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TT 
 
 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS 
 
 OTIS TH 
 
 ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 
 
 M TM 
 
 MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER i 
 
 ■ ADB DOmNO THl Y1A«I !•«» AMD H««l 
 
 coHiAimmi mmr ' u wumoM o* «u 
 
 VALLEYS OF THE WILLAMETTE, UMPQJA, AND CLAMBTf 
 
 A Mmnut •■euniOM w 
 
 OREGON TERRITORYi 
 
 (^ m inABiTAim, ouH4n, toit, rsaBv«Tiom« iro.,if«i| I 
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 MECE88ARY GUTPrTO FOR 1MWRANT8| 
 
 Am A 
 
 Ciblf tf 9(itucw Uw «««* tt Ca«i» ra t|t &«vtt. 
 
 ALSOt 
 A L«l«r Aom th* IUt. H. H. Sp^liqt, t«f4ilei»l MImIo^mt, tof lh« >•« ••■ m^ 
 •mans ih* N.i P«rc* Trlb* of M\m», on rt* KiMM-koorkM Wf^i Tk« 
 OrgMle Lowoof OfMO" T.nilory | Trtlot of 6b«rt M wort. oTiho CW«ort| 
 Joirm, Md aboai mWotte of ilM Nm Ptn* LMtmi*) • DMortyiiM of 
 Mount Hood; luoidMM of TnivoI, ko.«ke. 
 
 BT JOMI. »AI4ni«. 
 
 CINCINNATI: 
 
 J. A. & U. F. JAMBB, WALNUT 8TRB1T, 
 
 nrrwESN wovtctH and nnH. 
 
 185t. 
 
EmsBB. Meotding to Acl of CongnH. In U» jmx 1847, by 
 
 J. A. & U. P. JAMBS, 
 
 In U» Olerk'i Offlee of th» Dtitrict Court of Ohio. 
 
 .<»• 
 
 
 OMIiniATI. 
 
 r— 
 
Um ymi 1847, hj 
 >urt of Ohio. 
 
 vo nil 
 PIONEERS OP THE WEST, 
 
 AND THUS DIIOBNDANTS, 
 *■■ BOm AVD MOICLB OF TBI OOHllVKITTi 
 
 WHontrmon amd tnuniraa eooarar nr tmua, 
 un nonet md wtmn it m wab, 
 
 «|f» orttk 
 
 It BUrUTTOU.* 
 
 DBDIOATBD. 
 
PUBLISHERS' ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 V^» ^^M^MWV^%'WW*^^|^^*^ " *'**^^^^ * ^ 
 
 Ik offering to the public a new work on Oregon, the 
 publiaherx frel confident that they are performing an^ 
 acceptable service to all who are desirous of obtaining, 
 full and conect information of that extensiye and inter- 
 esting region. 
 
 The facta contained in this Journal of Travels over 
 the Rocky Mountains were obtained, by the author^ 
 from personal inspection and observation; or derived 
 from intelligent persons, some of whom had resided in 
 the country for ten years previously. It contains, as is 
 believed, much very valuable information never before 
 published, respecting the Oregon Territory. 
 
 Mr. Palmer's statements and descriptions are direct 
 and clear, and may be relied on for their accuracy. 
 He observed with the eye of an intelligent farmer the 
 hills and valleys; timbered land and prairies, soil, grass, 
 mill sites, &c.; all of which he has particularly described. 
 
 To the man about to emigrate to Oregon just the kind 
 of information needed is given. He is informed what 
 is the best season for setting out; the kinds and quanti- 
 ties of necessary outfits; where they may be piachased 
 to the best advantage, so as to save money, time and 
 useless hauling of provisions, and to promote comfort 
 and prevent w^ering on the long journey. 
 
 i 
 
 J 
 
▼» 
 
 A pwticuUr account of Oregon city »• g»*en; **»• 
 »umb«r of homet and inhabitants; the number and 
 kinds of mechanical trades carried on; and the prices 
 current during the author's stay there. 
 
 Tha objects <rf natural curiowty on the route—the 
 Solitary Tower— the Chimney Rock— Independence 
 Rock— the Hot Spring^-the DevU's Qate-the South 
 Paa»— the Soda Spring, and many others— are no- 
 ticed. 
 
 The work is ealiTCMd with aaecdotes of mountain* 
 etr life — ihooting b^iffab — huntiiig bear — takiag 
 
 fish, lie. 
 
 Mr. Palmer mad* th« ascent of one of the highest 
 peaks of Mount Hood, almost alone, and with a T«ry 
 ■canty supply of piorisions. An extraordinary achieve, 
 ment, when the eircusartancei under which H WM 
 •ocompUdwd are takni into eonwttntioo. 
 
 CfcMfieirt, bmmarg, W4T. 
 
r. 
 
 f ii given; th« 
 
 le number ind 
 
 and the prices 
 
 the route — the 
 —Independence 
 3ate — the South 
 hen — * we do« 
 
 [ta ot motiBtain* 
 ; b«tr — takiaf 
 
 • of the higheel 
 ind widi • Tcrj 
 ordinvy achieve* 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 IMIM o< InionmMiois or D»«en»«l«»M of N«»r«l C«i««UM, ••» »• »«»" 1 
 
 0»|»»»»io«oriOflmpwiyloiraTrtloOr*r» [» 
 
 AfriTml et tiM MUa OMRtry [J 
 
 ElMtlMorO«MntoeoMl«M«tlM<»»pM]r JJ 
 
 BtfVwntUoik BIm Mm *• 
 
 PtoltolUm * 2 
 
 84riltai7TMm...^-..'.«"<'» • i: 
 
 CUmaajr lUdi^ *:'"',V*'.*1"!^ 
 
 Brt«Uliu«.lfi«n»o«bMHloniidlMe,M4lW»wWi Ik. 
 
 priMipel ChW. JJ 
 
 FwtLMsaie " 
 
 DvltoterrVMBim J* 
 
 RidBattM. IwlepwiieBe* Book •» 
 
 SwMtWfttwRim. D«tU'«0«»» • " 
 
 AiriT«l»»tfce8wBmU of Ike Rooky Mflwrtelne »; 
 
 Oram Birar or Coiondo "* ** 
 
 FortBildgw ♦ •* 
 
 BovBiver '••"Mfr"""-*'" 2* 
 
 Sod* 8prieg« •'•• •••• 2 
 
 8l««Bo.l»pH-f.....;.:... 2 
 
 Fort Hall »M*.»'""".»M««"?'j^'"«v ", 
 
 8Mke Blm .........'........■....".«•;..;.%.«.».••••••"•••" «^ 
 
 HotSpriogt 2 
 
 Fort Bote '• •• 
 
 PowdorBim '•• ^ 
 
 OiMdRoand • " 
 
 Blee M«mBtetae^Um»UHo Blm »• 
 
 ^^ ••.«••• i* 
 
AnlTa! tt »h# TolumM* RI«m •• 
 
 John D«y'i Rl»M. D«huto« Rif«r • •• 
 
 ArrivtUtiha DallM of ihaColumbl* RlfW •* 
 
 Mount llooa •• 
 
 ArriMi M Oregon City •♦ 
 
 SuUillet tie. of Owgon City •• 
 
 DaMripUona of th« V.IUyt of Uw WJIIamatto, Ump<|ut, and 
 Clamat, and tlM Country on tha Paeifte South of tha 
 
 Coluiubla •• 
 
 Mooihof J»aCoI«mbl» BWar ^1 
 
 Fort VaneouTM ||' 
 
 Country North of tha CclwbUu [J* 
 
 Hudaon'a BayCoMpany [[• 
 
 Prlooa Currant **• 
 
 SlalMnant of waalhar in Oragondaringtha wInUiof 'M* 40 lit 
 
 Commancar«lumtotha"8tataa" I» 
 
 Aaeend tha Columbia RWw In • *•«•» **' 
 
 •• Capa Here.' Caaeada Falla '■• 
 
 Fort WallawaUa - JJJ 
 
 Arriwl at Dr. WWtman'a Statloa I» 
 
 Arrifal at Mr. SpaWlnf'e Station. Dlffleultlaa with Indiana lU 
 
 Adrantoia with a band of hoaUla Indiana IM 
 
 NtetaaAnr OrrnTa ron BmaaAirra nAtmhtM w 0««o« 14t 
 
 Tabla of Worda of tha Chinook Jargon HT 
 
 •• •• of thaNwParealiMguaga IM 
 
 TkbUofDiatanoar • *•• 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Utu SpAtwini'a U+Tia. EiTtirr or CooirpaT; Climats i 
 APTARTAaia ron tbi Hbndirs aTanii j Mambt, Siab, 
 AWB Batb, !».,*« *** 
 
 OROANIO LAWS Of ORSOON ••. »W 
 
 /«-iC 
 
JOURNAL OF TRAVELS 
 
 eviKTU 
 
 ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 RTt CuMAnt 
 
 MAMtT, But, 
 
 fcl'^.^.fe.'v 
 
 Mi;iW -»C 
 
 H*m« eonel«l«d. ftom rtii b«rt inforni.Uon I wm .bl« to 
 obUin, ihtl ih« Oregon Ttrrltofr •«•'• !«•» »«««"<»«•"»■«« 
 •fflifrlno. I d.U.rmTn«J to »l.ti i» with • fiow of Mii.fjrin| 
 mvMtf In Mwrd u> it, ind of Meomlnlng by pwwn.1 ob.«. 
 mtkin whether iu •dv.nlMjw w«ro tufflelont to w.rr.nt m. lo 
 th« flffort t» m«k« it my ftiinro homo. 1 ttwtwl. •roordrngly, 
 0.1 the looming of th« lOih of April, 184», »■» ~'»|»«y *"«^ 
 Mr. Spencor Buokley. Wo •ipocl«) U> b« olnod ^ •.»«rtl 
 youn. men ftn.n R«.h»illo, Ind.. hot thoy •II .bwidoned iht 
 onlorpriM, »nd gave ui no other onowiregement than their 
 Mod Viehee for oor earceee end ••ftiy. I took eew of my 
 fimily, fri.nde and home, with • truly moltncholy heart I 
 had long looked forward and auffored In Imagmation the pain 
 of thia anticipated eeparalion » hot I had not taaUM^ of Iw rtal- 
 itiet, and none but ihoae wlio hare parted with a family under 
 •imilar eireumetoncea. can form any juat ooneepuon of the 
 depth and power of the emoUone which perf aded mybreMi 
 on that occaainn. The unAruking before me waa arduooa. 
 It might and doobtleee would be attended with variooa and 
 anknowM difflcoltlee, priratlona end dangera. A doubt aroae 
 in my mind, whether the advantogea, which were expected to 
 reaalt from the trip, would be likely to compentate for the 
 time and expenae neeeaanry to accomplish st: but I belieTed 
 that I waa ry*t, hoped tor the beat, and prwed onward. 
 
 We were favoured with a pleaaant day and good roadi, 
 iHMhMlUM in MHM difrM lo lUaaipst* th« slooa whieh 
 
10 
 
 JOURNAL or TIUVBI4 OVB* 
 
 I 
 
 had weighed down my epiriu upon leaving homt. Our day a 
 travel ei.led at Blue " River, rn llie banlii of which we en- 
 camped for the firat time on the long and tedioua journey b*- 
 
 jipril 17. Arrived at Indianapolia, in the aAernoon, where 
 we expected to rnent a number of per«)ni, who had expreaaed 
 a determin-iion to join the party. But here too, aa in tne 
 case of our Rushville frienda, we wore doomod to meet diaap- 
 pointmenlj— not one was found willing to join va in our expe- 
 dition. After having had our horeea vrekJ ahod, (w« |»v««a 
 in an ordinary vagon drawn by two hor»M,) •"o •>•»»"« '•»° 
 in a supply of medminee, we put up for th* night 
 
 w?i),5 18. We this day had a •ample of what MiAt ht 
 cMti the mithapi of trtvelere-w encounter with a wJd an- 
 imal. the tirat which we met in our journey. On^ of our 
 horses heooming bme,we wer« oblig«l to trade hiro away, and 
 received in exchange one ao wild, tlial it reouirjd ^t grea*st 
 -.igilance a«d exertSM on our p«r* t , ^ttrmA hi« Jw*" ">"; 
 nine away wiih our whole oonc«ra. W« r«ch*J Mount 
 Meridian aA«r a day', journey of about ihlrty^our mHea. du- 
 ring which we aueoeeded admiraWx »nto"»»«>l,«'' *i^ ,^»"^" 
 
 %rU 24. IU«»%«1 the Miaaiaaippi, oppoclte to St. Loul^ 
 havi!« traveled daily, and made the beat of our t»«t dW 
 leavimr Mount Metidiaa. ^, , 
 
 JtSil 25. W8 made a few purohaaw *'• J?*»*"!i» T' 
 mUm chiefly of Indian trinket^ tob«w». powder, ^^' 
 
 «,d.ii>on after, rewimed «>« MW •!»«» J*" S^Jf^^d 
 OhMlea, the Btttofliistiea for 8t.0h«l« oountr Werwolf 
 
 thii< pU« at Kho etoM of the day, and W!oamiv«d npaa tha 
 Slkirfthe Mkw^iri. which app^wa ta b. ibout ta wkIo as 
 STShio at CincianaU. i. a f-ir ••H* o^ wator , the curjjnt Ij, 
 quite sUoBgs the wetof very thick a«d muddy, "we, we 
 retook a compfwy cf Germana, from St. I^«. who I0A 
 
 Sowomeo and three ehildr«n » they *aveledjcith ^ w^ 
 dniwnby«xm»l«.«»d.«irtdniwnbytwo^ ^V^ 
 means of ee«»eya»ee for aoehe bat ajdtejwr ->k we 
 u»vtAmA the aame road vntil *Te reaehed Fort iU 
 SH/il^S. o'clock A. M. we eroa^i u.e rlTeno-i 
 
 «,mewhat unduUtirc 1 the aoiUUio«|k poorty wi»». .eppeMl 
 tA ba mod. ewl predaoe* reepeoifcble •7»P««.^ . _ . ^ 
 

 Tim BOCKY MOUHTAIN& 
 
 11 
 
 le. Our <!•▼'• 
 which wo en- 
 ua journey b«» 
 
 ternoon, where 
 had oxprewed 
 too, M in the 
 i to meet i\np- 
 V9 in our expe- 
 1, (we trkveled 
 ind haviug laid 
 jfht 
 
 what SfOight Im 
 with a wild an- 
 r. One of our 
 ihimeway.and 
 ,red the grea;e8t 
 him ffoai run- 
 reaoh«iJi Mount 
 four mileB, du» 
 our wild horae. 
 it* Ut Su Louie, 
 our tioM «Aer 
 
 B Borainf* eon' 
 twder, leao, Am. 
 he loai to Sl 
 \y.. W«r«aohed 
 mived Kipon the 
 txDUt ta wide aa 
 r; the current ie 
 dy. Here, we 
 LtHiit, who IM 
 led of Ami naii. 
 rt with ^ wafott 
 
 wA urn liytK mi 
 t thv uxMitry ia 
 wato».^«pnm 
 
 and unpleaaant. The country through which we paued ia a 
 tolling prairie : some parte of it are very well timbered. On 
 account of the eoarcity of aprioga, the people rely generally 
 upon their auppliea of rain water. There we were joined by 
 a clever backwoodsman, by the n«me of Dodson, who waa 
 making the best of hie lonely journey to join an emigrating 
 party at Independence; upon hie oonsienting to bear an equal 
 ahare in our expenses and outfit at that place, we took him in, 
 and traveled together. 
 
 Jpril 38. We atartad thia momiRv at sunrise, and traveled 
 to Lute creek, a distanee of aiz and a half mike. This stream 
 was so much swoUen, *n coneeqiMaee of the recent raine, that 
 we weve unable to ford it, and wet a fisrcod to encamp upon ile 
 hanks, and reo^ain all day. While tiiere, we were greatly an« 
 noyed by the wood-tieh-~m inseul reeembUng, in ana and in 
 other reapeelfe. the Aetg/^iek. Theee insects, with which the 
 bushes and even the ground eeemed to be oovered, faatened 
 ihemselvee with Sv<eh tenacity upon oar flesh, that when pick* 
 ing them off in the morning, the head would remain sttekiig 
 fiist to the nkin, causing in mo«t cases a painful wound. 
 
 Jlpril 39. We traveled about twentv-six milee, throt.'> a 
 gently undulating country : the principal crope consisted of 
 com, oats, tobaeeo and aome wheat. We pasued throvgh 
 Willianaboigh and Fulton. The latter town is the aeat of 
 JHStifo for OiilUway eoonty. 
 
 Jlprilta. We made an advanee of lOiout thirty miles 
 
 our halt and tuwicqped for the oighl, five aules weatward of 
 thik town. 
 
 Atfay 1. Weatartedthia momingat the aswd honr»andafter 
 » ride of eight miles, naehed and re-crossed the Miseoari, m 
 Kodieport, and oontioaed cor jootoey nntil night, paesing 
 thrm^h Eooneville, the oounty aeat of Cooper~« >ich and 
 fortile eoan^, making in all a rid* of tweoty-eiz miles. 
 
 JU^ % Peeaod ti»oi«h the town of Marshall, the aeat 
 cf jmtico for 8aliM county. Tha town stands npon an «U> 
 tatod pnitie» vptn which may be found • few groves of 
 4ht«hby timber. The oounwy upon this [the weet3 side 
 •pyeared to be mnek better snp^ied with wntar, than that 
 niioQ the enn aide* 
 
 tipiIMN 
 
 IMHiMIMNMI 
 
 J 
 
M JOURNAL C/ TRAVEUI OVBR 
 
 MtUed prairie country. The crop», cuUiftted genertlljr by 
 nejrroe*, consisted of hemp, corn, oats, snd a little whest and 
 tobacco. The soil appeared to be good, but the scarcity of 
 timber will prove a serious barrier to a complete settlemeat 
 
 of the country. . t. _u 
 
 May 4. We traveled twenty-three nailes this day, througli 
 a better improved and pleasantiBr part of Missouri, than any 
 we have yet seen. The crops appeared well; there were 
 fine orchards under successful cultivation. The country ia 
 well timbered, and there appears nothing to hinder it from 
 becoming the seat ol a dense and tJiriving population. 
 
 Mm 6. Reached Independence at nine o'clock A. M.; 
 and as tlie main body of emigrants had left a few days pre. 
 vious, we hastily laid in our supplies, and at five o'clock P. 
 M., pushed iorward about two mdee, and encamped upon th« 
 banks of a small creek, in company with four wacons, bound 
 for Oregon. Prom one of the wagone Uiey drew forth a laife 
 jug of whiskey, and before bedHhne all the men were com- 
 pletely intoxicated. In the crowd was a monntaineer, who 
 gave us a few lessons in the first chspter of a life among the 
 mountains. At roidniffht, when all were quiet, I wrapped 
 myself in my blanket, laid down under an oak tree, and began 
 to realise that I was ou my journey to Orejron. 
 
 May 7. After traveling about fifteen miles we halted and 
 procured an extra set of horse-shoes, and a few additional w». 
 gon bows. The main body of the emigrants is twenty-five 
 miles in advance of us : we have now paseed out of Mirtouri, 
 And are traveling in an Indian country— most of which is a 
 
 rolling prairie. ..,»«, j ^ , j 
 
 May 8. We started-at seven o'Hoek, A. M. and traveled 
 about twenty miles. Towards evening we overtook an emigra- 
 ting company, consisting of thirty-eight wagons, with about one 
 thousand head of loose cattle, all under the direction of a Mr. 
 Brown. We passed tills -ompany, expecting to overUke a 
 company of about one hundred wagons, which were but a few 
 miles befi»re us. The night, however, became so dark that 
 we were compelled to encamp upon the prairie. Soon after 
 we had staked our horses, a herd of wild Indian horses cam« 
 galloping furiously by us, which so alarmed our horaes ami 
 mule«. that they broke loose and ran away after tbem. Dod- 
 M>n and myself pursued, but were distanced, and after ninnihg 
 two or three miles, abandoned the chase as hopeless, and »!>• 
 ftaipied 10 f«ttM t6 ib« umpi Owing Ifr ibe^^hui*, w« 
 
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 II 
 
 id genenlly by 
 little whe»t and 
 the aearrity of 
 pleto settlement 
 
 liM day, through 
 iRouri, than any 
 ell; there were 
 The country ia 
 hinder it from 
 tulalion. 
 
 o'clock A. M.| 
 a few daya pro- 
 five o'clock P. 
 amp.d apon the 
 r waoona, boand 
 rew forth a laifo 
 men were oom- 
 onntaineer, who 
 a life among the 
 aiet, I wrapped 
 I tree, and b^an 
 n. 
 
 a we halted and 
 w additional mm- 
 ta is twenty-five 
 out of MiAouri, 
 wt of which is a 
 
 M. and traveled 
 Brtook an emigra« 
 IS, with about one 
 irection of a Mr. 
 ng to overtake a 
 h were but a few 
 .me so dark that 
 lirie. Soon after 
 Jian horses cams 
 I our horees and 
 fier them. Dod. 
 and after mnnirig 
 hopeless, and »U 
 tbe^idarkQAii. «• 
 
 were unable to find our camp, until the night had far advanced ; 
 and when we finally reached it, it required all my Iodic, sup- 
 ported by the positive testimony of Buckley, to convince Dod* 
 son that we wpre actually there. 
 
 May 0. At daylight, Dodion and I resumed the search for 
 our lost stock. After a fatiguing tramp of aeveral hours, I 
 came upon one oi ihe mules, which being hobbled, had been 
 unable to keep with the herd. Dodson was unsuccessful, and 
 returned to camp before me; during our absence, however, 
 the herd had strolled near the camp, and Buckley had aucceed- 
 ed in taking our two horaei. Having taken eome refresh- 
 menta, we atarted again in search of the lost animals. As I 
 was returning to camp, hopeleas, weary and hungry, I saw at 
 atiistence Doilson and Buckley mounted upon our two horses, 
 and giving chnse to the herd of Intlian horses, among which 
 were our two mules. The scene was wild, romantic and ex- 
 citing. The race was untrammeled by any of those arbitrary 
 and uaelcss rules with wiiieh the " knights of the turf" en- 
 cumber their races, and was pursued on both sides, for a nobler 
 purpose ; it was to decide between the rights of properly on 
 the one side, and the righto of liberty on the other. The 
 contest was for a long time doubtful; but the herd finally suc- 
 ceeded in winning the race, and poor Buckley and Dodson 
 were compelled to yield ; the former having lost his reputa- 
 tion as a sportaman, and the latter-— what grieved him moror— 
 his team t and both had ruined die character of their eouraeis 
 in auOering them to be beatan. Sad and dispirited, they re- 
 turned to camp, where, after a abort conanltation, it was unan- 
 imously resolved,^ — inasmuch as there was no othtr alternative, 
 —to aufler the mules freely and forever to enjoy the enlarged 
 liberty which they had so nobly won. 
 
 The day was nearly spent, but we harnessed up our team 
 and traveled four miles, to the crossing uf a creek, where we 
 encamped for the ni^t. 
 
 May 10. Re-considered our resolution of last evening, and 
 spent the morning looking for die mules— re-adopted Uie Komt 
 resolution, for the »amt reason, and then resumed our journey. 
 We advanced about eighteen miles through a very fertile 
 and well watered country, and possessing, along the banks of 
 the water courses, a aupply of bur and whita oak, ash, elm, 
 •od Mack wabut timber, amply sufficient for all practical pur- 
 poses. In onr travd, we crosised a stream called the Walk»- 
 rusha, tiffn^'"^ baek from which, about two miles in width. 
 
14 
 
 JOURNAL OF TKAVELS OVER 
 
 W0 diarovered a fine bottom covered with heafy bur oak and 
 bUck walnut limber. Aftor pasaing through thia bottom, the 
 tr»il atrikea into a level and beautifuT prairie, and crowing it — 
 a diiUnce of four milee— rices gradually to the ridi?e between 
 the Walkaruaha and the Caw, or Kanaaa river. We encamp- 
 ed upon the rid»te, in full view of the two atrcama, which at 
 this place are from six to eight miles apart. The banks of 
 both streams, as far as can be se«n, are lined, eitlier way, with 
 excellent timber: the country rises gradually from the streams, 
 fur fifteen or twenty miles, with alternate forests and prairies, 
 presenting to the eye n truly splendid scene. I noticed here 
 almost a countless number of mo«nrf«,ln diflTerent directions— 
 some covered with timber, others with long grass. ' The Caw 
 or Kansas Indians dwell along these streams. 'Through this 
 part of the route there are tvao trails, uniting near our camp ; 
 the difference in the distance is small. 
 
 Mau II. We traveled about twenty miles, and passed « 
 company of twenty-eight wagons. The road runs upon the 
 ridge, which after a distance of ten or twelve miles becomea a 
 broad rolling prairie. As night came on, we came up with the 
 company of one hundred wagons which we were in pursuit of: 
 they were eneamped upon the banka of a small brookt four 
 miles from the Kansas, into which it empties. We joined thia 
 eompany. At dark the guard was sUtioned, who becoming 
 tired of their monotonous round of duty, amused themselves by 
 •hooUng several doge, and by so doing excited no small tumult 
 in the eompany, which after some exertion on the part or the 
 more orderiy portion was quelled, and tranquaUv restoretl. 
 
 Mm 12. We traveled, about four miles to Caw ok^ KansM 
 rivw. This ie a muddv stream, of about two hundred and fifty 
 yards in width. We were obliged to be ferried over it in a flat 
 boat ; and so large was our company, and so slowly did the 
 ferrymen carry on the necessary operations, that darkness over* 
 took us before half the wagons had crosaed the stream, vw- 
 ing molestation from the numerous Indiana who were prowling 
 ateut, we wew compelled to keep a ationg guard around our 
 camp, and especially around our cattle ; and when all the pre- 
 liminaries had been arranged, we betowk ourselves to roat; but 
 our tranqaility was soon interrupted by one cf the most terrific 
 thnnder storms that I ever witnessed. It appeared to me that 
 the very 4m»M% had broken looee, and that each waa engag- 
 ing madly in a desperate struggle for the mastery. AU was 
 eonfiision in our camp. The storm had ao fnghlmcd th« ca>. 
 
 Mt>«M»«««C:«« 
 
THE ROCKY UOl'NTAlNS. 
 
 IS 
 
 a? y bar oak an<I 
 I this bottom, the 
 and crowing it— 
 [le t'n\fft between 
 r. ' We encBinp- 
 irrtmi, which at 
 . The banks of 
 eitlier way, with 
 Torn the atrpams, 
 BSti and prairiea, 
 . I noticed here 
 »rent directiona— 
 ;ra«s. /The Caw 
 I. '' Through thii 
 I near our camp ; 
 
 B«, and passed « 
 d runs upon the 
 
 miles becomes a 
 eame up with the 
 'ere in pursuit of: 
 imall bnwkc four 
 . We joined this 
 d, who becoming 
 led themselves by 
 id no small Inmuit 
 m the pMt of the 
 nility restoretl. 
 10 Caw ov Kansas 
 hundred and fifty 
 ed over it in a flat 
 10 slowly did the 
 Itat darkness over* 
 he stream. Fear- 
 ho were prowling 
 guard around our 
 
 when all the pre- 
 selves to re«t; but 
 cf the most terrific 
 ipeared to me that 
 t each was engaf> 
 nastery. AU was 
 frigfalmied th« eaV 
 
 tie, that they were perfectly furious and ungovernable, and 
 rushed through the guard, and dashed forward over the coun* 
 try before us : nothing could be done to secure them, and we 
 were obliged to sllow them to have out their race, and en* 
 deavor to guard our camp. 
 
 May 13. Early thia morning we succeeded in finding and 
 taking posaession of our cattle, and by noon all our wagona 
 had crossed the river. Soon after we took up our line of 
 march, and after advancing about three miles, encamped near 
 the banks of Big Soldier creek, for the purpose of omniting 
 the company by an election of oAoers} the officers iktn act- 
 ing having been elected to aerve only until the company ahould 
 reach thia place. It was decided, when at Independence, that 
 htrt there ahould be a thorough and complete onaniiatinn. 
 Great ioiereal had been manifeated ia rag8«d to tne matter 
 while upon the read ; but flow when we had reached the spot 
 and tlie period for attending to the matter in earnest had ar- 
 rived, the excitement was intense. The most important of- 
 ficers to be elected were the pilot andeaptain of the company. 
 There were two candidates for the office of pUot— one, a Mr. 
 Adams, from Independence^— 4he other a Mr. Meek, flrom the 
 same place. Mr. Adams had once been u far weet as Fort 
 Laramie, had in hia po s seesioo Gilpin's Notes, had engaged 
 a Spanisrd, who had traveled over tne whole route, to accom- 
 pany him, and moreover had been eonspiouoaslyinstruiBental 
 m producing the ** Oregon fever.** In ease the eompauy would 
 elect him pUot, and pav him five hundred dollars, M Mvancf, 
 he would bind himself to pilot them to Fort Vancouver. 
 
 Mr. Meek, an old mountaineer, had apent several years as 
 a trader and trapper, among the nountainsi and had one* been 
 through to Fort Vancouver ( he proposed to pilot ue through 
 for two hundred and fifty doUare, thirty of whioh were to be 
 paid in advance, and the balance when we arrived at Fort 
 Vancouver. A motion wu then made lo postpone the elee- 
 tion to the next day. While we were eonsidering the motion, 
 Meek came running into the camp, and informed ua that the 
 Indiana were driving away our oattle. Thii iatelligwMe caused 
 the utmost oonfti9ion: motions and propoallions, eandidalee 
 and tbfir specia'. friends, were alike dienfardedt rjilCM were 
 grasped, and hot n were haatily OKNiated, and away we all 
 galloped in pursuit. Our two thousand head of oatde were 
 ■ow acattered over the prairiei at a distanoo of four or fift 
 milis iirom the camp. 
 
 ■Pi 
 
It 
 
 JOURNAl. or TRAVEI-8 OVER 
 
 About two milei from camp, in full viow, up the prairie, 
 waa a imall Indian village ; the greater part of our ciirsged 
 people, with the hope of hearing from the loat catile, drove 
 nipidly forward to thia place. Aa they approached the vil- 
 lage, the poor Indiana were Been running to and fro, «n great 
 diamay— their women and children akulking about and hidmg 
 themaelvea,--while the chiefa came forward, greeted ourparjv 
 kindly, and by aigna offered to amnke the pipe of peace, and 
 engage with them in trade. On being charged with the theft 
 of our catile, they firmly aaaerted their innocence; and auch 
 waa their conduct, that the majority of the party waa con»in<^d 
 they had been wrongfully accuaed : but one poor fellow, who 
 had iuat returned to the village, and manifeated great alarm 
 upon aeeing ao many " pale facaa." waa Uken t and failing to 
 prove hia innocence, waa hurried away to camp and plaeed 
 under guard. Meanwhile, after the greater part of the oom- 
 p«ny had returned to camp, and the captain had aaaemhled the 
 judges, the priaoner waa arraigned at the bar for trial, and 
 the aolemn interrogatory, "Are you guUty or not guilty, waa 
 propounded to him: but to thia, hia only anawer waa — a 
 grunt, the import of which the honorable eoart not being able 
 clearly to comprehend, hia trial waa formally commenced and 
 duly carried throurii. The evidence brought forward •g««n"* 
 him not being aumcientto euatain the charge, he waa fully 
 acouitled; and, when releaaed, »»«/" for hia wigwam m the 
 Tillage. After the excitement had in aome degree aubaided, 
 and the affair waa calmly conaidered, it waa believed by moat of 
 ua that the ialae alarm in regard to the Indiana had been rawed 
 with the deaign of breaking up or poatponing the election. If 
 such WOM the deaign, it aucceeded admirably. 
 
 Mail 1 4. Immediately after breakfaal, the camp waa aaeem- 
 bled. and proceeded to the eleeUon of oftcere and the buameaa 
 of organisation. The election resulted in the choice of S. L. 
 Meek, u pilot, and Doetor P. Welch, formerly of Indiana, as 
 captain, with a boet of subalterns t sueh aa lieutsaants, judges, 
 
 After these rnattrn had been dispMed of, we harnessed op 
 our teams and trawled about five miles, aiul encamped with 
 Big Soldier creek on our right hand and Caw nver on our 
 
 The next day we were delayed in crossing Big Soldier 
 ereek, on account of the steepness of »«• banks; and advanced 
 only twelve miles through a prairie country. Here sixteen 
 
TlIB ROCKY MOONTAINft 
 
 17 
 
 r, up the prairie, 
 t of our eiiToged 
 loit eallle, drove 
 proached ihe vil- 
 and fro, in ^al 
 about and hiding 
 greeted our par>y 
 ipe of peace, and 
 ^ed with the thed 
 Dcence ; and aueh 
 rty waa convinced 
 poor fellow, who 
 ealed great alarm 
 en ; and failing to 
 camp and plaeed 
 part of the com* 
 had aaaemhled the 
 bar for trial, and 
 r not guilty," waa 
 • anawer waa~» 
 lurt not being able 
 y eommeneed and 
 lit forward againat 
 ■rge, he waa fully 
 his wigwam in the 
 9 degree aubsided. 
 telieved by hnost of 
 ma had been raided 
 ig the election. If 
 
 le camp waa aaeem- 
 re and the buainesa 
 ihe choice of 8. L. 
 lerly of Indiana, aa 
 lieuleaanta, judgae, 
 
 r, we harnessed up 
 uul encamped with 
 Caw river on our 
 
 oasing Big Soldier 
 anks; and adTaneed 
 try. Here sixteen 
 
 wagons separated from us, and we were joined by Bfteen 
 olhera. 
 
 Mtiy 17. W* traveled eighteen miles ovur a high, rolling 
 prairie, i'ud encamped on the banks of Liule Vermilion creek, 
 in aight of a Caw village. The principal chief leaidea at thia 
 village. Our camp here repleniahed their atorea; and, al- 
 though iheae Indians may be a set of beggarly thievea, ttiey 
 conducted themselvea honorably in their dealings with us ; in 
 view of which we raised for their benefit s contribution of 
 tobseco, powder, lead, die, and received in return many good 
 wishes for a pleasant and sueoeesful journey. After leaving 
 them, we traveled about twelve miles over a fertile prairie. In 
 the evening, after we had encamped and taken our supper, a 
 wedding was attended to with peculiar interest 
 
 May 10. This day our camp did not rise. A growing 
 apirit of dissatisfaction had prevailed since Ihe election; there 
 were a great number of disappointed candidates, who were 
 unwilling to submit to the will of the majority ; and to such 
 a degree had a disorderly spirit been manifested, that it was 
 deemed expedient to divide the company. Accordinglv, it was 
 mutually agreed upon, to form, from the whol* body, three 
 eompan'ies; and that, while eaeh company ahould select its 
 own officers and manage its internal affairs, the pilot, and 
 Capt. Welsh, who had been elected by the whole company, 
 should reUin their poete, and travel with the company in 
 advance. It was also arranged, that each company should 
 teke its turn in traveling in advance, for a week at a time.^ A 
 proposition waa then made and acceded to, which provided 
 that a coUecaun of funds, with which to pay the pilot, should 
 be made previous to the separation, and plaeed in the handa 
 ti some person to be ohoeen by the wMt, as treasurer, who 
 should give bonds, with approved security, for the fulfilment 
 of his duty. 
 
 A tNssurer waa accordingly chosen, who after giving the 
 neoeasanr bond^ collected about on* hundred and ninety doU 
 lars of the money promised ; some refused to pay, and othera 
 had no money in their poasession. All these and similar mat- 
 ters having been SHtisttotorily arranged, the separation took 
 place, and the companies proceedea to the eleetioB of the 
 neeeasary officers. The company to which I bad attached 
 Bvielf, consisting of thirty wsgons, insisted that I should 
 effieiat* u their captain, and with son* rslnetmc* I eoBseated; 
 W»d^p«BM(l with nmyxi the offiosn and IbraiUtiM wUeh 
 
 1 
 
11 
 
 JOVKKkh OF TIlAVKUi OVKIl 
 
 •silled in Um former conpinjr, tiid after adopting eeriam 
 reffulationi reapecting the government of the company, and 
 aettling other neeoMary preliminariea, we retired to real for 
 
 the night. .1 l _i. 
 
 Mw 30. We have thie day traveled flfteen mdea, throadi 
 
 • prairie country, with oeeaaionally a amall grove along the 
 
 ■treama. ... .. 
 
 May ««. Yeaterday after neving thirteen milea we eroM- 
 ed Big Vermilion, and encamped a mile beyond iU weet bank » 
 we foand a limeeloiie country, quite hilly, indeed abnoet ri-oun. 
 tainoua. To-day we have croeaed Bee, and Big Blue ere^i 
 the latter atream ia lined with oak, walnut, and hiekorv. We 
 encamped two and a half milea weet of it. Daring the night 
 it rained very h«rd. Our eattU beoanu frightened and all 
 
 '*jJ«f*M. Made tOHlay but eight milea. Our pilot notified 
 «• that thia would be our laat opportunity to procure timber 
 for axle treee, wagon Jontuee, Ac., and we provided a aupply 
 of thie important materiaL Our cattle were all found. 
 
 MttU «». Early thia morning we were paaaed by Col. 
 Keamay and hia perty of dragoona, numbenng abo«t thrw 
 bundM. They have with Ihem nineteen wagona drawn by 
 mnlee. and drive fifty he«l of eatUe and twentyfive head of 
 aheep. They go to the Sooth Paaa of the Roeky Mountawa. 
 Our travel of toKlay and yeaterday ia thirty-two milea, dunng 
 whieh we have croeaed aeveral amall atreama, akttted by 
 treea. The aoll looka fertile. . j nr^ 
 
 Mm 2fi. Overtook Capt. Welah'a company tonlay. We 
 peeaed twelve milea through a rolUng prairie regton, and en- 
 eamoed mi Little Sandy. , 
 
 A^ ST. A» it waa now the tnm of our company to travel 
 in adVaaoa. w. were joined by C^. We ah and our pik>t 
 The country ia of the aame character with that wa paaaea 
 dm>.gfa on yeaterday, and ia highly adapted to the P^^l^ 
 aetdement. having a good aoU. and atreama weU Imed with 
 
 "Afav »1. I« *e afternoon of the «8th we aftrnck the Be* 
 pnUiSn fork of Blue River, along whieh f«'^r'^^ »|2 
 £e route we were traveling. U banka *«fi^^'^^^ 
 biekory. and often open out mto wide and firrtde botlema. 
 hJZJ there we otaerved eotton wood «dwjtto^ The 
 pee vine growa wild, in great abnndanceoa the b ottome.^ TTie 
 pn U "in""** then oor eommoa gaiden pea sm aBsioea tie e 
 
THE BOCKT MOUNTAnm. 
 
 19 
 
 adopting etrriain 
 he companyt and 
 •lired to nat for 
 
 «n mUet, Ihraagh 
 1 grove aloof the 
 
 n milea we eroaa* 
 >nd ita waat bank ( 
 lead almoat ».2un> 
 
 Big Blue ereekai 
 indniekorv. We 
 
 Dnring the night 
 frightened and all 
 
 Oar pilot notified 
 to procure timber 
 provided a lupplj 
 9 all found. 
 « iwaaed by OoL 
 lertng abont thres 
 wagona drawn by 
 weniyfive head of 
 Roeky Mountaina. 
 r-two milaa, during 
 treama, akitted by 
 
 pany to^y. We 
 rie regioo^and en- 
 
 r company to travel 
 lah and our pilot, 
 th that, we peaaed 
 1 to the parfwee of 
 na well lined with 
 
 we atraek the Be* 
 for fifty milea lay 
 ifiord oak, uh and 
 ind fertile botteme. 
 andwiUow. The 
 tbebottoM. Tb* 
 vaiidnfindidtMit 
 
 pleaMBntvageUble. Wc saw alao a few wild turkita. Tonlty 
 we reached a point where a trail turna from thia atrcam, a dia« 
 Unce of twenty-five milee, to the Platte or Nebraska river. 
 We kept the left hand route, and aome nine or t»sn milea bo> 
 yood thia trail, we made our laat encampcaant on the Republi* 
 
 can Fork. , . , 
 
 JuM 1. We aet out at the uaual hour and eroaaed over the 
 country to Platte river ; having meaaured the road with the 
 chain, we aaocrtained the diatanee to be eichleen and a half 
 wiles, from oar eneampment of laet night. It ia all a rolling 
 prairie ; and in one apot, we found in poola a little atanding 
 water. Some two milee before reaching the Platte bottom the 
 prairie ia extremely rough t and aa far aa the eye can reach up 
 and down that river, it la quite aandy. We encamped near a 
 marahy »pot, ooeaaioned by the ovwrflow of the river, opposite 
 an island covered with timber, to which we wero obliged to go 
 through the ahallowa of the river for fuel, aa the main land ia 
 entirely deatitnte of treee. Near ua the Platte bottom ia three 
 and a half milea wide, covered with excellent grass, which our 
 eattle ale greedily, being attracted bv a aalt like aubatanee 
 which oovera the grass and lies aprinkled oc the surface of the 
 ground. We obaerved large herda of antelope in our travel of 
 to-day. In the evening it rained very hard. 
 
 JuM 9. Our week of advance travelin| being expired, we 
 reaolvod to make a abort drive, aeleot a auitable epot, and lay 
 by for waahing. We aceordingiy encamped about six milee 
 np Platte river. Aa I had been elected captain but for two 
 weeka, and my term was now expired, a new election was 
 held, which reaulted in the choice of the same peraon. The 
 captain, Welah, who waa originally elected by all the compo- 
 niee, had been with ue one week, and some diseataafaelioa waa 
 felt, by oar company, at the decree of authority ha seemed 
 disposed to exercise. We found, too, that it was bad policy 
 to require the aeveral companies to wait for each other;— 
 our supply of provision was eoosider'^'t Harely aufficient for 
 the journey, and it behoved ua make the ueat uae of our time. 
 At presont one of the companiea was supposed to be twaor 
 three daya travel in the rear. We adoptwl a resolutioB desir- 
 ing the sersral eompaniee to abandon the arrangement that r*> 
 quired each to delay for the others ; and that each company 
 should have the use of the pilot according to ita turn. Our 
 nropoeition waa not, for the pveeent, acoepted by the other 
 eonpuiies. Wlule we wew t our wtthiag eawm pmunt one 
 
 MHM 
 
JOURNAL or TII*VRij| OVKR 
 
 of the rompaniM paucd w, th« olh«r itill rtmtininf in lh« 
 n»f. ^ . , 
 
 Jtmt I. Havhiff traveled nbout tifht milM, w« halted at 
 anon, making thnrt drivea, to anabia tha raar company to join 
 «a. Wa have no tidinp of it aa yat. We met eeventy-flve 
 tr eighty Pawnee Indiana returning Trom their apring hunt. 
 
 Junt B. Y«terday we traiN?led iihooi twelve milee, paaainf 
 captain Stephena, with hie advance company. ToKlay we 
 traveled about the aame diatanee, auffering Htephena' eompany 
 to paea ua. At noon they were delayed by die breaking of an 
 azletree of one of their wagone, and we again paeaed them, 
 gre ady to their offence. They reftmed to aerede to our terma. 
 and we determined to aet on our own reeponelbilily. Wa 
 therefor* diaaolved our conneetion with the other eompankaa, 
 and thenceforward acted iadepandenthr of them. 
 
 Jutu 6. We advanced twenty mile* to^y. We iind a 
 good road, but an utter abeence of ordhnary fuel. We are 
 eonipelled to aubatitute for it buffalo dung, which buma freely, 
 /ime 7. We find in our aixteen milee travel to-day that 
 the graae ia very poor in the Platte bottome, having been de- 
 vourad by the buffalo herda. Theae bottom* are from two to 
 fotir mile* in width, and ara interaeetad, at every variety of 
 interval, by patha made by the buffaloe*. firora the bluffa to the 
 river Thea* patha are remarkabi* in their appearance, being 
 about Alteon inchea wide, nnd four inohe* deep, and worn into 
 the aoil aa amoolhly aa they could be cut with a apadr. 
 
 We formed our encampment on the bank of the river, with 
 three emigrating companiee within aa many milee of ue t two 
 above and one below i one of fifty-two wagon*, one of thirteen, 
 and one of forty-ihrao— our* having thirty-aeven. We find 
 our eatile growing lame, an<? moat of the company are oeeo- 
 pied in attempting to remedy the lameneea. The prairie having 
 bMB burnt, dry, aharp etuba of clotted graa* remain, which are 
 Tery hard, and wear and irritate die fiet of the cattle. Tha 
 foot beoomea dry and feverieh, and craeka hi die opmiing of 
 thj hoof. In thi* opening the rough bladea ef graae and dirt 
 eollect, and the foot generally flMtara, and awcB* very moeh. 
 Oor mode of treating it wa*, to waah di* foot with atrong aoap 
 aud*, aerape or cut away all the diaeaeed fleah, and then poor 
 boiliw pitch or tar upon the aore. If applied early thi* rem*, 
 dy will cure. Should tha haal baooma worn oat, apply l*r or 
 uiieh, and •ingt widi a hot hreti. At our eaeampoMBt tiMUgm 
 w* htw •boBdMiBt of woud for fM. *' -' '-' '^'■"■- " 
 
THB ROCUr MOUMTAINft 
 
 tl 
 
 I rtm lining in lh« 
 
 ilM, w« halttd at 
 r company to join 
 mal afl*«nty-Af« 
 )ir aprinf hunt. 
 ilf« milM, paaainf 
 my. To-day w« 
 icphma* company 
 th« brmking of an 
 lain paaaad iham, 
 Md* lo our tcrma, 
 iponaibility. W« 
 othm* compukMt 
 icm. 
 
 •day. Wd find • 
 ry fuel. W« ura 
 rhiflh burna freely, 
 travel to-day that 
 I, haviiw been de- 
 ne are from two to 
 I e»ery Tariety of 
 im ihe'blufla to the 
 •appeanmee, being 
 eep, and worn into 
 iih a apade. 
 i of the river, with 
 r miiee of ua t two 
 na, one of thirteen, 
 ^•Mven. We And 
 comptny are oeea- 
 The prairie having 
 r remain, whieh are 
 )f the cattle. The 
 In the opening of 
 a ef grua and dirt 
 awella very much, 
 oi with atrong eoep 
 leeh, and then pwnr 
 lied early thie nme- 
 >m out, apply tar or 
 netrapoMBt tiMdgbt 
 
 Jun* 8. We advanced to-day about twelve milaa. The 
 bntiom near our camp ia narrow, but abounda in limber, b«in| 
 covered with aah j it. however, aflbrda p«or groiinn. 80 far 
 aa we- have traveled along the Plaue, we flitd numeroua 
 iaUnda iu the river, and aoma of them quite large. In the 
 evening a roung man, named Foater. waa woundi^d by the 
 accidental diacharge of a gun. The loaded we«pon, from 
 which ita owner had neglected to remove the rap, waa placed 
 at the Uil of a wagon ; aa aome one waa lakinfc out a unl- 
 eloth, the gun waa knocked down, and went otf. Tlie ball 
 peeaed through a ap<ike of the wagon-wheel, atruek the felloe, 
 and glanced. Foeter waa walking tome two rode from the 
 wagon, when the half apent ball atraek him in the back, near 
 the aplne; and, entering between the »k\n and the ribe, came 
 out about tliree inehea from where it entered, making merely 
 • 8eah wound, k amall fragment of the ball bad lodged in 
 his arm. 
 
 Junt 9. The morning ia rainy. To^r we paaaed Ste- 
 phens* eompany, whieh naaaed ue on yesterday. Our diaaen< 
 sions are all healed ; and th«iy have decided to act upon our 
 plan. 
 
 Junt 10. Yeetitrdsy we traveled flfWen milea; to-day the 
 esme diatanee. We ind t,1e graiing continues iMwr. In 
 getting to oar eneampnent, we passed through a Isrge dog 
 town. Theee sinjralar communities may be aeen often, along 
 the banks of the Plalle, oceupying varioua areas, from one to 
 five hundred sores. The one in question covered some two 
 hundred or three hundred acree. The prairie-dog ie some* 
 thing Urger than s eommon sised gray aquirrel, of • dun color ; 
 the Lead reeemblea that of a bull dog: the taU is about three 
 Inehee In lengUi. Their food ia prairie graas. Like rab,Nls, 
 they barrow in the ground, throwing out hesps of earth, and 
 often large stones, which remsin at tn^ mouth of their holee. 
 The entranee to their barrows is sboat four Inches in diameter, 
 and nras obliqudy into the earth about three feet, when the 
 holes ramiiy in every direction and connect with each other 
 on everr efde. Some kind of jpoliee aeems to ht obserred 
 among raem 1 for at the spproMli of man, one of the dogs will 
 ran to the entrance of s burrow, end, squatting down, utter t 
 shrill btrk. At onee, the smaller part of the eomnanity will 
 rotroat to thoir holM, while Mmbete of the larger dogs will 
 •qnst, Uko the irst, at their doors, and nnito in the barking. 
 A Mtt approKh drives thtm ill aader grotmd. It is singtiUr. 
 
 
r 
 
 I 
 
 |g JOUIIMAt or THAVKUI OVtM 
 
 iMl lru«. Owl lh« liiiU •crtwh-owl •nd Um imlUtiir.!.* kMp 
 (h«nt «»inp«ny in lh«ir burro wt. I h«»« frtqu'i ' i«n tlit 
 owU, bul no» U»e ••)•>»•. wilh th«ni. Tha iiioum»u»««r«. how- 
 •var. inform m*. »h«i lh«y ofiiin ctif h all Uira* in Oia mom 
 hola. Tha dog la aauin by Uia In«lt<ina. wiUi quiia • raliah » 
 Md oftwi by Iha nounuinaara. I am noi preparad to apaak 
 of in quidiuaa aa an arUola of food. „ „, , . 
 
 Durinc iha nifhi, a muU, baloiif iii( to a Mr. Rialay, of our 
 rompany. broka from iia laihar. and in aUampiing Ui a«3ura it, 
 iu ownar wae rapwltdly ahoi al by iha guard ; but, foriu- 
 naialy waa nol hit. Ha had run from hia lant wiihoui having 
 
 baan p«'««i»«J ^V ^* •"•^» "^ *•* """l'?! "*" •*'1 
 fround. andaavoring to aaiia Um trail ropa, which *«• |»«d 
 To hia mula'a n«jli. Tha guard mUtook him for an IndUn, 
 Uviof to au»al horaaa, and oaliad to him aataral limea ; bul a 
 high wind blowing ha did not haar. Tha guard la»alad and 
 firad, but hia gun did not go off. Anothar guard, atuiduig 
 nmt, praaanlad hia piaoa and Ar«l 5 tha cap buraw wllhoul 
 diaohtrging tha Uwd. Tha Aral guard, by Uiia tima praparad, 
 Arad a awond tima, without affact By ihia tuna the camp 
 waa rouaad. and nearly all aaiiad ihair Araarma, whan wa 
 dUeovarad that tha auppoaad Indiaa waa ona of our own party. 
 Wa ragardad it aa providoniial that the man aacapad, aa tbf 
 cuard waa a good ahot, and hia mark waa not mora than an|hty 
 yarda diannu Thia incident mMie ua aomewhit mora oauUoua 
 •bout leaving tha rarap. wiUiout noUfying the fu«rd- 
 
 Jtau II. T<Mlay we Imelad ten or tweira mUea. Bill 
 mUea brought oa to tha • -« .'.oat^ng of PUtta riyer, wUwh 
 i. Ave oTaLi milea abof* W - .1 *, ^ wber« 'ho hi,h r««'»;^ 
 commence between t> ' • c *«^. • . Thera .. i ir.il which 
 turna over the bluff to tin* kill we however took the r^ht, 
 and croeeed the river. The aouth fork ia at thia place about 
 one fourth of a miU wide, ami from one to ihrae feet deen, with 
 aaandr bottom, which made the fording eo heavy that we 
 w"e «impeUed to double temna. The water Oirough the day 
 ia warm ; but aa Uie nighU are eool, it ia quiM cool enough in 
 he momkig. On the weat bmik of the river wi. encamped 
 Brawn'a e7mp«iv, which paaaed ua whiUt we were o^"»»"« 
 et Caw River. We paaaed Uiam,.nd proceeded ^\^» 
 wMt aide of the aoatli fork, and encamped on the nver benn. 
 At nicht our bunten brought in eome buffalo meat. 
 J2U iT y«Su-^ wa followed iht river aW«t thirteen 
 
TNll HOOKY MOUNT AIWA 
 
 r«llliiin«V« kMp 
 «qu' >' i*n ill* 
 ouiiuuM«ra, how* 
 >ir«<t in th« Mm* 
 h <|uit« a rsliah i 
 trapwati to apuk 
 
 f r. Rialay. of mu 
 piuif to a««ura it, 
 [uaru; bul, Tortu* 
 int wtlhuul having 
 cmwling o«ar lh« 
 , whkh waa liad 
 im for an IndUo« 
 aral limaa s but a 
 guard lavalad and 
 ir fuard, atanding 
 tap bum, without 
 hia tima praparad, 
 lia lioM tho camp 
 re-arma, whan w« 
 I of our own party, 
 tn «a«ap*d, aa tb« 
 tt mora than eighty 
 iirhatmorvoauuoua 
 la guard. 
 
 weTv* milta. Six 
 PUtI* rivar. which 
 arc *hc hi({h grouitu 
 »ra ^. 1 trail which 
 ar took the right. 
 A thia plaeo about 
 hrec fact deep, with 
 ao hoavy that w« 
 ler through tha day 
 uila eool enough in 
 iver waa encaniMd 
 wa wara oif uiiing 
 ocaedad alone tha 
 on tha riror Dank. 
 
 lo BIMt* 
 
 rifcr tboat thirteen 
 MKMdbelwMnthn 
 
 two forka aUihM ar roaa tha ridga toward tha Ncrth fork. To* 
 day wa have followad that route: diraclly acroaa, the diaUnc* 
 doaa not aicaad four milaa i but the road nma nbhqualy ba« 
 twtan tha two ■Iraama, and r«arhea <h« Nu/lh fork about nine 
 Biilea from our laat camp. Wa found quita a hill to daaceiid, 
 M the road runa up the bollom a half mile and then aarrnda 
 the bluff. Emigranu ahould keep the bluff aiitacn or a«van« 
 lean Milee. We deeeeoded a ravine and raated ou the bank 
 tt the river. 
 
 Jyna 1ft. Yeatarday we advanced eight miiea, and halted 
 lo waah and r« < our team*. W« have remained all thia day 
 in camp. At dayligtit ■ herd of buffalo apprunched near the 
 eamp t they were croaaing the river, but aa aoon aa they 
 eauf hi the aeent. they ratreaud lo the other aid«. It waa • 
 laughable aight to aae them running in tha wausr. Some of 
 our men having '>een out with their guna. raUirued at nuon 
 overloaded with buffalo m;ini. We then commenced jerking 
 It. Thia ia a pr(M>*aa reaorted to for want of time or meana to 
 aura meal by aalling. The meat ia aliced tliin, and a aeaffold 
 prepared, by aetling forka in the ground, about thr») feet htth, 
 and laying email pdea or aticka rroaawiae upon them. The 
 meat ia laid upon thnae piecea, and a alow Are built beneath | 
 iIm heat and amoke eompiatee the proeeaa in half a day | and 
 with an eeeaeional eunning the meat will kenp for month*. 
 
 An unoccupied apeelator, who could have behold ovr camp 
 tOHiay, would think it a aiogular apcclacle. The hunter* 
 returpinx with the ajpoU i aome ereetiiig aeaffulda, and other* 
 drying tne menl. Of the women, eome were waahing, aom* 
 ironing, aome baking. At two of tho tenia the fiddle wa* 
 employed in uttering ila unaeouaiomed voice among the aolip 
 tad** of the Platte i at one lent I heard ainging ; at other* til* 
 ocflupeni* were engamd in reading, aome the Bible, other* 
 poring ofer novele. while all thia waa going on, tliat nothing 
 night be wanting to eonplele the harmony of the aeene, » 
 Caapbollit* pmaeher, named Foeter, waa reading a hymn« 
 pr«pamtory to religioua worahip. The fiddlea war* ailenced, 
 and tho** who kaid b*en occupied with that amuaement, b&- 
 took th*aa*lv** lo eard*. Such ia but a miniature of tli* 
 great w*rkl w* had left behind ua, when we croeaed the lin* 
 that aepMite* einliied man from the wildemea*. Bul oveo 
 her* Ih* varlMy of oc«upation, th* Mtive esereia* of bodpr and 
 ■uad. *idi*r in labor or ^oasur*. th* eommiugltng of avtl nod 
 fM4 jImw d|*l lb* UImm** fal • Iro* OB*^ 
 
14 
 
 JOURNAL or TRAVBLB OVK« 
 
 Joiie 17. On o«r tmwl of eight mlM . y"^«?*yvr* 
 found the blufib quite ht^jh, oR^n .ppro»ch.«| wuli /'''"r^^V 
 fronu to the w.ter'i «dge. .nd now aiM) then . cejltr not.dln. 
 .'Te top. Our 2«nip, Jwt niiht, wh in « cedtr end mR 
 Ire! wifh . high. JVoinlng MuIt o»erh..glrt J. I b«t • wW. 
 bPttom with fine gnm •round ua, wjiA naw at hand an txeel- 
 E .pirr To JK fi»e mHea o»er the ridge brought uf ta 
 Act Bolif ;. Heri the trail, whieh f^^^^zhiT:^ll 
 the South fork of Platte, from where we «™^ '•' ~"^ 
 with thia trail. The road then tome down Aah Hollow lo the 
 rim Tquarter of a mile from the latter ie a An* •prlng, and 
 Ground it woS and graM in abnndanoe. Oar road, to^y. hae 
 
 pre«ntinj perpendicular elift of Jir^ hundred fog high. We 
 p...ed two compeniee. both of whleh wo had beforo ojjed^ 
 tut whilat w. wVre lying br on *• North fork, thty h^ tm. 
 veled up the South fork and deioended A* W»"«J»-^^^ p^ 
 
 June IS. We mete company of moontaineereflfomrort 
 T*/Mnie who had aUrled for the aelUeroente earty in the 
 ^.^n Wuh%.;Lu loaded -W' J^'T.lo ro^JJ^ «d «gj« 
 articles of ludlin traffic. The rim beeame •« ^''' J^^J 
 "ere obliged to lay by, part of »h« co-npjj^ hjdrojwnj^^ 
 the fort for teame ; othera were at the b<»t tending, wmw 
 Sien of Ae p."y were footi« their w.y to .»|e2*^.TW 
 were a iolly Mt of fellowa. Pcur wagone joinod Mfto« «>»• 
 TfToff diriaicma. and among them wu John No»-on. wuh 
 hU family, formerly of FrjnkUn cjmly. Indtej^^ tra- 
 
 veled fifteen mUaa, paaeing C»P«"i»8™i* • «*«|2J- _,,. , 
 
 June 19. FiTO milee, to-day, biwight ue to Bl^nf fT* j 
 
 elevrmilo- forther to «.other "^i^*»« "SiS^SSS^ 
 could not aaceruin t there we encamped, oppoelle the «»ottlary 
 ??wer S .Inpiler natural object i. •.•««P«<»T.P"S''k 
 MnHnd day, «> cemented aa to tumble atone, tut wh«h 
 ■crol^M«w?f atthe alighteat tou J. .^^^I'XjTi 
 aeten mile, distant from the mouth ^f »»»• «J»J « thlTSUr 
 appear, to be not moro than three. The hekh « «»J»T; 
 is somewhere between six h«n««"l •?f j'S" 1^ A. hi! 
 f«.m iha level of the river. Viewed flfom the port, the »•• 
 hollr milre.; ly^^^^^^^ he w- gaxing "PO",-"'^*^! 
 Sti^ of the old wSrld. A neater tppro^i ^^V^^J; 
 iUuslon, and it look., aa it is. ro«gh and l^^^'^^'^J^ 
 umiM, at it. north •W'^^'OT •H-b.rinjttp »5» «^^ 
 having been cut In it. fcee fotr that ^rpoM. n»« •«ono, qr 
 
 ■■^^ ig w wa — — ^K i *!— 
 
THE ROCKY MOVNTAmi. 
 
 36 
 
 M, yesterday, we 
 If witU their rocky 
 n a ee<l«r notiding 
 t t eedtr and asn 
 ipf oa } but a wide 
 > ail hand an exeel* 
 •idte brooght uc to 
 a the eaat aide of 
 roaeed il, eonneola 
 Ash Hollow 10 Uia 
 
 a Am spring, end 
 ar road, to-day, has 
 lly rofihy, at tiotea 
 dred feet high. We 
 lad beforo paseed; 
 , fork, they h«d trap 
 h Hollow, 
 ntaioeere from Foit 
 nents early in the 
 Jorobee, and other 
 ne so low. that they 
 any had returned to 
 boat landing, while 
 oiNeBtalMi. They 
 I joined OS fVom one 
 ■ John Nebon, with 
 
 Indiana. We trf 
 ,*a eenpany. 
 ue to spring ereekt 
 lO name of which I 
 oppoelle the Solitary 
 a Btupendooe pile of 
 ble stone, kut whieh 
 eoneeivo it is aboat 
 he oreek; though It 
 
 height of this tower 
 1 eight hundred foot 
 m Sie road, Ae bo- 
 kg upon some aneient 
 ipproaeh dispsls the 
 nnseemly. m etn bo 
 gttpthetrook; hdea 
 m, 'nt6iM0Bd,qr 
 
 main bench, can be ascendrti with greater ease at an opening 
 on the south side, where the water hHs washed out a crevice 
 large enough to Silrnit the body ; so that by pushing arainst 
 the sides of the cievi::e one can forue himselr upward fifteen 
 or twenty Teet, which p!aces the aiivontiixer on the slope of 
 the second b«nch. Passing round the eastern point of the 
 tower, the ascent may be continued up its north face. A 
 stream of water rune along the north-easlarn side, some 
 twenty rods distant from the tower ; and deep ravines sre cut 
 out by the washing of the water from the t twer to the creek. 
 Near by sUnds snoiher pile of materials, simiiar to that com- 
 posing the tower, hut neither so Urge nor so high. The 
 bhifls in this vicinity appear to be o** the same material. Bo- 
 tween this tower and the river stretchee out a rolling plain, 
 barren and desolate enough. 
 
 Jwte 80. Traveling fourteen miles, we baited in the neigh- 
 bprhood of the Chimney Rock. This is a sharp-pointed 
 rock, of nvtich the same material as the Solidary Tower, stand- 
 ing at the base of the bluflT, and four or five miles from the 
 road. It is visible at a distance of thirty mil-v?, and has the 
 unpoetical appearance of a hay-stack, with a poie running &r 
 above its top. 
 
 June 24. Since the 20th we have traveled about sixty-two 
 milee, and are now at Fort Laramie ; making our whole travel 
 from Independence about six hundred and thirty miles. On 
 the 22d we passed over ScoU's Bluffs, where we found « 
 good spring, and abundance of wood and grass. A melan- 
 choly tradition accounts for the name of tins spot. A party 
 who had been trading with the Indians were returning to the 
 States, and encountering a band of hostile savaces, were robbed 
 of their peltries and food. As they struggled homeward, one 
 of the number, nam?'* Sooit, fell sick and could not travel. 
 The otiien remained with him, until the sufferer, despairing 
 of ever beholding his home, prevailed on his companions to 
 abandon him. They leA him alone in the wilderness, several 
 miles from this spot Here human bones were aAerwards 
 found; and, suppcwing he had crawled here and died, the sub* 
 sequent tnvelera have given his name to the neighboring 
 bluff. 8 » 
 
 June 85. Our camp is stationary to-day ; part of the emi- 
 granU are shoeing their horses and l jcen ; othen sre trading 
 at tlie fort and with the Indiani^ Flour, sugar, cofl'ee, tea, to- 
 bacco, powder and lead, sell r^dily, at high prices. In the 
 
 iw&ikMMaHMVaUa 
 
 MMaMnMMxaMnMiWMHnuK 
 
is 
 
 JOORNAI. OF TRAVKLB OVER 
 
 afternoon v,« rt»e the Indians a fewt, »nd held a long iajk 
 ^Zm. L?ch family. « they could beat -Pa;* "; «J"J;; 
 hated a Dortion of bread, meat, coffeo or augar. which be ng 
 cr»id.Kbl!; wa. aet by apreaJhg buffJo .km. upon the 
 n*ft.,«^ and arrai.jrirt» the prorieion. upon them. Aroond 
 S?. "ftracSve b3 tEe Indian chief. anJtheir principal men 
 i^"ttS tTem.eWe.. .Iccupying one fou.lh of '^f ««»« I STiTt 
 n..indflr of the male Indians made out the wmi-cirtlo; the re.t 
 SeVirdewreompleted by »he white.. The.qu.w.«d 
 vounwr Indian, formed an outer wsmi circular row nnmedi- 
 JS^jChSd their duaky lord, and fathers. JT? C" ^S 
 warrior, were now designated a. waiters, and «H *h«.Pf P"«- 
 Jon" Sing completed, the Indian chief. •"«» P"-*?'?"!""*" 
 .Zk iMinS.. and at a .ignal the white chief performed the 
 ;lme ceremony, commencing with the principal chwf. and 
 .Sng hirand tho«e of hi. follower, who compoaed the ftr.t 
 dSrof the circle, the other, being eoneidered mfenor.. 
 
 ThJ telk pr^eS'^e dinner. A trader acted a. i«U^«t«r 
 The chief informed ua. that - a long while ago •<>"• *tVi"* 
 p«.s«l up the Missouri, through hi. country. «y"W *£''*'* 
 Ee re^l man', friend., and that a. the red roan found them, w 
 •«dd hrfind alt the other pale face.. Thi. country belong. 
 toThe 5rt man, but hi. white brethren travel, thwugh, .hoot- 
 
 thf t he Sepend. upon to .npport his wives and f >»•""". The 
 Sldren oFihe redSnan cry for foa^^« *"« '"JL"^^ ^e 
 on the other hand, the Indian profits by the ^J^^ 
 white man. He wa. riad to «>• u. -nd "^^.-^S-t; 
 It wa. the custom when the pde fcoe. P^^^'WjT" 
 IZ^, to make preaenm to the Indian, of fowiet^J^^. Jc. 
 mBttlbt wa. Tcry numerou., but the mo.t of Oie people h«l 
 S.netoJmo«Sin.tohttBt. Before the white man^ejime. 
 Se game wa. tame, and e..ily caught, with •»»• ^ow "dar. 
 WW Now the white man ha. frif^iteBed i», and the red man 
 "r.'t go to the mountain., m red man tmAtA loi« gun./' 
 Thi., with much more of the like, made up Uie t.& of the 
 ohief. when a reply from ©w •«• w» expect^. 
 
 S iTd"olved on me to play the part of the wb.hich«U 
 told my red brethren, that we were i^»rJ»i.^Jl^ 
 water, of the wwt. Our great father owned a luff -oon^ 
 Tere, .nd we were going to .etae upon it. F«' *-P«^. 
 we brought with u. our wife, and litUe one.. We w*re com- 
 
TIOB ROCKY MOVNTiI.<n. 
 
 17 
 
 icid a long talk 
 I spare it, contri- 
 ^r, which being 
 •kin* upon the 
 them. Aroaml 
 sir principal men 
 le circle ; the re- 
 li-circlo; ihe reat 
 The squawa ami 
 liar row iinmedi- 
 Two aiout youug 
 1 M the preparw- 
 id prineipal men 
 ief performed the 
 incipal chief, and 
 sompoaed the ftrat 
 uidered inferiora, 
 
 ;ted as lAterpreter. 
 ■onse white ohieA 
 •aying they were 
 an foand them« ao 
 a country belongs 
 )ls through, ahool* 
 he Indian loeea mil 
 nd ehiMien. The 
 ire ia no food. But 
 he trade with the 
 neet ?s as friends. 
 taased tlinwgh hia 
 ' powder, lead^ &». 
 ; of the people had 
 ) white man came, 
 h the bow and ar« 
 H, and the red man 
 leaded long guna." 
 up the ta& of the 
 
 BCU?d. 
 
 f the while ehicf, I 
 leying to the great 
 ned a lane eoantry 
 For Aia purpose 
 Bs. We were com- 
 
 pelled to pass through the red man'a country, but we traveled 
 aa friends, and not as enemies. As friends we feasted them, 
 shook them by the hand, and smoked with them the pipe of 
 peace. They must know that we came among them as friends, 
 for we brouffhl with ua our wivea and children. The red man 
 doea not tue his squawa into battle : neither doea the pale 
 face. But friendly as we felt, we were ready for enemies ; 
 and if molested, we should punish the offenders. Some of us 
 expected to return. Our fathers, our brothers and our chiklreii 
 were coming behind us, and we hoped the red man would 
 treat them kindly. We did not expect to neet so many of 
 them ; we were glad to see them, and to hear that they were 
 the whit* man's friends. Wo met peacefully— eo let us part. 
 We had set them a feast, and were glad to hold a talk with 
 them ; bat wo were not traders, and had no powder or ball to 
 give them. We were going tu plough and to plant the zround, 
 and had nothing more Uian we needed for ouraeWes. we told 
 tliem to oat what was before them, and be aatisfied ; and that 
 we had nothing moie to aay. 
 
 The two Indian servants began their servieea by placing a 
 tin cup before eaeh of the guests, alwaya waiting firat upon the 
 chiefa ; they then diatribnted the bread and cakes, until each 
 peraoD had aa much aa it was supposed he would eat} the re- 
 mainder being delivefed to two aquawa, who in like manner 
 aerved the aquawa and ehiklren. The waitera then distrRMited 
 the meat and eoffee. All waa order. No one touched the 
 food before him until all were aenred, whe.i at ■ aignal from the 
 chief the eating began. Having filled themselves, the Indiana 
 retired, taking with th«m all that they were mable to eat. 
 / Thia is a braneh of the Sioux nation, and tiiose living in this 
 r^ion number near fiAeen hundred lodges. They are a healthy, 
 atbletie, gootl4ooking aet (^ men, and have aecordinf to the 
 Indian eode, a reapeclaUe sense of honor, but will steal when 
 they can do so without fear of detection. On this occasion, 
 however, we miaaed nothing but a frying pan* which a squaw 
 slipped under her blanket, and made off with. Aa it was a 
 trifliof loss, we made no complaint to the chief. ' 
 
 Here are two forta. Fort Laramie, aitualed upon the west 
 side of Laramie'a fork, two milea from Platte river, belonga to 
 the North ijoeriean Fur Company. The fort ia built of 
 tubfba. The walla are about two feet thick, and twelve or 
 fourteen feet high, the tops being picketed or apiked. Posts 
 are planted in uese walls, and aupportthe timber for the roof. 
 
|g JOVRNAI. OF TRAVELS OVER 
 
 They are then cotered with mud. In the centie ie j»n open 
 square, peihapa iwenty-five yard- each way, along the aide* 
 of which are ranged the dwellings, alore roomB.8mith shop, 
 carpenier'a 8lu)p, offices, &o , all fronling upon the "»n«area. 
 There are two principal entrances ; one at the north, the oth- 
 er at the Bouih. On the eastern side w an additional wall, 
 cnnnecled at its extremities with the first, enclosing ground for 
 •table* and earrtU. This enclosure hae a gateway upon lU 
 south aide, and a paasage into the square of the pnncipal en- 
 elosuie. At a ahort diaunce from the fort la » fteW of about 
 four acres, in which, by way of experiment, corn la planted ; 
 but from iu preaent appearance it will probably prote a rail- 
 ure. Port John aUnda about a mile below Fort Laramie, and 
 U buUt of the same material as the latter, but u not so e«l«a- 
 aive. Its present occupants are a company firom St. Louis. 
 
 June 26. TKis day, leaving Fort Laramie behind us, we 
 advanced along the bank of the river, into the vast regKm J«t 
 waa atill between ua and our deatioation. Alter moving five 
 mil<!s, we found a good apot for a eamp, and as oar teama attU 
 required leat, we halted and encamped, and determiBed to re- 
 pose unul Saturday the asth. 
 
 June 28. A drive of ten miles brought M to Big t»prtng, • 
 creek which bursts out at the bMO of a hill, and rona down * 
 aandy hollow. The spring is one fourth of a mile belowthe 
 road. We foimd the water too warm to be pw«««We. Five 
 miles beyond the ereek the road forka; *• «<»t »ha nght hand 
 trail, which ia the best of the two, and traversed the Blacfc HUM, 
 as they are called. The season hae been ao dry that vegeUUon 
 ia literally parched up; of coursa the graaing is miscrrtle. 
 After proceeding eighteen miles we encamped on Bitter Cot- 
 tonwood. _!. 41. -I. 
 
 June 29. To-dav we find the country venr rough, though 
 our road is not bad." In the morning eome of our cattle were 
 missing, and four of the company started back to hunt for them. 
 At the end of fourteen milea we reeled at'Horae Shoe creek, 
 a beautiful stream of clear water, lined with tteee, and with 
 wide bottoms on each sWe. covered with excellent grass. At 
 this point our road waa about three miles from the river. 
 
 Juh 1. As ihe men who left the company on the Mth, 
 to look for our lost cattle, were toot returned, we remained m 
 
 • Knee the abovs waa writtea. the NoHh American Fer Qoaapany hdt 
 
 |Nin!ha«dFortJ6hD.uiddemoiiiihedit ' ,vi ; .ujsu- . ,.- 
 
TRB ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 mtit iff «n opon 
 , mlonf the •ides 
 onifl, imith shop, 
 on the innet trea. 
 he north, the oth- 
 I udditioml wall, 
 Bloeing ground for 
 giusway upon iu 
 the principal en- 
 R a field of about 
 
 corn is planted ; 
 My prove a faiU 
 Port jLaramie, and 
 t ia not ao ezten- 
 firom St. Louia.* 
 nie behind w, we 
 be vaat region that 
 
 After moving five 
 1 as oar teama atiU 
 i determiaed to re> 
 
 ae to Big Spring, a 
 I, and mns down a 
 r a mile below the 
 w palatable. Five 
 look the right hand 
 ■ed the Black Hills, 
 ) dry that vegetation 
 aitng is miserable, 
 nped on Bitter Cot- 
 very roogh, though 
 I of our cattle were 
 ick to hunt for them, 
 t Horse Shoe creek, 
 flih trees, and with 
 excellent grass. At 
 rmm the river, 
 npany on the SOth, 
 led, we remsined in 
 
 on For Comfuafhit 
 
 camp yesterday. Qame ■eomnd Hbundnnt along the rrefk, 
 And our eflbrta to protit by it were rewarded with three elk 
 and three deer. To-day our eatUe huntera still remain behind. 
 We aent buck a reinforcement, and hitching up our teams 
 advanced about aixlecn milee. Eight niilra brought ua to the 
 Dallea of Platte, where the river burata through a moanuin 
 epur. Perpendicular clifla, rising abruptly from the water, 
 five hundred or aix hundred feet high, form the left bank of the 
 river. Theae clifia present vnrious strata, some resembling 
 flint, othera like marble, lime, itc. The moat intereating fea« 
 ture of these magnificent masaes, ia the variety of colore that 
 are presented ; yellow, red, black end while, and all the ahades 
 between, as they blend and are loat in each other. On the top 
 node a tnft of scrubby cedars. Upon the south side, a narrow 
 alope between the Muff and river, aflfoida a pass for a footman 
 along the water's edge, while beyond the bluff rises abruptly. 
 Frequently cedar and wild sage is to be seen. I walked up 
 the river a diatanee of half a mile, when I reached a spot 
 where the rocke had tumbled down, and found something of a 
 slope, by which I could, with the aasiaHuiee of a tong pole, and 
 another person sometimee pushing and then pulling, ascendi we 
 sacoeeded in elambering up to the top— whith proved to be a 
 naked, rong^ black rook, with here and there a scrubby cedar 
 and wild sage bnsh. It appeared to be a (dace of reaort fo? 
 raouBtain sheep and beare. We followed this rid^e south to 
 where it gndaally deeeended to the road. The river in thia 
 kanjfon ia about one hundred and fifty yarda wide, and looks 
 deep. At the eastern end of thia Aonyen comes in a stream 
 which, from appearance, conveys torrents of wster at certain 
 seaaons of the year. Here, too, is a very |ood camp. By 
 going up the right band branch five or aix miles, Uien turning 
 to the right up one of the ridges, and eroaaing a email branch 
 (which ioina the river six or seven miles alwve the ftanyon) 
 and etriking the road on the ridge Uiree miles eaat of the Big 
 Timber creek, a saving might be made of at least ten miles 
 travd. We did not travel this route ; but, flrom the appear- 
 ance of the country, there would be no difficulty. 
 
 Jul^ 3. This day we traveled about sixteen miles. The 
 Toed left the river bottom soon after we etarted. A trail, how> 
 ever, croaaes the bottom for about two miles, and then winds 
 back to the hill. The nearest road is up a small sandy ravine, 
 for two milee, then tarn to the right up a ridge, and follow 
 this ri4ge for eight or tea miles. At the dislsnos of thirteen 
 
80 
 
 jouRNAii or TiuvELi ofvra 
 
 or fourleeit railei, the road which turned to lh« Uft n«r the 
 Bic Spring, connecu with ihii. The ro«d then turn, down 
 the hill to the right, into a dry branch, which it deecende to 
 Bis Timber creek, where we encamped. 
 
 Jvlu a. Thie day we uaveled about fifteen milee. Bix 
 niilea brought ue to a email branch, where ia agood camp. 
 Near ihU branch there ia abundance of marble, variegated with 
 blue and red. but it ia fuU of aeama. The hilla in thia vieimty 
 «re of the red ehale formation. In the moonUin near by la 
 atone coal. The hilla were generally covered with graaa. 1 he 
 ■treama are lined with coUon wood, willow and bosaider. The 
 
 road wae very dunty. ., . j .l -j 
 
 July 4. We traveled about fifteen milee to^y, the road 
 cenerally good, with a few difficult placee. Two wagona 
 upaet. but Tittle damage waa done. We croeaed we™ beati. 
 tiful atreama, flowing from the Black hilLt they are Imed wiA 
 timber. ToKlay, aa on yeeterday, we found .bunduiea of nO, 
 yellow and black curranta, with aome gooaeberriea, along tne 
 
 July 6. We thia day traveled about twelve milee. Three 
 milee brought ua to Deer creek. Here ia an "»«U«nt ««^ 
 ground, lome very good botuwn land. The banka are lined 
 with Umber. Slone coal waa found ne«p the road. Thie 
 would be a auiuble place for a fort, aa the aoil and Um^ i* 
 better than ia gennrally found along the upper PUtte. Gun* 
 in abundance, auch aa elk, buffalo, deer, antelope and bw. 
 The timber ia ehiefly cotton wood, but there la pine on the 
 mountaina within ten or twelve milee. Tho road waa gene- 
 rally along the river bottom, and much of the way extremely 
 barren. We encamped on the bank of the "riw. 
 
 July 6. In traveling through the aand and hot aan,oar 
 wairon Urea had become looae; and we had wedged unul the 
 tir? would no longer remain on the wheela. One or two axle. 
 treea and tonguee had been broken, and we found it «>«M«nr 
 to encamp and repair them. For thu purpoae aU hande were 
 boaily einptoyed. We had neither bellowe nor anvil, and of 
 S ZdL cut and weld tire. But m a -ubaUhiUj, w. 
 took off the Ure. ahaved thin hoopa and tacked Aem on the 
 felloea. heated our Ure and replaced it. Thia we found to aiK 
 
 8wer a stood purpoae. .. • : 
 
 Juivl. Thia day we traveled about ten milee. In eroaaing 
 • amall ravine, an axletree of 0!»e of Um wagona wae broken 
 
THE BOCKY MOUNTAINS 
 
 ai 
 
 n left naar tho 
 m luriM down 
 il dflacendt to 
 
 m milM. Six 
 I ■ good camp, 
 rsnegated with 
 in (his vieinitf 
 ilain nmr bv is 
 ithgrut. Tho 
 boxaldor. Tho 
 
 o^ay, tho road 
 Two wogona 
 id Mvenl brau> 
 f MO linod with 
 nindoneo of red, 
 irrioo, olonf tho 
 
 ) miloi. Throo 
 
 exeoUent eomp 
 
 bonlu are lined 
 
 he road. Thia 
 
 il and timber ia 
 
 r Platte. Game 
 
 elope and boar. 
 
 ia pine on tho 
 
 ) road was geae- 
 
 I way extremely 
 
 ver. 
 
 md hot saot oar 
 wedged until the 
 One or two axlo> 
 tand it neeessary 
 e all hands were 
 lor anviU and of 
 a substitute, we 
 ked them on the 
 I we found to an- 
 
 liles. IneroBsing 
 {ons was broken 
 
 The road is mosUy on tho river bottom. Much of Uie country 
 
 is barren. , • ... 
 
 July 8. Six miles trsTol brought us U> tho c«»ssmg of the 
 north fork of the Platte. At 1 oMock. P. M. aU were safely 
 over, and wo proceeded up hsif a mUe to a grove of Umber and 
 encamped. Near tho crossing was encamped Colonel Keur- 
 ney's regiment of dragoons, on their return from tlie South 
 Pass. Many of them were sick. .. , . , , 
 
 July 9. We traveled about ten miles this day, and en- 
 cnmpe'd at the Mineral Spiing. The rwid loaves the Platte at 
 the croesing, and passes over the Red BuUt: The plams in 
 litis region are literally covered with buffalo. 
 
 JtUu 10. Today we traveled about ten miles. The rango 
 is venr poor, and it has become necessary to divide into small 
 parties, in order to procure forage for our cattle. Out of the 
 company five divisions were formed. In my division we had 
 eleven wagons; snd we travel more expeditiously, with but 
 litde difficulty iu finding grass for our catde. 
 
 July 1 1. Wo this Aiy traveled about twelve miles. Soon 
 after starting we passed an excellent sprin«: it is to the right 
 of the road, in a thicket of willows. One fourth of a mile lur- 
 ther the road ascends a hill, winds round and passes several 
 marshy springs. The grase is very good, but is confined to 
 patohes. Our eamp was on a sroaU branch running into tho 
 
 Sweet Water. , , , j n^.u 
 
 July 18. This day w# arrived at Jnatpendence Jtoek. 
 This IS a soliury pile of gray granite, Htanding in on open 
 phin. It is about one-eighth of a mile long and some six or 
 eiffht rods wide, and is elevated about sixty or seventy feet 
 alrave the plain. On the iiorthnwistern side the slope is auf- 
 ficienUy gradual to be easily ascended. Portions of it are 
 oovered with inscriptions of the names of travelers, with the 
 dates of their arrival— some carved, some in black P*""'* and 
 others in red. Sweet Water, a stream heading in Uie Wind 
 River Mountains, and entering the Platte, runa immediately 
 along its southern side, leaving a strip of some twenty or Uiirly 
 foetof grassy plain between the base of the rock and the cret*. 
 We encamped two mdea above the rook, having traveled about 
 
 thirteen miles. , _,, 
 
 July 13. We traveled about thirteen miles this day. Three 
 mUes brought iia to the Gap, or Devifa Gate, as it is someUmes 
 fidled. The Sweet Water breaks through a spur of the moun- 
 tMB, whtpb frwn «ppe«raaot i« four of fivft hu#r«4 f«et higii. 
 
g| JOOMfAL or TRATSUI OVBR 
 
 On lh« wulh lidfl th« rook« project over the ttr«m, hot on 
 the norlh ilope b«ck a lilUe. The whole mounuin ie « mnee 
 of grey granite rock, deatilule of vrgeUtion, aave an oecaaional 
 •cnibhy cedar or buah of arteminia. From where the creek 
 enlera to where i« emergee from thia kanyon ia lliree or four 
 hundred ywrda. I'he water ruahet ihroiifh hke a torrent At 
 the diaUnca of one hundred rode aouth of thia ia the Gap, where 
 the road paaaea ; but the rock ia not ao high. South of thia 
 ■gain ia another gap, perhapa half or thrre*fourtha of a mile 
 wide. The rocka there riee mountain high. South-weet of 
 thia ia a valloy extending .« far aa the eye ean penetrate. Aa 
 the road paaaea thronirh thia gap, it beara to the right, up the 
 valley of the Sweet Water. 
 
 J'tify 14. Thia day we traTeled about twenty^two milee. 
 The nwd eometimee leavee the ereek for aeveral milee, and 
 paaaea over a barren, aandy plain i no kind of vegetation but 
 the wild aage. We thia day met a party of men fiwn Oali' 
 fornia and Oregon. A portion of thoae from California apoke 
 unfavprably of that country; and thoae from Oregon apoke 
 highly of the latter country. On thie day'a mareh we came 
 in eight of the long-looked-for anow-eappod mounlaina. They 
 were the Wind River Mountaina. On our right ie a ntM of 
 naked itMsk; on our left and to the diatanoe of ten or twelv* 
 milee ii a high nnge of mountaina, moetly covered with timber i 
 whilat in the valley there ia no timber, and much of the plain 
 entirely deetitute of vegetation. We enewnped near (he Nat' 
 
 Jtjjf 16. We traveled about eleven mdee *o-4vr. There 
 are two traila, which diverge below the Narrowa. The neareet 
 and beet ie that to the ri^t up the ereek, croeeing it eeverd 
 timea ; they unite again near where we encamped. The road 
 waa good, but aa uanal very duaty. Onr huntera wounded s 
 buffalo, and drove him into camp. About twenty men ran to 
 meet him. He gave them betUe. They fired a volley that 
 brought him to hie kneea, and whilat in that poeition Mr. 
 Creiffhton (« young man from Ohio) ran aeroee ttM creek, in- 
 tending to ahoot Qie animal in die hewl. When Creighlon 
 had approached within ten or twelve feet, the earaeed anind 
 ■prung to hie feet and made at him. Creighton wheeled and 
 ••eplit'^ for the camp; the bnfiUo paraning to near the bank 
 of the creek, where he atopped. By Uiia time othtn ^d uw 
 rived with gune, and tiie boiWo waa oompelled to Tleld. In 
 tb« •«eprae^' om of mj boiMe ivm ahot with • taU in th* 
 
! streim, hot on 
 
 unUiin ta a mtuii 
 
 v9 on oecMJonal 
 
 rhere the cresk 
 
 it UirM or four 
 
 e a torrent At 
 
 I the Gap, where 
 
 South of thia 
 
 lurtha of a mile 
 
 South-weat of 
 
 I penetrate. Aa 
 
 he right, up the 
 
 'ent]r«two milee. 
 veral milee, and 
 t( vegetation bat 
 men ftem Oali* 
 California apoke 
 I Oregon apoke 
 mareh we came 
 Duntaina. They 
 ght ie a naaa or 
 )f ten or twelve 
 tred with timber ( 
 inch of the plain 
 ed near the Nar* 
 
 I tiKlijT. There 
 1*8. Theneareet 
 roeeing it aeveral 
 iped. The road 
 ntera wounded » 
 'enty men ran to 
 red a volley that 
 tiat poeition Mr. 
 oee tte ereek, in* 
 When Creighton 
 s enraged animal 
 iton wheeled and 
 10 near the bank 
 ne othera had ar* 
 led to Yield. In 
 Pith • toU in tlM 
 
 THE nocKT MovNTAiria n 
 
 knee i no bon«e were broken, and he waa able to travel, but 
 lie waa a long lime very lame. 
 
 JtJtj 16. Thia day ve traveled about tw«nly-elx milee. 
 Four milee brought ue to a marahy bottom, where wu very 
 good graea. In the centre of thia quagmire and near where 
 the road eroeaee the bottom ie a ipring of good water. Eight 
 milea brought ua to a email atream j but little tn»: Bi% milea 
 brought ue to Sweet Water; croaaed and left it and atrudi it 
 again in aix or eight milee. The graae here ia good. Wild 
 mgtt waa our only fuel. Thia night there waa a heavy froet 
 
 July 17. Our cattle being mueh fatigued, we drove but live 
 mOea. The roed ia ap the creek bottom, which ia moetly 
 covered with graae. A heavy froet: iee formed in buckela 
 one^oarth of an inoh thick. We here found the celebralwl 
 mountaineer Walker, who waa traveUng to Brldm'a fort. 
 
 July 18. We traveled about twenty-two milee thia der. 
 The road aa«ende the bluff and winde among rockv hilla for 
 eix milee, peeeing over ledgee that are entirely naked for rode. 
 The appearance of the country ia extremely barren. We 
 
 red aeveral rivnleU where amaU partiearaay 4^Uin grasin^ 
 their atock. The day haa been quite cold. The Wind 
 River Monntaina are on our right, about twenty milea diatant. 
 They preacnted a moat grand appearanee. Huge maaaea of 
 ioe and mow piled op peak upon peak, with Urge bodiee of 
 ti Jiber covering portion* of the mountune. We viewed the 
 Boothem tOTmination of thia range { but they extend to the 
 north further ihan the eye can penetrate. The country be- 
 tween ue and the mountaina ia rolling, and much of it appar- 
 ently barren. Hard froet . u u 
 Juh 19. Thia morning we aaeended the bank on the aouth 
 aide of Sweet Water. Six milea brought ua again to the creek, 
 where ie good graae in the bottom and willow for fuel. We 
 oroaeed, went up the bottom two milee, and croeeed back and 
 left the Sweet Water. 7Vti$ day we patted ever the divMn^ 
 ridge wMtk $e/mralet the watere /huing into the JItUmtw 
 from thoee itkiehJM their way into the Pae\fit Ocean. 
 
 We RAD BEACHED TEE BOEEIT 0» THE RoOKY MoUETAIHa. 
 
 Six milee biought ne to a apring, the watera of which ran into 
 Oreea river, or the great Colorado of the weet— Here, then, 
 we hailed Oeeooe. Here we found n bottom covered with 
 good graae, when we halted until foar o'clock, P. M., when 
 we agaia hitehed ep and took the plun for Litde Sandy. Ten 
 bMwght iw to • dry bnadi. wheM by iigpng to th* 
 
^ JOUWAIi or TllA¥«Li OVW 
 
 ikpth of on* f<JOl we proeurwl waUwj bul it wm bfwjimh, m4 
 had a »ery unplewanl Uile. A whiU Mdimont. iuch m w« 
 had noticed al-ewhere on ihe ron«t, oo»*r«l Oio •urf»c« of Uio 
 (round. Ten milee more brooght ue to Little Bendy, whwh 
 we re«:hed »t one oV4ock in ihe niKh^ hevin^ »«"W »*»%' 
 one roilee. The tmd wm o»er e berren pUin of lif hi ejind, 
 and wee wry dueiy. From Uio eprinc lo LnOe Sendy U»tr* 
 ie no »efei»aon but the wild eage, and it had a withered ap- 
 neerancA. The night waa eoW. freesing quite hard. I^til* 
 Baady haa iia aouree in the Wind ri»ef monntaino. Along 
 thia etream ia a narrow bottom, cowred with gfaee and wUlowe. 
 We are now out of the range of the buffalo, and aiau>ugh not 
 oAen mentioned, we have eeen thouaanda of theeo huge ani* 
 ii.aU. There ha»e been eo many comf aniee of emigranU « 
 advent e of ue, that they have firi|hlened the boffalc from the 
 road. We daily eee hundreds of antelope. , .^ 
 
 July 20. Thie day we traveled ahoot thirteen "»»»♦•• 
 Bit Sandy. The road wae over a level eandy plain, covered 
 with wild eage. At LilUe Sandy Ihe road f<«ka— one taking 
 to the right and auiking Big Sandy In alx mile*, and thence 
 forty miTee to Green river, striking the latter some ihirty or 
 forty milee above the lower ford, and ihenoe lo Big Bear river, 
 atriking it about fifteen mllee below the old road. By taking 
 this trail two and a half days* travel may be aaved ; but in the 
 forty milea between Big Sandy and Oreen river ihere is no 
 walOT. and but litUe grass. CJampe may be had wilhm rea- 
 sonable distances between Green and Bear rivers. 1 \n lell 
 hand trail, which we took, twelve milee from LilUe Sandy 
 suikee the Big Sandy, follows down it and strikes Oreen river 
 above Ihe mouth of Big Sandy. ... oi. 
 
 July a I We traveled about fourteen roilee to-day. »l« 
 miles brouf hi us lo Oreen river, or Colorado. This is a beau- 
 Uful clear ktream, about r,n« hundred yai^a wide, with a rapid 
 current over a gravelly bottom. It flowa through a barren, 
 sandy country ; occasionally Ihe bottome spread to a mile in 
 widtli, covered with graaa. There is moeUy a beU of timber 
 along the banke of Ihe slreara.— EmigranU had bef" »«« *• 
 habU of croeaing the river on rafts. We succeeded in finding 
 a place where, by hoisUng up the wagon-beds si» inches, wo 
 oould ford the river widiout damaging our goods. 1 "'V^f* 
 done by eutting polee and placing them under the wawn-beds. 
 md in bne hour w^ were all safely over. We proceeded down 
 th* riter eicbt wile^. wdMWWopfd io • pow imr i*^-^ 
 
■ bnM'kMh, md 
 Hi. iurh u w« 
 «urfM« of the 
 
 8»ndy, which 
 tnveM thirty 
 
 of light mik1« 
 1« Sandy tbtr* 
 • witb«r«d •»* 
 e banl. LitU* 
 mtaino. Along 
 M« ami willowi. 
 nd altltough no* 
 iheM bugs uii> 
 »f smigranU in 
 NilTalo rrom thn 
 
 irtMB milM. to 
 y plain, eovorad 
 rkt— ono taking 
 ilea, and thanoa 
 aoina thirty or 
 Big Bear rivar, 
 )ad. By uking 
 iivad ) but in tha 
 iver thara ia no 
 had within raa- 
 ivrra. Tlia Un 
 m Liltla Sandy 
 ikea Oraen rivar 
 
 laa to-day. Six 
 Thia ia a beau* 
 ida, with a rapid 
 irough a barren, 
 »d to a niila in 
 a belt of timber 
 had bean in iho 
 Meded in finding 
 !■ nx inehaa, wo 
 node. Thia waa 
 ' tha wagon-beda, 
 I proeeaded dowa 
 
 
 TMB BOCKY MOVNTAIIta M 
 
 jNibina built by a party of tradrr*. Thw la an abundance of 
 fi«h in thia •Iream, and wa had great eport in ftahin*. 
 
 July %». Thia da/ we travalad about flflean milee. The 
 rood lea»ea Green river near our camp, and paaeea over a high, 
 barren counUy. to Blaek'e fork ; ihia we followed op eonie 
 four milaa and encamped. Aa upon other alraama, there la 
 oceuioiially a graaay bottom with a Uttlo cotton wood and 
 willow bniah. Snowy moontaina to be leon in the eouth. 
 
 July «4. We traveled, to^ay, about fuvrteen milea, over 
 a barren euontry, eroaaing the creek eeveral Umaa. We 
 noticed a nnmber of pil« of atone and earth, at-mo forty ir 
 tity feet high, ecattared in different directiona. ||iv:r.„ the 
 appearance of tha general aurfaeo having been worn away to 
 that extent by the ravagea of time and the elementa. 
 
 July U. Thia day we traveled about aixtaen milea, eroeaed 
 the creek aeveral Umea, and eneamned near Fort Bridger 
 Thia ia a trading fort owned by Brid|er and Baaeoa. It ia 
 built of polee and daubed with mudt it ia n ahabby eoneern. 
 Here are about twenty-five lodgea of Indiana, or rather whit* 
 trappcra' iodgaa oecupie«l by their Indian wivoa. They have 
 a good anpply of robeo, dreaaed deer, elk and antelope akina, 
 eoau, pante, moecaiina, and other Indian flxena, whleh they 
 trwle low for fiour, pork, powder, lead, Wanketa, bulehar- 
 knivee, epirita, hata, ready made olothee, eolbe, augar, «o. 
 They aak for a horee from twenty-five to fifty dollara. in trade. 
 Their wivea are moeUy of the Pyeniee and Snake Indiana 
 They hive a herd of catUe, twenty five or thirty goata and 
 aome aheep. They generally abandon thia fort during the 
 winter nentha. At thia place the bottoma are wide. am. 
 Mvered with good graaa. Cotton wood timber in plenty. 
 The atream ahounda with trout. 
 July SO. Remained at the fort tho whole of thie day. 
 JuN 17. We traveled about eight milea, lo^y, to LitUa 
 Muddy. The grating and water bad. Several bad hilla. 
 
 July 20. TtHlay we traveled about aixteen milee. Fen 
 mUea brought ua to the Big Muddy. Country barren. Our 
 oourea ie op the Big Muddy, and nearly north. Encamped 
 on tho ereek. Very poor graxing. Thia ia a iimaatono 
 
 July aw. Thia day we traveled about auteen milea. Our 
 eourae ia atill up tho Muddy. Emigranta would do well to 
 posh on up to aenr tho head of Ihia erad^ aa the graaa ii good 
 
 
 \ 
 
M JOUBNAL or T11ATW4I Orm 
 
 ■ml lh«r# M* •naelknl •pringi of wtltt. Th« Pounlry U vrj 
 rnuirli. W« Mw • f«w bnavar ilam«. 
 
 Juty 10. W« IravtiMi •bout iwwniy-flvt mllM »hli d«jf 
 Tw«l*« mil** bftiujjhl u« lo ihn divuliinf riiJfn Utwwn Ui« w». 
 ten of Ofiwn •nil lUKir H»«r«. Tl-n ruins it high, bul tha ••• 
 Mnl l« i»ol ailR«'ull. From thw n«lK« lb« •«»nery i« nioal Ufi- 
 llfhiful. In on« »ww U Ui* mMndari of MuOily crwk. Two 
 compuniM with Urya htfiU of oaltU ar* wlndinic Ihair way up 
 the »ill«y. Th« bolil mountain* on aithtr iiilo ar« »«ry hi|h 
 •nd ruggid. In front •«! -l »h# dituiaea of lw«l»« milM ia tha 
 valley of Bif Baar ri»ar- A r«»ina at o«r frat ewu tha apur 
 of tlia moontai*. ami amptiaa ita watara into B«ar riftr, Tha 
 vallar of Bmt Hw la foar or «»a milaa wida. wiih willowa 
 along iu banka. At a dlatanca bayond tha Baar ri»ar la a rang* 
 of high mouniaina. atralrhiag aa far u tha aya ean raMh, thair 
 anowy topa ||Uaiania( In tha raya oT tha aan. Tha mountaina 
 near iho trail ara rough and hava a aingular appaaranea j tha 
 aarth baing of rarioua colora— Ulaek, whiJa, rad, yallow, and 
 btarnaduta ahadaa. Occaaionally thera ia a g ro» ) of quoting 
 aapw). and a law aour-barry buahaa and aoma cadar. Our 
 camp to-night waa on Baar ri»ar ; tha bottom ia aandy, and 
 moally aovarod with wild aaga. 
 
 July 91. Thia day wa travalad down Baar rivar flftaan 
 milaa. Tha boMom ia from two to four milaa wida. and moaUy 
 eoTorwl with good graaa. Tha road exwdlant. We enoampad 
 two ndM above Soaith'a fork. Tha upper nwd from Oram 
 rivar oomaa in two mUaa back. 
 
 Jiugwit I. Wa traveled fiAean milea thia day. rwoniilee 
 brought ua lo Smilh'a fork. ThU ia a bold, clear, and beauti- 
 ful atream, coming in from the eaat. It ia about fifteen yarda 
 wide, lined with timber and undergrowth. In U»ia •»««m « 
 an abundance of mountain trout, aome of them verv largj. The 
 road leada down tlie bottom of Bear river three mUea to Spring 
 branch, one mile to the Narrowa and three milea to the Brat 
 croasiiig of Bear river. Hero are two traila. The nearaat 
 luma to the right up a creek for a mile and a half, eroaaea the 
 creek and pasaea over the hill, and atrikee the other trail at the 
 foot of Big Hdl, aix milea from the croaainga. The other 
 trail eroaaea the river, followa up Ita bottom rotind the bend 
 for eight milea, to where it eroaaea the river, then followa down 
 the bottom three mUea, and take* op » »illny for one mile U> 
 the fool of the Big Hill, where it interaeoU the other UaiL 
 Thia ia tha moat lavel road, but tha oUier ia not • bad one. 
 
fouolry U *trjr 
 
 nllM ihif day 
 «twmn Ui« w»* 
 iigh, but the M* 
 ■ry i« mo«( d«< 
 jr crMk. Two 
 IK their wtv up 
 I are vary nifn 
 ilva milaa ia UM 
 , eula tha aiMir 
 Bar river. 'I'ha 
 a, with willowa 
 rivar ia a rani* 
 ean raaeht thair 
 Tha mountaiBa 
 ppaannea ; tha 
 rad, yallow, and 
 [ro*)of quakinf 
 DC eadar. Uur 
 B ia aaody, and 
 
 Mr rlvar iinaan 
 
 rida, and moatly 
 
 Wa encampad 
 
 wd from Oraen 
 
 lay. Two milaa 
 lear, and b«ftuti< 
 out fifiaan yarda 
 n ihia atream ia 
 verylarj^j. Tha 
 I milaa lo Spriug 
 lilaa 10 tha firat 
 t. Tha naareat 
 hair, eroaaaa the 
 other trail at tha 
 iga. The other 
 
 rotind the bend 
 ten followa down 
 
 for one mile to 
 I Uie other trail 
 I not a bad one. 
 
 THM POCKY HOVNTilNft ff 
 
 The hilla bordaring on B«t«r rivar on thia day'* travtl are very 
 hifh »i\d ruBgiU ; lley »r« covered v»ilh jjruaa. The boitoma 
 Bra from one u. lour iniUta wida. Wa taw ihia day Urge harda 
 of .nirlofia. We encamped in the bend of the rtvar, near Uie 
 aecoiid oruaainga. ... , . •> 
 
 Jiugmt %. Thia dny wa traveled about nineteen mllea. 
 Four or ftva mlUa brought ua to the big hill or mounUiin. It 
 la about hall a iiiila Ui the lop of the firat ridga.and (|uiUi •Usep. 
 The roail then turna a few roda to ibe right. ili«n to the left 
 down a ravine for three hundred yarde, and then up a ravine 
 fur half a mile lo tlia lop of iha mounUin. Wa traveled about 
 two niilca along the ridge, and dien turned to ihe left down the 
 mounUin. It la about one milt to the plain, and generally 
 very aUep and atony t but all reached the plain aafely, and 
 were Uuly thankful diat they had aafoly paaaed one of the 
 meat difficult mounUlna on the road. From th** lop of thia 
 mountain we had a moat delightful view of the aurrounding 
 country. Thia ia one oi" the rangea which border thia atream. 
 At thia place they cloae in upon both aidea ao aa not to admit 
 of a paaaage wilh teama along the river. A road could eaaily 
 be cut around the point, and aave the fatigue of climbing thia 
 mounUin ; the diaUnee would not be roateri«Hy increaaed. 
 The valley of Bear river beara off to the nortli-weat, and can 
 be aeen a great diatance. From the aouth cornea in a broad 
 valley, up which can be aeen Dear Lake. A high range of 
 mountaina aeparalea it from the river. The outlet of thia lake 
 la two or Ihree milea below the narniwa made by ihia moun- 
 Uin. A high range of anow covered mounUina can be aeen 
 to the aouth-weal. TIk ro«l atrikea the river two milca from 
 the foot of the mountain, at Big Timber. Here ia a good 
 camp. Eight milea brought na lo a apring branch. The bot- 
 tom here ia wide ; a low marah prevenU driving lo the river. 
 The graaa ia good. There ia a liitle timber on ihe mountaina. 
 At Big Timber ia a company of trappera and tradera atUched 
 to Bridge'a parly. 
 
 Augutl 8. We travele.1 about fourteen milea, croaainjj a 
 number of apring branohea, coming in from the mounlaina. 
 Theae branchea abound in trout. The ground, for a atrip of 
 about four milea, waa covered wilh black crickeU of a large 
 aiie. I aaw aome that were about ihreo inclica in length, and 
 maaauring about three-fourtha of an inch in diameter ; but the 
 common aite were two inchea in length and one-half or five- 
 •Ightha of an inch in diameter i their lega were large in pro- 
 
 -. 
 
 warn 
 
|tt JOURNAL OP TRAVIUJ! tlvr.U 
 
 portion to the siie of their botlien. Some were tinging on 
 •talks of wild sage ; others mwling in every direction. Our 
 teams made great ha»oc among them; so numerous were they 
 that we crushed them at e»cry step. As soon ss one was 
 killed, others of them would alight «pon it and devour it. The 
 bottoms are wide, and covered with grafs, and the soil looks 
 well. A few patches of snow were seen upon the mountum 
 •omo ten miles distant. A portion of the mounttin is covered 
 with fine timber. The bottoms are rolling. 
 
 Jlvgmt 4. We reached the Soda springs, having traveled 
 about eight miles. The fir«t view we had was of two or three 
 white haiockB or mounds, standing up at different points to 
 the right of the road, and near a irove of cedar ond pine timber. 
 One of them '\u about ten rods long at the base, and three or 
 fo«:r rods in width; its elevation is probably twenty-five or 
 thirty feet from the plain in which it is situated. The sua 
 of these mounds continually increases, as the water oo«es out 
 at different points, and produces a cnist which becomes quit« 
 hard. The rocks, for miles around, are of the soda formaUon. 
 Upon those mounds the water is warm. In a small bottom, 
 immediately before reaching the fir«t of these mounds, and 
 about two hundred yards above the road. Is a hole about eight 
 feet In diameter ; In diis Is a pool of water, strongly impreg. 
 nated with soda. I had no means of ascertainlm the depth, 
 but believe it to be considerable ; at one edge of it the water 
 was boiling and sparkling; it would sometimes sweU four 
 inches above the surface. This pool, and others conUguous, 
 affords excellent drinking water; it was cool, and, when 
 sweetened, would compare favourably with any soda waUr. 
 Just below the mound, and near the grove, is a rapid stream 
 of water, coursing over a rocky bottom, formed by aoda. At 
 the crossing of ihis creek, and below the road, is a morass; 
 and immediately on the bank of the rivulet, is a crevice m the 
 rock, from which a small stream of water issues ; this was the 
 best to drink of any I found. After crossing the cr««k, the 
 distance to the springs generally resorted to Is about three- 
 fourths of a mUe} they boll up in e-ery direction. Sevoral 
 mounds have been formed, of ten feet In height. The water 
 has found some other passage, and left them to moulder awav. 
 The centre or middle of these are concave. The surface of the 
 earth here is some twelve or fifteen feet above the level of Uie 
 river, the bank of which is of rock, of the soda formaUon. A 
 grove of cedar »ad pine timber extends from the river back to 
 
irer« singing on 
 direction. Our 
 leroni were tliejr 
 Don ■« one wat 
 devour it. The 
 cl the loil loolii 
 on the mounUin 
 intain a coTered 
 
 , hiving traveled 
 1 of two or three 
 ifferent points to 
 and pine timber. 
 ise« and three or 
 y twenty-five or 
 Bted. The siie 
 I water coxes ont 
 *h becomes quite 
 i soda formation. 
 
 a small bottom, 
 Bse mounds, and 
 t hole about eight 
 stronglv impreg* 
 lining the depth, 
 ;e of It the water 
 times swell four 
 then contiguous, 
 cool, and, when 
 
 any aoda wati-r. 
 is a rapid stream 
 ited by aoda. At 
 tad, is a morass ; 
 is a crevice in the 
 ues ; this waa the 
 ng the creek, the 
 is about three- 
 irection. Bevoral 
 ighu The water 
 to moulder awav. 
 The surface of the 
 ve the level of tlie 
 >da formation. A 
 
 the river back to 
 
 TUB ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 80 
 
 the mountain, a distance of two and a half or tlirce miles ; the 
 space between the road and the river is covered with ^rass ; 
 but between it and the mountain it is barren of vegetation of 
 any kind. The soda has left a sediment, which is now crum- 
 bled and loone, with an occasional mound of ten or twelve feet 
 elevation, but no water running. The river here is about one 
 hundred yards in width, and about eighteen inches in depth, 
 running very rapidly. The soda water is bubbling up in every 
 direction, and sometimes risps nix inches above the surface of 
 the river. This bubbling extends for near half a mile. A 
 stream comep in from the north at the western edge of the 
 springu. tumbles over the rocks, and finally into the river. 
 Near where one branch of this falls over the rock (it has 
 several passages where the road crosses it) is a circular basin 
 in the rock, being two feet in diameter at the top, but larger 
 below. It was covered with grass ; and, in walking along, I 
 barely avoided stepping into it ; whilst at its edge the purling 
 or gurgling of the water, as it boils up, apprixed me of its 
 vicinity. The surface of the water is about three feet below 
 the top of the rock. The water is cool, much more so than 
 the water of the sprinn, and is remarkably clear. 
 
 Three hundred yards below the crossing of this branch, and 
 Immediately on the bank of the river, is the Steamboat Spring. 
 The water has formed a small cone of about two and a half 
 feet in height, and three feet in diameter, at the base. A hole 
 of six inches in diameter at the top, allows the water to dis- 
 charge itself. It swells out ut intervals of eight or ten seconds, 
 and sometimes flows four or five j'eat in disjointed fragments. 
 It is lukewarm, and has a milky appearance ; but when taken 
 in a vessel becomes as transparent an crystal. It produces a 
 sound similar to the puffing of a steamboat, but not quite so 
 deep. It can frequently be heard at the distance of a quarter 
 of a mile. About six feet from this is a suiall fissure in the 
 rock, which is called the escape-pipe or gas-pipe. It makes 
 a hissing noiiie, corresponding with the belching of the spring. 
 The gas emitted from this Assure is so strong that it would 
 snflbcate a person, holding his head near the ground. To 
 the rear of this, aoross the road, are mounds fifty or aixty teet 
 in height ; these were entirely dry. Up this creek is very 
 good grazing for eatdc, but there are found some marshy places 
 contiguous. The bottom tipon the opposite side of the river 
 is four or five miles in width, and covered with a good coat 
 of grass. The eoU lodugoud ; and if the seMoas are not loo 
 
 SMM 
 
M 
 
 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS OVER 
 
 •horl, would produce well. The mountain upon the «outn 
 tide in oo»ered with heary pine timber; on tiie north side but 
 little Umber was observed ; what Hide wns noticed consisted 
 principally of scrubby cedars. Antelope found m abundance. 
 The water, in many of the springs, is sufficienUy strong to 
 laise bread, equally as well as saleratus or yeast. Were it 
 not for their remote situaUon. these springs would be mucri 
 resorted to, especially during the summer months. I he coui.- 
 iry is mountainous, and its aliitude so great, that the air is 
 always cool, and consequently must be heahhy. 
 
 Companies -rishing to remain for a length of Ume at the 
 springs, would pursue a proper course in driving their catUe 
 over the river, as good grazing can thereby be had. 
 
 Augu$t 6. We traveled about nineteen miles. Five milea 
 brought UH to where the road leaves the river, and bears north- 
 ward through a valley. The river bears to the southward and 
 empties iliTwaters into Big Salt Lake. The range of moun- 
 Uins bounding the north side of the river here comes to withm 
 a half mUe of it, then bears off to the north, leaving a valley of 
 about seven or eight miles in width between it and a range 
 coming from Lewis river, and extending south towards Salt 
 Lake. The range bounding the south side of the river comes 
 abrupay to the sUeam at this point, presenting huge and cum- 
 brous masses of basaltic rock, but it is generally covered with 
 heavy Umber. At this point two IraUs are found : one striking 
 west, across the vaUey, to the opposite side ; Uie oUier, which 
 U Uie nearest and best, follows around Uie point, hugging the 
 base of the mountain for several miles. ..''•'<»»"''«"• ''S^ 
 mUes distant, and immediately beneath a cliff of rocks by the 
 the road side, is to be found a soda pool. A litde snnng of 
 cool aoda water runs out at Uie base of the rock, w" « o«»«> 
 of eiiiht or ten yards in extent, and about two and one halt feet 
 hiirh has been formed. Inside of this, is a pool of water ;— 
 Uii material composing Uio bank around, is of a white color. 
 In a few miles travel, we crossed several spring branches. 
 We Uien directed our course Uirough the pUm for some eight 
 or nine mdes, to where we encamped. Our camp was located 
 near a spring branch ; but a small quantity of wood was found, 
 srazinc wasewsellent. From where Uie road leaves Uie river, 
 the counuy presents every appearance of having been volcanic 
 at some period. Craters are yet standing in the p am, exht- 
 biUng posiUve evidence of this fact. A large mound has been 
 fonwd by Uie lava ejected from Uiis crater, la Uie centre la 
 
upon the soutn 
 le north side but 
 loticed consittetl 
 11(1 in abundance, 
 cientiy itrong to 
 yeast. Were it 
 would be muirh 
 itht. The coui.- 
 t, that the air is 
 
 I or time at the 
 riving their cattle 
 e had. 
 
 liles. Five mile* 
 , and bean north- 
 iie fouthward and 
 B range of moun- 
 e cornea to within 
 eaving a valley of 
 n it and a range 
 tuth towards Salt 
 (f the river comes 
 ng huge and cum- 
 Blly covered with 
 tund: one striking 
 ; the otherj which 
 >oint, hugging the 
 rwo and one half 
 ff of rocks by the 
 
 A little spring of 
 ) rock, and a baain 
 a and one half feet 
 
 pool of water;— 
 I of a white color. 
 i spring branches, 
 lain for some eight 
 r camp was located 
 )f wood was found; 
 «d leaves tlie river, 
 aving been voloanic 
 
 in the plain, exht- 
 ge mound has been 
 r. la the oenUre ii 
 
 THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN& 
 
 41 
 
 a deep cavity ; now partially filled, from the falling in of the 
 masses of bank surrounding it. In every direction the eye 
 rests upon fragments of rock, which have been thrown out in 
 a hot and burniug condition, many of them melted and united i 
 pieces resembling broken junk bottles or black glass lay scat* 
 tared over the pUin. The valley for ten or twelve miles ia 
 eoverad with stone of this description. In many places Uie 
 rocks have been liHed or bulced up to an elevation of ten or 
 fifiaen feet,, the top has been burst asunder, presenting a cavity 
 of eight or ten feet in width, caused by the fragments having 
 been cast out ; the depth of the cavity is from twenty to thirty 
 feet, the aides have a black appearance, and exhibit indications 
 of having been burned ; at other places the rock had been lifted 
 up, and elevated above the surface of the earth some five or 
 six feet, and about the same in width, having numerous small 
 apertures in ii, the centre being concave. The stone forms a 
 complete arch. At other places the rock has been rent, and a 
 chasm of thirty or forty feet io dapth and from two to ten feet 
 in width, has been the result. These chasms are abont one 
 quarter of a mile in length. The fragments lay in every di- 
 rection. 
 
 The country over this plain is rather barren ; bat at certain 
 seasons of the year, is covered with grass, which during tha 
 summer months dies, leaving but little appeanatf e of vegeution. 
 After we had halted for the night, three families who had sepa- 
 rated from our company at the Soda Springs, passed as. A 
 few hours had elapsed, and we espied one of their number re- 
 turning post haste to our camp. When he arrived, he was so 
 paralysed with fear, that it was with difficulty we obtained 
 from him the cause of his alarm. It appeared evident, from 
 bia statement, that a party of Snake Induma meditated an aU 
 taok upon thejr party. We dispatched a company to their 
 relief, but sooa bad the gratification to witness the return of 
 tiieir wagons to our camp. It appears that one of tbeir num- 
 ber had marehfid about two milea in advance of the wagons, 
 when he was disoovared by a party of Snake Indiana, lurking 
 in the vicinity, who immediately gave him chase, at every step 
 uttetiitf tha most terrifie yells, mid endeavoured to anrroand 
 him } but aa ha was satridle a fleet American coarser, be sue* 
 ceiled in outstripping them, and arrived at tha wagona in tima 
 to prepare for thetr auproach. The wagona war* then in a 
 daap ranoa, and eould sat b* aeao, by tha Indiana in jwiaait, 
 until within aavonty-five yards. At toon aa tha Indiana dia* 
 4 
 
 HMW 
 
*g JOtJRWAL OF TRAVELS OVER 
 
 covered their proximity to the wngoni they commenced a pre 
 
 eipitata retreat, and the •'"»?'""'» «i»'i;«*'.*»"'P' mil*. The 
 Auguut 6. We traveled ihia day about fifteen mdea. I he 
 
 „,ad r.even mile. i. «P the valley , it tj*-**^" 7 ^ ** 
 mountoin. to the water, nmv.mg into Snake or Le w » n^J 
 The hiah ranjre of mountama which bear* off »«*"«• ^' 
 iSf terminate, near the road on the left. The road follow, 
 r™ inl^d wind, about among the hill., and thickeu of 
 ;o"kinV..pen, until it mche. a ■Pfi'*.^""^''',''?*';''''^?," 
 foC to near Fort Hall. Over the ndge. and ^r two ».!?. 
 down the branch, there i. but little gra.. found. At the ouh 
 ir. oHhree mile., on our left up .he mountain were i«v.rd 
 patche. of .now. A few of our party brought «)me of the 
 
 'TulTr 'Thi. day we made about eighteen mile.. For 
 ten S the road i. Jry good. Alo„« 'he .tream » ound 
 willow bmah, answering for fuel. The laat "«'•"""•"•■ 
 rverawndvilain; it wa. dry, and very heavy traveling. Our 
 cIlwM at I large .pring of cold .vater ; grazing wa. very 
 
 ^AuKU,t 8. We traveled but five mile., which brought u. 
 «« Pnrt H Jl Thi. i. a trading poat in the posseaaion of the 
 
 tbTmoantaiS, it i. bnfit of mud or adobe.. (Thi. Uroi 
 Mplirto ""burnt brck.) They are of a .imilar co.«-J««»»^- 
 XCh comer U a bastk/n. projecUng »«» "T ^^ ?f » ^,7, 
 fiwt. nerforated with hole, for fire-aim.. Captain Orwi w 
 Si ffe officer in command ; h. h«i. fe bearing oj J lenUj. 
 ™-n The nniwn wa. mppUed with flour, which had been 
 ?,S; JtStfTitTlemenS; in Ore^n, and brought her. on 
 5S hSaS They wld it to the •.^«r«.t. for twe»»y doMm 
 S^ «wL tokin* cattle in exchange ; and a. many of the emi- 
 JLntTwero iSriTout of flour, and h«l a few lame cattle, a 
 Ck tSTwM cTrriS on between them and the inhabitwif 
 Sfthe forJ JnSe exchange of catUe for flour, an dlowanc. 
 wi mSJof 5«rfive to ISelve dollar, per head Th^rdjo 
 ha? horae. which they readily exchanged ?«>'««'* «1!^„*2 
 «,.h T'ho Brioe demanded ftw home. w*. from fifteen to 
 
 SSitrXe £52.. They «>«W »«» ^ P"'^'^* "^ "^ 
 
 "ttS2 Si^SJ'wide, and covered with «-..TW. 
 i. tt^toSTe of wood for fuel, fencing. And o&er purpo^-. 
 
ommtneed a pre 
 
 ir parly. 
 
 Oeen milea. The 
 sn iaktm over the 
 I or Lewii river, 
 off towards Sdt 
 The road follows 
 , and thickeU of 
 ch, down which it 
 and for two nilea 
 und. At the dii- 
 itain, were aeveral 
 lught some of the 
 
 rhteen milee. For 
 e ttream is found 
 ist seven miles is 
 ivy traveling. Our 
 grazing was very 
 
 which brought us 
 i possession of the 
 on the east side of 
 »bes. (This term 
 imilar construction, 
 itome eight or ten 
 
 Captain Grant is 
 earing of a gentle- 
 uf, which had been 
 tnd brought here on 
 ts for twenty doHars 
 ■ many of the emi- 
 i few lame catde, a 
 and the inhabitanta 
 
 flour, an allowance 
 trhead. They also 
 for cattle or sold for 
 was from fifteen to 
 
 prevailed vfoa to 
 |oods or provisionsi, 
 
 IwithtrMt. TlMl^ 
 And ouer puipoeea. 
 
 THE ROCItY MOUNTAINi. 4$ 
 
 No ntlempt has, as yet, bei-n made to cultivate the soil. I 
 think the drought too great ; but if irrigation were resorted to, 
 I doubt not it would produce some kinds of grain, tuoh as 
 wheat, corn, potatoes, Ac ,. * u 
 
 Our camp was I cated one mile to the south-west of the 
 fort ; and as at si .le other forts, the Indians swarmed about 
 us. f They ara of the Snake tribe, and Inhabit the country 
 bordering oi. Lewie and Bear rivers, and their various tribu- 
 taries. This tribe is said to be numerous ; but In consequence 
 of the continual wars which they hive engaged in with the 
 Sioux, Crows and Blackfeet, their numbers are rapidly dimin- 
 ishing. ' ' .....,,. i. » I 
 
 Snake river, which flows within one half mile of the fort, U 
 a clear and beautiful stream of water. It courses over a nebbly 
 bottom. Its width is about one hundred and fifty yards. It 
 abounds in fish of diflerenl varieties, which are readily taken 
 with the hook. , 
 
 While we remained in this place, great efforts were made 
 to induce the emigrants to pursue the route to California. The 
 most extravagant tales were related respecting the daurars that 
 awaited • trip to Oregon, and of the difficulUee and trials to be 
 surmounted. The perils of the way were so nagnlHed as to 
 make us suppose the jovmey to Oregon almost impossible. 
 Foi instance, the two oroeslngt of Snakt river, and the oroesin| 
 of the Jolumbia, and other smaller atreams, were represented 
 as being attended with great danger; also that no «»«n^V 
 heretofore attempting the piMage of these streams, succeeded, 
 but with the loss of men, ftom the violence and rapidity of the 
 current; as also that they had never succeeded in getUng more 
 than fifteen or twenty head of cattle into the Wlllemette valley. 
 In addition to the above, it was asseited that three or four 
 tribes of Indians, in the middle region, had combined for the 
 purpose of preventing oar passage through their country, and 
 should we attempt it, we wouldT>e eomp«>iled to contend with 
 these hostile tribes. In case we eecaped destrucUon at the 
 hands of the savages, that a more fearftil enemy, that of famine, 
 would attend our march; u tho distance was so great that 
 winter wooid overtake us befoPi inak'.ng the passage of ibe 
 
 Cascade Mountains. .««,.<• 
 
 On the odier hand, as an indttoemenl to pursue the Oalifonw 
 route, we were informed of the ihcrtneee of the route, when 
 compared with that to Oregon ; m also of mtoy *t»ier luperior 
 advant^;es it possessed. 
 
 mfm 
 
 tarn 
 
*| JOWanAL OF TRAVBI* ovkh 
 
 Thew tolet, told and rehecwed, were likely to produe« tht 
 fff,!cl of turning the lide of emigration lliiUier. Mr. Green- 
 wood, an old mountaineer, well etocked with falaeliooda, had 
 been diipatched from California to pilot the •mW""'" through j 
 wd acsiated by a young man by the name of MeDougal, from 
 Indiana, ao far eucceetled aa to induo4» thirty.ftvo or ihirty-au 
 
 wacona to hike that trail. , r n m 
 
 About aAMn wagone had been fitted out, expreialy for Cali^ 
 fomia; and, joined by the lhirty-fi»e aforementioned, <Kp». 
 pleted a train of fifty wagona ; what the reault of lUeir expe- 
 dition haa been, I haw not been able to learn. 
 
 ^ugvit 0. Thia day we trareled about eight mUea , nre 
 inilea brought ua to the croaalng of Portneth. Thiaia a atream 
 heading ia the mounlaina near the Soda Springa. receiving 
 numeroua branche* in thia bottom, and ia here about eighty 
 yarda in width. From thia place, it U one mile to «>« "»••: 
 fngof a narrow slough, wiih steep banks. We crossed, and 
 journpyed two milea to the bank of Snake river, where wo 
 Moamped. Eight wagons joined us at our encampment. 
 
 ^uguat 10. We remained in camp. 
 
 JiugUMt U. Thia day we traveled about eight niiesj 
 which brought ua to within on« mile of the American falU.1 
 Our camp wae at the springs. An island m the river afforded 
 excellent giaiing for catde. The countiy is extremely barren, 
 
 ^^aSun^it ^I "**We utveled about fifteen milea, which brought 
 na to Levy creek, or BeaverKiaiu creek, aa it la aomeUmea 
 termed; it ia a amuU atream-, iu watera flow down a aucoea- 
 •ioD of faUs, pr.Mlucing a handeome eaac«le: it hu the appear- 
 •BM of haviilg been built up by beaTcr. The property of the 
 water hae turned the malerlalinto stone; »»»• 'T'^' •P"^ 'f 
 be impretoated with soda; the rocks along the bank are ol 
 (hat fornTation. The beat camp ia two m'^^fi""'" «»• ^ 
 JluruBt 13. Thia day we traveled about e»ght milea, to 
 Casaia creek; here the Ca lifornia trail turns off. The road 
 
 lag oUl»nia aqusl. to point of sou, to lh«ir lugh wrought anikipaliau, 
 
 have mtdo the b«t of their way to Oragon. t^«w--««. A 
 
 t ThMS M\» d«lv. their name from the following dtc«"«^^»2: * 
 
 BnLb« of Amerlcn t»pp«a going *T!L*"* TZ^ '^. STS*^ 
 hZriwaN of Ihwr prMiimtey to tha fclk were bunied elong by the v^ 
 3 rfS oiZl I'wd pifag «m the Wle, but COS of the munhs. 
 
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 4S 
 
 ^ to producA tha 
 ler. Mr. Green- 
 1 falieliooda, had 
 itigrBnU through ; 
 MeDounI, from 
 ftv« or Uiirty-ux 
 
 xpr«Mly for C«li» 
 tmentioned, eq/a- 
 ult of tbflir exp«- 
 
 eight miles ; five 
 , This is K stream 
 ipring*. receiving 
 tiere about eighty 
 mile to the croes- 
 We crossed, and 
 a river, where we 
 encampment. 
 
 MUt ei^ht miles; 
 
 B American fvlU.I 
 
 a the river afibrded 
 
 extremely barren, 
 
 lies, which brought 
 la it is sometimes 
 w down « succes- 
 : ithutheappear- 
 'he property of tho 
 le water appears to 
 I the bank are of 
 as farther on. 
 sot ewht miles, to 
 rns off. The road 
 
 intoallud«lto,natfiikU 
 wrought uiikiiialkmi, 
 
 iflns dreaiMianea. A 
 tm in thair canoM, not 
 anted along bjr tha vm^ 
 bttl ona of the niunlisc 
 
 has been very dusty and heafy travplinf. The oountry pre- 
 senls the same usual barren appearance. 
 
 ^uguil 14. Thia day we (raveled about fifleen milea, and 
 reaciieil Marshy apriiig ; (he road has been atony and dusty ; 
 the country musUy deati(u(e of vegetation— nothing growing 
 but the wild sage and wormwood. 
 
 Augutt 10. We traveled but eleven mUes. The road runs 
 over a sage plain for eight miles, when it crosses (he stream 
 from tlie marsh ; no water running, and but little standing in 
 pools. At (he dis(ance of three milea the road strikes (he river 
 bottom, at the lower end of (his, at which place the road leaves 
 it; here wss found a good camp. 
 
 Augtut 16. We traveled about twen(y-(hree miles. Four 
 miles brought us (o Goose creek. We found difficuUy in cross- 
 ing, and no good loca(ion for a camp. After seven miles travel 
 we reached the river ; but li(de grass. Twelve miles brought 
 us (o Dry Branch ; here alao waa un8ui(able ground for en- 
 camping, as (he wa(«r was standing in pools. The road we 
 traveled was very dusty, and portions of it quite stony ; here 
 the river runs through a rocky kanyon. The cliffs are some- 
 times of the height of one thousand feet, and nearly perpendi- 
 cular. Above the kanyon, tlie river ia two or three hundred 
 yards wide ; but at this place it is not more than one hundred 
 and fiAy feet ; and at one pUce, where there is a fall of some 
 twenty feet, its wi h does not exceed seventy-five feet. In 
 our march thia day I aUemp(ed (o get down to the river, to 
 procure a drink of water, but for aix miles was unable to do 
 so, owing (o the steep {Nrecipi(ous banks. 
 
 Augutt 17. Wa traveled but eight miles. The road lay 
 aver a sage |dain to the bottom on Rock creek. Here we 
 found a very good camp. 
 
 JhtguU 18. Thia day wa traveled about twenty iJidas. 
 Aflar the distance of eight miles we arrived at the crossii^ of 
 Rock creek, (in a kanyon,) here we halted for dinner, and gave 
 our catUa water. We then took up the bluff, and traveled over 
 sand and sage plains for about twelve miles. When night 
 overtook us we drove to the top of the river bluff and encamp- 
 ed. Wa drove our oattle one and a half milea down the bluff 
 to the river for water. Here we found a litde grass and green 
 bruah, but it was not sufficient in quantity to supply our eattlot 
 and we eoukl do no better. We paekad water up the bluff to 
 our camp. The bluffa at this place exceed one thousand feet 
 in height ; they ara of basalt. Tba road ia on a high bama 
 
 wfm 
 
MMHH* 
 
 46 
 
 JOURNAL or TRAVEL* OVgR 
 
 plain ; a range of mountaini !• on our left hard by, and at a 
 treat dinanre on our right anoiher range uppeara. 
 
 Jiuruat 19. We traveled about iweWe milei. Nine mtlea 
 brouirht ui to where we pais down to the ri»er bottom ; from 
 thii point the diaiance to the river wai three roilei. A warm 
 •prins branch emptiea ilaell into the river at ihia place, fcmt- 
 granta would purauea more proper courae by encamping on 
 five bottom, near die eonrce of Hock crwk. then drive down to 
 wliore the road croaaea in a *an.yon, then following »b« road 
 for eight or nine miiea to where the road loavea the bluff of 
 the creek and encamp, driving their cattle into the creek Dot- 
 torn. From thia place they can drive to Salmon Fall creen, 
 iuat four milea below our preaent oncampmen^ follow down 
 this creek to it* mouth, where will be found an eicelleiit camp. 
 JluruU 20. Wo traveled about nine milea, reaching the 
 Salmon Falla. Here are eighteen or twenty Indian huU. 
 Salmon come up to theaa falla: the Indiana have an abundanc. 
 of them, which tiiey very readUy diapoae of for hooka, powder, 
 bolla. clothing, calico and knivea, and m fact for almoat any 
 thlni we have at our diapoaal. 
 
 The river at thia place ia a auceeaaion of cataracta for aeveral 
 mUea, the higheat of which doea not exceed twelve feet, 1 IM 
 mzinff waa very poor, and the country barren aa uaual. 
 
 Jiuinut 21. Wo traveled about twelve mdea; for two 
 mUea^ie ro«i i. up a aandy hiU. it then atrike. a "ndy aaw 
 plain, over which it takes ita courae for ten mdea. Here night 
 overtook ua, aa we had commenced our mareh ata very late 
 hour on account of having loat aome horaea . Our camp waa 
 on the (op of the river bluff. It ia one mile to w^r I but htt^. 
 Kvaaa waa found. Thia dny we found aeveral h«ad of ©a Ue 
 that had given out from fatigue of traveling, tfome of the 
 companiea had been racing, endeavoring to P"? •«'L^«|; 
 and MW they have reached a region where but httla graM la 
 found— we beginning to reap the reward of their folly. 
 
 Tugutt »? Our cattle were ao much aeatlered that it waa 
 
 bte in the day when we prepared to reaumo our march. We 
 
 Saveled about te» milea. At ni.ht we lefi the road, and dt- 
 
 wcted onr courae to the "l^^^own a ravine to the river, 
 
 . where we encamped. Our catde Buffered much for want of 
 
 '^gMt 28. Thia morning we turned op the ravinefor 
 on^JSThalf mile., and then atmck «n the hUl to »he ro^ 
 Three andahalf milen broti|ht «• to whei« the road croaeee 
 
 [.t,!, ipnaiiMTi' irwi TTT^' 
 
THE ROCKy MOUNTAINS. 
 
 hard by. tnd at ■ 
 xtu*. 
 
 lilei. Nine mllea 
 iver bottom ; froia 
 I milef. A wirm 
 this place. ISmU 
 by encamping on 
 hen drive down to 
 ollowing the road 
 avea the bluff of 
 nto the i-reek bot- 
 )atmon Fall creek, 
 nent, follow down 
 an exeelletil camp, 
 iiilea, reaching the 
 enty Indian nuta. 
 have an abundance 
 for hooka, powder, 
 lot for almoat any 
 
 ataracta for aeveral 
 I twelve feet The 
 rren aa uaual. 
 re milea; for two 
 irikea a aandy aace 
 milea. Here pignt 
 nareh at a very late 
 ■. Our camp waa 
 I to water; butlitUe 
 'Oral head of eattle 
 iing. dome of the 
 
 paaa each other, 
 ■e but little graM ia 
 r their folly, 
 ■catlered that it waa 
 le our march. We 
 id the road, and dl- 
 avine to the river, 
 
 1 much for want of 
 
 d up the ravine for 
 the hill to the road 
 IN the road eroaaee 
 
 the Snake river. In coming down to the river bottom, ther« 
 ia a very steep hill. Along the shore of Ihii river wus a little 
 graaa; there are two iaianila covered with grnss, lo that oui 
 cattle were aoon repaid for their privations lieri-tufure. The 
 difllcultiei attending the eroeaing of thia stream had been repre- 
 aented rs being almost insurmountable ; but upon examiiiatioi 
 we found it an exagverstion. From the n.aiu ahore to Aril 
 island there is no dimculty; from first to second island, turn 
 well up, until nearly acruaa, then bear down to where tlie road 
 entera it. 'i'he water ia not deep until nearly across, and not 
 then if you keep well up stream. From second island to main 
 aliore is more uifficult ; it ia about three hundred yards wide 
 and the current very rapid. Strike in, heading well up for 
 two rods, then quartering a little down until oi^t or (en rods 
 from shore : then quartering a little up for fit'ieen or twenty 
 roda ; then alrike up for the eoming out pluce ; the bottom ie 
 gravelly. With the exception of a iew holes, the water for 
 the firat fifteen loda ia the deepest part of the ford. The bot- 
 tom is very uneven ; there are holee found of aix or eight feel 
 in width, many of them awimmiiig. Those eroasing titia 
 atream can escape the deepeat of these holes by having horse- 
 men in the van and nt each aide ; it ia necessary that there be 
 attached to each wagon four or aix yoke of oxen, the current 
 being ewift ; and in the paaeage of theae holes, previously al- 
 hided to, when one yoke ia compelled to ewim, the othera may 
 be in ahallow water. Great care must be taken Uiat these 
 toama be iMt beat down too low and paaa over the ripple ; and 
 to prevent auoh a eaaualty, two drivera muat attond each wa- 
 
 En. Before attempting the passage of liie river all articlea 
 Ue to damage, from eomiag ia contact with the water, ahould 
 be piled on the top of the wagmi bed. We commenced croao- 
 itm at eleven o'ouick, A.M., and at one o'clock, P.M.. we 
 eoeeled the paaeage of the atream, and were so fortunate aa to 
 land our gooda free from all damage. We traveled two miiee 
 to a aprlhg branch and pitehed oor encampment. Good graaa, 
 wood and water, were procured in plenty. 
 
 Jlugu$t24. We traveled but aix milea. Soon after leaving 
 camp we direeted onr eouree up a atony hill ; thence over a 
 •age plain to a spring branch. We puraued our way up thia 
 branch for <me mile, where we obtained good grazing for our 
 eattle; a high range of hilla appearing on our right, at the 
 diatanoe of two milea, an oceaaional grove of pin* timber upon 
 than I bnt, b gcnenj, the moontaina here are eovend with 
 
 <Si "* -m 
 
f = 
 
 If 
 
 jg JOURNAL or TRAVW* <rH» 
 
 gnu ; noin«roui ttretrnt (Muing from their iidrt. tnil p«jr5»f 
 & w.u.r. in lh« pl..n b«low. Thar. i> no .ppwrwiw of 
 vogllon unul you re.ch ih. low bottom, ^"•"'-''•'••yr'^ 
 ,hJ w.ler'. «dg.. Th. ro.d tr.».led 'onl-y wm n«^ -^ 
 Th« Indiin. ilonu ihi. ra«d ar. ««p#rt inlhdl.iMl WT^' 
 A vouni m.n h.vinj • hor.a which It. h«l l»k«n mach p.iM 
 i, J^tKwhVn night .npro.r.h.d. .tekad .nd hobhM h.m. 
 
 tS; ramp, SnhobbW L hor«. e«i »>»• "^^ 'T;\Jrdr5 
 l.-aTin« he youn» m.n undieUirbed in ^^'^^-^^^^1 
 theretlter. t^i. imti.n effc-cti-.! • mI« of th. horM to oM of • 
 nwiv of Bmigrmnt* traveling behind u«, 
 
 v^u/M«<«6. W« rcraaioed in camp. ...«.„«.. 
 
 IoJmToJ a .mall ri.«».»..i • f^^f "J* "Idit^h 
 ahore the road, and n«r the moucf. of the ^«< f P"»« '•f^* 
 Uetweenl'.or..adind th« mouniwii i*^ «"«'•»? **r/*""fj 
 The river >• about eight mil., on ourl.fi » »h. .p.«« b«»w«Hin 
 
 '••^r^'r^'w^fratw -ba«l .itte.„ mile., on. miU 
 brot^KlI the Hot Spring., ««r whieh Ute r.>.d p«.«. 
 •S« epring. .re in . oon.t.fv4 .tal. of tbulUtion. rh.y 
 Ser a ftve to .1.. exU.„di„g -« « "^J^JJ^ 7^« J 
 three v»rd.. all uniting and forming . itreMa of on. y*ro m 
 J dY«r »«lt three'in«h<» deep, running qu.U» raptd. Th. 
 Zm i. .uffiei.nay hot for eul n«y ir7,f?f- *^„*"S; 
 riwta off aDProaching the ffloontom. which i. h.lf . »»• oie" 
 £ ^' alSr .p?ng.. ih. w.t*« of whinh flow »ta . «.er 
 
 !^«i.«^no.lrou. to «Mt th. qittUtiw of Ike w.t.r iffofdwi by 
 XKrin- Hi? owner., ming hi. i-rfi-'i^'/W^ 
 toa^t lTitep.,butf«l.d} wk.» he .rrived .1 Ui.br.nk 
 
 of ;rof ."em. .'S .tuck hU no«. ^^P'^Pt"^^^ /;» 
 Z a dranghl of t5i. ddiciou. nwJtar, h. imii>.d^tt.ly ^J^J^ 
 
 Ind 3ihe welkin ring by. hi- »-"?.•'[« LJi'ilS tl^S 
 "ng. he ahowed he wM eridwiUy di.plw.«d wjU. h«iw»U: 
 Ouf camo wo on Barrel er^k bottom, wh»ch w t.ry nwrsw, 
 
 ..vISTiinning b«»nch«. Th. ro«l i. n«Hr th. ^^^ 
 "r.1"? wifd »g«,.nd «.«. wood found in pl«ty. Ei. 
 AMniMid OB Oharlott.'. fork, » •mill branch. . 
 
 ^i«<«i W. t«wled .boat .ighto.n m^ wjkj 
 J^t\l: Boi. rim. . .t.««n of forty or hfty y.«i. »« 
 
Tin woatr MooNTAmft 
 
 4t 
 
 no appMrMic* of 
 mmadUtcly tia^H 
 wu quiW tUHiy. 
 lh«ft ■wl mfiMfy. 
 itkan mueh paiM 
 •nd hobbled him. 
 I Indian *in\e InW 
 Uid took hiio oif, 
 •ep. A few <»•/• 
 hOTM lo OM M ft 
 
 M 5 Q«ir camp waa 
 a niil«'t diatanee 
 iot Spring branch, 
 [raving wa« fountft 
 Uia tpMM b«lw«an 
 
 1 milMi one iniU 
 It the riMui paaaaa. 
 tbulUtioa. TiMy 
 aarf»ee of two to 
 un of one yard in 
 [ quite n^pid. The 
 CM. About fiiWa 
 it half a miU dun 
 ih flow into n reaer 
 ■fing (o oar party, 
 « wattr aflbrdad by 
 icUaatkm, aliiHBpttNl 
 krrivad al Ui<! brink 
 Mratory to indulging 
 imedtately whealad, 
 g i kicking uid ronr 
 paaed with hivMU^ 
 liich is t«ry nairsw. 
 e«n milM. eroaMng 
 lear the baa* olf th« 
 ittd in pitoty. Ear 
 
 btMn iiiU««» whWi 
 •riy or tAy ytwi« io 
 
 widih, and >boi;nding in lalmon i ita banks ar« linsd with 
 Calm of Otkaii timber. I'he boUjma here ars two or three 
 niilsa wiifo, and eoverod with grasi , 
 
 ^lufiuit 30. We (raveled about el<tv«n miles. The road 
 is eumetimes on bottom, al others, on lihiff. The Indiana are 
 yiBty nam«roiia niong (his ttresm ; thry have a lar^re number 
 of lionea ; vlixhing is in much demand i fur articlee of rlnthing 
 costing in the Spates teo or twelve dollars, t very good horse 
 csft be »»h'.cinsd. 
 
 Jiufftut SI. We traveled about 14 miles. The roed pui^ 
 suae its course down tlie valley uf (I*) Bots river. 
 
 Stfttmhtr I. We traveled about tliirteen milee. Two 
 miles from Mmn we crossed Bois river. 8umn of the bottoms 
 are covered with grass, others with wdd sage snd grease wood. 
 The roed was very dusty. There is uot much timber aloof 
 tlie stream, but great quantities of brush. 
 
 Srptfmhtr %. Ws rsMihed Fort Bois. This is • trtding 
 post of iha Hudson's Bay <Jomp«ny, eitahlislied upon the 
 Rnrtheri) side of Snake or Lewis river, and one nule below Ute 
 mouth of Bds river. This fort wss erected for the purpose 
 of i««niiiing, or «• en intetmediaie poet, more than as a traiding 
 
 Cioint. It is built of the same msteitsls, ami modeled aAer 
 ^ort Hall, but is of a smal'er rompaas. Portions of the bot- 
 toms around it tflbrd grasi;ig; but, in a genenl view, tlte sur- 
 rounding country ia berreo. 
 
 North of this fort is eii extensive plain, which has an ex« 
 iremely anfertiie sppeeru>wi but. I am informed, that during 
 the winter end spring monrlis it affords good gritting. At this 
 fort (hev have a quantity of tour in store, brought from Orkoon 
 Crrv, for which they demkvnded twenty dollars per cwl., in 
 fiitsh; t few of our nomprny being in extreme want, were 
 obliged i« purehase at this exorbiuot price At this plsce the 
 road crosses the river t the ford is about four hundred yards 
 below the fort, snd atrikes across to the head of an iaUnd.lhen 
 bears to the leA to the southern bsnk t the water is quite deep, 
 but aoi rspid ; it swam some of our omalleet work eattle : the 
 bottom is solid and smooth. We cut pules, snd laid them 
 aeross the top of our wagon-beds, piling our loading on them } 
 answering a twofold porpoee-^- preventing oor loading flrom 
 damege, as also by its weight keeping the wagons sie«dy and 
 guarding them againsi floeting. In about Uiree hours we 
 effected our passage in safety, but few of the goods getting 
 wM. We went up the botiome half mile, and there encamped ( 
 S 
 
'! 
 
 I 
 
 I'll 
 
 •Irivinf our r.uU on «n i-l.nd h.nJ by. to grnsf. F"" "««• 
 if nbout iwo hun.lred »n.l highly nulo. Ix-low l-ort lUll. fo • 
 lowing lli« wtKoii ro«d ; but by .•r.mtmd ihe nvrr «t l-ortlUII. 
 ■nd goina .lown on th« norili •i.l«. the .J..i«.i.-o woul.l bo 
 |«M«nf(i, M the rivur be.r. otT ■outh. «nd then north ; am 
 iudninK from ih« .ppMriinee of the oouniry. I think s roaU 
 in-y U found. eq.ul. if not Imiutr than ihfl on« on iha wulh 
 ■ld« J and, I doobt not. ihn irmxinn wdl be found betier. 
 
 Stpinnbtr 3. We traveled lil^en mile«, U> Mtlheur. or 
 Mtlore, M it i« •omeumM called : here la a gooil ramp. I hia 
 ia a elreain of about tan yarda in width, having lU aource in a 
 nnge of niouniaina to the aoulh-wwrt. and purauing ita roean- 
 deringa through a aucceaaion of hilla. aage ami aand plains, and 
 occaalonally a fertdo bottom, until it nrrive. «t Hnake river, 
 into which i. empiiea. A few milea be ow Fort Boia. Ita 
 courae from ita aource ia north of eaat Along lU banka. near 
 to where the road croa«M it, are a number of hot apringa ; they 
 are of the aame temperature of Ihoae between the two croaa- 
 inga of Snake river. Here we met Dr. White, a aub-Indian 
 agent, accompanied by tliree olhera. on their way from Okoom 
 to the HTATit. At Ihia place are two traila ; the fork la in 
 the bottom above the croaaing of the creek, and lhor« w a poa- 
 •Ibility of eraigTanta purauing the wrong route. I do not 
 deem it amiaa to give eorae particulara in relation to thia road. 
 Mr. Meek, who had been engaged aa oor pilot, but had pro- 
 Tiouaiv went in advance of the companiea who had employed 
 him. and who had after reaching Fort Hall, fitted op a party 
 to pilot through to Oregon. informwJ the emigranta that he 
 could, by Uking op Ihia alream to near iu aource, and then 
 •triking acroae the plaina. eo aa to interaect the old road near 
 to the mouth of De.hutM or Falla river, aave about one hun- 
 dred and fifty milea travel; also that he was perfecUv familiar 
 with the country through which the propoaed route lay, a» he 
 had traveled it : that no difficulty or danger attended ita travel. 
 He auccecded in inducing about two hundred familiea to pnr- 
 aue ihia route; they accordingly directed their courae to he 
 left, up thia creek, about ten daya previoua to our arrival at the 
 
 ^^Snttmber 4. We traveled about twenty mdea ; ten milea 
 brought ua to a aulphwr apring. and ten milea more to Bircli 
 creek, where we encamped. The country la conaidorably 
 rolling, and much of it barren : no timber found, 
 
 September 5. We traveled about eight maea ; three milea 
 
 2 ■ ' 
 
VMI ROCKY MOUMTAlNt. 
 
 Bl 
 
 KTnie. F.»rt Boia 
 low Fort lUll, fol- 
 
 rtvrr at Fort Hall, 
 liaianoe wrtmlil Im 
 I then north ; and 
 ry, 1 think a roatl 
 
 on* on ih« loulh 
 ound boiler. 
 «, ut Malhnur. or 
 f{(M>«l ramp. Thta 
 mn it* aourr« in a 
 purauing ita mean- 
 nd aand plaint, and 
 ea at Hnake river, 
 low Fort Boia, lla 
 ionK ita banka, near 
 if hot apring* ; they 
 reen the two croea- 
 iVhiM, a aub-Indian 
 r way from Orioon 
 lila; the fork ia in 
 
 and ther« is a po«* 
 [ route. I do not 
 elation to thia road. 
 
 pilot, but had pre- 
 who had employed 
 ill, fitted op a party 
 t emifranta that he 
 ita aourca, and then 
 '.i the old road near 
 lavfl about one hun- 
 as perfectly familiar 
 jaed route lay, a« ha 
 r attended ita travel, 
 dred familiea to pnr- 
 
 their courae to the 
 I to our arrival at the 
 
 nty milea ; ten milea 
 milea more to Birch 
 ntry ia coiiaidorably 
 found. 
 It milea ; three milea 
 
 bmught ua to Hnake river, and Ave more in riurnt river. Tho 
 mad la hilly but giKid i the country mounuiiioua. Hera it i 
 goo4l camp. 
 
 A'tpltmbtr 0. We mad* about Iwtir* mil**. Th« road ia 
 up llurnl river, and the moat ditllrutt road we have enruun- 
 tared anice we atarted. The difTiculliea aria* from the f-eiiufnt 
 rroMinfa of ihtt creek, which i« criNiked, narrow and aiuny. 
 We were often compelled to follow the road, in ita windinga 
 for aome diatanoe, uvur high, aidviong and atony ridgea, and 
 frequently through tliicketa of bruah. The atreani ia about ten 
 or twelv* yarda iu width, and ia generally rapid. Tb« htlla 
 ar* high, and covered with graaa. 
 
 Srpttm/jtr 7. Thia day we traveled about twelve milea. 
 The road exceeded in roughneaa that of yeaterday. Home- 
 timea it purauad ita coura* along the bottom of the creek, at 
 oilier timea it wound iu way along the aidea of the mountaina, 
 ao aidalong aa to requir* the weight of two or more men on 
 lite upper aide of the wagona to preaerve their equilibrium. 
 TIm creek and \ id are ao encloa«d by the high mounuina, aa 
 to aflbrd but little room to paaa along, renoering it in aome 
 
 iiUcea aliitoat impaaaabl*. Many of tlie mountaina viewed 
 roro hare aeem almoet perpendicular, and of courae preaent a 
 barren aurface. Tho eye ia m >. taionally rtlieved by a few 
 acrubby cedara ; but along the rreok ia found birch, bitter Cot- 
 tonwood, alder, iic., in quantity, and aeverul kinds of bruah 
 and briira, ao impenetrable aa to preclude ingreaa. 'I'lie road 
 purauaa ila oouraa through theae thiokela, the axe having been 
 employed ; but it ia ao very narrow jna almoat to prevent tra- 
 vel A little digging, and the uae of the nxe, united with the 
 erection of biidgea, would make this a very good roud. At 
 tirat view thia road appeared to us impasaubie, and ao difficult 
 of travel, m ulmoat to deter ua from the attempt; hut knowing 
 that thoae who had preceded ua had aurraounled the difHcultiea, 
 encouraged ua to peraavere. It requited much earefulneaa, and 
 the exercise of skill on the part of our drivera to paaa along 
 and avoid the dangera of the way. We puraued our route 
 without any loaa, with the exception of that attending the 
 breakage of two wagon tonguea, done in croaaing-some deep 
 ravinaa. We alao experienced difficulty in finding our cattle, 
 which had atrayed away. Five milea from camp the road 
 turna up a spring branch to the right, which we followed two 
 milea. croasing it very frequendy; it then turna up tho raouii 
 taia Iu the left, lutil it atrikea another ravine. We followed 
 
 mtmimm 
 
 ■ m i *«nn > 
 
 BiBlWWlB w ItfgMnWllH^jteWWWMiaMWfe* 
 
T 
 
 .„ JOURNAL OF TRAVELS OVER 
 
 tip this for one mile, where water miket ita .ppe«ranc«. Iloni 
 "■found a goo.l camp. The road then take. U) tha left up the 
 Srand then down to a dry branch r here i. a go«l.cmp| 
 on" mile to running water. ^I'hi- portion of »he road « «)l.d 
 
 '" ^/mfterT'^'Thie day we traveled about fo«rt"«n »"•?; 
 Two miles brought ua to the creek Rgam; the bottom her. w 
 of some extent. Sve followed thi. »«'»"» '^Vtl"!^ 
 one mile; the road then led up the right »«««» branch, cirajj- 
 inff .everal small branches, taking up « ravine to the left ow 
 a ridge, unUl it reache. the fork of the rivert poraue. tta rouj* 
 Sp this river some six or •r«™"««; "«"'"« '*^S ?" 
 directs ita course to the right, through » narrow rM»M ow 
 Sirmounuin. then atrlke. bry Branch; w* W^w^d -p thU 
 branch to running water, ani near •? » tcrvbhy P«»«» JjJ 
 we encamped. The road has been aolid and food. rh« hUia 
 Mid valleva appear well covered with gnaa. 
 '"XlX'i^. Thi. day we traveled •b««t .l««^ "'Ij; 
 The road runa up the branch for one mile, then toir*"^' 
 left over the hill, puraoing . ^"^ ^f ^-^p^""; I?' "T; ' 
 thirteen mho., until it reacTie. a .lough '"f^ • "rvuS 
 toms Powder river i. a atream of aome eight or ten yard, 
 rwidth. hiving it. .ource in the high «»g. of njo«n^'«;|3; 
 our left, which mountain, in many plic« are ooverwl wiin 
 ;:;w 'An abundance of pine timber i. f?««d ^^'V'J^ 
 Bides of the«. mou»Ui«., .ometime. ^^^^"^ ^jj''^^'^ 
 the bottoms, which here are between •'« •^'^ "•3". iTStT 
 width. The .oil U fertUe and would undoubtedly ytaid »«»ua- 
 
 ***To our right, at the diatance of fift«.n or t»"«»y "fj-J 
 preaented a high range of mountain., their baM ^o^^f J'* 
 Ls., their .ide. with heavy pine timber. -^^ *«" "™"J 
 fhTy are entirely destitute of vegeUtion : •«»• -^ J^«" *J 
 very lofty, their peaks prewnt a very »«"f<»"» •Plf""^!llt 
 lembil he snow moiintains. ThU .hinlng. *«■»'"« •PTJ 
 
 which they are compo.ed. being a kind of wh to day. 
 
 The valley between Powder river and »»»« wngj » f«y 
 rolling, portion, of it coverwl with wdd .^- Wild Jowl 
 
 '''r^::£\T''T^. day we^tr^veledabout t«i mikjaj^onr 
 couiT wa. down the valley of Powder "r*'' «5J» "^ 
 J^ught u. to the crossing of the .ame, on« mile to tlM RUddlt 
 
:r 
 
 appaaranee. Hon 
 H to (h« leA up th« 
 « is a good camp, 
 or the road ia solid 
 
 out fourtnen milw. 
 
 the bottom here is 
 for the disUnce of 
 land branch, crosa- 
 rine to the leit over 
 rt parsues ita route 
 Ming it twice, then 
 narrow r»»ine over 
 ve followed «p this 
 aerubby PiMt here 
 ndgood. The hills 
 I. 
 
 bout aixteea miles, 
 a, then turns to the 
 ng eoarse for some • 
 a Powder river bol- 
 1 eight or ten yards 
 ge of mountaina on 
 • are covered with 
 
 found covering the 
 tding for down into 
 Md aeven miles in 
 oubiedly yield abun- 
 
 or twenty miles, is 
 ir baae covered with 
 r. At their summit 
 : some of tliese aie 
 roua appearanoe, ie> 
 ing.daiiling appear, 
 •om the material of 
 r white day. 
 d thia ?anae is very 
 d C-- wad fowl 
 
 about ten miles ionr 
 »r river; eight miles 
 ne mile to the middle 
 
 THB «OCKT MOOWTAINa 
 
 sa 
 
 fork, and one to the third fork. There is good gfonnd for en- 
 campments at any point along these streams. 
 
 At our camp we were visited by an Indian chief of the tribe 
 CaMguas,* accompanied by his son. He was of a friendly dis- 
 position ; his object in visiting us was principally to bart^ for 
 catde i he had in his poesesaion thirty or more horaes. 
 
 Septtmber 1 1. This day wo travel<jd about twelve miles j 
 for the first five or six miles, tlie road was quite level and good, 
 it then follows a ridge dividing Powder river and Grand Round ; 
 tliia portion of the road is very uneven and siony. The road 
 leading down into the valley of Grand Round, is circuitous, 
 and its difficulty of travel enhanced by its roughness; it is 
 about one and a hdf miles in length, to where it reaches the 
 bottom. Grand Round is a valley, whose average width does 
 not exeeed twenty miles, and is about thirty milee in length ; 
 a stream of water of some twenty yards in width passes through 
 this valley, receiving considerable addition to its volume from 
 th« many rivulets that pour down their waters from the moun- 
 taina, by whieh this valley is enclosed. The bottoms are of 
 rieh friable earth, and afford grass of various kinds, among 
 others that of red clover. There is a root here found in great 
 abundanoe. and known as tlie eomat, which is held in high re- 
 pute by the Indians for some medicinal qualities it is ihouffht to 
 possess ; wild flax and a variety of other plants grow inluxn- 
 rianee, lik» to thoae I have observed in the western prairies. 
 The stream* are generally lined with timber, and abound in 
 salmon and other varietiee of fish. Upon the sides of the 
 mountains and extending down into the valley are found beau- 
 tiful grovee of yellow pine timber. These mountauis are 
 plaoe* of resort for bear, deer, and elk. 
 
 This bottom affordean ek client situation for a settlement, 
 possessing more advantages in that respect, than any found 
 Mooeour departure from the lower Platte river. North of this 
 and at tb* distaneo of about twenty miles, is another valley, 
 similai in appearanoe to this, but of greater extent The 
 streams bevtng their eonne through this valley empty into 
 Lewie rive», wbich is eighty or ninety mUes to Uic north. 
 Onr camp was at the foot of the hill, convenient to a spring 
 branch. At twilight we were visited by four or five of the 
 Calgues, the tribe alluded to previously. 
 An inddent quite wordiy ef note,oc-iurred at this place. The 
 
 • rnaoaixMd Kiwaw or Kioow. 
 
r 
 
 5i 
 
 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS OVBB 
 
 chief (Aliquot by n«me) who had Joined ue at our other en- 
 campmenl. and had pursued thia day', journey '« co^P^ny* 
 had pitched hia lent some ihiee hundred yards to the rear oi 
 our camp. In the evening, in atrolling about the camp, I cimo 
 near his tent, and entered with the inieniioo of employmg hit 
 ■quaw in the aoling of my moccwina ; while ahe waa engajjed 
 in this employment, a conversation had aprung up between the 
 old chief and myself, in which he took occaaion to ask me if 1 
 were a chrialian.aa also whether there were many upon the 
 road ; to which queaiiona I of course anawered In »»• ■*»™: 
 aUve, Bupposing that he merely wished to know, wnetner i 
 claaaed myaelf with the heathen or chriatiana. On my ratum to 
 our camp, aome one of our party propo«Hl that we ihould 
 while away an hour or ao, in a game at earde, which wa« 
 readily aeinled to. We had but en|pged in our minnaeinwit. 
 when the old chief Aliquot made hia appearance, holding » 
 
 small atick in hia hand; he atood ^f^^tJ^^TT^i. 
 and then advanced to me.raiamghia hand, which held the atocit 
 in the act of chaaUaing me, and gently telunf«»f, by^he ami, 
 said "CapUin— Captain— no good; no good. J®" ""y 
 guesa my Mtonishment. at being thus lecturwl by m " wild wd 
 Stutor«l aavage." twenty ave^undred ■»"- /"» * "J*^^^^^ 
 land. I inwardly resolved to abandon card pUying forcTer. 
 
 September 12. Thia day we traveled abont aeven mitoe ; 
 the road runa across the upper end of Grand round, to • am^ 
 spring branch, when it again ascends the ™<«?!f»''?V >» ^f 
 awing branch we pitched our camp, and while M«e. were 
 visit«S by great numbera of Indiana, induding men, equMW. 
 Ind papiS. Theae Indian, have decidedly a better .p«»j 
 ance than any I have met; tall and athleUc in fof"."'* «^ 
 great sj-mmetVy of person; they are generally weU ^•^ 
 SLrvJ pride in peUal cleanlineM. JW b"«ght »»^ 
 corn, potatoes, peas, pumpkina, fiah, &e.whieh they were 
 anxiouTto dispoee of for clothe, calieo. nankme and other ar- 
 
 S of weariV*PP«'«»5 ^Y "««» ^*K^T^ *^jS^ 
 b5i moccasin. fVylud f^honm. "tT* *;j;^Si^ 
 exchange for cow. and heifer. ; they would 8>f y,««**XI 
 horee fer a cow, esteeming the cow •• of equd ^^e- J»"J 
 remained with u. throughout the day, and when owmng »• 
 piLhed returned to tl^r lodje. ^'ong^htrnwrtwo n^e.^ 
 Emt I noticed a few of the ifei Perce. (Pwrced N«w)J«Jo 
 of Indian, among them. Both of theae tnbe. «• uwUr &• • 
 inaueoce uid oSntrol of two Preabytorim m»«oittne^ Dr. 
 
THE HOCtY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 5S 
 
 It our other en< 
 i«y in eompanjr, 
 8 to the rear of 
 ihe camp, I came 
 »f employing hi» 
 ■he was enga|^ 
 gap between the 
 m to ask me if I 
 
 many upon the 
 sd in the affirm* 
 mow, whether I 
 
 On my return to 
 i that we ahould 
 sarde, which wa« 
 
 onr amnaement, 
 iranoe, holding a 
 d for a moment, 
 bieh held the atick 
 I me by the arm. 
 Kid." Yon may 
 id by a ** wild and 
 ■ from a civilised 
 playing forever, 
 lont aeven milea ; 
 
 round, to a email 
 nntaina. At thia 
 while here, were 
 ing men, aquawe, 
 y a better appear- 
 s in form, a!na of 
 illy well dad, and 
 ey brought wheat, 
 which they were 
 line and other ar> 
 Ifssaed deer akiaa 
 ok they offered i« 
 gladly ezohange a 
 }ual valve. They 
 when evening ap> 
 iver two mitea dto- 
 iereed NoMa) trU>e 
 ibea are mder th*. 
 t miaaiooarieat Dr. 
 
 Whitman and Mr. Spalding, who have resided among them for 
 Jhe Sen years i %hl former among the Caiiguas, which mhabit ^ 
 te CO ntrrbordering on W.ilawalla river and it. tr.butar.e.. 
 h! Blue mountains and Grand round: the latter among the 
 Nez PercT. who inl.abit Uw country lying along Lew.s r.ver 
 and tu^ t, ibutaries, from the eastern base of the IMue mounla.n. 
 to the Columbia river. These minsionary establishments are of 
 a I ke Character to those farther north A. shall have occasion 
 to speak of these missionaries, as also U.e beneficial results 
 whiSh have flowed from their residence among the savages, I 
 
 " Som; of ouTJaTbecoming scant of provision. sUrted for 
 Dr Whitman's, the miseionary^sublishment referred to above, 
 
 S;i3irn rejoin us «t Umalillo river, my old inend Ahquot 
 ^nerou^ly profl-ered hU«.rvice. a. pilot for them, whtch were 
 
 '"SSI3. Thia day we traveled about seven miles. 
 FrorSnd Round the roaS ascends the Blue "»ountams, and 
 
 foi two mile. i. quite steep and Pr*"?**-"' L" to S> at^hed 
 extent, as to require six yoke of oxen, or more, to be atuwneu 
 to a waj^n ; fr!m the aummit of theae mountain. » presented 
 a roUinTcountry for some four mile., alternately prairie and 
 ^vS yeUow pine timber. In the prairie the grM. « qmU» 
 SJ but among the grove, of timber it ia green anS flounshiDg. 
 The rLT.«ry. tony; at the end of four m lea «» »fk" do^J 
 the mountain to Grand Round river, one "'»•'«.. '*'•♦"«';" 
 Sen crowe.. Here i. another bottom covered wiUi grass and 
 buTh«?tIhere we pitched our encampment. It is a remark- 
 able dre^mrtance Uiat when individual, are engaged in con- 
 JemS Uieir^oice. can be heard distincUy at a quarter of a 
 mXt^nce ; the di«Jharge of a gun resemble, that of a can- 
 Sn. and i. echoed from hiU to hill, the reverberauon. conUnu- 
 
 "^^Il^'lSf '^X we traveled about ten mile.. The 
 «J^i ie mountain for one and a half or two mde.. 
 Am wound along the ridge crowing many deep ravines, and 
 SSuTi^t. roSS^over hij craggy rock. ; •""•"XkCS 
 ^eoune over an open plain, at othera through thick groyea 
 of rimber, winding inong fallen tree, and logs, by which the 
 Id wS'«cu.I!Sr«l. ^-he «enery i. grand and beauufuU 
 aS cannot be aurpawed ; the country to a great dlatwwse i. 
 
 oottu^ allhoogh many amatt prainee are dotted over ita aut 
 
••- 
 
 JOUIUf AL OF TRAVHiB OVBR 
 
 fice The vallByr. are beautiful and the aoil presento a very 
 rich appearance. We encamped in an opening, on ihe souib 
 side of a range of mountain, running to Uie nor-h, and found 
 water in plenty in the bottom of the ravme, on ur left, about 
 Tne fourth of a mile from the ro«l. The Umber growing m 
 thU region ia principally yellow pme, apnice, baUtm fii, and 
 hemlock: amonii the butfhea I noUMd laurel. 
 
 Sm6rrf. Thi. day we traveled about nine mile., 
 over^rmain ridge of the §lue Mountain.. It i. moetly a 
 Lbered countrvlirough which we pa..ed J ♦h.^^^ilJ^e 
 lighlful, re.embfing in grandeur »t»» P'*«»»*«i»» S to Ui! 
 travel. We h*d a fine view of the Cawade ^omUmuto U^e 
 west. Mount Hood, the loftieat of the.e, waa pUm to the 
 Tiew It wM MB^one hundred and fifty milM dietant, and 
 Sg covere? with .now, appeared a. a whi^ cloud rumuf 
 Zy% tho«i .urrounding it. To the "O'^ ?f Mount Hooi 
 and north of the Columbia, U aecn Mount Saint Helen. We 
 halted for the night at Lee', encampment. 
 
 Sntembtr Ifc We traveled about .ixteen mile, thw day, 
 whiclTbrought ua to UmaUUo river. Here i. an Indian town, 
 The rSiK of the princij«l chiefii of the Cjifu-. At Ouj 
 tidM Ihey were moetty in the mountam. hunUM. The ro«l 
 ha. been good; the firat twelve mile* led ua through a «eU 
 timUred ooontry, the laat four mUea over prame j the country 
 Kd^ .pp««nce; the bank, of the .tre««. «re lined witk 
 •oMoiiwiod;Um of gilead. choke eherr e. and tvtry^TMj 
 SZL. 'TheIndifB.l«v.«foweultiv.todfieW.^ongA« 
 •tream; they raiae wheat, eom. potato*., pea* and a vanetv 
 ofvegL,!*.. AfUir the planting of crop., the l^ur of tend, 
 inff devolves upon th« aquawa, or la done by .Uvea, of which 
 Siy haw a number, beSg eaptivea taken in Uieir •«Pfd'^on« 
 SSi.*other tribe.. Th^y brought u. the different producta of 
 S^rm. for traffic. A. *ev expw-cd gnjj eagjrneja to 
 obtain dothee, and we had a lilie deeire tof^*" V8f^"2 
 a briak traffic waa continued untU dark. On yw^'day mom- 
 ins when about ready to .tart, we diwovered th»t eight or ten 
 o?WiorkcataewL«i.«ng. Four of our n«B,b«r. »y«lf 
 included, remained to hunt them up. In ow aeareh we ran*, 
 bled over the mountain, for aeveral mile., and at njh* """J 
 them about three mile, from camp; ^« *•« *J*'r>f * ^ 
 and arrived at Lee'. encampm«rtjn.t after ^!^ Th» mom- 
 ing an OS. a mule and a horae weremiMjii.. Th»e^ JJ 
 nuiaid to bwt for thwn. Wi imn)m4 *• V^sm wd 
 
THB HOCICY MOUNTAirra. 
 
 n 
 
 1 pretenta a verj* 
 ingt on the south 
 north, and found 
 on ur left, about 
 mber growing in 
 1, baUam fii, and 
 
 tbout nine miles, 
 It is mostly a 
 the scenery is de- 
 ed on yesterday's 
 IVlouQtaina to the 
 was plaia to the 
 naiUa distant, and 
 
 rhite cloud risir 
 , of Mount Hood, 
 'mint Helen. We 
 
 en milea this day, 
 8 an Indian town, 
 Ca^as. At this 
 ntinf. The road 
 us through a well 
 airiei the oountrv 
 una are lined with 
 and every variety 
 fld fields along tbia 
 MS and a ▼arietv 
 die labour of tena« 
 y slavcst of which 
 I their expeditions 
 fferent products of 
 great eagemeaa to 
 obtain TegeUblea, 
 a yesterday mom» 
 id that eight or tea 
 urnombMr.myaelf 
 ir aeareh wo rant* 
 ind at night found 
 n fddlowed the road 
 dark. Thia morn* 
 ■. Throe of ua ro. 
 i tiio jprairiM and 
 
 tbirkets for miles around, but were un8uccess(\il. We then 
 pursued the road to Umatillo, which we reached at night. 
 
 September 17. At eight o'clock this morning, tlie men who 
 had left us at Grand Round for Dr. Whitman's suUon, rejoined 
 us, accompanied by the doctor and his lady. They came in a 
 two horse wagon, bringing with them a plentiful supply of 
 flour, meal and potatoes. After our party had taken some re- 
 freshmenU the march wae resumed ; our visiters accompany 
 ing us to our camp four milea down the river. Our present 
 location affords but litde grating. , , . . v 
 
 Tho doctor and lady remained with us during the day; ha 
 took occasion to inform us of the many incidento that marked 
 his ten yeara' sojourn in this wilderness region, of a highly in- 
 teresting character. Among other things, he relatwi that during 
 his residence in this country, he had been reduoed to aueh ne- 
 ceaaity for want of food, aa to be compelled to alay hia horae ; 
 stating that within that period, no less than thiriytwo horses 
 had iMen served up at his table. ' ' ": ws that the sod has 
 never been cnliivatwl until wiU..- • few years back t but at 
 this time, so much attention is given to tho oulturo of the aoU, 
 which yidda abundanUy, that the privations of limine, or even 
 acaraity, will probably not again recur. Tho oondiUon of the 
 savagea has been greatly ameliorated and their improvonent is 
 chiefly attributable to tho missionary reaidouts. They have a 
 good stock of cattU, hogs, sheep, Ac., and raiae an wnount of 
 grain not only auffioient to supply their own wanta, but aOorda 
 a aurphia. These ttiboe differ m their appearance and oualom* 
 from any wo have met. They reoogniae tho change -h-h 
 has taken plaee, and are not ignorant that it has been effected 
 by the efforts and Ubor of the missionaries On tho other 
 hand, they acknowledge the beneats derived by yielding to their 
 inatructtons. They have embraced the ChrisUan religion, and 
 •pp«ir devoat in their eapouaal of ChriaUan dootrinee. Tho 
 entire time of the misslonariee ia devoted to tho eause for which 
 they have foraaken their flriends and kindred t they have left 
 the comforts of home, and those placeo which have been en- 
 deared by oariy aoaooiaUons, for tho wdd wildernosa and the 
 habitoaoc of the savage, prompted by those prmeiplM of oha- 
 rity and boaavolonce wbU tho ChrUuan roligkm alwaya in. 
 adeaws. Their privationa and triala hava bean great, but they 
 have borne them with humility and meekness, and the flniiU of 
 their dovodon are now manifoatt and if any olasa of pooplo 
 dasorvo ««U of dieir oouatry, or ara anUtlad to tha thaaka or 
 
mm JOURNAL or TKAVKL8 OVER 
 
 a chriatisn community, it i» the miisiontrie.. Having no 
 family of their own. they generously take fan.iliei of orphan 
 children, rai»e anil educate them in a manner that la worthy 
 of all commendation. , 
 
 Srpttmbtr 18. Thia morning, after breakfast, o«r worthy 
 KuesU left XM and we took up our line of march, «"v^-n8 °o*» 
 the Umalill.. valley for some twelve miles, crossmg the tlrtam 
 twice. The road then takes up the bluff to the rjfht, over % 
 high grassy plain. Our encampment was pitched on the bluff on 
 the left of li.e road. The water required at camp, was packed 
 about one and a half miles, being procured at the base of the 
 bluffs, up which we had to climb. The country :s very roll- 
 ing, covered with dry grass ; it is tnosUy praine. From hi. 
 po^int two snowy peaka appear m view, as alao the great vJley 
 of the Columbia; in truth it may be said that our present lo- 
 cation is in that valloy, although it is generally termed th« 
 
 ""*!i^Jr"*19. Thi. day we Iravrted "bou*. »•" »""••■ 
 
 Eight miles brought us to the river ; we followed the banks of 
 
 the river for two miles, and encamped? good gr"wnK.w found. 
 
 The stream as usual is lined with timber, but with this excep- 
 
 tion, it is a roUing prairie as far as can be seen, extending to 
 
 the north and south, and bounded on the east and west by 
 
 he Blue and Cascade mountains. "WhUst at this camp, we 
 
 were visited by the Wallawalla Indians; they reside along the 
 
 lower part of the Wallawalla, the low bottoms of the Um*. 
 
 tillo and the Columbia, from the mouth of I**^is mer for 
 
 • one hundred miles south. Thev furnished us with pota^ 
 
 and venisoni' In their personal appeamnce ^ey *»•»««* 
 
 Inferior to the CaSguas, and want the deanhness that charac- 
 
 terizea that tribe.// ,. l . a(v^„ „:im 
 
 Saittmber 20. This day we traveled about fi^n mUee. 
 
 For the first eight miles the soil was remarkablynch m 
 
 appearance, an admixture of sand and loam, and covered wiA 
 
 obod grass; the stream is lined with timber, m common with 
 
 Smy of those that we have passed ; the last seven miles WM 
 
 S ind heavy traveling. The Columbia ^^^^V^^ 
 
 itself on our right, at the distance of fonr milee. Th« nver 
 
 i??n vtowfor raSes along this road. The pifekly P"' » J«nd 
 
 in »bundance. It was our intention to have reached the 
 
 Columbia before encamping, but from the *'»««'» *^;«"';tl' 
 
 wen compelled to encamp on the ewidy plam, deprived or 
 
 water, wood and grass. 
 
THB ROCKY MOUNTAINi. 
 
 60 
 
 68. Having no 
 
 iiiliet of orphwi 
 
 that is worthy 
 
 ifaat, our worthy 
 I, trav'ing down 
 aiing the itream 
 the right, over a 
 id on the bluff on 
 amp, waa packed 
 It the baae of the 
 ntry :s very roll- 
 lirie. From thia 
 
 the great v Jley 
 it our preaent lo- 
 srally termed the 
 
 about ten miiea. 
 wed the banka of 
 
 grazing ia found, 
 t with thia except 
 eeen, extending to 
 ;sat and weat by 
 at this camp, we 
 y reeide along the 
 >ms of the tjma- 
 r Lewis river for 
 
 ua with potatoes 
 M they are much 
 linesa thatcharae- 
 
 Mtnt fifteen miles, 
 emarkably rich in 
 1, and covered with 
 ', in common with 
 at seven miles was 
 bia river presents 
 miles. Tne river 
 rickly pear is foond 
 have reached the 
 
 1 difficult traveling, 
 plain, deprived of 
 
 Septemhtr2\. This mominff at dsy-light we atartwl for 
 tne cfolumbia, diatanco three and a half milea. The nver at 
 thia place ia from a half to three-fourlha of a mile m widlb. 
 It ia a bcaulifnl stream ; ita waters »re clear and course gently 
 over a pebbly bottom. Along the Columbia, ia a strip of bar- 
 ren country of twelve milea in width; a little dry grata in 
 bunches, prickly pear and grease wood, dot its surface. With 
 this exception, ita appearance was wild and solitary to a Rreat 
 degree; but atorile aa it is in appearance, the view is relieved 
 by the majesty of the river that flowa by it. Immediately 
 along the bank of the Columbia ia a narrow bottom, cov- 
 ered with green grass, cncklebur, wild aunflower, pig weed, 
 and several other kinds of weeda, all of which were in full 
 bloom. There waa aomething inspiriting and animating m 
 beholding thia. A feeling of pleaaure would animate our 
 breaaU akin to that filling the breaat of the manner, when after 
 yeara of absence, the ahorea or bia native land appear to 
 view. We could scarce penraade ouraelvea but that our jour- 
 ney had arrived at its termination. We were fall of hope, 
 and aa it waa understood that we had but one more difficult 
 part of the road to surm lunt, we moved forward with re- 
 doubled energy; our horses and cattle were much jaded, but 
 we believed that they could be got through, or at leut the 
 greater part of them. 
 
 The Indiana were constantly paying ua viaits, furnishing us 
 with vegetables, which, by the by, were quite welcome ; but 
 they would in return demand wearing apparol, until by traffic, 
 we were left with but one suit. We were compelled to keep a 
 aharp look out over our kitchen furniture, as during these viaita 
 it was liable to diminiah m quantity by forming an attachment 
 towarda these children of Uie forest, and following them off. 
 Many of theae a avages were neariy naked ; they differ greatly 
 from tlie Calignas, being much inferior; th«y are a greasy, 
 filthy, dirty set of misereanU as ever might be meS. 
 
 Stptmiitr 22. This day we remained in camp, engaged 
 in tra^ with the Indians. Some of our party were in want 
 of hofsea, and took thia occasion to supply themselves. 
 
 Stpttmbn 28. This day we traveled about twenty mues. 
 Tha first eight miles the road ia heavy traveling; the remain- 
 ing portion however is much better, with the exception of the 
 laat five miles, which proved to be quite rocky. There is an 
 occasional green spot to be found, but the whole distance we 
 havii tiavded since we first stnick the river cannot be regarded 
 
^. JOURNAL or TIIAVKL* OVW 
 
 ■■ mow thin • b«rr«n Mndy pUln. In oor roou ihto diy wi 
 pu.ed •ev.r.l Indiin vilhges; ihey tre but temporary eitab- 
 liihmenu, as their migrtiory diipcilion will noi juiufy mow 
 
 permtnent •truclore*. . . ^ . • . ».iu- 
 
 AVplffnfter a4. ThUi diy we Inwled bat iixt^n miiw. 
 After t mirch of Mten milee, we erriwd tt ■ enisll "«•*•• 
 good iiuiation for eneemping j nine milee "»«" •""VKJ!' "' *° 
 !)ry Breneh, from whence we proceeded down the bluff to the 
 ri»« I . |T~t portion of the roMl tm^eled wm ewidy «id 
 
 **°!sj/«n6«- U. Thi. dey we trereled about fourteeii mile.. 
 The road wm quite hilly ; M^meUme. it followed the benk of 
 the river, .t other. P«r.ued ito eoerM .long the high bluff; 
 The river ia eooAned to i very ntrrow ehtnnel ; country very 
 berren, «nd the bluff, of greet heighu 
 
 Seplember U. Thi. day we traveled about three milee. 
 The roed awjend. the bluff; i. very difficult in ewsant from lie 
 .teepue... requiring twioe the foree to impel the *•?<«>•»"• 
 •Uv emDk>\-ed; eftw effecUng the anient, the emuoeity of the 
 roil aV^onJthe rockelJ »h. bluff on John Da/, river , 
 here we had another obalvrle toeurmount, that of g«»w? /""n 
 a hill Tery precipium. in it. de«*nt, but we nccompluibed U 
 wiAouttoror injury to our team.. ThU atream comee 
 tumbling through kwyane and rolling over ^^'J^r'^^^l 
 rate It i. *ery difficult to cro... on account of the atone 
 fonning the bed of the ereek » it. width, howevw. doe. not 
 SSedteny-rd.. The greiing i. indlff.re■^ the gra« being 
 
 **^«*2L «7.' Thi. morning we di»over«l that Mver^ 
 
 of oJr trsil rope. h«l bee. ?«?"• .^'i'^^^.r^.. J^ 
 found uaUl viry late; notwilhatandiog Uje «»«>*y »»•«• •«»• 
 SoSdwtr.v3ed«»».tw«.ty«ile.. The ro«l for thj^«t 
 three mUe. i. np hUl ; it hm porroe. ita cour^ over MF^J. 
 Sg pWa Vfif^ or «.telw. mik*. wh« H H-n A»r*na. 
 "ZVs to the benk oj .he OohimW.. wh«h w. fijfowrf 
 down for one mil* wd there encamped. The Uufi. aro very 
 hkfhwMl rocky. We differed great ineonvenien«.fK«Ui« 
 wSt^fXi there kinon. to"be foniid t°».»^l5?""S^ 
 
 rcSleLted a few dry •««'» '^ ^^J^'^JL'tnfiiSS 
 enabled n. to parttaUy eook oor food. The road we traiveM 
 
 '^"4SX'5». ^ day we »"^ « *««^':i- "^ 
 TiramUM broufbtaa to the eraaainfc of DeabniM cr FUla 
 
ittt* ihi« day w« 
 Icmporary nUh- 
 not juaiify moro 
 
 t lixtMii milM. 
 K mikll crevk, • 
 ir« brought ua to 
 a ih« bluff to th« 
 i wM Mody Bud 
 
 It foartcra milM. 
 iw«d the bsnk of 
 I the high bluff. 
 •I i eouviry r«ry 
 
 lout Ihrae nilM. 
 n Mcent from iu 
 th« wuoM am* 
 I nnuositT of th« 
 ohn Day ■ rif or i 
 at of goin^ down 
 I Mcompliabed it 
 ia atream eomM 
 «eka at • violent 
 vni of th« atone 
 lowevw, doee not 
 It, the graaa being 
 
 rered that aevenl 
 raee eould not be 
 delay thua oce^ 
 B road for the firat 
 inw over a graaey, 
 litifaindeaceode 
 liieh we followed 
 ho Uaib are verjr 
 renieDee fraoa tM 
 »ng the Odttmbia; 
 and weeds, wbieil 
 e road we traveled 
 
 mut twelve nilee. 
 DeahniBS or Fatti 
 
 THB lOCKY MOUNTAmt. f| 
 
 river ; a atream having ita source tn a marshy plain bordaring 
 on the Great Basin, and receivea numeroua Inbuiaries li<iadiug 
 m the Caacade mountains, the easb'rn base of which it fnllowa 
 and pours iu watera into the Columbia. The mouth of De 
 Bhutes river is near fifteen miles east of the Dalles or eaaiern 
 bam! of these mounUins ; the river ia about one hundred yards 
 wide, anil the current very rapid; the stream is enclosed by 
 lofty cliffs of baaaltio rook. Four hundred yards from the 
 Columbia ia a rapid or caacade. Within the distance of thirty 
 yards iu descent is from fifteen to twenty feet. The current 
 of this stream waa ao rapid and violent, and withal of audi 
 depth, a* to require ua to ferry it. Some of the companies 
 behind ua, howaver, drove over at iU month by oroaaing on a 
 bar. Preparatory to ferrying, we unloaded our wagons, and 
 taking them apart, put them atward some Indian eanoes, which 
 were in waiting, and crossed in safety; after puttii^f our 
 wagona in order of travel, and preparing to start, we diacov* 
 ered ourselves minus a quantity of powder and shot, two shirU 
 and two pairs of pantaloons, whieh the Indians had appropri* 
 ated to their own use, doubdeas to pay the trouble of ferriage. 
 
 In the morning a quarrel eneued among tlie Indiene respeet^ 
 ing their eanoes, cloatng in a ms/sc, and such a fight I never 
 before witnessed ; stones and missilee of every description 
 diat were at hand were uaed with freedom. We did not inter- 
 fere with them, and when dtey were tired of fighting the 
 effeeU of die balde were viaible in numerous instances, such 
 as bloody nosea and bsttered, bleedinc heads. 
 
 We ascended the bluff and travdTed along the brink for 
 ■everal miles, then crossed over the ridg3 to a small creek ; 
 after crossing it, we took up a dry run for one or two miles, 
 thenoe over a ridge to a running braneh, and there encamped. 
 The country Uirough which we traveled this dsy waa ezhrerae* 
 ly rough ; all prairie, and eovered widi crass, but very dry. 
 
 Sqttai^r 39. This dav we traveled about five milee, 
 whidi bnmght ua to the DalU$, or Med;odtst Missions. Here 
 was die end of our road, as no wagons had ever gone below 
 this fdaee. We found some sixty famUies in waiting for a 
 passwgo down the river; and as there were but two small 
 boaki ranning to the Casoade falls, our prospect for a speedy 
 passage was not overly flattering. 
 
 StptenUter SO. This day we intended to make arrange* 
 ments for our passage down die river, but we found upon 
 inquiry, dut die two boata apokeu of were engaged for at leut 
 
es 
 
 JOUBNAU or T»ATtUI OVBtt 
 
 tan d>y», •nd »h»« »•»«•' chargM winw «»».rbiUnl, and *oul.l 
 proUbly «h«orb whM liiUe we hwl l«r» \» pay our w.y to 
 Or^iran City. We then tlelermmed «i> make a Uriporer Um 
 mounuina. and made inquiriea r«a()eclini lu prwjucb.lity of 
 •otne Indiana, but could learn nolhinR dntiiuie, eiceplinf Uial 
 ffraii. timber and water would be foi»n.l m abundanc* { w« 
 Hnully aacerUined that a Mr. Btrlow and Mr. Nighton h«l, 
 with the -ame objwt. penetrated aome twenty or »*«n«y-n»« 
 miiea into the interior, and found it impracticable. Nihlon 
 had returned, b».l Bariow wae yet in die nMwmiaina, endf»»or. 
 ing to fore a paNag«; ihey had been abeeut aix daya. with 
 ■even wattma in their train, intending to go •• far ai they 
 could, and if found to be impracticabU, to reUim and go down 
 
 '*We «ice8*ded in p«nm«din« fiftuen faroiliee to accompaoy 
 aa in our trip o»er the roountaina, and immediately «'•*'•?";; 
 parationa for our march. On the ifternoon of the brrt of 
 October, ouf preparaiiona were announced aa complete, and 
 we took up our line of manjh ; nthera in the mean time had 
 joined ua, and ah.» dd we faU in widi Barlow, our tram would 
 eonaiat of aome thirty wagona. 
 
 But before preceeKling with a des. nption of ihie route, l 
 wiU eol« into a deUil oi the difficuUiea undergone by the 
 company of two hundred wagona, which had a«pa«ted from 
 U9 at Malheur cieek, under the pilotage of Mr. Meek. 
 
 Ilwill be remembered that 8. h. Meek had inducwl about 
 two hundred faniiliea, with their wagona and atock, to turn off 
 •t Malheur, with the view of aaving thereby aomo one hjin 
 are*! and fifty milea li«»cl ; and they had .tailed about the hjat 
 of Auguat. They foUowed up Malheur creek, keeping up the 
 •outhem branch, and purauing a aouthern courae. For a long 
 time they found a very good road, plenty of |taae, fuel and 
 water; they left theae watera, and directed their courae o»er a 
 tough mountwnou. country, almoat entirely berefi oJ v^geta- 
 Uon, were for many day. d«iUtute of w"**'. -"f ^ul^Tt 
 were ao fortunale a. to procure Ihta indi.pena.ble e'ejwnU i 
 tTM found alagnant in pool., unfit e«D <"' »»^« "''^^ **; J*, 
 but neceMily compelled them to the uae of it. The re.« I 
 waa, that it made many of tl. m aick ; many of the eatUe diwl, 
 and the majority were unfit far labor, A d«ea.e termed camp- 
 feyer, broke out among the diffarent campsjne., of 
 many became the yielima. 
 
 I camp- 
 
 2 
 
rim iwciY irot'ifTAiMa 
 
 S3 
 
 biUnt, and «oul<l 
 I p«y our w«y to 
 tka t (rip ovnr iIm 
 a prMiicability of 
 tia, escepiinf Uitt 
 D kbundancc} w« 
 Mr. Nighton htd, 
 my or twenty-ft*« 
 ;ti(«bl«. Nifhlun 
 i(inuiiii«( en*le»¥or* 
 ■lit aiz (la) •« with 
 p M far •■ ihay 
 •tuna and go down 
 
 tlies to accompany 
 eJiatoly nii»v'e pro- 
 n of the firat of 
 I aa eomplota, and 
 Ita mean tima hail 
 w, our train would 
 
 m of thia route, I 
 und«rg»ne by th« 
 lad ettparatad fruin 
 Mr. Meek. 
 had induced about 
 d atciok, to uim off 
 iby Homo one huii 
 larted about the laai 
 aek, keeping up the 
 »urae. For a lone 
 of |Taaa, fuel and 
 1 their courae over a 
 \y bereft ol vegeia- 
 ler, and when tliejjr 
 jienaable element, it 
 iir th« uae of eatllo i 
 of it. The ratalt 
 ly of the cattle died* 
 taeaae termed camp- 
 jnip;Jii«B, of which 
 
 They at lenfth arrived nt a marehy lake, which th<<y aU 
 tovmpiei! to crom, but found it inipracupablei and m the niarth 
 apurired to b«'ar noulh. an.l many of them were nearly mit of 
 proviiiona. k\.pv came u> a determination U» purtue a north^'m 
 courte. and *Knkt, the Columbia. Meek, however, wiahe.l t4 
 |n aouth of the lake, but they would not follow him. They 
 turnrtl iiorlh, Hnd after a few daya' travel arrived at Dealiuloa 
 or Falla river. 'ITiey traveled up and down thia river, endea- 
 voriHK to rtnd a paaaagc, Init aa it ran through rookjr kmyotu, 
 it wae im|>oMiblv tu croaa. 
 
 Their auffinuR* were daily l ii-reaiinir, their atoek of pro- 
 Tiaioiia w«a rapiilly wanlintf away, ibeir csllle wf beoommg 
 •ihauatod, and many atUche<l to the company w«re laboring 
 nnder aevere altacka of aickneaa ;— at length Meek informed 
 them that they were not more than two daya' ride from the 
 Dallea. 'IVn men aUrted on horaebark for the Methodiat 
 ■Uliona, wiUt the view of procuring provUiona ; they took with 
 them a acanty supply of prov ni«me. intended for the two daya 
 journey. After riding faithfully for ten dayt, they at laat 
 arrived at the Dallea. On their way they encountered an In- 
 dian, who furnished them with a fiah and a rabbit j thia with 
 th« provtaion they had atarted with, waa their only food for 
 the ten daya' travel. Ui»on their arrival Ht the Dall«"« they 
 were ao exhaualed in atreunth, and the rijpdity of their limba, 
 from riding, wae ao great, aa to render them unable to dismount 
 without laaiatance. They reached the Dallea the day pr*- 
 ▼ioue to our arrival. 
 
 At this place they met an old mountuncer. unidly aim 
 Black Harria, who volunUered hie aervirea as a pilot. He 
 in company with aeveral oihera, marted in search of the lost 
 company, whom tliey found reduced to great extremitiea ; 
 their provisions nearly exhaustoti, and the company weakened 
 bv exertion, and doapairing of ever re«cliing Uie seltlemeniB. 
 'fhey succeeded in finding a place where their cattle could be 
 driven down to the river, and mnde u> swim acrosaj after 
 croaaing, the Muff had to be aaceiuled. Great difficulty aroee 
 in the attempt to eflfcct a paa-age with tbe wagons. Fhe 
 means finally reeorted to for the tranaportation of the fann los 
 and wagona were novel in the extrcmo. A large rope waa 
 awung across the atream and attached to the rocka on either 
 aide ; a light waaon bed was sutpendwl irom this rope with 
 pulleys, to which ropes were attached; this bed served lo 
 eonvoy the famiUM and loading in aafcty aerou } the wagons 
 
I! 
 
 2 
 
 wtra ihi»n •lf»wn o»tr the lied <>f tl»« ri*»r hy rop*«. T!n 
 paiMia of tlii» riv«r iKVupio'l •<»n«« iwo wrok*. I lio <luUiii« 
 mu a.irty-rtv« ntili!! to lli« Dtllt.-. »l whirl, plar* llicy .rnveU 
 •boul llw laih, or Utii of Ocwilwr. Some twenty of lh«i.- 
 niiinlior had p«ri«hcd by dintw, pn'»ioim Uj tlieir ■nival at 
 tlie Dallw, and k l.ko numbtr wer« loil, -fior their iirri»iil. «fom 
 Ihn tmna ciiuee. 'I'hie ••om^»«ny ha* »w«-o kimwn by the nim« 
 of lh« Si. J.-eph company j but Miern wrre per«on» froin every 
 ■UM of tli« Union wiUiin ile nnke. IlliiuM* and Miawuri, 
 however, had the larMit repruMnUlion. , , 
 
 Tht lUtcmenitf I have |i*en are aa torr«» a« I «"otdd arrive 
 at, from eoiiauluiion with many of th« inenil>cr». Thia expe- 
 dition waa unforiunata in th« eitremo. jAIlhoiigh coniiionceU 
 umkr favorable auapicea, ita Urminalion aaiumed a gloomy 
 
 charaolar. , , ,. . t n 
 
 It haa b«en aUted that aoine membera of the lludaon a Hay 
 Company ware inalnimeiital in ihia expedition, but auch la 
 not the fact. Whilal I waa at Fort Hall, I converacd witii 
 CapUin (Jrant reapecting the practicability of line aame route, 
 and waa adviaml of the fnct. that l!ie leama would be unable to 
 get through. The individual in charge at Fort Boia alao ad- 
 viaed me to th« aame purport. The ceiuure reata, in the 
 origin of lh« expedition, upon Meek j but I have not the leaat 
 dtHibt but he Buppoaed they could get through «'»•«[••)[• J 
 have underatood that a few of the membera oonUolled Meek, 
 and cauaed hiin to depart fioin hia original plan. It *»•"'• 
 deaign to have coiidiicic<l the party to the HillanuUe f alley, 
 inatead of going Ui the D^llea ; and the direilion he ftrat tra- 
 veled induced tiiia belief. Meek ia yet of the opinion that had 
 he gone round the marahy lake to the «ouih, lie would have 
 •trook the eaiUement on the Willamette, within llie lime re- 
 quired 10 travel to the Dalles. Had lie diatovered ihia route, 
 it would have proved a great aaving in the distance. I do not 
 oueation but that lliere may be a route found to the aouth of 
 thU, opening into the valley of the Willamette. But I muat 
 •gain return to the aubjeet of my Iravela. 
 
 October I. At four o'clock, P.M., every thing wna ready 
 for our departure, and we puraued our way over the rtdge, m 
 a aouthern couree. The c mntry waa very rolling, and prin- 
 eipally prairie. We found excellent grazing. Our camp waa 
 pitched on a aroall apriug branch. 
 
 October 2. Thia day we maile about ten milca, croaaing 
 several ravine*, many of which had running water in them ; 
 
 
T»E aOC«Y MOUNTAINa 
 
 by rnp*i. '''■n 
 k«. Tlia ituUiiiit 
 piapi Ihcy arrivtd 
 V twenty of thaif 
 M llieir anival ■! 
 their iifriful, Irom 
 inwn by the nam* 
 lemona from everv 
 itiia and Miasouri, 
 
 !t 3* I rniild arrtfa 
 Irtsra, Thia aip»- 
 tioiigh coniaix/iwad 
 aauiuad a gloomy 
 
 the Hudaon'a Bay 
 iiiioii, but auch ia 
 
 I convarac'd witli 
 of thia Pome route, 
 would be unable to 
 I'orl Boia alao ad- 
 ixure reata, in the 
 
 liafe not the least 
 oufh in aafely. I 
 I controlled Meek, 
 1 plim. It waa his 
 nUlanulte I'aUey, 
 ittction he first Ira* 
 he opinion that had 
 jih, lie would have 
 •ithin tlie time ro- 
 M.overed this route, 
 distance. I do not 
 lul U) the aouth of 
 mctte. Rut I roust 
 
 ry thing wai ready 
 ty over the ridge, in 
 •y tolling, and prin- 
 ng. Our camp was 
 
 ten milea, crosaing 
 iug watrr in them,} 
 
 the I'ftontry, Uks that of yraterday's travel, proved to be very 
 rolling; our camp w;-< aituaied on a '•nallaprmgbraiieh.havmg 
 its source in th« niounuiin. 
 
 fklober 8. This innrumK I atnrtrcl on horaeback in advance 
 of ttie company, arcompaiiied by one of ila membera. Our 
 courae led ua louth ovrr a rolling, grasay plain i portions of 
 tlie mad were very ttony. Aftrr a trav«l of fourloon milna, 
 we arrived at a long and airep declivity, which w* d«a(>«ii(l«<l, 
 and afler craaamg the i-re<<k at its baic, aacendml ii bluff; in 
 the bottom are aeen aeveral amall enrloaurea, whrre th« Itximna 
 have cultivated the soil; a few Indian huta nMy be seen along 
 thia atrmim. 
 
 Meek'a company croaard Deshuts'a river near the mouth of 
 thia atrearo, which ia live nnlca diitant. Alter aarending, ws 
 turned to the right, liirecting our courae over a It3v«'l griuay 
 
 Etiuin for aome Ave milea or rnnre, when we croaaed a running 
 •ranch ; five milea brought ua to Stony Branch, and to acat- 
 tering yellow pine timber. Here we found Barlow'a company 
 of leven wagons. Barlow waa »baent at the time, having with 
 three otheia atarted iiiUi the mouiiuiin two daya before. We 
 remained with them all niKht. 
 
 Oelobtr 4. Thia morning myself and companion, with a 
 scanty supply of provisions fur a two days' journey, started 
 on a westerly course into the muuntaina. Prom the open 
 ground we could aoe Mount Hood. Our object wua to go 
 aouth and neut to thid peak. For five milea tJie country was 
 alternately prairie and yellow pine : we then aacended » ridge, 
 which aacendrd gradually to the west. Thia we followed for 
 ten miles. After the crossing of a little brushy bottom, we 
 took over another ridge for four or five miles, very heavily 
 timbered and dennnly covered with undergrowth. We de- 
 scended the ridge for a short distance, ana traveled a level 
 bench for four miles ; this is covered with very large and tall 
 fir timber; we then deacersded the mountain, traveling west- 
 ward for one and a half miles, we tlien csme to a small branch, 
 which we named Rock creek. After crossing the creek, we 
 ascended a hill for one fourth of a mile, then bore to the left 
 around the hill, through a dense forest of spruce pine. AAer 
 five mUes travel from Rock creek wo came to a marshy cedar 
 swamp ; we turned to the left, and there found a suitable place 
 (ai crossing. Here ia a atream of from five to six yards in 
 widtii, when confined to one channel ; but in nianv places it 
 ftns over a bottom of two rods in width, strewed with old moM 
 6 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
...u. 
 
 '1 
 
 I 
 
 !■ 
 
 gj JOURNAL OF TRAVELS OVER 
 
 covered logs and roota. The w.ter WM «<W™«>y ej*" "J 
 cold. FoSr mile, brought ... to the top of the blufr of .deep 
 gulf; we turned our coune northward for »wn.f"";.r„ ' 
 darkneee overtook u», forcing ue to encamp. A htUe f«" Y^M 
 diacernible on the mounUin aide., whlcli afforded our jaded 
 
 'Tr^rri^'a^early hour thi. momln, I V^^ 
 down the mountain to the atream at lU baae. 1 ft»"nj th* Jj" 
 .cent very abrupt and difficult; the diatance waaone half mile. 
 ZZ^T wM?unninji veryrapid; it had the aame appe7.ce 
 18 the water of Uie A/?mwn, beinjj filled with white aand. I 
 followed thi. stream up for .ome diaunce, -nj "«;'^'"~ ,^^^^^ 
 it. .ource wa. in Mount Hood; and fr«m .»»»• f PP«.*""*' ""^ 
 the bank., it aeem. that it. water, .well during he night, oyer- 
 flowing it; bank., and subaide again by day ; it •nipUe. into 
 Derhut,'. river, having a ..ndy bottom of f'"»;]*» "J* .^^ 
 half a mile wide, covered with acrubby pinea, and aomeumee 
 a .lough of alder buahe.. with a litUe gra.. and w*e.. jWe 
 then ascended the mountain, and aa our atock of provUiona 
 WM barely .ufficient to l-t u. through the day, .t w« found 
 necessary to return to Sanip. We reUaoed our •»«P«to where 
 we had struck the bluff, and followi^ down a -ho' d**^";* 
 
 where we found the mountain of -"fl^^'^^ArflSow^S 
 to admit of the paMage of team. ; we could ^^f^'^'^^f^* 
 bottom toward. Mount Itood, and a. we ■"PP«««*Ji»» ^^ 
 peak waathe dividing ridge, we had reawnaWe g»«nd. to 
 Eope that we could get through. We then took out ttail m the 
 dirWon of the camp ; and late in the evening, Ured and hun- 
 arf, we arrived at Rock creek, where we found our company 
 Ittwimped. Barlow had not yet returned, but we waolved to 
 
 '^'"octofter 6.' We remained in camp. Aa the sn*}H wai 
 poor in the timber, and our looae oatUe much trouble toua, we 
 determined to wnd a party with tliem to the aelUement rhe 
 Indian, had informed u. that Uiere wa. « trail to the north, 
 which ran over Mooi.t HockI, and thence to Oregon city. 
 Thie party y^ to proceed up one of the ridge, until they atruek 
 thia t!aU, and then foUow it to the aetUement Two familie. 
 decided npon g«i.« with thia p«rty, and m I «F*«^ %ha;« 
 no further u«, for my hor«i, I sent l.im *"* »^"^, „;»'^ 
 were to procure proviaiona and aMiatanoe, and meet na ontho 
 way. We had forwarded, by a company of e*»»»J^"]2,'!??iI!Il 
 the DaUe.» which at-rted for Uie .etUement on the firM or Um 
 
 '.I WIIKI U ■ < ,1 "" tJWW>i< 
 
L, 
 
 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINa 
 
 67 
 
 :tr«inely cletr ind 
 
 he bluff of a deep 
 
 two miles, when 
 
 A Utde gtwu wu 
 
 iffurded our jaded 
 
 ninr, I proceeded 
 I. I found the do- 
 waa one half mile. 
 te same appearance 
 ilh while sand. I 
 md ascertained that 
 the appearance of 
 ingthe night, ovcn 
 ly; it empties into 
 f' from two rods to 
 nes, and sometimes 
 • and rushes. We 
 itock of provisions 
 i day, it was found 
 I our steps to where 
 vn a short distance 
 tly gradual descent 
 1 ther follow up the 
 supposed that this 
 tsonable grounds to 
 took our trail in the 
 ring, tired and hun- 
 found our company 
 I, but we resolved to 
 
 Iks the graiing was 
 ich trouble to us, wo 
 lie settlement. The 
 « trail to the norihi 
 lee to Oregon city, 
 iges until they struck 
 lent Two families 
 ks I ezpeeted to have 
 I wiUi them. They 
 , and meet ns on the 
 of eattle^rtvon firom 
 lat on the first of Um 
 
 month, a request that they would send us provisions and as- 
 sistance i but as we knew nothing of their whereabouts, we 
 had little hope of being benefited by them. The day wus 
 spent in making the necessary arrangements for the cattle- 
 drivers, and for working the road. In the afternoon, Barlow 
 and his party returned. They had taken nearly tlie some 
 route that we had; they had followed up the bluff of this 
 branch of the De Shutes, to within iwelve or fifteen miles of 
 Mount Hood, where they supposed they had seen Willamette 
 valley. They had then taken the Indian trail spoken of, and 
 followed it to one of th-* ridges leading d n to the river De 
 Shutes; this they followed, and came out near our camp. We 
 now jointly adopted measures for the prosecution of the work 
 before us. 
 
 October 7. Early in the morning, the party desiniated to 
 drive our loose cattle made their arrangements, and left us. 
 And as we supposed our stock of provisions was insufficient 
 to supply us until these men returned, we dispatched a few 
 men to the Dalles for a beef and some wheat; after which, we 
 divided our company so as that a portion were to remain and 
 take charge of the camp. A sufficient number were to pack 
 provisions, and the remainder were to be engaged in opening 
 the road. All being ready, each one entered upon the duty 
 assigned him with an alacrity and wUlingness that showed a 
 full determination to prosecute it to completion, if possible. 
 On the evening of the 10th, we had opened a road to the tcp of 
 the mountain, which we were to descend to the branch of the 
 De Shutes. The side of the mountain was covered with a 
 species of laurel bush, and so tliick, that it was almost impos- 
 sible to pass Uiroiigh it, and as it was very dry we set it on 
 fire. We passed down and encamped on the creek, and dur- 
 ing the night the fire had nearly cleared the road on the side 
 of the mountain. 
 
 On the morning of October 11th, a consultation was had, 
 when it was determined that Mr. Barlow, Mr. Lock, and my- 
 self, should go in advance, and ascertain whether we could 
 find a passage over th(« main dividing ridge. In the mean 
 time, the remainder of the party were to open the road up Ae 
 creek bottom as far i^ they could, or until our return. We 
 took some provision in our pockets, an axe, and one rifle, and 
 sUrted. We followed up tliis branch about fifteen miles, 
 when we reached a creek, coming in from the left. We fol- 
 lowed up this for a short distance, and then straek aeross to 
 
 mmmmm 
 
gg JOURNAL OF TBAVBL8 OVER 
 
 the main fork; •nd in doing so, wc came into a cedar swamp, 
 to covered with lieavy limber and bruuh that il was almoai 
 imposaible to get llirougli iu We were at least one hour in 
 traveling half a mile. We atnick the opening along the other 
 fork, traveled up this about eight miles, and struck the Indmii 
 rail spoken of before, near where it comes down the mountain. 
 The last eight miles of our course had been nearly north— -■ 
 high mounuin putting down between the branch and mam 
 fork. Where we struck llio trail, it turned west into a wide, 
 sandy and stony plain, of several miles in width, extending up 
 to A/ount Hood, about seven or eight miles distant, and in 
 plain view. , 
 
 I had never before looked upon a sight so nobly grand. 
 We had previously seen only the top of it, but now we had a 
 view of the whole mounUin. No pen can give an adequate 
 description of U)is scene. The bottom which we were as- 
 cending, had a rise of about three feet to the rod. A perfect 
 mass of rock and gravel had been washed down from the 
 mountain. In one part of the bottom was standing a grove of 
 dead trees, the top of which could be seen ; from appearance, 
 the surface had been filled up seventy-five or eighty feet about 
 them. The water came tumbling down, through a little chan- 
 nel, in torrento. Near the upper end of the bottom, the moun- 
 tains upon either side narrowed in until they left a deep chasm 
 or gulf, where it emerged from the rocky cliffs above. 
 
 Stretching away to the south, was a range of monntam, 
 which from the bottom appeared to be connected with the 
 mountain on our left. It appeared to be covered with timber 
 far up { then a space of over two miles covered with grass; 
 then a space of more than a mile destitute of vegetation ; theu 
 commenced the snow, and continued rising until the eye was 
 pained in looking to the top. To our right was a high nwe^ 
 which connected with Mount Hood, covered with timber. 
 The timber near the snow was dead. 
 
 We followed this trail for five or six miles, when it woanfl 
 up a grassy tiiige to the lelW-followed it up to where it eon- 
 neeted with the main ridge ; this we followed np for a mUe, 
 when the grass disappeared, and we came to a ridge entaraly 
 destitute of vegetation. It appeared to be sand and gravel, or 
 rather, decomposed material from sandstone crumbled to pecea. 
 Before reaching this barren ridge, we met a party of those 
 who had started with the loose cattle, hunting for eome whiiA 
 bad ttrayeil off. They informed vm that they had lost sbont 
 
-im-f 
 
 lo a cectar swamp, 
 lat it was almoti 
 
 least one hour in 
 ng along the other 
 
 struck the Indian 
 iwn the mountain. 
 n nearly north— -a 
 
 branch and main 
 
 west into a wide, 
 'idth, extending up 
 es distant, and in 
 
 t so nobljr grand, 
 but now we had a 
 give an adequate 
 irhich we were as- 
 lie rod. A perfect 
 ed down fmni the 
 standing a grove of 
 ; from appearance. 
 If eighty feet about 
 trough a little chan- 
 \ bottom, the moun- 
 ly left a deep chasm 
 lifis above, 
 range of monntain, 
 M>nnecled with the 
 lovered with timber 
 overed with grass ; 
 af vegetation ; theu 
 J until the eye was 
 \X was a high ranges 
 vered with timber. 
 
 lies, when it wound 
 up to where it eon* 
 owed up for a mile, 
 e to a ridge entirely 
 sand and gravel, or 
 scrambled to piecee. 
 et a party of those 
 ting for some whfeh 
 they had lost abool 
 
 THE ROCKY MOUNl AINB 
 
 m 
 
 one-third of their cattle, and were then encamped on the west 
 side of Mount Hood. We determined to lodge with them, 
 snd took the trail over the mountain. In the mean time, the 
 cattle-drovers had found a few head, and traveled with us to 
 
 their camp. . , . u ■ . 
 
 Sooa after ascending and winding round this barren riJJge, 
 we crossed a ravine, one or two rods in width, upon the snow, 
 which terminated a short distance below the trail, and extended 
 np to the top of Mount Homl. We then went around the 
 mountain for about two miles, crossing several strips of snow, 
 until we came to a deep kanyon or gulf, cut out by the wash 
 from the mountain above us. A precipitate cliff of rooks, at 
 the head, pitsvented a passage around it. The hills were of 
 the same material as that we had been traveling over, and were 
 
 very steep. ... m. 
 
 I judged the ravine to be three thousand feet deep. The 
 manner of descending is to turn directly to the right, go xig- 
 zag for about one hundred yards, then turn short round, and 
 go zigzag until you come under the place where you started 
 from ; then to the right, and so on, until you reach the base. 
 In the bottom is a rapid stream, filled with sand. After cross- 
 ing, we ascended in the same manner, went round the point 
 of a ridge, where we struck another ravine; the sides of this 
 were covered with grass and whortleberry bushes. In this 
 ravine we found the camp of our friends. We reached them 
 about dark ; the wind blew a gale, and it was quite cold. 
 
 Octobtr 12. After taking some refreshment, we ascended 
 the mounUin, intending to head the deep ravine, in order to 
 aaoerUin whether there was any gap in the mountain aouth of 
 as, which would admit of a pass. From this peak, we over- 
 looked the whole of the mountains. We followed up the 
 Bassy ridge for one mile and a half, when it became barren. 
 y two (nends began to lag behind, and show signs of fatigue; 
 they finally 8topped,and contended that we could not get round 
 the head of the ravine, and that it was useless to attempt an 
 aaeent. fiat I was cf a different opinion, and wished to goon. 
 They eonsented, and followed for half a mile, when thny sat 
 down, and requested me to go up to the ledge, and, if we could 
 effect a passage up and get round it, to give them a signal I 
 did so, and foood that by climbing up a cliff of snow and ice, 
 for about forty feet, but not so steep but that by gettinp; upon 
 one cliff, and eotting holes to stand in and hold on by, it could 
 be ascended. I gave tho signal, and they came op. In tht 
 
 MHiWUM 
 
 wmm 
 
 
 t 
 
w 
 
 JOURNAL or TRAVSIJS OVER 
 
 mean time. I had cut and camd my way up the clUT, and 
 "hen up to the top wa. forced to admit that it wm aomething 
 ^f an unCrUkingf buta. I h«l arrived "ff *\,^; »»P; .^^ 
 cliff, I doubted not but they could accompliah the •«»•<•«• 
 and aa my moccMina were worn out, and the aole. of "X f**} 
 Mooaed to the anow, I waa diapoeed to be traveling, and lo left 
 Zm toleVup the beat way'uie/ could. After proceedmg 
 about one mil. upon the snow, continual y wmdmg «p J beptn 
 to deanair o' aeeing my companiona. I came to where u lew 
 ietaS piece. ofVk had fallen from ^h' ledge a*.o^^^^^^^ 
 rolled down upon the ice and ano-v. (for the who e masa i» 
 more like ice ttan anow;) I clambered upon one of theae, and 
 wautd half an hour. I tU rolled atone, down th« m.«nUin 
 for half an hour; but a. I could Me nothing of "J V^o fr «»d.. 
 I beean to .u.pect that they had gone back, and croaaed in the 
 raT I then went round to the .outn^sMt «de, contmuBny 
 a.cendlng, and taking an obaervation of the country -outh, "d 
 wa. fully of '.he opinion that we could find a paaaage through.^ 
 The water, of thi. deep ravine, and of numerou. r»vme. to 
 the north-weat, a. well ^ the .outh-weat, form the head, of 
 Sfg Sandy and Quickaand rirsr.. which empty nto the C^u,™; 
 5a. about twenty-five or thirty mile, beluw the Caacade Fri^.. 
 I could aee down thia .tream aome tweWe or fifteen mile., 
 where the view wa. ob.tructed by a high ^K* ^""1? 7»^J 
 fVom the north-weat .ide, conneciinjr by a low gap ^'^ 'Ofno 
 of the apur. from thi. peak. All Oieae .tream. wereTunmng 
 through '"Oh deep cha.m.,that itwa. i™PO«««'le to paa- them 
 with team.. To the .outh, were two range, of mounUin., 
 TonneSTng by a low «.p with thi. peak, and ^ndinj round 
 until they terminated near B15 Sandy. I obwtved that a 
 Sm, heading near the b..e oT thia peak and running south- 
 
 . The opinion he^tofo« enteHwned, «»«**» P*V«^J;'J^^»'TS 
 to iti rommit, I fonnd to be erroneoM. I. bowew. ^^ •^« ^^ 
 hiJw DMk; bat went luiBcienily near to pnwe iu pwctJeabUi^. I judge 
 ti^^^T^v^^^t^ poiufiria* the ■nowreawn. the ymt 
 
 Zakutor^of rodu. eppwenrty «^e«l thou-nd feM high; wdm 
 S^ JXU Xc em »i- « pwdpitately tothej.mmrt.diatap«,y 
 ^nlblmpwcticMe. lA^k theioathem«de.flW.1heeMtort««Mrf. 
 T^^ik •tnp* obeemMe from a dirtwce, are oooanoned tar bhekwh rocfc, 
 J^t^MtaTu^^^i^ of the «.ow lying upon it , '«>•«»* •»»«• 
 SeTSS^!^ «Hi -em to be of -^^^'^-JS^ ^ ^ 
 iofi*. but any «/ ))»e anow perfta upon Ihle »Bg» cm »» •f*W? " '^ 
 
 Mcuflit. 
 
Jim.*. 
 
 THE HOOKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 71 
 
 up the cliff, and 
 it WM itomething 
 r at the top of the 
 ih the lame taak, 
 I tolaa of my feet 
 veling, and lo leil 
 After proceeding 
 nding up« 1 began 
 le to where £ few 
 9 ledge above and 
 he whole masa i« 
 one of these,' and 
 »wn the m-untain 
 )f my two friends, 
 md crossed in the 
 , side, continually 
 ountry south, and 
 passage through.* 
 imerous ravines (o 
 arm the heads of 
 ity -nto the Colum- 
 Ihe Cascade Falls. 
 i or fifteen miles, 
 [nge coming rouiid 
 ow gap wiih some 
 tams were Tunning 
 ssible to pass them 
 ges of mountains, 
 nd winding round 
 I observed that a 
 and running south- 
 
 I eonld not be aioended 
 ir, did not arrive at the 
 praetkabUiljr. I judge 
 ■MwreimiiM the yeax 
 ' <rf the ta^inee, ere pw» 
 ind feet high; and in 
 iummit,l]tatapaMag» 
 gbtdetheewfaet aMent. 
 noned Iw bteekiih rock, 
 nit 'JPhe upper itimta 
 imwiiaa. Then ie no 
 eaajM afCSftW to the 
 
 east for sevetai miles, there appeared to turn !o the west. This 
 I judged to be the head waters of Claokamia, which empties 
 into the Willamette, near Oregon city 5 but the view waa hid 
 by a high range of mountains putting down in that itireotion. 
 A low gap seemed to conr.eet this stream, or some other, head- 
 ing in this high range, with the low bottoms immediately under 
 tlie base of this peak. I waa of the opinion that a pass might 
 be found between this peak and the firat range of mountains, 
 by digging down some of the gravel hills 1 and if not, there 
 would be a chance of passing between the firat and second 
 ranges, through this gap to the branch of Claokamis ; or, by 
 taking some of the rangea of mounUins and fJ!o«v:ng tnera 
 down, could reach the open ground near the 'Willamette, as 
 there appeared to be spurs extending m that direction. I 
 eould also see a low gap in the direction from where we 
 crosBod the small branch, coming up the creek on the lllh, 
 towards several einsdl prrtiries aouth of ua. It appeared, that 
 if we could get a road opened to that pinee, onr cattle could 
 range about these prairies until waoould find a pusage for the 
 remainder of the way. 
 
 The day waa getting far advanced, anu we ma no provis- 
 ions, save each of us a small biacuit ; and knowing that we 
 had at least twenty-five miles to travel, before reaching those 
 working on the road, I hastened down the mountain. I had 
 no difficulty in finding a passage downj hut I saw some deep 
 ravines and crevices in tlie ioe which alarmed me, as I was 
 compelled to travel over them. The snow and ioe hod melted 
 underneath, and in many places had left but a thin shell upon 
 the surface; some of them had fallen in and presented hideous 
 looking caverns. I was soon out of dan||[er, nnd upon the eaat 
 side of the deep ravine I saw my two frienda slowly winding 
 their way up the mountain. They had gone to the foot of the 
 le^, and as they wore boots, and wore much fatigued, they 
 abandoned the trip, and returned down the mountain to the 
 trail, wheie I joine<l them. We there rested awhile, and struck 
 our course for one of the prairies which we had seen fifom the 
 mountain. On our way we eame to a beautiful spring of 
 water, aurrounded with fine timber j the ground waa cov- 
 ered with whortle berry bushes, and many of them hanging 
 full of fruit, we halted, ate onr bisoult, gathered berries, and 
 then proceeded down the mountain. 
 
 After traveling about ten miles, we reached the prairie. It 
 was covered with graac, and wts very weu A red Mdiment 
 
 i 
 
n 
 
 JOURNAL OP TRAVELS OVER 
 
 of about iwo inoliet in depth covered tlie aurface of the grounj 
 in tl)e ffWM, Mch a« if found around mineral iprtnga. A 
 beautiful clear atream of water waa running through the prtirie, 
 in a aoulh-east direction. We had aeen a prairie about two 
 milea further aouth, much larger than thiB,wJach we iuppoaed 
 to be dry. We now loolj our course fer camp, inieading to 
 •trike through the gap to the mouth of the email branch; but 
 we failed in finding the right .At*/«, and came out into h« 
 bottom, three miles above where we had firat .truck the cattle 
 or Indian trail. We then took down *« bottom, and arrived 
 in camp alwut eleven o'clock at night; and although not often 
 tired. I waa willing to acknowledge that i was near being lo. 
 I certainly wa. hungry, but my condition was ho much better 
 than that of my two friends, that I could not murmur. Our 
 parly had worked the road up to the sraaU branch, where they 
 
 * oVurmoming of the 13th of October we held a consuU 
 •ation. and determined upon the future roovem*nU of the 
 eomoany. The party designated to bring us provisions had 
 r«rformed that service ; but the amount of our proviaions was 
 f «arly exhausted, and many of the party had no "»«•««• «f P'<>; 
 coring more. Some of them began to despair of getung through 
 ,ni8 season. Those left with the camp were unable to keep 
 he cattle together, and a number of them had bean losu ine 
 Indians had stolen several horses, and a variety of mishaps 
 occurred, such as would necessarily follow from a company so 
 long remaining in one position. They were now on a sma^l 
 cref k, five miles from Stony hiU. which we called Camp c«ek. 
 and near the timber. U was impossible to keep more than 
 one third of the men working at the road ; the remainder were 
 needeil to attend the camp and pack provwions . It was deteiv 
 mined to send a party and view out the road. Uirough to tb^ 
 opercounlry. nw the mouth of Clackamis, whiUi «'« oUw« 
 were to open the road as far as the big prairie ; a number sut 
 ficient to bring up the teams and loose catd^ {ht a number of 
 families with Uieir catue had joined since ours left, *^P»J^ 
 of our company did not send their loose catUe.) to » grassy 
 prairie in tliis bottom, and n tr the mouth of this creek, as the 
 Sme required to pack provi., ...-. to those *o'k«« «» *• '^J 
 would be saved. All bei-v? arranged, the next thing was to 
 designate the person* to go ahead of the oarty, «id if found 
 practiesble to return wrh ;,.rovisions and help ; or at aU evenU 
 to MCWUln whether ;■ ,? route were practtcaWe. 
 
JU^ 
 
 ice of lh« grountl 
 jral tpring«. A 
 rough ihc prairie, 
 ruirie about two 
 licii we ■uppoaed 
 mp, inunding to 
 mall branch; but 
 line out into the 
 t Btruck the cattle 
 ittom, and arrived 
 Jthough not oAen 
 as near being lo. 
 • DO much iMtler 
 It murmur. Our 
 anch, where tiiey 
 
 re held a coniuU 
 lovem^nts of the 
 M proviaions had 
 ur proviaions was 
 i no means of pro- 
 of getting through 
 re unable to keep 
 id been Inau The 
 ariety of mishaps 
 rom a company ao 
 re now on a small 
 sailed Camp creek, 
 to keep more than 
 lie remainder were 
 me. It was deter- 
 ad, through to the 
 I, whilst the oUiers 
 rie ; a sumber suC- 
 i, (Cor a number of 
 rs left, and portions 
 Battle.) to a grauy 
 >f this creek, as the 
 rorking on the road 
 next thing was to 
 party, and if found 
 lip ; or at all evenU 
 able. 
 
 TMlt ROCKY MOIJNTAIN*. 
 
 7t 
 
 It was determined that I should undertake this trip. I 
 uked only one man to accompany me. We touk our blankets, 
 a limiled auppty of proviaiuna, and one light axe, and at eight 
 o'clock in the morning act out. 1 was satitfimi ihat the creek 
 which we were (hen on, headed in the low gap, seen from Mount 
 Houd; and the party were to open tlio ruad up tiiia branch. 
 But as I was to precede then I passed up thia creek for about 
 eight or ten mile*, when I disco <)red the low gap, went through 
 it, and at noon arrived at the wet ,)ruirie, which we had visited 
 the day before. The route waa practicable, but would require 
 great Iub4>r to remove the timber, nnd cut out the underbrush. 
 
 We halted at the creek and took aome rerreshment; we then 
 atruck for the low gap between the first rang? of mountains 
 running west, and di« liase of Mount Hood, and traveled (hro-Jgh 
 swamps, small prairies, brush, and heavy timber for about 
 twelve miles, when we found the labor necessary to open a 
 wsgon road ir '.is direction, to be greater than we could pos- 
 sibly bestow upon it before the rainy s<>ason. We determined 
 to try some other route, retraced our irteps six or seven miles, 
 and then bore to tiie right, around the base of the mountain, 
 when we atruck into an old Indian Uail. This we followed 
 for seven or eight miles, Uirough the gap I had seen from 
 Mount Hood. It is a rolling bottom of about four or five miles 
 in width, and extending from the base of Mount Hood sovth 
 for ten or twelve miles. The trail wound around the mountain, 
 but as its coarse was about that we wished to travel, we fol- 
 lowed it until it ran out at tlie top of the mountain. We then 
 took the ridge we«>t, and traveled until dark : but as the moon 
 shone bright, and the timber w&s not very thick, we turned an 
 angle down the mountain to the left, to procure water. We 
 traveled about three miles, and struck upon a small running 
 branch ; tliis we followed, until owing to the darkness, we were 
 compiled to encamp, mnch fatigued, and somewhat disheart* 
 ened. 
 
 October U. At daylight we were on the way. My moc- 
 casins, which the night before had received a pair of soles, in 
 yesterday's tramp had given way, and in traveling after night 
 my feet had been badly snsgged, so that I waa in poor plight 
 for walking ; but aa there was no alternative, we started down 
 the mountain, and afier traveling a few miles I felt quite well 
 and waa able to take the lead. We traveled about three miles, 
 w.ien we struck a large creek which had a very rapid current, 
 over • stony bottom. I htid hoped to find a bottom of suffi- 
 7 
 
 
« 
 
 JOtBHAt OF TKAVBLB OVWI 
 
 cwnt Width to «rfmit of •. wigon xmA, but .ft.r fonowing down 
 S .^.m .ir mile. I w.. »ti.fi«d that it would not do to 
 
 that the •irwme «>•<» to «n .larrrung height, and I *." ""•'^'^ 
 Ja if wo^S«.d the branch of L D- hut... which he«W 
 n Mount Hood, and the rainv .eaaon set in. we could not ge 
 lack and to get forward would be equally impoaaAle; ao Jat 
 in .Uher e»rnt aUrvation would be the retult. And a. 1 had 
 Ln/erylXe in inducing other, to embark in the .nterpr,.e. 
 ^y con2ieCe would not allow me go on and thu. cndangr 
 
 E^ri,ri:iouni";cJ.« 
 
 n»nant camo. build a cabin, put m auch effecu a. we coma 
 not Swk outf and leave our wagon, and eff«5t. in the rha-g. 
 ;? aome peraon. until we couiJ return the n*«t ••••o" T n- 
 cumbered with our faroilie. and c-.Oe. and finiah the road ,— 
 OT othemiM io return to the Dalle, with «)?«.««*r'*»»7. '* 
 Tw leave our bag«ge in charge of ^« ™JJJ»;^7„|S'* *S 
 de»:end the Colu^ia. And when "X »"J !»" ^""V "»•'*'' 
 up, we were not long in c»fry«« '» into exeeouon. 
 
 We acoordlnfflylacended the mounUm, «* It WM better 
 travel S.ain'i.e bottom. The dUt«.c« to tl« jrummU 
 wai about four mUea, and the way w« «.met.me. •«•!««?»- 
 to render it neceewry to puU up by the bu.he.. We then 
 SaHw e»t unUl w7re.ched the eartem point of th« mo^n- 
 tSn Md dTacendcd to the bottom, the baae of which we had 
 friveSS the diy before. We then .truck for the trad. «»on 
 f3h;a«d foUowed it unUl it led u. to "Jie Muthem end of 
 the wet p«irie. We then .truck for the lower gap m the 
 diction o?th" camp. croMod over and de.cend«i the branch 
 STe!r"t. momSThe.* we found four of our company d«r. 
 iJ±l road, the remainder having returned to Camp creek for 
 t!f m. Bnl a. we had traveled about fifty mde. thi. day, I 
 waa unable to reach the camp. 
 
 (SerU. Thi. morning we aU rtartwl for camp, carry- 
 
 •HMM 
 
 wfwa 
 
r rollowing down 
 would not do U> 
 
 r for monllii, had 
 the morninff the 
 emed to indicnla 
 \ni time to falter, 
 D puraue. 1 had 
 d in October, and 
 ind I was aenaiblfl 
 «a, which headed 
 we could not ge'i 
 spoaaible ; ao that 
 lit. And as I had 
 i in the enterpriaet 
 md thua endanger 
 I to them the diffi- 
 y of taking aome 
 srefore Tf 'oWed to 
 >le place for a por- 
 flfecta aa we could 
 fecta in the rhatige 
 next aeaaon, unin- 
 finiah the road ;— 
 r teame, where we 
 Miooariea, and then 
 iod waa fuHy made 
 leution. 
 
 I, aa it WM better 
 lee to tlie aummit 
 aetimea ao ateep aa 
 buahea. We then 
 point of thia inoun> 
 B of which we had 
 L for the trail, aoon 
 Jie aoQthem end of 
 t lower gap in the 
 lacended the branch 
 our company dear- 
 d to Camp creek for 
 |\y milea thia day, I 
 
 tad for camp, carry- 
 
 .aMC 
 
 THB tOCKY MOUNTAINIi 
 
 n 
 
 nif with ua onr tnola and provisioni. We reached euvnp about 
 two P. M. Many of our calUe could not be found, hue before 
 night nearly all were brought into camp. The whole n;atter 
 was then laid before tlie company, when it wns agreed that we 
 should remove over to the bottom, near the small creek, and 
 if the weather was unfavorable, leave our baggage and wagons, 
 and pack out the families as aoon aa poasible. But na aome 
 were out of provisions, it wss important that a messtnger 
 ahould be sent on ahead for provisions, and horses to assist 
 in packiiiff out. Mr. RulTum, and lady, concluded to pack out 
 wIvM articles they could, and leave a man to Uk« charge of 
 the teama and cattle, until he returned with other horses. He 
 kindly furnished me with one of his horses to ride to the set- 
 tlement He also supplied the wife of Mr. Thompson with 
 I horse. Mi. Barlow and Mr. Rector made a proposition to 
 continue working the road until the party could go to and 
 return from the valley ; they agreeing to insure the safety of 
 the wagona, if compelled to remain through the winter, by 
 being paid -x certain per cent, upon the valuation. This pro- 
 position waa thought reaaonable by some, and it waa partiallr 
 agreed to. And as there were aome who had no hnraes wiUi 
 whioh to pack oat their families, they started on foot for the 
 valley, deaigning to look out a road aa they passed along. 
 Some men in the mean time were to remain with the camp, 
 which aa above atated was to be removed to the small branch 
 on Shutea' fork; and those who intended pushing out at once, 
 cook) follow up it to the Indian trail. Thia all being agreed 
 upon, arrangementii were made accordingly. 
 
 October 16. The morning was "lowering, with every indi« 
 ration of rain. Messrs. Barlow and Rector atarted on the 
 trip. AU handa were making arrangemenU fur moving the 
 camp. In the mean time Mr. Buifum and hia lady, and Mrs. 
 Thompson, were ready to start. I joined them, and we again 
 set out for the settlement. We had traveled about two milea 
 when it commenced raining, und continued raining alighdy all 
 day. Wa eieamped on the bottom of Shutes' fork, near the 
 amijl branch. It rained nearly all night. 
 
 On the morning of the 17th October aAer our horaea had 
 filled thamaelvea, we packed up and atarted. It was still rain, 
 ing. Wa followed up thia bottom to the trail, and then pur- 
 aued die trail over Mount Hood. Whilst going over this 
 mountain the rain poured down in torrents, it was foggy, and 
 vary eoU. Wa trrivad at tha deep itivinu at about four I*. M.« 
 
 a 
 
n 
 
 Ht; nMAI- or T1»AV«UI OVB» 
 
 «nil ht(on wt ••p-ndf.l tl.« o,.po.iie hnnk it win lUrkj ^« 
 w« fflU our way ov.r ihe ri.lR.% .»a round ih« point m lh« 
 ffrnwy nm. »»'re wai graiiu« lor o.ir ured lior«t, wid wt 
 a,.niounled. Upon Ui« lidr ol Hit m.mnUin. where *f re • 
 fiiw eceiuirin* ttefl*. we found eome limbe iind •ticke, wiui 
 which we .uccede.! in «e.ung . liiUe Bre. We th«" «»•"*» » 
 few etirke aid conalructrd a u>ni, cov«in<r u with hiankeii. 
 which nrolecied our ba,j(^a«e «»d the two women. M'. Uuf- 
 fumand myaelf aluod •h.vering in the ram art.und t»,e Br'. ••»» 
 when dayiight appeared, it gave u. an "PP"'*""'']^, l".^*;.^ 
 each olliera- lank v.angei. Our horew were •»»«"»« *'J 
 the cold, the rain had put out our lire, and it aeemed •• «J«"fJ 
 e»ery thing had combined to reiuJer ua iniaerable. Alter uri- 
 vinir our horaee round awhile, they eommenced eating; but 
 we had reiy Hide to cat, and rerf .jI troubled much lu 
 
 ''°°Ot!ober 18. Aa aoon aa otir hortea had eatiefled themeeUee 
 we packed up and aecfnded the mountain over the ridge, ami 
 for two milea winding around up and down ofer a rough aor- 
 SSe ;^ov«ed w.th grm. The rain waa falling in torrenU,. -nd 
 it waa »o foggy that we could barely eee ^le trail. We at 
 length went down a ridge two milea. when "• '>«»J.""« ^^'jf 
 der^ in the thick buah.a. The trail had entiwly diaappeared. 
 We could go no further. The two wom.m aat up«i th^r 
 hoiaca in the rain, whilat I went back to MMirch .or tht right 
 trail; Buffum endeavoring to mnko hia waj do-»n the moun- 
 Uin. 1 rambled alwut two inilca up the mountain, wn«f« « 
 found the rixht trail, and immediately returned to infonn them 
 of it. Buffum hiid relumed, and of courae had not founa th« 
 UaU. V.'e then aacended the mountain to the Uiil, wlien • 
 breeze aprung up and cleared away Uie fog. We culd 4ien 
 
 '°"we aoonww a large bjnd of eaiUe coining up the moan\Mm 
 and in a abort time met a party of men following them. I hey 
 had »tarU)d from tlie Dallea about eight daya before, and en 
 camped that night four or five milea below, and aa it waa a 
 TaS alt, their cnille h.a atrayed to the tnounUm to g«l 
 irraaa. But what was very gmtifying, they informed ua that a 
 Saity of men from Oregon eity, with proviaiona for our com 
 Lny had encamped with them, and were then at their camp. 
 We hastened down the mountain, and in a few hours arnwa 
 «t the camp. But imagine our feelinga when we Ujamed ttal 
 those having provUijna for us, had despaired of finding os, Md 
 
 /? 
 
T 
 
 it WM dark ; ba« 
 
 ilifl point to the 
 
 J hur«rf, wid wt 
 
 ,in, where mttt • 
 
 Hnd itklit, with 
 
 W« than fojnd t 
 
 It with blanket*, 
 
 amen. Mr. Uuf- 
 
 rtiund t)i« fire, and 
 
 irlunity U» l«H)k et 
 
 sre ihiferinif with 
 
 M-emed m thouf h 
 
 ertble. After dri- 
 
 enced eating; but 
 
 (roublfld much in 
 
 ■tieflod thameeWet 
 ver the ridge, and 
 o»er a rough ear- 
 iimi in lorrenta. and 
 «he irail. We at 
 >re bMame bewil- 
 itirely diaappeared. 
 Uin aat upon their 
 uirch for tht right 
 I' do'jrn the moun* 
 mou.'^tain. where I 
 ned to infonn ttiem 
 had not found th« 
 ) the Uail, when a 
 r. We crtuld iiian 
 
 ng up the mountain. 
 I wing Ihem. They 
 lya before, and en 
 w, and aa it waa a 
 ie mountain to get 
 r informed na that a 
 iaiona for our com 
 then at their camp. 
 a few hoar* arrived 
 hen we learned that 
 red of finding oa, aad 
 
 /? 
 
 
 TUB lloaiY MOUNTAINS Tf 
 
 hating already h«pn out lon)i;«Tth«n wintipirted.h.id returne«l 
 to the aetUanient, carrying with ihoni all »lie provi»ion«, •**e 
 whii they had dialrihuUtl to thene men. We wnro wet, culd, 
 and ! tingry, ami would not be likely lo overtake tliein. We 
 pre**ile«i upon una ol the men whom we found at the camp, 
 to mouiu one of our horiMJii, nnd follow lliem. lie waa abaeMt 
 •bout ten mmul«, when he returned and informed ua that they 
 were coming. They aoon made their appearance. Thia re- 
 viv«l B», and for awhile we forgot that we were wet and cold. 
 They had gone about *ix mile* b»ck, when eonie good apirtt 
 induced tliem lo return to camp, and ni«ke one more effort to 
 And aa. The camp waa half a mile from the creek, and we 
 had nothing but two amall coflV*i-p«u, and a few tin cupa, lo 
 c«rry wal*r in ; but thia waa inding, aa the rain waa atiil pour- 
 ing down upon ua. We apeeddy made a good fire, and aet to 
 work making a tent, whieli we aoon aecompiiahed, and the two 
 women prepared ua a good aupper of bread and coffee. It waa 
 t rainy night, but we were aa comforUble aa the riiroumitancea 
 would admit. 
 
 Oeiobtr l». After breakfaat, the drovera lell ua; nnd aa 
 
 the party which had brought ua nroviaion* had been lonjjer out 
 
 than had been ronieni plated, Mr. Stewart and Mr. Otlmorv 
 
 wiahed tT return. It waa determined that Mr. Buff'^ru, ihi 
 
 two female*, Mr. Stewart, and Mr. N. Oilmore, •houJ go on 
 
 to the aetUement, and that Mr. C. Gdmore. and the Indinn 
 
 who had been aent along to aa*i*t in drliriii the horee*, and 
 
 myaelf, ahould haaten on with the proviaior,* to the camp. 
 
 We were aoon on the way, and climbing up the mountain. 
 
 The home* were heavily loaded, and in many placea the 
 
 mountain waa very elipperv, and of courae we hid great diffi- 
 
 oollv in getting along. It waa atill raining heavily, and the 
 
 fop *o thick that a person could not aee more than fifteen feet 
 
 aro.nd. We traveled about two roilea up the mounUin, when 
 
 we found that whilat it had been raining in the valley it had 
 
 been anowing on the mountain. The trail was ao covered 
 
 widi anow that it waa difficult to find it, and, to increWe our 
 
 diffleulty, the Indian refoaed to go any farther. We ahowed 
 
 him the whip, which increaaed hi* speed a liiUe, but he »oon 
 
 forgot it, waa very aulky, and would not aaaiat in driving. 
 
 We at length arrived at the deep ravine ; here there waa no 
 
 ■now, and we paaaed it without aerioua diflSculty. Two of 
 
 onr paoka coming off, and rolling down tho hill, waa the only 
 
 tio«bt« that we had. When we aaceoded the hill to 
 
^ JOUMAL OF -nUYW* «W«« 
 
 lh« tuUrn •ide of lh« gulf. w« fmind tli« inow much tWpeT 
 than upon Uifl wriU«rn iide ; bwide*. il hid drifuid, "nd ren- 
 dered «he puugi! over ihe elrip of the old •now eomewhU 
 <lengeroue, h in meny phcM the .ciion of the w.ujr h.d 
 n.elUNl Ihe enow upon ihe uniJer eide.end left i Ihin ehell o*jo» 
 the iurfece, end in eome plep«e liolee hed mell«l tlirou|h. 
 We were in denser of fulling into one of theee pile. ComiiHf 
 to one of iheifl ravmoe whrre the enow hwl drifted very much, 
 I diemounled in ord«r to pick a trail iliroiiKh. but liefore inie 
 WM completed, our horeee euirled down thn benk. I hid die- 
 covered two of Iheec piu, *nA na to heed the horeee end turn 
 them i but my riding horee etarted to run. end went direoUjr 
 Iwlween the two pitet hie weight jerred lh« emet looee.Md it 
 fell in, nreeenting > chaem of eome twentyhve or thirty feel 
 in depth, but the horee. being »ip.in the run. mede hie w;iy 
 •croee the pit The other hone; hearing the noiee end aeeing 
 the pita before thwn.toroed higher up, where the enow and lo«i 
 were thicker, and ail reached the oppoeite eide in eafety. 
 
 Our Indian friend now alopped. and endeavored to Uirn Uia 
 horaea back, but two to one wp an uneven game, and it wu 
 played to hie dinadvantege. He wanted an additional blanket; 
 thie I promieed him. and he conaented to go on. We eoon 
 met two Indian*, on their way from the Dallee to Oregon city; 
 our Indian convened with them awhde. and then informed ua 
 of hie intention to return with them. Whilet parleying with 
 him, a party of men from our camp came up the raounUIn 
 with their caltle; they had driven their teama to the email 
 branch of the De Shutee, twelve milee below the mountain, 
 where they had left the familiee,and aUrled out williilieir cat- 
 de before the atream ahould get too liiyh tooniee. Whilet we 
 were convening with theae men, our Indian had euoceoded in 
 setting one looee hone, and the one which he wae ndiiw, io 
 far from the band of pack-horeea that, in the fop, we could not 
 aee him, and he returned to the aeiUement with the two in- 
 
 diane we had juet met. u u^ -.- 
 
 Our horaea were very troubleeome to driw, «b they had «!• 
 nothing forthirtyaix houn; but we eucceeded in getung them 
 cm die enow, and down to the jrraeey ndge, whww wa 
 •topped for the night. My friend Gilmoro ahouUtored a bag 
 of flour, carried it half a mile down the mountain to a running 
 branch, opened the aacjt, pocied in water and miied up bread. 
 In the mean time, I had built a fir«. We wrapped the dough 
 axoand alicka and baked it before the fire, heated water iB out 
 
ow miir.h dMp«r 
 dnruNl, mml ren- 
 ■now •om«wh«l 
 f Ui« w>u<r had 
 a ihin •htll ovof 
 melttd tlirou|h. 
 c piu. Cominf 
 rifictl very mueh, 
 , but \Mon inw 
 tank. I had dia- 
 I hnraea and Uirn 
 nd went directly 
 :niat looa«, and it 
 live or thirty feet 
 1, made hie way 
 ) noine and aneing 
 the anow and icn 
 le in aarety. 
 vored to turn the 
 game, and it waa 
 dditional blanket; 
 on. We aeon 
 Bi to Oregon city; 
 then informed ua 
 It parleying with 
 up the mountain 
 ama to the email 
 )w the mounuin, 
 9Ut with tlietr cat' 
 roaa. Whilat we 
 had auoceeded in 
 he waa riding, lo 
 fog. we could not 
 with the two In> 
 
 «. »a they had at* 
 ed in getting them 
 ridge, wharu wa 
 > ahouUfered • bag 
 intain to a running 
 d mixed up breaii. 
 rrapped the dough 
 eatisd water in out 
 
 tmt wQcmr wwntaiw* ff 
 
 tin <'upi and mad« a good iliah of tea, and paaaed a very «>n»- 
 foriahla niglit. It had ceaand raining hnfore auniet, and the 
 morning waa clear and pleaaant) we forgot the paat, and 
 looked forward to a bright future. 
 
 OcUibtr W. At B o'clock we packed tip, took the trail 
 down the mountain lo the gravelly bottom, and thfn down the 
 creek to the wagon-camp, which we r»^arhe<l at 3 V. M. ; and 
 If we had not before forgotten our troublet, we ccrtninly ahould 
 have done ao upon arriving at camp. Heveral familiea were 
 entirely out of proviaiona, othera were nenrly ao, and all were 
 ex|)cctin^ to rely upon their poor famiahe<l catUe. True, thla 
 would have prevented atarvation; but it would have been 
 meagre di»!t, and there waa no certainty of having cattle long, 
 aa there waa but litde gmae. A hnppier aet of beinga I never 
 aaw. and the thanka beatowed upon ua by iheae familiea would 
 have compenaatcd for no litUe toil and hardahip. They were 
 aupplied wiih an amount of proviaiona auflHoient to laat them 
 until they could reach the aeldemenU. After waiting one day. 
 Mr. Oilmore left the camp for the aettlement, Uking with him 
 three familiea ; othera aUrted about the aame time, and in a 
 few daya all but three familiea had depnrled. Theae were Mr. 
 Btrlow'a, Mr. Rector'a, and Mr. Caplinger'a, all of whom 
 had gone on to the aettlement for lioraee. Ten men jet re- 
 mained at camp, and, after aelecting a auitable place for our 
 wagon-yard, we erected a cabin for the nto of those who were 
 to remain through the winter, and to atow away anch of our 
 efTecU aa wa could not pack out. Thia being done, nothing 
 remained but to ewait the return of ihone who had gone for 
 
 Gok horaea. We improved the time in hunting and gathering 
 rriea, untd the «fith, when four of ua, loaded with heavy 
 packa, atarled on foot for die valley of the Willamette. 
 
 But before entering upon thia trip. I will atate bv what 
 meana the timely aaaiatance afforded ua in the way of provi- 
 aiona waa effected. The flrat party atarting for the aetUement 
 from the Dallea, after we had determined to take the mountain 
 route, carried the neva to Oregon city that we were attempt- 
 ing a paaeage acro»« the Cascade mountaina, and that we 
 ahould naad proviaiona. The good people of that place im- 
 madialely raiaed by donation about eleven hundred pound* 
 of flour, over ona hundred pounde of augar. aome tea, Ac, 
 hired horaea, and the Mersra. Gilmore and Mr. Stewart 
 volunteered to bring theaa artielea to us. Tha only expense 
 «a wen «kad to defray waa the hir* of tha horsea. Tboy 
 
^ JOUENAL or TRAVBL8 OVER 
 
 belonged to an Indiin chief, and of coume he hud to be paid. 
 The hire wj^i about forty dollara, which brougiit the flour to 
 about four dollara per hundred, aa there were about one ihoua- 
 and pounds when they arrived. Thoae who had the mean* 
 paid at once, and those who were unable to pay gave their 
 due bills. Many of the familiea constructed pHokHwddlea and 
 put thero on oxen, and, in one insUnce, a Rather bed waa 
 rolled up and put upon an ox ; but llie animal did not aeem to 
 Uke his load, and ran into the woods* scattering the fenthera in 
 every direction : he waa finally secured, but not until the bed 
 was ruined. In most cases, the oxen performed well. 
 
 In tlie afternoon of the 25th October, accompanied by 
 Messrs. Creigliton, Farwell, and Buckley, I again atarted to 
 the valley. We had traveled but a abort diatance when w« 
 met Barlow and Rector, who haH been to the aeltlement 
 They had aome horses, and expected fthera in a ahort time. 
 Ihey had induced a few familiea whom tliey met near Mount 
 Hood to return with thera, and fry their chance back to the 
 Dalles ; but, ader waiting one day, tliey concluded to try the 
 mountain trip again. Wo traveled up the bottom to the trail, 
 where we encamped ; about this time, it commenced raiuing, 
 which continued through the night. 
 
 October 26. This morning at eight o'clock, we were on 
 the way. It was rainy, and dlaagrowble travilinp. We foU 
 lowed the trail over the main part of the mountain, when we 
 overtook several families, who had left ue on the twenty-second. 
 Two of the families had encamped the night before in Ihe bot- 
 tom of the deep ravine ; night overtook them, and they were 
 compelled to camp, without fuel, or grass for cattle or horses. 
 Water they bud in plenty, for it was poaring down upon them 
 all the night. One of their horses broke loose, and getting to 
 the provision sack, destroyed the whole eontenta. Thwre were 
 nine persons in the two families, four of them small ehUdran, 
 and it was about eighty milea to the neareat aetdorient. Th* 
 children, as well as the grown people, were ner/ly barefoot, 
 and poorly clad. Their names were Powell <Mi Sbnleie. 
 Another family by the name of Hood, had auoeeedea in getting 
 up the gravelly hill, and Ending gt»8 for their animals, and a 
 litde fuel, had ahared their scanty supply with these two fami- 
 lies, and wh«»o we overtook then they were ell encamped near 
 each other. We gave them about half of our arovieionB, and 
 tnasnped owr tbun. Mr. Hood kisd^y fiuoMMd «• win • 
 
THE ROCXir MOUNTAINS. 
 
 81 
 
 hiid to b« pniit. 
 \g\n the flour to 
 about on« ihuua* 
 } had th« mean* 
 I pny gave their 
 paok-suildles and 
 Rather bed waa 
 1 did not aeem to 
 i^g the Ten then in 
 not until the bed 
 med well, 
 accompanied by 
 again atorted to 
 iatance when we 
 > the aetdement. 
 I in a abort time. 
 ' met near Mount 
 tnoe back to the 
 eluded to try the 
 ottom to tb rail, 
 nmenoed .uiuiagt 
 
 lock, we were on 
 tvilinB. We fol« 
 ountain, when we 
 he twenty-«econd. 
 before in the bot* 
 im, and thev were 
 r rattle or boraea. 
 ( down upon them 
 Me, and getting to 
 mta. There were 
 m amall ehildren, 
 aetllopient. The 
 re neryly barefoot, 
 irell «>na S'jnteie. 
 loeeedea in getting 
 leir animal*, and a 
 tth theae (wo fami* 
 tXi encamped near 
 )ur Broviaiona, and 
 maiahad «»wiih • 
 
 wagon cover, with which we conatnicted a tent, under which 
 
 we reaied for tJie night. . , , , .. • 
 
 October 27. The two families who had loat their provi- 
 ■ions succeeded in finding a heifer that belonged to one of the 
 companies traveling in advance of us. In rambling upon the 
 rocky cliffs above the trail for grass, it had fallen down the 
 ledge, and was so crippled as not to be able to travel. Ihe 
 owner* had left it, and as the animal was in good condition, 
 it wa* slaughtered and the meat cured. 
 
 After traveling four miles through the fresh snow, (which 
 had fallen about four inches deep during the night,) we came 
 to where the trail turned down to the Sandy. We were glad to 
 
 Et out of the enow, as we wore moccasin*, and the bottom* 
 ing worn off, our feet were exposed. Two mile* brought 
 us to where we left the Sandy, and near the place *"'»« J« 
 met the party with provisions; here we met Mr. Buffum.Mr. 
 Lock, and a Mr. Smith, with fourteen pack-horses, going for 
 effeuU to Fort Deposit— the name which we had given our 
 
 •I^ie numerous herd* of catde which had passed along had 
 •o ate up the grass and bushes, that it wa* with great difficulty 
 the horses could procure a sufficiency to sustain life. Among 
 the rest, wa* a horse for me; and as I had a few artwles at 
 the fort, Mr. Buffum was to take the horse along and pack 
 them out Two of hia horses were so starved a* to be unable 
 to climb the r^oimtoina, and we took them back with u*. The 
 weather by thi* time had cleared up; we separated, and eacb 
 party took it* way. . , 
 
 A abort distance below this, our trad united with one which 
 BtarUng from the Dalles, runs north of Mount Hood, and until 
 thi* *ea8on wa* the only trail traveleu by the whites. We 
 proceeded down the Sandy, crossing it several times, through 
 Uiieket* of *pmce and alder, until we amved at the fork*, 
 which were about fifteen mile* from the base of Mount Hood. 
 The bottom of the Sandy i* *imilar to the branch of De Shule* 
 which we aacended; but in moat ca*es the gravel and stone* 
 are covered with mos*; portions of it are entirely deetilute of 
 vegetation. The mountain* are very high, and are moatly 
 eovered with timber. At a few ;oint* are ledge* ol grayish 
 lock, but the greater part of the mountain i* composed of *and 
 and gravel; it is much csut up by deep ravine*, or kanyon*. 
 The trail i* aometime* very difficult to fi^ow, on acoouai 
 of (ha brash and iogat »bou( our camp are a few btioohM of 
 
 ■«ai 
 
1.1 ■ [|l>r".fM.' 
 
 i 
 
 m 
 
 - %v.. 
 
 ^ JOXTKSAh or TRAVELS OVEB 
 
 brtkeft, which the horses eat greedily. The itwarn coining in 
 from the south-cast i- ihe one which I foUowed down on the 
 Uth, and from appearance I came within five miles of the 
 forks. The bottom in this vicinity is more than a mile wide, 
 and is covered with apruae, hemlock and alder, with a variety 
 
 of small bushes. , ^ , ■ ._„.i.w« 
 
 October 28. We started early, and after havmg traveled 
 several miles, found a pa*ch of good grase, where we halted our 
 horses for an hour. We then traveled on. crosaing the Sandy 
 three times. This is a rapid stream ; the water is cold, and 
 the bottom very stony. We made about fifteen or sixteen 
 miles only, as we could not get our horses along faster. We 
 struck into a road recenUy opened for the passage of w«gons. 
 Mr. Taylor, from Ohio, who had left our company with hia 
 family and cattle on the 7th, had arrived safely in the valley, 
 and had procured a party of men and had sent them into th« 
 mountains to meet u» at the crosaing of Sandy, fhey had 
 come up thia far, and commenced cutting the toad toward Uie 
 aetdements. After traveling this road five or six roUea we came 
 upon their ct. ; where we again found •omething «• eat; our 
 proviaioaa havu,g been all consumed. The roafl here runa 
 through a flat or bottom of several miles m width, and extend, 
 ing ton or twelve milea down the Sandy; it bear, towards the 
 north, whilst the creek forme an elbow to the south. The 
 ■oil is good, and is covered with a very heavy growth of pine 
 and white cedar a..>ber. I saw some trees of white cedar Uiat 
 were seven feet in diamet^T, and at leaat one hundred and fifty 
 feet high. I measured eevt-al old treea that had Men, wluch 
 were one hundred and eighty feet in leagtli, and about six feet 
 
 in diameter at the root. We ?"»«» «T u°""kCT ^. 
 several beautiful streams, which meandered through w>^^' 
 The irround lies sloping to the south, as it la on the north «d« 
 of the creak. In the evening it commenced raming a litUe. 
 We remained at this camp aU night. . . .. 
 
 October 29. This morning, after breakfast, we parted with 
 our friends and pursued our way. We soon a»c«nded a rid^ 
 which we foUowed for seven or eight miles, alternately praine 
 and fern openings. In these openings the timber is not laig^ 
 but grows rather scrubby. There are ntt«»«"H»« «"'^"jf 
 beautiful pine Umber, tall and straight The aoil » of a rrf 
 dish cast and very mellow, and I think would produce well. 
 We came to the termination of this ridge and descended to tt» 
 bottom, whieh has hmi cowred with heavy timber, but which 
 
 MM 
 
THE EOCKV MOONTAlNi. 
 
 89 
 
 ito«am coming in 
 wed down on the 
 Sve miles of the 
 ihan a mile wide, 
 Bf, with a variety 
 
 r having traveled 
 lere we halted our 
 ■ouing the Sandy 
 water is cold, and 
 fifteen or sixteen 
 ilong faster. We 
 issage of wagons, 
 iompany with his 
 fely in the valley, 
 ent them into the 
 andy. They had 
 e road toward tlie 
 six miles we came 
 lethinff <o eat; our 
 le roatd here runs 
 triddi, and extflnd> 
 bears towards the 
 the south. Th« 
 vy growth of pine 
 }f white cedar that 
 I hundred and fifty 
 I had fallen, which 
 and about six feet 
 small prairies and 
 through the timber, 
 s on the north side 
 «d raining a little. 
 
 ast, we parted widl 
 )n ascended a rid(|e 
 . alternately praine 
 timber is not large, 
 iimerous groves of 
 he soil is of a red 
 Duld produce wdl. 
 ii descended to tiM 
 r timber, but whieb 
 
 has been killed by fire. From this ridge we could "O «'««1[ 
 others, of a similar appearante, descendmg gradually towards 
 
 *We*Vere crossed the creek or river, which was deep and 
 rapid ; and as our horses were barely able to carry themseWes, 
 we were compelled to wade the stream. Buckly had been 
 sick for several days, and not able to carry his P^'-k 5 ""d 'f «* 
 other times I regretted the necessity of being compelled to carry 
 his pack, I now found it of some advantage iii crossing the 
 stream, as it assisted in keeping me erect, buckly m attempt- 
 inff to wade across, had bo far succeeded as to reach the middle 
 of the sueam, where he svopped, and was about giving way 
 when he was relieved by Harwell, a •««>"« **«;•« yf"'^*! 
 from the state of Maine. In crownng a small bottom, one of 
 the horses fell; we were unable to raise him to his feet, and 
 were compeUed to leave him. The other we succeeded in 
 eetUnir to 6ie top of the hilU where we were also compelled to 
 Kave Tiim. The former died but the latter was taken in a few 
 days af\er by those who were opening the road. ATler being 
 relieved of the burthen of the two horses, we pushed forv?ard 
 on foot, as fast as Buckly's strength and our heavy packs 
 would allow; and as it had been raining all day, our pacU 
 wera of double their former weight. At dark we met a party 
 of men who had been through with a drove of cattle, and were 
 returning with pack horses for *« *h'f J"""'!'** * „™ 
 vet at Fort Deposit. We encamped with them. After cross- 
 ins the Sandy our course was south-west, over a rolling and 
 pilirie country. The prairie, as well as the timber l*nj, was 
 covered with fern. The soil was of a reddish cast, and very 
 mellow, as are all the ridges leading from die mountora to the 
 Willamette or Columbia river. We traveled this day sixteen 
 or seventeen miles. _ 
 
 October 80. This morning was rainy as usual. Four 
 mttes brought us to tht valley of the Claokamis, which was 
 here five Ir six mdee wide. The road was over a roUing 
 eountnr simUar to that we passed over on yesterday, fo the 
 leftof thetrwlwe saw • house at the foot of the hdl; we 
 made fbr it, aiid found eome of our friends who had started from 
 camp with C. GUmore. The daim was held by « «» n™ 
 McSwa'ii. We tarried here until the rooming of the 81st, 
 when we again started (oe Oregon city. Our trail ran for five 
 or six miles along the foot of the hUl, through p«ine and tins- 
 ber liod. The soU tooks good, but is rather intslkiedi© gravel ; 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 WHB*-' 
 
^ JOriBNAI. OP TRAVELS OVER 
 
 numercm streann flow down from the high ground, which 
 riMis gradually lo a rolling fern plain, surh as we traveled oyer 
 on the 28th, and 29lh. Wo then continued upon the high 
 ground aeven or eight milei, alternately through timber and 
 fsrn prairies. We then turned down to Clackamia bottom, 
 whicli is here about one mile wide; this we followed down 
 for three miles, when night overtook U8,r.nd we put up at Mr. 
 Halcho's, having spent just one month in the Cascade moun- 
 
 ^°Novtmber 1. '^Thit morning we left llatcheV, and in two 
 miles travel we reached the crossings of the Clackamia rivor. 
 At this point it is one hundred and fifty yard* wide- the banks 
 of gcnUe descent, the water wemling its way for the noble 
 Columbia over a pebblv bottom. Here U a vihage of about 
 twenty families, inhabited by th« Clackamis Indians, who are 
 few in number, apparently harmless, and caring for nothmg 
 more than a few fish, a little game, or suoh subsistence as is 
 barely sufficient to siippiMl lifa. There are but two or ihrea 
 houses in the village t^Uwy are made by setting up side and 
 centre posts in the grouud, the latter being the highest, to re- 
 ceive a long pole to uphold puncheons split out of cedar, which 
 form the covering; the sides are enclosed with the sama 
 material, in an upright position. These pujcheons are held 
 to their places by leather thong«, fastened around them to tho 
 poles that Uy upon the posts^^^After examining i.is httle com. 
 rounity, the remains of a once powerful a.id warlikr people, 
 we obtained the use of their canoes, crossed over the river, 
 and after two miles further travel we reached a point that had 
 long been a desired object; where we were to liave rest and 
 
 fefresluDeat, ... •■ > • « 
 
 We were Ww at the place destined at no aistant period 
 to be an important point in the commercial history of the 
 Union— Oregon City. Passiag through the timber that lies 
 to the east of the city, we beheld Oregon and the t alii, of the 
 Willamette at the same moine..t. We were so filled wiU. gra- 
 titude that we had reached the setUemenls of the white man, 
 •nd with admiration at the appearance of the large sheet ol 
 water rolling over the Falls, thct we stopped, and in ihw mo- 
 meat of happdiesa recounted oiw tods, in thought, wnh laon 
 rapidity than tongiie can express or pen write. Ite»e we 
 hastily scanned over Uie distance traveled, from point to point, 
 whkb we computed to be in miles u follows, via. From In- 
 4^fpuiaim l» Fort Utvem* «*» «n>l«» i *^«™» i'ort UrtaM 
 
 fBSiP 
 
"n 
 
 THE ROOKY KOUNTAIltA 
 
 85 
 
 I ground, which 
 we traveled over 
 
 upon the high 
 rtigh Umber and 
 lukamia bottom, 
 
 followed down 
 te put up at Mr. 
 
 Cascade mouD* 
 
 iheV, and in two 
 Dlackamis rivor. 
 
 wide- the banlii 
 ly for the nobla 
 
 village of about 
 Indians, who ar« 
 iring for nothing 
 subsistence as is 
 but two or ihre« 
 ling up side and 
 ie Highest, to re« 
 It of cedar, which 
 1 with the same 
 ;;ckeon8 are held 
 ound them to the 
 ng tl.is Uttle com> 
 I warlikr people, 
 1 over the river, 
 1 a point that had 
 1 to iiave rest and 
 
 no distant period 
 al history of the 
 i timber that lies 
 d the Falin of the 
 sofiUed witl. gra« 
 )f the white man, 
 the large sheet of 
 I, and in this mo< 
 iought, with jjoio 
 write. Here, w« 
 oro point to point, 
 «s, via . FrOBB In- 
 nun fort lmvm$ 
 
 to Fort Hall. 585 miles 5 from Fort Hall to Fort Bois, 881 
 miles; from Fort Bois to the D.lles. 306 miles { from the 
 Dalles lo Oregi.n City, (by the wagon route soutn of Mount 
 Hood,) 100 miles, raaki g the toUl distance from Indep .jdenct 
 to Oregon city, 1060 miles. Actual measurement wtU vary 
 these distances, most probably lessen them ; and it » very 
 certain, that by bridging the streams, the travel will bo much 
 shortened, by giving to it a more direct course, and upon 
 ground equally favorable for a good road. 
 
 Orkgon City. Wow at rest, having arrived at this place, 
 before entering upon a general description of tlte country, 1 
 will give a short acr- mt of Oregon city, as it appeared to me. 
 This town is loca«.. upon the east aide of the Willamette 
 river, and at the Falls. It is about thirty miles above the 
 iuaciion of the WUIamette with the Columbia, following the 
 meanders of the river; but, dirwUy from the Columbia at 
 Vancouver, it is only about twenty miles. It wm laid out by 
 Dr. M'Uughlin, in 1849, who holds a claim of sue hunflrea 
 and forty acres upon the east side of 1 « river. From the 
 river, upon this side, immediately at the Falls, there riaes » 
 rocky bluff of about eighty feet in height, which bears off to 
 the north-east. Passing down the river, the land lieeabout ten 
 fevit lower than the suriane of the water above the Falls. 1 hn 
 plsteau extends for about one-fourth of a mile, when there is a 
 fVirther descent of about fifteen fee^ from which a level and 
 fertUe bottom skirts the Willnmetia for a mile and a half, to 
 where the waters of the Claokamis are united with those ol 
 the Willamette. Upon the plateau, immediately below, ai.d a 
 small portion of the higher ground above the Falls, is the por- 
 tion ofhis grant, that Dr. McLaughlin has laid off in town lots. 
 Three years ago, this lund was covered with a dense forest, 
 which is BOW cleared off, to roiJte loom for the evMUon of 
 housea to accomroodate the inhabitanU of the iown. 
 
 There were aiready erected, when I left there, about one 
 hundrr-* bouses, most of them not only commodic»s, but neau 
 AoMHur fht public buildings, the moat conspicuous were the 
 aert IT ^ !• ; -hurnh, vyhioh is Itwated near the upper part of 
 the to n, i A » sj^ndid Catholic eliap«l. which stonds near 
 ^ ti jr . the bhitf bank at the lower part of the town site. 
 There . iwo grist miUs; one owned by M'Laa|hbn, hav- 
 ing three sets of bnhr runnsni, and wUl eompare well with 
 moat rf the mills m the Steteaj the other i» a smttUw Bull. 
 
 ' a 
 
 ■**'—. 
 
g^ JOURNAL OP TRAVFJ.A OVRK 
 
 owned by OoTernor Abernethy nnd Mr. Beer*. At each of 
 theio griit-milU there are also aaw-tnilN, which cut a greai 
 (leal ofplank for the use of emijfranta. There are four stores, 
 two taverns, one halter, one tannery, three tailor shops, two 
 cubinet-niJiliert, two * ilveramiths, one cooper, two blacksmiths, 
 one physician, three lawyers, one printing ofBce, (at which the 
 Oregon Spectator is printed, semi-monthly, nt five dollars ^er 
 annum,) one lath machine, and a good brick yard in active 
 operation. There arc also quite a number of carpenters, 
 masons, Ac, in constant employment, at good wages, in end 
 about this village. The population is computed at about six 
 h ,r,dred white inhabitants, exclusive of a few lodges of la- 
 >jlian«(. 
 
 The Indians spend most of their nights in gambling, fhey 
 have a game peculiar to tho tribes of the lower Columbia, and 
 8:1 1 have not sesn it described, I will mention it here.^^ Six 
 men meet in their lodge, when they divide among themselvei 
 into partners of three on eaci: side, then seat themselves, with 
 a pole between the parties; the middle man on one of the 
 sides has a small bone or stick which he holds in his hand; 
 his partners ttpon the loft and right keep up a regular knock- 
 ing upon the pole with sticks, and flinging of songs. The man 
 with the bone keeps shiftin^^ it as quioklv as possible from 
 hand to hand, to deceive the 'middle man of the opposite side, 
 as to vhich hand holds the bone; after he is satisfied, he stops 
 and inquires of his opponent in which hand he holds, it. If 
 the opponent guesses rightly, he throws the bone, with a small 
 pointed stick, to the winner, who goes through the same cere- 
 mony as the loser had done; but if the man guesses wrongly 
 as to the hand that holds the bone, be hands over a littls 
 pointed stick. Thus they keep it up tmtil one or the other 
 has won a certain number of pointed sticks, which they have 
 agreed shall constitute the game, when the stakes are delivered 
 over to the winning party .V^ So desperately attached to this 
 game are these savages, that they will gamble away eveiT; 
 specie] of olothinr or property they n*ay possess ; after \hw 
 their wives, and Uiey have been known to slake their own 
 services, for a cerUin number of moons, and sometimes even to , 
 become the slaves for life of Ae more fortunate gamesters. J 
 The Blorea have but a very limited supply of such arUeles at 
 emigrants need i but the present merchants, or other* that will 
 soon locate there, will find it to their interest to take out sueh 
 commoditi«3 aa will be required. Mr. Engle, who went out 
 
 I 
 
 
rt. At each of 
 lich cut u great 
 B arc four utorei, 
 nilor Bhopa, two 
 two blacksmiths, 
 ice, (at which the 
 It five (lollaH per 
 ( yard in active 
 r of carpenter*, 
 id wages, in end 
 ted at about six 
 iw lodges of lu- 
 
 [ambling. They 
 ;r Columbia, and 
 an it here.'^'' Six 
 mong themselves 
 themselves, with 
 lan on one of the 
 Ids in his hand; 
 a regular knock* 
 range. The man 
 
 as possible from 
 the opposite side, 
 satisfied, he stops 
 
 he hulda.it. If 
 >one, with a small 
 jh the same cere- 
 
 giiesses wrongly 
 mds over a little 
 one or the other 
 
 which they have 
 akes are delivered 
 f attached to this 
 mble away ever^ 
 assess ; after vhw 
 
 stake their own 
 lometimes even to 
 ate gamettere. 
 of such articles at 
 r>r other* that wiU 
 It to take out sueh 
 gle, who ^eiQtout 
 
 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 87 
 
 with the late emigranta. Iiad erected a small foundry, with the 
 intention of casting some old cannon thai lay 'bout the lort, 
 and other broken utennils, into those most needed for culinary 
 purposes; but he had not commenced business when I left. 
 
 Unimproved lots bcU at from one to five hundred doUara 
 each, (the price varying wi:h their location,) in the currency 
 
 of the country. ..,-.. ,. i... 
 
 The ground back of the town on the bluff, is rather rocky 
 for half a mile, to the foot of the hill; upon ascending the hill, 
 the country conaials of fern openings and timber grove* alter- 
 nately, for a tliMance of about thirty-five miles, to the Cascade 
 mountains. Upon this bluff, which is covered wiili timber, 
 there is a small but beautiful lake, supplied with springs, which 
 has an outlet by a rivulet that passes through the town into 
 
 The river below the Falls, for several miles, is about two 
 hundred and fifty yards wide, and opposite the town it is very 
 deep. The bank on the east side, with the exception of a few 
 hundred yards, is a cliff of about twenty feet in height, for the 
 first half mile, of a firm basaltic rock ; from thence down to the 
 Clackamis the bank is a sandy loom. .. . r» 
 
 Upon the weat side of the Willamette, and opposite to Ore- 
 iron city, are laid out two villages; the npper one is called 
 Linn city, in honor of the late senator from Missouri, whose 
 memory, for his pntrioiic servises in the cause of the Oregon 
 emierant, is held in high estflcsai br ever^ tnie mend of his 
 country and of humanity. When br. Urn died, the friends 
 of Oregon lost a champion who vc»jW m% hevft shamelessly 
 deserted them in the hour of need. Mr. Moore, late of 
 MiBSouri, is the proprietor; his claim commences one-fourth 
 of a mile below the Falls, extends above the Falls one and 
 three-fourths <f a mile, and back from the river one half of a 
 mile. When I loft, there were about fifteen buildings in this 
 viUaae. inhabited mosdy by mechanics. The proprietor had 
 refiued to sell water power, which was doubUess one of the 
 cBa«ona why more emigrants did not settle in it. 
 ^exu lower down, is the claim of Mr. Hugh Bnrns, « n»' ve 
 of Ireland, but lately an emigrant from Missouri; he Is the 
 rwoprietor of MulUnoma city, which is so called from the In- 
 dian name for the Willamette river, and a tnbe of Indians of 
 this name that once inhabited that country. I hie tribe is now 
 nwriy extinct" At their burial places, near this, there are 
 hundreds of skulls yet Iving over the ground. When 1 MX, 
 
 ■H 
 
 wdi^ 
 
 I 
 
I 
 
 ^ JOCaNAL OF TRAVEL* OVER 
 
 there were but few buildinn, and eomo few mfchanice •eltlcd 
 in it. There are two fcrriea esiablished over the river, from 
 tlie villugea on the weat aide, Ut Oregon cily. Upon llie weal 
 aide, the bank of the river ia aimilar to ihut on die eaai, quiw 
 high, leaving bill n amall aemicircuiar level for liie firat boliom j 
 and upon a farther ascent of about twenty feel, therfl ia a larger 
 plain at llio lower end of thi« blulf. The bottom corrwpondt 
 w«ii with thai ubove the Clackamia on the oppoaile aide, and 
 ia covered with a deiue growth of fir; the ueea are tall and 
 atraight. 
 
 DEBCRirrioN ot thi Country. The journey to Oregoo 
 city ac. .upliahed, and an examination of tlio immediate vicinity 
 completed, ! aet about an inquiry aa to the fpntiirea of ihe coun- 
 try iia ferlilily, its general auaieplibilily of improvement, and 
 
 iu capability for the aupport of a large and induatrious popu- 
 lation. In BO doing, in addition to what I could aee for myaelf, 
 I applied for information to all whoae opportunitiea had been 
 favorable for obtaining a knowledge of any particular fcection. 
 In thie work I waa an inquirer after facta, in order to decid* 
 the quealion aa to the propriety of uking my family there for 
 a permanent home; and whan I noted tliea* facU. no attention 
 waa pakl to the claaaification and arrangement of the varioua 
 Bubjeeta, u ia generally done by thoae travelera and geogra- 
 phera whoae buaineaB ia book-making. Neceasarily, therefore, 
 my Journal preaenta facta, iuat in the order in which they 
 came to me, and aa I received tliem tliey are placed before the 
 reader. _ . 
 
 The landscape immediately adjacent to the villageB of Linn 
 city and MullinoHm present several abrupt precipices of various 
 heighta, upon each of which ia a email level, of lesser and 
 greater widths, clothed with fine grass and sUidded over with 
 oak limber, until the highest ascent is reached, when it spreads 
 out into an extensive fern opening. From these cliffs thero 
 gush out fine atraams of pure spring water; and they will 
 afford most beautiful country aeate for the erection of reai- 
 dencea convenient to the towns, w hen their improvement shall 
 render such sites desirable. From these heighta, (which are 
 easily ascended,) there is a fine view of the falls of the river 
 for several milea, and of Mount Hood. From the heights to 
 Quality Plains, a distance of twenty-five miles, ilie country 
 presents rolling plains, with small grovea of oak and fir, and it 
 w well watered by springs and small rivulets. 
 
 P 
 
DMhanics ■ettlcd 
 r thn river, from 
 Upon llie wrtl 
 n ihe eoal, quilt) 
 the first bottom; 
 , ther<j i* a larver 
 Itoin corrvapondt 
 ppoaito aide, and 
 jTsea are tall and 
 
 urney to Orf-gon 
 nmediate vicinity 
 tiirea of tlie uoun- 
 mprovenient, and 
 n«iu«triou9 popu- 
 Id Bee for myaelf, 
 luniliea had been 
 lartieular section. 
 I order to decide 
 ^ family tliere for 
 facta, no attention 
 at of the varioua 
 elera and geogra- 
 laaarily. therefore, 
 It in which they 
 placed before tho 
 
 e villagea of Linn 
 scipicesof varibua 
 vel, of lesser and 
 iludded over with 
 d, when it spread* 
 these clifls thero 
 r; and they will 
 ) ereettoD of reai- 
 roprovement shall 
 lights, (which are 
 falls of the river 
 itn the heights to 
 Allies, tlie country 
 oak and fir, and it 
 
 THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. g|t 
 
 From the description given of the towns, the reader may 
 have already inferred, that the FaIIs of the Willamette coni> 
 bine all that is necessary to cnnsiiuile great water privil<'gi>s 
 for propelling nnchinery; hut before leaving this point, we 
 will take a more particular view of them. 
 
 These falls are occasioned by the descent of the whole 
 volume of the river over a ledge of basnllic rock that crosses 
 the entire channel. The greatest fall at any point is twenty- 
 eight feet, but the w!,ole descent here is about forty fei^l. 
 The water is so divided in the channels at the Falls, and the 
 islands are so situated, that nearly all of the water may be 
 rendered available, at a very small expense, when it shall be 
 needed. Nature rarely st any one point concentrates so many 
 advantages for the erection and support of a great commercial 
 and manufacturing city, as are to be found here. There ia an 
 abundance of water to propel the machinery, atone and timber 
 convenient to erect the necessary buildinn, an extensive coun* 
 try of the best farming lands in the world to support the towns 
 by their trade, and a tine navigable river to bring the raw ma 
 terial to the manufactories, and when manufactured to carry 
 the surplus to tiie Pacific, whence it can easily be taken to the 
 best markets the world aflbrds. At this place, the buainess of 
 the upper Willamette will concentrate, for many yeara at least. 
 Tide water reaches to the mouth of the Olaekamis, which is 
 within two miles of the Falls. Here there is a considerable 
 ripple in the river, whirh can easily be removed by confining 
 the Claekamis to its original bed upon the eastern side of the 
 island. As it is, there are four feet of water over the bar, and 
 not so rapid as to prevent the ascent of steamboats to the F&ll<i. 
 Vessels of two hundred and fifty ton* burthen beve aaeended 
 within two miles of the repids; \ ut, from the orookednesa of 
 the streem and the difficulty ir^ tceking so frequently, thev 
 generally receive and discharge their cargoes at Portland, 
 twelve miles below. 
 
 Traveling up the river, five milee from the Falls, bring* u* 
 to Ro<ik lalflnd. Here is said to be a serious obstruction to tha 
 navii^tion of the river. The difficulty eon*i*t* in there-being 
 sever^ peak* of rock* *o elevated, as to be near the eurfaee of 
 the water in a low stage $ and as the ehanneb between them 
 are very narrow, and :he water quite rapid, boat* are liable to 
 run on to them. ' But the roci; can be renoved at an ineon- 
 sidmbl* Axpeose. It is flfteea mUes above the Fall* to ^e 
 
 ! 
 
 i'JiisiMliwiiiisnwi 
 
t» 
 
 jouiu«AL or TiiAvmLa ovsa 
 
 fintmfel b»r, •! which pl»c«. in low wttor, ther. u but thr.* 
 fe«t In ihe chinnel. _^ ., , , . . . ., 
 
 In triveling up the tivm »boul fifty mUM, I found, in wJdl- 
 tion 10 ihe ob»lructionit nwned. four olh«r |T«»el b«rt, ov« 
 .oma of wim-h then, were only thirty i^''" «' '^'^^ J^ 
 goinff the noxiie»«nlyfi»e mil.-. I ippro.oh« th« "'"••*•'»» 
 timi tnd found it to ha*. • deep clmnnel .nd •inooth r urrenU 
 P.rwn^ who hid n.vifnled the riv.r coniid«r.bly furdier up. 
 in ihe.r twffic with ih? Inditnt. informed mt thtl it contuiued 
 equally fatourable fo. navigation. From what I .aw and 
 learned of intelligeni p..rio.i.. I thu.k the •«>»»•' "'•"/J?"*,™* 
 boat* could for moat pari of the year ascend two hundred miles 
 
 ''Trom'the'cVlumbiji to Upper California, io a mounlainoua 
 bem known aa the Coael range. Spurs of U.is "nge approach 
 nearly to tl.. mouili of the Willameite. B*'*^" ^^^l/JT'i 
 and the river, tliere U but a small portion of the soil well 
 xiapled to agricuUuire. The higher range to Uie weal of the 
 FalU affords a scope of fifty milt-s, that *"»> the exception of 
 a few openings, and Quality Plains, u tolerably broken, gene- 
 rMyZl Jbired. finely watered, with many exceUent e.tua. 
 tioiw for farm. ; buH not so well calculated, as soma other parls, 
 for dense seltUmeBits. , 
 
 Quality Plains are distant twenty-five mile. *••» f^" 
 Oregon city; tliey ar. about twenty-five ""«;» W'"*; 
 riteroatdy rolling prairie and U.nber. surrounded by heavy 
 g^Xlt fir..l.ny of which ri«, to the f.^lji of two hunj 
 Ld and fifty faat. These plain, are all clainwl, "»H«1' •" 
 mo.dv improTwl. They are well watered by many small 
 Sr«m.Sl.at«t. ih'e two fork, of Quality river whjch 
 unit, new the wuth-east part of Uie plains, and runs an aMtwly 
 Turla^Trongh narrow bottom., well «.ppU«l with Umb« for 
 ~orV han tSenty miles, where it di«;l«rges »" ^*»««" ;«to 
 S; W llamette. tWo miles above Oregon city. Tho pnnciijJ 
 part of tha w.t.r that flow, in Quality river dascands from the 
 Coast lUnga. Thi. stream, lik. moat olhars in »h«» 'fT*"' 
 hi MvWWl. and rapid., that famish tery destnjta .1^ 
 kf th. prapeUlng of mUinery t but if aver P'o6f M. for 
 navigation, WUl hiv. to ba improved by e«»«l» •"^.^^"S 
 naSi it. fills » whieh en easily be dona, wh»n th. com. 
 marc, of th. country wiU jusUfy the «P««>«'- . ^.j. 
 
 From thii «mm. wd batwaan the CoMt Ruga «« Wdto^ 
 JS wTto tha .outh, to the ShahaUm trilay. whirii eon- 
 
 Mm 
 
ihere u but thrM 
 
 I found, in Midi* 
 iravel ban, ov«f 
 !!• of water. In 
 I the river Mtreral 
 1 eniooih current, 
 inbiy furilier up, 
 
 that it continued 
 what I nw and 
 ler olaaa of ateam* 
 wo hundred milee 
 
 ia a mounlainoua 
 ia range approach 
 iween iheee epura 
 of the aoil well 
 to tlie weat of the 
 I the exception of 
 kbly broken, gene- 
 ny excellent aitua* 
 I aoroe other parla, 
 
 mile* weat from 
 ilea in length, art 
 vunded by heavy 
 leiglil of two hun« 
 aimed, aettled. and 
 d by many amall 
 uality river, which 
 mdrooaaneaaterly 
 ied with timber for 
 [ea iu watera into 
 ty. Th»J principal 
 
 daaoenda from the 
 lera in that region, 
 rery deairable aitae 
 ever profitable for 
 canala aitd lockage 
 oe, when the eouk* 
 m. 
 
 It lUogt and WUlir 
 vaUey, whkh eom* 
 
 
 THE ROOKY MOUNTAfNI. f§ 
 
 mencea at the low paaa of Quality Plaina. ia a tract of about 
 twenty by thirty milea in exmnt, of roUing fertile landa, alter- 
 nately fern openinga anil timber grovea. . , , 
 From the Coa«t Ranne to the WillaroBlle there la a belt of 
 five or ai i milea in width, which near the rivrr ia covered 
 thinly with yellow pinee; but nearer the mounum it ia b«tier 
 timbered, and well watarwl from mountain rlvuUu ; rooeUy a 
 rich atjd looie aoil, coropoaed chiefly of yellow aand. loem and 
 clay. Bui little of line tract ia claiin««l by the emigranu, aa 
 tli«y uaually profRr the prairie country aSove. 
 
 The ShHhalain ia a amall atream. which haa iM origin in 
 the Coaat Range, mna eaalwardly and emptiea into the Willa. 
 mette, twenty milee above Oregon city. Thie U akirUd with 
 good prairiea of five or aix milea in width, near the mounlainat 
 but towarda iu momli the vulley ie covered with timber and 
 fern« The beat portion ia claimed. 
 
 Eleven milea further up. the Willamette reoeivea the watera 
 of the Yam-hill. At the mouth it ia about twenty five yarde 
 in width, quite deep, and will bear upon iU boeom crafte of 
 Urge burthen for ten milea, to the falla. 
 
 Thia atream haa two principal branehea ; the one riaing in 
 the Coaat Range, rune for twenty milee in a aouih-eaaterly direo- 
 tion, through a beautiful and fertile valley of twelve miloa in 
 width, handaomely covered with grovee of while oak, and other 
 timber; which ia interaeoted with numeroua apring branehea, 
 the banka of which are lined with timber, leaving in aome placet 
 fine bottom prairiee, covered with a rich award of graafc Be- 
 tween thia fork and the Shabalam ia a range of hiUe nfWjHpnf 
 about two milea in width, extending from a p«rt of the Coaat 
 Range, to within three milea of the Willamette. They are of 
 ateep aaoent, aome of them riaing to five or aix hundred feet in 
 height, well covered vriihgraaa,andfrom their aidea laauenumer. 
 oua apring rivulela, which near their origin are lined with fir 
 treea; thence pasaiiif through grovee of white oak, alder and 
 willow, to the bottom lande, which in eroaaing aome of them du. 
 appear, and othera after joining together, eontinoe their eouraee 
 until they unite with the Shahahim and Yani*hill. The graaaei 
 on theae hille are a epeciea of nA clot er, that grow* in the eum- 
 mer aeaaon shout one foot high, and e fine graae, which after 
 the dover diaappeera, keep them otad in green luriM the win- 
 ter. Thu4 they fomiah a perpetual aapply of food for oattJi 
 the whole ye«r. The 8«41 upon theae hUie t> • mixture of dav 
 and lovB, of e reddiah color, end in the bottoma it ii • iiek 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 >iii— I 
 
;m;sNAi. or travkiji ovkji 
 
 It 
 
 II , 
 
 ii • 
 
 mixture of lo«m iin<l muok. Howe? er, ihert •« iome of »h« 
 hull noiMwIm Mndy, ind oorMtonally interap«rMd wilh ttoaf 
 dIacci. 
 
 From th« lourra of ihii branoh of the Yam-hill, (which in 
 th« country i» '••il««l the North Fork,) |«»i««i th« tr«c«». «!oMf 
 which th« p«opl« on I'laUop pltiti* tlri«« their cattin a diatnnc« 
 of about forty milaa, when they r«ai;h th« eoaai, f.^Mn nidM 
 ■outh of Cape liOokout. 
 
 Th« aouth fork of Yam-hill haa iu aourca in the Cojat 
 Kangr ; where it emerfrM from the niounuina, for die flrat ten 
 milea, iu banka art< well aupplied with lat^e fir ireea, aa are 
 ita aeveral tributarieai ita banka arc fenerally ateep, bearing 
 Iha appearanca of having waahed mil a eh^nnei from Hfloen to 
 iweniy feet in depth. It runa an eaatem coorne for about ten 
 niil#i, then north-Mat (or aome inilea. and finally take* a 
 iiorihern direciion. until it connaota wiih the North fork, near 
 the Falla, after having flowed a diatanca of about twenty-Ave 
 
 inilee. 
 
 i'ha valley watered by thia atream ia about Al\een milea 
 wide, aftflr the atream emerifM from the heacy growth of flra 
 already noUeed ; for there are fira, more or lea*, ita whole length. 
 From the w«t«r couraea, upon an averajfe of a little over one 
 fourth of a mile, the valley ia fine prairie lund. aoil light and 
 rich, oceaaionally Interaperaed with fine grovee, and well 
 adapted to agricultural purpoaea. It ia well covered with graaa, 
 aa ia every poHion of the country that haa oaken grovea, and 
 the lower bottoma yield an sbnndant anpply of the Camat, ■ 
 tuberoua rooted plant, ahaped aomething like an onion, which 
 it reaemblea in appearance. It ia devoured greedily by hoge, 
 and affnrda very good nniriment. The Indiana make much uae 
 of it ae an article of food. Between theae atreama and within aix 
 milea of their junction, oommencea the high landa of the Coaat 
 Range; the firat phitflmi ia about ten milea wide, and wall 
 covered with graaa. The aecond plateau, for a few milee ia 
 fern openinge, with an oeeaaional grove of timber ; after thie 
 wealward to the ooeat the country ia heavilv timbered with 
 fira, pine, and oceaaionally cedar, hemlock, balaam, and nearlf 
 apeciea of the evergrreen timber. The atreama laat de- 
 
 all 
 
 aortbed 
 
 moantaina. 
 
 near the 
 Yeia- 
 
 fUmiah good aitea for hydraulie purpoaea, nei 
 
 ina. A conaidenble portion of the valley of the 
 
 hiU ia not only claimed, but eettled, and finelv improved 
 Leaving the Yam-hill and aaeeodinf the Willamette tw 
 if roilfli, we raaeh die roootb of the RIokerall, e eMrai 
 
 .L 
 
 tm^ixsi 
 
n.n 
 
 •r« art come of lh« 
 eraparMil willi iloajT 
 
 Yam-hill, (which in 
 ••«• ih« \ncn, alonf 
 heir cattlfl ■ diatMno* 
 « eoaal, ufuimn ntilM 
 
 KMirffl in th« CoMt 
 tains, for the flrst ten 
 iak|[« flr ireea, ■• aro 
 i«rnlly alaep, bearing 
 lAnnei from AAoen to 
 conrM for aiwut ten 
 and finnliy take* a 
 the NorOi forli, near 
 of about twcnty-Ava 
 
 I about AHeen mile* 
 hcaxy gmwih nf flrs 
 leM, ita whole length, 
 re nf a little oter one 
 ie luntl. aoil light and 
 ne grovea, and well 
 >ll covered with graae, 
 aa oaken graves, and 
 )ply of the Cmnaa, m 
 like an onion, which 
 red greedily by hogs, 
 dians make much use 
 ftreama and within aix 
 gh landa of the Coast 
 iiiles wide, and well 
 lU. for a few miles is 
 of timber ; afker this 
 leavilT timbered with 
 ik, baiaam, and nsarlf 
 rhe streams lut &i- 
 R purposes, near ths 
 he valley of the Yam- 
 finelv improved, 
 lie WilUmmie twtatjr- 
 e RioksraU, « itrwai 
 
IMAGE EVALUATION 
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 Photographic 
 
 Sdeiices 
 
 Corporation 
 
 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
 WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S«0 
 
 (716)872-4503 
 
 
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 mp. 
 
 €^0 
 
 
 
 
 ! 
 
 i 
 
 CIHM/ICMH 
 
 Microfiche 
 
 Series. 
 
 CIHM/ICMH 
 Collection de 
 microfiches. 
 
 Caoudian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadien ie microreproductions historlques 
 
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. ffi 
 
 which hat in •onree in the mme range ■• the Y«ra-hUl ; for 
 the firit ten mile* it runs rapidly over a pebbly bed, and froin 
 thence to the mouth ha« a deep channel, worn m a rich soil, 
 with timbered banke. It flowe in an easterly ^;OVTMhmn the 
 raountaina eighteen milea, and unites with ihe V/illamette. 
 The talley through which this stream flows resembles that 
 described as watered by the Yam-hill ; perhaps the soil is a 
 litde richer. It is nearly all claimed, and will soon be well 
 sfltded. Upon this stream there is erected a grist mill, and 
 there was a saw mill, but the freshets washed it *w«y »»» 
 sprinff. Fi»e miles shore Yam-hill commence a range of hills 
 that ?xtend south to the RickeraU, simUar to those between 
 Shahakm and Yam-hill. These hills vary from tme to four 
 miles in width, leaving a bottom about aix miles wide to skirt 
 the Waiaroette, which is of good soil, well watered and tim- 
 bereu. Upon the slope* of these hills are several thousands 
 of acres of white oak, from six to twenty feet in height, 
 some of them of large diameter and all with large and bushy 
 tops: the ground bwing covered with grasp, at a distance they 
 look like old orchards. The timber of these trees is very 
 solid, and promises great durability. The yaUey between die 
 Yam-hiU and Riekerall is called Uie Applegate setdement; 
 diere are diree brothers of die Applejjates, they have fine 
 farms, with good herds of fiit And thrifty cattle. The Yam- 
 hiU plain* is called die Hemerey settlement, from a fami y of 
 this name diere tetded. Upon die Riekerall are die GilUmt, 
 Fords and Shaw*, all doing well. The Gays and Madieney* 
 are setded upon the bottom of the Willamette, between Yam- 
 hill and Riekerall. .,.,,. u. 
 Twelve mile* above die Riekerall, empties the Laeky-make 
 into die Willamette; it head* in die *ame range a* die Yam- 
 hUl, wid, like it, ha* two prineiptlbranche*, of about the same 
 length, depdi and w^di, and pease* thioogh an excellent val- 
 ley of land, widi die suae diverside* and excellent qualifie* 
 for farming whieh eie attributed to the Yannhill va ley— die 
 Umbef being mow df otk and le** of fir. Upon dii* "tream 
 several claim* are entered, and diere ia e fine opening for 
 odier* who may dertf* to Bctde diere. 
 
 Mome river join* the Waiamette •boot dilrty-five nde* 
 above die Lnekv-make. It ha* it* origin In die Goa*t range, 
 has two prlndMl branehe*, i»hleh unite near the moontMn*, 
 nme* tnimil**over m pebbly bottom, «nd dten become* more 
 Snggbh to ita moudi. Thii,liktdieadMritmmiid*iflrib«d/ 
 
m^ 
 
 _^ L 
 
 g^ JOURNiOi OF TRAVELS OVER 
 
 htf timber uoon iu borden, but leu than lome } good country, 
 fine protpeciB, and but few claima made. 
 
 Between the Lucky-muke and Mouae river there ie « range 
 of hill., a. between other •Iream. ; but nt one P>»»5^» 'P" «[ 
 the Coaat r«nge approaches within ten mdea of the Wdlameltej 
 ftom thU iaaue many »mall .tream. wh.<.h run down .t,. ad 
 hroush the fine plaine to the Luckymuke upon the one aide, 
 and S Mouae river on the other. Thia U .beautiful region; 
 from he bottom can be aeen. at different point., .even .now. 
 jTr^^ peak, of the C..c«le range. The C"c«le u wjthm 
 view for agreatdUuince. to the north and wuth; which, to- 
 gether with the beautiful acenery In the valley, render, it a 
 picturesque place. Thrif.y grove, of fir «»d ?»^ "• J« Jj 
 aeen in every direction ; the earth i. carpeted with » covering 
 orfuxuriant gra... and fertiliied by .tream. of clear running 
 rivS,^)mf of which .ink down «id other. ?«»« their 
 courw above ground to the .iver. Between the orU of Mouee 
 river approache. a part of the Cawade, but it e^vee a valley 
 up each^branch about one mile in widjh, the «,.l of which » 
 rich and good prairie for .everd mile, above *• J««- 
 The mounuin aide, are covered very »)~''Jy '"J' J' ""J,*^'; 
 Thue theee beauUfol vallay. offer great induwmento to tho.e 
 iZ w..h to have cUim. of good land. :yi'»V^'>V 8'«»"J' £! 
 paaturage and timber clo.e at hand. There •»«»«•«" 
 l^ado « yet above the fork.. The- .iwem. f«">\«h «»«» ™ J 
 
 t«. for ei«h of the firrt .ix mUee. and aro well filUd w.th 
 
 *Trom the fork, of thi. .tream etarj- • trdlr (or ^'jT^ 
 towi.) which lead, to the fall, of the Al.a. a .tmm that hnde 
 Srenty mUe. to the wuth of theee fork.; th. tr«l lewi. a 
 ^^SxyZne for fi(UM« mUe. to the FalU ; Jon. thence to 
 thecoait it i. twenty^me mU^, From ^•/"^.»^j;" 
 run. in a we.terly dinition. An old Indi«» told me that there 
 WMiomeeiceUentUnd in tl«. vaUey, aBdOiat *•"*««" 
 be but Utde diffieulty in oonetrocUng a good »»« down lU 
 Salmon and other fiah art in great abondanee in thie .trewa. 
 
 "^^Kx m*ii?llb;)re Mouw riw i. the nwath •' I|«3[J«; 
 Batht thi^ Uke aU other .trewM that enter the W«lUmette 
 Juon tlTwatem eide, head, in the.eoMtranff. iad >ft«r 
 b^ing ill way through the epure to «»» JP^m b«low, PMMe 
 S»oi?«Talltf of good lioil. It hM «&tp benki, l» mow 
 S!!3htoi!Xo.i»wSthMthQW tb.t join it lower down. 
 
 t*-.^_ 
 
tR 
 
 me ; good countrji 
 
 trer there is « range 
 in« pltca a epur of 
 I of the WilUmettei 
 I run down it, aad 
 upon the one lidct 
 I a beautiful region ; 
 ;>ointa, aeven anow- 
 I Cascade ia within 
 1 aouth; which, to- 
 valley, renden it a 
 and oak are to be 
 led with a covering 
 as of clear running 
 others pursue their 
 a the forks of Mouse 
 at it leaves a valley 
 he soil of which is 
 above the junelian. 
 ivily with fir timber, 
 aduevments to those 
 rith fine grounds for 
 'here are no dsims 
 MS famish good mill 
 we well filUd with 
 
 itnilr(or half-made 
 , a stream that heads 
 u; the trail leads a 
 ^alls ; from thence to 
 1 the Falls the river 
 ID told me that Uiere 
 md that there would 
 good road down it. 
 danea in this stream* 
 
 BOttth of Long Tom 
 enter the Wiflamette 
 oast rang*, snd after 
 iDliioflbelow,pas«ee 
 deep banki« is man 
 tjoia it lower down. 
 
 THE BOCry MOUMAiNS. f^ 
 
 ia fillod with dirty water, has a miry bottom, slm..ed upon its 
 margin witli Umber, and in siae is iomething larger than the 
 
 Yam-hill. . , , 
 
 Bo far, I have deacribed the valley from personal obaerva- 
 tion in that direction; but I was informed bv those who had 
 sood opportunities for obtaining correct mformation, that it 
 Ltre off more easterly, and that it waa for eighty miles further 
 up as well watered, timbered, and of as luxuriant aoil, as that 
 which I have deacribed. It may be proper here to remark, 
 that the further the valley U ascended the oak timber' becomes 
 more abundant, and the fir in a corresponding ratio dec»e-«ee. 
 Havinff deacribed the country for more than one hundred 
 milea upon the western aide ol h. WilUmelte. we will return 
 to the Falls and menUon a few facts respectinf the eastern bank. 
 Upon this bank, for ten miles to the aoulh of Oregon ciiy, 
 continue fern openings, to a smaU alream called Pole Alley, 
 which ia skirted with beautiful prairie bottoms of from two to 
 eiiht milei in length and from one to two miles wide; these, 
 with alternate grovea of fir, consUtute the principal charac- 
 terisfics of Pole Alley valley. It is not more than half a mile 
 from the mouth of Pole Alley, farther to the south, where 
 Pudding river ombogues into the Willamette; it is twenty-five 
 yards in width at the mouth. The valley up this river to the 
 Cascade mountains, where it rises, is alternately fine praine 
 and timber lands, with occaaional fern openings. Some of the 
 prairiee are claimed by the recent emigranta. It is finely 
 clothed in grass, and up tlie river aoine distance there are 
 valuable miU aites; the water u clear, and weU slocked with 
 fiah. From Pudding river further aouth, there are fern open- 
 ings, which are succeeded by grassy prairies, which give place 
 tofine groves of fir, but aparsely intermingled wtth cedar. 
 
 Eiffht miles from Podding river is a village called Butes. 
 It wM laid out by Messrs. Abemathy and Beera. There were 
 bat a few cabins in it when I left. The propnetow had. 
 sracted a warehouse to store the wheat they might purchasa 
 of the eettlera back, who should find it w)nvenwnt to seU their 
 etope at this point At this place are some conical hills, caliea 
 Butae. whkh rise to a considerable height; the sides and tops 
 of them ar« elothed with tall fir trees, which can be seen from 
 tba valley above for sixty miles. Immediately at^his vdlwe 
 in a forn opMiins, coveried with an undergrowth of haale, for 
 tiiiM^owrtbt of a mito back, when it meigee into an extensuo 
 •ad fiHrUlo pnlrit. ■ v;.^;.,, ■;,;.-<;,. 
 
 •vmaH 
 
M 
 
 JOUKNAL OF TRAVELS OVER 
 
 South of Butat three milei n the flllage of Shampoic. 
 It wM laid out by a mounuineer, of the iwme of Newell, 
 formerly a clerk o» the Hudson'a Bay Company. It conlaine 
 a few old ahabby bnildinga, and a warehooae owned by the 
 company, where they receife the wheat of the eettlwe of the 
 country from thence to the Oaaeade mountaina. Thia la an 
 extenaive plain, extendini from Padd'ng river up the Willap 
 mette to the old Methodist miaeion ground, which la diatant 
 thirty mllea from the mouth of Pudding river. The aoU for 
 thia diatance, and for two milea n width, ia aimiUr to that 
 deacribed immediately at Butea. Back of thia for twenty-five 
 or thirty milea ia a very handaome eountr>-, moatly praine, and 
 fine timber, well watered, with occaaionally a hill— the whole 
 covered with a aoil quite invilintf to the apicuUuriat, with an 
 abundance of paaturage for catUe. This ia called the Freiich 
 aetUement, and is one of the oldeat in the valley. The Cathoj 
 lica have here a mission, schools, a grist and saw mill, and 
 aeverai mechanica ; they have also several teaohera Jirong the 
 Indiana, and it ia said that they have done much for the Im- 
 provement of these aborigines. The inhabitants are mosUy 
 of what are called French Canadians, and were formeriy en- 
 gaged in the service of the Hudaon Bay Company, but have 
 now quit it, made claims, and gone to farming. They have 
 very orettv oitjharde of apple trees, and some peach trees. 
 Their' wives are naUves of the country. Many of them are 
 raising families that, when educated, will be eprightly. •• mey 
 are naturally active and hurdy, and appear very friendly and 
 hospitable. But few of them speak the Engluih language 
 fluently; they mostly talk French and Chinook j«r|on. 
 They cultivate hot little land, but that litde is well done, and 
 the rich aoil well repaya them for the Ubor expended upon it. 
 I could not satisfactorily ascertain the population of the aetUe- 
 ment, which I much regretted. 
 
 The old Melhodiat mission is nearly opposite to what is 
 now called Matheny'a Ferry. It was ropotied to me to hw* 
 been one of the first missiona occupied in the vrtley, but nas 
 been abandoned on account yf the overflowing of tfie mer. 
 It consists of only several dilapidated buildings, rhs aotl li 
 gravelly, inclined to barren, with a grove of pines near by. 
 
 This place for a number of yeara waa under the sopenntstt 
 dance of the Rev. Jason Lee. It is here that the remains of 
 bis wife sra interred; a tombstone marks her resUflg pises,' 
 which ioforms the ptsser by that she was til* fast ftVm w*» 
 
 %»■!< 
 
ER 
 
 llage of Shampnie. 
 e nam* of NewalU 
 npany. It oontaiM 
 toa* owned by tht 
 f th« aettlera of Ui* 
 ntaina. Thia i» an 
 rirer up (he Willa* 
 id, which ia dielant 
 iver. The aoil for 
 h, ia aimiUr to that 
 
 thie for twenty-five 
 ', moatly prairie, and 
 ly a hill — the whole 
 l^iculturiet, with an 
 ia called the French 
 rallev. TheCatho* 
 ; and aaw mill, and 
 1 teaohera airung the 
 ne n>uch for the Im- 
 habitanta are moatly 
 d were formerly en* 
 Company, bnt have 
 irming. They have 
 
 aome peaeh treea. 
 
 Many of them are 
 be sprightly, a* they 
 lar very friendly and 
 le Engliah language 
 id Chinook jargon, 
 tie ia well done, and 
 or expended upon it 
 ;>ulation of the settle- 
 
 opposite to what is 
 ipoiied to me to hare 
 in the vdley, but has 
 flowing of the river. 
 liMings. The soil ii 
 rofpinee nearby, 
 under the aopennten 
 that the remains of 
 ka her resUns places 
 M the tot f^UM wo* 
 
 THE ROOKY MOUNTAlNt. §f 
 
 man that waa buried in Oregon Territory,— together with the 
 place of her naiiviiy, marringe, &e. 
 
 The unfortunate location of the miasion, and the ciroum- 
 auneea under which Mra. Lee died, no doubt have had great 
 influence in creating Uiat unfavorable impresaion of the coun- 
 Uy in the mind of Mr. Lse, which he has expreaaed in some 
 or his letters. The country surrounding the mission is cov- 
 ered mostly with scrubby oak and pine Uees. 
 
 From the miaaion t'lie road proceeda up the valley, alter- 
 nately through grovee of oak and pine, fern plaine, and graaay 
 prairies, in which are aeveral (arms, with convenient buildinga. 
 Ailer purauing thia route about ten miles, we come to an im- 
 provement of aoveral hundred acres, anrrounded with amall 
 groves of oak. Here the soil is quite gravellyi and not very 
 
 rich. .,„... 
 
 Nearly opposite the mouth of the Rickerall is thn Methodist 
 Institute,which waa located at this place when it waa ascertained 
 that tlie Willamette would overflow iu bank at the old miasion. 
 My opinion is, that the location ia a good one, beinc in a high 
 and healthy neighborhood, and nearly central of what will be 
 the principal population of the valley for long yeara to come. 
 
 The course of instruction there given is quite respectable, 
 and would compare well with many of those located in the 
 old and populous settlements of the States. This school is 
 unconnected with any miaaion. When the missionary board 
 roneluded to abandon <that field of labor, the Inatitute was 
 bought by the Methodists of Oregon ; hence it continued un- 
 der its dd name. The price of tuition Is low, and the meaiM 
 of receiving an education at thia place ia within the power of 
 those who have but a small amount to expend in its atuin- 
 ment. 
 
 For the first five milee from the river towards the Cas- 
 cade range, the soil is gravelly : it is then a sandy loun to th« 
 foot of the monntain, and is genenlly an open plain. The 
 valley npon the east side of the river at this plaoe, is about 
 twea'.y*Bve miles in width. It is proper, however, to remark, 
 that there are oeeasional groves of timber interspersing the 
 pmifie, and in some places they reach within a short distance 
 of the river. In this last described tract, th«nre are several va- 
 rietiee of soil, with prairie, timber, oplaad, boUom, and hill 
 side ; the whole U well watered. At the Institute there reside 
 about fifteen families, and near by several claims are taken, 
 and improvemenu commenced. The Methodist nissiooariea 
 Q 
 
 i 
 
 \ 
 
 1 
 
 -** 
 
H JOURNAL or TKAVrxa OVE« 
 
 hk .1 trected a «aw and grwt milh th"" ""i"" >»««' '«'J' " 
 WM all the properly of ihe iniwiom in lh« valley, by Mr. 
 Gerrv. who waa aent out to <lo«e the roiwionary rooiiera in 
 that woa; Ihey are now o^ned by reaidcnt oitizena, and in 
 tucceaaful operation. At Una place a town la laid oui. 
 
 8i& milea above iha Inalitute commencea a range ol oati 
 hilla. which continue about twelve milea in a aouih-eaalcrn 
 direction along the river, where they connect by a low paa. 
 with the Ca«:.de Range. From thia place, at the lower bench 
 oJ- the Caacade, commencea another range of hjUa, runnii.g 
 aoulh-weatwardly, which continue about twenty nnilea in lengih, 
 10 ihe mouth of the Santaum river, which join, the W.lla. 
 mcu« twenty milea by land ahove the 4natitute. Thia la a 
 bold and rapid elream, of about one hundred and fifty yarda 
 in width ; for a considerable portion of iU lenfin, li hae n 
 pebbly bottom, and banka covered with fir ^..r' white cedar 
 Ueea of the beet quality. . -u i 
 
 The Santa Anna haa four principal branchea, with aeveral 
 •mall tribuuriea. aU lined with timber, leaving a .trip of beau- 
 tiful prairie land between each, of from one-half to four milea 
 in width. The two northern branchea rue in Mount Jefler* 
 ■on, the firat running nearly weat from i" •'«'""» J*"'"" 
 leavea the mounUin. when it inclinea to the aoulh for a few 
 milea, where it receivea another branch; from ihia junction 
 •bout eight milea, it ia Joined by a alream that riaea in the 
 Caacad*IUn«e, aouth of Mount JeflTeraon. Tan ««}« »>«Jo* 
 thia point, thi other principal branch, which naea atill further 
 to the aouth, onitea with the other., when the river incline, to 
 the we.t. until it join, the Willamette. From »• origin in 
 Mount Jefferaon to iU termination, i. about forty mde. ; from 
 the Oak hilla above named ia twenty-five milea. 
 
 A conaiderable portion of the wil in ihi. vJley i. quit* 
 araveUy, but a great portion U rich, and the prairiea are weU 
 clothed with luxuriant graw. Among the plantt, herb., &c., 
 common to thi. part of the country, i. wUd flax. 
 
 A few claim. hVive been mad. along »»»• north^Mt a*d. of 
 the Oak hilla, and improvemenia commenced. Theaoil yiewa 
 . good crop of the agricultural produoU auited to »»»• o''™* J; 
 Above the Santa Anna, upon the eaatern aide of the Wtlla- 
 mette. the vaUey ia about twenty milea in average widUi lor 
 SneT; mile.. uTthe three fork.. In thi. diaUnce there a«, 
 SHJ/small mountain atreama, crcalng the vril^r ^ tH. nvor. 
 aU of which are lined with timber, and aeveral of them aflisrU- 
 
VER 
 
 I milU wera lold. m 
 1 the valley, by Mr. 
 niwionary maitera in 
 idriit oitizeni, und in 
 vn is laid out. 
 nces a range of oak 
 ■ in * aouih-eastern 
 nnect by a low pasa 
 e, at the lower bench 
 nge of hills, running 
 wenty milea in length, 
 Inch joinathe W ilia- 
 Institute. This is I 
 ndred and fifty y«rds 
 i iu lenf in, U has a 
 fir »..r* white cedar 
 
 ranches, with several 
 laving a ttrip of beau- 
 one-half to four miles 
 rise iu Mount Jeffer^ 
 iu origin to where it 
 > the aouth for a few 
 i; from this junction 
 earn that rises in the 
 m. Tan miles below 
 hich rises still further 
 sn the river iodines to 
 , From its origin in 
 lOttt forty miles ; from 
 re miles. 
 
 a thie valley ia quite 
 d the prairies are well 
 ihe planu, herbs, &e., 
 I wild flax. 
 
 the north-east side of 
 snced. The soil yields 
 I suilml to the climate, 
 tern aide of the Willa- 
 I in average width for 
 thia diaUnee there are 
 
 the valley to the river, 
 several of them afford- 
 
 TNK ROTRY MOI/NTAINH. ff 
 
 Ing valuable water privileges for lurh machinery as may b« 
 erected, when yankee enterpriio ihall have aettlcd and im« 
 proved this ili-airable portion of our great rrpuhlic. 
 
 After leaving the BanUam, a pmirie commences, of front 
 tour to twelve miles in width, which continues up the valley 
 for a day'a travel, which I suppose to be about forty miles. 
 The mountain)) upon the east sitle of the Willamette are cov- 
 ered with timber of quite large growth. In this last prairie 
 has been found some stone coal, near the base of the mountain 
 spurs ; but ns to quantity or quality I am uninformed. The 
 specimen tried by a blackamith was by him ptono)iuced to b« 
 goml. 
 
 The Willamette valley, including the first plateaus of the 
 Cascade and Coast ranges of moantaina, may be said to aver- 
 age a width of about sixty, and a length of about two hundred 
 miles. It i« beautifully diversified with timber and prairie. 
 Unlike oar great prairies eaat of the Rooky Mountains, those 
 upon the waters of the Pacific are quite small ; instead of dull 
 and sluggish streams, to engender miasma to disgust and disease 
 man, those of this valley generally run quite rapidly, freeing 
 the country of such vegetable matter as may fall into them, and 
 are capable of being made subservient to the will and comfort 
 of the human family in propelling machinery. Their banka 
 are genemlly lined with fine groves of timber for purposes of 
 utility, and adding much to picase the eye. 
 
 The Willamette itaelf, throughout its length, has generally a 
 growth of fir and while cedar, averaging from one-fourth to 
 three milee in width, which are valuable hoth for agricultural 
 and commercial purposes. Its banks are generally about 
 twenty feet above the middling atages, yet there are some low 
 ravines, (in the country called «/ue«.) which are filled with 
 water during freshets, and at these points the bottoms are 
 overflowed ; but nut more ao than those upon the rivera eaat 
 of the Misaissippi. It has been already observed that the soil 
 in these bottoms and in the prairies is very rich ; it is a black 
 alluvial depotfite of muck and loam ; in the timbered portions 
 it is more inclined to be sandy, and ihe higher ground ia of a 
 reddish colored rJay and loam. 
 
 The whole seems to be very productive, especially of wheat, 
 for which it can be aafely aaid. that it ia not excelled by 
 any portion of the continent. The yield of thia article has 
 frequently been fifty burhels per acre, and in one ease Dr. 
 White harvested from ten aerea an average of over fifly-foar 
 
100 
 
 JOURNAL or TRAVIUJ» OVER 
 
 buiheli u» th« tor. , 'out »he mo.t common "''P;'/""" ''"'2 
 10 forty b»iih«la p«r mm, of f-U •»wm8} •«*> «f "o™ '*«"'y 
 to twrnty-five bu»hel», from •pring mwioi. 
 
 Th«re U one peculi.riiy .Lout th, wh«U tnd whathj U 
 
 iriae. from th« «l.m.t« or «ri.ly. I tm un.ble to d*^""'"^ 
 
 The •imw. ii..u.ttd of being hollow u in *• ^"'""^ •JJ?? 
 
 U filled with a medullary eubeuince. (commonly "»«* P'|"') 
 
 which Hivet it firmnaw iind etrengih; hence it le rirely that 
 
 the wheat from wind or rain lodge, or falU before h"»«^nf- 
 
 The .traw i. about the height of thai grown in »»»« lUtoa. "J* 
 
 wayt bri«Ut.the hoada upon it are much longer, and ftlW with 
 
 large grain*, more rounded in their form. Uian thoao harretted 
 
 in the eaatern part of the Union. I ha»e aMn anwnd fle da. 
 
 where a aingle grain ha> grown to 'n«i"'»y^/^ri**jrS 
 
 each of which appeared to hare borne a well fiUed headj for 
 
 U.e grain, were either romoTed by bird., or wot. other eaoM. 
 
 Kb Ft wa. November when 1 arrive'' "> *• '^""''y'l,"* 
 
 wheat only in iU grawy .tale, except what had eacap^i tin 
 
 ^^Thrfwrner. haw a white bald wheat. Ui« white beanW, 
 and the red bearded, either of which c«i be wwn ui faU or 
 ■pring. a. beat auit. their convenience, or their "«««••»"•?'??" 
 manJ! Tiiat .own in September. October or No^mber. yirid. 
 the moet abundanUy; but if .own any ume before the middle 
 of May. it will ripen. The time of harveaung i. ?'«?«';»•»?« 
 to the .eed Ume.*^ That which i. early .own - '^/ f«' »^ 
 cradle or .ickle by the l«.t of June, or f • J"» °f ^"'y;,J»f 
 the luteal about the fir.t of September. In the Oregon »aUey. 
 there are but few rain, in the .ummer «'««>^^";,"'J„" .** 
 wheat aund. up very well, farmer, are generally but Utt>« 
 
 hurried with their harvealing. 
 
 The emigranu unially arrive in the Utter part of the ram- 
 mer or fall! and neccMirily firat provide a f h«l«f ' /«' J«f 
 familie.. and then turn their attenuon to putung in a field of 
 wheat. In doin. thi.. they frequenUy torn under the jod with 
 the plough one day, the next harrow the ground ««»«••"»« "fj* 
 
 their ae^. and afier going over it T'^*.'*J^i!!f^J!IJl. i£ 
 the harYe.t.and not unfrequenUy gaJier forty buahol. fro« the 
 •ere thu. wwn. In aeveral in.unc.. the M«ond crop hu 
 been garnered from the one aowing. When the wheahM 
 
 rtoodTor cutting untd very ripe, •n«l^fl«»'««i *Tw'*^^ 
 the gathering, the aeed ihu. acattered over the fieM hwibMO 
 harrowed under, add yielded twenty bu.heU to the aci», of 
 
 L 
 
_l 
 
 \tr.n 
 
 n crop i« fro"* ihirty 
 ; tiid of from tw«nt]r 
 
 heat, tnd whalher it 
 unablfl to daurmint. 
 n ih« Allanuo itatM, 
 inmonlv ctll«d pith.) 
 heoM It it nr«ly thmt 
 ilU before harvwtinf. 
 own in ih«i lUta*, m- 
 longvr. wd fillod with 
 , ilun llioie harrMted 
 re seen aroand flelda, 
 rity, fortjr-two alalka, 
 I well Ailed head: for 
 , or aome other eaoee. 
 in the country, I aaw 
 what had eacaped the 
 
 at, the whiu bearded, 
 an be aown in fall or 
 or their neeeaaitiee de* 
 er or November, yielda 
 lime before ih« middle 
 veaiing ia proportioned 
 r aown ia r^ady for the 
 the firat of July, and 
 In the Oregon valley, 
 er moatha, and aa the 
 ue generally but UtOa 
 
 latter part of the ram* 
 tide a aheller for their 
 
 to putting in a field of 
 :orn under the aod with 
 B ground onoe, then aow 
 ,n with a harrow, await 
 r forty buahela fron the 
 ■ the aecond erup haa 
 When the wheat haa 
 battered oonaiderably ia 
 
 over the field haa bMO 
 buahela U» the aei«. of 
 
 •nnt nortr Morfn-Atwii 
 
 Ml 
 
 good merrhnntaWe grain. 1 waa told of an Inatanre where a 
 ihlrd crop waa aimed at in thia way \ it yieldfiJ but aboul 
 twelve buahela to an acre, and wafl of a poor quality. 
 
 The ruit and nmul which ao often bUat the hopea of th« 
 farmer, in th« old itatea, are unknown in Oregon, and ao far 
 there ia but very little cheat. 
 
 Ilarveating ia generally done with eradlea, Hnd the grain 
 Ihreahed out with horaea, there being no machinea for thia lat 
 ter purpoee in the territory. 
 
 The grain of the wheat, though much larger than in the 
 alalee, haa a very thin huak or bran, and in iia manufacture it 
 that country during the winter montha requirea a coaricr bolt 
 ing cloth than in the Atlantic autea, owing to the dampneaa a 
 the atmoaph>;re at thia aeaaon. 
 
 The ftrmera already raiae a aurplua of thia commodity, ovei 
 and above the conaumption of the country : bat owing to the 
 aeareity of railla to manalactnre it. they cannot at all tiraee 
 have it in readineae to anpply veaaela when they viait the ael- 
 lltmenia. At the time I left, wheat waa worth eighty cenlfl 
 per boahel, and Hoar three dolUra and fiOy centa per hundred 
 poanda. The milla above the Falla grind for a toil of one-eighth, 
 bat at the Falla they will exchan^ for wheat, giving thi.ly-aix 
 poanda of fine flour for an Anieriran bu«hel. and forty pounds 
 for a royal buahel. The weight of a bushel of wheat, (accord* 
 ing to qoallt-,) ia from aixly to aevcnly pounda. 
 
 OaU yiel j an abundant crop, bat thia grain ia aeldom aown, 
 aa the atock ia generally luflered to gather ita auppirt by gras- 
 iogover the plaina. 
 
 I»eae do well, and are much uaed in feeding hoga, a\ tlit 
 eloee of their fattening, when taken olT of their range of caijuaa 
 and other roota; and it ia remarked that this vegetable there ia 
 free from the bug or wevil that infeeta it in the weatern aUtea. 
 Barley ie very prolific, and of a large and aound growth ; 
 b«t thei* ia aa yet little raiaed, aa the demand for it ia quite 
 limited. „ 
 
 I e«w no rye in the country. Bnckwheat grew very well, 
 Ihoi^ not mneh raiaed. 
 
 For petiloee Oregon ia aa nnequalled, by the atates, aa it u 
 for wheat. I doubt whether there ia any portion of the globe 
 iUBOTior to it for the cultivation of thia dmnat indiapenaabia 
 vegetable. I heard of no aweet potatoea. and think there are 
 none in tlie territory. 
 iDdiin eon ia raiaed to aomo extent upon the lower bottoms 
 
 1 
 
IM 
 
 iOVWKL or TRAVKUI OVM 
 
 in Jh« va!!ey9. but il !• not eorwidfred • good corn eounliy 
 It hud ykl<l«l forty buiheU U) ih« 8cr«; U»«y motily pUnl lh« 
 •mall «igh(-rowed yiinke« corn. The •umm«r« ara Um c«k)1 
 for corn. Tob»«o haa btmn lri«d j and alUioiw h il may b« 
 nia«d to aoma aitant, it ia lightur than io Kantacky, and mor* 
 •ouihern Uutudea. Tha climate and toil ara admirably adapted 
 to the cult4iro of flax and Iwmp, and to all other vafetablae. 
 which grow wi»h ordinary care, in any of the norliiaru, eaatern 
 and middle alalea. 
 
 During my Iravala ihrongh tha valley, I "ptnt aoiae Um» 
 with Mr. Joel Walker, a gentleman who had rwiided aararal 
 yeara in California, had made aflweiml trip* from Oregon to tha 
 bay of Juan Franciaco, and had apent aome time in Uapping 
 and trading iM-lwe.-n the Wdlamelte valley and the 42d d». 
 gree of north latitude. From ihia gendaman, aa well ae from 
 •everal otht'ra,,| learned that the trad near two hundred milee 
 •outh of Oregon city arrivea at the California maunlaina, 
 whinh ia a ridga running from the Ca««d« to the Coaat range 
 of mounlaina. With the exception of a few pmka, thie ridg* 
 ia aoaceptible of ea»y cultivation, being parUy prairie and partly 
 covered with timber. Mr. Walker doubu not that a good 
 wagon road can be made over thla ridge; to crow which re- 
 quiree but a few houre, and bringa ua into the beauuful Mun- 
 uy boundod on the eaat and weat by the Caaeade and Com! 
 rangea, ihe California mounUiina on the north, and the Rogue • 
 River mountaina on the eouth. 
 
 Thia diatricl of country, which ia only about fdrty mUee 
 wide from eut to weat, ia drained by the Umpquth river, and 
 ita tributoriea, which aa in the Willamette valley, are akuted 
 with timber ; but back from the atreama ia a praine country, 
 beautifully alternated with grovee of timber. 
 
 At the mouth of the Uropquah, which emptiea lolo the P*. 
 cifio about thirty milea from where it leavea thia beautiful dia- 
 irict of country, the Hudaon'a Bav Compuny have a trading 
 poaU If we except thia, there la no aettlement nor claim 
 made on thia river or ita tributariea. Paaeinf Kogua'a Rivar 
 mounuina, the trail entera the valley of the river of that name. 
 Thia valley ia quite aimilar to that of the Umpqunh, but par- 
 hapa not quite ao large. Thia valley ia bounded on the aouth 
 by the Klamet mounuin, which ia a apur of the Caaeade and 
 Coaat mounuina. It ia high and aomewhai difficult to oaaa 
 over ; but it ia believed a route may be found that will aJ«ml 
 of an eaay paaaage over. It is heavily timbered ; and aa n 
 
run 
 
 food corn eounlry 
 «iy nuMily iiUnl lh« 
 nmnrs tre Uio cool 
 hIUioiicIi it may b« 
 Kentucky, and mora 
 
 • Mimirsbly Mlaptad 
 ill other vcgetablM. 
 ,ha norllierii, euuini 
 
 I spent tone Urns 
 had raaidod several 
 I from Uregun to the 
 ne time in Uapping 
 sy and the 43d d*- 
 nan, as well as from 
 r two hundred miles 
 alifornia mountains, 
 
 • to the Coast range 
 Pew peaks, this ridge 
 Uy prairie and partly 
 bU not that a good 
 ; to crosc which re> 
 > the beautiful ooun* 
 I Cascade and Coast 
 trth, and the Kogue'i 
 
 ly about fdrty milee 
 Uropquah river, and 
 le valley, are skuted 
 I is a prairie country. 
 t>er. 
 
 empties into the Par 
 res this beautiful dis* 
 ipkny have a trading 
 lettlement nor claim 
 issing KoKue's River 
 lie river of that name, 
 e Umpquah, but per- 
 bounded on the south 
 r of the Cascade and 
 what difficult to oass 
 uund that will aJmil 
 timbered; and as >t 
 
 TM» •OCTIY MOUNTAIWk 
 
 tM 
 
 the Coast r»ng«, the timber in many places has died, and a 
 Uitck growih of un<leri»rUih sprung up. 
 
 Houth of the KUmitt mountains spreads out the beauurul 
 vttllry wrtlarrd by tlifl Klamet river. This valley, although no! 
 so well kn..wn as that of the Willamette, is supposed to b« 
 more eiteiisive. and *<|u«lly ■u.reptible of a high atate of 
 culuvation. It is eslemnfld one of ihc best portions of l>r<TP>n. 
 The Und is mosUy prairie, but is well dirsrsilied wliii timl)«r, 
 «nd bountifully supplied with spring branches. fThe Indians 
 .re more numerous here than in the valley ftirther north, and 
 aa in the Umpquah and Rogue's river valleya, more hostile. 
 There hss been very lilUe trading with th«m i but Ihsy not 
 unfrequenily attack persons driving catilo througli from r«H- 
 fomia to the settlemenw in Oregon } and although none of the 
 drivers have been killed for several years, they have lost num. 
 bers of their cattle. Before these valleva can be ssfely selUed, 
 poeta must be established to protaot the inhabitanta from th« 
 depredations of these merciless savages. / 
 
 A settlement of about a doaeu fnmdiee has been made upon 
 Clatsop plains. This is a strip of open land, about a mlla in 
 width, extending from the eouih end of Point Adaraa or Clal- 
 sop Point, at the mouth of the Columbia river, about twenty 
 mi^es slong the margin of the ocean, in the direction of Capa 
 liook-out. It appears to have been formed by the washing oT 
 the waters. Ridgee resembling the waves of the ocean eitwitl 
 from north to eooth throughout tha entire length of the plains. 
 These ridgee are from twelve to twenty-five feet high, and in 
 some pIsMS not more than fifty feet, but at other points as 
 much aa three hundred yards asunder. That along the coast 
 is the bluest and leaei fertile, as it seems to be of more recent 
 formation. The soil is composed of vegetable matter and 
 sand, and produces grass more abundantly than the valleys 
 above 5 the spray and dampness of the ocean keeping the grass 
 green all the year. The Und is not so good for fall wheal m 
 in the upper country, but the settlers raise twenty-five bushels 
 of spring wheat to the acre. I think it better for root crops 
 than the valleys alove. In the roar of the plains, or about a 
 mile from t.«o shore, is a body of land heavily dn»h«Md with 
 hemlock and spruce, whith is tell and straight, and splite freely. 
 Near the Umber a marsh of some two hundred yards in width 
 extends neariy the entire length of thp plaine. This marsh ii 
 covered with the low kind of cranberries. ' 
 
 A ■treain some wa or twelve yarda in width cnten the plaina 
 
104 
 
 JOOlUf AL OF TIUTtliS flIVTn 
 
 »t the wuth end, runi' ♦en or tweWe milee ooi'*., when it turns 
 (0 Uie went, end Bftcf paseing through two of the ridgce, tikee 
 » eoutherly diraction and entere Uie b»y that leta up between 
 the Plain* and Capo Lookout, not mom than ten ruda from lit 
 entranee into the Plaint. Here a dam ia built acroaa the 
 •Ueam. and the cluraant ia erecting a flouring mill. 
 
 On theae plaina the claima an« Uken half a mile in width on 
 the ooaat, and extending back two mileaf each claimant there- 
 fore having a fair proportion of prairie and timber laadtbeaidea 
 a glorioua cranberry patch, , . . . j 
 
 Soma fifteen mUea eouth-eaal of Cav>6 lookout, standi • 
 pttk of the Coaat range, called Saddle Mountain; and the cape 
 M a apur or ridge eztonding .Vom this mounuin some two or 
 tree miles outinto the ocean. Artmnd the head of the bey, 
 immediately north of Capo Lodiout, ia a body of severai tho«H 
 sand acres of timber land. The sott is grH>t<, bii» most of it to 
 hearily timbered that it would renire much labour t& premra 
 it for fitrmin;. Bat as the strekoS irom im moantain afford 
 an abundance of water power, it would be an easy matter to 
 manufacture th^ timber mto lumber, for which there is a good 
 matket for shipping, and thus make the bearing of the land 
 for eultifatioB a profitable business. 
 
 Alont Uie f.«oast from Cspe Lookout to thtt 43d parallel there 
 is much land *»♦ can be cuW»at«i; and even the nountains, 
 when fleawd ol the heavy bodies of timber with whkh ther 
 are clothed. wiU be good farming land. There is no much 
 pitch in th« timber that it buras very freely j sitoetimee » 
 men etanding tree set on fire wiU aU be ocasom«l| S3 *»♦ 
 ft is aitofether a mistaken idee that the timber lende of the 
 eoonur^ BPrer be ^.ultivated. I am fiiU^ of the opmkm that 
 iwo-thu^ of the ooontry hetwewi the Wdtamette wU«3r «« 
 the ooes;, and extending from tUe Cotambia nwtta tht iorty 
 •ticond parallel whieh inelndee the Coeat fuiie of moontrc* 
 oanbeauceetaftiUyeMiava^d. Thia region abenods w valua. 
 abto cedar, hemleek aad fir Umber, is well wf < i. P»'«"w 
 a fertile soii, nd being on tho coast, it ▼# «ys Iwve the 
 ad«atMeaf*|ood«arke<;fcrtheit»tMKii ^tecuadmgs 
 oeniiothB h«I Song the oou^ betwe« PoTH dmmdaad the 
 Hevof SenFrM«cis*»,«i«slto|«her«nwMOi». Ndjtoeotlonj 
 the'range -would be mere tbia thirty miles from naitot; ai«l 
 the di&cnlty of eonstraetkag roads «m tati thwqgk thie imm 
 woukl be tifling. oo«iSf!3 with tha» of ew-lriietiBf «i»^ 
 
 9L 
 
I iioi'4.,when it turns 
 
 of the ridgei. takM 
 that lets up between 
 ihan (en ruda from iu 
 
 1 ia built aoroaa tha 
 ■ring mill. 
 
 i]f a mile in width on 
 
 each claimant there- 
 
 d timber land, beaides 
 
 ft Lookout, standi • 
 Duntaint andtheeape 
 lountain some two or 
 
 the head of the bay. 
 
 body of several thoo- 
 r<«ot), bi&f most of it so 
 looh labour U« prepare 
 I tn« mountain anord 
 be an eaajr matter to 
 which there is a food 
 a elearing of the land 
 
 the 43d paralM there 
 id even the aounteinst 
 ■bet with whkh ther 
 . There ia no mweh 
 r {Ki!>ljr( sometimea * 
 be eciisameii S9 iha* 
 B timber lend* of the 
 bUroftbeoj^'mtbat 
 Wdhmetie valley and 
 abia river to dM ibr^ 
 ist ranie of moantrcik 
 gh>nMeiiDds in valua> 
 vellvf < i» por:eesss 
 I jfjF xyv b«ve the 
 ktemvv ^tsewidiiige 
 I PngvH idoond aoA the 
 oaeooe. N0;pla«otkm| 
 11m fionnariBsl; and 
 ante thmgi thie iMf* 
 of munnei&tig tiaibm 
 
 THK UOCKY MOUNTA«?«. 
 
 The country about Cape Lookout is inhabited by a tribe of 
 Indians called the Kilamooks. They are a laxy and filthy set 
 of beinsAVho live chiefly on fish and hemes, of which there 
 is here a great abundance. ^'^They have a tradiUon among them 
 that a long •ime ago the Great Spirit became angry with thwn, 
 ■et the mounuin on fire, destroyed their towns, turned tfieir 
 ftVe (chief) and tUieum$ (people) into ktone, and cast them 
 .nthi ocean outaide of Cape Lookout; that the G.-eatSpmt 
 becoming appeased, removed the fire to Saddle Mountain, and 
 aubsequwaV to the Sawhle lUaht (high monnUin,) or Mount 
 Remier, aa it is called by the whites, on the north side of the 
 
 Columbia river. . « w i. . • . u- 
 
 In the ocean about a mile weat of Cape Lookout, is to be 
 seen at high water a solitary rock, which they eall Kilamook i 
 Head, after the ehief of the tribe. Around thia roek for hatf • 
 mik in every direction may be seen at low water dlveia other 
 reeks, which are cf "led the HHeunu, (people) « Uie tribe. At 
 low water is to be aeen a eavity passing quite through Kda. 
 mook's Hesd, giving Uie rock th* appearance of a tcM stone 
 amh 
 
 In support of thta tradition, the appearance of the promontdry 
 of Cape Lookout indicates that it may be the remains ol an 
 eitinct volcano ! and on Saddle Mountain there ia an ancient 
 crater, several hundred feet deep; while Mount Regnier is -tUI 
 a volcano. Thoie who have visited the roeky cliffii of Oape 
 Lookout, report that there ie aome singular carving upon the 
 ledges, resembling more the hieroglyphics of the Chmese, thui 
 any thiiMf they have aeen elsewhere. 
 
 These Indians have another tradition, that five white men, 
 
 or, Bs :heT eatt them, jwle facea, came ashore on thia pomt 
 
 of rock, and buried something in the cliffa, whi«di have sinoe 
 
 ftUen down and buried the article deep in the iweks; that 
 
 dMse pale faees took oft the Indian women, and raised « n* 
 
 Hon of pecpJe, who atili inhabit the letion to the eooth. And 
 
 I have met with traveler* who aay they have aeen a raw of 
 
 '-eoete in tiiat region, whoee aroearaaM would aoem to ind>> 
 
 Mte that they nay have seme Eniwpeaii blood m their vews. 
 
 A reasonable eonjeoture ia, that a vwwel may have been cast 
 
 »nr upon the coast, and that theee five men «»*P«' *»^*3apji 
 
 iAokootT Another drcnmataneerendesa It probaWettatauch 
 
 nMit have beci. the ease. Freqoenily, aftat a long and heavy 
 
 Mfth westariy atorm, large cakes of beea.wax,ftom two to 
 
 am iMhM tbiek, and fiwn twelve to eigbtaen nefaaa m dia» 
 
 Mtit ^m *—* ■*» ! ■> — 
 
 «-» 
 
106 
 
 JOUItNAIi or TIUVBLS OVBB 
 
 W^ 
 
 eter, «re found nlong the beach, near the aoulh end of CUtaoo 
 PUina. The cakea when found are covered with a kind of 
 aea-moas, and amaU abella adhere to them, indicating that they 
 have been a long time under water. 
 
 In or about Saddle Mountain riaea a atream called Bkipe- 
 ncin'a river, which, though extremely crooked, runa nearly 
 north, =nd eropiiea into the weetem aide of Young a bay, 
 which, it will be remembered, ia a large body of water extend- 
 inc aouth from the Columbia river between Point Adama and 
 Aiioria. Between thia river and Clataop plaina la a atrip of 
 thick apruee and hemlock, with several low marahea. IM 
 landini for Clataop plaina ia about two milea up the nver j 
 which it ia rather «liffioult to foUow, aa there are many f/oM 
 patlinK in from either aide, of equal width with the mein 
 Mream. From the bay a low marahy bottom «>x)«>«l» "P ^ 
 the landing, covered with ruahea and aea-graaa. fhie bottom 
 is overflowed oppoaile the landing at high water. Between 
 the landiiw and Clataop plaina ia a lake one or two miJM 
 in length, which haa iu ouUet into the bay. »j banka are 
 biffh, and covered with apruoe. Near thia is a atream, from 
 the mouth of which it ia about two or »«>"• m»l«« "««« »• 
 bay to the creek upon which Lewia and Clark wintered; 
 aad thence about three and a half mUea to the heed of tlje 
 bay whew Young'a river entera. . . , -* ^ 
 
 Young's river la a etieam about one hundred and fifty yards 
 in width, and ia navigable for ateamboats and amal •lopP* »« 
 the forka, aix or aeven roUes up. Abooi seven miles further 
 up are the " FaUa," where the water pitchea over a l«dp or 
 voekM, making a Wl of about aixty feet. Around the falU the 
 mountains an covered with heavy Umber. Near the forka 
 the river reeeivee bom tho eaat a small stream, upon which a 
 machine for making ahlnglee has been erected; and as Ae 
 timber in the vicinity is «Md ftw shingles, which can be readdy 
 add for the Sandwich fitrfinda marke% the owners ««!»««» ^ 
 do ■ piofileble business. Young's river rwes in or near Sad- 
 die mountain. From the mouth of ihU nver it is abwt eight 
 or ten miles, around the point which forms on the east Young a 
 Bay. to Aaloria, or Fort George, as it is caUed by ^the HuJ 
 aon'a Bay Company. This stands on the south side of tbf 
 CoLambia tiver, about aixteen miles from ita mouth. J 
 
 The Columbia mer and ita location have been so often dOt 
 aeribed, 4hat it U hardly neceaaary for roe to go into detaU*. 
 IkA aa thia.mrk k dtfaignedtote afforded ap low jM to pia$f 
 
 r 
 
)VKR 
 
 louth end of CUtaop 
 rered with a kind of 
 I, indicating that they 
 
 ■tream called Skip*- 
 :rooked, runs nearly 
 de of Young's bay. 
 tody of water extend- 
 Ben Point Adams and 
 p plain* is a atrip of 
 
 low marahes. The 
 I miles up the river; 
 there are nuny »lua 
 ridlh with the main 
 lotton) tiXtende op to 
 -graaa. This bottom 
 iigh water. Between 
 ke one or two miles 
 
 bay. T'-s banks are 
 this is a streami from 
 hree miles along the 
 md Clark wintered; 
 M to the head of the 
 
 andred and fifty yards 
 Is and small sloops to 
 i seven miles farther 
 tches over a ledge of 
 
 Around the falto the 
 bat. Near the forka 
 stream, upon which a 
 
 erected; and as the 
 I, which can be readily 
 the owners expect to 
 ■ riMts in or near Sad* 
 I river it is about eight 
 OS on the east Young's 
 is called by tb* Hudp 
 
 the south aide of th« 
 m its mouih. . 
 Uve been so ofieo dfH 
 me to go into details, 
 rdad ao tow iw to pla$e 
 
 THB ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 ivr 
 
 It within the reach of every one, and may fall into the hands of 
 many whose mean* will not enable them to procure expensive 
 works on Oregon, it may not be amiss to say .omeilnng about 
 that noble stream, which discharges its waters into the ocean be- 
 iween cape Disappointment on the north, and point Adams or 
 Clatsop point on the aouth, snd in latiUide about 40° 16 north. 
 At its mouih the Columbia is narrowed to about six miles m 
 width by cape Disappointment extending in a south west 
 direction far out into the stream, the cape being washed on the 
 west side by the ocean. Cape Diaappointment and Chinook 
 point, a few miles above it, form Baker'a bay, which afford, 
 ffood anchorage for vessels as soon as they round the point. 
 This cape presents a rocky shore, is quite high, and covered 
 with timber. An American had token it as his land claim, ae> 
 ttMding to the laws of the territory ; but during the laat win- 
 ter. he sold his right to Mr. Ogden, then one of the principal 
 factors, but *ow Governor of Ui* Hudson's Bay Company m 
 Oregon, for one thousand dollars. A fortification on this cspe 
 would command the entrance of the river by the northern 
 channel, which is immediately around the poiat, and as it is 
 aaid, not more than half a mile in width. _ 
 
 Point Adams, the southern eape of the Columbia, is a litU* 
 above «ap6 Disappointment It is low and ewidy, and coii- 
 Unnes a sand ridge fear milea to Clatsop plains. 1 his pomt, 
 and the high ground at Astoria, as before alated, form Young s 
 bay, near which the ridge is covered with timber. Near 
 pmat Adams is tbe southern uhannel ot entrance into the Co- 
 lumbia, which tt thought to be preferable to the noithem chan- 
 nel; and I think either of them much better Uian heretofore 
 represented. In each there is a aofficiency of water to float 
 any aiaed vessel. With the advantages of light houses, buoys, 
 and skUlfttl pilots, which the increasing commerce of the conn- 
 try must soon secure, the harbor at the mouth of the Colum- 
 bia wouW compare well with those on the Atlantic coast; and 
 I ttuiy any that it would be superior to many of them. ^ 
 
 As w* sacend, Astoria occupies probably the first suitable 
 nt* for a town. It stands upon a gradual slope, whidi extends 
 fiwB the bank of die river up to the mountain. The Umbwr 
 was once taken off of s«me forty or fifty acres here, which, 
 eieent rf>ottt twenty seres, has since been suffered to grow up 
 •CidD, and it is noW a thicket of spruce and bnais. Five or 
 ata M dilapidated buildings, which ate occupied by the Hud- 
 MB'a B*y Companyrwholuve a smaU stock of goods for lr» 
 
108 
 
 JOORIf AL or T1UV«M OTCT 
 
 dinf with the nativea, and a few old looking lodges upon <h« 
 bank of the river, fiUed with greaay, filthy Indiana, conititui* 
 Astoria. 
 
 The peraon in charge of this eatabliahmmt, whoaa name ii 
 Bimey, aeema to be a diatant, haughty, aulky fellow, whoee 
 demeanor »nd looke belie the charaeter generally given lo • 
 moanuineer or backwoodsman. Aa evidence of hie real chap, 
 aoior, I will aute one cirenmsUnoe as il was related to me by 
 persons residing in the vicinity of the place. During the 
 summer or fall, whUe the Britlah war vessel Modeit« wae 
 lying at Astoria, one of the saikire fell overboard and WM 
 drowned. Search wae made, bat his body could not bo found- 
 Several weeke aAerwarda the body of ■ nan wae found upon 
 the ahore, s short distance ebove Aatoria. Infomwdon wai 
 immediately communicated to Bimey, who promised to giv« 
 the body a deeent burial. About two weeks sAer ihia, some 
 Indians travelUng along the ebore, attracted to the place by m 
 disagrewble seent and the number of buiMrde erdlected to* 
 gether, discovered the body of a man moeh mangM, and In 
 a Slate of putrefretion. They informed two white men, 
 Traak. and Duncan, who immediatelv made enquiry as to 
 whether the body found on the beech previouely had been 
 buried, and received for anawer from Bimev, that it wm no 
 cMMfrymm (^M$,butU wot lUttfy one of tka Uif •^grja^* 
 fromthe Stottt that had btm dn»im»d ta tk» Ca$eade IiiU$. 
 Trask and Duncan prooeeded to bury the body, and found it 
 to be in the garb of a British eailor or marine. Thia, to aay 
 the least, was carrying natkMial prejudice a little too iar. 
 
 Near Astoria, aad along the river, eeveral daima have bewi 
 tnk^ and eommeneementa made at improving. Anehorage 
 may be had near the ahore. Three milee above Astoria k 
 Tongue point, a nanow roekr ridge some three hundred foet 
 high, putthig out about a mile into the river ; but at Om neek 
 it M low and not more than two hundred yards aecoea. Tha 
 two channels of the river unite below thie point. Oppaaite 
 is Gray'a bay, a large, beautifiil sheet of Water, of auAeient 
 depdi to float shipa. Above and on th* aeatk side of the river 
 ia Swan bay, a large eheet af wateiv though •hallow, pi ssen t 
 iiw nnmerwie bare et tow tidea. A dMpdiamMi has been 
 eut through thie bay, whieh afbrda aa eatiaaee into a aMa 
 that eomee in from the eovdi, about two hnndrtd yards wide, 
 aad fi«m appearmwe is navigable eoma diMaaee np. b tMo 
 visfadty ihawhelaoMatryincovandwithlNtvytimbar. b 
 
I OTEH 
 
 king lodges upon <hii 
 thy IndUtw. conitilul* 
 
 immt, whota name m 
 , aulky fallow, whoae 
 ir ganarally given to • 
 danoe of hie real char* 
 I wae related to me by 
 I place. During the 
 Tesael ModeatA wae 
 U oTerboard and wai 
 dy could not be found- 
 I BMB wae found upon 
 ria. Inforawtion wai 
 who promiaed to give 
 (reeke after thia, aomo 
 icted to the place by « 
 buiMrde erulecled to* 
 nueh mangled, and in 
 med two white men, 
 r made enquiry aa to 
 t previouely had been 
 Bimev, that it unm no 
 taftkt ktt *migrmt$ 
 iMtHuCa$eadeHM$, 
 (he body, and found it 
 narine. 'fhie, to aay 
 M a little too iar. 
 venl elaime have bem 
 nproving. Anehoran 
 nilee above Aeloria m 
 «B« three hundred (bet 
 river ; but at die neek 
 ed yarda aeraea. The 
 thie peint Oppoeila 
 of Water, of ewfieient 
 I loutk aide of the tiver 
 leugli ahallow, pe aee nlu 
 deep dtaanal hae been 
 eatiaaea into n m ea t 
 ro hundred yarda wide* 
 le dietonee up. In tliie^ 
 witb banvy Unbar. In 
 
 TtlR ROCKY MOKKTrAlNS. 
 
 t(N» 
 
 the indentation in the mountain rjinga aouth of the river, there 
 ■eem« to be large acopea of good rich land, which would pro- 
 duce well if cleared of limber. From Tongue point acroaa 
 Gray'a bay to Caulamet point is about sixteen miles. Bma t 
 crafi are frequently compelled to run the aouihern channel, 
 'naide of a cluater of ialands called CaUlamot laUnds, which 
 passes " old Catalamet town," as it is called, a point where 
 bnee stood an Indian village. Four or five cUima have been 
 Uken he?e, but none of them have been impioved. A abort 
 distanco from the river are several beautiful prairies, sur- 
 rounded with heavy timber. A amaU alream entera here, 
 which aibrds water power a short distance up. 
 
 A few milea above old Catalamet town, near the top of the 
 Muff, about four hundred yarda from the Columbia, atande 
 Wilaon ^ Hunt's aaw miU, which ia driven by a amaU atrram 
 coming down from the mountain; after leaving the whert tb* 
 atream falls about sixty ieet, striking tide water below. A sluice 
 or platlbrm ie eo eonstruetod as to convey the lumber from the 
 milTto the level below, where it ie loaded into boaU and 
 run out to the river, where it can bei loaded into vessela. 
 
 Upon our arrival at thU pkoe, the bark Toulon was lymf 
 at anchor, about fifty vaids from the shore, taking m a eargo 
 of lumber for the Sandwich Islanda, to which ahe ejpectod to 
 eaUinafowdaya. This wae early in lanuary, but from aome 
 cause ahe did not leave the mouth of the river until the last of 
 
 February. l l t 
 
 In the vicinity of the mill thiere ie eome better timber than I 
 have seen in any other part of tiie eounlry. The Umet tnee 
 are about seven feet in diameter, and neariy three hundred feet 
 high t the usual aise, however, ia from eighteen inehee to three 
 feet diameter, and about two hundred feet high. 
 
 The country elopes up from the mill gradually, for eeverai 
 mUea, and is susceptible of eaay cultivation ; the eoil le some- 
 what aandv, and has tiw appearance of being good. 
 
 In leaving thie {daee, we atruck diroeUy acroee the nver, 
 which is here over two miles wide. Upon the nordi side, 
 ahnoet oimesae to the mill, is a daim held by Bimey, of As< 
 toria, who has ma-ie an effort at improvement by cutting timber 
 and rmaing the H^ of a cabin. At diia place a rooky bluff 
 eemmeoeee and i. .Snuee up *• jjw % '^u"n!!I' Z*' 
 whieh s greet nniy beautiful walerfeUe leap into the Cohimbia. 
 Thern is one aheel of water ten oc twdve feet wide, which 
 p hwy a over a preeipitoua cliff two hundred feet into the nver. 
 
no 
 
 JOURNAL OF TRAVELS OVER 
 
 •triking the water nbont thirty feet from the ba«e of the rock, 
 where there ia sufhcient depth to float ve^aela of large aize. 
 
 At the (liaiance of eight or ten milea above the mill, on the 
 •oulh aide of the river, there ia an indentation in the mountain 
 to the Bouth, and a bend in the river to the north, which forma 
 R body of bottom land aeverat milea in width, and aome ten or 
 twelve milea long, the greater part of which, except a atrip 
 varying from a quarter to half a mile in width, neit to the 
 river, ia flooded during high tidea. Thia atrip ia covered with 
 white oak and cottonwood timber. The remainder of the 
 bottom ia prairie, with ocoaaional dry ridgee running through 
 it. and the whole of it covered with graas. By throwing up 
 leveea, aa ia done upon the Atlantic ooaat, moat of iheae nn« 
 landa might be cultivated. 
 
 At the extreme aouthern point of the elbow, there cornea m 
 a Btream, the sixe of which wna not aacertained, but from ap- 
 pearaneea it ia of aufficient aiie to propel a conaiderable amount 
 of machinery. There are aeveral iaianda in the river oppoaito 
 the lower point of thia bottom, and at the northern angle the 
 Columbia ia not more than three-fouitha of a mile wide. Thie 
 ia called Oak point, and hokla oat good indocements for ■ aet- 
 tlement. There ia an Indian village half a mile below the 
 point { and oppoaile, upon the northern aide of the river, a 
 flood mill-atream, the falla being near the river, and the moun- 
 uin covered with timber. Immediately above the point, the 
 river apreada ont to one and a half or two milea ia width, and 
 having aeveral iaianda, portiona of which are covered with 
 cottonwood, oak and aah timber, the remainder being neariy 
 all prairie. From Oak point np to Vancouver, the acenery 
 very mneh reaemblea that along the Hudaon river through the 
 Caukill MounUioa, but much more grand, aa the Caacade 
 range of mountaina, and many snowcapped peaka, are in view. 
 Some portion of the way the ahore ia high rugged dim of 
 rocka, at others indentationa in the mountain leave bottoms, 
 from a quarter to three miles wide, whieh are mostly covered 
 with timber. From the lower mouth cif ^he Willamette to 
 Fort Vaneoover, the ahorea ere lined with cottonwood timber, 
 and upon the aouth aide, as far up aa the mouth «f Sandy, or 
 Quicksand river, whieh comes in at the wt^tem base of the 
 Cascade range. Rot few elaima have as yet bi n Uken aloiw 
 the Columbia, but the fishing and lumbering advantages which 
 this part of the country possesses over many others, holds ont 
 great indneements to settlers. 
 
)VBR 
 
 the bane of (h« rock, 
 niiela of hr^n size, 
 ihnve the mill, on the 
 ation in the mountain 
 le north, which forme 
 iilth, and aome ten or 
 vhich, except a strip 
 in width, next to the 
 atrip ia coTered with 
 'he remainder of the 
 ilgea running through 
 IS. By throwing up 
 at, moat of iheae An« 
 
 Blbow, there comet in 
 erUined, but from ap- 
 a conaiderable amount 
 I in the river oppoait* 
 he northern angle the 
 of a mile wide. This 
 indacements for a set- 
 alf a mile below the 
 I aide of the river, a 
 t river, and the moan' 
 r above the point, the 
 'o miles in width, and 
 lich are covered with 
 imainder being nearly 
 aneouver, the aeenery 
 dson river through the 
 rand, as the Cascade 
 tad peaks, are in view, 
 a high rugged diflfs of 
 ountain leave bottoms, 
 ieh are mostly covered 
 of <the Willamette to 
 ith eoUonwood timber, 
 le mouth of Sandy, or 
 le western base of the 
 la yet bi n Uken aloiw 
 iring advantages which 
 many others, holda out 
 
 THK ROOKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Prom Fort Vancouver, for i-everal miles down upon the north 
 side, the counlry is sufficiently level to make good farming 
 land; and the Hudson's Bay Company, or members ol the 
 compan\ . have extensive farms, with large herds of cattle. 
 Fort VanrpuvPT is one of the most beautiful sites for a town 
 upon the Columbia. It is about ninety miles from the ocean, 
 and upon the north side of the river. Large vessels can come 
 up this far. The banks of the river are here about twenty-five 
 feet high. Much of llie bottom land about the fort is inclmed 
 to be gravelly, but produces well. .. . . .^ 
 
 A party consisting of nine persons, in two row-boats, started 
 from Oregon city on the 24th of December, for Fort Vancouver, 
 and arrived there in the afternoon of the 25ih. In our party 
 was Colonel M'Clure, formerly of Indiana, and who had been 
 a member of the Oregon legislature for two y«?ars. Aa soon 
 as we landed, he made his way to the fort, whioliis about four 
 hundred yards from the shore, with the view of obtaining quar* 
 ten for the party. He soon returned and conducted na to our 
 lodgings, which were in an old cooper's shop, or rather ehed, 
 near the river. ■ , . . . , _ 
 
 Before starting we had prepared ourselves with provisions, 
 and a few cooking utansils. We set to work, and although 
 the wind and rain made it unpleasan^ we soon had a comfort- 
 able meal in readiness, and we made good use of the time untol 
 it was devoured. This was hoJyday with the servants of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company, and such ranting and frolicking has 
 perhaps aeldom been seen among the sons of men. Home 
 were engaged in gambling, some singing, some running horses, 
 manv promenadin; on the river shore, and others on the large 
 men prairie above the fort H. B. Majesty's ship of war 
 ModesU was lying at anchor about fifty yards from the ahore. 
 The sailors also seemed to be enjoying the holydays—many 
 of them were on shore promenading, and casting $heep « ro*» 
 at the fair native damsels as they strolled from wigwam to hut, 
 and from hot to wigwam, intent upon seeking for themselves 
 the greatest amount of enjoyment. At night a party waa given 
 on iKwrd the ship, and judging from the noise kept up until ten 
 at night, they were a jolly set of fellows. About this time a 
 boat came aahoro from the ship, with a «bw land lubbera roost 
 diorionsly drunk. One of them fell out of the boat, and^ hM 
 •omradea were barely abte to puH him ashore. They paesed 
 «r ehop, enrsing their ttaw for thto ill luck. 
 Wa wrapped ourselvea in our blanketo, and lay down upon 
 
k 
 
 m 
 
 JOURNAL or TRAVm* OVWI 
 
 • piU of lUfM. Th« rain wm Wlin| gently, ind w. wtw 
 •(MO Mlfiep. In th* after part of th« night, aeveral of ua wtrt 
 arousMl by a atranga noiaa among the alavea. In iho d«r"ne« 
 we diacovered acme objecla near ua, which we aiippoaeU to bu 
 hflca. We hiaaed and hallooed at ihem, to aeare ihem away. 
 They commenced grunting, and wad«»ad off, and all waa agaiu 
 quiet, and aemained ao until daylight; bat when we aroae iii 
 the morning, we found ouraeUea minua one wagon aheet, 
 which we had brought along for a aaU,our tm kettle, elghtw^a 
 or twenty pounda of meat, a butcher knife and acabbwd, one 
 Air cap. andaeferal other arUclee.all of which had been stolen 
 by th« Indiana, who had ao eiacUy imitulad the oiam«u»rea 
 of a gang of hoga. •■ mtirely to deeeive ua. 
 
 After breakfaat we wited the forU where we had an Intro- 
 dueUon to Dr. McUnghlin, the Governor of the Hudaona 
 Bay Company. He appeara to be much of a genUeman, and 
 iayil«I ue to remain durbg the day t but aa we were upon an 
 exeuraion down tho ri»er, we only remained to make a lew 
 parehaMe. which being aooompllahed. we left »»»e ptoco. 
 
 Aa before atatml, the fort aUnda upon the north bank of the 
 Columbta, aix nilee above the upper mouth of tho WiUamrtte, 
 and about four hundred yaida from the ahor«. The pnncipal 
 baildtoga an included within a etoekade of IO0. eet op end. 
 wiaa doae together, and about twelve feet hi^hj the lo#er 
 enda of the limbera being aunk about fonr feet in the ground. 
 A notch ia cut out of each log near the top and bottom, into 
 whioh a girth ia fitted, and mortiaed into a Une >of »t •«>h 
 end, the whol* being trenwled to ihia girth. I jedge the an* 
 eoSaina about four ibree. The firat thing thiU etrikee. peraou 
 forcibly upon entoring one of the principal gatea »«pon the 
 aouth, ia two large oannona, planted one upon either aideof 
 the walk leading to the Oovernor'a houae, immediately in front 
 of the entrance. Many of the bnildinga are Uigj and «»«- 
 modioua, and fitted up for an •«««»''? '»|»*«^."I^''p"|; "^ 
 fcahioned looking conooma, and much dilapidrted. Eaet of 
 the fort and along the river bank there la • giaaajr prwrle, 
 ntondtng up faTabout three mileet U haa been euluvaled, 
 but an unuauaUy high fn«hei in the fiver waah«l the fence 
 away, awl it haa aineo remained without ewluvalion. Tht 
 aoU • graveUy. North oi thia, and extending down nearly even 
 with tfie fort there ia a handaome farm, under good eulUvataeo. 
 North of the fort th«i« ia a beauUful orchard, and an ext«eive 
 garden, with eeveral Urge blocka of buadioga. Belovtht 
 
vsu 
 
 ;ently. and w« wtr* 
 t, Mveral o( u» wflrt 
 e«. In the darknecit 
 :h we iiippoMtl to bu 
 U) tctir* tli«m away. 
 aff, and all waa again 
 It whan we aroaa in 
 a ona wo(un aheet, 
 r tin kettle, eifhteen 
 fe and aoablwrd, one 
 rhioh had beau .stolen 
 iLled the UMnauvree 
 ua. 
 
 lere we had an intra* 
 ■or or the Hudaon'a 
 I of a geatleman, and 
 M we were upon aa 
 tined to make a lew 
 I left the place, 
 (he north bank of the 
 th of the Willamette, 
 hor«. The prineipal 
 t of loga. let up end- 
 feet high! the lo«er 
 «r feet m the ground. 
 I top and boUMD, into 
 o a lane log at eaeh 
 rUi. I judge tlie atee 
 gthatetrikaeaperaon 
 eipal gate* upon the 
 M upon either aide of 
 u immediately in front 
 a are large and <H>m« 
 uaineee, otbera are old 
 dilapidated. Eaet of 
 re ii • gnaqr {trairie, 
 i haa been eultivaled, 
 iver waahad the fence 
 KHit eMltivalion. The 
 ding down nearly even 
 under good eultivataea. 
 theid, and an exteaaive 
 bttildioga. B«k>« die 
 
 TIIC ROCKY MOUNTAINt. 
 
 lis 
 
 fort, and extending from the ririT fur half a mile north, ia the 
 tillage} the inhabilanu of which are a mongrel race, conaiit- 
 Ing of Engllih, French, Canadiana, Indiona of different 
 nationa, and half breedf, all in the employ of the company. 
 The buildinga are aa varioua in form, aa are (he eharaeteria* 
 tice of their inmatea. 
 
 Aa yet there are but few Americana eetlled upon the north 
 eide of the Columbia. There aeeme to hare been an effort 
 upon the part of the Hudaon'a Bay Company, to impreaa the 
 American people with an idea that the entire country north of 
 the river waa unfit for cultivation. Not onhf waa thia atale- 
 ment made to emijfrania.hut it waa heralded forth to the whole 
 worid ; and aa much of the country along the Columbia cor- 
 roborated thia Btetement, no effort waa made to diaprove it. 
 Americana viiiiing ih<it anmlry being ao well pleaaed with the 
 attenliona paid Uiem by the Hudaon'a Bav Company, took for 
 granted their ala'emeiila, without eiamdiing for themielvea, 
 and have aanerted it at home, in accordance with Britiah 
 intereata, and thit I fear haa had iu influence in the aelUement 
 of thia queation. For any one acquainted with the character 
 of the claima of the reapective govemmenta can but admit, that 
 greater privilegoa have been granted to Great Britain than that 
 government had any right to expect, or than the juaUce of our 
 claim would allow. Undoubtedly, the laigeat part of go«>d 
 agriculniral country ia aouth of 49P north latitude, but there la 
 t great deal of excellent land north of that line. But littie of 
 it haa been explored by Americana, and we have taken only 
 the atatementa of Britiah aubjecta, and upon their authority, 
 the queetion between tha two govemmenU waa aettled. But 
 aa we have proven by aetual examination the ineorreemeaa of 
 their atatemenu in relation to the country between the Colum- 
 bia and the 49th degree north IdUtnde, we may leaaonably 
 infer that they are nleo incorrect in relation to the remainder 
 of the eountry north. That the general featurea of the coun- 
 try north of the Columbia River are rough and mounUinoua, 
 ia admitted; and the aame maybe ' in relaUon to the 
 eoantrv eouth of it ( but that it ii barren and aterlle, and imflt 
 for cultivation, ia denied. ^ ^ „ . ^, u j 
 
 The eoDDtrr upon the north aide of the OohimUa •bouoda 
 With \temm vrileya of rich aoil, of prairie «M timbered 
 landi, well watered, ftnd adept*! to the growUi of tU the grtlno 
 raiaedla tho nonhern, nhldto, tnd weetiem BiiM. wWi^P^ 
 Moridt^utefMfor|iMtinft nemftJUnt «•«"»«*•• ***»»" 
 10 
 
 i 
 
 -J 
 
114 
 
 jouiiNAL or travhui ovn 
 
 and A«h t >nd ita proximity to (>n« or the beat harbor* in lh« 
 worU, reotJera it ona of the moat daairable uid inip«>runl aac- 
 tiona upon tha Pv,\&t> coaal. Fmar'a rivar, with ita numar- 
 oua tribuuriaa, will aflurd a aattlemanl which will conpw* 
 well willt England itaalf. 
 
 Vancouver')! laland. an axeellani body of land, la equal lo 
 Eiigland in point of aiie, fertility of aoil, climaia, and arary- 
 Uiing that would conatiuila great national wealth. And bin 
 aidea iheae, there are undoubtedly ext«naiv« vallaya north of 
 Fraier'a river, which will eonpwre well with it ; but we know 
 nothing poaitively upon thia aubiect. 
 
 The excellent harbora of Pugel'a aound, with ita many 
 advantagea, and the delightful country about it, are aufllcient to 
 induce eapitaliata to lock that way. Thia will probably be the 
 principal port upon the coaaC Here will doubtleea be our 
 navy yard and ahipping atorea. It ia thought by roanv that an 
 eaay communication can be had between the Sound and the 
 middle region, by atriking the Columbia above fort Wallawalla. 
 If thia can be effrolad, it will leaaen the diatanee materially 
 from the aettlement upon the upper Columbia to a aeajport 
 town ( and aa the navigation of that river, between the Caa* 
 oade and Lewia'a fork ia attended with great danger and diffi- 
 culty, a route through to die aound in thia quarter would be 
 very deairable. I'hal it can be accompliahed there ia but little 
 doubi. A atream emptying into the ocean between the Colnm* 
 bia and the aound, called Shahalea, aObrda a very good haiw 
 bor, which ia called Gray 'a harbor. Up thia atream there 
 ie a country auitable fur an exienaive aetilemenL Like moet 
 other vaUeya in the country it ia diveraifird with prairie and 
 timbered land, and well watered. No eUima aa yet have been 
 tidien in thia valley. 
 
 There are two peaka upon the north aide of the river, whieh 
 remain covered with aoow the whole year round. One ia called 
 Mount St. Helen, and atanda north enat of Fort Vancoover, 
 and diatant perhape forty-five or fifty milea. 
 
 The other ia Mount Regnier, and aunda aome thirty*fiT» 
 milea from SL Helen, in a northerly direction. Thia ia aaid 
 to be a volcano. 
 
 The diatanee from Fort Vancouver to Puget'e aound, in • 
 direct line, cannot azoeed ninety milea ; but the \uA mova* 
 taina between render the route aomewhat dificult, and the die* 
 taace neeeaaarily traveled would be eonaiderabljr ia e r eaeed, . 
 
 Abwt Iqt^ laflM Mow fort Vaaeoavv ihMt wmtia f 
 
.0m^ 
 
 TNK WX-KV MOUNTAIN* 
 
 lit 
 
 I belt harhora in Um 
 a wid imporuni a«c- 
 var, with ila numar- 
 whkh wUleompMr* 
 
 of land, ia equal to 
 climaM, and avary* 
 d wealth. And b«- 
 live valltya norih of 
 ith it ; but w« know 
 
 und, with ita 11UU17 
 lit it, are aufflriant to 
 will probably b« tha 
 ill doubtleaa ba our 
 ight by many that aa 
 n the Sound and the 
 Mve fort Wallawalla. 
 I dialanee materially 
 ilumbia to a aflaDort 
 ir. between the Caa- 
 reat danger and diffl- 
 lia quarter would be 
 bed there ia but little 
 between the Colnm- 
 da a very good bar* 
 Jp thia atream there 
 Lleroent Like moet 
 ird with prairie and 
 ima aa yet have been 
 
 le of the river, whieh 
 
 round. One ia called 
 
 of Fort Vaucoover, 
 
 nda aomo thirty>fiv« 
 tction. Thia ia anid 
 
 Puget'e aound, in • 
 but the birii momi* 
 dUBmill, ead the die* 
 iderably inereeeed. 
 
 .<w»m MlM Cowlitl I tw.niyfi(?e miles up this !ir#«i» ihare 
 ?!Tr,.^h -Vd* m™ of about twenty f.miU. lake il..«. m 
 ;;.Vt"u:trt upon the -at aide of L VVUl«..t^ r^v«>y 
 k..> Mnrad out their term of yeara in the II. »• i^ompwij, 
 S/e uEin Sllnuir^d become an induau.oua and thrlvtn, 
 population. 
 
 Jt J.J."""'— ^« Vi'i". .•"""•^ rtf S'<h» 
 
 Th. l«li.l»liT. il.p«tui>Mit u » eoMul oC iwl tt" !"•« 
 rti '.mb.». ." m.™ 0... ri.<r^, tb. ""»'»•'» 
 
 The aupreme court conaiala of one judge, t^**».°y "V?/^ 
 Urure. and hold. hi. olllce four ye-e. They h.v. adopted 
 
 "^oZn'^J^^^ l««o eWtt eount^e. vi. : Lewi. V.„. 
 ^oil7.«nVam.hiU Polk. Qualily* Claekanua, and Sham- 
 rr llr'^onV^irf-S^ *^ f^^^ «f eounuy.about 
 Kt'ewTiSs-VaLHiver. that along the northern aide of 
 teluS!? ' Theee two countiee eompriM aU the temtory 
 Borth of the Columbia river. ,^„,— .-.. «f 
 
 CUteop county include, thai pert of the «f«n»J J'*"* «/ 
 Ih. ««»w of U»« «»"» "««• of mountain., end from the mer 
 l«llMo Yam-hiU county, and of courae include. Aatoru, Cletp 
 
 ""■JlSliJ'ci^niy include, the territonr bo«nd«l on the north 
 by^Sl3 on the ...t by the ^Villamette , on the «.uth 
 K Ylm-hdU .3 on the weet iy CUt«)p e««»»y- ,.., . . 
 V«4.ai eTty i. bo«nd«l on the «,rth »»y *y»;^M»J 
 UlilMrrthe line beiM ebmit ftfUen mUee aouth of Oregon 
 
 Pfllk oottBiy, end on the w«ii by the Ooewi. 
 
116 
 
 MVRNAI. or TRAmH OVMI 
 
 Polk (•nnnly l» tMHindrd on ihn north by Yam-Mil r'unlT, 
 on the eul hv {he Willaroeit«, on tha loulh by i)i'« niLfornl* 
 Unr, and on (K« wfat bv th« Paclde neaan. 
 
 Claekanita vounty ia boundMi on lh« north by th« Colum- 
 bia, on ih« out by thn Rix-ky mountaina, on the aouth by 
 ShaiiuKiip rounty, and on llm weat by iha WiUainctia, Inelo* 
 dinjt (Irrgon city. 
 
 Hhampoic county ia bounded on tha north by Clackaniia 
 nraniy. on tha eaat by tha Roi^kv mountaina, on tha aouth by 
 California, and on tha waat by tha Willametla. 
 
 The country will, without doubt, ba diTidml into at laaat 
 thran atataa. Ona auta will include all tha country north o( 
 the Columbia ri»er. Nature haa marked out the bonndariea. 
 Another alata will include all that rmintry aouth of the Co- 
 lumbia rl»er to the California line, and weal of the Caacada 
 range of mountaina. Thia country, howeTcr, ia large enough 
 to fi)rm two alatca. The country eaat of the Caacade range, 
 extending to the Rocky mountaina, and between the Columbia 
 and Cuiirornin, would make another atate. Thia would includt 
 more territory than all the remainder 5 but It would cow all 
 that »aat barren region of country which can never he inhab- 
 ited by tha white man. Tha wealem portion of thia aectioii 
 ia fertile. Tha line douhtleaa would be eatabliahed between, 
 leaving tha eaatarn portion aa Oregon territory, for future gai^ 
 anttiona to diapoae of. 
 
 Tha country now containa over aix thouaand white inhabil> 
 anta t and tha emigration thia year, orer land, will b« about 
 aavantean hundred aoula, and that by water will probably equal 
 it, which will incraana v. .>*«r to near ten thouaand. It 
 piajr be a aafa calculation i i »n tha nuar^tr for the ftial 
 
 of January, 1847, at I ■ ' ' 1 •oula. 
 
 The aattlara are lalwu..... jndei great diaadvantagea on w- 
 eount of not being able to obuin a auflleiant amount of farminf 
 imf^emenU. The early aattlara were aupplied at tha Hmlaon 
 Bay Company'a atore, and at pricea much leaa than thoaa nov 
 charged for the aama arUolea. At that time tha aupply waa 
 equd to the demand; but ainoa tha tide of amifraUon haa 
 turned ao atrongly to thia region, the demand ia much fraalar 
 than the aupplv. Thia may ba aaid of almoat arary kind of 
 gooda or merehandla*. Tha aupply of |ooda in tha handa of 
 tha Amaricmn marehanta haa bean vary limited, being tha ram* 
 naat of eai|oaw ihippad round upon that coaat, mora for th« 
 
 
ovm 
 
 » by Ynm-MI! cuml'' 
 
 ouih by lilt '^iKfornU 
 
 lan 
 
 north by th« OolttiB- 
 
 lint, on ih« louUi by 
 
 Iha WiUainctM, Inolo* 
 
 I north by CUckamia 
 talna, on iha Mnilh bj 
 ■mettt. 
 
 dividftd into tt Inst 
 I th« rounlry north o( 
 pd out (ha bnnndiriM. 
 ntry aouth of the Co- 
 I wnt of thfi CiMad« 
 Mr«rr>r, ia largs •nough 
 at the Caacade ranfe, 
 betwenn ihe Cnliimbia 
 i>. Thia would include 
 >)ut it would cover all 
 \i can nevpr he inhab* 
 portion of thia aection 
 I eatabliahed bftween, 
 rriiory, for future gen- 
 
 [louaand white inhabit* 
 er land, will b« about 
 ter will probably equal 
 laar ten tho;iaand. It 
 ie num^'ff for the ftiat 
 ula. 
 
 t diaadvantagea on ao- 
 lent amount of farming 
 upplied at tba Hndaon 
 rh leaa than thooe nov 
 
 time the aupply waa 
 ide of emigranon haa 
 mand ia much graalcr 
 
 almoet erary kind of 
 gooda in tha haiida of 
 timitad, baing th« i«m« 
 at eoaat, mora for th* 
 
 THR IIOCHV MOlNTAlMa. 
 
 IIT 
 
 parpoaa of uaaOng with the Indiana, than with the euiuralort 
 of ina aoil. . . ,. 
 
 (Ireat complainia have been m«Ja bv the intrthanta tradinf 
 In that quartrr, that ili«y were not able to compete with U>a 
 Hudaon Hay tloinpany i and ihia ia the cry a»«n at homej 
 but the fact is, the prirea were much lower before iheae Amer- 
 iean merthanta went into the country than they now are. 
 Their mwle of dealing ia to aak whatever »»»cir avarice d*. 
 manda. and the neceaeiiiee of the purrhaaar will haar. And 
 not h«ing a«li«ticd with an op*n «eld, they have petitioned the 
 Hudaon Hay Oompany u, nut a higher price jpon their goo<K 
 ■a they were aelling lower than the Ami-ricari mi^rchanta wienaa 
 to aall. In accordance with thia requeat. ihn II. B. Company 
 raiaed the priofl of gooda H)hm told to m Amtriem, but aold 
 diem at thi old prirea to Britiah eubjecte. Thia arrangement 
 wae cmtinuoil for two yearaj but an American can now por* 
 ehaae at the Ibrt aa cheap aa any one. Thaea facU 1 obtained 
 from varioui. nourcea, ^nd when appriaed of the pricee of gooda 
 in that ooimtry. they are not ao hard to be believed. 
 
 I paid for a pair of $toga ehoaa, made in one of the aaatem 
 atatea, and a vary common article, four doliara and fifty centa ; 
 for a common coarae cotton (lag handkerchief, which can ba 
 had in Cincinnati for five or l«n canta, /f/Ty wnta. The price 
 of calico rangee from thirty-ona to aighty^avan and a half 
 centa a yard ; common red flannel one dollar and nity centa 
 per yard; a box of two hundred and fifty parouaaion cape, 
 two dolUra and fifty ranta j coaraa boola, aaatem made, aix to 
 eight doliara ; ealMtm from tan to Iwalva dollar* j coaraa halt 
 hoaa, one doUar t dry gooda ganarally ranginf with the above 
 pricea. Iron wae aelling at twelve and a half centa per pound. 
 Toola of all kinda are very high j ao that whatever inay be 
 aaM againat iheeorapany, for putting down the pricea to deatroy 
 competiiton by breaking up other merchanta, cannot be •' aua- 
 tained by the faeta of the caae." That thev prevent them from 
 raiaing the pricea there ia no doubt, and if ttie American raw. 
 ohanta had the field, clear of oompeUUon, the pricee would be 
 double what they now are. They have not capital to enable 
 then to keep up a aupply, nor to purchaae the aurplul of the 
 country. The Hadaon Bay Ooroiwny are the onlv p urchaae ra 
 to any extent, for there are no othara who have the naoeeaanr 
 machinery to manufiMJtara wheat, which ia the ataple of the 
 Moatij tt pteaent. The AmeikMi BMrehaDH buy » nw flab. 
 
118 
 
 JOU»H..,L OF TKAVEL8 OVW 
 
 hidaa, and limber ; but in such limited quanUties as to be of 
 very little advantage t. the country. 
 
 A few American merchania, wiUi a Utile capital, weald give 
 an impulse to trade, encounge the setlleru, make it a prodlabla 
 bnaincM to liiemaelvea, and add much ic the eharaeter or the 
 country. There is ecarcely any branch of buaineea that might 
 not be carried on oueceasfully in Orecon. Flouring mille, t^-w- 
 milla, carding maohinea, Atlling and doth dying, tin ahops, pot- 
 teries, taoyarda, dM., Ite., would all be profitable t and m trutli 
 they are all much needed in the eountiy. 
 
 The price of a flour barrel ia one dollar; that of eommon 
 ■plit-bottom chain twenty-four dollatfl per doaec ; a eommon 
 dining table without vamiah, fourteen dollars t half solio|[ a 
 pair of shoes or boots, two dollars ; oottiDf and splitting rails, 
 one dollar and twenty-five cents per hundred i eighteen inch 
 shinj{les, four dollsrs and fiAy cents per thouaand t enttin^ cord 
 wood, from serenty-five cents to one dollar per eord ; carpen- 
 ter's wages from two to three dollars per day ; laborer's from 
 one to two dollars per ok/ i plough irona fiAy cents per pound t 
 slacking a plough, from four to six dollars. Wheat, eighty 
 cento per bushel ; potatoes fifty cento ; com sixty-two and a 
 half eento ; oato fifty cento ; beef four to six cento per pound < 
 pickled salmon by the barrel, nine to twelve dollars for ahip- 
 ment ; work catde are from seventy-five to om hundred dollars 
 per yoke ; cows from twenty-fiv«t to fifty doUara each ; Amer- 
 ican work horses from one hundred and fifty to two hundred 
 dollars. I hive never heard ct any sheep being soM, but pre- 
 sume they would biing from five to ten dollars. A tailor will 
 ehaige from six to twelve dollars for making a dress eoat Hogs 
 are high, though there aeema to be plenty of them in the oouii- 
 try. The common kinds of poultry are plenty. It is a sin- 
 gular fttet that the honey bee is not found in the Oregon torrid 
 tory, neither wild nor domesticated. Beef hides are twadollim 
 each ; a chopping axe from four and a half to six dollars ; a 
 drawing knife, three to five dollars; handsaws, six dollars ( 
 cross-cut saws, eight to twelve dollars ; miU-eaws, twenty-five 
 dollars. Tnere is but little hoUow ware ia the country. No 
 stationery of any kind could be had when I was there. The 
 people ara in mat need of school books ; 9ome scotions being 
 destitute <tf senools in coaseqaonce of not beiiu; able to pro* 
 cure books. Good teachers are alao much needed. 
 
 I had espeeted to find the wintnts much more seven than 
 they turned oot to be. I had no thwmoroetw, and no mems 
 
IVES 
 
 quanUties as to be of 
 
 le oapttal, weald give 
 rw, make it a prodtablo 
 : the ehaneter or the 
 ar buaineea that mif ht 
 Flouring millf, vtm- 
 dying, tin shopi, pot- 
 rofilable t and m inilli 
 
 • 
 
 liar; that of eommon 
 ir doaec; a eonunoa 
 ioUan I half aoliof^ a 
 in; and spUtting raiU, 
 ndradi eighteen inch 
 houaand ; enttin^ cord 
 liar per cord ; cupen* 
 r day ; laborer'* trom 
 fiAy cento per pound; 
 llara. Wheat, eighty 
 com sixty-two and a 
 » six cento per pound \ 
 reWe dollars for ship- 
 to on^. hundred dollars 
 r doUara each ; Amer* 
 fifty to two hundred 
 
 3> being sold, but pre- 
 ollars. A tailor will 
 ing a dress eoat Hogs 
 y of them in the couo* 
 e plenty. It is a sin- 
 id in the Oregon torri- 
 itf hides are twa dollars 
 half to six dollars t s 
 BBd^iws, six dollars ( 
 miU<«aws, twenty-fiTO 
 9 ia the country. No 
 «D I was tbert). The 
 i; 9ome scotions being 
 not being able to pro* 
 och needed, 
 inch more sersra than 
 ometw, and no meins 
 
 u■^■'■^^^l.fr^rlr^ 
 
 TUK ROCKT MOUNTAINS. 
 
 llf 
 
 of aaeertaining the degrees of heat and cold, but I kept an 
 account of the wet and dry weather, cloudy, clear, tie., Ac, 
 eommeaeing on ihe first day of NoTember and ending on the 
 firji oC March, which was the day I eurted on my return to 
 the United Stales. . 
 
 The 1st and Sd days of No»ember were clear; 8d rainy i 
 then clear until the 1 Ith ; ekwdy unHI the 18tK. Then cloudy, 
 with slight showers of rain until the aoth ; 2iBt and 22nd cle«r ; 
 9ld ramy: 94th and 26th were cloudy, but no rain; the 
 weather was then clear until the 29th, wh^n it again clouded up. 
 80th of Nofember and first of December were cloudy ; 2d 
 and 8rd clear, with frosty nighto. On the 4nh a miatv nin j 
 Sth and «th were cloudy ; from 7'h to 10th clear and cool, 
 with frost every night. On the 1 Ith it ramed nearly all day, 
 and on the 12th about half the day. 13th and Utii wer« 
 cloudy. From the 16th to 22d clear and pleamnt, with frosty 
 
 ighto ; it thawed through the day in the ion all that froie at 
 night, but in the shade remained froxen. From the 22d to 24th 
 cloudy, with ahowers of drixiling rain? 26th. 2«th and 27ih 
 rain nearly all the time, but not very copiousV- ; tlie morning 
 were foggy. The 28ih and 49lh were clear, but verjr foggy m 
 the forepart of the day ; 80th and Slat rain about iiaii the time. 
 From the 1st to 8d of January it was squally, with frequmt 
 showera of rain : 4th cloady, but no rain ; 5th rained nearly 
 all day. From the 6th to the 12th, clear and pleasant, being 
 uliffhtfy fomy in the mornings; from 18ih to 17th rained about 
 half eih liy, and nearly all the night; 18th and l»lh, c oudy 
 without rain. The 20th and 2lBt, alight rain nearly aU the 
 time; 22d waa cloudy; 28d and 24lh, rain about half of each 
 day ; 26th rained aU day, 26th cloudy, without rtin, 27lh wee 
 rainy some heavy ahowera ; 28th was clear; 20th, 80th and 
 
 81st, were shower jnd Mastering, raining about half the time, 
 
 **Th?liiof February was dear; 2d doudy,3d rainy; 4th 
 tad Sth were » little eloady, but pleasant; 6ih and 7th, a few 
 alight showers; Sth and 8th rainy and quite cool ; snow was 
 seen on the lower peaka of the Coaat range of mountainB, but 
 none in the valley. The lOth was cloudy, at night a htdfflrost ; 
 1 1th wes rain> ; Itth and ISth rained nil the lime ; 14th and 
 16th were nearly clear, with light fcoeto. The weather r^ 
 niained clear untU the 28rd, witi light firoato, but not eoM 
 •ffoggh to freMe the groand; 94ih doudy; 2&th eleu; aOth, 
 SvCnd Mth laiBMl att tbe time. 
 
JOURNAL OF T«AVEW OVW 
 
 nwt of Mtrch, T.ined h.lf *• d.y » »d «ip«f?;'J,"j^ 
 
 tw«ni;d«y.th.ti.m«.dn^riy^ 
 
 dayi ih«t wtre detr, or neatly •<»»»• """T . ^^ j^^^ 
 w/re cloudy .nd -h^J-'X: JJ^tJ^jl^jCkiJout 
 •II the day without having own weu ""~'. ^ ^l^ j^_ 
 I ahould think thai two-tbirda of tho ram lou auniif *w 
 "% «»w fall in th. .dloy., nor '•" »»«;• f^-^^?'^ 
 
 inch in thickneaa. The »t»^f«»^"' ?^" v!^or a few dayai 
 ,i«i ao high aa to make it drfBoult to get .^i IZ^Sb^Xm 
 but they ire ahort, and aoon "« *'*^^^¥JJ«Wl•ll• 
 u vet been beatowed on Uw public roada. rje wi'JJ'J'J 
 
 for wtttle, I puwhaaed ae»eral head of ^^'^ **. "t'^":L-^ 
 
 for that porpoae. and at «wo o'clock P. M. •J^^j^i,^ 
 though anxioua to b. on the r^y^J*!}^^^ 
 with conaiderable reluetanoe. I had fMfnfJJt JW™,*J2 
 gon kind ind hoapitoMe. and my «squamt««i wiA tbw^ 
 
 Seen of the moat friendly ''^^•^1' m^^tS^H^ 
 who had traveled throtigh to 0«|«» •*" wmnmmtv, vw^ 
 
OVIW 
 
 \ 'zd eioadjr, 8<1 nunwl 
 ^making in all aboul 
 t day, and »boat forty 
 rtinaiiid«ofih«d»yt 
 
 of tlM day* Mt down 
 Boald hay* worlMdout 
 
 Muoh of tiM tUM U 
 ilaar through tha day. 
 I nin f«U dorinc tt»« 
 
 I there fioM more than 
 ih orer a qnartar of an 
 d m,mm/m" ■ometunae 
 t aboat for a few davai 
 . But little labour haa 
 n^. The Wilttmetle 
 nly aU the traTeliof ie 
 rodueta of the eoontry 
 ■ ean be eonly bridged, 
 [It little dif&eulty in trv 
 
 ent on my relnm to the 
 party of aeven pareona 
 • enpeeted to overtake 
 BW head of lame catde 
 man named Craiff, who 
 la '.!ie Indiana in Uiat n- 
 ^ they wiahed to trade 
 r eetlle to trade for lior> 
 howoter.hedpwwhaaed 
 with eeveral horree and 
 !R taken ahead on the Sd 
 ug the Columbia river at 
 if the Cohimbia, and re« 
 ronle we would avoid the 
 
 Mt which we had bought 
 >. M. ahovedofft and ah 
 »*, yet 1 left Umijce 
 found the people of 0» 
 inamtaaoe with them had 
 . Many of the penpne 
 iirltltMkiMUa^ntOir 
 
 ■ootY McwirrAuni 
 
 Ifll 
 
 gon city. Attaehmenle had been formed upon the ruad. which 
 when about to leave, Memed like parting with our own fami- 
 Uei. We were about to retrace (he long and dreary journey 
 which the year before had been performed, and again to twave 
 the privationa and dangers incident to such a jouruev. Trav 
 eliiig aa we expected to do on horseback, we could not lak* 
 thoM convenieneea so necessary for comfort, as when aeconf 
 panied with wagons ; but we bade adieu to the good people 
 of Oregon, and rapidly floated down the Wiliaroette to the 
 town of Portland, twelve miiea below the falls. It com* 
 nienoed raining quite fast, and we hove to, and procured quar> 
 tera with Mr. Bell, one of the emigrants who had recently 
 settled at thia place. Thia will probably be a town of some 
 consequence, as it oeoupiea a handsome aite, and is at tha 
 head of ship navigation. Mr. Petigrew of New York is tha 
 pro|metor. It cootinned raiKl .4 nearly all night 
 
 In the morning the rain abated ; we again took the oars, 
 and in two hours and a half reached tlie town of Linton. Hera 
 are a few log huta, ereeied among the heavy timber ; but it 
 will not, probably, ever be much of a town. A great portion 
 of tlie emigrania iravd^Bg down the Columbia land at this 
 place, and take the road to Quality plaina, which are abont 
 twenty-five miles distant; but the roM ia a bad one. 
 
 At 8 o'clock P. M. we arrived at fort Vancouver, where we 
 made a few purehaaes to complete our outfit, and then rowed 
 up the river two mike and a lalf, and encamped. Here we 
 found the party with o«r horses. The Indians had atolen two 
 horaee, aeveral trail rapea, dee. The day waa showery. 
 
 On the 7th we aeeended about eighteen milea, to the mouth 
 of a stream coming in upon the north side of the river, aboui 
 one hundred yards in width, having ita source in Mount St. 
 Helen. Here a commencement of a settlement had been made 
 by Simmons, Parker, and others, and abont a dosen buildinca 
 erected, but were now abandoned on account of its being sub- 
 ject to he overflowed by the annual high freshele of the Co* 
 lumbia river. The soil ie good, with several patehee of prairie. 
 On our way we paaaed the srist and saw mills of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company. They atand immediately upon the bank of the 
 Colombia. The water power is obtained from small moun- 
 tain atreams. The milla are six and eight milea above 
 the Ibrt. Several iaianda in the river mi|^t be Uvetd and suo> 
 cessfuUy eukivated. The day was chwdy, with occasio n al 
 showers of rain, and atm* haiL 
 II 
 
 -r- 
 
 ^WMMMMMMM 
 
133 
 
 JOURNAL OF TKAVBM OVER 
 
 On the 8lh we advanced alxteen or eighteen rnilce. Fol 
 the irrealer part of the way. the river ia hemmed in by higli, 
 oramy, rocky cliffa. At one point, called Cape Horii, the 
 fooEi project over the atream, preaentinjr a huge maaa of black 
 looking rocka of several hundred feet in height. Home of them 
 ■eem to have broken and alid from their former poailion, and 
 now sund in detached columns erect in the deep atream, pre- 
 senting a grand and terrific appearance. At several points, 
 streams of water were tumbling more than a thousand feet from 
 crag to crag, and fulling into the river in broken sheets. Upon 
 one of these columns sunds a solitory pine tree, and upon the 
 topmost branch sat a large bald-headed •»«!«• .^^e rowed 
 nearly under it, when one of our men took his rifle and Hred, 
 and down came the eagle, striking the water not more than 
 ten feet from the boat. A wing had been broken, and we dis- 
 patched him with our oars ; he measured ovw seven feet from 
 tip to tip of the wings. Round Uiis point t»w wate? is some- 
 times very rough. BoaU hara been compeUed to lay to, for 
 two weeks, on account of the roughness of the water. iM 
 day was clear. ., 
 
 Upon the 0th we progressed about ten miles. Seven milM 
 brought us to the Toot of the rapids, odled the Cascade falls, 
 and here for five miles the river is hemmed m and emitrac- 
 ted to not more than three hundred yards in width, and nins 
 with tremendous velocity. We were oompeUed lo eardtUt 
 our boat, and sometimes lift it over the rooks for several rods. 
 It is not easy to form an idea of the difficulties to be- encoun- 
 tered, in ascending this rapid. Late in the evening we en- 
 camped, after a day of hard work in wtdmg, pulling and liftr 
 ing. It rained nearly all night. . . , . _ __ _^ 
 On the 10th we arrived at the head of the portage, i hree 
 times we were compeUed to unload our boat, and carry our 
 effects over the rocks along the shore; and »t the main falls 
 the distance of the portage is nearly one mile. At night we 
 had completed the portage, and were all safe above the faUs. 
 
 At the foot of the rapids we met several fcmilies of emi- 
 srants, who had been wintering at the Dalles.. One of Uiem 
 had traveled the most of the way with us, but being unwilling 
 to travel as fast as we wished, had not arrived in time to get 
 through before winter set in. In this family was « young 
 woman, who so captivated one of our party, that he turned 
 
 back with them. . , „ . . . 
 
 On the nth we made but about eight miles; tho wind eaus- 
 
THB ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 123 
 
 itMn milci. Fot 
 mmed in by liigli, 
 
 Cape Horn, the 
 luge mau of black 
 ht. Home of ihem 
 rmer position, and 
 
 deep ■troam, pre* 
 At Mveral pointa, 
 thouaand feet from 
 ken aheele. Upon 
 tree, and upon the 
 lagle. We rowed 
 : hia rifle and fired, 
 ter not more than 
 itoken, and we dia* 
 ver aeven feet from 
 the water ia aome- 
 leUed to lajr to. for 
 »f the water. The 
 
 nilee. Seven milee 
 I the Caaeade falla, 
 aed in and contrao- 
 I in width, and runa 
 impelled to cotdMt 
 tka for aereral roda. 
 lultiea to be'eneoun- 
 the eToning we en- 
 ing, pulling and lift* 
 
 Ihe portage. Three 
 boat, and carry our 
 nd at the main falla 
 mile. At night we 
 afe above the falla. 
 iral toiliee of eni- 
 allca.. One of them 
 , bat being anwilling 
 rrived in time to get 
 famity waa * young 
 »arty, that he tnmed 
 
 uIm; UMwinde«u> 
 
 ing a swell that rendered boating dangeroua. The day waa 
 clear, and at night there was a hard frott. 
 
 We progressed twelve or fourteen miles on the 12th ; the 
 day was cloudy. Here we had designed crossing the river 
 with our horses. 
 
 The morning of the 18lh waa too windy to awtm our horses 
 over. We attempted to take them up the north aide of the 
 river; but after clambering about three miles, we were com- 
 pelled to halt, the clMTa being ao abrupt that we were unable to 
 paaa them with horses. We remained at thia place through 
 
 On the morning of the 14th the wmd had eo abated that we 
 eould awim our animals. Wo commenced by taking four at a 
 time; two upon each aide of the boat, with four men rowmg. 
 In thia manner by ten o'clock A. M., all had crossed. The 
 water was very eold. The width of the river at thia place, la 
 more than a mile. The party with the horses then took the 
 trail, and we saw no more of them, until we arrived at the 
 Dalles, which we reached on Use 16th. Here we found five 
 of the party who had atarted a week in advance of us. Two 
 of their eompMiy had gone on to Whitman's station. We 
 ■old our boat to the Miasionariea, and remained here unUl the 
 morning of the l»th, endeavoring to hire and boy horses to 
 pack our efiecta to Dr. Whilman'a. There were hundreds of 
 horses belonging to the Indiana, but their ownera knew our 
 situation, and wialied to extort a high price from ua. We ao 
 arranged onr effeeU as to pack them on the mules and horaea 
 we had, and we ourselves traveled on foot. 
 
 On the evening of Uie 18th, we packed up and proceeded 
 two miles, when we encamped. Two Indiana came and 
 encamped with ua. In the night our mules began to show 
 signs that « thief waa approaching. The guard apprised ua 
 of it, and we prepared our arms. Our two Indian frienda 
 seeing that we were prepared to chaatise thieves, rouaed up 
 and oommsneed running around tlie camp, and hallooing most 
 lustUy; probably to give warning that it was dangerous to 
 approach, aa they soon disappeared. 
 
 During the day ws had aeen some sport As we were near- 
 ly all ffsen in the buainess of packing, and many of our ani- 
 mala were quite wild, we frequenUy had running and kicking 
 '•sprees," scattering the contento of our packe over the prairie, 
 and in some cases imaging and losing them. In one «nsUnce, 
 whOe traveling along a narrow, winding path upon the side of 
 
 I 
 
It4 
 
 JOURNAL OF TRAVBI4I OVFR 
 
 I i 
 
 a bluff, a pack upon a mule't back becamo looae 5 he mule com- 
 menred kicking, and ihe pack, saddle and all rolled off, and aa 
 the irail rope wus lied faat to the mule'a neck, and then around 
 the pack, it dragged the mule after it. The bank for .ix or eight 
 hundred fpet wua to sleep that a man could acarcely stand 
 upright. The mule was sometimea ahead of the P«cK. »« 
 others the pack was ahead of the inule. At length, sfter 
 tumbling about one thousand feet, to near a perpendicular ledg« 
 of rocks, they stoppeil. Six feet farther would ha»e plunged 
 them o»er a cliff of two hundred feet, into the river. We 
 arrived at and crossed Falls river, receiving no other damage 
 than wetting a few of our packs. We encamped two miles 
 above Falls river, having traveled about tiiteen milea. The 
 weather was clear and warm. We traveled lewurwly ilong, 
 nothing remarkable occurring; but as some of the party were 
 unaccustomed to walking, they soon showed signs of fatigue 
 and sore feet. We were often visited by a set of half-eiarved 
 and naked Indians. 
 
 On the 26lh we reached Fort Wallawalla, or Fort Ne« 
 Percfe, as it is sometimes called. Thie fort stand, upon the 
 east side of the Columbia, and upon Ihe north bank of th« 
 Wallawalla river. We went about three fourths of a mile up 
 the Wallawalla river, and encamped. Near ns was a vUlwje 
 of the Wallawalla Indians, with their prineipal chief. Ihu 
 old chief wae not very friendly to Americans. The aeason 
 before, a party of the Wallawallas had visited California, by 
 invitation of Capt. Suter; and whilst 'h;"' ■,«*»**"•'?;, "^^ 
 about some horses, and the son of the old chief wae killed m 
 the fort. The Indiana left Immediately, and aa Suter claimed 
 to be an American, the chiefs feelings were excited against 
 all Americans. He had showed hosUle demonattations 
 asainst a party of American* the aummer previoiw; and when 
 we arrived, we were told that he was surly, and not dispoaed 
 to be friendly. The graiing about the <»mp waa poor, aod 
 we sent a few men with the animals to the hills, three milea 
 distent, to graie. Near night we obeerved quite a atir among 
 the Indians. We gave a signal to drive in the horaee; t:i»y 
 ■oon came in, and we picketed them near the eamp. Ae eoon 
 a* it was dark the Indiana conmeneed singing and teneing, 
 aceompanied with an instrument similar to a drum, and giving 
 moat hideoua yelle, running to and fro. We began to suapeet 
 that they meditated an attack upon our eamp; and we aocof- 
 dingly prepared to meet them by teiiding a forttftemtion of 
 
 u 
 
OVKR 
 
 loose ; the inu1« coni« 
 I all rolled oflT, and ai 
 eck, and than around 
 thank Tor six or eigiit 
 could scarcely atand 
 ie«i of the pack, at 
 le. At length, alter 
 a perpendicular ledge 
 would have plunged 
 into the river. We 
 ving no other damage 
 encamped two miles 
 riiteen miles. The 
 veled leisurely along, 
 ime of the party were 
 )wed signs of fatigue 
 ^ a set of half-eiarved 
 
 lawtHa, or Fort Nex 
 I fort stands upon the 
 le north bank of the 
 i fourths of a mile up 
 Near us was a villa^ 
 [>rineipal chief. This 
 ■rieans. The scMon 
 visited California, by 
 lere, i diAeulty aroee 
 Id chief was killed m 
 and as Suter claimed 
 were excited against 
 ostile demonstrattons 
 )r previous ; Mid when 
 iirly, and not disposed 
 I e«mp was poor, and 
 
 the hills, three miles 
 red quite a stir among 
 e in the horses ; tb«y 
 ir the eemp. As soon 
 
 1 singing and dancing, 
 to a drum, and giving 
 
 We began to suspect 
 earap; and we accor- 
 ding a fortifteation of 
 
 m Hocrr nouirrAiJia 
 
 1S6 
 
 our ba«s«, and posting a sUong guard. We remained in this 
 J^o'siSTStil day'lJighTwh.n w. packed "P- "J Uaveled «J 
 Ihe Wallawalla eight or ten miles, when we stopped, cooked 
 breakfast, and allowed our animals to graie, ... 
 
 Befow siting, the old chief and a ?ew of h.s .?"«"?•"•« 
 mi «.. »i««. They appeared fr'«"?l'^ ?»'^,:»''."^fo^,''J^^: 
 We tave them some provisions, and made them a few pres 
 ZiM 5f tobacco, pipes, Ac. After shooting at a mark with 
 Teh etto^n^rhim of our skill, we conversed on v«.- 
 OM sublets, among which the death of his son was men loned, 
 S he «p«-^ his det.nnln.tion to go to California Uu. 
 Sion We parted, he and his people to Uieir village, and 
 ^m nnnn (Mif HHite to Dr. Whitman s. 
 "^ wHe^ El^ioined by a party of Ne. P.re6 Indian. ; 
 among whom were four of their principal chiefiu Ellis the 
 mllt chief wa. with them. He speaka very good English, 
 ETi. qo te tetelligenu He was educated at the Hujon'. 
 Bay cipany'-Xol. on Red river. They traveled and 
 JSamS wii 0., making heavy d.-a(V. upon our provisions ; 
 
 •hSr::;«tp«^ to -pVish *\^'^^^vi'*:,::x"' s 
 
 fraelr We encamped on a brawjh of the Wallawalla. i nis 
 K Lst biutU'ul Sley of good land, but Umber i. limited to 
 a fow Cottonwood and willows along the "i;?*™^. .,^, .. . 
 
 In the aftenwon of the 28ih we reached Dr. Whitman s sta- 
 tion Hew wTremainwi until the gist, when m company 
 SS fcSr ?th^ "nd the Nea Perc* Indian., we sUrt^J for 
 BmLw. mi-imH-Mr. Spalding being of our party. The 
 2mT£r wrty remained at Whitman's. Our ofcgeet was to 
 SiSriS«;«d^xplore the country. The dUtance from 
 K: Whitman's to Bp.l«liiig't wa. about one h«ndr«l and fifty 
 SiI.i«.Dorth-w-tdi««»i'>»- The flmt day we traveled but 
 STt twenty-five mUee, over a moat delightful praine ooumry. 
 ^•M»iUd mi a beautiftil clear atieam ooming down from 
 !k.marMMWlun.. which are about twdve mile. distant. 
 T^^arS^iV traveled about ifty-five mUe., also 
 
 om a delkhtW/wUiag. P«»'«« •o""»^« *T'"*.i"""iS 
 SI!Ltfanmi. lim>d wiU, timber, and affording de.ir.ble 
 iMa^ for M/t^nmi. The aoU i. rich, and covered with an 
 «SeE«LT3«a«. Thl. region powewesgraaingadvan- 
 SS^ir^oSTportion of W^thTl have yet-een. 
 TETif wll?bhi.teriiig, with a little roow, which m.Hed a. 
 
 ''oX'id r^^ wn «rived at Mr. Bidding'. mi«ion. 
 
 f. 
 
r 
 
 f I 
 
 1«« 
 
 JOURNAL or TRAVELa OVKR 
 
 which it upon the KonakoMkefi or CUar Water, and aboal 
 twenty milea above ita moulh or junction with Lewia'a forit 
 or the Columbia. Ten milea from our camp we atniek Lcwia'a 
 fork, and proceeded up it for five milea. and croaaed. On our 
 way up we paaaed a ledge of locka of fluted columna, two or 
 thrM hundrod feet high. The blufTa of I^wia'a fork and tha 
 Kooakooakee are rery high, aometimea more than three thou«' 
 aand feet. The hilla are nearly all covered with graaa. 
 
 Aa the time I could remain m thia region would not eilow 
 me to explore it aatiafactorily, I reqnealed Mr. Spalding to 
 fumiah me with the rv'.ult of hia experience for ten yeara ia 
 the country. He very kindly complied, and the following ie 
 the information obtained from him.* Aa he goea very much 
 into detail, it ia unneeeaaary for me to add aoy further remark* 
 here, in relation to thia region of the coaatry. 
 
 We remained at thia miaaionary eatabliahment natil the 10th 
 of April. During our aUy, we heard related many inoidenta 
 common to a mountain life. At one time, when Mr. Bpaldinf 
 waa on an excuraion to one of the neighboring viU^ea, aeoom* 
 panted by aeveral Indiana and their wivea, they eapied a bear 
 at a abort diatanee clambering up a tree. He aaeended thirty 
 or forty feet, and halted to view the travelera. A tree atanding 
 near the one upon which aat the bear, with limba eoavenienlly 
 aitoated to climb, induced Mr. Spaldinc lo attempt to la$$o 
 maater brain. He accordii^y prepared Hpiarif wilh a la»t0 
 rope, and aaeended the tree until he attainf d an r « lao '^nial 
 to that of the bean He then cut a limb^ v< » of 
 
 the rope upon one end, and endeavored te lead 
 
 of the bear ; but aa the rope approached «. . -M!mk 
 
 it with hia paw, and aa Mr. S. had bat oie haml it houiy, he 
 could not aucceed, the weight of the /ope being too great 
 He called to aome of hia Indian frienda, te come up and aa* 
 aiat him ; but none aeemed willing to riak thenaelvee ao aeur 
 the formidable animal. At length one of the eqnawa cUmbed 
 up, and held tiie alack of the rope, and Mr. B. aacoeeded in alip- 
 ping the nooae over bruin'a head. He then deaeended fima 
 the tree, and aa the rope extended to the groood, they gave 
 it a jerk, and down came the bear, which fell ia aueh a way as 
 to paaa the rope over a large limb, thua avapending him by 
 the neck. 
 The cattle which we had purchaaed were aeattered over um 
 
 •8aa AppMdix. 
 
 
>VRR 
 
 lar Water, and aboal 
 m with Lewia'a fork 
 np we atniek Lawia'a 
 ind croMcd. On our 
 uted columna, two or 
 Lewia'a fork and tha 
 nore than throe lhou< 
 ired with graaa. 
 {ion would not allow 
 lied Mr. Spalding to 
 lenoe for ten yeara in 
 , and the following ia 
 a he goea very much 
 d any further remarka 
 aniry. 
 
 iahment nntil the 10th 
 »latml many incidente 
 e, when Mr. Spalding 
 xnrtng viU^ea, aeoouH 
 aa, they eapied a bear 
 He aacended thirty 
 ilera. A tree atanding 
 ith limbe eoBrenienlly 
 r to attempt to lain 
 I Hoedr wi\halw«e 
 nrdaar '(fao'^nMl 
 
 r Mad 
 
 nM'hmi 'u hoMty, he 
 <«pa being too gnat. 
 I, to come up ara ae> 
 lak themaelTea ao near 
 )f the aquawa climbed 
 r. 8. aoceeeded in aUp- 
 then deaeended firam 
 he growHl, they gave 
 h feU in each a way as 
 a anapending him by 
 
 irere aeattered over torn 
 
 TMB »OaiY MOVNTAlNt. 
 
 vn 
 
 ..lain. On the »d they were brought In. and 'J« ^^^'J^ fUl. 
 Coght the whole band, agreeing to g.ve ««• ^"^-rj" 'Jj; 
 
 foriher up the Koo.koo.k«e. but 1... h""':'"-'*^ uZ Yor .ix 
 S. miaaion. Elli. ma.ie arrangemenU w.lh J« •»"*'^°'^i 
 hor.e..anadJi.e.d.he.U.^u^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 K'S" out «tt; wrtli^rlmeinder of tj. »;-J J". 
 Z ebaence many of the n-'i'" """ »" rlt,*td St 
 to trade for the cattle, and when informed Oiat «"" ^jJ^X 
 Sem all. they were rery much di.ple«wd. -nd «:harged EU« 
 with cot^niwing with the whilea againat h'« ?*«?»•• /"*'"* 
 
 siiatK .w"dro*rdo::rJ;'^^^^ 
 
 Md oatUe ; if courae we demanded the cattle ; *« Indiane 
 
 drove in aome horeee to trade, and before "'«•" ^•;~„„''2^ 
 of aU bat four head of our cattle, one yoke of oxen, one year 
 Hmr heifer, end a yearling calf. The oxen belonged to me. I 
 Kiln eharge^f M?. Spalding. unUl my retun.. In Ut^ 
 
 •hirsrpJsiiieJforClni:^^^^ «'£ 
 
 KTshTrk":^. ^. The value of foorte- dollar. m^n«ie 
 would boy an ordinary horae } if it uaa an entra »»»• J*™* 
 AiM m«i would be Ued. Four \.l.nketa waa the price of 
 ; K None of the Indian, would uh« mnnay except EUw. 
 In SJthey L not aeem to know the '•>«« of "•pey. 
 
 n^rmirTtaVat thi. pUce. the Indiana flocked in from all 
 qoSST It Kt JTdom' that' the white. vUit thi. pori^n of 
 SrSJntry. and the Indian, all ««n.ed anxiou. ^ .••«.. 
 The h«»? w« literally fi««l f'^™ mornmg until n'ghtj Jj 
 meS, wXn. and chUA^n. They .« wually muct better 
 
nr 
 
 ( 
 
 IM 
 
 nvMAt or nu 
 
 i| 
 
 . it 
 
 ■lad thtn any other tribe omI or wm( of the monntaini, «r« 
 quite ckenly, and are an induatrkHM people. They hare made 
 eooekterable advitncea ia eullivatinf the aoti, and have large 
 drovoe of horaea, ami many Af iham are raiaing large herda of 
 eaUlo. Mr. and Mni. SpeMin* have kept op a aehool, and 
 many of the Indiane have meoe great pmAeiency in apeUing, 
 readiiw, and writing. They uae die Engliah alphabet to th« 
 Nei Perc4 language. Mr. Spalding haa made aoane ti«nela« 
 tieaa from the Benpturee, and among etbera from the book ot 
 Matthew. From Uiia printed oopy many of the Indiana hav« 
 printed with a pen fao aimilea of the tnnalation, whieh an 
 neatly executed. I have eeveral e<^iee in my pcaeeeeion ol 
 theae ami other writinga, whieh oen be aeen at any time ii 
 Laurel, Indiana. They are a quiet, eivil people, bnt proud am 
 haughty i ther endeavor to imiiale the faahione of the white* 
 and owe much of their aupeiinr qnaliAcatione to the Miaaioa 
 ariea who are among them. 
 
 Mr. Spalding and &mily have labored among ihem for ick 
 yeara aaaiduouajy, and the inereaaing waata and denanda ol 
 the native* requhre an additional amounti»f labor. A faai> 
 ily of their own ia riaing aronnd them, which ■ e c a a earily 
 reqnirea a portion of their titde ; and the inoreaaing earee of 
 the family render it impoeaiUe to do that amount of good, aad 
 carry out folly that poUey which they have ao advaatageonaly 
 oommenoed for the nativea. It ia Impoeeible for oo* family Mi 
 oounleraot all the influenoaa of bad and deaigiiiag men, of 
 whom there are not a few in the eoantry. Tfiey nead met* 
 aaaiatanee. There are a auAmeut number of eetabliahmenlflt 
 but not a auiBoient number of peraona at Ihoae eataUiahmenla. 
 For iaatanee : Mr. Spalding muat now attend nolooly to raia> 
 ing produce for hia own famUy, but alao to aupply in a great 
 meaanre food to numanma (amiliea of Indiana i to ae« aa teacher 
 and apiritnai guide, aa phyeieian, and perform laaaT other du« 
 tiee incident to hia ailuation. With auch a mnltitada of elaims 
 on hia attention, hia energiea are too nock divided, and on the 
 whole hia miuenoe ia leaaened. Coukl not lb* Miaaionary 
 board aend out an aaaiatantt 
 
 There ia one thii« which could b* aecooipUabed with • 
 anall outlay, that would be of hating advantage t* thee* peo 
 pie. They are raiaing email floeka of ahoep, and have beett 
 taught to card and apin and weave by hand, atod prepare doth* 
 iug^^bat the prooaaa ia toe tadiooa. ▲ mrding ibaehia* and 
 maabiiwry for fcUing etotb woold to a aaviqf to tto bond tt 
 
if ih« monnuini, iir« 
 >l«. Th«y havt mad* 
 
 ■oil, ana hav« large 
 liaiuf larg* harda of 
 pi up a aehool, and 
 nAciancy io aptUing, 
 |(iah alphabtl to lh« 
 
 mail* aonna tranala* 
 «ra from Um book i^ 
 • of iho Indiana hav« 
 Bnalatkm, whieh an 
 in ny pcaaoaaion ol 
 a««n at any lima U 
 people, bnl proud am 
 ahJN)na of too whilM 
 tiona to Um Miaaios 
 
 I among Iham for lak 
 uita and donaada of 
 nt-of labor. A fam- 
 n, whieh Mc aaaarily 
 I inoraaaing earea of 
 amoMnk of good, a»d 
 TO ao ndtaalagaoaaly 
 Iblo for OM family m 
 1 daaigiiiaf man, of 
 y. liMy iraai mon 
 tar of oatabliahaMnlat 
 thoM oauMialinHala. 
 ttaad nolooly to ni»> 
 » to Mpply in a graai 
 iaaai toaelaatoaehor 
 rform mmit oUwr do* 
 a Boltitada of elaims 
 :li diridod, and on tho 
 I not Ibo liiaaionory 
 
 aeeonpUabod widi • 
 Irantafa to ihaao pao 
 ahaap* tod h«v« boen 
 ■d, aiid prtparooloth* 
 eardiogiMehiM and 
 •vii^ to lh« baud at 
 
 ma ROOKY MWNTAWa. 
 
 iIWIW 
 
 IM 
 
 rtoh maeh.«.. in »hai rouniry. Tha wood wwk of ihoj. 
 iahin*. eouid n..rly .11 bn don. in ih« counirr j iha earda 
 and oaatinca ara all ihal would ba n«r*a.ary lo ahip. A mo- 
 ehanio to aal up iho machine wouW ba nawMary. 
 
 P«l»p« no Jart of Iha world >• ballar ad.p»«i to iha growth 
 Of w«r'3..n Vhi. middla r^ion, «Ki il .bound, w'th waur- 
 Iwar to manufa^nr. it. Farmaia. machanica and toachai^ 
 KVd ba —I among thaao p«»pf by Ui. ";!«'<'"*n; .««r^ 
 Sbylhagomnmanu A diriatoo ia ^l b..ng m«la in *w 
 !.««. whCh if not 80unur«5tod. will doobOaa. Uad to bad 
 SSJI"^. Th«. Dalawaro MiaD. hara «ro«|Kl ih. 
 t^SSTand aa«dod on tha Kooakoo.k«i unoH H- N«« 
 KSuduS^ O^ of th«n. nunad Tom Hill, ba. « -ngn- 
 S2 JSImI? Into dto foaUng. of Oto Na. P«'-J2^jr' '^ 
 Z haa aueaaodad in panuadiiif rf»«t ona homlrwl lodgoa to 
 tiS^todgThSi aa thalr chtrf- I» *« f*™*''/. " *^ 
 STtriS. cu.tom.ry for « I«li.n to •«». - -.rj; wir- 
 .. ha aould mMnudoi but the mi-ion.n.. unght th.m oUtor- 
 wiao, and .ucce«d«l in aboliahing ihi. haathaa coatom. Bol 
 Tom Hill tolU th«n that they en h.». aa msny wiraa - ihay 
 dImm Ha a.ya to them. You make in* chief, «id I wU 
 KkTyou . grJt paople. Tha whila man tall you not to .t«J 
 II!!l U^oa Ura iailo harm in It ; U.a bad conaiau m bainf 
 oMitht at It. Thaao men wiU t=«»le.d you, dw., Ac, 
 
 fiUia Md the other ehiefa h.re eiertod ihemaelve. to recjd 
 llMir people, bal they cannot euoceed. In eonroraing wiin 
 
 !»oM hhTaeople. Ha mewered that he oerer knew . omo 
 rfSXni J.'Sl. «• of Tom HiU'e. He fook. upo« him 
 m n^ay ««. The two other Detawwe Indun. .f young 
 ZJ^S «• todaetrioaa »d pe«5e.ble. They h.« com- 
 BMaeed oaitirrting the aoiU and are rwaing a fine herd ot ciUe. 
 SSfa^oSderSl wadthy. He h- .bout fifteen hundnjd 
 ^Heee. • herd of eetUe, aoma hoga. and a few '^9-J*^ 
 W« •■ M» nation hare from ite to JlAeee hundred head 
 ^n^. la traToUog from Dr. Whitman', to thai pbee. I 
 2w^ than toa thoJIaand horaea araaing upon the plataa. 
 TWrnr aM .nad lookiac. Mid aoma of them large. 
 
 SSSnMtS. eaquirie. aa to whether it wa. praetf 
 -hi to eSdn *a aeeaeawy «ippUea at theee mlaaion. foi 
 
 «BtliBlhaaoBldAirBbhaawi«h«o«raiMl«aat. Wahada*. 
 
IT 
 
 tM 
 
 iuvwM. or mAvw* otR* 
 
 ! 
 if 
 
 ;!■ 
 
 rordingly eonlf mpUtiKl pmcarmK a pwrl of our owtfil al ihta 
 n\tet. A few liwl «lr«i|rning Imltana had fri^queniljr giwn Mr 
 Mpaldinff irtmblfl alioui liu plara.and hud matia aa»ar« (hraaM. 
 Al ona lima lh«y had ihrralmul Ui «!« him. and dri»a hia hmiiv 
 ■way. 'I'hay r«.m|»l«in«l »hal iha whiiaa nB»«r cam« ihrou^h 
 ihair eounlry, |»»»nf tham iha adranlafaa of Uatlai b«it thai Uia 
 whita man paaafd ihrowfh ihe Cavuaa rounlry. aalling iheir 
 ealtia, clothliw. &«•• J and thai if tnay could nol ha»a all Ut« 
 bcnaflla of Irad.*, iha whitra aho«l«l laave llta eounlry. 
 
 Early in tha apnnn aoma of iham had got into a ft! of iM 
 humour, and had onlrrrd Mr. Hpal.lmif from iha plaoai. cui 
 op«n hia mill-dam, ihraw down hw fencea, broka iha windowa 
 of tha ohureh. erippWd aoma ef hia hoga. ami took poaaaaaw* 
 of Iha whole pramlaw. Thle lima thav awiiiiad •» " «'^'; 
 mined to carry their threatt into asacntioo. Mr. 8. u>o«M 
 them to take iheir own conrae, putiint no oha«a«la in thaw 
 way. The principal men aaamed to look on wiih indiffaren** ; 
 but ther etldendy aaw that it waa likely to injure them, mor« 
 than it would Mr. Hpdding ; for they relied upon the miU an4 
 farm for their aupport to a |rea« eilent 
 
 In tha meantime Mr. Spaldinn had writt«n « »et»« to a«, 
 Informinff ua of hie aitaation. and that we could not rely on 
 him for fumlahing ua with auppllea. He o« ^* wt**' »• 
 an Indian to carry to Dr. Whitman'a. that it mifht he fo^. 
 warded to «e. The Indiana b«in|f appnaed of the eontenla of 
 the letter, atopped the carrier, and took from him the letter, 
 and after a conaoltation determined to abandon their raah 
 eourae ; aa it would be likely to deprive them of the benefit of 
 our trade, and be a barrier againat the whito men ever coming 
 to trade with them. They awordinjjly brotifht the Wtter to 
 Mr. Spalding, acknowledging they had done wrong, and placed 
 hhn in fnll poaaeaaion of hie premiaea. promiamg to behave 
 better for the future { and when we arrived he waa enjoywf 
 their ftill eonfidnnee. 
 
 The Indiana Informed ua that there waa a good paeaway 
 npon the north aide of Lewia'a fork, by pioceedmg up the 
 Kooakooakee aome aixty milea, and then etnklng aoroaa to 
 Salmon river, and then up to Fort Boia. By uking thia route 
 in the winter aeaaon, we would avoid the deep anow upon the 
 Bine MonnUina,aa the ronte ia moatly up the valley of Lewia 
 river, and it ia undoubtedly nearer to Puget Sound than by the 
 dd route. Thoae wlahing to aettle about the Bound wouli do 
 well to take thia route, or »t Uaet the enving in the dietoice 
 
nrM 
 
 of our iwtfSl tl ihU 
 frfqutnUjr gtnn Mr 
 niMl* Mv«r« ihrMM. 
 , iikI dri*« hit fenitlv 
 I ne»«r cam* ihroufK 
 oflTMlMi IxH thai til* 
 country, tcllinf iheir 
 lultl not h«*a til Uta 
 iIm oouniry. 
 (i fol into B Al of iH 
 [ from tK* pUo*. eui 
 it, brnka lh« wimkiwa 
 , wmI UHik poMMsion 
 Y MMiinml to (m tktar- 
 mi. Mr. 8. tUowad 
 no ohata<!la in thair 
 on wiih itMliflarenrfl ; 
 to injnra iham, mora 
 ii«d upon iha milt and 
 
 rritlan a ktiar to ua, 
 w« ooold not raiy on 
 Ha gava tha latlar to 
 that it mifht ha for. 
 «4mI of the eontania of 
 from him tha lalter, 
 t abandon thair raah 
 them of tha benefit of 
 hitfl men ever oominf 
 ' brooght the latter to 
 one wronf , and placed 
 I. promiainf to behave 
 ived he waa enjoyinf 
 
 waa a good paaaway 
 by pioceading up the 
 ten atriking aeroaa to 
 By uking thia route 
 le deep tnow upon the 
 ip the falley of Lewia' 
 iget Sound than by the 
 ut the Hound wouK' do 
 asTing k tha dittawa 
 
 TIIH HOOrr MOWNTAIW* 
 
 ttl 
 
 would Joitlfy an examination of tha route, to aaeertoln Itt p»«- 
 ticability. 
 
 We Were vary hoapiuhly •nteruinml by Mr. Rp«l.llng. and 
 hia Interrating family. W 
 
 hia mterfung ..m.-y. -Hh .ha "«^P'«" ? ,7' V''*;;': 
 who la now en«.g«.l on tha miaaion farm, and Mr. (-«.«. wh« 
 r.. . n"..va fof. w.f.. and 11»m «'« hundred yard, from Mr. 
 Spalding'- .«w.ll.ng. tha n«r«.t white '•'T"''? -r ^J" J ,7; 
 Vfalkar and ElU. who r..*.. . miaaion mte hundred and U^ir y 
 miU. to tlie north, among the Flalheid nation i rnd Dr. Whit- 
 :;!rliy on- Cdr^ ami «fty mUae di.U«^ among Uta 
 
 ^TthT. lonely aitu.tlon th.y hare .cent .\. be.t P"; of Oidr 
 .Wv. .mn.i<r the wild •avagea. ind for no eompenaaiion but a 
 
 X. "-'--•" '^' -"y rrit'':'..r*r;ino"i 
 
 were fompelletl to ua« horte meat for food, but I bay are now 
 JurngTer^ of domeatic .nim.ia abcut them and raiae a .uj; 
 nlua of iraln beyond their own want*. Al Mr. «P«>'"ni • 
 SereiaSTe.cua; for a grlat mill, which ^'^'"Jl^^'V? 
 tf^e grain, but they have no bolUng doth . In jjaee of which 
 Sey uae a .ieva. The meal makea vary good bread. Thaw 
 WM formerly a aaw mill, but the irona have »«*"^f«rf 
 ...d in a mill which Dr. Whitman haa recently built about 
 Jienty X frT hi. dwelling, at the fool of the Blue moun- 
 ZT ThrCathollea have ae'veral miaaionary eatabHahmant. 
 
 nnon the upper watera of the Columbia. 
 
 "T«^J. fSd, of April w, had mad. ** «"r"Vh^T; 
 menla. and atartmi on our return to Dr. Whi^an . whe«. w. 
 arrived on the Uih. On my way down In the fall. I had left 
 iTora. and a heifer with the Doctor. They w«a "ow run- 
 ning on the plaina. Several pertona w«e engagwl in hunting 
 S up; the horM> wm found and br«i|ht in. ainl wa. in 
 ZJ^ndlUou. The Indiana had concealeJ the horae. tn ordar 
 rSr. trade, and offered to boy him. th^ to «n «- riak 
 of finding him; but a. he waa a favorite horaa. that I h^ 
 SoSghtTrom home. I felt gratUW when he waa found. Fhe 
 heifer I ti«led for a horae, the puwhaaer to find her. My 
 two o«en. which I had left at Mr. Spriding'a. I tr«led for a 
 ho«e. An Indian who had atolen a horae from a company 
 in the m, h»A been detected, and the horae Uken to fort Wal- 
 "walla. Ho had again atolen the hor... and traded htm off. 
 H. WM at Dr. WhUman'.. and aa the owner waa of our party, 
 be made a demand for the horw, and the Indian gave up a 
 
 
1S3 
 
 jouBNAL or thavum ovsb 
 
 t ■ 
 
 poor old horM in ita stead. Thia was the aame fellow thai 
 had bought my heifer. 
 
 We remained at Dr. Whitman** until the 17th, when all waa 
 prepared, and we made a formal alart. Our party conaiateU 
 of eighteen persona, and fifty-one hnrsea and mulea. We 
 traTeled about eight miles, and encamped. On the 18th, w* 
 traveled to the Umaiillo. On the way the fellow who had 
 bought the heifer overtook ua and demanded the horse, aa h« 
 aaid he had not time to hunt up the heifer. I refuaed to give 
 it up, and he insisted. At this juncture Dr. Whitman over- 
 took us, and the Indian made complaint to him. It waa ar> 
 ranged that we ahould all go on to Umatillo, where several of 
 the chiefs resided, and have the matter amicably settled. W« 
 reached the %«er in the aderooon, and repaired to the chief's. 
 The Induin told his story; and I told mine. The chief deci> 
 ded that I ahould give up the horse, and he would ^ve me a 
 hoiae for the heifer. I agreed that in case the heifer could 
 not be found, to give him anotlier on my return to Oregon. 
 The Indian set out with his horse, and the chief soon brought 
 me one in its place, worth at leaat two anch as the first. Of 
 course I was much pleased with the exchange. 
 
 At night it commenced raining, and then snowing, and in 
 the morniuff the enow was four or five inches deep on tlw 
 ground. We were then immediately at the foot of the moun- 
 tain, and as we expected the snow had fallen deep upon the 
 mountain, we remained in camp all day. The 90th was unfa- 
 vorable for traveling, and we remained in camp. • 
 
 On the 21st we took np the line of march, aaeended the 
 mountain, and advanced about twenty-five miles, whieh 
 brought us over the dividing ridge. We found the snow in 
 
 gktehes, and sometimee three feet dee|H~that is, the old snow. 
 t the new fallen snow had all melted away. The graiing 
 was poor, but at night we fiuind a prairie upon the south side 
 of the mountain, which afibrded a scan^ supply of grass ; here 
 we encamped for thtf night. 
 The S2d was very blustery, sometimes snowing ; very disa- 
 
 nablo traveling. We reached the Grand Round at 3 o dook 
 i. and encamped. Here we found an abundance of good 
 grass, and halted for the night. During the night the horae 
 which I had obtained of the old chief broke from his picket, 
 and in company with one that was ninninc kwse, took the 
 back track. In the morning we dispateb«l two men, who 
 followed them about four miles, when it waa found that the 
 
yvwM 
 
 the saine fellow that 
 
 ie 17th, when all waa 
 Our party conaiateU 
 n ana mulea. We 
 i. On the 18th, w« 
 the fellow who had 
 ided the hnrae, aa he 
 er. I refuaed to give 
 I Dr. Whitman over* 
 I to him. It waa ar- 
 illo, where aeveral of 
 (nieably aettled. We 
 [paired to the chief 'a. 
 ine. The chief deci- 
 1 he would ^ve me a 
 saae the heifer could 
 ly return to Oregoo. 
 he chief aoon brought 
 inch ae the firat. Of 
 hange. 
 
 hen anowing, and in 
 B incbea deep on th^ 
 the foot of the moun- 
 fallea deep upon the 
 The 90ta waa unfe« 
 in camp. 
 
 ' march, aaeended the 
 ty-five milea, whieh 
 'e found the enow in 
 -that ia, the old anow, 
 away. The graiing 
 B upon the aoulh aide 
 aupplyofgraaaihere 
 
 B anowing; yerydiaa- 
 Dd Round at 3 o'clock 
 ao abundance of good 
 g the night the horae 
 »roke from hia picket, 
 nning kwae, took the 
 itehfMl two men, who 
 it was found that the 
 
 THE KOCKV MOUNTAlWe. 
 
 188 
 
 h„„«, hnd left .he road. The two ™«n ;«"» ^ack ten or 
 twelve milea. but could -ee nothing of the ho"e.. Jhey 
 h-n reiurneil to camp. We in the mean time had packed up, 
 end tr^vS »cro" 6rand Round about eight mile., when we 
 SncaS In the morning we .tarted back four men U, hunt 
 for thjhor*,; On the evining of the 24th our men relumed, 
 
 '"'o;;'t"mir:i n'gTthe 25.h we packed up, traveled about 
 twX »Ts miTclnd encamped on Powder nver. near the 
 
 ''%!teZ7.e traveled about twe^-fi- "»"••• Jj"*; 
 »8th we traveled about tweny-three mUea, and encamped n«ar 
 
 **'on*Ih; 29th we reached fort Boia. The people at the fort, 
 and "hT lDdi.n. in the vicinity, were evidently much alarmed. 
 BeforT reaching the fort, I aaw at a diatance numem.. col- 
 umn. of .mok7, alternately ri-ing ^^.'^^J^^JiSl/^i'i^ 
 another column would riao at a great dwtonce. Theae column. 
 ;? .moke .eemed to be aignal. that enemie. were n the coun^ 
 Srv The people at the fort were aeeminglv friendly, and .up- 
 Sed «. w^h'^ilk and butler. We ••[«'*^,««' 3"! 
 pund with caution, and with ^ eye to he defence^* J of 
 ftnrua and men Onr euard waa doubled. We *•" .»> j 
 S; mny InZ , to "fho-Ule demonatration waa exhibited. 
 %7Z wSon road cro«e. the river, but as the« w^ »o 
 Snia at the upper crowing, and the river wa. too Jiigh to 
 STwe d^Jwe/^pon travelLn. U.e *«?* "'J »i*;^ 
 
 On the 80th of April we packti op, and left fort Boia. i ne 
 tran led us up to the mouth of a atream coining m on the wjiUi 
 Se of I^wia river, about one hundred yard, in width. Thi. 
 we r^achld n about three mile.. Immediatoly at the croaamg 
 San Indkn viUage of the Shoehonee tribe When wiAm 
 one fomTof a ^le from the croaaing, an Indian who had 
 SL^Jour camp the evening before, waa aeen nding fanon.lv 
 S^. w.^J came up dfrecdy to me, «»«»d.ng h» hU 
 wSTI took of course; two or three were riding m front 
 luh rti. who aU ahook handa with him. He then turned and 
 S'thr;a; SirouJlThe buahe. to the crowing. At the poin^ 
 wSe» we came out, the bank wa. wme fifteen feet high. A 
 SSTw puS had been cut down, so a. to admit bu one hojee 
 1 S Vgo up the bank ; the village w» inim«d..tdy upon 
 Se bink. Si Sl«.overed.ome thirty orjorty Indjan. .tjnd- 
 ing near the point where the trail Mcended the bank. I toUe 
 
 .iWi.illl H .I H MMWiWl| 
 
,jm 
 
 144 
 
 JOURNAI* OF TRAVEW OVKR 
 
 to th« top of tha bank, where about fifuen Hgly looking In- 
 (liana were alanding, all atriving to almke handa, but my horae 
 woulJ not allow them to approach. 
 
 I paased on, tliu company following, and oa we forrned a 
 long ir«in, being in aingle file, by the time thoae behind werii 
 out of the creek, thoae in the lead were five or aix hundred 
 yarda from the bank, and over a ridge. 1 halted the front, for 
 all to come np, when I discovered that Buckley, who waa in 
 the rear riding one horae and leading another, had not ap- 
 peared over the ridge. Two of the men who were in the rear 
 went back for him. The horae which he waa leadmg aoon 
 came running over the ridge, and aa BucUey did not make hie 
 appearance, we auppoaed that aomething waa wrong. Othen 
 aurted back, but they all aoon returned, and we went on. In 
 a few minutea, however, one of the party came riding up, and 
 stated that the lodiam were going to charge udob ua. 
 
 At thia inatant » gun waa fired by them, and a hideout yeU- 
 ing waa heard at our heeU. The Indiana were drawn up 
 in line upon the ridge, all armed, aome with muaketa, and oUiere 
 with bowB and arr< *b. The feUovr who had mat ua, waa atiU 
 mounted, and ruficing hie horae from one end of the Ime io the 
 other, and all were yeUing like flende. 1 thought it <m»u<> not 
 be poMible that they would charge upon ua, and ordered aU 
 handa to move along alowly but cautiously, to have their arms 
 in readiness, and to keep the pack animals together, ao that 
 tliey could be atopped at any moment. We marched riong 
 alowly in close order, and paid no further remrd to the Indians, 
 than to carefully watch their movements. They followed along 
 a few hundred yarda, and halted, their yells then ceased, and 
 we saw nothing more of them. . . , j. 
 
 When the two men returned to Buckley, the mounted Indiaa 
 apoken of had Buckley'e horae by the head ; he had proposed 
 an exchange, but Buckley did not wieh to awap, and aaked him 
 to let go Uie bridle: the Indian held on, Buckley pulled and ha 
 pulled; Buckley rapped his knuckles with a whip, and m the 
 scuffle the horae that B. waa leading broke loose, and ran over 
 the ridge, they not being able to catch him. At this juncture 
 the two men arrived; one of them raiaed hie rifle m the attt- 
 tude of atriking the Indian on the head, but he paid no regard 
 to it; the other, seeing his determined manner, ruahed at him 
 with hie bowie knife ; he then let go the bridle, and our men 
 came up to Uie company. What his object was, or what their 
 object in rallying tfceir forces, I could not coiyecture : but tt 
 
 fk 
 
 J 
 
 i 
 
OVKR 
 
 ben ugly looking In> 
 I handi, but my iion* 
 
 and aa we formed a 
 ne thoae behind were 
 1 five or fix hundred 
 
 I halted the Aront, for 
 Buckley, who waa in 
 
 another, had not ap- 
 I who were in the rear 
 
 he waa leading aoon 
 kley did not make hia 
 ; waa wrong. Othera 
 
 and we went on. In 
 y came riding up, and 
 arge upon ua. 
 im, ana a hideous yeU> 
 diana were drawn up 
 ilh muaketa, and othere 
 
 had met ua, was still 
 e end of the line io the 
 
 1 thought it could not 
 on ua, and ordered all 
 sly, to have their arms 
 imals together, so that 
 . We marched along 
 ir regard to the Indians, 
 . I'hey followed along 
 yells then ceased, and 
 
 ley, the mounted Indian 
 lead ; he had proposed 
 to swap, and asked him 
 Buckley pulled and ha 
 vith a whip, and in the 
 oke loose, and ran over 
 him. At this juncture 
 led his rifle in the atti- 
 I, but he paid no remrd 
 manner, ruahed at him 
 he bridle, and our meo^ 
 bject was, or what their 
 not coi\jacture: but it 
 
 THE HOCKY MOUNTAIN* 
 
 185 
 
 
 nut US on our guard. At our night encampment there were 
 Ci^Trowling about, but they were afraid of our r.d.ng too 
 near hem L made no attempt to steal, or otherwise molest 
 r The country was exlremdly dry and barren ; graxmg was 
 
 ' "onTJ 6th of May we arrived at the upper "0";?K J^ ^^^^^ 
 river On our way we had seen several villages ot hhoshonee 
 IndTans b»rwere not disturbed by them. ''The grazing waa 
 poor, a^d he country very barren.' We crossed several warm 
 
 ream, running d..w^, fro'm the •"-"«-'»•• ^^^.VTwaion 
 a distance of from five to ten miles on our right. A wagon 
 load «nbi had along the south side of the river, by hugging 
 hrbwe of the mountains for twenty or thirty miles, when it 
 wSi^; ^ke ioln the low bottom of Snake or Lewis river; but 
 the distance is greater than by crossing the river. 
 
 On the 6th oT May we reached Safmon falls, and went up 
 aix miles to Salmon Fall creek, and encamped. On theSth 
 and 9th it rained and snowed, so that we were compelled to 
 Uy by most of the time. On the lOlh itcleared up, and in he 
 aX>nioon we had fair weather and pleasant traveling. On the 
 iSt^we resthed Cassia creek. At this place the Califorma 
 
 *™JnTe Uth we ar/ved at Fort Hall. On the 16th we 
 reeled the Soda 8pr(!.gs. On .he 18th we mot about «x 
 ^dred lodges of Snake Indians ; they were moving from B^g 
 E river to Lewis' fork. On the 28d we reached Green 
 S«r, Sng tfi^no"rthL route.. Much of thejmeje ae- 
 ther has bein cool wiUi frosty nights, and several days of ram 
 
 "orthi 24th we crossed Green river, and traveled about 
 forty mui to the Big Sandy. The day was blustering, w.th 
 mTJTd snow. Along the' bottoms of the Sandy we found 
 
 "2n«r ffi^e tv^eUrr LitUe S«dy. On^U. ^Jh 
 
 ?:S.t Wator was extremely unpleasant on «^«ntof Oie wmd 
 and snow. We were sometimes compelled to walk, in order 
 to k^ warm. We here found a horse, which we supposed 
 had b^n lost by some emigranta the year before. He came 
 nmnin. to our band, and exhibited signs of the greatest joy. 
 TyTplSring and nralicing about. He was quite fat, and seemed 
 detemiinea to follow us. 
 
r 
 
 186 
 
 JOURNAL or TIUVKW OVEK 
 
 On trte 27lli we traveled down iho valley of Sweel Vlelef 
 about twenty-live miles. On our way we ei»w «omfl hiiudrede 
 of buffalo and antelope, and two griiily bean. We •P've the 
 latter chaae, but did not aucceed in taking them. VVe had 
 lome difficulty in preventing our pack aniinnli from followmg 
 the numeroua banda of buffalo which came rolling past -la. 
 
 We traveled down this vallev until the 80ih. and encamped 
 about four miles eaat of Indrpmdmee Rock, at a aprnig near 
 a huire mountain of gray granite rock. Soon after encampmg 
 it commenced raining, which turned to anow,«nd m the morn, 
 ing we had about five inchea of enow upon u». We were un. 
 comfortably aituated, aa we could procure but little fuel, and 
 had no meana of sheltering ourselvea from the "pelUnga of the 
 pitiless storm." Our horses too fared poorly. 
 
 On the 81st of May we remained in camp. By noon the 
 •naw had disappeared, and we succeeded in finding a few dry 
 cedar trees, built a fire, and dried our effecU. We had an 
 abundance of buffalo marrow-bones, tongaee, and other choice 
 pieces, on which we feasted. We «nw large drove* of moun. 
 tain sheep, or big-horn, and thousands of antelope. 
 
 On the 2d of June we arrived at the north fork of riatte. 
 The plains during thia day's travel were literally covered with 
 buffalo, teoa of thousands were to be seen at one view ; ante- 
 lope and black-taUed deer were aeen in great •b«n«»»n«^ •M 
 • few elk and common deer. One panther, and hundreds of 
 wolves were abo aeen. We found the river too high to ford. 
 Soon alter encamping, anow commenced fallinf . which con- 
 tinued idl night, but melted as it reached the grtwind. I lie 
 Erazinff on the bottom was excellent, the grass being about six 
 mches high. This waa the best graa* we had seen since leav- 
 
 inff Burnt river. . . , . , 
 
 On the 8d we succeeded in finding a ford, and in the evening 
 we crossed. On the 4lh we reached Deer creek, n»«nf »»• 
 veled about thirty miles. On the way we saw a band of In- 
 diana whom we auppoeed to be of the Crow nation, and ae 
 they are generally for fight, we prepared to give them a wtnil 
 reception ; but it seemed that they were as fearful of us, as we 
 were of them. They were soon out of sight After iraTeling 
 about five miles, we saw them drawn up into line two milee 
 from the road. As they were at a respectful distanee, we did 
 not moleat them. We however kept a aharp look out, and at 
 night were cautioua in selecting camp ground. 1 he graee waa 
 good, and our animals fared well. 
 
 B 
 
 L... 
 
OVER 
 
 alloy of Sweet Water 
 e inw aomn hiiiidretls 
 hean. We mve (he 
 king them. We had 
 niiiinli rrom Tollowing 
 ne rolling poat tia. 
 a SOtli, and encamped 
 Rock, at a apriiig near 
 Soon after encamping 
 now, and in the moru* 
 on u». We were un- 
 jre but little fuel, and 
 mthe^peltiogaof tha 
 Mwrly. 
 
 camp. By noon the 
 d in finding a few dry 
 effecto. We had an 
 r«iM, and other choice 
 large drovea of rnouo* 
 if antelope. 
 
 I north fork of Platte. 
 I literally covered with 
 »en at one view ; ante- 
 great abandance, and 
 ther, and hundreda of 
 river too high to ford, 
 ed falling, which oun- 
 lied the grtNind. The 
 9 graea being about aix 
 ire had aeen linee leav> 
 
 nrd,and in the evening 
 )eer creek, having tra< 
 vre eaw a band of In« 
 B Crow nation, and aa 
 d to give them a wamt 
 !ae{earittlofua,u we 
 aight Al\er traveling 
 up into line two milea 
 >eetrul distance, we did 
 k aharp louk out, and al 
 [round. The grata wa* 
 
 Ttre BOCK/ MOUNTAIN& 
 
 187 
 
 On the 6th we traveled alnwt fifteen milea, and encamped 
 on Mike'a-heHd creek. Here we found two trapper., wh., had 
 been out about three weeka. They accompanied ua to Port 
 Uramie. which we reached on the 8ih of June. In the morn- 
 ins H. Smith, one of our party, in catching a mule w thrown, 
 Md hia ahoulder di.loc.uld. We attempted to aet i.. but could 
 not aucceed. He traveled on to the fort, but ,n gre»' ""•^'T; 
 We remained here unUl the afternoon of ">« 10th. Mr 
 Smitk'a aitouWer waa ao much injured that he could not travel. 
 He concluded to remain at the fort a few daya ; three men were 
 to auy with him, and the rest of ua nad made arrangement, 
 for alirting, when a company of Oregon emigrant* came in 
 aisht. We awaited their arrival, and had the gratification of 
 hiring from the Suie., it being the firat new. we had received 
 aince leaving our home.. A part of ua remained a few boura 
 to give them an opportunity of wriUng to their fnend.; while 
 five of the party look the road. In Uie evening we traveled 
 about eigiit milea, and encamped. „„.;„„ 
 
 We continued for a diatance of two hundred milea meeting 
 eompaniea of from aix to forty wagona, until the «'!>•»«>"'"«;. 
 ed five hundred and forty^ne wagona, and averagmg *^[^2 
 soula to each wagon. They were generaUy m good healUi 
 and fine apiriu. Two hi rtdred and twelve wagona were bound 
 for California; but I have 4nce learned that """X f J°J« 
 who had deaigned to go to Califomui had changed thdr deaU- 
 naUon and were going to Oregon. 
 
 At Aah hoUow we met a company who had loat a»«»y <>« 
 their cattle and horaea j but ihey were aull going on. A aliori 
 diatance below the forka of Platte, we met •«»!T"tl r 
 one wagona, under the command of a Mr. Smith, which com- 
 Zy hS kit about one hundred and fifty head of cattle ; they 
 W«iene««ped.andparae' r"* «»i ^unUng cattle. We re- 
 mained withliem a abort time, and than paaaed on. Thia 
 "r^n the 18th of June. Two of Smith'. comp«iy had 
 taken the back tr«sk in aearch of a ba.^ of the« catde. which 
 had traveled neariy forty mUaa on the return to the State.. 
 Near »igh^ and after we had encamped, two other, of the com- 
 panr cabTap in .eareh of the two men who had atarlad m 
 Se ietmng. We had aUo mat a boy belonging to th«r com- 
 pTiiTwhoTiad bean in ««reh of catUe, but h^ found none ; 
 Jn?M it waa neariy night, «id ha wa. about thirty mdeefioni 
 !h.ir^eiiip, wa uiaoc2l him to »«nain with u. through the 
 
 night. 
 
 IS 
 
(I 
 
 1S8 
 
 JOURNAL OF TRAVEUI OVKR 
 
 The iwo men who n».d •rtiriKl after we had encamped, con. 
 
 olnded to continue their eaarch until Uiey found the two other 
 
 men who had preceded them. Accordingly arter taking aom* 
 
 refreahmenta, they mounted and followed on. Soon aHer darK, 
 
 they came running their horaea up to our camp, one of them 
 
 having behind him one of the men who had alartod out ui tte 
 
 I morning. They had proceeded from our camp about aeren or 
 
 ^ eicht mUea, when rising over a amall ewell m the prairie, they 
 
 ducovered a few head of calde, and aaw ten or twelve Indiana, 
 
 a part of them engaged in catching a horae which Mr. 1 rim- 
 
 ble (one of the men who had aUrted out in the mornini) had 
 
 , been riding, and aoroe were engaged in atripping the ololheii 
 
 ! ! from Mr. Harriaon, the other of the men. The men who had 
 
 left our camp put whip to their horaea, and ran towarda thai 
 
 Indiana, hallooing and yeUing. The Indiana seeing them ap. 
 
 i f proach, and probably suppoeing that there waa a large com- 
 
 ;■ pany, left Harriaon, and ran under a bluff, but they took th« 
 
 horaea with them. . . u u- -i i>_<,» 
 
 i! Harriaon put on hia dothea and mounted behind uratten, 
 
 1= (one of ihe men who had come to their rescue,) ataUng that 
 
 1' the Indiana bad killed Trimble, and aa none of the emimnte 
 
 had fire-arms, the Indiana would soon return upon them. I hey 
 (hen came to our camp. Harriaon atated that he and Trimble 
 had traveled neariy all day with that porUon of our party who 
 bad atarted from the fort in advance o( ua, and near night had 
 found five head of their cattle, with which they were return- 
 ing to the company ; and aa they were traveling leisurely 
 •loag, about duak, whiUt in a email hoUow, ten or twelve In- 
 diaiu came euddenly upon them, aeixed hia horae, and endeav- 
 ored to get hold of Trimble'a horae, but be jumped away, and 
 ran hia horae ott. Harriaon in the mean Ume had dumounlwl. 
 and three of the Indiana rifled him of hia clothes. On looking 
 to aee what had become of TrimMe, he saw him ndmg in a 
 eircuitoua manner toward* the place where Harriaon was ; at 
 thu instant aome half doien arrows were let fly at rn«n«>» "Y 
 the Indiana, some of which took effect He leaned a litde 
 forward, hia horae at the Ume jumpioB; at that inatont the 
 mek of » gun waa heard, and Tiimble fell from his horse 
 upon hia face, and did not move aflerwarda. Hie horse ran 
 round for aome minutes, die Indiana trying to catch him » and 
 at ihia instant Bratten and hia friend came up. . „ . 
 
 Several of our party, auppoaing that we had P»«~ «» ««>- 
 ger, had wld their arms to the emigrants, and we had but Ave 
 
 i 
 
own 
 
 re had encamped, con- 
 >y found the two other 
 ingly aAer taking loinc 
 d on. Soon after dark, 
 our campi one of thsm 
 ) had aurted out in Uw 
 ir camp about aeren or 
 yell in the prairie, they 
 ten or twelve Indimra, 
 lorae which Mr. Trim- 
 it in the inominr) had 
 I atripping the clothes 
 n. The men who had 
 I, and ran towarda th« 
 ndiana aeeinc them ap- 
 [»ere waa a large com* 
 i)luff, but they took the 
 
 lounted behind Bratten, 
 eir rescue,) atating that 
 I none of the emigrant* 
 etum upon them. They 
 ted that he and Trimble 
 jrtion of our party who 
 ' us, and near night had 
 rhich they were return- 
 rera traveling leiaurely 
 »Uow, ten or twelve In- 
 d hia horse, and endesv- 
 It be jumped sway, and 
 in time had dismounted, 
 lis clothes. On looking 
 he saw him riding in a 
 rhere Harrison was ; at 
 ere let fly at Trimble by 
 ect He leaned a litOe 
 ina; at that insunt the 
 ible f(ril from his horse 
 rwards. His horse ran 
 tying to catch him t *nd 
 »me up. 
 
 \ we had passed all dan- 
 nts, and we hsd but ftv« 
 
 THB ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 
 
 189 
 
 rifles In the company. It was quite dark, and there would 
 Ss but little proiipect of finding Trimble, if we attempted a 
 search. We Oieriifore remained in camp until morning. About 
 elevea o'clock at night we dispatched two por«,ns back to 
 inform the comptny of what had occurred, with a request that 
 a forc!i might be ient, which would be able to chastise the 
 
 ^"EtlVin'^h? morning w. packed up "d traveled to the 
 spot where the murder had been committed. We found there 
 ■rrimble's hat, whip, and pocket knife; "^several large pools 
 of Wood where he had fallen from his horse, and where the 
 lidian. had evidently stripped him We -'-^ ^-"J "2'? 
 Irrows two of which appeared to have struck him; but noth- 
 fnTrulJ be tid of hi. b<Kly. The river Platte was about 
 aju^rrof.mile distant; we «»arched the ahore d.hgenUy, 
 iTcol see no sign. As we approached the spot a gun w« 
 fired on a large island opposite, but we saw no Indians. Eight 
 bid."" the V- near where the attack was made, showed 
 the manner in which the Indians had been «>"»?«»«•. 
 
 It is highly probable that the Indians had driven tiie cattle 
 ofl^ and that some of the Indiana concealed themselvw, and 
 as Trimble and Harrison had no fire-arms, and carried long 
 ;iwhiji. they could be easily distinguished a. catUe hun- 
 tarsTan? the !ndi«.s knowing that the wh'te m«n must eome 
 Twk. Elected a favorable spot, and attacked them as above 
 
 "atad The obability is, that had Trimble and Hamwn 
 MMtn armed thev woultt HOt have been mowsted. 
 •^w/rTaln^'u Jn the ground nnUl late in the a^tarnooju 
 waitinc the arrival of the force from the company. We finally 
 
 whom we had sent bsck had l)een cut off; and as we had 
 Two of tfie company with us. and one of our party was b|jck, 
 we packed up aSd took the buck tr«:k, and after traveU^,? about 
 five^mUes, w. discoverml s band of their cattle wossing the 
 river . Sle above us. We made to the shore, when the cat- 
 SI" raed down the river, in the direction of the head of he 
 wL iJand We judged that the Indians had been driving the 
 SStS'STt-uprnZTp'o-h h«i >fi)f«;^^he river wj. 
 quite shoal, Md Buckley waded out and turned them to the 
 2hore. There wero in this b««i twenty-one he«l of wo'^ 
 eatde ; two of them carried marks of the arrow. After trav. 
 X 'throe miles farther, we espial the party commg to oi» 
 , but it eonsisted of only seven persons. 
 
140 
 
 JOURNAL or TRAVKI-1 OVF.B 
 
 Mr. Trimblti had left ft wife and four children. She had 
 aent by the party a requeal thai we mieht come bacii, and 
 allow herHiul family to travel with ua to the II. SttU-a. We 
 accordingly all took the road to the company'a camp, (dri»in| 
 thr, cattle) which we reached at day-break on the morning of 
 the aOUi June. Hero we remained unlil the afternoon. By 
 the perauaaion of her frienda, Mre. Trimble concluded to con- 
 Unue her journey to Orefon. But there were four familiea 
 who had loat *o many of their catUe, that they were unaW« 
 to proceed on their journey. They had four wagona. and only 
 five yoke of cattle, and aome of them were very amall. I hey 
 wiahed ua to travel with them ihroofh the Pawnee oounlry.aa 
 the Pawneea were the perpetrator* of the act which had cmuaed 
 them ao much difficulty. We acccrdinely traveled with them 
 until the 80ih, when we left them, and reaumed our journey 
 
 towarda home. «, -.u 
 
 On the morning of the 2lat we were joined by Mr. Hmitb, 
 and the three men who had been left at the fort. We trav- 
 eled on rapidly day and night, barely giving our aminala Ume 
 to reat. The weadier waa becoming warm; Ihe fliee ana 
 rouaquitoea were very annoying. We arrived at tlie Miaaion 
 or Agency on the morning of the 6th of July. Here are ex- 
 tenaive farma, and a moat delightful couniry. The fiiet view 
 of cultivated fields, and marka of civilixation, brought aimuJ- 
 taneoua ahouu from the whole parly. Our troubled and toda 
 were all forgotten. : . . .u^ 
 
 On the 7th of July, at 10 o'clock A. M., we amved at Um 
 Si. Joeeph'a miaaion. where we ail hoped to meet with friende. 
 We had been ao long among aavagea, that we reaembled them 
 mueh in appearance ; but when attired in new apparel, and 
 ahavad aa became white men, we hardly knew each oUier. We 
 had been long in each other'a company ; had unuergone toaira- 
 ahipa and privationa together; had paaaed thioujjh many dan- 
 aere, relying upon each other for aid and protecUon. Attwh- 
 menis had grown up, which when we were about to aepawte 
 were sensibly felt; but aa we were yet separated froin our 
 familiea. where atiU atronger ties were felt, each one look bu 
 eourae, and in a few hours our party was aeatt^red, and eaen 
 traveling in a different direction. ..,,.. .l^ 
 
 ThoM of ua who had mules found ready ealee; but M UM 
 horsea were much reduced in fiesh, they could uot be diii- 
 poeed of. Our hor»ee had stood the trip remafkmUy weU, untol 
 within two hundred and fifty uulaa of MiaaoorL But tb* iiaa 
 
ivr.n 
 
 children. Sh« had 
 light eonifl back, and 
 
 the U. SitUa. W« 
 tny'a camp, (tlriving 
 ik on tha morning of 
 I ilie aflcmoon. By 
 ble concluded lo con* 
 e were four familiea 
 lal they were unable 
 four wagon*, and only 
 re very amall. They 
 e Pawnee country, aa 
 act which had cauaed 
 ly traveled with them 
 returned our journey 
 
 joined by Mr. Smith, 
 t the fort. We trav- 
 viug our animala time 
 warm ; the fliea and 
 trrived at tlie Miaaioa 
 July. Here are ex- 
 niry. The fiiet view 
 ation, brought aimul- 
 )ur troublee and toila 
 
 M., we arrived at the 
 1 to meet with friende. 
 at we reaembled them 
 
 in new apparel, and 
 knew each other. We 
 
 had unuergone hard' 
 sd through many dan- 
 d protection. Attach- 
 vera about to aepanle 
 ■t aeparated from oar 
 elt, each one took hie 
 aa aeatt^red, and each 
 
 lady aalee; but aa the 
 liey could not be die- 
 remarktbly wdl, unul 
 liaaonri. Buttlwfliee 
 
 TUB ROCKY MOUNTAIN*. 
 
 141 
 
 had 10 annoyed them, the weailier being warm, and the giaaa 
 of an inferior qunlily. that ihay had failed much. I had hve 
 horsea ; the one which I hail taken from home waa quite lame, 
 and I left him at St. Jowfph'a ; the other four were Indian 
 horvea, and Mr. Buckley agreed to take them by land, acroea 
 MitMiuri and lllinoia, and home; but he waa unaucceaaful, 
 and arrived with only one of tliem. . „. ■ ■ ^ 
 
 1 took etcaiuboHt pataage to St. Lome and Cincinnati, anO 
 thence by atage t) Laurel, Indiana, where I arrived on the 23d 
 of July ; having been gone from home one year three monlha 
 and one week. I had the pleaaure of finding my lamdy en- 
 joying good health. 
 
 NEORaaART otrmra for rmioramtb travsliko to Orroon. 
 
 For burthen wagona, light four horae or heavy two horee 
 wagona ara the aiae commonly aaed. They ahould be made 
 of the beat material, well aeaaoned, and ahould in all caaea 
 have falling tongue*. The tire ahould not be leaa than one 
 and three fourth inchea wide, but may be advantageoualy uaed 
 three inchea ; two inches, however, i* the moat common width. 
 In faatening on the tin, bolu ahould be uaed inetead of nail* ; 
 it ahould be at leaat i or I inche* thick. Hub boxea for the 
 huba ahould be about four inchea. The akeina ahould be well 
 ateeled. The Mormon faahioned wagon bed » the beaL They 
 are uaunlly m»de atrmight. with aide board* about 10 inche* 
 wide, and a projection outward of four inchee on each aide, 
 and then another aide boerd of ten or twelve inchea; in thia 
 kut, aet the bowe for eovera, which ahould always be double. 
 Boxes for carrying effecU ahould be ao oonatruoted aa to cor- 
 reepond in height with the offaet in the wagon bad, aa this gives 
 a smooth surface to sleep upon. . rx 
 
 Ox teams ara mow extensively used than any others. Uxen 
 stand the trip much better, and ara not w liable to be atolen 
 by the Indiana, and ara much less trouble. Catde ara generaUy 
 allowed to go at large, when not hitched to the wa|ona ; whiUt 
 horses and mules most alvr»ys be staked up at night. Oxen 
 ran proenra food in many plaoea whera horses cannot, and in 
 much less time. Catde that have been laieed inlUinoiB or 
 Miaooari, stand the trip better than those nised in Indiaiw 
 or Ohio; aa they have been aeeuatomed to eating the pr»in« 
 grass, upon whieh they muat whoUy rdy while on the road. 
 
141 
 
 JOURNAL or TRAVnJi OVKH 
 
 Gnat cure •Would ht> itWen in wlectinf c«lUe; ihey thould b« 
 from four to lix ye«r» old, tifhl and heavy made. 
 
 For thoie who ftl out but on« wagon, it w not aafe to atari 
 with lata than four yoka .,f ^xen, aa thav art habU to gal 
 Umt, ha»e iora nacka, or to atray away. Ona taam thua flucd 
 up may aUrt from Miaaouri wsih twentv-fiva hundn-d pounda 
 and aa each day'a rationa make the load that much lif hi«r, »« 
 fore they reach any rough road, their loading ia much rwluci-d. 
 Peraona ahould reeollecl thai every thing in the outfit ahmiW 
 be <ui lieht aa the required ttrength wiU permit ; no uaeleaa 
 minipery should be taken. The lu«ding ahould conaiat of pro- 
 viaicma and apparel, a nene-aary aupply of cooking exuir«a, 
 a few Uiola, iic No great apwiulation can be made in buy- 
 ing cattle and driving them through to aell ; but aa the ftu-^» 
 ofoEen and cowa are much hif^her ia Oregon thsii m ihe 
 Statea, nothing ia loal in having a good iuupiy of them, which 
 will enable the emigrant to wag-m through many artjclea tha 
 are difficult to Jmj obtained in Oregon. Each family ahowW 
 have a few cowa, aa the milk can be uaed the enure rjote, and 
 they are often convenient to put to the wagon to relieve own. 
 They ahould be »o aelecled that portion* of them would come 
 in freah upon the road. Sheep can alao be advaatageoualv 
 driven. Amarieaii horaea and marea alwaya command high 
 prices, and with careful usage can be taken throu|h j but if 
 uaed U) wagona or earrlagea, their loading aliottld be light 
 Each family ahould be provided with a aheet-iron Jtov^ with 
 boiler; » platform can eaaily be conatruel*d for earrying it ai 
 the hind end of the wagon t and aa it Ja fr«i«eoUy quite wrady, 
 and there ia often a scMcity of wood, the atove la very oonve- 
 Dient. Each Umily ahould alao be provided with « leo^ and 
 to it ahould be attached good atrong eonto to faalen it down. 
 
 The cooking fixturea generally ua«jl are of ah^f ireo i m 
 dutch oven and akillet of caat metal are very eaa^nud. ¥lai«i. 
 eupa, Ac, ahould be of Un ware, aa qoeena-ware la much 
 heavier and liable to break, and conaumea much Ume in Mok- 
 iogup. A reflector ia aoroaamea very uaeful. Famdiea ahould 
 each have two ehurna, one for carrying aweet and one for aoar 
 milk. They ahould ala»T have one eight or ten galloa knr lor 
 earrying water, one axe. one ahovel, two or three augei^ on* 
 hand aaw, and if a farmer he ahould be prpvid^ with one 
 eroeaHSUt aaw and a few plough moulda, aa it la diffieult getting 
 aueh artidea. Whea I left the country, pUnifhi eoat fro» 
 twentyfivt to forty dolUie each. A good eapply of rope* for 
 
»tUfl ; they thould b« 
 kvy made. 
 
 il ia not mTv to sttrl 
 h«v art liabU to gat 
 
 One team thua flttad 
 •five hutidrci) pound* 
 that much lif hlar, b« 
 ding ia inurh mlucrO. 
 ( in th« outfit ahmiid 
 11 perknit ; no uattleaa 
 ahould eonaial of pro- 
 f uf cooking fixuinw, 
 can b« made in boy- 
 ell ; but M the pric«a 
 : Oregon thao in the 
 luupiy o( thain, which 
 f h many artiolaa that 
 Each family ahouUl 
 id tha entire rMte, and 
 iragon to reliuve oxen. 
 I of tham would come 
 lao be advantageoualv 
 ilwaya <!onimaod hign 
 «ken through { but if 
 iding aliotdd be light 
 
 aheet>iron.alov«, with 
 otMi for earrying it at 
 reqnently quite windy, 
 le atofe ia very oonve- 
 jvided with « tent, and 
 ik to faaten it down. 
 ; are of aheet iron ; » 
 very eea^niid. PUt««i| 
 queena-ware ia much 
 i«a much time in paoko 
 laeful. Familica ahould 
 aweel and one for aour 
 It or ten galloa knr for 
 o or three augera, om 
 be provided with one 
 , aa it ia diffieult getting 
 try, pioacha eoat fron 
 oodaiipplytrf' ropes for 
 
 THK aa^ltV MOUTTAIN*. 
 
 141 
 
 
 
 tying up hortea and catching cattle, ahould alao b« taken 
 Every p«f«on ihould U well auf-plied with booU and ahuee 
 and in lart with every kind of c oihing. It ia aJao well to ht 
 auppliad with at leaat one feather bed, and a good •••orlmenl 
 of bedding. There are no tame geeae m the country, but aa 
 Hbundaii«e of wiklonees yet il ta diffieult proc iring a auffl 
 cient fluanUty of feathera for a bed. The Muecovy ia the only 
 tame d«ek n the country. 
 
 ZkW :r.Je pereon ahcjuld have at leaat one ilfle gun, and a 
 ahot gun ia alao very uaeful tor wild fowl and imali game, i>t 
 which there ia an abundance. 'I'^ie beet »i«rd calibre for tiie 
 mountaina ia from thirtyHwo tu fifty-aix to llie (Mmnd ; bMt one 
 of from aixty to eighty, or even leaa, ia beat when tu the lower 
 eettlemftnta. The buffalo aeldom range beyond the South 
 V»*a, and never weet of Hreen river. The larger game are 
 elk, deer, antelojie, lu'uniain aheop «r bighorn, and bear. The 
 amall gamp are hare, rabbit, grouae, aage hen. pheaaan^ quail, 
 &«. A good aupply of awmonilion ta eaaential. 
 
 In laying in a aupply of proviaioiia for the iourney, peraona 
 will doubUeea be governed, in aome degree, by their meaaa ; 
 but there *» a few eaemiiala that all will require. 
 
 For eaph adult, theie ahould be two hundred pounda of 
 flour, thirty pounda of pilot broad, «evenly-five pounda of 
 becon, ten pounda of ri'^e, five pounda of coffee, two pounda 
 of m, twenty^ve poun la of aogar, hall a huahel of dried boana, 
 one buahel of dried fruit, two pounda of aaleralua, ten pounda 
 of aalt, half a buahel of com meal ; and it ia well to have » 
 half buahel of corn, parched and ground; a amall keg of vinegar 
 •hould alao be taken. I'o the above may be added aa many 
 good thinge a* the meane of the peraon will enable him to carry ; 
 for whatever ia good at Kome, ia none the leea ao on the road. 
 The above will be ample for the journey t but ahould aa ad- 
 ditional quantity be taken, it can readily be diajpo^ed of in th« 
 moaataina and at good piicea, noi for rawh, but for robea, dreaa. 
 ed akim, buckakin panta, moceaaioa, die. It ia alao \. ell for 
 fattiUiea te be provided with medieinea. It ia aeldom however, 
 that emigrania are aiek ; but aometimea eating; loo freely of freeh 
 bnffalo meat eauaea diarrhom, and unleaa it be cheeked aoon 
 wtoetratM the Individual, and leavec him a fit aubjecl for diaeaae. 
 
 The time uaoally occupied in making the trip from Mitaouri 
 to Oregon dty ia about five montha ; but with the aid of • 
 ntraon who haa traveled the rout* with an emigrating eonptax 
 die trip era be pevformed in ihcmt four nwDlhs. 
 
i 
 
 144 
 
 JOURNAL or Tiuvia* ovr* 
 
 Murh injury I. don. to t«im. in fcm 'J'"' «"' "'"l"; 
 to p.M Jh o«h.r. Em.gT.ni. .h.H,ld ro.kB .n .m v d.y 
 bu..ne.. of tr.»rlmg-r«.t.n« upon "« , •"7 . «'^"i '*! 
 
 h? OeUin. .nlo Urg« comp.n.«. -houU *« •'"'i*;'' "J^'i 
 »• n.ce.«r^y oomp«ll.d u, .»«v« men. urd.ly. t' ™ "Ti^ 
 Jimuyflv. w.«..«. \n . .ufllc«nl number ««*'''-/ 1,^;"^"^: 
 •rh« ^Ivanra .nd r«.r comp».u*. .hould nol J« »«•• ^'•" J,'^ 
 ly 5 hui lH.lwe.n. U m.y »« ..fe to go wiOi lU. Thelndi.n. 
 .re vary .nnoyinf on .ccunl of thmr ihietring propen.iU.-, 
 hul if well w..rhed. ihey wouM ..Idom put them into pr.cUc.. 
 Ferl. "hrid w.y. i^void r.n.bl.ng far from c.mp un.rm.d. 
 
 Snd if he .itempu to get .w.y from ihem wtth h« properi), 
 thov will .oineiimee "hoot him. .„!--.«»■ 
 
 •here are .ever.l point. tlonR the Mwourl whor. ••"^^ 
 h.ve been in the pr.cli.e of fltiin« out. Of the.e Indepen- 
 de^ce. 8 J^ph.knd Council Uluflr.,.re the mo.t "ot-J- For 
 iCmiirTJiur from Ohio. Indi.n.. lUinoi. «nd northern 
 Miluri Towl .nd^ MichiRan. I think St. Jo.eph the be.t 
 
 7 which tt the early .ea.on we travel are .omoume. »ery nign 
 . a oidS Outfii may be had at thi. H"«. «• ""d.Jy « .1 
 anv o her alonit the river. Work cattle can be bought in iU 
 St%r& twenty-ftv. to Uurty dolUr. per yoke. cow., 
 hortes. Ac, equally cheap. • . ., «. Inmmoh earlv in 
 
 "rive mOregon nntil after'lhe rainy .ea«,n eommence. in the 
 "^ Th'^3ini™n 'Srn Ohio. Indiana, lllinoi. M.chi. 
 
 gan* r, X ^'ntempUve traveling ^^ '"''J^ '^l,?.:;:; 1 
 rendeivou.. .hould .urt in timo to give their team, at !«••» »J» 
 TyVJr Ox te«„., after traveling four or five hundred mdw 
 Tn'AJtute*, at thai .ea«.n of the year. -^^ t."l£y mffi 
 tm a journey acro« the ™««°^"' ' ''"l^*;'*; '*"^ "'"^ 
 be exchanged for other., at or near the rendeivou.. 
 
 Farmw. would do well to uke along a good .upp y ol horw 
 gea4 M-hanic .hould take .uch t^U l^^^^^^^. 
 i» there are but few in the counuy, and thoee are new »i « 
 
 iL 
 
Tint MCKY IIOtNTAJNa 
 
 I4S 
 
 ovrji 
 
 ing lh«in. en<l««*onii| 
 I nukn an •very day 
 lie iunw fTound »wo 
 r<i likely ui rambU loo 
 lU) l»e •toi.led. tf vhity 
 < urdily. From l^n to 
 et to IrHvnl willi Mrety. 
 
 not b« 1«M than iwro* 
 viih lix. The Inditiw 
 
 thieving propeiwiliee, 
 put ihem into prectice. 
 ar from camp unarmed, 
 iiielimci aeek auch op- 
 iFerta he haa about him | 
 Jmib with hia property, 
 
 iteouri whore emijjrant* 
 ut. Of iheae Indepr n- 
 ire the moat noted. For 
 , lUinoia and northern 
 ik St. Joeeph the beat 
 laing of aevural atreama 
 re aomelimea very high) 
 ia point, aa readily aa at 
 ille can be bought in iu 
 dolUra per yoke, oowa, 
 
 >e »i Rt Joaeph early in 
 up the line of march by 
 *rever, have of^en aUrted 
 auch caaea they aeldom 
 leaaon tommencea in the 
 
 Indiana, lUinoia, Miohi- 
 by land to the pleee of 
 ^e their teama at leaat ten 
 our or five hundred milea 
 »r, would be unfit to per- 
 ; but dnubtleee they mtgnt 
 \e rendeivoua. 
 ng a good aupply of horae 
 loolaaaoreeaailycarrUd; 
 and thoee are held at •<• 
 
 orliiiant prirfi. Kvery family ahould lay In • food aupply of 
 ichool hooka for tlinir clnl.lran. ,,.,111 
 
 III caae ..f nn eiurrgrnoy. Hour can »>« bought at F<trt llnll. 
 •nd Fort l><ii-. two trading po«ta of Ih.- Ilu.itoii'. Uay t-oin- 
 p«„y. at twenty .lollare per hundred i ai.d by forwardmg w.ml 
 k> Spaldiiig'a niiaaiun, on the Ka«akoo«kee. they will pack out 
 flour to Fort lloia. nt tan dollm per hundred, and to the OramI 
 Hound atei«ht dollara, and will t«ko in exchange dry gooda. 
 gr.)ceriea, &<••! but at Forta Hall and lloia, the com p.. ny will 
 take nothing In payment but caah of cattle. At Dr. Whitman a 
 itation. flour can be bought at five dollara per hundred, corn 
 mral ut four dollara. bee? at aix and feveo oenU per pound, 
 p„l,toea. fifiy cotita per buahrl. It ia proper to obaerve thai 
 ihe flour ttt Spahling'. and VVhlt.nan'a alationa will be unbolu 
 ed. Emigraiiu howevar, ahould be cautioua, and lay u a euf* 
 Acicnt aupply to iMt them through. 
 
 It 
 
 "■■••» 
 

WORDS USED IN 
 
 THE CHINOOK JARGON. 
 
 This is a tonpie spoken by a few in each of the tribes re- 
 siding in the middle and lower divisions of Oregon. It is also 
 iised by the French, and nearly all the old settlers in the 
 country. 
 
 ^ach 
 Sister 
 
 Ma 
 Yes 
 
 ^Ika 
 
 Future, by and by 
 
 Ma 
 Present, now 
 
 Ala 
 
 I wonder 
 
 Mkott 
 Past time 
 Chawho 
 Come 
 Che* 
 New 
 
 Chinkamin 
 Iron, chain 
 
 Chuek 
 Water 
 
 Deob 
 Satan 
 
 DdU 
 Dry 
 
 EHh 
 Brother-in-law 
 
 Ekik 
 Fish-hook 
 
 ElHah 
 Slave 
 Eaick 
 Paddle 
 
 EsU 
 Com 
 
 Geleech 
 Grease 
 
 Halo 
 None 
 
 Hankachim 
 Handkerchief 
 
 Horn 
 House 
 
 How 
 Let us 
 
 Hod-hod 
 Mouse 
 
 High-you 
 O'isrtity, many 
 
 High-you-k-u>ah 
 Ring 
 
 Hul-u-e-ma 
 Strange, different 
 
 Hu-e-hu 
 Swop, exchange 
 
 Hoi 
 
 Drag, or pull 
 
 Ilipa 
 First 
 
 Ith-lu'd, or hud 
 Meat, desh 
 
 I-yak 
 
 Quick, 01- hurry 
 
 ll-a-ht 
 Soil, dirt 
 
 Jchwd 
 Bear 
 Ja-kum 
 Take 
 
 In'O-ti 
 Overdress 
 
 JthJu-k-ma 
 Gamble 
 
 I'Wa 
 Beaver 
 
 Ipi'toet 
 Hide 
 
 Ik-ta 
 What 
 
 147 
 
U8 
 
 Kah 
 Where 
 
 K'U-ta\ 
 
 Horse 
 
 Kaw'lo-kt-to 
 
 Gooae 
 
 Ka4uck 
 
 Swan 
 
 K-puH 
 Needle 
 
 Kot-tuek 
 
 Middle 
 
 Kap-o 
 
 Coat 
 
 Kct-nim 
 
 Canoe 
 
 Ka-ta 
 
 Why 
 
 Kap'iu-alla 
 
 Theft, Ileal 
 
 K4itm 
 Lead 
 
 Kaw-kaw 
 
 Crow 
 
 Klat'tHoah 
 
 Go, Walk 
 
 Kul-a-kuUa 
 
 Fowl 
 
 Kum-tux 
 
 DEnNITlON OF INDIAN WOUDB. 
 
 K-tvathen 
 
 Bell 
 
 K'tnacki 
 
 Dog 
 
 Klvgh 
 
 Split, or Plough 
 
 Ko-ptt 
 Done, finished 
 
 Kop-po 
 Older brother 
 
 Kow 
 Is to tie 
 
 K-wat 
 Hit 
 
 Kop-thut 
 Broken. 
 
 Ko 
 Arrived 
 
 Ktm-to 
 Behind 
 
 Kolh 
 Fence 
 
 Kutt 
 Hard 
 Klimin 
 Fine 
 
 Kle-il 
 Black 
 Ka-tcat 
 
 Know, or understand Afraid 
 Ke-a-wtdt Kom-mek 
 
 Love 
 All 
 
 Slow 
 K-walten 
 The ear 
 
 Beads 
 
 K6-ko-wett 
 
 Eel 
 
 Klcmt 
 Find 
 
 JTouMteHit* 
 How many 
 
 Kilapt 
 Turn over 
 
 Klip* 
 Upset 
 
 Ko-tl 
 Cold 
 
 Kap-wah 
 
 Alike 
 
 Kon'O-maxt 
 
 Both 
 
 Klo'Sum 
 
 Good-bye 
 
 Kta-hi-you 
 
 How do you do 
 
 JTatr-a-nainm 
 
 Alwaya 
 
 A7a-Aa-na 
 
 Out 
 
 Klim^n-wit 
 
 A falsehood 
 
 Krap-po 
 Toad 
 
 Kloae 
 Good - 
 
 Klat-ko 
 Them, thoM 
 
 Korio 
 
 Rum 
 
 Ko-pa 
 
 There 
 
 KUJo 
 
 Ketde 
 
 Klont-tua 
 
 I do not undentand 
 
 Klop-$ta 
 Who 
 
 Khuth-mofi 
 Female 
 
ORDS. 
 
 DmitmOJI OF INDIAN WORDS. 
 
 14t 
 
 Kilapi I 
 
 Ktt-koot 
 
 Turn over ■ 
 
 Down 
 
 Klipi I 
 
 Lrpo4o 
 
 UpMt ■ 
 
 Pan 
 
 Ko-tl I 
 
 Le-por-»hel 
 
 Cold I 
 
 Fork 
 
 Kap-wah 
 Alike 
 
 Lehash 
 
 Axe 
 
 Kon-tMtttud 
 
 Leg-utin 
 
 Both 
 
 Saw 
 
 Kla'hum 
 
 Lima 
 
 Good-bye 
 
 The hand 
 
 Kta-hi-you 
 
 LUa 
 
 How do you do 
 
 Head 
 
 Kaw-a-4ia$nm 
 
 Z«^e4 
 
 Alwaye 
 
 Feet 
 
 A7a-Aa-na 
 
 LtHnorlai 
 
 Out 
 
 Molasaee 
 
 jr/im-tn-t0tt 
 
 Z«fnon-fo 
 
 AfiUebood 
 
 Sheep 
 
 Krap^o 
 
 I/nett 
 
 Toad 
 
 Jacket, or vest 
 
 Klou 
 
 Zo-g) 
 
 Good 
 
 Rope 
 
 Klafko 
 
 lAp4a$h 
 
 Them, thoM 
 
 Boards 
 
 JTo-ao 
 
 Z«p-toa 
 
 Rum 
 
 Peas 
 
 Ko-pa 
 There 
 
 skmet 
 
 KU4o 
 
 Za-t0tn 
 
 Ketde 
 
 Oats 
 
 jnone^t 
 
 jxi*rAfii 
 
 I do not underttand 
 
 Oar.forbotta 
 
 Klop-9ta 
 
 U^WMk 
 
 Who 
 
 Snow 
 
 Kiotuh-maii 
 
 X<fium/< 
 
 Female 
 
 MoBBtain 
 
 Saddle 
 
 Lt'lo-im 
 
 Sharp 
 
 Le-poim 
 
 Apple 
 
 iM-buth 
 Mouth 
 
 Le-da 
 Teeth 
 
 Ze-Au 
 
 Neck 
 
 LMnora 
 
 Wild 
 
 lAuhimney 
 
 Chimney 
 
 Lemitten 
 Mitten 
 La-haJa 
 Feel 
 
 Le4e 
 
 A long time 
 
 Ixu-vattt 
 
 ■ilk 
 
 La-ttm 
 
 Tablo 
 
 Lep-o-lip 
 
 Boil 
 
 Le-nt-wtU 
 
 Stan 
 
 LMnit-rem 
 
 Medicine 
 
 Le-thaw 
 
 Shoe 
 
 Le-tack 
 
 Back, or bag 
 
 Xe-otam 
 White bear 
 
 Le-lu 
 Panther 
 
 Lt'pul 
 Chickeni 
 
 Leeor$tt 
 Trunk 
 Laport 
 Door 
 
 Leiiip I 
 
 Pipe 
 
 LoJo 
 Carry, or tota 
 
 Leb-ya 
 Old womaa 
 
 La4ure 
 Hoe 
 
 iM-eopt 
 White 
 
 La-cre-tne 
 Yellow 
 Mas-thtro 
 Bad 
 
 Met-lite 
 
 Residence, aitting 
 down, ite, 
 
 Mal-ha-na 
 As, in the river; or. 
 push off the boat 
 
 Man 
 
 Male 
 
 MotO'ttch 
 
 Deer 
 
 MuAttck 
 
 Elk 
 
 Catde 
 
 Afe-M*Jfca 
 
 Plural of yon 
 
ISO 
 
 Muck-rt'tnuck 
 Provisions, eat 
 
 Musket 
 Rifle, or gun • 
 
 Moon 
 Month 
 
 Mo-kah 
 
 Buy 
 
 Mim-a-looahed 
 
 Die, or dead 
 
 Mal'hu-ale 
 
 Back 
 
 Mfka 
 
 You 
 
 Ni-ka 
 
 I, or me 
 
 Nan-ach 
 Look, or see 
 
 lia-ha 
 Mother 
 
 New-ha 
 Let 
 
 Now-il-k 
 Yes, certainly 
 
 ye-ai-ka 
 We, us 
 
 Neim 
 Name 
 
 0-ea-kni 
 Caps 
 
 Oel-man 
 Old 
 
 DEnNmoN or indian worm. 
 
 O-ep-eati 
 Basket 
 O-rp-in-pin 
 Skunk 
 
 0-f-liU 
 Berries 
 
 0-e-pick 
 Both 
 
 0-elk 
 Snake 
 
 04o 
 
 Hungry 
 
 Oel'hin 
 Seal 
 
 0-koke 
 This, or that 
 
 Pi-yah 
 Fire 
 
 Poa-ton 
 Americans 
 
 Pee 
 And 
 Put 
 If 
 
 Puaa 
 Cat 
 
 Piah-haah 
 Polecat 
 
 Pot'Seeu 
 Blanket 
 
 Pot-latch 
 Give 
 Pole-ally 
 Powder 
 
 Po-et 
 
 O-pet-sa 
 Knife 
 
 0-pet-wa 
 
 Wonder, aMonUhment Boat 
 
 Oto Pa-pa 
 
 Brother Pap«r 
 
 Papo 
 Father 
 
 Pit 
 
 Red 
 
 Pe-ehi 
 
 Green 
 Pat-U 
 Full 
 
 Poo 
 
 Shoot 
 
 Pe-teek 
 
 The world 
 
 Pillon 
 Foolish 
 
 Pal-a-k-lo 
 
 Night 
 
 Pet-hockt 
 
 Thickety 
 
 Pia-aaj/-uke$ 
 
 French 
 
 Quaek-quack 
 
 Duck 
 
 Si-tooMh 
 
 Indians 
 
 Swat 
 Rain 
 
 High 
 
 Stick 
 Wood 
 
 Seck-um 
 Swim 
 Si-yaw 
 Far 
 
 Sap-a4il 
 Flour 
 
 Sthga 
 Sugar 
 
 I 
 
 ! 
 
 ■H 
 
'ORIM. 
 
 Papo 
 Father 
 
 Pil 
 Red 
 
 PfChi 
 
 Green 
 Pat.h 
 Full 
 
 Poo 
 
 Shoot 
 
 Pe-ttek 
 
 The world 
 
 Pilton 
 Foulith 
 
 Pal-a-hio 
 
 Night 
 
 Pei-hocki 
 
 Thickety 
 
 Pii-»aj/-uke$ 
 
 French 
 
 Quaek-quack 
 
 Duck 
 
 Si-wath 
 
 Indiana 
 
 Swat 
 Rain 
 
 Stth'tee 
 High 
 
 Stick 
 Wood 
 
 Seek-um 
 Swim 
 Si-yaw 
 Far 
 
 Sap'a4il 
 Flour 
 
 Sthga 
 Sugar 
 
 INBFINmON or INDIAN WORDS. 
 
 See-a-lukes 
 Pantaloons 
 
 Sap-a-pul 
 Hat 
 
 Sto-m 
 Rock 
 
 SU 
 Shirting 
 
 Sko-kutn 
 Strong, stout 
 
 Sec-fite 
 To miss 
 See-ah-ot-ti 
 Face, or eyes 
 Sam^non 
 Fish 
 Sto-gon 
 Sturgeon 
 
 Son-dro 
 Roan 
 
 SaU 
 Salt 
 
 Shu-e» 
 Shoes 
 
 Sun 
 
 Sun, or day 
 
 Silk-um 
 Half, or a part 
 
 Smo'tk 
 Smoke 
 
 Std-ltds 
 Mad, angry 
 
 Six 
 Friends 
 
 Sirk 
 
 Sick, or sore 
 
 Shta 
 Shirt 
 
 Shot 
 Shot 
 
 Sup-ner 
 
 Jump 
 
 7V/-rt-*ti»» 
 
 People 
 
 Til-the-ko-ep 
 
 Cut 
 
 7\im4um 
 
 The heart 
 
 Te-o-wit 
 
 Leg 
 
 Tum-pe-h 
 
 Back 
 
 Tatn-o-lack 
 
 Barrel 
 
 Master, or chief 
 
 Tes'um 
 
 Pretty 
 
 ToJo4>u$ 
 
 Wolf 
 
 Te-ko-ep 
 
 While 
 
 Te-mo-lo 
 To-morrow 
 
 Tu-ltuk 
 Milk 
 
 Ttp-io 
 Grass 
 7\im-tuk 
 Water-falls 
 
 ToJo 
 
 Win, or gain 
 
 Te-ma-ha$ 
 Poison 
 
 Ti-pee 
 
 An ornament 
 
 7'e-*oA 
 Want 
 
 nil 
 
 Heavy, or tired 
 
 Toe-ta 
 Doctor 
 
 Wah-wah 
 
 Talk, conversation 
 
 Wake 
 No, not 
 
 ffap-a-to 
 Potato 
 
 Win 
 Wind 
 
 Warn 
 Warm 
 Welch 
 More 
 
 Va-ka 
 
 Him, she, it 
 Yaw-wah 
 Yonder 
 
 Yok-sa 
 Hair 
 
 Va-ha-la 
 
 Name 
 
 Full-cut 
 
 Long 
 
 You-tiH 
 
 Glad, proud 
 
 
lit 
 
 OBTiNmoN o* nn>iA»i woti* 
 
 OaiNOOV MODI or OOHFUtlM* travMM. 
 
 IKt 
 
 Mak$t . . . • 
 Klont . • • • 
 
 Lak$t 
 
 K-win'mm • 
 Torhum- • • 
 Sifia-maxt - 
 Souhthxnt- ' 
 K-wi-et$t • • 
 Taih'ta-ham 
 Dih-pe-iht 
 Dih^ptnatt • • ' 
 J)U(hp4^ona • • 
 JHIo-p4akit . . 
 DUo-p-k^nnim 
 DUoihta-hum • 
 
 • « • • • 
 
 :i 
 
 .8 
 
 • 4 
 .5 
 
 • 
 
 • 7 
 8 
 
 .0 
 10 
 .11 
 • 13 
 .18 
 .M 
 .16 
 .10 
 
 17 
 18 
 If 
 20 
 .80 
 
 Dilo-p'tin-iMnaxt • • 
 Dilo^lh*ow-akin$ • • 
 DUo-p^fwUM . . . 
 TatMihhun makit • 
 Talh-la-hun klont • • 
 
 Tttih4a-hun lakit 40 
 
 T\aK-la4iun k-mn-ma « • 60 
 7Vi/A-/»Jkttn /«-Aum . . • .60 
 TatM»-^un lin-a-mart ' .TO 
 7*a/A4»Jktm tow-akint . . 80 
 7>i/A4M-Atin hwi-ti$t . • • 00 
 
 TYtA-c-fna-nux* 100 
 
 Tajt-o-mo-maxt 300 
 
 7%JHhmo-nuxt Uone • • 800 
 
 Tak-<hmo-nuxt lakat • • .400 
 
 f/hk-o-m^^uxt k-win-ninMOO 
 
 WORDS USED IN THE NEZ PBBCE LANOUAOB. 
 
 Talonoi 
 Ox 
 
 fyoKkt . 
 Clondi 
 
 Talohin 
 
 IToM 
 
 BnU 
 
 Rain 
 
 Xuthilat 
 
 HhctJuuha 
 
 Calf 
 
 Rains 
 
 SMkwn 
 
 Mttka 
 
 HorM 
 
 Boow 
 
 Fox 
 
 Hatia 
 
 Wind 
 
 Tah$put 
 
 rahu 
 
 Bmvtr 
 
 Hot 
 
 Xtlath 
 
 TamtU 
 
 Otwr 
 
 OoM 
 
 0a* 
 
 -watm 
 
I NinnKM. 
 
 n-a-maxt IT 
 
 )w-akini H 
 
 wi-et$t It 
 
 hun tnak$t . • . • 20 
 
 hun klone 80 
 
 hun Ittktt 40 
 
 hun k-toin-ma • • 60 
 hunta-huni' •••00 
 hun tin-a-mart ' >n 
 htm aouf-tkint • • 80 
 hun hwi-tttt . • »99 
 
 \«-nuxt 100 
 
 )e-fnaxt 300 
 
 nmuxt Uone • • 800 
 w-nuxt lakat • • • 400 
 Kvnux/ A-t0Jn-n{in6OO 
 
 ACE LANOUAOE. 
 
 Jpdiht . 
 
 Clondi 
 
 HakU 
 
 Rain 
 
 HheakoMka 
 
 Rains 
 
 Maka 
 
 Snow 
 
 HaHa 
 Wind 
 
 Faku 
 Hot 
 
 Tamltt 
 Gold 
 
1S4 
 
 osriNmoN or iniman womm» 
 
 Vahel 
 
 Shatn 
 
 Koko 
 
 Necii 
 
 Shirt 
 
 Raven 
 
 Nahio 
 
 I^ka 
 
 HoutiU 
 
 Silmofi 
 
 Pine 
 
 Oooat 
 
 Thihti 
 
 ha 
 
 Houtot 
 
 Up 
 
 Mother 
 
 Gael* 
 
 Jitim 
 
 Nitu 
 
 raym 
 
 Arm 
 
 Child 
 
 Swan 
 
 Matioyet 
 Eur 
 
 Mmneiat 
 
 Fatin 
 
 Children 
 
 Cran* 
 
 Piama 
 
 IRkai 
 
 Pap$ 
 
 Brothers 
 
 Pail 
 
 Fir. (trw) 
 
 Kdah 
 
 Siihnim 
 
 Kopkop 
 
 Sturgeon 
 
 Thorne 
 
 Cottonwood 
 
 fVayu 
 Ug 
 
 . SUulua 
 Friend 
 
 Alder 
 
 Kupkup 
 Baclc 
 
 Lantuama 
 
 7M« 
 
 Frifnda 
 
 Willows 
 
 TSmi'na 
 
 fValotakai 
 
 TYfiM 
 
 Heart 
 
 Pan 
 
 Cherry, 
 
 Sho 
 
 KuUh 
 
 SatduuxUtkm 
 
 Spoon 
 
 Riak 
 
 Com 
 
 Kahno 
 
 Shuahai 
 
 Pakt 
 
 Pmirie-hen 
 
 Grau 
 
 Wheat 
 
 Huhui 
 
 iSuyam 
 
 Lapotat 
 
 Shoulder 
 
 Sucker 
 
 Potatoes 
 
 Pitht 
 
 Haihu 
 
 f''P*_. 
 
 Father 
 
 Eel 
 
 A spriiig 
 
 fValpiOuah 
 Auger 
 
 Shakantai 
 
 Wawahjt 
 Spring (seaaon) 
 
 Katlua 
 
 Sholothah 
 
 Tiam 
 
 Duck 
 
 Fiah-hawk 
 
 Summer 
 
 ^ikt^ 
 
 WtuhuHuhM 
 
 Shahmm 
 
 Brother 
 
 Hen 
 
 Fall 
 
 JSIttnatan 
 
 Koun 
 
 Amm 
 
 Sitter* 
 
 Dove 
 
 Winter 
 
 Kinit 
 
 Aa 
 
 Ptbuh 
 
 8iBtar 
 
 *Crow 
 
 , ^iGooaebenf 
 
 .'A 
 4l 
 
B BF i w i' i i of i or inwAN yfovm. 
 
 IW 
 
 Koko 
 Kaven 
 
 J/outat 
 
 OooM 
 
 Houtat 
 
 G«M« 
 
 Vayo 
 8wtn 
 
 Fatin 
 Cnm 
 
 Fir, (Um) 
 
 JTopftop 
 Cottonwood 
 
 mih 
 
 Alder 
 
 7aA« 
 Willows 
 
 TYfiM 
 Cherry, 
 
 Satduw<Utku$ 
 Corn 
 
 Whmt 
 
 Lapatat 
 
 PoiakMS 
 
 Aipridg 
 
 FfowoAp 
 Spring (Muon) 
 
 Tiam 
 Summer 
 
 Shahnim 
 FaU 
 Afdm 
 Winter 
 P*bt»h 
 ^jGooMbenry 
 
 Kikaya 
 Servieeberry 
 
 Kahat 
 
 Milk 
 
 Aa/amnaiMdbi0 
 
 Peia 
 
 Hahuhtoahu 
 
 Gre«B 
 
 Inina 
 
 HonM 
 
 ParinifM 
 
 tnUain 
 
 For a hooM 
 
 Mtpa 
 
 To the home 
 
 Inilkinai 
 From the hoaee 
 
 Initrim 
 Houee only 
 
 OfllMMM 
 
 By e houee 
 
 Initph 
 To a hoaee 
 Ihniai 
 Not made 
 
 JTomatoal 
 Amechaaie 
 
 Hanithimai 
 Not a meehanie 
 
 TTamtainat 
 Preaeher 
 
 Teacher 
 
 Trader 
 
 Timanauat 
 A writer 
 Sapaliknawat 
 A labourer 
 
 Made 
 
 Have made 
 Hanilatathm 
 WiU make 
 
 HaMkika 
 
 Made going 
 
 HmtUna 
 
 Made coming 
 
 Ipna hani ai$hm 
 Make for hin 
 
 HanUoim 
 Go and make 
 Toihhama 
 Good man 
 
 TVuA /Jintna 
 Good heart 
 Taih thikam 
 Good honie 
 T%$kan $hUuun 
 Fatborae 
 
 Hatntii ihikai» 
 Fasthoree 
 Kaptktat MJutm 
 Strong n< 
 Simnith $hikam 
 Laiy horse 
 Kaptit thikam 
 Bad horse 
 Bmhid thikam 
 White horse 
 
 Hahat 
 Gray Bear 
 
 Vaka 
 Black bear 
 
 Ktmo 
 Old man 
 
 Tahta 
 Young man 
 
 Otwai 
 Old woman 
 
 Timai 
 Young womaa 
 
 Pithai 
 Father-in-law 
 
 PUhat 
 8on-in«law 
 
 Siwnko 
 Mother-in-law 
 
 ^waka 
 Daughur-in-law 
 
 Jnaya 
 Brother-in-law 
 
 Sikt 
 Sister-in-law 
 
 Pimh 
 Step.ratber 
 
 Kaka 
 Step-mother 
 
 Lemakdt 
 Deep 
 
 Pakat 
 Shallow 
 
 Mtd 
 Rapids 
 
 Amtluih 
 Breaker ' 
 
 ff^atat 
 Land 
 PUhwai 
 Stonee 
 
m 
 
 IM 
 
 IBPIIimnw am inmam %! 
 
 Mah$ham 
 
 mikakoknik* 
 
 MounUin 
 
 H« gallop* 
 
 £uh*in 
 
 mkHUUm 
 
 HiU 
 
 H«<ro«i 
 
 Tahpam 
 
 MmUmilUhm 
 
 PItin 
 
 H« p«eM 
 
 Huntiktm 
 
 HiwalakdJu 
 
 Boofh 
 
 H« waUm 
 
 TifUnU 
 Smooth 
 
 HUkauUkUu 
 Ha miM 
 
 mipwUp 
 
 TUitkkm BhOum 
 
 Round 
 
 FathoriM 
 
 PoM 
 
 Mdumvkt •MAmu 
 
 V«U«7 
 
 Borral iKMaa 
 
 Tuhmn 
 
 Hihaihm thikm 
 
 Rid|» 
 
 White aonw 
 
 /watam 
 
 TVmwi^M tAOtoM 
 
 Lake 
 
 Spotted horse 
 
 Tikim 
 
 TUmmHlp tkikmm 
 
 V»l\» 
 
 Spotted horeea 
 
 Hitkawi$h« 
 
 
 Heftlb 
 
 SmmI 
 
 Kohat tawiih 
 
 J&Aott 
 
 Long horn 
 
 Cattle 
 
 mskankokalk 
 
 HiwMm 
 
 Poor ox 
 
 The rtTer i* riabig 
 
 LUkmtMMM 
 
 Htfeuau* 
 
 0«ttti« OOWS 
 
 The river ia AiUiaf 
 
 
 
 HcridM 
 
 TbawamrroM 
 
 It ia fordabk 
 
 Hattu hiyanikm 
 Ifood ia floating 
 
 Mwmtmtm 
 
 The water mna 
 
 ^aA4MtM««Mt 
 
 The day ia dawniflg 
 
 Wmke kikmmm 
 It ia daylight now 
 
 HUinatrm 
 The «an ia 
 
 JVttk« kaUip$ 
 One day 
 
 HikuUmU$a 
 It ia rvaatag 
 Xaoim 
 
 Daylight 
 
 /la/fu hialika 
 The wood id lodged 
 
 JRa toooii&aAt 
 W« are eroaeiqg 
 
 KmaitapinmUu 
 Letoaaleep 
 
 Kaapakipt 
 Let na eat 
 
 Xaapahu 
 Letnago 
 
 Letiwgobadt 
 
e^gfg^ttigmi 
 
 fWaioik0tk 
 It ki fonlabU 
 
 Hat$u AiyaniAM 
 Ifood ia floaiinf 
 
 I/lwmlMtm 
 
 Tho walar niM 
 
 /AiAanwHiMMii 
 The day It dawaiog 
 
 IF«b hikmatm 
 It ia (kylight now 
 
 HiiiMtrm 
 Th« «tin it 
 
 JVcuk* heJap* 
 Out day 
 mktiimoU$« 
 It ia rvaatag 
 JTMtim 
 Dayliffht 
 //o/fu hialika 
 The wood U lodfid 
 
 Mitt wiuiiUthi 
 W« ara eroaaiaf 
 
 Km apapinmUu 
 Latnaaleap 
 
 Kdofakipt 
 Lainaaat 
 
 Kaapdhu 
 Ii«t«ago 
 JhapvtUtn 
 Latnagobadt 
 
 MM i m wi o i i wtmuM 
 
 Nu Pms MOBB Of ooarvTiMo Mtmaiaa. 
 
 jVii*a 
 
 Z^ 
 
 JliUti 
 
 PUapt 
 
 /»•*•/ 
 
 mUiki 
 
 mmofi 
 
 mmatmt 
 
 Kiiu 
 
 Puiifi^ 
 
 PuHmpt mmk ntk» • 
 Puiimpt w€A l*pU • 
 Putimft uhA mU<a • 
 P%aimft wah pUtqtt • 
 J*uHmp*mAp€ihia. 
 Puiimpt vmk wUmh$ 
 
 .1 
 
 • • 
 
 .4 
 .8 
 
 • • 
 
 • T 
 .» 
 .« 
 10 
 11 
 IS 
 
 .IS 
 .14 
 .IS 
 .IS 
 .17 
 
 AiKm^ ttwA ttimatat 
 PvUimpt wok kui$ 
 
 UptU 
 
 Xtfrtil «MiA ndka 
 
 MUaptU 
 
 PihptU 
 
 PmktiptU 
 
 miaktaptU 
 
 mnaptii 
 
 ffimittg>Ht 
 
 Mm»mpHt 
 
 p¥t«ptU 
 
 LtfoakuM 
 
 Miotkm 
 
 PeUfot^u 
 
 PukMkut' 
 
Ili 
 
 TASLfi or StSTAiiCgS 
 
 TABtM or WI»TANCE« rmOM IJIDEFrNDKNCK. MIMOUMi ANB tT 
 
 jonKPii, TO ottEuoN crrr, in omujox tsrwtoby. 
 
 F«OM Inditpendenca to lUndnivoui 40 
 
 •• RenJeivou* to Elm Oro»« •* 
 
 - Klin drove to Wtlkannha '0 
 
 " Walkarushs to cro««in|r of Kiimm rlMf •• 
 
 " Kaniaa to crixiaing of "Turkey creek • • '4 
 
 " Turkey rretik t«i Lmle Vermilion M 
 
 •* liitUe VermiUoo to brmnrh of eamo 18 
 
 •« To Big Vermilion, wiih Inlerinediato campe 99 
 
 ** Vermilidn to Lee't tfwioh • 
 
 " I^o'» hraiirh to BIf Blue ; • 
 
 «• Dig Blue to ilie jiinciion with St. Joetph'e inH ... 10 
 The diiUnca from Ht. Joiwph. Miwonri, to the Inde- 
 pamlenoe trail, atrikins it ten mile* weet .1 Blue river, U 
 about one hundred mifta. Good carapa < an ho had from 
 eight to fifteen miles apart 
 
 From ftirka of road ae abote, to Big Hmdjr, atriklng U 
 near iu junction with the U«jpub!icaB Fork of 
 
 Blue river, with interme<liale caiiipe 48 
 
 •• Sandy to Kepublican fork of Blue river 18 
 
 » up Bepublioan fork, with good campa M 
 
 » Republican fork to Big Platte • 80 
 
 " up Big PUtlfl to the croneing of South fork 180 
 
 Carope can be had at euitablo diauncea, with wood for 
 fuel upon the ialanda. 
 From lower to upper croeaingt of 8ou*h fork ....... 40 
 
 There u a road on each aide of the river, and but lulle 
 choice in them. 
 
 From South to Nor'h fork, at A«h Hollow W 
 
 " Aah Hollow to opposite Solitary Tower, on LitU« 
 
 creek <« 
 
 •• LItUe creek to oppoeite Chimney rock ....... 16 
 
 M Chimney Rock to where the road leaves the River • 1ft 
 
 " thence to Scott's Bluffs (Good Spring) 10 
 
 " Scott's Bluffs to llurse creek 18 
 
 •• Horse creek to Fort Lar»mie 84 
 
 " I«n<nie to Dry Brmnch and Big Spring 18 
 
 •• to Bitter Cottonwood 10 
 
ICK, MIMMOURIi AND Vr 
 
 ION ntmuTOHY. 
 
 TSo 
 
 II 
 
 to 
 
 a river M 
 
 nk U 
 
 t4 
 
 te 18 
 
 Ibto camps 99 
 
 8 
 
 . « 
 
 JoMph't trail ... 10 
 lonri, lo tha Indo- 
 it of Blue river, ia 
 • can b« had from 
 
 S«ndv. striking it 
 H|iub!ican Fork of 
 
 [■ampa 48 
 
 le river 18 
 
 amps W 
 
 30 
 
 South fork 180 
 
 ces, with wood for 
 
 h fork 46 
 
 river, and but liltl* 
 
 illow 80 
 
 f Tower, on LitUa 
 
 4a 
 
 y rock 10 
 
 ui leaves the River * 1ft 
 Ipring) 10 
 
 . . , 84 
 
 S Spri»« IJ 
 
 T4nJt or DiaTANom IM 
 
 To Willow Branch J 
 
 " llorim Hhoa Creek ,..••».•'•' ' ' I 
 
 " Kiver ' '' • • • • 
 
 Thence Ui where the RomI leevea the Hi»er ■ 
 
 To Big Timber ereelt . • • ''' ^ 
 
 " MarbU creek , . . • 
 
 " MikeVhead cteek '* 
 
 " ihn Itiver. noaaing sever* alreems • • »" 
 
 ♦• Deer creek !.*.*',*„,''*' ' en 
 
 Thence to croeaiiw of North fork of Platte »» 
 
 From croaaing of Platte to Mpring »" 
 
 Thence to Mineral Hpringa (bad camp) • 
 
 .. Willow Hprinjf (g.wd can.p) • • • 
 
 " lndcp.Mvl«in.e Kock on 8weot Water •• 
 
 Up Sweet Water to South Paaa (good caropa) • l«« 
 
 Over the dividing ridge to Pacillc Spring, the waters of 
 
 which run into Green river •• 
 
 IUri, Hail OiiKaoM I 
 
 From Spring lo UlUo Sandy : * ,* * T ' ' ' * *, ' '^ 
 
 Here Uie road forks, the smithern trail going bv way or 
 Brldmr'e Old Fort, and tlienr<e lo Ucar rivi-r. The north- 
 ern Cwhich U two and a half daya lea. driving) alnkes 
 Green river about forty miles above Uie southern trail S I 
 will give the dtstanc/i on b<4h routes. _. _ , « 
 
 The iiortli«rn route, from Lillle Sawly to Big 8«idy • • • » 
 
 From Big H«n<ly to Green river .' ' ' ' 
 
 (No water and but little graaa Utween.) 
 
 " thence to Bear river, (with good cimpe.) 0* 
 
 On the southern route : — 
 
 Prom Lille Sandy lo Big Sand/ »J 
 
 Down Big Samly lo Green nver ♦ •** 
 
 Crose Green river and dovn ■ 
 
 From Green river lo Black's fork - * * •« 
 
 Up Black's fork to Bridger'sOid Fort- . • • »« 
 
 From Old Fort to laide Muddy (poor camp) ■ 
 
 " thence to Big Muddy (poor camp) ....••.-•• lo 
 Up Big Muddy to the dividing ridge (good cwnp neer 
 
 head of creek) ! * "* 
 
 Over dividing ridge to spring ' ' *" 
 
 Prom spring to camp on Pear river » 
 
 " thence to where the norlheru trail comee m. • • • »w 
 
■M 
 
 1^ TABUc or wnMoa. 
 
 To Smith'K fork ihree miltf, to Narrow* four milee, tnd 
 
 thence to croMing of Bemr river three ntlM ... 10 
 
 Here Uia roH«l forke } th* neareet it to follow up lh« 
 croek two milet, croee and then go over the ridge fi»e 
 atilee to foot of Big Hill, where the roede again unite • 7 
 
 The other road croeeea the ri»er, foUowa up Uie bottom 
 about ten milee, re-eroreee and ia then abottt eeyen milea 
 
 tojunotion. .... « 
 
 From foot of Big Hill, to top of ndge u about 8 
 
 •• thence to Big Timber on Bear river * 
 
 Here ia a company of American tradera and trapper* 
 
 From Big Timber to Soda Springe „' * '.' " 
 
 «• Snrinff to Soda Pool aevea milea, to Spring Branch 
 
 thrSe »J 
 
 «* Spring to Running Branch • 
 
 " thenoe to fool of hill ' 
 
 •• foot of hUl over dividio* ridge and down to eamp • 18 
 
 M thence toLewia'e river Dottora atSprioge 18 
 
 and to Fort Hall ' * * * : 5 
 
 «• Fort Hall to the oroaaing of Portnelh 8 
 
 •• Portneth to American faUa |' 
 
 " American falU to Uvey creek . • • • • ; • • • • • • !» 
 
 •« thenoe to Casau crwd^ (here the Cabfomia trail 
 
 tame off) • 
 
 •• Caaaia to Big Marah [» 
 
 •« Marah to River '.,'***.* 
 
 « Bivor to Gooae creek four milea, aeven mile* to ri> 
 
 ver, and twelve milea to Dry Bianeh, (water in 
 
 P«^) «J 
 
 T« Roeky Creek '. .• • • • * * " 
 
 •* eroeaing of Rocky creek, flight milee, down to where 
 
 the road leavea the Uaff of sreek, aeven 15 
 
 « Salmon FaUt creek «J 
 
 From thence to Salmon fell* • 
 
 «• Fall* to firat eroeaing of Lewi* river •• 
 
 M ere**inf to Boi* river i* about. • • ' tO 
 
 Camp* can He had from aix to Meen mile* 
 
 Down Boi* river to Fort Boia (good eampa) 48 
 
 Croa* Lewi* river and thence to Malheur 18 
 
 « Malheur to Birch creek, about SO 
 
 M Biroh creek to river three milea, and theiir* &v« 
 
 milea to Burnt rivw »..,.... S 
 
 Up Burnt river about (good oamp*) «8 
 
ira four miles, and 
 r thra* milM ... 10 
 to follow up the 
 rer the ridge five 
 oada again unite • T 
 >wa up tlie bollom 
 about aeTen milea 
 
 about 8 
 
 rer * 
 
 t and trappora 
 
 80 
 
 I, to Spring Branch 
 
 *.*.*.'.*.*.'.'.'.! 9 
 
 8 
 
 ddowntoeamp • 12 
 
 Spriofs 18 
 
 . 6 
 
 tneth 6 
 
 , 18 
 
 , 16 
 
 he California trail 
 
 8 
 
 IB 
 
 11 
 
 , aeven nilM to ri* 
 Braneh, (water in 
 
 28 
 
 8 
 
 ee, down to where 
 
 lek, ae»en 15 
 
 SO 
 
 8 
 
 iver •••••••• M 
 
 . . , to 
 
 nilee 
 
 unpe) 46 
 
 ear 18 
 
 SO 
 
 OB, and thenrc At* 
 
 8 
 
 S6 
 
 TABLR OF DIflTANOCS. 101 
 
 miji. 
 
 From where the road leatea Burnt river, to the lone pine 
 atump in the bottom of Powder nver, (the laet 
 
 thirteen milea no wator) •" 
 
 To the crosaing of Powder river J" 
 
 To Grand Round *, 
 
 AcroM the aouthem end of Grand Round ^ 
 
 Up Big Hill and on to Grand Round river » 
 
 Over the Blue Mountaina to Lee'a encampment |w 
 
 To UmatiUo river ' *° 
 
 Down UmatiUo river Zl 
 
 " Columbia rivt r to John Day'a nvur »» 
 
 From thence to Falla river ** 
 
 And thence to the Dallea of the Columbia • »«» 
 
 From the DaUea to Oregon city, by way of wago.. road 
 
 aouth of Mount Hood about j'u ' 
 
 Upon reaching the Columbia, emigrant* ahould have 
 peraona in advance to select auiuble pUcee for camp 
 ground : aa the country along the river is extremely bar- 
 ren, and the grazing limited to small patches. 
 
 U 
 
,■' n iirifci 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 LETTEB OF THE REV. H. H. SPALDING TO 
 JOEL PALMER. 
 
 ( Rtfintd to on pag* IM.) 
 
 NBZ PBROB MI88IOI*, CLBAR WATER RIVER. 
 
 Ottgon TerrUory, April 7, 1848. 
 To Jon Palm* E«q. of Inbiana. 
 
 MvD.A.8»:-A«r.wbly to you •:eq««.t I »»-; «h*«> 
 fuUy fiw rou my »iew. concerning the Oregon territory, ito 
 «U,Drit.'«io.t de.ir.We climate, fertility of .ofl. ruer. end 
 moimtuM, •«■ Md tay«. •»*> '«• PW^^^'X *» «»• "^ *• °'°'* 
 tzteniif e markeU opening upon the world. ^^ 
 
 The Oregon territory ie uweUy divided into three great dlTi- 
 •looe. the lower, middle, end upper regioM. The upper 
 toehidee the Rocky MounUdn.. with the he«l water, of moet 
 of the rif er. ranning wert end eat, north wd wuth, nnd^- 
 tend. we.tto the Bhie wd Spoktn range, of mountam.. The 
 lower iocUide. the beU of country bounded on the weat by the 
 P«rific ««i on the eart by the Ne«i«ally. Ca«»de. and C J.. 
 fbrnia Mountrin.. The middle region lie. between the two. 
 •lul etobrwse. RrobaWy far the greate.t extent of counuy, and 
 is in MNB* reroecte the mort deeirabl" for .etUer.. ' 
 
 The Bomber of rainy day^ during the winter m.on, in the 
 lower eottntry. U thought to be .boat eighty-fiv. one-hon- 
 drwlib. I while the number of rainy day. dtmng the nm« Ma- 
 
 MM 
 
188 APPRNOIX. 
 
 dtedtht. There ii but little more enow during the winter 
 •euon in the middle then in the lower region of the Columbia 
 river, or upon the plaini. Of courie the depth of enow upon 
 the raountaini, dependt upon their height. 
 
 The lower country ii eubject !o innndatlone. to a greater 
 or le.. extent, from the Columbia river, which gathering into 
 atanding poola, with the great amount of regelable decay con- 
 «Kluent upon low prairie countriea, produce, to -o"" «to«» 
 unhealthy fog. during the .ummer .oa.on. fhi., however. U 
 „e.Uy moderated by the .ea breexe. from the Pacific. The 
 middle region i. entirely free from the«. evil., and ha. proba- 
 bly one of the mo.t pacific, healthy, and every way moat 
 deeirable climale. in the world. Thi., with it. «»•«"*•?"»■ 
 rie., covered with a .uperior quality of gra.. tuft, or bunch 
 gn-., which -prlnga frch twice a year, and -P^^^J "f 
 .treaked everywhere with apring. and .tream. of *• P'"*-*' 
 .wtlt waSTrender. it admin^ly ^.pud *» *« ^«^J 
 ayatam. The lower coimtxy wW ever have greaUy *••«»««»• 
 tie in it. proximity to market, it. extewive .ea c<»rt. and 
 bom the fact that it contain, one of the largeet and be.t bar- 
 bor. in the world, viz. Pugef. wwnd. running far mland, the 
 mouth of which i. protected by Vancouver*. Ulwid. eaay of 
 acces. at all aeason. and under all wind.. 
 
 But to go into detail. Myaelf and wife were appointed 
 mi..ionarie. by the American Board of Commiaeioner. for Fo^ 
 .iga Mi..ion.. and dctined to thi. field, and with oar worthy 
 JSociate.. Dr. Whitman, and lady, arrived m thu country sa 
 the faU of 1838. The Doctor .ettled among the C.y«e.. 
 Dear fort Wallawalla. and my-elf at thi. place, where we have 
 ever aince continued to dw.ll. Our duUe. have caBed «. to 
 travel more or ie« every year to vi.it the *•««»»*" J^^ 
 tribe., a. al«, to pack our r.ppV«o. I have 7^^* ^^^ J 
 die region in wventeen ^.n^-^ront route., of f~» J« to fOO 
 mile. Over m«i7 of the mte. I have pamd P^b-Wyi" 
 tfvery toonth in th« y^^'^ hav. ««*«^^*;P2T»hu ^ 
 
htromx. 
 
 nev 
 
 during the winter 
 >n of the Columbia 
 gpth of ■now upon 
 
 itioni, to ft gretter 
 lich gathering into 
 igetable decay eon- 
 ;ei to lome oxtont 
 Thia, however, la 
 the Pacific. The 
 ila, and haa proba- 
 1 every way moat 
 \i ita extenaive prai- 
 ;raaa tuft, or bunch 
 r, and apotted and 
 nma of the pureaW 
 pted to the herding 
 re greatly the adTan* 
 laive aeft eoaat, and 
 ugeat and beathar* 
 nning far inland, the 
 rer'a ialand, eaay of 
 
 irife were appointed 
 mmiaaionera for For- 
 md with oar worthy 
 )d in thia ooantry in 
 among the Cayviea, 
 ilace, where we hare 
 ea hftTe called «a to 
 le distant banda and 
 re traveraed this inid> 
 , of from eo to 800 
 B pasaed probably in 
 10 ptograae of regft*- 
 elbetiorthtooliiaiw 
 
 ««on the animal conalhution. the rapidity w.th walch ex- 
 hJ^aUd poor animal, regain thair fieah and actinty. whan 
 LrneJ up^^ th. pUin. ; ft«d ha., kept Uble. under aom. of 
 Zrheada. u Jmo a meteorological table for .emal yoara. 
 Xi^tu" obaerve that my .lew. of the couaUy have been 
 materially changed br a mo. ^ accurate acquamtanc. w.lh lU 
 ^le natuJe. 1 oZ thought the .Uey. only "-P*^""^ »>;'>; 
 Itatlon; conaidering the plain, too dry for culuvat.on. But I 
 am noi prepared to a.y thi. « not the caae. The plama .uf- 
 f« far leaa from drought than the valley., on account of th. 
 X"orof heat fro^ the aurrounding hill. Th. country, 
 however, i. nowhere peculiarly .ubject to drought, aa v^m 
 once thought. My place ia one of the deepe.t valley., and con- 
 ::qlnay *• r,;rexpo.ed to th. reflecUon from *« b|gh 
 bluff, around, which ri-e from two to three t^ou-nd fe.t . b« 
 my farm, though prepared for irrigation, haa remained without 
 
 :Chel..tfoury-.. I ««<» ^»'« «r '^rXnTel 
 moUt by cultivation. Three yeara ago I raui«i .« hundr^ 
 Lhel. of .helled corn from .ix aerw. and good crop, of 
 wheat on the .am. pi«,e the two following yea«, without .m- 
 «Uon. Eight year, ago I rai.«l 1600 b«.h.la of poUto.. from 
 fne L Td ; halff me-uring aom. of the bag. m which 
 they were bronght to the cellar., and .o judging of the whole 
 amount I gave every eleventh bag for digging •»* ^^JS 
 «„d kept a atrict account of what every peraon brought, ao that 
 I wu abl. to make a pretty accurate estimate of the wholo 
 
 amount My potatoea and com are alway. planted in drill.. 
 Every kind of grain or vegetable which I have tn«l or awn 
 
 t^ in thi. npp.r country, grow. w.U. .W*-"* V>'\ i;) 
 
 1h. fdl, and h.rv..ted in Jun. at thia place ; at Dr. WhU. 
 
 man'a in July, being a more open country. Com i. pl.nt«» 
 
 ia April and ripwn in July ; p«. th. »m.. 
 
 EXTENT OP COUNTBY. 
 Tl« «mtli«n botindtfy of Ornon tmitory to th. «d d^ 
 im of north laUtad.. Th. northern boondary m not y«l i^^ 
 
\m 
 
 APPPBNMX 
 
 ti.di» bolh EngUnd tnd the United SUUi clwra north of th« 
 Co.«mb«Ti,er to latitude 49'. But thi. v«t fertd. region, 
 well tinib«red upon the mouoUin. and river eourcei. and well 
 watered, beside, having the fine harbor above named, Paget, 
 •ound. mu.t ever remain the moat important P«'^«« » ^J'* 
 gon. eepecially on account of thi. harbor, which »'"» «»««^^ 
 Ltrol theae aeM. and conaequenlly the country. Should the 
 Briiiah flag finally cxclu.ively wave over iU placid watery i^ 
 wUl be 10 the reat of Oregon m Quebec i. to Canada, or G;b. 
 r Jlar to tl.e Mediterranean. Vancouver'. laland i. doubUeM 
 another rea.on why Great Britain wUhe. to make the Colum- 
 bia river h.r northern boundary. The line of <» P""' » 
 lilUe north of the wuthem half of the ialand. The whole 
 i,land contain. . territory conaiderably larger than EngUnd and 
 Scotland, produ m every kind of grain and vegeUbl. well, and 
 ha. a climate very .imilar to our Middle and Southern .tat... 
 Whatever nation pn.«...e. thi. i.land. or the aoulh porUon of 
 m wiUi if neighboring harbor. Puget'. wund, poMe.«» nearly 
 til of a national conaideration which peruin. to Oregon, ana 
 will co„Mq«e«.ly control it. D-H if thi. i^Und. or th» po^ 
 tion of it. with thi. harbor. «U1 .heir ever controhng nHuence 
 to the undivided intereat. of Oregon, thi. young, colony, bu 
 yeeterday begun, and who., country «>d .ri.«anc. were but 
 yeaterday diaputed. will at no diaunt day. under th.-ofU.mng. 
 Uf8./.rM4 influence of civilixalion and our holy religion, take 
 it. pi.ce among the wealthiest, happi-t, and be.t naUon. of 
 
 '*' Vh"tuntry of Oregon, .hoold it extend to 49« north lati- 
 tude,, i. probably capable of au«taining a. r"t • W^^J^ 
 .. two-third. of the territory of the Slate,, «.d with f«r le» 
 
 bard labor. ________-l-— -1 
 
 ". Bine. tbUteU-rwwi written. the forty^lnth pualM "^ ~»*';f*J* 
 
 h„ b«.-ubiuh«i tyt^ty -th. bo«nd«y ^^^2^*;;:^ 
 
 „«,U of 0«at Britain «.d the Unit.1 8ut..~^oep»thatpc«UeorfVto. 
 ^. yaiid«««h rf49»,wbkh cootton..and.t the j«irfW»rf«^ 
 
.^ 
 
 Uit oUira north of ih« 
 ia vut fertile region, 
 ver eourcee. tnd well 
 ibove nametl, Puget'e 
 rtant portion of Ore- 
 , which will nkturallx 
 country. Should the 
 er iU pUcid watera, it 
 ie to Canada, or Gfb- 
 ■'a laland ia doubllree 
 ■ to make the Colum- 
 line of 49° paaaea a 
 island. The whole 
 trger than England and 
 ind vegetable well, and 
 e and Southern atatea. 
 r the aoulh portion of 
 louud, poaaeaaea nearly 
 erUina to Oregon, and 
 ^ia i»Und, or thia por- 
 rer controling influence 
 thia young, colony, but 
 nd esietence were but 
 ay, under the Mftening, 
 our holy religion, take 
 It, and beat nationa of 
 
 xtend to 40° north iaU- 
 I aa great a population 
 luteal and with far leaa 
 
 ithpanOMof BotitblitaiU 
 ry Una Iwtwan lb* gotam- 
 -«ioapt that poitioo of Van. 
 imWrttaajiuiidietioBarUna 
 
 kffWWL ipi 
 
 CLIMATE. 
 
 Thia ia decidedly the inviiinn characterietir of tlie country, 
 and ia certainly a great inducement for all pemone of delicate 
 health. I speak of tlie middle region. Free from marahea or 
 standing water and vegetable decay, the air ia remarkably pur« 
 and aerena ; aummera rather warm, eapecially in the vulleya ; 
 the mercury rangea, foe aome time during the hot aeaaon, ffom 
 100 to 100 degreea above aero. NighU cool, but no fog or 
 dew, except in a few placea. Twice aince 1 have been in iha 
 counuy froat has injured vines, leaves, Ac, first of May, but 
 never in the fall till late ; often my melon vinea, iic, are green 
 till the first of December. Four timee since 1 have been her* 
 the mercury has fallen below aero 5 once lo 26 degrees. But 
 usually it rangea above 20 in the morning, and above 60 
 through the day. During aix of the ton winters I have paaaed 
 in the country, tlic rivers have not been froaen. The Co- 
 lumbia river haa been froaen nearly to ito mouth, twice ainca 
 I have been in the country. The anow aomelimea falla a fool 
 deep— I ahould judge about once in five yeara. About half of 
 my wintera here there haa been no anow in the valleya, and 
 hut Hide on the plaina, except to whiten the earth for a abort 
 tima. It diaappeara in a few houra, especially on tlie aouth 
 face of the blufle and hilla. Laat year 1 made a collection of 
 flowera and plant«„ which I purpoaa to aend to Waahlngton. 
 I gathered two flowera in January, on the 22d and 29lh,« and 
 during the month of February aome 40 ahowed iheroaelvea, 
 and bj the firet of March the graaa on the aoulh facea of lh« 
 blufla waa 14 inchea high. Thia year the aeaaon waa about 
 ihrM weeka later, judging by Uie appearance of flowera. I 
 know of no diaeaae that can be aaid to bo peculiar to the coun- 
 try. The country ia peculiarly free from audden ehangea of 
 weather, or violent atorma. Peraona who have wintered here 
 from the aouth, teU me the wint era are aa mild aa the wintere 
 
 ssen in Om Isil wintMT, and winter bsfora, frara tb* 
 
 M. W. 
 
 • Ftowars hste been 
 SOth tt Jannaiy. 
 15 
 
AtrtMaoL 
 
 in ihe norlh«rn parU o« Noilh uw\ iJouih Carolina, and witl. 
 leaa audtlen ctiangea. 
 
 ADVANTACJEa FOR THE HERDING SYflTEM. 
 The country ii. om extenaivr prairie, except the mounlaina. 
 whirh ar« covered with leveral apeciea of pine, cedar, ami fir. 
 The prairi^i «e n.lling. and wUh the t^eepilon nf » narnm 
 belt of eand and .edge upon the Columbia, and porliona of the 
 Snake river, are ev.ry where covered with the bur.cl» gra.. 
 which, from obaervalion, I judge to be n richer, heartier foci 
 for animal, than com. oaU. and the beat paature. of U.e Bute.. 
 It i. a fine, aoUd atalk. growing ',wo feet high, with fine leave., 
 hold, iu freahnea. through the wi-v-r; I mean the old .talk, 
 which mingled with the young growth, that uiually .pnng. 
 freeh in the fall, form, a food for animal, through the winter, 
 preferable to the beat hay. IIor.e. and oien perform labor at 
 •11 aeaMn. upon thi. gra.. .imply, without the aid of grain » 
 which I now think di.po«). the animal ry.tem to vanou. dl.- 
 
 When I pack, I u.ually travel from thitsj-^re to forty mile. 
 • day, each hor.e carrying two hundred ,*ound»-re.t an hour 
 «t noon, without taking down the pack. ; camp while the .un 
 ia yet two hour, high ; hobble the horw. end drive them up 
 in the rooming at .unriM. I find that hor.>« xriU endure .uoh 
 labor for twenty-fif e or thirty day., reeling oi" coorw on the 
 Sabbath, upon thi. gra.., without injuring tacm. Their mnd 
 l» evidendy better than that of home, fed on gr*ui and hay. 
 I bai£ rode from Dr. Whitman*, .tatlon to thi.. 128 miles. In 
 nineteen hour^ .tarUng at 9 o'clock In the night, and driving. 
 .t)are horw for change ; but. thi. wa. no advantage, for I find 
 it i. more fatiguing U ^ horw to be drove than to be rode. 
 Yon doubtless recollect the man who overtook u. on the liead 
 of Alcpausawi, Thursday morning. He had left the Dalies oi 
 Long Narrow, on the Columbia on Tuesday morning, alept a 
 •hort ume Tuewlay night below the UmatiUo, pawed by Dr. 
 Whitman', station, and .lept W«dne.day night on the Tuka^ 
 
 L. 
 
iMM 
 
 Afvwmnt. 
 
 ni 
 
 iilh Carolina, and with 
 
 IDING SYflTEM. 
 
 except Ihe mouiiuini, 
 of pine, c«dar, anil flr. 
 ^^eeptlon !>f • narrow 
 bia, and portiona of the 
 with th« bunch graaa, 
 a richer, heariier fo(4 
 t pMturea of tlie Btatea. 
 (t high, with fine leavea, 
 ; I mean the old atalk, 
 Ih, that uaually epringa 
 ala through the winter, 
 d oien perform labor at 
 ithout the aid of grain i 
 il .-^yitem to varioue dia- 
 
 thir'.y-fl»e to forty milea 
 id fiounda— reat an hour 
 kb ; camp while the aun 
 raea end drive them up 
 ; hora>i8 xvill endure auch 
 -eating ol' courae on the 
 ring tacm. Their wind 
 >a fed on gr«i<i and hay. 
 on to thia, 12B miles, in 
 n the night, and driving a 
 I no advantage. Tor I ftnd 
 e drove than to be rode. 
 1 overtook u« on the head 
 He had leA the Dalles oi 
 Pucaday morning, alept a 
 Umatillo, paMed by Dr. 
 aday night on the Tiik» 
 
 nan, adbtanoe from the Pallaa of two hun.lred and forty miles \ 
 and the day Iw paaaeU ua he traveled fifly-Jive milea more. 
 Up rode one horae and drove anotlier for change. You will 
 probably even recollect ihoae horawi, a« they left "• upon the 
 round f nllop. A roan went from thia place, aurling late, to 
 WJUwalla. and returned on the third day, aun two houre 
 high, making the journey in about two daya and a half. The 
 whole diatance traveled waa two hundred and fifty milea, and 
 but one horae waa ueed. None of iheae horaea were injured. 
 Cattle, ahaep, horaea. and hoga feed out tlirongh the winter, 
 and oontinue fat. We very often kill our beef in March, and 
 alwaya have tlie very beet of meat. Often an ox from tiie 
 plaina, killed in March, yieUU over one hundred and fifty 
 pounda of tallow. You have aeen two apecimena, one killed at 
 Dr. Whitman's, and one at tliia place. Sheep need the care of 
 ft ahephcrd through the winter, to protect the lambe from tite 
 prairie woWee. A band of maree ahould have a good atud that 
 will herd them and protect the colu from the Urge wolvea. 
 Some thirty diHereni k iiula of roota grow abundantly upon the 
 plains and Muffs, which, with the graaa, furnish th^ beat of 
 food for hogs, and Uiey are alwaya good pork. Vhe aouth 
 face of the extemive bluffa and hills arc Iwaya free from 
 anow, and, cut up into ten thonaand little avines, form the 
 moat desirable reUeai imagbable tor sheep .i ring Uie winter. 
 Here they have the beet of freah graas, and the young lambs, 
 coming regularly twice a year, are protected from the winds 
 ftx \ wiliTened by the warm sun. We have a Hook of aheep 
 belonging to the MUsion, receivetl from the islands eight years 
 •fo ; there are now about one hundred and fifiy. Not one 
 has yet died from diseaae, a thing of such frequent occurrence 
 in the Slates. U must certainly become a great wool growing 
 
 country. 
 
 1 cannot but contrast the time, labor, and expense requisite 
 tn look after herds in this country, with that required in the 
 States, especially in the Northern and Middle States, where 
 twoHhirds of every man's time, labor, and money is expended 
 
m 
 
 Arrwiwx 
 
 on hii .nlinnl.. in pwparinf ind fencing p.ilure r^nit tiHl 
 matdow*. bulMinK barn.. .Ltd.. itoWti. .nd |r«n.rio. euUin| 
 ,nd ...curing hay .nd gflns. .ml f«.ling .nd lo<.king to .m- 
 
 ,n.l. throu^f. '^in'-r- '" »^" «"'"""y •» '^'' " •"P«"^"''«; ^y 
 N.tura'. own bouniiful hand. In ihi. country • .ingU .htpherd 
 with hi. hor.e .nd d..g. en prolecl .m» look .fter fl*. «hou..nd 
 •hoep.« A in.ii Willi hhi l.or.e and perh.ii* • dog can etady 
 •ttend to two tho...and hwd of callla nnd hor.... without 
 ■pending . dollar for b.rn.. grain, or h.y. Con.ider the traat 
 ainounl i4 labor and f jtp*n.a .uch a number of animal, would 
 lequire In <hi. Stale.: Were I to aeleci for my frirnda ■ loca- 
 tion for i^hwlAy happy Ufa. and .peody wealOi, U would be 
 
 till, country. , . , w 
 
 Timber i« the great deaideratum. But ihe country of which 
 1 am pariicularly .peaking, extending ewy way perhape four 
 hundred milee. la everywhere aurrounded by low mountama, 
 which are ihtrkly timbered, b^sidee two or three ammll rldgea 
 puling ihroMgh it ; aUo the river. Columbia. Snake, 8pokan, 
 Paluae. Clear Walor.Vankiman.Okanakan. Salmon. Wtiloa,Tu. 
 kanan. Wtllawalla. Umatillo, John Day'a nnd river De Shulea j 
 and down moat of theae timber or lumber can be rafled in any 
 quantltica. 80 that but a very amall portion of the country 
 will be over ten or fifteen milaa from timber ; moat of it in the 
 immediate vicinity of timber. The numeroui •mall atreama 
 which occur every five or n\x milea, affurdlng moat dealraWe 
 locationa for aettlementa, contain aome cotton wo«)d, tlder and 
 thorn. But timber ia eoon grown from aprouta. The atreama 
 everywhere run over a atony bottom, while the aoll ia eutirely 
 IVee from atone. Slreama are rapid, affording the boat of mill 
 privileges. 
 
 MARKET. SEAS AND BAYS. 
 The weatern .horee of Oregon nt e waehed by the plaeid 
 
 TXTpMwnl it will iwiulr. on. man to a ihoMand in Iba wfailK to pun 
 iMlbomvolvwk B« euycknii*. I. a ««• poiMn wUh which to dMttoy 
 
 ftf« W. 
 
 
/fPHWUHt. 
 
 m 
 
 Willi n» iToandi tnd 
 id gmniriM. culling 
 and Uxiking to ani< 
 hit it aupercedad by 
 \ij • ■ingla ihtphanl 
 ik after flva ihouiand 
 «p« m dng ran tun\y 
 Slid horaat, without 
 Coniider the Toat 
 bet of animala would 
 ur my frienda ■ loca- 
 wealth, it would be 
 
 the country of whloh 
 ry way perhapa four 
 1 by low mountaina, 
 or (hrea amall ridgea 
 nbia, Snake, Spokan, 
 1, Salmon, Wailua,Tu- 
 nnd river De Shutea { 
 r can ba raflad in any 
 ortion of the country 
 ber ; moat of it in th« 
 naroui amall atreama 
 irding moat deairabia 
 Dtton wood, alder and 
 iprouta. Tha atreama 
 lila tha aoil ia eutiraly 
 mliqg tha boat of aiiil 
 
 D BAYS. 
 
 waahad by tha placid 
 
 MMid in tha wiotar to |Hx» 
 uon with wkich to dcMrajr 
 M. W. 
 
 watara of the P»ei«e, which bring the SflO.OOO.WW of China, 
 tha many milliona of thr «aat lnJi«a and of Auatnlaaia, and 
 lay them at our Aoon with opening hanila to recei»a owr pro- 
 duce! which, with tha numeroua whale aliipt that lilwally 
 whitan tha Northern Parlflc, calling not only for proriaiona. 
 but harbora to winter in. moat aver afford one of iha moat 
 axtenaive markeoi in the world for all kinda of product, and 
 ona concerning wliioh there need ba but little fwr that it will 
 ever ba o»ertlorked. K market compared with which, that 
 offered by weaiern Europe to (he eaatcrn aaction of the United 
 Slalaa, will become aa a drop to tha bucket Tha United 
 Suiaa* Commercial Agent at Oahu. Sandwich falnnda. ia dwi- 
 roue to make a contract for a ceruin amount of pro»iaiona lo 
 be iupplied to American ahipping awry year at Oregon oltyj 
 but aa yat tha aoppliea of the country over and abo»a the 
 home conmimption, are not aofllclent to warrant a dependence 
 of our whale ahipping upon the country. In fact for many 
 year*, while tha United Statea continue \n pour their inhabl- 
 unia by tana of thouaanda, ercry year, into thia young repub- 
 lic, tha home market muat continue in competiilon with tha 
 foreign. But tha day ia not diatant whan thia country, aalUad 
 oy an Indoatriooe, virtuoua, Sahbath-loWng people, governed 
 by wholeaoma lawa, bleaaed with achoola, and the inatituUona 
 of oor holy religion, will hold otil abundant encouragamenta 
 for the numerooe whale and merchant ahlpa of tha Pacific to 
 leave their heavy lading of three yeara' aupply of provlaiona 
 at home, and depend upon the market in the immediate vicinity 
 of their fiahinf grounda. Othera following In their track, 
 learning of thia new world, and finding out our ample harbora. 
 aoon thia Illlla obacura point upon the map of the world will 
 become a aeeond North American Repoblio — her eommeree 
 whitening every aea, and her crowded porta fiinned by the 
 flaga of ev«ry nation. From thia upper country, a diatanoa of 
 d)re« hondrwl or four hundred milea, drovea of cattle and ahoap 
 Ota U drlvto to the lower portiona of the Colnnbia river. 
 
174 
 
 APFirnMX. 
 
 
 with far less expense wid labor than they are driven the aaiiie 
 distances in the Slates, always being in the midst of grass 
 upon which they may feed every night without charge. 
 
 The principal harbors are Puget's Sound, mouths of Colum- 
 bia, Fraaier's, Sh-'hales, Umpqua, Rose and Clamet rivers. 
 DoubUess others will be discovered, as the country becomes 
 more known. A dangerous bar extends nearly across the 
 mouth of the Columbia, leaving but a narrow obscure channel, 
 difficult of access or egress, except with favorable winds. 
 Vessels sometimes find it impoesible to enter the river by 
 reason of contrary winds ; and sometimes are detained in th« 
 river two or three months, there not being sea room enough 
 f go out against a head wind, Tha difficulty could be 
 greatly obviated, and perhaps removed, by a pilot boat Con- 
 cerning the olhar rivers I have no cerUin knowledge, but have 
 been informed that some of them are navigable for v* sseU 
 from forty to sixty miles, and aflbrd convenient Imrbors. 
 Puget's Sound, as before observed, is one of the safest and 
 best harbors in the world, it can be entered or left uader any 
 winds and at any season of the year. The scenery around is 
 said to be most enchanting. Two lakes near sending off" » 
 smaU strfam of pure water. A considerable river runs into the 
 sound, making a faU of somu twenty-five feet just as it plunges 
 into the sea, affording the opportunity of building miUs upon 
 
 the wharfs. 
 
 But very Utde has been known by Americans concerning 
 the extensive country north of the Columbia, till last winter. 
 I have several times been told by British subjf/cte that the 
 countries bordering onFraxier's river and Pnge's Soun«» were 
 too sterile for cultivation, and but poor crops coc^ Us raised 
 on the Cowlitz. Whereas, the exploring party who left Ore- 
 gon city, last winter, report that thej found a very extenstv* 
 country north of the Columbia river, of sppwenUy good soil, 
 well timbered with pine and oak, and well watered with th* 
 foUowing rivers and their tribotaries, vi*; The OoirUl^t 
 emptying into the Columbia river flpdm the north ; the Shahdea, 
 
 mmm 
 
ra driven the nni« 
 ihe midei of grue 
 lout charge, 
 months of Colum- 
 md Glamet rivem. 
 B country becomei 
 nearly across the 
 iw obscure channel, 
 I favorable winds, 
 enter the river by 
 are detained in the 
 sea room enough 
 difficulty could be 
 a pilot boat Con- 
 ;ncwledge, but have 
 r/igable for vessels 
 onvenient harbors. 
 i of the safest and 
 >d or left u jder any 
 le scenery aroand is 
 I near sending otf» 
 le river runs mto the 
 let just as it plunges 
 buUding milU upon 
 
 nerieans concerning 
 bia. till last winter, 
 h subjr/cl0 that the 
 Pnge's Soun*? were 
 ops epc^'^ '««« raised 
 party who left Ore- 
 ind a very extensive 
 ipparendy gdod soH^ . 
 ell watered witli <%i 
 «; Th« OoirUlf » 
 north ; the ShahalM, 
 
 Avnsnax. 
 
 175 
 
 Tonning into a small bay north of the Columbia river ; the Nes- 
 qualla, rising near the source of the CowliU, and running north 
 Into Puget's Sound ; Frazier's river north of ihis, and several 
 smaller ones not named. . « j 
 
 On the Cowlitz, Nesqualla and Fratier's nvers, the Hudson 
 Bay Company have large establishments, and are producin| 
 vast quantities of wool, beef, pork, and all kinds of grain, for 
 British whale ships which frequent the harbors. Besides these 
 establishments, they have extensive firms and herds at Van- 
 couver, in the Willamette valley and Colvile, and tradmg post. 
 on Vancouver island, and at the mouth of the Columbia nver, 
 Umpqua, Vamsouver, Wallawalla, Okanakan and Colvile, Boise 
 uid fort Hall, with very many at the north. Some of these 
 are rtrongly fortified, and are being well suppUed with carnon 
 and other munition, of war, by almost every ship that arrives. 
 So I have been informed by persons from these ships. 
 
 With the extensive valley watered by the Willamette and 
 its numerous tributaries, you are better acquainted than myself, 
 as 1 have never visited that coantry. I cannot, however, deny 
 myself the pleasure of expressing my opinion of the country, 
 formed from '^formaUon derived yearly from scores of persons 
 who have dwelt long in, or tratekd more or less throngh its 
 extensive territory, at all seasomr of the year. ^ „ ; . 
 
 On the wert the great valley is separated from the Pocifie 
 by alow range of well timb«red moa..tahis, that give rise to 
 nmneroas strewne and small rivers, some of which are Utely 
 found enfllrient to admit vesseb. On the east it is bounded 
 by the Cascade or President's range, everywhere abounding 
 with white pine and cedar. The Willamette river rises in lat- 
 itttde 4»S and runa north atid empUes itself into the Columbia 
 river 8» miles above its mouth. The falls of the WiUamelta 
 ai« rixmt thirty miles above its rabutb, and must ever add ft 
 vest interest to the country. TJi« power for nfillsmnd ina^ 
 ohihery tHatmiy be:*iootBd«i«»ch iide of thariveMfad on 
 1hr«Hndmlhe-middletjHbe«to;« tdequato fw^ any 
 
 conceivable daln«M^ ~ 
 
T 
 
 . Oregon city, eitutted st lh« fclU on the eaat tide of th* rirwr, 
 oontaino over five hundred iOulB, about eighty houMS, vi«. : 
 two churched, two blaolwmith ihcpn, one cooper Bhop, two 
 cabinet shope, four tailor ahopa, one hatter'a shop, one tannery, 
 three ahoe ahopa, two ailver amiih*, four itorea, two Uvema, 
 two flouring and two saw mills, and a lathe machine. DirecUy 
 opposite, on the weat side, are two towns laid out, and build- 
 ings are going up. The face of the country in t}ie WiUametta 
 valley is rolling, rery equally divided into prairie and timbered 
 countries, with frequent oak Openings. Wheat produces well 5 
 com, potatoes, &e. produce well in some places, and probably 
 would everywhere do well with good cultivation 1 soil every- 
 where considered of a superior quality. Leas ttmr during 
 tho winter season than in the middle district, but much mora 
 rain, with fogs, on the low lands during the summer, which 
 render the *- . 'ry less healthy than this middle region ; ftut 
 still the eottwv./ cannot be oooiidered an unhealthy country. 
 The face of tho country is everywhere covered with bunch 
 grass,* and animals feed out dirough the winter, as in tho mid- 
 dle repon. 
 
 The rivers Umpqua, Rose and Clamet, which empty into 
 the Paoific south of the Cdumbis, are said to water eztensivo 
 fertile countries ; but as y3t very little is known of thes« ro. 
 gions. Ships oome up Hm Willametto river within a few 
 miles of Oregon city. Concerning the road for wagons oom> 
 meneed south of Mount Hood, and which is to be coBipleted 
 this summer, to be in readiness for the next emigration, you 
 are better acquainted than myself. 
 
 I am happy to recommend to funi»-s eniigrants your direc- 
 tions and advice aa to the best mode of tratelipg; number of 
 wag .^na desirable to travel togetlwr; quantity of provisions 
 requir«<d for each person ; best route; distance to be traveled 
 each day. You will also b« able to give tho ptkm for which 
 for whidi &• Hudwjn Bay eempany saile aoor, at Forte Hril 
 
 • iJkmm (nstt^) it ■wssabwdiatfa * m,,^ ^ 
 
 «#t 
 
 w. 
 
APPENDIX 
 
 1T7 
 
 salt aide of A» lireri 
 eighty houm, vis. t 
 B cooper ahop, two 
 's bhop, one tanntry, 
 
 atorea, two taverns, 
 a machine. Directly 
 a laid out, and build* 
 try in the Willamette 
 prairie and timbered 
 ^heat producea well ; 
 plaoea, and probably 
 llivationi aoii every- 
 Lea* §navr during 
 itrict, but much more 
 
 the aummer, whioh 
 I middle region; but 
 n unhealthy sonntry. 
 covered with buuoh 
 winter, as in the mid- 
 
 »t, whieh empty into 
 lid to water eztenaive 
 I known of (heaere* 
 I river within a few 
 road for wagona com* 
 ieh is to be coBiplet^ 
 next emigration, you 
 
 and Bois, and for which it is brought from the Willamette to 
 ttie Dalles and sold. 
 
 You are acquainted with the fact that the Misaion atation at 
 thia place, and at Waiilatpu, have been in the habit of furnish- 
 ing provisions to immigranU. We are willing to do ao as long 
 aa there are no other sources of supplies in this vicinity, and 
 therefore seeme a duty. But our object in the country ia to 
 civilize and Chrialianize Uw Indian tribes among whom we 
 are located. We are stewards of the property of others. We 
 receive no salariee, but aimply our living and clothing. We 
 therefore feel it to be our duty to endeavour to make the re- 
 eeipta for provisions sold, nett their expenses. For this end, 
 Mr. Gilbert, a genUeman from New York, has taken charge 
 of the secular affairs of this station, and will furnish provisions 
 to immigmnte on the moat reasonable terms. He will give 
 you their probable prices, fjid the names of such things as will 
 be taken in exchange. You have seen the quantity and qual 
 ity of flour and beef at this place, aa also at Waiilatpu. 
 Yours very sincerely, 
 
 H. H. SPALDING. 
 
 P. S. During last season, eommeneing a2d of January, I 
 collected and preserved over two thousand different species ot 
 flowers, plants and grasses,* many of which I think are rare, 
 but I am no botanist. 
 
 • Probably what a» ealUd apedaa her^aia in mmy c««ea enly a varia^ 
 erthaaamaapa^as. ^^ 
 
 emigrants your diree* 
 trateling; number of 
 tiantity of provisions 
 listanoe to be traveled 
 a the piett kit whioh 
 [leaoar, at Forte Hall 
 
 <w^ 
 
 w. 
 
 jeitwiiuijiiiriiijiiiMiiiin i ■■"T" 
 
te 
 
 r 
 
 ORGANIC LAWS OF OREGON 
 
 (WITH AMENDMENTS.) 
 
 The Legislativi -mmittee recommend that thefol- 
 lowing Laws be adopted. 
 
 PREAMBLE. 
 
 W«, th« people of Oregon Territory, ff r purpoeea of mutual 
 protection, and to aecore peace and prosperity among our- 
 Beivea, agree to adopt the following laws and regulations, 
 until aucih time as the United States of America extend their 
 jurisdiction over ns. 
 
 Be it enacted, therefore, by the free citizens of Oregon Ter- 
 ritory, that the said tenitory, for purposes of temporary gov- 
 emmettt, be divided into not less than three nor more than 
 five districts, subject to ba extended to a greater number when 
 an Increase of populatiofa shall require. 
 
 For the purpose of fixiiig the principles of civil and religioni 
 Iflierty, a« the basis of all laws and constitutions of govern- 
 ment that may hereafter be adopted— 
 
 Be ••' enacted, That the following articles b** considered 
 mMtit p*" eofnpaiit among die free citiieua of this territory ; 
 
 > ARTICLE li 
 
 I L JS i .>ewoo demeaning himself ia a peaceable and or- 
 dttly aaaaw. riiali eT#^bo molested on adiaoHnt of his mod» 
 «rf worehip c* feyfk«>^ iwniimiHHi. ^^^ 
 
 ini>iiiiiM>iitljWi nwwww— JM 
 
IM 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 § 2. The inhabiUniB of said territory ahnll hlwiys bo entitled 
 to the benefiu of the writ of habeas corpus and trial by jury, 
 of a proportionate representation of the people in the legisla* 
 ture, and of judicial proceedings, occording to the course of 
 common law. All persona shall be bailable, unless for capiul 
 offences, where th» proof shall b« evident or the presumption 
 great. All fines shall be moderate, and no cruel or unusual 
 punishm'^nta shall be inflicted. No roan shall be deprived of 
 his liberty but by the judgment of his peers, or the law of the 
 !rnd ; and should the public exigencies make it necessary for 
 the common preservation to take any person's property, or 
 to demand his prticular services, full compensation shall be 
 made for the same ; and in the just preservation of rights and 
 property, it is understood and declared that no law ought ever 
 to be made, or have force in said territory, that shall, in any 
 manner whatever, interfere with or affect private contracts 
 or engagements, " bona fide " and without fraud previously 
 formed. 
 
 § 3. Religion, morality miH knowledge being necessary to 
 good g-overnment and the happiness of mankind, schools and 
 the means of education shall forever be encouraged. The 
 utmost good faith shall always be observed towards the In* 
 dians ; their landa and properly shall never be taken from them 
 without their consent; and in their pi&perty, rights or liberty 
 they shall never be invaded or disturbed, unless in just and 
 lawful wars, authorised by the representatives of the people ; 
 but laws founded in justice and humanity shall, from time to 
 time, be made for preventing injustice being done to them, 
 and for preserving peace and friendship with them. 
 
 $ 4. There shall be no slavery nor involuntary servitude «q 
 said territory otherwise than for the punishment of crimes, 
 whereof the party shall Have been duly convicted. 
 
 41 No person ehaU b« deprived of the r%ht of hearing 
 U1BS ittMsOWn (^enoo ; no nnreuoMble searehea or soizureo' 
 shall be granted ; tha freedom of dM pNM tball tt&« b*ire> 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 181 
 
 ill klways bo entitled 
 un and trial by jury, 
 [leople in the legiaU'- 
 ng to the courae of 
 lie, unleaa for capital 
 t or the preaufliption 
 no cruel or unusual 
 shall be deprived of 
 ra, or the law of the 
 lake it necessary for 
 erson'a property, or 
 tmpenaation shidl be 
 rration of rights and 
 at no law ought ever 
 ry, that shall, in any 
 set private contract* 
 out fraud previoualy 
 
 e being necessary to 
 lankind, schools and 
 I encouraged. The 
 rved towards the In* 
 nr be taken from them 
 erty, rights or liberty 
 i, ualess in just and 
 atives of the people ; 
 y shall, from time to 
 being done to them, 
 vith them, 
 
 roluntary aerritude «n 
 unishment of crimes, 
 eonvieted. 
 
 the right of )>e8riiig 
 
 le aearehes or seixuree 
 paw «biU ttft^ titiw*' 
 
 strained ; no person shall be twice tried for the same offence » 
 nor the people deprived of the right of poaceahly aasembling 
 and discuMing at?y matter they may think proper ; nor shall 
 the right of petition ever be denied. 
 
 § 6. The powers of the government shall be divided into 
 three distinct departments— the legislative, executive, and judi- 
 cial ; and no person, belonging to one of these departments, 
 shall exercise any of the powers properly belonging to either 
 of the others, except In cases herein directed or permitted. 
 
 ARTICLE II. 
 
 § 1. The legislative power shall be vested in a House of 
 Representatives, which shall consist of not less than thirlecR 
 nor more than sixty-one members, whose numbers shall not 
 be increased more than five at any one session, to be elected by 
 the qualified electors at the annual election, giving to each dis- 
 trict a representation in proportion to ita population, (exclu- 
 ding Indians,) and the said members shall reside in the dUtricl 
 for which they shall be chosen ; and in case of vacancy by 
 death, resignation or otherwise, the executive shall issue hia 
 writ to the district whero srafh vacancy has occurred, and 
 cause a new election to be held, g-vin^ sufficient notice at least 
 ten days previously, of the time mi^ j^hm of holding said elec- 
 tion. 
 
 § «. The House of Representative*, when assembled, shall 
 choose a Bpeaker and its other officers, be judges of the quali- 
 fications anil election of ita members, and ait upon ita own ad- 
 journment from day to day. Two thirds of th« House shall 
 eonstitnte a quorum to tranaaet business, but a smaller number 
 may adjourn from day to day, and may be authorised by Uw 
 to compel the attendance of abaent members. 
 
 $ 8. The House may determine the rules of its proceeding*, 
 pnnish iu members for disorderly behavior, and with the Con- 
 currence of two-ihirds, expel a member, but not a second time 
 for die aame oiTenee ; and shall have all powers neeeaaary for 
 
 
IM 
 
 ArPRNDIX. 
 
 • legiflature of a tamporary government, not in eontravenUoH 
 with the reelrictiona itnpoaed in ttiia Urgaiiic Law. 
 
 § 4. 'I'he Houai* of UepresenUtivea shall, Iruni lime to time, 
 fix the salnriea of the iliHTerenl oftinera appointed or elected un> 
 der thia compact, provided the pay of no oflicer ahall be altered 
 during llie term of hia aervicei nor ahall the pay of the IIoub« 
 Imi increased by any law taking effect during the aeaaion at 
 which Buch alteration ia made. 
 
 §0. The House of KepresenUtivea shall have the aol* 
 power of impeaching ; thrce-fourtha of all the members muat 
 concur in an impeachment. The governor and all civil oflicera 
 tinder theae articlea of compact, shall be liable to impMchment 
 for treason, bribery, or any high crime or misdemeanor in 
 office. Judgment in auch cases ahall not extend further than 
 removal from office, and disqualification to hold any office of 
 honor, trust or profit under Uiis compact ; but the party convto« 
 ted may be dealt with according to law. 
 
 § 6. The Houae of Representatives ahall have power to lay 
 out the territory into auitable dislricta, and apportion the repr*' 
 aentatton in their own body. They ahall have power to pass 
 laws for raising a revenue either by the levying and coHecting 
 of taxes, or the impoaing license on merchandiie, ferries, or 
 other objects— to open roads and canalo, either by the levying 
 a road tax, or the chartering of companies ; to regulate the 
 inlerrx)urse of the people with the Indian Iribea ; to esUblish 
 post offices and post roads ; to declare war, suppreaa insurrec- 
 tion or repel invaaion ; to provide for the organizing, arming, 
 and disciplining the militia, and for calling forth the militin to 
 execute the laws of Oregon ; to pass laws to regulate the iatw 
 duction, manufacture, or sale •f ardent spirits ; to regulats the 
 currency and internal pdice of the country ; to create inferior 
 officee necessary and not provided for by these articles of com- 
 pact ; and generally to paaa such laws to promote the general 
 welfare of the people of Oregon, not contrary to the spirit of 
 thia inatniiiMiiit; aad all powers not hereby expressly d^egatod. 
 
 m 
 
APfKNDIX 
 
 Itt 
 
 not in eontravenUoM 
 ;aiiic Law. 
 
 nil, Ironi lime to time, 
 pointed or elected un* 
 >fncer ahHll be altered 
 the pay of the IIouM 
 luriug the aeaaion at 
 
 ■hall have the aole 
 ill (he membera muat 
 >r and all civil oflicera 
 iable to impeachment 
 9 or iniademeaitor in 
 t extend further than 
 to hold any office of 
 
 but the party convio* 
 
 lall have power to lay 
 d apportion the repre* 
 11 have power to peaa 
 levying and collecting 
 srchandize, ferriea, or 
 either by the levying 
 nies ; to regulate the 
 n tribes; to est^'bliah 
 ar, suppress insurrec- 
 le orgnnizing, arming, 
 \g forth the militin to 
 s to regulate the iatrcH 
 pirits ; to regulats the 
 ry ; to create inferior 
 these articles of com- 
 promote the general 
 ntrary to the spirit of 
 y expresdy dcdegatod. 
 
 mi 
 
 remain with the people. The House of Kepre««niatives sbaU 
 convene annually ou the fir»t Tuwday in December, at .uch 
 pUce as may be provided by law, and shall, upon their first 
 meeting after the adopUou of thia instrument of compact, pro- 
 ceed to elect and define U»e duties of a secretary, recorder, 
 trea«urer, auditor, marshal, or other officers necessary to carry 
 into eflect the provisions of this oompacU 
 
 §7. The executive j^ower shall Iw vested in one person, 
 elected by the qualified voters at the annual election, who shall 
 have power to fill vacancies ; to remit fines and forfeitures ; to 
 grant pardons and reprieve, for offences against the laws of the 
 terriu.ry ; to call out the mUiury force of the country to repel 
 invasion or suppress insurrection; to take care that tlie lawa 
 are faithfully executed, and to recommend such laws as he 
 may consider necessary to U.e representatives of Uie people 
 for their action. Every bill which shaU have been passed by 
 the House of Representatives, shaU, before it becomes a law, 
 be presented to the governor for hie approbation. If he ap- 
 prove, he shall sign it; if not. he shall return it, wiOi hU ob. 
 iections. to the House, and the House shall cause the objectione 
 to be entered at large on ita journals, and shaU proceed to 
 reconsider the bill ; if, after such reconsideration, a majority 
 of two-thirds of the House shall agree to pass the same, it sbaU 
 become a law. In such cases the vote shaU be taken by ayes 
 and noes, and be entered upon the journal. If any biU shaU 
 not be returned by the governor to the House of Representa- 
 Uvea within three days (Sundays eiccepted) after it shall have 
 been presented to him, the same shall bocome a law m like 
 manner as if the governor had signed it, unless the House of 
 Baprespntativea, by ita adjournment, shaU prevent ita retuxn , 
 ia which case it shall not become a law. The governor shall 
 ooatinue in office two years, and unUl his successor u- duly 
 elected and qualified ; and in case of the office becoming vacant 
 by death. resignaUon, it otherwise, the secretary «h^ ««» 
 oise the douea of the office ur til the vacancy shaU be filled by 
 
ArPRNtMX. 
 
 •If^tion. The gcivernoi •hall receivo the ■um of doltara 
 
 per annum, •■ full coinpenaetinn Tor hie servicee, which •tiin 
 miiy be incrrMeU or diininwhed >t iiiy time hy law, provided 
 the eaUry uf no governor aliail Im altered during hia term of 
 ■ervice. The governor ahall have power to eonvere the legie- 
 Uture on oitraordinary oceuiona. 
 
 $ 8. The judicial power ahall be veated in a aupreme court, 
 ■nd auch inferior courts of law, equity, and nrbitration, aa may, 
 by law from time U> lime be eatablitlied. The anprRine court 
 •hail conaiat of one judge, who ahall be elected by the Houae 
 of RflpreaenUtivea, and hold hia office for four yeare, and until 
 hia aucceaaor ia duly olrcted and qualified. The aupreme court, 
 except in caaca otherwiafi directed by thia compact, ahall have 
 appellate juriadiclion only, which ahall be co-extenaive with 
 thie territory, and ahall hold two aeaainna annually, beginning 
 on the flral Mondays in June and September, and at auch pla- 
 ce* ae by law may Iw directed. The aupreme court ahall have 
 a general auperintending control over all inferior courta of law. 
 It ahall have power to iiaae write of habeaa corpus, manda 
 mua, quo wnrranto, certiorari, and other original remedial write, 
 and hear and determine the aame. The aupreme court ahall 
 have power to decide upon and annul any lawa oontrary to the 
 proviaiona of theae artiolea of compact, and whenever called 
 upon by the Houae of Repreaen tali yea, the aupreme judge 
 ahall give hia opinion touching the validity of any pending 
 meaaure. The Houae of Repreaentutivea may, hereafler, pro* 
 vide by law for the aupreme court having original juriadiotioa 
 in criminal casea. 
 
 §9. All officers under this mmpaet, ahaU take an oath, ta 
 foUowa, to wit : I do aolemnly a vear, that I will eupport the 
 Organic Lawa of the proviaional Government of Oiegon, so 
 far aa snid Organic Lawa are conaistent with my dntiee as a 
 eitixen of the United Statea, or a aubjoet of Oreat Britain, and 
 faithfully demean myself in office. So help me Ood- 
 
 $ 10. Every free male deacendant of a white man, inhabitant 
 
 MM 
 
lutn of dotlara 
 
 ervicea, which •iiin 
 
 ti« hy law, provided 
 
 during hia Unrm of 
 
 eunvtr* tht l«(it> 
 
 in a aupreme court, 
 
 1 nrbitration, aa may, 
 The RiiprRuie raurt 
 lected by the Ilouaa 
 four yeara, and unlil 
 The aupreme court, 
 compact, ahall have 
 e co-flxtenaive with 
 annually, beginning 
 Mr, and at auch pla^ 
 ime court ahall have 
 irerior courta of law. 
 )«u eorpua, mands 
 ginal remedial write, 
 aupreme court ahall 
 lawa contrary to the 
 md whenever called 
 
 the aupreme judge 
 
 dity of any pending 
 
 muy, hereafter, pro* 
 
 original juriadioiioo 
 
 leU take an oath, te 
 It I will eupport the 
 iment of Oiegon, M 
 with my dntiee ae a 
 i( Great Britain, and 
 elp me God- 
 rhiie man, inhabitant 
 
 ArrKNMX. 
 
 <M thia territory, ol tm age flf twenty^ne yeart and iipwarde, 
 wlio ahall have been -.. inhabitant of thi« territory at ilie lime 
 of ita orgnniaation. ah .' be entitled to vote at the election ol 
 offleera, civil and mili .ry, and be eligible to any office in the 
 terrilorv, rmvided, tl .i nil peraona of the deacriplion eniiUed 
 to vole by the provit .• of tliia aeclion, who ahall emigrate 
 to thia tenitory after '^ organiiation, ahall be entitled to Uie 
 righta of ciliiena afU; '.< .*mg reaidtd aix montha in the ter- 
 ritory. 
 
 ^11. The election fr,- ell civil oflieera, provided for by thia 
 compact, ahall be held ?"d Aral Monday in June annually. 
 
 ARTIC ?>: Ill— LAND LAW. 
 § 1. Any peraon now holding, or hereafter wiihing to eatab- 
 liah a claim to lan«l in - territory, chaU denignaie the eitent 
 of hie claim by natur i -undariee, or by ratrka at the cornera 
 and upon the linea . ' snch claim, and have the extent and 
 boundariea of aaid el ; *. recorded ia the office of the territorial 
 recorder, in a book k; «« kept by him for that purpeee, within 
 twenty daya from th^ isme of making aaid claim : provided, 
 that thoae who ahmll hii already in poeaeaeion of land, alull b« 
 allowed twelve montii« from the paaaage of thia act to file ■ 
 dMcription of hie clain; in the recorder'a office : and provided 
 l\irther,that the aaid deimint ahall aUta in liia record, the aise, 
 •hape, and locality of auch eUiim, and give the namea of the 
 adjoining claimante ; and the recorder may require the appli- 
 eant for auch record to be made to anawer, oo hia oath, lotwh* 
 
 inn ^ ^^' 
 
 § a. All clainunle ahall, within aix montha from the time of 
 retording their daime, jiako permanent iniprovemente apoa 
 the aame, by building or encloeing, and alao become an oceti. 
 pant upon eaid claim wiUiin one year from the date of auch 
 record, or in caae not occapied, the peraon holding aaid daim 
 ahall pay into the ireaaury the earn of five dollara annually, 
 and in caea of failure to ojcupy, or on faiiurt of payment of 
 It 
 
 ■ ■-# 
 
r 
 
 Its 
 
 APrK.NMX 
 
 tha lum above lUtMl, the claim ahall )>• eoitaidrrwl m aMB* 
 donad : providad, that no noa-raaldant of Ihia Mrritorjr ahall 
 hava tha boneflt of thla law : and, provided further, that any 
 rtaidant of thla territory, abaant on private buaineaa Tor two 
 yaara, may hold hie claim by paying fiv« doUara annually to 
 the treeaury. 
 
 $ 8. No individual ahall b« allowed to hold a claim of mora 
 than one aquare mils, or eii hundred and forty acrea, in • 
 aquaro or oblong fonn, according to the natural aituution of 
 the premiaea. Nor ahall any individual b« nllowed to hold 
 more than one claim at the aame lime. Any peraon comply- 
 ing with the proviaiona of theae ordinancea, ahall be entitled 
 to the aame rerourae agaiiiat treapaaa aa in other caaea by law 
 provided. 
 
 $ 4. Partnerahipe of two or more peraona ahall be allowed 
 to take up a tract of land not exceeding aix hundred and forty 
 •erea to each perann in aaid partnarahip, aubjeot to all the pro* 
 viaiona of the law ; and whenever aueh partnerahip ia dia* 
 ■oWed, the membora ahall each record the particular paru of 
 aaid tract at may Im allotted to him : provided that no member 
 of aaid partnerahip ahall hold n aeparata elum at the timo of 
 the exiatence of aaid partnerahip. 
 
 $ 9. The boundary Ilnea of nil daima ahall hereafter ooa< 
 (brm, aa near as my be, to the cardinal pointa. 
 
 $ 6. The ofReera eleoted at the general election, held on tho 
 ftrat Tueaday in June, 1841), ahall be the offlcera to aot under 
 this orgsnic law, and their ofliaial acta, ao far aa they are in 
 accordance with this compact, are hereby declared valid and 
 lagaL 
 
 $7. Amendmenta to thia inatrament nay be propoaed by 
 the Houae of Repreaentativea, two-thirda of the membera con* 
 curring therein ; which amendmenta ahall be made public in 
 aU part* of Oregon, and be read at tha polla at the next sue< 
 eeedtng general electiori, and a eonourrenee of (wo-thir(b of all 
 
 MM 
 
 mm 
 
f 
 
 • » 
 
 »iiii«lfr*(l a* BMO* 
 hia Urrilorjr ■lull 
 1 Turiher, ihat any 
 buaiiiMi for two 
 dollira annually lo 
 
 ki a olaim of mora 
 il forty acitMi, in • 
 latural aituution of 
 « nllowed to hold 
 ly peraon comply- 
 I, ahali bo antitlad 
 oth«r casea by law 
 
 a ahall ba allowod 
 huMlrwl and forty 
 )jeot to all the pro* 
 >artnorahip ia dia* 
 particular parts of 
 ed that no inembar 
 um at tlia timo of 
 
 ihall hareaftar ooa* 
 
 }inu. 
 
 ectinn. held on th« 
 
 fHccra to act undor 
 
 far aa th«y »r« in 
 
 declared ralid aod 
 
 y be propoaed by 
 ' the membera oon« 
 be made pablic in 
 la at the next aue' 
 oftwo-thirtbof aU 
 
 —immKtiSXSSA- 
 
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 23 WEST MAIN STREET 
 
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 (7! 6) 873-4S03 
 
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 microfiches. 
 
 Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductlons / Institut Canadian da n icroraproductlons historlques 
 
f^m 
 
um 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 187 
 
 the membeni elected at raid election, may paaa lald amend 
 menu, and they ahall become a pari of tliia compact. 
 
 CERTIFICATE. 
 I, John E. Ijong, aecretary of Oregon territory, do hereby 
 certify, that the foregoing ia a true and correct copy of the 
 original law, aa passed by the representatives of the people of 
 Oregon, on the fifth day of July, A. D. 1846, and submitted to 
 the people on the twenty-six:h day of the nme month, and 
 by them adopted and now on file in my office. 
 
 J. E. LONG, Secretary. 
 
 N. B. At the December Session, 1845, of the House of 
 Representatives, two-thirds of the mombera concurring therein, 
 the following amendments to the Organic Law were proposed, 
 to wit : Strike out in the 4th section of said law, the words 
 •< or more." Also, to amend the land law so as to ** permit 
 claimants to hold six hundred acres in the prairie, and forty 
 acres in the timber, though said traoti do not join." 
 
 ARDENT SPIRITS. 
 
 AN ACT to prarent the introdnetioa, nie, mi diitilhlion of ardent ipiiiis 
 
 in Ongotu 
 
 $1. Be it enacted by the Houie of Repretentativee of Ore- 
 gon Territory, That if any person shall hereafter import of 
 introduce any ardent spirits into Oregon, with intent to seli, 
 barter, give, or trade the same, and shall ofler the nme for sale, 
 trade, Imrter, or gift, he shall be fined the sum of fifty doUan 
 for each and every such offence, which may be recovered by 
 indictment, or by trial before a justice of the peace, without 
 the form of pleading. 
 
 $ 2. That if any person shall hereafter sell, barter, give, or 
 trade any ardent spirits of any kind whatever, directly at indi- 
 itetly, to aiiy person within Oregon, he sliaU forftit and pay 
 
188 
 
 AIYBNDIX 
 
 the •um of Iwenty dollart for ewh and every euch ule, trade, 
 barter, or gift, to be recovered by indictment iu the county 
 court, or before a juatice of the peace, without the form of 
 pleading. 
 
 $ 8. That if any peraon aliall hereafter eiUbliah or carry on 
 any manufactory or diatillery of ardent apirite in Oregon, he 
 ahall be aubject to be indicted before the county court, aa for ft 
 nuisance, and if convicted, he ahall be fined the aum of one 
 hundred dollar* ; and the court ahall iisaue an order to the aher- 
 iff, directing him to aeixe and deatroy the distilling apparatua, 
 which order the sheriff ahall execute. 
 
 $ 4. Whenever it shall come to the knowledge of any offi- 
 cer of this government, or any private citizen, that any kind of 
 apirituoua liquora are being distilled or manufactured in Ore- 
 gon, they are hereby authorised and required to proceed to the 
 place where such illicit manufacture is known to exiat, and 
 aeixe the diatilling apparatus, and deliver the aante to the near- 
 eat district judge or justice of the peace, whoae duly it ahall be 
 immediately to issue his warrant, and cauae tlie houae and 
 premi'-' of the perton against whom such warrant ahall 'ae 
 iaaved v: oe further searched; and in case any kind of spirivu- 
 ous liquora are found in or about said premiaea, or any imple- 
 nente or epparatua that have the appearance of having been 
 used or constructed for the purpose of manufacturing any kind 
 of apirituoua liquora, the officer who ahall have been duly au- 
 dtorised lo execute aaid warrant, ahall seize all auch appwa- 
 tOB, implements, and spirituous liquors, and deliver the same 
 to the jndge or juatice of the peace who issued the said war- 
 not; said officer shall also arrest the peraon or paraona in or 
 about whoae premiaea anch apparatua, implements, or spirilu* 
 one liquora are found, and conduct him or them to aaid judga 
 or justice of the peaee, whoae doty it. ahall ba to proceed 
 against aueb eriminal or crininals, and dispose of tha artielea 
 riased, acooiding to law. 
 f B. AUfinaa and panabiaa iaspoead imdartiqa afet, ahall g»i 
 
 
 
ry such tale, trade, 
 ent iu the county 
 thout the form of 
 
 itabliah or carry on 
 rile in Oregon, he 
 iinty court, aa for 6 
 id the ram of one 
 n order to the sher* 
 liiUlliog apparatut, 
 
 wledge of any offi- 
 n, that any kind of 
 inufaetured in Ore- 
 k1 to proceed to the 
 lown to exist, and 
 le aame to (he near- 
 loae duly it ahall be 
 uie tlie house and 
 h warrant shall 'm 
 any kind of spirivu- 
 nises, or any imple- 
 ice of having been 
 ufacturing any kind 
 have been duly au- 
 se all such appara* 
 d deliver the same 
 seoed the said war- 
 on or persons in or 
 ilaments, or spirilu* 
 r them to said judg* 
 ihall be to proceed 
 ipose of th* articles 
 
 Jertlqa afet, shall fo. 
 
 u 
 
 APPENDIX. ,^ 
 
 one-half to tlie informant and witnesses, and the other half to 
 the officers engaged in arresting and trying the criminal or 
 crimiaals ; and it ahall be the duty of i^ officers into whose 
 hands such fines and penalties may come, to pay over as direc- 
 ted in this section. 
 
 $ 0. Tliis act shall not be so construed as to prevent any 
 practising physician from selling such liquors for mediebe, 
 not to exceed half a pint at one time. 
 
 $ 7. That it shall be the doty of the aw'Jvy to poUish this 
 act in the first newspaper printed in Ore^>in. 
 
 CERTIFICATE. 
 I, John E. Long. Secretary of Oregon, do hereby certify, 
 that the foregoing act on ardent spirits, is truly and correctly 
 revised by me. J. E. LONG, Seeretary. 
 
 -^ 
 
 U:-. -KijU* '''• 
 
 ■MfBNKftmtjnnMMiiMMHKwM* 
 
I k. k r. p. Jamet'i Pnblltatioiu, CioeinnaU. 
 
 OOLLIN8*8 KENTUCKY. 
 HISTOBIOAL 8KBT0HS8 OV KEHTUOKT; 
 
 Em'aiacing iU Hiitory, AntlqulUei, and Natural CnrloaiUM, Geo- 
 graphical, SUtiitlcal, and Geological deacriptiona ; with anecdote* of 
 Pioneer life, and moeb THAU oiib huhdseo Bioo»AyH»CAt bketcru 
 of diittlnguiihed Ploneera, Soldiers, SUteamen, JurlaU, Law/era, 
 DivineB,&e.( 
 ILLUSTRATED BY A MAP OF THE STATE, 
 
 Aars vrwAXD or Foirr mra noBAYoroi, 
 
 Br LBWIS COLLINS. 
 
 FLAN or THK WUXK. 
 
 1. An OoUlne Htitory of the State from the period of tta earileit MtUemenl 
 to the cloaa of the year 1A44— c^ John A. M'Clunf . EUq. 
 
 9. Geomphlcal and StaUrtlcal DeacrlpUona, Agrlcaltural ResouKea, Oeo- 
 logieid Fomtatlona, and Mineral wealth. 
 
 3 H-atorlcal Sketchea and SUtUUot of the varloua denomlnaUona of ChrU- 
 tiant, with ■lietchee of Pioneer Miniatera. 
 
 4. A general view of the counUea, alphabetically arranged ; their bounda- 
 rfea, face of the conntry, character of the aoil. ataple producU. lU- 
 tietice, Amj. i with a deacriptlon of their eitiea, towns and vUlagea. 
 Together with a full deacripUon, under the heada of the counties thus 
 arranaed, of Indian battles, sklmiUhes, personal rencontors, aneodotesof 
 border life, inurestlng incident., dtc.. «M5. Also, descriptions of natu. 
 ral curiosities, among them the Mammoth Gave, the greatest n.tnral 
 wondf,r of the worid ; and descriptions of Ancient Remains, Old Forts, 
 Mounds, Gravevards, &o. , . ^ , 
 
 6. Bloaraphlcal Sketches, and sketches of characters of between one and 
 two hundred Pioneers, Soldiers, fltataemen, Jurtols, Uwyers, DlTlnes, 
 
 The work comprises 560 large octaTO pa«s ; printed on good P•P«^ *^ 
 new and handaome type, and subetantUlfy bound In library style, or emboss- 
 ed cambric, gilt back ; price $3 ftO. 
 
 NOTICES OF THE PRESS. 
 
 «Mr. Colllni ha. accompli.h«l llie work wilh '^}'f''S^\^fif^JJ'^J^i^ 
 a propur apprecialion of |6« importance of lia»inf '« "•» f.^""; .n ii. .irSii? fcS' 
 frim hi* hiiid.. a work of isMni. '"»~«'.'^«" "^»i?f^ 5 tiUv orTIT^ruiwSl 
 lurei, coinpreh*n.i»e in Iw rente of '^'')*\"^*,J^^'* '» *•"'' "' ' ' 
 d«laiii at the pafae of wUdosi lelion."— CiiMmi««» »•■*••. 
 
 . • • - Betide, a real amount of TeryTal«ab1.W«OTleaLMA^^^ 
 lieal infomiMion, the work eomi>riM.aeoiirid.rabl^H»konncldjm andi^ 
 
 S.U caleulafcd to make It en. oTih. moM n»*^« *«2L» "Ji^IiSISrH. Im. warS 
 ha. tho. combinwl two important .lemsnt., ln.tr«etion and •""■••^J- '!!J'" "IKiS 
 no la&rto wndwliie praduetioa worthy of pnWie PSJ.'OMKL'"* '^ •» «»»«« 
 S^t tewlU leeelye li In M piepedioo to the merits of the book" ^ ^^ ^^_ ,„.^,. 
 
 -II U1.M ..^ a book as we soppceejijenr^UiMlH^^ » ^ ^ 
 
 iadlteonMble ^*rt of his Hbrarr. OoabtlsM, man* o«or tto awe, woo wisa w 
 TSat^ andiisiand the pnias of oar PW- **" /"S^!;,, HirM.Uuk^ 
 
 I 
 
Y. 
 iHTUOKT; 
 
 I CuriotitiM. Oeo> 
 ; with anecdotM of 
 
 UrUlOAh METCHU 
 
 , JuriaU, L&w/eri, 
 HE UTATE. 
 
 iBATorei. 
 
 tU eariieit lettlenient 
 
 unl ResourcM, Oeo- 
 
 kominaUons of Chrii* 
 
 nged ; their b«unda« 
 ■taple producU, ila- 
 , towns and villasea. 
 of tlio counties tnus 
 nconters, anoodoteR of 
 , deaoriptiona of natu- 
 I, the greatest natural 
 iRemaiua, Old Forts, 
 
 of between one and 
 lis, Lawyera, DiTinee, 
 
 m1 on good paper, with 
 irary atyle, or amboas- 
 
 38. 
 
 inbl* induMor* and wiik 
 ne. We hsve, iherefore, 
 d in all ill eiMntisI fta- 
 I in many of iu irutUiil 
 
 eal,aiailadeal,aiid gMle- 
 Bf Ineidam and an«4-<>oie, 
 ' the taawn. Tka aaihor 
 waaaMnt Hahaaapand 
 |a; and wa are eouldtai 
 
 hMI* iAwMti. XmMUi. 
 
 iweklanwlUfcdwbjaa 
 r the liaM, who wish 10 
 
 ymi»nH*rM,UuiniUt 
 
 TUB 
 
 WBITIHH FAIMBH AMD SARBENER; 
 
 PKTOm TO 
 
 Igrieoltare, lortlcnltan, the Flower Gtrdeo, Cattle BiiiiDf, 
 Silk Gnltare, kt. 
 
 p.T.nrr*ATMt WITH ITPWAXDS OF 10 nOXATIVOI ; 
 EDIYKD BY 
 
 E. J. HOOPER, THOMAS AFFLECK, AND CHARLE8 W. 
 
 ELLIOTT. EaoHS. 
 
 In OM ml, STik, IIW PMM, doth, ta, ihMp, |2 to. 
 
 This is a praeticai booli : the adilora and other able writers for the worU. 
 having had long experience In the different branohea of Agriculture, Hor- 
 tlonlture, Cattle Raising, dtc., &c., upon which they treat j and the selected 
 •rltolet being taken from the best works and journals on these subjecU, all 
 having especial reference to the climate, aoil, dtc., of the South and Wait, 
 and North w eat 
 
 AMERICAN 
 FLOWER BARBBV OOHPAHIOK. 
 
 ADAPTED TO THE UNITED STATES— Ii« Twait Pabts. 
 
 PART 1.— Arrangement of the Flower Gaidani and Propagation of 
 
 Planta. 
 PART ^ — Management of the Flower Garden, Culture of Planta, Di»- 
 
 criptive List 
 PART 3^— Corwtruetloa and Management of the Oreen*Honae. 
 
 By EDWARD SAVERS, Landaoape and Ornamental Oantener. 
 
 1 vol., IStmo., eloth, last ediUan, levlasd, oiilai|ad and Ulnttntadi Prioo, 
 7ft ata. VftT eorer, SO ota. 
 
 "»• flMMf «Mf*« «ba»«ijl»iH»ir JMwar* Saytrp, CTiMjm^t-TfceJBewaslnf 
 laau fcr ■oriachaia has callad for AinHar at^sMnc* (e MwpAyM*. and rifhl glad are 
 m aUa as ia Mr. 8. to inpan inMraellon In that daligaifcl partuil, has 
 
 wa that eiM la 
 
 ,mt»r>w >u» ~. .- ~.. — — — r- 'n in that daligaifcl partuil, has 
 
 Ini tha banaSt of hit aridantlir sntargad esperlance. t a a • • • T|,« 
 worn IS ladloleatlr arrannd, at 10 toau*. each taliitot btiiif eooBnad 10 lit preeat 
 akma. uk the whole Mabraaad by m wall printad paffta. and ia aCu«4 at a priec 
 irtSak Ma^ii^i^a Mask or aU.<wMaa.MHkte MM^toitriiM 
 
 .'A 
 ii"- 
 
 • ,>■:■ 
 
,y,f>» 
 
 VnluaLfi Booki, ptMuAtd > J. A. <k U. P. Jaioi.— Continutd. 
 
 Vha I.araar r ilaehlim, of lh« Ri>nr»n<i Aim^ilt af DiTtan, U WMtmlaiUr 
 lUlllk'il aad adu) «l b; Um B/cod of N*w Vurk and i>liilad«l|ibla. Hikiwr eottr i iViM, 
 lUMiita. 
 Tha Aaiarlaan T«Et Book i A oMful Po«k*l Maanal, at InUtaal M •wry AaiariMa 
 dtlMii ; miitalnlntt Um Dsrlaratlon of I nd»p«B<iMtM, tha Aftk'lM of i>iH>*d«r»Uiia. tha 
 ConttltuliuD or Um UulUU BUIaa, aiul WublngtoD'a fanwall AddnrM. nimo., eluth, 
 gttti Priei, iU cunU. 
 Tha Ronca of tha ACaatlama. B7 Un. lliiMira. A tilwtloB of teaatiful pUcM 
 
 from tha work* of Ihl* gtrtad arlKr. UKuo, elotb, gill: /'Hca, 16 MiiU. 
 Popa'a Kaaay •■■ Slaa 1 To wUtb U addad hi* oabbntad UnlTarial tnjn. tSmo, 
 
 cloth ; >Viw, 16 esnt*. 
 Alao, an adltkw of tha kmm, with Mlwallaaaom Psama. tamo, aloth, gUt; Pritt, 
 
 !<6 cvnti. 
 Tha Rnehantad Plamta — BalnK fablx la ynt*. by Mabamii MonoLncon tha 
 Tarloui HautloMDU panuniOad In tha k'lowart and PluiU. Sim». ctolb, v<U; CHoi, 
 26 MiiU. 
 The lasmctuico of V awarat and AlphatH of riaral iBMaaM. To which t* 
 added. KABLKH or »U i(A, and tba I'UkTICAL ITLUWKR BA8KKT. A baautlAil 
 nilnlatur* edition. 32ino, cluth, (tit; iVioe, 26 mnU. 
 Paul and VirBiala. From tha Fivnch. By J. B. U. Da Saisi Pukai. fl^o, 
 
 doth, gilt; Prter^JA cant 
 ltm*y or tha Laha. I Poara la ill Canto*. By Mr Waltm Boott. U*. - >TlMd 
 •ditlon, with an Introdi ;tl<iii, Ulonaary aud Co|<loua Not«a, hy tba author, 'ii um, 
 cloth; iVica, 'ilt wnta. "Tbara li a rlihnew and aplrlt lu thia poam — a profbalon 
 or Ineldant, and ihifUni UilUaney of eolo?ing, that nnlnda ua of tha witchary of 
 Arloalo— and a oonitan al«i<tioity and oocaalnnal energy, which aean to belong mora 
 particularly to the auUn r now butbra vt."—Jtffrtji. 
 IrfOlah Rook|i—An ( rienial nomauea, by Tbomai Uooai. tlmo, oloths Pria, 36 
 oenta. - Tbii afqulalte po in ha* long buen the admiration of raadera of all claa^M, and 
 li now preaenMd In a ne t and beautiful (brm. 
 Uoora'a Malodlaa. 1 lab Uelodlaa, br Tiomai Mooai;wltb tha origlDal prelktory 
 letter on Muaio. 32mo clot»> ; Ftiet, 36 oeoU. Tbeae celebrated melodlae are too 
 well known and appreob led, to need much eulocy : Ibey breathe throughout a apirit of 
 nattonality. In tha iaog age which "Moore" alone rould give. 
 Tha Ooaraa of Tlm< — A Poem. By RoauT PotLoi, A. M. WHb a HeoMlr of the 
 Author, by William UtI; gaton Prall, Km|. A aopioua Index, and aa Analyala, piaOiad 
 to each book. Simo, clo b; Priet, U oeal*. 
 few modern poema exiat, hich at onoa attained aoeh aeeeptaoaa and wJebrity aa PoUok ■ 
 Couraa of tIu«> Origlni lly laawid without a aama, nreikae, or a» other amndaaa, lU 
 lofty thamea. exctUng n rit, melodloua varaa, and aU>powarfU efleata upoo tha reader, 
 eompleialy aOenead Ofltl lam, aad aeonred general and iaatlng popularity. 
 FoMAiaa lioat. A F am, in twalra Boaka. By Joaw Miuoii. With Ba^aajAory 
 Kotoa, and a Lift of t a Author, I9 the Hot. U. BtebUag, A. M. 83bo, doth; Ptiot, 
 26eenla. 
 Tha Faaillr Ma«l< bI IiUnrarr—A Treatiaa on tba PrarCBtioB and Cufa s( 
 Dtiaaaea by Uagiman a id Umple Hedldnea. Uarlaad and ealargad, with tha addition 
 of a Vegetable Materia Uadloa, polaling out tba Tirtuea, prcparatlona, and doaea of ow 
 ■oat TiSuabIa naUn I edieai rUnla. awl aa ApoaBdix, Ulaatrated wllh oa* huodiad 
 KngraTlaga, air of wh eh ar* aolorad. By J. 0. MoawooB, VuV. 1 ToL tro, W3 pagaa. 
 out, aprlBg back, marl la edge; Prkt, %i. 
 FalBMr'a OracwB. LJonm^af TiaTaliomathaKoekylloaatalaiktothaaMthar 
 the Columbia HlTar, n iria duriog tha yaara 1M» aad HMi eonlaining mlnuU Daaerilh 
 tioni of tba VaUaya o( tlia WUiay t faj.J'mpffi^ ^!lS!!S!!*i * •*"*'urtrt?Be«Saaw 
 
 iUm jmf, 
 _ I Hvar t tha Oqiaale 
 
 Uwi'of <^«t<m *w Itoiy; TaMaa of aiaat toOweidt of tta OMM* itng*;^ 
 Bbeat aw ««Sta or t» a N« Paiaa Uagawai a «MMrtattoa ar MWM IMt lad^^ 
 <na^, Aa. aj Jfi'i, PAUwa. 1 ToLlimo»ato«bi Prkt, M mm»». Iha tMta walk. 
 
 MMf OOVii^ 3ft otv. M» 
 
 4Mlh ar Pnalda .t bniaoB. >a4 tha t>iM*al ar hhiiMlaa flNM Waahtaitaa t» iMh 
 SCl «7JA1II/B.riuiin. ltaLUM»alatliiMi%Waaata. 
 
 IL 
 
 ■Aiaiiiahi ■^■.~ 
 
•ip 
 
 Iaiow.— ConHntud. 
 
 r Dirtan, kl WMtmlniUr 
 >l|ibl*. Vnftoami ttiat, 
 
 r InUtMl I* (TCry Anwina 
 Ut'lM of i:lM>IMiMr»U<iB, the 
 rail AdilnrM. a:<iua., elulb, 
 
 hIwUob of bMtoU/ul ptoeM 
 
 IM, 16 MIlU. 
 
 4 UnlTWMl tnjm. SSmo, 
 
 . aaMOtiloUi, gUt; iVto, 
 
 Madahii UoKTOLno, on th« 
 I. Iim». ctoita, vlUi VHm, 
 
 «1 IIbMmu. To whieh it 
 KK BA8KKT. A bMuUAll 
 
 :. D« BAirf Pu«ti. flMO, 
 
 rAt,rm Roorr. La«. -<tIm4 
 !<•, hf tb* autbur. a'i uu>, 
 lu thu poem — • pronialoa 
 >lndi ui of Um witchuy of 
 , which M*B to Im1oo( mora 
 
 ■I. tlmo, olothi Pria, U 
 if n>d«ri of all cIv^m, and 
 
 with Ura original prtfktonr 
 
 MlabraUd mvlodlaa an too 
 
 tatho throughout a ipirlt of 
 
 iT«. 
 
 t.M. WHtiaUMaolrorth* 
 
 s, and an Analjpali, pnOxad 
 
 JM* and ohkbrity aa Pollok'i 
 , or aajr otbar appandago, iu 
 rfU UM» upon tha nadar, 
 Bg popularity. 
 
 Miuoii. With Baplaaalory 
 (, A.1I. SteOidotli; iV<ot, 
 
 M Prrfcntion and Can at 
 tnlargwl, with tha addition 
 raparatlooa, and dooM of our 
 UnatratMl wllb on* hundnd 
 ti.D. 1 TOL «T0, MS pagaa. 
 
 r Moantalu^to tha BMtk «r 
 gonlaining mlanta Daaerip- 
 lat; n gaami Piawiptlon of 
 ata.) » Ikt of niiiw H T 
 ■ - • Alio, 
 tM jraata, 
 ^ I llMri VhaOigaaie 
 of tha CMiMi '*>«>■• kwI 
 •rVMni Itoodt iMHMta of 
 , M MMtt. Ika iMM WM*, 
 
 Dn% ila. t a IM •■ »• 
 loOHi»anthaBan*a. 
 aBanr,feitha kMttaa 
 loon-caa U««r j tl)a ( 
 
 Aaaata. 
 
 CotUttmttt. 
 
 i j i i i » w ; i I I 
 
 i 
 
 m m mJ K 4 ■ ! * '■ t ' M Mm m mmk Am 
 
 M<HMarifi4**lM«<MiMi«* 
 
r 
 
 •. '! 
 
 i 
 
 — 1 iiir* *