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QUEBEC AND GULP PORTS STEAMSHIP COMPAF^^^
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SEASON OF 1877-8.
with a regularity unsurpassed by Iv I, f '™"^'' "■"* *'"'' '^'"^'
source o, coni:atulatrLV'ural: '^r^h''^^^^^^ " '' "
Steamer, on this route, and at the sStZetT . "^"^ ""'
traTcae™ that nothing has been left Idone blTb \ ™ "^'""-""^ '»
boats attractive and safe. • ^ ""'""'^ '" '""'■^'"^ ^^^
While every care will be taken to nreserve tl,i= »^, j «
theis.anLCed^:;zrnr:rrrto":rrs-b^„nr
::tcrivT:r;h7r::"r ■ "r "^^ -^ "-" --- ^
-traugei there : nZ.^l Ztl hZ "" f '"i °' """^ "»°*^
^::::^ior :r ™r r r ' "" —-— - -™^
of guests. ■ "' """""^ "^ '"' '^« "-""g to secure the comfort
A further inducement to visit Bermiifln I'a +!,« i
thence to St. Thomas and other West Mes ". "^'" «o""n«»ioation
semi" :;""!': ttt ""' -^^^ °^"™''^' ^^ "- «*«—
indepeadent'of the Bemu?a rtt ,7 °"' ''"^™'^ ™^ '^^ ^ "«
enabled to make eonu^Z at St TLomL'""'™ '""" ^^™"<"' "^ >«
longrvrtrtTrnnrran'tL'-Bi^rr^^^^^
™.s . wt: tJ^rctiTrj?r.nr:ttt H
"rr ai::r:en S::^1:.t --^ «' - OaXXaTs!
attraction to stinger. Su^i o^a pL^r^ oo"f 1 1 ''\'"' ^^*'
four miles inland nnrl i« >..o v, ^ • piateau 4,000 feet abore the sea and
The sit^tit a 'tt heS^t T Zh*^" 'f f' ™'^ *°» ^'"*-^-
olimate as is rarely to be w Idt^ b ! /■•^™' '° *"* °"^ ="•"" »
— yfoundo4insevra^»rc:Li:;:7;r ^"" - -
accessible drives and mule n«fh« f. g^antieur of the views obtained from
hasbeenpubhsLdby^,t^r^^^^^^^
to visit Venezuela. ^ ^' "^ ^' ''''* '^ P^^^°"« ^^° "^«y desire
tho Quebec
New York,
rs. It is a
•taken the
lurance to
nder their
pany feels
i^ith each
;le visited,
a highly
eciate the
hundred
md many
I had in
manager
Hamilton
I comfort
inication
Iteamers
will be
will be
ellers a
several
healthy
sautiful
ca and
aracas,
> great
ea and
luaira.
such a
as are
BERMUDA.
IKriA BUllUEB TBEE.
LYING about seven hundred miles south-
east of New York is a group of islands
whose climate, soil, and picturesque scen-
ery render them especially interesting to
us, and yet they are strangely unfamiliar
to most well-informed Americans. Speak-
ing our own language, having the same or-
igin, with manners which in many ways
illustrate those prevalent in New England
eeventy-five years ago. w/ie people are bound
to us by many natural ties. A Mexican rev-
olution, a Cuban revolt, a Spanish - Cuban
outrage, the proposed annexation of San Do-
mingo, have led us to inquire into the history
and resources of those regions. But life in
Bermuda has been as placid as its lovely
waters on a summer day, with now and
then a petty agitation which has not been
sufficiently important to attract the atten-
tion of the outside world, from which it is
so absolutely isolated.
Within thrco days' travel from Now York
it is hardly possible to find so complete a
change in government, climate, scenery, and
vegetation as Bernuida oifers. The voyage
may or may not be pleasant, but is sure to
be short. The Gulf Stream, which one is
obliged to cross, has on niatiy natures a sub-
duing eflFect, and the sight of land is not
generally unwelcome. The delight is in-
tensified by the beauties which are spread
out on every hand. The wonderful trans-
parency of the water, the niimerous islands,
making new pictures at every turn, the shift-
ing lights on the hills, the flowers, which al-
most hide houses that peep out hero and
there from their bowers, make up a snene
as rare as it is beautiful. And so, making
our way slowly through the labyrinth of
islands, a sudden turn brings us into the
pretty harbor of Hamilton, which is the cap-
ital and principal town of Bermuda.
The arrival of the steamer haa been her-
alded by the customary signal — a flag from
the Government House. The news has been
telegraphed all over the island, and the crowd
BERiiVDA.
of people on the wharf indicates the interest
wh.ch attaches to our advent. TJ.rinaioritv
of those standing there are coh.red w,th J
sprinkling of men well-to-do and EnJsl, i,?
ish soldier suggests the fact that this is one
of England's military stations. "°
^trl^ ^^l^T^""'^'^ '"^* opposite Front
Street, which, we learn, is the prindnal
business street of the town. A loS^Jh^^
hke structure stretches alo^ig tto Zrf a/
ford.ng a comfortable sheltof f„r men!bo?8
and barrels. The pride-of-Iudia trees offer
ing agreeable shade, border one sSo of th^'
street, while stores, uapretenS ng7n appea/
ance, extend along the other F..«^!?^ ""'''
ture of tbo soil, th'e stretst;e atZthi^ ' '^'^
whole Tlf«T T^}'^'^""' elare, and, o? ho
Whole, the first glimpse of the town is rZ
very prepossessing. As we land^ no hack
man vociferates. No man, of any calUni
vociferates in this latitude. If we S
tairiL? ''""i ''' ^*' otherwise w:
walk. The town boaats of some three or
four hotels, to the best of which, the Ham!
i Sh 1 ,r ' "'"■ Z^y- ^* *« •"»»»t«d on
the tow. ' T""*'"'":*f " ^'«* "*" '"o»t of
> lUe open. I be lloors, suvo the parlor and
H.tt.ng-room, are white and nncar pete Te
oo„,H are Himply but cn.fortably ft n',i„i!
«<1, and, what is better still, tolerably IZ-
a-.y, and uell ventilated. Long veranE
Htretcli aeroH. tlie front, from whfch one oS^
ta.n« dellgbtiui views of the harbor and th^
h.l » beyon.l, clothed with cedar lud Sotted
with houses. Flowers bloom in front ^f
the house, and the oleander, red, p nk and
wh. e, ln.es the path leading up ^e'Sl
ahad.ng olf into the dark green of the ce-
durs below. The air, free from impuritS
a..d laden with the perfumes of tCSow!™
18 d.-l.c ons : it is a joy to breathe. '
1 ho town IS small, not having, probably
mo o than two thousand inhabitants It is
laid out quite regularly, „ „. i« Sh^r nily
TilL r^^"'^ Pr«tty, but is inte .stfng
the white roofs, one's liist tho.ight. !« that
there has been a fall of snow, but the ther
mometer sets him right on that point and
ho learns that in the absence of well's, all
the roofs are plastered and kept very clean
that water is conducted thence int? tanks'
from which it is drawn for use. This fm'
ordmary dwelliugs. Where a large XpS
^required, as about some of the en.amp!
Z^h *''", T^^'^°P« °^ «* ^i» »« selected,
graded, p altered, and that, presenting a
^ger surface, is used for the pJrpose f he
wa er is singularly pure, and /.leaSant to the
n situated on
ly of lUOHt of
^V8 are tluug
e parlor and
arpetod ; the
il'ly ftiniiHh-
Tubly large,
iig veraudaa
hich one ob-
I'bor and the
• and dotted
in front of
fl, pink, and
up the hill,
1 of the ce-
i impurities
the flowura,
e.
h probably,
mits. It is
either ugly
iutertisting
llanciiig at
!{ht. is that
it the ther-
point, and
f wells, all
«^ery clean,
into tanks,
This foi-
rge supply
e enianip-
8 selected,
iseuting a
lose. The
laut to the
tfort
Albert
kouue's
BRRMUDA.
■U, MJ/. I
I
raiMITV OUVBOB.
The honses are rarely more than two sto-
ries in height, often, or nsually, only one.
They are almost invariably built entirely
of the Bermuda stone — walls, roofs, and
chimneys. The stone is of a creamy white
color, and so porous that it seems as if it
would crumble in a day. Indeed, it is so
soft that it is generally sawed out with a
common handsaw. The tiles, which are
about two feet long, one foot wide, and firom
six to eight inches thick, are left for a short
time to harden in the snu.
The walla and roofs of all honses are plas-
tered, and this fact, taken in connection with
the entire freedom from frost, explains their
durability, many of which are in a good state
of preservation after standing for a hundred
and fifty years. They are usually white,
with green "Venetian blinds, admitting light
and air from beneath. Nearly all have pretty
verandas and pleasant grounds surround-
ing them. Judging from the exterior, ot e
would conclude that they would be Entirely
inadequate to the demands of any ordinary
family, birt closer acquaintance demonstrates
the fact that a house may be built out as well
as vp, and what seemed very diminutive
proves to be very commodious .ind pretty,
though they are usually destitute of any
thing which we term "modern improve-
ments." Kitchens and servants' rooms are
generally detached from the main house.
The government buildings in Hamilton
are plain two -story structures, in one of
which is the Bermuda Library, originated
by Qovemor Beid, and at premnt sustain-
ad by oooasional grants from th^i Assembly
and by subscrip-
tions. It contains
some twelve hun-
dred works, well se-
lected, and, what is
quite as much to tho
purpose, well read.
The small number
of ilhistrRtod books
which tho library
P0S8C88P8, together
with those written
by ihe Queen, or
due to her patron-
age, are the pride
of the librarian, a
retired sea-captain,
who exhibits her
Majesty's aiitograph
with delight, descanting all the while ou
the kindness which has prompted her gifts.
The most pretentious building in Hamil-
ton, or, indeed, in Bermuda, is Trinity
Church, which was some twenty-five years
in building, owing, however, rather to the
stupidity than the skill of its builders. It
stands ou a hill overlooking tho town, be-
longs, of course, to the Episcopalians, is real-
ly quite pretty, and far superior to any thing
of its kind which one usually finds in so
small a place.
There are only two towns in Bermuda —
Hamilton and St. George's. Most of the peo-
ple therein are engaged in trade, but there is
no excitement about it. Few business men
in Hamilton reside in the town, but drive
or sail in from homes in the country. At
six the town is deserted, and after that hour
is a veritable Sleepy Hollow. The streets
are not lighted, and almost absolute quiet
prevails.
The general direction of the islands is
from northeast to southwest. They are in
the latitude of Charleston, South Caroli-
na, and the nearest point on the continent
is Cape Hatteras, five hundred and eighty
miles dibtant. They are of calcareous for-
mation, "due entirely," says Colonel Nelson,
" to the action of the wind in blowing up
sand made by the disintegration of corid
reefs. They present but one mass of auimal
remains in various stages of comminution
and disintegration. The varieties of rock
are irregularly associated, and without any
order of superposition. Nearly every shell
now known in the surrounding sea may be
found in the rock, quite perfect, except with
regard to color. Along tlie south shore are
sand-hills which illustrate the formation of
Bermuda. In one instance a cottage has
been submerged, trees to the height of sev-
eral feet, and the sand has even traveled up
a hiU one hundred and eighty feet high.
Nine miles north of the islands are four nee-
dle rocks, apparently the remnants of former
islands. They are about ten feet above high-
w»t«r murk, and vary from four
to eight feot 111 diameter. Tli«y
ar« of llnieatoHo, and are Btruti-
fled :ike the maiii-luiid."
There aro in all about one hun-
^f!^ * •"'H t''"»«h it iH UHually
BtatoU that thore aro three times
a» many. Not more than sixteen
or twenty are inhabited, and of
tfiMe the five largest aro St. Da-
vid 8, St. George's, Bermuda nron-
or, sometimes styled the Conti-
nent, SomerHet, and Ireland. Thev
are about fifteen miles in length,
and the greatest breadth isalfout
live miles. There are no mount-
ains, no rivers, and ho, while
tlieyare without magnincence in
, 8<'onery, in a quiet sort of beauty
tliey are unique.
„. I*"^^! "'^ ""'""^ °"« hundred
aud fifty miles of good hard
roads which are generally free
from dust. In ,uany places deep
cuttings have been made, and the
rock towers above the carriage
oven. The scenery is exceeding-
ly picturesque, and changes cOu-
tinually. Now you drive through
wide stretches of country, and the
landscape bears a striking resem-
blance to that of New England:
then through a uarrow road, with
liigh walls of rock on either hand,
on the sides of which the rjaiden!
hair fern grows in profusion, and
the road is so winding that ev-
ery new view which bursts sud-
«lenly upon you is a surprise ; and
then there are delightful glimpses
of the sea, with its many islands.
^^ alls of stone extend along ihe
road-side, and over them clamber
voe morning-glory, the prickly-
poar, and the night - bloomins
cereus. Great beds of gerani-
ums, which mock our hot-houses
111 their profusion, grow wild.
Hedges of oleander line the roads
or border cultivated patches of
iand, protecting them from the
high winds which at times sweep
«ver the islands. Thirteen vari-
eties of it are found here, and
Avherever you go it is one mass
ot pink and white blossoms. The
Jautana also grows wild aljng all
the hedges. The passion-flower
peeps out from its covert of green
leaves, creei)ing up the branches
of tall trees. The profusion of
flowers 18 wonderful, and one can
always have a bouquet for the
feathering. The winter is the
reg?il time for them. About
Christmas the roses, magnificent
llEKMirDA.
BEUMUDA.
m
m
BTBirr IN HAMILTON— TIIK WUAUP,
in size, and of groat variety, are in all their
glory. One geutleman assured rao that he
had upward of one hundred and fifty varie-
ties. No great care seems to be taken to
cultivate them. Hero and there one sees a
fine garden, hut nothing that even approach-
es what might be accomplished with such a
soil and climate.
The beauty and variety of flowers are
fully equaled by the excellence and diver-
sity of fruits. Oranges of superior quality
arc raised, though their culture is not gen-
oral. The lemon grows wild. The man-
go, guava, papaw, pomegranate, fig, arocad.i
pear— whose lovers (for they can be called
nothing else) ftfccome eloquent in its praise
— the custard-apple, the banana — the lazy
man's delight,;jbearing its wealth of fruit,
and dying as it yields its single bunch, while
the new plants springing up about its dead
stalk maintain the supply the year round —
all these fruits grow readily, and with due
cfi'ort would grow abundantly. Apples and
pears are raised, but lack the flavor they
possess with us. Peaches, heretofore excel-
lent, have been destroyed for two years past
by an insect. Strawberries ripen from No-
vember till July. Grapes grow luxuriantly.
The most common tree is the Bermudian
cedar, wi*^^h which nearly all the hill-sides are
wooded. Occasionally one sees the mount-
ain palm, while tamarind, tamarisk, palmet-
to, cocoa-nut, India rubber, mahogany, and
calabash trees are quite common. In gar-
dens many West Indian trees are found.
Although three crops of vegetables can b«
raised annually, still agriculture is in a very
backward state, and most of the fiuits enu-
merated are specially rather than general-
ly cultivated. In the early colonial days it
waa the chief occupation of the people, but
waa afterward abandoned for other pursuits,
and after the introduction of slavery the
land was mostly tilled by slaves, and a cer-
tain disgrace attached to this kind of labor.
Ignorance reigned in the fields, and it is only
recently that an attempt has been made to
wrest them from its sway. The most pro-
gressive men are now deeply interested in
the subject, and strong efforts are being
made to induce the people to cultivate some-
thing besides the stereotyped onion, iwtato,
tomato, and arrowroot, the last said to be
the best in the world, though the quantity
raised is constantly diminishing, as it ex-
hausts the soil, and does not prove as re-
munerative as some other crops.
Small patches of land are selec^ied here
and there, are carefully spaded— the plow
not being in common use — and from them
the surprisingly large crops are realized.
The land is quite generally inclosed by the
oleander, and to prevent inroads upon it all
creatures that feed out-of-doors, from a hen
to a cow, are usually tied. The poor things
have that resigned look peculiar to individ-
uals linked to any thing from which they
are too weak or too stupid to escape. '
One great drawback to the colony has
bueii the lack of regular steam commuuioa-
tlon with New Yoplr t»,„ ~ — '
D&vs «„h«M 1 ^ ^^® govemuieiit now
Ts r'o K^ ^° *^'* Q'-^ebec & Gulf P
night ; •kntL'Sl ''''"''^' ^*«*'-" ^or^-
weekly trip, are uade Thi^' , "'^ ''''"^'
ports last year 18?l h ^ ® ''*'"® °^ «-*
r ijwi year, mis, has been about ft-^in
troduct on of imnrnvo ^"'""^"r'oo, the jn-
th» '"creased demCwhSng h *'""^
for products whiVh +1,^ 7 "^ ^® "'a'le
"upjly, will mai Af « °°,*'"^ ''*'' «° ^'^"y
forajicrshrS o ;^^^^^^^^^ tfai
of New York nttea— the garden
name of old Juan rL!! f ? ^P*'"** The
^has been l^VoXd „p?n f.^^' •^*,' ^^^o^erer,
would seen, as if JJ^ -^.^ islaadB, and it
them, sHhcT^uifv^^'^'^f '" ^«^*« o^«r
wi^ eharactStf. aSf; '"^ ^^^^ ^^^
BEBMUDA.
-dii'^S»e"^
the experiencf 't£Ao5? th^r*'"""' "^
its most comn.and?n/he"yt lr!T:..^"
St^^s^rbroeS^r^^^^^^^
brought here and^ hi T"^ f^'""^^ ^«r«
craft^waiting CrLte t W '^^^^^^^ *^ *^«
business, but one well fJuowedarj^ "''^^
n^en here who flattered themselves a?T
begmningofthewaj-fii^f *^ ** ^'^^
ing weVuts ::i'tnk7„p""j r T
so at its close. Some few k ^ ^ "^^^^
large amounts Ti^l ' ^°^«^er, realized
at SighTevery avaflaSr ''"' "^^^«^' *°d
or in waa SS " m '^*"' out-of-doors
walls, d^ks iKors ri? '^ ^'^*°'^«'
and saUors somlt:ria„tr'^i7h'1itX*^'
specip, The urice of lo w ^ *"^® "»
wen, .ioa^:.^:,l?l°;^^™•:'= "•««
I common laborer had hi« ntl ^' *°^ *be
' cake to offer Here ton w"^*^^ ^""^ "'^^
BEIiMUDA.
Taj DRTIL'a UOll.
close there came a sudden collapse. If a
door-nail is deader than any thing else in
nature, then St. George's is as dead as that
nail.
From St. George's to Hamilton there is a
fine ocean diive of eight or nine miles. Go-
ing by Harrington Sound, you will pass the
Devil's Hole, or Neptune's Grotto, between
which and the sound there is a subterranean
communication — the sound, by-the-way, be-
ing an arm of the aoa. Fish caught at the
most favorable seasons of the year are kept
here until wanted for use. The usual num-
ber is 1000, though it wiU hold twice as
many. There are many varieties of ^sh,
and the spectacle is as pleasing as it is
novel. These ponds, on a small scale, are
quite numerous throughout Bermuda.
Like most limestone countries, Bermuda
abounds iu caves, and nowhere are they
more beautiful than in Walsingham, not far
from Neptune's Grotto, on the road leading
around Harrington Sound, one of the love-
liest sheets of water imaginable. The whole
region is sing .\larly attractive . Mimic lakes,
reflecting the varied hues of the rocks which
inclose tbeaj, with trees overhanging their
banks, teem with fish wonderful in variety
and color, whose motions are the very ideal
of grace. By-paths through the tangled wild-
wood lead one through a wilderness of beau-
ty. Nature has been lavish of her gifts all
through this locality ,and as it is ecological-
ly one of the oldest sections of Bermuda, all
the rocks seem to have the weather staia
which the vinas love so well. Over the
whole is thrown the charm of poetry, ftom
the fact that it was ono of Tom Moore's fa-
vorite haunts while living in Bermuda. It
is fitting that Nature should have her tem-
ples in such a place. Humili ty is on© of the
conditions of entrance to them, and so bond-
ing low, making a slight descent, we are
soon standing in a room from whose arched
roof hang large stalactites. Artificial lights
bring out each in its full proportions, and
one contemplates with wonder this strange
architecture, regardless of the ages it has
endured. In a second one near by^ and
which is much more spacious, is a beautiful
sheet of water, clear as crystal, and of an
emerald tint. The finest cave is the Admi-
ral's, which guides may fail to mention from
the fa«t that it is more difiicult of access
than any of the others ; but to one at all ac-
customed to climbing there is little danger
and no great diflftculty in visiting any of
them.
Back to the enchanted ground we lunch
under "Moore's calabash-tree;" hacked b"
specimen hunters, but beautiful still. Here
he sat and wrote, and so acquired the divine
right to all this place. Of course there is a
love-story, and the characters in it are this
same poet and the handsomest lady in all
the Bermudas at that time. Miss Fanny
Tucker, sometimes prettily called the " Rose
of the IslcB,'' whom Moore in his poems ad-
BERMUDA.
dree8e8a8"Nea." Well, he wrote verses to
lier, and about her, and went on in true lov-
or-hke style ; but she seems not to have been
moved by his strains, and liked her own
name so well that she did not change it on
her marriage. Moore lived to love again, as
we aU know. In fact, all the people in this
ntt'e story are said to have lived haonilv
ever after. ^'^ ^
One of the most delightful places in Ber-
muda to visit is Clarence Hill, the residence
of the Admiral, who is supposed to live there
three months each year. The road from
Hamilton is a wild one, and full of variety,
with most charming combinations of the
woods, country, and sea. We pass Under-
chflf Cottage, designed for happy lovers, who
can here spend the honey-moon in a retreat
so secure that there will be no demand for
the farce of Old Married People, always a
failure when enacted by amateurs. There
are flowers in abundance, which with the
air and views will sustain life for a month
or so. A pretty veranda overlooks the wa-
ter, with its
"Summer islee of Eden lying In dark purple spheres
Steps lead almost from the door down to
the boat, which will bear them out into all
the loveliness which is ever beckoning to
them. For absolute beauty I know of but
one other view in Bermuda comparable
with this— that from the summit of St. Da-
vid's Island. The atmospheric effects are
marvelous, and lead
one to consider mat-
rimony very favor-
ably, so closely are
the place and the
condition connected.
The grounds at
Clarence Hill are
quite extensive and
well kept. The
house is plain, but
the attractiveness
of the place is in its
marine views, and in
the fact that nature
has been left in. On
a hill-side overlook-
ing the sea, in a
most sequestered
spot, is an exqui-
site bit of garden-
ing. Mosses, ferns,
and many tropical
plants grow in such
profnsiou arid grace,
peeping from under
rocks, climbing over
them, that it is only
by critical inspec-
tion that you per-
ceive that their prea*
ence is due to cultivation. Near by is a
cave, against whose outer wall the sea is
ever dashing. It was tunneled by a former
Admiral, and is so large that on its comple-
tion a ball was given in it by way of cele-
bration.
Some pleasant morning a visit must be
made to Ireland Island, the site of the dock-
yard and naval estal lishment, and one of
the four telegraphic signal stations. We
land, and encounter at once the British sen-
tinel, who is very courteous, and splutters in
the most unintelligible English, using word*
on general principles, more as a relief to him-
sell than as an assistance to any one else.
Wot being in any sense dangerous to Great
Britain, we are allowed to proceed. There
are marines every where, and with few ex-
ceptions they seera to be a most disagreeablo
set of fellows. The most remarkable object
of interest is undoubtedly the floating-dock,
one of the largest structures of its kind in
the world, which was built in England, and
was towed across the Atlantic \o its present
position by five ships. Its length is three
hundred and eighty-one feet, and its breadth
one hundred and twenty -four feet. The
largest and heaviest man-of-war can be
docked. It is divided into forty-eight water-
tight compartments, which are fitted with
valves worked from the upper deck. By
placing some four thousand tons of water in
the upper chambers its keel can be brought
five feet out of water and cleaned— a proc-
ess which it has once undergone. You as-
MOOBK'a OALABASU-TBEI.
BERMUDA.
TIIK ri.OATINQ-DOOK.
I
cend a ladder or steps on the outside, and get
a fine view, having yonr head nearly blown
off while doing it. People whose heads are
of no consequence invariably ascend, while
the more severely intellectual remain at the
foot of the ladder. There is the usual num-
ber of machine-shops, offices, and magazines,
with vast quantities of powder — much more
than a quiet little place like Bermuda would
seem to require. Places ha v^e been tunneled
out here and there, and filled with munitions
of war. Every thing is avTanged in the most
deliberate and scientific . manner to injure the
feelings of other people. There is no sugges-
tion of peace or ita congresses, unless the
maiden-hair fern which grows on the rocks
wherever there is sufficient moisture may be
considered one. Among so many sugges-
tions of disaster and death the hospital and
cemetery are harmonious accompaniments.
The former is commodious and well man-
aged. Tlie latter has more inmates, and is
a pleasant place to go to when one can not
go elsewhere, and is rendi xod attractive by
flowers and trees — a fact dtfei'ving mention,
eiaoe most cemeteries here are the lonesom- 1
est kind of places, though they are not par-
ticularly gay in any country.
If the moon, tide, and party are just right.
Fairy Land presents as great a contrast to
Ireland Island as can well be imagined.
Five or six hours are needed for the expedi-
tion. You row into little coves, then into
what seem to be lakes, so perfectly inclosed
is the water ; hard by the shore, looking ni>
through dells in which you can almost see
the fairies dancing under the trees ; under
great rocks which threaten to send you down
among the fishes; around islands, into inlets,
where the mangroves, every leaf glistening
in the moonlight, throw out their branches
in the most welcoming way. All this, and
much more, is in store for him who goes to
Fairy Land, the enchanted spot of Bermuda.
Bermuda having suffered several times
from yellow fever, grave errors have arisen
in regard to the healthfulness of the climate.
The fever ^eems to have been due rather to
imperfect drainage and defective quarantine
regulations than to any predisposing causes
in the climate. Several years since there
was a convict establishment here, whiob
BERMUDA.
was the means of introducing a very low
class physically,— men predisposed to dis-
ease, and who succumbed at once to attacks
of fever. All this has subjected Bermuda
to imfavorable criticisms respecting the
healthiness of its climate ; but any country
might suffer under lil:.- sanitary conditions.
The convict establishment has recently been
broken up, thereby removing a fruitful
source of disease; and the enactment of
strict quarantine laws, which are rigidly en-
forced upon all vessels, goes far towards pre-
venting the introduction of epidemics from
other places. So admirably are the islands
situated that there is no excuse for defective
damage or quarantine. Strangers usuaUy
' resort here in the winter, and generally speak
highly of the agreeability of the climate.
Earns are quite prevalent at this season, and
most houses are not sufficiently protected
from dampness, as the native Bermudiau
thinks fires unhealthy, and sits on his ve-
randa throughout the year." But grates and
stoves are gaining in favor, and are being
nsed more and more. A few people have
learned that Bermuda is a pleaaant summer
resort, and ict accordingly. There is almost
invariably a good breeze from some quarter,
and the nights and mornings are cool and
deUghtful. Sun-stroke is unknown. August
and September are the hottest and most dis-
agreeable months, owing to the enervating
Boutherly winds. The mercury seldom rises
above 85°, or falls below 40°, whUe the aver-
age is about 70°.
There seem to be no diseases peculiar to
the climate, but there are aUmwits enough
to keep several excellent physicians actively
employed. Consumptives often resort here,
but seldom derive that benefit which they
experience in a dry climate, though they
often improve, and in some caaes are nearly
cured. The climate seems to be especially
beneficial to those afflicted with' rheumatism
and certain nervous diseases. Bronchial af-
fections are generally relieved, and not un-
frequently cured.
" What shall we wear T" may be answered
by saying that in summer ladies find muslins
and thin wash materials most desirable, and
they are worn quite late in the fall. White
dresses are very much wora At other sea-
eons what is suitable for autumn in New
York is worn hera The dress is usually
Tery simple in material as well as style.
Some slight consideration of the political
and social condition of Bermuda may not be
uninteresting. As if to protect them from
invasion, coral reefs, extending some ten
sniles into the sea, threatened with disaster,
If not destruction, the "Ancient Mariner"
who, with imperfect knowledge and rude
craft, attempted to find his way into some
safe harbor. And many a ship in days gone
by has been wrecked on these shores, leav-
ing few or none to teU the tale. In fact, the
colony owes its origin to a disaster. In 1609
a fleet sent out with reinforcements for the
Virginia colony was separated by a storm
and the ship bearing Sir Thoma« Gates and
Sir George Somers was wrecked off the Be*-
mudas. After enduring incredible hardships
for three days, land was " most wishedly and
happily descried" by Sir George Somers, and
not long after there came a cahn, so that
they unshipped their stores, with " aU con-
vemency and eaae," into boats, and reached
land m safetie, without the loss of a single
man." This place, which bad become a ter-
ror to seamen, so that they had named it
The Isle of Devils," Sir George Somers
and party found "the richest, healthfulest,
and pleasantest" they ever saw. After con-
structing two ships they embarked for Vir-
ginia, leaving two men on the island. They
found their countrymen in a most pitiable
condition on their arrival. Supplies were
much needed, and Sir George Somers, " whose
noble minde ever regarded the generall good
more than his own ends," offered to under-
take the voyage to the Bermudas for their
relief. But "the strength of his body not
answering to the memorable courage of Ids
minde," he died shortly after his arrival at
St, George's, named in honor of him.
Such flattering reports were made of the
islands that the Virginia Company procured
an extension of their charter, which included
Bermuda. Soon after one hundred and twen-
ty gentlemen purchased their right,"and all
profits arising from the culture of the soU
were to be divided between the proprietors
and their tenants, who were little superior
to serfs.
The proprietary form of government con-
tinued until 1685, with a long procession of
good, bad, and indifferent governors. The
early history of Bermuda is in many impor-
tant points similar to that of New England.
Like motives had in most instances induced
emigration, and the distinguished character-
istics of those people were repeated here.
Like the Salem colonists, they had their
witchcraft delusion, anticipating that, how-
ever, some twenty years. Christian North
was tried for it in 1668, but was acquitted.
Somewhat later a negro woman, Sarah Bas-
set, was burned in Paget for the same of-
fense, though the more probable cause was
murder. The following curious account was
found recently in some old records at St.
George's :
i* }^\ "u ?.*• ^'eofge's, one Jeane Gardiner, the
wife of Ralph Oardiner, was presented for trial, be-
cause the said Jeane, on or about the 11th dav "f
Aprlil, 1651, feloniously, deliberately, and maliciously
dide saye that she would crampe Tomassin, a mulatto
woman, and used many other threatening words tend-
ing to the hurt of the same mulatto woman'; and
"'L^'l?u*7'*nf J*^'"; ^y practice and combinaUon
with the devill, feloniously dide practice on the said
rnulatto the diabolical craft of witchcraft, insoemnch
that the said mulatto was very much tormented, and
struck blind and dumb, for the space of two honns:
BERMUDi^.
(
and at divers tymee and other places dlde practice the
said deviUish craft of witchcraft on Beverall persons,
to the hurt and damage of their bodyes and goods.
To which Indictment the said Jeane Gardiner pleaded
not guilty ; but the jury of twelve sworn men found
her guilty, and pronounce^ the sentence of death, and
she was accordingly executed on the 26th day of May
at St. George's. The Governor and Counsell was very
carefull in fndinge out the truth, and caused a jury
of women to search her. They returned as followetb :
'Havinge made diligent search, accordinge to our
oathes, we can not find any outwards or inwards
marks, soe far as we can perceive, whereby we can
in conscience finde her guilty, only that in her mouth
there is a blue spott, which being pricks did not bleed,
and the place was insensible, but being pricks r.lose
by it, it bled— the which we leave to the judgment of
Phiseeans.' Mr. Hooper and the Chirurgeons being
appointed to view that spott the day that she was to
come to her trial, it was fallen away and flatt, and
being pricks, it bled, and it was known to be there
eighteen years. And for further triall she was thrown
into the sea. She did swyme like a cork, and could
not sinke. These signs and other strange evidences
in court condemn her, yet nevertheles'j she would con-
fess nothing att her death. She was demanded in
court if she could give a reason why she dide not
sinke. She answered, she dide open her mouth and
breathe, but could not sinke."
Quakers suffered with +he witches just as
with us. Fines, imprisonments, whippings,
tortures, and the death penalty were the
popular methods of exterminating heresy
and glorifying God.
Agriculture was at first the leading pur-
suit, but w» oti of t'he o'ga^whth '2f J," *'« «^'"
•croM between a steam wv' If-*^^-'"^*^, is a
<>rgan,havinJ^wavfin.^:T- '"^ ^^ » ^a°«l-
for instance, J* to Pnfn^'*^ «°*« it««"; «ach,
thf holders thereof fn^.H-^ hymn-books and
aud then staSg'up taLT '^^'"^^on.
•off steam, blowinVaVay & !!,^V'"'°«
inent of fiends thn ni. • * ^''°^® regi-
iflg themselvesto th« nf ?™*^'**'°° «*«rt-
-uder, whUe tho:e* whot^ un^an'? ^* "«"
any noise which would^,! nf ^^'^^^ *<* '"a'^e
find relief in sto^n^nl th ?^*''^ ^*'*^^y "se
fleeting on the pTs Sflitt? /ff ' ^'^^ '» ^«-
thefutL-e''-affftr2 • ®^ °^ *^« " "^"sic of
-ore," «:« nfn^rr^rffof e'^'^;;''^^^
possessed by the eoo^ «Tf ^ excellences
« feeling which Su/r^^I^oPPle with
understood ® experienced to be
emor Popple, ardlCtfrul^l: ?^ J^^"
^es. ^ How the friends otjh'ood^^:,;^--
Biu3L nave cliucklfifl of *u <='-»'•» *^overuor
Of the bad QoveSor i^^ti nf ""^"'^
comings I Th;foKngS.S,"ii'^^^^*
^tes the virtoes of toe^'S^^*"*"™®"*
yoL. XLvnL-wo. ^_33^^ Gtovemor-
PITTS I.AV, HBIIMTOA.
Died at Bermuda. Nov i« .-
«fter Nine Day,' iii„ '" "J '"•Age,
TheViLj ^ "'^ » B'''o"» Fever
ATT T r\I5 ^°°^ Governor '
. ALLURED POPPr p t.
of that little Spot
were to tell how many ereat T,i .
and excellent Endo'wSs^a^""
wanting in some
whom the Capriciousness of Fortune
,_ exposes
>n a more elevated and conspicuous Station.
A+ +1, '-""spicuous Station.
"onjtry, and ev^Z^mf.'"^""' "^
BERMUDA.
'74*
lous Fever,
SQR.
listration,
>e Inhabitant!^
>
hither for their
in him,
desty,
' equal
.the unaffected
's Manners,
levolence,
Eurbed
erit
roach
'^irtues
rnor
ints
me
Station.
Americau
tordiaUy
with all
ding tho
made to
perhaps
satisfac-
tory. He can secure clean rooms, quite
gooil attendance, and almost perfect quiet
The bill of faro Is not, of course, equal to
that of our metropolitan hotels, and one
must Incur the risk of being dissatisfied.
There are, of course, amongst all classes
of travelers, those to whom the privilege
of grumbling is regarded as one of the lux-
uries for which he expends his money, but
It can be truly ?ald that there is no rea-
son in nature why the table in Bermuda
should not satisfy any reasonable person-
If It does not, the fault must lie in the one
who prepares the food, or the partaker of it
and they can easily settle it between them-
selves. The usual price of board at the ho-
tels IS fi 50 per day in gold. Definite ar-
rangements at the outset in regard to car-
nages and horses are wise and economical.
The Bermudian horse is neither stylish nor
flery, but, on the contrary, is a queer-look-
ing beast, constructed with slight regard to
the laws of proportion— a fact of which he
seems to be aware, judging from his confused
appearance at times. There are now and
then some very fair travelers that make up
in speed what they lack in beauty. It may
be pertinent to add that if a carriage is de-
sired at any specified time, it is wise to or-
der it an hour earlier.
Those who plume themselves on their cul-
ture, and who regard all places except those
in which they have resided as very benight-
ed quarters, would, of course, look upon Ber-
muda as almost outside the limits of civili-
zation. Closer acquaintance would dispel
many of these delusions. A stranger would
be impressed at once with the marked court-
esy of the people. From the lowest to the
highest one will receive the most polite at-
tention. A simplicity almost Arcadian char-
acterizes their manners, especially those of
the women. Many who have led very cir-
cumscribed lives, who have never been away
from Bermuda, possess an ease and grace
which would do credit to habitues of socie-
ty, arising apparently from perfect faith iu
others, and an earnest desire to add to their
pleasure in every possible way. In matters
ot etiquette they are generally much more
exact than Americans. The kindliness and
formality aside— and they are not to be un-
derrated—one would hardly derive much in-
spiration from the Bermudian, whose outlook
18 not a broad one. His life has not fostered
extended views, and he is, perhaps, as little
to be blamed for not possessing them as for
being born in mid-ocean.
They are a comfortable, well-to-do set of
people, with here and there a famil" pos-
sessing ample means. As in England,''prop^
erty, especially real estate, remains in the
same family for a long period. There is very
little real suffering from poverty, though
there are many poor people, who had — *her
be poor than make the necessary exer to
improve their condition. In this connectioa
the colored people deserve some notice, form,
ing as they do, a large majority of the pop-
ulation. The importation of negroes from
Atrica ceased long before the abolition of
Slavery which may account for tho improved
type of physiognomy one encounters here,
llie laces of some are flue, and many of the
women are really pretty. They are polite,
about as weU dressed as any body, attend
all the churches, and are members thereof,
are mote interested in schools than the poor
whites, and a very large projwrtion of them
can both read and write. They have their
own secret and benevolent societies, and are
Just as improvident here as elsewhere. If
they have any money, work is uninteresting
to them. When utterly destitnte they aro
ready to improve their finances, but when
pay-day comes they are quite apt to retire
from business and spend their earnings, run-
ning the risk of again finding employment
when compelled by necessity; and most of
them live in this make-shift way all their
lives. A strong feeling of prejudice exists
against them, which will probably die out
when they have acquired a few of the ster-
ling virtues at present monopolized by white
people. ''
Very little time is spent here by any race
m speculations on the dignity of labor-
much more is spent in devising plais for
avoiding it. Degraded by slavery, it has
not risen from its low estate. Skilled work-
men are rare ; there are almost no manufac-
tured articles, neariy every thing being im-
ported from England. The old feeling still
bears sway that work is good for blacks, but
injurious to whites, which is especially un-
fortunate, since so many opportunities are
afforded for testing the question without
[any prejudices to favor the experiment.
Housekeeping, particularly with the many
inconveniences jf the house, the inefficient
service, and proverbially large families, bears
hard upon women who are forced to look
after such affairs. They are noted for their
serenity, as well as for the affection and rev-
erence they pay to what is commonly caUed
the "head" of the family. J' -* ««
To return to the labor question. General-
ly speaking, those who can avoid doing anv
thing make the best of their opportunities':
those who are not so happily situated do as
little as possible. Driving one dark night,
a number of people were met. John reined
up his horse suddenly, exclaiming, as he did
HO -"WaII T;1on1n«nl J.1 J>_11__ .
so, " Well, I declare ! these folks are too lazy
to git oat o' the way of a kerridge."
" So you think them lazy t"
"Lazyf they're the dilat'ri'st set o' folks
I ever see. Give 'em a piece of work to do,
and they'll begin well enough on it, but
they're ready very soon to lay down along-
side of It. I never see men that would
scheme so to git oat o' doin' any thing as.
BERMUDA.
they will. Set a lot of 'em to work and
tLoy begin to plan right away to see' W
bad frleuds, but I never see a Ln herTv ?
that I couldn't do twice as mucras he"' ^
John ]8 an acute observer
But if any thing must be done, it may as
tie u,e of r..,L, ^' ^ Sfaitfu 'a"
ropMo ia some Mlaw. too Th.L ''""^
most a, . ,„„^ .or;„,e^ r ..""l" ;
"P his ideas, he wTll "hoi ^' ""'" S'^*^
pleasant time. FovSn^tZ T ^^^'''^^^"Sly
disposes one tn ^?r . ^ ^^^ ^^""^te pre-
in-rVcw v^,o r*''^ ''^*"''«' and the exact-
A 8TBKW 80BNK IN ST. OKOllOK's
" It will. It 18 worth haviujr • if 4^ „•„
not, somebody else mav bnv i w 1 '^
not ■«.'».„* •'.'"' /"ay ouy it, for he will
two ? Those in l.i« ri; • ' * y^"'" o^
hnndredanTfi tyy Lsoir'^Thr "'^, ^•'^^
worth talking about ^ "'^ '^^^'«
|peS;s;i;;isi:ss:.l^--'-
wonder anfl T 1 , *^^'^'^^"*^out
V'illitlastf"
:; if it will
for he will
o'-ied chair,
a a year or
lu are one
y are chairs
ericans, es-
8 him with
avely sug-
se must be
h him and
telle. He
leal of it.
who real-
e requii-es
ite's sake,
atriots in
Bermuda,
>u liquors
amount,
it is not
feness to
ersation,
ood man
nee said
sd those
ereto by
Life is not nearly aa dull here m might be
supposed. There are plenty oi out-door
amusements — driving, rowing, yachting,
there being a fine club bore; cricket and
croquet, dinner-parties, balls, enliven the
time, onpecially in wialer. There ore al-
ways two regiments of troops stationed here,
together with some marines, and all this
gives a certain tone to society. The " men"
are uot much noticed, but oflQcers are not
neglected. In ^ great many cases their
clothes are tho most interesting part of
them, but stili life is brighter and livelier
with than it would be without them. Ber-
muda takeo her place a« a naval and military
station, oad gets all she can out of it.
The Governor receives every Wednesday.
On Saturday a croquet party is usually given
at Mount Laugton, his residence. The ladies
arc dressed in simple garden costume. Some
play, while others sit and talk under the
crees. The learned judge, the sedate parson,
the doughty colonel, the jovial marine, aU
mingle here, and take a hand in the game.
The conversation may, and may not, be in-
different. You may hear the household gos-
sip, or, if skillful, may listen to " bits of
talk" about India during the rebellion, about
China, the scenery of Jamaica, the gay life
at Malta, or the dear old England. So the
play and the talk go on until refreshments
are announced, which are served in the pret-
ty dining-room overlooking the eea. There
may be music from some regimental band
which will be very fair. These bands often
play at their rooms, and it proves quite a
pleasant entertainment.
However interesting Bermuda may be to
the pleasure-aeeker it is even more so to the
scientist, in proof of which statement I
make the following extract from one of
Colonel Nelson's valuable letters: "I have
often regretted the want of a suitable op-
portunity of impressing on the world of nat-
uralists the expediency of occupying Bermu-
da as a point with especial advantages for
study in many branches of their craft. It
is decidedly a hot climate in summer. One
immeuMo advantage to the naturalist in these
islands is the characteristic tendency and
necessity of coral formations to form well-
sheltered lagoons. This, however, would be
of small avail if there were sharks, but there
is only one species there— the so-called blue
shark, which rarely comes within the reefa
unless tempted to do so in the whaling sea-
son, and even then is never aggressive,
though ho will fight if attacked. Again,
the water on its sandy bottom is so exqui-
sitely transparent, exactly the color of the
aqua-marine variety of beryl, that in a dead
calm I have distinctly seen worm heaps, cor-
allines, etc., at a depth of eleven fathoms,
which I measured exactly. Again, the sum-
mer temperature there admits of such pro-
longed working in the water. My last good
day's work was on November 5, 1832, when, as
usual, I remained from three to four hours,
swimming, wading, and creeping on all fours."
A surperficial survey may be made of Ber-
muda in a month. More critical observa-
tions will require six months or a year. Ho
who has found in nature a friend or teach-
er will here have abundant cause for renew-
ing big love, or opportunity for adding to
his knowledge, and will bear away a mem-
ory of its beautiful scenes which will enrich
a lifetime.— ^7*om Harpers Magazine.
BAVIMB ON 80UTU BUOBI, BEBUUOA.
Wf^ETO^g;
TERMS— $2 JO to $3.00 per day.
For furtber i.formafor., apply to Mrs. J. W. DODGE, Mt. Washington Summit
House, tJl 0-. -.« 1 ; .fterwards, HamUton Hotel, Eennfa.
i^
FOR LIVERPOOL;
Via QUEE:NrSTOW^>J^,
CARRYING THE UNITED STATES MAILS,
^^>^^ -
i\t.-^f-
,%f^"^7^^'y^lgi»>»-
,i^
From Pier 53, North B.ivor, lT©w Tork,
EVERY TUESDAY.
WYOMING
NEVADA
WISCONSIN
3,716 Tons.
3,125 "
3,720 "
IDAHO
MONTANA
ARIZONA
3,132 Tons.
4,320 "
4,500 "
These Steair.ers are built of Iron, in water-tight compartments, and are furnished
with every requisite to make the passage across the Atlantic both safe and agreeable.
The State-rooms are all on neck, thus insuring those greatest of
all luxuries at sea, perfect ventilation and ligM.
The U. S. Mail Steamer "CANIMA," sailing from Bermuda, Thursday, generally
arrives at New York on Monday, and Passengers' baggage can be transferred di rec
to the Liverpool Steamer sailing next day.
RATES FOR PASSENGERS REDUCED.
STEERAGE -
INTERMEDIATE
•26 00
40 00
CABIN - S55, 865 and $75 00
(according to State-rocm.)
OFFICES, NO. 29 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.
WILLIAMS & GUION.
/■•;■.
THE OLD RELIABLE
NORTH GERMAN LLOYD
U :N E Q U A. L L E ID
-F O R-
-)OF(-
MAIL STEAMSHIPS
FROM
NEW YORK EVERY SATURDAY
FOR
'w®m% mmi
^®i)
mm
rm
u
FPJE FAS8ACT AIB STATE^KOOMS
APPLY TO
Old Post Office Building, or 202 St. James Street,
New York Office: No. 2 Bowling Green.
^i-^n,^,,^ vjt xj{j,^ uenerai Agents.
RAWMNG'S
WORLD-RENOWNED
English Aerated Beverages
ooi^
XSX3M-0-
lllilTOI eiLTIl
^I'l
~ iiiiii Am,
Pronounced by the highest authorities to be the
These Waters are delightfully refreshing and invigor-
ating, and at the same time act as a gentle
corrective to the system.
Special arrangements can be made with the unaersigned for
the supply of these Waters, all duties and freights paid, in any
City in the United States or Canada.
The terms will be quoted on application— the price being
according to distance on account of freight.
BDWARD RAlVLiIIffGS A CO.,
Sole A gents for the United States and Canada,
103 St, Francois Xavier Street,
MONTJtEAL,
NEWPORT, VT.
BUCK & ROBINSON
Pr,
^ "OrtL COUPOJVS ICCFr-r,-,^ ,
WHEN YOU VISIT OR LEA^^
CITY OF NSW YOSK.
' solicit you to stop at the
OPPOSITE GRAND CENTRAL DEPOT.
. 350 ELEGANT ROOMS
ON EUROPEAN Pi,A.V "^
ONLY $1.00 AND UPWARD PER DAY
BEST and CHEAPE^ReMRANT ia the CITY.
BAGGAGE D^LTOEEi, TO AND TEOM THE DEPOT PBEE.
W^. D GAn-RTan-KT
:<<;;
Il
shed throughout
summer tourists
hundred guests.
Alleys, Croquet
^ndance. Good
the junction of
be maintained,
patronage last
their stay long
g of GUSTAVE
ffice Building,
rsoN,
OPRIETORS.
''EL.
R'
[S
:iTY.
ager.
A
Tourj^s ang Pjeasiire Travellers
IS T^ ROUtR OE THfe :
w- the miyestic River and Gulf of Stv t^Wrence in sight of the ^^
; :; gr^dest scenery and many histjjii'ical points, calling at numerous
$ea-lxathing;resorts on the south shore of theCluTf, giving the ^
iportsraan and ^gler a chance to visit the most far-famed
^f-Kivfers,Bdys and Inlets, whfeh swaritJ with trout and salmon.-;
V,; -The Stedmefts connect at Point duCHie^e(Shediac) witji^
: Intesrcojontal- R. IR. for St. John, N. iB., thence by cars arid
4,, steamers to Portland and fiostouf and dt Fictou with Interr
: ,^ colonial H, JR. for Ifaliftpc^ N. S., connecting there with Railway
or Steamer, Hnes for St, jQiin,P6itland ^od: Boston. This is I
%
• ' ^ ; ^^ExcurSioii T i<;kets fi'otii Kew York,>Boston or other points
in Nw ;Eii^g^^ Quebec, thence \ia Gulf Poic»
^" St6^merS;^o -Shediac, N. fij, Gharlottetown^ P. E, L, Pictou,
N: S.) Str John, N. B;, Halifax, N. S, passing through all
v points of interest in the maritime prokvinces and returning
by either Rail pr Steamer to Portland, Boston and New
York, or vtc$ vers^, for sale in New York, Boston, and prin-
cipal points in Newfn^landv at // O^c^j 5g///«^ Excursion
J. 'Ask Ticket Agent for Gulf Ports Steamer Circular, whicl?
will givevpu all particular inforniation/^fld map of rout€i» ; ; r
^. IIQOI^E; Blanager.
' r^;'
i^s^a.-,-'^.
A. ENILIUS ODTERBRIDGE, Agent,
L-i-r ,K J,..
■■"■Y,
*■" -'■' •'
SMO. 13rttiMl|i|^at*t