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//I

HAND BOOK

NEW BRUNSWICK

(CANAUA).

ISSUED EY THE AUTHORITY OF THE

CROWN LAND DEPx\RTMENT,

Hon. a. T. Dunn, Surveyor General.

V-

PREPARED BY

-v^

M:iCK:ixrjOL]sr. /S 7 ? —

IQOO.

FREDERICTON, NEW BRUNSWICK.
DOMINION OF CANADA.

! i

( !l

CONTENTS.

The Province of New Brunswick

Dairying in New Brunswick . . . . . . *

Agriculture in New Brunswick

New Brunswick as a Game Country. .

The City of St. John, N. H.

The Kennebecasis Valley . .

The Provincial Dairy School

The St. John River Valley and the Valleys of its Tributaries. .

Queens County

Sunbury County

York County

Carleton County . .

Apple Raising in Carleton County . .

Victoria County

Casual Description of the Restigouche River, from the mouth

of the Wagan River to Campbellton . .
The Eastern Slope, including the Counties of Gloucester, Nor-

thumberland and Kent
Northumberland County
Kent County

Westmorland and Albert Counti ;s . .
Distribution of Population . .
Moncton . .
Albert County

Description of Tantramar and other Marshes in ihe region

of the Bay of Fundy . .
Charlotte County . .

Government (The Dominion) , , '[ "

Education

Means of Communication
Minerals . .
The Forest
The Fisheries
The Judiciary of New Brunswick

Page
7
'3
'S
34
41
47
58
65
73
86

87
93
96

100

107

167
178
19a
194
201
203
205

209
214

a'S
223

225
231
236
242
244

^ ■i

PREFACE.

To undertake a description of the Province, which
should be authorativc and j«-ive the various economic par-
ticulars as they should be f,nven, would involve a consider-
able amount of labour and time. This, in the present work,
I have been unable to give. When, at the request of the
Provincial Government, I undertook to write a description
of the Province, I was busily engaged in preparing to lecture
in Great F^ritain on the resources of the country, and my time
was most limited. I was therefore only able to devote a
rortion of my time during some three weei s to di -iting the
lae following description, and from the method of preparing
it, it must necessarily be inferred that the work is far from as
full as I should care to make it. The facts are, however, I
believe, correct in as far as they go, and have been adduced,
for the most part, from personal observation — anything that
has been quoted having been credited to its proper source at
the time. The works which I have referred to ir; the course
of the preparation are: "A Hand-book of Information for
Immigrants to New Brunswick," by M. H. Perley, Esq.,
London, 1857. "Province of New Brunswick, its Resources,
Advantages and Progress," by Charles H. Lugrin, published
by authority of the Legislature, 1886. "A report on the
Agricultural Capabilities of the Province," by J. F. W.
Johnson, F. R. S., etc., Fredericton, 1850, "The Miner^^l
Resources of the Province ot Ne v Brunswick," by L. W.
Bailey, Ph. D., LL. D., F. R. S. C, Ottawa, 1899. "Gun
and Rod in New Brunswick," by W. K. Reynolds, and D.
G. Smith, F'ishery Commissioner for New Brunswick; and
"St. John, New Brunswick, as a Canadian Winter Port,"
by a Committee of the Board of Trade, St. John» 1898.

W, Albert Hickman.

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THE PROVINCE

NEW BRUNSWICK.

The Province of New Brunswick, the largest of the
Maritime Provinces of Canada, has an area of approximately
28,200 square miles — something over 17,000.000 acres. The
Maritime Provinces of Canada occupy a position which is a
peculiarly favored one, with regard to its relation to the
Empire and its interests as a whole. They are situated
nearer to the mother country than any very considerable
food-producing area in the Empire. They constitute the
eastern-most portion of the most important of the British
colonies. Through them lie the natural path of the vast
absolutely incalculable stores of wealth of the Dominion of
Canada to the United Kingdom. If these Maritime Provinces
\vere mcapable of producing any ot the things required in the
mother country, they would necessarily derive their greatest
importance from the fact that they lav in the path of the
produce of Canada further west. This, however, is far from
benig the case. Though the fact is vet to a great extent
unappreciated abroad, it remains as a fact that no equal
section of country in the world has more resources and more
advantages from every point of view than do these same
Maritime Provinces; and in the greatest measure is this true
o New Brunswick, the largest and most resourceful of them
all. New Brunswick, half as large again in area as Nova
i>cotia, is roughly quadrilateral in forn;, and is bounded as

follows:— On the west and southwest by Maine, one of the
United States of America; on the north by the Province of
Quebec and the Bale de Chaleur, a portion of the Gulf of St.
Lawrence; on the east by an open portion of the same Gulf
and turther south Northumberland Straits, and on the south
by the Province of Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy.
Situated as New Brunswick is with relation to the British
Empire, she occupies a position with regard to the home
land, of which the importance can only be estimated by the full
knowledge of the resources and peculiarities of this magnifi-
cent province. No country in the world is more blessed with
natural advantages than is this. To go still further, I have
yet to learn, as far as I am personally concerned, of a sectiom
that possesses from every point of view advantages which
equal those of this province. On the north, east and south
He magnificent harbors. On the east and north rolls the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, teeming with fish and not subject to
sudden storms. The southern shore is washed by that
wonderful body of water, the Bay of Fundy, the physio-
graphical peculiarities of which are sufficient to give the
country an interest which it could obtain in no other way.
It is a country of complicated and elaborate internal water-
ways which penetrate to every portion of the province and
present all the advantages that pure water always give a
country, both for economic and more sentimental reasons;
blessed with a soil more fertile than the greater portion o4
the lands surrounding, the water-ways tend enormously to
enhance the value of this feature by laying down thousands of
acres of alluvial interval land along their courses. The
climate is magnificent. The summers for the most part clear
and cool and the winters cold, bracing and, especially in the
interior, free from sudden changes. The climate is especially
favorable for the production in their best form of the most
valuable crops of the temperate zone. Di.ring the summer,
especially in the growing season there are frequent showers
occurring often at night, the time between them being for
the most part during the day one of almost uninterrupted
sunshine. The comparatively severe frosts in the winter are

far from being as might be supposed by a resident of a more
southern or a warmer climate, unmitigated evils. On the
contrary these frosts have a most valuable effect in connection
with agriculture, saving the farmer an incalculable amount
of work in the tillage of the soil. The upper layers of the
soil are so thoroughly loosened by the action of the frost,
especially as it is leaving the ground in the spring, that
ploughing becomes an operation so much easier than it
would under other circumstances, as not to entail more than
half the labor. Many an essay has been written on this
subject alone, and I could occupy much time and space in
giving some more definite idea of the value of this feature.
Of course, on the other hand, there is the danger that the-
frosts will injure the roots of fruit trees and do other damage
that may mean very considerable loss. This is very rarely
even a consideration in New Brunswick, the reason being
that before the frosts have penetrated sufficiently deep to have
done any injury, the ground becomes covered with a heavy
coating oi snow which prevents any furthur freezing below.
And here again another advantage accrues; a considerable
amount of the elements which the soil obtains usually
through the agency of the rain from the air are stored up in
the layer of the snow that sometimes lays three feet in depth
over the surface of the ground in this province, and these
elements are added to the soil suddenly as the snow melts
during ihe months of March and April, and are in a condition
to do their best work for the crop by the time that the frost
is thoroughly out of the ground and the seed sown. To give
a fair idea of the amount of sunshine in the province— and
there is no more important element that goes to make life
happier and healthier—I shall give herewith in tabular form
the report furnished to the Department of Agriculture of the
province by Thomas Harrison, L.L. B., the Chancellor of the
University of New Brunswick, showing the hours of bright
sunshine in Fredericton for each month of the year 1898, as
compared with the average amount of sunshine for each-
month of the year for the last seventeen years, these facts
being the most interestin>^

e are to expect: —

giving a better idea of what

■

Months of the Year.

January, . .
February, .
March, . . . .

April,

May,

June,

July,

August,. . .
September,
October, . .
November,
December,

Hours of Bright

Sunshine in Fred-

ericton, 1898.

Hours of Possihlc

Sunshine in FreJer-

icton, 1898.

279-33-60
287.29-60
365. 18-60
400.42-60
456.05-60
462. 12-60
466. 4 1 -60
428.50-60
370.03-60
334.39-60
281 .20-60
267.18-60

Average Hours of

Bright Sunshine

deduced fiom

the last 17 years.

••3

128

153
189
206
219
238
217
182
146

94
98

Fro 1 this Table it can be readily seen that New Bruns-
wick is, indeed, a country of sunshine. No better conception
of this can be obtained than comparing a Table of this sort
with one of the same type prepared for, for instance, Great
Britain. It will be seen that New Brunswick has nearly
twice as many hours sunshine in the year as has the mother
country. I also include below a tabular view showing the
highest, lowest and average mean temperature during each
month in the year, 1898, at Fredericton ; also the average
mean temperature during each month deduced trom twenty-
three years' observation, with the precipitation for each
month ot the year 1898 !- inches of rain and melted snow, as
compared with the average precipitation of rain and melted
snow at Fredericton for twenty-three years. It must be
noted in this connection that there would be presented very
different conditions in other portions of the Province.
Fredericton being much warmer in summer and much colder
in winter than is the case with places nearer the sea-coast.
The province is entii oly free from violent storms ot any ap-
proach to the types found throughout the western United
States, no storm ever attaining sufficient violence, excepting
under the most exceptional circumstances to do any consid-
erable damage ; nor is the province liable to the droughts

Hours ot
Sunshine
d fiom
17 years.

128

189
tob
2iq

23«

182
146

94
98

V Bruns-
nception
this sort
e, Great
s nearly
e mother
wing the
ing- each
averaj^e
twenty-
for each
snow, as
id melted
must be
ited very
Province,
ch colder
iea-coast.
»t any ap-
n United
excepting-
y consid-

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■which affect the Western and Middle States, and in some
•cases, the more Western portions of Canada. The scenery
presents an infinite variety, in some portions mighty forests
stretch from the point of observation to the horizon in every
direction. These are threaded with innumerable streams and
rivers, the forests abounding in game, large and small, and
the rivers teeming with fish. Some of the streams wind their
way through a comparatively flat country. Others move,
dark and silent, between vast hills and still others thunder
and roar down toward the sea, mere mountain torrents.
There is no very high land in the province, the highest of
the mountains being the Sagamook in Northumberland
County, 2700 feet in height. The general surface of the
country is undulating, with a moderate number of compara-
tively sharp rises. The beautiful St. John River, sometimes
(though inappropriately) called the "Rhine of America,"
winds its way for nearly five hundred miles from us extreme
head waters, the greater portion of its course lying through
New Brunswick, and empties into the splendid harbor of St.
John on the Bay of P^undy, the natural Winter Port of
Canada. The next stream of importance is the Miramichi,
emptying into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and tapping the
greatest lumbering section in Eastern Canada. Down the
valley of the St. John River and its elaborate tributaries, as
well as along the course of many minor streams, stretch
thousands upon thousands of acres of the finest interval land,
which is self-sustaining, being flooded each spring and fall
and having its fertility constantly renewed by the coating of
soil torn from the banks of the upper waters of the rivers,
which is deposited upon it twice each year. Then there are
great stretches of the best upland farming country lying over
the Upper Silurian Formation, and on the East shore of the
:province another type of land sloping down to the blue
waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence is to be found ; and here
ithe sea comes in and adds its quotum of mussel mudand sea-
weed as fertilizer ; and then around the hei"^ waters of the
Bay of Fundy, and depending on, the wonderlu tides of this
.body of water for their very existence, lie what are in many

respects the most remarkable" farming lands in the world.
The famous Tantramar and other dykeJands, valued often as
high as two hundred dollars' (forty pounds) per [acre, which
are absolutely self-sustaining requiring no further fertilizing
but that the rich silt-bearing waters of the Bay of Fundy
should be occasionaly let thtough the dykes to ebb and flow
at will over the land and deposit their rich coating of
the wonderfully fertile red mud which is peculiar of all the
headwaters of the Bay. 'As can be seen more definitely
under the head of Westmorland County, the marsh mud
which can be had in unlimited quantities Tor the hauling,
around the Bay of Fundy region, is the finer.t fertilizer that
can be applied to uplands of all types.

The industries of New Brunswick are: First and most im.
portant, farming ; second, lumbering, (I am speaking parti-
cularly of what might be called the natural industries of the
country — those depending on the natural resources.) Third,
fishing in its various branches; and fourth, the various manu-
facturing processes, including prominently the production of
pulp from the great forests ot spruce that clothe portions of
the province. Fifth in importance ranks the developnent of
the mineral resources of the country. Of these, farming is
conducted under the most suspicious circumstances. Within
the last few years, the development in farming in the Pro-
vince of New Brunswick has been simply remarkable, the
change from old methods which were unscientific to new
methods which are scientific from every point of view has
oeen exceedingly rapid. No more important branch of
farming has developed, or is developing in the country, than
dairying, for which the province is most admirably suited.
Before the year 1 89 1, practically nothing was done in that
line. Since that time great strides have been made. I pub-
lish below a valuable little description in outline of the
development of the dairying industries of the provincs. This
was prepared by Mr. Thomas A. Peters, the Deputy Com-
missioner of Agriculture, and will give some conception oi
how rapidly dairying is progressing.

DAIRYING IN NEW BRUNSWICK.

The dairyinjj industry in the Province of New Brunswick
is one of the most important to be found. The cool, moist
climate, rich, deep fertile soil watered by its numerous rivers,
streams and lakes, and its broad pastures with plenty of
shade trees seem to warrant the statement that there is no
country yet eng-aged in this occupation with so many natural
advantages for its successful operation than this country
possesses. While our summer season is not probably so
long- as- it is in provinces further west, yet we do not have to
suffer the long droughts which are prevalent in other great
dairying centres.

Dairying in this province was, I might say, only com-
menced in iSgt, and even then on a small scale, for in that
year only about one-eighth of a million pounds of cheese were
manufactured. Many difficulties arose at that time to pre-
vent a very rapid advancement. The following year hay and
grain sold for high prices, and as a result the cows in a
majority ot cases were fed on a ration of straw, the effect of
which was plainly visible the next season.

A system of Farmer's Institute meetings was established
and meetings were held all over the province, which soon
began to show their good effects. The New Brunswick
government, realizing the vast importance of the dairy indus
try, decided to offer bonuses to the extent of $150 for cheese
factories and $250 for creameries to any one who would erect
and equip these factories. Many took advantage of this-
generous offer, and in 1892 sixteen factories were in opera-
tion, making 532,000 lbs. of cheese, and two creameries witb
an output of 31,000 lbs.

Between the years 1892-95 thirty-seven new cheese
factories were established, making a total of fifty-three, witb
an output of 1,263,200 lbs.; and seven creameries were it>
operation, making 113,892 pounds of butter.

With the year 1896 came a reverse in affairs, for during
that season there was a shortage over the previous season of

one-half a million pounds of cheese and 32,000

pounds oi

— )

jar

butter. The slump was chiefly caused by the low prices-
realized for dairy products in 1895.

In 1897 we regained our old position so tar as cheese
was concerned, and a better price was realized for the output
of the factories, but the creameries did not fare so well, and
there was a still greater decrease in the make than in 1896,.
the whole output being reduced to about twenty tons. The
rate of increase from 1897 up to the present time in cheese
has been about one-half a million pounds of cheese per year,
while over three times as much butter has been made this
year than last, the total output of the season of 1890 being
2,000,000 pounds of cheese and 305,000 pounds of butter.

OUR EXPORT TRADE.

Our export trade has been steadily increasing from year
to year, as the following will show :

CHEESE.

1S94. 1895. 1896. 1897. 1S9S. 1899.

205,000 442,000 450,000 465,000 832,767 1,500,000 lbs..

1894.
40,000

BUTTER.

1895.
55,000

1899.

243.705 lbs.

Reports from across the water have been very flattering
regarding the quality of our goods, and now that we have a.
place on the Old Country market, extra efforts are beine
made by all our dairymen to hold the ground that we have
acquired, which we realize is not an easy thing to do in the
face of so many competiting countries.

WINTER DAIRY IXG.

Winter dairying was first started in New Brunswick in-
1S97, when the Department of Agriculture leased the factory
at Sussex, Kings County, and established three skimming
stations in connection therewith. A fair business was done
during the winter of 1897-8, and it was decided to operate in
the same County the following winter on a more extensive
scale.

li^'

ii'H

During; the summer of 1898 a creamery was erected in
Carleton County by private parties, and the work was con-
tinued in both Kings and Carleton Counties durinjf the winters
of 1898-9.

The quantity of butter made was g-reatly in excess of
that made the previous year, and the prospects' for this
winter are very encouraging.

It is now a dominant fact that the great industry is
fairly established, and with the co-operation of all dairymen
grand results must surely follow.

Though every advantage is offered for this industry, it
■is not'to be supposed that the province does not oflfer equal
advantages for the prosecution of other kinds of farming.
The Provincial Government has realized the fact that the
province has a great agricultural future and has made this
the key-note of the most important portion of its policy. So
valuable do I consider another little compilation of the Agri-
•cultural Department that I also publish it under the head of
Agricultural in New Brunswick, below :

AQRICULTURE IN NEW BRUNSWICK.

From an agricultural point of view this province is one
of the best in the Dominion. Being situated on the sea, its
•shores are indented by deep bays, while the inland is beauti-
fied by numerous small streams, rivers and lakes. The
principal river is the St. John, which, though not navigable
for large vessels for more than 140 miles from its mouth, is
noted for its beautiful scenery and productive intervales along
its bank.

The climate is one of the best, although the temperature
reaches extreme points for short periods both in summer and
•winter, yet the conditions are such that for carrying on all
branches of work, it no doubt excels that of the provinces
lying around us.

"For any great plan of immigration or colonization
there is no British colony which presents such a field for trial
.as New Brunswick." This was the official reports of the Com-
missioners sent out by the British Government to explore a

C/5

S3
k

3
5*

its

line of railway more than half a century ag'o. If such a.
report could be mad? at that time, I am quite sure too much
cannot be said from a immigration point ot view at the
present tune. Many broad acres are now under a high state
of cultivation which half a century ago were almost an
impenetrable forest, and today, with railways extending over
all sections, enables the emigrant to accomplish work that
was unknown fifty years ago.

The land is gently undulating and without many very high,
elevations. The soil is rich, deep and very fertile in nearly
every section, and being well watered, is suitable for growing
nearly every crop with a profitable return.

About 1,500,000 acres of land are now under crops,,
1,000,000 acres under pasture, 500,000 under garden and
orchard cultivation.

The principal crops grown in i8g8 were: Hay, 700,000
tons; oats, 5,000,000; wheat, 410,000 bushels; barley,
109,000; rye, 10,000;. buckwheat, 1,658,000; beans, 25,000;
turnips, 1,000,000 bushels, and about 5,000,000 bushels of
potatoes.

The Local Government realizing the immense importance
of wheat growing, established their now famous wheat policy,
which has been the means of retaining a large amount of
money that has hitherto teen sent out of the province for
flour. This policy was established in 1898, when authority
was granted the Commissioner for Agriculture to offer a
bonus of twenty per cent, of the cost of equipment to persons
or companies equipping roller mills in sections approved of
by the Commissioner.

Authority was also granted to make an importation of
seeds for distribution among the farmers of the province, and
in 1898 and '99, 3,000 and 5,000 bushels respectively were
distributed. During the last two years twelve Hungarian
Roller Mills have been established with very gratifying
results. The followinf>- will give some idea of the increase
in the growth of wheat since 1891. In that year only 200,000
bushels were grown, whiii. i. 1809 we have the gratifying
return of 500,000 bushe- ■. T'l e quality of the wheat grown

igr

is unexcelled, it bein^: larjre and hard, and as before In-
timated, with the assistance of roller mills j, capable of
makinj,' a hi.i,'h j,'rade flour.

The counties of Carleton, York an., Westmorland are
probably the best sections of the province tor hay growing-
and pasture jjrass, and are equally aood for the production
ot oats, buckwheat and barley; while for wheat production
Gloucester and Kent are the banner counties.

With crops such as the above laying at the farmer's
command, laige quantities of beef are made, the quantity
increasing every year, especially in the eastern portion of the
provincij.

The production of pork, which goes hand in hand with
the dairying industry, i^ making very rapid strides, induced
largely by the increased interest which is taken in the manu-
facture of cheese and butter, the by-products of which are
supplemented by a grain ration and used tor this purpo>.e.

Another very important feature of New Brunswick is'the
home market for everything produced on the farm. The vast
lumbering operations of the province entails the keeping of a
large number of men and horses. Then, with the Winter
Port at St. John, where large numbers of horses, cattle and
sheep are exported to the Old Country from the west, our
market is greatly stimulated, for all these animals must be
fed.

Dairying is one of the most important branches of
agriculture in New Brunswick at the present time and the
growth ot the industry during the last few years has been
rapid, tor m 1,^93 only nineteen factories were in operation
manufacturing 532,000 pounds of cheese and 31,95^ pounds
ot buttpr; while this year there has been in operatbn sixty
cheese factories manufacturing about 2,000,000 pounds of
cheese and ten creameries making 310,000 pounds of butter
About two-thuds of this quantity was exported to the Old
Country, for which high prices were obtained and very
flattermg reports accompanied the returns in nearlv every
mstance. ' ^

,18

The principle drawback with which the dairymen have
•to contend in this province is the lon^^ distance from the Old
Country, which is our principle market. Wh.le the cheese
sent over is not materially dama-ed, the exports of butter do
not fare so well, although transportation facilities have been
verv much improved during the last two or three years, and
as the dairving industry is advancing all over the Dommion,
we are looking for a corresponding advance m sh.ppmg

facilities. . • i i ^ii

The province of New Brunswick is particularly we
adapted for dairying. We have a country notably wel
watered and a moist and cooler climate than many parts of
the world at present engaged in this branch of farming. Our
pastures are fresher and when properly looked atter will
produce more per acre than those farther west ot us, while
the land under cultivation is capable of producing large crops
of choice milk producing foods. ^

Notwithstanding our winter and about seven months
compulsorv stable feeding, facts go to show, as already
stated, that New Brunswick can produce as choice an article
of cheese or butter as cheaply as most any country When
. we come to b.et production, we are compelled to admit that
our own Northwest, the western planes of the L nited States
.and the great natural pastures of South America can manu-
facture it more cheaply than we can. Neverthe ess, the New
Brunswick farmer reali.^es the fact that beef can be very
profitablv raised from cheap foods such as corn todder
turnips, 'oats, buckwheat, etc.. of which we have abundant
croDS We can report fair progress in the beet raising
indusirv, especially in the eastern portion of the Province
.vhere 'thousands of acres of marsh land are available and
suitable for this work.

FRUIT.

The cultivation of apples is increasing very rapidly from
year to year, especially along the St. John Valley district,
which is about the only fruit raising district of the province
the soil being particularly well adapted for the growth of
apples.

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Few orchards are yet extensive enough to produce a
-very large quantity of any one variety, excepting the New
Brunswick, which looses its flavor verv quicklv after being
p.cked. Winter varieties such as Bishop Pippin, Fameuse
and Ben Davis are being grown quite extensivelv in some
sections, and more attention is being given to the orchards
than previu..sly hnK been devoted to them.

The cultivation of small fruits, such as strawberries
raspberries, currants and gooseberries is also on the increase'
especially in the vicinity of towns and cites.

This industry might be considerablv increased with
advantage both to growers and consumers, and might be
considerably increased on the farm for home use.

The Local Government has frequently made importations
of pure bred stock consisting of .attJe, sheep and swine at a
g-reat expense, and distributed them all over the province
with a view of stimulating and encouraging the breeding of
a better class of stock. The result of these distributions is
plainly visible, for a general improvement in nearly all
classes has been realized.

Diflferent kinds of seeds are also from time to time dis-
tributed with very gratifying results. .

Encouragement is 'also given to the farmers of the
province by the assistance granted by the Government to the
Agricultural Societies, $9,000 being appropriated for this
purpose yearly.

Three dHiry superintendents are employed bv the Gov.
en^ent for the purpose of g-ivh,,. instruction to 'the cl,eese
and butter niKkers, „, order that a uniform article may be

inl ;. b^"'' r "^"•-•''"'■''S^' 'he erection of these factories
m suitable sections.

from'^r' p'"' ' '"'' '"' ""'^ ''■""^ ''■^^' '^- be inferred
from this Report, it is very evident that the province has
vast capabilities with regard to its power of producing the
very food products that are required in Grea' Britai!^ I
W. r^ ''"''"'''' unfortunately, throughout the pro-

ZlZtr'' '" "'"/'"^ '^'^ ^"' "^^^^ ^ considerable
portion of their very comfortable living by selling it. If this

hav and the other farm products were employed as they
should be, beini,^ used on the farm in feeding stock, both for
meat and dairv purposes, and poultry, the results would be
very different than thev are at present. Throughout the pro-
vince there is a splendid chance for the class of farmer who
knows his business. The market advantages are rapidly m-
creasing, but so great is the fertile area that the price of
land, compared with land in other countries ot like fertility,
remains remarkably low. Of course it is more difficult to
obtain the best class of farms under any conditions, but
there are alwavs accidental circumstances which put evea
the best farms' on the market. During the summer and
autumn of 1899, the Government has been taking options on
the better class of farms through the province and, as far as
I know, there has not been a single instance ot a man who
wished to sell because he was dissatisfied with farming in
the Province of New Brunswick. There was always some
verv irood reason why he should do so. Either he was ad-
vancing in age and his children, if he had any, were taking
up some professions, or, as in the case of a considerable
number, he was growing old in the work, childless and was
independent, and wishing to movejo a town and live quietly
without further work for the rest of his life, he had decided
to sell the farm. A number of places to be sold under these
conditions, including some of the finest farms in the province
in the best state of cultivation, are to be obtained. To give
some idea of prices, let me cite an instance or two. A farm
of 800 acres. 700 of which is an inter', al, situated at Gage-
town on the St. John River valley, can at present (January
igoo) he obtained tor $12,000.00, (about 2400 pounds sterl-
ing); this price including buildings, etc. Another farm only
a mile from Sussex and in the centre of the toremost dairy
section in the province, with some forty acres of interval at-
attached, consisting of some 250 acres in all, about 100 being
cleared and under cultivation, can be obtained for $2,800.00,
(:^.o pounds sterling. ) This also includes wooden buildings.
Some places of course reach considerably above these in
price proporlionaiely, and some again can be obtained for

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these in
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much less money. The hitter instance however, would be
considered a cheap farm in the province, taking- into consid-
eration all the advantages which its position presents. Be-
sides this cheapness of land, another feature that makes the-
province a most desirable home for the farmers is the fact
that building materials and fuel can be obtained everywhere
for the labor of obtaining them. No portion ot the country
has become so densely populated but that fire-wood and
timber can be found within a day's hauling. The population
is scattered, following the wonderfully fertile lands in the
river valleys and elsewhere, and leaving considerable
stretches of forest throughout the whole province This of
course is a tremendous advantage. Nowhere can a house
be erected more cheaply than here, and nowhere can it be
warmed more readily during the winter season. The farmer,,
is indeed, a rarity who has not on his own farm sufficient
firewood for his use. Of course, I am speaking now of the
man who wishes to live in the most economical way. The
majority of farmers throughout New Brunswick burn^oal^ to
a great'extent, this mineral in its bituminous form here being
verv cheap, on account of the proximity of the Nova Scotia
coal fields. A much better conception can be obtained how-
ever, by reading the descriptions of different portions of the
province. These will lead one to infer that there are many
things to tell the British farmer as to why he should take up
his r^esidence in New Bru-.swick. The man who is bound to
make a success of farming in this country is he who has at
least a moderate amount of capital to invest in the beginning,
thus he will have his farm free from debt, and perhaps,
from the beginning, or, under the most unfavorable circum-
stances, in a few years will be an independent if not a
wealthy farmer. Professor Nathaniel S. Shaler, the Dean of
the Lawrence Scientific School of Harvard University, said
to me of New Brunswick, when speaking of i't regarding its
adaptability to settlement by English farmers, that it pre-
sents more advantages, in his opinion, especially for an
Englishman, than any other country to which they could
migrate. " l"he climate," he said, "might be compared

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to that of England, north of Birmingham ; this comparison
being a rough one, as the winters were considerably colder
and the summer somewhat milder. "An Englishman he
continued, " will find this province more like England than
any other portion of the world. There is everythmg here to
recall the old land to him ; the big willows and elms, and the
same farming methods may be employed here, with but very
slight modification." He said further regarding the pro-
vince as follows : —

"QneoftliebestthinKs th;U could happen to this province would
be for the people who inhabit it tu arrive at a ihorouKh apprec.at.on ot
what it is aetuallv capable of doino-. I,s adva-Ua^^es are remarkably
numerous. It is a splendid agricultural country, .nuch hner than any
section of the New England Stales."

[Professor Shaler is the largest farmer in the New England Stales
and an opinion coming from him must necess-arily have a great deal ot
weight, independent of all his knowledge on the subject.]

"Among the other advantages of the province," he continued,
"are the following: Eirst, it has an enormous lengin ot coast; both
the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Bay of Fundy are what would be con-
sidered safe seas, as they are subject to no sudden storms. The
province is so situated that it is free from the worst effects ot the storms
that travel from the west, as they either travel down the St. LawrcMice
Valley or reach the ocean across the New England Slates. 1 1.e
climate is a fine one; the summers are cool and bracing and the wmters
are cold and healthful. You should be proud of your marsn land, as
well as vour intervals. One of the defects of the province, from my
point of 'view, is that Indian co does not mature properly, though i
can be raised most readilv for the silo. A great .nany crops that could
be raised readily here are absolutely neglected. As an mslance ot th.s
hops can be cited. Whoever heard of raising hops in New Brunswick.
Still, thev can be grown to advantage as far north as the Ba.e de
Chaleur,'in the extreme north oi' the province. Oats are here a
magniiicent crop, vielding up to sixty bushels to the acre or even more.
The same thing is true of buckwheat. There are no drouths; pract.cHlly
every crop that can be raised in this latiu.de is a success in New-^
Brunswick. The woods contain great quantities ot small berr.es of
many varieties, fuel is cheap, and nowhe.-e can houses be bu.lt at less
.cost than here. In six years land ca.i be b.ought to full cultivation
from the absolute wilderness. Along the eno.-mous tidal fronts, with
safe landi.ig, are to be found abundance of fish. The smelt hsh.ng
through ihe'ice is a feature well worth ..oting. The large ru.is ot salmon
.up the rivers, the quantities of herring, shad, cod and haddock, and ttie

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larye nmnbor^ of lol>siers ami o_v>ior'^ to bt" kfottoii on the Giilt' coast,
are all indii-ativi- o( the oaso with whicli fooil can be obtained ihroujfh-
oul the province. The River St. John is another niajj;nificienl feature.

The ciiniale may be compareil uitii the climate of En^dand north
of Birininniiani, lieiiix coitk-r in winter and with a somewhat milder
Mimmer. Spruce renews itself with extraordinary rapidity, and, in my
opinion, a man who has five hmulreil acres anil kee]5s three himdreil in
spruce, has in this latter a j^-ood crop "

Professor Shalei- mentioned many other thing's about the province — ■
its sccnerv, miner-al prospi'cls and other resoin-ces which would be loo
numerous to nicnlion; but what has been saiil will K'ive some idea of
his opinion oi' the country as a whole.

Professoi- ShaliM- also saiil, in speakini^ of another phase of the
resources of the country, that the province was one of the finest big.tcame
countries in the world. 0\u^ other thint;- that he said is, that nowhere
in his travels had he seen healthier or sturdier looking children than
he saw thioui;hout this country.

Let US sum up in brief then the chief advantages
which the Province presents to the farmer, whether he comes
with very little money at his disposal or whether he has a
sufficient amount of capital to make himself independent trom
the first.

Tst. It lies iti the extreme eastern portion of the Dom-
inion of Canada, the most important of the British colonies,,
and is thus, with the sister province of Nova Scotia, nearer
the British market than any other portion of the empire
possessing- the same fertility. When I say nearer, this i-.-.
the case under consideration, means very much nearer. To
convince oneself of this, it is only necessary to look at a map
of the world, noting the portions of the empiie which lie
nearer the mother country and which are unaffected as far as
their food supply in the time of war is concerned by the
proximity of foreign powers. Independent of this latter
phase, it will be seen that Xew Brunswick's position is aa
enviable one. Lying only six days' sail from Great Britain,
and having this time gradually cut down by the introduction
of quicker methods of transportation (steamers of higher
speed), no great food-producing colony lies as near the
British market as does this, and the Maritime Provinces are
the most advantageously situated in this respect. Beside

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this there is a considerable local market which is not to be
despised, and which is increasinj? rapidly.

2nd. The country lies in the midst of the temperate
zone and practically half way between the north pole and the
equator. It is a wonderfully healthful climate, with clear
summers and cold winters. Of all the British garrison
stations throughout the world, Kredericton, the capital of 'he
province, when a garrison town, stood first as regards its
healthtulness; and this is no light matter to the people who
are to live in the country. One writer (an American), speak-
ing ot the climate, says : "Willi one exception, the climate
of the New Brunswick winter is the finest in the world, and
that exception is the climate of the Xew Brunswick summer."
The climate necessarily has its direct efl'ect on the people,
the result being as line a class of men physically, having as
pure morals and a mental balance and moral sanity as clear
and vigorous as have any people under the sun. It is a
climate that leads to the youth of the country taking a natural
interest in athletics, and nowhere are out-door sports
followed more enthusiastically than through this province.
In summer canoeing, fishing, boat sailing and rowing, walk-
ing, bicycle riding, mountain climbing and camping out fill
in the time. In the autumn comes the time when the vast
variety of game with which the province swarms is in season,
and hunting of various descriptions is carried on most exten-
sively. In the winter the ground is covered deep with snow
and out-door sports still reign supreme. Tobogganing,
coasting, snow-shoeing and skating are entered into with the
greatest enthus.asm by old and young. .\n American not
long since, a noted authority in athletics in the United States,
said to me: "The Canadians are the greatest sportsmen in
the world; they take a keener interest in out-door life and
out-door sport for its own sake than any people I know, and
I have been everywhere. They enter into athletic sports in a
different spirit than we do, and I can hardly yet understand
them. They do not seem to care whether they lose or win,
.bevond doing their best, and, if they lose, are up and at it

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.aj,'aiti." This, I think, is not an exaj^'-jjfcration. and is a ^a->od
indication of the tendency to be found throu^-hout the country.
3rd. The province has a splendid educational system,
whose interests are presided over by the lioard ol lulucation,
a department of the Provincial (lovernment. This Board
consists of the foremost educationalists of the province, and
by it the work is prescribed. A great pride is taken in edu-
cational matters, amonj4- the finest buildings in every town
being the schools. Great number.^ of smaller school houses
are scattered throughout the country, and hardly a farm can
be found, except in the most out-lying districts, which is
more than a mile from the school house. The staflf of
teachers to be found in these schools is necessarily an efficient
one, as they are trained at and obtain their licenses from the
Provincial Normal School at Fredericton. The system, as
founded i . New Brunswick today, is the result of much
thought and much labor by men who have given their lives
to the subject, the result being that the educational system
of the Maritime Provinces is unsurpassed in the world. The
schools are free throughout, and the higher courses in the
high schools are in reality on a par with the more elementary
work of a university course, and the boy or girl who takes
advantage of all the educational facilities offered free by the
province should be able to write, not only good English, but
should have formed a style, with a firmness and breadth that
indicates originality. He should have a thorough knowledge
of all the more elementary branches of mathematics, advanced
algebra, trigonometry and book-keeping. He should have a
considerable knowledge of natural science, not in the value-
less way it has so often been taught, but a considerable
practical knowledge, that will not alone give him a grasp of
things as they are, but should be of the utmost economic
value to him in his life, especially if that life is to be the life
of a farmer. He should have good reading knowledge of
French, German, Latin and Greek, and should be acquainted
with the more common of the classics. Besides all these
things, he should have a practical application of the natural
-science work, a fair elementary knowledge of physiology and

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hygiene, embodyiiiij a sufficient ixvoimd work to enable him.
to 'have a knowledge of how to keep himselt in the best
physical condition/ These, as before, are the conditions,
which the New Brunswick system of education tends to bring
about. For a more accurate knowledge of that system it
will be necessary to refer to the curriculum, which is -uniform
throughout the' province, copies of which can be obtained
from the Educational Depart ment.

4th. Land is cheap, as is the cost of living, and a farm
may be bought in Xew Brunswick for a sum that would in
many cases be much less than the annual rental of the same
sized farm in Great Britain, and the quality of the soil is
unsurpassed, the climatic conditions also being evei-ything
that can be desired for successful farming of the type found
throughout tlie temperate zone.

;,th. Fuel and building materials are on every hand,
pract'icallv the only expense connected with obtaining them
being that of the actual process, the materials for the most
part being obtained free.

6th. There are large, unsettled areas which are yet to
be cleared, and, though the labour that is involved is con-
siderable and the results slow to come, compared with those
obtained bv taking up cultivated farms ; still, for the man
who has no money, and wishes in a matter of five or six
years to place himself in an independent position, no country
offers better agricultural facilities than does Xew Brunswick,
uncleared land being obtainable at prices which are really
hardly more than nominal. Some of the best uncleared land
in the Province can be had for a dollar (four shillings ap-
proximatelv^per acre. The Government will do everything
in its power to further the interests of either type of settler.
If a man comes out with a moderate amount of capital, and
a moderate amount in some countries is a considerable
amount in New Brunswick— say five hundred to a thousand
pounds sterling, or even very much less, some farms being
obtained for one hundred pounds, the Government will do all
in their power to see that the settler gets the very best
position which he can, with the amount of money which he-

has on hand. On the other hand, in the case of a man who
comes out with practically no money left after paying- his
passaj,re. except that necessary to purchase his land from the
the Crown, the Government will do all in their power tor him
on his arrival at St. John, and see that he ^ets properly
placed and comfortably settled.

I publish below extracts from the regulations for
carrymg- out the provisions of the Labour Act ot the Province
bearinu- on this matter. •

All applirations for Crown Land niu.sl be made in the name of and
by he real apphcant, or by his Attorney duly authorized, and the Grant
.hall be issued only to him, unless his claim be transferred with the
approval oi the Lieutenant Governor in Council.

If the Petition be accepted, its approval shall be published in the
Royal Gazette, and uithin three months thereafter (but if between ,st
OcU.be.- and ,s, Apnl then to reckon as Iron, the latter) he shall im-
I rou. and clear on h,s lot to the value of not less than (.o) twenty
dolars;andalso wnhin three n,on,hs additional to the value , all o^
not less than (40) forty dollars

Xo Labor Act Comntissioner is t ; assi.^-n work in pavment for I and
>."t,l he knows that the applicant has i.nproved to t'he value o .I

t:::^'o:r7n ^^- ^^^•^^■'-'-' 3). ..ki report mustbe;L;::b !

He shall within two years after publication of his anoroval trans-
n. ,0 the Surveyor-General a Certificate attested to by him^e lo, oTh
be ore a Mag.trate. and certified by two of his nei^lLrs, that et'
but t a house ht tor occupancy upon the lot. of not iL dimensions than
sixteen by twenty feet; and is then residing, therein and tub ^h
c^.... and had cultivated in the previous U at i;;:'^'!^^^

The absence named in fhr- -iliz-xr^ \ ,. i n
.^^^ I r , " '" '"^ ciuove Act shall not in any one year ov-

^e d five months vi.:-In Summer, durin,. the months of Ju ; ."d
August ; and .n VV.nter, during the months of January. Febria'y L.^d

BeR,re he shall be permitted to cut any timber or lumber (except
.hat cut ,n clearing: the land for cultivation) he shall tr-u smit t . fh
Sur.^.or General a Certificate as prescribed in Sec L T an^ ^^

^::":nr:r ^°"^"-'°"- ^-^ - '- — - - -'cj:^

All persons who have purchased Crown Lands not exceeding loo

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then residing: on and improving the lot so purchased, and have so resid-
ed and improved the same for the three previous consecutive years,
shall be entitled to a Grant upon producing a Certificate to that effect
from a Labour Act Commissioner ; such Certificate to be sworn to by
the settler before a neighboring- Magistrate,

No person shall be authorized under the previously recited Act to
commence an action for trespass upon his lot, unless he shall have pre-
viously presented to the Surveyor General a Certificate on oath that be
has performed all the conditions required by the Act of Assembly and
the present Regulations, necessary to entitle him to present possession
of the lot located to him.

The Surveyor General shall prepare the necessary Forms of Peti-
tions, Certificates, &c., to -^arryoutthe provisions of the above Act, and
shall furnish them to Magistrates, Commissioners, and all other per-
sons who may apply, in order to secure uniformity in official documents
connected with the before recited Acts.

No application will be approved unless forwarded by a Commis-
sioner or a Justice of the Peace.

7th. The rehgious conditions in New Brunswick are
such that, wherever a man is situated, he is never any great
distance from a church. In every Httle village throughout
the province the number of church spires is a source
of wonderment to the traveller who sees the country
for the first time. Professor Shaler. whom I have
quoted several tiines, in speaking of the City of
St. John in this connection, says that, undoubt-
edly, it has the finest churches of any city of its size in the
world. They are for the most part massive stone or brick
structures, with tastefully designed interiors. The city is a
city of church-goers. This remark applies to practically
every town in the province. Throughout the country sections
hardly can a few houses get together, forming a small
farming centre, than a year or two will see a church spring
up in their midst. The denominations to be found through-
out the province are for the most part the following: Church
of England, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist.
Baptist and Congrcgationalist. There are other, denomina-
tions in small numbers. An American said of the province:
I'The reason you have not got Christian Scientists and
Spiritualists is because the climate is not calculated to breed

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them." There may be some truth In the remark. Many of
the country churches are very fine stone structures of which
the province is justified in bein^- proud. The two classes of
'buildin^^s which are the finest in every New Brunswick village
■are the churches and the schools, and this indicates more
than anything that could be said the moral tone and the
mental trend of the country as a whole.

8th. The means of transportation are unsurpassed.
New Brunswick is a complicated net work of natural water-
ways, many of which are navigable. The value of this alone
is cf course, incalculable, but it fades into secondary import-
•ance when compared with the magnificent railway system
through the province. There are more miles ot railway in
New IJrunswick, when compared with the population than in
any oilier country in the world.

The chief lines of railway are, first the Intercolonial, a
portion of the great Canadian Government Railway system
running between Montreal and Halifax and possessing a large
number of branches. This railway enters the Province from
the north at Metapedia on the Restigouche River, proceeds
down the valley of the Restigouche to Campbellton, then to
Dalhousie at the mouth of the river; from this point it turns
to the south, and taps the whole eastern shore of the Pro-
vincc. Passing through the city of Moncton in Westmorland
■County. ,t proceeds to the southeast, past the towns of Dor-
chesier and Sackville and through the countrv of the great
marsh region at the head waters of the Bay of Fundy. It
passes the Tantramar Marsh, and thence enters Cumberland
County, Nova Scotia, on its way to Halifax. From Moncton
one .section of the line runs through Petitcodiac to St. John
which IS also the Atlantic terminus of the great Canadian
Pacific Railway, with the exception of the trans-Siberina,
the longest road operated under one management in the
^yorld. The Canadian Pacific Railway taps the whole of
Cei/a-al and Western Canada, bringing hundreds of thou-
sands oi tons of produce to St. John on its way to the British
•yarket. The Canadian Pacific Railway system passes
through th e region west of the St.Jchn River up toFrederictoa

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and thence operates lines on both sides of the river
to Woodslock. North of tliis it continues throu^fh the
valley oi the St. John to Kdniundston, the shire town of
Madawaska County, where it turns north and runs through
Quebec. Another branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway
leaves the Province at X'anceboro, nine miles from Macadam
junction in York County, and enters the State of Maine,
making a short cut through tliat State to Montreal. The
Canada Eastern runs across the Province from Fredericton,
up the valley of the Nashwaak River and down the south-
west Miramichi to Chatham on the Gulf of St. Lawrence.
The Gulf Shore andCaraquet Railway taps the extreme north-
eastern portion of the province, Gloucester County, and con-
nects with the Intercolonial at Bathurst. Besides these there
are a considerable number of stnaller lines, one, the Albert
Railway, connecting with the Intercolonial at Salisbury, runs
to Albert in the county of that name, the Elgin branch pene-
trating the more western portion of the county. The Xew
Brunswick Central runs from Norton near the Grand Lake
towns, and the St. Martin's and Upham Railway runs from
Hampton to the former town on the shores of the Bay of
Fundy, Besides these there are others of less importance
and still other lines now in process of construction. It is but
necessary to examine a railway map of the province to get
some conception of the facilities offered, either tor passenger
service or the transportation of produce.

The most important minerals found in the Province of
New Brunswick are iron, copper, nickel, antimony, lead,
silver, gold, nrmganes-, bituminous coal, anthracite coal,
albertite, petroleum, bituminous shales, graphite, peat,
limestone, gypsum, granite, diorite; ornamental stones, such
as marble, serpentine, porphry and others in smaller quanti-
ties, freestones, millstones, grindstones, slates, clays of ex-
cellent quality for brick m;iking, silica, infusorial earth,
mineral paints and mineral springs. Besides these are found
barytes, fluor, Iceland spar and asbestos. The gem stones,
are garnets, black tomm;dine and amethysts. Among rare
metal is found molybdenite. Referring to this, Dr. Bailey

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says: "It is in scattered grains and scales, some of the
Matter being- as large as the thumb nail." For further infor-
snation on these minerals, I shall have to refer the reader to
the "Mineral Resources of New Brunswick," by L W
Bailey, Ph. D. LL. IX, F. R. S. C, printed by S. E. Daw-
son, Ottawa, in 1899, for the Crown Land Department of
New Brunswick. Copper has been found in widely spread
situations but has been very little developed. There are appar-
ently considerable deposits in the Province, one of which is
now being worked near Dorchester, Westmorland County.
Nickel is found in the mineral pyrrhotitc in the vicinity of
St Stephen in considerable quantities. Antimony has been
worked to a certain extent, but. for some unaccountable
reason, was gi,'en up. Relating to it Professor Bailey
says:- .'As to the quantity or quality of the antimony
ores ot P.ince William, there can be but little question,"
Speakmg of the shaft that was worked, he says: "There
was also no sign of diminution in the quantity of the ore as
followed in depth, but on the contrary a tendency to greater
concentration, with a replacement to some extent of Stibnite
by native antimony. The question of future working of the
<lepos,t IS, therefore, nearly one of demand." Lead and
silver m the form of galena, is found through the Province at
various points, how extensively is yet to be determined.
Samples that have been sent to the geological survey have
been found to carry silver to the extent of .5.08 ounces to
the on of two thousand pounds. Very small quantities of
g-okl have been discovered in the Province, but no systematic
search has yet been made; and, considering the proximity of
the rich gold fields of Nova Scotia which form one of the
important assets of that Province, it would seem that New
Brunswick must also come in for its share. Considerable
deposits of manganese have been found in the Province and
worked extensively. Like everything of the sort manganese
will stand being developed. The bituminous coal has been
found in the greatest quantity in the Grand Lake region,
and IS referred to under the head of Queen's County. Anthra-
cne coal has, so far. only been discovered in limited

7"*

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quantities, chiefly in the vicinity of Lepreaux Basin, a shorK
distance west of the line between St. John and Charlotte
Counties. "Albertite " is the name j^nven to a remarkable
and peculiar mineral found in Albert County. It was a
matter of a fjreat deal of controversy as to what it should be
called, whether it was a true coal or was produced through
the partial distillation of petroleum. Durinj>- the time that it
was mined, it sold for a remarkable high price, from fifteen
to twenty dollars per ton. So great was the dip, however
of the seam, that before long, especially as it became of less
diameter than above, it did not pay for the raising and ex-
penditure connected with the mining. Bituminus shales are
to be found in very considerable quantities, scattered through
the carboniferous area, especially in the south-east part of
the Province. These have been used somewhat extensively
themselves, and are now acquiring an additional interest in
relation to their bearing on the probability of finding petro-
leum in large quantities in the Province.

The Government has taken an interest in the matter and
a company is now making a thorough exploration of the
fields to discover all that can be discovered relative to the
prospect of finding extensive petroleum deposits in New
Brunswick. Considerable deposits of g.aphite occur in the
province. They have not, however, been mined extensively.
Peat bogs of great extent — the amount of peat being simply
incalculable — may ultimately turn out of great value. The
limestones throughout the province have been the basis of
very considerable industries. There are a large number about
the vicinity of St. John which turn out great quantities ot
lime. In 1895 lime to the value of $35,709.00 was exported
to the United States alone, while in 1890 the same country
took the mineral to the value of $143,292.00, this being the
largest year's export up to the present. In 1881 the entire
value of the amount exported was only $1,822.00. The
gypsum deposits of Hillsborough, Albert County, are very
extensive, and have been operated on a large scale for a
considerable number of years, forming the basis of a large»
lucrative industry. No finer quality of gypsum has ever

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been found than in this vast deposit in Xow r^runswick. In
1897 from Hillsborough alone was shipped to the United
States 59,334 tons of the crude phister rock. Other deposits
are found throughout the province. The. finest quality of
freestone suitable and extensively used for the manufacture
of grindstones has long been quarried on a large scale in
New Bondon in Gloucester County, forming the foundation
for a continuous and paying industry of great importance.
There are throughout the province considerable quantities of
granite and diorite. One of the finest deposits of granite is
to be found at Hampstead in Queen's county. These granites
are especially suited for foundations and have been thus used
—as I learned from Professor Bailey's report— in the piers of
the Fredericton bridge and in a considerable number of
foundations of large buildings, both public and private.
There are also fine deposits of granite throughout the Nerepis
\'alley and extending westward to St. George. The St.
(Jeorge granite is of a comparatively bright red colour, thus
being very useful as an ornamental stone. There are also
throughout the province at various points, to be found black
granites. Of ornamental stones marbles of various colours
are to be met with some containing serpentine of a pale green
colour. There are also moderate deposits of borphyry.
Throughout various sections of the province are to be found
some very fine quarries of free stone, mill stone and grind
stone; some of the finest free stone quarries are to be found
at the head of the Bay of Fundy. One o( the best of these
quarries is to be found near Newcastle, Northumberland
County. Among the best of all the grind stone quarries are
those found at Stone Haven in Gloucester County on the
shore of the Bale de Chaleur. Slate is scattered' in many
positions throughout the province, as is also true of clay
suitable for brick making. There are considerable deposits
of silica and one or two of infusorial earth. Of mineral
springs, there are some very fine salt springs, at Sussex.
From these a splendid quality of salt has been made for some
time, much of which has been used in salting the large quan-
tities of. butter turned out in the Sussex Valley. In the

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Parish of Havelock are to be found some fine mineral springs,
the water from which is used in the manufacture of a variety
of beverages.

NEW BRUNSWICK AS A GAME COUNTRY.

The Province of New Brunswick stands today the finest
of all the accessible hunting regions on the North American
continent. The big game hunting alone being very fine.
The government of the province, realizing the importance of
preserving the game have enacted a series of game laws,
which are enforced most stringently; the result being
embodied in ihe foregoing sentence. The practical result is
that a man who goes out in the province in search of big
game rarely comes back disappointed, and if he does he is
almost always in a position to blame himself for it. The big
game to be found in New Brunswick consists of four species:
the moose, the largest and most magnificent of the deer
tribe at present in existence; the caribou, an animal almost
as much sought after as the moose; the Virginia deer and the
American black bear. The latter is very shy and is only
occasionally met with. Great numbers of moose, caribou
and deer, however, are to be found throughout the province.
The game law is such that no one person is allowed to shoot
more than one moose, one caribou and two deer in any
one season. The tendency, of course, is for the game to
increase rapidly under such conditions as these, and if a man
returns to civilization with his full allowance, he should be
well satisfied. The moose is a magnificent animal, weighing
often 1,000 pounds, standing seven feet or more in height
with an enormous palmated pair of antlers, sometimes
stretching over five feet from tip to tip and weighing as much
as seventy pounds. The moose are hunted in a variety of
ways, the most popular and one of the most exciting bein<>-
known as "calling," of which a description will be given
lalor on. The caribou is also a magnificent specimen of the
deer tribe, sc.newhat smaller than (he moose, but often more

n''-»:\

difficult ,o obtain. Like their bigger cousin, tbey are very
"arj- and extremely fleet of foot. They range over at
dstancesu, a comparatively short time, seentifg alwlv To
b on the move, and clever, indeed, is the sportsman" ho
can always be certain of getting his caribou. The Red Deer
or V,rg,„,a Deer is a beautiful little animal, the buck 1 ke
he car,bou, having branching antlers. Th species is x-
tremely graceful, light limbed and fleet of foot, and ^eneraUv
remarkably wary. They inhabit the timber Joods.'of ,^
he higher hardwood lands. The Black Bear, an a, m"

he h ,T:' T7"^^ "'''^°^""' °"-^y'»les, i'nasmu :
lie has a dreadful reputation (in books), is now found com
-onlv only ,„ the more uncivilized portions of the proMr;
around the w.lderness lakes and mountains, He is I" at
s^eep th,ef or rather was when plentiful, and the sport^n, m
s, mcleed, uckv if he comes across a bear accidenta'u No

own hide, and none ,s more cowardly. I have vet to hear of
an a„ he„t,c nts.ance of the black bear attacking anybody
cept when badly wounded and cornered, and ma^ are .t
anu,s,ng stones told of this shy animal as the camp fire smoke
curls ,ts way up through the dark green canopy of pr„ce
needles overhead. ' spruce

In the last few years, owing to the great number of
n.oose, caribou and deer to be found i„ the pro ce New
Brunswick has become the resort of some of the most femou"
ortsmen of both hemispheres. The number of moo" o
be found throughout the great northern section drained bv
^ie Res.,gouche and Miramichi Rivers, as well as b^ .h^.
Tcb,que, can only be surmised. Over and over agai^ I have
«en .he muddy spots on the banks of one of theaC i e"

day out. There were moose tracks everywhere and tr^.t

be followed and here and there, the big snow-shoe like foot
ol the car,bou had left its imprint, almost large enough to
have been made by the foot of an elephant, Besdesh"
..orthern sect.on, which is the chief moo'se region, the tl

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ifine caribou and moose ground in the central eastern portion
■of the province south of the Miramichi River known as the
Canaan Region, and a fair moose area is to be found south
of Muamichi Bay, partly in Northumberland County and
partly in Kent County. The red deer, however, has a much
wider distribution and follows less carefully the more deeply
wcoded sections. It is to be found practically everywhere in
the province, in some places being so common as to be a
nuisance. The caribou country is practicallv coincident with
the moose country. The former animals are especially to be
found on the great barrens surrounding some of the wilder-
ness lakes. It is not to be supposed, however, that there
are a sufficient number of sportsmen who visit the province
to have any appreciable effect on the quantity of big game to
be found here. There is a license fee of thirty dollars for
shooting big game, payable by non-residents of the province-
those who are fortunate enough to reside in New Brunswick
having to pay only t-vo dollars. Everything being considered,
Nevv Brunswick stands today one of the finest big game
countries in the world, and a particular advantage in con-
nect.on with this is the fact that the best portions of the
game area are readily accessibje. There are many excellent
and famous guides to be obtained, either Indians or white
men, whichever the choice may be. The majority of foreign
sportsmen who come to New Brunswick each season for the
big game shooting are Americans. Some idea of the num-
ber who come to this province for this sport each year can be
obtained from the fact that in 1899 the returns from the
sales of licenses amounted to about $7,000. Supposing that
these licenses were all granted to non-residents of the pro-
vmce, there would then be no less than 350 sportsmen after
b.g game in the season of 1899. Putting an outside estimate
on It, It ,s improbable that more than 25 of these came out
of the woods without something, (personallv I don't know of
a single one who was disappointed) but, even allowing this
number, it will give a fair idea of the number of moosei cari-
bou and deer which must roam through the fine forests of
■^h>s portion of Canada. All information regarding moose

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and caribou shootino- in fho «.-^, •

at Saint John or ^:^:^::Z.^^:,:''t'' ''''''

unformation can practicallv h. . ''" necessary

' the province As Thi " ^ " '"^"'^^''^ throughout

entlvJn. • ^ '"■^' """"'^ ^"'J caribou are evid-

'€ntl> increasins- ,n numbers, the new lavv^ n.t . t

-i" 'orce for any considerable period """^ '^^"

Of the small game to be found in the countrv fir«f •

fa„„ly from a g-astronomic point of view *^

]..L.,c A u family, which swarm on the rivers

Jakes and shorp«j nf fi,^ d • . mers,

;> c i^.uj, or an the Canadian game duckv; V«v.f •
Jniportanre rnnU fU„ ui • s««"c uucks. i%ext in

Tf e .a:,i;:'i^i.:,^,-: rt.er„?-"o;:i;t :;i-

le Bav o?V , "! "' "'' ''"'' °' «""" Lawrence and

n er ho / '" '^"' J""™'-^' ""™'-'''' 'heir southern

. ; are Z; •""' "^'"" '" "^^ »P""^' "" '^eir return jom™

i A, eth^d! :? fh? • """':"■ °"^ ^^' "- --' i"'-"'-

p:oVe.hro:^ra:;™?;^:;ro::;/c^-r-;L:7-

Nicholas LoUir. Malicete Indian g-iide, with grilse,
Restieoiiche River.

and fall, .-an only be realized hy sailing through those waters-
any attempt at description would seem like nothirg but an
exaggeration. (For description of brant and goose shcot-
ing, see Gloucester County). .

The most prominent of the g^Tmc birds to be found alon-
the shore are the (iolden and Black Bellied Plover, and varU
ous types ot Sandpipers and the ^'ellow legs, together with
Turnstones, Sanderlings and occasional Codwit and a moder-
ate nt.mber of Curlew. Of these the finest game birds are
the two species of Plover mentioned. Formerly these were
found m very great quantities in the province, but of latter
years they have almost entirely disappeared, until within the
last year or two when they have re-appeared in moderate
numbers. Down in the autumn, with the first northerly
wind, they come, alighting along the sea shore and in old
pasture fields not fai from the water and excellent sport is
to be obtained among them. The sport, however, is now
very uncertain and not to be counted on. The greatest
numbers of these birds are now to be found around the head
waters of the Bay of Fundy, where miles upon miles of flats
furnishing great quantities of food, are laid bare with every
receding tide. Around these extreme head-waters of the Bay
are to be found, however, greater numbers of small shore
birds. Sandpipers, etc., during the fall migration, than,as far
as I can learn occur elsewhere in the world. I have spent
between two and three weeks in a camp near the largest of
the feeding grounds, studying these birds from an ornitho-
logical point of view and endeavoring to obtain photograpl.s
of the immense flocks which feed on the bare mud flats. .-Xs
the tide rises the birds are forced up towards the land; th.e
distance between high and low water mark decreases from
between one and three miles down to the width of an oidin-
ary beach, perhaps twenty yards. Into this space are com-
pressed the vast numbers of birds which, when the tide was
low were scattered every few yards over the whole area of
flats, where the best class of food was to be found. The
result is that, at high water, the flocks are simply enormous,
and, though the birds are only a few inches in length, the-

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flocks can be seen a. a dis.ance o. three or ,ou. „,i,e,. From
V nous calc„la„ons which , „,a.e carelully Curh,/,he la eT
,r.irt of the summer of ,898, I am safe in savin., that m-,n v ,r
these flocks contain between ei^ht and te'n thouC b d'
A shot from a stnijle barrel of a ten bore Run has killed as
many as one hundred and twenty. These Vi.tle birds hort'lv

•after thetr arr.val at the fine feeding gro.md on the b!v of
• ..ndy become as fat as butter and art v'ery deiici s i.teed

I properly cooked, being equal to the best plover

Another somewhat larger bird that visits the head wa' rs of
l.e bay n, arge numbers, though no, with the absolute

legulanty thai do the Sandpipers, is the lack nin. T

-er:;::rrr:r:rg-,-»:-:7^;:;

interesting l.st, including- the Amenc-A,, R ffl ^ r^

1^,, 11 , » '^ American Kurned Grousp

locally known as the Kirr-h P-.-f • i . ., »jruut.e,

-hose local soubrio ett he Sor ^'p •!. '•'""'"' °"'"'''
Woodcock a smJiT I ^ ! "^ Partridge, the American

.'et° up f om r h "" "•" ''"^"'^" '""''"' "" -"-'h

,},cis up rrom ,; b rch cover wttU tu^ ... ■ • .

.1 , . «-<Jver vvitn the same whirnn"- whiz -mrl

goes thundenng over the tops ol the alders so quick ytha it
seems ,mposs,bie to bring him down, and las ^^6^ ,
means leas,, except in size, the Wilso,'s Snip The bir
Par,r,dge (so called) is lound ,hro„ghou, he pri L i
•every situat on where a »rrnnc« ^ provmce in

vegetable garden o tht c^-r If""""'^" J '"'• '''""' ^'
.hi"y miles from a hou e ! ! V T 7 :''"' """'

cellen, flavor and a ha flier T, "^ """^ ''^ ""

found generally in low , ^''\''""'' P="-«"1ge is ,0 be
lieavv frow h f '' ""'""^"y where covered by a

b rlThr he ^r7- ^"^ ^""""^ ^™"- ■' " -»""

-. i» noTin'",:::;,": ;:r ::::;':•' : ^- ^-^ «-■

■ud sho, fi , u '■" '"^' ''°''''' ^'^'^ "" " "'ood road

il m uL: t7l '"'' ""^ " -"'-^^ "-^'y moving

»ho. either Thai "r' ™' " P»«i"'l-ly good revolver

Tha, pecul«,r and erratic bird, the American

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Woodcock, is to be found in sm:ill numbers throughout-
suitable covers in different parts oi the province. A man
may consider himself very fortunate, if he gets four or five
brace of these birds, though some seasons they are much
more plentiful thaii usual. The Wilson's Snipe is to he
found in a great variety of places through New Hrunswick.
Among the best of these are various sections of the river
valleys on the marshy portion of the intervals (see Queen's
County) and around certain lake regions, as, for instance, the
Jolicii'ur Lakes at the head of the Tantramar Marsh. This is
supposed to be the finest snipe ground in the province.
Sometimes as many as fifty brace of birds have been obtained
in a day, chough this is a very extraordinary kill. There are
a considerable number of other game birds, which lack of space
forbids my mentioning, among them are the Bittern, the
Scaup Duck, the Golden Eye Duck and a variety of others.
Those mentioned, however, are the chief game birds of New
Brunswick. The accounts given are from persoi,al experience
and correct in as far as they jro.

The most important of the game fish of the Province ot
New Brunswick are the Salmon, (Salmo salar) and the various.
^ arieties of trout, call them what you will (Salmo fontinalis
trutta, .%c.). These fish are too well known to need any
description. Excellent salmon fishing can be obtained in a
number of streams, while splendid sport is to be gotten on
the Restigouche, Nepisiquit, Tobique and other of the more-
famous salmon rivers. Portions of these rivers are leased
by the Government and on these leased portions it is difl^cult
to obtain permits for salmon fishing. There are long
stretches, however, which may be fished by any angler not
belonging to the clubs who lease the other pools, and here
fine sport may be obtained. With trout, hov.^ever, the case
is very different ; they swarm in every stream, river and lake
and unsurpassed trout fishing is to be obtained in the season.
Permits may be gotten for trout fishing, even in the leased
portions of the salmon streams. These are generally to be
obtained from a gentleman in charge of the interests ot the
various clubs. As far as trout fishing is concerned, however,.

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41
thi. h a unnecessary formality, as throu^-hout ,he «hol-

.-.e upper s.re.ches of he R ,,!:,: ."^''^Tr''' '^°"'">'

run to a verylarg:e si.e, specimens leaving been al^en ' ° '
trequen.ly up to between six and se-en pouni A T I

t no-nnrv -ic: k„- s»"=^'^i'- tnrir such a con-

.n cnc> as be.no- necessaril^v interfered with bv other

iishermen is unknown A • - other

.specKled beauties : any 7Z T'l '" '="^'* "'' ""
.hrougl,,he Province vh7t,ln the •■,""""•' ''""'"■^'
everything is „,,d flowed ^^Tene.::; ZT"'"'"
w..iK,nt the other invariable accompanil?:::';'::,!"::-
b. k flyand festive mosquito, is indeed an experience u , 'h
« be thoroughly enjoyed and never fade from the me , o
of.he sportsman or the lover of nature as Ion,, as" fee

; r-bird "idrh"""'-"" r-' '"^ ^^»' -^'-» ^^^

Pro- t'tdal ^„ "^' '" '"" ''■'■■"'"" '^ P"W-l-d hv ,1,:,

Xe Brms^-ic^^Tv ""' 'V""""'' •''"'" """ R«' '"
•.sk Lr , n ■ '"""P'"" '■■"" ''e ^■'btained for the

■skutsf and .v,ll g,ve much more information than one cm
"tf-unpt to enibody in a „ork of thi, ,vpe

Ft .1

i;lT

ST JOHN.

y'^^:5^'Xv of St. John, the winter port of Canada. lies on

1 I'nd), at the mouth ot the noble St. lohn River u' ■
cty of about 50,000 inhabitants, notable >: a;';::;;, I:;:

b/.

It is situated on a rO(.ky foundation, th

a point which stretch

e o

of this point lies Courtney B
head-water, while to the west, where fl

rig-inal city lying- on

out into the harbour. On the east

ay, an extensive but shallow

ows in

the harbour proper, one of the fii

deep water everywhere capable of floating- the 1

e river, lies

est in the world. With
:arg-est vessels

a wharf area rapidlv incre

asine-

s»

at all times of the tide, witi

the position of St. John, reg-arding- its harboi

an enviable one. ""'

As the purpose of thiv wori. has been to explore the
natural rather than the artif.cial resources of the province I
shall not attempt to occupy space in g-iving a description of
the cty Itself; this would necessitate considerable time and
much_ thought if the description was to do justice to this
beautiful citv.

^ As one approaches the liarbour of St. John, there is not
a single dangerous reef or badly placed bar to render- naviga-
tion difficult. Steamer captains who hr.ve never before been
in the port, proceed with perfect confidence without a pilot
even in thick weather, and this can be said of very few port,
in the world As one sails into the port, on one of those
absolutely clear summer days, for which the province is
aioted, the sight that presents itself is indeed a beautiful one.
Before the entrance to the harbour mouth is reached, the
shores of the Bay of Fundy are seen stretching away in both
directions, rising to considerable heights on the nor'th. The
one thing that impresses a person with an eve to thino-s
niihtary IS the ease with which St. John could" be strongly
fortified. It simply presents a series of natural fortifications
ot the most improved modern type, outside the harbour,
r-illy. the two head-lands which with Partridge Island
between, form the mouth, cross from busy Fort Dufferin on
the eft, and Red Head on the right; both high commanding
banks. Ideally situated for mounting heavv guns. Fort
Dufferin at present mounts a few guns of rather antiquated
design, which are necessarHy not particularlv serviceable,
except for target practice. Between these two and a little
further up the harbour lies Partridge Island, with the situated

over the houses of West St tl„T u^ ! "''™''' ""■''^
Martello.Tmver marHnl m , " ''*'' "'"^^ ^'"l^ ""=

quated guns are „,ou„ted, which ilete otT °'' '7 """-
little servire n„ ,i ^ °""=''* '^O'lU be of

a hig-h limestone ridp-e lies Fort hV ^he harbour on

Parlridse Island All ^ t ""."^'^""■"^'^ °n b""' sides of
less but th. -d . ' ''^""''='' "^o Practicallv worth.

j2 are ut r';r:ed""-^ ''''"''"" '^= '-•^«-'°" "^ «'•

"se the numerous spires ereat hri.t t " *"'*'"■

grain elevators that indi'c! e he ''■'"""" """ P™"""'='"
John. ^ ""^ P°'""°" <" 'be city of St.

beaut" ThTstlo:"""'' r '"" '""'^^='-'''" °'- "-

-^;-, 'Hatt«:rroi:;::o ra:;;e:;^st ^^r it
-:^: rvrat„rr r" '°"''"--t'c:,:;i':

Pleasant, lie.s t," c tTprtp ^ rr °" "' '"^ "^ ^ount

on the left or wester shore ".re H "" "'''""'""" ""J"''

Sand Point the Atl „, 7 ^""''" ^'■»'" ^'''''^'°'-^ at

•nt. Atlantic terminus of the Canadian PaciPc

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Ra.lway These elevators are capable of holding no less
than a m.lhon bushel and stand in the center of a fine set of
steamboat berths; below them on each side stretch th. Ion.
flat freight sheds, while along the wharves lie steamers of
various l.nes carrying produce for the most pan to Great
Bmam Wharf after wharf succeeds this terminus on the
left bank, and as we proceed further up the harbour, we pass
steamers aiul sailing vessels from every port anchored in mid
stream. The majority of them show the well known funnels
of the promment English firms. Beside then, lie scows
carrying thousands of feet of lumber which is rapidly being
oaded on the right bank; almost opposite the Sand Poi.u
terminal lies the lower terminal of the Int ^rcolonial Railway
ot Canada; the main terminal lying near the head of the
harbour where is situated the great grain elevato. , recently
put up by the Dominion Government. Along the whole east
•shore of the harbor, and around to the north lie the chief
wharves of the port at which are also to be found steamers
and sailing vessels. In the vicinity of Reed'. Point are
situated the termini of various coastal lines of steamers
some running across the Bay to the adjoining province of
Nova .^cotia and some south along the coast to American
ports, notably Boston. The International Steamship Com-
pany operates a line of wooden paddle steamers and one
wooden single screw boat, the St. Croix, between St. John
ancl Boston This company has been long in existence and
has done a large carrying trade always. Within the last few
years the Dominion Atlantic Railway Company which origin-
ally ran their boats between Boston and Yarmouth. Nova
Scotia, have now put boats on two lines running out of St
John; the St. John and Digby, Nova Scotia, route, and the St!
John and Boston. The steamers put on by this company are
a -edit to the country. They are very much the finest boats
>' the coastal service on the western hemisphere. They are
a 1 twenty knot boats and are fitted up superbly. Between
M John and D.gby runs the Prince Rupert, a paddle steamer
that swings a wickeder wheel" than any paddie boat
'Winning around the coast of the continent, and does the

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hrrZi' T "■ ■'°'" '" ^''•'^>- '" " ""'^ over .wo

c^eo.,e :2'p::::!z "'T "•"" '■"'""'■ "^^

screw .steamers ol wh; L . "^ "^ magnificent twin

"o finer bor :;;:?" r^'r ■■' "'"' »■"• j-">' -^

a-l .he servil ^w ; :;;'™: "'" ^^ '"'!'^ ^"'P-^-"-'
is rapidly increasin.. "^ ^ ^ "'"' "" '"'P°'-'»'" P^^-'

East .side of t„e harbot.r .Unl e n s.o t^-uZ:;" "'

:::7™^- 7 ^""*- - - co„t;rdr;rt:x

of chnr h sp res^rj' ■"'"'^^'''■^'>- ^'"-^ -ith the nuntber
The itv has h . """ "" '"'* "'"" "' 'h^ h^bour.

^";in''^h:r;d:7t'::Le""?her "-t t^"-"^--

«;e -one or brie. .rnet:. J^IZ;. dti! ^ ^.S

The leadin, Cht,rch of En,,a^^"f ^^ it rfrriZ:
d I f!' 'o^b*^ P™'"! of. The Roman Catholic Cathe-

there are many other notable edifices

and pre'semtTItr "?^""'' """' '''" "''' '^'' ^-'^'^
P esenting- a most modern appearance. In 1877 St

ci::^ --P«. ">- ,rea. fire, and from its ashes! sea

ppe ran'ce Th" t ' '"" '" ""'" """ »"" ■""- ""^ "'

stTc r- thl e.:'d"""" """^^^'°"^^ '-^ °' -oo^len
- ", the second, as It e.xists tod.iy is a modern.

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'^usflinKS thriving., progressive city, with electric cars ^.s
•and electr.c ,„ht and nossessing in a word, every advllta^
to be found u, any moderate sized city.

To give any idea of the export trade of St. J '„,, would
-occupy ^ore space than , can afford, but all variLe 'o p"^
duce are sh.pped u, great quantities. To give a hint o 1
.cepfon of the great lumber ^ade carried ofat S . ^ , ,'

Z!nV:- ""?" ^^-P-fi-1 feet of deals and^-!^ L t
exported tor the threu ears Mr.- q ^ o "

this include, only .ho^e .xno u. , [TT '?' '^'- '""

considerable quKn'i.h'.^Z ,:»?"""," , '"'"'' "
In .Sr.^ fu ^ ^ '^ c .istward direct on.

In .895 there were exported to transatlantic ports lao 4.6
■948 superficial feet; in iSo(, thk h^.i i29,4.b -

9/0. wh.k^ .n,S97,the amount had increased to 345, =3^ ;V,s

world The ,r . '"■''"' -"'"PP"'^' P""^ "' ""*

" The transporlal.on o, this Icm Ser to St. John is

rendered eu., hy ,„e thoroui,h„e. with which the tv,
o„,al Radway „„d Canadian PaciHc Railway tap

porlions 01 the Proiince Thi.. i„ n

of liard won, 1 '"""■. ."^'S "• usually true in the ca.sc
„:,""' ''"^' quant.lies of whid, are shipped by the

.a I tl e ™nou.s water ways have much to d. wi h the ease

-..h wh.ch spruce lu.nfcr reaches the citv. In the mn,edi
. e v,c,n,ty are ,na„y poir.ts of interes ti .h,. travellerrone'

ol into th ,, r """•■'■ ™'''' ' "'""if'' » "»'-™" "or^-e
eHect.J bv ,t.s hifjh l.des. The tide in the Bay of Kundv
n.ses htgher tl, ., the lower levels of the River St. John he
result be,ng that, though a, low water, the stream ruse
outwaru , rouj^h the ,orge; at high water it rushc, almo
a fearlessly tnward, renderl ,- a passage from h.rbo, Mo

'harbour nnpossible at this , ,iod in the tide. Vessels
.pass n,rou,h readily, however, a. slack water. Th 1 b

•»e found in the vicinity of St. John.

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THE KENNEBRCASIS VALLEY.

The Kennebecasis River is a very remarkable back-water
empty.ng into the St. John River but a short distance from'
the city of St. John itself. It opens in on the east side of
the above mentioned river, flowing: clown from a northeaster-
ly direction, its head-waters comin^^ trom a rid^^e down the
other or northeast side of which flows the Petitcodiac River
system to the head-waters of the Bay ot Fundy. The valley
ot the last mentioned river, on account ot the high tide of the
head waters of the Bay of Fundy. shows a great deal of dike-
land formation, wl.ile the former river, which is, in compari-
•son, very little aff^ected by the tides, shows none of the lon.^
silted prairies we found in the other river vallev. It is hardly
just to call the Kennebecasis a river in the strict sense of the
word; ,t .s rather a drowned vai'ey into which a few small
streams flow. Though only some eighty miles in length to
Its head-waters, near its mouth it is, in places, three miles or
more m width, and attains a depth of nearly two hundred
teet. Its shores near the mouth, especially on the north
side, are high and rugged and wonderfully picturesque It
-s dotted with islands, some of them several square miles in
area, and forms a beautiful basin for boating and aquatic
sports generally. There are courses that can be marked out
along the lower stretches of this so-called river, which if
would be hard to equal in the world, for shell racing.

One of the most beautiful sails in New Brunswick, is to
take a steamer from St. John and spend the day winding in
and out through the Kennebecasis until Hampton is reached
which is only twenty miles from St. John bv rail. A few
miles from St. John, after crossing the boundary into Kings
county, Rothesay and Riverside, two beautiful little stations
situated on the shores of the Kennebecasis are reached
Though only twenty minutes ride from the city, these places
are both situated on the great inland basin and are rapidly
becoming the favorite summer resort of people living in the
citv.

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As we proceed up the valley, .several stations are passed

torrted to them. Qu.spamsis and Nat.wigewaak are t«o

wh,ch come mider this classification. -re t«o

One has but to travel fifteen or twenty miles alonsr the

ntercolonial Railway In a„ easterly direction from sC Jo
to note the remarkable chanj^e that comes over the Lntr
By the t,me that Nauwi.-ewaak is reached, the La ni^n
..nd Cambrmn systems have disappeared with their lime

uarrtes and quaint lime kilns, and the rugged scener rf
the lower Kennebecasis has been replaced by fs tvp cTflrst
class far,mns land as can be found anywhefe. Th r.ilwav
o ows the course of the river, and, as one travels tr.!
.1^ country near harvest time, on every hand over the gradu
a , s „pn,g h,lls stretch away fields of grain, with here a I
lee the green patch where some root crop shows to advan-

r nteJvt r/ "^!" ,"'""» '"°"K 'he edge of the beauti.
'«! mterval land found throughout the whole „t the upper
port,o„ o, the «„ley of the river, as is also the case a ou ^

ma, S . John. Along the valley of the latter river the inter-
wl land ,s one of the chief sources of wealth to the farme .

.hrouehtr,r""°" ■"' *" '"''"'' ''""• "herever fo.ntd
hro ghout the provuKe, is practically self-sustaining, as is
.he case w,th the nrarshes influenced by the tides of the Bav
of l-undy. In the latter instance, however, the tide is th
. t-ency through which the natural manuring is carried on
■le .n the case of the intervals, the floocL which cLpo U
.l.e ever-renewed fertile coating, as surely as the spr ,

b it b. " """ •"" "■''™' ^"^'"'f ^"""*'"''i .he result
being that every r.ver ,s swollen and muddy, and ru.hino-

tibeira ;;: °"^"""-^ '"^ ^'^"" -^•-^'-^ "f "" - 1

«™ ch it ; ,r "T" -™ "'°"'^- ■"' •" "ep-i' 'he »oii

Though the upland in the Kennebecasis valley is of
«cellent quality, it does not equal that of Carleton Cotmt, ,

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MadawT' ""'^^-^'^P^^ ^'^^'^^ -f Silurian land found in
Madawaska, V.ctona and Resti^^ouche Counties. From
gu.spams.s up to the extreme head-vvaters ot Stone's Brook
vvhjch .tself ,s the head-uater of the Kennebecasis river, the
valley ,s wonderfully fertile, and forms one of the fines
tarmmg communities in the province

Along the line of railway, besides the stations mentioned
before are situated Lakeside, Hampton. Passakeag, Bloom-
field, Norton^Apohaqui. Sussex, Plumweseep and Petbsqui .
Sussex and Hampton are the two largest towns in thevailev
and he forme, of these may be considered as typical of thJ
finest farmu.g sections of this portion of the province
Several secondary valleys run off from the main Kennebecasi;

«th the kennebecasis at Apohaqui, and Smith's Creek and
Trou Creek converging to the same river at Sussex

;r!;r::::;:^^'^^^"-^''--^--------eyseach

The Town of Sussex, situated on slightly risine .rround
«n the South side of the Kennebecasis rivl. [he strfa^n Z
bemg but comparatively small, is as typical alarming centr
probably, as c^, be found anywhere in the world. From.,;
Is on either side of the valley, the town with its white
houses and numerous church spires, shows up to good ad^
vantage nesthng am«,^ the trees that here form such t

-that can be ,magn,ed. .-rom *e Knoll, as one of the liM
back of the town is called, the roads can be seen rad atint
n every d.rect.on ; some cross the intervals, and some un
over r,s,„g ground into the nearby valleys, and everyJhe
nned and shaded by enormous trees. Over the whol inte
va , wherever we look, are dotted the elms, the most pro„i„.
ent feature of tnterval scenery throughout the Province
The greater number of these trees are the American elm a
tre wh,ch a,.a,ns somewhat greater heigh, than doe, i,^
Brtt.sh cous.n, and is fully as graceful. Some of them stal
alone whtle o.hers form pic.ures,ue groups, sca^Te' a^
paren.l, irregularly .hroughou. the intervals while the course

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re»ull is that there isev! ^ '' "'"" ""^^- '"■^- The

™i.in„ both ?:: „,:, r;:;',::*::;:; ^ ""-■'"■^ ''-^-

Unfortunately, up to the'p e.,:, i„f' ^^7 '"T"'
attention has been Mirl f, ^ . '". ■"""• ."" very little
the market, annh .^ h t T? -*- ""f or mutton for
done in a r«her Stor ' '" "'tempted, having been.

.cod rasuitfa: m res':::;:;:';! ''""' """ "-^^^"'^'^

.He sort attempted in a hath .ed ^^ "l:,";'' T'""' "^
.ew years ago, practically the same thTng co d be' T'
gardmgthe dairying industrv h „ ""' '''=-

anyc„„siderable'att!ntio, w^s.i „":: I'"' ""'" '«" """

Government. Before .hat .ime" hingth t'Za^T' '^ "^
done privately, and as is nc. n '" *^ ^''^^ ^^^ done, was

<ii.icns, .as L, do^e-;; „ ir ?.;'vr o::"" ^"'^'' ™"-

realising the importance which he i„du« "'"'"'• "^'"

>o attain, took several step vhLh T " r''" ""'""""'y
.he work on a better fooZ ' "Iculated to put

^--. was that TZ'rZ 0;;:;; eTar cle^r^' "^
uere established, and that number i " i "realt w 1 """
>^^us rapidity. Nowhere in the Provi ,ce r "^ "'^"''■

Gaining methods been taken to more k indh th" '™!""""
Hon of Kinc, Coimt,. , ^ • ''"'" '" 'His por-

-id, ..Sussex mav h ' '• ," °"' *'"'" f"™" ^"-'.ly

^-.«^>.:...re;^vi::e::t::tr:::r."'^^^->-'
.o.hr^:;;^r:;;::;™rrir':?rrf"°"

.0 dairying, the possibilities of this b a" ch ^f ' ""'"•■"

Province, as indicated from th: ej t, ha™h"°" '"k "'
chtamed in St.ssex alone, are sintply en^Jmous '"" ''''"

This ins.i,t,tion, one o'f tl fi 'e^t b.t.er,;::'"' °-''V'""'"'-

"< Canada, has done a great deal ,0 e ' T" '"'"'"''

.he proper methods f\T ° "™"^ "'" '''™'^'- '<>

PP methods. E>eryo,mceof milk which is bought

<r^i

^vhich are needed bv the T^ '"^' '"^P'^"^-'"t,s

the tr.W, -. •''"'^^'" '■''^" ^'-^ obtained in the town

ht.ad.sn.an cater.n,. especially, as nu.st necessarily be t e
case to the wants of the tillers of the soil

Another aid ,o ,he farmer is ,he "Co-operative I-arnter"
.. newspaper published in Sussex, and devoted to th u".
ests of farming in the Province.

- rn, lands ,n thus v.cnitv, it will be necessarv to drive son,e
dtstance both up and down the main vallev; and-alscl
some of the .s,de valleys. The drive leaving s:ssex 1" d

u it ; f" """ '° «'' =" ?'""' inception of the

c|ual,ty of farms throughout the valley. N'o sooner is ,1,!

extep the legal one ex.sts, than the interval stretches a„.„v
.or mdes down river, bounded on each side b, hj .e U e
lope o. the hi Is which, as far as can be seen, are aim
M1.V under cult.vation. The road leads to the river Td
hnally crosses „ a. a picturesque point, several fine fa; s
He.nff met w,th before the river is reached. Immed ate t o,
™ss,n,- the bridge, a solid looking brick house" rtld
w a caster of ba™s, and al, shaded by big elms anj w, 1
ows. Mr Jesse Prescott, the gentle.nan wh , owns the
.arm on wh.ch this house is situated keeps between fit' • -1

« eto ,1 ' ■■' ""''""f^-"^-'" " very considerable in-
come to the.r owner. .Another excellent farm as we drive

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down ,he valley, dirocly abu,» on this, and beyond this
another, and so on, without the interruption of anv uncleared
.rea for many mile,,. The farm, are all compara'tivelv Iar!e
n> th.s secfon, varyinsr from perhaps eighty acres toV.vet
SIX hundred or liir^^er. "ve or

Natu^dly the finest time of year to get a ,.ood idea of the
crops ,,s just as the hay is being harvested, about the
niKldle of August. From everywhere comes the sound of he
-ow.ng mach.ne, and wherever one locks there is hav; hav
s.andmg, hay m windrows, hay in c„cl<s. Now on the left
two mow,ng machines are working their way over some big
field on the nuerval, while beyond, a tedder, driven bv ^
sman boy, goes chcku,g its way, sending a cloud of h'alf-
dr.ed grass ,nto the air behind it. Here a more experienc d
.nd,v,dual w„h an able horse, whose coat glistens under he
M fluence of good feed, is using a rake, while farther on a pair
of stout look,ng shires drag a creaking, rattling hay car
bHif-fllled w,th sweet smelling grass, into a poiion where
more cocks are thrown on. ■ »nere

On the places of the less fortunate farmers, who do not
possess tedders, the whole family is out, each with 7Z
turmng over the Iragrant grass that has fallen bu, a lit.ie
whde betore Here and there the stretch of hav is interr p
ed by a patch of twelve or fifteen acres of oats, 'rapidly rip ' .
ng-.„der the n.fiuence of .he August sunlight, a' ,d 'be/oV.d
ym the more br.lhant green of a do.en acres of buck-
w heat shows up to advantage. On the right of the road the

drive^r' " !;'""■'""'■'= ""-■ f"nn-hot,se is passed as one
dr,ves along. Now a patch of carrots alternating with per-
haps a few acres of turnips and these again with so„,e other

th inaT 'T r- ^"' ^^f "'-■'> »"- 'o thrive splendidly in
Ins natural garden. Here and there a young orchard will
form a promment feature of some farm

sort '^hT'" b"'""*'' "■■ ^'"' """ '""""• ''"'" ■•"!»"'? °f ^'"y

Val Iv ,7" 7' '"'"" "''''"''"' "' '■"= Kennebecasis
\ -illej, and ,t ,s only w.thin the last few years that this most

.mportan. and lucrative branch of farming has received -^

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opinion. Ihis ,,ortion of ,|„. ,;„,„'„ "'■"• '" '''"

inun.phs in ih, ,„„„ i;,,^, "=' ''^ .1'- •■•>:l>ifv.d l,i.

■"^•".v thousands or , .a, , , T'' '" "'^' l"''»"»'"- "f

■-' >'i.i> ei.o ;i,;;;::,rt :;;m" '"-: - "r 7-"-

<-s.-clas.s frui,. i. s„o„ld become , T" """" ''"■

«.n:::^:r;:—-;::r-,;t7 :»""--, d,b.

side valleys which r„n huo' i, Vb ™ ?' ^""' ""^

portions of the land wot U„o b":r''""'"" ''""'^•

some others, but the in^e 1 I ,, : iiT '"' ""''" "^ ■•'^'-"

"Hi average, none of tl „t'e • ',"" ■'"' '"■"■ " *-"'"•

Oeterioration thron.b abso ,t e".; , 'ZZr'r'"

«Ses published bv the Dentrtm „,,,', *^ """ ""'"■

'" potatoes, in Ki„ ^■„„„„. ' ''^'^" '" l""'! P^mted

>i>in, an average :f on. :;;::;:-^,;X«-«''^^-'>-.

tilt case ol barley, trom 288 acre.s

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Sciences
Coiporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. )4580

(716) 872-4503

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planted, 5,883 bushels wore obtained, an averag-e ot 20.4 to
the acre. Oats, from 14.755 acres were obtained 347,041
bushels, an averag-e 01-23.5 bushels per acre. From 793 acres
ot wheat, were obtained ,0,098 bushels, an average of only
127 bushels per acre, while St. John Conntygavean ave.age
of22 bushels per acre in the same year. This average was
probably due more to intelligent farming than to any other
cause.

All these returns, as indicated in the repo-t, are re-
markably low, compared with what is considered a good crop
by the best class of farmers. For instance, 30 bushels ot
uheat to the acre is considered an excellent crop, as is 60
bushels ot oats, and other things in the same proportion.
In the case ot roots, from 800 to 1,000 bushels of turnips
■s^not considered extraordinary, though this is decidedly
above an average crop. Again, all through this portion of
the country, as, for that matter, is the case with other parts
ot the Province, many other classes of produce for which there
IS an excellent and a steady market, are to a great extent
It not wholly, neglected. Take, for instance, the case of
small fruits; these are neglected almost entirely. Vegetables
such as salsify, Brussels sprouts, kohl . -.bi, chives
cabbage, cauliflower, tomatoes, parsnips, and their like
are only raised in sufficient qualities tor domestic use
though even the most delicate of them, with a little care
mature perfectly in this favored situation. It would seem
that there must be some well defined reasons for the lack of
enterprise which has been exhibited in matters of the sort, and
undoubtedly they are. One of them, applicable everywhere
in this country as in others, is the fact that the majoritv of
Farmers have been slow to realize that, like everything else,
farming is a profession in which a man needs as thoroi.gh
trammg as in any other. Another reason is the fact that
livmg is here so easy ; a man having but to cut his hay and
to sell It to eke out an existence, if such can be called living.
This tended to create a ,/o/cr Jar uiente, which has had too
potent an influence. A third factor that may have been in-
strumental in damping a farmer's ideas as far as elaborate

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work is concerned, is, that the market has, on account of the
high protection in the United States to a great extent, and
the comparatively limited character of the local market, not
been sufficiently large to warrant operations on a more ex-
tensive scale than he had previously undertaken them. Now,
Jiowever, things have changed, and the British market is
virtually becoming closer every day, as finer lines of steam-
ships are being put on the route between British ports and
•St. John, ,\ B.

The Kennebecasis valley is especially well situated for
raising produce in large quantities for the British market.
Through its whole length, with numerous stations, runs the
Intercolonial Railway, with many trains a day passing in both
directions. Sussex is but forty miles from St. John, a little
over an hour's run under ordinary circumstances and includ-
'Jng stops. This being the case, it can be readily seen that
shipment of produce could nowhere \-<.. carried on more
readily, but a single change being necessary after it is placed
on the car.

Let us now look a little more closely at the conditions
.as they actually present themselves in this section of the
country. Again leaving Sussex, let us drive, we will say,
in an easterly direction up the valley. As soon in this case,
as we strike the limits of the town, the same panorama of
farms stretches before us as when driving in the opposite
direction. This, however, is true irrespective of the road
you take. Now we will come to a farm-house, set well back
from the road and surrounded by willows, elms, butternuts
and one or two other varieties of shade and ornamental trees.
Here and there a few Lombardy poplars will suggest some
parts of France, and again the thick, wavy-edged leaves of
the oak recalls another country very much dearer to the
Canadian. English and Canadian oaks here grow side by
side; an elm or two, with an occasional willow will stand out
in the centre of some great field oc oats, that by the middle
of August, is yellowing at the approach of harvest time.
Beyond them, again, are fifteen or twenty acres of land, from
which the hay has been cut. and which is now covered with

a luxuriant growth of clover after-feed; and now another
farm-house, this one perched on a little eminence, and sur-
rounded entirely by Lombardy poplars. Sloping- away from
its front, is a few acres of wheat, on the other side of which
a field of carrots and turnips is to be seen with three or four
acres of corn for the silo. Just inside the fence, and running-^
along- near the road for three or four hundred feet, lies a
patch of squash and pumpkins, these part for fodder and part
for domestic use. Passing- these, on the day I have in mind
we came to afield of oats, which showed up remarkably well,
so well that I got my assistant to stand in them while I got
a photograph to give some idea of their height. A few days
after, when we traversed the same ground, the reaper was at
work, and the oats lay thick on the ground in one part of the
field, while in another, they were up in stocks. Later we
came to a patch of wheat, which was especially fine, and of
which I also got a photograph. The wheat of which I am
now thinking, J afterwards learned, thrashed about thirty
bushels to the acre, and from this patch came part of New
Brunswick's contribution to the Paris exhibition.

We drive on through scenes of this sort, until, near the
road, puflfing white jets of steam into the clear August sun-
light, we come to a cheese factory which is struggling with
the products of half a thousand cows, endeavouring to get
through before the lot of the next day comes in. Now, more-
fields of oats and then one of barley, and again, more Indian
corn. We round a bend in the road and come on a comfort-
able looking homestead, from behind which slopes down an
orchard of a thousand or more young apple trees. Some
questions put to the owner, who exhibits a pardonable pride
in them, showed that they were but five years old and all
giving a considerable yield. Several different varieties are
represented; King of Tomkins Co., New Brunsvvicker, and a
tew of the ancient favourites from the grower's point of view,
but more or less worthless Ben Davis, which, as the owner
said, were a great success as a selling apple, insomuch as
they would keep for all time, and could be sold for a hand-
some price, when no other apple was obtainable. "But""

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he said, "personally I should prefer i^owg without any; but
.still, If people have a taste for dried sponj,^e.s dipped in a little
vme^rar and water, why I should be the last one not to allow
them to have them." This was not a compliment to the Ben
Davis as an eating apple, but, as the ^-entleman said, a few
barrels of them were always a great financial success. Then,
there were other apples with very different reputations and
also very different flavours. There were a moderate number
of thnviny: specimens of that king of all apples, the Graven-
stem, which probably a little care would succeed in raising
as satisfactorily in New Brunswick as anywhere else, despite
some assertions to the contrary.

From here we drove on and took a road that would
ultimately lead us back to Sussex; and now comes a change
ot scene. From the right side of the road, stretches a field
of perhaps twenty acres, from which the hav has been cut,
and on which a good after-teed has been developed. Here
thirty or forty cattle are ea»ing; some lying under the big
elm trees or complacently switching their tails and chewing
their cuds; others are moving around to find the spots where
the grass is the tenderest, and still others are standing knee-
deep in a brook that flows through the field, and beneath,
the cool shade of some willow, are switching away the flies
The majority of them are Ayrshires, and fine looking cattle
they are, with here and there a number of Holsteins and an
occasional Jersey.

Probably nowhere in the world can more ideal condi-
tions for successfully raising cattle be found than this very
section that we are now studying. One of the best illustra-
trations of this can be seen in, for instance, the quantity of
maize that can be readily raised in New Brunswick.

I stopped one day near Sussex and took a picture of
what I considered a typical row of fodder corn. The variety
was Pierce Prolific, and the average yield, according to the
proprietor of the farm, was fifteen tons per acre. This, of
course makes an excellent element in first-class ensilage. '

Several men, whose farms I visited, had herds of from,
thirty to forty milch cows, from which they would take in.

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perhaps from 700 to 800 pounds of milk a day to the Pro-
vincial Dairy School.

With well-built barns, calculated to keep the cattle warm
during- the New Brunswick winter, which is very consider-
ably colder than is that of Kn^'land, there is no difficulty in
keeping the cows in splendid condition throughout the year.
It may be as well 10 say in passing, that very little
indeed in the way of raising sheep or hogs rs done in the
Kennebecasis valley, though, of course, the advantages for
this branch of farming .an also be readily appreciated.

THE PROVINCIAL DAIRY SCHOOL,

To one who wishes to get a fair idea of the extent to
which the dairy industry, in this particular section has ex-
panded in the last few years, and also to obtain a look at
iiome of the farmers from the surrounding country, it is onlv
necessary to turn up at the Provincial Dairy School between
daylight and sunrise on some fine summer morning. Perhaps
before the first rays of the sun have shot over the uplands,
■clearing the land fogs out of the little valleys and lighting
up the feathery elm trees, the first of the long line of wag-
gons, which bring the milk from every direction in the
surrounding country, will come clattering down the road,
with five or six big cans of milk in behind, and will wheel in
under the portico and up to the door where the milk is taken
in and where the scales are situated; and almost simultane-
ously with the arrival of the first waggon, the hum oi the
engines inside will start, accompanied by the whiz of the
separators. In a few minutes, waggons will be seen coming
from every direction, and inside the Dairy School, everything
will spring into activity. The big cans are passed in and
weighed, and then out and into the waggon again, and the
man drives around to another door to get his skim-milk and
take it off" home with him.

Sturdy, sun-burnt, strong looking men they are, with the
•healthfulness engendered of the Northern climate, with its

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^parklinp, clear, cold winters, and its summeis full of fresh-
ness and free from malaria. They are iin.. - Americans;
they are unlike Knjr|ishmen; they are a distinct type, lar^'er
then either the former or the latter, temperate, for the most
part industrious, and normally (iod-f jarin^r. Throuj^'hout
the Maritime Provinces the farmers are hospitahle, and as a
rule, generous.

In a little while, as wo wait, a lon^' row of wat,'<,rons
turn up with their cans of milk, and their respective ovniors
are husy conversing' about crop prospects, yacht-racing.
horse-racing, or any other subject of local or 'internationtil
interest that rv.r^y be alloat. The average New Brunswick
farmer is intollijrent, and, I am thankful to sav, becoming
more so a. time goes on and ' ,at rap" My. He is a great new.^-
paper reader, and takes a keen interest in things both across
the water and across the border, as well as in his own country.
In a little time the row of w.^i^^oas e.xtends three-
quarters of the way around the building, covers part of the
spacious yard in front of the factory, and the last arrivals
occupy positions in the procession which reaches well out into
the street beyond. Hy this time the early birds ;.r- getting
their cans filled with skim-milk, and are starting again on
their way towards home, with the sun hardly half an hour
UP. Finally, by between eight and nine o'clock the last team
is .<;one, the milk is all skimmed and the creamery is running
full blast, with jets of steam pufling out of diflerent orifices'",
from the churns, and so forth.

To give some idea ot a representative New Brunswick
factory, I herewith give a lew selected portions from the
description given of the Provincial Dairy School, in the
report of the Department of Agriculture of the Province for
1898. ' Since then such extensive changes and alterations
have been made, that the description no longer applies, (oc
in the interim a cheese-making plant has been installed, and
the capacity of the factory generally, very much increased:

"III the wintir of 1893.94 a few young: men visited the Dominion
W inter Dairy Station in Sussex, for the purpose of j-etting some insight
into the factory butter-making business, then being introduced in the

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Maritime Provinces. The following winter .here was a further demand

'"„:/?""'"'. ?' ^'■^'- J- ''■ '^°''-'-'"- D-'--" Dairy Com :
•> oner, arranj^ed that instruction should be given in the Sussex f.n

; e"h^ portion of March and April, .8,5' The iln T^ .^^rZ
JJ.i'ry staff. Some fifty students attended the school.

Datv n ^ Robertson and Harvey Mitchell of rhe Provincial

Da.ry Department. The Provincial Government also encourard e

:^t:z"' ''''''"'' '-'- -"^'''^ «^ '^'"^^ County, bv ,;: x^
loir ':;:r ^- j:" r-^ •!- -'- - — '■^---^•^

Ik char^^^^^ ^™r""r' "^'•-•--•"^ -'• Agriculture. Mr.'Mitchel,

00k charge of the school, and was assisted by Mr. J. E. Hopkins of
U.e Domnnon Department of Agriculture, and Messrs. J. F. TiUe Lc

edito; of't' r ^'"'^' •"""■•:: •'^""-'"^-^''->- ^r. U- W. Hubbard
editor of the 'Co-operative Farmer." also gave a course of lectures
upon Anmjal Husbandry. ">m or lectures-

.-t af In'Iu'd T ;'' "'""' '"^ '^"^ '"'" '" ^^ •'-'^'"'^-hi.h was.
■ ^t at all suited to the purpose, and it was felt each year bv the-
^ mstructors that some change should be made. This change cunl-
about through the action of the patrons of the factory, who felt Zt
hey would prefer to run their factory business on the cci;perativ^ p an
with a buildmg and plant of their own. • • • ^e pian,

"The suggestion thai the Provincial Government should erect the-
Da.ry School Budding was warmly seconded bv the Hon. C H
LaBdlo.s, Commissioner of Agriculture, and the 'Government invited
t. .Klers for the erection of a suitable building.

"When the Provincial Government agreed to erect the building, the-
associated patrons, under the name of "The Sussex Cheese and B^.tter
Company, agreed to provide a site for it and a suitable plant, and now
vve have n, ,he combined property at Sussex, the building which i..
equipped with an up-to-date plant.

"The building is a neat wooden erection with a covered d.ive-wav
thirteen feet in width over the milk-receiving platforms, a veranda o^,
Uu end facing the road, and an ice house, ,8 x ,8 feet at the back end.
The ground floor of the building covers a surface of 5s x 7, feet
-he mam building being 35 x 75 with a lean-to on the east side, in which
the boiler and engine and butter-making machinery are located. Cold
storage is htted up in accordance with the specifications supplied by
the_ Domunon Departmen' of .Agriculture. Refrigeration is acco.n-
piisncd by the galvanized cylinder and ice and salt method.

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"On the first floor Is a lecture room and a large cheese-curing
room w.th a hoist for lifting cheese from the making r Jom below The
bu.ldmg .s steam-heated and finished in natural wood throughout. The
floor .n the making room is of best quality rifted spru.e^and cann
sphnter The walls and ceilings are of clear spruce sheathing and
mshed w.th o. and varnish. There are roomy wash-rooms and c.os:ts'
and no effort has been spared to make the building a model of its kind.
Steam ,s furn.shed by a thirty horse-power boiler, and power from a
ten horse-power engine. The churns and butter-workers are of the
best makes. .A 3,000 pound Alpha DeLaval Separator skims the milk,
never leavmg enongh fat to be read on the special skim-milk bottles of
the Babcock test.

"The cheese-making outfit is now being installed and will be of
sufficient capacity to acconnnodate 20,000 pounds of milk per day.
Ihe dramage system from the factory is very complete; a main sewer
ot vUnfied p,pe w.th various branches, conveys all the waste into the
centre of the swiftly-flowing Wards Creek."

The above description will apply fairly well to the larger
of the butter and cheese factories throughout the Province
and all, on account of the interest taken in them by the Pro-
vincial Government, are rapidly increasing in efficiency.

In 1897 the number of factories to be found throughout
the Province -vas 49, while in 1898 the number had risen to
55- In the former year there were i ,209 farmers taking milk
to these factories, while in 1898 the number of patrons had
increased to 1,569. an increase of 360 in the single year
The quantity of milk rose from 11,280,067 to 15,838,042
pounds, an increase of 4-557.995 pounds in the same time.
The quantity of cheese increased from 1,107,281 pounds to
1,540,418 pounds, an increase of 433. 137 pounds in the year.
The value of the cheese manufactured in i8q7 was $99,655.29,
the value of that manufactured in 1898 was $127,-84.48, an
increase in the value for that year of $27,420.19 or about
^ 5,000 sterling. This is a considerable increase tor what
may be considered a new industry. In 1898 the creamery at
Sussex had 75 patrons and consumed 1,425,621 pounds of
milk, and manufactured 146,3.^2 pounds of cheese, using an
average of 9.7 pounds of milk to each pound of cheese
manufactured. The cheese sold at 8 cents (about 4di per
pound.

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^ Twenty two miles farther down the Kennebecasis vallev
•is s.tuated the town of Hampton, the Shiretown of Kind's
County, only 20 miles from St. John. This is also a favoured
situation tor first-class farms. The railroad here passes a
m.le or so tVom the Kennebecasis river, on the shore; of
wh.ch the older portion of Hampton village is situated. Im-
mediately below Hampton, the Kennebecasis suddenlv
widens out into a b.au fu! sheet of water with marshy
•shores known as Darling's Lake, which flows around a con-
s.de,-ab sized island of the same name. Running- down on
th north sHle ot the river, are a series of picturesque ele-
va ions known as the Norton Hills. The most prominent
|-s I ikwaaket mountain, a rather noticeable elevation, which
however, hardly deserves the rather pretentious name which
has been given it.

The view from the top of the mountain, looking in a north-
westerly direction over the village ot Hampton, the Kenne-
becasis as It vvinds through the interval, Darling Lake and
Island, and the numerous little islets which cluster around
the b.gger one, and then across to the hills, at the base of
which runs the Intercolonial Railway is undoubtedly, one o'^
the most beautiful in this part of the Province. From your
ieet stretch fine looking farms both up and down stream.
They are farms, which, as in the case of Sussex ones, are in
excellent state ot cultivation, and nearly all have a consider-
able acreage of interval.

Ha'ypton is very conveniently situated with relation to St

bo!!; h°!r " I '""' ""'''' "^' '' ■'^'^'PP'"^' P-t' being
about half way between that city and Sussex. The rcnons

surrounding this village, however, are fkr less devebped
t^ian IS the case in Sussex, though, as in all other parts of the
Province, the development is now going forward rapidlv.
One advantage that Hampton has is the fact that it is con-
nected wuh St. John by a navigable river, the Kennebecasis
being navigable from this poi-r down. When looking down
•over the valley from the top ot F Rwaaket Mountain, in com-
pany w.th the Deputy Commissioner of Agriculture. Mr.
ihos. A. Peters, I remember his remarking that it would be

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hard to find a more ideally situated sheep-farriT than Darling's
Island, with its large area, fertile soil, short distance from
the railway and inaccessibility as far as dogs are concerned.

Hampton is the seat of several important industries, one
of which is the Ossekeag Stamping Company Ltd., which
manufactures stamped metal goods in large quantities.
There is also situated here, Flewelling's Match Factory
which does a very considerable business, and is beautifully
situated on the bank of the river. The village itself is in-
deed very beautiful ; its situation being almost ideal. Here
are many of the Summer homes of wealthy St. John people,
while one man comes all the way from Paris to spend his
Summers in this delightful situation.

This description, as so far given, has, as before
mentioned in connection with other portions of the Province,
been merely intended to give an idea of the typical appear-
ance, quality and a simple outline of the resources of the
Kenncbecasis valley. The two towns which have been
chosen, and of which these very short descriptions have been
given, were simply so chosen on account of their being the
largest farming communities in this valley, and also because
lack of time prevented my even visiting other sections of the
valley, which, I have no doubt are fully as fine and perhaps
much finer than the sections described.

Norton is a very considerable village, and the other
stations, mentioned earlier, are progressing rapidly. Time
and space have not suffered me to even leave the main line
of railway. There are various branch lines which strike off
from the main Intercolonial railway at different points along
its route: From Hampton the St. Martin's and Upham rail-
way runs to the town of St. Martin's on the shores of the
Bay ot Fundy in St. John County. Another line trom
Norton, the New Brunswick Central, runs north through the
northern part of Kings, and opens up the towns and settle-
ments as far north as Grand Lake in Queens, and new lines
are being added constantly.

Some distance south of Sussex is situated Markhamville,
where is located a considerable deposit of bog manganese,.

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^vhich has been somewhat extensively mined, while in the
northern part of the country is situated the village of Have-
lock, famous for its mineral springs, as, for that matter, is
Sussex itself. Among other stations and villages may be
mentioned Waterford near the extreme eastern boundary of
the country, and still farther ea.t. Mechanics Settlement,
while north of Apohaqui, in the Mill Stream Valley, is situated
Berwick. Directly south of this portion of Kings County
which we have been discussing, lying between it and the sea,
stretches, as a narrow strip, for the most part heavilv tim-
bered and ending abruptly in cliffs three, four and five
hundred feet in height, that face dark and forbidding out on
the wonderful bay, lies the eastern section of St. John
County, a section chiefly valuable, tor the present, for what
timber is to be found on it. From some indications which
have never been exhaustively worked out, it would seem verv
probable that this section of St. John County must turn ou't
mineral deposits of considerable richness. No exception to
the rule that holds in other portions of the Province, this
country is traversed with a great number oi rivers and
streams, the largest of these being the Big Salmon River, all
of whose sources lie in Kings County. Another is the Little
Salmon River, and there are many others of less importance.
One thing that may be said, however, of that long,
narrow stretch of St. John County, extending from the cily
eastward to the boundary of Albert County, is the fact that',
in its numerous lakes and streams, excellent fishing can be
obtained; the trout fishing throughout this region being, in
many cases, very fine indeed. The largest of the lakes in the
county is Loch Lomond, some four miles in length. This is
one of a system of three lakes, the other two being smaller.
Otter Lake is another of the larger lakes in the county. Ball's
Lake, but a few miles from ihe city, being about the same
size. These with some of the wilderness lakes, have, for a
long time, furnished excellent fishing, and those in the
eastern portion of the county are very little troubled bv the
angler.

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THEST. JOHN RIVER VALLEY AND THE VALLEYS OF ITS

TRIBUTARIES.

Among: the sections oi' New Hriinsvvick that I have al-
ready spokon of is the eastern slope, comprisiiij,'- a very
considerable area of land, ihroiiyfhoul which the tarniinj,--
varies hut little in qiudity and -nethod ; the Hay oi' l''undy
rejfion, comprisinf,' all that portion affected directly by the
abnormally high tides of this remarkable body of water, the
Kennebecasis V^alley, includiiii,'- the maj^-nificent farming,' sec-
tion around Susse>( and H.unpton and the other smaller
towns of the dlev. and finally the St, John river rej^ion.
This latter, j,Tt...er than all the others in area and of a won-
derful fertility is, perhaps, the most prominent feature, either
from a physiographical or agricultural standpoint, that the
province possesses. The St. John River, taking its rise in
the State of Maine and flowing through nearly half a thou-
sand miles of a beautiful territory, has a large number of
tributaries. There are but few large or \ery important
tributaries. The St. Francis. Fish River and Madawaska
drain great lake regions along its upper waters, as is also
the case with the .Aroostock, running from the State of
Maine and opening in on the west bank of the Saint John
River in Victoria Count} . But a short distance below the
Aroostock the Tobique — the most famous salmon stream of
this portion of the Province, flowing through \'ictoria County
from the northeast, the greater portion of its length being in
that County — meets the St. John but a short distance above
the town of Andover, the shire town of the county. And-
over and its immediate vicinity embodies 'most an ideal
situation for an up river farming country. The intervals are
not as large as further down stream. They are, howe»'
remarkably fertile, and the up-land in this region is full
fine as that further south in the well-developed County oi
Carleton, and further north, where the magnificent silurian

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aron sweeps throt,«:h Ma.Ia..a.ska. northern \'ictoria and
Resf^.ouche. No other river of importance, unless the
Meduxnai<ea^Mvhich do s i„ from the western side at Wood-
stock ,n Carleton County can be considered such, is to be
ioutul, until at Fredericton we come to the mouth of the
I\ashwaak, a considerable stream flowing in from a northerly
direction and drainin^^ the northern portion of the Co.mty ot
^ ork. l-ourtoen miles below Fredericton.in Sunbury Counts-
>he beautiful little river of Oromocto, enters almo.st directly
from the south, and at its mouth is situated the shiretown of
the County, a villa^a> of that name. In gueen's Counlv
some forty odd miles f.om the mouth of the St. John the
(.rand I.ake system empties into the river throu^^h a little
thoroughfare known as the Jemsej^. The Jemsejf hardlv de-
serves the name of river. There is but little outflow from it
Its head waters not bein- very considerable. The larjrest o'
all the tributaries of Grand Lake is the Salmon River, How-
ing north-eastward from its sources in the absolute wilderness
of the western part of Kent County. The Canaan River.'
ansmg: m Westmorland, broadens out into the long- lake-like
expansion of the Washademoak which flows into St. John
five or SIX miles below the Jemseg. This, like the last
tributary flows from a north-easterly direction, as is also the
case of the next one. if it can be called such,
namely, the Beileisle. The Belleisle is hardlv more than a
lake-hke expansion of the river, rather in the nature of a
back-water, and for this reason has generally been known as
a bay. ^ The last of th. important tributaries connects with
the mam river about four miles above the city. This is the
Kennebecasis. the peculiar stream to which I have already
referred. All the tributaries from the Grand Lake to the
mouth of the river are really 'ake-like expansions, in and out
of which the tide ebbs and flows, the current hardly seemin-
to move faster in one direction than in the other. Beginning
with St. John, the river flows through and drains to a certain
extent, the following cou-ities: St John. Kings, Queens
Sunbury, \ ork, Carleton, Victoria and Mauawaska. Leavin-

the

magnificent harbour of St. John and

going over to thQ

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river port, known as Indiantown, a steamer can be taken
durwg the season the river is open, up to Fredericton, eighty'
four miles above St. John. Fredericton is situated in York
County and is the capital of the Province. In the spring and
early summer, when the river is in flood, small steamers run
between Fredericton and Woodstock, sixty miles further up
■ ^itream. Through the latter portion of the summer, however
and during the autumn these steamers have to be generally
discontmued, on account of the low water in the river The
sail from St. John to Fredericton is. indeed, a very beautiful
one; the scenery constantly changing, both as to tvpe and
variety. The geographical formation in the region of St
John is Laurentian and Cambrian, and jusi above the
city the river runs between comparatively higi, cliffs of .rray
and white limestone. Below and around Indiantown" are
situated the large lumber mills that cut the greater part of the
millions ot feet of lumber which are shipped from St John
and for which the logs come down, some of them, almost the
whole length ot the St. John River. As soon as you are free
ot the smoke from the dump piles of these mills, the fir^f por-
tion of the river has its chance to impress vou. The Lime
Kilns are situated practically everywhere and in apparently the
most inaccessible positions. Many feet below them are their
loading wharves, at each of which a wood boat or schooner
IS generally lying. Afcer one or two sharp bends the stream
straightens out, and the land becomes somewhat lower on
.each bank, ending in a rather abrupt cliff at th^. mouth of the
Kennebecasis. The sharp headland on the right bank of the
nyer is known as the Boar's Back. Just opposite the mouth
ot the latter river lies a great expansion of the main stream
known as Grand Bay. The scene is one of sparkling blue
waters, vast rafts of logs, which are cominuailv boomed up
in Grand Bay, of sharp cliffs close at hand,and of rolling hills
beyond, with here and there a lumber mill of some kind"
with Its puffing white steam showing up to advantage against
the green foliage. To the right, one can look far up the
Kennebacasis and in the distance catch a glimpse of Long
islanu, the largest island in that beautiful bay. \ little

b/)

U-

:above this, also on the ntrht bank opens out the mouth of the
."Milkish, just north of Kennebecasis Island. On the southern
side of Grand Bay,, nestling- among the dark green spruces,
stands out a typical St. John River Light House. This is the
■Green Head light. The river throughout is well supplied
with these lights, rendering navigation extremely easy at any
time during day or night. Again, above the great expansion
at the mouth of the Kennebecasis, the river narrows, until
only about one mile in width, where on the right at Sandy
Point is situated another light, this time a little white
structure set far up on a steel tower. P'rom here the village
of Westfield, one of the favorite watering places of this
portion of the Province, is plainly visible on the left bank of
the river. Just at Westfield enters a small and unimportant
tributary of the St. John, which has long been famous as a
canoeing river. The Nerepis, the stream in question is a
beautiful Uttje creek with intervals on each side, throughout
the valley of which runs the Canadian Pacific Railway. At
Westfield, the river takes a sharp turn to the right, running
practically at right angles to its former course. I ts direction or
Row is here south-west, and its course is absolutely straight
for nineteen miles. This is the famous Long Reach, equalled
by only one or two rivers in the world. The sail up this
reach is, indeed, a very beautiful one. The st 'amer now
approaches one bank and now the other, as village after
village is passed. Now, she swings in comparatively close to
a little wharf and is met by a boat bringing out perhaps one or
two passengers. Then she bears awayinto mid-stream again,
passes an occasional island, where a few head of cattle or
sheep are pasturing, and the channel again swings to the right
of that bank. On either side are rolling hills, some of them
attaining a considerable elevation. Near the head of the
"Reach." on the left side of the channel is situated the
"Mistake", a false channel which ends blindly, the long
tongue of land which encloses it being the first typical St.
John River interval land that is met with on the journey up
stream. Just opposite the head of the "Mistake" the beau-
tiful Belleisle Bay opens to the view, and here is found the

first of the interval islands. Throug-hout the whole lower
portion of the St. John there is a ^^reat deal of very valuable
uiterval land m the form of river islands. It is not to be
supposed that there is any great expansion of the river where
these island are found, a narrow channel, as a rule, flowing-
on each side of them.

As we proceed up stream the first of these interval is-
ands of any importance that we meet with is "Spoon
Island, just after crossing- the border into Queens County.
Ih,s Ks a longr low-lying:pieceof interval of alluvial formation
roui,rhly horse-shoe shaped, u ,th the mouth of the bav dow.i
nver. Around the shores, as is usually the case, both on the
"lam la,,d and on these islands, is a heavy growth of elms
and w, lows. On each side of the river stretches the inter-
va and then the gradual slope of the lower uplands, finallv
e.Hhng m considerable hills. As we proceed up river, how-
ever these hdls becon,e lower and lower, until by the time the
mouth of theVVashademoak is reached the countryas far as the
eye can see .s comparatively flat and rapidly becoming tvpical
o he Grand Lake reg.on. Above Spoon Island is the iJrgest
o he nver .slands, "Long Island" by name, situated near the
3. tie village o Wickham ; its entire length is four miles. Just
at the head of Long Island, on the west bank of the river
the steamer calls at the mouth of the Otnabog Lake an ex'
pansion of a little river of that name. Opposite this is
another horse-shoe shaped island, Lower Musquash, and
n.st above this point Upper Musquash Island ii situated
Wuhout exception, the soil of which these islands are com'
posed ,s of the finest quality. It is practically all self-s-s-
tanung mterval, flooding every spring and fall and needim.
no further manuring. Two and a half miles above the head
o bpper Musquash Island the mouth of Gagetown Creek is
w it I •'^'""^^'■^^^"-^ ^^bove Fox Town. Gagetown'.

Co nty. The steamer does not run up to the town but is
met b a large row boat, capable of taking all passengers
a^id baggage, while the boat proceeds on her wav up river
D.rectly across Grimross Neck from Gagetown on the other

I "

■n

-•)

-*— '■

r— *

side of the St. John River, the Jemse^s the outlet of Grand
Lake, flows in. This whole rej,non is a maj^nificent a.ij-ricul-
tural section, and the portion of the river between this point
and Upper Gag-etown, eight miles above, has lony been
famed for the splendid black duck and snipe shooting which
can here be obtained.

Though the land is flat, the scenery throughout th's.
part of the river, far from being uninteresting, is absolutely
beautiful. Nowhere do elms attain a more perfect growth
than along this section of the St. John. Now on one bank
will be seen a little village nestling among gigantic willows,
then on the other side some insignificent streamlet will flow
in, its course to be traced through the intervals by the mass
of foliage that hides it entirely from view. As the steamer
rounds some bend, the long, low, sandy point of some inter-
val island will show itself and off'er alternate channels which
are generally taken on different days. The extent of some
ot the islands is surprising, the level interval covered uni-
formly with its hea\y. waving crop of hay, stretching three,
four and sometimes five miles, without any rising ground,
and dotted with the omnipresent elm. The steamer may
have chosen one of the narrower channels and have pro-
ceeded, perhaps, half or three-quarters of a mile, when ahead
is seen one ot the peculiar low-lying paddle tugs struggling
with an enormous raft of logs, and the passenger boat is-
forced to turn back and seek another path. Then asrain. a
wood-boat loaded ten or twelve feet up the mast, until only
a few feet oi' the bow and stern portions, of the rail are
visible, is seen slowly working her way up stream. .An
occasional scow, sloop rigged, is seen on lier way to St.
John with produce, the greater part of which, however, is
carried down by steamers. "The village of I'pper Gagetown
stretches along for some distance on the west bank of the
river, and three miles above it is Manger's Island, in Sun-
bury County, just opposite which on the right bank is.
situated one of the most beautiful of all the river villages,
ShefBeld. Four miles above this and on the same side of
the river, is .Maugerville, directly opposite Middle Island,

The splendid quality of the land in these islands has had
much to do with the positions which the villaj^'-es were ulti-
mately to occupy. Still, a few miles further up and the
Oromocto is reached, where at the mouth of the river lies
the shiretown of Sunbury Coui.ty, with its quaint, Indian
name, made famous many times in prose and verse.

The character of the river above this chang-es somewhat;
the hills risinj^- a little hig-her as we proceed, and the intervals
decreasing- in extent. The stream runs practically straight
for some eiyht miles in this direction, when the corporation
booms, with their long- row of piers, come in sight. Opposite
tiiem on the left bank of the river are two large lumber mills,
and two miles above this can be seen Fredericton, the capital
of the Province, its spires and domes showing above a perfect
bed of foliag-e. Just opposite the town the Nashwaak river
flows into the St. John. Above Fredericton a larg-e number
of islands are again encountered, the channel, as it winds
between them, being: shallow and in places hardly floating.'
the light-draft steamers that are used in the service along-
the upper portion of the river. Throughout this region
practically everything is cleared, there being excellent farms
on both sides of the river. Somewhat further up, however,
we again come to heavily wooded regions which alternate
with moderate-sized cleared areas through the western portion
of York County.

As must necessarily be the case, the character of the
river throughout its upper stretches becomes very much
altered. The volume of the stream is much smaller, the
result being that the intervals are but small in area and
become more and more widely separated, until by the tu^^e
that Andover in Victoria County is reached there are only
isolated patches of interval land. To offset this disadvan-
tage, however, the upland throughout this section, as has
been reiterated in the course of this description, improves
very much in quality, the land over-lying the upper silurian
formation which extends across the border and goes to make
up the greater portion of the finest farming section in the
New England States— Aroostook County, Maine. New

Brunswick has, however, by far the j^-reater amount ot'
Silurian land in this ref,'-ion.

To describe, with a little more detail, the counties alon^j
the valley of the St. John River: — Kin^js County and eastern
St. John County have been outlined already, especially that
portion of Kinjj^'s embodied in the Kennebecasis \'alley.
I\unninfj parallel with the Kennebecasis, but a few miles
north of it, is the Long' Reacli, of which Belleislc Bay is a
continuation. The rei,'-ion between these two valleys — that
is the main St. John River Valley and the Kennebecasis — is
but of moderate elevation, and the upland, even in this
res^-ion, is of comparatively jjfood quality. As has always
been the case throughout the Province, wherever interval
land was to be found, the more elevated soil has to a great
extent been neglected, on account of the abundance ot
wonderfully rich soil m the river bottoms. Simply because
this higher land is not cleared for the most part is no indica-
tion that it has been fountl unfertile, in the ordinary sense of
the term. It is simply an indication that there is a tremend-
ous area of wonderfully fertile land in close proximity to it.
Wherever this is the case the highlands sufTer. This is not
an unmixed advantage, inasmuch as the tendency has been
for the population to spread in the search of this extraor-
dinary fertile river bottom, the distribution having been
carried on, so that considerable wooded areas have been
left throughout the Province, e\en through the most
closely settled farming districts. The advantage of this
is, of course, almost incalculable, as wood for building
purposes and for fuel can be found practically everywhere,
and the farmer in the most favoured farming districts has
but to spend the time and labour necessary to collect his own
fuel for the winter, very often being able to supply his needs
from the higher portions of his own t'arm.

Throughout the Province the majority of River \'alle\
farms are cleared along the river fronts and for some dis-
tance back, the extreme back portion of the lot being
allowed to remain in wood. The quality of this wood varies
of course, with the section and the soil. In some cases the

7.1

trco, will consist of various specios of hardwood, manle.
b ch beach, ash, bu„er„„. and so for.h. ,„ o,l cr fj^
W.II he a considerable sprinkling, of spruce, l,en,lock ,n, I i
wh,le „, o.her situations the lores, area will eonsis. e , ,'
o. ever-trreens, with, perhaps, occasional birch or m pL^
No. only do many of .he f„rn,ers possess al, .h^ i'r wood
necessary for .heir own use, bu., especiallv in .he ' ,?

t^r TT'"- ^-•'-"-'•■-We,.r;w.l, ofver tsl
nl tnnber. Nowhere in the world is wood for ei.her huild
".jr purposes or fuel more readily ob.ained than is I e , J
■n .h,s lavoured por.ion of ICas.ern Canada. The m re i ,
P"r.ant .owns and cillajtes of Kin^-s Coun.y have b."
men.,oned before. (See l<e..,ebecast VaH f' ' """

QUEENS COUNTY.

The County o( Queens, which abu.s direc.lv on kl,,,
o . e nor.h.vest_thou,h in certain respec, ' r ' .m^K
he former Co.n,ty--has some decided points of diffcrTn I
Queens County may be ron.^hly said to consist of he hi

R l^r'vairv "^tT":" '■'"'''■ -"" """ °f ">-':. ::

MMr valley. The land is very much lower as a Jh i
.an n, Ki,„s County, especially around GraTd LaL 2^
.ere are no considerable elevations. As mentioned T he
Kreneral description of the St. John River Grand 1 11
He considered a great back.w:;ter of th t s" an ..'""^

ood that flows down .he main rive s es r'™,. ^Z

Jemseff and causes the Grand Lake to overHow its ..7^
ot acres of in.erval land. Durin-, .he sorLT^h "'T
...■ .and be.wee„ Grand Lake a^d Th? 2f ^.^ J^t ri'^
and for .ha. ma-er, .he very extensive intervak on ,h<:
|'PPOs,.e side of .he s.ream, are overflowed, and f 1 Ga«
.own one m.iy look across mi' s and miles of ^

dotted here and ihere with the elms tha are 1,7'" ,"'""'
><eep their hold in the face of .he Tpri ' .y ,e l'^^ "^ h"
on. .his low-land re^^ion the entire -ace'of he c 'untr ' ^t^
as the intervals are co,,cer„ed, is changed d ir^g ,het

U-

floods. So tl,oroL,t;l, Hre the fu„,iliar land.m„rks obliterHted
for .he .,„,e bo,„,. ,!,„, even people fan,ni,.r with .he coun.rv
have grea. Chcuhy ■„ .eco,.,!.!,,,. .he real channel of .he
nver. ., he lake i,.elf is ahou. .hir.y n,iles in lcn,..h. N a

s durable ,,„„^ „, ,„„,^.,.,^,^. ^,^^^, set.Iemen.s and villa^-es
a,e .o be found alon,, i.s banks. 1 . varies in wid.h from fonr
to between s,. and seven „,iles, and into i. flow numerous
small creeks and brooks. Its n.ain trib.narv, Salmon Rl,;:

which irTffl """""'"" "'"^' "'""■'« "•'>> Salmon Bav!
wh,ch ,.self flows ,n.o the north-eas, arn, of the lake. Weie
.1 no. for .he grea. fer.ilit,. „f „,, surro. ndin^. land and the
Inxurtance o, growth which clo.hes every part of i. wi.l
elms the scenery would he rather unin.eres.injf, but, as it is
a sa,l .hrough Grand Lake by stean.er, which I-onn cts t J

Zesr"V h"'1;\""" ''■ >"'"• '» °- "' "■— '
n . V ,T ""' '''"'' "f "" '''^= "■•y considerable de-
pos,.» of coal have been discovered, .hough no. worked verv
ex.ens,vely; the greater par. of the n.ineral extracted, i
shipped to St. John by water.

The houses of'oagetown, the shiretown of Queen,
County, „,. the shores of the so-called Gagetown Creek, peep
ottjron, he m.ds. of a per.ec. tores, of wild and ornamJnta,

r.e . The surro.n.dn.g cotn.try .nay be taken as tvpical of
.He farn,n,g lands o( New Brunswick. Gagetown v'ies wi.h
S.^sex, ,n ,ts nnpor.ance as an agricultural centre. It
abours under the disadvantage, however, of not being on

able d,s ance (nearly twenty miles) to the west of the town

A branch „, . he radway, following up the St. John River

\ a ley fron, Westfield to fredericton, has long been agita.ej

and .. now seems that in a short tin.e there vdll be s:en he

a.« promulgated which will n,ake the greatest difference

n>.,gu able n, the prosperity of this section of the cotnttrv

n,me tately around Gagetown are situated what ntav be d

>o be the finest typ.cal River Valley farn.s in the Prmince o

the fertd,., of .hese farms and .hose of the Sussex \alley;

iMr r vci, „ -J'"" '^'^^'^- -'lie place IS owned bv

!»,>.. nv„ Mscll ;,„cl con.,„ns ahm,t „„, l„„ulr«l aero, i,i

^-Pnnjr. Another portion is. what is here cillprl - u

n., out nno a comparatively wide shoal layoon This !« fU

..e . e very centre of .ha interval near ,he head of te ^r' fc
i- Muated a peculiar hill, unlike anything found in oh!

Mount, and, ns.n;; to a height of some ninety odd feet
covers an area of about forty-five acres It is clo.L l
s^e with a thick growth of'.aple, .L an'J he' "T:

t4 ^st'^n^-d 'rf ' "'"'>■ """-^'o-'h of suJ!
The westetn s.de of the n,ou„, is cleared, and near the centre

■u

-«— »

of the clearing:, shaded by towering butternut trees are the
remains of a peculiarly constructed and evidently very old
stone duellino-. The stones are set in a coarse mortar,
without having been altered from their original' form.
The walls are tremendously thick and the foundations
solidly built. Unlike most cases of the sort, there is
not a single word of tradition as to whom the house
was originally built by, or when, it having been in apparent-
ly the same condition as long as the proverbial "oldest in-
habitant" can recollect From here there is indeed a beauti-
ful view. Upon every side of the Mount stretch acre after
acre of interval. In front is the creek, on the other side of
which is an extensive snipe marsh. The slopes of the hill
itself are now planted partly with young apple trees which
are flourishing under the influence ot the favourable soil.
To the north-west of the house is a grove of linden, andlrom
-the western base of the hill stretches a great field of oats
which, when I saw them, were yellowing under the influence
of the September sun-light. I was told by the proprietor
that one portion of the interval of very considerable area
that lay just to the east of the Mount, averaged over thirty
bushels of wheat to the acre, and this must be considered a
splendid yield anywhere. Though over sixty head of cattle
were pasturing on difi-erent portions of the 'interval on the
day on which I visited it, I did not see one of them, the
pastures being so cut off from the surrounding portions of
the farm by the rows of elms and willows. Beyond the oat
field again lay a stretch of nine or ten acres of buckwheat;
and I must say that both the oats and ,the buckwheat were'
magnificent crops, the former being undoubtedly the finest
example that I have seen in the Province. I afterwards
learned from Mr. Peters that one portion of the area
threshed over sixty bushels to the acre, the whole patch
yielding over seven hundred bushels. The buckwheat also
gave an extraordinary heavy yield, though I find I have no
notes with regard to the exact quantity. When one considers
that a farm of the type and size of this one can be bought in
-New Brunswick for twelve thousand dollars at the outside—

; H^ptHJ

-i— «

o
o

-*— >

I I

thai are ope,, lo farmers who understand their business and
have a moderate amount of capital to help then,.

of M^ T H h:,,"' -f 'T""" '"""' °f "''^^'°"" - "-'

but a few r H r ' "T"' ""' '° '^' """^^ "' 'h^ -i">".'=
but a few rods from the centre of the town. The interAl

in this case is not on Grimross Necli across th. r ,
■Cropir ot- ; .1 . i^cLK across the Lrap-etown

Lrcek, as is the case with Mr. Peiers' farm hnf .u , \a-
Iv on the itnls^n^ -ri' , ' "* ^^"^■'* direct-

are practically perfect. The soil seems to present every ad
vantage for fruit ..owing, and the only reason h it it
not b ,,, „„ ,^^^^ extensively seems to b h a

s a ed tt '''°'^^°'^'^' ^^h-^ ^^' Sharp's orchard is
do 1 , " ^^'''^ "^^ P"-^^^"^ ^he same advantages
tributaries. It cannot be predicted too strongly that fruit
aising m these valleys must always be one o the lo
lucrative pursuits that a practical farmer can take up Tn

:1:TT '''' i'^" ''-" ''•''''' ^- '-^ even a modera
abT th .'r^' ' T' '" ""'■^- ^^^^ --P-^ -ost favo
No -a S r ".'" ''' ""■"'^ '^'"^^ ^--Polis Valley of
No a Scotia; and, though I should not go so far as to s
that the conditions ar. h.....w...u.... 5 , ^^' ^^ *° ^' >

1 may persons

Relieve), I still think th

River Valley present as fi

It the Kennebe

Illy
casis and St. John

can be found in th«

ne conditions for apple gro

was just in the midst of h

world. When I visited Mr. H

growing as
all's farm

■say It would be difficul

arvesting his oats, and I

perfect maturity

t anywhere \o find oats

r under better cond

grown to more

<in extraordinarily heavy one; and, fro

itions. Tile

m what the

crop was
proprietor

^•

a
o

s lid, seemed to have been obtained without any j^reat effort.
The land was, of course, intelligently worked, as Mr. Hall is
a gradii:ite of the Agricultu.al College at Guelph; but no ex
t.aordinary amount d fertilizer or manure of any sort was
used; the simple fact of proper attention being paid to the
proper rotation of crops was what Mr. Hall had to thank
above everything for his success in the year that I visited
him. The upland grain fields were without steep rises and
sloped gradually down to the usual row of elms and willows
along the shores of Gagetown Creek. The southern portion
of the farm consists entirely of interval; the quality verv much
resembling, of course, that of Mr. Peters' farm. Probably
nowhere throughout the river valley can finer trees be found
than on this farm; one elm I remember especially. It
stretched far above the tops of the others, developing into
long, curving, feathery plumes. The whole lower part of
the tree up to a height of, perhaps, twenty-five feet was
completely over-grown with a mass ot wi'! grape vines.
The base of the trunk was entirely hidden by the dense foli-
age and brilliant red fruit of the wild plum, while on one
side clustered a perfect mass of choke cherries, every one of
these extra growths being indicative of the quality of the
interval soil.

On the edi^e of Mr. Hall's interval is situated the Gage-
town Light, at the western end of a ferry which runs from
here across to another of the finest farms in this portion of the
country— that of Mr. Scovil. This farm contains approximately
one thousand acres, a great quantity of which is interval, and,
like others in the district is famed, not only intelligently, but
scientifically. It is an education in the possibilities of New
Brunswick agriculture to visit these farms; and, were they
situated on a line of railway, the owners working them with
a moderate amount of capital should not only be extremely
well to do, as is the case at present, but wealthy. To give
still one more instance of a Gagetown farm; that of Mr.
Thomas Henry Gilbert is situated about two and a half

miles above the villatre at

close to the .St. John R

point wb.ere the creek ru

ns verv

\iver. Here the Government have cut

i!
U

c
o

■9

a channel .hrou^^h fron, ,he main river ,o <i„trelo«n Creek

«o .ha. s.ean,er» h, .heir p„»a,,e .,p or dou'ri.er, ™ if

necessary .al<e the (iaKe.own ro.r.e do„n .hron^jh the cr;ek

-.eaci o go,n,. b, ,he main river. Th. upil.nU „f M,-

.Hber. s farm ,s »„„a.ed on .he mainland, his interval, as in

r s Ne.k. The whole of .his neck (some .hree and a half
es m enK,h and abou, .«o miles in wid.h, all of .he fines.
nuer>al land, was formerlj a por.io„ of .he old Gilber. farm
bn. was necessarily ,00 extensive .0 be worked satis.ac.orilj
by any one lam.ly. The farm now is snfficien.ly large for a I
pracucal pnrposes the npland is of as ^ood ^ali!;. a .
others, as „ also the case with the interval. When 1 v isi,
ed Mr. Clber. buckwhea. .hreshing was in ,nM !„i 1'
A hor.se tread turn.shed the power for the .hreshing; piles tf
redd,sh s.raw were lying abon.; .he dust ,rom th 'car i^
new n clouds around the barnyard; team af.er .earn drove
... pded w,th buckwheat, cu, br„ a li..le while, and fiv o!
».x men were busy looking after ,he grain and ge.tin.'t n
bags and .,ed up. Mr. Ciilbert himself is an excellen, tper

';,:"," " ^T ''"'"'"-■^ '»™- """ a men,ber o a 'o 1
- g .sh f..,ly who have been pron.inen. in .he farn.ing

, H •^'"' B""«w,ck almos. ever since New Brunswick

was. He ,s a man no. afraid of work personally, which is
.necessary quality for any succe.ssful farmer in this coun.r,
. d h , a„ ul.m, ,te faith in the coun.ry itself. ,t would b
. an ^hi " ,""^^•>'P-=" N-- Brunswick farming scene

;^ Ll ,■' ■'■ t ' " P'"""-'™Ph of it, of which a
procucon ,s shown. There is an air of prosperity over

ell '. ,'^'""''<"'-»<-f y-looking little chaps being

Th it:" "" '''""""" """="' '"'*-'' '" 'he operation:
The hay crop was so heavy during that year that the barns

n^nrh TrT "', '°'''""' "• """ « -^v considerab
an oun. had to be stacked on different portions o( the interval

w. V bunT "• "7 ■"'^""" ^""«-""^' '"e stacks are a^
"a>» bu.l. upon floors which are raised three or four feet

::■:,;. •:ni%T":r.'^"-^r' -- - " =»-, dow„ m .::

iff

no chance to

injure the hay. If these stack.^

<1>

3
O

are covered, the hay uiulerj,'oes but little deterioration. The-
villaj,'e of (Jagetown itself is not particularly impressive, a*
tar as its building's, public buildings and stores are concerned^
they for the most part being small wooden structures.
Practically everything, however, that is required by the
farmer can be obtained in the village; this town, as is the
case with Sussex catering especially to the agricultural class.
The dwellings of Gagetown, however, are above the average,
being for the most part large and roomy and beautifully
situated. With one or two exceptions, they are built of
wood.

The coal deposits in the vicinity of Grand Lake have
been mentioned before. Just how ext ..sive these deposits
are is not yet thoroughly known. The fields have been
partially explored by boring, and in different sections have-
been mined quite extensively, but always rather carelessly
and unscientifically. Dr. L. W. Bailey, in his report on the
mineral resources of the Province (S. E. Dawson, Ottawa,
1899, printed for the Department of the Crown Lands of
New Brunswick) says, "There can be but little doubt that,
"among the mineral . of New Brunswick, bituminous coal
"was one of the first to attract attention, its mode of ap-
" pearance, ready recognition and obvious utility alike
"contributing to that result. It is probable that the first
" discoveries were made at Grand Lake, and from the beds of
" that vicinity coal would appear to have been obtained in
"small quantities as early as 1782, but it was not until sixty
"years later, through the explorations of Dr. Abraham (iesner
"that the full extent of the areas occupied by coal-bearing
" rocks were made known. Between the year 1839 and 1841
"in addition to the recognition of limited areas of such
" rocks near the coast styled by him the Chignecto Bay Coal
" Formation and theWestmorland Coal Field ascertained that
" a large part of the central counties, including the whole ot
" Sunbury and Kent, with large portions of Queens, York,
" Northumberland andGloucester, were underlain by rocks ot
" the same age. These general conclusions were subsequently-
" fully verified, especially nythe work of the Geological Survey,

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•| With the recos:„i,io„, however, of the fact that thev
have , arse supertces, ovv!,„. to the extreme hoH.onta;
of the beds, the formation had in all probability bu, litt e

of Dr.Gesner, the^oalseems of inconsiderable amotmt
The coa ■n,n,e., of Grand Lake are situated on its northern

••2d bo! h f ■"'"' ""'=^'"""'" Ri^''^'- in Chipman
and abotn the lower part of Coal Creek, the entire extent

of the Newcastle Basin, being estimated at about one

hundred square miles. The country has an average elev"

.on of not more than fi.ty feet above the lake, ,fhile the

surface of all ,s not far from the sea level. The country

except where cut by water courses, is also nearly flat w fh,

a dn t coverntg varying from a few inches to 30 or 40 feet

The lake ,s navigated by steamers and small sailing vessel

e distance from Newcastle to St. John by wafer eg

forty-five m.les, and from Chipman to the same part abota

••Sr^r- ^'T" '•' -w connected' by he
Cenra, r K,^y ,,„|^ ^^^ Intercolonial Railway at
Norton, a distance of forty-four miles. The means f.
the removal of the product of the mneTt ,t

- mL h "T ""^''"' ""P'^- ^^^ development .^
mines h.as been very slow, indeed, throughout their en, re

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effected in the mo.t desultoryway.each farmer upon whose
and the seam was exposed, devoting a portion of his winter
labo to getting out what was needed for his own use o
s.mply haulmg a load on sleds to Fredericton.'' To .^e

helds, the geological survey finally took up the matter and
."ade a series of borings, the result being that they de ei
mined that the basin was comparatively'shallow rith the
maximum depth not exceeding six hundred feet. 0„ making
ome calculations as to the quantity of coal ,0 be fou a

ther. are about 22,135,449 ""s, or if the associated areas of

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Salmon Creek and Coal Creek be included-about which the
information is less conclusive— the total will be nearly 155
million tons, of this it is probable that from one hundred
thousand to one hundred and twenty-five thousand tons have
already been removed. The coal is of excellent quality. On
account of the shallowness of the basin and the proximity of
the mineral to the surface, it can be very readily worked.
This coal field should be thoroughly developed.

I have before mentioned that this region was a famous
duck and snipe shooting ground. Let me give a day's
experience of snipe shooting on the intervals at the mouth'of
the Jemseg River just across the St. John from the village
Itself. In company with Mr. Sherman Peters and his son,
Oliver, I started from Gagetown on the fifteenth day of
September in a canoe', one of the narrow Malicete type, so
plentiful on the St. John River, We started with 'the
intention of paddling up the Grand Lake to shoot ducks and,
as a consequence, had but a few shells containing snipe shot.'
The day was absolutely clear, and, unless one has experienced
a September day in eastern Canada, no description can give
any conception of the beauties ot the country and the bracing
quality of the air during this time ot the year. It was almos^t
perfectly calm, the maples on each side of Gagetown Creek
had begun to turn to the gorgeous hues characteristic of a
week or two later, and, as we paddled along, everything was
reflected in the perfectly still, clear water. After rounding
the point of Grimross Neck we met a slight breeze that came
clear and fresh from the west-northwest. This, however,
only added an additional zest to paddling. We landed to
examine a marsh, where a stray black duck might have drop-
ped in, and when we again returned to the river, the breeze
had freshened considerably, enabling us to put up a little
three-cornered sail and with one paddle down as a lee-board
we started for the mouth of the Jemseg, three-quarters of a
mile distant. Sailing in a Malicete canoe is an experience
which, unless you have plenty of ballast has a tendency to
cause you to dream for several nights of endeavouring to sit
comfortably on a log which is floating freely in the water. A

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aittle care, however, is all that is necessary and the species of
-danger makes the process far more interestinir. Even with
the ridiculously small sail the little bark slipped and splashed
along through the ripples as if propelled by some impalpable
force and in a very short time we had entered into the shelter
of the river bank again. As we rounded a bend, only a
hundred yards or so upstream the black smoke stack of the
"May Queen," one of the pretty little white paddle steamers
running from the Grand Lake ports to St John, hove in sight
winding hither and thither through the interval. A few
minutes after and she bore down on us, kicking up a swell
that caused us to get as near shore as possible, if we wished
to keep dry. With a waving ot hats and handkerchiefs, she
swept past and down to the pier at Jemseg, the last port of
•call befoue Gagetown. Hardly had she passed us a hundred
yards when came the sharp call "Mark right" and a flock of
seven teal came whistling down across our bow. Oliver had
his gun in an instant and, as they hissed past at eighty miles
an hour, he fired. Three birds out of the flock dropped
hardly a yard apart. The rest wheeled and swept back up
•river. The water was low and a few hundred yards upstream
a marsh which is usually covered, or at least very wet, was
bare. Into this two or three snipe pitched, and we decided
to rout them out before proceeding upstream on our duck-
shooting expedition.

We paddled as far into the coarse grass as possible and
stepped out into the soft, sticky mud; shell bags were
■adjusted, the last glance given to the guns and we were
ready for business. The point on which we landed, on
-account ot the little creek running across its base, had
become a marshy island not over 150 yards in length and at
its widest part probably 100 across. We formed a line
twenty or thirty paces apart and moved ahead. Hardly had
we gone twenty feet before a pair of birds sprang into the air.
They were fresh and not overfat and, with a couple of
squawks, they wheeled away, curling and twisting, as only
Wilson's snipe can do, for a few yards. I fired and missed, and
"immediately following my shot came two in rapid succession.

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Oliver had '.wiped my eye" and scored a double-
pretty o^ood start. Almost immediately three more birds
jumped, and Mr Peters and I aj,^ain succeeded in scoriuL^
musses A second after, and Oliver got his third bird.
While I was engag-ed in trying to calculate whether I ever
knew how to shoot, a \'irginia Rail got up and lumbered
away. Ihen, the thrill came back and with it the "know
how which had apparently forsaken me. Simultaneously
uith my success came a more marked one, for Mr. Peters
managed to get two birds, and tor a time the fun went fast
and turious. All that was necessary was to walk to one end
of the point and then back again. I„ the meantime a suffi-
cient number of birds had dropped in to keep us busy. We
shot but a little while, sufficiently long, however, to spoil our
chances of getting to the point we wished to reach on Grand
Lake that day. We counted heads and in the two hours and
a half, only part of which we were shooting, we had gotten
three teal, one Virginia Rail and twenty-five Wilson's Snipe-
and, as we paddled back in the afternoon, it was with that
.sense of intense satisfaction known to no one but the sports-
man alter a day's hunt of this sort.

This instance, however, gives no conception of the
c^ipab.lit,es_ of this section of the Country for small game.
The following day Mr. Peters, with a shell bag properlv
stocked with a hundred rounds of Xo. 9 shot, went over tlie
same ground we had covered and obtained no less than fortv-
e.ght snipe alone. One of the favorite methods of shootin'g
blackduck near Gagetown. is to secrete yourself in the wild
grass at the edge of on. of the numerous marshes in which

the birds spend the night, flying in from the main

little after sundown and

river

The last part of th

continuing to come in until dark.

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but this only adds to the sport. A good d
if all the birds are to be obtained.

lies above Gagetown is the village of L'

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Gagetown on the same side of th
situated on a considerable slor-;

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across the intervening neck ot land and then far across ther
glitterinfj waters of Grand Lake, while a little further uf>
stream can be seen Maniiapit Lake, connected with the lorm-
er larj,'-er body of water by a thorou.i,difare. The intervals at
Tpper Gagetown are not so extensive on the same side of
the river as at Gagetown proper, but across the stream there
is a tremendous extent of this low-lying fertile land. Upper
Gagetown is, perhaps, the ideal situation on the lower St.
John River for black duck shooting. From here it is a drive
ot but a mile or two up river to the boundary between Queens
and Sunbury Counties. One result of the lowness of the
land, which is the general rule throughout these two
counties, is found in the fact that a very inu:h smaller stream
is capable of cutting its way into the under-lying formation
sufficiently deep and sufficiently rapid to establish a very
much more extensive area of interval land along its course
than would be the case in a section where the general sur-
face of the land is higher. This, ot course, is a great
advantage, inasmuch as some streams which in certain
portions of the country would be toosmall to carry any inter-
val land with them, here flow through very considerable
stretches of it, and, no matter how fertile the upland may be,
for certain branches of farming, the interval is always to be
preferred. First-class fishing can be found throughout
Queens County, the Canaan and Salmon River having long
been famous as trout streams ; but it is hardly necessary to
dwell on this point when speaking of a county that has
such a net work of natural water-ways, as is the case with
this. Throughout the eastern section, between the Canaan
and Salmon Rivers is an excellent bag game country. Mr.
W. K. Reynolds in "Rod and Gun" in New Brunswick,
speaking of this region, says : " The Canaan takes its rise
in Westmorland County and flows through Queens County,
until it reaches its outlet at Washademoak Lake. On the-
northern side of it, chiefly in Queens County, but including
also a portion ot Westmorland and Kent, is what is known,
as the Canaan Moose Region. This may be said to include
a tract of country about thirty miles in length from east to

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^.vc.stand with :m avcraj^'c wiilih of about half that distaiu-e
'irom north to south. This docs not include the Salmon
Kiver District, which lies to t|-.e north. The Canaan
region is one of the best in New Brunswick for moose, aiul
it is to some extent a caribou country as well. It has never
been hunted to such a degree as to injure it and is verv
easily reached from St. John." The woodlands througli
gi.cens County abound in partridge (so called), this name
throughout the Province usually referring to one of two
•species of grouse which are found here.

SUNBURY COUNTY.

The long, narrow County of Sunbury, abutting directly
•on the northeast side of Queens County, 'is cut a little south
of the centre by the St. John River. Though it possesses a
considerable number of streams, it cannot approach the
elaborate water-ways of the sister county. Much that has
been said of Queens County— in fact everything that has
been said regarding the farming capabilities— will appiv to
Sunbury. The county is not as well developed as is Queens
in some respects, nor is the southern portion as fertUe, but
in all the region about the St. John River and along the
C^romocto the same conditions obtain as is Queens.

According to Mr. Lugrin, the county contains (JoO
thousand acres. It was the intervals in the region oi'
Maugerville and Sheffield that first attracted the 'l-nglish
settlers that came from the New England States to find their
homes in the Provinces. Both these little towns situated on
the right bank of the river resemble in their general features
the vicinity of Gagetown in Queens County. Everywhere
stretch the same magnificent intervals and river islands.
'Qi'.antities of produce await the steamer on her way to St.
John, and, as she swings into the wharf at Maugerville or at
Sheffield, it is usually crowaed with farmers, each with his
'team load of produce which he is sending to the city market.
If we take the steamer from Fredericton some fine
autumn morning, generally about the 8th or 9th of September,

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by the time we have reached Maujjervllle and ShefTicIJ
there will be a considerable i.|iiantity of produce already on
bo.ird. As the steamer tics up at the wharl at Maug'crvillc,
however, the sij^'ht is one to gladden the heart of anyone
inicrcsted in agriculture. The whole wharf is crowded with
barrels and boxes. Here a box of tomatoes of the newer
varieties, unlike the old, seam-creased enormous affairs that
wore the former prize winners, shows up to advantage; here
an enormous crate containing cabbages, each one large
enough to feed an entire family, and beside it a few half-
bushel baskets, each containing four or five enormous turnips;
then bunches of Mangel Wurtzels, and beside these a pile of
large carrots tied up in bunches. These are, of course, the
pick of the vegetables, and are on their vvay to the St. John
Exhibition. On one part of the wharf 'vill be spread apiece of
burlap, on top of which will be heaped up different varieties
of rhubarb carefully cut and tied. An endless number of
baskets o( fine looking potatoes will vie with similar baskets
of beets in the public notice, and in still another place will be
seen a few barrels, each containing two or three, or some-
times only one, enormous pumpkin, Hubard squash, vegetable
maiTows and enormous cucumbers will be jumbled together,
while a few steps beyond, half a dozen baskets of onions will
claim their share of attention, and then the grains. The grain
in bags and grain in sheaves, and single stacks of grain fast-
ened carefully to show the size of head and length of straw.
The prizes at the International Kxhibition are keenly striven
for, the farmers making keen efforts to win. Pictures taken
at the International Exhibition, of the exhibit of grain and
vegetables, illustrates the magnificent success which can be
obtained in ilie Province ot New Brunswick.

YORK COUNTY.

The next County, as one proceeds up river is that ot
York. This, one of the largest counties in the Province,,
covers no less than ,?, 278,000 acres. It is bounded on the.-

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iiorth-west by Carleton County, on the west bv the State ot
Ma;ne (one of the United States), on the south'bv Charlotte
County, on the south-east by Sunbury County and on the
morth-east and north by the County of Northumberland. The
:St. John River runs through the county somewhat south of
'the centre, the most important branches being the Keswick
R.ver and the Nashwaai<. The south-west branch of the
M.ramichi River runs through the northern portion of the
■county, and through this whole region there are splendid
huntmg and fishing. The south part of the county abounds
Ml lakes, one portion of the boundary between York Countv
and the State of Maine being a continuous lake-like expansion
of the St. Croix River. The Magaguadavic lake is the
-largest of the York County lakes, with Oromocto before
-mentioned almost equal to its size. Other lakes are David-
son Lake and Lake George, drained bv the Pokiok River
B>g Cranberry Lake, which can be reached bv the Canadia.i
Pacific Railway, as is also the case with Magaguadavic, the
D.gdeguash (or Digde waters, as they are locally called)
.consisting of a chain of lakes emptving into the St. Croix
R.ver, Skiff Lake, the Eel Lakes, emptving by the Kel River
into St. John; Bolton Lake and a host of smaller ones too
numerous to even think of. These lakes, without exception,
afford ^ood angling, nearly all of them having considerable
numbers of trout. To get some conception of the tvpe of
lake found in this part of York County, in earlv September
of 1899 I visited the second Digdeguash Lake. This hike
locally known as the Wauklehagen, is situated in a portion
of \ ork County which is utterly valueless from an agricultural
point of view. This particular section is what is technicallv
known as a Glacial Moriane. Huge boulders which iiav'e
been torn from the surrounding formations not far distant by
the action of the ice are strewn everywhere, the soil finding
»ts lodgement between them. The lakes occupy positions
among these enormous boulders, the shores being almost
entirely made up of them and the surface being dotted with
islands, some of them only large enough to support one or
■two spruce trees, some of them of considerable extent and

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others again nothing- but single rocks. The whole series of
lakes are stocked with pickeral, which furnish excellent sport
to the angler who is fond of trolling. McAdam Junction
with the Maritime headquarters and repair shops of the
■Canadian Pacific Railway is situated between three-quarters
•of a mile from the foot of Skowheggan Lake. With this
exception, there aie no settlements in the immediate vicinitv.
The woods are wild and rugged, and the same boulder form-
ation is fo. <id everywhere. Along the shores of the lake the
Red Deer often comes out in the evening to drink, and many
of this beautiful species have been obtained by simply wait-
ing at some favorite spot. Anywhere through these lakes a
man should have no difficulty in getting four or five dozen
pickeral in a day, it he goes properly equipped. The scen-
ery, though of an awtul type, is delightful, the rocky shores
adding a picturesqueness to these water-ways that is
peculiarly their own.

The chiet farming section of York County stretcl.es
along the valley of the main St. John River. When I say
the chief farming section, I mean the section which has up
to the present been most thoroughly developed. Through
the other portions of the county, however, is soil well
•adapted for farming which only waits for settlement. All
that has been said about farming in Queens and Sunbury
Country applies to York County. The western portion of
the county shows up considerable amounts of granite, the
greater part of the boulders which I mentioned in the
southern and western portion being of this stone. The salt
belt covers the greater part of Western York, the boundary
of the carboniferous system running approximately north-east
and south-west through the centre of the county, to the
south-east being carboniferous and to the north-west the silt
belt. Along the St. John River \'alley in the immediate
vicinity of Fredericton, especially up river, are some splen-
didly developed farms, and some of these would make almost
ideal farms for men who had a little capital and were fond
of farming. They are near the railway and have every advan-
tage that interval farms can have. The city of Fredericton,

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or the bt. John River on a hi.rh inrerv-il uU. ^ c

h.,)f -I ,- '"»" "luerval about four and •.

B cite':-: ■ :^'""^".^-> >«■"-" ^--^ -" s-^->
.i.™ b„, „ ,Ho„ While beror:re. ' ^ • ef .,k ;"r'

can be traced tor a considerable distanc ook , "

.K,.h.„e.,er,, direction can be seen the 1;..,;;7 fNTsb'

".- f.. Do>vn the valley of the Nashwaak cones the Canadl
Eastern Railway, owned and operated by Mr. Gib „„ ' ,1 ,

h^^r';. "h-™":'':" "'"» '"' ^■-'"i"- branch of

c! e „ ri;-'" ' r'"^: ""'■"''>' '^»'^"'- A^ ■■» -ua"v
•^"t case in Maritime Province towns rhnrnl, f i

Hmon,. the ntost pron,i„e„t featur " -W? off t'lf" ""
-.•dot- the river hank loo„s „p the dot "^ffhe P !,::• d

c:::r:in s cr:,:-rtner:;rr ;" '''^

;;;eder,.ton, at present the Ri.ht R^errn;',; T.^ K^;'
don Keder,c,cn has abont oi,,ht thousand inhabitam, Id
'.P .o the present has „o, been the site of any very conler
ab . n,anufac.„ri,„. indt.stries. The streets ^re elMai o i
^ Msht angles to each other, there is an attractive par T
'!» ^Ibngs are pretty, though tor the most part not pre"^ n^ ,

the business streets are convenient and tlie stores and
hotels excellent. The town stands today, in most respects
the prettiest mi the Maritime Provinces. The St. John Rive,
here .s spanned by two bridj^^es, one- he main hi.^hway
hndj,o--to St. Mary's, a svoodcn structure-and the other a
steel railway brid-e, connectini,^ the Can.alian Pacific Rail-
way on the west banl< with the Canada Kastern on the east
bank ot the river. Instead of the unattractive water fronts
so often found in river towns and cities, at Fredericton.'
especially alon^^ the lower and upper parts of the town, a
very considerable space is left between the streets and the
water, this forming- a broad, g-rassy esplanade, shaded with
enormous elms, ^\v\ng the city from the water front a much
more attractive appeclrance than it would otherwise possess
One of the prettiest sig;hts imagrinable which 1 had the good
luck to see in the latter part of the summer of ,899, was the
arrival of the Kennebecasis Yacht Squadron, with head,
quarters at St. John, in front .f the Club House at
Fredericton, during- their annual cruise for the season. The
boats straggled in one after another, their white sail g-leam-
mg: in the setting: sun. until the whole wesfern bank of the
nver was lined with them. In a little while as the darkness
.ncreased, all were illuminated, and the sig^ht was an extreme-
.y pretty one. "The Parliament buildings is a large free stone
structure of handsome design recently built to supply the
place of the one destroyed by fire," says Mr. Lugrin in his.
hand book for the Province. The building was built in the
early eig-hties.

Fredericton is the centre of a very extensive lumber in-
dustry, the working centre being Marysville on the Nashwaak
River. Here Mr. Gibson has extensive saw mills and a lar^^e^
cotton factory. The lumber as it is sawed, is loaded on,
-scows and towed down the St. John River. The greater
portion of the logs come down the Nashwaak from the
regions around its head waters, though a good deal also
comes down the main St. John River to these mills.

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CARLETON COUNTY.

The next County to be considered is that of Carleton
It has an area of 788,.oo acres. Carleton County has but
V'ery l.ttle interval land when compared with the Counties of
he Lower St. John, but is without doubt the finest uphuul
<arm,no. County so far developed in the Province. There
may be smgle farms throughout other portions of the Pro-
v.nce that are finer than any which can be found i„ Carleton
County, but nowhere do we find the continuous stretch of
carefully cultivated farming- land to be found here. Wood
stock on the west bank of the St. John River and at the
mouth o. Meduxnakeag. a little stream emptying in opposite
Bull . Island, .s the commercial centre of the Countv and is
situated in the southern portion of it. The finest farminir
land or at any rate the best developed farming land is to be
found on the west side of the river. No better idea of the
capab.hties of this county can be obtained than bv drivin.^
from Woodstock to Centreville, a distance of a li'ttle ove'J
twenty miles in an almost northerly direction. In this county
we come directly under the influence ot the most southerlv
portion of that great Upper Silurian fertile belt which span's
the north of the Province. Moderate si.ed. thriving settle-
ments are everywhere. One fine morning in October-
October the loth-I left Woodstock to drive to Centreville.
The road runs along the St. John River for a distance of three
miles to the town of Upper Woodstock passing on the way
the famous orchards and nurseries owned by Mr. Sharp which
will be described elsewhere more at length. From Upper
VVoodstock the road stretches inland in a northwesterly

V lie n r". ". '"' ""'^^ "'^•'^^ ''■' '^^^"^ '- is Jackson'
v.lle. Unlike other portions of the province we did not. in

driving along this road, come to any uncleared areas of anv

considerable extent. There are farms everywhere, some o'f

them well worked, some moderately well worked, but on the

whole the results obtained are creditable. The soil is in

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every respect satisfactory. It is not as free of stones as is
he S0.1 further north, but the stones are not sufficiently larj^e
to be troublesome: all can bo readMv picked from ihe Held.
The amount of stone varies consid. able with the districts-
some ben,g almost entirely free of \s ^. , aivc over a
ral^o beyond Jacksontown. the panuiam.. that spreads be-
to. c us ,s an iaipressive one, as we look in a uorthwestly
d.rect,on. Here and 'here are scattered small vl-nges, close
at hand ,s consicl.rable group of houses with well 1- Jit
barns, substantial looking: outbuildinK's, a windmill on near-
iy every roof and considerable quantities ot stock. On one
sulc .s a neativ painted school house and bcvond, in one of
the .smallest villages, two or three church spires can be seen.
There .s a gencM- d air of prosperity over the whole country
siu^. In ,h, umce oi^ either side of the road one can
get a very fa,r ccn.cepti, , of the large area o. the same
^ual.ty of land which has yet to be brough ,to cultivation.
Away to the northwest looms up Mars H,, a the State of
Mame, and hr un.the western horizon can be seen the peculiar
Obtuse, slantmg cone ot iVIount Katahdin, fifty-two feet in
lie-gh. wh.ch can be seen from the top of Squaw Cap on the
other s.d. of the-province. Practically all the grain is cut.
though _ here, and there a .mall patch remains. As
you drive along you see first on one side of the road
and then on the oti.er moderate sized areas of roots. On
the day m question t„rnip pilling seemed to o the order
all along the route, and great piles of these vc ^...i -s were
u> be seen. More occasionally a considerable , . ot .nan-els
or beet^ were in evidence. Nearly every household ha.Pits
flock of turkeys, there sometimes being between thirty and
forty birds i.i group. These wandered over the tk M.
rom which the grai had been .ut, and gleaned mor.
thoroughly than anything human could have done; the result
being satisfactory both to the turkeys an their owners.
Where an occasional bird would wander across the road was
to be found in almos: -very case a considerable flock of ducks
and sometimes of geese, while in one field that I noticed aP
lour spec.es.of poultry were mingled, ducks, geese, hens and

Cathedral, Fredericton, York County, N. R.

turkeys. The farm houses tlroi.i,^hout Carlcton County are
as a rule, better constructed atui Hner in appearance than i.,
any other portion of the Province. They are painted neatly
and the house itself always seems favoured, the out-buiUlinrs
comiUK' '" for their share ot the beautifier. This, thoujrh'a
small matter from an ultra-practical point of view, makes a
very considerable dilTerence in the appearance of a tvpical
section of farming country. Stock raising, is not carri'ed on
throujrhout this part of the country as it should be, the same
tendency beui- noticeable here as elsewhere; that is the
tendency to raise hay and other farm pro'duce and sell it
rather than usinjr it directly on their farm in the production
ot s.tock, either for dairy or meat production. Beyond Jack-
sonville, lies Jacksontown, then Farmerston and beyond that
ai,'a>n I.akeville. Kic^ht miles beyond Lakeville lies the
v.llaf,'e of Centreville. Centreville is nothing more or less
than a farminjr co. ntry. It is not a manufacturiuj,' village
and It caters to the farmers alone. Its stores are excellent,
and the stock consists ot practically everything that can be
of service to the farmer. The houses are neat and, in some
cases pretty, and the whole effect is pleasing. To tiie
southwest rises a hill to a considerable elevation and
Iron, this point of vantage can be obtained a view
ot as pretty a stretch of farm land as can be found
anywhere in the world. Centreville is situated about
eight miles from Florencevilie on the line of railwav which
runs up the main St. John River. At Florencevilie 'there is
an excellent local market and a more extensive market at
Woodstock, twenty miles down stream. Throughout this
whole section of the county agricultural progress is the order
ot the day, and the man who can be said to farm unintelli-
gently is the exception and not the rule. To this fact more
than to anything else does Carleton County owe its suoremacy
as an upland farming county. Before visiting the section f
had known to a great extent what to expect, buf it is im-
possible to form an accurate conception of any district of the
sort without actually seeing it. The surface of the country
>s very correctly described when It is said to be undulating.

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ffor drainage while in other cases there are considerable hills.
Very seldom, however, is the land so steep as to be extra-
ordmarily dry and. make its cultivation with machinery a
matter of difficulty. Every advantage in the way of farm
machmery that is supplied by the modern market is taken up
an Carleton County. The farms have a large area and pay
well. The Savings Bank show handsome credits to a lar-e
number of farmers. The more you see of the county, the
more you are impressed with the fact that farming after all
when properly conducted is the basis of the solid financial
condition of a country, whatever its others resources mav be.
One of the oest proofs of the general satisfaction with them-
selves and the rest of the world felt bv the farmers in
Carleton County is the difficulty which is generally exper-
ienced m buying a farm at anything like a reasonable price.
Ot course, there are the usual accidental circumstances that
may lead up to the sale of the finest tarms. but farming lands
cannot be obtained in any great quantity readily. As I he-
tore said, however, there are large areas'directly contiguous
to those already settled which are still to be developed.
Though there is very little Crown Land remaining, unde-
veloped land can be obtamed very cheaply and in a matter of
five or six years can be brought to a perfect state of cultiva-
tion. Nowhere has the Government Policv of encouragement
to agriculture met with more favorable response than here
and even the river valleys with there thousands upon
thousands of acres of interval land, or Westmorland and
Albert Counties with their immense stretches of dyke lands,
have to struggle to keep up the records established in the
■County of Carleton. Nowhere are the annual fairs held in
the different counties more generouslv patronized or gener-
ously attended nan is the one held at Woodstock. These
annual fairs tend also to the rapid advancement in farming;
the Government Dairy Experts acting as the judge?, in the
case of Dairy Products. Northern Centreville, and at mod-
•erate distances are scattered other smaller villages, each one
a secondary farming country in itself. An instance of ihi.s

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type of place is Tracy's Mills, a couple of miles north oi
Centreville, while in a southwesterly direction, Lon^r Settle-
ment is another. When I visited Centreville, fall plowiui;
was in full swing- throui,rh the surrounding- country. Two o^r
sometimes three plows would follow each other over some
bi- rolling: field, and it was necessary but to notice the way
in which the plows run to become convinced of the class of
soil.

Apple Raising in Carleton County.

Under this heading- I wish to refer to the famous Sharp
Orchard in Woodstock. The orchard in question is situated,
out of town a short distance up river. I visited it on October
the ninth after the last of the apples had been gathered. It
lies on the westerly slope and the orchard and nursery
togrether cover in all something- over one hundred acres.
Mr. Sharp, the proprietor of this orchard, has raised apples in
New Brunswick for a great many years and has studied the
peculiarities of the climate and this subject most carefully.
Thus he is in a position to speak authoritatively regarding-
the possibilities and prospects ot fruit raising- in the Province.
A hundred-acre farm is nothing- to be despised, hut a
hundred acre orchard is really an enormous affair. To g-ive
isomv' i4en of it, Mr. Sharp imtormed me that personally each
season iw pruned about one hundred miles ot trees. ' Kach
^cr*.' Ml yield about one hundred barrels of apples

on the poorest years and each g-ood year two hundred, the
good and poor years alternating-. This may be considered a
steady yield, giving an average of one hundred and fifty
barrels of apples per acre per year. The varieties which Mr
Sharp raises are the 'Crimson BeaMty." "The Wealthy,"
and "The New Brunswick." He also raises a few "Famuse."
The "Crimson Beauty" is a hybrid originaled by Mr.
Sharp. It is the result o( a cross between the "Famuse"
and "The New Brunswick." He has succeeded in getting
all the qualities of the " Fannistr" with the hardness and

keeping qualities of "The N'

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a e remarkaol.v productive and very showy, but according, to
Mr. Sharp, lacked quality as far as flavour was concerned
In the season of 1899. Mr. Sharp raised i.;oo barrels of
Cnmson Beauties." 800 barrels of " VVealthies." and i ^00

tttt °^^,'^^^^^^-"--k-" Of these he informs*;,
that he g-ot Jj>3.oo a barrel at the orchard for the "Crimson
beaut.es," without having to pay any cartage or frei^Hus
All the "Wealthies" were sold for $.50 a^arrel .u the
orchrad,and the highest price received for No. i "Wealthies"
thi^'"^" J""" ">^ew Brunswick" apples brought some-
thmg over $1.00 a barrel. A considerable portion of Mr
Sharp s land .s in nursery. I„ the season of .899 he had no
less than 80,000 trees in one lot and 70,000 in another iu
h.s nursery Of f^uit bearing trees in the orchard proper
here are about seventy acres now, carrying three hundred
trees per acre, gyvn^g a total of 21,000 trees. When asked
about the expenditure connected with maintaining an orchard
1^. ot t,,,, ,0,, Mr. Sharp gave us the following particular.-

The expenses for the cultivation alone amounts to about
S300.00 a year, it costs $100.00 to spray the trees, this
spraymg bemg done to keep away the codling moth ^,nd
canker worm. He could not tell me accurately what the
manure cost. Two men besides himself were required to do
he work unt.1 the time came for gathering fruit, when sixty
hands were needed. Often it is difficult to get a sufficient
number of men at this season, in 1899 only thirty-five bein^^
procurable. Pruning costs $50.00 a year for a few vears^
and then that expense terminates. Each season it 'costs
fit y cents a barrel to get the fruit picked and packed and
taken to the station. Mr. Sharp is most enthusiastic about
New Brunswick as a country for fruit raising. He says that
nowhere are the blossoms hurt less frequently by the frost

••ru T" ;'^"T" '""'^ "^ "^ -^^ ^"^^-'>''' he says,
that the frosts have no time to injure the blossoms, the

weather bemg compa: am e;y warm before they are developed

have been fifty years ...sing apples in New Brunswick and

I have never lost a crop. Among the many advantages

wh.ch the Maritime Provinces present, the frequent showers

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are not the least important. Bet
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throughout the growing season. I remember," said Mr.
Sharp, "visiting the Kastern and Middle United States a few
summers ago. There was a great drought and everything
was burned and dried out. When I returned to the St. John
River Valley it seemed greener by contrast than I had ever
seen it before. There is nearly twice the sunshine in this
country than is to be found in England. Why," he con-
tinued, "when I started herewith the intention' of raisin-
apples, it was not believed that apples could be raised at all
m the country and not a single barrel had been raised here.
Now, they are cheaper here than anvwhere in the world
and I have seen all this change in only one lifetime, and I ,\o
not beheve that this section is nearly as well adapted to apple
ra.smg as is the Sussex Valley. I have proven this by
sendmg some of my trees and seeds of some others to
-^, General Williams at Sussex. When I visited that section a

tew years later the markets of the vicinitv were supplied
almostentirely with apples raised from these same seeds and
trees and came from General Williams' orchard. They were
hner than my own, proving that the valley could raise'better
apples and a greater quantity than I could here."

The shiretown of Carleton County is Woodstock, situ-
ated about sixty miles above Fredericton on the left side of the
St. John River at the mouth of the Meduxnakeag. Wood-
stock is a progressive and fine looking town. Sloping down to
the river, is the site of several manufacturing industries and
necessarily a great farming country. Its public buildings are a
credit to the place and there are manv fine residences. It is
situated about fifteen miles from the town of Houlton, in
Maine, and lies on the Canadian Pacific Railway. There are
two methods of reaching Woodstock from Fredericton, inde-
pendent of the river route. One is along that portion of the
New Brunswick Railway now operated bv the Canadian
Pacific Railway which runs up the Keswick Valley on the
east side of the St. John River and from Newburg Junction
to Woodstock. The other is via McAdam Junction and

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throuK^h the town of Dubec in Carleton County, this line
runnnifr on the west side of the Saint John River. From
Woodstock there are railway lines practically in four direc-
tions, one runnin^^ up the Saint John River, one to the east-
ward and down the Keswick Valley towards Fredericton and
thence down river, one westward into Maine and the fourth
almost directly southward throu^di southern and western
V ork County to McAdam Junction, from where lines leadin.^
to the United States and difTerent parts of New Brunswick
can be connected with. From this it can be seen that
Woodstock is well situated as far as its transportation
facilities are concerned. But three miles northeast of the
town ot Woodstock lie the best beds of iron ore yet dis-
covered in the Province; these are generally known as the
Woodstock Haematite Bed. To quote from Dr. E.^iley's
report on the mineral resources of New Brunswick: —

"As soon as at Jacksontown and vicinity the ore beds
are quite numerous havin- a thickness ran^rin^. from one foot
to sixteen feet and are conformable to the inclosinj? slates
which usually dip northwesterly at an an^He of eiirhty-five
degrees, though in places much contorted. Individual beds
however, when followed are found to exhibit notable variation
ui width in places. They contain considerable quantities of
manganese which also often gives a black color to the slates,
while occasionally green stainings indicate the presence of
copper. The average of analysis of ore from Iron Ore Hill
made by Mr. John Mitchell of London, and quoted by Dr.
hlls, gave:-Metallic iron, 35.593 per cent; sulphuric "acid,
.723 per cent.; phosphoric acid, 1.298 per cent.

The first attempts to utilize the Jacksontown ores was
made in 184S, when a blast furnace was erected by the
Woodstock Charcoal and Iron Co. upon the bank of the St.
John River, a short distance above Upper Woodstock, and
about two miles and a half from the ore beds. Ore was
obtained by the ordinary process of quarrying, and according
to information supplied to the writer by the manager, Mr.
Xorris Best, was charged as follows:'— Ore, 1.350 lbs.;
lime stone, 70 lbs.; charcoal, 20 lbs. Accordin<- to st^atements

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quot H J),. ,|arrinj,ton. 3.33 tons of ore and 126
'Ou of charcoal were required to make a Icn of pit, iron,

iiarcoal (in 186;) costin^r seven cents a bushel.

Hiere wc.v t.,, . oal kilns, havinjr an averatre

c ucuyo. seven lu v onl^ vood and a production of

twenty-e.ght hundrcJ ,0 bushels of coal. Tl,.

•quantity of ore use.l wa> , .. , avera^^e three tons to the ton

Ot pig, and the cost at the furnace $1.20 per ton.' "

Fo^ uM„ asonor other, probably for lack of funds,

the coi .pan) .vhich was operatin^^ these mines ceased to
.exist and iron smelting at Woodstock is, as Dr. Bailey says
a thmg of the past. It was stated that on account of the
^i.gh percentage of phosphorous, the iron was often found to
be brittle or cold-short t a degree which detracted verv
■much from its value.

" On the other hand", says Dr. Bailc) , "it is difficult
to reconcile this defficiency.^with the sta ments given as to
.experiments made in England with armoured plates con-
structed of Woodstock iron, which, according to a paper bv
Mr William Hurbain. F. R. S., published in the Artisan,
had a resistance in excess of that of any other plate when
tested of tensile strength in tons per square inch of 24.80
It IS also to be observed that the presence of phosporous is
not now the serious objection to the use of iron ores that it
formerly was. There seems no reason whv these mines
should not be taken up by some enterprising'cempanv and
■be worked thoroughly." '

VICTORIA COtJNTY.

Victoria County lying on the north of Carleton is
bounded on the west by Madawaska Countv and Aruost'ool
County, Maine, on the east by Northumberland and the
northern extremity of York Counties, and on the north bv
Kest.gouche County. There is no reason whv this nn'e
county, comprising one million three hundred and twentv-
four thousand two hundred acres, should not be

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trespect as fine a farming county as is Carleton. This it
cnudoubtedly is, the only difference b^ing- that the latter county
fis far better developed. Every portion of Victoria which has
been settled has indicated the excellent quality of its soil
much of which overlies the upper Silurian formation. The
county contains several centres of population which weie
originally (so called) colonies. Considerable numbers of
people were brought to the county and established practical-
ly in the wilderness, the results that they have achieved
showing how successful men can be in a new country, even
when they arrive in an almost indigent condition. To quote
from Mr. Lugrin's hand-book regarding one of thet.e
colonies: —

"The Kincardine Colony is situated in the southern
■part of Victoria County. It was founded in 1873 by colon-
ists from Scotland. The land was not well chosen, a large
part of it being very rough and not such as ought to have
been used in an experiment, such as this colony was. But
the selection was in accordance with the wishes of the
organizer of the colony who was not a resident of New Bruns-
wick. The soil, however, is very fertile. During the first
year the settlers had many discouragements and disadvan-
tages, due in part to the unfulfilment of the promises made
in the prospectus of the colony; promises which were not
warranted by the prospectus of the colony; promises which
were not warranted by the agreement that the Provincial
Government made. But these difficulties were soon over-
come, and the two sections of the colony, Stone Haven and
Kintore, are now in a very prosperous condition. Four
years after the founding of the colony, Mr. David Burns, J.
P., one of the settlers, writing to the Government said :—
'In May, 1873, '" passing through the brushed out track
where the road is now built (at morning sunrise) our vision
•was limited to a few yards by the density of the forest. The
only sound then to be heard were the screaming of the owl,
the snarling bark of the fox and occassionally the indescrib-
•able grunt or whistle of the dreaded bear; but May, 1877.
^shows a different state of matters. In passing along the

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Kincardine Road now, the rays of the'sun are peeping-
throu^-h the tree tops on the Watson Flat. On each side
of the road with few exceptions we have a clearance extend-
rn^r back from two to four hundred yards.' The houses also
show signs of change and improvement. The buildings that
have been added shou- that the requirements ot live stock
have bt.., attended to. The sounds now heard are the
bleatingr of sheep and the lowing of cattle, the bark of the
watch dog, the 'rowing of the chanticleer and amorous
coomg ot the hoi:se dove, and we also see the neat little
garden, both for use and ornament, forming parf of the
homestead of the free, independent farmer. Five years ago
we were preparing to leave the home of our forefathers and
our dear native land that we might obtain such a home as I
have described with a sort of semi-prophetic hope, balanced
by a doubt as to the attainment of the wish, but the ceaseless
stream of time has rolled on and what was then .un- fondest
[^ hope and dearest wish is now an accomplisheu fact. Our

homes are our own, and, if as yet there are no luxuries
there is comfort, and with many, when the harvest is over
they will have a year's provision i„, so what some have
reached will soon be reached by all.'

"This colony has made great progress since Mr
Burns' letter was written. It is provided with its school
houses and highways. The increase in the value of the
settlement in the year 1876 is stated bv the colonists them-
selves to be over $15,000.00."

This was published in 1876 and since that time tre-
mendous changes have come about. The settlement would
not now be recognized by its founders as the later years have
seen a much more rapid progress, proportionately, than in
the case of the former years. Another prominent 'colony*
in Victoria County is the New Denmark Settlement. To this
place a considerable number of Danes were brought and
■ proved excellent settlers. The tract contained in all 17,200
acres. It is all upland. The first settlement, was made in
1872, according to Mr. Lugrin,by a party of emigrants from,
Copenhagen, Denmark, the majority of whom were not

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Black Spruce on Resligoiiche River

It' i

103

tfarmers. It is hard to find anywhere in the Province now a
much better farming section than this settlement, and Mr
Lugrnn m finishing his remarks on it, says there is room in
Victoria County for thousands of such farms as those in New
Denmark. This remark holds good today. Andover the
sh.retown of Victoria County, is situated on the west bank
of the St. John River, on the Canadian Pacific Railway. The
nver curves around the village, which lies on an extensive
interval with farms stretching in every direction from the
edge of the village. Opposite Andover is situated the little
town of Perth, behind which rises a considerable hill. The
view from the upper slopes of this hill looking up the river
^t.John, with Andover winding around its banks, and Perth,
at your feet, is as beautiful as any in the Province.and one of
the finest of its type I have ever seen. I climbed the hill on
the morning ot October the 12th, in 1899, and took some
pictures of the surrounding country. The day was typical
of October in eastern Canada. There was a white glare of
clear sunshine and not a cloud in the skv. There was a
feeling of keeness in the air and the hills ;;howed clear for
thirty miles. Up river the valley of the Tobique could be
traced and its mouth seen on the right bank a mile or two
above. The houses and stores of Andover are built, I think
without exception of wood, and for the most part painted
white. The interval stretches behind them and then the
hills rising beyond, all in a splendid condition of cultivation
wherever cleared. When I arrived in Andover the annual
county fair was in progress, and teams were in from all over
the country. I watched them as they passed the pretty
htt e hotel, now a cart in which were huddled a group of fine
looking sheep would pass followed by the owner, usuallv
accompanied by his entire family in a wagon of no mean
dimensions; then, an express wagon, in which were several
good sized crates, each containing some choice specimens ot
poultry; behind this again some slick, carefully-groomed
cattle, for the most part Shorthornes, Ayrshires and Hol-
steins with an occasional Jersey, and still later a fine looking
pair of draught horses, gaily decorated with ribbons, would

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A Camping Scene.

104

tramp past, to be folloued in short by equally fine lookf,,^
horses o a very different type. Even in Woodstock.which
s noted lor ,ts annual fair, there is not more interest taken,
than .n th.s delightful little river villa^^e. There i.s more
good natured rivalry in the n,atter of the prixes in Victoria
County and ,n the Andover Fair than I have ever seen else-
where, but it must not be supposed that stock is the only
thmg- exhibited; other farm products come in for their share
of attention and amoni,^ other thin^rs particularly fine butt^^r
was to be found at this show. Mr. Tilley. the Government
Dairy expert who was there judginj. the butter, told me that
1 should be surprised beyond measure if I realized the ex-
tent of the improvement in butter-makinj^ throughout the
country as exhibited in these fairs in the few years since the-
introduction of the Dairy Schools and lectures on dairying

Andover is one of the finest centres from which to stlrt
on a big game hunt in the province. It is readily reached
r from St. John by rail. A portion of the trip, can, however,

be made by river as a diversion, if the sportsman so wishes.
The most prominent physiographical feature of the county is
the Tobique River, lying almost entirely in it and draining-
practically the whole county. The stream empties in on the
east side of the St, John River about two miles above Perth
The land here is quite high on both sides of the stream and
the scenery is extremely picturesque. At the mouth of the
Tobique is situated the largest settlement of Malicite Indians
in this part of the country. Many of these Indians are fan,,
ous guides and hunters, and I have never had better men in
the woods than two which I obtained here and took through
the Rest.gouche region with me. If these two men were
types of the Malicites in this village, then I don't wish to see
any harder workers. They w.re willing to work from any
time in the morning until practically any time the next
niorn.ng and did everything with a cheerfulness that made
them, independent of their capabilties-valuable companions
ai a wilderness trip.

The Indian Nation, opposite Campbellton, where dwell
five hundred or so Micmacs, and this village at the mouth of

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the beautiful Tobk,ue River, are the two largest India.
Sett ements now ,n the Province. There are many expert
^u.des and hunters in both of these viila^^es. as is Lo the
case w.th a httle Indian Villa,.e opposite " Fredencton.
There ,s nothn,g that the New Brunswick Indian of today
more thoroughly delights in than guding the sportsman-

tZtw t"'" "'""'"^^ ^^'^^^^ '""^ ^'^ ^--' - --.

The Tob,que R.ver I have mentioned several times through
h.s work. Along the lower stretches.up past Plaster Rocks
hes a very fine farming country and one which is being mosi
rap.dly developed. Beyond this, the river becomes more
and more a wilderness stream, until finally we reach the
S.sson Brook region, a lake of the same being in the centre
of a fine deer and moose country. Beyond Nictau the river
breaks mto four branches. The right hand branch of the
robique flows m from the southeast and into it flows the
Serpentme with a thousand twists and turns draining
S rpe„tn.e I ake. The Serpentine is a picturesque stream

w.th considerable pr.de, that he went down the worst rapid
on he Serpentme in a canoe alone. The Mamo.ekel, a
small stream, flows into Nictau from the northeast, from he

M • ^""'! .^^^^'^l"^ '^-•^•'. 'ealiy deserving the title of the
Mam ob,que River, flowfe from the Nictor Lake and thl
Bald Mountau. huntn.g region. There can be no more de-
.^'htful huntu,g tnp than to start from Andover.with capable
Ind,ans and b.rch bark canoe, and work your way up the
robK,ue to the lake regions, where you are in the centre of
what I have repeatedly spoken of as New Brunswick's finest
b.g game country. On .he day that I reached Andover I had
been there but a little while, when down the St. John two
canoes could be seen approaching, and I was informed that
wo Americans had gone up only two days before, intending
o try S.sson Lake only Tor deer. They had delayed some
• me on the way, until, as I afterwards discovered, one of
the men suddenly remembered that he had an engagement in
New York-only three days after it came to his mind-which

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approach,ntr were .he two men i„ Hue..io„, and ,e „di ,n
had when .hey Mepped asho.e and he,-a„ .^ ,„,'!. ' f '
.he eanoe. and prepare .he ha,,„,e I .h;!;, ," ^

less than .wen.j-tour hours conlh,no„>ly. Thev seemtd ,
niake no mere of,. ,han if .hey had been™, fora , U, " ft"
noon s exerase. All „ig.h. |„n,, .hey ,„a con.e dow . ,e
lower s.rerches o. .he Tobiqne, seeming ,o know by b",i
J".s. where .o go under all circnm.,.a„ees. The ZlT.
that .hey did arrive in time (or .he New Vorker to ! h •
.ra,n which would e: able hln, .o keep h.'et:.;..';^'' "'

Ihe descnp.ions which I have mven fn „.h. ,
■streams i„ ,he province will apply ro'l l ,o h xt """
^.'.o.,eh .hi. is a somewha, diffel . vpt o L ^I'; llT'-

Tobi,. .ake,are ^^.^Ij^ ZZ^^'r^. t^

Hyer falls over a rid.e 3S fef.t' he^hl^.o^ror^lt.^

:Xs idVat;" ^rtiT^rr ^'^^ •" '^

-. mo^e beau.iful .h^f .^..^eTnTtrr.::

.ound::;-iin:t.ti:r B^t: ■ ; ";;; t: '— ."«

The valley ,s more beautiful here from . .

ihe railway runs through the valley, never le,vi„„ T^
nver any dis.a„ce, un.i, Edmunds.o!, .L s ^.Z 'of
Madawaska ,s reached, and the view fro™ ,he .rain,esp:cia,;

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107

ly above the Green River in the St. Basil district, is probably
hiier than at any one point along- its course. I have given
a somewhat more detailed account of this portion of the
country as a whole, in the description of the trip from St.
Leonards Station to the mouth of the Wagon River, and
thence down the Restigouche to Campbellton.

CASUAL DESCRIPTION OF THE RESTIGOUCHE. RIVER
FROM THE MOUTH OK THE WAGAN RIYER
TO CAMPBELLTON,

INCLUDING ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY TRAVERSED

BY THE PORTAGE ROAD, FROM ST. LEONARDS STATION TO

THE MOUTH OF THE WAGAN RIVER.

In a trip of this kind, unless the intention is to "go it
alone," the prime requisite is a first-class man, be he Indian
or white man, and this, fortunately, I was able to fill very
uell through the agency of Mr. Perley. of Andover, who
seemed to be thoroughly confident that he could fit me out
with two first-class Indians.

After arriving at the comfortable little hotel at 4ndover
in an outfit calculated to strike terror to the hearts of the
.nhab.tants of that beautiful little river village, and spendin.^
a night with Mr. Perley, the Indians on the following mor.r-
Hig-, turne .. up for inspection. One, half Indian, half French
Tom Moulton by name, was a lithe, active man, rather tall'
about 2o years of age, who is one of the most expert stream
drivers in that part of the country. The other, N^'ckolas
Lolar, who, I aiterwards learned, was the uncle of the
tormer Indian, was, practically, a full-blooded Malicete with
small, deep-sunken eyes, high cheek bones and a firm well
cat mouth. The latter gentleman turned up resplendent in
a pair of dress shoes and a bright red necktie, which set olT
to good advantage, the remains of what had originally been
a somewhat highly-coloured fancy vest. Mr. Perley intro-
duced me to him in a few well- J,osen words, and asked the

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•elder of the two men what he thought of me. " Guess 'e do
•all right," then turning to me, " Good day!" Now was my
chance to ingratiate myself, so, instead of returning the
somewhat curt English salutation, I replied " Wal a gis kut,"
which is, being interpreted, " It is a fine day."

After making what preliminary arrangements were

necessary, we parted, they to get their canoes in condition,

and I to buy frying-pans and a few other trivial things that

were forgotten, as is usually the case when taking a^'twelve

■days' trip in the wilderness.

The next morning found us on the C. P. R. going north
where the Indians met us at Aroostook Junction. The
party then consisted of, first and most important, Nickolas
Lolar, Malicete Indian, by profession, guide and hunter, ot
the mouth of the Tobique, A'ictoria County. Second, mid
more or less subject to the first, Tom Moulton, Malicete
Indian, more or less ; also, by. profession, guide and hunter;
addmg to his other good points, his facility as a cook, the'
•equal of whom I have never seen in the wilderness. Third
Mr. Maurice D. Coll, at that time engaged in assisting me
in some photographic and other work. Fourth, myself,
profession, not exactly known— tendency towards scientific
and natural history work; among other peculiarities, posses^,.
ing an excellent appetite. We took 125 pounds of provisions
and this dwindled away somewhat rapidly.

On the evening of Friday, Oct. 13, we reached St.
Leonards Station, and piled on the station ph^tform an
•assortment of baggage that attracted the natives for some
iK miles around, and caused them to stand in open-mouthed
wonder, until the same was re'moved to what was to
be our first camping round, as we preferred our own treat-
ment to what might happen us in a St. Leonards hotel.
This baggage consisted of two canoes, one canvas
and one birch-bark, two rifles, the aforementioned 1^0
pounds of grub; one Derby, Abercrombie & Co's water-
proof tent, 10x10; one Primus stove with a one gallon can of
kerosene oilfor usein the same; foursleeping bags; one of the
commonest type of red leather valises that had seen better

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109

-days, and contained among other things, changes of under-
c oth.ng or the leader of the expedition, a peculiarly con-
sructcd lantern; a considerable number of photographic
P ates wh.ch were to assist in immortalising the trip; sundry
bags of smok.ng and chewing tobacco of a quality especial-
ly adapted to Malicete Indians; some pieces of red flan-
nel, connected with thought of accident to the photo-
graphic lantern; a considerable amount of duflle that would
find no service in civilization; and last, but bv no means
leas . the wonderful instrument which kept everything with
-a del.c.ous smell of kerosene oil around it, the photographic
lantern .tself. Besides all these things, were several rafher
bulky lookmg canvas bag., that contained an assortment of
woollen clothes for the rest of the party, calculated to stand
the most severe weather; and, also a box containing the
always essential cooking utensils. Finally, the mo.t im-
portant ot all, the large camera, resplendent in a sole leather
case, upon which was lavished the care of every member of
the expedmon, and which was found to require so much
'nurs.ng, , , be finally known as the ''infernal machine."
Add to all th.s that most wonderful of all mechanical con-
ort.on.sts the photographic tripod, and even the uninitiated
readers w.ll say that this outfit was not the easiest in the
world to transport through 26 miles ot woods, over a rou^^h
portage road, and then, down .20 miles of river by canoed,
through more wilderness to civilization again

■frn .^Vk °''"'u ^""^ ' ^^' °" '° '^' P'^^f"'-'^' than I was con-
f onted by a short, stout gentlemen, with a peculiarly shaped
slouched hat that had evidently seen several winters, u'th
the .n,errogat.on •< Goin' to Restigouche.- on my replying
in the affirmative, he .n.imated that his name was Akerly and
.t was h.s especial prerogative to see that people of my tvpe
reached that beautiful river. After a short period of bar!
ga.nn,g, ue decided that $ro for the trip. ;.,cluding the
transp.rtat.on of the above-mentionrd canoes and baggage,
would be a fa,r amount, and thm M.. A.erly was to tu^n u^
next morn...g at daylight, with a good strong pair of horses
•and a portage waggon-a peculiar, rather narrow and very

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110

heavily-built wagrgon especially adapted to the portaee
roads. ^

As it was then-^^euing dark, it remained but to find a
suitable campin- ground and test the capabilities of Mr
Moulton .s a genius of the frying-pan. After a short hunt,
the necessary place was found, which, though not ideally
situated, afforded convenient access to the village— too con-
venient as we found somewhat later-. No sooner h.-id the
Indians, with the marvellous dexterity of the good men of
their class, got the tents up and their share of the dunnage
transported from the station, and then got the culinary
operations in full swing, then the population of St. Leonards-
Station turned out en bloc to visit our camp and inspect the
contents and occupants. The majority of them spoke no
Knghsh, and, as our French was not of the most fluent type,
the conversation sometimes lagged so decidedly as to create
silences which were almost painful, or rather would have
been if the Indians had not filled in the gaps by admonitions
to small French boys, in a language which both seemed to
understand, to keep their feet out oi the sugar and not to
walk all over the sleeping bags; coupled with gentle requests
to one young lady to kindly get up off the butter, which she
had been sitting on some five minutes before discovered.
This butter the leader of the expedition finally had to rescue
with a few well-chosen French words, recollected from his.
college course, and ended by depositing the same, after it
had been pressed back into approximately its original shape,
in a wooden box, trom which it was not subsequently re-
moved during the expedition, except as required for use.

After a time, as the night grew older, we received less,
attention, and finally we were able to crawl into our sleeping
hags, and enjoy the first night out doors under the genial
influence of a blazing fire, the material for which the Indians
had collected beforehand.

St Leonards Station is a small village on the upper St.
John River, in iMadawaska County. The St. John here
forms the boundry line between the Province of New Bruns-

wick and the State of Maine

in the United States. St.

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Leonards is situated directly opposiie the American town of
Van Burcn m tlie above state. Thronghout this section ot
the nver there are no intervals of any extent, but the river
runs between comparatively high banks. Not tar above the
village IS the Grand River, emptying into the St. John on the
eastern or New Brunswick side, while some distance farther
up, the Green River flows in on the same bank. Both of these
streams are almost wholly within Madawaska County, and
down them, in the spring, especially in the case of the latter
river, come great drives of logs to the St. John, to join the
millions of feet that come down the main St. John River
from the State of Maine. Still farther up is the Madawask.-i
Kiver. which drains Lake Temiscouata and seven.l other
wilderness lakes in the Province of Quebec. All through
this region is a great deer, moose and caribou countrv, while
111 the region of Lake Temiscouata, and especially 'of the
Squatook, one of the most famous of the other wilderness
lakes. The black bear, now becoming much rarer th;,n form-
erly ,n the eastern provinces of Canada, is to be found in
considerable numbers. Dr. Philip Cox mentions the
Squatook Lake as the region where the black bear is probab-
ly more plentiful than elsewhere in this vicinity.

Edmundston, the shiretown of Madawaska County, is a
small town situated at the mouth of the Madawaska river.
The land in this region, namely in the western portion of
Madawaska County, and extending across the St. John river
into Aroostook County, Maine, is a continuation of that
great Silurian belt which extends across Madawaska, North-
ern Victoria and Restigouche Counties, and which, com-
prising several million acres, forms the finest upland for
farming purposes in the Province of New Brunswick. A
large amount of this land, about a million acres, is owned by
the New Brunswick Railway Co. Though the land is of the
hnest quality, but very little of it has, as vet.been developed,
the greater part still being in magnificent timber. In the
last few years, however, farming has made tremendous
strides in the County of Madawaska. Where only a year
.or two ago, on-^ cheese and butter factory found it so difficult

to keep in operation, that thouj^hts of closinj,' were actually
entertained, now after the Provincial Government has sent
lecturers through the district, and promulj,'ated farmers*
institute meetin^fs, several of these Invaluable institutions are
in active operation, and fatminj-;- in Madawaska, as else-
where in the Province, is taking strides which show that the
eyes o( tiie farmer are being opened to the possibilities
brought about by new methods and new conditions.

The beauties of the St. John river and its wilderness
tributaries, in this region are peculiar to the region itself.
The land, without being mountainous, is to a great extent
high, especially farther back in the county, with a few rather
sharp hills. The uncivilized districts are most heavily
wooded with a grer ' preponderence of spruce, as in other
parts of the Province bn^ Sere and there, fine tracts of hard-
wood, which will be aescribed later, are to be found.

But to return to the expedition:— On the morning fol
lowing our reception of the St. Leonardites, in fact betore a
trace of daylight, the Indians were astir, had fanned the fire
into new life, and had breakfast under way, before the other
members of the camp thoroughly realized that they had been
asleep.

It was as beautiful an October morning as one could
wish to see ; clear, cool and bracing, with hardly a tra :e of
a breeze to waft the sound ot the sheep bells from the ad-
joining hills. The only sign of life was the occasional high
white pillar of smoke, as it flowed slowly upward from the
chimney of some early riser.

The breakfast was a New Brunswick one throughout:
Dunn's bacon, a St John County product; baked beans,
grown and canned in Carleton County; brown-bread, made
by some piystic but highly successful formula, by iMr Moul-
ton, from wheat that had found its way from King; ITounty
almost 200 miles south, with a quart of milk which had been
the spontaneous donation of one of the French girls, who
had visited us the evening before. The offering was
made through the mediation of a small brother, whose
absence of English was fully as fluent as w'as ours of French,

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and who led i,s to understar.d that, thui .,'h we were perfectly
welcome to the milk, he wanted to take the pitcher haci; with
him.

The French, in this part of the country, differ somewhat
trom those of the more Southern and Eastern parts of the
Province; not in appearance, but in being somewhat more
careful with regard to whom they place their faith in at first
sight. Thi . is a natural result from their close proximity to
their friends across the river.

Breakfast was hardly fmished, before, with a cracking
of whips and a rattling of chains, the portage waggon
accomp.-,n:ed by Mr. Akerly, with a considerable retmue of
young people which he afterwards informed me, was the
minority o( his family, and a small minority at that, hove in
sight around the bend of the road. It was a matter of but a
little time to get the tent down, and the dunnage packed.
It took somewhat longer, however, to get the canoes lashed
in place on the portage waggon. The canvas one, being the
heavier and stronger, was placed below on a bed of hay,
while the birch-bark was inverted over it, and lashed securely
in place.

By the time that this was finished, and the outfit carefully
packed to withstand the vicissitudes to which it would be
subjected in going through a lumber portage road in the
Autumn, the sun was well above the horizon, and we had to
be on the move if we expected to reach the Restigouche Ri-er
by nightfall Mr. Akerly very kindly offered to drive the
white men of the party as far .-s the carriage could be taken
about ten miles; the rest of the distance we should, of course,
have to go on foot, which was anything but a trial in such
.nagnificent weather. After adding a few more cans of baked
beans to the commissariat— this precaution we observed
after noting the amoui>t eaten at breakfast and making a few
lightning calculations on the probable result— we started on
our morning drive.

There had been no frost during the night, and every-
t!iing looked as fresh and green as in spring. The sun
•shone with a perfect glare and lighfed up the river as it

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the St. John nver fo,- .ome miles, and then, turninff to the

right plunged Hway to„-ards the wilderness and the Resti-

gouche Hill after hi,, was sut.oun.ed, the land et".

vhere showng the exceHent c|uality of the soil, until finall ■

. arnved at the last house before entetin,, the wiiderne ^

Inl ; ""'"" I """"■ '"■"'^""•^ '""''^ °f ^""^^0 logs

and ontatn.ng a French family, which was sufficiently lafg
to ni a house of at least four times its size. The onl I fe
stock,,, sight was the ubiquitous ra.or-backed p^^H
never fed but allowed to shift for himself. Th's h do
most efficently, turning up so much land by the roads de"
h,s struggle for existence, that one might suppose tto^
ernment road machine had been paying a visit to the d s.r ct
When tak.ng a picture of the house, the .-amilv Z,;
pos,t,ons at points of vantage, where they'clu d vTtt "the
operations through clinks and cracks, wi.houtany da"^e, of
be,„g ,„volved ,n the outcome, whatever that might be

A .short time after our arrival, astill further contingent
of appa,e„tly the same family, turned up in ,, ,wo-wh" e ed
afta,r, drawn by a pair of steers, which arrived at the rate of
about one mile an hour, and took some time to top Thts
|s a very popular type of conveyance among the French In
d es ,„ th,s section of the country, it having tho dva, ta";
ofcarry,ng: w,th equal facility, a load of hay or Z7X
f:.m,ly, w,th only two or three authentic instances of
aways to its discredit. '"stances of run-

withThe'""' ""'-""^ '" '""'' '"^ "'' °"""' ""d i' '"™ed up
w.th the ren,a,n,ng members of the party riding the birch

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dri>e usthrough fo the Restigouche F ^tTthr "'","'" '"
member of the party who co^.d i le', wa ,o Hk ," ™'j
).e, tmdoubtedly, would have much perfol'erflking ' ' ""'
The first part of the road led through a dense .4w,h „,-
".oderate si.ed soft-wood, chiefly black^nd rid spr'L:: wit°:

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115

an occasional fir; somewhat further on, a few hemlocks
could be found, and still farther, the road continued rising-
somewhat rapidly, until it was comparatively dry. From
here, for the next hour or so, our path lay through the most
magnificent hardwood, with only an occasional spruce swamp
where the portage was almost impassible on account of the
mud.

About two hours after leaving the last house, we came
to a first-class brook; as, by this time, we had appetites
which boded ill for the 120 pounds of provisions, we decided
to have dinner. The horses were unhitched and fed, and we,
in a short time, were enjoying a dinner which the Indians
had prepared in a seemingly marvellously short time. The
day was as clear and bright as a day in June; the maples
flamed scarlet and gold, and even the sombre green of the
spruce was lighted up by the sunshine, which seems to have
a peculiar whitish glare at this time in the Autumn.

In a short half-hour, dinner was over, the cookin-
utensils packed, the horses hitched, and with the tinklino- o^f
the big bells always carried by horses on the portage'' we
were up and at it again. We had thought that the road
before dinner was bad, but our experience after that meal'
showed us that it was but a slight introduction to what was
to follow. We had six hours ahead of us in which to make
twelve miles to the Restigouche river, and this seemed a
great deal of time, but, with a few stoppages we had made
when an occasional picture was to be taken, we found that
we had all we could do to reach the river bank before night-
fall. After passing the brook-where we had dinner-which
wound Its way oflF in the direction of the Grand River we
mounted a high ridge, and passed through the finest hLrd-
wood land that it has ever been my good fortune to see. On
every hand giant trees, now almost denuded ot leaves
threw a complete net-work of interlacing shadows, under
the influence of the clear October sunlight; black and
yellow birches, rock maples and sugar maples, and
an occasional hickory, and, in the lower portions of this
ndge. a scattering o^ ash, made up the greater portion

116

of this arboreal canopy. The soil was a clear, moder-
ately heavy dark loam, almost absolutely free from stone, the
upper layers of which were practically made into a compost
by the thousands of tons of leaf-mold, which lay deep on
every acre. There is but little undergrowth, and long- vistas,
which seem to belong rather to a beautiful park than to an
unclaimed wilderness, stretch away on every hand. The
"floor" of the wood had been clothed with multitudes of
beautiful ferns, now twisted and broken and browned with
the frost, but still beautiful, while here and there, brilliant
green patches of Christmas fern, were in evidence.

Some portions of the road passed through practically
unmixed hardwood, while along others, an occasional spruce
or fir, generally of gigantic dimensions, wns to be found.
Though the season was a dry one, the spruce swamps, of
which two or three not very extensive ones, are to be found
throughout this harc|vvood belt, were very wet, and the
portage road developed into nothing but a big ditch, through
which the horses floundered with water up to their bellies,
and up to the hubs of the wheels of the portage waggon.
The efforts of the different members of the party to force
their way through the thick growth of spruce, on either side
of the road, rather than wade thigh deep through the mud
and water, would form an interesting study for anyone in a
positon to enjoy the scene, without actually participating
in it.

After leaving these swamps which furnished a rest to
the horses, the road, as far as the waggon was concerned,
was incomparably worse. Huge roots from birch or maple,
projected across and sometimes threw one side of the waggon
up so far that it seemed in imminent danger of capsizing.
Once or twice, while I tried to rescue my camera 'from a
particularly heavy shock, one of the canoes, as the waggon
lurched, threw me backward lo or 12 feet, into a
young hardwood. The Indians, who were of a highly
humorous disposition, enjoyed this part of the journey tre-
mendously. .At one time the front of the waggon would be
high in the air, with young .Akerly with one arm around the

117

canoe on which he was perched, as if he were trying to keep
himself from sliding off the back of a mustang; the next, the
front of the canoes would be down, until they almost rested
on the horses' rumps, and the driver would be making wild
struggles to keep from changing his seat from the canoe to
the back of one of the horses. The hubs banged against
trees sufficiently hard to have broken an ordinary waggon;
the bells tingled and clanged, the horses struggled and
pulled with all their might, for a moment or two, to over-
come some obstruction, and then, as the waggon rushed
down behind them, held back like Swiss jaskasses, on the edge
of an Alpine precipice, buckling to again as the load was
finally checked. They, like the driver, who was accustomed
to such experiences remained for the most part, imperturable
and did their best in a matter-of-fact way.

The rest of the procession struggled or trudged behind,,
according to tne nature of the ground; the Indians bringing,
, up the rear, apparently taking a step only when it seemed,
convenient, and alighting in absolutely th > correct spot,
whether at the end of an ordinary step or of a seven or eight-
toot jump. Occasionally one would make a remark to the
other,which was generally concisely answered and accompani-
ed by a laugh that was hardly louder than a white man's^smile.
After about five hours of this work, we arrived at a
branch road leading to a prospective camp of one of the lum-
ber gangs, which was to work in that region during the
winter. Here we found a considerable quantity of stores:—
barreled salt pork, plate beef, molasses, oats for the horses,
flour, and enormous quantities of that most prominent of all
camp supplies— beans. Here we stopped for a few moments,
and examined a string of grouse, which one of the men of
the gang had evidently shot; then, as there was but an hour
or so of light, we pressed on so that we might cover the
remaining two and a half miles before absolute darkness
came on. The road from this point on was, as a whole,
rather better, though there were one or two very bad places
where the waggon was almost on top of the horses. Gradually
we descended into spruce land again, and, at last, with

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practically no indications of it, we came out upon a beauti-
ful little brook which turned out to be the far-famed Resti-
gouche River. Here, as we had expected, we were g-reeted
by a gang- who were out building a camp preparatory to the
season's lumbering for Nickson and Burt, one o( the prom-
inent lumber operators in this part of the country.

They invited us to supper, and as it was then dark and
sprinkling rain, we were only too glad to accept. The meal
consisted of baked beans, as a backbone, with a large mug
of tea and a slice of bread running entirely across the loaf,
and about three inches in thickness — at least part of it did —
This order, needless to say, was repeated several times. In
a lew minutes the Indians had the tent up, and the horses,
picketed beside those of the lumbermen, were munching
away at their oats with an enjoyment, no doubt, strongly
accentuated by the consciousness of having done a day's
work to be proud of. .Alter the meal was over, we thanked
our hosts and retired to our tent. By the time we arrived
there the Indians, who had left somewhat sooner and less
ceremoniously, had gathered enough fire boughs to make a
luxuriant spring bed over the whole floor of the tent, a foot
ip thickness, and were stretched out on their portion of it
enjoying their first smoke. As the white men of the party
had not entirely severed their connection with civilization up
to the present, and had a few letters to write, this work was
accomplished, and th^y vere given to young Akerly who
was to take them up with him on his return journey and
mail them at St. Leonards; then all but myself, after polish-
ing up rifles and seeing that everything was in good condi-
tion, rolled into their sleeping bags, and in a time only
possible after a long day's tramp through the woods in
October, had passed out of remembrance of the joys and
•sorrows of this lite, and the only indications that they were
alive, lor that matter that there was any life in the district,
was the sonorous snores that thundered out from beneath that
peculiar blanket construction which Mr. Coll termed his sleep-
ing bag, and mingled with the persistent champ, champ,
,cham.p, as the horses ate their hav.

**«te^

119

The threatened storm had passed off; the sky was clear
except when, now and then, a small fuzzy cloud floated
across the face of the moon, and cast weird, grotesque
shadows on the gleaming white tent and the restless little
stream. On every side the green, conical spruces rose dark
and silent, and between them both up and down stream the
little river disappeared.

The nearest house was the last one we had left, a dis-
tance of some sixteen or eighteen miles to the southwest- to
the north and southeast, one could travel over a hundred
miles without finding any sign of civilization, and, with one
or two exceptions, there were no houses to the east for that
distance. It was indeed in the wilderness, and still within
close touch of the most modern civilization.

The place, the surroundings and the conditions were
such that would touch anyone who did not have an inherent
love for the wilderness, but for one that did, that love was
deepened and the appreciation increased, as it always is in
scenes of this sort. Just before turning in, I heard in the dis-
tance the muffled roar of the Ruffed Grouse as it drummed
to the moonlight.

T;ie next morning was Sunday, and broke clear and
bng. without a cloud in the sky. The men were astir
early, and our companion of the day before, after giving his
horses a good feed, got underway again for St. Leonards
Station. A few moments after he left, the tinkling of the
bells died away in the dense spruce on the hills above.

After breakfast was over in the two camps, the lumber-
men, as there was necessarily no church to attend, decided
to do the next best thing, and go fishing. The apparatus,
needless to say, was not elaborate, though there were one or
two fish-hooks among the party. It consisted, in most cases
of a piece of white twine, at the end ot which was attached a
bent pin. It seems horrible to sportsmen to have to say it,
especially to one who has any respect for one of the gamiest
of fish, the most famous of all the trouts: Sa/mo fontunalis,
but the only bait which they then had at their dispo..al and
used on that occasion, was salt pork.

i'l

11 ! t

120

After breakfast I took one of the canoes, and, with the
aid of the pole, proceeded some distance up river. I took the
camera with me, and, after going as far as I could, took a
picture of the river where it was nothing but a narrow brook,
splashing and bubbling over stones, with hardly a place
where' even a moderate sized trout could find his way. Far-
ther down stream, at various pools that I passed, the lumber-
men had taken up their positions, and were having sport
such as before in their lives they had perhaps not even read of.

When I got within a hundred yards of camp, Nickolas
caught sight of me and informed me that I had better hurry
up as "der was two tree patridge was mebbe 'bout lo feet
from camp, and suppose um could shoot um pretty easy if
had rifle out — dunno were catridge is." I got to camp as
quickly as I could and started with the rifle, which was a
.303 calibre Winchester, and in a few minutes, had got
three birds; then I gave the rifle to the Indian, and he con-
tinued the hunt, bringing back three more, all of which were
obtained within seventy-five yards from camp. These, as
was the case with all the birds we got during the trip were
Ruffed Grouse. By the time we had got the brids skinned
and dressed, the hour for dinner had arrived, and, if part-
ridge tastes well in civilization, it is a hundred times more
delicious when your appetite has been whetted by life in the
open air. The six partridges, among the four of us, disap-
peared as incidentals to a meal made up of baked beans,
bacon, coff'ee and the other excellent things we had brought
with us, and were now beginning to appreciate. Before we
■were through with dinner, the fishermen began to turn up. The
majority of them having before this got thoroughly wet, took
the easiest road home, and came splashing down through
the pools and shallows of the ice cold river. Needless to say
they were delighted, even the sportsmen among them had
never had such sport of the kind, and some of them had
strings of trout which dragged along the ground as they car-
ried them. They v.-ere not small; possibly none of them
weighing less than half a pound. They, like ourselves,
would have a luxurious addition to their routine bill of fare.

121

Thoug:h the neighborhood was a pleasant one, as the
flat-to-let advertisements in cities generally states.we decided
that it would be advisable to move down stream to less
civilized headquarters, and, while the Indians were getting
the tent down and the duffle packed up, I got a picture of
the lean-to, which was then the only habitf tion of the lumber-
men. This was a small spruce frame covered with blankets
and opening on on. side, in front of which was always kept
blazing a large fire. A cooking stove, which had been sent
out to go into the camp, was set up alongside of a big spruce
tree, with several joints of stove pipe supported by small
branches, and poured its white smoke up through the dark
green canopy above.

Each man's bedding consisted of a large blanket. These
were the luxuries which went to make their lives happy, and
if other lives were as happy proportionally as their number
of luxuries increased, there would be much less grumbling in
the world than at the present time. By the time I had got
back to the pool in the front of the tent, the canoes were
loaded. The larger of the two, owned by Lolar, containing
the instruments and more extensive portion of the outfit; the
smaller, the birch-bark, carrying the cooking utensils and
most of the bedding. Unless one has travelled by canoe in
the hands of a stalwart Indian, it is very difficult to form any
idea of how absolutely comfortable one can be in such.

In this case Nickolas had fitted up a place in the centre
of the canoe where there was room even for me to stretch
out my entire length of six feet three inches. Under me
and at my back he had arranged the tent until it was as com-
fortable as a divan piled with cushions. Behind me,and in the
extreme bow of the canoe, was piled the dunnage, while in
the stern he had left room enough for himself to stand
comfortably. Everything being ready, we started on the
trip down river, which as far as 1 am concerned, has never
been equalled for pleasure. We hr.d hardly gone forty yards
before the first obstruction was reached. It was a big
spruce log which had fallen across the river, and it seemed
impossible for a canoe to force its way through the tangle of

Ii!5 f.i'

'i'^

122

branches beneath it. The Indian apparently knew better,
for he went as straight at it as if there was nothing in the
way, and. with a vigorous push on the pole which would
have thrown a man less accustomed to a canoe into the
water, suddenly ducked. The branches broke and crackled
aside, and with a swish as they swung back into place, we
glided out into a clear stretch of water and H iHy round
a sharp bend where the river ran shoal, over a bed of pebbles.
Here no poling could serve, so catching the pole under the
thawrts.the Indian went overboard, and, walking ahead, seized
the canoe by the bow and dragged the whole until in deep
enough water to get in again. The birch canoe, coming be-
hind, being somewhat more lightly laden, was more fortunate,
and her skipper had less frequently to test his muscles in this
way. Tom, however, had the disadvantage, which he did
not seem to regard as such of not having rubber boots,
while Nickolas, or Nipk as he was henceforth called, though
it was not a case of familiarity breeding contempt, was more
fortunate in this respect.

And so we proceeded, for the most part, poling, the
water not being, as a rule, over six or seven inches deep,
but sometimes, again, having to resort to dragging the
canoe over shoal places. To one unaccustomed to seeing
the vicissitudes ordinarily gone through by the average
canoe, it would have seemed impossible that these could
have withstood being dragged along over the rough stony
bottom of Mie river.

The stream itself is, in this region, as for that matter,
through nearly the whole length of its course, heavily tim-
bered on both sides. It varies in width, along the upper
section, from twenty feet to perhaps twenty yards, with
an occasional pool, containing perhaps eight to ten feet of
water. It winds about, here and there, with a steep spruce-
clad bank rising now on one side, now on the other on the
convex sides of the river's current; while on the concave
sides stretch away for two or three hundred feet, a little
aluvial plain with a growth of lowland hard-wood. Occasion-
ally close to the water's edge, on these flat lands, a sharp

123

rustle would be heard followed by the patterin^^ foot- falls, of a
Grouse, as he started off amonj,' the dead leaves, and the
Indian would cease polinf-, say "partridge," at the same
time keeping his eye fixed on a few waving blades of dead
grass and blasted ferns that marked the path of the wary
bird, while he would take the rifle and step quickly over-
board, leaving me to guide the canoe hito a place of safety.
In a few minutes he would return, usually bringing a bird
with him and with the remark, "some more fresh meat," or
something equivalent, would take up his pole again.

The water of the River Restigouche is a revelation to
anyone accustomed to the average type of stream: cold as
ice, Summer or Winter, and clear as crystal, with hardly a
trace of vegetable growth to hide the beautiful hues of the
many colored pebbles that make up its bed. Its every source
flows from the absolute wilderness, without a trace of civiliz-
ation to pollute its waters on any of its five tributaries.
"A thread of limpid crystal,
From a thousand mountain streams."
Nowhere is the wonderful clearness of its waters as fully
realized as when crossing some ot the deeper pools such as
are found further down the river. Every pebble can be seen,
and every trout, as it glides rapidly away frightened by the
shadow of the canoe; the depth of the pool not seeming
more than five or six feet, when in reality it may be fifteen or
eighteen in the deepest parts. Never have I seen a strean;
look more beautiful than did this wilderness river on that
bright October morning. The sunlight had its usual Autumtr
brilliance, a fresii northeasterly breeze shook the tops of the
majestic spruces, and occasionally sent a scurrying cat's-paw
over the surface of the water in some quiet pool a hundred feet
below. There was no sound except the swish of the breeze
through the spruces; the gurgling or babbling of the River as it
rushed over some gravelly shoal or some solitary rock that
threw its nose above the surface, and the sharp clank of the
steel-shod canoe pole, accompanied by the pattering of the
water on the sides, as the canoe, under new impetus from
the muscles of the doughty Nickolas, shot rapidly along with

124

the swift current. Occasionally as we would pass some deep
likely-lookin},' hole under the bank, a giant trout, which as
the Indian said, "draw more water dan we do" would y;o
rushing,'- down stream through the shoals and little channels,
throwing up a track of spray, the clear drops of which
glistened like silver in the brilliant sunlight. The Indian
would nod his head and laughing say, "got urn bad scare
dat time!" In one or two cases the fish, after having rushed
perhaps seventy-five yards, ran into water so shoal that it
was forced to ti rn and run up stream again. From ahead
we saw the spray fly as the fish got Jnto shallow water, and
then the wave, broken by an occasional splash as it rapidly
retraced its course. Nickolas dropped his pole and went
overboard, pushing the canoe to a place of safety, then again
seizing the pole, waded to shoaler watei near where the big
trtut had to pass on his return journey. On he came, now
running fast, and splyshing past stones and through shal-
lows, now running quietly and slowly through the deeper
channel, his movements only indicated by the wave thrown
up. As the fish came near, the Indian got solid footing and
poised his pole. Suddenly beneath the clear water, a long
black shadow appeared, moving slowly with hardly a ripple
above it. The Indian waited for a second. Quick as a flash
the trout saw him, as he slowly swung the pole. The fish
darted forward. Instantly the Indian struck into the cloud
of flying spray that n.;irked the path of the trout, the shoe of
the canoe pole clanged hard against a stone, and glanced
perhaps not half an inch from the fish as he rushed past.
But the half inch was sufficient; and the track of bubbling
water and flashing spray was continued up stream.

But he had another danger to overcome, as he went
past the birch bark canoe, Moulton leaned forward and cut
with the paddle, the blow struck home but v/as not heavy
enough, and the Indian went overboard and the struggle be-
gan. The half stunned trout swam blindly here and there,
now under halt sunken bushes, now through shoals, followed
by a bounding, laughing, water-soaked Indian with a canoe
pole in one hand and a paddle in the other, who nnw jabbed

125

the pole under a big rock then looked round in bewilderment
for a moment or two, after which a big wave could be seen
zig-zaging away or circling around in an apparently aimless
manner, and the pursuit was renewed again. By this time,
the other Indian had splashed his way to where the encount-
er, which had now become a sanguinary one. was in pro-
gress- The picture as these two men rushed laughing
around, with poles held aloft, now up to their hips in water,
now running wildly through three or four inch shallows, to
gam some point of vantage, was one not easily forgotten,
and a striking illustration of the boyishness ot the Indian,
no matter what his age. At last a lucky blow from one of
the poles— no one yet seems to know which did the work—
the big fellow was fairl; speared through the gills, and up
on the pomts of the tuo poles, he was hoisted from his
native element, never again to return to it. He weighed a
httle over y/, pounds, and made another acceptable addition
to the larder.

When we again resumed our course on the river, the
sun had begun to throw its rays at a heavy angle across the
tree tops, its radiance changing from silver whiteness to a
reddish glare that lighted up the spruces with a copper glow
as though they were attempting to rival the golden splendor
of the maples below.

It was nearly four o'clock when we came to the mouth
of Hunter's Brook, a fair sized stream flowing into the Resti-
gouche from the south side. On a bar at the mouth of the
Brook, was pla.ited a stick surmounted by a chip, on which
was written something relative to there being a camp some
•three miles up the Brook, which would serve as a shelter to
the hunter. But owing to its author's lack of tuition in Eng.
hsh we were not enabled, ven with the efforts of the Indians
to discover its whole purport. As the sun was sinking when
we lett the Brook, it remained but to fii i a suitable camping
-ground. After about a mile further poling, we came to a
site formerly occupied by one of the Government fish war-
<iens, Guisseppe Violette, and it turned out to be an excellent
place to. pitch our tent. As a bear had visited the place

llii

126

between Mr. Violette's departure and our advent, we found it
necessary to fill up with moss and stones, several holes
which that inquisitive animal had dug in the tent floor. But
with this exception, practically everything- was ready for
occupancy. The canoes were then turned over and the
bagrs^age carried up to our new home.

The evening- was clear and promised to be cold, and, in
a few moments the sound of the axe echoed and re-echoed
among- the trees as the Indians cut the bark logs in prepar-
ation for a frosty night. They soon had a pile of fire-wood
that would have kept an old fashioned fire place g-oing for
several days, and before darkness had fairly come on had
g-athered the usual bed of soft, springfy odoriferous "browse."
The big- trout, which had been the hero of one of the in-
teresting- episodes of the day was soon sizzling- and splutter-
ing: in the frying-pan. The "kid" was making vast prepar-
ations for sleeping in icomtort, in the way of putting on
additional layers of underclothing. One or two owls,
always inquisitive and fond of fire-light, were quietly moving
about from tree to tree and watching our every movement.
By the time supper was ready and the enormous mugs ot
coffee poured, the moon, one day nearer the full, was
lighting up the dark spruce across the river and touching
the tree tops high above our heads, while down below, the
camp fire threw its ruddy, flaring,hom--like glow out through
the intersticies of the long feathery branches. After supper
the problem arose as to how 1 should get sufficient darkness
in which to change plates. The question was explained to
the Indians, and, after a few moments thought, solved satis-
fact. rily by them in this remark. "We make um little camp
mside big camp wid blankets, dat be plenty dark, guess,"
which they proceeded to do. The necessary frame was then
made of birch seedlings and in less time than it takes to tell,
the little camp was a reality, and the most exacting photo-
grapher could not have wished anvtbing darker. Not a
night passed on the trip without the first question after
supper being, "want um little camp tonight?' and they
seemed to evince a real interest and pleasure in its

•"mm»^.

127

construction, which was always accompanied with a ^ood
niany jokes.wh.ch my acquaintance with Malicete-fortunate
ly for my own self conceU-did not always lead m "
thoroughly comprehend. About half-past eight, we turned
in to sleep the sleep of the woodsmen.

All the upper portion of the Restigouche River, from its
source down to some distance below the Gounomil. Rive
has not cut down very deeply into the formation through

ly elevated. The country, as is the case farther west in
Madawaska County, is somewhat undulating, with no " a ^
h.lls and .s covered with a continuous heavy growth of
timber, cons.stmg, for the most part of spruce

When we arose next morning, the frost had clothed the
bushes m a wh.te. glittering mantle, and round the ed J of
the R.ver, and in the little back-waters, there was fronTone
quarter to one-half inch or ice. The air w^< H« T,

, ;. a„. .He »., c,oua...s a» „„ ,He p^^^rdt ^ t^^^,

was ready as ,he firs, rays of .he sun glared through .1 e , ^
tops and h. up .he slowly ascending smoke. A half-l w
sufficed .0 fin.sh breakfast and break camp, and, in a few
n,omen.s afterwards every.hing „as in .he canoe ,nd t,
scene was left m charge of .he ubiqut.ous, alvvays-i c,t,isi. ve
and always-hungry Canada Jay, who, for some ten or Bf e
m.nu.es ,„ language known only .o Canada Javs and woods-
men, ad been expostulating wi.h us for keepi.lghim so lo'g
from h,s well-earned breakfast. When I sav well-earned
I mean .ha, he had been wa.ching i, with mor'e or le!s o, !
stancy ever smce we had landed .he night before

The morning, .o say .he leas., was cool and .he water
was ,cy, bu. the firs, shallows saw the Indians overboard a
usual, apparently caring no more tor cold water than if thev
were a pa,r of salmon. We had hardly gone 300 yards from
.he camp before, as we rounded a sharp bendin .he RiV r^
flock of Black Duck, .hat King of New Brunswick game
ducks, com,. ,s,ng perhaps twenty.five or thirty birds, rose
w,th a great Happing of wings, and quacking on. .heir ex!
pos.ulat.ons, went whirring away down the River. Several

.;'^S*in»; , ..iiprP'"""™~

128

times we disturbed them, as they would also follow the
stream down, until, tired at last of being- so persistently
interrupted, they wheeled away over the woods, and doubling-
their track, returned, no doubt, to the large pool from
whence we had at first driven them. A few miles below this
we encountered another smaller flock, and a short distance
below, still another; while just before the time arrived to
stop for dinner, a large flock of red-breasted Mergansers
burst away at a seventy mile an hour gait, and must have
flown past our camp ot that night as we saw no more of
them.

Here and there as we got further down the River, along
one bank or the other, we would meet with an occasional
swamp where large ceders hung their feathery foliage over
the River, and the spruces were festooned with great string-
ers of the white lichen (old man's beard) which waved and
streamed in the soft northerly wind. The River was deepening
somewhat by this time, and the Indians had less often to
drag the canoes over the shallows. Here and there a half-
sunken bush would save us from running into a sharp stone,
but even with all the care exercised by the Indians, occa-
sionally the canoe would glide up on a rock, until 1 would feel
that I was getting directly on top of it, and would wonder
how the canoe could possibly stand the strain. A big lurch
and heave would set her free again, however, and on we
would go as easily as befoie. Then again there would be a
shoal to surmount with perhaps another one beyond a dark
pool, and the Indian would sit on the bow with his feet
dangling in the water until the deep water was passed, and
then a-.ain have to drag and twist the canoe over the rocks
below. Now we would glide into a long quiet stretch where
there would be perhaps sufficient water to use the paddle,
and then, from farther down streani a new sound would
arise — the deep rippling roar that denotes a rapid.

The Indian then stands up with pole in hand, moving
the canoe, as she runs more and more s.viftly towards the
obstruction, from one side of the stream to the other, his
keen eye scanning every ripple that indicates a rock and

129

every roll that shows where the deep water is. The stream
narrows until it is barely twenty feet in width, and thou.^h
the rocky portals on either side of the opening rushes green
clear and smooth only to break into a thousand little curlinj
waves below. The canoe moves swiftly on, allowed to go at
her own free will for a few yards, then as the keen eye of her
owner sees that she is going too far to one side, the pole is
swung quickly forward, the iron shoe wedges itself firmly
between two rocks on the bottom, and the Indian throws his
whole weight on the slender stick. The canoe stops as if by
mag.c, and the water rushes and foams past. Her stern
however, has been pushed far enough aside, and as the cur-
rent agaai carries her on, and is assisted by one last mighty
push from the Indian, she glides into the smooth, green tor
rent, passes, like a race-horse, the sharp rocks over which
he water .s toaming, and glides into the turbulent, leaping
foam below. As far as the motion of the canoe is concerned
It .s hard to realise that she is increasing speed in the upper
part of the rap.d, and except for the rapidity with which th^
rocks move past, and the swish of the breeze as she leaps-
forward, one hardly knows from whence comes the exhilera-
tion.

Here we came upon the first signs of lumbering we had
seen su.ce we left the mouth of the Wagan. A brough of
logs was p,Ied on the left bank of the river, while farther
down other broughs were in sight, and we soon came across
he gang a party of Mr. Gunter's men, who were busy with
the.r m.d-day meal. The logs are cut and "snaked" by
horses out to convenient positions on the river bank, where
they are p.led n. broughs ready to be driven down with the
sprmg freshet.

We dined at a ferny glade directly across the river from

one of the finest specimens of u6/es nigra, the black spruce

as one would wish to see, at least as far as size is concerned,'

hough I have seen more symn.etrical trees. It towered be'

ween 80 and go feet above the river, and stands an excellent

ype of one of the most useful of timber trees with which

th.s part of New Brunswick is abunJantly blessed. At a

130

'l.-'i

ipoint near where we stopped, the river narrowed and deep-
.ened, with an overhangfing- bank on one side, which place
immediately woke the fishing instincts in the "kid." The
result was that, with the aid of a birch pole and some pieces
oi ham, his fishing- tackle manag-ed to procure for us some
.good sized trout.

A short time alter dinner, we crossed the boundary line
into Victoria County, through the extreme northwest corner
of which the Restigouche River runs.

After dinner when paddling through a somewhat longer
pool than usual, we noticed on the shore some tracks, which
were evidently worth examining, so examine them we accord-
ingly did. They proved to be caribou and some of them
were comparatively fresh. The whole point of sand on
•which we found them was covered with track upon track like
mud in a barnyard. This was evidently one of the places
where the big fellows came down night after night to

drink, and probably we mighl

l.ave

been rewarded

.had we stayed until that evening, but as our progress had
not been of the rapidest, I thought it advisable to move
ahead. In a pool just below this, Nickolas made some
quick exclamation to the Indian behind, and both pointed
their poles in the direction of a deep run of the channel.
"What is it?" I asked, "Salmon!" was the reply; "a big
feller too; dar ! dar he go, see him ?" and as he spoke a
dark shadow shot like lightning past the bow of the canoe,
and went foaming, skuttling and splashing down through
the rapids below.

The fact that salmon were then out of season and the
property of Her Majesty, and not of private individuals, did
not prevent the Indian hurling his pole after the rapidly re-
treating fish, then seizing his paddle and forcing the canoe,
with short, sharp, hissing strokes in the direction where the
waves and splashes were last seen. Like the trout of the
day before, the salmon was forced to double back on account
of shoal water, and also like the same fish, he had a com-
paratively narrow escape from the recovered pole of the
.enthusiastic Nickolas. .But.altogether unlike his less fortunate

131

cousin, he eluded canoe number two with wonderful
dexterity, which caused the kid to j,^asp in undisf,nused
amazement, and the pilot of that invaluable craft to throw
both canoe pole and paddle in the attempt to stop the lithe
muscular giant that churned the water into foam and bumped
contemptuously against the stern of the bark canoe, as he
swam majestically back to the depths of his pool. Two or
three grilse darted here and there during the excitement, but
were unnoticed as far as drawing a shower of missile^ at
themselves was concerned. Nick smiled grimly, which
seemed to bode ill for future salmon, and remarked, "Well
miss um dis time, but spouse um kin catch him some noder
time. Dunno, wait till by me by. den we see. Go pretty
dam fas' but sometimes not fas' nuff for injun, or more likely
not fas' nuff for sa'mon." With this threat he resumed poling.
This pool, about four miles above the Gounomitz River
was the farthest up the Restigouche that 1 observed a
salmon; as far as I know there are no pools above this point
su.ted to the spawning habits of this fish. About a mile be-
low this we came into a salmon pool in which we counted
some fourteen or fifteen fish fully grown, and a very con-
siderable number of grilse.

Just below this pool on the North bank of the river we
found our next camping ground. That evening an exami-
natron of the canoes showed that, tough as they were
they could not be expected to stand the dragging over stones
which they had gotten during the last few days. So we de-
cided to stay a day in that camp and make shoes out of the
cedar that was there so plentiful.

That evening after supper was over, every trace of
wind had died out; there was not a single cloud in the sky
and the moon, almost full, sent the long black shadows of
the spruces atharwt the stream, and touched the top of every
tree with silver. What sort of a night do you think this
would be to try and call moose? was the first question I put
to Nickolas, after the dishes had been washed and put away
and the fire-wood gathered in for the night; he wandered
out, slid down the bank to the river and stood for

^!t^0!m^0m^m^,'^

132

some time looking- at wood and water and sky. After
a little while he returned and looked into the fire
as though undecided; finally he apparently made up his mind
and said, "Well, pretty g-ood nigfht, mebbe too much light,
or a good deal anyway, but don' min' dat much; no win' but
not very good country. Well, spose um can try, an', not
catch him dis time, catch some nudder time, mebbe "
Having delivered himself thus, he spoke i :> ', .vords in
Malicete to the younger Indian, and the two . ^.n started
on a search for suitable birch bark from which to make
moose horns. In a few minutes they returned, each with
several large sheets of new bark.

The horns used in calling moose are made of the bark ot
the White Birch, or Canoe Birch, as it Is sometimes called,
on account of its use in making bark canoes. Good pliable
pieces of the bark are obtained as free from knots as possible.
It is heated before the;fire, and after being carefully cut to suit
the taste of the artist who is constructing it, it is made into a
conical horn, the proportions of which differ somewhat ac-
cording to the ideas anr^ oice of the man who is making it.
The average moose horn that I have seen is, perhaps, tour-
teen inches long, has an opening of about one inch at the
smaller end, and about six inches at the mouth or larger end.
It is bound with a couple of twigs of withe wood, pieces of
rope yarn or a few small ash splints, and is otten made to
stand a great deal of use, a horn frequently becoming a
great favorite with its owner, who perhaps through its
-agency has lured many a fine specimen of the most magnifi-
•cent of the deer tribe to his death.

The operation of making the horns in the evening in
•question, was carried on with a good deal of care, the bark
being cut and rolled up, then tried with a low call, unrolled
slightly or perhaps rolled still tighter and tried again. Finally
when the practised ears of the Indians decided that it pro-
duced just theright sound, itwas withed tightly intothecorrect
shape, and, with a few final trimmings, was ready for its work.

It was not later than half-past seven when we were
ready to start; the two canoes, which were to be manned as

133

usual, were gotten ready, and, with a final look to the rifles,
we quietly took our places on the piles of browse which the
Indians had placed in the canoes for us to sit on. We made
no unnecessary noise as the Indians pushed off, using the
wooden instead of the steel-shod end of the canoe poles.
The only sounds as we started down stream was the slight
grating of the poles on the sand on the bottom, and the
click, click, of the magazines as the cartridges were pressed
into place. Then these latter sounds ceased, and as the
Indians became more careful, the former became less evident,
and all would be silent, until some curling ripple would show
where some rock lay just beneath the surface, and the water
would rush past as the Indian would lean tbrwarci and snub
the canoe into another channel. Sometimes a slight rustle
amid grass or ferns, a few feet away would strike the air in
the dead silence, and cause you to attach more importance to
it than it deserved. It was perhaps only the movement of a
mink or muskrat startled b> the procession that glided past.
Now, after passing through some little rapid, there would
be a long stretch ot dark, absolutely smooth water hugging
close in under a bank of spruce which would run up perhaps
two hundred feet on the right, while on the left would
stretch away a piece of flat low-land lighted up by moonlight,
while the river itself was thrown into the deep shadow. Now
and then a salmon would dart across our bow, and we could
follow the dark wave as it coursed away up stream, and hear
a half smothered exclamation as it passed the other canoe,
which would be immediately followed by Nickolas raising
his finger for absolute silence. Once one of the fish actually
got beneath the canoe, and caused the Indian to remark in
sepulchral tones, and in a voice hardly audible "Got urn
pretty big squeeze dat time." With a splash, however, the
fish was oft- again, leaving everything as silent as the tomb.
As we moved still further on, and more care was taken, faint
rustlings came from here, there and evervwhere, and it
seemed impossible to believe that big game was now moving
stealthily away as we glided on.

134

Ij 1

Here the river would wind in a southerly direction, and
the moon would light it up with its silvery glare, until it
seemed as if we must be the most conspicuous objects for
miles around; then it would swing again to the east, and
beneath the shadow of some friendly hill, we could again
look out on the scene before us from our position of compara-
tive obscurity. It was just such a place as this, perhaps two
miles or more below the camp, that the Indian decided to try
his first call, so he pushed the canoe gently towards the right
bank and grounded her bow on a half sunken Irg without a
sound that was audible even to me

On our bank rose a steep hill, spruce-clad and dark, for
perhaps 200 feet, while on the opposite side of the river the
moonlight threw weird shadows through the now almost
bare branches of the hard-wood that clothed the flat.
Laying down his paddle, he stood up with a horn, with-
out so much as sending a ripple across the still sur-
face of the water, and then through the intense stillness
rang out that weird indescribable challenge that broke the
silence as effectively as could a cannon shot, and echoed,
and re-echoed, roaring and bellowing uack trom the hills of
spruce. Then silence again that seemed by contrast a hun-
dred times more intense than before; five, ten, fifteen
minutes elapsed, and no sound, except the rush of the rapids
below, and then a second call; again no result. The silence
after the third call, for a few minutes, was as unbroken as
in former cases. Then, suddenly in the rapids below, three
or four heavy splashes as of a large animal wading up
through the shallow water — then a pause, and finally seven
or eight more splashes in rapid succession. Now, I am not
much given to be nervous, and when the splashes could be
heard out of the obscurity down stream, i sat with my rifle
cocked, imagining what the moose would look like when he
loomed up in the moonlight, and thinking just where my
rifle sight would find its resting place before pulling the trig-
ger. But when the splashes ceased, tor some unaccountable
reason which I have not yet solved, I trembled. It seemed
absolutelv ridiculous that a m.an coulJ sit there, v^ithout

135

mental excitement, and not keep shivers from running up and
oovvn his spine.

For twenty minutes we waited motionless, hardly daring
to breathe, and there was no repetition of the splashing;
fifteen mmutes longer and the Indian became uneasy. He
pushed the canoe gently from oflF the sunken log, and with
the paddle and without a sound, we again glided down
stream. On we went until at the bnnk of the little rapids
that we had heard in our former position, and still not a
sight of any living creature. With pole holding the canoe,
we waited (or perhaps ten minutes, motionless and alert
Then, from down the rapids, came a series of tremendous
splashes. On, on. on they came, and still, strain our eyes
as we would, we could see nothing. Then they ceased with
a splash of spray which glittered in the moonlight hardly
fifty yards away, and the Indian uttered a disappointed
grunt, accompanied by a single word which explained the
cause of all our waiting. Salmon? I inquired. " Vas "
was the disgusted reply. "Him no answer, so tou^ht mebbe
be Caribou Deer, spose um so, come down see, got left dat
time, mebbe catch him some nudder. You wait." The
last with a smile that recalled a somewhat similar remark
made after missing the salmon on the previous day. And
so ended our first night's moose call.

Poling the canoes back to camp, sometimes throuo-h
long pools and again through stiff rapids, would have
been a feat for a man not accustomed to canoes
but t.iese men took it as easily, apparently, as they
did going down stream. The moon was high by this
time, and nearly the whole river lay gleaming under its soft
white light. Occasionally an owl hooted, a sound which
we had not heard before, and, in one portion of the river not
far from our camp, where lay a long stretch nowhere over a
foot deep, we encountered a great numberjof salmon running
up to the pools above. The Indians persisted in going over-
board and apparently delighted in chasing them, as does a
terrier a flock ot chickens.

'*tt«i

13G

It was nearly eleven o'clock when we got back to camp.
The fire was low, so, as it was not a very cold night, we lit
the Primus stove and had a hot cup of Fry's cocoa.

As I lay in my sleeping bag, half dozing, it seemed that
from the ripple of the river outside the tent, would arise
great splashes, and from some dusky, ill-defined shadow, a
great moose would strike out into the clear moonlight, and
then mysteriously dissolve into thin air.

The next morning opened a day with a clear sunshine.
The Indians were up and at it bright and early, as usual.
Breakfast over, we retired to the swamp back of the camp»
and, in a little while, the strokes of the axes rang out in
rapid succession, and a few moments sufficed to bring crash-
ing down, a cedar suited to their purpose.

The so-called shoes used in protecting the bottoms of
canoes, when run through very shoal water, as in our case>
are ingeniously made affairs worked from the White Cedar.
Out of the cedar tor each canoe, is split nine nieces perhaps
half an inch in thicl ness, which are shaved ^o a width of
about five inches at one end, tapering gradually to perhaps
an inch and a halt at the other end.

Five of these are laid side by side and held in their posi-
tion, with the wide ends together, by ash splints .unning
through each. The remaining four are put together similar-
ly. The canoe is inverted and the four are first placed
on the bottom with the wide ends amidships, while
the other ends are gathered together at the stern
and tied by rope or splint, held on notches near the
ends. The remaining five are then placed in a similar posi-
tion, and the small ends gathered up at the bow, these bow
shoes being sutTiciently long to overlap the stern ones amid-
ships. The shoes are fastened in place by the ash splints,
which hold them together, being tied securely ^o the gunwale
or thawrts. Defined in this way, the amou..t of knocking
round which a canoe will stand, is almost incredible.

As the Indians were occupied all day, I spent the time
in cruising the section of the country near camp. Here the
has cut its way somewhat more deeply than above, IntO'

river

137

the uiulerlyinsr formmion, which seems to be chiefly broke.r
s.Iunan shales, with an occasional out crop of limestone, in
some cases more or less metamorphic. though nowhere did
1 see any that was or could be considered marblei/ed. The
t.mber for the most part, consists as usual of spruce, though
on the highlands, both north and south of the river, a very
cotvs.derable scattering of beech, birch and maple is to be
tound In lower situations ash is, at times, c|uite plentiful.
Ihere are in this region several comparatively long
•stretches of lowland along the river bank, throughout which
are to be found very considerable quantities of white cedar
I he land .s sulliciently wet to keep the wood sound, and
many of the trees a^tain a very great si.e. In several posi-
.ons throuirhout this lowland, I found as many as sixteen
large cedars to seven large spruce, and a large number of
halt grown trees. I have nowhere in New Brunswick seen
as finely developed white cedars as on the lowlands along
the upper Restigouche. I came upon several bear tracks
^lurmg the day's tramp, none of which were very fresh the
ammals having by that time forsaken the river banks where
the last of the berries had disappeared, and retired to the
highland where beech nuts were sulTiciently plentiful to
furnish them with a means of livelihood.

Down through one or two little valleys, a caribou path
was beaten, as though a herd of cattle passed over it everv
mornmg and evening, while among the others the sharper
moose track was occasionally to be seen. Once, as I came
out upon the river, a racoon hurried away before I could
pt a shot at him, and several times a muskrat would splash
into the water as I approached it, and, again a flock of Mt-
mice would run across my path, working away with their
cheery httle notes always in evidence, as they passed on
their errand of good into the deeper wilderness. Then a
raven or two, or perhaps an occasional crew, would wheel
away before I had fairly gotten a chance to see them. Then
that cousin of theirs, the omnipresent Canada jav, would
make some quiet remarks in jay language from a nearby pine
tree.

fWf*

^^4&»S^

138

rri

I tried to calculate the luiiTiher of grilse and salnu""'
which were in and passed throiig-h one of the largei pools,
during the time i spent there, and believe there were about
eighty-eight fish in all, the time beings not over two hours.
Some of the fish were large, but the majority of them
were grilse, weighing perhaps, between four and five
pounds.

By supper time the shoes were finished, and the evenings,
unlike the previous ones, was cloudy. As it was full moon,
this was regarded as an advantag^e than otherwise, as far as
the possibilities of moose calling were concerned. "Goin'
git moose to-night, sure," Tom remarked, as he finished
washing- up the supper dishes, and hung the mugs on con-
venient twigs of the nearby bush. I hope so, I replied,
Nick smiled. "Oh yas, cotch him sure dis time," and then
with a pause, "mebbe" as if he did not like to run the chance
of having his prestige ias a prophet entirely destroyed.

On account of the cloudiness, it was much darker than
on the previous evening and the faintest trace of a breeze
sent, now and then, a peculiar moan through the needle-
like leaves of the pines and spruces. The usual caution was
observed, but this time we went at least a mile and a half
down river until we came to a rippling, purling stream
almost as large as the Restigouche at that point which came
in from the north side of the Gounomitz River. Here, on the
left bank ot the Restigouche is a very considerable area of
lowland, several square miles in all, and covered with a
growth of ash, birch and maple, as is usual in such situ-
ations." "Good moose country" was the pleasing assurance
whispered by Nick, as soon as we had silently glided past
a few hundred yards of this lowland. Then the required
shielded position was found, and the two canoes grounded
as noiselessly as the night before, or floating quietly by a big
half-sunken birch, which formed an ideal situation from
which to see without being seen.

Owing to a slight breeze that occasionally shook the
tree tops and caused a few dried leaves yet clinging fj the
tips of the branches, to flutter in an cilarminsj manner, the

139

call did not seem to ring: with the same sonorous, silence-
breaking effect that it did on the previous evening.

Compared with the former effect, the call was almost a
disappomtment, and it seemed that, if the weird bell of the
previous evenin^^ had succeeded in raising' nothing, tonight,
when the note could not be heard half the distance, it must
necessarily be a failure. In the few minutes of silence which
followed the first call, the occasional faint rustle caused bv
the hardly noticeable bree/e served to brir.g a disappoi.Ued,
half deadened imagination back to full life and alert activity,
and by the time the second call rang out.everyaberrant ripple
of the nver, and every slight crackle of the dried fern frond
seemed to be the step of the looked-for giant.

The night with its uncertain and changii - cloudiness
was much more calculated to lead one to believe' in all sorts
of strange figures in motion on the opposite bank of the
river. The third, fourth and filth call, however, passed with-
out any sound except those before described, to which the
stramed senses were now becoming accustomed. The wait-
ers^ had relapsed almost into a stale of indifference, and the
Indian bent down to again lift the horn, when suddenly a
sound thaf there could be no mistaking, broke upon the still-
nes., and threw the others of less magnitude into utter
obscurity. Far away in the tangle across the stream arose
a crashing and snapping as though a herd of elephants were
plowing through the undergrowth of young birches. For
perhaps a quarter of a minute there was no other sound and
the crackling grew louder with, once or twice, a splash, as if
the animal were crossing some of the smaller streams that
flowed through the lowland. Then, for a moment or two
there was silence, followed immediately by the peculiar snuff-
mg, whining grunt of inquiry, and then the thunder-roaring
magnificent challenge of the bull moose. In another instant
the crashing re-commenced, this time veering away to the
left up river. The Indian seized the horn and uttered a low
penetrating, half-grunt, half-moan that caused the crackling
to cease for a moment. It was but for a moment, however,
and then it began again; th

IS time, however, trend

mg in our

11^

140

direction. ' On it came until it seemed that the animal must
be visible a little above us on the opposite side o( the
river. But strain our eyes as we might, we could see noth-
ing-. Then came a silence, and what a silence it was;
Not daring to move n muscle, he breathed something as if it
must be heard on the other side of the stream. Cramped,
alert, silent, we waited. Perhaps five minutes passed; it
seemed an hour. Now some cloud, thinner than the rest,
would cause a light haze to sweep over the point on which
our eyes were fixed, and again, everything would become
obscure

Nickolas, with a motion so slow as to be hardly suscept-
ahle, reached down to the surface of the water and raising a
little in his hand, poured it splashing over the birch bark
horn. Instantly there was a movement across the stream.
All doubt seemed to have vanished from the waitinir animal,
and, with a rustling of grass, and a clicking and grating of
stones, the monarch of all the Deer tribe trotted out into the
middle of the stream, hardly forty yards from us. Then for
an instant he stopped, and, with head stretched forward,
walked slowly and nonchalam'.y down the middle ot the
stream. In the uncertain light, the animal, seemSd at least
ten feet in height, and the great antlers seemed as if they
might eclipse all previous records for breadth of span.
Thirty-five, thirty yards, twenty-five yards and finally twenty.
The Indian's paddle touched me between the shoulders, and
I swung the rifie with a death dealing dum-dum bullet in the
chamber, slowly to the right. My chance had come, and
with the ivory sight of the rifle gleaming white against the
forepart of the giant's shaggy body, I pulled the trigger.
The sharp crack was instantly followed by a splash and a
roar that seemed to shake the very hills, and the moose
charged in our direction. Between our canoe and the on-
coming animal was the birch stub which had formed so con-
venient a hiding place, and through its gnarled roots I fired
another shot. Simultaneously with it came the deeper
bang of a 44 calibre Winchester from the other canoe,
and the following instant the moose lurched forward, his

■■5-ii-^ ;.~ j-.sasz'jfcafnT?;\

141

horns striking the birch stub, hardly eij^ht feet from us, with
a force apparently sufficient to kill half a dozen men. Then
his tore feet came up on it, and his antlers loomed above us
as If a moment would see the canoe crash beneath his
weif,rht. and then, in a space of time which could hardly be
realized, he had sunk back and fallen on his side and was
lashuis: the water with his ineffectual strugj,Hes.

No one seems to know how and when we left the canoe'*
but the fact remains that two frantic Indians and two
probably no less excited white men found themselves dancing
round m a foot or two o^ water, while in the centre of the
g-roup lay a bull moose stone dead.

After the first examination was over, which resulted in
finding that the antlers had been somewhat magnified by the
moonlight, but were still not to be despised, and that the
moose himself was in reality a giant, it was seen that the
hrst thing necessary was to get him ashore. It is difficult
to realize how hard it is for four man to haul a thousand
pound moose, even if he is lying in almost two feet of water
Fmally, with a great deal of pulling, we managed to get him
mto deeper water and drag him along to a place where the
channel ran close under the bank. Here he was partly
dragged ashore, until the ropes, which were carried for jus't
such a contingent, could be gotten into service. These were
then thrown over a stout branch of a nearby spruce, and
with a great deal of belaying and taking in the slack, the
moose was finally hoisted well out of reach of any passing
fox.

"Mebbe goin' to rain tomorrow," was the first remark
Tom made on returning to the canoe, after his exertions.
Perhaps we better cut him up tonight, I suggested. "Well,
-spose um can do dat" replied Nick, "mebbe if we do, better
get um to work now." So the lantern was gotten from the
canoes and lighted, and the operation of skinning begun. It
was uver an hour before the axes and knives had finished
their work, and the canoes were loaded ready to get back
to -amp again; it was between two and three o'clock before
the triumphal procession, consisting of two canoes, of which

142

[l<

the bow of the foremost was decorated by a moose head,
reached the tent ag^ain.

The fire was nothing but a pile of white ashes, and rain
began to fall gently. Everyone was wet and everyone was
satisfied, and when on the road to slumber, there were no
visions of a point of deep obscurity and a vanishing moose,
to cause trouble.

The next day, October i8, was wet, so we decided not
to attempt to continue our journey as we had no tarpaulins
with which to cover our bedding or provisions. Part of the
day I spent in the camp writing up notes on the surrounding
country, and later decided to see what more I could see in
the surrounding woods. Putting on my wet weather rig, I
started North from the river bearing away some distance
into the highlands on that side of the valley. In this region
the timber consisted of mixed evergreen with a plentiful
sprinkling of deciduQus trees. Among the spruce on the
high ridges here, I saw some of the finest timber that was
noted during the trip; a considerable proportion of trees
girding seven feet or th.reabouts.

Occasionally I came acioss an enormous solitaryspecimen
of the white pine, once perhaps the most valuable timber
tree in the Province, but now very thoroughly culled. Some
of these trees would girt ten feet and upwards at the base,
they were not in suflicient quantities, however, to warrant
operations on their account alone. Through this region
also, I found several outcrops of the more or less meta-
morphosed limestone. Before, in one or two valleys, I came
across a considerable number of deer tracks, as if the place
had been a near rendezvous of these timid and beautiful
denizens of the northern wilderness. The deer referred to is
the American or Virginian deer, which is now found in great
quantities throughout the whole Province, even in the most
civilized districts, in some places beii '^ so common as to
become a nuisance.

The meat of the Virginian deer is delicious in flavor and
fine in grain, and is a great favorite of lovers of good veni-
son; the result is, that as soon as the season opens, the

.>■

Its

markets are plentifully stocked with the most beautiful of the
deer tribe found in the Province of New Brunswick I
flushed several coveys of ruflFed gfrouse, but having no shot-
gun and not following birds up, I got none during the
walk.

Nowhere in the Province, or for that matter, anywhere
have 1 seen terns as plentiful as in this portion of the upper
Restigouche region. The majority of them were now, here
as along the portage road, frost-bitten and broken, but
sufficient evidence of their enormous number was still on
every hand. I have never traversed this region in Summer
but the contrast must be very marked between that season
'ind the late Autumn. Now, where hardly a bird's note is
heard, then every thicket would be alive with thrushes,
warblers, fly-catchers and wrens, making the wilderness
3eem far less wilderness than could be realized later in the
year.

When I returned to camp one would judge from the
sounds that issued from the tent that a possible horde of
street singers had been captured and pressed into service.
Everyone was in good humor, not that they had not been
during the previous portion of the trip, but they now seemed
in exceptionally good humor. Probably it was the change
of diet from salt meats to fresh venison.

By evening the sky had cleared again, and thus
ended the only day of rain which was experienced during the
journey. Before nine o'clock the evening had become cold,
and encouraged by the success of the night before, we decid-
ed to go up stream, this time to where we had seen caribou
tracks, and wait there for what might turn up. The same
silence was preserved, and the precautions taken were, if
possible, greater than before. But a four hours wait gave
no result except the creation of four wonderful appetites,
which forced the Primus to hiss away for half an hour in an
endeavor to satisfy.

As we had been forced to lose two whole days at this
point, dawn the next morning saw us eating breakfast in
preparation for a long day's run down river; in a little while

afterwards, we were underway, and the pile of browse, with
the ashes of the camp fire, were the only things left to
Indicate that human beings had been there.

We passed the mouth of the Gounomitz River, stopping
only long enough to take a photograph of the lovely little
stream as it flowed out through the head waters over its bed
of pebbles to where the struggle of but a short time before
had taken place, and of which now not a sigh remains, and
everything looked far less romantic under the influence of
ithe morning light.

About five miles below the Gounomitz, after we had
•crossed the boundary into Restigouche County, we came
upon a road leading from the river into one of the lumber
camps, near it on the river bank were large quantities of
■stores and provisions. These provisions are brought up the
river from Campbellton, 130 odd miles from its source,
by long scows which, are towed by three horses. These
scows are eighty feet long and eight feet wide, drawing as
much as a foot of water when loaded; each scow carrying
about seven tons of fodder and provisions. The same type
of scow, with a house built upon it, is used in conveying
parties of sportsmen up to the regions where moose and
caribou are plentiful. As the houses are provided with stoves
and comfortable beds, this is indeed a luxurious method of
travelling. The charge usually made for conveying parties
up river in a scow ot this sort is $10 per day; this covering
the cost of scow, three horses and two or three men. One
of these scows was lying beside a less pretentious cousin
■used by the lumbermen. As the sugar showed some signs
of disappearing before the time apportioned it, Tom made
reconnaissance in force — with an axe in one hand — in the
direction of the lumbermen's molasses barrel, and succeeded,
after some caretul manipulating with a hardwood wedge and
a spike, in getting one of the sauce-pans full of that remark-
able Porto Rico product, connected with thoughts of our
childhood and huge slices of bread.

It is an understood thing in the life of Canadan woods-
«nen, that, if anvone is runninir short of provisions, he is to

145

help himselt from the first cache that turns up, so. with
^guiltless conscience we proceeded.
' p J""''^""' time I had been expecting to meet with Mr.
Fantm Tynan whose whole title is Dominion Government
F,sh\^.arden of the Restigouche River from the mouth of the
Quatawamkedgewick to the head-waters. This individual is
tamous among sportsmen and poachers alike as bein^r the
most fearless man in the discharge ot his duties in this sec-
tion of the country.

.h ^^'Y''^"''^'" ^''°'" ''"•■ '"°'"^-^^^ ^^P°t as we rounded
the bend and came out on a straight stretch of the river we
^aw about one hundred and filty yards down stream, a man
pohng a dug-out in our direction, and decided that this must
be the gentleman in question; on nearer approach this proved
to be the case The dug-out-a long proa shaped canoe
hollowed out of a single log-had evidently seen many vicis!
s.tudes, and, as my assistant said, was somewhat fraved at
he edges. Amidships were his camping and bedding ma-
terials, a good-sized waterproof box to hold provisions, and
the omnipresent frying-pan; while in the bow sat an enorm-
ous and not too friendly looking dog, who, as the Irishman
himselt IS very deaf, supplied the ears of the combinatr
The g^uardian stood erect in the stern of his peculiar craft and
poled along to meet us, regarding us suspiciously. Aft e,
discovering from our appearance that we were probablv not
poachers, but must necessarily belong to the other clas^ (he
only knew two) and be sportsmen, his first salutation was,
Good day. Did you see any blankety-blank Madawaska
Frenchmen up river?" On being informed that, with the
exception of lumber crews, we were the only men between
him and the head-waters, and would not long come under
that classification, he seemed satisfied.

I presented my letters of introduction, which the Fishery
Commissioner, Mr. D. G. Smith, had very kindlv given mT

taking a furtive glance into the canoes to see if there were
a..y salmon in sight He then began recounting some of hi

late exDerienct^s w th n.nrhf^rc f . - .1 .• •

--_ ...L.i poacners trum the adjoii

ining coun

; ' |gte<!<t»'*«W »,W . MiM» I MI« i M BM»

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before mentioned, and interesting enough they were too.
Just to give one which he himself had not told me, it may
have been his modesty that prevented him, or he may have
forgotten it, but which was recounted by some other m?n
who had heard it from one of the principal actors in the
scene. It appears that a party ot six guileless Acadians
from Madawaska County had portaged through from the
head-waters of the Grand River to the Restigouche, with,
two dug-outs and a considerable amount of apparatus (nets,
etc.) with the intention of capturing the wily salmon out of
sea^on. Now it may have been that a cork net float escaped
and went bobbing serenely down stream and came under the
notice ot the river guardian, or it may be the dog's sense of
smell had so developed as to extend through thirty miles of
wilderness under favorable conditions of the wind, or again,
it may be that the peculiar condition of Mr. Tynan's hearing
were such that, though you had to shout at him from a
distance of a yard or so, that he could hear sounds which
came from the remotest distance, in the way that far-sighted
people can see objects some distance away, yet will not be
able to distinguish those near at hand. But whatever the
reason may have been, and no one knows except the guard-
ian himself, Mr. Tynan turned up at the camp of the six
Frenjhmin, when the proprietors were not in sight; the dog
wandered around and devoured anything that suited his taste,
and the warden himself occupied his time in chopping hole*
in the larger of the two hostile dug-outs.

Then the owners returned, and the odds were six to one.
The river guardian, true to his duty, and nowise daunted,
backed two of the men out into the middle of the stream at
the point of a revolver, and made them kneel down in the
icy water and swear that, if he let them go that they would
never stop except to eat and sleep, until they reached their
homes in Madawaska again, and that if he ever caught them
on the Restigouche River again, he would— well it is need-
less to say anything further, for the other four were so ter-
rorized that all immediately came to terms. Two men poled
the remaining canoe up the Restigouche and the Wagan

147

river, and the other four tramped forty odd miles throufjh the
wilderness back to a road Again, and it is recorded that they
have found farming a more remunerative pursuit than catch-
ing Her Majesty's salmon.

After talking some little time with the warden, who had
been occasionally eyeing the moose-head furtively, he asked
to see our licenses which were forthwith produced, and I
hnally left him with a promise to send along a print of a
picture that I took of him in his dug-out, much to his appar-
ent edification. He informed us that the Qauatawmkedge-
w.ck opened in about eight miles further down stream, and
we deeded that we could make some distance beyond that
river for reaching our camp of that night. We had hardly
left Mr. Tynan a mile behind before, in one of the small
rapids, a much enthusiastic grilse in his rush up stream
came too close to to the canoe for the nerve of the
Indian; the result was t^iat, in spite of the av^-e-inspir-
.ng effect that Mr. Tynan should have had, Nick's canoe pole
made a vicious jab at the rapidly runniiig fish, and, as luck
would have it, the pole struck home, and in an instant I was
as IS usually the case under such conditions, left to guide
the canoe to some place where she would ground, and to
sit passively and watch the struggle. It was not of long
duration; the half stunned grilse made a few desperate
rushes, each time to be met by the active Indian, until
hnally the fish turned, throwing up a splash as he en-
deavored to avoid his pursuer. Nickolas seized the
advantage, and the pole shot into the centre of the troubled
water emerging with the grilse securely pinned on it through
the gills. " Dar " w^as the remark, " I tol dose sa'mon dav
was purty quick, but spose um some time not quick nuff fur
injun; mebbe good time havin' dinner now." Everybody
was agreed to this, and to broiled venison was added
poached salmon.

Before the grilse went into the frying-pan, I got a pic-
ture of both the victor and his victim. Then, when the meal
was finished, we started again in the direction of the Quata-
'wamkedgewick. On approaching this river, the land

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becomes very considerably hi^^her, and more resembles the
^•P.cal lower Resti,.ouche. which is a very different, and, in
many respects, a very much more beautiful stream, than near
ine head-waters.

The Quat;,vv,,mkecl)fewick Itself, or the Kedi;evvick, „, it
.r,^ "f """t"""'' - "-' —I '-.-est of the Irib.,.
i2 f .K ''''"^^"'^<'' »'"' "'"vs i„ fr„„, the northwest

thi VV T' "'"'"' "'^'^ "'"" ''''""■ "^^ '""'"h of

.1 rouR-h almost the whole of the extreme western portion
o Rest gouehe County. By sonte it is deemed so important
-^to be cons.dered the man, Restiponche, while the portion
flowtng from the sonthwest. into which the Gounamit' flows
and down wh.ch we came, should, according to their idea
be constdered a branch. This 1 do not think is justifiable
The Kedgew.ck flows into the Restigouche in a broad, open

rs"h:;:'st:.:r"' '^ ^""-^ -'-'■ -" » ^^-'^ -- ^o--

theri is'T" " "t Kedgewick enters the Restigouche river
but h , r":"":"*" ■'•""^" °'' ■■"P'"' "<" "angerous,

fbot of thf h" " ""'^^ "°"» '"y ^"P'^'y- At th
too of ,h,s rap.d ,s s,tua.ed one of the finest salmon pools

on he nver, and here wc came upon the firs, of the lodges

o the Res.,go„che Salmon Ck.b, the headquarters of which

are s.tuated at the mouth of the .Matapedia river, only

h.rtee„m,les above Campbellton. The salmon pool below

the kedgewtck, besides being a fine fishing pool, is v.rv

beaut.lul, on one side the rocks descending sheer into the

woodZVr"""'""^ '"*"'■ ■■■"" ""'"""'- "« "-'•-

wood Ian I slopn,g upward gradually, forms quite a hill

A mtle or t>vo below this pool, whose silence and depth
of the bottom-often being far out of sight-appear in

trange contrast to the rest of the river, we met the first
the lumber camp supply scows which we had vet come
across ,n mot.on. Two or three men stood on the bow with

ong poes ready to snub the scow to one side or the other
so tha the rocks m.ght be avoided and the channel followed
as well as possible. The hoi

>rses.

one hundred and fifty feet

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^'I'o.ul ,unv „..|l,oJ dankin^r ,|„„^, „„ „_, ,

Uih h ■ 'u' "' ""■ "''"^' "''"''' ■■" "- "■= could

h . h,^- ..M,„her.s„„K. pivot suapc, ,.„ul „lo„.. the
.ore IK. scow „.a,„r«l ,, cro«l ol l„„,hcr„K-n, «oi„. i„ o

: ' ! "■,"-'- ^'™" ^" >l« n.a.. riclin,- ,„'. horse , ,

.. fe>v ,vord.s o. cou„sel and „isdo„, would he ollered o he
mou on ,he scow, which were .-euerally returned «^,h „„ ^
moe V,. .rations that onl, served to'il.icit t,u-,her a
usual J accon,pan,ed wuh a shower oi stones, which were
oaleulatec to do no h.rther harn, than thoroughly s™l< ,he
man at whom they were hurled.

Thus we wotdd proceed until some little rapid was
reached and the horses would he fastened close up to Z
ow and , e s,ru,,,.,e would be,-in. The three horses vh h
• re always h.tched ahreast, would feel their wav out into the
deeper channel, ,.uided by the man who rode the central o
The scow would swin,, out hehind and then would cot^e t";
tug-.f-war. Up stream throut-h the swift current we would
Ifo, ,u,td one horse would be perhaps carried olV his fee,, bu

seconds w o dd stdhce to t;et into shallower water. Then the
ruptd would be lengthened out once ntore, and ,he d.u "of
the man on horse-back would be less arduous. This part
eular scow had made not less than twenty-tluoe miles, Tl r
the Circumstances, that clay.

We g-ot a cheery greeting as we passed, with a con-
Mderab e number of questions regarding the hostih'ty .( the
r.bes that n^habited the interior, and. after answering thesi
^ he best of our ability, we passed on to find our cr.m ing
place. This was on the left bank of the river among some
>oung swamp w.ilows. a different situation than we had yet

The next morning. October 21, it was decided that we
:^t^Tl^^V^°- - -^^^^ - ^-^her use for them!

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the river having be

anger of injuring the canoes. Befo

me sufficiently deep to obviate

anv

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re they were tal<en off

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I took a picture of them to ,:;ive an idea of their construction.
Ihe day was as clear as any previous, and we hoped to
make the mouth of the Patapedia, another of the larj,^er
tributaries ot the Restigouche, h'ke the Quatawamkedfrewick
runn.n^^ into the river Irom the north side. The Patapedia
forms a portion of th. boundary line between New Hruns-
Wick and guebec; if takes its rise in several lakes in the
last named province

The land hetw -en the Kedg-ewlck and Patapedia is very
niuch hi^'her than we had previously encountered. A lari^e
portion ot one s.ctiop of it had been burned and is now
becoming- covered with a second i,^rowth of young hard-wood.
There was but one incident of unusual interest duiin.-
the day, and this was a few miles above the Patapedia river"
lust above Stilvvater Brook. We were passing through one
ot the smallc, rapids or "rough-waters" when, on the right
bank of the river which arose stcepiv lor three hundred feet
or more, and was almost bare. I hearu a stone roll down,
and looked around to see the cause. High up on the hiU-
«'de, just bmeath a place where the bank was almost vertical,
was a deer, which had evidently been making its wav up
^rom the river bank below. It was a doc. It watched us
tor a second half curiously, then turned and tried to scamper
up the almost perpendicular face of the bank above it It
Avas a good two hundred yards away, and the canoe was
rocking and bouncing on the troubled water. I knelt in the
bottom tnd fired; no effect except to detach a piece of rock
SIX or e,ght feet from the deer, and send it rolling down until
.t clatteredonto the beach below. Again I fired; then came two
•shots in qu..:k succession from the other canoe, the Indians
in both cises trying vainly to keep the little crafts steady
•enough to enable one to get a satisfactory shot. The deer
bounded and struggled this way and that, and shot after
shot from the rifle rang out as though a considerable
skirmish were in progres. But the deer was gaining ground
now walking this way and now that, but always getting
nearer the top. After another shot detached a stone of con-
siderable size, which, though it hardly touched the deer on

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151

Its way down caused him to loose his footing and roll for
perhaps ten feet, I thju-ht I had killed him, but su ch was
evidently not the case. In an instant he was up and,in a few
seconds had re^-ained his lost fj-round.

The bullets, under the influence of the smokeless powder
threw up red clouds of dust sometimes but a hand breadth
from the deer, but always just passin- him, and finally,
with one or two parting: shots, we had the mortification of
seeing: him, with one mig:hty effort, spring to the top of the
bank, and, with a bound, disappear from view. The Indian
laughed, "Never hit him once," was the remark. Well, I
bet you would not have hit him either, I answered. "Me
fire three time, but hit tird time sure." Perhaps, I said;
' but I have my doubts, and for that matter, I still have them'
I never counted the number of shots I fired at that deer, and
I am not going to either. But then there is the usual "if"
and it is this: If either of us had thought of getting out in
the rapids, we could have got steady footing and possibly
have gotten the deer.

We camped that night on an open space, around which
the river flowed with its shores almost as evenly cut as
a canal. We had shot several grouse on the way down,
and a few more were got within a few yards ot the camp. The
deer formed the subject of conversation for some time after
the tea dishes were washed, and the Indians were having
their smoke when we were interrupted by the sounds of an
approaching scow with her crew. They had aimed for the
same camping ground that we did, but likely we had gotten
there before them. They camped alongside us, however, in
almost as good a situation, and once again we heard
the champ, champ, champ, of the horses to lull us to slumber.
The party contained among others, two of the most
expert hunters in northern New Brunswick, and many a tale
of spritely deer, of fleet and wary caribou, and of giant moose
went the rounds, before the fire had burned itself low and we
turned in for the night.

Long before dawn the next morning, October 21, the
scow's crew was ready to get off ; as soon as the first streak

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152

•of daylij,'ht had glinted over the tops of the dark trees, and
by the time that our breakfast was ready and our
horses were hitched, the h\g scow swung off, and they
were at it ag-ain for another twelve hours. By that night they
would make some point above the Quatawamkegewick,
perhaps even to their destination, which was a few miles
above that river.

Just before we left, another smaller scow came up the
river from the r.iouth of the Patapedia. She was towed by
a single horse, and her crew consisted of two men. They
were taking a sledge in over a portage road to one of the
numerous " dead waters," to bring out a moose which had
been shot a few nights before, and, incidentally to get one
or two more if possible, while they were there.

The first point of interest in our journey of that day,
was the mouth of the Pat .pedia river, which was situated
about three miles below the camp. This river, as before
mentioned, forms part of the boundary line between Quebec
and New Brunswick, so that henceforth, on our trip down
the Restigouche, the right bank would be New Brunswick
and the left Quebec.

Three or four miles below the Patapedia, is situated
probably the finest ox-bow on the Restigouche river. Here
the river sweeps round in a magnificent curve, while across
the bow, a short-cut haj been made through which a large
portion of the spring freshet flows. On the upper st.-etch of
this bow, is situated another of those flne salmon pools, with
which the river abounds, and here is another of the cosy
lodges for the convenience of salmon fishermen.

A mile or two below the ox-bow, we came to Cross Point,
one of the scenic attractions of this portion of the river.
Here about eight miles below the mouth of the Patapedia,
the river makes a sharp bend on itself, so sharp, in fact, that
two points, a mile or more apart in the course of the river,
are separated by only about one hundred yards. At this
point there is a high rocky ridge, running up to a sharp-knife
edge between three a

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four hundred feet above th

e river.

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Farther down stream, the bank can be readily cHmbed, and
a position on this dividing- rid^-e attained.

The view from here is perfectly magnificent. As you
face southeast, the river lies at your feet on both sides of the
ridge and circles round behind you. You can look far to the
south and see it as it flows down from the wilderness; then it
is hardly necessary to turn your head to look down a long
stretch to the east, as the stream flows on its course toward'^
civilization.

On the very top of the ridge, where it can be seen for
several miles either up or down stream, someone has planted
a rough wooden cross, which serves to mark the mecca ot
the Pilgrim sight-seer. We climbed the ridge getting photo-
graphs of its beauty, and breathing in the air that comes
fresh and clear over thousands of square miles of New Bruns-
wick forest.

When we got to the canoes again, the afternoon was
well along. As we rounded the extreme point, we met with
another scow on its way up river. This one was loaded
entirely with hay, part of the very considerable amount that
has to be taken up to each lumber camp for the consumption
of the horses during the winter.

Near the foot of the stretch below Cross Point, lies
another of the finer salmon pools. Hills on both sides run
up to four or five hundred feet, and are clothed almost
entirely with hard wood, though here and there, the dark
green path of spruce shows up.

Never have I seen water that showed a more limpid
green, and the pool encircled by hills is almost always calm.
In the early Autumn, the hillsides on both banks of the river
form a perfect blaze of gorgeous colouring, on account of the
great number of maples.

The shadows had fallen deep over the beautiful river by
the time we had reached the pool, and a short distance below
It, as the river makes a sharp turn to the northwest, we
again pitched our tent, and the next morning, clear as th-
ones preceding It, saw us again en route down river.

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The scene throiijjhoiiL this part of the country is indeed
very beautiful. There is not a feature to mar thi^ beauty; no
burnt huid, and the bank« are Hned with great quantities of
large birches, beeches and maples, the ri\ or is changed from
a ripphny brook to a river indeed. Though not a very large
nver, even yet here and there, a slight rapid is encountered,
and often a long absolutely uninterrupted curving stretch of
calm water; while everywhere lies the hills becoming higher
and higher as we advance down stream, and also more
picturesque and beautiful.

Shortly after getting into camp, when Moulton had
gone down to the shore to get the last piece of dunnage, we
heard the bushes crackle from an unexpected quarter, and
the Indian came quietly into -amp remarking that "Dar was
some caribou comin' down little brook troo de hill over
nudder side de river, an' better taK de rifle out." This
advice, ot course, was immediately followed, and the entire
party stole quiety down to the edge and waited. At
first we could hear no sound, then occasionally a rustle some
httle distance up on the hill on he opposite side of the
stream, denoted that something was moving. It was a con-
siderable distance, perhaps two hundred and fifty yards, but
as the air was perfectly quiet, the slightest sound was thrown
from hill to hill with perfect distinctnoss, and now and then
a sharper crack would be heard, and then silence again.

After a rather longer period of silence tha.i usual, the

whole thing did not last more than two or three minutes— a

movement was seen in the low bushes near where the mouth

ot^ the httle gurgling brooklet ran into the river, and then

with perfect fearlessness and apparent unconcern, three

caribou stalked down to the river and started to wade across.

It was half dusk, but we could see the big antlers of the

male as he swung his graceful head, now high in the air,

and now down till his nose touched the water. They waded .

along in a matter-of-fact way, until near the middle of the

stream, the point where they would land was at least eighty

yards beloiv us; sa we decided that this was the best chance

we could have, especially as the light was better over the

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tt'bi , ^ '■"'■^^^'^y ""^ -^'hted as best I could, and fired at

and the others turned and bounded down stream, then back
the other shore followed by two or three shots in rapid
M.cces.s.on from my companion's rine. Then the big caribou
s rug. ed and rose; turned his head this way and that as it
u.. leaded where to run. 1 took hasty aim and fired again.
Th s t , evdently missed him. as he turned and ran to-
^^ard the other bank. When firing the third, the light was
so uncertam, that F must have missed again.

By the time the giant had reached the shore, he took
t vo or three bounds in the direction of the woods and then
s opped, stood stock-still for a second, and sunk dou n on
hK haunches. Another second saw four men in two canoes
Pol.ng and paddling over the deeper portion of the rive-
or the water here was not over four or five feet-and ther,
eap.ng out and splashing their way to where the caribou
lav , now perfectly dead. The animal was not large, but the
head was a splendid one; the antlers having thirty-five points

^ By our united eff-orts, we managed to half-drag, half-
carry hm uno the river, and with the aid of the two' canoes
and poles, u^ p,,oted him safely across, and lugged him up
o the mouth ot the little path that ran down fro^. our tent
to the river.

We had been hungry before, but this experience added
a /est to our appetites that enabled us to dispose of more
pounds of the unfortunate moose, that we had gotten at .
potn that now seemed far away in the wilderness, than v
could poss.bly have done , nder ordinary circumstances.

It was well that the water in the river was considerably
deeper as the canoes were becoming so heavily laden, that
t would have been impossible to have gotten through places,
l.ke those to be found in the upper stretches of the river

The n.ght was clear, and colder than any we had yet had
and as soon as the moon, now some days past the l\.ll was
up over the hills on the opposite bank 'of t'he river, i'thi
.-^ - -u.u .nar ot the camp lantern, we skinned

and

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short .„„e. anJ eve,yll,i„K was ready for the inght. ^

,..nu "",''''■'""' " "■■" '■">■ f'-^sty; the moon had riven
u ah>ne , e hill, and everything- „a, co> .eU aith its li.h

hat Ions clear stretoh of the river, trom Mu: M.rface of w!,ich
«.s reflected the hil, „ as they towered aloft r„ both >id "
both up and cknvn Stream.

When I went l-.ok to camp, a big fire had nmde . inj,s
^os3 and com ortable. lUe Indians were sitting, bes.de it
e J«^.>d .n .k.n„.n,. a few mink and muskrat. thich they
had shot on the way down during the da.. The shins wore
then turned wrong side out and stretched on board- to dry
and we turned in for another night's rest '

The next day, C\ ober ,2, from sunrise to sunset whs
almost absolutely cloudles. |u • cool enonc^h f
it-,,.,.. •, , . J ^^'^^ enough for con 'ort,

n n^s an .deal day ot the .te Autumn; a dav wh , the ai
.nade .tself elt as though it were anothe. medium . usuaL

of Ferguson s Brook, and just here were situated Ferguson's
Rap.ds, one of the heaviest rapids "on the river, and again a
n. leor two below this brook, about half-way between iri'nd
Red Pme Brook, .e came to . ne o( the most beautiful hill
and nver scenes t . be .ound on the whole course of the
Restagouche. Here the ri .er winds in and out h. tween great
spruce and birch-covered hills, that plunge rapidlv do n and
are out lined against each other in beautiful contrast

T. day was to bring us int.. the beginning of th- >i
tempt at continuous civilisation found so-far, in our cuurse
downriver, for m the middleof.be afternoon, after passing
through Heroes Rap- , we came out at Chain ol Rocks.a vil
age consisting of tu ho.se. with the nearest giocery store
s.tuated twenty-two miles distant at Matapedia. The entire
family from one of those houses turned out to gn us and
m numbers they were, though it seemed at first impossible
stronger than some of thei- neighbor, in Madawaska

We were here presented with a fat goslin. -for a con-
-s.derat,on-on the condition that we captured him ourselves.

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• After the entire family had chased the flock of ^^eese for some
ten minutes, I manaK^ed after gettin^^ about ten feet from the
Jfoslmgm question, to put a bullet throu^'h his head, much
to the edification ot the spectators,vvho informed me that I was
a ^n-eat shot, and that I should have been there ten about
minutes before, as tuo caribou had just been doivn to the
nver to dnnK at a point about one hundred yards from the
house.

I may remark that the portion of the Province south of
the Resf^^ouche river, in this rej^ion. has probablv more
canbou to the square mile than any other part of the cmuitrv.
In the h.^Wier lands in this vicinity. I have seen caribou paths
beaten as thorou.^hly as if herds of cattle were driven over
■them every day.

Then we came to what was to be our restin- place that
niK^ht, a few miles below Chain-of-Rocks.

" 'Twa^ OIK- ol ti;o.so glorious Auiiitiin i-ves,

.As till' hi'HutifuJ sun sank low,
It linlotl tlu- s rounding wi'sli'rn sU\-

With a niolton, yolilon t^-low;
As 'tweiv }4ivini4- a .ylimpse ^^f Mi>a\cMi

To tis mortals lu-re Inflow."

It was one of the finest sunsets that I have ever seen
and the Maritime Provinces of Canada are famous for
beautiful sunsets. The ^^oose which we had gotten durin^^
he day, spluttered away in the baker for the j,.reaier part of
he evenmg-; and early in the mornino-, when the first of the
nd.ans got up to waken the fire, the goose was replaced in
h.s former position, and, by breakfast time, was readv to be
eaten. The fact had not been misrepresented, as far" as the '
bn-d s tenderness was concerned, and, though not exactly a
brer.kfast dish, m the civilized acceptance of that term, the
goose was most decidedly a success.

The pink glow of the sunlight had hardlv merged into the

h^'ht of another day, before we were again readv to move.'

From th.s pomt down, houses were not infrequent, one turn-

'ing up on an average of every few miles, and here and there

". if!

Looking: up Restisfoiiche River from High Bank
over Ox-Bow. above Cross Point.

158

a fishing lodge, wherevei
to be found.

a sufficiently well situated pool

was

In the course of the morning:, we rounded a bend in the
nver, and straight ahead of us, eight or nine miles down,
stream, came in sight of Squaw Cap Mountain, the third
highest m New Brunswick, twenty-two hundred feet above
the sea level. It loomed up like a lonely volcanic cone rmong
the lower hills around it.

In a little while we reached the mouth of the Upsalcjuitch
nver the most important tributa.y of the Restigouche,
wh.ch flows m from the south side, about twenty-one miles
above Campbellton. Here are more salmon lodges and
very prettily .tuated too. The Squaw Cap mountain is
situated about four miles southeast, of the mouth cf the
tpsalquitch, and a short distance north of it is Slate moun-
tain, some two thousand feet in height.

From the top of the Squaw Cap, and from a point on
the westerly side, one can look over more than eight thou-
sand square miles of New Brunswick, and see, on a distant
horizon. Mars Hill and Mount Katahdin in State of Maine-
the latter with its height of five thousand' five hundred feet'
being over two-hundred miles distant. \Away dead south
lies Bald Mountain at the headwaters of the Nepisiquit and
Tobique rivers, with its companion, Twin Mountain, a little
to the eastward; while beside them looms up Teneriffe so-
named on account of its resemblance to the famous volcanic
cone, Even in the Province itself, there are but compara-
tively tew eyes that have ever rested on these'thtee sisters of
the wilderness.

To the south of Squaw Cap Mountain and running ap-
parently along its base, the silver thread o{ the Upsalquitch
winds in and out, and drains the whole central portion of the
County of Restig.Hiche. Around the head-waters of this
river, especially around Upsalquitch Lake, from which it is
but a short portage into the Nepisiquit river, lies what is
undoubtedly the finest moose and caribou country in the
Province of New Brunsuick. .As a moose country, this par-
ticular region is probably unexcelled if equalled, in the world,

* (

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159

;and, as far as the caribou are concerned, it is improbable
that anyone could wish them more plentiful than through this
.paradise of the bigf-game hunter.

Both branches of this river, the southwest and south-
east, lie absolutely in the wilderness, and, for the most part,
are free from even the civilizing influence of the lumberman.
The country can be reached in a variety of ways ; up
the Restigouche to the mouth of the Upsalquitch, then up the
Upsalquitch to its head-waters; or, from Andover, on the St.
John river, one may go up the Tobique to Nictor Lake,
portage across the Nepisiquit Lake, at the headwaters of the
Nepisiquit river; then travel down the river to portage
brook, and across by portage again, to Upsalquitch Lake,
finishing the trip by going down the Upsalquitch river, and
down the Restigouche to Campbellton; again the region can
be reached by going up the Nepisiquit river from Bathursl in
Gloucester County, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, until port-
age brook is reached, and then portaging to Upsalquitch
Lake as before. This is perhaps the most practical method
0f reaching the Lake region, though the Tobique route is
a$*o an excellent one, there being in this case, the additional
advantage that excellent guides can be procured among the
.Malicetes at the mouth of the Tobique river.

Bm to return to the Squaw Cap mountain. The path to
this ^bm^-^is hill— and the trip is one that will never be
regretted- through a tangle of undergrowth which is

kept open b, ..^ numerous bears that traverse it.

The man who acted as our guide, when I climbed the
mountain, in company with a number of the members ot the
Summer School of Science, in August. 1899, informed me
that he had taken thirteen bears by traps set along this
particular path. When the mountain its«W is reached, you
have to contend for fifteen hundred feet or more, with a
steep slope of broken shales and slates. The panorama
that opens out as one gets higher and higher, is beautiful in
the extreme.

To the northwest lies the Province of Quebec, running
through which, in both directions as far a^ the eye can

m*mii\

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C/5

160

reach, can be seen the Notre Dame Mountains. The Resti-
gouche valley with the glittering river, also winds away in
this direction towards the wilderness and bending arcr.nd to
the westward its valley can be traced for a long distance.
To the south as before mentioned, can be seen the Upsj.l-
quitch valley and the mountains, while to the west stretches
the apparently interminable wilderness. PVom the eastern
face the Sugar Loaf mountain, ji.st back of Campbellton,
some twenty odd miles distant, is visible, while beyond, half
hidden in a white haze, stretches the beautiful Bay Chaleur,
and to the southeast all is wilderness again.

Just opposite the mouth of the Upsalquitch, lies the
beautiful little settlement of Runnymede, an almost perfectly
flat alluvial plain, on which are several fine farms; while a
little farther down river, on the opposite side of the stream
is Dawsonville, nestling at the base of Slate Mountain. Be-
tween the Upsalquitch and Dawsonville, the road runs
along the steep base of Slate Mountain, two or three
hundred feet above the river almost directly below,
and from the birches that cover the side hill, you can look
down as you dnve along, over the green fields and pretty
farms of Runnymede. This particular region is, perhaps in
some respects, the finest from a scenic point of view, in the
Province of New Brunswick.

Just below Dawsonville is situated the worst rapid, and
for that reason, the most interesting to shoot, on the Resti-
gouche river. None of the rapids on the Restigouche can be
said to be dangerous, though this one is the nearest approach
to anything of the sort. If a canoe were overturned in such
a rapid as this, probably the only bad result would be that
the occupants would get very wet, and this they decidedly
would do.

VVe dined rather 'ate just below the rapid, and here met
a whole flotilla of scows en route to the upper stretches ot
the river. They did not ^.tempt to go tlirough the main
rapid, but took an alterative course which here lies open
to them, and followed a smaller channel, thus avoiding the
hard pull they would otherwise have.

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The sun was low when we got into the most famous^
ot all portions of the most beautiful of New Brunswick,
rivers: the mouth of the Matapedia, "the meeting ot the
waters." Here from the hills of Quebec, this river, the
nearest the sea of any of the tributaries of the Resti-
gouche, flows in from a north-westerly direction. The In-
tercolonial Railway of Canada, which follows the Resti-
gouche river from Campbellton beyond up to this point,
here crosses aud follows the Matapedia up through the Pro-
vince of Quebec

Just beside the Matapedia station, is the head-quarters
of the Restigouche Salmon Club, a luxuriously-fitted up
building, where a number of prominent American gentlemen
come to wile away part of the summer, and, under the in-
fluence of the glorious scenery and the clear air, to regain
lost strength and nervous energy, that has dribbled away
amid the bustle and roar of an American city.

No sooner had I landed at Matapedia, than Mr. Baker,
the gentleman in charge of the interests of the Restigouche
Salmon Club, invited me to dine with him, and despite
my protestations that I had nothing to wear for such an
occasion, and had no possibility of getting shaved, both lie
and his wife insisted that I was to go as I was. As J then
rejoiced in the possession of from a quarter to a half inch oi
beard— it was then in that stage which someone has neatly
described by saying that its possessor's face looked like the
cylinder of a music box— it could be readily imagined that I
was not altogether proud of my personal appearance. My
dinner dress consisted of— beginning at the bottom— a pair
of anhydrous K boots, a pair of course grey pants, construct-
ed for lite in the woods, with compound seat and knees; a
pair of leather suspenders, a grey lumbermen's shirt without
a necktie, and a brown canvas coat. One can understand
that my first thoughts led to things in civilization.

It is almost worth spending ten days away from civil-
ization, for the amount of appreciation for news which one
develops in a remarkably short time. I discovered among
other things, that war had broken out between Great Britain.

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162

' '^h.^' I'r^Tu' ""' """'^ ^° '">• '^'^^-'■'*^' ^'^^^ the
bhamrock had been beaten by the "Columbia," and then

here was a horde of other thing^s ot more or less secondary
importance, which weae all interestinjf. ^

My host informed me that we mig-ht occupy the lodge
recently vacated by the head keeper tor the Salmon Club
which was situated just across the river, and this we j^Hadlv-
chd, and that night had our first sleep under a roof We
were but thirteen miles from Campbeliton, which we intend-
ed to reach the next afternoon, so that this would be our
last n.ght in camp. Now we were indeed into civilisation,
and in the night we were disturbed by the altogether unfami-
liar sound of the Maritime Express, the finest train in the
world, as she thundered North in the direction of Montreal.

Sunrise saw us again on the move tor our last dav's
journey and as we passed beneath the railway bridge round
one of the river's bends, Bra.ketts Mountain, on the Quebec
shore, loomed through the blue haze ahead. Now the river
ran moderately shoal, and now we crossed a deep pool where
thousands upon thousands of suckers, which are common
also on the upper stretches of the river, swam lazily awa^ as
our canoes approached. Down we glided past flatlands 'and
the upper islands to Morrisey's rock, where the Intercolonial
railway passes through a short tunnel as it winds along the
bank of the river. ^

All along are farm-houses and on the islands the last of
the harvest was in, and the hay stood here and there in cocks

wol hold"""^'""' '' ''' '"^'"'^"^ ^' -- - ^'^ ^-

The view from the Morrisey rock is very fine both up
and down river. Looking down stream the river, as it flows
round the innumerable islands, stretched away towards the
Sugar Loat Mountain and Campbeliton eight miles distant
^ Noon brought us to the Head of Tid.. and the water
Clanged from that indescribable clearness to the com-
parative murkiness of saltwater. Between these pictur-
esque little islands, the channels run everywhe-e

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The two canoes were p.lled ,o,.e.her, and we sat a^ e
the last meal of the trip on board; then stirt^.i .■

™'-s paddle through salt water. ^:,:^tZ:Z
h-bcur was_so instantaneo, as to h. h' rd .^11°

AN INCIDENT o< THE TRIP. "

As we were passing along throuL'h f'ie fl-.t ,.k .
r^de below the n,ot,th of the Go^no.it.M' ,:j •„::;: ,;!

i^are. over left bank, came the reolv ;inrJ th«.
enough, ha„ hidden b, son,e smal, shrub ,' we co;e\r

1 picked out ,5^!'^"'y;^-"^'''' "fV ya^ds, and still no motion.

picked out the exact spot where I was troin^ tn hi, i,-
and then the head was slow,, raised, and th^e ^ ea.s hroT^
forward and a cow moose ga.ed at us placidf/frperhap

e. J:/:^rre Vbet JL-d^tl^^^^^

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Nothmg strikes you as more remarkable than the won
derfu, ctnetness with which such a large anin.a. as a moot
can steal away when frightened. '"oose

In the Province of New Brunswick there is a finp ^f f
hundred dollars (S400) for shooting a coJLo.e. '°"^

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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There were no more halfsunken logs, no more foaming
rapids or beds of glistening pebbles; but, now and then, an
area of eel grass alternating with the deep channel. The
zip, zip of the paddle continued uninterruptedly, accom-
panied only by an air that the Indian hummed as be paddled;
there were no stops and precautionary silences, lor there
were no bends to round and no big game to watch for. A
light easterly breeze flowed in from the Gulf of St. Lawrence
over the glittering water, and drifted the white smoke from
the big saw-mills up past the round dome ot Sugar Loaf
which stood out black against the sky, behind the town.

On the left bank of the river— on the Quebec shore —
some distance above the town, we passed the Indian Mission
of St. Anne's situated on Mission Point. Here some four
hundred or five hundred Micmac Indians live in a rather
neatly bui't village. Their spiritual wants are catered
to by some Fathers of] the Capucin Order, and on Sundays
and fete days, the little bfick church has a large congregation
of aboriginal Americans. In this village are to be found
some of the most famous guides and hunters of this section
of the country. Not far from the village can be seen at low
water, a relic that recalls another period in the history of
Canada. Just above the wash of the usually calm waters of
the Bale des Chaleurs, stand out the blackened, broken tim-
bers of a vessel that must have been of considerable size.
They are the sole remains of one of a fleet of French war-
ships which sailed into the Bale des Chaleurs and were there
hunted out by one of the roving fc-nglish Admirals of that
period, and utterly destroyed, as a fitting culm.ination to the
struggle which, but a short time before, had included
Wolfe's victory on the Plains of Abraham.

The whole region of the lower Restigouche river is one
which is of the utmost interest to the historian and archae-
ologist. On both banks of the river, within. a few miles of
Campbellton, have been found great numbers of Indian relics;,
relics of the days before even the ^yes of Eric the Norseman
had pierced the fog that hung on the banks of Newfound-
land, md opened the way for the subsequent discovery of

Jljiifl

165

here almost as common as are those ot the earlier time. Now
and then, as the farmer of the present day is plowing, he

bL oT ' T- 'T'' " ^^"°"-'^"' ^' ^^^ ^-* --°^ed

French r l.u ' "'"' ^^ ^^e fierce struggle between the
^rench. and the possessors of the land that were to be
Somet,„,es a light brass gun is found, and occasionally one
ot the heavy mass.ve cannons, that belched death from the

hand K T ^"^^^-'""^'^ t^^ -lers of the seas took I
hand in the work, and they were silenced forever

m.-.^R ""^ T"^^^ '°°'' ^^°"' '^^ '^'"^"^•^"' head waters of the
m.sty Ba.e des Chaleurs, it is not to be wondered that the
place was such a favorite with the men who came in former
times. The great run of salmon up the river, as it still con-
tinue ,,, have formed no small attraction, as must also

kbds A';rr: "■'' ^'^^"^^ variety of game of other
kinds. And the large game is as plentiful as ever, much
more plentiful m fact, than it was a quarter or half century
ago Agam. the fertility of the soil and the great luxuriance
o the forest growth, must have added greatly to the value
ot th.s part of the country which was at once apparent
Even now. when centuries have passed, the country has bee,^

itl^d b'e.^''^^^'"^'' ^"' ^^ ''-' ^^°- '^^^"^ ^-^•'^P^^ -
The town of Campbellton has the finest situation, from,
ascemcpomt of view, in the Province of New Brunswick
It ,s on the extreme head-water of the Baie des Chaleurs. an
estuary of the Restigouche River about sixteen miles above
the tou^ of Dalhousie. the shireunvn of the county, which is
generally considered as being at the normal mouth of the
nver. There is deep water, however, up to the wharves at
Campbellton. The Sugar Loaf Mountain, a dome-shaped
h.ll a thousand feet in height, rises a mile or more from the
nver. and from its base, the town gently slopes down to the
water s edge. On the opposite side of the river, the long,
blue, uneven ridge of the Shickshock Mountains stretches
away ,n both directions, through the Province of Quebec.
Ihe Shickshocks are a part of the Notre Dame Range

(jij

166

The view trom the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain looking
across the river and down into the Baie des Chaleurs, with
the town of Campbellton at your feet, with its houses gleam-
ing white, seeming no bigger than rows of toadstools a
thousand feet below, is one of the most beautiful I
have ever seen, and undoubtedly the finest of its type in this
part of Canada. The town is so situated as to ta.^ the lum-
ber resources of this portion ot the Province, and great
drives come down the Restigouche to be sawn into deals a'
the mills in Campbellton. One of these mills will perhap-;
make an average cut of four million feet during the Summer
months, and until navigation closes in the Autumn, which it
does late in November or in December, ships, barques and
steamers come up to the wharves at Campbellton to load
deal, a great portion of which goes to the old country.

Like most Maritime Province towns, practically every
denomination is here represented, church spires, as is usually
the case forming prominent features in pictures of the town.
The Intercolonial Railway passes through Campbellton on
its route from Halifax to Montreal, and thus the town has
the finest transportation facilities. Sportsmen often make
this delightfully situated place their head-quarters. The
fields for large game hunting are conveniently accessible
from here, and in the Spring and Fall the Baie des Chaleurs
is crowded with enormous numbers of different varieties of
ducks and geese.

By halt-past three in the afternoon, after paddling past
several of the wharves, we swung to a float, which was just
being vacated by a ferry-boat — ihat I have always believed
should have been ranked with the seven wonders of the
world — and stepped ashore, and the trip was at an end. It
remained but to get packed up, to answer the thousand-and-
one questions put to us by the inhabitants, to get the Indians
started for home, and to leave ourselves for St. John, on the
Maritime Express, a very much more elaborate, but not a
whit more luxurious method of travelling than we had been
indulging in during the last twelve days. After settling
with the Indians, and saying good-bye to them, we took a

167

surreptitious glance into the second-class car. They were
seated opposite each other, each with his feet up on the

theiTw T r' ''"^ ''"' "'^' '""^ ^^"^^^ ^^^'^ -"Gaining
their wardrobe, stowed away in the racks above. Each had

an a.r of contentment, and each was puflFing- away at a ten-
cent imported cigar, which they had gotten on the strength
o^ receiving their salaries. From what I heard later through
Mr. Perley. those cigars must have been very strong or
e^e some other form of intoxicant must have been resorted
to, for after the 24 hours ride they arrived home in a
wonderful state of mental exhileration, and, according to the
same gentleman, made more laudatory remarks about me
personally than I have ever had made before or since

THL cASTERN SLOPE, INCLUDING THE COUNTIES OP
GLOUCESTER, NORTHUMBERLAND AND KENT

(WESTMORLAND INCLUDED WITH ALBERT COUNTY UNDER
SEPARATE HEAD.)

^° ;-fP^«t once more what I have said several times
before all that I have even striven to do in this book is to
describe territory which is typical of the different portions of
the Province and no^, to attempt to give any exhaustive
description of these portions themselves. Thus it may often
seem that in one part of the Province some particular politi-
cal division labor, sacrificed to some other. It will be
found on examination that the part which is apparently
sacrificed is not essentially different from some other part
generally near at hand which has been described moro fully
All this IS especially true of the region we are considering
under this heading.

In the three counties of Gloucester, Northumberland
and Kent there are many things in common, and this will
also apply in the case of Eastern Westmorland County
But on account of the considerable area of Westmorland

168

which is effected more or less directly by the peculiarities of
the Bay of F'undy, I have placed it with the County of
Albert, much resembling it in its physical features, under a
a separate heading. The Eastern slope comprising the
three counties named, all of which are bounded on the East,
and in the case of Gloucester on the North also, by the Gulf
of St. Lawrence, is a country, in its seaward portions,
of multitudes of bays and harbors, some small and some
of very great extent. The coast is, for the mo?>t part,
low lying, there being no hills that attain any consider-
able elevation. Along the Eastern shore, South of
Shippegan and Miscou Islands, and extending to the harbour
of Shediac, much of the true coast is protected from the sea
by great bars of sand, which, under the influence of the
easterly storms, hiive been thrown up by the action of the
waves. These bars enclose harbours or lagoons which are
usually shoal, though in mai y cases their channels afford
excellent anchorage for ships of very considerable tonnage.
The finest of the harbours along the Eastern coast is un-
doubtedly that of Chathair in Northumberland County, the
town being situated on an estuary of the Miramichi River at
the head of the bay of that name. The rivers and small
streams which flow from these three counties into the Gulf
of St. Lawrence art simply innumerable. The most import-
ant of these are: In Gloucester County the Nepisiquit, one of
the famous trout and salmon streams of the world; in Nor-
thumberland, the i.obk Miramichi, second only to the St.
John River in size; whii.. in Kent County the most important
stream is the Richibucto.

Farming is, along the shore on the eastern slope,
carried on in a manner that is typical of the country, and on
account of the great similarity of the soil there is no great
variation in methods noted in the three counties. Though
advancement has been slow in coming, it has been steady,
except at certain periods, and is now proceeding much more
rapidly than before. Next to farming, lumbering and fish-
ing vie with each other as to their importance as industries
throughout this section, and now a new source of wealth is

169

being introduced in the manufacture of pulp from the spruce
which so plentifully clothes this part of the Province.

To look at the counties somewhat more in detail:— As
can be seen by examining a map of the Province, the County
of Gloucester occupies the extreme northeast corner of the
irregular quadrilateral which the Province forms, and in-
cludes, off to the northeast, the two considerable islands,
Miscou and Shippegan. The chief harbours in the county,
though the whole B.y Chaleur lying to the North may be
considered one great harbour, are around on the north,
Bathurst and Caraquet, the land between being extremely
picturesque and pretty; Shippegan Harbour between the
main land. Great Pokesuedie Island and the Island of Ship-
pegan; Miscou Harbour between the Islands of Shippegan
and Miscou; then on the East Pokmouche Gully and
Tracadie Lagoon, the last two comparatively shoal. The
rivers are, first and most important, the Nepisiquit, in its
last stretches, running almost directly north and emptying
mto Bathurst Harbour and finally out into Nepisiquit Bay.
The big and little Tracadie Rivers are next in importance;
these with the Pokmouche and the T6t6-a-gouche being
famous fishing streams. Besides those mentioned are a
multitnde of little streams, nearly all able to supply their
quotom of sport for the angler.

The farming lands of the county are situated around
the shores, the interior being to a grc d extent covered with
lumber and containing no settlements of importance. Im-
mediately around the mouth of the Nepisiquit, westerly and
northerly, where travels the Intercolonial Railway, and to
the east of the Nepisiquit where the Gulf Shore and Caraquet
Railway opens up,large stretches of country are to be found,
some of the best farms in the county. While along the
coast south of Shippegan down to the southern boundary of
the county, farming is improving rapidly.

The soil in the eastern portion of Gloucester County
overlies the carboniferous formation. The sharp line of
<lemarkation between this formation and the Slate Belt which
traverses the Province, running approximately, northeast

170

■

and southwest, cuts Gloucester County and reaches the Bale
des Chaleur at Bathurst, leaving fully two-thirds of the
eastern portion of the county carboniferous, the remaining-
western third lying- over this portion of the Slate Belt. In
the reg-ion of Bathur.st there are some out-crops of granite,
diorite and soforth, but these do no cover any considerable
portion of the county. The soil of Gloucester as is also true
ot Northumberland, Kent and Eastern Westmorland, is for
the most part, a considerably lighter loam than is found in
Restigouche County. The Counties of Northumberland and
Kent also lie, to a great extent, in the carboniferous portion,
the Western part of Northumberland, north of the main
Miramichi River, lying also in the Slate Belt. Kent County
lies entirely in carboniferous formation, and the same system
underlies the soil of the County of Westmorland. Through
the whole shore region of the County, the quality of the
farming land is well Calculated to impress the observer very
favourably ; a part of it has been very carefully worked, and
a very considerable portion of it has been worked but indif-
ferently.

From Bathurst round to Tracadie the population consists
to a greater extent of French, though there is a comparative-
ly large number of farmers of English, Irish and Scotch
descent. Tracadie, Caraquet, Bathurst and the vicinity of
Petite Roche present probably the best developed farms in the
county. Here, as elsewhere, dairying has taken a start, and
is advancing with most remarkable rapidity.

The town of Bathurst, the shiretown of the County, is
situated on the harbour of that name and is on the main line
of the Intercolonial Railway. The greater portion of this
town lies on a point between the mouths of the Nepisiquit
and Little Rivers. Across the mouth of the Little River runs
a bridge to the smaller portion of the town, which lies on a
rather sharp hill overlooking the bay. The harbour itself is
over three miles in length, and in places almost as wide.
Several lumber mills cluster about the town, the logs for
which come, for the most part, down the Nepisiquit.

171

Bathurst on account of its situation has long been a
favome as a Summer resort; the days are seldom uncom-
fortably warm, and the nights invariably cool. The harbour
opens out on the broad, beautiful Nepisiquit Bay. itself a
southern extension of Baie des Chaleur. The good things
that may be sa.d ot Maritime Province towns, may be said
also of Bathurst. It has some really fine churches, excellent
schools and a few rather imposing public buildings; the rest
of the houses and buildings are. for the most part unnre-
tent.ous, but when taken in connection ^ith the surround-
mgs the effect is remarkably pleasing. For one who loves
a village lying where the fresh breeze from the sparkling blue "
water, can blow in at every door; a village that lies in the
m.dst of an excellent farming and magnificent sporting
country. Bathurst may be ranked with those places which a
German writer describes as "interesting to visit, but de-
I.ghtful to live in." Into the harbour, besides the Nepis-.quit
which we have already mentioned.empties the Tete-a-gouche
famed for its wonderfully beautiful falls, the Little River a
pretty little stream flowing from the south and the Middle
River, the mouths of the last two, converging to their junc-
tion.

The various harbours of Gloucester County form centres
for an important fishing industry. The Gulf of St Law-
rence teems with cod and haddock, and a man can obtain his
winter supply of these fish if he choo. .s by simply spending
a few days in catching and curing them. Great schools of
mackerel, once far more plentiful then at present, are fouvid
throughout Northumberland Straits and this portion of the
Gulf of St. Lawrence, and great quantities of herring are
obtainable at nearly all times. Shippegan harbour is
often crowded with the fishing fleet, the numbers of vessels
with their white sails forming, on some fine summer day. a
beautiful picture, as they lie in the land-locked bay. Every-
where around the Gulf are to be found lobster factories.
Lobster fishing, however, has become a far less remuner-
ative pursuit than formerly, as the shellfish have decreased
considerably under the influence of the wholesale fishing-

172

thousands of tons being taken along the Gulf Shore
annually. In the winter, great quantities of smelt are taken
through the ice. A fuller description of these, however,
will be gik'en under the head of Northumberland County.

Let us turn our attention, for a little while to the spor<:
ing facilities afforded by Gloucester County. For big game
the most famous, though not necessarily the best region, is
along the course of the Nepisiquit River. Excelkiit sport
has been obtained within 20 miles of Bathurst. Mr

•

Reynolds, in his *'Gun and Rod" in New Brunswick, cited
the instance of a man who, in 1896, had but a few days to
spare, and decided to try his luck at Gordon Brook near the
■Grand Falls of the Nepisiquit, about 20 miles above Bathurst.
In a week he succeeded in getting a moose, two caribou and
a bear. The hunting region, as far as big game is concerned in
the County, is in its extreme western portion ; though the
eastern section of the County, around the head-waters of
Lord and Foy's Brook, and the north branch of the big
Tracadie River, have seen some excellent sport. The County
of Gloucester, however, is chiefly famed for its wild fowl
shooiing ; the number of geese, brant and ducks which ara
to be seen in the proper seasons along the coast, being al-
most unbelievable. On the Baie des Chaleur side, on
Nepisiquit Bay and in the region of Caraquet Harbour,
enormous numbers of s.a ducks are to be found every Spring
and Autumn, but one must go to the Islands of Miscou and
Shippegan to thoroughly appreciate the numbers of birds
which pass through >;he Straits of Northumberland on their
noithwaid and southward migrations. Almost without
exception the birds breed in Labrador, and from the begin-
ning of April until well on in June, and from the beginning
of September almost to Christmas time, a continuous stream
of wild lowl pour to and from the cold, bleak shores of the
Peninsula, on which are their breeding places. Probably
nowhere in the world can finer brant and goose shooting be
obtamed than in Tracadie Lagoon. October is the finest
month for shooting these birds, employing the method com-
com in this section of the country. A "sink-box" consisting

173

of a coffin shaped box, just sufficiently deep to hold a man,
•without his being visible, which is sunk flush with a raft,
some 12x9 feet in size, is anchored out on the feeding-
grounds of the birds, and around it are anchored a large
number, 70 or 80 decoys. As the tide falls, allowing the
birds to get at the eel grass which forms their principal
food, they fly to the feeding grounds In smaller flocks,
invariably swinging in and alighting in the centre of a flock
that may be there. This continues until three or four
thousand birds wil! be found on one feeding ground
If, however, the first flock on the ground happens to be the
sportsman's flock of decoys with their owner carefully con-
cealed in the centra of the flock, the birds swing in as usual,
and, just as they are about tu alight, the man sits up and
fires. The result may be four or five birds at a single shot,
though this Is, of course, exceptional.

Let me give an actual instance of a day's shooting
on one of these lagoons in the middle of October:— Vou have
arranged with your Acadian guide the day before, and long
before the first streak of dawm, you are eating a breakfast of
baked beans accompanied by big mugs ot coffee, ^nd a few
minutes more seris you ready for the fray. The guide has
turned up half an hour before, and has been patiently smok-
ing in front of a big open fire place. Your companion, who
is going to try beach shooting, which consists of crawling
into a hole dug in the sand and waiting for the incoming
birds to fly over you— is working away with a rag covered
with vaseline, putting the finishing touches on his gun. Vqu
have collected a bag of shells, looked at it (houghtfully for a
minute or two, and finally decided to add yei another twenty-
five to the number already enclosed; and the precaution is a
wise one. A moment afterward and three men are wending
their way f.irough the intense darkness that comes before the
dawn, down to the point on the beach where the guide has
left his pirogue, a peculiar, staunchly-constructed dug-out,
much in service around the north shores of New Brunswick,
in the bow are piled an enormous flock of wooden decoys,
with their anchor lines attached, and apparently in imminent

iir

f i

djinger of ^'etting inextricably langled. You step in, and
as the peculiar craft moves off, propelled by the powerful
arms of the descendent of the Acadians, from out the dark
to the eastward, .ou hear one of the strange, wild calls
from some stray brant, that sets your blooU boiling and
makes every nerve alert. You reach the feeding ground
where the "sink-box" has already been anchored without
incidcMt, and step in. The wood is cold and damp, and you
place your makinak blanket over the grating in the bot-
tom of the box, get your shell-bag and gun in a convenient
position, and sit on the edge of the box watching the Acadian
as he places the decoys here and there, until his artistic eye
is satisfied with the group. Everything is still dark, and the
whole (^arformance is a rather sh vy one. Then with mutual
wishes for good luck, you and your friend part and he is soon
in his hole on the sand bar. The Frenchman retires around
a convenient point} gets in a comfortable position in the
bottom of the pirogue, and proceeds to smoke like a furnace.
Before this has been accomplished, the black has turned to
grey, and the grey is slowly brightening in the east. There
is no wind, and all is quiet except for the occasional bark of
a great Black-backed Gull, or the still more occcasionat
pur-r-r-r-r-p of a brant. The notes from the seaward become
more frequent as the light brightens, and suddenly there is a
flash and bang from the beach which causes you to retreat
in good order into your trenches. No splash *"ollows the
shot, however, and you " hallo " through the darkness, and
ask "what luck?" " Couple of geese," comes the reply, "but
missed 'em both, too dark to see yet." Then there is another
shot and a bird falls very near your owr. box. None, how-
ever, seem to be coming your way, and shot after shot
rings out from the beach. By this time it is thoroughly
light, and the birds can be seen coming in from the open
sea in great flocks and alighting in diff"erent parts of
the lagoon. There is yet an hour before the tide will have
fallen sufficiently on your particu'ar section of the feeding
ground to attract many birds tc the spot, and you fill the
interval with an occasional shot at a black duck that swings

t|/

175

-In lo your d. -oys, mistaking- them, in the uncertain light for
his own kith. A littie lat

le later and, m a blaze of red and gold,
the sun climbs above the waters of the Gulf oi'tside the beach,
and lights up the tops o( t^-e ripples causer' by the little
breeze that has "risen with the sun."

The tips of the eel grass are now visible r.round you,
and you duck your head just too late to deceive a flock of ten
or twelve birds that were coming whistling down behind
you. With 1 warning note or two they wheel and make for
another part of the lagoon, and properly rebuked, you keep
your head where it should be. Vour chance soon comes
again, however, and behind you you hear the rustle and
swish of wings. Your box is faced down the wind, however,
and you know that they will come round to the leeward of
your decoys before attempting to alight. Round on your
right they come. They swing out for sixty or seventy
yards and you feel that you have lost them. Then with
wings set, they wheel again and come straight for your feet.
Eighty, seventy, fifty, thirty yards and you sit up, and, as
their under coverts flash in the morning sunlight, as they
attempt to turn, you pour one barrel after another of No. 4
shot into the group. Splash, splash, splash, in rapid suc-
cession, and one spreads his wings and comes down three
hundred yards away, not however, without having been
marked by the keen eye of the Frenchman who is peering
over the beach a good third of a mile away, with a grin that
can almost be seen at this distance. Ten minutes more and
the fun is fast and furious, and you become an expert
at leading in a reclining position, while a flock that has just
visited your decoys, minus two or three of their former num-
bers, races off down the wind at a speed of eighty miles an
hour. And so it continues until the tide has risen again. The
flocks have been small, from seven to possibly fifteen birds,
and, so far, not a Canada goose to be seen. Mow two or
three of them in their turn swing into the decoys, and you
get one of them. Later another pair come in unsuspiciously;
you nerve yourself for the attempt; fire at the right hand
-bird, and swing to the left, you fire the second barrel without

ni,

176

iiiil

having- waitec! to see the effect of the first, and when the
smoke has cleared away, you find, much to your edification,
that you have ^ot them both. The tide is now too hig-h for
anything- further, but a chance shot, and you stand up in the
box anc vave your hat in t!ie direction of the worthy on the
beach whose head is by this time a complicated map of dead
birds, tidal currents and probable drifts. He comes out
and the pirog-ue moves into all sorts of impossible positions
each time, however, emerg^ing- with a dead bird. By the
time he has arrived at the box, having called for your friend
in the meanwhile; you have calculated that you should have
23 brant and three geese, and find that your calculation is
verified. Your friend, in a less favoured position, has gotten
but 14 birds, but his goose record is far ahead of yours, and
his total foots up 22, giving him 8 of the most magnificent
of game birds, the Canada goose.

It would take* far more than the lifetime of even the
longest lived sportsman to forget such a day's t-hooting as
this, and when you reach home in the middle of the
afternoon, your bliss is completed by finding that some of
your old-time rivals in the art have turned up to try their
luck, and are standing on the veranda as you stagger up
under your load of birds.

Mr. D. G. Smith, in "Gun and Rod" in New Brunswick,
aptly gives an idea of the extent of waters suitable for brant
and goose shooting throughout this section of he Province,
by saying that Caraquet, Pokmouche. Miscou and Shippegan
have shooting grounds of the kind described "where a
thousand men may shoot without interfering with each
other" and he might have added that if the thousand men
continued shooting for several days, it would probably be
difficult to distinguish the diminution in the enormous flocks
of birds along this coast.

With regard to the fishing in the County of Gloucester,
trout and salmon can be obtained in great quanrities. Trout
fishing can be found in practically every stream, large and
small. Mr. Smith speaking of one of the rivers of the
County already mentioned says; "Tracadie River is !

177

believe from my experience on it, the best sea trout stream
m Canada, not even excepting the Tabusintac which is next
south of it. The numerous small lakes in the County also
afford excellent trout fishing-, and the Nepisiquit and
Pokmouche are favorite salmon streams, the former having
long been famous as a rendevous of the king of game fish.

The beauties of the Nepisiquit River, deserve very much
more time and space given to them than I can afford. On
October 4, 1899. I drove from Bathurst to a point a short
distance above the so-called Pabineau Falls, though they
might be more correctly termed Pabineau Rapids,which I have
preferred calling them in view of the general characteristics.
An excellent road runs from Bathurst to these rapids, and a
very good portage road runs twelve miles further on the
west bank of the river to the Grand Falls of the Nepisiquit
The scene at the Grand Falls from the descriptions and
photographs which I have seen, though I have never been
there personally, must be one of extraordinary beauty.
Here the river plunges over a vertical fall into a deep gorge
around which it is necessary to portage in traversing the
river by canoe. The lower portion of the Nepisiquit, two or
three miles above Bathurst, is known as the "rough- waters,"
the whole bed of the river being strewn with boulders.through
which, at first, it would seem impossible for a light birch bark
canoe to pick its way. Under the skilful handling of the
guides, however, the difficulties are surmounted most effect-
ually. Above this point the stream presents a clear channel,
until the Pabineau rapids are reached, eight miles from the
mouth of the river. Here the stream descends in a series of
leaps, the impassable water being over three hundred yards in
all. The spring floods have carved the rocky ridge into a
thousand picturesque forms, and here are presented some
excellent examples of what are known among geologists as
pot-holes. These are caused by a few moderate sized stones
setting in some depression in ihe rock, and there being
whirled round and round by the waters which form over
them. The result is that deep, smooth sided wells, three
or four feet in diameter, are cut vertically in the solid

178

rock down until the level of the river below is reached.
Several of these pot-holes of the Pabineau rapids are practi-
cally perfectly symmetrical, and excellent examples of their
kind. The top of the rocky ridge has been flattened oflf,
until in some places it presents a table-like surface, the edges
ot which are cut down vertically to the water. When the
water is low, during late Summer and early Autumn, the
entire volume of the river rushes through a narrow gorge,
and plunges roaring and seething, finally into a salmon pool
of great depth at the foot of the rapids.

Unlike the Resligouche the Lower Nepisiquit runs
through a comparatively flat country, and for the beauty you
are mora dependent upon the river itself than on its sur-
roundings. The upper portion of the Nepisiquit Fiiver will
be mentioned when speaking of Northumberland County.

A number of three-pound trout had been taken out of
the pool below the Rabineau Rapids the day previous to my
visiting it.

NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY.

The County of Northumberland, the largest in the Pro-
vince, lies south of Gloucester, north of Kent; is bounded
on the east by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and on the west
by several of the St. John River Counties. According to
Mr. Lugrin, it contains 2,756,000 acres. It embiaces a con-
siderable portion of the central part of the Province, the
greater part of it being heavily timbered, and containing a
game area of nearly four thousand square miles. The most
important industry in Northumberland County is that of
lumbering. Enormous drives of logs come down the vari-
ous branches of the Miramichi River every Spring, though
a considerable quantity is brought round the shore from the
mouth of the Tracadie River, by the largest operator in the
Province, whose mills are situated here. I refer to Senator
Snowball.

!^. »ra*«T^-"v*easaaBSSiafi:ii,

179

The chief, and for that matter, the only harbor having
any considerable depth of water in the County, is that of
Chatham. Chatham harbor has situated in it three towns in
the following order as one proceeds up stream: Chatham
on the left bank, Douglastown on the right bank, five miles
above Chatham; Newcastle on the right bank. Chatham
harbor is the second shipping port in the province, St. John,
of course, taking the lead. The greater portion of Northum-
berland County, for that matter the greater portion of
central New Brunswick, is drained by the Miramichi River
and its tributaries. Through the northwest and extreme
northern portion of the County runs the Nepisiquit River,
emptying into Bathurst harbor in Gloucester County. The
ramifications of the Miramichi are simply innumerable, as
are also the small lakes about its headwaters. The result of
this is that Northumberland vies with Restigouche County
on the north, and the eastern part of Victoria County on the
west, as a game country. AV the extreme head of Nepisiquit
River is Nepisiquit Lake, while just across the border in
Restigouche County, lies Nictor Lake, spoken of in the
description of that County. Between fifteen and twenty
miles to the eastward, barely within Northumberland County,
lies Upsalquitch Lake, at the headwaters of the Upsalquitch
River, while south of these three throughout the main west-
ern portion of Northumberland, lie a perfect host of others.
These will be referred to more at length later. As in the case of
Gloucester County, the greater portion of the farming area
lies along the sea coast, though some is to be found along
the upper waters of the southwest Miramichi, where are situ-
ated Boistown and Doaktown, farming industries on the
interval land which is found here.

The description given of interval land on the St. John
River, will serve very well for that in this County, the same
conditions obtaining; while the description of the farming
land of Gloucester County will serve for the coastal portions
of Northumberland. Th- most finely developed part of this
coastward farming country is to be found at Napan, on the
south side of the Miramichi, a short distance east of Chatham

180

Here along the Napan River is situated a well tilledr
piece of country where a considerable stock is to be found,
and which shows the effects ot the rapid advance in methods
now so noticeable throughout the Province. Like Glouces-
ter, this part of the' County has no great elevations, consist-
ing, for the most part, of rolling uplands, continuing its
excellent quality of soil back to the edge of the forest; down
past little Branch, Bay du Vin, Hardwicke and Hardwood
settlements out to where Point Kscuminac light throws its
glare out over the broad waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence,
trying to outdo the light on the nortn point of Prince Edward
Lsland. Fifty miles to the eastward stretches the same type
of farming country, and the same is the case along the north
shore of the Bay down to Oak Point, thence to Burnt Church;
through the little French village of Nequac, and finally up
past Tabusintac Lagoon, are doted the farm houses. With
the exception of the lowns on the southwest Miramichi, the
population of Northumberland County is concentrated almost
entirely throughout this eastern section. The two most
important towns are Chatham and Newcastle. Newcastle, the
shiretown, is situated on the main line of the Intercolonial
Railway, at the head of deep water navigation of the
Miramichi River. The town lies on a gentle slope on the
north side of the river, between the railway and the har-
bour's front. On climbing to the top ot the beautiful stone
school building, (Harkin's Academy,) situated in the upper
part of the town, the first impression that comes home
strongly, as a result ot the scene that is spread betore you,
is that you are in the centre of what is essentially a lumber
country. To the westward stretches the lorest to the
horizon, and for several miles in a southward direction, the
broad Miramichi winds glittering away until it is lost to
sight in the woods above.

A mile or two up stream, on the other side of the river,
lies the little village of Nelson, its immense lumber mills
puflfing awayand sending enormous clouds ot smokeandsteam
into the quiet air. Down river, out on a point, lies Douglas-
town, practically a village of lumbermen, where are situated

181

the great mills of Mr. Ernest Hutchison, who gives em-
ployment to practically the entire population of the little
town, and still farther beyond, part of it seen over Douglas-
town, lies Chatham, on the opposite ban?- of th^ river five
miles away, with its saw-mills and pulp-mill, the smoke from
which drifts slowly across the placid bay below to where on
the opposite side of the river, the Dominion Pulp Company's
factory adds its quotum to the whole.

From your feet stretches Newcastle to the bank of the
river, along which are still other lumber mills, and a little up
river lie the piers that support the great booms full of logs
in the spring. Nearly everywhere you look there is a
wharf in sight, that wharf is piled with deals ready for
shipment to Great Britain, and in another part of the river
front, if the season is the same as in which 1 visited this
section— late September— preparations will be in progress
for making the next season's cut of logs; supplies will be en
route up stream, the same method as is used in the Resti-
gouche, being employed here, and with the tidesmen every-
thing will be stirring. So great is the pressure on the
lumber mills in this region, that they are generally kept run-
ning night and day; electric light being used at night to
obviate any danger of fire. These mills brilliantly lighted up
can be seen from the river throughout the night, and the
roar of the machinery, the backward and forward rattle of
the carriage, and the droning hum of the circular saw are
never still except on Sunday, and bespeak an industry which
though large, will stand much greater development. The
market is always good, but in the season of" 1899 it was
especially good. One of the chief operators in this sec-
tion, speaking of the lumber conditions a short time since,
said: "We lumbermen feel like millionaires this year.''
The most imposing buildings in Newcastle are,— the school
building, the Dominion building and one or two of the banks.
The hotels are excellent, the dwelling houses, for the most
part unpretentious but substanial. So much has been said
of the beautiful situation of various Maritime Province towns,
that it may seem to the reader who has never seen for

182

Tiimself, that this ph.ise of the descriptions is somewhat
•exaggerated; such, however, is not the case.

Both Chatham and Newcastle are situated on a broad,
winding estuary, the towns themselves sloping up prettily
from its shore. Newcastle is particularly well situated
with regard to the drives which may be taken from this
ipoint as a centre. Two miles above the town is the junction
of the northwest and southwest branches of the Miramichi.
Roads run up both branches for some distance, and also up
the more important of the side streams. A mile below the
town is the mill cove, where a streamlet winds its way
through a deep, wide gorge, from the upper part of which
can be obtained one of the finest vistas in the Province,
looking out on the Miramichi River. The road to the east
passes through Douglastown, and away along the north
shore, one branch running up through the most beautitul
woodland, through iBartibog and on toward Bathurst.
Bartibog is the centre of the finest caribou country in the
•eastern part of the Province. The mill cove is of especial
.interest, from an economic point of view, from the fact that
here is situated one of the finest freestone quarries to be found
— Fish's quarry. From this ledge of rock came the stone from
which the Dominion Parliament Buildings at Ottawa were
constructed. The quarry also produces fine quality grind-
stones and pulp mill stones. This section is exceedingly
thick, and some very large monoliths can be taken out. The
.Intercolonial Railway is most conveniently situated for ship-
.ment, as it passes the head of the quarry itself. This part of
Northumberland County seems to be especially favorable to
the growth of white birch; nowhere have I seen the tree
.attain finer development than here.

Chatham, a town of about 7,000 inhabitants, lies on
•the southeast side of the Miramichi, five miles below New-
.castle. It has every natural advantage thai a modern town
[requires for rapid advancement, being situated on a
ifine harbor, the finest in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, at
ithehead of Miramichi Bay. Newcastle and Chatham hold
the key to the shipment of the vast quantities of lumber that

183

come every season from the interior of New Brunswick-
No town m the Maritime Provinces.with the exception of St'
John, leaves the visitor with the impression that it is more
thoroughly alive than does Chatham. As is the case
throughout the Maritime Provinces as a whole, a great in-
terestjs taken in educational matters. The school buildings-
are rapidly being improved, and the number of pupils
speedily increasing. Here is situated the Miramichi Natural
H.Story Society, conducted much on the lines of the Natural
History Society of New Brunswick, at St. John. It is an
excellent institution; has the support and co-operation of the
best people of the tow,, and Province, and a most efficient
staff of scientists in connection with it. Dr. Baxter the
Ornithologist, Mr. J. B. D. F. MacKen.ie, the Entomologist,
and Dr. Philip Cox the Icthyologist, being the most promin-
ent. The public buildings are a credit to the town, the
Municipal Building being a fine example It contains a
spac«)us and beautiful Council Chamber, at one end of which
• s a mounted caribou head, which I shall never forget it
being one of the finest specimens I have ever had the good.
fortune to see ; a library which is rapidlv growing, and-
several other departments connected with the city's work
On the first floor is situated the fire apparatus, emboding
the latest improvements in modern machinery of the kind
The building itself is a handsome brick and stone structure
I may say that the tendency throughout the Province is one
of pride towards public works and buildings. The town
hall at Chatham, though typical of what we should like
IS above the average decidedly. The streets in this de-
lightful town are are well laid out for the most part
and throughout the resident section are lined with shade
trees. Practically all religious denominations are here
represented; the town being the seat of a Roman Catholic
bishop. The climate is delightfully cool in Summer, and
though cold in Winter, is not subject to rapid changes.

On week days the sing of the mills is ceaseless, and!
several other industries of no mean size, are in full operaUon.
It is a " .-.-.. . -

great distribution point for fishery products, and

IS.

184

connected with the Intercolonial Railway; while on the
south side of the Miramichi River, lies twelve miles distant,
a portion of the Canada Eastern connecting- with the Inter-
colonial Railway at Chatham Junction. Trains from Chatham
connect with every important train running- down the Inter-
colonial Railway. If any other method of reaching- this
railway is desired, one may take the steamer — in the Summer
time — which runs between Chatham and Newcastle, the
latter town lying directly on the main line.

An industry which has developed entirely in the last few
years in New Brunswick, and promises to assume propor-
tions so gigantic as, at present, to be only faintly estimated,
has chosen Chatham as one of its headquarters for the
present. Here are situated the factories of the Dominion
Pulp Company and the Maritime Sulphite Fibre Company.
The latter factory is situated in the town of Chatham itself,
while the former lie^ just across the stream about a mile
distant. Let me give a short description of the works of
the Maritime Sulphite Fibre Company: The main factory
is situated near the water's edge in the down river portion
ot the town, and is a very extensive brick and steel structure.
The "barking mill," where the bark is stripped from the
blocks of spruce used in the manufacture of pulp,
is situated in the higher portion of the town, between a
quarter and a half a mile from the main factory, vviili which
it is connected by a tramway. From this, a branch of the
Canada Eastern runs down to the boom of the Company,
where the large quantities of wood are hauled after being
brought down stream, and where is situated a steain haul-
up. The flat cars which are to take the logs up to the
barking mill, are backed in beside this haul-up, and the logs
are rapidly drawn up the incline by the powerful engine from
the boom below, and rolled on to the cars. The speed with
which cars can be loaded with heavy logs by this method is
simply marvellous. From here the cars are taken to one
side of the barking mill, about half a mile distant, where they
are rolled off ready for further operations. In this mill they
are cut up into three-foot lengths and the bark removed.

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185

After this process is finished (the improved machinery in use
accomplishing: it in a very short time) the blocI<s are taken by
a conveyor which runs high in the air some distance from the
mill, and at proper intervals, topples over, where they form
an enormous pile over a hundred yards in length. Here
they get pretty thoroughly dried, after which they are taken
in small cars prepared for the purpose, down the tramway
by a little locomotive, which is puffing its way back and forth
all day long, the piercing shrieks of its shrill whistle being
constantly on the air. These blocks are received in the
wood-room of the pulp mill, where, by the aid of powerful
machinery, they are torn up into small chips, ready to go to the
digestors. These digestors are enormous iron affairs capable
of holding seven tons of pulp at a time. Here the chips are
boiled for a long time with sulphurous acid, which the
Company makes itself by the aid of special furnaces and
acid. From the digestors, the whole mass is allowed to flow
mto the digestive pits, where a portion of the sulphurous
acid is reclaimed and the pulp thoroughly washed. By repeat-
ed treatment with water, the product then is of a light,
yellowish white colour and very finely divided. From here
it is ready to go to the elevators, and to them it is transport-
ed in little cars. The elevators carry it to the to ■ of the
building, and from here, until the completion of the process,
the pulp is transported entirely by flowing water. Down it
goes through floor after floor until it finally emerges from the
steam-heated drying cylinders in a broad web almost as
white as snow. There are various processes involved in the
meantime, which— though they are of the utmost interest,
even to one not scientifically interested— I must leave out
on account of lack of space. The product, as we now have
It, is ready for the paper makers, and it remains but to cut
It and bale it properly, and it is ready for the market.

The Maritime Sulphite Fibre Company turns out no less
that fifty tons (100,000 pounds) of pulp per day.

A short distance westward, on the opposite side of the
street from the Sulphite Fibre Company's mill, is situated
the lumber mill of Senator Snowball, the largest operator in

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186

the Province, as before mentioned. The great proportion of
the logs that come to this mill are towed in from other por-
tions of Miramichi Bay, a considerable amount coming down
the Tracadie River in Gloucester County. Senator Snowball
has cut no less than forty million feet of lumber in a single
year, this requiring the employment of about a thousand
men. This, of course, is a very exceptional cut, it being
estimated that the cut this year will not exceed twenty mil-
lion feet. Mr. Ernest Hutchinson, at Douglastown, on the
other side of the river, cut no less than ten million feet.
As Mr. Hutchinson informs me that an average of about
forty men are required to get out a million feet in a season,
this amount would involve the employment of no less than
four hundred men in the lumber woods, by this gentlemen
alone; and these are but two of the mill properties at the
mouth of the Miramichi River.

There is no be>tter way of forming some idea of the
number of men employed in the lumber woods in New
Brunswick in Winter, than to take a trip on some of the
main or branch lines of railway near lumbering sections,
during that part of the Fall wher. the men are gathering to go
into the woods. Nearly every wayside st;. . n furnished, at
least, a few. The trains are patrolled by h jes, each offer-
ing the special inducement that his company may give to the
men. I remember very well a trip from Tracadie around to
Bathurst, along the Gulf Shore and Caraquet Railway in
Gloucester County. Prospective lumbermen get in at every
station, and one portion of the single passenger car was
crowded with men; some were French, a few were Scandi-
navian, the majority were of British extraction; some were
sailors, some were fishermen and some were lumbermen by
profession, that being their steady employment in the
Winter, while in the Summer they shifted for themselves as
best they could; not a perfectly satisfactory way of living.
Others were farmers who took this method of making a little
extra money during the Winter season, and, as the men are
found, and as can be imagined, there is little temptation to
spend any considerable amount of money — the nearest store

tumtiA^thsimms

187

^ften being forty or fifty miles distant - they usually came
out m the Spring with a tidy little sum to their credit.

The lumber camp is one of the jolliest places on earth
to spend a moderate amount of time, though I cannot say
that I should care to live permanently under the conditions
there found. Everyone is good natured, and under the
influence of the clear, cold air of the winter, of tramping
round through the snow all day, and chopping, the appetites
are mvanably good, and the diet, which consists for the
mostpait of pork and beans, and tea, coffee and bread
never seems to cloy. The two most important personages
in a lumber camp are the cook and the fiddler; next comiug
the boss, and finally the men themselves. Though the fiddler
'IS one of these latter, and usually it so happens, of Acadian
extraction, hjs accomplishment commands the respect of
-.everybody, the boss and cook included, and no sooner is
supper over than the pipes are lighted, and amid the clouds
■of smoke, .s scraped out every variety of music that is not
included in the term classical; and the marvellous step
■dances that are executed by the light of the smoky camp
■lanterns, would turn Carmencita green with envy.

The lumber camps are solid log structures which are
•comfortable in the coldest weather, and what I have said
of the best game regions in the Province of New Brunswick
-applies to nearly the whole western section of the County of
Northumberland. Throughout one section of the County
■through the Great Lake regions, the moose and caribou
roamsupreme, and toagreat extent, unmolested. No doubt
there are little streamlets here which human eye has never
seen, and lakelets that have never borne the weight of a
birch bark canoe. Along the Big Sevogle River, on the
shores of Mullin's stream lake has fallen a mighty moose
Near Winigut and Waubigut, and on the barrens around the
shores of numerous little woodland lakes, in an a'most
untrodden wilderness, the wandering caribou has roamed a
step too far and his sprightly antlers have crashed thunder-
ing down through the undergrowth never to be raised a-ain
.on the proud head that bore them. Along the Tomogonops

188

Where little brooks wind their ways through mighty
forests, strays the red deer, fleeing like a golden shadow
before the hunter has even a trace of his whereabouts. But
the crowning sport of all lies practically on the boundary
line, where meet the two greater counties whose names are
indicative of the first meeting of the rulers of the sea, with
the then owners of the land, Northumberland and Resti-
gouche. This is the Bald Mountain big game region,
generally supposed to be the finest section of its area in the
Province; two lakes in the wilderness, at the head waters of
two rivers, the Nepisiquit and Tobique, the first flowing into
the Gulf of St Lawrence, the second into the Bay of Fundy.
Between them is a portage of only three miles ; the road ly-
ing between two wilderness hills. Bald Mountain and Twin
Mountain, south of the shores of Nictor Lake rises
another, and round the bases of all three, roams for the-
most part unmolested, the black bear. The best time
to obtain a shot at the formerly much dreaded bear,
though in reality, this animal is as much to be feared,
under ordinary conditions, as a well developed rabbit, is
during the season when the whole base of each hill is
covered with a mass of luscious, ripe blueberries. The
bears then roam through blueberry barren and hillsides, and
often can be seen from some distance working away briskly
gathering in food to supply the present wants and to lay up
fat for the coming winter.

Dr. Philip Cox once told me an amusing instance of the
timidity of the black bear once so common in New Bruns-
wick : It was in the Summer, and he and a friend were
fishing on the Squatook Lake. This year a species ot fish
mold had caused great mortality among the fishes in the lake
and they would float ashore in considerable quantities, dead
or dying. The bears, which are plentiful in that vicinity,
immediately appreciated the situation — for a bear is omnivor-
ous, and is as fond of an occasional fish diet as he is of berries
— and probably liking a change like ourselves, began to feed
on the fish wherever they could find them. Dr. Cox and his
friend had o"one ashore and were seated on the bank a short

■^4u,mima^

189

distance from the shore havuig a smoke, when they noticed
a bear approaching along the shore of the lake, now wading
in the water and now pushing his way through the tall grass,
splashing through the soft mud. He would occasionally stop,
and raising his nose, scent carefully for dead fish. We had
1 oted that there was a path around the shore left by the
numerous bears that had come on the same errand. The
bear was down the wind, and knowing that the sight of the
animal is, as a rule poor, we decided to get behind a log and
see how close he would come without noticing them. This
they accordingly did, crouching down side by side with their
•heads in full view over the log. The path led between the
log and the water, which was only four or five feet distant,
and the bear came snuffling along. As he was about to
pass them so closely that they could almost touch his side,
they both sprang up and whooped. The bear snorted,'
grunted and squealed ; all at once fell on his side in en-
deavouring to turn quickly in the slippery mud, covering
the two laughing spectators almost from head to foot"^
and by a few seconds afterward, had fled, squealing and
grunting, splashing through the water, and tearing through
the rushes along the shore of the lake. After he had reached
a safe distance, he took to the woods and was no more
seen. This recalls the never-to-be-forgotten incident de-
scribed by Nessmuk in "Woodcraft." The old man relates
how he sat on a log until a bear, which had been hunting for
beech nuts, in a more or less pre-occupied way, wandered
up to about ten feet from him; then leaping into the air,
with a Comanche war-whoop, he threw his, hat at the bear,'
which after falling over and squealing, retired in anything
but good order, much to the edification of^the man who never
had to lie to tell a good story. I, myself have had the
pleasure of chasing a small specimen of the same species
down a wide road. The race was a short one, and I was
soon left hopelessly behind.

Upsalquitch Lake lying in this county has already
been spoken of in connection with the river of that name.
Though i have never visited any of the three lakes, Nictor

190

Nepislquit or Upsalqu.tch, I believe that this latter
resembles, to a great extent, the other two. If the re-
ports given by the Indians are correct, Upsalquitch is a
finer moose and caribou ground than is the Bald Mountain
region. Both of hese places, however, can betaken in on the
one trip. Probably the most convenient way of doing this
woula be to leave Andover, on the St. John River,
and go up tne Tobique to Nictor Lake and the Bald
Mountain hunting ground. Here cross the three mile
portage to Nepisiquit Lake, and alter leaving here, down
the Nepisiquit seventeen miles t^o Portage Brook, and
thence to Upsalquitch Lake. About twenty-five miles south-
east of Bald Mountain hunting region, is to be found
another Bald Mountain in Northumberland County. This is
the highest mountain in New Brunswick, 2700 feet in heights
The first Bald Mountain on the shores of Nictor Lake,
though several rhountains in the Province bear this desig-
nation, is about 2550 feet in height, standing second in the
Province. The Northumberland hill, among the Indians
known as the Sagamock, like many of the notable physical
features of this Province, is connected with the weird,,
quaint, beautiful legends of Glooscap, a mythical Indian
diety, immortalized in the song, verse and story of Eastern'
Canada. The legends of Glooscap are interesting and well
worth studying, though they necessarily find no place in a
work of this sort.

It was mentioned earlier, in speaking of Gloucester
County, that large quantities of smelt, one ot the most
delicious and delicate fish inhabiting the Gulf of St. Lawrence
waters, each season run up the numerous harbors and inlets.
As soon as the ice Is strong enough to b.ar a man's weight
in the month of December, elaborate preparations are made
for catching these fish in large quantities. Nets with good
sized mouths and long trails are put down through long,
narrow slits cut in the ice, before each run of the tide, and
are not hauled again until the run has ceased; the number of
fish obtained in this way at times is almost unbelievablei
There is an instance recorded of a man getting no less than

191

8o barrels of fish at one haul of the^^^net. A barrel holds
about 200 pounds, so there are 10 barrels to the ton of 2000
pounds; the entire haul then, amounted to about el^'ht tons or
16,000 pounds. These smelt sell at three cents a pound to
the dealers, the price received for single haul amounting to
four hundred and eighty dollars, ($480). As far as I know
this is the record. To be very conserv?**ve let us suppose
that a man obtained only 500 pounds c* fish per day; at
three cents per pound this would net him /" -i.^n dollars ($15)
or about three pounds sterling.

When visiting Chatham, which is a great country "■?.• the
smelt fishing industry, one man informed me that, on the
previous day he had gotten two tons and a half of fish. In
speaking to Mr. W. S. Loggie, one of the principal shippers
in that district, he informed me that the price varied between
two and three cents a pound. This gentleman also told me
that he shipped between eight hundred and one thonsand
tons per season. This will give an excellent idea of the ex-
tent of the industry.

The chief market is found at present in the United
States, but the high duty which the Americans have put on,
makes the industry of much less value than it would other-
wise be. In the bay around Newcastle and Chatham, there
are between three and four hundred men employed in smelt
fishing during the season. Along through the first of the
season, the men are allowed farther up into the Miramichi
River, but after New Years the law requires that they move
down stream beyond Chatham, so as not to interfere with
the spawning of the striped bass. About this period the ice
becomes very much thicker than earlier, and the weather
much colder. Without shelter, smelt fishing through the
ice, with the cold Winter wind sweeping across the snowy
surface for miles, necessarily is found to be a very cold
operation. To obviate this difficulty, the fishermen build
small shanties in which they place stoves. They are drag-
ged out on the ice to wherever the net is to be placed, and
it is one of the sights of the season to see the great white
stretches of ice below Chatham, dotted with shanties for miles.

liil

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192

KENT COUNTY.

u r

The County of Kent, situated north of Westmorland
and Queens, and south ot Northumberland, is washed on the
east by the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It has an
area of i, 149,000 acres. The County overlies the carbonifer-
ous formation, and throu^'hout its western section, is a
great forest region, and contains but few settlements.

The agricultural districts lie, as is usual with the east-
ern slope counties, along the shores of the Gult. The chief
coast waters are Kouchibouguac Bay on the north, and the
various harbours further south. The finest of these harbours
are those of Richibucto and Buctouche, at the moulhs of the
rivers of the same ii'ame.

The land in Western Kent, covered to a great extent
with spruce, is perhaps the poorest for farming purposes to
be found in the Province: but the eastern portion of the
county shows a very diflFere!it condition of things. As
typical an agricultural section as can be found here is in the
vicinity of Richibucto and Kingston, throughout the lower
stretcher; of the valley of St. Nicholas river. The same type
of farming land as is to be found along the shores of
Gloucester and Northumberland Counties, exist here.

Practically all that is said of Northumberland County, as
far as its general characteristics are concerned, may be ap-
plied to Kent. It has no harbour which is to be compared
with that of Chatham; the two finest being Richibucto
and Buctouche. Most of the coast is enclosed in beaches,
forming miles and miles of continuous break water from
a mile to three miles from the shore. These beaches
or bars form broad lagoons as in the case of Gloucester
County, and the Tabusintac in Northumberland County,
which form excellent harbours for small craft. There is not,
however, any great depth of water throughout most oi them.
In coiv, ,on vvitli the lagoons of Northumberland and

193

Gloucester Counties, those of Kent, especially in Kouchi-
bou^'HC Bay, are fine shooting grounds, brant and geese
being obtained in large quantities every year.

The chief rivers are the Kouchibouguac, the Kouchi-
bouguacis, Aldoujine, the St. Nicholas (into which empties
the Richibucto) the Buctouche and Cocagn^. Along the
estuaries of each of these streams are situated fine farms and
mill properties for a considerable distance west.

The same remarks relative to the convenience with
which various marine fertilizers may be obtained that
were applied to the whole eastern slope, may be ap-
plied here, and the lands show the result in many cases of
careful farming. There are, however, throughout Eastern
Kent County, too many farms that are operated unscientific-
ally, and with but second rate results. The farm of Father
Michaud.of B ictouche, gives a fair idea of what can be done
in wheat raising throughout this section. Here is situated
one of the roller mills which have done such fine work
throughout the Province in the lastyear or so. The Govern-
ment has done much to encourage the establishment of these
mills, the result being that a great deal of money, which
formerly went out of the country in buying flour from the
West, has been kept in the Province, and the amount of
flour from home-grown wheat that is now manufactured in
New Brunswick, is large and rapidly increasing. Varieties
are coming into prominence, which have been the result of
careful experimenting as far as hybridization is concerned;
the result being that the tendency to rust has been, to a
great extent, eliminated, and the wheat accustomed as
thoroughly as possible to the climate of New Brunswick.

Though the Province can never pretend to be a wheat-
producing country, when compared with the land further
west, where the great prairies are so well adapted to the
growth of that cereal in large quantities, still there is no
reason why it should not produce sufficient for its own con-
sumption, and perhaps a considerable amount to export, if
it can do so at prices comparing with those of the Western
product.

194

The fishing industry of Kent County is an important
one, and employs probably one thousand men. Great quanti-
ties of herring-, cod.gaspereaux, mack -el, salmon and lobster
are obtained. As sections of the county, notably Buctouche,
produce considerable quantities of oysters, the oyster beds
off the Buctouche bar are famous far and wide, and in flavor
are unexcelled. These are as a rule obtained in limited
quantities, and there is a great demand for them. Oysters
are to be found practically everywhere along the Gulf Shore
in large or small quantities, according to the locality, but
nowhere finer than in Kent County.

Kent is the site of a lumber industry which is not to be
despised; shipping directly from the excellent harbors. The
Intercolonial runs through Kent County west of the centre
of the county from north to south. It is connected with
Richibucto at Kent Junction by the Kent Northern Railway.
What has been said;relative to the various kinds of game to
be found in Northumberland County, applies equally well ^o
Kent. The various rivers teem with fish, and many fine
hauls of trout have been taken from the numerous streams
in the county.

WESTMORLAND AND ALBERT COUNTIES.

The Counties of Westmorland and Albert are situated in
the extreme southeastern portion of the Province of New
Brunswick. The area of Westmorland County, according to
Mr. Chas. H. Lugrin, is 887,300 acres, while that of Albert is
435,000 acres; the former having about twice the area of the
latter county. Westmorland County has two distinct types
of sea coast, more distinct, with the exception of the neigh-
bouring County of Cumberland, in Nova Scotia, than are the
coasts of any other single section of country in the world.
The eastern shore of Westmorland County is washed by the
vyaters of Northumberland Straits, a portion of the great
Gulf ot St. Lawrence, while to the southward and westward
of the County, the Bay of Fun.1y rushes in and out of its

nwrtT i ii i i MBtltAlM

WHiH

195

terminal bays with greater rapidity than does any tide in the
world. The rise and fall of tide in Bale Verte, on the Gulf
of St. Lawrence side is from four to six feet, while only
fifteen miles across the Isthmus of Chignecto, the difference
between high and low water is no less than fifty feet, this
being the greatest tidal depth in the world. To the north,
Westmorland County abuts directly on Kent County; on the
west on Kings, Queens and Albert; on the south, Albert
County, the Bay of Fundy, and Cumberland County, Nova
Scotia.

Westmorland is one of th^ finest farming Counties in
the Province of New Brunswick. The whole eastern portion
of the County from Shediac Harbor in the north, down past
Cape Tormentine and around into Bale Verte, comes under
what I have classified as the eastern slope of the Province.
It is drained by numerous rivers, none of which, however,
are large, the most important being the Shediac River, the
Aboushagan and the Gaspereaux. The western portion of
the County is drained on the extreme west by the Canaan^
River which flows into the River St. John through the
Washademoak Lake, the Petitcodiac River and its tributa-
ries, the greater portion of this river forming the boundary
line between Westmorland and Albert Counties, and the
Memramcook River; the last two emptying into Shepody
Bay at Dorchester, the shiretown of the County. The
Tantramar River, the only other river ot importance,
flows through the famous marsh of that name for some
twenty-five or thirty miles. At the 'head waters of this river
and along its course, there is a considerable number of
marshy lakes which have long been famous for the Dusky
Duck and Snipe shooting which is to be found throughout
that region. As the two sides of Westmorland County are
so diff'erent, so is there a decided diff"erence in the methods
of farming, and all that has been said of the eastern slope of
the Province holds true in the case of eastern Westmorland
County. There are a great many excellent farms, the major-
ity of which could be very much improved by intelligent
work. It is a country of inlets, creeks, lowlands and.

196

marshes, and of white sand dunes blown up by the fresh
breezes of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The harbors are, to a
great extent, shallow, that of Shediac, in the extreme north-
ern portion of the county, being the finest; Point du Chene,
with its deep water wharves, which are situated here, being,
the Gulf of St. Lawrence terminus of the Intercolonial Rail-
way of Canada. From here, on the arrival of passenger
trains from the west, sail a line of steamships to Summerside,
in the smallest ot the provinces of Canada, "the garden of
the Gulf," Prince Edward Island. Along this eastern slope,
the uplands (the marshes are irregular and of inconsiderable
area) is of excellent quality, and two varieties of fertilizer of
great value are to be obtained for the hauling. One is
rnussel mud, and the other consists of the enormous quanti-
ties of different varieties ot seaweed, which are thrown
up along the shore. This is true of the whole eastern
shore of Westmorland! County. In the southern portion
of the county, that washed by the head waters of
the Bay of Fundy, Shepody Bay and Cumberland Basin,
with their tributary rivers, entirely different conditions are to
be met with. Here great stretches of marsh, or more
properly dike-land, for they are not marshes in the ordinary
acceptance of the term, are to be found. A marsh as gen-
erally understood, refers more especially to a wet ill-drained
area along the edge of a river, lake or sea shore, on which
the quality of hay is far from the best, and which are con-
sidered anything but desirable or valuable properties.

The so called marsh land of Westmorland and Albert
Counties, and of the adjoining County of Cumberland,
which has been previously described, are in some respects the
tnost wonderfully fertile farming lands in the world, and for
their origin and fertility are dependent entirely upon that
peculiar body of water, the Bay ot Fundy. As a natural
fertilizer in the southern section of the country, instead of
the black mussel mud of the Gulf shore, the red clayey silt
which forms the resistent soil of the dike-lands, and is
locally known as marsh mud, is carted in large quantities on
to the uplands, and seems to have a more lasting effect than

197

any other manure, natural or artificial, yet known. Mr.
Lug-rin in his hand-book on New Brunswick, published by
authority of the Gavernment in i S86, gives an instance of a
man in Harvey, Albert County, who manured an upland field
with marsh mud; applying 240 loads of mud to a four acre
field. The field was so run out when he obtained it, that it
only produced two tons of poor weedy hay. It took two men
and a team twelve days to apply the coating of mud during the
winter, and the next summer he cut from the same field
twelve tons of flrst-class marketable hay. From that time un-
til the book was published, the field had been growing heavy
crops, and the line of demarkation between it and the sur-
rounding fields was visible, after it had been cropped for
seventeen years without further manuring. Another farmer
gave Mr. Lugrin the following instance of the remarkable
effects produced by this natural fertilizer which costs nothing
but the labour of hauling. The man in question broke up
an acre and a half of upland and sowed it with oats; from
this he obtained twenty bushel. In the Winter following he
spread upon the field one nundred and fifty loads of marsh
mud, and the following Spring he sowed it again with oats.
The yield this time was one hundred and forty bushels.
Very many instances of this sort can be cited, and to any
farmer who knows his business, and the comparative value of
fertilizers, these facts will come home strongly. It amounts
to this, that if a farmer has an upland farm situated con.
veniently for obtaining marsh mud, he can manure it to his
heart's content for the cost of the labour required in hauling
the manure.

This marsh mud can not only be obtained around the
shores of the Bay, but in every creek and river that is strong-
ly affected by its wonderful tides. The two most remarkable
of these rivers are indeed wonderful sights to any one not
acquainted with the tides of the Bay of Fundy. These are
the Memramcook and Petitcodiac before mentioned. The
Memramcook, very much the narrower of the two streams,
and very much shorter river, lies wholly within Westmor-

land Countv. and thr

fly a little over twenty

198

miles in length is navigable at high tide for large
vessels through almost half its entire course. If our
first sight of the remarkable stream happens to be when
the tide is in, and we see it as it winds through the
marsh somewhere between Dorchester at its mouth and upper
Dorchester, between four and five miles up stream, we will
note that it is a wide, placid looking river, the waters of
which are rendered almost entirely opaque by the great
quantity of red silt or mud held in suspension. The water
throughout the headwaters of the Bay of Fundy is charac-
terized by its comparatively brilliant, brownish red colour.
We see no particular current in the river, especially if we
arrive practically at high water. If we stay but a little while,
however, a remarkable change becomes apparent in an
almost increditably short time; the river which before was
so placid, quickly changes into a boiling, eddying, swift-
flowing stream, which rushes outward, sinking in level
rapidly. As it goes it swirls past every obstruction, per-
haps cutting under it and carrying it along with it. If we
return four or five hours afterwards, the sight which meets
our eyes, is one which will always be remembered by
anyone who has not been fortunate enough to have before
witnessed the vagaries of the Bay of Fundy. Where, but a
few hours before there was a broad stretch of water, now
nothing is left but long, furrowed, shining, slippery banks
running down on each side; sloping to where a diminutive
creek flows bubbling along toward the great bay below, and
this is all that remains of the Memramcook River. An hour
or two later, and the stream will be rushing in as swiftly as
a little while before it vi^as rushing out, and by the time the
twelve hours has elapsed, the river will be again deep enough
to float the largest warships in the British Navy, without
danger of their touching ground.

Thus, the inhabitants at the headwaters ol the Bay
of Fundy have mile upon mile of natural dry dock at their dis-
posal, and when a vessel needs to have some work done on
her bottom, it is only necessary that she be towed to some
convenient creek on the sloping beds of which she will

199

rest comfortably as the tide goes down, and then listed
suitably.

What we have said of the Memramcook River, applies
also to the Petitcodiac, a rtream which is, however, fully
four times as long as the first one described, the result beino-
that It has a very considerable deeper channel throughout its
lower stretches at low tide. The Petitcodiac River possesses
one of the finest examples of a rare physiographical pheno-
menon that is to be found in the world. Following the river
up from Its mouth, we find that it runs uniformly in a north-
westerly direction until it reaches the city of Moncton, where
It bends sharply until we see that its line of flow comes from
a httle south of west. On account of this peculiarity, the
c.ty of Moncton, before being named in honor of Lord
Monkton, was known as The Bend. The river narrows
uniformly from its mouth to Moncton and some distance
above, and the tide which rushes up Shepody Bay is received
in the open mouth and becomes more and more compressed
as the tidal wave continues up river.

By the time Moncton is reached, this wave has culmina-
ted in what is known as a bore, and as the forerunner of the
incoming tide rushes up stream in a wave extending across
the river, and during spring tides, sometimes attaining a
height at Moncton, of seven or eight feet. This height I
calculated personally, and cannot vouch for its correct-
ness, as the instruments at hand were exceedingly crude
and were washed away before the observation was com-
pleted The beginning of the bore can sometimes be
noticed as far down stream as Stony Creek, seven miles
below Moncton, while it can be traced up stream at times
as far as Turtle Creek, some eight miles above that city.
The height of the bore varies tremendously between neap
and spring tides.

This phenomenon is onewhich always forms an attraction

for the stranger, and there are but few cases of disappointed

s.ght-seers. Probably the most satisfactory time to see the

bore IS at full moon, when it is due at Moncton between nine

-and ten o'clock. The bore "

en at its height, and the

200

majorty of people who prefer getting the first impressions of
the phenomenon by moonlight, begin to crowd the wharves
by between eight and nine. The exact time of the arrival
of the so-called wave is apparently somewhat of an uncer-
tainty; no doubt it is retarded or accelerated by the direction
and force of the wind in the bay below.

Some little time after nine, when every eye is turned in
a H ^'-eaiiteriy direction toward the bend around which the
bv iltimate'y to come, a low rumbling roar is heard

whi . gradually increases, and gives one unaccustomed to
the sound, a sense of insecurity. It grows louder and.
louder, hardly sounding like the movement of water, and in'
a little while the waiters see a long, low, white wall of foam
rush into the silver path of the moon, and stretching from
bank to bank, swing majestically around the curve in the
river, covering the thousands of acres of bare, glinting
mud-flats, as it foams and roars toward the wharf
on which the spectators are standing. At first sight
its motion does not seem to be especially rapid, but as
it rushes near enough for one to see the wavelets that
are thrown up on its crest, the realization of the distance
which it has travelled in such a remarkably short time, comes
home, and again the sense of insecurity presents itself with,
redoubled strength. The mis-named wave swings its right
flank in, until in the midst o'i the roar you hear the splash
as the troubled waters strike the base of the wharf on which
you are standing, and looking athwart the stream you see
the long, white, slightly curving front that moves on like a
dozen squadrons of cavalry in line. In an instant it has
passed, and behind it comes a boiling, seething flood of
brown water, thick with the mud that has been washed from
the flats in the up stream progress of the bore. In a minute
or two the water has increased considerably in body, and the
current flows more quietly though hardly less swiftly. An
hour sees a remarkable change in the river, and two hours
and a half after the bore has past, over the flats where it
rushed lies water enough to float the largest oceaa
steamer.

201

Thus we have a tide which tal<es but between two and
three hours to rise a aistance of thirty odd feet, while it
occupies nine hours and some odd minutes in reaching low
water level again. It runs out until met by the incoming
bore There is slack water at high tide for a little while,
and then the outward rush begins, which is far more gradual
than IS the inward one.

In navigating the Petitcodiac River, as is the case, for
that matter, with all the tributaries of the upper Bay of
Fundy, very peculiar conditions obtain. The tide always has
to be consulted, as the speed of the current is so great
that even .f a steamer were powerful enough to make
her way against it readily, it would be very poor economy,
and on the other hand, when she takes advantage of it the
most remarkable runs are made, a ste- tier of but ordinary
speed makmg her twenty knots an hour without difficulty
As far as time tables are concerned, these conditions are
necessarily not an advantage, but in the case of either
steamer or sailing vessel whose ultimate desire is to get to
Its destination, the high speed of the tidal flow cannot be
considered an unmixed evil. The tides are so thoroughly
understood by the men who navigate these waters, that it is
only very rarely that an accident occurs. The currents
themselves have eroded .nd carried away practically every
dangerous reef about the headwaters of the bay, and thus
Shepody Bay, Cumberland Basin and Minas Basin in Nova
bcotia are nothing but vast harbours.

Distribution of Population.

Along the Gulf of St. Lawrence coast are scattered a
considerable number of small towns and villages, such as
Barachois, Aboushagan, Cape Bald, Shemogue, which pos-
sesses an excellent harbour famed for its ovster beds. Bay-
field and so forth. Port Elgin and Bale Verte are both
somewhat larger places; the former possessing a fine woollen

202

mill, and both are near the best lumber section of Westmor-
land County. The town of Sackville is situated on the
upland that rises from the northern edg-e of the Tantramar
marsh, while ten miles from it, almost directly west across
the base of Cape Meranguin, lies Dorchester, the shiretown
of the County. SackviHe though a representative farming
centre, is the site of several industries of other kinds. Here
among other manufactories is situated the Fawcett foundry.
Sackville is also the site of the University of Mount Allison
College.

From this town running eastward to the extreme point
of Cape Tormentine runs the New Brunswick and Prince
Edward Island Railway. At the point where the railway
terminates, the distance across the Straits of Northumber-
land to Prince Edward Island is but nine miles. Dorchester,
as is also the case with Sackville, was the seat of a very
extensive ship-building trade, but wooden shipping has
declined, and with it has declined the beautiful little town
that was once the pride ot Westmorland County. It stands
in one of the finest situations in the Province, just at the
mouth of the Memramcook Valley. Built upon a rock, it is
surrounded by dike-lands, which form here as elsewhere, one
of the chief sources of wealth to its farmers. It cannot be
credited that a town as well situated agriculturally as is
Dorchester, and having as fine a harbour, its wharves being
washed by the tide of Shepody Bay itself, can much longer
remain in such an unprogressive condition, as has formerly
been the case. Independent of the agricultun-'l changes that
are being so rapidly felt throughout the whole x^rovince, the
awakening has already begun. Not far from the village a
copper mine, which before ha^ been worked in but a de-
sultory manner, has been taken hold of with a will, and now
thousands of tons of ore are being turned out by the large
number of men ther employed.

Three miles above Dorchester in the Memramcook val-
ley is situated the small village of Upper Dorchester, also on
the line of the Intercolonial Railway, while eight miles above
the shiretown is Memramcook, a considerable village of

203
which a lar^e number of the inhabitants are ot French
J seTh's Cot" ''''T '^'°^ ^—ook is situa::d

Shediac is a beautiful little town which, of late years
has become a great favourite as a watering olace it '
s. uated on a harbour of the same na^.Ti port P^in du
Chene, at the mouth of the harbour iavinrbefore befn
mentioned as the Gulf of Q^ t 'dving oetore been

termlon.-oi d •, '^*- Law'-ence terminal of the In-

tercolonial Railway. Petitcodiac and Salisbury the mo^t
.mportant towns in the Western portion of thT'countyrare

ranidl "'"^ centres and both are advancing, but notTs
rapidly as one would wish to see.

MONCTON.

In the City of Moncton, next in size fo Qf i u

siderable share of its importance from this fact the "'I
employes and their families makinp- ,,n T '""^

the ponulation R. -^ """kmg up a large proportion of

which ar afforded T "" ""="*" ''''""'^J' f^^'itie

Te iTn , r 1 ' "'^' '"'"« "' ■''' J™'^'ion between

which :„:: s th„ •:-"'°"'^' '"•"-^^ """ "•= "--^
cXrru:;r:ri;rtrrt"^ "-'- ^^^

are Sunny Brae and Lewtuie '""'°"""' ^"""'"^

pe.it:r tiru" Tpird^ Tern- '^^
rrcra:rdrj:!:::,.-^--J^-^^^^^^^^^^

"-■ 'f^^^-ted, ana give the city a modern

204

appearance. To the north He a number of moderate sized
settlements, among which are Scotch settlement and Irish-
town.

Four or five miles down the Petitcodiac valley, on the
west side, is situated Fox Creek, while directly across the
river in the neighbouring county, lies Lower Coverdale. By
rail it is but seventeen miles from Moncton to Shediac on
Northumberland Straits, and as the city is inclined to be
rather warm in Summer, many of the residents have their
summer houses along the shores of the beautiful bay that
forms he harbour of that prettly little town. Moncton is
the site of a number of manufacturing industries, the chief
among which is indicated by the presence ot a large cotton
factory at the lower end of the city. This industry alone
gives employment to five hundred hands.

The fisheries at the head waters of the Bay of Fundy
are of great value, large numbers of shad which are generally
conceded to be unequalled, lue no doc'bt to the rich food
found in t.-^^ muddy waters of that portion of the bay, are
obtained by the drift net method boats drifting up and down
with the tide attached to one end of a long flat net. On
account of the high tides here, another peculiar method of
fishing can be resorted to. It has so far, however, been
carried on only in a desultory manner, in each case, however,
giving excellent returns. At low water when the tide is
perhaps two miles away from high water mark, some quick
bed that winds its way up through the flats is chosen, using
\t as a centre, and long fences are built running diagonally
In towards the mainland, forming an obtuse angle opening
inward; the apex of this V is in the centre of the creek. The
fence constructed of spruce boughs is usually eight or nine
feet high in the centre, tapering to about the height of four
feet at the ends. Vhese weirs as they are called, are usually
ibuilt by ' veral men, six or seven. The whole take their
turns as the tides come around, each man having the catch
of every, say, seventh tide. The fish come over and around
the ends of this fence, as the tide rises, and as it falls, and
they endeavor to go out with it they are caught in the wings

M'i'iii iiiia— BMi

■MHi

f 'III

206

and keepins: close tc the bottom swim down towards the
apex of the V. before they know that they are entrapped-^
the fence bemg a very long affair, each wing perhaps being a
quarter of a m.le-the tide has fallen until the top o^ the
we.r ,s above the water and as it sinks lower anS lo.er
a great number of Hsh become huddled into the
creek beu ,, ,he point of junction of the two fences
A cart .s now taken out and filled with the fish that have
been trapped w.th so littie labor, great quantities being
^ken m th.s way. In c.e of the weirs I have seen at onci
four or five sturgeon, perhaps six or seven feet in length,
a few salmon, perhaps a half a dozen, a considerably lafge;
number of shad, aggregating possibly three or four dozen of
fish or m some cases upwards of a hundred, a great quantity
of hernng and gaspereaux, often to be measured by the
barrel and a multitude of smelt, tom cods and other small
try. Among these are to be found a very large number of
flounders, one of the most delicious of all sea fish, closely
esemb, the English sole and here but very little appr'

t?m c;d T "'"'"' '"" ''^^^ '^^'^ ^°^^^h- -th smelt,
tom cods and sturgeon taken by the farmers and used as

manure on their lands. The result on the land was

necessarily very fine, but it was one of the worst types of

unrntentional waste. I have several times taken a half

bushel basket down to a weir when the proprietor was on

h.s way to get a cart load offish, ^nd filled it with flounders

and smelt and other fish by ...ply putting them into the

ALBERT COUNTY.

Albert County lying to the westward and southward of
Westmorland County, is about one-half the size of the latter
and not by any means as well developed. Its innumerable
small nvers and streams empty into the Bay of Fundy
or ,ts tnbutanes, the Petitcodiac River forming two-thirds of

the boundary hne between Albert and Wos^rr^r'^-H ^ •

The most important town in Albert is Hillsborough, situated

.r":

no6

about seven miles nbove the mouth of the Petitcodlac. Hills-
borough lies on a slope on the western side of the Petitcodiac,
opposite the village of Beliveau in Westmorland County,
where is situated one of the finest stone quarries of the kind
to be found. As is the case with most of the towns we meet
with throughout the Maritime Provinces, Hillsborough is a
farming centre, but it is more than this, a short distance be-
hind the town are to be found magnificent gypsum quarries,
and the quality of plaster turned from these mines is unsur-
passed. But some three or four miles south of the town are
situated the world-famous Albert mines, where once in great
quantities was found a mineral peculiar to that region, about
which geologists, mineralogists and miners all alike were
puzzled. Some called it an asphalt, some a bitumen, and
some insisted that the product was nothing but a petroleum
oil, which had been rid of many of its volatile products
through the process of distillation. The fact remains that a
large seam of this peculiar product was worked for a con-
siderable period, finding a ready market at almost ridiculous
prices for a coal, and finally the seam petered out, and, as
the dip was very heavy, and the depth which had been at-
tained, very considerable, it was no longer profitable to work
it, and the Albert mine closed down.

This can be mentioned as but one of the instances of the
occurrence of petroleum products throughout this Eastern
section of New Brunswick, if indeed they were such.
Throughout various portions of Westmorland County, as
well as through Albert and Kent Counties, are to be found
considerable and very frequent out crop of bituminous shale.
In some portions of Westmorland County, especially near
Memramcook, quantities of crude petroleum have been
obtained from wells bored either for that or some other
purpose. None of the counties have been thoroughly ex-
plored with regard to this matter, until within the last year
or so, when the Government has taken the matter in hand,
and now has drills at work, with the intention of discovering
the possibilities of finding petroleum in large quantities.
Every tendency as far as the formation is concerned, would

207

lead one to suppose that it is, at least. extren.o»y probable
that oil will here be found in paying quantities.

Just outside the mouth of the Petitcodiac River, Is
situated the beautiful village of Hopewell Cape, the shire-
town of the county. This is but twenty-four miles from
Moncton by river, and. as in the case of Hillsborough, is on
the hne of Albert Railway. It lies on a slight slope
across Shepody Bay. toward Dorchester, while behind it
nses Hopewell Hill. Some distance farther down the coast,
four m.les or so from the village, Shepody Mountain rises
to a height of a thousand feet, and from its top can
be obtained what is undoubtedly the finest view which
can be found by the sight-seer in the southeastern portion
of the Province. To the north stretches the valley of the
Petitcodiac River with the smoke that hangs over Monc-
ton m the distance. The view of Hopewell Cape is hidden
by the intervening hills, but beyond lie the mouths of
the two nvers, with Dorchester nearly twelve miles distant
showing up to advantage. Along to the eastward lies the low
rocky shore of Cape Meranquin. while across the two ex-
treme head waters of the Bay of Fundy, Shepody Bay and
Cumberland Basin can be seen the town of Amherst twenty
odd miles away. To the southward the Bay of Fundv
Itself stretches out to Cape Enrage, the shore of Nova Scotia
looming blue in the distance. To the westward of the moun-
tain, the forest hides the numerous little settlements, and to
the eye it seems as if there stretched an unbroken wilderness
to the horizon.

Between the mountain and the village lies Cape Demoi-
selle, where are situated the famous Hopewell Cape rocks,
the high cape being cut off sharply by the fierce tides of the
bay, which have modelled the rocky face into a thousand and
one quaint forms, which have been admired by travellers
ever siince the region was known. Here quaint archways
are cat sometimes so small that a man can hardly crawl
through the opening, at others, large enough for a load of
hay to go through untouched. Now a deep cave can be
followed in by the light of a smoky flickering birch bark

1 I ■

I. .:iJ.]

208

torch for some distance. The largest of these caves, the
Devil's Den. is popularly supposed to run in a mile or so,
and to end somewhere in the bowels of the earth, under
Shepody mountain. I explored the place, about which I had
heard so much, by the light of a birch bark torch, which
went out atter I had crawled perhaps twenty-five feet through
a low arched gallery, and I was left to imagine the rest. An
experience somewhat similar to this, probably in some fertile
imagination, gave rise to the stories relative to the tremend-
ous depth ot the cave.

Sometimes the tide cuts entirely around some portion of
the cliff more dense than the surrounding stone, and leaves
it standing out, larger above, and with a rounded neck below.
The frost and rains may, with their weathering, supply
features perhaps very grotesque or perhaps very hard to
trace. A little bit of soil will nestle in some crevice near the
top of the rock; and in this will grow one or two spruce
trees seiving for plumes in the cap, and the rough resem-
blance to a human head and neck will be complete. There
are a thousand variations in the forms taken on by these
quaint stones, and one can well spend a day in admiring the
variety and beauty of this novel type of landscape. Tech-
nically these rocks stand among the finest types of one class
of tidal erosion in the world.

Farther down the shore are situated Riverside, Harvey
and Albert, the latter place being the home of the present
Lieutenant-Governor of the Province, Hon. A. R. McClelan,
while below Cape Enrage on the west side of Salisbury Bay
and at the mouth of the Upper Salmon River, lies the little
town of Alma, one of the most beautiful situitions in the
county.

Those already mentioned are the most important towns
and villages on the east side of the county, while in the west
section, Elgin, connected with the Intercolonial Railway by
the Elgin branch, running to Petitcodiar, is a busy little
rural town

209

DESCRIPTION OF TANTRAMAR AND OTHER MARSHES IN.
THE REGION OF THE BAY OF FUNDY.

It would be difficult, if not impossible, for anyone not
acquainted with a region of the type of that surrounding the
Bay of Fundy, or for that matter, with the Bay of Fundy
itself,to form any conception ot what this typical dike-land or
so-called marsh, which surrounds the extreme headwaters of
that peculiar body of water, could be like.

To the Bay of Fundy and its peculiarities, the Tantra-
mar marsh, so-called, and the other marshes like it, but of
less extent, owe their origin.

The Bay of Fundy is a long arm of the sea, extending
^ for 150 odd miles in a northeasterly direction, between New

Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and narrowing from a breadth
of some 70 miles at its mouth, to only two or three miles at
its extreme headwaters. The shores of the Bay are compar-
atively smooth, the only indentations being the proportion-
ately small mouths of the well formed harbours or inlets,,
thus the tidal wave of the North Atlantic is received in an
open mouth which narrows gradually, running towards the
head, and finally the tidal wave, which at first was low,,
and of great extent is heaped up into a tide that is unequalled
in any part of the world.

The height of this tide culminates in Shepody Bay, at
the point where the mouths of the Petitcodiac and Mcmram-
cook rivers converge to their junction. At the point between
these rivers, the tide has a rise and fall of about 50 feet, and
a few miles below this, at Buck's Flats, the distance between
the extreme high and low water marks is about three miles.
It is safe to say that nowhere in tlje world is this distance
equalled.

During the spring tides, the tide in this bay, as in other
cases, rises considerably above Its average high water leveL
In this instance, of course, the difference is very much more

210

t!l!

marked than would be the case if the rise and fall were of
the ordinary type— from four to six feet. The result is that
there are vast stretches of flat country, which, by the deposit
of silt during the spring tides, have been raised above the
level of ordinary high water mark.

It can be readily seen that by closing out the sea, by the
use of sea-walls, or dikes as they are here called, which are
built of sufficient height to keep out this spring tide which
may have a height three, four or even six feet greater than
the average, it is possible to convert the vast flats, which are
subject to the inroads of the sea during spring tides, into
comparatively dry plains, to which the sea may find its way,
only from the breaking of the dikes, or when some special
gap is opened for its ingress. The closing off" of these
marshes from the sea brings about a material result. The
land is thus freed; from salt, and, as it is naturally very
fertile, is then rid from the coarse salt hay, which originally
grew upon it, and which is very readily replaced by better
qualities of so-called English hays, such as Timothy, Couch,
Browntop, etc. In a peculiar manner, this land is self-sus-
taining, for the original silt is so productive of heavy growths
of hays and grains, that no other manure is needed; and the
only thing necessary to cover this land with the desirable
coating of silt, when the other is run out is, in the fall, after
the crops have been gathered, to open a way by which the
sea may flow over the dike-lands, during the spring tides in
winter, and deposits a fresh layer of the life-giving soil.

The greatest amount of labor, in connection with these
marshes, is that entailed in constructing the sea wall to
protect them along the sea front and the banks of the numer-
ous creeks. These creeks are simply the estuaries of streams
which flow down from the mainland, and after a long
winding journey, course out through the flat dike lands into
.'he open sea.

The other less onerous labor, in connection with making
these marshes fertile, is that required in the draining. On
account of their extreme flatness, and the lack of porosity of

211

their soil, the dike lands have to be carefully and systematic-
ally drained to prevent the possibility of surface water
remaining for any length of time in the position to which it
may flow. The drains are made at right angles to each
other, sometimes as much as four feet in depth and very
narrow; these lead into larger main drains, which are finally
conducted into some convenient creek bed, thence out to the
dikes and through the dikes to the sea.

If an opening were left in the dike, of course, the sea
could as readily flow in as could the surface water flow out;
to obviate this a specially constructed aboideau or sluiceway
has to be devised with a swinging valve gate, .which will
admit of the out-flow of surface water, but which will im-
mediately close when the tide backs up against it.

The silt of which these marshes are formed, is of a
brownish red color, of a clayey constituency, and is deposited
to a very considerable depth some distance from the uplands.
Owing to the presence of iron salts, and to their different
stages of oxidation, the clay presents a considerable diversity
in color in different situations.

It may be said however, that all alike is wonderfully
fertile, and on account of the ease of cultivation, the lack of
any expenditure necessary in maintaining these dike-lands
and keeping the dikes and ditches in repair, when coupled
with the enormous fertility, necessarily renders these lands a
very valuable possession to any farmer.

Suppose that during some particular winter, the water is
let in on some portion of marsh to deposit its coat of silt. In
the early Spring, no sooner would the breach in the dike made
for the purpose of letting in the water have been closed up
or the gate of the aboideau, if that were the method em-
ployed, dropped, than a crop of coarse salt hay would spring
up with tremendous rapidity of growth, clothing, in a few
days, the miles and miles of level brown flats, with a coat of
the greenest verdure under the sun. During the first season,
after the water has been admitted, the crop would be a com-
paratively poor one of salt hay, due to the large amount o*"
saline elements remaining in the marsh in that season, and

212

not thoroughly eradicate until th. next year. The following-
Summer, however, the newly-manured dike-lands would
produce magn.ficent crops of the best quality of English hay.
Thts W.11 contmue year after year until perhaps six or seven
years varymg with the quality of the marsh, have elapsed.
Then the crop of English hay becomes poor, and tor four or

crops of broad, eaf hay. This hay often attains an average
height of from four and a half to five feet, while some of the
blades may attain to a height of six, seven or even eight
teet. It is a very heavy grass of excellent quality.

of .Jp • ^'^?T °^ ''" '^' '^"^^-^^"ds at the head waters
of the Bay of Fundy. and perhaps the most tvpical of them
all, IS what .s generally known as the Tant'ramar marsh,
famous both from its agricultural and literary aspect.
This beautiful stretch of hay land is situated to the
south and east of SackviUe, between that village and the
boundary hne between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. It
extends, n one dVection, without interruption, for 131^ miles
and vanes inwidth from four toeight miles. This is the largest
unmterrupted area of dike land in the Maritime Provinces:
another one, almost equally large, is situated on the Nova
Scotia side, near the town of Amherst in that Province.

The sight on the Tantramar marsh, during the later
period of the summer, near the time fbr harvesting English
hay, ,s one that has but to be seen to be remembered. On
the road between Amherst and SackviUe, which traverses the
marsh, and which is as level as a floor, one can see to the
honzon. on either side, nothing but a vast plain of waving
hay. From your feet stretch for mile after mile this enorm-
ous level sea of grass, undulating under the influence of the
breeze that is practically always blowing from the Bay of
Fundy, fresh and clear, across these great uninterrupted
stretches. Here and there run the higher green ridges
where the dikes are to be traced, while on every hand are
seen the barns which are soon to hold the crops that are
now waving before you.

213

Later in the year (in Autumn) the great hay-slacks— for
the barns are incapable of holding the enormous amount of
hay which IS grown on these wonderful self-sustaining
marshes— form a prominent and quaint feature of the land-
scape.

The average price of dike-land in this region, varies
from one hundred ($ioo) dollars, about ;^20, to one hundred
and fifty ($150) dollars,about £30 per acre,according to the
situation, to the advantages in connection with the upland
and to its own fertility.

It is not to be supposed, however, that hay is the only
crop that can be raised on this quality of land. Oats makes
a most successful crop, as under certain conditions, do other
grains.

One may safely say that one-half the possibilities of this
type of land, with regard to the variety of crops which can
be raised upon it, are not known. Very little experimenting
has been done, and what has been done has not been carried
on m a very systematic manner.

Though moderate, sized marshes are to be found some
distance from the head-waters of the Bay of Fundy the
largest are of necessity, to be found where the tides Je the
highest. There are some excellent dike lands in the vicinity
of lower Albert County, and in the region around the head of
Shepody Bay, especially near Dorchester, as also through
the Cumberland Basin district where the Tantramar is situ-
ated. Around Minus Basin, in Nova Scotia, are to be found
other very extensive marshes, much resembling those pre-
viously described A considerable quantity of the hay which
IS made on these marshes, is taken immediately to the up-
lands; some ot it. however, for convenience, is stored in
barns on the dike-lands themselves, and a considerable
amount on the more extensive marshes, as in the case of
the Tantramar, is made into large cocks; after this has been
harvested, great quantities of it are pressed at the barns on
the marshes, ready for shipment. On account of its fine
quality it commands a ready market, and unfortunately for
the farmers in this region, furnishes a strong incentive to

131

214

make their farming consist of raising hay and selling it to
the exclusion of every other branch of the industry. With
facilities such as are here presented, it can be readily appre-
ciated that no more ideal situation can be found in any
country, for extensive stock raising, either for dairying
purposes or for meat; and with a country now as close to the
British market, and having the virtual distance shortened
every day by the better facilities in steamship transportation,
it is obvious that a chance such as this, should form a
striking attraction for the class of farmer who knows his
business and attends to it as he should.

y \

■

CHARLOTTE COUNTY.

The County of Charlotte lies in the extreme southwest
of New Brunswick. According to Mr. Lugrin, the County
has an area of 822,500 acres. The Island of Grand Manan
lying well out in the Bay of Fundy together with the Wolves,
Campobello and Deer Island and the host of little islets
lying further inward, is a portion of Charlotte County. The
County borders on the north and east of York, Suubury,
Queens, Kings and Saint John. On the west it is bounded
by the Saint Croix River following the boundary between
Canada and the United States at this Point. On the south
of the County flow the waters of the Bay of Fundy. The
agricultural sections are situated above the coast and much
resemble those of western Saint John County, having a con-
siderable area of marsh land. The shore line is cut into a
large number of bays and harbors, the most important of
these being Mace's Bay and Passamaquoddy Bay, the latter
being defended from the sea by the great number of out-
lymg islands, the whole forming a fine harbor. On a point
running out into the bay is situated the town of Saint
Andrews, the shiretown of the County. Saint Andrews is
the centre of one of the largest fishing industries of the
Province, the surrounding waters swarming with various
varieties of fish. The canning of sardines has become

215

an important industry here for the last few years and is
capable of great expansion. The town is situated at the
mouth of the Saint Croix River and in the last few years
has attained great favor as a watering place among Ameri-
cans. Both here and at Campobello fine hotels have
been erected, which are capable of accommodating large
numbers of guests. The County has a very considerable
lumber trade not however, comparing with that of Saint
John or Northumberland. At Saint George, a pretty little
town lying a few miles up the Magaguadavic and near here
are situated fine red granite quarries, giving employment to
a considerable number ot men. St. Stephen, another of the
more important towns of the County is situated on the Saint
Croix River, opposite the American town of Calais. The
interior of the County is well provided with lakes, many of
which contain great numbers of fish. Throughout the
northern section of the County considerable quantities of red
deer are killed. The sections is well provided with railways
connecting with Saint John and the Intercolonial through
the Shore Line and at McAdam Junction north with the
Canadian Pacific Railway, so that it is most conveniently
situated as far as its transportation facilities are concerned.
Besides there is every facility for transportation by water,
the steamers from Saint Andrews connecting with the boats
of the International Line running between Saint John and
Boston. At Milltown adjoining Saint Stephen, is a large
cotton mill which gives employment to a considerable num-
ber of hands.

GOVERNMENT.

THE DOMINION.

The form of government in New Brunswick and in the
Dominion of Canada is modelled upon that of Great Britain,
but the system of popular government has been extended to
embrace municipal matters. There is no privileged class or
hereditary legislature.

There are three governing bodies (so to speak) in Canada;
the Parliament of Canada, the Local Legislatures and the

216

City and Municipal Corporations, and in the choice of the
membership of these bodies, every man, practically speaking,
has a voice. The system of self-government is therefore
about as complete as can be desired.

THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL.

At the head of the Government of the Dominion is the
Governor-General, who is the representative of Her Majesty
the Queen, is appointed by the Crown, and usually holds office
for five years. His powers in relation to matters coming
within the jurisdiction of parliament are similar to those
exercised by the Queen, but are modified somewhat by the
circumstances of the Dominion, and the results to be antici-
pated in the independent working out in a new country of
the principles of the British constitution. The official
residence of the Governor- General is at Ottawa, in the
Province of Ontario.

The Parliament of Canada consists of two branches: the
Senate, and the House ot Commons.

THE SENATE.

The members of the Senate are appointed by the Gov-
ernor-General on the advice of his council. Their tenure
of office is for life, or until they have become disqualified
under the Act regulating their appointment. Members of
the senate receive a sessional allowance of $i,ooo for each
session of parliament, besides an allowance for travelling
expenses. New Brunswick is entitled to be represented by
twelve senators. To be eligible for appointment to the
senate a person must be a male of the age of thirty years, a
British subject, possessed of property, above all incumbrance
and liabilities, to the value of $4,000, and a resident of the
province for which he is appointed.

THE HOUSE OF COMMONS.

The House of Commons is elected by ballot every five
years, unless sooner dissolved. A candidate for a seat in
the House of Commons require no other qualification than
is necessary to entitle him to vote at the election of a mem-
ber. New Brunswick elects sixteen members of the House

217

• of Commons: the City of St. John electing one, the County
of St. John two, the electoral district of Victoria, which
includes the Counties of Victoria and Madawaska, one, and
each of the other counties one. This representation is
subject to increase after each decenniil census until a speci-
hed maximum is reached. A member of the House of Com-
mons receives a sessional indemnity of $i,ooo tor each
session besides an allowance for travelling expenses.

There must, by law, be a session of parliament once in
every year.

THE MINISTRY.

The administration of the Government of Canada is
vested in twelve heads of departments, with whom are
usually associated the Speaker of the Senate, and sometimes
one or more members without office. The Departmental
Members are known as Ministers, and include the Ministers
of Justice, Public Works, Finance, Inland Revenue, Rail-
ways and Canals, Militia, Agriculture, Customs, Marine and
F.sneries, the Interior, the Secretaiy of State, and the Post-
master General.

THE PROVINCIAL GOVERNMENT.

The local affairs of the provinces, including several
classes of subjects not strictly local and specified in the
British North America Act, are dealt with by the Provincial
Legislatures.

THE LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR.

In each province there is a Lieutenant-Governor exercis-
mg in respect to matters within the jurisdiction of the Local
Legislatures the same powers as the Governor-General exer-
cises in respect to subjects within the jurisdiction of the
Canadian Parliament. The Lieutenant-Governors are ap-
pointed by the Governor-General. The Lieutenant-Governor
of New^runswick has a salary of $9,000 per annum paid by
the Doiiiirijon.

}'.

■

318

THE EXECUTIVE GOVERNMENT.

The admlnistratioi of provincial affairs is vested in an
Executive Council of nine members.

The public lands are under the control of the Crown
Land Department.

THE LEGISLATURE.

The Legislature consists of a Legfislative Council not
exceeding eighteen members and a House of Assembly of
forty-one members. Members of the Legislative Council are
appointed by the Executive Government. To be eligible a
person mus^ possess real estate to the value of $2,500, be a
British subj^.t of the age of at least 25 years and reside in
the Province. The term of office is for life or until the per-
. sons are disqualified under the statute creating the office.

The property qualification of a member of the House of
Assembly is the possession of freehold or leasehold estate to
the value of $',200 over and above incumbrance. A candi-
date must also be of the age of 21 years and upwards, and a
British subject.

The members of the House of Assembly hold their seats
for four years unless the House is sooner dissolved. There
must be a session of the Legislature every year. Members
of both branches receive a sessional allowance of $300 besides
travelling expenses.

THE FRANCHISE.

Every male person, being a British subject twenty-one
years of age and possessed of real estate to the value of
$100; or personal estate to the value of $400, or both
together to the value of $400, or an annual income of $400
is entitled in New Brunswick to vote for members of the
Assembly. This practically gives a vote to every industri-
ous man. Any changes likely to be made in the qualifica-
tion of voters will be to reduce it, so as to extend the
franchise to any deserving citizens who do not come within
the present qualification.

219

The City of Sain. John elects two members to the House
of Assembly; the City and County of Saint John elecrfour
members; the Counties of Vorl<. Charlotte, Northumb LlZ
CarlJ"' rT'""' ='"' '°"' «"■" "■« Counties 7^2
Quee"rsu„b"""r' ""'■ ^'"'^ "■-• '"^ '^-"ti" o^

THE MUNICIPALITIES.

The rate-payers in each county of New Brunswick are h-

such as ,n England are vested in the Courts of Quarter
Sess.o„, Parochial Boards and other similar instituZs
Each pansh m a county elects two or more councillors and
the councilors so elected form the governing body o^ the
county. Every rate-payer is eligible to be elected a member
of the Mun,c,pal Council, and all rate-payers of theTrUh
have a voice in the election. "^

sions^'' e^r'lt" ^""""^ '"■ "' ^^="^^'" -'^.'woses.
sions a year. It possesses very large local power as i,

.mposes the direct taxation necessary ffr all Coun7puVo e

such as the erecfon of Court Houses and Gaols, the payme„;

of Constables and Crown Witnesses and other incident"

expenses connected with the courts, the . laries of M nic^a

Offlcers and such other expenditures for municipal purZs

mentof the Poor-rate when the Overseers of the poor in anv
Pansh request that a rate shall be levied, and appoi,^ts all
Parish and County officers. ff""us an

It will appear from this review that the system of g-overn-
men m operation m New Brunswick is es4ti.Ilv nopull"
and IS calculated t. develop in each individual ; ;ense of
the privileges and responsibilities of citizenship. Every man
who IS industrious may have, if he desires it. a vc ^efn the
management of the affairs of the country, from the levying
of an assessment for some trifling local serv.V. „„ JZ
rmination of the most important questions^affecting life

of
dete

ill.

i^'

220

and property and the welfare of the Dominion. In no part
of the world are the people more thoroughly imbued with the
principles of self-government than they are in New Bruns-
wick. By preserving the form of monarchy stability of
government is assured, but by the wide diffusion of the
franchise the principles of the broadest democracy have full
room to play. The settler from the United Kingdom wiU
find in the Province the same complete freedom of thought
and speech as he enjoyed at home, and perhaps in a greater
degree, since the traditions and family prestige, which have
more or less effect in a country like Great Britain in shaping
pnblic opinion, have no influence in this Province. The
fullest citizenship is a legacy which every man in New
Brunswick can leave to his children.

REVENUE AND TAXATION.

The expenses of the Provincial Governments are defrayed
out of subsidies, so called, paid by the Dominion Govern-
ment as well as moneys received from local sources. The
Provincial Governments do not impose direct taxation. In
New Brunswick the principal source of revenue at present,
other than the Dominion subsidies, is the Crown Lands, or
more properly speaking, the lun.ber cut upon Crown Lands.

The following are the estimated receipts of the Local
Government for the year 1899: —

RECEIPTS.

Dominion Subsidies, $ 48.3,501 07

Territorial Revenue, 184,984 50

Fees Provincial Secretary's Office, 10,291 80

Lunatic Asylum 6,117 91

Agriculture 75 00

Private and Local Bj'ls 1,206 66

Taxes Incorporated Companies, .25,063 96

Succession Duties, 30, 232 78

Queen's Printer, 1,157 55

Liquor Licenses 20,743 32

Miscellaneous Receipts 864 92

$764,239 47

221

EXPENDITURES.

Administration of Justice $ 16 900 U

^^;;!'^"'^"'-^ '.'. 34.'830 73

Auditor General 2,400 00

Boys Industrial Home, 1 ^OO 00

Contingencies .';;;; ^^'^^^ ^^

Ueaf and Dumb Institution, Fredericton. ... 500 00

^f"'^.^*'^"' 202,704 61

^'""'•°"'* 7.458 67

Executive Government, 30,430 oo

Fisheries Protection, 1 477 50

Forests Fire Protection '.',[,[[[ i^goo oO

Free Grants Act 2036 29

Game Protection 797^ g^

Immigration, 1 334 75

Interest (not chargeable to Special Funds).. . 124*430 96

Legislature, 20,105 90

Lunatic Asylum Maintenance 42 000 00

Mining ■''^^^ ^^

Natural History and Historical Societies 350 oo

^"^ll^^J^^'h 1332 23

Public Hospitals 6,000 00

Public Printing, „ 735 3^

PubhcWorks, 197332 62

Refunds Crown Lands, 143 75

Stumpage Collection 10,750 00

Surveys and Railway Inspection 2,'908 52

Sportsmen's Exhibition, Boston, 1898, '555 25

Unforseen Expenses, 4,069 10

$749,644 35

MUNICIPAL TAXATION.

The rate of municipal taxation varies in diflferent locali-
ties, but excepting in the cities and incorporated towns is
so low as to be almost nominal. In the country districts
the taxes are levied, first by a poll tax equal to one-sixth of
the whole sum to be raised, of which each male resident of

222

the county over the age of twenty-one years pays an equal
proportion. This poll tax varies in different localties from ♦
thirty cents to eighty cents, or say from from one shilling and
sixpence to three shillings and sixpence per head. The
remainder of the assessment is levied upon real and personal
property, this, including assessments for all purposes, except
the district assessments for schools, varies from one-third to
one-half of one per cent, on a fair valuation of property ;
thus the taxes on property or income to the value of $ioo
would be from thirty to fifty cents, or from one shilling
and sixpence to two shillings and sixpence. At the same
time that the county rates are collected, and included in the
above estimate, a sum equal to thirty cents, or one shilling
and sixpence, per head of the population of the county is
collected to form what is known as the county school fund,
which is disbursed on the order of the Chief Superintendent
of the Provincial Board ot Education to the trustees of the
school districts, to assist in paying the salaries of teachers.

The rate of distribution is $30 per annum for each quali-
fied teacher in the district, and the balance according to the
average number of pupils attending schools in the district
compared with the whole average in the county.

In many Parishes there is no assessment for the support
of the poor, for the reason that there are no paupers to
support.

The whole Province is divided into school districts and
the rate-papers of each district meet annually and by a majority
vote elect trustees to manage the schools, and also at the
same time determine how much money shall be raised in
each district for school purposes, to supplement the Provin-
cial grant and their proportion of the County Fund. This
amount depends entirely upon the decision of the rate-
payers themselves, and is large or small as occasion demands;
every dollar that is thus raised is expended for the mainten-
ance of schools in the district, and free education is given to
every child whether its parents are able to pay their share of
the taxes or not.

223

All municipal taxation, except the County School Fund
assessment, is directly under the control of the rate-payers
being imposed by councillors of their own choosing

EDUCATION.

New Brunswick maintains a University known as the
University of New Brunswick, the degrees granted by which
are recognized everywhere. It is established at Fredericton
and IS maintained by a Provincial endowment, by revenues
from real estate and by fees from students. It is well pro-
v.ded with apparatus and has a good library. There is no
heological chair and the instruction is non-denominational.
In order to assist those who may not be able wholly to meet
the cost of attending the University, a number of students
are admitted free under certain conditions, and there is in
addition and excellent system of scholarship or bursaries.

The Methodist Church maintains a college at Sackville,
Westmorland County, where a course in arts or divinity is
given at the option ot the student.

The Roman Catholic Church maintains a collec^e at
Memramcook, Westmorland, where a course in arts or
divinity is given at the option of the student. Instruction is
given at Memramcook both to French or English students.
The great educational factor in New Brunswick is the
Common School System, which is designed to give every
child in the Province a sound English education. This
system is based upon the principle ihat the property of the
country should pay for educating the youth of the country
and, consequently, it requires every person to pay his share
towards the maintenance of schools. This system has been
in force for twenty-eight years, and has become thoroughly
interwoven into the institutions of the Province.

At the head of the educational system is the Provincial
B oard of Education, consisting of the Lieutenant-Governor,
the Chief Superintendent of Education, the President of the
University and the members of the Executive Governmeni

i:t

22,4

A Normal, Training and Model School is maintained at
Fredericton where teachers are trained in the theory and
practice of teaching.

Although the basis for the maintenance of schools is
direct taxation upon the people, the Provincial Government
contributes largely towards the salaries of teachers, the
Government allowance for this purpose being higher in New
Brunswick in proportion to the local contributions than in any
other Province of Canada. Common School Teachers rect' ve
from the Provincial Treasury, as follows: —

First-class Teachers, Males $135 per annum.

" " Females 100

Second-class " Males. 108 "

'• •• Females 81

Third-class " Males 81 "

" Females.... 63

Reference has already been made to the County School
Fund from which a sum is paid to the trustees cf each dis-
trict to aid in the maintenance of the schools. The school
districts are so laid out that the children of every settler
shall have a school within convenient reach of their home.
In each district are three trustees elected as already stated,
by the lace-payers. One of the trustees retires annually but
he is eligible for re-election. The trustees decide how many
and what grades of schools shall be maintained during the
year and at the annual meeting the rate-payers determine
what amount to be raised by assessment upon the district,
shall be appropriated for school purposes. The schools are
subject to the supervision ol Inspectors appointed by the
Board of Education and to the general superintendence of
the Board. There are special provisions in the law for cities
and incorporated towns.

Fifteen grammar schools, one for each county, and nearly
seventy superior schools, are provided for by law, for pur-
poses of a secondary education, and form a part ot the gen-
eral school system. These, an J the common schools, are
provided for by legislative grants to be supplemented by

225

grants from the districts or towns in which they are estab-
lished. The teacher of a grammar school receives from the
government $350, and the teacher of a superior school $250,
•conditioned upon the payment of an equal amount by the
local board.

In additional to the Provincial grants for common schools
provision is made to aid poor districts, which receive to the
•extent of one-third more from the Provincial grants, and
one-third more from the county fund. This enables the
settlers in the newest and poorest settlements in l,he province
to maintain schools during the whole year.

There is also a legislative grant in aid of school-houses
for poor districts.

Under this admirable system schools have been es-
tablished in all parts of the province, a large and efficient
staff of teachers is maintained, and generally the whole
educational service is in a most satisfactory condition. The
total annual expenditure upon the common school system is
fully $500,000 and there are about 70,000 children upon the
rolls, with an average attendance during the year of about
58,000. This in a country largely made up of new settk-
ments, is a most excellent showing. The new settler in New
Brunswick may rest assured than he can secure for his
children, at a comparatively small cost, the priceless boon of
a good education.

MEANS OF COMMUNICATION.

HIGHWAYS.

For purposes of internal and external communication
New Brunswick is exceedingly well provided. The highway
system is excellent, and the roads are kept generally in good
repair with substantial bridges over the streams. Every
settled locality has either a great road or one or more by-
roads running through it, and there is not a toll-gate on
either turnpike or bridge from one end of the province to the
other.

226

,' )

The roads are maintained by grants from the Legislature
and by what is known as statute labor. The money grants"
amount to about $170,000 a year, the statute labor, nomi-
nally, to twice as much. The money grants are expended
m part by officers appointed by the government and in part
by officers appointed by the municipalities. The statute
labor is a tax payable in work upon the roads in the district
in which the individual resides. Every male inhabitant
over 21 years of age and under 60 must do three days' work
upon the roads, with an additional amount apportioned on
the property of the individual. An average tax would be
five day's work. This may be commuted by a payment of
50 cents in lieu of each days' work. There is also a tax of
half a cent an acre upon unimproved wilderness land m
certain cases. This is applied to the making of roads.

WATER COMMUNICATION.

The numerous Ports of the province are constantly visited
by ships from all parts of the world, and St. John is, sum-
mer or winter, a point for the arrival and departure of sea-
gomg vessels. A large fleet of steamers and sailing vessels
mamtain communication between the Province and Great
Britain.

Regular lines of steamers ply between St. John and St.
Stephen, St. Andrews, Eastport. Portland, Boston, Yarmouth,
Digby, and Annapolis, Fine steamers go up the St. John to
Fredericton, and smaller steamers run to Woodstock.
Other large steamers run regularly to the Grand Lake,*
V/ashdemoak Lake and Belleisle Bay. There is steam com-
munication between St. Stephen and St. Andrews, between
New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island, between the
towns on the Lower Miramichi and between several points
on the Bay Chaleur. In addition to these lines of steamers a
large fleet of coasters attends to local business, and gives
cheap communication with the princial ports of the United
States. The competition between the carriers by land and
by water insures cheap transportation.

qq:

(I'

RAILWAYS.

In proportion to its population there are more miles of
railway in New Brunswick than in any other state or
provmce in America. The total number of miles constructed
and m operation at present is about 1,500, or one mile to
ever 250 of the inhabitants. In Great Britain there is about
one mile of railway to every 3,500 of the inhabitants.
About $20,000,000 has been expended on railways in New
Brunswick.

The Intercolonial Railway was built under the special
guarantee contained in the Act of Union between the Provinces
^o give connection by rail over British territory between the
Maritime and Interior Provinces of Canada. The Intercolonial
extends from Quebec to Halifax and St. John, its total length
with Its branches being 845 miles, of which 354 miles are in
New Brunswick. It extends from St. John to the Straits
. of Northumberland, through the Counties of St. John, Kings
and Westmorland, and from the Nova Scotia boundary to
the Quebec boundary, the whole length of the province from
north to south, through the Counties of Westmorland, Kent.
Northumberland, Gloucester and Restigouche. From St.
John to Quebec, over the Intercolonial, is 779 miles, from
St. john to Halifax 276. It is the great channel of trade
between the interior and the Maritime Provinces, and in
New Brunswick it affords a most valuable outlet for the pro-
duce of all the counties through which it passes.

The New Brunswick " Railway now the Atlantic division
Eastern terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway which
runs entirely across the continent from St. John to Vancou-
ver on the Pacific slope, was originally a line from Gibson,
opposite Fredericton. to] Edmunston, in Madawaska County,
but the company owning it have absorbed several other lines
in western New Brunswick and built several branches, in-
cluding one into Maine, so that it now operates 443 mile's of
railway. The line begins at St. John," where it connects
with the Intercolonial, and extends to St. Andrews, St.
Stephen. Fredericton, Woodstock, Grand Fa

% '^^

ilS

and

I w

228

Edmunston, in New Brunswick, and Fort Fairfield, Houlton
and Presque Isle, in Maine. It has a line from Woodstock
to Fredericton on the eastern side of the St. John. It
passes through St. John, Charlotte, Kings, Queens, Sunbury,
York, Carleton and Madawaska Counties, and will probably
be extended to Quebec. At Vanceboro it connects with the
United States railway system, and affords the great agricul-
tural counties of New Brunswick the best of facilities for the
shipment of produce to the United States markets. At
Gibson it connects with the Northern and Western Railway
to Chatham on the north shore of the Province.

The Shore Line, is a railway 80 miles long running from
St. John to St. Stephen byway of the coast through St. John
and Charlotte Counties. It passes through the thriving town
of St. George; where are very extensive quarries of red
granite and at other points on its route the outlets of several
rivers apply fine motive power.

The Albert Railway begins at Salisbury Station, on the
Intercolonial Railway and extends to Hopewell, in Albert
County, a distance of 45 miles. A branch three miles long
connects the town of Harvey with this railway.

The Elgin Railway extends from Petitcodiac on the In-
tercolonial to Elgin, Albert County, a distauce of 14 miles.

The Kent Northern extends from Richibucto, the shire-
town and principal port of Kent County, to the Intercolonial.
It is 27 miles long, with a branch of seven miles long to St.
Louis in the same county.

The Chatham Branch connects the town and port of
Chatham with the Intercolonial. It will form a part of the
Northern and Western Railway now in course of con-
struction. It is nine miles long, and now forms part of the
Canada Eastern.

The Daiaousie branch is a branch of the Intercolonial,
six miles long to the town of Dalhousie, the shiretown of
Restigouche.

The St. Martins and Upham Railway extends from
Hampton on the Intercolonial to the port of St. Martins on

IS 30

229

the Bay of Fundy in the County of St. John. It
mill s long.

The Havelock, Elgin and Petitcodiac Railway, 12
nules long, connects the excellent farming district in Have-
lock, Kings County, with the Intercolonial.

The St. John Bridge and Railway, two miles long, con-
nectmgthe Intercolonial Railway with the Canadian Pacific
Railway was built in 1885. The Cantilever Bridge across
the St. John is built of steel. It consists of a central span
477 feet long, and two shore spans 1431^ and 191 feet
respectively in length. It rests upon granite piers, that on
the east being ninety-six feet high and that on the west being
fifty feet high. This bridge and railway, connecting the
railway systems of the Province at St. John gives unbroken
rail connection with all points on the Continent.

The Caraquet Railway from Bathurst on the Intercolon-
ml to the harbor of Shippegan in Gloucester County is
66 miles long.

The Canada Eastern Railway runs from Gibson opposite
Fredericton to the Intercolonial at Chatham Junction. It
IS no miles long. It passes across the centre of the Prov-
ince through the counties of York and Northumberland.

The New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island Railway
runs from SackviUe on the Intercolonial to Cape Tormentine
on Northumberland Straits. It is 30 miles long and runs
thiough the finest farming lands in the Province.

The Indiantown Branch, 14 miles long from the
Intercolonial to Indiantown on the north branch of the
Miramichi.

The Central railway of New Brunswick runs from
Norton on the Intercolonial Railway to Chipman, at the head
of Grand Lake, in the County of Queens. It passes through
an exceptionally fine agricultural country and terminates at
an important lumber centre. At various points along the
line there are extensive coal fields. It is proposed to extend
this line to Fredericton through portions of the counties of
Queens, Sunbury and York, thereby opening up a profitable
market for the extensive coal deposits of Queens.

230

The Tobique Valley Railway runs along the bank of the
Tobique River from Pirth Station on the Canadian Pacific
Railway to Plaster Rock in Victoria County, a distance of 28
miles. There is much fine land on the Tobique and at Plaster
Rock there are extensive deposits of land plaster which are
being worked for export. A large pulp mill near the ter-
minus of the railway is projected.

The Temiscouta Railway which runs from Edmunston
in New Brunswick to River du Loup in the Province of
Quebec, connects the Canadian Pacific with the Intercolonial
Railway. A branch of this line runs from Edmunston to St.
Francis, an important lumber centre on the St. John river.

The principal railroad under construction in the Province
at the present time is the Restigouche and Western which
runs across the northern section of the Province from Camp-
bellton on the Intercolonial to St. Leonards on the Canadian
Pacific. At this point the road crosses the St. John river,
and at Van Buren, Maine, connects with the Bangor and
Aroostook, which gives access to various parts of the New
England States. About 20 miles of the road from Camp-
bellton, west, are completed, and it is expected the remaining
distance, something over 100 miles, w'll be finished within a
year.

The St. John Valley Railway between Fredericton and
Woodstock, on the Western bank of the St. John, is another
railway which opens u; an important agricultural district.
The surveys of this line are completed and it is expected that
work will be commenced at an early day.

It will be seen from this summary that New Brunswick
is exceedingly well provided for in the matter of internal
communication and that the points wherein the system is at
all deficient are likely soon to be supplied. A settler in any
part of the Province will have the advantage of good high-
ways giving him access either to railways or water communi.
cation and in most cases to both.

THE MAIL AND TELEGRAPH SERVICE.

There is an eflScient mail service to all parts of New
Brunswick. The postage on letters is two cents per half
-Of ace.

231

All important towns in New Brunswick have t^^le^'raphic
communication Telephone lines run through the centre of
the Province and to many points along the coast line

MINERALS.

The dense forest which covers the greater part of New
Brunswick renders a thorough geological exploration almost
impossible, but enough has been ascertained to justify an
expectation that the mineral resources may play an important
part m the future of this Province.

hv . J r ^'°^°f '^^^ '^•^•^'°"« °f ther Province, as laid down
by the Geographical Survey, and shown upon the last map.
are as rollows : . *^

Laurentine,

*' Limestone,

Pre Cambrian,
Cambro Silurian,
Dolerite,
Silurian,
Granite,
Devonian,

Lower Carboniferous Laurentine,
Lower Carboniferous,
Middle Carboniferous,
Triassic,
Trachyte-Felsite.

The minerals known to exist in quantities which will pay
for working are as follows:

The carboniferious formation of New Brunswick em-
braces an area of about 6.500 square miles, or parts of York
Sunbury, Queens, Kings, Westmorland, Albert, Kent'
Northumberland and Gloucester, with several overliers
in other counties. The only productive mines are those at
Grand Lake-already referred to in the description of Queens
County. The seam is a surface one. 22 inches thick and is
.known to extend over a very large area-probably at least

I I i

232

600 square mile.i. The coal is an excellent steam coal, very
hig'hly esteemed for blacksmiths' use, and is unequaMed for
coking. A new mine has been discover^ed at Dunsinune,
Kings County, and is being opened up.

A very remarkable mineral known as albertite, the exact
nature of which has beei"" a source ot dispute among scien-
tists, was found in very :onsiderable quantili.s in Albei f
County. It is a brit'e, jet black, glossy mineral, free-
from smut. 'c burns readily and melts when exposed
to heat under cover. /Jbertite 4s now regarded as a pure
petroleum, and is of great commercial value; the prot'abi-
lities of further discoveries of paying deposits art; of great
interest.

In Westmorland and Albert Counties petroleum springs
abound. A company of capitalists working under a special
Act is conducting exclusive explorations for oil in Westmor-
land County with good results.

The Albert shales yield from 35 to 50 gallon ol oil fit
for illuminating purposes to the ton. OuMig to the abund
ance of petroleum these shales are not utili, ed, but it is not
unlikely that they may come tc possess a high commercial
value.

Antimony occurs in several places in New Brunswick, but
the largest deposit is in Prince William in York Cou'Hy,
where it is found in very large quantities as sulphuret of
antimony. The quality of the ore is good, and there is
more or less metallic antimony mixed with it. This is one
of the most important deposits of antimon;. know n to exist
anywhere, paying deposits being very few in number.

Manganese is widely distributed in New Brunswick.
The best known deposits are at Shepody Mountain in Al''^-
ne ir Sussex Vale in Kings; at Quaco in St. John a J
Tete-a-gouche in Gloucester. Mines have been opened at
all these points.

Numerous deposits of iron ore are known to exist in
New Brunswick, The best known of these is the deposit of red
hematite in Jacksontown, Carleton County, commonly known
as the Woodstook Iron Mines. The iron produced from this-

'i^

233

""'^ l u! IT^ '"P"''°'' ''"^"*>'' '^^ "resistance" being re-
markably h.gh. Large quantities of this ore have been
mined smelted and exported, and it hr.s been usi in the
manufacf .re of armor plntes for the British Navy The
u-on .s somewhat brittle ow..g to the presence of phosphor-
ous. but probably means could be found to remedy this
■objection. Throughout Carleton County large deposL of
jro, ore are to be tound .nd .hoy always'occuf in co'nnectio^
w.th In. stone. Being in the heart of a cov. .try where there
are thousands of acres of the finest hardwood forest, for the
manufacture of charcoal, they afford the elements of a highly
important industry. '««gniy

Bog iron ore is very abundant in New Brunswick and is
iound m cons.d^-able quantities near the Grand Lake Coal
Mmes. but whether the deposit is large enough to warrant
the erecMon of s„.elting works is not at present known.

v. ^TT^7"^"^ ^"^ °P'"'°" ^' ^° '^' P'-^bable future
,^^ V. of the New Brunswick deposits ot iron ore, it is suffi-

cient to say that the distribution of excellent ores is wfde-
spread and the quantities enormous, that they are nearly
always found associated with limestone, and that the fuel
for smelting is always obtainable at a low price.

COPPFU,

Copper ores are found in ^ew Brunswick in considerable
quantities Near Bathurst ti re is a considerable deposit
of th sMlphuret, and in this .icinity are numerous other
depo. e same ore, which it is thought might be
prohtably worked. Along the Bay of 1- ndy coast thL are
numerous depos.ts of .opper in Albert John and Char-
lotte Counties, which only need capital to develope them
A opper mine is now operate^ near Dorchester, in Westi
moHand L ounty. Copper ore is also found upon the Tobique

Of other metals and netallic ores known to exist fn
greater or less quantities we have lead which in the form of

Galena IS found in several l.-.a!iti. . This ore occurs on the
shore of the Tnhiniip Pjvp- - *- -i t r. ,

-j__ -!\e.,« :c-. ,-:nles fiom St. John and

I ■ a

J34

possibly in large enough quantities to have a commercial value
The extent ot the deposit has not been ascertained. It
occurs in Charlotte County also, in the Island of Campo-
bello,and also near Norton, Kings County. The latter deposit
probably contains a jjood percentage of silver.

Silver is found in several localities, the principal being
the Elm Tree, in Gloucester County, near Bathurst, which it
has been hought would afford a profitable investment.

Gold is very widely diffused in New Brunswick. It may
be washed from the sand of many of the rivers which flow
from the i imary tormations, but as yet no paying deposit
has been uiscovered. It has been found in Albert County
near Elgin by Dr. Bailey; Professor Hind fouri it in the
Upsalquitch in Restigouche County; on the Nepisiquit in
Gloucester County; in Campbell River, Long lake and
Blue Mountain Brook, in Victoria County; on the Little
Southwest Miramichi, in Northumberland County, and at
Springfield and the Dutch Valley Road, Kings County. The
writer has found it on Falls Brook near Grand Falls Vic-
toria County, on the Wapskehegan, Campbell River and
Serpentine in the same County; he has good evidence of its
having been found on the Muniac, Victoria County, and the
Becaguimec, Carleton County. Gold bearing quartz is said
to have been found on the Tobique River. The conclusion
of all observers relative to the existence of gold in New
Brunswick is that in the present state of our knowledge of
the country it is not judicious either to affirm or deny its
existence in paying quantities. Several excellent specimens
of gold bearing quartz have been seen by the writer and
their owners have affirmed that they were discovered in
New Brunswick. As in every case the parties were not
financially able to thoroughly prospect the county where
the precious metal was alleged to be found, the value of
their discovery, if discovery it was, has never been shown.
There are many persons who are confident that gold will be
found in paying quantities in New Brunswick.

Various other metalliferous ores exist in the province,
such as ores of zinc and tin, but only in small quantities.

-y

235

-v

As sweated at the outset of this chapter the wilderness con-
djtion of the greater part of New Brunswick presents an
almost .nsurmountabie obstacle to thorough prospecting In
a country where the rocks are covered with soil or with
moss, .t ,s impossible to say what mineral wealth may not
remam concealed. The best authorities hesitate at express-
.ng any opinions, but the most general, such, for instance,
as that of the distinguished Prof. Hitchcock, who in his
report on the geology of Maine, alludes to the district on the
east of the St. John, drained by the tributaries of the
rob.que, as a most promising field for investigation; or of
i^rof. H.nd who. while expressing his high estimation of the
mmes already worked, said that the development of the coal
copper, iron and gold deposits were worthy of further
enquiry, and of Dr. Bailey who said it is impossible to speak
of the productive capacity of the metalliferous rocks with
certamty until their yielding powers had been fairly tested
Yet enough is known to justify an expectation tnat in time
the mmeral deposits may become a source of great wealth to
the Provmce.

In addition to the metallic ores there are other minerals
such as plumbago, which is found near St. John in larg-e
quantities and of very good quality. It is mined on a
hm.ted scale for export. Near Sussex, Kings County, there
are Salt Spnngs. In Charlotte County is a deposit of
Anthracite Coal of unknown extent. Gypsum is found ia
inexhaustible quantities in Albert, Westmorland, Kings and

TZ ^T''"'- L''"^^t°"^ °f '^''cellent quality is abund-
. ant. Red, Grey and Bluish Granite can be had in unlimited
quantities, and the Freestone Quarries are inexhaustible.
A mere catalogue of the minerals of economic value with the
localities in the Province where they occur would fill manv
pages In fact for a Province of its area it contains a
remarkable variety of mineral deposits of greater or less
value Capital and energy have, in the mineral resources of
New Brunswick, an extensive and almost unexplored field

g
U

236

rt-

THE FOREST.

^ Next to agriculture the chief industry of New Brunswick
IS the manufacture and export of lumber. No country in
the world IS probably more densely wooded than New Bruns-
wick, the area of land in a wilderness state not covered with
forests being so small as to be merely nominal. Every acre
of improved land in the province, except the diked lands
was at one time covered with a dense growth of trees, and
there are yet millions of acres upon which the forest is
unbroken.

The total cut of lumber, not including timber, averages
200,000,000 superficial feet.

The most valuable of the New Brunswick forest trees is
the White Pine, so-called, from the whiteness of its wood
when freshly cut. It is soft, light, free from knots and easily
wrought. Its principal use is for the interior finish of houses
but It IS adapted for many purposes. Red Pine is also found
in the Province, and is almost as much esteemed as the
White Pine.

_ There is an extensive young growth of Pine, and under a
judicious system of forestry, the consumption would probably
be exceeded by the annual growth.

Black Spruce furnishes most of the deals for export
Thirty years ago it was estimated to constitute one-third of
the forest, but this would now be considered an over-estimate
The annual cut has been very great; but the supply is yet
large and will probably never be exhausted, or so reduced as
to render the manufacture and export of Spruce anything
other than an important industry. The Black Spruce attai. i
a height of from sixty to eighty feet and a diameter from
eighteen to thirty inches. Its chief properties are strength,
hghtness and elasticity. It is largely used for building pur-
poses. For export it is sawn into deals, which are three inches
thick, 7, 9 and II inches wide and of various lengths. Other

""'* I HI|IWr«»ia

•iMmjmmmmttdmm

237

1!"!~ Black Spruce makes valuable

P-les, and .s now being extensively used in the manufac
facture of wood pulp. There are now four pulp mills in New
. Brunswick and others projected.

New R^^'"'' ^^^^'"y. ^' '* '^ '^^^'^' '« a great industry in
New Brunswick. It is prosecuted chiefly in the winter
season when the snow affords roads by which the logs can
be hauled to the banks of the streams. When the Lring
freshets come the logs are floated or "driven" as the expres
sion ,s, to the booms when they are put together into rafts
and are taken thence to the mills to be sawed. This industry
gives employment to a great many men and horses and fur^
nishes a market for large quantities of farm produce.

«nH ^ .^?'"" '' ^ "'""""' '''' '^^"^ the Black Spruce
and IS wood is not so highly esteemed. The supply is large
and It is cut and used indiscriminately with Black Spruce

Balsam Fir.-This is a common tree. It is quite re'sin-

i ous, producing what is known in the arts as "Canada

Ba sam, which exudes through the bark. It is lighter in

_ Hemlock Spruce is l-^rger in si^e than the Black Spruce.

IS a firm, course-grained wood, lasting remarkably well
under water or when kept thoroughly dry. Being very
enacous of nails it is much used for boarding in buifdings;
In the shape of logs it is much esteemed in wharf-building
and in mm.ng. The Hemlock .s a widely diffused wood and
IS tound in great quantities in several counties of the Pro-
vince. Its bark is valuable for tanning purposes. In ad-
dition^ to the bark exported and that used in the country,
there is an annual export of extract of the bark to the value
of about $200,000. The natural grain of Hemlock, when
varnished, is very pretty, and the wood is becoming fashion-
able for the interior finish of dwellings. Hemlock makes
excellent packing boxes.

Hacmatac or Larch is one of the commonest trees It
grows tall and straight to a height of eighty feet or more.
Ihe butts 01 the tree and one of the principal ro.ts form a

238

'knee" and are in great request in shipbuilding, forming
an important article of export. Tamarac timber was much
used m ship building, but what is known as Bay Spruce has
now largely taken its place, most of the large tamarac hav-
ing been cut. There is yet much of smaller growth in the
country, and, as it is a rapidly growing wood, it might be
planted with advantage.

Cedar is one of the most widely distributed and valuable
of New Brunswick woods. It grows in wet ground and
river valleys; sometimes in a swamp of 50 or 100 acres in
extent will consist of cedar trees standing so close together
that their foliage is scarcely penetrable by the sunlight. It
grows to a height of forty feet and large specimens are two
feet or more in diameter, but the majority of trees do not
exceed a diameter of twenty inches, if measured a few feet
from the ground. The wood of the cedar is light, soft, fine
grained and easily wrought. It has a pleasing, aromatic
odor, which it does not lo^ if kept dry, and hence is much
esteemed as a material for closets. It is practically indes-
tructible by the weather, and will **and a succession of
moisture and dryness for many years. Made into shingles
it will last upon the roofs of buildings for upwards of thirty
years, and its durability, whc. w.,ed as fencing, is even greater.
Its lightness causes it to be esteemed by boat-buiWers. It
IS well adapted for household utensils as it beconAe* nvhiter
and smoother by use. On nearly every farm sufficie^^ <^Mar
will be found to provide all requisite fencing, and this is a
very important consideration to the settler. The principal
use to which cedar is put, except for fencing, is for railway
ties or "sleepers," bridge piers, telegraph poles and shingles.
The export of this wood is large and is chiefly to the United
States. Shingles are of two kinds, shaved and sawed, the
former are made by hand, the latter by machinery.

Cedar makes a handsome hedge and is of rapid growth.
This is not the true cedar; it is the Thuja Occidentalis of
Linneus, and is also called the Arbor Vitaj.

Black and Yellow Birch may be considered together as

thev are pvnQrt<="^ '^'^!'-■T!m!mff>'^• •••ir' — '■'-- -r i-.. .

-_, -*j _ -..jjv.li. — -ii~,i^,vrimmaiCiy unuc: mc name ui isircn.

239

The grain of Black Birch is very fine, close and pretty; it
takes a bright polish and is used to some extent in furniture
and the inte-ior finish of houses. It is practically indes-
tructible under water, and therefore is admirably adapted for
piles and wharves. These birches grow upon the best of
soils and the supply in the Province is yet very great,
although, in many districts, the larger trees, suitable for
heavy timber, have been cut. The birch makes excellent
fuel.

White Birch and Paper or Canoe Birch, though sometimes
confounded are really diherent varieties. Owing to the vast
supply of superior wood these birches are not much used
except for the manufacture of show cases, spools, bobbins,
brush backs, &c. It is from the bark of the Paper Birch
that Indians make their canoes.

Two varieties of Beech grow in New Brunswick, the red
and the white. The Red Beech is a valuable wood. It is
imperishable when kept perfectly dry or constantly wet.
Being a hard wood and susceptible of a high polish it makes
excellent tool handles, shoe lasts^ mallets and the like. For
agricultural implements or any purpose where strength and
durability are required, Red Beech is admirably adapted. It
makes excellent flooring and is annually becoming more popu-
lar for this purpose. Red Beech forms a considerable part of
large forests and is becoming an important article of export.
This tree produces very palatable nuts every second year.

One of the most useful, beautiful and common trees in
New Brunswick is the Maple. There are several varieties
of Maple, but in general they may be described as lofty,
well shaped trees, with beautiful foliage; they are of quick
growth and as they bear transplanting very well are greatly
esteemed as shade trees, especially as they do not injure the
grass growing beneath them. Their presence in the forest
indicates the best quality of soil.

Rock Maple is the king of the deciduous trees of North

rican forests; sometimes it grows nearly one hundred
fe«t in height with corresponding proportions. In summer
when clothed in green it is beautiful to lo

upon, and in

240

autumn when its leaves change to blood-red, golden-yellcw,
brown and many other colors its appearance is magnificent!
The wood of the Rock Maple is white when freshly cut, but
becomes shghtly reddish with exposure. The grain is fine.
cJose s.lky and very pretty, especially in the accidental,
though common varieties, known as Curled Maple or Bird's
Eye Maple. Maple is adapted for all the purposes that Beech
.s, but the more beautifully grained wood is much sought
after by cabmet-makers and others desiring a light wood of
attractive appearance for finishing purposes. The Bird's
Eye Maple makes excellent violin backs. The ordinary Maple
js now sawn into various dimensions for builders' uses, and
Its popularity is on the increase. As a fuel Rock Maple is
superior to all other woods; it makes the best charcoal, and
Its ashes are rich in alkali.

The Rock Maple is also known as the "Sugar" Maple
because of the richness of its sap in the saccharine principle!
Maple Sugar is a regular article of commerce, the quantity
produced in New Brunswick annually being about half a
m.lhon pounds. It is made from the sap of the Maple which
begms to flow in the month of March. Syrup made from the
sap ,s preferred to the finest grade of West India molasses.
There are two species of Elm in New Brunswick, the
white and the red. Both are beautiful shade trees. The
\Vh^e Elm often grows to the height of one hundred feet,
Its branches are long and pendulous, its foliage rich and
pleasing in shape. It grows wild on the low, deep soiled
intervals, and the quantity available for commercial rses is
limited. The wood is strong, tenacious and elastic, does
not split easily and bears the driving of bolts and nails better
than any other wood. It is durable if kept either constantly
wet or constantly dry, but decays rapidly when these con-
ditions alternate. It is used in making ships' blocks, and
for other purposes in which wood of its peculiar properties
IS required.

^j^ru-^^l^^^ ^'"' "^""^^ "°* ^'""^ '° ^' ^'■^^t a size as the
White Elm. Its wood possesses the same properties as

->'

241

that of the White Elm but is somewhat coarser and more
durable. Its home is on dry elevated situations.

Ash is found in New Brunswick in several varieties, the
white, black and yellow chiefly, the wood of each differing
accordmg to the soil and situation where it is grown. The
White Ash is a common tree growing to the height ot sixty
feet with a diameter of eighteen inches or more Its growth is
rapid and its foliage beautiful, the trunk is perfectly straight,
the wood strong, tough and elastic. Black Ash is a smaller
tree than White Ash and its wood is somewhat coarser. It
.s a fashionable wood for bedroom furniture, its texture being
very pleasing and is used for a variety of purposes in first-
. class buildings. Being already a valuable article ot com-
merce, its supply will probably not long keep pace with the
demand; its cultivation will likely be profitable. It is used
by the Indians in the manufacture of baskets, for which it is
admirably adapted. The Yellow Ash is similar to the Black
Ash but 13 lighter in color. The Red Ash is somewhat
similar to the White Ash.

Oak is found in New Brunswick in three varieties, the
white, the red and the grey. The wood of the latter is very
durable. The supply is limited.

Cherry is found in abundance. The fruit is smaU and
slightly bitter. None of the varieties attain sufficient size to
possess much commercial value.

Poplar occurs in two varieties, the Aspen and the Balsam
Poplar, or "Balm of Gilead." Poplar wood is verv white
and of light weight. It becomes hard and tough when dry
and takes a high polish. Its principal commercial use at
present is in the manufacture of what is known as Excelsior,
an article used for mattress making, upholstering and pack'
ing purposes, the wood for these purposes being cut into
long shreds. The demand is large and increasing. The
lightness, whiteness and durability of Poplar are causing it
to become very much esteemed for mar-y purposes. It makes-
an excellent paper pulp.

Basswood is found in considerable quantities. Its

242

properties are somewhat similar to those of Poplar. The
natural color of the wood is pale yellow.

Hornbeam and Ironbeam are tough, heavy woods
capable of sustaining great weight. These trees do not
attain a large size.

THE FISHERIES.

The fisheries ot New Brunswick are among the most im-
portant of its industries. They include not only exhaustless
supply to be drawn from the Bay of Fundy. Bay Chaleur and
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, but the yield of so many streams
and lakes that a mere catalogue of the names would be '
wearisome. The enormous amount of a most excellent
article of food available from this source and its comparative
cheapness is not the least advantage which the population of
New Brunswick enjoy, and in a commercial point of view the
fisheries are of incalculable value. The deep sea fisheries
furnish employment to a large number of people, and the
inland fisheries, besides being in some degree a source of
food to the people, attract hundreds of sportsmen annually
to the Province, and the number is rapidly increasing.

The annual catch of fish is worth, according to the
average price at which the fish exported are valued, over
$2,300,000.

The export of Canned Lobster has been prosecuted
largely in some years, and has assumed large proportions.
The market is in Great Britain, the United States, Australia,'
France and elsewhere.

The export of fresh fish, principally Salmon, Smelt and
Bass to the United States, has already reached large dimen-
sions, and is growing every year. The fish are frozen before
shipment or are shipped fresh on ice. They are taken on
the North Shore rivers and are sent to their destination bv
rail. ^

The principal fish taken in the Bay oC Fundy are the
Cod, Pollnrk. Hal'^ HqddT-W Hf>rr* — c-u- j 1 »» .

243

.r"

The fishing grounds extend down to the entrance of the
Bay and around the islands of Grand Manan, Campobello
and the West Isles and into the estuaries of the principal
rivers. The Cod of the Bay of Fundy are a large fish, quite
equal to any taken in American waters. The Pollock, the
Hake and the Haddock are also very abundant. The Had-
dock is eaten fresh but is generally preferred when slightly
salted and smoked; it is then known in commerce as "Finnan
Haddy." The Bay Herrings are of medium size but of good
flavor. The Bay of Fundy Mackerel are small, but very much
esteemed. The Halibut is a large fish of the Flounder species.
Its flesh is white and firm, and though somewhat dry is highly
thought of when fresh. When slightly salted and smoked
it is very palatable. The Bay Shad is perhaps the most de-
licious fish produced in New Brunswick waters. The average
weight is about three pounds. The Gaspereau or Alewive
is a small species of Shad, caught in large quantities. The
Bay of Fundy fisheries are prosecuted at all seasons ©f the
year.

The fisheries in the Gulf of St. Lawrence can only be
prosecuted from April until November, both inclusive, owing
to the presence of ice. The principal catch is of the Cod.
The Gulf Cod is somewhat smaller than the other varieties
taken on the North American coast, but is of excellent
quality. Hake and Haddock abound in the Gulf. Herrings
are found hi countless shoals, and in the fall they are very
fat and cJ excellent flavor. This branch of fishing is capable
of indefinite expansion, and as the quality of the "fall
herrings" is very high, its extensive prosecution would pro-
bably be found profitable. Mackerel, Gaspereaux and
Stripped Bass are abundant, and the quantities of smelts
taken are prodigious. There is, apparently, no limit to the
supply.

Of shell-fish there are found on the Gulf Coast, Oysters
and Lobsters of excellent quality. Other fish are taken on
the North Shore, but those above named are the principal,
6xcept the Salmon.

244

Salmon of the finest description are taken in the estuaries
ot all the principal rivers flowing into the Gulf and Bay
Lhaleur. The fish are large and of admirable flavor, com-
manding a ready sale. They are exported fresh, frozen,
smoked, salted, spiced and pickled, and the demand seems
to keep pace with the supply. On the two principal rivers,
the M.ram.ch. and the Restigouche, hatcheries for the pro'
pcgation of fish are maintained by the Dominion Govern-
ment.

INLAND FISHERIES.

While, as has been already mentioned, the Inland Fish-
enes of New Brunswick are of some value to settlers as a
tood supply, their great importance is due to the fact that
hey attract to the country many sportsmen who expend
iarge sums of money on their excursions. The Salmon
fishing on the Restigouche has a reputation which is almost
world wide, and every year distinguished visitors from Great
Britain and the United States may be found spending a holi-
day in the glorious sport aff-orded by this noble river. Other
streams in the Province are almost equally good, but none
are quite as celebrated. On the tidal portions of the streams
the Dominion Government grants fishing leases. On the non-
tidal portions the right to lease is vested in the Local Gov-
ernment as riparian proprietor in the case of ungranted lands
and in the riparian proprietors in the case of granted lands.
The right of surface fly fishing on v/aters under control
of the Provincial Government is granted to the highest
bidder at a public sale, whereof due notice is given. Leases
will not be granted for a longer term than five years The
leasee is bound to keep at least one efficient guardian of the
fishery within the bounds of his lease. Short term leases
may be obtained on application to the Surveyor-General

THE JUDICIARY OF NEW BRUNSWICK.

Tha Judiciary of New Brunswick is modelled after that
of England with such changes as are necessary to adapt it to

.s<-^

245

the requirements of a new country or as experience has
shown to be desirable.

The Supreme Court has jurisdiction over all causes civil

and cnminal. and is the Court of Appeal from inferior

tribunals. From its decision an appeal lies to the Supreme

Court of Canada and to the Judicial Committee of the Privy

Council sitting at Westminster. The Supreme Court has

jurisdiction both at Law and Equity. It consists of a Chief

Justice and five puisne judges, one of the latter being called

the Judge in Equity and being specially charged with the

Equity business. One or more Courts of Ntsi Prius are

held every year in each county and the Court sits en banc

four times a year. The salaries and travelling expenses of

the judges are paid by the Dominion Government with

which IS also the right of appointment.

The County Courts have jurisdiction in actions of contract
to $400, m actions of tort to $200, and in criminal matters
they have concurrent jurisdiction with the Supreme Court
except in capital offences. The Province is divided into six
districts with a juoge for each district. Two or more sit-
tmgs of the County Court are held in each county every
year. These judges are appointed and paid by the Dominion
(jrovernment.

In all the cities and towns are local courts of limited juris-
diction, and in each parish are one or more commissioners
having jurisdiction in contract cases to $80 and in tort to
$32. ^ Justices of the Peace have jurisdiction in contract to
$20, in tort to $8, and in respect to criminal offences they
have limited powers.

_ Trial by jury is provided for in all cases, but under certain
circumstances, if the parties so desire, the jury may be dis-
pensed with.

Admission as an Attorney of the Supreme Court is allow-
ed after four years study with a barrister and after the appli-
cant has passed an examination. Students holding a degree
from a recognized college or university are admitted after
three years study. Attorneys are called to the bar after one
year's practice.

246

MILITARY ORGANIZATION.

The only military organization is the Militia, con

pulsory service is a thing unknown. Volunteer i, )anies of
Militia are enrolled and are expected to pre!, .n certain
requirements as to drill. The number of thef or '.pauies
is limited. A Military School is maintainc ' at Frede icton
by the Dominion Government. Members ol che School corps
enlist for three years' service.

THE NATIONALITY OF THE PEOPLE.

About one-sixth of the population of New Brunswick is
of Frerjch extraction. They reside principally in Westmor-
land, Kent, Gloucester and Madawaska Couni.es; the popu-
lation of the latter being nearly all French. The majority
of the French people speak English, although among them-
selves they use French exclusively.

The Settlement of New Denmark consists exclusively of
Danes, who number about goo.

There are several Indian villages, but the number of
aboriginal inhabitants remaining in the country is compara-
tively small. They are an inoffensive race and have assumed
the habits of their white neighbors. They represent three
tribes, the Milicete, Micmac and Passamaquoddy.

In the centres of population there is a small proportion
of people of African descent, and also a few representatives
of other nationalities, but practically speaking, all the people
of New Brunswick, except the French, are of English,
Scotch or Irish descent.

THE RELIGION OF THE PEOPLE.

There is no State Church in New Brunswick, all denomi-
nations being equal before the law.

The Anglican church has a Bishop, whose See is Fred-
ericton. Its governing bodies are the Diocesan Church
Society and the Diocesan Synod.

The Baptist church (Calvinist) are a large body. For
purposes of the local church government this denomina-
tion divides the Province into three districts, governed.

<^.

S^-

247

respectively by the Eastern, Western and Southern
Associations.

The Rouian Catholics divide the Province into Diocese
of St. John and tl. Dit e ■ hatham. They have two
Bishops. They maintain be -s numerous church and
eleemosynary societies a id Memramcook College, already
referred to, a hospital known as the Hotel Dieu, at Chatham,
and convents and academies at St. Basil, Madawaska
County; at Newcastle, Northumberland County, at Bathurst,
Gloucester County; at St. Louis, Kent County; at Caraquet,
Gloucester, and at St. John.

The Methodists are well organized. The governing
body of this church is the Conference of New Brunswick
and Prince Edward Island, subject to the supervision of the
General Conference of Canada.

The Free Baptists have forty-three Clergymen. Their
governing body is a General Conference. In educational
matters they co-operate with the Calvinist Baptists.

The Presbyterians have Church organization in many
sections of the Province. They divide the Province for the
purpose of government into the Presbytery of St. John and
the Presbytery of Miramichi.

There are several Congregational Churches in the
Province.

BEGINNING A FARM.

When a settler goes upon a new farm he will, in most
cases, find the forest upon it unbroken. In rare instances
there may be a small clearing where a logging camp has
been, but in the great majority of cases he will find the great
hardwood trees standing on all parts of his lot, interspersed
more or less thickly with Spruce, Fir and, in most places,
Cedar. He ca hire men who will cut down as much of
this forest as he wishes, burn off" the cut trees, and prepare
the land for a crop for $12 per acre. Of course if he does
part of the work himself the cost will be less. The trees
are cut at a convenient height above the ground, the branches
trimmed off, and the trunks cut up so that they will be

248

readily handled after the firsfburn.'' In localities where
there is a demand for "cordwood" for fuel, the trunks and
larger lit^bs may be cut up for this purpose. In the fall or
spring, as the case may be. when the cut trees have become
scifficiently dry and the weather is favorabi fires are set m
the bush heaps and the ' 'fallow," as it is called, is burned over.
If the "burn" is a good one, nothing will be left but the
stumps and larger portions of the trees. The latter are
rolled together, piled up and burned, and the ashes scattered.
The stumps are not removed. The land is now ready for a
crop and its yield is usually surprising. Most beginners
will sow wheat or oats over the great^.r part of their clearmg
and seed down to grass, .and allow the fie' ' to remam m
^rass until the stumps become easy to remove, when it may
be plowed up, and its fertility will be found fully equal to
what it was when the land was first cleared. The clearings
may be added to every year.

In the matter of buildings the settler will consult his
pocket and his taste. Most of the early settlers were com-
pelled to build log houses, and many yet build them from
choice They are made by laying the logs upon each other,
notched so as to fit closely, the interstices being filled with
moss and clay or mortar. The interior may be finished by
simply planing the logs smooth, or m.y b. lathed and plas-
tered if desired. Such houses are warm and cheap, and by
no means unsightly. Log barns may also be erected. Of
late yea.s, or where roads are made in advance of settle-
ments, so that manufactured lumber can be got to the new
farms, many settle, s build themselves snug framed cottages
and flamed barns. This is a matter, which every settler,
going upon a farm, will decide for himself after he has come
To the country. In any case he can provide himselt with
comfortable buildings at a very reasonable price.

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