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 83 Dana, E. A Description of the Bounty Lands in the] 
 State of Illinois ; also the Principal Roads and Routes, by- 
 Land and Water, through the Territory of the United States. 
 8vo, half morocco, uncut. Cincinnati : Looker, Reynolds\ 
 & Co. , Printers, 1 8 1 9 . ;^ 2 5 .00 
 
 A fine uncut copy of one of the most important books on the 
 Illinois country. 
 
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 fe'^ 
 
 iVi GIiOaT3lAT'^lC41i Sl^^CUES^ 
 
 0?r THE 
 
 WESTERN COUNTRY: 
 
 DESIGNED FOR 
 , BEINQ THE BESUIT OF EXTENSIVE 
 
 . RESEARCHES AND REMARKS. 
 
 TO WUICU IS ADDED, 
 
 SUMMARY OF AJJL THE MOST INTERESTING MATTERS 
 
 ON THE SUBJECT, 
 
 XKCLTTOISrS 
 
 A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE UNSOLD 
 # PUBLIC LANDS, 
 
 «, '■■-~ 
 
 eOLLEOTED FROM A VARIETY OF AUTHENTIC SOURCES* 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 A LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL ROADS. M 
 BY E. DANA. 
 
 
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 /^ 
 
 /f CINCINNATI J 
 Looker, Reynolds^Sc Co. Frinten. 
 
 1819. 
 
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 District of Ohio, ss> 
 
 Be it remembeued, That on tlie twenty -first day of August, in the 
 year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and nineteen, and in the 
 forty -fouith year of American Independence, E. Dana , of sa;d District, 
 hatli deposited in this office tlie title of a book, the right whereof he 
 claims as autlior and proprietor, in the words following, to wit : 
 
 *' Geographical Sketches on the Western Country : designed for 
 Emigi-ants and Settlei-a : being the result of extensive researches 
 and remarks. To which is added, a summary of all the most 
 interesting matters on tlie subject, including a particular desei-ip- 
 tion of the unsold public lands, collected from a variety of authen- 
 tic sources. Also, a list of the principal I'Xiads. By E. Dana." 
 
 In conformity to an act of tlie Congi'css of the United States of Ame- 
 rica, entitled " An act foi' the encouragement of learning, by securing 
 the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of 
 such copies, during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act 
 entitled ** An act supplementary to the act entitled ' An act for the en- 
 couragement of learning, by seciu'ing the copies of maps, chai*ts, and 
 Jxioks, to the autlxors and proprietors of such copies, during the times 
 therein mentioned,' and extending the benefit thereof to the arts of de- 
 signing, engi-aving and etching lustorical and otlier prints." 
 
 HARVEY D. EVANS, 
 
 Clerk of the District of 01m. 
 
TO THE READER. 
 
 After spending six years, mostly among the 
 nativesj, in the regions bordering upon the gi'uat 
 western Lakes, the Author was employed by 
 more than 1300 people, desirous of removing to 
 the west, to select and purchase for them, on an 
 extended credit, from the United States, a large 
 tract of land, in one body, convenient for perma- 
 nent settlements. In peiforming this service, two 
 years were spent laboriously in exploring the 
 western xountry. In behalf of his constituents 
 he at length preferred a petition to Congress, in 
 December, 1817> for a gi-ant ; but his application 
 proved unsuccessful. 
 
 The knowledge acquired from his travels, per- 
 sonal observations, critical remarks and enquiries, 
 he, by the advice of his friends^ !:as been induced 
 to lay before the public. But as (for the want of 
 an early education) the Author deemed himself 
 incompetent to present his communications in 
 language proper for the public eye, the various 
 materials by him collected, at his request, have 
 been prepared for the press by Reuben Kidder, 
 Counsellor at Law; whose acquaintance with 
 the western country, from four years residence, 
 has enabled him to collect a fund of useful in- 
 formation, which he . Jjas ^di£^^d d)¥;QygJ)k« t^ 
 
 "riCIAL. UI'I^.^AjR 
 VIOTORiA, B. C. V 
 
 
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JV 
 
 FREFACE. 
 
 In pursuing our labors, we have not lost sight 
 of our main design, which was, useful instruc- 
 tion to emigrants and settlers ; connecting a ge- 
 neral view of the whole ground, with a more par- 
 ticular description of the unsold public lands. 
 
 We have incorporated our own personal ob- 
 servations and remarks on the country, with the 
 jtnost important information that could be obtain- 
 ed from the public commissioners for purchasing 
 of the Indians ; from divers officers stationed in 
 the west during the late war ; from public sur- 
 veyors ; respectable, well informed Indian tra- 
 ders, travellers and hunters ; and from the most 
 interesting and authentic publications extant. 
 
 The subject we treat of, embracing a descrip- 
 tion of the whole westeni country, is so exten- 
 sive and multifarious, that it was not possible to 
 Comprehend the minute details of every part, iu 
 one volume. But we have endeavored to omit 
 nothing intf^Testing or useful, that could enable 
 an enquirer to form correct general views of the 
 whole, while he acquired more particular infor- 
 mation respecting all the public lands most va- 
 luable for cultivation and the objects of commerce. 
 
 Such as the work is, though we presume not 
 
 to pronounce it so complete as it might have been 
 
 ir^ndered, had it been committed to abler hands, 
 
 We feel confident, that, as it respects the design 
 
 We had in view, so much useful informatioiy|an 
 
 tiot be found compressed into so small a coiiiflbs, 
 
 on the same subject. 
 
 THE AUTHO) 
 
 y --J ^ 
 

 t?^e1a1Jviix.\ux iiEMan^-s. 
 
 Contest between foreign powers for possession. General 
 views. Steam boat navigation. J\*atnral resources 
 of the west. Abundunt means of national prosperity. 
 Source of support for a dense population. General 
 boundaries. Face of the country. Hills and moun- 
 tains. Principal rivers. Projected canals. Fertility 
 of soil. J\*ative productions. ^Agricultural remarks. 
 Growth of timber. Stones, on and near the surface. 
 Minerals. Antiquities. JVatural curiosities. Wild 
 animals and fowls. Fish. Indian tribes. Boundary 
 between the free and slave states. Cession of the 
 Floridas. First settlement of the western country. 
 Separation of the eastern from the Atlantic states. 
 
 The discovery of the new world, by Christopher Co* 
 lumbus, while the human mind had scarcely awoke from 
 the ignorant and superstitious slumbers of the dark agesw 
 opened to the nations of Europe a new and important 
 theatre of action. 
 
 The abundance of the precious metals in the south, 
 tempted the avarice of the Spaniards, who barbarously 
 exterminated the innocent natives, and seized upon theii* 
 possessions, underpretext of right by conquest. 
 
 North Americi^as not explored by the Spaniard)^ 
 English, or French, until a much later period. A contest 
 between these nations, for the jurisdiction of tliis then 
 wilderness temtory, subsisted with but little w*' 
 
 a2 
 
ilf 
 
 mm 
 
 6 
 
 PRELIMINARY UEMAHKS. 
 
 'it 
 
 tit 
 
 sion for more than one huiulred and fifty years. Dining 
 nearly the half of this peiiod, they were exliausting tlieir 
 blood and treasure, by acts of national hostilities by sea 
 and land. Thus zealous were tliose foreign combatants 
 in asserting rights which belonged to neither. At lengtli 
 the French, compelled by superior force, resigned to the 
 English their claims to the countiy westward of the 
 Mississippi. The English, until after they had acquired 
 this territory, had confined their tratle and colonization 
 to the Atlantic provinces. Indeed, so limited was their 
 knowledge of this counti-y, that at the treaty of 1783, 
 whicli terminated the revolutionary war, tliey deemed it 
 of no considerable importance. From the earliest disco- 
 very, the possession of the country had been securetl to 
 a politic enemy, as well by forts and garrisons, wliich in 
 a manner surrounded the country, as by the aptitude of 
 French manners to gain the friendship of the natives. — 
 Thus deprived of the means to obtain correct information, 
 the calculating policy of the English had never truly es- 
 timated the great extent of territory — tlie general fer- 
 tility of the soil — the extensiveness, and facility of navi- 
 gating the numerous streams that intersect the country — 
 and the charming temperature of climate ;— qualities 
 which confer so important aiid permanent a value on 
 "^this portion of the United.States. 
 
 It is worthy of remark, that the section of country 
 west of the Alleganies, till of late the sole residence of 
 the untutored savage, and the haunt of wild beasts, now 
 presents to the speculation of the j^itical philosopher, 
 an interesting subject for contemplawon. It possesses 
 the natural means of subsisting a more dense and nume- 
 rous population, than the one half of modern Europe.r- 
 The country is spacious, extending from tlxe Atlantic t« 
 
PREL1MIXAU\ REMARKS. 
 
 y es- 
 fer- 
 navi- 
 
 tlie Pacific ocean. The climate, though generally tem- 
 perate, is 80 iliverse in the several parts, as to be capable 
 of furnishing the conveniences, indeed nipst of the luxu- 
 rie«, of all other countries. The" soil, though greatly va- 
 rying in so wiele a range, is generally deep, strong a»id 
 durable. In many parts of the country, such is the fer- 
 tility, that the strength of the soil-seems inexhaustible by 
 culture, without manuring. The intelligent, patriotic 
 statesman, surveys with pleasant and curious emotions, 
 ^le natural facility of transporting native produce and 
 foreign articles of necessity on gi^eat rivers, intersecting 
 a vast inland country in divers directions, navigable for 
 vessels of large burden for thousands of miles. 
 
 By the power of steam, which now propels more tliah 
 one hundred large vessels on the western waters, naviga- 
 tion on rivers is rendered more secure and expeditious,, 
 than on the open sea, in the ordinary way. Thus has 
 the western farmer, by the instrumentality of bteam boats 
 on navigable waters, hundreds of miles from the ocean, 
 daily opportunities of exchanging, at his own door, the 
 produce of his rural labors for such foreign articles as 
 habit has made convenient or desirable. So generally is 
 almost every section of the western country intersected 
 by navigable rivers, running to opposite points from 
 nearly the same sources, in a manner interlocking, or 
 separated only by narrow portages, pouringtheir waters 
 northwardly into a '^heet of fresh water lakes of more 
 than two thousand miles in extent, and eastwardly into 
 the Atlantic oceag^ — that the whole territory may be 
 aptly resembled^K a cluster of islands, or rather to a 
 spacious champaign, excavated in all parts by the fonna- 
 tion of navigable canalo, intersecting each other in every 
 direction. 
 
8 
 
 rUELlMlNARY REMARKS. 
 
 What a source of national thrift may be anticipated 
 by the enlightened, contemplative patriot, from a country 
 ftO extensive, s^ll fresh, an it were, from tlie hand of na- 
 ture, aboundijjg in meins not only to support a dense 
 population at home, but also to supply all the demands 
 of foreign markets, both with provisions, and the ra>y 
 materials tor manufactures ! What motives to stimulate 
 to agrfeultural and commr^rcial industry ! What natural 
 resources of subsisting millions of human beings ! But, 
 as it might be thought more prudent, perhaps, to shroud 
 a little this picture of natlt)nal strength and felicity, 
 which a love of country delights to view in prospective, 
 we waive* the subject, lest we may seem romantic or 
 visionary. 
 
 The western states are situated in that happy medium 
 of climate, between extreme heat and cold, where a tem- 
 perature of the human constitution, most favorable to 
 health, may be preserved ; and the means of sustaining 
 life, from the cultivation of the soil, most easily obtained. 
 It would seem that man, thus secured from the annoy- 
 ance of those sensations which are produced by northern 
 blasts, and scorching suns, possessed here the most cer- 
 tain means of perfecting his nature ; and that the ener- 
 gies of his mind, when aroused to action, and directed 
 by the most proper natural and moral influence, might 
 ain the highest point of maturity of which his mental 
 faculties are susceptible. In Greece and Rome, more 
 than two thousand years ago, the vigor and ingenuity of 
 the human intellect, from natural andbnoral causes, not 
 unlike those which now operate on theVinerican citizens 
 of the western states, were displayed in a manner which 
 excited the wonder and admiration of the world. The 
 impulse which civil freedom imparted to those ancient 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 « 
 
 republicans, inspired them with lofty notions of liberty 
 and independence, and inclined them to bold and arduous 
 Undertakings. ITie human mind, thus put in motion by 
 the influence of causes most favorable to mental exer- 
 tions, the whole nation was directed, by multifarious 
 pursuits, in those arts which subserve and ailorn human 
 life ; and in those sciences which shed light and know- 
 ledge on the moral and natural world. Such has beei| 
 the progress of human knowledge, and the prosperous 
 state of nations, in ancient republics, when fostered by 
 the freedom of enquiry, and other propitious causes. 
 
 So great an influence has civil government in ^ping 
 the mental features of a community, it is n«" strange 
 that the wisdom of illustrious statesmen and L wgivers, 
 should have caused them to hare been cUsHed an; jng the 
 gods. It is wonderful, that a science so intimate y con- 
 nected wicn the welfare of man, as that of civil govem- 
 nki^tit, should, amidst the extraordinary progress of gene- 
 ral science, have been no imperfectly understood, till so 
 late a' period as the latter part of the eighteenth century. 
 But it seems to have been reserved for the sages of the 
 American revolution, successfully to embody into a wise, 
 practical system of free government, an assemblage of 
 maxims and principle;:, that had remained disjointed and 
 scattered through works on civil polity, that had been 
 accumulating ifrom the researches and remarks of men 
 who speculated on tiie science of government, for ages. 
 
 The citizens of the eastern states, although two cen- 
 turies have elapsed since their first settlement, can 
 hardly be consid^ed as having formed a uniform na- 
 tional character. Their progenitors were emigrants from 
 different parts of Europe—- English, Scotch, French, High 
 and Low Dutch, Having settled themselves down in a 
 
10 
 
 PUELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 I 
 
 kind of clans, the manners and customs of the mother 
 country have been but partially obliterated in their de- 
 scendants, by the collision of a social intercourse. In 
 this western country, the settlers being more promiscu- 
 ously located, will form an identity of opinions, of man- 
 ners and customs. Each emigrant retaining and giving 
 up a part of what is peculiar to himself, a new character 
 will be produced from the various materials constituting 
 the compound, which may with propriety be denominated 
 national. Hence will eventually be formed a more dis~ 
 tinguishable nationality of character. From such a com- 
 bination of characteristic peculiarities, a selection of the 
 best modes of pursuing the useful arts, and of those. prac- 
 tical inventions that subserve the grand purposes of sus- 
 taining and adorning human life, will naturally follow. 
 By such efficient means of exciting laudable curiosity, 
 and of imparting a fresh impulse to enterprising industry, 
 most skilfully bestowed on useful mechanical labors ; on 
 multiplying the conveniences of good living ; on develop- 
 ing the resources of a new country ; and on exploring 
 the latent recesses of virgin nature ; — ^may we not con- 
 fidently hope, that the arts which abridge manual labor 
 will be improved— that the stock of useful knowledge 
 will be increased — and that the condition of man will 
 generally be ameliorated ? 
 
 In these western states, nature has offered to the skil- 
 ful industry of man abundant resources for food and rai- 
 ment ; and she has also supplied him amply with the 
 means of national defence against foreign aggression.—- 
 The soil and the climate combine to provide him, by a 
 moderate portion of labor, the various materials that con- 
 stitute a palatable and nourishing diet, to a degree that 
 might be considered luxurious. Flax, hemp and cotton 
 
 I 
 * 
 
iH 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 11 
 
 plants, shoot up almost spotaneously from the soil ; the 
 mulberry of the forest feeds the silk worm ; and the spa- 
 cious grazing Iands» the sheep. Thus may the raw ma- 
 terials, with little care and toil, be furnished, not only to 
 protect, but to adorn the human body. The numerous 
 beds of iron ore, the lead mines, and the extensive salt 
 petre caves, hold out to the citizens the natural means 
 of securing the independence and of defending the liber- 
 ties of their country. 
 
 The liberal policy of the general government has pro- 
 vided funds, from the sale of public lands, to facilitate 
 a communication from the seaboard, through the interior 
 of each new state ; and have already, in pursuance of 
 their design, nearly completed a public highway, from 
 the seat of the national government, as far as the Ohio. 
 This great nadonal work, of digging down tlie high rug- 
 ged hills, and filling up the vallies, while it remains a 
 proud monument to after ages of the wise policy, bold 
 design, and skilful achievement of the American people^ 
 will strengthen the bond of union which connects^ 
 eastern with the western states. 
 
 Our na ional council have not been unmin( 
 most efficacious means of perpetuating our c^ 
 having provided a permanent fund for thej 
 cation of youth, by granting to the inhabJ 
 township, consisting of six miles square, 
 sixth part, that is 640 acres. And they 
 tended the eTect of their patriotic motive^ 
 generation, I y granting to the people of ea 
 two entire townships, that is 45,680 acres, 
 pose of endowing public seminaries of learning"^ 
 competent fuuds for iifttruction. j^i. 
 
12 
 
 PRELIMINAIIY RtiMAEKS. 
 
 With such abundant means provided by nature for the 
 wants of the body, and by tlie government for the wants 
 of the mind, it would seem that nothing was lacking to 
 render the citizens of these «tates as wi^e and happy, as 
 human society, taken in mass, are susceptible of becom- 
 in^Vbut a want of duty t|f themselves. 
 
 Virtuous propensities,* correct principles, intelligent 
 U9,4^^^Qd^"a^» and^^ilful industry, are the substantial 
 pillars (^n which free republics rest. Such institutions, 
 without Hem, are mere hay and stubble. Public opinion 
 is a phjsieal power, that like a magic charm directs and 
 8hap(B|^to its purpose free civil governments ; the pro- 
 ceedings of which wiU 'be marked by wisdom or folly, 
 liberty or oppression, according as the one or the other 
 preponderates in the great body politic, whose public 
 functionaries ordain the laws. Nothing is more clear, 
 than that the stability and permanency of a free state, 
 depend on the patriotic intelligence of the people who 
 jompo9«!'4t And while the minds of such a people are 
 
 tnfi^y and generally imbued with enlightened and cor- 
 
 Igticiples, the policy by which they are governed 
 
 2r be weak, nor wicked, nor can it come to an 
 
 comport with our design, to give complete 
 
 Tor geological descriptions of the extensive 
 
 try concerning which we treat. Such a work 
 
 ire the uninterrupted researches of a long 
 
 Jd fill the pages of many a folio volume*— 
 
 rhas been, to give mere sketches, that would 
 
 ^^^ ^ a birdsey e view, the great western country to 
 
 rSnugmiits, desirous of seeking li permanent residence, 
 
 whmie they can pleasantly locate themselves, and build 
 
 up their fortunes. By such a general survey* in miniature« 
 
 % 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 IS 
 
 a purchaser will be enabled to select mote understand- 
 ingly, a spot for a new home, on the unsold public lands; 
 as a correct and particular description of which, as the 
 best sources of information could afford, has been our 
 main design. 
 
 That extensive tract of territory, over which the Uni- 
 ted States now claim jurisdiction, is divided into twa 
 distinct portions, by a great natural boundary. The 
 western portion is separated from the eastern, by '^e long 
 range of high lands, denominated the AUeganks, con- 
 sisting of an assemblage of mountains, generally conti- 
 nuous, but occasionally so interrupted, branched out, and 
 depressed, by chasms and valleys, as to pennit larg^ tri- 
 butary streams to flow through in opposite directions, to- 
 wards the Atlantic ocean, and the waters of the Missis- 
 sippi. These mountains extend from Angelica, in the 
 western part of the state of New York, southwardly, ta 
 Mobile bay, in the state of Alabd!ma. 
 
 The tract we assume to describe, is, according to the 
 late British treaty, bounded on the north by a long sheet 
 of lake waters, to and through the Lake of the Woods, 
 and from thence as far north as latitude 49° — ^thence west 
 over the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific ocean-— thence, 
 according to the late Spanish treaty, on the west by 
 the watero of the Pacific to north latitude 42** — from 
 thence due east to the source of the Arkansaw — ^thence 
 on the south bank thereof to west longitude 100^-^ 
 thence due south to the Red river— thence on the south 
 banit of that river southeastwardly to the northwest limit 
 (^ the state of Louisiana — thence ismuthwardly on the 
 west Knis thereof to the Sabine river«-^thence on the west 
 bonk thereof to the Gulf of Mexico-^h^nce to a point 
 about south of the most #outhwestwiiirdlj Allegany ridgt 
 ---^iwe northwardly to said ridge* 
 
:fjlttit,itii'v4ll.^ft 
 
 mm 
 
 14! 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 I 
 
 Ir &i 
 
 ni 
 
 I. 
 
 1 I 
 
 In the region lying about 300 miles west of the Mis- 
 souri, nature seems to have formed a boundary that will 
 fix limits to the permanent habitation of man. Here 
 most of that great expanse of country, spreading out to 
 the Pacific ocean, is a wild waste, in a manner devoid of 
 wood and water, consisting of spacious prairies, hills and 
 mountains, productive only of scanty vegetation, except 
 on the margin of water courses. Lakes or running 
 streams of pure water are rarely to be found — and al- 
 though some long rivers flow through this immense de- 
 sert in the rainy seasons, they are generally so languid 
 and dried up in the summer months, as to afford but oc- 
 casional means of slaking the thirst of the disconsolate 
 traveller. It is however perhaps fortunate, as it r-eepects 
 the long duration of the American republic, so extensive 
 in temtory, that nature has opposed a barrier other than 
 the ocean, on the west, to the migration of emigrants and 
 the expansion of population. 
 
 The most valuable portion of the western lands be- 
 longing to the United States, lies between 29° and 42° 
 north latitude, being nearly one thousand miles in extent 
 from lake Michigan on the north, to the Gulf of Mexico. 
 The above mentioned boundaries, with the exception of 
 Michigan and the northwestern territory, includes per- 
 haps hearly all the public lands, which will be considered 
 a subject of enquiry for permanent settlements during 
 the present century. 
 
 In giving a general description of the western country, 
 it has been thought expedient to deviate from the beaten 
 track of geographers, by presenting a view of the great 
 outlines which distinguish the natural face of the coun- 
 try. Accordingly, disregarding the artificial divisions by 
 states and territories, we shall give under one head the 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 15 
 
 principal ranges of mountains and hills, which constitute 
 the sources of the head waters of the great rivers. After 
 which we shall describe the principal rivers, and give di- 
 vers other sketches of the natural history of the country. 
 
 Of the High Lands which give source to the streams 
 running in opposite directions, that feed the g.eat rivers, 
 and constitute the prominent features on the face of the 
 country, the Allegany on the east, and the Rocky and 
 Chippewan mountains on the west, are the principal. 
 
 The Rocky Mountains range from the frozen re- 
 gions of the north, nearly in a south direction towards the 
 Andes, of which they may be considered a continuation, 
 and to which they are supposed in extent and magnitude 
 to be little inferior. They form the great natural boun- 
 dary, which separates the head waters that fall into the 
 Pacific ocean from those that flow into the Mississippi 
 valley. The highest peak, which is immensely elevated, 
 is in north latitude 41° and is thought to be the tabU 
 land of North America. From this point many of the 
 greatest rivers take their rise ; among which is the Cole- 
 rudo of Calafornia, the Rio del Norte, the Arkansaw, 
 the La Platte and the Yellow rivers. 
 
 A few degrees east of the Rocky Mountains is t\ie 
 Chippewan Range of mountains, which originate near 
 tlie arctic circle, and extending in a direction nearly 
 parallel to the coast of the Paciiic ocean, is continued on 
 and spreads into high table lands in the province ^f 
 Mexico. y^ 
 
 What is denominated the Masserne Range is that 
 part f^^ the Chippewan mountains which lies between 
 the Arkansaw and Red rivers, near to and parallel with 
 the latter, extending a southwestwardly course from 
 about north latitude 39° to 34° — from thence winding its 
 
15 
 
 FUELIMINART REMARKS. 
 
 t '^ 
 
 bourse northeastwardly a few miles, it is divided into 
 two branches : the left is continued over and from the 
 Arkaosaw northwardly to the head waters of the Osage ; 
 and the right, eastwardly on the left bank of the Arkan- 
 saw to near its mouth. This mountain is supposed to 
 be rich in minerals, although no scientific research has 
 yet been made. The warm springs on the Washita are 
 situated on the spurs of this ridge. 
 
 There is a long chain of hills, which generally sepa- 
 rate the waters of the Missouri from those of the Arkan- 
 saw and Mississippi. The hills in the White river coun- 
 try, and those west of the Mississippi towards the head 
 of the St. Francis and the Maramack, so abundant in 
 minerals, may be considered the dependencies of the 
 Black mountains, between the upper part of the Washita 
 and the Arkansaw ; between the upper part of which 
 rivers are diverse, high, rugged hills. 
 
 A ridge of hills leaves the Mississippi about twenty 
 miles above the mouth of tlie Ohio, and, extending south- 
 west, divides the waters that flow south into the St. Fran- 
 cis and White rivei"Si from those, whose course is direct- 
 ed northeast of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers.—- 
 This extensive range of hills divides the Missouri coun- 
 try into two distinct natural portions. 
 
 A range of high lands commences above the junction 
 of the Wabash with the Ohio, which, extending in a 
 northeast direction, through Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylva- 
 nia and New York, forms the source of streams, which 
 flow into the Canadian lakes, and those which discharge 
 their waters into the Ohio. The whole of this ridge is 
 but moderately elevated, being chiefly composed of lime 
 and schistous sand stone, without any valuable minerals, 
 except iron and coal/ 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 ^ 
 
 A range of hills leaves the northwestern parts of Geor- 
 gia, and following a course nearly similar to that of Ten- 
 nessee river, divides the waters of that stream from 
 those of ilie Mobile. This ridge, though not veiy high, 
 is clothed with a thick forest, and forms a distinguisha- 
 ble boundary between the climates, as well as the waters 
 that feed the large rivers. Nearly upon the line of 
 Georgia and Alabama, this ridge is formed into two 
 branches : one winding parallel to the Tennessee, crosses 
 the Ohio a short distance below the former river ; the 
 second branch puts out southwestwardly, extttnding near 
 the junction of the Coosa with the Tallapoosa. 
 
 A branch of the Allegany, intersecting Georgia nearly 
 southwestwardly, extending between the Chatahoochee 
 and Mobile rivers, terminates in the bluffs of Mobile bay, 
 near the town of Blakely. 
 
 From the northeast of Mississippi state, a ridge puts 
 out from the one last described, as dividing the Tennessee 
 and Mobile rivers, pursuing a south course, crosses two 
 degrees of latitude, dividing the waters of the Ton^igbee 
 from those of the Yazoo and Big Black rivers — ^from 
 thence, turning eastwardly, separates the streams flow- 
 ing into the Pascagoula, and is terminated by the high 
 bank on which Mobile town is built. 
 
 There is in the basin of the Mobile still another dis- 
 tinctive ridge, lying between the waters of the Cahaba 
 and those of the Black ^.Varrior, which descends to the 
 southward, and forms the apex of the peninsula between 
 the Tombigbee and Alabama, merging in the low lands 
 near the junction of those rivers. 
 
 Almost on north latitude 33^, and near the sources 
 of the Big Black, Pearl and Pascagoula rivers, the chdn 
 of hills west of the Tombigbee sends forth two project 
 
■— 
 
 18 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 tions; one winds southwardly, dividing the waters of 
 the Pearl and Pascagoula, gradually depressing as it ap- 
 proaches the sea coast, and ends in a high bank near the 
 bay of St. Louis. The second pursues a southeast 
 course, separates tlie tributary streams to the Missis- 
 sippi, Maurepas, Ponchartrain and Borgne, and termi- 
 nates abruptly in high hills, called Loftus Heights, on 
 the east bank of the Mississippi, about eighteen miles 
 above Red river. 
 
 There are other hills, of more^r less elevation, well 
 known, dividing the minor waters ; but those above des- 
 cribed are all the principal high lands of note, that have 
 been properly explored, in this extensive western region. 
 
 PRINCIPAL RIVERS. 
 
 Red River, or Nachitoches, rises near Santa Fee, in 
 north latitude 37° 30', and 29° west longitude, runs 
 nearly parallel to the Arkansaw, and after rieandering 
 about 1500 miles, joins the Mississippi in latitude 30°. 
 The passage of this river, for a considerable extent, is 
 through a valley about sixteen miles wide — is navi- 
 gable 6 or 800 miles above the Rapiede, which is two 
 miles in length, where is the first obstruction, 135 miles 
 up, consisting of a rock of the hardness of pipe clay, that 
 may be passed over in boats, when the river is not low, 
 or eafily removed in a dry season. The water is tinged 
 with red, and a little brackish. 
 
 The Arkansaw rises in the Rocky Mountains, lati- 
 tude 42°, unites with the Mississippi in latitude 31° 40' 
 —receives no considerable streams within 800 mile3 
 from its mouth— is navigable 1980, and meanders 21 70 
 miles ; communicates with White river by a bayou j its 
 banks, in high water, extensively flooded many milts 
 above the mouth. 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 19 
 
 The Missouri rises in the Rocky Mountains, in north 
 latitude 43° 31', west longitude 34° 45', has three prin- 
 cipal head branches, navigabla for some distance, called 
 Jefterson, Madison and Gallatin, From its junction 
 with the Mississippi to the Gireat Falls, being 2575 miles, 
 it is navigable without interruption ; and from tlience to 
 the Jefferson, the largest branch, is navigable 5C1 miles, 
 which is distant from it8 confluence with the Mississippi 
 5096 miles, and from thence to the Gulf 1345 miles, 
 being in the whole 4491 miles : a greater extent of na- 
 vigable waters than is to be found on any other tributary 
 stream upon the globe. The cataracts of the Missouri 
 are second only to those of Niagara, the most stupen- 
 dous in the world— -the descent in the former being 
 about 362 feet in 18 miles. The first great pitch is 98 
 feet ; second, 19 ; third, 47 ; and fourth, 26 feet. Here 
 the widtli is about 350 yards. 
 
 The Mississippi river rises in latitude 47° 47' from 
 Turtle lake, from thence to the falls of St. Anthony is 
 about 600 miles, latitude 44°. Its junction with the 
 Missouri is in latitude 38° 50'. It flows into the Gulf 
 of Mexico through several months, of which the princi- 
 pal is the Balize. This river by overflowing in the 
 spring freshets, lays the country for many miles in extent 
 under water— is from one to two miles in width, and of a 
 great depth. Boats of 40 tons burden can ascend to the 
 falls of St. Anthony. Ships seldom proceed further up 
 than Natchez. The application of steam to the propel- 
 ling of boats has furnished peculiar facilities to the navi- 
 gation of this river, on which and its tributary streams 
 are now (1819) driven by that power, nearly one hundred 
 steam boats, from 40 to 500 tons burden. The length 
 of the Mississippi exceeds 3000 miles ; it extends above 
 
fVfwm^m 
 
 20 
 
 PRELIMINARY llEMAUKS. 
 
 M 
 
 'in 
 
 U'' a 
 
 It H' 
 
 K ill 
 
 its junction with the Missouri, more than IGOO iiiiles.-^ 
 The latter, both in magnitude and length, exceeding tlie 
 former, may be considered the principal ; its navigable 
 waters extending above its confluence with tiic Missis- 
 sippi, according to Lewis anU Clark, for 3096 miles ; its 
 whole meanderings which are navigable to the Mexican 
 Gulf, being 4491 miles. 
 
 Th& Illinois derives its source from the confluence 
 of the Theakiki and Plein, in the northwest of Indiana. 
 Pursuing generally a northwest course, it is dischar- 
 ged into the Mississippi 21 miles above the Missouri, 
 where its width is 420 yards. Its current is gentle and 
 smooth, unimpeded by falls or rapids, and navigable for 
 400 miles ; much of its banks are overflowed in high 
 waters. Its northern branch, the Plein, interlocks with 
 the Chicago, which flows into lake Michigan. 
 
 The Ohio proceeds from the junction of the Allegany 
 with the Monongahala at Pittsburgh. After a west- 
 southwest course of 949 miles, it discharges into the 
 Mississippi. It varies in breadth from 400 to 1400 yards. 
 At Cincinnati it is 534 yards, which being near its cen- 
 tre, may be regarded as its mean breadth. Its current 
 is gentle and smooth, unbroken by rapids or falls, ex- 
 cept at Louisville. It yields to but few streams in 
 point of convenience for inland navigation ; as theope- 
 ration of canalling and locking the falls has lately been 
 commenced, and is likely to be successfully prosecuted. 
 The height of the fall is 22^ feet ; the extent of the de- 
 clivity two miles. The greatest extremes of variation in 
 the altitude of the surface of the river is 60 feet ; when 
 lowest, is fordable in divers places above Louisville. 
 
 The Wabash rises near the head waters of the rivers 
 8t Joseph and the Maumee, and running in a south- 
 
TRELIMINART REMARKS. 
 
 21 
 
 westwardlj direction, empties into the Ohio, 30 milei 
 above the Cumberland. It is upwards of 500 miles long, 
 400 yards wide at its mouth, and navigable for keel 
 boats about 400 miles to Ouiatan, an ancient French vil- 
 lage. From thence by small craft, to a portage of eight 
 miles in extent, to a south branch, which forms a commu- 
 nication with the Maumee, which flows into Lake Erie* 
 Above Vir cennes the Wabash is gentle, between that and 
 White river is an obstruction called the Great Rapids, 
 which renders it unusually arduous to navigate with 
 boats, for the distancfe of more ^an a mile. . 
 
 The Great Miami is about 130 yards wide for 46 
 miles up; its head waters between latitude 40° and 41", 
 interlock with the Masasinaway, a branch of the Wa- 
 bash ; the Augluze and St Mary, branches of the Ma^- 
 mee ; and the Scioto. It has generally a rapid current, 
 but destitute of considerable falls ; flows through a wide 
 fertile valley, which it partly floods in high waters.— 
 At Dayton, about 75 miles from the mouth, the Miami 
 unites with the Madriver on the east From this place, 
 in tlie high waters, flats freighting three or four hundred 
 barrels, pass safely into the Ohio. But from the rapidity 
 of the current, sand bars and mill dams, ascending tiiii 
 stream with boats is sa diflicult, it is rarely attempted. 
 
 The Cumberland proceeds from Cumberland moun- 
 tains, and interlocks with the head waters of Clinch and 
 Kentucky rivers — rises in the southeast part of the state 
 of Kentucky, through which it flows westward ly more 
 than 200 miles, enters the state of Tennessee, and mean- 
 dering 120 miles, reaches Nashville, nearly in latitude 
 35° — from thence flowing northwest 120 miles, when it 
 join!? the Ohio. 
 
 The Tennessee is one of the largest rivers in the 
 western country, and is navigable for large boats more 
 
\^^ 
 
 22 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 li- i 
 
 than 1000 miles. It rises in the northeast part of the 
 •late, and traverses the whole width of East Tennessee 
 in a southwest direction, and entering the northeast an> 
 gle of the state of Alabama, the whole width of which it 
 crosses, and turning just at the northwest angle of Ala- 
 bama, it pursues a north direction nearly in a direct line 
 with the eastern boundary of that state, across the width 
 of Tennessee and part of Kentucky, to the river Ohio. 
 
 The Tombiobee rises within a few miles of the Mus- 
 cle shoals, flows southwardly near the line between the 
 states of Mississippi and Alabama— ^joins the Alabama 45 
 miles above Mobile bay, and 75 above the Gulf of Mexi- 
 co, to form the river Mobile. It is navigable for large 
 vessels to Fort Stoddert, and at some seasons to St. Ste- 
 phens. Being about 450 miles long, and navigable for 
 boats the greater part of its course. 
 
 The Alabama gives name to the state jo called. It 
 is formed by the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa, 
 and flowing south-southwest, unites with the Tombigbee 
 45 miles above Mobile bay, to form the river Mobile.*— 
 From the junction to Fort Claiborne, 60 miles, it is navi- 
 gable at all seasons for vessels drawing six feet of water. 
 From Fort Claiborne to the mouth of the Cahaba, about 
 150 miles, the river has four or five feet of water. From 
 the mouth of the Cahaba to the junction of the Coosa 
 and Tallapoosa, the navigation generally continues good, 
 the river affording three feet of water in the shallowest 
 places. This river is subject to great variation in rising 
 and falling. 
 
 West of the Mississippi we huve omitted rivers more 
 considerable, than several described, because in that new 
 and extensive region, the artificial boundaries of states 
 and territories have not yet been established to divide the 
 principal streams. 
 
miELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 23 
 
 Projected Canals, which are intended to unite in a 
 water communication, the great western lakes to the 
 streams falling into the Mississippi, have long occupied 
 the attention of curious travellers and enterprising tia- 
 ders. Of this description it is said there are six, that 
 might open a passage for boats from lakes flrie and 
 Michigan to the Mississippi. One near Presfjuc Isle, 
 ^\here the navigation of French Creek, a branch of the 
 Allegany, approaches within 10 or 12 miles of the lake. 
 Of the practicability of excavating a canal at this portage, 
 we have not distinct information. Another is between a 
 branch of the Muskingum, called Tuscarawa, and the 
 Cuyahoga, a stream which joins I^ake Erie at Cleveland. 
 This portage does not exceed 10 or 12 miles, at which 
 place the prosj^ect of procuring a water communication 
 between the streams induced Congress to appropriate 
 100,000 acres of public lands to effect this project j which 
 public bounty has not yet been called into action. A 
 third proposed canal is to unite the waters of the Mau- 
 mee with the Big Miami, by connecting Loramies Creek, 
 one of the chief navigable streams of the latter, either 
 with the St. Mary or the Auglaize, both streams of the 
 Maumee. The latter is the most direct, and aflfords the 
 most water ; but its current is the most rapid, and its 
 channel more stony and less secure than the former. — 
 Tlie most southern points of navigation on these streams 
 are distant about 20 miles, and approach within from 10 
 to 18 miles to navigation on the Loramies. This space 
 is nearly level, the surface of which is composed of loam 
 and clay. It yet remains uncertain, whether the St. Ma- 
 ry or the Auglaize deserves the preference of being con- 
 nected with a canal, or if dug, whether that could be fed 
 with sufficient water. Eight miles above Fort Wayne, a 
 
S4 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 i ' 
 
 fourth water passage might be opened between the head 
 waters of the Wabash and the St. Mary ; where the in- 
 termediate space is so low and level, that loaded boats 
 in hi^ water pass from the Wabash to the Lake with fa- 
 :Tlity — And so promising are the appearances for open- 
 ing a canal here at a small expence, that Congress have 
 made a provision to effect it in like manner as above 
 mentioned, by appropriating 100,000 acres of land. A 
 fifth canal has been projected between the Plein, a stream 
 of the Illinois, and the Chicago, flowing into the Lake 
 Michigan ; the waters of these two streams are so nearly 
 on the same horizontal level, that during freshets boats 
 can conveniently pass from the one to the other — A like 
 provision as above mentioned is made by Congress to 
 open a water passage at this place. A very particular 
 report has been lately made by commissioners to the 
 Secretary at War, stating the practicability of opening a 
 canal here, at a moderate expence. A sixth canal is 
 projected to connect the Ouisconsing, a stream of th<», 
 Mississippi, with Fox River flowing into Green Bay, an 
 arm of Lake Michigan. 
 
 Soil, Vegetable PRODUcnoifs, Fruit and Forest 
 Trees, and Remarks on Agriculture^— The prevail- 
 ing qualities of the soil in the west, are, a decomposition 
 of limestone and calcareous earths, intermixed with a 
 large portioA of vegetable loam. It has a good depth, 
 and is strong and durable. To the north of 35° north 
 latitude, which includes the states of Ohio, Indiana, Il- 
 linois, Kentucky, Tennessee, and the Missouri 4erritory, 
 are produced in abundance, wheat, rye, barley, oats, 
 maize, tobacco, culinary vegetables, apples^ pears, pead^ 
 es, plumbs and cherries ; hemp, flax, and some cotton— 
 The Utter/ however, being subject to late venial aiMl 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 25 
 
 t>arly autumnal frosts, is not mucK cultivated above lati- 
 (lule 35*', except in Tennessee. Between this latitude 
 and the Giilf coast, cotton and sugar cane crops princi- 
 pally engross the attention of the farmer. Cotton, above 
 Cy5°y and sugar cane, above 30°, are precarious crops.— 
 Tlie latter is the most lucrative crop of any which cau 
 be raised in the United States ; and to the sugar, the cot- 
 ton crop is next in value. It is a remarkable coinci- 
 dence, that sugar cane commences on the line of climate 
 where snow ceases. Indigo and rice have been found to 
 flourish well here, but they have latterly been neglected 
 for the more profitable crops of cotton and sugar, which 
 are the present staples of this portion of the country. 
 
 Most of the vegetable productions, however, of the up- 
 per region, flourisli south of 35°. In addition to the fruits 
 produced above th.at latitude, grow below it the fig, pome- 
 granate and orange. And it has been ascertained, that 
 tlie olive and the wine grape would also flourish, if pro- 
 perly cultivated. It is confidently believed, that the tea 
 plant would thrive v.'till, if transplanted into this soil and 
 climate. An experiment of this kiiid would be an object 
 worthy the attention of the general government. 
 
 So inconsiderable was the production of cotton (v hich 
 now forms one of the gi-and staples of commerce in the 
 United States) before tlie treaty of Jay, in 1794, that the 
 regulation of its mart was not provided foi; in that na- 
 tional compact. Of so little importance was that great 
 source of future weahh, at that time held in estimation 
 by that able statesman. 
 
 The coffee tree, tlie product of whic'n, habit has fixed 
 among the articles of necessity, and rendered one of the 
 most important sources of traffic in America, was not in- 
 digenous there ; nor was it known it would grow in that 
 
 C 
 
26 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 I ^ 
 
 tilii 
 
 'HI 
 
 
 Ki 
 
 ^i 
 
 quarter of the globe, till more than a century had elapsed 
 from its discovery, when the coffee ti'ee was transplant- 
 ed from Asia into the West Indies. From tlie nature of 
 the soil and climate of Louisiana, Mississippi and Alaba- 
 ma, may we not confidently hope, that a fair experiment 
 there, would prove successful, in the cultivation of the 
 olive and the coffee tree, the tea plant and the wine 
 grape ? 
 
 The state of Tejinessee, which brings forth a greater 
 variety of vegetable productions than any state in the 
 Dnion, may be considered a middle link in "the west, 
 which forms a medium of climate between the north and 
 the sou til. 
 
 The main business of common laborers, constituting 
 the great mass of population in the west, will be the cul- 
 tivation of the lands. Although the prolific qualities of 
 the soil, render less skill and labor necessary here, for 
 the sustentation of life, than on the shores of the Atlan- 
 tic ; for the amusement of the curious, and the instruc- 
 tion of those whose laborious manner of life has not 
 spared tliem leisure to trace the sensible eftccts in the 
 vegetable k ngdom to their proper \ auses, we have been 
 induced to submit the following remarks. 
 
 Soil lias a great capacity of absorbing and retaining 
 putrid effluvia, proceeding from dead animal bodies, and 
 decayed vegetables. And that, when saturated with such 
 particles, it docs not easily part with them, appears from 
 the long stench of dead bodies, covered by the surface of 
 the ground, and the healthy state of the cultivator, whose 
 daily employment is that of stirring up the soil. Nor 
 does it appear that the ground, when turned up, emits 
 any noxious qualities to the air ; the smell of moist earth 
 being commonly agreeable and wholesome. Hence tlio 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 elapsed 
 isplant- 
 ature of 
 I Alaba- 
 )eiiment 
 ti of the 
 ;lie wine 
 
 I greater 
 ite in the 
 the west, 
 lorth and 
 
 nstituting 
 be the cul- 
 ualities of 
 here, for 
 [he Atlan- 
 |ie instriic- 
 fe has not 
 cts in the 
 have been 
 
 «7 
 
 restoration of health to those used to a city life, from tra- 
 versing cultivated fields, and partaking of rural exercises. 
 
 Dry earth is without smell, until it is moistened to a 
 soft pap, when it diffuses a strong and delightsome efflu- 
 via, retaining putrid particles, whicli cliieHy constitute 
 the food of plants i and at the same time exhaling a 
 smell delightful to the sense, and salubrious to the con- 
 stitution of man. 
 
 The putrefaction of dead animals in air and water is 
 offensive; while the same process in eartli, emits fra- 
 grant odours. Thus it appears, tliat air and water act 
 as powerful solvents, but cannot litmsform and com- 
 pound like earth, substances to wliicli it is exposed.— 
 '■:M It will be worthy our attention to consider what imme- 
 morially has been done to the soil, with a view to pro- 
 mote vegetation. 
 
 Long and various experience have proved, tliat most 
 soils may be ameliorated by some of the means that fol- 
 low : — 
 
 1. Frequent jdoit^hingy or fallowing, exposes the dif- 
 ferent qualities of the soil to the action of the air and sun, 
 which operate as dissolvents on tlie many roots and ve- 
 getables with which it generally abounds ; and the earth 
 being decomposed from them, mixes with the soil, and 
 these by the prolific powers of the whole, are brought in- 
 to action, to further tlic process of vegetation. As stir- 
 ing the earth tends to destroy the oils and salts, it would 
 seem that they ought not to be considered tlie food of 
 vegetables, nor that such a process contributes to extract 
 from the air nitrous salts, which have always proved det- 
 rimental to vegetation. 
 
 2. Overjloiving of ground produces fertility iu a 
 ^manner not unlike ploughing, by effecting putridity and 
 
im" 
 
 S8 
 
 rilELIMTXAIlY REMARKS. 
 
 decomposition. It first stops, and eventually destroys 
 (if continued) existing vegetation, except it be of the 
 aquatic kind. But its effect after the waters are with- 
 drawn, combined with the sun^s heat, is to decompose the 
 old vegetable gr«)wth, with the fresh alluvion brought on, 
 and tlierebj wonderfully to fertilise the soil. 
 
 3. Manuring is another process, by which to promote 
 vegetation. The principal manures which have been 
 found most efficacious, are : 1. lime, chalk, marl, shells, 
 and otlier earths, calle i calcareous, which are all of the 
 same nature ; 2. soot ; S, ashes ; 4. dung of different 
 kinds. Calcareous earths, such as lime, chalk, marl, &c. 
 contain neither salt nor oil of any kind. The most bene- 
 ficial effect of these (*?.lcareous earths, is that of decom- 
 posing and reducing to a fine light loam all dead animal 
 and vegetable substances ; of a similar nature to which 
 is supposed to be soot. Ashes, and all kinds of dung, 
 have been proved to be not unlike calcareous manures, 
 in their effects on the soil. 
 
 It follows, from what we have premised, that a farmer, 
 to produce good crops, if he find his land in a fertile con- 
 dition, should pursue a course of cultivation tiiat will not 
 impoverish the soil. If his soil be baiTen, he should im- 
 pregnate it, by all practicable means, with substances 
 which contain putrid matter, or which are in their own 
 nature, dissolvents, or promoters of putrefaction and de- 
 composition. 
 
 It has been thouglit not improper to subjoin the fore- 
 going brief summary, as an outline of the theory of agii- 
 culture, verified by modern philosophical experiments, 
 an i recommended by the most successful cultivators.— 
 Such are the materials which form the surface of the 
 eartli, that it was deemed a few hin^ on what constituted 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 S9 
 
 promote 
 have been 
 Arl, shells, 
 J all of the 
 ,f different 
 i, marl, &c- 
 mostbene- 
 t of decom- 
 lead animal 
 re to which 
 ds of dung, 
 as manures, 
 
 lat a farmer, 
 
 1 fertile con- 
 J\at will not 
 e should im- 
 \ substances 
 n their own 
 :tion and dc- 
 
 oin the fore- 
 leory of agri- 
 experiments, 
 
 ;ultivators.— 
 irface of the 
 it constituted 
 
 the fertility of the soil, and the means of restoring it, when 
 exhausted, would not be inconsistent with our design. 
 
 Another extent of surface in a body, covered with lime 
 and calcareous earth, (with rare exceptions, and those 
 confined to small portions,) so large, is not perhaps to 
 be found on the face of the globe. This calcareous re- 
 gion extends from tlie great lake waters, eastwardly to 
 the foot of the Allegany mountains ; to the most eastern 
 boundary of the state of Tennessee, and westwardly over 
 the Mississippi to the unexplored regions. The soil co- 
 vei-ing this extensive tract, may be considered geneially 
 as consisting of materials derived from the decomposition 
 of limestone and shells, intermixed with a large propor- 
 tion of loam, composed of decayed vegetables. Hence 
 the great fertility, strength and durability of the soil. — 
 The exuberant foliage and vegetation, that have been 
 accumulating on the surface for ages, without being 
 exhausted by crops, have been constantly changing into 
 nutriment for trees and plants, by the digestive qualities 
 of the calcareous eartlis, witli which they come in con- 
 tact ; the earth operating on the decayed vegetables not 
 unlike the action of the gastric juice on food taken into 
 the stomach. Thus has nature provided for the husband- 
 man, in the soil of this new countrv, if rural labors be 
 rightly managed, inexhaustible means of support and 
 sources of wealth. 
 
 He is fortunately exempted from that tedious and ex- 
 pensive process of h.anuring, to which the farmers of old 
 settled countries, rendered sterile by a long course of 
 cropping, are necessarily subjected. Here the cultiva- 
 tor has little else to do than to clear off, fence, and so 
 husband his ground as to preserve its original fertility, 
 and nature Vt'ill perform the rest. 
 
3b 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 As before observed, most of the stones are lime. Over 
 a large portion of tlie surface of tlic west, they form a 
 kind of strata. Being shaped fiat, from one to nine inch- 
 es thick, they are very portable, easily broken with a ham- 
 mer, and arc convenient for walls of buildings, cellars, 
 and varioas other uses. But as clay of a good quality, 
 is commonly abundant, bricks are generally preferable 
 for building.. The manner in which nature has provided 
 for the convenience of rural husbandry, in disposing of 
 these stones, is worthy of curious remark. They are 
 placed just below the soil, where they oppose no obstruc- 
 tion to the plough, and yet they are handy to be come at, 
 and may be generally found between tlie soil and the 
 clay, or pan, on gentle declivities, where the rains by 
 washing down the soil, which is remarkable for its levity 
 and fineness of texture, has left them bare, and rendered 
 them accessible without digging. 
 
 Growth of Timber, Trees, &c. — The forest trees of 
 the west grow to an uncommon height ; are generally 
 straight and free from limbs for a great distance from 
 the ground. Several species, as tlie sycamore, the pop- 
 lar, the white oak and black walnut, grow to an extraor- 
 dinary size, some of which have been found to exceed 
 thirty feet in circumference near the ground. The fol- 
 lowing species are among the principal trees, which are 
 scattered pretty generally over the greater part of the 
 western forests : Black walnut, butternut, various kinds 
 of hickory and oak, sugar maple,* red flowering maple, 
 cotton wood, aspen,* buckeye, sassafras, red bud, wild 
 cherry, sycamore, pawpaw, black locust, poplar, beech, 
 chesnut, horn beam, red cedar, hackberry, persimmon, 
 elm, white, swamp and blue ash. South of 35°, some of 
 tlie above epecies are rarely found, particularly such a& 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS, 
 
 31 
 
 are marked*. Water pine, pitch pine, the latter of which 
 is far the most prevalent of any species in the south; 
 cypress, and live-oak (the latter affording the most valu- 
 able timber for ship frames of any in the United States) 
 are rarely discoverable further north than 35°. There 
 are many other less considerable species of trees in the 
 western forests, besides a rich shrubbery ; various kinds 
 of wild plumbs, grapes and berries, and almost an infinite 
 diversity of herbaceous vegetables, many of which afford 
 valuable ingredients fey tlie materia medica. 
 
 A traveller passing from the Atlantic states, over the 
 lofty region of the Allegany, and descending into the 
 Ohio valley, is agreeably surprised, on finding nature ar- 
 rayed in a novel and more splendid garb. Plants, trees 
 and every species of vegetation, exhibit an appearance to 
 which lie has been unaccustomed. They are formed on 
 a grander scale — their dimensions being greatly enlarg- 
 ed, and their foliage having imbibed a deeper and more 
 vivid green. 
 
 Climate, Diseases, &,c.— Our speculations on the cli- 
 mate of the west may principally be confined to that re- 
 gion which lies between latitude 29° and 44°, and 3° and 
 23° west longitude. Most of the remaining tracts, for 
 reasons already assigned, will probably continue in a 
 wilderness state for a century. To the northward of 
 42°, the country between the high lands, that divide the 
 waters of the IVlissouri and the Mississippi, to lake Michi- 
 gan, including the territory of Michigan, being exposed 
 to the winds which pour down over the Rocky and Chip- 
 pewan mountains from the frozen regions of the north- 
 west, is much colder than the Atlantic states, under the 
 same latitude. It may generally be observed, that tho 
 temperature of the atmosphere, west of the Alleganies^ 
 
S2 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 is more variable in the winter, and less in the summer 
 months, than in the northern Atlantic states. In the for- 
 mer, the heat of the summer does not so much excel in 
 degree, as in durability and uniformity. It therefore is 
 not so sensibly felt, because the human body acquires a 
 habit which renders the indurance of the same extreme 
 more tolerable. And tiie same remark will apply in 
 northern latitudes, with respect to extreme cold. 
 
 Thaf region, whose temperature of heat through the 
 various seasons is the most uniform, and which produces 
 the fewest uneasy sensations in the human constitution, 
 other causes affecting health being equal, may be consi- 
 dered the most salubrious. The region of the west, be- 
 tween latitude 35° and 40°, generally possesses a climate 
 as nearly perhaps corresponding to the one last described, 
 as any section of the United States. Within this tract, 
 extending over five degrees due north, there is, however, 
 considerable variation ; local causes often producing more 
 sensible effects on health, than variation of latitude- 
 Here, as in other places, elevated situations being gene- 
 rally accompanied with pure air and running streams of 
 limpid water, are the most healthy. Stagnant waters, 
 putrid animals and vegetables, are among the principal 
 causes, in summer months, which engender disease.— 
 Exuberant vegetation springing up from level, marshy 
 grounds, saturated and covered with still waters, shaded 
 by thick forest trees, when acted upon by an ardent sun, 
 are a fruitful cause of diseases in all climates, but parti- 
 cularly so in southern latitudes, where the air suspends, 
 in the form of vapor, large quantities of humid particles. 
 
 It is not uncommon for the human species to enjoy per- 
 fect health, while exposed to heat exceeding 90 degrees 
 of Farenheit's thermometer, if situated remote from the 
 
rRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 33 
 
 influence of animal and vegetable substances, that have 
 become putrid and decomposed by the action of heat and 
 moisture. The first settlers of a country covered with 
 woods, are naturally inclined to select for their places of 
 residence the richest soil, which \< commonly found on 
 the margins of languid streams, whose alluvial shores 
 consist of decayed vegetables, not sufficiently exposed to 
 the rays of the sun to expel the miasmata, with which tliey 
 are surcharged. And these settlers, possessing vigorous 
 and robust constitutions from northern latitudes, where 
 they have been accustomed to a dry, pure air, are the most 
 apt subjects to be acted upon, by those noxious effluvia, 
 which are the powerful sources of human maladies. In- 
 stead of employing the late fall or winter months for 
 occupying their new habitations, they emigrate and seat 
 themselves down, during the periods when heat and mois- 
 ture produce tlieir most destructive effects on the con- 
 stitution. Not taught from necessity, in their native 
 land, to avoid the night air, by filling up the chinks of 
 their cabbins, keeping themselves within doors after the 
 evening vapors are suspended, and preventing the causei 
 of noxious exhalations, proceeding from water and slops 
 gpilled through the floors of their houses, they are un- 
 warily taken down by malignant fevers, before their 
 constitution becomes tempered to the climate, and their 
 new mode of living. Hence the reputation, acquired to 
 the country, of an unhealthy and sickly climate. The 
 lake countries, and the low rich alluvial soils, bordering 
 on still and languid streams, even in the northern lati- 
 tudes of the state of New York, the northern part of 
 Ohio, and the two Canadas, abundantly verify the fore* 
 going remarks. In which places, we ourselves, during a 
 long residence there, have witnessed, tliat as soon as th« 
 
34 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 it w' 
 
 llv 
 
 1. 
 
 thick woods and wild vegetables, with which tlie ground 
 was covered, were removed by culture, a good state of 
 healtli has been generally restored, and the peasant has 
 pursued his rural labors with his usual vigor and cheer- 
 fulness. 
 
 But it is not to be disguised, there are many situations 
 westward, extending over considerable tracts of rich land, 
 which nature has rendered incapable of being so improved 
 by the hand of man, as to be eligible spots, in point of 
 health, for permanent settlements. Of this description 
 are the borders of stagnant waters, which cannot be 
 drained, and champaign grounds, from which overflowed 
 waters cannot find an outlet, nor a passage into the earth 
 beneath. As they partially dry up, tlie surrounding at- 
 mosphere is contaminated with their noxious exlialations. 
 There are other places not uniformly healtliy, on margins 
 of rivers that flood occasionally, once in five or sir^ years, 
 during a season when an exuberant crop of vegetables 
 cover the ground. Such occurrences are often followed 
 by malignant diseases, proceeding from tlie putridity of 
 the vegetables, after the waters have subsided. But all 
 sites for permanent settlements, like those, prudent cmi- 
 gi'ants will avoid. After the country becomes populous, 
 and the best stands are occupied, these insalubrious spots 
 • may be rendered very useful in divers ways, other than to 
 be occupied as places of habitation. 
 
 It must, however, be acknowledged as a fact, that there 
 is less elasticity of air, in the western, tlian the north- 
 western states. The langour and ennui continue more 
 uniformly through the summer, and is not so frequently 
 relieved by tlie bracing tone of the n orning and evening 
 air. But, on the other hand, in the west, the winter air 
 is but seldom accompanied with that extreme raw chilling 
 
PKELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 3d 
 
 atmosphere, which frequently and suddenly succeeds a 
 milder temperature at tlie northwest, and lays the foun- 
 dation of mortal pulmonary diseases. Such diseases be- 
 ini5 often produced, as is conceived, by loading the lungs 
 witli that extraneous matter which usually passes oft" by 
 perspiration through the pores of the skin, which a moist, 
 cold, raw air tends to obstruct or seal up. Our own ob- 
 servations have convinced us, that west of the Alleganies 
 there does not one death, caused by pulmonary com- 
 plaints, happen for ten by the same disease in the north- 
 ern states, within the same extent of population. 
 
 The diseases vulgarly called the spotted fever, and cold 
 2^logue, which in the severest seasons of winter cold, at 
 the northeast, have occasionally made dreadful ravages, 
 and proved extensively malignant and mortal, in the west 
 have rarely made their appearance. 
 
 On the whole, it is confidently believed, that by pru- 
 dent care, health may be as effectually preserved, and life 
 as pleasantly enjoyed, so far as depends on climate, and 
 as long protracted generally, west of the Alleganies, as in 
 any part of the Atlantic States. 
 
 MIXEllALS. 
 
 The tract of country commencing on the west bank 
 of the Mississippi, a little south of the St. Francis, and 
 proceeding near the former, upwards, about 200 miles, 
 and extending in that width in a direction parallel with 
 the main courses of the St. Francis and the White 
 rivers, about 600 miles, contains lead minerals, which 
 abound more generally and extensively, it is believed, 
 tlian in any other mineral tract in the known world In 
 all the great rivers which traverse this region, such as 
 the Maramack, the Gasconade, the Osage, the Mine ri- 
 ver of the Missouri, the Le Moines, and the Mississippi, 
 
35 
 
 FRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 U'low the Ouisconsirjg, the ore in numerous places is 
 diacovored in their channels, and in the ravines, where 
 the soil has* been removed hy the waters. 
 
 The mineH at the Ouisconsinj, on the MissiHsIppi, a- 
 bove the Praire du Chien, are in tlie possession of the 
 Sacs and Foxen, They are exclusively wrought by tliose 
 tribes of Indians, and are supposed to be the richest yet 
 discovered. . 
 
 The productive lead mines, which at present arc 
 wrought, lie between the St. Francis and the Maramack, 
 embracing a tract about §0 miles long, and 25 wide.— 
 The common mode of refining lead ore is very simple ; 
 there being but one regular furnace, the rest are mere 
 temporary establishments. The most common are built 
 on the declivity of a hill, with stones, open at tlie top, 
 with an arch below. Three large iogs, of a size to fit 
 the furnace, about four feet w ide, ate covered with small 
 pieces of wood placed roun<l, and the ore is then heaped 
 up in large lump«. If fire be set to it in tlie evening, by 
 the next morning a sufficient quantity of lead will be 
 melted in the reservoir, or hole scratched in the earth 
 before the arch, to commence the operation of pouring it 
 into moulds to form pigs. There usually are several of 
 these furnaces joined together : about 6000 pounds of 
 ore are put into each ; and the first smelting produces 
 50 per cent besides leaving a quantity of scorched ore. 
 The ashes containing paiticles of scorched ore are wash- 
 ed and smelted in a furnrxe of difterent construction, and 
 yield 25 or 30 per cent, more ; 75 per cent, being the 
 usual amount yielded by this rude process. Three new 
 modes of smelting have been introduced by the Ameri- 
 cans, viz. the open furnace, the ash furnace, and the air 
 furnace. The Creoles never having before smelted, 
 
PRELIMINARY ItEMAHKS. 
 
 37 
 
 »js places is 
 vines, where 
 
 [Ississlppi, a- 
 issioii of the 
 jght by those 
 e richest yet 
 
 m 
 
 present aic 
 J Maramack, 
 : 25 wide.— 
 I'^ery simple ; 
 est are mere 
 lion are built 
 I at the top, 
 a size to fit 
 d with small 
 then heaped 
 i evening, by 
 lead will be 
 in the earth 
 of pouring it 
 e several of 
 pounds of 
 ng produces 
 rorched ore. 
 re arc wash- 
 ruction, and 
 it. being the 
 Three new 
 the Ameri- 
 and the air 
 re smelted* 
 
 ixcept by throwing the ore into log iieaps. Arsenic and 
 
 Isulpliui- being combined with the ore, the fumes proceed- 
 
 phg from the heat render the process of refining un- 
 
 lealthy. On the other hand, mining or digging for the 
 
 )re, is considered favorable to health. 
 
 About forty miles from St. Genevievo, on a branch of 
 
 |the Maramack, is Mine a Burton, discovered by Francis 
 
 lurton, who obtained a grant of land, and commenced 
 
 working the ore, more than forty years ago. It is now 
 
 >wned and worked by Mr. Austin, who has erected a 
 
 jood smelting furnace at tlie place, wliich is now called 
 
 *otosi. Although this ore is not of the first quality, it 
 
 ^as been worked more extensirely and successfully than 
 
 any other mine yet discovered ; and the product has 
 
 J well rewarded the expenses of the proprietor. The 
 
 :^|ore is dug from an open praira, elevated almost 100 feet 
 
 jabove the level of the creek, and is supposed to extend 
 
 , over some thousands of acres. The mineral is found 
 
 within two feet of the surface, in f* strata of gravel, in 
 
 which it lies in lumps of from one to fifty pounds weight, 
 
 . Under this strata is a sand rock, easily broken up with 
 
 . i a pickax, and when exposed to the air, crumbles to fine 
 
 sand. The ore intermixed in the sand rock is similar 
 
 ; to that in the upper gravel strata. Under the sand rock 
 
 I is a strata of red clay, more than six feet thick ; beneath 
 
 [the clay is the best ore, in lumps from ten to two or three 
 
 hundred pounds weight. Some portion of arsenic and 
 
 sulphur, and more or less of spar, antimony and zinc, 
 
 are sometimes found intermixed with the ore, which 
 
 yields from 60 to 75 per cent* 
 
 JSTew Digging*, about two miles east of the Mine a 
 Burton, were opened about the year 1806; and the/ 
 attracted so much attention, as to draw most of the 
 
38 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 miners thither from other places. Ami it has been sup- 
 posed, that in the year during which fhese mines were 
 worked, more lead was made, than has been manufac- 
 tured for the same period of time ever since. But till 
 of late, these mines have been almost abandoned, from 
 ititerruption by water; which embarrassment is in a 
 manner now removed by machinery. 
 
 Jline Jirnaulf, north of the Mine a Burton about six 
 miles, is situated upon a branch of the Mineral Fork. — 
 This mine has not been wrought n^any years. It is be- 
 lieved that a rich mine exists very near this p'jace. 
 
 Elliot's Diggings, Old Mines, and the mines of Belle 
 Fontaine, are all in the same vicinity. Some of which 
 have been productive ; others neglected. 
 
 Brown''s Diggings, near those last mentioned, have 
 produced nearly one million pounds of lead in a year. 
 
 The La Platte„Joe's, and sev€iral otlier mines on tlie 
 head waters of the Maramack, exhibit appearanves of 
 being rich, but have not as yet been thoroughly explored. 
 
 There are several other mines iu this part of the 
 country, whiclvwe have omitted to particularise, where 
 lead has been manufactured to a good profit. 
 
 Mine a Burton, since Mr. Austin's improvements, is 
 calculated to produce to the amouiit of S20,00() a year. 
 Hence it may be p'*esumed diat many of the other mines, 
 by proper management, would yield a great profit. 
 
 The men now employed in mining, and refining the 
 ore, at the several lead mines, are supposed to exceed 
 five hundred; and it is believed thai more than one 
 thousand tons of lead are produced annually. When 
 extensively exploded and wot-ked, there can be no doubt 
 the lead mines of the west will, besides supplying the 
 United States with that article, congticute cne of tli*» 
 grand staples for exportation. 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS, 
 
 39 
 
 Iron Ore is obtained in large quantities, and wrought, 
 on the Sou ih Licking, four miles west of Zanesville ; on 
 Brush creek, and in some other places in the state of 
 Ohio. It is also found plentifully in the bluft's of tbc 
 IJounty Lands, and in the Sanguamon country, in the 
 state cf Illinois. It is plenty, and of a good quality, near 
 Brownstown, on the East Fork of White river ; and on 
 the various knobs whicli are planted between the Falls 
 of the Ohio and the Wabash, in the state of Indiana. It 
 is also found in rome parts of the state of Alabama. 
 
 Copper mines have been discovered in some parts cf 
 the state of Illinois ; but we have no definite knowledge 
 of their extent or quality. We can, however, speak with 
 more assurance of the copper mines near the Mississippi. 
 They begin near the Falls of St. Anthony, and eytend 
 out to St. Croix, near lake Superior. The southern lihore 
 of lake Superior is supposed to display the largest and 
 richest mines of this metal in the world. Gen. B's$ell, 
 by order of President Adams, in 1797, was sent out to 
 explore the mines in that place ; and his report, accom- 
 panied with the specimens brought in, was so satisfactory, 
 that an establishment of a company to work the mines 
 was projected. But Mr. Adams's term of office expirinjg 
 before this wise policy was carried into effect, the mea- 
 sure was abandoned, and has not since been resumed. 
 
 Salines. — West of the lead mineral tract, previously 
 described, is that of the saline? It runs parr, del with 
 the other, but goes farther south, and not so far north. 
 The extent, however, being but partially ascertained, 
 can be but partially defined. No salines yet discovered 
 in North America will bear a comparison with ihese. 
 On the Arkansaw and Osage, they are very numerous. 
 When the waters of the former are Iqw, it in so brackish. 
 
40 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 '!F 
 
 that boatmen navigating the river are* compelled to pro- 
 vide fresli water, as on a vo}«ige upjn the ocean. At 
 the salines on the Osage, there is a greater number of 
 huge mammotii bones, and of other animals, now extinct, 
 than at the Big Bone Lick, or any other part of AmericrK 
 
 Nature seems to have bountifully provided for the in- 
 habitants of the west, so remote from the ocean, salt, that 
 indispensable necessary. Licks and salt springs arc 
 found in almost every portion of the western country. 
 
 The salines on Kenhawa river, in the western part of 
 Virginia, furnish the most considerable quantity of ?alt, | 
 which is at present consumed between the Alleganies 
 and the Mississippi. Here the salt water, as in many 
 other places, is obtained by penetrating the earth M'i^h 
 an augef, from 100 to 400 feet deep. The salt v/a'^v i 
 generally deposited in divers extensive narrow cavi^oi., 
 from one to five inches thick, expanded parallel with th** 
 strata of limestone which encloses it. At the town of 
 New-Lexington, Indiana, one salt well has bften sunk 
 through the rocks with an auger 730 feet ; the water is 
 strong, but the quantity too limited to be much worked. 
 The fresh water near the surface is commonly excluded 
 by a gum or curb, consisting of a hollow log, wliich ex- 
 tends to tlie solid rock, where it is made water tight. I'lic 
 gait water is always forced up to the level of the fre>h 
 water stream which flows near by. For, witliout a streain 
 of fiesh water nigh, on the surftice, it is said, the salt 
 water cannot be raised. 
 
 Jn the state of Kentucky, amojig divers salt springs o» 
 licks of less note, the five most considerable are : tb 
 Upper and Lower Blue Springs, on Licking river ; Big 
 Bone Lick ; Dre'uion's Lick, and Bullitt's Lick, at Salts- 
 burgh. Tlie amount of salt made in this state,* at the 
 
PKELlMlxNARV KEMAKKS. 
 
 41 
 
 several licks, in the year 1816, was computed to exceed 
 oOO.OOO bushels. 
 
 Iti the state of Ohio, considerable salt is made on Yel- 
 low, Killbuck and Alluni creeks; at the Scioto salt 
 works, and on the eastern waters of the Muskingum. 
 
 In the state of Indiana, various salt springs and licks 
 have been found ; but their Maters have not proved strong 
 enougli^ to be worked with much profit. It is believed, 
 howevf^r, tliat by sinking wells, plenty of strong water 
 might be had. 
 
 In the state of Illinois, on the Saline, navigable thirty 
 miles, which joins the Ohio 26 miles below the Wabash, 
 the United States have salt works, where about 300,00b 
 bushels are annually made. Those who hire the works, 
 are obligated to sell the salt at 75 cents per bushel.— 
 Strong indications of salt a'.e frequent in the Bounty 
 Lands, and the Sanguamon country ; but wells liave not 
 yet been sunk, to ascertain the strength and quality of 
 the water. 
 
 Stone Coal abounds in rarious parte of the western 
 country. Large quantities of it have be?n discover jd in 
 the eastern part of the state of Ohio :•— on Big Muddy 
 creek ; on the banks of the Kaskaskia, near the town of 
 that name ; near Edwardsville ; near Alton, and on the 
 Ilrnoi 3, by Illinois lake, vind in some o^her places in the 
 ^ ^^« i:^ Illinois :— on the banks of the iVabash, and on 
 
 ^ y At ■ Fork of White river, near Indostar in the state 
 of Lriftua. Coal is supposed also to be plenty in tlie 
 state of Tennessee, and in the Missouri Territory. It 
 also abounds on the banks of the Caliaba and the Black 
 Warrior, in die state of Alabama. 
 
 Copperas, allum and nitre, arc md to have been found 
 in the state of Tennessee. 
 
43 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 The ancient mounds, fortifications, and spacious high- 
 ways, west of the Alleganies, are the chief works of art, 
 constructed by the ancient inhabitants, that have survived 
 the ravages of time, so as to remain distinguishable from 
 the operations of natural causes. Their number, mag- 
 nitude, and general appearance, all prove that an exten- 
 sive and dense population must have preceded these 
 stupendous works ; and that those who erected them 
 must have possessed a faculty of contrivance, and a 
 spirit of persevering industry, far exceeding any speci- 
 mens of art, or endurance of labor, of which we have any 
 know! -^dge from the ingenuity or labors of common sava- 
 ges, remains of ancient labors are commonly 
 found anic j the most abundant natural means of sus- 
 taining life— such as extensive, champaign, fertile tracts 
 of ground, bounded or intersected by pure streams of 
 running water, where fish might be caught plentifully. 
 The sites for defence have, with much discernment, often 
 been selected on the tops of the highest hills, contiguous 
 to the lands best adapted to cultivation, and near large 
 streams, that abundantly sup plied fish. Thus with bread, 
 fish, vegetables, and the wild game caught from the sur- 
 rounding forest, these ancient people possessed ample 
 means of increasing the number of their tribes. The 
 mounds of the high grounds served for convenient ob- 
 servatories to view tlie rising oi the sun, and of the new 
 and full moon, which in themselves either constituted 
 for those credulous and superstitious people the objects 
 of worship, or served to designate the hours when to 
 offer up to other idols, as gods, their morning and even- 
 ing orisons and sacrifices. Or, perhaps, the elevated spot 
 •f the top of a mound on a hill, might be intended as a 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 43 
 
 khul of watchtower, whence their centinels might espy 
 the approach, and announce the alarm of an enemy. — 
 The spacious dug ways by the side of, and around the 
 adjoining hills, gave them the facility of speedily gaining 
 their fort, securing their persons from attack, and their 
 property from pillage, if suddenly surprised on the low 
 grounds. It is not improbable, that the erection of 
 mounds on the low grounds, might embrace three objects: 
 First, to constitute a post of look out, whereby to be fore- 
 warned of hostile aggression. Secondly, to serve as a 
 monument that would symbolically preserve the memo- 
 rial of extraordinary events respecting the tribe or nation; 
 sucli as a treaty, or a victory, or a wonderful phenomenon 
 of nature— an earthquake, an eclipse of the sun, or & 
 sweeping pestilence. A third object in these mounds, 
 might be, a cemetery for the dead. 
 
 Some large mounds appear to have been found near 
 battle grounds, where the slain were deposited ; as exca- 
 vations in them have displayed fractured bones, that 
 seemed, from the confused posture in which they lay, to 
 have been the relics of bones that have been hastily 
 thrown together. Others appear to be designed as bury- 
 ing grounds of such as died by sickness, or common ttC?»- 
 dents. Large mounds are not unfrequently surrounded 
 by others, of not one-tenth the magnitude ; perhaps the 
 large were used as common, and the small as private 
 family burial places, or as a permanent testimonial of 
 respect for a distinguished chief. Mounds have often 
 been found near the centre of fortifications, or rather in 
 that part which would command the widest prospect.— 
 In these latter have rarely been discovered any human 
 bones. This circumstance induces us to infer, they were 
 intended merely as posts of discovery. It is observable. 
 
44 
 
 1»UEL1M1NAU\ HEM AUKS. 
 
 that the usual Manner of depositing dead bodies, was to 
 place fl:it stones, and then earth ; and so alternately are 
 found layers of skeletons, stones and earth. This custom 
 might be designed as sfllhie superstitious ceremony ; or 
 to protect the dead bodies from ravenous wild beasts. 
 
 These ancient works extend from the southern shores 
 of the Canadian lakes, in a south westward ly direction, 
 through the western part of the state of New York, ami 
 thence across the w estern states, to the plains of Mcrxico. 
 As tiiej' indicate more laborious habits, and a greater po- 
 pulation than the modern tribes of savages possess, and 
 as they have been represented by travellers to be of the 
 same description with those in M<yxico, would it not be a 
 reasonable conjecture to suppose, that the people who 
 erected them were from the same stock ? Perhaps, it 
 would not 80 much resemble romance, as history, to 
 hazard an opinion, that the progenitors of the Mexicans 
 first seated themselves down, on their emigrating to Ame- 
 rica, in the Mississippi and Ohio valleys, or that they 
 came there after settling Mexico, and so multiplied, from 
 the cultivation of the soil, as to extend a numerous popu- 
 lation over most of the best tracts in the western states ; 
 and that, after constructing numerous fortifications for a 
 defence against the savage tribes, who, more fierce and 
 warlike, had more recently found their way from their 
 native country to North America, were by the latter ex- 
 terminated, or driven to the south,, into the Mexican pro- 
 vinces. 
 
 But that We may not dwell too long in the regions of 
 conjectare, where wc can have no light from the faithful 
 page of history to direct our course, v/c will proceed to 
 describe some <^ the most remarkabie of these works 
 yfi&an our knowledge. 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 49 
 
 s, xvus to 
 lately are 
 is custom 
 inony ; or 
 bcai?ts. 
 ?iii shores 
 direction, 
 York, ami 
 jf Mcrxico. 
 !;rcater po- 
 )Sbess, and 
 be of the 
 it not be a 
 people who 
 Perhaps, it 
 history, to 
 J Mexicans 
 ng to Ame- 
 r that they 
 iplied, from 
 crous popu- 
 tern states ; 
 ations for a 
 5 fierce and 
 r from their 
 le latter ex- 
 exican pro- 
 
 ^ regions of 
 the faithful 
 I proceed to 
 Lh«sc works 11 
 
 Xear the confluence of the Ohio and Big Miami, on tlie 
 west bank, is an extensive rich bottom, consisting of seve- 
 ral thousand icres; on, and in the vicinity of which, are 
 several ancient mounds. Northwardly of Hardeiisburgh, 
 one half mile from tlie Miami, on tlie top of a hill, sup- 
 posed to be elevated above the adjoining bottom 150 feet, 
 is a fortification inclosing ten or twelve acres. The wail 
 of earth, from four to five feet high, does nut conform to 
 any exact figure, but is regulated in its direction by the 
 f xtremities of the level ground round the top of the hill, 
 at the highest points of declivity, in an irregular form, so 
 as to inclose all the level ground. There are two or 
 three gate ways. On the south, near where the hill is 
 very steep, within the fort, is a considerable mound, and 
 on the south side of the hill, about one-third of the dis- 
 tance from the base to the top, is a spacious high way, 
 more than thirty feet in width, remarkably level and 
 straight, the excavation on tlie upper side of which in 
 some parts of the hill, is 12 or 15 feet deep ; this high- 
 way extends in length on the side of the hill 160 rods, 
 each end terminating at points where the declivity was 
 gentle, and the ascent easy to the fortification ; within 
 which are two considerable artificial conccavities. The 
 numerous human bones washed bare by the rains, on the 
 sloping places, indicate that the ancient population here 
 was great. 
 
 On tlie opposite side of the Miami, on the top of a hill, 
 is another extensive fortification, described in Doctor 
 Drake's Picture of Cincinnati. Another is discoverable 
 on a hill two miles below Hamilton, containing more than 
 fifty acres, near which is a mound. Various other monu- 
 ments of ancient labors appear in the Miami country. 
 
 Mounds vary both in magnitude and form. Some are 
 
46 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 conical from the base to the top ; others present only tlie 
 lower segment of a cone ; others are somi-globular ; 
 others in the form of a parallelogram. At IVlarietta is 
 one of a conical figure, of seven rods diameter at the base, 
 50 feet high, and 20 feet diameter at top. 
 
 The largest mound which has been found in the Ohio 
 Tallej, stands at Big Grave creek, near the Ohio, 14 miles 
 below Wheeling. It is between 15 and 20 rods diameter 
 at the base, its perpendicular height 70 feet. On the 
 summit nearly 60 feet diameter, in the middle of which 
 is a regular cavity, consisting of about 3000 cubical feet, 
 on which is a handsome green white oak tree, three feet 
 diameter and more than seventy feet high. Within a 
 few rods stand five other smaller mounds. 
 
 The most remarkable appearances of mounds or pyra- 
 mids, in the western country, are on the Mississippi, con- 
 sisting of two groupes. The one about ten miles above 
 the Kahokia, which empties near St. Louis ; and the 
 other nearly the same distance below it — which in all 
 exceed one hundred and fifty. Near St. Louis, within 
 less than a mile of the Mississippi, on the east side, is 
 the upper groupe, which at a little distance resembles a 
 cluster of enormous hay stacks. They are generally cir- 
 cular ; and some of them, at a great height, have space 
 enough on the top to contain several hundred men. The 
 largest of these mounds is a stupendous pile of earth, to 
 form which must have required the labors of thousands 
 for years. It stands immediately on the bank of the Ka- 
 hokia. Were it not for the regularity and design dis- 
 played, the plain alluvial ground on which it stands, and 
 the great number of others scattered around it, we could 
 scarce believe it the work of human hands. The shape 
 is a parallelogram from north to south ; on the south is a 
 
I'llELIMlNARY TIEMARKS. 
 
 47 
 
 broail apron, about half way down, and fioni this another 
 projection, nearly 15 feet wide ; the whole circumference 
 800 yards, and the height of the mound about 90 feet. — 
 The monks of La Trappe have settled near it, who have 
 made the apron into a kitchen garden, and sowed the top 
 Avith wheat. The extraordinary appearance of this clus- 
 ter of mounds, forces conviction on the reflecting mind, 
 that tliey are the only relics which time has secured from 
 oblivion, of a great and populous city. The large mounds 
 were probably sites of temples, and many of the smaller 
 ones monuments of distinguished chiefs. There is per- 
 haps no spot in the west capable of producing more abun- 
 dantly, and supporting a more numerous population than 
 this valley, called the American Bottom, which is a tract 
 of rich alluvion, extending on tlie Mississippi from the 
 Kaskaskia to the Kahokia rivers, about eighty miles in 
 length, and from three to twelve miles in breadth. The 
 great number of mounds, and the surprising quantity of 
 human bones every where dug up, or found on the surface 
 of the ground, with divers other appearances, prove this 
 valley to have been anciently filled wi ;h the habitations 
 of men. 
 
 * Near St. Louis is a curious work, much admired, called 
 the Fallen Garden. It suggests to the spectator the idea 
 of a situation for assembling the people for public councils. 
 The time would fail us in presenting to our readers 
 all these curious works of antiquity, so. widely scattered 
 over tlie Ohio and Mississippi valleys, which demon- 
 strate the existence of millions of human beings v,ho 
 probably flourished more than a thousand years ago — 
 wiiose numbers and social condition is so remote from 
 historical research, that even the confused annals of tra- 
 dition present not the most indistinct view of them. 
 
 n 
 
 1 f 
 
 \ 
 
48 PREUMINARV REMARKS. 
 
 NATURAL CURIOSITIKS.' 
 
 The Gates of the Rocky Mountains, so called, on the, 
 Missouri, present a great curiosity. For tlie distance of 
 more than five miles the rocks rise in perpendicular 
 height from the surface of the water nearly 1200 feet. — 
 There the waters of that great river are compressed with- 
 in the compass of 150 yards wide ; and for three miles, 
 there is but one small space, on which a man can stand, 
 between the water and the perpendicular ascent of the 
 mountain. 
 
 There are numerous caverns, of great extent and mag- 
 nitude, in the states of Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana, 
 in which large quantities of salt petre are made. In 
 Rock Castle county, Kentucky, tliere is a cave so large, 
 that a yoke of oxen and a cart can be driven in at one 
 side of a hill, half a mile through, and out at the other. 
 In the countv of Warren is anotlier, which has been ex- 
 plored for seven miles, without finding the extremity. — 
 There are tluee natural fountains of bitumen, which, it 
 is said, have proved a useful substitute for lamp oil. 
 
 In the state of Indiana, not far from Big Blue river, 
 is a spacious cave, more than two miles in extent. The 
 entrance is in the side of an elevated hill. Large quan- 
 tities of Epsom salt, and salt petre, are found in this cave.' 
 Here numerous calcareous exudations are displayed in 
 a variety of shapes, resembling artificial carvings. Bats 
 inhabiting this cave are numerous ; and it is necessary 
 for an adventurer who would explore it, to preserve his 
 torcli or candle from extinguishment by those creatures, 
 with a lantern. Within the the tract called the barrens, 
 expanding in divers directions several miles, there are 
 various other large caves ; on the bottoms of some of 
 which flow streams of water, large enough to drive millSf 
 
 If 
 
rnELlMIXAllV HEMARKS. 
 
 4i) 
 
 There is iu tlie county of Orange, in this state, a large 
 gtrcam, called Lost river; — after flowing several miles 
 on the surface, the \vhole current suddenly sinks into the 
 earth, and is never seen or heard of more. Near a creek 
 that joins the Oliio about a mile west of New«Alb iny, is 
 a spring, so strongly impregnated with sulphurated hy- 
 drogen gas, as to j)roduce combustion, by placing a torch 
 or lighted candle a little above the water. About six 
 miles northwest of Corydon, near the Big Blue river, just 
 above the base of an elevated hill, bursts from amidst 
 the rocks, a cold spring, which in the dryest seasons is 
 copious enough to drive two pair of stones and a saw, in 
 an elegant stone mill, built just by its moutli. There 
 are many other springs of this description, cold as any 
 well water, on which profitable mills are uuilt, within 
 this state. 
 
 The Grand Saline is between two forks of a small 
 branch of the Arkansaw, about 280 miles southwest of 
 Fort Osage. It is a hard, level plain, of a reddish color- 
 ed sand, of an irregular figure, being in circumfeience 
 full thirty miles. From the appearance of driftwood 
 scattered on this tract, it would seem, the whole plain 
 
 as occasionally overflowed by the surrounding streams. 
 I'his plain is entirely covered, in dry hot weather, from 
 two to six inches deep, with a crust of beautiful, clean, 
 I white salt, of a quality rather superior to the imported 
 I blown salt,wluch bears a striking resemblance to a field 
 jof new fallen snow, succeeded by rain, with a light 
 crust on tlie top. No tiling can be more picturesque 
 jon a bright sunny morning, than tliis natuial curiosity. 
 
 B 
 
mmmm 
 
 m 
 
 00 
 
 PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 ANIMALS. 
 
 Of the wild animals which range in the western forest, 
 we shall attempt to describa those only which are most 
 remai kable. Among this number may be classed the 
 
 Grizzly Bear. — He is strong as the lion, and terrible 
 as the tyger of Bengal. He does not, like most other 
 animals, flee from the face of man, but pursues him. And 
 so dreadful is his approach, that his destruction by an 
 Indian warrior is more honorable than the scalp of a 
 human enemy. He is nearly four times the size of a 
 common bear. Of one killed by Lewis and Clark, 2000 
 miles up tlie Missouri, the following dimensions arc 
 given : round the head, 3 feet 5 inches ; round the neck, 
 S feet 1 1 inches ; length, 8 feet 7| inches ; round the fore 
 ]c^ 1 foot 1 1 inches ; length of talon?, 4^ inches. Their 
 whole weight has been known to exceed 1200 lbs. He 
 masters and devours the largest buffalo. His color is 
 commonly giay, and varies through all the intennec' 
 hues, fiom black to white. The skins will sell for 4o ^i 
 50 dollars, and are much esteemed for muffs and tippets. 
 This bear is rarely seen in a lower latitude than 45°.— 
 The Indians and hunters escape his pursuit, from his 
 wanting a faculty to climb. The former complain of the 
 loss of some of their best warriors by this animal. |TEhe 
 men of Lewis and Clark often narrowly escaped him. 
 
 The Jlntelope, a species of deer, is a beautiful animal. 
 He is small, and goes in flocks of several hundreds, on 
 the Missouri, above the Platte. They are taken by the 
 Indians, by being driven into the water, and killed with 
 clubs. ': 
 
 The Mountain Sheep, so called— to which animal thejf 
 have little resemblance, except in the feet, head and horns, 
 the latter of which are enormously large, being two feet 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 51 
 
 in length, and four or five inches in diameter — are larger 
 than the deer, having a fine soft hair, colored wiiito on the 
 rump, but elsewhere of a dun hue. They are shy, clam- 
 ber over the crao;cy clift's, and graze upon the most peril- 
 ous precipices of the mountain's top. 
 
 The Buffalo recedes from the haunts of civilized man. 
 The Ohio valley formerly aboiinded with this animal.— 
 Numerous flocks were spread over the region constituting 
 the states of Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana and Illinois. Im- 
 mense herds of tliem are now to be seen north of the 
 Illinois, and on tlic extensive plains of the Missouri.— 
 These animals have often been found in flocks so nume- 
 rous, as to cover the desert in which they range further 
 than the eye could reach. It has been estimated that 
 some of those herds amount to more than 50,000 head. 
 In the dry seasons they frequent the valleys of the great 
 rivers; but they make regular migrations fr(;ia north to 
 south, when they exhibit a regular train, marching or 
 swimming across the Missouri for several days, like th« 
 
 ' procession of a great army. 
 
 Elk and Deer are very numerous, west of the Missis- 
 
 [sippi. Of the latter are two species : — the black tailed, 
 or mule, are noted for long ears, and tails almost with- 
 out hair, except at the end, where is a small tuft of a 
 
 [black color. The other kind has small horns, with tails 
 
 [about twenty inches long. 
 
 The Badger, different species of Wolves, and a Hare, 
 
 [gray in summer and white in winter, are often seen in 
 lis country. 
 The Praira Dog, found here, is a curious animal. It 
 
 [inhabits burrows ; is about one-third larger than the fox 
 squirrel ; has a thick,clumsy head, large jaws, full, large 
 fcyes, with sniall ears ; possesses a long body, short legs, 
 
0; 
 
 ;<> 
 
 pheltminary bemauks. 
 
 and a delicate small tail ; the hair shoi-t and sleek, of a 
 light gray, except on the bell v, which is white. The noise 
 it makes is not unlike that of a ground squirrel, but much 
 louder, and somewhat resembles the barking of a small 
 cur. When met from home, on its first approach it is 
 very fierce, altliough it may be easily caught, and in a 
 few days is domesticated, iind fond of being caressed.— 
 It seldom drinks ; feeds on the grass near its hole, and 
 remains torpid during the winter months. The towni, 
 (for so they are called) inhabited by this curious little 
 animal, frequently more than a mile in length, are in the 
 large prairas, 300 miles v est of the Mississippi — on the 
 slopes of hills, distant from water courses. The approach 
 of a stranger is announced by the barking of all the curs 
 in the village : they now take their stand behind the 
 small hillocks near their holes, into which they retreat 
 as tlie visitant approaches. The wolves have declared 
 war against these republics, and often make great havoc 
 among the feeble inoftensive citizens. 
 
 The Gopher is considered a nondescript. It lives in 
 the prairas, under ground. It somewhat resembles the 
 mole, though twice as large ; having at each jaw a kind 
 of bag or purse, an inch and a half long, used to convey 
 food to, or transport dirt from its hole. It throws up 
 large quantities of earth, three or four feet in height. 
 
 The •Alligator, too well known to require description, 
 is not now dreaded by tlie inhabitants, though it formerly 
 was considered ferocious and dangerous. The use of 
 their skins for saddles and shoes, has caused their num- 
 bers to be greatly diminished of late years. 
 
 The Camelion is very conmion in the southern jjarts : 
 and it is said that the fkorition and TaranUda exist 
 there, 
 
 r». 
 
PRELIMINARir REMARKS. 
 
 ii^niil 
 
 5S 
 
 Among the feathered tribes of the west is the Traira 
 ffeih a beautiful bird, which in winter frecjucnts barn 
 yards in large flocks ; is larger than the pheasant, which 
 it resembles in color, but in shape is more like the guinea 
 hen. It is easily domesticated. The flesh is dry, dark 
 colored, and not agreeable to the taste. On the Missouri 
 is a fine bird, much resembling a pheasant, but as large as 
 a turkey hen. The Ma^ie is found in great numbers 
 on the Missouri. The plumage of tlie Columbia Fart- 
 ridge is very beautiful. 
 
 Of the Fish in the western waters, it is remarkable, 
 that there are many of a distinct species from any which 
 swim in the streams of the Atlantic shores, ^fhe narrow 
 limits prescribed to our work, will not admit of a classical, 
 nor of a particuhir description of each species ; nor shall 
 we attempt to emorace in our list all the numerous tribes 
 which traverse the waters of the Mississippi and its tribu- 
 tary streams. Of those most worthy of note, the follow- 
 ing ia a I ntalogue, as named after the manner of the coun- 
 try :— cat fish, perch, pike,bas:s, buffalo, suckers, sturgeon, 
 hickory shad, flat fish, salmon, (bearing no resemblance, 
 except in form, to that fish, properly so called, in the 
 streams of the Atlantic) eels, bill fish, black fish, gars, 
 rock fish, sun fish, mullet and herrings. The fish of the 
 western rivers are inferior in quality either to the salt, 
 or fresh water fish of the east. Indeed, such as are of 
 tlie same species, are much less nutritious a; \ well fla- 
 Tored, than those in the Atlantic strejims. lliis inferi- 
 ority, perhaps, may be traced to the lower temperature 
 of the waters the latter swim in. Soutliem latitudes, by 
 causing the waters to imbibe a larger portion of heat, ren- 
 dering the fish more soft and insipid. Of all these tribes 
 
51 
 
 PRELIMIXARY REMATIKS. 
 
 of fish, the cat, which Is esteemed among those of the 
 best quality, is the most remarkable for its size, weij^king 
 from 20 to ITO pounds. The foregoing remarks are to 
 be understood as having no reference to the western 
 lakes, and the streams that empty into them. ^ 
 
 The IsDt AS Ratios s occupying the vast plains and 
 forests within tlie. reg;ion of the Mississippi, Missoiirif 
 and their respective tributary streams, above St. Louis, 
 consist of about seventy distinct ti-ibes, the whole popu- 
 lation of whicli is estimated at 102,000 souls, and their 
 number of wai-riors at 28,000. 
 
 The stature of tlicse natives, of whirli tlie Snake tribe 
 is the largest, may generally be considered a size larger 
 than the \\ hites. It is supposed the aggregate population 
 of all the.tnl>es has diminished nine-tenths witliin thirty- 
 five yeai^s, principally by the small pox. The population 
 is very thin, and disproportionate to the great extent of 
 space occuj>ied. Among all the tribes, there are not ten 
 villages, permanently settled dov/n, and inured to agri- 
 cultural liablts. The most of these savages wander in 
 tribes through th". vast plains and forests, carrying with 
 thein, by the t. d of their horses and dogs, all their pro- 
 perty ; except their corn, and a few heavy articles, which 
 they :?ccrete in secure places until their return. Whole 
 herds of buiraio, like the Hocks of th.e Tartars, are dnven 
 before t!;em, on wi)ich they feed, kindling their fires with 
 Uie ordure wiiich is dropped from these animals. 
 
 Their ruling passion is the love of war, and a thirst 
 for. tl-e bh'od of Uieir enemies, whom tliey often pursue 
 more tha?i a Uiousand miles. Their arms principally are 
 bows, spear!^, clubs, and light fubces] but in hunting the 
 bov/ is th.c main weapon. 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 55 
 
 Hie Piode of traffic between the several tribes, is sin- 
 gular. Tliere is no estimate of the thing.^ sold, nor dii- 
 putc about the price. One tribe encamps neai' the village 
 of another, and after exchanging mutual civilities, one 
 party makes a present of all the articles tliey can spare ; 
 the other in return makes a similar present, and the in- 
 tercourse is concluded by a variety of pastimes and na- 
 tional dances, in which recreation each tribe joins the 
 other with mutual harmony and friendship. They hold 
 in contempt tlie mode of traffic by civilized nations—* 
 alleging that the weighing and measuring of trifles dis- 
 plays a narrow and mean spirit. 
 
 In the opinion of Gen. Clark, who traversed that re- 
 gion with Gov. Lewis, the number of Indians on the Co- 
 lumbia, and the Multnomack, flowing into it sixty miles- 
 from the Pacific, including the extensive country through 
 which tlie various tributary streams of each of those rivers 
 pass, could not be mach less than one hundred thousand. 
 
 Tlie west hank of the Ohio, from the state of Pcnnsyl' 
 vania to the J\lississippi, it seems, is destined to be an ex- 
 tensive houndarij between the free and the i ik statefi. 
 And a great experiment is about to be made, m a confe- 
 derated republic, by the effects of slavery on the i, lis 
 and manners of republican freemen. As the natural 
 causes, connected with the welfare of the community, in 
 the states on both sides of the Ohio may be considered 
 equal, tlie preponderating influence of slavery on the 
 manners and morals of the whites, and indeed, on the 
 rational felicity of individuals, and the substantial pros- 
 perity of republican institutions, will afford a matter of 
 curious speculation for the political philosopher. It is, 
 however, beyond a doubt, that the restJt will not be uft- 
 propitious to the cause of freedom. 
 
m 
 
 PRELIHINARY REMAKKS. 
 
 li 
 
 AUhmgh little is known of the particular geography 
 of the FloridaSf their cession to the United States by the 
 Spanish government, will not be foreign to our subject. — 
 "West FlcMida, when considered alone, and disconnected 
 from the country north of it, is not of considerable value ; 
 yet, possessing all the avenues of commerce to and from 
 that large productive country, extending to the souices 
 of the Pearl, Pascagoula, Tombigbee, Alabama, Conecah, 
 Caltachoca and Flint rivers, the acquisition of this pro- 
 vince is highly important. Live oak and red cedar, tim- 
 ber of the first quality for ship building, abound on the 
 coast, which is rare on lands of the United States. The 
 harbors are numerous, and safe for coasters; that of 
 Pensacola admitting vessels of almost any burden. All 
 these considerations render that district commercially 
 important, and a most valuable acquisition to the U. S. 
 
 East Florida is less important from its extent of terri- 
 tory, and quality of soil, than from the protection its 
 situation will afford to the commerce between the Atlan- 
 tic and western states. It may be considered a key to 
 the Gulf of Mexico ; and is a most convenient position 
 from whence as well to protect our own merchantmen, ai 
 to annoy those of a belligerent enemy, concerned in the 
 trade of the West India islands. Hordes of pirates and 
 picaroons from the Bahama islands will no longer find 
 shelter in this province, to molest the lawful commerce 
 of tlie high seas; nor will foreign incendiaries here longer 
 find protection from the imbecility of a feeble adminis- 
 trationi like that of old Spain. 
 
 The cbuntry west of the Mleganies was first disco* 
 vered and traversed by the French. The settlements 
 made around and above the Gulf of St I<awrence, under 
 Ihft patronage of the king of France, opened the way for 
 
FBELUimART RBHAKKS, 
 
 «7 
 
 the discovery of that extensive range of country border- 
 ing on the waters of the Mississippi and Ohio. 
 
 In 1671 a Frenchman from Canada, named Marquette, 
 ascended the Fox river from lake Michigan, and, de- 
 scending the Ouisconsing, first discovered the Missis- 
 sippi, and explored it to the mouth of the Missouri. 
 
 La Salle was the first white man who traversed tlie 
 region from the St Lawrence to the Ohio and Mississippi, 
 and discovered the mouth of the latter, in 1680. Soon 
 after this period, a French colony was sent out, to take 
 possession of the country. But no settlements were 
 made on the watei*s of the Ohio, until the year 1735 ; 
 when the French made a permanent establishment at 
 Vincennes. The British government, resolving to en- 
 force their claim to this western region, granted 600,000 
 acres of land, on the waters of the Ohio, to a company, in 
 1750. The jealousy of the French prompted them to 
 open a communication from the fort at Presqu* Isle down 
 the Allegany to the Ohio, and in 1753 erected, at the 
 junction of the rivers Allegany and Monongahela, Fort 
 Du Quesne, — which they were compelled by the British 
 in 1758 to evacuate, who changed the name to Fort Pitt, 
 now Pittsburgh. 
 
 In 1763 the French ceded to the British all claims to 
 the territory between the AUeganies and the Mis»ssippi. 
 Tht /evolutionary war soon checked the progress of emi- 
 gration to the Ohio. The terror inspired by the hostile 
 disposition of the natives, preventetl any settlementg 
 within the limits of the state of Ohio, until 1788. In tht 
 spring season of that year, the Ohio Company, under the 
 management of Rufus Putnam, commenced a settlement, 
 consisting of emigrants from New-Elngland, at the mouth 
 •f the Muskingum, to which tbey gave the name of Mari- 
 
56 
 
 TRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 ctta. In the succeeding autumn, John Cleves Symmci?, 
 from the state ol New-Jersey, made the next settlement, 
 at North Bend, five miles above the moutli of the Great 
 Miami. About the same time Fort Washington was 
 erected at Cincinnati, and a settlement commenced at 
 the mouth of the Little Miami, called Columbia. The 
 barbarous incursions of the savages, however, opposed a 
 powerful check to emigration, until the victory of Wayne, 
 which was followed by the treaty of Greenville, in 1795. 
 Since this period, population has continued to flow from 
 the east into the western country, to an extent which 
 has exceeded the most sanguine expectations. 
 
 How largp (t range of territory ^ a free Republic^ like 
 that of the United States, can successfullij eoctend Us 
 jtirisdiction over, yet remains a problematical question ; 
 there being, in tlie history of man, no parallel to our 
 federal constitution, whence light can be obtained by the 
 sage or the statesman, that will direct his labors to an 
 experimental, demonstrative result, in his deliberations 
 on this most interesting subject. 
 
 The republics of Greece, Carthage and Rome, among 
 the ancients ; and of the Swiss Cantons, and Seven Uni- 
 ted Provinces, among the moderns; while they displayed, 
 under various impediments, the wonderful effects of the 
 accumulated energies of the people, directed by them- 
 selves, — -lacked those apportionments, checks and balan- 
 ces of power, which impart stability and duration to civil 
 institutions. 
 
 Political confederacies some of them certainly had ; 
 but they were as ropes of sand, all rendered weak by 
 their party patriotism, and their adherence to local inter- 
 ests. And these strong passions, continually opposing 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 0d 
 
 barriers to the general regulations, provided for the good 
 of the whole, -the federative government had not power 
 to extinguish, or control. Each of these systems had 
 several distinct bodies politic, with several heads and 
 several wills, without authority in the federal head to 
 coerce the citizens. Nor were those heads, that seemed 
 without means to execute their wills, in some of their 
 principal features, unlike the old confederation of the 
 United States, that possessed no other power of control- 
 ling the members of the federative body, than that of re- 
 commendation. 
 
 Nothing less than common danger could hold the sys- 
 tem together, nor effect unity of design and combined 
 exertion. The government lacked strength to enforce 
 obedience to its will, and to resist the violence offered tc 
 public authority, by punishing the licentiousness of faction. 
 The confidence of the people in their political jugglers, 
 or of tlie numerous veteran soldiery in their popular 
 military chief, rendered them stronger than the laws.—* 
 The patriotism of the people, through ignorance mista- 
 king their feelings and attachments for a knowledge of 
 their rights, committed the care of their lives and fortunes 
 to their unprincipled favorites ; or a brave army returning 
 from foreign conquests, devoted to their general, seconded 
 liis efforts in causing the people to acknowledge his right 
 of controlling them ; a surrender of privileges which they 
 had not power to forbear making, nor means of recover* 
 jng back into tlieir own possession, 
 
 Such has not been Jie diseased state of our body poli- 
 tic, as to encourage a Tarquin, a Pisistratus, a Julius 
 Cffisar, or a Bonaparte, to seize upon the liberties of the 
 country. For, though the lust of power in all ages is the 
 $arae, tlie unsuccessful attempt of Aaron Burr shows, thftt 
 
60 
 
 rRELlMlXABY REMARKS. 
 
 B Pi 
 
 the state of society in the United States affords no faci« 
 lities, either to make despots, or to destroy tJie social 
 compact of tlie nation. 
 
 An improper apportionment of power among the civil 
 functionaries, a want of due energy in the organization of 
 government, together with ignorance and bad morals in 
 the people, constitute the materials which consolidate 
 and concentrate all power in one man, thereby vesting 
 him with uncontrollable command over the lives and 
 fortunes of all the citizens : — a state of society which 
 God forbid the free born sons of America should ever 
 realize ! 
 
 The foregoing remarks we have thought proper to pre- 
 mise, by way of replying to the prediction of certain Eu- 
 1 jpcd*; politicians, that a separation of the Atlantic from 
 the western states will eventually take place. The pre- 
 diction of such an event, by those philosophers, must 
 have been grounded rather on the fate of republics, as 
 recorded in history, and the notions which have long pre- 
 vailed, that a republic could not be extended efficiently 
 over a large portion of territory,- — than from a critical 
 knowledge of tlie nature and operation of our federal 
 compact, and a comprehensive view of the state of society 
 in the United States. 
 
 But the present government of the United States pre- 
 sents a model, of which history gives us no example- 
 Here are divers independent sovereignties, with powers 
 to legislate on all minor, local and domestic concems, 
 and yet the citizens of each state, whose laws they are 
 obliged to obey, remain subject also to tlie paramount 
 laws of the national legislature. A government thus 
 constituted, affords ample security against the violence 
 of party factions, (the precursors of disunion) as each 
 
'RELIMINARY REMARKS. 
 
 «f 
 
 From considering the constitution ar d fate of any other 
 republic which has existed, no corrtci: inferences can be 
 (havvnby way of reasoning from analogy, which are ap- 
 plicable to tlie United States. It is true, the Achean 
 League among the ancient Greeks, and tlie confederaciea 
 of the Swiss Cantons, and Seven United Provinces, in 
 modern lijnes, bore a remote resemblance to our national 
 compact. In some few points there was a distant like- 
 ness ; but, in the modes of thinking among the commo» 
 people, whose minds from infancy had been strongly im- 
 bued with republican principles of independence; and 
 perfect equality — in the education of youth by common 
 schools — in the means of acquiring useful knowledge by 
 extensive commerce — by the art of printing — by the es- 
 tablishment of social libraries, accessible to all classes of 
 the community — by the circulation of pamphlets and 
 newspapers— in the great variety of climate ; whereby 
 the states most remote are most closely connected by the 
 [ties of commerce, mutually advantageous — and in the 
 cool deliberate good sense and political information, gen- 
 erally pervading all classes of the citizens, who view 
 [with disgust, and as the harbingeis of tyranny, all riotous 
 [mobs and tumultuous assemt^Ies, and attempts to sever 
 (the union ;— in tliese prominent features which distinguish 
 [our countrymen, there are nq points of comparison be- 
 tween the American and any other republic of which his- 
 tory has transmitted any notice. 
 
 The great national ami commercial privileges of the 
 )cean are open, almost exclusively, to the inhabitants of 
 the east; and an immense body of rich, wonderfully pro« 
 liictive interior lands, to the peojile of the west. The one 
 possesses the ships and the sailors; the means of trans<^ 
 
 F 
 
62 
 
 preliminahy remarks. 
 
 portation to foreign markets ; and the other, the abundant 
 produce ; each finding in a free commercial intercourse 
 (that effectually could be preserved not otherwise than 
 by living under tlie same laws) whereby irutual wants 
 can be supplied by mutual means ; all closely drawn to 
 B harmonious union by the strongest ties of consanguini- 
 ty, early friendships and mercantile connexions. What 
 demon of discord can be so potent as to create motives 
 of disunion, and to dissolve these bands asunder ? The 
 east by ploughing the ocean will protect the maritime 
 rights of the nation, without which the surplus produce 
 of the west would not be worth raising ; while the west 
 by ploughing the land, feed them j furnish raw materials 
 for clothing ; and defend the frontiers. By severing the 
 union, the physical strengtli of the whole is diminished. 
 Each section having a new enemy to contend with, the 
 more inveterate, from being an old friend ; a perpetual 
 source of hostilities is created ; a kind of social wars en- 
 sue, always the most distressing and destructive that 
 can be found in the annals of history. 
 
 We think it will not be romantic to predict that the 
 period is not far distant, when the United States and 
 the potent empire of Russia will be the two great master 
 nations of the world. If the extensive coast of Califor- 
 nia be ceded to the latter, we may, perhaps, without be- 
 ing taken for maniacs, hazard an opinion, that the peo- 
 ple of this western region will eventually be compelled 
 to defend themselves against the encroachments of that 
 gigantic power. -Should this event happen after a dis- 
 union, how bitterly would posterity curse those progeni- 
 tors who effected it ! But we will not anticipate so dis- 
 astrous an evsnt To conclude :— -a govemmsnt organ- 
 
PBELIMINARV REMARKS. 
 
 6S 
 
 izetl as is that of tlie federal compact, is a grand politi- 
 cal arch, cemented together by the love of liberty, de- 
 riving strength from its own ponderous weight ; whose 
 keystoo^ is the federal union, wliich imparts combina- 
 tion and stability to the whole political edifice ; and will, 
 we trust, like an ancient pyramid of Egypt, resist the 
 ravages of time and the united efforts of human skill 
 and ambitioD to annoy it. 
 
GEOOTULTUlCa^li STS.liTtJl\¥.!%. 
 
 Having, in our preliminary remarks, treated of sub- 
 jects of a general'^iature, we proceed to give a more com- 
 pendious geographical description of tlie western country, 
 as delineated and parcelled off into separate states and 
 territories, by tJie acts of Congress. 
 
 The artificial boundaries of counties and districts we 
 shall not attempt to delineate, as they would occupy a 
 considerable space, to the exclusion of more useful mat- 
 ter, and their location can be much better understood 
 from a well executed map, than from any description in 
 words. Nor have we thought it would be useful or in- 
 teresting to insert the peculiar features or outlines of the 
 several state constitutions, nor other civil regulations, 
 which pertain to municipal policy. Customs, mannerSi 
 and tlie peculiarities which characterize local districts, 
 or classes of people, who inhabit the west, we shall not 
 present to our readers, as the settlements here are yet wi 
 recent to have produced that assimilation of heterogeneous 
 character, which can be denominated national, or peculiar 
 to the people of any considerable portion of territory. 
 
 Having prescribed to ourselves the limits of a small 
 volume, on a subject which embraces a vast range of mul- 
 tifarious and important matter, we trust oiy* readers will 
 jaot expect (to spoak in the language of painters) more 
 
OHIO. 
 
 06 
 
 from us than such a groupe of the most interesting ima- 
 ges, as can be thrown together upon a narrow canvass^— 
 'J'hus liuiited to this contracted space, we have labored 
 ill our vocation to enrich it, will the zeal of a faithful 
 historian, and with all the minute^ persevering drudgery 
 of a geographical philosopher. 
 
 Ohio being the most easterly tract of which we propose 
 to give geographic sketches, we shall commence witli 
 tliat state, and proceed in course to make our remarks 
 on the western section of the United States. 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 Tlic state of Oliio is bounded on the north by Michi- 
 gan Territory, and lake Esic, which separate it from 
 Lpper Canada; east by Pennsylvania and the Ohio 
 river ; south also by said river, which separates it from 
 Virginia and Kentucky ; and on the west by tlie state of 
 indiana. It is situated between 38° 50" and^'v'' north 
 latitude, and between 4° 35" and 7° 47" west longitude, 
 from Washington city. It is 216 miles from east to west 
 and the same extent from north to south ; and contains 
 about 40,000 square miles, or 25,600,000 acres. 
 
 Face of the Country, Soil and Productions.^^Thc in- 
 terior and northern parts, bordering on lake Erie, are 
 generally level, in some places marshy. Nearly one- 
 third of the eastern and soutlieastern parts of the state, 
 lying contiguous to the banks of the Ohio, is exceeding 
 hilly and broken. These hills, however, are too humble 
 and free of rocks, to be called mountains ; but their num- 
 ber is r^reat, and they occupy a considerable space.— 
 There are extensive tracts of bottom lands on the Ohio, 
 Rnd its tributary streams, of wonderful feitility. On 
 
 f2 
 
60 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 each side of fhe Scioto, and of the two Miamies, are 
 found larger bodies of rich, level land, than in any other 
 part of the state. There are several extensive prairas, 
 particularly on the head waters of the Muskingum, and 
 the Scioto, and between the Scioto and the sources of 
 the two Miamies ; on which prairas no timber grows, 
 except a few clumps of trees. Of the prairas, several 
 are flat and marshy, others are dry and elevated. The 
 latter are frequently called barrens^ but are not so called 
 on account of t'leir sterility, for they are often fertile. 
 Low prairas yield large crops of coarse, wild grass, 
 from two to five feet in height ; — of which some kinds 
 arc good fodder. 
 
 It is remarkable that the liighest lands between the 
 rivers are the Mctest, and the tracts bordering on the 
 water courses are tlie Jryest. Among the trees of the 
 forest, are oak of various kinds, maple, hickory, beech, 
 poplar, sycamore, ash, walnut, buckeye, cheiTy, &c. 
 Cultivateil fruit trees of various kinds are produced. 
 VAieat, and the other small grains, and corn, flourish in 
 tliis soil — Of the latter, from 75 to 100 bushels have 
 sometimes be2n gathered^ iii one year from an acre, on 
 tliis rich bottom land. 
 
 Of the rivers within this state that flow into the Ohio, 
 the follow" g are the principal : 
 
 The Muskingum rises within the tract called tlie Con- 
 necticut Western Reserve, and flows in a serpentine, 
 southwesterly course across the counties of Stark, Tus- 
 carawas, Coshocton, Muskin^ in, Morgan, and Wash- 
 ington, into the Ohio, at Marietta, thrcugti a mouth 250 
 yards wide. It is navigable with large battcaux to Cos- 
 hocton, above 100 miles in its course, and with small 
 crafts more than 90 mile^ further, into a small lake ; 
 
OHIO. 
 
 er 
 
 from whence, by a portage of one mile, boats descend in 
 the river Cuyahoga, into lake Erie. At Zanesville, navi- 
 gation is materially obstructed by considerable falls, 
 which form valuable mill seats. This impediment is, 
 however, about being removed by a company, who arc 
 successfully prosecuting a plan of a c?\nal and lockj» 
 around the falls. To eftect this purpose, the company 
 have been vested with banking powers. The main 
 branches to thio river, are Licking, White Woman and 
 Wills" creeks, besides the principal stream, which, above 
 Coshocton, is called Tuscarawas. Tributaries of less 
 note are Wolf, Coal, Olive Green, Meigs, Salt, Jona- 
 thans, Wakitoniika, Stillwater, Sugar, Connoten, Nim- 
 mishilten, and Indian creeks. Tlie Muskingum, and 
 most of its confluent branches, are bordered by consi- 
 derable margins of rich land, notwithstanding a region 
 for nearly 80 miles in width, through which the river 
 flows, is hilly. 
 
 The IlocUiocking rises near Columbus, and meander- 
 ing in a southeastwardly course, through a hilly country, 
 more than 80 miles, unites with the Ohio at Troy,25 miles 
 below Marietta. This river is rarely exceeded (for its 
 size) in convenience for navigation : being compressed to 
 the narrow compass of about 50 yards, its waters are gen- 
 erally of a good depth. Seven miles north of Lancaster, 
 this river exhibits a romantic prospect, its waters precipi- 
 tating over a stratum )f rock, down a perpendicular 
 descent, more than 40 feet. On tlifise falls is a flour mill, 
 five stories higli. With the exception of the lower falls, 
 of seven feet descent, and a few mill dams lately erected, 
 boats may ascend this river above 70 miles Its branches 
 are Rush creek, Sunday, Monday, Margaret and Frede- 
 rick's creeks. 
 
68 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 i 
 
 The Scioto takes its rise from sources within the late 
 Indian purchase, and uniting with the Whetstone, ju^f 
 above Columbus, it joins the Ohio, by a mouth IJO yar(l> 
 wide, between Portsmouth and Alexandria. Its o-enerai 
 direction, from within a few miles of tiie source, is nearly 
 south. The Whetstone branch rises in Richland couii(> , 
 and is navigable, in high water, to Worthington, nine 
 miles. The Scioto is navi«>;abie 130 miles. Its chief 
 tributaries are Big Walnut, Lower Walnut and Salt 
 creeks, from the east ; and Paint, Deer, Darby, Mill and 
 Bokes creeks from the west. On the east bank of this 
 river, five miles above Coluuibus, are extensive quarries 
 of free stone, and marble capable of a high polish. 
 
 The Little Miami takes its rise from the southwest- 
 ernly part of Madison county, and coasting, in a soutli- 
 west direction, more than 70 miles, o^er Clark, Grcei', 
 Warren and Hamilton counties, commingles with the 
 Ohio, seven miles above Cincinnati. To this no stream 
 is e(|ual, in the state, for mill seats ; on which are already 
 nearly 40 mills, of which two are for the manufacture of 
 paper. Its cliief tributary streams are Shawnee, Obannon, 
 Turtle, Todd's Fork, Cesar's and Massie's creeks, and 
 East-Fork on the eastern side ; and Sugar and Beaver 
 creeks on the west. It is rare that boats attempt to ascend 
 this rough stream, whos^ impediments to navigation are 
 converted into so many valuable mill seats. About 100 
 miles from the mouth are falls on this river, supposed to 
 be e(|ual to 200 feet. 
 
 The main streams jlowing into the Bl^ Miami ivithin 
 the state of Ohio : — On the west is Mad river, which 
 finds its source in the north part of Logan county, across 
 which it leads a southwestern course through Cluimpaign ; 
 (l>y Urbana) parts of Gvcen and Montgomery countie5»> 
 
OHIO, 
 
 69 
 
 and after mean'Ierin!:; more than 50 miles in a rapid and 
 rippliiij; current, falls into the Miami just above Daj- 
 to!i. On the Mest is Lo7'amie-s Creek, rising in the 
 late Indian purchase, and running southwardly to Lor- 
 amie's station, thence southeastwju'dly into the Miami 
 just above Piqua. It meanders to an extent exceeding 
 SO miles and is navigable 30 miles up with batteaux. — 
 The Southwest Branch or Stillwater commences in Dark 
 county, and proceeding 50 miles southeastward ly, emp- 
 ties nearly opposite the mouth of Mad river, in the 
 county of Montgomery. There are several other less 
 conmderable streams flowing into the Miami, which our 
 limits will not permit us to notice. 
 
 The principal streams that jlow into hake Erie in the 
 state of Ohio ;— Cuyahoga river rises in the central 
 parts of Geauga county, whence it runs half its length 
 into the w estern parts of Portage county ; thence turns 
 N. W. into Cuyahoga county and enters Lake Erie at 
 Cleavelaud. It is navigable a considerable distance, and 
 is CO nviies long. 
 
 Sandusky river, rising within Richland county, runs 
 northwestwardly about 20 miles, to Upper Sandusky ; 
 thence northwardly, 50 miles, into Sandusky bay. The 
 stream is generally rapid, but navigable at a middle 
 height of water. Among its bianches arc Tycmochtee, 
 Honey and Wolf creeks. It has been Ions conjectured 
 that the waters of the Scioto might be connected with 
 the head waters of 'Sandusky by a canal, there being a 
 portage only of four miles. 
 
 The Maumee rises in the nortlieast angle of Indiana, 
 atjd flows northwestwardly into the western extremity 
 of lake Erie. Within 33 miles of the mouth, cora- 
 iiieucus slwals and lupids, which are continued, to tl^ 
 
70 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 obstruction of navigation, to within 18 miles of the lake. 
 The width of the Maumee is from 150 to 200 yards. 
 Itft principal tributary streams, are the St. Joseph and 
 the St. Mary's, wlii«h unite to form the Maumee at Fort 
 Wayne, the Great and Little Auglaize, (the former in- 
 terlocking with the head waters of the Miami and run- 
 ing north) flow into the Maumee just below Detroit. 
 
 Connecticut Reserve, or New-Connecticut, is bounded 
 on the north by lake Erie, on the east by Pennsylvania, 
 on the south by the parallel of 41** north latitude, and on 
 the westby the meridian of 5® 49" west longitude. Its 
 extent is 120 miles from east to west, and about 52iniles 
 from north to south. The whole tract consists of three 
 millions of acres ; of which, on the west end, 500,000 
 acres are called Fire Lands, having been granted by thi 
 state of Connecticut as a donation to such citizens as 
 had sustained* losses by conflagration, particularly by the 
 burning of the towns of New-London, Fairfield and Nor- 
 walk, by the British army, in the revolutionary war. — 
 The first settlers on those lands emigrated from Massa- 
 chusetts and Connecticut. The ground on which the 
 government of the latter state founded their claim, was 
 the charter of Charles II, by which, in 1662, wa2 granted 
 to the then colony of Connecticut, all lands includ id be- 
 tween the parallels of 41° and 42°, and from Providence 
 Plantations on the east to the Pacific ocean on the west, 
 with the exception of the colonies of New-York and 
 Pennsylvania. After the United States became sove- 
 reign. Congress and Connecticut compromised the inter- 
 fering claims — the former having relinquished to the lat- 
 ter their right of soil to the said tract of 3,000,000 acres ; 
 and the latter to the former all right of soil to the residue, 
 as well as clftim of juriMUctlun to the whole* 
 
OHIO. 
 
 71 
 
 Virginia J^Iilitary Lands are situated between the 
 Little Miami and the Scioto. The charter to that state 
 made by the king of England, included lands wcsi of the 
 Ohio, between lines of etjual latitude to the northern and 
 southern lines of Virginia. The above described lands, 
 the right of soil to which she reserved, wer'* granted to 
 her troops for revolutionary services — Virginia relin- 
 quishing to the United States all other lands west of the 
 Ohio, in the same latitude. Of these lands, the middle 
 and northern parts are of an excellent (|uality. 
 
 Symmes^s Patent is situated north of the Ohio, between 
 the two Miamies. For tliis tract application was made 
 to the general government by John Cleves Symmes,of 
 the state of New-Jersey, in the year 1787; but a patent 
 was not obtained from the President until 1794. The 
 grant included 311,682 acres, of which 63,100 were re- 
 reserved for public uses, as follows : — Around Fort 
 Washmgton, in Cincinnati, 15 acres; a complete town- 
 sliip, for a public seminary, to be located so as to embrace 
 an entire township nearest the mouth of Licking river ; 
 section 16 in each township, for the use of schools; sec- 
 tion 29 for religious purposes, and sections 8, 1 1 and 26 
 for the future disposal of Congress. After this deduction 
 there remained to the patentee a good title for no more 
 than 248,582 acres, for which he paid the price of two- 
 tliirds of a dollar per acre. 
 
 Within three miles of Cincinnati, lands of a good 
 quality sell from g50 to gl50 per acre ; and from glO to 
 830 between the distance of three and twelve miles. — 
 Near the chief villages of the Miami country, the pric« 
 of land is T -. SIO to g40 per acre. 
 
72 
 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 
 
 J\ 0. of Population in 
 
 
 Counties, 
 
 Tuivns. IHIO and 1&15. 
 
 Chief Towns. 
 
 Adams 
 
 9 
 
 9,434 
 
 10,410 
 
 West Union 
 
 Ashtabula 
 
 
 
 3,200 
 
 Jeft'erson 
 
 Athens 
 
 4 
 
 4,271 
 
 3,960 
 
 Atliens 
 
 Belmont 
 
 11 
 
 ll,09r 
 
 12^200 
 
 St. Clairsville 
 
 Brown 
 
 
 
 
 Ripley 
 
 Butler 
 
 9 
 
 11,150 
 
 11,890 
 
 Hamilton 
 
 Champaign 
 
 9 
 
 6,303 
 
 10,460 
 
 Urbana 
 
 Clark 
 
 
 
 
 Springfield 
 
 Clermont 
 
 8 
 
 9,965 
 
 12,240 
 
 Williamsburgh 
 
 [ Clinton 
 
 3 
 
 2,674 
 
 4,600 
 
 Wilmington 
 
 I Columbiana 
 
 ir 
 
 10,878 
 
 13,600 
 
 New-Lisbon 
 
 1 Coshocton 
 
 
 
 3,000 
 
 Coshocton 
 
 1 Cuyahoga 
 
 4 
 
 1,495 
 
 2,500 
 
 Cleveland 
 
 1 Dark 
 
 
 
 1,500 
 
 Greenville 
 
 1 Delaware 
 
 7 
 
 2,000 
 
 5,000 
 
 Fairfield 
 
 1 Fairfield 
 
 15 
 
 4,361 
 
 13,666 
 
 New-Lancaster 
 
 P Fayette 
 
 4 
 
 1,854 
 
 3,700 
 
 Washington 
 
 1 Franklin 
 
 8 
 
 3,486 
 
 6,800 
 
 Franklincon 
 
 Gallia 
 
 12 
 
 4,181 
 
 6,000 
 
 Galliopilis 
 
 Geauga 
 
 8 
 
 2,917 
 
 3,000 
 
 Chard in 
 
 Guernsey 
 
 9 
 
 3,051 
 
 4,800 
 
 Cambridge 
 
 Green 
 
 6 
 
 5,870 
 
 8,000 
 
 Xeiria 
 
 Hamilton 
 
 11 
 
 15,258 
 
 18,700 
 
 Cincinnati 
 
 Harrison 
 
 
 
 7,300 
 
 Cadiz 
 
 Highland 
 
 7 
 
 5,760 
 
 7,300 
 
 Hillsborough 
 
 1 Huron 
 
 
 . 
 
 1,500 
 
 Huron 
 
 1 Jackson 
 
 
 
 
 Jackson 
 
 1 Jeflfereun 
 
 15 
 
 17,260 
 
 15,000 
 
 Steubenville 
 
 1 ^"^^ 
 
 5 
 
 181 1 
 
 2,149 
 
 3,000 
 
 MDimtVernMi 
 
 fi.'i Rid 
 
 TQ<; fiOR 
 
 
OHIO. 
 
 78 
 
 JV*o. of Population in 
 Counties, Towns. ISIO and IS15. 
 
 Bro't.for'wd.181 165,814 193,326 
 
 liicking 7 
 
 Lon;aii 
 
 Madison 6 
 
 Medina 
 
 Miami 6 
 
 Monroe 
 
 Montgomery 7 
 
 Morgan 
 
 Muskingum 1 1 
 
 Perry 
 
 Pickaway 10 
 
 Pike 
 
 Portage 9 
 
 Preble 7 
 
 Richland 
 
 Ross 16 
 
 Scioto 9 
 
 Stark 7 
 
 Tmmbull 19 
 
 Tuscarawas 
 
 Warren 5 
 
 Washington 12 
 
 Wayne 
 
 3,852 
 
 1,603 
 
 3,941 
 
 7,722 
 
 10,036 
 
 7,124 
 
 2,995 
 3,304 
 
 15,514 
 3,399 
 2,734 
 8,671 
 3,045 
 9,925 
 5,991 
 
 6,400 
 
 2,100 
 
 5,910 
 
 1,200 
 
 13,700 
 
 11,200 
 
 9,260 
 
 6,000 
 5,509 
 3,900 
 
 18,000 
 3,870 
 6,625 
 
 10,000 
 3,880 
 
 12,000 
 3,800 
 7,100 
 
 Chief Towns. 
 
 Newark 
 
 Belville 
 
 New-London 
 
 Mecca 
 
 Troy 
 
 Woodsfield 
 
 Dayton 
 
 Zanesville 
 
 Somerset 
 
 Circleville 
 
 Piketon 
 
 Ravenna 
 
 Eaton 
 
 Mansfield 
 
 Chillicotlie 
 
 Portsmouth 
 
 Canton 
 
 Warren 
 
 New-Philadelphia 
 
 Lebanon 
 
 Marietta 
 
 Wooster , 
 
 320 230,760 324,070 
 
 The data for ascertaining the increase of population 
 fpr the five first years after the census of 1810, which 
 was 230,760, has been obtained from the number of 
 qualified voters in the state, which amounted, in 1815, 
 to 64,814, by multiplying that sum by 5, it being suppo* 
 
 G 
 
74 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 sed tliat the number of voters composed the one-fifth 
 part of the whole population. This mode of estimating 
 the increase, shows the population, in 1815, to be 324,070. 
 After the Bame mode of calculating, 1819, tlie present 
 year, would exhibit a population of about 410,000. It 
 is however believed, that the next census will show the 
 actual population to have been considerably under rated. 
 Such an accumulation of human beings, within the 
 short period of thirty-one years, congregated in a per- 
 fectly wilderness territory, without any motives created 
 from public or private bounty, other than the resources 
 of a country in a rude state of nature, is not perhaps to 
 be found in the history of man, unless we except some 
 other states in the west. 
 
 PWIXCIPAL TOWNS. 
 
 The design of our publication will not permit us to in- 
 dulge our readers with a particular description of all the 
 numerous flourishing towns within the stat^. In a gene- 
 ral view we have exhibited the names of the several 
 towns, which are the seats of justice for the respective 
 counties to which they are attached. We shall now 
 proceed to present a particular view of those towns only 
 uhich are most considerable for population, commerce 
 and manufactures. 
 
 Columbus, tlie capital of the state of Ohio, is on the 
 east side of the Scioto river, Franklin county, within 20 
 miles of the centre of the state. The site is on a beau- 
 tiful rise of ground, just below the confluence of the 
 Whetstone and Scioto. The in-lots 62| by 87^ feet 
 each, were sold at public auction in June, 11812-— being 
 then covered with the first growth of forest trees ; since 
 Tirhich period have been erected nearly SOO houses, which 
 •re occupied bj more than 1500 inhabitant!. Four or 
 
OHIO. 
 
 75 
 
 five English schools, besides a respectable seminary for 
 young ladies, are established. A post office, 10 mercantile 
 stores, a bank, two printing offices, and a market house, 
 are occupied. There is a state house, a building for the 
 public offices, and a penitentiary, all of brick. The 
 state house is constructed on an elegant model, and fin* 
 ished in a handsome style. It occupies a space of 50 
 bv 75 feet upon the ground, and is elevated two lofty 
 stories high, fronting the west. On the centre of the 
 roof is erected a neat belfry, terminating in an elegant 
 spire, which rises 106 feet from the ground. Adjoining 
 the balcony are handsome railed walks, commanding a 
 complete prospect of the town and adjacent country, 
 which affi)rds a delightful rural scenery. The public 
 offices are built on a line with the state house, on tlie 
 north, occupying on the ground, a space of 120 by QS feet, 
 and are constructed two stories high ; on the west side 
 of the public square, which is located in the centre of 
 the town, being an area of ten acres, reserved for public 
 iii»e. The penitentiary stands at the southwest corner 
 of tlie town, (being inclosed by a high stone wall) and 
 uas prepared for convicts in 1815, Columbus is 60 
 miles west of Zanesville, 114 northwest of Marietta, 28 
 from liancatiter, 45 north of Chillicothe, 90 north of 
 Portsmouth, and 115 northeastwardly from Cincinnati, 
 and is in north latitude 39° 57' and west longitude 6°. 
 
 Chillicothe is pleasantly situated on the west bank of 
 the Scioto, 45 miles by land and 70 by water, from the 
 mouth. It is surrounded by a fertile plain, containing 
 about 10,000 acres. The settlement of this town com- 
 menced in 1796 ; it now contains nearly 400 houses, 
 and 3,000 inhabitants. There are three printing offices, 
 by each of which a weekly newspaper is published, two 
 
76 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 
 banks, 50 mercantile stores, one book and one apotheca- 
 ry store, four cotton spinning factories, one driven bjr 
 water ^nd the others by horse power, a rope walk and a 
 large steam mill. In the vicinity are an oil, fullinj^, pa- 
 per, and se.sral saw, and excellent merchant flour mills. 
 The public buildings consist of Presbyterian, Seceder, 
 and Methodist meeting houses, an academy, court house, 
 jail, and a large market house, all of which (except a 
 stone court house) are built with brick. The streets cross 
 each other at right angles. The summit of a hill on the 
 west, of an abrupt ascent to the perpendicular height of 
 300 feet, presents a most delightful view of the town, 
 river and surrounding country. This town is distant 
 45 miles south from Columbus, 34 southwest from New- 
 Lancaster, TO from Zanesville, 73 n(»' M\east from Mays- 
 ville, and 93 east by north from Cincumati. 
 
 Steubenville, the seat of justice for Jefferson county, 
 stands on the bank of the Ohio. The streets intersect 
 each other at right angles. The town was commenced in 
 1798 — is surrounded by a fertile tract of land, laying 
 on both sides of the Ohio river — in 1810 contained only 
 800, but at present, (1819) more than 2,200 inhabitants; 
 bas nearly 500 houses, three churches, an elegant market 
 house, with a town house in the second story ; a woolen 
 factory, a grist mill, paper mill, and cotton lactory, all 
 driven by steam power. There are a printing office, 
 issuing a weekly newspaper, two banks, an academy, 
 27 stores, 16 public inns, and an air foundery. Distant 
 38 miles southwest from Pittsburgh, 25 northeasterly 
 from St.Clairsville,and 150 east by north from Columbus. 
 
 Zanesville is on the east branch of the Muskingum, 
 at the falls, whereon various mills are erected, and others 
 are in preparation to be established ; including several 
 
OHIO-. 
 
 77 
 
 valuable saw mills, an oil mill, nail machine, and woolen 
 factory. This town is the scat of justice for Muskin- 
 ^Miin county, and contains a neat court house, in which 
 are conveniint apartments for the public offices ; 21 
 mercantile stores, two glass factories, two printing offi- 
 ces, and 530 houses, many of which arc in a neat, elegant 
 style. The |)opulation is about 1500. Two substantial 
 bridges are extended over the river opposite the town, 
 the lowest of which is a handsome specimen of architec- 
 ture, connecting Zanesville with Putnam. The facili- 
 ties for promoting manufactories by water machinery, 
 at Zanesville, are very great. This town is 18 miles 
 from Wheeling, 61 from Marietta, 72 from Chillicothe, 
 and 58 from Columbus. 
 
 Futnam, on the west bank of the Muskingum, oppo- 
 site to Zanesville, contains several neat brick dwelling 
 houses, a convenient stone building for an academy, 
 several mercantile stores, mechanic shops and mills.-^ 
 The number of inhabitants is about 400. 
 
 Marietta, the seat of justice for Washington county, 
 is one of the first settled towns in the state. It occupies 
 a cliarming site on the bank of the Ohio, just above the 
 mouth of the Muskingum ; contains a large, elegant 
 Presbyterian meeting house, an academy, the public 
 county buildings, a printing ofllice, a bank, about 20 mer- 
 cantile stores and 90 dwelling houses. For seven years 
 prior to the embargo, ship building here was prosecuted 
 to a considerable extent. — But the commercial embarras- 
 ments which immediately succeeded, in a manner ex- 
 tinguished the mercantile enterprise of those New-Eng- 
 land emigrants for a long period. Of late, however, the 
 spirit of ship building begins to revive. In 1816, a com- 
 mercial exporting company was formed, who sent round 
 
78 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 to Boston a small ves)*el. The overflowing of tlie river, 
 >vhich occasionally happens in liigh water, to tliis town, 
 has sensibly affected its prosperity and checked its 
 growth. The uistributing post-office is kept here. The 
 distance from Washington city is SlG miles west by 
 north, 93 east by north from Chillicothe, from Cincinnati 
 186, and southwesterly from Columbus 109 miles. 
 
 mYeW'Lisbon, the seat of justice for Columbiana coun- 
 ty, is situated on the middle fork of Little Beaver, 14 
 miles from the nearest point on the Ohio. It contains 
 a handsome court house and jail, a bank, two brick meet- 
 ing houses, post office, a printing office, and a public libra- 
 ry. In 1805, were only seven dwelling houses, in Jaw. 
 1817, were ISO, of which six are licenced public houses, 
 and 9 mercantile stores, employing a capital of 65,000 
 dollars. In the vicinity is a furnace, four merchant and 
 four saw mills, a paper mill, an extensive woolen factory, 
 and another erecting, a fulling mill, and carding machine ; 
 a glass factory, an academy, and a third meeting house, 
 are among the contemplated improvements about to be 
 prosecuted in tliis flourishing town. 
 
 St. Clairsville, the seat of justice for Belniont county, 
 stands on elevated ground — the surrounding country 
 hilly, but fertile. Within the town is a court house, 
 jail, and market house ; the Friends, Methodists and 
 Presbyterians have each a meeting house ; there is also 
 a printing office, a bank, 15 stores, and about 700 inha- 
 bitants. Through this town the great road leads west- 
 wardly from Wheeling, which is 1 1 miles distant. 
 
 Oalliopolis is pleasantly situated on th« bank of the 
 Ohio, in Gallia county, of which it is the seat of justice. 
 The public buildings are a court house, jail, and an aca- 
 dtttuy. It has 7Sl dwelling houses, and 8 stores. Near 
 
OHIO. 
 
 79 
 
 the town are grape vineyards, to the extent of six acres, 
 from which considerable quantities of wine are made 
 yearly. This town was first settled by French emis;rants, 
 many of whom, before they became inured to the climate, 
 were grievously afflicted by the summer fevers, which 
 proved mortal to many of the inhabitants ; and others 
 removing from discouragement, left remaining but a 
 small portion of the French population. 
 
 CirchvUUt situated on the east bank of the Scioto, is 
 the seat of justice for Pickaway county. It was laid off 
 in 1810, in one of the ancient circular fo'tiiications, 
 from which circumstance it was named. The town plat 
 encompasses two old forts — one square, and the other 
 circular. The round fort consists of two circular, but 
 parallel walls, about 50 feet apart. There was but one 
 passage into the circular fort, which was in the east side, 
 from the square one ; the latter joining upon the outer 
 circle, had seven avenues, beside that which leads into 
 the circle, being open about 12 feet wide at each of the 
 four angles and in the centre of each side : the perpen- 
 dicular height of each wall exceeded 20 feet. The town 
 contains 9 mercantile stores, and various mechanic shops. 
 The surrounding country, to a considerable extent, in- 
 cludes the rich Pickaway plains. 
 
 JW'W-Lancaster, the county seat for Fairfield, is a ftou- 
 risiiing town, situated near the source of the Hockhock- 
 ing, on the road from Zanesville to Chillicothe, and 28 
 miles from Columbus. Within the town are 12 mercan- 
 tile stores, a handsome court house and jail, a Methodist 
 meeting house, a bank, an English and a German print- 
 ing oftice, issuing weekly papers, and a market house ; 
 there are about 150 houses, with a population of nearly 
 700 inhabitants. 
 
 \ ■— 
 
tmmrm 
 
 80 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 Urbana^ tlie county seat fo: Cliampaign, is situated on 
 the waters of Mad river. It contains a printing office, 
 court house, jail, bank, Methcdist meeting house,? mer- 
 cantile stores, 120 houses and 600 inhabitants. Dist^^nt 
 44 miles west by north from Columbus. 
 
 Xenia, the county seat of Green, situated on Shawnee 
 creek, three miles east from the Little Miami, contains a 
 court house, jail, an academy, two houses for public 
 worship, a printing office, 11 stores, and about GOO inha- 
 bitants. Distant 54 n»iles southwcstwardly from Colum- 
 bus. 
 
 Dftiftnn,i\\e seat of justice for Montgomery county, is 
 deliglitfidly situated on the eastern bank of the Great 
 Miami, just below its confluence with Mad riv^er. It 
 contains a court house, jail, an academy, a Presbyterian 
 and a Methodist meeting house, a printing office, bank, 
 15 mercantile stores, 3 apothecary shops, and more than 
 100 dwelling houses. In the vicinity several valuable 
 mill seats are artificially formed, by a canal excavated 
 around the town, so as to conduct the water from Mad 
 river into the Miami below it. This town is in the cen- 
 tre of a large bo«'y of good land. 
 
 Lebaroti, the scat of justice for Warren county, is four 
 miles west of the Little Miami, between two branches of 
 Turtle creek. It contains a court house, school house, 
 a Baptist and a Methodist meeting house, all built with 
 brick, and a stone jail. There are two market houses, 
 a bank, a printing office, and a good social library. The 
 adjacent country is excellent land. 
 
 Cincinnati is situated in the county of Hamilton, 21 
 miles above the mouth of the Great Miami, li?-2 above 
 Louisville, 4G5 below Pittsburgh by water, and 300 by 
 land, 85 north of Lexington, 93 west by south from Chil- 
 
^ 
 
 oino. 
 
 81 
 
 licothe, 115 southwest from Columbus, in 39° 0' north 
 latitude, and 7° 24' west longitude. The populatiim in 
 IHIO was 2,540; in 1815, 6,500; and in August, 18H> 
 was ascertained by artual enumeration to cc^ntain 5,302 
 males and 4,467 females, being 9,829 white inhabitants, 
 beside 205 males and 191 females of color — in the whole 
 10,225 inhabitants. The number of dwelling; houses in 
 1815 was 650, and the whole number of bitildings 1,070. 
 lu August, 1819, the buildings of all descriptions, brick, 
 stone and wood, from one lo four stories high, exceeded 
 2,000. This town was laid out nearly accorMng to the 
 plan of the city of Philadelpiiia. The situation is esteem- 
 ed one of the most pleasant on the Ohio. The upper 
 part of the town, which embraces nearly two-thirds of 
 the houses, is elevated about 50 feet higher than the bot- 
 tom, next the river ; has an extensive area (much of which 
 ig unoccupied) and commands a romantic view of the 
 high lands which surround the town. Cincinnati con- 
 tains an elegant court liouse, of brick, 62 by 56 feet on 
 tlie ground, with two lofty stories ; 3 spacious brick mar- 
 ket houses ; 4 banks, including a braiich of the U. S.bank ; 
 a Lancastrian Seminary, for the accommodation of which 
 is erected a handsome edifice, consisting of two oblong 
 uings, 80 feet deep, connected in the form of an H by a 
 building SV, by 50 feet, which contains the stair cases 
 h'ading to the second story— calculated to accommodate 
 1,100 scholars; a public library of 1,400 volumes; 12 
 places for public worship, 2 Presbyterian, 3 Methodist, 
 1 Baptist, 1 R|)iscopal, 1 Friends, 1 German Lutheran, 
 1 Roman Catholic, 1 New-Jerusalem, and 1 for people of 
 color ; 4 printing offices, two of which issue a newspaper 
 weekly, and one semi-weekly ; a steam saw mill j a steam 
 grist mill, 85 by 62 feet, of 9 t;tories, UO feet high; a 
 
82 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 woolen manufactory, a glass house, a suj;ar refinerj, t\^(» 
 hreweries, two founderies, a private and a public museum, 
 called the " Western Museum," the latter designed more 
 specially as a depository for the various specimens of 
 natural curiosilies peculiar to the western country. The 
 funds of the Lancastrian Seminary have lately been in- 
 creased by a subscription of g30,0()(), which by an act of 
 the legislature is erected into a University, where all the 
 branches of education, as in other like institutions, are 
 taught. Cincinnati, which continues to flourish, is the 
 most populous and commercial town, excepting New- 
 Orleans, west of the Allegany mountains. In every spe- 
 cies of manufacturing, i;^ is exceeded only by Pittsburgh. 
 There is perhaps no town in the world where the build- 
 ing of steam boats is conducted on so large a scale ;— 
 there having been completed here, both in wood v/ork 
 and iron machinery, fifteen steam boats within twenty 
 months, of which some exceeded 400 tons burden. The 
 adjacent country, which chiefly supplies tlie markets of 
 Cincinnati, lies between the two Miamies; and \u point 
 of health, good water, natural ferfiliiy of soil, and mild- 
 ness of climate, combines as juany means of chc.ijj 'ind 
 good living, as, perhaps, any consideraiile tract in Morth 
 America. 
 
 For the gratification oF our curious readers, we sul>- 
 join the local positions of some <»f the principal forts in 
 the northern part of the i»(ate, as they became objects of 
 en(|uiry, in remarks on military opera! ions. 
 
 Fort iJpJiancp, an important militaiy post, formeil 
 kit the junction of the Auu;lai/,e and Maumee rivers, dis- 
 tant 50 miles southwent from Fort Meigs. 
 
 Fort /^oraiaif.s, derives its name from the old station 
 of a man so called ; is on the hoad waters of tlic Great 
 
OHIO. 
 
 83 
 
 Miami, and one boundary point referred to in tl;e Green- 
 ville treaty. 
 
 Fort Mei^'ft, erected in 1813, on (he southeastern 
 bank of the Maumee, a lew miles from the mouth, at the 
 lower ranids of the river, distant southerly from Detroit, 
 70 miles. This fort sustained a sieaje ajajainst the British 
 and Indians, in April, 1813, until 5th May following, 
 when the garrison, joined by a reinforcement from Ken- 
 tucky, made a valiant sortie, and driving tlie enemy be- 
 fore them, raised the siege. On this occasion Major 
 Aiuos Strddard, an enlighted, scientific man. lost Wn 
 Ufe. 
 
 Fort Ilfcovfry, a fort established by General Wayne, 
 notorious for the disastrous defeat by the Indians, of 
 the Western Army, under the comman<l of General 
 St. Cl< i in the year 1791, is situated i23 miles north- 
 wardly o. Fort Loramies, on the boundary line of the 
 state of Ohio. 
 
 Fort GrVPenvUU, erected in the early settl<»ment of the 
 country, is within the limits of Dark county, a few miles 
 east of the western boundary of the state. There was 
 conrludeil in 1795, the celebrated Indian treaty with 
 General Wayne, after his victory over the natives.— 
 This spot and occasion is memorable for the peace and 
 security the treaty obtained for extensive frontier settle- 
 ments, whom the hostilities of the savages ha<l for voars 
 before compelled to remain in forts, and to arm them- 
 selves with weapons as they labored in the fields, or tra- 
 velled in the woods. It is lielieved that neither of tlie 
 above fortes are now occupied by garrisons. 
 
 Boundary Line, an appellation given to the southern 
 boundary of territory acquired from the Indiano by the 
 treaty of Greenville, in 1 795. It commences at the most 
 
M 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 northern point in the county of Tuscarawas, on the river 
 of that name ; thence runs a west by south course above 
 150 miles, to Fort Loramies, and from thence in a nortli- 
 westwanlly course '21 miles to Fort Recovery. 
 
 .^ Purchasp from the Indians, of lands in the north- 
 west part of the state, amountin^^ to 4,000,000 acres, was 
 made in 1818. It is bounded on the north by the Mau- 
 mee and lake Erie, by Indiana and the St. Mary on the 
 wes1,aiid on the east and south by Gen. Wayne's boun- 
 dary line, Up])er Sandusky and Dark county. This tract 
 is part rolling and part level, and in some places marshy. 
 On tile St. Mary the lands are delijrhtfully situated. A 
 considerable portion of the whole is heavily timbered, of 
 which the growth is sugar maple, black and white walnut, 
 various species of oak, black ami white mulberry, beech, 
 buckeye, box elder, elm, sassafras, crab apple, pawpaw, 
 lynn, sycamore, cotton wood, and some other kinds ;— 
 there are also divers species of wild plumbs and grapes. 
 The territory is generally supplied with good water, and 
 streams convenient for mill seats ; several streams flow 
 through the country into lake Erie. The most part of 
 the soil is deep and strong, and well adapted for grazing 
 and meadow grounds. In several parts fertile prairas 
 and woods are conveniently intermixed. By men well 
 actjuainted with the geography of the western country, 
 the above described tract is esteemed as valuable, either 
 for cultivation or commerce, as any portion of tlnj same 
 extent in the state. 
 
 Agricultural 2?rofiMcf/ons.— Indian corn, wheat, rye, 
 oats and barley are the principal. '^*^*» first grows best 
 in rich calcareous soils, which have sometimes produced 
 IIG bushels per acre; but 4.1 may be considered a fair 
 average fur all parts of the state. Wheat, of which about 
 
OHIO. 
 
 85 
 
 22 bushels per acre may be consitlcrcd an areragc crop, 
 is found to flourish generally. More than 40 bushels 
 have occasionally been gathered from an acre. The 
 following may be considered medium crops per acre : 
 rye 25, oats 35, and barley 30. 
 
 Of the Fruit Trees, most kinds grow luxuriantly. 
 Apples, pears, peaches, cherries and plumbs are common, 
 and of a good quality. But vernal frosts have often 
 blasted the fruit. An experiment has not been made on 
 the wine grape in this state^ on a large scale, except at 
 Galliopolis, where the vine from the Cape of Good Hope 
 lias succeeded well. The wine, however, is much in- 
 ferior to that made at the Cape from the same species. 
 
 Culinary Vegetables are raised in great perfection, and 
 in most places require no manure tc produce good crops. 
 The soil is generally well adapted to the tobacco plant, 
 which, however, as in all the western states, where sla- 
 very is not permitted, is but little cultivated. Consid- 
 erable quantities of cotton have, in favorable season^ 
 formerly been raised in some parts ; but tlie late vernal 
 and early autumnal frosts render the crops too precari- 
 ous to be an object of cultivation. 
 
 Of the Herbaceous Indigenous productions, trees, and 
 sjhrubber»es,ofnatural growth, divers species may be col* 
 lected from the forests, which are useful in medicine and 
 the arts ; such as the ^ctea racemosat or squaw root, 
 Virginia snake root, Indian turnip, wild iiops, red cedar, 
 Spanish oak, sassafras, spice wooti, gensang, prickly ash, 
 columbo, lobelia, and oUier various kinds of herbaceous 
 plants. 
 
 Trade and Manufactures, — Besides domestic manu- 
 factures, considerable quantities of cotton yarn, cotton 
 and wouleu cloths are made at the lai^ factories, in 
 
 H 
 
iplilllfl 
 
 86 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 some of the commercial towns. Horses, cattle, swine, 
 whiskey, and flour are the principal articles of exporta- 
 tion. By estimation, nearly 50,000 swine were driven 
 from this state over the AUeganies to market, in the 
 autumn of 1810 ; and during the late war, the army was 
 largely supplied froiii Ohio, at Detroit, and other mili- 
 tary posts, on the lakes. The total amount of real pro- 
 perty in this state, as revised by the principal board of as- 
 sessors, in 1815, was valued at 861,347,216. 
 
 Literary Institutions and Common Schools. — Ohio 
 enjoys, in common with the states of the west, the bounty 
 of the general government, |)roviding permanent funds 
 for literary institutions and common schools. Three 
 townships, six miles square, have been granted out of the 
 public lands, in this state, for seminaries of learning ; and 
 for the use of common schools, one mile square, near the 
 centre of each township, to the inhabitants of the same; 
 tliat is, the one thirty-sixth part of the whole. Of the 
 three townships, two have been appropriated by the legis- 
 lature of the state to the use of what is denominated the 
 Ohio University, to which they have granted a charter, 
 conferring the powers and privileges usually appurtenant 
 to such institutions. The seat of this institution is loca- 
 ted at Athens, in the county of Athens, on the tract ap- 
 pn)priated for its use. A spacious edifice of brick is 
 erecting, on an elevated spot, being a peninsula, formed 
 by a large bend of the llockhocking, commanding a ro- 
 mantic view of the meandcrings of the river and the sur- 
 rounding country. The town is located in the northeast 
 of the public grant, which is 6 by 12 miles in extent. 
 It is a healthy and pleasant situation, containing about 
 50 houses, including a court house and othtr county buil- 
 dings. As yet, only an academic school, kept in a small 
 
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 87 
 
 two story brick building, has been established, wliich is 
 intended, eventually, as a place of previous education 
 for the University. The neat annual revenue proceed- 
 ing from the college fuiKls, at present, is about 83,300.— 
 Two other Universities, the Miami, and Cincinnati, have 
 l)ecii also incorporated by the legislature. To the for- 
 mer is appropriated the funds arising from Oxford town- 
 >hip, in Butler county, being the remaining part of the 
 donation by Congress, for the use of public seminaries in 
 this state. This township, which lays on the western 
 boundary of the state, near the southwest angle, is cover- 
 ed with a rich, productive soil ; of which, the greater part 
 is leased for 99 years. The neat annual income is said 
 to exceed S3,500. The trustees have erected one wing 
 of a building, which, when completed, will make a spa- 
 cious, convenient edifice. The learned languages, and 
 the several branches of academical education, are here 
 taught ; but the accomodations are yet inadequate to 
 assume the dignity and administer the instruction ot an 
 University institution. The funds which endov.' Ci^icin- 
 nali University, consist wholly of private donaiiofis, for 
 wliich see Cincinnati. 
 
KENTUCKY 
 
 Is bounded north by the river Ohiov whicli separates 
 it from the states of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois ; east by 
 Virginia ; south by Virginia and Tennessee, and on the 
 west by the Mississippi. This state is situated between 
 36° 30' and 39" 10' north latitude, and between 8° and 
 15° west longitude; in length 300 miles, and from 40 
 to 180 broad, containing 42,000 square miles. 
 
 8oilf face of the country^ Sfc, — The soil is various, 
 both in quality and appearance. It is generally strong 
 and durable. Tliere are, however, considerable tracts 
 occupied by dry, rocky mountains, and sterile harrens. 
 Much of the country embracing the head waters of the 
 Great Sandy, Kentucky and Cumberland rivers, is too 
 rough and mountainous for cultivation. The soil gene- 
 rally is either red, tinged with black, or of an ash color. 
 Contiguous to the Ohio, fur the space of about 20 miles 
 wide, a large portion of the country is broken, but the 
 soil produces good tobacco and wheat, except where the 
 hills are so steep as to be mucli washed by rains. On 
 tlie margin of the Ohio are many rich bottoms, which 
 though partly inundated by the spring freshets, produce 
 exceeding large crops of Indian corn, hemp and tobacco. 
 Wheat does not succeed well on the low bottoms, the 
 fertility of inundated bottoms being generally too pow- 
 erful for that crop, unless intermixed with a considerable 
 portion of sand. 
 
KENTUCKY. 
 
 89 
 
 Tlie most valuable tract of great extent, in Kentucky, 
 lays between the hill country on the Ohio, Green river 
 anil tile eastern counties,being about 150 miles long, from 
 50 to 100 broad, and includes the counties of Mason, 
 Fleming, Montgomery, Clark, Bourbon, Fayette, Scott, 
 Harrison, Franklin, Wooilford, Mercer, Jessamine, Ma- 
 disoti, Garrard, Logan, Casey, Lincoln, Washington and 
 Green— intersected by Little Sandy, Licking, Kentucky 
 and Salt rivers. The soil >( most of this large space is 
 of an excellent quality, and the surface is free of cold, 
 wet, flat lands, or pestilential marshes ; and is gently 
 waving, presenting to the eye of the spectator delight- 
 some prospects. 
 
 The growth of forest trees is not commonly large, but 
 they are straight and tall, not exceeding more than from 
 j20 to 30 to the acre. Within three or four miies of some 
 of the principal streams the soil is hard and sterile, and 
 not well watered. The hills are shaded with oak, ches* 
 nut, hickory, gum, elm and poplar ; and the valleys with 
 beech, sugar maple, elm, poplar, black walnut and hack- 
 berry. Many trees on the low vallies are of an extra- 
 ordinary size, particularly the sycamore and poplar. 
 
 Between the Rollin's fork of Salt and Green rivers is 
 a region about forty miles square, mostly cultivated, and 
 covered by a soil suitable for tillage, meadow ground and 
 pasturage, well apportioned for the purposes of agricul- 
 ture. Of like surface and quality of soil are the lands 
 bordering on the waters of the Great and Little Barren 
 rivers ; where oak, chesnut, hickory, gum, lynn, poplar 
 and cucumber prevail. 
 
 Knobs, covered with oak, are scattered rather profusely 
 over the counties of Pulaski, Wayne, Rock Castle, Knox, 
 Cumberland, Warren, Livingston and Christian. Of this 
 
 h2 
 
90 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 tract, tlic legislature in 1800, made a grant of 400 acres 
 to each actual settler, the land being then considered of 
 little viluc. Experience has notwithstanding shown tlie 
 soil very productive in grain, and the situation advanta- 
 geous for raising stock. 
 
 The lands in tlie southwest part of the si&te, east and 
 nortli of Cumberland river, watered by Green and Barren 
 rivers, about one liundrcd miles in extent, consisting of 
 a tract called the Barrens, a few years since exhibited 
 the appearance of a beautiful praira, destitute of timber. 
 A young growth of various kinds of trees now covers 
 this champaign sjiace, which c<mtinues as fonnerly to be 
 ovcripread with grass, and a great variety of plants, 
 which during the spring and summer months are adorned 
 with beautiful flowers of every hue. The soil is fertile, 
 being a mixture of clay, loam and sand. Through tliis, 
 which is called tlie Green river country, is a chain of 
 conical hills. Here is a most stupendous cavern, called 
 Mammotli Cave. It is said to be eiglit or ten miles in 
 length, with »unnorous avenues and windings. Earth is 
 80 strongly impregnated with nitre, in various oaves of 
 Kentucli^y, as to yield, on refining, 50 per cent, of the lat- 
 ter — large (juantities of which are matiufacturcd for ex- 
 portation. In some places the earth lias been excavated 
 by the rivers so deep, as (o form IViglitful precipices and 
 gulphs ; and the rivers are coiifmed between banks of 
 solid limestone, 500 feet in perpendicular height, sur- 
 mounted with a precipitous and almost inaccessible as- 
 cent four times as high, presenting an awfully sublime 
 spectacle to the beholder. A substratum of solid lime- 
 stone, from three to fifteen feet below the surface, and in 
 many places so thick as to render the digging of wells 
 impracticable, extends over the greater part of the state. 
 
KENTUCKY. 
 
 9i 
 
 at and 
 barren 
 ting of 
 liibited 
 timber, 
 covera 
 y to be 
 plants, 
 ilorned 
 fertile, 
 gl» tl.is, 
 liuin of 
 , called 
 tiles in 
 ,aith is 
 ,ves of 
 he lat- 
 for ex- 
 avated 
 es and 
 nks of 
 lit, sur- 
 ilc as- 
 Inblime 
 lime- 
 and in 
 wells 
 state. 
 
 Marble of an excellent quality is found in abundance on 
 tlie banks of the Kentucky river. 
 
 First settleme'Jts. — Tlie tract, constituting Kentucky, 
 was formerly claimed as well by the Northern, or Six 
 Nations, as by the Cherokees. As the title could not 
 be settled by compromise, they rcsprted to hostilities to 
 decide it by combat. Hence these lands l)ecame both 
 the cause and the tlieatre of a war, terribly destructive, 
 wliicJi caused them to be called, in the language of the 
 aborij^ines, by a name which signified Uluodij Grounds.--^ 
 The province of Virginia, in 1768, at the treaties, of 
 liancaster and Stanwix, purchased the claim of the Six 
 Nations ; as did Col. H. Henderson that of the Chero- 
 kees, in 1775. The state of Virginia, although they con- 
 sidered the purchase of Henderson void, it beitig an in- 
 terference against the law of the state, quieted him by a 
 grant of twelve miles square, at t'>e mouth of Green 
 river, lite Indians, notwithstanding all their claims to 
 lands in Kemucky had been relinquished, continually 
 harassed the inhabitants, from the first settlement, which 
 was made by Col. Daniel Boone, from North Ciirolina, in 
 1775 ; he having four or five years before that time tho- 
 roughly explored the country. In 1777, the whole tern- 
 tory of Kentucky, containing then a considerable popu- 
 latJDn, was erected into a county of Virginia. At this 
 period the inhabitants, while subjected to all the devas- 
 tations and barbarities of savage warfare, resolved on the 
 bold expedient of pursuing the enemy to his towns, and 
 attacking him in his possess''^*"". And putting themselves 
 under that brave and ente prift.: g ofiicer, Gen. Clark, in 
 1778, they conquered and V/^ik possession of all the In- 
 dian and French settlements from the Ohio to the Illinois. 
 The Gen. leaving behind liim a sufficient garrison, pro- 
 
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 KENTUCKY. 
 
 ceeded without delay to Vincennes, against which post, 
 although strongly fortified and well supplied with artil- 
 lery, he brought his little army — inferior in numbers and 
 armed with rifles only — and compelled the enemy to sur- 
 render. Having established a garrison at the latter place, 
 and induced most of the Wabash and Illinois tribes to 
 abandon the British, and join the American standard — • 
 that gallant officer, returning to Kentucky, and putting 
 himself at the head of her militia, conducted two success- 
 ful expeditions against the Shawnee, Delaware and Min- 
 go tribes of Indians, defeated their combined forces in a 
 general engagement, and burnt and laid waste the most 
 of their towns, which were situated on the Miami and 
 Scioto rivers. Although by these successful enterprises 
 great protection was afforded to the country, the flames 
 of savage warfare were not extinguished by the treaty of 
 Paris in 1783 — they continued to rage on the frontiers 
 for twelve years after, until the treaty of Greenville in 
 %715. In 1782, Kentucky was formed into a District, 
 with an independent judiciary, from which there might 
 be an appeal, in certain cases, to the superior courts in 
 Virginia. But although the mother state had conducted 
 towards these new settlers with so liberal a policy, as to 
 preclude all complaint, their distance from the seat of 
 government had subjected them to serious inconvenien- 
 ces, which prompted them to ask for a separation. To 
 which proposal the state of Virginia, in 1785, readily ac- 
 quiesced. Divers causes, however, retarded the admift* 
 tion of the new state into the union until February, 1791. 
 Tlie Population of this state, by the census of 1810, 
 was returned as amounting to 406,511. Since which 
 period, the emigration from Kentucky to the various parts 
 of the western country, it is presumed, has been nearly 
 
OF THE SEVERAL COUNTIES IN 1816. 
 
 KENTUCKY. . 
 
 equal both to the nainrai • 
 
 emigration into the "1 '^7-' -«> ^e accession b^ 
 
 the resolve of the le^.lZe -^^'T^"^''' """" »» 
 to be 422,900-pr„f„ei„!'VJi! ';*'.''''"'»""* wear. 
 
 16,389. The population '!„!"'" '" ^""'•^ "f ""ly 
 
 ral counties, wKX^^^'h ""''•' '""»"g *he seve"^ 
 
 of which they respectively £ :,' ""P"'"" *" -""ties 
 
 exhibited in the followi JeSi 'i! '"*' »' J^""' «- 
 
 POPULATION 
 
 Counties, 
 
 Adair 
 
 Baner 
 
 Boone 
 
 Bracken 
 
 Bourbon 
 
 Butler 
 
 Bullit 
 
 Clark 
 
 Casejr 
 
 Campbell 
 
 Christian 
 
 Cumberland 
 Clay 
 
 Caldwell 
 
 Estle 
 
 Fayette 
 
 Franklin 
 
 Fleming 
 
 Floyd 
 
 ^Gallatin 
 
 Crreenup 
 
 Population, 
 
 r,ooo 
 
 12,000 
 4,200 
 3,800 
 20,000 
 25,000 
 5,000 
 12,300 
 
 3,roo 
 
 3,500 
 12,000 
 
 ^,000 
 2,600 
 5,000 
 2,200 
 23,000 
 8,500 
 9,000 
 3,600 
 3,800 
 2,500 
 
 ^«V Towns, 
 Columbia 
 Glasgow 
 
 Burlington 
 
 Augusta 
 
 Paris 
 
 Morgantown 
 Shepherdsville 
 Winchester 
 Liberty 
 
 Newport 
 
 Hopkinsonville 
 Burkesville 
 Manchester 
 Eddy Grove 
 
 I^exington 
 Frankfort 
 
 Flemingsburgh 
 Prestonville 
 Fort William 
 Cfreenupsburgh 
 
m 
 
 '"■"^T'^'^mmimm 
 
 ^mtmm 
 
 04 
 
 ! 
 
 KENTUCK\ 
 
 • 
 
 Counties, 
 
 Population. 
 
 Chief Towns. 
 
 Green 
 
 7,100 
 
 Greensbiirgh 
 
 Grayson 
 
 2,400 
 
 
 Garrard 
 
 9,700 
 
 . Lancaster 
 
 Henry 
 
 7,000 
 
 New Castle 
 
 Harrison 
 
 8,100 
 
 Cynthiana 
 
 Henderson 
 
 5,000 
 
 Henderson 
 
 Hardin 
 
 7,800 
 
 Elizabethtown 
 
 Hopkins 
 
 3,100 
 
 Madisonville 
 
 Jessamine 
 
 8,600 
 
 Nicholasville 
 
 Jefferson 
 
 13,800 
 
 Louisville 
 
 Knox 
 
 6,000 
 
 Barboursville 
 
 Livingston 
 
 4,000 
 
 Smithland 
 
 Lewis 
 
 2,500 
 
 Clarksville 
 
 Lincoln 
 
 9,000 
 
 Stamford 
 
 Logan 
 
 12,600 
 
 Russelville 
 
 Mason 
 
 13,000 
 
 Washington 
 
 Mercer 
 
 13,100 
 
 Danville 
 
 Madison 
 
 16,000 
 
 Richmond 
 
 Muhlenburgh 
 
 4,400 
 
 Greenville 
 
 Montgomery 
 
 13,600 
 
 Mount Sterling 
 
 Nicholas 
 
 5,000 
 
 EUisviUe 
 
 Nelson 
 
 14,600 
 
 Bairdstown 
 
 Ohio 
 
 4,000 
 
 Hartford 
 
 Pulaski 
 
 7,000 
 
 Somerset 
 
 Pendleton 
 
 . 3,200 
 
 Falmouth 
 
 Rock Castle 
 
 1,900 
 
 Mount Vernon 
 
 Scott 
 
 12,700 
 
 Georgetown 
 
 Shelby 
 
 15,000 
 
 Shelbyville 
 
 Wayne 
 
 5,600 
 
 Monticello 
 
 Washington 
 
 13.600 
 
 Springfield 
 
 Warr«n 
 
 12,200 
 
 Bowling Green 
 
 Woodford 
 
 9,900 
 
 Versailles 
 
KENTUCKY. 
 
 are the principal article, for exnTrt!'* ^"^"'"""''"P' 
 corn is extensively raised Z T^"'"—^'''^ Indian 
 
 o;ts. barley, ^cr.:zTnl:J^^:,rr'"^''""- %e. 
 
 Apples, pea«, peachej, ch^eT^ J "r"'"™'^'^- 
 most common fruit. Gr^* „ I P'"™""' »■■« <lie 
 
 «'e and ho„es are raided for ^rrkt" m""'' "^'^ ^«'- 
 combining beauty and strelTh 1 '"*' "^ "" ''>«^'-. 
 
 found in any state of fte S.' " '"*"™''' '*"""' "^ 
 
 PMNCIPAL TOWNS 
 
 •«'«ys»i&, formerly Limeston. • .,, 
 stands on the bank of ro7''"°''"*^»f Mason. 
 
 creek, about m mUel tlZ"' T '""'"^ ^^'^^"'^^ 
 f'ttsbu^h. It is aconteSrl 'J "^ ""*-«■»■" 
 '»»di«g of boats, anrrrn, '^.''''^''^"^'■•'■■the 
 yt of which ar; bum 7^^,^'"' *''''" "«» ho-ses. 
 a !»nfc, 40 stores, one "oLl " ''' I" "" ^'''gant style, 
 and tin manufactories ^T' t ^'' "»'' **» «»PPer 
 ^hops; one printing ;£ *""?''"' "*''^ "^'=''^"ic 
 
 newspaper, a post oLefeet!''' "r"'^'"'^ " -«'% 
 '"'O seminaries of le«l; „„ °T '^'■P''"'<= •^"■^''ip. 
 S'^tn.ill. a rope w Hf .? *"'' '""'^' »"« ^'^am 
 
 ^ '•"';>^»'arket\ous'Thr;Vr'''t '"'•'• -" 
 dep site in the northeast ™^ rT ^'"^ *« Principal 
 
 -e transported nj Sl^ ^h ' '"*''' '"^ «»»*' *''' 
 
 ^'HTtt5:s?e:r;f^"""'-^"^-«ayswii, 
 
 ^- P"Wic worsCtS^^cadem ""''••'■*''''''» ''«-- 
 office, six tavemrsTZ, r ■* r*""'' P^-tinS 
 
96 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 Paris, the capital of Bourbon county, is upon an emi- 
 nence on the Stony Fork of Licking river, at the mouth 
 of Huston creek, contains many well finished brick 
 houses, mercantile stores, mechanic shops, &c. two mer- 
 chant grist mills, several carding machines, two churches 
 and a printing office ; and surrounded by a fine rich 
 country. 
 
 Lexington, 22 miles east southeast from Frankfort, 
 64 southwest from Maysville, and 335 by land from Pitts- 
 burgh, is in north latitude 38° 6'. It is the most popu- 
 lous, flourishing town in the state, and the capital of Fay- 
 ette county. It is delightfully situated, and surrounded 
 by one of the most fertile and delightsome farming coun- 
 tries in the west, its site is on the north side of the Iron 
 Fork, a small creek which flows into Elkhorn river ; con- 
 tains about 1000 houses, the main street exceeding a mile 
 in length, 80 feet wide, level and well paved, with foot 
 ways 12 feet wide on each side. It contains a court 
 house, a jail, a market house, a theatre, masonic hall, 
 museum, public library, female academy, an University, 
 three banks, one of which is a branch of the U. S. bank, 
 and three printing offices, each of which publishes a 
 weekly newspaper. There are seven houses for public 
 worship ; three Presbyterian, one Episcopaliani one Bap- 
 tist, one Methodist, and one Roman Catholic. Lexing- 
 ton has flourished rapidly — ^there being, in 1797 only 
 about 50 liouses. The houses are built generally in a 
 handsome style. Near the centre is a public square, 
 surrounded by brick buildings. There are various exten- 
 sive manufacturing establishments in this town ; among 
 which are four nail factories^ two copper and tin manu- 
 Victories, a steam grist and paper mill, several large rope 
 walks, cotton ^nd woolen manufactories, distilleries, 
 
KENTUCKY. 
 
 &r 
 
 breweries, &c. In the vicinity are a number of handsome 
 country seats. 
 
 Georgetowrit the capital of Scott county, stands ou 
 Royal Spring, which empties into North Elkhorn, about a 
 mile from the town. It contains a meeting house, print- 
 inw office, post office, a rope walk, several neat houses, 
 and manufacturing establishments. 
 
 Danvillet the capital of Mercer county, is 33 miles 
 south-soutliwest from Lexington, on the southwest side 
 of Dick's river, containing more than 200 houses, six 
 merchant stores, several small factories, a rope walk, 
 a court house, post office and printing office, in which is 
 published a weekly newspaper. 
 
 Uarrodshurgh, a post town of Mercer county, is 10 
 miles northwest from Danville, on both sides Salt river, 
 and contains 80 houses, including two merchant stores, 
 a meeting house and post office. 
 
 Stamford, the chief town of Lincoln county, 10 miles 
 south-southeast from Danville, contains 112 houses, two 
 stores, a court house, a jail, post office and a rope walk. 
 There are several large plantations near, from whence 
 the springs issue, which form the sources of Green river. 
 
 Somerset^ the seat of justice for Pulaski county, is situ- 
 ated 12 miles south-southeast of Stamford, on a hill, con- 
 taining about 80 houses, eight stores, three blacksmith 
 shops, a grist mill, four taverns and a post office. Six 
 nrfles beyond Somerset, on the Monticello road, the hilly 
 oak and chesnut forest commences. The ascent from 
 the rich lands below to the summit of the knobs, is seve- 
 ral hundred ieet. 
 
 MmtieeUo, the capital of Wayne county, has an eleva- 
 ted situation on a dry ridge, half way between Cumber- 
 Ift&d river, and Tennessee boundary line, contains 60 
 
98 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 houses, a court house, a place for public worship, three 
 taverns and five stores; south, are saltpetre caves near. 
 
 Frankfort, a post town, and metropolis of Kentucky, 
 on Kentucky river, 60 miles above its confluence with 
 the Ohio, 22 west northwest from Lexington, 52 east from 
 Louisville, longitude 7° 38' west, latitude 58° 14' north. 
 This town is little inferior to Lexington, in the size and 
 number of its houses ; it contains a state house, a court 
 house, a penitentiary, a jail, market house, a state bank, 
 an academy, two houses of public worship, and three 
 printing oflices, each issuing a paper weekly. The state 
 house is 86 feet by 54, composed of rough marble. Tlie 
 court house is a large brick building. The penitentiary 
 contained, in 1817, from seventy to one hundred prison- 
 ers, the product of whose labor exceeded their expenses 
 for support and confinement. The town contains several 
 rope walks, two bagging manufactories, a tobacco ware 
 house, and powder mills. The site of the town is a 
 semicircular alluvial plain, 200 feet lower than the ground 
 in its rear. The river, which is here 100 yards wide, 
 Imving bold limestone banks, forms a handsome cuive 
 and waters the southern and western parts of the town. 
 The bottoms, on each side of the river are broad, and 
 subject to inundation. For several years after the set- 
 tlements commenced, the inhabitants were afflicted witli 
 bilious complaints ; the chief cause of this disease, 
 is considered as being removed by draining the land 
 which confined stagnant water. Several large brigs have 
 been built here and sent to New-Orleans. 
 
 Versailles^ the seat of justice for Woodford, a rich and 
 populous county, stands on a creek, which discharges 
 into Kentucky river, 13 miles southwest by south from 
 Lexington ; it contains 100 houses, mostly large, built 
 of brick and stone. 
 
KENTUCKY. 
 
 99 
 
 Shelbyville, 8tamls on Braslian's creek, li2 miles above 
 its junction witli Salt river, and 20 miles southwest from 
 Franklin. — It is the seat of justice for Shelby county, 
 and contains several stores and mechanic shops, a court 
 house, meeting house, post office, and printing office. 
 
 Cynthiana stands on the South Fork of I^icking, 34 
 miles southeast from Newport, and 26 north by east 
 from Lexington, and is the county seat of ITarnson. It 
 contains 120 houses, a court and market house, jail, and 
 an academy, endowed by the legislature with 6,000 acres 
 of land. Several merchant stores and mechanic sliops, 
 with 12 grist and saw mills, are within three miles of the 
 town. 
 
 Shippingportt is situated at the foot of the falls of the 
 Ohio, two miles below the mouth of Beargrass creek. It 
 is the landing place for goods, ascending the river for 
 Kentucky. After passing the rapids, it is usual for boats 
 descending, to put in and obtain a supply of necessaries 
 for their voyage. 
 
 Portland is just below and adj[bining Shippingport. It 
 is a flourishing place. A street 99 feet wide, having a 
 communication with Louisville, extends along the highest 
 bank above the whole length of the town. It contains 
 three ware houses, several stores, and one good tavern. 
 
 Augusta stands on the left bank of the Ohio, 22 miles 
 below Maysville, and is the capital of Bracken county. 
 It is surrounded by an extensive bottom, and affiards a 
 view of the river, has a clean gravelly beach for a landing, 
 and contains about 80 houses, several stores, a court house, 
 and meetinghouse. Bracken creek discharges into the 
 Ohio, about a half mile above the village, and drives seve- 
 ral grist mills. 
 
100 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 J\/*ewport, the county seat for Campbell, stands just 
 above the mouth of Licking, and opposite to Cincinnati. 
 It commands a delightsome variegated prospect, and is 
 the point of rendezvous for most of the military v°xpe- 
 ditions from Kentucky. In this town the public arsjinal, 
 a spacious building, containing arms and munitions of 
 war for the United States, is situated on the bank of the 
 Ohio. It contains several handsome brick houses ; a 
 banking house, court house, jail and market house, seve- 
 ral stores, a tobacco manufactory, a post office, a school 
 house, a public academy, not yet in operation, although 
 endowed by the state with 6000 acres of land, and two 
 
 veligious societies. 
 
 Covington lies just below Newport, on the opposite 
 side of Licking. Tlie great road from the interior of 
 Kentucky to the Miami and Whitewater country, passes 
 through this place. 
 
 Port William, the county seat for Gallatin, stands at 
 the mouth of the Kentucky river, and contains 60 houses, 
 several stores, mechanic shops and two inns. 
 
 J\'*ew-Castle, 18 miles southwest from Westport, is the 
 seat of justice for Henry county, and contains 80 houses, 
 principally of wood, a court house, and four stores. 
 
 Westporty in Henry county, on the bank of the Ohio, 
 48 miles below the mouth of Kentucky river, and twenty- 
 four above Louisville, contains about 50 houses, includ- 
 ing stores and mechanic shops — ^is watered by Little 
 Kentucky ; which is a commodious mill stream. The 
 surrounding lands are fertile. There is plenty of good 
 oak for ship building. On Dennon's creek, 25 miles 
 from the Ohio, is a salt lick ; lead ore is found near the 
 lick ; and about three miles up the creek is a medicinal 
 spring, much frequented in s\immer by the inhabitants. 
 
KEXTUCKV. ^Q 
 
 louisvUlc, the capital of T«ft- 
 of.be rupi.., „„ ,1,0 olio f'*-^"" ^»"»«y. »* the hea,l 
 an<l 42 wost f,.„,„ F^X ' ^'^ ^elow Cincinnati. 
 
 containing neaH, 5,000 in'hab ^ .^"'r.f "' '" ^ »'»*«'. 
 eJ on an eminence, whiclu, 70 f 'k u' '"'""'^ '"""f- 
 '"S 'o a nanw ../ain all g^bajte 
 contama two banks, one of Jh i * ""*''• " 
 
 other public buildini an.ll. ■ "^ailemy, various 
 "factories. The hrl n " '"'"= """''»"'• '"»»- 
 
 with the river. Frl„ tLT"?:' ''"^'^ ™" P-'-''^! 
 "f«.e rapids an.. fT h « .I^T.f'""' ^ ''"'' -- 
 side of the river. Alth„„„l '' "" "'" »??«■""« 
 
 Porated b, the eg^ iTflr ^^ ''- ^""Lo,- 
 K«nt„ck^ side of "th a^df ^f "'"« " ^'">»' »" «>e 
 
 P-* «.at such an underS'tm brerl?'" '"''■ 
 generally thought bv ,Ii«i>,t , *'''"^'^'' ' '^ •' 's 
 
 "on of f canal he—Mt' ""' *'''' ^''^ ^-^a- 
 reater expense tha' 1 K ,' 1"'"''^'' ^'"' « vastly 
 '-ingbee„^,r: dytXta^^^:^^^^^^^^^^^^ *' *"<= ">«- 
 -e'er the direction'of enterpri i„:'lri,r "^^''''^'-^ 
 An extensive commerce is nL . ■ . -"anagers.— 
 New-Orleans, <.„d St-Touis "'^ "" '''■'"' Nafcl>e^. 
 
 SusselviUe lays 36 miles frn,n r 
 rivers. 180 southwest of F, „lT f''™ ""'* '^"'"''erland 
 I-"-iIle. within //LLjtr' «»■ -"'-est of 
 and within 25 ™i,e, of Mu,wf ' T"" ? ""^ ^'"■"'' 
 "ver, on the north each nl uT' *"■""'''' »'" Green 
 "•oats into G..ena„at,S ?"'■'■"'"*' '"^ '-S" 
 '' 1'ouses. seve^ i,S " t '""''• ^' ^""'"'"^ 
 •"•anch of the bank of Ll r '' '^"^^ "^^ ho"'*. 
 
PIP 
 
 ■■ 
 
 MP 
 
 lOS 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 \y timber, on the soutl), nii open piaira, extending 15 
 miles wide, which expands 90 miles in length. These 
 prairas are interspersed with groves of timber ; the soil 
 is rich and well watered. Within two miles of Uussel- 
 ville, a society have planted a vineyard. Considerable 
 quantities of cotton are raised in this country, for ax- 
 portation. 
 
 Bairdstown, the capital of Nelson county, lays on the 
 east side of Buck Fork, a principal branch of Salt river, 
 35 miles south of Frankfort, in latitude Sb** 49'. It con- 
 tains more than 300 houses, including mercantile stores, 
 a stone court house, printing office, jail, church, and mar- 
 ket house. 
 
 Henderson^ is situated on the Red bank of the Ohio, 75 
 miles below Louisville, being the seat of justice for Hen- 
 derson county. The town is small, and contains a few 
 stores and inns. Tobacco is the principal staple for the 
 surrounding country, but considerable quantities of cot- 
 ton are raised. 
 
 Mountains. — The great Cflmberland chain of moun- 
 tains, reaching over the southern borders of this state, 
 projects into divers branches; and after putting out 
 into an extensive range in Tennessee, terminates by one 
 ridge in the western part of Kentucky, between the Ten- 
 nessee and Cumberland rivers. These include the only 
 mountains in the state, worthy of notice. 
 
 Rivers. — The Big Sandy rises m the Allegany moun- 
 tains, near the sources of the Clinch and Cumberland, and 
 forms part of the boundary line between Kentucky and 
 Virginia; is 200 yards wide at its mouth, branching into 
 the North-east and South Forks, 40 miles from its junc- 
 tion with tlie Ohio, and is navigable to the Audsciot* 
 Biountaius. Between the mouths of Big Sandy and Liek- 
 
 #«»'' 
 
KENTUCKY. 
 
 108 
 
 ing, the following creeks and rivulets* flow into the Ohio, 
 (being from 18to 72 miles long, ami from 10to50yanl« 
 wide at their mouths,) viz. Little Sandy, below Big San<ly 
 22 miles ; Tiber's creek, below 21 ; Sycamore creek, 18 ; 
 Crooked creek, 13 ; Cahbin creek, Brooks's creek, Lime- 
 stone creek and Bracken creek. These streams are mostly 
 navigable for small boats and canoes. 
 
 Licking river has its source in the southeast corner of 
 the state, near the head ')f the Cumberland — pursues a 
 northwestern course, and meets the Ohio at Newport, 
 opposite Cincinnati. The extent of its meandeu.js is 
 200 miles, of which 70 miles from the mouth is navigiale. 
 
 The Kentucky finds its source in the mountains, at +he 
 southeast angle of the state, where it interlocks witlv tue 
 head waters oi Licking and Cumberland ; and persuing 
 a north ./est course, it mingles with the Ohio at Port 
 William, 77 miles above Louisville. It is navigable for 
 more than 150 miles from its mouth, which is 150 yards 
 wide. Tlie current is rapid, and the banks high and 
 rocky, exhibiting in some parts, a grand and romantic 
 scenery. 
 
 Dick's, a tributary to the Kentucky, below the mouth 
 of Hickman, takes its rise in Lincoln county ; is 52 
 miles long, and 60 yards wide at the mouth. Its current 
 is rapid, and its waters are walled in by precipices 300 
 feet high, composed of solid limestone and white marble. 
 
 Elkhorn, another tributary, flows into the Kentucky 
 eight miles below Frankfort ; is 50 yards wide at the 
 mouth, and is formed from two forks : the one rising near 
 Lexington, and the other near Georgetown. These 
 branches water Scott and Fayette counties ; their cur- 
 rents are rapid, precipitous, and capable of driving miUa 
 and mill machinery. 
 
 ^»"i 
 
im 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 Eagle creek proceeds from Harrison county, and meets 
 the Kentucky fifteen miles from the mou*li of the latte»'. 
 
 Salt river, in three branches, from Mercer county, 
 through a mouth 150 yards wide, meets the Ohio twenty 
 miles below Louisville. It traverses the counties of 
 Jefferson, Greenup, Washington and Mercer, and is na- 
 vigable 150 miles. 
 
 Green river commences in Lincoln county, and pur- 
 suing a western course, flows into the Ohio 200 miles 
 below Louisville, and 50 above the Cumberland. At its 
 mouth is 50 yards wide, and navigable 200 miles — flows 
 northeast, receiving in its progress many tributary streams, 
 of which the principal is Great Barren river, that is fed 
 through several forks, which head near the Cumberland 
 and Tennessee. Little Ban^en rises in BuUit county, 
 and joins the right branch of Green river, 50 miles below 
 the Great Barren. Bough river flows fiom the south- 
 east, and joins Green river 50 miles from its confluence 
 with the Ohio. Panther'^s creek comes in from the south- 
 east, 2C miles from the Ohio. 
 
 The Trade-water rises in the county of Cliristian, at 
 the bend of the Cumberland ; is 80 miles long ; pursuing 
 a northwest course, meets the Ohio through a mouth 70 
 yards wide, 200 miles below the mouth of Green river; 
 being nearly an equal distjince from the mouth of Green 
 and Cumberland rivers. 
 
 The Cumberland, which traverses a long way in a cir- 
 cuitous route, within the limits of Kentucky, as also the 
 Ohio and Tennessee, have already been described in our 
 preliminary remarks. 
 
 Bed river takes its rise in Cumberland county, and 
 after flowing sou^west 50 miles, by a mouth 80 yards 
 wide, joins the Cumberland. 
 
KENTUCKY. 
 
 105 
 
 The ICaskinampas river waters the western end of the 
 jitate, proceeds from near the Tennessee, and pursuing a 
 westeni course, enters the Mississippi about half way 
 between the mouth of the Ohio and New-Madrid. 
 
 Minerals. — Iron ia abundant in several parts of this 
 state, though not of the best quality, and is principally 
 used to form hollow ware. Of marble there are immense 
 quarries, beautifully variegated, and capable of a high 
 polish, on the banks of the Kentucky. A mineral ofpe^ 
 culiar qualities has been discovered, that is semi-trans- 
 parent, and always in a rhomboidal form, which possesses 
 the double refracting power of the Iceland crystal. The 
 mineral waters of this state will be found under that 
 head, in our preliminary remarks. 
 
 The productions of Kentucky are similar to those of 
 Ohio ; except that the southern part, from its position, is 
 better adapted to the cultivation of cotton. It is how- 
 ever said that Enj^'ish grasses, on account of a larger pro- 
 portion of calcareous ingredients in its soil, do not suc- 
 ceed so well. Hemp, wheat and tobacco have been con- 
 sidered the principal staples. The latter article is raised 
 iu great abundance. 
 
 In Manufactures^ Kentucky has made very considera- 
 ble progress. In 1810, by a return made to the office of 
 the Secretary of State, it appeared that the amount of 
 manufactured ai tides exceeded 85,000,000. Of which 
 aggregate the loom produced 82,657,084 ; the salt works 
 8393,400 ; maple sugar 8308,932 — the rem ' .. Jer con- 
 sisted of the products of tanneries, distilleries, paper 
 mills, and divert other species of manufactures. 
 
 Among the L'terary Institutions of this state, the prin- 
 cipal is the Transylvania University, at Lexington, which 
 was incorporated several yeais ago, and which has lately 
 
106 
 
 KENTUCKY. 
 
 been reorganised and placed on a respectable foundation* 
 There are two college edifices, of brick— one erected 
 some time since ; the other an elegant edifice, built in 
 1818, upon so extended a scale as to accommodate one 
 hundred students. The former library contained nearly 
 2000 volumes, to wliich of late has been made a large 
 addition. Here is also a complete philosophical appara- 
 tus. The extent of the funds with which this institution 
 is endowed, we have not been able to ascertain ; it is 
 however understood that they are ample,. consisting of 
 bank stock and real estate. There are tliirteen trustees, 
 all elected triennially by the legislature. The executive 
 government is vested in a president, a professor of lan- 
 guages, one of mathematics and natural philosophy, one 
 of chemistry and mineralogy, two tutors, a professor of 
 law, and four professors in the medical department. The 
 requisitions for admission and the course of study are to 
 be the same as at the University in Cambridge, Mass. 
 and it is intended to make the standard of education as 
 high as in any of the Atlantic colleges. 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 Indiana was admitted into the federal union, as a 
 state, in the year 1816. It is bounded by the state of 
 Illinois on the west, by a line on the Wabash from its 
 mouth to 40 miles above Vincennes, and thence on a 
 meridian line so far north as to include the southern ex- 
 tremity of lake Michigan 10 miles in depth, by a boun- 
 dary line on the nortli drawn due east : east by the state 
 of Ohio, by a meridian line, running from t'ae mouth of 
 the Big Miami : on the south by the Ohio river. Length 
 from north to south, 284 miles; breadth from east to 
 west 155 ; contains about 37,000 square miles; lays be- 
 tween 37° 45' and 41° 52' north latitude, and 7° 40' and 
 10° west longitude. 
 
 Face of the Country^ Soil, Sfc, — Tliere are in Indiana 
 no considerable heights of land, that (strictly speaking) 
 can properly be denominated mountairs. The river hills 
 from 100 to 200 feet high, diverging from 30 to 600 rods 
 from the Ohio, according to the width of the alluvial 
 margin, commence within two miles east of the Great 
 Miami, and extend in the direction of the river Ohio, 
 within about twelve miles above the Falls, where they 
 gradually merge in a valley, which extends about 25 
 miles below ; where the same range of lulls reappears, 
 and extends in the course of the river, as it runs, from 
 60 to 70 miles below, where tlie hills disappear, and i 
 
108 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 region sometimes level, and sometimes waving, com- 
 mences, which is expanded southwestwardly to the Wa- 
 bash, and northwestwardly and northeastwardly, with 
 rare exceptions, to the great western lakes. 
 
 On the borders of most of the streams are strips of 
 rich bottom, and there are also praira lands, from one to 
 five miles wide. Between the Wabash and lake Michi- 
 gan, the country is generally level, abounding alternately 
 with prairas and woodland, and occasionally large marsh- 
 es, and several small lakes. Some of the prairas be- 
 tween fort Harrison and fort Meigs, are covered witli 
 red top and fowl meadow grasses. 
 
 Between the Ohio and White river, a range of knobs 
 forms the high table lands that divide the head waters 
 of some of the tributaries to the Ohio from those of the 
 White river, commencing about 25 miles north from the 
 Ohio, and 20 miles eastwardly from Salem, and pursuing 
 a course south westwardly, reaches that river 13 or 13 
 miles below the Falls, where they terminate. Most of 
 this region is thickly covered with large forest trees. 
 
 North of the Wabash, between Tippecanoe and Ouita- 
 non, a French settlement, the banks of the streams are 
 higii, abrupt and broken, and the lands, except the prai- 
 ras, covered with timber. Between the Plein and the 
 Theakiki, (which are the head branches of the Illinois) 
 the country is flat and wet, interspersed with prairas of 
 an inferior soil. In this region, the swamps seem to fur- 
 nish the head streams of rivers, and the lands appear to 
 b3 too loT*' and wet foi- cultivation. 
 
 There are two kinds of prairas, the river and the up' 
 land : the former are destitute of timber, and are said to 
 exhibit vestiges of former cultivation; the latter are 
 from 30 to 100 feet more elevated, and are more nume- 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 109 
 
 lOQ 
 rous and extensive. Some of ih.r^ 
 
 a common field, oti cs Zl^Vl ""' ^^^^^ *'^^« 
 can reach. ThL ar' «t n ^^ farther than the eye 
 
 ;^-psof.ees,aLTo:rtt7:r 
 
 InspnngaBd summer, thev a.P .„ ^> ^'''"' '"'•''*'^- 
 S.owth of grass and CTnt fl„ 'f ''"'" " '•"""■'""* 
 f-t high. The soil o le" 1 "' '?" "^"^ *» ^'s'" 
 Me as the best bottoms rr'"". " '"^'™ "' ''««P ""d 
 are remarkably riclTZ , '" P.''*"-''^ »«»■• tlie Wabash 
 
 found 22 feet deen bpH,l.^ Jegefable soil has been 
 depth is from t^o'to fivetet "' ""' ' """■ -"">»» 
 
 Among the lands purchased nf fi t .. 
 a<e 8,500.000 acres within rtf /" ^'"'"'"' '» '818, 
 ■'- purchase is bounld „„ t;*"'!:?'""'""'- This 
 •8 miles above fort Harriso" It7 w u^ " ""« ''™^™ 
 Indiap boundary-thence a,:l "'M^'"'^^''' "n *'>« old 
 ^WaSh to the forks W, 1 !,•"" *''%*''^' ^'''^ "^ «"> 
 fort Wayne. "*" '"<"■' "»«• f'om flience to 
 
 '^S^z^::^r "-? -■ '^^'^" ■•' -. 
 
 -"tribute to i«cree';:Xf <■»'•-> -"g-atl, 
 
 P-Jperity of tl,e state of iK ""' ''""'"'"' '^'^ 
 
 The quality of the soil r ,' 
 *i" bear a comparis„rl' "" '"'«"' " *™^' '» « Wy 
 '•^d States. Inde^ ";,*" 7' P''^'"'P'' '^'"'m the U^. 
 
 -". -.0 havelS 'ZZ'Z T-"'1;'' ""^'"^^ 
 P«'nt of rural scenery !. ' " *" directions, in 
 
 fertility 01 soil and seTirity trh"' u,""' "'' P''^ ""'-. 
 »f *he western country tI '' ''""" *» ""^ P"'' 
 
 -ftabeautifulgrowth^'ofltf^^ "? '^ ^"^'•'='' 
 ^ommon to bottoms and „1 . f '' ""* ""''''« «'ose 
 ^''tateof Ohio ; exceot «? / '^' ""' 1"'""^ in 
 • '*P* •"" '""'"dmble portions of C 
 
HO 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 prairas, which in the centre and to tli^ northwest in va- 
 rious places, are spread out extensively. The surface in 
 this part of the tract is delightfully variegated by gentle 
 undulations. 
 
 At the northeast, although the lands will make valua- 
 ble plantations, the surface over a considerable part, ap- 
 proaches too near, perhaps, a perfect champaign to em- 
 brace all the conveniences of tlie best agricultural situa- 
 tions. The soil is, however, strong and durable, well 
 adapted to wheat and meadow grasses. The prevailing 
 growth here is beech, although there be considerable sugar 
 maple and other forest trees that indicate a rich soil. 
 The infrequency of running streams, and the level sur- 
 face in the northeast, cause a scarcity of good mill seats. 
 
 The lands bordering on the waters of the White river 
 and its tributary streams are considered among those of 
 the best quality, excepting a strip of about 30 miles 
 by 15, laying near the west branch, which being low, 
 marshy, and occasionally overflowed, is unfavorable to 
 health* Much of this tract, not excepted, is delightfully 
 situated, and the surface consisting of gentle undula- 
 tions, supplied with good water, and variegated with nu- 
 merous, small, rich, dry prairas. 
 
 An extensive tract, bordering on the waters of tlic 
 Tippacanoe and the two Vermillion and Eel rivers, are 
 lands of superior quality, and not excelled for fertility 
 by any in the state. The northern position of these 
 lands, will afford a climate favorable to the health of 
 emigrants not habituated to southern latitudes. 
 
 The productions of Indiana in coi n, wheat, rye, barley, 
 oats, beans, peas, Irish, sweet potatoes, and garden vege- 
 tables of every description, are abundant. In some 
 parts of the statCi where the soil consists of a saiul; 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 Ill 
 
 loam, certain species of the wine grape, particularly the 
 grape of Gooil Hope, and cotton, have flourished. It is 
 presumed that upland rice would succeed well in this 
 soil, as it has been known to flourish within the state of 
 Kentucky, in the same latitude. Farming is conducted 
 on a large scale in the Wabash country for several miles 
 around Vincenues and fort Harrison, where the 8oll is 
 exceedingly productive. Within this region, single farm-- 
 ers have raised, in one year, from 4,000 to 10,000 bushels 
 of com, and various kinds of small grain. Th» soil in 
 these places is of a deep, rich, dark gray, sandy loam, 
 which is ploughed easily, and resists the effects of 
 drought and drenching rains. It has proved so inex- 
 haustible by cropping without manure, tliat the same 
 corn fields have been planted for more than half a century 
 in constant succession without a perceivable diminution 
 of crops. 
 
 The population of Indiana has, perhaps, experienced 
 a more ra{Hd increase than any state in the union. At 
 the census in 1810, it contained only 24,520 inhabitants, 
 exclusive of Indians. In the tenitorial census of 1815, 
 the number returned to Congress, as a prerequisite to 
 the formation of a state, was 67,784. At this period, 
 August 1819, it is confidently believed, that 165,000 
 would not be an exa^erated estimate. Since the census 
 of 1815, the number of countitj have more than'dtMibled, 
 although until the late purchase in 1818, nearly >two* 
 thirds of the extent of territory was in the possession of 
 the Indians. 
 
 The several counties to which the number of inhabit- 
 ants is not annexed, have been formed since 1815 — the 
 other coantieB show, in the second column, the number of 
 inhabitants they respectively contained, at that time— 
 
mmm 
 
 r2 
 
 mDIANA. 
 
 the third column presents the names of the towns in 
 which are the seats of justice for the counties to whicli 
 they are annexed. 
 
 Counties. 
 
 Vopulation, 
 
 Chief Towns. 
 
 Clark 
 
 7,000 
 
 Charleston 
 
 Crawford 
 
 
 Mount Sterling 
 
 Dearborn 
 
 4»426 
 
 liawrenceburgh 
 
 Davie s 
 
 
 Washington 
 
 Dubois 
 
 
 
 Franklin 
 
 r,970 
 
 Brookvillc 
 
 Fayettft 
 
 
 Connersville 
 
 Floyd 
 
 
 New-Albany 
 
 Gibson 
 
 5,330 
 
 Princeton 
 
 Harrison 
 
 6,769 
 
 Corydon 
 
 Jackson 
 
 
 Brownstown 
 
 j Jefferson 
 
 4,093 
 
 Madison 
 
 \ Jennings 
 
 
 Vernon 
 
 i Knox 
 
 6,800 
 
 Vincennes 
 
 1 La^ V 1 ence 
 
 
 Palestine 
 
 1 MouroG 
 
 
 
 1 Orange 
 
 
 Paoli 
 
 1 Perr} 
 
 3,000 
 
 Franklin 
 
 Posey 
 
 3,00« 
 
 Harmony 
 
 Randolph 
 
 
 *■ 
 
 Ripley 
 
 
 Versailles 
 
 1 Spencer 
 
 
 Rockport 
 
 wr Sullivan 
 fc| Switzerland 
 
 
 Merom 
 
 5,500 
 
 Vevay 
 
 1 Vandeburgh 
 
 
 Evansville 
 
 1 Warwick 
 
 6,606 
 
 Boonsborough 
 
 1 Washington 
 
 3,000 
 
 Salem 
 
 fc Wayne 
 
 6.290 
 
 Centreville 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 113 
 
 Of the chief towns in this state, the progress of improve- 
 ments and population, render an adequate description 
 very difficult. We will, however, endeavour to give 
 such sketches as will present to enquirers a tolerable 
 view of the towns most considerable, and of the coun- 
 try surrounding them. 
 
 Salisbury, formerly the county seat of Wayne, situ- 
 ated on ahead branch of Whitewater river, is but two 
 miles eastwardly of Centreville, the latter place consist- 
 ing of a few cabbins in the woods, where the courts are 
 nowholden. Concerning the seat of justice for this coun- 
 ty, a great interest has been excited among the citizens ; 
 and on application to the legislature, commissioner's have 
 been appointed to designate the spot for a permanent 
 establishment. Two expensive brick court houses, have 
 already been erected, one at Salisbury, and the other at 
 Centreville, not more than two miles apart. The land 
 surrounding Salisbury and Centreville, and indeed, the 
 whole county of Wayne, is one of the most valuable 
 tracts for cultivation in the state. The surface in some 
 parts is too flat and wet, but mostly gently waving, the 
 soil strong and durable, covered with stately forest trees, 
 finely watered by the head branches of the Whitewater, 
 which furnishes divers valuable mill seats. Many of the 
 settlers are from North Carolina, whose improvements 
 have formed lai^e and valuable plantations. 
 
 Brookville, the county seat of Franklin, stands upon 
 a narrow elevated plain, in the forks of Whitewater. A 
 considerable part of the town, however, is built on the 
 margin of the East Fork, 65 or 70 feet lower than the 
 upper bottom. The situation is pleasant and romantic, 
 exhibiting the variegated prospect of the meanderings of 
 the streams, and of hills topped with forest treed on either 
 
 Kg 
 
114 
 
 IKDIANA. 
 
 i 
 
 side, cultivated farms and water mills. This town, 
 which did not contain 20 dwelling houses at the close 
 of the late war, now, (1819) exceeds the number of one 
 hundred, besides several stores, mechanic shops, &c. 
 Within the limits of the town are two grist and two saw 
 mills, three fulling mills, and three carding machines. 
 There arc a neat brick court house, a jail, and a market 
 house. Distance from Cincinnati, north west, 42 miles. 
 Tlie county of Franklin contains excellent bottom lands 
 on the' margin of the two Whitewater forks ; and the 
 uplands arc generally covered with a good soil, and well 
 timbered. 
 
 Laicrenceburgh, the seat of justice for tlie county of 
 Dearborn, stands on the west bank of the Ohio, 23 miles 
 from Cincinnati, and two below the mouth of the Great 
 Miami. The situation of this town is very pleasant, being 
 on a spacious plain, which commands a view of the river, 
 surrounded by extensive rich bottom lands. The spot 
 occupied by the toWn, is the nearest convenient site on 
 the Ohio west of the Miami. But it is subject to inun- 
 dation by extraordinary freshets ; the largest of which 
 has covered Main, the highest street, four feet deep. But 
 this street is now raised above the highest freshets, and 
 the principal buildings are elevated above the street. On 
 an average, the town is flooded not more than once in 
 three or four years. — But as the inhabitants are familiar 
 with the occurrence, they are prepai*ed ; they anchor 
 their fencBs with little trouble, so as to secure them from 
 floating ; their upper rooms ~eceive the contents of their 
 cellars, their cattle and hogs are driven to high giounds ; 
 thus prepared, they await the overflowing and the reces- 
 sion of the waters, as unconcerned as did the family of 
 Ncah the grea,t deluge. The highest floods rarely con- 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 110 
 
 tinuc more than eight or ten days. As no stagnant pools 
 remain, the flooding of the town is followed by no injury 
 to health, and by much less inconvenience to the inhabi- 
 tants, than can be imagined by strangers. The preced- 
 ing remarks apply only to Old Lawrenceburgh ; for 
 New-La wrenc dbui^h, so called, within the limits of the 
 same town, about 100 rods from the old settlement, is 
 never overflowed. The latter is a handsome site, bound- 
 ed by Tanner's creek on the west, which joins the Ohio 
 a mile below, and. is navigable to the new town. It coh- 
 tains a number of large, elegant houses, built with brick, 
 a large grist and saw mill, driven by four oxen, on an 
 inclined plane wheel, a spacious cotton factory, driven by 
 the same power, besides mechanic shops and other build- 
 ings, all erected within two years. This site, by itself, 
 which is to be connected with the old town by a high 
 street above the flooding waters, is spacious enough for 
 a pretty large town. Lawrenceburgh, from its first set- 
 tlement, till within two or three of the last years, has 
 progressed very slowly. Nothing could have so long 
 retarded the prosperity of this delightful situation, which 
 nature seemed to have designed for a centre of much 
 business, but the dreadful apprehensions which emigrants 
 entertain of the evils of overflowing waters. It is the 
 nearest point to the river for an immense tract of inte- 
 rior good land, and yet unsettled, in the most convenient 
 outlet for the produce of the great Whitewater countiy, 
 and is the natural place of deposite for staple commodi- 
 ties which float down the Big Miami. The evils con- 
 templated fi om occasional overflowing, the old settlers 
 have founa more imaginary "^han real. 
 
 There is no place on the banks of the (ttiio, perhaps, 
 where better water is found or mwe perfect health en- 
 
116 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 joyed, than at Lawrenceburgh. Nor is there any town 
 in ^he state, we presume, which has flourished more 
 within two or three of the last years ; many neat brick 
 houses and stores have lately been erected, both in the 
 old and new town ; some of which are nearly as spaci- 
 ous and elegant as any in the western country. Mer- 
 chants and mechanics of various descriptions have met 
 with encouragement. The town has, within 30 months, 
 doubled its population, which, at this time (August 1819) 
 may be estimated at about 700. Beside the Big Miami 
 and Whitewater, seven considerable streams traverse 
 the county of Dearborn, all eniptying into the Ohio, with- 
 in the county, which borders on tlmt river not exceeding 
 17 miles. The most of these streams, including the 
 Ohio, have spacious margins of bottom lands. The face 
 of the country bordering on the Ohio, however, for some 
 miles in width, has spread over it many abrupt hills, 
 which as well as the vallies, are covered by a deep rich 
 soil. But as we recede some distance back from the 
 creeks, the surface becomes sufficiently level. In the 
 northern part of the county are large tracts, of which 
 the prevailing growth is oak of divers species. These 
 lands, though the appearance be rather forbidding to a 
 stranger, prove very productive in wheat, grass and most 
 other crops, common to the country. 
 
 There appears a considerable propensity in the people 
 of Dearborn county to the formation of towns, there be- 
 ing 12 or 13 already laid off. Oui limits will permit us 
 to notice some of the principal only. 
 
 Harrison is a pleasant little village on the Whitewa* 
 tcr, about 14 miles northeast of Lawrenceburgh ; the 
 main street being the boundary line between the states 
 Indiana and Ohio. It would seem from the numerous 
 
 vei 
 
 ughry 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 117 
 
 tumuli and places of ancient Hepulture, that this plain, 
 centuries ago, was covered by the habitations of men.— 
 The town which contains a considerable number of neat 
 dwelling houses, is surrounded by a tract of excellent 
 land, on which are many handsome plantations. 
 
 Ilardensbiirgh, on the west bank of the Great Miami, 
 two miles from its mouth, occupies a handsome site, and 
 contains about 50 houses, seven or eight of which art 
 decent brick buildings. 
 
 Aurora, at the mouth of Hogan creek, on the west 
 bank of that stream, four miles below Lawrenceburgh, 
 and nine above Rising Sun, was laid oft" by 20 proprietors 
 in 1818. About 40 frames, for dwelling houses and 
 stores, were erected on donation lots, before any of th« 
 others were oifered for sale. This town has a fine pros- 
 pect of the meanderings of the creek and the river ; and 
 is accommodated witli as good a harbor for boats, as any 
 place between Pittsburgh and the Mississippi ; a strong 
 eddy from the Ohio putting into the creek, which exceeds 
 ! 5 feet in depth at all stages of water. 
 
 Rising SuTit 13 miles below Lawrenceburgh, forms one 
 of the most delightful situations on the banks of the Ohio. 
 It is surrounded by a spacious tract of rich bottom, and 
 occupies a gentle, gradual descent, that commands a com- 
 plete prospect of the river ; between which and the front 
 row of houses, is a broad street more than 150 rods in 
 length. This town contains more than 100 houses, and 
 affords employment for several traders, taverns, and a 
 number of industrious mechanics. 
 
 Wilmington, a small village, stands on a high hill, 
 about equidistant from the East and West Forks of 
 Hogan. 
 
 Hanover is a little village two miles abore the mouth 
 of Laughry ; the houses are mostly cabbins. 
 
118 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 Hartford, about five or six miles from the Ohio, is a 
 flourishing village on Laughry creek, containing 50 or 60 
 hoi'ses. 
 
 Vevay, the county seat of Switzerland, situated eight 
 mrles above the mouth of Kentucky river, on the Ohio, 
 45 below Cincinnati, is a pleasant flourishing town, con- 
 taining 190 houses, a decent brick court house, a jail, 
 printing office, a large distillery, several taverns and me« 
 chanic shops. A branch of the bank of Indiana is estab- 
 lished here. It was commenced in 1814, within the tract 
 granted by the United States, to about 30 Swiss families 
 in 1804; who began their settlements, near the place 
 where the town now stands, in the following year. This 
 land was obtained from government on an extended 
 credit, for the purpose of encouraging the cultivation of 
 the grape vine ; in which employment the Swiss have 
 been more successful, it is presumed, than any attempt 
 on a large scale, within the United States. In 1815, 
 about 100 hogsheads of wine were produced from all th« 
 vineyards ; some of which belonging to individuals, have 
 lingly grown grapes latterly, sufficient to make lOOO 
 gallons of wine. The Madeira and the Cape of Good 
 Hope have flourished better than any other species which 
 have been tried. The vines of each grow well, but tht 
 Cape being much less liable to be injured by early frost, 
 is the least precarious and the most productive. This 
 wine is wholesome, and not unpalatable. It is preserved 
 through the summer months without distilled spirits, and 
 grows b«»tter by age. 
 
 Madison, on the second bottom of the bank of the Ohio, 
 is the county seat of Jeflferson. This is one of the most 
 beautiful and flourishing towns in the state ; was com- 
 menced 1811 ; in February, 1819, contained 8S1 inhabi- 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 119 
 
 tarits* 123 dwelling houses, besides stores, mechanic 
 shops, &c. Has a court hcuse and jail, and a banking 
 establishment. This town derives an importance from 
 Its central position, by standing in one of the most north- 
 pily bends of the Ohio ; thereby presenting one of the 
 nearest points of Ohio navigation to that extensive body 
 of rich land, at and around the Delaware towns, which 
 yet remains uncultivated. The town is, except on the 
 river board, surrounded by ru^ed, high hills, which 
 offer a steep and laborious ascent for a loaded team. 
 
 JVew-LexingtoYit 16 miles west of Madison, contains 
 about 50 houses, and is in the vicinity of an extensive 
 tract of good land. 
 
 JS^eW'Londorif 10 miles below Madison, on the Ohio, 
 is formed by nature for one of the most pleasant situa- 
 tions on that river ; presenting a gradual and gentle 
 descent for 150 rods back from the river, the position of 
 the ground alFording a most excellent route for a good 
 road to the back country, and exhibiting from a distance, 
 a charming view of the broad expanse of the Ohio. 
 
 Charlestotvn, the county seat of Clark, i3 situated two 
 miles from the Ohio, 29 miles south of west from Madi- 
 son, and 14 miles above the Falls. It is one of the most 
 flourishing and neatly built towns in the state ; contains 
 about 160 houses, cliie^y of brick, a handsomfi court 
 house, and is inhaUted b]r an industrious class cf citizens. 
 There are numerous plantations around this town, con- 
 sisting of good land, and better cultivated, perhaps, than 
 any in the state. This tract is within the grant made 
 by the state of Virginia, to the brave soldiers, who, un- 
 der the celebrated general Clark, in the revolutionary 
 war, by conquering the British troops and their savage 
 allies, subjected the western country to the juriidiction 
 
ISO 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 ©f the United St?.tes. A large portion of the Grant, so 
 called, containing many thousand acres, is covered with 
 a heavy growth of beecii timber, considerably intermixed 
 with sugar maple, and divers other speeies of trees. — 
 The soil is very productive in fruit trees, wheat, and 
 English grasses. 
 
 Jeffersonville stands just above the Falls, on the west 
 bank of the Ohio. The noise, and the sight of the waters 
 tumbling over the precipices beltst^, together with a view 
 of the town of Louisville, on the opposite shore, present 
 a scenery at once variegated, romantic, picturesque and 
 grand. The town is built on the second bottom, above 
 the highest floods, affording a complete view of the river. 
 The nonresidence of the proprietors (of whom many are 
 minors) of town lots and of the adjacent country, has 
 hitherto much checked the prosperity of this delightful 
 spot. Of the buildings, which are not very numerous, 
 some are designed and executed in a neat and elegant 
 style, particularly the mansion which was the residence 
 of the late Gov. Posey. A land office, a post office and 
 a printing office a^e established in this to\ n. 
 
 A canal is projected, to commence a few rods east of 
 Jeffersonville, at the mouth of a ravine, thence through 
 the back lots of the town, terminating at an eddy, at the 
 foot of the rapids, by the town of Clarksville. To effect 
 this purpose, the legislature of Indiana, in January 1818, 
 incorporated the Jeffersonville Ohio Canal Company, with 
 a capital of g 1,000,000 ; and granted them permission to 
 raise glOO,000 by lottery. In May, 1819, a survey and 
 location having been previously made, the excavation was 
 commenced, and continues to be prosecuted with spirit, 
 and the fairest prospects of success. The extent of this 
 canal will be 2if mik3 ; the average depth 45 feet ; width 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 ISi 
 
 ; west 
 waters 
 a vievr 
 »resent 
 ue and 
 , above 
 B river, 
 my are 
 :ry, has 
 Ughtful 
 merous, 
 elegant 
 sidence 
 ice and 
 
 at top 100, and at bottom 50 feet. Except one-fourth of 
 a mile at the upper end, there is a bed of rock to be cut 
 through, 10 or 12 feet deep. The charter, which expires 
 in 1899, requires that the canal should be completed be- 
 fore the end of the year 1824. The perpendicular height 
 in the whole extent of the falls being about 23 feet, the 
 anal is expected to furnish excellent mill seats, and a 
 water power sufficient to drive machinery for very ex- 
 tensive manufacturing establishments. 
 
 In navigating the Ohio, the saving of time, expence, 
 nnd waste of property, by means of a canal, to a great 
 extent above the falls, is incalculable. It has been esti- 
 mated, that Cincinnati alone, for several years past, has 
 paid an extraordinary expence for transporting goods 
 around the falls, exceeding g50,000. The several states 
 bordering on the river above, are each interested in the 
 success of this great undertaking, and it is presumed they 
 will liberally contribute their aid to perfect it. The ter- 
 ritory and population to be benefitted by this work, is so 
 extensive, strong hopes have been entertained that some 
 adequate provision will be made by the general govern- 
 ment. Capital cannot, perhaps, at the present day, be 
 vested in any public funds that will yield a more produc- 
 tive regular income, than in this establishment. 
 
 ^ew-Mlanyy the seat of justice for Floyd county, is 
 \\ miles below JefFersonville, on the bank of the Ohio, on 
 an extensive plain of rich bottom lands. From the first 
 settlement of this town, its progress was rather slow, until 
 within two or three of the last years ; since which period 
 it has flourished greatly. The front street is more than 
 three-quarters of a mile in length ; the number of houses, 
 of which several are spacious and elegant, are supposed 
 to exceed :i 90 ; a steam grist and saw mill, each of which 
 
1S3 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 r\\ 
 
 perform extensive business, are a great advantage to the 
 town and surrounding country. A spirit of enterprise 
 and industry seems generally to animate the inhabitants, 
 and to exhibit the appearance of a brisk, business-doing 
 place. Floyd was erected into a county in the winter of 
 1818, out of the counties of Clark and Harrison. 
 
 Corydon, the ser.c of justice for the county of Harri- 
 son, is also the present capital of the state, the constitu- 
 tion having appointed it the stat of legislation until 1825. 
 Distant from New- Albany, nortinvest, 21 miles ; from the 
 nearest point of the Ohio, about 13 — lays between the 
 forks of Indian creek, at their junction — is surrounded 
 by elevated ground, of gentle ascent — contains 8 or IQ 
 neat buildings, beside many others which are ordinary ; 
 a spacious court house of stone, which is occupied by the 
 legislature during their session. The supreme court is 
 holden at this place, exclusively. 
 
 A few miles from the town, north, northeast and north- 
 west, an extensive tract of land, called the barrens^ com- 
 mences, and spreads out in divers directions, in some 
 points several miles — the surface commonly undulating 
 •—occasionally are deep sink holes, resembling half-filled 
 wells— the growth is scattering, small oak shrubs, with 
 here and there small clumps of oak trees, of a moderate 
 size ; a coarse, short, wild grass, grateful to cattle and 
 sheep, overspreads the ground ; the soil in some parts 
 thin and sterile, but generally productive of good cro])S 
 of corn, small grain, clover and timothy. The region of 
 these barrens is remarkable for caverns, some of which 
 are spacious, from five to fifty feet in height from the 
 flooring ; the bottom, roof and walls of flat limestcne— - 
 the latter often as perpendicular as the walls of a room. 
 It is not uncommon to find streams large enough to drif e 
 
 -. -1^ 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 123 
 
 ft mill briskly, pouring their waters over the bottoms of 
 these caves. Small oaks, of a tolerable height, as thinly 
 scattered as the apple trees in an orchard, usually com- 
 mence at the termination of the barrens^ and extend for 
 a good distance, sometimes for tlie space of two or three 
 miles. This description, it is conceived, will apply to 
 most of the barrens in the state. 
 
 After the constitutional term expires, the seat of gov- 
 ernment will be removed from Corydon into tiie interior, 
 probably on or near the West Fork of Whiteriver, within 
 the late purchase— Congress having granted to the state 
 four square miles, for a permanent se?.t of legislation, to 
 be selected by the state from the public lands. Fixing 
 the temporary seat of government at Corydon has not 
 80 much contributed to the prosperity of the town as wa» 
 expected. Being without any water communication with 
 the Ohio, one and the nearest of the great high ways of 
 the west, Corydon is unfortunately located within that 
 grade of distance from navigable water — where towns 
 have never been known to flourish in this country — not 
 so near as to enjoy t!ie advantage of a river market, and 
 not distant enough to obtain the country custom. Tlie 
 natural situation of the place, however, presents a scenery 
 that attracts the attention of a stranger — a level bottom, 
 encompassed by two fine never failing streams of water, 
 and surrounded by high grounds, gradually rising like 
 an amphitheatre. 
 
 Salenif the capital of Washington county, a new but 
 flourishing town, 34 miles north of Corydon, and 25 north 
 west of Jeffersonville, stands on a small branch of Blue 
 river, and contains a decent court house, of brick, 80 of 
 90 houses, some of which- are neat buildings. Around 
 this town is an extensive tract of land, of a superioi- 
 
 ' n 
 
iM 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 quality, covered with a thick growth of stately forest 
 trees. 
 
 Brownstown, the seat of justice for the county of Jack* 
 «on, 25 miles north of Salem, is situated near the eastern 
 branch of Whiteriver, on the eastern side, a short distance 
 from the boundary line of the late purchase. The soil 
 around Brownstown consists of a gray sandy loam ; it 
 is -very friable, and not liable to bake and harden by the 
 heat of tiie sun. This spot appears to be without the 
 limits of the calcareous region— on a strip of land from 
 two to five miles in width, and from eight to fifteen in 
 length, scarcely any limestone arc to be found. Within 
 a mile of the town are large quantities of iron oie, tlie 
 best which has been discovered in the state. This town 
 was laid off in the midst of the forest, only three or four 
 years ago, and the greater part of the houses are cabbins. 
 
 Paolif the county scat of Orange, is about 70 miles 
 eastwardly of Vincennes, and 40 northwest of Jefferson- 
 ville, near the centre of a large tract of valuable lands. 
 The place whore the town stands, but three or four years 
 ago, was covered witli large forest trees. 
 
 Fredonla, a post town in the county of Crawford, 42 
 miles below the Falls, is situated in the great Horse-shoe 
 Bend, on an elevated plain, commanding an extensive 
 antl romantic prospect of tlie Ohio. A convenient pas- 
 sage way is opened by nature, through the rocks, to the 
 river ; which is here very bold on the western shore, form- 
 ing a fine eddy. Between the town and the river are 
 a series of horizontal benches, terminating next the town 
 in solid, perpendicular rock, where vines and fruit trees 
 might be cultivated. There is a spring of good water 
 near the centre of the town. In the ledges near the town, 
 are abundance of good free stone. The town occupies 
 
Ifcfci^ 
 
 iS3 
 
 INDIANA. . 
 
 convenient accessibfe pa 'nolltlf '" '" ""^ "^''^"t 
 e.xtont of counh-v round ?; """S'^e waters for a great 
 
 ;'- conntr, on eL. ^JtjZ"7 '"" ''' ^^^ "' 
 favorable for much travel ar,. r ' ' """r '"'les, is 
 -".em states into t ett "r' ^J'J^^/and the 
 '\v.ng about th. centre of tZ '''""'• '^'''« *<»vn 
 
 ^'^'' to be as near a ^t a, "„?"' ".'^ '"^ "^"•' '^ -PP- 
 -'•■•ch ma^ be locat .1 for 1 /. "" *" *"' *° *''« ^ 
 ■•"="'• It is believed ttt forT'":"* '"="' ''^e'"'^™- 
 «Pot on the riverunifes so man T ^" ""^^ "» otl'er 
 " t»'vn. The settlement ,^7 "'*""' conveniences for 
 the fall of 1818. ''* "'"' "»t commenced „nti[ 
 
 I^venworthviUe aho„» , ■, . 
 
 »- town in Crawfo din;: tl *'"« "■-•' - « 
 containing a few houses ^' " '^^ ^'"'^ "^ the Ohio. 
 
 fc«.W.„.. the county seat f„.r . 
 ted in the woods, and contain, 1 ''*''''^»''''' '« l«ca. 
 
 -ght miles northwest of FrZH '""''*"' '* " ">«•" 
 
 '"-^rrr^V^-'-^-^avies count,, i. 
 "-tb.and lefromThellrr^^' ' ""''«=' '■™-»^ e 
 centre of a large bod, of elSf 7I'"<'"^«'' '" «- 
 fo*s of the river; its beL^ 1 ' ^ "« ''"'"■" "w 
 
 -vigable «treams,;ffoL^;4 ;; '"^-ccted "^ those 
 f'e produce of the count'^wtrh T '"^"P»'t'ng 
 ">»n, small streams of gS I, " T" '"■'PP'-'^d «ith 
 '"eral rich prairas. ^ "^''*"' "'«' «terspersed with 
 
 «'«'^Z:SteT£tr'^^^« Wabash, called 
 
 -tural situation is y^l^^^^TT "I ""•"•''• T'- 
 
 J- P'^Mnt, near large bodies of 
 
1S6 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 etone coal. It is the seat of justice for Sullivan countj, 
 which consists of a beautiful, fertile, well watered tract 
 of country, through which flows for a considerable extent, 
 the waters of the Wabash. Here are spacious prairas of 
 the first quality, and a number of very large, productive 
 plantations. Among the prairas are included the Honey 
 creek. Fort Harrison and Praira creek prairas, all which 
 present a most delightful scenery ; the surface admitting 
 of excellent roads, at all seasons of tlieyear, and the soil 
 equal to any portion of the western country. These na- 
 tural advantages have spefedily produced an influx of 
 population, and a degree of improvement, whicli has been 
 rarely equalled u the west. 
 
 Terre Haute, within the same county, about two miles 
 below fort Harrison, is delightfully situated on a high 
 bank of the Wabash, with a gradual descent to the river, 
 along which extends a skirt of woodland near a mile in 
 width. It was laid out in 1816, and is rapidly iacreasing 
 its population and extending its improvements. 
 
 Shakertown, settled by that industrious class of people 
 called Shakers, lays at the lower end of the county, near 
 the mouth of the Busseron, 15 miles above Vincennes. 
 
 VincenneSf the earliest settlement between Kaskaskia 
 and Pittsburgh, is pleasantly situated on the west bank 
 of the Wabash, being the seat of justice for the county of 
 Knox, and formerly the seat of legislation for the terri- 
 tory of Indiana. It was settled by French emigrants in 
 17S5, who in the remote recesses of a wilderness, isola- 
 ted from the civilized world, formerly approximated in 
 manner and appearance to the savage tribes around them, 
 having scarcely any intercourse with other people — they 
 have, however, since their acquaintance with the Ameri- 
 cans) much improved their condition, and among them 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 1:87 
 
 may now be found intelligent men, wlio have resumed 
 much of that "rbanitj of manners peculiar to Frenchmen. 
 
 Vincennes, by the serpentine course of the Wabash, is 
 distant from the mouth of that river 1 52 miles ; while 
 from Evansville, the nearest point of the Ohio, it is but 54. 
 It is the most populous town in the state — and altliough 
 long stationary, from causes not within its control, it is 
 now, under the fostering care of a free government, by 
 the accession of a class of intelligent and enterprising 
 inliabitants, developing its natural resources, by a rapid 
 increase of population, and an *»xtension of various im- 
 portant branches of business. Wm. Fellows & Co. have 
 built a large steam grist and saw mill, and are erecting 
 the present year (1819) twelve spacious brick buildings. 
 The town contains about 300 dwelling houses, a court 
 house of brick, a jail, a specious neat brick seminary, two 
 places for public worship, one Presbyterian and one Ro* 
 man Catholic, a public land office, a post office, a bank« 
 and two printing offices. 
 
 Princeton^ the seat of justice for the county of Gibson, 
 35 miles southerly from Vincennes, is a flourishing little 
 town, very recently commenced. About one half of this 
 county consists of a soil remarkably good ; the residue is 
 second rate. It is watered by the Wabash and White 
 rivers, and some of their tributary streams. 
 
 Rockport, so named from its being situated upon a 
 rock, which presents a high bold front on the Ohio, 
 commands a romantic prospect of the river. This town, 
 which is but just commenced, is the seat of justice for 
 Spencer, one of the best counties in the state. 
 
 Evansmlle stands on a bend in the Ohio, at the mouth 
 of Big Pigeon creek, 54 miles south of Vincennes, and 45 
 miles above the mouth of the Wabash* It is the seat of 
 
128 
 
 INDIANA, 
 
 justice for Vandebtirgh county. Tliis town is in tlie vi- 
 cinity of a large tract of excellent land, and acquires an 
 importance from being the nearest and most convenieiit 
 landing for emigrants bound up the Wubasli. This i^ 
 considered among the best natural situations for mer- 
 cantile business in the state. 
 
 Harmony, 54 miles below Vinccnnes, and 106 by watoi- 
 above the mouth of the Wabash, stands on the bank of 
 that river, and is the capital of Posey, the son tii western 
 county of the state. It was settled in 1814, by a religious 
 sect of Germans, denominated Harmonists, now consist- 
 ing of nearly 800 inliabitants. They were first establislied 
 about 20 miles from Pittsburgh, whence they removed to 
 this place, where they possess seveial thousand acres ot' 
 good land, in a body ; which is held in the name of Geo. 
 Rapp, tlieir head man and religious teaclier, as he alleges, 
 for the common use of the whole. These people are re- 
 markable for the observance of the rules prescribed by 
 their leader, whom they call father, and in whose name 
 all purchases and sales are made ; they are remarkable 
 for their regularity, industry and skill in the mechanic 
 arts— are cultivators of the grape vine, and manufacture 
 several kinds of excellent cloths. 
 
 Rivers and principal streams. — The Great Miami, 
 Ohio and Wabash rivers, which constitute a considerable 
 portion of the boundary lines of Indiana, are to be found 
 described in our preliminary remarks. The meanderings 
 of the Ohio in passing the width of the state (in a right 
 line but 155 miles) are reckoned 472 miles in extent. 
 
 Whiteivater, flowing with a rapid c rrent of pure wa- 
 ter, generally over a sandy, pebbly bottom, draws its foun- 
 tain from two chief branches : the east heading near Ohio 
 western boundary, in that state, a few miles west of 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 1^ 
 
 I tlie vi- 
 aires an 
 ivenieiit 
 Tills i". 
 or mcr- 
 
 ay wator 
 
 bank ot 
 iwestern 
 religious 
 
 consist- 
 tablishi'd 
 inoveil to 
 
 acres ol" 
 ic of Geo. 
 e alleges, 
 le are re- 
 iribcd by 
 
 se name 
 arkable 
 echanic 
 
 ufacture 
 
 Miami, 
 
 tiderable 
 
 )e found 
 
 iderings 
 
 a right 
 
 ktent. 
 
 jure wa- 
 
 lits foun- 
 
 jar Ohio 
 
 Iwest of 
 
 Greenville ; the west takes its origin in the flat lands, 3(1 
 miles west of Rrookville, just below which town the two 
 branches form a junction, and after running; about fifty 
 milcK in a southerly direction, empty into the Great 
 Miami 4;^ miles in a right line from its confluence with 
 the Ohio. 
 
 Next below, on the Ohio, in course as named, are 
 Tanner's, Wilson's, Hogan's (the two main branches of 
 ^vhich unite within one hundred rods from the mouth,) 
 Laugh ry's, Arnold's and Grant's creeks, all within the 
 county of Dearborn. Indian creek, the southern boun- 
 dary of the Swiss settlement, is seven miles above the 
 mouth of Kentucky river. Silver creek joins the Ohio 
 a short distance below the Falls. Wyandot is equidistant 
 from the Falls and Blue river. 
 
 The Big Blue river, after meandering 50 miles south- 
 west, bends to the east of south, and empties into the 
 Ohio, 52 miles below the mouth of Salt river. 
 
 Little Blue river finds its source in the hills which 
 skirt the Ohio, and forming several cascades, the decliv- 
 ities of which furnish convenient mill seats, meets the 
 Ohio about 12 miles below the mouth of Big Blue river. 
 Ten miles below the former is Sinking creek. 
 
 Jlndersoii^s river, 60 miles further down, is the largest 
 stream between Blue river and the Wabash. Piqua and 
 Beaver creeks join the Ohio below. Many fine streams 
 of water, aftbrding convenient mill seats, intersect the 
 country between W^hite river and the Ohio. 
 
 The main branch of the Wabash heads two miles east 
 of fort St. Mary's, in Dark county, Ohio. Of the three 
 other branches, the one called Little river heads seven 
 miles south of fort Wayne, and enters the Wabash 80 
 luiles below St. Mary's portage. The east is the Massis- 
 
i30 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 tdniway, heading cquidiKtant from forts Greenville and 
 Recovery, and reaches tiie Wabash 5 miles below the 
 mouth of Little river. The third is Eel river, issuing 
 from several lakes ami ponds 18 miles west of Fort 
 Wayne, and joins the Wabash eight miles below the 
 mouth of the Massisinaway. 
 
 The whole range of country traversed by the water of 
 the Wabash, is remarkable for its destitution of hills, 
 and prominences. 
 
 Petokttf a small river, running a wevSt course, about 
 75 miles through rich bottom, falls into the Wabash, 
 four miles below White river. 
 
 White River meanders nearly across the state south- 
 westwardly, supplying with water and fertilizing a large 
 bwly of good land»and joins the Wabash 16 miles below 
 Vincennes ; 35 miles above the mouth the two principal 
 branches unite, called North or Driftwood-Fork, and the 
 South or Muddy-Fork. 
 
 Deehe River comes into the Wabash about half way 
 between Vincennes and the mouth of White river, flow- 
 ing from the north east ; it is a rapid, short stream. 
 
 Little River i in a serpentine course from the northeast 
 over wide spread bottoms, flows into the Wabash, a short 
 distance above Vincennes. Between this and the Deche, 
 a rich bottom expands to a great extent. 
 
 St, Marie flows from the north east 60 miles, joining 
 the Wabash 18 miles above Vincennes. 
 
 Rocky River, 60 miles above St. Marie, interweaving 
 its branches with those of the main fork of White river, 
 directs its course to the Wabash — is 100 yards wide at 
 its mouth, and branches into several forks. 
 
 The Fomim meets the Wabash about 100 rniles above 
 the Rocky river — rises near the eastern boundary of the 
 
INDIANA. 
 
 131 
 
 state, not much north of the sources of Whitewater. 
 IJcsUlesthe above rivers, are a number of bmall streams,, 
 that water the country on the southeast branch of the 
 Wabash. The other side, however, is more abundant 
 ui hirge water courses. 
 
 On the northwest side, 10 miles below the Pomme, is 
 Ricliards creek ; 10 miles still below is Rock river with 
 high banks, flowing through a country rather broken. 
 
 TippacanoCy comes in 8 miles below Rock river, on 
 which was fought the bloody battle of November, IBll, 
 with the savages. Near the confluence of this river with 
 the Wabash, on both streams, are several Indian villages, 
 with extensive cultivated fields. 
 
 Above the Tippacanoe are Pine and Redwood creeks ; 
 Rejoicing or Vermillion, Jaune, Little Vermillion, Eia- 
 bliere, Duchet's, and Breuette rivers ; at an interval of 
 from eight to fifteen miles of each other j all flowing from 
 the west or north west, mostly small, and heading in 
 the state of Illinois. The rivers of Chanin, Big and Lit- 
 tle Kemomic, which flow to lake Michigan ; the Thea- 
 kiki, Kickapoo, and a part of the chief branches of Illi- 
 nois river, all meander through the north western part 
 of the state ; and all, except the last, entirely within its 
 boundaries : the three first running from south to north ; 
 the latter, south and southwest. The Vermillion of Illi- 
 nois rises in Indiana, near the sources of Tippacanoe* 
 There are many smaller streams not enumerated. The 
 borders of the Michigan lake, within the state, are well 
 watered by the numerous forks of Black river and St 
 Joseph's, of lake Michigan ; the latter heading near, and 
 interlocking with the branches of Eel rivert and pursu- 
 ing a winding course 70 miles through the northern part 
 of Indiana. 
 
132* 
 
 INDIANA. 
 
 Tlve northern hiilf of tiie state is interspersed with a 
 great number of lakes — 38 of which, from two to teii 
 miles in length, have been delineated on maps. The 
 actual number is supposed to exceed 100. Some have 
 two distinct out-lets ; one running into the northern lakes, 
 the other into the Mississippi. The greatest number of 
 these lakes are between the head waters of the two St 
 Joseph's, Black, Raisin, Tippacanoe and Eel rivers. 
 
 V-". 
 
^■ 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 The state of Illinois is bounded north by the North- 
 west Territory, east by Indiana, south by the Ohio, which 
 separates it from Kentucky, and west by the Mississippi : 
 long. 10° 17' to 14° 17' lat.37° to 41° 55' north— 345 
 miles long from north to south, and 220 from east to west 
 — containing about 50,000 square miles. The Ohio, 
 Wabash and Mississippi constitute nearly three-fourths 
 of the extent of boundary of this state. 
 
 Face of the country^ soil, Sfc, — The soutliern and mid- 
 dle sections of this state are partly level and partly 
 '.vaiving, with gentle swells. It has been estimated, that 
 about two-thirds of the whole territory is occupied by 
 prairas. Of those prairas there are two distinct species : 
 the one, low, wet and flat, occasionally cold and tinpro- 
 iluctive, contributing to form the sources of streams, and 
 exhibiting the appearance of being the bottom of lakes, 
 long since drained or dried up, am covered with a 
 very coarse, tall grass. Of this kind, there are few in 
 this state. The other species is from 25 to 80 feet higher ; 
 consisting, commonly, of a deep, strong, dry,' warm, dark 
 colored, sandy loam, that has been formerly covered with 
 timber, long since killed and consumed by fires, kindled 
 nnd supported by dead grass, spread over the surface ; 
 which fires, in dry seasoos, destroy the preceding growth 
 of young trees, and gradually encroach on the surround- 
 ing forests. By these m>?ans the sp?ces of the prairas are 
 
134 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 constantly enlarged. The upland prairas yield gtasses 
 from two to six teet high ; which, though coarse and wild, 
 ailbrd excellent food for cattle, both irf a green and dry 
 state. 
 
 The easterr boundary of Illinois, leaves the Wabash 
 about sixteen miles below fort Harrison. From that point 
 to the mouth, the country bordering on the Wabash, is 
 distinguishable from other regions in the west, that lie 
 near most of the great rivers, by the absence of hills and 
 high banks. The country is generally level, and so flat, 
 that much of it is overflowed by high waters, from 100 
 rods to two or three miles wide. The lands are, how- 
 ever, covered with a rich soil, and afford many valuable 
 sites for plantations. 
 
 The northeastern part of Illinois, is covered with im- 
 mense tracts of prairas ; sOme of which are extended over 
 broad swells of land, so elevated as to aftbrd to a specta- 
 tor, a distinct vision of some of the rivers and flat lands 
 in the remotest parts of the state. But, what is singular, 
 even the highest prairas are supposed to be too wet for 
 plough fields : they seem designed by nature, as sources 
 from whence to supply many of the tributary streams, 
 which form the sheet of waters, that in a manner sur- 
 rcund the state. The greater portion of this tract is wet 
 praira, well calculated for the raising of stock ; the sur- 
 face generally rolling, sometimes elevated to swells, 
 which though of gentle ascent, are spread out . as to 
 Mcupy much space. 
 
 The soil over most of this country, is deep and rich ; 
 tlie water plenty and timber scarce. 
 
 The Korth western part of the state, is a hilly, uneven 
 country ; whence several tributary streams, wldch flow 
 from tliO north into the Wabash^have their source* 
 
ILLINOIS. 
 
 135 
 
 ICv 
 
 From Vinccnnes to Carlisle on the Kaskaskia, 106 
 miles on the route to St. Louis, is rich, dry, pralra land ; 
 the soil from two to five feet deep ; without wood, ex- 
 cept the skirts bordering on water courses. The first 
 ten miles includes Ellison's praira, on the river Rmbarraa; 
 an excellent tract. Tlie largest praira^ through which the 
 public road passes, in this direction, called the Grand 
 PrairOy is 22 miles wide, and reaches within three miles 
 of Carlisle. The whole extent of country from t\m Em- 
 barrass, is scantily supplied with streams of water : and 
 those few which traverse the country, are generally ex- 
 hausted in the dry summer months. This whole tract 
 appears to be without the calcareous region ; no lime- 
 stone being discoverable, and but few substances formed 
 r calcareous earths. The next -Lcrata to the soil, which 
 k a black, sandy loam, is red clay mixed with fine sand, 
 from five to ten feet deep. The third strata is a hard, 
 dark blue clay, mixed wi h pebbles, and so strongly im- 
 pregnated with sulphur and copperas, as to emit a feticl, 
 offensive smell. The only water which car- be obtained 
 from the wells in most of this country, though consider- 
 ed not injurious to health, is rendered disgustful, by the 
 impregnation of sulphur and copperas. 
 
 Froj^ the Kaskaskia, at Carlisle, to St. Louis, 54 miles, 
 is a ?' <^.t' t^ne country — the suiface somewhat broken — > 
 lebA vi, stronger soil, better water, and m.c e wood, 
 than on 'i • **«,st mentioned tract. 
 
 Between Edwardsville and the military bounty lands, 
 ♦'e space over the American bottom, for 8 miles, is first rate 
 * md ; the remaining distance, 28 miles, is considerably 
 broken ; the soil good, except on the high ridges, rather 
 thin, and well supplied with wood and water. In the 
 blv.i . near Edwardsville and Alton, are large quantities 
 
136 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 A range of hills, from three to five miles wide, extend, 
 next the Ohio bottoms, from the Wabash nearly to the 
 Mississippi ; frequently rising into bluffs, on the banks ol 
 the Ohio, to the height of 100 feet. North of these hills, 
 for a considerable distance, nearly parallel therewith, is 
 a chain of swamps, not of great width, that might be 
 drained, filled with clear water, produced from springs 
 that do not stagnate, and covered with a large growth of 
 cypress trees. 
 
 The American bottom, in width from two to eight 
 miles, extending on the Mississippi, from the Kaskaskia 
 to within 5 miles of the Missouri, being in length, by 
 the course ot V ri"er, about 100 miles, has been formed 
 by the alluvion • e Mississippi, and is one of the rich- 
 est tracts in the world : some of it has produced crops, 
 in annual succession, without manuring, and with not the 
 least perceptible impoverishment of the soil, for more 
 than a century. The bluffs, bounding the American bot- 
 tom, are from 100 to 300 feet high ; presenting a perpen- 
 dicular front to the river, of limestone ; but sloping east- 
 wardly two or three miles : the soil is second rate, much 
 broken into sink holes ; the growth of timber, oak. 
 
 From tie mouth of the Missouri to the mouth of the 
 Illinois, about 25 miles, the eastern shore is bordered by 
 hills, from 80 to 100 feet high. Above the latter river, 
 the hills are of a more gentle ascent. 
 
 The Military Bounty Lands are located between the 
 rivers Mississippi and Illinois, in the form of an irregular 
 curvilinear triangle ; and extend, from their junction, on 
 a straight line, north, 169 miles. The whole tract sur- 
 veyed is about 5,360,000 acres ; exceeding, by nearly 
 2,000,000 acres, the quantity appropriated by Congress 
 for soldiers' bounties ; which was 3,500,000. On each of 
 
ILLINOIS. 
 
 137 
 
 teml, 
 o the 
 iksot 
 hills, 
 ith, is 
 rhtbe 
 prings 
 wth of 
 
 eight 
 kaskia 
 ;th, by 
 formed 
 le rich- 
 [ crops, 
 not the 
 ir more 
 anbot- 
 )erpeiv- 
 east- 
 
 ,much 
 
 of the 
 
 jred by 
 
 river, 
 
 ken the 
 [egular 
 ion, on 
 tt sur- 
 Incarly 
 Ingress 
 kch of 
 
 these rivers, for nearly 100 miles above theirconfiuence, 
 much of the bottom lands, of which there arc large quan- 
 tities, are overflowed by the high waters. Next to these 
 bottoms, for an indefinite width, and occasionally, (near 
 the southern extremity) from river to river, from two to 
 six miles, in the course of the respective rivers, is a 
 range of high lands, broken into hills and knobs, commonly 
 of a thin soil, with here and there intervals of level spa- 
 ces : most of the latter are covered with a strong, deep 
 soil. 
 
 As we proceed to the north-east, beyond this region, 
 the surface of the Bounty Lands becomes more conve- 
 nient for cultivation, having gentle undulations; and 
 many of the prairas in this tract are exceeding rich, skirt- 
 ed by wood-lands of a good width — well watered, and 
 exhibiting a delightful scenery. But these qualities of 
 soil and surface, are not to be considered as extensively 
 uniform : they are subject to various exceptions. For a 
 general description of the Bounty Lands, it may be ob- 
 served, that they are abundantly accommodated with 
 wood and good water ; some large portions are too low 
 and wet for cultivation, or salutary to health ; other parts» 
 of considerable extent, are overspread with abrupt hills 
 and high knobs : but, that with considerable exceptions, 
 the whole tract is covered with a good soil. 
 
 On the river Embarras, which joins the Wabash eight 
 miles westwardly of Vincennes, is a large tract of excel- 
 lent land, well timbered, with the exception of a small 
 portion of praira. On the public road leading from Vin- 
 cennes to Missouri, three miles east of the Embarras, is 
 a flourishing settlement of eastern emigrants, who are 
 of a religious sect denominated Christians. They are 
 located on Ellison's praira, which is'tlie first rate of that 
 
 MS 
 
133 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 Species of land, and is skirted by a sufficient width of 
 the most valuable wood and timber. The industry ot 
 those people, and the fertility of the soil they occupy, 
 enables them to furnish provisions at a cheap rate, to 
 emigrants traversing the extensive tract of unpeopled 
 country, east from the mouth of the Missouri ; througli 
 which there are places on the road, from 20 to 30 miles, 
 destitute of a dwelling house. 
 
 The region between the Big and Little Wabash, west 
 of the latter, occupies a space of from 15 to 25 miles wide, 
 which is covered by an excellent soil. The largest part 
 of this tract has lately been surveyed, and will be short- 
 ly offered for sale. Much of the land bordering on the 
 two rivers is attended with the inconvenience of being 
 occasionally flooded by the high waters — But at some 
 distance from the banks, the high lands afford handsome 
 and valuable situations for farms, particularly on lands 
 near the Bumpaw creek. The prevailing growth of tim- 
 ber is hickory, black walnut, ash, elm, oak, hackberry, 
 cotton 'vood, honey locv.st, and sugar maple. Such parts 
 as are subject tc in'mdation, and other low rich tracts, 
 covered with a thick growth of wild vegetables, or of 
 forest trees, are considered very unfavorable to healtli in 
 summer months. 
 
 At the confluence of the Wabash Avith the Ohio, are 
 many thousand acres of rich bottom land, niost of which 
 is chiefly flooded during the period of high waters. 
 
 The lands bordering on the waters of the Kaskaskia, 
 which derives its source near the centre of the state, are 
 of a superior quality. They are finely situated and 
 form a surface convenient for cultivation — neither flat 
 nor mountainous, but possess a medium, undulating in 
 gentle swells. Through this delightful region, the navi- 
 
ILLINOIS. 
 
 139 
 
 til of 
 try oi 
 ;cupy, 
 lie, to 
 jopled 
 irough 
 niiles, 
 
 h, west 
 
 !9 wide, 
 
 est part 
 
 e short- 
 
 r on the 
 
 of being 
 
 at some 
 
 indsome 
 
 on lands 
 of tim- 
 ckberiy, 
 ch parts 
 1 tracts, 
 es, or of 
 iiealtli in 
 
 )hio, are 
 lof which 
 
 Is. 
 
 laskaskia, 
 
 Istate, are 
 
 ^ted and 
 
 ither flat 
 
 lating in 
 
 the navi- 
 
 gable waters of the Kaskaskia, flow southwardly more 
 than 130 miles and discharge themselves in tlie Missis- 
 sippi, about 100 miles above the mouth of the Ohio. — 
 The tributary streams which intersect the country, af- 
 fords many convenient mill seats. Tlie seat of govern- 
 ment for this new state is located on the banks of this 
 river, in 39° 7' north latitude. This intended metropolis, 
 which is named Vandalia, is about 83 miles from St. 
 Louis, and about 95 miles northeastwardly from Kas- 
 kaskia. 
 
 The Parasaw creek commences its source between 
 50 and 50 miles cast of the Illinois, and running south- 
 wardly in a serpentine course, discharges its waters into 
 the Mississippi, between 30 and 40 miles from its head, 
 on a straight line, about ten miles below the mouth of the 
 Illinois. It is a small stream, and navigable only a few 
 miles up. Some excellent bottom lands of a moderate 
 extent, form the margin of this creek ; but much of the 
 soil on the bordering high lands is thin ; the forest trees 
 consisting of a handsome growth of oak and hickory. 
 A species of wild grass which att'ords a tolerable forage 
 for cattle, covers the surface of the ground. The lan- 
 guor and muddiness of the stream in the dry seasons, 
 render the water nearly stagnant, and produce an un- 
 favorable eifect on health. There are, however, some 
 excellent sites for plantations unoccupied, scattered 
 over this tract, which has lately been surveyed. Mr. 
 Moffat, from New-York, and some Irish families, have 
 comm»nced a settlement on one branch of this creek.—- 
 High bluffs from one to two miles in width, extend two 
 or three miles from below the creek, in one continuous 
 ridge, on the margin of the Mississippi, to about five 
 miles above the mouth of the Illinois ; with the excep- 
 
140 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 tion of intervals caused by the mouths of rivulets, enter« 
 ing the Mississippi, and k space of narrow bottom, two 
 or three miles long, below the Illinois, occupied by tliree 
 or four French families. 
 
 A brarich of the Grand Praira, which lies between Vin- 
 cennes and St. Louis, before described, commences 
 about 12 miles northeast of the Parasaw, and extendi 
 17 miles in length, (the width not exactly known) to 
 lands bordering on the Macopen creek. This praira is 
 interspersed with divers clusters of good timber trees, 
 occupying from one to five acres each. In some places 
 it approaches within 200 rods of the Parasaw. The soil 
 is generally good, excepting near that stream, a space of 
 about six miles square, is thinly covered with small 
 stinted oaks ; which may be considered rather a barren 
 than a praira. Here the surface is more rolling and the 
 grass shorter, than on the other parts of the praira. In 
 this tract of barren, some springs of water are to be found ; 
 but not so frequently as on the praira j where the sur- 
 face is varied into broad, gentle swells, so as to make 
 the scenery pleasant and the cultivation convenient. 
 The Grand Praira is bottomed on a yellow, loamy clay, 
 which form a kind of pan, that will render the fertility 
 of the soil durable. It will also render it abundantly 
 productive of English grasses, such as clover, timothy, 
 spear and red top. It has been ascertained, that prairas, 
 whose strata, next the soil is composed of sand, of which 
 kind there are several in the western country, although 
 they produce good crops of corn and small grain, will 
 not nourish English grasses. The best parts of the 
 Grand Praira, are covered by a black, sandy loam which 
 IS not drenched by heavy rains, nor baked by ardent 
 suns. The wild grass, which makes excellent fodder for 
 
ictmois. 
 
 cattle, grows here with * 
 
 i» easy penetn^te,. w^.^p J^;--!' -" "'« soU 
 stagnant pools, and the ,y,J,T' *'"" **'"§ "» 
 
 c»W and limpid, there is Jll ^'"^ ^^eedingly pure. 
 States -he.e bttJStT'r "^^ "''^'^ ""'"'-^ 
 siluation i, highly saLbi"^ ^ '"•>"''=•'• "That thi. 
 
 excellent quality of thi'^T''™ ^''"•'' "•""» *»■• 
 '-fo.-e the land^ Jle ^ XT' I" "'r*-' '""S 
 »»tcrs of the Macopen creek f»t f °"" "^ *''* •"""•• 
 Grand Praira. **''* *^«"- "«« from the 
 
 Ahout ten miles southeast nf Tii- • 
 Mississippi, is a tract XuirV"'' *"'' »''"'« 
 »l>at is called the JVound PrX I ''' ""''^*'"S "^ 
 »ide, and from four „ fi^f „ ^ f™" "''» *» «00 -"ods 
 'l>efirstquality,wellsunnlr !k°"^- '""^ '"^ '""f 
 
 -ding upland is oeS 'it! a h"1"' "" ^"^ ""- 
 timlwr trees. On this tar, *''»•"''<>'»« growth of 
 
 Moimd Praira and the Z. ™"'' ^™'™' t^e 
 
 «Kd during the Sn I^dT" T''"' "'"" ^'- 
 - August the presen " T"'f '«'«■ "»'' ^-re. 
 '20 families had settled C /'" *° '"'"• Nearly 
 ' ejed. This tit fe!lf l: ^JT *'" '""'■' ^-o »"- 
 '"inois with the Ms2rL''w "''"'' J""^«»»<'f the 
 '"d the former 36 mile! ^""^ °" ""= '"""^ »« 
 
 --Catd Se' ::fe:™t "^* '■" »'-^'"-' 
 
 from the river,- and he wl ^''^Sntdually recede 
 
 ------ms,rrrS:-2;K 
 
14^ 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 banks, finding no return passage, become stagnant in 
 the warmer seasons, and contaminating the air with 
 the noxious particles which are exhaled from the witas- 
 mata, produce agues and summer fevers. 
 
 About 25 miles from the mouth of the Illinois, on the 
 east bank of the Mississippi, 25 miles above St. Louis, 
 is situated Alton. This town lies west of Edwardsville 
 10 miles, and was located in 1816. Nearly 100 decent 
 houses are already erected. The spirit of enterprise dis- 
 played by the settlers, who are mostly from the eastern 
 states, and the natural advantages attached to the place, 
 point out this town as a stand where small capitals in 
 trade may be profitably vested. The soil of the sur- 
 rounding lands is of a middling quality ; the face of the 
 country rolling ; the prevailing growth, walnut, hickory 
 and oak ; the ground generally overspread among the 
 trees with an excellent kind of wild grass, by some cal- 
 led red top, which grows tall and luxuriant, and whether 
 green or well hayed, makes good food for cattle. — 
 Among the forest trees, which are tall and tliinly set, 
 the settlers mow and make into hay large quantities for 
 winter forage. The same kind of grass in that part of 
 the country is spread out under the forest trees for hun- 
 dreds of miles in every direction. When well cured, 
 the hay is esteemed equal to timothy. 
 
 Two miles from Alton, at a place called Wallace's 
 mills, on Wood creek, which empties into the Mississip- 
 pi, is the little town of Milton, on the route from Alton, 
 by Edwardsville, to Vincennes. This place contains 
 about 50 houses, and although it seems to flourish, it is 
 considered an unhealthy situation. The creek here 
 drives both a grist and saw mill ; each of which do great 
 business. The soil extending from this town to St. 
 
ILLINOIS. 
 
 443 
 
 r\t in 
 
 with 
 
 mias- 
 
 onthft 
 
 Louis, 
 
 daviUe 
 
 decent 
 
 ise dis- 
 
 eastern 
 
 le place, 
 
 pitals in 
 
 the sur- 
 
 ;e of the 
 hickory 
 
 nong the 
 
 ;ome cal- 
 wheth^i: 
 cattle— 
 inly set, 
 itities for 
 Lt part of 
 for hun- 
 [ell cured, 
 
 Wallace's 
 [ississip- 
 
 Hn Alton, 
 contains 
 
 Irish, it is 
 
 reek here 
 I do great 
 m to St. 
 
 Louis, 24 miles, is mostly excellent, being all bottom 
 land, except the six miles praira, which is one and half 
 miles wide, surrounded by trees of a handsome growth. 
 The greater part of the last described tract, is covered 
 with settlements made since the United States acquired 
 a right to the soil. A peculiar disease among the cattle 
 prevails here, which the people call milk sick, that pro- 
 duces in beasts strange tremulous motions, and so strong- 
 ly aftects them, as. often to prove mortal. No where, 
 except at this place and about the mouth of the Missouri, 
 has this disorder made its appearance. The milk of 
 cows thus affected, has proved injurious and sometimei 
 mortal to those who drink it. 
 
 Edwardsville is the seat of justice for Madiso.i county. 
 It lies eight miles from Milton, and 20 miles north east 
 from St. Louis ; is a flourishing town, containing 60 or 
 TO houses, a court house, jail, public bank, printing of- 
 fice, which issues a weekly newspaper, and a United 
 States land office, of which colonel Stevens is the Regis- 
 ter. As this county embraces all the lands above, east 
 of the Mississippi, and all the bounty lands in Illinois, 
 soldi rs' patents and grants of Illinois bounty lands are 
 recortied here. In the vicinity of this town is a society 
 of Methodists. There is an extensive tract of land 
 around this spot, of an excellent quality ; on which 
 many plantations have been opened. But, unfortunately 
 for settlers, the most valuable tracts have been monopo- 
 lized by speculating men, who are non-residents. 
 
 A few miles north-northeast from Edwardsville are 
 Shoal and Silver creeks ; bordering on which streams 
 are extensive tracts of good lands, that are settling fast. 
 
 Carlisle is situated on the west bank of the Kaskaskia, 
 from Edwardsville 50 miles, on the pHbltc road leading 
 
14^1 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 by tliat place from St. Louis to Vinceniips. Tliis is! a 
 central position, bcin^ also on the route from Hhawnee- 
 tovvn to St. Louis. Carlisle, thougli but lately comniciji- 
 ccd, is in a flourishing condition. It is accessible by 
 loaded boats from the Missi»i^ippi, in a good stage of 
 water. The country, for many miles around, is covered 
 by a rich soil, consisting of good uplands and beautiful 
 prairas, conveniently skirted with wood, and supplied 
 with good water. Large portions of these lands are yet 
 vacant, and hold out flattering prospects to settlers. . 
 
 Macoptrii Apple and Otter creeks,discharge themselves 
 into the Illinois, from the northeast, near together, from 
 25 to 30 miles above the mouth of the Illinois. Except 
 within a few miles of that river, the lands on f.ll theise 
 streams are of an excellent quality, and the situation 
 remarkably healthy. Of sixty families which the author 
 found on that tract, in the sickly months of 1818, not 
 one single person was out of health. The public survey 
 of these lands was completed in the spring of 1819.— 
 Macopen is navigable 24 miles from its mouth, and by 
 removing flood wood, boats might pass many miles fur- 
 ther up. The land within the distance of 10 or 12 miles 
 of the Illinois, is but ordinary second rate, and though 
 well watered, is broken and hilly : but eastwardly of this 
 space, tlie face of the country is variegated by gentle 
 swells — ^the soil of a superior quality, well supplied with 
 rivulets and fine springs of pure water, a good proportion 
 of praira and wood, and the whole presenting a charm- 
 ing rural scenery. The number and variety of plants, 
 growing in the prairas, produce blossoms of every hue, 
 in succession. One species of flower expanding its blos- 
 soms as another decays, constantly exhibits vegetable 
 nature, through the long summer season, in her gayest 
 
ILLINOIS. 
 
 145 
 
 i lit a 
 
 vnee- 
 
 imcn- 
 
 le by 
 
 ge of 
 
 vered 
 
 lufiful 
 
 ppVied 
 
 lie yet 
 
 •s. . 
 
 iselves 
 
 r, from 
 
 Except 
 
 il tliesc 
 
 ituation 
 
 « author 
 
 18, not 
 
 ; survey 
 
 1819.— 
 and by 
 
 lies fur- 
 2 miles 
 though 
 of this 
 gentle 
 ied with 
 ►portion 
 Gharm- 
 plant-8, 
 sry hue, 
 litsblos- 
 
 gayest 
 
 attire. There the senses of sight aud smell • find their 
 l)ii!;hcst gratification, while the mind of the spectator 
 is vastly amused in beliolding thousands of the busy in- 
 sects extracting their nectareous food and winter stores, 
 from the spontaneous bounty of a provident creator. — 
 This wonderful provision for millions of honey-bees, 
 giv*»s them the means of replenishing the hollow trees 
 of the forest with honey, of \fhich the inhabitants, with 
 little care or toil, gather bairels yearly. 
 
 A tract of land, extending on the Mississippi Bluifs 
 bordering the bottom lands near Alton, from 10 to 15 
 miles wide, eastwardly, and on bluffs bordering the Illi~ 
 nois bottoms, northwardly, from, 30 to 40 miles in length, 
 is of a waving surface- — the growth of trees, hickory 
 and oak, straight and tall, but thinly set ; springs and 
 2;ood water, rai*e. The soil, over some parts, rather 
 thin, is of a dark gray, sandy loam, bedded on a yellow, 
 indy clay, excepting where the Parasaw, Otter, Mcco- 
 pen and Apple creeks flow through, the margins of which 
 consist partly of good bottom and partly of hills and 
 knobs. 
 
 The river Sangamo discharges its waters into the 
 Illinois, on the east side, about 140 miles from its conflu- 
 ence with the Mississippi. The Sangamo, at its junc- 
 tion with the former river, is 100 yanls wide ; and is 
 navigable nearly 140 miles ; its current bold and active, 
 over a gravelly bottom ; its general course about west ; 
 is fed by various tributary streams, which intersect, in 
 divers directions, one of the finest countries in North 
 America. These waters, like mountain streams, clear 
 and pure, flowing over beds of pe bles, furnish numerous 
 cascades, that form excellent mill seats. The southern 
 branches interlock with the head waters of streams, that 
 
wsm 
 
 H6 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 M' 
 
 ni'iDgle witii tli2 Kaskaskia and the Wabasli. The tract 
 drained by tiie Sangaino and its tributaries, seems to dis- 
 play as enchanting a rural scenery as could be painted 
 by the fairest fancy of a poet or a writer of romance. — 
 The extent of this beautiful country is not yet ascertain- 
 ed by actual survey : but by hunters and military ran- 
 gers, who have traversed the region, it is supposed to 
 spread out northwardly, fror,i the head waters of Kas- 
 kaskia, from 70 to 120 miles, and eastward ly, from the 
 hills skirting the Illinois, from 40.to 70 miles. The sur- 
 face is not an unapt resemblance to the ocean, in broad 
 prominent swells, after a storm. The soil in some parts, 
 a deep, black, rich, vegetable mould ; in others, a dark 
 gray, sandy loam, all bottomed on a fine, marly clay, 
 mixed with sand. The face of the country is generally 
 interspersed with prairas, commonly long and narrow, 
 skirted with wide margins of forest trees, thinly set, but 
 of an extraordinary size and height. The growth, black 
 walnut, hickory, sugar tree, mulberry, blue and white ash, 
 honey and black locust, elm, pecan, poplar, cotton wood 
 and sycamore : the undergrowth, pawpaw and spice busli, 
 praira grass, and wild pea vines ; large grape vines are 
 discoverable in nany parts, embracing the tops of tbe 
 tallest trees. Clear rilis and rivulets, and numerous 
 springs, supply this country with fine water. Iron ore, 
 salt springs, and coal are abundant. The climate, being 
 between 40° and 41° north latitude, and the airuncon- 
 taminated with noxious exhalatiois from stagnant, pesti- 
 lential waters, is salubrious, and well adapted to vigorous 
 northern constitutions. 
 
 The Sangamo country occupies a central position, ex- 
 tending within a few miles of Vandalia, the metropolis 
 of the state of Illinois. 
 
ILLINOIS. 
 
 147 
 
 Millions of honey-bees, fed by the numberless variety 
 of flowers, with which the prairas are constaittly covered, 
 through the spring and summer months, have tilled the 
 hollow trees, of the forest with honey. . 
 
 Wild game of various kinds are found every where 
 in tl»e fox"ests. 
 
 Within the limits of the last described tract, the 
 charming wild, rural scenery, the healthiness of the cli- 
 mate, and the other natural privileges connected with 
 (he country, induced ?nore than 200 families to make set- 
 tlements, before the lands were purchased from the In- 
 dians. 
 A strip bordering on the Illinois bottom, above and below 
 the mouth of the Sangamo, from six to ten miles in width, 
 as is common near the former river, is uneven second 
 rate land. 
 
 On the 6th of Auj;ust, 1819, at Edwardsville, (Illinois) 
 the commissioners of the United States, and the chiefs 
 of the Kirkapoo tribe, negotiated a treaty, by which a 
 purchase as made of those Indians, estimated to con- 
 tain more than 10,000,000 ^f^rp.s of a tract of country 
 bounded by a line commencing at the mouth of the Illi- 
 nois river, and running eastwardly by the old purchase 
 lines, to the northwest corner of the second Kaskaskia 
 purchase ; thence northeastwardly, by the old purchase 
 line, to the line dividing the Indiana and Illinois states ; 
 thence north to the Kankankee river ; thence down that 
 river to the Illinois ; thence down the Illinois, to the 
 place of beginning : embracing, among other laids, the 
 whole tract denominated the Sangamo counf.-y. It is 
 yet unknown when the abovementioned lands will be 
 surveyed and exposed for sale. 
 
 Jlivers. — There is no state in the Union which is ac- 
 
43 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 commodated with so extensive a space of navigable wa- 
 ters, around its borders as timt of Illinois. On the north, 
 tlie navigable streams open a communication with Lake 
 Michigan, which is as a bay to the great fresh water 
 Mediterranean. On the east, the Wabash — on the 
 south, the Ohio — and on the west, the Mississippi, com- 
 municate with the ocean. The interior is intersected 
 by the Illinois, which, by the Pleiri, one of its branches, 
 and the excavation of a canal across a narrow portage, 
 that may be dug at a moderate expense, will open a pas- 
 sage for boats to the navigable waters of the Chicago, 
 that flows into the great lakes. A description of all the 
 rivers above named, except the latter, may be found in 
 our preliminary remarks. 
 
 Of many of the rivers, winding their course through 
 the vast desert and uninhabited regions of this state, be- 
 ing not yet minutely explored, but an imperfect accwint 
 can be given. The following flow into the Great Wabash, 
 from the west : Little Wabash, wliich empties into the 
 Great Wabash, 20 miles above its mouth is 80 yards 
 in width, affords several good mill seats, of which one 
 is within two miles of its mouth. The legislature of the 
 state have incorporj»*ed a company with a capital of 
 50,000 dollars, to rcinove the obstructions to the passage 
 of l)oats in this river. When this pui'pose is effected, 
 which is said to be practical at a small expense, the river 
 will be navigable 120 miles. This river drains a large 
 body of most excellent land. The Fox, which has been 
 delineated as a rivor on the maps, is but a bayou of the 
 Great Wabash. The Embarras puts into the Wabash a 
 little below Vincennes, is navigable 12 or 15 miles, and 
 affords excellent mill seats. Macontin, St. Germain, 
 a rivulet, and Jartue, a long crooked river, joins the 
 
ILLINOIS. 
 
 149 
 
 Wabash between Vincennes.and Fort Harrison. Broir- 
 ette, Duchet, Erablierand Rejoicing, head in the state of 
 Illinois, and all flow into the Wabash, between Fort Har- 
 rison and Tippacanoe ; the latter 100 yards wide at its 
 mouth. Several of these rivers derive their sources 
 from small lakes, which abound with fowl and fish. 
 
 Rivers floiviiig into the Ohio. — The Saline river joins 
 its waters with the Ohio, 30 miles below the raouth of the 
 Wabash, and is 50 yards wide ; it aifords convenient pas- 
 sage for large boats for more than half the year, as high 
 as the United States Saline, 20 miles by water and 12 
 miles on a straight line from its woutli. Grand Pierre, 
 Lush creek and Big Bay creeks afford good mill seats, 
 but are not navigable. Cash river is navigable 60 mile?, 
 half the year ; is 50 yards wide at its mouth ; three 
 miles above which, it approaches within half a mile of 
 the Mississippi, discharo;ing itself into the Ohio, five 
 miles above the mouth of tliat river. Its tribtitaiies have 
 excellent mill seats. 
 
 The following streams flow from this state, below the 
 mouth of the Illinois river, into the Mississippi : 
 
 Muddy river, called by the French the river .i Van 
 discharges its waters inta the Mississippi, about 32 miles 
 on a straight line, below the mouth of the Kaskaskia^— 
 It is a bold, steady stream, of a gentle current ; though 
 but 70 yards wide, 25 miles from its n»outh, it is naviga- 
 ble for seven months in the year, 150 miles ; and at all 
 seasons, a very considerable distance. The loose tex- 
 ture of the soil has given a good depth to this narrow 
 stream. 
 
 ^. Martfs river, a considerable mill stream, enters 
 the Mississippi about five miles on a ttraif|;ht line, below 
 the moutti of the Kaskaskia. 
 
100 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 The Kaskaskia takes its rise near the centre of the 
 state, in the ricinity of the southern branches of the 
 Sangamo ; its course southwest, till within 100 mVles of 
 the Mississippi, when it takes a south direction to its 
 mouth ; its eastern branches interlocking with the wes- 
 tern branches of the St. Mary's, Big Muddy, Little Wa- 
 bash, and the Great Wabash. Its tributaries are Crook- 
 ed, Horse, Praira de I-«ong, Silver, Sugar and Shoal 
 creeks ; besides divers small streams which ara all well 
 accommodated with mill seats. Above Shoal creek, the 
 main branch takes the name of Ok-aw. Five miles from 
 the mouth, this river is 100 yards wide, and for the dis- 
 tance of 200 miles, is navigable for boats of burden ; and 
 it is believed, that by a small expense it may be rendered 
 navigable 300 miles further up. 
 
 Cahokia creek rises by two branches, in the unsurvey- 
 ed lands northeast of Edwardsville, which is situated on 
 one of them. Forming several ponds in the American 
 bottom, it approaches within 20 yards of the river, oppo- 
 Lite to St. Louis, and discharges its waters four miles 
 belo;;- About one mile from its mouth, and five from 
 St. Louis, is Cahokiaville, which contains about 160 
 houses ; the inhabitants mostly French. This stream is 
 SO yards wide, navigable part of the year for 20 miles 
 up, and drives several mills. 
 
 Wood ri* er enters the Mississippi a short distance 
 below the mouth of the Missouri ; on it are some good 
 mill seats. 
 
 Streams entering Illinois river on the east, — Maco- 
 pen, Apple and Otter creeks enter Illinois between 25 
 and 30 miles from its mouth. They drain a large body 
 of excellent land, of which a description has already been 
 presented. 
 
ILLINOIS. 
 
 151 
 
 )f the 
 
 •f the 
 
 iAesof 
 to its 
 
 B wes»- 
 
 eWa- 
 
 Crook- 
 Shoal 
 
 lU well 
 
 jek, the 
 
 BS from 
 
 Ihe dis- 
 
 n ; and 
 
 endered 
 
 isurvey- 
 uated on 
 .merican 
 ,r, oppo- 
 \\xr wiles 
 Lve from 
 lut 160 
 tream is 
 ;0 mileB 
 
 Idistance 
 
 10 
 
 -Maco- 
 reen 25 
 
 56 body 
 idy been 
 
 Chariton creek empties abut SO miles above Otter 
 creek, intersecting a good tract of country. 
 
 The Sangamo is about 75 miles above, which we have 
 before described. 
 
 Little Michiiimakinac discharges its waters about 200 
 miles from the Mississippi. The lands through which 
 this stream meanders, are represented of a good quality. 
 It is navigable 90 miles and branches out into several 
 forks which are interwoven with some of the head waters 
 of the Kaskaskia. 
 
 Crow-meadow river heads in the knobs near the head 
 waters of the Vermillion (of the Wabash) — its course 
 north west— 20 yards wide at its mouth, and navigable 
 15 miles. 
 
 Peoria Lake, 210 miles from the confluence of the Illi- 
 nois with the Mississippi, is merely an expansion of the 
 former ; being from one to three miles wide, and 20 miles 
 long— has no rocky shoals nor perceivable current. Its 
 waters abound in fish. 
 
 About the centre, on the east side, terminates that 
 range of bluff which borders the eastern margin of the 
 American bottom, and extends in one continued ridge, 
 to this spot. 
 
 Appearances justify a belief, that lake Michigan, at an 
 early period, found an outlet into the Illinois, through 
 which the great lake waters made their passage ; there 
 being evident water-worn traces on the banks of the Illi- 
 nois, which indicate that it formerly was the channel of 
 far more abundant waters ; and on the borders of the 
 lakes, that the surface of their waters were once several 
 feet higlier. 
 
 Vermillion is a small stream which joins the Illinois 
 ibottt 260 miles from its mouth. 
 
153 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 'JTlie fCankaiikee forms a juqction with tlie Illinois, 
 about 270 miles from its confluence with the Mississippi. 
 It is a stream of considerable extent, and has several 
 branches. It is believed it might easily be made to com- 
 municate with- the St. Joseph or the Maumee, which emp- 
 ty into lake Erie. 
 
 The Rock rilvr discharges its waters into the Missis- 
 sippi 315 miles from the mouth of the Illinois. This is a 
 beautiful river, and is navigable 300 miles. It rises near 
 Green Bay — flows through a country of good land, 
 where valuable lead mines are found. 
 
 The following streams flow into the Illinois on the 
 west side, from the Bounty Lands : 
 
 J\riCee*s creek flows through a broken, hilly country, 
 and enters the Illinois about 70 miles up. 
 
 Crooked creek, navigaWe 30 miles, of a smooth cur- 
 rent ; in its winding course, more than 100 miles long 
 —has some good bottom. The lands bordering on its 
 bank are generally broken, but well timbered, and the 
 soil second rate : its tributaries aiford good mill -seats. 
 Coal, iron ore, and fine free-stone, abound in th? banks. 
 It joins the Illinois about 15 miles ^ove M'Kec's creek. 
 
 Spoon River empties about 30 miles above the base 
 line in the Bounty Lands, meanders in a southwardly 
 course, more than 120 miles, and is navigable nearly 50 
 miles. The bordering laoids are of various qualities — 
 some good bottoms, but the surface generally broken. 
 This river and its tributary streams are well supplied 
 with mill-seats, iron ore, coal, and salt springs. 
 
 Sdckfvpooy or Redbud, discharges its waters about six 
 miles below Fort Clark, which stands on the south-west 
 tide of lake Peoria. This stream is crooked, and is ram- 
 ified into many branches* and intersects a beautifiil tract 
 of most excellent lands. At Fort Clark> which is a de- 
 
ILLINOIS, 
 
 153 
 
 1019, 
 
 ipVi. 
 reral 
 
 emp- 
 
 jssis- 
 isisa 
 } Dear 
 lanil, 
 
 )n 
 
 the 
 
 juntry, 
 
 th cm'- 
 
 es Ion? 
 on its 
 
 ,nd the 
 
 [1 -seats, 
 banks, 
 creek. 
 
 :he base 
 iwardly 
 arly 50 
 lUties— 
 broken. 
 lUppUed 
 
 t>out six 
 tith-west 
 
 IB raift- 
 Ifiil tract 
 
 is a de- 
 
 lightful site for a town, a garrison is established, where a 
 company of United States soldiers are stationed. No 
 considerable streams flow into the west side of the Illir 
 nois, above this place. 
 
 Henderson river, the only considerable stream which 
 fiows from the Bounty Lands into the Mississippi, is 
 about 60 miles long, navigable nearly 20 miles, and has 
 numerous tributaries which branch out to a great extent, 
 and drain a spacious tract of good land. This stream 
 pours its waters into the Mississippi, about 240 miles 
 above St. Louis. 
 
 The agricultural productions of this state are ncaily the 
 »ame with those of Indiana and Ohi«: Stock of all kinds 
 are more easily raised by new settlers, from the greater 
 abundance of Praira gras«. Indian corn, wheat, rye, bar- 
 ley, oats, buckwheat, and various kinds of fruits and 
 garden vegetables flourish. 
 
 Counties, chief towns and population in 1818, the year 
 in which Illinois was erected into a state : 
 
 Counties, 
 
 Population, 
 
 Chief f oi(;ws. 
 
 Bond 
 
 1,322 
 
 Perrysville 
 
 Crawford 
 
 2,074 
 
 Palestine 
 
 Edwards 
 
 1,948 
 
 Palmyra 
 
 Franklin 
 
 700 
 
 
 Gallatin 
 
 3,256 
 
 Shawneetown 
 
 Jackson 
 
 1,294 
 
 Brownsville 
 
 Madison 
 
 5,456 
 
 Edwardsville 
 
 Monroe 
 
 l,'i58 
 
 Harrisonville 
 
 Pope 
 
 . 1975 
 
 Golconda 
 
 Randolph 
 
 2,939 
 
 Kaskaskia 
 
 St. Clair 
 
 4,516 
 
 Belleville 
 
 Union 
 
 2,482 
 
 
 Washington 
 
 1,707 
 
 
 White 
 
 3,639 
 
 Carmi 
 
EiiiliMiwiiTwhw 
 
 154 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 Another enumeration having been taken a few months 
 after, the amount of population returned was 40,156; 
 which exceeded the number entitling the territory to be- 
 come a state. 
 
 Belkmlle, the county seat for St. Clair, lies in the cen- 
 tre of the Turkey Hill settlement, 4 miles east of th« 
 bluffbordering the American Bottom, six miles from Sil- 
 ver creek, and 18 south-east of St. Louis. This is a 
 flourishing new town, surrounded by a body of excellent 
 lands. In the same county is Kahokia, containing about 
 500 inhabitants, chiefly French. 
 
 Kaskaskia^ the county seat for Randolph, at present 
 occupied as the metropolis of the state, stands on tlie 
 west bank of the river Kaskaskia, 11 miles from its 
 mouth, and six miles from the Mississippi. This town 
 was settled by the French, before the founding of the 
 city of Philadelphia, and once contained more than 7000 
 inhabitants: at present there are not more than 160 
 houses. After it fell into the jurisdiction of the British, 
 many of the inhabitants removed to Genevieve. Placed 
 near the mouth of a river extensively navigable, and in 
 the vicinity of some of the richest lands of tlie wrestern | 
 country, connected with a convenient position for com* 
 merce, this place assumes that degree of importance! 
 w^hich must eventually attract wealth and numbers. Iti 
 has a good harbor for boats, contains a land ofiice, \\ 
 printing-oflice, and a bank, and is now in a flourishiDg| 
 condition. 
 
 Praira du Mocker, 12 miles from Kaskaskia, is i\ 
 French village in the American Bottom ; the inhabitanti| 
 subsisting by agriculture. 
 
 •America, 8 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, has 
 elevation of a few feet above the highest waters. TM 
 
\ontl)S 
 0,156; 
 to be- 
 
 Lhe cen- 
 t of th« 
 rom Sil- 
 rhis is a 
 excellent 
 ing about 
 
 ,t present 
 
 Is on tl\c 
 
 \ from its 
 
 rhis town 
 
 ling of the 
 
 thanTOOO 
 
 than 160 
 
 he Britisli, 
 
 •e. Placed 
 ble, and in 
 he western] 
 )n for cow- 
 importance I 
 umbers. ^ 
 
 ,nd office, \\ 
 flourishinJ 
 
 Laskia, is M 
 inhabitants! 
 
 |ohio,ha8i 
 
 LLLINOIS. 
 
 155 
 
 [aters. 
 
 Tb 
 
 situation is plearant, and the town laid out on a liberal 
 plan : the streets being at right angles, the one fronting 
 the river is 100 feet wide, and the two which cross each 
 (♦tlier at the centre, of the same width ; and the other 
 streets G6 feet. The proprietors have reserved 40 do- 
 nation lots for mechanics, who may settle and improve 
 them. It is projected to unite the Ohio with the Missis- 
 sippi, at this place, by a canal ; and the proprietors are 
 incorporated for that purpose with a capital of §1,000,000 
 accompanied with the privilege of a banking establirih- 
 ment. 
 
 Wilkinsonvillet in a beautifiil bend of the Ohio, was 
 formerly a military post, under the command of general 
 Wilkinson. No vestiges now remain of a town at this 
 place ; and it has lately been entered as vacant land,.-by 
 an individual. 
 
 Golconday the seat of justice for Pope county, is plea- 
 santly situated on the bank of the Ohio,bclow the mouth 
 of Lush creek. The town is in a fiourishinj»; condition 
 and bids fair to become a place of considerable import- 
 ance. 
 
 8hawneetown, 8 miles below the Wabash on the Ohio, 
 is subject to inundation by high waters. It is the place 
 where courts of justice are held for Gallatin county. It 
 contains a bank, called tlie Great Bank of IllinoiSt with 
 a capital of 82,000,000, and a land-office for the district. 
 
 Carmty the seat of justice for White county, stands, 
 
 surrounded by lands of the first quality, on the west 
 
 bank of the Little Wabash, 50 miles from its mouth, and 
 
 35 from Shawneetown. 
 Palmyra, the county seat of Edwards, is three. miles 
 
 above the mouth of White river. 
 
 Palestim is the capital town of Crawford county, 
 
156 
 
 ILLINOIS. 
 
 which is situated on the Wabash, above the river Em- 
 barras. Many otlier towns have been recently com- 
 menceil, under reasonable prospects of becoming flour- 
 ishing places for business. Several other to'.vns have 
 been described with tlie lands that surround them. 
 
 The state of Illinois is supposed to be covered by a 
 larger proportion of rich soil than any state in the Union. 
 But it is not to be disguised, that much of the best of it 
 is inundated by high waters, and that large tracts are 
 rendered very insalubrious from the pestilential exhala- 
 tions proceeding from stagnant waters. Other portions 
 are rendered not eligible for settlements, on account of 
 bad water, or the great scarcity of that useful element. 
 The facilities of transporting the natural produce of this 
 state, and of obtaining foreign articles of necessity, are 
 wonderful, there being not less than 3,100 miles of navi- 
 gable water surrounding and intersecting the large ex- 
 tent of territory which constitutes the state. 
 
r Eni- 
 ' com- 
 
 I flour- 
 
 i. 
 
 id by a 
 Union. 
 ;st of it 
 acts are 
 exhala- 
 portions 
 ;count of 
 element. 
 :e of this 
 ssity. are 
 J of navi- 
 large ex- 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 Tennessee is boumled north by Kentucky andpart of 
 Virginia; east by North Carolina; south by Georgia, 
 Alabama and the state of Mississippi ; and west by the 
 river Mississippi; between 4° 4' and 14° 15' west lon- 
 gitude, and 35° and 36° north latitude : 420 miles long 
 and 102 broad, containing 40,000 square miles. 
 
 This state was separated from North Carolina and 
 erected into a territorial government in 1790. In 1796 
 it was admitted into the political Union, anc' organized 
 as one of the United states. 
 
 In 1791, the population was 35,695 : in 180C, 105,602; 
 in 1810, 261,727, of whom 45,535 were slaves, and 1,317 
 free blacks. The militia, in 1812, numbered 2'j,19S. 
 
 Face of the country , soilt Sfc. — The surface of Ten- 
 nessee presents bold features. The Mississippi laves 
 the western boundary, and the Tennessee anvl Cumber- 
 land, after winding their serpentine courses over a great 
 extent of surface, pour their waters witliin 11 miles dis- 
 
158 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 fance from each other, into the Ohio, not far from itn 
 coriHuence \vitli the Mississippi. The Cumberland 
 inoiiiitains intersect the state obliquely, and divide it 
 into une(|ual parts, called East and West Tennessee.— 
 The eastern section of the state contains what may be 
 considered the nndcns of tl»e Alleganies. The moun- 
 tains here, though less elevated, are broade'' and more 
 gently inclined to the west, than in the other parts of 
 tl»e state. The western section exhibits a surface partly 
 waving and partly level ; the middle is broken into hills, 
 and much of tl»e eastern is occupied by mountains ; of 
 which, many are elevated to a great height, attbrding 
 prospects romantic, picturesque and grand. The great 
 liaurel Ridge and Cumberland, are among the moat re- 
 markable. Stone, Yellow, Iron, Bald and Unaka, are 
 connected in one continuous chain — bearing a direction 
 northeast and southwest, and forming the eastern boun- 
 dary of the state. To the northeast are Bayes, Copper 
 Ridge, and Clinch mounlains, Powell's and Welling's 
 Ridge, all separated each from the other, by v allies from 
 four to sixteen miles wide. The last four terminating 
 north of Tennessee river. All these mountains are sur- 
 rounded by vallies, which afford good passages for run- 
 ning waters and roads. This variegated scenery of hill 
 and dale, dry, barren heights, rugged, lofty cliffs, and 
 smooth, fruitful valleys, finely irrigated by the serpertijne 
 rivulets, formed from the cold mountain springs, descend- 
 ing, as they unite in cascades, over the rocks, present 
 views, at once beautiful, romantic and sublime. Three- 
 fourths of the entire surface of this state is supposed to 
 consist of mountains and hills. The vallies and river 
 bottoms are exceedingly fertile ; but the summits of the 
 mountains, tliough sometimes extensively level, as is the 
 
in its 
 
 1*1 and 
 
 itie it 
 
 lee. — 
 
 lay be 
 
 inoun- 
 more 
 
 irts ol" 
 
 partly 
 
 [) hills, 
 
 lis ; of 
 
 fording 
 
 e ^reat 
 
 loat re- 
 
 ika, are 
 
 irection 
 
 I boun- 
 
 Coppcr 
 
 elling's 
 
 is from 
 
 linating 
 
 are sur- 
 er rari- 
 of hill 
 ffs, and 
 peniine 
 
 lescend- 
 present 
 Three- 
 ^osed to 
 Id river 
 IS of the 
 iS is the 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 159 
 
 Cumberland, over which public roads cross, nheic are 
 considerable settlements, are covered with an inditter- 
 ent soil; which, however, is productive of clover, the small 
 grains, and of fruits. The mountain.^ generally incline to 
 the west, and disappear some distance east of the Missis- 
 sippi and the hills are generally depressed as tJiey ap- 
 proach the Ohio. The great variety of surface produces 
 a variety of s»oil. In the western parts, the soil is black 
 and rich. In the middle are extensive tracts of good 
 lands. The eastern is variegated with mountains, 
 covered with rocks, or a thin soil ; and beautiful vallies, 
 cciuMstingof most excellent lands. 
 
 From so many concurrent causes varying the temper- 
 ature of climate, the same latitude from east to west ap- 
 pears as much varied in the temperature of heat, as an 
 equal distance from north to south on the same meridian. 
 The state of Tennessee may be considered as presenting a 
 medium, between the extfemes of heat and cold in the 
 noru crn and southern regions of the United Staiv..4.— 
 The climate is generally healthy, particularly in East 
 Tennessee, whefe the summer heat is so moderated by 
 the current of mountain air, continually moving from 
 the west, and the refreshing breezes from the Mexican 
 Gulf, on the south, that this part of the state possesses 
 one of the most salubrious and desirable climates on the 
 continent. A Tennessee winter is not an unapt resem- 
 blance to a New-England spring. It is very seldom, ex- 
 cept on the high mountains, that snow falls to the depth 
 of six inches, nor does it continue lon-j-er than six or eiirht 
 days. From the first settlement of the country, Cum- 
 berland has not been frozen over more than two or three 
 times. The winters are generally so mild that cattle 
 require no shelter. 
 
mifmmmm 
 
 mm 
 
 mmmm 
 
 160 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 61? 
 
 As our object is not to describe Elysian fields, nor 
 Utopian regions, but to instruct our readers in simple 
 geographical facts, so far as we can distinctly ascertain 
 them, we feel it our duty to charge emigrants from tlu' 
 north to beware how they seat themselves down \wv' 
 manently on low lands, however rich, that are shaded by 
 thick forest trees, especially near stagnant waters. Ot 
 this description arc considerable tracts of fertile lami 
 in the state of Tennessee, where new settlers have se- 
 verely sufllered fi orn agues and billious fevers. AfWi 
 #uth lands are disburthened of tlie fo'est trees and sufli- 
 ciently exposed to the sun, the causes, proceeding from 
 decayed vegetables, neither dry nor decomposed, which 
 engender mortal disease, are removed ; then the vigor- 
 ous, hardy cultivator from the north, may safely erect 
 his cabbin and pursue hb usual labors. 
 
 The largest portion of the state is bedded on lime- 
 stone. Caves of great extent and depth, may be found 
 within this calcareous region : from whence large quan- 
 tities of sal c petre are taken ; which forms one of the 
 staples of i '' mmerce. • 
 
 For the gratification o*'the curious, we will state some 
 remarkable traces of animals, such as th6 distinct im- 
 pression of tlip feet of wiew, horses, hears, and turkeys, 
 on solid , ck ; winch, from the earliest knowl<Mlge of 
 tlic c<Mintry, have been as clearly distinguishable as 
 thougli made in snow or sand, on the summits of wliat 
 are called the Enchanted Cumberland Mountains. To 
 the philosophical naturalist, e leare the investigation 
 of these wonderful phenomena. 
 
 Spacious strata of Gypsum have lately been discover- 
 ei\ ; copperas, allum, lead, some silver, coal, and several 
 
TENNESSEE. 
 
 161 
 
 
 niiheral springs, are found in divers places within the 
 state. Salt and iron are also prcjduced in East and 
 West Tennessee ; in both of which, iron works have 
 been put in operation. 
 
 Forest trees of an extraordinary size, and of almost 
 every species that grow in the west, are abundant : as 
 also great quantities of large cane. There are many 
 herbaceous plants possessing medical virtues j such as 
 snake root, ginseng, anise, spikenard. 
 
 F:<»h and wild game abound in the waters and woods 
 of Tennessee. 
 
 To speak in the language of geologists, excepting the 
 alluvial margins of rivers and a small portion of East 
 Tennessee, which is transition^ the whole geological for- 
 mation of the state is secondary. 
 
 Of the agricultural productions of Tennessee, the vari- 
 ety is as great; perhaps, as any one of tiie United States. 
 Maize, wheat, rye, oats, barley, buckwiieat, hemp, flax, 
 cotton, tobacco, and almost every species of fruit trees 
 within the Tnitcd States, flourish here. Cotton and to- 
 bacco are the principal staples for exportation ; of which 
 great quantities are sent to Orleans market, yearly.— 
 Agriculture is the chief employment for most of the in- 
 habitants of this state ; and the rivers Tennessee and 
 Cumberland are the principal medium for transporting 
 the country produce to the Ohio. The navigable waters 
 of the Tomigbee, have been supposed capable of turnish- 
 ing a more conv»,aient outlet to the ocean, for several 
 parts of the state. 
 
 The western part, between Tennessee and the Missis- 
 t ippi, lately belonged to the Chickasriw Indians ; and 
 a large district to the southeast, to the Cherckee tribe. 
 
 o2 
 
mmmmmm 
 
 162 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 First settlements. — Tennessee was originally a part 
 of North Carolina. About the commencement of the 
 revolutionary war, several families without authority 
 from any government, commenced an establishment in 
 East Tei nessee, and remained unnoticed, until they dis- 
 tinguished themselves in bravely repelling the hostile 
 incursions of the savages, on the frontiers. Thus, acci- 
 dentally, were congregated, a body of hardy backwoods- 
 men, armed in self-defence ; and by protecting their own 
 possessions from the dreadful -fury of savage warfare, 
 opposed a barrier trt the inroads of the barbarous enemy, 
 on the frontiers of South Carolina, North Carolina and 
 Virginia. 
 
 Before we treat of the rivers, we will add a few words 
 respecting the Muscle-shoals. They are an expansion 
 of the river Tennessee, about 250 miles from its mouth, 
 and nearly the same distance from the TFhirl or Suck; 
 where the river branches through tlie Great Ridge, or 
 Cumberland Mountains. The expansion extends about 
 25 miles ; is from two to three miles wide, and receives 
 its name from the number of soft shell turtles and fresh 
 water clams found here. 
 
 Rivers ivithin the state. — Tennessee and Cumberland 
 arc the principal ; a descrip ion of which may be found 
 in our preliminary remarks. 
 
 Tfie Ilolston rises in Virginia, and runiiing southwest, 
 joins the Tennessee 22 miles below Knoxville ; is about 
 200 miles long, and navigable for boats of 25 tons burden, 
 100 miles. 
 
 21ie Clinch rises in Virginia, and flowing southwest, 
 joins the Tennessee, 30 miles west of the Holston j be- 
 ing about 200 miles in length. 
 
lfV"lU 
 
 llWHIpLliUn 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 163 
 
 Duck river h?*s its head waters in the southeast part 
 of the state, and flows into the Tennessee about 80 miles 
 west of Nashville. It is navigable for about 90 miles. 
 
 Elk River derives its source from Cumberland moun- 
 tains ; is 155 miles long, and empties itself into the 
 Tennessee, near Miiscle-shoals, There are many orher 
 streams of less note, which flow either into the Cum- 
 berland, Tennessee, or the Mississippi. The two for- 
 mer streams traverse i\\e state in so wide a range, put- 
 ting out into so many branches, that it is said, there is 
 rarely a spot 20 miles distant from navigable waters 
 witliin the state. 
 
 The counties, population (as by the census of 1810) 
 and chief towns, appear in the following columns. 
 • EAST TENNESSEE. 
 Counties, Population. Chief Towns, 
 
 Anderson 3,959 Clinton 
 
 8,839 Pikeville 
 
 3,259 Maryville 
 
 2,6G8 Jacksonburg 
 
 4,190 Elizabethtown 
 
 4,798 Tazewell 
 
 5,154 Newport 
 
 6,397 Rutledge 
 
 7,643 Kogersville 
 
 9,713 Greenville 
 
 7,309 Dandridge 
 
 10,171 Knoxville 
 
 2,504 Washington 
 
 5,581 Kingston 
 
 4,595 Seviervilie 
 
 6,847 Blountsville 
 
 7,740 Jonesborough 
 
 ;e, or ■ 
 
 Bledsoe 
 
 about ■ 
 
 Blount 
 
 reives ■ 
 
 Campbell 
 
 fresh 1 
 
 Carter 
 
 
 Claiborne 
 
 u'land 1 
 
 Coke 
 
 found 1 
 
 Granger 
 
 
 Hawkins 
 
 liwcst, ■ 
 
 Green 
 
 about I 
 
 Jefferson 
 
 urdeu, 1 
 
 Knox 
 
 
 Rhea 
 
 hwest, 1 
 
 Uoane 
 
 n ; be- 1 
 
 Sevier 
 
 
 Sullivan 
 
 
 Washington 
 
« ii*WP I — — "■^■WBIppPiUpiH 
 
 164 '^ 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 WEST TENNESSER. 
 
 Bedford 
 
 8,242 
 
 Shelbyville 
 
 Davidson 
 
 15,608 
 
 Nashville 
 
 Dickson 
 
 4,516 
 
 Charfotte 
 
 Franklin 
 
 5,730 
 
 ■ Winchester 
 
 Giles 
 
 4,536 
 
 Pulaski 
 
 Hickman 
 
 2,583 
 
 Vernon 
 
 Humphries 
 
 1,511 
 
 Reynoldsburg 
 
 * Jackson 
 
 - 5.401 
 
 Williamsburg 
 
 Lincoln 
 
 6,104 
 
 Fayetteville 
 
 Montgomery 
 
 8,C21 
 
 Clarkesville 
 
 j Maury 
 
 10,359 
 
 Columbia 
 
 Overton 
 
 5,643 ' 
 
 Monroe 
 
 Robertson 
 
 7,270 
 
 . Springfield 
 
 Rutherford 
 
 10,265 
 
 Murfrcesborough 
 
 Sumner 
 
 13,792 
 
 Gallatin 
 
 Smith 
 
 11,649 
 
 Carthage 
 
 ! Stuart 
 
 4,262 
 
 Dover 
 
 Wilson 
 
 11,952 
 
 • 
 
 Lebanon 
 
 Williamson 
 
 13,153 
 
 Franklin 
 
 White 
 
 4,028 
 
 Sparta 
 
 Warren 
 
 5,725 
 
 M'Minville 
 
 I Murfreeshorougk, in West Tennessee, is the ip.ctropo- 
 
 !is, where the Legislat 
 
 ure meet. It is 32 miles south east 
 
 from Nashville, 160 west of Knoxville, 708 from the city 
 
 of Washington, in longitude 9** 35 
 
 ' west, latitude 35° 53' 
 
 north. In 1818, there 
 
 were 1100 inhabitants. The town 
 
 contains a courthouse 
 
 , jail, a market house, a branch of 
 
 the Nashville bank, an 
 
 academy. 
 
 a printing office, from 
 
 which a weekly newspaper issues. 
 
 and about 200 houses, 
 
 built mostly of brick. 
 
 The public 
 
 edifices are also brici-, 
 
 and exhibit a neat style 
 
 1. The town 
 
 was commenced about 
 
 the year 1812, but was 
 
 not established as the seat of gov- 
 
TENNESSEE. 
 
 465 
 
 ernment till 1817. It is now one of the most flourishing 
 towns in the state. The situation is healthy, being a plea- 
 sant eminence, descending in every direction, and r^com- 
 modated with springs of pure vvater ; and within the dis- 
 tance of 2^ miles are two mineral springs, the waters of 
 which have proved salutary in several complaints. In the 
 vicinity are valuable mills. The country surrounding the 
 metropolis of the state, consists of an extensive tract of 
 most excellent land, abundantly productive of corn, 
 wheat, cotton, tobacco, various kinds of fruits, and En-r 
 giish grasses. The surface is nearly level, for an extent 
 of more than twenty miles square. New-Orleans fur- 
 nishes the market for the produce of this section of the 
 country. From Murfreesborough to Nashville, is an 
 excellent road ; and steam boats ply from that place to 
 the Mexican Gulf. 
 
 JSTashville, in West Tennessee, 110 miles north of 
 Iluntsville, 190 west of Knoxville, 250 southwest of 
 Lexington, 430 northeast by north of Natchez, is plea- 
 santly situated on the south bank of the Cumberland. — 
 The population in 1^ 1 8 was between 3000 and 4000. This 
 town lies in 10° 6' west long, and 35° 45' north lat. It 
 is regularly laid out, and contains a court house, jail, 
 market house, two banks, a young ladies' academy, a 
 public library of 1200 volumes, a cotton and woolen fac- 
 tory, a ropewalk, two distilleries, and three places for 
 public worship— one Presbyterian, one Methodist, and 
 one Baptist. This is a thriving, wealthy town, the lar- 
 gest in the state ; stands in a fertile populous part of the 
 country, and carries on a flourishing trade. The Cum- 
 berland is np v;;rable from the Ohio to thip place, for ves- 
 sels of 40 * i burden, nine months in the year, and du- 
 ring the 8':u8ons of high water, fpr ships of 4 or 500 tons. 
 
wmm 
 
 ww^tm 
 
 166 
 
 TENNESSEE. 
 
 Nashville is distant from New-Orleans in the present 
 route by Natchez, 586 miles — but a new road is opening 
 by Madisonville, shortening the distance to 480. (Cum- 
 berland College, in Nashville, although incoi-porated in 
 1806, and accoinmodated with an edifice 90 feet long 
 and three stories high, has not yet gone into operation : a 
 grammar school is kept in the building. 
 
 Knoxvillpi in Bast Tennessee, in tlie county of Knox, 
 lies on the Holston, 22 miles above its junction with the 
 .Tennessee, 190 miles east of Nashville, and the same dis- 
 tance south ©f Lexington. The town occupies a pleasant 
 situation. It contains a court house, jail, a state bank, 
 an academy, barracks sufficient to accommodate 700 
 men, two printing offices, each of which issue a weekly 
 newspaper, and three places for public worship — one for 
 Presbyterians, one for Baptists, and one for Methodists. 
 It is the most considerable town in East Tennessee, and 
 formerly was. the seat of the state government. Hamp- 
 ilen Sydney Academy, is a respectable seminary. A 
 College has been established, but has not yet been put 
 into operation. 
 
 The other towns of most note, which are Franklin, 
 Fayetteville, Shelhyvilley Columbia^ Clarkesvillet Car- 
 thage and Gallatin in West Tennessee, and Jonesho- 
 Tfiugh, Greenville and Rogersville in East Tennessee, 
 we shall not attempt to describe, for want of sufficient 
 information. 
 
mm 
 
 wmF 
 
 panpiF 
 
 mPHipilM l'«l|illll^ 
 
 escnt 
 
 tvum- 
 
 ed in 
 
 long 
 
 MISSISSIPPI 
 
 Was erected into a state in the year 1817. Accord- 
 ing to the act of Congress, it is bounded as follows : be- 
 j^inning on the Mississippi river, where the southern 
 boundary line of the state of Tennessee strikes the same; 
 thence east along the said bour/lary line to the Tennes- 
 see river ; thence up the same to the mouth of Bear 
 creek ; tlicnce by a direct line to the northwest corner 
 of the county of Washington ; thence due south to the 
 Gulf of Mexico ; thence westwardly, including all tlie 
 islands within six leagues of the shore, to tlie most eastern 
 junction of Pearl river, with lake Borgne ; thence up 
 said river to north latitude 31° ; tlience west, along said 
 degree of latitude to the Mississippi ; thence up the same 
 to the beginning. 
 
 It is situated between 30° and 35° north lat. and 8" 
 and 14° west long. Lengtii nearly 340 miles, breadth 
 about 150 ; containing 28,000,000 acres. 
 
 Rivers. — The Mississippi forms a western boundary 
 to the state, to an extent of nearly 700 miles by the me- 
 anderings of the river ; in a direct line only about 280. 
 The east bank of the Mississippi is rendered less con- 
 venient for settlements, than the west, by the great 
 extent of inundated lands on its margin, which are spa- 
 cious. A number of hills approach near to the river, and 
 form bluffs ; as at the Walnut Hills, Grand and Petite 
 Gulfs, Natchez, White CUfls, and Loftus* Heightsv— 
 
mmmmmmmmmmm^ 
 
 168 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 Tliese lieiglits are extended in nearly a direct line, while 
 the river is extremely serpentine. 
 
 Most of the recent alluvions in the state, consist of 
 lands included between tiie hills and the curves in 
 this river. ** 
 
 Cypress swamps occupy the low lands between the 
 base of the hills and high banks of the river. The isl- 
 ands in the Mississippi are generally too low for culti- 
 vation, and useful only for timber. 
 
 The Yazoo rises in the Chickasaw country, near the 
 south boundary of Tennessee, interlocks with the head 
 streams of the Tomigbtfr and pursuing a course west 
 by north, flows into the Mississippi, 12 miles above the 
 Walnut Hills ; being there the boundary to the lands 
 now claimed by the Indians. The banks are subject to 
 be overflown widely. The river is navigable for a con- 
 siderable distance ; much of the course of which being 
 within the unexplored lands of the Indians, is but imper- 
 fectly known. 
 
 The Big Black river derives its source between the 
 Yazoo and Pearl rivers, and flowing nearly southwest, 
 joins the Mississippi above the Grand Gulf. Like 
 other streams between the Mississippi and the Tombig- 
 bee, the table lands drained by the head waters of the 
 Big Black, are steril pine. 
 
 Between Big Black and Homochitta rivers. Bayou 
 Pierre, Cole's creek, Fairchild's creek and St. Catha- 
 rine's creek enter the Mississippi. The general course 
 of tiie Homochitta, for about 70 miles, is southwest ; it 
 passes through a lake in its way to the Mississippi.— 
 Some of the most valuable plantations in the state are on 
 this stream. Fifteen miles up from its mouth, the banks 
 are unsettled, being anualiy overflown. 
 
MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 169 
 
 hile 
 
 it of 
 s in 
 
 1 the 
 le isl- 
 cuUi- 
 
 liujfalo creek- falls in two miles abov^ Fort Adams. 
 Iklow this creek the streams flow southwardly. A di- 
 viding ridge, commencing in the high lands, whicli gives 
 rise to Yazoo and Pearl rivers, and continuing in a soutli- 
 westwardly direction, separates the waters of the Bonge, 
 Chitto and Amite, from those of the IToniichitta and 
 Ruifalo rivers, and terminates abruptly at Loftua' 
 Heights. 
 
 Leaving the Mississippi, and proceeding eastwardlj^ 
 in latitude 31°, we reach Amite, which rises in the north- 
 eastern extremity of the county of that name, is the next 
 considerable stream in that direction. It traverses the 
 county southwardly, enters Louisiana, and unites with 
 the Iberville, 40 miles above the entrance into Lake 
 Maurepas. The country, drained by the head waters of 
 the Amite, is hilly and salubrious, has a good supply of 
 pure water, a productive soil, a pleasant scenery, and 
 convenient and desirable sites for plantations. The 
 region forming the Sources of the head waters of the 
 Hogne, Chitto and Pearl, possesses features similar in 
 m\ and surface to the tract last described. 
 
 The Pascagoula, to which Chickasaw, Leaf and Dog 
 rivers are tributaries, is a beautiful stream. It rises in 
 latitude about 33° and running parallel to the Tombigbee 
 and Mobile 250 miles, expands near the Gulf, into a 
 broad bay. Vessels drawing five feet of water, pass to 
 the junction of Leaf and Chickasaw rivers. Although 
 the lands, intersected by this river, are generally sterile, 
 a lai^e portion of its margins is of a good soil, and con- 
 venient for cultivation. The region bordering on the 
 Gulf, near the mouth of the Pascagoula, is exempt from 
 stagnant waters, is high, dry and salubrious, and is com* 
 
170 
 
 MHSISSII'PI. 
 
 Trumly ipsorfcil to as a retreat, by llie inhabitants of Or- 
 loans, tiurin!5 the sickly months. 
 
 Fnce. of the couritrif, soU, S^'c. — Tlic ridj^e of hills, 
 which c wide the state of Mississippi into two unequal 
 seclions, has before bjen describe:!. The northwest sec- 
 tion comprises all the counties of AVarren, Claiborne, 
 .Tefterson, Adams, Franklin, and the "greatest part ol" 
 Wilkinson, and one half of Amite. The southeast sec- 
 tion comprehends one half of Amite, all Pike, Marion, 
 Hancock, and Jackson counties. The two divisions are 
 distinctly marked by different climates, soils and pro- 
 ductions. The banks of the Mississippi constitute tho 
 western borders of the northwestern section. This bor- 
 der in divers places near the river, is surrounded by hills, 
 such as the Walnut Hills, Gran^ (lulf, Natchez, White 
 Cliffs and Tioftus' He'ii^hts. In other places, the IjIuA's 
 approach near the Mississippi, as at Petite Gulf, Villa 
 Ciayousa and Pine Ridjje. 
 
 The most extensive Mississippi bottom in this regior, 
 spreads below the mouth of the Yazoo, at Palmyra ; be- 
 tween Bayou Pierre and Cole's creek ; between Villa 
 Gayousa and Natchez ; and between the White Clift's 
 and Loftus' Heights. These bottoms, though occasion- 
 ally, are but rarely five miles wide ; they wouhl not 
 average more than two and a half. Their length beini; 
 supposed about 200 miles on the east bank. The entire 
 superficies of inundated lands on the river, within the 
 state, would consist of an area of 500 square miles : to I 
 which add, for the river and creek bottoms projecting | 
 into the interior, on streams which enter the Mississippi. 
 100 square miles, and the amount will be 600 square! 
 miles : an estimate, according to the opinion of Mr.j 
 Darby (whose attention to this subject entitles his ca! 
 
 hac 
 wil( 
 
 r 
 
 appr( 
 T 
 
 ifio; 
 mark 
 in 01 
 near 
 a mi.^ 
 soil, 
 (his t 
 To th 
 hy th 
 and t( 
 
MISSISSll'PI. 
 
 171 
 
 culation to great credit) sufficiently ample to embrace 
 all the inuiul.ited bottom between tlie Ya/.oo and tiio 
 soutliern boundary of the state of Mississippi. 
 
 From these bottoms, the iiills rise abruptly, though 
 not to a great height, and spread out into a waving sur- 
 face. Rarely dot s any part of the United States pre- 
 sent a soil, affording a greater diversity, tiian tliat of the 
 countrv watered bv the Ya/.oo, Hiy; lilack, llomotliilla, 
 Burtiilo, and their- numerous tiibutary streams. 'I'he 
 whole of tills extensive tract is womlerfuliy productive 
 of that most valuable vegetable, the cotton plai»t. 
 
 The timber growth on the bottoms consists principally 
 of cotton wood, black willow, boxelder. hackberr.', bitter 
 nut, liickory, sweet gum, sycamore, asli, elm. From the 
 Mississippi Bluffs, from 10 to 15 miles in extent back, 
 the soil Is composed of 1 ich loam, and thickly covered 
 with timber ; such as various species of oak and hickory, 
 willow, poplar, walnut, sassafras, sweet gum, water ash, 
 persimmon, beech, honey locust, red llowering maple, 
 hackberry, sycamore, iron wood, hornbeam, chincapin, 
 wildberry, lime tree and various kinds of elm. 
 
 The Pine Ridge, eight miles to the north of Natchez, 
 approaches the Mississippi, within one mile. 
 
 This gro\vth of pine, occupying a space not exceed- 
 ing the extent of ;20 square miles, is in this place a re- 
 ujarkable phenomenon — ^^there being no otlierjdace with- 
 in our knowledge, where a pine growth approaches so 
 near the Mississippi. The land, w Inch is excellent, bears 
 a mixture of other species of trees,'indicativeof a good 
 soil. A distance of 15 or 20 miles intervenes between 
 this tract and that on which the pine growth is abundant. 
 To the northeast and south, the pine ridge is bounded 
 by the banks of Fairchiid's and St. Catherine's creeks, 
 and to the west is the Mississippi bottom. 
 
17« 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 The undergrowth consists of various kinds of vinos 
 and Hlirubs, common wild {^rapo, muscarlino, <logwood, 
 spicewood, pawpaw, Spanish mulberry, great cane. 
 
 In |)roceedin^ from the moutiis of Pearl and Pasra- 
 ragoula rivrrs, on the Gulf coast, northwardly, towards 
 the stateof Tennessee, the first hundred miles is through 
 forests of long leafed pine, interspersed with cypress 
 swamps and open prairas ; the surface is generally level ; 
 but occasionally variegated by broad prominencies and 
 inundated marshes. The soil, though generally sandy, 
 but sometimes gravelly, is bedded on a marly clay, 
 which is supposed to contribute much to its fertility. It 
 produces a variety of fruits, such as plumbs, cherries, 
 peaches, figs, sour oranges and grapes ; also cotton, corn, 
 indigo, sugar and garden vegetables. 
 
 Further to the north, within the territory of the Choc- 
 laws, Chickasaws and Cherokees, tlie surface is elevated 
 and undulating; the soil a deep vegetable mould of ex- 
 ceeding fertility, resembling the best parts of Kentucky, 
 but more rolling and broken in surface, and more various 
 in ptoductiun. T!ic timber growth is poplar, hickory, 
 black walnut, oak, sugar maple, buckeye, elm, hackberry, 
 &c. 
 
 Part of this tract, bordering on the Tennessee river, 
 extending in length 100 miles, partly in Alabama, by the 
 Muscle-Shoals, and about 40 miles in width, north and 
 south, is considered one of the most fertile regions in 
 North America. It reaches the navigable waters both of 
 the Tennessee and Tombigbee, is plentifully supplied 
 with pure water. The climate is mild and salubrious. 
 The situation, perhaps, combines more natural conve- 
 niences and facilities for good living, to render it desir- 
 able to new settlers, than any spot in the western country. 
 
MlSftlSSIPPT. 
 
 i73 
 
 Tlic long leafed pine in a tall, stately trro, from 60 fo 
 80 i'iicU clear of limbs. This growth prevuiU from the 
 Gulf coast to the northern Choctaw luMinclary. 
 
 'I'hc country in the possession of the Choctaws am! 
 Chickasaws, abouiuls in rich pruiras ; of which the lar- 
 gest (on the route from the former to the latter tribe) i« 
 spread out to the width of nearly forty miles. 
 
 Almost the whole region, northwest of the Vazoo, be- 
 tween the Mississippi and the Tennessee, of which a 
 «;reat part belongs to the Chickasaw nation, is formed 
 into a beautiful surface, well supplied with fine water, 
 and covci'ed with a deep, rich soil. On the richest up- 
 lands, the soil is deen and durable ; it is cither of a dark 
 or an ash color. The rocks and stones arc calcareous, 
 intermixed with flint, sandstone and slate. Swamps are 
 rare, within 100 miles south of Tennessee river. The 
 cifpress galls, (so called,) the poorest species of land, 
 have, below their surface, veins of a remarkably fine 
 clay : it is delicate, white, soft and tenacious, free from 
 gritty particles, and fit for manufacturing into ware. 
 
 Topographical. — One mile below the northeast corner 
 of the state, where fort Pickering formerly stood, is the 
 bank, which is called the fourth Chickasaw Bluffii, from 
 Co to 100 feet high, of an irregular form, sloping in some 
 parts, in others perpendicular. Here arc about a dozen 
 dwelling houses, on an elevated airy situation, wliich 
 would afford a pleasant site for a town. The adjacent 
 country is covered by a lich soil, suitable for the cultiva-« 
 tion of cotton. The Chickasaws own the land, excepting 
 a imidl tract near where the garrison was j a few miles 
 eastward from which, they now occupy a considerable 
 town, and are not disposed to relinquish their title. This 
 bluff presents a front of 10 miles along the river, parti/ 
 
 p8 
 
mm 
 
 174 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 in the state of Tennessee From this place to tlic mouth 
 of the Yaz.00, there are bu*. a few scattering setdenieritrt. 
 
 About latitude 54° north is the limil, northwardly, to 
 the ran}>e traversed by allij^ators. Here the veg(;tahle 
 kinji'dom assumes a more stately, diversified a!id brilliant 
 appearance. The splendid magnolia and the lolty cy- 
 press, unknown to the hiid«lle states, stand preeminent 
 above tlie other trees of the forest, and the cane aiul cot- 
 ton plants exhibit a more vigorous growtli and vivid co- 
 lor — the impcivious cane brakes overspivad the giound, 
 and tlie Spanish beard is suspended in festoons Irom the 
 branches of trees. 
 
 Ten miles below tlie Yazoo river, commence tlie Wal- 
 nut hills; die surface presenting a pleasant undulatinii 
 scenery and a rich soil. Here the ruins of fort M'He.i- 
 ry appear ; near which are several fine, spacious cotton 
 plantations. 
 
 The settlement of Palmyra ts occupied by New-Eng- 
 land en>igrants, 25 miles below the Walnut hills. 
 
 Twenty-seven nules below this place, the IVig Black 
 river joins the Mississippi. From the mouth of tlie for- 
 mer riv< r, tlie settlements are extended 40 miles up ; 
 /here bilious complaints, proceeding from the stagnation 
 of the waters, caused by the back current of the Missis- 
 sippi, ])rcvail. Tv\() miles below is the Grand Gulf, 
 which though it inspires inexjjerienced boatmen with ter- 
 lor, is slightly regatded by »dd coasters. The mouth of 
 bayou Pierre appeals ten miles below. The health of 
 the borderiijfi; settlements, is much exposed, b^ the con- 
 finement of the waters in this stream, from t!ie pressure 
 of the Mississippi floods. 
 
 In this region the wotuls are enlivened by various spe- 
 cies of birds. The pigeons, iu certain seasons, are so 
 
MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 175 
 
 plpntiful as to darken the air, in a manner, by their ex- 
 tensive flocks. Parotiuets and wild turkeys are abun- 
 dant; and in winter the water fowls are numerous. 
 
 Port Gibson lies about SO miles up tlie Pierre. It is 
 the principal town of Claiborne county, and contains 
 about 00 houses and a flourishing academy. 
 
 Jhuutshuv;^, containing four or live houses, is two 
 miles from Bayou Pierre. 
 
 GreenviUp, the capital of Jefterson coui+y, is 1.) miles 
 from the Mississippi, pleasantly situated on a dry, sandy 
 plain, by the middle branch of Coles' creek. It contains 
 about 70 houses, a court house, post office and several 
 stores, and is surrounded by a fertile, well culiivated 
 country. 
 
 JS'atchez, in the county of Adams, is situated on the 
 Mississippi, 3tl\ miles from New -Orleans. It is the niost 
 populous and commercial town in the state. In 1810, 
 it containH<] 1511 inhabitants; at present, 1819, about 
 TiOOO. The town stands upon a bluff", elevated 150 feet 
 about the surface of the river. An intervening hill pre- 
 wtits the river from being seen at the town, the site of 
 vliich is very uneven. It contain < a court house, jail, a 
 market Iiou^e.bank, an academy ,t wo printing oflices, from 
 each of which is issued a weekly newspaper, and two 
 houses of public worship, one Roman Catholic and one 
 Presbyterian. There are some elegant houses, but they 
 are mostly of wood, and only one story. The gardenn 
 are ornanientrd with orange trees, figs, plumbs, peaches 
 and graj)es. Sea vessels have ofteji traversed the Miv 
 sis^sippi as far as Natchez, before steam boats were in- 
 troduced. This town was ^A'ttled by the French in 1729, 
 but the first inhabitants vcre all massacred by the Nat- 
 chez tiibe of Indians ; most of whom, in their tun , wert 
 
476 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 soon afte»' attacked and destroyed in their secluded re- 
 tre.at on tlic banks of the Tensaw, by the French. 
 
 Washington is situated on St. Catharine's creek, eight 
 miles east fnnn Natchez., in Adams county. It has been 
 the seat of government for Mississippi territory fifteen 
 years. It contains a population of about 1000, and is 
 surrounded by some of the most wealthy and popuhnis 
 settlements in the state. Wasliinj^ton aft'ortis adeliglit- 
 ful an<l salubrious s'.'.mmer residence. The water is 
 excellent, and the adjacent country is aj^reeably diver- 
 sified by a gently undulating surface, where are- no stag- 
 nant waters. 
 
 T/je White T/t^s composed of white clay, and strongly 
 resembling chalk, arc o!ie mile below Cutharinc^s creek. 
 
 The Homochitta, a small beautiful river, joins the 
 Mississippi 27 miles below. It is 60 yard» wide, and 
 its branches interweave witl. tiiose of the Amite. This 
 river is at present considered as the northern boundary 
 of the sugar region. Mo*t kinds of tropical fruits flourish 
 here, such as the ^eet orange, guinea corn, potnegranate, 
 ginger and figs. 
 
 Loftiis' Heights present themselves eight miles lielow, 
 and are elevated 150 feet above the level of the Missis- 
 sippi. The line of f/pmflrcfl^loN, run by Andrew Ellicot, 
 in 1796, as a boundary betv.een the Unitetl States and 
 West Florida, is at present the dividing line between the 
 state of Mississippi and Louisiana, to Pearl river. 
 
 Monticello, on Pearl river, in Lawrence county, is tli* 
 preseit seat of government for the state of Mississippi. 
 It has recently been settled, and is situated in 51° 33' N. 
 lat.aid 13° W. long, on dry, elevated ground, where tl»e 
 site \f» pleasant and the air salubrious. 
 
"'^ 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 177 
 
 d re- 
 
 ,eiglife 
 
 1 ft con 
 a»ul is 
 
 The Miosisolp|il territor3% of which the state of Mis- 
 sissippi is the western half, contained in 1810, 40,352 
 inliabitants ; and in 1816, 75,610, of whom 30,540 were 
 >.laves. 
 
 T!^e following table presents the counties, population 
 aiwl chief towns in the state, as they stood in 181^. 
 Counties. ropulatiou. Chief Towns. 
 Adams 3,998 Natchez. 
 
 Liberty 
 Port Gibson 
 
 Amite 
 
 • 
 
 5,059 
 
 ('laiborne 
 
 3,506 
 
 Franklin 
 
 2,708 
 
 (ireenc 
 
 1 roi 
 
 1 |« 4*lri A 
 
 Hancock 
 
 1,000 
 
 Jeffeison 
 
 4,906 
 
 Lawrence 
 
 1,784 
 
 Marion 
 
 1,701 
 
 JKike 
 
 2,618 
 
 \Varrv>n 
 
 1,569 
 
 Wayne 
 
 2,084 
 
 Wilkinson 
 
 7,275 
 
 Grpenville 
 Monticcllo 
 
 Jacksonville 
 Warren 
 A\'iiiche^<ter 
 Vi'ij^dville 
 Of this popi'.hition 21,275 were slaves. 
 I'egetahlt' ^iilncliuna. — Few regions on the globe, it 
 IS (OBceivt'd, exliibit a greater variety of timber growth, 
 or of vegetaUK' productions, than the state od Mississippi. 
 Tlie country adj;icent to Natc'iez abounds in aumlwrless 
 'pecies of herbaceous plants, of which many contain 
 medicinal virtues. Cotton, tobacco, indigo, liidian corn, 
 [the Various kinds of small grain, sweet and Irish potatoes, 
 and a great variety of other vegetables, are cultivated 
 *iih success. Apples, peaches, pears, figs, pomegranates, 
 plumbs, grapes and oranges are alw> found to flourish, — 
 yh\ tliif entire surface of the state, cotton can be pro<lu- 
 IH as a staple j while almost every other plant, whicK 
 
 iy 
 
178 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 aftbrds a convonient and desirable subsistence for man, 
 grows plentifully. 
 
 We deem it not irrelevant to add a few remarks on 
 tlie subterranean basis of the country. At Loftus' heights 
 aj)|)ear, in descending the river, the last strata of stone, 
 consisting of breccia, or pudding stone, visible only when 
 the river is very low ; and is of the same species wliirh 
 forms the base of the blufts from the mouth of the Ohio 
 downwards. It consists principally of s^licious pebbles, 
 mixed with various petrifactions, and is cemented by ar- 
 gillaceous matter, strongly impregnated with iron ore: 
 waters passing over or through it, though apparently lim- 
 pid, are not reckoned salutary. It is believed l!»at this 
 species of rock forms the basis of the largest portion of 
 the lands on the Mississippi, below the Ohio. 
 
 The Cllmufe oi' i\\e state of Mississippi, witli the cx- 
 cej)tion of places on and contiguous to ovLn'flowiii:,^ 
 streams, where tlie waters become stagnant, maybe con- 
 sidered salubrious. The country, from the mouth « f tlie 
 Vaz-oo to the 3ist degree of north latitude, is most ai!- 
 vantiigeously situated : there are no stagnant pools ncr 
 marshy lauds ; and the water is excellent. Health h i\^ 
 prevale'it here as in any region of the same pivrallel ol 
 latitude. The seasons are agreeable, parti( ularly ini- 
 tumn and winter. We know of no place where the wea- 
 ther is more pleasant, from September to Aiall. The 
 undulating surface of the ground prevents the bad efl't'ci« 
 of drenching rains on the roads ; which, in tins part ol 
 tlie state, are in acc^dition which renders the travellini: 
 not inconvenient. It is rare here, that tiie traveller i- 
 long interrupted by the flooding of the streams. In the 
 northern and eastern states, there are no gcisons w!iiil! 
 correspond with the winters of Georgia, Louisiana, Ala- 
 
MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 170 
 
 bama and Mississippi ; where they aic generally very 
 11)11(1. The seasons here, when health is most precarior s 
 arc the summer and ihe early part of autumn. Every 
 climate has diseases peculiar to itself. The lieat of sum- 
 mer, particulaly in warm climates, accoinpaniefl with nox- 
 ious exhalations, produce bilious complaints, in various 
 forms ; and cold, moist climates hrinj^ on catai rh, asthma, 
 rheumatism and consumption. Hut it is remarkable, that 
 the latter complaints are rarely known south of 35° north 
 latitude. Indeed there are few states in the union, so 
 highly favored as that of Mississippi, in point of soil and 
 climate : the variety being greater in each of these, than 
 in any other state, except Georgia. Fronting exten- 
 sively on the Mississippi, tlie great highway and outlet 
 for the productions from a thousand tributary streams, 
 that intersect the country for more than twenty degrees 
 to the north, and nearly thirty from east to west, the state 
 r)f Mississippi occupies a most important position. The 
 climate being temperate, and most of the surface elevat<>d 
 and salubrious, few regions, so extensive, at!*ord greater 
 natural means for the permanent prosperity of human so- 
 ciety. 
 
 /nrfmns.— -Three tribes of Indians, the Chickasaws, 
 Cherokees, and Choctaws, reside within the state of 
 Mississippi. The nation of Chickasaws consists of about 
 5,800 ; of which, 1800 are warriors. They are the pro- 
 prietors of several millions of acres of excellent land, 
 lying between Tennessee and Mississippi rivers ; besides 
 4 reserved tracts, from one to four miles square. They 
 have always professed the strongest frien<lship for the 
 United States; and their fidelity has, on trying occa- 
 sions, prove<l unquestionable. Some of the Chickasaw 
 chiefs own many negro slaves, aud annually make sale of 
 
180 
 
 wissisjiiri'i. 
 
 hundretis of horned cattle and hoj^s. This nation occu- 
 pies Qv^ht towns, and have attained to a considerable de- 
 cree of ci\ili7,ation. 
 
 The Chcrokees arc still more numerous ; their popii- 
 lation bcinf^ f;stin\ated at 14,500 souls; of whom 4000 
 are warriors. They possess a spacious tract, situated 
 cast of lands owned by the Chickasaws, on the south side 
 of the Tennessee, am) between that river and the head 
 branches of the Tombi^bee. 
 
 Tlie Cherokees have made considerable proj^rcss in a 
 knowledge of the useful arts ; particularly in the manu- 
 facture of cotton and woollen clotli. Cotton, and indi- 
 go for dying their yarn, they raise. They possess more 
 tlian 500 looms of their own workmansliip, and have 
 learned the art of weaving skilfully. They possess up- 
 wards of 500 ploughs, which they employ in tiie cultiva- 
 tion of their lands. They own large stocks of cattle and 
 horses ; they have also many swine and some sheep, aiul 
 a plenty of poultry. 
 
 Thus supplied abundantly with the means of good liv- 
 ing, their tribes are increasing in numbers. By the 
 scliools which have been established among them, their 
 children have been taught to read and write. Their pro- 
 gress in ac(|uiring the elements of science, has fully 
 ecpialled that of the vfhites, with the same means of learn- 
 ing. Nature having endowed their persons with the most 
 complete forms, can it be doubted that tlieir Creator 
 would impart to them correspondent intellectual facul- 
 ties ? Man}-^ of the men, and all the women, have adopt- 
 e<l the modes of dress worn by the whites. Among the 
 rich are some who are diessed in costly apparel. Their 
 persons are kept remarkably clean and neat. Cherokee 
 women have been known to refuse wliite suitors for bus- 
 
MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 181 
 
 occu- 
 >lc (le- 
 
 popu- 
 
 11 4000 
 ituatc<l 
 All side 
 le head 
 
 CSS in a 
 c inanu- 
 iid iiuli- 
 89 more 
 ntl have 
 isess up- 
 cuUiva- 
 attle and 
 ecp, and 
 
 P;o(kI liv- 
 By tlie 
 , their 
 \eir pro- 
 as fully 
 oflearn- 
 the most 
 Creator 
 al facul- 
 adopt- 
 the 
 Their 
 
 m 
 
 mwnfc, 
 
 :herokee 
 for hus- 
 
 bands, because they were uncleanly in their persons. 
 Their numerous streams of pure water, aftord them faci- 
 lities for bathing, which they are in the censtant habit of 
 practising. All can swim ; a faculty which enables them 
 conveniently to cross the large streams which meander 
 through their hunting grounds. The females are protect- 
 ed with great delicacy, from all impertinent intrusions, 
 when they go in to bathe. These Indians display great 
 hospitality in their houses ; and their bravery was ad- 
 mired by those who acted with them, in the late war 
 ngainst the hostile Creeks. Nearly one half of the Che- 
 rokees are of mixed blood, by intermarriages with the 
 whites. Some of the full-blooded descendants from the 
 aborigines, have good complexions. The Cherokees 
 universally believe in one God : they call him the Great 
 Spirit : they speak of him with grrat reverence : in their 
 opinion, his attributes are goodness and powor. Their 
 language furnishes no terms, a combination of which is 
 expressive of profanity towards the Greet Spi-it. 
 
 The Choctaws are more numerous than ti;<» Cherokees. 
 They occupy the lands between the Yazoo and Tombig- 
 bee, and the parallels of 31° and 34° north. The banks 
 of the Chickasaka, Yazoo, Pascagoula and Pearl rivers, 
 are inhabited by them. They have several neat public 
 inns, for the accommodation of travellers. Much of 
 their lands are timbertd with pine ; but a considerable 
 part is rich, the surface waving, and the growth lr>.kory, 
 poplar, &c. They possess many large farms, in a good 
 state of cultivation; and several of them are employ^ad, 
 most of their time, in agricultural pursuits. In timts 
 past, they occupied 43 towns and villages, containing 
 about 12,000 souls, of which 4000 were warriors. It is 
 supposed, at present, their ti'ibe is considerably moie 
 numerous. Q 
 
r^'^'fmmwnmimtm 
 
 V »m I.I II J Jill v^m^miimmmii^imimmmitlliKli 
 
 18S 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 Animals. — Although game is not abuixlaiit, deer, bears, 
 wolves, panthers, wild cats, foxes, ground hogs and squir- 
 rels, are to be found ranging in the forests bordering on 
 the Mississippi. 
 
 The Salamander is of the size and form of tlie com- 
 mon rat, the head and teeth resembling those of a sfjuir- 
 rel, and the eye small, like the mole. This animal bur- 
 rows horizontally in the ground ; its food is supposed to 
 b^ the bark of fine roots. It is a night-walker, for it 
 roams not in the dayl Its jaws are strong, and its teeth 
 sharp, with which severe wounds are sometimes inflicted. 
 These animals have their habitations near the Gulf coast. 
 
 The Alligator is found in streams south of lat. 32°—- 
 when full grown, he is from 15 to 20 feet long, and his 
 body sometimes as large as a horse : he is armed with a 
 kind of coat of mail, composed of scales, which on the 
 back are so hard as to be almost impenetrable to a rifle 
 ball. The female deposits her eggs where she scratches 
 a hole in the dry sand, and covers them over, and here 
 ends the provident care for her young; which, after be- 
 ing hatched from the eggs by the warmth of the sun, 
 provide for themselves. The jaws of this creature are 
 very stout, and the teeth strong and irregular. Their 
 prey, if once seized on, is never suffered to escape : if 
 large, it is drowned in the w*ter ; if small, it is devoured 
 on the shore ; — they often abstain from eating the ani- 
 mals tJiey kill, until they become putrid in th:i water.— 
 Tlwy may be found basking on the shore, or on logs, 
 ^here they sleep. On the approach of rain, they make 
 A most terrifying rear, which resembles distant thunder. 
 When attacked at a distance from, water, they defend 
 themselves vigorously to the last extremity. 
 
^mm 
 
 wmm 
 
 MISSISSIPPI. 
 
 183 
 
 The Murena Siren resembles an eel in form, being 
 about two feet long. By perforating the mill-dams of 
 rice planters in the night, it does much injury in drain- 
 ing off the water. It has a tliin, tough skin, covered with 
 fine scales of a dark brown color ; a small mouth with 
 sharp teeth ; two short legs, near the head, furnished 
 each with four toes and claws, by which it penetrates 
 mud and water with facility. The parting of the male 
 IVom the female, intiuces them to expiess their discon- 
 tent, by a noise which resembles the howling of a puppy. 
 It is supposed they feed on frogs, water lizards and mud- 
 worms. 
 
 The Qouffre inhabits the pine barrens, mostly under 
 ground, except when in quest of food and water. It is 
 supposed to live on vegetable food. It wears a shell 15 
 feet long, and 12 inches wide. Its strength is so great, 
 as to enable it to carry a man standing on its back. It 
 burrows in the ground about ten feet deep. Its young 
 are brought forth in the manner of the loggerhead turtle, 
 which it resembles. It protects itself from injury by 
 closing its shell, and is rarely found a great distance 
 from its den. 
 
OffO 
 
ALABiVMA. 
 
 The state of Alabama is formed from the westeni por- 
 tion of the late Mississippi territory, and contains the 
 greater part of the valley of Mobile, and most of the 
 lands bordering on the streams which enter the bay of 
 Mobile, besides some of the lands contiguous to the Ten- 
 nessee and the Pascagoula. Alabama was incorporated 
 as a territory in 1817, and in 1819 was erected into a 
 state. The boundaries, as pt escribed by act of Congress, 
 are ?s follow : Beginning at the point, where the line 
 of the thirty-first degree of north latitude intersects the 
 Perdido river ; thence east to the western boundary line 
 of the state of Georgia ; thence along said line to the 
 southern boundary line of the state of Tennessee ; 
 thence west, along said boundary line, to the Tennessee 
 river ; thence up the same, to the mouth of Bear creek ; 
 thence by a direct line to the northwest corner of Wash- 
 ington county ; thence due south to the Gulf of Mexico ; 
 thence eastwardly, including all the islands within six 
 leagues of the shore, to the Perdido river; and thence up 
 the same to the bef'i :• ^q; : between latitude 30° 12' and 
 
 55° north : in lengt (, mo-z than 330 miles, and in breadth, 
 about 160 ; containi'.j- .bout 46,000 square miles. The 
 soil, climate and vegetable productions of this state, are 
 greatly diversified. Bordering the whole widtli od the 
 
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186 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 Tennessee, furnished with a considerable inlet from the 
 ocean, by Mobile Bay, intersected with rivers extensive- 
 ly navigable, and containing a large body of excellent 
 land, Alabama, both as it respects the objects of agri- 
 culture and commerce, presents to emigrants a local 
 position extremely eligible. 
 
 Face of the countrij, soil, Sfc. — The following geo- 
 graphical sketches, which were communicated in the 
 public newspapers, by Mr. W. Roberts, one of the pub- 
 lic surveyors, is considered a more correct account of 
 the country intersected by the Alabama, and its tributa- 
 ries, the Tallapoosa and Coosa, than any yet published. 
 The communication will therefore be given in the words 
 of that author, who drafted it chiefly from personal obser- 
 vation : 
 
 " At the present period, when the spirit of emigration 
 to the late erected territory [now state] prevails, a cor- 
 rect topographical description of any part of it, cannot 
 fail to be acceptable. 
 
 " Having been engaged, for a considerable time past, 
 in surveying public lands, in several parts of the late 
 Creek cession, the account here offered is chiefly the re- 
 sult of actual observation, aided b}^ information, derived 
 from other surveyors. 
 
 •*The Alabama is known to be the principal river, flowing 
 through this country. Its general course from its head 
 or junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa to ^ts junction 
 \vith the Tombigbee, is nearly southwest ; but in its 
 coilrse hither, it makes one remarkable bend, and two 
 others of less note. 
 
 **From the junction of Coosa and Tallapoosa rivers, to 
 the mouth of the Caliaba, a distance by land of about 
 60 miles, the river runs but a little fiuuth of west ; thence 
 
ALABAMA. 
 
 187 
 
 to the Alabama heights, or Fort Claiborne, bj land 60 
 or 70 miles, its course is but a little west of south ; 
 tlience to the junction with the Tombigbee, about 60 
 miles further, its course is nearly southwest ; from this 
 point to the Mobile, distant about 40 miles, the river runs 
 nearly south again. Fort Claiborne is at the head of 
 schooner navigation. Lirge boats ascend from thence 
 up to Fort Jackson, by the Coosa river. Tlie distance 
 to Fort Jackson, by the Tallapoosa river, is five miles 
 less than by the Coosa, and the navigation throughout 
 the winter and spring is good. In dry seasons, however, 
 there is not sufficient depth of water for Alabama boats. 
 The Coosa river has a fine, deep channel from its mouth, 
 three miles by land below Fort Jackson, up to Wetumka, 
 on the Great Shoals, five miles above the fort. Here, in 
 the present state of things, we may reckon the head of 
 navigation on this river. From the Falls, this river is 
 the Indian boundary up to the mouth of Wills creek, 120 
 miles, or thereabouts. 
 
 *' Tallapoosa is ravigable, except in dry seasons, up 
 to the Great Falls, a few miles above Tookabache, and 
 about 35 miles above Fort Jackson. From the Falls 
 ilown to Fort Jackson, the general course of the Talla- 
 poosa is nearly west. 
 
 " The waters in these rivers, particularly the Talla- 
 poosa and Alabama, are subject to remarkable periodical 
 elevations and depressions, owing entirely to this cir- 
 cumstance : Many of their tributary streams, originally 
 in, and passing through a country founded on a bed of 
 limestone, ai^ large and respectable water courses, in 
 the winter and spring ; but in the fall months, become 
 perfectly dry. In the Alabama and Coosa, however, 
 there is always sufficient depth of water for boating. 
 
188 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 "Proceeding southwardly along the boundary line, 
 from the mouth of Lime creek, and up the same towards 
 Chatahoocha, at the distance of about 40 miles from Tal- 
 lapoosa, we come to the ridge separating the waters of 
 Tallapoosa and Alabama from those of Conecuh and 
 Escambia. This ridge proceeds westwardly, in a direc- 
 tion nearly parallel with the rivers Tallapoosa and Ala- 
 bama. But bending less to the south, it approximates 
 very fast towards the river, below its bend, near the 
 mouth of Cahaba, and becoming less elevated and dis- 
 tinct, it is finally cut oif by the grand sweep of the river, 
 along the Alabama heights. 
 
 " This tract of country, bounded on the north and west 
 by the river, on the east by the boundary line, and on the 
 south by the ridge, is probably the largest body of good 
 land to be found any where within the limits of the 
 treaty, south of Tennessee river. It comprehends an 
 area of 60 townships, or about 2000 square miles, a con- 
 siderable portion of which is of tlie first quality : there 
 is but little of it that will fall below the rank of second 
 quality. About one-half of the townships, now oft'ered 
 for sale, lie in this district. 
 
 " The river cane bottom land, we suppose to be equal 
 in fertility to any on the continent, and may average in 
 width a half or three-quarters of a mile ; the river wind- 
 ing through it in a serpentine course, and leaving the 
 cane land sometimes on this side, and sometimes on that: 
 the outside of the swamp, Joining the high lands, as in 
 most rivers, is low, wet, and cut up with ponds and la- 
 goons. Next to the river swamp, and elevated above it 
 by a bluff from 10 to 15 feet in height, we enter upon an 
 extensive body of level, rich land, of fine black or cho- 
 colate colored soil. Tlie principal growth is hickory, 
 
\LABAMA. 
 
 189 
 
 black oak and post oak ; dogwood and poplar are also 
 common, but pine timber is rather scarce. This portion 
 of land is interspersed with reed marshes, out of which 
 issue constant running water, and also in many places, 
 Avith flat, wet weather ponds, holding water in winter 
 and becoming dry in summer ; after this comes in the 
 prairas. These are wide spreading plains of a level or 
 gently waving land, without timber, clothed in grass, 
 herbage and flowers, insulated by narrow skirts of rich 
 interval woodland ; and exhibiting, in the month of May 
 the most enchanting scenery imaginable. The soil is 
 generally of a fine black, rich cast, and has the appearance 
 of great fertility. Should they prove to be as productive 
 as the soil promises, they will be of great value, as the 
 expense and labor of clearing them will be saved, and 
 the soil being of such a quality as will not wash away, 
 the land must be very durable. These prairas extend 
 nearly, or quite to the ridge ; and as the country is open, 
 dry and airy, it promises to be healthy. The only ob- 
 jection to this part of the country seems to be the want 
 of water. This inconvenience, however, may probably 
 be removed, to a considerable extent, by digging wells. 
 This observation applies to most of the tract within the 
 limits mentioned, except the land immediately on the 
 river, and distant from it from one to three miles. In 
 tliis range there is an abundance of cool and pleasant 
 spring water, issuing from the bluffs and reedy heads 
 already mentioned. Several large creeks water this 
 district, which will afford good winter navigation for 
 smgll boats, of suflicient size to transport the produce 
 of the incumbent farms to the river. The principal of 
 these are the Catoma, Pinkohna, Pophlahla, and Big 
 Swamp creek, all of which afford extensive bottoms of 
 
m 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 rich cane brake, and beecli swamp. Families living on 
 and near the river, except in select places, will be subject 
 to intermittent bilious fevers; but they have hitherto ap- 
 peared to be of a mild type. 
 
 " Aftei- passing the ridge, we enter into a country of 
 very different character and features from that just no- 
 ticed. It is generally pine land, intersected with innu- 
 merable creeks, rivulets, and branches, runniig south- 
 wardly into the bay of Escambia. The head waters of 
 Conecuh, which is the principal river emptying into the 
 bay, spread out over a large extent of country. Tlie 
 creeks and branches have wide swamps, and are in gen- 
 eral, too low and wet for cultivation. They abound in 
 the finest timber, particularly white oak, of a superior 
 growth, swamp red oak, of an uncommon size and beauty, 
 beech, maple, poplar, gum and cypress. The under 
 growth is reed and cane, palmettos, rattan, grape vines 
 and china brier. These swamps afford the finest stock 
 range imaginable, particularly for hogs ; as besides the 
 immense quantity of oak and beech mast, there is a great 
 variety and plenty of ground nuts and roots, easily at- 
 tainable in the soft soil or mud of those swamps. 
 
 " On the margins of the creeks there are generally 
 found stnps of good land, from a quarter io half a mile 
 wide. In places it is very rich, bearing oak, hickory, ash, 
 and sometimes walnut trees. 
 
 « Next to this is very often found a skirt of rich pine 
 land, dark mulatto soil, with hickory, buckeye and shrub* 
 bery, characteristic of rich land. 
 
 " From this kind of land there is a gradual declination 
 to the poor pine woods. On the heads of the numerous 
 branches of Conecuh, approaching the ridge, there is a 
 skirt of oak and hickory land, five or six miles, running 
 
m 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 iOl 
 
 paiallel vvitli tlie ridge. The soil is mostly of a free, soft, 
 gray quality ; sometimes it is found rich, strong and red, 
 clotlied with an agreeable mixture of oak, hickory, pine, 
 poplar, ash, chesnut, dogwood, &,c. 
 
 "The Sepulgas, Burnt Corn, and Murder creeks, lying 
 more to the west, it is said, aftbrd larger bodies of good 
 land than Conecuh ; tiiere are none, however, so far as 
 we can learn, very extensive on any of these waters. 
 
 " Of the extent of the navigation of Conecuh, we have 
 no satisfactory account. The surveyors, however, who 
 ran the parallel townships from the Spanish line progres- 
 sively to the north, or up the river, found it no where 
 passable with their horses, witliin 50 miles of the Spanish 
 line, without swimming their horses and constructing 
 rafts for their packs. They report it to be a fine deep 
 channel, with a slow eddy current. At a distance of 
 about 50 or 60 miles above the line of demarcation, it 
 divides into two large creeks ; and here is probably the 
 head of boat navigation. The whole tract of country is 
 abundantly supplied with perennial springs of excellent 
 water. Your approach to the water is always announ- 
 ced by the wide spreading cane brakes, which uniformly 
 cover the wet bottoms of all the branches, and atford an 
 almost inexhaustible range for cattle. 
 
 " No country affords a better prospect of health. From 
 the nature of the soil, however, the population must bii 
 thin. 
 
 " Of the mineral productions of this country, the most 
 remarkable is the large quantity of stone, having the 
 appearance of volcanic lava, lying in broken fragments, 
 covering the tops and sides of many of the hills compo- 
 sing the ridge, exhibiting evident marks of having once 
 been in a state of fusion. There are also several places 
 
108 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 on the head branches of the Conecuh, where there are 
 indications of iron ore, in considerable quantities ; and 
 judging of its weight, and feruginous aspect, it is pro- 
 bably rich. 
 
 "Among the small prairies, in the western extremities of 
 their range, there are inexhaustible (juarries of limestone, 
 or solid blocks of hard, white, calcareous rock. By burn- 
 ing a piece of this stone in a blacksmith's forge, and 
 slacking it, we found it to effervesce rapidly, and to 
 make strong and beautiful lime. Among this limestone, 
 there are also found many testaceous petrifactions, par- 
 ticularly the oyster, clam, and cockle shells ; some of 
 which are remarkably large, retaining their original form, 
 and exhibiting on their outsides all the lines and niches 
 of the shell in its natural state ; and on the inside, al- 
 most as perfect a polish,as when the shell was iSrst opened. 
 
 " Those beds of limestone (carbonate of lime) are great 
 natural curiosities, whether they are considered with re- 
 gard to their origin, or th« process by which those sub- 
 stances have been changed from their original texture to 
 their present state of petrifaction : and while tliey afford 
 a rich subject of speculation to the naturalist and philo- 
 sopher, they also supply the mechanic with an excellent 
 material in masonry and architecture. , 
 
 " Of the lands lying on the north and west of Alabama 
 and Coosa, but little has been surveyed, and consequent- 
 ly but little of them is known. An actual survey of this 
 country will, however, soon be made ; when its topogra- 
 phical character will be ascertained. 
 
 " With respect to that part of the ceded lands which 
 fall within the limits of Georgia, we have no authentic 
 information, but what is derived from a survey of its 
 boundaries ; and even here, we are deficient in part, not 
 
ALABAMA. 
 
 193 
 
 having the traverse of the Chatahooche river, which is tl\e 
 western boundary of this tract, from the mouth of Sum- 
 niochicola to the mouth of Flint river. The estimated 
 (hstance, however, between these two points, is 60 miles ; 
 and the course nearly south. Taking this, at present, 
 lor the fact, we have the land in the form of a trapezium, 
 whose average length, from east to west, is about 180 
 miles, and its average breadth, from north to south, about 
 60 miles. These dimensions will give a product of 
 11,900 square miles, or 7,616,000 acres. Judging of 
 the interior of the country, from what has been seen on 
 its boundaries, and the roads passing through it, except 
 what lies betwen Flint river and Chatahooche, all the rest 
 could not be sold, for what it would cost the state to 
 survey it. What lies between Flint and Chatahooche ri- 
 vers, however, deserves more attention. In order to form 
 some estimate of the quantity of land comprehended in 
 this district, we must ascertain, as nearly as practicable, 
 its dimensions. The distance from the mouth of Sum- 
 mochicola to the mouth of Flint river, we have supposed 
 to be sixty miles, course nearly south. From the mouth 
 of Summochicola, on the boundary line, to Flint river, 
 tlic distance is ascertained to be 60 miles and ftix perches, 
 east. Thus we have two sides of the tract, 60 miles each, 
 intersected nearly at right angles. 
 
 " Flint river makes a large curve eastwardly or out- 
 wardly. This is inferred from its relative position, with 
 the Catahooclje, at three several points above : On the 
 Oakfuske trail, the distance across from Flint river to 
 the Chatahooche, is about 30 miles : On the Federal road, 
 running nearly west, and SO or 40 miles lower down, the 
 distance across, is 57 miles : On the boundary line, sixty 
 or seventy miles below the road, it is 60 across. There 
 
 R 
 
194! 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 mu8t thon be s considerable bend in the river, somewlicrc 
 below the line. This bend is probably at the limestone 
 bluffi 20 or 30 miles below the line, as it is represented 
 in Mr. Melish's late improved map of the United States. 
 
 " From Chatahooche, on the line to Flint river, there is 
 about a third of the distance good land. In one place, 
 particularly between Herod's creek and Kitchaphone (a 
 large creek) a distance of 17 miles, there is a body of oak 
 and hickory land of a good second quality, finely tim- 
 bered, and lying sufficiently level, extending without a 
 break, from Herod's creek to within a mile of the large 
 creek, Kitchaphone, a distance of 16 miles. In this land 
 we found no water crossing the line between the two 
 creeks. Water was found, however, on the outside of 
 the line. Thence to Flint river the land is generally 
 poor, except about a half mile on the river, which is a 
 fine, soft, gray land, well timbered, and near the river, of 
 a rich soil. 
 
 " Between the two rivers, we cross five large creeks; 
 each of which affords more or less good land ; and on one 
 or two of them (Kiltchaphone and AmakuUa) there is a 
 prospect of good mill seats. 
 
 ** Proceeding from the line down towards tlie point, I 
 am told the proportion of good land increases. But be 
 tlie proportion of the good land more or less, as it is the 
 only part of the whole tract, received from the general 
 government, that will afford any revenue, it would be 
 well for the state to make some disposition of it aud 
 bring the funds thence arising into operation." . 
 
 An elongation of the state of Alabama, between West 
 Florida and the state of Mississippi, including Mobile 
 Bay, extends from 31° north latitude, to the Gulf of Mex- 
 ic<K This tract, which is formed out of West Florida, 
 
ALABAMA. 
 
 195 
 
 deriving more importance from its position, than from 
 its extent or productions, contains about 3850 square 
 miles, including the islands Dauphin, Massacre and 
 Petite Bois. 
 
 Mobile Bay affords the most commodious entrance 
 into the interior on the Gulf coast, witliin the United 
 States. Dauphin island is nearly five miles long, form- 
 ing a triangle ; it is low, sandy and barren. A long, low 
 sand bar from the eastward, approaches within three miles 
 of the island. The main pass between Dauphin island 
 and Mobile Point ; and pass au Heron, between Dau- 
 phin island and the main shore ; each aftbrd an entrance 
 into Mobile Bay. The main pass is circuitous and nar- 
 row, winding round Mobile Point. The intermediate 
 space between the pass and the east points of the island, 
 is shallow. The other pass has only six feet depth over 
 its bar. 
 
 It may be generally remarked of Alabama, that the 
 northern parts of it are broken, near the Tennessee line ; 
 at the northeast corner, it is mountainous ; the middle 
 is hilly ; and contiguous to the Florida line, a space, oc- 
 cupying in width from 50 to 60 miles, is timbered with 
 cypress, loblolly and long and short leafed pine. The 
 largest portion of the surface of the whole state is barren ; 
 the prevailing growth, pine. The alluvion constituting 
 the margin of streams, is very productive ; next in fer- 
 tility are the slopes of hiils, by the people called ham- 
 mocks ; the soil of the latter being composed of sand 
 and clay ; tipiber, pine, oak, hickory, sweet gum, and 
 dogwood. Here, it is believed, the wine grape would 
 flourish ; the position and soil exactly agreeing with 
 those places in France, where the finest vineyards of 
 Europe are planted. But the more fertile portions whl^K 
 afford the productions that are necesssary to the susten* 
 
190 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 tation of life, will be first cultivated. The handmaids 
 of luxury, such as the cultivation of the grape, must be 
 preceeded by an advanced state of agriculture, a dense 
 population and an accumulation of wealth. 
 
 Between the Cunccuh and the Chatahooche, the land 
 is broken and waving ; the high lands parting thcii 
 waters, consist of elevated tracts, flat, light and sand v, 
 abounding in willow leafed hickory, and containing 8o?iie 
 iron ore ; all the streams having cane on their margins, 
 and frequently some oranges. The soil of the waviiijj; 
 land consists of a stiff, red loam, with stone on tli« 
 lidges : the pine land is productive of corn. 
 
 Between the Mobile and the Perdido, the soil is thin ; 
 timber, pine and cypress. The head waters of Escam- 
 bia and Cunecuh, intersect a region productive of cotton 
 and sugar, containing orange groves. 
 
 Along the Tensaw, arc many pine and cypres trees ; 
 near the river are cane brakes, and some cypress swamps. 
 Bordering on the Alabama^ are cane swamps, inter- 
 spersed with pine flats, covered with soil suitable for 
 sugar, cotton or corn. The swamps, at and below the 
 confluence with the Tombigbee, are subject to occasional 
 inundations ; further up, the swamps are extensive, 
 where the musquetoes are very troublesome. Adjacent 
 to the swamps, for a mile in width, is a sterile, stiff clay ; 
 the growth, pine and underbrush ; further back, are bro- 
 ken pine barrens ; and on the streams, cypress ponds and 
 cane braked. Fifty miles above the confluence of the 
 Alabama with the Tombigbee, the high, broken lands 
 commence, extending in width sixty miles : timber, oak, 
 hickory, poplar and large cedars. 
 
 The best lands in the state, are supposed to lie be- 
 tween the Alabama and Tombigbee ; the bottoms of tiie 
 Black Warrior, (whose banks abound with stone coal) 
 
ALABAMA. 
 
 197 
 
 and Bear creek, are excellent ; as also tlioi^c of the Tal- 
 lapoosa. 
 
 Between the dividing ridge that separates the waters 
 of the Cunecuh from those of the Alabama, anil the latter 
 river, is a tract of rich land, about 30 miles long and 20 
 wide ; the timber of a large growth, and the cane abun- 
 dant ; the country well watered, and intersected by 
 many creeks ; the surface undulating and overspread 
 with tall grass. 
 
 At the sources of Limtitone creek, i^ a fine tract of 
 land, 20 miles in length, and about 8 wide ; well suppli- 
 ed with water ; the prevailing growth dogwood. 
 
 Sixty miles above the junction of the Coosa and Td- 
 lapoosa, is a high waving country, with tine springs o'i 
 water ; growth, mulberry, poplar, black walnut, i^o. 
 Avliere the Creek Indians are settled. The stream-j are 
 margine.! with cane ; the surrounding country broken 
 and gravelly. 
 
 Indian Cession. — There has been an extinguishmertt 
 of the Indian claims to an extent of territory in Alabama, 
 equal to three-fourths of the state. The Coosa river is 
 now, by Jackson's treaty, the Indian boundary from the 
 islands in that river to Wetumka, or the Great Falls 
 near Fort Jackson. From Weturaka, the boundary line 
 extends eastwardly about 18 miles ; thence southwardly 
 across the Tallopoosa, to the mouth of the Ofuskee, and 
 up the Ofuskee ten miles j thence south 49° 16' east, 
 67 miles to the mouth of Summochicola, on the Chatta- 
 hooche, 46 miles above 31 degrees north latitude, on 
 the Alabama and West Florida j and from the mouth 
 of the Summochicola, due east, through the state of 
 Georgia to the Altamaha, two miles east of Goose cit ek. 
 The whole of the Creek country, west and south o^ the 
 
 K 2 
 
 i 
 
igs 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 Alabama, and the line above mentioned, was ceded ia 
 the Uniteu States by the treaty with general Jackson. 
 It is supposed, that of the lands ceded, by the late treaty, 
 &bout 17,000 square miles are within the state of Ala- 
 bama. 
 
 TopographicaL'—'The whole extent of surface drain- 
 ed by the Tombigbee, Black Warrior, Alabama, Coosa, 
 
 Tallapoosa and Cahaba, exceeds 26,000,000 acres 
 
 This great region will require a central point, near the 
 head of Mobile Bay, for an emporium of commerce. 
 For the attainment of this privilege. Mobile town and 
 Blakely are the two most prominent candidates. Mo- 
 bile stands upon the west side of the bay of that name, 
 in 30° 40' north latitude. This town, though establish- 
 ed at the time of the first settlements of the French in 
 Louisiana, has never flourished under the French or 
 Spanish, as a commercial town, but has been occupied 
 by them merely as a military post. But since the event 
 of the late war, which put the fertile regions, bordering 
 on the tributaries of the river Mobile, into the possession 
 of the United States, the town has assumed a new ap- 
 pearance. The site of this town is elevated 15 or 20 
 feet above the tide water : it is dry and solid. Vessels 
 can be brought near the shore, and the harbor is com- 
 pletely sheltered from storms or sudden attacks of an 
 enemy by water. But there are serious impediments 
 •pposed to the prosperity of this town : the country in 
 its rear, consists of barren lands : the approach by water, 
 if rendered somewhat difficult, from a low, grassy island 
 lying opposite to the town ; and the same wind, ena- 
 bling a vessel to enter the Bay, will not impel it to Mobile. 
 But the most effectual obstacle to the advancement of 
 Mobile, is that of a preferable commercial depot, on the 
 
ALABAMA. 
 
 199 
 
 id to 
 ksofi. 
 reaty, 
 [ Ala- 
 
 ilrain- 
 
 IJoosa, 
 
 res. — 
 
 ar the 
 
 merce. 
 
 rii and 
 
 . Mo- 
 
 ; name, 
 
 tablish- 
 
 ench in 
 
 ench or 
 
 ccupied 
 
 e event 
 
 >rdering 
 
 ssession 
 
 new ap- 
 5 or 20 
 Vessels 
 is com- 
 ;s of an 
 Idiments 
 
 intry in 
 water, 
 island 
 id, ena- 
 Mobile- 
 tmcnt of 
 :, on the 
 
 eastern and opposite side of the Bay, where a town has 
 lately been commenced by the name of Blakely. This 
 town is more easy of access from the ocean and the 
 country than Mobile. The Tensaw, the eastern branch 
 of the Mobile river, on which Blakely stands, is deeper 
 and wider than the western ; and the same wind which 
 enables a vessel to enter the bay, will carry her to Blakely, 
 Blakely is supplied with copious springs of pure, cool 
 water; and nature has provided a good route for a road, 
 on the dividing ridge, which separates the branches of 
 the Cunecuh and Escambia from those of the Alabama. 
 
 Fort Stoddartt a place of little note, is situated on 
 the west bank of the Alabama. 
 
 F(yrt St. Stevens stands on the west bank of the Tom- 
 bigbee, at the head of schooner navigation : it has been 
 the seat of government for the late territory, and occu- 
 pies a situation naturally advantageous for the purposes 
 of commerce. It contains a bank and an academy. 
 
 Huntsvillet in Madison county, is a flourishing village, 
 and is surrounded by an extensive, wealthy settlefnent. 
 This town contains a bank. Other towns and Tillages 
 are of so recent a date, that little is known of their pro- 
 gress or prospects. 
 
 The following table exhibits the state of population in 
 
 Alabama, as apportioned in the several counties, in 1816, 
 
 Counties. Population* Chief Towns. 
 
 1,163 
 
 4,196 
 
 969 
 
 14,200 
 
 1,300 
 
 Baldwin 
 
 Clark 
 
 Jackson 
 
 Madison 
 
 Mobile 
 
 Washington £,559 
 
 Fort Stoddart 
 
 Huntsville 
 Mobile 
 St Sterens 
 
aoo 
 
 ALABAMA. 
 
 Climate^ vegetable productions, forest trees, state of 
 health, <J*c. — The climate on and adjacent to Mobile Bay 
 is represented bj gentlemen who have resided there 
 many years, as both pleasant and salubrious. It is said 
 to be much preferable to the same parallel of latitude 
 on the Mississippi and in the state of Georgia ; and that 
 the heat in summer, by means of the sea breezes, which 
 blow up the bay from the Gulf, and the natural elevation 
 of the country, is rendered less oppressive, than in the 
 middle states. The diseases are less violent, fewer iti 
 number, and more easily removed by medicine than in 
 almost any section of the United States ; certain local 
 situations excepted. The variety of productions near 
 the Mobile, is said to be remarkable. Says a gentleman 
 from Pennsylvania, who had resided many years at St. 
 Stevens, in a letter to a friend, " On the same plantation 
 I have seen the apple, cherry, orange, fig, quince, Irish 
 potatoe, wheat, rye, buckwheat, flax, cotton and sugar 
 cane, grow well ; nearly all of which excel." He 
 also adds, " The groves of white oaks are immense on the 
 margins of the rivers ; and the groves of red cedar, pine 
 and cypress, are extensive." The oysters and fish of 
 Mobile bay are represented of an excellent quality. 
 
 It has been the opinion of naturalists, that most of the 
 productions of the tropical climates would flourish near 
 the Gulf coast. It is thbught, that the olive, the vine and 
 the tea plant might be made to flourish here. With a 
 view to make an experiment of this kind, the general 
 government have granted to a coiiipany of French emi- 
 grants, 92,160 acres, to be located on lands ceded by the 
 Creek Indians to the United States ; on condition, that 
 they shall introduce the culture of the vine and the olive. 
 Among the vegetable productions, not yet cultivated in 
 
ALABAMA. 
 
 201 
 
 te of 
 J Bay 
 
 there 
 
 3 said 
 
 titude 
 
 dthat 
 
 which 
 
 ivation 
 
 in the 
 
 ;\ver ill 
 
 than in 
 
 n local 
 
 ns near 
 
 [itleman 
 
 •9 at St. 
 
 antation 
 
 ce, Irish 
 
 id sugar 
 
 I." He 
 
 se on the 
 dar, pine 
 i\ fish of 
 
 ^lity. 
 
 »9tof the 
 
 Irish near 
 vine and 
 With a 
 general 
 
 the United States, of the most importance, are the vine, 
 the olive and the white mulberry, which have been found 
 to flourish in the vicinity of each other. The climate 
 and the soil in many parts of the three states, bordering 
 the Gulf coast, are favorable to these productions, unless 
 iinpropitious natural qualities exist there, which have not 
 vet been discovered. 
 
EAST AND WEST FLORIDA. 
 
 Of the two Floridas, we have it not in our power to 
 communicate more than some general outlines. To this 
 section of the western country we have never extended 
 our excursions, nor is it within our knowledge, that any 
 minute, accurate geographical description has ever been 
 published. As the Floridas, though not within, is an in- 
 tegral, and from their position would be an important 
 portion of the United States, we deem it proper to sub- 
 mit to our readers such sketches of the country as have 
 come to our notice. 
 
 East and West Florida are bounded by Georgia on 
 the north, by the state of Alabama on the west, by the 
 Gulf of Mexico on the south, and by the Atlantic ocean 
 on the east. Length 600, and breadth 400 miles ; be- 
 tween 4'' 28' and 10*' 18' west longitude, and 25° and 3£' 
 north latitude. 
 
 In 1497, Sebastian Cabot discovered the Floridas. The 
 French first established themselves there, in 1564; from 
 whence they were compelled to retire, in the following 
 year, by the Spaniards, who took possession of the coun- 
 try and retained it, till the treaty of peace in 1763, when 
 it was ceded to England in exchange for the Havanna, 
 that had been taken from the Spaniards. While in pos- 
 session of the former, it was divided into East and West 
 Florida— which, during the American war, in 1781, were 
 captured by the Spaniards, to whom they were relin- 
 quished by the peace of 1783. 
 
 1 
 
 larl 
 remi 
 uidt 
 is CO] 
 
 harre 
 orang 
 )arge i 
 A lar^ 
 sensed 
 tions. 
 with a 
 the frii 
 the Cai 
 Rice, ii 
 nuntry 
 Ofth 
 pal; wh 
 more thi 
 and puri 
 t'jer, flov 
 gia. Th 
 considen 
 from the 
 I gia, by th 
 from We 
 of Mexic( 
 I ""ost coni 
 
 Iron or 
 hedinthe 
 hresaid 
 
THE FL0RIDA8. 
 
 203 
 
 ^ver to 
 Co this 
 tended 
 \at any 
 er been 
 s an in- 
 iportant 
 : to sub- 
 r as have 
 
 The climate is represented as being not very dissimi- 
 lar from that of Georgia, and for so southern a latitude, 
 remarkably healthy. East Florida, for about 40 miles in 
 width on the sea border, is flat and sandy ; yet the soil 
 is considered productive, as spots here, apparently most 
 barren, produce two crops of Indian corn a year. The 
 orange and lemon trees grow without cultivation, to a 
 large size, and bear better fruit than in Portugal or Spain. 
 A large tract bordering on the river St. Johns, is repre- 
 sented as fertile and well adapted for spacious planta- 
 tions. The inland country, towards the hills, is covered 
 with a soil remarkably rich, producing, spontaneously, all 
 the fruits aini vegetables which tl.>urish in Georgia and 
 the Carolinas, and the southern climates of Europe. — 
 Rice, indigo and cochineal, are also produced in this 
 fDuntry. 
 
 Of the Rivers in East Florida, St, Johns is the princi- 
 pal ; which, after running, nearly in a north tlirection, 
 more than 270 miles, including its curvatures, it turns, 
 and pursuing a north-east direction nearly 30 miles fur- 
 tlier, flows into the Atlantic, a few miles south of Geor- 
 gia. This river is»navigable above the bar, for vessels of 
 considerable burthen, 150 miles. The Appalachicola rises 
 from the Appalachian mountains, passes through Geor- 
 gia, by t^"* name of Chatahoochee, and, separating East 
 from West Florida, discharges its waters into the Gulf 
 of Mexico ; being in length, about 400 miles. The other 
 most considerable rivers are, the J^TassaUt St. J\richolas, 
 Corelia, St. Pedro, Asilla, Vilchees^ and St. Marks. 
 
 Iron ore, copper, qnickeilver, and pit-coal, are produ- 
 i ced in the country, and several species of precious stones 
 I are said to have been found. 
 
204 
 
 THE FLORIDAS. 
 
 Pensacola is the chief town in East Florida, north lat. 
 32° 32' west long. 10° 18' It is situated in a bay of the 
 same name, upon a gentle rising ascent.. The shore, near 
 the town, is sandy, and is acce^ssible to vessels of bur- 
 then. The road is one of the best on the Gulf coast: 
 and the harbor, being surrounded by land, is spacious, 
 commodious and safe. 
 
 St. Jiugiistine, the metropolis of East Florida, in north 
 lat. 29° 45' west long. 4" 20', is situatf;d on the main, 
 about two miles within the bar, immediately opposite tlie 
 inlet. The bar is covered by about 15 feet of water. 
 The town is of an oblong form, divided by four regular 
 streets, crossing at right angles. The town is fortified 
 with bastions enclosed with a ditch, and defended by a 
 castle. The island of Matonzies extends parallel with 
 the coast, before the town, forming a point of St. Augus- 
 tine inlet. This island is principally solid rock, compo- 
 sed of sea shells concreted. With the fragments of this 
 rock, fort St. Marks, and most of the houses in the city, 
 were built. By the application of a good cement to these 
 rocks, the whole becomes a solid compact mais. In the 
 rear of the city, is an impassable ntorass, almost sur- 
 rounding it ; on the margin of which are erected six re- 
 doubts. The fort is 20 feet high, and the wails 12 feet 
 thick, and mounts 36 guns : it is four square, with a bas- 
 tion at each corner, mounting eight 2^ pounders each. 
 The city contains about 500 houses chiefly of stone, with 
 a population of 5000 souls> mostly Minorcans and natives. 
 The remains of a more flourishing state of the city, now 
 evidently declining, arc conspicuous. 
 
[ north 
 main, 
 ^ite t\ie 
 water, 
 regular 
 fortified 
 ied by a 
 [\q\ with 
 . Augus- 
 jcompo- 
 ;s of this 
 |the city, 
 to these 
 In the 
 lost sur- 
 id six re- 
 Is 12 feet 
 [itUabas- 
 ers each. 
 lone, with 
 jd natives. 
 
 Icity, no^ 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 Louisiana was formed into a state in 1812. It is 
 bounded north by Arkansaw territory, east by the state 
 of Mississippi and the Gulf of Mexico. The boundary 
 line is formed by the river Mississippi, from 33° to 31° 
 north ; thence by the parallel of 31° to Pearl river: 
 thence by that stream to its mouth. The Gulf of Mex- 
 ico forms the southern boundary ; and Sabine river the 
 western, from its mouth to latitude 32° north ; thence 
 the boundary line proceeds due n?rth, to latitude 33° ; 
 thence due east to the Mississippi : between longitiide 
 \r and 17° 3'; latftude, from 29° to 33° north ; 240 
 miles long, from north to south, and 210 broad ; contain- 
 ing 48,220 square miles. 
 
 By the census of 1810, this state, then territory of 
 Orleans, contained 75^556 inhabitants, of which 34,660 
 were slaves. When erected into a state, pai t of West 
 Florida, consisting of the parishes of New-Feliciana, 
 East Baton Rouge, St. Helena, and St. Tammany, were 
 annexed to it. 
 
 S 
 
206 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 The following is an account of tlie parishes, square 
 miles and population, as exhibited in 1810. 
 
 Parishes, 
 
 Ascension 
 
 Assumption 
 
 Avoyelles 
 
 West Baton Rouge 
 
 Concordia 
 
 Iberville * 
 
 Interior of Lafourche 
 
 Natchitoclies 
 
 Ouachitta 
 
 Orleans 
 
 Plaquemines 
 
 Point Coupee 
 
 Rapides. 
 
 St. Bernard 
 
 St. Charles 
 
 St. James 
 
 :St. John Baptiste 
 
 St. Land re Opelousas 
 
 St. Mary's and St. Martin's 
 
 Attacapas 
 East Baton Rouge 
 New-Feliciana 
 St. Helena 
 St* Tammany 
 
 Total 
 
 Square miles. Pujmlation. 
 
 550 
 500 
 700 
 • 850 
 2,100 
 350 
 2,500 
 10,600 
 4,000 
 1,300 
 1,500 
 600 
 2,300 
 400 
 300 
 170 
 150 
 7,600 
 
 I 5,100 
 
 500^ 
 1,050 1 
 1,300 f 
 2,000j 
 
 48,220 
 
 2,219 
 2,475 
 1,109 
 1,463 
 2,875 
 2,679 
 1,995 
 2,870 
 1,164 
 24,552 
 1,549 
 4,539 
 2,300 
 1,020 
 3,291 
 3,955 
 2,990 
 5,048 
 
 7,369 
 
 10,000 
 
 86,556 
 
 A large number of the inhabitants are French and 
 Spanish. 
 
 JSTeW' Orleans, on an island of the same name, is a port 
 of entry and the capital of the state, 105 miles by water 
 and 90 in a direct line to the mouth of the Mississippi; 
 1260 miles from the city of Washington, in latitude 29° 
 57' north; longitude 12° 58'. The population of 1802, 
 was estimated at about 10,000 ; by the census of 1810, 
 it was 17,242, of whom 5,961 were slaves ; in 1818, tlie 
 number was supposed about 37,000. The city stands o". 
 
LOUISIANA. g^ 
 
 *'ie east bank of the M;««; c- • ' 
 
 "ow i« .he river. „ t '^ i oT' 1 "'." """ »' " -"«- 
 '-n banker the other extertv"t """"'^ *"<= «»- 
 ci'y- The streets are 4o Tf ' ! ^^ '"''' ^'«^' »'' th" 
 »"f-- Next the ri er. mt :ft' T"* "' "S"' 
 «'«' brick, and in the back r.lvu '"'"^«' ••"•« built 
 «rc formed from the surface v ,7 T""' '^''"' <=«"a™ 
 
 '"^ buildings high froril: ; : :' s:^ ^^ -«"'g 
 
 ornamented with orange ffrover, „ t"''*^"' 8"''ens, 
 «- bouses in the suburlf Tl^r ""''" *"""'»^»f 
 «>» the surface of thV river IrT""'^ '"^^^ '' '"^''^ 
 i(8 channel by artificial TI' T " """'"«<' ""ithin 
 "tending mofe than loi :;:"'""'""*' -"e^ » i..v.. 
 
 The city contains a court hn,,... • •, 
 •rsenal. governor's palace custn!? ■"''", '"»^''e« house, 
 tre. catholic college femLle 'T "''' '""^P""'' » «>«». 
 
 containing about /o'nurthre! '"'''""' =" ""'"""•r. 
 I^nks, one a United rtes'brrncr''Tf '"^^«'- f«"r 
 public worship, one Cathlv \f"'' *"*" '""'^«=' «f 
 
 ^-byterian/'Bes des h t: ZT'^r^ ='"" »- 
 Hall, where public worshTo L „ f *''r'"'P'''' ""'' « 
 P-blic buildings are C'^an/ h T"' **»'' ""''be 
 ve newspapers, three p^ nted in E„:,m"- '"''"''' -« 
 '«o in French and English ^ '' "'"' ""^ <>'ber 
 
 -'ia::^^r^ti:?r:s'T"-"«''^'^- 
 
 W- country. At the^re e" t IsSq ■""' '™'" *'"' 
 »f Mississippi and its t„W ?' "■""" ""^ """ters 
 
 "»cks, nea^fy too stearC'!^;,;"^ "f "« .*bose on the 
 \'*ecny, are concer„e:1: Ir Tat N^lt .'"""^ 
 
 lr-rore:x7ni^'^^ 
 
maMi 
 
 SOS 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 ti'ade of a country, naturally fertile, extending over 30 
 degrees of longitude and 20 of latitude, is destined to be 
 one of the most commercial and flourishing cities in the 
 world. 
 
 Face of the eowitry, navigable streams^ soil, timber 
 growth, agricultural productions, Sfc. S^c. — The isiaiid 
 of New-Orleans is formed by the river Mississippi on 
 one side, and the lakes Ponchartrain and Maurepas, to- 
 gether with an outlet of the Mississippi, called the river 
 Il>erville, on the other. It is in length, about 160 miles, 
 and from 3 to 5 broad. It produces sugar, lemons, 
 oranges and figs. 
 
 From Fort St. Philip, to the bar at the mouth of the 
 Mississippi, a distance by water of 35 miles, the neck of 
 land on both sides of the river, is mostly marsh praira, 
 and unfit for cultivation. It exhibits a dreary appear- 
 ance, and is uninhabited, except by a few fishermen and 
 some pilots near the bar. 
 
 St. Philip, opposite a short bend in the river, to 
 which the swamps nearly approach, afTords an advan- 
 tageous site for a military post, from which to annoy an 
 enemy in ascending the river. The value of Fort St. 
 Philips, as a place of defence, was made conspicuous in 
 the reception it gave the enemy in the late war. The 
 settlements of Terre aux Bceuf are connected with those 
 on the Mississippi, This is a rich tract of land and 
 productive of sugar and cotton. Much of the tinibor 
 growth is excellent live oak, which is going to decaj 
 from the practice of burning the grass around tlie tree?. 
 Just below this place, is the great bend, called the Eng- 
 lish Turn, deriving its name from the circumstance of a 
 deception imposed by a French ofiicer on the comman-j 
 derof an English squadron, sent out in the early settle- 
 
LOUISIAXA. 
 
 209 
 
 ments c»f the country, to explore tlie great Canadian 
 river, as tlie Mississippi was then called. On ti»e Eng- 
 lish commander being informed, after ascending the 
 river thus far, by the Frenchman, that the object of his 
 eiuiuirv was fjrtlier westward ; he immediately deii*ist- 
 ed from iiis pursuits further up, and returned with Ids 
 ileet totheGulf. 
 
 The country adjacent, which spreads out towards 
 lake Borgneand Chandeleur Bay, is a morass, destitute 
 of timber, and covered with grass. 
 
 Tliere are six outlets to the Mississippi ; the west, 
 southwest, south main, or nortlieast, north, and Pass a 
 la Loutre. Of these, the northwest and northeast, have 
 each about an equal depth of water, viz. twelve feet on 
 t]»eir respective bars. The west pass has nine feet, the 
 soutli eight, and the north and Pass a la Loutre, also 
 about eight feet. Latterly the northeast pass is almost 
 exclusively used. It has been formerly supposed, that 
 no permanent improvements could be made in removing 
 the obstructions to the passage of ships at tlie mouth of 
 the Mississippi, on account of the changes that were be- 
 lieved to be constantly happening to the channel. But 
 from critical examination, this has been ascertained to 
 be an ill grounded opinion. The bottoms of most of the 
 passes appear to be a hard, tough, tenacious clay ; and 
 little doubt is entertained, that a considerable greater 
 depth of water at the bar may be effected, that will re- 
 main permanent. 
 
 The nearest point in lake Ponchartrain to New- 
 Orleans, is at, or about Fort St. Johns, which stands on 
 a creek of the same name, that heads in a swamp, south- 
 west of New-Orleans, and after meandering about six 
 miles, discharges into lake Ponchartrain. The depth of 
 
SIO 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 water in this creek varies, accprding to tlie rise and fall 
 of the water in the lake, from three to nine feet. Tlie 
 creek is connected by a canal, with a basin, behind the 
 Charity Hospital of New-Orleans, large enough for many 
 small vessels. Tlie canal is about 20 feet wide, and 
 extends, in a direct line, about two miles, to the creek. 
 This water communication from the city to lake Pon- 
 chartrain, affords such important commercial facilities, 
 that it is contemplated to deepen the channel and ex- 
 tend it to the Mississippi. 
 
 What is called the inside passage from New-Orleans 
 to Mobile Bay, is safe and commodious for small vessels. 
 This passage is through lakes Ponchartrain and Borgne, 
 which are connected by the Rigolets, that constitute the 
 mouth of the Pearl, which communicates with each uf 
 these lakes. 
 
 The pass of the Rigolets, affording nine feet water, is, 
 excepting the Mississippi, the most important inlet of 
 Louisiana, both as it respects commerce and national 
 defence. 
 
 A long peninsula, stretching sou th westward ly by lake 
 Borgne, and 8 or 10 long, narrow islands, lying parallel 
 with the Gulf coast, in an eastwardly position to the Bay 
 of Mobile, smooth the roughness of the Gulf waters and 
 render a passage by water between New-Orleans and 
 Mobile, secure and pleasant. Vessels drawing six feet 
 water, may perform this voyage conveniently. 
 
 Lake Borgne is about 35 miles long, in its extent from 
 the mouth of Bayou Bienvenu to Cat island, with an ave- 
 rage width of twelve miles, and embraces two groups 
 of small islands. Its waters are generally shoal : with 
 the exception of a narrow channel extending on its north- 
 
LOUISIANA. g^^ 
 
 -"■■fl-east: the forme !'„ """'' '""' *'"" <"" "'« 
 
 northern part, of Cat hhn.lT^ . sontl„veatcr„ and 
 . TLongl. this island 1, S b S' f"" f"''"™"- 
 •"'portant. The British occur I / u '' "' ''"'''i™ » 
 of the island, ty their ipso/v , ' "''""■ '" "'^' -"'' 
 «'ey stationed'their ^^ ^^ ' ;"'"" l""'"^'' 
 campaign in Louisiana ' "'"'S ""^"- ''■•(« 
 
 PeSnS,::;;- "f ;ip^^^^ '^-i„e and 
 New-Feliciana. St. Hele„a'a:d St Ta ' ''"'"" ''""»-' 
 lo-e of the most valuable t^cfs of tnT"''',?'''''^" 
 Tl.e southern parts are level h, t I '" ""^ '"""• 
 <!>« growth of 'sugar cLe cln ""• ' ""'' "'""P'"'' '» 
 "orther^, are diversified bv awl: '""r""' '"^«<'-- «"= 
 «l>ere uncultivated, with a^a^ ""''"'• ""'^ ^'"«'<«'. 
 ""•l yellow oak, hickor;,ael!:rr""' "^ '^''"«. "-eJ 
 lar. New-Feliciana ll ^""= V'''""^' "^guolia and pop. 
 
 '»««nof..Gar:,r;SaVat'"^ 
 
 tion" • tCn :'f icl^rj!" """^ "'"^■''- o'-^- 
 
 «f the wealthy planters , dUi . 1^' ''"•^'"^- «<""« 
 
 f --es of land, and raise annual nnlf '"''*" "O" 
 
 «e.s^..ee.entof.orttr"''^-«-^ 
 
 feras Pearl river. This disfZ ' " 'P''*'"' »"« as 
 
SIS 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 A large portion of the nortliern borders of lakes Mau- 
 repas, Ponchartrain and Borgne, is covered witli soil con- 
 sisting of sea sand, intermixed with the decayed remains 
 of sea shells. Although apparently a sterile, dry sand, 
 it produces with gr^at luxuriance, in a long succession 
 of crops, without manure, every species of vegetable 
 which nourishes in the climate. At a depth beneath the 
 surface, beyond tlie reach of vegetable roots, is a strong 
 adhesive clay. 
 
 A complete specimen of the land last described, may 
 be found on the island at the mouth of Pearl river. To 
 the northward of the last mentioned lakes, for an extcMit, 
 ill some places, of more than 20 miles, the lands appear 
 to have been gained from the waters by the recession of 
 the ocean. They are sandy and dry, and aft'oid heallliv 
 habitations. The soil, for a good distance norlhwanlly 
 from, the lakes, resembles ^he earth composing their bot- 
 toms. The southern borders of these lakes, are low 
 and marshy. Madisonville, 26 miles north of New- 
 Orleans, is pleasantly situated on the west bank of tlie 
 Chefuncti, two miles above its discharge into the north 
 part of lake Ponchartrain. It-s situation is advantageous 
 for the coasting or West India trade. A sea vessel will 
 approach it in 14 days less time, and return two days 
 sooner than to and from New-Orleans. It also posseses 
 more conveniencies for building and repairing vessels. 
 It is likewise considered more favorable to health, and 
 less liable to be infested with musquetoes, than New- 
 Orleans. The natural advantages peculiar to Madison- 
 vi'le, have induced the general government to establish 
 a navy yard there. The bordering wild lands abound in 
 pine ; some of which shoot up 70 or 80 feet, clear of | 
 limbs, except near the top. Live oak, cypress, magno- 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 213 
 
 Ha, p!um,gum, bay, cotton wood, ash, willow, and cane 
 brakes are also plenty : the latter are indicative of a 
 rich, deep, dry soil. 
 
 Settlements are interspersed along the margin of the 
 sound, and the inhabitants have large stocks of cattle and 
 horses, and furnish lime and tar for New-Orleans. The 
 lime, being mostly composed of oyster shells, is of an 
 excellent quality. 
 
 There is a strong probability that the grape vine and 
 olive, if properly cultivated, would flourish on a large 
 portion of the fine tracts of land, which are spread out 
 extensively in many parts, bordering the Gulf coast. An 
 experiment of this kind, of which mention has been made, 
 is about being effected on a large scale, by French emi- 
 grants. 
 
 The country west of the Mississippi, within the juris- 
 diction of the United States, presents materials to tlie 
 naturalist and political philosopher, for grand and com- 
 prehensive views. Here the works of nature are dis- 
 played on a niucli broader plan than in the eastern sec- 
 tion of the Union. Long ranges of cloud-topped moun- 
 tains, numerous gieat rivers, "that wander through a 
 world of woods," hardly yet traversed, except hy wild 
 animals, or the footsteps of the roving savage, and a vast 
 variety of soil and clinuite, vegetable and mineral pro- 
 ductions, display, for the contemplation of civilized man, 
 subjects new, interesting and sublime. What a theatre 
 in this extended space, for the developement, and we 
 could feign hope, triumph, of free republican institutions! 
 What means of multiplying and subsisting millions pf 
 human beings ! What a spacious asylum for foreign 
 emigrants, whose patience and means of sustaining life 
 have been exhausted by the wretched, tyrannic policy of 
 the old world ! 
 
 If! 
 
 1 
 
 111 
 
 I 
 
214 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 It has been the opinion of men well versed in the geo- 
 graphy and history of the country, that Louisiana, as ce- 
 ded to the United States, included all that part of North 
 America comprised in the western slope of the Missis- 
 sippi valley, and the inclined plane south of Red river, 
 and east of the Rio Grande del Norte. The section of 
 country we shall first attempt to describe, lies south of 
 the Arkansaw, and west of the Mississippi, comprising 
 two-thirds of the state of Louisiana, the province of Tex- 
 as, and a space exceeding 1,000,000 square miles in the 
 territories of Missouri and Arkansaw. Its outlines are 
 distinctly marked by natural boundaries ; the Gulf of 
 Mexico and Rio Grande del Norte on the west, the Ar- 
 kansaw river on the north, and the Mississippi on the 
 east. 
 
 Streams — Lakes— 'Surface— 'Soil—'Vegetable and Mi- 
 neral productions. — A description of the Mississippi, 
 Arkansaw and Red rivers, may be found in our prelimi- 
 nary remarks. 
 
 The Washiia takes its rise in nortli latitude 34° 39' 
 and v/est longitude 19°, between the Arkansaw and Red 
 rivers. Three branches unite to form this river, about 
 200 miles from their sources. Below this junction, the 
 Washita pursues a course a little east of south ; runs in 
 a direct line 250 miles, and flows into Red river 30 miles 
 above the confluence of the latter with tiie Mississippi. 
 At a distance of 30 miles above its mouth, as the Washita 
 i-uns, after receiving the tribute of the Tensaw and Oca- 
 tahoola rivers, it assumes the name of Black river. 
 
 The Jltchafalaya is an outlet of the Mississippi, from 
 which it commences two miles below the junction of the 
 latter with Red ri\ er ; and pursuing a course of 193 miles, 
 it discharges into a bay of the same name, bordering on 
 the Gulf coast. 
 
he geo- 
 , as ce- 
 f North 
 Missis- 
 1 river, 
 ction of 
 outh of 
 iprising 
 of Tex- 
 3 in tlie 
 ines are 
 Gulf of 
 the Ar- 
 on the 
 
 and Mi- 
 
 isi^sippi, 
 prelimi- 
 
 34° 39' 
 
 ind Red 
 
 r, about 
 
 [ion, the 
 
 runs in 
 
 10 miles 
 
 >issippi. 
 
 ashita 
 
 id Oca- 
 
 Ir. 
 
 \\, from 
 
 of the 
 
 miles, 
 
 Hng on 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 215 
 
 {Southwest of Red river, another groupe of rivers, all 
 pursuing nearly a southeast course, flow towards the 
 Gulf. Of this description are the Teche, Mermentau, 
 Calcassiu, Sabine, Trinity, Brassos a Dios, Colorado, 
 Guadaloupe, St. Antonio, Nueces and Rio Grand del 
 Norte. Within the tract intersected by these streams, 
 the only mcntains are the Masserne and St. Saba. The 
 Masserne, a projection of the Chippcwan, branches into 
 several detached parts between Red and Arkansaw 
 rivers. This mountain, though supposed to abound in 
 valuable minerals, as yet has been but imperfectly ex- 
 plored. 
 
 St. Saba, of which but little is known, is a detached 
 chain of mountains, which parts the head waters of 
 streams flowing into Red river and the Gulf of Mexico. 
 
 The region between the Arkansaw river and tiie Gulf 
 of Mexico, may be classed into two distinct species of 
 soil and surface, the alluvial and the dry and sandy ; 
 the latter, partly praira and partly forest, lying principal- 
 ly to the west and southwest of the former. The flooded 
 marsh, bordering the Gulf coast, may be considered but 
 the termination of each species. 
 
 The extent of praira in the state of Louisiana, has 
 been much overrated. Including the swamps bordering 
 on the Gulf coast, it cannot exceed one-fifth part of the 
 whole surface. With the exception of small parcels scat- 
 tered over the country, the prairas are all connected in 
 one continuous body, winding in various forms of ramifi- 
 cation, from the Pearl to the Sabine river. 
 
 There are two routes from New-Orleans to Opelousaa 
 and Attacapas ; the upper by Plaquemine, and the lower 
 by Lafourche and Teche. The former is most used in 
 transporting articles of commercje, which are commonly 
 
^^^mmmmimmmmmm 
 
 gl6 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 carried in large barges from 20 to 50 tons byrden. A 
 communication on water is practicable by the Plaque- 
 mine, only when the Mississippi is high. The former is 
 a small outlet from the Mississippi, which ceases to flow 
 when tlie latter falls about 10 feet. 
 
 The banks of Plaquemine are very fertile. As tlicy 
 recede from the Mississippi, they are gradua'Jy depress- 
 ed. This stream runs !>ut 15 miles before it joins the 
 Atchafalaya. The left shore only of Plaquemine is in- 
 habited ; the other being too 'ow for cultivation. Some 
 valuable farms are to be founl on this stream, of which 
 the produce, generally, is cotton and lumber. 
 
 The Atchafalaya fljws with great rapidity, when the 
 Mississippi is high, but during low water, no current 
 enters, and the whole length of the stream becomes stag- 
 nant. Some few settlements have been made on the 
 banks ; but, although the soil is rich, so much of it is in- 
 undated, that little remains fit for cultivation. On its 
 left shore, for about six miles from its efflux, a narrow 
 strip of high land borders the stream; and below the 
 Bayou de Glaize, which enters it from the west, a few 
 small spots of high land appear. The Atchafalaya is 
 much obstructed by driftwood that floats out of the Mis- 
 sissippi. Twenty miles below lake Natchez, the Atcha- 
 falaya joins lake Chetimaches, and three miles lower 
 down, receives the Teche river. Twenty miles below 
 the mouth of Teche, the Atchafalaya discharges into the 
 Gulf of Mexico. If the rafts which incumber this river, 
 were removed, its channel would aflbrd great commer- 
 cial facilities. 
 
 The route from Atchafalaya, to the central parts of 
 the Attacapas, most frequented by navigators and travel- 
 lers, leads by tlie lower Tcnsaw into lake Chetimaches, 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 217 
 
 to the Fausse point landing, and thence to St. Martins- 
 ville. It can, however, be used only in high water. 
 
 Opelousas is bounded south by the Gulf of Mexico ; 
 west by the Sabine river; north by 31° north latitude; 
 northeast by the parish of Avoyelles ; east by Atchafa- 
 iaya ; and southeast by Attacapas. 
 
 Mtacapas is bounded southwest and south by the 
 Gulf of Mexico, southwest by the Opelousas, and north- 
 east by Atchafalaya river. Opelousas covers 7600, and 
 Attacapas 5100 square miles. Opelousas is watered by 
 the Sabine, Calcasiu, Merraentau, Courtableau, and At- 
 chafalaya: Attacapas, by the Merinentau, Vermillion, 
 Teche and Atchafalaya. An immense chain of lakes 
 and bays extends by the Gulf of Mexico, in front of Ope- 
 lousas and Attacapas ; Sabine lake, Calcasiu lake, Mer- 
 inentau lake, the three bays of Vermillion, Cote Blanche 
 and Atchafalaya, and lake Chetimaches. 
 
 Sabine river is part of the western limit of the state 
 of Louisiana, and a boundary of Opelousas. The mouth 
 of this river lies in 29° 36' north latitude and 16° 57' 
 west longitude. The adjacent country is an entire, open 
 praira, on which a single tree is not visible from the sea- 
 shore. The width of the river, at its mouth, is about a 
 quarter of a mile ; which width extends for six miles up, 
 where it expands eight miles broad, into a shoal lake, 
 and presei-ves that breadih for 30 miles in extent; its 
 medium depth not exceeding three feet. The country 
 surrounding this lake is all praira. A few trees of 
 stinted growth, are found at the head of the lake. Hie 
 Natchez, pursning nearly a south course, discharges into 
 this lake, within three miles of its head from the Sabine. 
 Above the lake, the river is contracted to the width of 
 200 yards ; its channel winding and variously ramified. 
 
 T 
 
218 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 The praira stretches out ten miles above tlie lake, and 
 terminates in pine woods ; which is the prevailing tim- 
 ber on and near the Sabine. As far as the bounds of 
 Opelousas in 31°, no creeks flow from the east: tlie 
 growth pine, and the soil barren. 
 
 The Calcasiu is the next river to the east of tlie Sabine. 
 The former rises in 31° 30', and flowing nearly soutli, 
 falls into the Gulf, 40 miles cast of the Sabine. A sliort 
 distance from its mouth, the Calcasiu expands into a 
 lake, much resembling, but more spacious than the Sa- 
 bine ; both which lakes abound with wild fowl, consist- 
 ing of ducks and geese. Tiiese lakes are a more fre- 
 quented retreat for ducks and geese in the winter season, 
 than anypart of the western country. The Mermentau 
 finds the sources of all its branches in Opelousas. The 
 Bayou Plaquemine, Blule Cane, Nerpique, and the Que- 
 que Tortue, are the main branches of the Mermentau. 
 The country, watered by the Mermentau, bears a con- 
 siderable resemblance to those parts which are drained 
 by the Sabine and the Calcasiu ; but timber is more rare, 
 and growth, which indicates a better soil, more abun- 
 dant. The prairas, are. more elevated and diversified. 
 The lower part of the Mermentau, like the two former 
 rivers, before it loses itself in the ocean, expands into a 
 broad lake, narrowing, a few miles from its mouth, to the 
 width of the river. 
 
 Vermillion, is the next stream east of the Mermentau. 
 It is a remarkable fact, that the three last mentioned 
 rivers and the Courtableau, head in the same source. — 
 The country, surrounding the Opelousas church, forms a 
 tableland, which feeds the extremities of all these rivers. 
 Three miles northwest of Opelousas church, there is, en- 
 vironed by praira, a body of woods, two miles long and 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 219 
 
 a half a mile wide. This insulated forest is called Isle 
 au VJlnglois. 
 
 From the east side of this island of woods, flow the 
 head waters of the Mermentau. The source of the river 
 is a spacious, low, wet plain. The waters slowly col- 
 lecting to a channel, pass to the southward within a mile 
 of Opelousas church ; and after preserving that course 
 about three miles, divide ; one part running eastward 
 into Bayou Bourbee, contributes to form the Vermillion ; 
 the other runs southwest into Bayou Plaquemine, Brule, 
 and finally into the Mermentau river. 
 
 Bayou Crrand Louis rises 20 miles northwest from 
 Opelousas church, in the Grand Praira ; and in its pro- 
 gress receives the waters from the various prairas which 
 surround it, and at Carron's landing, becomes a large 
 creek. A branch, flowing eastward of Opelousas court 
 house, joins Bayou Grand Louis, at Carron's landing, 
 and after flowing half a mile, divides ; one part running 
 to the southeast, forms the Teche ; and the other part, 
 by the name of Bayou Carron, after a course of two 
 miles, falls into the Courtableau river. After leaving 
 Bayou Carron, the Teche flows to the southeast 7 miles, 
 receives an outlet of the Courtableau, which leaves the 
 river at Bare's. Below the junction, the stream flows 
 to the southward ten miles, and receives from the west. 
 Bayou Bourbee. The latter stream is formed from the 
 various drains of the prairas to the southward of Opelou- 
 sas church. Its extreme northern source is, as has been 
 observed, three miles north of the latter place ; but is, 
 at the church, only a mere drain ; continues to the south 
 about 8 miles, and is augmented by Chertien's Bayou, 
 a large creek from Praira Bellevue ; it then turn^ north- 
 east, along the Grand Coteaux, about four miles, and 
 
230 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 divides ; one part turning east, enters the Teche ; the 
 other south, receives Bayou Carrion Crow, three miles 
 below, and thence the united streams bear the name of 
 Vermillion river. 
 
 The Vermillion continues to flow southward ten miles, 
 is augmented by the Bayou Queque Tortue, fiom the 
 vicinity of St. Martinsville, and turns to the southwest 
 16 or 17 miles. In about 30° north latitude, the Vermil- 
 lion again bends to the southeast 10 miles, and then as- 
 sumes a south course of 12 miles, and falls into Vermil- 
 lion Bay. 
 
 Below the Fusilier, the Teche forms a great bend to 
 the eastward, southward and westward, of 12 miles, in 
 a channel almost as uniform as if formed by art. It 
 then recurves southeastward five miles, and assumes a 
 south course 15 miles, passes St. Martinsville, and flows 
 to St, Maur's plantation ; where commences the Fausse 
 point bend. This latter curve is 22 miles in circuit, 
 and yet the river returns within less than a mile and a 
 half of St. Maur's house. The river then bends to the 
 southward, and about two miles from this turn, passes 
 New-Iberia : it being only 9 miles from St. Martinsville 
 to New-Iberia by land, and more than SO by water. 
 
 Below New-Iberia, the Teche flows 20 miles southeast 
 to Sorell's plantation, where the river turns to the east- 
 ward, and in a direct distance of IS miles, to the court 
 house of St. Mary's, forms two great bends. Below the 
 latter, the river flows south of east 25 miles and falls 
 into the Atchafalaya. The length of the Teche, if 
 Bayou Grand Louis is included, is 170 miles. 
 
 The Teche presents a singular phenomenon in geo- 
 graphy, of which a parallel cannot, perhaps, be found on 
 the globe. It widens and deepens, for more than 100 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 221 
 
 theast 
 east- 
 court 
 ow the 
 falls 
 he, if 
 
 geo- 
 nd on 
 n 100 
 
 miles in length, without any visible source of an increase 
 of its waters. At the mouth of Bayou Fusilier, the Teche 
 is, at low water, not more than thre*^ feet deep, and about 
 fifty yards from high bank to high bank ; but where it 
 enters the Atchafalaya it is upwards of two hundred 
 yards wide, and more than twenty feet in depth. Ves- 
 sels drawing five feet water, pass to New-Iberia, and the 
 tide often flows above that place. Notwithstanding there 
 are more bends than can be found in almost any other 
 river of the same magnitude- yet the channel is as regu- 
 lar as though formed by a skilful engineer. The banks 
 are elevated generally above the highest floods, and are 
 evidently the deposit of alluvial soil. The Teche, whose 
 banks gradually slope on each side of the river, must 
 have derived its channel from a state of things which no 
 longer exists, and the waters which flowed in its present 
 course must have formerly been vastly more abundant. 
 The fertility of the soil covering the borders of this river 
 is inexhaustible ; it is difficult to conceive of any lands 
 being of a superior quality. 
 
 The Courtableau intersects some of the most valuable 
 cultivated parts of Opelousas, and is formed by the con- 
 fluent streams of the bayous Crockodile and Beeuf, which, 
 after flowing from the pine hills southwest of Alexandria, 
 in the parish of Rapides, in a nearly parallel course for 
 about 70 miles by a direct line, unite eight miles north of 
 Opelousas church. 
 
 Most of the prairas, as before remarked, within the state 
 
 of Louisiana, that spread out in various ramifications, are 
 
 in a manner connected in one continuous tract Of those 
 
 prairas we shall proceed to ^ve a description, in order, 
 
 according to their position, beginning with those that lie 
 
 «ontiguoU3 td the Sabine. 
 
 t2 
 
M^ 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 It 
 
 The Sabine Fraira spreads over all the space between 
 the Sabine river and the Calcasiu. Near the sea shore, 
 this praira terminates in an extensive marsh ; but from 
 the shore there is a gradual ascent of surface back into 
 the country, and on approaching the woods the land is 
 considerably elevated. The soil, resembling the pine 
 woods, is mostly sterile. But few settlements have been 
 made, nor will they probably be multiplied for many 
 years. The United States hitherto have ordered no sur- 
 veys on the Sabine. The settlers on the borders of that 
 stream either hold grants under the French or Spanish 
 governments, or have seated themselves down as unau- 
 thorised intruders. The French government, althougli 
 they always extended their claim of territory to the Rio 
 Grand del Norte, never granted any lands west of the 
 Mermentau ; and grants from the Spanish ha^^e never 
 been made of more than two or three tracts. The order 
 of survey, by the United States, was limited south of Red 
 river, to the meridian of Natchitoches, which excluded 
 the country on the Sabine. 
 
 Calcasiu Praira, including the marsh west of Mermen- 
 tau lake, is 70 miles long, averaging a width of 20 miles 
 wide, embracing a space of 896,000 acres. Of this tract 
 nearly 650,000 acres, in point of elevation, would admit 
 of cultivation ; but the soil is thin and sterile. Where 
 any timber grows, the praira is skirted by pine woods. 
 Black jack oak, mixed with pine, grow along the Nez- 
 pique. On bayou Lacasine, the woods are composed of 
 pine, oak, hickory and ash, on the high land 5 and cypress 
 and maple in the swamps. The be t soil is on the north- 
 west part of this praira, near the little and upper lake of 
 Calcasiu ; where the timber is pine, black and red oak, 
 hickory, ash, and other trees indicating a second rate soil. 
 
LOUISIANA* 
 
 S23 
 
 Some spots there are naturally fertile, but the surface is 
 generally sterile. A few grants were inatlc by the Spa- 
 nish government, of small tracts on the waters of Calca- 
 siu ; and some settlements have been made tliere, with- 
 out any grant ; but the greater portion remains undispo- 
 sed of, and unoccupied. The soil, tliough ordinary, being 
 too abundant in clay, is superior to that on tiie waters of 
 the Sabine. 
 
 The eastern border of the Calcasiu praira, on tlie wa- 
 ters of the Mermentau river, is considerably settled. — 
 Some of the largest stocks of cattle in Opelousas range 
 here. The farmers enrich their fields with the manure 
 afforded by folding their cattle. The people in this quar- 
 ter lead a pastoral life. Agriculture is pursued only to 
 obtain such products as are used in their families.— 
 Their buildings and mode of living bespeak, to a stran- 
 ger, the frugal simplicity of the inhabitants. 
 
 A journey from New-Orleans to the mouth of the Sa- 
 bine, displays distinctly the various conditions of man, 
 from the palace to the meanest log cabin : all the various 
 grades of civilized state, from the most polished and en- 
 lightened society, to that of the rudest stage above the 
 savage. In the city of New-Orleans, four or five of the 
 most learned and polite languages of Europe are spoken 
 in their greatest purity. All the luxury, that wealth and 
 mechanical ingenuity can bestow, is enjoyed by certain 
 foreigners, and those who have accumulated riches from 
 merchandize, and the labor of numerous slaves bestowed 
 on a wonderfully rich soil, productive of the mest valua- 
 ble crops, sugar and cotton. The various conditions of 
 man, between luxurious wealth and squalid poverty, a 
 life of ease and incessant labor, suggest reflections inter- 
 (stiug to the moralist and politician. A traveller, after 
 
S24 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 sun'eying the superb mansions, tlie splendid equipaue 
 and luxuriant tables of the wealthy citizens in Ncvv-Or- 
 leans, traversing the country to Opelousas and Attacapas, 
 will find at the latter places, as a substitute for the whow 
 and luxuriousenjoymcntsof life, a substantial independ- 
 ence enjoyed by the cultivators of the soil, as far removed 
 from the annoyance of want, as from excessive gratifita- 
 tion«h— their habits frugal, but hospitable; tlieir habita- 
 tions not showy, rather rough, but strong and conve- 
 nient ; their beds neat and good ; and their food whole- 
 some and abundant. In the west of Opelousas our traveller 
 would find a society of men, that are real pastoral hunt- 
 ers ; who remind us of the early period of history, when 
 man divided his time between the chace of game in the 
 forests, and the care of his flocks. But we will return 
 from this digression to resume our subject. 
 
 Praira Menou occupies a space between two branches 
 of the Mermentau, the Nezpique and Plaquemine Brule. 
 It is about 40 by 5 miles in extent, and contains 128,000 
 acres. There is a great variety in the soil and growtli 
 of timber, which consists of every species known in Ope- 
 lousas, except poplar. Although some parcels are second 
 rate lands, the prevailing character of the soil is sterile j 
 and the time of the inhabitants is chiefly employed in 
 raising cattle. The settlers are mostly emigrants from 
 the United States ; many ot whom are hired stockholders. 
 
 Grand Praira^ immediately east of praira Menou, is 
 of nearly the same extent. It embraces lands bordering 
 on the watersof the Mermentau, Courtableau and Teche. 
 The soil is of a quality superior to that of the prairas be- 
 fore described ; in the southwestern part it resembles that 
 of praira Menou, as does also the timber. The Grand 
 Praira on its border, is thickly settled by farsoers | few 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 
 of whom are exclusively employed in raising cattle. The 
 population consists of French and Americans, (as people 
 from the United States are there commonly called) the 
 former the most numerous and wealthy. Most of those 
 lands that are valuable, were granted to individuals by 
 the governments of France and Spain. Some of tlie most 
 pleasant and healthy situations in Opelousas are included 
 in this tract. The water is fine. Although there are 
 many wet places, the marshes are few, nor do stagnant 
 waters exist. The common crops are maize and cotton ; 
 the latter a staple commodity. Considerable quantities 
 of beef, pork, butter, cheese and tallow are produced. 
 On the waters of Mermentau are several species of oak, 
 ash, hickory, dogwood, pine, linden, laurel, magnolia, ma- 
 ple, wild cherry. The underwood, spice wood, Spanish 
 mulberry, muscadine, grape vine, and other shrubbery. 
 
 Opelousas Praira extends from the Gulf of Mexico 
 nearly north, 80 miles, and is bounded on the east and 
 north by the Vermillion and Teche rivers, and on the 
 west by the woods of bayou Mellet, bayou Cane, and by 
 the Mermentau river. This sea of grass, on an average, 
 is 25 miles wide, and covers 1,200,000 acres. Some of 
 the most thriving settlements in Opelousas and Attaca- 
 pas, are in this praira. The marsh, between Vermillion 
 bay and tlie lake of Mermentau, is 30 miles square :— ■ 
 this great expanse is generally covere<l with grass, and 
 has some- trees. Near the sea shores ridges, rising above 
 the level of the marsh, consist of dry and solid ground, 
 covered with live oak trees. These ridges appear to have 
 been formed by the motion of the sea, and to have been 
 successively abandoned, as otiiers were formed by the 
 surf: they lie parallel to the shore, and are separated by 
 
 ^oons, ponds or marshes : tliey afford undisturbed re- 
 
226 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 treats for wild animals, such as deer, turkeys and grouse. 
 
 The live oak tree appears to designate climate, and 
 proves that the temperature of the atmosphere lowers in 
 Louisiana by advancing westward. On the Mobile, live 
 oak is found nearly as far north as SI". Between Mo- 
 bile and Mississippi it disappears above 30° SO', whilst 
 on the latter stream it falls ten miles further south. On 
 Atchafalaya, above Crow island, it is found as high as 
 30° 20'. That the existence of live oak depends on 
 local position, is shown by the circumstance of its grow- 
 ing further north, both east and west, than on the Mis- 
 sissippi ;— ^the current of air descending that river, redu- 
 ces to a lower temperature the region of air contiguous 
 to its banks. 
 
 Beihvue Praira exceeds thirty miles in length, from 
 north to south, and is about six miles from east to west. 
 This name is significantly expressive of the place. The 
 most charming, productive, and best cultivated parts of 
 Opelousas and Attacapas are to be found in this praira. 
 On the eastern border of which, upon an elevated spot, 
 stj^nds the church of St. Land re ; and the town and seat 
 of justice for the parisli is located in a projection of the 
 praira. Opelousas contained upwards of 5,000 inhabi- 
 tants in 1810, of which more than one half resided in the 
 Bellevue. 
 
 The eastern border of Bellevue is variegated ; much 
 of the surface rolling; the land extremely fertile; the 
 middle parts fertile ; some parts elevated ; mostly flat 
 and wet, but not marsliy. The western pa;ts, upon 
 bayou QuequeTortue, bayou Plaquemine Trule and bayou 
 Mellet, vary with the general effect of these several 
 water courses; uponQueque Tortue the soil is sterile— 
 upon Plaquemine Brule and Mellet, of second quality— 
 
 ges of V 
 iji this pi 
 pioductii 
 parts of i 
 as the oli 
 tensive ai 
 the Atchi 
 there heir 
 ofthat sti 
 tacapas, c 
 tants, one 
 Teche, in( 
 Iberia. 
 
 The soi 
 Teche disf 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 * t^ 
 
 •ouse. 
 ?, and 
 ers in 
 e, live 
 n Mo- 
 whilst 
 I. On 
 jigh as 
 ids on 
 5 grow- I 
 le Mis- 
 r, ledu- 
 itiguous 
 
 th, from 
 to west. 
 e. The 
 
 parts of 
 5 praira. 
 
 ed spot, 
 
 and seat 
 ■n of the 
 inhabi- 
 
 d in the 
 
 much 
 iile ; the 
 itly flat 
 Is, upon 
 Id bavou 
 several 
 Uerile— 
 Lality— 
 
 tlie northern part, upon bayou Grand Louis partaking of 
 tlie beauty and fertility of the land of Teche. The afore- 
 mentioned names designate bays, wliich are ramifications 
 from the main praira, in the direction of the several 
 streams, from which their distinctive appellations have 
 been taken. In the three latter prairas the land is gen- 
 erally flat and wet affording good pasturage — some parts 
 high enough for tillage. In this, as in most of the prai- 
 ras of Opelousas and Attacapas, thouj^ii the soil be thin, 
 it retains manure with great tenacity, there being but a 
 small portion of sand in its composition. Bellevus pra- 
 ira is skirted vvith an excellent growth of timber, inclu- 
 ding various kinds of oak. 
 
 JUtacajms Praira occupies the space between the 
 woods of Vermillion and Teche, being about 40 miles iQ 
 length, but of unequal breadth, lying in the form of a tri- 
 angle ; the base of which rests.upon Teche river, the per- 
 pendicular extending nearly to New-Iberia. Many ran- 
 ges of woods chequer this praira. The elevated lands 
 ill this praira are extremely fertile, and all the vegetable 
 productions known in Louisiana will grow in the various 
 parts of it; and probably many not yet introduced, such 
 as the olivCi would flourish, if cultivated. The most ex- 
 tensive and wealthy settlements i^ Louisiana, we:it of 
 the Atchafalaya, are upon the right bank of the Teche ; 
 there being a compact settlement extended on the banks 
 of that stream, as it runs, a distance of 140 miles. At- 
 tacapas, at present, contains more than 10,000 inhabi- 
 tants, one half of whom reside on the right bank of the 
 Teche, including the towns of St. Martinsville and New- 
 Iberia. 
 
 The soil and surface between the Vermillion and 
 Teche display much variety : ieveral hills of a similar 
 
g38 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 construction, risi :g to the height of 100 feet, covered 
 with timber, different in species from that growing on 
 the surroundin<»; marshes. On a little stream called 
 Petite Anso, near these hills, are to be found more tlian 
 40 different species of trees, including the live oak, wal- 
 nut, white and black hickory, and sweet gum. A slug- 
 gish bayou iisues from an impassable marsh environing 
 the Rills. The bayou is made to communicate with the 
 Petite Anse, which discharges into Vermillion Bay, by a 
 canal cut through the solid praira, a causeway being 
 thrown up from the bayou to the high land. The island 
 thus formed by a communication between the streams, 
 contains about 3000 acres of excellent land. 
 
 Upon the Petite An&e a salt spring has been formed, 
 from which considerabio quantities of salt have been 
 manufactured. From its proximity at first, the spring 
 was considered a mere drain of the sea, but by further 
 examination it was ascertained, that the saltness of the 
 water was derived from other sources. For several 
 years past, tlie adjacent settlements have been supplied 
 with salt from this spring. 
 
 Praira Grand Cherruil borders on the banks of the 
 Teche, from eight miles southeast ofOpelousas church to 
 about southeast of New-Iberia ; and is in length 52 miles, 
 with a medium width of two. Near the bank of the 
 Teche, the praira, uniformly consists of a high, fertile 
 soil. In approaching the opposite woods, although the 
 surface slopes considerably, much of the land is sufficient- 
 ly high for cultivation. Indeed, the greater part of this 
 praira will admit of cultivation. The settlements bor- 
 dering these woods, are numerous, among which are 
 many extensive farms. Cotton and maize, which are the 
 prevailing crops, grow luxuriantly. 
 
 w 
 
 Til 
 
 ous. 
 
 of va 
 
 water 
 
 side t 
 
 Atcha 
 
 Pra 
 
 Bourbi 
 
 3 wide 
 
 excelle 
 
 produc 
 
 Petit 
 
 and Pn 
 
 On til 
 
 off% Ca 
 
 ofthesej 
 
 most of 
 
 Wickofl 
 
 Opelous; 
 
 which is 
 
 mences 
 
 laya : n.,\ 
 
 of.w, 
 
 V. 
 
 plains 01 
 
 an impass 
 
 > the no 
 
 •ortheast, 
 
 ty bayouj 
 
 and almois 
 
 '•-.t^yee 
 
 *re the hil 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 239 
 
 ^^'^ 
 
 a 
 
 erei\ 
 g on 
 illed 
 than 
 wal- 
 slug- 
 oning 
 th the 
 r,bya 
 being 
 island 
 rearis, 
 
 'ormed, 
 ve been 
 i spring 
 1 further 
 of the 
 several 
 upplied 
 
 of the 
 \urcb to 
 
 2 miles, 
 of i.he 
 fertile 
 
 lugh the 
 
 Ifficient- 
 of this 
 its bor- 
 
 Uich are 
 are the 
 
 The local position of this praira is highly advantage- 
 ous. Its proximity to an abundance of excellent timber 
 of various species, and the convenience of navigable 
 waters, greatly increase the value of these lands. Be- 
 side the mouth of the Teche, there are five outlets into 
 Atchafalaya river. 
 
 Praira Laurent, inclosed between the Teche, Bayou 
 Bourbee and Bayou Fusilier, is about 7 miles long and 
 3 wide. The high parts of this praira are covered by an 
 excellent soil. It embraces several fine farms, which 
 produce cotton and maize in abundance. 
 
 Petite Bois and Romaine lie above Priara Laurent 
 and Praira Chevrevl, along the Teche. 
 
 On the Courtableau are Prairas Bare, Alabama, Wick' 
 off's, Carron's Le Melle'^% and one or two more. None 
 of these, except Wickoffs, exceed two miles in length ; 
 most of them about one ; but all are extremely fertile. 
 WickoflPs praira is the termination, to the northeast of 
 Opelousas, of the natural meadows. Beyond this praira, 
 which is four miles long, and one and a half wide, com- 
 mences a heavy forest, which continues to the Atchafa- 
 laya : ft *» impervious cane brak«5 spreads over many parts 
 of? 
 
 ii i-ay :e generally observed, that the high, arable 
 plains 01 .t' icapas and Opelousas, are bounded south by 
 an impassable morass ; to the west by continuous prairas ; 
 ' J the northwc^ ^ by open, dry pine woods ; and to the 
 .ortheast, by an annually inundated expanse, intersected 
 by bayous, chequered by lakes, or covered by a forest, 
 and almost impenetrable with cane and palmetto brakes. 
 
 Bi-tVeen the settlements of Opelousas, and those of 
 A.y^,j<..h'^f &bout 15 miles in a direct line, from each, 
 are the hills and praira of Bayou Rouge. At a good dis- 
 
 u 
 
 I 
 
 u^l 
 
^30 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 tance from Opelousas, the timber, soil and surface re- 
 semble the woodland in many places, within four or five 
 miles of the church of the latter ; whilst an annually 
 inundated swamp, totally different from either, inter- 
 venes. 
 
 Bayou Rouge hill rises abruptly from low lands, 40 
 feet above the surrounding level, which is covered with 
 cypress, swamp, white oak and other trees, similar to 
 those growing on inundated lands. The liill is about 
 three miV.s in diameter, being nearly round and about 
 two-thirti i e surface praira. From the northeast of 
 this hill, isss . a spring of pure water. Upon the em- 
 minence above the spring, a traveller may be seated, at 
 the root of a black oak, surrounded by dogwood, mulber- 
 ry and other trees, scarcely ever found on the borders of 
 land subject to inundation by the Mississippi ; and re- 
 main within 100 yards of lands flooded by water, four 
 or five feet deep, every spring. The trees and shrubs 
 of this humbly elevated hill, a:e as distinct from those on 
 the swamp surrounding the hill, as if they grew in differ- 
 ent climates. On this hill resides a small tribe of To- 
 nica Indians ; who have adopted many of the manners 
 and customs of the French, as also their manners of cul- 
 tivating the soil. Their nation, in 1731, experienced a 
 melancholy fate ; being chiefly destroyed, at Tonica 
 village, on the Mississippi, below Red river, by the tribe 
 of Natchez ; who, two years before, massacred the 
 French settlers, at the now town of Natchez. Almost 
 the whole tribe of the latter were, in their turn, destroy- 
 ed by the French. The Tonicas were always in friend- 
 ly alliance with the French. The small remnant of To- 
 nicas who survived, under tlie protection of the French, 
 removed to Baton Rouge hill, where their descendants 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 231 
 
 re- 
 
 to the number of 40 or 50 persons, still resifle ; and like 
 the Frencii, they cultivate cotton and maize. Their 
 residence being surrounded by flood waters several 
 months in the year, forms a retreat, almost as secluded as 
 a desert island in the unfrequented parts of the ocean. 
 From near the hill flows a stream, called Bayou Rouge, 
 as also, one further south, called Bayou Petite Praira, 
 nearly parallel ; both of which enter Atchafalaya, ten 
 miles apart. Upon each of these bayous, particularly 
 the latter, are considerable tracts of excellent land : but 
 the obstruction to navigation caused by tlie raft in Atcha- 
 falaya, it is supposed will retard improvements for a 
 long period. The region between Opelousas and Bayott 
 Rouge, is thickly covered with trees of an extraordinary 
 size. In this prodigious heavy timbered forest, is an im- , 
 mense quantity of fine white oak, and cypress. 
 
 tDTatural features^ productions, settlements and towns 
 in Opelousas and Attacapas. — The names of Attacapai 
 and Opelousas, were derived from two tribes of Indians, 
 who formerly inhabited those regions : the former resid- 
 ed near the head of Teche. The country was discovered 
 and settled by the French, about the year 1750. In the 
 early settlement, of the country, the whole tract was 
 called Attacapas. It was after formed by the French 
 into two separate commandaries ; one retaining the name 
 of Attacapas, and the other receiving that of Opelousas. 
 The dividing boundary between the two districts, is the 
 Mermentau, from its mouth by the eastern branch, called 
 Queque Tortue, in the direction of that stream, to the 
 Atchafalaya. As the natural position of the two afore- 
 mentioned districts is nearly the same, it will be proper 
 to describe them geographically, as one entire tract. 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 The contrast, to the vye of a traveller, between the 
 dark an<l silent gloom in tlie thick, heavy timbered, in- 
 undated lands of Atchafalaya, and the open, light, and 
 cheerful expansion of the wide spread prairas of Opelou- 
 sas aild Attacapas, produce surprising and agreeable 
 emotions. In a route by the mouth of the Teche, into 
 Attacapas, after landing at Renthrop's ferry, the most 
 ^.nteresting object which will arrest the attention of thi; 
 spectator, is the rich borders of the Teche, lined with 
 live oak, black oak, sweet gum and laurel magnolia ; the 
 arable margin narrow and extending down the Atchafa- 
 laya five or six miles below the mouth of the Teche. Up 
 the latter, as far as Sorrel's, the same physiognomy i» 
 18 displayed : narrow prairas extending along the river, 
 with a margin covered by wood. At Sorrel's, the praira 
 immediately expands, and opens on the traveller a broad 
 expanse of grass covered surface, denuded of wood, that 
 stretches to Rio Grand del Norte. 
 
 At the lower extrimity of Fausse point, in a short, 
 deep bend of the Teche, on the vt^estbank, stands New- 
 Tberia, a port of entry, at the head of schooner naviga- 
 tion. It is an elegant site, commanding a charming, 
 diversified prospect. The adjacent country is one of the 
 most fertile, populous, and best cultivated tracts in At- 
 tacapas. This village occupies the extremity of an em- 
 minence scarcely perceptible, projecting southwestward- 
 lyfrom the banks of the Teche, and forming the ground 
 which embraces the settlement of Cote Gele, between 
 New-Iberia and Vermillion river. This prominence is 
 moderately elevated abov«j the banks of the Teche ; but 
 the soil is essentially different. The Vermillion inter- 
 sect? this swell of land, on which is the principal penult 
 «ettlement, west of that stream ; thence turning north- 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 233 
 
 ward, this eminence stretches out through Opelousas, 
 and gradually acquiring elevation, shoots up, near Red 
 river, into hills of considerable height. Schistous sand 
 stone is displayed in the base of these hills, on the head 
 waters of bayous Boeuf and Crockodile. Rarely has any 
 considerable quantity of stone, on, or under the surface, 
 been discovered in Attacapas, or tlie lower parts of 
 Opelousas. 
 
 The ground occupied by New-Iberia, although twenty 
 feet above the highest waters, is alluvial. The site of 
 the town separates two bodies of land, which though 
 formed from the same sources, have been deposited at 
 periods of time widely distant. The hills, being more 
 rolling than tJie banks of the Teche, are preferable for 
 agriculture. The district between New-Iberia and Ope- 
 lousas church, embracing the ridge of hills, is among the 
 most pleasant, populous, and best cultivated parts of the 
 country. 
 
 The price of Iknd, here may be considered from five 
 to fifty dollars per acre ; according to situation, quality 
 of soil, and degree of improvements. The price is, how- 
 ever, less than on the Teche } generally more so than in 
 proportion to the intrinsic value. 
 
 The high lands seldom extend to the margin of the 
 Vermillion, which flows through low, inundated bottoms ; 
 on the other hand, the highest lands, adjacent to the 
 Teche, are on its banks j where marshes never occur, and 
 arc but seldom found near it. 
 
 The borders of the Vermillion are very low, but nearly 
 as rich as those of the Teche. 
 
 8t. Martinsmlle^ the seat of justice for the parish of 
 St. Martins, is th^ next largest town to Natchitoches* 
 \Vest of Atchftfalaya river, in Louisiana. It standi on 
 
 V8! 
 
fm: 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 the west bank of tlie Tcche, 30° 10' N. lat. nine miles by 
 land, and thirty-two by water, above New-Iberia. Al- 
 though this town is favorably situated for commerce, in 
 a productive, well cultivated country, its surface is too 
 flat, and its streets, in rainy seasons, exceeding muddy. 
 The church of Attacapas being placed here, gave rise to 
 the town. Under the Spanish government, the towns 
 where their churches have been erected, uniformly become 
 places for transacting public business. 
 
 Above St. Martinsville, there are no more towns in 
 Attacapas. Upon both banks of the Teche, upon tlie 
 Vermillion, and intermediate streams, ther country is well 
 settled. Tlie soil is productive of large crops of cotton, 
 which is the chief object of cultivation. . 
 
 The value of lands, is generally among the first enqui- 
 ries of a traveller ; to which no definite answer can be 
 given : the price varying, according to the relative situa- 
 tion, the quality of the soil, the crops of wl\ich it is pro- 
 ductve, the improvements made, the surrounding settle- 
 ments, and various other considerations. Lands where 
 sugar can be produced, next to them cotton, will, other 
 circumstances being equal, always command the greatest 
 prices. 
 
 In all parts of the United States, the cotton plant is 
 secure from vernal and autumnal frosts, below 55° N. lat. 
 where, if the soil be congenial, a proprietor of land may 
 surely calculate on good crops of cotton, by bestowing a 
 proper degree of cultivation. Further north, the crops, 
 though they may grow luxuriantly, are precarious, from 
 the effects of frost. In like m-anner 30° north may be 
 considered the northern boundary for the growth of su- 
 gar cane. But as climate is not uniformly regulated by 
 degrees of latitude, there are considerable exceptions t*^ 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 235 
 
 this position ; there being a great variety of causes, wliich 
 do not exist in all places, that combine to moderate the 
 temperature of the air. The region around Mobile bay 
 is a remarkable instance of this kind. 
 
 Sugar cane flourishes well in the lower region mean- 
 dered by the river Teche. Beside cotton, which is the 
 prevailing crop in the greater parts of Attacapas and 
 Opelousas, tlie raising of cattle and horses is tlie main 
 employment of the people, living in those parts where 
 the surface is fiat, and the soil wet and thin ; there are 
 situations where the cotton plant will not thrive. Much 
 of the region bordering on the Mermentau, Calcasiu and 
 Sabine rivers, is of this description. There are prodigious 
 stocks of cattle reared, with ^neat profit to the proprie- 
 tors, who furnisli the New-Orleans market with beef, but- 
 ter and cheese. The climate is so moderate, the cattle 
 subsist, winter and summer, entirely on the extensive 
 ranges which the spacious prairas constitute, abounding 
 in wild praira grass, and sometimes in cane brakes. — 
 The horses of the country are the descendant of the 
 Andalusian and Numidian race. Like their ancestors, 
 they are small, compactly and vigorously bui|t, and cal- 
 culated to endure labor and fatigue almost beyond con- 
 ception. The cattle are as distinguishable from those of 
 the northern states, as if they were a distinct species : 
 they are sleek as moles, nimble and high mettled, and 
 elegantly formed ; their flesh is well flavored and good, 
 but tiieir lacteal depositories are so small, that they aftbrd 
 but little milk. 
 
 It is rare in this country that cattle are either fed, 
 salted or sheltered.^ The want of sheds and food in 
 winter have occasionally, in cold storms, proved destruc- 
 tive to the stocks ; one-foartli of which, after the severe 
 
;^6 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 snow storm of January, 1812, perished. It would seem, 
 from the liability to these casualties, that stock proprie- 
 tors ought to provide shelter and foiage for the emergen- 
 cies of extraordinary seasons. 
 
 In Opelousas, most of the i)lantcr3 raise some sheep — . 
 the mutton is excellent, but the wool is coarse. It re- 
 mains yet a doubt how far, in this climate, the fleece 
 could be ameliorated by crossing the old, or producing 
 new breeds. It is supposed that the large tracts of pine 
 lands, which are of too dry and sterile a soil for cultiva- 
 tion, would afford fine pasturage for sheep. 
 
 It has been observed, that climates do not precisely 
 conform to the parallels of latitude. A line drawn from 
 the junction of the Coosa and Tallapoosa rivers, in Ala- 
 bama, about Sa** 30' north lat. to the mouth of the Sabine, 
 nearly in latitude 29° 30' excepting the borders of the 
 Mississsippi, it has been thpught, would cross the inter- 
 mediate region where prevailed nearly the same tempera- 
 ture of atmosphere,and consequently tlie same climates. 
 The exception to the borders of the Mississippi, from SO 
 to 40 miles in width, both sides inclusive, is formed from 
 the expansion of cool air, which from the more northern 
 regions rushes, without obstruction, down the river.p— 
 Between the extremities of this oblique imaginary line, 
 supposed to designate the identity of climate, we perceive 
 a difference of three degrees of latitude. This curious 
 phenomenon may be traced to the encroachment of the 
 ocean, south of the Mobile coast, on the land, a degree 
 further north, than to the westward of the Mississippi ; 
 to the shelter on the north, afforded by the ridge of hills 
 dividing the waters of the Mobile ; to a continuous, thick 
 forest of evergreens, stretching eastwardly and west* 
 wardly north of the Mobile, and perhaps also to the sa»- 
 
 diness 
 naturai 
 rays. 
 
 Nort 
 of dera, 
 boundai 
 kingdoii 
 distingu 
 various 
 at 45°, h 
 of this i\] 
 »ents, se 
 not satisi 
 tural phil 
 A profi 
 tlie trees 
 for the ol 
 and as th 
 be furnisl 
 Wesul 
 gr wing i 
 Rec' flowe 
 wood, bla 
 cherry, ha( 
 wood, cypi 
 butternut \ 
 nutmeg hie 
 spice woot 
 laurel, mul 
 cotton woo 
 oak, black 
 post oak, \ 
 nmcilagino 
 
 ^J 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 g37 
 
 diness of the soil in wliich the evergreens flourish, that 
 naturally increase heat, from the reflections of the sun's 
 rays. 
 
 Nort!\ latitude 33° is found, in North America, a line 
 of (lemarkation, forming an important distinguishable 
 boundary between different climates, where the vegetable 
 kingdom is clothed with dissimilar habiliments. This 
 distinguishable line, which seems so much to separate 
 various classes of trees and plants, in Europe is found 
 at 45°, being eight degrees further north. The reason 
 of this difference between the eastern and western conti- 
 nents, seems to remain among the arcara of nature, yet 
 not satisfactorily accounted for, on the princinles of na- 
 tural philosophy. 
 
 A proficient in the science of botany, wouldfind among 
 tiie trees and plants in the eastern section of Opelousas, 
 for the object of curious speculation, as great a variety, 
 and as thrifty and exuberant a growth, as, perhaps, could 
 be furnished by any portion of the globe, of equal extent. 
 
 We subjoin a list of the vast variety of forest trees, 
 gi^ wing in the Attacapas and Opelousas region— viz. 
 Rec' flowering maple, box elder, sorrel tree, pawpaw, iron 
 wood, black birch, catalpa, horn beam, chincopin, wild 
 cherry, hackberry, laurier almond, dogwood, swamp dog- 
 wood, cypress, persimmon, beech, ash, honey locust, holly, 
 butternut hickory, water hickory, thick shell bark hickory, 
 nutmeg hickory, pignut hickory, black walnut, sassafras, 
 8pice wood, red bay, sweet gum, poplar, white bay, large 
 laurel, mulberry, tupeloo, black gum, buckeye, pitch pine, 
 cotton wood, sycamore, white oak, water oak, Spanish 
 oak, black jack oak, swamp maple oak, over cup oak, 
 post oak, willow oak, red oak, black oak, downy linden, 
 mucilaginous elm, red elm, swamp elm. 
 
S38 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 Of all the species included in the foregoing list of 
 trees, those of the most extraordinary size may, perhaps, 
 be found between praira Bellevue and the Iiill of Baton 
 Rouge. 
 
 In addition to the larger growth, is an indefinite vari- 
 ety of vines, under wood and shrubbery — such as Spanish 
 mulberry, prickly sumach, muscadine, grape vine, white 
 wood, pond wood, white thorn, blackberry, dewberry, 
 several species of the smilax, and many others. On the, 
 banks of the streams, extensive brakes of great cane, anil 
 on the outer margin of the cane, the palmetto, or latania, 
 fill the slope between tiie cane and the inundated lands. 
 These vegetables are indubitable evidence of a strong, 
 rich soil. 
 
 JVorthwest section of the state of Louisiana, including 
 the parishes of JVatchitoches, Ocatahoola, Concord' 
 Rapide and Avoyelles.— 'This section of country is bo 
 ded north by latitude 33° ; west by a meridian line from 
 33° to 32° ; southwest by the Sabine river ; south by the 
 parallel of 31° and on Opelousas. 
 Face of the country, Rivers, Lakes, Soil, Timber growth, 
 Vegetable and Mineral productions. 
 
 The Sabine drains its head waters about lat- 32° 50' 
 flowing southeast to the southwest angle of the parish of j 
 Natchitoches ; thence to Sabine lake, near the Gulf, its j 
 course is southwestwardly. Between Natchitoches, on 
 Red river, and the Sabine, the surface is broken into hills; 
 the timber chiefly pine, black oak, sweet gum, and various 
 species of hickory. On the route from the Sabine, near 
 Natchitoches, pine is the prevailing growth. Above the 
 Spanish lake, on the borders of lands inundated by Red| 
 river, the pine growth in a manner ceases, and is suc- 
 ceeded by oak and hickory ; the country broken, in somel 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 239 
 
 1st of 
 haps, 
 Baton 
 
 » vavi- 
 panisli 
 , white 
 vberrv, 
 On tlu'. 
 ne, ami 
 latania, 
 I lands, 
 strong, 
 
 icludins 
 ncord' 
 is bo 
 ine from 
 h by the 
 
 s:rowth, 
 
 32° 50' 
 >arish of] 
 [Gulf, its 
 )ches, on I 
 ito hills; 1 
 Id various I 
 line, near I 
 ibovethe 
 by Red] 
 is sue- 
 I, in some I 
 
 ])lacp« stony; the hills not high, but steep; the bottoms 
 often fertile, but of moderate extent. The lakes of Red 
 river are fed by many streams of pure water, among 
 which \ii Bayou Pierre, which Hows from the adjacent 
 hills. None of these streams are i25 mdes in length. 
 The most abundant growth is black hickory. Extensive 
 Hats, l-.owever, occur, of post oak, always growing on a 
 poor, wet soil. Between the Sabine and Red rivers, tJie 
 ridge dividing the waters that flow into either, is nearly 
 equidistant. West of the settlements of Bayou Pierre, 
 eight nnles, pine prevails, interspersed with black jack 
 ridges : surface broken, soil poor j on the hills, sandy and 
 rocky. 
 
 Here is suflicient bottom land, rich and arable, t6 ad- 
 mit of extensive settlements. The timber is 1 uge and 
 valuable. The eastern side of the Sabine, from its head 
 to the Gulf, is low, and more subject to inundation than 
 on the west bank. Upon the Sabine the growth is pine, 
 black oak, red oak, white oak, black hickory, sweet gum, 
 black gum, ash, beech and dogwood. Cane abounds on 
 the margin of the river, but is rather of stinted growth. 
 Towards Opelousas pine increases, and below 32° to the 
 prairas of Mermentau and Calcasiu, excepting the mar- 
 gins of streams, it is one continuous pine forest. 
 
 Within about 30 miles, on a direct line, after Red river 
 enters the state, it spreads into a number of channels and 
 lakes, forming an inundated swamp six miles wide and 
 fifty long. The river is never after united in a compact 
 column, till it mingles with the Mississippi. 
 
 Above Natchitoches, the soil and surface, east of Red 
 river, is far preferable to that of the west. The creek 
 bottoms are wider and richer than those towards the Sa- 
 bine. The hills higher, and more gradual in the ascent. 
 
mm 
 
 mm 
 
 ho 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 At low water, the more prominent i)arts are presented 
 in the form of various islands ; at high, the appearance 
 of a spacious lake is exhibited. The expanse of over- 
 flowed waters on Red river is evidently of recent origin. 
 In Nachitoches, Spanish^ Black, Kastinean and Bodau 
 lakes, ruins of the cypress tree remain. The wood of 
 this tree is almost imperishable : the stumps immerged 
 in these lakes, prove it had its growth there before the 
 lakes were, formed, wiiere the water in the dryest seasons 
 is now from 10 to 15 feet deep. Tlie valley through 
 which Red river flows, must have Been filled up by 
 the alluvion deposited above the bottom of the creeks 
 entering that river; by which means the lakes have 
 been formed on those tributaries, near the main river. 
 
 In the peninsula, formed f9y Red and Washita, rivers, 
 several small streams take their rise, some of which 
 flow into the one, and some into the other of those rivers. 
 Of those which mingle with Red river, the Bodcau, 
 Dacheet, Black Lake, the Sabine, and Hietan rivers are 
 tlie principal ; those flowing to the Waphita, are Der- 
 bane,and the united streams of Dogdomoni and Little 
 river. Upon all these streams the soil and timber growth 
 are nearly similar. 
 
 The resemblance of the surface of the earth, through- 
 out the state of Louisiana, to the segment of a circle, 
 is proved by the extent of stagnant waters, on each of the 
 foregoing rivers, caused by the rise of the Mississippi ; 
 at low water, severally flowing with considerable veloci^ 
 ty ; at high, when the Mississippi and Red rivers are 
 swollen by floods, the other streams are stagnant almost 
 to their sources. The country, though hilly, appears 
 not to consist of a gradual rise from the ocean, but to 
 swell Jrom a plain. 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 g41 
 
 There 'are various indications of iron ore. The base 
 of the hills consist of sand stone and slate. Water worn 
 pebbles compose the upper strata in some parts. Salt 
 springs abound on all the tributaries, between Washita 
 and Red rivers, from two or three of whicli considerable 
 quantities of salt are made. At Postleth wait's, a quantity 
 adequate to any demand, which the country might re- 
 quire, could be ma'Je. The inhabitants are now sup- 
 plied with excellent salt at the praira, at from one to two 
 dollars per barrel. Upon the Washita and Dogdomoni, 
 are excellent springs. 
 
 Tlic best lands, bordering on the south side of Red 
 river, within the state, have been disposed of ; on the 
 north, the most va uable still remain unappropriated. — 
 Of the latter tract, is an extensive body of a supeiior 
 quality, on the creeks, which flow ?nto Dacheet river 
 and lake Bistineau ; also upon the waters of the Der- 
 bane, Bl ck lake. Little and Sabine 'i vers, west; and 
 upon the Tensaw, Macon. Boeuf, and some smaller 
 streams, east of Washita. 
 
 The east of lake Bistineau, upon the creeks which en- 
 ter that lake, and upon the margin of the lake are of dif- 
 ferent characters. The bottoms are occasionally spa- 
 cious, and of a good soil. This^is the only situation 
 within the state, where the bottom lands, properly so 
 called, are arable. The banks of the Mississppi, and of 
 most of the streams entering it from the west, a id some 
 on the east, generally incline from the strer ii, exhibit- 
 ing an aspect different from those on the Ohio, and on 
 the Atlantic rivers : the banks of the latter inclining 
 towards the streams by which they are intersected. The 
 aide of the hills east of lake Bistineau, consist of lands 
 ^vhich may be considered of a second rate soil ; the 
 
 W 
 
^z 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 growth, pine, Mack oak, red oak, ash, black hickory and 
 dogwood. !t is supposed this soil would be congenial to 
 wheat and other small grains : as also to fruit trees and 
 grapevines. It abounds with fine springs of water. It 
 remains yet an entire wilderness. 
 
 Of a similar character to the lands east of lake Bisti- 
 neau, though of less extent, is that of the peninsula be- 
 tween the Red and Washita rivers. 
 
 This peninsula, below 33° north latitude, is intersect- 
 ed by a chain of high hills, which puts out in several 
 projections ; of which, one of the most prominent, enters 
 the state of Louisiana, and after proceeding about 15 
 miles, within the state, ramifies into three branches; the 
 western, ratlier west of south, separates the waters that 
 ilow into Dacheet river and lake Bistineau, from those 
 which enter Black lake river ; and finally merges in the 
 level lands of Red river. The middle branch be.-^rs 
 south, dividing the head branches of streams that flow to 
 Black lake river westward, and into Sabine river east- 
 ward ; and disappears in the low lands, near the junc- 
 tion of these tvvo streams. The eastern ridge, diverging 
 southeast ei^lit or ten miles, is parted into two : the south- 
 western of these separates the waters of the Washita 
 from those of Red ri^cr ; bearing southwest 20 miles ; 
 then inclines to the south, continuing, and conforming 
 nearly to the general course of the Red river, tei minutes 
 upon the -yft shore of tliat river, at the Ecore Cliene, 
 about la miles southeast of the town of Ale\;;ti(li ia. The 
 northeastern brand., bearing southeri^i, between the 
 watersof Dfibane and tliose of n')p;(n,>n\oni and Little 
 rivers, reaches witliin two miles of t^lu Washita, at 32" 18' 
 nortlj latitude ; tbvn follows +l»at river, preserving a 
 distance of two or three miles from its margin, and finally 
 
ial to 
 i and 
 
 r. It 
 
 Bisti- 
 la be- 
 
 M'sect- 
 icveral 
 enters 
 3Ut 15 
 !S ; the 
 rs that 
 \ those 
 s in the 
 h ber>TS 
 flow to 
 er cast- 
 e junc- 
 verging 
 e south- 
 Vashita 
 miles ; 
 Iforming 
 minutes 
 C'liene, 
 The 
 »en the 
 Little 
 32° 18' 
 Irving a 
 k finally 
 
 LOtJISIANA. 
 
 ms 
 
 Sinks into the level alluvion, at the court house of Octa- 
 hoola, at 31° 42' north latitude. 
 
 The river Washita has a clear, beautiful, gentle cur- 
 rent, much resembling, but smaller than the Ohio. The 
 head sources of the Washita make their appearance in 
 about 34° north latitude and 18° 30' west longitude. — 
 The courses of the upper streams of the Washita, are 
 southeast 60 or 70 miles ; thence east 100 miles, where 
 three branches unite ; and continuing east 20 miles. Hot 
 Spring creek falls in from the northeast. Mr. Dunbar 
 and Dr. Hunter, having minutely explored this part of 
 the Washita country, ascertained the geological struc- 
 ture near the Hot Springs, to be composed of secondary 
 materials, scliistous sand stone. The Masserne moun- 
 tains, which give rise to the Washita, are found to not 
 be of great elevation ; but having been imperfectly ex- 
 plored, their composition is not well ascertained. 
 
 The country drained by the head waters of the ^^^1sh- 
 ita, is sterile praira, or broken, rocky, mountainous land. 
 The country adjacent to the Hot Springs, h are on 
 the south side of the mountain, is barren. The counfty 
 around these springs, being elevated and possessing a 
 pure air, is considered very healthy. Persons afflicted 
 with pulmonary complaints, obtain great relief by resort- 
 ing to these springs. Whether the change of air, or the 
 medicinal quality of the water, most contributes to re- 
 store health, is not certain. 
 
 Below the mouth of Hot Spring, Washita flows south, 
 25 miles, and receives the tribute of Fourcheau Cado, 
 which flows from the west ; and about the same distance 
 further south, the Little Missouri. These two rivers 
 issue from the spurs of the Masserne, and flowing nearly 
 easti meander through considerable tracts of valuable 
 
mmm 
 
 ^4 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 lands. Some praira of moderate extent, and of a poor, 
 thin soil, occur. 
 
 The Saline branch of the Washita rises 12 miles 
 southeast of the Hot Springs ; and flowing 150 miles, 
 joins the Washita a little north o( Louisiana. Land^ on 
 the Saline, have a thin, poor soil. 
 
 The liartlttlemy finds its source 30 miles southeast 
 of the head waters of the Saline ; pursuing a course 
 nearly parallel to which it joins the Washita at 32° 40' 
 nortli latitutle. The Barthelemy winds its course 
 tlirough an excellent tract of land, particularly near 
 its mouth. Before reaching the Washita, the Barthele- 
 my is joined by an ancient outlet, the Bayou Siard, of 
 the former stream. This outlet, after flowing in its 
 course, about 25 miles, joins the Washita, three miles 
 above Fort Miro. 
 
 Grant made by the Spanish Government to Baron 
 Bastrop. — This tiact lies northeast from Bayou Siard, 
 ard derives importance from its great extent, consisting 
 of twelve leagues square. The soil is of various qualities. 
 Besides Washita and Bayou Siard, which forms the 
 western boundaiy, it is ti'aversed by Barthelemy, Bon 
 Idee, and Macon rivers. There are three prairas from 
 three t j four miles long, and two broad : Praira de 
 Bute, ou the right bank of Barthelemy ; Jefierson and 
 Mer Rouge, between the Bcjeuf and Barthelemy river. 
 Notwithstanding Bastrop's grar»i, taken in the aggregate^ 
 cannot be esteemed a fertile body of land, yet the prairas, 
 and tiie margins of the streams, are generally covered 
 with an excellent soil. Considerable settlements have 
 been made. The seat of justice for the parish of Wash- 
 ita is established in Praira Mer Rouge. Many settle- 
 ments may be found oh tlie banks of the Barthelemy, as 
 
tOUISlAKA. 
 
 ^J 
 
 also in Praira Jefferson. Althougli farms are scattered 
 over most parts of the gi'ant, large portions of good land 
 remain vacant. Pine forests generally, on the surface 
 flat, sometimes marshy, intervene between the streams. 
 
 Cotton and tobacco, mainly the former, with which 
 the soil and climate are congenial, are the staple pro- 
 ductions : maize, the small grains, and most garden 
 vegetables flourish. The fig and peach tree, whicli here 
 produce fine flavored fruit, have been successfully cul- 
 tivated. Vine fruits, such as meloiis, pumpkins, cucum- 
 bers and squashes, are found to be productive in this 
 soil. 
 
 The following is a list of the most valuable forest trees 
 growing, not only on Bastrop's Grant, but in the adjacent 
 region, viz : hackberry, wild cherry, cypress, persim- 
 mon, beech, ash, honey locust, bitternut hickory, thick 
 shell bark hickory, black walnut, sassafras, large laurel 
 tupiloo, black gum, pitch pine, cotton wood, sycamore, 
 white oak, black oak, linden, locust, mucilaginous elm, 
 and red elm. 
 
 Tlie Grant to the Marquis Maison -Row^^, commences 
 about five miles below Fort Miro, in latitude about 32® 
 30', extending down the Washita, 40 miles on both sides 
 of tL;j stream, nearly conforming to the course as it runs. 
 Most of the lands in this grant remain unoccupied. 
 
 The soil, in no portion of Louisiana, exceeds in quality 
 this part of the banks of the Washita. The cotton plant 
 grows here luxuriantly, which is the prevailing staple 
 production. Both the surface and the soil are greatly 
 diversified. The lands east of the Washita, bear a strong 
 resemblance to the alluvial soils in Louisiana ; an arable 
 border of nearly one half mile wide, generally skirting 
 the stream; to this succeeds the overflowed surfaces 
 
246 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 which spreads out towards the Bon Idee river. Tl>c 
 margin of the west side of Washita, is also alluvial, but 
 more limited. A range of hills, connected with one be- 
 fore mentioned, parting the waters of Red from Washita 
 river, winds along the west side of the latter stream. 
 This ridge reaches Maison Rouge's grant, nearly ten 
 miles below its highest cx^roraity, and conforming to the 
 general course of tlie river, extends by the Washita 
 through the grant. The front of the ridge, facing the 
 river, is bold and abrupt, gently descending westward. 
 
 The timber differs not essentially, from that on the 
 grant of Bastrop : on boti), it is good and abundant. 
 Few situations can furnish more pleasant and conveni- 
 ent establishments, than could be formed in many places 
 on the Washita. The alluvial banks, and the elevated 
 spots in the rear, afford a great diversity for selection. 
 The Washita is navigable for large boats at all times of 
 the year, except the season be very dry. 
 
 Sugar excepted, all the vegetable productions which 
 can be raised in any part of Louisiana, will flourish on 
 the Washita. 
 
 All our remarks on the lands of the Washita, vill 
 equally apply to the regions watered by the Bceuf, Ma- 
 con and Tensaw. 
 
 Numerous saw mills are in operation, on Little river, 
 which prepare large quantities of lumber for New-Or- 
 leans market. 
 
 Topography. — The nortliwest section of the state of 
 Louisiana contains the following parishes, viz. JSTatchi- 
 toche.Sy Rapides, Ocatahoola, Concordia and Jlvoijelhs. 
 
 Natchitoches occupies the northwest angle of the state, 
 embracing land watered by Red, Sabine and Calcasiu 
 rivci's ; with Texas on the west, Sabine southwest, and 
 
LOUISIANA. 
 
 ^47 
 
 Opelousas soutli. The town is situated on the west bank 
 of Red river, 31° 46' north latitude, 407 miles from New- 
 Orleans by water. Here was established a military 
 post in 1717. The buildings first erected, were about a 
 mile from the present village. The remains of the old 
 fort and garden are still visible. This place derives an 
 importance from its position ; it being a most central 
 and convenient point for trade with the province of 
 Texas. Fort Claiborne, which is garrisoned with sol- 
 diers, is built on one of t!^e pine hills, which approaches 
 within 200 yards of the river. The waters of Red river 
 are brackish ; but copious springs of good water are 
 found near Natchitoclies. This is the most considerable 
 town in Louisiana, west of the Mississippi : the present 
 number of inhabitants, exclusive of the garrison, exceed- 
 ing 600. 
 
 Ttle parish of Rapides lies principally in the valley of 
 Red river, and extends to the river Washita. In soil 
 and productions, it is much like the parish of Natchito- 
 ches. 
 
 Alexandria stands on the west bank of Red river, half 
 a mile below the rapids ; at low water, the head of barge 
 navigation. 31° 19' north latitude. 344 miles by water 
 from New-Orleans. It is a flourishing village. The set- 
 tlements around the town are wealthy, and considerably 
 extensive. By some it has been supposed, that Rapide 
 contained more valuable land, for the extent, than any 
 parish in the state. 
 
 The parishes of Octahoola and Washita lie upon the 
 river Washita ; neither of which contains any consider- 
 able town. 
 
 Concordia stretches out extensively on the west hank 
 of the Mississippi, oce^ipying an inclined plane : all li» 
 
S48 
 
 LOUISIANA. 
 
 soil is alluvial, and of an excellent quality ; but much ot 
 it inundated : cotton, which grows luxuriantly, the only 
 staple. The town of Concordia, opposite Natchez, is the 
 seat ctf justice, but of little commercial importance. 
 
 Avoyelles lies in an irregular circuitous bend of Red 
 river, at the mouth. The settlements are mostly in the 
 praira, which is high, and by flood waters is occasionally 
 surrounded. All the arable lands are excellent, a large 
 portion of which remain public property. Cotton and 
 maize are the chief objects of culture. There is no town 
 in the parish. The most convenient seasons of approacii- 
 ing this part of the countiy are the months of September, 
 October and November. 
 
TEXAS. 
 
 Our speculations on the western country were in- 
 tendec^ to be confined to the regions west of the Allega- 
 nies, within the jurisdiction of the United States. But 
 the proximity, and great extent of the province of Texas, 
 on the western borders of the American republic ; tlic 
 peculiar circumstances attending the discovery and set* 
 tlement of that province ; the contested claims for juris* 
 diction, between the French and Spaniards ; ^nd the in^ 
 definite limits of Louisiana, at the time of its cession to 
 the United States, seem to render a general view of that 
 province not incompatible with the scope of our design* 
 
 Texas is bounded west and southwest by the Rio 
 Grand del Norte ; southeast by the Gulf of Mexico ; east 
 by the state of Louisiana ; northeast and nortli (accord- 
 ing to the late Spanish treaty) by Red river to 100' w«»jt 
 longitude from London ; thence due north to the Arkan- 
 &aw ; thence up the Arkansaw to latitude 42° ; tli«ace 
 due west to a point intersected by a right lioe drawn 
 from the source of the Rio Grand del Norte— presenting 
 the form of an irregular triangle, whose acute angle is 
 formed by a line from the sources of the Rio Grand del 
 Norte, protracted, in the course of that streaso, to the pa- 
 rallel of 42° north latitude, running west. The greatest 
 length of this province exceeds 800 miles, and its great- 
 
g50 
 
 TEXAS. 
 
 \ 
 
 est breadth 500. It embraces a surface of 400,000 square 
 miles ; an extent more spacious than the aggregate con- 
 tents of the states of New-York, New-Jersey, Pennsylva- 
 nia, Maryland, Virginia, Kentucky and Ohio 
 
 After the French had taken possession of the region 
 bordering on the Mississippi, by right of discovery, La 
 Salle, a Frenchman from Canada, in 1683, landed at the 
 mouth of Guadaloupe, a small river which flows from the 
 interior of Texas into the Gulf of Mexico, and explored 
 the country on that stream. Not till 31 years after, in 
 1714, did the Spaniards cross the del Norte, from the 
 west into Texas. They made no settlement there until 
 1717, when they occupied the Adayes. About the same 
 time, the French made an establishment at Natchitoches, 
 only nine miles distant. These two posts were held by 
 the respective governments — the French always claiming 
 all the country east of the Rio del Norte, as a part of 
 Louisiana, by right of the first discovery, until the rati- 
 fication of the treaty of 1762, when France ceded Loui- 
 siana to Spain. 
 
 The soil of Texas is generally, in fertility, much infe- 
 rior to that which is spread over the region watered by 
 the streams of the Mississippi and Red river. A large 
 portion of the former consists- of open plains devoid of 
 woods; opening a passage for the winds from the north ; 
 whereby the same parallels of latitude are rendered 
 cooler than further to the east. The climate is, however, 
 generally temperate, and favorable to the health of the 
 human constitution. 
 
 Considered in the whole, as one region, it cannot pro- 
 perly be said of Texas, that the soil is fertile. It con- 
 tains, notwithstanding, many extensive tracts of excel- 
 lent land. 
 
 m^ 
 
/ 
 
 TEXAS. 
 
 25i 
 
 The borders of Red river, and the margins of several 
 other considerable streams, will admit of good settle- 
 ments through the whole extent of their respective 
 courses. Much of the interior, though denuded of wood, 
 far from market, will furnish valuable ranges for the 
 rearing of cattle. 
 
 Between Red river and tlie Rio Graiid del Norte, in- 
 cluding those rivers, there is a remarkable uniformity in 
 the course of the streams : their direction towards the 
 ocean is southeast. After this manner flows the Nueces, 
 Guadaloupe, Colorado, Brassos a Dios, Sabine and Cal- 
 casiu. Some of the best harbors in the Gulf of Mexico, 
 lie between the Sabine and the Rio Grand del Norte. 
 
 If, by the laws of nations, as applicable to national 
 rights acquired by discovery or preoccupancy, the limits 
 of the country called Louisiana, under all circumstances, 
 ought to be so extended as to embrace the province of 
 Texas, at the time of its cession by the French to the 
 Spaniards, in the treaty of 1762 ; it clearly follows, that 
 the United States are now entitled to that province, by 
 the treaty of 1803. But, even admitting the claim of 
 the United States to that country could not be urged, on 
 the principles of national law, the dictates of sound poli- 
 cy would direct Spain to consent to the establishment 
 of the Rio Grand diil Norte, for a permanent boundary 
 between the territories of the two governments. This 
 river is but of small national imp.ortance. It Is a long 
 stream, with but few tributaries, sparingly supplied with 
 water for its length, and bordered, most of its course, by 
 lands naturally barren — presenting a continuous dreary, 
 wide chasm, on either side, which aftbrds no indue* uicnts 
 to occupancy or cultivation. Its banks, therefore, if at 
 all Inhabited, must be occupied by a very thm popula- 
 
252 
 
 TEXAS. 
 
 tion. Thus here has nature seemed to have prescribed 
 a space, almost as distinguishable for a national boundary, 
 as an extended range of impassable mountains, or abroad 
 expanse of fathomless waters. Yet such has been the 
 moderation and pacific polity of the American republic, 
 that in their late projet for a treaty with Spain, they 
 waived their claim to Texas : but the treaty not being 
 ratified on the part of Spain, the discussion is still open, 
 and t!ic waiver may be considered as resumed. 
 
MICHIGAN TERRITORY. 
 
 This temtoiy in length is 510 miles, in breadth 180; 
 i\nd is situated between 41° 31' and 46"> 59' north lati- 
 tude, and between 5° and 9° west longitude. It is bound- 
 ed south by the states of Indiana and Ohio ; east by lakes 
 El ie, St. Clair and Huron ; nortli by lake Superior ; and 
 west by lake Michipian ; and contains about 30,000 squar« 
 miles. 
 
 The southern boundary begins at tlie eastern short, 
 abo 't 15 miles fiom the southern bend of lake Miclugan ; 
 thence due east tu the line between Indiana and Oliio ; 
 *hei<ce, on that line, south, to about 41" 31',; thence due 
 east over the Maumce, threi' miles above Perrysb'"*',?! or 
 Fort Meigs, on to lake Erie, seven or eight miles from 
 ilic mouth of Portage river, and about IG miles from San- 
 dusky Bay. 
 
 The eastern boundary fr6m the southern line, traverses 
 the head of lake Erie, passes by an undefined line through 
 the rivers Detroit and St. Clair into lake Huron, over 
 the middle waters of that lake, to the mouth of the strait 
 of St. Marys, into lake Superior, and over the middle 
 watets of that lake, till it cuts a line dr? vn perpendicu- 
 larly from the southern bend over the middle waters of 
 lake Michigan across into lake Superior; which per- 
 pendicular line is the western boundary of the Michigan 
 territory. 
 
^^54 
 
 MICHIGAN TERRITORY. 
 
 The following columns exhibit the counties and chiel 
 towns in the territory : 
 
 Counties. Towns. Counties. Towns. 
 
 Wayne, - Detroit. Munroe, - Munroe. 
 
 Macomb, - Mount Clement. Oakland, - Pontiac. 
 Mackinaw, Mackinaw. 
 
 According to the census of 1810 the whole population 
 was 4,762 ; at present it is supposed to be 12,000. 
 
 Detroit is the metropolis. It stands on Detroit it»er, 
 in latitude 42'' 25' and longitude west 5° 23'. The set- 
 tlement of this town was commenced in 1680. It was 
 occupied merely as a military post, and has been a gi at 
 resort for Indian traders, before and since it was placed 
 under the jurisdiction of the United States. The town 
 occupies an elevated, romantic situation, on the bank of 
 the river, containing about 300 buildings of all descrip- 
 tions. More than half of the inhabitants are French- 
 The public buildings are a jail, council house, and a Uni- 
 ted States' store : the latter a neat brick building, 80 feet 
 by 30, three stories high. In 1813 it was filled with the 
 trophies of war from the Thames. The town is in a flour- 
 ishing condition, carries on a brisk trade, and is much 
 resorted to by Indians. 
 
 Face of the couvtry, soil, S^'c. — This country is desti- 
 tute of mountains. The interior may be considered ta- 
 ble lanu, sloping eastwardly and northwardly, diversified 
 with many small lakes, and tlivers places are interspersed 
 with extensive marslies, which feed the head branches of 
 rivers. 
 
 Large tracts of praira art spreiid over many parts of 
 this territory ; of which somi*. aie covered with an excel- 
 lent soil, others are sandy, wet and sterile *. the timbered 
 tractb are, however, spacious ; the growth, oak, sugar roi(< 
 
and chiet 
 
 ^owns. 
 
 funroe. 
 
 ontiac. 
 
 topulation 
 000. 
 
 roit i»*t:r, 
 The set- 
 ». It was 
 in a gi at 
 as placed 
 Tlie town 
 le bank of 
 II descrip- 
 e French- 
 nd a Uni- 
 ig, 80 feet 
 1 with the 
 in a flour- 
 is much 
 
 Y is desti- 
 dered ta- 
 iversified 
 ersperscd 
 anciies of 
 
 r parts of 
 an excel- 
 timbered 
 lugar mK- 
 
 MICHMJAN TERKITORY. 
 
 259 
 
 pie, beecli, ash, poplar, white and yellow pine, buckeye, 
 lynn, hickory, cedar, plumb, crab apple, cherry, black and 
 honey locust. The bottoms and high prairas are gen- 
 erally of a superior quality. 
 
 Much of the Michigan lake is bordered by high sweHs, 
 composed of sand, thrown up by tlie winds and waves. 
 The wood lands, when cleared ofll' and cultivated, arc 
 productive of most kinds of grain, afid are covered with 
 a sir'>ng and durable soil. 
 
 Lakes and Bays, — The territory of Michigan embraces 
 about one tenth of lake Eric ; a third of lake Huron ; a 
 small pari of hike Superior ; and half of lake Michigan. 
 North north >^'st of Detroit, within the interior, is a cluster 
 of beautiful lakes, of various dimensions, from an area of 
 100 to 1000 acres each. They form reservoirs for the 
 head branches of various streams, wnich flow from neaf 
 the territory into the great lak«8, which nearly surround 
 it. 
 
 Of the bays, the principal which indent the coasts, are 
 the Maumeo, Sagana and Thunder bay. The former is 
 at the mouth of the Maumee, expanding from a width, 
 near its mouth, of six miles, to double that width, and 
 then contracting gradually for twelve or fifteen miles to 
 the common space of the river. 
 
 Sagana bay projects from lake Huron on the northeast 
 shere of the territory, nearly south, a little inclining to 
 the west ; extern*! ag in length, forty miles, with a breadth 
 of from eight to twelve miles ; and extends, with a more 
 narrow space, many mile<! further back. 
 
 lyiunder bay is further up, on the »>ame coast, and was 
 said to be remarkable, when Carver traverb>d that region, 
 for almost continual thunder ; an occurence which mod- 
 ern travellers have lot noticed. 
 
25Q 
 
 MICHIGAN TERRITORY. 
 
 The rivers of Michigan are numerous ; manj of which 
 are navigable almost to their head branches. The first 
 fiver of consequence, as you proceed northwardly on the 
 eastern coast, is the Raisin, memorable for the defeat of 
 General Winchester's detachment, in the late war. The 
 «ommon width near its mouth, is about 50 yards. It is 
 navigable nearly seven miles, to Munroe, a new town, 
 near where Winchester surrendered. There a short ra- 
 pid breaks the current; above which it is Uoatable SO. of 
 40 miles. It tinds its source among the marshes, 60 miles 
 west of its mouth. These marshes spread out about 20 
 miles from the southern boundary line. This river inter- 
 locks with the St. Josephs, and receives the tribute of the 
 Macon, 15 miles from the mouth of the Raisin. To the 
 mouth of the Macon, from within two miles of the lake, 
 chi tlie Raisin, settlements have been made, mostly by 
 Frenchmen ; wiio raise an abundance of wheat, corn, po- 
 tatoes, and fruits of various kinds. The soil on the bot- 
 toms is ricli and durable; but much of the upland is 
 light and sandy. Several grist and sawmills hare been 
 erected on the river. The inhabitants, of whom some 
 have been residents for 30 years, hare generally enjoyed 
 fnio. health. From the Raisin to the mouth of the Mau- 
 mce is 18 mile*. Within tiii* space several small streams 
 arc found ; on some of which are gowl mill seats. 
 
 The Huron of lake Erie, or lower Huron, flows into 
 lake Erie a short distance from the mouth of Detroit 
 river, and draws its heatl waters near the small lakes in 
 the interior. It is deoj) and gentle, from 20 to 30 yards 
 wide for niany-inilcs up, and lioatable for 50 or 60 miles. 
 
 The river Rougo flows into Detroit river five miles be- 
 low Detroit, and draws its head streams from the small 
 prairas f20 or 30 luilcs "lorih-northwest of that place. It 
 
MICHIGAN TERRITORY. 
 
 257 
 
 which 
 »e fiiRt 
 on the 
 feat of 
 . The 
 It is 
 towi», 
 lort ia- 
 e 30. OH 
 iO miles 
 30ut 20 
 r iiitei- 
 e of the 
 To the 
 lie lake, 
 3stly by 
 ovn, po- 
 tha bot- 
 iland is 
 been 
 some 
 njoyed 
 e Mau- 
 treams 
 
 Ice* 
 
 is navigable for vessels of large burthen, many miles ; 
 on which is a dock yard five miles from its mouth. The 
 margins of this river are spread out into spacious rich bot- 
 toms ; on which many large sycamore and black walnut 
 trees are found. The Indian title to most of these lands 
 has been extinguished. 
 
 The river Huron of St. Clair, or upper Huron, dis- 
 charges into lake St. Clair, about 20 miles above Detroit, 
 and takes its rise from among the small inteiior lakes. 
 This is a beautiful stream, flowing down 20 or SO miles 
 from Pontiac to the lake, with a rapid, clear and almost 
 unbroken current. The banks occupy some of the best 
 land in the territory. Twenty years have elapsed since 
 the French here made a considerable settlement. Nu- 
 merous Canadian emigrants, from the river Thames, are 
 establishing new homes in this part of the country. The 
 bottoms of the Huron are spacious and fertile ; the growth 
 ST camore, locust, hickory, elm, poplar and maple: the 
 upland is covered with oak, ash, hickory, and some pine. 
 A number of mills have been erected for the accomoda- 
 tion of the settlers. 
 
 Beside the rivers named, are a great number more of 
 intervening smaller streams, that water and variegate 
 those parts of the country, which, since 1818, have been 
 exposed for sale by the general government. Most of 
 these streams aftbrd facilities for the transportation of 
 produce from the interior ; and all of them are means of 
 fertility and agricultural convenience. 
 
 Of those which intersect the country still retained and 
 partially occupied by the Indians, the river Sagana is the 
 most important. It draws its sources from numerous 
 tributary branches, and after flowing from the north of 
 the small lakes, and watering a pleasant country of great 
 fertility, discharges its waters into Sagana Bay. 
 
 x2 
 
mm^mmmmmmm 
 
 358 
 
 MICHIGAN TERRITORY. 
 
 On the western shore of the territory, in proceeding 
 southwardly, divers rivers present themselves, succes- 
 sively, in order, as hereafter named, viz. Pine, Sun-flint, 
 Carpe, Plate, Small Drake, Raspberry, Ministick, Aux 
 Sable or Sandy, St. Nicholas, Rocky, White, Mustiga, 
 Grand, Grape or Raisin, and Calamaza rivers. 
 
 The St. Joseph is a large, beautiful river, drawing its 
 head sources from near some of the tributary streams of 
 the Maumec, affording in easy communication between 
 Detroit, Fort Wayne and lake Michigan, and tliereby 
 promoting the objects of trade with tlie Indians. Tliis 
 stream has a rapid current, interspersed with islands, 
 aftbrding navigable waters to the extent of 150 miles, 
 traversing the territory about 40 miles ; it flows into 
 the southeast end of lake Michigan, through a mouth 200 
 yards wide. Here the Pottawattiinies inhabit the shore, 
 where they catch prodigious quantities of fish. 
 
 Grand river is the largest stream which pays tribute 
 to lake Michigan ; it draws its head waters from the in- 
 terior lakes, interlocking its branches with those of the 
 Raisin, Black river and Sagana. It is described as tra- 
 versing a country interspersed alternately with woods 
 and open prairas, abounding with various species of wild 
 game. It is navigable with small craft to its source, an 
 extent of nearly 140 miles. It flows into lake Michigan, 
 about 80 miles north of the southern extremity. In high 
 water, boats pass from this river to the Huron, and thence 
 into lake Brie. It is said that by a canal, at a small ex- 
 pense, a communication might be opened from this river 
 to the Sagana, that flows to lake Huron. 
 
 Blmk river takes its rise near the Maumee, from small 
 lakes, interlocks with the two St. Josephs, Raisin and 
 Grand rivers, and enters the lake 14 mifes north of the 
 
MICHIGAN TEURITORT. 
 
 S59 
 
 mouth of St. Joseph, with which it runs nearly parallel 
 for 70 miles. The soil on the banks of this stieam, which 
 is convenient for navigation, is represented to be of an 
 excellent quality. Its head branches are occupied by 
 several Indian villages. 
 
 The Detroit, St, Clair and St. ManfSy which might be 
 classed among straits, though not exclusively appertain- 
 ing to the territory, as they constitute some of the most 
 important features of the country, are entitled to a de- 
 scription. 
 
 The Detroit is 28 miies long, and connects lake St. 
 Clair with lake Erie. It is 1100 yards wide at Detroit, 
 enlarging as it descends, and is navigable for vessels of 
 any burden. 
 
 The St. Clair, 50 miles in extent, connects lakes Hu- 
 ron and St. Clair. Its current and depth are nearly the 
 same as the Detroit. A sand bar at its mouth, and a rapid 
 at its head, form considerable impediments to the navi- 
 gation. Vessels heavy laden must be lighted before they 
 pass the bar. A fair wind enables a vessel to ascend the 
 rapids. 
 
 The Straits of Sf. Mary, exceeding the length of 80 
 miles, form a communication between lakes Huron and 
 Superior. This stream embraces many large islands, of 
 undetermined jurisdiction. The Falls, or the Saut of St. 
 Mary, are near the head of the Strait,«ttnd in the distan»:e 
 of 90 yards have a perpendicular descent of about 22 feet. 
 Boats are towed up these rapids without great labor, and 
 descend without peril. The latitude of these falls is 46** 
 89'. 
 
 Island:. TI.c island of Mackinaw is situated north of 
 the penir/ .ala of Michigan, in the straits of Mackinaw, in 
 latitade 45^ 33' north. This island is seven milts in 
 
260 
 
 .^■?. 
 
 MICHIGAN TERRITORY. 
 
 circuit, tlie greater part of wliicli is covered with an im- 
 penetrable thicket of underwood and small trees. The 
 ground, which is of an elliptical form, gradually rises to 
 the height of 150 feet above the lake, 100 yards from the 
 shore. On tliis summit stands fort Holmes, which now 
 presents ono of the most formidable positions in the 
 western country. It is composed of a strong stockade, 
 is neatly built, and exhibits a beautiful appearance from 
 the water. The village, near the fort, contains a Roman 
 Catholic church, and nearly 150 houses, most of which 
 are ordinary buildings, inliabited by Frenchmen. Tiiis 
 place is much resorted to by tlie northwestern traders, 
 who, in the months of June and July, often assemble here 
 to the number of 700 or 800. 
 
 Manitou island, near the northeastern coast of lake 
 Michigan, is six miles long and four miles wide. 
 
 The Beaver Islands consist of a cluster, extending 
 from Grand Traverse Bay nearly across the lake. They 
 are low and sandy, affording shelter to light boats, on 
 , their way to Green Bay. 
 
 Grosse island consists of several thousand acres of 
 valuable alluvial ground, being in length five miles, and 
 in breadth from one to two. It is two miles from Mai- 
 den, and divides the river Detroit into two channels. 
 
 The settlementSt consisting of the white population, 
 have been chiefly made on the strait of Detroit, the rivers 
 Maumee, Raisin, Huron, and lake St. Clair ; they are, 
 however, extended from fort Meigs to lake Huron, in- 
 terrupted occasionally, from three to ten miles ia extent, 
 by woods, or Indian reservations. Where the French 
 are settled, the lots are narrow, houses thick, always 
 fronting the creeks, rivers and lakes. From the river 
 Rouge to lake St. Clair« a distance of 12 miles, the set- 
 
MICHIGAN TERRITORY. 
 
 S6L 
 
 an ini- 
 The 
 ise8 to 
 om the 
 ;h now 
 in tlic 
 ackade, 
 :e from 
 Roman 
 ' which 
 . This 
 traders, 
 t)le here 
 
 of lake 
 
 :tending 
 e. They 
 (oats, on 
 
 ores of 
 lies, and 
 m Mal- 
 lels. 
 tulation, 
 le rivers 
 ley are, 
 iron, in- 
 cxtent, 
 French 
 always 
 he river 
 the set- 
 
 tlements resemble the suburbs of a large town, the hou3es 
 being but 20 rods distant from each other, and much of 
 the way, not so far apart. Considerable settlements have 
 lately been formed on lakes Hurr n and Michigan. 
 
 l^he Indians within the territory have been estimated 
 at 3000 souls. The Ottawas occupy two villages near 
 Maumee baj, and another 6 miles above fort Meigs ; they 
 have also establishments on the river Huron and at 
 L'Arbre Cruche, where they have made greater progress 
 in the arts of civilized life, than the other aborigines.^— 
 They profess the Roman Catholic religion, and have a 
 chapel and a priest. The Miamiea have four or five 
 towns on the head branches of Black river. The Potta- 
 wattimies have a settlement on the river Macon, above 
 the plantations of the French on the Raisin. They also 
 •ccupy two vilfages on the river Rouge, several on tlve 
 St. Joseph, and one on the river Huron, 15 miles from 
 Brownstown. The Wyandots live at Brownstown and 
 Magauga ; in each of the two latter places is a village, 
 containing, in the whole, 44 houses. The Chippewas, 
 on Sagana river, have villages. All the tribes cultivate 
 Indian corn, some of them wheat, garden vegetables and 
 fruit— raise cattle, horses, hogs and poultry : but their 
 •hief means of subsistence is drawn from the woods and 
 the waters. 
 
 Wild ^nimah, Fowls and Fish. — No section of the 
 United States is more abundantly supplied with wild 
 game, aquatic fowls, and fish, than the territory of Michi- 
 gan. Bears, wolves, elk, deer, foxes, beaver, otter, musk* 
 rats, martin, raccoon, wild cats, rabbits and squirrels, 
 are numerous in the forests. 
 
 Wild geese and ducks are found in such immense 
 flocks on the lakes, rivers and bays, that their vociferous 
 
mt 
 
 Yk* 
 
 MICHIGAN TERKITORT. 
 
 squalling, and the thundering noise of. their wings, seem 
 to remote all apprehension of the fear of man. Of this 
 tumultuous confusion, proceeding from numbers, the 
 sportsman takes adyantage, to repeat his fires, without 
 giving alarm or disturbance to the game. Wild turkies, 
 quails, grouse, pigeons and hawks, are also plenty- — the 
 latter in autumn appear in swarms, and prey upon corn 
 and new sown wheat. 
 
 All the rivers between the Maumec and the St. Joseph 
 of lake Michigan, together with the lakes, bordered by 
 shores 600 mile« in extent, contain inexhaustible supplies 
 of fish. The trout of Mackinaw, which weigh from 10 
 to 70 pounds, possess an exquisite relish, and are caught 
 at all seasons of the year. White flsh^are caught in pro- 
 digious numbers, with seines, in the strait of Detroit, and 
 in lake St. Clair. They alsoare taken with great dispatch 
 by hooks and spears. Great plenty of sturgeon are found 
 in these lakes. 
 
 Several *9ncient Mounds^ within SO miles of Detroit, 
 on the river Huron, are raised on a dry bluft*, where 16 
 baskets fuU of human bones, of an extraordinary size, 
 were found in diggii^ one cellar. On the west bank of 
 Huron, near the mouth, the labors of those ancient people 
 are distinguishable, in the form of a fortress, with walls 
 of earth thrown up, like the fortifications discovcraWe 
 in th<e states of Indiana and Ohio. 
 
 At B*ll6 Fontaine, or Spring Wells, three miles below 
 Detroit, are three small mounds, in a straight line, about 
 10 rods apart ; one of which has been opened* where ma- 
 ny bones, stone ales, arrow heads, &c. were found. One- 
 fourth of a mile distant, are the remains of an ancient for- 
 tification, enclosing several acres of ground. 
 
MICHIGAN TERRITORY 
 
 •# 
 
 S63 
 
 this 
 the 
 liout 
 kies» 
 -the 
 corn 
 
 oseph 
 id by 
 pplies 
 omlO 
 :aught 
 in pro- 
 (it, and 
 ispatch 
 found 
 
 Detroit, 
 \ere 16 
 sixe> 
 )aBk of 
 I people 
 walls 
 /craWe 
 
 Climate and Diseases.— The climate of .the eastern 
 part of this territory, is not unlike that of the western 
 counties of New-York and Pennsylvania — milder next 
 the state of Indiana — on the coast of Huron and St. Clair 
 more severe ; where winter weather is generally felt two 
 weeks earlier than at Detroit. Lake St Clair continues 
 frozen from December to February. The northwest 
 winds blow with great violence across lakes Huron and 
 Superior. 
 
 The prevailing diseases of this climate are fevers, in* 
 termittent and bilious, agues, jaundice^ and dysentery ; 
 tlic latter is often fatal to children. Consumptions arc 
 rare. 
 
 below 
 ^, about 
 
 >re tni" 
 Onc- 
 snttor- 
 
NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 
 
 When the tciTitory of Illinois assunted the character 
 of a state government, the residue of the Northwestern 
 Territory was placed under the territorial jurfsdiction of 
 Michigan. The immense tract of country, stretching 
 out northwardly on the borders of the British dominions, 
 exceeding more than three times the space of Michigan 
 territory, is bounded on the south by the state of Illinois ; 
 on tlic east by lake Michigan, md the watei-s forming a 
 communication with that lake .iiid lake Superior ; on the 
 north by the British boundary line, extending tiirough the 
 latter lake, and thenc« to, and through the lake of the 
 Woods, on said British boundary line, to a point due 
 north of the head sources of the Mississippi ; and on tlie 
 west, by a line due south from the northern boundary 
 to the head of the Mississippi, and thence on tiie Missis- 
 sippi to the northwest angle of tlie state of Illinois : be- 
 tween latitude 42° and 49° north, and longitude 9° and 
 18° west. 
 
 Face of the country, rivers, lakes, soil, productiom, 
 Sfc. — Green Bay, in width from six to thirty miles, 
 stretches out north and south, parallel with lake Michi- 
 gan, to the extent of 120 miles ; communicating with tlie 
 northwestern part of the latter, by a broad outlet. The 
 peninsula between the two bays, is in width fi'Qm 20 to 
 40 qiiles. 
 
 
 
NORTHWESTERN 1 ERKITORV. 
 
 260 
 
 Several rivers flow into Green bay, of which the Fox, 
 that meets the bay at the southwestern extremity, is the 
 principal. It flows through a mouth of 400 yards wide* 
 where the water is 20 feet in dopth ; and is navigable 160 
 miles to the portage. Near the mouth is a French set- 
 tlement, consisting of 40 families. These settlers occu- 
 py both sides of tl»e river for five miles, and have devoted 
 themselves to the cultivation of the soil. A century has 
 elapsed since the first establishment there by the French. 
 They raise corn, wheat, peas, potatoes, and various other 
 vegetables ; also large stocks of cattle and horses. The 
 soil on each side of the Fox river, near the mouth, is of 
 a good quality, and the wheat fields and gardens display 
 a charming appearance. The timber growtli is walnut, 
 maple, sugar maple, poplar, elm, honey locust and pine. 
 The shores of the bay are vai legated with prairas and 
 lands covered with large forest trees. For two or three 
 miles from the lake, the banks of the Fox are low, where 
 they gradually rise to the height of nearly 100 feet. This 
 elevation of surface continues to the Winnebago lake. 
 
 About 20 miles from the mouth of Fox river, is the 
 portage of Kakalin, one mile in length, the ground even 
 and rocky, the fall about 10 feet ; ripples obstruct the 
 navigation for nine miles, there being almost a continous 
 rapid to the fall of Grand Konimee, w here is a fall of 
 five feet. Just above this fall, the river expands into a 
 sheet of water from two to five miles wide, and thirty 
 miles long, called Winnebago, or Puant lake. The bor- 
 ders of this lake display a pleasant surface and a fertile 
 soil, producing spontaneously, grapes, plumbs and other 
 fruits. Various Indian villages are scattered on the mar- 
 gins of the Winnebago, and above and below on the Fox 
 river. The Winnebagoes raise large quantities of corn* 
 
 Y 
 
mi^ 
 
 NORTHWESTEUN TERRITORY. 
 
 licans, pumpkins, squashes &c. The lake abounds in 
 excellent fisii and wild water fowls. Six miles east Iforn 
 where the Winnebago narrows to the width of lOO yards, 
 up the river, is another lake, 10 miles lonj;; tliree niihs 
 above the latter, is tlie ccmfluence of tlie J)e Loup svith 
 Fox river. Here the lands, bordering; on the river, uie 
 aj^reeably diversified with prairas and woods. Extensive 
 tracts are overspread with wild grass, which grows lux- 
 uriantly, alVording inexhaustible means of raising stocks 
 vi' cattle. From the river De Loup to the next lake, 
 called Puchway, is about 80 miles. The latter is nine 
 miles long. Further up, 1^2 miles, is Lac du Bo?uf, wliich 
 extends 12 miles, and is covered with foUes avoines, or 
 wild rice, and frequented, spring and fall, by prodigious 
 flocks of wild fowls. 
 
 Above Lac du Boeuf, the river bi'anchcs into two 
 streams, of nearly equal magnitude ; both of which arc 
 so thickly covered with wild rice, as to be almost impas- 
 sable with water craft. Thirty miles above the forks of 
 these streams, is lake Vaseux, — exhibiting the appear- 
 ance of a complete meadow., thickly overspread with wil I 
 rice. 
 
 A description of this plant, which presents so promi- 
 nent and distinguishable a feature in the wild vegetable 
 groupe of tlie country, though it may interrupt our sequel, 
 will not improperly suspend tlic attention of the reader. 
 This valuable aquatic plant (aveim fatua) is scattered 
 over most of the lakes, rivers and bays of this territory. 
 This plant, called by the French fols avoines, and by the 
 Indians menomen, grows through water, from four to se- 
 ven feet deep ; but does not take root ia a hard, sandy- 
 bottom. The surface of water when covered with it, re- 
 sembles inundated cane bnike£h-*the blades shoot up from 
 
NOllTHWESTF.nN TKURITOTIY. 
 
 267 
 
 four to eiglit feet above the top of the wator, anil ficquent- 
 Iv grow so close to eacli other, as to prevent the progress 
 of canoes and boats. Tliey are of the size of Tennessee 
 reed cane, studded with joints, and rxhibKinj; the texture 
 and color of bulruslies— tlic branches, above the water, 
 have the appearance of oats. While in the milk, the 
 Indians, yvho gather large quantities for food, to protect 
 the crops from fowls, bind the heads together on the 
 standing blades, and when ripe, paddle a canoe by the 
 side of the branches, with outspread blankets, and beat 
 out the grain ; and so prolific is the plant, that a squaw 
 will soon fill a canoe. The wild rice is said to be as 
 nutricious and palatable as that which is made a cunimoB 
 article of commerce. 
 
 From lake Vaseux to the portage, between the Fox 
 and Ouisconsin rivers, is 15 miles. Within this space 
 the Fox river leads a very serpentine course, being so 
 incumbered with wild rice, as to render the use of oars 
 difficult. Near the portage, the river does not exceed 
 the width of five yards, except where it spreads into 
 small lakes and rice ponds. In the course of five miles 
 the river is so crooked and circuitous, that the boatman 
 gains a distance towards the portage of only one quarter 
 of a mile. The ordinary length of the portage is two 
 miles ; but when the two streams are swelled by heavy 
 rains, loaded boats pass conveniently from one river to 
 the other. Half of the distance consists of a morass, 
 covered with tall wild grass; the residue a plain, thinly 
 set with oak and pine. Half the way being a kind of 
 natural ravine, in a-soft soil, and the remainder a level 
 space, so easy to be excavated, that a canal could be con- 
 veniently opened, at a small expense. 
 
268 
 
 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 
 
 At the portage, which is 350 miles east of the falls of 
 St. Antlionj.and '240 from Fraira du Chein, are two or 
 three French ramilies settled. There the Ouisconsin is 
 about 100 yards wide, flowing with a strong smootli cur- 
 rent, the water transparent and the bottom sandy — a 
 low stage of waler presents to the navigator troublesome 
 sandbars. The banks of the Ouisconsin are fertile ai.d 
 pleasant; the surface rises into high hills, at a distance 
 of 10 or 15 miles. On the margins of the river formerly 
 stood several neat Indian villages belonging to the Kacs 
 and Ottigaumies, who raised from their lands an abun- 
 dance of Indian corn and other vegetables. Near the 
 aite of these deserted towns, the soil is of an excellent 
 qualify. The valley of Ouisconsin is spread out from 
 two to ton miles wide, and covered in some parts with 
 forests of large valuable white pines. A considerable 
 portion, however, of the bordering 'ands, is hilly and 
 mountainous, of a thin soil, and stinted growth of oak, 
 and hickory. The stones are generally calcareous. 
 
 On the soutli of the Ousconsin, the mountains abound 
 in lead ore of the best quality. This metal is represent- 
 ed by Carver to have been so plenty among the Indians, 
 that, at the great Saukie town, about 40 miles below Iho 
 portage, he saw laigc quantities of it strewed about the 
 streets. 
 
 The Fox and Ouisconsin rivers have long been the 
 avenue ic^' all the commerce that has been carried on be- 
 tween the Mississippi and Mackinaw. 
 
 The mouth of the Ouisconsin is in latitude 43° 28': 
 within three rdilt^ of which, on the east bank, is the vil- 
 lage of P.airadu Chein, deriving its name from a familv 
 of Indians, who formerly resided there, known by the 
 appellation of Dogs, !t was occupied as a French poirt 
 
NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 
 
 269 
 
 falls of 
 two or 
 nsiii is 
 tli cur- 
 idy— a 
 lesonie 
 lie at.d 
 istance 
 )rmerly 
 le Sacs 
 n abun- 
 ear tlie 
 ccellent 
 ut from 
 rts with 
 idcrablc 
 illy and 
 of oak, 
 s. 
 
 abound 
 resent - 
 ndians, 
 low lh« 
 out tiic 
 
 leen the 
 on be- 
 
 13° 28' . 
 
 the vil- 
 familv 
 by th<> 
 
 ich poir* 
 
 about a century ago-— the garrison and village being 
 located about one mile below the present town, which 
 was established under the British government, in 1783. 
 The old establishment under tlic patronage of the French, 
 consisted of nearly 1500 souls. The present nimber of 
 inhabitants do not mucli exceed 400, exclusive of the 
 ITnited States' soldiers now stationed there. The peo- 
 ple, belonging to that place, may be considered the de- 
 scendants ot a progeny produced from French scions 
 engrafted on aboriginal stocks. The incomplete out- 
 lines of the French character may «m distinctly traced 
 in the manners, language and looks of the inliabitants, 
 who have made considerable progress in agriculture, and 
 the indispensible meclianical arts. The bottom on which 
 the village stands is nearly one mile and a half wi<ie, in 
 a manner environed with higli, bald hills. Such have l>een 
 the agricultural improvements by the settlers, that they 
 are now able to furnish (having an excellent gristmill) 
 300 barrels of tiour annually, for the garrison. 
 
 The rivers of the Northwestern Territory have three 
 general distinct courses : flowing northwardly to lake 
 Su|)erior, westwardly to the Mississippi, and eastwardly 
 to lake Michigan and Illinois river. 
 
 IUvrrsfJuwiujXto the cast,l i^tween the northern boun- 
 dary of Illinois and the outlet of Green Bay, flow, in the 
 order named, viz. Tanahan, Wakayah, Masquedon, 
 Cedar, Roaring, Mil wakee, Saukie, Skab;iyaga!ll, Maurice, 
 and Fourche. These streams all run parallel with each 
 other, at a distance of from ten to twenty miles, and 
 heading from thirty to sixty miles of the lake. 
 
 Roaring river, the flowing of which produces « nmse 
 that resembles dist.mt thunder, heard at intervals of two 
 or three days, iu the wai m seasons, is approached by the 
 
 Y 2 
 
270 
 
 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 
 
 Indians with religious awe, who suppose the place to be 
 the residence of the Great Spirit. The noise is believed 
 to proceed from the attraction of the electric fluid, by 
 the great quantities of copper in that place, which so 
 impregnate the waters of the stream with mineral parti- 
 cles as to render the fish unpalatable ami poisonous, to a 
 degree tliat prevents the Indians from eating them. 
 
 Between the entrance of Green Bay and Mackinaw, 
 flow the rivers Manistique and Mino Cochcen ; the for- 
 mer flows to lake Michigan, 30 miles north of tiie outlet of 
 the bay. This is a considerable river, deriving its source 
 from a lake near lake Superior. It is margined with 
 higli, sandy bankji, and covered with pine timber. 
 
 The Jllno Cochceti is deep and wide, drawing its head 
 waters from near lake Superior, and discharges in lake 
 Michigan, about 3.5 miles southwesi of Mackinaw. Be- 
 tween the latter and the strait of St. Mary, the Bouchi- 
 taouy and St. Ignance enter lake Huron 
 
 The Strait of St. Mary, connecting lake Huron and 
 Superior, is 50 miles long, having several cliannels which 
 embrace nuiny islands ; of whicli the principal Is St. 
 Josephs, 75 miles in circuit. The rivers Minaston, Mis- 
 continsaki, and Great Bouchitaouy, all flow into this 
 strait, of which the last interlocks with the branches of 
 the Manistique. 
 
 The southern border of lake Superior is watered by 
 more than^O rivers, of which the most considerable, 
 commencing at tlie eastward of the lake, are Grand 
 Marais, Corn, Dead, Carpe, Great and Little Garlic, 
 and Porcupine rivers ; all which join the lake, east of 
 the great peninsula of Shagomogon, which projects into 
 the la ive more than 60 miles. Between this peninsula 
 (bearng Sro miles west of Saut de Marie) and the Fond 
 
NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 
 
 
 dii Lac, are the rivers Ontonagon, Fair, Montreal, Bad, 
 Bmntwood, Godards and Strawberry. The St. Louis 
 flows into West Ray, at Fond du Lac. Tliis river 
 which is large, and navif^able 150 miles, takes its rse, 
 neai the eastern head branches .of the Mississippi. At 
 the mouth and near tlie source of the St. Louis, the North- 
 west Company have established several trading houses. 
 
 Between the Ouisconsin, which wehave before descri- 
 bed, and the head sources of the Mississippi, numerous 
 streams flow from the east into the latter. The I^e 
 Croix and Deer rivers interweave their branches with 
 the St. Louis, and enter the Mississippi below the lurks 
 of the St. Louis. 
 
 JSfmdow river di^chargts, three miles below the falls 
 of Parkagnmon, in latitude 4G'' :10' and i> tiaversed with 
 Indian canoes 100 miles, winding through prairf;^, with 
 pine and spruce swamps in their rear. 
 
 Swan river, next below, jcins the Mississippi ; it is 
 navigable ^av canoes 90 miles, to Swan lake. 
 
 »SV»«//j/-/«^^ river flows in, 40 mdes below Swan river. 
 This river, though of a considerable size, is short, con- 
 necting Sandy lake with the Mississippi, by a strait, six 
 nnles lon^. The circuit of this lake is nearly 25 miles. 
 It is the depository for several small rivers, of which the 
 n\ost r«timiderablc is the Savanna, — that by a portage of 
 four miles communicates with the St. Louis ; having 
 been adopted, in connection with the former river, by the 
 Nortiiwest Company, as a channel of communication be- 
 tween the western part of lake Superior and the Missis- 
 sippi. 
 
 Muddy river, a small stream flows in, ^0 miles beb' .. 
 The rivers following are in course as named, between the 
 last described and tiie Falls ol St. Anthony : Red Cedar, 
 

 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 
 
 De Corbeau, Shrub Oak, Lake, Clear, Elk, St. Francis 
 and Rum rivers, all emptying in, from the east. 
 
 The 8t, Croix falls into the Mississippi a few milts 
 below the falls of St. Anthony, through an outlet of 80 
 yards wide ; 500 yards up, it ililates into a long, narrow 
 lake, from 2 to 3 miles wide and 30 miles long. Tliis 
 stream communicates with lake Superior by Burnt river, 
 by a portage of half a mile only, having a gentle current, 
 without any falls or rapid. No otlier communication, 
 so advantageous, presents itself between lake Superior 
 arnl the Mississippi. 
 
 Tlie Falls of St. Anthony, in latitude 44° 15' present 
 a grand and beautiful appearance. The whole river, 
 whicli is here 750 feet broad, fails perpendicularly, over 
 a height 35 feet. About 70 miles below these falls, is 
 an expansion of the Mississippi, from one and a half to 
 four miles in width, and 22 miles long, devoid of any 
 island, called lake Pepin. In this region, three-fourths 
 of the banks of the Mississippi consist of open prairas 
 or rather bald hills. 
 
 The river Montaigne enters the up|)er end of lake 
 Pepin ; into the lower end of which the Chippewa 
 pours its waters. It is a deep, wide, handsome stream, 
 that interweaves its head branches with those of the 
 Montreal, which flows into lake Superior, and also with 
 tlie Menominie, that discharges into Green IJay. The 
 branches of the Chippewa are numerous, of which the 
 Rufus, Vermillion, and Copper rivers are the principal. 
 About 30 miles from the Mississippi, it divides into two 
 large brandies. 
 
 The Buftalo, Black, n"-' Praira le Croix, between lake 
 Pepin and tlie Ouisconsin, tiow into the Mississippi from 
 the cast. 
 
NORTHWESTERN rERRITORY. 
 
 278 
 
 ?rancis 
 
 J iniU'S 
 it of 80 
 narrow 
 This 
 it liver, 
 :urreiit, 
 icatioii, 
 iupcrior 
 
 present 
 
 le riviT, 
 
 ly, over 
 
 falls, is 
 
 . half to 
 
 of anv 
 
 -fourths 
 
 praira'i, 
 
 of lake 
 ^ippewa 
 1 stream, 
 of the 
 [SO with 
 The 
 lich the 
 [incipal. 
 Into two 
 
 en lake 
 Ipi from 
 
 The interior of this territory is watered by vast num- 
 bers of lakes and ponds, forming the sources of the prin- 
 cipal rivers. 
 
 Having described the lakes and rivers, according to 
 the best information we could obtain, we will subjoin a 
 sbort account of the soil and surface of this extensive 
 region, which as yet has been but very imperfectly ex- 
 plored. 
 
 The alluvial bottom lands, on the various streams, 
 have been supposed equal in fertility to tJ.ose of Ohio or 
 Michigan. The corn crops of Green Bay, Praira de 
 Chein, and even as far north as the banks of the Onton- 
 agon, which flows into lake Superior, grow as luxuriantly 
 as in any part of the western country. A considerable 
 portion of the uplands and prairas, south of the parallel 
 of St. Anthony's Falls, is of an excellent quality ; inter- 
 spersed, however, with large tracts of low, wet, flat land, 
 rocky prairas, shrub oak ridges, and extensive strips of 
 a light sandy soil ; the latter being suitable for the cul- 
 ture of small grains. High, bald hills are the prevailing 
 features on the surface in many places on the banks of 
 Rocky river and Ouisconsin. 
 
 According to the representation of lieutenant Pike, from 
 the Falls of St. Anthony, with some exceptions, the soil 
 on the banks of the Mississippi to the head waters of that 
 river gradually deteriorates, and much of the growth is 
 pine and hemlock. There are, however, tracts of con- 
 siderable extent, as far up as the river De Corbeau (in 
 latitude 45° 50) suitable for plantations, where mayb« 
 found small bottoms ; the timber growth, oak, ash, maple 
 and lynn. Thence to Pine river, the margins of the 
 Mississippi display a dreary prospect of high, barren 
 knobs, covered witli dead and fallen pine timber ; occa- 
 
#' 
 
 274 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY 
 
 8ionally,but rarely, aro groves of yellow and pitch pine 
 on the ridges, and small bottoms of elm, oak and ash. — 
 The adjacent country is, more than two-thirds of it, over- 
 spread with small lakes. Above Pine river, a very small 
 part is fit for cultivation — game scarce, the surface over- 
 spread wi'li pine and hemlock ridges — but occasionally 
 some praira and small bottoms, on which the growth is 
 elm, beech and lynn 
 
 From Leech lake, np to the extreme source of the 
 Mississippi, the whole face of the country exhibits the 
 appearance of an impassable morass, or boundless sa- 
 vanna. 
 
 Between 46° and 47® north, within the area of a few 
 miles diameter, are the head sources of three great rivers, 
 the Mississippi, St. Lawrence and the Red river of Hud- 
 son's Bay, all flowing down in different directions and 
 pouring their waters into distinct seas, at a vast distance 
 from each other. Thus it appears, that this height of 
 land, flat and wet as it is, must be one of the most ele- 
 vated situations in North America. 
 
 The dividing lands, which separate the head waters of 
 the Mississippi from those of lake Superior, are covered 
 with forests of pine, spruce and hemlock — thence pro- 
 ceeding towards the southern margin of lake Superior, 
 a tract of good land, suitable for cultivation, is spread 
 out extensively, consisting of bottom and upland. 
 
 From the Fond du liac to Point Shagomogon, the 
 banks of the lake are generally o( strong clay, mixed 
 with stones, which cause the navigation of the lake to he 
 perilous. From this peninsula to the outlet of the lake, 
 tlie shore is almost a continous straiglit border of sandy 
 beach, interspersed with rocky precipices of limestone, 
 from 20 to 100 feet high, without a single bay ; and good 
 
NOUTinVESTETlN TEKRITORY. 
 
 -^s 
 
 ll good 
 
 harbors are rare : timber, oak, sugar maple and pine ; 
 uplands of a sandy soil, the bottoms rich. 
 
 On tlie southern shore of tlie St. Mary, are extensive 
 tracts of good hmd, suitable for settlements. Tlie south- 
 ern bank of the river Miscojitinaski is covered with an 
 excellent soil. On the margins of this river arc handsome 
 [Muiras ; in the rear large groupes of sugar maple, wiiere 
 the Chijipeways have established numerous sugar camps. 
 From this river to the rapids of St. Mary is almost one 
 continued meadow. 
 
 'Die purchase, made by Jonathan Carvei', of the Nau- 
 dowessie (lihe of Iixlians, is situated within this territory. 
 By that tribe th.e land was granted to Carver as a con- 
 sideration for his pacific iuterpositi(>n, whereby lie dis- 
 '•uaded tl»e Chippeways, with a numerous band of war- 
 riors, from attacking and destroying the Naudowossies. 
 
 The tract, claimed by Carver's heirs, contains 8,000, 
 000 acres, and is included within the following bounda- 
 ries, vi/,. "From the Falls of St. Anthony, r inning on 
 the east bank of the Mississippi, nearly H)utl,east, as fur 
 as the south end of lake Pepin, where tlr: Chippewa 
 joins the Mississippi ; and from thence eastward five 
 (lays travel, accounting '20 English miles per day; and 
 from thence north six dayrs travel, accounting 20 English 
 miles per day ; and from thence again to tlie F'alls of St. 
 Anthony, on a direct line." To obtain a confirmation of 
 tliis Indian grant from the crown, Carver saiLul to Eng- 
 land, where he died. Ills heirs, in 1817, ippli^'d to Con- 
 2;res9 to conUrm the gram made to their ancestor; but 
 their claim was rejected. The lantls described in Car- 
 ver's grant are watered by the Chippewa, Mountain and 
 St Croix rivers, beside several smaller streams. Carvtr 
 is supposed to be the only white man who has explored 
 the interior of that region. 
 
376 
 
 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 
 
 The country contiguous to the Cliippewa, up to its 
 falls, about (tO miles, is remarkably level, and almost 
 clenucleti of timber and trees ; on the margins of the river 
 are beautiful meadows, where, as Carver states, he saw 
 large flocks of buffalo and elks feeding. Above the falls, 
 he found the country much broken, and thickly wooded 
 with pine, beech, sugar maple and birch. He represents 
 the country adjacent to St. Anthony's Falls, as extreme- 
 ly beautiful ; the surface gently waving, and covered 
 r/'iih handsome groves of forest trees. Near the head of 
 'he St. Croix, he noticed a plenty of wild rice, and an 
 ab^indance of copper. The northwest wind is repre- 
 sented by him as much less violent in the interior of this 
 territory, than in the Atlantic states ; and he remarks, as 
 a proof of the mildness of the climate, that the wild rice 
 comes to maturity in this region ; whereas it scarcely 
 ripens in lake Erie, and does not grow east of that lake. 
 
 On the eastern bank of the IMississippi, below the falls 
 of St. Anthony about 30 miles, there is a cave of great 
 extent, which was visited by Carver. The Indians be- 
 fieve it the dwelling place of the Great Spirit. The en- 
 trance into it is ten feet wide, and the height five ; the 
 arch within, nearly fifteen feet high, and about thirty 
 broad ; the bottom is composed of fine clear sand. — 
 Within, twenty feet from the entrance, is a lake, whose 
 waters are transparent, extending to an unknown dis- 
 tance. A pebble thrown into the lake, causes a reverbe- 
 ratory, astonishing noise. Indian hieroglyphics are en- 
 graved on the walls. 
 
 Minerals. — Some parts of this territory abound in 
 valuable lead and copper mines. The mines between the 
 Ouisconsin and Rock river, extend within five or six miles 
 of tlie Mississippi, occupying a space of eiglity miles long; 
 
NORTHWESTERN TF.URITORV. 
 
 S77 
 
 fiom three to nine wide — the ore is of a superior quality, 
 and supposed to be inexhaustible. Carver affirms, that, 
 on both sides of the St. Croix, he discovered several mines 
 of pure, virgin copper. Henry King;, Esq. says, that oft 
 the Ontonagon, and in its vicinity, he found an abundance 
 of virgin copper ; and that the Indians, who manufacture 
 this metal into spoons and bracelets, showed him one 
 lump of 20 pounds weight, — and that it required no 
 other refining than to be beaten into shape. He asserts, 
 tiiat on ascendin?" that river, ten miles from the mouth, 
 he discovered a mass of copper, according to his estima- 
 tion, of no less than five tons, from whjch he severed with 
 Itis axe, 100 pounds. He supposed this mass of ore, which 
 was at the foot of a steep hill, had parted from a larger 
 mass and rolled down. 
 
 Upon the island of Nonibojou, between Point Manance 
 and Michicopoten, on the north east coast uf that island, 
 this adventurer found several pieces of virgin copper, of 
 which some resembled the leaves of vegetables, and 
 others the forms of animals; and were from an ounce to 
 three pounds in weight. 
 
 Near the mouth of Roaring river, lump« of copper, 
 of from seven to twenty-five pounds weight, have been 
 found; large quantities of the same metal have also 
 been found on Middle Island : near the western coast 
 of lake Michigan, considerable quantities of pure copper 
 have been found. Lead is represented as abounding 
 on the river Depage ; and iron ore, copperas and allum, 
 on the shores of lakes Huron and Superior. 
 
 Jin ancient furtification, four feet high, and nearly 
 one mile in extent, just below lake Pepin, on the east 
 bank of the Mississippi, may very distinctly be traced. 
 Its form is a regular circle, the flanks extending to the 
 
 z 
 
srs 
 
 NORTHWESTERN TERRITORY. 
 
 river : the angles are still definitely prominent, and ap- 
 pear to be fashioned with great art. Mounds of con- 
 siderable elevation, have been found on Menonomie and 
 Gaspard rivers. 
 
 Of the Indians in this territory, the Menonomies and 
 Winnebagoes are the only tribes which appear here to 
 be exclusively located. The former occupy villages on 
 the Menonomie and Fox rivers, at the Kakalin and 
 Grand Kenomie portages, and on the Winnebago lake. 
 Tlieir forms are well proportioned, their deportment 
 mcjestic, their eyes handsome, and their utterance in 
 speech, animated ;— *their language bears no resemblance 
 to the neighboring tribes, and is difficult to be acquired. 
 War and pestilence have so reduced their tribe, that 
 they can muster only 250 warriors. But their bravery has 
 rendered them so much respected, that they are indulged 
 by the Sioux and Chippeways with the privilege of hunt- 
 ing on their grounds. 
 
 The Winnebagoes occHipy villages on the Ouisconsin, 
 Rocky and Fox rivers, on Green bay, on an island in 
 lake Michigan, and on Winnebago and Puckway lakes. 
 Their number of warriors are reckoned at about 300» 
 
 The same species of Fish which swim in the other 
 great western lakes, east of lake Superior, are very abun- 
 dant ir» the latter ; as also in the numerous rivers which 
 flow into the lake, from which, and some of its tributary 
 streams, salmon trouts have been taken, that exceeded 
 50 pounds weight each. 
 
ARKANSAW TERRITORY. 
 
 The boundary lines of this territory, which was carved 
 out of the territory of Missouri, and by act of Congress 
 of March, 1819, erected into a separate territorial gov- 
 ernment, arc as follow, viz. beginning on Mississippi 
 river, at 36° north latitude, running thence west to the 
 river St. Francis, thence up the same to 36° 30' north 
 latitude ; and thence west, to the western territorial 
 boundary line ; thence south on the same line, to 33* 
 north latitude ; thence east, on tiie northern boundary 
 of the state of Louisiana, to the Mississippi ; thence up 
 that river to the place of beginning. This territory, 
 whose length and extreme breadth are equal, being near- 
 ly ii40 miles each, contains about 50,000 square miles, 
 and is situated between 13° and 17° west longitude, and 
 between 33° and 36° 30' north latitude. 
 
 Face of the country, rivers, soil, timber growth, cJt.— 
 Of the rivers which water the territory of Arkansaw, 
 tlie Mississippi, the Arkansaw, the Washita, the White 
 river, and the St. Francis are the principal. For a des- 
 cription of the two former, we refer our readers to the 
 preliminary remarks ; and for that of the Washita, to 
 our geographical sketches of Louisiana. 
 
 White river rw'^y in the Black mountains, which sepa- 
 rate it from the .\rkif.;ijaw. The northern and eastern 
 branches of the !•. fftiie*' river, derive their sources from 
 
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 ATIKANSAW TERRITORY, 
 
 near those of the Osage, the Gasconade, the Maramack, 
 and the western branches of the St. Francis. The ex- 
 treme western branches commence more than 200 miles 
 on a straight line west of the western boundary of the 
 territory, and entering the nortliwestern part thereof, 
 the river traverses, in an eastern course, more than half 
 the width in a straight line, of the territory ; and receiv- 
 ing Black river from the north, a little below, the junction, 
 turns short, and flows nearly in a southern direction, 
 and disembogues into the Mississippi, about QO miles 
 above the mouth of the Arkansaw. Thirty miles above 
 the junction, a bayou puts in from the Mississippi, form- 
 ing a communication between the two rivers, the current 
 setting alternately from, or to the several streams, ac- 
 cording to the greater elevation or depression of the one 
 or the other. The navigation of the White river, as it 
 runs, is computed to extend, from its mouth, 1,200 
 miles ; on a straight line, not exceeding 500. It is ex- 
 empted from shoals and rapids ; and its current, which 
 is pure and limpid, is not low, even in the dryest sea- 
 sons. 
 
 Below Black river, several smaller streams flow in, 
 among which are Rapid, John, James, and Red rivers, 
 being each navigable from one to three hundred miles. 
 Black river, composed of many tributary streams of con- 
 siderable size, is navigable 400 miles. Up 50 miles from 
 the mouth, is Lawrence, the seat of justice for Lawrence 
 county. Spring river, which is a tributary of Black 
 river, remarkable for its formation by the junction of a 
 number of springs issuing near each other, is so copious, 
 as to produce a stream 200 yards in width, narrowing to 
 a current of 50 or 60 yards, which is navigable for M) 
 miles, swarming with excellent flsh, and afibrding a re* 
 
ARKANSAVr TERRITORY. 
 
 S81 
 
 treat, through the winter seasons, for immense fiocks of 
 swans, geese and ducks. At the mouth of this stream 
 a town is laid out. 
 
 In the region watered bj White river, the prevailing 
 stones are lime and marble, by th<* decomposition of which 
 is produced that excellent soil, which is spread over the 
 surface. There are some prairas, but they are of mode- 
 rate extent. The surface, though generally waving, is 
 in some parts, broken, and interspersed occasionally 
 with knobs. The soil, with few exceptions, is strong 
 and fertile, well supplied with springs of pure water, and 
 shaded with handsome forest trees. The country, in 
 point uf soil and timber growth, much resembles the best 
 parts of Kentucky, Indiana, and West Tennessee. The 
 tract to which this description applies, is more than 150 
 miles square. Beside cotton and tobacco, which grow 
 luxuriantly, corn, the small grains, and the various kinds 
 of fruit trees, that flourish in the western country, suc- 
 ceed in this soil. The mountains on the northwest and 
 north, sheltering this region from the cold winds, confer 
 a mildness on the climate, as favorable to the security of 
 tender plants and fruits, as is common to latitudes in the 
 west, 2 or 3 degrees further south. After the state- 
 ment of these facts, it need not be added, that few situa- 
 tions, of so southern a latitude, afford so great a security 
 to the health of the human constitution. 
 
 This whole tract has been surveyed, and is now ex- 
 posed for sale. Below the forks of White river, about 
 100 miles, salt works are established at a saline, which 
 is said to be copious, and strongly saturated with salt. 
 
 The St. Francis is formed from two large branches, 
 which unite a few miles below the northern boundary of 
 the territory ; the eastern finds its sourceg in the hills 
 
 y2 
 
2as 
 
 ARKANSAW TERRITORY. 
 
 west and northwest of Cape Girardeau, from SO to 60 
 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and runs nearly par- 
 allel with the Mississippi : the western branch heads 
 near the extremities of branches which flow to the Mara- 
 mack, in the lead mine region, and pursues, to the junc- 
 tion, a southwardly course. Below the junction of the St. 
 Francis, the river, running nearly parallel with the Mis- 
 sissippi, at a distance of from 40 to 60 miles from the 
 latter, joins it about 75 miles above the mouth of White 
 river. It is navigable 3G0 miles, to within 60 miles west 
 of Cape Girardeau. The southern bank is considerably 
 overflowed by high waters, some of it irreclaimable 
 swamps, and the current obstructed by drift wood^— 
 Much of the northern bank is ovempread with cane. 
 Two bayous put out from the Mississippi, and extend 
 to the St. Francis many miles above its mouth. 
 
 Chepousa river rises in a small lake, and running near- 
 ly 70 miles, falls into the Mississippi 90 miles below the 
 mouth of the Ohio. 
 
 Between the St. Francis and White river, below the 
 forks of the latter, are various small streams, of consi- 
 derable length ; part flowing into the latter, and part in- 
 to the former, in a southern direction. The soil alluvial, 
 deep and strong ; but the surface generally low and flat, 
 a considerable portion of it marshy, and occasionally in- 
 undated. There are, however, large tracts in this region, 
 suitable for cotton plantations. 
 
 The •Arkansaw enters that territory, near the centre, 
 on the western boundary, and flowing in an eastern 
 course more than 100 miles, as the river runs, thence 
 turns and meanders east, and after pursuing a very ser- 
 pentine route, pours its waters into the Mississippi, about 
 80 miles, on a straight linei from the southeast angle of 
 
ARKANSAW TERRITORY. 
 
 283 
 
 the territory. Through tlie greater part of this route, 
 the banks are inundated by high waters. Where not too 
 low, the soil, which is deep and strong, produces luxuri- 
 ant cotton crops. The timber growth resembles that on 
 the Mississippi margins. 
 
 The post or town of Arkansaw, is about 45 miles from 
 the junction of the river with the Mississippi. This is 
 one of the earl' 3st settlements in Louisiana, having been 
 commenced more than a century past. Hunting and 
 trade with the Indians, have chiefly constituted tlie em- 
 ployment of the inhabitants ; who, till of late, were mostly 
 French, and descendants proceeding from an intercourse 
 between French and Indians. A large proportion of the 
 land surrounding the settlement, is so low and flat, as to 
 be subject to inundation. The buildings in the town, 
 erected by the French, are ordinary, and seem to be in a 
 state of decay ; but of late, emigrants and recent settlers 
 have diffused a commercial spirit among the people, and 
 the place begins to assume a new appearance. 
 
 Between Arkansaw and White rivers, towards the 
 Mississippi, is a handsome praira, extending north warldly 
 90 miles, in width from 6 to 12 miles, and constituting 
 the sources of the small tributaries, which flow to oppo- 
 site points into the two rivers. This tract of praira ap- 
 pears to be within the survey of 200,000 acres, intended 
 for the bounty lands of soldiers. 
 
 The Hot Springs are too curious and important an 
 ©bject to omit, though we attempt here only to proscni 
 the mere outlines of the natural feat'res of the countrv. 
 Those Springs are situated about latitude 34° 20' north, 
 eight miles from the Washita, on a little bayou, where the 
 two branches of it unite. The place is environed with 
 mountains, except on tlie southwest, by which the bayou 
 
S8i 
 
 ARKAXSAW TERRITORY. 
 
 finds its passage to tlie Washita. From tlie side of a high 
 bluiF, southeast of the bayou, issue 30 springH. The largest 
 of these r.prings are said to be nearly six inches in dia- 
 meter. To the warm springs, which emit a heat that 
 will boil an egg hjird in 15 minutes, the invalids resort; 
 of whom, in 1812, was the number of 300. The niedici- 
 lial properties of these waters have been esteemed effi- 
 cacious in removing rheumatic pains, confirmed ulcers, 
 and all kinds of cutaneous affections : but to those labor- 
 ing under pulmonary diseases, the application of these 
 waters has proved' injurious. 
 
 Two miles from the Hot Springs is a quarry, which 
 abounds with oil stone, apparently of the same qualities 
 of the Turkey oil stone, in such estimation is this valu- 
 able stone held, that it is becoming an article of conside- 
 rable traffic. The lands for several miles around the Hot 
 Springs, except the margins of streams, are of an indif- 
 ferent quality, broken surface, thin soil, and fitted only 
 for the rearing of stock. 
 
 On the Fmirche Cado, a considerable branch, which 
 (being south of the Hot Springs) flows east to the Wash- 
 ita, is an extensive body of rich arable land, on which 
 nearly one hundred industrious cultivators have, within 
 four or five years, commenced setflements. Six i^iles 
 below the Cado, near the Washita, is a valuable saline, 
 where considerable quantities of salt are made. 
 
 The country watered by the Little Missouri, that flows, 
 from the west, into the Washita, 1 es in the southwest 
 angle of the territory. This tract, which contains nearly 
 fifty square miles, is supposed not to be exceeded by any 
 compact body in the west, of equal extent, either io fer- 
 tility, or other valuable properties, which serve to render 
 it desirable and convenient for cultivation. A large poi^ 
 
ATIKANSAW TEURITORY. 
 
 285 
 
 tion consists of praira, rarely exceeding 200 acres each, 
 covered with a deep, black mould, overspread with a lux- 
 uriant grass; — the prairas all skirted with thick borders 
 of stately oaks, of which the trunks of many are nearly 
 40 feet, clear of limbs. This extensive tract of good land 
 occupies the ground which parts the streams flowing to 
 the Washita and Red rivers : and though much of the 
 surface is broken, it is not so hilly as to render it incapa- 
 ble of cultivation. A singular circumstance, worthy of 
 note, is, that the highest grounds are praira, and the low 
 grounds wood, consisting of various species of forest tim- 
 ber. Those prairas are pretty generally covered witb 
 oyster and other sea shells, the remains of which appear 
 to extend two or three feet deep. The first settlement 
 in this part of the country was made in 1812. There arc 
 now more than 120 families on this tract. In the county 
 of Arkansaw is supposed to reside about 6000 inhabi* 
 tants. It would be difficult to estimate the number within 
 the territory. 
 
MISSOURI TERRITORY. 
 
 Having completed our Geographical Sketches of the 
 extensive region, commonly denominated the Western 
 Country, excepting that portion which is situated west 
 of the Mississippi, and north and west of the territory 
 of Arkansaw j of this great tract, which remains to be 
 described, occupying a space but little inferior in magni- 
 tude, to all the residue of territory within the limits of 
 the United States, we shall proceed to give such sketches 
 and outlines, as have, after the most diligent eiquiry, 
 come within our notice. As most of this immense re- 
 gion remains unexplored, and but little known, our de- 
 scription of it must necessarily be confined to general 
 lineaments, indefinite views, and such natural promiinent 
 features on the surface, as are most distinguishable. The 
 Mississippi, and the western line of Arkansaw territory, 
 form the eastern boundary ; the Pacific ocean the wes- 
 tern $ the territory of Arkansaw, and the Spanish Pro- 
 vinces the southern ; and the British Province of Upper 
 Canada, the northern. The territory of which we treat, 
 Stretches out from 12** to 48" west longitude, and from 
 SS** to 49" north latitude. Its greatest length about 2,500 
 miles; its greatest breadth about 1,100; containing one 
 millioQ square miles, or 640,000,000 acres. 
 
MISSOURI TERRITORY. 
 
 287 
 
 FacR of the country, rivers, hkes, soil, natural growth, 
 4*c.— Tributaries of the Mississippi, that flow to it on the 
 ^vestern bank, are, the J?u^a/o, about 150 yards wide at 
 its mouth ; Bear river, 20 yards wide ; Salt river, in 
 length 100 miles, and navigable 50 miles, enters the Mis- 
 sissippi 90 miles above the mouth of the Missouri. The 
 lands southwest of this river, bordering the Mississippi 
 50 miles, are of a good soil, praira and wood conveniently 
 intermixed. The country is healthy, and well supplied 
 with good springs of water. Considerable quantities of 
 salt are made on Salt river. In 1816, the first settlements 
 commttnced ; which have increased to more than 100 
 families. Jaustioni, SO yards wide, is the boundary be- 
 tween the United States and the Sacs. Wyaconda is 
 100 yard* wide at the mouth. The Des Moines, 150 
 yards wide at its mouth, flows south-westwardly, 450 
 miles. It is 250 miles above the mouth of the Missouri, 
 and navigable, from its mouth, 300 miles. The country 
 watered by this river, is delightsome and fertile ; good 
 timber and water are plenty. Iowa river, in width 150 
 yards at its mouth, is navigable for batteaux, nearly 300 
 miles, to where it branches into three forks, called the 
 Turkey^s Foot s which, a little above, expand into rice 
 lakes. From its mouth 36 m.iles, it forks into two bran- 
 ches, of which the west is called lied Cedar river, from 
 the prevailing growth of that species of wood on its banks. 
 Between the last described river and St. Peters, that en- 
 ters the Mississippi 40 miles below St. Anthony's Falls, 
 of a smooth gentle current, navigable to the source, 800 
 miles, are twelve or thirteen small rivers, several of which 
 are navigable for many miles. The St. Peters is entered 
 by several tributaries, of which the principal is Sauteaux; 
 up which, 15 miles, are found the Sioux villages, in fine 
 
288 
 
 MISSOUUI TLUniTORV. 
 
 praira lands. Great and Little '9rtc rivers, the former 
 200 yards wide, flow into the Mississippi a little above 
 the Falls. Still further up, 45 miles, is Pine creek ; the 
 margins are covered with red and white pine— back of 
 these groves are prairas. Here liieutenant Pike en- 
 camped and spent the winter, with his exploring party, 
 in 1805. Elk river has a communication by the Sau- 
 tcaux river, with tlie St. Peters. River de Corbeau flows 
 to the Mississij)pi about 375 miles above St Anthony's 
 Falls. The Corbeau being equal in magnitude and ex- 
 tent to the eastern fork, which bears the name of the 
 Mississippi, Lieutenant Pike was of opinion, that the 
 junction of the two, being the extreme head branches, 
 ought to be considered the forks of that river. By a por- 
 tage of one mile from the Corbeau i^io Otter Tail lake, 
 one of the great sources of the Red river, a tributary of 
 Hudson's Bay, a communication by water is opened 
 from the Mississippi to that t»ay. Still further up are 
 several small streams, such as the Pine, Pike, Winipeg, 
 and Leech lake rivers, the latter being fed by Leech lake, 
 one of the main extreme head sources of the Misssissippi. 
 
 Near latitude 46° the Red river of the Hudson flows 
 by, to the west of the head sources of the Mississippi, and 
 after passing northwardly within the territorial limits of 
 the United States, more than 200 miles, enters the great 
 lake Winipeg near 52° north latitude. 
 
 The Maramack, at its head, is a copious spring, burst- 
 ing suddenly from a large fountain, near the heads of the 
 8t. Francis and White rivers. Its general course is east ; 
 after leading a serpentine navigable route 250 miles, it 
 enters the Mississippi, about 40 miles below the mouth 
 of the Missouri. A branch of this river, called the Negro 
 Fork, rises near the Mine a Burton, and Sowing tlirough 
 
MISSOURI TERRITOIIY, 
 
 ^9 
 
 the lead mine region joins the main stream, about 30 
 miles from its moutlj. 
 
 A description of the Missouri will be found in our 
 preliminary remarks. From the moutii of this river to 
 that of the rivQr La Platte, in latitude 41°, a distance of 
 more than 600 miles, the land is generally of good quality, 
 and timber tolerably plenty ; in many places the soil rich, 
 and the face of the country pleasant. From the mouth 
 of the Missouri to the moutli of the Kansas, the former 
 does not vary more than a lialf a degree from an east 
 course, in the distance of 3-10 miles, as the river runs— 
 from the Kansas to the great northern bend at Shannon's 
 creek, latitude 43°, the course of the river is nearly 
 southeast, and the distance by water 720 miles. From 
 thence to the Mandan village, in latitude 47° 23' where 
 the Missouri makes nearly a right angle, turning short 
 from an eastern course, which it had pursued from its 
 western sources, it flows nearly south, through 4^ de- 
 grees of latitude, a distance by water of 455 miles.—* 
 From the confluence of the river La Platte with the 
 Missouri, for 1500 miles up, the soil becomes less pro- 
 ductive ; and except on the bottoms, the land of an or- 
 dinary second rate quality— the surface, the greater 
 part, void of timber, rather hilly, but not mountainouSj 
 and with few rocks or stones. The particles constitut- 
 ing the soil being of a light texture, on the steep decli- 
 vities, are constantly washing by heavy rains to the bot- 
 toms of the hills. A surface and soil not unlike that 
 which lies on this portion of the margins of the Missouri, 
 is said to extend, eastwardly and westward ly, a great 
 distance from the river, on each side — 4he whole surface 
 without forest trees, except on the margins of the streams 
 V— the country, farther than the eye can reach, exhibiting 
 
 A a 
 
20O 
 
 MissouKi Trnuriouy. 
 
 an appoarancc of a grainl praira, nv nxilivi Iwrvpti, over- 
 spread with a short thick <;;raHs, interspersed with bh»s- 
 sorns and Howers »>f every hue, that llourish and decay 
 in succession, according to the times of tlic maturity of 
 their respective species, from sprin;^ to autumn. 
 
 Tiie summits of these hills, in the summer season, pre- 
 sent most enchanting ])rospects to the spectator, hill 
 and dale, widely extended plains, covere<l wilh a wav- 
 ing carpet of green, most fancifully decorated with an 
 ilifinite variety of bee Uiful llowers — the great parent of 
 rivers in his majestic march, wi ruling his course and 
 pouring his waters from a thousand tributary stieams, 
 that bend their circuitous courses among the hills, de- 
 finitely bordered by narrow groves of stately cotton and 
 morehumble willow trees,while thou^ands ofelk,deerand 
 burtalo arc seen grazing, seemingly unconscious of dan- 
 ger, in these unfretjuented walks of civilized man, all ap- 
 parently exhibiting to view the semblance of a surface of 
 a century's agricultural improvements, and of great flocks 
 of domestic animals, reared by the care of man, and scat- 
 tered widely over his plantations. The last described 
 region, though not generally eligible for the various pur- 
 poses of agriculture, is unquestionably well fitted for the 
 rearing of numerous flocks of horses, cattle and sheep. 
 
 The tract of country called the Cape Girardeau Dis- 
 trict, lies opposite the mouth of the Ohio, in width 100 
 miles, extending back, west from the Mississippi, 200 
 miles, is beautifully watered by the northern head 
 branches of the St. Francis and White rivers. 
 
 A ridge of hiils leaves the Mississippi, about 20 miles 
 above the mouth of the Ohio, being the first high land 
 on the west bank, from the mouth of the Mississippi, a 
 distance of 1136 mileSj consisting of a high, rocky blufij 
 
MISSOUUI TKIIRITOIIY. 
 
 291 
 
 that cxtiMuls soulljvvestwardly, and divides tln^ waters 
 tl()\vin<>; to the St. Francis and White rivers, f roiu those> 
 \Nhicli llou' to tlie Missouri and (he Mississippi above the 
 bluft'. Above this ridtro ol' liiji!,h land, to the nortii, a re- 
 gion is opened tothe view, which assumes an appearance 
 totally dissimilar, and in many respects, preferable to 
 the alluvial plains to t]»e south. To within three or 
 four miles of tlie Mississippi, above the blufts, the lands 
 are much broken, and are ordinary second rate ; thence 
 westwardly, for a distance of 30 miles, the country is hil- 
 ly, the soil excellent, and the water and timber good 
 and abundant ; still further westwardly, c^ .. >tinji: on 
 the bottoms of ihe numerous streams, barrens itud flint 
 hills prevail. At a distance of nearly. 70 miies south- 
 west of Cape Girardeau, some extensive, CAcellei't bot- 
 toms are fri nd, on the head branches of the St. Francis, 
 an ' a considerable tract of good land, well timbered, ii 
 spread out on the hills. 
 
 The great swamp, so called, commences about five 
 miles south of Cape Girardeau, in width, from three to five 
 miles, stretching nearly 60 miles long, terminating in 
 the low lands on the St. Francis. For a distance of 22 
 miles west of New-Madrid, a place of but little commer- 
 cial importance, towards Winchester, the seat of justice 
 for the county of New-Madrid, the land is sufficiently 
 elevated, and of a good quality, except what lies between 
 Winchester and the upper lakes, where the surface is 
 too low for cultivation. South of the former, the land 
 having been greatly injured by earthquakes, has been 
 abandoned. The Big Praira, eight miles long and four 
 broad, commences 14 miles north of New-Madrid. — 
 Clusters of trees here, resembling islands in the ocean, 
 are to be seen, environed by lands in a high state of im- 
 
 im^2 
 
S9a 
 
 MISSOURI TERRITORY. 
 
 provemeiit. Tlie soil is abundantly productive of cot- 
 ton, sir all giains, various kinds of fruit. North of tlie 
 praira, the surface exhibits a complete champaign, cover- 
 ed with stately oaks, walnut, mulberry and honey locust, 
 (a considerable space covered with shrubbery, without 
 high trees, being by itself,) the trees thinly set, and of a 
 regular distance as though planted by art. Within the 
 same description may be included, as it respects growth 
 and surface, the range of country lying southwest, to- 
 wards White river. Cape Girardeau is one of the most 
 flourishing settlements on the western waters, extending 
 westward, a distance from the ?.Iississippi exceeding 60 
 miles. 
 
 The county of St. Louis, which lies on the Mississip- 
 pi, between Cape Giraixleau District and Missouri river, 
 extending west beyond the mouth of t!ie Osage, is partly 
 rolling and partly hilly, in the eastern section. For six 
 miles around the town of St. Louis are open prairas, of 
 which the surface is handsome but the soil is ordinary ; 
 on approaching the Florissant Valley, which occurs a- 
 bout twelve miles from St. Louis, the soil is excel- 
 lent. Here the prospect presented to the eye is delight- 
 ful, and itie situation healthy. The middle of the county 
 is alternately rolling and hilly, consisting of excellent 
 second rate praira. The valleys are occupied with rich 
 bottoms, rarely flooded, affording several good mill seats. 
 The western part is open, rich praira, conveniently 
 skirted with valuable timber. The middle and western 
 parts are abundant in lead and iron ore ; and within 20 
 miles of St. Louis, it is said, that considerable quantities 
 of tin have been discovered. 
 
 The streams which traverse this county, flow to the 
 Mississippi and Missouri, in order as nanied, proceeding 
 
MISSOURI TERRITORY. 
 
 293 
 
 n 
 
 upwards, viz. The Maramack, which is bordered by the 
 lead mineral region, enters the former great rivei 18 miles 
 below St. Louis ; is navigable 300 miles, winding its 
 course eastwardly through a country of valuable lands. 
 The Big river^ Bourbons, and JS'^egro Fork, are branches 
 of this river. The following enter the Missouri : the 
 Bonne Ilomme, and the Gasconade. The latter is dis- 
 charged 100 miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and 
 is navigable 100 miles. On its banks are numerous salt 
 petre caves, and the bordering lands abound in lead ore. 
 Lumber is transported down this river, a distance of 60 
 miles. 
 
 The Osage, which is navigable 600 miles, joins the 
 Missouri 133 miles from the Mississippi, through a 
 mouth 397 yards in width. The confluence of the Osage 
 with this river "s in latitude 38° 30'. The head waters of 
 Osage flow from a ridy-e whicli feeds some of the branches 
 of the Arkansaw ; its course being generally eastwardly. 
 An eminence near the mouth affords an extensive and 
 delightful prospect of the adjacent country. The prin- 
 cipal branches of the Osage, are, Mary's, Big Bones, 
 Yangar, Potatoe, and Grand Fork rivers. 
 
 On the Yungar, about 20 miles from the Osage, is a 
 remarkable cascade, 90 feet in perpendicular descent. 
 To this river, from the mouth of the Osage, a distance 
 by water of more than 16o miles, tlie bank- ' f the latter 
 are covered with a rich soil, possess! nis; a growth of 
 handsome timber ; the country adjacent to tiie margins 
 of the river on each side, t)eing interspersed with rocky 
 hills. The stream of the Yungar is supposed to be near- 
 ly as large avi the Osage, and to be navigable for canoes, 
 except the rapids, 100 miles. The country, through 
 whicli it meaaders, is remarkable for the number of bears, 
 
S94 
 
 MISSOURI TERRITORY. 
 
 which range in its woods. After passing tlie Yungar, a 
 few miles up, is a pond of water half a mile in circumfer- 
 ence, about four rods from the bank, elevated 20 feeta- 
 bove the surface of the river, apparently on a sand bank. 
 The first appearance of praira on the Osage, is at the 
 Park, about 20 miles, by tlie course of the river (which 
 is remarkably crooked) from the mouth of the former. 
 Here the country displays a mixture of wood and praira 
 land. For a long distance is a bordering cliff, covered 
 with tall, beautiful cedars. From the Park to the Grand 
 Fork, which flows from the south, supposed by water 
 nearly 200 miles, the features of the country are nearly 
 the same as last above described. But from the Grand 
 Fork to the Great Osage Village, supposed about 60 
 miles, the praira land greatly predominates. About 9 
 miles by land, northeast of the village, the east bank of the 
 river is an entire bed of stone coal. The country sur- 
 rounding the Great Osage village, in latitude 37° north, 
 is covered with an excellent soil, and displays a charm- 
 ing surface, consisting of open praira, finely diversified 
 by the winding courses of the three great head branches 
 of the Osage, meandering through the vallies, bordered 
 by a wide and apparently unlimited expanse of gently 
 rising swells and sloping lawns, covered with grass and 
 numerous flowers, where rapt into future visions, a 
 sanguine republican patriot might behold the whole fiice 
 €f the country, farther than the eye could reach from the 
 hills, overspread with the effects of the productive labor 
 of the skilful cultivatop— -neat farm houses and fencers, 
 orchards of various fruit trees, and numerous flocks of 
 every species of domestic animals, and groups of well 
 built villages resounding with the business noise of the 
 tradesman and mechanic 
 
MISSOURI TERRITORY. 
 
 S95 
 
 cks of 
 )fweU 
 ofth« 
 
 A surface and soil similar to that around the Osage 
 village, extends (juite to the sources of that river — a re- 
 gion of open praira, unlimited, except by the horizon, to 
 the view of a spectator ; diversified by gentle, broad un- 
 dulations of surface, possessing a rich soil, and an ample 
 supply of good water. 
 
 The following are the towns in the county of St.Louis: 
 Belle Fontaine, four miles above the mouth of the Mis- 
 souri, and fifteen miles north of St. Louis. Florissant, 
 16 miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and northwest 
 from St. Louis. Ilerculaneuni, SO miles south of St. Louis. 
 JRogerstown, 40 miles southwest of St. Louis. 
 
 St. Louis, the chief town of Missouri Territory, on the 
 west bank of Mississippi, 15 miles by water below the 
 junction of the Missouri, and 14 above that of the Mara- 
 mack ; distant from Washington city 982 miles, in west 
 longitude 11° 14', latitude 38° 36' north; in 1810 con- 
 tained 1600 inhabitants, and in 1819, about 5,000. The 
 situation of the town is high and pleasant, being a gra- 
 dual ascent from the first to the second bank. Three 
 streets, parallel with the river, are intersected by a num- 
 ber of others, at right angles. The town extends upon 
 the river two miles. The highest bank, upon which the 
 town is chiefly built, is elevated nearly 40 feet above the 
 other, affording a fine view of the town and river. St. 
 Louis contains a Roman Catholic chapel, a theatre, two 
 banks, and two printing offices, from each of vrhich issues 
 a weekly newspaper. The ancient houses are of wood 
 and stone, built after the manner of the French, with 
 large gardens appurtenant. Those lately erected, are 
 in the American style, chiefly built with brick ; some of 
 which are elegant. This town ivas first settled in 1764. 
 
syo 
 
 MISSOURI TERRITOUY. 
 
 Its site, in two respects, 13 very important: — I. Being 
 near the outlet of three great rivers, flowing from differ- 
 ent points, each of wl\ich water a great extent of fertile 
 country. 2. Occuj)ying a more central position, as it 
 respects territory, than any considerable town in tlie U. 
 States. St. Louis progresses fast in commerce and po- 
 pulation, and will probably be one of the largest towns 
 in the Union. 
 
 From the town of Ilerculaneum, on the west bank of 
 the Mississippi, 30 miles south of St. Louis, to St. Gene-' 
 vieve, the land on the river is hilly, and of a thin soil ; 
 thence to the Saline, second rate, excepting a spacious 
 lil^rh bottom, contiiiuous to St. Genevieve, containing 
 nearly 10,000 acres, which is of an excellent quality. — 
 Beyond, the hills approach the river, bordering it for 8 
 miles ; thence, receding from one to three miles, leaves a 
 fine bottom, called Bois Brule, above the reach of high 
 waters, to Apple creek, being a distance of 20 miles. 
 
 The tract called the Batren Settlement, has a good 
 second rate soil ; is high, well watered, well timbered, 
 and productive of the small grains ; being occupied by a 
 number of industrious farmers. Southwest of Genevieve, 
 for 10 or 15 miles, though supplied with wood and wa- 
 ter, and producing moderate crops of grain, the lands 
 are ordinary. In this region lead and coal are abundant. 
 
 The lands watered by Big river, a branch of the Mara- 
 mack, possess a good soil, and are suitable for cultiva- 
 tion : thence to Potosi, tiie country is hilly ; further west, 
 the land is good, supplied with wood and water. Belle' 
 vue settlement, lying south of F'otosi, contains a large 
 body of excellent land. There arc valuable mill seats 
 in this tract • ' . '* 
 
MISSOURI TERRITORY. 297 
 
 In describing the rivers which enter the Mississippi 
 on the west side, we have remarked, that the lands, be- 
 tween the mouth of the Missouri, and a d.' stance of more 
 than a hundred miles above, on the Mississippi, are good. 
 "Within the above space, the ascent generally is gradual 
 to the summit of the hills, which are well supplied with 
 wood and beautiful springs of water. Between the river 
 and the hills, much of the space is occupied with rich 
 praira bottoms ; by connecting which with the high lands, 
 pleasant sites for farms are afforded. Numerous small 
 streams of water flow through those lands. Northwest 
 from the town of St. Charles, the lands for a considerable 
 extent, are of an excellent quality, and conveniently in- 
 termixed with wood land and praira. 
 
 Tliat tract of country which is included within the 
 limits of Howard, county, is bounded east by the county 
 of St. Charles, (the tract last described) being, by a line 
 extended from the Missouri, a few miles above the Osage, 
 perpendicularly, to the northern Indian boundary ; on 
 the north and west by the Indian boundary lines ; and on 
 the south by the river Osage. The bottom lands within 
 these limits, on the Missouri, are from one to three miles 
 wide; the upland is well elevated, covered with a rich 
 soil, and possesses a handsome growth of timber, inclu- 
 ding great numbers of sugar trees, and is intersected by 
 many small streams, which enter the Missouri. Of this 
 Vole county, which contains 30,000 square miles, the 
 one half is first rate soil, presenting beautiful sites for 
 farms, on which settlements are making with almost un- 
 exampled rapidity. Some parts are so rolling, as to be 
 considerably washed by rains, and others are not suffi- 
 ciently supplied witli good springs of water. The por- 
 
298 
 
 MISSOURI TERRITORY. 
 
 tion best adapted to cultivation, extends back from the 
 Missouri from 15 to SO miles; beyond, the surface con- 
 sists mostly of a broad expanse of open praira, mucli of 
 which possesses a thin soil. On the south side, lar«j:;e 
 spaces are broken into high broad hills, interspersed with 
 tracts of level, ricli land. Here three-fifths of the coun- 
 try may be reckoned as praira. At the junction of Grand 
 river with the Missouri, an elevated plain affords a de- 
 lightful situation for a town. Between this river and 
 Snake creek, the surface is elevated and rich ; being co- 
 vered by a beautiful growth of timber. 
 
 Howard county embraces the settlements of Boon's 
 Lick, and also 500,000 acres for military bounties. These 
 bounty lands are situated about 215 miles from the mouth 
 of the Missouri, west of, and adjacent to. Boon's Lick 
 settlement. They extend to the north bank, and border 
 on a bow of tliat river. This, taken as a body, is esteem- 
 ed an excellent tract of land. The surface generally is 
 rolling, and the soil rich ; near the streams (of which 
 there are several that traverse it) the land is well timber- 
 ed. On and near tlie rivers, the prairas are few and of a 
 moderate extent. Proceeding from the rivers, from 10 
 to 25 miles, ramifications of the great open praira are 
 found, where springs of water or trees are rarely to be 
 met with. Westwardly of the Bounty lands is situated 
 the 90 mile praira, narrow in width, extending up, nearly 
 parallel with the river, and separated from it by a consi- 
 derable space of good land, partly bottoHi, well supplied 
 with timber. On this praira is a handsome lake, strong- 
 ly impregnated with salt, in width from 150 to SOO rods, 
 an'' in length from three to four miles ; fo- ^ned by springs, 
 and communicating, by a small outlet, with the Missouri. 
 
MISSOLHI TEIHIITORV. 
 
 299 
 
 Streams flowing throggh the county of Howard, are, 
 branches of Wjaconda and of Salt river, and branches of 
 the Missouri ; such as Cedar creek, Roche Fere, Mari- 
 teau creek, having many licks and springs of salt water ; 
 Bonne Femnie, navigable several leagues ; Hurricane, be- 
 tween which and the latter are Boon's saltworks ; First 
 Charitan, navigable 50 miles, from the northeast ; Se- 
 cond Cliaritan, from the same point, navigable 100 miles. 
 Grand river, navigable for 600 miles, empties from the 
 northeast ; Moreau from the southwest ; Mine river, na- 
 vigable 40 miles, from the southwest. A branch of this 
 river, strongly saturated with salt, is navigable for boats 
 through tiie county. Lead ore is abundant on this river. 
 vSeveral other smaller streams intersect the country, as 
 yet but imperfectly explored. 
 
 In 1818, Missouri territory, exclusive of Arkansa\r 
 and Lawrence, embraced seven counties, which, with 
 their respective chief towns, being seats of justice, arc 
 exhibited in the following table : 
 
 Counties. 
 New-Madrid 
 Cape Girardeau 
 St. Genevieve 
 Washington 
 St. Louis 
 St. Charles 
 Howard 
 
 Chief towns. 
 
 Winchester 
 
 Jackson 
 
 St. Genevieve 
 
 Potosi 
 
 St. Louis 
 
 St. Charles 
 
 Franklin 
 
 rings, 
 souri. 
 
 The present population is estimated at about 50,000. 
 
 New-Madrid is 35 miles south of Cape Girardeau, and 
 148 south of St. Louis. Winchester is 22 miles, north 
 of New-Madrid. Cape Girardeau is 93 miles south of 
 St. Louis, and 20 above the mouth of Ohio. Jackson, 12 
 miles northwest from Cape Girardeau, and 102 from St. 
 
300 
 
 MISSOT.jn TEUlllTORY. 
 
 Louis. Potosi, formerly called Mine-a-i3erton, is CO 
 miles south-southwest from St. Louis, and about 45 west 
 of St. Genevieve. New-Bourbon, 5S miles south tVou) 
 St. Louis. St. Michaels, 50 southwest of St. Genevieve. 
 Madinsborou^jh, 15 miles south of Genevieve. St.Charles 
 en the north side of the Missouri, 18 miles northwest ol 
 St. Louis. Marthasville, 40 miles west of St. Charles. 
 Portage, on the west bank of the Mississippi, 24 miles 
 noi'th of St. Loui^.. Charlotte, on the north bank of the 
 Missouri, 40 miles above St. Charles. Franklin, on the 
 north bank of Missouri river. Chariton, on the north 
 bank of tlie Missouri, 20 miles west of Franklin. 
 
 The principal large rivers, which remain to be descri- 
 bed, are, the Kansas, La Platte, and the Fellow Stone* 
 
 The Kansas, which is one of the finest tributaries of 
 the Missouri, entering 650 miles above its mouth, finds 
 its head sources, which are numerous, between the Ar- 
 k nsaw and La Platte. It is navigable for 1200 miles; 
 the adjacent country, which is but partially known, is 
 generally praira, and its course in many places is bor- 
 dered by high cliffs of solid gypsum. 
 
 La Platte, 330 miles above the Kansas, being about 
 2000 miles in extent, is the longest and the largest stream 
 which pays tribute to the Missouri. But the current is 
 so choaked generally with extended Deds of quicksands, 
 as to render it almost useless for navigation. Several 
 beautiful rivers, however, which enter it, have navigable 
 waters for a considerable extent. The country watered 
 by this river is but little known. 
 
 Th« Yelloii^ Stone, next in size and extent to the La 
 Platte, enters the Missouri 1880 miles upo Its current 
 flows like a torrent, bearing down an immense body of 
 turbid waters. 
 
AflSSOUUI TEUHITORV. 
 
 301 
 
 The following table presents a compendious, thoiigli 
 incomplete view of the numerous tributaries to the 
 Missouri, above the Grand river : 
 KdnsaSf navigable 1200 miles, southwest side. 
 JAttle Platte, navigable 40 miles, northeast side. 
 JK^odawa, navigable 60 miles, northeast side. 
 La Platte, southwest side ; more than 2000 miles long ; 
 
 but almost impassable with water craft. 
 Floyd's river. 
 
 Big Sioux, navigable 200 miles. 
 White Stone, 
 
 River a Jaque, nav. 300 miles ; a rendezvous for traders. 
 flui Courre, s. w. a beautiful river, navigable not far up. 
 Poncas, southwest side. 
 White river, navigable 600 miles, s. w. A large beautiful 
 
 river, 300 yards wide at its mouth ; branches unknown. 
 Tyler's river, 
 Chienne river, navigable 800 miles, s. w. not well known; 
 
 400 yards wide at its mouth. 
 Serwarserna, southwest side. 
 Winipenhu, southwest side. 
 Cannon Ball, southwest side ; 140 yards wide. 
 Ekife river, southwest side ; near the Mandan villages. 
 Little Missouri, s. w. 134 yards wide ; not navigable. 
 Goose river, 300 yards wide. 
 White Earth, northeast side. 
 Fellow Stone, s. w. 855 yards wide at its mouth ; a good 
 
 depth, but very rapid. 
 Porcupine, northeast side ; 112 yards wide. 
 Dry river, southwest side ; 100 do. 
 Big Dry river, do. 400 do. 
 
 Muscle-shell river^do, 100 do. 
 
 Big Home, do. ioo do, 
 
 B b 
 
 J 
 
ao® 
 
 MISSOURI TERRITORY. 
 
 Manoles, southwegt side ; 100 yards wide. 
 
 Fancy river, do. 180 do. 
 
 Dearhome. 
 
 Marittt northeast side. 
 
 Jefferson Fork, navigable 96 miles. 
 
 Madison, do. 80 do. 
 
 Gallatin, do. 60 do. 
 
 Principal tributaries of the Yellow Stone river, are — 
 Big Home, Tongue river, and Lewis's river. The Kansas 
 has Smoke-hill Fork, Grand Saline, Solomon's Fork, and 
 Republican Fork, for its tributaries. And La Platte has 
 Filkhorn, 400 yards in width ; Wolf river, 600, and the 
 Padoncas. Each of these large rivers receive tribute 
 from numerous smaller streams. To complete this im- 
 perfect sketch of ^e numerous streams tiiat contribute 
 to form the majestic current of the Missouri, would re- 
 quire the scientific research and itinerant labors of years. 
 
 ■'it' 
 
SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY, 
 
 WATERED BY 
 
 COLUMBIA RIVER, 
 
 AND ITS TRIBUTARY STREAMS. 
 
 Of that portion of the territory claimed bj tke United 
 States, between the Rocky mountains and the Pacific 
 ocean, little is yet known, except what has been collect- 
 ed from the travels of Lewis and Clark. Their re- 
 searches were, however, necessarily very limited, beii^ 
 principally confined to the banks of the Columbia and 
 its tributaries. 
 
 According to the boundary specified in the late project 
 for a treaty witli Spain, this tract is bounded west by 
 the Pacific ocean ; north by the parallel of 49° latitude ; 
 east by the mountains which separate the head waters of 
 the Missouri from those of the Columbia. The extent 
 is in length about 300 miles, in breadth 500, containing 
 400,000 square miles. The sea coast, unlike that of the 
 Atlantic, opens no great bays, or mouths of lat^e navi- 
 gable rivers, except the Columbia, to aid the transpor- 
 tation of agricultural productions, and to facilitate com- 
 merce. That great river, with- its four great branches, 
 spreads out in different directions, to a vast extent, 
 drains this spacious region, besides extending some of 
 its ramifications far beyond, both to the north and south. 
 
aai 
 
 COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 The northern branch, which retains the name of Co- 
 lumbia, draws its head wafers from uear the IVo/eu 
 ocean. ClovL's river, interlocking with tlie head 
 streams of the Missouri, of whicli s^yme of the extremi- 
 ties of each are separated by a 8j»ace less than 300 rods, 
 flows in a broad circuitous route, in tiic form of a half 
 circle, a Utile flatted, and disembogues into the Colum- 
 bia about the lat-tode of 48°. 
 
 Lewis's rivw rises near the source of the Yellow 
 Stone, and winding its long route in a course more an- 
 gular, meets the main river, about 180 miles below the 
 former junction, in latitude 4G°. The eastern branch, 
 by the name of JSIidtnmnack, drains its hea<l waters 
 from the same mountain, which gives rise to two other 
 great rivers— the La Platte, and the Colorado of Cala- 
 fornia, that flow to dift'erent oceans, 3000 miles apart. 
 The Multnomack unites with the Columbia, through a 
 inouth 500 yards broad, in latitude 45® 20' ; from 
 whence the latter, which is here more than a mile wide, 
 after flowing al)out 100 miles, still widening in its pro- 
 gress, to a space of five riiiles, pours its multitude of 
 waters into the Pacific ocean, in the latitude of 46° 15'. 
 This river is navigable 200 miles from the ocean, with- 
 out any obstruction ; beyond that distance, are several 
 precipitous i:apids : here it is one mile in width. Both 
 this river, and all its tributaries, are most abundantly 
 supplied ^vith salmon, and various other kinds of fish. 
 
 About 106 miles from the sea coast, a ridge of moun- 
 tains extends parallel therewith, on each side of the 
 Columbia, north and south, for several hundred miles ; 
 and between this ridge and the Rocky mountains, the 
 country is extremely broken and hilly, but occasionally 
 interspersed with beautiful rich valleys ; a large portion 
 
COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 305 
 
 of the whole surface being almost destitute of wood* 
 Here are many fine streams of water, and much of the 
 country js well adapted tu the raising of cattle and 
 sheep. Of the latter a species running wild in the woods 
 are sometimes found with fieeces of beautiful fine wool. 
 In many places clover, timothy, flax, currants and straw- 
 berries grow spontaneously. 
 
 Columbia valley, west of the lowest rapids, is said to 
 be many miles wide, and 70 miles in length. It is repre- 
 sented as veiy beautiful, possessing a rich soil, and 
 much of it shaded by fine groves of timber. The cli- 
 mate on the sea coast is stated to be incommoded with 
 excess of moisture in the atmosphere, and drenching 
 rains, throjgh the winter season. Farther to the east, 
 the climate is pleasant, being much milder than the same 
 parallel of latitude on the shores of the Atlantic. 
 
 The Indians are extremely numerous on the waters of 
 the Columbia, being supposed to amount to nearly 
 100,000. 
 
 Bb2 
 
CONCLUSION. 
 
 In a geographical description of that immense region, 
 which engrossed our attention, so vast and multifarious 
 were the objects of our pursuit, that although we havv 
 extended our excursions and enquiries widely and va- 
 riously, often with particularity, we have been compelled 
 to borrow light from guides, who traversed the country 
 before us. Where our materials for completing the work 
 -seemed deficient, we have had recourse for information, 
 to the travels of Lewis and Clark, Brackenridge's View 
 of Louisiana, Pike's Journal, Drake's Picture of Cincin- 
 nati, Kilboura's Ohio Gazetteer, Darby's Emigrant's 
 Guide, and Worcester's United States' Gazetteer, — 
 beside some other publications of less notoriety. 
 
 Our aim has been, diligence in research, and fidelity 
 in description. But we have not attempted what was 
 not possible to accomplish,— >precise geographical de- 
 tails of the unfreqaented parts of the country ; which 
 notwithstanding the labours of many ingenious men, re- 
 main, as yet, but imperfectly known. 
 
 Vi 
 
region, 
 farious 
 B havv 
 ,nd va- 
 ipelled 
 ountry 
 e work 
 [nation, 
 B View 
 Dincin- 
 grant's 
 teer,— 
 
 r I 
 
 idelity 
 
 at was 
 
 al de- 
 
 which 
 
 len, re- 
 
 C0RRECTI0N9 AND ADDITIONS. 
 
 Page 5, line 13, for eaatemy read vestem, 
 
 — — 6, — 7 , for -westward, re&d east-ward. 
 > " 20, — 9 from bottom, omit as. 
 
 '■ ■ ■ 60, bottom line, after each^ add, sovereigjn state forms a kind of 
 barrier to the powerful iafliucnce of a popular, in- 
 triguing demagogue, which seldom extends beyond 
 the limits of his own state. 
 
 — — 64, line 3, for compendious, read comprehensive, 
 
 • 68, — 4 from bottom, for west, read east. 
 
 — <137, — 14 — — — — between they and are, add nof, 
 
 — ^-» id. — 12 — • — — betv,een or and salutary, insert to be. 
 
 ——214, bottom line, after borderiiig on, add the GiUf coast. 
 
PUBLIC ROADS. 
 
 From Eastport, in the District ofMainey to Astoria, at 
 the mouth of Columbia rivevt on the Pacijic ocean, by 
 Portland, Hartford, J^ew-Haven, J^ew-Yorky Philadel- 
 phia, Baltimore, Washington, Frankfort, K, Louisville, 
 Vincennes, Ind* St, Louis, by the river Missouri. 
 
 Eastport ferry. 
 
 Me. 4 
 
 North Yarmoutl 
 
 I 7 
 
 Dennysville 
 
 13 
 
 Portland 12 
 
 total 272 
 
 East falls of Machias 23 | 
 
 Saco 
 
 15 
 
 Machias 6 
 
 total 46 
 
 K.ennebunk 
 
 10 
 
 Jonesboro 
 
 9 
 
 York 
 
 18 
 
 Columbia 
 
 9 
 
 Portsmouth.N.H.9 tot.324 
 
 Steuben 20 
 
 total 84 
 
 Greenland 
 
 5 
 
 Goldsboro 
 
 9 
 
 Hampton 
 
 7 
 
 Sullivan 
 
 • 7 
 
 Merimack bridg 
 
 e 9 tot. 345 
 
 Trenton 
 
 6 
 
 Newbury port, A' 
 
 Is. 3 
 
 Ellsworth 6 
 
 total 112 
 
 Rowley 8 
 
 total 356 
 
 Surry 
 
 6 
 
 Ipswich 
 Hamilton 
 
 4 
 
 Blue hill 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 Buckstown 17 
 
 total 143 
 
 Windha i 
 
 2 
 
 Prospect landing 12 
 
 Beverly 
 
 4 
 
 Belfast 6 
 
 total .161 
 
 Salem 2 
 
 total S72 
 
 Northport 
 
 6 
 
 Lvnn 
 Cliarleston 
 
 5 
 
 Canaan 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 Camden 
 
 6 
 
 Boston 1 
 
 total 386 
 
 Thomaston 
 
 10 
 
 Roxbury 
 
 2 
 
 Warren 5 
 
 total 194 
 
 N»wtoi> 
 
 6 
 
 Waldoboro 
 
 7 
 
 Fr^iminghara 
 
 11 
 
 Newcastle 
 
 12 
 
 Weslborough 
 
 11 
 
 Alna 
 
 6 
 
 Worcester 9 
 
 total 425 
 
 Wiscasset 5 
 
 total 224 
 
 Charlton, Ct. 
 
 13 
 
 Woolwich 
 
 8 
 
 Sturbridge 
 
 6 
 
 Bath 5 
 
 total 237 
 
 StafTordpool 
 
 15 
 
 Brunswick 
 
 7 
 
 Tolland 
 
 7 
 
 Freeport 
 
 9 
 
 East Hartford 14 total 480 
 
309 
 
 7 
 
 272 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 .324 
 
 5 
 
 7 
 
 .345 
 
 1 3 
 
 356 
 
 4 
 
 i 
 
 4 
 
 72 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 386 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 425 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 ■480 
 
 West Hartford 
 
 3 
 
 Washington, Ca. 6 toti 
 
 il 821 
 
 Berlin 
 
 10 
 
 George to "ill 
 
 2 
 
 Meridcri 
 
 7 
 
 Montgomery c. h. Md. 
 
 12 
 
 Hew-Haven 
 
 17 
 
 Clarksburg; 
 
 15 
 
 Milfoid 
 
 10 
 
 Frederickstown 
 
 15 
 
 Stratford 4 
 
 total 531 
 
 Middletown ' 
 
 9 
 
 Bridi^eport 
 
 4 
 
 Boi'iisboroup-h 
 
 6 
 
 Fairfield 
 
 4 
 
 Hujrersto wn. Pa. 1 2 tot. 890 ] 
 
 Saugatuck 
 
 6 
 
 Messersburg 
 
 16 
 
 Norwalk 
 
 3 
 
 M*Connelsburg 
 
 10 
 
 Stanford 9 
 
 total 557 
 
 Crossing of Juniatta 
 Bloody Run 
 
 14 
 
 Greenwich 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 Rye,N.Y. 
 
 New-Rochelle 
 
 5 
 
 Bedford b total 944 i 
 
 8 
 
 ByonN, foot of Allegany 23 J 
 
 West Farms 
 
 7 
 
 Somerset 
 
 16 
 
 Harlem 
 
 4 
 
 Green sbu.rg 
 
 35 
 
 New-York 8 
 
 total 594 
 
 Pittsburg 
 
 35 
 
 Newark, N. J. 
 
 10 
 
 Cannonsburg 
 
 18 1 
 
 Elizabcthtown 
 
 6 
 
 Washington 
 
 8 1 
 
 Bridgetown 
 
 5 
 
 Wheeling, V. 32 total 1106 
 
 Woodbridge 
 
 4 
 
 St. Claireville, 0. 
 
 11 I 
 
 N. Brunswick 10 total 629 
 
 Morristown 
 
 ^0 1 
 
 Princeton 
 
 18 
 
 Washington 24 total 
 Cambridge 
 
 1151 f 
 
 Trenton 
 
 10 
 
 10 i 
 
 Bristol 
 
 10 
 
 Zanesville 
 
 25 1 
 
 Holmsburff, Pa. 
 Frankford 
 
 10 
 
 New-Lancaster 
 
 36 
 
 6 
 
 Tarlton 
 
 18 
 
 Philadelphia 4 
 
 total 687 
 
 Chillicothe 16 total 
 
 1256 
 
 Darby 
 
 n 
 
 Bainbridge 
 
 19 
 
 Chester 
 
 7 
 
 West Union 
 
 38 
 
 Naman's creek 
 
 5 
 
 Ohio river 
 
 16 < 
 
 Wilmington,D.7^tot.714i 
 
 Maysville, K. 1 total 
 
 1330 \ 
 
 Newport, Md. 
 
 4 
 
 Washington 
 
 4 
 
 Christina 
 
 5 
 
 Blue Licks 
 
 20 
 
 Elkton . . 
 
 11 
 
 Paris 
 
 21 i 
 
 Havre de Grace 
 
 17 
 
 Lexington 22 total 
 Frankfort 
 
 1397 • I 
 
 Hartford 
 
 11 
 
 24 1 
 
 Joppa cross roads 6 
 
 ShelbvviUe 
 Middleton 
 
 19 
 
 Baltimore 14 
 
 total 782 
 
 20 
 
 Bridge overPetapsco river 4 
 
 Louisville,0.fallsl2 to.l472 1 
 
 Vansvillc 
 
 21 
 
 JeiTersonville, Ind. 
 
 2 J 
 
 Bladensburgh 
 
 8 
 
 Knobs 5 total 1479 % 
 
310 
 
 Beecli creek 7 
 
 Indian creek 6 
 
 Blue river 12 
 
 Sullivan's Springs 17 
 
 Little Blue river 3 
 
 Big Lick 8 
 
 Petokal creek 9 
 
 Mud-holes 10 
 
 Muddy creek 10 
 
 White oak springs 8 
 
 White river 6 
 
 Vincennesie total li>% 
 
 Embarras river, II. 10.} 
 
 Higgin's - 10^ 
 
 Delong'9 12 
 
 Ruddyford's 20 
 
 Brimberry's 17 
 
 Piles's 20 
 
 Carlisle 26 
 
 Cahokia 50 
 8t.Louis,Mo.T.3i tot.l772J 
 
 St Charles 20 
 
 Charette 46 
 
 Gasconade 32 
 
 Lead Mine Hill 20 
 
 Saline river 20 
 
 Good-woman river 8 
 
 Mine river 7 
 
 tlharlton river 24 
 Old fort Orleans, 15 to.l964 
 
 Orand river 4 
 
 Coal bank 85 
 
 Bl^e water river 9 
 
 Kjlisas river 8 
 
 little Plate river 9 
 
 Nodawa river 100 
 
 JBITolf ri ver 14 
 
 3Wg Nemaka river 15 
 
 Little Nemaka river S3 
 Bi^late river 87 total 2328 
 
 Maha villa^ (Indians) 235 
 
 Big Sioux nver 17 
 
 Jaques or James river 97 
 
 Calumet Bluff ^ 10 
 
 Ancient fortification 17 
 
 total 2704 
 
 Penca river and village 22 
 
 White river 122 
 
 Teton river 133 
 
 Chayenne river 46 
 
 Weta Boo river 111 
 
 Cannon ball river 76 
 
 FortMandan, 101 total 3315 
 
 Little Missouri 91 
 
 Yellow Stone river 189 
 
 total 3595 
 
 Mathers river 61 
 
 Porcupine river 50 
 
 Little Dry river 5S 
 
 Milk river 44 
 
 Big river 25 
 
 BralUns river 97 
 
 Muscle hill river 56 
 
 Judith river 171 
 
 Slaughter river 25 
 
 St.!^r^'8river68,total 4245 
 
 Snow river 17 
 
 Shield river 28 
 
 Portage river 7. 
 
 Great falls 6 
 
 Head of falls 12, total 4315 
 
 Chippewan mountains 31 
 
 Head sources of Mis80uri64 
 
 total 4410 
 
 It is not more than a 
 
 mile from the head 
 
 spring of Missouri 
 
 to the head of one of 
 
 the branches of the 
 
 Columbia. 
 
 South branch of Columbia76 
 
 total 4486 
 
311 
 
 235 
 
 17 
 
 97 
 
 10 
 
 17 . 
 2704 
 
 2£ 
 
 122 
 
 133 
 
 46 
 
 111 
 
 76 
 
 3315 
 
 91 
 
 189 
 3595 
 61 
 SO 
 58 
 44 
 d5 
 
 W 
 
 56 
 171 
 
 25 
 4245 
 
 17 
 
 ^8 
 T 
 % 
 4315 
 
 31 
 uri64 
 4410 
 
 Foot of the great ran 
 
 12 
 
 ISO 
 
 mountains, east side 
 Foot of the Rocky > 
 mountains, west side 3 
 Flat-head Indian village 3 
 total 4631 
 Kookooske river 18 
 
 Canoe camp, Forks of 
 
 Colui.ibia 
 Kimoo-enem 60 
 
 North branch of the "J 
 
 treat Columbia or v 140 
 iewis's river \ 
 
 total 4855 
 Mouth of Snake river 162 
 Great falls of Columbia 6 
 total 5023 
 Short Narrows 3 
 
 Long do. 4 
 
 Mouth of Cataract riyer 23 
 Grand Schute,last rapids 42 
 
 Strawberry Islands 6 
 
 Mouth Quicksand river 26 
 Shallow bay (salt water) 136i 
 total 526S 
 Here the tide rises from 
 
 two to three feet. 
 Blustry Point 13 
 
 Columbia Bay 3 
 
 Clinkook river 12 
 
 Astoria, on Pacific ocean 13 
 total 5304 
 
 Columbia river enters the 
 Pacific ocean in lat.46° 19' 
 N. and long. 47** 57' W. 
 according to observations 
 taken on the spot by Lewis 
 and Clarke. Eastport, in 
 the District of Maine, is in 
 lat 44° 54' N. long. lO*' 40' 
 East. 
 
 Ibia76 
 
 14486 
 
 From Qt^e&ec, Lower Canada, to JSTew-Orleans, by 
 Montreal, through Lakes Ontario, Erie, Hvmm and 
 Michigtm; thmceup the Chicago, and over the Portage 
 to, and down the river Fhin, a Jiead branch of the Illi- 
 nois, and down the latter to the Mississippi, 
 
 Montreal, L. C. 
 Kingston, U. C. 
 Across lake Ontario > 
 
 to Fort Niagara \ 
 Falls of Niagara 
 Lake Erie 
 Head of the Lake 
 Detroit river 
 Lake St Clair 
 Lake Huron 
 Across lake Harem > 
 
 to Fort Mackinaw > 
 
 175 [Mackinaw straits 37 
 
 total 1164 
 Across lake Michi-? ^q 
 
 180 
 190 
 
 8 
 22 
 280 
 27 
 39 
 40 
 
 166 
 
 fan toFortDearborn J 
 Tp Chicago river,Ind. lOi 
 Over the Portage &~ 
 up the Plein to the 
 moction with the 
 Theakiki, the main 
 head branches of 
 the Illinois 
 
 total 
 
 > 151 
 
 1460 
 
31S 
 
 N. E. corner of Bounty ") 
 Lands, town. 15 N. [.60 
 range 10 E. J 
 
 Lake Peoria, Fort Clarke 70 
 total 1590 
 Spoon river 65 
 
 Mouth of Crooked creek 55 
 .Macopen creek 85 
 
 Mouth of Illinois SO 
 
 total 1825 
 St. Louis 45 total 1870 
 Mouth of Maramack 20 
 Harrison 8 
 
 Herculaneum 6 
 
 Fort Chartres 12 
 
 St. Genevieve 12 tot. 1928 
 Kasksiskia river, II. 24 
 Apple creek 40 
 
 Cape Girardeau 18 
 
 Great Rocky Bluff 11 
 
 Mouth of Ohio 28 tot. 2049 
 Iron Banks 28 
 
 N. boundary of Tenn. 30 
 New-Madrid 12 total 2119 
 
 70 
 12 
 
 29 
 30 
 
 32 J 
 28 
 
 First BluiT 
 Second Bluif 
 Third Bluff 
 Fort Pickering 
 Council island 
 St. Francis river 
 Horseshoe bend 
 Three islands 
 White river 
 Arkansaw 14 total 2405 
 N. boundary Louisiana 101 
 Starks island 3 
 
 Entrance of lake Pro- 
 vidence 
 Yazoo mouth '41 
 
 Walnut HilU 14 
 
 'Warren 16 
 
 SO 
 12 
 36 
 
 39 
 
 Palmyra bend 8 
 
 Lower end of do. 20 
 
 Big Black 13 total 2657 
 Bayou Pierre 12 
 
 Petite Gulf 9 
 
 Coles creek 13 
 
 Fairchild's island 7 
 
 Efflux Bayou 3 
 
 Mouth of Shillings 1 
 
 Natchez 5 total 2727 
 
 White Cliffs 11 
 
 Mouth of Homochitta 40 
 Mouth of Buffalo river 9 
 Fort Adams <8 
 
 Mouth of Red river 18 
 total 2807 
 Atchafalaya 3 
 
 Three sister islands 9 
 
 Bayou Tomica 28 
 
 Point Ceupee church 31 
 Mouth of Homer's creek 7 
 Patoris and Lilly's island 8 
 Gen. Wicors 10 
 
 Baton Rouge 8 
 
 Efflux of Iberville 13 
 
 Efflux of Plaquemine 8 
 Church of St Gabriel 10 
 total 2942 
 Donaldsonville £6 
 
 Gen. Hampton's 6 
 
 Bringre's 4 
 
 Contrelles two Churches 8 
 Fontine's 12 
 
 Bonnel quarry Church 14 
 Bonnel quarry point 5 
 Red church, German > 
 coast S 
 
 total 3031 
 Kenner's 6 
 
 M'Carty's 8 
 
 New-Orleans 6 total 3051 
 
 14 
 
 FINIS. 
 
8 
 20 
 2657 
 12 
 9 
 13 
 7 
 3 
 1 
 2727 
 11 
 I 40 
 !r 9 
 
 18 
 
 2807 
 3 
 9 
 28 
 I 31 
 reek 7 
 land 8 
 10 
 8 
 
 13 
 8 
 
 a 10 
 
 2942 
 26 
 
 :hes 8 
 12 
 ch 14 
 
 .'. S'. 
 
 14 
 
 3031 
 6 
 8 
 
 3051 
 
 .t ^-^^ 
 
 ■p .■ 
 
 ^wl