18-4 N. by W. 1-7 B. C. 0. z. 9 P.M. Aurora from west to south. 30-07 49 + 14 -10-2 1852. Melville Island. nemarki, ftc. K. Remarkable hale >und the moon. H. Paraselenes each e of d. housed in for thi iter. a w- coloured aurora. [. Bright arch of aii- 1 from S.E. to N.W sing through Polaris I. Faint aurora to the tward. '.H. Faint aurora in th and the S.W. rtcr. f. Halo round the n. Sun 10®. Flashes of aurora, Halo round the I, with a Paraselene Bh extremity of ho- ial diameter. Vurora from wesi ith. APPENDIX. 503 METEOROLOGICAL ABSTRACT.— For December, 1852. Kept on board H.M.S. " Resolute," wintering in Bridport Inlet, Melville Island. Temp, Air. Date. Barom. (Aner.) Ther. (Alt). Windi. Force. Weather. Remarki, ftc. o Max. Mil). Mean. ^ ? 1 29-99 470 15 23 20-1 N. by W. 51 B. C. V- 2 3000 47^7 21 25 23-0 N.iW. 1 B. 0. 2. Obsd. halo round the 7) , andParaselenee on each side. 9 3 •01 48 22 31 27-7 N. by E. 1 B.C Faint streaks of aurora. h 4 •07 50 24 29 26-4 N. iE. 1 B. C. 5 •05 50 26 31 28-0 N. j E. Calm. 10 B. C. D 6 •06 50 22 31 26-9 N. JW. 1 B. 7. Waving streams of light and brilliant coruscation, suffus- ing the whole heavens, from two different arches. 24 -95 47 48 30 35 7 vv.s.w. 17 B. c. q. (? 25 3005 60 35 21 27-1 S.W.easterly 2 a c. Halo and circle round d— S 26 29-80 49 41 26 39-2 W. to north. 1 B. c. [Diamr. 45°. V- 27 •82 50 49 41 45-8 Northerlv. 1 a 1 1 A.H. Mercury fro'.en. $ 28 •72 49 48 30 38-6 Cra.W.N.'W 0-2 B. c. 1 h 29 •68 49 32 11 20-4 Westerly. 2-9 o. q. z. © 30 •43 50 4fi 11 25-0 W.N.W.NIy 9-3 0. q. z. ]> 31 •49 51 44 30 35-7 North to W. 6-8 ac.m.q.z. i 29-75 47 -61 -11 -40-7 Northerly. 2-5 Dd n h O T> (? 5 V- ? h 3) 3 Island. narki, Ac. > read paper at iselenc over the 5 P.M. Mercury [became solid, d. P. on summit f Dcaly Island Arch of aurora through zenith a few corusca- tches of colored > southward. observed an to westward, coruscating tO' nith. Slight aurora Slight aurora. [5 P.M. aurora. ^n aurora from ,E., increasing ancy towards ira from south ; aurora. round the }) it Room— + [29°. clc round ([— Dlamr. 45°. ary fro, &c. Max. Min. Mean. 11-4 B. q. z. O 13 •24 46 13 29 24-0 »> 6-9 u. q. z. ■ J 14 r36 46 15 30 25-9 «• 9-12 o. q. z. •36 48 26 31 29-5 <« 12-8 B. e. q. z. 9 P.M. Aurora N.N.W. to S.S.E., thro' the S 15 zenith. $ 16 29-93 47 24 32 26-9 « 10-7 c. q. z. V 17 3007 48 29 38 32-9 N.N.E. 9-1 c. q. z. ? 18 •12 49 24 39 330 Easterly. 2 B. c. h 19 •05 48 20 31 23-3 Southerly. 61 o. q. z. 20 •29 49 29 43 36-2 Nortlierlv. 1 n. }) 21 •54 49 33 41 37-5 N.N.w: 4-7 o. q. z. (? 22 •17 47 33 40 37-7 1» 8-4 u. c. q. z. Complementary color? on each side of the 0. 9 P.M. Purase- lena under i) . ? 23 29^:9 47 29 31 30-3 North. 6-4 •1 n 24 •86 46 30 33 31-5 S. 3-5 >» ? 25 •84 46 35 43 39-2 N.Wly. 3 II h 26 •76 46 34 39 37-5 S.W. 1 B. C. 27 •87 43 37 46 41-8 South. 1. II J 28 •90 42 35 48 43-2 East. II )> 3014 48 -13 -48 33-2 Northerly. 3-7 1 1 ! 1 .1 i ! I 506 APPENDIX. METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.— For March, 1883. Kept on board H.M.S. "Resolute," wintering in Bridport Inlet, Melville Island. Temp. air. 1 Windi Date. Barom. (Aner.) Thcr. ? Weatlier. Remark!, &c. Max. Mtn. Mean Direction. Force (J 1 3008 42 32 45 37'6 + ° 54 Easterly. 1 B. C. 9 2 29-91 43 12 28 19 55 S. Wly. 1 0. m. 8. % 3 30-08 44 20 38 30 54 Northerly. 4 B. C. Q. ? 4 •32 40 28 39 35 54 n 1 D. I A.M. Aurora to the S.W. h 6 •43 41 36 42 39 53 »» 5 B. c. m. 9 P.M. Aurora from NW. S.E. ; centre of arch S.W. 6 •52 40 31 36 34 51 »l 7 O. Q. Z. }> 7 •20 43 20 29 26 42 »t »» n » 4 B. c. q. 9 9 •08 48 28 44 35 45 n 1 B. C. U 10 •13 49 33 44 37-i-> 45 N.N.W. 2 »» ? 11 •11 48 29 36 34 42 Northerly. 7 O. Q. Z. 2 A.H. Slight aurora to S.W. h 12 •29 43 29 34 31 43 N. by W. 8 n 13 •28 42 30 35 31 48 N.N.W. 72 n }) 14 •16 43 30 40 35 50 Easterly. 2 B. C. $ 15 •06 43 26 37 30 50 E.S.E. i» )f $ 16 •13 44 17 29 23 49 »> »» n 2^ 17 •05 45 7 19 12 51 North. 3 B. c. ni. ? 18 29^7 1 47 + 10 -10 - 1 52 S.E. 3 B. c. m. s. h 19 •85 48 -10 - 5 55 E.S.E. 3 a c. tn. 20 3004 47 + 1 - 4 - 1 55 t» »» «» Between 1 and 2 p.m. ob* served a remarkable tint of orange and yellow on horizon about 4 5° left of ; snow dissolved on ship's side for first time this season. D 21 •43 49 •f 16 - 4 + 6 55 S.E. I ^ 22 •.52 52 + 11 - 8 + 4 54 E.S.E. 2 B. C. $ 23 •58 51 + 1 -14 - 7 55 South. B. c. m. i; 24 •50 50 — 3 -20 -12 54 North. m. 9 to 1 1 P.M. Halo round theC 9 25 •34 49 10 23 15 52 Easterly. B. C. h 26 29-97 51 4 18 JO 53 E.S.E. cm. 27 •73 53 + 3 11 5 55 Easterly. O. 8. ]) 28 -69 51 3 24 6 53 >» B. m. w dissolved on de for first time son. u. Halo round APPENDIX. METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.— For April, 1853. Kept on board H.M.S. "Resolute," wintering in Bridport Inlet, Melville Island. 607 S a Temp. air. Wind- Date. k. . Wciiithnr Krmarki, &c 11 1 Mhx. Mill. Mean. Direction. Force. *« Viihuvr* Frid. 1 3015 51 6 19 11-3 + 48 S.E. 2 1 1 D. C. 1 P.M. Observed a halo around the 0. Sat. 2 10 55 4 13 6-5 46 Easterly. 3 99 Sun. 3 29-97 54 + 5 - 4 + 1 52 Cnhn. B. c. m. Mon. 4 90 43 8-5 1 + 3-6 48 E.N.E. 2 o. m. s. Considerable fall of snow. Tues. 6 30 01 36 3 7 -2^4 47 N. by E. 1-5 >» Distance and dimensions of objects deceptive. Wed. 6 •09 39 -1 - 8 -3^5 44 99 4 o. m. q. Weather unsettled. Thur. 7 •05 35 10 19 14 40 N.N.E. 2-7 m. q z. Wind fluctuating in force. Frid. 8 29-87 36 13 20 16-5 39 N. by W. 4-10 >• A perfect hurricane during the squalls. " Intrepid " hidden at times. Sat. 9 •86 32 9 17 13 36 North. 4.9 B. c. q. z Weather as yesterday. Sun. 10 •90 34 7 14 11 34 »> 69 »» Weather as yesterday. Mon. 11 •99 35 •f 1 12 6-7 33 »» 7-3 »» 7 P.M. Weather fine: little drift. Tues. la •96 44 3 13^5 6-6 41 Calm. n. s. Fine and clear: objects much refracted. Wed. 13 -98 ■14 16 9 Zero 41 E.-S.W. 3 B c. m. Observed a halo, 47° dia. Hor. Par. 2 in No. and inverted arch above halo. Thur. 14 30-11 45 4 15 - 3 39 Northerly. 2 B. c. Frid. 15 29-77 44 3 18 76 38 N.N.W— S. lO-l o. ni. 8. z, B. C. 5. 30 P.M. wind suddenly shifted to N.N.W., and blew with great violence. Sat. 16 •93 41 12 22 18 35 99 10-5 n. c. z. Sun. 17 30-00 41 5 18 77 35 99 3 o. m. Fine. Mon. 18 •00 44 + 10 - 4 + 2 41 Calm. 1 o. m. s. Fine and clear : objects much refracted. Tues. 19 -00 44 + 10 - 4 + 6 45 E.N.E. 1 B. c. Wed. 20 •00 46 + 4 -15 + 1-4 48 S.E. 2 B. C Thur. 21 •00 47 *I2 - 4 + 5 49 99 1 B. c. m. Frid. 22 •08 48 + 20 + 3 + 12 51 N.E. 1 B. c. ni. Sat. 23 •35 47 + 6 - 2 + 6 48 North. 4 0. q. z. Sun. 24 •45 43 + 3 -4^5 - 3 44 »» 7 »' Mon. 25 •40 44 + 2 - 7 - 3 41 N.N.W. 6 O. <{. z. Tues. 26 •49 45 + 3 - 4 - 2 44 »» 7 u. c. z. Wed. 27 •69 44 + 7 - 5 + 3 43 North. 3 B. C. Thur. 28 •71 43 T 7 + 3 + 5 43 N.NW. 4 u. c. q. Frid. 29 •62 44 + 17 + 6 + 11 43 North. 5 B. C. Sat. 30 •55 42 43 + 18 + 2 + 10 46 jj 3 »» 3013 + 20 -22 -2-5 43 1 ! ! 508 APPENDIX. METEOROLOGICAL TABLE— For May, 1853. Kept on board II. M.S. "Resolute," wintering in Uridport Inlet, Melville Island. '•'• I Date. •1 T imp. air. fc J Wlnitf. p 1.* WcatluT. Kemarki, &c. 9i Mux + Mean + Mill. + + Direction. Force. Sun. 1 30-49 45 ■23 12 2 52-4 N.8.E8trly. 1 B. C. O. S. Mon. 2 •51 48 10 75 3 47-4 S. Easterly. 2 O. C. Tues. 3 •53 46 10 6 3 45-0 «i 2 O. C. Wed. 4 •56 51 13 7-2 3 46-5 »» «i D. 0. 111. TImr. 6 •57 49 13 5 11 5 45-9 Easterly. II in. s. Frid. 6 •58 44 23 15 7 457 N.E. 1 B. C. V. ' Sat. 7 •54 44 12 9 5 440 Nortlicrly. »» D. C. Sun. 8 •41 41 14 11 5 444 Calm. B. C. V. Distant objects much re- fraetcd. Considerable glare. Mon. 9 •14 41 19 14 11 44-0 N.N.W. 4 B. c. ni. Weather gloomy and threatening. Tuea. 10 29-88 42 21 15 7 44-1 N.W. 3 o. q. s. Wed. 11 •94 42 16 12 6 430 N.N.W. 5 B o. in. Thur. 12 •96 42 15 lf5 7 414 «< 5 B. c. q. z. Frid. 13 3006 37 29 13-7 7 43-3 North. 2 B. c. Sat. 14 •36 44 19 13-4 4 43-6 Calm-S. 01 B. C. V. Day beautifully fine and clear. Sun. 1.5 •33 44 13 9 3 44-5 South. 2 u. c. V. Mon. 16 •11 43 24 165 10 45-2 •1 1 B. C V. Gravel in canal, eating through. Tues. 17 29-83 40 27 19-2 8 466 »» 2 B. C. Wed. 18 •78 36 33 28-7 24 ."JO-S it 1 o. c. m. Thur. 19 •66 49 29 24-5 20 466 S.E. 3 (). c. m. Frid. 20 •68 )0 40 31-5 25 49-7 >» 1 a c. m. Snow fell during forenoon. Floe beginning to be slojipy. Sat. 21 •82 50 34 28-4 21 49 N.Wly. 3 B. c. m. Sun. 22 •78 46 31 249 19 47-7 W.N.W. 2 B. C. V. Mon. 23 •68 43 23 19-1 14 46-7 N.N.W. 4 B. c in. Tues. 24 •75 46 28 21-4 17 45-6 N.W. 3 B. c. m. • Wed. 23 •98 46 26 21 8 18 439 N.N.W. 4 o. c. Thur. 26 30-24 46 17 14-9 12 38-7 •» 7 B c. q. z. Clear sky overlicad. Heavy drifr. Frid. 27 •14 46 27 21-5 16 39 6 n 6 ff Sat. 28 29-84 45 25 22-7 19 42-5 «< 8 t» Sun. 29 •86 44 28 21-9 18 42-9 North. 6 " i Mon. 30 •76 44 24 21-5 19 42-1 n 8 „ |Vci-y heavy drift. Tues. 31 •65 46 >2 + 20-2 + 18 + 38^4 + N.N.W. 6 0. tn. q. s. 1 i 1 .3008 40 16*9 2 44-8 1 »atl Wcd.l ThurJ Frid. Sat. Sun. Mon. Tues. Wed. Thur. Frid. Sat. Sun. Mon. Tues. Wed. Thur. Frid. Sat. Sun. Mon. Tues. Wed. Thur. Frid. Sat. Sun. Mon. Tues. Wed. Thur. Island. emarki, &c. )bjccts much re Considerable gloomy and ning. itifully fine and a canal, eating luring forenoon. Bginning to be verlicad. Heavy |r drift. APPENDIX. METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL. — For June, 1853. Kept on board H.M.8. " Resolute," Bridpurt Inlet, Melville Island. 509 Temperature WIndi. Date. Darom. (AiuT.; ti Wcatlier. nem.tilii, &c. M»x. Min. Mean. l.uwer Deck. + Direction. Force. + + + + Wed. 1 29-64 48 30 21 256 40 North 4 0. m. 8. Thur. 2 •74 47 35 25 29^2 48 w.s.w. 3 o. m. Frid. 3 •72 4.') 39 '25 311 50 f« 2 fl Sat. 4 •78 40 30 25 27-1 46 N.N.E. A o. m. g. Weather unsettled during the day. A pool of water, 1 foot deep on the starboard side. Sun. a 3000 38 40 25 29-4 50 ft 4 II Weather gloomy and un- settled. Mon. 6 29-79 38 37 25 31 4 ' 51 N.N.W. 3 a c. V. Tues. 7 -73 42 29 23 266 47 91 4 B. c. Wed. 8 •82 45 40 22 321 47 *« t* B. C. V. Thur. 9 •74 38 31 27 309 47 N.Wly. 3 99 Frid. 10 •72 35 30 23 27-4 50 N.N.W. II B. c. m. Snow fnlling. Weather gloomy. Sot. 11 •72 38 34 24 28-7 50 North. 4 o. m. 8. Rain during the afternoon. Sun. 12 •74 45 30 23 27-0 52 N.N.W. 6 ni. 8. r. Mon. 13 •79 46 36 23 30-9 51 II 4 B. C. V. Day fine, distant object refracted. Tues. 14 •80 48 43 32 35-5 55 II 2 B. C. Wed. 15 •76 46 45 30 36^4 54 » Mon. 12 •80 45 15 9 13 51 N.W. 5 B. c. m. Tucs. 13 •78 45 22 15 19 53 West. 3 99 Wed. 14 •69 46 18 8 13 48 W.S.W.,S. 2 B.C. Thur. 15 •57 45 24 17 20 51 North'ly. 2 O. f. s. Frid. 16 •78 47 21 14 18 52 West 3 B. C. Sat. 17 •89 43 20 9 14 53 N.W. 5 B. c. m. s. Sun. 18 3013 43 12 9 10 65 NN.W. 4 B. c. m. Mon. 19 •17 45 12 8 11 53 N.Wes'ly. 3 >• Tues. 20 •11 45 20 13 17 56 N.N.W. 4 B. m. Wed. 21 •06 46 17 13 15-5 56 »f »» B. c. Thur. 22 •13 44 19 12 16 54 N.Wes'ly. 3 »» Frid. 23 2997 44 15 11 13 54 S.Wes'ly. 3 B. C. Sat. 24 •82 41 15-5 8 12 54 Wester'ly. 3 B. c. m. s. Sun. 25 •84 42 10-5 6 8 52 South. 2 a c. Mon. 26 •89 44 18 8 13 48 f9 1 B. c. m. s. Tues. 27 •93 44 18 15 16 51 S. East'ly. 1 o. s. Wed. 28 •85 45 17 10 14 52 Easterly. 3 o. m. Thur. 29 •87 44 13 8 11 52 »» 2 o. Frid. 30 •79 45 15 11 12 50 •> 3 n 29-85 45 38 6 18 52^5 53. until tho 10th, and Lat. 75° N., Long. Kemarki. &c. APPENDIX. 513 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.— For OctolKT, 18.53. Kt'itt on board U.M.S. " Rcsohito," Capt. II. KclKtt, C.B., wintering in the Pack, in Lat. 74° 41' 34" N., Long. 101<^ 22' 06" W. Temp. Air. b . Wind <. Date. Biirom. (Anvr.) Thcr. (alt.) I15 ^0 Wontlicr. Itcm.irks, &c. Max. Min. Mran. Direction. I'orci- + + + Sat. 1 29 -.50 45 12 8-5 I'ii 53 S.E.,Wv. 47 n. C. Sun. 2 •G5 45 11 3 5-6 56 N.N.W. 5 n. ni. <). Mon. 3 •51 43 10.5 + 5 7-2 45 N.W. 5 11. V. (J. ni. Tucs. 4 •41 44 16 10 13 52 Westerly. 4 s. (). ni. Wed. 5 •42 43 16 1 10-2 56 N.Wcst'iv 4 H. c. ni. Faint flashes of au- rora — oi (Served several shooting Thurs. 6 •59 42 3 -3 - 1 55 Westerly. 2 i» stars. 9, observed va])our rising IVoni Fire hole— Paraselene Fri. 7 •80 43 4 4 + 0-2 52 N.W. 1 11. c. f. on each side of © Sat. 8 .30 05 41 4 1 2-6 56 W.S.W. 1 o. in. Sun. 9 •20 42 8 Zero 4-8 57-5 Calni.S.K. 01 0. c. in. Mon. 10 •05 45 12 + 2 5-4 50-5 E.S.E. 5 9 11. c. ni. q. Tucs. 1 1 29 41 46 24 11 17-5 50 ti 8 o. i\. r. 10 I'.M., arch of Wed. 12 •47 45 30 11 25 9 54 S. Easterly 6 o. e. q. aurora through zeiiuh. Thur. 13 •64 45^5 8 -1 4-5 56 Westerly. 1 11. c ni. Fri. 14 71 45^5 15 + 11 13-5 50 N.W. 1 0. o. ni. Sat. 1.5 •81 45 16 8 133 55 N.N.W. 1 O. 111. Sun. 10 •90 43^5 16 11 13-8 56 Northerly. 2 11. 0. in. o. Mon. 17 •80 44 19 7 15^8 56 Easterly. 1 O. 8. Tue-s. 18 •85 44 12 -1 5^9 54 N. W.'ly. 1 n. c. ni. Wed. 19 ■98 45 1.5-5 + 12 14-2 55 Calm. o. s. Tiiur. 20 3000 45 14 3 10 54 N.K.Calm. 10 o. ni. s. Fri, 21 •13 45 2 -12 -5^4 53 N.N.W. 3 n. c. m. iSat. 22 •36 48 Zero. 8 3-5 57 f« 5 11. C. (J. Sun. 23 •38 45 + 9 6 + 2^4 55 W.N.W. 3 U. C. 111. Mon. 24 •09 47 9 + 4 9 54 West. — Tues. 25 •02 46 3 -6 0-2 52 S. W.'ly. 2 n. V. W'L'd. 26 •07 43 4 2-5 1-4 52 S.K. 1 o. ni. Tl.ur. 27 29-90 43 1-5 8 - 1-6 53 N.N.E. 2 O. III. Fri. 28 •79 42 Zero. 2 1-4 52 N.N.W. 1 — Sat. 29 ^Shu. 30 •70 •67 44 43 - 3 6 15 13 10-1 10-7 57 54 Northerly. <> I 2 11. c. Oecasional eonis- cations in S.K. Mon. 31 •68 44 10 10 16-4 + 50 + N.N.W. 3 B. c. ni. quarter. 5 A M., flashes of aurora to west- ward. + 29-83 44 30 15 45 54 ''M i L L 514 APPENDIX. METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.— For November, 1853. Kept on board ILM.S. " Resolute," Capt. II. KuUctt, C.B., wintering in the Pack, S.W.S. 28' from C. Cockburn. Lat. 74° 41' N., Long. 101° 22' W. I( I ■ 353. he Pack, S.\V.S. 28' Remarks, &c. 9,30, observed faint flashes of auroiaj tothcsouth\vard.| 6.30 A.M., observed a meteor S.ii.W.| 11.0 A.M., ob- served a meteor! N.E. 11,0 P.M., halo round the moon. I .5.0 P.M., observed a circle round the 3). 7.0 A.M,, fla.shos 0(1 aurora to soiitli-' ward, and imlo round the ]). ! z. AVPENDIX. 515 METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.— For December, 1853. Kept on board H.M.S. "Resohitc," Capt. Henry Kellett, C.B., wintering in the Pack, S.W. by S., 28 miles from C. Cockburn, Lat. 74° 41' N., Long. 101° 22' W. Temp. A ir. ., Wind i. Date. Darom (Alter.) Titer. Lowe Weather. Remarks, &c. Max. Min. Mean. Direction FortT, Thur. 1 29-68 49 16 23 19 + 59 North. 2 «. m. c. Faint flashes of au- Frid. 2 •56 49 18 26 21-7 62 It »1 B. m. [rora to S.W. Sat. 3 •60 50 17 25 21-7 62 >i 1 n 7 P.M., fine arch o( aurora S.S.E.toW. Sun. 4 •77 47 24 36 32-2 C4 Calm. B. [alt. about 25°. Mon. 5 •80 48 35 38 36-7 61 West. 9« B. m. Tnes. 6 •82 45 30 38 34-5 59 »» 1 B. C. 1 , faint arch of au- Wed. 7 •78 45 37 42 40-3 54 Calm. n. [rora S.W.toW. Thur. 8 •68 46 34 40 36-4 54 N.E. 1 B. C. L. 8 P.M., a faint arcli of aurora, pa^stnt: Frid. 9 •84 45 36 40^5 37-9 55 « »f B. throiigli tenith, 'S.E [to S.E. Sat. 10 3005 43 40 43 41-9 57 Calm. H 1 A.M., mercury fro- Sun. 11 •08 42 38 41 39-5 57 N.W. 1 »» zen, 9 P.M., a bright me- teor, N.N.W. Mon. 12 •04 44 27 37 33-7 55 We.«t'ly. 1 B. C. J P.M., circle and Tues. 13 •00 43 22^5 26 24-3 56 S.Wlv. 1 o. n). halo round the (T Wed. 14 •06 43 15 21 16-6 58 N.W'fy. 1 o. m. diam., about 45°. Thur. 15 •10 44 18 21 191 57 9f 3 B. c. m. Frid. 16 •02 43 16 23 19-4 57 fl 4 o. m. q. Sat. 17 29^96 45 14-5 21 16-4 58 N.N.W. 3 B. c. m. 4,30 P.M., observed a very brif>l)t cirr1< Sun. 18 •96 45 22 29 25-2 58 n 1 B and pi-ismatic rolour.' [round 3) . 5.30 P.M., observed Mon. 19 •86 45 27 315 28-8 57 North. >i J> [a brilliant meteor. Tues. 20 •75 45 24 27 25-9 55 N.N.W. 6-9 n. m. q. z. P.M., a faint halo round the % Wed. 21 •79 46 27 33 29-9 55 Nortli. 3 B. m. l A.M., a bright pa- Tliur,22 •58 45 30 41 35-3 55 raselene. 1 1 , read pa- Frid. 23 •61 43 40 44 41-8 52 1 1 B. c. m. B. c. per. Arch of aiirura from N.W., throngli zen., 0-4.5. Read pa- per. C P.M., aurora t< [the S.W. 11 P.M., flashes of Silt. 24 •77 44 31-5 40 36-6 55 N.W. aurora from W. to Sim. 25 •81 42 29 33 30-8 r.2 55 56 S.E. S.S.E. 4-6 4 n. c. q. z. B. c. n). [S. An arch of aurora [from west to south. Mon. 26 •94 41 32 42 37-3 53 ti 1 »• Tues. 27 •67 44 40 43 41-7 53 N.W. 3 n. c. m. q. 7, flashes of aurora Wed. 28 3008 42 39 43-5 41^2 52 n 2 B. c. n'. [west to south. Tinir.29 •39 44 40 44 41-8 54 Eastly. 1 n. c. Frid. 30 29-93 45 13 41 26^7 54 Nortlilv. 2 B. c. m. Sat. 31 •51 46 6 16 10-4 fi9 N.N.W. 4.U m. q. z. 6 44 .10-4 ■■y il > tff; i' i I, I. 2 1 516 APPENDIX. METEOllOLOGICAL JOURNAL.— For February, 1854. Kept on board H.M.S. " Kcsolutc," Captain H. Kellett, C.B., wintering in the Pack, in Lat. 740 41' 30" N., Long. 101° 22' 00" W. Temp. Air. Winds. Date. Barom. .\neroid. Ther. Lower Deck. Weatlier. Rcmarlis, &e. Max. Min. Mean. Direction. I'orce. + + Wed. 1 29-91 48 32 3i 34^1 56 N.W. 6-3 u. m. q. Thur. 2 •96 4G 3-2 35 335 50 )9 4 «. c. Frid. 3 •85 47 33 42 38-1 55 5> 1 B. 11.30, Sim's semi- diam. above the horizon (a'oscnt 3 days). 3 p.m. mercury solid. Sat. 4 •68 45 30 42 344 57 Ea.st'ly. 99 0. m. 8. 7 A.M. ditto fluid. Snn. 3 •57 45 32 38 35-5 56 N.W. 4 0. m. q. Men. 6 •74 47 35 42 38-2 56 49 5 1!. c. m. q. Tucs. 7 •97 49 43 50 46-6 54 East. 1 n. c. Wed. 8 3010 46 49 50 49-4 51 «f 99 u. Thur. 9 29-93 45 48 50 49-4 65 N.W. 1 n. c. in. Frid. 10 •98 46 50 54 52-2 54 South'ly. >» B. m. Sat. 11 •93 45 47 52 49-1 56 » 3 u. Sun. 12 30-00 41 40 47 43-4 57 »» 4 0. m. z. Mon. 13 29-85 41 39 43 40-7 53 »» 3 B. c. m. Tues. 14 •51 45 32 43 37-2 52 S.E.'ly. 37 c. m. q. Wed. 15 •41 44 32 44 36-6 55 S.W. 2 B. c. m. Thur. 16 •68 45 43 53 48-4 54 S.E 1 «> Frid. 17 •68 43 47 53 50-0 56 N.V 1 B. Sat. 18 •30 45 45 50 47-7 58 •• 2 B. C. Sun. 19 •20 42 38 49 41-0 57 ^J 4 B. c. ni. Mon. 20 •33 41 33 41 35-8 53 N.N.U'. 3 B. c. 111. q. Tucs. 21 •52 45 23 41 32-7 52 N.W. 3 B. c. m. Wed. 22 -65 46 28 37 33-2 53 99 1 B. C. Thur. 23 -90 47 33 39 36-7 56 Calm. B. c. in. Adie's Ther. ro.'^c; 13° in the Q, Kew Stand. fiO. Frid. 24 30^29 47 27 35 32-6 56 N.W. 2 B. c. m. Sat. 25 •28 48 26 35 31^3 57 N.N.W. 4 B. c. ni. Sun. 26 29-89 46 27 33 30-5 57 » 8 B, m. q, z. Mon. 27 •99 47 21 27 24^2 57 »j 8 1-5 »» Tues. 28 30^05 51 20 27 23-6 56 West. 2 B. c. m. Temp, rose 18° in at noon. I 29^80 45^4 20 54 38-8 + 55 N.W.'Iy. Sf, B. c, m. We Th Fri Sat Sur Mo Tue We Thii Frici Silt. Sun Mor Tues Wed Thui Frid, Sat. Sun. Men Tues Wed Thui Frid. Sat. Sun. Mon. Tues. Wed. Thur. Frid. Me. C Note •/ APPENDIX. METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.— For March, 1854. Kept on board II.M.S. " Rcsohitc," Capt. H. Kellett, C.B., wintering in the Pack, in Lat 74° 41' 30" N., Long. lOl" 22' 06" W. 517 n the Pack, in Date. Thcr. Tempcrnture. WintU. State Barom. (hU.) Max. 12 Mill. Mean. 2'^ Direction. S.W.'ly. Force. 1-4 of Weather. Remarks, 4c. — — Wed. 1 29-73 50^4 26 19-4 + 55-5 0. m. s. Remarks, &c. Thur. 2 •89 51-0 27 34 31-6 54-8 North'ly. 6^1 o. q. T. Frid. 3 302 G 50-8 28 36 32-8 544 North 'ly. I B. m. Noon, temp, rose Sat. 4 •3-2 49-0 30 41 365 55-4 S.S.W. 1 B 26° in the 0. 30 P.M., snow was ob- served to melt on a Sun. 5 •20 47-1 34 41 38-6 54-3 Soutli. 1 1 n. c. tarpaulin exposed Mon. 6 29^99 46-6 26 42 37-7 .52-7 S.E. 1 B. c to the ©'s rays. 1 Tues. 7 •70 453 22 40 30-7 52-7 S.E. 1 B. c m. 11.30, Sim's semi- 1 Wed. 8 •74 49-0 13 31 20-1 54-7 S.E., N.E. 1 0. m. s. Noon, indistinct diam. aboA-e the 1 B. objects much dis- torted. horizon (a'oscni . 3 days). 3 p.m. Tluir. 9 •86 48-0 28-5 36 326 54-0 E.W. & N. I a c. Wind very vari- mercury solid. Frid. 10 •88 480 32 40 35^4 54 E., N.N.E. 1 B. c. able during the 7 A.M. ditto fluid. 1 Sat. 11 •77 50-0 36 44 40-3 560 North'ly. 1 B. day. Sun. 12 •76 46-0 37 44 41-4 56-3 N.N.W. 1 B. Mon. 13 •81 47-2 34 43 38-3 539 N.N.W. South. 2-4 B. 4-20 P.M., a faint halo round the Q with a bright parhe. lion at each extre. mity of horizontal diameter. Tues, 14 •51 47-4 29 41 33-1 58-0 S.E. 4 o. m. s. 11 P.M., halo round Wed. 15 •41 43-9 22 30 25-2 50-7 S.E., East. 41 o. m. s. the C Thur. 16 •76 47-6 17 25 211 54-7 E.N.E. 1-4 o. m. s. Frid. 17 •88 49-0 18 28 23-9 54-2 N.N.E. 2-3 B. c. m. Sat. 18 •93 50-0 28 34 29-8 56-0 N.N.W. 5-4 B. c. m Sun. 19 30-20 47-7 27 3G 31-7 54-7 N.West'ly. 31 B. c. m. Mon. 20 •06 46^2 25 35 30-0 55-0 N.N.W. 1-5 B. c. m. Tues, 21 29-69 48-7 25 31 29-2 56-8 N.N.W. 4 B. c m. Wed. 22 •94 47-7 24 34 28-7 54-7 N.N.W. 2 B. c. Thur. 23 30-20 49-2 29 36 33-1 53-9 N.N.W. 3-6 B. m. q. Frid. 24 •45 45-2 26 35 31-1 53-7 N.N.W. 35 B. m. q. 11 p. »r., faint flashes of aurora. Adie's Thcr. ro.^c^ Sat. 25 •63 45-7 30 33 31-5 .54-6 N.N.W. 2 B. m. 13° in the C. Sun. 26 •44 43-9 20 35 25-7 551 N.West'ly. 2-5 m. q. z. 1 1 A. M., distant Kew Stand. r.°. hummocks, mag- nified and dis- torted. Mon. 27 •31 42-3 25 36 30^7 55-3 N.W. 9^7 B. ni.q. z. 3 P.M., heavy snow Tues. 28 29^84 43-4 15 30 21^6 54-8 N.W., S.W 3 6-2 B. c. m. [drift. Temp, rose 18° in Wed. 29 •27 46-8 14 25 17-4 54 West. 1 B. c. m. at noon. Thur. 30 •37 46-6 16 24 20-7 551 North. 2 B c. m. Frid. 31 •46 42-2 16 34 22-9 55-1 N.E. 2 B. c. F. c m. I P.M., therm, in O showed 21° + 1 Means 29-91 + 471 12 44 29-7 54-7 N.N.W. h\ 1 Corr 12 2 46 10 30-7 1 i ccted • - Note.— It is somewhat remarkable that the maximum registration of thn therincineter during the past month should h.^ve occurred on the 1st. h I. 3 i'l I I 518 APPENDIX. METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.- For April, 1854. Kept on board H.M. Discovery Ship " Resolute," Captain H. Kellctt, CD., frozen up in Pack, in Lat. 74° 41' 30" N., Long. 101° 22' 06" W. - Temp. air. Wind! , Date. Barom. Thpr. (alt.) Lower Deck. Weather. Remarks, &c. '» Max. Min. Mean. Direction. b 40 -18 -31 256 57-4 N.E. 1 B. T. Cape Cockburn plainly' * \ visible without refrac- tion. 37-5 19 32 26-2 55-0 *t 1 B. 366 19 34 25-8 55-0 West. 1 B. m. 36-3 13 38 19 2 54-2 s.w. 4 o. m. 371 8 18 11-7 54-7 W.S.VV. 1 o. m. 8. 396 6 20 13-3 540 West I B. C. M. 42* 15 31 19-2 560 S.E. 1 B. C. 43-5 16 32 24-5 55-1 N.N.W. 2 B. C. 38-2 10 26 14-6 56-7 N.W. 2 B. m. 45- 6 18 11-2 57-2 N.N.W. 2 B. C. 46-4 6 20 12-5 56-7 S.W. 1 B. in. 46-4 + 1 20 7-9 53-2 S.E. 4 B. ni. z. 5 p. M. therm, up to zero, for the first time since Oct. 28, 1853. 45-3 7-5 7 2-7 566 S.W- 3 B. C. M. 42-4 - 4 15 10-2 52-5 N.W. 3 B C. 36-8 + 4 17 4-8 490 S.W. 56 B. C. 37-7 8-5 6 H-2 51-6 South. 4-1 B. C. 42-5 16 + 2 98 52-9 S.S.E. 1 B. c. m. 43-3 16 1-5 8-8 53-2 E.S.E. 3 B. C. 44-7 12-5 2 6-8 53-2 S.E. 1 B. C. 44-6 15 4 9-2 .54-7 If 1 B. C. V. 47-3 25 6 131 .55 6 99 2 B. M. Saw the first snow bunting. 51-3 10 1 5*3 54 8 Var. 1 B.f. 1 50-0 6 -11 -21 54-4 Calm. B. O. 47-2 9 13 2-0 55 7 Var. 1 B. C. 47-2 15 9 + 4-0 53-9 S.E. 1 B. C. 48-7 15 6 12-5 51-7 »» 1 B. C. 48-7 24 + 5 18-7 53-4 t) 37 B. m. Z. 51-1 29 12 21-9 55-8 9f 2-4 o. m. s. 52-7 15 1 97 55 N.W. 6-3 B. c. m. . • 52-0 17 - 2 3-9 52-2 N.N.W. 1 a c. V. Land about C. Cockburn very distinct. I + 29 -34 in up in Pack, in imnrkf, Ice. ackburn plainly' without rcfrac- herm. up to zero, } first time since 3, 1853. first snow bunting, lout C. Cockbiirn [istinct. A COMPENDIUM OP TRAVELLING OPERATIONS, &c. &c. - 520 APPENDIX. A CoMFEMDiCM of the Travelliko Oferatioks during the Spriko of 1853 by the Offi< Captain Hemrt'Kgllett, C.B., commanding the Western Branch of the Arctic compiled from Official Documents, bj Georob \ NAMES OP OFFICEHS COM- MANDING HI/EDGE PARTIES, AND NUMBER OK CHEW. Lieul. Bedratd Fim, and HTwi men. Wm. T. nomTille, Surgeon, two men and live Etquimaux dogs. Richard Rorhe.Mate, and eiKht man. Capl. Henry Kellett, and wTen men. niitinipiliihinK FIhr and Motto oTH.M. SledKe*. JuHN BARMOMr. Hope on, Hope ever.' Jahek FrruAHiu. 9 •• Deo Volenle." BaAUTY. " Mon Dieu est ma Roche." Erin. Dlrertion of Route. To propeed to the Bay of Mercy, Uarinj; Inland, and theniv throuKh the Prince of wales Strait to Nelson's Head, for traces of Expedition under Cap. Collinsun. Provisions SS days. As depAt and despatch slL'dne to above parly as far as Bay of Mercy ; then return with news. Provisions 25 days. To act ns auxiliary to almve parties, for three outward Jour neys } then to return Provisions 10 days. To assist overland Sarties, and advance epfit sledge for N.E partv. Captain's own. Provisions 10 days. Date of leaving and return. March 10. April 19. March 10. April 14. March 10. March 20. April 4. April II. 41 TIME. IIOL'RI.V DlVlilON OK DaV. Uncahpkii, 41 lo; 74 10 10 10 10 "AuxlliumabAlto." *«* For full accounts of the sleilge o|ierations, sec Parliamentary Papers. 1 14 14 14 Ahs'i-kaut or *ft)t HNRY, II. U.S. I'UA- H.IIMl. 14 it h rii S5 SCO tea 65 60 53 by the Offi- of the AncTio Its, by Qeorob TIME. >lvl•Io^ V. Ahmiract or .flMHKKV, II. U.S. 'I'UA' 1 14 14 h1 hi S5 360 ii65 9 14 14 05 - 60 APPENDIX. 621 CEiis AND Crews of Her Majesty's Discovery Ship " Resolcte " and Tender " iNxnEriD," Skarciiino Expedition under Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Knioiit, C.B. j F. M'DouQALL, Master of II.M S. "Resolute." Furthnt PoHltlon Bllained i Dale of rcacliiiiH ii. Bay of Merry, HarInK l>land. I,nt. 740 6' N. l.onii. 117" ■''«' W Var. lOHO E. April 6. SO miles S. W. of Cape Uunilasi March 29. At Cape Diindas, per order* from April » (o H. 5 Mn« South of Point Ile.irne. March 16. Thence to the ship, About midway between the ship and llecia and (.iriper Bay. April 7. DISTANCE. StATUTR HIMa TIIA- VRI.l'Kb. 181 I'^tl ts; .123 58 23 10-2 1^ I2'S Alt. ' .irty to Dr. l>omvllli>, and procei'ded with the aou slctyh( mvn. Emile do Brny, Kn- seiKne de Vaioeau, and ten m .11. I.leut. Oeorgp F. iMvuliaui) and Mven men. OeoTKe S. Nare«, Male, and wven men. Lieut. R. V. Hamil- ton, and Mven men niiilinRUlKhIng KlaKKiid Mnitu, uf H. M. Sledfte*. Htar or TUB .Ntmrii. .SL " Lead llinii III on." llKHO. " By Faith and Courage. ' UUCUVKHV. '« Per njare, per Tcrram. iier Oliripm.' I'bhibvkhanci!. "Pum spirn «p Fl.l tS'i \n HI 41 91 91 Ml 40 I .-J 945 Sfil 19 U17 .■>3(l 901 he Ofticers and ling Expcilition TIME. l)lVl.lo^ 1 ABvrnArT i'.. I or Jim KMts '**• II.K.H. 1 HA- 1 ■; 141 1(1) 9J 40 945 APPENDIX. b'23 Crows of Her Mujcstv's Sliip " Uisolute," and Tender " Intrepid," Cuptiiin Henry Kclktt, C'.H., under Captain Sir Edward Ik-lcltcr, Knight C. 13. — continued. Fimhxt PiMltlon Att.iiiiml : IlAto uf reaolJiiK Itf He. DISTANCE. RtATVTI Mll.n THA- VILI.IIU. 141 - 3fil I .•51 91 91 131 141 19 U15 Poinl M'CIInfock, i'riiice I'nirick Iilnnil. I.iit. 77°!«VN. LoniJ. 118' Jl/ W. June 17 and 18. Cape D« Bni!'! MeUI le Itland. I.at. 763 10' N. Ixm«. 1160 45' W. May a. iJ9 ,J30 901 Prince Patrick Ittland. Lnt. 77° fi' N. Lour. I20o .W W. May 29. 1.11(8 18-7 lea 440 •i*^ iiG.T >a-s Cape Narei. Eslintoun laland^ Lax. -,b° W N. I.onK. I1H0.1IV W. Var. 107° E. Mays. South shore of Hccia and (irimr Bay. Lat. 70"^ SO* N. Long. 109° 40' W. Vnr. 154 E. A|.ril 13. 181 13- 1 Sg6 8-0 1 1-6 630 43 109 r s |H Jl I* l6-2» ti!l7 W3 73 aa •»■ - •«3 I' 13'5 785 IS-4 105 7-7 1275 101 MKTKOKO. I.OtiV. Tamp. |f a s ^ 3! ti 9 |3 li " no 25(1 11-6 2811 II June '2 1 June 2 1 KKM.\KKS,&c. At Poinl Nlas nnilri'd mark» of Parry'* cart-wheelb In IM2II, Ni> tr.iin whatt'Ver of rillier K to lil» middle. On the I2ih May John Cooniben, Stoker, fell dvad upon the flue. On Prince Patrick Iiland, about lO'flrom the irs, several larch trees were found partly buried in the soil. At and near Ca|ie Manning pieceii of de rayed wood were iiicked up. At Caiie Smyth »■»■ seen a perfectly white inuik ox grating beside a black calf. A few pieces of |ielrified wood were found on south •ihore of Eglliitoun Island, in one pldce only. I'lie flue in Liildon's Gulf appeared to have been then for years, being composeetween Melville anil Eglintoun IslaniU was over old ice similar to that in Liddon's Uulf. The march across the land was rery fatiguing In conseiiuence of the quantity of fresh f^l' ,n snow Detained in tents by a N.W. g^le from 7th April to the llth. Temperature vacyiiiK from Ifio to 25° minus, being 5° lower than the temperatute or bn»rd, atlribuleil tu being 600 feet above the levtl of the sea. -\ 524 APPENDIX. Conipcii'liuni uf Travelling Opcrntions diirini; tlio Spring of 1853 by tlio Officers nnd coininaiidinti; the Western UrAiieh of thu Arctic Searching Kxpcdition NAMRH A\n ll.iNKUK TAUTY ItlclinnI Roche, )N(iite, ■ml MTMi iiirni I.lPiit. R. V. Iliimll- lull and neircii iiivn. (>. r, M'DouRall, Matter, A.U., and ■even men. W. T. DomTllIe, Sur- geoni and tcTen men. Rlrhard Roche, Mate, Lieut. . Sa- muel CresKwell, l.leul. Robert Wyn. niatt, and eleven men. PUtlniuliihlni Finn a*«l MuituuI'll.M. HIi'ilKm. liMAITk, " I wati'h for your return." lloHATiu Austin. " Spp« est nolathim poriciill.' John Dvkr. " Varla Rod Wra tisAvrv. " Mon Dieu est ma Rofhe.' IHreriInn of lluuu. To ivlaro driiAi for N.r! |iirty oti Ci)* MuiIkv, llini rtlurii. Provljlon* Ki dajri. CroM the land to Heria and (irli)er Hay, and etplorcN.K, iiiwatdi rrndc -.ty'i* Ship " llnsoliitc," mid 'roinlcr " Intrciiid," Cuptniii Henry Kellctt, CM., umkr Ciiptttiii Sir Edward IKklier, Knight C.i). — contmual. An-TNAcTiir **• r ii.ii.H. in 10 10 iHA- V PI run. Hi II ; 3 It !,0i 70 3(X) ■211 *r niHT.lXCK. ■IVX* .MllK. 1 HA- Kunhnl I'lwIUon VKI.i Kit. ailiiliiwl 1 li ILUvoT li rvtcliliiM II, iVi'. 1 1 j 1 i* i a \ HI H «! ■< ■/. Oniitf MiitlKi'. 1 Lit. ;.V'.'.r N. i,i.ii((. nil' VI' \v. Vnr. 1 >t > Kait. 73 17.- 8-1 1 IM • Aiirll 17. /\p|iiilnted U(J|I(U'VV(II1!I. I,al. TIP .-.N' N. l.oiiK. 1(14 J JO' W. 13,- 67.'i \l"l 13"H lUlii Ma> Kit. 'imllisN.iiri'oIni Kl'Uil, III rill llllll (iriper ll«y. 51) 115.' li',1 10.'. - Ms> K. Itav of Merrv. ! UiriiiK Island. May ill. 1711 41.- liv, l.V(. - Detaini'il on boani 3d.ii». North Slur, Btieuht-y l.land. :%\ •lO' i;- I(i0 - Juno 1. ! MK I TKl) HllV Itlk. rviM|i. -1 IS'. 19.- 13' INIi' 1i5tl I ! |7f I GO VIHI 1 ; u Hti-MAIIKM, Ac. .Mny I .lime i; Sliiy 1! Jul e 'i On rniie Muilur It mink mm wrrr r.unil ■ (rw wrrlm uflttrw.iriU liy l.lviilllKiiil Il.iinilliin'ii |i.irly, Init i)ii. Ilr-li i»n< until I'nr u>i'l 'I'hv Miiittieni ktuiii* mi^, nt ihU fitrly pfrloil. rnvtnil In iniiny |iliirtM Willi iiio>ii. .\pril 't, Mr>l pliirnilKiin niiin on wulli uliur* of llrcln and tiri|i«r liny. A lU'or wm olorrTiMl rrii«iinii from lliinillinn Island to Cape Klihanls. I.ii'iiii-ir.nl Hninlllim fvll In mill t'oiiinninilifr HlrlirnU nf II, !VI Hh v **.\M.lstnnfii,' on iliv iHlli May, alnul .'t nillii .s. K. nf Capi. Ill i-ti.'itilH, nnil frniii llit-nre prm'^'Jiil to reiitli'/voui.. Wuter.fuwl and |{ulli> bni'dlng in ravliiisun tclum. Arrompnnled I.ii'iitpnnnt llnniiltcn nirnss Die land In llivia Hnil liriper II. ly. 5 dvtr wt-Ti* sven i-rosklnK o^er towariU I'apr Muil^ti., Helurni-il IVoin llvilii ami UrlpiT Ilay In 'i^ liuuris ton and one third inarchva. llonvy rain Ml at " InvoMlun'or " on ihe ISih May. U'aIrr tbiind on thv liinil the snmv d.iv. Coal clitt'- I'oiind {I niittti S.K. nf Cape Ilatnllton, at an i-'evatlop iif too Itei. Mu-k oxen and hares vtry iiiinii'roiis oi. Mtlville Island on rrnirn. No ramivora seen ; anil r< inainii of musk men left at Cupe Uundai two niontli: previout untuuvhed. Sludgy ire was (inst olisirted ncnr I'oint Fraier on Ihf ytih May. and water the fullnwInR ilny near Ca|)e Ca|iel. V nuiiik oxen killed, and deer >ci'n on Ilyain Martin Island. One deer killed, and many more men on Baker Island. Duiks lint teen near Capt Martyr 28th May. Heart numerous. I 526 APPENDIX. Compendium of Travelling Operations during the Spring of 1853 by the Officers nnd commiinding the Western Braneh of the Avetic Searching Exjiedition N.XMKS AMI IIANKUF I'AIITY HIrharil Kochr.Malp, one tiiiin, and tivi< L'kqulinaui i1i>ks, niMinsulihlnB Fla)( nnd Mottoora. M.SInlKet- HlAVTV. V\lll. H. Kirhnnts. ('U'rk, 111 rhnrue. luo men, Riul live Ksquiinaux (loRa. I.ieiil. n arrance and com- K'ete de|iAt al Fife arbour, cut iiliipt' naineii on uiidstonr. rroTiiloni 7 dajri. Crosi land vllh cart, and advance with de|>Al for Comman- der M'Clmtuck to Cape Fisher. ProTisioiu 16 (Ujri. Convey cart flrom Win- ter llarhniir to I.id- don'ii (in'f for I.ieut. Alvcliani's return. Provisions 12 dajrs. To run mer. distance between ship and Winter llarb.iur. Pick up articles left Itv Dr. Onniviile S. W. of Point Hrarne. ProvUlons 18 days. nate of leaving and return. TIMK llovRi.v Division I UF Dav. June 4. June 18. May 9. Ma> 13. Maj 19. June S. June X. June 14. June 14. June SI. 14 .'.J Kncamfri). Hi s H 10 91 10 *i 14 10 10.1 lOi in 14 141 14 \HtlTHArr OK Jni II.NHV, II H.S. '1 KA- VKI.I |M). 1 =•1 ill i s - 116 36 86 • ISJ i 101 • 70 Nu<(.-The Force < niplo.vcd on the above l^crvice ainuuultd to 3 1 Ufllcir't and Mm and 10 Dufpii .^^-, -/ APPENDIX. 527 5 OlTlocrs niul iig Expcditiun riME. AiisiHA* T ity Jim liNKV, II U.S. 'I'HA- V|(|.l l\n •9 ifi Hi M UJ .16 116 Crows of llor Majesty's Ship " UosolutL- " and Tender " Intrepid," Captain Henry Kellett, C.I3., under Captain Sir Edward Belcher, Ivniglil CM. — continuaft Furthnt rmlltun «ll:>iiir.>.' uhsi'Mt't*. Juiiv IS. 86 15 Ibi Piiint 1 1 came. Mk; Vi. 14 101 70 a Mtii and 10 t)oiri Cajw Fishi'r, Hwla and Urli>cr Hay. June 3. DIST.VNCK. KrATiTK MimuTha* VKI.I KU. Mt Moiilh of Parry'* l,aK«oii. l.at. 7.>o 7' N. LonK. lllu^O' \V. June 9. of l*ulut llearne. June 18. 4.'? 31).-> S0^ •IS-i 1G!I a-ii 1411 lt|-tM> of com- inuniiMiiUK Willi ('a|it.iin Kellett. Clt. Todk Tarry* record from niini on Point NIas, and dun fur coins { but none were found. I On rccrn>sinR the land from I.iddnn'a (iiilf the snow w»> p fast dlMipiie.irtnK IVoin the land oti the Kouth t-o.isl ; I huch w" Oil' t'a|>v llounly Heveral Uritc holea were observed. lletnrntnKi the men were wadlntt through exteiisiv< Voola of water, often leaching an klgli a» the middle. ;a or KS UltlcerH and Men, allowing the Powc f 'ii Dogs to be equal lo (hat of I Man. J 528 APPl'NDIX. Abstract of Thavellixg Operatioks for Autumn 1852 and Spuing 1853. ■ DliUnce tra- New Coast Quantity of Meat Days ab- velled i Line; Game procured travelling ; Miscell. sent. Statute Miles. Htaluta Miles. .\utumn 185V. Spring ll>5.t. :.. Iba. OHlccrt' Names. Rank. 1 P, RenL-irls. ■I ic 3 3 i i i 3 1 1 i 1 "o. 1 1 1 £ i 1 g ^ 1 i c 5* . it i III •1 — H 9 10.-!l (. 1 '. 5* 14 . returned with Irtlers, • &c. from Cum. lulw V Accompanied l.t. ,Me i Geo. S. NarcH - .Alate '^5 69 91 in 768 980 — — - I — IV — 30 — A — — 304 306 2 • cham as aiixiliarv in! the Autumn of is:?! and Spring of IS.'i,-. Assecondlol.iiut. Piini En^elxne . - . . • . . > • in Auiumn of Kil Gmile de Bray . de V,.L>se.iu 17 ■•ft. 62 - - - . 1 1 . 5 . . 73 73 5 - arA in the samf rapii-l city til Com. M'Cliii-; — WW 440 641! - - - — - - - — - — took 1853. Sent to arrange aiid sbiftj df-pdts, and cut narrn^ of ship and tinder on \V. H. Richards ■ Clerk In Charge. - 5J 51 - • - i 8 8 " 9ti 92 sandstone houlder. ■ 1 V .1 2 . 1ft . . 543 TolaU - -<\ 7 litHl 7358 86.14 179(1 77 186 81 m 63 5 144 15 18 4 'i094 ' Grand ToTAr, - - • - • ;2fi !6 6.') .') 15it 15 18 4 W37 BG37 61 10 - 4 ■f 853. Rvmarls. DurlnK the Aiiiiiira| ISoVCom.M'c iiiiiukl cr(K.-e of Asrienltare " Domeiticatcd Animali Arts, tttanttCBttnrCB, ftnd Arehltceftnra. Bonnie On the Screw rropeller - t Brande'i Dietionart of Science,*e. 1 " Ornnic Chtmlstrjr- • 4 ChcTTcul on Colour • • . . 6 CrnT'aCiTil Engineering . . 6 Eattlake On Oil Painting - - 7 Owllt'i Encyclo. of ArchTteetnre - H Jameton'i Sacred A Legendary Art 10 " Commonplace- Book - 10 KOnia'aPictoiialLirforLnUier - 8 ndon'a 13 10 liondon'a Rural Architecture Moselejr'aEngineerinit - Richard>on's Art of Honemnnahip 18 Serivenor on the Iron Trade - - 19 Steam Engine, by the Artiean Club 4 Tate on Strength of Materials - 21 Ure'aDictioBar]rofArt*,fte. - 23 Biography. Arago'i Autoblograplijr Livea orScirntiAc Men 23 3 Bo4«nitedt and Wagner's Schamjl 23 Brichtwell's Memorials of Opie - 17 Bnckingham'a (J. S.) Htmoira • 5 Bunsen'B Hippoljtns ... 6 Chesterton's Atttobiography - - A Clinton's (Fynes) Antnbiography 6 Cockayne's Marahal Tnrenno - 23 Dennlttoun's Strange ft Lumiadcn 7 Forster'sDt Foe and Churchill - 23 Freeman's Lift of Kirby - - 11 Haydon'a Autobiography ,bjr Taylor 8 Hayward's (Jhcsterflcld and Selwyn 23 Holeroa'a Memoirs ... 23 Holland's (Lord) Memoirs . . U Lardner'a Cabinet Cyclopadia - 12 Mannder's Biographical Treasury- 13 Mayne's Csar Nicholas I. - - IS Memoir of the Dnkeor Wellington S3 Mamolrsof James Montgomery - 13 Merirala'aHamoIrs of Cicero • IS BnsaeU's Memoirs of Moore - - IB •< Life of Lord Wm. Russell 18 Southey'iLUb of Wesley - - 20 *' Life and Correspondence 20 Stephen's Ecclesiastical Biography 20 Sydney Smith'a Memoirs - 20 Taylor's Loyola - - - • 21 " Wesley ... - 21 Townsead's Eminent Judges - 21 Waterton's Autobiography ft Essays 23 Hook* of Qencral Utility. Aetoc's Cookery .... 3 Black a Trsatise on Brewing . '- 1 Cabinet Oatettecr . . . - S '' T.nipvjip « tk K ■* n Cutt'a lavalid'a Own Book - - 6 Oilbart's Logic for the Million • H HlnUonEt^uette . . - How to Nurse iiick Children- - 9 HudsoB'sEiccntor's Guide - - 10 " On Making Wills - - 10 Lardner's Cabinef Cyclopedia • 12 Loudon's StIMnstmcUon - - 13 " Amateur Oardener - 13 Haunder's Treasury of Knowledge 1 3 *< Biographical Treasury 15 " ScientiBc Treasury - IS " Treasury of History • IS •< Natural History - • IS Piseator'a Cookery of Fish • - 17 Pocket and the Stud ... 8 Pycroa's English Reading • - 18 Pages. Recce's Medical Guide - - - 18 Rich's Comp. to L«tin Dictionary 18 Richardson's Art of Horsemanship 18 Ri'ldle's Latin Dictionaries • - 18 Roget's English Thesauius • .18 Rowtoa's Debater - - - • 18 Short Whist 19 Thomson's Interest Tables '- - 21 Webster's Domestic Economy • 24 Wf »t on Clulrtrrn's Diseases - - 24 Willich'8 Topular Tables - - 24 AVilmot's Blackttona - - • 24 Bdtany and OardenlnK. Convematlons on Botany . - C Hooker's British Flora - . . (i " Guide to Kew Gardens • 9 Lindley's Introduction to Dotany 11 " Theory of Horticulture • 11 Loudon's Ilortus Britannicus - 13 " Amateur Gardener - 13 " Self-Instruction - - 13 " Trees and Shrubs - - 13 " Gardening - - • 13 " Plants - - - 13 Tcreira's Materia Medirn - -17 Rirers's Roar Amnteur's Guide . 18 Wilson's British Mosses - - 21 ChrotioIOBy. Alcorn's Chronology - - - 3 Blair's Chronological Tables • 4 Bunsen's Ancient F.gypt - - S Haydn's Bealson's Index - • U Johns and Nicholas's Culendnr of Victory ----- 10 Nicolas's Chronology of History - 12 Commerce and Mercantile Affairs* 3 8 Francis's Stock Exchange - - 8 Loch's Sailor'a Guide - - - 11 Lorimer's Young Master Mariner 1 3 M'Cullocli'sCommereeftNatigation 14 Scrirenor on Iron Trade - - 19 Tliomson's Intarest Tables - - 21 Oriticiami History, and Memoirs. Austia'a Germany .... 4 Balfour'a Sketches of Literature - 4 Blair's Chron. and Hiator. Tables • 4 Bunsen's Ancient Egypt • - S " Hiiipolytus ... 3 Burton's History of Scotland . 5 Chalybaeus's tlodera Speculative Philosophy .... 6 Coaybeare and Howson's St. Paul 6 Eastlake's H istory of Uil Painting 7 ErsXine's History of India - - 7 Francis's Annals of Life Assurance 7 Gleig's Leipaic Campaign - - 23 Gumey's Historical Skctchee - 8 Hamilton's Essays Arom the Edin- bnigh Review . . . . g Haydon's Autobiography , by Taylor 8 Holland's (Lord) Whie Party - 9 JeflVey's (Lord) Contributions - 10 Johns and Nicholas's Calendar of Victory . - . - . lo Kemble's Anglo-Saxons - U Lardner's Cabinet Cyclopiedia - 12 Macaulay's Grit, and Hist. Essoys 14 " History of England - 13 " Speeches - - - 13 Mackintosh's Miscellaneous Worts 14 " Hlstor« of England - 14 M'Culloeh'sOeograpmcalDictionar} 14 Martincau's Church History - - IS Maunder's Treasury of History - IS Mayne's Ctar Nicholas I. - • IS Memoir of the Duke of Wellin gton 2S Merivale's History of Rome - - IS Atkinson's Shipping Laws - Francis On Life Assurance - Merirale's Roman Republic- Milner's Church Hiat»ry Moore's (Thomas) Memoirs, &c. • Mure's Greek Literature Kanke's Ferdinand A Maximilian Rirh'sComp.to Latin Dictionary Iliddle's Latin Dictionaries - Rosers'sEssRyafromthcEdlaburgh Review - - - . . Roget'B English Thesaurus • Russell's (Lady Itachel) Letters . " Life of Lord W. Russell St. John's Indinn Archlprlagu Schmiti'a History of Greece Smith's Sacred Annals - Southey's Doctor - . - . Stephen's Ecclrsiaatiral Rioi .aphr '< Lectures on Frrnth A storir Sydney Smitli's Works - " Silect Works " Lectures " Memoirs Taylor's Loyola .... " ^Vealey . . . . Thirlwall's H istory of Greece Thirty Years of Foreign Polipy - Townsend's State Trials Turkey and Christendom Turner's Anglo Kaxuns " MitVilIpAges - " Sacrrd H M. of the World Velise's Austrian Conrt Wliitelocke's Swedish Embassy - P»gei IS IS le IH 23 IN 16 18 IN Is IN lU IB 20 20 '.ill •Ml 23 '.ill 23 21 21 21 21 21 2:i ii' K '.'.( 2:i U GeoKraphy and Atlases. | Arrowsmith'a Geogr. Diet, of Bible 8 Butier'sGeography and Atlases • S ; Cabinet Gazetteer - - - • t | Cornwall, ita Mines, Ac. - - 23 Dalton's British Guiana • 7 Durrleu's Morocco - - - S3 Hughes'i! Australian Colonies - 2;i Johnston's General Gasetteer - Ii i M'Cullojh's Geographical Dictionary 14 " Rttisia and Turkey - 23 Milner's Baltic Sea - . . ]S Murray's Encyclo. of Geography - 16 Sharp'B British Gasetteer - in Wheeler's Geography of Herodotua 24 JnTcnlle Books. Amy Herbert .... 19 Earl's Daughter (The) - - .19 Experience of Life . . . jh Gertrude 19 Gilbart's Logic for the Young - - H Howltt's Boy's Country Book - !i " (Mary) Children's Year - b Katharine Ashtun - - l!i Lancton Panonag* - - • IK Mra. Marcet's Conversations - - 14 Margaret Pereival - • - - i'i Pycrofl's English Reading - •lb Medicine lind Bvatfty. Brodie's Psychological Inquiries - 3 Bull's HtnU to Mothers- - - 8 " Managcmentof Children - 3 Copland's Dictionary of Medicine - Cust't Invalid's Own Book - - Ii Holland's Mental Physiology • 8 How to Nurse Sick C^liililreii - . 9 Latham On Dlwasesoftlie Heart - 11 Moore Un Health, L)iseK■ West on Diseases of Infancy - ■ 24 MIscellaneons and General Literature. Atkinson's Sheriff-Law • .<• Austin's Sketc'.ics of German Life 4 Carlisle's Lectures and Addresses Zi CLASSIFIED INDEX. Pigr*. Clmlybacui'i Uodem SpfcuUtIr* I'liilotoiiliy .... a lM»ae9 of XelipM c/ Failh , - 7 KcUpw of Faith ....'; Grrit'i Eiujrt on Political and Social Sctenco .... 8 llasMll on Adulteration of Food • 8 lUjriln'i Booli of DIanitIca - • S Holland'a Mental Phjraiulogj • U Iloolier'i Kew Ouide . . . o llowltt'a Rural Llfa of England • tt •< Viaitato RcmarliablcPlacca » Jamcaon'a Commonplact Book - Ifl Jelfrejr'a (Lordi Contributiona - 1» I.aatofthaOldSquirea - • ll) Macaalay'a Crit. and Hiat. Eaaaya 14 " Speechea - . - la Mackintoatt'aMiacellantoua Worka 14 Memoira of a Maitre-d'Armea • 23 MaiUand'a CImrchin the Catucomba 14 Paacal'aWorka.by Pearce • -17 Pycrofl'aEngliihReadina - - lu nich'a Comp. to Latin Dictionary 18 RIddle'a Latin Dictionariea - - 18 Rowton'a Debater • • IH Seaward'a Narrative ofhiaShipwreckia Sir Roger de Coverley - • • 20 Smith-a (Rev. Sydney) Worka - 2U Southey'a Common-place Booka • 20 " The Doctor &o. - - 20 SnureHtre'g Attic Pliltmopher • ' Iloiae lad Travels. ! and Hound in Ceylon 4 ntinental Tour • - U dina .... 6 irkey and Greece - 6 iRnakia - - 33 . . . . 83 Swill Traveto - • 83 Biddnlph'i Norway - H •hilippinea- . • 23 Coriica • - • i!3 .in Siberia . . 9 id; and the Bible • 24 "^inBritUny • -84 Student in Munich • 9 } Victoria ... 9 B Empire . - -10 et'aTartary& Thibet 83 itralian Coloniei - 23 iipeeti ofNatur* • 10 inada- - - - 83 It. Petenburg • • 23 ay - . - - 83 ■ of a Trirellcr 11*83 Turkey and Black Sea 14 - iifomto ... 15 ic Diicovery . . • U ilea in Iceland • - 83 Sebaitapol • .IS iccadiUytoPera . 10 rth Weit Panage - 17 Irian, Ac. • - - 17 gte round the World 23 ealand Sketrlici - 17 Arctic Boat Vojage 18 mitive ... 19 ,) Indian Archipelago 1 9 in.F.)Ramblea - 19 Arctic Voyage - -21 toria- - - - 24 an Wandering! - 83 Pietlon. [eld - - hby'a Diary - ilUVerccchio Joverley . 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