IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) t 1.0 I.I 1.25 1^ 12.5 «» IK 112,2 ^ m !l 2.0 U ill 1.6 Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) B73-4S03 \ ^^ % V ^ N? :\ \ » %^^ ^y. <> % %^ U '%'■ .. .imt-H Ltf r CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHM/ICMH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques The c( to the The Institute has attempted to obtain the best original copy available for filming. Features of this copy which may be bibiiographically unique, which may alter any of the images in the reproduction, or which may significantly change the usual method of filming, are checked below. □ Coloured covers/ Couverture de couleur □ Covers damaged/ Couverture endommagie □ Covers restored and/or laminated/ Couverture restaurAe et/ou peiliculAe D Cover title missing/ Le titre de couverture manque I I Coloured maps/ Cartes gAographiques en couleur Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ Planches et/ou illustrations en couleur D D D Bound with other material/ ReliA avec d'autres documents Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion along interior margin/ La reliure serr6e peut causer de I'ombre ou de la distortion le long de la marge int^rieure Blank leaves added during restoration may appear within the text. Whenever possible, these have been omitted from filming/ II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajouties lors d'une restauration apparaissent dans le texte, mais. lorsque cela Atait possible, ces pages n'ont pas At4 filmies. Additional comments:/ Commentaires supplAmentaires; L'institut a microfilm* le meilleur exemplaire qu'il lui a 6t^ possible de se procurer. Les details de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-Atre uniques du point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier una image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une modification dans la m6thode normale de filmage sont indiqu^s ci-dessous. □ Coloured pages/ Pages de couleur □ Pages damaged/ Pages endommag6es □ Pages restored and/or laminated/ Pages restaurAes et/ou peiiiculAes I — I Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ D This item Is filmed at the reduction rtf o checked below/ Ce document est film6 au taux de reduction indiquA ci-dessous. Their possit of the filmin Origir begini the la sion, other first p sion, or illu Pages d6color6es, tachetdes ou piqu6es Pages detached/ Pages ddtach^es I I Showthrough/ Transparence □ Quality of print varies/ Quality inigale de I'impression r~n Includes supplementary material/ Comprend du matiriei supplAmentaire Only edition available/ Seule Mition disponible Thjii shall TINU whici Maps differ entire begin right requi meth Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to ensure the best possible image/ Les pages totalement ou partiellement obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, etc., ont 6t6 fiim^es 6 nouveau de fa^on A obtenir la meilleur^ image possible. 10X 14X 18X 22X 26X 30X i y 12X 16X 20X 24X 28X 32X The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks to the generosity of: University of British Columbia Library L'exemplaire film6 fut reproduit grAce d la g6n6ro8it6 de: University of British Columbia Library The images appearing here are the best quality possible considering the condition and legibility of the original copy and in keeping with the filming contract specifications. Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le plus grand soln, compte tenu de la condition et de la nettet6 de l'exemplaire film6, et en conformity avec les conditions du contrat de filmage. Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed beginning with the front cover and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All other original copies are filmed beginning on the first page with a printed or illustrated impres- sion, and ending on the last page with a printed or illustrated impression. Thj last recorded frame on each microfiche shall contain the symbol — ♦► (meaning "CON- TINUED"), or the symbol V (meaning "END"}, whichever applies. Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too la-ge to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, as many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les exemplaires originaux dont !e couverture en papier est imprimie sont film6s en commenpant par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration, soit par le second plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commenpant par la premiere page qui comporte una empreinte d'impression ou d'iliustration et en terminant par la dernidre page qui comporte une telle empreinte. Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la dernidre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: le symbole —^ signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbole V signifie "FIN ". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film6s A des taux de reduction diffdrents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmA A partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en pienant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 v^ n s de Mi I i eii Indians J ^ , , ■ . j #«*T M0» marshv level wit (nearly fxiinct) S Jiiyer fidl of sanA ^ )S ^, «»<,. ^«)'l^^3' ""'Xa ^.. G^r^lfeilj ,A#" •'■*^ fi'^ . riyo. % '"n n. '«/>», (»*■.., ,.„#-* ^m„;f---' V, T a ti a n, d Indiana j ^ 6^fnj <£« Butte j n \s- VuJi, Ho 17 ^ -«'J^, '*^''//, Irv C, 160 „ . I50 ^O/ In ■ ^'"^ v/~- '~''\., I \ :r" .»•.' V 'v. !.M « si 111 n ik T> I ■fj^ff!* 1[ ^>w"n»*'*«*««''^ YUKON KWICH PAK RIVER. ( lb lUastrate l^'Wkja^eca Paper .) The Mouths of the River are from die shetdies oflCE.E. SmiSi. of the ifesiem Vmon Tdegraph Ejcf edition, . The lower course is compiled from Lieut*. Za^os fan, SJJf. and other data. Hie upper course to Fort Yukon, is laid down from the bearings, distanoes, and notes of JfT F. Whymper. Constoicted a drawn ty XAiTOTrennJiL . Puh^ far Ihe Journal of the Rcyal Btoaraphxcal Soefby J.Xurray.AlbemarU- Sir'. London, IH68 . Ami j)u14ki \^% ^\%- \'" *! r T I A « « H C O C IBO 170 ^H^ r"fVr~ ' 14 ir>3 152 151 I5j0 l4jS 'I *., V '"Xr c1l;AC Circle i ne I t Excerpt from the Jour al and Proceedings of THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, 1, Savile Row ; FRANCIS EDWARDS, 83, High Street, Makylebonk, W. ■a:j > VIII. — A Journey from Norton Sound, Bering Sea. to Fort Youhon [Junction of Porcupine and YouJcon liive, ^ , By Frederick Whymper, Esq. Head, April 27, 1868. The journey of wliicli my present paper treats was made in the service of the Western Union Telegraph Expedition, often known as the " Eusso- American " or " Collins' Overland Tele- graph." This enterprise, in which the Company is said to have spent 3,000,000 dollars (in gold), was, in 1867, abandoned, solely owing to the success of the Atlantic Cable, and not from any difficulties in the way of the undertaking itself. Our expedition was largely Arctic in its character, and affords perhaps the latest confirmation of the possibility of men enduring extreme temperatures and working hard at the same time. During the winters of 1855-6 and 1866-7 v.e had stations at the head of the Ochotsk Sea and at the Anadyr River, Eastern Siberia, at Plover Bay and Port Clarence, on either side of Bering Straits, two in Norton Sound, and one on the Great Youkon River, besides numerous parties in somewhat lower latitudes. Our men were engaged both exploring and building tele- graphs at temperatures frequently below the freezing point of //-^ 220 Whymper'« Journey in Alaska, mercury. Minus 58° Fall, was our lowest recorded temperaturo in lIusHJan America. Now, in wueh a climate, this work was no joke. The Himple process of «ligging a hole to receive tho telegraph pole uecanio a diflicult op(;ration ^vhen the ground was a frozen rock with 5 feet of snow on tho top of it, and where tho pick and crow-bar were of more use than the spade or shovel. The axe-man, too, getting out poles and logs, found his axe ever losing its edge or cracking into pieces. All this was in addition to transporting materiel and provisions. Yet our men persevered, and succeeded in putting up at least one- fourth of the whole line, and I can sympathise with the feeling that prompted some of them at Unalachleet, Norton Sound, on hearing of the withdrawal of our forces and the abandonment of the work, to hang black cloth on the telegraph poles and put tliem into mourning ! Tho Youkon is by no means a familiar river to us, yet it certainly deserves to rank among the great streams of America. Its name is of Indian derivation. " Youkona" is the term used by tliree-fourths of the natives on its banks. But, near the mouths, other tribes call it the Kwich-pak (pron. Kwif-pak) and the Russians on their first entry into tho country adopted their name. Uotli terms signify "' big river." Its course is very worthy of notice, being a rc^production, as it were, of the outline of tho lower coast of llussian America from the peninsula of Aliaska to the Stekina lliver. Tne first Russian travellers on it were employes of the Fur Company. Glazoonav in ISJJf), Malakoff in 18.18, and Dcrabin in 1830, went from Norton Sound to the Youkon ; the latter, in 1842, commenced the erection of the Post at Nulato, which long bore his name. The same year Lieut. Zagoskin, of the Russian Imperial Navy, arrived at St. IMichael's, Norton Sound, on a mission in tie interests of the Russian- American Fur Company. His principal journey, made under great dis- advantages, was so far successful that he reached a point on the Y'^oukon some 1 20 miles above Nulato, and he then descended the river to its mouths. His work, pulalished in Russian, was translated into English for our expedition, but was never printed. In 1850-1, members of Captain, now Admiral, Collinson's Expedition, went through from Norton Sound to the Youkon, and one brave Englishman, Lieut. Barnard, met his death at the hands of the Co- Youkon Indians. His grave, near the Russian post of Nulato, where I spent a part of last winter, is in good preservation. At Unalachleet, Norton Sound, Captain Bedford Rim is very kindly remembered by both Russians and natives. I \ or Russian America. 221 I In 18G5, at tho commencemoiit of our cntorpriso, tho Horvicos of Miijor K(!nnicott wero socured by the J)in'<'t()rs of our (.V)in- paiiy to lead a party on the Youkon. This grntlemaii, an enthusiastic collector, liad spcait Hevoral years previously in the Hudson's Bay territory, in i\u) interests of tho Smithsonian Institute at Wa8hinvith it. Meantime the women were bringing in contributions of berries and fish in large " contogs," or wooden vessels, varying in shape from a deep dish to an oblong soup-tureen. The performance commenced by the actors therein ranging themselves in a square and raising these dishes of provisions to the four cardinal points successively and once to the skies Avith a sudden noise, like " swish ! " or the flight of a rocket. May-be it meant an offering to tlie seasons and to the great spirit. Then came the feast, and that over, a monotonous chorus with an accompaniment of gongs was started. The words of the song commenced " Yung-i-ya i-ya-i-ya," and con- tinued throughout " i/ung-i-ya." Then a boy sprung on the floor ; he was speedily joined by a second, then a third, till a circle of 20 was formed. Now they appeared violently attracted together, and now as much repelled ; now they were horrified at one another's conduct, and held their arms in warning ges- tures ; and again all were friends, and made pantomime of their happiness. In this performance there was nearly as much done by arms and bodies as with the feet. When tliere v/as a lull in the entertainment, small presents were brought round to all the strangers ; mine was a pair of boot-soles of seal-skin. , So decided an odour at length pervaded the ball-room, that we one by one left the lestive scene. The ludians kept it up for hours afterwards. Although there is much that is interesting in connection with mmmmm mmmmm m or Russian America. 225 this people, I must proceed to speak of our journey to the Youkon, mainly by a land-route, and one made constantly during winter by our men. The distance from St. Michael's is by this way but 225 miles, against nearly 700 by the mouths of the Kwich-pak or Youkon. We left Unalachleet on the 27th of October, and followed the course of the river of the same name for 25 miles, and then for the most part a valley direct to the Youkon. The snow was so deep and soft that the journey took us 11 days, although it was subsequently made in 4 or 5. Our light birch sledges (with bone runners) had five dogs a-piece when we started, and were heavily laden. I say " when we started," for our dogs infinitely preferred the luxuries and ease of an Indian village to our ser- vice, and deserted whenever they got a chance. " Ukalee," a small salmon dried, is the regular dog-feed of the country, whilst a soup is sometimes ftibricated at the Eussian forts. Contrary to Dr. Kane's experience, we found our dogs ivould eat beans properly softened, and even rice and bran, when mixed with a due proportion of oil, blubber, or fish. We were surprised at finding this a well-wooded country. Spruce, birch, and willow are abundant within a short distance of the sea-coast. In camping, we could almost always, after clearing a space in the snow, lay down a bed of fir-brush for our blankets and hides to rest on. This with the certainty of a good log-fire, made any temperature endurable. Tents we rarely used at this time, but sometimes erected a semicircular screen of cotton-drill or canvas around our camp to shelter us from our only enemy — the wind. Our first care was always to put up everything eatable out of the reach of our dogs ; and as they do not object to old boots, skin clothing, and will fre- quently eat their own harness, it was a somewhat difficult task. At a distance of 25 miles from Unalachleet we came into the country of the Ingelete Indians, who speak a dialect entirely differing from the coast Indians, and one, as we found, more allied to the Co- Youkon. At their vilhiges of Igtigalik and old Ulukuk we spent some time. Their winter dwellings are under- ground, the roof only raised above the surface, and to get into them you have to crawl through a narrow passage a little over 2 feet in height. A square hole in the roof to let out the smoke of the fire below, and the narrow entrance-hole are the only openings, and when the fire gets low both are covered by skins, thus effectually keeping in all warmth, with a good deal of smoke and carbonic acid gas. The dogs, scrambling over the roofs, will sometimes tumble through the large smoke-hole on to the fire below, scattering cooking arrangements to the wind, and tl emsolves retreating with great alacrity. VOL. xxxviii. ' Q -■i 226 Whymper's Journey in Alaska, The second Ingelete village is prettily situated by a stream^ with rapids and fish-traps, and is the paradise of the neighbour- hood in regard to salmon-trout and rein-deer meat. Our course after leaving this happy spot followed more or less the Ulukuk range of mountains. They are a conspicuous landmark in this country, but do not, I think, exceed 3000 feet in height. Our course to the Youkon was in general terms north-east. The snow was so soft that, without snow-shoes, we sank in 2^ feet, and we accordingly wore them. In order to make a track for our dogs, we, with our Indians, often walked on a-head, returned, and again started forward, thus going over the ground three times. At snow-banks all hands had enough to do, in assisting the dogs to struggle up with their heavily-laden sledges. Near the Youkon are many warm springs, said never to freeze. One of them, I examined, and found innumerable bubbles rising to the surface — the water showing a temperature of 33° Fah., the air at the time being 23° colder. On the 11th of November, from a slight eminence, we saw a faint streak of blue over the woods; travelled hard to reach it, and at sun-down broke from the thicket, shot down a steep bank, and stood on the borders of an immense field of snow — the mighty Youkon ! Hardly a patch of ice was to be seen ; though huge hummucks in places had been forced on the sur- face, all was covered by a wintry mantle ; the river in but a few isolated streaks, still open and running swiftly. From bank to bank was not less than a mile, and several islands were visible in either direction. Within a short distance of the termination of the portage (or " peronose," as it is called by the Russians) that we had just travelled over, we found the Indian village of Coltog, where we again stopped. In our intercourse with these people, as with most other tribes, we found that the best goods for trading pur- poses were useful rather than ornamental ones. Axes, knives, flints, powder and balls, were all raucli inquired for, whilst rubbish was at a discount. Even beads were required to bo of a substantial nature, not easily broken. Our business with them was principally, of coui'se, in purchasing supplies or in paying for services rendered. The course of the Youkon from Coltog upwards is for 65 miles very little east of north, till at the Cc-Youkuk " Sofka," or mountain, the great bend to the oast occurs. We found sledge travelling on the great river comparatively easy, and we arrived at Nulato on the 15th November to find fair quarters assigned to us, and a hearty liussian welcome from the men at the Fort. or Russian America. 227 — 6° Fah. was our lowest cold on this trip : later in the same month we had it down to — 36°. In December our coldest day occurred — 58^. January proved our coldest month, ranging from + 10" to — 49°. The Post at Nulato resembles the others, and differs only in having two watch towers. Zagoskin makes its lat. 64°, 42', 11" N.; long. 157°, 58', 18" w. It is the most interior and northern fort of the K. A. Fur Company, and is on the north- west bank of the river — on a level and comparatively open space bounded by two streams. Indians come hither from distances of 200 and 300 miles to barter their furs. The tariff last year was about l^d. in trade for one marten skin — and they have obtained as many as 5000 in one year — besides other furs, beaver, white, red, and more rarely black and silver-grey foxes. Free traders, doubtless now the country is open to them, will play great havoc. Soon the record too of the interior, as of the coast trade already, will be — to use the words of a well-known traveller — "^ White men, whiskey, guns, powder and ball, small-pox, debauchery, ex termination." Our quarters were warmed by an immense oven, and usually we could keep up suflScient heat. The floor, however, was sometimes intensely cold; I have tested it and found the temperature -f" ^°> ^^ 28° below fi-eezing ! I remember once hanging up some damp cloth ; near the roof it steamed, within a foot of the floor it was frozen hard with long icicles hanging therefrom. Our supplies from the resources of the country were very variable. At one time we luxuriated on Arctic grouse, or deer meat, and at others we were reduced to tea and bread. I had before seen Indians fishing through the ice, but was not prepared to see ii; done on a large scale, as on the Youkon. Early in the season large stakes were driven down through the ice to the bottom of the river. To these were affixed traps, consisting simply of a wicker funnel leading into a long basket, not unlike the eel-pots to be seen on the Thames — at Reading — and elsewhere. They are, however, of a larger size. Oblong holes above them were kept open through the ice by frequent breaking, and sometimes a great haul of fish was the result, when the traps were raised. The true Nulato Indians do not now number over 5 or 6 souls. At the period that our countryman, Lieut. Barnard, met his death, tlie Co-Youkons wreaked their vengeance on the Nulatos by surrounding their u'ldergrouud dwellings, stopping up the smoko and entrauce holes, and raising great fires over Q 2 228 Whymper'^ Journey in Alaska, them. All were either suffocated or shot. The Co-loukons never gave us any trouble, but are wilder Indians than those of the coast. Their true dress is a double-tailed coat, one tail in front and one behind. In various modifications this fashion extends to Fort Youkon and beyond. The women wear an ornament made of shells and running through the cartilage between the nostrils. Curiously, higher up the river, it is the men exclusively who adopt the same ornament. The tribes here mourn for the dead one year, and the women during that time often gather together, talking and crying over the deceased. At the expiration of that term they liold a feast, or "wake," and the mourning is over. Their graves are simply oblong boxes raised on posts, sometimes decorated with strips of skin hanging over them, sometimes with the posses- sions of the deceased (as a baidarre, or a birch-bark canoe with paddles) on the top of the box. Smaller belongings are put inside the box with the corpse. I cannot describe it better than by calling it a 4-post coffin ! They have certain superstitions with regard to the bones of animals, which they will neither throw on the fire or to the dogs, but save them in their houses or caclies. When they saw us careless in such matters they said it would prevent them from catching or shooting successfully. Also they will not throw away their hair or nails just cut short, but save them, sometimes hanging them in packages to the trees. As the rivers are unnavigable from late in September to late in May inclusive, the winter might be said to be 8 months in length, but still warm weather commences comparatively early. On the 10th April I found the willows budding ; on the 28th the first goose from the south arrived; on the 12th May mosquitoes made their appearance, and the next day swallows were flitting round tlie Fort. The break up of the great river was an interesting sight, the smaller streams and tributaries opening first, and running out on the surface of the ice. It was on the 19th May that the Youkon made its first great move, and for several days after- wards a constant stream of broken ice travelled past our station at about 6 miles an hour — now surging into mountains as it met with some obstruction, now grinding and crashing on its way, and carrying all before it. Whole trees and banks were swept away remorselessly before its victorious march, and the river rose 14 feet above its winter level. On the 26th May we started up river, the liussian trader and employes bearing us company as far as Nuclukayette. My only companion was Mr. Dall, a collector for the Smithsonian Institute. Our crew was Indian, our craft a " baidarre " or or Russian America. 229 skin boat. The river was still full of drift wood and ice, and we found navigation somewhat difficult. One man always, at this time, stood in the bows of our canoe, with a pole shod with iron, to push away the floating logs cr angular pieces of ice, lest a collision should ensue, and we with our frail bark come to grief. "We had frequently to cross and recross the stream to get into quieter water, and at such times exerted ourselves specially, so that we might not lose by the operation. As it was we usually drifted down half-a-mile or so. The current certainly averaged 6 knots an hour at this time, and at angles of the river, and partial rapids, a much greater speed. How shall I in few words describe this immense stream ? one that our men were wont to compare with the Mississippi ! At Nulato, 600 miles above its mouth, it is from bank to bank one mile and a quarter. In other places it opens out into lagoons, 4 to 5 miles in width, studded with innumerable islands. Our explorers have travelled down it 1800 miles. Its tributaries would be large rivers in Europe. The Co-Youkuk, Meloze- cargut, Newicargut, Tanana, and Porcupine Rivers, with many others, are all considerable streams, and I can understand the proud boast — uttered by a native of its banks and translated for our benefit — " We are not savages, we are Youkon Indians ! " On the 27th May we passed the Indian village and river of Co-Youkuk. Here a large mountain terminates on the river in a steep sandstone bluff, perpendicular strata taking the place of the more usual horizontal formation. The islands of the river were all more or less submerged, and we floated over some of the lesser tree-tops. We were accompanied by a fleet of birch- bark canoes, their owners all bound for the annual trading meetings at Newicargut and Nuclukayette. These canoes are well constructed on a light frame of birch, and vary in length from 8 to 14 feet ; some being intended for but one, and others for two or more persons. They commonly use a single paddle. The seams of the canoe are sewn with the finer roots of spruce fir, and are rendered tolerably water-tight by rubbing in the gum of the same tree. When they are found to leak the Indian goes ashore, lights a small fire, turns his canoe over, and works in the gum in a heated state. Every canoe carries a wooden vessel, or more rarely iron pot, containing smouldering sticks and embers. This is done for a double reason, to enable them to start a fire readily, and at the same time with the smoke to keep oft' the mosquitoes, the pest of early summer. From " Sachertelontin," an Indian fishing village about 100 miles above Nulato, I kept a constant running survey (of bearings and distances only). Our only authority — the Map of Zagoskin — terminates near this point, and I have therefore 230 Whymper'* Journey in Alaska^ attempted to lay down the continuation of the river to its junction with the Porcupine, on a sketch-map. With many windings the general direction is n.e. magnetic, and so little does it really vary from this that my notes contain little else but points ranging from N. to e. On the 2nd of June we passed the Melozecargut River (north bank), and later in the day the Suquonyilla Mountains — snow lying in patches on them ; but they are of inconsiderable alti- tude. The night of the 3rd and 4th June, on the south-east side of the river, we found an opening leading to a kind of fresh-water bay, into which the Newicargut Eiver empties. At its mouth we met about 150 Indians, nearly all wearing the double-tailed coat, much-ornamented fire-bags, and knife-belts. The Russians and ourselves saluted the village with a miscellaneous discharge from revolvers, carbines, and shot-guns, as is the delight of the Indians hereabouts, and they returned it with great zeal. Whilst the Russians traded for furs we laid in a whole canoe load of dried meat and pemmican. In the evening of the 4th " Lar- rione," a Co-Youkon, " ma