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uKi'oiiK Tin: I rii:i{ARv a.m. ni> i<>ki< m, socikiv d- (^i vmvs\
'I'yvw .\(i\ iiMi!i:ii. 1SS1
/
J^ M. LeMOlN E,
I'rL'hidfnt, Litkuauv am> Ui^rouK ai. Sdcii-iY, (iiicl)ef
de ill iSociele Americainr dr Franc<\ ^c. &.c.
Meinhre Lihre
QUKBEC
I'.-G. 1)E1JSI>K, I'lJHIJSllKH
•LM6
C ,2-
LITERARY AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY.
'"*■' *^ ** »-* »-^ ^^ %^ %.^<«^ «^ ■*
INAUGURAL ADDRESS OF THE PRESIDENT,
J. u. lkmoine, delivered on
25th NOVEMBER 188L
Subject : " EDINBURG, ROUEN, YORK."
(GLIMPSES, IMPRESSIONS AND CONTRASTS.
EDINBURGH.
" Suclid\iskysi'anileuicIotluMl the height,
^Vlicre tilt' hns:ek'a.stle holds its state,
And ill! the stei'p slope d«)wn,
Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky
Piled deep and massy, close and higli
Mine owii roiosiutic town.''
( Marmion. )
Ladies and (Ientlkmen,
As Presiclcnt, it is niy dtity. a ])loiisaiil one, i-est ussured, to
(>j)eii this ovefiitn>-, oiii- uiuma] wiiitor eotirso of lectures. On
more occasions than one, your indulifeiiee hm made me forget
my rojuiirnani'o lo address a j»ul>lie mcelinlo, short thowi^li it
bo, ovoi- a forei^^n hut not unfriendly lanil, in that haunted, oldcn
woilil from wlionco s|trani; our fathers With your permission
wo sliall dwell for a few moments on the performances, follow
the foot-prinl>, treasure up the cxiici'ionco of those who have
proceeded us; if possible, bonelit by their wisdom, endeavour to
learn from them, let us hope, some not uscloss lessons. A limited
but aureabie sojourn abroad, which brought mo, on many points,
to think :>till liiglier of my own country, has also made more
manife.^l lo mo llian it was hitherto, how many useful hints, how
many teachings, llio records, the monuments, the sights of other
cities can furnish. It is my intention to select for our study to-
nighl throe cons])icuous cities of Europe, in order to seek for
contrasts if any, butwoon them and our own ancient town. In
the course of my wandorin-^ in Kngland, Franco, Scotland, Ire.
land, Eelgium, Holland, iXc, no sites, by their historical sowuc-
ntrs, odiHcos, monuments, and scenery, have attracted me more
than Edinburgh, liouen and York; tiiough of course, I have met
with cities more wealthy, more extensive, more jwpulous. In
fact, there are striking analogies, as well as unmistakiiblo ])oints
of contrast, between these antique towns and the capital of this
Province, which :dso happens to be the most piclures([ue city of
Morth America. A glance at Edinburgh, J{ouon. Yoi-k, may
j)oint out how (he hand of man can heighten the advantages, add
lustre 1.0 the charms which nature has conferred and make of a
city, "a thing of beauty and a joy for over." Possibly, wo may
find thai wealth and population in cities, flow through various,
soniolimes concealed channels; that true i)rogress does not mean
ii wanton destruction of the externals of a revered past ; that
whilst a progre.-sive community is expected to throw ojien its
portals to the fertilising wave of commercial activity, it can be
hel})cd to achieve importance, jtrospority, nay fame, by j)resorv-
ing intact, for coming generations, as sacred heirlooms, tlio mo-
numents of its history, the landmarks of its patriotic struggles,
tlio remains, in verit}', of its former greatness.
Let us begin by a short sketch of the " Modern Athens," the
Queen City of the North — Edinbiirg — who.so quaint old, and
— 3 —
boHiitifiil now, town arc familiar to many prosont lioro t<)-nic;l)t.
It waH my good fortune to view tho Scotch capital under cir-
cumstancos which must over loavo in my mind an imjirossinn nn
lastinassod, 1 dare to say. on
any ])oiut of tho globe. They stood erect, calm, as c;ilm, I would
fain believe, as their fathers had stood on anoiher historical spot,
I had just visited three days previous, at llougoniont, on tho
vast plain of Brussels ; except that instead of the IVcn/.y of battle
lighting up their 03^0, no other frenzy stirred thcin, but that of
loyalty to that " illustrious Sovereign and gracious Lady," to
use the eloquent and recent words of President Arthur at York-
town, our gentle Quoon, who for the first time, I then had a
chance of seeing. Among Victoria's 250,000,000 of subjects, none
1 felt could exceed in devotion tho stalwart volunteers of '• Auld
Scotia," who from every city and hamlet of tho little Scotch
world had, as if a pibroch had sounded on tho hills, mustered
front all directions on tho 25th August last.
Is his loyalty to his sovereign a part of the Scotchman's
strength, ono of tho elements which helps him on, the world
over, in life's hard struggle ?
It is not only in distant portions of the Ih-itisii Fimpire wc find
the Scot to tho front in the field of thought or mart of commerce ;
our own dominion testifies also to that fiict. 1 hope I may not
give ott'ence even in this period of upheaval, when tho tide of
popular rights is surging so high, in saying, en pass((nt, a word
in favor of buccossful loyalty. {Loud applame,)
._ 4 —
That Au/;,'ust wcok was inrlood a bu^tlin^. busy one for all
PMinbnr'^j. Thy iron hon^o had just laiidod my oomiianion siiid
myself, lato at nij^ht, aftor the loii«j; i-idc from Miistoii Hijuaro
Kailway .S(ati<>ii, London, undor tlio sluidow of tliu ^for<;x'OUs
moniiniont orc(;led on Princes street in 1844, at a cost of §S0,OO()
to the man in Scottish literatui-e, I revered tlu- most : Sir Walter
Scott. The tirst sunbeam hrouj^ht me acro,-s the street, on my
bed room window, the excpiisite tracery of this lofty and grace-
ful shaft .
Every object round mo seemed to repeat the name and besjieak
the renown of the famous Minslrel, the " Ariosto of the ISorth " :
Waverley Motiument, Wavei-ley llc»ul, Waverley iism, confronting me— in the
.streets, in the air, above, below, all around me Scott's fame
overshadowed, jiermeated, gloritied the laud. {Ajij>le.) 1 was
loo full of Waverley lore, of Lockhart's lifelike portraiture of
Sir Walter, to bo easily satisfied. An Kdinhurg barrister, dis-
tantly connected witli Scott's family, Mi. Thomas Scott, procu-
red me an e/i/'A«' to Scott's town hou>e in (. astle street (now
owned by Scotch Merchants) and on m\' slating 1 hud i!ome all
tlje way from Canada, a pilgrim to the lantl of Scott and Burns,
1 was })ermitted, thanks to my cicerone, to invade the sanctum
of commerce and to pry into a sanctum to me much more holy.
1 was introduced into the very room in which so much of Scott's
literar}' labor vVdS performed ; the courteous merchant i-eliring
from the table, J was allowed to sit in the very s])Ot, at the iden-
tical table (the furniture iiaving been reiigiou>ly j)rescrvv'd),
where in June, 1814, occurred the now fanKnif" scene of the '' un-
Avearied hand " which had that night startled William .Menzies
and his jolly fellow students, convivially engaged, so graphically
r all
giiice-
(.•s]veaU
Ml. NVii-
, if tilt'
" tVdrn
..• on l>i^
--in l^'^'
lainc
) I was
liiurc of
l. ^il'OCll-
col (i»ow
cuiue all
id Barna,
> t^nni;ium
ore lioly .
^){^ Sc'oU'b
ut reliving
It ihe ulen-
I'l'sevvod),
,[■ iho '• uu-
ni Men/.ies
o;i'a\>ln-aHy
rot'iillod \>y Ijorkliart. (•'') 'I'ho oIonmUmI window in llio yard
ojtpMMU;, iluouj^li wliieh tiio .studoMts looked in, on Sir Walter,
wrilinif at, the tattle wliorc I now sat, is still the same. My eyo
sciiniieil it clo'^ciy. nu'tisiifinjj; the ili-taiiee and the extent of the
diininiiliv>; i^r.'is^ jilo;. in the iitth' eimrt adjoinini^ Seott'-* " den "
as Liicl<|i;iri >!yU'- it .
A his ! hi»vv in niy ehaii^'("> ill iJiM I'MinhiirijIi world duriii!^ tlioHO
sixiy-sevoii intt'ivcnini^ years (1S14-81) and Scolt's memory is
still friirraii;. iiav •'•rceiicr ami fresher eaeh vear ! In this iron
a;^o of uijlitei'iaiii'^in, layiM;j;' a-idi> the intelleelind asjieetoftho
(luestion, liMW luiifli in hard ea ml IIoj ci, whoso nvidein'i' w is llien in
( ieorj(C' Sir.'ii, .-■i.ii^ilvil \('i\v ii'.if to, ;ni(l lu nulit iinitlfs with ( "n-itlc Strci't.
It \v;i^ ji |i,u'iy ot' vcrv youii;!; persons, iiiost ot'llinn, like Mi'ii/ie^> mihI nivsi If,
tlfstiiieil lor till' itiir orSi'olhinil, m'I i;,i\ iiiid tliouiciitlc-i-i, enjoyiii'^ the lirst
Hii-h of iiiiinliood, wi.li litlu" i'i'iiu'ihImmijcc oI tlif yesterday, or care of the
inorron'. Wiifii my coiiioimioM's wonhy lallicr and illicit', :i Iter seeintr two
or tlirec lujlik-s pi round, Icl'i tin; Jiivcailes lo tii> nisclves, tlie weailier being
liot. we !idjonrneil lo a librisiy wliieii had one larj;e window looking north-
waids. Alter e.'iro'i^ins.' lier.> for an hour or more, I ob.-erved that a shade
liad eo'ne over tiu; as|teel of iijy frieiiil, who haiij>L'iied to he placed immedia-
tely op|io-ile lo mysih'and said soaielliing lh;it inliin;!ti'd a fear of ids being
unwell. " No," <;iid lie, " I slmll be well enongh jtresently, if yon will only
let, ine sti wiicre you arc, and take my ch-iir ; for there ix a confounded
hand in sigiii oi me iiere, which hf«s ofien bothered me before and now it
w'ont let my till my g las?) with a good will." I r.)^e to change i hiee-< with liim
accordingly, an 1 he pointed oiit to me thit hand winch, like the writing of
I>els!i:izzir's w.dl, di-iiirlicd ids hour of hilarity. ''Since we sat down," he
i-aid, " i have been watching it —it fascinates my eye — it never stops — page
after [nr^^. is tini.-hed and ihrown on thai heap of M S , and still it goes on
unwearied — :iiid so it wilt he till candle^ are bvonghi in, and (Jod knows how
long after (hit. ll is the .." — " .*"o!iie •«tnpid, t, " ! weii l:no\v what iiand it is" — " I'is Walter Scott's."
This wa til ■ iiand that, in the evenings of thr<.c summer weeks, wrote the two
last v.jliiiiies uf Waverky. Wouhi that all wlio that night watched it, had
[irotited by its example of diligence as largely as William Menzies" I (Loclc-
hnrt's Lift of Sir WnJU'r Mult, Vol. IV, pp. 26-\\ American Edition.)
f] —
worth yoml}' to llio Iniirl of lii>* hirtli ? My obliifin*,' cioerono
cjilli'd my fttlontion to MuscIiuI'm cairn, near JlolynKxl, as well
;i.-i to lliu iniiis ol" St. Aiitlioiiy'rt cliiipol ; wo rainl)Ieil (»ii foot
iImmulcIi Mtuili l):icU uCC'iiiitioii^^uti.' iiiul Cow«^uto to (ira.^s Market,
|)!issiii and the- niimbeiless .strangers, attracted by the review
siiould have left. The little town of Melrose is but an hour by
train IVuni ilie Scolcli caj»ilal ; and at i j). m. on lhatday,we were
comfiirtably enscoused in the (Iconje and Ahhotsfui'd Jiotil, in
vii'W of the lofty, broke'i minarets oi' Melrose Abbey, so
swcell) suni;- in the LiHj of tin: Ldst Min.stret. Wo did not even
wait for the pale n.oon to shed her palo iiijht over tho weird,
limedionoi-ed cloister of .St. Mary :
If tiiou would' t view fair Molrosc aright
(io vi^it it by the pale moonlight ;
For the gay beams of lightsome day
(iild, but to lloul, the ruins grey.
When the broken arches are biack in night.
And each shafted oriel glimmer.s white ;
When the cold light's uncertain shower
Streams on the ruined central lower;
When buttress and buttress, alternately,
yeem framed of ebon nnd ivory ;
W^hen .silver edges the imagery,
An'»t'
l,.Hlo«>i'\>v<-
^.^> Iji'tfUci's ;
>rcdy ; .}'»>'"
.". Insert NVe>''>
'iK.l tt bcil t(»
•,o«»H, tl.ut Nve
jlj-n-ty-soveii
,y the review
,t :vii hour by
aauy.wewei-e
^c Al'l>ey. ^<»
^0 ilUl n<»t even
vcv tl»o weh-a,
ut,
id (lie ;
u'ri grave
Hero in what out intolligont iiild-
ini;- iht^ ehurcli of St. Mary. It is to this (le»lrii<'lioii of ihe
ehureii thai is due tho exeeodini;' heaniy of llie view, for when
tlie I ndrch was re.storoil, t lo (lothic style of archilfclin'e had
rejielu'd iis finest devolopnienl. The orin'inul ehiireli inii'^t have
lieen ji nide erection, when tho whole nionasU'cy was hiiJM in
ten years, for work was not done al lailway spei-d in those day->,
but it woulil not he easy to say how many yeai's were retpilred
to huild tho one .vlioso vei'y ruins delitcht every eye.
In the year i;>84, the Eni-lish, undei' IJicliard II, made an in-
road to Scotland, and on their return the Kiti^ lod;j;uty rejtented tho ungrateful and sacrilegeous acl. It may
he llial the chancel of tho church was destroyed at that time, for
the style of architecture there is tho perpendicular < iolhic. whicli
commenced iti the reign of Iiichard II. The stone usod in this
pari of tho huilding is ditlbront from that in the transepts. Tlie
transo])ls may well he considered as the oldest [)ortion of wiiat
now comprises Melrose Abbey. The nuniastery tit Melrose was
destroyed in 1545 by tho Earl of lletforJ. There In a iradilioii
that tho liUglish, on their way back to I'jiigland at that time,
had actually passed tho monasteries of Melrose and Diybiirgli,
when tho bells at one of these places were rung to (ixpress the
joy of ihe inUiates. Tho l-iiglish, hojiring the sound —were not
slow to come back, when the ji^y was changed into^ moarning.
Tho Scottish Kolbrmation following shortly after, the Abbey
(*) Equal to about £50,000 of our money.
novor rocnerod from the ssinii of tin' niuchMii'li family, every thin^
has been done, and is boini>; dune, to l;eep the ruin from further
decay. Tho monastery buil(lini.':s, were all on the Xoi-th side of
the ehurch ; it took a wall a mile in eireuit to isneloso them. The
i'ul'3rt of the Cistercian order were very sti-ict. and for a lon^- pe-
riod were ri<^idly enforced. Wlicn a time of laxity came, there
wore vigorous etforts made to return to the sti'ictiioss of disci
pline and holiness of life inculcated at tlie first. IJut wealth
flowed into the monastery. TIk^ noMes, slimulated by the royal
cxam])le, heaped benefits upon it ; and tho .Monks, like Jeshurun
of old, waxed tat, and kicked oiV the restraints of ;.i;oi.lly disci]iline,
and holiness of life was foi-i^-o: ten " so said our i^iiide.
The shafts of satyrc were aimed at them, as may be gathered
from an old popular ballad.
" The moidvs of Melrose made gude kail
On Friday when they fasted ;
Nor wanted they gude beef an I ale,
As hint throe of these chapels have been
itirely
roo
tie
ss tor generations, the senaratinir walls have also en
disappeared- The roof over the lourlh and iifth are still entir
What remains of t!io or^ran sere
o.
en, crosses llie navo on a lino
with tho divit^ion of the tiflh and sixth chapels, and from thonco
to the transept, the ( hurch is (piite roofed over Irom nortii to
south. The aisle.-., north and south, are covered by tho oi'igi nu
^r.)und roof. I'hc f(».tr <)\-«'r l!ie the nave and a j)iece of common
— !»
nt thai time,
tor, took down
Q (»n one of the
y by the po.oi>lo
use* in the town.
iinc(^ tl>e Ahhey
Iv. every tlun--
;,„ from further
1,0 North Hdoof
u-lor^o ihem. The
lul for a h»n,i;- r«-
ixity came, there
rietncss ofdisei
,..^t. l>nt wo:iltl>
Mted by the royal
ilw, like Jeslmrun
,t\..mllydi>eipline,
ujui'.le.
may lie
liiive beiMi ii^ed since the Iveformation as |)luces of se))tilture bv
families of note in the neii;'id)oMrlio(Ml. In the sev(\nlh, are c.-irved
representations of the lieads of David 1. and of ids (^Mieen Ma-
tilda, Slandiny; iij)ri!4iil in llie ei^lit ,is an ;mcient Uneehni.'; slone,
on one side of which is the likeness of foiii- horse-^hoes : and on
the ("j) an inseription in Sax'on characlers. It reads tliii-- —
Orate Pro
Anima Frat .
Petre AEKaHii.
" Pray for the soul of brother Peter, the treaMirer.'"
Tile charm of Melrose Abbey lies as iniudi in the exijiiisite
delicacy of the carving-, and the beauty ot' the vai-ious jiarts, as
in the ijraceful syminetry and united u-r.'indeur of liie entire
titriicture. The most, iiei'lect specimen of carviiiLf is pi'onouneetl
by connaisseiii-s to be that on the capital of the pillar whieii
bound- the soiilh aisle on the e;i.-.t, .-ejiaratin-j,- ihe aiie lioni llii>
nave. T'his earvini;- re]»resents the leaf of (lie curly ^-I'eeu-. or
kale; and is so delicate ai.d bt>autil'ui ;is to ri'Suiiiliic ihe hiiesl,
lace, 'i lie pillar on wliieli appeal's this ^pecinuMi of monastic
taste and c-kill, rises on the iionli side to another eapilal. ai l-lie
s]»rin^- of the lofty and beautiful arch, wliicii, with llircH" Dlliers,
suiipoi-led the central tower. From the south ti\in.-epi, whei'e
this carvinii,- is g-eiierally Ih;-! >een. can al.-o he oh.-ei'se 1 :i small
round window. hiLi,h in ihu wall of the noiili transept. This
window, ot which the Ir.icery is (piiie enlii'c, i> .^aul to i-epiesenl
the (./I'owii of Ihoiais," but we niii.-; iiilei-raiil our ^'lili cice-
I'one. It is supposed inai I here were ori-inaliy -ixle^'U aliai's
in the .Vbbey. In this eoriier lie-^, according- lo ihe •• Ijav oi'llie
Last .Miiis|i-el,"' ihe i;'ravo of the f.nnoii-« \\'i/,.!i\t Mieliael .Sco't .
The :.';rave next lo it is helievetl 1<> heliiil oiMr ualpli Iver-, ouo
of the English commanders slain at I in; bal'.le of Ancrum liiver,
Mey(tnd a Ibotpath at the lieail of thesi' graves, on l!u- ii.utii ea-^l
side of , a heap of iVaguieiil -^, is a -^loue wliich v^.i-^ i i'a>oi'ilc -cat
— 10 —
witli Sir Waller Scott, wlicn lio eaino to feast on tlie ^i-ftnd and
viiricd beauty ol llie scene. Under the floor of the cliancel re-
pose the sishos of many of the illustriou.s dead. Alexander II
was biu'iod iiere, as was also Waldevus, the second abbot of the
monastery. The body ol' Douglas, the dark knight of Litldes-
dale, olheiwi^e called the Flower of Chivalry, who was slain by
a kinsman wiiile hunting in Ettrieh Forest during the reign of
David ii, was brought here for interment, after having lain one
night ill Liudeaii Ivirk. James, Earl Douglas, slain by Hotspur
(Eail I'orcy) at the battle of Otterburn in 1388, was also interred
here wilii great military pomp and every honor that could be
paiit I y iiic abbot and monks. The English spoiled the tombs
ol'lliu Douglases in 1514, and for this they sulfered severe retri-
bution :it Aiurum Miur in the following year. But the chief
deposit in the Abbey, and that over which the ruin may well be
ci^nsidered a lUtiiig and ap]»roj»riate monument, is the " Heart of
Jiobert ilie liinue." In the King's last letter to liis son, written
about a iijoiitli before his death, he commanded that his heart be
buried in Meliose Abltey, But subsecpiently to that he wished
rather that it iiiigbt be ,>ent to Palestine and buried in the Holy
ISepulclire. .Sir James Douglas, entrusted with the sacred depo-
sit, set sail with a numerous and splendid retinue. In Spain ho
encountered tJie Saracens ; and being too bravo to retreat, he
was tiverpowend by numbers and fell. The body was recovered
and brougiil back for burial; and the heart of the Master he
loved and served so well was interred, agreeably with the tbrmer
w ish ol the Eing, under the High Altar of Melrose Abbey. The
cii:iii''el is lighted liy liiree beautiful windows; the one to the
east i> tlial of w liicli Sir Walter Scott has thus written : —
" The moon on the east oriel shone
Through sleiided shafts of shapely stone,
r>y foliaged tracery combined :
Tiit>u >vouIdst have thought some fairy's hand,
Twixt ])oplars straight, tlie ozier wand
In many a freakish knot had twined ;
Then framed a spell, when the work was done,
And changed the willow wreaths to stone."
on the grand and
>f the chancel re-
1. Alexander II
cond ahbot of the
knight of Liddes-
wlio was ^hun by
ring the reign of
Bv having lain one
, shiitt by llolspur
i, was also interred
inor that could bo
spoiled the tombs
itlcred severe retri-
ar. But the chiel"
e ruin may well be
It, is the " Heart of
I- to his son, written
.cd that his lieart be
,' to that he wisiicd
I buried in the Holy
ith the sacred depo-
3tinue. In Sp-dn ho
Dravo to retreat, ho
body was recovered
rt of the Master he
,ably with the former
Melrose Abbey. The
lows ; the one to the
bus written :—
e
' stone,
fairy's hand,
wand
led ;
ork was done,
to stono."
— 11 —
The cloisters are much admired for tlio chastcness jind boauly
of the carving. The cloister door is that by which tlie ngcd monk
in the " f.ay " is said to have broiiglit Sir William <.f Deluraino
wlioii he came al the roquost of the Lady of liuccleuch to take
the 1hm;U frcni the grave of the wizard. In the (iothic,iiature alone
was imitated ; hence the endless variety and beauty of the de-
signs. In the ornamented triezc, running along above the false
(rolhic arches on the cast wall, no two of the ornainoiital liguros
are ah"ke ; it is tiius described by Lockhart. " Tiiere is one
cloister in ]»articular, along the whole length of which there
runs a cornice of flowers and plants, entirely unrivalleti, to my
mind by anything olsewhero extant, I do not say in (iothic ar-
chitecture merely, but in any architocture whatever. Uoses and
lilies, and thistles, and ferns, and heaths, in all their varieties, and
oak leaves and ash leaves, and a thou.sand beautiful shapes besi-
des, ai-e chiselleil with such inimitable truth, and such --race of
nature, that tiie tinest botanist in the world could not desire a
belter luu'lus >iccu.s, so far as they go." It is said that the stones
of the floor in front of the scats on the east cover the adies of
many of the departed.
'• The [)illared arches over their head —
I Henealh tiieir ieet the bones of the de..d."
It would be dillicult indeed, to say whoreabouls in ihe Abbcv,
tile dead iiave n(,t been buried. Tom Purdie's tomb, in ii'm-
Chundiy.'ird, near the Abbey must not be forg:)U.Mi -hero on a
large red tombstone erected by Sir Walter, can be read llic ins-
cription to his loyal WoodfWrester, who died on iheL'M;!, (),.|
1821). (=:^)
("■') On till' wo-t siili' is ii!scrii)t(l :
JX ORATKFUL KKMi:MI!liAN(F.
OK
THE K-AITHFIL
AND ATTA( IIKD SLKVRK.s
OK
TWENTY-TWO YEARS ;
AND IN SORROW
II
— 1 -2 —
T'is iinleo'l ft i^riuierteet, and tilled, with
thoir Juniiy coloureil .n'lass, — and you have belbrt' you, what
was in former au'es an object, oT unliouuned rrverence and admi-
ration, to the bravt! — the ,:j;o:> 1 and the true land which Bruce
lu,d rescued from the ban is of th<^ dotroyer; the land which
Wallace had trod"— the land dear to many here to-ni^fht " auld
Scotland . " ( Loud npjil<(nse. )
Wo took- an open oarriuire at the Gcon/c, to reach'from Melrose
to Abbotsford, a very beautiful drive of three miles, following-
the windiui^'s ol' the 'f wee 1, Sir Walter's cherished Tweed —
throui^b an iinduialin;.;-. ]>a--I.M'.d .'niititry. Owin^- to a de[)ression
FOR THE LOSS OK A iir^nud':
liUT srXCKKf: KKlKXf),
TJUS STONK WAS El!i:( TKD
liV
SIR WALTKii SCOTT, H.VKT.,
OF ARBOTSFOKFX
The inscription oii the fJisl sido rnn-' thus —
herf: lies the body
Ol'
'J' II M A S P U 11 DIE,
V\'001) FORi:STER,
AT Ard'>OTSi"ORl!,
WHO DIED '2{mi OCTOBER
ISlill,
A(ii:D SIXIY-TWO YEARS.
THOU KAST IU;KX I'AlTHl'l'l.
iiVKii A ri:w TuiNfis ;
I wii.i, MA vR Tiiia-; itri.Rn
OViai MANY TiUXCS.
MATllirW CHAP. XXV. V. '2]>*t.
— 1.^ —
mtion,
t resr-cH
oiiiifcd
>riious
, with
what
a'liiii-
Bnico
whicli
:inl(l
in the land iind an intervenin;::^ ijrove of trcct', AbbTtstord is not
seen except when you jirrivo (do-o by; there it si t^, graceful and
pictures(jiie, on a tcfra?e tUcintj the Tweed. The Mansion, as we
all know, was built up at ditferent times, iind more in accord-
ance with Scott'8 fjincies than any ro<;-uhir ])l!in. After waitinj^if
t^ioine time for the return oi' the porter ab.s(Mit escorting a party
of American touri.sts, through the O:i.'>llo, our turn came. It was
shall I confess it, with most indescribable feelings, f ascended the
stone steps of the luirrow staircase, h-adiiig to the once ba.sy
haunt of thought above ('uriosity. joy. regret, each seemed suc-
cessively to claim mastery over my jnind. Often hud I heard
it stated tlial Abbcd.'^ford does not come u]» to tiie ideal embalmed
in LocUli;trt"s pages. It may be sd, tor s(jme : especially for
those aceusfnmed to tho (|uasi-reg;d de.-^ign of many mansions of
the l']ti!oei';\cy in the old and in the new world, 1 cannot .say
I experienced any disaj>poiiitment. »'speeially when 1 l.ioked out
on the ru-iiing Tweed, IVom the main window in the Library,
from which (.oniuuihiling poini I could watch tiie circling eddies,
(the river was swollen bv the riiin of the previous nightj and
hear the murmur t)f the silvery >trcani. The clo.-ing sci'ue of
Scott'rs life, .■^u lenderly lecallod by lli^ biogi'apher and triend,
John (Jibson Loekhait, I mo.^tly laneicd i could sue it. "About
half])ast one p. m., on the 21st of September, ' LS'Ji', ) Sir ^Valter
breathed his last, in the procnce oi' all hi.> childreii. It was a
beautiful day. so warm that every window was wide (i[»en, and
hO perfectly still, that the sound, of all otlu'r.-. mont delicious to
his ear, the gentle ri]i])le of the Tweed over its |H.'bbles, was di.s-
linctly audible a> we knelt around hi> boJ. and his eMest sorj
kissed and (do>ed his eyes."
I must proceed - Tlie exteinal walls oi' Abbotsldrd are adorned
with many old carved ^tones which have ligured at (jne time in
very dillerent situati(j!is. On oni> above the vi.-itor.> enti'ance can
be traced the Inscription, '• Ve .>uior> of ^i Ikirk,' atul the whole
building may be called ;i coinjtoKhd d the ( io! i,ic w iiii the castll-
aled, and wilJ e\or lie admired a^ a reaii.sulion ol the jioel's thou
gilt rather than a structure c)l m» much stotm and lime. To enable
strangers to see the interior A\itliOu1 distiirliinj>; the privacy of
the family, tir- lale Mr. Hope Scott built intue rooms towards
' c
— 14
tlic woM, and urrnn^cd Mrit visitors shoiiM enter by tlm oklTEulI ;
so lliat llie Study, )Lil)rary, Drawl n<;-lioom, Armoury and Kn-
trancft Hall, nro now j;iven uj) at certain seasons of the yiar for
llie y;ra.tifir;ition of iho thousands of straii<^ers who eonic IVoin all
]iurts m| tiio earth to visit this shrine The runioiir cirfiilatcHl hy
the jii'oss. that Alil)otsf)r! had reconlly ])asscd from the )to-;sos-
sionofifs ])i'esent owtier. Mr. Maxwell Seott. to thai of Uaron
Alhei't (Jrant. of Tjonihard street, London, is incorrec'. I have
as n»y authority the Harnn's own word. The Kntrance Ilali was
the iii'-^t )iai't of Iho liou-o which was shewn us. '• The floor i.s
laid with hiack an.l whiti; niarhle, the walls lined with old rcdv
])a!:els fvum l)unfeni''',ne Abhey, and the /groined roof paiuted to
(•(»n'es|iO!id. Jiound the e )rnice there is a lino of armorial shields
of the families who kepi the borders, su(di as thenoiii>'lases. Kerrs,
Scotts Thurnbiills, Maxwells. (.Mnsholms, lUli()ts,and Armstroni;S ;
and all round the walls are Inuii^ eoats of mail, pieces of armour,
:nid ctiriosities, or a^ Burns would have put it,
" A ibuth o'auld ni(d<-niekets,
IJusly iron cajw and jinndini^ jackets
W<.udd keep the Tyothi.ans three in t;ickets
A towinon ujuid."
Amoui;- special thind to Mai-io Antoinette; and a suit ofcl')thos at
one time worn by .Sir Walter, consisting- of a broad-skirted
,u!;reen coat, plaid-trousers, heavy shoos, aud broaddjrimmed hat.
From this we passed into the armoury, which runs across the
house, and foi-ms a son of anteroom between the dininij and
drawinu'-room. It contains some curious coiVors and interesting
])ieces of armour, such as the breast-plate of James IV". .itob Hoy's
!:;un. Montrose's swortl, Clavorhouso's pistols, James VI. "s hun-
tini;- I>otlle, itobert Brace's candlestick, (i^ueen .Mary's otl'erin^:;
box, ivc. , as well as some specimens of liidian weapons. The
r)rawini;-r()om is a moderate-sized room, with two windows look-
ing toward the Tweed, covered with a (|naint Chinese i)aper. In
one corner stands a beautiful tortoiseshell cabinet, which is said
to have belonged to (^ueen Maiy ; and on the walls are hung
I
15
)kl Flail;
' and F,n-
viur for
IVoin all
iilaUul hy
K! no-^sos-
ol' l?ai-y Turner, and a curious ]»aititiii!;- oflhelifnd
of (Juocn Mary after execution. Next conies the fiilirary, llio
lari^est room of tho suite about 50 l>y ."iO foci, and containiiiij^
about 20,000 volumes. Tho roof is deeply i;"roiiic(l and einlio-tsod
with rose.e Ablu-yand
Koslin Chapel and in an oak niche al I he casi cixl sijimls
Chantrey's bust of the Poot. Above the lire pincc haiii;-; a full-
lenii;ht poi'traitof Sir Walter's eldest son, painted l>y Sir William
Allan. Two ricldy-carved chairs, from the l)or^■he^t.• I'al.ice at
Rome, and otiier interostinjijj pieces of furnituro, niostiy piescnts
to Sir Waller, are arranj^ed round the walls ; a cii-cu|;;i- table in
a recess cont.-nns many curious relics, such as Napoleon's writing
portfolio, snu If boxes, &c. The Study is a smaller room, next
the Library, also rilleil with books in oak cases, an I in one corner
is the stair leading up to Sir Waller's beiroom. ;inau:;vd -'O
that he coidd slip down quietly in the moriiinn-s. and have bis
day's work linished before his visitors came down to lircalvfast.
In the centre stands the writing table and Icalliei" covered arm
chair which housed in writing — the most iiileresiiiig relics in the
house. In a sniall recess there is anolhei- object ofj)ecidiar
interest— tho bi-onzo ctist of his head, taken afler ib atli. Regret,
ting that tho rules of the house I'ostrict visitor> to merely seeing
these rooms, with my companion we waiidero 1 ab;)ut the garden,
gathered some ivy, and then drove to Scott's lasi home- wore wo
read in St. Mary's aisle of Dryburgh Abboy, the inscription on
his tomb. Drybui'gh Abbey, as the name ini]ilies, was founded
on tho site of a druidical temple — where chiislian missionaries
lived over thirteen centuries ago. The founders were J (ago de
iLorville and his wife Beatrix do Beauch:im[). in the year ll.")U,
Jteturning to Melrose, 1 })ai 1 a second \ i;--it lo the Abbey; we
then took train, for Ed in burg, which we reacliod early. Of all
the intercvsting spots I visited in the metrojiolis ol'Scolland, none
were more so than Edinburgh castle ; the guide, an old sergeant
well up in Scottish lore, received us at tho gale: we followed in
the wake of sumo Scotch volunteers. An old drawbi-idge— bat-
tei'ies for tho defence of whitdi will bo observed on each ll.ink —
H
- IB —
(•rop!JOs ri (]ry fosse, now forming- a capitnl " fives court " for the
nso of llic ijarrison. Tiirnini;' to tlio ri^'ht, tlio fii-Ht ohjocl of
iiilci'ost ;is we trod tlio i-oc^k-o'versliiiiowod " covert way,'" was an
ancient i^^'iteway, witliin wliicli the ,ii;rovcs wlioi'e tlio jioi'icnllis
(lo^ccndcd and the littinus for massiv.; |L,Mto.s may be soon. The
strnclnre ovei- llie "fatewa}- \va.< fornterly a Slate Piison, liavin*j
had distiiii;iiisliod pricoiiors, such as the Mar(|iiis of Aviiylo,
irnmnred in it ; and was last used as a prisoii ahi'iit eit;li<,\ years
a^-o. The two hounds .sculptured over the gateway recall tho
time when the ])iike ot (lordon was Governor, at the period of
tho Revolution. 1'he Aricyle I'attery on tlio right, the Armoury,
with stora<;e for .'JO, 000 stand of arms, dowii a roadway in front,
and the oilicer.^' quarters. occu]»yiiii;' the lessei' heij.;-ht on the west
of the rciclv, i)resent no special fcatnie of interest. We fdlowcda
causeway loadiriii; past these buiMiniis, eiiteriii!;" the citadel by a
steej> roa-l on ihe left leadintr under a gateway. In the palace
court there i- the small a]):irtTncnl in which ihe IJenalia. iho
.•mcicnt " hoiKMir.-;" of Scotland, ai'o .-.hown, and the uclai;'onal
room. with panelled and inscrihed walls,witliin which Mary,(^ueen
(>fS<'Ots i;ave birth to. lames "First and .Sixth." From the window
of the latter ronin :i inairniticont view to the south-east is obtained
^Jlie crdv.n jewi'l- have l.ieen well described by Scott and by
l.ockhart. '• Lenvinn- the courtyard, on the i-ii;hl is seen the Jlalf
Moon Jlattery. with the clock and L;un by which the audible one
o'cUx'k sis;'nal is fired daily i'nun the ramparts. Ascendinij; a
tew slejjs, the summit is reachcsd, callefi tin; Kitij^'s .Bastion, ori
which IS jilaced the ancient cannon called Moris Mei>-. " Many
legendary vioric-, of this piece of ord:tnce exist, but the ]»reseneo
of an alni.)>t identical gun called Mad Meg at the corner of
Friday Market, in the city of (Jhent. gives sup|)Oi't to the F'lemish
origin of tlcj gun tbund here." Her Majesty the (^ueen being
that (la\ expecled to arrive at IJolyi-ood, when the volunteers
review was to l:d iiosioiic iiilc: our oiilii-in,'.;' friend
Mj'. Scoii. pdiiiicd on! lo ii.- in iVunl I'l'lhc pala-.\' :' fuliy cai'ved
lountain, a i'esloi:ition (»f a like structure at Linlilhgow I'alaeo,
and presenting etligies (;f histoi'ical iiersonjiges from early times
'I'be l!!in(Uome railing ("xteriding on both sides were erected
rounti the Talace on the vi.^il of (Jeoiue IV. in J822. in the
1
~17-
-ourt " for Hie
Hi'hI object of
way," was an
tlio poi-icullis
bo scon. The
l^risot), liavinj:!;
lis of Av,ii;.ylo,
it ei.ulity years
vay I'c'call the
the ]»oi'iod of
, the Armoury,
id way in front,
.!;ht on tlie west
AVe followed a
[he citadel by a
111 the pahu'e
10 Ue,i;alia, the
I tho oetai^onal
oh Mary,(^ueen
om the window
jast is obtained.
Soott and by
is seen tho .Half
tlio audible one
Asoendini;; a
i<;'s Bastion, on
Men-. " Many
)iit the ])roseneo
L tiie corner of
[ to the Flemish
ho (^uoon being
1 the volmiteers
CO iii»i iidinittcd
ol'li-iin:- tViend^
■0 :> lV,lly carved
ililhgow I'aUice,
(itii early limes
OS woi'O oi'ectod
n J822. In tho
interior our friend described the historic rooms of tho Palace.
" They are to tho loft, and consist of tho Picture (Jallory or Throno
Room, with portraits of Scottish kinjxs, Iiistoric and legendary,
from 330 B. C. ; of Queen Mary's HediJoom, 8uiH)er l?oom. Pri-
vate Room, Lord Darnley's Room, itc. "Tho rooms and stair,
cases are highly interesting, hut the furniture shown is of very
doubtful authontlcitv. Tho Ahhov is onlv now renrosonted bv tho
ruined nave, some })arts of which, notaldy the western doorway
and tower, and the intertwined arcade on the noi-th wall, aro
of considerable interest architecturally. The contents of the
rooms and Abboy are numbered and catalogued." "We wandeird
around the (iiieen'.s Drive, .seeing thus the greatest extent of tho
Royal Park. By walking over the lladical Road, wliotu-o a sin-
gularly interesting view of tho city is obtained, and thenco
clambei'iiig up one or other of the well-marked footj)aths to the
summit of Arthur Seat, 822 feet aliove the level of the sea, a
great enjoyment is in store. On com])leling the circuit of tho
hill, and reaching again the level of Ilolyrood, the site of Mus-
chat's Cairn — famous in the ILart of Midlothian — was seen. On
the spur of rock overhanging St. Margaret's Loch, St. iVnthony's
Well, a perennial spring issuing from bolow a large stone, and
St. .Margaret's AVell, in the hillside. The Scott monument on
Princes street — the most supoi-b thoroughfare in the city — is an
open (rothic canopy or Eieonor Cross. Many of the dotails of
tho monument aro copied from the ruins of Melrose Abbey. An
internal stair admits to four galleries at ditforeat levels, from
the highest of which (180 loot from the street level,) a particu-
larly interesting view of Edinburgh is obtaine I. In the niches
are a large number of statutes representing characters in tho
Waverley novels ; the best in ]K)int of artistic jiower being that
of Diana Vernon, by George Law.son, a Scottish sculjitoi" residing
in London. This figure is on tlie oiiLsJde niche t
pier. Under the canopy is Sir John Stoell's marble statue of
Scott, having his favorite dog " Maida " beside him. A cast
from this statue was recently made by Sir .lohn Sioell for the
Coiitral Park in New York. Next to tbis monument, stands a
bronze statue to Adam Black, publisher, and once, Lord Provost
and member of Parliament for the city. This is the work of
_. 1ft ....
John TTiitohinson, H. S. A. A few yrlt•(l^ frti'tliiT wo.--f. is soon
rhristoplicr Xorlli's. a Itroiizo stiifuo in wliicOi Sir John S((!p11
has I'pprodiiro I with '.froat siiccos.s ihd nnMc liMiniiio ])iT8onco
of Professor Wilson. Opposile tliis, a i;lanco may ho ifivoii
lo a fiijiiro of Si. Anihvw, Ihn ''Patron Saint" of Scothmd,
l)Iaco(l ovt-r (ho dooi-way of f,lio North liritish Insuranio OfUco.
Tlie hviijje huildinc: with Doric piUars and a noldo uctostyhi
portico i- t!ie Royal Institution, i^ivint; accoininoihiMon to the
IJoyal Society of KdinlMU^'h, liic Scliool of Art, Iho Scnlpliin)
Gallory, and tho Mu.scum of iho Society of Antiquaries of Scot-
hmd. Over the front is a coh)ssal seated statue off^ueen Vic-
toria, in Iicr rohiis, with (ud» and sceptre, flie work ofSir.Iohn
Stcd. in I'oaroftliis huihlin;i^ stands another (Jrecian temple,
Willi pillars of the [otiic orlo fictitslyln
lodiiMoii l(» the
I ho SciilitUiro
qiiiii'ies of Scoi-
i <>r a memorial, consisting
of an Ionic cross, with medallions, of the late Dean Jiamsay.who
was I'or many years incumbent of that church, but i-; best known
for hi.s " Reminiscences of .Sc(»tlish Life and Ohai'acter." In the
valley below stands the Church and Church^-ard of St. Ciithbcrt's
or West Ivirk Parish. This is a very plain editice, built a cen-
tiiiy ago, at the very bathos of art in Scotland, but occu[»yiiig a
site where a place of worship has stood for at least ten centuries.
There are a number of interesting tombs here, with a good mu-
ral tablet in relievo, in memory of Div David i)icksoi;. minister
of the [)arish for forty years, Xapier of .Merchislon, (inventor of
Logarithms) and De Quincey the opium-eater are buried here.
In fi-ont of tbo Caledonian Eailway Station is tho Sinclair B'oun-
tain, much abused as an obstruction to the street. It w.is built
by Miss Catherine Sinclair, one of the six daughters of Sir John
— 20 —
Sin('.luir<)rril)si«r,orilio''Statisli(!nl Acr-onnl," Jiorsolf wcllUnowt)
ftH an niitlioi'OHs. Chailoltc Squiiro, is tiotiooaldo iih containing
tlio fine Donui of St. (Joor^'o's, ono of tlio City I'urihh Cliiirclios ;
and yol more as llio sitc^ of tlio 8i()tti>!i National M(>inoiial to
till) Pi'inci' ('iinsoi't. 'rim I'lpicstrian fi^uiv, the panels il Inst fat ini,'
^Toul events ill tlio I'riiK'c''* life, and thooniMoniatic and licraldic
ornanjonts, arc by Sir John .Steel. The ."eiilptor prcjiariul the
ontiro do. W. Stcvi-nson, A. U.S. A. lioarnin,!^ and Sciiuic(^
arc from the desin-n of Mr. .Stovon.son ; the " Services " were j»i'e-
pared hy Clark Stanton, A.If.S.A.; and the other front ui""iip,
showing- tlio nohility (dforiii*^ their honiajife, is hy \V. Brodie, II.
8. A. The pedestal of red uranite is ct)mpo>ed of rcmarkahly fine
blocks. The lar;;er panels --how the Marria^^e of the (iuecn, and
the o|ieiiin<;' of the (Ircat Kxhihition of 1^51, both ^jiving por-
traits uf many I'mineiit men ; and the lesser j)anols illustrate the
domestic and artistic icatnres of the Prince's caroer. Loavin;^
('harlotlu .S(piare hy the east, and jirococdin,^; aIoii0. Castio
Htreet may bo soon, in which Sir Walter Scott lived and wrote
many of his works. C'omiiig to Frederick sti'oot, the inlorsoction
shows Chantrcy's bronze statue of William Fitt, on u freestono
base."
Ladies and gentlemen, I havt! ])ointod out to you a few of the
leading features of this beautiful capital, which many thiidv, as to
picturesqueness ot' position and HCOJiory, casts in tho shade, ovon
brilliant, unique Paris. Pci'haps tho noblest of all views of
I'jdinburgh is that obtained wdion sailing up the wide Estuary or
Fifth of Forth to the port of Loith or Cranton. " To sec it from
the water, " throned on crags," and lying beautiful under the
calm light of a summer evening is to get a full foretaste of that
rnolf well known
nn (!ontninin;;
uimkIi ('liiiri'lios ;
mil Mcrnoriiil to
iiH'ls illiisti'iUin^
atic ami hci'tiUiic
)V \n'e\)iuvA llio
iiKl lio ussociulivl
on tlio lol'l front
1 \i'o-
K'l- Iroiil ii'i'oiip,
.y W. Hroiliu, U.
'r(.MnarUal)ly Hno
r lilt' 'ens
uj) characteristic features of the city, showini; some of its iMi'4'i;;e I.
rocky, pictiiresipie outlines. " II was my liiippv lot to sci' the
" Moih'rn Athens" during;" Au^-ust's leafy monlh. summer's
crowniiit^ i^lory ; how much I would have liked to view it in
winter's white ^;arh and ramhle round with such a word painter
as Alexander Snuth, whose chromo will (dose this slc'tcii : —
" Edinhurij;!! is complete in its storiel Imauty wiiethcr Ijcneatli
the autumn sun. or while and silent winter snow, \W^ liavoJusL
come in ; surely il never lookeil so fiiir lK>lijre. Wiiat u poem is
that L'rinces street ! The pu|i]»ets oftlie l»iisy and many-colored
hour move ahout on its pavement ; their interest how slii;lit,
their pursuits how trivial 'f while there, ticross the ravine, Time
has piled up the Old Town rid!;'e on rid^-(\ i;i'ay as .-i rr)cky co.isl
washed and worn with the foam ut of it rises ai;'ninst
the sombre blue and frosty stars, ihal U!idislini;-uisiialde ma?*« or
bulwai'k of i^loom, pierced and (jiiiveriuir with innumei'uble
lights. There is nothing in iMirope to mntch that, i think.
Could you but roll a river down the valley, it would be sublime
— tiner still, to placeoneself a little beyond the Barns Monument,
and look towurd.s the Castle It is more astonishing than an
eastern di'oaui. A city rises uj) bei'ire you, painted by Fire on
i
i
fi—rJT
oo
Xi,i,'lit ; liigli in air, a bridi^e oflisjjhts leaps the chasm ; a tow
emerald himps, like glow-worms, are moving silently about in
t!ie railway station beneath ; a solitary ci-imson one is at rest.
That ridged and rhiinneyed mass ot blackness with splendor
Inirsling out at every [tore is the wonderful Old Town, where
Scottish hi>loi'y mainly transacted itsoH". while on the other side
the im)dern I'rinees street is blazing through all its length.
During the d:iy the Castle looks down upon the street as if (»ut
of another wm-ld, stern, with all its j)ent'el\dness, its garnitu)-e of
trees, its slojie of grass. The rock is dingy enough in color, but
after a shower its lichens laugh out green in the returning sun,
while ilie rainbow i^ lirighlening on the lowei ing sky beyond.
How (Lep ihc shadow of the Castle at noon over llio gardens at
its feet, where llie children [)lay ! IIow grand when its giant
bulk i\ud towery crown blacken against the sunset ! Fyir, too,
tlu' New Town, sloping tt) the sea. From (Jeoi'ge street, which
crowns iho ridge, tlie eye is led down sweeping street^ ol'cold,
stately an hiteclure, to the white gleaming villas and woods that
fill the lower ground and fringe the shore ; to the bright a/.ure
belt of the Forth, with its smoking steamer or its eree])ing sail ;
be}'ond, to the Lomontl.-- of Fife, sott. blue, and Ilecke/jl(liisc.)
the chasm ; a t'ow
silently iibout in
;on one is at rest.
ss with s|»leiKloi'
Jill Town, where
on the other sitle
h all its len^-lh.
le Htroet as ii' (»nt
is, its f^'arnitiu-e of
High in eoliti', hut
;lie reliirning sum,
ling sky Ijryonil.
•er the ganlens at
id when its giant
msel ! Fyir, too,
>i'ge street, which
ig >treets of cold,
as and woods that
I the bright a/. lire
its cree])iiig sail ;
1leckeIiort ramble through
tilt! highways and byways of a very antiiiualed — very enterpri-
sing l-'reneh town— the capital tirst of the duchy, next of 'he
province of Xormaiidy, on the lelt bank of the J^eiiie — Kouea.
A city of 1(»2,1:70 souls only, h'ouen ha> made a name for herself
as a manufacturing centre, lier cotton and calico j)riiits, known
as Jioucnnfries — her sugar rellnei'ies, confeclionaries, soap factories,
laniK^ries ; her iron, cop])er, and lead founderies ; leaihcr woiks,
cutlery, dyeing esiabli>liments, kc, have won i\>y her liie proud
surname ot' the Manchester of France. Jler port, thankN to
dredging operations, in the lower Seine, oilers facilities to the
large s'lip.s of every nation ; extensive indeed are her exjiorts to,
and import.^ from, England, Algier.'-, Senegal, Sjiaiii, IVntiigai,
Italy, America. Her shipping inward ami outward' in the\ear
1^75, represent.^ a tonnage ol ."i^JT.OlT lon.s, divided between ;j.4(J7
ocean .>»liips : whilst her et)asliiig trade inward and outward for
the same period, kept employed 5,(.)i;j \es>t-l<, tlitit is a tonnage
of7-IJ,33J tons: a French line ot steamers from Koueii t(.) Cana-
da, is talked of lijr next .summer. Soon, we shall ba\e a direct,
a monied interest in the old French lo.vn.
'The capital of Normandy, now ihe >hire-town of ihe iLjjdite-
iiuitl ot' Scine-lnfei'ieure, vnn boast of an .Vrcliljisboj) itii pre.-oucnn:iis ])r.->u(lly stj-lc their beloved city, rejoices in a society
for the promoiior) of the study of Norman antiquities and Nor-
man history —:i proof, if any were needed, that in Rouen, culture
and rdniiiicirc are not deemed foes. Uoticn from the latin lio-
^Aa//)ai/«s (Palace of iiotli or Venus) dates very far back. The
time \V!;s when Jiomaii sentinels mounted guard in its streets.
Ill the til'ih ociiMii-y, it was ovei'i'un by the Barbarians, who dis-
lodged the K'oinan legions. In 814, we read of the Noi'thern
Vikings, (ji- X 'rnians ascending the Seine in their galleys and
])illaging ihe city. Later on, it became the French cajiital of
the English Sovereigns until Knglish power received a check in
1 IMO. through, (he instrumentality of the heroic Maid of Orleans.
Joan ol' Arc, to wh'.Mn a fountain and statue were erected in 1755
on one of the squares of Uouen, now known as La Place de (a
Fucidlf, a site adjoining to the spot on which she was bui-nt in
l4ol. I'liiglisli swiiy disajipeared from French soil merely in
1 tr>t>, when was fought the battle of Formigny. However, re-
nowned iis a nianiitacturing town. Uouen never forgot what cities
as well as men owe to tiiemselves : reverence Jbr the monuments
of a great jiast. Willi the exceptioji of Paris, no city on French
soil has preserved more curious monuments or more interesting
vestiges ot its early times : her superb churches are the admira-
tion of all lOurojie. The Cathedral of Notre Dame, Saint Ouen,
Saint Alaclou, Saint tiervais, Saint Godard, Saint Patrice, Saint
Vincent, are all in one way or other remarkable edifices,
r
The Cathedral of lioiien. It was erected on the site of a church
previously dcstnnid by lire in the year llit)f), from funds [)ro-
vided by John Lackland; the chief portion of the building dates
from the first years of the XIII century, though some parts such
aa the base of the noiihern tower are older anU belonged to the
structui'c destroyed ill 12(M». This grand old temple of worship
2o
and horticultural
idicine and bibliu-
>i-niandy annals, a
on of antiquaries
sod, is a, tolerably
, It will not have
of Franco, as the
3Joico8 in a society
tiquities and Nor-
in JRouen, culture
fom the lalin Ito-
[•y far buck. The
ai'd in its streets.
iU'bariaiis, who dis-
of the Northern
their galleys and
French capital of
cceived a ciieck in
c Maid of Orleans,
ere erected in 1755
as La Place Je la
she was burnt in
ch soil merely in
iiy. However, re-
r forgot what cities
for the monuments
no city on French
r more interesting
les are the admira-
Dame, Saint Ouen,
aint Patrice, Saint
)le edifices,
the site of a church
f), from funds i)ro-
■ the building dates
gh some j)arts such
nd belonged to the
teni])le of worshi|>
is t()8 feet (i;jG metres) long, 100 feet broad, the tr!inse])t is
1G2 feet i'.i length It contains twenty five chapels; three arv-
in it, i;-!0 windows, on designs most varied, maivelloiisly beau-
tiful, some of them dating back to the 13lh century. It would
req^uire a volume to describe this magniticont Cathedral. The
choir, 108 feet long, contained formerly the tombs of IJichard
C*!, br-uighl to
light the heart aiul a statue of Ricliard ; and in IStJ'i, liic heart
ofthe Ivingt'liarles V. Funereal inscriptions ami tombs are .still
numerous in the Cathedral of Kouen. In the chapclle du petit
Saint Ttonunii may be seen the tomb of liollo, first Duke of Nor-
mandy ; the retnains of William, the sori and successor of Duke
EoUo, lie in the Chapelle Sainte Anne. In another chapel, under
an arcade, is the reclining statue of a bishop, whose soul, under
the symbol of a child, is escorted to heaven by angels with (jut-
spread wings : this is the sarcophagus of Archbishop Maurice,
who died in 1235. There are three or four other tombs in the
chapel ofthe Holy Virgin, of great beauty: one to Pieri-e do
Broze,Comte de Maulevrier, killed at the battle of Monthlery, in
Idtio. To his grandson, Louis de Bre/e, a neat sepulchre was
built by his widow, the beautiful Diaiui of Poitiers. A >p!eu(lid
funereal monument was raised between the years 1518 and 1525
to the two (.Airdinals d'Amboise in tliis cathedral ; two tiia- iigii-
res in black marble, in a kneeling attitude, with bare head :uid
hands crossed, stand on the black marble tomb; nuaier<>us otlier
mausolea. attract the attention ofthe visitor.
Saint Gehvais. — Towardts the north-west extremity ofthe city,
the church of Saint Ororvais is full of interest for the anti(|uary .
F]rected doubtless on the site oi' the chapol, where the Areh bis-
hop Saint Victor placed the relics of Suint tiervais, which he iiatl
received from Ambrosiurf, it has been several times rebuilt, in
the chrypt under the a eharming example of the tlorid gothic st \ le ; it
was biiill ill UiiG, on plans furnished by Pierre Itobin. The
uiiiiu li'jiit is remarkable foj' the lightness and finish of its sculp-
tures ; five uooi's led Lo the interior ; two have been condemned
and closed. Tiie eenti'e dtxjr is surmounted by a bctuso-rclitvo,
whicli iigiiro the judgment Day. Views and allegories Irum
.Sei'i[itui-e oj- llie lives of tiie Saints |jrofusely deck the pannel ;
ana similar allegorical subjects are represented on the other
Uoors. Saint Almdou is conspicuous tbi- its sculptured, ailmirable
churcli do(jrs.
iVlim' Uli;n. — Tid,-5 C'hurch is worthy of being compared lo
the lao-t laiaoii^ t.'alhtulrals ; it was begun in 1318. Its taeade is
ci'owiiea li} an ugi\;d gaileiy, containing eleven statues; among
oihcrs, tlio>e ol' Arclibislio])s Flavins and Ambert ; of Jiichard 1,
Duke of Monnandy ; olh'iehard II ; of William the Norman ; of
Henri li, oT England, and o) Kichard Ca'ur-de-Lion. The main
lower, L'K) leet liigli, is a luotlel of strength and elegance.
Vuu will, 1 iru^L, forbear my bringing under your lujiiee
all these medieval churches. Of the many to me new and pleas-
ing objects I saw, none were more striking than those speaking
relics ul a dim, religious, but not forgotten past.
27 —
["he walls appear to
hvistian monumeut
1 style of architec-
3, which is low and
on is more modern,
scaped destruction,
«iid, dcsiyuod tVoin
is Penni ; the colo-
jright, of a limpid,
ful that tiicy gave
dows of Saint (lo-
■)n the street de la
id g'othic .st\ le ; it
erre llobin. The
1 finish of its sculp-
'e been condemned
by a batsau-rclltvu,
fid allegories Irum
lieek ihe pannel ;
iited on the other
ilptiired, ailniirable
»eing compared lu
1318. lUs facade is
en slaLues ; aniuny
berl ; of Jiiciiard I ,
lu the Norman ; ul
e-Lion. 'I'he main
id elegance.
mder your notice
me new and pleas-
lan those spealiing
t.
Three statues are mot with in Rouen ; one to Boieldieu, the
comjioser; another to Pierre Corneille, the tragedian; a third,
an ei|ucstrian statue in bronze to Napoleon f, it corunicnioratcs ii
visit oi" tlio I'^mperor to Rouen, and exhibits him in the act of con-
ferring the ribbon of the Legion of Honor on an employe in a
facloiy. The tower of Joan d'Arc deserves also meniion . It is
the remains of the dungeon once attached to thi> castle of a war
like l'')'ench Sovereign — Philippe Augusto. For tiie vf-itors. il
has a double interest, as being one of the oldest monuincnts of
(;f tlie ancient military architecture of France - a niiniiilui'e of
the tower of the Louvre, built under the same I'riiiec. ii als..
recalls a]iainfid but honorable souvenir of the dauntloNS AJuid of
Orleans: in the tirst story of this tower, she had once to stand
arid confrf)nt those deadly instruments of torture U'cii in the
middle ages to extort confessions.
We liad also lively pleasure in inspecting in the resLored pan
of an oUl cloister, the liouen Museum of Natural History, oi'
antiquities, of precious porcelain, &,c., some 1-iUO specimens of
extpiisite Wiire from Sevres, Dresden, Nevers, Mousliers, Stras-
bourg, Holland, without forgetting the most curious and uni(|ue
old blue china violin, one of the marvels ol Rouen
'I'his last
museuni is known a.s the Musee (Jeranuqut:, erected in lS(i4. A
grievoii.-> wrong 1 would be perpetrating on the (lui'.in! capiial in'
Normandy did 1 omit noticing its timeitiece and it.-^ lower, 'ii
Tvur dc ia (Iroa^e llo/ioye,. This structure, a square, of -^inijiic
(jiothic style, according to the inscription at the fool oi' the
btuii-case, seems to have been erected between lilhU and liJ'.'H. in
this towe]' is hung the historic silver bell — la cluckc d'lirjcut ,
thus named, because according to a veJieraltle tradition, pieces ul'
silvci' wei'e dro[)ped in the smelting pot. The bell has indeeil a
silvery lone, but no other silver is connected with it exce])I vvliai
W'as raised from the people ti> [)ay Ibr it. It recalls Noi-mau
times, and like William the Cotupieror's curlew-bell, it tolls ever_\'
night at nine o'clock for bed time. It is set in niolion again on
eleclioii days, -peals out its loutl chimes iit night, us a tire inarm.
The City liall unites among other treasures of art, extensive col-
lections ol" sculptures and j)aintings; here the French, Flemish,
l)iitch, Italian and Sj)anish masters are veil i'epre:,eiiled.
28
Let lis liiirry oti ; from Hue de laGrosse Hor/oge, llie street of the
i;;rc':it eloek, one reaches that gorgsoun pile, known ns the Court
House. Palais de Justice. Commenced in 149!), it is now tlic
most sttucly edilice iis u Court House, in France. The Mrchitec-
tiire is liiiit laiowM as ogival of the transition period, hetween
tJKit and tlie J ivnai stance. It haw l»een gradually altered in si/e
andoruuineiitalioii by successive French Sovereigns, Louis XII and
others, to its })reseiit dimensions and beauty. The facade to the
Soiiih, is oin' hundred and ninety-Hve feet in length and is unique
iii .ticliilce'lunil design. The exquisite octogonal tower in the
centre, angular [tillars, surmounted by dais and statues, the
elaboiaieseiilplnres, encircling the windows, the series of arcades,
wliit'li funii a gallery on the whole length of the upper part, the
leaden railing which sets olf the roof, everything in fact is in
excollfnt taste. 1 he statues cliiselled by Lebrun re])resent Louis
Xill. Ann of Brittany, Cardinal George d'Amboise, the gallant
Monarch Francis I, Justice, a ploughman, a Moidc, an artist, in
fact all llieelasses which had a hand in building the editice. Time
preclados us from entering into fuller particulars, but you h:ivo
ciioiigh to judge of the style and state of j)reservation of old and
mcideiMi nioiiunicnts and buildings in the ancient town of Eouen.
Two liandsi;nie bridges, one a light sus])ension bridge, erected
in IS.jO; the other, a solid stone structure built inlSlo, and some
olwlio-c arches rest, on the lie Lacroix, connect the two portions
of tliislhriviiig town, divided by the Seine. The city proj)er
stand> within an arc of a circle formed by a hcM o1^ bouleoards
o[)ciied in HTi), on the site of the old ditches From the neigh-
bourini!; heights of Jionsecours and Canteleu,a full view is obtained
of the spires of Itouen, its hou.ses, public editices ; as well, as of
ihc [)lacid course of the Seine, dotted with verdant isles, stately
siiips, smoking, switt steamers; lined with broad, regular quays,
in view oi iho lofiy chimnies of work&hops,amidst a fertile valley
crowned by green and distant hills.
Ladies and gentlemen, we have tarried long enough contem-
plating the attractive, though artificial beauties of cities; with
your leave, we will lake train for Pont de I'Arche, near Eouen.
i am panting tor a glimpse of the country — its tranquil, pastoral,
green tields. Let us light in the centre of an old Norman village
— 20 —
"loge, lliesti-eot of the
known as tlio Courl
149!), it is now tlio
mce. The iirehitci*-
ion period, between
ually Jillei-ed in size
I'eigns, Louis XII iind
. The fjicado to the
lengtli iuio
and see whether it resembles our own French village>. AVe are
at Pitres(*) — once the seat of royalty — now a modest rustic rom-
niune —the (piiet home of an industrious ]wasantry. There it
lies basking in the scorching rays of an August sun -under tiic
shadow of lofty hills, at the junction of the lovely \alleys of the
Seine, the Eure, the Andelle rivers; the highest ol tinve hiihi
goes b}' the name of tholfill of the two Lovers, la r<>/e r/r.s^ >'ru.r
anmittfi. Latei" on we shall learn why . From a diinii.iitivt' rail-
way station, the highway, constructed of coble stones. vn'.\> uvrr
a little bridge, along hedges, rugged stone walls. ;ind pa.-^iiires to
the small but eminently historic village church. In more re---
pects that one, the landscape reminds you of C^anada, exceiil that
the inhabitants look porer, ruder in their way^. le ^.- e'liicatele. Here, a one stoiy farm Ikmh-c; next to it, a
barn with a thatched roof; close by, peasants in coar-^e blue or gray
blouses, (no mowing machines here) reaping the harvest, with
the same primitive sickle, used for hundreds of years by their
sires ; the women in white ralJues ijdnjjfrees, ca))s, sdbofs. in down t(» short stumps, in order to make charcoal
mnl fagots, — gives it a heartbroken, hide-bound asjieet. Soi-oly
beset and lanky, the tree looks like a gigantic, closed un\l»rella.
crowned by a leafy cap with a fringe of green leaves descend-
ing to a few feet from the soil. Wo noticed these painful delbr-
mities not oidy in Normandy, but even quite (dose to I'aris; one
has to go to England to see proper respect shown to parks and
ti'ces. Normandy however, as a set-otf, interested us by its m:ig-
niticent breed of draught and heavy I'art hoi'>es : they are gene-
rally grey or Mdiite. One occasionally meets with these splendid
specimens of the equine race, in Paris and in Kngland : they lelcli
2500 francs, about £100, each. They were more active and hand-
some, than the Flemish horses, we saw on the quays of Ant-
werp. The huge Antwerp dray and truck horses look like mo-
(*) rhe population of Pitrea is about 1000 souls.
no _
t
(I'^i'fito >i7.ofl (>l(^])liniifs. Lot us I'csiMTic otir rciviow of Pitro^-.
TholiKlo clmroh was diilapiilalod ; its C'liiircliy.'ird ii(>;;'lcf1ad,
o',-('r •uii will) i-aiik ^i'a-;s. very inncli alas I like sonic (tron/ own.
Ill rear oi- in li-ont of the dwoUiniijs, tlic old stylo vc't;'(>(a!ilr and
flowc'i- IhvIs : >nii iiowoi's, rosos, carnations, popios, wdr'/nerifrfi.
)iionies. swoaibi'iar. A trim littlo i;-ai'dun lo 1 np to ilio pirshi/-
frrr or manse ; within, wo I'oand a cdiarniinu;. hospilaiilo (Milii;lit-
oii(>ii. wliitc-liaii'cij (■;//■«', What, a pleasant welcome awaited us,
''aiiodians. wIkmi wo [U'esented our letters of introduelion !
We i'Hiiid ouivelves Ijound lo accept, theeoi'dial invitation of
Jfoiisiriir Ir Ci(r'\ to partake with iiim, of what lie was pleaded to
sivle hi'. ]iooi'. cijiiiitiy t'are. " Pitres, is too distant from K'ont'ii,
said he io)' me lo h:ive always on hand fresh meat, but if you can
malv'e iii' your mind to eat a Norman hai-e. I shall have a ,yonnn-
and t'at one killed.'' Having- readily assented to his otler, we re-
lireil with our worthy host to his (ultivated in Normand}'. 80011 Marie, the extreme-
ly activo and \ oi-y talkative old mcnagirc, made her a})peai'ance,
sayiiiii' that h he added
with a siij,li. Tra\el and exercise had indeed sharpened our
a))p('iiie : my I ravollinfj^ companion and myself, we did ample Jus-
tice, tirsi, lo the jioiaije or soup ; next, to the juicy, roasted hare ;
then. 10 I lie ( ivuyi're cheese, which was exquisite ; after that came
a little dish of hldtujuettc ; then a})ples, plums, peai-s followed ;
Noi'man cider a delicious bevora,L!;e, hrimmini;- over in silvt^r
mni;-s; llicii soin(> prime old Bordeaux was passed round ; a cup
.\iociia cotl'ee came next ; sweatmeats, and -djicfit iwrrt:
,l'e'i)i-(lrri(\ pair ct vlcille (that is ii tea sj)0(uiful of old cciirnac in
daiiiiy Si-vres ^'lasses.) closed the feast. The povsse aiffe, which
had lo lie swallowo,
^•lasses had to meet:) all this for a Norman Ciin' receiving- from
the Stale iiiit iHiO francs per annum, .seemed to us mtirvels of ho.s-
pitallty. siiroir-fidn: and taste. The Abho was not: only hospita-
ble, hiu a I ravtdletl, scholarly ^•enf.leman ; he detailed tons the
annals of Pitres, vvdiose histoiy he hail written. After ex haus-
liuij; his enquiries about Canada, its customs; whether the
iM.giish oppressed tlie I'Vencli ; its population, commerce, litera-
n1
' r(!vi(nv of P'ltro'-.
I'cliy.'inl ii(^;;-Io('tafl,
:o sonic 'tr(tn:' own.
stylo voo'odililc iind
popios, nuirijitrrlfra.
1 lip to lilt! prrshi/-
hospi(Ml)l(i (Miliu'Iit-
elcnnic awnilcil lis,
nti'otlii(.'li(>n !
'Oi'diiil invilation of
,L he. was pk'.'isod to
listanl. from K'oiu'ii,
iioai, but ii' you can
siiall have a ,y'>iin!;-
to his otl'i-r, we re-
xamino't tlio ilowor
veil as a sjieeies oj'
Mai'ie. the extremo-
ido her a}»peai'aiice,
it was," .>he added
>od sharpened our
f, wo did amplejus-
uicy, roasted iiarc ;
to ; after (hat came
is, poai's followed ;
r\>x ovei' in silver
assed round ; a eu)»
Is, and wjii'tit iwrrr
ful of old ('(iii-iiae in
ponsse C(i(f\\ which
Norhutndie (that, i>,
hire receiving- from
) us marvels of hos-
ts not only hosjiila-
s detailed to us the
ten. After exhau^-
loms ; whether the
1, eomrneree. litera-
ture, kc, it was our turn to put, questions about oui* Ikv r.*
own Xorniandy ; what traces, if any, slill exi-ited of !li<' \or-
man invtision in the IHh century ? What was the history of l]i(>
little parish churcli, wliicli wo were told, dafdl biu k rnoif tliai
one thousand years? Why the neii,'hbourinij; mountain was called
the " inn of the Two Lovers?" Our lio>l re)iii"! I : '•[■"'or more
than twenty years T have had charu;e of tliis ]>arish. With a vi.'\\
of restorin<;; the crnmblinif walls of our historic cha]ii'l. I havf
devoted my spare evenintroy('i its
future, an I in consequence of the forts and stradiin's built (o slop
tliese i);iil.>arians at Pontde I'Arche, the life and activity oi'Pitre-*.
centei-ed at Pont dc C Arche. T'is a long story. It was sp(H'ially
a |.rince oi' the C/arlovingian race, ('harlcs ■' Ihe r5ald."wlio
gave to Pitres lustre in days of yore. I'ilres was famour ['•n- it-
mini and coinage, and it is more than likely it was on iin> ac-
count, Charios"the Bald" published there, in Sdt. Iiielaw kiiovn
as the Edit de Pitres, concerning coinage. Piiri's was nl, o .-tlec-
ted l)y Charles •' the Bald " as the meeting place • t' (he hiets oi-
National Assemblies known as '■ ('ouneils of Pitres. "" InSUIi^,
in (he identical little church yonder, which I have i!ndcrtalct*n
to restore, the -ji'Vcnch King, Charles the Bald, held hi'.
States (Jeneral, at which were present tiie A ri'hliishops of Uoucn,
Keims, and Sens, the Bishops of Paris, Kvcreux, Cnutaiu-es, Sois-
Bons, Scnlis, Tournay, Chalons-sur-Saone. JiAon, Mcaux, I roy(vs,
Autun. Lisieux, .Soe/i, Beauvais. fn 8t]4, a still largei- ( ouncil
met thei'(;. some tifr.}' Archbishops ami Bishop- ; liut I mu-t i'(>('er
you to my work on Pitres, for fall particulars. As t) \\w. name
of the Hill, the origin is both romantic and tragic. Long, long-
ago, a i>roud Baron of Pitres, had a beautiful daughtei- : a youth
whoso birth was not noble, had saved her life at a boar hunt, and
.T2
fhiinuul lior liaiul. Tlio Huron adding cniolly to prido, nhsontod,
jirovidod llio youth Hliould. nnassisU'd, and without resting', cMny
hi-; intended to tho top of yonder hill ; ho won ]\'\h .--iiit, I'lit drop-
|i('d dc'id on I'cachinij; tho toj).
" or p.'dpitntion of the iioni-t, " m}' ronipanion sui;'i!,estod : "
Wlu'iiuT llic youlii was too weak or his inovwratii loo fin, our
iiosi could not s;iy. After such a catastrophe, Mtullle douijtlcss
ri'tiri'il lo ;i rioislor.
T,adi(> and (lentlonien. — T have deserihed, su-entleman from Pitres hinded on our -lioros and
hoeanie a ''auadian Seiifnour; I am one of his lineal deseendanls.
\a'\ us reeross that I'ebellious, inu^uiet Eni>;lish (dianiiol, a terror
lo all those unpi'ovided with such comnu)dilies as ''sea loi;;s."
Nor will it 1)0 to (hat ureal Babylon offog bustle, wealth, intoUecl,
iasIiioH, iio])ulation and sijualiil j)ovei1y, liOiulon ; nor is it to
those marvellous and smoky hives of human industry, eomnieroe
or shippini^. .Leeds, Manchester, Shetfiold, Livoi-pool, that we
will direct oui' steps. (Jh ! no. We sliall from I'^uston S(juai'e
Station ;ake train in the fleetest of I'in^dish railway.s, the Flyin^i;
Scotchman, ocior Euro and allow the steed that never tires, to
watt us at the lale of a mile })or minute or so, over hill and dale,
acros.- lawn and hedgerow, high above housetop, high above
river, through long, dark tunnels like Tjcfroy's, into the most
noted cathedral town of Merrie England. Come, wo shall pene-
trau' wilhin those famous walls of York, bristling with the me-
mories of soige and battle, witlMn tho;so grey, lofty midieval city
gates (bars as they call them) from whose lowers moretlian one
nobleman, highwayman or murderer's head, ghastly and grining,
looked down on the gladdened or sorrowing crowd below. If a
sight of lanious oUl York has been to you as from our early
yeai's, :' was lo us, ;i lu)])e, a dream, too good scarcely to bo a
reality, come we. shall ascend and ramble round these circuitous
walls. portcullis and bastions; follow in the wake of an old friend
by many here remembered, Major F. Lees, formerly an officer in
our garrison, now a resident of u city as picturesque as our own:
— nn —
to pvido, iissoiitcil,
lioiit restiiii,', carry
I liits ,->uit, I'lil (hop-
ion siii:;i!,oHtoil : "
ivmmtit (oo f'ai, our
), MtidHc. (l()ul)llcsH
ied one hour and thirty minu-
tes, then sat down and Prof. John Harper, Ji. A., rector of the
High School, moved a hearty vote of thanks for the very enjoy-
able literary treat which the President had furnished. Tho llou.
(f. Ouimet, Superintendent of Education, seconded the motion
in a neat speech. {Momin'j Chronicle, 'ZSth Xov.)
■^■\
YORK. (*)
Qnrrn Mnrrirtrd : — " Wolcnrno, my Fjord, to this tiravo town nf York."
A.'. Henry VI, pi. ^, .S'«enr 'J.
Ladies and (Jrntlembn,
Wlioii lust wo mot in tlio.so rooms, you were kind onoii^'li to
act'ompiiny mo in a nipid excursion throu-fh Edinbur^li, tho
heivuliful — tlu^ laiul of Scott and Burns, of ill-stai-fiMJ (Juocn Mary,
of sicrn Joliii Kno;:. Wo then <'ommittcd ourselves lo tlic well
known morcios of tlio Rnj,'lish channel, from Now Haven to
.Die|)])0-— (lie l>usy littlo sea port— once dear In Juciiuos Cartier;
wc next rambled round the Manchester of Frances, thrifty, anti(iiio
Rouen ; rtnully, if you reci)llec,l, wc settled down lo a Norman
lunclieon at Pitres, neai- tlouen.
Wp shall now with your permission i-etrace our steps to Al-
hion's shores '-the land of the Brave and the Free." and iMke
train for the classic, historical ciithcdral town of York ; thoui,'h
before enteriiii; it you will allow me to s;iy a few words of that
Kden of Kiii^land — the lakeland of ( 'umberland andWestmorciand.
In visitiuii^ Britain it is there you must i;o. in order to woo na-
ture in some of her coyest— most seductive— most lender as]iects.
Wluit a contrast for ono, fresh from the festive woods, sino-inp;
waterfalls, trani^uil, moonlit lakes of Cumberland, to o-o and
contemplate the solemn f,a*andeur of York Minster — to feel the
hushod, deathdike silence of itnS sonibro crypt. — to realise the
awe enifonderod by the sound of ono's footsteps, repeated through
this populous city of the dead, in the .surrounding vaults !
Windermere, Ambleside, Grasmere, Coniston, Ullswator, Der-
Avent water, Keswick, had just then revealed to my dazzled
view their wonderous land8capo.s, some ot their entrancing sou-
(*) Tlie portion of this ndclrcs.s relating to York was delivered on tiie 'ilst
December 1881.
— m ■■
vetiirs. The Trosacks of ScoUaiul, I could imagine, miolit Iteal
Lakeland, by (lie height, the boldness of their peaks, the extent
of their land-locked firths, but in picturesque beauty, no\-er !
Stirrir.g sights had crowded on me, at Grusmcrc, sweetly sung
bv Felicia llomans (=1=) and by Harriet Martineau ; I had stood
at the fool of Wordsworth's grave -culled a sprig of ivy from
his thickly-f'eslooned house-gable at Rydal Mount— gazed at the
iomb of Jlartk-y Coleridge in the little rustic churchyard at Gras-
more, close to its whimpering burn.
On a wooded knoll, I had viewed Greta Hall, for years South-
cy's pleasant retreat close to Crosthwaithe Church, at Keswick,
where repose his remains- the resort now of pilgrims trom
most distant hinds. Greta Hall, was pointed out to us, when our
carriage rumbled over Greta Bridge: a pretty, limpid stream —
our good friends across the sea, call it a river !
Memory iiud brought me in communion with those sweet
^[ngyi-s — now ._tJK;ir liome-sorrows— their world-wide fame, 1 had dwelt
among them, taken possession of them ; as it were been subjugated
(*) Mrs. Heniitriri thus writes oi'Grasinero Valley :
" O vale and lake, within yon nioiuitain urn,
Smiling so tran(iiiilly, and yet so deep !
OlV doth your drtaniy loveliness return,
Colouring the tender shadows of my sleep
Willi light Elysian ; for the hues that steep
Your shores in melting lustre, seem to float
()a the golden clouds from spirit lands remote ;
Isles the ble.it ; and in oin- memory heop
The iilaee with holiest harmonies !
:57
inaginc, miglit lieal
■ pealvH, the extent
uo bciiuty, never !
ncrc, sweetly sunif
ncau ; I had stood
spi'i;^ of ivy from
oiint — i^axod at the
jhurchyaid at Gras-
dl, for years Sonth-
hureh, at Keswick,
of pilgrims trom
)ut to lis, when our
y, limpid stream —
)r!
I with those sweet
ather-crowned hills
Ihereal beings, had
their songs — their
fame, 1 had dwelt
'ere been subjugated
in urn,
I
rn,
leep
steep
I float
i remote ;
H'p
by their own romantic atmosphei-e. T' would be hard, my friends,
even for one not to the manner Itorn, to feel insensible to the
witchery of such association^~to -^oal his soul against the soft-
ening inlluenco exhaled from those homes so charmingly sung by
Mrs. ilemans:
" The stately Homes of England,
How beautiful they stand
Amidst their tall ancestral tr(!es.
O'er all tiie pleasant land 1 "
For a loverof the country, one who for years has revelled in tlie
sweet ititimucy of stately trees and fragrant flowers, t'is harder still
to approach, or, once onjoyo 1, to (juit unmoved some of these
hospitable english manors (it was our good foi-tune to enter more
tiian one) full of cheery, family memories ; biisking in vernal
bloom, i-esplendent with sunshine and foliage ; adorned — such as
Englishmen know how, — with velvety lawn, cricket and tenuis
grounds, ilrives, pond.*, helges, far-outsj)r;adiiig oaks -graceful
elms, venerable yews — and t,hat superb denizen of Knglish jjarks
— the cojiper-beach, imported, t'i? -.aid, in Britain I'V the Xoi-
mans. Of this truly gorgeous tree, 1 saw some excellent i-epre-
sent.tives, amoiig other spots, at two country seats, wliich will
long remain gi'een in n y memory : Rothay-lIoliTie, next to Ca-
non Bell's picturesque dwelling (^sorae here nuiy reniomlier hear .
ing last summer this eloquent divine at Quebec) at Auiblcside,
the summer residence of [A. Col. (lodfrey Rhodes and, at Aconib
I'ark, York, the lealy manor of Major b'raidc Lees, late of the
2r>th Queen's Own Borderers.
After leaving the train at Lake tide station (Newly Bridge) at
Windermere, anciently called Wyiuindermere, the laig'esi ol'thuse
sheets of water, as Wordsworth iias iL :
" Wooded Winandermere, the river Lake,"
we ascended in the itailway ferry steam launch, the (Jneen
of the Liikc, to the fast expanding town of Ambleside, once a
lioman post; Ambleside, the ''village of L^ine Groves," I might
udd, fronx my own observation — of the rooks and roaring ghylls
and Wuterliills. Swil'ly indeed did we sweep over Windermere's
— f{8 —
clear, coo!, pellaciil — tl)'o to tlie swimmer, Ireiichorous waves; a
liortioii oi'the tri[), llio mist descending from Lasswado and llcl-
veilyn and other lowering lulls, drenched us; the remainder oi' the
voya,ge, our tiny steamer, was touched by the last jocund rays
of the setting sun ; soon we saw Luowood and Bownoss B.iy in
their jicivnuial, sylvan beauty, doubtless, just as they were on
that serene inorning- of May 1S25, which witnessed Canning's,
Scott's, Houlhoy's, Wordsworth's and Wilson's memorable re-
gatta, Uiider the giiidancc of the "Admiral " Christoj)her Xorlh.
i)y viruie of the woi'd j»ainting of that glorious old master, among
thi,' fleet, graceful yalchs, furrowing tlie lake at sunset, I almost
jiUicied i couid conjuie before my mind's eye, the EiniiKi, (he
^\uitilu-'i, the ii'azeUe, the Ospny, ihaGarnet and other •' felicitous,
whilo-wiiigi J creatures" immc-talifjcd by ihe ehniulint I'rofessor
un tliai auspiciouo occasion.
[i was fresh from (he enjoyment of tliis biythe. fairy laiul, this
ilaii.ly. hike sfciicry that the inj])ressive spectacle ani! hallowed
souct'inrs ot'((uaiiit, solemn, metlieval York came trooping on my
eager gaze.
Y(.)J{K — EliORACUIM.
" York, York, for my monie,
Of all the Citties that (!ver i see,
F(ir nieri-y pastime and companie,
Dxcept the City of l^ondon."
York, probably the mosi ancient city in J^ritain, and accoinl-
ing \() hi>>torians, a flouri.vhing place two thousand years ago, is
lhecaj)iial of tlie largest county in Engiaiid — Yorkshire, and the
most celebrated town ot the North of i'Jigland. A city of (JO, 0(10
souls, it sliuids on bc;tii sides of the little river Ousc, which
winds its wa}' to the jliunber.
(iikc grctil Loii bill, York boasts of a magnilicent l.\\\d d-ii'c liinl al the removal <»f its gates and city
iichorous waves ; a
jasswado and llol-
c rcmaiiidoi' of the
J last jocund rays
Bow n OSS Bay iu
as they were on
.nessed Caii)iini;"'s,
I'n nieiiiorable re-
!hrititoj)her North.
old nuister, among
it sun«et, I lihuost
e, the Bintiui, I he
other •' I'elieitoii.s,
eloquent I'l'ofes.sor
he. fairy hiiul, tliis
taele ani! hallowed
le trooping on n»y
— 89 -
walls, might consider himself lucky, if he should escape " hang
ing.
Iritain, ami accord-
isaud years ago, is
Yorkshire, and the
. A city of (jO, 0(10
I'iver Ousc, which
icent Loi-d Mayor;
I ar('hljisiiv>i) ; like
cal souvenirs and
cepl that in York,
Is gates and city
York lies about midway between London and Edinburgh,
being 11)8 miles from London, and 201 miles from Edinburgh.
Its new Jiailway Station, built on a curve, in the Italian style
of architecture, is the handsomest Station in England and the
largest, being 800 feet in length ; that is 102 feet longer than
the great Midland Staiion, next to the Charing Cross Station, in
London. It has a lofiy vaulted donii.', elegantly designed and
decorated with blue glass. 1-4S Itailway trains rush daily through
this superb structure, of which che city is justly proud. Like
many other ancient towns, York's annals blend the legendary
with the historical clement.
Geolfrey of Monmouth, attributes its foundation to I'^braucus,
a King in Britain, about the time that D.ivid reigned iu Jud;ea,
Ebraucus, called it after his own name, (J.VEUii-KBHAnc, the city
of Ebiiaucus. a thousand years later, it was known to the llo-
mans as Eboracum. Commentators are not agreed as to how
the name was changed to York, in Domesday Book it is writ-
ten Euervvic — this is supposed to mean a town on the Lire, which
name the rever Ouse bears at its upper ]»art. Worsae say>, tiie
BriLons called York, i'i.'VBivUoic; the Anglo-Saxons, Kokouwic, arid
the Danes, Jorvik : which seems to liirnisii tiie derivation of
York, York for centuries was a fiourishing Roman city, and the
foundation ol" Roman Ynvk probably dates from the ye ir T'.',
when Agricoia by the subjugation id' the lirigautes, conijWetjJ
the contj^uest ol" the northern part of Britain. "This illusirious
commander, we are udd, made this city one of the chief stations
on his line of march to tiie n.nlh, where he commenced building
the chain ot forts, afterwards completed by lludrian, and called
the Bicts Wall. In A. i>. 1-tO, when the wall ol" Antinonus was
built, i'tolemy mentions Knoracum, as being the heaa-(piariers
of the sixth legion — '' I^egio Sext;a V ictrix ■— traces of whose
occup;ition and residence in the city ai"e tuund (;ontiiniing during
a period of three centuries in A. D. 2ti0, Severus, then l'ini[)e-
ror, arrived at Eboracum, accomjjanied by his son Caracalla and
Ueta, to repel the incui'sicnis ol' the Caledonians. The latter was
left in Vi>rk (then, probably, the chiet city of the whole [trovince
.'si
11^^
-40 —
of Hvitiiiti) to uilmiiiislei- justice, aided by Pajiininims, one of the
iililcsl lawyers of ancient Home. Severus, after his return from
a campai^-n against the Picts, died in YorU on Fehruaiy llh, A.
1). 210. Tliis period was perhaps, the time of its greatest sjilen-
dor. Eboracum was at that period dislinguishe I hy the presence
of til') three most learned jurists in the IJoman I'-m]»ii'e: Uipia-
nus, Pauhis, and the more celebrated I'apinianus, the Papiniaii
Prefect, who was aftei-wanls ])ut to death in ilome for refusiiii;'
to ])ronoiince an oration exculpating Caracalla from blunie for
the murder of his brothoi' (ieta. The imperial palace is su|)posed
to have occupied Ihe site, commencing near Christ Church and
extending down (ioodram gate, St. Andrews gate, anse to Acomb." How often have 1 driven past tlie s])ot,
in July. August and S-epte.iber last, on returning from an anti-
quaiian ramble, through ll;e ruins of Clitt'ord's Tower, thi-ough
the moss-mantletl remains of St Mary's Abbey, or of the .Multan-
gular 1'ower, or ;iloiig some of tiie narrow, crooked lanes of
York which with the heights of Scarborough, reminded me
strangely of dear old (Quebec. Let us proceed :
" On the division of the roman Hmpire, between (ialerius and
Constantius ('lil(U'U>, JJrilain fell to the sh;ire of the latter, who
fixed his residence in York, where he died two years after his ar-
rival, A. 1> ;>(Hi. The body of this Kmporor, like that of .Seve-
rus, was l»urned, and the ashes carried to liome. His successor,
Constantine the (treat, was immeiiiately proclaimed Enijieroi- by
the army at York, where ho was at the time of his father's death
Constaniine immediately left for Gaul, and with him the
liistory of Yoi-k, during the Roman occtipation, which had lasted
nearly 40(» years, ceases to be important, a.s the troops were gra
dually with drawn."
-41
iniiiims, one of tlic
)!• Ills reUini i'viiii;iii
Rome f'oi" I'efVisiiio'
la from blurne for
palace is sup[»oseil
Jlirist Ciiurcli and
gale, t[U(\ throiigli
illeil in Jill aiK'iont
and the ashes con-
ilaco wliere the in-
one of thi'ee emi -
ty, near the villa^-e
ution of Severus's
iven past tlie sj)ot,
ning from an anti-
I's Tower, through
y, or of tjie Multan-
crooked lanes of
igh, reminded me
jd :
ween Galerius and
of the latter, wlio
) years after his ar-
, lilce that of .Seve-
LO. His successor,
aimed Kmjieroi" by
if his father's death
ind with him the
I, which had lasted
10 troojts were gra-
The extent of the Ancient City of l']horacum has been distinctly
tr;.ce 1 , It was entirely on the left bardv of the Ouse, anil formed
a I'ectangulur town enc/losod by a wall with a rampait mound of
eai'th on the river side, and porha]>s, ii fossi' without. It may not
be out of place to repeat that the old city wall has been religiously
pi-eserved, as well as the City t^ates or Bars as they style tlicm.
and that though the wants of commerce oi- the ntiletarianism of
the age, have been attended to, he would indeed be a bolil man.
■who would dare suggest the removal of those snci-e I walls and
grim (iaies of Vork, which each year attract to the city tliou-
hsand and thousands of visitors from all parts of Miii-ope and
America.
J subjoin here a graphicsketch of York :
" Not weak, however, are the visible and tangible proofs of
Eoman occupation, for though there is no great gate still stand-
ing as at Lincoln, there is probably no Knglish city so full of
fragments of wall, of pavements, and of monuments to the inva-
ders. About seventy acres ot the centre of the pi-esent city, en
closing a rectangle of about 550, by 050 yards, foi-med no doubt
the iioman camp, in the middle of which, again stood the Pru'-
torium, afterwards the imperial )»alace, the site of which is near
the ]iresent Christ Church. Of their monuments now above
ground the " multangular tower" near St. Leonard's lEospital,
which is a ten-sided building forming an angle of the K'omaii
wall, is far the most interesting, especially as it still bears on its
inside some roughly scratched legionary inscriptions. In the
hospitimn of the abbe}' church, too, there are a tine p;ivoinent
re[)resenting the seasons and various altars. The long .Saxon
occupation which followed was, as is well known, sadly intiM-r-
upted by tlie Danes. It was near here that Ifagnar LoHu-ok was
so impoiiticall}' cast into a pit full of snakes, an act which was
bitti'rly revenged In York, too, Si ward, sick to death and \w\-
ing his strength begin to pass away from him determined to die
in harness, and sat up to do so cIoiIkmI in armour and with a
8])car erect in his failing hand. York was in fad, at one time
almost wholly ])opulatod by the Danes, anil plenty of proof ot"
their occu])ation maybe fouml in the numerous " tboi-jji's " in
and al»(»ut the «dty. It took two years after the Conqinv-t tor the
H
— 42 —
^S'oniuiiis to conu' in force Colore VoiU, but when tliey ciiiiie the)'
h-Ct theii" iiiiirU, lorn >hoi't, shMrj) buttle outside iho walls nunJo
\\ illiiim, w lioeomnKiudccl in person, master ol' the city and castlo
which he I'oiiiilod slron-^lv. The J)anisli iidiabitants, however
iff '
did not talve i^iiidly to their Norniuu cousins, to whom tliey were
l)ad iH.'ii;hiiours, anil whom they cruelly uuno}'ed from the cover
ali'ordcil lluni ly the Forest of (ialtres, which extended rig'ht Uj)
to the clly walls. William had to come back the next ^'ear to
slrtiii;llien his garrison, but in 1U7(> the townsmen, aided by an
ini].iiiit(l Jinny of iJanes seized and sacked he castle with terii.
Iile slaunhu r, not a Gorman escajiing. The C'onqueroi-'s savj'.ge
omIi on healing the news is matter of history, us is how he kept il
.Ju>L alit.r CVeur-de-Lion"s coronation the castle was again the
.-ctiie of a grue,-ome tragedy, fi)r a number of landless knights
anil olliL'r lir(d by tire anil ^word. They burned the •' starrs," and
penning uji the Jews in the castle, were about to murder and
plunder them in detail, when most of their victims with des-
jteiate loiirage forestalled them by burning their jn-operty and
killing their faniilie.> and themselves. With so many bloody
nienii.iies liaiigii.g rouml the castle there is little wonder that
like the Tower ol London, il luid its ghost- It was a curious one
creeping out under the door of a porch in the Clillurd's Tower, in
the form of a -iroll oi' paper (was it a - starr " ?,j then turning
into a nioiilvey. and then into a turkey cock, as may be read al
lenglit h) all eiiriou^- a^ lo vlenionology and witchcrait, in Sir John
lkeresby"> ineniuii.^. Une can hardly touch im the noticeable
things w huh haj)pened at York in hiier ^ears, lijr except London
puilialily no city ha^ had such asuccessiuii oi stirring incidents,
li wnih. iw iee gave breathing time to the unlucky second i'.dward
~- atier his aeieals at Lannockburn in lol-i by the iiruce and in
Wvsl. lii.s .-on inarried 1 hilijijja of lluinault in the minster hei'e,
the Hiariiage festivities of the two children being celebrated with
the jiiofii^ol niagnilicence for three weeks, if we believe riois-
saii, liU weie siidly nian-ed at their tmish by a bloody quarrel
l/eiuecii liie liilie bride'.- followers and the citizens, in which
abiiui eigi.i hiii.ilie>i men wer , killed, i aier on i'hilippa, no
longer a ehiid. bi ought here the fJi'uee, taken prisonei' by liei' at
' ''-I
4;?
len tlioy ciimo they
'iiie (lio walls made
(lie c'ily and castio
labltants, however
to wlioin the}' were
'jed from the covei
extended I'ight up
C'l< the nexL yenr to
snien, aided by an
le ea.stle with ten i.
(-.'onqiieror's >av.".ge
a.s is how lie kej)t it
•a>tle was airain tlie
of hindless knights
rVs seized the ojipor.
II to try to wijte out
1 the •' Starrs," and
ihout to murder and
ir viciinis with des-
tiieir jH'operty aiid
ith so many bloody
s little wonder thai
t was a euj'ious one
Cliltord's 'i'ower, in
J' " '^,j tlien turning
, an may lie read ai
LeheraJl, in .Sir Jidiu
li ou (lie iiolieeablc
, for except London
1 stirring incidents,
eky second i'.duaid
L)y the Jiruce and in
in the minuter here,
sing celebrated with
il' we believe Krois-
by a bloody quariel
) eilizeiiH, in winch
■il' on i'lulippa, no
I jtrisoner by her at
Neville's Ci-osH ; and in the next century the city saw the, to
cili>;ens. almost incredible sight ol'a [irelate beheaded, ti»r a :-hi'.'-
pe, who wa-. than Archbishoji ol' York, having meiidicd willi one
oi'thc lY'i'cies' plots, sutt'ered in a lield near (.'lemeiithoi'iie.
Haifa eel. lui'y later nuw l?ic*hard Plantageuet's lie:ul --luck on
Mieklcgate I5ar,
So York may ovcrlo(«k the towr, ol" York,
to be taken down reverently next year when the tallies W(M\;
tiiiiicvl at Towtoii . When the Wars ol' the lioses wer(> over,
more pleasant things happened here. Henry V^Jl,so(.!i idu-r iiis
coniiiati(jii had a right royal reception at York, with jiageaiiis
innumerable, and galleries across the streets, whence *' sweet
cak(!s, waters, and comtits in (quantity like hailstones,' were
thrown, in humble imitation of the Carnival at Venice, Lambert
Simiicl sought lielp from Y'ork in vain, for the cili/.eiis were
loyal, and later on were rewarded for their loyally by die i»lea-
sant sight to north country eyes of the hacked and arrow-pierced
Corp:-e of James of Scotland, sent here after Flodden. Xe.xl we
catch agli!iii)se of Wolsey, named Archbishop o( York, biu never
resident here or even installed, for the king [)i'(idcnlly -loppi-d
the iii-iallation very shortly before the day fixed I'nr liie i'ci\ -
moiiy by having him arrested for high ti'eason. /v'/i roatf from
Scolhiiid (o his pleasant Lnglish inheritance, .lames 1 -iuved
here Mnne little time, and with his own hap])y kmu;k !')!■ niaking
himself ridiculous, signalised his stay by taking achildi•^ll liking
for a l(;eal kind (d'cakc called "main bread," and b}' cnariie'eris-
tically endeavouring to thrust it down the throat- of tbi^ iiiliabi-
tanl> !y specially oi'dering it- manufacture, and by aiiatlic.'n;ai-
sing ilie still jiojiular " spice bread," almost a^i violenll\- a- i,e
did tobacco. The beginning of (.'harles I's Iroiibles fouud liiin
at York, for he went there to meet the Covenanters ;ii lii:.,',), and
hi'ld n ii'ieat Council of hi . peers there in lHhK 'Iwn vears later
he lelurned, and, worried almost to death for want ■)!' fimU , nd
friend-, was di-iven to stint his lalde and to copy despatches wiih
his own Jumd lor want of a trust-worthy secretiry. I'iie icnai
palace was on the site of St. Mary's Abbey, and by a gruu i.'''iiy
of i'.ili! wa.> al'icrwards turned iiiln a l)!i;id ^cliool. while !lie pr.n-
tin;; idliee, whence the whole counlry was lto,(M)l) nion,
tlio sioii;e bein^ temporarily raised by the arrival of Prince liii-
port. who iss\u)(i from tlio t,^Jites of York a few Jays after, only,
m every one knows, to bo cut up root and branch on Marston
Mour. the city and castle beinj^ surrendered a few weeks latei*.
()m the rolis, than I could tell them of famous
— 45 —
old York: tlioy e(H),->liUilo, howovor flio min<»ri(j — an i'i!lii;Iit('ii-
('(1— powcrittl minority, if you like. TIio other clas^, llu« most
numerous, liavo not yet scon York; may never see il, ImiI loni;- lo
(Jo so, and until they do.tiiey will 1 think, beckon me on lo lell wli t
I Icnow ahout the^i^ood city; tln^y (loinpose llie majurily. Instead
therelbi-e of merely hurrying thoiin-h the inieKJstiii^- sit;'hts and
scenes so familiar to the minority, 1 have drawn coiiioii-ly
from the notes and sketches, so carefully, so ably prepared by the
//7i6'ra of York, for the es])ecial bonetit, of ihe distin^Mii-Iu'd vi-
sitors attracted there in September last, by tlio Jubilee of tlie
British Association. ^Ve shivll therefore, with your leave fii'st, pay
a visit lo the venerable Minster of York and ;-aunlc*r through its
sounding aisles, aided by these notes :ind sketches.
YoHK MiNsTKu. — Anticjuiirians like to trace the oi'i.'i'in of this
splendid Outbedral to the little wooden oratory, which on Kaster
Sunday, 1-Jtb April 627, stood on the spot, where now stands the
Minster, und in which oratory was bapli/ed In- I'aulinus. Iviwin^
King of i^lorthumbria. Shortly after Edwin coniiuonccd to
build a larger church of stone, dedicated to St. I'etci'. Kdwin's
stone church was subsequently destroyed. In (>;j(), Oswald. I'es-
tored the Minster. In 1109, Archbishop Wilfred repaircil this
tine Tenn)lo of worship, covered the roof with lead and put gla^s
ill the window's. In 741, the Minster was nearly burnt lo ihc
ground. In 1(id, Albert, archl)ishop of York, assi-,000. " York Cathe
ih'al is build in the form of a cross. Its length is 524 feet !ind
its extreme bn'adtb, north to south, 250 feet. Ks s]iecial featui'os
;irc the dignity and massive grandeur of the whole, whether
viewed from the exterior or interior. In the height of the roots,
both nave and choir, York exceeds every other I'^iiglish cathedral.
Tbe west front is considered a marvel of architectural excellence ;
its two towers liave on each side perpendicular windows, antl
rise to the beight of 202 feet, surmounted witli lofty pinna-
cb>s. The west window, which is of two divisions of four lights
each, is an unrivalled specimen of the leafy tracery that mark-
tbe style of tlie middle of the fourteenth century. Underneath
is the great west entrance, consisting of an outer arch, deeidy
recessed, the nioukiings of which contain details of ex(iuisile de-
— 47 —
licacy. and fisriivort roproscnlin,!^' Ilio liislory nf Ailani nn.l Kvo.
II issubdividcl in Iho contro with two doorways support in,-- a
circle filiod with tracery.
The north IranHopt conlaiuHi an cIoLCMiit \vin(h>\v Unmyu m^ IIh^
"Five sisters." From the l)ase si)rin!,'s an arcade oi' treioi! arc lies,
(he whole forming perhaps the most hoautifUl spocimen ..feai-ly
Kn^lif^h architecture in (Ireat Britain . Tlii^^ transept is L'Ol le(.t
in len^Mh. and 104 leot in breadth. The choir on hotli north and
south sides is divided into two parts by i.rojcclions in the torn.
of small transej.ts. whi-'h rise above the aisles, and are pierc.-d
by lono- narrow windows on all their >
latter, 1 visited no medieval temple of worship, where . cure^l to
linM'cr longer than in the Minster of York.
After the Minster, probably the most curious objects to be
viewed in York, are the well preserved ruins of the l)eaut,ln ^t .
Mary's Abbey, in and round the elegantly kept, ,o-ar< ens ot the
PhWmplv^cd SoeieUi-^^^^^ni to the handsome new bml^-e on er
il,c Ouse-Lendal Bridge. The Abbey, a Benedictine M.>na.tery.
once in point of wealth and influence, the most inu.ortant u. tne
North of Kno-land-was founded in 1078, by Stephen, a mu.uc o
,ther monasteries were attached to it the tiOiii
Whitby. Six ot
Abbot, with he of the Abbey of Selby, wen
the onlv niitred ab-
bots north of theTren
t who bv virtue of their rank wci
.;um-
moned as Lords of
by fire and its r(
lame
reconstruction
began in 1270 : the present ru
at
Parliament.^ The first Priory was destroyed
which lasted twenty four years,
IIS are therenuiinso
f this buildiii;
the Reformation it shared the fate of other religious ho
uses
— 18
initl w.'is .siii-roiidorc'd lo llio (Vdwii in 1540, by Willuiru Drill, (lio
liisl jililiot ; llioclcur rcnliil !it llio time hoiii;^ I'lfiriO — ('(|ii:il I >
.'iImhiI S*^".'*'!!! (»I Our inoiioy. It WJis llicii, says aiioM clirniiiclor,
()i«iij)ii'(l liy "lO liioiiks ;iiul jioi'liMjis Uy IfiO st'l'Vaiils, Ulu' ol'tlid
inosi roiii:irl\}il)Io pDilioiis of tlio monastory, I visiti^d, was (Iio
llosjiilimH (ii* < Jni!st-Jlall — llio lowor HU)ry sai(i to liavo luon tlio
frlcctiiiy, is of stone. Tlio tipjior story in now used as a niiisoiiin
(»!' !•;<;}• j»t Ian and Hoinaii antiqiiilios : one's altontion is invarial>ly
dii'oc'ttMl to ilic hail- ot'a lionuvn lad}'; sonic maintain, ol'a Uritisii
jirincos, la or KI years ol' ago— which was nearly jioi'I'ccI when
diM'oveied in a stone ooilin, lined with another of lead and tilled
ill uiili iiy|»siini. In the hair arc two tine ])ins of polished Jet.
Siuciiiu'iiN oj' valiiahle Haniian ware arc also stored here ; in
tlic Icwer ronin, are some remarkable Iloman altars and i)i(»l)al)ly
the most unique e(dleelioii of L'oman cotlins in the world, stone
and lo!;d cofiins, s()ldicr>' graves, JJoman baths, &c. The cotliii of
tiic 1;hI> who owned the hair is conspicuous.
'flie niUseiimof the Yorkshire P/iibsojMcal S(jrii'tij with its col-
lection of statues, minei'als, birds, &c., nextidaimed my attention ;
ill coiitiiMiiiig our walk, we reached Y»»i'k Castle, which now. in
an area covering about four acres, comj)rises the I'l'ison, the
Assize Court, and (Mitl'ord's Tower built on tho site of the old
casile, which was founded by William tho ('onqueror al'ter his
attack on York in lUtiy. It was tor centuries the residence of the
Jliiih Sheritl's of the countv ; it took its name from Francis Clif-
lord, I'iarl of Cumberland, who in 1542 put it in a state of defense.
We were told of a many curious legends, and historical incidents
connecteil with the old jiile: here was contined Walter Calverloy
the hero of the " Yoi'kshire Tragedy," in lt)04— Eugene Aram, in
1751) ; the poet James Montgomery, in 1705-G, tor alleged political
liliels in liis newspaper, whilst that accomi)lishetl highwayman,
Dick Turpin,was imprisoned in the neighbourhood. I devoted one
whole morning walking round the Walls of York ; they ai-e provi-
ded, in the inside with a boai'ded walk, high in the air and arc one
of the most striking features of York ; they are very ancient ; the
exact date of their erection is unknown, some portions arc sup-
jiosed to have been built on the foundations of the i»'oman Wall,
one angle of which was the singular structure, well preserved and
4
;
— 40-
kiiown from its ton tingles tw tlio Multanij;iiliir Tower, ono ol
the barriors of Eboracum at tlio time of its occupation by the
Romans.
T can only direct your attention as wo hurry on to tlio lofty,
medieval city , or Bars of whioli Ibore are four ])rinci|Kil
ones and two hi ilor : Moiklogate Bar is the largest and most in-
toreKting. It consists of a square tower built over a circular
arch, with embattled turrets at the angles surmounted by stone
figures ; the arch is stated to bo Norman. The arms of Kiighind
and of old France quarterly, botweoti two shicUN surmounted by
canopies, and containing those of the city of York, arc sculi)tur-
od upon shields against the front. The Duke of York's head,
after his execution, in 1400, was fixed hero.
1 might mention also Bootham Bar, Monk Bar, Wolmgate Bar,
Fishorgute Bar, V^ictoria Bar, the latter, a modern gate.
Few cities o^'00,00n can exhibit such an array of churche-*. In
addition to t' linster, there are twenty five other toni])los of
worship ; in times, their were forty churcho-i.
" The ways to grace, in York, as xMark Twain, said of Montreal,
are numerous, "t'would be hard for a l)oy to throw u stone
there, without risk of breaking a church window.
Modern York might bo summed up as follows :
" Even those who are tlie least susceptible of impressions cannot
fail to be struck with admiration when, emerging from the Rail,
way Station, Iho first view of the city of York bursts upon the
spectator. Before him the river Ouse flows placidly on, and
stretching from its banks are seen the beautiful and undulating
u-ardens of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society, rich in architcc
Uiral remains of departed ages. To the left the ruins of St.
Mary's Abbey intermingled with the rich foliage of the surroun-
ding trees, and
Beyond, in lofty majesty.
The Minster's towers arise on high,
Fit temple of the Doity !
— .so —
Fiirtlio'' t ) (he rii!,ht uro dotted tlie spires of old F'ilior's inaiiA'
((hniThos, whilst its ancient walls, as they stretch to the river's
hi'ink, Ibi'in tin interesting fbrei;round to the whole, and complete
a l)icturc of sin<^-ul.a' beauty. The city of York is situated in the
centre of a rich agricultural district, and called the Vale of York.
"Though not a manufacturing toAvn, there are nunicrous large
estal>lishmonts, where some hundreds of hands are employed,
such as iror foundries, comb, glass, cigar, match, nail, and con-
fectionary manufactories, the latter of which tinds' a market for
its famed ])rodu('ts in all jiarts of the United Kingdotn. York
returns two ^U>mbers to Parliament, and the Municipal (Jcvern-
mcnt of the city is entrusted to a Corporation consisting of a
Lord Mayor. Aldei'inen, and Councillors There are also allecor.
der, Sheritf, and Town Clerk Its Cathedral and nuniejous chur-
ches necessarily render the clerical element cons]>icuous ; wliilst,
as lh( ': I quarters of the Northern Military District, the ai-my
takes u •eminent jiosition in the society of the city and county.
Few cities have greater opportunities of sociability and enjoy-
ment tli!in York. It has its Yorkshire (-Jeutlement's Cricket Club,
its Tennis (^ourts, its splendid i-iver for boating excursions, its
Regattas, its Military l^eviews, its Polo Matches, and its tourna-
ments, ll boasts a Jiacecourse unequalled in the country, and
it is the chii>f resort of many a keen sportsman, who as the season
comes I'ound, attaches himself to the iUr-famed York and Ainsly
JluiU. Charming too are those winter gathering.s (in that noble
suite of rooms, the York Assembly liooms) the Union Hunt
Ball, the County Ball, the Y'eomanry Ball, when from tive to eight
hundred of the r7/Yt; •' join in the gi'ldy dance." And lor those
who have a religions tendency, there is the Minster with its well-
regulated daily services, its magniliceiit organs, and its afternoon
antheni. Nor ai-e its citizens devoid of energy and enterprise.
Especially during the last ten years, Ytjrk has kept pace with
towns ot greater wealth and larger population. It has its Daily
NewsjiajK'r (^7*6' York Daily JltntUl) ; its Fine'Arts Institution ;
its I'hilosojdiical i^^ociety ; its School of Art ; its Museum ; its
Hospital ; its I>ispeusary ; its Clubs; its Corn E.Kchange ; its JJio-
cesan Training In.stiiution ; its Friend!}- Societies' Hall; its Public
Library ; it,-> Masonic JIall , its Mechanic Institute ; its l-'evei-
its
- 51 —
irosi>il;il ; ii-; 'rnimw.iys; i(s lliflc Voliinloois ; ifs ArliUory Vol
untot'r.s ; itn New Wiillc Jiiul Ksphinadu. oxtoiiding a mile cither
way from 1 he ccMitre of Iho city on tlio hniiks of tlic Oiiso ; jvii'l
it has its num<'roiis ediicalioiial ostahlislimenls, such as tlio
Jloyal Oolle,i;-e of St. Peter, whidi was orii^'iiialiy foiiiidod by
(iiie(!ii Mary in l.")")!, and endowed out of the estates of tiie dis-
solved Hospital of St. Mary (lie '"^''iri^in, and is under the control
of the Dean and ('hnpter. And noticin^A' t'l^'^^ insliliiHons which
are connected with its more rom«>1o history, we may sum up the
whole Itysayini^ it possesses Ancient (luilds. Almsliou-^cs, lEospi-
tals, and Schools, endowed for the maintenance of the ah
Associalion held its lirst meeli'\^ at York on the 2Tth of Septem-
ber, 18;'>1. rts object was then stated to be " t') give a stronger
iiiiDulse and a more systemitic direction to scieni^ilir iii([mry ;
to promote the intercourse <'f tho>e who cultivate science m
different parts of the Empire wiMi one anoiher and with foreign
philosophers; and to obtain a more general attention to the ob-
ject of science, an i. the removal ot any disiul vantage.-, of a public
kind which impe le its [jrogress."
The ,Vssociati previous, viz in IS'j;], had existed in (rermany. In
lo;]l,"Earl Fitzwilliam was its tirst President, whilst, on the
oi'casioii (.fits liflicih anniversary in September la>t, it wa>* pre-
— 52 —
silled by ii well known British snvant, ^w John Lubbock; as
the i»rosidentijil honors lust for each incumbent bnt one year, Sir
John Lubbock, was refjlacod by a London Professor, Dr.
Siemens, with whom it was my good fortune to become acciiiaint-
ed ; next summer the Association is expected to meet, under
him, at Southampton. It has been stated that step-< will then be
taken to induce the Association to hold in Canada, in 1883, its
annual meeting ; assuredly the first advent on our shores of
a body numbering three or four thousand of the leading scientists
in the world will be in our annals a lied letter day. ( Lowl ap-
plau^ic.)
To my accidental presence in York, T owe the pleasure of
having seen ov listened to mtiny of the leading scientists of the
age : Huxley— Owen — Lubbock— Siemens— Newton — liamsey —
Thomson — Herbert Spencer— Hooker — Groves— (Carpenter —
Spottiswoode— Flowers— Asa Ciray— Marsh— Whitney,aml scores
of other bright stars in the world of science.
And to the honor of being President of the Literary antl Histo-
rical Society ol' (Quebec, i tbund myself indebted for an associate
member's ticket and a reserved seat, close to those veterans of
science ; let me tell you that in such a vast apartnient as the
York Exhibition iloom, in which close on 3,000 jiersons were
seated, a reserved seat was quite an appreciable piece of good luck.
#
The .cilities atlbrded by the York pros, as well as the printed
directions, brochures and Journals of each days proceedings, placetl
at my disposal, ample inibrmation, to which you are welcome,
touching the Association's aims, progress and results.
" Estimating its success by the number of members and asso-
ciates attending its meetings the British Association, we tind,
has made rapid strides since the year 1831, when there were ',','*?>
persons present in the theatre of the Yorkshire ^Museum. In
1834, when the association met at Edinburgh, under the presi-
dency of Sir T. M.Brisbane, D.C.L., there was a total member-
ship of 1,298. Three years later the association met at Liverpool,
the Earl of Burlington presiding, when those in attendance num-
bered 1,^4 >. This niimbei' was increased to U,40l» at Newcastle
5?.
on-Tyne in the following yefir, when the chair was open pied by
the Duke of Northumberland. Then followed a ftillin,!,^ oil' to
1,4;]8 at Bii-min,i,'ham in 1830, when the [lev. W. Vernon iraroourt
took the chair ; and a still further reihiction at Glasg-ow in 1840
(the Mnniuis of Breadalbane presiding), when there wore 1,:J53
persons in attendance In the subsequent years the diminution
ill numbers was most marked, only H'Jl persons journeying to
Plymouth lo attenil the meetings under the pre>,idency of the
IlJv.W.Whewell, F.R.S. Then there came another leap at
Manchester in 1812, when Lord Francis Kgerton presided, and
had the pleasure of being surrounded by a company numt)ering
1,315. From Manchester the Association went over to tlie Sister
Isle and met at Cork, under the chairmanship of the i^^arl of
Rosse, F.R.S. , after which it returned to the place of its nativity,
whore the liev. (i. Peacock, D.D., tilled the presidential chair.
From 18-15 to 1855 the chair was occupied by Sir John F.W.
llerschell, Sir Roderick Murchison, Sir Robert Inglis,the Marquis
ofXorthampton, the Rev. T.R.Robinson, D. D., Sir David Brews-
ter, Mr. G.B. Airy (Astronomer Royal,) Lieut Uoneral Sabine,
the' Earl of Harrowby, and the Duke of Argyll. During these
years the attendance varied considerably, from "15 in 1851 to
2,133 in 1855. Under the presidency of Professor Daubeny, M.
i).,at Cheltenham, in 185«,the meetings were attended by 1,115 ;
but that number was almost doubled in 1857 at Dublin, wiien
there were 2.022 men\bers and associates present. N(jtwitl;sLan
ding the presence of the Prince Consort at the Aberdeen meeting
'■am
in 1858, there was a falling off: l,(;08,which number ran up u,^
to 2,5()4 at Oxford in the following year, when the chair was oc-
cupied by Lord Wrottisley. At Manchester in 1801, and New
castle on-Tyne in 18G3, the two most successful meetings of Uie
association in regard to numbers have been held. Dr. Willuim
Fairbairn, F.R.S., at the former, and Sir W.ti. ArmsinMig ai
the latter town, had the honour of presiding over 3,13!) and 3,.l3o
persons respectively. Since that time the luimber have not va-
ried greatly from year to year, but have maintained a comi)ara-
tively steady balance between 1,85G and 2,8U2, with the exception
however, of Plymouth m 1817, when there were only 1217 per-
sons i.resent, and Sheftield in 1870, when the attendance numbe-
red 1,404 only. During these yoars the presideniial chair was
— r,4 —
occupied, jimongHl others, b}- Dr.Ricliaixi Owen, H.C. L. ; llie
Rev. ProfessHor Willii- ; Sir Cliarles Lyell, Bart. ; Pr()f'o>.sor J.
Philli]»s, L T.. D. ,&c. ; Mr. Justice Grovei^, tiie Diikeof Biiecleucli.
Pr. Josei)h 1). Hooker, Profes.sor (i. CI. Stokes, Professor Huxley,
8ir \V. Thomson, Dr. W. B. Carpenter, Professor A. Williamson,
Mr. VV. Spotiswoode, L L.l). ,&c. (president of the Royal Society,)
l^rofessor. (i. J- Allman, LL. D,, F.R. S., &c.
An>oni>- those eai^er to render hommai^e to science, as well ;is to
fulfil towards their distinguished visitors the pleasaiitdntiesof hon-
pitaliiy, the litterati, historiansand antiquarians of the town, took
a prominent part. York, was described, sketched and discussed,
in the press, in the loading English Reviews and Magazines, under
ever}' aspect. Foremost might be mentioned the learned Canon
Raine, and Mr. Edwin (ioadby, who furnished most elaborate
and scholarly descriptions of the famous old town. The leading
Journal, the York Herald, enlarged its space from eight sheets
to sixteen ; each morning, it contained most interesting histo-
I'ical data on York, and a copious summa-y of the daily proceed-
ings of the British Ass >ciation, as well as excerpts of the Papers
and I'^ssays read by learned Professors.
Each de]iartment of science, had its section, its president, its
sei»arate meeling place, every day from 10 P. M., during that fes-
tive week. In addition to ihe meetings of the sections, three grand
liiei-ai-y xoir>'es were held at the York Exiiibition Rooms, for
which tickets costing two sovereigns were issued. More than 20(10
cultured outsiders had been attracted by the .lubiloe of the British
Association ; the city was alive with bustle and thronged with Bri-
ti>h Pi'ofcs.^oi's, old and young, savants from France, (lermany,
America, even from J:ipan : the display lasted one whole week
and was enlivened by social g:itheriugs, "at homes," garden par-
ties, excursions to Scarborough, Castle Howard, ilelmsley ('astte,
Ri.'vaulx Abbey, and other historic sj)ots' in the neighbourhood.
1 attended as numy, as 1 could of the mortdng sittings and
some of ihe literary and scientitic soirees in the Exhibition
lloom.'i. History— Geography— Geology— Chemistry-— Paleontho-
logy — P)Otaiiy - Zoology— Electricity— Trade— Statistics.each had
one or more eloquent exponents. Oi'all the eminent men I saw
or listoiKd to, tlic '• veteran of scionco," as his confrhei '"ok plea-
sure in styling him, white-haired, genial old I^ichard Owen and
Professor Huxley, attracted most my attention. Though I did
not, feel myself called on to accept the new, bright, but uncertain
light of Evolution, how could 1 fail being struck with the lucidity
of i'xposition-tho marvellous flow of oratory - the glow of
science, at the easy and constant command of Professor Huxley :
{I born orator ?
The subjects which engaged the attention .)f the Association
were of a most varied nature and touched nearly every depart-
ment of science.
Many were very novel ; some, rather abstruse ; several, tliough
seeminirly of paramount interest to savants, apparently, not
practical for the million. I subjoin a few by way of illustration :
Dr. S. Houghton read a paper : On the Effects of Gulf Streams
upon Climate."
The new President Dr. C. W, Siemens "On >iome Applications
of Electrir. Energ\j to Horticultural and Agricultural I'urpnsesr
and gave out as the result of his experements that the growth of
plants and flowers can be greatly stimulated by giving them by
nioht. Electric light; this novel theory attracted much attention.
Arw'. Bennett : spoke " On the colours of Spring Flovxrsr
Professor E W. Atkinson read a communication iniituled :
" Brewmg in Japan''
Prolessor J. Preetwich, held forth : " On the causes of Volcanic
action "
Dr. Ik^ddoe : " On the stature of the Inhabitants of Hungary."
\Vm. E. A. Axon : " On Corn and Cattle."
Wm. AVestgarth, of London : " 0« a General Banking Lcnr for
the Uniled Kingdom:'
.1. B. ])awsoTi, struck a sympathetic cord, whet, he stood up
and held forth: " On the economical effects of using cheap gas for
[jas-meterstoith a description of the Apparatus for producing it."
— .5«i —
li. Pickwoll, treated : Of Continuous DoorLockn and Foot-
lioard.s for Jtnilirai/ CarricKjes."
Professor Sccly : " On the Evolution of the Plesiausonis."
Professor Thorpe : " On Chemical action beticeen Solids."
The Papers on (ieology and Geograiihy vcro particularly iii-
leix'sliti;.;-.
A scicMifiNl from our side of the water, Professor O. C. Marsh,
of Yale College, in a remarkable ])aper, held forth on the ehai-af-
teristics of the ArchoeojdcrifX, an extinct spicies— a Jurassic Bird,
half sorpeni, lialf Bird; of which throe specimens only were
known lo exist : ono.ut Philadelphia -an othcr.at Munich, a third,
in the British Museum: his explanations of the structure of this
gi;.:intif individual of the genus Struthyonidae seemed to rivet the
atlcnlion of the lOuropcan ^artoi/s. 1 felt inclined to say "Well-
done " America! when Professor Marsh sat down amidst hearty
applau-c. A Paris Professor, Cyparissos Stephanos discoursed in
Frencii on an aiislruse mathematical question ; ''Sin les faisceaux
de forme hiquadratique binairc ayant unemcme Jacobicnne.'"
Professeur Halpen : " Sur une classe d'equatlons different idles li-
/i( aires."
T Iv Clark, B. S. C. : " On Glacial Sections at York."
Ladies and Gentlemen.— Our varied, om- jaunty little excur-
si.)n fr( m iiome must now draw to a close.
The time has come for me to bkl adieu to the ])leasant, hospi-
table, cullurod old land beyond the sea, and to commit myself to
the safc-kcei>ing of Capt. Dutton and his good ship " .Sardinian."
Westward llo ! will now be our motto.
Tho".gh 1 have revelled, whilst abroad, in many ini])osing
sights, let me tell you, 1 lelt happy, in again turning my face to
my native shores, not in the least downhearted with our own
Canada.
Magniticent. striking spectacles 1 have indeed witnessed, in Kn.
gland— ^Scotland— Ireland— France— Belgium, etc., but whether
57—
from the pictiiresqiio ruiii.s o{'Sc:u-boroiiij:l> Casllo ; from ArUiur'a
Seat; or looking across Iho spiirklini; wutors of MovlUo Bay,
from tlui sublime, though dohipiilatud walls of Groon Castle, Do-
negal ; or c'outomplating gaudy Taris, and the historic heights
of Montmartre from the lofiy summit of the Cohnne de la Bus-
tdk;ov from the top of tlio lion-crowned Mound onWaterloo plain,
compassing at one glance a fanvms battleHeld of the past, no
where, have my eves been fea-^ted with anoblor view than you can
any day obtain from the brow of Capo Diamond or from the workl-
renownoi terrace (Quebec owes t.) our regretted late Governor
General ; and after scanning an 1 witli our own comparing, the
institutions -the aspirati.uis— the freedom, civil, religious and
political of other peoples,wilhout envying them their glory, their
wiMlom, their greatness, but, on the co.itrary taking full note of
the same, 1 felt proud of the strides our country was making in
the race of improvement, expansion and progress ; prouder still
of the recognition Canada with its wealth of mines— phosphates—
a,bostos— pastures ;md wheat tields^was rapidly gaining in Eui-ope
(applause) ; full of hope inour future, I felt on rounding Foinie Levi,
inclined to repeat the impassionned utterances of that true friend
to Quebec, Lord Duiforin, when addressing a meeting, at Belfast,
on the Uth June 1.S72: "Like a virgin Goddess in a primeval
world, Canada still stalks in unconscious beauty among hor
golden woods and along the margin of her trackless streams,
catching but broken glances of her radiant maje>ty, as mirrored
on their surface and scarcely dreams as yet of the gh.rious future
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WORKS OF J. M. LeMOINE.
ENGLISH.
^Legendary Lore of the Lower St. Lawrence, 32ino
*Maple Leaves, 1st Series, 124 pages 8vo
* «' " 2nd Series, 204 pages 8vo
* « " 3rd Series, lfi4 pages 8vo ...
*The Tourist's Note Book, 64ino, by Cosmopolite, 28 pages.
*The Sword of Brigadier General Montgomery, (a Memoir)
36 pages 64mo
Jottings from Canadian History, (Stewart's Quarterly)
^Trifles from My Portfolio, (New Dominion Monthly)
*Maples Leaves, New Series, 290 pages, cloth, 8vo
*Quebec, Past and Present, 46(1 pages
The Tourist's Note Book, (second edition)
Chronicles of the St. Lawrence, 8vo
InauiTural Addresses road before iho Literary and Historical
Society, Quebec :
Glimpses of Quebec 1749-59
The Scot in New Franco
Edinburgh— Eouen— York
Picturesque Quebec, 550 pages
FRENCH.
1862
1863
1864
1870
1870
1871
1872
1873
1876
1876
1878
1879
1880
1881
1882
*L'Ornithologie du Canada, (2 vol. in 8vo). I860
*Les Pecheries du Canada, 8vo 1863
*Memoire do Montcalm, Vongeo, 8vo .... 1865
*L'Album Canadian, 100 pages Svo 1870
*L'Album du Touriste, 387 pages Svo 1873
Notes Ilistoriques sur les Eucs do Quebec, 41 pages 8vo.... 1875
Tableau Synoptiquo des Oiseaux du Canada, a I'usage des
ecoles
„ ^,. , f DAWSON BROTHERS, MONTREAL.
Publishers | jj^WSON & CO., QUEBEC.
Those marked * are out of print and scarce.
1877