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[February, Two thousand miles of zijj'zag shores, ruiiiiuig- south uud ruiuiiii<f north, bniuch- iuy cast and brandling west, — no won- der that the chartless De Fuca, sailing between tlreni day after day, believed himself to be exploring a vast river. Abler navigators than he, coming laer still, clung i) the idea, and it is not jet a hundred } , vrs since the majestic wa- ters received t'.ieir true name and jjlace iu the ocean i.iuiily tree. No [lossible accuracy of naming, however, no com- pleteness of delinition, can les!;en the spell of their fantastic wandering course. No matter if one were to commit their maps l;o heart and know their charts like a pilot, he would never lose a vague sense of expectation, sur[)rise, and half bewilderment in cruising among their labyrinths. Iiays within bays, inlets on inlets, seas linking seas, — over twelve thousand s(|uare miles of surface, the waters come and go, rise and fall, past a splendid succession of islands, prom- ontories, walls of forest, and towering mountains. Voyaging on them, one drifts back into their primitive past, and finds himself unconsciously living over the experiences of their earliest navi- gators. The old Indian names which still haunt the shores heighten the illu- sion ; and even the shrill screams of the saw-mill cannot wholly dispel it. The wilderness is dominant still. Vast belts of foi'cst and stretches of shore lie yet untracked, untrodden, as they were a century ago, when Vancouver's young Lieutenant Puget took the first reckon- injis and measurements of their eminent domain. 15ut the days of the wilder- ness are numbered. It is being con- quered and taken possession of by an army of invaders more irresistible than warrior-^, — men of the axe, the plow, the steam-engine ; concpierors, indeed, against whom no land can make fight. The siege they lay is a siege which can- not be broken ; for all th(! forces of na- ture are on their side. The oruunic se- crets of the earth are their allies, also the hidden things »of the «ea ; and the sun and the rain are loyal to the dynasty of their harvests. There is, iu this might of peaceful conquest of new lands by patient tillers of the soil, something so much grander than is to be seen in any of the ))rocesses of violence and seizure that one could wish there were on this globe limitless uninhabited re- gions, to make endless lure and oppor- tunity for pioneer men and women so long as the human race shall endure. Once, and not so very long ago, we thought we had such a limi'less region on our own continent. In the United States government's earlier treaties with the Indians, the country " west of the Mississipi)i " is again and again spoken of as beyond the probable reach of white settlement. In 1885, when the Cherokees were removed from Georgia to their present home in Indian Terri- tory, the United States government by treaty guaranteed to them " a perpetual outlet west, and a free and unmolested use of all the country west of their west- ern boundary," — " as far west as the sovereignty of the United Sta^'^-s and their rights of soil extend." And as late as ISi'i, one JNIr. Mitchell, a su- perintendent of Indian aifairs, said iu a report, "If we draw a line running north and south, so as to cross the J\lis- souri about the mouth of the Vermilion River, we shall designate the limits be- yond which civilized men are never like- ly to settle. At this point the Creator seems to have said to the tides of emi- gration that are annually rolling toward the west, ' Thus far shalt thou go, and no farther.' " To read such records as these to-day is half comic, half sad. 1883 'J ell throi ka, Kan Terri Colo of it tern I outl coiui b(! of men oraii; In ho, • ces' thou egon rulir of n read I iiir^^rt**!*^**^ s*^-..:»»i^iij<^>*«r«*«miM ^•w'***' •^*M»^'»*"- ^ 1883.] Pugct Sound. 210 This line recommcnclod by IMr. ]\Iitcli- ell would run just e:ist of Dukota, thi'uu^li tlio eastern portion of Nebras- ka, a littki to tlie east of the miildle of Kansas, throu<^li the middle of Indian Territory and Texas. Montana, Idaho, Colorado, and Xew Mexieo all lie west of it ; and if the Cherokees were to at- tempt to-day to claim that *' perpetual outlet to the west, and the use of all the country west of" their own, they would be confronted by hundreds of thousands of Texan rangers. New ^Iexic<i stock- men, Arizona miners, and California orange growers. In the north, across Montana and Ida- ho, — through and beyond the Nez Per- ces' old country, — immigrants by the thousand are steadily pouring into Or- egon and Washington Territory. Two railroads are racing, straining muscles of men and sinews of money, to be first ready to carry this great tide. The grandchildren of the men who are now cutting down primeval pines on the shores of Puget Sound, and on the foot- hills of Oregon's mountains, will live to see Ortigon as thickly settled as Mas- sachusetts, and the shore line of Puii'et Sound set lull of beautiful hamlets and summer homes, like the Mediterranean Kiviera. The foreseeing, forecasting of all this gives a tender, regretful, dreamy flavor to every moment of one's sailing on the Sound. As island after island recedes, and promontory after prouiontory sli[)S back a^ain into the obscuritv of its own sheltering forest shadows, the imagina- tion halts and lingers behind with them, peopling their solitudes, and creating on shore and hill a prophetic mirage of cities to be. Shiftinu fo<;s add their ca- pricious illusions and everywhere height- en the mystery and multiply the mirage. These mists are the Puget Sound lot- tei-y for voyagers, aiul, like all lotteries, tht^y deal out many bitter blanks of dis- appointment to one prize. Scores of travelers cruise for days iu the Sound without once seeing land, except when their boat touches shore. Jn duly and August, what with fogs and smoki; from burning forests, a clear dav is a rare thing, and navigation, though never dan- gerous, becomes tiresome enough. " I tell you, you get tired of feelin' your way round here in the fog, in August," saiil one of the Sound ca[)tains to us, '•It don't make any dilference to me. I can run my boat into Mctoria, when I can't see my hand's length before mo, just as well 's when it's clear sunshine ; but it's awful tedious. There's lots of folks come up here, an' go battk, and they hain't any more idea o' what the Sound 's like than 's if they 'd sat still iu Portland. I always feel real sorry for them. I just hate to sec any travel- ers comiu' abt)ard alter Auijust. June's the montli for the Sound. You people could n't have done better if you "d been sailin' here all your lives. You 've hit it exactly right." We had, inde<!d. We had drawn a seven days' prize of fair weather : they were June's last seven. It is only fair to })as3 on the mnnber of our ticket ; for it is the one likeliest to be lucky in any year. I3y boat from Portland down the Wal- "lamet River into the Columbia, down the Columl)ia to Kalama. and fi'om Ka- lama to New Tacouia by rail, is the ordinary dry- weather route from Port- land to Pugi't Soiuid. Kalama, how- ever', has a habit (A' ducking inider, in the hiiili times of the Columbia Hiver ; and at these seasons travelei's nui^t push on, northward, till llu'y come to some s|)ot where llie railroad track is above water. Ou this occasion we had to sail well up the Cowlitz Kivei" Ix-^lori^ we reached a placi! where sfeam engines could go dry-shod and sufe. Thence ninety \niles to Tacoma, — ninety miles of half-cleared wilderness ; sixteen em- bryo towns on the way, many of ihem bearing musical old Indian names : Olequa, Napavine, Kevvaukum, Cheha- 41S34 220 Pugct Sound, [February,^ lis, Scuta, Tcinino. Very poor by con- trast with tlicsc sountlt'd CViiitiT'ville, Liike A'ievv, and Ilillliurst. So, also, it must be confessed, did SUookum Ciiuck, wliich is, however, simply another in- stance of the deterioratinjj elT(;ct on tlie Indian of intercourse with the whites ; Skooknui Cinick being a phrase of the barbarous Chinook jargon invented by the Hudson IJay Company, to save themselves the trouble of learning the Indians' lau<rua<res. Skookum Chuck means " plenty of water," but it sounds like choking to death. There seems an unwitting tribute to the cleverness of the Indians in thus throwing on them the burden of learning a new laiigiuige, in which to carry on trailic and inter- course. The town of Tacoma is at the head of Admiralty Inlet. It is half on, half under, bluffs so steep that ladder-like stairways are built to scale them. It f)'onts east and south. To the east its outlook is over seas and isthmuses of forest lands. Its south horizon is cleft by the majestic snow dome of Mount llainier. In the west and northwest lie the long Olympic ranges, also snow topped. No town on the Sound com- mands such sunrises and sunsets on snowy peaks and stretches of sea. "We reached Tacoma at five o'clock in the afternoon. Mount Rainier then was solid white. It loomed up like a citadel of ice nearly three miles high in the air. In less than an hour it had turned from solid white to solid gold. The process seemed preternatural. In many years' familiar knowh^lge of all the wonders which sunrise and sunset can work on jicaks in the Rocky Moun- tain ranges, I had never seen any such ell'ect. It was as if the color came from within, and not from without ; as if tiie mighty bulwark were being gradually heated from central fires. Still more slowly than it had changed from snow white to gleaming gold, it changed again from the gleaming gold to a luminous red, like that of live co;;ls. This fiery glow was broken, here and there, by ir- regular spaces of a vivid dark wine col- or, wherever rocky ledges cropped out. The siiectacle was so solemn that it was impossii)le to divest one's self of a cer- tain sense of awe. The glow grew hot- ter and hotter, until it seemed as if fire must burst from it. Tlie whole moun- tain seemed translucent and quivering with heat. The loui; northein t A'ilii;hL deepened, but the mountain did not change, unless it were to burn even more fierily in the dimmer light. At last pale ember tints bt>gan to creep upward from the base of the peaks, very slowly, — as a burning coal cools when it falls into a bed of warm ashes. These tints grew gray, blue, and finally faded into the true ashy tint of cold embers ; gradually they spread over the whole surface of the mountain. At the top, a fiicker of the red liufjered louij, heiiihteniuii still more the suggestion of slowly cool- ing fires. Tlie otitcropping ledges faded from their vivid wine color to a pale blue, the exact shade of shadows on dead embers ; and this also heightened the pallor of the ashy tiut on the rest of the mountain. Two brigs lay at anchor in the Taco- ma harbor. Their every mast and spar and rope stood out as if etched on tlio cold yellow sky i-i the north. As our boat glided out into the silent, dusky vistas of forest and sea, in the deepen- in«>- darkness, this network of crossinfj and countercrossing lines on the sky seemed to have mysterious significance, as if they might belong to a system of preternatural triangidation ; wrought by powers of the air, whose colossal beacon we had just seen extinguished. Next morning, at four o'clock, from our stateroom windows (this jdural should be emphasized ; for there are not to be found on many waters steam- boats which contain staterooms with two windows and double beds, such as are to be found on Puget Sound), — next mmM WtMiMBWi^iig II i»iHi>ii ^\'l)r uar^' .r> 1883.] Pvget Sound. 221 This fit'ry I'i'c, l)y ir- wiiio col- •Pl"'il out. i.it it was of a cer- .i,M-e\v liot- iis if fire >le moiiii- quiveriii(^ 1 t .vilii;lii, (lid not ivc'ii more last pale rt'anl fi'Din iwly, — as alls into a ints g\-e\y into the gradually surface of a flicker ii^htcninfr pwly cool- Iges faded to a pale idows on ei,<,diteued ri the rest tlie Taco- ; and spar tid on the As our lit, dusky 3 decpen- cros.sinnf the sky nificaiice, system of ■ought by il beacon >ck, from s ])lural here are r.s sleam- with two Il as are , — next morning, from our stateroom windows, at four o'clock, we looked out on one of the cliaraeteristic Puget Sound pictures. It glided past, changing each second: terraces and peaks of mountain and cloud ; 'viber against a pale green sky; domes and lines of dark fir fon.'st, a hair line of gold ediring each one to the east ; here and there a roof or a chira- iiev among the trees ; wooded islands sailing into and out of sight in a twin- kliiig, their shadows trailing pur|)le on the water ; a cluster of white houses close on the shore ; boats drawn up ; the tide out, aiul a stretch of shingle sparkling wet ; a bi^ach wall of tall lirs a few rods back ; a boat ijulling over from another dusky shore, opposite and near; sun's rays stealing uj) ahead of the sun, flashing on the boatman's oars and lighting up every window in the liamlet. Our boat swung round and in, and halted ; a man leaped ashore. The silence was so absolute that the com- monest act or motion seemed stealthy. As the boat backed out of the inlet, the sun rose from behind a fir foi-est, and flashed every one of the spear tops into a sort of sudden presenting of arms along the whole sky-line. It was not full sunrise yet in the inlet; but onci; out in the wider sea, we swept into broad light. In the distance a steam- boat and a brig were sailing side by side. The brig took rank with nature at once : no sign of effort about her mo- tion ; only a little curl of white water at her bows, like a quiet, satisfied chuckle. For one second her masts cut across the great dome of Mount Kainier, and reaching half-way to its top seemed sud- denly to shftot towards the sky. The whole picture, — landing, departure, dawn, sunrise, — all was over and past in less time than its telling takes. The swift beauty of these moments is only an average succession of average mo- ments of which hours are made up, when one sails on Paget Sound. Our next stop Was at Port Gamble. To i(!ach it, wo hail sailed twenty-four miles; yet by a road across the prom- ontoi'y it was only eleven miles away from our sunrisi; halting place, so much do the winding wafer roads double oii th'.'mselves. I'ort (Jamble is, like; most of the Puget Sound towns, simply a saw-mill village. It has a ])(>])ulaliou of four hundred people, every man of whom is at work in, or in connection with, the lumber-mills. The village is only a clearing in the shore side of the f( 'est: rough little houses, painted white, witii here and there a flower gar- den. On the wharf sat a handsome Indian woman. Her face was more Egyptian than Indian, and, with its level eyebrows, line nostrils, and strongly moulde<l mouth and chin, wouUl have done no discredit to a priestess on the ]S'ile. She was one of the IJritish Co- lumbia Indians ; free to come and go where she pleased. The captain of our boat knew her, and said sin; ,vas very '• well off;" her husband worked in the lumber-mills. "She's a IJritish sub- ject, you see," he added. '" There can't anybody molest her, 's long 's slie be- haves herself The IJiitish Columbia Indians are a good lot, generally." '•Yes," I replied. ''The English gov- ernment has treated its Indians bet!;(.'r than we have ours.'' " That 's so," said the captain, em- phatically. '• They don't deceive 'em, in the first place, nor plunder 'em, in the second place." The air was resonant with shrill saw- mill noises. Lurid smoke, like that from smelting- works, poured u]) from the fires. The mill itself was a deaf(Miiiig, blinding, terrifving storm of machinery: saws by dozens, upright, luMi/ontal, circular, whirring and whizzing on all sides ; great logs, sixty, a hundred feet long, being hauled up, dripping, out of the water, three at a time, by ii(,'rco clank- ing chains, slid into grooves, turned, hung, drawn, and quartered, driven from one end of the building to Uie other ooo Pugct Sound. [February, 18H" llkf! liixlitiiiiipf, — a wlioln tron sluiiyh- tcrt'd, iiiaile into phiiiks, liitlis, staves, Mocks, sli:iviii;j;s, and suwdust, in the twiiikliiiif of iui eye. One liuiHlred ami fifty thousand feet of hunber in a day are now turned out in this mill. There is a record of a year wlien, running day and nigiit, it turned out fifty-foLir million feet. Its furnaces are fed solely by its own saw- dust, automatically poured in ii. cease- less streams. But even these cannot consume half tlie sawdust made ; great piles of it, outside, are perpetually burn- ing; night and day, the fires smoulder and blaze, burning up the sawdust aiid bits of wood, but they cannot keep pace with the mill. Such waste of tons of fuel makes one's heart ache, thinkiiifj of the cities full of poor, shivering and freezing every winter. The most demoniacal thini^ in the mill was a sort of huge iron nipper, with a head whoso shape suggested some gro- tesque heathen idol. This came up at regular intd ds, a few seconds ajjurt, through an opening in the floor, opened its jaws, seized a log, and turned it over; then sank again out of sight, till the next log was ready for turning. There was a fierce and vindictive expression in the intermittent action of this autom- aton, which made it seem like a sentient and malignant demon, rather than a ma- chine. Sitting with his face sheltered be- hind a large pane of glass, which was mounted like a screen, sat a man sharj)- eniuijj saws on a big iron wheel, driven by steam. The wheel revolved so swift- ly that volleys of blazing sparks flew riiflit and left from tlie saw teeth. Per- haps nothing could give a stronger im- pression of the amount of force expend- ed in the mill than the fact that this saw sharpener and his lightning wheel never rest while the mill is going. Shutting one's eyes and listening at- tentively to the whirring din, one per- ceived myriads of tin'* upper violin notes in it, and now and then a splendid bass chord, as of a giant violoncello ; again, thuds of heavy logs would crash in among the finer metallic sounds, till the sound secimed like the outburst of a co- lossal discordant orchestra. » Outside! the mill were huge booms of loi:s floating in the water. Oiu; mi;:ht walk over acres of them. They had all come from distant forests on tlu; Somid. The mill companies are too shrewd to cut their own timber, in the vicinity of the mills, yet the company to whicli this mill belongs is said to own a ([uar- ter of •' million acres of solid forest; but at present they buy all their logs, most of them from men who cut them under the Timber Act. The wharves were lined with ships waiting to carry the lumber away. The ships themselves, many of them, had been built on the Sound, at Poi t Town- send and otlun- ports. Their masts, a hundred feet tall, without knot or blemish, had come from the same for- ests which had supplied the planks now beirg stowed ignominiously away in their holds. It was a marvelous sight to see the loading. Each ship was packed many tiers deep with lumber ; the hold filled in solid, and the deck piled high. The planks were lifted by a derrick, on the wharf, and shot down, sliding, to the deck. At the rate trees are being cut down, and lumber shipped away from this re- gion, it is a comparatively siini)le calcu- lation to reckoii how long it will take to strip the country bare. I^ngland, France, Australia. China, Japan, and even the Sandwich Islands are using Oregon and "Washington jiine and fir. The Pacific coast Of South America uses little else. Enthusiastic statisticians publish estimates of the vast amounts of standing timber ; showing, for instance, that the timber now standing in Wash- ington Territory alone is equal to the consumption of the whole United States during the last hundred years. To the ■iii4*awiairM i^M^SS Mi^ I to iw«i Ft;l)ninTy, •li'ndid buss ■Ilo ; Miraiii, cr.Msli ill mis, till (ho rsL of ii co- 1)()otn>; of Olio niii;lit licy- liiul all tli(! SoiuhI. shrewd to vicinity of Y to which )wn a qiiar- nlid forest; their loi:;s, cut them with ships jiWiiy. The tliein, had 'oit Town- leir masts, It knot or same for- [ilaiiks now r away in elons sight .sliip was h lumber; I tlie dock e lifted by shot down, cut down, m tliis re- iiplo calcu- will take England, apan, and are using le and iir. America atisticians mounts of ■ instance, in Wash- lal to the ied States . To the 188S.] Pugot SonuiJ. initliiiikiiig Amoriran tliis seems a suf- iiciciit ground for dismissing ;''] anxiety on tlie subje<;t ; and hv. does not pause to establish any connection ir. his mind between this statement and tlw; fact that the mills on Puget Sound, when all at work, have a. cutting capa^'ity of thn* liiindreil millions of feet a year, three of them cutting over a Imndrod thou- sand fe(-t a day each, and a fourth be- ing put into (londition to cut two hun- dred thousand. Americiuis are often rc[ir()!iclie(l, and justly, for their lack (f reve-ence for the past; there seems even a greater dishonor in their lack of f.eiix' of responsibility for the future. T/'aving Port (lan.iile, wo sailed straight into a cloud of silver radiances ; fog banks, sifted and shot through by sun's rays. Ceaselessly shifting and il- luniining, retriMti'ig and advancing, they ■wrapped us in a new world, almost more beautiful than that from which they shut us out. Now and then, a weird shape glideil past, wi;h warning cries : a steam- boat, or a big log boom drawn by a tug. These log booms are amoiiix the most picturesrpio features of the Sound. They are sometimes lifteeii hundred feet long and sixty wide, and contain a million feet of lumb( r. The logs, being idl barked, are yellow ami glistening; and as the boom sways and curves on the water, the whole surface of it shines like a floor of fluted gold. At Port Lu<lIow, another saw -mill town, we stopped o[)po>ite a hiigi; water tank, which stood on posts some lifteen or twenty feet high, clos(i to the shore. It was a beautiful instance of nature's readiness to adopt and beautify the barest and baldest things. This rouuh board tank, just as it stood, dripping water at every crevice, would have been ail ornament to any conservatory iu the land. Prom every joint waved grasses and vines ; they hung over, nodded and blew into tangles with each breeze. The cross-beams were covered with green moss, and from each side there hun^ out [danta ni blossom : yellow and pur- ple asters, a tall spike of red lireweed in one corner, and myriads of line white flowers whose name I did not know. l)efore ten o'clock W(^ bad reached Port Townsend. Kntering its harbor, we saileil through the fog widl as through dividing folds of curtains at a doorway. " Never a i^^^ in Port Town- send Harbor," is a saying on the Sound. The town lies on high blulTs, and a prettier village coiihl not bo found. We jumpetl ashore, took a carriage, and saw all of the town which could be seen in fifteen minutes' rapid driving. The houses are wooden, chiefly whit(% but are bowered in ros(;s and honeysuckles. The white honeysuckle is indigenous to the region and grows with a liixuriatuM! incredible to those who know it only as a cultivated exotic. It was no rare sifjht here to see a cottage with one side covered, from eaves to ground, by a matted wall of the fragrant blossoms. Port Townsend is a military post, and an air of orderly precision seems to per- vade the whole place. The oif-look t)Ver the Sound is grand : on the one hand the Olympic Mountains, and on the other, INIount Baker and its ranges; between these, countless vistas of inlet and isl- and and promontory. As we came out of the harbor, the fog stood, an amber wall, across our path. It curved outward at the mid- dle, and as we drovi; straight on into it, it seemed as if it were; l)enirui<j[ be- fore us, till it broke, and took us into its silvery centre. From Port Townsend it is a three hour'-' run, across the Straits of l)e Fuca, to Victoria on ^'ancouver's Island ; and here, at one's first step, he realizes that he is on British soil. It is strange that two peoples speaking the same language, holding in the main the same or similar beliefs, can have in their daily living so utterly dissimilar atmosph(;res as do the Americans and the English. This sharp contrast can nowhere be more 224 Pw/et Sound. 1 [Fobiiiiiry, 1883.] vividly seen tlian in ^oin;^ from Wish- niilns ; then, tuniin^' to tlio ri;,fht, tliroiiifli in^ton Territory to Viuiconvtir's I>hincl. woods thiitnK'ct (iverliciid, past (ichls lull Victoria is a town which would well re- of tossinj; fringes of brakes and thickets pay a careful study. Kven in the most of spiru'a twenty feet hii,di, he conies sud- ciii'soiy glances at it, one sees symptoms denly on another (!.\(juislto land-locked, uf r(!ticent life, a llavor of mystery and unsuspected harbor, — the E.s(piimault k'isure, backgrounds of traditionary di,:^- jiarbor, with its own little hamlet, nity and hereditary squalor, such as one Skirting around this, and bearini;' back nii^lit i,n» up and down the whole I'aci- towards the town again, by a road far- fic coast, from San Diego to Portland, ther inland, he finds that to reach the and not find. When Victoria is, as town he must cross inlet after inlet, it is sure to become, sooner or later, a Wooded, dark, silent, amber -colored, wide-known summering place, no doubt they are a very paradise for lovers of its byways and highways, its bygone rowing; or for lovers of wooing, either, ways and days, will prove mines of treas- we thought, as we came again and again ure to the imagination of some dreaming on a tiny craft, in which two sat with st(jry-telh;r. The business i)art of the idle oars. At other times, as we were town, if one may be pardoned such a mis- crossing some picturesque stone bridge, nomer in speaking of its sleepy streets, a pleasure barge, with gay flags Hying, is rul)l)ishy and littered. The buildings and young men and maidens singing, are slial)I»y, unadorned, with no pretense would shoot out from under it, and dis- of design or harmony. They remind appear around a leafy corner. From one of the inferior [)ortions of second- every higher ground we could see the class commercial towns in England, and majestic wall of the Olympic range the men and women in the shops, on rising in the south. The day will come doorsteps, and in alley-ways look as if when some painter will win fame for they might have just come from Hull, himself by painting this range as seen But once outside this part of the town, from Victoria: a solid wall of tunpioiso all is changed : delightful, picturesque blue, with its sky-line fretted and tur- s ; gn'at meadow spaces full of retted in silver snow, rising abru{)t and .s ; knolls of mossy bowlders; old perpendicular out of a dark green and trees swathed in ivy ; cottages buried purple sea. I do not know any mouu- in roses and honey-suckle ; comfortable tain range so beautiful or so grandly set. houses, with lawns and hedges, sun-dials Often its base is wrapped in white irists, and (plaint weatlier- vanes; castle-like which look as if they were crystallized houses of stone, with lodges and high in ripples and ridges, like a field of ice walls and driveways ; and, to complete floes. Rising out of these, the blue wall the picture, sauntering down the lanes, and snowy summits seem lifted into the or driving at stately paces along the per- skies ; to have no connecfjou with earth feet roads, nonchalant men and leisurely except by the ice-floe belt, women, whose nonchalance and leisure Turning one's back on the sea, and could not be outdone or outstared in driving northward from the town, one Ilyde Park. finds a totally new country and expres- At every turn is a new view of the sion : little farms of grazing or grain sea, or a sudden glimpse of some half- fields, the oats and wheat struggling in hidden inlet or bay. These bursts and a hand-to-hand fight with the splendid, surprises of beautiful bits of water are triumphant brakes; stretches of forest the greatest charm of the place. Driving so thick their depths are black, and the westward from the town one has the su- tree-tops meet above the road. Except perb Koyal Heads harbor on the left for for occasional glimpses of blue water on the sea nil Farnic in pri from t in tlie of till! close, left, ( scurity mor(! one o foie-t, a uati' seen o trail, drew I over I lows <> till w chiinii rods !i knnll, honey tage, 1 a mon right up int pause Olymj POUtll of W( far a nior(^ Jitmtt JhMk III i«h> Fobruiiry, I8H0.] Puget Sound. 225 'it, tlir()l|(_rll stncMsfilii tiid tliickc'ts comos Slid- ainl-lockcrl, Iv><|iiiiiiaiilt luiinlcf. iiriiii;' hack 1 road far- reach tho after iiilut. cr- colored, r lovers of iiiff, ('ither, 1 and a^fain o sat witli IS we wfro )ne hridife, ag.s (lying, IS siiitfing, it, and dis- er. From dd see the ipie range ^ will come I fame for ge as seen f turtjuoiso d and tiir- iibrupt and green and any mouu- randly set. liite rcists, rystallized ield of ice ! hi lie wall id into tho with earth 5 sea, and town, cue id expres- : or grain iggliiig iu sidendid, of forest c, and the Except ue water on the right, it would sooin as if tiie Kca iniHt he hiiiidnds of miles away. I-'armcrs working in ticlds, or driving ill piiinilivi! carts, look as rciniivcd from tlir (.'ari'h'ss, .slatlci'iily shop people in the (own as from the geiilleinen folks of the stone castles or the cathedral . close. Woiid roails turn off to right and left, (lisippearliig at oiiee in such oh- sciirity of shadow that they seem little more than cavt: openings. We followe<l one of them through miles of tunneled forest, till it was suddenly stop[)e<l hy a gate, heyoml which all that could he seen of road seemed little more than a trail. 'V\\{\ lure of an unknown road drew us irresistil)ly, and we pushed on, over howldti's, through spicy, dark hol- lows of 111' foi-esl. winding and climhing, till we saw [hrouv,h the tj'ces a low chimney and a gleam of sea. A few rods moie, and we came out on a rocky kiinll, where, ill a thicket of trees and hoiu ysui-khs and roses, stood a tiny cot- tage, looking out on a sea view which a moiKuvli might have coveted: on the right hand, :i wooded cove, running far up into the forest; in front, a hroad ex- panse of lilue water, with the great Olympic range rising out of it in the south distanci; ; on the left, a shore lino of wooded points and promontories, as far as the eve could reach, iirowing inor(> and nioie dusky, till they melted into the hazyhlueof the Cascade range. It was a Scotch slu^ep i'arnu»r, who had sptiirod ahont till he found for him- self this (lelectal)le nook. lie had four hundred sheep on the place, and made a living for himself, wife, and four chil- dren hy selling mutton, wool, and now and then lamhs. The sea hroughl to him all the fi-h his family could eat, and ho h.ad at his back miles of fir forest for fuel. It was never cold in winter, and never hot in summer, he said ; and the glossy leaves of a manzanita copse on the crest of his rocky knoll bore witness to the truth of his words. A short dis- tance from shore, just in front of the VOL. Ll. — NO. 304. 15 house, lay oiMi small island, as if moored. On it was a curious structure of weather- heati'U hoards, half house, half platform. It was an Indian burial-place. The farm- er said the Indians came there, often from a great distance, bringing; their dead for burial. They came in Meets of canoes, singing and chanting. Si)me of the bodies Were huried in graves, hut chiefs and distinguished warriors were wrapped in their l)lank(!ts, and laid upon shelves in the house. 1I(! had olUni been tempted, he said, to go over and examine tlui place ; but he thought " may he the In<lians would n't like it," and not one of his family had tiver set foot on tho island. All that they knew of tho spot, or of the ceremonies of the funerals taking place there, was what they had b(.'en able to see with a glass from their own shore. There coul 1 be nowhere in the world a sharper transition, in a <lay's journey, than that which we inadt; in going from Victoria to Seattle. Seattle is twenty- seven years old hy the calendar, but hy record of actual life only six, so that it has all the bustle and stir of a new American town. One can fancy a Vic- toria cltiz(!n being stunned an<l bewil- dered on landing at Seattle. Its six thousand people are all aswarm ; streets being graded, houses going up, wharves building, steamers loading with coal, and yet blackberry vines, stumps, and wild brakes are to he seen in half tho streets. The town lies on and among high terraces, rising steeply from the shores of the Sound. It fronts west, and has on its distant western fiorizon the same grand Olympic Mountains whicli Vic- toria sees to the south. iJetween it and them stretch zigzag shores, wooded to the water's edge, and broken by high cliffs and bold promontories. It is rich in other waters, also, having behind it, only two miles away. Union Lake, eight miles long and two wide, connected by a portage of six hundred feet with Washington Lake, which is twenty-eight i U\ 220 J^lll/cf Sound. [VAn-iuwy, j^^;^ mill's loni:j and from two to tun wide. Tlu'sii lakes uns surrouiKUul hy wooilod uphiiuls (iT <s,iHu\ soil. Wlitiii SciUtlo is ii rich comiiK'iciul city, a tfjriniiius ot tlio Northern I'iicilii; IJailruail. thuso uplaiwls will 1)1! th<! place where SeatlUi lor- tuiios will bo spout in Imildiii^ villas. Already land on theso t'orost ritli^os com- mands lifti'eii hundred dollars an acre ; and the chai'ter is granted for a horse- car route, many miles out into what is now unbroken wilderiuuss. Seattle has a nniversity, with three hundred pupils, boys iuid twirls ; and a (,'atholic hospital, to which our driver paid a warm tribute, exclaiinin;^', " Those Catholic sisters are the women I want to have take care ol me when I 'm sick. They take cart; of everybody all alike. If a fellow 's got money, he must pay ; but if he has n't got a cent, they '11 take just as good care of him, all the same." A large part of the present and pro- s|)ective wealth of Seattle is in coal mines. The principal ones lie twenty miles southeast of the town, in the aj)- propriately named village of Newcas- tle, to which a narrow-gauge railroad runs out, through a lane of wild syrin- ga, spira;a, black aldci, pines and iirs. It was like a long gallery of Corots : no tops of trees to be seen, but myri- ads of vistas of drooping branches and folds of foliage. Linnea vines hung in wreaths and white clover in drifts over the edges and sides of the railroad cuts ; so troi)ical a luxuriance of growth comes even in these northern, latitudes from their solid half year of rain. " It docs n't really rain all the time, does it?" I said to a discontented New- castle woman, who had been complain- ing of the wet winters. " Well, if you was to see me hang- ing out my clo'es Monday morning, an' waitin' till Saturday for 'era to dry, an' then takin' 'em in an' dryin' 'em by the fire, I guess you 'd think it rained about all the time," she replied resentfully. " I 've lived here goiu' on five years, an' I hain't t'vc.r dried a week's wash out-of- doors in tho wint(!r timt! yet, an' 1 'm sick on 't. To bo sure, yon cun't ever say it's cold. That 's one comfort." N(!wcasile is a grimy huddle of huts on the sides of a pocket of hillside jiutl forest : huts above huts ; stumps above sttnnps ; handfuls of green grass among patches of ro(;ks ; bits of palings ; kd)y rinths of goat paths from hut to hut ; strips of stairways here and tlierc;, to the houses of the more andiitious ; wooden chimneys of rough planks built aslant against the houses' outsidt! walls ; coal heaps; hea[)S of refuse; black(!ui!d car> di'awn by mides ; miners running hilher and yon, sooty as imps, (iach with a lurid fiame burning in a tin tub(! on his cap visor, — th(! sciaie was weird and hor- rible. A small white clia[)el stood on oni; of the highest ridges: it took a stairway of twenty-two stejis to reach it, but the bottom stair was above most of the chimneys of the village. I sat down on this staircase and looki'd with dismay over the place. Presently there came hobbling by an old woman, leaning on a cane ; with her, an agile, evil-fac. 1 little boy. who was evidently kept by her side much against his will. I did not need to hear her speak to know that she was English. English scjualor, especially if it have once been respectability, is even more instantaneously recognizable than English finery : carpet shoes ; a dingy calico gown ; a red knit shawl ; a black velvet bonnet, a score of years old, the crown shirred in sipiares and gray with dust ; a draggled feather atop of still more draggled and rusty lace ; in the front a velvet braid, of three separate shades of brown which had once been red ; a burnt-out old frizette of brown hair, — all this above a i)itiful aged face, bright hazel eyes, full of nervous irritability and wan sorrow. It was long since I had seen such a study. A glance was all the invitation she needed to sit down by my side, and be- gin to pour out her tale. She had come 1 .^*»..«IJfc.<J».J>*«l» ■Il'l1»l*il»ll>il [Fi'l.iuai-y, j^y.^^ Piiget Sound. no 27 '■< U.isll (Mlt-of- y»-t. nil' ] 'ii, /oil <;iii't ever ' fiiiiilort." iid'lli! of hilts 'I' llillsido ;iti(| ■■stumps ahovi' I yiiiss iunoii^' l»iiliii;,'s; kil)y 1 liiiL lo lull ; <l tlmro, to tlic ions ; wooden Iniilt aslant Willis ; eoal )liU'k(!iie(l eats iiiiiiiiii; liitlicr li wiili a lurid 'x' on his cup i'ii<l and Jior- .stood on on(! ok a stairway -ii it, hut tlu! most of till' I sat, down on Willi dismay \y there eanie I, loaning on a vil-l'ac'.d little pt hy her side Ji<l not need ' that she was ', especially it bility, is even ^nlzahle than IOCS ; a dingy lawl ; a black years old, tlu' lud gray with atop of still lace ; in the wee separate id once been tte of brown ])itiful aged .1 of nervous It was louii' ivitation she side, and be- lie iiad come up to Newcastle from Tieiifon. for her •' '.•1th." " And how far is Iveiiton ? '' " Willi, ye 'II coaiii from lu'iilon to this for forty cents." I was struck by the novelty of this niiithod of I'slimating distance. The rich rc'-kon it by hours ; the poor, it seems, l)y cents. She was horn in Staffordshire, Kng- laiid. where s\w lived till she was forty years old. Her first husband was a (jol- lier. " Ke was a vary 'eavy num. An' he niadi! too nnich blood. For five years 'ee was a inakkin too nuush blood ; an' tin; do(!tors said it 'u'd be good for 'im to go to America. KIse I 'd nevijr have gone. 'T was for that I brought 'im. 1 did not tart till I was turned forty. Oh, I 've 'ad troubles ! Ay, the oops and downs in this life! Ye doaii know what ve "II live through with. " I lost live children a-cuttin' teeth, a ruiiiiiir, at fourteen months each ; an' then their father was killed, too, ai ' that wiis worse than the children. '* It was agcn all my prayers that 'oe went in the mine that day. I 'd a bad dream : an' I said to 'im, Now I 've 'ad a dream ; an' if ye go in the mine 't 'uU be yrair grave ye goin' into ; an' afore ni^ht h(! was deatl. There was nineteen others killed, too. It was a coal mine ; a slaughter mine, — that 's what it was, by rights." This was in Virginia ; in the coal mines in the southern part of the State. She soon married again, and with li»!r second husband was keeping a country store, and earning money fast, when, only three inonths before the war broke out, their store burned down, without insurance. " We wa'n't like a many folks," she said, "not pay'.n' our debts because we was burned out. We paid up every dollar we owed, an' had enough money 'eft to take us back to England for a visit. I was n't ever afraid o' my hands. I was as liberal to work as if it was to airn a fortune. T wai always a singin' to my work like a JiartiiiLiale." When they relumed to America they joined a party of l''ii;_di^li emigrants to N'ancouver's Islaiiil. and her husband went into the mines there. I'mt misfor- tune did not i|iiii its hold of her. In an accident in a mine, her husband was in- juicd liy falling beams, so that ho could never again do heavy work, and all of her childfeii died exi-ept the youngest. *' There 's a great pleasiirt; with hav- ing children," (>he said, '* an' there 's a great trouble to lose '(in ; but I 've lived to thank the Lord that he took mine as he did. It's a wicked world (ov 'em tf^ coam through. There was three men was lynched down at Seattle last week. It's trew they 'd done a murder; but I think they s'u'd 'a' 'ad tin; riglit o' the good law. When 1 lieere(l it, it made me sick. I was a-thiiikin' they'd got mothers, mabbe, "an if a woman was to 'ear that she 'd a child to be lynched tliat way, it 'u'd be the tinishin' of her; an 'art-breakin' thing, to l)e sure." She rambled on and on, with such breaks in her narrative, in time and se- quence, that it wa* almost incoherent ; every now smd then she would sink into half soliloquy, with a recurrence of ejaculations, as if she were li(!r own (h'eek chorus. Her ''Ay, ay, I 've 'ad troubles," reminded me of Carlyle's too late, poignant " Ay, de' me." S!k! is seventy-three years old. Her husband is seventy-nine. He earns two dollars a day in a mine. "Ah," said I cheerfully. "That gives you sixty dollars a month. That is a comfortable Income." '* Na I na ! " she said sharply, — '' na sixty dollars; there 's but six days to the week. There 's nobody belonging to me 'all do Sunday work. Sunday work *s no good. No luck comes o' Sunday work," and she gazed sternly up at the sky as she reiterated the words. " I *m o' the "Wesleyaus," slie continued, half defiantly. I ,^.. 228 'li Puget Sound. [February, 1883. " That is a very good religion," I re- plied, in a conciliiitory voic(;. " You bet it is ! " she exclaimed with sudden vivacity, — " you bet it is! If you do as they say, you '11 he all right." When I bade her good-by, she sighed heavily, and said, — " Well, good-day to ye. I wish ye luck, wh.ere 's' ever ye 're goiu'. I ex- pect ye 've a deal o' [)leasure in yer life, but it 's a hard world to coam through before yer done with it;" aud with a petulant, unsmiling uod she turned away. In Carbonado, another colliery vil- lage on the Sound, thirty miles south of Tacoma, we found the same grimy des- olation as in Newcastle. Blackened stumps, half-burnt logs, bowlders, piles of waste rubbish, met one at every turn. But there was an expression of cheer and life in the place ; and huge play- bills, all over tlie town, announcing an entertainment by the " Carbonado 3Iin- strel Club," gave evidence of an aston- ishing knack at miithfulness under dif- ficulties. The programme was a droll one ; a first and second part, with or- chestra overtures before and between, a "conversationalist in the centre" — whatever that may moan, — an "open- ing chorus," a farce at the end, and Professor John Brenner's string band, to be " engaged for dancing after the performance at reasonable rates." " Shouting Extraordinary," by Char- lie Poole, and a " comic song. Baby 's got the Cramp, by Dan Davis," were among the attractions of the second part of the entertainment ; the price of admission, fifty cents for adults and half price for children. We had run out from Tacoma to Car- bonado on a special train. As we drew near the station, I saw a girl, ten or eleven years old, racing down the hill at full speed, her sunbonnet flying off her head. As we stepped out of our box car, she looked ut us with supreme con- tempt. "Well, I did get fooled!" she ex- claimed. " I thought you was the mail ! " Her curiosity ar^ to our errand in Car. bonado was great, and took expression in an exuberant hospitality. " Why did n't you come up to see us Friday ? " she said. " We 're going to have a review in school Friday, and spell down. We speller! down last Fri- day, too." " Did you beat the whole school ? " I asked. " No. Si Hopkins, he spelled the word, — spelled me down. Teacher's going to spell the vvliole school down next time on a new word, — shoddish." " Shoddish ! " I exclaimed. " There is not any such word in the English language." "There is too!" she replied daunt- lessly. " I 've got it written down, but I can't learn it to save me. It's a kind o' dance, or something o' that sort." " Oil ! Schottisch," I said. "Yes, that 'sit," she nodded: "it's the name of a dance. Tc^acher 's seen it, she says. I know 1 '11 get spelled down on it, though : it 's a real mean word to spell. There ain't any sense in it. I '11 take you up to the school, to see teacher," she added eagerly. " Siie '11 be real glad to see you. She just let me run down to the train when we heard the whistle. We thouglit 't was the mail. That 's Battle How,"' she continued, pointing to a soi't of alley of board shanties, evidently chiefly drink- ing saloons. "There's a fight there every day, most. We don't go down there, any of us, if we can help it. I 'd be ashamed to live anywhere near there. It's just rightly named. My mother says she 'd like to see it burned down any night. We did like to all burn up here, three weeks ago. Did you h^ar about it? Well, it was just awful. We had all the things out o' onr house ; aid lots o' the neighbors did, too. The fire ain't there, Thi bhiel let. seeme dange as a wher( ^wn-ittoitiiiiO Ill I I M iilii > I K I ^^ A [February, id ! " she ex- '011 was the rriiiid in Car. k expression le up to see We 're going Friday, and own last Fri- ale sclioo] ? " spelled the Teacher 's school down -shoddish." ed. " There the English plied daiint- 311 down, hilt nie. It's a tii'g o' that 1. dded : " it 's acher 's seen get spelled I real mean t any sense lie school, to •ly. "She'll 5he jiist let II when we 'light 't was How,"' she ; of Mlley of ietly drink- 'ight there t go down ■Ip it. I'd near there. ^ly mother nied down dl hnrn up ' yon h"ar wful. We ouse; md The fire 1883.] Pur/et Sound. 229 aiu't out yet. You can see it smoking there, in the edge of the timber." This, then, explained a part of the blackened desolateness of the little ham- le<. The wall of lir forests which had seemed its protection had proved its dire danger. A belt of charred trees, gaunt as a forest of ebony masts, showed where ilie fires had blazed along, and couK! near sweeping away the village. " It was well the wind went down when it did," the little maid continued sagely. "I expect if it hadn't, you would n't have found any of us here. It was just as hot's anything, all round; an' you could n't get your breath." Looking around, one realized the ter- rible daiig<ir of forest lires in such a sj)ot. The little village was walled on three sid(;s by a forest of firs and cedars, from one hundred to three hundred feet high ; and we had come through miles of such forests, so dense tlnit only a few feet back from their outer edge the shade became darkness impenetra- ble by the eye. There is a sombre splendor about these dark forests of giant trees, which it would be hard to analyze, and impossible to render by any art. Language and color alike fall short of expressing it. The school was in a rouiih boarded room which had been originally built for a store. The hats, bonnets, books, and slates wen; piled on the shelves, and the ihiriy children sat on high benches, their feet swinging clear of the lloor. There was not a robust or healthy- faced child in tlie room, and their thin, })ah' che( ks were a sad conunentary on the conditions of their Ii\es. Later in the day, as I walked from home to home, and saw everywhere slow-trick- ling streams of filthy water, blue, iriiles- cent, and foul odored, 1 wondered not that the children were pale, but that they were alive. The history class was reciting a memorized list of *' epochs," when I went in. They had them at their tongues' ends. I suggested to the teacher to asK them wliat the word "epoch "mean; Blank dismay spread over their faces. One girl alone made answer. She was an Indian, or perhaps half-breed, fourteen years of age ; the healthiest child and the best scholar in the school, the teacher said. '• The time between," was her prompt defini- tion of the word epoch, given with a twinkle in her eye of evident amuse- ment that the rest did not know what it meant. The first class in reading, then read from the Fourth In(lei»endent Reader, in stentorian voices, Trow- bridge's poem of The Wonderful Sack. The effect of slight changes of a single letter here and there was most ludicrous- ly illustrated by one sturdy little chap's delivery of the lines, " His limbs wero strong, His beard was long." With loud and enthusiastic emphasis he read them, " His lambs were strong, His bread was long." Not a member of the class changed countenance, or gave any sign of disa- greeing with his interpretation of the text ; and the teacher, being eng;iged in herculean efforts to keep the poor little primary bench still, failed to hear the lines. As soon as school was out, most of the children went to work carrying wa- ter. The only water in the village is in a huge tank behind the engine-house. From this each family nmst draw its supply. It was sad to see children not over six or seven years old lu!jr<:ing a heavy |)ail of water in each hand. '• I 've got all the wash-water to carry this afternoon." said my little guide; '' so I 've got to be excused from school. jMy mother did n't wash to day, because she wa'n't well. Most always we get the wash-water Sundays." '• You '11 be sure to <ro down the in- clinc!, won't you," she added; " tliat 's splendid. I 'd just like to go up an' down iu that car all the time. It 'a ■Y-MjifrMriiBia ■M 1^ til II i< 1 230 Puget Sound. [February, the nicest thing here. I expect that 's what you all came for, wa'n't it ? There 's lots o' folks come out from Tacoma just to go down in it. There ain't another like it in the whole country," she added, with a superb complacence. " You be sure an' go down, now.'-' It was indeed a fine shoot down, on a nearly perpendicular steel-railed track, over a thousand feet, to the bed of the river, on the banks of which are the openings of the mines. Tlie coal is drawn, and the miners go up a:id down in cars, on tliis seemingly jierilous track. There is no other way down. The river is a glacial stream, and dashes along, milky white, between its steep banks. On the nai'row shore rims is a railway, along which cars are drawn by mules, from mine to mine, crossing the river back and forth. In a distance of some three or four miles, there are a dozen galleries and shafts. The supply of coal is supposed to be inexhaustible ; a most convenient thiiig for the Central Pacific Railroad, which owns it. It was a weird ride at bottom of this chasm : the upper edges lined thick with firs and cedars ; the sides covered with mosses and ferns and myriads of shrubs, red columbines and white spirjeas, with blossom plumes a foot and a half long, — everything dripping and sparkling with the river foam and the moisture from innumerable springs in the rocks. Bob, the handsome mule that drew us over the road, deserves a line of history. He has spent three years jogging up and down this river bed. His skin is like brown satin, and his eyes are bright ; he knows more than any other mule in the world the miners think. He knows all their dinner pails by sight, and can tell which pails have pie in them. Pie is the only one of human foods which Hob likes. Hide their din- ner pails as they may, the miners cannot keep pic away from Bob, if he is left loose. "He '11 go through a row o' din- ner pails in a jilfy, and jest clean out every speck o' pie there is th6re ; an' he won't touch another thing, sir," said his driver with fond pride. The Carbonado picture I shall remem- ber longest is of a little five-year-old mother ; just five, the oldest of four. 8he sat in a low rocking-chair, holding her three months' old sister, looking down into her face : cooing to her, chucking her under the chin, laughing with delight, and exulting at each re- sponse the baby made. " I caa't hardly get the baby out of h(!r arras," said the mother. " She 's always been that way, ever since she was born. She takes care of all three o' the others. I don't know what I 'd ever ha' done without her. She don't seem to want anything else, if she can just get to hold the baby." "Oh, look at her ! look at her ! " ex- claimed the child, pointing to the baby's face, over which a vague smile was Hit- ting. " I just did so to her" (making a little comic grimace), " and she lauglied back ! She really did, just like we do." After all, values in human life are the same ; conditions make less differ- ence than we think, and much of tli(! pity we spend on Newcastles a;.d Car bonados is wasted. I am not sure that I have ever seen on any child's face such a look of rapturous delight as on this little »nother's ; and I make no doubt that if we could have stayed to hear Charlie Poole's Shouting Extraordina- ry at the minstrel club's entertainment we should have seen an audience as heartily gay as any at the best show Paris could offer. Our last Puget Sound day wns made memorable by the sight of a sunrise on Mount Rainier. At quarter before four o'clock the distant south horizon of Ta- coma was shut out by walls of rose-col- ored clouds. These presently opened, floated off, and disclosed IMount Rainier, its eastern slope rose red, its western pale blue. One white cloud lingered at tlie summit, blowing like a pennant, to l\ic .,lt-w— ~A«" [February, th6re ; au' he sir," said his r shall remeio- five-year-old dest of four. dvdir, holding star, looking oing to her, liin, laugliing ; at each re- hab}' out of ir. '' She 's '^er since she s of all three j\v wliat I 'd '. Slui don't e, if she can at her ! " ex- to the baby's mile was liit- (making a she laughed like we do.'" man life are 3 less differ- much of th(! es a;.d Car- t sure that I I's face such t as on this i-e no doubt yed to hear Extraordina- itertainment audience as I best show ,,e west, the to.oro«cha^g|;a-fl. Streamed blowiy ^^^^ again, a» "'« '^> » J,^ ,„„.g„s of yellower; next, tl mx. ?.''l--.°'^"t:t.tt lines were eoi„...g by s^ . "^ , were black »'. "'S*" ' , ''° „,.., then water, lir^t s.lver.y, u, j > great eolmnn o£ 1 gh> ^' ^^^^^ o„ t"'-" !;:''"!: ie mountain turned the instant, uu N% ;,, .vissive, as e„„r, „.• the l-'^f ;_'-;„, Maimer Tlu; Indian namt oi ^., Tacoma: meaning, according to was lacuiua ^^ nrrorduvTf to .nmP " snow mountain ; accoruu „ ^^ some,, snov ^^ ^^ ^^^^^ j^^^j, others, " heart "^^ ' "[ .^^„^ ^he clum- Kngh.h P^^^^ ^,,,,thy of the ,dea, and a senti ^^^.^^^ j,^^-,,,, TTirt^tme to abandon the uature. It ^^ a ^ ^ ^^^ ^^ a name. Retaining ^ tor th ^^_^^^^ «mall atonement tor steauu„ '"'""-'^•'"- .Sh.rt:rr:rs "*'f:i;:\::« however worthy, '°':'tK::::;^w::::n!:r,:;wn.any spired by pottiy w moreover, -"r""r;;i::re wwciUoon,wiu re',ro/:r:c: that has died at our hands. ^. ff. ly wns made a sunrise on before four •izon of Ta- of rose-col- tly opened, Lint Rainier, its western lingered at penuant, to m i« j yiij y v wfH-n^-,