TOOKOOLITO, O. V. UALL, AND EUIEBl'IKa. ^ ^^S^iARCH^^ HimPER 8t Bbothers. Hew York. .-M ♦ ' ,■ / i'J'^i' ■■'■ -■ '■ ■ '■■. " / AKCTIC RESEAECHES Am LIFE AMONG THE ESQITIMAUX: ^ BEINO THK NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION IN SEARCH OF SIR JOHN • FRANKLIN, IN THE YEARS 1860, 1861, AND 1862. BT CHARLES FRANCIS HALL. fVCtl) iWaps anTi ®ne Si^unDteti SUustvaKons. NEW YORK: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FHANKLtN BQUAKE. 18 66. 1 "-/ rUS^^^ Entered, accordinp to Act of Congress, in tlio 3-oar ono tlionsand eight hundred nnJ sist^'-four, by Haui'kk & Bkothkhs, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of tlic Southern District of New York. PREFACE Before this book passes from the writer's hands into those of the reader, the author will be once more among the ice of the arc- tic regions. Though the last page of manuscript was written on the morning of my embarkation, the book itself has been no hasty work. I returned nearly two years ago from the expedi- tion which I have endeavored to describe. Almost every hour since then, which could be spared from the arrangements for my second expedition, has been devoted to the preparation of this volume from my voluminous journal and notes taken on the spot. Up Before dismissing the book, however, from my hands, I wish to say a few words by way of explanation of certain matters con- nected with my explorations. The reader will perhaps wonder why so much importance was given to the discovery of the Fro- bishcr relics. I answer, partly because of the interest which at- tached itself to the remains of men so long ago left in that waste land ; but partly, too, because the discovery of these remains, and the tracing of their history among the Esquimaux, confirmed, in a remarkable manner, my belief that these people retain among them, with great positiveness,the memory of important and strange incidents ; and as their traditions of Frobisher, when I was able to get at them, were so clear, I am persuaded that among them may be sought, by one competent, with every chance of complete suc- cess, the sad history of Sir John Franklin's men. To make myself competent for this more interesting and im- portant research, I patiently acquired the language and familiar- ized myself with the habits of the Esquimaux. I return now to iv PREFACE. their country able to speak with them, to live among them, to support my life in the same manner that they do theirs ; to mi- grate with them from place to plrfce, and to traverse and patiently explore all the region in which it is reasonable to suppose Frank- lin's crew traveled and perished. I shall be accompanied by the two intelligent Esquimaux, Ebicrbing and Tookoolito, who, \:\y- ing accompanied me on my return from my first expedition, and after remaining with mo for two years, now go back with me on this second voyage. I enter upon this undertaking with lively hopes of success. I shall not, like previous explorers, set my foot on shore for a few days or weeks, or, like others, journey among men whose language is to me unintelligible. I shall live for two or three years among the Esquimaux, and gain their confidence ; and I have the ad- vantage of understanding the language, and of making all my wishes known to them. I will not close without offering my thanks to my Publishers for their patience and courtesy ; to the Artists for the beautiful and accurate drawings made by them, under my own eye, from my rough sketches ; and to the Engravers and Printers for their constant forbearance in the trouble I gave them, unaccustomed as I "was to literary labors, yet anxious to obtain the utmost ex- actness in my narrative. ' c, F. n. June 30, 18C4, on board bark Monticello,\ bound for the Arctic Regions. ) CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Departure. — "Rescue" Schooner. — Names of Crew. — Outfit.— Soa-sickncss. — First Sight of Wliales. — Williiiin Hterry. — Banks of Newfoundland. — Storm at Sea. — "Sulphur Bottoms." — Tlio first Iccber^.-^Visit to one. — Tiio Danish Brig Mari- ano. — I'ast Experiences of Scurvy. — Dcatli and Burial of Kudlago. — Fourth of July at Sea. — Halibut and Codfish. — First Meeting with Esquimaux. — Native Pi- lots. — Ephraim's Pants. — Midnigiit Sun, — Arrival at Holsteinbort; Pago 81 , CHAPTEll II. Land and Visit the Governor. — Brief History of Greenland. — The Ilolstcinborg Dis- trict. — Esquimaux and European Population. — Protection and Care cf the Na- tives by the Danisih Crown. — Plagues of Greenland. — Musquitoes. — Trade and Barter. — A Yankee outwitted by an Esquimaux. — Dinner at the Governor's. — M'Clintock's Work. — The Priest's Wife. — Visit the Government Buildings. — Ar- rival of the liescue. — Lars's Care for his Family. — Dance on Shore. — A Mountain Excursion. — Kecks crumbling to pieces. — Action of Freezing Water in Crevices. — Sundays' and Esquimaux Amusements. — Greenland Festival. — Schools and Printing.— Dr. Rink 41) CIIAITER III. « Visit of Governor Elberg to the Ship. — His Pleasure at American Progress. — Adam Beck. — Another Mountain Ascent. — The" Woman's Hood." — A grand Sccue. — Ball on board Ship. — Sun's Eclipse. — Danger to Ship and Boat in a Gale. — Cu- rious Esquimaux Feats. — Mishap to the George Henry's Windlass. — A stirring Picture. — Kind Assistance of the Governor. — Preparations for Dejiarture. — Let- ters Home. — Leave-taking.— Final Adieus. — Farewell to Ilolstcinborg 71 CHAPTER IV. Crossing Davis's Straits.— Sea-sickness again. — "Perpetual Motion."— Changing Ai)pearanco and Movements of Icebergs.— Beautiful Sunsets and Morning Skies. — Refraction. — Nature on a Spree. — Distorted Moon. — Mountains "hanf;ing on a Thread." — God's living Arches. — "Merrie Dancers" in the Sky. — Approach to Land. — Fogs. — Another Gale. — Dcsperaio Party of runaway Seamen. — Horrible Tale of Starvation and Cannibolism.— Anchor in Kowtukjua Harbor 83 CHAPTER V. Visited by the Natives. — Brief Account of some of them. — A very aged Woman. — Oo-ki-jox-y Ni-noo.— A numerous Family. — Ugarng and his thirteen Wives. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — Kudlago's Widow, Kok-er-jab-in. — " Blind George." — Excursion on Shore. — Anecdote of the Greenland Dogs. — Beautiful Scenery. — How Nature splits huge Rocks. — An Alabaster Cave. — Arctic Food. — First Taste Xi CONTENTS. of ncnr-mcnt. — AmoricnnizinK Kim-nii-loo. — A Ulind Mun threading a Nocdlo and mending Clothes. — A«toniRhmont created by a Magnet. — Ugarng and the Qtiicksilvur. — Author'ii narrow Escape from Death. — GcoloKieol Character of the KuokM. — Departure for and Arrival at Fiuld Uiiy. — A Cruise in the limcue. — Ar- rival in new Waters I'agc 'J'J CHAPTER VI. First Visit to Frobishor Bay.—" Mcta Inco/,'nlta." — Fossils. — Koo-jesse and his Family. — Old Artarkpnrii. — Tiio beautiful Kok-er-zhun. — Skinning Ducks. — Es- quimaux Food. — Native Mode of Sleeping. — Itniuit Ilead-ornamcnts. — Kctum to the Ship. — Excursion on Shore. — White Man's Grave. — Esquimaux Grove. — Chart made by Koojesse. — Innuit Skill in Geography. — Aurora Borculis. — Vis- ited by Numbers of the Natives. — Skill of the Women at Work. — Trial of the Ex- pedition Boat.— Journey on Land. — Annawa — Amient Dwellings of the Innuits. —A Mountain Pass.— Old Mother Pc-ta-tc— Puto and the White Child. — Whale captured. — An exciting Scene. — Great Feast for the Natives. — Author's first Trial at raw Whale-meat. — Custom and Education alone prevents the Enjoy- ment of raw Food. — Discovery of a Frobishor Ilelic 117 CIIAITER VII. Boat Incident. — Lifo hanging on a Shoe-string. — Conroge of Esquimaux Boys. — Author's Escape. — Dccomjioscd Hocks. — Tes-sv.iciii. — Arrival of the (korgiana. — Author's Sickness and Recovery. — Attention of the Natives. — Independent Char- acter of the Esquimaux. — Deserving the attention of Philanthropists. — A fearful Gale. — The Rescue and the Exp'idition Boat wrecked. — The Geortjiana on Shore. — The George Ilcnn/ in great Drngcr. — Gale abates. — Tlio Geonjiuna got off the Rocks undamaged. — She departs for Northumberland Inlet ... 133 CHAPTER VIII. Splendid Displays of the Aurora. — "The World on Fire." — Arrivol of Captain Parker in the True-love. — Viiit to his Ship. — Nikujar the Pilot. — Anecdotes of Parker's Arctic Experiences. — First Interview with the Innuits Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — ^Their previous Visit to England and Presentation to Royalty. — The Accomplishments of Tookoolito. — Eenoolooapik. — A Walk on Shore. — Snow- storm. — A natural Causeway. — Fluctuations of the Compass Needle. — Tookoo- lito at Work. — She tries to Educate her People. — Her Power to do Good. — Ad- vantages of a Mission Colony. — Difforcnco of Language among the Esquimaux. — Car/ Peter«en,M'Clintock 'a Interpreter. — Tookoolito rebuking Swearers 147 CHAPTER IX. Visit to Esquimaux Village. — First Specimen of domestic Lifo among the Innuits. — Seal's Blood excellent. — Blind George in Trouble. — His paternal Affection. — "Black Skin" for Food. — Female Tongues good Cleaners. — The Angeko. — Ex- traordinary Conduct of the Natives. — The Angeko's Power. — Mysteries of Innuit Worship. — Koojcsse's Trepidation. — Angeko's Cunning. — Choice of Wives. — Cu- rious Guide Poles to Travelers. — Charley's independence of Angeko.— Ship beset in the Ice. — Hoar-frost on the Rigging. — Changes of Temperature. —r Sudden Movements of the Ice. — Frozen in. — A Bear Hunt — Author's first Encounter with a Bear. — Death of Bruin. — Visit the Tuple of Ebierbing. — Scarcity of Innuit Food and Fuel. — The Esquimaux Lamp. — Patience and Perseverance of an In- nuit Hunter. — An Igloo 164 CONTENTS. Vii CHAPTER X. Remarkablo Echo. — Visit of " Sampson."— Innuit Mode of WnshitiR tho Foco. — "Job's Comfortors." — "Bridge of Sighs." — Motliors nursing their Children. — Se»'vicoal)lo Hoods. — Tails of Irinuit Dresses. — Cold in Winter cnduruhlc.— Ex- traordinary mild Weather. — Igloos in Uuins. — Kolp used for Food. — Christmas and New Year's Day.— Sick Nukcrtou. — Inattention to tho Inllrm and Dying. — Cruel Abandonment — Innuit Superstitions. — Autiior's lonely Watch. — Death of Nukcitou. — Tho female Angeko. — Kooperarchu's Death. — Kcilections. — Innuit Idea of a Future State Page 177 CHAPTER XI. A January Sledge Excursion to Cornelius Grinnell Bay — Rough Traveling overland. — Iligii Clift's. — Descent of tho Sledgo on to tho fro;;en Sea. — Camp on tho Ice. — First Night in an Igloo. — Proceed on the Jonrnoy. — Dangerous Traveling. — Second Night on tho Ico. — Detention. — Cold. — An icy Beard. — Hair-cutting. — A Storm. — Disruption of tho Ico. — Fearful Peril. — Cessation of the Gale. — Con- tinue tho Journey. — Ice on tho Move in every Direction. — Deep Snow. — Treach- erous Footing.— Lai. orious Work — Arrive at Rogers's Island. — Great Thirst. — In- nuit Welcome. — A Cup of Water. — Hospitality. — Light, Warmth, and Food. — Night's Rest. — Disappearance of the Ice. — Remarkable Preservation. — Frostbites. — A serviceable pocket Mirror. — Bad Weather. — Whaleskin eaten as Food. — Attempted Return to tho Siiip. — Author's weak State. — Innuit Seal-hunting.— Starving Condition of tho Party 194 CHAI'TER XIL Writing under Difficulties. — No Firo or Lam]). — Only two Inches of Black Skin for Food. — Ravenous Hunger of the Dogs. — Relief obtained. — Ebierbing's Return. — A Seal capturod. — Supplies from tho Ship. — Grand Feast of raw Meat. — Hunger iiectis no Sauce. — Great Consumption of Food at a time. — Old Ookijoxy Ninoo's Dream. — An Iimuit Mark of a Seal-hole. — Tobacco-juico useful. — Watching for tho Seal. — Innuit Endurance of Cold. — Eating frozen Seal's Entrails. — Mode of cooking and partaking of Innuit Food. — Severe Cold. — Tho Angeko again. — Dumimj tho Fingers with cold Brass. — First Reindeer scon. — More Innuit Arri- vals. — Improvidence of the Natives. — Generous Disposition. — Live to-day and Want to-morrow. — Author Visits Kowtukjua — Clark's Harbor — and Ookoolear — Allen's Island. — Return to the Igloo Village. — Departure for the Sliip. — Too- koolito's Sadness. — Quick Journey. — Plaintive Look of a Seal. — Arrive at the George Henry 20G CHAPTER XIII. Irksome Change from a Snow House to the Ship's Cabin. — Native Village on the Ice. — Scurvy on Board. — Best Cure for it. — "Tuktool Tuktoo!" — A Reindeer Hunt. — Dogs in Chase. — Remarkable Sagacity and Courage of Barbekark. — Tho Deer killed by him. — Great Struggle between them. — A Venison Feast for the Ship's Crew. — Death of Blind George's \WSi. — Some of tho sick Crew sent to live with the Natives. — Tho Innuir. King-wat-che-nng. — His Kindness to White Men. — Koojcsse and Charley. — A sick Man's Obstinacy. — One of tho Sailors missing. — Search for him. — Severely cold Weather. — Most of the Party unable to k^cp up tho Search. — The Author and one Sailor persevere. — Tho missing Man's Tracks; his erratic Movements ; ho gets confused and goes Seaward ; has a Rest in tho viii CONTENTS. Snow ; moves on again, and proceeds Miles from the Ship ; his Scramble round an Iceberg. — Autlior and his Companion exhausted. — Temptation to Ho down and Sleep. — Sledge arrives from the Ship. — Search continued. — Tracks lead to the Shore. — Signs of a fearful Struggle. — Discovery of the Body, frozen stift". — Ground too hard to dig a Grave. — Cover the Corpse with Ice and Snow. — RKI) MNOO TOWINt; Ills CAHOASS 880 M. DI.SCOVl'.KY or KIIOIIISIIKK HICLIOS AUUUST 11,1801 808 55. sr/lll'S HOOT MIM.INO ' 860 50. INNllT MONI Mi:vr AT TOONOWINE 872 57. INNI IT HI MMKIJ VILLACH: 87T 5S. VIKW AT CJAl'K .STKVKNS AND WAKO'S INLKT 870 50. ti;niki)i:i{i.ii;n, wii'io or k()o,)i;s.sk 888 00. ici:ni;i!(}.s on tiik hocks— (;ui:at fai.i. of tidk 88T 01. KSTl'AltY OK SYLVIA (iUINNKLI, KIVKK, FUOUISUliU B.VY' 889 Ol I.ANItlNCi FOIt NKHirs KXC'AMI'.MKNT 800 03. KAI.-'IXa Tin; AMKIIKJAN KI.A0 400 64. yll.LIMAN'S FOSSIL MOUNT 410 05, A i)i;si-i:i!ATK rri.i 414 00. I'UOltlsllKU'S OOLl) MINK OH TUKNDII 427 07. IIOAI" IN A 8TOKM 481 08. ONIO OF FKOlll.-'UI'U'S GOU) I'UOOFS 487 09. Kl!OmSlll.l£ IJKLIC'S IN RTOCKINO 438 70. OOMIliX, OK WOMAN'S BOAT 460 71. WOODKN MODKI.S OF FUoHISIIKII'S ANVIL 462 72. TALLOW MODKL OF FUOIlISIIKirs ANVIL 488 78. FIIXD B.VY AND DAVIS'S STKAIT 465 74. AlIiORA SKF.N AT 1 II'.LI) BAY, NOVLMIilHt 2, I8C1 404 75. AIRORA AND MI;TIX)R OF OCTOHKR 13,1^00 406 70. I'LAYIN(t THE KF.KLOUN 400 77. Tin; IILICIIT OF lIOSriTALlTV 474 78. CIVILIZATION 'SLF.DGi; 481 79. SLKKINO Tin; LO.-e and when they can not. This I know by experience. * * * * "Little did I think, on returning to the United States with my companions and beloved commander, that I would ever again go to the north ; but believing, on my soul, from a practical life in the arctic ''egions, that you are right in entertaining the opinion that sovie of >SV?' JoJtn Franklin^ s men are yet to he found living toilh the Esquimaux, and that they should he rescued and restored to their country and friends, I hereby cheerfully offer my services, and vol- unteer as a member of the expedition you propose to organize. " For direct evidence of me, and my devotedness to this cause, I would refer you to the written works of him whose memory and name I almost worship — Dr. Kane." This confirmation of my views was exceedingly gratifying, but I had one sent to me which still more stamped upon my mind the truth of what I had surmised in respect to the Franklin Expedi- tion. It was from Henry Grinnell, Esq., of New York, and will be introduced farther on. After laying my plans before friends at Cincinnati, I at once started for the Eastern States, with a view of consulting men of experience in the arctic whale fishery, and also calling upon oth- er persons to whom I had letters of introduction. I stopped one day at Philadelphia, and visited Dr. Hayes, Mr. Kobert Kane, Mr. George Childs, and a few more ; then proceed- ed on to New York, where I was hospitably welcomed by Mr. Grinnell, who entered warmly into my views. On the 14th of February I went to New London, where I had an opportunity of meeting many experienced whaling captains, among whom was Captain S. A. Brown, who was very warm and kind in reference to my plans. Captain Christopher Chappel, who had passed a winter in Northumberland Inlet, likewise gave me great hope and encouragement. So did Mr. Thomas W. Perkins, who allowed me access to the logs of various voyages made in the arctic regions by vessels belonging to the late firm of Perkins and INTRODUCTION. Xxiii Smith. But to Messrs. Williams and Haven, upon whom I called when at New London, I am especially indebted. In every possi- ble way they tried to help me as to my plans ; and they most lib- erally tendered me the well-known schooner " Kescue" (formerly of the first Grinnell Expedition) for $2000. I am also under great obligation to Mr. E. II. Chapell, of the same place, who then displayed — and has so ever since — an earn- estness in every thing connected with arctic research that com- mands my respect and esteem. Other persons that I called upon in New London were Captai' ^ Sisson, Tyson, Quayle, and S. 0. Budington, with whom I after- ward embarked on my voyage. Captain Budington had brought to this country an intelligent Esquimaux, named Kud-la-go, whom I afterward fortunately secured to accompany me as an inter- preter. At Groton I called upon an individual named W. E. Sterry. He had been four voyages to the arctic regions, and spent three winters in Northumberland Inlet. I asked him, How long, at any one time, he had remained with the Esquimaux? Ills reply was, Two months in the spring of 1855, thirty miles from the ves- sel, .and with three families, consisting of about twenty individu- als, living in three or four huts. Sterry was able to give me a great deal of useful information, wliich all tended the more to confirm my views upon the subject of arctic exploration. From New London I returned to New York, where the great kindness of Mr. Grinnell, and the friendly attention of several oth- er well-known names, much encouraged me. Promises of assist- ance were made, and donations tendered toward my expedition. Here, by invitation, on March 8th, 1860, 1 attended an informal meeting of the American Geographical and Statistical Society, to explain my views and intentions. At the meeting I gave a brief statement of my ideas on the subject of Franklin's Expedition, and argued upon the great probability of some survivors yet be- ing found. Soon after this, Messrs. Henry Grinnell, Miles Green- wood, and E. M. Bishop kindly became treasurers of the fund raising for my voyage, and it was now determined to adopt the following plan, which, I may here state, was the one I acted upon, so far as I could, throughout my whole undertaking. I give that plan as promulgated by me at the time. I said, " My object is to acquire personal knowledge of the language and life xxiv INTRODUCTION. of the Esquimaux, with a view thereafter to visit the Lands of King William, Boothia, and Victoria ; then endeavor, by person- al investigation, to determine more satisfactorily the fate of the 105 companions of Sir John Franklin now known to have been living on the 25th day of April, 184:8. " I take with me an Esquimaux interpreter, and during my so- journ in the arctic regions shall employ a crew of natives for the boat accompanying me. With these natives I purpose starting from Northumberland Inkt, and proceed up an arm of it that runs westward toward a lake not far from its extremity. This lake will be reached by crossing a small j)ortage. I then shall traverse the lake to its western outlet, which, by Esquimaux report, is a navigable river emptying into Fox Channel. On arriving at " Fox's Farthest" (lat. 66° 50' N., long. 77° 05' W.), I shall, if prac- ticable, turn to the northward, proceeding on the east side of said channel to the Straits of "Fury and Uecla," thus uniting the dis- coveries of Fox in 1631 and Parry in 1821-3. " On completing this work I shall cross the strait to Igloolik (lat. 69° 20' N., long. 81° 53' W.), and try to establish friendly re- lations with the community of Esquimaux known to congregate at that point. I will there and then decide, by the circumstances, whether to winter at Igloolik, return to Northumberland Inlet, or proceed southward on the east coast of Melville Peninsula to Win- ter Island, or to push my way directly westward across the Gulf of Boothia to Victoria Ilarbor. "During the winter and early spring, sledge-journeys will be undertaken with a view of acquiring a thorough knowledge of the country. " When at Northumberland Inlet and other places, I shall care- fully examine into the facilities for traveling, so as to decide upon the most practicable course to pursue in my efforts to satisfactorily and truthfully determine the history of the Franklin Expedition. "To extend this undertaking to a favorable conclusion will re- quire the assistance of my fellow-countrymen. " This voyage is one I am about to make for the cause of hu- manity and science — for geographical discovery, and with the sole view of accomplishing good to mankind.'''' Such was the statement I made of my views and intentions. Happily, I had strong confirmation of my opinions concerning the Franklin Expedition from Mr. Henry Grinnell, who gave me the following letter : INTRODUCTION. XXV "New York, March 14, 18G0. "Mr. C.F.Hall: " Dear Sir, — Probably no one in this country is more desirous of arriving at the truth relative to the fate of Sir John Franklin and his party than myself. The fate of Franklin and some of his officers and men is known by the record found on King William's Land by Captain (now Sir F. L.) M'Clintock ; but the fate of 105 members of Franklin's Expedition, living on the 25th day of April, 18-18, and many other matters important to the history of that expedition, has yet to be determined. " I believe some of the 105 may yet be found habitants among the Esquimaux of Boothia, Victoria, or Prince Albert Lands. 1 farther believe that the graves of Franklin and some of his offi- cers and men, known to be dead, as well as the records of the ex- pedition and many important relics, will be found on King Wil- liam's Land, if search be made ther3 in the months of July, Au- gust, and September. "The course you propose to pursue is entirely a new and im- portant one, and I see not why, with the exercise of your best judgment, you may not ultimately accomplish all that could be desired in satisfactorily determining many of the unsettled ques- tions indicated above, as well aa increasing our geographical knowledge of that portion of the arctic regions over which you propose to pass. " You have my earnest wishes for the accomplishment of the noble object you have in view, and I will cheerfully contributi' toward the requisite funds to carry it out. " With great regard, I am your friend, Henry Grinnell." Shortly afterward, Messrs. Williams and Haven, of New Lon- don, sent me the following most kind and generous proposal : " As a testimony of our personal regard, and the interest we feel in the proposed expedition, we will convey it and its required outfit, boats, sledges, provisions, instruments, etc., free of charrje, in the barque Qeorge Henry, to Northumberland Inlet, and, when- ever desired, we will give the same free passage home in any of our ships." This generous offisr relieved my mind of a great difficulty, and most gratefully I accepted their kind proposition. Having thus far succeeded in opening the way, I now gave di- rections for a suitable boat to be built. xxvi INTRODUCTION. Mr. G. W. Rogers, of New London, who had built the boats for the expeditions under De Haven, Kane, and Hartstene, was com- missioned to build mine. Its dimensions were as follows : length, 28 feet; beam, 7 feet; depth, 29^ inches; and thickness of her planking, which was of cedar, ^tlis of an inch, In form she was similar to a whale-boat, drawing only eight inches of water when loaded with stores and a crew of six persons. She had one mast,* on which a jib and mainsail could be carried ; a heavy awning to shelter the crew at night or when at rest; and the lockers for stores at each end were sufficiently large that a man could, if need be, comfortably sleep in either of them. Five oars, and all other essentials, formed a portion of her equipment. The sledge I took was fiiade under my own eye in Cincinnati, as also a stock of pemmican. *I now returned to the West for the purpose of settling my af- fairs and preparing for departure. The ])ress gave friendly notice of my intentions; and a circu- lar was issued by Mayor Bishop and Miles Greenwood, inviting my fellow-citizens to meet me at the Burnet House. This meet- ing took place on the 26th of April, and I was much gratified with its auspicious character. Soon after this (on May 10th) I bade adieu to my home and friends — to all of human ties that 1 held dearest to my heart, and departed for New York. Here I devoted the remaining time in various matters connected with my departure, constantly receiv- ing advice and assistance from Mr. Grinnell. Finally, on Sat- urday evening. May 26th, I left for New London to join the George Henry. The funds for my expedition were, however, so low, that I found my.self sadly deficient in many things that were ahiiost absolutely necessary. But, at the last moment, when this was known to Mr. Grinnell, he unhesitatingly supplied the de- ficiency. On arriving at New London, I received many kind invitations from numerous friends I encoifntered there. Among others, I can not forbear alluding to a dinner given the day before my final departure by Mr. Haven (of the house of Williams & Haven), who, with his amiable family, extended every hospitality toward me. On the occasion to which I refer, the viands were plentiful and good; but Mrs. Haven uttered some graceful remark, wish- ing there had been longer time to have made a more abundant and richer display to welcome me ; whereupon one of her young- INTRODUCTION. XXVii est sons, a. little lad, very intelligently said, "He guessed that where 1 was going to I might see the day when I should be glad to get as good!" Since then, how often and often have I called to mind that entertainment and young Master Haven's words, especially when obliged to eat scraps of raw walrus hide, whale- skin, the contents of walrus and reindeer paunches, etc., and some- times not able to get even that much to try and satisfy my crav- ing hunger! Frequently have I sat down and thought of my dinner at Mr. Haven's, vainly wishing that I could get, if it were, only the very poorest fragments of that Monday's feast. On the 29th of May, accompanied by Mr. Grinnell and several citizens of New London, among whom was Mayor Harris, I stepped from the wharf, amid a crowd of friendly spectators, and entered the boat that was to convey me on board. A few strokes of the oars, however, had only been made, when we re- turned at the voice of Mr. Haven hailing us. It was to give me a present, in the shape of a little book called " The Daily Food," which, though small in size, was great in its real value, and which proved my solace and good companion in many a solitary and weary hour. Once more bidding adieu to all on shore, the boat swiftly car- ried mo to the ship, where preparation was being made for depart- ure. In a few moments more the steam-tug was alongside, and we were towed out to sea. Then came the final moment of part- ing. The last farewell had to be uttered — the one word that was to sever me for many months, perhaps years, froni my country, ray home, my friends ! Never shall I forget the emotions I ex- perienced when the noble Grinnell came to take my hand and say, " Good-by ! God bless you !" Hardly could I respond to his kind and earnest expressions toward me and on my behalf. With warm but trembling utterance, this truly great and good man spoke of the brave old navigators, and those of our own times, who had often dared the perils of unknown seas, relying on their own stout hearts, it is true, but depending more on the aid and support of a Supreme Pow^ek. He bade me ever do the same ; and, commending me to that mighty Being, he once more, with moistened eye, said " Farewell !" and hastily embarked on the tug- that was to convey the visitors on shore. The last link binding me to my own dear native land was now severed. The steamer cast off as we were passing Montauk Point, and then there arose one deafening shout from those on board, xxvm INTRODUCTION. when three loud cheers were given for the ntame of Henry Grin- nell ; and, as the echoes floated on the air, our good ship, now un- der sail, bore me rapidly away. Thus I left my country to try and accomplish that object upon which I had set my heart, name- ly, the solving of the yet unsettled pystery connected with the LOST Franklin Expedition. I may ns well say here that, throughout my narrative, all references to the Ap- pendix will be noted by sninll numerals, indicating the explanatory notes. ^\^- -^ ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. CHAPTER I. Departure. — " Rescue" Schooner. — Names of Crew. — Outfit. — Sea-sickness. — First Sight of Wimles. — William Stcrry. — Banks of Newfoundland. — Storm at Sen. — "Sulphur Bottoms." — The first Iccbert;. — Visit to one. — The Danish Brig Mari- ane. — Past Ex]x;rience8 of Scurvy. — Death and Burial of Kudlago. — Fourth of July at Sea. — Halibut and Codfish. — Firet Meeting with Esquimaux. — Native Pi- lots. — Ephraim's Pants. — Midnight Sun. — Arrival at Ilolstcinborg. It was on Tuesday, May 29th, 1860, that I departed from New London, Conn., on my voyage in the barque Oeorge Henry. We were accompanied by a tender, the Amaret schooner, formerly the far-famed ''■Rescue''' of arctic celebrity — a name that I intend to retain in speaking of her throughout my narrative. The officers and crews of these two vessels numbered in all twenty-nine persons; my expedition consisted of Kudlago and myself, thus making a total of thirty-one souls leaving New Lon- don. As I shall have frequent occasion to mention some of the ship's company by name, I here give a list of them and their rating on board. TAst of Officers and Crew. S. O. Budington Captain. Frank Rogers 1st Officer. A.J.Gardiner. 2d '■ Keubon Lamb 3d " Robert Smith 4th " C. Keeney Boat-steercr. E.W.Morgan A.Bailey W.F.Roberts ;... W. R. Sterry... Blacksmith and Cooper J. R. Hudson Steward. Geo. Beckwith Seaman. R. A. Comstock " H.Smith " A.S.Bradley " J. B. Neil Seaman. J.Buckley " S. Willson " W.B.Russell " J. Gray " W.Stokes " W^Conley " W. Elliml " M. Silva " W.Johnson " J. Bruce " J. Antonio " F. Silva " J.Brown " 80 ARCTIC KESEAUCII EXl'EDITION. My outfit lor this voyage,* and for the whole of my exi)eili- tioii, consisted of Tho boat, already dcHcrilu'd ; 1 Hicdgo ; } ton of poinmican ; 200 IIm. Oordon'H meat biscuit ; 20 lbs, " Ciiiciniiati crui'kliiigs" — ]>ork- scraps ; 1 lb. preserved qiiinco ; ! lb. prcMcrved pcacbes ; 250 lbs. |)o\vder ; a (luan'ity of ball, sliot, and percusBJon caps; Iridc; (» double-barreled guns, covers, and extra fltiingH ; one Colt's revolver complete; glass beads, a quantity of needles, etc., for presents to tho natives; 2 dozen pocket knives and chopjicrs ; some tin-wore, 1 axe, 2 picks, files, etc. ; n good supply of tobacco and ])ipes ; wearing ap|)arcl for self, and rod shirts for pres- ents ; a supply of stationery and journal books, etc. ; 1 common watch; 1 opera- glass; 1 spy-glass; I common sextant and I pocket sextant; 1 artificial horizon, with extra glass and mercury; 1 azimuth compass; 1 common compass;' 2 pocket compasses; .') ordinary thermometers and two self-registering ones. Some naviga- tion books and several arctic works, with my Bible and a few other volumes, formed my library. Tills list, with a few sundries, constituted all the means and ma- terial 1 had to carry out the great undertaking my mind had led me to embark in. How iiir I accomplished aught commensurate with the ideas I had formed, let the sequel show ; but, even had I wholly failed, assuredly it would have been excusable under such circumstances. With regard to my.self pcnsonally, now that the excitement of preparation was over, and I had time to think more and more of my task, a reaction took place, which produced that depression of mind always to be found in similar cases. This was soon in- creased by the horrible sensation of sea-sickness which I experi- enced for several days after our departure. What my feelings were may be judged by the following extracts from an irregular diary, the only work I could at that time perform. Writing on thei fifth day out, I find myself saying, " More miserable days than these past few have been to me it would be difficult to imagine. And why? Because of sickness — sea-sickness. And what z's sea-sickness? Can any one tell un- less they have experienced it? I imagine not; nor, perhaps, can many describe it- who have come under its infliction. I know that / can not well do so. I have felt myself swung, tumbled, jammed, knocked, struck, rocked, turned, skewed, slewed, warped, pitched forward and backward, tossed up and down, down and up, this way and that way, round and round, crossways and kit-a- cornered, in every possible manner. On the ocean, fresh from civilized life, this may be called sea-sickness, but elsewhere I should • For particulars, sec Appendix, No. 2. SEA-SICKNESS. 81 term it next to a torturous death ! No more terrible experience can a man have oC life ujjon the broad waters than his lirst few days at sea when thus attaelied." Again, at/ a later date 1 find, "A miserable time I have had of it — ill nearly since we left; and now, as 1 write, my head is like a mountain of solid rock. Sea-sickness is really too bad, especial ly after eating, or trying to eat, a good dinner." An ancient philosopher, on reviewing his work at the end of each day, and finding no special gcwd acquired or accomplished, used to write down in his diary, ^'■PerdkU diem''^ — I have lost a day. Alas for me, I had to repeat that in ?n?/ journal for twelve days I It is true that several times I recorded the temperature of the air and sea, the state of the barometer, and made various other observations whenever the weather would permit, but, nev- ertheless, so powerless did I feel for mental or bodily work, that at the end of each day I felt compelled to enter down as a sad but truthful fact, "Perdidi diein^ At length I quite recovered, and on the 9th of June, for the first time since leaving port, I felt as a man should feel, once more strong and capable of any exer- tion. I soon began to cla.ssify my labors, devoting so many hours to reading, to study, to writing, exercise, reflection, and sleep. As my buoyancy of spirits arose, and I watched the good ship bound- ing on her way over the sparkling waters, every thing seemed full of life and animation. The Giver of all good was supreme upon the blue ocean as He was upon the shore. Even the "Moth- er Gary's chickens" — the little stormy petrel — sportively played about, no doubt happy in their way, as they danced up and down, slightly dipping the tips of their wings in the uneven waves, and then hieing away to absent mates, that they might be brought to greet the passing ship. About a week after our departure, the cry was raised, There she blows! there she blows I and, hurrying on deck, I for the first time saw at a distance the blowing of whales. What this "blowing" was like may be described by asking if the reader has ever seen the smoke produced by the firing of an old-fashioned flint-lock? If so, then he may understand the appearance of the blow of a whale — a flash in the pan, and all is over. I watched with eager interest this school of " fin-backs," numbering some twenty-five or thirty whales — a rare sight to see so many togeth- er. But they are net generally attacked, as they ere difficult to capture, and yield but little oil. 82 ARCTIC UKSKAIUII KXl-KDITION. A day or two after this, a cry of Porpoises! brought all hands on deck;. and hero a circunistunco occurred, which, though triv- ial in itself, well serves to illustrate the unartificial character of one of the ship's comi)any, the William Sterry previously men- tioned. It is related in my Journal as follows : "Directly the porpoises were seen, Sterry, who has a genial heart and strong arm, took his position by the martingale, or, as a Dane would call it, ' Dolphin Striker,' which is under the bow- sprit. Harpoon in hand, there stood Sterry, prepared for a whale or aught else, ready lor his blow. Now Skrrij was Sleiry — Sterry the cooper — Sterry the ship's carpenter — Sterry the ship's black- smith — Sterry the millwright — Sterry the genius — the immortal Sterry, who could cat more pork and beans, and driiik more whis- ky out of a two-quart pantry pitcher, without distinguishing its smell and taste from pure cold water, than any other gentleman hailing from his native place of Groton. There indeed was Ster- ry, seemingly hanging between the heavens and the sea, his feet dangling on a tow line, and his hands grasping the martingale back-rope. While I stood watching him, his eyes appeared to roll in lire as they pierced the blue deep, especially so when he struck his head against the 'bobstay chains' in turning to look for the contrast between the porpoises beneath him and the jibboom above. And here I may add that Sterry was a great philosopher on ' contrasts,' pros and cons ; positives and negatives were with him the only * hanimals that have souls worth saving.' Well, there stood Sterry preparing to ' pucker,' and pitcJcer he did. A strange sound, which arrested my attention, stole out of his mouth. Startled, I listened attentively, and found him actually xvhistling for the porpoises ! But no porpoise seemed to listen to his charm. Often did he poise his harpoon as his intended victim glided swift- ly through the waters beneath him, but as often did be have to drop it again. At length the porpoises retired, and Sterry had to give up his game. "When the attempt was over, I asked Captain B if Ster- ry's whistling really did any good, and the reply was, as I ex- pected, ' No, none whatever.' Sterry at the time was within hear- ing, and immediately said, ' I guess-it-did-n't-do-much-of-any-harm- any-how-captain ;' and then, turning to me, added, ' Captain Hall' (so he always called me), ' I tell you what it is, Before you have been up North a great while, you'll find you've got to whistle as many whistles as there are species of /animals, birds, and fishes, MOVEMENTS OF TWO WHALES. 88 or you cnn novor get along up there ; you cnii never cnpturo such ibiiigrt unless you do whistle.' " ' But,' said I, ' pleaKj tell me, Mr.Sterry, what do you do when you see a tvhalef 'Oh, then wc always holler,^ was his quaint reply." 1 have mentioned this anecdote a.s cliaracteristic of the man. lie was frequently the liib and soul of our party, and often 1 shall iiave occasion to allude to him. On the 12th of Juno we passed through a fleet of co('fishing .schooners on the Banks of Newfoundland. Hundreds of boats were out, with a nuui in each, rapidly appearing and disappearing to our view as the fog, which was very thick, lifted, or as we neared them. The next day preparation was made, and a close look-out kept for icebergs, the thermometer having fallen rapidly; but none were seen. Two whales, however, caused some interest in our vessel, and especially to myself. They were moving leisurely along in the same direction as the ship, and nearly under the bows. Every thirty seconds or so they came up to blow, and then sank beneath the water, leaving only a few feet above their backs. I saw them distinctly for several minutes, without cessation, thus propelling their vast bulk through the great deep. It was a most novel .sight to me to see these two whales simultaneously gliding side by side, and even with the ship. Had tliey been a pair of naiads harnessed to the car of Neptune, they could not have been more uniform in their movements. They came up together, "blowed" together, and descended together. Meantime two boats were lowered, with a chosen crew, to give chase. Swiftly they shot toward their prey ; but the whales im- mediately altered their course, the boats following after them. For an hour was the chase continued ; but, in spite of all efforts, the whales escaped, and our disappointed comrades returned. For several days after this, nothing of note occurred worth nar- rating, A delicate snowbird lighted on the rigging, and, accord- ing to nautical ideas, was the augury of good luck. Other ma- rine birds and porpoises were seen, but there was little to relieve the monotony of our life except when the winds increased to a gale. Then, indeed, I found a change that in one respect I could admire. To myself, who had never before been upon the vast ocean, it was truly magnificent to behold the mighty workings of the great deep ! On one occasion, which I well remember, the sea C 84 AUCTIO UK8EAHCII KXI'KDITION. appeared in "white enpa," the bounding billowH plftying with us all day in funtftHtic gainbols, while tijc hhip plunged feurt'uUy down into n deep abyss; then, like a thing of life, would she leap skyward, as a mad wave struek the bow in all its fury, burying it beneath the sheet of spray, which Hew far and wide in its impo- tent wrath. But the Oeorije llmry heeded it not. Like a lion shaking the dews of heaven from liis nume, so did our good ship appear, bathed in crystal drops, but still driving on and on maj(!8- tieally. Rarely did I enjoy myself more than when those storms encountered us. It seemed to mo as if no one could, to the full- est extent, appreciate the beauty, the grandeur, the greatness of God's creation but in experiencing a storm at sea. Watching it OS 1 did, lirndy wedged against the miust, with my arm encircling a cluster of ropes, 1 could keep my place, notwithstanding the ve.s.sel now and then would be on her beam-ends, or some fearful wave, overleaping i\w bulwarks, seek to take mc away. And as I stood th«rp, I could study Nature and Nature's God. As far as the eye could carry me, say for seven miles in every direction, making an area of over one hundred and fifty square miles, the ocean was dancing as if wild with joy. One moment it would seem as if a universal eftbrt was being made by the waters to kiss the clouds ; in the next, diving low, low down, as if to hide their laugh over the daring deed ; then, as if to signify their un- willingness of my being so cool a spectator, the ship would be borne high up in their snowy arms, and all at once plunged quick- ly down into the bosom of the sea, covering myself and the decks with tons of briny water. On the 19th of June we were in lat. 51° 18' N., long. 49° 12' W., and here I give a few extracts from my diary to show my ideas and feelings at the time. " This day saw several of the largest size whales, Balama Phy- salts, called ' sulphur-bottoms' by the whalers. It is indeed the king of fishes, though this term applies to the whale family in gen- eral ; but, being a very difficult kind to capture, whalers seldom ever venture in their chase. Less quiet and tranquil in its move- ments than the Mysticetus, or Greenland whale, it becomes furi- ous when wounded, and renders an approach to it dangerous. Its flight, when struck by the harpoon, is exceedingly rapid, and is so long sustained that it i;^ very difficult — generally imjjossible — to tire it out. The game is not worth the cost and risk, for the blubber and bone of the Physalis are indifferent in quality and • FIH8T ICEBKUO. 86 (lunntity. I lind a line view of tlieso inonstcrM of tlio deep, nn they cnmo within pistol-whot of the vchhcI. It wns a gnuid Hight to ine to SCO n flrtlj (irt a whiilo a fish?) 100 I'm't h)iig propelling itself quietly forward through tho water ivn though it wore but an hum- bio mountain trout. "June 20th, hit. 53° »', long. 51° 16'. A good run, with a fair breeze since yesterday. Approaching tho north axis of tho earth I Ay, nearing tho goal of my fondest wishes. Every thing relating to tho arctic zone is deeply interesting to me. 1 love the snows, the ices, icebergs, the fauna, and tho flora of the North I I love tho circling sun, the long (hiy, l/ie arctic night, when the aoid can commune wiOi Gml in mknt and reverential awe 1 I am on a mis- sion of love. I feel to bo in the performance of a duty I owe to mankind — myself —God ! Thus feeling, I am strong at heart, fall of faith, ready to do or die in the cause I have espoused. ** This evening tho sun sot about ten minutes to nine o'clock, but it was quite light at ten o'elock. " Thitrsdui/, June 21.s<. This morning, a lew minutes after eight o'clock, I wont upon deck to take my usual exercise. I noticed or felt a perceptible change in the temperature of the air. I look- ed at the thermomotor and saw that it was falling. T tried the sea- water, and found that much colder also, being only two de- grees above freezing point. I immediately concluded that we were near icebergs, and mentioned it to Captain B , also to Sterry ; but, though tho latter had been on several voyages to the arctic regions, and had spent four winters there, ho doubted my ideas about it, especially when I ventured to predict we should see them within three hours. lie said ' we should not,' and even laid a wager upon it; but at twelve o'clock the icebergs were really seen, and many of the old salts on board at once set me down as well up in arctic knowledge. '^Directly tho announcement was made I went on deck, and there, far away to the west, had my first view of an iceberg. By the aid of a good glass, presented by M'Allistor & Brothers, of Philaaelphia, the grandeur of this icy mountain of the deep was brought before me. Brief, however, was the glance I had. The motion of the vessel was such that I could not at first keep the iceberg within the field of the glass. But perhaps it was well I did not see all its splendor and magnificence at once. For years I had longed to sec an iceberg, and, even in the distant view I then had, all my conceptions of its grandeur were more than real- 36 ARCTIC RESEAUCII EXPEDITION. ized. When first seen it was perhaps ten miles off, and appeared about 130 feet high, judging from a calculation made. As, to- ward evening, we approached, it appeared a mountain of alabaster resting calmly upon the bosom of the dark blue sea. Behind it was the setting sun just dipping its nether limb in the waters, while its upper reached some thick, heavy clouds extending half around the horizon, bathing them in a flood of crimson ! Close by, and peering out from a break in the sky, were Venus and the new moon, making a scene of sublimity and beauty fit for a poet's pen or the pencil of an artist. Not before ten o'clock P.M. were we alongside this magnificent pile of ice, and then, as it were, I had an opportunity of shaking hands with the first ice- berg I had ever seen. It is said that lovers like darkness better than light, and the hour named would seem to indicate that dark- ness was upon the face of the deep when 1 and my 'idol' met. But not so ; light abounded : not that of noonday, but that of early eve, when the sun had withdrawn his glowing face. Then it was we met. Iceberg was silent; I too was silent. I stood in the presence of God's work ! Its fashioning was that of the Great Architect ! He who hath builded such monuments, and cast them forth upon the waters of the sea, is God, and there can be none other!" After this, numerous icebergs were seen, one of which we pass- ed within a stone's throw. At a distance it had appeared. of a pyramidal form, but on coming close its outline whollv changed. This I find to be a characteristic of most all views — of none more strikingly so than that of an iceberg. " Distance lends enchant- ment to the view," so goes the old saw, and, to a certain extent, this is true. But, on another occasion, I had a more minute inspection of one of these icy monsters of the deep. A large solitary berg at one time was not far from us, and, as the weather permitted, a boat was sent in charge of the mate that I might have the opportunity of examining it. On arriving near, it was found of irregular form at tlie base, with several " tongues" or spreading pieces below the water. With some difiiculty I got on to it at a sloping part, and began to mount toward the summit. Several pinnacles, ravines, gorges, and deep cavities were displayed as I ascended ; but decay was already making rapid progress, and evidently not long would elapse before the whole mass must fall to pieces. I succeeded. ASCENT OF AN ICEBERG. 87 however, in reaching the top without danger, using a boat-hook as a sort of alpenstock to aid me. ASOKNT OF AN IGEUERO. Here resting a while, and, drinking in the ocean scene around, with our ship on the blue waters awaiting us, I then descended. On the way down I unfortunately trod on the rusty part of the boat-hook, and, having my boots off for surer footing, received a rather bad wound, which confined ne to a couch for some days. Our progress toward Greenland was so tantalizingly slow, ow- ing to calms and head winds, that a fourth Sunday passed over us when still at a considerable distance from Ilolsteinborg, Green- land, the port of rendezvous of the Oeorge Henry and Rescue. Of these Sundays at sea, it gives me pleasure to speak in favor- able terms as to their observance on board. The crew exhibited most excellent demeanor; and as the Oeorcje Henry had a small but carefully-selected library in the cabin, furnished by the house of Williams & Haven (owners of the vessel), good books were occa- sionally distributed by the captain among officers and men, much to their satisfaction, and, no doubt, advantage. ' Again referring to my Journal : "June 26th, at midnight, I witnessed a scene never to be for- gotten. I found the whole north illuminated — not by the aurora borealis — but by reflection of the sun's rays. The northern sky presented the appearance of a sunset perhaps twenty minutes over. I could hardly believe my eyes and my position as to 38 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. the points of the compass for some time. It did not seem that the morning sun could thus early be approaching in the east, nor did it seem that the brightening before me was eithei- east or west. But I soon found the cause that so attracted my attention was the northern sun ! I was indeed delighted ; for, though familiar with the theory of our planetary system, yet I had little thought of the beauty and variety of sun scenes presented to the view of man between the latitudes of Cincinnati and that of 58^°, where we then were, "Early in the morning the captain came to my berth and call- ed me, saying that a sail was in sight, and that he was holding up for her. I was on deck in an instant with spy-glass in hand. All the men were on the alert, and every eye strained to discover what vessel it was. Our own colors were soon run up, and they were answered by the unknown showing the Danish flag. This immediately enlightened us, and we at once knew that the stran- ger was T)ne of the government vessels of Denmark annually vis- iting Greenland. We laid-to for her, and, when she came near, ascertained her name to be the Mariane, from Copenhagen, bound to Disco. Our captain then sang out, ' What's your longitude ?' Whereupon the lusty old Dane hung over the brig's side a pon- derous ebony board, ujion which was chalked in white '49° 20'.' Thus holding '.t a moment, we saw him turn his head broadside to us, and encircle his massive ear by his trumpet-shaped hand, as if to say, 'Now let us have yours.' In stentorian voice, the answer was '53° 30'.' If a forty-pounder had been shot from th^ George Henry, the old Scandinavian commander could not have jumped higher than on this announcement. Then giving our ship to the glorious breeze that was dancing to do us service, away -she bounded on her course. As long as we could see the Man'ane of Copenhagen — a vessel bearing the royal V. R,, wreathed by laurel branches, and crested by the imperial crown — she was still following in our wake." It may be as well here to mention that this Mariave was the identical vessel in 'which Dr. Kane and his party, after their mem- orable escape on the second Grinnell Expedition, took passage from Upernavik, intending to proceed home in her via England. But, on touching at Goodhavn, Captain Ilartstene, in the Relief Squadron, arrived in time to receive them, and thus prevented a longer voyage in the Danish brig, ^''Friday, June 29th. During the night a smart breeze sprung up KUD-LA-GO. 89 from the N.N. W., which now continues, doing us much service in putting us to the north, Tliere is rain, and it is cbilly ; but what of this to a determined soul? Oh, to be strong from the circum- stances ; to be excited by tue powers of the mind ; to be inspired, as it were, by the divine Spirit, that 1 may continue to the end of life in my studies of Nature and her laws ! May I be strong in the day of battle ; may I not forget that I am a child of Deity — a humble instrument created for work ! '■''Saturday, June SOlh. In a conversation with Captain B and his first officer, Mr. Rogers, this morning, I learned their views of the scurvy. They both understand the cause, the nature of it, and its cure. The former said he bad gained his knowledge from dearly acquired experience. This is truly a fact, for in 1855, while in command of the Gcorgiana, on a whaling voyage, he lost thirteen of his men by scurvy. But, said he, 'I am not afraid of losing any more men by scurvy while I have command over them. Whenever there are appearances of it aboard, I will have every pork and beef barrel — salt provision of every kind — headed up at once, and every man shall live upon bread and fresh provision, such as wliale, walrus, seal, deer, bear, ptarmigan, duck, etc., etc,' " Mr. Rogers stated that in 1856 he went on a whaling voyage to the South Sea, and that during the year scurvy broke out among the crew. Nine were seriously affected, and one died of it, all from eating salt provisions. Said he, " Those who had it seemed determined to die, for, against all reasoning and advice, they would have salt pork in preference to fresh game, such as ducks, eggs, etc., which they had in abundance." It may be here stated as a fact that the person who has the scurvy desires just that kind of food which he sliould not have, and, as a general rule, the same person affected will go almost any length to obtain it, notwithstanding he is well aware that death must follow in this contumacious course. I now approach a subject that, oven at this present time, in dwelling upon it, affects me greatly. I allude to the death of Kudlago, which occurred on Sunday morning, the 1st of July. Hitherto I have said but little concerning him, owing to an inten- tion of confining my remarks to what I should have to narrate here. I have mentioned in the Introduction that he had been brought to the United States in the previous fall, and when I first saw him 40 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. he appeared to be, what I always found him, a remarkably mod- est and unassuming man. From what I was then informed, he was quick to learn, and always endeavored to do as other people did. He never expressed surprise at any thing. lie looked upon the works of civilization with interest, but never with wonder. The first time he saw a locomotive no words escaped his lips, nor did he exhibit any signs but what were consistent with the idea of his having seen the same a thousand times before. One day, while riding in the cars toward New York, a boy passed through distributing circulars, giving one to Kudlago. He took it, look- ing attentively to see what others might do, and then, as they r''.id, so, to all appearance, did he ! Others held the circulars up before them and read. Kudlago held his up before his eyes and a})- pearcd to read. Though he could not read a word, yet he looked learned. Solomon may have been wiser, but surely not sharper than Kudlago. KLll-I.A(iU. On securing his services as my interpreter, I was in hopes that he would long remain with me ; but, though apparently in good healtli, on leaving New London, J;he fogs we encountered when crossing the Banks of Newfoundland gave him a severe cold, and, though every attention was paid to him, he was evidently failing very fast. One day we shot an eider-duck, and lowered a boat to get it, purposely that Kudlago might have a generous meal in his accustomed way. The bird was skinned and carried to the poor sick Esquimaux, who dissected it at once, eating only the heart and liver, both raw. lie seemed to relish it greatly, but BURIAL AT SEA. 41 could eat no more. As he expressed a desire to be on deck, a tent was erected there, that ho might enjoy the sunshine and the air. But nothing availed to suvc him. The following day he was again taken below, and never again left his berth alive. He died about h-^lf past four on Sunday morning. His hist words were, " Teik-ko st-ko? teik-ko se-ko?" — Do you see ice? do you ,see ice? His prayer was that he might arrive home, and once more look upon his native land — its mountains, its snows, its ice — and upon his wife and his little ones; he would then usk no more of earth. We had sighted the Labrador coast on our way, and after that we sailed several days without seeing ice. Kud- lago kept incessantly asking if we saw the ice, thinking, if so, we must be near to his home ; hut, poor fellow, he was still far away when his final moments came. He died in lat. 63° N., when near the coast of Greenland, and about 300 miles from his native place. Suitable preparations were soon made for his burial in the sea, and as I had always thought a " burial at sea" must be a scene of arreat interest, the one I now witnessed for the first time most strongly impressed itself upon me. Never did I participate more devoutly in what then seemed to me the most solemn scene of my life. There before us was the "sheeted dead," lying amidships on the gangway board, all in readiness for burial. The whole ship's company, save a solitary man at the wheel, had assembled in sorrowful silence around our departed friend, to pay the last respect we could to him. By the request of Captain B , who was bound by strong ties of friendship to Kudlago, I had consented to take an active part in the services. I therefore pro- ceeded to make such remarks as were deemed proper for the oc- casion. These were succeeded by my reading portions of appro- priate exhortations from the " ^Masonic ^Fanual," after which I read a prayer from the same excellent work. In this all seemed deeply, solemnly interested. During these services the breezes of heaven were wafting us on — silently, yet speedily to the north. At a given signal from the captain, who was standing on my right, the man at the helm luff- ed the ship into the wind and deadened her headway. William Sterry and Robert Smith now stepped to the gangway, and hold- ing firmly the plank on which was the shrouded dead — a short pause, and down sank the mortal part of Kudlago, the noble Es- quimaux, into the deep grave — the abyss of the ocean! Oh 42 AKCTIC KESEAUCII EXl'EDITlUN. what a scene ! llow solemn in its grandeur and its surround- ings! Tlie Sabbath morning; a cloudless sky; the sun shining in all its glory; the cold, dark blue ocean, its heaving bosom whitened over, here and there, with high pinnacled bergs; the /:,-;: -._i .w^,.. lis..,-, 1^. IIUKIAL OP KVDLAQO. lofty peaks of " Greenland's icy mountains" peering down from a distance in the east — these were some of the impressive features in the scene attending the burial of Kudlago at sea. An hour after the George Henry had been given to the Icadjjig KUD-LA-GO'S MONUMENT. 48 wind, I turned my eyes back to the ocean grave of Kndlago — a snow-white monument of mountain size, and of God\s uwnfas/iio)iiHg, was over it f The \t event of any importa to record was the celebr.aion of our glori- ous Fourth of J l'ly. At that time we were in Da- vis's Straits, near a i)hicc called 8^ikkerlo2>pei}, in Greenland, under all sail for llolsteinborg, and we had been in great ho{)es to have arrived during the day, but contrary winds and calms had prevented us. As it was, we did the best we could, and tried to prove ourselves, as we knew all of us to be, true sons of our country. The day, commencing at the turn of the midnight hour, was ushered in by cheers and firing of guns. Pistols, guns, blunderbusses, were in readiness for the word that should make the mountains of old Greenland echo back our thunderings for FRKEDOM AND OUR NATIVE LAND I As the hour approached, several of us were stationed at vari- ous places, ready to discharge the weapons in our hands at com- mand. Twelve o'clock came, and the Fourth of July, 1860, was upon us. " One ! two ! ! three ! ! ! Fire ! ! ! !" was the signal ; and never did the Oeorge Henry quiver more under the peal of de(>p- throated guns, in a noble cause, than on that occasion. After this the jubilee was continued by firing, and cheers on cheers. The "national colors were run up (for it was now broad daylight) and saluted. At noon another salute was given, and again twelve hours afterward, when the next midnight proclaimed that anoth- er anniversary of our glorious American freedom had again de- parted. But we had other causes of rejoicing on this especial day. At KLD-LA-UO'B MONL'ME.NT. 44 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. five in the evening we had arrived at a point on the const of Greenland whieli was very mueh like the neighborhood ol'IIol- steinborg. The bold mountain peaks were so thiekly enveloped in clouds that it was impossible to determine the exact locality. The sea also was covered with fog; hence it was wisely determ- ined to run ofi'the land for the night and lie-to. This was done, and as we were upon good codfish banks, lines were put over to catch some. We were very successful. Before twelve o'clock three lines had drawn in full 800 lbs. of halibut and codfish, the latter largely predominating. I myself caught four cod weighing in all 100 lbs. One halibut weiglied no less than 125 lbs., and two others fifty pounds each I I was astonished at the sight of every cod drawn in. Such gormandizers had they been — preying upon the smaller ones of their kind — that their stomachs were distended to the utmost limit of expansion. The next day, July 5th, we once more stood in toward the land, but it still continued foggy, and we were nnable to get near till about 4 P.M., having just before again sighted the Marianc. At that time two Esquimaux were seen coming at full speed toward us. In a few moments more they were alongside, and hoisted — kyacks and all — into the shi]). Their names were "Sampson" and •'Ephraim," each 5 feet 0^ inches in height, with small hands, small feet, and pleasing features, except that both had some of their front teeth gone. These men had brought an abundance oS sal- mon, eaplins, sea-birds, etc., and eagerly began to trade with us. Speedily we were on the most friendly terms, and, as they were retained to pilot us in, merry-making was the order of the day. On entering the cabin to supper their conduct was mo.st orderly, and when it was over they said, in good American, " Thank you." That night I had not long retired to rest before the cajitain came and told me it was calm, and a good opportunity for halibut and codfish. I was quickly dressed and on deck with line in hand. Two or three minutes more, and a halibut weighing 225 lbs. was fast to my line, fifty fathoms deep, and in another two minutes I had the fish up in the sun's rays with harpoon stuck through him. In one hour a ton weight of codfish and halibut was taken by the use of only three lines. Sometimes, as I was informed, halibut have been caught weighing 500 lbs. each, and measuring eight feet in length. The Esquimaux in Greenland use the transparent membrane of the stomach of this fish instead of plates of glass. ESQUIMAUX PILOTS. 45 Dmiiig tlio niglit our two Aiithful Esquimaux kept on deck, wateliiiig the almost obscured mountains, that they might guide us aright. Their clotliing was quite wet from exposure to the hi<^h soils that prevailed when they came to us, but they sat them- selves down on deck, and there watched, couglied, and quivered. I tliought, at the time, it were better if they could be j)revailcd upon to adopt the custom of our seamen — always on the move wnen out in the open air; but I understood they look upon our walking to and fro as foolishness — a great amount of hard work, wilii much expenditure of tunned skins (shoe-leather) and muscle all for naught ! For about an hour, one of the Esquimaux made his way up into a whale-boat and went to sloop. On waking, he seemed quite thankful for the luxury of sleeping, though in the open air, his bed, for several days past, having been on the soft side of a boat, on the rocks of an island forty miles distant from llolsteiuborg. He and his companion had been there engaged in hunting ducks, etc., when they discovered the (Jcoryc Ilmri/. They were very rag- ged, and Captain B presented each with some new garments, which made them truly thankful. Some of the articles were new pants, and each man immediately put on a pair. Sampson's was a fair fit — that is to say, they were tight as a drum upon him ; but Ephraim's ! the waist would not meet within six inches. This, however, was all the same to him. lie drew a long — very long breath ; so long, indeed, that I could not but think him like a whale, breathing once in ton minutes, or, if occasion required it, once in an hour ! Then, following this, Ephraim ceased for a moment to breathe at all, while he nimbly plied his fingers, and rapidly filled each button-hole with its respective button. Pants were now on and completely adjusted — buttoned! but as every living thing must have air or die, and as whales, when coming up to breathe, make the regions round about ring with the force with which they respire and inspire, so even an Esquimaux has to take in fresh draughts of oxygen, or he ceases to exist. Now Ephraim had, in buttoning his pants, suspended respira^on for some longer time than nature was capable of sustaining. Ac- cordingly, nature resumed her functions, and, in the act of giving a full respiration, Ephraim's pants burst, the buttons flying all over the deck I Civilization buttons and New London-made pants could not stand against the sudden distention of an Esquimaux's bow- els after being once so unnaturally contracted. Here the saying 40 AUCTIC RESKAncII EXPEDITION. of old Horace would bo useful: Kuturam expdks fiirca tavicn us- que recamt — You may turn Naturo out of doors with violence, but she will return ; and he might have continued — though the violence be an Ea([uiinaux's bowels much contracted by a pair of New London-maile pants of the nineteenth century I 1 will now again quote from my Journal; ^^ iSitlunhi;/, Jiihj 1th, After dancing around the harbor of IIol- ateinborg for many hours, we have at length made anchor within it. " During the last two or three days a fog of remarkable character has troubled us in making harbor. All at once the whole heav- ens would be clear and bright; in five minutes a thick fog would encircle us all around, closing from our view sunlight, the long ridge of Greenland mountains, the well-defined sea horizon, isl- ands, and icebergs. "Before coming to the North, I thought I was prepared to give a fair statement of the true theory of fogs. I now am satisfied that no one can give a satisfactory reason for the appearance and sudden disappearance — their reap{)carance and final dispersion, as I have witnessed them during the last four days. "At five o'clock this morning a Danish pilot came on board, who understood fully his business, which is more than I can say of the two Esquimaux, Sampson and Ephraim. Though they have shown great faithfulness, far beyond that of white men (as a gen- eral statement), yet I can not award them great praise in navi- gating large ships in their own and neighboring waters. "Last night was a happy night for me. No sunset. The slow descending sun, just dipping its edge in the Northern Sea, then hesitating in its course, then slowly mounting again into high heaven, gladdening my whole soul near to uncontrollable joy ! "The incidents connected are worthy to be recorded. The evening (at least after ten o'clock) was fine ; sky as clear as a bell ; the air cool and invigorating. "I found, by a hasty calculation, that we had made the north- ing which would allow us to see the sun continually when clear weath^; that the sun would gladden our sight day after day without setting. I announced to all hands that the sun would not go down that night; that on such a moment it would com- mence to return — to rise again. This was a novelty to many of the ship's crew. I then made my calculations carefully as to time — the hour, minute, and second when the sun would arrive at its lowest meridian. This was necessary, that I might determine, MIDNIGHT SUN. . 47 as well as the circumatances would admit, tho variation of the needle. "Twelve o'clock, low meridian, midnijj;ht — I use this in distinc- tion of high meridian, mitlihiy — was approiiching. Every man, captain, and tlie ship's ollicers and crew, save the portion of watch off duty below and asleep, stood around mo awaiting the anxious moment when the sun would cease its downward and commence its upward course. " The Gcor required among the sick natives. Shelves of stationery were also round the room ; and in a closet a quantity of eider-dov/n, from which, in 1850, both Dr. Kane and Commodore De Haven had some for their beds. The keys of the government buildings — many of ponderous size — were also kept in a closet here. After examining the several places of note, we sat down to an excellent supper of duck, salmon, trout, eider-duck's eggs, butter, American cheese, some very rich goat's milk, white flour bread, EVENING PAUTY ON SHORE. 69 Yankee-brewed rye liquors, and good tea. A Danish custom of shaking hands on rising from table followed. We then went out for a walk, and to call on the lieutenant governor. This gentle- man was very kind and urbane in his demeanor. He brought forth numerous specimens of Greenland rocks and of fossil fish — capelin (Mullotus villosus) — called by the Greenlanders " angmar- set," by the Danes " sild," and by the English " capelin." This fish is about six inches long, of a bluish-brown color on the back, and silver-white on the belly. The fossils were found about 100 miles up a fiord, the entrance to which is close by here. Though they are of great value, the lieutenant governor most generously presented the whole to me. At his house I saw some very good snow-shoes, such as are used in Norway. They are about six feet long by five inches wide, and covered with seJilskin. They are made of a flat, thin piece of board, bent up at its fore part. This is the kind of snow- shoe Parry bought at Hammerfest, in Norway, when on his North Pole voyage in 1827. He afterward used them for runners, on which he placed his two boats to be drawn over the ice. We spent the evening in the governor's house, wltere a pleas- ant party was assembled, among whom were the priest's wife, Mrs. KJer, and another lady, Feokcn B'ubu, daughter of the governor of the District of Godhaab. The priest himself was absent on a journey. During conversation I related how M'Clintock had found the paper belonging to Sir John Franklin's Expedition, and deep interest was evinced by all in the subject. The governor read from M'Clintock's work that portion telating to his visit here, and which I have already transcribed. When the part was translated which referred to the priest's wife being "blue with the cold," it caused immense merriment, none enjoying the joke more than the lady herself. The whole scene, indeed, was such as I can not readily forget. The Esquimaux servants, in their costume, were around, M'Clintock's book in the governor's hand, while the chart and fac-simile of the Franklin record lay open before him. After tea the ladies commenced knitting some lace, and during the evening Madam Kjer presented me with a mustard-ladle and two salt-shovels, all of ivory walrus tusk, made by an Esquimaux ivith only a knife! They were of excellent workmanship, and I valued them greatly. I had previously offered the ladies two pin and needle cushions, which they kindly accepted. During a conversation with the governor this day he informed 60 ARCTIC UESEARCII EXPEDITION, mc that the whole of Greenland belongs to the King of Denmark us his royal })rerogative, and is the only dependency that is con- trolled exclusively by him. Much fault is found with this by the people of Denmark — much written in the j)aper3. Those who are for the king retaining this right contend that otherwise the poor Esquimaux would at once become debased, and lose all the great inlluenees that are now at work for their benefit. Tiirow- ing open the ports of Greenland would be followed by vessels of every country visiting the natives, and purchasing their skins, oil, and bone for liquor! The Esquimaux of Greenland will dispose of their all to obtain spirituous drinks, and the governor said that not for any thing would he sell them a glass of liquor. After bidding the party a cordial good-night, we returned to the beach at half past ten, and found one of our boats ready to take us off. It contained Stcrry (red as a beet), Smith, Kogers, and five or six others of the crew, who had been at a dance given by the mother-in-law of the lieutenant governor. They had all enjoyed themselves amazingly. The following day, Wednesday, July 11th, fogs prevailed. Hardly a rftusquito had been seen since Sunday ; and to me it was a singular fact, that a warm sunny day will bring myriads around you within the arctic circle, when, if it be at all foggy, none arc to be seen. The bites of these annoying little insects remained for days, and my whole body was covered with the merciless wounds inflicted by them. In the afternoon an "oomiak," or looman^s boat, came along- side, rowed by Esquimaux girls. There were in the boat two mothers, with their babies, and ten young women. They had been out gathering fuel,* and called upon us on their way back. The accompanying illustration of an Esquimaux woman and child is a fac-simile of a wood-cut drawn and engraved by a Green- lander named Aaron, living near Godhaab, who has received no better education than the generality of his countrymen. About 2 P.M. of this day our consort, the Rescue, hove in sight, and, as the wind was almost gone, boats were sent to help her in, I went in one of the boats, pulling an oar, and, after rowing a dis- tance of some miles, got on board of the schooner. By that time it was calm, and the stillness of evening had approached. Anothei- boat, containing Smith, and the noble, good-hearted Esquimaux pilot, called Lars Kletjt, had joined us, and there we were, in real * A dwmf shrub — Andromeda tetrugoiin. ^ (IRKKNLANII WOMAN AMI Clin.S. [Kac-8inille of a wood-cut executed by an EBquimaux.] ESQUIMAUX DANCE ON SHORE. 68 whaling fashion, towing the new arrival into harbor. Four boats, of beautiful form and llnish— two white, with blue gunwales, and two green — were in a line ahead of the Jicscue, pulling her along, while the merry voices of our men resounded upon the still wa- ters and were echoed back from the bold mountains in answering glee. It was a pretty sight as witnessed from the schooner's deck, and one to bo often remembered. " Otto," a pure-blooded Esqui- mau.x, stood at the wheel to steer us in, and all hands besides, ex- cept the cook, were in the boats. At midnight wo came to an anchor within a couple of stones' throw of Government House. Both Otto and Lars Kkijt were reckoned such good men and ice pilots that every confidence was j)laced in them. I asked the latter, " What for" — meaning how much — "you go to West Land (King William's Land) with me?" His answer was, " My mother old man — she get no dinner — my little ones die!" Captain Walker, of a Scotch whaler, last year tried to get "Lars" to go with him, and offered to make him second mate; l)ut Lars said, " Me no go for all the world. My family I" A noble fellow this Lars. But, poor man ! ho was then much dis- tressed, owing to the loss of his wife, who had died a few weeks previous to our visit. He himself appeared very sick, and my sincere wish was that so good a husband, son, and parent might be spared for his little ones and the mother he so greatly loved. Olto loved his grorj. lie and Lars went out fishing. On re- turn, coming aboard, he most earnestly asked for a glass of spirits, " to keep salt-water out of poor Esquimaux !" In the evening of the following day, myself, the captain, mate. Lamb, and most of the crew, went on shore to a grand dance given by the Esquimaux girls to the white-men visitors. Sterry, our gonial Sterry, was in his clement. He had a most capital faculty for gaihing the affections of the fair sepc, and proved himself ex- cellent on the variations. He had a continual crowd of the good- looking around him. We had an old sea-captain (an Esquimaux), Ii'onflice, as a fiddler, perched up in the window, with pipe in his mouth, and merry, right merry did all of us become. Several dances, in excellent order, were performed, and many of our com- pany went through their waltzing with Esquimaux partners in capital style. Every thing was don*? in the most kindly and agreeable manner ; and when the party broke up, it left upon the mind of eauh of us a feeling of the most friendly nature. 64 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. The iirst Sunday at Ilolsteinborg I determined to ascend the mountain on the north side of the harbor, and there worship in the great temple of the world's Creator. In the morning, accom- panied by Sterry, we began the ascent, with a fine clear sky above, and the glorious sun shining warmly upon us. But, ere we had got far, swarms of musquitoes came around. Fortunately, I had long hair on my head, and my beard and mustache were also of great length. Sterry, however, had to cover his face with a band- kerchief having two little holes for look-outs. As we went on, streams of pure and sparkling cold water came dancing down the mountain side, and at these we several times quenched our thirst. Thus feteep after steep we mounted, but at what cost ! The sun's rays poured hot upon our backs, and both of us soon had to doff our cOats, leaving the musquitoes to perse- cute us at will. All we could do was to push on quickly, to see if we could get into a higher region where these torments did not abound. But our bodies soon became weary; and the steepness of the way was such that one false step would have proved fatal to us; yet we were not without some relief. Patches of broad- leaved sorrel on the mountain-side refreshed us greatly as we rested, and beds of moss, covered with smiling flowers, served as our temporary couch. In about two hours we gained the summit, both of us covered with musquitoes, and driven almost to madness by their stings. In vain we tried every thing that mind could think of to get rid of them. Nothing availed. We were doomed by these merciless invaders, and our very life's blood was copiously drawn forth to supply their gluttonous desires. On the other side of the mountain w^c saw a beautiful littli' lake ; and upon standing by its side, it was found to be clear as crystal, mirroring forth the lofty peaks above us. On its noutli shore was a low shingly beach, that had been thrown up* by the winds coming in this, the only direction they could cross the wa- ter. This lake was fed by various small streams that were leap- ing down from the snowy mountains, and, if it had got no other name, I termed it " William Sterry" Lake. We walked along it, and saw numerous salmon, small trout (three of which we caught with our hands), and many skulls and horns of deer. It was now dinner-time, and our appetite was well sharpened by the exercise we had enjoyed. Accordingly, a fire was lit whereby to cook the fish, though at first I was greatly puzzled MOUNTAIN EXCURSION. 05 1 how we were to get material for a firo ; but Sterry, who had been so much in this arctic region, well knew its resources. Where all looked barren to me, he soon found moss and some low brush- wood, like the running hemlock of the States. It is a tough shrub, with small leaves and white blossoms, which produce black berries with red sweet juice. Dwarf willow, heather, and small undergrowth wood of various description are intermixed. The dead wood, the leaves, stalks, and limbs of preceding years, are thickly interspersed with the growing portions of this fuel, and it was with it that Sterrj' so quickly made a fire. A result follow- ed, however, that we little expected. The abundance of such fuel around caused the fire to spread rapidly, and as a strong breeze was now blowing, it soon got beyond our control. Sterry, how- ever, very calmly said, "Never mind; let it burn. Of what use is this to any body, hemmed in here by these mountains ?" So I very quietly made myself content, and sat down to the primitive meal — a carpet of heather for our table, and huge precipices yawn- ing close by, with high, broken mountains that pierced the sky grimly looking down upon us. Tliere is philosophy in every thing, especially in eating. The world eats too much. Learn to live — to live as we^ ought. A little food well eaten is better for any one than much badly eat- en. Our pleasures have a higher relish when properly used. Thus we thoroughly enjoyed our food, and, after a short nap, started on the return journey. As we passed along, I noticed several large rocks, thousands of tons in weight, that had evidently fallen from the tops of two lofty mountains, the detached portions corresponding in shape to the parts vacated. Every where was seen the effects of the freez- ing of the water that percolates into the crevices. The tremen- dous workings of Nature in these mountains of Greenland during the arctic winter often result in what many of the inhabitants think to be earthquakes, when, in foct, the freezing of water is alone the cause ! In descending, we encountered several little clear, babbling brooks, innumerable flowers, and shrub-fuel in abiindance. Peat was also plentiful. Fox-holes in numbers were seen, and a natural canal, with an embankment, in appearance much like the levee at New Orleans. On arriving at the beach, which was a quarter of a mile long, we found it as smooth and inviting as that of Cape May. The limit of this beach was next to an abrupt bank with millions of broken E QQ ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. shells upon it, and covered with driftwood ten feet above high- water mark. One piece was twelve feet long. Here, from a boat that took us off, we heard that the town of Holsteinborg was much alarmed about the fire up in the mountain, and, from what I afterward gathered in an explanation I had with the governor when I apologized for our thoughtlessness, it was evident that the Esquimaux dreaded the loss of what they considered their best fields — not woods — of fuel. Fortunately, the fire went out in about an hour after its discovery by the people. It was on this Sunday afternoon that I heard of a curious cus- tom here. The dance-house is regularly opened after 4 P.M. The people go to church in the morning and afternoon, then they consider Sunday to cease, and amusement begins. I went to the dance-house, where I found the governor, his lieutenant, Miss Bli- lou, and Mrs. Kjer. Miss Bulou and the lieutenant governoi- danced, but the governor has not for years, and the priest and his wife never. Sometimes 150 persons are crowded into this dance- house. I asked the governor when the Sabbath began. He replied, " On Saturday evening, and ends Sunday at -i P.!M." I farther inquired if the Esquimaux were at liberty to work after that hour on Sundays, lie said, " No, certainly not." " Then how i it the government dance-house is opened for balls at that time?" said I. "Oh, that is not tvorkf" responded the good Governor Elberg. deferring to the amusements of these native Greenlanders, I am led to speak of a great festival that occurs hero on the Danish king's birthday, and is general, on the same day, throughout all the scttlemei ts. His Danish majesty supplies the good cheer, and Europeans as well as Esquimaux join in the festivity. It is a most enlivening scene, as the accompanying sketch will show. The original of this picture, which I have in my possession, was drawn by a Greenlander, and Mrs. Kjer, who gave it to me, said it was an admirable representation of the great festal day. On another occasion I visited the church one Sunday morning, when the school-teacher — a native Esquimaux — preached exceed- ingly well, and I must say that the general attention given would do credit to people any where. The preacher played an organ, and went through the whole services in a most praiseworthy man- ner. Indeed, I was much struck with the great advance made by the native inhabitants of Holsteinborg in Christian and general s ^y i . ADVANCED EDUCATION OF THE GREENLANDERS. 69 educational kiowledge. Their school is well attended, and read- ing and writing are carried on admirably. Very few persons here at home have any true conception of the great advance made in education by these Groenland-i!]squimaux. It has often astonished me when listening to the apt and ready way in which even children would pronounce some of their ex- traordinarily long words, some of those words consisting of no less than fifty Ifetters ! The following is one of their long words, but not the longest: Piniagagssakardluarungnaerangat. In all the trials made on one occasion in the cabin, by both male and female — by old and young — by all, I found none but could read, and read well. I was surprised to see the rapidity — the full, clear enunciation of every syllable, with which they read ; and one little Esqui- maux boy seemed to exceed the rest, though all did well. Perhaps I can not give my readers a better idea of this than re- printing a small portion of a child's First Primer, beginning at the alphabet, and giving the sound of each letter. The explana- tion was carefully made to me by Miss Biilou. The Greenland-Esquimaux alphabet consists of twenty-four let- ters, as follows : A, B, D, E, F, G, n, I, J, K, K', L, M, N, 0, P, R, S, T, U, V, Y, M,0. The sound of each letter only varies from what we give to the same in the following : G is ke; H, ho; I, c ; J, yogc ; K, qu ; K', qu ; R, er ; U, oo ; Y, oe-i. The following is the Lord's Prayer in Esquimaux: "Atiltarput liillangmetottina! Alckit usfornarfille I Natega- vot tikkiudle ! Pekkosltet killangmifut nunnamisaak taimaikil- le! Tunnisfigitt udlome pikfavtinuik ! Pisfaraunatta akketfo- ravta, pisficngillavuttuak akketfortivut ! Usfcrnartomut pisfitfa- raunatta, ajortomidle annautigut! Nala>gaunerogavit pirfarfou- nerudluttidlo usfornarncrudluttidlo isfokangittomut. Amen." The minister Kjer has been at work translating " Robinson Crusoe" into Esquimaux, that copies might be printed and dis- tributed among his people in Greenland. In his library there is an Esquimaux Bible, and every thing is done to make the natives of Ilolsteinborg good and happy. Dr. Rink has also is- 70 ARCTIC RESEAUCII EXPEDITION. sued some useful story-books in Esquimaux, one oS which books, and also a copy of the doctor's famous work, the governor kindly gave me. Dr. Rink is so well known by repute among scientific men and others, that I need hardly say much about him. Unfortunately, he was absent at my visit, but I wrote to him about the object of my undertaking, and expressed my regret at not having had the pleasure of an interview.* ■ The following are a few interesting particulars I obtained from Governor Elberg concerning this eminent man : At the time I visited Ilolsteinborg he had been inspector of South Greenland eight years; two years also governor of Julian- na-haab. lie is a tall man, and n clever student. lie was cm- ployed by government to survey Greenland, and received during the time 500 Danish dollars per annum, besides found in every thing. The government supplied all the boats, men, and pro- visions. Dr. Rink's wife was 17 years of age when he married her. She was the daughter of Governor Miiller, who in 1860 was succeeded by Governor Elberg over the Ilolsteinborg District. Mrs. Rink was born at Frederick's Haab, and she likes Greenland so well for her home that she would be sorry to leave it. * The following is a copy of the letter I sent to Dr. Rink, and, os it explains some matters that belong to my movements after this date, I here append it: " IIoLBTEisiioBO, Greenland, July 24th, ISflO, on board the barque Oeorge Ilenry. "Dr. II. Rink: "Deau Sir, — I'liongh unacijuainted personally, yet I claim to know you, in com- mon with my countrymen, from your works, as a man devoted to the increase of knowledge among men, esjiecially tiiat knowledge i)ertuining to geograj)hy and science. "On my arrivol hero, July 7th, it was with sorrow that I learned from Governor Elberg that you had departed. The pleasure and profit, intellectually, of meeting one so exjMsrieneed in and devoted to the regions of the North would have been in- calculable. "I am on my way to King William's Land, ma Frobisher Strait, Fox Channel, Fury and Hecla Strait, Gulf of Boothia, and Boothia. On the peninsula of Boothia and King AVilliam's Land I ex])ect to spend the next tiiree years, devnting myself mainly to the object of continuing and completing the history of the Franklin Ex- pedition. "I am satisfied that Frobisher Strait can be navigated, though no vessel has yet penetrated through its entire length. Fox Channel, on the east side, has never been navigated beyond latitude (!0° r>0' N. Fox's Farthest, and Parry's discovery near the eiLst entrance oi Fury and Ihch Strait, should be connected by other discoveries. I am hoping to complete this chain of discoveries this year. "Since my arrival here in Greenland — 17 days ago — I have received the most kindly and hospitable attention from Governor Ell)erg, the knowledge of which will be gratifying to my countrymen under whose auspices I am making this voy.ige. " Governor Elberg has presented me with a copy of your work upon South Green- land. This is another valuable acqtiisition to the geographic and scientific world. "Believe me, sir, JIumani nihil alienum, ' ' Respectfully, C. F. Hall. " GOVEKNOR VISITS THE SHIP. 71 CHAPTER III. Visit of Governor Elberg to tlio Ship. — His Pleasure at American Progress. — Adnm Beck. — Another Mountain Ascent. — Tiic " Woman's Hood." — A grand Scene.— Ball on board Ship. — Sun's Eclip?e. — Danger to Ship dnd Hoat in a Gale. — Cu- rious Esquimaux Feats. — Mishap to the (leonje Henry's Windlass. — A stirring Picture. — Kind Assistance of the Governor. — Preparations for Departure. — Let- ters Home. — Leave-taking. — Final Adieus. — Farewell to Holsteinborg. Our consort, the Rescue, having rejoined us, it was determined by Captain Budington to depart for his whaling-ground on west side Davis's Straits directly all the necessary preparations about the ship were completed foi'^ navigating among the ice. Mean- while I availed myself of the spare time to frequently visit the shore, and take rambles in the neighborhood. But, though I find many things in my journal that might be worth mentioning at this period, yet there is so much to be said elsewhere, when I ar- rive on the actual field of my labors, that I must now hurriedly go over what more occurred at Ilolsteinborg. I here make a few extracts from my journal : ^'■Juhj lS(h. This afternoon Governor Elberg, with his lieuten- ant and wife, visited us, and were welcomed to the best of our power. I had promised the governor to show him a collection of arctic charts brought with me, and also the British Parlia- mentary Reports of the Searching Expeditions, and the works of Kane, Franklin, Parry, etc. He was greatly interested, making many inquiries that I took pleasure in answering. A map of the United States much attracted his attention, and he asked several questions as to our home progress, and the rise of new cities, in- ventions, etc. Street-railroads were quite new to him, he never having heard of such in the Old Country. " He inquired very much about Mr. Grinnell, whose name is as familiar in Greenland as it is in the United States and Europe. "At our tea the governor partook of two dishes which he then tasted for the first time in Greenland, viz., fresh lobsters and cran- berry preserves. He pronounced them ' very good.' American cheese — with which he keeps himself well supplied — he also likes much. 72 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. " After an intoichange of friendly gifts — that from the govern- or being an Esquimaux suit of water-proof sealskin — our visitors took their departure, and were rowed on shore by giils, two of them very neatly attired in their native costume. "This day, in presence of Captain Budington and Lars Klcijt, I have had a prolonged conversation with Adam Beck, an Es- quimaux who acted as interpreter for Sir John Boss in 1850-1. Lars can talk much more fluently the English language than Adam Beck. The latter said : '"Captain Phillips' (who was with Sir John Ross) 'speak: "Adam Beck, plenty lie." Beck then paused a moment and add- ed, "Sir John Ross very good man — plenty pray — plenty eat — Carl Petersen no speak Husky (Esquimaux) quick — not good Husky speak — small speak Husky !" ' "Adam farther continued, and said 'he spoke with the Esqui- maux at Cape York. They told Itim two ships had been seen there; that there were plenty of officers and men — much butter and much bread — ships go all to pieces — all die, Adam Beck speak to Petersen, lie! Petersen speak Adam Beck, lie! Carl Petersen plenty lie — d — d lie !'' " Both Captain B and myself arc satisfied that Adam Beck told to Sir John Ross exactly what York-Cape Esquimaux told to him. It seems that Commander Phillips and Carl Petensen re- peatedly told Beck that he was a liar, and otherwise abused this now almost wreck of a man ! The treatment Adam Beck re- ceived from Sir John Ross is remembered kindly to this day. Poor Beck was the instrument of communicating fabrications of Cape York Esquimaux, and for this English historians have writ- ten him down as the author, when it is not probable that he was, taking all the circumstances into consideration. The stigma cast upon him burns to his very heart's core to this day. Even here his name is blackened by the public notoriety given him abroad as the man who fabricated falsehoods relative to the destruction of two ships near Cape Dudley Digges, and the violent deaths of the officers and men supposed to refer to Sir John Franklin's Ex- pedition. " Who of us that has pot done an act worthy to be so gener- ally condemned could stand up against this tide? Not one in a thousand would do it ! Adam Beck is of the 999. He lives on the ' don't care principle.' He has lost all self-respect, for all shun him. I pity him from the bottom of my heart. Would that EXCUR'^ION TO TIIK "WOMAN'S HOOD." 78 cheering words like those Sir John Eoss was wont to utter when living could be whispered in his ear. Adam Beck is wretched — poor. He has an old, rickety, leaky boat, that some one has abandoned. That is all ho has in this world, save the old skins on his back that once warmly covered him. I will strive to show him the respect due as a human being. Though he be an out- cast, I know there is in his breast a chord that will vibrate to kindness and humanity. ^^ /Saturday, July 14:th. This afternoon I started out for the mountains accompanied by Adam Beck. I had with me swing- ing from my shoulders my sextant and my glass, and in my pock- ets tape-line, geological hammer, chisel, and other traps. "After some distance we came to a river that it was necessary to cross, but for three miles we could find no j)racticable ford. At length I determined to strip and wade over, carrying my clothes and effects on my head. The water was intensely cold, and two winds met exactly in my passage, yet the scene was ex- traordinarily beautiful ! The golden sand under my feet — the dia- mond-shaped waves caused by the angular breezes — the arctic sun pourii;f; down its bright, warm. rays from just above the peaks of Greenlf.nd's mountains, and reflected from the sparkling waters around me, will never be forgotten. " On landing, I replaced my clothes and trudged along, gather- ing many beauteous flowers by the way. Up, up the mountain — steep following steep — away we went, leaving piles of stones — three stones in each (I said in my thoughts, ' I^'aith, Hope, and Charity') — to mark the way on our downward path, for our route was heretofore unknown by the native or the European popula- tion. At length we came to the top of ail save the last mountain, whicli was covered with snow. Here we found the steepness to be such that for a moment I hesitated ; but, determined to try and ascend yet higher, I made the attempt. Adam looked up and shook his head, actually falling to the ground, saying he ' would not, coidd not accompany me for the whole world!' Therefore I liad to go alone. "The peak I was about to climb bad the name of 'Woman's Hood,' and I started on my way up it with great caution, erecting piles of ' Faith, Hope, and Charity' at intervals, to guide me back. Every now and then I was obliged to desist. The sun in the northwest was pouring on my back compound rays, in addition to the dazzling glare reflected from the sea. The exprtion made 1^ 74 AKCTIC UKSKAUCII EXPEDITION. was immense. Froquoiitly I bad to dig out cracks between the rocks for both fingers and toes to hold on by. 1 dared not look around. I w.is unable to do any thing but go on. At length 1 reached a lofty pL>!,k, and to my dismay beheld another beyond it. with a precipice between I For a moment I hung to the roek upon which I stood. I closed my eyes. I gradually opened them, with shaded hands. I gazed upon the awful depths be- low^ ; then, glancing round, I saw one of Nature's grand and mighty scenes. Mountains upon mountains, with great breaks between, burst on my view. On one side, the lake, river, and valley below, with Davis's Straits in the distance ; on the other, peak upon peak, to some five hundred, towering upward to the skies. Mount Cunningham, as the highest was called, was evi- dently inaccessible, and to attempt it would have been foolhardy. I therefore ended my journey here, erected a pile of stones, and then marking my name, began the descent. *' I found Adam Beck anxiously waiting me, and, in due course, together we reached the town, where I procured a boat and got safely on board, well tired, but satisfied with my journey." Adam informed me that his children had no food, and though I had paid him well, and did for him all in my power, yet that could not help him much. The next day he, his wife, two chil- dren, and an infant at her back, went out in their rickety canoe to try and catch fish for " poor picaninnies." The following is a fac-sirailo of Adam Beck's writing, when I asked him to put down his name and date of birth, which he did, adding the name of Sir John Boss. There is no C in the Greenland-Esquimaux ali^habet, as already explained, and this accounts for its omission in the above. On the 16th of July we endeavored to return the many kind- nesses shown us by the good people of Ilolsteinborg by inviting them to a ball. The lieutenant governor and lady, the school- DANCE ON BOARD SHIP 75 master and bis wife, with their inruiit child at her back, and most all the town, were there. Never did the Georyc JItnri/ and her crew look happier, gayer, or present a more varied acenc. With warm hearts, honest faces, and a ready mood lor the fullest mirth of the hour, did we enter upon the festive day. The vessel was decorated for the occasion, and it would amuse many friends and readers at homo were 1 able to give at length all that occurred. In this merry dance the Es(|uimaux ditl their very best, and our bold sailor-boys showed themselves not a whit behind. Even Captain B , Mate Rogers, and — my- self! had to join in the dizzy whirl. As for mysell", 1 was pos- itively yorctc^ into it. In a jocular yet impressive manner, one and all insisted upon my treading on "the light fantastic toe." My biinds were [>laced in those of two Esquimaux ladies, when I was fairly dragged into the dance ; and dance I .ship, but for Muto Kogcrs and those with him out seaward in Davis's Straits. It .seemed impos- sible that any snuill craft could survive in such a storm. Our chances had been doubtful, even in a good harbor; what, then, had wo reason to expect for the fate of those in a boat outside? Wc felt dismayed, and eagerly were our glances bent in the di- rection our poor comrades had taken in the morning. Every glass was in requisition to catch a siglit of them, but only tbo mountain waves da.shing again.st the rock-ribbed coast, and send- ing their spray full lifty feet in the air, met our view. At last Captain B , who was aloft, cried out, " There they come I there they come!" and, sure enough, we now saw them at a distance, struggling bravely, perseveringly, desperately, amid the roar and lieree turmoil of the wild sea threatening to ingulf them. Pres- ently they emerge from the confused ma.ss of waters, and we be- hold them more distinctly. Oh, how they seem to strain each nerve ! How desperate their all but Herculean efforts to try and .save themselves! One moment they appear to be lost; the next wc notice them again struggling on as determinedly as ever. "Pull, pull, for dear life's sake, my good men !" was the involun- tary cry of each on board; and right bravely did they pull. On they come, thrown about and driven about in the very maddest of revengeful .sport that Ocean and Wild Storm could devi.se. At length they near the ship. A few strokes more — a well-directed movement of the steering-oar, and our l)eaten and exhausted com- rades are alongside ! Hurrah ! thank God, wc have them .safe on board ! It appeared that the gale had overtaken them suddenly, and at first they attempted to land upon an island, but this the breakers would not admit. There was no alternative, therefore, but to make for the ship as best they could. In doing so, a heavy sea ' struck the boat, overwhelming it and them. But now was the time for trial of the will and arm of man against winds and waves. Brave souls were in that boat, and Mate Rogers proved himself full} equal to the occasion. The boat was cleared, and stern, bold hearts defiantly pulled her onward to the ship, which they finally reached, utterly worn out by tLeir fearful exertions. Now that they were safe, all their power was gone. A v^hild could have overpowered the whole together. Wet, cold, and enfeebled, their case required immediate attention. Dry clothing, warm drink.s, 78 ARCTIC KESEARCII EXPEDITION. £111(1 stimulants were at once supplied ; and thus, witb careful treat- ment, they soon recovered. At 10 P.M. the gale had died away to a calm, and we all re- tired to sleep, completely exhausted with our bodily and mental labors of the past few hours. About this time I enjoyed a rare sight. One of the Esquimaux turned summersets in the ivaier seated in his lojach! Over and over he and his kyack went, till we cried "Enougli !" and yet he ivet only his hands and face / This is a feat performed only by a few. It requires great skill and strength to do it. One miss in the stroke of the oar as they ])ass from the centre (when their head and body are under water) to the surface might terminate fatally. No one will attempt this feat, however, unless a com- EligUIMAUX KKAT— A HUMMEriHET. panion in his kyack is near. The next feat I witnessed was for an Esquimaux to run his kyack, while seated in it, over another. Getting some distance off, he strikes briskly and pushes forward. In an instant he is over, having struck the upturned ]ieak of his own kyacl: nearly amidships, and at right angles, of the other. These feats were rewarded by a few plugs of tobacco. The day after the gale we tad a mishap on board that threat- ened to prove serious, and, as it was, it detained us some days longer in ITolsteinborg. Ouv anchors fouled, and, in trying to get one of them, the windlass gear broke. At this time our deck was crowded by the crews of both ves- sels, and Esquimaux men, women, and children, besides some dogs GOOD CHARACTER OF THE GREENL ANDERS. 79 I had purchased for my future sledge traveling. These together presented a remarkably stirring picture, while the howling of the dofs, the sailors singing in chorus as they pulled on the ropes, with the varied voices of Americans, Esquimaux, French, Dan- ish, and Dutch, made a confusion of tongues somewhat akin to Babel. By noon all attempts to get the anchor, now the windlass was defective, proved vain. It was therefore decided to call upon the o-overnor and ask him for his blacksmith to aid our Sterry in re- pairing the gear. Permission was instantly granted, but the in- jury done was of such a nature as to require days to make it good. The following day, however, we succeeded in hoisting up our faithful anchor, and it was then determined, as soon as the windlass was ready, to sail for the west or opposite side of Davis's Straits. While pulling on the ropes side by side with Esquimaux, I was strongly reminded of the opinion many civilized persons have of their savage and cruel nature. Why, instead of that, they are glorious good fellows. As for eating a man up, they would soon- er let a hungry man cat them out of all, without saying a word, unless it was "Welcome, stranger! as long as I have, you shall share with me." This is just their nature. The time I was at ilolsteinborg I saw much of the inhabitants, and my opimon as to their honesty, good-nature, good-will, and genuine hospitidity is .strong and unmixed. They possess these virtues to an em- inent degree. The vices so prominent and prevalent in more civ- ilized communities are all but unknown here. The test they were put to on board the George Iknrij was enough to satisfy any man tluit they are honest. Numbers of Esquimaux, of all ages and of both sexes, were almost constantly on board, yet not the slightest tiling was missed by any of us. We never thought it necessary to " keep an eye" on this or that, though their desire for any of our trinkets was ever so great. Wherever we placed an article, there we found it. Among other incidents well remembered of my sta_> nt Ilol- steinborg, I must not forget' the garden attached to Governor EI- berg's house. He was very proud of this garden, though there was but little in it. One evening he took me there. The radish- es and turnips looked flourishing, but they were diminutive in the ext -eme. Those I tasted were good, I relished them exceeding- ly, tops and all. 80 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. I have mentioned purchasing here some dogs for sledge-work. They were six in number, and the governor kindly gave me his experience in selecting the best animals. I bought the six for about ten Danish dollars, equivalent to five dollars American. As these dogs will be frequently alluded to in my narrative, I here append a list of their Greenland names : 1. Kingolc ; 2. Barhekark ; 3. Ei — pronounced Ee; 4. Me-lak-tor — the leader; 5. Me-rok ; 6. Afe-luk, or Ivi-o-koo-lik, afterward called Flora. For their food I purchased over two bushels of little dried fish ("capelins")for twenty-five cents. At length the repairs of our windlass were complete, and on Tuesday, July 24th, a fair wind gave notice we were about to take our departure. Two pilots — Otlo and Lars — came on board, and as some of our men had gone ashore, the colors were hoisted for their return. All was excitement. My letters for home had to be finished, and my last farewell uttered to kind friends. As I wrote in the cabin below, there was at my side a beautiful bouquet of arctic Jlowers in great variety, sent me by several ol' the Ilolsteinborg young ladies ; and I could not but feel, as I then expressed in my letter, astonished at the profuseness of Nature's productions in that part of the world. Having finished my letters all but a few concluding lines, J was soon in a boat rowed by Esquimaux, and carried to the land- ing-place at the foot of a hill leading to the town. As we nearcd the shore, all the inhabitants — including dogs and goats as well as Esquimaux and Danes — covered the place. On the beach were the Oeorge Ilemijs men just about to leave, having paid their farewell visit to the warm - hearted people. Hearty cheers from the boat as it pushed off signified most clear- ly that not in words alone, but from the very soul, was meant ■' Farewell, good friends; we thank you for your kindness, and will remember you forever !" To this the Greenlanders respond- ed by similar cheers, and I am sure with similar feelings. Indeed, the parting exhibited several scenes worthy of notice. Almost every evening during our stay in the harbor, our " boys" had been invited to dances with the Esquimaux. Acquaintance ripened as interviews increased. Friendships became firmly established, and, in some cases, love finally ruled supreme. On this partinme in South Iladley Falls, Mass., about the Ist of March, 18G0, for Boston. I remained in Boston until the 20th of the same month. I a])ijlicd at ditfercnt oflBces for a chance to ship ; being a stranger in the place, and a green hand, I found it very difHcult to get a berth to suit me. At last I got a little discouraged, and that day signed my name at No. 172 Com- mercial street, Boston, and left for New Bedford, Mass. Next morning I shipped to go aboard of tlie ship Daniel Webster, then laying at New Bedford, but to sail the same day on a whaling cruise to Davis's Straits, to Ikj gone 18 months. "I left New Bedford in the Daniel Webster on the 21st of March, 1800. There were forty of us in the crew, all told. We had very rough weather for many days after leaving, which caused many of us to be sea-sick ; I suflFcred from it about three weeks ; after that time I began to recruit. There was nothing hap])ened of any consequence worth mentioning until we passed Ca))e Farewell, about the last of May. After that we had quite a hard time, working the ship through the ice ; oc- casionally, however, we made out to get her through, and came to anchor, July 6, 18G0. "We spoke many vessels going in. I will name some of them: the Hannibal, of New London ; the Black Eagle and Antcloiie, of New Bedford ; the AnscU Gibbs, of Fairhaven ; tlie Pioneer, of New London. These vessels were anchored very close to one another in the harbor ; the crews were at liberty sometimes to pay visits to each other ; eoch one would toll how he was treated ; several complained of very bad treatment, especially the crew of the Ansell Gibbs; they were planning some way of running away for a long time, but they found no opportunity till the 4th of August. " My shipmate, whose name was Warren Dutton, was aboard that day, and heard a little of the conversation, and he joined in with them, and said he would go, and perhaps one or two more of hie crew. He immediately came aboard and informed me; and he pictured every thing out so nice, that I finally consented to go with him. We had no great reason for leaving our vessel ; we could not complain of very bad treatment aboard ; all we conld comjilain of was that we were very badly fitted out for such a cold climate ; and, after wo arrived there, hearing of so many men that died there the last winter of scur\-y, we were afraid to remain there, for fear that we might get it. We thought by running away, also, we would be all right; but we were sadly mistaken. " After it was agreed upon to leave, each one was busy making preparations for a start. I, with my shipmate, packed what few things we thought would be neces- sary inio a traveling-bag which belonged to me ; we then crept into the hold, and filled a ."mall bag and a pair of drawers with hard bread, and waited for on o])por- tunity to hide it on deck, un' ran away from us that night, and took with them every thing that was of any use to us; they even took the boat's compass, and left us in n miserable condition, with our boat broadside on the beach. It being tiieir watch, they made out to get off. We thought it was useless to make chase after them, so we let them go. It then commenced to rain, and there was a heavy sea rolling in, and, weak as we were, we found some difficulty in shoving tho boat off. However, after a hard tug, we sue- 96 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. ceciled, and then pulled outsomo wnys; wo then up snil; it was not up long before it blew so Ktrong timt itcnrricd away the ninst. Wo then ran in under a jib, and made a Ico. About half an hour after wc landed my shipmate died of starvation. The evening ho died, Samuel Fisher proposed to cat him ; ho took his knifo, and cut a piece off the thigh, and held it over the flro until it was cooked. Then, next morning, each one followed his example ; after that the meat was taken ofl" the bones, and each man took a shore. Wo stopped hero three days. Wo then made a start ; but the wir.d being ahead, we were obliged to put back. Hero wo stopped two more days. During that time the bones were broken up small, and boiled in a pot or kettle we ha<'. ; also the skull was broken open, the brains taken out, and cooked. Wo then got a fair wind, but as we got around a point, wo had the wind very fresli off shove ; we could hardly manage the boat ; at last wo drove on to an island sonic ways out to sea; we got the boat under the lee of .'t; but the same night we had a largo hole stove into her. Being unablo to haul her up, we were obliged to remain here eight days: it was on this island they tried to murder mo. "I'hn iliird day we stojjped here, I was out as usual picking berries, or any thing I could find to eat. Coming in, I chanced to pi'-'c up a mushroom. 1 brought it in with me ; also an armful of wood to keep. While kneeling down to cook the mush- room, I received a heavy blow of a club from Joseph Fisher, and before I could get on my feet I got Ihrco more blows. I then managed to get to my feet, when Samuel Fisher got hold of my right arm ; then Joseph Fisher struck me three more blows on the arm. I somehow got away from them, and, being half crazy, I did not know what to do. They made for me again ; I ke|)t begging of them, for God's sake, to spare my life, Init they would not listen to my cries. They said they wanted somu meat, and were bound to kill me. I had nothing I could defend myself with but n small knife; this I held in my hand until they approached me. Samuel Fisher was the first to come toward me ; he hud a largo dirk-knife in his hand ; his cousin was coming from another direction with a club and a stone. Samuel came on and grasped me by the shoulder, and had his knifo raised to stab me. I then raised my knife, and stabbed him in the throat; he immediately fell, and I then made a step for Joe ; he dropped his club, and went up to where the rest was. I then stooped down to see if Samuel was dead ; ho was still alive. I did not know what to do. At this time I began to cry ; after a little while the rest told me to come up ; they would sec there was nothing more done to mo. I received four deep cuts on the head ; one of the fellows dressed them for me, and washed the blood off my face. Next day Samuel Fisher died ; his cousin was the first one to cut him up ; his body was used up the same as my unfortunate shipmate's. "After a while we managed to repair the bo.it, and left this island. We ran in where wo thought was main land, but it proved to bo an island ; here we left the boat, and proceeded on foot, walking about one mile a day. At last wc reached the other side of the island in four days ; then put back again to the boat. It took us four days to get back again. When we got there, we found the boat was stove very bad since wc left her. Wc tried to get around the island in her, but she sunk when wo got into her ; wc then left her, and went back again to the other side of the isl- and, to remain there until we would die or be picked up. We ate our boots, belts, and sheaths, and a number of bearskin and sealskin articles we had with us. To add to our misery, it commenced to rain, and kept up for three days; it then began to snow. In this miserable condition, we were picked up by a boat's crew of Esqui- maux on the 29th of Sei)tomber, and brought to Okoke on the 3d of October. The missionaries did all that lay in their power to help us along, and provided ns with food and clothing, then sent us on to Nain, where wo met 'the doctor,' who was AURIVE AT CORNELIUS GHINNELL BAY. 97 picked up three days before wo wore. Ho reported that his companion died, and told nmiiy ful.sc sturieH nftor lie was jjickcd up. "The missionaries of Naiu helped us on to Ilopcdalc; from there we were sent on to Kihokok. where two of us rcmuined through the winter. (Jno sto]>ped with a planter, nj'.ii'ed John Lane, between Nain and llopedalc; the doctor stojjped with John. Walker until March, when he loft for Indian Harbor; the remaining two, Jo- soph Fisher and Thomas Colwcll, also Btu))ped with planters around Indian Harbor. Mr. Ik'll, the agent at Kibokok, kept two of us until wo could find an ojjportnnity of leaving the coast. Wo left his place about tho 10th of July, and came to Macovic, waiting a chanco to get off. "Captain Duntan has b'-en kind enough to give mo a passage; my companion was taken by Captain Hamilton, of tlie Wild Hover. We have had a very |)leasant pas- sage so far, and I hope it will continue so. "Sir, I hojHS you may make it out; it is very poor writing, and was written in haste. John F. Sullivan." III addition to the above, Mr. Leacli kindly furnislied me with the following information in a letter dated Feb. 25tli, 18G8 : " Mr. Kenneth M'Lca, Jr., merchant of Newfoundland, informs me that he has had letters from the missionary settlements on the coast of Labrador, in which they say these men conducted them- selves ' shamefully.' Instead of feeling grateful for the hospitahty they received, they demanded to be supported with the privilege of doing as they pleased. I understand one of them still remain- ed at Labrador. No doubt the rest have shipped under assumed names, feeling ashamed to return to their native country." Soon after the boat, with its desperate crew, had left us, we were passing one of the channels leading to the long-sought bay. This bay is a very fine sheet of water, and is protected by " Sa- rah's" Island at the entrance. Its length is about fifty miles, and its width six miles. On entering it by the south channel we were becalmed, and the boats were set to work towing us in ; but, though we were up all night, next morning saw us still at some ten miles' distance from our harbor. At this time a perfect flotilla of boats were discovered approaching us. They were six whale- boats, fully manned, five belonging to a ship called the Black EiKjle, Captain Allen, and one to the Rescue. As soon as they arrived, quietly greeting us, they wheeled in line ahead of our own boats, and aided in towing us in. An interesting scene it was before and around us : eight boats in line, pulling the ship onward, with brawny arms at the oars, and merry voices pouring forth the sailor's songs as measured and uniform strokes gave even time to the movement ; the still waters of the deep bay, the perpendicular rocks by our side, and the craggy mountains G 98 ARCTIC UESEAKOT TXPElMTION. overhanging our heads, their peaks reaching up as if to kiss the clouds ! At noon, August 8th, 1860, we rcaciied our anchorage, and at length were secure in the harbor we lad so long been seeking. The Rescue had anchored before us. :^>if>- lOEUEBO ANU KI-A. THE INNUITS, OH ESQUIMAUX 99 CHAPTER V. Visited by the NntivcH. — Brief Account of somo of them. — A very ngeJ Woman. — Oo-lii-jox-y Ni-noo. — A numerous Family. — Ugarng and liis thirteen Wives. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — Kudlago's Widow, Kolt-er-jab-in. — " Blind George." — Excursion on Shore. — Anecdote of the Greenland Dogs. — Beautiful Scenery. — How Nature splits huge Iloclcs. — An Alabaster Cave. — Arctic Food. — First, Taste of Bear-meat. — Americanizing Kim-rai-loo. — A Blind Man threading a Needle and mending Clothes. — Astonishment created by a Magnet. — Ugarng and the Quicksilver. — Author's narrow Escape from Death. — Geological Character of the Rocks. — Departure for and Arrival at Field Bay. — A Cruise in the iJesctw. — Ar- rival in new Waters. Previous to our anchoring, Captain Allen, Mates Lamb and Gardner, joined us on deck, bringing with them an Esquimaux named Ugarng, and others of his people. Several women were also on board, dressed in the peculiar costume of the West Land natives ; but not until we had dropped anchor could I do more than give a passing glance at these strange-looking figures. The excitement consequent upon arriving in a new place was naturally great on my mind. The land around me — its inhabitants, its rug- ged hills, its mountain tops covered with snow, all belonged to that especial pan of the northern regions connected with the ultimate field of my labors. When, however, the vessel was made station- ary, and the greatest excitement had abated, I could better exam- ine our visitors, and never shall I forget the first impression they made upon me. It has been said by a well-known witty writer, now deceased, when referring to the Esfiuimaux, in an arctic book he was re- viewing, that they are "singular composite beings — a link be- tween Saxons and seals — hybrids, putting the seals' bodies into their own, and then incasing their skins in the seals, thus walk- ing to and fro, a compound formation. A transverse section would discover them to be stratified like a rolly-polly pudding, only, instead of jam and paste, if their laydrs were noted on a per- pendicular scale, thf^y would range after this foshion : first of all, seal — then biped — seal in the centre with biped — and seal again at the bottom. Yet, singular enough, these savages are cheerful, and really seem to have great capacity for enjoyment. Though 100 , AllCTIC RESEARCH EXl'lCDITION. in tho coldest and most comfortless dciis of the earth, they arc ever ou the grin, whatever befa'.ls them. When thoy see a white man and his kniekknaeks, they grin. They grin when they rub their noses with snow, when they blow their fnigers, when they lubricate their hides inside and out with the fat of the seal. Tru- ly, then, as Sterne says, ' rrovidencc, thou art merciful I' " The above description must speak for itself; but, without en- dorsing more than its reference to the good-humor of the lisqui- maux, I must say that, whatever they may be physically and so- cially, they are undoubtedly a kind-hearted, hospitable, and well- disposed race of beings. On my first meeting with them, at the time I am writing of, in Cornelius Grinnell Bay, I was much struck by their peculiar dress and good-natured features. The women especially attracted my attention, and I could not but think of old Ghnmes — " that good old man" — in his long-tailed coat. The dif- ference, however, in the coats of these Esquimaux women and that of old Grimes is that they do not button down Ixforc. In truth, there is no button about these ai'ctic coats. They have a long, neatly-worked flap behind, with a baby pouch on the shoulders, and are slipped over the bead like a frock. But a full descrip- tion of their dress will be given in a chapter devoted entirely to the manners and customs of those singular people. Among the visitors on board when we anchored were a few who will frequently figure in my narrative. Ugarng, who has been already named, was a very prominent character, and it seems to me well to give some account of him and his family, especially as the history of most all the Innuits I met is so full of strange adventure, and so indicative of their peculiar customs, that it can not fail to be interesting. The particulars were gathered only at intervals long after my first acquaintance with the pai'ties. At the time of which I write there lived in the neighborhood of my explorations a very aged and singular woman called Oo- ki-jox-y Ni-noo. This patriarchal dame was born on an island named An-nan-ne-toon, situated on the north side of Hudson's Strait, and when I first saw her I believe she could not have been less than one hundred years old. She was an important personage among her people, and, as the reader will find, proved of much service to me from the knowledge she had of Innuit tra- ditions. » Now this woman had been married to a man called Pier-lcoo-ne- mC'loon, who had also, at the same time, a second wife, Poor-loong- OO-KI-JOX-Y NI-NOO. 101 wong, sister of Ookijoxy Niiioo. By the second wife he bad three ehiltlreii, witli whom we have nothing to do. Bvit by the former he hud eight sons and daughters, and at length died in a good old age, leaving his other wife to survive all her own chil- dren except the Ugarng already named. The progeny of this old woman was as follows: Ist. A daughter, that died at its birth, owing to an accidental fall previously received by the mother while playii.g ball in the spring. 2d. A daughter, Tuu-ijer-nud-luon, who grew up to womanhood, a large, strong woman. She married a Piin-ma-iii,'' or chief, who was eousidered a very smart Innuit. After many years she had by him two children, and at the birth of the latter she died. The infant was then allowed to die, bccau.se, as was told me, "it was impossible to take care of it ;" and two or three days afterward the husband also died. With regard to this woman, it was con- sidered among the Innuits impossible to tell which looked oldest, her mother or herself. 3d. A daughter, called Noo-lccr-picr-ung, who was born not fjir from Newton's Fiord, in Frobisher Bay. She married a man named Oo-ijnmj, and these were the parents o{ E-hier-hinij, a per- son who will often appear as a very important character in my narrative. The mother died about 1852. Ath. A son, Nviv-iver-kirr-tivff, who married, first, a cousin of Ebierbing's wife, the intelligent Tookoolito, by which cousin he had a boy; secondly, a woman called E-ker-too-kong ("Polly," as we named her), by whom he had many children, who all grew very fast and fat, but died young. He died before his wife, and she then married a fine, bold, and — to white persons as well as his own people — most kindly-disposed, humane man, christened by us "Bob" — his Innuit name, King-ivat-che-ung. The wife was a half-sistor to another good but afflicted man, called Pau-loo-yer, or, as I always styled him from his loss of sight, " Blind George." Of him I will speak presently. The fifth child of the old woman was Ugarng^ whom I shall bring forward in a moment. The sixth was a daughter, An-ner-sumg, who married Mik-e- lung. They had two or three children, but one of them, E-ter- loong, a little boy, cross-eyed, was almost always by his grand- mother's side, and was evidently regarded by her as a pet. The seventh child was also a daughter, Kood-loo-toon, who mar- 102 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. ried a brother of one " Chummy" (a man that visited the Spates in 1861-2). By him she had two children ; one died young, and the other is now living and married. The eighth and last child was another daughter, Oo-yar-ou-ye- ring, who married and had two children, a boy and girl. The latter was named Oo-kood-lear, and I was well acquainted with her. These were the children and grandchildren of old Oo-ki-jox-y Ni-noo. Now let me turn to the account 'of Ufjarmj. This man was born at or near Newton's Fiord, in Frobisher Bay, and was about 50 or 55 years old. From his early days he displayed great qualities as a daring and successful hunter. Many of his well-attested exploits border on the incredible, so marvel- ous did they seem. Not a few, possibly, I shall be able to relate farther on. Perhaps, however, not among the least of them may be considered the fact that he had had no less than thirteen wives ; and, at the period I formed his acquaintance, had three living with him. His first wife, Akchur-c-7jou, he left, long before she died, because she bore him no children ; his second, Oo-soo-kong, gave him a son and daughter; both, with herself, dead. The third wife was alive, but left at Padley. Afterward she had two children by another man. The fourth also had two children by another man; the fifth hung herself after giving him a daughter, now 14 years old. The sixth — still alive, and related to Tookoo- lito — had no children ; the seventh was Kun-ni-u, whom I shall frequently name. She likewise had no children up to the time of my last seeing her; the eighth was Kou-nimg, who had two children by another man — the children now grown up and mar- ried. The ninth was KoJc-kong, or Pun-nie, his present second wife, but with no children ; the tenth was Ak-chuk-er-zJmn, who, however, left him and went to live with Kooperneung (" Charley"), a man I often afterward employed. The eleventh wife of Ugarng was Nihu-jar (" PolbJ^), by whom he had a child called Mcnoun, about three years old when I last saw it. Nilcvjar died while I was up thero. She had been the wife of Blind George, already mentioned, but left him a few years after he became blind. Ugarng was a remarkably intelligent man and a very good mechanic. He had several excellent traits of character, besides s»me not at all commendable. In 1854-5 he was on a visit to the States, and among his remi- niscences of that visit he said about New York, "G — d — ! too UGARNG.— "BLIND GEORGE."— KOK-ER-JAB-IN. 103 much horse — too much house — too much white people. Women? ah I women great many — good !" I now bring forward another man, already mentioned, Pau-loo- yer, or "Blind George." Of his parentage there is but little known, even by himself, except that his mother hung herself. He was born about 1819, and when young the Innuits took care of him. He grew up and became one of the first Esquimaux of his place. He was an excellent pilot, greatly attached to Ameri- cans, and very desirous of learning their language. He married the Nik-u-jar already spoken of, and by her had three children. The first was born in the spring of , and had black spots cov- ered with hair on its body. It died before six months old. In 1852-3 he became blind through an epidemic that took off very many of the natives. His second child also died ; and the third, born in 1856, was an interesting girl called Koo-1coo-ye)\ Nikujar continued with her poor blind husband for five years after his affliction, and they were always attentive and kind to each other. But, as he was unable to work, she accepted the of- fer of Ugarng to become his principal or family, that is, household wife. She took with her the little girl Kcokooyer, and Ugarng became partial to it, and as he was a bold, successful hunter, gen- erally contrived to provide for all his household, and even many more, without stint. "George," though greatly attached to his child, knew it was for her advantage to be with her mother, and thus allowed her to go, though occasionally seeking for her com- pany with him. I shall frequently speak of this afflicted Innuit in my narrative, and therefore have mentioned these particulars. Another person to be referred to here is Kok-er-jab-in, the wid- ow of Kud-la-go. She was born at Kar-mo-wong, on north side of Hudson's Straits, probably about the year 1814. She had had three husbands, the first being a tall, stout man, called Koo-choo-ar- chu ("Sampson"), by whom she had one son, Ning-u-ar-jnng. But this husband she left because he added another woman to his household. Her second husband was An-you-kar-ping, a fine, powerful man. He was lost by the upsetting of his ki-a.* When the ki-a was found it was broken into fragments, and it is thought by the Innuits that he had attacked a hooded seal,, which in re- * The Greenland term for a boat or canoe containing one man is Ky-ack, but among the Innuits I was acquainted with Ki-a is the word, and such I henceforth use. 104: ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. turn, ferociously attacked and destroyed him and his. boat. By this husband she had one son, often mentioned in my journal as " Captain." Iler third husband was Kudlago, who had also been previously married to a woman named Ne-ve-chad-loo, by whom two daughters, Kok-er-zhun and Kim-mi-loo, were born to him. The first of these was a pretty young woman, aged twenty-three, and married to Shi-mer-ar-chu ("Johnny Bull"), who was always ex- ceedingly jealous of her. Kimmiloo was an interesting girl of about sixteen years old. By Kok-er-jab-in no children were born. She and her third husband did not get on happily together. On one occasion this woman was nearly dead from a severe dropsical complaint. The angeko was then called in, and his wife's brother undertook to perform an operation for her cure. This he did in the following manner: Ebierbing held Kokerjabin while the op- erator, with a sort of lancet having a blade three inches long, stabbed her quickly and forcibly in the abdomen. Water poured forth copiously and soon after this she recovered. At the time of my first arrival among these Innuits, several of them were in different places hunting and fishing; but I afterward became so well acquainted with them, and was on such familiar terms, that they and others I shall introduce seemed almost of my own family. But I will now proceed with my own personal narrative. In the afternoon, accompanied by Sterry, Gardiner, and Lamb, I went on shore. There I visited several of the natives in their tuples — summer skin-tents. The honesty of this people is remarkable. I noticed on the beach coal, wood, four tubs of whale-line, tar, oil-casks, mincing machine, coils of rope, trying kettles, harpoons, lances, etc., all left here since the previous fall, and yet as safe as on board the ship ! Another trait of their character, however, is not at all commend- able. One of the first things attracting my attention, close to the tents, was the skeleton of an Innuit, or Esquimaux woman, just as she had died some three years before ! She had been sick, and was left to take care of herself. The remains of her tent — her skin bedding, her stone lamp, and other domestic articles, were still by her side. This inattention to the sick and dead is a cus- tom of the Esquimaux, and, in another place, I shall' again refer to it. "When I returned on board, Kudlago's wife had just arrived. She had heard on shore of her husband's death, and at once, v/ith DOG BARBEKAIJK. 1()5 her son (the daughter not arriving till next day), hastened to the ship. Sorrowfully, and with tears in her eyes, did the poor Es- quimaux widow, Kok-er-jab-in, cuter our cabin. As she looked at us, and then at the chest where Kudlago had kept his things, and which Captain Budington now opened, the tears flowed fast- er and faster, showing that Nature is as much susceptible of all the softer feelings among these children of the North as with us in the warmer South. But her grief could hardly be controlled when the treasures Kudlago had gathered in the States for her and his little girl were exhibited. She sat herself down upon the chest, and pensively bent her head in deep, unfeigned sorrow; then, after a time, she left the cabin with hev son. The following day I again went on shore for an excursion up the mountains, " Captain," a lad about fifteen years of age, accom- panying me. My dogs had been landed immediately upon our arrival, and now greeted me with much joy. Poor creatures, how they liked once more to bury their shaggy, panting bodies beneath the snow ! They skip, they run, they come and look, as if grate- ful, in my eye, and then bound away again in the wildest exuber- ance of animal spirits. I have before mentioned some particulars of these dogs, and I now relate an anecdote concerning them during our passage across from Greenland. One day, in feeding the dogs, I called the whole of them around me, and gave to each in turn a capelin, or small dried fish. To do this ftiirly, I used to make all the dogs encircle me until every one had received ten of the capelius apiece. Now Barhehrrlc, a very young and shrewd dog, took it into his head that he would play a wl^jte man's trick. So, every time he received his fish, he would back square out, move a iistance of two or three dogs, and force himself in line again, thus receiving double the shave of any other dog. But this joke of Barbekark's bespoke too much of the game many men play upon their fellow-beings, and, as I noticed it, I determined to check his doggish propensities ; still, the cun- ning, and the singular way in which he evidently watched me, in- duced a moment's pause in my intentions. Each dog thankfully took his capelin as his turn came round, but Barbckark, finding his share came twice as often as his companions', appeared to shake his tail twice as thankfully as the others. A twinkle in his eyes, as they caught mine, seemed to say, " Keep dark ; these ignorant fellows don't know the game I'm playing. I am con- 106 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. founded hungry." Seeing my face smiling at bis trick, he now commenced making another change, thus getting three portions to each of the others' one. This was enough, and it was now time for me to reverse tlie order of Barbekark's game by playing a trick upon him. Accordingly, every time I came to him he got no fish ; and although he changed his position rapidly three times, yet he got nothing. Then, if ever there was a picture of disap- I ointed plans — of envy at others' fortune, and sorrow at a sad mis- fortune — it was to be found on that dog's countenance as he watched his companions receiving their allowance. Finding he could not succeed by any change of his position, he withdrew from the circle to where I was, and came to me, crowding his way between my legs, and looked up in my face as if to say, " I have been a very bad dog. Forgive me, and Barbekark will cheat his brother dogs no more. Please, sir, give me my share of capelins." I went the rounds three times more, and let him have the fish, as he had shown himself so sagacious, and so much like a repentant prodigal dog ! This dog Barbekark afterward again made himself remarkably noticed, as I shall have occasion to relate. He shared all my la- bors with me, and was here as my companion in the States, until he died a few months back. I now return to an account of my excursion on shore. The day was bright and lovely when I ascended the mount- ain. Beautiful crimson snow lay about by the side of large patch- es of the purer white, and as I traveled on, my heart felt as light and buoyant as the air I breathed. The scenery was grand and enchanting. Two or three lakes were passed, one of them half a mile long by the same in width, with its waters at a t^perature of 38°, and as clear as crystal, so that the bottom could be dis- tinctly'' seen. It had depp snow-banks all around it, and yet, to my surprise, musquitoes were floating on and over its surface, breeding by myriads. Some beautiful falls were situated here, walled in by huge mountains and their fragments. Many of these were enormous rocks, apparently capable of being easily set in motion by a man's power with a crowbar, so delicately were they poised upon each other. The frozen waters of winter have been doing wondrous work in throwing down these mountains. If water can find a crack in rocks, they are sure to be broken asunder. The inventions of men give them easy power to split rocks MOUNTAIN EXCURSION.— BEAUTIFUL VIEW. 107 that arc massive and hard. This is done by drilling holes and entering steel wedges, which are acted upon by slight blows. Another way is to arill deep into the rock and charge with gun- powder. But God has //is way of splitting rocks I He uses the little snow and rain-drops. They find their way into every re- cess. Crevicea are at length filled with solid ice. They arc en- larged ; chasms now yawn ; another winter, and down from their rude heights the clifFs fall, making the earth 16 quake in her career" ! There were many, very many rocks that would be cast from their places, high up the mountains, on the next spring. A per- son can hardly conceive the quantity of rock that is lifted from its base every season by the freezing of water. Never can I forget the visit I made on this excursion to the stream that runs wildly down the mountain's side, between the first and second lakelets, ncav Kbiv-tuk-ju-a — Clark's Harbor. For one third of a mile the stream was covered with a huge pile of snow. I crossed to the upper part of this with my Esqui- maux boy, and went down t» the stream itself to slake my thirst. I kneeled and drank of the sparkling waters. As I Jooked round before rising, what did I see ? a cave of alabaster ! snow-arch- es, numberless and incomparable ! At a point where several arch- es commenced to spring were pendent finely-formed icicles, from which poured, perpendicular to the earth, unbroken streams of water, having the appearance of inverted columns of crystal sup- porting the arches. The number of these columns was great. Away, far down the cave, through which the stream passed, all was dark — dark as Cimmerian darkness. From this I turned my eyes upward. Overhanging my head were pinnacled mountains 1000 feet above me. Far as the eye could see they extended. On my still bended knees, I thanked God that I lived to behold how manifold and wonderful was the world's creation. None but God and that untutored Esquimaux saw me there, amid the roar of that mountain waterfall, offering up this, my heart's prayer ! While there I gave the dogs some dinner (capelins), and then had my own along with the Esquimaux. A good appetite made me relish the sea-biscuit and Cincinnati pork, and then, after rest- ing a while, I began the return journey. I had ascended to a height of about 1500 feet above the sea, and two miles from the beach, making a collection of various geological and other speci- 108 AUCTIC llESEAUCII EXPEDITION. mons; but these latter I unfortunately lost. On my way down, ii good snow-slide, for about a quarter of a mile, on an anj^le of 50°, carried me swiftly on, and, in due time, I got back to the tents, where a score of Esquimaux at once kindly greeted mi . Away from all the rest, seated alone among the rocks, I saw Kud- lago'^s widow, weeping for the loss she had sustained. Her son at once went and tried to console her, but she would not be comfort- ed, and her i^ricf was allowed to have vent unrestrained. The next day we had for dinner salmon, venison, and bear- meat! It was then I took my first lesson in eating the latter. I found it passable, with a taste somewhat akin to lamp-oil, but yet, on the whole, good. A few days afterward I made another excursion ; and as I pass- ed on my way up the mountain steeps, flowers greeted me at ev- ery step I took, lifting their beautiful faces from behind the gray old rocks over which I was passing. At length I reached a height beyond which I could mount no farther. Under the friendly shelter of a projecting cliff, I sat myself down amid the most luxurious bed of sorrel that I ever saw. I made a good feast upon it, and -in ten minutes I could have gathered a bushel, it was so plentiful. While here I had a look around. What a magnificent picture was before me! The bold mountains across the bay, witli higher snow-capped ones behind them; the waterfall of 500 feet; the George Ilenrij^ the Rescue, and Black Eagle, lying at anchor be- neath the shadow of those mountains, and the Esquimaux village low at my feet, was an admirable subject for a sketch. I seized my pencil, but paper I had left behind. Still I was not to be balked. I had a new clay pipe in my mouth. I took this pipe and inspected the bowl. A little fancy-line ran down its centre opposite the stem. This line would serve to represent the dashing, foaming waterfall before me; the plain surface on each side would do for the sketch. This I made ; and such as it then was is bere presented to the reader, even as I hoped I might be able to do, under the title of the " Pipe Sketch." After this I gathered a bouquet of flowers, some geological specimens, and returned. On my way I agaih met Kudlago's widow and another Esqui- maux woman. As we passed a place where some tents had for- merly stood, Koher-jah-in called my attention, with tears in her eyes, to the spot where her husband had his tent when he bade AMERICANIZING KIMMILOO. 109 her adieu on liia visit to the States in 1859. She lifted up a por- lion of ibo back-bone of a whale which was bleaching near by, and VIVE BKETOII — OLAKK'H IIARIIOlt. said it was of one Kudlago had killed. Ilcr tone, her manner as she spoke, was truly afTccting, and I have no doubt she felt deep- ly the loss she had sustained. On August 11th, among the Esquimaux arrivals was Kudla- go's idol — a pretty little girl. She looked sad for the loss of her dear father. But how her eyes sparkled in the afternoon when several things were produced that her father had carefully gath- ered for her! The account of her first arrival I find in my jour- nal as follows: "Kimmiloo has just been Amcwcanized. Captain B 's good wife had made and sent to her a pretty red dress — a neck- tie, mittens, belt, etc. " Mv. Rogers and I, at a suggestion from me, thought it best to commence the change of nationality with soap and water. The process was slow, that of arriving to the beautiful little girl, whom we at length found, though decply-ind^eddcd layer after layer in dirt. Then came the task of making her toilet. With '/ veri/ coarse comh I commenced to disentangle her hair. She had but little that was long, the back part from behind her ears hav- ing been cut short oft' on account of severe pains in lier head. How patiently she submitted to worse than the curry-comb proc- ess I had to use! This was the first time in her life that a comb iiad been put to her head. Her hair was filled with moss, seal. 110 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. and reindeer hairs, and many other things — too numerous to call them all by name. Poor thing I yet she was fat and beautiful — the very picture of health. Her cheeks were as red as the blown rose. Nature's vermilion was upon them. " A full hour was I before getting that child's hair so that I could draw the coarse end of a coarse comb through it ! At last that job was completed. Ilcr little fingers quickly braided a tag of hair on each side of her head. Then I gave her two brass rings (which is the fashion among the Esquimaux women) througlj which to draw the hair. The skin trowsers and coat were thrown off, and the red dress put on." Many Esquimaux now visited us, and from them I tried to ob- tain all the information I could as to my intended journey to- ward King William's Land. I also discussed the question with Captain Allen, of the lilack Eagle, who I soon found well capable and willing to advise me. It was, however, too late in the season to attempt comincnchuj the journey then, and this all of those with whom I conversed, Esquimaux and white men, told me. 1 had therefore to wait, and meanwhile make myself well accustomed to the sort of life I should have to endure while actually prose- cuting my undertaking. A day or two afterward I was showing Kimmiloo, Ookoodlear, and Shookok (pretty little Esquimaux girls) the pictorial illustra- tions in a number of the Family Bible, when " Blind George" came on board. When I asked him his name, he said, in Esqui- maux, "George — poor blind George, as Americans call me." " What is your Innuit name ?" said 1. " Pau-loo-yer," was the response ; and then immediately added, " What is yours ?" I told him, and after repeating it several times till he had pronounced it correctly, he was satisfied. I explained that the prefix " Mr." to the "Hall," which I had casually given, was an address ap- plied to men ; whereupon, soon afterward meeting the steward and blacksmith, and hearing them called by those terms, he at once said " Mr. Steward — Mr. Blacksmith." I tried to explain the difference to him, and it was not long before he understood me. lie was quick to perceive mistakes, and, when he saw an error of his own, had a hearty laugh over it. He made all his clothes — sealskins; and the way he threaded his needle was most amusing and singular. He took the eye end of a needle between his teeth, bringing the needle into proper position, and then placed it on his tongue near the end. He next brought the end of his BLIND GEOUGE AND THE MAGNET, HI thread toward tho cyo of his needle, and, after several trials, the thread was finally drawn through the eye by his very sensitive tongue. lie then grasped with his lips and teeth the end of the thread, and thus the needle was threaded! I have seen "Blind George" thus thread his needle, time and again, in ten seconds! Wishing to test his quality as a tailor, I gave him one of my coats to mend in tho sleeve. It was full of rents, but to only one did I call his attention. I left him at his work ; and being mysell' afterward busy at something else, I had forgotten him. When I again went to him where he was generally seated in tiie main cabin, he had every break mended, and all his work ivell done! I took out my little magnet and put it into his hands. He passed it through and through his fingers, and then I placed the armature upon it. This was a mystery to him. The Esquimaux exclamations that escaped his lips were numerous and amusing. I then took the armature and gave him a sewing-needle, bringing it and tho magnet together. This was also wondrous to him. It was many minutes before he became satisfied it was really so. lie would pull one end of the needle off the magnet, and when he let go it would fly back. The approach of an armature to a mag- net, both in his hands, also greatly surprised him. As they came near and he felt the attractive power, he instantly threw them aside, and it was some time before I could get him to make anoth- er trial. Still more careful was he the second time. The contact was at last made, and made quick as lightning, but just as quick did he drop the two. Finding, however, that he was not injured, and that the little girls were enjoying a hearty laugh at his ex- pense — they having before tried it — he at last succeeded. I next tried him with a paper of needles, desiring him to bring the miig- net near them. He did so, but at the cost of my time and pa- tience, as I had to pick them up from all parts of the cabin. On discovering that the needles had sprung from his hand, he acted as if smitten by a thunderbolt, throwing needles, magnet, and all helter-skelter away ! and still more, he at once declared I was an An-ge-ko ! At this time Ugarng was often on board the ship, and one day I was much amused at his vain attempts to pick up some mercu- ry which I had out upon a sheet of white paper. The metal as- sumed a globular shape, and looked precisely like shot made of tin. Now the mercury thus presented to his view seemed to be quite beyond his comprehension. Generally, an Esquimaux is 112 ARCTIC KESKAUCH EXl'KUITION. stoical under nil circumstances, no matter how startling they may be, but hero was something that completely upset his cpuuiimity. After nearly half an hour's attempt to understand the lively sub- stance betbro him, and to grasp it, he gave up, and also lost his tein[)er, lie burst out in some broken words, like oaths he had heard on board shij), declaring the d — 1 was in it, and nothing else. A short time after our arrival at this anchorage I had a nanow escape of my life. It was most providential. No other arm but the Almiglity's could have shielded me from so imminent danger as that to which I had been exposed. In the afternoon I went down seaward for the purpose of examining some rocks. I had \,ith mo my revolver, pencil, and portfolio. The stratification of these rocks was very remarkable, and for several rods I saw a quart/2 vein running as straight as a line N.N.W. and 8.S.E. Its dip was G0°, and in thickness one and a half to two inches. Ev- ery where around, the fallen ruins of mountains stared me in the face. I was perfectly astonished at the rapidity with which huge rocks had evidently been rent to pieces. I also saw, standing by themselves, square pillars of stone, tiie strata of which were com- pletely separated, so that I could take them off one by one, as leaves of paper. Some were an inch, half an inch, two inches, and others six inches thick. Anxious to obtain some specimens, I was engaged, with my knife, digging out some quartz and gold- like metal, slightly bedded in a fresh -broken rock before me, when, as I leaned forward, the revolver fell from my belt, and in- stantly exploded close to my liand and face ! For the moment I thought myself dangerously wounded, so great was the pain I ex- perienced in my hand and forehead ; but the next instant I ascer- tained that the ball had just cleared me, merely forcing the pow- der into my hand, forehead, and round my right eye. It was a narrow escape, and a warning thereafter to be more careful how I left the hammer of any gmi or pistol I had about mo. The rocks about here were indeed very r(>niarkable. One pile consisted entirely of mica, quartz, and feldsj)ar; and the nearest approach I can give to its appearance is to let the imagination conceive that the feldspar was in a slate lik^ P"tty, and worked up into various uncouth figures, the spaces between each filled up with mica and quartz. Then would there be an appearance sim- ilar to what I observed on these rocks, only that ages and ages should be added to cut out deeply the mica and quartz, leaving the pCire quartz veins almost unaflectcd. STEUUY'S TOWER. 113 On tlio 14th of August tlie brig Gmrgiana, belonging to the same owners as the (Jwnjn JJcnry, arrived from some other whal- ing-ground. Thus four vessels were now near each other, the Black Euijle, Oeoryiana, liesciie, and our own ; and a very sociable and agreeable time was spent, during leisure hours, in visiting each other. But none of us were unnecessarily idle. Prepara- tions had to be made for the coming winter, and for whalc-fishing while the season yet lasted. The Black Eagle and Oeorglana had their own plans, but that of the George Ilcnry was to visit another and smaller bay on the south side of this inlet. Meanwhile Cap- tain Budington had erected a stone and turf house for the benefit of his boats' crews, when, as was intended, some of the men should be stationed there " to fish." The roof was made from timber, with canvas well coated with tar over all. On the 16th wo sailed for Nu-gum-mi-ukc, the intended win- ter quarters of the Oeorge Henry and Rescue. As we left the bay — which I have named after my kind friend, Cornelius Grinnell — we passed several prominent places, and among them Sterry's Tower. The following is a sketch of it: BTl.lUiV'a TOWBB. The next day, in company with many of the natives, we arrived H 114 ARCTIC IIE8KAUCII EXrEDITION. at Nu-gum-rni-uko (u bay that I named after Cyrua W. Field, one of the promotera of my expedition). The harbor wo entered was hard to find, but it waa thought to bo jjorfectly aafo. Soon after- ward the ahij) and her erew mado ready for whaling; but for my- self, I dctermiiied upon mixing unreservedly with the natives, ind for this purj)oao tried to secure Ugarng as a guide and com- panion. I presented^ him with a beautiful ivory-handled knife, given to mo by " Wayne & Son," of Cincinnati, hoping this would lead to good reaults. IIo was much pleased with it, and said, in his own tongue, kuoy-en-na-mik (I thank you). Ugarng'a wives were really good-looking, and capital workers, chewing more seal, reindeer, and walrus akina for boota and mit- tens than any other women of the country. This chewing proc- ess will be described at another time; but I may here observe that it is one of the principal modes of making the skins pliable, and changing them into any doaired form. It ia a labor always performed by females, never by men. The Innuit women also washed clothes, and soon became so proficient that they could do them as well as Americans. One morning I gave my clothes to be washed by a woman called Nukertou, and by the evening she returned the articles to me completed and in good order. Ugarng gave me an excellent pair of native boota, made by one of bis wives, and, in return, 1 presented her with some brass rings, which the women greatly prize for doing up the hair. • Wishing to visit some of the innumerable islands that lay scat- tered about the bay, and also place my dogs on some place best suited for them, where the remains of a whale were found, I took three Esquimaux boys and little Kimmiloo in the boat with me to pull. I accomplished my errand, and, on the return, much en- joyed the sight of my crew, including the girl (all fresh types of the Iron race of the North), smoking with pipe in tl^^ir mouth, and, at the same time, pulling heartily at the oars! On Monday, August 20tli, after tea, the captain, myself. Smith, Sterry, Morgan, and Bailey took a boat, and went out a ducking. The wind was blowing fresh from the northwest, therefore we beat to windward. On the way we killed five ducks — a sport that was exciting enough, though not remunerative, five or six shot hav- ing to be expended in killing one duck. While tacking, I lost my venerable hat — the one I punctured with a pike when rais- ing it high in the air on top of the first iceberg I visited. On the 21st of August, at 7 A.M., the Rescue was got under A CHUIHK IN THE RK8CUK. 115 wny for t\w purpose of taking a purty of us over to an inlet on tlie opposite side of Field Hay. It was intended by the eaptuin to exurnino this and other plaees to see their availability fur fish- ing depots, and I gladly took tbo opportunity of accompanying him. While heaving up anchor, an incident occurred that served well to illustrate the character of the Innuit Uijarvij. His third wife, Kun-ni-u^ with the captain and myself, were at the windlass brake, and it was quite an amusing sight to behold us. Pres- ently wo hnd to stop for a moment, and, on commencing again, Kurmiu could not quickly lay hold; whereupon her husband, who was standing by, looking on with a sort of dignity, as if he were lord of all ho surveyed, at onco ordered her to go ahead ; and when she grasped the brake, ho turned and strutted about the deck in quite an independent manner. Two boats had to tow us out of the harbor, owing to there be- ing no wind, and we piussed through a channel between two small islands that was probably never navigated before. One man went aloft to con the way, and I stood on the Ifew to watch for rocks under water. Several I saw far down — some at five and ten fathoms deep, and looking white and yawning; but they were harmless, even had they been much iinarer the surface, for the Jiescue only drew eight feet water. At 8 A.M. a light breeze filled the sails, and, taking up our boats, away we went across the waters of the bay. A course nearly due south was steered, somewhat westerly of Bear Sound, and in due time we approached the opposite shores, where some wild and rocky, but magnificent scenery was presented to our view. At 2 P.M. we turned into one of three or four entrances that led, by a safe channel, into a long and beautiful bay. On either side of us were towering mountains, one especially of a bold and lofty character, with its peak looking down majestically into the waters below. The breeze had now somewhat freshened from the N.E., and was sending us along full five knots an hour. Great was the ex- citement; most exhilarating the whole scene. We were in wa- ters quite new to us, and approaching Frobisher Sfraits — then, at least, so believed by me. Our lady-Esquimaux pilot, Kunniu, guided us safely on, but care was also needed ; Morgan, therefore, went aloft to look out, and I again took my place on the bowsprit end. Occasionally a huge while^ old rock peered up its head, as 116 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. if to ask, Who were wo that thus disturbed tho usual quietude of the pkxcc, and unsettled tho poaco that had reigned during t\w world's ago ? But no interruption to our {)rogrcss was made. We went on and on, creating tho moat joyous emotions in my breast as we proceeded. My heart leaped within mo as the vessel bo"ndcd forward. I had taken my glass in hand and cast my eye to tho south- west. There I could see the extent of tho bay was limited by a very low coast, but beyond it wero tho high, bold mountains of Meia Incognita, across the olden " Straits" — so termed — of Martin Frobisher. Though in tho blue melting distance, and some fifty miles oiF, yet they seemed like giants close by. Then, too, the lofty hills of rock on either side of us, with tho sun-glado, like u pathway of dazzling gold, ahead, made tho picture beautiful and exciting in tho extreme. It was my first visit and approach to tho scenes of Frobisher's discoveries, and well might I bo excused for the joyousncss of my heart on tho occasion. At length the schooner carried us to tho termination of the bay, and in a few nBhments more we had safely anchored in a good spot, having four and a half fathoms' depth at low water. FIRST VISIT TO FUOBISHEH BAY. II7 CHAPTER VI. First Visit to Frobisher Bay. — "Mota Incognita." — Fossils. — Koo-jcsso and his Family. — Old Artarliparu. — Tlie beautiful Kolt-er-zhun. — Sliinninf; Duclcs. — Es- (luimnux Food. — Native Mode of Slcc]iing. — Innuit Ilcad-ornamunts. — Return to the Siiip. — Excursion on Shore. — White Man's Grave. — E8(iuiniuux Grave. — Chart made by Koojohsc. — Innuit Sl«ill in Geography. — Aurora Burcalis. — Vis- ited l)y NunilKirs of the Natives. — Kiiill of tlic Women at Work. — Trial of tlie Ex- ]>cdition Boat. — Journey on Laud. — Annawa. — Ancient Dwellings of the Innuits. — A Mountain I'oss.— Old Mother Tc-ta-to. — Puto and the White Child. — \Vhale captured. — An exciting Scene. — Groat Feast for the Natives. — Author's first Trial at raw Whale-meat. — Custom and ]|pication alone prevents the Enjoy- ment of raw Food. — Discovery of a Frobisher Relic. It was half past four o'clock, August 2l8t, when we dropped anchor in this beautiful inlet, which I name after Richard II. Chapell, of New London, Connecticut. We then had a hurried tea, and immediately afterward took a boat and went on shore. Our party consisted of the captain, Mates Gardiner and Lamb, Morgan and Bailey, besides myself Four Esquimaux — two of them being Ugarng and his wife Kun-ni-u — also accompanied us. On getting ashore we found that the neck of land dividing the waters just left from those of Frobisher "Straits" was less than a mile in breadth, and so low that, except in one part where a ridge of rocks occurred, it could not be more than a few feet above the sea, and possibly covered at high tides. Portions of this isthmus were sandy, and the rest full of stones, rocks, and several specimens of shale, many of which I eagerly collected. On one plat of sand we observed some foot-tracks, which Ugarng stated to be of reindeer, though such an opinion seemed to me ridiculous from the appearance before us, and so the event proved on the tollowing day, when we encountered some Esquimaux who had been here. On arriving at the ridge of rocks, which I call "Morgan's Hill," and which overlooked the whole locality around, I paused a mo- ment to gaze upon the scene before my eye. There, facing me, was the celebrated " Strait" — so called — of Frobi-sher, and beyond it in the distance Meta Incognita* — thus named by Queen Eliza- ♦ " Meta Inco(]mta" embraced both sides of " Frobisher Straits," and, in fact, was meant to include the whole of his discoveries. 118 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. betb, but termed Kingaite by the Esquimaux. Two hundred and eighty-two years previously, in that very month of August, thi; great English navigator, then on his third voyage, was sailing on the waters now within my view, and, after many perils from storms, fogs, and floating ice, he and part of his original fleet (which consisted of fifteen vessels) assembled in " Countess of Warwick's Sound," which I supposed to be not far off. As I gazed, how I longed to be exploring it, then hopefully anticipating it would prove the highway to my ultimate destination. King William's Land. But such was not to be. Disappointment is the lot of all men. Mine afterward proved great ; and yet I have reason to be thankful for what I afterward accomjilishcd. I looked long and earnestly. The land on the opposite side of the " Straits" was clear be^jjle me, though at a distance of some forty miles, and it appeared as if a long line of ice or snow top- j)e(l a considerable portion of it. I hastened from the place whereon I stood, and walked to the beach, where the waters of the so-caJled Frobisher Strait washed the shores. There, with spy-glass, I again carefully examined the opposite land. The same appearance presented itself. But not till some months aft- erward, when exploring up the "Straits," did I have positive proof that what I now saw was really an enormous and magnifi- cent glacier, w-xich, when I visited it, I called after the name of Henry Grinnell. Continuing with my glass to trace the land westerly, it seemed to me that the mountains in that direction united with the land on which I stood, and if so, no "strait" existed. But, as refrac- tion at first was going on, I fancied that I might be deceived. A longer look, however, made me still feel doubtful ;* and while I stood charmed and spcU-bound by the picture before me, a crowd of strange thoughts filled my soul as I reflected upon my own po- sition there, and remembered the history of those early voyages made by Frobisher and his companions. But I had not much time to ponder. The party was awaiting me, and I had to return. On my way back I found many other specimens of fossils, a quantity of which I secured; and as I was well loaded, Kunniu, Ugarng's wife, offered to assist me in carrying them. The hood of her long-tailed coat was widely opened to receive my load. Some fifty pounds' weight of rock specimens, etc., were placed in * A week later, as will be seen, six intelligent Esquimaux positively assured roe that this was a bay, and not a " strait '' THE ESQUIMAUX BOAKUING«HE RESCUE. 121 this convenient receptacle, now answering the purpose of a geolo- gist's saddle-bag ; another time, an Esquimaux lady's bonnet or pouch ; arid, next, a baby-house ! One of the limestones, on being broken in two, exposed to view an imbedded mineral the size and shape of a duck-shot. I tried to cut it with my knife, but it was hard as steel ; and no efifl||t was made upon it except by scraping off the oxyd, which then left displayed something like bri^ ht iron. Unfortunately, I afterward lost this specimen by droi'.piri^ it in the ship's hold. We got on board the Rescue about nine o'clock, and haa a very pleasant evening in the cabin. The next morning we were again on our way toward the George Henry. As we passed out of the bay, taking another channel, it fell calm, and two boats' crews were ordered ahead to tow. There was a strong tide running, and right in the channel some rocks were seen just below water. It was too late to alter the schooner's course, and, though every effort was made to get clear, yet we should have been left upon those rocks had it not been for the swell of the sea and a good pull at the oars carrying us right over them ! In the afternoon, while still towing, three ki-as, followed by oo-mi-ens (family boats of the natives) filled with women and men, approached. On the present occasion, a highly-intelligent Innuit, Koojcsse by name, was boat-stecrer of one, while his family and other Esquimaux, with all of their connections, their tents, cook- ing utensils, etc., accompanied him. As soon as they reached the Rescue, all came on board, Koojessc having with him one of the finest Esquimaux dogs I had seen. More dogs, deerskins, walrus heads and tusks, with abundance of game, such as ducks, etc., were with the party. Among the number now arrived was Kudlagd's eldest daugh- ter, Kok-er-zhun, a truly fair and beautiful young woman, already married to a young man called Shi-vier-ar-chu, otherwise Johnny Bull. She came alongside full of hope and happiness, expecting to hear of, and perhaps to meet her father. Both herself and Tunukdei'lien, the wife of Koojessc, delayed approaching until they had made a change of dress, and then, when ready, on deck they came. But, alas 1 how sad was the blow she had to receive ! See- ing Kunniu, Ugarng's wife, whom she knew, the question was put to her, '■^ Nou-ti-ma wong-a a-td-td?" — Where is my father? and when Kunniu, in a calm but kindly way, communicated the painful news, it was as if a thunderbolt had riven her heart! That face, 122 ARCTIC#ESEARCH EXPEDITION. a moment before beaming with hope and happiness at the thought of :nceting her father, was instantly changed to an expression of deep woo I Tears coursed down her cheeks, and, though the usu- al calm dignity of Esquimaux nature forbade outcries or noisy lamentation, yet it was evident she m^t acutely felt the sudden calamity. Her Esquimaux friends, anJkdl who knew her father, sympathized greatly with her, as indeedaid we Americans, Ev- ery thing in our power was done to alleviate her distress, but it was long before she got over the shock. In one of the oomiens there were no less than eighteen women and children, an old "patriarch" named Ar-tarhpa-ru, who was crippled in both nether limbs, but blessed with the heaviest beard and mustache yet seen among his people — ten dogs, tents, ein- deer skins in immense number, venison, seal-blubber, ducks, wal- rus heads and tusks, hunting instruments, and, in truth, all the worldly goods of some seven families I Having made fast the oomiens astern, taken the kias on board, hoisted the old man up by a rope, and allowed all the rest to mount as best they could, we soon had our decks crowded with about thirty good-humored natives of all ages and sizes, and of both sexes. It was not long, however, before the female portion were put to work in skinning some of the ducks. While doing so I sat be- side them, and eagerly watclied their operations. They asked me for my knife, and were delighted with the excellent one I lent them. Taking a duc\' and drawing the knife once around the outer joint of each wing and the head, they seized the cut part with their teeth, and stripped the fowl entire ! The ducks were very fat, and most of it adhered to the skin. This caused these daughters of the North to rejoice with each other on the feast of fat skins that awaited them on completing their work ! After all the ducks had been skinned, they were delivered to the cook as fresh provision for tlie ship's company. It was understood that for preparing these ducks the native women were to have the skins as pay, and this was considered ample. A short time after- ward I saw mothers, fathers, sons, and daughters in bed on deck, with their duck-skins in hand, peeling off the " luxurious" flit with their teeth, each now and then giving a peculiar kind of grunt in great satisfaction ! " In bed" among the Esquimaux is to repose in puris naturalihus between reindeer skins with the hair on. Be- ing well enveloped in these heat-retaining skins, they proceeded ^ to eat themselves to sleep ! THE INNUIT AND WHITE MAN'S GKAVES, 123 Most of the fe^.alo portion of those on board had each a really beautiful ornamcit upon their head, bent like a bow, and extend- ing from points just forward and below the ears up over the top of the head. At the apex it was one inch wide, tapering down to half an inch at the extremities, and it looked and glistened in the bright sun like burnished gold. There were two fastenings to this ornament — a string of variously-colored beads going under the chin as a bonnet-tie, also one passing down behind the ears at the back of the neck and head. It struck me that this was not only a beautiful ornament to the Esquimaux women, but would also be to ladies at home. Before Artarkparu came on board he was very anxious to make well secure some drift timber he had found. One piece was a ship's deck-plank, probably a part of the English whaling ves- sel Traveller, wrecked in Bear Sound in 1858. This vessel was about 500 tons, and was lost by getting upon the rocks, when, the tide leaving her high and dry, she rested amidships upon a crag- gy point, and so broke her back. Her anchors, oil tanks, and 150 fathoms of clmin were said to be still lying there. In the cvemng I conversed with Kokerzhuu about her father's death. She was deeply interested at the many particulars I men- tioned, and I was surprised to find her so intelligent and com- paratively accomplished. She was, withal, really handsome, but retiring and ladylike. She understood several words of the En- glish language, and was very solicitous of acquiring more knowl- edge of it. She and her husband were ii'Tted for the night into the cabin, where Mate Gardiner gave them up his berth, and, my wrappers answering for coverlets, they were soon asleep. The ne.'.t morning we arrived at our anchorage, and I soon returned to my quarters on board the George Henry. That evening I landed for a walk, and about half a mile from the beach I found a white man's grave — a mound of sand — at the head of which was an inserij)tion cut upon a raised wood tablet, and reading literally as follows : DIED, ON THE 81 8T JTJLV, IS')?, WILLIAM JAMES, aged 28 years, SEAMAN, r. n. D., ON HOARD THE S. SHIP INNUIT, OF P. II. D., J. II. SUTTER, COMMANDER. % 124 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Dreary was the scene around that solitary grave, the last rest- ing-place of one who was taken away in the prime of life, far from home and all who were dear to him. At the end of each line was rudely engraved a willow branch, a substitute for the cypress, which, in all ages, and in all parts of the civilized world, serves as a memorial of the dead. ^ Strangely enough, after an hour's walk I came across another grave, but this time that of an Esquimaux. The grave was sim- ply a steep ledge of rocks on one side, Oind on the other long stones set up on end. Within this were the bones and skull of the deceased man. At the head was a pile of rude stone cover- ing the utensils that belonged to him when living. Through the openings I saw a powder-flask, a little tin tea-kettle suspended over a blubber lamp, the knives which ho was wont to use, and other trifles, all placed in perfect order. Beside this pile were his seal, walrus, and whaling instruments. The grave was with- out cover, that he might freely roam over the mountains and freely traverse the seas to that world whither he had gone. The grave was situated on an eminence or bluff ovcrlo^ing the bay, islands, and scenery far and near. As I stood byThis grave the setting sun was crimsoning the whole heavens, picturftg to my mind the glory that follows death to those who deserve it. After-inquiries that T made enabled me to ascertain the name of the deceased, which 1 found to be one Al-lo-kee, a man cele- brated in his day as a great hunter, persevering sealer, and daring whaler. On Friday, August 24th, Koojesse made me an excellent chart of Nu-gum-mi-uke, Northumberland Inlet, Bear Sound, and lands adjacent — especially of the so-called Frobisher Strait. He signi- fied his willingness to accompany me next season on my intend- ed expedition, but declined to venture this year. Trade to-day commenced with the natives for whalebone and walrus tusks. Several polar bear skins had already been bartered. On Saturday, 25th of August (1860), had a very interesting, and, to me, important conversation with the intelligent Koojesse^ Ucjarng, and his wife Kunniu. The three of them were great travelers, both the former having been in the United States, and the latter was born at the " King's Cape" of Luke Fox, discov- ered by that navigator in 1631. She had been to the Meta Incog- nita of Frobisher, and all along the north coast of that land, which, by her account (as clearly explained to me), was connected with ^C^^ZX^ C/i? A. Countess of Warwick's Sound B. Bear Sound. C. Field Bay. D. Too-jar-choo-nr, " E. Ok-pun, F. Too-jarn, G. Too-jar-too-ark, . "Resolution Island."* * "Resolution Island" is put down on our charts as one island, though it really consists of several, called by the natives as indicated above. 126 ARCTIC llESEAUCII EXPEDITION. the opposite shores, tlius making Frobisher "Strait" an iiilet or hay. Koojcssc and Uijartnj had also visited the land referred to, and eaeh of them dechucd that tliere was no other water communica- tion to what we call Fox's Channel except through the Hudson's Straits. This I was very desirous of knowing more about; and at my rec^est Koojesso finished drawing his chart of the coasts, bays, auoBlands from Northumberland Inlet to liesoluHon Isl- and, and both sides of the so-called Frobisher Strait to its head. The original of this chart is now in my possession, and it has al- ways astonished me for its remarkable skill and general accuracy of detail. A facsimile of most of it is here shown, reduced to -rVth of its original size. The charts that I possessed of this locality were such as our geographers at that time believed to be correct, and I pointed out to Koojesse the places about which I desired information. I showed him the route I proposed taking when I got up to about longitude 72°, in what I had supposed to be Frobisher Strait, but he and the others stopped me by saying '■^Argi! argif" (No! no !) They then took hold of my hand, moving it around till it connected with "Meta Incognita;" tnen following southeasterly the north coast of this land till arriving at the channel leading into Iludson's Striit, about longitude 66° Wf, and, turning round, went thence up Iludson's Strait continuously on to "King's Cape." Of course the names which we place upon our charts are unknown to the Esquimaux, and, consequently, I have endeav- ored in this work, where possible, to give both together. The knowledge that the Esquimaux possess of the geography of their country is truly wonderful. There is not a part of the coast but what they can well delineate, when once it has been visited by them, or information concerning it obtained from oth- ers. Their memory is remarkably good, and their intellectual powers, in all relating to their native land, its inhabitants, its coar,ts, and interior parts, is of a surprisingly high order. In what they related to me concerning Frobisher Strait there could be no doubt, and at once I felt convinced that no passage existed in that direction. However, this I determined to personally ex- amine at the earliest opportunity. Meanwhile I tried all in my power to persuade Koojesse to go with me, without delay, to King William's Land, but in vain. Earlier in the season he would have gone ; now ^^was too late. I had, therefore, no alternative but inie to wait untiJiK following spring. TRADE WITH THE NATIVES. 127 At midnight there was a fine display of tlio aurora borcalis, or rather aurora uuHtralis, for the direction in which the lights ap- peared waa suut/i, not north of us. The barometer stood at 30.06 ; thermometer, 82° ; wind, moderate N.W., and the sky " clear as a bell." I took on deck two delicate compasses to observe if they would be affected by the lights, but they were not in the least. The display was nuilly beautiful ; the streams darting up like lightning, and passing the zenith. Some banks of light were so thick that the stars behind were obscured, even those of the first magnitude. Tlie following day we had a visit from Artarkparti, who, I find, is brother to Allokee, the man whose gravo^had noticed. Ar- (arkparu had a single bniss button, as an ornament, pendent from his skin coat. The device on it was a bee with expanded wings, and the motto " Vive id vivasy A young man Esquimaux, whom wo called Napoleon, from a resemblance in features to Bonaparte, used to visit us daily, dressed in a blue military coat minus the tail (which bad been completely torn off), and with a row of big brass buttons running over each shoulder and down in front. The device on these but- tons was three cannon on carriages, with a crown for the crest. Another comical sight was a fat Esquimaux woman who ap- peared among us dressed in an old calico curtain put on over her sealskin suit. The number of iiatives now visiting us was very great, but it was made a rule wtat all except a privileged few should leave the ship at 8 P. M. During the day much trade was carried on in bartering for skins, walrus tusks, etc. One pair of tusks measured full twenty-six inches in length. The skull of the walrus is very firm and thick. No rifle-ball would have the least effect on it. I have specimens that will show this. Decidedly the Esquimaux are a happy people. As they crowd- ed our docks, I one day noticed about a dozen women seated and busily engaged at their work. Two were mending one of the boat's sails. Some were chewing oohgook (large seal) skins for soles of kum-ings (native boots), others sewing ; while one was tending a cross baby. This little fellow, by-the-by, was generally as good-humored as the rest, but a piece of raw seal-blubber had disordered him, and hence his troublesome manner. It is rare to find an Esquimaux chj||i but what is very quiet, and only on ex- traordinary occasions will they raise any cries. One Esquimaux lady, whose husband was as dark as half the negroes of the States, 128 AIUTIC UEHEAKCn KXl'EDITION. bad a very pretty aemi-white baby, looking truo American all over 1 <)a tho 29th of August I thouglit it advisable to try my expe- dition boat, with a view to ])repaiing her Ibr tho trip to King William's Laud. Accordingly, uho was brought in from where she was anchored near tho ship, and Captain B -, myself, and Smith entered her for a sail. She was fouri over the seas and through the breakers. Mate Rogers and his uold compan- ion well and nobly did their work. Jn a few moments the boat was under the liescue's projecting bowsprit, and speedily, though requiring exceeding e.ire, Captain Tyson, his crow, and those who had been on board o^ the schooner got into her. A short time more, and all were standing safely on the Gcorf/e Ilenri/s deck. At noon both the stranded ships were pounding very heavily on the rocks, and jumping their anchors in such a manner as to cause the two vessels to move their position more round the isl- and, though in opposite directions. Thus it conf lued through- out all of the 27th, the wind increasing rather than the contrary. But on the following morning the gale abated, and at nine o'clock 144 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. a party of our people managed to get on shore. We found the larboard side of the litscue badly stove, but the Oeorgicma, by be- ing in a much less exposed place, was perfectly tight, and com- paratively uninjured. Ilcr crew soon afterward took possession of her again, and ultimately she was got off the rocks, and once more anchored in deep water. As for the 3vcti(', after a careful examination, it was found she was too fur damaged to be repaired with any means at our com- mand. Accordingly, it was determined to totally abandon her ; and this was put in execution the following day by clearing her hold of all the contents, and saving whatever was valuable of her material. I went on shore to examine what remained of the schooner, and also to look after my expedition boat. I found my boat to- tally wrecked, nothing remaining but the stern-post fast to a three-inch cable. It appeared that during a part of the gale she had been driven high up on the rocks, and though the Gcorffumd's crew endeavored to save her by additional fastenings, her fate was sealed. The tempestuous elements would not allow her to escape, and she was broken to pieces in the fury of the storm. I need not say how much I grieved at the loss of my boat. To me it was irreparable, and for a time I was nearly overcome by the blow ; but I reasoned that all things were for the best in the bands of ^, good Providence, and I therefore bent submissively to His will. The natives who had been on board of the Georgiana were ftn the island when I landed. They had found the sail of my boat, and turned it to account as a shelter, and now were as happy and merry as though nothing unusual had occurred. The Rescue, when I examined her, was high and dry on the rocks, with her bottom stoye in. I mounted her side (her decks were inclining to the shore at an angle of 45°); I entered her cab- in, looked into her hold, and again desqcndcd outside, going un- der and around her. Then, as 1 gazed at her battered hull, griev- ing at the end she had come to, what a number of interesting as- sociations crowded upon my mind. She had been of the "United States' Grinnell Expedition" in search of Sir John Franklin in 1850-1, being the consort of the Advance, in which latter vessel Dr. Kane afterward made that memorable voyage (the second Grinnell Expedition) in search of Franklin in 1853-5. The Res- cuers quondam consort, after having given forth freely of its AUTHOR'S PLANS AFTER LOSING HIS BOAT. 145 planks and timbers for the preservation and warmth of Dr. Kane and his party, was finally given up to the ices of the North which unrelentingly grasped it. The Advance was abandoned Sunday, May 20th, 1855, in Rensselaer Ilarbor, lat. 78° 37' N., and long. 70° 40' W. Five years, four months, and seven days after this occurred the total wreck of the Rescue, in a harbor named after her, situated in lat. 62° 52' K, and long. 64° 44' W., nearly due south of her former consort. After well examining the Rescue, I went to the wreck of Koo- jesse's whale-boat, lying on the windward side of the island. This boat had been fast to the schooner's stern, and, of course, went on the rocks at the same time. She had originally belong- ed to Kudlago, having been given to him in 1858. When Kud- lago left for the States in 1859, he gave the boat to Koojesse to use until his return.* I may add here that an oomien (woman's or family boat) be- longing to the natives went adrift during the storm and became a total wreck. A boat of this kind is of great value to the Esqui- maux, and, when lost, is to them something akin to the loss of a first-class ship to us at home. I must now say a few words concerning myscF. Even in the midst of the howling tempest, when our own safety on board the George Henry was a matter of doubt, my thoughts kept turning to what I should do, now that my expedition boat was lost. JUit it did not take mc long to consider. I was determined that, God willing, notliing should daunt me ; I would persevere if there was the smallest chance to proceed. If one plan failed — if one disas- ter came, then another plan should bo tried, and the disaster rem- edied to the best of my power. Thus, without delay, and while yet the hurricane blasts made the ship tremble beneath us, as the captain and I stood on her deck, I asked him if one of the ship's boats could be spared me to prosecute my voyage to King Wil- liam's Land, now that my own little craft was wrecked. His re- ply, after some consideration, was fovorable; but, when the time approached for my departure, it was found the one that alone could be spared to mc was frail, rotten, and not seaworthy. * Before I close tliis nccount of the Rescue's wreck and the loss of my expedition boat, with the escape of tlic Geon/c Henry, it may bo interesting to mention tliat this hitter vessel did not live through another voyage after iier return to the States in 1862. She was wrecked the IGth day of July, 18G3, on one of the lowv Savage Islands in Hudson's Strait, about 100 miles farther south than Kescuu Ilarbor. The l)articulars will be found in the Appendix (G). K U6 ARCTIC KESEAUCU EXPEDITION. On the 1st of October the Georgiana, having made good her de- fects so far as she could, left the harbor under all sail for Nor- thumberland Inlet to winter. By her I forwarded letters lo friends at home, should she meet, as was expected, with whalers returning to England. EK-KK-I-U-YUN, the white-stone aalmon-bait used by Esquimaux. SPLENDID DISPLAYS OF THE AURORA. 147 CHAPTER VIII. Splendid Displays of the Aurora. — "The World on Fire." — Arrival of Captiiiii Parker in the True-love. — Visit to his Ship. — Niknjar the Pilot. — Anecdotes of Parker's Arctic Exj)ericnces. — First Interview with the Innuits Ehierhitig and Tookoolito. — Their previous Visit to England and Presentation to Royalty. — The Accomplisliments of Tookoolito. — Ecnoolooapik. — A Walk on Shore -Snow- storm. — A natural Causeway. — Fluctuations of the Compass Needle —Tookoo- lito at Work. — She tries to Educate her People. — Her Po v.. u f . Good. — Ad- vantages of a Mission Colony. — Difference of Language among ihe Esquimaux. — CiD'/i'c/ecA'eH, M'Clintock's Interpreter. — Tookoolito rebuking Swearers. For several days now our life was of a very monotonous de- scription, except so far as varied by the visits of Esquimaux, who were frequently on board performing different avocations more or less useful to us. Scrubbing the cabin floor, sewing and dress- ing sealskins, were some of the occupations that engrossed their time. Occasionally the younger members were ready pupils un- der my hand in trying to learn whatever I could teach them of civilized education. But at this time the phenomena of Nature frequently gave me intense delight. The aurora, in all its glorious brilliancy, shone forth on several nights, and often did I linger on deck gazing upon it, with my soul entranced by the sight. It is impossible for me to give a just and full description of the immeasurable beauty and grandeur of such-a scene. All I can attempt to do is to put before the reader my thoughts and sensations at the several times, as recorded in my journal. ^'■Novemher 23, 1860. A few places at six o'clock this evening where the cerulean sky and stars can be seen. While standing on deck near the bow of thc^ vessel, viewing Mars in its meridian passage at this place, all at once a bright, beautiful beam of aurora shot up midway between the star and the moon. The moon — some 39° or 40° cast of Mars — was shining brightly, but above and below it were cirri cumuli clouds. Between the planets all was clear. The aurora beams increased rapidly. They were of prismatic colors to-night, pea-green predominating. Oh that I could pen or pencil the beauty of this display ! The kind of clouds which I have named are the most distant of any. The 148 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. aurora, as it frequently ascended liigh in the heavens, plainly- painted its golden rays upon the face of the clouds, thus proving it was at play between me and them. Blind George, the Esquimaux, was standing by my side. I told him what was going on in the heavens. I said the moon was shining, and the aurora showing off finely at the time. Hq wished, me to place him in position that his face might be upturned toward what I saw and so ad- mired. This I joyfully did. Joyfully do I say? No, no! For, as Paulooyer (Blind George) asked me, I saw that he was possess- ed of an uncontrollable yearning, seeming to me like that of a pinioned eagle, to soar away to the regions of the stars. He sought to tear away the curtains which God, in his own dispensa- tion, had seen fit to place before his eyes, that he might again see the handiwork of Him who made the stars, the world, and all that is therein. " My ecstasy in the beauty of the scene before me was caught up by the spirit of George, thus making him an object worthy of a poet's pen — worthy of lasting remembrance." TUB ArRORA, NOV. 33, 1860. On another occasion, December 3d, I find myself saying, "The aurora commenced its fantastic dances at 6 P.M. It now stretches AUBOBAt DECEMUEB 17, 1860, "THE WORLD ON FIRE." 151 its arch across the heavens from S.E. to W., the whole sontlierly of the vessel. Though not at first so, yet now their base is of prismatic colors. I know of no phenomenon more deeply inter- esting than that which is to be seen hero every fair night in the aurora." Again, on another morning, December 17th, at six o'clock, ] write, " The heavens are beaming with aurora. The appearance of this phenomenon is quite changed from what it has been. Now the aurora shoots up in beams scattered over the whole canopy, all tending to meet at zenith. How multitudinous are the scenes presented in one hour by theauroral This morning the changes are veiy rapid and magnificent. Casting the eye in one direction, I view the instantaneous flash of the aurora shoot- ing up and spreading out its beautiful rays, gliding this way, then returning, swinging to and fro like the pendulum of a mighty clock. I cast my eyes to another point; there instantaneous changes are going on. I close my eyes for a moment ; the scene has changed for another of seemingly greater beauty. In truth, if one were to catch the glowing heavens at each instant now passing, his varied views would number thousands in one hour. Who but God could conceive such infinite scenes of glory ? Who but God execute them, painting the heavens in such gorgeous display ?" At another time the aurora presented a neiv phase, rays shooting athwart the southwestern sky parallel with the horizon. Later still, March 11th, I say: "It seemeth to me as if the very doors of heaven have been opened to-night, so mighty, and l>eaukons, arid viarvelous were the waves of golden light that a few moments ago swept across the 'azure deep,' breaking forth anon into floods of wondrous glory. God made His wonderful works to-night to be remembered. I have witnessed many displays of the aurora since making anchorage in this harbor, a great many of them of surpassing magnificence, yet what I beheld this night crowns them all. I could never have anticipated the realization of such a scene ! " I was not alone enjoying it. Captain Budington and Mate Gardiner were with me, and we all looked on in wondrous yet delighted awe. " The day had been fine, with a moderate wind from the north- west. When the sun went down behind the ridge of mountains limiting the bay, a perfect calm followed, with a sky absolutely 152 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. cloudless. At 4 P.M. there had been seen one solitary and pecul- iar cloud hanging in the heavens to the north about 16° above the horizon. This cloud was a deep dark blue, looking much like the capital letter S. This at last disappeared, and the night set in, still beautiful and mild, with myriads of stars shining with ap- parently greater brilliancy than ever. "I had gone on deck several times to look at the beauteous scene, and at nine o'clock wjis below in my cabin going to bed when the captain hailed mo with the words, ' Come above, Hall, at once! The world is on fike!' "I knew his meaning, and, quick as thought, I redressed my- self, scrambled over several sleeping Innuits close to my berth, and rushed to the companion stairs. In another moment I reach- ed the deck, and as the cabin door swung open, a dazzling, over- powering light, as if the world was really ablaze under the agency of some gorgeously-colored fires, burst upon my startled senses ! How can I describe it ? Again I say, no mortal hand can truth- fully do so. Let me, however, in feeble, broken words, put down ray thoughts at the time, and try to give some faint idea of what I saw. "My first thought was, 'Among the gods there is none like unto Thee, Lord ; neither are there any works like unto Thy works P Then I tried to picture the scene before me. Piles of gc.den light and rainbow light, scattered along the azure vault, ex- tended from behind the western horizon to the zenith ; thence down to the eastern, within a belt of space 20° in width, were the fountains of beams, like fire-threads, that shot with the rapidit}' of lightning hither and thither, upward and athwart the great pathway indicated. No sun, no moon, yet the heavens were a glorious sight, flooded with light. Even ordinary print could have been easily read on deck. "Flooded with rivers of light. Yes, flooded with light; and such light! Light all but inconceivable. The golden hues pre- dominated; but, in rapid succession, ^m?7ia<("c colors leaped forth. " We looked, we SAW, and trembled ; for, even as we gazed, the whole belt of aurora began to be alive with flashes. Then each pile or bank of light became myriads ; some now dropping down the great pathway or belt, others springing up, others leap- ing with lightning flash from one side, while more as quickly passed into the vacated space ; some, twisting themselves into folds, entwining with others like enormous serpents, and all these MOKE OF AUROUAL MAGNIFICENCE. I53 movements as quick as the eye could follow. It seemed as if there was a struggle with these heavenly lights to reach and occu- py the dome above our lieads. Then the whole arch above, be- came crowded. Down, down it came ; nearer and nearer it ap- proached us. Sheets of golden flame, coruscating while leaping from the auroral belt, seemed as if met in their course by some mighty agency that turned them into the colors of the rainbow, each of the seven primary, 3° in width, sheeted out to 21° ; the prismatic bows at right angles with the belt. " While the auroral fires seemed to be descending upon us, one of our number could not help exclaiming, " ' Hark I hark ! such a display I almost as if a warfare was go- ing on among the beauteous lights above — so palpable — so near — seems impossible without noise.' " But no noise accompanied this wondrous display. All was silence. " After we had again descended into our cabin, so strong was the impression of awe left upon us that the captain said to me, " ' Well, during the last eleven years I have spent mostly in these northern regions, I never have seen any thing of the aurora to approach the glorious vivid display just witnessed. And, to tell you the tndh, Friend Uall, / do not care to see the like ever ugahi.'' " That this display was more than ordinarily grand Wcis evi- denced by the testimony of the Innuits, particularly Tookooli- to, who, when she came on board a few days afterward, stated that she had been much struck by its remarkable brilliancy, and that "it had exceeded in beauty and niagnilicence all displays ever before witnessed by her." I would here make the remark that the finest displays of the aurora only last a few moments. Though it may be playing all night, yet it is only now and then that its grandest displays are made. As if marshaling forces, gathering strength, compounding material, it continues on in its silent workings. At length it begins its trembling throes; beau- ty anon shoots out here and there, when all at once the aurora flashes into living hosts of poiodered coruscating rainbows, belting the lieavenly dome with such gorgeous grandeur sometimes that mortals tremble to behold I On October 13th we had an unexpected arrival. A steamed' and a sailing vessel were observed coming up from sea, and in the evening both vessels anchored on the opposite side of Field 154 AUCTIC RESEAUCU EXl'EUITION. Bay. Ill a slicji-t tinio wo ascertained that the strangers were well-known English whalers, being no less than the famous Cap- tain Parker, of the True-love^ and his son, commanding the steam- ship Lady Cetia. They had come from Cornelius Grinnell Bay in less than a day, leaving Captain Allen, of the Black J'At;/h; there. Intelligence of our schooner's wreck had reached them at that place a few days after it had occurred, an Esquimaux and his wife having traveled by hind and carried the news. Directly there was an opportunity I })aid a visit to the new- comers, starting from our ship early in the morning. Ugarng's boat and crew took me there. The party consisted of liimself, his wife Nikujar, and child, Kokcrjabin (Kudlago's widow), Ster- ry, and myself,- besides other Esquimaux. When we were one mile from Look-out Island the sun was lift- ing his bright face from the sea. The whole ridge of mountains, running southeasterly to " Hall's" Island of Frobisher, was in plain sight, covered with white, and as wo o'^proached them, no opening into the harbor where the vesst ' \vere supposed to he could be seen. But Nikujar, being a capital pilot, knowing every channel and inlet within two hundred miles of our anchorage, the steering-oar was given to her; and there, seated upon the logger- head, with her pretty infunt in its hood behind her neck, she steer- ed us correctly to the spot. MIK-U-JAK, TIIK IIOAT HTKEBEB AM) riLDT. rAHKElt AND TIIK "TUUE-LOVE."— NlKUJAli THE PILOT. 155 With a few good strokes of the oars, wc soon entered the snug little cove where the Parkers had taken shelter, in a inuinent or two after passing the steamer wo were standing on the deck of the True-love, most kindly welcomed by' Captain Parker, senior, and shortly afterward by his son, who came on board. I there found "Blind George," who immediately recognized my voice, calling mc by name, and saying, "How do you, Mitter Hall?" and then, without waiting for reply, adding, " Pretty well, I tank you !" I was, indeed, right glad to again meet this noble but afflicted Esquimaux. The four times I had seen him at Cornelius Griiinell Bay caused him to bo much impressed upon my memory, and now, strangely, here he was, and actually in ])resence of Niknjar, who was his former wife, before Ugarng took her away and made her his Ugarng, however, could support the woman, and poor blind CJrorge could not; hence the latter had to submit, and be content with an occasional visit of their oidy child, as an idol which he cherished even more than his own life. Captain Parker soon took me into his cabin, and had an ex- cellent breakfast spread on the table. After this, conversation turned ujjon niany subjects of a most interesting nature. He had brought his ship, guided by an Esquimaux pilot — Ebierbing — from Niountelik, in Northumberland Inlet, to Cornelius Grinnell Bay, througli a channel 128 miles long, and not above one to two miles broad, behind a line of i.slands facing the sea. The steamer towed the sailing ship, as no ves.sel of their size could pass up or down such a channel unless with a fair wind. In the ehanncl the flood tide runs south, while elsewhere it runs north. Ca})tain Parker said the scenery was most magnificent, and there was plenty of salmon, deer, and other game. Altogether it was a trip, as he expressed it, that I would have been delighted with. Among tho many incidents related to me by Captain Parker, one or two may be worth recording here. He said that in I808— i he had been down Prince Begent's Inlet as far as Cape Kater, in company with the Jsahdla, Captain Humphreys, who rescued Sii- John Koss and his companions after their four years' abode in an icy home. Parker had seen Ross's boats while on their way to escape, but supposing them to be the Isabella's, took no especial notice. In Regent's Inlet, he said, there were hundreds of whales between Cape York and Cape Kater. He had caught five off Cape Kater, and twenty -three more between there and Cape 150 AllCTIC IIKSKAIICH KXPKniTION. York. SonlH, imrwlmls, white whales, uml tho wivlruH, woro also in great abniKhuico. Ill) likewise (le.seril)('(l to mo, in a most grnphio manner, the ter- rible storm of 1830 in HaHin's Hay, when tweiily-tvvo ves-sels were wrecked, ami yet his own Hhip eseapeil without tho ulightcst dam- age. One thouHand men had to make good their rctre it upon the ice toward the Danish Hettlemcjits, some 000 miles distant, and all arrived safely with the exception of two, who died from tho ef- fects of spirituous liquors they injudiciously drank. Captain J'arkcr, ai the time I saw him, was sixty-nino years of age, and good, to all appearance, for half a score more in the arc- tie regions, lie had been navigating those northern seas (whal- ing) lor forty-five years, with an interval of about five yeans, when he rested. lie commenced in 1815, and was a connnander in 1820. He had never lost a ship. On the present voyage neither nmi /i(i(/ (t rlironomekr. They depended upon dead reckoning for their longitude. 'J'lieie was a doctor on board, quite a young man, and appa- rently of merit, lie had been one year in Springfield, Ohio. The True-love is well known in arctic history as coimectcd with the late searching i3xpoditions. In 184!) she landed some coals at Cape Hay, in Lanca.ster Sound, as requested by Lady Franklin, who sent them out, that fuel might be depo-sitcd at ev- ery likely .spot where litn' husband and his companions might pos- .sibly visit. This remarkable vessel is 100 years old, and was built in Philadelphia, Pa. I explained to Captain Parker all about my plan.s, and he ex- pressed himself much interested in them, promising to let me have a boat I desired, as an additional one to that I should get from the (nvn/e Jleitnj, and which would be needed to carry my stores. On Captain Parker's invitation I remained to dinner, and then, after a most agreeable visit, returned to the George Henry. In a few days after this both the Parkers suddenly went to sea — as we supposed, driven out of their anchorage by a gale that bad been blowing, and, owing to this, I did not receive the boat promised me, nor were we able to send home the letters that had been prepared. It was about this time I was visited by two Esquimaux, man and wife, who will henceforth often appear in my narrative, and who, together with a child afterward born to them, accompanied EUIKUDINO AND TOOKOOLITO. 157 mo to the RtatoH. The rnati'H nuiiio was Khierbing — otherwiuc culled by us "Joe" — his wile's, Tciokoolilo, or" llaiiliuh." I was itiibrrned that this couple had been taken to England in 1853, ond presented to ^cr majesty Queen Victoria, and that the female was a remarkably intelligent, and what might be called an aceomplished woman. They had remained nearly two years in (Jreat IJritain, and wero every where well received. 1 heard, moreover, that she was the sister of To-lo und Kc-n()o-loo-u-jtik\ both celebrated in their coi itry as great travelers and intelligent men, and the latter well known in Kngland from his vi.sit there in IbHl), and from a menu r of him published by Surgeon Mac- donald, of the ill-fated Fraidvlin Kxpedition. Mbierbing was a good pilot for this coast, and had brought Captain Parker's ship through the channels, as already narrated. At the time of the gale, when my boat and the /ir.scnc. were wnicked, he was up in Northumberland Iidet, and also lost a boat of his own. When I visited Captain Parker "Joe" was not on board, nor did I know much of him until the above i)articulars were furnish' cd to m(>. I was, therefore, naturally an.xious to .sec this couple, and looked forward to our meeting with much hope that it wt)ulil prove not only i)lcasing, but useful in many ways. The first in- terview I had is recorded in my journal as follows: "iVow;m/*rr 2, 18G0. While intently occupied in my cabin, writ- ing, I heard a soft, sweet voice say 'Good morning, sir.' The tone in which it was spoken — musical, lively, and varied — instant- ly told mo that a lady of refinement was there, greeting me. .1 was astonished. Could I be dreaming? Was it a mi.stakc? No! I was wide awake, and writing. But, had a thunder-clap sound- ed on my car, though it was snowing at the time, I could not have been more surprised than I was at the sound of that voice. I raised my head: a lady was indeed before me, and extending an ungloved hand. "Of course, my welcome to such an unexpected visitor in these regions was as befitting as my astonished faculties for the mo- ment could make it. The doorway in which she stood leads from the main cabin into my private room. Directly over this entrance was the skylight, admitting a flood of light, and thus re- vealed to me crinoline, heavy lounces, an attenuated toga, and an immensely expanded ' kiss-me-quick' bonnet, but the features I could not at first make out. " ' Coming events cast their shadows before them.' Ladies are 158 AUCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. events casting lanhra and penumhra along wherever their path- way be, thus bespeaking glory about them constantly. Knowing the philosophy of all this even belbre leaving the States, I imme- diately tried to do honor to my unknpwn visitor. But, on turn- ing her face, who should it be but a lady Esquimaux ! Whence, thought I, came this civilization refinement? But, in a moment more, I was made acquainted with my visitor. She was the Too- koolito I had so much desired to see, and directly I conversed with her she showed herself to be quite an accomplished person. She spoke my own language fluently, and there, seated at my right in the main cabin, 1 had a long and interesting conversa- tion with her. Ebierbing, her husband — a fine, and also intelli- gent-looking man — was introduced to me, and, though not speak- ing English so well as his wife, yet I could talk with him tolera- bly well. From them I gleaned many interesting particulars of their visit to England, and I was gratified to hear that they had actually dined with Prince Albert, who treated them very kindly, and with much consideration. " Ebierbing, in speaking of the queen, said he liked her very much, and she was quite ' pretty.' He also said that Prince Albert was a ' very kind, good man, and he should never forget him.' " The following conversation, as copied from my journal, written at the time, will show the sentiments of Tookoolito on civilizei life. I asked her how she would like to live in England. She re- plied, " I would like very well, I thank you." " Would you like to go to America with me ?" said I. "I would indeed, sir," was the ready reply. In reference to the Queen of England, she said, "I visited her, and liked the appearance of her majesty, and every thing about the palace. Fine place, I assure you, sir." Tookoolito was suffering with a cold, and I noticed that when- ever she coughed she threw her face on one side and held her hand before her lips, the same as any lady of good manners would. Her costume was that of civilization, being a dress with heavy flounces, an elegant toga made of young tuktoo fur deeply fringed, and a bonnet of the style invented on the principle "cover the head by a rosette on its back I" As Tookoolito continued speaking, I could not help admiring the exceeding gracefulness and modesty of her demeanor. Sim- ple and gentle in her way, there was a degree of calm intellectual LOST IN A SNOW-STORM. 159 power about her that more and more astonished me. I felt de- lighted beyonu measure, because of the opportunity it gave me for becoming better acquainted with these people through her means, and I hoped to improve it toward the furtherance of the great object I had in view. After a stay of some duration she went on shore, and the fol- lowing day I visited her and her husband at their tent. She was then in native costume, and it seemed to me that this suited her even better than the other. Some short time after this, I made an excursion by myself to the island on which was situated the Esquimaux "North Star" village. The day became stormy after I had landed in one of the native boats, but I continued my walk, accompanied by the dogs, to a part of the island I wished to visit. On arriving there, I found a sort of natural caiiseivcu/, formed of stones, leading to a smaller islet, and, crossing it, I continued examining the locality for some time. At length the snow-storm increased so much as to compel my return, and I made my way back to the south side of the main island. But now I could hardly see my way. The snow came down so thick that I was fain to take shelter under the lee of some rocks near me, and, while there, I examined my compass to as- certain if I was going right. To my astonishment, I found the course I had pursued was exactly the reverse of the right one. I looked again and again, and yet the needle pointed exactly oppo- site to what I had expected. What was I to do ? retrace my steps ? For a moment I hesitated ; but at length moving on, I was about walking back as I had come, when, on looking at the compass again, I found it just the opposite of what it was before ! Strange, thought I. Surely there must be local attraction in the rocks where I took shelter. But still it made mo anxious, espe- cially as the weather was becoming worse. Indeed, I felt it ver}"- possible I might be lost in the storm, and perhaps have to wander about all the coming night, or be frozen to death by remaining stationary, should the compass play me another trick ; but at last, thanks to my faithful dogs, they actually guided me straight to the village, where 1 arrived without any mishap. The one I entered was Ebierbing's. He himself had gone out, but Tookoolito welcomed me as usual, soon entering into lively and instructive conversation. Two native boys were there at the 160 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. time, and Tookoolito lierself was busy knitting socles for her hus- band! Yes, to my surprise, she was thus engaged, as if she had been in a civilized land and herself civilized, instead of being an Esquimaux in her own native wilds of ice and snow I It was a strange contrast, the sight within that tent and the view without. The latter presented a picture of barrenness and storm ; the former much that tended to the idea of warmth and home. Knitting stockings for her husband! How much of dear home was in that favorite domestic occupation! Then, too, her voice, her words and language, the latter in my own vernacular, were something more than common in that region. I have before said that she was peculiarly pleasing and refined in her style and manners; and now, while sheltering nie beneath her hospitable roof, with the bright lamp before me, the lively prattle of the two boys came in strong contrast to the soft tones of her partly civil- ized tongue as my mind opened to receive all she uttered. What she said, and what my impressions were at the time, will be found in the following extract from my journal : " November l-ith, 1860. Tookoolito, after returning from En- gland five years ago, where she and her winrj-a (husband) spent twenty months, commenced diffusing her accomi)lishments in va- rious ways, to wit, teaching the female portion of the nation, such as desired, to knit, and the various useful things practiced by civ- ilization. In all the places around Northumberland Inlet she has lived, and done what she could to improve her people. A singu- lar fact relative to dressing her hair, keeping licr face and handj cleanly, and wearing civilizalnon dresses — others of her sex, in con- siderable numbers, follow these fashions imported by her. This shows to me what one person like Tookoolito could accomplish in the way of the introduction of schools and churches among this people. To give this woman an education in the States, and subsequent employment in connection with several of our mis- sionaries, would serve to advance a noble and good work. And yet I must state that, unless a vjorhing colony^ or several of them, were established, co-operating in this work, and laws were made by the fundamental power that should be as rigid relative to whal- ers visiting the coasts as those of Denmark to Greenland, all would be as naught. " The working or trading colony would make its government, school, and church institutions self-supporting. Let the plan of Denmark for Greenland be followed. It is a good one, and works well. s THE ESQUIMAUX LANGUAGE.— VARIOUS DIALECTS. 161 " Wliil# in the tent, Tookoolito brought out the book I had given her, and desired to be instructed. She has got so she can spell words of two letters, and pronounce most of them properly. Her progress is praiseworthy. At almost every step of advance- ment, she feels as elated as a triumphant hero in battle. She is far more anxious to learn to read and write than Ebierbing. I feel greater confidence (allowing it were possible to feel so) in the success of my mission since engaging these two natives. They can talk with me in my own vernacular, are both smart, and will be useful each in the department they will be called upon to fill. Tookoolito will especially fill the place of an interpreter, having the capacity for it surpassing Karl Petersen, the Dane, who has been employed as Esquimaux interpreter by various expeditions in search of Sir Jolin Franklin — 1st, by Captain Penny, 1850-1 : 2d, by Dr. Kane, 1853-5 ; 3d, by Captain (now Sir Leopold) M'Clintock, 1857-9. " Tookoolito, I have no doubt, will readily accomplish the dif- ferences in language between the Innuits of Boothia and King William's Land, and that of her own people around Northumber- land Inlet and Davis's Strait. The pronunciation of the same words by communities of Esquimaux living at considerable dis- tances from each other, and having but little intercourse, is so dif- ferent that it is with difliculty they are understood one by the other. I should judge, from the very great difference of the lan- guage as spoken by the Greenlanders and the natives on the west side of Davis's Strait, tVat Petersen was of little lv rvice to M'Clin- tock as an Esquimaux interpreter. This conclusion would be ar- rived at by any one reading the narrative of M'Clintock's inter- views with the natives on King William's Land. " The Greenlanders have a mixed language consisting of Dan- ish and Esquimaux. ****** Even the intercourse of the whalers with the Esquimaux around Northumberland In- let has introduced among them many words that are now in con- stant use. Tookoolito informed me to-day that the words picka- ninny, for infant; cooney, for wife; pussy, for seal; Husky, for Innuit; smoketute, for pipe, and many other words, are not Es- quimaux, though in use among her people. " I now complete the tuple interview. Before I was aware of it, Tookoolito had the ' tea-kettle' over the friendly fire-lamp, and the water boiling. She asked me if I drank tea. Imagine my surprise at this, the question coming from an Esquimaux in an L 162 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Esquimaux tent ! I replied, ' I do ; but you have nc^ tea here, ha?vc you?' Drawing her hand from a little tin box, she display- ed it full of fine-flavored black tea, saying, 'Do you like your tea strong?' Thinking to spare her the use of much of this precious article away up here, far from the land of civilization, I replied, ' I'll take it weak, if you please.' A cup of hot tea was soon be- fore mo — capital tea, and capitally made. Taking from my pocket a sea-biscuit which I had brought from the vessel for my dinner, I shared it with uiy hostess. Seeing she had but one cup, I in- duced her to share with me its contents. There, amid the snows of the North, under an Esquimaux's hospitable tent, in company with Esquimaux, for the first time I shared with them in that soothing, cheering, invigorating emblem of civilization — T-E-A ! Tookoolito says that she and her winga (husband) drink it nearly every night and morning. They acquired a taste for it in Eng- land, and have since obtained their annual supply from English and American whalers visiting Northumberland Inlet. " By-the-by, Tookoolito said to me during the entertainment just described, ' I feel very sorry to say that many of the whaling people are very bad, making the Innuits bad too; they swear very much, and make our people swear. I wish they would not do so. Americans sicear a great deal — mo7-e and ivorse than the En- glish. I wish no one would swear. It is a very bad practice, I believe.N " How, think you, beloved Americans, I felt with these hot coals on my head ? Oh that every swearing man, and every saint, could have seen and heard that Esquimaux woman as she spoke thus ! I had just returned from a hard encounter with deep snow — fall- ing snow, driven by almost a hurricane ; but, God, give me a thousand storms — worse, if they could be — rather than have the like thundering in my ears again ! Her words, her looks, her voice, her tears, are in my very soul still. Here, one of the iron daugh- ters of the rocky, ice-ribbed North, standing like an angel, pleading the cause of the true God, weeping for the sad havoc made and making among her people by those of my countrymen who should have been, and ever should be, the glorious representatives of freedom, civilization, and Christianity ! It was too much ; I was a child. I confess, I blushed for this stain upon my country's hon- or — not only this, but for the wickedness diffused almost through- out the unenlightened world by the instrumentality of whalers hailing from civilized lands. TOOKOOLITO REBUKING SWEAUEHS. 163 "This I am ready to admit, that some coinmanders, some ofii- cers, and some crews of whaling ships arc as they should bo, exem- plary men — men who take pleasure in doing good wherever they are — who seek to extend the bounds ofcivilization, planting phil- anthropic and Christian institutions where darkness and igno- lance had before reigned universal. "Being now ready to return — three o'clock P.M. — Ebici'bing kindly gathered a crew from among his friends to convey me aboard. Much seko (ice) had set into the cove, causing us great trouble and delay to get out. Once clear, a few strokes brought us alongside. " 10 o'clock, night, thermometer 29°, barometer 29.525 ; wind south — fresh ; cloudy." IIO.NE SLEDOE-RUNNEB. 164 AKCTIC KESEAKCII EXrEDlTIOff. CHAPTER IX. Visit to Esquimaux Village. — First Specimen of domestic Life nmong the Innuits. — Seal's lilood excellent. — Blind Geoigo in Trouble. — His j)atertml AfTection. — "Rliick Skin" for Food. — Female Tongues good Cleaners. — The Angeko. — Ex- traordinary Conduct of the Natives. — The Angcko's Power. — Mysteries of Innuit Worship. — Koojesse's Trejndation. — Angeko's Cunning.— Choice of Wives. — Cu- rious Guide Poles to Travelers. — Charley's independence of Angeko.— Ship beset in the Ice. — Hoar-frost on the Rigging. — Changes of Temperature. — Sudden Movements of the Ice. — Frozen in. — A Bear-hunt.— Author's first Encounter with a Bear. — Death of Bruin. — Visit the Tuple of Ebierbing. — Scarcity of Innuit Food and Fuel. — The Esquimaux Lamp. — Patience and Perseverance of an In- nuit Hunter. — An Igloo. At this time I frequently paid visits to the Esquimaux village, and one trip I find recorded in my journal as follows : ^'■October 30. After dinner a boat was sent frotn the ship to ob- tain some fresh water at the head of the bay, and I availed my- self of the opportunity to go on shore. Smith had charge of the boat, and in less than an hour we arrived at a beautiful little har bor two and a half miles distant northwesterly from the vessel Here there was a complete Esquimaux village, and all the inhab itants, men, women, children, and dogs, rushed out to meet us, Our crew consisted of five white men, and each of them soon en gaged a native to carry water to the boat, while he himself sought amusement among the tents. Smith and I walked on for about an eighth of a mile to the lakelet where the water was obtained, and put the Esquimaux fairly to work. We then returned, and called at one of the tents. Smith, being first, intended to pass in, but had no sooner lifted the folding door (pendent skins) and in- troduced his head, than he rapidly withdrew it again, exclaiming, •Whew ! By thunder, I'm not going in there ! It's crowded, and smells horribly. IIow it looms up !' He then turned away, but I, having more inducements to bear the infliction, determined to pass in. " Bowing down almost to a horizontal position, in went head, shoulders, body, and all. The next second I found myself butt up against a dozen Esquimaux, all lusty fellows, and crowded to- gether in a heap, each armed with a knife ! But there w^as no cause for alarm. The knives were not for any warlike or evil SEAL-BLOOD SOUP. 165 purpose. They were being used simply for cutting off strips of seal, to be shoved into tlie widely-extended mouths of the hungry people before me. Quite at the back of the tent I perceived my Esquimaux friend Koojesse seated between two pretty females, all three engaged in doing full justice to a dish of sviokmg-hot seal- blood/ Seeing me, Koojesse at first seemed abashed ; but, on my expressing a readiness to partake of any food they had to spare, one of the women immediately drew forth from the stew-pan about four inches of seal vertebra^, surrounded by good meat. I man- aged to cat the latter, and then determined to try the seal-blood. To my surprise, I found it excellent. " On first receivhig the dish containing this Esquimaux stew, I hesitated. It had gone the round several times, being replenish- ed as occasion required; but its external appearance was not at all inviting. Probably it had never gone through the cleaning process, for it looked as though such were the case. But I screw- ed up courage to try it, and finally, ■when the dish again came to those by my side?, I asked Koojesse, 'Pe-e-uke?' (Is it good?) ' Armelarnr/^ anndarvg' (Yes, yes), was the reply. " All eyes were fixed upon mc as I prepared to join with them in drinking some of their favorite soup, "Now the custom of Esquimaux in drinking seal-blood is to take one long s-o-o-o-p — one mouthful, and then pass the dish on 1o the rest till the round is made. I followed suit, and, to my as- tonishment, found the mixture not only good, but really excel- lent. I could not have believed it was so far superior to what my previous notions had led me to expect. " Seeing I was pleased with it, she who presided at the feast in- stantly made ready a prcttj^ little cup, which was clean outside and in, or as clean as an Esquimaux can make it, and filled it with the hot seal-blood. This I sipped down with as much satis- faction as any food I had eaten in my life ; and, in return for the friendly act of my Innuit hostess, I gave her a highly-colored cot- ton handkerchief. She was in ecstasies with it, and the whole company joined with her in expressions of kindness and good- will toward mc. Clearly I had ingratiated myself with one party of the natives here, and this I was determined to do in like man- ner elsewhere. "Soon afterward I left them, and, crawling out of their tent on all-fours, passed through the village toward the beach. On the way I heard a voice calling out ' Mitter Hall — Mitter Hall ;' and. 106 AllCTIC nESEAUCII EXPEDITION. on turning round, perceived poor ' Blind George.' I went to him, and Ibund that he was in great trouble. lie tried to tell nio all his grief, but with difiiculty could he give utterance to his words. 'Ugarng,' said he, 'Ugarng home to-day? My pickaninny away go. Mitter Ilall, speak-um, my pickaninny — speak-um, my pick- aninny here.' " The fact was that, as already stated, Ugarng had got his child, and the poor blind man wanted her to be with him fur a while. [ therefore spoke to Ugarng, and often afterward little Kookoo- yer was seen by her father's side. " While in tlie village I called at another tent, and was treated to a liberal piece of ' black skin' after it had been well cleansed of foreign substances by the free application of a lady's tongue!" On November 10th I again visited the shore, accompanying the water-boat. We found the lakelet frozen over, and that our ice-axe by mistake had been left on board. This would have proved a great annoyance to us had not one of the Esquimaux (Charley) brought his seal-spear to our aid, and speedily opened a good-si/ccd " well-hole." In helping to carry the water, I fell into line with the natives, joining them in their mirthfulncss of heart as they went along. As we passed the tuples, every woman and child gave a joyous smile and kindly word to the stranger. It was on this occasion, after I had been about two hours on shore, that I noticed something unusual had occurred. An excited crowd of natives were rapidly gathering round a young man who appeared to bo frantically addressing them. Whatever his object, I soon perceived that be contrived to greatly affect his hearers. One moment- he made them like infuriated demons ; at another, they were melted to tears. Xow thej^ were clenching their fists and gesticulating in a maddened way ; presently they were calm and full of joyful repose. It was astonishing the hold he had over the people around him. So complete was this power that a simple motion with the tip of his finger would be followed by de- monstrative movements on the part of the audience. An Esqui- maux might be quietly enjoying a smoke, when a word from the orator would bring the pipe from the smoker's mouth to the speaker's pouch, or into the man's own pocket, just as directed. I soon ascertained that the orator was an angcko, or wizard- man, and that' his name was Minij-u-mui-lo. Though young, he was very much credited by the whole population of that and the neighboring village. As I approached, his eye soon caught mine, TUK ANGEKO. 167 and immediately leaving hi:} snow rostrum, he •bounded like a deer toward ine. Willi a face of innocence and full of smiles, be grasped my hand and welcomed me to his magic home; but, though returning the salutation in a friendly manner, I could not so cordially evince pleasure at his acquaintance as I generally did with others. It appeared to me that he was one of those who lived upon the credulity and ignorance of his race, and this thought probably made itself perceptible on my features ; at all events, in a moment or so he left me, and, throwing his arm around Ugarng's neck, ho walked with him into a tent, whither they were soon followed by Charley and the rest of our hired wa- ter-carriers. Koojesso wjus of the number ; and, while I was look- ing on, much surprised, loud and exciting words were heard from within. Presently Koojesse came out; and upon my making in- quiries, ho told me, in a cautious manner, that the uhijcIm was at work, as we should call it, exorcising and otherwise performing various spiritual exercises I Fearing to be considered intrusive, I walked away toward the boat, Koojesse again taking up his water-bucket and continuing his work ; but hardly had I reached the landing-place when down came Mingumailo with a proud and excited step. lie took me by the arm and beckoned me to go with him. I did so, being de- sirous of witnessing some of the farther' acts of this curious and important personage. We walked, arm in arm, toward what, though only a tent, I might well style his temple, for toward it several of his worshipers were bending their steps. As we passed along, Koojesse was seen in the distance with a bucket of water in each hand. In an in- stant, at one word, one motion of my companion, Koojesse, though otherwise a man of great intelligence and strong mind, left his water just where it was and joined us. On approaching the tupic, Mingumailo ordered Koojesse to go in fust, and then directed me to follow. I did so by falling upon my hands and knees, and, in this necessary posture, entered the abode of our Es- quimaux prophet. The angeko followed, and immediatel}'^ di- rected Koojesse to take a position on one side of the bed that was within, and me to be on the other side. Next to Koojesse was seated a pretty Esquimaux woman, one of the nulianas (wives) of the angeko, the other wife — for he had two — not then being at home. Now commenced the solemn exercises of the peculiar worshi]> 168 AnCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. of these people^ MiuguiiuuU) sat facing us. lie begtin by rapidly clapping lii.s hands; so rapidly, indeed, that it was impossible to count the strokes. Then ho accompanied this clapping by some metaphorical expressions beyond the power of ordinary intelli- gences to divine; and, indend, no one but an amjd-o is considered capable of divining them. In fact, the word awjcko signifies 'Ae vi very (jreal^ and this is gi\en as a reason why none but angckofi — the really great — nhould understand. Of course, I demeaned my- self accordingly, and was as c^uict and serious a listener as any one there. Occasionally the nti'jeko would cease his voice and the motion of his hands. Then all became still as death. Pres- ently, with renewed vigor ho would recommence his services, pat- ting his hands — which were moved around during the operation — now in a circle, now before mij face, now before Koqjessc's. Another minute he would pat the chest on which ho sat, first on (7ne end, then on the other, next on this side, then on that, after- ward ou the to}), and so repeating all the operations again and again. Every now and then, with his eyes staring into the far- thest recesses of the tent, he would become fixed as marble, and looking quite hideous. At such times Koojessc was brought into active use. IIo was directed, as mucb by the angeko's signs as by the sudden and sharp words uttered, to fix his eyes upon this point of the tent, then that, but more particularly to where it was said by the wiz- ard ^Kudlaifjs spirit sliook the skin coirri)iffs.'' Poor Koojesse ! I could not help pitying him, though myself hardly able to control the laughter reigning within mc. There he sat, largo drops of perspiration streaming from his nose (Es- (piimaux sweat profusely onl}' o?i the 7iose), and as earnest as though life and soul were the issue. All at once came unusual efforts. The climax was at hand. A grand finale was to take place, and tliis was done with a sprinkling of clear words in Es- quimaux, just enough for Koojessc and myself to understand. The angeko spirit spoke: 'He was in want. The hodlwm {white man) could relieve his wants. Would not the kodluna give the .spirit one of the double-barreled guns in his possession?' This was enough. I saw through the scheme in a moment; but, though astounded at the impudence of the proposition, I be- trayed nothing to .show surprise. I merely turned to Koojcsse, and quietly asked if that was really the angeko's meaning. The reply, in subdued tones, was 'yes;' whereupon I flxrthcr asked CIIOieK OF THE ANGKKO'S WIVES. IQQ him if tliiH man would bo very useful in my future explonvtiona to King William's Jiiuul; and on being answered in the aflirma- tive, I Haid aloud, ' Well, if Angeko goes with mo next season, ho shall have a gun — one of my best.' This made the wi/.ard-man leap for joy ; for ho thought, as 1 afterward found, that I meant to give it him at once, lie grasped my hands, ho threw his arms around my neck, ho danced about the tent, and did many other extravagant things, whieh showed his gratification on making such a triutn[)h of skill antl strategy. He had, as he chose to believe (though I immediately explained, or tried to explain, that the gift was not intended for the moment), accomplished a great feat in eharming a kodliimi into giving him a gun as recognition of his magical power. So complete was his hap{)incss, that he told mo I should have the choice of his two wives, all his tukloo skins (rein- deer furs) that I might need, and sealskins for making boots, with other articles in abundance. That ho had great riches of this de- scription — probably obtaimed from his credulous worshipers — was evident from the rolls of beautiful skins I saw around me. While the angeko was thus expressing himself, his second wife came in, and quietly took a position near the household lamp, which she began to renew with fr(>sh seal-blubber. This gave Mingumailo the opportunity to again jircss the oiler of one of his wives tb me. He begged of me, there and then, to select either of them ; but I soop gave him to understand I was already sup- plied with a wife at home. This, however, neither satisfied his ideas about matrimony, nor — as it appeared — those of his wives ; for both of them at once decked themselves out in all the smiles and blandishments that they possessed. I asked them if they really coincided in the offer their husband had made, and was immediately told that they glad- ly did. However, T was about again declining the offer, when the angeko suddenly made a sign to Koojcsse, and both departed, leaving me alone with the proffered wives. I uttered a few kind words to them, and, giving each a plug of tobacco with a friendly grasp of the hand, left the tupic and went toward the boat. On my way, and just outside the angeko's tupic, I noticed an oar of a kia stuck upright in a drift of frozen snow. Upon it were suspended little packages done up in red woolen rngs, dif- ferently and ingeniously arranged. On one side hung a portion of a well-dressed sealskin, beautifully variegated by parti-colored patches sewed on to it as if for signs. I inquired of several Es- 170 ARCTIC UKSKAUCII KXI'i:i)IT10>f. qiiitnaux tlio meaning of this, but none would inform mo till [ mot Ivoojesso, who sniil it wan for a guide to any Innuit Btranger traveling that way, and who was thus welcomed, as well us direct- ed wliat to do. As soon as Koojossc had loft the tent, ho immediately set U> work in completing the operation of filling our water-cask. Jlr had been told by Ciii)taiu IJ to find, fill, and H(>nd olf another cask, left on shore during .some stormy weather a lew days back, and this he now did by directing nearly the whole inhabitants of tho village to aid in the task. Kvery conceivable article possessed by the natives that would hold water, from a pint up to a gallon, vva.s brought into requisition. A[ost of these articles were mailr of tin, supplied by tho various whaling .ships visiting Northum- berland Inlet, but it would have puzzled a whito man to detect any difl'ercncc between their color ami n negro's. Somo of thf vc.<.scl.s, however, were made of wV.y/(W,' .skins, and were excellent affairs — water-tight, light, but strong, and in no danger of being broken or indented. As soon as the one cask in our boat was full wo were ready foi starting, when it was ascertained that Ugarng aiul Kuiuiiu were absent. Seeking for them caused some slight delay, ami, mean- while, Angcko began his tricks again. By signs he first ordered one, and then another of the Esquimaux, to do this and do that, and, with a single exception, all obeyed. Tho exception was Kooporncung (Charley), who, standing in the boat's stern, wa.*- smoking a Jtipe. lie was told by the angcko to put away his pipe; but Charley, with the same smiling face that he generally possessed, laughed loud and heartily as he laid hold of his pipe, gave it a swing, and replaced it, smoking away as before. Evi- dently Charley was an Independent, though I imagined, from what I had seen of him before going to the wizard's tent, that his bravado now was more because ho was under present civilized rule than from any real strength of mind in the matter. The other natives pulling the boat were servilely obedient. At a signal from tho angcko, who swung his arms on high, my Innuit crew tossed up their ours, and turned their attention to the shore. There wo saw him surrounded by the villagers, and making signs for us to return. Now Ugarng had on his neck a colored kerchief given him by somo civilized hand. This was stated by the angeko to bo a great encumbrance, and would be better ofl' than on — in fact, would be IIOAlt-FUOST. 171 bottcM' ill his, tlu! wi^^urd'.s possession, than iho present hoMer's. Accordingly, with grout reluctance, Ugarng uiiwountl it from his neck and cost it on shore to his master. Minguinailo swung it proudly in the air, wound it around his waist, and ex|)andeil it Ixitwccii his outfltretch(! were again fast bound and firmly fixed by a .solid pack for the winter. To me the change seemed almost magical. At noon of Wednesday, 21st, wo had been bedded in ico that seemed fast for the winter. At P.M. of th.at day, in some places the ice began to give way. During tho ensuing night all of it had left the har- bor and bay. Morning of tho next day saw us clear. At 3 P.M., the wind being southerly, some pieces of ice were seen floating toward us from sea, but still wo were free. This morning of the 23d, how- over, the harbor and bay, save a narrow channel of water, was one 172 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. complete mass of ice. Up to the extent of the bay, running N. N.W. full fifteen miles from its entrance, all was quite a solid pack, much of it five to seven feet thick, though in some parts only from one to three feet. The temperature of the sea water at this time was 26°, and the air 18° ; the barometer 29.55, and wind fresh from the west. On this day, finding it impossible to any longer use the boats, they'^ere dismantled for the season. Nearly nine months must elapse before they can be used again. Sunday, the 25th of November, we had a li :avy gale from the eastward, bringing with it a remarkably warm air (the thermom- eter 32°), and breaking up some of the ice in such a manner that iJ one time we expected to be driven out to sea with it. We were, however, preserved by the pack, in one portion remaining firm, and thus giving us a shelter, though not more than a hund- red yards from where the disruption was taking place. On the 1st of December there was a great calm, lasting till the 4th ; but finally, on the 6th of December, we were no longer under any doubt a% to being well secured in the solid ice for the winter. In all directions, the harbor and bay were completely frr-'on over. On November 24th I had my first sight of, and en unter with, a polar bear. I was engaged writing in my cabin, when a shout was heard on deck, "A bear! a bear!" and immediately relin- quishing my pen for the rifle, I went up and joined a party who started- in chase. Sterry and the Esquimaux llgarng^Jad alre'ady gone off to the hunt, and I rapidl}?^ followed, accompanied by " Charky ," while all the natives that had been on board, and several of the ship's crew, came after us. The bear took a direction near the island where my dogs had been placed, and the howling they made was truly terrible. As Charley and I neared one of the outer islands, about half a mile from the ship, bang went the first gun. Then a second re- port, and soon afterward I could see the bear retreating across a channel to another island. He had received some severe wounds, for blood was pouring out on either side of him, crimsoning his white coat and the ice beneath. The channel was covered over with ice that appeared too frail for us to make passage upon. Down through this ice every now and then the bear would plunge. But soon returning to the same hole, he slid himself out of i*. upon the ice in a very sprawling, but to me interesting manner. Once A BEAK-IIUNT. 173 out, he immediately rose upon his haunches, knocked his torment- ors (the Esquimaux dogs) to the right and left with his fore paws, and thou ran on. But the dogs were again upon his track, sur- rounding and cutting oft* his retreat to the shore. Thus we were soon up with him, though keeping at a respectful distance from the wounded prey. Charley desiring to try his hand at my rifle, and knowing he was a good marksman, I allowed him to do so. He fired as the bear was again on his haunches engaged with the dogs. The shot took effect in his breast, and the brave beast fell kicking and tumbling ; but, after a moment's struggle, was once more on his feet again, flying away. Morgan, of our ship, now tried his double-barrel, with three bullets in each, but both barrels missed fir':'. Another shot was theil fired, and this time the bear tumbled over, as we all thought, dead. A cheer from us follow- ed; but hardly had our voices died away, when the poor bea.'^t was again on his feet struggling to get oft", white men, Esquimaux, and dogs all after him. Once more a heavy charge — this time from Morgan's gun — went into him, striking his face and eyes, and down went Bruin " dead again." One cheer was given, then another commenced, when, lo ! as if the noise had revived him, the brute, seemingly with as many lives as a cat is said to have, went off again, running feebly,. but still with some remaining vigor. Spears were now thrown at him by the natives, but these rebounded from his tough hide, proving as harmless to him as tooth-picks. Once more he was down. Then raising his head, and looking round upon his foes, which numbered a full score without includ- ing the dogs, he seemed as if preparing^ for the last fight and death-spring. It was a dangerous moment, and so all felt. But now was the time for me to tiy my hand. Hitherto I had not fired. This, then, was the moment to do so. I stepped out, aad placed the hair-trigger as it should be, and leveled my gun. " Shoot at his head I give it him in the skull !" was the cry from those around ; but I watched my opportunity, and, when he gave a certain downward tl:vow of his head, fired, tapping the jugular vein. It was enough. One convulsive movement, m the blood oozed out from the keen cut made by my rifle ball, and the life of the polar bear was ended. The next task was to get the carcass on board, and at first we intended to drag it there. A line of snflicicat length was upon the ground, ready for placing round the bear's neck ; but this was 174 AllCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. finally abandoned, as bis weigbt (near that of an ox) would break tbrou^b the treacberous ice around tbe island wbere we were. It UEAB-UCNT — "TAri'lNU THE JLtiULAK." was tbcn decided tbat tbc Esquimaux sbould skin tbe animal on tbe spot, quarter it, and thus carry it piecemeal to tlic sbip. Ac- cordingly, w^e left tbem to tbe task, and bad not long been back to our cabins wbon tbe prize arrived, tbe carcass still smoking hot, tbougb tbc skin was already frozen stiff. I sbould mention tbat, as soon as tbe bear was discovered, Ebicrbing hastened after it with bis dogs, wbicb were regularly trained to keep bears in check until rifles and spears sbould ar- rive. Tbc dogs wbicb I bad brought from Greenland never bad been " educated" for bear fights, therefore they seemed to act upon the principle tbat " distance lends enchantment to the view" by getting upon tbe most distant and highest part of tbe islanc" n which the bear was killed. As regards tbe use made of our prize, I have only to say tbat we divided it with tbe Esquimaux, and bad a capital dinner of a portion of our share. I liked it better than tbe best of beefsteaks. A day or two after this bear-bun'o I paid another visit to North Star village, accompanied by Ebicrbing, who took me direct to bis tupic. After ;.assing on all-fours through the low snow-pas- sage which be bad mp.de, leading to tbc interior, I found myself ESQUIMAUX STONE LAMP AND FIRE. 175 facing Tookoolito, seated near a lamp, and herself covered with skins, she having been taken sick on the last occasion of vis- iting our ship. Mittens, boots, stockings, and articles of clothing, all in a wet state, were on the "dry net" that always hangs over the lamp, but on this occasion the lamp wa!=^ not performing its usual heat-giving functions. Owing to "the backwardness of the cold season in i'rcezing up the bay, the condition of the natives from want of blubber and food was in an alarming state. Many of them could have no friendly lamp to give light and heat. The Esquimaux lamp is the " all in all" to these people. By it their igloo is lighted and kept warm ; by it they melt ice or snow for their drink ; and by it they dry their clothing, hiittcns, boots, stockings, etc. Without tlac lamj), Esquimaux could not live — not so much because of its warmth or use for cooking, but be- cause it enables them to dr}'- their skin clothing, melt ice for drink, and gives them light during the long arctic night of winter. KIM)I>.|.IN AN1> IK-KlI-MKIl, • the StoDO Luini) uud Firu of the I^quiiimiix. When T called upon Tookoolito the lamp was without oil, and could not give either sufficient light, heat, or drying power, hence the melancholy aspect of her otherwise happy abode. Ebierbing, however, intended very soon to make a sealing excursion, and ob- tain blubber at any risk. When oblig3d, Esquimaux do not hesitate in undergoing the greatest privations to get food for their liimilies. They will watch over a seal-hole for one hour or fifty, if need be, in the coldest weather, waiting for the seal to come up and breathe. Kndlago in this manner caught the first seeds of the complaint which car- ried him off. llis family were starving; and after bearing the pain of seeing them suffer for a few days, he could endure it no 176 ARCTIC RESEAKCII EXPEDITION. loijger. He went out in some of the worst and coldest weather known here, and exposed himself for nearly two days and nights continuously, patiently watching for a seal, which he eventually captured. Ebierbing now intended to do the same thing rather than allow his home to be wretched much longer. I need hardly say that every thing in my power was dune for ToolMoUto, as also for poor Nukcrtou, who was very sick. From Tookoolito's I walked a little way on, and found two Es- quimaux, "C/mrfcy and " J/iwer," making an igloo, or snow-house. In a short time more it was finished, and I was quite surprised at its beauty. With the exception of a single stain upon its spotless snow at the apex or centre of the dome, it was one of the most chaste pieces of architecture I ever saw. The exceptional stain was, I am sorry to say, sometliing emanating from civilization. It was the juice of tobacco ! I seized the long snow-knife from the hands of one of the Esquimaux, and .scraped away that which .so marred the beauty of the whole, while the inmates looked on, and then applauded me when it was done. KEMAltKABLE ECHO. 177 CHAPTER X. Kemarkiiblo Echo. — Visit of " Sampson." — Innuit Mode of Washing the Face. — "Job's Comforters." — "Bridge of Sighs." — Mothers nursing tlieir Children. — Serviceable Hoods. — Tails of Innuit Dresses. — Cold in Winter endurable.— Ex- traordinary mild Weather. — Igloos in Ruins. — Kelp used for Food. — Christmas and New Year's Day. — Sick Nukertou. — Inattention to the Infirm and Dying. — Cruel Abandonment. — Innuit Superstitions. — Author's lonely Watch. — Death of Nukertou. — The female Angeko. — Kooperarchu's Death. — Reflections. — Innuit Idea of a Future State. The month of December came in, as I have previously said, with a great calm of four clays, and though the ice was then much broken up, making a transit to the shore difficult, yet I contrived to frequently land for exercise, and to see more of Innuit life. One day, while walking near a channel between two islands, I heard a very remarkable echo, of so striking a character that an ■Innuit boy and three dogs, near at hand, could hear my voice only through its reflected sound. The tide was out, leaving a rock bluff on the opposite side of the channel, whence the sound was reverberated. After giving utterance to my voice, in one second of time the echo came back to me, thus making the dis- tance across 550 feet, as sound travels 1100 feet per second. On December 8th, at noon, the thermometer was at zero, and on the 9th, 15° below zero, or 47° below the freezing point Yet, strangely to me, the cold was not felt so much as I should have supposed. The ice was solid around us, and our good ship quite laid up in winter quarters. Now and then we could hear some heavy and startling cracks, as if disruption was about to take place ; but nothing of any note occurred to disturb or to vary the usual monotonous life on board. Visits from the Esquimaux were made daily, and often we had several sleeping on the cabin floor and on sea-chests in impromptu beds made of sails, thick wearing apparel, etc., and a curious picture it was thus to see them. Frequently, accompanied by some of these visitors, I went to their village and to the islands around us, always being received by the natives in the most friendly manner. Once we had a stranger arrive who had formerly lived near M 178 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. "King's Cape," at a place called by Esquimaux Se-ko-se-Ia)'.* This man's name was Koo-choo-ar-choo, but known by us as " Sampson," TDR OEOBOE IIENBT IN WINTER QDABTERS. from his great size and strength. He was large and muscular, five feet six inches high, and weighing over 200 lbs. lie was famous, too, as a great hunter, and had even captured whales h>j himself, with only the aid of a hoy ! When he visited us, his pretty little daughter Pnhe-ne-yer, of about ten years old, accompanied him, and I was much amused with the nimble way in which she undid and then rcbraided her hair. The use of a comb she did not know until I gave her one and showed her. As for the fa- ther, I found him very intelligent, and, through Tookoolito, who acted as my interpreter, he gave mc much geographical informa- tion. Another of our visitors was Puto, the mother of a white child. • From various sketches di-awn for me by Esquimaux, I concluded Se-ko-se-lnr to be a jjlace on tiic nortli side of Hudson's Strait, near a large bay as yet undiscov- ered by wVite men. Tliis bay is somewhere between the longitudes 72° and 75^ west, making far up, dtic north, and abounding in seals, walrus, white whales, and the Mi/sticeti, or Greenland whales. PUTO AND THE WHITE CHILD. 179 This woman bad once been considered handsome, and even now showed some signs of her former beauty. She was about 35 years old, and, thougii she had a hard time of it alone, supporting her- self and child, yet she was generally cheerful, smart, kind, and industrious. On one of my visits to Tookoolito's igloo, Puto with her child was there, and I then witnessed the operation — very rarely performed — of washing a child's face. This was done by licking it all over, much as a dog would do the hand that had just contained a fresh beefsteak. She did this twice while in my presence, and the true color of the child's face was then more clearly seen. Owing to some cause or other which I could only surmise, Puto suffered more from various privations than the other women. She was often a week with hardly any thing to cat, and, in con- sequence, her poor child was nearly starved. • On the occasion I now refer to, after I had left the igloo and wandered about to other dwellings, I came across Charley and Ebierbing, just ra'rived with a sledge-load of frozen krang, whale-meat, for the dogs. Puto at the moment also came to the spot, and immediately asked for some. They gave her about twenty -five pounds of it ; and this she slung to her back, along with a pack of equal weight already there, besides the child 1 Ye mothers of America! what say you to taking an inftxnt, be- sides an additional pack of fifty pounds on your back, and start- ing off on a tramp of several miles — such was the distance to Puto's home — with the thermometer 40° to 45° below the freez- ing point? This, however, reminds mc that at the same time I was obliged to be very careful, and especially of my nose. An instance had already occurred — a few days previous — of one of the ship's crew getting his nose frostbitten, without discovering the serious fact until pointed out to him, and thus just saving it in time. Ac- cordingly, I had to protect mine by as much covering as I could ; but, as I then said, deliver me from any more of " Job's comfort- ers" — boils — especially if there be any signs of them approaching that bridge below my eyes, which, from late experience, might in- deed be termed " the bridge of sighs !" On the visit just mentioned, I met a sister of Ebierbing, and also jynother woman, just taking up their quarters in the same place. In fact, it was a matter of mutual accommodation, foi the purpose of creating more warmth within, and economizing light 180 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITIOIT. and fuel. They arrived, bringing their worldly goods, while I was talking to Tookoolito, and at once the new-comers proceeded to place their lamp on the opposite side to that of the mistress of the igloo. They first filled it abundantly with seal-blubber, then putting in large wicks of moss, soon brought forth a long, even train of light and a glorious heat. The new-comers, it appeared, had managed to procure some of the precious seal-blubber, so much needed. At Ugarng's igloo, which I visited the same day, I there en- countered several women and children congregated together, I was welcomed at once by Nikujar, ''Polly," the first or family wife of.Ugarng, and by Punnie, his third wife — No. 2 wife, Kun- niu, being absent, though her lamp was bright and in full trim. Little Kookooyer (the child of Blind George) was also there, and, with her fat cheekaf laughing eyes, and pleasant voice, greeted me as I entered. " Polly," in speaking to me, could only raise her voice to a whisper, for she was suffering from a pulmonic disease, and al- most unable to utter a word without pain. While waiting at this igloo, in came Puto and her child — Puto finding it necessary to rearrange the pack at her back prior to a final start for the upper village, Iler infant was given to little Kbokooyer to hold ; but, as it was rather noisy, I thought to pacify the babe by taking it in my own hands, and, in doing so, tried to show them how civilized mothers carry and nurse t^;cir children. This, however, only produced a hearty laugh ; and I was made to understand that, in all the matters relating to the tending of infants — even in the very minutest, as there and then shown to me — the Innuit custom was the best. I could here mention one or two facts, but it will be unneces- sary more than to say that mothers here at home will comprehend all my meaning when I tell them that an Innuit infant is carried naked in the mother's hood, yet in close contact with the parent's skin. Thus every childish necessity is generally anticipated in good time by the ever-sensitive, watchful mother. On the 18th of December we heard of an arrival at the upper village from Annawa, the Esquimaux who, with his family, it may be remembered, went away on the 30th of the previous August. This Esquimaux was a brother of some of the most enterp^-ising Innuits in the North. He lived almost the life of a hermit — that is, he resided with his small family in a distant part, away from THE "BllOAUWAY BELLE." 181 other people, his abode being at an island called Oo-pung-ne-iviny, in the Countess of Warwick's Sound, on the north side of Fro- bisher's Bay. It was his son who had now arrived, with u view of doing a little trade, if he could. Many of the Esquimaux came to me, not only as ordinary vis- itors and to see what they could get in way of presents, but also to do some trading. At the same time, several of the younger ones gladly received instruction from myself in the civilized tongue. As regards trading with them, it was generally done for articles of use, reindeer-skin dresses especially being necessary for me for winter, and no one could be more expert or more tasteful than the Innuit women in making them. On one of my visits to the upper village, a daughter-in-law of Artarkparu was just finishing off her winter coat with a long tail, the universal fashion there among the ladies. It was prettily or- namented (?) with federal coin of the United States — old copper cents — eight in number, arranged in rows, and fixed as pendents to the tail. On another occasion, when Kokerzhun came on board with her husband, she had on a beautiful luJdoo (reindeer) fur dress, having a skirt standing out hoop fashion ! The variety of colors of the tuktoo was most prettily arranged, and so well did she appear, that it was said by some of us she would pass at home for a "Broadway belle." So excellent were the dresses made for me by these Innuit wom- en, that I did not hesitate paying tolerably "liberal" for them, par- ticularly as they were rather scarce. » I obtained a native jacket for a knife, two small skins for another knife and some powder, and a good deerskin for more powder, buckshot, and caps. Many of the natives had guns, obtained from the whalers of Northum- berland Inlet either by barter or as returns for services rendered. I coukl not, at that time, get all I desired in the way of Innuit ap- parel, though it was useless to attempt traveling in any other cos- tume, as nothing but that could withstand the cold ; but from my first arrival I had been obtaining several articles, and thus I was now toleiably well supplied. About this time, and toward the end of December, I was much astonished at the changes in the temperature. On the 19th the thermometer, on this gloriously fair and calm morning, was mi- nus 20°, barometer 30.175. Cold indeed ; by thermometer, 52° be- low the freezing point. Yet so calm was the weather, that to my 182 ARCTIC KESEAUCII EXPEDITION. person it seemed no colder than at the commencement of the sea- son, when the thermometer indicated 82° above 0. But let a smart breeze spring up coming from the N.W., then how like hot iron it will burn ! The weather was such that, unless wo soon had snow, the ice would freeze thick and solid throughout the regions. Snow upon the ice serves to keep it ivarm, the same as snow on the ground in the Northern States of America. In my journal at this date I find as follows : " I have just been out walking and running, exposing myself, my face and hands, to the cold air. A light breeze prevailing from N.W. I am confi- dent there is something yet to be discovered relative to air and cold. The human system is not such a liar as three excellent thermometers I have would make it, if I gave full credence to their story tl is morning. My three thermometers say 20° below zero, and yet h\v greater exposure now than at other times, with a higher register of temperature, leads to no unpleasant results. I am aware moisture in the air makes a great difference as affecting the human system; but a fact is a /ad. The cold air from the same direction — equally charged with aqueous matter at different times — shows a difference of ten to twenty degrees in the ther- mometer; and yet the air at the lowest temperature affects the human system less than the highest. ^^ December 20th, 5 30 A.M., thermometer —5°, barometer ?'>. 200. Wind very lir/hl, N.W. Yet there must be a storm prevail og not far from us, as a tremendous roar of waters and cracking of ice cornes from the direction of Davis's Straits. The ice around the shore of this harbor is tjonstantly ' singing,' indicating that a heavy sea is now affecting us even here. * * * 7 A.M., the wind went round to the N.E., when it commenced snowing; ther- mometer 4°, barometer 30.100. At 10 ]*.M. we had the thermom- eter 14° above zero, barometer 30.050, wind N.E., blowing a gale, the ice breaking up in Field Bay, and also in our harbor. ^'■Friday, December 2\st. Thermometer 21° above zero, barom- eter 30.012. Wind light from east. The bay is nearly clear of ice. What little there is fastens up our harbor. The weather is too warm for the igloos ; they have commenced dripping. If the like continues, down will come snow-houses. ^^ Saturday, Decertiber 22fl?. The thermometer is actually +32^°; barometer 30.100. Wind N.E. During the night considerable rain fell. The natives are in sad plight. There has been not ex- actly a conflagration in the Esquimaux village, but disruption, and IGLOOS IN RUINS. 188 a melting clown. Nearly every igloo is in ruins, owing to the un- expected storm of rain. Some Lave fallen, others about to. The men Innuits are busily engaged in erecting outer walls, filling in snow between the old and the new. I visited nearly every hab- itation, and found the natives exclaiming '^'c-o/i^-e-too / pc-ong-e- tool' — bad I bad I ^ luirij-toon^ — very hungry. "At Ebierbing and Tookoolito's there was great distress. Their igloo was nearly destroyed. In the night the whole of the dome had fallen in, covering their bed, furs, dresses, etc., in wet snow. Ebierbing was busy in making a canvas tent over the ruins, while Tookoolito cleared out the snow from beneath. IIo was wet through, and had not a dry skin upon his back, having been out all the morning trying to save his igloo from the almost univer- sal ruins around him. " Dec. 22d, liaining hard throughout this day, with occasional sleet and snow. Tookoolito visited the ship, and upon her return I let her have an umbrella, which, though she well knew the use of it, was really a novelty to others of her people, who consid- ered it a ' loalking IcnC " The extraordinary mildness of the .season has caused a most sad state of things among the natives. They can not obtain their accustomed food by .scaling, as the ice and cold weather alone give them the opportunity, llcncc in many of the iglc^s I have .seen great distress, and in some I noticed kelp (.seaweed) used for food, " Whenever I visited the natives, such small quantities of food as I could spare from my own slender but necessary stock were taken to them, and on one occasion I gave Tookoolito a handful of pressed ' cracklings' which I had brought with me from Cincin- nati. They were given me by a friend there for dog-food, and I can now record the fact that Cincinnati pressed 'cracklings' made as rich a soup as ever I had eaten." The preceding extracts from my diary about the weather, and its effects upon the condition of things around me, will show that almost the very existence of these c' ildren of the icy North de- pends upon the .seasons boing uniform with the time of year. The high temperature we had experienced, however, did not long con- tinue. A few days afterward, on the 30th of December, the ther- mometer was down to zero ; and on the 5th of January it was sixty degrees below freezing point! The bay and harbor had again been coated over with solid ice, and parties of Innuits were 184 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. out in all directions seal-hunting, but with such slight success that several of them departed for other quarters, where they hoped seals would be more abundant. Among these were Ugarng and his family. They started for Cornelius Grinnell Bay, but, before leaving, a few cakes of hard bread were given them, that the party might have something to fall back upon in case of success not fol lowing immediately. It was not long, however, before Ugarng returned very sick. He left in the morning, and arrived at the ship about 4 P.M., thus making a rapid journey on his sledge of about forty miles. Two days afterward, having received extra aid and medicine, he once more started, and, as will be presently related, when I made an excursion to where he had gone, I found him busily ergaged sealing. Among the other incidents to be mentioned as occurring about this period of my narrative, I must not forget to say that Christ- mas and New Year's Day were celebrated by us in our winter quarters with all the honors it was in our power to show. A few of the natives were on board to dine on Christmas Day, and I took the opportunity to give Tookoolito a Bible that had been placed in my hands by the Young Men's Christian Union of Cin- cinnati, and which I thought could not be devoted to a better pur- pose. I inscribed upon it the following : ^'Presented to TooJcooIiio, Tuesday, December 25/^,1860." Her first act was to read the title, " Holy Bible," then to try and read some of its pages, which she still longs to understand. The new year of 1861 was welcomed by me at its very earliest commencement, having been np throughout the night. The pre- vious evening I had been paying visits on shore among the na- tives, and at 1 A.M. of the first day of January I was engaged in writing, in the midst of the sleeping forms of Esquimaux made warm and happy for the night in our main cabin. Pauhoyer (Blind George) and his little girl, Kookooyer, were there, well wrapped up, and Kimmiloo, in my sleeping bag, was asleep on a sea-chest. Koojesse and his wife Tunukderlien were in my berth, and two other Esquimaux were on the cabin floor. Ebierbing and Tookoolito were on shore in their own igloo, and it was to them that, at half past 5 A.M., I made my first New Year's "call." Various other "calls" were made, all with a view to some beneficial result, and, if possible^ to do the poor people good SICK NUK-ER-TOU. 185 in tlieir then wretched state, and throughout the day sundry man- ifestations among our own men were given, akin to those adopted at home. On this day, January 1st, 1861, we had the thermometer — 1°, barometer 29.20, and the weather calm, with light clouds. We did not, therefore, feel the cold as might have been expected, and thus our New Year's Day passed off most agreeably. I have now to relate an occurrence that was as startling to me in its terrible yet solemn character as any thing I had ever before known or heard of. I have mentioned that another Esquimaux woman, called Nuk- ertou, was found to be very sick, and I therefore determined to again call upon her, taking some medicine, and a little quince jelly that had been given me by loved ones at home. I left the ship, and, after crossing some very broken and dan- gerous ice, which formed a sort of unstable and disjointed cause- way, arrived at the village during the morning. I asked Tookoo- lito to accompany me, which she cheerfully did, and together we went to the tupic of Nukertou. She had been left alone in her sickness, all uncared for, aa was customary, I regret to say, with the Esquimaux when any of them were helplessly ill. The poor woman was very glad to see me, but she was so weak and suffered so much that she could hardly move. I gave her medicine, which soon relieved her, and for this I received many thanks ; but I thought her end near. I could see by her wasted form and utter prostration that she had not long to live. Per- haps, had she received such early attention from her own people as is shown among families in civilized life, she might have sur- vived ; but from no one did she get this, and only by chance did her illness reach my ears. I have before mentioned her kindly nature, ever ready to do any thing she could for all of us on board without looking for fee or reward, and, so long as she had strength, she was to be seen at some friendly task ; but her absence was not particularly noticed, owing to the fact that Innuits are of a character so thoroughly in- dependent that they come and go just as they please. On the present occasion, Nukertou was living iruan igloo occu- pied by Shimerarchu (Johnny Bull), with his wife Kokerzhun, and - her little sister Kimmiloo. The latter came in while I was speak- ing to Nukertou, and when Tookoolito left, the girl showed much attention to her. 186 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. The sick woman lay on skins of the reindeer placed on the snow platform opp.'^site the entrance of the igloo, and, though in the usual condition ot Esquimaux when in bed, said she felt quite warm. The medicine, and perhaps the kindly words, had done her good. But some days afterward I found her snow bed had become unfit for sleeping upon. Some unusually high tempera- ture of the weather for that time of the year, added to the heat — though not much — of her own body, had melted the snow couch, and she had sunk in an awkward position. Accordingly, one day (December 21), assisted by her friends, I made her a fresh bed by procuring blocks of drifted snow, crushing them finely as flftkes, and making the same into a soft, smooth basis, upon which was placed the usual layer of the small dry shrub, and on top of that some reindeer skins. This, then, was the new bed for poor sick Nukertou, and for a time she seemed more comforta- ble. But |ieither the attentions of Tookoolito or myself availed. Gradually she declined; and, though we administered to her such food as wa.- necessary (all the Innuit people, at this period, being near a state of starvation, owing to a very bad season for seal- hunting again), her death rapidly approached. On December 30th, I find the following in my journal concern- ing her : " Invited Tookoolito to go with me and make a call upon sick Nukertou. We found her as yesterday. I had a talk with her, Tookoolito acting as intrepreter. What a scene for my memory I There sat Kokerzhun before her fire-lamp, drinking in every word, as Tookoolito interpreted to sick Nukertou what I had re- quested to be said. Tookoolito went on talking !:o Nukertou all that I had taught her of God, Christ, heaven, the good, etc., and there she stood, weeping over the form of her whom we all love as a sister-^noble Nuliertou. "After this interesting interview Tookoolito and Kokerzhun proceeded to the vessel, while I went to the former's igloo, and obtained my spirits of camphor for the purpose of laving the tem- ples of Nukertou. Here I remained, chafing the hot, tattooed brow of this afflicted but resigned Esquimaux — here I remained alone with this dear one, whose spirit may soon be in the pres- ence of God and angels. Oh that she may go to that happy land where all is rejoicing, and the song is Glory to God in the highest !" The day but one afterward I paid ny usual visit to Nukertou, A LIVING TOMB. 187 and found that Shimerarchu was building a new igloo for her. Upon inquiry, I found that it was to be her living tomb ! I was thunder-struck. A living tomb ! Yes. And so, Tookoolito said, according to custom, it must be ; and so it was. On the 4th of January, 1861, Nukertou was removed to the new igloo. She was carried thither upon reindeer skins by four women, who took her in through an opening left for the purpose at the hade, not by the usual entrance. Snow blocks were then procured, and the aperture well closed, while a woman stood by and gave instruction what to do. An ordinary entrance was then made, and, as soon as completed, I went into the igloo. Nukertou was calm, resigned, and even thankful for the change. Of course she knew that it was to be her tomb ; but she was a child of her people, and as she had now become a helpless burden to them, with only a few days more to live, it seemed to me that she took it as a matter of right and justice, and no one could ob- ject. Therefore she was thankful that her last moments were being so carefully seen to, A new igloo of stainless snow, a well - made bed of the same material, where she could breathe her last, would make her few remaining hours happy. True, she would be alone — for such was the custom of her people — but she did not fear it. She was content, and appeared cheerfully resigned. It may be asked by some. Why did not I try to prevent such an outrage upon the feelings of any Christian person? If so, I reply that I did try to get her on board the ship, but I soon found that in no one thing are the native tribes more sensitive than interfer- ence with their superstitious rites and ceremonies, especially in relation to death. Hence it might have been most unwise, even if possible, to have taken Nukertou on board. Therefore I did my best for her in the igloo, where she would have been literally entombed alive* but for my request to attend upon her. On the 8th of January she died ; and as the incidents con- nected with her death were very striking, I will transcribe them from my journal as entered down at the time : ^^ Monday, January 7th. This evening, fearing that Nukertou was wholly neglected, I went on shore about five o'clock. Of course it was then quite dark, with the thermometer 67° below the freezing point, and it was necessary for me to have a lantern in hand, besides some of the natives to guide me across the ice. * Hereafter I shall have occasion to relate an actual occurrence of this kind. 188 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Oa arriving at the igloo, Ebierbing and the others remained out- side, while I, pushing aside the little snow door, drew myself through the low, narrow-tunnel entrance, which was just of size sufficient to admit my squeezed-)ip body, and neared the inner part. A strange and solemn stillness pervaded the place, only in- terrupted by the perceptible, but iiae'^ular and spasmodic breath- ings of the dying creature withiu. j. raised myself up, looked to- ward her, and gently uttered her name. She answered not. A second call from me was alike unresponded to. I therefore went to her and felt her pulse. It still beat, but told me too surely that she was dying. Immediately I cried out for Ebierbing and Koodloo (the latter a male cousin of Nukertou) to come in. They did so reluctantly. I informed them that Nukertou was dying. The announcement seemed to be overwhelming in sadness. Watching intently each breathing of this friend of all, for a while we were silent. At length it occurred to me that Tookoolito would wish to be informed of Nukertou's condition. I therefore indicated the same to her husband, who immediately ran with all haste to send her here. A few moments found Tookoolito in the presence of the dying. No call from her familiar voice could arouse a recognition from the one who was now about to depart. Alas for us I Nukertou was surely on her way to the land of spirits. " Tookoolito, remaining here as long as was required, and find- ing the change going on with Nukertou was by slow degrees, re- turned to her igloo, leaving me and Koodloo with Nukertou. In one hour I left Koodloo alone in charge, and stepped over to Ebierbing's for a few moments. Upon my return to Nukertou's, what was my astonishment when I found the igloo sealed up — blocks of snow placed firmly in and around the entrance-way. It seemed to tell me that she was dead. I had but a short time be- fore learned it to be the usual custom among the Innuits, when one of their number is dying, for all to retire from the igloo or tupic, whichever it might be, and not return to it. But I thought, 'After all, perhaps not dead I' I threw back block after block of unspotted snow, till at length I made my way into the main igloo. • ^'■Nukertou loas not dead! She breathed, and was much about the same as when I last saw her. I determined then to remain, doing what I could to smooth the pillow of the dying. The lamp was nearly out ; the cold was intense, the thermometer outside being 51° below the freezing point; and, though I had on the ,,ry^- »,'- DEATH OF NUK-ER-TOU. 189 Esquimaux dress, it was with difficulty I could keep ray blood from congealing. There I was, the lone, silent watcher of a dy- ing Esquimaux, encircled within snow walls that were soon to be- come her tomb. Thank God I was there I It did my soul good to hold communion with high heaven at such a time. It did me good to be where angels, just from heaven, came to greet and bear away a soul precious to God. What a scene ! Indeed, to me it was one that has become ineflfaceably fixed on memory's tablet. ' ' 4bout t welve, midnight, I heard footsteps approaching. Soon the sound as if the entrance was being closed up again. I thought, Can it be that I am to be imprisoned here, doomed to have this my living tomb ? I listened a while. I found it true that I was being shut up as though dead. Of course those who were doing this knew not I was there. At length I cried out ' Turbar I tur- bar !' Stop ! stop ! At this, all was again silent as the grave for a moment. I then said, ' Ki-ete' — come in ; and in came the two who were performing the last sad act of respect to the dead. But what shall I say of their last act to the living f The two proved to be Koodloo ond a woman called Koo-ou-le-arng, or Suzht, as we named her. Here they remained half an hour with me, then de- parted. I was again alone with the dying Esquimaux. Nearer and nearer drew her end. Coldness was creeping over her. In- deed, I found the cold taking hold of me. The native lamp, which serves for light and fire, had ceased from want of blubber or oil. There was only my lantern-lamp to give light, and the oil of this was kept fluid by the caloric of my encircling hands. " During the day my fur stockings had become damp from per- spiration, therefore my feet were nearly frozen. Every few min- utes I was necessitated to jump and thrash myself — to do any thing I could to keep my limbs from frostbites. "How intently I watched each change in Nukertou! One, two, three, four, five, six, seven did I slowly count in the inter- vals of her breathing, and these increasing to even double that number. At last I could count nineteen between her inspirations, but her respirations were short and prolonged — irregular. At length Nukertou ceased to live. I exclaimed, ' She's dead ! Ee- ceive back her spirit, I pray thee, O God, for she is Thine.' '•' I placed the lamp before her face. She breathed not. And there I sat on the platform of snow by her side, her disheveled locks matted and tangled with reindeer hair, falling in wild disor- 190 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. der over her tattooed brow. I called to her, * Nukertou I Nuker- tou I' but no response came back. The silence of the dead alone remainfed. TUB UYINa KttC^UlMAUlI — MUK-EB-TUD. " I now left for another part of the island, to call her cousin Koodloo. lie was asleep in an igloo, and, on awaking him, he ac- companied me back. But I could find no one willing to lend a helping hand ; no one would touch the dead. I therefore determ- ined to lay the corpse out myself. Koodloo would do nothing but hold the lamp, and I had to perform the whole. I put her on a snow bed, crossed her hands upon her breast, closed her lips, aud placed lumps of the pure snows of heaven upon her eyelids, with a snow pillow under her head. This done, I then left for the ship, having first taken the precaution to seal up the igloo so as to prevent the dogs from eating up her remains. " It was three in the morning when Nukertou died, and as I left her, so did her body remain, unvisited, uncared-for, within that igloo tomb I" My journal continues : "It might as well be here stated what occurred in Nukertou's igloo on the arrival of my valuable and esteemed friend Tookoolito, when her husband informed her of the dying condition of Nukertou. To my mind the incident goes to show how strongly are fixed among any people customs, how- ever absurd they may appear to others. ESQUIMAUX SUPERSTITIONS. 191 " Tookoolito, on arriving last evening, proceeded to examine Nukertou's condition — feeling her pulse, listening to her breath- ings, watching her every motion. Too true, indeed, did she find what I had said. Tookoolito gently spoke words that astonished me, because they ctthie from one who is not only conversant with ray vernacular, but with the belief and practices of civilization. She saic' Nukertou was dying, and that we must all retire at once ; that if we delayed till Nukertou's death, the skin dresses we had on w juld never do to be put on again. " This was spoken with an earnestness that wanted no guarantee o{ hex firm belief va. what she said. Undei" the circumstances, I had no hesitancy as to my course then and there. I knew she had confidence in me ; that she knew I always treated her people as well as I could my own ; that she knew I never endeavored to cast a slur or make light of any of the customs of her country. Therefore I said, ' Tookoolito, listen to wong-a (me) a moment. On Christmas day I gave you a good book — the Bible. That hook is the Word of Ood. It tells you and me — every body — to visit the sick, the afflicted, the widow, the helpless, the poor.' " Kindly I proceeded, to the best of my poor ability, to show her wherein it was wrong thus to leave the sick — the dying. Her astonishment at what I said seemed as great to her as was mine at her recorded remark. During this important conversation, al- lusion was made as to working on tuktoo furs during the season of catching w£^lrus. It is a fact that, when the Innuits begin to catch walrus, no work is done on reindeer skins ; therefore all winter clothing is made up before any attempts are made to get walrus. The reasons lohy will be stated some time hereafter. " In my arguments with Tookoolito I told her it was not to be wondered at that she and her people believed many unreasonable things, when there had been no one to teach them better — no one to tell them of the Bible. I told her that some people of America and in England believed a great many ridiculous things, but that did not make them true; told her that I only wished to do her good ; that whenever I could kindly show where they — her peo- ple — were doing wrong, I should do so ; that if she or her people could prove to me her or their ways were all the best, then I would be one to do as Innuits did. After this interview under the snow-roof of the dying, I heard Tookoolito, in" her igloo, earn- estly engaged in telling her wing-a all that I had told her. They both seemed thankful for what I had said." 192 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. In connection with the preceding account of Nukertou's death, and the Innuit customs referring to it, I may here mention an- other occurrence somewhat similar, which took place about the same time. There was a sick native, whom I visited on two or three occa- sions, named Kooperarchu, who suffered greatly from ulcers on t}ie neck. His case was desperate, and no remedies we applied avail- ed him. As his end approached, the angeko took possession of him altogether, and when I once tried to see the patient, all the natives assured me it would be useless while the angeko was there. But I determined to make the trial, and, after some per- suasion, and as a great favor, was admitted by the dying man's family. This time the angeko was a woman, and when I entered, her position was at the farther side of the igloo, with her back to me, but seated, cross-legged, under a pile of skins. At her side was the poor man, Kooperarchu, kneeling, and in a state of complete nudity, though snow and ice were above, beneath, and around him. At first I was startled at this ; but, remembering what great wonders have been and can be accomplished by a sick person's complete faith in his physician, I made no attempt at interference except motioning for one of the brothers to place some covering over the patient's shoulders. The angeko was constantly engaged in addressing some un- known spirit, doing it in as varied a way as could be well con- ceived. The whole family participated in the scene, placing themselves in position, responding, ejaculating, and doing what- ever the angeko required ; and all this with a solemnity that was particularly striking, so much so, indeed, that the exercises re- minded me, in some respects, of what is known as a Methodist "love-feast." When the exercises were through, the angeko, turning round, appeared to notice me, and expressed surprise ; but I soon molli- fied her rising anger by a slight present, which made her and the family very friendly. Notwithstanding all the eflforts made by this angeko, they availed nothing in arresting the rapid strides disease was making on this poor man's life. On the following day, myself being sick on board, I requested Tookoolito to see the patient, and take to him certain medicines I gave her. She did so then, and likewise on the next day, remaining half an hour with him. Soon after THE INNUIT HEAVEN. 193 she had returned to her igloo, " Jack," a brother of Kooperarchu, called and said the sick man was dying. Immediately Tookooli- to went back, and, feeling his pulse, found it almost gone. Koo- perarchu felt himself dying, and said to her, as, in our language, she explained it to me, " I going to die — I can not help it — I wish to die. My mother and father in kood-le-par-mi-ung (the Innuit heaven) — I go to meet them — I must go — I can not stop I" She asked him, "Go now?" He replied, "Yes." This was the last word he spoke. Thus Kooperarchu died. Kooperarchu was buried soon after his death. Ilis friends and relatives wrapped him in two tuktoo skins and carried him away. The frozen corpse was suspended across the shoulders of his broth- er by a strap placed under the arms and across the breast, as one would carry a gun. Tookoolito headed the funeral train, and a married sister of the deceased, with a younger brother, and a couple of dogs, besides some of the natives, followed him to the grave. This grave was but a little distance from the village, and merely consisted of a recess made in the snow, with the same ma- terial piled over the dead bod3\ ******* Three days after Kooperarchu's decease I was able to visit his family igloo. There I found his relations all sitting in a close group 6n the snow platform. They were bemoaning the loss ol a brother and excellent seal-hunter. For three days from the death his family had thus to mourn, according to Innuit custom. At the end of that time they expected their lost brother would be in "kood-le-par-mi-ung," there forever to enjoy its pleasures, feast- ing on reindeer meat, and wandering from star to star. N 194 ARCTIC KESEARCH EXI'EDITION. CHAPTER XI. A Janiinry Sledgo Excursion to Cornelius Grinncll Bay.— Rough Traveling overland. —High Cliffs. — Descent of the Sledgo on to the frozen Sea.— Camp on the Ice.— First Night in an Igloo.— Proceed on the Journey.— Dangerous Traveling.— Second Night on the Ico.— Detention.— Cold.— An icy Beard.— Hair-cutting.— A Storm. — Disruption of the Ico. — Fearful I'eril. — Cessation of the Gale. — Con- tinue the Journey. — Ico on the Move in every Direction. — Deep Snow. — Treach- erous Footing. — Laborious Work — Arrive at Rogers's Island. — Great Thirst. — In- nuit Welcome. — A Cup of Water. — Hospitality. — Light, Warmth, and Food.— Night's Rest. — Disappearance of the Ice. — Remarkable Preservation. — Frostbites. — A ser^'iceablo pocket Mirror. — Bad Weather. — Whaleskin eaten as Food. — Attempted Return to the Ship.— Author's weak State.— Innuit Seal-hunting. — Starving Condition of the Party. Having a great desire to try and do something in the way of exploring, and particularly to accustom myself to actual life among the Innuits, I at length determined to venture on an excursion by sledge and dogs to Cornelius Grinnell Bay, whither Ugarng had already gone. Accordingly, after due preparation, myself and party were ready on the 10th of January, 1861, and away we went. The following account of the first day's journey is from my journal, as written every evening in an igloo — snow hut: " Thursday, January 10th, 1861, Thermometer 30° below zero, or 62° below freezing point I My company consists of self, Ebier- bing, Tookoolito, and Koodloo, the cousin of the deceased Nukcr- tou. By 4 A.M. I was up, and, with lantern in hand, went and called Ebierbing and his wife. They arose, and at once proceed- ed to gather up whatever things they would require during our stay. I then returned to the ship and packed up my own mate- rial. The outfit for this trip consisted, in provisions, of If lb. pre- served boiled mutton in cans, 3 lbs. raw salt pork, 15 cakes (-t lbs.) ' sea-bread, J lb. pepper, 2 lbs. ground burnt ooffee, 1 quart molas- ses, 1 quart corn-meal, and 3 lbs. Cincinnati cracklings for soup. Then, for bedding, 1 double wool blanket, 1 sleeping-bag, 1 cloak and 1 shawl for bed-covering. For clothing, besides my native dress upon me, I took 1 extra under-shirt, 1 woolen shirt, 2 pairs extra stockings, 1 pair extra pants, 2 towels, and 2 pairs mittens. COMMENCE TO LIVE WITH INNUIT3. I95 My books were Bowditch's Navigator, Burrit's Geography and Atlas of the Ileavens, Gillespie's Land Surveying, Nautical Al- manac for 1861, a Bible, and ' Daily J'ood.' My instruments were, 1 telescope, 1 self-registering thermometer, 1 pocket sextant, 2 mag- netic compasses, and 1 marine glass. I had also a rifle and am- munition, oil for lamp, and a hand-saw, besides paper, ink, pens, memorandum and journal book. "At 10 A.M. wo were in readiness — Ebierbing with the loaded sledge and team of dogs (five of his and five of my Greenland- ers) — alongside the Oeorge Henry. Tookoolito was gayly dressed in new tuktoo skirt, tuktoo pants, jacket, etc. Bidding adieu to our friends on board, wo then started, Tookoolito leading the way — tracking for the dogs — for about one mile to the shore, in a northeasterly direction. Thenco our course was tliat which Ugarng had evidently taken the day before. Over hill and moun- tain, through vale and valley, away we went.* Sometimes, when on a descent, our speed was rapid. Now and then wc all got on the sledge for a ride. My spirits were high, for this was my first sledge - traveling trip. Ebierbing managed the dogs admirably. Indeed, I should consider him a capital dog - driver. I think I never perspired so profusely as I have this day. Some of the events during our journey have been most amusing. Once we were descending a steep incline, all of the company holding on to the sledge, so as to prevent its too great speed downward, when, one of my feet breaking through the treacherous snow- crust, headlong I went, and, like a hoop, trundled to the bottom of the hill. Tookoolito hastened to my relief, and, seeing a frost- bite on my face, she instantly applied her warm hand, the Innuit way, till all was right again. Another steep incline caused the sledge to descend so rapidly that at length it went over three or four of the dogs, who were unable to keep ahead of it, though running at great speed. " By 3 P.M. we ncared the frozen waters of the ocean, after passing over some very abrupt and rocky ground. On the mar- gin of the sea the cliffs were almost perpendicular, and it was nec- essary to hioa' the sledge down to the ice below. Accordingly, the c'ogs were detached, and while Tookoolito, whip in hand, held on by their traces, which were from twenty to thirty feet long, * For route of this sledge-trip, see track on Clinrt. From Rescue Harbor, lat. C2° 52' N., long. 04° 44' W., over land to Tuk-e-lik-e-ta Bay ; thenco on the sea ice to Rogers's Island, lat. G3° 12' N., long. 04° 32' W. ■ ♦ 196 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION, we lowered the sledge. The tide, however, was out, and it caused some difficulty in getting on to the main ice. At length all was safely accomplished, and once more we started on our way, Too- koolito again leading. Then we proceeded for about five miles, when we came to an igloo out on the ice, which had evidently been erected and occupied the night before by IJgarng and his party. Here we should have stopped ; but, as the igloo was too small for us, we went on another mile, and then, finding good ma- terial for building a snow house, we encamped at 5 P.M." Ebicrbing and Koodloo at once commenced sawing out snow- blocks, while 1 carried them to a suitable spot for erecting the igloo, which took us one hour to make. And a right good one it was, as I soon found. The door sealed up, and the cheerful lamp in full blaze, with a hot supper preparing, made me feel remark- ably comfortable, though in a house of snow, built so speedily upon the frozen surface of the treacherous ocean. I will here give this matter more in detail. Soon as the igloo was completed, Tookoolito entered and com- menced placing the stone lamp in its proper position. It was then trimmed, and soon a kettle of snow was over it making water for coffee and soup. SL.e then proceeded to place several pieces of board we had brought with us on the snow platform where our beds were to be made. Upon these pieces was spread the canvas containing some cf that small dry aiirub I have al- ready alluded to. Over this v/ent the tuktoo skins, and thus our sleeping accommodations were; complete. I should mention that every article on the sledge is passed in through an opening at the back of the igloo, for the purpose of convenience. When all is thu;3 within, then this opening is closed, and a proper entrance made en the side opposite the beds. The dogs are left outside. The drying of whatever has been worn during the day, or whatever has become wet witli perspiration, falls to the lot of the " igloo wife." She places the: things on the in-ne-ihi (a net over the fire-lamp), and through tlie night attends to the turning of them, as occasion requires. Her other duties consist in the re- pairing of such clothing as may be needed. Nothing is allowed to go one day without repair. Every thing, where care is re- quired, oven to pipes and tobacco, is placed in the igloo wife's hands — in this case, Tookoo'.ito's. These matters I particularly noticed on the occnsion of my first night spent in an arctic igloo. FIRST NIGHT IN AN IGLOO. 197 Presently our evening meal was ready. It consisted of Cin- cinnati crackling soup, a small piece of raw salt pork for each of us, half a biscuit, and coffee. Tookoolito proved herself an ex- cellent cook ; and I soon felt convinced that no party should think of traveling in these regions without an Innuit man and his wife, for the latter, above every thing, is the " all in all," or at least the " better half." After supper, myself and the two male Esquimaux had each a pipe, and then turned in, my position being between the hot- blooded Innuits Ebierbing and Koodloo. I slept as well as I would ever wish, and on the following morn- ing, about nine o'clock, after breakfast and repacking the sledge, we again started. Our proper course was due north, but, owing to hummocky ice, we could not follow it. In truth, sometimes we were obliged to make a retrograde movement to get out of "a fix" that we were occasionally in among icebergs and hum- mocks. Owing to this, wc made but five miles direct toward our destination during the day. It had been expected that we could reach Cornelius Grinnell Bay in one day from the vessel, but too many obstacles existed to allow it, and thus a second night came upon us while still upon the frozen sea. A storm was also gathering, and its dark- ness, with the howling wind, which had changed from oiF the land to right upon it, was foreboding. We were likewise much wea- ried with the day's labors, and it was some time after wc stopped before a suitable place was found and our second igloo erected. At length, though long after dark, we were comfortably located, enjoying a hot supper beneath the cnowy dome, the foundation of which rested on the frozen bosom of the mighty deep. But not too soon were we under shelter. The storm had burst in all its fury, and we could hear the wind roaring outside as we warm- ed ourselves within. All night long the gale continued, and the next morning — the third of our journey — it was found impossible to go on. It was blowing a strong gale, and continued so all day, with snow in im- penetrable thickness. We were therefore obliged to keep inside our shelter, wrapped in furs. While thus detained, I took the opportunity to have my hair cut by Tookoolito. It had grown to a great length, even to my shoulders, and I now found it very inconvenient. My beard, whiskers, and mustache were also shorn nearly close to my face. 198 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. In musquito time they were serviceable, but now they had become quite an evil, owing to the masses of ice that clung to them. In- deed, on the previous night I had to lose a portion of my whis- kers. They had become so ice-locked that I could not well get ray reindeer jacket off over my head, therefore I used my knife, and cict longer attachments to them. I may here mention that, after this, when we vacated the snow- house, our dogs rushed in to devour whatever they could find, digestible or not digestible, and my locks were a portion of what they seized. In went my discarded hair to fill up their empty stomachs ! A few days later, I saw the very same hirsute mate- rial, just as clipped from my head, lining a step leading to another igloo, having passed through the labyrinthian way from a dog's mouth onward. About 4 P.M. Ebierbing ventured outside to see how matters looked, but he soon returned with the astounding news that the ice ivas brealcing, and xoater had appeared not more than ten rods south of us! I looked, and, to my dismay, found that a crack or BTOKM-BOUND— KNCAMP.MENT ON THE KLOE IN IIAVIS'U hTUAlTB, JANTABY IItII AND 12X0, 1881. openin-'- extended cast and west to the land, distant about three miles . The gale had evidently set the sea in heavy motion some- STORM-BOUND.—PERILOUS SITUATION ON THE ICE. 199 where, and its convulsive throbs were now at work underneath the ice close to and around us. It still blew very hard, but as yet the wind was easterly, and so far good, because, if a nearer disrup- tion took place, we should be forced toward the land, but if it changed to north or northwest, away to sea we must go and . perish 1 Seriously alarmed, we consulted as to what was best to do— whether at once to hasten shoreward, or remain in the igloo and stand the chance. On shore, nothing but rugged precipices and steep mountains presented themselves ; on the ice, we were in danger of our foundation giving way — that is, of being broken up, or else driven to sea. At length we decided to remain while the wind lasted in its present quarter, and, to guard os much as possi- ble from any sudden movement taking us unawares, I kept with- in sight my delicately-poised needle, so that the slightest shifting of the ice on which we were encamped might be known. In the evening the gale abated, and by 10 P.M. it was calm, but the heavy sea kept the ice creaking, screaming, and thunder- ing^ as it actually danced to and fro ! It was to me a new but fearful sight. When I retired to bed I laid down with strange thoughts in my mind, but with a conviction that the same protect- ing hand would watcli over me there as elsewhere. The night passed away without alarm, and in the morning Koodloo made an opening with a snow-knife through the dome of the igloo for peering out at the weather. lie reported all clear and safe, and, after a hot breakfast, we packed and started, though under great difficulty and hazard. The ice had given way, and was on the move in every direc- tion. The snow was also very deep — sometimes above our knees — and moreover very treacherous. We could hardly get along ; and the poor dogs, which had been near starving since we had left the ship (Esquimaux dogs endure starvation, and yet work, amazingly), had to be assisted by us in pushing and hauling the sledge, while constant precaution was needed against falling through some snow-covered ice-crack. Every now and then we came to openings made by the gale and heaving sea. Some of these were so wide that our sledge could hardly bridge them, and a detour would have to be made for a better spot. At other places we had to overcome obstructions caused by high rugged ice that had been thrown up when masses had been crushed together by the tremendous power of the late storm. 200 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. To guard against and extricate ourselves from these dangers, yet find a track amid the hummocks around, each of us by turns took the lead, and in this manner we proceeded on our way ; but it was evident we had hardly strength enough to persevere in reaching our destination that night. By 2 P.M. we were so ex- hausted thiit I deemed it best to make a halt, and use a little more of the slender stock of provisions I had with me, and which, ow- ing to our being so much longer on the way than expected, had become very low. Each of us, therefore, had a slice of raw salt pork and a quarter of a biscuit. This, however trifling, gave re- newed strength, and again we pushed forward, hauling, scram- bling, tumbling, and struggling almost for our lives. It was dark ere we got near the locality where our next en- campment was to be made, and where, in fact, we intended to re- main a while for the purpose of hunting and sealing, and myself exploring. At length we caught sight of an igloo which afterward proved to be Ugarng's, and, as soon as we saw it, fresh efforts were made to get nearer, but we found our passage more and more obstruct- ed by the broken, upturned ice. Often the sledge was carried on- ward by making it leap over these impediments, sometimes from one point of ice to another, and at others ddwn and up among the broken pieces. Finally we succeeded in reaching the shore ice, which we found all safe and sound, and in a short time more we were alongside of Ugarng's igloo, encamped on the southwest side of Rogers's Island, overlooking Cornelius Grinnell Bay and the mountains surrounding it. Immediately I ran into Ugarng's igloo, and obtained some wa- ter to drink, for I must mention that all day long we had been famishing on account of thirst. The material to make water had been abundant around us — beneath our feet, here, there, and ev- ery where — but not a drop could be obtained, owing to our fire- lamp and equipments not being in use. Thus it was most thank- fully I received the warm-hearted welcome given me by Nikujar, family wife No. 1 of Ugarng, as she handed a cup of refreshing cold water. Then I remembered how, on one occasion at the ship, this same woman, with her infant, came and asked me for water, which I gladly gave to her, with something else. Now she gave it to me. I should mention that, in winter, water is most precious to the natives. It is made only by melting snow or ice over the ikku- STARTLING SCENE.— GRATEFUL TO HEAVEN. 201 mer (fire-lamp), whicli is an expensive heat and light when oil and blubber become scarce; and in this case our materials for fuel were all expended. While our own igloo was being erected, Ugarng and his second wife arrived from sealing, and, to the joy of all, brought with him a fine seal. He generously supplied us with what we wanted, and thus an excellent supper was added to cheerful light and genial warmth from the now well-fed lamp. My fourth night in an igloo, on this journey, was spent more comfortably than the previous two had been, and on the follow- ing morning I rose greatly refreshed and strengthened. As I loQked upon the expanse over which wc had passed, I was start- led to find the ice all gone out to sea. This was confirmed by a view shortly afterward obtained from the top of a mountain be- hind our igloos, and I felt truly grateful to Heaven for having so preserved us. During the day I took a walk on shore, and the two Esqui- maux went sealing. They returned at night with a fine prize, which made us an excellent feast ; and, as my own stock of pro- visions was exhausted, except a trifle I reserved in case of sick- ness, this supply was most timely. On the following day, January 15th, Ebierbing and Koodloo departed, with the sledge and dogs, on a hunting excursion, and I went a\^ay to examine the locality around. During my walk over the hills I came across numerous tracks of rabbits, and I also saw in the distance several prominent headlands that were familiar to mc from noticing them when we first arrived here in the ship. While rambling about, I fortunately preserved myself from a severe frostbite in the face by taking the precaution of carrying a small pocket mirror which belonged to Tookoolito. I had asked the loan of it, knowing how necessary it was, when one is alone in those regions, to have a detector of frostbites; and I found the use of a mirror in such a case equivalent to the companionship of another person. That night I was alone with Tookoolito and Punnie; the latter Ugarug's third wife, she having come to our igloo to keep com- pany with us until the husbands returned. It was very cold — the thermometer down to 57° below freezing point. Now my usual sleeping-place was between Ebierbing and Koodloo; but they being absent, I had to lay on the general bed, wrapped in 202 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. my furs and blankets. Durii:g the early part of the night my feet were almost frozen. I tried all I could to keep them warm, but in vain. At last a smooth low voice reached my ear : " Are you cold, Mr. Hall ?" I answered, " My feet are almost frozen. I can not get them comfortable." Quick as thought, Tookoolito, who was distant from me just the space occupied by little Punnie (that is, Punnie slept in the middle), got down i-j the foot of her bed ; thence she made pas- sage for her hands directly across to my feet, seizing them and drawing them aslant to her side. My modesty, however, was quieted when she exclaimed, "Your feet are like ice, and must be warmed Innuit fashion!" Tookoolito^ then resumed her place beneath ber tuktoo furs, in- termingling her hot feet with the ice-cold ones of mine. Soon the same musical voice said, "Do your feet feel better?" I responded, " They do, and many thanks to you." She then said, " Well, keep them where they are. Good-night again, sir." My feet now were not only glowing warm, but hot through the remainder of the night. When I awoke in the morning, as near as I could guess, there were no loss than three pairs of warm feet all woven and interwoven, so that some difficulty was experienced to tell which were my own. Ebierbing and Koodloo did not return until the next evening, bringing with them some black skin and krang — all the success attending them — which was obtained from a cache, made the pre- vious fall by the natives when our ship was in the bay. The black skin was compelled to be our food, as nothing better could be had ; and at supper I ate heartily of the raw frozen whale hide. The following noon a very heavy snow-storm came on, and con- tinued throughout the next and two following days, confining us almost entirely to the igloo, myself obliged to live on black skin, krang, and seal. On Sunday, the 20th of January, ten days after leaving the ship, we found ourselves in a sad state from actual want of food. The weather continued so bad that it was impossible to procure any by hunting, and all we had hitherto obtained was now consumed, except a very small portion held in reserve. I had intended sending Koodloo back to the ship for supplies, but STARVATION.— SERIOUS TIMES. 203 waited for more suitable weather, Tliis morning, however, it was absolutely necessary an attempt should be made, and as Koodloo refused to go alone, I decided upon proceeding with him. We expected to be obliged to make one night's encampment on the sea ice, now again, so far as we knew from that around us, compact, and we hoped to reach the ship on the following day. My only preparation was a sleeping bag and shawl, with a carpet sack of sundries, and half a pound of baked mutton, which I had carefully preserved to the present moment. At 8 A.M. we were in readiness, with a sledge and team of 12 dogs, most of them nearly starved. Bidding adieu to Ebicrbing and Tookoolito, Koodloo and I started on our journey. At first, much hummocky ice impeded the way, but this we got through, and I anticipated a speedy trip. I was, however, disap- pointed. Soon, deep snow appeared ; and though we struggled for some miles due south, it was at length evident that to go on like that would be impossible. Occasionally the sledge and dogs contrived to get forward pretty well, but often they were so buried as to be almost out of sight. Koodloo seemed to think of giving it up, and I was so weak as to be hardly capable of dragging my- self along. While in this dilemma as to what we should do — go on, or return to the igloo — I perceived Ebierbing and Ugarng on their way toward us. They had noticed my difficulty, and Ebierbing now came on snow-shoes to offer his services in going to the ship in my stead. I accepted the proposal, and he, with Koodloo, went forwara, Ugarng going in another direction, seeking for seal-holes, while I, slowly and with difficulty, owing to my weakness, returned to the igloo. I was a long time getting back, and when I arrived there was obliged to throw myself on the snow platform quite exhausted. Toward evening, the weather then being fine, I walked on to u hill that overlooked the bay, and with my glass saw Ebierbing and Koodloo slowly wending their way along near where our second igloo had been erected, the former leading. That night and the following day I was hardly able to move. My weak state, owing to want of food — all my daily fare being a small piece of black or whale skin — had become very serious. In the evening I went to Ugarng's. He had just returned from sealing, having been out tivo days and one itight over a seal-hole. All the reward he had, however, for his patient exertions was the seal coming up and giving a puff; then away it went, leaving 204 AllCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Ugarng a disappoiHted Iiinuit. But he bore his disappointment very philosophically. lie said, in his native tongue, "Away I go to-morrow morning again I" The next morning, which was very fine, Ugarng and Jack went out sealing again, while I visited several portions of the island. The following day Ugarng returned once more unsuccessful, though he had remained all night over the seal-hole. This was very bad for the whole of us. We could not now have even a fire-light until another seal was captufed ; and when I called at Ugarng's, I found they were in the same condition. Nikujar (Polly) was alone, except her infant and Kookooycr, their daugh- ter by George. They were without light. Ilcr child was rest- less, and she said the cause was hunger. " Me got no milk — meat all gone — blubber too — nothing to cat — no more light — no heat — must wait till get seal." While I waited, the second wife came in and said Ugarng was still watching over a seal-hole. Jack soon afterward returned without success. Sad— -very sad ! My own state was bad enougli, and I felt it severely ; but I could not bear to witness the wants of the poor people around me, having no power to relieve them, unless Ebierbing should soon come back with some provisions from the ship. All that I had to cat was my piece of black skin, a .J this I relished. Indeed, I could have eaten any thing that would have gone toward keeping up the caloric within me, and make bone and flesh. One night I asked Tookoolito if I might try the taste of some blackened scraps that hung up. I knew that she had reserved these for the dogs, but nevertheless I had an uncontrollable long- ing for them. I was very hungry. Tookoolito replied that she could not think of my eating them — the idea made her almost sick ; therefore I did not urge the matter more ; but soon after- ward I saw they were gone, Punnie (Ugarng's third wife) having taken them, and passed the whole into her own stomach ! Ugarng came in late again unsuccessful, and Tookoolito gave him a cup of tea, such as it w. 3, for, owing to the absence of prop- er light and fuel, it could not be well made. Directly he had it, off he went once more to try for seal. The next morning Ebierbing had not returned, and we were all at ou"r wits' end to find something to eat. At length Tookoo- lito made out to cut off some of the white from a piece of black skin. From it she " tried" out sufficient oil to use for heating THE GOOD SIIUNAMITE. 205 EOmu snow-water, which, v/hen warmed, was thickened with In- dian meal, a few handfuls having been found remaining of the small quantity I had brought with me. The quantity of meal did not weigh above two ounces, yet it seemed to " loom up'^ as it was incorporated in the tepid water, and the incident strongly re- minded mo of the good woman and Elijah of Bible history, Too- koolito, with whom I shared the meal, thought the " pudding" excellent, and so did 1. Indeed, I shall not readily forget that breakfast, even — as I wrote at the time — " if I live to enjoy a thousand more dainty ones in my native home " aKAD AND AMTLEBB OF Tllli ABCTIO BEINDEEB. 206 ARCTIC RESEAECH EXPEDITION. CHAPTER XII. Writing under DifflcnltJRS. — No Fire or Lamp. — Only two Inches of Black Skin for Food. — Ravenous Hunger of the Dogs. — Relief obtained. — Ebierbing's Return. — A Seal captured. — Supplies .'"rom the Ship. — Grand Feast of raw Meat. — Hunger needs no Sauce. — Great Consumption of Food at a time. — Old Ookijoxy Ninoo's Dream. — An Innuit Mark of a Seal-hole. — Tobacco-juice useful. — Watching for the Seal. — Innuit Fnduranco of Cold. — Eating frozen Seal's Enttails. — Mode of cooking and partaking of Innuit Food. — Severe Cold. — The Angeko again. — liurning the Fingers with cold Brass. — First Reindeer seen. — More Innuit Arri- vals. — Improvidence of the Natives. — Generous Disposition. — Live to-day and Want to-morrow. — Author Visits Kowtukjua — Clark's Harbor — and Ookoolear — Allen's Island. — Return to the Igloo Village. — Departure for the Ship. — Too- koolito's Sadness. — Quick Journey. — Plaintive Look of a Seal. — Arrive at the O'eorije JJenry. At this time, though I kept in general good health and spirits, I was fast losing flesh. But almost worse than want of food was the want of light and fuel. On several occasions, the only way I had to keep myself from freezing was by sitting in bed with plenty of tuktoo furs around me. The writing of my journal was done with the thermometer -f 15° to less than 0, while outside it was from —25° to —52°. During the day I several times went up the hill to look for Ebierbing's reappearance from the vessel, but no signs of him met my eye, and the night of January 24th (four- teen days from the ship) saw us with our last ration of food, viz., a piece of " black skin" 1^ inch wide, 2 inches long, and f of an inch thick. It was under these very " agreeable" circumstances I went to sleep, hoping to dream of better things, even if I could not partake of them. " Better things" fortunately did arrive, and in a way that I could partake of them. At midnight I heard footsteps within the passage-way to our igloo. Intuitively I knew it was Jack with ooksook — seal-blub- ber. I sprang out of bed and drew back the snow-block door. There loas Jack, his spear covered with pierced seal-blubber hanging in strips like string-dried apples. I had allowed my poor starving dog "Merok" to sleep within the igloo that night, and, directly I had opened the door, on his scenting the luscious fat, quicker than thought he gave one leap — a desperate one, as if the strength of a dozen well-fed animals were in him. In an RELIEF OBTAINED. 207 instant I grappled with the dog, and made great efforts to save the precious material ; but, though I actually thrust my hands into his mouth, and though Tookoolito and Punnie also battled with him, Merok conquered, and instantly devoured that portion he had seized. This misfortune, however, was not single. Before Jack could get his well-loaded spear and himself into the igloo, all the other dogs about the place were around him, fighting for a share of what was left. They succeeded in obtaining nearly all before we could drive them away, and thus the good portion intended for uj from what Jack had procured was lost to us, but not to the dogs ! Jack, who was of Ugarng's party, and had brought this as a present, returned to his own igloo, and left us disconsolate to ours. " Better things," therefore, in that case, were not for us ; but, nevertheless, as I have said above, they did arrive, and that speedily. Not before 9 A.M. did I again leave my tuktoo bed and go out- side the igloo to look around. Naturally and longingly my first glance was in the direction whence I expected Ebierbing. In a moment my eyes caught something black upon the almost uni- versal whiteness. I looked again and again. It moved, and im- mediately my heart leaped with joy as my tongue gave utterance in loud tones to Tookoolito within, " Ebierbing ! Ebierbing ! He is coming! he is coming!" The response was, "That is good;" and I — merely adding, "I go to meet him" — bounded away as fast as my enfeebled body would allow. I soon found, however, that if progress was to be made toward him, I must do it by slow degrees and patient steps. " Black skin," in homoeopathic quantities, daily taken for food, had but kept my stomach in sufiieient action to sup{^rt life. All the strength I now had was mostly from the beefsteaks of dear Ohio, eaten and moulded into human fat, muscle, and bones before leav- ing my native home. But this remaining strength was very, very small, and thus my efforts to get on soon nearly exhausted me. After a great struggle through the deep snow, I at lust got within hailing distance, and sang out to know if it was really Ebierbing, as the party I had seen was no longer advancing. No reply came to my question, and I immediately hastened my fec- Ijle steps to see the cause. A moment or two more brought me near enough to be convinced. It ivas Ebierbing, with the sledge and dogs, but so exhausted with his labors that he had been 208 ARCTIC RKSEAUCII EXPEDITION. obliged to throw himself down, completely overpowered. Soou I was by his side grasping his hand, and, with a grateful heart, thanking him for the really good deed ho had performed in thut* coming alone with the relief I saw before me. In it short time the loaded sledge was examined, and I found a box of sundries sent from the ship, as also a very fine seal, cuwjhl that morning hy Ehicrhing himself. There was likewise a quantity of whale -meat, brought from Rescue Harbor for the use of our dogs. Directly Ebierbing could renew his journey, wo started togeth- er ; but the dogs and both of us were hardly able to get the sledge, along. Finally we reached the shore ice, and here wo were so exhausted that not one inch farther could wo drag the loaded sledge. Kunniu, wife No. 2 of Ugarng, seeing our condition, hast- ened to give assistance, and with her strong arms and our small help, the sledge was soon placed high on the shore by the side of the igloos. Ebierbing's first and most earnest call was for " water." This was supplied to him, and then we commenced storing our new supplies. The seal was taken into the igloo — the usual place for a captured seal — and the sledge, with its contents, was properly attended to. Of course the news of Ebierbing's arrival with a seal " spread like wildfire," and in our quiet little village, consist- ing of three igloos, all the inhabitants with exhausted stomachs — including my own — were prepared for wide distention. The seal weighed, I should say, about 200 lbs., and was with young. According to Innuit custom, an immediate invitation was given by the successful hunter's family for every one to at- tend a "seal feast." This was speedily done, and our igloo was soon crowded. My station was on the dais, or bed-place, behind several Innuit women, but so that I could see over them and watch what was going on. The first thing done was to consecrate the seal, the ceremony being to sprinkle water over it, when the stalwart host and his as- sistant proceeded to separate the " blanket" — that is, the blubber, with skin — from the solid meat and skeleton of the seal. The body was then opened and the blood scooped out. This blood is considered very precious, and forms an important item of the food largely consumed by Esquimaux. Next came the liver, which was cut into pieces and distributed all around, myself getting and eating a share. Of course it was eaten raw — for this was a raw- GREAT SEAL-FEAST. 209 meat feast — its eating being accompanied by taking into the mouth at the same time a small portion of delicate white blubber, which answered the same as butter with bread. Then followed distributing the ribs of the seal for social picking. I joined in all this, doing as they did, and becoming quite an Innuit save in the quantity eaten. This I might challenge any while man to do. No human stomach but an Innuit's could possibly hold 'vhat I saw these men and women devour. Directly the " feast" was ended all the company dispersed. Too- koolito then sent around bountiful gifts of seal -blubber for fire- lamps; also some seal meat and blood. This is the usual custom among the Innuits, and, undoubtedly, is a virtue to be commend- ed. They share each other's successes, and bear each other's wants. Generally, if it is found that one is short of provisions, it may bo known that all are. When one has a supply, all have. After the feast and the gifts were over, we had leisure to attend to ourselves, and in what " great good humor" we were soon to be found ! Our lamps were all aglow and our hunger sated. I then took up the letter sent me by Captain B , which added to my pleasure in its perusal. It aj)peared, by what I read, that every one on board the ship, as also the natives in the two villages, had given us up for lost during the gale wo encountered when encamped on the ice. From the long absence of all information about us, and the fact that the same gale had broken up the ice in Field Bay, it was concluded that wo had been driven out to sea, and probably had perished. Koodloo's wife never expected to see him again; and old Oohijoocy Ninoo, the grandmother of Ebicrbing, said she dreamt about him in such a way that his death was almost assured to her. My information from the ship told me that the natives in both villages were still badly off, not having caught one seal since our departure. I must now mention, briefly, how Ebierbing obtained the fine seal he brought with him. On his way to the ship he discovered a seal-hole, but, being hurried for time, he merely erected a small pile of snow near at hand, and squirted tobacco-juice as a mark upon it. 0\\ his return, he readily found the hole by this mark, and, though he felt the necessity of hastening on to our relief, and had received instructions from the captain to hurry forward, yet he determined to try for the prize by spending the night in attempt- ing to gain it. Accordingly, binding my shawl and various furs 210 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. around his feet and legs, he took his position, spear in hand, over the seal-hole. This hole was buried in two feet of snow, and had been first detected by the keen sagacity of one of the dogs with him. Ebierbing, while watching, first thrust the spindle shank of the spear a score of times down through the snow, i;ntil he finally hit the small aperture leading through the ice. It was a dark night, and this made it the more difticult, for, in striking at a seal, it will not do to miss the exact spot where the animal comes to breathe — no, not by a quarter of an inch. But, to make sure of being right when aiming, Ebierbing put some dark tuktoo hair directly over it, and thus, after patiently watching the whole night long, he was rewarded in the early morning by hearing the seal blow. In a moment more he captured it by a well-directed aim of his spear. The next morning, January 26tli, the Innuits Ugarng, Ebier- bing, and Jack all separated for some place where they hoped to get seals. I supplied them as liberally as I could with my pro- visions, and then myself remained behind to proceed with certain observations I daily made in reference to determining positions, and otlierwise noting down particulars concerning the locality around me. The rations sent me from the ship were examined and placed in safety from the dogs, but not from the truly honest Innuits, for such precaution was not needed ; and then I tried to go on with some work. But it was colder than we had yet experienced, the thermometer being that night (the seventeenth of my igloo life) 75° below the freezing point ! Eemembcriiig that our sealers were out on the ice, and, as they had said, would each be watch- ing for a prize, I shuddered, fully expecting they must be frozen to death ; but what was my surprise and pleasure in the after- noon to see Jack and Ebierbing return, each with a seal — the one captured about midnight, the other early in the morning. Ebierbing admitted that he had felt the cold very much while watching, and, though well wrapped in furs tied around him, could hardly prevent his feet frcm freezing. As to his nose, ihat did get touelied b}'- the frost, but he soon remedied it by smoking a Yankee clay jiipe "loaded" with Virginia tobacco. Ugarng returned in the evening unsuccessful. Another "seal-feast" was of course made, and on this occasion I supjied on seal soup, with about two 3'ards of frozen seal's en- trails (very good eating) as a finish to the affair. PEALINU IN THE W'INTBB. INNUIT MODE OF EATING FOOD. 213 These seal suppers I found to be most excellent. The seal- meat is cooked in a pan suspended for three or four houis over the fire-lamp. Generally it is boiled in water — half of it sea- water — and blood/ When ready, it is served up by first giving to each person a piece of the meat. This is followed by a dish of smoking-hot soup, that is, the material in which the seal has been cooked ; and I challenge any one to find more palatable food in the United States. It is ambrosia and nectar ! Once tasted, the cry is sure to be ^'■More! morcP'' The seal-meat, I may state, is eaten by holding it in both hands, the fingers and the dental " mill" supplying the offices of both knife and fork. This mode of eating was known before such in- struments were thought of. Among the Innuits generally, the following practice prevails : Before the igloo wife hands any one a piece of meat, she ^'■soups^'' it all over, that is, sucks out all the fluid from the meat that would probably otherwise drip out. Farthermorc, if there be any foreign matter upon it, such as seal, dog, or reindeer hairs, she lichs them all off with her pliant tongue. On January 29th wc had the cold so severe that the thermom- eter showed, during the night and in the morning, 82° below the freezing point ! yet, strangely, I had experienced more severe sen- sations of cold when the temperature was at zero than at this low state. Still it rvas cold, and bitingly cold! How Ebierbing and the other men — who had again left on the previous evening — could keep to their watch during that cold night was to me mar- velous; yet they did so; and when Ebierbing returned about 9 A.M. without success, ho told me that he was unwearied in his watchfulness all through the dreary time. Al midnir/ht a seal had come to breathe, but he was not so ready or so smart — probably was too much frozen — as to strike in time, and therefore lost it. Sometimes the wives accompany their husbands sealing, even in such weather. Recording my own experience of igloo life at this time, I may here say that, having then spent twenty nights in a snow house, I enjoyed it exceedingly. Now, as I look back at the past, I find no reason to utter any thing diirerent. I was as happy as cir- cumstances permitted, even though with Innuits only for my companions. Life has charms every where, and I must confess that Innuit life possesses those charms to a great degree for me. On the 31st we had a stranger visit us — a boy called Koo-oh hong — who arrived from a spot one mile west of where our first 214 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION, igloo had been erected. He had found us out, and stated that he left behind, at the stopping-place, Mingumailo the angeko, with his two wives. They had started for that spot a short time pre- ceding us, but now, having been a long while without food, he came to see if we could supply him. The lad had an abundance given him, and never before did I see such an amount of gorging as I did then by that boy. Next day Ugarng departed on a visit to the ship, and with sundry presents of seal-meat, etc., from Ebierbing to his aged grandmother and friends. I also sent a letter to Captain B , preferring to remain until I bad completed all my observations. While taking some of tt ese, however, I " burned" my fingers most sadly by laying hold of my brass pocket sextant with my bare hand. I say burned them, because the effect was precisely the same as if I had touched red-hot iron. The ends of my finger- nails were like burnt bone or horn ; and the fleshy part t»f the tips of my fingers and thumbs were, in appearance and feeling, as if suddenly burnt by fire. On the 3d of February we caught sight of some reindeer on the ice, making their way slowly in single file northward, and eventu- ally coming within a quarter of a mile of our igloc I had given my rifle to Ebierbing on the first sight of them, that he might try his skill in killing one ; but, owing to the charge of powder being too small, he missed, and the reindeer, alarmed, darted off with the speed of the wind, much to our regret. That night, about 12 o'clock, we were aroused by a call from some one evidently in distress. The cry came from the passage- way just without the igloo, and was at once responded to by Ebi- erbing telling the stranger to come in. lie did so, and who should stand before us but Mingumailo the angeko I lie spoke feebly, and said that he was very ill, thirsty, and hungry ; and that he, with his family, had had nothing to cat for nearly one month ! Im- mediately a pile of frozen seal-meat was pointed out to him, with permission to cat some, and, quick as lightning, the famished man sprang to it like a starving bear. But how he did gorge ! He swallowed enough, 1 thought, to have Icilled six wdiite men, yet he took it without any apparent discomfort. Water was supplied to him, and of this he drank copiously — two quarts went down his camel stomach without drawing breath ! Seeing his tremen- dous attack upon our precious pile of fresh provisions, I really felt alarmed lest he meant to demolish the whole, and leave us with- IMPROVIDENCE OF THE NATIVES. 215 out. To feed a hungry man was well enough, and a ready act on the part of all of us ; but then for him to have a stomach as huge and voracious as any polar bear, and try to fill that stomach from our limited supply of food, was more than wo could reasonably stand. I grew impatient ; but finally the angeko gave in. He really had no power to stow away one piece more. He was full to repletion ; and, throwing himself flat on the igloo floor, he re- signed himself to the heavy task Nature now had to perform in the process of digesting the monstrous heap he had taken within. After a time the angeko told ur that one of his wives had accom- panied him, but had gone into another igloo. The other wife kept with them as far as she could, when he was obliged to leave her till means of relief could be found. He had built an igloo for her, and then hastened on to our snow village. In the morning Noo- okkong, the Innuit lad, went with some food to her, and soon aft- erward brought her in, thus making an additioii of no less than four hungry mouths to aid in consuming our supplies. To add to our dilemma, Ugarng returned on the following day bringing with him three more fiisting beings besides himself They were his mother, Ookijoxy Ninoo, his nephew Eterloong, and his niece Ookoodlear, all related to Ebierbing. Ugarng, however, brought for me additional supplies from the ship ; but I saw quite clearly that, whatever I might feel inclined to do for my late companions in their need, it would never an- swer to begin supplying all strangers that arrived, particularly the angeko, who was lazy, and living upon the credulity of his people. Therefore I determined to stop this as speedily as pos- sible. The angeko, however, left us in a day or two for another place, where he and his wives were afterward found, again starv- ing. News from the ship told me that all were well on board, and that the natives had caught om sea], the captor being Koodloo, who had remained there when Ebierbing went with him on the first trip back to the vessel. Storry, of the ship's company, had been some time living at a place in Frobislier Bay, and had, with the natives, caught two walrus. Captain B intended going thither the next month witli some men, to see what could be done the coming season in the way of whaling. After this arrival, the usual daily incidents of our life were un- 216 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. varied for some time. Occasionally seals were obtained, princi- pally by Ugarng and Ebierbing, and then a grand feast of raw food took place. The improvidence and thoughtlessness of the Innuit people are remarkable. If they can live bountifully and joyously to-day^ the morrow may take its chance. This was repeatedly shown in the conduct of one and all during my residence with them in the i-tIoos. Not even Ebierbing and Tookoolito were exempt from th's failing. They would eat, and let others eat up all they had one day, though they — and, I must add, ?nyse^/— -starved the next. In addition to this want of due consideration concerning food for their own home, Tookoolito was generous in the extreme, always giving when asked, and trusting to what might happen afterward for replenishing the supply. Ugarng's numerous family, consist- ing of no less than seven individuals, made incessant demands upon her and Ebierbing, and also upon myself, whenever it could be done by cajolery, or — as I often thought would follow — by in- timidation. My own stores I freely gave to an extent that I con- sidered advisable, and no more; but I frequently pointed out to my Esquimaux friends the necessity of husbanding what they obtained by their persevering and arduous labors. It was, how- ever, of no use. Eat, eat, give, give, let go and never mind, seem- ed the principle that guided them ; and, consequently, in a short time starvation again stared the whole village in the face. Ebierbing, however, was a most persevering and indefatigable sealer. During that season he caught more seals than any other man ; and on one occasion, by the aid of my rifle, which I had loaned to him, he succeeded in bringing back four seals, after hav- ing taken six, but two were lost. This was on an excursion he took by way of Clark's Harbor to Allen's Island. Ugarng had gone with him, and built an igloo near a narrow channel kept open by swift tides, discovered at that place. The angcko, staying at Clark's Ilarbor, would not stir from there, having found a deposit, formerly made by us in the ship, of whale krang, and upon this he and his two wives were living — that is, so far as he allowed the poor women to share with him. When, however, Ebierbing was returning with his great prize, this lazy, worthless angcko must needs join him to share in the feast which followed. I need hard- ly say that my own feelings toward the man were not of the most peaceable ; but I was alone, and even my two Innuit friends yield- ed to the sway of their angeko ; hence I was powerless to avert DEPARTURE FOR THE SHIP. 217 aught such a man might instantly command to be done, had I of- fended him. When Ebierbing returned with the four seals he merely staid long enough for the feast, and was off again, with the understand- ing to look out for me, as I purposed following him. This I did on the 16th day of February, being the thirty-eighth of my de- parture from the ship, and of my living thus wholly among the Innuits. The Innuit Jack was my companion, and we arrived at Kowtukjua (Clark's Harbor) about 3 P.M. This place was where we had anchored in the ship during the previous fall, and where I nearly lost my life by the accidental pistol-shot on the 13th of August. I examined the locality, and then, at 4 P.M., started for Allen's Island. We arrived at Ugarng's igloo about 7 P.M., end were wel- comed by Kunniu, Ugarng himself being out sealing. Here I staid until the 18th, aiding them as far as I could, and curiously watching the various cflForts made to sustain and enjoy life by these singular people of the North. In a future chapter I shall dwell upon this more largely; but now I must only say that great success attended Ugarng's exer- tions, and when we all started for the igloo village it was with a good store of food upon our sledge. We arrived in the after- noon, and, after the usual feast, passed the evening in social con- versation. I had now been forty-two nights in an igloo, living with the natives most of the time on their food and according to their own customs. I therefore considered that I had gained some experi- ence in the matter, and, having made several observations for de- termining the locality of places, prepared for my return. I bade adieu to my Innuit friends in the village, and on the 21st of February left what I then called " my Northern home" for the ship. I was accompanied by Ebierbing, Ugarng, and Kun- niu, and we had the sledge and dogs with us. The parting from Tookoolito was affecting. She evidently felt it; but the hope of herself and husband soon being with me again on my future ex- cursions removed much of the disappointment she then felt at my going away. In ftict, both she and Ebierbing were as children to ine, and I felt toward them like what a parent would. It was a fine day when wc left the village at 7 A.M., and rapid progress was made. As we moved out into the bay, a glow of red light suffused the heavens at the eastern part of the horizon, 218 ARCTIC llESEAUCH EXPEDITION. and when wc had made about four miles south the sun began to lift his glorious face, his darting rays kissing the peaks of the mountains around. Occasionally I looked back to the igloos where I had spent so many days — far from uncomfortable ones — among my Innuit friends ; but soon they were out of sight, and my thoughts now turned wholly to the warm hearts that I hoped to meet on board that night. At 9 A.M. we reached new ice, which started the sealers to try their hands once more for a prize. In ten minutes more Ebier- bing had found a hole, and actually secured a seal I He hailed me to come, and, on reaching the spot, I was asked to pull the seal up while he enlarged the hole, that it might be drawn on to the ice. I did so ; and as the beautiful, eloquent eyes of the vic- tim met my sight, I felt a sort of shudder come over me, for it seemed to say, " Why disturb me here ? I do no harm. Do not kill me !" But the great scaler, Ebierbing, with his spear, had al- ready enlarged the hole, and, hauling the prize higher up, speed- ily ended its life by a few well-directed thrusts midway between the seal's fore-flippers. Not a struggle did the victim make. Its end was as peaceful as that of a lamb. Ugarng had been unsuccessful ; but the one prize of Ebierbing was something, and, after properly securing it to the sledge, away we went on our course again. At 10 A.M. we lunched on frozen seal, and our dinner was the same. We reached the land at 3 P.M., and crossed it in two hours and forty-five minutes to Field Bay. A half hour's traveling upon the ice brought us to the ship, where I found all the crew ready to welcome me with out- stretched hands, and, I am sure, kindly hearts. For a moment, on once more standing upon the ship's deck, I felt myself over- powered ; but, speedily recovering, I returned the congratulations ofiered, and, after seeing my companions were attended to, I de- scended to the cabin, where numerous comforts of civilization awaited me. A warm supper was most acceptable. I was much fatigued with my journey ; and, soon after a short conversation which followed, I gladly retired. Once more, then, did I enter my own little domicile, where I did not forget to return thanks to Ilim who had so preserved me in health and safety during that, my first experience of personal life among the native Innuit tribes of the icy North. NATIVE VILLAGE ON THE ICE. 21U CHAPTER XIII. Irksome Chango from a Snow IIoiiso to the Ship's Cnbin. — Native Village on the Ice. — Scurvy on IJonrd, — Best Cure for it. — "Tuktoo! Tuktoo!" — A Reindeer Hunt. — Dogs in Ciiase. — licmarkablc Sagacity and Courage of Barbckark. — Tho Deer killed by liiin. — Great Struggle between them, — A Venison Feast for the Ship's Crew. — Deatli of Blind George's Wife. — Some of tho sick Crew sent to live with the Natives. — The Innuit King-wat-chc-ung. — His Kindness to White Men. — Koojcsso and Charley. — A sick Man's Obstinacy. — One of the Sailors missing. — Search for him. — Severely cold Weather. — Most of the Party unable to keep np the Search. — Tho Author and ono Sailor persevere. — The missing Man's Tracks; his erratic Movements ; ho gets confused and goes Seaward ; has n Kest in tho Snow; moves on again, and ])rocced8 Miles from the Ship; his Scramble round an Iceberg. — Author and bis Companion exhausted. — Temptation to lie down and Sleep. — Sledge arrives from the Ship. — Search continued. — Tracks lend to the Shore. — Signs of a fearful Struggle. — Discovery of the Body, frozen stitV. — Ground too hard to dig n Grave. — Cover the Corpse with Ico and Snow. — Uetum to the Ship. My first night (February 21st, 1861) on board the George Hen- ry^ after forty-three clays away in an igloo, was a sleepless one ; not from any want of comfort, but in consequence of the supera- bundance of it. From the pure atmosphere of a snow house to the warm, confined air of a small cabin, the change is great, and I felt it extremely while undergoing the resulting "sweating" process. The next morning I visited tho crew to see how the men were, and was sorry to find one or two cases of scurvy among them. The legs of one man, from his knees down to his feet, were almost as black as coal tjir. In reply to a question put to me, I said that forty-three days in an igloo among Innuits was, in ray opinion, the best cure for them. I then went on shore with Captain B . My dogs were all well, and right glad to sec me. The wreck oii]\Q Rescue still existed, though much of its materials had been used for fuel and other useful purposes. I found, astern of the George Henry, several igloos built upon the I'ce, though but few of the natives remained here. Nearly all the inhabitants of both villages had gone away to Frobisher Bay, where they hoped more success would attend their exertions to 220 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. procure food. Indeed,! understood that not less than a hundred Inuuits were located in one place, and doing well. On the 2-lth of February Ebierbing returned to Cornelius Grin- nell Bay, carrying with him many presents and articles of provi- sions for himself and wife, given by Captain B and myself. Ugarng also went away well loaded ; and Koodloo and his family, Sharkey, with some of our dogs, and one or two other persons, likewise departed for the same place. Sharkey Wfs to come back soon with the dogs, which were only loaned to hiai for the occa- sion. Koojcssc, Johnny Bull, Kokerzhun, and all the natives that were about the ship on my arrival, or who came over soon after- ward from Frobishcr Bay, evinced their joy at my return in a way that much pleased me, and showed that I had a hold of no slight nature upon their affocfJoi ^>. Thus two or throe days passed away while preparations were being made by the shiji's company for their spring whaling, and by myself for another excursion, previous to making an effort to- ward proceeding on the main object of my voyage. While thus occupied, an incident occurred that, when related, as here, from notes taken at the time and from facts wcll-attcstcd, may perhaps, by some of my readers, be deemed almost incredi- ble. But precisely as it took place, just so I narrate it. About 9 A.M. of March the 4th, the Innuit Charley, then on deck, reported reindeer in sight upon the ice. This immediately caused much excitement, and, from captain to cabin-boy, the cry ran through the sliip, " Tuktoo I Tuktoo I" Of course wc werf now all but certain we should get a taste of north country venison, for there were numbers of us to give chase and insure a capture. Gruns were charged, and a whole party were going off to the hunt, when it occurred to the more knowing ones that it would be wise to let Koojesse, who offered himself, proceed alone, taking with him only the rifle which I put in his hands. The wind, which was blowing from the north, placed the herd on the windward side of him, thus making his chance more favorable on account of the deer being unable so readily to " scent" the foe. As Koojesse cautiously proceeded, we all watched him most eagerly. Fifteen minutes saw him "breasted" by a small island toward which the deer approached. When they were within rifle shot he fired, but evidently missed, for the game wheeled round and darted away. Directly the report was heard, Barhekarh, my Greenland dog, REINDEER HUNT. 221 bounded off toward the battle-ground, followed by all the other dogs. This was annoying, as it threatened to put an end to any more firing at the game ; and if they would have heeded us, we should have instantly recalled them. But it was now useless. The dogs were in full chase, and fears were entertained that if they got too far away, some, if not all of them, would be lost. At length wo saw Barbekark pursuing — not in the deer trades, cir- cuitous, flexuous, mazy in course, but — in a, direct line, thus evin- cing a sagacity most remarkable. The other dogs, not taking the same course, soon fell behind. On and on went Barbekark, straight for a spot which brought him close upon the deer. The latter immediately changed their course, and so did Barbekark, hot in pursuit after them. Thus it continued for near two hours ; first this way, then that ; now in a circle, then zigzag ; now direct, then at right angles, among the numerous islands at the head of the bay. For a while nothing more was thought of the affair, save an ex- pression of regret that the dogs would not be able to find their way home, so fiir had they been led by the enticing game. A little before twelve, midday, Barbekark was seen coming back, and presently he came on board, with blood around his mouth and over his body. No importance was attached to this beyond supposing that he had come into collision with the deer ; but as for killing one, the thought was not entertained for a mo- ment. Those who had often wintered in the arctic regions said they had never known a dog to be of any use in hunting down deer, and therefore we concluded that our game was gone. But there was something in the conduct of Barbekark that induced a few of the men to think it possible he had been successful. lie was fidgety, and restlessly bent upon drawing attention to the quarter where ho had been chasing. lie kept whining, and going first to one and then another, as if asking them to do something he wanted. The captain even no- ticed him jumping about, and playing unusual pranks; running toward the gangway steps, then back again. This he did several times, but still no one gave him more than a passing notice. He went to Keeney and tried to enlist his attention, which at last he did so tar as to make him come down to me (I was writing in my cabin at the time) and mention it; but I gave no heed, being so much occupied with my work. Perhapl, had Barbekark found me, I should have comprehended his actions. As it was, he failed 222 ARCT'.C RESEAnCII EXPEDITION. to convoy his meaning to any body. Presently one of tlin men, called " Spikes," went oft' to the wreck of the Jicsciic, and Barbc- kark immediately followed; but, seeing that Spikes went no far- ther, the dog bounded off to the northwest, and then Spikes con- cluded that it was really possible Barbekark had killed the deer. Accordingly, he returned on board, and a party of the shijj's crew started to see about it, though the weather was very cold and in- clement. They were away two hours; and when they came back, wo could observe that each was carrying something like a heavy bundle on his head. Still we could not believe it possible that it was portions of the deer ; and only when they came so near that the strange fact was perceptible could we credit our senses. One man, almost Ilcreulcs like, had tlie skin wrapped around him, another had half of the saddle, a third the other half, and the rest each some portion of the deer that wc had all espe- cially noticed. In a short time they were on board, and depos- ited their loads triumphantly on the scuttle-door leading to the cooking department below. Every ollicer and man of the ship, all the Innuits and Innuit dogs, then congregated around the tempting pile of delicious fresh meat, the trophy, as it really proved, of my fine Greenland dog Barbekark. The universal astonishment was so great that hard- ly a man of us knew what to say. At length we heard the facts as follows : Our men had followed Barbekark's return tracks for about a mile from the vessel, in a direct line northward ; thence westward some two miles farther to an island, where, to their Surprise, they found Barbekark and the other Greenland dogs seated upon their haunches around the deer lying dead before them. On examination, its throat was shown to be cut with Barbe- kark's teeth as effectually as if any white man or Innuit had done it with a knife. The windpipe and Jugular vein had both been severed ; more, a piece of each, with part of the roots of the tongue, the skin and flesh covering the same, had actually been bitten out. The moment " Sam," one of the men in advance of the rest, approached, Barbekark jumped from his watchful posi- tion close by the head of his victim and ran to meet him, with manifestations of delight, wagging his tail and swinging his head about. At the same time he looked up into Sam's eyes as if say- ing, "I've done the belt I could; I've killed the deer, eaten just one luscious mouthful, and la})ped up some of the blood. I now DOG DARBEKARK KILLS THE DEER. 228 give up what you sec, merely askyig for myself and tlicse my companions, who have been faithfully guarding the prize, such portions as yourselves may disdairi !" The snow around the spot showed that a terrible fight had tak- en })laco before the deer gave up its life. Somehow during the struggle one of the deer's hind legs had got broken ; and when our men arrived at the spot, several crows were there picking away at the carcass. But Barbekark and the crow family were always on good terms, and probably this was the reason why he did not drive them away, for sometimes they rested upon his back. ■■'■iM UAU-UE-KARK KIIXINU TUG BEIMDEKB. As soon as our men had reached the dead deer and found it ready for them, they skinned it, and then cut it in pieces for car- rying on board. They regretted that no harnesses were at hand, so that they might have had the dogs — Barbekark at the head as conqueror — drag the whole carcass to the ship. As soon as the prize was on board, it was fairly distributed among the ship's company fore and aft, and my brave dog was greeted with many a word of praise for his remarkable hunting feat ! In afterward dressing tUc deerskin, it was seen that the ball 2iii ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION, from my rifle, fired by Koojesse, had really taken effect. It was found in a piece of the flesh still adhering to the skin, at that part which covered the hip. The ball had gone through the skin, and was flattened by striking the bone. I have that ball, and keep it as a memento of this remarkable affair. In referring to this incident a day or two afterward. Captain B said to the men, " Boys, who at home, think you, will be- lieve that affair of Barbekark's and the deer-hunt, with what fol- lowed ?" The general reply was, " Not one in a thousand will be- lieve it." "In fact," added the captain, "/can hardly believe it even now, though it was so." And thus may many others say ; yet the facts are precisely as I have related them, and they are evidence of the keen sagacity and almost human intelligence, al- lied to great bravery, of my faithful Greenland dog Barbekark. On the oth of March Sharhey returned from Cornelius Grinnell Bay. He was accompanied by one of the angeko's wives, and brought us information of all my Innuit friends, and also of Ni- kiijar^s death, which occurred about two or three days after I had left. I have before mentioned that this woman, Nikujar, was the family wife No. 1 of Ugarng, and had formerly been the wife of Blind George. Indeed, until he became blind, she was to him a liappy and loving partner, giving him the one child, Kookooyer, he now so much doted upon ; but when the curtains of an end- less night were drawn over him, he lost her. She consented to become the wife of Ugarng, leaving the noble-hearted but now blind " eagle" to be alone. By Ugarng Nikujar had another child, Mc-noun, but she was always wishing +.0 have her first one, Kookooyer, with her. Thus it was that I so often saw the girl in Ugarng's home instead of with her own father. Nikujar, however, did not get on quite so well as she had expected. Ugarng's second wife, Kunniu, seemed to be his favorite, probably on account of her being so serviceable to him in hunting and sealing ; and Nikujar had fre- quently to remain by herself, or with wife No. 3, to take care of their home. Disease also laid hold of her. She was sick when I first saw her, and consumption had sown the seeds of death in her frame. Gradually she wasted away, and during my sojourn at the igloo village it was evident to me she could not long survive. It was therefore no surprise when I heard of her decease. To Blind George, however, who was on board when the news arrived. A MAN LOST, AND FOUND FROZEN DEAD. 225 the intelligence was a. heavy blow. Notwithstanding her faith- lessness, he had always retained his original love for the mother of their dear child ; and when he heard she was no more, he went and hid himself, that he might mourn without restraint. When I sought him out, I found he was giving way to almost uncon- trollable grief, his eyes streaming with tears, and his lamentations loud and painful to hear. I tried to comfort him, and by sooth- ing words direct his thoughts upward, where the best consolation is ever found. At thic time a very serious event occurred, the narrative of which I here transcribe from my diary : " Sunday, March 17th, 18C1, 11 o'clock, night. "A man lost! The man found — dead ! ! frozen to deatli ! ! ! "I am too fatigued, my mind too overwhelmed with the dread- ful incidents of the day, to make record of what belongs to this day's journal. I leave all for the morrow, after having said, " Peace to the soul of John Brown, one of the men of the George Henry T "Monday, March 18th, 1861. " I now resume the painful record of the subject foreshadowed in the few words of my last night's penning. " Turning back to the record of last Tuesday (I refer to my MS. journal book), it will be seen that two of the George Ilennjs men, John Brown (who now sleeps in death) and James Bruce, both afflicted with scurvy, were sent to Oopungnewing, in Fro- bisher Bay, distmt by slcdge-route s.-venteen nautical miles, for the purpose of having them stay with the Innuits for a while, liv- ing exclusively upon fresii meat, walrus and seal. They accom- panied, as there stated, the Innuit "Bob" (King-wat-che-ung), with whom Chptain B made distinct arrangements to care for them, providing for all their necessities. This Innuit Bob has a noble soul, one that prompts him to nolle deeds, continually out- pouring in behalf of the poor, the friendless, the unfortunate, and .the sick. lie is the one to whom Captain B feels himself in- debted for saving his life in the disastrous winter here of 1855-6, when he (Captain B ) lost thirteen of the crew of his vessel — the Oeorgiana — by scurvy. "On Friday last, March 15th, by the journal ^ly MS. journal), it will also be seen that Koojesse and Charley (Koo-per-ne-ung) went over to the Innuit settlements at Frobisher Bay with the dogs and sledge, for the object of trafficking for walrus tusks and P 226 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. meat. It was expected that they would return by the evening of the same day, but the inclement weather that succeeded their starting out, the gale of the night and next day, prevented their return till twelve meridian of Saturday, at which hour they started. "John Brown and James Bruce, feeling so much relieved of their complaint, they prepared themselves to return with Koojesse and Charley. While the load of walrus skins, walrus meat, etc., was being lashed to the sledge by the two Innuits, Brown and Bruce started on together. They had not proceeded more than half a mile when Bruce proposed that they should return, delaying their journey to another day, as the wind was blowing strong and cold; the indications of the weather being otherwise unpropitious. To this proposal Brown objected. Bruce declared they would be frozen before they could reacn the vessel, and this being his hon- est conviction, he not only decided to go back to the igloo they had just left, but strenuously exerted himself to induce Brown to do likewise. The last words of this unfortunate young man to his companion (Bruce) were, 'I'm going on ; for, by G — , I'm de- termined to have my dulf and apple-sauce* at to-morrow's dinner.' "Bruce returned to Bob's igloo, taking from the sledge his sleep- ing blankets. Brown finally retraced his steps until he met the sledge party, which he joined, continuing his journey homeward to the vessel. The sledge was heavily loaded, so that their prog- ress was very slow. Having proceeded some seven miles, hum- mocky ice obliged Charley and Koojesse to leave the greater part of the load. To unload and make a deposit under piles of ice was a work of time. Brown was anxious to proceed without the tlelay requisite to make the cache. He made known his determin- ation to proceed alone. The two Innuits, who foresaw the dan- gers to which Brown was about to expose himself, advised that he should wait for them. All that these experienced, storm-and-cold- proof men of the North could say i' warning him did not suffice to cool the ardent desire of Brown to join as early as possible his. cheer companions at the Georric. Henry. " Seeing that Brown was about to take his departure, Koojesse and Charley persuaded him to take along one of the dogs, that it « ♦ Sunday is duflF-djiy with the forward hnnds. "Duff" is a favorite dish with them, and also, I may say, with the officers and nil in the steerage. Tiie " a])plo-sauce" re- ferred to in Brown's remark is explained hy tlie fact that dried apples arc incorpo- rated in the "dulF." A SICK MAN'S OBSTINACY, 227 raigbt guide him in the direct route to the ship. Koojesse disen- gaging, the single trace from the ^eto,* the same was passed to Brown's hand. Thus he had a guide, a leader in harness, whose instinct was truer than that of any man, with all his boasted in- telligence. But this dog Brown exchanged for a younger one un- used to the route. With heart bounding with hopeful throbbings that he would soon be among his home companions — that he would soon be participating in the longed-for food of civilization (for which he had acquired a hundred-fold stronger desire than he ever had before, in the course of his brief stay among the Innuits, whose almost sole living is fresh animal food), Brown started on, traveling with vigorous step the rough ice-road before him. Long before the safe ice-covering had been made over the meat deposit, Brown was out of sight of Koojesse and Charley. " A few minutes after twelve o'clock that night (Saturday) I retired. A little later, I heard first the cry of the dogs ; then the loud, peculiar, and unmistakable voice of the Innuit dog-driver; and then the musical sledge, whose glassy bone-shoeing rung to the music of the snows. " Previous to my turning in, all hands had retired. No one was up to learn the news from Frobisher Bay settlements. " The sledge was driven up alongside of the George Ilcnry ; the dogs were quickly unharnessed ; the small portion of the original load was placed on deck, out of reach of the dogs, Charley de- parting for his igloo near the st^n of the vessel ; while Koojesse (whoso winter quarters are with us) hastened in, divesting him- self of his dress, and placing himself alongside of his warm sleep- ing nuliana, Tu-nuk-der-lien, who had retired hours before I did to the usual place of their tuktoo bed, close beside the door of my*sleeping apartment. A few moments fouud the weary In- nuit, my friend Koojesse, in the arms of sleep. The sleep of a tired Innuit is usually accompanied with loud nasal sounds. " My lateness in retiring on Saturday night, my unquiet sleep, made me a later riser on the following glorious day of days — the Sabbath. " Breakfast hour with us is eight o'clock. I was up and dress- ed only half an liour in advance. What was the first news that awaited me? That one of my ' Greenlanders' had been outrage- ously mutilated by some Innuit, who had cut clean off the ani- * Tlie .i/iort line that connects nil the drnught lines or traces of the dogs to the runners of the sledge. 228 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. mal's left ear. ' King-ok,' a fine dog, was the subject of this wick- ed act. King-ok's offense was biting harnesses. As I have said before in my journal, let a dog offend an Innuit, and woe be to the dog! Any instrument at hand is used in administering pun- ishment. In this case a snow-knife was seized, and my noble dog King-ok became the terrible sufferer of an ungoverned passion. " I had allowed my six dogs, in order to complete the team of twelve, to be used in making this Frobisher Bay trip for the ad- vancement of-the George Henry's interests. Captain B burned with laudable indignation on learning the sad condition of my dog. What astounded me, and every one of the ship's company, was the discovery of the fact that Koojesse was the Innuit who committed this brutal deed. Ilis only excuse was that his com- panion Cliarley had first severed the ear of his dog, and lie (Koo- jesse) tliought he must do the same to my dog. "But what of this — cruel and savage though these two acts were — compared with the terrible story I am yet to relate ? " Yesterday morning, after breakfost, I went upon deck, and there met Ad Bailey, who said to mt, standing by the gangway, ' Charley has just told me that the Frenchman, John Brown, start- ed from the igloos of Frobisher Bay with them (Koojesse and Charley); that he. Brown, finally left them, and came on ahead; that they saw nothing more of Brown ; but, as they passed from the land on to the ice of Field Bay, this side, saw his tracks, and wished to know of Bailey what ^le Brown arrived at the vessel.' " Bailey had just ascertained from the hands forward where Brown belon^-red that he had not arrived! At once, under a pain- ful apprehensiOP. of the real state of the case, I rushed down into the cabin, made my way to the captain's room, where I found him preparing for his usual deck-walk, and announced to him the Tacts I had just learned, telling him of my immediate readiness to go in .search of him who I knew must be lost, suffering, or — as I feared from the cold of the night (57° below the freezing point) — a dead man. Captain B instantly went forward, and learned that what I had told him was too true — that Brown had not arrived. Only a bundle of blankets and fresh walrus meat was there, just brought in by Charley, the same having been placed on the sledge by Brown on the point of starting home. Captain B ordered Brown's ship companions to go in immediate search. This wa.s responded to cheerfully, of course. Captain B returned to the aft cabin, and told me that parties were getting ready to move. THE SEARCH FOR BROWN. 229 As fast as I could, I made the exchange of civilization dress for ray Innuit costume. With my marine glass and compass in hand, I made my way on deck. A company of ten men met me there, prepared for the dangerous work before us. The thought occur- red to me that we should take along with us one of the Innuits of the sledge party which came in on Saturday night, either Koo- jesse or Charley. Seeing the former on deck, I asked him to ac- company us. lie quickly joined in. Our first work was to go to the spot where the tracks of poor Brown were seen as reported. " We set out at 8 20 A.M., taking a true W.N.W. course. Our movements were rapid, impelled by the feeling that incited all hearts with the hope we might be in time to save human life. It was only occasionally that we walked — ive ran! I felt, oh! that we had wings, and could determine these anxious fears and doubts in a few moments, instead of waiting the hours that it will require to settle them ! Koojesse and Sam, both great travelers, were for pressing on wfth all their immediate strength. I knew this would not do ; that by this course they would not only sac- rifice their own important services for a long search, which evi- dently it would be, but also those of all the other men. I there- fore repeatedly cautioned them to do only as they and all of us could also do and hold out. But neither reason nor a prudent foresight of the prolonged hours which would be required in this painful service could stay them. One after another of our com- pany fell back. PJre we came within t^'o miles of the tracks, even Koojesse gave out. He was obliged to move with slow steps from his overexertion. The sequel will show the wisdom of my advice, which was finally acknowledged by all, even Sam. I m...j as well state here that, after proceeding three miles from the vessel, I saw, away in the distance, objects that appeared mov- ing. I called attention to them. Then I first learned that a par- ty of five had preceded us in this search. Though they had fif- teen minutes' start of us, we were soon up with them. " When we came within a quarter of a mile of the land, the tracks of poor Brown were found by Koojesse,*who had seen the same but a few hours before. The distance made from the ship was full six geographic or sea miles in one hour and forty-two minutes, the party arriving at the tracks at 10 10 A.M. Only four out of the ten accomplished this, myself of the number that did. I could not be in the rear, injudicious as I knew to be the overexertion that we were making. 280 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. " Soon as we struck upon the almost obliterated footprints of the lost one, our movements were even quickened. Yet the tracks led, for more than a mile, in a direct course to the vessel, and but a few steps southward of our way up. I have written, a few lines preceding this, the words, ' the almost obliterated foot- prints of the lost one.' By reference to my journal (MS. journal) of last night, I see that I there noted the following phenomenon, viz., ' Showers of snow while the heavens are clear. Stars shin- ing brightly.' At midnight, the time of my last visit to the deck, I wrote this, though a previous record had been made of the same phenomenon taking place as early as 9 P.M. " ' Twelve, midnight, stars shining ; all clear over the whole expanse, yet snowing 1 Thermometer —12°.' "This accounted for the filling up of the tracks. Besides, the light wind of this morning tiad swept the beautiful fine snow- crystals into them. " We followed on hopefully, some of our number even saying, ' It may be we shall find John has arrived at the vessel ahead of us.' Oh that it had proved so ! " The course of Brown was so near ours outward that those who had fallen behind had but to turn a little southward to reach it. Hence those who were last became first in the search. The upper part of Field Bay is studded with islets. To one of these his footprints were directed. At length they turned around its southwestern side, where he met with hummocks that obstructed his course. Still farther south he bent his steps to get around them. Each of these turns had a tendency to throw him out of the true course to the ship, which at first he evidently had in mind. " One of the men, finding a place among the ice to which Brown had turned in, actually exclaimed, ' Here he is !' But his out- ward steps were soon traced, so that this gleam was soon over- shadowed. " Getting out again in full view of the bay, Brown nearly re- gained his original course. Following this a while, he again de- viates. Now our hearts are cheered again, for he takes a proper course ; another minute and we are sad — he diverges. After having taken a wrong course, which overwhelmed all with sor- row as we followed it for seven minutes, he suddenly turned north- erly toward a magnificently-pinnacled iceberg that is ice-locked away up the bay. This we thought he had recognized, and that. THE SEARCH CONTINUED. 231 on reaching it, he would then know where he should direct his steps. But, alas I too soon he turns in another — a wrong direc- tion. *' His tracks by eleven o'clock A.M. showed that he was lost. Up to this hour it was evident to us that John had in mind near- ly the proper direction in which the harbor of the vessel lay. It is true that now and then his tracks led in a direction that indi- cated doubt, but mainly otherwise. When John Brown first made Field Bay, passing from the land over which he had just come from Frobisher Bay, it must have been nine o'clock last night, lie could have been but a little in advance of the sledge party he had left in Frobisher Bay. Hence it was not by daylight that "he was struggling to reach the vessel; for, not being used to traveling alone, nor familiar with the route, and it being by night he was traveling, no wonder at his deviations as indicated to us up to the hour I have named, to wit, eleven o'clock A.M. But at this hour I exclaimed, ^ See! see! he loho made those tracks was lostj They were tortuous, zigzag, circular, this way and that — every way but the right way. "At length John took a course S.S.W., leading him obliquely to the opposite side of the bay from where the vessel lay. How our hearts ached at this. Making, finally, a large circular sweep — having perhaps seen the dark, black, buttress-like mountains be- fore him, which he must have known were not on the side of the bay he wished to make — he then took a S.S.E. course, which was the proper one, had he not been making the southing which he had. But this he did not long follow. Another and another bend in his steps, all leading him out of the way. "I here state that, in following the tortuous tracks leading southwesterly, Sam Wilson and Morgan continued a direct course southeast. Soon the alarm was raised that Sam and Morgan had sighted the object of our search. We looked in that direction, and concluded they had, for they were under a full run. A piece of dark-colored ice, raised up from the main, had, however, deceived them. " On, on we followed the steps of the lost for miles, leading gen- erally southeast. " Some distance ahead of me and William Johnston were Mor- gan, Sam Wilson, and ' Fluker.' I felt that I was acting the ju-t dicious part, and therefore kept up a rapid walk — a gait that I could sustain for hours. Occasionally I cast my eyes back. 232 ARCTIC UESEAKCII EXPEDITION. Groups were still following after, some of them far behind. At 12 o'clock M. I was pained to see that all in our rear had become exhausted, and were dii'ectitig their steps toward the vessel. Out of twenty men in uU who left the ship, but five of us now contin- ued the search. "I must confess that the race of the morning had seriously ex- hausted my strength. Nothing but the hope of saving human life could have induced me to take another step at twelve. B}- occasional rests, myself and my companion were reinvigorated. By this prudence, and that of avoiding farther overexertion in running, we found that we were fast gaining upon the three ahead of us. " Thirst — burning thirst continually harassed me. Seeing an iceberg at our right, we turned to it. Seating ourselves by it, with our knives we chipped off piece after piece, with which oui- thirst was partially allayed. The first piece which I put into my mouth froze it fast. Tongue, palate, and lips refused farther service until the ice became of freezing water temperature. The cause of this of course was that the ice contained a degree of cold- ness even far lower than the temperature of the air then around us. The air at twelve and one o'clock was only 42° below freez- ing point, while the berg was 60° — that is, 28° below zero. I took the precaution of holding succeeding pieces in my mittened hand until I raised their temperature to near freezing point, when I could with perfect safety introduce them to my parched tongue. " By-the-by, I found one serious obstacle to my stopping to rest. Cramps of a most excruciating character in the calves of my legs threatened to overpower me. After 1 o'clock P M. I suf- fered less from them. This grievous affliction arose, undoubted- ly, from the overexertion upon our setting out. "At 1 o'clock P.M. I and William Johnston saw the three ahead of us (Morgan, Sam, and Fluker) throw themselves flat on the ice. By this we knew they had become exhausted. Fifteen minutes later found us with them, and flat beside them. Ob, how glad I was to make my bed for a while upon this bosom of the deep ! how refreshed we all were by that prostration of our weary limbs ! While we were resting, Sam exclaimed, ' Well, come, let us eat dinner;' these words being accompanied by the act of t drawing out of his pocket two sea-biscuit. One of the other men drew out another. These three cakes of bread made us a feast, though weighing but three quarters of a pound total. The fore- SEAUCIIING-PAllTY EXHAUSTED.— AUTIIOU rEllSEVEllES. 233 sight that could make this provision should have kept in reserve the strength which the exigencies of our undertaking required. '* We were all invigorated by the repast, and by resting, though only for the space of fifteen minutes. "At 1 30 I'.M. we resumed our march. We were now on dan- gerous ice, near the mouth of Field Bay, the tracks of the lost one still leading us seaward. A heavy sea might take us beyond our power to return. Every one felt that if Brown continued the course in which we were then following him, he raust have ar- rived at a point where he had been carried out to sea on some Hoe. " Most of our little company felt that they could not go farther, so exhausted were they. Sam Wilson was the first of the five to declare he would not ; he said hn could not go farther, although he was one of the forward ones of the morning. Yet he did con- tinue on with us until ten minutes past two P.M. They felt they l)ad tried to perform their duty. This was a terrible blow to me. [ felt that I could not give it up so, discouraging as was my con- dition. I resolved that, so long as God should spare my strength, I would follow on and on ; and, knowing the risk, I did not feel that I could take the responsibility of persuading any one to ac- company me. Up to this time the course of the tracks was tor tuous — now sweeping almost in circles, now to southeast, now to the cast, now to the northeast, now to the south, but mainly lead- ing to the open sea, far to the east. I regretted much that some one of us had not thought to bring along a snow-knife. With this simple instrument in hand, I would have taken the responsi- bility of inducing some one to continue on with me. With this we could have erected an igloo for the night, or any other time, if we should be overtaken by a gale or storm before our return. Fifteen minutes after two P.M. I left my companions, who had resolved to return, and proceeded on ahne. I knew God would be with me in my work. I had not proceeded far before I was overtaken by William Johnston, who said, ' I have resolved that I will accompany you rather than return now. • I do not feel that I have more than strength enough left than would enable me to return to the vessel ; but I may feel better soon. John was my shipmate, and I loved him. I shall ever regret, perhaps, if I re- turn now.' "As we passed on together, we were soon encouraged by find- ing the tracks bending away from the> direction of Davis's Straits. 234 AllCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Our feelings of hope were soon increased filmost to those of joy, for we found the main course of the tracks now led west, as if John had seen the mountains westward, and to them was attempt- ing to make his way, and then follow them up to the point where lie left the land. But how soon was this cup dashed from our hopeful lips! The steps of the lost soon circle around to the southeast, then east, carrying us back again. For fifteen minutes we followed a true course west. Hope lifted us up again, and quickened our steps. At last they turned, circling to the south ; thence around all the points of the compass, crossing, for the first time, his own tracks. This occurred one hour after parting com- pany with our men, whom wc had left to return. Uaving Ibllow- cd his footprints around this circle of twenty rods radius, in less than three minutes another circle occurs. He now strikes due north. With bounding, almost happy hearts, we follow, for this course leads almost directly to tlic vessel. The channel of water leading to Bear Sound of Frobishcr was only ten miles due south of us. This place, though of historical and geographical interest to me, was as naught in the work I was now performing. "But how oft is man doomed to disappointment! The tracks turn again in a circle. Now they come in rapid succession. Round and round the bewildered, terror-stricken, and almost frozen one makes his way. Five circles, one interlocking anoth- er, does the lost man make ; then strikes out, and continues two more — in. all, twelve circles did John make within less than two miles. "During our protracted search, I and my companion often threw ourselves flat upon the hard snow that covered the sea-ice. This gave us rest. At one of these resting-places I fell instantly into a sound sleep. Had I been alone, I know not what would have been the result; but ^ohnston roused me after considerable exertion, and we pressed on. Every now and then we came to places where the lost one had seated himself to rest. In all, wc found eight such places. Just before the company parted, we came to a spot where John had made a hole down into the snow, evidently with the desire to get some of the most compact with which to quench his thirst. During this whole search we made frequent calls on ' John' by loud shouting. " At four o'clock, while following the tracks, which were then tending northward, I thought I heard the cry of dogs. I threw back my hood, which is attached to the jacket in the Innuit way, TRACES OF THE LOST MAN ON A BEUG. 235 and listened. I asked Joluiston if ho had heard any thing. He answered nay; adding, ho thought it only my imagination. I saw that my companion was getting exhausted. Uere we were far from the vessel, the sun sinking lower and lower, and the cold increasing, " Somehow I felt that, upon the return of the three who left us a little after two o'clock, the captain would send out a native with kummitie (sledge) and dogs, suitably provided to co-operate with me in kecj)ing up the search. I regretted, indeed, that I had not sent word by Morgan for the captain to do this. It would be an easy matter to find us, as the tracks of the three would lead to ours, whence we could be traced. "Fifteen minutes after 4 P.M. the tracks of John turned south. Johnston had said he would continue with me till we should reach the coast on the west side of Field Bay, if John's track should con- tinue there. Now they turned from the vessel south. Here, for the finst time, I solicited him to go with rfte as far as a point of land toward which we were headed. He acquiesced. Passing two miles south, a magnificent mountain of ice — an iceberg — stood a little way to the left. As we came in line with it — the berg bearing etrst — we found the footprints of John Brown square- ly turned toward it. At any other time, how I should have en- joyed the sight before me — a pile of alabaster, pinnacled as no human mind could design or human art execute — here and there a covering of cream color, the side facing the descending sun re- flecting dazzling prismatic colors. To this, in the darkness of night, John had directed his steps. As we arrived at its base, we found that this berg was evidently grounded, the ice between it and the sea-ice being in fiagments, from the rise and fall of the tides. We feared we might find that })oor John had lost his life about this berg, for his tracks showed that he had ventured where no man by daylight would dnre put his foot. One place gave pal- pable evidence where he had followed around to the south side and there fallen in. But from this he had extricated himself, and con- tinued around to the east side, where he again ventured. From appearances, I thought John in search of some place where he eould be protected from the wind and cold, where he could sleep. He passed across the dangerous broken ice floating amid sea .wa- ter on to a tongue of the berg. He walked along a little cove that was roofed by overhanging ice ; he finds no safe place there. But where are his outward steps ? For a while we thought it cer- 23G ARCTIC RKSKAUCII EXPEDITION. tain that John was citbcrin some of the recesses of this vastberjr. or had made a false step, and gone down into the deep. Passing northerly, I finally descried returning tracks, lie had made a fearful, desperate leap from a shelving alcove to the main or sea- ice, and thence, after passing a few rods cast, he turned again to his course south, which he had pursued before turning to the berg. "It was now half past 4 P.M. On we continued, though the •steps of my companion were growing moderate, Down again we threw ourselves Hat upon the ice. While wc were thus resting listlessly, Johnston cried out, 'Ilark! I do hear the dogs.' No sooner had he spoken this than the driver's cry came to our ears. We jumped up — looked away to the northeast. Thank God! Cap- tain Budington has sent us help. New life was ours. Kummitie and dogs, and two co-helpers, are fast approaching. I can not ex- press the thankfiU joyfulness of heart I felt, even in the still doubt- ful issue of our search. Still on and on, to the south, we followed John's tracks. As I Rnew Johnston would soon be overtaken,! ijuickened my steps, and soon left him far behind. I turned a few minutes after, and who hailed me ? My noble friend the cap- tain himself. Now I felt sure wc should not return till the fate of the lost man should be determined. Captain B bid me make my way to the sledge, for he knew I must be very much latigued. He required the Innuit Charley, the dog-driver, to take my place in tracking. It was a relief to me and Johnston that we received this asHstancc just as we did. "Captain B had set out a little past two, immediately on seeing the return of the major part of the company of five. He had visited Look-out Island, and with his 'spy' had watched our movements. He directed his course to the returning party; fol- lowed their tracks, on meeting them, to the place where we part- ed, thenCc followed ours — which, of course, were the circuitous, serpentine, and angular one of 'the lost' — until, with his sharp eyes, he sighted us, when he struck a direct course. When Cap- tain B overtook me it wanted five minutes of 5 o'clock. A few moments brought us to a recess in the coast near the point which, according to Johnston's promise, was to terminate his far- ther search with me. "John's tracks showed that he had endeavored to make land. I left the sledge, and, with Charley, followed them up, while Cap- tain B and Johnston awaited our determination of the course John had finally taken. John, we found, had endeavored to mount TIIK LOST FOUND— FHOZKN DEAD. 237 the shore, but the high, perpendicular walls of ice thrown up by the ever-chasigiiig tide would not admit of his accomplishing the undertaking. " Krorn behind these ice barriers tlic edges of sombre rocks peered through. Johnston was deceived thereby at one particu- lar spot, and exclaimed, ' There he is I There I do you sec ?' pointing excitedly to the point indicated. For a few moments all eyes were strained; but sighting showed that John's tracks led easterly, and then south, around the spit of land, on the ice. Again we followed on for half a mile, when we were led into a cove that was terminated by a high rock bluff. Here the ice be- came rough. Captain B and myself were on the sledge, while Charley and Johnston kept directly upon the track. From the bottom or extreme line of the cove that made up to the base of the indicated bluft' sprung out another sjjit, which swept around a little way to the south, its southern side being limited by the channel* through which we passed last fall with the Rescue, up into the bay, where we made anchorage while we visited Frobish- er Bay. As the tracks of the lost led uj) into this recess. Captain B and myself thought that John had made liis way up into it for the purpose of passing directly across the neck of the penin- sula instead of going around it. " Charley and Johnston thought it best to continue on his track, while Captain B and myself concluded to pass on with the dogs and kummitie till we should reach the place where John would probably make the ice on the other side. The distance around, we thought, could be but trifling. Before we had passed out of sight of the track followers, we heard the loud but mourn- ful toned voice of the Innuit Charley. We checked the dogs, turned them back, and thence followed up. Our eyes were watch- ing intensely each movement, each step of Charley. All at once he stopped, then threw up his arms and hands, letting them fall slowly, droopingly. "It needed no other language than what wc saw in the motions of this noble-hearted Innuit to tell us the terrible termination of this day's search. *' Charley and Johnston turned to meet Captain B and my- self. Said they, ' We've found him, and fear he is dead.' Neither had approached nearer than within half a dozen rods of him * In this idea, nt the time, I was mistaken. The channel (leading to Chapell Inlet) is full five miles more to the southward of French Head. Vide Chart. 238 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION, whom we had so long sought. I flew as fast as my limbs would carry me. A few moments found me grasping his arm. It was as cold and rigid as the monuments of ice around us ! " Deep silence reigned for a while, as our little company of four stood around the frozen body of John Brown. There, in the midst of the little circle, lay the form of him who was lost, but now found. But oh, what a finding! Spare me from the like asain ! IIIE LUHf rUUNU — FttUZEM DEAD. " I had hoped to find the lost man — to have become a guide to him — to have given hope to the despairing — to have saved human life ; and yet how thankful I felt that his fate had been truthful- ly determined. " Evidently, from his tracks and the rigidnesfi of his limbs, John had died some time in the morning. From the iceberg for a dis- tance of two miles the footprints were quite fresh compared with the tracks we had seen leading to it. It is quite likely that in the covered shelving of the iceberg, whither he made his way so desperately, he spent some of his time in resting — perhaps sleep- ing. It was almost a sleep of death, for his tracks indicated fee- THE GRAVE AND MONUMENT OF JOHN BROWN. 239 bleness — almost a blindness. Two rods before reaching the final spot of his death, we found where he had fallen down as he walk- ed along, the disturbed snow showing that great effort had been made to regain his walking posture. The place where we found him also exhibited unmistakable signs of a terrible struggle to raise himself up again ; but alas ! a foe as irresistible as iron had been fastening his fingers upon him ail the night long. John had fought like a true soldier — like a hero ; but he had to yield at last. He died facing the heavens, the left hand by his side, the right extended, and his eyes directed upward, as if the last objects mir- rored by them were the stars looking down upon him in his death-struggles. Ilis face bore evidence that his death was like sweet sleep. "Every article of John's clothing was in its place — his hands mittened — his head, ears, and nose protected as well as they could be by a Russian cap — his feet shielded by native boots and stock- ings, and his body well clothed in woolen garments, over which was his sealskin jacket. " Well, we found the lost, determined his terrible fate, and now what remained to be done? "We considered it imprudent for us to attempt to convey the remjtlns back to the vessel ; we thought it our duty to show all becoming respect for the dead, and equally our duty to guard well the living against the exposures that threatened us on our return, for it was now 5 o'clock P.M., and we were full ten miles by direct route from the ship. " Captain B and myself concluded to make his grave ashore, at the base of a noble mountain bluff or headland, that would stand forever as the monument of the deceased. But it was soon found that not a stone could be moved. We then de- cided to make his grave upon the ice, on the very spot where he died, covering his form with the unspotted ice and snow that lay in profusion around. This sad duty was performed with weeping liearts. When all was completed, with reverential awe of the God of the heavens and the earth, we bent over the grave of our friend, and shed the tears of mourning, tempered with the hope that 'now it is better with thy spirit!' " With slow steps we moved from this toward the dogs and sledge, by which we were to travel for hours to our quarters. It was half past five when we left the grave of John Brown. Our team of twelve dogs made rapid progress some of the way, while 240 ARCTIC XIESEAUCH EXrEDITlON. at times there seemed to be a ' hugging' of the sledge-shoes to the snow that made the draught very heavy. We had some earnest work to do to keep ourselves from freezing. Every now and then we took turns in jumping off and running. Captain B had unfortunately ventured out with a pair of civilization boots, having found his native ones too small. On the return passage he got Johnston to pull off one of his boots, as he found one foot freezing. This simple, quick act of pulling off the captain's boot (with unmittened hand) gave Johnston a pile of frozen fingers. Half a dozen times Johnston's nose was frozen, and as often I rubbed it into order. I took the precaution of keeping myself in active exercise by running along beside the sledge for more than half of the way home. The thermometer was down to 59° below the freezing point, with a fresh wind from the northwest. Thus we had severe battling to do to keep from becoming subjects of King Cold. " Every now and then I threw myself flat on the sledge, there keeping myself well to the leeward of Captain B and the ex- cellent dog-driver Charley. I then, with face upturned, could see the workings of the Almighty in the heavens above. The aurora was spanning the blue vault, painting in beauteous colors that part of the sky which seemingly overhung the ever-to-be-remerr. bered spot where we had bid adieu to the remains of our friend, John Brown. " What think you, ftiy friends, were my thoughts, as I lay with my eyes looking above — the glory of God's creation shining upon me — as T was swiftly carried along, with the consciousness in my breast of having performed, on this holy day, simply my duty — the duty of man to man ? " As we nearcd the vessel, groups of anxious friends came out to meet us. How they peered among our number — all four of us upon the sledge — to see if John Brown was among our com- pany ! None of us could speak. It was like a funeral train. "A voice from one, trembling between hope and fear, asked, as we drove alongside the George Henry, ' Tell us, did you find him?' 'Yes,' I replied. 'Was he dead?' continued the same voice. 'You have it; alas! it is too true,' was my answer. "Now the terrible news flew from one to another — from fore- castle to steerage, all exclaiming, ' IIow sad — how terrible an end !' " Having partaken of refreshments, and exchanged my native CONCLUSION OF THE SEARCH. 241 skin-dress — which was wringing wet with my profuse perspira- tion of the day — for my civilization clothes, which I wear only when about the ship, I had to relate all the incidents connected with my search to the company around. " I was sorry to find every one who had been out engaging ac- tively in the search completely used up. The three from whom I parted a little after 2 P.M. did not get to the vessel until near six. "The distance traveled yesterday was full fifty-one English miles, a feat at which I myself am surprised. " On reaching the vessel about 9 o'clock at night, we found there had been an arrival of Innuits (seven in number) on two sledges, with dogs, from Frobisher Bay settlement. They brought along a portion of the walrus deposited by Charley and Koojesse on the other side of the land that lies between us and Frobisher Bay. "These Innuits also brought the dog which the unfortunate Brown took with him as a guide. They met the dog out on Fro- bisher Bay, returning toward the igloos. It had on simply the harness without the draught-trace, which, to all appearance, had been cut with a knife close up to the harness. This dog is a young black one, and was not suitable as a guide. Had Brown taken either of the others (he had his choice), he would have been conducted safely to the vessel. But he felt sure he knew the way. How fatal that assurance has proved to him ! " Bruce, the companion of Brown, arrived with the party of In- nuits last evening (5 P.M.). When coming, he was pushing on ahead of the party, and saw, in the distance before him, a black creature* which he took to be a bear. He turned upon his heel, and ran as fast as his legs would carry him back to the advancing sledge party, crying to them vociferously to '/ct-efe' (hasten toward him), as a bear was after him. It proved to be the young, docile black dog of Captain B 's which John had taken as his guide to the vessel. The draught-string of ookgook skin (large seal- skin) had, without doubt, been used by John to fasten around his kum-ings (native boots), to keep them properly on his feet. We noticed, when we found him last evening, that his feet -gear had apparently just received the addition of new thongs. His tracks showed that his kum-ings had a tendency to slip down, and to make him slipshod. Q 242 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. "The natives brought the dog along with them. As they carao across the land, when near Field Bay they found where this black dog had lain down to sleep, and found also that, as he rose, he walked around in circles, then struck westward, instead of the di- rection of the vessel. This certainly shows that the dog had not answered the purpose as guide to poor John. "How unfortunate this young man, John Brown, has been in this matter! Had he listened to the advice of either Captain B or his own companion, or to the warnings of the two In- nuits, Charley and Koojesse, this sad end of his life which 1 now record would not have been made, " His age, I understand, was eighteen at the time of his death. His parents reside in France, " ^Jiequiescal in joace.^ " PARIIRUA, on MOCK 8UNB, an eeen Ht I'ield liny, Mnn-h 14, 1861. THE ESQUIMAUX SEAL-DOG. 243 CHAPTER XIV. ViHited by more Innuits. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — The Seal-dog. — Perils on the Ice. — Innuits carried out to Sea. — Starvation. — Dogs eaten. — Three Months away from Lund. — Uetum of the Party, mere Skeletons. — Thrilling Incidents. — An Innuit carried down by a Whale and afterward saved. — A Man's Leg snap- ped off.— Suziii's Husband killed by an Avalanche. — Incidents of White Men's Perils and Escapes.— Kindness of the Natives. — Another Man nearly frozen to Death. — Heavy Snow-storm. — Danger to Mate Rogers and hib lunuit Guide. — Dog Barbekark saves them. — Commencement of Spring. — Author's Occupations'. — Makes some Instruments for his Use in exploring. — Plans. — Strange Informa- tion gatliered from the Natives. — Tradition concerning White Men.— Frobisher's Exijcdition. For several days after the search which was made for poor Brown on the 17th of March, I was much troubled with boils, the result of eating the ship's salt meats, which caused great prostra- tion, and rendered me unable to do any thing but take a few ob- servations and register the weather. It was noticed by every one that I had considerably decreased in weight; indeed, my whole frame showed signs of hard usage, and that I was getting emaci- ated ; but, having a good constitution, I soon recruited, and after a short period of rest I was able to get about my work again. On the 20th of March several of our Innuit friends arrived from various places where they had been hunting and sealing, thus striving to find means of subsistence. The Inni its are, as I have frequently said, most persevering sealers, and will go, with their dogs, even in the very coldest of weather, and under most dangerous circumstances, to hunt for seal-holes. The sagacious dog, on snuffing the air and finding it charged with seal odor, follows it to the windward till he leads his master to the very spot where a seal has its hole. The man then proceeds 2»'ospccti7}(j with his vspear through one to three feet depth of snow, until he finds the small opening in the ice leading to the main seal-hole. The hole found, the long spindle shank of the spear is withdrawn, carefully avoiding all disturbance of the snow. Then the sealer remains silently and patiently listening for a seal's " blow." On hearing the second or third " puff," the spear is forcibly 244 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Struck through the snow to the seal-hole, the harpoon penetrating the unseen seal's head. The seal instantly dives, and runs out the AN KB(4UIMAIIX ANU UIS 8KAL-D0O. full length, say six to ten fathoms, of the line that connects the har- poon to the harpooner. The seal's breathing-hole is then "un- snowed" and enlarged to the size of the main, when the prize is drawn forth. Thus seal-holes are found and seals captured during the long winters of the North, Among the Innuits just referred to as now arrived were Ugarng, Ebierbing, and Tookoolito ; and I was glad to find them well, though the latter two had suffered considerably since I had been with them. Tookoolito informed me that a short time after my departure from Cornelius Grinnell Bay, the Innuit "Jack," while out seal- ing, had nearly lost his life by falling through the ice into the swiftly -running tide. He only saved himself by catching his chin on to the edge of some firm ice just as the current was sweeping INNUITS DRIFTED TO SEA ON ICE. 245 him under, but his gun, powder, and every thing else belonging to him was carried away. She also told me that the angeko, whom I have formerly mentioned as being so lazy, had, with his two wives and this same "Jack," nearly perished by being driven out to sea on some ice that broke away. They had gone on a sealing excursion several miles up the coast, northerly and east- erly of where I had spent my time during the trip of January and February. All at once the ice on which they were became de- tached, and away they drifted to sea. In a few days wind and tide set the floe back again, and thus they escaped a terrible death. Ebierbing related to me several incidents of the fearful expo- sure of his Innuit friends, who had, at various times, been swept away from land on the sea-ice. In the winter of 1859, the Innuit " Samjoson,''^ and a party of fifteen others, were out walrus hunting on the ice in Frobisher* Bay, when a gale came on, and drove the ice out to sea. Escape was impossible. On and on the ice moved. The despairing In- nuits erected an igloo, and then awaited their fate. The cold was so terribly severe that most of the dogs perished. Two survived for some time, but had finally to be eaten as food. Thus for tliirty days the Innuits continued, until at length the ice upon which they were floating united to some near the land, and they were enabled to reach an island in the bay. Thence they got upon the main shore, and returned to their families alive, but such skeletons in form that they were hardly recognizable by their IViends. One of the party, from weakness, had fallen into the sea, but was taken out again, his garments immediately freezing hard upon him. The Innuits Sharkey, Kop-e-o, whom I called " Dick," and most of those now at the lower village, were of this com- pany. Another incident mentioned to me was that a party of Innuits a few years ago went out on the sea-ice walrus hunting, and, br- ing driven away from land, were unable to reach it for ihrer movths ! Fortunately for them, however, they did not suffer as the others had done. Walruses were caught, and thus they were enabled to exist. Not a winter passes but similar occurrences take place amonj^- the Innuits. Indeed, during our stay in Rescue Harbor several persons were carried away on the ice, but in a day or two after- ward succeeded in getting ashore again. 246 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Numerous anecdotes of remarkablp escapes were at different times related to me by the Innuits. One or two may be aptly brought forward here. The following was told me by Tookoo- lito. In the spring of 1857, a company of Esquimaux, natives of Northumberland Inlet, were far out on the floe, by open water, (or the purpose of whaling. A whale was at length seen mov- ing leisurely along within striking distance, when the Esquimaux succeeded in making fast to it by four harpoons, each of which was fastened by a ten to fifteen fathom line of ookgook hide to a drug made of an uncut sealskin inflated like a life-preserver. By some incautious act of one of the harpooners, one of his legs became entangled in the line, and quick as thought the whale dragged him down into the sea out of sight. His companions were horror-stricken, and for a while all around was still as death. The whole party earnestly peered out upon the blue waters far and near, looking for the reappearance of their comrade. They I)aced to and fro ; when at last a shout came from one of their number — "The lost is found!" — which brought all to one spot. The circumstance that led to this fortunate disc6very was the sight simply of the finger-tips of one hand clinging to the top edge of the floe. The rescuers, on looking over the verge, found the almost dead man moving hio lips, as if crying for aid, but hi.s voice was gone ; not even a whisper responded to his most des- perate struggles to articulate. Another minute, it was certain, would have sealed his fate — an ocean grave. It seems that, on coming up from the "great deep," the unfor- tunate harpooner had attempted to draw himself on to the floe, but this he was too enfeebled to do. When this whale turned flukes, as it instantly did on being struck, it went down perpen- dicularly for soundings, as the Mysticetus (Greenland whale) gen- erally does. Its great speed, and the resistance of the " drug," with that of the drag of the victim's body, caused such a strain upon the line that it parted. On this very fortunate moment the buoyant " drug" shot upward like an arrow, bringing with it its precious freight — a living soul. A few weeks after, this same whale, with the four harpoons fast to it, was found in drift ice dead. The Esquimaux state that whenever a harpoon penetrates to the flesh of the whale, it will surely die. Harpoons struck into the blubber, and remaining there, will not prove fatal ; it is only so when it goes through the blubber into the " krang" (flesh). INCIDENTS OF PERILS AND ESCAPES. £47 Another incident, but of a most fatal character, occurred not many years ago in Field Bay. A party of Innuits were out in two oo-mi-eus (large skin boats) when a whale was struck. The line, in running out, whipped around a leg of the harpooner, in- stantly tearing it from the body at the hip-joint ! The shock capsized the boat and all that were therein. The sea all around the vic- tim became thick with owj (blood). A landing was early sought and eftected, but the poor creature soon died. The following sad accident was also related to me : Koo-ou-le- arng's wing-a (husband) was killed, when Ebierbing was a boy, at Kingaite, in Northumberland Inlet. He was out sealing near the base of the high land (Kingaite signifies high land), when an avalanche of snow came suddenly upon him, not only overwhelm- ing him, but a large extent of ice, carrying it and him down, fai' down into the sea. Being missed, he was tracked to the fatal spot, but no other traces of him were ever discovered. While on this subject I may as well relate one or two occur- rences narrated to me by whaling captains, which show that white men often do go through seven perils, and endure the same sort of life as the Esquimaux. Captain Sisson, on one Occasion, told me of a shipwreck that occurred in September, 1853, forty miles north of Cape East, in Kamtschatka. The crew were obliged to remain about eleven months on shore, living among the natives in a perfectly helpless condition, and without any thing of value. Yet they were well treated, and soon acquired the habits of the natives, eating the same food, and living in the same manner ; and finally, without the loss of a man, came away quite fat and healthy. Again, another case may be mentioned as reported to me. In the fall of 1851, Captain Quayle, of the ArClelland, whaler, from New London, entered a harbor in Northumberland Inlet, but, not meeting with success, it was proposed that some of the ship's company should winter there with a view to commence whaling in the spring, if that should be practicable. The first mate, now Captain S. O. Budington, and W. Sterry, with ten other volun- teers, agreed to do so. Except the first officer, the whole were single young men. The understanding was that the McClelland should return for them by the next July ; and meanwhile provisions, two boats, and various other effects, were placed on shore for their use. The twelve men now went to work to make preparation for 248 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. their stay. A house was built of stone, filling in the walls with turf, and snow on the outside, making a total thickness of six feet. The roof was made of sealskins sewed together and placed on poles. For a window, which was in the roof, intestines of the whale answered well. The stove served for cooking and heating, and coal had been left for fuel ; but this becoming exhausted by the end of December, an admirable substitute was found in some skeletons of whales, which were discovered frozen in the ice some thirty miles distant, and were transported to the house by means of dogs and sledges. The bone burned well, being full of oil, and it was easily cut up with an axe. An incident connected with the transport of this bone is wor- thy of record. One day in February, a younger brother of Cap- tain Quayle, with a companion, set out for the bone depot on a dog-sledge. On their return a furious snow-storm came on, and the dogs, as well as the men, lost their way. Darkness over- taking them, they determined to rest till morning under the lee of an island, but during the whole night it was a terrible battle for life. The only salvation for them was in pounding each other, wrestling, tumbling, kicking, etc. Occasionally the " death-sleep" would be found creeping over them, when all their strength and resolution were called into action in the manner just described. The next day they arrived in safety at the house. The stock of provisions left with the party was exhausted be- fore any ship arrived, but whale-meat, seals, venison, and ducks were found in abundance. The natives also were very kind, sharing with them whatever game they found. Thus they lived until September, 1852, when Captain Parker, in an English whaler, took them away. On March 27th another man came near being frozen to death. Strangely enough, it was Bruce, the very companion of the unfor- tunate Brown ! It appeared that Bruce, who was still under attacks of scurvy, had again gone to the Innuit settlement at Oopungnewing, but one morning suddenly determined upon returning to the ship, Esquimaux "Bob," with whom he was staying, insisted upon his remaining that day, as the weather was too bad. But no; Bruce would go, and at once started off alone. Seeing that the white man was apparently bent on his own de- struction, or did not know what he was about, the dark-skinned but spotless-hearted and noble-minded Esquimaux "Bob," being SEVERE EFFECTS OF A SNOW-STORM. 249 himself unable to leave, engaged an Innuit woman, whom we call- ed Bran New, to accompany Bruce. The good creature readily did so, and by her means (as Bruce admitted) he was enabled to reach the vessel in safety. Another circumstance occurred, which, though not very seri- ous in results, might have proved so, had it not been for my dog Barbekark. On the 28th of March Mate Eogers started for the whaling depot in Frobisher Bay. He had with him sundry articles re- (^uired for spring operations, and a sledge and dogs, driven by Koojesse. Among the dogs was my Greenlander, Barbekark. They left at 6 A.M., the weather then moderate ; but at noon it was blowing a hard gale from the northeast, with thick-falling snow, which continued during the day. At half past nine in the evening one of the ship's officers, Mr. Lamb, going upon deck, heard the cry of dogs, and soon found that Mr. Rogers was returning. In a few moments, to our aston- ishment, for the gale was severe, he and Koojesse, with the sledge, arrived alongside, and soon afterward the mate was down in the cabin, but so completely overpowered by exhaustion that he could hardly speak. His face was the only spot, in appearance, human about him, and even this was covered with snow-wreaths pelted at him by the ruthless storm. After sufficient time for restoration, he related the incidents of the past fifteen hours. It appears that, as they passed from Chap- oU Inlet to Field Bay, at about 1 o'clock P.M., it blew quite a gale, and the air was so filled with snow that they could hardly see the dogs before them. Uere Koojesse advised that they should build an igloo, and remain in it until the end of the gale, but Mr. Rog- ers thought it better they should return home to Rescue Harbor, after resting a few minutes, and refreshing themselves with some snow-water. This, with some difficulty, they obtained, and at two they started back for the vessel. At first they got on pretty well as far as Parker's Bay,*kecp- ing the ridge of mountains running southeast and northwest on their left, and within sight. On reaching Parker's Bay, they then struck across the ice toward the ship. This was almost fatal to them. Esquimaux dogs are often unmanageable when it is at- tempted to force them in the teeth of a storm, and so it proved now. The leader of tlie team, a dog belonging to the Innuit Charley, lost his way, and confused all the rest. Tlic snow-storm 250 ARCTIC KESEARCU EXPEDITION. was upon them in all its fury, and men, as well as dogs, were be- coming blinded. Presently the leading dog directed the team to- ward some islands near the head of the bay ; but, on approach- ing them, it was seen that Barbekark was struggling to make u different route, and these islands convinced the two human minds that dog sagacity, when known to be true, was best when left to itself in such emergencies. Accordingly, Barbekark was allowed to have his own way, and in a short time he led them direct to the ship. I asked Mr. Rogers what they had intended to do if the vessel could not be found. His reply was, that when it became dark, Koojesse had once proposed to stop for the night on the ice, and, to insure as much safety as possible, they were to throw them- selves among the dogs, cover themselves with the two bearskins they had, and thus try to preserve life until daylight would help to show them where they were. The end of this adventure was, that Koojesse remained so far blind for days that he could not see to do any thing; and Mr. Rogers's face, in its uncovered portions, had actually turned to a deep dark red, while the shielded parts were perfectly white, thus showing what contrasts these Northern storms can paint in one short day. A lesson to be gathered from this, as I then thought, and still believe, is to allow the natives to do what they consider best in such times. They thoroughly understand the way to prepare for and withstand the warring elements of their own regions, and it is well for white men always to heed their advice, however unrea- sonable it may seem to be at the time. On the 8th of April the cooking apparatus and other material were moved up from below, where they had been during the whole winter, and thus what we might call symptoms of spring (though there is no real sjmng in those regions) presented them- selves. But here a few extracts from my diary at this time may be suitable. ''Aiml 8(h, 1861. This P.M. the party of eight which left the Georrje Henry last Sunday for Frobisher Bay, to trade for walrus meat, returned. They were accompanied by the Innuit Sharkey, a man as dark-colored as a negro. A large quantity of walrus meat was obtained, which furnished us with abundant fresh food for ourselves, and plenty for the dogs. To-day we had venison for dinner. MARTIN FllOIUSIIER'S EXPEDITIONS OF 1570-8. 251 The First T'radilionary IJistnry gained from the Esqnimaux relative to Frobisher's Expedition. About the 1st of April, 1861, there was quite an intelligent Esquimaux, named Koojcssc, in the neighborhood where I was (Rescue Harbor), who occasionally, in his coininunicatiors, made reference, in a vague way, to a certain matter which at first exci- ted but little of my attention, and yet, in the sequel, it will be seen that it related to what was of the most important character. I had several conversations with this Esquimaux in the presence of Captain Budington, who, being more proficient at that time than myself in the Innuit vernacular, assisted me as interpreter. This native spoke of a time long, long ago, when kod-lu-nas (white men) built a vessel on an island in the bay lower down (Frobisher Bay). Spoke also of brick (" mik-e-oo-koo-loo oug" small red pieces), timber, chips, etc., as having been left there. The idea of a vessel having been built in those regions seemed too improbable to be entertained for a moment. So unreasonable did the story appear of constructing a ship in such a perfectly woodless country, that T thought it a waste of time and paper to make a record of it ; therefore what transpired in the first two or three intcrvicvvs vvith the Esquimaux Koojcssc, in relation to this subject, is not in my original notes. Finally, in a few days, I began in my reflections to connect the Esquimaux report with the time when Martin Frobisher made his discoveries, and simul- taneously commenced to make record of whatever was stated to me in subsequent interviews. The commencement of said notes is under date of April 9th, 1861. I now extract them from my original journal, as made im- mediately after an interview with the Esquimaux Koojcssc on the P.M. of same date : *' Among the traditions handed down from one generation to another, there is this: that many — very many years ago, some white men built a ship on one of the islands of Frobisher Bay, and went away. " I think I can see through this in this way : Frobisher, in 1578, assembled a large part of his fleet in what he called ' Countess of Warwick Sound' (said to be in that bay below us), when a coun- cil was held on the 1st of August, at which it was determined to send all persons and things on shore upon 'Countess of Warwick Island ;' and on August 2d ordors were proclaimed, by sound of 252 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. trumpet, for the guidance of the company during their abode thereon. For reasons stated in the history, the company did not tarry here long, but departed for ' J/eto Incognita^'' and thence to EngUmd. " Now, may not the fact of timbers, chips, etc., etc., having been found on one of the islands (within a day's journey of here) many years ago, prove that the said materials were of this Frobisher's company, and that hence the Innuit tradition? " In a few days I hope to be exploring Frobishcr Bay. I may thereafter have something to add to the matter above referred to." I now turn to other matters in my journal. "April 9(h. As I write, the main cabin table of the ship is sur- rounded by natives playing dominoes. There are Ebierbing, Miner and his wife, Charley and wife, and Jim Crow with his wife. " The gale of to-day has been terrific. One would have to con- test sharply with the elements in order io breathe, if outside of the cabin for a moment. In the afternoon an alarm was raised that Sharkey's wife had fallen down tiie forecastle steps and was dy- ing. It seems that in mounting the stairs leading therefrom with her semi-white child, she was taken with a fainting-fit, in which she fell. Though no bones were fractured, yet she was so severe- ly injured that she has been in a critical condition ever since, and some of the time unconscious. '■^ April 10th. This day Sterry left for Frobisher Bay settlement, to remain a while among the natives. Parties are now very oft- en going backward and forward, conveying ship's material to the intended whaling depot at Cape True.^' In the evening there was another magnificent display of the aurora. At 9 o'clock a long line or arch, extending from the west to the east, began to rise from the horizon. I noticed a peculiarity of this night's dis- play worthy of record. When the centre of the auroral arch had risen about three degrees above the horizon, a long line of narrow black clouds rested parallel with the base of the aurora. Slow- ly the arch mounted the heavens, the clouds all this time becom- ing less and less black, until they were finally exhausted. The clouds were as dark as ' thunder-clouds' when I first saw them. In half an hour the stars shone brightly where they had been. They seemed to follow upward as the arch lifted. When the arch became elevated 25°, other belts of aurora sprang into action, so * So named nftor Beiijiuiiin C. True, of Cincinnnti, Ohio. Cupe True is in Int. (J2°B;i'N.,l(.ng. 'wo and a half inches wide, part of a coffee-pot, preserved meat canisters, an oak- en bucket in good order, and several pieces of wood, all, as I aft- erward conjectured, formerly belonging to the " Traveller," an En- glish whaling vessel lost three years previous near " Bear Sound," about thirty miles nearer the sea. It was at this place we lunched, and bad the pleasure of finding abundance of water on the rocks to quench our thirst. Ilere, on a point of land called by the Innuits Evictoon, was a native mon- ument such as they usually erect on prominent places. As we were about to resume our march, two seals were discov- ered in the sun near some cracked ice. Immediately the old man started off to try his rusty gun npon them, at first stumbling hur- riedly over some broken ice that intervened, and then proceeding very cautiously. When within forty rods he lay down upon his front, and kneed, footed, and bellied himself along, not unlike the movements of the seals he was afler. But, as in Miner's case, a moment afterward his prey, taking the alarm, rose up, and with a plunge instantly disappeared. The old man jumped up, crying aloud E-e-e-uk ! and walked on. As we traveled forward the mountains of Kingaite loomed up in magnificent grandeur, and, on looking at them, something struck me as it had done when first viewing the place in August, 1860, that more than mere land existed there. It seemed as if a huge ice ridge ran along parallel with the coast, uniting mountain with mountain and peak with peak. Seeing how intent I was upon this, Kokerjabin readily answered my inquiry as tc what it really NIGHT-TRAVELING ON THE ICE. 263 was. In reply, she said " it was solid ice, and never had she known it to change its appearance, either in summer or fall." This was enough. I immediately concluded that there were glaciers over there, and certainly the one I then looked at ap- peared to be not less than fifteen to twenty miles long. But, as I afterward visited the locality, I shall reserve farther mention of them till I come to another part of my narrative. About dusk we reached the south point of the island Nou- yarn,* where we had expected to find an Innuit village, the place of our intended visit. But, to our disappointment and vexation, the settlement was not there. Within two hundred fathoms of the shore we saw sledge-tracks leading from the land out into the bay, and thence northward and westward. Here, also, on the ice, we saw two double-barreled guns standing up in the snow, and an Esquimaux lamp ; but not a human being besides our- selves was there. We knew not what to do. Dark and cold, we should undoubtedly suffer much if unable to get shelter. What could we do? We might, for a while, follow the slcdgc-tracks, but not long, as the darkness was upon us. Eight o'clock, and we had neither shelter, food, nor light. Even to keep warmth in us for a moment, it was necessary to be in action, or the chances were we should freeze; and to remain so all night, we might per- ish. Sterry proposed that we should return to the igloos we had left in the morning, but to this Kokerjabin and myself objected. The best thing we could do, as I thought, was to follow the tracks, and, if not meeting with Innuits, build an igloo and make the best of it. This was agreed to, and again we started forward, Koker- jabin leading the way, which she did most admirably, guiding us here and there among numerous inlets, without once being in the. wrong or confused. The moon had now risen from her sea-bed, but looked as if guilty of some wicked act, being both horribly distorted and red in the face ! But the higher up she got, the better was her ap- pearance, and the greater was her usefulness to us night-travelers. At length, about half past ten, and when we had gone some three miles farther, Kokerjabin brought us to a small island called An- nu-ar-twig, where she expected to find the Innuits. We listened ; we strained our eyes for an igloo light, but in vain ; not a sound, not a glimmer of any thing we had hoped for met our ears or our eyes. Still, we determined to bo thoroughly * Lnt. 62° 55' N., long. 65° 62' W. 264 AUCTIC RESEAIiClI EXPEDITION. convinced, and accordingly tried to get on shore. This, however, oven in daylight, would have been a difficult task where there was so great a rise and fall in the tide as thirty feet, but at night wo found it a terrible job. At last it was accomplished ; and looking about for the igloos, and meeting with none, it was finally settled that we should have some supper before trying any thing more. Our stock of food consisted of a small piece of "salt junk" and some few pieces of hard bread, all of which I had bi'ought from the vessel with me; nevertheless, every mouthful we took was delicious to our hungry appetites. But the thirst! how could wo ([uench it? Wc had nothing by which to make snow-water, and we had vainly searched the rocks around for some. Every parti- cle was firmly locked up in the fingers of zero cold. " T/iirst, most thirsty I" wo had to say,'and, in sooth, to remain thirsty. The next thing wc did was to build an igloo, where, at all events, something like shelter could be obtained, and warmth by clustering together. Four human stoves, besides as many heat- ing, smoking tobacco-pipes, would help to make us passably com- fortable ; and so wc found. Kokerjabin, the inastcr-mason, aided by Sterry, built the igloo out of a snow-bank which faced a ledge of rocks running length- wise of the island — under the lee of which, fortunately, it was — while I and the Innuit boy went upon the higher part of the land seeking for water. The igloo completed, on lying down wc found that it was too limited, and that wc should be inconveniently and perhaps injuriously cramped ; therefore a remedy must be found, and this was by cutting " pigeon-holes" in the snow-bank/or ou7- feet. This answered, and soon we were fast asleep, though upon a bed of snow, and at my back a snow-bank. Toward morning I felt myself getting very cold, and, to warm us up, it was judged wise for all to smoke, which was done most agreeably. I then cut a doorway, and crawled out of the igloo on all-fours. The wind was fresh and piercing from the east, and, to get some circulation in our veins, Sterry and I made a run to the top of a hill. There wc had a good look around, and then de- scended, but on arriving at the igloo wc found Kokerjabin and her son gone. We therefore followed in their tracks, and soon overtook them on the highest point of the island. Presently Kokerjabin discovered, through the glass, some igloos on an isl- and farther on. To these we immediately determined to bend our steps, more especially as Kokerjabin said she knew the island AUUIVAL AT SAMl'SONVS. 265 well, and had often resided there. It was cnWcd Ak-koo-m'c-slmt- /ou-jnti'j* One hour's walk across the ieo brought us close to it. Ice boulders, however, always between the sea-ico and the " ice-foot," gave us the usual trouble in getting on shore ; but, this over, we soon found ourselves, to my great joy, among familiar laces. The first I saw was Sampson, who, taking mo kindly by the hand, scj^ueezcd it, hugged it, 2^iit(cd it, and then led me into his igloo. It was an early hour for them, and his family were still in bed, yet they all arose and heartily welcomed me. Food, and especial- ly ivakr, was plentifully put before me, and I need not say how gratefully I partook of both. Four largo igloos were there, each, occupied by two families. The bay being partially frozen over, the men were preparing to start on a grand scaling excursion to- ward Kingaite, which hero seemed to bo only about twenty-five miles ofl". Two of the women accompanied this party, and before they left I arranged with Sampson to stay in his igloo until he returned. His wife was sick, and with her two daughters she re- mained to " keep house." Sampson and his party started about 8 A.M. of Thursday, April 25th, and at noon. a snow-storm raged so furiously that some fears were entertained for their safety ; but they returned in the after- noon, having captured one fine seal. A feast, as usual, followed ; and here I noticed for the first time an Innuit custom of giving to the youngest child (he seat's eyes. That night, while in bed, I re- ceived a rather unwelcome visitor in the following way : It has been justly said that "knowledge is often ])Hr.sucd under dilTiculties," but in my ease the knowledge I desired came to me instead of my seeking it. I was desirous of making myself acquainted with the tides in that region, and took every opportunity to investigate the subject; but, on the night in question, between seven and eight o'clock, the tide came poiiriiKj into the i(/loo, threatening destruction to all with- in it. The full moon, by Greenwich time, was, April 24th, 10 h. 23 m., and, consequently, the highest rise of the tide would here be some forty hours after. I had watched for it during some time, and finally retired to my tuktoo furs, little expecting it would show itself to me by my bedside in the way it did ; but such a proof was enough. From it I ascertained that the rise of tide at full and change was thirty feet. Fortunately, the tidal flow and * In lat. 02° 5G' N., long. 05° 57' W. 266 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. abrupt inundation produced no serious damage, though it gave work to the females of the igloo, who hurriedly secured the fur dresses and other valuables from the salt water. It was strange to me to see them cleaning or currying the seal- skins. The mouth of the female currier served as a deposit for all the scrapings, and the tongue was kept in constant requisition to keep free the scraper, a dish being by to receive the contents of the mouth when full. The scrapings of board, hands, etc., all went first to the mouth, then to the dish, and thence to the dogs I The storm continued during the following day, and I remained where I was, studying more and more the hnbits of this strange people, and endeavoring to give some elementary instruction to the children. Our breakfast and dinner were both excellent ; for the former, raw frozen walrus, of which I had a piece for my share of about five pounds, and at the latter, seal. The portion of this allot- ted to me and Sterry was the head. We complied with the In- nuit custom. Sterry took a mouthful, then passed it to me, and when I had done tlie same it was returned to him, and so on. Of course fingers were all in all. No knives and forks are found among the Innuits; fingers and teeth are more than their equiv- alent. When the meat, skin, and hair were all dispatched — even the eyes, except the balls, which were given to the youngest child of Sampson — we " tapped" the brain. I was surprised at the amount of a seal's brains, and equally so at the dcliciousness of them ! The skull was almost as thin as paper. Shoot a seal in the head and it dies. Shoot a walrus in the head, and the damage is to the hall, which immediately flattens, without effecting any injury what- ever to the walrus. Later in the day I attended another feast in the igloo of Koo- kin, who had invited his old mother, Shel-hc-ar-pinrj, and two oth- er venerable dames, and I must say that if my friends at home could then have seen how like an Innuit I ate, they would have blushed for me. First came a portion of seal's liver, raw and warm from its late existence in full life. This, with a slice of oohsook (blubber), was handed to each, and I made away with mine as quick as any of the old adepts. Then came ribs inclosed in tender meat, dripping with blood. How ambrosial to my palate ! Lastly came — what ? THE SEAL-FEAST.— AUTHOR BECOMES AN ANGEKO. 267 Entrails^ which the old lady drew through her fingers yards in length. This was served to every one but me in pieces of two to three feet long. I saw at once that it was supposed I would not liice to eat this delicacy; but, having partaken of it before, I signified my wish to do so now ; for, be it remembered, there is no part of a seal hut is good. I drew the ribbon-like food through my teeth Innuit fashion; finished it, and then asked for more. This immensely pleased the old dames. They were in ecstasies. It seemed as if they thought me the best of the group. They laugh- ed — they bestowed upon me all the most pleasant epithets their language would admit I was one of them — one of the honored few I Soon as this round of feasting was ended, one of the old lady Innuits drew my attention to her afilictions. Sic bad a dreadful pain in her side and back, and had been badly troubled for weeks. Before I had time for thought, she drew off her long-tailed coat over her head, and sai there before me nude as Nature made her. The laughing face and the joyful, ringing voice of the old lady were now exchanged for expressions indicative of suffering and the need of sympathy. The whole party present wove now absorb- ed in the subject before me. I put on as long and ugniflcd a face as I could in this trijing scene, and, as much was evidently ex- pected from mc, I was determined no disappointment should fol- low. Therefore I proceeded to manipulate the parts affected, or, rather, plotoed my fingers in the rich loam — real estate — that cov- ered the ailing places. The result was that I gave notice that she should live on, eating as much fresh seal and walrus as she want- ed, drinking water several times a day, and applying the same amount at the end of every ten days that she had drank in that time to the outside of her body by the process of scrubbing, which I there and then practically explained to her and the others. I told her, moreover, that as the suk-e-neir (sun) was day by day getting higher and higher, she must keep herself warm and dry, and then, in my opinion, she would soon be quite relieved. So caressingly did I finger the old lady's side during the deliv- ery of my impromptu advice, that she declared I was the best an- geko she had. known, and positively she felt much better already. Placing on her coat, she then jumped up and ran away to her own igloo as lively as a cricket. During tue time I was stopping in Sampson's igloo I made ev- ery inquiry possible about the tradition concerning ships entering 268 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. the bay a long time ago ; but I was unable, from my then slender knowledge of tbeir language, to get intelligible answers. There- fore I had still to remain patient about it. The following day, Saturday, April 27th, wc commenced our re- turn ; but it was cold and stormy, and, as I bad left some of my fur dress at Annawa's, I sought to borrow reindeer trowsers, mits, and socks there. These I readily obtained ; but the first-mention- ed article being too small for my dimensions, one of the Innuit women slit them down with her oodloo till they did fit, after a fash- ion. But, on attempting to move, I was as if in a vice. I could not walk, I could not run, nor could I seat myself; I could only ivaddle and tumble down ! On the ice in front of the igloos I tried to get on, but you, my reader, should have been there to have seen and enjoyed the sight I presented, and to have heard the ringing, side-splitting laughter of this generous-hearted and kind band of Innuits at the grotesque figure I cut in old Seko's skin- tight breeches. A sledge drawn by dogs had been loaned to us, and upon this I threw myself; but, long after our departure, on my looking back, I could see the merry lot slill watching, and ap- parently enjoying the fun I had created. Our sledge went Hist, the dogs being good ones, with an excel- lent Innuit driver, Ning-u-ar-ping, the son of Sampson and Kok- erjabin. Ou the smooth clear ice, which extended from Samp- son's village to where we had first halted on our way up, our progress was very rapid. As wc passed the island where we had spent the night before meeting the Innuits, I saw our igloo still standing. A little farther on, I observed to the north a peculiar mark — the work of Nature — by the westliide of the entrance to Newton's Fiord, standing out boldly upon one of the mountains. On inquiry, I found it was considered by the natives as a nmark- able spot, known to them from time immemorial. It was called Tnrj-ec. AVhosoever would know what this means, let him confi- dentially ask an Ksquimaux man. After some miles' travel we came to a depot of walrus flesh, made by Sampson's people on a previous occasion ; and here, after loading from it, the sledge left us on its return. Sterry and I, Kokerjabin and Captain, then walked on, and, after a tedious journey of about fifty miles — though dircol only some twenty from the village — we arrived at Twerpuljua at {• P.M., so thoroughly fatigued as to be right glad of the friendly beds immediately offered us. < THE SNOW VILLAGE.— A SUNDAY PICTUllE. 271 Next morning I arose mucli refreshed, and took a walk on the neighboring hill. The ice had before parted and left the bay al- most free, but I was greatly astonished at the immense number of ducks I saw swimming about. For miles and miles around the waters were literally covered and black with them, making such a thundering, indescribable medley of sounds as quite st;irt- led me. Talk about the " absence of life" in these regions of ice and snow ! Why, before my eyes were countless numbers of animated creatures, from the winged fowl of the sea to the seal and walrus ! What do all these creatures live upon ? Why are they here ? The waters must be alive with other innumerable creatures ! Soon "great whales" will be here, and for what? L« there food for them here too ? At 9 A.M. I left Twerpukjua, and directed my way to Anna- wa's, at the island of Oopungnewing, where I arrived in due course, and was kindly welcomed as usual. Noodleyong was busy sewing skins together for making the summer tupic or tent, and Annawa, with other men, were out sealing. In the afternoon these latter returned, and we had the customary feast in the open air. It was Sunday, and I could not help thoughtfully looking upon the scene before me. There was the snow village of pure white . igloos, with their load-lings and took-soos embellished by trophies of the walrus hunts. A score of laughing, happy, untutored, un- x;ivilized, and " unchristianized" sons and daughters of the North were around or near mc. There was a group on my right com- mencing the feast; three women, that had been out gathering M]-) (seaweed) ivs an article of food, coming up from the beach ; Annawa and his sealing company drawing up their kias on the floe-ice seaward ; open water near by covered with ducks ; Blind George standing in front of Bob's igloo, facing and welcoming the sun's warm rays ; a number of boys drawing another captured seal across the rugged ice lining the sliore ; and one young urchin with a brace of ducks newly shot. In the narrow distance were some icebergs and floating mnsses of ice, and behind, as well as tar off, the bold mountains, wliieh gave a grandeur to the view. The next morning, April 29th, accompanied by Esheeloo and his wife Oonga, I started on foot for the ship in Eescue Harbor, a distance of about twenty miles. Part of the way was over broken ice, and this made the jour- » 272 AllCTIC KESEARCII EXPEDITION. ney both tedious and difficult. At noon we were at the foot of Bayard Taylor Pass leading to Field Bay, and after a lunch we walked on over the land, stopping a moment at the half-way sta- tion for a drink of delicious water, and arrived on the other side at 4 P.M. Field Bay had firm ice upon it, and over this we traveled as rapidly as we could, finally reaching the ship at 8 P.M., having been just twelve hours on the way. oon-i.oo, OB woman'^ knife. The iIln?tratioii oiip lliird the Kize of the originftl. In the hnnila of nn rpquiiimux woinnn, this simple iiiatruinent, mnde of Iwne nnd iron (the iirc Biiii. ply edged with Iron), i« equivalent to tlie kuife, hatchet, ecrnper, and shears of clvUlzntiun. AUTHOR PABTIALLY SNOW-BLIND. 278 CHAPTER XVI. Snow-blindness. — Month of May. — Ship released from her Ice-fetters. — A spirited Scene. — Sledge-dogs at full Speed. — "Bob," the Angeko. — Falling Igloos —An- ecdote of Bob. — Terrific Encounter with a Bear. — A Toss in the Air. — A power- ful .Innuit. — The aged Woman, Ookijoxy Ninoo. — Tookoolito Interpreter. — Im- portant Information. — Traditions relating to White Men very many Years ago. — Ships with many People had arrived. — Two Innuit Women taken away. — Five Innuits killed by White Men. — Five White Men among the Innuits. — Written History confirmed by Oral Tradition. — Barrow's History of Arctic Discovery. — Relics of the White Men to be found. — Wood, Coal, Brick, Iron. — Innuits must possess the Truth concerning Franklin's Expedition. — More Information. — The Dreaded Land.— Preparations for Summer Work. — Illness of Tookoolito. — Ex- ploration at Head of Field Bay.— Dangerous Traveling on the Ice.— Pools of Water formed. — Arrive on Land.— Extensive View.— A beautiful Grassy Plain. —Comparison with Greenland.- Lands behind the Coast, at this Part, very fer- tile. — Reindeer numerous. — Return to the Ship. Directly after my arrival on board, on April 29th, 1861, 1 had a good wash, which I stood much in need of. I then found that snow-blindness had come upon me. During the journey I had felt some difficulty in sighting the way, but did not experience any pain. Now, however, my face burned as if on fire, and my eyes were intolerably painful. My cheeks were much the color of tanned hide, and all about my features gave unmistakable ev- idence of exposure to severe weather. That night I again enjoyed the luxury of taking off my skin dress, which I had not been able to do for the previous eight days. But my snow-blindness, which is attended with most ex- cruciating pain, allowed me little rest, and the next morning found me so bad that I could hardly do any thing. It was now the last day of April, 1861, and many symptoms of a change from winter to summer (the only real changes during the year in arctic climes) were observable. True, a heavy snow- storm was prevailing, but the weather was much milder than it had been, and the ice was beginning to yield. In the morning the ship was released from her ice-fetters, and had lifted herself up full two feet, showing how much lighter she had become through the consumption of stores since the period of freezing in. "S 274 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. On the 3d of May, which was a beautiful and warm day, Ebi- erbirig and Tookoolito arrived, with all their effects, intending to stay with me until I was ready, as previously arranged, to leave for King William's Land. They were well, and had got through the interval since I had last seen them in the usual precarious manner, sometimes with, sometimes without success in sealing, so alternately with or without food. The following morning we had another snow-storm, which con- tinued with slight intermissions for several days. On the 6th of May, Captain B , wishing the dogs to be well fed previous to being employed in transporting the whale-boats, stores, etc., over to the whaling depot at Cape True, asked several of the Innuits to take them over to Oopungnewing, where there was plenty of walrus skin and meat ; but one and all refused. They said "the weather was too bad;" whereupon I volunteered to go with any Innuit that would accompany me ; but, finally, the gale having abated, Captain B himself determined to go, tak- ing with him two of the Esquimaux, who at last consented to ac- company him. There were twenty-five dogs, and these we had harnessed to a sledge by the Innuits Charley and Jim Crow, who were ready to start. Captain B went ahead, and I, following with the sledge, soon overtook him, but not until I had seen a good specimen of dog-driving. At the beginning it was slow work to get the dogs under way, but, once on the start, away they went, pell-mell together, and swift- ly, over the fair white snow. It was amusing to see my Green- land dogs, with the others, weo,ving and knitting, braiding and banding their traces into knots and webs that apparently would defy human devices to unravel. One dog would leap over the backs of a dozen others ; another dog, receiving the snap of the thirty-feet lash in the driver's hands, thinking it the work of his nearest neighbor, would seize him, as if to repay it by a ten-fold severer snap ; then the rest would join in the fray, till all became involved in a regular dog-fight. It was a picture to sec these twenty-five dogs flying almost with the speed of wind over the frozen surface of the deep snow. But, after joining the captain and resigning to him my place, it was not quite so pleasant for me to return. I had but light garments on, and the weather was still severe. However, the distance was not far, and I reached the ship without much difficulty. TERRL'J'IC ENCOUNTER WITH A BEAR. 275 Captain B , to m;y astonishment, returned on tl|e following day at about 10 P.M. He had duly arrived at Oopungnewing; was hospitably received in Bob's igloo for the night ; and, having supplied himself with a load of walrus meat — indeed, he might have had half a dozen loads, so abundant was the supply at that time — and preferring to return rather than stay where the igloos were about tumbling down, owing to the moist weather, he came back in the midst of the continuous storm. The labor of getting over the Bayard Taylor Pass was very severe to him, especially at the steep ascent on the other side. He could only make two or three steps before he was obliged to rest, each step carrying him thigh deep into the soft snow. With the captain came " Bob" and his wife " Polly ;" but this time Bob came in a professional capacity. lie was a doctor, or, rather, an angeko, and now oame to visit the sick mother of Sharkey. The following day I chanced to witness him engaged at the work. I was walking among the ruined igloos, which, having fallen down, had been nearly all replaced by skin tents, when I heard the peculiar sound of ankooting close by. It was near the tupic of Ar-iung-img, mother of Sharkey ; but I did not enter, for generally no one but the family is allowed to be present on such occasions ; and, though one can not help pitying the superstitious feeling that directs them to this, yet why should any of us make light of it? They are earnest in the matter, and only follow the customs of their fathers for generations before them. Possibly, however, it may yet be the honor of our country, through some noble-hearted Christian philanthropist, to bring them to a knowl- edge of the one true God. The Innuit Bob was a man that every one of us highly esteem- ed. I have before alluded to him in warm terms, and I will now mention a circumstance which belonged to the romantic incidents of his life. In the winter of 1854-5, he and a companion, with some dogs, attacked a large polar bear. Ills companion's name was Se-nik- too — " Moose," as called by the whalers. lie afterward, in 1858, died at Allen's Island, leaving a widow — the Puto whom I have frequently named. Moose fired at the bear, when it rushed toward them. Bob stood his ground until he too had fired, and then immediately turned and ran; but the next moment the bear was upon him, 276 ARCTIC llESEARCn EXPEDITION. and, seizing his left shoalder in its jaws, threw him high over its head, as if he had been a mere bag of feathers I Bob fell about four fathoms off, and was getting up, when the bear again laid hold of him, this time by the leg, and gave him another toas. The dogs, however, now managed to keep the animal at bay; and Moose coming to Bob's aid, they bravely renewed the attack, un- til at length these courageous Innuits succeeded in conquering the brute. Unfortunately, they lost him after all their trouble, for the ice broke, and the tide swept their prize away. I saw the scars of the wounds inflicted by this monster. Bob taking off his reindeer dress in the main cabin to gratify me. Captain B said that the laceration was terrible, for he had seen it a few days after the occurrence, and administered such re- lief as was in his power. Bob was undoubtedly a powerful man, muscular, full-breasted, of great nerve, and firm as iron. When he stripped I had a good opportunity to see this, and he allowed me to take the measurement of his body.'' On the 10th of May Ebierbing's grandmother, the aged Oohjoxy Ninoo, arrived with him from Cornelius Grinnell Bay, where he had been to fetch her to his home. I was anxious for a conver- sation with her, as she could give me much information, from na- tive traditions and personal observation, about the Frobisher ex- peditions of 1576-8 ; but it was not until the next day that I had the opportunity. Next morning I went on shore at Cooper's Island, a small isl- and near the George Ilcnry in Rescue Harbor, where Ebierbing. Tookoolito, and Dokijoxy Ninoo lived in tuples. Our conversa- tion commenced by my leading the way, through Ebierbing, his wife acting as interpreter, which, aided by my own increasing knowledge of the language, enabled me to quite understand the old lady's narrative. Ebierbing said that " he well recollected, when a boy, seeing, on an island near Oopungnewing, owj (something red, which I inferred, from his subsequent explanation, to mean hrkhs) and coal. At that time he knew not what those things were, but when he visit- ed England in 1855, he there saw bricks, and understood their use for the first time. Coal he had seen on board an English whaler previous to that, but not until years after his noticing these things on the island. He said he used to play with these bricks, piling them up in rows and in various forms, as children often do, and also marked stones with them, and was delighted to see FROBISHERS EXPEDITIONS. 277 the red strokes. He also remembered Innuit women using the bricks, whenever they could be obtained, for polishing the brass ornaments worn on the head. Likewise he could well remember how some of his aged people told him that many — a great many years ago, ships came into the Bay Tin-nu-jok-jniig-oo-se-onfj/" (Fro- bisher Bay). This was Ebierbing's statement. I now proceed to that of his grandmother. But, before doing this, let me describe the scene as it was at the time of my receiving the following im- portant communication from her: Her tupio was very small — only large enough to hold herself comfortably in a sitting or reclining posture — but I managed to squeeze in beside her, seating myself at her right side. Tookoo- lito was outside by the entrance, facing the old lady and myself. oil) OOKUOXT MNOO NABltATINa TUB TBAIUTIONS UF UEB I'KOl'LE. The position of Ookijoxy Ninoo was usually a reclining one, she resting her elbows on the pillow-place of her bed, and her chin upon her hands. By her side was her little kood-lin (lamp), and in front of that was a small board, on which was a handful of baked beans given to her by some one from the ship, and also 278 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. a few broken pieces of sea-bread which Tookoolito had saved for her. Thare was, besides, abundance of walrus blubber and skin for her to eat when hungry. During the time I was in her tupic and listening to her words, a favorite grandchild of hers, E-ter-loong, was just outside, fre- quently crying for food. The old lady gave the child a part of the beans and biscuit ; but his noise was a great interruption. The weather was very cold — bitterly so ; and I often requested Tookoolito to take my place inside, but she preferred my retain- ing " the seat of honor." The following is the substance of her statements to me respect- ing the objects of my inquiry. Placing before her the sketch-chart formerly drawn by Koo- Jesse, and showing her Cornelius Grinnell Bay, Singeyer, Field Bay, tracing along down through Bear Sound to Cape True, thence to Oopungnewing, I asked her if she recognized those par- ticular parts. Her reply was that she did ; and immediately ask- ed, "What is the name of the island where Koochooarchu (Samp- son) was?" meaning the island where myself, with Sterry and Kokerjabin, visited Sampson on the previous April 27th. I re- plied, " Ak-koo-wie-shut-too-pingP "That," said she, "is where I have spent much of my life — many of my best days. But the place where the kodlunas (white peo- ple) of the ships landed is called Niountelik, an island near Oo- pungnewing." She then proceeded to say that upon Niountelik she had seen ' bricks, and coal, and pieces of timber of various sizes. She had also heard from old Innuits that, many years before, ships had landed there with a great number of people. She remembered, when a little girl, hearing Innuits tell about these people hav- ing killed several Innuits ; also that farther down, or on Kingaite side, as the old lady spoke it, they took away two Innuit women, who never came back again. * I asked her if she knew how mani/ ships had come there? Her reply was. They came every year ; first two, then three, then am-a-su-ad-lo oo-moo arch-chu-a (many — a great many ships). " Five Innuits were also killed by the kodlunas" (white people). Not feeling quite certain of the meaning of her answer, I repeated the (|uestion. How many ships came here? Tookoolito, on receiv- ing the answer, gave it to me in this way : " She said ' they came every year,'" and then ceased from repeating more of the old TRADITIONS OF THE INNUITS. 279 woman's words. This puzzled me ; I knew not what to make of it. I began to think that perhaps whaling ships had annually visited the great bay. But, after a few moments, I found Tookoo- lito had ceased speaking merely to consider the true interpreta- tion of what the old lady had said into my vernacular. She con- tinued by saying, "First two, then two or three, then many — very many vessels." This was clear ; and I immediately took up the only book I then had with me bearing upon the subject, " Barrow's Chrono- logical History of Arctic Discovery," and, turning to the account of Frobisher's voyages, I read what had been given to the world by means of writing and printing, and compared it with what was now communicated to me by means of oral tradition. Written history tells me that Frobisher made three voyages to the arctic regions as follows : First voyage in 1576, with two* vessels. Second voyage in 1677, three vessels. Third voyage in 1578, fifteen vessels. Traditionary history informs me that a great many, many years ago the vessels of white men visited the bay (Frobisher's) three successive years: First, in two vessels. Second, in three vessels. Third, in many vessels. But this is not all that traditionary history gave me on that day. Written history states that Frobisher lost five of his men on his first voyage when conveying a native on shore. Oral history told me that five white men were captured by Innuit people at the time of the appearance of the ships a great many years ago ; that these men wintered on nhore (whether one, two, three, or more winters, could not say) ; that they lived among the Innuifs ; that they afterward built an oomien (large boat), and put a mast into her, and had sails ; that early in the season, before much wa- ter appeared, they endeavored to aepart ; that, in the effort, some froze their hands; but that finally they succeeded in getting into open water, and away they went, which was the last seen or heard of them. This boat, as near as I could make out at the time, was built on the island that Frobisher and his company landed upon, v\z.^ Niountelik. I have here put down a part only of what I recorded in my „ * Sec Appendix, No. 8. 280 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. journal at the time, and, consequently, much of it will be found to have been the result of some slight mistake in what I then un- derstood ; but, coupled with the previous statements of Koojesse, and the information which I afterward obtained, it will be seen that the main facts about Frobisher's Expedition are well sup- ported by evidence. The old lady farther informed me that frequently, in her life- time, she had seen wood, chips, coal, and bricks, and large pieces of very heavy stone, on the island of Niountelih. This again puzzled me. What could "very heavy stone" mean ? I asked her " what kind of stone it was," and to this she replied, " It was black, and very heavy. No Innuits had ever seen such kind of stones before." This at once led me to conclude that the heavy stones were iron ; and still more so when Tookoolito observed, " I think, from what the old lady says, these stones were very heavy, a small one being as much as an Innuit could lift. I think, perhaps," added she, " they were iron." " And so do I. By-and-by, I will see to it," was my reply. The information thus obtained seemed so clearly to bear upon Frobisher's Expedition that I determined, as soon as I could, to visit NiounteUk, and ascertain all about the matter. I thought to myself, if such facts concerning an expedition which had been made nearly three hundred years ago can be preserved by the na- tives, and evidence of those facts obtained, what may not be glean- ed of Sir John Franklin's Expedition of only sixteen years ago ? The singular fate of La Perouse and his expedition was unknown to the civilized world for thirty-eight years, and then brought to light only by the exertions of one individual, Captain Dillon, an English master of a merchant ship ! Here, too, we have the first intimation of the fate of Frobisher's five men — after being shroud- ed in mystery for 285 years — all but determined by personal in- quiry among the natives I Why not, then, be able to ascertain from the same natives — that is, of the same Innuit race — all those particulars so interesting, and many of them so important to sci- ence, concerning the Lost Polar Expedition? I was now con- vinced, more than I had ever been, that the whole mystery of their fate could have been, and may yet be easily determined with even the smallest well-directed aid. At all events, I felt that, while life and health should be spared me, I would devote my- self to this undertaking. ^ THE DREADED LAND. 281 Sucli was the current of my thoughts at the time I was in the old lady's iupic and listening to her words ; and, let me add, such are now my thoughts, and, so far as may be permitted, such are my intentions. In continuation of my interview with the aged Innuit, I asked her why Innuits, as I had been informed, do not now live upon the land beyond Bear Sound, extending eastward between the waters of Frobisher Bay and Field Bay ? To this, as interpreted, she said, " A great many years ago, before I (Ookijoxy Ninoo) was born, the Innuits all around these bays were very many. The number of Innuits on Ki-ki-tuk-ju-a {Lok^s Land of Frobisher) and the other islands in that direction was great; but at one time they were nearly all out on the ice, when it separated from the land and took them out to sea. They never came back, nor did Imy Innuit ever hear of them again. Since then, Innuits never live there, nor ever visit the place." As she spoke about this catastrophe she did so under evident feelings of constraint and horror ; and when I asked if she had ever visited it, her emphatic reply was, '' Nevei-f Never I" This accounted to me for much apparent mystery which I had noticed respecting the region in question whenevej' I addressed any Innuit upon the subject. They could not — or would not— give me any information about it ; and when I once tried to get a company of natives to go there with me, all refused. Yet ev- ery year they make frequent passages, backward and forward through the channel Ts-se-hi-suk-ju-a (called by Frobisher Bear Sound), dividing the "ill-fated land" from the main. The old woman farther added that the Innuits had lived on that land, as Innuits do live — that is, moving about wherever food can be had — both before and after the white men's ships came years ago; but, since the great disaster occurred which swept so many of her people away, no Innuits would go there. After eliciting all the information I then could from the old woman, I left her, with great astonishment at her powers of mem- ory, and the remarkable way in which this strange people of the icy North, who have no written language, can correctly preserve history from one generation to another. ' Nine generations had passed away since the visit of Frobisher, yet now, on the 11th of May, 1861, 1 received from an old wom- an, probably a hundred years old, statements which I could not 282 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION, otherwise than believe to be facts concerning him and his co-ad- venturers ! I was astonished, and also, in a measure, pleased, for it gave me stronger hopes than ever of my being able thereafter to obtain all the knowledge I required concerning the expedition of Franklin. Meanwhile I determined upon revisiting Oopung- newing, and going to Nionnt.'^lik as soon as possible. At this time all oa board the George Henry were very busy in certain matters connected with the ship, such as refitting and pre- paring her for the time when she might proceed to other quar- ters for whaling operations. Boats on sledges, men and their ap- . parel, sleeping-gear, and other necessary material, were daily sent off to the working depot at Cape True, in Frobisher Bay, so that on the 17th of May only three white men remained in the vessel. I now decided to make a sledge exploring trip up the Bay of Frobisher, as I could not depart fcr King William's Land till about the 1st of August, the earliest practicable moment of bein^ able to commence my journey by boat to that locality. At this time Tookoolito was suddenly taken ill. It was on the evening of May 18th, when, as I was engaged upon my charts, Tookoolito aiding me in the Innuit names, I noticed she sudden- ly dropped her head, and, as I thought, to reflect upon something. But Sharkey's wife, who was sitting opposite, soon convinced mc to the contrary by springing toward her. I saw what the matter was in a moment. Tookoolito had fainted ; and, when aided by such means as were in my power, she soon revived, bat a general prostration, accompanied by terrible pains in the head, ensued. As it was necessary for her to have immediate rest, she was placed in my berth, and the little girl, Ookoodlear, sent to attend upon her. Meanwhile I had another patient suddenly on my hands. Di- rectly Tookoolito revived, Mam-rrm-yat-che-ung, wife of Sharkey, was seized with bleeding at the lungs. The poor woman, like many of her people, especially those of her sex, was in a rapid de- cline, and, as I thought, had not long to live. She had gone upon deck, where I found her coughing and vomiting up blood most fearfully. The snow-wreath at the gangway was crimsoned as if a bear's jugular had been opened there. I at once gave her a glass of alum water, which checked it after she had bled for some twenty minutes. She then went down to my cabin, and attended upon Tookoolito until the return of Ebierbing, who was greatly affected at the condition of his wife. EXCURSION TO THE HEAD OF FIELD BAY. 283 Poor Tookoolito continued very sick for some days, but, with such care and relief as could be given to her, she ultimately got well enough to go about as usual. Perhaps the cause of her sick- ness was overexertion in moving their tupic from one island to another the day previous. It had been heavy work for her, but she had to do it, for the custom among Innuits is to make the women perform all such domestic and ordinary labor. Before leaving for my exploration of the Probisher waters, I determined to examine the head of Field Bay, the bay where we were now at anchor I commenced this work at 9 A.M. of the 20th of May. The Innuits Ebierbing and the angeko, with Mam- ma-nar-ping, one of the wives of the latter, were with me, though the two former only went part of the way, they leaving me to chase some reindeer, the tracks of which we found near the foot of Grinnell Mountain. I myself, with the woman as guide and attendant, continued the trip alone. The traveling was very bad, in consequence of the snow hav- ing melted and formed several pools. Over these pools, which almost uniformly covered the sea-ice, was a thin coating of fresh- water-ice, not uniformly of sufficient thickness and strength to bear our walking upon it ; indeed, but a small portion of it was * firm enough to hold us up. Whenever it gave way, down we would go, ankle deep, and sometimes deeper. Then, too, the daz- zling glare of the ice on the upper part of the bay caused addi- tional care and labor in walking. Every few rods we saw seals out on the ice, basking in the sun's rays. At 4 P.M. we made land, and there stopped to rest and dine. I had abundance of hard bread and a large piece of salt pork, and at that season of the year there was plenty of fresh water to be obtained. Thus we were able to make a good repast, and; after a short stay, proceed on our journey. Our way led us toward Alden Mountain ;* and we had to go over an extensive plain, deeply covered with snow, which is at the head of Field Bay. Almost every half dozen steps were sure to be succeeded by a downfall of no pleasant character, and it was severe to me, besides being injurious to my box chronometer slung at my side. Never did I experience more annoying travel. As we proceeded it became much worse. Every few steps, down, * A monntftin at the extreme head of Field Bay, which I have named after Cliavlcs Alden, of Newbiirg, New York. 28i ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. down we went, oftener waist-deep than otherwise. Sometimes the surface snow would appear firm, and then I had hope of all being right for our getting forward, but the next moment we were sink- ing to our hips in some treacherous spot. Occasionally I would be making fair headway, when my Innuit guide would go (fown, and, while trying to help her up, the snow-crust would give way, and I then followed suit. It seemed as if it took three hours for us to make one mile. After much struggling we arrived at a small rocky hill, and, ascending it, an extensive view was before me. On the west of us I could see a lakelet, long and narrow, that extended in a northerly direction to the base of Alden Mountain. This lake- let, on my way back, proved to be influenced in its waters by the sea for two or three days at the periods of high tides — full and change. It was now 8 P.M. We were both much fatigued, and yet it would not do to remain. Not a blanket had we, nor an}'- article that would serve to keep warmth in us during the night, which, however, was now daylight all through. The heavens we.ve cov- ered with portentous clouds, and many circumstances led me to ' conclude it most advisable to return ; but I could hardly determ- ine in what direction it would be best to go. There were the plains, but they were covered deeply with the treacherous snow. As I reflected, a passage in the " Good Book" came to my mind : " Be angry, and sin not ;" but, whether I sinned or not, God only is my judge. This, however, I must confess : that as I walked on that treacherous snow-crust, every now and then going down, down, down, my temper at length would fly up, uj), up, making the scale-beam koep dancing for full three hours, until some fair walking gave ease to my weary limbs and quiet to my ruffled soul. On a careful survey of the routes we could follow, I finally de- cided upon going to a low ridge which was farther west of us and free from snow. That ridge extended in a line running to the S.S.E., and lay iiv about the direction I wanted to go. To reach it we had to traverse along an abrupt sand-bank bordering the lakelet already mentioned. We then came to a beautiful grassy plain quite destitute of snow, and over which it was a perfect lux- ury to travel. All my weariness and pain were quite for -otten in walking across this carpet of Nature. It was surrounded by rugged, sombre, rocky mountains, and consequently appeared to FERTILE PLAINS.— NUMEROUS REINDEER. 285 me like an oasis in the great desert For nearly one year I had sighted nothing but rocks, rocks, rocks, here, there, and every where, piled into mountains of such varied and horrible shapes that they seemed as if created to strike terror into the heart cf man ; and now to fall thus unexpectedly upon a plain covered with grass, yielding so friendly and " down"-like to i.iy aching feet, particularly under the circumstances described, was enough for me to express my great joy and admiration. It is said that the name Greenland was given to that land by the Norwegians and Icelanders because it looked greener than Iceland. I could, therefore, on my trip across that grassy plain, fully appreciate their feelings on beholding a greener land than their own. Yet many a one going directly from the United States and visiting Greenland would from the bottom of his soul exclaim, " This Greenland I Then, indeed, have I come into a Paradise, but into that of which Milton speaks : " ' o'er the back side of the world far off, Into a limbo large and broad, since called The Paradise of Fools.' " With reference to the plain I crossed over, Tookoolito after- ward informed me that in 1860 a company of Innuits, herself and Ebierbing of the number, spent three weeks in passing over the land amid the mountains, and on other plains of great extent westward of Cornelius Grinnell Bay. Their trip was made for a reindeer hunt. On their way, and running northwest from the plain near what I have called Alden Mountain, was another plain, extending in every direction as far as the eye could reach. This convinced me that in general arctic navigators know but little about the interior of the northern country, Earely any thing but the coasts are seen and explored. On the trip I am now referring to I saw more level ground than since I left the United States. Nothing in Greenland that I saw could compare with it. Tookoolito also informed me that reindeer visit those plains in great numbers. On their excursion they killed as many as they wanted ; and so numerous were the deer that they might be com- pared to flocks of sheep. Much of the meat they had obtained during the hunt was left behind. The fawns were chased down by the Innuits and caught ; as she said, " their feet being dry, they could not run well. When the feet of tuktoo are wet, they can go much faster over the mountain rocks." 286 ARCTIC RESEAllCII EXPEDITION. From information I afterward obtained, the plains here spoken of appeared to be well known to our friendly Innuita as a breed- ing-place for the deer ; and the whole country between Frobisher Bay and Niountelik (a place in the north part of Northumberland Inlet) had been frequently traversed by several of the intelligent natives who visited us; but, unless discreetly questioned, it is rare for an Esquimaux to say much of binaself, his people, or his native land. It is only by degrees, and by a long association with them, that any one can elicit any material facts. At half past 10 P.M. we were on the top of another mountain. Here we had something more to eat ; and then, proceeding to the sea-ice, directed our steps toward the vessel. The walk was one of great labor, yet not so trying to the temper as that of some pre- vious portion of the day. At three o'clock in the morning we arrived on board of the ship, completely exhausted with the fatiguing journey, made, dur- ing eighteen hours, over a distance of about twenty-five miles. SUCCESSFUL DEEK-HUNT, 28'i CHAPTER XVII. • A successful Deer-hunt. — Venison. — Another Journey. — Sc-ko-se-lar Innnits. — The Land Pass. — Magnificent Scenery. — Countess of Warwick Sound. — Impor- tant Discovery. — Piece of Brick. — Relic of Frobisher's Exjxidition. — Sledge-drive in a Snow-storm. — A Whirl in the Snow. — An involuntary Slide. — Value of a Compass. — Safe Arrival on Board. — Anniversary of Departure from Home. — State of the Ice.— "Man-traps."— The Whale Depot. — Plenty of fresh Meat.- Stranger Innuits arrive. — A startling Tale. — Two Boats of White Men land on the Coast. — First Idea concerning thera. — After-knowledge of the Truth. — Loss of the English Store-ship Kitty. — The Locality of Sekoselar. — Innuit Informa- tion. — Head of Frobisher Bay. — Tradition of Parry's Voyage. — Old Innuits re- member visiting him. — Extract from his Narrative. — Sekoselar Innuits dislike civilization Food. — "Barbarous Stuflf." — Strange Dialect. — Physical Superiority of the Sekoselar Men. — • The following day, May 21st, 1861, Ebierbing and Mingumailo returned from their deer-hunt. They had been successful, hav- ing shot with a rifle of mine three deer, one of which was lost, and the other two were secured. It appeared that Ebierbing first shot one of a group of eight which they came across. It struggled and fell before he could approac'j the spot, but rose again and ran away. In a moment more, however, he managed to shoot anoth- er, and Mingumailo a third. Thus was secured to us several hundred pounds of fresh meat — venison. The deer were killed high up in the mountains, and the two hunters had to carry the carcasses (portions at a time) a distance of two miles down to the sea-ice, where they made a cache by piling on heavy stones. What they could carry of it to the ship they did, and all of us on board had an excellent feast. About this time we heard that some Innuits bad arrived at Sampson's settlement from the " Sekoselar" mentioned in a note at page 178. The news made me still more anxious to proceed on my exploring trip, but various causes tended to prolong my delay, and, even when ready for the excursion, I was unable to proceed farther than a day's journey. The Esquimaux are good as guides, as companions, as hunters and purveyors of food, but it is impossible to place any great de- pendence upon them in keeping faith as to time, or one's wishes 288 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. on a journey. They tvill do just as they please ; and if aught is seen that may serve tliem for food, they will away in chase, no matter how mueh delay is thereby occasioned in a white man's enterpriHe, or however great the loss and inconvenience. In my case, ubsolutely dependent upon them for aid in exploring, I could do nothing but exercise my patience to the fullest degree. Hence it was not until the 27th of May that I was able to start on anoth- er trip to the waters of Frobisher Bay. At that season of the year, traveling over the ice and snow- covered land by day was almost impossible. The slush and the numerous pools of water upon the former rendered a passage not only very difficult, but often dangerous ; and, upon the land, the fatigue occasioned was more than could be well endured. Night, therefore, was chosen for our journeys, unless occasion required us to continue on during the day. Accordingly, at 10 P.M. of the 27th of May I started from the ship with dogs and sledge, after having my outfit well attended to by Tookoolito. She was unable to accompany her husband, who had joined my company. The rest of my companions were two Innuit men and two women, one of them being Punnie, and the other a beautiful young woman called An-nu-tik-er-tung, wife of Kus-se-e-ung. Myself and the two women led the way, and in about an hour arrived where the upper village had been dur- ing the winter. Here we stopped to collect various things be- longing to the Innuits who were with me, and which they had left there when departing for Frobisher Bay. We also stopped at another spot not far off, and collected tent-poles, coverings, kia frames, buckets, skins, etc., making a very considerable addition to our already heavy load. It was an hour and a half past mid- night when we again started, but our foot travel was now good, the best of the season, the ice being firm during the night. During the walk I had an interesting conversation with Ebier- bing, who, among other things, told me of the great price the Sekoselar Innuits were willing to give for any articles of iron. A small piece of good iron, suitable for a spear-head, would procure a seal or tuktoo jacket from them, and with a needle one could purchase a deerskin. The Sekoselar Innuits can only obtain iron occasionally, when a communication is had with natives living on the coast. They still use bone needles, bows, and arrows. As we neared the land on the opposite side of Field Bay the sun was tipping the mountains with red. It was then nearly A RAGING SEA TEARING UP ICE. 289 half past 2 A.M., and I also noticed that clouds were hugging some of tlio high landa This indicated a coming storm. At 3 45 A.M. wo passed from the bay to the main land, and now it began to blow strongly from the southwest. I selected the lee side of some rocks and took several compass bearings, then pro- ceeded on my way alone, the rest of my party, with the sledge, having gone on before. I overtook them at the summit of Bay- ard Taylor Pass, and then together we began the descent on '.he other side. I have already spoken of this Pass, but each time I traversed it I could not help being transfixed with woi^dering awe. Near the western termination of this pass each side is walled by bold, crag- gy mountains, and the scenery there is truly magnificent. Well might I exclaim, as I did on viewing it. Great God, thy works are indeed mighty ! Shortly after, when we reached the frozen waters of the bay, the dogs and sledge carried us along past scen- ery ever changing and remarkable. While crossing this, I judged it to be Frobishcr's Countess of Warwick Sound. Our course this time, owing to a wide gap in the ice, led us to the north of Oopungnewing, as we intended to make for the low point of land called Twerpukjua; hence we passed the island at .some little distance. Here, when nearest to it, Punnie left us to go to Annawa's settlement; and after resting a while, employing the time in sealing, we again proceeded. Niountelik Island we passed about a quarter of a mile off, and then, at 10 A.M., we ar- rived at Twerpukjua. When approaching the shore-ice we met a party of Innuits with a sledge and team of dogs going to the vessel, having just come from the island where I had been April 25th and 26th, while staying with Sampson. Among them were Johnny Bull, his wife Kokerzhun, and Ncw-iver-che^ one of the most enterpris- ing and energetic Innuits with whom I was acquainted. They reported that the ice had broken up, and said it would be impos- sible for me to proceed on my journey by sledge. This I soon perceived to be the case. While consulting with them, I could see quite enough to convince me so. The wind was then blow- ing strong from the south. A heavy sea was at work tearing up the ice between Niountelik and Twerpukjua. To where we were, the distance from the raging, open sea was not two hundred fath- oms. It was a trial to me to give up this trip, yet I acted as I believe T 290 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. a wise man should, and accordingly determined to abandon the attempt and try it by boat. I therefore ordered our return ; but, as I wished to examine the islands of Oopungnewing and Nioun- telik, I proposed to Ebierbing that we should stay three or four days at Annawa's; and, to prevent our being encumbered with so much baggage as I had brought for an extended trip, told him to make a transfer of it from our sledge to John Bull's, who would take it back to the ship. While this transfer was being made, my eye accidentally caught sight of a piece of hrick^ among sundry odds and ends of Innuit articles brought from the upper village at the head of Field Bay. While looking upon it, I called to mind the story I had heard from old Ookijoxy Ninoo about relics cf this kind seen on Nioun- telik, and I at once asked Kusseeung a id Arng-mer-che-ung what it was. They replied, "Stone" — a stone that the old mother of the latter had given him a long ti'iie ago. I then asked from whence she got it, and both Inmvits immediately pointed to the island Niountelik, which was less than half a mile from where we stood. Ebierbing took this hright-colored brick from my hand, looked at it, and said, "That is the same as I have seen on that island," pointing to Niountelik. He then added, " Many of my acquaint- ances up the inlet (meaning Northumberland) have pieces of the .same kind that came from that island." My feelings upon seeing the piece of brick, and hearing what was said about it, may be easily imagined. There, in my hand, was undoubtedly a relic of that expedition which had visited the place only eighty-six years after the discovery of America by Columbus, since which time it has remained unknown to the civ- ilized world ! This relic, then, was more precious to me than the fjold which Frobisher sought there under the direct patronage of Queen Elizabeth. Until now no proof had existed that Frobisher and his expedition ever visited the particular bay or "straits" bearing his name ; but, from all that I had gathered from the in- formation given nio by the natives, and from what I had now seen, a strong conviction rested on my mind that it was so, and doubt was at an end. After stopping at Twerpukjua nearly three hours, I bade adieu to those of my Innuit friends who were going to Sampson's, and proceeded toward Annawa's at Oopungnewing. Johnny Bull and his party took their way to the ship, Ebierbing accompanying me. LINCOLN BAY AND BAYARD TAYLOU PASS. 291 When near Oopungnewing, we saw Punnie coming to meet us, and soon she gave us tbe information that Annawa and the whole settlement had gone to Og-bier-seer-o-ping (Cape True), and now not a tuple remained. Here again was another disappointment. [ had no tent with me, having left my own at the vessel, and it would not do to remain without shelter, as a gale was even then blowing, therefore we had no alternative but to return. Accord- ingly, we rejoined Johnny Bull with his party, and were soon on our way, at a swift speed over the ice, toward the land pass. Our backs were nearly to the wind and snow, and therefore our trouble from this source was far less than if Hieing it. The gale helped us greatly a part of the way back. It drove the sledge sometimes faster than the dogs could go ; thus occasionally they were dragged along instead of their drawing us. Besides this, the strong wind had closed the gap which we had been obliged to avoid in the morning, and we now traversed the ice as safely as though we were passing over a marbled floor. Soon afterward we came to the glare ice of Lincoln Bay,* which is on this (the west) side of the Bayard Taylor Pass. Here the wind and snow played fantastic tricks with the sledge, dogs, and all our company. We were in company with the other Innuits, but Joe, myself, and Johnny Bull were footing it while passing along this bay. Ilad the wind been against us all would have been well, but it came quartering on our right hand and at our backs, and this caused numerous eddies and snow-wreaths. Wo were ahead of the sledge, intending to jump upon it as it passed. After resting a while, on it came ; and, watching the op- portunity, Joe and Johnny were fortunately able to spring on, but I could not. Just as I made my attempt, a terrific gust sent . me whirling along for nearly a quarter of a mile over the glassy ice. Then my feet caught upon a firm snow-wreath, and I stuck ♦ There are three importnnt bays tlint mnko up from the ever-memoriible "Count- ess of Warwick Sound," wliich was discovered and so named by Frobisher nearly three centuries ago. The geographical position of this sound, as well as the nature and extent of Frobisher " Strait" (a misnomer, for it is a bay), remained unknown to the civilized world from the days of Queen Elizabeth down to 18fiO-2, when I had the good fortune to rediscover, examine, and determine much relating to Frobisher's Ex])editious of 1.170, 7, and '8. The three bays — iinjiorlant on account of their geographical and historical connec- tions — I have named, 1st. Lincoln Bay ; 2d. Victoria Bay ; and, 3d. Napoleon Bay, after throe distinguished personages of the present day, to wit, the President of the United States of America, tiie Queen of England, and the Emperor of France. ( Vide Chart.) 292 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. fast till I gathered my senses to look round and see where I was. It was snowing fast and furiously, and wlmt with that coming down, and that thrown upward by the wind, every object three or four fathoms distant was hidden from sight. Fortunately, the almost perpendicular side of a mountain that I had before noticed was within a distance that could be seen. From this I struck a course leading up the bay to the land-route. In a short time I had overtaken the party, which had been detained by one of the dogs giving out. Casting it off, I took a seat upon the sledge, and away we went merrily toward the Pass. As we drove along we were a curious sight to behold, for we resembled a living snow-bank. We ascended the Pass on foot, crossed the summit, descended on the other side, and again made the sea-ice of P'ield Bay. Here two more of our dogs gave out, and we cast them adrift, though they still followed us. We had nine remaining, antl this made a good team. We rested half an hour, then started again, the Innuits endeav- oring to find their way, as usual, by the previous sledge-tracks ; but we bad to go this way and that way, in and out among the numerous islands covering the head of the bay, until finally all traces of our route were lost. Nevertheless, they would have found a course to the ship, though, perhaps, with some delay and difficul- ty, but I saved all this by using my compass, and thus directing them which way to go, and by 9 P.M. we were on board, having been absent only 22f hours. The following day. May 29th, was the anniversary of our de- parture from the United States. My thoughts at that time I find mentioned in my diary as follows: " One year ago to-day the George Henry sailed from New Lon- don. It seems to me a short year, though spent in regions that, to many civilized men, would be repulsive, and would appear unqual- ified desolation. Still, I like this country — not as a place in which to spend all my life, if it be one of fourscore and ten years, but for work to be continued three or five years." On the following day, as there appeared to be some indications of its turning out fine, I thought of taking a trip to a place called by the Innuits $hig-eg-er. Accordingly, I procured the services of Ebierbing and started; but in two hours afterward there came on thick weather, and every indication of a storm. We had, therefore, to abandon the journey and return. While we were MAN-TRAPS.— STARTLING NEWS. 298 out, however, and I was engaged taking observations, I heuid -^ cry, "Mr. Hall I" I looked around, and saw Ebierbing, at a little distance off" crawling out of a hole in the ice into which he had fallen. I hastened to his assistance, but before my arrival he was out, and fortunately without any injury. As I have before mentioned, it is risky traveling on the sea-ice at this season of the year, on account of pools of water just be- neath a covering of snow. A traveler passing along over an ap- parently excellent route often finds himself unexpectedly floun- dering in water, and the cause of this danger may be explained in the following manner: I examined several of these " man-traps" — as they really prove to be — and found large leaves of seaweed within these holes in the ice. Any extraneous matter, such as this seaweed, stones, ashes, etc., put on the surface of the ice, absorbs the solar heat, and soon sinks down into the ice, forming a water-hole not only the size of the object itself, but encircling quite a space around. A driving storm may afterward cover the surface with snow, and thus make a perfect man-trap. Soon after our return on board there was an arrival from Cape True, where the Oeorge Hennjs officers and men were staying to prosecute whaling. I learned that they were all doing well in the way of fresh food, ducks, walrus, etc., being abundant. On the second day of June a party of Sekoselar Innuits, six in number, came to the ship, and we soon became very friendly to- gether. At first these natives said nothing very particular far- ther than that they had visited the Hudson Bay Company's ships while passing up and down ; nor should I have obtained any other news had it not been elicited almost by accident. In fact, unless there be some motive to engage them in conversation with strangers, the Esquimaux are seldom communicative. It is as if the knowledge which they possess ought not to be given away unless for some especial reasons. The Innuits, as a race, are naturally reticent They are often distant and reserved, and only by kindness, tact, and gradually leading up to a subject can any information be obtained from them. Thus it was not until the following day, when aletter arrived from Captain B , that I learned of these Esquimaux being acquainted with some facts concerning lohiie peoj)le dying at Sekoselar. The captain had heard it so reported by other natives, and wrote to me that I might make some inquiries about it. 294 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. On the receipt of this letter I immediately sent for Ebierbing and Tookoolito to come on board and act as interpreters. I then invited the two Sekoselar men (by name Ook-goo-al-loo and Too- loo-ka-ah) into the cabin, and opened a conversation, in which both participated. Tookoolito was the principal speaker, and she interpreted very well my own questions and their answers. That her interpretation was correct, and equally so their information, has, since my return home, been proved by facts, which at that time I was unacquainted with. Indeed, I then misapplied the story, firmly believing it to bear upon the. lost Frankiin Expedi- tion. What that story was may be seen in the following sub- stance of all which was related to me through Tookoolito : The Sekoselar Innuits said that "nokodlunas (whites)*had ever been to or ever died at Sekoselar, but two years previous to this time two kodluna boats, with many oars (meaning many oars- men), arrived at a place farther down (at Karmowong*) — so they, the Sekoselars, had heard — and there stopped a while ; how long, whether one or two days, was not known. That these kodlunas had plenty guns, plenty powder, plenty shot, plenty balls, and plenty small casks of provision. They had many tuktoo skins (reindeer furs) to wrap around their bodies and their feet. " To make their boats not so deep in the water, the kodlunas (whites) took out omasuadlo (a great many) balls and placed them on a rock. The Innuits at that place, and in the vicinity where the kodlunas landed, thought the balls were soft stones. They supposed the whites had come from ships that had been lost or wrecked in the ice. " When these whites left the land they went farther down to- ward the big sea. " The whites had arrived at Karmowong in the ftill of the year, one day when the weather was very bad, wind blowing very hard, and snowing fiist. It was very cold too. "The Karmowong Innuits thought the whites had obtained their tuktoo furs of the Sekoselar men. The skins had on the winter coat of the tuktoo. None of the ko'llunas died there. They all went away in boats, and the Innuits never saw or heard of them more." • From farther questions that I put, and which were readily an- * I think Karmowonrj to be the islands called by Baffin " Middle Savage Islands,'' north side of Hudson's Strait. Indeed, it may also include quite an extensive bay in that neighborhood, which the Esquimaux sketched for me as being there- % NOT OF FRANKLIN'S LOST CREWS. 295 swered, I concluded in my own mind that the kodlunas must have been at Karmowong in the fall of 1858, and the way the Seko- selar Innuits heard of it was by a native man who had seen the whites and the two boats. Now, upon receiving this information, I at length came to the conclusion that it referred to some of Franklin's lost crews. Two boats of white men going toward the great sea, and apparently subsisting upon Innuit food, with reindeer skins for wrappers, and other such material, would seem to indicate that a few of the long- lost voyagers had at last made their way from King William's Land and Boothia toward the goal of their ultimate deliverance. The experience I had already gained of Esquimaux life proved to me what white men could endure under the exigency of circum- stances. There was myself — not reduced to any such absolute necessity as the poor English voyagers undoubtedly must have been — yet capable of sustaining and even of enjoying life among the natives. How much more so, then, the unfortunate men of Franklin's wrecked ships? To me the matter seemed conclusive, although I could not give implicit confidence to what I had heard until personally testing the truth by examination. On my return to the States, however, I find that the whole sto- ry must have had reference to the loss of a British vessel called the A7W//, which was crushed in the ce of Hudson's Strait in the fall of 1859, and the crew obliged to > cape by two boats. Some of the particulars of their history remarkably co'ncide with the in- formation given to me by the Sekoselar Innuits, as may be seen in the Appendix No. 9. Another ine^ance of the fivithful preservation of traditions among the Innuits, and also of the accuracy of their reports when communicated freel}'-, is to be found in the following additional in- formation given to me by the Sekoselar natives. In seeking to obtain the truth concerning the two boats and white men, I induced Ookgooalloo to sketch me his "country" on paper. He did so, and by that sketch I was convinced that Se- koselar was not the King's Cape of Fox, as I had at one time sup- posed, but lies east of it, extending along the coast on the north side of Hudson's Strait about two degrees ; say from longitude 75° west to longitude 73° west. This, then, would fill the blank on Parry's chart of that locality, and give to it, as the Innuit showed me, a deep bay, flanked by low lands, with a narrow isth- mus between the waters of this bay and the head of Frobisher Bay, thus shown so to be, instead of a " strait." 296 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. The sketch which was drawn by Ookgooalloo extended from above Fox's Farthest down to King's Cape, and thence along the north shore of Hudson's Strait to North Bay, where the upper Savage Islands are situated. " North Bluff" is adjoining that bay, and is called by Innuits Ki-uk-tuk-ju-a, and King's Cape, Noo- ook-ju-a. When the Sekoselar party left home in the previous year, 1860, they traveled, as Innuits generally do, vei-y sloiv. In the fall they arrived at the head waters of Frobisher Inlet, and Ookgooalloo marked upon his sketch the track they pursued from Sekoselar to the place where they commenced the land route across the isthmus. The head waters of Frobisher Bay they call- ed See-see-ark -ju -a, and into it ran, according to his account (which I afterward found true), a river of fresh water, sometimes very large, and containing salmon in abundance. During the winter of 1860-1 this party of natives made their way down the bay till they came across " Sampson" and his people, at the place which I had visited a short time previous. Ookgooalloo then told me "that ships did not come in sight at Sekoselar, nor at Noo-ook-ju-a, but his father, Koo-ook-jum, had said that many years ago tivo ships came close to Noo-ook-ju-a (King's Cape) and Sekoselar, and that he, Koo-ook-jum, with many other Innuits, went out to the ships in kias and oomiens, and went on board." Now these two ships could be no other than Parry's, in his ex- pedition of 1821-23, and consequently it was full forty years since the occurrence now mentioned took place. Parry's account is as follows : ''July 31s/, 1821. Latitude 6-^° 01', longitude 75° 49' west. In the afternoon Captain Lyon discovered and made the signal for an Esquimaux oomiak coming off from shore under sail, accompa- nied by eight canoes. We tacked to meet them, and lay to half an hour for the purpose of adding to our stock of oil. In this boat were sixteen persons, of which number two only were men, an old and a young one, and the rest women and children. In the features, dress, and implements of these people we saw noth- ing different from those of the Esquimaux last described (those of the Savage Islands), but they were better behaved than the oth- ers, with whom our ships (meaning the Hudson Bay Company's ships) have had more frequent intercourse." Again, under date of August 1st, Parry continues: " We beat to the westward, between Nottingham Island and TKADITION OF PAUUY'S SHIPS. 297 the north shore (King's Cape), the distrnce between which is about four leagues, and the latter fringed with nrmerous islands. In the course of the morning several canoes and one oomiak came off from the main land, containing about twenty persons, more than half of whom" were women and children. They brought a little oil, some skin dresses, and tusks of the walrus, which they were desirous of exchanging for any trifle we chose to give them." In this account we see a complete verification of the statement made by Ookgooalloo as to his father's visit to the only ships known to have been near his own " country." And I the more particularly allude to it because of many other reports given to me concerning the past, all of which, in my opinion, have received equal confirmation. The natives from Sekoselar were not partial to civilized food, especially Ookgooalloo and his wife Pittikzhe, for they had not tasted any before. We gave each of tht a a mug of coffee and some sea-biscuit. They tasted it — spit it out — tried it again and again, and finally the man contrived to " worry" it down ; but the woman gave it up, declaring, in her own Innuit wa}', that " such stuff was not fit to eat." Though repeatedly urged to participate in the regular meals served to the Esquimaux on board, Pittikzhe positively declined tasting any more " such harharoits food." I found that the Innuits of Sekoselar had a very peculiar way of speaking — that is, with a slow, drawling tone. Their words are " long drawn out." The natives in our locality made fun of this, and it still more convinced me that there is a considerable vari- ance between the dialects of different bands of the Esquimaux. Another thing I noticed was the physical superiority of these men over those living around Field Bay, and along the coasts visited by whaling ships. Whether all of the Sekoselar people were equal to those whomi saw I am unable to say, but "Sampson," who was also a native of that district, showed, as I have before said, to similar advantage when compared with the Innuits in our vicinity. After making these men and women several presents, for which they expressed much gratitude, they departed at 5 P.M. on their return to Sampson's tupic, then near Eviduon, about one day's journey N.W. of Oopungnewiiig. 298 ARCTIC KESKAUCII EXl'EDiriON. CHAPTER XVIII. Journey to the Unknovi, or " Dreniled Land." — Slender Outfit. — Abundance of Senl-ineat soon taken. — i>..'l Weatlier. — Sylvia Island. — Lujiton Channel. — Jones's Tower. — / IJiitterHy. — THi)ic Encampment. — Magnificent Iceberg. — Dine on raw Seal. — New LanU — Kemarkable Gap. — Cape Daly. — Hummocky Ice. — Ancient Piles of Stones. — Discover a new Channel. — Dr. Kane's Channel. — Immense number of Seals. — Gr tat Slaughter. — Koodloo still fears the "Dreaded Land." — Charming a Seal. — Ab'.ndance of Animal Life. — Arrive at the extreme Land. — Ascend a high Mounttin. — Ancient Monuments. — Extensive View. — Davis's Straits. — Frobisher IJay. — Meta Incognita. — Resolution Island, and high Land to the North. — Sudden a])pcarance of a Steam-ship. — Disappointment. — Mount Warwick. — A Bear-hunt. — North Foreland. — Return Journey. — Mode of making Traces and Walrus Lines. — Note-book Lost. — Its Recovery. — Heavy Snow-storm. — Encamp on n large Island. — Anpient Dwellings of Innuits. — Rapid Journey back to the Ship. — Dangerous Traveling. — Ice breaking up. — Safe ar- rival on Board. — Means of sustaining Life in these Regions. On Wednesday, the 5th day of June, 1861, a day or two after the departure of the Sekoselar Innuits, I prepared myself for an- other trip, intending this time to visit what the Innuits term the "Dreaded Land," which comprises all the islands eastward of Bear's Sound and Lupton Channel, between Frobisher Bay and Field Bay. As was necessary, I left on board the ship some in- structions how to find me and my companions in ca.se the ice, which was becoming very precarious, should break up, and leave us on some of the islands unable to get away. My intention was to fall back upon the land should the ice break up, and then, if we had to be sought, it would be necessary to look for us some- where between Hall's Island and Bear Sound,* Oil the 5th of June, at about three o'clock in the afternoon, in company with Ebierbing and Koodloo, I left Rescue Ilarbor, and set out for the " Dreaded Land." Our sledge was drawn by six dogs, just half the number that such a journey required. Our progress was slow ; for, besides the wai; i" of a sufficient team, we saw many seals, the ice being dotted over with them, and the In- ♦ Hall's Island, hit. G2° 33' N., long. «4° 00' W., and Bear Sound, lat. 62° 31' N.. long. (34° 50' W., were so named by Frobisher; the former after Christopher Kail, master of the Gabriel, of the expedition of I.'iTG; the latter after James Bear, inns- ter of the Michael, one of the expedition ships of ir>77. DlLLON MOUNTAIN.— LOK'S LAND.— LUPTON CHANNEL. 299 nuits consumed iimch time in making their peculiar cautious ap- proaches (elsewhere described), which are always necessary in order to take these animals. Koodloo is a good sealer. Having selected his game, he succeeded in crawling up to within thirteen fathoms of the seal, and shot him in the head. In five minutes we who were on the sledge arrived at the spot where our prize lay by his hole, when a general dog-fight took place. The weight of fresh meat thus obtained being no less than 200 pounds, we found ourselves in the predicament of the man who bought the elephant. What should we do with our seal ? Final- ly, we fastened it behind the sledge, dragged it to a convenient place, and cut it up ; took with us a part of the meat and blubber for present use, and deposited the remainder en cache — that is, we buried it under snow by the side of a hummock, and tarried a while to have a raw seal-feast. In the evening, after our repast, we resumed our journey, pro- ceeding at first in the direction of Dillon Mountain,* at the cast end of "Lok's Land,"f but changed our course at ten o'clock on account of hummocks, and now proceeded due south toward Lup- ton Channel.:}: Some time after midnight wc made our first en- campment on the ice, and lay down to repose upon a couch of snow. At 10 30 A.M. of June 6th we resumed our journey, and soon after observed a seal upon the ice ; but, as we were to windward, ^it scented us, and down it went. We were still among hum- mocks, and enveloped in fog. Before noon the fog lifted, and wo found ourselves in sight of land near Lupton Channel. We stop- ped a while opposite the entrance to this channel for a seal which * This prominent and peaked mountain I have named in Iionor of n wann fiiond of arctic exjdorations, J. D. Dillon, of London, England. It is in hit, Gli° 32' N., and long.(J-t° 12' W. + The land which I think I have identified as the one so named by Frobisher in honor of Michael Lok, one of the earliest, warmest, and most liberal supporters of his (Frobisher's) expeditions of 157G, 7, and '8. "Lok's Land" is an island on the east side of Bear Sound and Lupton Channel, and extends easterly eighteen nautical miles ; its width is twelve miles. It is called by the natives A'i-^i-.were only twenty hours coming from near Dr. Kane's Channel) and the dangerous character of the ice over which we had come. As an instance of what can be accomplished in securing the means of sustaining life in the arctic regions, I will here give a few particulars bearing upon' the subject, and belonging to this particular journey. 316 AUCTIC UEtiEAUClI EXPEDITION. Wc set out with 20 8ca-biscuit, weight C Ibn. «alt-jimk " 6 " CoH'co mill pepper, sny 1 " Tutiil pruviHion fur tlio tlircu 11 " Powder 1 lb. Bulls, ill iiiiinbcr 80. 1 rillo, 1 gun, 2 seal 8]icar.s, with lincH mid Imrpoons. We were away ten days, and in tliat time obtained 1 polnr benr, equal fo 1000 lbs. 1 ookgook (Imgcst-sizL'd seal) IfiOO " 9 souls 1800 " Making u total of 4300 " — that is, over two tons of fresh meat, besides skins for clothing, and oil for fuel and light. Most of the meat and blubber wc deposited en cache, and the ookgook we left on the ice; but we were obliged to abandon all, excepting a very little blubber, and the small proportion of meat which was consumed by ourselves and the dogs. The skins we saved. A TIIUKK DAYS' GALK. 817 CnAPTER XIX. An Excursion to the WlinlinR Dei)ot.— I'nssngo ocross Field nny.—Siiifiiilur Mode of (•nptuiinj; Sciils. — Cnmpcll Inlet.— Cross to Frobishcr Hay. — Arrive nt the WImiiiii; l)e|)(')t. — A liiruo nnd bustling I'liu'c. — Consultntion ns to Author's I'liins. — Vuin IIoi)e of pursuing his Voyage. — I'uto in Distress. — A Wiilk to " Hcnr Hound." — Great number of Pieces of Limestone. — Bout Trip to Hour Sound. — Velocity of the Tides. — Immenso number of Ducks nnd Wild-fowl. — Eggs ob- tained in abundance. — "Ice Collars." — Natural Bridges of Ice. — Ucturn to Res- cue Harbor. — Stop nt French Ilend. — Corpse of John Brown still there, nnd un- molested. — Arrive on Board. — Fourth of July again.— Field Bay clearing of Ico. — Look-out Island. — Lu.xuriant Vegetation. — Musquitocs. — Ugarng's Influence and Character. — A Lovo Affair. — Little Ookoodlear and the Outcast E-tu. — An imnaturnl Father. — A Chihl left deserted on a solitary Island. — Procures Food by catching Partridges with his Hand. — Lives a Hermit Life for Months. — Is res- cued by chance Visitors. — (irows to Manhood shunned by nil his liaco save a few. — Ugarng's generous Protection. On my return, June 15tl), 18G1, 1 found Innuit visitors at the ship. The only two men left on board were quite wclL I was also much pleased to see that all my own apparel had been put in order, and such as needed it washed by Tookoolito, who had occasionally visited the vessel during my absence, and had thus thoughtfully provided for my comfort. The following few days I devoted wholly to resting myself and ' preparing for my long-desired voyage to King William's Land, which I intended to make as soon as I could obtain the means of prosecuting it, and the ice would permit. On the 17th another heavy gale burst upon us, which continued until the 20th. It blew hard, but there was no danger just now to the ship, for Rescue Harbor was still paved over with thick, .solid ice; yet she trembled through her whole frame, and her masts quivered like reeds. In the outer bay, seaward, the ice was broken into innumerable fragments. On account of the storm, the natives on board, who' had come from Cape True, could not return, and those on shore I perceived to be suffering from a gen- eral wreck of their habitations. Hardly a tuple was standing. The gale had razed them to the ground. My late companions, Ebierbing and Koodloo, set out on the 318 ARCTIC KESEAllCII EXrEDITION. 20lh sealing, and returned the following day, Laving secured eight seals, weighing in all about 1400 pounds. This would have sup- plied them with food for a long time, had they provident habits. At this time news came by Koojessc from the whaling depot at Cape True, in Frobisher Bay. All the officers and crew sta- tioned there were well, though still unsuccessful. As Koojesse was to return as soon as possible, I determined to go with him, and accordingly wc set out on the following even- ing, June 21st. At 7 P.M. wc left the ship, with sledge and a team of eight dogs, including my faithful Barbckark. Our load was light, and we went along over the uncertain ice at three miles an hour. We had a thick fog all the way in crossing Field Bay, and Koojessc, though a capital guide, was evidently taking a wrong course after leaving Rescue Harbor, until I showed him by my compass how wc ought to go. By that means we got into the old sledge-tracks, marking the course to and fro, and were even with French Uead"'"' in two and a half hours from the ship. On the passage I noticed another singular and striking method which the natives use to capture seals. I will relate the incident as recorded in my journal of Saturday, the 22d of June: " We saw many seals out on the ice, but did not succeed in killing any, though Koojesse made several attempts. • ''^ '-^ * * At 7 43 P.M., Rescue Harbor time, the dog !Merok (brother dog of the notable Barbckark), a good scaler, saw a seal which he had scented some moments previous. Aw\ay he darted as fast as his now inspirited companion-dogs would allow him. Koojessc at once saw what was up, and set up a peculiar continued loud cry, in which I joined. The flying dogs, with kummitie, and our noise, so alarmed poor seal that it knew not what to do. The seal had his head over his hole, yet high raised, looking at the motley sight, and listening to the pandemonian sounds, which frightened it near unto death. On we went; but when the dogs were within a few paces only, the seal regained his senses, and down he went just in time to save life — blubber! Koojesse says that young seals are often captured by such })rocedure as this, but seldom old ones." On arriving near the base of French Head, a little the other ♦ "French Head" is n prominent headland, soiitli side of Field Bay, and so named to commemorate tlic death of the Freiuhninn, wliich oernrred near its liase, as re- lated in Chaj)ter XIII. French Head is in lat. 02 44' JiO" N., long. CA 45' W. SEAL-CHARMING. 321 side of it, we turned toward Chapell Inlet, intending to cross over the isthmus at its head. The channel by which we had first en- tered this inlet in the liescm (August 21st, 1860) was now full of hummocks; we therefore crossed over a neck of land perhaps half a mile wide, covered with submerged ice. The floating qual- ities of the sledge, as well as of the load, including ourselves, made our passage by water rapid, though not very comfortable. We crossed this " pass" — used frequently by the lunuits and the ship's crew in going to and from Cape True — and entered the inlet. Here I found many portions of the ice covered with the melted snows, and in some places the sledge sank deep in the wa- ter, much to the annoyance of the dogs as well as of ourselves. On the way Koojesse again had " talk" with some more seals which we saw, and it was with great interest I watched him. He lay down on one side, and crawled by hitches or jerks toward his victim ; then, as the seal raised its head, Koojesse would stop, and commence pawing with his right hand and foot while he uttered his "seal-talk." On this the seal would feel a charm, raise and shake its flippers both " fore and aft," and roll over on its side and back, as if perfectly delighted, after which it would drop its head to sleep; then Koojesse would hitch, hitch, along, till the seal's head would pop up again, which usually occurred every few moments. But Koojesse approached too near, and this broke the charm, allowing the seal to escape, and leaving the disappointed sealer to cry '■'■ E-e-e-uh T The great trouble with the Innuits in this mode of sealing is that they often endeavor to get too near — saj'^ within five or seven fathoms — so as to make sure of their aim with a gun or spear, and this alarms their prey. During our progress up the inlet I observed a very small new- ly-made igloo, and asked Koojesse what it meant. "TFic/i-ow, ivich-ou^^ (wait, wait), said he in reply, and in a few moments we came alongside. The next instant Koojesse had jumped off the sledge, and with a grab through the snow, drew forth by one of its hind flippers a fine seal that he had killed when on his way up to the vessel. As we proceeded up the inlet, gradually the low land at its head appeared, and at two in the morning of the 22d we had reached it. From here we turned westward, following the sinuos- ities of the coast for two miles, when we struck across the narrow strip of land dividing Chapell Inlet from Frobisher Bay. A few X > 322 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. minutes sufficed to find us slowly working along the badly-brok- en shore-ice on that side, the bay itself being wholly free, except a few bergs. Occasionally the dogs went^e^/-me?^ down, and over the steep broken ice ; then the sledge would butt against a per- pendicular hummock, sending us forward, very much like a stone out of a sling ; but we got along without serious mishap, and ar- rived at Cape True at half past two in the morning. As my eye first caught sight of the whale depot I was quite as- tonished. I had formed no conception of its being such a busy- looking place. There w^ere numerous and thickly-crowded habi- tations, white men and Innuit tents, mills {toy wind-mills), and a liberty-pole, holding high to the breeze an extemporized emblem of our country ! People were already up and about, and every pinnacled rock had some person upon it to witness our approach. The dogs soon landed us on the rocks which formed the " public .square" of the town, and quickly, from one and all, I received a hearty welcome. It seemed almost like home again to behold so many friendly and familiar faces. Several Innuits were here, most of whom I well knew, and they were delighted to see me. Immediately on my arrival I was invited by the captain and officers into their quarters, and had an excellent breakfast put be- fore me. Of course one of the first inquiries was about my trip to and return from the " dreaded land." This I soon answered by giving an account of what I had done, and then, my morning meal ended, I took a walk along the beach. Every where I found fragments of limestone in abundance, and my pockets were soon filled with specimens, which I brought home. One object of my visit to the whale depot was to see about pre- paring for my departure to King William's Land, and to consult Captain B respecting it. The boat promised me had to be made ready, and therefore I at once entered upon the subject with him. The following is an extract from the entry made in my journal at the time (Saturday, June 22d, 1861) : " Captain B says that he has been out in this bay (Frobish- er) several times since coming over, and that he has been much impressed with the subject of my making my trip or voyage this summer, as expected, in a whale-boat. He thought it his duty to open the matter to me at once, announcing the conclusion he had come to, painful to him and to me. The boat which I had made in the States, specially designed and made for my expedi- tion to King William's Land, was a suitable one for me, but a DISArrOINTED BUT NOT DISHEARTENED. 323 whale-boat was unfit. Captain B continued to say that I had not an}^ more of an outfit, provision, etc., than I should take, but that, with the crew necessary, I could not possibly carry more than a very small proportion of what I had. He found that with the boat's crew, and the three line-tubs each boat has, no addition- al weight could be added to navigate in such waters as he knew I would be obliged to in getting to the point of my destinit^ion. " This is a serious matter with me — one pregnant with such thoughts lean not put upon paper. I can not, I will not sell my life foolishly, ^f the loss of my expedition boat, which was well planned and strongly made, has taken from me the proper, the only judicious means of carrying out my purpose of going to King "William's Land, then I must delay — I must lose one year in re- turning to the States and preparing again for the voyage that I am still determined to make, God loilling. I will refer in my journal to this subject again." Among the Innuits staying at the whale depot was the woman Pulo, mother of the scmi -white child. This poor woman was very badly off, her husband being dead, and she had but scant means of providing for herself and ofispring. Seeing her sad condition, I gave her several trinkets, and, in addition, a box of 100 percus- sion caps. This latter present caused her to weep for joy. She knew not how enough to thank me. With them she could trade among her people for many conveniences she wanted. Any thing in the way of ammunition is thought more of by the Innu- its than almost any other articles that could be named. At this time the weather was fine, and the view of Kingaite, with its miles and miles of mountain wall, its glaciers, and its snows, was grand indeed. More than ever was I desirous of ex- ploring that coast; and I thought that, even if nothing else could be done, I might possibly examine some of the places made fa- mous by Frobisher's voyages in 1576, '7, and '8. " Bear Sound" was but a short distance to the eastward, and the second day after my arrival at the whale depot I took with me "Captain" (Koker- jabin's youngest son), and walked toward it. But he proved only a hinderance to me. I had to go full fifteen miles to reach a point of land distant not more than two and a half miles in a direct line. I was obliged to make for the head of Chapell Inlet by first wad- ing through some soft, wet snow, that covered shore-ice and the land on my way. Then I had to make a long circuit around some stones and rocki;, and afterward ascend hill after hill, going 321 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. through valleys full of snow soft and deep enough to cover my whole body. But, wherever I went, small pieces of limestone were ia abundance, even to the very mountain-tops. At length I arrived at my destination on the west side of Bear Sound. There — beside those waters, on whose shores Frobisher and his men had labored for the mineral wealth which he believed he had found there — I had my noon repast, my Innuit companion sharing it with me. Besting a while, I forgot my youthful at- tendant while contemplating the scene around me. Presently I rose to return, and missed " Captain." I called ; no reply. Where had he gone ? There was a steep precipice close by, and I be- came alarmed lest he had fallen over it. I therefore instantly sought for him, and after some moments found his tracks. lie had left me without a word, intending to go by a more direct, but, as I thought, dangerous course to the depot. I followed him, and we then returned together, arriving at the tents much fatigued. While I was stopping at Cape True the boats frequently went to get fuel from the scattered remains of the Travdler before men- tioned. The shore was strewed with portions of the wreck, which would serve many years for fuel for ships' companies occupied as the Georrjellenri^s was at the whaling depot. The crew of the Gcorrje Henry were at that time living "in clo- ver." They had plenty of ducks, duck eggs, seal, walrus, etc., and whenever they wanted a supply they had only to go and take what Nature here so plentifully furnished. On one of these oc- casions (June 2-itli) I accompanied a party that went "duck-egg- ing." It consisted of two whale-boats, manned by whites and In- nuits, under command of Charles Keeuey and A. Bailey. I went with the latter, leaving the whale depot early in the morning, and striking right across a little bight to the west entrance of Bear Sound. On entering this sound I was surprised at the velocity and sin- gular movements of the tides. As we advanced the tide was ebb- ing, and running swiftly up toward Field Bay. But when we had reached Ellis Island,* the movement of the tidal waters ap- peared to be reversed, and they were throwing themselves furi- ously about. Eddies, and whirlpools, and mill-races were there running and whirling around in the wildest and most fantastic * A prominent, bold rock island, west side of Bear Sound, about one sixth of n mile in diameter, three miles from Field Bay, and named after .John W. Ellis, of Cincinnati, Ohio. "Ellis Island" is in lat. 02' 32' N., long. 04" 45' W. DUCK-IIUNTING AND EGGING.— ICE COLLARS. 325 way, carrying on their foaming surface small bergs, "sconce" pieces, and ice fragments of all shapes, in utter disregard of each other. When the tide turned these masses came whirling back, as if madly bent on heaping destruction wherever they could. This scene in Bear Sound was singularly grand and striking. With regard to these tides I will not say nr uch here, reserving such subjects for the Appendix ; but I soon found this to be a sub- ject requiring attentive consideration, and this I afterward had an opportunity of giving to it. As to egging and duck-hunting, I can say more about it now. The ducks were very numerous, flying over our heads in every direction. They were in the water drifting with the sv/iftly-run- uing tide, on the ice, and on nearly every one of the numerous islands we passed. Wherever we saw a great many upon or around an island, wo visited it for eggs. The first island we pulled to was one in the midst of a sweep- ing, driving tide, so that it seemed to defy all human exertions to approach it; yet, after "a long pull, a strong pull, and a pull al- together," we conquered. The boat was taken round to the op- l)0sitc side of the island from that where the tide struck it, and though the water rolled and tumbled as if mad, we managed by a plan of our own to get upon the top of the magnificent " ice collar" that engirdled the island. This was the first time in my life that I saw cider-ducks' nests, and consequently the first occasion on which I aided in abstract- ing the large, luscious eggs. In ten minutes four of us gathered six dozen, and at another island, in twenty minutes, sixteen dozen and five. The eggs taken are replaced by fresh ones, as the ducks lay every two or three days. Many ducks were shot, but, owiujr to the swift tide, only a few were obtained. The rest were swcp., away. in speaking of the " ice collars" surrounding the islands, I may mention that if they had been simply perpendicular the difficulty in mounting them would not have been so great; but they pro- jected over from ten to thirty feet, and when the tide bad fallen some twenty-four feet it was no slight task to surmount them. We managed it in some cases by extending two of our long oars from the boat to the top, thus forming a substitute for a ladder. Many of the islands in Bear Sound were locked together by natural ice bridges, several of these being arched in a most re- markable manner. 826 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXrEUlTION, V V SCALINQ AN ICE COI.LAK IN IIEAU BOUND. Wc approached to within three miles of Sylvia Island, the same on which I and my Innuit companions had encamped on our late journey to the "dreaded land," and I could not but view it in a most friendly way when I remembered how its warm, dry rocks gave us a good bed and protection from the storms. Our excursion lasted some hours, and wc returned to the tu- ples, both boats well laden with eggs. The total acquisition of our two boats' crews was one hundred dozen eggs and five ducks. An eider-duck egg is nearly twice the size of a hen's. At this time Captain B was absent with two boats a short distance up the bay " prospecting" for whales. lie returned on the 28th of June, during a fierce storm of wind and rain, and he informed me that the trip back was made under most unfavorable circumstances. The previous night had been passed on an island above Evictoon, the only shelter obtained from the storm being that which their boats' saik afforded when put up as a tent. His own crew suffered greatly from the cold ; but the Innuits with him, not finding sufficient room inside the tent, went out and lay doivn under the lee of some jyrojectuij rocks/ They rested and slept well, while the luhite men could hardly keep themselves, as they said, from being frozen. RETURN TO THE SHIP.— FOURTH OF JULY. 327 On the evening of Friday, the 28th of June, having spent seven days at Cape True, I purposed starting back the next day for the vessel. An extract from my journal of that date I will hero in- troduce : " To-morrow I accompany Captain B back to the Geovf/e Henry. He goes with the expectation of remaining there until the vessel is liberated, when he intends to return to this bay and cruise around a while, and if unsuccessful, to return to Field Bay or proceed to Cornelius Grinuell Bay. Two boats' crews arc to Ibllow in a few days, while two remain here (Frobisher Bay) foi- a little while, to continue cruising for whales." Here follows another entry in my journal, made just before leaving the whaling depot : " /Saturday, June 29lh, 1861. I soon start for home — that is, set out for the vessel. Captain B and I are to have one sledge for ourselves and our traps, and will have Koojesse for dog-driver. Charley, the good-hearted Innuit, is to take another team along, to convey the clothes of two of the George Ilenry^s men — one the carpenter, a Portuguese, and young Smith, who are to go along. "Puto and Miner's wife have been mending my l-vm-inqs (na- tive boots) this morning, that I may go dry-shod to the vessel, as we anticipate watery traveling." At 8 A.M. of the 29th we left Cape True, and at 6 P.M. arrived at French Head. As we passed " French Head," where poor John Brown had met his death a little over three months previous, we had a look at the spot. Lo! there were his remains just as we had left them, except that foxes or bears had eaten part of his skin clothing. His corpse was untouched ! As for the monu- ment we had erected over him, that had melted away, and soon the ice beneath his body would melt away also, and lower him into his ocean grave. The journey back to the ship was very difficult. In many places pools of water and broken ice led to the apprehension that no passage would be found ; and nearly the whole way we had to walk almost knce-decp through slush and water covering the sea-ice. But at length, about midnight, we arrived on board, and soon threw ourselves down to rest, after a most fatiguing journey of sixteen hours. Four days later was the Fourth of July, and the following ex- tract from my diary will show how it was celebrated among us : " Thursday, July 4:th, 1861. Eighty-five years ago to-day was 828 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. made the Declaration of American Independence. Here, amid mountains robed in snow — on a sea covered with thick-ribbed ice — among a people free as God's own children can be, we celebrate the birthday of our freedom. The iron free sons of the North have joined us in making the welkin ring with our cheers and steel-throated welcomes of this memorable day. " Soon after nine last night all turned in, agreeing to be on deck a few minutes before twelve midnight. Sleep stole so heavi- ly upon us that'it was 1 o'clock AM. when Morgan came to my berth and called me. A few moments sufficed to lind a company, armed and equipped as the law (the Oeonje Henry^s) directs, read}'- for action. Some of the company were, as they leaped from their blankets, in stocking-feet and drawers. Nevertheless, they had willing hands and patriotic hearts, wide mouths and deep-toned throats, therefore they '^;rts,saZ muster.'' The signal was given by me, and in voices of thunder we spoke, and then followed cheer upon cheer. The ensign was hoisted, while we saluted it with a round of cheers and sulphurous fire. "After a capital dinner, an old cast-away gun, that had been lying about the deck, was filled to the brim with powder, the charge hammered down, and the barrel plugged to the muzzle. The stock had been ripped off in the morning by the Innuit.s, leaving only the barrel. It was now taken far out on the ice, placed on a pure white bed, and fired. One grand explosion filled the air, and the old gun was shattered into innumerable frag- ments, some flying over the vessel, others mounting high into the air, and one piece going as far as Cooper's Island, a quarter of a mile off, where it was afterward picked up. " Such has been our celebration of Independence Day, 1861. "This afternoon I visited Cooper's Island, and, with chisel and hammer, dug out some of the ' black ore,' such as was discovered by Aobisher's expedition of 1578. with which many of his ships were laden. This ore attracts and repels the magnetic needle about like iron. It is very heavy." 0.1 the 6th of July I went to Whale Island for the purpose of looking seaward, that I might see the state of the ice and consider the probability of the ship becoming free. It was only about six miles to the open w^ater — the sea. Good prospect, therefore, of soon being entirely free. All the ice, except that around the ship, where islands blocked up the passages, had drifted away, and hope rose strong within us that we should soon be able to FLOWERS.— MUSQUITOES.—UGAUNG. 820 make sail from Rescue Ilarbor where the vessel had lain so long. Another island {Look-out Island) I found wholly destitute of snow, and vegetation was quite luxuriant upon it. Grasses and flowers looked truly beautiful when contrasted with the bay and snow-covered mountains around. On the 7th of July we were visited by the first miisquilocs of the season ; and, from the torment they gave me, I was strongly reminded of my sufferings at Ilolsteinborg the previous year, and also had a taste of what would probably come. Another arrival this day was Ugarng and his wives. He was loaded with the spoils of a successful reindeer hunt, and, in addi- tion, had killed a wliile whale in Cornelius Grinnoll Bay. He and several more Innuits went off to the whale depot to see what pros- pects existed there for hunting or fisliing, but he did not remain long. Upon his return ho determined to revisit the place he had lately left. Ugarng had great influence among his people, and I have often thought he was not a man to be wholly trusted. Indeed, I some- times felt that nothing ever done for him would cause a grateful return. lie was a bold, successful, and experienced hunter, and, as such, was frequently engaged by the whalers he encountered ; but little dependence could be placed upon him. The strongest agreement would be instantly set at naught whenever he saw any thing more likely to conduce to his own interest. In the present case Ugarng was using all his powers of persua- sion to induce every Innuit to leave our locality and go with him. What his real motive was I can not say ; but it is probable that now, when there was abundance to be had by hunting and seal- inof, he — who disliked the restraints of civilization — wanted to go fixrther away, and to take along all his friends, relatives, and ac- quaintances, so as to be perfectly and absolutely free. He tried every means to induce Ebierbing and Tookoolito to go with him, and for a time there was some hesitation on their part about it ; but their attachment to me prevailed, and neither of them would consent to go. A general migration, however, did take place. Many, of the Innuits accompanied Ugarng ; and I afterward heard that several others, as Annawa, Artarkparu, and all belonging and known to them, went away about the same time from the whaling depot (where a few of the ships' crews still remained to look for whales), taking their course up Frobisher Bay. Ugarng's party consisted of his two wives, Kunniu and Punnie ; 330 AllCTir UESKAUCII EXl'KDITION. infant, Mc-noun ; nephew, Eterloong; and his aged motlier, Ooki- joxy Ninoo, besides Johnny Bull and his wife Kokerzhun, Bob and his wife Polly, Blind George and his daughter Kookooyer, and, lastly, E-tu the wi/c/ess. About the time the great leave-taking took place between these unsophisticated children of the North and Ebierbing with his wife, an incident occurred that especially deserves to be recorded. There was an Innuit young man named E-ta, who had lately joined the natives here from some other place. Tliis Etu 1 had noticed as somewhat singular in his ways, and remarkable in his appearance. He was much under the protection or rule of Ugarng, and seemed to be his willing follower. Now Ugarng wanted little Ookoodli\ir (cousin of Ebierbing and niece of Ugarng) to marry this Etu, but she unhesitatingly exjiressed her dislike to the proposal. On the day of Ugarng and his company's dej)arture, I was on shore to bid them all farewell. About the time this company of Innuits was ready to start for Cornelius Grinnell Bay (July 15th), I went over to Whale Island. As I arrived there I looked toward Look-out Island, and found that the boat of Bob's, with several natives, was on the move southeast toward the open water. The boat was lashed upon a sledgo drawn by a portion of Ebierbing''s dogs, the natives assist- ing in pushing. Just by Whale Island was Ugarng's sledge load- ed with tuples, and nearly in readiness for the final start. I went into Ebierbing's tuj^ic, and there found Tookoolito busy in attending to her friend Kokcrzhun's departure. These two women were strong friends, and the separation for what would probably be a long time was evidently painful; but I saw some one else also much affected. Little Ookoodlear was weeping as if her heart would break, and, on inquiry, I ascertained it was be- cause Ugarng wanted to take her away and marry her to Etu. So great was her dislike to the young man that nothing but force would make her his wife. Ebierbing, seeing the WTctchcdncss of her mind on the subject, went, in company wath Koodloo, to Etu, and told him that the girl was yet too young to marry, and that, moreover, she did not like him. This explanation had some effect, and Ookoodlear was allowed to remain behind on Ebierbing declaring that he and his wife would be her protectors. I heard a most extraordinary account of this Etu. It seems that, in consequence of something that happened to his mother be- SrOTTlCl) noY.— nilEVOOllT ISLAND.—CAI'E MUUCIIISON. 381 foro he was born, tlio poor iiifiuit ciitnc into tlio world marked all over with snow-whito spots and blaek spots, jiiHt like a hm-ou-Uk, a largo spotted kind of seal. The lather, looking u2)on this spot- ted child as a monster — a living curse lii his family — determined to get rid of him, and accordingly conveyed the boy to Ki-hi-lak- Ju-a, i. c., Long Island, called by me lirevoort Island,* the southern point of which is Cape; Murchison.f This island was (piite desti- tute of means of subsistence, and, to appearance, the poor boy was left there to perish by starvation. Strange to say, however, Ktu lived on. lie succeeded in catching partridges nu'lh ///cv //(0((/.s', an act never before or since known to have been done by Innuits. Thus the summer passed on, and winter approached. Still he lived, subsisting upon whatsoever he could iind in the shape of food, a wild hermit-boy, on a solitary, almost unapproachable isl- and, far from his fellow-beings. Keleaso came to him in the fol- lowing manner: One day a party of Innuits visited the island, and, to their as- tonishment, saw this young child standing upon a rock looking at them. He was like a statue, and they, knowing the place to be uninhabited, could hardly tell what to think of it. At length they went toward him, and he, seeing them kindly disposed, at once rushed into their arms, and was thus saved from the cruel death intended for him by his inhuman father. Since then he had grown to manhood, being, when I saw him, about twenty-five years old. He had had three wives, none of which remained to him. The first was accidentally drowned ; the second was taken away by her mother ; and the third — her fate I never learned. His intended fourth, Ookoodlear, who was only about thirteen years old, escaped in the way I have mentioned. Etu's fortune was a hard one. Few liked him. lie seemed to be lahooed from his youth, and as if always destined to be an out- ' cast, because Nature had put marks upon his body, making him to differ from others of his kind. Whether it was the knowledge of this isolation that made him a lazy and indifferent huntei"( I can not say ; but certain it is, such was the character he had, and it redounds to the credit of Ugarng that he gave the poor fellow the hand of friendship in the way he did. • So named after J. Carson Brevoort, of Brooklyn, New York. This is a very long and prominent island south of the cape, on the west side of the entrance to Northumberland Inlet ; its southern cnpc — Capo Murchison — is nearly on a paral- lel with the north entrance to Cornelius Grinnell Baj'. t Named after Sir Roderick I. Murchison, of London, England. Cape Murchi- son, the south extreme of Brevoort Island, is in hit. G3° 13' N., long. G3° ."),")' W. 332 ARCTIC llESEARCII EXrEDlTlOX. CHAPTER XX. The George Henry free from her icy Prison. — Dog " Smile" capturing a Seal. — Fresli Fish caught. — Another Trip to the Wlialing Dei)6t. — Immense Flocks of Ducks. — Large Shoals of Walrus. — A Walrus-attack on the Bout. — Islands inFrobisher Bay. — lunuit Diseases. — Consumption. — Sharkey's Wife. — "Las-as-ses." — In- nuit love for Sweets. — Uetura Trip tlirough Lupton Channel. — French Head again. — Corpse of John Brown gone. — All the Ice disapjieared. — Great Heat. — Traveling over broken Ice. — Dangerous Lca])s. — The Rescue's Ghost. — Sujjcrsti- tion of Sailors. — Ice-floes pressing on the Ship, — Great Danger. — The "Ghost" again apjKiars. — Author's attempt to form a Vocabulary. — Aid of Tookoolito. — The Innuits fast passing away. — Return of all the Crew from Whaling Depot. — Mate ]?ogers. — Incidents of his Trip u]) the Bay. — Serious Illness of some Innuits. — Starvati'in. — A good Harbor. — Eating Ducks raw. — Arrival on Board. — Au- thor's Plans for exploring. — Leaves the Ship. — Takes up his Abode with the Na- tives. — The George Henry departs. — Author's Visit to tlie Rescue's Hull. — Arctic Robins. — Unexpected Return of the Ship. — Ebierbing sick. — Jennie, the Angeko. — Practice of Ankooting. — Philosophy of the Operation. — Opening for Missionary Enterjirise. — Pcniniican, best Mode of jjrejiaring it. — Author Visits the Ship. — Returns to Whale Island. — Ankooting again. — Solemnity of the Company pres- ent. — Superstition. — Nice D'stinction as to what is Work. — Final Visit to the Ship. — Natives' Doubts removed. — Crew completed. — The Fashions. — Suzhi the heaviest Innuit. — Preparations for the Boat Voyage nearly made. Ox Wednesday morning, the 17th of July, 1861, we were de- lighted to find that our ship had broken from lier eight months' imprisonment during the past night, and now swung to her chains in the tidal waters of Rescue Harbor. But it was only in a pool she was free. Ice still intervened between our anchorage and the main bay, and we could do nothing but wait yd longer with whatever patience wc could command. I myself was getting (]^uite impatient. Time was passing on, and no chance yet of- fered for my going awoy on one or other of my intended explo- rations. What could I do? I was, at times, as if crazy; and only a walk on some island, where I could examine and survey, or a visit to my Innuit friends, helped to soothe me. But the reader will feel little interest in all this; I will therefore pass on to some other incidents of my voyage. Ebierbing liad been out one day with dogs and sledge where the ice was still firm, when suddenly a seal was noticed ahead. SLEDGE AND BOAT TUIP. 333 In an instant the clogs were off toward tbc prey, drawing the sledge after tbem at a marvelous rate. The seal for a moment acted as if frightened, and kept on the ice a second or two too long, for just as he plunged, "aS'»u7c," the noblest-looking, best leader, seal, and bear dog I ever saw, caught him by the tail and flippers. The seal struggled violently, and so did dog Smile, making the sledge to caper about merrily ; but in a moment more the other dogs laid hold, and aided in dragging the seal out of his hole on the ice, when iSinik took it wholly in charge. The prize was secured this time wholly by the dogs. IX)U "smile" CAITDBES A SEAL. On the 18th we had an excellent supper o? fresh fish, caught by the Innuits with spears and hooks among the ice cracks; and al- most daily something fresh was added to our food. At this time most of the ship's crew were again at the whaling depot, cruising in every direction for whales. Indeed, Mate Rog- ers and some of the men had been left there to keep a look-out when the captain came away, to sec about getting the vessel round, and frequent communication had, as usual, been maintained. On the 28d it was necessary to send a supply of sundries to the comjiany there, and a boat's crew were dispatched, I accompany- ing them. As the ice still hung together between the ship and open water in the bay, the boat was lashed upon a sledge drawn by dogs, my favorite Barbokark being one, and away we started, arriving at the sea-edge of the ice in about two hours' time. There we launch- ed the boat, and were soon bounding along upon the sparkling 334 ARCTIC KESEARCII EXPEDITION. waves toward Lupton Channel. Many seals were seen bobbin"' their heads above water; and, as we entered among the islands within the channel, ducks were to be seen in every direction, some flying, some in the water, and some on the islands. They were in such numbers that, when above us, they almost darkened the air. Nearly all were hing ducks (males), their mates being en- gaged in domestic affairs at home — sitting — while the "lords of the house" were gathering food for them. In passing through the channel and Bear Sound the tide was favorable, and swept us along with great rapidity. Occasionally wc were in a mill-race of waters, and it required much care to navigate the boat. At a quarter past 4 VM. we reached the whaling dqiot, dis- tant about thirty miles, having been eleven hours coming from the ship. We found the officers and men all well and in good condition. They had lived on ducks, duck eggs, seal, walrus, and venison, which they had in abundance, but they were much disheartened at their poor success in whaling. Not a whale had been caught since the past fall. Walrus in any numbers could be obtained, and many had been secured for their skins and tusks; but the main object of the voyage had as 3^et been a failure. With reference to the walrus, Mr. Rogers told me that one da}-, when out cruising for whales, he went, with two boats and crews, half way across Frobisher Bay, and then came to an iceberg one hundred feet above the sea, and, mounting it, with a spy-glass, took a look all around. Whales there were none; but walrus — "Why," to use his figurative but cxpres'sive words, "there were millions out on the pieces of ice, drifting with the tide — walrus in every direction — millions on millions." On their way back, ^fr. Lamb, in charge of the second boat, had a fight with some walrus in the following manner. Approaching a piece of ice on which some of these creatures were basking, he attacked one of them, whereupon all the rest immediately rushed toward the boat, and vigorously set upon him and his crew. For a time it seemed necessary to. fly for safety ; but all hands resisted the attack, and would have got off very well, but that one of the walrus herd pierced the boat's side with his tusks, and made the invaders retreat to repair damages. Mr. Lamb had to drag his boat upon an ice-floe near by, and stuff" in oakum to stop a seri- ous leak thus caused. Finally be succeeded, though with some SWIFT TIDES IN BEAR SOUND. 335 difficulty, in getting back, and thus ended bis encounter with a shoal of walrus. With reference to Frobisber Bay, I may here mention that, on taking a look with my glass from " Flag-staff Hill," adjoining this whaling depot, and sweeping around from the southeast extreme of Meta Incognita toward the land I recently visited (the dreaded land), I was astonished to see, just on the horizon, what appeared to be islands stretching nearly across. One of the Innuits (Shar- key) told me that he bad beei\ to those islands, and that his peo- ple sometimes make a passage across the entrance of the bay by starting on the Kingaite side, and then striking from one island to the other, by way of Too-jar-choo-ar (Resolution Island), until able to^make the distance (avoiding the dreaded district) to the place where we then were — Cape True. Years ago reindeer were very ^numerous on those islands, but at last the moss failed and they all died. Their horns and bones are to be found scattered all over the place. Polar bears are plenty there. I was sorry to find several of my Innuit friends at this place very sick from the complaint that was introduced to their race when first brought into contact with civilization, viz., consump- tion. Sharkey's wife was rapidly declining. Ilcr bleeding at the lungs had left her white as the driven snow, and poor as flcshless bones could be. I will here relate an anecdote, ^v'hicb will serve to show how- fond some of the Innuits are of sweets, as well as of fat or blubber. Mr. Rogers was carrying along over the rocks a jug of" las-as- scs," as the Innuits pronounce violaSses. All at once the bottom of the jug dropped out, and the contents splashed down, his hand flying up as if an electric shock from a strongly-charged battery had been given him. Quick as it was noised about, the spot sweetened over with the " lasasscs" was not uiilike a sugar hogs- head near a boe-hive on a warm sunny day. The Innuits, men, women, and children, crowded round it to lick up the sweet mix- ture ! After arranging all matters that Captain B had asked my attention to, and enjoying a good rest in one of the ofUcers' tents, we started on our way back to the ship, taking with us several saddles of venison, half a dozen brace of ducks, and other good things for those on board. When about half way through Bear Sound, the commotion and roar of the waters were such as no person who has not witnessed 836 ARCTIC IIESEARCII EXPEDITION. the like coukl form an adequate idea of. Small icebergs were swept along, roundabout, this way and that way, at a speed of full eight knots an hour. On one side piles of ice were carried swift- ly to the south, and on the other side ice was sweeping in the con- trary direction. The turmoil and confusion seemed almost de- moniac. At length the surging ceased for a while, and then it began again, every thing to appearance being in readiness for a race up toward Lupton Channel. And so it continued, obliging us to ply the long steering-oar l^riskly to keep the boat in its course, as we were borne along with the rapid tide. When we got out of the channel a fresh breeze helped us on- ward until we came near "French Ilead," when it failed. Here FKKNCII IIKAI). all the ice had disappeared and gone down the bay, thus, at last, carrying to the great sea the mortal remains of poor John Brown, there soon depositing them to rest quietly beneath the waters that link together peoiile of all nations of the earth. He now lies buried in the world's great grave-yard. Nature, however, marks the spot where he must have fought valiantly the last battle of PERILOUS PASSAGE ON THE ICE. 337 life. The bluff stands out boldly to view whenever any one may be navigating in or near Field Bay. '■'■French Ilead''^ is a monu- ment as enduring as the everlasting mountains. At 4 P.M. we reached the ice-floe, and there re-lashed the boat upon a sledge sent forward ready for our arrival. The ice was very much worse than it had been the previous morning, and we tell through it in many places. Finally we reached the ship at 8 P.M., greatly fatigued with the laborious exertions we had made. At this time the heat was almost overpowering. On the 25th of July, at 2 P.M., the mercury stood at 95° in tlie sun, and no work could be done except when we were clad in the lightest gar- ments. What a contrast to the period only a few weeks past, when my reindeer furs were needed. The day after m^- return to the ship I visited the tuples on shore, and took sundry articles of my apparel for Tookoolito and the other women to put in order for me, as they generally did. On the way I had far more difficulty than I anticipated. Two of the sailors had brought me in a boat as for as the broken ice would permit, and then I proceeded toward the shore by moving from one piece of ice to another. But it soon became evident that there was much dangerous work ahead. The ice around the shores and about the harbor and bay was now disappearing like dew before the morning sun. I was Indeed surprised to find the changes that had taken place within one day. Several wide chasms between boulders of shore-ice had to be crossed, and my leaps were often made with more or less danger of getting a down- full into the briny deep. Now and then I was obliged to throw my pack in advance, and then go back for a good run, so as to make my flying leap sure to carry me over the yawning gulf. For a full hour did I work thus to accomplish a distance of per- haps twenty rods. Now I would be upon a small piece of ice. pushing along as though it were a boat. Soon as I reached an- other piece I would have to run on to it ; thence to another, leap- ing cracks and channels that would certainly have made my hair stand on end at an earlier period of my life. At length I reacheil the last piece between myself and the shore. It was divided from the beach by a breach of some considerable distance ; but ther(> was no alternative ; leap it I must. Therefore I first threw my pack ashore, which went into a pool of water on the rocks, and then, with a good run, made a great spring, which fortunately just carried me on to terra firma. Y 4 338 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Many of these occurrences are common enough in the life of an arctic voyager ; but I mention this one as a passing incident, and to show what was the state of the ice around our ship at the time we were all so desirous of moving her. In the evening I got on board again without much difficulty, as a boat came for me to fir)n ice, which I had gained. The following morning, July 27th, all the ice about the vessel had nearly gone, though there were still some heavy pieces inter- vening between us and the outer bay. But what especially causes me to remember this day was the sudden disappearance of the wrecked Rescue. On looking toward Cooper's Island, where her hull had remained for so many months, we were surprised to find it gone. The waters had floated it away; and, for a moment, we fancied nothing more of the famous schooner would again be seen, unless away toward or on the great sea. But shortly after- ward, on visiting Whale Island, close by, we saw that the Rescue had drifted off with the tide, and had got in to the narrow chan- nel of open water that then surrounded the island. "The Res- cue^'' saj's my journal, " seems yet to live ; she has navigated her- self completely around Cooper's Island since early this morning. She sweeps around slowly and — I was about to say — prettily." The Rescue was doomed to wander about "like a ghost" — as some of the men said — for days. By the alternate ebb and flow of the tide, she was carried seaward, to be brought back to her old place, thei: co be carried out again. Then back again she came, dancing from place to place, like the ever-changing ice sconces surrounding her. She made the circuit of another island southeast of Cooper's, and again came near to us ; and so in and out, dancing here and moving there, the poor Rescue played about us, until at length her very presence seemed to cause a sujicrsti- tions dread. This was especially so when another day, and yet another, passed on, and still our vessel could not be moved away. As an illustration of this superstitious feeling among 4he sea- men, it may be mentioned that the want of success attending the George //ewr^ in whaling was attributed to the circumstance of bringing the Rescue with them as a tender. Some said she had never been any thing but a drawback since first built, and that she had nearly caused the loss of numbers of lives ; now she seemed to hang about them as an omen of ill luck — as a ghost/ At 8 P.M. of the 27th of July the breeze freshened up strongly from W. and W.N.W. Soon the ice yet in the vicinity of the THE "GEORGE HENRY" IN DANGER.— THE GHOST. 339 vessel began to move, and in heavy patches came toward the ship. All the crew had retired to rest except the captain and myself, but the men were quickly called up to ward off the threatened danger. On came the ice, directly toward the ship. A portion struck the cable, and strained it till the metal tinkled like steel. Fortunately, a projecting point of Cooper's Island partly arrested the entire floe of ice, and thus broke the shock ; yet the strain upon the ship's cable was intense. Men were ordered to get over the bow on to the floe with chisels and other implements, to cut away that portion pressing upon the chains, which was done aft- er some hard work. But we fully believed the ship was drag- ging her anchor, and at this precise moment, lo ! the immortal Rescue was seen, like the ghost in Hamlet, emerging from the mist, and moving on from near Cooper's Island straight to the very spot where she had been at anchor when overtaken by the hurricane which had wrecked her. The instant she was discov- ered, an exclamation burst from the crew that the very acme of bad luck seemed to have reached them ! They never could do TUB GII08T. any thing until that curse was out of sight ! Indeed, some of the expressions used about her were much stronger, and certainly, to 340 AUCTIC RESEARCH EXrEDITION. Others less interested in the Rescue than myself, her appearance so often, and apparently in such mystic form, was enough to cause annoyance, if not actual superstitious dread. All through that night great vigilance was needed in guarding the vessel, for the ice pressed tremendously upon her, and in the morning men were again at work cutting the floe. Finally they succeeded in separating a part that strained most upon the cable, and thus we escaped the greatest danger. On July 28th, in the morning, I went over to Whale Island and brought Tookoolito on board, to continue the work begun some time previous of getting up a vocabulary of the Innuit of these regions for collation with Parry's, compiled on his second voyage up Hudson's Straits. Tookoolito was very serviceable in this. She gave me valuable explanations of words, and also expedi- tiously interpreted into her own tongue portions of the ." Progress- ive Reader" which I had previously presented to her. In reference to this really important matter, the following ex- tract from my journal at the time may be here brought forward. I said : "Oh that such a noble Christianizing work was begun here as is now established in Greenland! What a valuable aid for it could be (bund in Tookoolito! Will not some society, some peo- ple of civilization, sec to this matter ere this noble race pass away? * * * It seems to me that the days of the Innuits are numbered. There are very few of them now. Fifty years may find them all passed away, without leaving one to tell that such a people ever lived." At this time the men that had remained at the whaling depot were summoned on board the ship, and on the evening of the 28th it was reported that some of them were coming. I went on deck, and asked one of the sailors, whoni we called " Spikes," who was then on watch, where they were. He replied. He didn't exactly know, but thought they might be that way — pointing to an island southeast of us — for he heard voices in that direction. I listened, and then gave a shout. But my first idea was that Spikes had been mistaken, as the echoes of Innuit voices on Whale Island were often heard. Soon, however, I was satisfied. An answer- ing shout from white men came back to mine. A boat, therefore, was soon manned by Smith, myself, Spikes, Bill, and young Smith, and away we went in the direction whence the sound had come. We made a quick passage down the harbor as far as open wa- ALL HANDS ABOARD. 841 tcr permitted; then we struek into broken ice, where our prog- ress became slower. But, by the good steering of tlie ekler Smith, we still pushed on, oftener using the ice for our oars to rest against than water. Wc passed the "Ghost," which was now floating with the tide ; and her bow — or so much of it as was above wa- ter — became a resisting medium on which the starboard oars of our boat found hold in several heavy pulls. Presently we came to a desolate island, and on it we found Morgan, Bailey, Keeney, and Ebierbing, who had come from a point some three miles below, and made their way there by trudg- ing over ice, ferrying across spaces of water on drifting ice, wad- ing, etc. This party was but a small portion of the one that left tlie whaling depot in the morning for the ship. The remainder had stopped for the night at a point below, where, owing to the ice, the boats they had with them could not be taken farther. Morgan and his company, however, felt determined to try and reach the vessel that night, but had run great risks in so doing. The ice between the islands below was all in a disruptured state, and only by great daring did they succeed in getting to the place where we found them. In making across several channels their only way was to find a fragment of floating ice, place themselves upon it, and paddle over by a small piece of board which they found. We succeeded in getting this party to the vessel ; and, finally. Mates Rogers, Gardiner, and Lamb, each with his boat and crew, also arrived, though not without great difiiculty on account of the ice which they encountered on their way. And thus the whole ship's company were safe on board. The information given me by Mr. Rogers I found very inter- esting. It was as follows : On the day I left the whaling depot, Rogers — who, with an Innuit crew, had gone up Frobishcr Baj- — arrived at the native settlement beyond Evictoon. Here they found Sampson, Ook- goo-al-loo, their families, and the old lady Innuits, whom I met the previous April, as mentioned page 2G6. For some time Rog- ers did not recognize Sampson, though well acquainted with him, for he was completely changed in appearance, and not much more than a mere skeleton. lie was informed that, some weeks before, a little pimple made its appearance near Sampson's left breast. It received a scratch. Inflammation followed, and this ha^n- creased so much that his very vitals were being eaten out. The sight was horrible ! No Innuit of Rogers's crew dared behold it. 342 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION, Nothing was done, or could then be done, to alleviate Sampson's distress or arrest the progress of his disease, which was evidently, as Rogers thought, a cancer. It was neglected, and the dirt, tuk- too hair, etc., that were allowed to accumulate, within it, irritated the sore and hastened its progress, Ookgooalloo was also confined to his tupic, unable to sit up, and spitting blood. And the other Innuits seemed to be all starv- ing, only one man being in a condition to go out and hunt for food. On the following mcrning Rogers started for an island a little farther up, and arrived there at 11 A.M. While there he visited a place in which, he was informed by the natives, a good harbor could be found; and he saw that such was the case for small vessels, but not for the Qeorge Ilenrij, as only eight feet wa- ter, and this over black sandy bottom, could be found. He re- mained an hour there, and then struck a course direct down the bay for the whaling ddpot. The wind, however, came against him with so great force that he was obliged to make for Samp- son's settlement, and remain there for that night. Next morning he again set out, and on the way his Innuit crew killed many ducks, which they ate raw. Rogers was offered some, but he said to me, " I could not go //(«/." lie arrived at the whaling depot, at Cape True, about 11 P.M. on the 26th. and finally re- turned to the ship as already stated. The return of the Georrje Homjs crew on board, and the break- ing up of the ice, were the signal for the ship's departure to anoth- er place, to try anew the chances of whaling ; but with all relating to such work, except where it is connected with my own personal labors, I have nothing to do. My task was that of research, ex- ploration, and discovery, and not to aid in the capture of whales, albeit that, in itself, was an exciting and adventurous occupation. I had come to the North for another and, to me, a more glorious purpose. When, therefore, the time approached for the vessel to move away, the hour had also come for me to leave her and take up my abode with the natives, as I had originally proposed. What my plans and intentions were, as noted and recorded at the time, I will now proceed to show. It was now the 28th of July, 1861. In two or three days the vessel was to leave Rescue Harbor to cruise for whales. I intend- edjftierefore, to make a boat voyage to explore the so-called " Fro- bisher Strait," which had been proved to me, by Innuit testimony * See page 12C, and the Sketch Chart, page 125. •X- ) AUTHOR LEAVES THE SHIP TO EXPLORE. 343 in the fall of 1860, while in Rescue Harbor, to be a bay. The course I purposed to pursue was down and across Field Bay to Lupton Channel and Bear Sound, and thence along the northern coast of the misnamed " strait" to its termination, and thence, if possible, down Kingaite {Meta Incognita) side ; then crossing over to " North Foreland," and returning to Field Bay by way of the south side of the " dreaded land," and thence through Bear Sound and Lupton Channel. The boat which I now had was not as good by any means as I should haVe wished, but I was obliged to make it answer. My crew were to be all Innuits. I had ar- ranged for Ebierbing and Tookoolito, Koodloo and Jennie his wife, and f)robably Jennie, sister of Ebierbing, to be of the party, with Suzhi also, who was likely to be exceedingly useful, in con- sequence of her great strength, notwithstanding her weight, which was not less than 200 pounds. I expected to be gone two months, at the end of which time, if the vessel should still be hereabouts, I would again rc\join her to return to the States. I earnestly hoped to succeed in accomplishing all this. God willing, I was resolved it should be done. The vessel was expected to sail on the 30th. I therefore gath- ered up some of the things I designed taking with me on my boat voyage, and carried them on shore to Ebierbing's tuple. On Tuesday, the 30th, A.M., preparations were made to weigh anchor. The time had come for me to leave. I placed such other things as I required ia the old, rotten, leaky, and ice-beaten whale-boat with which I was to make my voyage to the head of Frobisher Bay. I also compared my chronometer with the George Henry's ; my two assistants, Jennie and little Ookoodlear, were in the boat to pull me on shore, and now nothing remained but to take leave of captain, officers, and crew. It was done. The farewell was uttered. The George Henry was under sail, and I set out on my way to Whale Island, to com- mence life in earnest among the Esquimaux. I took up my abode in the tupic of Ebierbing and Tookoolito, other natives, relatives of theirs, being with us and near by. As I walked about — the only white man among them — my po- sition seemed, and in reality was, strange. At last alone ; the ship gone ; all of my own people, my own blood, my own lan- guage, departed ; and now, by myself, to do whatever work I could. Well, this was what I designed. I would not despond. It was good. Freedom dwells in the North — freedom to live as 844 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. one pleases, act as one pleases, and go where and when one pleases ; so I determined to look brightly forward, placing all my dependence on God. I watched the ship's progress. She got along but slowly. There was a light wind i'rom the southeast against her. It was tack, tack, all the day long. Every now and then I ascended a hill on the island to look at her. It was past meridian before she got down as low as Parker's Bay.* By evening she had reached French Ilead, but late in the P.M. had drifted back, evidently with the tide, to Parker's Bay. White clouds now capped the high land about there, which was the precursor of a storm. During the day, Sharkey, E-e-u-ar-ping (the latter the youngest son of Artark2)aru), and u boat's crew of those Innuits remaining at Eescue Ilarbor, started off' to French Head. Koodloo also, in my boat, with Suzhi and Ookoodlear, with the children, went among the islands ducking, but obtained only two ducks. Wish- ing to manufacture some balls of the lead which I had with me for my rifle and Koodloo's gun, the thought came into my head that the hull of the liescuehad still some hard coal in her, and that, by taking advantage of the low tide, I could obtain it; therefore I and Koodloo, with Suzhi, went in the boat to the "ghost." The tide was still ebbing when we got alongside, but, on examination, it was found that the water inside of her was too deep to fish for coal. AVe therefore started elsewhere to fish for something else, or try for seal. Wc drew up to the point of an island to gratify the Innuits in killing some little birds about the size of our rob- ins at home, but here called by the natives sik-yar-iing. They were too small game for the expense of powder, therefore Kood- loo tried to kill them by throwing stones, but failed, though they were by no means shy. We then rowed off to look for seals. Presently we saw one. My rifle was instantly raised, but just as I pulled the trigger a little boy in the boat lifted himself up and unsettled my aim. The seal went off, much to our vexation, as wc had nothing on shore to cat except the two ducks. We again saw the seal, but were unable to kill it; therefore wc returned to the "ghost," and this time were able to enter her hull. After some trouble I succeeded in procuring about two and a half buck- ets of hard coal, and having had an old stove placed in my boat when I left the ship to leave on Whale Island, the present acqui- sition made it very serviceable. * Named after Captain John Parker, of Hull, England. Parker's Bay makes westward from Field Bay, and is in Int. G2° 48' N., and long. C4° .'».''>' W. KHIKIIBINO SICK.— THE FKMALK ANGKKO. 84u 111 tlio evening Sharkey anil ten more Innuits returned with- out any success in procuring food. Thus we had a huge com- pany now here, and nothing to eat except the two ducks. True, I had a barrel of sea-bread, about twenty pounds of salt pork, a ninety-pound can of pommican, ten i)()unds of coifee, two gallons ol' molasses, one pound of tea, and half a pound of pepper, all of which, excepting the penunieaii, I procured at the ship by ex- change. But this stock was for my Frobisher Bay expedition, not for* consumption liere. Unfortunately, my right-hand man Kbierbing was now very sick, but I was in hopes 1 should bring him round again in two or three days. I had taken from the ves- sel my case of medicines, and with these I hoped to do him some good. I took one more look at the ship. There she was, still en- deavoring to get out of the bay, but with no wind to help her. I thought she would, perhaps, be out of sight before the morning. Farewell, then, I said in my heart, gallant ship, and may good luck attend you. Good-night to all. I then retired to my Innuit bed, among my honest, kind-hearted Innuit friends. On "Wednesday, July 31st, hardly awake, and still on my sleep- ing-couch, I heard an exclamation of surprise from Tookoolito, who had gone outside the tupic. The wind was blowing a gale, with rain. Tookoolito's cry was, "Ship coming back!" Up I '^ot, and, on rushing to the skin doorwa}', true enough, there was the George Henrij nearly np the bay. 1 watched her. She ad- vanced still higher up, and presently dropped anchor northwest of us, some two or three miles off. The return of the Georcje lien- rif was wi.se, for the gale had become furious, and, had she contin- ued on, it might have driven her on shore lower down the bay. Once more, then, the ship and her company were near me. Lit- tle had I expected this when looking at lier the evening before. I may here as well relate something very curious, which I have recorded under this date as having occurred during the previous night. Ebierbing was very ill, and both his wife and his aunt were alarmed. The latter went out at midnight, and brought in Jennie, wife of Koodloo, who is a female angeko, to practise on tlie sufferer. She took her position at once, sitting, Innuit fash- ion, in a corner of the tupic, facing from us, and proceeded with her incantations, while deep seriousness fell on all around. As she w^cnt on,ejaculatory expressions of approbation were occasion- ally uttered by the persons present, as also by the patient. Pres- ently Ebierbing became more calm, his pains scented to decrease. 346 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. and finally he fell asleep, and actually slept well ! This is strange, most " passing strange ;" yet it is a fact ihat the ankooting does seemingly benefit the patient, acting as a charm. The mind be- ing diverted from all thought of the clay house to something above which the soul aspires to reach, makes one forgetful that there is any thing like pain in his or her system. This people, knowing that J did not make fun of them or taunt them for believing as they do, had confidence in me, therefore 1 was a privileged one in their midst when ankooting was going on. It is against their customs to have any but the family pres- ent, but hitherto I have always had access to their meetings. Let Christians plant a colony among the western Innuits, as has been done in Greenland, and in lime this people will become con- verts to Christianity, for that is the only true religion ; and the truth, when properly presented to honest minds, will be received with open hearts. Jeniue is not only a good angcko professionally, but also of pleasing features, and would pass for handsome with many judges of beauty. On the 1st of August the weather still continued .bad, with rain and mist, I was obliged to open my case of pemmican, and in doing so, found under the top a card, incased in tin, reading thus : " George Schlee, Cincinnati, Ohio. Farewell !" Though I am un- acquainted with the person whom this name represents, yet this told me that some one in the employ of 11. W. Stephenson, of Cincinnati — the maker and sealer up of my pemmican cans — had kind thoughts and good wishes for me, though a stranger to him. "Fareweir' is a word of rich import from well-known friends, but from a stranger, whose soul may be beating in unison for the same noble cause to which one devotes his life, the word becomes almost sacred to the life and heart of the adventurer. The next day Ebierbing still continued very sick. Several of the natives took a boat and went up to the ship ; and I heard that she was to remain in the bay, seeking a secure harbor higher up. Later in the day I saw her under sail, but the fog soon closed her from my view. An extract from my journal of this date (Friday, August 2) runs thus : " This morning for breakfast cold rock pemmican. It goes better this way than when made into soup. The two families al- ready mentioned as members of the expedition trip I purpose to PEMMICAN.— VISIT THE SHIP. 347 make seemed to like it. A very little of this solid, ricli food sat- isfies one's appetite. This article is eaten, not because it tastes good, for it does not, hut to live. It is almost like eating tallow candles. One must have a sharp appetite to eat pemmican in the usual way it is prepared. In the manufacture of mine I used the best of beef and beef suet in the place of what is generally used, to wit, beef and hog's fat. The composition consists of an equal weight of beef (dried and granulated) and beef suet, which are in- corporated while the latter is hot, and then put up in tin cans and hermetically sealed. Thus made and put up, it will keep good for years. One pound of my pemmican is equivalent to two and a lialf pounds of fresh beef-steak. Four pounds of fresh beef, on be- ing dried, is reduced to a pound." At 2 30 P.M. I went up to make my call on Captain B in his new harbor, two and one half miles off, taking with me Kood- loo and other Innuits as my boat's crew. We soon arrived, and after the first greeting between us, I mentioned my desire to take Koojesse with me instead of Ebierbing, who was too sick to go on my Frobisher Bay trip. The arrangement was made, so far as concerned Captain B (he having pre-engaged Koojesse's serv- ices), and, after a short stay on board, I departed. There was some difficulty in getting back to my Innuit home, owing to both wind and tide being against me, and, when the isl- and was reached, my boat could not be hauled up on account of low water. I was therefore obliged to keep on the watch nearly all night, to guard against the danger of losing her. The night was a stormy one ; the rain, at times, descending in torrents, and the wind blowing furiously. Every now and then I enveloped myself in an oil-cloth suit, and went down to watch the condition of the boat. The tide would soon be up so far as to enable us to draw her on the beach ; so, thinking that all was right, I laid myself down to rest. About 2 A.M. of the 3d, however, I was aroused by invalid Ebierbing, who said that, from the noise, the sea was beating on shore. Immediately I went down to the boat, and, finding it fti a precarious condition, called up all the natives, and with their aid at once had her dragged above reach of the sea. This done, I again retired to my couch, and slept soundly till the musical voice of Angeko Jennie once more aroused me. Looking round, I saw she was renewing her professional practice over her patient. Too- koolito and Suzhi were seriously, I may say sokmnhj engaged in 348 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. the exercises, enthusiastically making tlicir responses to Jennie's ejaculations. Tlic efl'ect upon the sufl'ering patient, Ebicrbing, was, as before, quite beneficial. On Sunday, the 4th of August, while in the tupic, I learned something that surprised me. On the previous day myself and some Innuits had gone ducking and sealing without any success. Now I was told that our ill luck was on account of our working during Ebicrbing's sickness, as all of the natives, including intelli- gent Tookoolito, sincerely believe. They consider that it is wrong to work when one of their number is sick, and especially to work on sldns that arc intended to hccp out luatcr ; for instance, it is wrong to work making kum-ings (outside or water-proof boots) and covering for boats. The way I happened to find this out was as follows : I had ar- ranged for Koodloo to make a sealskin covering for Ebicrbing's kia, and to put it on. This morning, as nothing else could be done on account of the bad weather, I asked Tookoolito if Kood- loo could not proceed with it. To my astonishment, she replied that " Innuits could not do such work at the present time." Iler answer seemed to me so strange that I made farther inquiries of her, when she told me that "if they worked on the skins for the kia, Ebicrbing would never get well ; he would die. The '■first Innuits' adhered to this custom, and they must too. All their peo- ple believe this, and could not help it. Many Innuits had died because of the working on skins for kias and kum-ings while one of their number about them was sick at the time." She add- ed, " The reason why Koodloo could not shoot any thing yester- day, though close by jomc ducks, was because wrong was done in wprking while Ebicrbing lay sick." " But,"' said I to Tookoolito, as I was eng; ged chafing Ebicr- bing's side and back, and applying liniment, •' what are you do- ing now but working?" She replied, holding up her hands full of needles that were fly- ing swiftly in knitting, ''■This is not loorh.'''' Her answer nearly made me laugh aloud ; but I repressed the feeling, and quietly accepted her definition of what was or was not work. I was also told that during Ebicrbing's sickness the angeko must do no work on any account. We were now living on pemmican and coffee. I dealt out enough bread for Ebicrbing, as he was sick, but there was no sup- ply for any of us yet. Sunday night was a stormy one, with the LIFE AMONG INNUITS. 349 wind from the northeast blowing almost a gale. Every thing was in a wet state, outside and in, except bedding and clothing. A flood of water occupied half of the tupic. It would astonish most people at home to see how comfortably I lived with the Innuits, like one of themselves. While I jotted down notes, or more fully wrote out notes previously made, Suzhi chanted some Innuit tune, and Ebierbing and Tookoolito enjoyed what among civilized white Colks would be a " tea-table chat." We lived also, at times, on pemmican and kelp, a sea-weed gath- ered by the Innmts when the tide is out. These people are not exclusivchj flesh-caters, for in the summer-time they occasionally gather and eat a few berries and leaves of stunted wild plants that grow sparsely in these regions. Both summer and winter they collect kelp, and eat it, but only as a sort of luxury, except in case of great scarcity of food, and then they fall back upon this resource. I have acquired a taste for this sea-weed, and cat it as they do, raw or boiled, in which latter state it is more tender. The stormy weather continued some days, and no work could be done. On Tuesday, August 6th, the wind blew a gale, with rain. On Wednesday we had a little better weather, and I went over to the ship again to see Captain B . I hoped to set out on my trip up Frobisher Bay within a day or two. On Wednes- day evening, during ebb tide, the "ghost" of the Rescue drifted out of the harbor into the bay, and went seaward. I thought this was probably the last we should sec of her. On the same even- ing I communicated to Ebierbing and Tookoolito my intended immediate departure, and informed them that I had made ar- rangements with the captain for their removal nearer the ship, so that Ebierbing might receive some better attention. They were sorrowful at my leaving, but hoped to see me again before many weeks. I then requested Ebierbing to assist me in persuading Koodloo and his nuliana "Jennie" to accompany me, which would just complete my npw proposed crew. I soon found that both Ebier- bing and Tookoolito were very loth to have the angeko (Jennie) leave while Ebierbing was sick. I therefore gave her up, accept- ing Koodloo's offer to go without her. On Thursday morning, the 8th of August, I found that Ebier- bing had slept better than for several nights past. At 9 A.M., while Koodloo was on the top of our island (Whale Island), he cried down to Tookoolito, v.'ho was making our morning coffee 7 O O 350 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. under tLe ice oi some rocks, that a boat was coming from the ship. I ran up, and was delighted to find it so, for I knew by this that the proposals I had made to the Innuits Koojesse and Charley, whom, with their wives, I wanted for my crew, had been accepted ; and yet I was pained, as I thought of the necessity of leaving behind my foithful friends Ebicrbiug and Tookoolito. I hastened back, took my cup of coffee and dish of lump pemmican, and breakfasted. Well, the boat arrived, and brought me a note from Captain B . I told Ebierbing that we could now remove him and his effects ; tbat Captain B had kindly responded to my request, and sent down for him, and that so good an opportunity ought not to be lost. lie was w "ing to do as I advised, but Koodloo was slow to move. Meanwhile almost a gale had sprung up in the east, rendering it inexpedient to venture to take Ebierbing to the ship in his weak state. As it was necessary -to visit the ship prior to my final departure on the proposed voyage, I left Ebier- bing and Tookoolito with the assurance that I would call. again the next day, and that they would be removed as soon as Ebier- bing could bear it and the weather should permit. We arrived on board just at noon. Shortly after, Koojesse and Charley came aboard from the Innuit village near the ship, when I soon found that they were fearful I wished to prolong my stay at the head of Frobisher Bay until the cold weather, and, if so, they were not disposed to go. I therefore explained to them that I should prob- ably return in about a month, or, at farthest, in less than two months. They were then quite satisfied, and agreed to accom- pany me. My journal of this day, August 8th, 1861, concludes thus : "As I meet Koojesse and Kooperneung (Charley), I find them in capital spirits. At tea their wives Tu-nuk-der-licn and Ak- chuk-cr-zhun are aboard, and appear in good new dresses, and hair dressed in ' States fashion.' Converse with them of the voy- age we are about to make to ' wcs-see-jwJce^ (far-off' land). I am highly elated, my crew so far excellent. Captain B , with whom I have counseled, advises me to take Ebierbing's aunt, Koo-ou-le-arng (Suzhi), making, with Koodloo, a crew of six — five at the oars and one boat-steerer, leaving me free to be constantly on the look-out. The only objection to Suzhi is that she is very heavy, weighing not less than 200 pounds — the very heaviest In- nuit of the country. PREPARATIONS COMPLETE. 35I "All arrangements are now made to start from the vessel early to-morrow morning. Breakfast is ordered by Captain B to be in readiness at 5 A.M. The Innuits arc to strike their tupics, and have them in the boat, and be alongside at that hour. The weather is now good, and to-night gives every indication of a fair day to-morrow. May it prove so. I have taken out of the ship's " run" a can (ninety pounds) of pemmican, aud one cask of ' Bor- den's' meat-biscuit (about one hundred pounds), brought with me from home. These I shall carry along in the boat, being the most condensed form of valuable provisions. Not that I expect these will be the only provisions I shall have, for there is reason to suppose we shall acquire mucH in going up Frobisher Bay in the way of ducks, seals, and reindeer, the latter when we arrive at the head of Frobisher Bay. "At a late hour I turn in, to rise early, that we may be off to reap the benefit of a fair tide not only in going down to, but pro- ceeding through Lupton Channel. An ebb tide will favor us much in getting to the channel, and the flood in getting through it." 352 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. CHAPTER XXI. ^artuvc on Boat-voyage to explore Frobishcr Bay. — An Innuit Crew. — Aiitlior le only White M-.in. — Arrives at Liipton Channel, and makes first Encampment. Next Pay's Journey. — Innuit Mode of drowning Ducks. — Joyousness of the (' V. — Passing through Bear Sound. — Visit the deserted Whaling Dejiot. — Sec- ond *^ncam]iment on Siiarko. — Third Day's Trip. — A Bear-hunt in the Water. — Author's narrow Escape. — Land on»Oopungnewing. — Musquitoes again. — Visit Niountelik. — Explore tlie Island. — Important Discovery. — "Sea-coal!" — Proof of Frobishcr's Expedition having visited here. — Joy of the Author. — Corroborative Testimony of Innuits from Tradition. — Carefully examine a Deposit of Coal. — Return to Oopungnewing. — Great Feast on the Bear. — Innuit Customs. — Bear's Bladder and Charms. — Polar Bear's Liver poisonous. '•'■Friday, August 9l/i, 18G1. I was up in good season, and got every thing in readiness ; then started ofF in a boat a company of young Innuits — ' trundle-bed Innuits,' as Captain B called them — who slept aboard the George Henry last night, to call uj) Koojesse, and Kooperncung, and their nulianas (wives). " Breakfast was ready at the appointed moment, and the Innu- its of my company ready for it. This dispatched, my bag and baggage were placed snugly in the boat, along with the alrcad} well-packed assortment such as Innuits have. As usual in start- ing off, I compared chronometers. * * * * * " All in readiness and aboard, we start, purposing to stop at Whale Island for Koodloo, Koo-ou-le-arng (Suzhi), and my things, as well as to bid ni}' Innuit children, Ebierbing and Tookoolito, good-by. All hands were on deck to witness our departure. Caj)tain B 's smiling face, of course, was not wanting in the picture the scene presented. As the boat was pushed out into fair water for a ' white-ash breeze,' standing with steering-oar in my hand, I asked Captain B if — ' in the name of God and the Continental' Congress' — I should take possession of the country I was about to visit and explore, planting the American flag upon it. " He answering affirmatively, I then bade him and all adieu, expressing the hope that when I returned I should find ever}- cask of the George Henry overflowing with oil, and all her decks filled high with bone. * EXl'LOUING EXPEDITION. 353 "We started from the vessel at 6 14 A.M., and arrived at Whale Island at 7. I found the Innuits, my friends Ebierbing and Too- koolito, expecting me. They seem to regret they can not accom- pany me on this trip. I was glad to find Ebierbing improving. Having spent a few moments with them, I told them that, to make out my crew, I must have Koo-ou-le-arng, Ebierbing's aunt, if they could spare her. In ten minutes she was ready for the journey of two months. I called on Koodloo, who made all haste in pre- paring to accompany me. Jennie, Koodloo's wife, as I have said, could not be spared, as Ebierbing and Tookoolito thought her in- dispensable in her profession as an angeko for the former while he is sick. "As we (Koodloo and I) had not succeeded in getting any thing of consequence in the way of fresh provisions for Ebierbing and Tookoolito during my stay upon Whale Island, I left them the remainder of the can of pemmican on hand, also a small portion of the bread, coffee, and tea of the allotment to me for my Fro- bishcr Bay trip. Captain B is to send a boat from the George Henry for these Innuits, also for Koodloo's wife and children, to remove them to the place where the other Innuits are, near the present position of the vessel." It was 8 A.M. when wo left Whale Island, Eescue Harbor, under sail. My company consisted of Koojesse and his wife Tu- nuk-der-licn ("Belle"), Koo-per-ne-ung ("Charley,"), and his wife Ak-chuk-er-zhun (" Susy"), Kood-loo, and the widow Koo-ou-le- arng ("Suzhi"). They were all in excellent spirits as well as myself In about forty minutes a boat came alongside manned with Innuits, who were on their way across the bay for a tuktoo hunt. • From the ship to Whale Island, and also from Whale Island out into the bay, we encountered much ice that the wind and tide had driven in from Davis's Straits. Between Parker's Bay and French Head we made an island which I found to be entirely of rock, without a particle of vegetation or of soil. An impenetrable fog had surrounded us nearly all the afternoon, and the boat com- pass was in constant use until toward evening, when the fog be- gan to lift. Charley shot a seal at a long distance with my rifle. We now had a raw seal feast. As we approached Lupton Chan- nel — which it was doubtful if we could get through, on account of the quantity of ice — we passed a berg, which Tunukderlien as- Z 354 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. ccndcd. At 6 44 P.M. we reached the entrance of Lupton Chan- nel, and found a strong tide running into Field Bay, whirling, foaming, roaring, and boiling like a caldron. As we labored on, at our right were the iron cliffs of Bache's Peninsula,* and con- spicuous among them was a bold rock terminating like a chim- ney-top. On the left lay Lok's Land, the " much-dreaded land" of the Innuits ; and looking forward down the channel, we saw the bold front of Ellis Island. By dint of hard pulling we at last got through the channel, but I had to give up all idea of reaching Cape True that night, as had been my intention and hope. Wo therefore stopped at 8 P.M. in a small cove on the southeast side of Bache's Peninsula, and opposite to Ellis Island, and there made our first encampmcnt.f Ducks were abundant, and the Innuits shot several. Wc found wood plentiful, from the wreck of the Traveller. We were closely packed this first night out in our large tupic, after a glorious supper of seal, ducks, and coffee. Ilerc we found relics of former Innuit encampments, circles of stones, bones of seal, walrus, etc. AVc saw a white whale making its way up the channel. Next morning, Saturday, August 10th, 1861, at 8 A.M., we pro- ceeded on our voyage. In passing down through Bear Sound, soon after leaving, I witnessed a novel j^rocccding on the part of my companions. It consisted in drowning some of the ducks that played about us in large numbers. This cruel metliod of obtaining game was used to save shot and powder, and the man- ner of accomplishing it is as follows : A flock of ducks was seen swimming some distance ahead of us. As we approached, most of them flapped their wings and flew away, but the rest dived below the siftface of the water. One of them was selected for the subject of Innuit amusement, thus : whenever it popped its head out of water, the natives made a great noise, accompanied with every conceivable motion, throw- ing about their hands and arms to frighten the bird down again. On its reappearance, wherever it showed itself, the boat was steer- ed by Koojcsse toward it. Then the same noise and frantic ges- tures were repeated, and continued without intermission, so as to * I have named this peninsula after A. D. Bnchc, Superintendent of the United States Coast Siir\-cy. It is bounded by Field Bay, Lupton Channel, Bear Sound, and Chapell Inlet. t First encampment in lat. C2° 33' N., long. G4° 43' W. PASSING TllBOnOII LIII'TON CHANNEL, NOVEL DUCK-HUNT. 357 allow not one moment's breathing-time to the terrified duck. Koodloo stood on the bow of the boat, pointing out the course taken by the duck, which could bo easily traced in the clear wa- ters below, and on the instant of the sign being given, Koojcsse most expertly turned the boat in the direction indicated. In seven minutes the duck gave up the chase. It came to the sur- face utterly exhausted, and was easily captured by Koodloo, who hauled it in with his hand. The joyous feelings displayed by the Innuits over this capture, which was to them a source of amusement, was hardly less than if they had killed a Ninoo. The rocks and hills bordering on Bear Sound resounded with their joyous shouts and boisterous laughter. Echo sent back their merry voices, until I myself, though vexed at any delays that might retard us, could not help joining in the hilarity of the scene. This way of securing ducks was continued for some time, and ended with what was to me an affecting trait of nature, always touching to the heart. One of the ducks caught was a mother, with its young still unfledged. The parent was dying, and the fledgling, at each gasp of its mother, would place its beak in con- tact with that of its parent, as if soliciting food, and then crouch beneath th6 old duck's wings to nestle there. Again and again was this done, as if trying all its power to attract the watchful at- tention of its mother; but it was soon left alone, and Tunukder- lien then took care of it. So much time had been consumed in drowning ducks and in sealing that the tide was now against us, forcing us to hold over a while; therefore we landed on Lefferts Island,* which is in the midst of Bear Sound. Here I took fi walk back upon the island while the Innuits were feasting on ducks and seal. At meridian I took observations for latitude, and soon after we again started, making our way down on the west side of the sound. The ducks we now saw were innumerable ; the water and air were black with them. On arriving at Cape True, the old whab'ng depot, we rested a while, and I examined the now deserted place. Of course no white man's tent or Innuit tuples were to be seen, but several frag- ments denoted what had existed there. Frobisher Bay had no ice upon its waters except a few bergs, ♦ So nnmed by me after Marshnll Lefferts, of New York City. Tliis island is the largest in Bear Sound. 358 AUCTIC IIKSKAUCII KXrHDITION. luul not a ripplo disturbed its glassy Hnrlaco. Tins compelled us to use the oars Tor suino time after leiiving tiiis place, and what with the many slojipages made lor game by my Innuit eompan- ions, and a log that al'terward settled upon uh, it was a tedious [lassago to our seeond eueainj)ment, which was at Capo Cracrol'l,* a pi)int of land connected by a narrow neck with l^lunt's i'enin- sula,t iuHtcad of at Niounlelik, as wo had expected. Wo ])assed the nij^ht as the jirevious one, and tho next morn- ing again proceedeil direct for Oopungnewing Island. Tiio same kind of tantali/.ingbut exciting chase after ducks diilayed us con- siderably, until wlien about two miles from (.Oopungnewing. Koo- jesse was steering, when, suddenly taking up my spyghuss, and directing it to some islets near ()oj)ungnewing, ho cried out, "Ni- noo ! Ninoo !'' This was enough to make each of liic boat's crew spring into new lile, for of all giiUie that they delight in Ninoo is the chief. They started ahead with fresh vigor, the women })ull- ing hard, but as noiselessly as they could, and tho men loading their guns reaily for tho attack. 1 relieved Koojesse at the steer- ing-oar. \Vlien wo first saw Ninoo wc were about two miles distant from it, and I could perceive this "lion of tho North" lying down, ap. parently asleep ; but when within lialf a mile Ninoo saw us, raised liimself upon his haunches, looked around, then fixedly at u.s, and olV he started. Inunediately tho men began to make some most hideous noises, which arrested Ninoo in his course, and caused him to turn round. This was what wc wanted, to gain time in the chase which had now b(>gun. But Ninoo was not so easily cn- trajipcd. His stay was only for a moment. Oil' he went again, fiying over the island, and quickly disappuarinp; Then, with a strong pull, and a firm, steady one, the boat was sent swiftly along. Presently a point of the islet where we had seen Ninoo was rounded, and again wo beheld him far ahead of us, swimming di- rect for Oopungnewing. This encouraged tho Innuits. They re- newed their shouts without intermission. Every now and then the object of our pursuit would wheel his huge form around, and take a look at his pursuers ; and now the chase became very ex- * This cnpo, jit tho somhenst side of tho entrance to the Countess of Warwick's Sound (of Frobislier), I name nftor Miss Craeroft, niece of Lady Franklin. It is in lat. (52=^ 41' 30" N., lonp. Gr>° 07' W. f The land hounded by Rnyaid Taylor Pass, Field Bay, Cliapell Inlet, and Fi'o- bislicr Bay, I have named after Edward and Geor^je W. Blunt, of New York City. rOLAIl-UKAU IIUN'I'. 859 citing. Wo wcro gaining on liitn. Ninoo saw tliis, and tliorcforo tried to balllo iis. IIo .suddenly cliangiMl liis (;(jnr,s(i, und went t)ut directly Ibr the niiiUllo of the bay. In an instant wc did the same, the oltl cni/y boat bonnding I'orward a« HvviCtly as our oara- nion could propel it in the heavy sea that then prevailed. ]\\xi wo could not gain upon him. He Hoenu; N., long. 65° 51' W. t Named by mo after John Barrow, of London, England. It is bounded by New- ton's Fiord, Peter Force Sound, Frobisiier Bay, and Ilaralen'g Bay. ( Vide Chart.) TIN-NE-TOOK-KE-YARN. 875 hunt tuktoo. The boat kept close in shore until we came to Hamlen's Bay,* which had to be crossed. Hem I embarked with Charley, and with a fair breeze we sped across r.t the rate of about five miles an hour. On the west side of the entrance to this bay were some islands, between which and the main land was a chan- nel ; and, in order to get to the northward and westward (which, being the general trend of the coast thus far, I had reason to sup- pose to be probably its direction to the head of the bay), we must pass througli this channel. We should have done so without de- lay but that the ebb of the tide had left it dry. Not being aware of this, I told Koojcsse to go on. With a twinkle in his eye, he said, "Well, you tell 'em so — we try." Accordingly we went on until, I'ounding an island that was at the mouth of the chan- nel which is called by the Innuits Tin-ne-look-ke-yarn (Low-tide Land), I saw we were on the verge of dry land. A rise and fall of twenty-five feet in the tide made that impassable at low water which six hours before was a deep channel. Koojesse, on seeing my surprise, looked at me with such a mer- ry laugh that I could not rebuke him had I been so inclined. We turned the boat round, and formed our sixth encampment upon Blanchard's Island.f In the early part of this day, while yet close to Brewster's Point, and while walking on the beach, I met with remains of many in- nuit habitations of former days, when they used to build them of earth and stone. Bones of the whale, and of all other animals that principally serve the Innuits for subsistence, lay there in abundance, many of them very old,' their age probably number- ing hundreds of years. One shoulder-blade of a whale measured five feet along its arc, and four feet radius. Whale-ribs, also, were scattered here and there, one of them being eight feet in length. I also noticed there several graves, but nothing, not even a bone, within them. An old drift oil-cask was also there, sawn in two; one half was standing full of water, the other half was lying down. I gathered up the oak staves and heads for fuel. Next morning, Friday, August 16th, when I awoke, I found the tide ebbing fixst, and it was therefore necessary to get under way * Named nftcr S. L. Ilamlcn, of Cincinnati, Oliio. This bay runs up almost iliie north, and is five miles across at its mouth. The centre of its entrance is in hit. 02° .-.8' N., lonj!. 00° 10' W. t So named after George S. Blanchard, of Cincinnati, Ohio. Our sixth encamp- ment was in lat. 02° .'>8' N., and long. 00° 1 7' W. 876 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. at once. In a quarter of an hour we had every thing on board, and set out for the desperate work of running the " mill-race" of waters pouring over the rocks, whose tops were then near the sur- face. If we could not succeed in the attempt, we must either wait until next tide, or make a long detour outward around several islands. It was an exciting operation. Koojesse stood on the bread- cask that was at the bow of the boat, so that he might indicate the right passage among the rocks. Occasionally we touched some of them, but a motion of the boat-hook in his hand gener- ally led us right. There was a fine breeze helping us, and we also kept our oars at work. Indeed, it required all the power we could muster to carry us along against so fierce a tide. At one time, thump, thump we came upon the rocks at full speed, fairly arrested in our progress, and experiencing much difficulty in mov- ing forward again. But, favored by the breeze, we at last got through this channel, and soon stopped at an island to take our much-needed breakfast. That dispatched, we again pushed on, keeping along the coast. The land was low, with iron-looking mountains in the background. But some spots showed signs of verdure, and altogether, the day being fine, the scene was charm- ing. By evening we had arrived at Tongue Cape, on the east side of the entrance to Waddell Bay,* and there made our seventh encampment. The whole of the next day was spent by the male Innuits in hunting tuktoo, and by the women in sewing skins and attending to other domestic matters. As usual, I was occupied with my observations. On Sunday, August 18th, we left our seventh encampment and proceeded along the coast. As we neared Opera-Glass Cape, a point of land on the west side of Waddell Bay, round which we had to pass, a kia was observed approaching; and in a short time, to my great surprise, the old Innuit Artarkparu was alongside of us. This man was the iather of Koojesse's wife, and therefore the meeting was additionally pleasant. lie was, as may be recollect- ed, an invalid, having lost the free use of his lower limbs by a dis ease in his thighs ; } et he was rarely idle, every day going out sealing, ducking, or hunting for walrus and tuktoo. In the win- * Nnmed after Willinm Covoiiti-y II. WiuldcU, of New York City. Its cast side (Tongue Cape) is in lat. (ja° 1 1' 30", luul long. (HP 18' W. KI-A MAKING. 377 ter lie moved about by means of sledge and dogs, and no Inniiit was ever more patient or more successful than he. Artarkparu had come out from a village not far off, and to that place we di- rected the boat. We found four tupics erected there, and many fiimiliar faces soon greeted me. Annawa was among them, and also Shevikoo and Eshocloo. The females were busily occupied in sewing skins — some of which were in an offensive condition — for making a kia. A small space was allotted to them for this purpose, and it was particularly interesting to watch their pro- ceedings. The kia covering was bung over a pole resting on the rocks, every thing being kept in a wet state while the women worked, using large braided-thread of white-whale sinews. As I stood gazing upon the scene before me, Annawa's big boy was actually standing by his mother and nursing at the breast, she all the time continuing her work, while old Artarkparu hobbled about in the foreground by the aid of a staff in each hand. INMIIT HUMMKH V11.LAUK. Venison and seal-meat were hung to dry on strings stretched along the ridge of each tuple, as shown in the above engraving. 378 ARCTIC KESEARCII FXPEDITION. and provisions were clearly tibundant. In tlie tuple of Artiirk- paru, Koojessc and Tunukdcrlien wore at home feasting on raw venison, and with them I was invited to partake of the old man's hospitality. Before returning to the boat 1 also received, as a present, a pocket full of dried tuktoo meat, given me by Annawa. After a short stay and friendly adieu, we again departed on our way; but ju.st then I thought it possible that old Artarkparu might be able to give me some information. Accordingly I turn- ed back, and, through the aid of Koojessc as interpreter, entered into a conversation with him. "Wo seated ourselves by his side, and the first question 1 put to him was, llad he ever seen coal, brick, or iron on any of the land near Oopungnewing? lie im- mediately answered in the aflii'mativc. lie had seen coal and brick a great many times on an island which he called NiountcUk. He first saw them when he was a boy. He had also seen hcav}' pieces of iron on the point of Oopung- newing, next to Niountelik. "No iron there now, somebodv having carried it off." 1 ^ CD "Bricks and coals were at Kiountelik." 1 then asked him, "How many years ago was it when the In- nuiis first saw these things?" His reply was, " Am-a-su-ad-lo" (a great, (jvcat many). His fa- ther, when a boy, had seen theni there all the same. Had heard his father often talk about them. " Some of the pieces of iron were very hcav}', so that it was as much as the strongest Innuit could do to lift them." " Had often made trials of strength, in competition with other Innuitf, in lifting. It was quite a practice with the young men to see who was the strongest in lifting the '■hcary ■stout' " (Innuits so call the iron). " On the point of another island near by, an co-mi-ark-chu-a (ship) was once built by kodlunas (white men) a great many, many years ago — so the Innuits of a great many years ago had said.'" I took from the boat a little bag which contained .some of the coal that I had gathered up with my own hands at Niountelik, and asked him if it was like that he had seen. He said, "All the same." I then asked him "where it came from." His reply was, " He supposed from England, for lie had .seen the same kind on English whaling ve.s.scls in Northumberland Inlet." MORE NEWS OF THE FKOBISIIER RELICS. 881 This information I obtained from the del man ; and I could not help noticing how closely it corresponded with, that given to me by Ookijoxy Ninoo some months before. The whole interview was particularly interesting. I felt as if suddenly taken back into ages that were past ; and my heart truly rejoiced as I sat upon the rock and listened to what the old man said of these undoubted Frobisher relics. After this interview with Artarkparu, we started at 2 45 V.M. along the coast, closely examining its features, and noting down every thing of importance which we saw. The land was bold and high, with much of the iron-rust-look about it. Scarcely any veg- etation was perceptible. Numerous islands bordered the coast; and, as I looked across the outer waters, it seemed as if a complete chain stretched across the bay to Kingaitc. ' On reaching the spot which we selected for our eighth encamp- ment — Cape Stevens* — I left my crew to unload the boat and erect tuples, while I ascended a mountain that flanked us. On the top I found numerous shells and fossils, some of which I brought away. On descending I took the opposite or northeast side, next a bight that made up into the land. This side of the mountain was almost perpendicular. The winter forces of the North had thrown down to the base a mass of stone, which en- abled mc to pass upon a kind of causeway to the foot of another mount toward the tuples, There I could not help pausing and glancing around in wondering awe. I can not put on paper the feelings which struggled within me as I made my way over that debris, and looked above and around me. God built the mount- ains, and He tumbleth them down again at His will! Overhead was hanging the whole side of a mountain, ready, as it seemed, at any moment, and by the snap of one's finger, to foil ! I felt as if obliged to take light and gentle steps. I breathed softly ; and, as I looked and looked again, I praised God for all Ilis mighty works. I ought to say that, on a better view of this mountain, I per- ceived on its perpendicular side large caverns, with huge project- ing rocks hanging directly over them. I returned to the tuples ; and that night, as I lay on my back by our camp-fire, viewing the glorious heavens, I beheld the au- rora in all its wondrous beauty. In the vicinity of the moon, * Nnmetl by mc after Joliii A. Stevens, Ji\, of New York City. Cni)0 Stevens is iu lilt. G9^ 21' N., and long. 67° 10' W. 882 AUCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. where the aurora was dancing and racing to and fro, it was strangely grand. But the most remarkable phcnomcnoa of the kind 1 ever witnessed was the peculiar movement of the clouds overhead. For some length of time they moved by " hitches," pa.ssing with the wind slowly, and then stopping for a few seconds. I called the attention of the Innuits to it, and they noticed this a.s something tliey had never seen before. It seemed as if the clouds were battling with an unseen enemy, but that the former had the greater power, and forced their way by steps along the vault above. Those clouds were white, and of the kind classified as cumulus. I thought it a very strange matter, and, according to my idea, the aurora had something to do with it TD-noK-uEB-Lieii (wife of Kao-je)i-se). CONTINUE THE VOYAGE. 883 CIIAPTKR XXIir. Leave eighth Encampment. — Seals. — Meeting Innuits. — Mnli)er l)laco in the sequel of my narrative. 384 ARCTIC EESEARCU EXPEDITION. seals, but which, as will shortly be seen, were quite another sort of game. I walked among gigantic old rocks, well marked by the hand of Time, and then wandered away up the mountains. There I came across an Innuit grave. It was simply a number of stones piled up in such a way as to leave just room enough for the dead body without a stone touching it. All the stones were covered with the moss of generations. During my walk a storm of wind and raiij came on, and compelled me to take shelter under the Ice of a friendly ridge of rocks. There I could watcli Koojegsc and his company in the boat advancing toward what was thought an ookgook and many smaller seals. All at once what had seemed to be the ookgook commenced moving, and so likewise did the smaller seals. A slight lurn of the supposed game sud- denly gave to all a difl'erent appearance. I then jierceived a boat, with black gunwales, filled with Innuit men, women, and chil- dren, and also kias on each side of the boat. Seeing this, Koo- Jesse pulled in for me, and we started together for the strangers. A short time, however, ju'oved them to be friends. The large boat contained "Miner," his wife Tweroong,To-loo-ka-ah,his wife Koo-muk (louse), the woman Puto, and several others whom I knew. They were spending the summer up there deer-hunting, and had been very successful. Soon after joining them we all disembarked in a snug little harbor, and erected our tents in com- pany on Rae's Point,* which is close by an island called by the natives Ko-ook-too-ad-loo. The rain was pouring down when we landed, and the bustle that followed reminded" me of similar activity on the steam-boat piers at home. As fast as things were taken out of the boats, such as had to be kept dry were placed under the shelving of rocks until the tuples were up. Then, our encampment formed, all parties had leisure to greet each other, which we did most warmly. Tweroong was very ill, and appeared to me not far from her death. Iler uniform kindness to me wherever I liad met her made her condition a source of sadness to me. I could only ex- press my sympathy, and furnish her with a few civilized com- forts brouglit with me. She was the mother of Kooperneung, one. of my crew, by her first husband, then deceased. * Named by the author after Dr. Jolin Rne, the woll-knnwn English arctic explorer. Rne's Point, place of our ninth encampment, is in hit. C3° 20' N., long, C7° 33' W. INNUIT TRADITIONS. 385 A great feast was made that evening upon the rocks. A cap- tured ookgook was dissected by four carvers, who proved them- selves, as all Innuits are, skillful anatomists. Indeed, as I have before said, there is not a bone or fragment of a bone picked up but the Innuits can tell to what animal it belonged. In the even- ing I also took a walk about the neighborhood, and was aston- ished to see such an abundance of reindeer moss. The ground near our tents, was literally white with it, and I noticed many tuktoo tracks. Ouretay at this encampment continued over the next day, and I took the opportunity of questioning Tweroong, who was said to know much about the traditions of her people, as to any knowl- edge sne might possess concerning the coal, brick, and iron at Niountelik. Koojesse was my interpreter, and through him I gained the following information : Tweroong had frequently seen the coal there, and likewise heavy pieces of stone (iron) on an island close by. She had often heard the oldest Innuits speak of them. The coal and other things were there long before she was born. She had seen Innuits with pieces of brick tliat came from there. The pieces of brick were used for brightening the women's hair-rings and the brass orna- ments worn on their heads. ^ She said old Innuits related that very mamj years ago a boat, or small ship, was built by a few white men on a little island near Niountelik. I showed her the coal I had brought with me from Niountelik, and she recognized it directly as some like that she had seen. Owing to the condition of my own boat, I was anxious to have the company of another craft in my voyage up the bay. I ac- cordingly effected an arrangement with tlie Innuit "Miner" and his party to keep along with mc; and on the following day, Au- gust 21st, at 9 A.M., we all set out from the encampment to pur- sue our journey. While Koojesse and my crew were loading the boat,! ascended a moun|(iin close by, and, after as good a look around as the fog- gy weather would allow, I began to descend by another path. But I soon found that the way I had chosen was impracticable. The mountain-side was one vast rock, roof-like, and too steep for human feet. Finally, after a long, hard tug down hill, up hill, and along craggy rocks, I gained the beach, <^nd hailed the boat, which took me on board after a walk of two miles. r. B 386 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. We made what speed we could to the westward and northward, having to use the oars, the wind being right ahead. In an hour's time we ame to an island, where the other boat was stopping a while. Here I saw " Jack," the angeko, performing the ceremony of ankooting over poor sick Tweroong. The woman was reclin- ing on some tuktoo furs in the boat's bow, while Jack was seated on the tidc-wct rocks, making loud exclamations on her behalf. It is very strange what faith these people place in such incanta- tions. I never saw the ceremony otherwise than devoutly attend- ed to. I then took my usual exploring walk upon the island, see- ing the bones of a huge whale, portions of which were covered with moss, and the rest bleached to a pure white, but all a^heaVy as stone. When we again started, the sight of the two boats and two kias pulling side by side was particularly interesting. There were fourteen souls on board the other boat, men, women, and children, the women pulling at the oais ; in each of the two kias was also an Innuit maii. The raven hair of the females hanging loosely about the head and face — the flashing ornameiits of brass on their heads — their native dress — their methodical rock to and fro as they propelled the boat along, formed, indeed, a striking picture. All were abreast, the two boats and the two kias, and pulling in friendly competition. " [Miner" had a flag of cheeked red, white, and black at the bow of his boat, and the glorious ensign of the United States was streaming to the breeze at the bow of mine. To inc the scene was one of indescribable interest. In that re- gion — never before visited by white man, cxcej)t when Frobisher, three centuries ago, set foot thei'c — it was i)erfectly novel in its features, and I was truly thankful that I had been blessed witli the privilege of raising the "Flag of the Free" in that strange land. Our progress during the day was not very great, owing to the frequent stoppages of my Innuit cn^w. Let me be ever so anxious to get on, or to do any thing in the way of making observations, if a .seal popped up his head, or any thing ap])eared in tfac shape of game, away they would go in chase, utterly regardless of my wants or wishes. They meant no ill ; but the Innuits are like eagles — untamable. Before reaching our tenth encampment* that night, which was * Tn li\t. 0,1° 32' N., long. 07° .'51' W., hy a small cove one mile north of tlie iiii/ioiiaii island I liuvo numod " Fuouisiiek's Fauthlst," called by the Innuits Ki-ki-tuk-ju-a. FROBISIIER'S FAUTIIEST. 387 similar to tbe previous one, we passed numerous small bergs, left high and dry on the rocks near the coast by the low spring-tide, ;is seen in the accompanying engraving. IcrilKKCiH (IN TMK UillKS. — OUKAT KAIl On the Ibllowiiig morning, August 22d, we agaii' set out, mak- ing our way among numerous islands, and along land exhibiting luxuriant verdure. Miner's boat and company proceeded on up the bay, while Charley and I'were set ashore on the north side of the island "Frobisher's Farthest," leaving instructions with the rest of the crew that we would make our way in two or three hours northerly and westerly to the upper end of the isftnd, where we would get aboard. The place where we landed was very steep, and the ascent was laborious. I had belted to my side my five- 388 ARCTIC KESEAUCII EXPEDITION. pound chronometer, and also a pocket sextant. In my band I carried a compass tripod and azimuth compass. Charley bad bis double-barreled gun, ready for rabbits or any other game. After getting to the summit the view was very extensive. To the N.W. the appearance was as if the bay continued on between two headlands, one the termination of the ridge of mountains on the Kingaite, or Mda Incognita side, and the other the term- ination of the ridge running on the north side of Frobisher Bay. The coast of Kingaite was in full view, from the " Great Gate- way"* down to the •' President's Seat,"f a distance of one hund- red nautical miles. A line of islands — their number legion — shoot down from " Frobishor's Farthest" to the Kingaite coast. At noon and afterward the weather was exceedingly beautiful, and the water as smooth as a mirror. Kingaite side was showing itself in varying tints of blue, its even mountain range covered with snow, throwing a distinct shadow across the surface of the bay. The sun was warm, and yet casting a subdued light on all around. The rocks and mountains upon our right were bare, and of a red hue, while far to the southeast were the eternal snows of the Grinnell glacier. We encamped,:}: as before, among the friendly Innuits who had accompanied us, and on the next morning (August 23d), at an early hour, I went by myself for a walk among the hills. Mount- ains near the coast on that side of the bay had disappeared, the land being comparatively low and covered with verdure. I was delighted to find this such a beautiful country j the waters of the bay were teeming with animal life, and I thought that here was indeed the place to found a colony, if any one should ever renew the attempt in which Frobisher failed. Before I came back from my walk I perceived the camp-fires sending up their clouds of smoke, and I was soon after partak- ing of a hearty breakfast, cooked and served in Innuit fashion. Abundance was now the rule. Seals and blubber were so plenti- ful that quantities were left behind at our encampment. Even whole seals, with the exception of the skins, were frequently * Tlio opening between the two lieadinnds alliuk'il to above, wliicli are about ten miles to tlic noi'tliwest of the head of the Bay of Frobisher, I named the "Great Gatkway." t Tlie mqjt eonspicnoiis mountain on the coast of Frobislier Hay I named Presi- dent's Seat, after the cliief executive oflRcs-r of tlie United States government. Pres- ident's Seat is in lat. 02° .3!t' N., long. (5(i° 40' W. X Our eleventh eneaniimient was in Int. (ilP 38' N., long. OS" 10' W. * • HEAD OF FROBISHER J3AY. * 39I abandoned. Thus these children of the icy North live — one day starving, and the next having so muca Tood that they cure not to carry it away. We started at 10 A.M., and passed in sight of more low land, some of which was covered with grass. Sep-ls and ducks were so numerous that it was almost an incessant hunt — more from habit, on the part of the natives, than from necessity. The signs of reindeer being in the neighborhood were such that the males ot my boat's crew landed to seek them. Some of the Innuits of the other boat had done the same, and frequent reports of fire-arms gave evidence that the game was in view. Presently Koojessc returned, having killed one of the largest of the deer, and aftei' some trouble we got some portions of it on board — saddle, skin, hoofs, horns, and skull. My boat soon after carried at her bow not only the American flag, but also the noble antlers of the deer. I felt at home, with the flag of my country as my companion and inspir'ng theme. Eany in the day, before the shooting of the reindeer, I heard what seemed to be the roar of a cataract, and perceived that we must be approaching some large river. Presently I was astonish- ed by Suzhi saying to me, " Tar-ri-o nar-me'^ (this is not soa-wa- ter). She then took a tin cup, reached over the boat'|||pide, dip- ped up some of the water, and gave it to me, after first drinking some herself, to show me that it was good. I drank, and found it quite fresh. It was clear that the river was of considerable size, or it could not throw out such a volume of fresh water to a con- siderable distance from its mouth against a tide coming in. After a while we came to an estuary where the waters were alive with salmon. My Innuit crew were in ecstasies, and I too was greatly rejoiced. On a point of land at the mouth of this fine river we pitched our tents,* and away went the men for another hunt. They were out all night, and on the next morning, August 2-l:th, returned with two more deer. This, with what had been shot on the pre- vious day, made our list of game four reindeer, besides several seals and sea-birds. We might have had more, but the Innuits were now indifferent to every thing but the larger sort. * Our twelfth encnmpmont wns in Int. C,3° 43' .^0", long. 08° 2r>'. It wns on the west side of Sylvia Grinncll River, on a narrow strip of land called Tu-mi-zlioon, the south extreme of which is Atj-k-e-toon, which I named Tvler Davidson Point, after Tyl'or Davidson, of Cincinnati, Ohio. 392 * ARCTIC RESEARCH EXrEUlTION. While at this, our twelfth encampment, there was quite an ex- citement occasioned among the Innuits by chasing a " rat." There they were, when I went out of my tent, with clubs and stones, ready for battle with the little animal. But lo I in a few moments the rat proved to be a leming — an arctic mouse. It was hunt- ed out of its hiding-place and^ speedily killed. Shortly after an- other one was seen, chased, and killed in like manner. Both of them had very fine fur, and two of the Innuit women skinned the pretty little animals for* me. I asked Tweroong if her people ever ate such creatures. With a very wry face, she replied in broken English, '^ iSmallei/^^ (little, or seldgm). While we staid here, Tweroong employed herself in my tu- ple drawing, with remarkable skill, a rough outline of Frobisher Bay, Resolution Island, and other islands about it, and the north shore of Hudson's Strait. Too-loo-ka-ah also sketched the coast above and below Sekoselar. Every half minute he would punch me with a pencil I had given him, so that I might pay atten- tion to the Innuit names of places. As soon as he had sketched an island, bay, or capo, he would stop, and wait until I had cor- rectly written down the name. At first he was very loth to make the attempt at drawing a map, but the inducement I held out — some tohicco — succeeded, and, for the first time in his life, he put pencil to paper. His sketch was really good, and I have pre- served it, together with Tweroong's, to the present time. The whole of this day, August 2-ith, and the following day, were passed at the same encampment. All tlic Innuit men went out hunting, and killed an abundance of game, now valued not for food, of which there was plenty, but for the skins, of which there was very soon quite a large stock on hand. The women were employed in dressing these skins,* and in such other work as always fell to their lot. I was engaged in my observations and in making notes. The weather was delightful, and the scen- ery around fine. But as I am now writing of that period when I was able to determine the question as to a Frobisher " Strait" or Bay, I will copy my diary as written on the spot. ^^ August 2i)th, 1861,3 30 A.M. Another and another is added to the number of beautiful days we've had since starting on this expedition. Can it be that s' eh fine weather is here generally * The skins of tlie reindeer kHIcd in j I'piist nnd September are valued nlwve oth- ers, for thp reason that winter dresses can be made only of them. At the time men- tioned they arc covered with long, thick, and firmly-set hair. LAND OF TLENTY. 393 prevailing, -wlnle bad weather every whore else north is the rul- ing characteristic ? " This certainly is a fact, that here, at the head of Frobishcr Bay, a milder climate prevails than at I'ield Bay and elsewhercf or the luxuriant vegetation that is around here could not be. The grass plain, the grass-clothed hills, are abundant proof of this. I never saw in the States, unless the exception be of the prairies of the West, more luxuriant grasses on uncultivated lands than are here around, under me. There is no mistake in this statement, that pasture-land here, fo.- stock, can not be excelled by any any .where, unless it be cult' vated, or found, as already ex- cepted, in tlie great West.* "How is it with the land animals here? They are fot — 'fat as butter.' The paunch of the reindeer killed by Koojcssc was filled to its utmost capacity with grasses, mosses, and leaves of the various plants that abound here. The animal was very fat, his rump lined with tood-noo (reindeer tallow), which goes much bet- tor with me than butter. Superior indeed is it, as sweet, golden butter is to lard. The venison is very tender, almost falling to pieces as you attempt to lift a steak by its edge. So it is with all the tuktoo that have as yet been killed hero. Rabbits are in fine condition. Not only are they so now, but they must be nearly in as good order here in winter, for God hath given them the means to make their way through the garb of white, with which lie clothes the earth here, for their subsistence. " Koodloo returned this morning with the skins and toodnoo of three reindeer, which he has killed since his leaving the boat on Friday noon. In all, our party of hunters have killed eleven reindeer, but very little of the venison has been saved— simply the skins and toodnoo. * * * This afternoon the wife of Jack has been ankooting sick Tweroong. The sun -set to-night fine. I never saw more beautiful days and nights than here — the sky with all the mellow tints that a poet could conceive. The moon and aurora now make the nights glorious. ^^ Monday, August 26th. This morning not a cloud to be seen. Puto visited me, the kodluna infant at her back. I made her * To a person goinR to the arctic repions diiv nt from the pasture-lnnd of the Mid- dle Stiites, tliis ])nssnKe of my diary would naturally seem too strong ; but* when one has been for a year continunliy among ice, snow, and rugged rocks, as was the case with mo, the sight of a grassy plain and grecn-clud hills could hardly fail to startle him into enthusiastic expression. 394 ^ARCTIC RESEAUCH EXl'EDITION. some littlo presents — pipe, beads, file, and knife, and a small piece of one of the adjuncts of civilization — soap. Somehow I thought it i^ossible tliat 1 had made an error of one day in keeping run of ■the days of the month, but the lunar and solar distances of yester- day have satisfied mo that I was correct. I started on a w.alk up the hills. I came to an Iimuit monument, and many relics of former inhabitants — three earth excavations, made when the In- nuits built their houses in the ground. I now see a company of eight wolves across the river, howling and running around the rotks — howling just like the lunuit dogs. Now beside a noble river. Its waters are pure as crystal. From this river I have taken a draught on eating by its banks American, cheese and American bread. Tho American Hag Hoats Jlainttuif/Ii/ over it as the music of its waters seems to be 'Yankee Doodle.' I see not why this river should not have an American name. Its wa- tei-s are an emblem of purity. I know of no fitter name to bestow upon it than that of the daughter of my generous, esteemed friend, Henry Grinncll. I therefore, with the fiag of my country in one hand, my other in the limpid stream, denominate it 'Sylvia Grin- ncll Eiver.' "For the first half mile from the sea proper it runs quietly. The next quarter of a mile it falls perhajis fifteen feet, running violently over rocks. The next mile up it is on a level ; then come falls again of ten feet in one fifth of a mile ; and thence (uj) again) its course is meandering through low level land. From the appearance of its banks, there arc times when the stream is five times the size of the present. Probably in July this annu- ally occurs. The banks are of boulders the first two miles up ; thence, in some cases, boulders and grass. Two miles up from where it enters the sea, on the east side, is the neck of a plain, which grows wider and wider as it extends back. It looks from the point where I am as if it were of scores and scores of acres. Thence, on the cast side, as fiir as I can see, there is a ridge of mountains. On the west side of the river, a plain of a quarter to half a mile wide. This is a great salmon river, and .so known in this country among the Innuits. At our encampment I jiicked up the vertebra? of a salmon, the same measuring twenty-one inches, and a pi' ■ of the tail gone at that. "On returning from my ramble this afternoon up Sylvia Grin- ncll River, saw the wolves again on the other side. They have been howling and barking — Innuit dog-like — all day. I hear HOT SUN.— BLUEBERRIES. 395 them now filling the air with their noise, making a pandemonium of this beautiful place. I now await the return of Koojosse, Kooperneung, and Koodloo, when I hope to have them accom- pany me with the boat into every bay and to every island in these head-waters of the heretofore called 'Frobisher Strait.' " The hunting-party has not yet returned ; possibly it may con- tiftue absent a week. When these Innuits go out in this way they make no preparations, carry no tupic or extra clothing with them. The nights now are indeed cold ; near and at the middle of the day, and for four hours after, the sun is hot. This after- noon I started with my coat on, but, getting to the top of the hill, I took it off and left it. ^^ August 21th. A splendid sun and a calm air this da3^ To- morrow I hope to be off, even if Koojcssc and party are not back, looking here and there, ifcid taking notes of the country ; I can man a boat with the Innuit ladies here if I can do no better. Puto came in with her infant on her back, and in her hand a dish of luscious berries that she had picked this afternoon, presenting the .same to me. Of course I gave her some needles and a plug of tobacco in return. The berries are of various kinds, among which are blueberries — called by the Innuits Ki-o-tung-nung — and pomig- nung, a small round black berry that has the appearance, but not the taste of the blueberry. "This evening, while in the tupic doing up my writing for the day, I was visited by several of the Innuits, among whom was Suzhi and Ninguarping, both well acquainted with this part of tiie country. I tried to get the former, when she first called, to sketch me Kingaito side of Frobisher Bay, as Veil as the coast about here ; but she, having never used the pencil, felt reluctant to attempt its use; so she called loudly for Ninguarping, who soon came running with all haste to answer to her call. She told him what I wanted, and that he must assist lier. I gave him pa- per and pencil, and he proceeded, giving me very good ideas of the Kingaite side. "The night is glorious! The sun left the sky in- crimson, pur- ple, and all the varied shades that go to make up one of God's beautiful pictures in these regions. The moon now walks up the starry course in majesty and beauty, and the aurora dances in the southern sky. " Wednesday^ August 28s^'!^^^^m:^^^^^rm'mp" ;A^«''.i.VW ONE OF FBOUIBUEB'8 UOLl) MINKH, UALLEU IIY THU NATIVES B1I11>'H TUENCll. On the top of the island I found the ruins of a house, which had been built of stone, cemented together with lime and sand. The foundation still remained, and was of " lyme and stone." It was about twelve fcct in diameter, and every portion of it was cover- ed with aged moss. From appearances, some of the stones had been turned over, as if done by Innuits seeking treasure. A few feet east of this house was a sort of stone breastwork, 428 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. such as the natives erect for shelter when hunting, and also a pile of stones, which might have been made, as I thought, by Fro- bisher's men, to cover some memorial left by them when trying to escape in their ship. Much of the island was covered with shingle, and this, on the north side, was so compact, and of sucR even surface, that it re- minded me of the small cobble-stone pavements in cities. I collected as many relics from these ruins as we could possi- bly carry, and, with Koojesse, returned to the boat. On our way he said to me, " The men who built the ship, and started with it, all died — died luith the cold" I asked him how he knew this ; and he replied that " all the old Innuits said so." This agreed precisely with what old Ookijoxy Ninoo told me the previous winter in the oral history she then communicated to me, and I felt convinced that all the evidences before me could refer to no other than Frobisher's expedition, and the men left be- hind by that explon^r. She said that the five men built a ship, and found so much ice that they could not proceed, and finally all froze to death. This island is generally called "AocZ-?(i-?iani," because white men lived on it, and built stone houses, and also a ship. The ship was built for the object of escaping from this region. In the previ- ous winter, while passing on our way from the ship to Oopung- newing — an island three miles southwest I'rom Kodlunarn — Koo- jesse had pointed out this latter island, and said that white men once built a ship there. I gave little heed to his statement at the time, because I knew that to build a ship such materials were re- quired as the regions thereabout were quite destitute of. But when I heard the history of Ookijoxy Ninoo, I saw at once the probability there was that Koojesse was right. From what I saw that day, I was fully convinced that many, very many years ago, men of civilization did live upon the island called by the Innuits Kodlu7iarn, and that they did build a vessel — probably a schooner — there. The evidence was contained in the following objects which 1 saw around me, viz. : Coal; flint-stone; fragments of tile, glass, and pottery ; an exca- vation which I have called an abandoned mine ; a trench by the shore on an inclined plane, such as is used in building a ship on A RELIC OF THREE CENTURIES. 429 tbe stocks ; the ruins of three stone houses, one of which was twelve feet in diameter, with palpable evidence of its having been erected on a foundation of stone cemented together with lime and sand ; and some chips of wood which I found on digging at the base of the ship's trench. Upon this evidence, then — coupled with Esquimaux tradition, as given to me by several persons apart from each other, and at different times — I founded my opinions respecting Frobisher's ex- pedition, as I have already stated them. It was night before we left the island, darkness alone ending the search. We had to row back, the native crew pulling cheer- fully as we bounded along. The lights of the tupics on Nioun- telik were my beacon ahead, and above were the glorious stars in all their beauty, while the silvery moon was rising from behind the mountains of Tikkoon. The time seemed long since all had appeared so fair to me as then ; and when we arrived at the tents, I went to my rest truly thankful at having been permitted to ac- complish what 1 had that day been enabled to do. The following morning, September 23d, I continued my re- searches in this interesting sound, leaving Kiountelik at 8 A.M. There was a strong head wind, but my crew were good at the oars, and away we went merrily toward the main land beyond Kodlunarn. As we passod across the bay, my heart was greatly elated at the thought of what I was then accomplishing. A glance at the red, white, a.id blue cheered me onward in the work of ripping up the mysteries of three centuries. That symbol was m}"- constant, cheering, helping companion night and day. In about an liour we arrived at the cape of land called Tikkoon, and, upon landing, I proceeded to a small plain about a quarter of a mile from the cape. The Innuits went on before me, I hav- ing my compass and tripod in hand to take bearings. All at once — to quote from my diary — "My attention was drawn to the extreme of the plain, facing Kodlunarn, by the beach, where I saw Koo-ter-e-nier (IMiner) call- ing by shouts to the other Innuits and myself, holding up his arms and hands. The Innuits started on a run, and so did I, for I was sure something of interest had been found. Arriving at the spot, what was before me? A relic of three centuries! Iron — time-eaten, with ragged teeth ! " This iron, weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds, was on the top of a granite rock, just within reach of high tide at full and 430 ARCTIC KESEAliCII EXPEDITION. change of moon. The iron stain from this specimen was in the rock ; otherwise its top was cleanly washed. "This was just what I wanted to find — some of the heavy .stone which the venerable Innuit woman, Ookijoxy Ninoo, had told me about the previous winter. Of course my heart was a happy one in finding this iron, brought here only eighty-six years after the discovery of America by Columbus. "The Innuit circles of stones at Tikkoon, indicating this to be a place for the summer residences of the Innuits, were very nu- merous. I know not where I have seen more numerous signs of Innuits than on the plain a little distant from the cape. I'Jetwecii the plain and the extremity of the cape the usual rough old rocks are the nature of the land. The north side is flanked by high, bold mountains, a bay extending back for a mile or so on the west side. On the east side extends the ba}^, one branch of whieli leads toward Field Bay. Tiie j)lain extends across the cajic from one bay to the other, the distance being less than one eighth of a mile. The " heavy stone" was found at the coast edge fac- ing h'odhtnarn, which island is about half a mile off. Bones of ducks, tuktoo, walrus, and whale were numerous all around. Some were very old, being nearly overgrown with grass antl moss. I doubt not, two or three centuries old were some of these remains." . On leavii'.g Tikkoon tbe wind was strong from the northeast, and it soon increased to a gale. Kooterenier (Miner) was my boat-steerer, and well he performed his task in passing several dangerous places where heavy gusts came rushing down the ra- vines or over the abrupt mountains. Our boat shipped much water, the mad waves frequently' Hying over us. Once a .sharj) gust caught us while under sail, and instantly sent the boat on- ward toward a dangerous reef of rocks on our lee. In a moment sail was down, oars out, and all hands pulling strong and rajiidly to clear the danger. Fortunately, a few metnents of hard work carried us free, and we soon after reached Cape Oud-ho-onj and landed. Here I took a few compass bearings, and walked about to ex- amine the spot. ^lany relics of Innuits were seen here. After remaining there an hour we again started, and proceeded uj) Vic- toria Bay, keeping well inshore for smoother water. The scenery was magnificent. Stupendous cliffs rose up almost perpendicular from the water's edge, and mountains towered high above me, the A MOUNTAIN CAVE. 431 IIOAT IN A STOKM. sides of some crumbling as if from age and the work of winter's free?;ing power. One precipitous mountain, about half way up the bay, had the whole side of it torn from summit to base, and cast down. As we approached this mountain my eye caught sight of a cave. Handed to examine it, and the moment I set foot on shore I was struck with amazement at the huge rocks, high up and overhang- ing my head, seemingly ready to totter and foil. The cave was one of those made by the action of ice iu winter and the sea and sun in summer. The ice had rent the rocks and fastened upon tlicm; the sun, with its heat, and the wind, with its power, then went to work, tearing up the frozen masses of ice, and forcing out the rocks, thus leaving the mountain partly disemboweled, as I 432 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. found it. By measurement, the cave was fifty feet long, by a width of ten feet, and a height of fifteen to twenty feet at the entrance. The strata of rocks were perpendicular. The sides, however, were not as rough and jagged as were the roof and base. Icicles, long, numerous, and large, hung from the top, giving an air of enchant- ment to the scene. xteturning to the boat, we resumed our hard labor at the oars, the wind being right ahead. We had not proceeded far before Koojesse sighted a seal floating a little distance off on our right. Tie instantly prepared for a .shot, and stood up in the bow of the boat ready to fire. In another moment, and within twenty-five feet of the seal, crack went the rifle. A floundering commenced, the boat was in an instant alongside of the prey, and Koojesse laid hold of his prize with both hands, the other Innuits imme- diately aiding him. I shall not soon foj'get that scene. A lino was thrown around the seal's flippers, but the animal was still alive, and struggled so much that all the power we had could hardly get it into the boat. As it was drawn up, the dying seal glanced around and upon ns with its plaintive eyes, and its inno- cent-looking face seemed to plead for mercy, as though it were human. I actually felt a shudder creeping over me as it looked at us ; but, on the instant, a knife in the hands of Kooperneung was buried deep in it. Another struggle, and the poor seal lay dead. Koojesse told me that occasionally, on a windy day, .seals will thus float upon the surface of the water for the sake cf hav- ing the wind blow on their backs. A little later we landed at Ek-ke-le-zhun, a point of interest and importance to me. This place is a tongue of land which juts out nearly half across the bay, and serves to form above it one of the safest and finest harbors I ever saw. The scenery around is grand and impressive, and I saw enough to convince mc that it is a most desirable spot for a vessel to anchor in. While the Innuits were feasting on the seal I took a walk upon the shore. All the land above high-water mark was covered with snow ; but, looking attentively on the ground, to my delight I dis- covered a small, thin lamina of coal. On the day we left Oopung- newing (August 13th), on our voyage up Frobisher Bay, Koojesse told me that he knew of a place not far off, up a bay, where there was a great deal more of the coal such as I Iiad found at Nioun- telik. My experience, now narrated, shows both that Koojesse was honest in his statement, and also — which is a point of great ANOTHER COAL DEPOSITE. 433 importance — that the Esquimaux traditionary history, extending back for centuries, is wonderfully accurate. Imbedded in the rocks I also found some heavy black sub- stances, larger and more numerous than any I had before seen. These I concluded might be the " stone like to sea-coal" described by Frobisher in the account of his voyages. I secured some spec- imens, which I brought home with me. But I was not content with the hasty examination thus made. After returning to the boat and lunching on raw seal, I renewed my search, in company with Koojesse and Kooperneung. Soon, by digging under the snow, coal was found in considerable quan- tities, and also a little pile of flint-stones similar to those discov- ered in the coal at Niountelik, and in the cement of the stone- house ruins at Kodlunarn, My feelings were so buoyant and excited at this discovery, and the proof it furnished to my mind that Frobisher had been there, that I could hardly contain myself But my excitement was con- siderably increased when Miner, from the top of the highest part of the tongue of land, raised a shout and said he had found more. We rushed toward him, and lo ! more and more was indeed found. There was a large space clear of snow, and covered with coal to the amount, I thought, of some five tons. I was perfectly as- tounded. But I could not lose time. I therefore at once com- menced an inspection of the heap, and soon found a large chip im- bedded in the coal. This chip, my companion declared, was nev- er the work of an Innuit knife. It had the appearance of having been chopped out of a large piece of oak timber with an axe. I dug down fifteen inches into the coal before coming to any earth. The Innuits willingly assisted me, and, as at Niountelik and Kod- lunarn, every thing they found was apparently passed to me. I discovered, however, that they pocketed some of the best speci- mens of the flint-stones, and I had eventually to resort to diplo- macy in order to recover them. Leaving the main pile, I dug in other places through the snow, and found coal extending over a wide area. There could be no doubt that a large deposit was made here, and I could arrive at no other conclusion — from the evidences of the age of the coal, in the mosses and otlier signs upon it — than that this was done by Frobisher. I filled a keg with specimens of the coal, the moss, and the lichens, to bring home, and just as I then packed it, so it Ee 484 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. appeared when opened in the presence of many persons here aft- er my return. Night was now fast approaching, and I could stay no longer. The Innuits had descended to the boat before I could tear my- self away from the interesting spot ; and long after we left, and while we were running rapidly out of the bay under a favoring breeze, did I keep my gaze fixed and my thoughts centred upon it. Our course back was directly across Countess of Warwick's Sound to Niountelik. The wind was strong and in our favor, so that we made rapid progress, and in good time reached the island. But the surf was too high for landing on the weather-side. Ac- cordingly, we went round into the same bight where I landed on the memorable day of my first discovering the coal here. It was dark when we arrived, and there was much difficulty in getting every thing up the abrupt bank flanking the place of land- ing. My own labor was severe, especially in my then weak state. Many were the struggles I made to carry up safely the chronom- eter and other important articles. Two hours were occupied in doing this, and in getting up the boat above high water ; but at length all was accomplished, and we arrived at the tupics at a late hour, wearied beyond measure with our exertions. This time no hot coffee or tea awaited me, as heretofore, when Suzhi attended to the matter. My supper was ice-water and mo- lasses, with bread soaked in it, and some dried venison — a poor diet to a cold and enfeebled system. AJSOTUEU COAL UEPOSITE. 486 CHAPTER XXVII. A Storm. — Detained at Niountelik. — Examine the Island. — Another Deposit of Coal found. — Specimens collected. — Revisit Kodlunarn. — Minute InsiMction. — More Itelics found^f Frobisher's Expedition. — A large Piece of Iron. — The "Ship's Trench. "-depart on return to Ship. — Twenty-sixth Encampment. — Revisit the Whaling De'pot. — Passage through Bear Sound. — 'ISventy-sevcnth and last Encampment by Lupton Channel. — Innuit Deposits of Food. — Good Faith and Honesty of the Natives toward each other. — Avoidance of the "Dreaded Land." — Last Day's Journey. — Arrive near Parker's Bay. — Anxiety anil Excite- ment as to the Ship. — Gain Sight of her. — Arrival on Board. — All well! Ox Tuesday, September 24th, 1861, a snow-storm from the northeast was upon us. This delighted me, for it made a stay of another day necessary, impatient as the Innuits were to get back to the ship. After breakfast, enveloped in my cloak, I saun- tered out, determining to give Niountelik a good look. I first proceeded through snow and furious wind to the opposite side of the island, but found nothing worthy of note in my walk there. On my way back, however, by the beach east of the tuples, I found several pieces of coal in the sand, and up a gully much more, with some flint-stone. A little farther on I suddenly encountered an- other deposit of coal. No. 2 of Niountelik, on the bank, by a cove with a sandy beach, a short distance cast of where I had found the first deposit some months before. At this moment the Innuits came round with the boats, and landed in the cove ; and the idea immediately struck me that this was the identical landing-place of Frobisher in 1578 1 The coal- bed was within thirty feet of high-water mark. Its depth, in the thickest part, was six inches. It was nearly overgrown with grasses, shrubs, and mosses ; and some of it was washed down into the sand and shingle of the beach. The flint-stones were numerous, and of the same character as in the two other lots found. Having made a very thorough examination here, I looked else- where over the island. Relics of Innuits were in all directions, but especially on the eastern slope ; and some small pieces of drift-wood, overgrown with grass, were met with and secured. After going to the camp for a seal-spear, I succeeded — by dint 486 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. of great exertipn and perseverance, digging through the frozen ground — in obtaining several good specimens of the coal inter- locked with moss, grass, and shrubs. The weather was not propitious on the morning of September 25th, but the Innuits were anxious to get away, and I had to sub- mit. While the boat was being prepared, I went to the highest part of the island and took some bearings by compass, and carried with me, on my return to the boat, more coal and other relics to take home. Miner and his crew were not ready, owing to some of their dogs being missing; but I hurried ofF»hoping to induce my companions to stop once more at Kodlunarn on the way. This I was fortunately able to do. I concluded an arrange- ment w.ith them to stay there for a short time, for which favor 1 had to give to Koojessc five boxes of percussion caps, Koodloo two, and Charley two. I could not leave this locality without, if possible, making another examination of the "White Man's Isl- and." Moreovei", I wanted additional relics from the stone house; and, also, to take some measurements and bearings. According- ly, after leaving Niountclik, our course was taken direct to Kod- lunarn Island, where we landed at the same place as before, and I at once began to examine this interesting locality. I made a very close and minute inspection, taking measurements of dis- tances, .so as to be quite sure of the data from which my deduc- tions could be drawn. Kough outline sketches were also made on the spot, and every thing was done to insure correctness in my notes and observations. The plan of the island, which is incor- porated in the chart accompanying this volume, will better serve to convey the general facts to the reader than the most labored description with the pen. The result of this, my second examination of Kodlunarn, brought to light new facts in connection with the past. A piece of iron, semi-spherical in shape, weighing twenty pounds, was dis- covered under the stone that had been excavated for the " ship's way," and many other small pieces were "also found at the head of the trench. Fragments of tile were found all over the island, and numerous other relies, indicating that civilized men had visit- ed the place very many years ago. The large piece of iron was found in the following manner: Koojesse and I had been examining the "ship's trench" to sec how high up in it the tide at full and change rose, and then, leav- ing him to search for relics, I ascended the eastern bank, and walk- FUOBISIIER IRON. 487 ed along it to the bluff facing the sea. As I looked down to tlie base of the tongue on which I stood, I saw, wedged in between two rocks, what appeared to be a stick of timber, about two feet long and six inches square, very old in appearance. I called to Koojesse, and directed him to examine it, as, from where I stood, it was some twenty-five feet perpendicular to the bottom ; he hast- ened down and around, and, on arriving at the supposed relic of wood, said it was a stone. I was surprised and disappointed, and then proceeded with my occupation of pacing off the trench. In lialf a minute I heard Koojesse shout '■'• Shev-cye-un T (iron.) I turned round, and sa\y that he had boldly mounted the steep bank beneath me, using the sharp rocks as stepping-stones, and had his hand resting on a piece of rusty iron just protruding from the debris of stone that' had been dug out of the trench, and thrown up, making a bank. Koojesse continued shouting " Iron ! big iron ! Can't stir him !" I was soon on the spot, though at considerable risk, and trying to disengage the iron, but I could not move it. After digging around it, however, a few strong ONE OK FRoiiisuEii'H ooLD "rBOOKB." pUllS StartCCl it. i UG TUSt OI (Auirouroiicofi578.) three ccuturics had firmly ce- mented it to the sand and stones in which it had lain. This piece of ironi? was of the same character as that found at Tikkoon, less than one mile from Kodlunarn, and also as that ob- tained on "Look-out" Island, Field Bay ; and the origin of it, as well as its significance, may be gathered from the following facts : Of the one hundred men sent out from England with Frobishei" in 1578, the majority were " miners," sent for the express purpose of digging for the rich ore of which Frobisher had carried speci- mens home on his return from his second voyage, and which was supposed to be very valuable. The miners made "proofs," as they arc called, in various parts of the regions discovered by him. Some of these "proofs" are doubtless what I found, and they fur- nish clear evidence, in connection with other circumstances noted in the course of this narrative, that I was, when at Kodlunarn, on the precise spot of Frobisher's " Countess of Warwick's Mine." * The same, together with a case of some of the other Frobisher relics which I discovered and broui;ht home, I sent to the British government early in the year 1863, through the Koyal Geographical Society of London. 488 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Delighted with my discoveries, and gathering up as many relics as I could carry, placing them in ray old stockings, mittens, hat, VBOBIBnKB BEL108 IN MY OU> STOOKINOB. and every thing that would hold them securely, I labeled each article, and rejoined the boat, immediately afterward departing on our way for "home." That the reader may know the feelings with which I left this portion of my work, I here make a brief ex- tract from my diary, hastily written on the spot : " As I had my hand upon the iron relic after having unearth- ed it and seen what it was, like a flash the whole of the circum- stances flew across my mind — my determination before starting to induce my native crew to stop with mo at Kodlunarn ; the propo- sal while making the transit from Niountelik to Kodlunarn ; their willing acceptance ; the search, and finding of interesting rdics ; my calling to Koojesse ; his response ; his descending to look at what I thought to be wood ; its proving to be a stone ; Koojesse's mounting by an unexpected and venturesome way, thus finding the iron relic where it had lain undisturbed for three centuries ; God blessing me in making me the instrument in determining the exact facts of what has remained a mystery to the civilized world for so long. Now it will be known throughout all the en- lightened nations of the earth where Frobisher did attempt to es- tablish the colony which Queen Elizabeth sent here in 1578." That night we reached the termination of the high land below Sharko, and encamped* till the next morning. O^ir passage on September 26th was made with some difficulty, owing to the heavy sea that prevailed. A moderate gale, or even ♦ Our twenty-sixth encampment was in lat. G2° 38' N., long. 05° 02' W. INNUIT HONESTY. 439 ft fresh breeze from certain directions, causes a dangerous sea for boats running between Countess of Warwick's Sound and Bear Sound, a fact we proved by personal experience. On arriving at the oUl whaling dcp6t, Cape True, I landed and went to Flagstaff Ilill. There was still enough renlaining to show where the ship's company had lived so long : the tattered remnants of a flag, some boards, a dismantled table, an old cooking-stove, with broken- down walls around it, oil-casks covered with sods, some rope and ice-gear, with the usual indications of Innuit tent life, met my view ; but it was solitary as compared with the life and anima- tion displayed when I was there only a few months before. Slow- ly I turned my steps away from this place, where I had spent so many happy hours ; and I could not help saying to myself, " Shall I ever again behold it? God only knows 1" We stopped at Capo True nearly an hour, and then pursued our way through Bear Sound. On arriving at the next place of encampment, the last before reaching the harbor where I had left the ship, the Innuits informed me that it was called Shar-toe-wik- toe, from a natural breakwater of thin or plate stone, the native word meaning " thin flat stone." It is on a tongue of land near- ly surrounded by water, on the west side of Lupton Channel, within a mile of Field Bay, and has a beautiful little boat-harbor. A few moments after landing, some of the Innuits found the re- mains of recent encampments of their people. On examination, we discovered that several tuples had been there, and it was con- cluded that Arlliawa, Artarkparu, and other families had made this their resting-place on the way from where we hud met them up Frobisher Bay to Field Bay. At this place I found some de- posits of seal and walrus, evidently freshly made by the party preceding us ; and hero I noticed an instance of honesty an^ good faith which deserves mention : These deposits were beneath piles of stone, with a stick run- ning up obliquely from each, so that if the ground should be cov- ered with snow, the place might be easily found. The Innuits with mo noticed all this, and saw the meat thus deposited, yet not one would touch a morsel of it. They knew it belonged to others, and therefore it was sacred in their eyes, unless in case of actual extremity. From the present ^7th and last) encampment our first one on the outward trip was not far distant — about a mile off — and on the opposite side of the channel was Lok's Land, the " dreaded land." 440 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. I made some inquiries about it, but not one of my companions could give me any information, though onl}' about a mile distant. They never had been there, and, as they said, " never would." On the morning of Friday, September 27th, I mentally arranged a plan for getting from my Innuits all the flint-stone relics they had pocketed when making my researches in the coal deposits found at Niountelik and up Victoria Bay. I began my opera- tions by feasting all my crew. I got Koojesse to make an abun- dant soup of pemmican and meat-biscuit for them all. After they had eaten this I gave to each a dish of hot coffee and hands full of sea-biscuit. I was particularly conversational and cheerful with all ; carried hot coffee and bread to " Miner" and his wife, and gave bread also to such others of his company as I knew to possess the relics I sought. Then I told Koojesse that, if he had any of the " flint-stones," I would give him some boxes of percus- sion caps when I got to the vessel if he would give them all to rae. I told him, moreover, that I wanted him to assist me in in- ducing all the others to do the same, promising on my part to give Kooperneung and Koodloo the same reward I offered him, and to give to the nulianas of himself and Ivcoperneung, and to Suzhi, beads for all they had. My strategy worked like a charm ; the relics tame in by scores, each bringing me a quantity that surprised me, for I had not thought my company so largely de- ceitful. When I had obtained from my immediate crew all they held, I took Koojesse with me to " Miner's" company, and made an important addition to my stock there. Thdflnnuits had se- creted these flint-stones for their own use in "striking fire." We soon after started on our way, and made good progress up Field Bay, arriving near Parker's Bay toward evening. There ■^ heard the report of fire-arms from the shore, and saw tupics near the beach. My party immediately responded, and desired that we should land ; but as we were now only about seven miles from the spot where I expected to find the ship, I refused permis- sion. The usual opposition and sulky demeanor then followed. The men would not work, and the women, though willing, had to do as their masters told them. Night was approaching, and the cold was becoming severe ; still, I felt it would be much better to go on and ascertain if the ship were really there than to en- camp for another night. Accordingly, I tried every argument and persuasion to induce Koojesse and the others to persevere, finally succeeding after much sulkincss on their part. ARRIVAL ON BOARD. 441 And now I was full of excitement as we neared the place where we expected to find the ship ; but darkness came over us before we got across the bay, and I became very anxious for our safety among the dhoals, of which there were many about. Hap- pily we escaped serious peril, and on reaching the point of land to be rouniied before entering the harbor, danger was lost in the gen- eral excitement. We looked eagerly and often for a sight of the ship. Presently a dark mass loomed up before us. A few more strokes of the oars, and all doubt was removed. The George Hen- ry was in sight ! As soon as the vessel was seen, my Innuit crew, unable to re- press their joy, fired their guns and sent forth loud shouts and cheers, in which I could not help joining, overjoyed to find the ship not yet departed. The watch on deck was at first in doubt what to make of the noise, but a second thought told him that I had returned with my party, and, giving a shout in reply, he rushed to inform Captain B of our approach. In a few minutes more I was alongside, and saw the captain, with all bauds, ready to greet me. Quickly I ascended the ship's side, and was receiving the captain's warm grasp and the hearty welcome of all around me. I found that every one on board and most of the Inuuits around had given us up, concluding that we were lost. It was supposed that our boat could never stand the trip for so long a time, so that when we returned in safety it was aluiost as if the dead had come to life. A hot supper was at once prepared for the whole party of us, and, meanwhile, numerous questions and answers passed. My first question 'was, " How many v/hales secured?" and I was surprised to receive the reply, " Not one." Until near midnight Captain B and myself prolonged our talk in the little after-cabin, and then, when I did retire, it was impossible to sleep, owing to the great change from the free, cool air of the tuples to that of the stove-heated ship. Fifty days and forty-nine nights I had been without any fire to warm me save that which burns within the human system. For many days be- fore getting back to the ship the mountain streams had been fast bound in chains of ice, yet, as a general rule, and excepting the time during my recent sickness, I had always slept wel^ Now, however, I could not sleep, and was restless and disturbed through the whole night. 442 AliCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. CHAPTER XXVIII. Visit the friendly Natives. — Ebierbing and Tookoolito. — A Surprise. — Birth of a Son. — Artni'kparu's Information. — More concerning Frobisher's Expedition. — A great Number of Innuits around the Ship. — They all concur in the traditionary History given to me. — Author's Anxiety to renew his Discoveries. — Another Boat- trip. — Cross the Bay to Chapell Inlet. — Camp for the Night. — Continue the Voy- age. — Bad Weather. — Heavy Gale. — Encamp once more. — Visit an Innuit Depot of Food. — A severe Hurricane. — Boat-voyage abandoned. — Return to the Ship.— Capture of two Whales. — A Man dangerously hurt by a Whale. On the following morning, Saturday, September 28th, 1861, at an early hour, I was on deck, finding every one astir, getting ready for the customary cruise after whales. The ship's company gen- erally started at daybreak to try their luck, and they were sadly disappointed with the result hitherto. On inquiry, I found that some of my Innuit friends were still in the neighborhood, and, after breakfast, I went on shore to visit them. I may here state • that, OH' my return, I found the vessel at the same anchorage — in George Henry's Harbor* — as it was when I left it on August 9th. The first call I wished to make was at Ebierbing's tupic, which was pointed out to me at no great distance. I entered without "ringing," and found "Jennie" — Kood^oo's wife — there to wel- come me, as she did with unmistakable pleasure. On inquiring for Tookoolito and Ebierbing — whom I considered almost as adopted chi dren — I found that I had entered the wrong tent, Ebierbing's tupic being next door, and thither I soon made my way. As I entered the tupic of Ebierbing I caught a mere glimpse of a woman's face, which I had hardly time to recognize as be- longing to Tookoolito. She gave me one look, and then the face I beheld was buried in hands trembling with excitement. It was, indeed, Tookoolito, overwhelmed with tears on seeing me again. The tears sprang to my eyes also as I saw this evidence of stronji attachn:)ent. It was some time before the silence of the tupic wa.s * Thus named after the barque Georrje Henry. This harbor is in lat. (52° fi.T N.. long. G4° 48' 15" W., and is at the south extreme of the longest island of Field Bay, not fur from the t#niination of said bay. TOOKOOLITO. 443 broken by voices. She and ber busband, in common with all the other Innuits and white men, had never expected to see me again. She had often ascended a hill, near by and overlooking the bay, to search the horizon for my returning boat, but had a^ often come down disappointed. In the midst of our talk I was startled by the plaintive cry of an infant, and, turning back a corner of the ample tuktoo furs with which Tookoolito was wrapped, I found a boy only twenty- four days of age, her only child I Tookoolito told me she had been very ill, and had nearly died during her confinement. I was about to leave the tupic, having spent a very pleasant hour with my friend, when she drew toward her a bag, from which she took two pair of nether garments — kod-lings — which she had made for me before her sickness. One pair was made of Jcus-se-cjear (black sealskin andfur), a beautiful mottled material ; the other pair was of the common seal, made in the Innuit fashion, the former being made in the style of civ- ilization. She also gave me three specimens of her netting or crochet-work, made especially for me to take home to America. They were table-mats, and beautiful specimens of a skillful hand. But I had not yet reached the depths of her generosity ; she next presented to me a pair of sealskir. socks, and a pair of meituk socks (made of the skins of eider ducks with the feathers on), saying, at the same time, that she had the material at hand, and would soon have ready for me a pair of winter boots — kumings. I told her she was doing too much for me. "Nay, nay," was her response, " I can not do half so much as I ought for one who has been so kind to us." As I was leaving the tupic she said, "1 was so glad when I heard last night that you had got back in safety that I could not sleep ; I lay thinking of it all the night. I feel very happy now. My luinga thought you lost too ; and now he also is happy." In the afternoon old Artarkparu visited me. He had arrived, with his company, from up Frobisher Bay a little before my re- turn, and I now gladly conversed with him, ihrough Koojesse as interpreter, about the pieces of iron I bad obtained at Tikkoou and Kodlunarn. I asked him if he had ever seen them before, and he replied, " No, not those, hut one much larger^ Ho then made a circular motion witb his hand over and around the piece of iron I had placed on the table,. and, according to this, that which he had seen must have been five times as large. lie add- 444 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. ed to his remark that a very strong Innuit could just lift it, and there were very few who were able to do so. This piece of metal was, as he explained, on the southwest side of Oopungnewing Isl- and, just above high-water mark. He had seen it six years be- fore, but not since. The metal was "soft" and "smooth," not " hard" like the pieces I bad before me. Ebierbing, visiting me that day in our little after-cabin, was conversing with me, and speaking of his sickness and recovery — of the critical state in which his nuliana lay for several days suc- ceeding the birth of their child — of the loss of his very valuable seal and sledge dog "Smile," and another of his dogs. He said farther, " We thankful that still live and able to work. Lose our dogs; sick and unable to go tuktooing; no tuktoo skins for win- ter ; never mind ; we alive and together ; got fine boy, and are happy." I thought this was indeed akin to Christian philosophy, deserving respect and admiration. Annawa and his wife Nood-loo-yong visited me on the morning of September 30th, and I showed them the relics I had obtained. They at once recognized them as coming from the places I had examined. These people had spent most of their days round the waters of Frobisher Bay, and especially on the islands Oopungne- wing and Niountelik. The portion of brick which I had found the previous winter, when transferring my things from one sledge to the other, opposite Niountelik, was unknown to them in so large a form ; but they bad often seen smaller pieces, and also coal, in each of the places where I had discovered it. They had likewise found " heavy stone," such as I showed them at Kus-se- 'jear-ark-ju-a, a cape half a mile N.N.W. of Kodlunarn. I asked them where these things came from, and the reply was, " Kodlunas brought them." I immediately said, " Did you see those kodlunas?" Their answer, with eyes wide open and coun- tenances expressing surprise, was, '■^Ar-gi! ar-gir meaning No! no! "How, then," said I, "do you know that kodlunas brought them?" Their response was, "All the old Innuits said so. The first In- nuits who saw the white men were all dead, many, a great many years ago." The more I searched into this subject the more I found it to be well known, as a traditionaj:y fact, that white men — Icodlunas — once lived on the island then and since called by the Innuits Kod- BLIND GEORGE'S STORY. 445 lunarn ; that tbese men had built a ship there ; had launched it, and started away for their homes ; but that, before they got out of the bay, hands and feet were frozen, and finally the whole of them perished of cold. Ebierbing's statement to me was as fol- lows: EecoUects hearing his father tell of these white men, and how they built a ship. I'he kodlunas had brought brick, coal, and "heavy stone," and left them on Niountelik and at other places about there. His father did not see them, but i\ie first Innults, who saw them, told other Innuits so, and so it continued to his day. Old Innuits tell young Innuits ; and when they get to be old, they in turn tell it to the young. " When our baby boy," said he, " gets old enough, we tell him all about you, and about all those kodlunas who brought brick, iron, and coal to where you have been, and of the kodlunas who built a ship on Kodlunarn Island. When boy gets to be an old Innuit he tell it to other In- nuits, and so all Innuits will know what we now know." Thus, by the simple, unadorned statement of Ebierbing may be known how it is that oral history is preserved among the Innuit people of the North. On the day following this conversation, several old Innuits ar- rived from different places ; among them were Ugarng, with his two wives and child ; " Bob," his wife " Polly," and children ; "Johnny Bull" and Kokerzhun, and Blind George, with his dar- ling girl Kookooyer. Ugarng had left his mother,* old Ookijoxy Ninoo, at Cornelius Grinnell Bay, so that I was unable to obtain from her any additional information concerning the relics I had found; but the others all confirmed the story already given to me about the white men, and what they had left behind. The testimony of Blind George was particularly interesting, from the circumstances under which he gave it. Being unable to see, he by signs and motions mapped out the position of various places in Countess of Warwick's Sound, where these things had been noticed by him before losing his sight. Placing his hand on his own person, he said, " Oopungnewing ;" then placing it on a corner of a sea-chest in the main cabin, where we were, he contin- ued, " Niountelik ;" then pointing with his finger to a spot on the table, he said, " Tiver-piik-ju-a ;" to another, "Kodlunarn;" to an- other, " Tikkoon." Before he could place all to siitisfy him, he went back and repeated his steps frequently, at last accomplish- ing the geographical feat satisfiictorily to himself and quite to my 446 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. gratification. Ho also identified the specimen of "heavy stone" I placed in his lap by lifting it up and touching his lips to it ; he felt its indentations and roughness, weighed it in his hand, and said "all same" as he once saw at Kodlunarn. lie then, without any leading questions, described the trenches made by the white men ; and his testimony was confirmed by Tweroong, who also added that old Innuits said the ship was built from wood left on the island for an vjloo — a word applied not only to their own snow-houses, but to the dwellings of civilized men generally. The information thus obtained, though satistactory, still made me desirous for more ; and as at that time the number of Innuits in the neighborhood could not have been less than a hundred, I thought it an excell^'ut opportunity for procuring what I sought. Accordingly, I sent to some of their tuples, and getting Tookoo- lito to be my interpreter, asked a number of questions, the an- swers to which perfectly satisfied me with regard to the main facts concerning Frobisher's expedition and the fate of his men. The result of all the information thus obtained convinced me, however, of the necessity for another and longer examination of the locality possessing so much interest as regarded this subject. Therefore I again prepared for another trip, and on Monday, Oc- tober 7th, at 11 A.M., I once more started for the Countess of Warwick's Sound. My boat's crew consisted of Ebierbing, as boat-stecrcr and interpreter; "Suzhi," "John Bull," Kokcrzhun, Annawa, Ou-le-kier, and Shevikoo, thus having only one (Suzhi) of my previous party with me. As this trip, owing to the very severe, weather, was nearly a failure, I need only give such particulars of it as may prove generally interesting to the reader. The wind was strong when we started, and every dash of water upon our boat froze as it touched the side. Sometimes the gusts were so heavy that great care was needed lest we should be capsized ; but we managed to cross the bay and reach land on the other side without mishap. Here, for a time, we had better weather, but the wind soon became adverse, and when we got near to French Head it was deemed ad- visable to encamp for the night. We stopped at a bight, or indentation of the land, close to the place where we used to cross over to Chapell Inlet, and there, in searching for drift-wood, I came across a piece of my lost expedi- tion boat. The women attended to our encampment, consisting of two tents, one formed of my boat's covering, the other of boats' ROUGH WEATHER. 447 sails ;• five persons were in one and three in the other. Thus we passed the first night, and early next morning, October 8th, again started. The weather was very discouraging ; the wind was right against us, and occasionally it snowed heavily. A mile or so after leav- ing our encampment a perfect storm came upon us, and I saw that Ebierbing and the rest felt most unwilling to go on. Indeed, I myself now feared it would be impossible to prosecute our voy- age. The delay had been such that every day now brought the severity of winter fast upon us ; still, I determined to persevere as long as we could, feeling that if the ship departed soon for home I should have no opportunity for examining farther into the Fro- bisher expedition. The wind soon increased to a gale, bringing the snow furiously into our faces; the waves ran high, every crest leaping the boat's side, and almost bifrying it in the trough of the sea. Our condi- tion was becoming dangerous, and so thought my Innuit compan- ions, as they frequently glanced at me to learn my intentions. It was soon evident to me that all my hopes of getting forward were likely to be disappointed. The season was too far advanced for boat excursions ; snow-storms, cold and windy weather, met me each day. My companions, wiser than myself, plainly inti- mated that it would not do to persevere ; they would go on if I determined to do so, but they knew their own coasts, their native waters, and their seasons better than myself; and I felt that, much as I wished to accomplish another examination of the islands where relics could be obtained before the George Henry sailed, I should be unable to do so without running a risk that would be considered foolhardy. Our encampment that night was at a place where, as we soon perceived, some Innuits had lately rested. Traces of their abode and deposits of provision were found, and, upon inquiry, I dis- covered that one of my crew, Shevikoo, was of the party that had rested here. This explained why he so readily opened the depos- its, and took from the store of walrus and other meat what he wanted. The gale now increased almost to a hurricane. I had encoun- tered nothing so severe since the memorable one of the past year when my boat was destroyed and the Rescue wrecked. We could only with the greatest difficulty keep our tents from blowing away; we frequently had to secure them afresh by additional 448 ARCTIC RESEAUCII EXPEDITION. weights of stones at their base, and my readers may conceive bet- ter than I can describe the position I was in during my detention on that desolate coast. During this trip I had opportunities for much talk \yith the In- nuits concerning the Frobisher expedition, and also concerning some of their own traditions and superetitions. Concerning the " dreaded land," Annawa said : " Years ago many Innuits were carried away on the ice and never came back again. Then Innuits would not live there for a long time. Finally they began to go there again in great num- bers, when once more they were all lost, but how no Innuit could tell. At last, hearing nothing from the people who had gone there, a boat's crew of Innuits went to ascertain their fate. They arrived in the region they sought, but the very first night they could not .sleep, owing to a terrible noise, all the same as if iV((-)i« — the land — cracked, shook, and broke. Tll^rc was no sea, no wind, no ice; se-lar — sky — fine, weather good, yet the dreadful noise continued. However, the searching party went on shore to examine ; they looked around, and they went all over the land, but not one of their people could be found. All were gone! Some mysterious fate had overtaken them. This frightened the new visitors ; they knew not what to make of it. Then, too, the dreadful noises continued ; each night their .sleep was troubled by a repetition of the direful sounds. The earth cracked and rum- bled, and seemed as if breaking up in all directions. It was enough ! Without farther delay, the visitors took to their boat and left the dreaded land. Since then no Innuits will live there." Annawa said the last catastrophe happened when he was a boy; the first was a long time before he was born. On Wednesday, October 9th, though within a mile of Lupton Channel, I determined upon returning to the ship ; it was all but impossible to proceed. But here again were other disappoint- ments ; the wind changed, a heavy storm set in right against us, and, after accomplishing a short distance, we had once more to encamp, this time close to " French Head." My trip thus far had been any thing but pleasant. In the boat I was so (jrampcd, and wet with the spray, that I could hardly move. When I landed my limbs almost refused their several functions, and it was necessary for me to have a good walk before I could restore proper circulation. It was a comfort to have such a walk, a greater comfort to be within the tupic, and a still greater A WHALING INCIDENT. 449 to have, after a time, hot coffee placed before me by the ready hands of Suzhi. The next morning, October 10th, we renewed our boat-voyage back to the ship. On the way a deer was seen, and my crew im- mediately landed to secure it. This was done without much dif- ficulty, guns having been brought into good use for the purpose. The animal was a fine one, and very soon made a great feast for all of us. It was quickly skinned, and the raw food greedily eaten. I partook of some of it, and especially of the marrow of the legs, the bones having been broken by pounding them with a .stone. "Johnny Bull" took the head, broke open the skull, and feasted on the brains, Suzhi now and then thrust her fingers down into the paunch, drawing forth portions of the contents, and eating them with much relish, "Wliilc waiting at this place T took a walk along the beach, and found a ship's beam high and dry on the rocks. It was of oak, twenty-seven feet long, and eighteen by twelve inches square. Spikes that had once helped to hold fast the ship's deck, and the bolts running through at each end, were much oaten with rust. It probably belonged to the Traveller. When we again started it was with difficulty that any progress could be made, owing to the head wind; but at last, toward even- ing, n'c nearcd the locality of the ship. At that time another boat under sail was observed, and we soon found it to be manned wholly by Innuits, It was a pretty sight, that boat, with no load .save its light crew, sailing in the strong wind, with a heavy sea prevailing. The masts and sails were bent over, almost touching the waves, and yet she bounded forward, beautifully rising over the watens, and dashing along like a white whale in alarm. As soon as the boat nearcd us, we learned that during my absence the crew of the George fknrij had captured two whales, and this news was soon afterward fully confirmed when I saw the huge carcasses alongside of the ship. On board. Captain B and his crew were busy and- joyous over the work. A friendly word was hastily given, and I went below, I regretted to learn that a man had been seriou.sly in- jured, nearly losing his life by a blow from one of the captured whales. The boat in which this man was had run with a six- knot breeze right on the whale in an oblique direction, its bow actually mounting the monster's back near its tail. At that mo- ment the " boat-header" — Morgan — threw, with all the force of a Ff 450 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. bold, expert man, two harpoons in quick succession. The whale, feeling the concussion of the boat and the sharp wounds of the irons in his back, desperately and fiercely struck his flukes about, right and left, with the force of a thousand-horse engine. The sea became white under his maddened fury. Occasionally the tip of one of his flukes was raised high above the boat's side, as if about to deal instant destruction to all, and once a blow came heavily down. Morgan saved himself by jumping on one side; but the nearest man was struck and knocked down senseless. The boat's mast was lifted from the step, and the sail thrown in the water, but, fortunately, the boat itself escaped destruction. The huge monster expended most of his power in lashing the water, and then " sounded" — that is, dived into the depths below. On returning to the surface he was met by lances, which caused the usual spouting of blood, and then followed the death-stroke, which made the whale a prize to the daring seamen who had at- tacked it. OO-Mi-EK, OB WOMXN'8 BOAT, THE ANVIL. 451 CHAPTER XXIX. The Anvil. — Prcparntions for returning Homo. — Excursion to Bayard Taylor Pass. — Hard Climbing. — An extensive View. — The Ico Pack in Davis's Strait. — A rapid Descent. — Koturn to the Ship. — Startling Announcement of Captain B . — Another Winter in the Ice. — General Gloom. — A bitter Disappointment. — llow to live and keep Warm. — Innuit Simplicity regarding Money. — Author's Prop- osition concerning Stores. The events that followed my return to the ship on Thursday, October 10th, 1801, were similar to those that I have already re- lated. We all naturally wished to get away and proceed on the voyage home ; ice had begun to form, and we felt that the time was now come for our departure, if wo mean! to leave that year. Thus a few days passed on, during which several of our friends, the Innuits, who had been at different places hunting and sealing, returned. Among them were Ugarng, Artarkparu, and Annawa. Each of these, on my questioning them, spoke of the particular relic on Oopungnewing I had been so anxious to obtain from the moment when Artarkparu told me of it, as recorded in the previ- ous chapter ; and upon requesting them to do so, they each made from wood a model of the article, working at different times, and without the least consultation among themselves. I here introduce an extract from my journal as written at the time: ^^ Saturday, Odohcr 12th, 1861. At 9 A.M. I had interviews with several Innuits concerning the important relic that must still be on the island Oopungnewing. Ugarng saw this relic (which to me is yet undetermined as to its true character) when a young man. lie says that one very strong Innuit, now dead, could lift it, and even did shoidder it. No other Innuit could accomplish the same feat. Another lifted it to the height of his knees, but drop- ped it quickly. Only very few Innuits were able to raise it from the ground. Suzhi, at my request, has just made a pencil sketch of its shape — at least, as near as she could. She evidently never took a pencil in her hand before. Ugarng, who is quite experi- enced in map sketching, has marked out its shape on the same 462 ARCTIC HESEAKCU EXrEUlTlON. leaf as Koo-ou-lo-arng's (Suzlii's) sketch. This has some corre- spondence to the delineation of the one Artarkparu made some days since. Later : "This minute, 10 15 A.M., have found out just what this relic is. It is an anvil! such as were made in former times, without a horn. " To get at this, I got Ugarng to cut out with his knife its rep- resentation in wood. When he finished it I held it out, askinir '■Kis-su?'' — that is, What was the heavy iron at Oopungncwing formerly used for? His answer was an intelligible one, and one that (li'tcnniiics i/ic nature of this imjMftant relic bcijond all question. Before I give it, I will say that this Innuit has been to the States {vide page 102). While there he desired to and did visit various manulaeturing establishments, being himself naturally of a me- chanical turn of mind. I will now give his answer on stating that, holding the index finger of his left hand on the little carved block as I held it up, with his other hand angled into fist and raised above finger to represent liammer, he said, '■All the same as blacksmith.^ This expression, in connection with his pertinent symbolizing, settles the matter satisfactorily to my mind that this relic of Frobisher on Oopungncwing is an anvil." DOABNO'B -WOOn MODEL OF THE lUO.S BELIC. ABTABKrAUL's « UOI> IIDDEL OK THE IBON RKI.IC. Another wood model,* of great similarity to the above two, was executed on the 15th of October by Annawa. When Ugarng saw the relic, or " heavy stone," it was " red with rust;" and Artarkparu informed me that it had been carried to Oopungncwing from Kodlunarn many years ago by Innuits on a sledge. Annawa, in speaking of it, said " it was something that did not grow there," and each one confirmed the others' testi- mony, though examined apart and at different times. Suzhi also • Thi3 model I sent to the English government with many of the Frobishcr relics which I discovered and obtained in the Countess of Warwick's Sound. A SAD DISAITOINTMENT. 453 made ft rudo modol of it by cliowing some toodnoo and then fashioning it into the shape opposite. Thus every thing seemed to eonfirm mo in the belief that the artiele probably yet to be found on Oopungnewing was an anvil formerly belonging to Frobish- Kooou-L«-AiiNirH Ti.cn>.Noo MODBL OK Qr's cxpedltlon ] hencG my desire was TUB IIMIN BKLla i i • 1 /»,1 great to induce some of the natives to go for it, hoping they might return before the ship sailed. But I ibund no one who cared to undertake the task. It was the intention of Captain B to leave the country on the 20th of October, and the minds of all had been made up ac- cordingly. I was anxious to go, before sailing, to a high point near Bayard Taylor Pass, where I could complete my operations pertaining to the trigonometrical survey I had commenced. AVith this design I set out on the morning of October 17th for an ex- cursion thither, and I now copy from my diary a portion of the record made on the evening of that day and on subsequent days: "10 P.M. Shall I put upon paper my feelings of to-night, or shall I leave them to be imagined after stating the bare facts from wliencc they originate ? "At present it is thought that we are ice-imprisoned in Field Bay for the winter/ Solid '■pjacU in Davis's Strait has been seen to- day. How true it is that wo know not what a day may bring forth ! "A few hours ago wo were anticipating the short time that re- mained before the Georrje Ilcnri/s sails were to be given to the wind, and we to be away to our loved ones at home; but now we arc thinking of preparations for sustaining life in these regions ol" ioc and snow. I must make as enduring as ink and paper will allow the incidents of tins day. I begin with my trip across to the west side of the bay, to the highest mountain-top between Field Bay and the Bay of Frobisher. " Early this morning the four boats, with the Georrje Henry's crew, started off to cruise for whales. I set to work engaging a crew of the best Innuits among those who had just come aboard to accompany mc across the bay, and a few minutes sufficed for this. Those selected were Ebierbing, Shcvikoo, 'Jim Crow,' ' Mi- ner,' Oo-ming-mimg, At-tou-se-ark-chune. "After making up the west side of the island, near which the 454 AltCTlC RESEARCH EXl'EDITION. vessel is anchored, and which foms the north and northwest side of the harbor, I was surprised, to find much ice. Indeed, early this morning there was no ice in the harbor, but at the time we left it had formed so thick that it was with great difficulty that the boat could be pulled through it. Finding the ice too heavy to make progress, and apparently much thicker ahead of uj, we concluded to turn our course and strike southwest, using the wind, which was favorable to the latter course. Sail being made, away wo sped at a capital rate, occasionally plowing through 'sludge,'* that served greatly to deaden our speed. "At about eleven o'clock we reached the land where the wintei- passage is made in trr 'ing to Frobishei' Bay. A few minutes were spent hero in deciding which of the party should accompany mc in my tramp to the mountain-top. All but one seemed reluctant to undertake it ; the one I shall always remember, as he seemed rather anxious than otherwise to be my attendant ; it was Shevi- koo, an Innuit that I like more the more I see of him. The rest of the crew were to remain with the boat, taking it, if they chose, to hunt duck and seal. " Shevikoo and I started. The first quarter of a mile was over a plain of fresh -water ice that had been formed by sjj rings bub- bling up and spreading their waters about. This passed, we com- menced our ascent of the rugged hill that lay between us and the mourtain proper that I desired to visit. A few minutes' walk up this incline decided what kind of work we had before us for the next two or three hours. I started from the boat with my tuk- too jacket and trowscrs on. Climbing rougli rocks covered with soft, treacherous snow created a hollinj heat ; I therefore divested myself of the said clothing, reserving only my civilij^ation dress. " Resuming our walk — or rather ouv leaping, plunging, ami tumbling, for this was the nature of our motions during the five hours wc were absent from the boat — our progress up was slow — slow indeed, for the way was really rugged, though not so in ap- pearance. Ilad there been no snow wc could have got along very well, but as it was, the traveling was terrible. This may be be- lieved when I state that nearly the whole distance is covered with sharp and boulder rocks — rocks upon rocks — and over these a covering of snow that made all look fair, but, on attempting to * .Just as the ice bcRins to mnkc, somctimos tlic sca-w.atcr, to si coiisidprabic deptli, becomes so cold that it is thick like porridge — so thick, indeed, that a boat might ns well be pulled through a lake of tar ns through "sludge." THE ICE-PACK. 455 make passage over it, down through soft snow we went till our feet rested on stones, which sometimes proved firm and sometimes proved man-traps. Now and then we sunk thigh deep, our feet dropping into chinks, and becoming quite firmly wedged therein. As wc wound our zigzag way up the steep mountain, I was ex- pecting every moment that my volunteer companion would refuse to go farther, but in tliis I was happily mistaken. He was a match for me. " I was rejoiced to find, as wc drew near the top, that the snow became sufficiently hard to bear us up, thus enabling us to make better progress. The summit was finally reached, and a moment's look around was sufiicient to repay me for all the efforts I had made to gain that point. Field Bay, Davis's Strait, Frobisher Bay, and Kingaitc were within sight, I was surprised at the height we had evidently gained. Lady Franklin Island, out in FIKI.Ii llAY AND DAVia 8 BTKAIT, FUOM TUB HEIGHTS HV UAVAIU) TAYLOU I'ASB. Davis's Strait, Monumental Island, and the islands of the extreme land between Frobisher Bay and Field Bay, which I visited last winter, loomed up as I had never seen them before at so great a distance from them, showing that the high land on whicli 1 was was high indeed. "I took the spy -glass, and proceeded to make a prolonged ob- servation. I first directed the jlasa toward the vessel, which was at a distance of seven miles ; I then directed it to Davis's Str it. This I saw was filled with a heavy pack. I swept with the instrument along down said strait to the extremity of Hall's 456 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Island. No black water — naught but j^o-ch, pack, met my view ! I was somewhat surprised at this, but thought that perhaps to Captain B this would be but a familiar, every-year affair. The sequel to this will be soon written. " I asked my Tnnuit attendant to take the glass ard ' iak-Jcoo seko' — look at the sea-ice. When Shevikoo had viewed it care- fully, I a?ked him, '/Selv amasuil V — Do you see much ice ? T^o re- pl ied '■Noud-ho — noud-loo .'' — Yes — yes. From the deep, slow tones of his voice as he answered mc I understood that be too was sur- prised at the sight. J. wondered how a vessel was to get out of Field J3ay ; but the next instant I thought, 'Well, now. Captain B will find some way, of course, which my inexperienced self can not discover, by which the George Henry can be put through that pack.' My thoughts were also of Captain Parker and his son, who had, each with a vessel, left about this time last year and proceeded home. " I took another prolonged look, before I left, at Davis's Strait, Monumental Island was white, and its sides presented no black rock peering out ; and the same was true of Lady Franklin IslauJ,. The pack appeared very rough ; much pinnacled ice was among it, and it was especially to be seen around the first island of the extreme land next Davis's Strait. As far as the eye could reach by the aid of the most excellent glass, up and down the strait, no open water met my view. I then turned to Kingaite. Miles on miles of mountain there were before me. A long line of black cloud stretched from the extreme south to the extreme northwest, just enveloping the tops of most of the Kingaite ridge. I was dis- appointed in not getting a sight of Oopungnewing and Niounte- lik ; the ridge of another mountain, distant two miles, ran ir. such a direction as to hide them, but a small island near Oopungne- wing was in sight. The termination of the grass plain, Kus-se- gear-ark -ju-a, opposite and near Niountelik, was within view. The little bay on the Frobisher Bay side, making up to within one mile of Field Bay, was nearly down beneath us. "On climbing this mountain my clothing became saturated with perspiration. On making the top the wind was blowing cuttftgly cold, thus serving to chill mc too hastily for comfort or for long endurance. Before I finished tlie observations I made up there I came near freezing my fingers, and the time was long, after leaving that exposed positic, before I could bring them back to their natural warmth. The stinging pains I endured in STARTLING NEWS. 457 those fingers while the restoration was going on seemed almost unbearable. " We remained forty-five minutes on this mountain-top. Had it not been for the lateness of the hour I should have proceeded two miles farther; this distance would have led me to the ridge which limited my view, shutting out from sight the interesting places named. This ridge is by the entrance to the little bay, or, more properly, the harbor making up nearest Field Bay. "Taking a last look at the scenery around, we started down the mountain. Our stops were rapid. I had the misfortune to get one severe fall. As we were descending the steepest part, my right foot caught between two stones that were deep beneath a snow-covering, and the swift rate at which I was going threw me headlong while I was fast in the rocks. I recovered myself anC extricated my foot, though not until the cramp had seized my leg and tied knots in it. I cried lustily to Shevikoo, who was ten rods ahead, lie did not hear me at first, but the second call brought him to. I managed to get the knots rubbed out of my leg before he reached me, though it was some time before I could proceed. The time of our descent was not a quarter of that con- sumed in going up. When within a mile of the boat I saw the balance of my crew awaiting our return, and we reached the boat at -i P.Ar., having been five hours absent from it. "We started at once for the vessel, making slow progress at first on account of the ice. At length we reached open water, raised sail, and sped along. As we approached the harbor we found that the ice had become so thick that it was only by hard pulling, and hard drives of the oars into it, that we got to the ship. As soon as I was aboard, I asked Captain B if his men had another whale. lie replied that as yet he did not know, but the indications were, as his boats were not in, that they had. He was in fine spirits. But, alas! how soon were they changed to the very depth of grief! "Shevikoo was the first one of the crew up the side of the ves- sel. As soon as he got aboard he told Captain B we had seen much ice down at the entrance of the bay. When I went down below, Captain B came to me asking if I had seen any heavy ice — -/irtc/i: — in Davis's Strait. I told him that I had, and proceeded to give him as truthful an account of it as I could. I was astounded at the effect it produced upon him. Then it was that I first began to realize, to feel the overwhelming importance. 458 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. the momentous character of that pack. On getting through my description, telling him that I not only took repeated careful looks of it through his glass, but had required Shevikoo to do the same. Captain B , with fevered brow, responded, ' Our fate is sealed! Another lointer here ! We are already imjirisonedr " This was now the theme, the all-important subject of thought of every one who heard Captain B 's explanation of how it was that all hope of returning to the States this season was now cut off. Captain B no longer felt able to rejoice at the cap- ture of another whale. To and fro he paced the cabin — now on deck — another moment back again. " At eight o'clock the four boats came in announcing the fact that another whale had been secured. At any other time this in- telligence would have been received by Captain B with a joyful heart, but now he was occupied in thinking what he was to do under the present dismal circumstances. When the boats came in and were placed in position on their cranes, the captain broke to the ofRcers the subject that now before all others press- ed upon him. During the evening ho proceeded to state that, from various circumstances during the year, he had been think- ing there might be something of the kind, to wit, pack-ice, com- ing down Davis's Strait. He said, ' Last winter hung on late ; there has been no summer; the year has been an unusually cold one ; the water of the bay has been almost of sea-ice temperature, while now the first cold snap turns it at once to porridge, and then into solid ice. All these results are from the heavy pack that has probably been coming down Davis's Strait nearly all the season.' " Captain B said, farther, that to take the pack at this sea- son of the year would be the very height of foolhardiness. In the spring the whalers do not hesitate to do it, for then constant daylight and warm, thawing weather are expected. But now (3very thing is freezing up. Long, dark nights arc upon us, and the George Henry is not such a vessel that one should think of venturing with her into dangerous places. Captain B is thankful that I made the trip I have to-day. lie says, ' What would have been our condition had you not seen and icportcd this ? As soon as possible I should have been on our way ; I should have weighed anchors and raised sail at the first far wind. But in what kind of a situation should we soon have found our- selves? In the pack, irithout the power to retreat P OUR FATE DECIDED. 459 " To-morrow morning Captain B goes out for the object of visiting some point overlooking Davis's Strait, near the en- trance to Field Bay, to determine what he must do on seeing how the pack is. It is hoped that he will find the pack I saw ended; but he says he has no doubt, from what I saw, that it will be im- possible to get out this season ; that we must make up our minds to stop here this winter. He is already planning for the winter- ing of his men. He says he will have to divide them among the natives, as the ship has neither provision nor fuel sufiicient to last till she is again free from ice and can reach home. ******* ^^ Friday, October 18th, 1861. This morning, the first and all-im- portant matter of our being obliged to winter here absorbs our at- tention. It is the general subject of conversation fore and aft. Captain B started off" at 7 A.M., taking with him his princi- pal officers, for the purpose of making a survey from Budington Mountain* of the pack in Davis's Strait. At 9 15 A.M. he re- turned, reporting that Rescue Harbor was so solidly frozen that he could not get through it, and was obliged to make for another point this side. At last he made a landing, and proceeded to an eminence this side ; but it was not such a view as he desired to make, though he saw enough to satisfy him that it would only be running a terrible risk to attempt getting out this season. Cap- tain B designs crossing the bay to the high land by Parker's Harbor, or near French Head, to-day or to-morrow, if the ice will admit of it. ******* " October 20th, 1861. This morning the ice in the harbor was so firm as to bear me up. As soon as I went on deck, long before the sun was up, I made my way down the ship's side upon it. The pack outside the bay and the new ice now nearly covering it have us imprisoned. For nine months to come v;e are ice-hound! Some of the men still think wc shall get out, but I do not think Captain B has now the remotest idea that we can. " Now (1. P.M.) the thermometer is at 13°, the sun shining briglitly, the sky cloudless. For three days now, had there been a clear way before us, we could not have got out, for there has * Named by me after S. O. Budington, who was master of the George Henri/. This mount, 500 feet liigh, is in hu. C2° 53' N., long. VA'^ 42' W. ; is three miles due cast of the Georpe Henry Harbor, and a little over one mile northeast of the centre of Rescue Harbor. 460 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. not been wind enough to fill the sails. Surely toe are doomed lo winter here. Another year of disappointment is mine ; my mis- sion to the North yet unaccomplished, I was rejoicing in my heart that the time had nearly arrived when I should be on my way to the States for the purpose of preparing again for the voyage to King William's Land, when a thunderbolt descends from an icy sky and rives my dearest plans ! But stop I is not the hand of God in this ? is all this luck ? The wisdom of Him who sees all, and doth as lie willcth, is above all the comprehension of mortals. « * * * * Monday, October 21s^ 1861. The ice this morn- ing I find by measurement to be four inches thick. During the night it was nearly calm, and the thermometer ranged from 9° to 10°. Notwithstanding the dubious circumstances by which we have been surrounded for the past few days, wo have all had more or less hope of still arriving at our homes this winter; but, dreaded as it is, wo have to bring our hearts to submit to this dis- pensation of Providence. The George Henry is fated to be ice- bound here for full nine months to come. The 20th of October, instead of finding us on our way as purposed, with hearts swell- ing with joyous anticipations of a quick passage home and of soon meeting with our loved ones, finds us engaged in planning for subsistence during an imprisonment of nine months in these frozen regions. What a change I what disappointment ! and yet who shall say it has not been wisely ordered. ' Man proposes — God disposes; cheerfully, then, we should submit to our lot. * -x- * * * * -x- ^^ Friday, October 26t/i, 1861. This morning, to all appearance, our winter's fate is sealed. The ice is now seven inches thick, and is rapidly increasing. It is now twelve o'clock, noon, the sun shining brightly, the wind blowing strong from the northwest, and the thermouicter only one degree above zero. "After breakfiist Ca{)tain B sent out three Innuits to go to Budington Mountain and see the position of the pack. They re- turned at half past four; their report removes the hope of all those who were still looking to get out of our imprisonment this season. The Innuits state that seaward it is all ice ; the bay is all ice ex- cept the small opening to be seen from the ship's deck. The lower and entrance part of the bay is filled with ^mck; m Davis's Strait nothing is to be seen but pack — ' all white, no black.' The effect produced by this upon some of the George Henry's men was very painful. FOOD AND FUEL. 401 " Feelings of disappointment — sad disappointment — steal over me now and then at our not being able to proceed according to our plans ; but I confidently believe it is all for the best." It was upon Captain B that the care and anxiety princi- pally fell. lie had to plan and arrange for his ship's company during another nine or ten months, and there was but a scanty supply of provisions and fuel to do it with. As to the latter want, that could be met in various ways. The jawbones of three whales recently captured would serve for a long time ; one of these was sawed, chopped, and split for use. The bone is very porous, and filled with oil ; the heat from it is great. One cord of bone must be equivalent to four cords of live oak. There was also some timber of the wrecked whaler down the bay. As it regarded food, we had to husband our stores very care- fully. On Sunday, October 27tli, a new order of things com- menced, and instead of three meals a day we had only two. Bread or flour was the most nourishing food then on board, with the exception of beans, which were to be served out twice a week. There was salt junk and salt pork, but eating cither was felt to be almost worse than being without. Thus wc soon found it best to fall back upon our Innuit food, and it would have amused many persons at home to have seen our mes.ses at our daily meals. Some, too, would have wondered how we could eat such stulF: but certainly that sui'prise would cease when they were told wc must cat it in order to live. I do not think it can be said that any of us ate " black skin" (whale skin) and other Inmiit food be- cause we really liked it. .Some wise person has said that man should not live to cat, but cat to live. Wn were of the latter class, hence the necessity of rcli.shing whatever came in our way. I may here mention an incident that occui-red about this time which shows the simplicity of the Innuit character in matters con- nected with money. Of course monci/, as we have it, is to them unknown. One day "John Bull" came to Captain B to buy a new one-dollar shirt, handing him tn-o American cents as pay- ment. Ugarng, in like manner, tried to buy a violin to which he had taken a fixncy. The violin belonged to Bailey, one of the steerage hands, and Ugarng, calling him aside, whispered in his ear, " Viddle, viddle — wonga — pilt^tay — money," and then slipped into Bailey's hand what he supposed to be a generous sum, o?!e cei\t of the latest coinage. But Bailey could not trade for that, and Ugarng went away without his " viddle." 462 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXrEDITION. I conclude this chapter with an extract from my diary of Octo- ber 80th : " The George Henry is short of provisions for the time she is now obliged to remain here. I have already signified to Captain B what I know will, under the circumstances, meet the ap- probation of the contributors to the expenses of my out6j; in the way of provision, ammunition, etc. I have told him that whatev- er I have that will contribute to the sustenance of his ship's com- pany the present winter, the same is at his command. I have nine cans of pemmican, of about one hundred pounds each, re- maining of the twelve and a half which I had when I left the States. I have also one and a half casks of Borden's meat-biscuit. The pemmican and meat-biscuit are of the most excellent quality, and equivalent to fully 3200 pounds of fresh beefsteak. Of these articles, as also of ammunition, I have already spoken to Caijtain B , saying that they were ready to supply his and the ship's company's necessities." DEATH OF SHAKIvEY'S WIFE. 463 CHAPTER XXX. Sick Mflm-ma-yat-chc-nng immured in a living Tomb ! — The dying Woman lingers for Weeks, almost starving. — Tlio Aurora Borenlis. — A mngnificcnt Display. — Strange Custom relating to new Mothers. — Nukertou's Grave. — More singular Ciistonis. — A Talk with the Dead. — Presents to the Departed. — Life in the Win- ter. — Theatricals on Board. — Henry Smith, the "Negress." — Consternation of some of tho Innuits on seeing a black Face. — Another Excursion. — A Winter Sledge-journey. — Old Mother Petato. — Novel Modo of warming tho Feet. — More traditionary Statements. — A groat Feast. — Frozen Deer. — Deer's Paunch con- sidered delicious Food. — Return to the Ship. — Visit Tikkoou. — Tradition of a Ship built and masted. I BKGIN this chapter -witli the sketch from my diary of a sad scene which passed under my observation : " October 28th, 1861. This morning, or during the night, 'Jfam- ma-yat-che-ung,^ 'Mary,' the wife of ' Sharkey,' died. This Iniiuit woman has long been an invalid. Ilcr disease was consumption, one that is carrying oft' more Innuits than all other diseases to- gether. Some months ago it was thought she could not survive long ; tho Innuits gave her up, I may add, as one dead. Iler loiwj-a — husband — Sharkey, though all his previous conduct was kind to her, gave her up as dead. A tupic was made, and into it Mary was removed ; it was her living tomb ! Sharkey took to himself another wife. For weeks and weeks Mary lived help- less and almost starving. Occasionally some few of the Innuits would carry this dj'ing woman morsels of seal, duck, or walrus. Of course, all that was valuable or convenient for Mary's com- fort was taken away when the Innuits carried her to the ' house of her death,' for it is their custom to leave every thing in the tupic or igloo where one of their number dies as unfit to be touch- ed ever after. Mary must have died during the night, for when Suzhi called this morning at the tupic with cooked meituk — duck — sent her by Tookoolito, no answer was made, and, on looking in, Suzhi saw that she was dead. Innuit custom will not permit one of that people to enter the place of the dead under such cir- cumstances. One of tlie Innuits came over to the vessel and an- nounced the death of Mary, and Captain B , with one of the ship's men, went over to bury her. The captain looked in, and 46-i AUCTIC IlESEAllCII EXIT-DITION. saw enough to chill one's heart's blood. The corpse met hia view uith head erect, and eyes staring at him with the overpow- ering glare of death 1 The tupic beeaine her winding-sheet, and stones were piled over lier — her only monument." On November 2d, at G P.M., there was another magnificent dis- play of the aurora. From east to west — .«outh of us — was a beau- tiful arch of living gold. The eastern base rested, to all aj^pcar- ancc, on the high land, as did also the western, and the centre ol the arch was 10° above the horizon south. AUUuiiA AS ki;l.n H'.d after. When back to the vessel I was covered with perspira- tion, though the thermometer was 62° below the freezing point. "At fifteen minutes past 10 A.M. Ebierbing and I started, with little expectation of being back to-night. We took along the pair of snow-shoes of Ebierbiiig's (of Esquimaux style and make), to be us{>d alternately by each of us if the occasion rccpiired it, and added to our traps a snow-knife, with which to make us a snow-house on the way, if we needed it. " The team of dogs was an excellent one, tractable, strong, and of great speed wherever and whenever the traveling would ad- mit of it. The number was not what we could wish, being only seven, but it was as great as we could have. Had my four ' Green- landers' been here, their helj) would have been ample for almost any emergency. " The leader of Ebicrbing's team proved to be of no ordinary quality. Though, for much of the way to the point where I was obliged to turn back on Fridav last in order to save mv remain- ing companion (Lamb), the tracks we had made were obliterated, yet this leader, with admirable instinct, kept us in the desired course. We had not proceeded far from the vessel before I found, to my joy, that the traveling had greatly improved since Friday. The snow, in many places, had become firmly packed — much of the way sufliciently firm to hold up the dogs and the broad shoe of the sledge, with both Ebierbing and me on it. "We had other work than traveling to do. Wc worked des- perately to keo}) our faces and feet from freezing. The wind was blowing a smart breeze all the way up the bay, directly fi'om ahead, at a temperature of 62° below the freezing mark. Th(^ air calm, with a temperature of 100° below the freezing point of 488 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. • •water, would be much more endurable than with such a wind, charged with the temi)erature it was. AVe took turns in trotting along beside the sledge, more for the object of keeping ourselves from freezing than with the view of easing the dogs of our addi- tional weight. By the aid of these seven dogs, and the broad run- ners of this sledge of Ebicrbing's, we were enabled in two hours to reach the ultimatum of our attempt on Friday. After getting half a mile beyond said point we really found good passable trav- eling, and, by keeping close inshore, as far as our course would admit of it, wc found much fair ice, the tide having overflowed the snow and changed it to ice. "As wc came within the distance of half a mile of the plains,! kept a constant look-out to sec if I could discover some human figure out watching our approach. I may here remark, as an in- cident of this journey, that so cutting was the cold wind that it froze the water of the eyes, locking them up in ice, so that it was only by vigilance and effort that I could keep myself in seeing order, !^^any a lump of ice that I was forced to withdraw from my eyes showed specimens of eyelashes embalmed in crystal. As I said, I kept as good a look-out as I could, hoping that our ap- proach might be welcomed by the one we sought to snatch from her desolate imprisonment. The ascent from the sea-ice to the plains was so gradual that I knew not when we were on the one or the other. I was also in doubt about our having made the correct landing, for the snow had covered up all former sledge and dog markings; but, on watching the motions of our noble, vigilant leader, I felt satisfied that his instinct was proving true — that he was leading us, by marks imperceptible to human eye, to the point we so impatiently sought to reach. This confidence wo soon found not misplaced, for ahead of us we perceived various articles left by the Innuits who were recently living there stick- ing up above the snow. The dogs increased their speed, as is usual with them on ncaring an inhabited place, and soon placed us alongside where the igloos had been. But where were the three igloos that I had visited Thursday, January 30th, a little less than four weeks ago ? Not one to be seen ! I took my snow- knife from the sledge, and, after my companion had finished his woi if whipping down the dogs to a prostrate position, I bade him follow me. " Around and around we walked, searching for the igloos. Sure was I that we were at the point I had struggled to reach. Could SEEKING THE LOST VILLAGE. 489 it be possible that the deep snow hud covered thcin up? My In- nuit friend told me that such was probably the case. No foot- prints save our own could I discover. Were we tnivcling hced- lesH^y over the grave of her whom we were fighting to save? Th'.s was a question that rushed into my brain. Then the thought can.e to me, perhaps she still lives in some tomb beneath oui' feet. List! list! methought I heard a sound as if mulllodl All was as still as a charnel-house. Ebierbing's accustomed eye was not long in discerning a spot that satisfied him that, by cutting down through the snow, it would lead to the dome of an igloo. " Knowing it to be repugnant to his feelings to touch any thing belonging to an igloo covering the dead, I spared him all pain on that .score by digging down unassisted. A few moments sufliced to satisfy mc that Ebicrbing had indicated to mc the precise spot leading to an igloo, for a few cuts with my snow-knife brought me down to the dome of one, and a few more through it. After cutting a hole of sufficient si/c to let in light and my head, I knelt down, and, with throbbing heart, surveyed within. The igloo was vacated of every thing save a large lump of blubber back upon the dais or platform — the bed-place and seat of the Innuits — and a few bones, the remains of some of the tuktoo that had been kill- ed by the Innuits on the plains. A brief search revealed the apex of another igloo. Through the dome of this I cut a hole, but found the interior still more vacant ; not a thing was in it, if I except a drift of snow that completely filled the front of the igloo, closing up the place that had been used as the entrance. This made two igloos that I had searched without finding the object of my sj'm- pathy and pursuit. Where was the third? That was now the question, beyond the probability of being immediately answered. We sought here and there, but unsuccessfully for a while. Ebier- bing took an oo-intr (seal-spear) — which was. among the articles I indicated as pointing up through the snow which we saw as we made our approach — and 'sounded,' striking it down through the deep snow in one place after another, till he hit what told him the third igloo was there. He called to me, and pointed to the spot, withdrawing himself a little distance off", where he awaited my opening up whatever might be below. Stroke after stroke with my long knife loosened the hard pure snow-drift. I lifted the blocks up out of their bed, casting them aside. This was the final search. My feelings, as I delved away at this heart-tearing work, may be better conceived than described. The dome of the 490 ARCTIC RESEAKCII EXPEDITION. igloo was readied. The beat tliat had been generated within from the fire-light had turned the snow of which it was made into solid JJC-- BKEKINO THE I.OHT VlI.I.AIiE. ice, and I had difllculty in pfctting a hole through this. All ihi.s time wo were exposed to the wind, blowing its cold, freezing blast from the northwest. Afy snow-knife gave way in cutting this icy dome, and I was obliged to take in its place the seal-.spear. With this T (piickly penetrated the wall under me, thus revealing i1k' fact that a lining, or second envelope, was 3'et to be cut through before I could determine my success in iinding her whom I sought. It is a custom (piite prevalent with the Innnits to lino their snow- houses with sealskins, or such sail-cloth as they occasionally ob- tain from the whalers, ibr the object of shedding the drojipings tVom the melting dome of the igloo, which follow when a large fire-light is keptburning, or when the weather becomes very mod- erate. ''This igloo I found to be lined with both sealskins and sail- cloth sewed together. With the knife I made an opening through this materitd. Throwing back its folds, and peering down into the interior, I there beheld her whom my soul aspired to help and to .save. But she moved not, she answered not to my call. Could she be slumbering .so soundly, so sweetly, that the ordi- nary tone of the human voice cou]d not arouse her? There she was, her face turned to the wall at her right, reclining in her I'ouch, fully enveloped in bed -covering. P^nlarging the opening I had already made for the purpo.sc of descending into this igloo, I called first to my Tnnnit friend to come near me. With cau- tious steps he approached. I told him the discovery I had made, and tluit I wished him to assist me as I descended, and to remain THE WOMAN FOUND DEAD. 491 "miK MiiVKU NOT, SllK ANSttEliKI) .NOT To MV lAI.I.." by wliilo [ (letonninod wlicthcr the woman brcnthod or not. As tlie opening was dirootly over the ikkutncr, I had considerable thfllculty in getting down into the igloo, but at last I was within. In breathless silence I approached the object before me. I un- mittencd my right hand, and placed it on her forehead. // wan friMd marble! She is dead! she is dead! were my uttered words to my friend, who stood on the snow roof looking down, and watching intently for the momcntons result. Her whom we thought to rescue, (lod /iiDisfJ/ had rcscncd. He found her here, lonely and helpless, imprisoned in a clay tabernacle, and /his en- tombed in ice walls and snow — deserted, abandoned by her peo- ple, when at ///.•>• bidding an angel with white wing — whiter than 492 ARCTIC RESEAIJCII EXPEDITION. the pure, radiant snows around — took the jewel from its broken casket, and bore it aloft to its home. "Is she not better off now than when in this sinful world? ask- ed my weeping heart, as I looked upon the ice-fixed features be- fore nic. But the scene I can not now dwell upon. " I turn to the simple record of my investigations of whatever might lead to a conjecture of the time of this woman's death, and other incidents relating thereto. "At the immediate entrance to the igloo — within tie igloo — was a drift of snow reaching from the base to the dome. This snow had found its way in by a crevice not larger than my fin- ger. On digging the drift away, I found a portion of a snow block that had been a snow door. As it had become but a frag- p-ont of insufficient size to seal up the entrance from the toohsoo, or passage-way, into the main igloo, slabs of ' black skin' had been piled up, to moke up the deficiency of the snow block. Whether tliis was done by the deserted woman or not I can not decide. There is a probability that the Innuits, who so cruelly abandoned her to her fate, nearly filled up the entrance, then withdrew, turn- ed round, and, by means of their arms and hands, reaching within through the small opening, completed the sealing up, the last act being to place a block of snow in the small remaining crevice. " The woman, I doubt not, was so helpless as to be unable to got ofi' the bed-platform from the time the Innuits left till her death. On the network over the fireplace was a single article — a 2Kiu-loo (mitten). Over the instrument used by the Innuits to contain their fire-light was hung a long iron pan in which to make snow-water. This contained ice, leaving the evidence that the w^oman's fire had ceased to burn, that the water had become frozen, and that, in order to quench her burning thirst, she had chipped ice from the pan (which hung close by her head as slio lay in bed) by means of her oodloo (woman's knife). A tobacco- pipe was near her head also, apparently having been used just before she died. By her side — between her and the wall of the igloo — was a four-gallon tin can, containing articles of the char- acter and variety possessed by every Iimuit woman — needles, reindeer sinews (for thread), oodloo, beads, etc., etc. There was abundance of whale skin within the igloo, and so of ooksook with which to continue a fire ; but all of it was down on the fioor of the igloo, without the reach of the woman, if she were unable to get from her bed, which I presume was the case when the Innuits RELIEF JOURNEY. 493 left her. The bedding was extremely scanty. Over her limbs was nauglit but an old sealskin jacket, over her body and shoul- ders the shreds of a tuktoo skin and piece of an old blanket. As I turned back the covering from ber shoulders, I saw that she was reduced to ' skin and bones.' As I looked upon her tattooed face, it was youthful and fair; even a smile was there, as if the King of Cold had fastened upon her at the very moment when her spirit welcomed the white-winged angel from heaven. "I know not how long I tarried in tlii.s that had been her liv- ing tomb, and was now the tomb of that only which is earthly. But at last I raised myself through the opening in the don. . by which I had made my entrance, and, witli the assistance of my Inuuit friend, proceeded to cut out snow-blocks and place them over the excavated place in the igloo. Having secured it as well as we could, thus reburying, as it were, the dead, we turned our faces to the sledge and dogs, and were soon on our way to the ship." On Saturday, ^fareh 1st, news arrived by Koodloo of the ill success attending him and Ebierbiug on their .seal-hunts at Too- koo-li-to Inlet, and of the starving condition of their families. 1 thereupon determined to return with Koodloo and carry food to relieve them, and also to ell'eet arrangements to have Koodloo and Ebierbing, wltli their families, remove to Field Bay. We started with eight dogs attaclied to our sledge, but the deep yield- ing snow made our progress at first very slow. Our course for the first four miles was nearly due north, when wo struck the land oil the east side of Grinnell ^^ount; thence, for a distance of fifteen miles, our journey was inland, first traversing a chain of lakelets cmbo.somed amid mountains. When about three miles inland on our wa}', we came across an igloo nearly buried in snow ; it was one that had been made a half-way house by Ebier- bing and his party in going up. After this our way wound in and out among tiic mountain.s, up and down the steep sides, the sledge often nearly running over the dogs, till we came to Too- koolito Inlet, where we expected to find Ebierbing, bis wife, and Kood loo's family. "Isaiah," the little son of Koodloo, was seen coming out to meet us, and soon afterward we reached the igloos. Tookoolito gladl}' welcomed us, her husband being out over a seal-hole. The next day, ^Mareh 3d, finding that Ebierbing had not 5'et come in, Koodloo and I went in search of him with dogs and sledge. 494 AUCTIC IJESEAHt'll ICXrKDlTIDN. AVhcn within three caWes' (hstancc of where he was still seated beside the seal-hole, having been there since the previous niorn- hig, ho signilied to us not to appi'oaeh nearer, lest we should frighten the seal, as it had come up and given a pufl' We then returned to the igloo and remained lor another night. On the morning of ]\Iarch -1th Ebierbing had not returned, and T wcm once more to look for hiin, l)nt soon discovered him approaching. He had been ttro dud (i InilJ f/ayv (ind fico 7ii;/hts at that seal-hole, patiently silting over it vilhovl fuod or drinl! and he had not caught the seal either. On returning to the itj-loo some scjuii and other food was given him, and he then expressed a determination to go and try again. On the evening of ^[arch atli I was again at the shij>, Ebior- biug, his wife, and infant having aeet)mpaui<'d me. I lelt a siip- l^ly of my jiemmiean A)r Koodloo and hi,> family, until l^bierbing should relui'u with the dogs and sledge for them. The last hall' of the monlh oi' ]\hirch 1 was chiefly ociMipi-il with prej)arations for the sledge journey which I projiosed makiuL: up Frobisher r>ay, and to which I Jiave before referred. F con- clude this chapter with an extract from my diar}' of Januaiv yih, concerning a subject which was always ju'esent with me, and to ;i consideration of which I gave many thouglitful hours: "This r.^1. r have callcil on my Innuit friends Ebierbing and Tookoolito. They are going to accompany me to the I'nited States. I take them with the object cjf having them as interprel- ors on 111}- still }ii'opos('d voyage to King William's Land and Boothia b'elix. Among the innuits who sjhmuI their lives in the vicinity of the places named, there exists the history of Sir John Franklin's expedition from about the time the /•Jn.hiis and 7'r/v,, became beset in the ice, near King William's Land, to its linal di.<- persion, and of all events connected therewith. I rejieat: the his- tory of Sir John Franklin's ex]H'dition exists among the Innuits now living on and in the \-ieinitv of King William's ljand,^hin- treal Island, and rxKithia l''elix J'eiunsula. I am almost /msilir'. that il' I can be so blessed by the Powei- that overrules all things as to make a successful jiassagt; to the field of my desired o])era- tions, I can, after a time, aceom[)!ish such a work as shall make it a matter of astonishment to the civilized world that the same has not been done before.'' F.llliatlllMl AUAlTlSli A KllAl.'s "I.LOW." SLEDGE JOURNEY. 497 CHAPTER XXXII. Commencement of Sledge Journey up Frobishcr Bny. — Parting with Tookoolito. — Crossing the Pass. — Arrival at OoinniK'iewiiiK. —Search for tiie "Anvil." — A Seal-feast. — A AValriis Hunt. — Speiirin^ the Walrus. — Biiiklini; an Igloo. — In- nuit Puppies. — Arrival at Brewster Point. — A young Seal. — Unsuccessful At- tempt to catch the Mother. — Trij) uj) Newton's Fiord, — Out all Night. — An ex- temi)ore Igloo the fourtli Eucanipnient. — Dog Comforters. — Caugiit iu a Storm. — Peril and Fatigue. — Safe lleturn to the fifth Encampment, same as the third. Ox Tuesday, the 1st of April, 1862, 1 started on my exploring sledge trip up Frobisbcr Bay, to whicli a'lusion has already been made (sec page 471). Some of the ofllcers and crew of tbc Gcorrje llmrij were proceeding to Oopungiiewing with a whale-boat and whaling apparatus lashed to a sledge drawn by dogs, and I took the opportunity of transporting my material over the Bayard Taylor I'ass, [)roposing to go on from Oopungncwing with the ship's sledge The party consisted of nine persons, four belonging to the ship's company, four Innuits, and myself, and at 7 A.M. wc start- ed from the ship. Our team of dogs was a good one, numbering nineteen, all in excellent order, and in two hours wc made the land, commencing the journey across the Pass. Tookoolito, who had been of great assistance to me in making my preparations for this journey, had promised to see me in the morning and bid mc good-by; but she overslept herself, and I was disappointed of seeing her. After making three quarters of a mile, on looking back I saw an Innuit far behind, but supposed it to be one of our party whom our quick movement had left in the rear. Pi'cs- cntly one of the ship's company called my attention to the fact that Tookoolito was hastening after us. I knew at once that the noble-hearted woman was anxious to see me, in accordance with her exprcs.sed purpose of the previous evening. Turning back, I met her laboriously working her way along among the hum- mocky ice, quite exhausted widi her exertions. As soon as she could speak, she said, " I wanted to see you before you left, to bid you good-by." I thanked her, expressed my regret for the trouble she had tpken, and asked where her babe was. She Ii 498 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. rolled down her hood, and there, nestled at her back, was the sweetly-sleeping Tuk-e-lik-e-ta. Taking Tookoolito by the hand, I thanked her for all her kindness to me, and assured her that Captain B would attend to her and Ebierbing's wants while I was absent, seeing that they did not suU'er for lack of food. J then sent her back with two of the crew who had accompanied us thus far, but were now returning. The descent of the Pass was for a portion of the way danger- ous, and at all times exciting ; the passage was down three de- clivities, one of which was at an angle of 45°. To guard against accident, the Innuits placed straps made of walrus hide over the forward part of each runner, allowing the same to sweep back un- der the runners; this acted as a drag by digging deep into the snow. To the stern of the sledge was fastened a line twenty fath- oms long, to which Lamb, ^Morgan, and myself clung for the pur- pose of holding back. The dog-driver was directly in front of his team, whipping them back, so that thoy might not give to the sledge any swifter motion than it would have fi'om its own impe- tus. Thus the descent was safely aceomjilishcd. We arrived at Oopungnewing at 4 P.M., having been on the way but nine hours, and wcn-e kindly welcomed by the Innuits, large and small, as wc drove up to their igloos on the southeast end of the island. Several of the ship's crew were also there, liv- ing with them, and apparently enjoying i)erfect health. Soon after our arrival I })rocccded to the igloo of Artarkparu, to learn the precise spot where he had last seen the " anvil." An- nawa was with the old man ; and from the conversation that fol- lowed, I soon found that Ar-Iood-loong, the wife of Artarkparu, who was seated at her usual place before the ikkumer, was better ac- quainted with the particulars than any other one of the party. 1 immediately promised her beads and tobacco if she would accom- pany me to the spot where the relic could be found. With alac- rity .slie drew on her hodlins, and bounded out like a deer, pro- ceeding over the rocks westward, while I exchanged a few more words with the two old men. They informed me that when this "anvil" was last seen it was within ten fathoms of where we then were, but that it had been tumbled off the rocks into the sea. At very low water it could be seen ; and they told me that the ice would go away from the place before the ship sailed, and that they would help me get it then. I then joined Arloodloong, w^ho had waited for mc upon the ANVIL.— THE WALRUS HUNT. 499 rocks, and slie directed my attention to a certain level spot of land not far off, where the natives sometimes build their igloos or erect tuples. She said that, when she had a nu-tar-ung (babe) yet unborn, the "heavy stone" (anvil) was there, and was used as a seat by herself and many Innuits who at that time had their ig- loos on the spot. On inquiring which of her sons was the nu- tarung to whicli she referred, she rei)lied Kod-la-ar-linj, a young man I supposed to be about twenty-live years of age. llcr moth- er'had also seen it there ; but, after a time, her people had brought it away to the locality indicated by Artakparu, and had finally tumbled it into the sea. In the evening Koojesse came home, drawing into his igloo three seals and a fox. One seal, I should think, weighed 200 jjounds. The two others were young ones, of but two or three days old, both as white as snow. lie caught the mother and one of the young oiics in a seal's igloo, which was on the ice and over a seal-hole. Just before sundown I took a walk to the top of the hill at Oopungnewing, and saw Jones's Cape, and many other places where I had previously been. Kingaite's rampart of mountains also stood up in grandeur before me. The Bay of Frobishcr was tilled with fragments of ice, sendmg forth thundering noises as the swift tides dashed pico after piece upon each other. I was delighted to sec on the north side an unbroken pathway along the coast upward. That evening a great seal-foast took place in Koojcsse's igloo, old Artarkparu and his family being present. Of course Ijoinq/i in it, and participated in eating the raw, warm-blooded seal, tak- ing it Innuit fashion — that is, disposing of several pounds of raw meat at one sitting. The young seal (which I tasted at supper on the following day) was tender and fine, eating like a spring chicken. Owing to various causes, I had to stay at Oopungnewing for several days, and during that time I occupied myself with writ- ing and making observations. On April oth, Koojesse, with sev- eral others of the natives, went out on a walrus hunt, and in the afternoon I spent some time watching them in tlieir operations. They were about four miles out, walking in Indian file, making their way on drifting, broken ice. Soon after, one of the Innuitsi^ looking at the party, said they had killed a walrus, and the dogs were at once harnessed to the sledge and sent out on the ice-floe, 500 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. to the edge of it, to wait there till the Innuits should ^^et tlie wal- rus cut up. At about ten o'clock at night it was announced that the party was returning; then the cry of the dogs was hoard, and .soon Koojcsse entered, dragging after him a huge cut of walrus. The news he communicated was cheering, lie had struck and secured one, and Annawa another. Five had been struck through the day, though only two had been secured. Ooksin struck one, but his iron "drew;" Kooksmith lost one by the breaking of his " gig." A considerable portion of the next day was consumed in bringing in the meat. The walrus struck by Annawa was of good size, weighing not far from 1500 pounds; that of Ko(>jesse was not so large. The manner of taking the walrus is as follows: The hunter has a peculiar spear, to which is attached a long line made of walrus hide ; this lino is coiled, and hung about his neck ; thus prepared, he hides himself among the broken drifting ice, and awaits the moment for striking his game. The spear is then thrown (as shown in the accompanying engraving), and the hunter at once slips the coil of line off his head, fastens the end to the ice by driving a spear through a loop in it, and waits till the walrus comes to the surface of the water, into which he has plunged on feeling the stroke of the harpoon ; then the animal is quickly dis- patched by the use of a long lance. The recklessness and cool daring of the Innuit is forcibly shown in this operation, for if ho .should fail to free his neck of the- coil at just the right moment, he would inevitably be drawn headlong beneath the ice. At length, on the morning of April 7th, I resumed my trip. Ebierbing had come over with the sledge on the previous day, and I made an exchange with him, taking his, and giving him that belonging to the ship. My company consisted of Koojessc, his wife Tunukderlicn, Kar-nci-nvrj ("Sharkey"), his wife Xoial farng ("Jennie"), and young Henry Smith. We proceeded on the sea-ice, nearly northwest, for Chapel's Point, at the west side of the entrance of Wiswell's Inlet. Our sledge was heavily laden, especially with Iviu (walrus hide) for dog food, and walrus beef for our own eating; but the traveling was good, and we made better progress than I had expected, arriving at the place named at about 4 P.M. ^ Then Sharkey and Koojesse proceeded to build an igloo in tlie regular manner, which may be described thus: They first sound- ed or "prospected" the snow with their seal-spears to find the llAUroO-MNU A WAMIUS. KJLOO nuiLDixo. 505 most suitiihlc Cor tliat purposo. 'I'licii oik« commenced sawing out snow blocks, iiHinj:; a hand-saw, an ini[ilonient now in ;,ni.'at demand among tiie Innuits for this purpose; tho bkjcks having been cut, iVoin thi; space tiie igloo was to occupy, the other Iiniuit, procei:ded to hiy the Ibunihilion tier, whicli consisted of seventeen blocks, each three feet long, eighteen inches wide, and six inchc; thick. Theii connnenced the "spiraling," allowing each tifi- to /'all in, di)me-sha[)('(l, till the wIkjIc was comi^lcted, and tlu; key- stone oi' lilt! donu! or iirch drop|K'd into its jilace, the buildcis be- ing within during the operation. When the igloo was linishcd the two inmiitrf were walled in; then a srpiarc opening was awl at the rear <)(' the dwelling, and through this Smith and T passed some snow bloc^ks which wc. had sawed out. These Sharkey and Koojess(! cliip|)e(l or " minceir' with their snow-kiiives, w'hili! Tu- nukderlicu and demiie trod the fragments into a hard bed ofsiiow, Ibrmiiig tlu! couch or dais of the igloo. This done, the women (piiekly erected on the right and lell the iinvstaiids, and soon had lires bla/ing, and snow melting with which to slake our thirst. TIhmi the usual shrubs, kept lor that purpose, w(!ro evenly spread on the snow of tlu; bed-place; over that was laitl the canvas ol my tent, and over all were spread tiiktoo I'urs, Ibrming the bed. When the work had been thus far advanced, the main door was cut out of the crystal white wall, and tin; walrus meat and other things were passed in. Then both openings we're sealed up, and all within were madt! happy in the enjoyment of comforts that would hardly be dreamed of by those at home. I must lu're mention an incident v liieli shows that the Innuits arc equal to any emergency which may aiise in their own coun- try. For my sui)per 1 had .some pemmiean soup, but, on tasting it, it was too fresh, and we had no .salt. What could we do'/ In a moment that was decideil. Sharkey, on hearing what was wanted, took his knife and cut down into the snow floor of the icloo, in less than a minute eominu; to salt water. This aston- ishcd me, and I asked how it was that salt water had thus got above the main ice. They replied that the great depth of snow on the ice })re.s.sed it down. During that day's trip 1 found that two puppies formed part of our company. Their mother was an excellent sledge-dog of our team. The i)ups were carried in the logs of a pair of fur breech- es, and they rode on the sledge wdien traveling. Every time we made a stop they were taken out of their warm quarters and giv- i .i 506 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. en to the mother for nursing. When we arrived at ment above referred to, Sharkey built up a small the parent dog and her offspring. The Iniiuits take of their young dogs as they do of their children, a; even more. The following day, April 8th, I found that some land dogs were missing. This consecjuently delayc could do was to wait patiently until they were re Oojnmgnewing, to which place they had returned. Sharkey went out after young seals, and came back coat white and like wool. In the evening we ha from a portion of this seal, and never did I eat more It were "a dainty dish to set before a king," But icacy we enjoj^ed was mi/k. Every young seal has stomach from a pint to a quart of its mother's milk, consider this a luxury, either raw or boiled, rnd so took of this milk, eating .some of it first raw, and al of it boiled. It had the taste of cocoanut milk, ai like that of a cow. The next two days, April 9th and 10th, were spei encampment, though on the former day I explored to its northernmost limit. On the morning of the ceeded on our journey. As we neared Peter Fc sledge party of Innuits met us, and it was soon i were mutual friends. They were stopping on a:i it Nou\ arn, and intended to go up the bay ; I therelbi meet them again. We arrived at a place on the i( ster's Point, on the western side of J'eter Force Soun male Ininiits immediately began to erect an igloo. ' en started off, each with dog and hook, to hunt for s^ in live minutes Jeniiiii's loud voice announced that liad captured a young seal. Instantly Koojesse dropped their snow-knife and saw, leaped the walls c erected igloo, and hastened with all sjieed to the \\c and I had preceded them ; but, alter we had all stai bered that we had left our walrus meat and other posed to the dogs; I therefore directed Henry to re out for them. On reaclung the place of capture, we found that had beneath lier feet a young seal alive and kiekii immediately made a line fast to one of its hind fli A SEAL'S IGLOO. 507 lowed the seal to re-enter the igloo where it had been eaught. As this was something new and interesting to me, I intently watched what followed. The seal was perhaps two or three weeks old, and, like all young seals, was white, though not as white as un- tainted snow. While Koojessc kept hold of the line, four or five fathoms long, the seal worked itself hastily back into the igloo, its birthplace, and there made a plunge down the seal-hole into the sea. Koojesse allowed it the whole play of his line, crawling into the igloo, taking the seal-hook with him, and waiting patiently for the parent seal to come up. I was close by him, there being just sufiicicnt room through the opening made when the young- seal was caught fur me to push myself in. There, lying flat down, we both carefully watched. In three or four minutes the young seal returned, popping up its round, shining head, and blowing or pufTmg like a whale, though on a reduced scale, its large eyes glistening like lights from twinkling stars. It came directly to its bed-place where we reclined. As it attempted to crawl up, Koojesse gave it a stroke on the head, signifying "Go away — dive down — show to your mother that you, the darling of her af- iections, are in trouble, and when she comes to your aid I'll hook her too." Tlie two women were now close by ns, each with a seal-dog, and while thus waiting T had a good opportunity for in- specting a seal's igloo. It was a model of those which the Innuits make for themselves, and was completely dome-shaped. It was five feet or so in diameter, and two and a half feet high, with a depth of snow above it of some live feet. The platform of sea- ice was where the parent seal gave birth to its young, and after- ward nursed it. On one side was the seal-hole, filled with sea- water, which was within two inches of the top of the platform. After waiting some time, and finding that the old seal would not show itself, the young one was withdrawn and jilaccd on the snow. Then Koojesse put his foot upon its back, between the fore-arms or fli})pers, and pressed with all his weight, the object being to kill the seal by stopping its breath. Innuits adopt this mode in preference to using knife or spear. It prevents the loss of what is to them the precious portion — the blood. On returning to our encampment, we found that the dogs had made sad havoc with our walrus meat and blubber, and other things in general. However, as it could not now be helped, we put up with it. Our supper that night was blessed cold water, chunks of cold pemmican, and raw frozen walrus meat. 508 ARCTIC RESEAIICII EXPEDITION. Tlio following day, April 12th, while Sharkey and Koojesse were engaged in the locality oF my third encampment hunting young seal, 1 started, accompanied by my attendant, Henry Smith, to explore another bay which appeared to run up some distance beyond Peter Force Sound. I expected to be able to go and re- turn in one day, and therefore made no preparations beyond tak- ing half a pound of pemmican and a quarter of a pound of Bor- den's meat-biscuit, intended for our lunch. As I wished to keep a careful account of the distance traveled, I took the line used by me when on the Greenland coast, near Ilolsteinborg, in drawing out of the great deep many a cod and halibut, and measured off with tape-line seventy -five feet; my log then consisted of a cold chisel used by me in cutting out my rock pemmican. It should be said, however, that previous to this time, and on all subsequent occasions when my whole company were with nic. and all our provision was to be carried, no one could ride on the sknlge, the dogs having diflieulty even in dragging their necessary load. Consequently, at such times, all my measurements between my astronomically -determined points had to ])c. made by pacing — a tolerably accurate, but, withal, a" very tiresome method of work- ing. I found many ajiparent heads to the bay during my passage* up, ani at each turn it seemed as if we had reached the termina- tion ; but, ou making the several points of land, others were found beyond. After some hours of travel the dogs became very tired, the snow allowing them to sink to their bodies at every step. It was growing late; a snow-storm was coming on; to return was im- possible; we therefore set about making ourselves as comforta- ble as circumstances would allow. "We had no snow-knife, but an impromptu igloo was {)launed which we built of the sledge and snow, getting out the blocks of the latter in the best way possible, that is to sav, with a broken sledge-bi'am. "When the igloo was finished, and before the door was scaled up, we took in the dogs, and were soon really comfortable. The storm came down fearful!}', but we were well j)rotcctcd ; the beat- ing snow sought an entrance, but could find none. Fortunately, we had saved a jiiecc of the jiemmican from our lunch, and this served to give us just a mouthful for sup})er; some fi'agmcnts of the meat-biscuit also remained; and after this frugal repast and some pipes of tobacco, we retired to our snow bed. I had one WHITE MAN'S IGLOO.— THE STOKJI. 509 dog for my feet-warmer, another for my pillow, while a third was arched at my back, llcnry was also comfortably provided for, My diary for that day, written iu the igloo of a white man's in- vention, concludes ns follows : "Now within a few minutes of midnight. Ilark! a singular noise strikes the ear. Perhaps it is a polar bear! We listen. Aoraiu the same alarininsr noise. Another sound, and wc determ- ine its source. It is the snoring of one of the dogs! So good- night to all the sleeping world. Heaven bless all those who need it; none needs it more than myself." The next moniing, April 13th, I arose from my snowy couch at live o'clock, knocked my head against the snow door, made my way over its ruins on all-fours, then stood erect and looked around. The heavens seemed to indicate the dawn of a beautiful day. I called up Henry, and soon the dogs were harnessed, when wc ])roceeded toward the head of this narrow bay — Newton's Fiord,"'^'as I named it — which wc reached at 7 A.^f. The termi- nation I found to consist of a broken narrow plain, walled by a line of mountains on either side. Before wii reached this spot the snow commenced falling, though the lull was accompanied by no wind, and the weather was very thick. Soon after seven wc started on our return jour- ney to our encampment, and at nine o'clock we were abreast of the ])lacc where wc had passed the previous night. At that time the wind was freshening, and it was snowing hard. Our passage thence to the place of our encampment was very diflicult. Not only had we to encounter a severe northwest gale, charged with cold at 32° below the fi'cczing-point, accompanied by drift-snow lining the air so thickly that often no objects at three fathoms' dis- tance could be seen, but the dogs became perfectly exhausted from being overworked, and from going long without food. On mak- ing inquiries of Henry Smith, I learned that Sharkey and Koojcssc had been feeding their own dogs and neglecting my "Greenland- er.s," which were now just on the point f giving out. Two of them were so knocked up before reachi.ig home that they could not pull a pound; one was so fatigued that he repeatedly fell down. I was obliged to lead the way for several miles by the compass, it being impossible to sec the land, though the fiord was only from half a mile to two miles wide. * NmiiDil nftcr 0. E. Nowtnn, M.D., of riiuiiinati, Ohio. Tlic terniiTialioii of Newton's Fioi-il is in hit. 03° l.'2' N., long. WP 0." AV. 510 AUCTIC KESEARCH EXPEDITION. THE UETUK.N FKO.M NKWTO.Ntl FlUlUI. During the afternoon the sun shone down tlirougli the storm that seemed only hugging the earth. For the hist nine miles whieh I made along by the west side of the fiord and Peter Force Sound, the mountains would every few moments show a shadctl contour — a ghost-like faiiitness — by which I was enabled to make my course without the compass. When within two miles of the igloos I came upon pur sledge-tracks of the day before, and these I followed carefully while they were visible; but, with all my care, the track was soon lost ; and as the land was again closed from view, wc should have been in grievous difficulty had not the compass guided me. The risk was indeed great; for in such a storm we might easily have gone out to sea, or the ice of the bay on which wc were traveling might have broken up and car- ried us away. Providentiall}', wc reached the encampment — my fifth, as 1 called it, whieh was the same as the third— at 5 10 P.M., find- ing Sharkey on the look-out, anxiously awaiting us, while Koo- jesse was out in search of me. The Imuiits, all through the pi'c- vious night, had kept my lantern suspended to a polo by the igloo as a beacon light. Hot sup{)ers were quickly prepared for us by the women, and wc soon retired to rest. FIGHTING THE HUNGliY DOGS. 511 criAPTER xxxnr. Continue the Journpy up'FrohisIior Ray. — Arrive at Beauty Bay. — The Sleclffc at- taekecl by hungry Dogs. — Meeting uith Friends. — Bcrenvemcnt of old Allokeo and his Wife. — Death of Tweroong. — Ilcart-ronding l'artieiiiar.s. —A Xoiil-fea.'st. — A sudden Excitement. — Strange Visit of an Augeko — Parting with Allokeo. — Visit to the Grimieli Ghu'ier. — Ascent by Pohir Bear Tracks. — A Sea of Ice. — An exciting Journey back. DuuiXG the day, April 1-itli, 1S02, 1 rcinaincd quiet in the ig- loo, engaged in writing and workiiig up observations. On the loth I made a trip up the cast arm of Peter Force Sound ; and on the 16th wc left the fifth (same as third) encampment, and pro- ceeded on \\\) Frobishcr Bay. Wc made but slow progress on ac- count of sealing, there being a necessity for obtainuig all the food ' that could be found. Six of us, besides the dog.s, required a large quantity. After journeying seven miles, we made our next en- campment on the ice a few paces from a jwint of land forming the west capo of a pretty little bay, which, on the boat-voyage in the previous fall, I had called Beauty Vmy. Tliat night we had a different kind of dwelling from the one ordinarily occupied by us. The weather was now occasionally warm enough to admit of half igloo and half tuple, which was made by omitting the dotne, and placing tent-poles, covered with canvas, on the snow walls. An exciting scene occurred while the igloo wall was being erected. Koojesse and Sharkey were at work on tlic building, while Henry and I removed every thing from the sledge. We being at some little distance, the dogs suddenly sprung in a pack upon the sledge, and eacli snatched a piece of the meat and blub- ber still remaining upon it. With a club in my hand and a seal- spear in Henry's, w^c belabored them lustily, but they were so hungry that it really seemed as if they cared nothing for blows. As a piece of meat was rescued from the jaws of one, another, and perhaps two others, as quickly had it. Blow followed blow ; dogs flew this way and that, all acting like devils, determined to conquer or die in their devouring work. It was quite five min- utes before the battle was through, and not then till Koojesse 512 ARCTIC UESKARCn EXPEDITION. WK MUST COSQUUl oil STAliVK. leaped the walls of tlic igloo and came to our assistance. During tills vieleo, Ilenrj unfortunatf^ly broke the ^vood portion of Koo- Jesse's oo-nar (seal-spear), and this enraged the Iiniuit to a degree not easily to be described, for no instrument is constructed by the natives with more care than this. The following day, April 17th, I made an exploring trip up Beauty Bay, and on my return found that our igloo had fallen in. The sun was now becoming so powei'ful that the upper tier of the snow wall melted, and brought down the top and poles npon the two women who were within, and were consequently over- whelmed in the ruins. Next morning, April 18th, at 9 A.M., wc again started, taking a course direct for Gabriel's Island of Frobi.sher, in the main bay. called by the Innuits Ki-ld-tulc-ju-a. Our progress was slow, ow- ing to the heavy load and the poor condition of the dogs; and at noon, symptoms of a gale coming on, it was deemed advisable to make for shelter. Before we could obtain it, the gale had burst upon us, fdling the air with the " white dust" of the country. Presently we saw an Innuit in the distance approaching, and, aft- SAD DEATH OF TWEKOONG. 513 er wiudiiig in and out among numerous small islands, we met him. It proved to be Ninguarping, son of Kokcrjabin, out seal- hunting. He said there were other Innuits not far off, among them Miner and Kooperneung, with their families, and we quick- ly made toward them. I was glad t learn that these Innuits were so near; for I thought I would o my dogs and sledge, and run up from my next encampmeii to see my good friend Tweroong. I should have been sadly disappointed had I done so, as will soon appear. Ninguarping then accompanied us to the spot selv_;eted for our encampment, and assisted in building an igloo. Soon a sledge of Innuits, with a team of fourteen dogs, came bounding wildly toward us. They were quickly alongside, proving to be our friends "Jack" and " Bill," on their way to an island not far off for a load of walrus beef which was deposited there. They invited us to go to their village. This we did, aban- doning our half-completed igloo. We arrived about 4 P.M., and found a village of five igloos, all inhabited by Innuit families, composed of my old friends and ac- quaintances. Old Too-loo-lca-ah was one of the first whom I saw, and he invited mc to his capacious igloo, where his wife,Koo-muk, quickly gave me water to drink and food to cat, the latter being portions of frozen walrus entrails. To say that I enjoyed this food would only be to repeat what I have said before, though, no doubt, many will feel surprised at my being able to eat, as I so frequently did, raw meat, contents of tuktoo paunch, entrails of seals and walrus, whale skin and krang, besides drinking train-oil and blood. In the previous December, when on m}' trip to Jones's Cape after skins, I saw Toolookaah and his wife, and was both sur- prised and gratified to learn that she had an infant; it was a girl of only two weeks, and had been named Ek-lcer-hon. Toolooka- ah was at this time, as I thought, sixty years old, and his wife not less than fifty-five yeara. When I now saw the parents again on this journey of which I am writing, I inquired for the child, and received the mournfully sad reply, ^^Tuk-a-ivoke,^^ meaning it is dead. I should add to this record the news I received at the same time of the death of my never-to-be-forgotten friend Tweroong. Oo-soo-kar-lo, son of old Petato, told mc that she had died several weeks before. Some days later I obtained the details of her death, and they were truly heart-rending. When her husband, K K 514 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXrEDITION. "Miner," and her son, "Charley," removed from Oopungncwing a few weeks before this time, Twcroong was unable to walk, and had to be carried on a sledge. After going a few miles up Fro- bisher Bay, an igloo was built for her, when she was placed m it. without any food, and with no means of making a fire-light, and then abandoned to die alone. A few days after some Innuits visited the igloo and found her dead. The next day, Ai)ril li)tli, in the afternoon, T received an invi- tation from old Petato to come into her igloo and partake of a seal-feast. Taking Henry Smith along with me, I accompanied Oosookarlo to the place indicated. Wo found Petato seated on her dais, with an immense stone pot hanging over the full blazing ikkumer; the pot was filled with .smoking-hot seal and seal soup; Sharkey, Kopeo, his wife and infant, and several young Innuits, were there, awaiting the "good time coming." Petato, the pre- siding genius, took out a piece of the seal with her hands and gave it to me, doing the same by the others. Before I had hall' finished mine, the old lady handed me another and a larger piece; but, without difficulty, I did ample justice to all of it. Henry de- clared he never partook of a meal he relished more. The second course was seal soup, of which Petato gave me a huge bowl full ; this is the nectar of a seal-feast. After I was supplied, another bowl, of a capacity equivalent to four quarts, was placed on the floor for the dog to wash with his pliant tongue; when he had lapped it clean, outside as well as within, it was filled with the luscious soup, which the Innuits at once disposed of, taking turns at the bowl. Later in the evening, as I was seated in my own igloo sur- rounded by iny company, I heard a loud Innnit shout just out- side. As quick as thought, Koojesse, Sharkey, Tunukderlien, and Jennie sprang for the long knives lying around, and hid them wherever they could find places. My first thought was that a company of warlike Innuits were upon us, and I asked Koojesse the meaning of all this. He replied, "Angeko! angcko!" Im- mediately there came Crawling into the low entrance to the igloo an Innuit with long hair completely covering his face and eyes. He remained on his knees on the floor of the igloo, feeling round like a blind man at each side of the entrance, back of the fire- light, the place where meat is usually kept, and where knives ma}' generally be found. Not finding any, the angeko slowly withdrew. I asked Koojesse what would have been the conse- LIVING ON DOG FOOD. 515 qucnce if the nngcko liad found a knifo; he replied that he — the augcko — would have stabbed hiniseli' in the breast. On April 22d wo broke up our cncanipiucnt, all the Innuits, with the exception of Toolookaah's family, being about removing up Frobishcr Bay. Two families, including Potato, Kopco, Oo- Hookarlo, with the wives and children of the two men, were to go with mc one day's journey at least. Old Toolookaah, who was to remain behind, woie a sorrowful face on account of my dciDarturc. I find in my diary the following record: "This no- ble, frccdicarted Innuit loves me, I do believe ; I know that I love him. AVe have now been acquainted more than a year; have voyaged together, have shared perils of storms and the glory of sunshine, have feasted together, slept beneath the same tuple, have been, as it were, father and son. Successful be his sealing, his tuktoo hunts, and his conflicts with the polar bear — the lion of the North ; and, at last, peace and glory to his noble soul. When all were ready for a start this morning, this old Innuit ac- companied mc from the island some distance on the ice. At last we locked hands, and, with prolonged " terbouetics," tears start- ing in his eyes and rolling down his iron-ribbed face, we parted, probably never to meet again on earth." Throughout our day's journey there was a continuous gale, with snow-drift closing all from our view ; but wo finally reached our next cncampmon.:, on a small island above Kikitukjua, at 4 30 P.M., having gone neaily nine miles. The following day we parted with Potato and my other Innuit friends, and proceeded some live or six miles direct toward Kin- gaitc coast, making our ninth enoampmont* on the main ice clear of land. We were obliged to remain here encamped for ten days, the desperate struggle being to get enough to sustain life. My hunt- ers and scalers, Sharkey and Koojesse, went down every fliir day a distance of five miles to the open water, where were white whales, seals, and ducks in abundance, but they were then all so shy that it was impossible to api)roach them within killing dis- tance. That they might be successful was our enrnest wish, for we were living mostly on dog food — Tcoio — that is, walrus hide with hair on. Besides, we had no oil for the lamp, and without the lamp we were unable to obtain fresh water. * The ninth encampment was in Int. (52° .')!' N., long. G6° 40' W., due east of Gabriel's Island, and niidwav of it and Kiugaiie coast. (Sec Chart.) 616 ARCTIC HESKAHCII KXI'ICDITIUX. One day tlicy came borne successful, liaviug cauglit a seal, the first of the season, and no happier beings could exist than we were for the time at the feast of raw seal that followed. In the even- ing of the next day, April 28th, Koojessc and Sharkey drove up with two seals, one of about 20U pounds' weight, and the other weighing 100 pounds. This was success indeed, and it enabled them to feed the dogs as well as ourselves. By this time the weather had become so warm that we could not keep our igloo dry, and it was resolved to erect a tunic or tent. This fmislicd, we moved into it; and ii few minutes after we had vacated our old home, down fell the igloo a mass of ruins. On May 1st, 18(52, 1 stalled from this encampment on a trip to Kingaite coast. While Henry was engaged harnessing U[) tlio dogs, I put together my instruments, a little bag of roek pemnii- can, and some Borden meat-biscuit, of which I had saved merelv a trille for use on excursions of this kind. Sharkey, with sledge and dogs, was ready, and, after a good hot breakfast, we started, at 7 -10 A.M., for the point I had selected — near the rresident's Seat — viz., that where an ascent could j)robably be made of the glacier which I had seen on my voyage up the bay the iirevious fall. My course across the bay to Kingaite coast was south 4° east. true. The number of dogs in the team was ten, but, as they were in poor condition, wo made but three and a half to four and a half miles per hour. In crossing the bay we found abundance of huni- mocky ice, and the snow-wreaths were numerous, abrupt, and high. A few minutes before noon we drew into a small bay that extended on toward the jioint I sought to reach. With great so- licitude, I watched that part of the heavens in which the sun was. but, to my deep regret, the thick clouds were as a veil between my C3'es and it. I had my instruments in readiness in ease the sun should show itself for a few moments. If I could have got two solar observations, keeping correct account of the time elaps- ing between, by which to obtain accurately the " hour angle," i .should have done so, for thus T could have determined my actual latitude; but the clouds were too thick for the sun's rays to pen- etrate them. I kept, however, a careful account of my course and of the distance made, by which I determined the latitude of Kingaite coast where I struck it. As the dogs turned up the narrow bay leading to the jioint of land we were making, I was delighted to see the face of an abut- VISIT TO GUINNKLL GLACIEll. 519 ting glacier, which fully proved the truth of my anticipations that * there were iceberg discliarges on Kingaito side. At noon our progress was arrested by the glacier, which seemed to smile a de- fiance — " thus far, and no farther." Here, by this crystal wall, I stood, i.i admiration and awe be- holding its beauty and grandeur. My Innuit companion seemed satisfied and gratified in witnessing the cfl'ect it had upon me.. I turned and took a look seaward. A few degrees of opening be- tween the' points of land leading into the harbor in which we were gave a view bounded only by the sea horizon. My quickened thoughts almost made mo exclaim, "Tell us, time-aged crystal mount, have you locked in your mirror chambers any images of white man's ships, that sailed up these waters near three centuries ago?" This train of funey-painting was soon dissipated by the substantial reality of a lunch on cold rock pemmican and gold- dust (Borden's pulverized meat-biscuit), washed down with chips from the glacier, after which we were prepared for an attempt to scale the ice-mountain. This could be done only by ascend- ing one of the rock ridges. flanking the abutting arm of the glacier, and thence striking up its steep side. For the first quarter of a mile it was very abrupt, and difficult to climb. The most laborious and dangerous part of the ascent was accomplished by following the footsteps of a polar bear. My " illustrious predecessor" had evidently ascended the glacier some time previous, just after a fresh full of snow, impacting it by his great weight into such hard steps that the gales had no effect in destroying them. These polar-bear steps made it feasible for us to ascend where wc did. After the first quarter of a mile the in- clination of the glacier was gradual, then for a quarter oi mile fartlier it became greater, but it did not so continue. Eacli ide of this arm of the glacier was walled in by mountains, the east side by the group I called the President's Seat. On making two miles — S. 1G° E., true — we arrived where the glacier opens to a sea of ice. At this time and point the gla- cier was covered with snow, witli a cropping out here and there of the clear crystal blue ice, giving relief to the view of an appar- ently illimitable sea of white around. My Innuit companion, be- ing well experienced in all the coast from Karmowong, a place on the north side of Hudson's Straits, to Resolution Islau'i and all about Frobishcr Bay, said that this great glacier extended far, far below where we then were, and also continued on northwest 520 AllCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. a great way, reaching over also nearly to Hudson's Straits, From the information I bad previously gained, and the data furnished ' me by my Innuit companion, I estimated the Grinnell glacier to be luily 100 miles long. At various points on the north side of Frobisher Bay, between Bear Sound and the Countess of War- wick's Sound, I made obsevvatioiis by sextant, by which I determ- ined that over fifty miles of the glacier was iv view from and southeast of the President's Seat. A few miles above that point the glacier recedes from the coast, and is lost to view by the Ev- erett chain* of mountains ; and, as Sharkey said, the ou-u-e-ioo (ice that never melts) extends^on wes-se-too-ad-loo (for, very far off). He added that there were places along the coast below what I called the President's Seat where this great glacier discharges it- self into the sea, some of it large iccbei'gs. From the sea of ice down to the point where the abutting gla- cier arrested my advance with sledge and dogs, the iee-ri\er or arm of the glacier was quite uniform in its rounding up, present- ing the appearance — though in a frozen state — of a rniglity rush- ing torrent. The height of the discharging face of the glacier was 100 feet above the sea. Without doubt, the best time of the year to travel over glacier mountains is just before the snows have begun to melt. The winter snows are then well impacted on the glacier surfoce, and all the dangerous cracks and water-ditches are filled up. Storms and gales do good work with snow-flakes once within their fin- gers. Grinnell Glacier,f *a limited portion of which was visited, would, in three and a half or four months' time, present quite a diflerent appearance. Now it was robed in white ; then, below the line of eternal snow, it would be naked, clear, bright, flashing- cerulean blue meeting the eye of the observer. This contrast 1 have seen. When on my boat-voyage up the bay in the previ- ous fall, this great glacier of Kingaite heaved heavenward its hoary head, supported by a body of crystal blue: on my return the same was covered with its winter dress. Before the cold weather sets in, all the crevices in the glacier are charged with wa- ter, which, congealing, is caused to expand ; and the ice explodes with a sound like loud thunder, rending the mountains and shoot- ing off icebergs and smaller fragments at the various points where the glacier has its arms reaching down to the sea. * Nnnied after Eilwnril Everett. For location of "Everett Chain," sec Clinrt. + Tliis great glacier I named ^'^lox Henry Grinnell. Its height, in the vicinity of President's Seat, is 3500 feet. DANGEROUS TRAVELING. 521 After some time spent on the glacier, of which my view was not so extensive or protracted as it would have been but for the clouds that capped the heights where we were, my companion and myself returned to the sledge. I then walked to the shore and obtained a few geological specimens, and we started on our way back to the ninth encampment. Two or three miles from the glacier we came to a small island. I took several bearings of distant objects and sextant angles for elevation of the mountain heights; but the wind began to freshen almost to a gale, and caused considerable risk in crossing the bay. There was a prob- ability of the floe cracking off' and drifting us to seaward; the open water was within a mile of our course, and the floe, giving way, would have been swept rapidly to the southeast, ^[y driver was constantly urging the dogs to their greatest speed while mak- ing passage over the most dangerous part of the way. Fortu- nately no mishap occurred, and we arrived at the tuple in the eveninrr. MY 8LED0E-LUU, LINK A^D UEEL. 522 AKCTIC UESEAUCll EXrKDlTION. CHAPTRE XXXIV. Inniiit Food. — Pictiire of iiDinncv-party. — Rubbit-charminf;, — Proposed flyiiifiTiip. — Freaks of Jennie. — Iler Foot-race after tlie Sledge. — Feminine Coquetry. — Sharkey's Despair. — Ciiange of Plans. — Koojcssc'.s Ugliness — Final Adjustment of Plan. — Departure on flying Trij). — An Ujiset. — Wolves. — Cliase of u Bear and Cub. — Capture of the latter. — Night Traveling. — lleturn to Place of Starting. — Set out for the Ship. — Arrive on Board. Ox leaving our ninth encampment on Saturday, iNLay 3d, 1862. wc proceeded toward some islands nearly due east of us, and, alt- er a journey often miles, came to M'Lean Island,* where we found two igloos occupied by the Innuits Koo-kin and "Bill," with their families. Wo were luxspitably received, and made our tenth encampmeiitf there. I was now living wholly on Innuit food, to which I had be- come so accustomed as to eat it without difliculty. Were I to mention in detail what took place, and what was eaten at our meals, it would doubtless appear disgusting to most of my read- ers ; but there is no alternative in the matter of eating with In- nuits. One has to make up his mind, if he would live among that people, to submit to their customs, and to be entirely one of them. AVhen a white man for the first time enters one of their tuples or igloos, he is nau,>->.' N., long. WP 26' W. CIIAKMING RABBITS. 02^ fluid, as if made b}' boiling down the dirty scrapings of a butch- er's stall. lie would see men, women, and childreu — my humble self included — engaged in devouring the contents of that kettle, and he would pity the human beings who could be reduced to such necessity as to eat the horrid stuff. The dishes out of which the soup is taken- would turn his stomach, especially when he should see dogs wash them out with their long ])liant tongues previous to our using them. But I will not multiply particulars. Sliarkey this day saw a rabbit when out on the island hunting partridges, but could not get a shot at it. If "Jennie," or any other female songster, had been with him, he would probably have secured it. Innuits, when they go after rabbits, generally have such a vocalist with them. While she sings ^' channiDnh' '' the sportsman is enabled to have a ftiir shot. The rabbit deligiits in listening to the music of a female Innuit voice, and will stop, sit up, and be shot under its charms. Tiio scarcity of provisions, combined with the troubles I en- countered with the evil-disposed Innuits, Koojessc and Jennie, had been so great, that I had determined to abandon my journey farther up tlie bay, and return at once to the Countess of War- wick's Sound; but we now found ourselves so abundantly sup- plied that I concluded to take Sharkey, and, leaving the rest of my company at the place of the tenth encamj)ment, to make a flying trip up the bay with sledge and dogs. Sharkey at first cheerfully assented to my jtropositicMi, but on May Gth he signi- fied to me his desire to take Jennie with him. I declined to ac- cede to this request, and he acquiesced in my decision, but Jennie flew into a rage. She [lut on her kodlins and dodged out of the igloo, attempting to run away; Sharkey darted after her, and in about an hour tiiey returned, on apparently amicable terms. The next morning, May 7th, I went on with my })reparations for departure; the movements of Jennie showed j)lainly that she intended to go. W^hen the sledge was nearly loaded, I went to Koojessc and asked him if Jennie was really going with us; he answered aflirmatively, and I tlierefore called Sliarkey into the igloo and talked with him. He acted nobly, telling Jennie that slie must remain with Koojessc and Tunukderlien till our return. He had previously bound her jacket and tuktoo bed upon the sledge, but at once threw them ofi', though I could see that he had a mountain of trouble within. After nuich delay we started. When we were out on the sea-ice we kept a sharp watch of 52-lr ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Jennie's movements. She was out on tlic rocks, witli lier head turned to a blulf, and bellowing like an angeko while engaged in some of his ineautations. In about half an hour she was discov- ered following us ; Sharkey closely examined her movements through the glass, and declared that she was indeed after us, and that she would travel all day and all night till she reached us. I at once decided to await her coming up, for my heart was moved for the poor fellow, who so fondly loved her, though she was un- woi'tliy of his aflection. Wlieu we paused for her to come up, Sharkey took the water- bag and the tin cup, and set out for an island at our left, distant a quarter of a mile, for water. His course was taken so that he in- tercepted Jeiniie when he was returning with his water to the sledge. She, however, paid no attention to him, but kept on, turn- ing neither to the right hand nor to the left. Sharkey called to her, but she turned not, still continuing her rapid gait, and proud- ly striking into her open hand a loose mitten she carried in the other. Sharkey quickened his pace to catch uj) with her, repeat- edly calling to her, but she walked stoically on. At length he overtook her, and tried to arrest her in her course. She threw him aside as if he were a viper, and walked on. Then Sharkey once more approached, and threw his arm around her caressingly. Slie gave no heed. Finall}', in despair, he gave up, stooped down, buried his face in his hands, and poured out his weeping soul in a flood of tears. Then, rising up, he swung his arms about, and gave vent to his feelings in loud and broken cries, returning to the sledge, while the stubborn idol of his alleetions, with ajtparent indinerenee, pursued her way. I addressed him sympathizingly, my heart overflowing with love for my wounded friend, lie pointed to his wife, who still trudged on, crying "Jennie! Jennie!'' putting his hand on his heart and weeping. Under the cireunistanees, 1 decided to return to our encampment. As soon as wo reached it, Sharkey started out with the dog.s, ostensibly for the purpose of sealing. I knew, however, tliat his pur])ose was to go in ))ursuit of his wife. Some hours later he returned with Jennie, both apparently contented. I now at first thought I might as well give up this trip, and commence my return down the bay. Then I determined to U\kc Henry as my dog-driver, and proceed to cxjdore the bay alluded to on page 383, some fifty miles to the N. W. by W. of our tenth encampment. I had before believed that Koojesse was at the bot- A. H. WARD'S INLET. 525 torn of Jennie's evil actions, and I now became thoroughly con- vinced of the fact; for, vrhen he heard of my latest plan, he seem- ed determined to put as many blocks in my way as possible, lie consented, for a consideration, to let mc have the use of his dogs, but refused to allow me to take my own tupic. Then I hinted at returning at once to the ship ; but this did not suit him ; he want- ed to stop where we were several days; and he declared that, if be was compelled to start the next day, the distance made would be "smallcy." At last I offered him my rifle, which he wanted very much, if he would accompany me and do as he should on the trip I wished to make. His whole conduct changed immedi- ately from that of a bitter enemy to that of a cheerful friend. The arrangement was made that Koojesse and Sharkey were to go, while Jennie and Tunukderlien were to remain with Ilcnry, the Tnnuits Kookin and " Bill" having agreed with me to supply them with food. Afy conviction that Koojesse was the instigator of Jennie's freaks prior to this received confirmation from the per- fect acquiescence of the wo^an in this plan after hearing a few words from him. So, after much trouble, with Koojesse and Sharkey as my com- panions for the trip, I again started at 9 A.M. of the 8th of May. Our progress on the firm ice was fair, our course northerly and westerly. In and out among numerous islands, and with a few stoppages to take bearings and make observations, we passed on for several miles, seeing places on the main land familiar to me, and finally, after twelve hours' travel, making a distance of twenty- three miles, encamped on Field's Island,* at the entrance of Wad- dell Bay. The following day, May 9th, we were at the entrance to the ba}-^ — A. II. Ward's Inlet,t as I named it — which I had so long desired to explore ; but, on the next, owing to bad weather and soft snow, we could proceed only a short distance. On the 11th, however, we made rapid progress, passing on the cast side of a long island, the scenery magnificent, and, going through a place where the mountains almost meet, and which I call "The Narrows," finally arriving at the head of this truly romantic and beautiful inlet at about 2 P.M. Just before passing up through the Narrows, wc saw that the ice ahead was completely riddled with seal-holes, and that seals iu immense numbers were lying by them basking. Sharkey laid * Named after Dudley Field, of New York City. t Named after Aukusius Il.Wiivd, of New York City. 526 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. TKIUIINATIDN OK WAUDS IM.KT— TUB NAKROW8 AM) ANN MAlilA I'uUT. himself down, and proceeded witli bis gun to make the usual In- nuit approaches, as already described, toward a place where some seals were close together. At last be shot one, having been one hour and twenty-five minutes crawling up to within six fathoms of his prey. A raw and blood-warm seal-feast immediately fol- lowed, for this was the first thing secured for four days. Never did I enjoy any thing with a better relish. On the right of the extreme termination there is a bold mount- ain, with a ravine between it and the opposite side, which is grad- ually sloping. The bay or harbor between the Narrows and the termination of the inlet is indeed magnificent. After .staying here as long as my time would permit, and having determined that no '■'■straiC or passage exists in this direction, I started on my return, and soon again arrived at the Narrows. Here the view below was one of the most interesting I had beheld since arriving North. From the Narrows, which is from one sixth to one third of a mile wide, to the termination of this arm of Ward's Inlet, is a distance of four miles. This beautiful sheet of water I have named Ann Maria Port.'^' As we made our way through the Narrows on our return, the view, on looking down the inlet, was truly magnifi- cent. The long line of black, jagged, buttress-like mountains on either side of the pure white pathway before us presented a scene that I shall not soon forget. As we returned down this inlet, going at a .slower rate than * Nnmed nfter tlic wife of Augustus II. Wnnl. The head or tcnniuutiou is iu lat. Oa° 44' N., long. 07= 48' W. Vide. Clmrt. A BREAK-DOWN. 527 usual, a seal was seen ahead. In an instant the clogs, which were very hungry, bounded ofT at a rate of not less than twelve miles an hour. The seal, frightened, made a plunge down into its hole ; the dogs, flying onward so furiously, passed it, but the wind, carrying the smell of the seal to their noses, made them turn sharply round in a second. The consequence was that the sledge- runner caught in the snow-crust, and sent me heels over head oft" the sledge, to which my Innuit companions clung with all their might. The runners of this sledge were twelve feet long, and the left one was split from stem to stern ; but, though this was a serious disaster, yet no considerable regret was manifested on the part of the natives. Koojesse and Sharkey immediately set to work with their scal"Sj)ears, and succeeded in mortising three holes in the lower half of the runner in the short space of time that it took me to write the pencil notes recording the inci- dent. It was not long before the runner was strapped together, ^nd we were again on our way down on the western side of the large island which we passed in the morning, I hoping not to see another seal that day. It was 10 P.^[. when we arrived at the south end of the Kikitukjua — Augustus Island, as I called it — and made our fourteenth encampment. We had traveled forty miles that day aftn* leaving the thirteenth encampment, which was on a small islaiul not far from the east side of Augustus Isl- and. "\Yo slept soundly, though our couch was the bare rock. On the morning of the 12th, when we awoke, we found ourselves beneath a snow-drift — that is to say, some eight or ten inches of snow had fallen during the night, giving us a clean, warm cover- let. The weather being unpropitious for traveling, we remained at the same place during the day. The following day, May 18th, at 10 A.M., we resumed our journey, passing along down by the coast of Becher Peninsula,* on the west side of the inlet, directing our course toward Mary's Island, the place of the twentieth encamp- ment of my boat expedition the previous fall. We had not pro- ceeded far on our way when a smart breeze from the northwest sprung up, and before wc had made half the distance to Mary's Island it increased to a gale, accompanied with pelting drift. I know not that I ever experienced more disagreeable traveling than on this occasion. The snow flew furiously, eddying around our heads, and di'opping down into our laps as we sat upon the * The land betwoon Want's Inlet nntl tlie mnin Bay of Froliishcr 1 thus named after Captain A. B. Bcclior, K.N., of London, England. See Ciiart. 528 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. sledge with our backs to the gfile. The sun was out with tliaw- ing heat, melting the snows in our front, wetting our furs, while the temperature at our backs was 14° below the freezing mark. When we reached the point at the west side of the entrance to Ward's Inlet at 8 A.M., we were compelled to stop and go into camp. My notes, written \ipon the spot, read, "Stop on account, of the driving gale and drift. Sharkey proceeds to make an igloo. Koojesse is sick — knocked up completely, while I am in perfect health." As I have said, the sun was out, notwithstanding the flying drift ; therefore I proceeded to occupy myself as usual in making observations for time, and taking a round of angles, etc. I continue extracts from my rough and ready note-book of same date (^^ay 13th) : " The gale abated 2 P.M., yet snow ilying thick over toward Kingaite. Thought of starting, but, desirous of having good and extensive views when I cross the Bay of Fro* bisher to Kingaite side, I decided to hold over till to-morrow. It will take two days' good weather to get back to the place of tenth encampment — perhaps three. Koojesse and Sharkey gathered from the mountain's side a skin jacket full of Northern wood (dwarf shrub), with which we cooked a soup. The dogs have no food. To supply tliem and ourselves, shall have to let the Innu- its seal to-morrow. Gave Koojesse pills to-night; he is badly off. " Wabicsda?/, May l-ith. Up at 2 A.M. Wo cooked our break- fast of tuktoo and seal. Used the straw (dwarf shrub) of oui- beds for fuel. This morning, as a matter of trial of the pluck of my companions, I proposed to continue up to the head of Frobish- er Bay. The Innuits expressed a willingness to go. I have no idea of doing this, but now intend to cross Frobisher Bay to-day from Noo-ook-too-ad-loo, a small island close by llae's Point, di- rect to Kingaite, and thence j^ass down by the coast to near where I had my ninth encampment, and then recross the bay to place of tenth encampment. The weather is thick this morning, but there is a bright streak along the horizon in the cast. The dogs are very hungry. Last night they ate up the whip-lash, which was thirty feet long. They are voracious. I witnessed a sight some days since of a hungry dog swallowing down a piece oi kow (walrus hide and blubber) one inch and a half square and six feet long in seven seconds I The act I timed by chronome- ter." CROSSING FROBISHER BAY. 529 At 5 A.M. we left tbe place of sixteenth cncnmpment, directino' our course to the westward, and in two hours arrived at the island Noo-ook-too-ad-loo, which Sharkey and myself ascended. Ilere we saw some partridges and many rabbit tracks. One of the for- mer Sharkey shot. While on this island I took a round of an- gles, sighting various important points necessary toward com- pleting my chart of the bay. Thence we departed at 9 A.^I., striking nearly due west to cross the Bay of Frobishcr. We •found the ice very rough, and consequently our progress was slow. A few minutes before twelve, meridian, as we were about to enter among the numerous islands that lie across the bay, be- ginning at " Frobishcr's Farthest," we stopped, when I proceed- ed to make observations for latitude, solar bearings, etc. When I Ibund my position was such that various capes, promontories, islands, and inlets that I had visited were in sight, and knowing I could then better determine their relative geographical posi- tion, I was delighted, and especially so when I had the President's Seat dancing and circling round in the mirror of my sextant, till it finally rested on the mountain heights of Frobishcr's Far- thest, on the exact spot where I had made astronomical obser- vations on the 22d of August, ISGl, the previous year. Thence we proceeded among many islands, and came to a channel where we found a space of open water abounding in ducks and oth- er aquatic birds, and seals. Ilcre the tide was rushing furious- ly through like a mill-race, and this prevented us from securing more than half of our game, for as the ducks and seals were shot ihcy were liable to be carried rapidly away beneath the ice. Sharkey, however, shot and secured one seal which weighed about three hundred pounds, and also killed several brace of ducks. While the hunters were engaged at this work I took my in- struments and went upon the hill of an island to have a look around and to triangulate. When at the summit and quietly taking a survey, I heard a deep tiger-like growl. I listened, and glanced quickly in the direction whence it came. I saw nothing, and soon raised my sextant to my eye, when another and another growl assailed my ear. Again I looked around, but could see nothing, though I concluded it must bo cither a polar bear or a wolf. Therefore, considering my unarmed state, and the distance I had climbed up the mount, away from all assistance, I thought the better part of valor in such a case was to beat a hasty retreat. Ll 530 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. The distance to tlie sea-ice was one mile, and thence to where my companions were, another mile. I shall not soon forget that day's adventure. I awaited the fourth growl, and when that came I quickly packed up instruments and started on a run, turning ev- ery few moments to see whether I was ahead. In my course was a long drift of snow, and as I was making a rapid transit of this, a spot in it proved treacherously soft, which gave me a fall, and heels over head I went to the bottom of the hill. Fortunately it was the quickest and most direct passage I could make, and, as it . happened, no bone or any thing else was broken. When I ar- rived back and told my companions what I had heard, they de- clared I had had a narrow escape from cither hungry wolves or a polar bear. It was -4 30 P.M. when we resumed our way across Frobisher Bay. Having got fairly through the passage between the islands on the ice-foot, we turned southerly. We soon saw ahead immense numbers of seals out on the ice. They extended over a large area, and were so numerous that with my glass I could not count them. Just as we were turning off the ice to an island — J. K. Smith Island, as I named it — on which we had proposed to make our seventeenth encampment, three wolves appeared in sight, coming swiftly on our track, and presently on came a fourth — all most ■wtr'- repass*?:. =^--^ ^^^ TUB IICNURY WOLVES. ferocious -looking brutes. They were bold, approaching quite near, watching our movements, and now and tlien opening and snapping their teeth, and smacking their chaps, as if already feast- ing on human steaks and blood. We prepared for the fray by arming with rifle, gun, and spear, each ready to defend himself as best he could. Between the wolves and us was much hummocky THE HUNGRY WOLVES. 631 ice. Behind this ico we placed ourselves, cnch seeking to get a good shot. Sharkey led in the attack, leveling his gun on the instant that one of these savage foes began to make its approach. The result was that the hungry wolf turned tail, and went off' limping, minus a man-supper, his companions following him. After the excitement of this affair was partially over, Koojesse informed me that he had known many instances in which Innuits had been attacked, killed, and devoured by hungry wolves. When once so attacked, it was generally sure death to the Innuit. It was, indeed, with thankful heart that I retired to my snowy couch that night, as I thought of m}'' narrow escape from the very midst of that hungry pack, unarmed as I was, and far away from all help save that which is ever mighty to save. The following morning, May 15th, we were about to resume our journey, when, the wind having increased to a gale, accompa- nied with drift, and Koojesse being quite ill, we were obliged to hold over, and keep in the igloo all day. Our fare that day was raw seal and raw ducks. The ducks were very fat, the fot being like butter both in appearance and taste. In the morning of Friday, the 16th, the weather was thick, and at times spitting snow. We were up at 3 A.M., intending to start early, and complete the crossing of Frobisher Bay to Kingaite coast; but the shore-ice by the island of our encampment was in such an impassable condition from ebb tide that we had to wait for the flood. At 7 30 we were under way, passing to the west- ward and northward for some time along the coast of Resor Isl- and* on our left, over the rough ice, and among the thousand and one islands of that part of P'robisher Bay. At 11 A.M. we ar- rived at White Island, which I had seen on my boat-voyage in the previous fall, and then thouglit very remarkable. On this oc- casion I landed to examine it and procure geological specimens. Thirty minutes after meridian we arrived close to a point of Kingaite coast, whence I could see what the natives call SharJco (low land), where I had my eighteenth encampment of the boat- voyage in the fall of 1861. Having reached the point — Turn Point, f as I called it — where my survey of the Kingaite coast terminated when on that voyage, I turned about and resumed the survey, passing rapidly down a beautiful channel — Cincinnati * Named nftcr Willinm Rcsor, of Cincinnati, Oliio. The centre of this island is in Int. 03° 10' N., long. 07" r.,"/ W. t Turn Point is in lat. 03° 19' N., long. 68° 09' W. |( m 532 AUCnC UESKAUCII EXI'ICDITION. Press Channel, as I named it, in honor of the Associated Press of the Queen City — between Kingaite and Pugh Island.* At 3 P.M., while we pursued our journey down the channel, an exciting scene occurred. A ])olar bear, with its cub, was observed on the ice near the base of a bold high mountain. Inunediately the dogs -were stopped and the guns loaded. Koojessc forgot that he was latne and sick, and prei)ared to join us in the hunt. I, with sj)y-glass in hand, watched the bear's movements, and when all was ready, the dogs were again started. They soon caught sight of the prey, and bounded forward. While drawing us with great speed, and when within 200 fathoms, the drauglit-lino of the leader was cut, and away he flew toward the bear. Then anoth- er, and then another of the running dogs was cut loose and sent in chase, until all were free from tlu; sledge and in pursuit. THE IIEAB-IIDNT. The bear, with her cub following, made her way over the bro- ken ice between the main ice and the shore, direct for the mount- ain steep, whicli they at once began to ascend. ♦ Named after Gcorf,'oE. Pugli, of Cincinnati, Ohio. # long, tha centre being in lat. 03= IC N., long. CS° W. One of the dogs This island is ten miles I'OLAU-JJKAIMIUNT. 533 had now noaictl them, and constantly attacked the cub until it became separated from its mother. Then another dog sprang at the hinder part of the old bear, which turned and made a ])Iunge at the dog, causing both to tumble headlong down tin; de- clivity, which was so sleep that 1 wondered how the bear could have ascended it. The light now became earnest, and the dog yelped with pain, as the bear's paw came heavily upon him. I'resently Bruin was obliged to turn again, and, with head swinging to and IVo, and roaring plaintively on hearing the cries of her cub, she reascend- cd the mountain where it was impossible for dog or man to fol- low. The eleven dogs finally all took after the cub, which was part way np the mountain side, and, as one seized it, over rolled cub and dog together, and so came tumbling down. While Koo- jeaso and Sharkey sought to get a shot at the old one, I went forward simply to see the fray between young polar and the dogs. On making my way from the main ice to the shore, the cub made a rush at mc with jaws widely distended. I instantly placed my- self in position, prepared to receive the threatened shock. I re- ceived young polar on the point of my spear, having directed it well toward the neck, and pierced Jfchrongh," The dogs at once flew to my aid, and soon the savage beast was flat over on its back. "Withdrawing the spear, a stream of hot blood immediately poured forth ; and then, with heavy blows on the head, I broke in its skull, and thus killed it. I took it that my Innuit friends would rejoice on learning my success, but I soon fouiid how mistaken I was idjbis idea. On showing them what I had done, they shrug- ged their shoulders and — said nothing. Of course I was sur- prised, and knew not what to make of such conduct, it being the reverse of what I had expected. It was not long before I learn- ed the viiskike I had made in killing the young bear. This I as- certained in the following way: While Koojesso and Sharkey were engaged skinning ar-lith(a (young polar bear), I proposed to them to go into camp where we were. They objected to this. I then told them how desirous I was to remain in that locality for a day or so. ^ly great and earnc.-t object was to ascend the high land close by, and connect togethei some of the points of my past and prospective visitation. I Ibi'.nd that nothing whatever would induce them to stop and make encampment there. They said that the old bear would return in the night, and, smelling the blood of her young, she would be enraged to madness, and kill 584 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. YIII:NG I'Ol.AU OU.MINU TO THE 1H)INT. all of US. Furthermore, they said that their people alwa3'S avoided killing the young of a Ninoo till the old one was dead,ik)m the very fact that the previous death of the offspring made the moth- er a hundred fold more terrible than she otherwise would be. The result of this matter was no camp there or about there that night. My companions, having completed their woriv of skinning the bear, buried in snow the liver and head, which Tnnuits never eat, nor allow their dogs to eat, if they can help it. However, one of my dogs, Barbekark, got loose from the sledge and found the liver, when the whole pack bolted away and pitched in for a share. The carcass of the bear was placed on the sledge, when (5 P.M.) we started on our way down the channel. In half an hour we arrived at open water — a tide-opening one tliird of a mile long and thirty fathoms wide. Sharkey had told nic about this open water while we were at the 17th encampment, on occasion of my proposing to strike from thence to Kingaite, and continue down INNUIT TRECAUTION. 535 the coast. Sharkey said it was altogether doubtful whether we should be able to do so, ou account of the ou-kun-nier (an extend- ed opening in the ice caused by the tides). It seems that, during the coldest weather, these open places between the numerous isl- ands in this part of Frobisher Bay never freeze over on account of the swiftly-running tides. However, we experienced no great trouble in making our way over an ice-belt that led past this ou- kun-nier. This space of open water abounded in seals. In the course of a few minutes Sharkey fired two shots, the last being successful, killing a fine large seal, which we soon had fast to the sledge. We now had a Ninoo and a seal — enough for a feast for both men and dogs. When at the tide-opening we were only one mile and a half from where we had killed the bear. This distance would not sat- isfy m}^ friends by several miles for making encampment, there- fore, at 6 P.M., wc resumed our journey. A few minutes brought us to where the channel opened out to a beautiful bay, which I named Eggleston Bay.'^' Our course then was over a smooth field of ice. After making a distance of some six miles from where the bear was killed, and as we were making good progress homeward directly down the bay, all at once the dogs were turned by the driver sharply to the left, nearly but not quite half round, and di- rected toward the south termination of Bugh Island, whei'c we made our eighteenth encampment. Before wc retired for the night the sledge was stuck up on end in an ice-crack, and the guns and spears were put in order, at the head of our couch, for innne- diate use, if occasion should require it. As I needed an explana- tion of some of these movements of my Innuit companions, so my readers may require one of me. I thus give it: The reason of Sfoiuii: to such a distance from the scene of the bear-hunt before making our encampment has already been given. The sharp turn — nearly reversing our co^^rse — was designed, as the Esquimaux explained it, for a safeguard against pursuit by the enraged old bear. If she should attempt to pursue on our sledge-track, her movements would be rapid; and, finding the track nearly in a straight line for so long a distance, she would become somewhat confident, "thinking" that the same undeviating course had been kept to the end ; therefore, on her reaching the place of the sharp turn, it might be unnoticed and unscented, and she would con- * NniiK'il nfti'v lirnjatnin K;;(jl('st(in, df rinciniKiti, Ohio. Tlie centre of this I)ny is in lilt. ua° la' N., long. C8° W. !^cc Chart. 536 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. tinue her course some time longer before discovering her mistake. But, in case she should track us to our igloo (our sixteenth, seven- teenth, and eighteenth encampments were igloos or snow-houses), then the first thing she would do would be to throw down the sledge (one of many things that polar bears do not like to see standing), and thus we should be awakened, and put on our guard against the ferocious beast. But, happily, no enraged " she bear' made her appearance. The trick of the sharp turn may have saved us. ^lie bladder of the young Ninoo was kept hung up, at whatev- er place we happened to be, for three days, according to custom ; and that night we had an excellent supper off my prize, the flesh appearing and tasting like veal. On the morning of Saturday, May 17tl), having first ascended the heights of the island of our encampment, and made the neces- sary observations for continuing my survey, we resumed our jour- ney down the bay, passing rapidly, on our right, Cape Poillon- and Newell's Sound, f and at our left Pike's Ishuid,:j: our course being along near the Kingnite coast and direct for Cape A^andcr- bilt,§ which point we reached at 3 40 PM. On arriving there, I found it a capital point for connecting together much of my pre- vious work by a round of angles. Unfortunately, before I could accomplish much work in that line, a thick fog closed distant ob- jects from view. As I did not like to leave such a favorable point without additional sights, I proposed to my company to re- main there till the next day. To this Koojesse, who was quite ill and peevish, obstinately objected. I therefore concluded to strike across the bay at once for the place of tenth encampment, our starting-point on this flying trip, which we had left on the 8lh in- sta \t. At 5 17 P.M. we left Cape Vanderbilt, purposing to travel all night. Our course was almost in line with Cape Hill,! which is the south termination of Chase Islapd.^[ • Named after Cornelius C. and Richard Poillon, of New York. This capo is in hit. r,;5° 11' N., long. G7° 49' W. t Named nftor Thomas W. Newel), of Cinrinnati, Ohio. The north cnpo of ihis sound is Capo I'oillon, the; soiifli capo Capo Vanderbilt. X Named after llie house of nenjiimin I'iko & Sons, of New York. The centre of this ishiiul is in lat. (13° i;5' N., hma. 07° iV W. § Named after Conieliiis Vanderliilt, of Ntnv York. This cape is in hit. (i!!" 07' 30" N., lonK. (57° 34' W. See Chart. II Named after George 11. Hill, of Cincinnati, Ohio. This capo is in lat. 02° r>4' N., h)nK. 00° 37' W. f Named after Salmon P. Cdasc, of Ohio. It is one of tlie first group in middle of Fruliislicr Bay. Tiie centre of tiiis island is in lat. 02° 08' N., hmn. Of!'' 45' W. A SCENE OF GKANDKUU. 539 Kcver shall I forget tliat night. It was very cold, and wo sat on the sledge well clothed in furs, while the dogs flew merrily and at their most rapid rate. Occupying a place in the rear of all the rest, where all was clear for action, with the box chronometer un- der my eye, I threw the log every ten minutes, holding the reel up in my right liand.* We all felt the coid severely, and had re- course to various contrivances to keep some warmth in our limbs. No doubt i presented rather a grotesque ajipearancc as I sat with native stockings on my hands now and then instead of outside mittens. Toward midnight we felt the want of shelter and rest ; but, in my own case, all sense of discomfort was banished by the beauty which Nature i)laced before me. The grandeur of Kin- gaitc's grotto mountains that we were leaving behind us, with their contrasts of light and shade, as viewed in the night, and watched as light increased with advancing da\', filled my soul with inexpressible delight. It was like beholding a mighty city of cathedrals, monuments, palaces, and castles overthrown by an earthquake, the ruins resting amid mountain drifts of snow. At 3 A.M. of the ISth, when near the islands which diversify Frobisher Bay in the locality between ^I'Lean Island and Chase Island, the sun began to peer out from behind the dark clouds, wluni we stopped the dogs, threw ourselves flat on the bare snow, and slept soundly for one hour and thirty-five minutes. At 8 A.M we arrived at the 18th encani})ment (which was the same as the tenth), whence we had started on the 8th instant, mak- ing an absence while on this journey of just ten days. The num- ber of miles traveled was 176 nautical, or 203 English miles, this distance having been made in exactly 5-i hours and 31 minutes traveling time. A brief extract from my notes, written after my return from this j'ourney, reads as follows : " Taking my departure from the tenth encampment on May 8, 18r)2, and sledging 176 miles (nautical), now, on my return to same place, my '■ ihad rcckonhuf — which has been kept independent of all the astronomical observations taken during the trip — makes the same place differ in latitude 2-ni'ir niiles, and in longitude less * See nccompntiyitif; engnivinp, nnd nlso type on larger scale of slcilge-Iog, line and reel, on page .'■)21, drawn to one sixth of the size of the origiiiid. This contriv- ance was made while encani])cd on the ice in the middle of Frohisher Hiiy i^^iiinth cncanipinont). Tlie reel was wood, the lino a codfish-lino, tlie lop a relic of the wrecked Itisriie — a rinp-holt, weighing just two jiounds, which answcnd admirably the purpose for which I desired it, 54:0 AKCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. than half a geographical mile, an approximation 1 little expected to make." I found Uenry very sick, and it was necessary that I should get him to the vessel as soon as possible. Tunukderlien and Jennie were well, the latter as evil-disposed as ever. Sliarkey, howev- er, had to receive sad news. By his former wife he had a child, which had been given in care to another Innuit. This child would occasional!}', by various acts such as arc common to young children, annoy its guardian, who accordingly conveyed it to the top of a lonely and rocky mountain, served it up in a sealskin, and threw it down a deep cleft, leaving it there to be frozen to death, and there its little corpse was afterward discovered by some In- nuits. We found plenty of food among the people here, and blubber, the commercial value of which would have been some hundreds (jf dollars, and yet all soon to be wasted. One ookgook which ^'.ley had captured must have weighed quite 1500 ])ouuds, and its blubber was two inches thick. The following da}', May 19th, finding that Koojcssc was too sick to accompany me farther, and that Sharkey had to remain witli his wife, I made arrangements with tlic Innuit "Bill," who agreed to take Henry and myself, with my dogs, to Oopungne- wing. After farewells with my Innuit friends, away we went, all six of us (Bill would have his wife and two children along too), down the bay; but in the evening a heavy snow-storm came on, and, though we tried to breast it for some time, we were at length obliged to give in, and encamp, after midnight, on Clarke's Isl- and, which is between Jones's Cape atid Chapel's Point. The next morning, the 20th, we again ])rocceded, the traveling, in consequence of rough ice, being very bad, and, on arriving at a point near Twerpnkjua, wo were obliged to make our course over a narrow neck of land, called tlie Pass of Ef-too-no])-piu, which leads directly to the Countess of Warwick's Sound. The channel between Niountelik and Oopungnewing was also much broken up, and it was only with great dilTiculty wc reached the latter- named place in the afternoon. Here I found numerous Innuit families, and also heard that Captain B had visited the ])lace, but had gone down to Cape True fifteen days before. " Bill," my sledge-driver, was so stricken with snow-blindness that I had to make arrangements with Innuit "Charley" to carry me back to the ship. This was speedily effected, and in an» hour's time we acain started. SAFE ARRIVAL. 541 We proceeded rujjidly across the sound to Lincoln Bay, and tbence, taking Bayard Taylor Pass, arrived at Field Bay. On the way quite an accident occurred. While on the desscent of the land pass, Field Bay side, the sledge capsized and broke down, and one of the runners split from stem to stern. At first we thought that it was a complete wreck, and that nothing could be done except to walk the remaining distance; but " Charley" at once proceeded to unload the sledge and make repairs. With a seal-knife he bored three holes through the two- inch plank runner, bound the shattered parts together, made all secure, reloaded the sledge, and then, when wc had taken some- thing to cat and drink, declared that all was once more ready to jiroceed. The dexterity with which " Charley" did this was re- markable. In fifty minutes from the time the sledge was broken he had it all in order again. It was nearly two o'clock in the morning of Tuesday, May 21st, when we arrived at the sh'p, where I found on board only the steward and " Fluker." WALUCH ae/iu. ahv tcbeu, 542 AIICTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. CHAPTER XXXV. Ebicrbinp; and Tookoolito. — They tlcciilo to Visit Ampricn. — More Frobislior Relics. — A iMiisivCt-l)iill. — OKI Ookijoxy Niiioo. — Interesting Conversiuion. — Her Sl;eteii of tlie Monument. — Iniiuit Superstition. — The Lock of Hair.' — Sledge journey nione. — Another Trip ivith Ehierbing. — Diinger on the Ice.— Remains of Inniiit subterranean Houses. — A critical Situation.— Boat-excursion to Countess of War- wick's Sound. — A largo Traveling Company. — Kodlunarn again. — Fresh Discov- eries. — Another Voyage. — Sharkey's Monument. — Walrus Meat. For a week after my return to the ship nothing especially wor- thy of note occurred. An extract from my diary of May 25th, 1862, will show that I was reasonably certain of having Innuit companions on my return to the United States: "Ebierbing and his nuliana, Tookoolito, will return here in season to accompany me to America. I am to take them for the purpose of having them accompany me on a future expedition to King William's Land. I hope, after what I have done here in the North in the way of explorations, in discovering relics of Frobisher's expe- ditions of near three centuries ago, and in determining the prob- able fate of the five of his company that were kidnjipped here, I shall have no insurmountable obstacle to overcome in preparing for that voyage which I still have at heart — the voyage to King William's Land and Boothia — to investigate all the facts relative to Sir John Franklin's expedition while in the vicinity of the places named. That the Innuits are still living who know all about the mysterious termination of that expedition I have not the shadow of a doubt. What is requisite is to visit those regions, get acquainted with and establish friendly relations among the Li- nuits there, become familiar with their language, and then learn of them the history of that expedition." On the 3d of June I was fortunate in obtaining two more relics of the Frobisher expedition. Ooksin, an Innuit whom I had known before, came on board from Oopungnewing, and gave me. as a present from Annawa's wife, Noodlooj^ong, a piece of brick, or rather of tile, about two inches long, one inch thick, and one and a half inches wide, and also a musket-ball, both found on Kod- MOUE FROBLSIIKlt RELICS. 543 lunarn many years ago, and before guns were used by the natives. Tbe piece of tile was similar to tbose used by tbe native women in tbat locality for polishing tbeir brass ornaments. It aflbrded evidence enougli, in dirt and grease, that it must have been in In- nuit hands a long time. The ball had the appearance of having been carefully preserved since first found. It had several small indentations upon its surface, and the whole of it was covered with a white coat (oxide of lead), in consequence of long ex- posure. It is ^-i-ths of an inch in diameter. Ooksin said the ball was found on Kodlunarn, under one of the embankments by the "ship's trench," before Innuits knew any thing of guns, and when they used only bows and arrows. A day or two after this, on June 7th, I started on a sledge-ex- ploring trip to Cornelius Grinnell Bay, being accompanied by Ebierbing as dog-driver, but, after proceeding down the bay, coast- ing along by Clement's Land,* rounding Farrington's Capc,f and making some distance to the north, we were obliged, on account of the deep, soft snow upon the sea-ice, to return on the tenth of June without accomplishing my object. While on this trip, however, I met with old Ookijoxy Kinoo — who, with Ebierbing, Koodloo, and their families, was living- near Farrington's Cape, on a spot called by the natives Twcr-jmk- ju-a-chnne,\sh.ic\i means a place with many small stones — and had an interesting conversation with her concerning matters pertain- ing to Frobisher's expedition, being fortunate enough to find her in a communicative mood. She was in her tuple, sometimes sit- ting, sometimes reclining, and, as usual with her (being old and infirm, and mostly confined to her bed), was quite naked, with the exception of a tuktoo coverlet over her shoulders. When she reclined she rested her chin in her hands, which were propped u]) by her elbows. Beside her lay her sick grandchild, a one-eyed boy of nine years, at whose illness she greatly grieved. Near at hand was Ookoodlear, Ookijoxy Niiioo's granddaughter, who was almost constantly employed in attending to the calls of the old lady ; she was now engaged in dressing a tuktoo skin and tending the infant of Tookoolito, who acted as my interpreter. The old lady then, in answer to questions put by me through ♦ Named after W. 11. Clement, of Cincinnati, Ohio. For Clement's Land see Chart. t Named after H. B. Farringion, of New York. This cape is in lat. 02° 50' N., long. 04° 33' W. 544 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. Tookoolito, rcpccatccl to mc, though in a somewhat difterent form, what I had learned in previous conversations with her, namely, that ships with white men came to those regions; that the hod- hums who were left behind built a ship, attempted to escape from the country, failed in the attempt, and finally froze to death. She also gave mc two names, which show how accurately the tradi- tions of the Innuits are handed down ; one was the name of a na- tive who was particularly kind to the white men, and who was called ^'' E-loud-ju-arng ;" he was a Pim-ma-in, a great man or chief among tlie Innuits, aa Tookoolito, translating the old lady's words, said, "All same as king." When the white men were about to set out with their ship for home, this Eloudjuarng had a song made wishing the kodlunas a quick passage and much joy, and he caused his people, who were then very numerous, to sing it. The other name handed down is that of one native who saw the kodlunas, *^3fan-nu." Ookijoxy Ninoo gave me, moreover, an entirely new fact. She said that the kodlunas in the ships who first came to the country went up the bay called by the Innuits Kcr-iink-luo-Joo-a, and by mc Xewton's Fiord, and there, a little distance inland, erected a mon- ument. Some time later, Tookoolito brought me a sketch of the monument, made by the old lady herself, and the accompanying illustration presents afac-simile of this sk(>tch. The monument itself is not on very high land. The Innuits for a very long time, and down even to the present day, have been in the habit of go- ing there; and wishing success in hunting, they would give it presents of young tuktoo meat, bows and arrows, beads, etc., hang- ing the same on it or placing them close about it. It was on all occasions treated with the greatest respect, the belief being that he who gave much to the monument would kill much game. Ebicrbing, on seeing the sketch, said that he had frequently given arrows in a similar way. At one point in her narrative old Ookijoxy Ninoo seized an oodloo — a knife shaped like the chopping-knifo in use among us (see page 272) — and severed a lock of her hair, which she gave into my hands with the request that I would take it to America, and show it to many people as that of the oldest Innuit inhabit- ant. She said that there was no one living in her country who was a child when she was. Iler hair was nearly all black, there being only now and then a white or gray hair on her head. I doubt not Ookijoxy Ninoo was fully 100 years old. Finding the THE WHITE MAN'S MONUMENT. 545 old lady becoming exhausted, I took my lenve and returned to the sledge. I'ac RiMii.K BKKTcii iiv OoKijoxY NiNoo, wlio roprojciitif hcrnetf pcrfonninK her dcvotiona to the kok- kon-e-lii^riKj, tlu' iiiii'ipnt moiiuim'iit of tlic kotl-lti-mtK (white men). Tho rude ckctch in the low- er pnrt of tliiM illiintraticiii represents a freHli-wnter liilsc, wliicli in iieiir tlic mouuinetit. Tlie pend- ent linea nround the tup of tlie niuuuuient are strings to wliicli tho natives Imng tlieir presents. On tlie 14tb of June I left the ship on a visit to the whaling de- pot at Cape True. As no other sledge was at hand, I took a small one which I had previously made of such material as I found on board, and with (wo dogs started on my journey alone. I was not expert at driving, and at first made slow progress, but finally succeeded in getting my team into good working order. Barbe- kark was my leader, and, by dint of hard blows, I managed to keep him in a right position. On my way I called at the tuples Mm 546 ARCTIC RESEAllCII EXl'EUITION. of Ebicrbing and Koodloo, at Farrington Cape. Iloro I had a pleasant conversation with Tookoolito, and, soon after, Ugarng ar- rived from Allen's Island, in Cornelius Grinnell Bay. I stoj)ped here for the night, and the next morning departed for Cape True, my company being increased by seven souls, with two large dog- teams and two sledges. Wo arrived at the whaling depot -with- out mishap, and found the captain and his men, and several Innu- its — among them my faithful attendant " Sharkey" — all well, fat, and healthy. I remained a short time at this place, and then — June 18th — returned to the ship, whence I expected to depart in a few days for Cornelius Grinnell Bay, for the purpose of making a survey of it. I here bring forward an extract from my journal of P'riday, June 20th, 1862 : " To-morrow I expect Ebicrbing to come after me, when I shall hope to make a successful start for Cornelius Grinnell Bay. My work by sledge will soon be over ; the water-pools on the ice are growing numerous and are enlarging. ^^ Siiiunlay^Jane 2\st. A few minutes after 1 P.M., Ebicrbing, with team of dogs, arrived. To-morrow morning I start on my proposed trip, weather jiermitting — I mean, God willing." At 7 23 on the morning of the 25th, Ebicrbing and myself left, the shij), taking our course directly down the Bay for Farrington Cape. Thence we turned and traveled northwardly and eastward- ly for Cape Haven,* a mountain island at the eastern extreme of Williams's Peninsula.f Cape Haven was the place of my first encampment on this trip, and distant by sledge route from George Henry Harbor fifteen miles. On ascending its heights I found the view that it commanded to be very extensive. On the following day I held over at the place of my first en- campment till 11 A.M., hoping the sun would make its appear- ance from behind the clouds, so that I might make observations for time, latitude, and solar bearings. Having no prospect of sun, we started or,, striking along to the north on the ice of Davis's Strait, our course leading us not far from the coast of Williams's Peninsula. Before leaving Cape Ua- * Thus named after Ilonry P. Haven, of New London, Conn. Cape Haven is in lat. C2° 54' N., long. G4° 215' W. t Thus named after T. W. Williams, of Now London, Conn. The Esquimaux name of the land which I called Williams's Peninsula is Simj-cy-er. A NARROW ESCAPE. 547 vcn, however, we prospected from its summit the state of tlic ice over wliicli wo cxpect'^d to travel that day, and found it rent here and there with wide and diversified fissures. Tlio prospect be- fore us was certainly not very flattering, still we determined on doing the best we could in making a trial. This trial wo made, but with what success will now appear. In passing almost direct for Rogers's Island wo found the ice of a very dangerous charac- ter. It was groaning and cracking to an alarming extent. The open water was only some three miles off, and the heaving sea be- neath us threw up the frozen mass upon which we traveled in a way that made it doubtful if wc could proceed. Wide fissures and numerous tide-holes were met, and frequently my companion Ebierbing and myself had to move along the edge of these fis- sures for some distance before we could find any passage across. On one occasion the dogs were trotting along by the side of an ice-fissure, while I was intent upon examining the land we were passing, and Kbicrbing was looking after a seal ; they suddenly drew the sledge almost into the yawning chasm ; but, on my rais- ing a cry of warning, Ebierbing, by a word, turned the team off from the dangerous spot, and thus saved us. "Wo arrived at Rog- ers's Island at 7 P.M., and made our second encampment, having made the distance of just twenty miles from Cape Ilaven on a course N. by W. (true). We were detained on Rogers's Island one full day and two nights by a terrific gale and snow-storm which occurred on the 24th. It was an anxious time with us, for there was every prob- ability that the gale would make distustrous work with the ice over which I intended to make my return to the ship. In case it did so, we should not be able to reach the vessel in less than two or three weeks, as we should have been obliged to make our way as best we could to the land on the opposite side of the bay, and thence, abandoning every thing, to have gone on foot over mount- ains of rock and snow to Field Bay. Fortunately, wc were preserved from this peril, and on the 25th of June we reached Allen's Island in safety ; but, although I had originally intended to go '.o the extreme of this bay, the advanced season had made ice-traveling so precarious that I was forced to confine my labors to the survey of that part of the bay south of Allen's Island, and I commenced a renewed examination of the place. A short distance from where we had our third encamp- ment, which was on the south end of Allen's Island, I saw the 548 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. ruins of an old Innuit village, wliicli showed a custom of the peo- ple in former times of building their winter houses or huts under ground. Circles of earth and stones, and skeleton bones of huge whales were to be seen, as also subterranean passages. There were, moreover, bones of seals and other animals beneath sods and moss, indicative of their great age. I discovered with my spy-glass two monuments at the distance of about a mile inland, and thither I directed my steps. They were seven or eight feet high, four feet square at the base, and about three fathoms distant from each other. The top of one had been torn or blown down. The stones of which they were composed were covered with black moss. 1) jy were erected by the Innuits evidently ages ago. My record of the succeeding day commences thus : ^'Thursday, June 2Qlh, 1862. I much desired to continue my trip up to the extreme of this bay, but, on consulting freely with m}- Innuit companion, I found that my better policy was to give njt the idea of doing so. It would take some three or four days to go up and return, allowing the loss of one or two days bad weath- er, as Ebierbing said, and in that time the probability of losing our chance to return on the ice with our sledge and instrunn ,.s; besides, Ebierbing said that Ugarng had told him that there would be great risks to run in going up the channel on either side of Allen's Island on account of thin ice and tide-holes." On the morning of the above day wc commenced our return to the vessel. I omitted nothing on my way back that I could do in the way of making observations for completing my chart. Oui- fourth encampment was near the north end of Williams's Peninsula. On Friday, the 27th of June, 11 A.M., wc were back again at Cape Haven, the place of our first encampment. As I was desir- ous of spending a day at this place in making numerous observa- tions, it being a favorable look-out point, I therefore chose it for my fifth encampment. One could scarcely have more joyous feelings than I had at the prospect that was before me of doing some excellent work, and oi doing a large amount of it. The day was fine — that is, I had a bright clear sun, while; there was a light breeze from the north- west which was just warm enough, or, rather, just cold enough for my comfort. While I was engaged at my work on tlio heights of this cape, Ebierbing proceeded fiir out on the ice of Davis's Straits and em- ployed himself in sealing. Many, very many places that had now MONUMENTAL ISLAND. 649 become familiar to me even as friends, were in view; in truth,! was nearly encircled by them, though, the most were far off. Prominent among these were the Monumental Island of Sir John Franklin,* twenty miles distant, bearing E.S.E. (true), and Lady MOSCMENTAL IBLANU OF BIB JOHN ITiAHKUN. Franklin Island, nearly due east, while far away to the north were Cape [Murchison, Brevoort Island, Kobinson Sound, f Beekman's Peninsula,:}: Archibald Promontory,§ and Cape Arnoux.|| A chan- * I so named this island as my tribute to the mcmorj' of Sir John Franklin. The Innnit name of it is Oo-7iH-i'n-ir(i, from its resemblance to nn inverted oo-mi-cn (a woman or family boat). Its geographical jiosition I dctcrniinnd by triangulation, which was done repeatedly and carefully, that I might hnvu confuicnco iii recom- mending this ns a desirable and reliable ])oint by which navigators, who might de- sire it, coidd regalate their chronometers. The centre of the Slonumental Island of Sir John Franklin I found to be in hit. G2° 4,"i' 45" N., and long. G3° 41' 07" west of Greenwich. See Chart. t This extensive sound I have named after Cajitaiii IT"nry TJobinson, of Nowbnrg, N. Y. It is between llcekman's Peninsula and Hrevoort Island. See Chart. X Named by me after James W. Heekinan, of New York. IJerkman Peninsula is bounded on the east by Robinson Sound and Anderson Channel, and on the west by Cornelius Grinnell Bay. § Named after E. M. Archibald, II. B. M. consul of New York. This promontory is on the west side, at the entrance of Kobinson Sound. II Named after Wm. Ilemy Arnoiix, of Xew York. Cape Arnoux is on the east side, at the entrance to Cornelius GrinnuU Bay. 550 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. nel or strait, which I named Anderson Channel,* leading from Eobinson Sound up toward Northumberland Inlet, was lost to my view by the high land of Beekman's Peninsula. The obser- vations I made at this point were quite numerous and important. On the following day (27tli) we continued our return, and at 5 P.M. arrived at the ship, where Captain B , with four of the crew, had arrived the day previous from Cape True. On the 30th of June I started on a sledge trip to Cape True, where most of the oflicers and crew of the Geonje Henry were yet staying. There I remained for several days, trying to form a company of natives to go with me by boat to Countess of War- wick's Sound. I succeeded in obtaining a company of eleven, consisting of Miner and his new wife " Suzhi" — my old boat com- panion on my voyage up Frobisher Bay — Koopcrneung and his two wives — for he had recently married a second — Sharkey and his Jennie, young "Captain," "Bone Squash," and two lunuit children — a girl and a boy. We left Cape True at 9 45 A.M. on the morning of July 13th, and at 3 P.M. reached a small island near Oopungnewiiig, named by me Ookijoxy Ninoo; thence, after a short stop, we went on to Oopunguewing. My purpose in visiting this island was to hunt for the "anvil," which, as I have already stated, had been thrown from the south end into the water. It was just after the full moon, and therefore the tides were rising and falling to their ex- treme limits, near thirty feet; at low water a wide shore was left perfectly exposed, and nothing could have escaped my eye. I sought carefully and with anxiety for the relic I so much desired to obtain, but in vain ; it was not there. It was clear that the "thick-ribbed ice" had embraced it, as it evidently had every loose stone and heavy rock in that locality, and had carried it away from the land in its grasp. On the following day, July 14th, we started for Kodlunarn, where we remained till the 17th, during which time I occupied myself in making researches for relic; , investigating all that I could which had a bearing upon the subject, besides making a com- plete survey of the island. These days of hard work resulted in the discovery of additional relics, confirming me in the opinions I had previousl}'' formed, and which I have elsewhere in this vol- ume expressed. In addition to what I had dime before, I found very clear evidences of the existence of a blacksmith's forgo or a '•" This chanDcl I named after Captain Anderson, of the steam-shij) China, \ GATHERING RELICS. 551 furnace. I must not omit to say here that the Esquimaux wom- en and children, and occasionally the men, aided me greatly while on Kodlunarn, searching for and securing relics. The men were obliged to be off, most of the time, sealing and hunting tuktoo for our subsistence. Our tuples v/erc close by the place that we called the "ship's trench" (sec Plan No. 1 on Chart Sheet), and occasionally, as I have said, all hands were engaged with me in gathering Frobishcr rel- ics. One may get a good idea of our appearance when so engaged from the accompanying engraving. I lu: AiTiniB AM) 1118 Inndit Co-Vpanv (111 Kiidlmmin, or Wliito Man'J Island, gathering Froblslier Kelie.", July lUh-ntli, 1S0l>. The following list is an extract from the catalogiie that accom- panied the Frobishcr relics which I sent to the British govern- ment, through the Koyal Geographical Society of London, shortly after my return to the State?, and embraces twenty aniclcs that were inclosed in a small black-velvet-lincd box, lettered J, which, with all that I sent, have been deposited by the British govern- ment in the Greenwich Hospital Museum, the same institution in which the Franklin relics arc to bo seen. The unabridged list comiirised 130 separate parcels. CONTENTS OF BOX J. FROniElIEIt BF.LIOS. A PORTION OF THE RELIC LIST. 553 LIST OF ARTICLES ILLUSTRATED IN THE ACCOMPANYING EN- GRAVINGS. "1. FruRmcnt of tile and 4 gravcl-stoncs, united Iiy the moss of ages. 2. Fraj^mcnt of potteiy, fuiitul neui- ' Host's Huhviirls..' E. Sec Chart, Phm No. 1 . 3. Small piece of conl (aiiparently of hair), found deeply imbedded in the coal-de- posite of Ek-k('-lc-v,hun. 4. Four fragments of Khiss (ap])arcntly of a jar or bottle), found on the ground near the ship's way. Tlie I'xact sjiot, I. 5. rieco of oxyd of iron, with the moss of ages upon it, found near tlie ship's trench. A A. C. I'iece of wood, dug up nt tlie foot or base of the .shiij's trench. AA. 7. Soa-coal, with the moss of ages upon it, foinid near 'Best's Bulwark.' E. 8. Piece of pottery, found near 'Best's Bulwark.' E. !). Fnignient of wliitt pottery (?), black glazing outsiilc and inside, found on Kod- lunaru, near 'Best's Bulwark.' E. 10. ClioifC sjiecimcn of tile, eovoved with the moss of ages, from Kodluiiavn. 11. Hca-coal, covered with Iho moss of ages, from coal dejiosito, Kkkele/.liun. 12. Stone, covered with tlie moss of ages, from the to]) of one of the sliii)'s embank- ments, (jtl. 13. Flint-stone, covered with the moss of ages, found near the head of the .shi])'s way. A A. 14. Fragment of tile (glazed), n]iparently a i)orti(in of it hiinian figure represented njion it — leg Mild foot in nlicvn. Largest piece of tile fouml ; dug from be- neath one of the ship's embankments. GG. 15. Stone, with lime cement, from the ruins of stone house. B. Ki. I'robahly one of the ears or kiiob-handlcs of an earthen jar, from near 'Best's Bulwark." E. 17. Flint-stone witli the moss of ngos upon it. 18. Cliii> found dee))ly imliedded in coal-deijosite, Ekkelozhun. li). Burnt tlint-stone, with lime cement, from the ruins of stone house. B. 20. Clir.rcottl of coarse-grained wood, api)arcntly of thrifty growtli, found under stones and sods by the ruins of the blacksmith's shop. The grain of this charcoal indicates it to bo of the same kind of wood as that found at the base of the ship's trencli, AA. Vide box 1), 1." 554 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. The reader may observe that the capital letters here and there appended to the descriptions in the list refer to spots of ground indicated by those letters respectively in Plan No. 1 of the Chart Sheet. The form and general appearance of each of the twenty articles arc exhibited in the preceding engraving, taken from a photograph. Of course they are reduced in sv/.o. On the 18th, after coasting by Tikkoon. visiting the bluff Ax- 2Mu-e-iie Sup-hmg^ crossing the Countess of Warwick's Sound, and entering Victoria Ba}', I landed at Ekkelezhun, where I had found the heap of coal in the previous fall. Here I again carefully ex- amined the jilacc, and on the next day commenced my return, en- camping at night near a bay or inlet — Sabine Bay* — on the east side of Sharko. "While exploring this inlet I was led to the dis- covery of a monument, built within the jircvious five or six years, on the top of a mountain in the rear of our encampment, and which I learned from the Esquimaux had been erected by an En- glish whaling -captain named Brown. From this monument I took numerous compass bearings and sextant angles, and then, re- turning to the boat, started back for Cape True, where we arrived in the evening. Without dela\-, I proceeded up, along the coast, one mile, and renewed my oljservations to connect with those made at Brown's ^Monument, and thus — as far as lay in my power with the instruments T po.-^sessed — completed the link of bearings and sextant angles that now extended all round Frobisher Bay. I now wanted to make another trip to the " southeast extreme" — the Hall's Island of Frobisher. On my mentioning my desire to the natives, all of them, at first, refused to aecom[)any me, owing to their dread of the place; but at length Sliarkey, the bold In- nuit who was of my company in the late sledge-journey up Fro- bisher Bay, consented to go, if I would allow his wife to be of tlie party. Mate Lamb and four of the ship's crew also went with me, as the ship's company were doing nothing, except now and then capturing a walrus and eating it, sim[)ly living at Cape True until the ice in Field Bay should break up and free the ship. They remained at Cape True to be near the walrus grounds. Our only means of subsistence consisted of such products as the coun- try afforded. About 100 pounds of raw walrus meat was placed in the bottom of the boat, and, besides that, every man had enough of the same food, cooked, to last two days. * Niimcd l)y me after Edward Sabine, of London, England. The entrance to Sa- bine Riiv is ill lat. G2° 3'J' N., long. G:,° {)'>' \\. LAST EXPLORING TRIP. 555 "Wo left the wlialing depot at 3 A.M. of the 21st of July, nnd proceeded through Bear Sound and Lupton Channel to Sylvia Island, where we arrived at five o'clock. I landed and went to the summit, where I could obtain a good view, and, to my vexa- tion, found that Field Bay was still heavily covered with ice. I had purposed making my outward trip along the north side of Lok's Land, and return coasting along its south shore, thus mak- ing a complete circuit of the island ; but the presence of the ice convinced me that this could not be done by boat, and consequent- ly I had to try the southern, or Frobisher Bay side. After spend- ing an hour there, taking a round of angles and doing other work in the way of confirming my survey, wo therefore returned down Bear Sound, passing directly under the beetling clilfs of Alatlack's Island,'"'" which is near the centre of the Sound. About meridian wc were among the islands at the entrance of Bear Sound, visiting one after another for egg and duck hunting, which proved to be quite successful. A short time after wo rounded Cape Chapel, f and made our course nearly due east, coasting along under oars. We had not proceeded far before we were passing the mouth of a beautiful bay — Biglor Ba}-,:}; as I named it — wliich made up some two miles into Lok's Land. Then we entered a loner nar- row channel — New York Press Channel§ — having low land on either side, that at our right being what I called Harper Brothers' Island.] After several hours' hard pulling at the oars we arrived at the termination of this channel, and made our first encamp- ment on Lok's Land, opposite the east end of Harper BrotheivV Island. Wo had boiled ducks and eggs for supper, and our sleeping accommodation for the men was made of the boat's sails, while that for Mr. Lamb and myself was merely a shawl to cov- er us. At 7 A.M. next day, July 22d, we again started, and, as wc passed along Lok's Land, I noticed a monument of stone stand- ing near the edge of the shore. Sharkey told mo that this was erected by himself and some Innuit companions on reaching this spot a few years ago, after having been drifted out to sea when * Named nftor B. Mmlatk, of Cincinnnti, Ohio. t Ntimcil after Cpptaiii EihvarJ A. Clia]H'l, of Hudson, New York. This capo is on the ensi side, at the entrance to Rear Sound of Frobisiier. J Named after James Bi<;ler, of Newburg, New York. § Nauu^d after the Associated Press of New York Cit}-. II Named after " IIar])er Brothers" of New York. The centre of Harper Broth- ers' Islnnu is in hit. {]2° 20' 30" N., long. G4° 30' ^V. 556 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. the ice broke away, at a time they wore out on a walrus hunt from Toongwine (Jones's Cope). It was in the winter, and the weather wtis so severe while they were thus adrift that their dogb all died. The Innuits eseaped by the tide setting the ice inshore. They managed to return to their families by crossing the island, and thence reached the main land by traversing the ice-pack. Be- fore they got back every one had considered them lost, and their return was an occasion of joy to their friends as if the dead had come to life. More monuments were seen, and I was informed that thoy in- dicated the land dreaded by all Innuits, and that they told of a time long ago (already mentioned), when many of the native peo- ple lived there, who ultimately were all lost; since when, no In- nuit dares dwell upon the island. In the course of the day I visited Bear Island — the place where, one year before, while on my sledge-trip, Ebierbing, with Kuodloo, had killed a bear — and at 2 P.M. we reached its eastern end. Here we found the pack-ice setting in with the tide too heavily for risking the boat, and we ngain had to encamp. Next morn- ing, however, we succeeded in crossing the entrance to Osbon'y Bay,* and getting to Hall's Island of Frobisher — the Extreme Land — and, as .soon as i)ossible, I was on my wiiy to the sunnnit of Mount Warwick, which I had ascended in the previous year. It was a laborious task o'l this occasion, with the sun's hot rays pouring down upon our backs ; but, finally, I readied the spot where, on my former visit, heavy fog-banks had shut out all dis- tant objects from my sight. Now I was more fortunate. ^V me- ridian observation of the sun was made, and two .solar bearings obtained, which enabled me to connect many important places by .sextant angles. In recotrnizino; distant lands I received much as- sistance from Sharkey, who is well acquainted with the coast from Northumberland Inlet down to llcsolution Island, and also up Hudson's Strait to Karmowong. The view from the point where I stood was a very extensive one, and probably there is no place in the whole country equal tu it. Certainly no place which I visited while North afibrds such a commanding view as this from Mount Warwick. I could see flu- away to the north, even to the high land near the entrance of * Named by mc nfter B. S. Osbon, of New York.. Osl)on's Buy is at tlio cast end of Lok's Land. Tlio entrance to it is on the soutli side of Hall's Island of Frobishor and Hudson's Island. A GALE.— BEAR SOUND. 557 Northumberland Inlet, and thence, sweeping round by the west, away to Resolution Island south. Seaward, as far as my eye could reach from an elevation of 1200 feet, was pack-ice. Field Bay, except the entrance, was also full of last winter's ice, as was also as much of Frobisher Bay as I could observe. Our return was made, though not without danger and some dif- ficulty. Leaving Hall's Island of Frobisher at G P.M., we arrived at the place of our first encampment at 9 80, night, where wo made our second and last. Next morning, at 4 25, we started, continuing our return voyage. Before we got through New York Press Chan- nel the wind had freshened to a gale from the northeast, but on and on our boat bounded like a thing of life. The gale continued, if any thing increased, till we were athwart Bear Sound, when it burst into fury, madly hurling the foaming breakers in upon us and the unnumbered islands that lay in our course. To add to our dangers, a thick fog was upon us ; yet our little craft, though with half sail, and all the time nearly upon her beam-ends, llew full 15 knots an hour. Speedily and safely, but wet as " drown- ed rats," we arrived at Cape True at 8 15 A.M., though in our pas- sage across Bear Sound we had but just escaped destruction. I may here st^te that the whole party at Cape True were in no want of food while I was there. "Walrus was abundant, and was, indeed, almost exclusively our diet. We had walrus brains for supper; stewed walrus, or walrus boiled, for dinner; but always walrus, and no bread. 558 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. CHAPTER XXXVI. Revisit Victorin Bnj-, — Pnckoil Ice ficfting in tlio Sound. — Detention nnd difficult Es- cape. — Return to tlic Wimiiiit; Depot. — Joyous News from tiie Slii|t. — All llandh summoned on Board. — Great E.\citcment. — Adieu to Bear Sound, Lu])ton Chan- nel, and French Head. — Arrival on Board. — The Shij) free from Ice. — Pre])ar- ations for Sailing. — Visit to Ebicrbing and Tookoolito. — Their readiness to go to America. — August Oth, 1802, the Ge.orijc. Iknrij lifts Anchor, and gets under way for Home. — Friendly Adieux to the Natives. — Once more at Sea. — Finst Sign of Civilization for twenty Months. — Newfoimdinnd. — Pilot comes on Board. — First News of the War. — Kindly Reception at St. John's. — Arrival at New Lon- don. — Conel usion . I WILL hfere give a few brief extracts from my journal, written while stopping at Cape True, commencing with '' Thursdai/, JuJij 31.v/, 1862. One year ago to-ilay the George Henrn broke out of her ice-prison. This morning, Alates Itogers, Gardiner, and Lamb, with their three boats and ei'cws, went out in the bay — Frobisher Bay — after walrus. A short time after they left a thick fog set in, and the tide carried them up opposite Countess of Warwick's Sound before they were aware of it. Aft- er the lighting up of the fog a little, they fell in with a shoal of walrus, of which they harpooned three large ones. This walrus party returned at 3 P.M. with three tons of fresh meat. There is no place in the world where a " living" is obtained with less work than here. These three walruses added make the whole number forty that have been taken since the George Ileiiri/s company first came here this season, not including .some two or three young ones. " Fridcv/, Augmt Ist. And still, as we learn, the George Henry is fast in the ice. Anxious are all of us to depart for the States, but King Ice will not yet let us go, A good ' nor'wcster' would drive away the pacl^ which jiresses .so closely and so unrelenting- ly the west side of Davis's Strait, and allow the ice which holds dominion over the George Henri/ s pathway to the sea to give way. It may be the pack will keep us here another year ; but I hope not. I trust in two weeks more we shall be on our way home, there to prepare for the voyage I have so much at heart. God grant an early deliverance from our ice foe. ^^ August 2d. This afternoon, learning that the Innuits here were COUNTESS OF WARWICK'S SOUND. 559 about to rem' ,c up into Field Bay ns far as tlio open water would allow them, I at once set my wits to work to devise some plan to secure some of tbcm to accompany mc again to Countess of War- wick's Sound, and to be of such service to mc in the boat that I shall be able to keep good dead reckoning. I first conversed with Mate Rogers. He agreed to accompany mc, with two of his men not otherwise engaged. The Innuits ' Miner' and ' Charley' signi- fied a willingness to accompany mc with their wives and kias. I hope now to complete my survey of the Countess of Warwick's Sound, and to be enabled to keep a correct account of distances and courses made. Arrangements are now complete to start to- morrow, with the expectation of being absent two or three days. By that time I hope that we shall have word to vacate this place (Cape True), and make for the ship, to depart for the States. This will probably be my last research voyage before leaving for home. I wish the time would admit of my proceeding up to Ker- nuk-too-ju-a (Newton's Fiord), near which is that monument (sec page Oio) which the natives say was erected ])y kodlunas long, long time ago, which I have been so very anxious to visit since old Ookijoxy Ninoo first told me about it." At 8 A.M. of August 3d, with an increasing breeze, we left the whaling depot, my whble company being in one boat, except Charley and Miner, who were each in his kia. Our progress was good, and we got on without any mishap over half way ; but when near Cape Cracroft, at the entrance to the sound we wished to enter, the storm which had been threatening for some time broke upon us all at once, tearing up the sea in its wildest fury, so that several times we were in great danger. The heavy squalls from off the high land at our right caused us to exercise the great- est caution in managing the little sail we were able to carry ; the rain was pouring down, and the white-caps tumbled into our boat, making it necessary to keep incessantly bailing; but finally, after much skillful management on the part of Mate Kogers as boat- steerer, v/o efTcctcd a safe landing at Cape Ood-loo-ong. Directly after landing I a.scendcd Harris Highlands,* to exam- ine the Countess of Warwick's Sound, when, to my vexation, I found that between us and Hazard's Land,f Oopungnewing, Ni- ♦ Tlie inoiintninnns land between Lincoln Bay nnd Victoria Bay I nnmeil Ilariis Highlands, after J. N. Harris, of New London, Connecticut. t The land on the north of the Conntess of Warwick's Sound, and east of Wis- well's Inlet, I named Hazard's Land, after A. G. Hazard, of Enfield, C^'inccticut. 560 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. ountelik, and Kodlunarn, all was packed ice, and in such a state that no boat could be forced through it. The presence of this ice is accounted for in this way : the heavy, incessant gale of July 24th and 25th had driven the pack hard on to the west side of Davis's Strait, and when, on August 2d, another gale prevailed, coming from the southeast, it drove the ratthng pack up into Fro- bisher Bay, filling it almost solid, except close inshore between Bear Sound and Victoria Bay. My hopes, therefore, to accom- plish what I designed in making this final trip were doomed to be disappointed ; but, while an opportunity remained for doing any thing, I determined to thoroughly examine the remarkable bay in which we then were — Victoria Bay — and its surroundings. This I did on the following day. The weather, however, was very bad, and it was with difficulty I could accomplish any thing at all. Then, too, we had to guard against being shut up in the pack ; and our critical situation became so evident that, on the morning of the 5th, we saw that to delay our return a moment longer would be sheer presumption. Accordingly, at an early hour, we started, the whole company in the boat (the two kias were left at Cape Ood-loo-ong) ; but we had not gone far before we met the pack drifting in with the tide, and blocking up our way. And now began the usual work of hauling the boat over ice, tracking her through narrow channels, turning now to the right, then to the left, going forward a while, then back to anoth- er opening, and cutting away obstructions. Several hours of heavy labor were consumed in lifting, push- TUB KSOAPE OVBB DBirTlNO PACK.— HY "LAST BIQUTH." THE ICE-PACK.— GOOD NEWS. 561 ing, and pulling our boat over several miles of driving, drifting, whirling, crashing, thundering ice. Ocoasionally, while my com- pany — both men and women — would be getting the boat upon an ice-floe, and dragging it along, the dogs and children accompany- ing, I would be busily engaged with my instruments taking my " last sights" of the principal places in and around the ever mem- orable " Countess of Warwick's Sound," which had been lost to the world for near three hundred years, but now was found. At last we got clear, arriving at open water, when we at once launch- ■ ed the boat and pushed off. From thence it was not long that we were on our way to Cape True, where we arrived in perfect safe- ty, though, within two hours after our arrival, the pack rihhed the whole coast, and we thus narrowly escaped being closed in the second time. Two days after our return, on Friday, August 8th, we were agreeably surprised, in the early morning, by the arrival of Cap- tain B in a boat direct from George Henry Harbor, in the upper part of Field Bay. He announced that the ship was near- ly free, and that the ice of Field Bay was all broken up, and much of it had drifted out to sea. His orders were for all hands to proceed immediately on board. This news caused immense joy. All was excitement. Tents were quickly struck, boats were made ready, and stowed with such of the material as we intended carrying on board, and in a very short time we were ready for a start. As for myself, I had to regret the loss of some of my geological specimens, which I was obliged to abandon here on account of their weight in the al- ready overloaded boat. At 4 A.M. we took our final leave of Cape True, after a friend- ly adieu to the people in that locality, with whom we had become so familiar. We struck direct for Hubbel's Point,* and soon aft- er was passing up Bear Sound. The day was calm and clear, and the boats had to be pulled nearly the whole way ; but no fatigue was felt while anticipating a speedy arrival on board the ship. At seven o'clock we were through Bear Sound, where the tide, as usual, was running very swiftly and strong, though it was in our favor. Many well-known spots were quickly passed, receiving our farewell, and we were soon through Lupton Channel, when we turned into Field Bay, which was seen to be nearly full of * Tliis point, on the west side nt the entrance of Bcnr Sound, I have named after Charles C. ITubbel, of Iludsot, New York. Nn 562 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. drift-ice, moving out and in with the tide, French Head, the scene of poor John Brown's death, was gazed upon with some saddening memories ; but the brightness of the day, and the hope before us of soon being under way for home, forbade much lin- gering on painful recollections. At 1 P.M. we passed Parker's Bay, and in an hour and a half more arrived at the ship, glad again to tread her decks, but more especially rejoiced to find her once more free. I went on shore immediately after to take some observations ; and then, upon my return on board, and after a supper of hard bread and salt junk, I started with a boat's crew down the north side of the bay to Farrington Cape, to bring off Ebierbing and Tookoolito, with their child. I had previously asked them sever- al times about accompanying me to the United States, and they had expressed a desire to do so. Now, however, the time for preparation was so short, and the evont, withal, so sudden to them, that I feared they would not like to come ; but on my ar- rival at their encampment, some seven miles down, I was agree- ably surprised, after some conversation, to find them prepared to make the venture. In less than an hour these children of the icy North had packed up their effects, and, together with their child and their fine seal-dog " Batty," were with us in the boat, ready to proceed on a voyage to a strange and distant land. My faithful dog Barbekark could not be forgotten nor left behind ; he was already aboard. The arrangement we had made was, that they should accompany me to the States, ana then on my voyage to King William's Land ; and that, if the ice would admit of it, on leaving the States and getting near their country, I would stop •with them to see their friends. The only objection they made was, that they were fearful they should lose their infant boy while on board the ship.* At the same time, Ugarng, "John Bull," Koodloo, and their wives, came along with us in their boats ; and many other Innuit families, from various places near the ship, with whom we had been acquainted, did the same. It was near midnight when we got on board, and I found every thing in readiness for the ves- sel's departure on the following morning. Saturday, the 9th of August, commenced with calm and clear weather. All were full of excitement. Every mart felt equal to * Tii1c-e-lik-e-ta^ tho infant child of Ebierbing and Tookoolito, died in New York City of pneumonia, on February 28th, 1 8G3. t TER-BOU-E-TIE.— HOMEWARD BOUND. 563 and ready for any amount of work. Eagerly was the word of command waited for. The ice had cleared away ; the ship was swinging lazily to her anchors, and all now required was to weigh them and spread sail. But there was no wind. This, for a time, made us hold on, until at length the captain, finding it use- less to wait longer for a breeze, gave the signal, and away went the windlass round to the mirthful notes of joyous men, as they hove in chain and lifted anchor once more. Soon the ship was clear, and then, with lines out, all the boats were manned to tow her down the bay. As we left the anchorage all our Innuit friends surrounded us, and with many words of kind regret again and again bade us " ter-bou-e-tie" (farewell). There were not a few among us who felt this partinw. We had received much and constant kindness at their hands, and the final adieu was not without those softer shades of feeling which generally characterize partings at home. ^^ Ter-bou-e-lie, //i-»i«-i<"— (l-uiunell, Innuit?). But now it is over. The vessel moves on her way. The kias and oomiens, with their occupants, gradually recede from our view, and with a last wave of the hands, a parting look, we turn our glances seaward, and allow our thoughts to be occupied only with home. During the morning we were compelled to use the boats in 564 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. towing, but in the afternoon made sail, though with a light, baf- fling breeze. In the evening, however, a fog came up, and at 11 P.M. we had to make fast to a floe. The weather continued the same next day until midnight; then, with a fresher breeze, we made all sail, and kept working through the ice for twenty-four hours, when at length we got clear, and were once more fairly at sea. It was a strange feeling I had when again experiencing the pe- culiar motion of a ship on the heaving, ever-restless bosom of the ocean. After being so long imprisoned in that ice-locked region, the sensation now was similar to what had come over me when taking my departure from home. But a few days soon put me to rights, and as the vessel made good way, my spirits rose buoyant over the temporary attack of sea-sickness, and I was myself again. On the 17th we were all delighted by the sight of four vessels, the first signs of civilization we had seen for twenty months. As we neared one of them bearing the English flag, an officer, with a boat's crew, was sent from our ship on board, to try to obtain some provisions, as we were living on very short allowance — three fifths of a pound of sea-biscuit per man per day, with a little salt junk and salt pork. Unfortunately we could get none, as the supercargo of the ship stated that they had no more than enough for themselves. Another ship was tried. She proved to be a Spanish vessel ; but a small quantity was obtained from her, and this was most acceptable. On the 21st we neared St. John's, Newfoundland, and it was considered advisable that we should visit that port to obtain .sup- plies, as all of us were nearly half staived. Of course, we made all the preparations we could in regard to our persons and our dress, for we were once more to mix with civilized beings. At 6 A.M. on the 23d, a pilot came on board, and, as soon as he had passed the gangway, I put the question, which is generally the first from an American's lips on ^ucli occasions, " Who is Presi- dent of the United States?" But so little did our affiiirs trouble this Newfoundlander that he cor.ld give us no information. I put the leading names to him, but still without efitet. He "did not know." This was mortifying, for I was naturally anxious to learn who had the ruling power in my native land ; but, seeing I could get no satisfactory reply, I turned aside, while the pilot con- versed with Captain B . Presently the latter came to me and said, CONCLUSION. 566 " So there's war, then, in reality, among us at home. The North and the South are fighting against each other." " What I" I exclaimed, in utter amazement; " what — war ? War in the United States, and amO''g ourselves P " True enough," was the response ; " at least so says our pilot." A few words with the pilot assured me of the main fact, though without informing me of any particulars, for he could give none. But the news was so astounding that I did not for a while recov- er from the shock. Bitter was the feeling that came over me on receipt of the intelligence, and I tried hard to doubt it, until doubt became impossible, especially when I landed and heard all the facts from our consul. This first news from home created a gen- eral gloom among us on board, and much of the joy which we should naturally have felt on reaching a civilized port was lost by reflecting upon the fact that so serious a calamity had fallen upon our beloved land. As we approached the harbor of St. John's the excitement among us was intense. The head became somewhat confused as it turned from one object to another in the vast and noisy assem- blage around us. But when the ship had dropped anchor and I had landed, the overpowering sensations that followed were more than I can describe. I was in a constant whirl. It seemed to me as if I were just coming from death into life, and it was with dif- ficulty I could manage to control myself in the society of the many kind and warm-hearted friends to whom I was soon intro- duced. The news of our arrival soon spread through the town, and many persons flocked around the ship to see •'s, all expressing much surprise at our robust and healthy appeanmce. My Innuit companions, Ebierbing and Tookoolito, with their infant, also at- tracted much attention. Every where on shore we were most hospitably received, and I shall never forget the names of those in St. John's who so warmly welcomed me. On first landing I immediately telegraphed my arrival to Mr. Grinnell and to my own home, and received replies in a few hours. We staid at St. John's until the 26th, when we made sail for New London, where we arrived on Saturday morning, September 13, .1862 ; and thus ended my voyage and explorations of two years and three and a half months in and about the arctic seas. 666 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. CHAPTER XXXVII. INNUIT OR ESQUIMAUX CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. The Innuit Name. — Chnracter of the People. — Their domestic Life. — Peculiar Cus- toms concerning Women. — Social and political Life. — Theological Ideas. — Be- lief in a God. — The Angekos. — Mingumailo and his two Wives. — His Rage against Koojesso. — Superstitious Customs of the Innuits. — Customs connected with Hunting. — Innuit Christmas and New Year. — Innuit Language. — Innuit Cos- tume. — Native Sagacity in studying Natural History. — Anecdotes of the Seal — of the Polar Bear. — Innuit Ingenuity. — Always ready in Emergencies. — Con- clusion. The race of people whom we denominate Esquimmix are, in their own language, called In-nu-il — that is, " the people." In-nu, in the singular number, signifies " man ;" in the plural, In-nu-it, "people," "the people," or (as they understand it) "our people," as distinguished from foreigaiers. The name Esquimaux is entire- ly foreign, and not to be interpreted from any elements hitherto found in their language. In illustration of its origin, a friend, who is philologically devoted, has favored the author with the fol- lowing suggestions : The appellation '^ Esquimaux^^ — of which the traders' term ^'Ilusky^^ is a mere corruption — is obviously derived from some Algic dialect, doubtless from the Chippeway or the Cree. The Cree language is very nearly the same as the Chippeway, the dif- ference being merely dialectic. In the Chippeway, ush-ke signifies " raw." In the same lan- guage, um-wau signifies " he eats." From these elements we read- ily form the word ush-ke-um-wau, " raw he eats." And a noun derived from this verb, as a national denomination, must be some such form as Aish-ke-um-oof/, " raw-fle.sh-eaters ;" the double o be- ing long, like oa in boat. Use has softened this name into Es-ke- moog (pronounced .Es-ke-moag) ; the sh of the Chippeway becom- ing simple s, it would seem, in the Cree. All that remains is the consideration that the French traders, of course, used the French orthography. According .to Innuit mythology, the^rs^ man was a failure — that is, was imperfect, though made by the Great Being; there- fore he was cast aside and called kob-lu-na, or kod-lu-na, as pro- nounced by the modern Innuits, which means white man. A sec- ^ INNUIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 557 ond attempt of the Great Being resulted in the formation of a per- fect man, and he was called In-nu. As a general statement, it may be said that the Innuits, among themselves, are strictly honest. The same may be said as be- tween them and strangers — that is, whites, though with some modification. The Innuits have an impression that the hodlunas (white people) possess plenty ; that is, plenty of iron, wood, beads, knives, needles, etc., which is the reason why the Innuits, when- ever they meet with whites, always cry ^^pil-e-tay! pil-e-layr (" give ! give 1") And the word kodlunas, in fact, signifies not only " white people,''^ but the people who always have plenty. I have no hesitation in saying that, as respects honesty, these unsophisti- cated people, the Innuits, do not suffer by a comparison with civ- ilized nations. While with the Innuits, I saw enough to convince me that they are a kind, generous people. ^ftjkB between themselves, there can be no people exceeding thenOn this virtue — kindness of heart. Take, for instance, times of great scarcity of food. If one family happens to have any provisions on hand, these are shared with all their neighbors. If one man is successful in capturing a seal, though his family may need it all to save them from the pangs of hunger, yet the whole of his people about, including the poor, the widow, the fatherless, are at once invited to a seal-feast. Though there is occasionally to be found among this people an evil person, yet, taken as a whole, they are worthy of great credit. They despise and shun one who will shao-la-voo ("tell a lie"). Hence they are rarely troubled by any of this class. Children are sometimes betrothed by their parents in infiincy. As Tookoolito says, " The young people have nothing to do with it" The old men make the marriage entirely. When the be- trothal is made, the couple can live together at any time, usually decided by the ability of the man to support the woman. In oth- er cases, when a young man thinks well of a young woman, ho proposes to take her for his wife. If both are agreed, and the parents of the girl consent, they become one. There is no wed- ding ceremony at all, nor are there any rejoicings or festivities. The parties simply come together, and live in theiro\frn tupic or igloo. It sometimes happens that two who are intended for each other live together as companions for a term of probation, always without consummating their marriage. It may happen, in such a case, that the trial develops a want of congeniality, or what is 568 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. called in a higher state of civilization " an incompatibility of tem- per." Then the two separate, and the woman returns to her par- ents. In all cases, love — if it come at all — comes after the mar- riage. There generally exists between husband and wife a steady, but not very demonstrative affection, though the woman is frequently subjected to violent usage by reason of some sudden outbreak of temper on the man's part, and though, when she is near her death, he leaves her alone to die. When a child is born, the mother is attended by one or more of her own sex ; even the husband is not allowed to be present. If it is a first child, the birth takes place in the usual tuple or ig- loo ;* if it is a second, or any other than the first, a separate tupic or igloo is built for the mother's use, and to that she must re- move. Male children are desired in preference to females, but no difference is made in their tre[|haent, and there are always re- joicings and congratulatory visira^when an infant is born. Im- mediately after the birth, the infant's head must be firmly squeezed side to side with the hands, and a little skin cap placed tightly over the compressed head, which is to be kept there for one year. This custom prevails throughout the region of Frobisher Bay, Field Bay, C. Grinnell Bay, Northumberland Inlet, and all places known to me and my Innuit informants. The infants are nursed until three or four years of age. The children, when old enough, find their amusement in playing with toys made of bone and ivo- ry in the forms of various animals. When older, the boys are ed- ucated in rowing, hunting, and sealing ; the girls are taught to trim the fire-light and keep it burning, to cook, dress leather, sew, help row the oomiens, and to do various other kinds of work. The women are not prolific. I believe they consider children troublesome. The race is fast dyir. j out. Not many years more and the " Innuit" will be extinct. The affection of the parents for their children is very great, and disobedience on the part of the latter is rare. The parents never inflict physical chastisement upon the children. If a child does wrong — for instance, if it becomes enraged, the mother says noth- ing to it till it becomes calm. Then she talks to it, and with good effect. * There is an occasional exception to this rule, as in the case of Tookoolito. She was obliged to have a separate tupic. Thi3 was so ordered by the angeko, because of Ebicrbing's sickness. N.y' INNUIT CIIAUACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. gQQ On Saturday, February 28, 1863, the infant son of Ebierbing and Tookoolito died in New York, aged eighteen months. The loss was great to both of them, but to the mother it was a terrible blow. For several days after its death she was unconscious, and for a part of the time delirious. When she began to recover from this state she expressed a longing desire to die, and be with her lost 2\ik-e-lik-e-ta. The child was greatly beloved by both of the parents. In truth — I must be allowed to diverge here for a mo- ment — there was cause for their great affection, and reason for pe- culiar grief on the part of the bereaved mother. I never saw a more animated, sweet-tempered, bright-looking child. Its imita- tiveness was largely developed, and was most Ihgaging. Tuke- liketa was a child to be remembered by all who ever saw him. For a certain length of time after a child is born the mother must remain in her own home, visiting no other tupic or igloo. The period for which this limitation holds good varies, sometimes reaching to the length of two months. At the expiration of the time she makes a round of calls at all the dwellings about, hav- ing first changed all her clothing. She never touches again that which she throws off" on this occasion, and which she has worn since the birth of the child. Another custom forbids the mother to eat by herself for a year after the birth of the child. When asked the reason of this, Tookoolito only said, "The first Innuits did so." In respect to Innuit customs in general, it may be ob- served that they are often adhered to from fear of ill report among their people. The only reason that can be given for some of the present custoips is that " the old Innuits did so, and therefore they must." Another custom in relation to their females is this : At certain periods separation igloos are built for them. The woman must live secluded for so many days, and it would be a great offense for her to enter into any other tupic or igloo during this time. On one occasion, while on my sledge-journey in the middle of Frobisher Bay, and at the place of the tenth and nine- teenth encampments, I met Sampson, his wife, and family pro- ceeding to another encampment. While I was talking with them the wife asked me for something to eat. I was surprised at this, for I knew that Sampson's family were generally well provided with food. But an explanation followed. I was told that the In- nuit custom is for females, at certain times, not to partake of cer- tain kinds of Innuit food. In this case, Sampson's wife bad been 570 AUCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. nearly a week without eating, and was very hungry. I gave her what little I had of pemmican. She insisted on my taking some- thing for it, thrusting into my hands twelve miniature ducks and other sea-birds, carved in walrus ivory. These I retain as me- mentoes of the occasion. The women, generally, are tattooed on the forehead, cheeks, and chin. This is usually a mark of the married women, though un- married ones are sometimes seen thus ornamented. This tattoo- ing is done from principle, the theory being that the lines thus made will be regarded in 'the next world as a sign of goodness. The banner of the operation is simple. A piece of reindeer-sinew thread is blacldfced with .soot, and is then drawn under and through the skin by means of a needle. The thread is only used as a means of introducing the color or pigment under the epi- dermis. The longevity of this people, on the whole, in latter years is not great. The average duration of life among them is much less than formerly. The time was, and that not long ago, when there were many, very many old people, but now they are very few. Old Ookijoxy Ninoo, as I have already mentioned, once observed to me that there were no Innuits now living who were young when she was. She was, as I believe, over 100 years old when I saw her. She died a few months after my departure for the States. I learned this last fall (1863) by one of the American whalers, who saw her son Ugarng at Northumberland Inlet two months previous. The Innuit social life is simple and cheerful. They have a va- riety of games of their own. In one of these they use a number of bits of ivory, made in the form of ducks, etc., such as Samp- son's wife gave me, as just mentioned. In another, a simple string is used in a variety of intricate ways, now representing a tuktoo, now a whale, now a walrus, now a seal, being arranged upon the fingers in a way bearing a general resemblance to the game known among us as "cat's cradle." The people were very quick in • learning of me to play chess, checkers, and dominoes. If an Innuit stranger come among them, an eflfort is made to conform as closely as possible to the manners of the section from which he comes, for it should be observed that there exists a great diversity of manners and habits among the people of different re- gions not very far separated from each other. Though in old times there were chiefs among the Innuits, there INNUIT CIIARACTEU, CUSTOMS, ETC. 571 are none now. There is absolutely no political organization among them. In every community, with them as with all the rest of the world, there is some one who, in consideration of his age, shrewdness, or personal prowess, is looked up to, and whose opinions are received with more than usual deference; but he has no authority whatever, and an Innuit is subject to no man's con- trol. * The people are not naturally quarrelsome, and theft and murder are almost unknown. When a quarrel arises, the two parties keep aloof from each other, sometimes for a long time. Sometimes, however, a mutual and elderly friend arranges tlie matter, and then a quiet talk often shows that the quarrel — with them as with us — was the result of an entire misunderstanding of words reported by gossiping tongues. If a murder is committed, it appears, from what the Innuits say, that the nearest relative or most intimate friend of the slain has a right to kill the murderer ; but this crime is very rare. Innuit opinions upon theological questions are not easily ob- tained in an intelligible form. Their belief on some points may thus be very generally stated : There is one Supreme Being, call- ed by them Ang-u-ta, who created the earth, sea, and heavenly bod- ies. There is also a secondary divinity, a woman, the daughter of Anguta, who is called Skl-ne. She is supposed to have created all things having life, animal and vegetable. She is regarded also as the protecting divinity of the Innuit people. To her their sup- plications are addressed ; to her their offerings are made ; while most of their religious rites and superstitious observances have reference to her. The Innuits believe in a heaven and a hell, though their no- tions as to what is to constitute their happiness or misery here- after are varied as one meets with different communities. Too- koolitosays: ** My people think this way : Kood-le-par-mi-ung (heaven) is up- ward. Every body happy there. AH the time light ; no snow, no ice, no storms ; always pleasant ; no trouble; never tired; sing and play all the time — all this to continue without end. "^c?-/e-;3ar-we-wn (hell) is downward. Always dark there. No sun ; trouble there continually ; snow flying all the time ; terri- ble storms ; cold, very cold ; and a great deal of ice there. All who go there must always remain. "All Innuits who have been good go to Koodleparmiung ; that is, who have been kind to the poor and hungry — all who have 572 ARCTIC UESKAUCII EXPEDITION. boeii happy while living on this earth. Any ono who has been killed by accident, or who has comniitted suicide, certainly goes to the happy place. "All Innnits who have been bard — that is, unkind ono to an- otlier — all who have been unhapj))' while on this earth, will go to Adleparnieun. If an Innuit kill another because ho is mad at him, he certainly will go to Adlcparmcun." They have a tradition of a deluge, which they attribute to an umisnaJhj high tide. On ono occasion, when I was speaking with Tookoolito concerning her people, she said, "Innuits all think this earth once covered with water." I asked her why tliey thought so. She answered, " Did you never see little stones, like clams and such things as live in the sea, away up on the mountains?" The subject of the religious ideas and observances of the In- nuits is nearly connected with that of their angckos, who have a great influence among these people, and exercise the only author- ity to which they in any degree submit. With regard to these angekos, it ajipeared to me that man or woman could become such if shrewd enough to obtain a mental ascendency over others. The angcko's business is twofold : he ministers in behalf of the sick, and in behalf of the community in general. If a person falls ill the aiigeko is sent for. He comes, and, before proceeding to his peculiar work, demands payment for his services, stating his price, usually some article to which he has taken a liking. Whatever he demands must bo given at once, otherwise the expected good result of the miiiistration would not follow. When the preliminary arrangements have been satisfactorily disposed of, the family of the sick person sit around the couch of the patient, and with earnestness and gravity join in the cere- monies. The angcko commences a talking and singing, the na- ture of which it is impossible to state more precisely than to say that it seems to be a kind of incantation or prolonged supplica- tion, perhaps mingled with formulas which are supposed to charm away the disease. At intervals during this performance the fam- ily respond, frequently uttering a word corresponding to our amen. As to medicine, none is ever prescribed, nor do the In- jg, nuits ever take any. The duties of the angeko, with reference to the community, con- sist in ankooting for success in whaling, walrusing, sealing, and in hunting certain animals ; for the disappearance of ice, and for the public good in various particulars. These more public min- INNUIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 573 istrations arc accompanied by what sounds to a stranger's ear like liowling,but is doubtless 0. formula, citlier handed down by tradi- tion, or comiioscd on the spot by the angeko, varying according to the talent of the operator. Some descriptions oi ankooting have been given in the body of this work. Even Tookoolito was not exempt from the general belief in the efficacy of the angcko's ministrations. One day, when visiting her, I found that she had j)artcd with her cooking-pan, which she had always considered indispensable and of great value. On in- quiry, I learned that she had given it to "Jennie," a female an- geko, in payment for her attendance upon Ebierbing when sick; and, moreover, she had in like manner given nearly all her valu- able things, even to some of her garments. I was hardly aston- ished, for I knew that the Innuits considered that in proportion to the value of what they give for an angcko's services, so are tlie benefits conferred upon the sick. "Make poor jjay, and the lielp is poor; good pay, and the benefit is great." On one occasion (it was at the time wo were about to start for the States, but were suddenly frozen in at the commencement of the second winter), having seen the angeko very busy ankooting on the hills, I asked Ebierbing and Tookoolito what it was for. They replied, "To try and get the pack-ice out of the bay." It may be remarked here that this attempt to get the ice out of the bay was caused by the desire of the Innuits to have the (Jconje Henry leave the country, they having become tired of the pres- ence of the sailors, and being, perhaps, somewhat jealous of them. On the occasion referred to, the angeko had told the people that on a certain day they were not to do any work. Then, in the evening, he commenced his incantations; and on that day it had been noticed by the ship's company that the Innuits went on board the vessel in their best attire, though no one then knew the cause. The general deference to the wishes of the angeko has some exceptions, though they are rare. One such exception was this: One day in the month of July, 1861, the angeko Mingumailo, who had two wives, sent them from his tupic among the mountains to Koojesse, who was then staying at Cape True, with an order for an exchange of wives. Now Koojesse's wife, Tutiukderlien — " Is- abel," fls we sometimes called her — was something of a belle, and, though Koojesse had been a good disciple of the angeko, he would not now yield to his demands. He refused to exchange 574 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. bis Tunukderlien for either of the two wives sent for his choice, and the latter returned to their husband. Thereupon the ange- ko became so enraged that he immediately came from the mount- ains, and entered the village of tupics like a demon. He first tried to negotiate a peaceable exchange, and then attempted by threats to effect what he wanted. With a loaded musket and a large knife, he prowled all night long around Koojesse's tupic, trying to take his life ; but Koojesse had been warned, and finally took up his abode in one of the white men's tents near by. The' next day Mate Sogers arrived, and the angeko, fearing him, fled away to his haunt in the mountains. Another instance of inattention to the angeko's advice I will relate here. One of the former husbands of Suzhi was sick. The angeko said Kokerjabin, who was at that time the wife of Sampson, must live with the invalid husband for two or three months, or be would die before spring. All the Innuits thought the angeko should be obeyed, but Kokerjabin refused to comply, declaring that she did not believe what the angeko said. Before spring, Suzhi's busbai d died as the angeko predicted, and there- fore all the people despised Kokerjabin. I will now mention various customs which have relation to the religious belief of the Innuits, though many of them can be ex- plained only by the broad phrase, "The first Innuits did so." When they kill a reindeer, and have skinned it, they cut off bits of different parts of the animal, and bury them under a sod, or some moss, or a stone, at the exact spot- where the animal was killed. When an Innuit passes the place where a relative has died, he pauses and deposits a piece of meat near by. On one oc- casion, when traveling with Sharkey, I saw him place a bit of seal under the snow near an island which we were passing. When I questioned him, be said that it was done out of respect for the memory of an uncle who bad died there. When a child dies, every thing it has used, either as a play- thing or in any work it did, is placed in or upon its grave. When Tukeliketa, Tookoolito's boy, died in this country, some weeks after the mother collected all his playthings and put them upon bis grave.* Visiting the spot some time after, she found that one article, a gajdy-p'ainted little tin pail, had been taken away, and her grief was severe at the discovery. In March, 1862, while I ♦ The remains of Tukeliketa rest in Groton, Connecticut, In tlic biirinl-ground near the rosidonco of Captain Budington. INNUIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 575 was in the Northern country, the wife of Annawa found beneath the tuktoo bed of their recently - deceased child a toy game-ba»T, A consultation among the Innuits who were then th'^re was held, and the bag, together with all the articles that had been present- ed to the child by the ship's hands from time to time, consisting of powder, shot, caps, tobacco, and a pistol, was deposited at the grave of their beloved boy. There exist also among the Innuits many curious customs con- nected with hunting. They can not go out to take walrus until they have done working upon tuktoo clothing; and after begin- ning the walrus hunt, no one is allowed to work on reindeer skips. One day in March, I wanted Tookoolito and Koodloo's wife to make me a sleeping-bag of tuktoo skin ; but nothing could per- suade them to do it, as it was then walrus season. They " would both die, and no more walrus could be caught." When a walrus is caught, the captor must remain at home, do- ing no work, for one day ; if a bear is killed, he must remain qui- et, in like manner, for three days ; after the taking of a whale, two days. If, however, he is on a hunt and game is plenty, the Innuit frequently keeps on at the sport, making up all his resting days at the end of the hunt. When a seal is captured, a few drops of water are sprinkled on • its head before it is cut up. If there is no water to be had, the man holds snow in his hand till he squeezes out a single drop, the application of which answers every purpose. Women are not allowed to eat of the first seal of the season, and this rule is so strictly enforced that they do not feel at liberty even to chew the blubber for the sake of expressing the oil. When Tunukderlien and Jennie were with mc on my sledge- journey up Frobisher Bay, the first seal of the season was caught, and Henry was obliged to pound the blubber to obtain the oil we needed, because the women were not allowed to do it. There is a regular order for cutting up a walrus. The first man who arrives at the captured animal cuts off the right arm or flip- per ; the second, the left arm ; the third, the right leg or flipper* the fourth, the left leg ; the fifth, a portion of the body, beginning at the neck, and so on till the whole is disposed of. One very curious custom among the Innuits is this : At a time of the year .apparently answering to our Christmas, they have a general meeting in a large igloo on a certain evening. There the angeko prays on behalf of the people for the public prosperity 576 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXrEDITION. through the subsequent year. Then follows something like a feast. The next day all go out into the open air and for.a in a circle ; in the centre is placed a vessel of water, and each member of the company brings a bit of meat, the kind being immaterial. The circle being formed, each person eats his or her meat in si- lence, thinking of Sidne, and wishing for good things. Then one in the circle takes a cup, dips up some of the water, all the time thinking of Sidne, and drinks it; and then, before passing the cup to another, states audibly the time and the place of his or her birth. This ceremony is performed by all in succession. Final- ly, presents of various articles are thrown from one to another, with the idea that each will receive of Sidne good things in pro- portion to the liberality here shown. Soon after this occasion, at a time which answers to our New Year's day, two men start out, one of them being dressed to rep- resent a woman, and go to every igloo in the village, blowing out the light in each. The lights are afterward rekindled from a fresh fire. When Tookoolito was asked the meaning of this, she re- plied, " New sun — new light," implying a belief that the sun was, at that time renewed for the year. When one of these meetings and outdoor cer'mionies took place, I was absent from the village where most >. " my Innuit friends were living. Koojesse, Sharkey, and others wisned to have me sent for, thinking I would like to be present; but old Artark- paru objected, fearing that I should grow weary before the cere- mony was complete, and, retiring from the circle, break the charm. So I was not sent for, but was obliged to gain my information from the natives. The language of this people is peculiar to themselves. They have nothing written, and all that they can tell is derived from oral tradition, handed down from parent to child for many gener- ations. The pronunciation of the same words by Esquimaux liv- ing a considerable distance apart, and having little intercourse, is so different that they can hardly understand each other on com- ing together. It was with the greatest difficulty that the Innuits who came to Field Bay from Sekoselar, or any other place on the northern shores of Hudson's Strait, could make themselves understood by Innuits residing north of them. Sometimes Innu- its arrive from Igloolik (which is at the entrance to the Strait of Fury and Ilecla), at Northumberland Inlet, and it takes a long time for the two parties to understand each ether. Still more dif- •/ INNUIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 577 ficult is it for a Greenland native to be understood by those on the west side of Davis's Strait. The Innuits with whom I was acquainted could count only ton, as follows : At-tou-sen, one. Muk-ko, two. Ping-a-su-it, three. Tes-sa-men, four. Ted-la-men, five. Ok-bin-er-poon, six. Mok-ke-nik, seven. Ping-a-su-nik, eight. Tes-sa-men-ik, nine. Kood-lin, ten. However, there was this exception : Koooulearng (Suzhi), whose native place was on the north side of Hudson's Strait, could count to twenty. She said that all the people of her country — meaning Kar-mo-wong, which is on the north side of the strait — could do the same. By signs — that is, by throwing open the fingers, In- nuits every where can and do count much larger numbers. The dress of the Innuits is made of the skins of reindeer and of seals ; the former for winter, the latter for summer. The jack- et is round, with no opening in front or behind, but is slipped on and off over the head. It is close-fitting, but not tight. It comes as low as the hips, and has sleeves reaching to the wrists. The women have a long tail to their coat reaching nearly to the ground. These jackets are often very elaborately ornamented. In one of my visits to Sampson, I noticed that his wife's jacket was trimmed thus : Across the nv;ck of the jacket was a fringe of beads — eighty pendents of red, blue, black, and white glass beads, forty beads on each string. Bowls of Britannia metal tea-spoons and table-spoons were on the flap hanging in front. A row of elongated lead shot ran around the border of the tail. Six pairs of federal copper cents, of various dates, were pendant down the mid- dle of the tail ; and a huge brass bell, from an old-fashioned clock, was at the top of the row of cents. On another occasion, Tweroong, the wife of Miner, came on board with a dress made of the fur of very young deer, with a spencer of reindeer hair cut off short, and so evenly that I could not well understand how it was done. I made her a present of a lady's hand dressing-glass, which sent her into ecstasies, especially when she found it would enable her better to arrange her hair. All the jackets have a hood made at the back for carrying their children or covering their heads in cold weather. In winter they wear two jackets: the exterior one with the hair outside, the in- ner one with the hair next to the body. Before the men enter into the main igloo they take off the outer part of their jackets, Oo 678 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. and place the same in a recess made in the snow wall of Lho pas- sage-way. , Their breeches reach below the knee, and arc fastened with a string drawn tightly around the lower part of t iC waist. Those worn by the women arc put on in throe iDicccs, each leg and the body forming separate parts. The fall winter dress for the feet consists of, 1st. Long stockings of reindeer fur, with the hair next the person ; 2d. Socks of the eider duck skins, with the feathers on and inside ; 3d. Socks of sealskin, with the hair outside ; -ith. Kumings [native boots], with legs of tuktoo, the fur outside, and the soles of ookgook. All wear mittens, though the women generally wear only one, and that on the right hand ; the left is drawn within the sleeve. Finger-rings and head-bands of polished brass also form part of the female costume. The Innuits show a re- markable sagacity in stud- ying the habits of their animals, and gaining there- from lessons of value for their own guidance. They observe how the seal con- structs its igloo or snow hut, and their own winter dwelling is formed upon this model. The accom- panying illustration gives a sectional view of a seal's hole and igloo, with the young one lying within, and the mother coming up to visit it. By the time the sun melts off the cov- ering snow, exposing and destroying the dome of the igloo, the young seal is NO. 1, 8ECTI0KAL VIEW OF SEAL U01.B AM> bKAL lULlH).* * The horizontal lines extending across the lower ])art of the engraving represent the sea-water, us do the short lines running in the same direction within the seal hole which is through the ice. Tlie ice is represented by the perpendicular lines on either side of the seal hole. Resting on the ice are a young seal and the igloo, the latter shown by the dark half circle. On either side and above the igloo is the snow V INNUIT CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, ETC. 579 :^ ready to take care of itself. *' The second engraving rep- resents a seal that lias just come up through the wa- ter to its brcathing-liole, which is covered by snow. Above it sits an Iniuiit, who has pierced the snow with his spear just over the seal's hole in the ice, and who watches till he hears the animal puff, then quick- ly and almost unerring\_^ strikes. From the polar bear, too, I he Innuits learn much. The manner of approach- ing the seal which is on the ice by its hole basking in the sunshine is from him. The bear lies down and crawls by hitches toward covering the sea-ice. Before the Iploo is made, the prospective motlicr, to get licr- sclf upon the ice, scratches away the inverted tunuel-like-slinped ice, as seen in the second engraving. Tiie igloo is then made by the seal scratching an excavation from the snow with the sharp, lady-like nails with which its fore fii])pers arc armed, tlie excavated snow being taken down beneath tiio thick ice from time to time by the sell. Soon after tliis house is jirepared a little seal is born. Seal igloos are made about the 1st of Aiiril, the time when the "])up])ing" season commences. None but very sharp-scented animals can iiiul these igloos, and they are the seals' worst enemies. These animals are the jmlar bear, the fox, and the seal-dog. The latter, however, siin])ly scent out the igloo, leaving the master to catch the game, while the bear and fox not only find, but capture it. AVhen the dog has led his mas- ter to the secret seal lodge beneath the snow, the man retreats from fifteen to twen- ty paces, and then runs forward swiftly, leajiing high and far on concluding his race. As he comes down he crushes in the dome, and (piickly thrusts his seal hook this way and that around in the igloo, till ho Las the young seal quivering in the agonies of death. * The water, ice, and snow of the second engraving are represented in like man- ner as in the preceding one. The appearance of the seal hole, and the bed of snow above, as they are during the winter season till about the 1st of April, is well repre- sented. The. sealer is awaiting the seal's blow. It is time he was up and ready to strike, for as soon as a seal has its nose out of the water, as the one here represent- ed, its puffing noise is heard. When the sealer, by the aid of his dopr, has foimd the seal hole, he has sometimes to watch there two or three days and nights. The dog KO. •-', BLCTIU.NAI. VlliW Ol' bli.VL llOUS.* 580 ARCTIC UESEAliCU EXI'EDITION. the seal, "talking" to it, as the Inriuits say, till ho is 'within strik- ing distance, then he pounces upon it with a single jump. The natives say that if they could "talk" as well as the bear, they could catch many more seals. The procedure of the bear is as follows : lie proceeds very cau- tiously toward the black speck far off on the ice, which he knows to be a seal. "When still a long way from it, he throws himself down on his side, and hitches himself along toward his game. The seal meanwhile is taking its naps of about ten seconds each, ultimately raising its head and surveying the entire horizon be- fore composing itself again to brief slumber. As soon as it raises its head the bear " talks," keeping perfectly still. The seal, if it see^ any thing, sees but the head, which it takes for that of an- other seal. It sleeps again. Again the bear hitches himself along, and once more the seal looks around, only to be " talked" to again and again deceived. Thus the pursuit goes on till the seal is caught, or till he makes his escape, which it seldom does. In Chapter XXXII. there occurs a description of the manner in which a young seal is often used to lure the mother within striking distance of the hunter. This is copied by the Innuits from the habits of the polar bear. This animal finds by his keen scent where a seal's igloo has been built under the snow. lie then goes back a little distance, runs and jumps with all his weight upon the dome, breaks it down, and immediately thrusts in his paw and seizes the young seal. Then, holding it by one of its hind flippers, he scoops away all the snow from the seal hole lead- ing up through the ice into the igloo, and afterward allows the young one to flounder about in the water. When the old seal comes up, the bear draws the young one slyly on toward him, till the anxious mother gets within reach, when he seizes her with his other paw. The natives tell many most interesting anecdotes of the bear, has indicated the precise point within n circle of about ten inches in diameter. Tiie sealer, therefore, thrusts the spindle of his seal-spear down through the hard snow, seeking to find the breathing-liole, wiiich is not more than one to two inches in di- ameter. After pcrha])s a dozen attempts, he finally strikes the hole. Now he care- fully withdraws his sjiear, and marks with his eye the hole, which leads down through perhaps eighteen to twenty-four inches depth of snow. When now he hears the seal, he raises his spear, and strikes unerringly through the snow to the seal's head. The animal at once dives, and runs out the full length of the line, one end of which is fast in the hand of the sealer. He proceeds to cut away the deep snow, and to chisel the ice so as to enlarge the top of the seal hole, from which he soon draws forth his prize. INNUIT CIIAUACTlill, CUSTOMS, ETC. 581 showing tliat. tbey arc accustomed to watch liis movements close- ly, lie has a very ingenious way of killing the walrus, which is representoil in the accompanying engraving. ^3^«|; rOLAIi IIKAU KII.LINU A WALKUH, In August, every fine day, the walrus makes his way to the shore, draws liis huge body up on the rocks, and basks in the sun. If this happen near the base of a clifl", the ever-watchful bear takes advantage of the circumstance to attack this formida- ble game in this way: The bear mounts the cliff, and throws .down upon the animal's head a large rock, calculating the distance and the curve with astonishing accuracy, and thus crushing the thick, bullet-proof skull. If the walrus is not instantly killed — simply stunned — the bear rushes downi to the walrus, seizes the rock, and hammers away at the head till the skull is broken. A fat feast follows. Unless the bear is very hungry, it eats only the blubber of the walrus, seal, and whale. The bear can catch a seal in the water. He sees it, drops his body beneath the surface, allowing only his head to be visible, that having the appearance of a piece of ice. AVhilc the seal has 582 AllCTIC RESEAUCU EXPEDITION. its head abovo water, and is looking around, the bear sinks, swims under it, and clutches it from beneath. When the sea-ice begins to make, wo will say about the middle of October to the 1st of November, the female bear captures and kills several seals, which she hides away among the hummocks. Then she retires to the land and eats moss, tiie object being to produce an internal mechanical obstruction called " tappcn." After this she goes to her deposits of meat, and feasts upon seal- blubber to her utmost limit of expansion. She is now ready for retiring to her winter's home, which is generally an excavation she has " chiseled out" of a glacier. Some time after entering she brings forth her young, which sometimes number one, more fre- quently two, and sometimes three. In this crystal nursery she continues exercising her progeny daily by walking them to and fro till about tlie 1st of April, at which time seals begin to bring forth their young. The bear family then walks forth, the matron snufhng the air. Perhaps it is charged with seal-scent. She then follows up the scent till it brings her to a seal igloo. When she is satisfied that all is right below, she prepares herself, gives a fear- ful leap — high and far — striking forcibly with her paws upon the roof, crushing it in, and seizing the young occupant of the house, soon making of it a dainty feast for the young polars. It is a custom among the Innuits, dating from time immemo- rial, that whoever first sees a Ninoo is entitled to the skin, no matter whether the fortunate person be man, woman, or child. If the captured bear is a male, his bladder, witli certain instru- ments belonging to the men, must be j)laced for thite days on the top of the igloo or tupic. If the bear be a female, her bladder, with one of the women's brass head-ornaments and some beads, must be hung in like manner. Tlie Innuits show a remarkable degree of ingenuity in all the operations of life, and an astonishing readiness in emergencies. They thoroughly know their waters and coasts. An illustration of this is shown in the accompany ing/ac-s«mi7e of a chart made by Kooperneu.ng, which I have in my possession. When traveling with a sledge they are accustomed to coat the bottom of the runners with ice, thus making a shoe which is smoother than any thing else that could be invented. The man- ner of performing this operation is curious. The sledge is turned bottom up, and the Innuit fills his mouth with water in which has been mingled a little seal's blood, in order to give it tenacity. He '*,\' INNUIT CIIABACTliU, CUSTOMS, ETC. 583 ESQUIMAUX CHART, No. 2, VtKVrV BY KOOPKBNEUNU (dllABLEY) WIIILB Wl WEAK AT OAPE TRCB, ACOrBT, 1903. "c^^ ^J\ '{s O H A. FrobishcrBny. B. Countess of Warwick's Sound. C. Ltipton Channel, whicli leads down to Bear Sound. On the riRlit is Lok's Land ; on the left, Bache's Peninsula. D. Cyras W. Field Bay. E. Cornelius Grinnoll Bay. F. Robinson Sound. G. Resolution Isles. H. Hudson's Strait. X. Capo True, on Blunt's Peninsula. y v 684 ARCTIC RESEARCH EXPEDITION. then Bends it out in a fine, well - directed, and evenly • applied stream upon the runner, where it at once congeals. When, after some hours' travel, the coating is worn away, it is renewed in the same manner. But the vpestion naturally arises. How can the water be carried without freezing? The Innuit does this by fill- ing a bag of sealskin or ookgook bladder, and slipping it down be- tween his shoulders, under his clothing, the warmth of his body keeping it liquid. Once, while I was on a sledge-journey with Koojesse, I was suf- fering from thirst, and we had no water. KoojcsSc turned aside, and went olf with his seal-spear upon a little fresh-water pond. I knew that the ice there would naturally be ten feet thick at that season, and therefore wondered how he expected to find water. After looking about carefully for some time, he selected a place where the snow seemed to be very deep, and there, after clearing it away, he struck with his spear upon the ice, and very soon made a hole through which he obtained water. When I inquired about it, 1 learned that a heavy body of snow falling upon the ice would press it down, allowing the wuter to come up and collect above it. The surface of this collected water would freeze, form- ing a comparatively thin coating of ice, but leaving a reservoir of water inclosed, which could be easily reached, as I found to my relief On another occasion, while traveling in a bitter cold day, facing a cutting breeze, I found great difficulty in keeping the lower parts of my body from freezing. The Innuits saw me trying to shield myself and gain additional warmth by adjusting a thickly- folded scarf; this they took from me, made it into a girdle, and tied it tightly round my body just above the hips. This restored warmth to me at once, and warded off the danger of freezing. APPENDIX. I. Tlie Present of the llescue. — Pago 20. This truly noble net was doiiu at tlic siitJKcsiion of Henry (Jriiinrll. llo first con. ueivcil tlic idea; proposed it to tiiu United Stiites novernnient ; afterward, nt tlic iir- Kcnt recjuest of tiio Secretary of State, Mr. Marey, cordially co-operating with it in the matter, and fnrnishiiiK the most vuliialile assistance, Mis (,'enerous lalxiis in he- hulf of this important iiroject, already acknowledged in u highly thiitcrinK nminier by England, nro too well known to require from mo more tlmu this passing trihiite. II. Sums j)iii(i on Account of the Arctic Research Expedition, — Page DO. It is but justice to record here the fact that the following parties made out their bills, as below, for articles sold to the expedition at cost or less than cost price. 1800, •Afay 22. James Green, of New York, 2 self-registering thermometers .*3 00 " " Anson Baker & Co., of New York, (i guns, 1 rille, duplicate locks, etc 1,")'.) 00 " 23. John II. Brower & Co., New York, 2:12 IbM. Borden's meat-biscuit ;!0 00 '• " Stack])ole and Brother, New York, jiocket .sextant, artificial hori- zon, mercury, and 2 pocket com]insscs 58 ."jO " 24. G.W. Rogers, New London, Conn., cxi)edition boat 10.". 00 " *' Wytte & Co., Cincinnati, O., meat for pcmmiean 171 oO " " Geo. II. Hill &, Co., Cincinnati, O., beef suet for iiemmiean .V.> r.O '■ " n. W. Stevenson, Cincinnati, O., meat cans 10 50 " " Hall's expenses from Cincinnati to I'hiladeliitiia, Now York, and New London, and return (in February and March, 18C>0) 5,") 00 " " 1 cord of wood for drying meat 5 00 " " Man for attending to drying meat 8 00 '• " \V. E. Alcorn, Cincinnati, O., canvas for sledge 2 00 " " Brooks & Co., Cincinnati, O., carpenters' work 5 50 " Sundries, express hire, etc .' 22 00 " 2G. Cooper and Pond, New York, pistol, percussion cnjis, etc 19 00 '• 27. N. D. Smith, New London statii)ncry $3 77) « „,, 9 pocket-knives.. i5»2 25) " 28. Arnold and Beebe, New London, suit of sails and awning for boat 20 00 " " J. & G. W. Crandcir, New London, woolen shirts 7 00 '■ " L. Corthell, New London, 200 lbs. lead 10 00 " " Samuel Dennis, of New London, knives, etc., 10 00 " 29. Shepard & Harris, of New London, clothing, etc 45 51 Carried over $805 03 58tl APPENDIX. 1800. Brought over $805 03 May 29. IIiirri«, Williams & Co., New London, in\)cs and tobacco 20 00 " " Anson Clmse, New London, shot, powder-flasks, shot - pouches, caps, etc 40 98 " " 1). B. Ilcinpsted, Now London, bends and marine glass 13 0(1 " '' Smith & Grace, New London, "conjurer," etc 3 28 " " J. U. Curry & Co., New London, " Resolute" sextant 20 .50 Nautical Almanacs, Indin-rubher clu.rt cover, freight bill, hotel bill, team of dogs bought at Ilolsteinborg, Greenland .'")2 2.") Sundry expenses „ 24 90 Total $980 00 Donations to the Avclk Research Exjiedilion, 1800. • Henry Grinnell, N. Y i|;U;5 00 i B. Matlack, Cincinnati, O |30 00 Augustus n. Ward, N. Y 100 00 John IM'Lean, Cincinnati, 30 00 Cyrus W. Field, N. Y .'"<0 00 Bcnj. Kgglcslon, Cincinnati, O. . 30 00 K, M. Bishop, Cincinnati, O .'U) 00 ; Mitchell & Hammelsberp, Cinn., Miles Greenwood, Cincinnati, O. 30 00 ! Ohio 30 00 George II. Hill, Cincinnati, O. . . 30 00 I ScUcw & Co., Cincinnati, O .I 00 John D. Jones, Cincinnati, 30 00 i Mr. Lincoln, Cincinnati, 10 00 John \V. Kllis, Cincinnati, O. . . . 30 00 [ Jose]))! K. Smith, Cincinnati, O. . r, 00 Geo. Dominick, Cincinnati, 0.. . 30 00 Col. John Johnston, Cincinnati. . 10 00 Jacob Hesor, Cincinnati, () 30 00 [ J. Ogdcn, Cincinnati, () .5 00 Wynne, Hayncs & Co., Cinn., O. 30 00 William Wiswell, Cincinnati, O. 30 00 James Lupton, Cincinnati, O 30 00 A. G. W. Carter, Cincinnati, O! . 5 00 Jlrs. C. F. Hall, Cincinnati, O. . . 27 00 Total #980 00 Williams & Haven, of New London, Conn., passage out in the bark "George Henrv," and transjiort of cx]iedition boat, stores, etc. Free |)assagc home of myself, with a family of Esquimaux, consisting of man, wife, and child. Hazard Powder Co., New York, 2,")0 lbs. rifle powder. Marshall Lcflcrts, New York, 800 lbs shot. J. N. Harris, New London, Conn., hardware, $22. F. L. Knecland, New York, keg of rifle powder. Thomas H. Bates & Co., New York, fi.sh-hooks, 9 m. needles, and 2 dozen sewing- cushions. M'Allister & Brother, Philadelphia, spy-glass. J. & B. Bruce. Cincinnati, O., making sledge. Rover, Simonton & Co., Cincinnati, O., furnishing material for sledge. George T. Jones & Thomas H. Newell, Cincinnati, O., 2 blank journal books made of bank-note paper. Hanilen & Smith, Cincinnati, O., 1 dirk and n tooth extractor. Dr. O. E. Newton and Allen & Sons, Cincinnati, O., chest of medicines. C. F. Bradley, Cincinnati, O.. gold pen. J. L. Wayne, Cincinnati, O., half a dozen small butcher knives. Lowell Fletcher, Cincinnati, O., 10 gallons alcohol, 9.') per cent, proof. Henry AVarc, Cincinnati, O., pocket compass. Kobert Chiike & Co., Cincinnati, O., " Gillesiiie's Land Surveying." Dr. 1). N. Daniels, Cincinnati, ()., 1 trunk. Dr. Howe, Cincinnati, ()., a valuable surgical work. Charles G. AIi;rris, Cinciimati, O., i)rinting. Ari'ENDix. 587 George S. Blanchanl, Cincinimti, O., " Princiiiles of Zoology." David Christy, CiiicinniUi, O., Geological Chart of thu Arctic RcKions, by himself James Lupton, Cincinnati, O., 2 vols. "Scoresby's Arctic liegions," 1 fine pocket knife. Benjamin Pike & Sons, New York, 3 thermometers, I azimuth compass. Benjamin Kittiedge & Co., Cincinnati, O., silver alarm-whistle and dirk-knife. Z. B. Coffin, Cinemnati, O., 1 lb. tea. Cliarles Lawrence, Cincinnati, O., 2G lbs. best powder.* Mr. Robinson, Cincinnati, O., use of malt-kiln for desiccating meat for pcmniican. George H. Hill & Co., Cincinnati, O. putting up pcmmicau in cans. John W. Ellis, Cincinnati, O., Labrau. • seal-boots. Baker & Co., New York, 2 dozen pocket-knife blades, 1 glass flask, 3 dozen haml looking-glasses, 3000 common percussion caps. Amor Smith, Cincinnati, O., grinding penimican. American Express Company, free transportation of pcmniican, sledge, and case of books, from Cincinnati, O., to New York City. Adams and Co.'s Express, transport of the same from New York to New London, Conn. In addition to those in preceding list, the following are names Of persons who ren- dered me service in forwarding the interests of the expedition : Salmon P. Chase, then Governor of Oiiio. George IL Pugh, then United Status Senator from Ohio. Richard IL Chai)ell, New London, Conn. \V. IL Clement, President Little Miami and Columbus and Xenia Railroad. E, and G. W. Blunt, New York. Frank Clark, Superintendent American Express Coni])any, Cincinnati, O. Charles G. Clark, Superintendent American Express Company, New York. John Hoey, Superintendent Adams Ex])ress Company, New York. Dudley Field, attorney at law. New York. Willi^im M. Grinncll, ntlorney at law, New York. Sidney O. Budington, Groton, Conn. Cornelius Vandcrbilt, New York. William M. Edwards, New York. A. Brewster, Norwich, Conn. B. S. Osbon, New York. William C. Il.Waddcll, New York. American Geogra]iliical and Statistical Society of New York. Samuel Robinson, Cincinnati, O. William A. Brooks, Cincinnati, O. Associated Press of Cincinnati, O. Young Men's Mercantile Association, Cincinnati, 0. Associated Press of New York. • William S. Canijibell, Pliiladelphia, Pa. George W. Childs, Philadelphia, Pa. Little Miami and Columbns and Xenia Railroad Company. Pennsylvania Railroad Comijnny. Cleveland and Pittsburg Railroad Company. Central Ohio Railroad Coiujiany. ' Could not accept this (lonatlon, as no mentis of tmnHjioit for so Iinzm-ilous im luficlo imilil lie procured. 688 APPENDIX. Steubenville and Imlinna Riiilrond Company. Tclegraiili Company between Cincinnati and New York, Tclcjrraph Company between New York and l'iuhidel|)liia. Tclegrnpii Company between New York and Now London. Governor Banncrman, St. Joinus, Newfoundland. Converse O. Loach, United States Consul, St. John's, Newfoundland. A. M. Mackay, Superintendent New York and Newfoundland Telegraph Company, St. John's, Newfoundland. Robert Winton, editor and proprietor " Daily News,"' St. John's, Newfoundland. Francis Winton, editor and proprietor "Day Book," St. Jolni'si, Newfoundland. Mrs. S. Knight, of the Knight House, St. Joim's, Newfoundland. Mrs. Warrington, of the Union Hotel, St. John's, Newfoundland. J. C. Toussaint, of thc' Hotel de Paris, St. John's, Newfouiullaml. Kenneth M'Lea, merchant, St. John's, Newfoundland. III. Danish Currency. — Page 52. The Danish doHar, at the time of writing (1800), was worth fifty-five cents of Aninri' an money. The following; is the interpretation of the Danish of the six skillingnotc on i)age 54; "No. G .skillings C[ountryJ nifoncy], 24.10. "This order is good for Six Skillings Country Currency at the Conimorcial Towns iu Greenland. Copenhagen, \KM. U JJ « * ♦ *_ ''■Xolcd [in the Registry or Records], li j^ * * » * *_)' One of tlicsc skillings is worth about hnJ/a cent. U. S. federal money. IV. Phn-ma-in., or Chiefs. — Pago 101. " Pim-ma-in," a term used in former times among the Innuits for the principal man (or chief) among them. It is now obsolete, as there arc no chiefs or rulers among them. Every man is now on an o(piality one with another. V. Frohishcr's " ^o^r*'."— Pago 182. The matter of the Frobisher "gold" or iron is sufliciently treated of in the body of the work, on page 437. VI. The Wrech afthe George Henry. — Page 145, The following account of the wreck of the Groi-fie, Henry apjieared in a New Lon- don journal shortly after the occurrence of the disaster to which it relates: " ( 'aplain Christopher B. Chapelt, of Norwich Town, has arrived in the bnrk ^^on- tircUo from Hudson's Bay, togetlii'r with the nuUo. and part of the crew of the bark O'foiye Ihniij, of New l,f)ndon, which has been wrecked ujion the Lower Siiva)j:e Isl- ands. Slic was forced upon the rocks tlie IGtIi of July, by strong tides in calm weath- er, heavily beset by large floes of ice, which, fur the lack of wind, rendered tliv vessel unmaiu\geable, and she became a total wreck. After saving a great ([uantity of pro- visions, stores, and other valuable property, Captain Chaiiell left the island, with his APPENDIX. 589 whole crew and officers, in five boats, to make tlie best of their way toward St. John's, Newfoundland. Leaving the island on the 2Gth of July, they crossed down to Ueso- liition Island 28th, wlieii a stress of weather and much ice caused tlicni to land on the rocks, where they wore detained for four days, at the end of which time they launched toward Button Island, on the opposite side of the straits, distant .'JO iiiiles"; but, owing to calms and head winds, were thrown back near Resolution Isbuici, and surrounded by a pack of ice. This closed together so quick upon their l)oiits that they had but just time enough to haul them up on the ice and save them from being crushed to pieces. Tlirce of them were sliglitly stove. They remained on the ice three hours before it got so still that they could launch with safety and make for the shore, which the last two boats reached in time to shun a gale that came on sudden- ly. Hero the boats were detained for ten days, both ice and wind bound, and the rain scarcely ceased during the time, making their situation very uncomfortable. Ou the lOth of August they launched again, and proceeded on the voyage. Owing to lack of wind, they had to toil with oars for twelve hours, when with a breeze came fog and rain, that soon wet and chilled all hands. They then sailed among ice, mak- ing a course as well as tlicy could toward Button Island, which they were imable to reach for ice. On the night of the 11th two of the boats got separated in thick, dark weather, and on the morning of the 12th a gale of wind came on, which, togctiicr with a high sea, discomfited the boats not a little. Considting one another how best to proceed for safety, it was decidotl to run for land, which was distant 25 miles. On running toward the land, they came to a heavj- ])nck of ice, through which it was nec- ess! ry to go, if possible, to reach the land, it lieing their only way of safety. They sailed on, and fortunately found the ice so slack that the boats could run among it — still heading for the land, which now appeared only about six miles, though it wiis much farther off", and i«-esented nothing but perpendicular elifl^s, up which it would be impossible for man to climb, and no prospect of saving the boats, without which there would be no chance of escape from the barren island, wiierc they might have been delivered from the jaws of the ocean oidy to starve. So they held another con- sultation. In all eyes their hope seemed forlorn, and their hearts sank within them as the gale increased and the sea arose. Then all were ready to give uj) in despair, when, lo ! a sail appeared — a tiny sail — and they rejoiced that the lost boats were still afloat. With the aid of a glass they made out a schooner, for which they steer- ed with joyful hearts, and, after a long time, wore discovered by her captain and kindly received. It was then found that, two hours before, she had jjicked up the missing boats. Thus all were providentially drawn together, and dclivereil out of much danger." VII. Jiob's 3Ieasurement. — Page 276. Kingwatcheung's (Bob's) measurement was as follows ; 3*inches around his body, over the breast. 42 inches around his shoulders, over his arms. IT) inches around his neck. 22 inches around his head. ft feet 2 inches in height. 5 feet 3 inches from finger tip to finger tip. IIo was probably from 40 to 45 years of age. VIII. F)'ohisher''s Ex2KdUions. — Pago 279. Frobisher left England on the 15th of June, 157G, with three vessels — the Gabriel, a bark of twenty-five tons ; the Michael, a bark of twenty tons ; and a pinnace, of ten tons. On the lltli of July "he had sight of an high and ragged land," which was the southern part of Greenland ; but he was kept from landing by ice and fogs. Not far from that point his pinnace, with four men, was lost. "Also the other bnrke, named the Michael, mistrusting the matter, conveyed themselves privily away from 590 APPENDIX. liim, and returned home, with great report that ho was cast away." Frobisher, nev- ci'hclcss, went on alone witli the (hibrid, and after encountering much severe weath- er, entered tlie water wiiich he called "Frobisher Strait," now to be known by the name of Frobisher Bay. He shortly after had interviews with the natives, several of wliom came on board his vessel. The mariners, trusting them, began to hold open intercourse with the ))Cople, and a party of five went on sliore in a boat ; these were captured by the natives, and the captain could get no intelligence of them during the remainder of the time he si>ent there. Frobisher then turned his attention to ob- taining some tokens of Iiis voyage to carry back with him to England. He lured one of the native men on board, and took him oft" with iii-n. "Whereupon," says llak- luyl, "when he found himself in captivity, for very chuler and disdaine he bit his tongue in twaino within his mouth ; notwithstanding, he died not thereof, but lived till ho came in England, and then he died of cold which he had taken at sea." Frobisher reached England, on his return, e.irly in October of that year. Among the relics and tokens he brought home with him was one jacce of black stone, of groat weight, "much like to a sea cole in colour." This, bcmg accidentally put in the fire, ]ircsented an ajJiJCarancc something like gold. Certain refiners of London expressed the opinion that the specimen submitted to them contained gold, and a second expedition was quickly set on foot. This expedition was, as Ilakluyt says, "for the searching more of this goldo ore than for the searching any further discov- ery of the passage." On tiic olst of JNFay, 1577, Frobisher sot sail on his second voyage, having three vessels — the Ihjdc, of two hundred tons ; the Gabriel, and the Michael — and in due time again entered Frobisher Bay. On the 10th of July ho went ashore with a large company of his officers and men, and ascended a high hill, which, with much cere- mony, he named Mount Warwick. Two of the Englishmen then had an interview with two of the natives, a great crowd of whom had collected to view the strange siMctacle exhibited before them. This interview resulted in trading to a considera- ble extent. Shortly afterward, Frobisher went with the master of his vessel to hold an interview with two others of the natives, meaning to seize them and carry them on board his vessel, intending to dismiss one witli many ])resents, and to retain the other as an interpreter. Tliey made the attempt at cajiture as agreed ujion, but their feet slipped on the snow, and the natives escaped from their grasp ; thereupon turning and attacking the two Englishmen, slightly wounding Frobislier. Some of tlie sliiji's company, coming to the others' assistance, captured one of the naUves and carried him on board. On the L'Cth of July, what was thought to bo a very rich mine of ore was discover- ed in the Countess of Warwick's Sound, and twenty tons of it were got together. On one of the islands in Bear Sound a tomb was found with a wliite man's bones in it. The captive native, being interrogated by signs, declared that the man had not been killed by the Innuits, but by wolves. In the latter jiart of July, various jiortions of the clothing of the missing five men of the first expedition were found in York Sound. The finding of the clothes gave hope that the men were yet alive, and a note was written and loft where the relics were discovered. These tilings having been report- ed to the others, an expedition was made to the point indicated. When the jdaco wiis reached, however, all vestiges had disappeared, having clearly been taken away by the natives. The expedition penetrated farther from the siiorc, and soon came upon a village of tents, the inhabitants of which, to the number of sixteen or eight- een, put to sea in a boat. Being then hardly pressed, the natives went again ashore on a ])oint in York Sound, where they were attacked by the English. In the fight which ensued five or six of the natives were killed, most of the rest escaping. The APPENDIX. 591 party thereupon returned to the ships, carrying witli them one of tlicir own men diin- gerously hurt by an arrow, and a native woman wlio hud been captured. Then all the vessels returned to the Countess of Warwick's Sound. Not long aft- er, the natives came to treat for the return of the captive wonuiu. Frobisher inti- mated to them that he demanded first the release and delivery of liis five men. The captive man, who acted as interpreter, was at first so much uttbcted at sight once more of iiis people that he " fell so out into tears that he could not spcakc a woihI in a great space." Then he conferred with them, and afterward assured Frobisher that the men were alive and should be delivered up, calling on him, moreover, to send them a letter. Therefore a letter was written, and on the 7th of August the natives took it, signifying that in three days they would return. At the ap])ointed time they indeed returned, and showed themselves in small numbers, but yet brought no letter or word from the missing men. Moreover, it was observed that many of tliem were concealed behind the rocks, and it seemed clear that some treachery was meditated ; whereupon the English prudently kept away from the traj). By the 21st of August the woi-k of loading the ships with two hundred tons of the ore was finished, and on the 23d sail was made for England. The show of ore which Frobisher took back to England excited so much enthusi- asm for another expedition that a fleet of fifteen vessels was ready to sail in May, 1578. It was proposed to establish a colony of one hundred persons, who should live through the ycrr on an island in the Countess of Warwick's Sound. This colony was to consist of minei's, mariners, soldiers, gold refiners, bakers, carpenters, etc. A "strong fort or house of timber, artificially framed and cunningly devised by a nota- ble learned man," was to be carried out in the ships and put up on the island. On the way out, however, one of the barks was sunk, and part of the house was lost. On the 1st of August the order was given from Frobisher, who had reached the Countess of Warwick's Sound, to disembark from the vessels all the men and stores, and land them on the Countess of AVarwick's Island, and to prepare at once for min- ing. "Then," says Ilakluyt, "whilst the Mariners i)lyed tlicir worke, the Captaines sought out new mynes, the goldfiners made tryall of the Ore," etc. On the 9th a consultation on the house was held. It was discovered that only the east side and the south side of the building had come safely to hand, the other parts having been either lost or used in repairing the ships, which had been much beaten by storms in the passage. It was then tiiought, seeing there was not timber enough for a house to accommodate one hundred jieople, that a house for sixty should bo set up. The carpenters, being consulted, declared that they should want five or six weeks to do the work, whereas there remained but twenty-three days before the slii])s must leave the country ; consecpiently it was determined not to put up the house that year. On the 30th of August, as Ilakluyt says, " the Masons finished a house which Captaine Fenton caused to be made of lyme and stone upon the Countess of War- wick's Island, to the end we might prove, against the next yecre, whether the snow could overwhelmc it, the frost break it up, or the peoido dismember the same." Again: "We buried the timber of our pretended [intended] fort." The fact that this expedition earned a large quantity of coal is shown by the fol- lowing extract from Ilakluyt, concerning the leakage of water on board the Heet : "The great cause of this leakage and wasting was for that the great timber and sea cole, which lay so weighty upon the barrels, brake, bruised, and rotted the hoopts asunder." On the last day of August the fleet set sail on its return to England. The following, upon the same subject, is from the "Gentleman's Magazine" for 175-1, vol. xxiv., p. 40 : 592 AITENDIX. " Phi/adcljihia, Xov. 15. Siiiulny lust arrived here the scliooner Argo, Cnptnin Charles Swaine, who miik'd I'nmi tliis ]iort last sjjring on the discovery of the N.W. passage. She fell in with tlic ice oVi FaretccU; left the eastern ice, and fell in with the western ice, in hit. Ui, and crnized to tlie northward to lat. (J3 to clear it, hut could not, it tiien extending to the eastward. On her return to the southward she met with two Danish sliips bound to Bull river and iJixcn, up JJavis'n strcigiits, who had been in tiic ice fourteen days, off Fwwcll, and had then stood to westward ; and assured tiie conunander that the ice was fast to the sliore uU above Hudson's streights to the distance of 40 leagues out ; and tliat there had not been such a se- vere winicr as tlie last those 2-1: years that they had used that trade : tliey had been nine weeks from Cce.', 1754. ♦ ♦ • The schooner yicjro, Captain Swuinc, is arrived at I'liiladdphia, after a second unsuccessful attempt to discover a northwest passage. {See an account of the \sl voyage, p. 40. Sue also page 542.)" [On that page, 642, there is merely a list of all voyages to discover a northwest passage, etc., previous to that of the Aryo. — Hall.] Macpherson ("The Annals of Commerce, Manufactures, Fisheries, and Naviga- tion," in 4 vols., London, 1805 ; vol. iii.)says: "This summer [Sept., 1772. — II.] some gentlemen in Virginia subscribed for the equipment of a vessel to be sent upon an attempt for a northwest pa.ssage. Under their auspices, Cajjtain Wilder sailed in the brig I>iliyence to the lat. 09° 11', in a large bay which he supposed hitherto unknown. He reported that, from the course of the tides, he thought it very probable that there is a passage, but that it is seldom free of ice, and therefore impassable.* But an inijinssable passaye (if such language may be allowed) is no ]>assagc for siiips. But the impossibility of finding such a pas- .sage, in any navigable sea, was, at the same time, further demonstrated by the return in tills summer of Mr. Ilearnc, a naval oflicer then in service of the Hudson Bay Company," etc., etc. [Following this is matter that refers to the information the Indians gave Ilearnc;. —Hall.] • Thiif Virginia voyngft of dicrovery had escaped tlic diligence of Dr. Forstcr, the lilstorinn of voy- ages and dliscuvcriea iu the .Nurtli. ( \ Ari'ENDix. 593 IX. The Loss of the Jktrk Kitty.— Pago 295. The bark Kill]/, of Newcastle, Knglnnd, sailed from London for Hudson's \t \y on the 21st of June, 18ii!), and was wrecked on the ice September 5tli in the same year. The wife of the captain, writinj? to an arctic voyager with the hope that he minht procure some tidings of her husband, thus states the material facts, as reported by survivors who had returned to England. After mentioning the date of the ship- wreck, she continues as follows : " The crew, having sufficient time to j)rovide themselves with every necessary they thought prudent to take into their boats, landed on Saddliback Island, and remained there four days, during wiiieh time they met several natives. Tiiey agreed to sepa- rate themselves into two bouts, and to |)roeeed u]) tiie straits in hope of meeting the Com])any's ships coming down. My liusband, Captain Ellis, with ten men in the long-boat, and Mr. Armstrong, chief nmte, with four in the skitl', left Saddleback Isl- and on the morning of September lOth, and at night, either from a snow-storm i i m the dark, the boats lost sight of each other. The skill', inshore the next morning, could see nothinjg of the long-boat. They then ])roeeedcd down the straits again, and sailed for the coast of Labrador. After sailing sixty-one days, they were jiicked up by the Esquimaux and taken to a Moravian missionary settlement. Finally, they arrived at North Shields on the 28th of August, 1800, ai. ' since then there has never been any tidings of the missing long-boat and her crew." The following, on the same subject, is from the London Times of Nov. 17, 1802: " Muui>KK OF Bkitisii Seamkn. — Fn September, 185!), the Kitlij, of Newcastle, was lost in Hudson's Straits by being nipped in the icct Five of her crew, who got into a small boat, after enduring great sutt'ering by ex])osure to the cold, succeeded in reaching a Moravian missionary station, where they were ho.spitably entertained, and i" ''ee of them sent to their homes in England next summer. But of the fate of the master of this vessel, Mr. Ellis, and the remainder of the crew, who loft the ship in a long-boat, nothing has been heard until the arrival of the vessels from the Hud- son's Bay stations this autumn, when the sad intelligence has been brought that the eleven jjoor fellows fell into the hands of unfriendly Esqninninx, and were murdered for the sake of their blankets. Tbo missionaries at Okuk, writing to the widow of the muster of the vessel in August last, say, ' It is with grief, nnxdnm, we must inform you that it is, alas! only too true that the long-boat, with her master and crew, iir- rivcd at Ungava Bay, but that none of the men survive. Last winter, Esquinmux from Ungava Bay visited our northernmor.t settlement, Hebron, who related that in the winter of 1859-00, several Europeans in a boat landed at the island called Ak- (latok, in Ungava Bay. They lived with the Esquimaux until about Januar}', ui)on what the latter could provide for them ; .but then, most likely when their provisions became short, the Esquimaux attacked them when they were asleej) and killed them, stabbing thetn with their knives. There is no doubt of these really being the men from the Kiltii, because the Es(iuimaux knew there had been another boat, with five men belonging to them, whom they deemed lost. They said one man of the mur- dered coni]mny had very frostbitten feet, and him the Esquimaux would not kill by stabbing, but showed him a kind of heathen mercy, as they ])Mt him into the open air until he was dead by severe cold.' It seems that these unfortunate men had been murdered for the sake of the blankets they had with them. It would ajipear that one of the Esquimaux wanted to save the three Euro])eans who lodged with him, but they met the same fate as their companions. The tribe who have committed this murder do not a])pear to have been brought in contact with the European mis- sions; and the friendly tribe who brought the information in to Hebron farther in- formed the Moravian missionaries at that place that a little farther north from Un- gava Bay, a whole crew, consisting in all of about forty men, wero enticed on shore and then killed by the Esquimaux." Pp No. of specimens 7 " 3 " 1 3 2 " I " 1 " 1 694 APPENDIX. Z. Mbieralogical and Geolor/ical Specimens. — Pago 404. The following is from SiUimaris Journal of March, 18C3 : '^Jtejmrt on the Geological and Mineraloriical Specimens collected by Mr. C. F. Uall in Frobisher llai/, "To THK New York Lyceum ok Natukal Histohy : "One of your committee, npimintcd to cxmnine the collection of minerals nnd fos- sils miidc by Mr. Charles F. Hall in his late Arctic Kx)ilorin}? Ex])edition, hegs leave to report tliat he found the collection of fossils small in number of individual speci- mens, and limited in tiic range of its species, but possessing great interest to tho stu- dent of arctic geology. "The specimens are as follows: "Macliirca maijna (Lcsucur). Casts of lower surface. Endoceras protfij'oniie ? (Hall. ) OrtJioceras (badly >vorn specimens). Ileliolites (new sjjccies). llcliopora " " Ilalijsitcs catcmilala (Fischer). Recejitmmlitcs (new species). "This collection was made at tlie head of Frobisher Bay, lat. G3° 44' N., nnd long. 68° oG' W. from Greenwich, at a point which, Mr. II.ill says, is ' a mountain of fos- sils,' similar to the limestone bluff at Cincinnati, with which he is fumilicr. This limestone rests upon mica schist, specimens of which he also brought from the same locality. Whether tho limestone was conformable to the schist or not, Mr. Hall diil not determine. It is much to be regretted that this interesting point was not exam- ined by him, as it is doubtful whether this locality may ever be visited by any future ex))lorcr. " The fossils, without doubt, arc nil Lower Silurian. The ^fadurea magna would place the limestone containing it on the horizon of the Chazy limestone of New York. The f lull/sites catenulata has been found in C^anadu in the Trenton beds, but in New York not lower than the Niagara lincstonc. The Endoceras proteiforme belongs to the Trenton limestone. The lifceplaculitcs is unlike the several sjiccies of the Galena limestone of the West, or the A', oicidenlalis of Canada. Mr. Salter speaks of one found in the northern jjartof the American continent. This may be that species, or it may be a new one ; which it was we have no means of determining. Tiie Ortho- cerata were but fragments, and so badly water-worn that the species could not be identified. " The specimens of corals were very perfect and beautiful, and imlikc any figured by Professor Hall in the Paloiontoldgy of New York. The Ileliolites and Ilelinpora belong to the Niagara group in New York, but in Canada they have been found in the Lower Silurian. For the identification of strata, corals are not always reliable. Whether these species are similar or identical with any in the Canadian collection, it was out of my power to determine. They are unlike any figured by Mr. I. W. Salter. K. P. Stkvens. " One of the committee appointed to examine the mineral specimens brought from Frobisher Bay by Mr. Hall, reports that the specimens, though quite numerous, were mostly of the same general cliaracter. The rocks were nearly all mica scliist. Some of the specimens were taken from boulders ; some from the ruins of houses, and had the mortar still attached ; and some were from the rock in its natural position. There was nothing peculiar in the rock, it presenting the usual variations in compo- sition. The other .specimens were an argillaceous limestone, determined by its fos- sils to be Lower Silnrian ; a single sjiecimen of quartz, crystallized, and presenting, besides the usual six-sided termination, another jiyramid whose angle was much more obtuse ; magnetic iron, some of which was found in situ, nnd other specimens which were evidently boulders, and had undergone for some time the action of salt-water ; a few pieces of iron pyrites, bituminous coal, and nodules of flint or jasper. * * * " [The part of this report omitted gives reasons for believing the coal and siliceous APPENDIX. 595 nudulcs to liavu been l>r(>iiKlit from Englnnd by FrobiBhcr, wbo, it is well known, took out largo supplies and many miners, expecting to mine and smelt ores. Sonic ' blooms' of iron which Mr. Hall found may have been the result of their operations with the magnetic iron. — Eds.] 11 * * « This theory is supjiorted by the tradition of the natives, who say that the coal was brought there by foreigners,* as well as by the entire absence of any in- dications of geological strata so higli up in the series as the Carboniferous formation. The siliceous pebbles seem to have served as gravel for the mortar used in building the houses for carrying on the various objects for which the expedition was sent out. No trace of any mineral containing silver existed in the collections. The sands su)i- posed by Mr. Hall to bo those in which Frobisher found gold have not yet been as- sayed. A small bead detached from an ornament worn by the natives was found to be lead. Tiios. Eoleston. ' XI. Arctic Sledge. — Pago 481. The sledge which I had made in Cincinnati, and took with me on my expedition to the North, was made after the sledge "Faith," the favorite slcdgo of Dr. Kane on his last expedition. The only difference between his and my slcdgo was as follows : Dr. Kane's was 3 feet 8 inches wide, while mine was only 2 fret C inches. The shoe- ing of Dr. Kane's was three-sixtecnths-inch steel, while the shoeing of mine, on nr ■ rn-ing at the North, was slabs of the jawbone of the whale (the article used by the natives), 1 inch thick and 3i^ inches wide. The dimensions of the "Faith" (of Dr. Kane's) were as follows: ft. ill. Length of runner . 13 Height of do 8 Horizontal width of rail 2} " " bnse of runner 3.t " " other parts ... 2 Thickness of all parts \\ Length, resting on a plain surface (i Cross-bars, five in number, making a width of . . . 3 8 >■ Every tliiug tlmt seems to them peculiar tliey refer to tlii:< source. THE END. . r ^ > 1 !>'' V h l..iilitt«iii ^ "v ' J H II i> T II I A ^ ■K ,.-■■' -ex*>v /, ■■7-- 1 m ..KODMNAIlN '" Vflin, M„„, l.lHiiit' «J1 .II"';**' V [f,_;^ ^> <;knkuaj. t habt / li..iU..v KlcM^ '-v„„,.,, r^. f 'ik m t* I' I ■ M 'i '^^-v r^ ■^u. ij'^ \l } jpt^ jr?T-j^^< • „..:Sj''?t» . Il>' -J'. A ^f- i '5^-- '^^•■■' \ M A I' OK T II K CorNTKHSof WAIIWMKS Nor.Mi t \ ^& A >, Ulllllllllfll II I \l mill li- Ilk I T^ jI Ui> wmi^l V I "^v u W. :^ -"^,S 9' "t --•^•^ "v>. '. I V ^ ' •- I ' / ^^. v^^ */i ''^V ^ ll..tt..iv,l.. ^,>>\ ^ '. '■ I -\,Miu » V~ tl.-l "fi: ,, ,."y.'-"i''-" •* •*• i > i,...i> ri-.iiiki.i, I J - Vi^l ;^ M r il I ■_/ ft ' \\ J' ^ * 1 ' .(' ^ li "■ »'* V^v)"' >•"' ^'i' % iij'*' (.'y- A"'' '<■, i^,.i, ( / I. O K S I. AN 1> Jl,?'^*^^'""'-'- ■5^' ii: J Vt-lh^kaTr' Milliiiiiil f^' I- t ' '^"^ -^^ %>v^ ^ «>(.»<» / ,n'\ r.(«.„,,., ,,, ".,, ■:!::.■' "'■• j. ' '% ' I II * . 4^ ^'v^y^ 1 ■l jVl Ollll ll> III. I A' '^^- ... *<> V / lliiilU'v KU'M <^ V 1' i '^'''^E «fH II.. s. ,.• m}:C'i -tr\i. ¥ '?a i.mI.iii.ii - ^1,1^^.^„, ........ C' /^i % '' ' /. / ^r. '/, ''!i;*t. \^j ^ 1 — /> -t ./ S.h.JIv, I •ll' A ) T '^ .^-.<. '-' < \ '•' "i^^^ '^ ^^.,.,^v''-' sA w^^ 1^ I IdlinliK] ■■•■■< ^^^ a <- ^■"K^'^m^ ''k'X'>^ ■■■■ "•^' . «/ ^ >,^ ^^ ,„,^„, .M .1 ■■ . I I 1 I -' / KKlkliiliiil toil ol' T i-iii k.'i • Am/ rmtuntftmrttt.i * tVMf0 5 i,, "I - JtjM.nl// . ^ I'"".' "in „ ""is ■/'111 _il'.,»/,/l,,,i|.».J ~ l.ijrrr."fi*«T?T«'l'^*T'p - * '^ ■«F^^*- '■ ?>.///..'.»..//,/■/, t - r •' ' ^i*<^ ' ■; V',^ .^' I. O K ■ S I. A N 'Vj^"''*-v"'' '■ t:,.,/,,./,,,,"/''' ^ ^ ~^ A ( lIAiri' OF vvi, sr roAsr oi- mavis s r it a i r r i{ A( ' K AM. I ) I s < " o V K in i<: s <>•' C . P ■ HA Liu "N 11 1\ fUANKMN HKSK.VJK ir KXI'K.Ill r'KW 'luritii: I III' VIM r» (■■■- r H ,. \ \ standard Works or Discovery and Adventure in Africa, I'UIILISIIKD IIY HARFER & BROTHERS, FraukUn Square, N. Y. tW HeiU by Mail, ixutaije pre-jmid, un receip' q/jnice. TtiK anur^int nf Irairl UUraUirf. trhieh IIari'KR & liKoTriKRg havf puhtished^latinri to A/ncj »Hetan>» itf Hurtoii, Ihlith, UviiuiHlniu; hti Clutillu, iMviii, and a number of iither flelelinttfd IrnvelUr*, form a gnuiU Ubninj, all the result of the laat few yearn' devotion to African egiUuTOtiun.—S. Y. JuuuMAi, or C.'ommebii:. Speko's Africa. Jmirnal of tlio Discovery <>f llio Sonrrcs of the Nile. Bv .FoiiN IIannim; Si>kkk, •"aptuhi II. .M. Imliiiii Army, Fellow ami Gold Mf'diilist of till! Koviil (lenxriipliical f^ociety, Hon. Corr. Meiiilwr aiiniwiiigs by Captain tiii.vNT. «vo, Cloth, ^4 00. Re&de's Savage Africa. Western Africa : Iwing the Narrative of n Tour of Iviuiiturial, Soiithwe^tiTn, and Northwestern Africa; with Notes on the llahits of the tJorilla; oti the Kxistcnce of Unicorns ancl 'raiUd Men; on the Mavo Trade; on the Ori' -n, ("liaracter, and ('apal)ilitii's of the Neixro, and of the future Civili- zation of »Vestcrn Africa. I>y W. WinWord Hkai>k, Fellow of the Gcoi.'. and An- lhn)i>oloKical Soc. of l.oiul.. ami Corr. Meniher of the tiec ■. 8oe. of I'aris. With llln!i; CuAii.i.r, (\>rr. Mcndier of the Amer. i;tlinoloiri<'al iStM'. ; of I 00. Baldwriii'8 African Hunting. AlVican Ilimiim; from Natal to tlie Zambesi, including; Lake Nixaini, the Kalahari Desort, v<<., from IS.'L' to ISCiO. By Wtt.i.iAM CiiAKi.Ks lUi.i, Fifty Illustrations by Wolf and Zweck- or, ttud u i'urtralt of the Great Sporti-nian. IJnio, Cloth, $1 50. Andersson's Okavango River. The Okavanpo Bivcr: A Narrative of Travel, FAplonilion, and .VdveTitnre. P.y CiiAlii.KS ■Juiin .Andkussdv, Author of " Luke Nj!ami." With Steid I'ortrait of the Author, numerous Wood-cuts, and A Map sliowint; the Hcgions explored by Andcrssoii, Cumming, Livingstone, Bur- ton, and Uii Cliaillu. Hvo, Cloth, .'fta L^"^ Andersson's Lake Ngami. Lake Nijanii ; or, Kxplorations and Discoveries during Four Years' Wanderings in the Wilds of .Southwest eni Africa. By Ciiaklks John Am>kh«8(>n. With numerous Illustrations, representing Sporting Adven- tures, Sulyects for Natural History, Devices for destroying Wild Animals. &c. New l':dition. iL'mo, Cloth, !j«l r>0." Livingstone's South Aflrica. Missioimry Travels and Kesearches in SoutJi Africa; including a Sketch of a Si.vtcen Y'ears'liesidcnce in the Interior of Africa, and a .loiirney from the Cape of Good Hope to I.oando on the West Coast; tlienoo across the Continent, down the Hiver Zambesi, to the Knsterti Ocean. By Davim LiviNOHTONK, LL.D., D.C.L. With Portrait, Mai>s, and immerous Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, f4 50. 2 Standard Works of Discovery and Adventure in ^ifrica. Davis's Carthage. Ciirtlinirc iimi her Ucnmins: IJciiit; nn AotMnmt of tlio Kx. onvatmris uii.l Kooiirclu-s on ihc Silo of tliu rii(Liiiiiaii .Molrojiolis in Africii nnA\is, F.li.(J.S. rnifiisi'lv illustrated with Mnpa, Wcxxl-ciits, Chroii)<» Liilio- grajihs, \c., Jic. 8vo, Cloth, !j!4 00. Buitoii's Central Africa. The l.akc Kcgioin of I'l'iitnil Africa. A I'irtiiru of F.xjloration. lU- Ukiiakii F. Hi uton. Caj.t. II. M.I. Arioy; Follow and (nild Mcdali!it of the Hoyal (Jcofiiaiiliicnl .Societv. \Vith Maji.* and IJicraN iiiL's on Wood. 8vo, Cloth, f;J 50. Earth's Nnth and Central Africa. Travel* nntl Di-covorii s in Xorth and Central Al'rica. lliin^; n .Founial of nn Kxi>cdition undirlnken under tlio ,\n>|iiees of H.H.M.'s (Joveniinent in the Years IM'.t-lH.V.. Ily llt.Miv H-utrii, I'li.I)., IJ.C.L. l*mfu.scly and elegantly illustrated. Coniiiletc in e<, and .\iicedotc-* of the Clm!.ii of the Lion, Klc)>iiant, II)ppo|Mitftnins (iiraffe. HliinoceniD, Ac. liy CioKiMis Ci^ii- uuio. With Illnstrations. 2 vols. I2mo, Cloth, S8 00. "Wilson's ■Western Africa. Western Afrira: Its Iltstnrr, rendition, and l'ro>j.Hn Ihc l><>»t txwk I h»rc rvrn on tbe \Ve»t C.iajl. — I>r. UviKuiTuMU llirrriJiire, Vi'. A/rica, Kib. W, 1.SCX Discovery and Adventures in Africa. Condensed Abstraets of the N'arni- tives of Afriean Travi-llei-s. l»y rrofessor Jaulson, James Wilson, and Hiuji MiKKAv. IMino, ('loth, lo ccnik. The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African Traveller. 15y Majoi Sir Fn*>ci'. IV lli ak. l'»nio, Clotii, 75 ecnt.-'. Landers Nigger Expedition. Journal t:n. Fln^'ravings. '.' \ol:i. 18nio, Cloth, I"! .W. Urquhart's Pillars of Hercules. The Pillars of Ilerenles; or. A Narrative i!Y IIAEPKR k BKOTIIKHS, Jm;ankltx Squaiu:, Nkw Youk tr ilailiiuj SMiec — lUnrKK & lliiorirKng irill nniil timr limkK In/ J/n/;, jn'stnq,' free tn ,iiii jHirt of the I'lUtnt Slatfn, on receipt of the I'rice. - •' < nr UAIif'KIVS C.XTMOCrEawl TllM'K LIST mu'i h,- Mnim;! nriili(il,ml'',,„i niipUn,- tioii tu the J'utjUithiin jHi-nuiiit'hi, nr Inj Utter, eueliiniinj h'lcc Ccnlx. LO!SSI\(rS*FIF,T.l) r.OOK OF TIIH IJKVOFrTlDX. Pi.to. rinl Fit'ld-Hnok r)t' iliv l{cv(il\iii;ni]phy, Sccmiy, Uciics, iiiul 'rnulilions «( tli<' \V;ir (or Imle- pi'lulflK'C. Hv IJlXXIN J. LoSSIXfl. 2 vols. 8V0, Clotll, iJU flO ; Sln'L'|i, fl.-i 00; Iluir'Calf, !?1K 00; Morocco, i;ilt f,lj,'cs, *2'.' OO. DliAl'KirS IIISTOK'VOF TlIK IXTKl.LFA TFAL DKVKL- Ol'MKNT OF KlUol'Iv A History of the Iiiicllcciiial l)cvcl(i|iii,ci\t uf Kiiroiic. ]\y .loiiN \\ti.i.i.vM DiJM-Ki!, M.I)., KL.I)., I'mlo-sor of Clicniis- try aiiil I'liysiolocy in the rriivcr^ity of New Ymk ; Aiillmr of a "'I'lcatisc on Illllllilli I'hysiolojjy," ito., >.<;<'. Sucoiul Ivlition. 8vo. (loth, s,", III); Hiilf Morocoo, 1*7 '-'.">. MOTI.KY'S DFTCir KFFriil.IC. Tl.c Kisc of tlm Duicli Uf- imhlic. A History. Hy .Iuhn LuTiiiioi- Moii.kv. Willi a I'ortiait of Vil- liiiin of OranKC. ';t vols'. .!( im). MOTLKVS IHSTOKV OFTIIK FNITKl) XETTIKRI.AXDS. History of the I'tiitcd Ni'thcrlamls : from the Death of Williiiin tho silent to the Synod of Dort. \Vitli a full \'icw of the l''.tiu'li>li-l>iilih Stni;:ulc n(;uin«t .SpMin, nml of the OriL'iii and Dcsiriiclioii of the Siaiii^li Aniiatla. By John Loriiiioi- M()Ti,i:v. I.l-.D.. D.t'.r., Author of '•The Kise of tlic Dutih Ucpiddic." New IMitioii. 'J vols, svo, I'lnih, >.i; tio. H ILDHKTirs rXITFD ST.VTFS. X.u K.litiun. Fikm .«'! m'Is. 8vo, Clnth, .*;( uii. Skcond Si;uiks. — From the Adoption of the Federal Oon-titution to the Fnd of the Sixt«5cntli {"otipress. ;; vol.s. Kvo. Cloth, .f'.l mt. COLKKIDCK'S COMITJ'.TF WOKKS. Tlio ('oni|il(ir Wnrk> of Samnel 'I'avlor Col.'rld^'e. With an Introductory F.ssny upon his I'liilo- •pliiciil and Tlieolo;.'ieal Opinions. Ildilcd hy I'rofcssor Siii;i)i>. Coinplutc in 7 Volnine-. With ii lino I'oitrait. New Fdition. Small Svo, Cloth, $10 r,o. Vol. I. Aids to Kctleetion— Statesman's Maiinal. II. The Friend. III. niojrrnpliiii I.iteraria. IV. Lectures on Shakspearo and other l)iamatis^. V. I.iterarv Kemains. VI. SeeomI L:>y Sermuu and Tahle-lalk. All I'oetii-al and Dramatie Works. fiT T'lio viil.s. sold sepanHcly. GIJOTF.'S IIISTOUV OF GREKCF. 1J vols. Uiii", ( Inih. l|18 00. i^arpcr's Catalogue. A liuw'KirTivx <'ATAi/>Grr A Tiuur.-l.ixT or IUri'kk A Hrotiichu' fi-iiurvTinNK may be ob- l«itiiil (jmtiiiuiii'ly "II niipUodlion U> Itic I'libU-hrrs iwixmnlly, nr by li'Hcr iiicbwlnR Kivr I'intk. Tbe ktU'Dtlou of gent Ifiiii'ti, in t-iwn or cxmntry, ib'i>iptiinK t" form I.lbniriwi ur riirlih Ibilr llU-mry T'ldorlioav 1.1 niiiM-rlfiilly Inrilol l<> tbi.i (^aUK^ur, «bicli oil! tx- foiiiul t<> romprtm* a larK<* |>n<|><>r- ti»ti uf tbe itanilarJ ami iinvt p'Urnifd it in Knglitb litcrahin'-i oMruEiiKNiiiNO MAti.T tiiikk TiiiHHAMi vouMrj*— »birli arc offi n-d in nioM lu»tHnfi'« at !<>■"• ilmn iiiic i|uarU'r tbr coti of riinllar |iMilurtion!< in I'.nf;lannnorli'd with •'"II«t:i>», Sclinol*, Ar., wh" ni»> not liRV*' aro'M to a tnntirortby Ktildo in tbi' M'iK-lion of lilciary |iroJurliuDN it In U-Ueviil the Tat- al'iKui' will prvirr cuptrially valunblt' an a manual of nfercun!. Tu prevent OivapiioiDlmoni, it I* i'ii(n?'''lrllfr or local aR^nt, applientionii, witli ri-iuittaiict), rhould bo addnvMid direct to tbe piibll»li.