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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 t 3 1 a 3 4 6 • |vi339f*'' ii^^^^^^ wif ' J 1 i - :■. ^ Wtufi ■ ,^ ) \¥?rW 1 ml i If..-. ^ ft H.^hsnt'^'a/ J:;' ^x ■ " » ^^^r-' #1 B,/ '^ iS^:'" '^!^ p^' ■•^g«ji?\ 3^» ^/ I'T' ^ Ajfi (;•* f « 1 7? ^ STCRiM RAILROAD, K.*' <' ^i.' White MlUiitaiiis, ML i„_ „ ^^_.,^ K>BTa;,ANB, BANGOR, ST. JOHH, HAIJFAZ, AadtapMrteof •l^lilB A iASTfemi PROViMcea ^^ penqfT ON 0AU8EWAY STREET. ^*llM?&fel^ Hotrtwt IfB]^ HoM Ltoti^ An., wm tw quiiled H 4 ' Pk^^ B. JAOEipsr, :n^iiii«itt pAtisoir 3i^oKEit» ^mmA *' itT ic r- ■tjiimii ■•lH""""" ijiipn '■t;. ^. ^ rE^if rw^;-'v '^^s-'^i^^'' ismm, n^^•:,tK MARmME PROVINCES. Alt 51 * 'is -f#'l.'9*^^v'^' Bit f«|rw ■"■' "W^l ^^* T^^ K i \ ^ vie ^r''p^?5! i^f 9lM MiIm #vtii« liMil il#n«*k« J ■^(•M* -' l^f'-- ..4f..>c^ '.y^!;^'^ ^^.■^■:'.:^ ;*'? ' ' . *•■•"" ',■ fm.: ■■ s S i '^f:i ■» s K,V^ liitQfObtIf mAlfQBUIYMif *^^y l ^iiii Ol ii i i»i i i | iii i ii . .i n > » I^MQHI*. «*w>*w*wiii)ii i"i mi'i * ■iw I j'liiin «iii|i|i mMMmm •^^< '•vtiWpl* ' . ' "" i i i 'MW i I II jl i| IH, | : , ' I II ' * ■< " >»' ^}4ji™f ^*'K THE MARITIME PROVINCES: HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. A GUIDE TO THB CHIBF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OF THE MABITIMB PBOT- IMCBS OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AMD HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THB GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL; ALSO, NEWFOUNDLAND AND TUB LABRADOB COAST. With Four Mapt and Four JPlana, THIRD EDITION. REVISED AND ENLARGED. BOSTON: JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 1883. eCoi^^iiBL Vv ■■ COPTBIOKT 187B tan 1888, ^ Br JAMES S. OSGOOD ft GO. .. • * *> • « * • '«' H k . • « < * , . . • • . - • » • .- , ' » t » « / » 1 •• • ♦•. ■ I. t.j .»»•»■■• •• f.*.. •• «• •• ''• •■'• TJKIVXB8XTT PBX88; Jomr WxuoH aitd Sok, Oambbzsgx. Y % - \\ ■*»v«.lP. «l»M > w\ \ * Vv ■■ PREFACE. Tn ebief object of the Handbook to the ICaritime Provinces is to snpplj the place of a guide in a land where professional guides cannot be found, and to assist the trayeller in gaining the greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while passii^ through the most interesting portions of Eastern British Anierica. The St Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casa- allj treated in books which cover wider sections of country (the best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. The present guide-book is the first which hae been devoted to their treatm^it in a combined form and according to the most approved principles of the European works of similar purpose uid character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have never before been mentioned in works of this chan.ri,er. The Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all of the notable places in the MariUme Provinces, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, and statistics of the chief industries of the included Provinces. The brilliant and picturesque records and traditions of the early French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of the Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection with the localities made &mous in those remote days ; and the lemarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians are 110378 it FBITAGft %.■* ineosponted wiili the aeooinilB of the pleoet made deMte hf them. The nsral and militaiy opeiatioiui of the wan whiek eentred on Port Boyal, Louisbonig, and Quebec have been eon- denaed from the best authorities, and the moumful events which aie commemorated in '^ Evangeline " are herein analyzed and recorded. The noble coast-scenery and the favorite snmmer- yoyages with which the northern seas abound have been d^ acribed at loigth in these pages. The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European Handbooks of Earl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence tiie grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have made his works the most popular in Europe, have -also bten attained in the present volume. Nearly all the fiicts concerning the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or yeiified from the Editor's personal experience, after many months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especial- ly amid the rapid chimges which are ever going on in America, and hence the Editor would be grateful for any bona fide cor- rections or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may &vor him. The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to similar figures, attached to lists of the chief public buildings, hotels, churches, and notable objects. The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which are bdieved by the Editor to be the most comfortable and elegant M. F. SWEETSEB, Sdiior of OtgootTs American Handbookt, ill Tremoni St,, bottom ^^f«f". 4 .!•' ^^ k S'^^ ii. *^; ::. NV "fyiUU /ffaftS>>ruM^ K^ \M /jflaOMB DsaMa K C^ ^/^t^^llllSlk^nS^I hkB^^^I ^^([^^ <.^_^XilS ^1 jJnv'-^-v—r'''^ *mde '5"i«^ \lebl rt*'>^ /1>W ^?mii IT- i>««cli ywT"* toj li: t|i' \k*W^e wMsmwHrn |jRr mmTzA 111 ^ SiuJldssa •o^ ^Z' IB »r<^; .Elii tPuyo^yU ''ltfff/(//l(//((l)W' l1 %1 L \ * ^ m^,^ .^"sc^ ^EU jA i'* OiTJ »^ «fl^ ^i* .>;^". .Ol»«J la^-- lettB, ^ ShMtl om inSton i' a » t - MHp o brt •.-ad ^^~^ klt>i Mk ^liaj •W/'> Lajr reiJQj^D M ^"^^^^^ ^ ^^ ^!k ^kl^^^^T^dm ^y^l R?>- c^ ^» ^^^ j^^ZJ icuicfc tttB., fx. MAP or THE MiiimMi: piifiicii WITH PORTIONS or MAINE & QUEBEC. rUBLlSHhlD rOACCOMl*ANY The Maritmie ProviiieevS : aHaiuibook forTravellea's" JAMES R. OSGOOD A C9 BOSTON AMSS. SCIAI.E or MILKS ^11 I __ y " PREP/\P£P pyG:y^4CB.COLTo;( 4C9l78-)V»u.OA(fi' ffewyoHfi '^. "^^^ It inc thei cen^ dei arel reel vo;l 0CI / > « ^ ■^mv ki ...j|>-i Kr.) .^0 "I'-f: n>sfA r. ^"^:^/S w W^-^^^^V' ■r '§! -•V ' ' ff >/'■■' m ■ '. Ui 'W' f* BM ■ ^ fi k' '^}^l %: ■i /k/' f 1 r- 1 T-^^ V BT ■■'^V >■' 'y- mu,i v/ ^ 'T., I^^l?;. -" X ^r^ II. Newfoundland and Labrador , . S ^"^^^ IIL MONKT AND TrATELLINO ExFEMSBS . . . i . . .#,;,.. lY^ Railways /lnd Steakboatb. <. . . ' . . * • 4 ;; V. Round-Trip Excursions . S ,; VI. Hotels . , , • , ,T ^i'lJm V7L Language .7 ,»| ¥IIL CUMATB AND DRESS 8 "^ mJL* inSHINQ • • • • • • •• •« • • .'V X. Miscellaneous Notes . • 9 .^ j>a NEW BRUNSWICK. BOIJTK General Notes . . . . . . . . . . . 18 \| L St. John ............. 10 ;,^^1. 8. The Environs op St. John ........ .• 88 ■4'''^M 1. Lily Lake. Manh Road ^||jii|H#' 8. Mispeck Road. Suspension Bridge ..... -^^Wti 8. Carleton 84 >i> 8. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. FAsaAKAQUODDY Bat . 88 4 Qrand Manan ...$8 78. Cawpobello 88a, /| & St. John to St. Andrews and ^. Stephen. Fassamaquodot Bat 80 L St Geoxge. Lake Utopia . . . . . , . . .88 ^1 8. St Andrews. Chamcook Mountain . . . . . 88 8^ St Stephen. Scboodic Lakes .86 -^J ft St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton . 88 7. St. John to Banoor, . . , .87 8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River .... 88 1. Kennebecasis Bay 40 8. Belleisle Bay ...... ^ ..... 48 8. Fredericton . . . . . . . . « . . .* 44 - %•« 4. Fredericton to Miramichi « . , . , . . . 48 " ^'^ 8i Washadbmoax Lake . , , « « . . , . . . 47 la Grand Lake . . . , ., « . . , , . 48 11. Fredericton to Woodstock . , . . . . . » . 418 ^¥^ 18. FRB^mtcTON to Woodstock, mr the St. Johv Biveh . . . 81 '^^f 18l Woodstock to Grans Falls AKD Riviftm D9 Lqup . , . . 88 4 • ■. ^r ."^■'. OONTKBIT& 1 fbbiqae to Bftthnnt .... ^ % The 8t John to the Reitlgoache > . & The IfadawBSka District 4. Tks Maine Woods. Temiscouata Lake . U, St. John to Sbkdiac 16. Tub B4t of Ckalkub asi> tbv Nobth Bhobe or 1. Chatham to Shippigan .... 8. Shippigan. Bay of Chaleur . 8. Bathurat to Caraquette 4. Campbellton to St Flavir ,. M. St. Johh to Amberst and Haufax . L <)uaco. Sussex Vale . . Sl Albert County. Moncton to Quebec . :>^--'> tSAOft M • ... ■ ft7 • ' . .08 . . M New Bbumswick 00 ta . 64 ... 66' . 6» . . 70 . 71 7S '9^i\/ '■■},'^i" 8. Dorchester. Sackville . 78 #J NOVA SCOTIA. General Notes . . . 17. St. John to Amhsbst and Halifax ..... 1. Tantramar Marsh. Chignecto Peninsula 8. North Shoi^ of Nova Scotia 18. St. John to Halifax, st the Annapolis Valuit L Annapolis Royal '^3. The Annapolis Valley . 8. Kentville to Chester 19. Haufax ' . , $0k The Bnvibons of Halifax 1. Bedford Basin. Point Pleasant SI. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. John .... 1. Advocate Harbor and Cape d'Or ....... 2. The Basin of Minas 88. The Land of Evangeline . . . .' 88. Annapous Royal to Clabe and Yarmouth 1. The Clare Settlements 2. The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago 84. DiQBV Neck 8K. &AUFAX TO Tabhouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia 1. Cape Sambro. Lunenburg 8. Liverpool 8. Shelbume 4 Cape Sable a& Halifax to Tabhouth, by the Shore Route . . . . 1. Chester. Mahone Bay . Si Chester to Liverpool . . . . . . . . 87. The Liverpool Lakes r . , . . 88, Halifax to Tanoieb 81^ Thb Nobthbabt CoiAST or Nova Scotia ^ flUMUB l8Ujn> 76 78 70 81 88 85 d& 90 9S 100 100 101 106 104 107 112 113 115 116 117 118 180 181 123 126 127 128 129 181 188 184 (XnSTENTB. Tii 5i 57 68 60 00 61 M ro a rs r6 rs r» n » Mm 81. St. John asd Halifax to Piotov . • . . .180 82. St. Jobh avs Halotax to thb Stkait of Gaxbo axd Cafb Buooar 188 CAFE BRETON. General Notes . . . 141 88. Ths Strait or Canso 148 84. Arichat Ain> Isle Madamx .:...... 145 85. The Strait of Camso to Sydney, CAPfe BRETOif .... 148 86. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton 148 87. The East Coast of Cape Breton. The Sydney Coal-Fixum . 158 88. The Fortress of Louisbouro . . . ... . . 154 89. The North Shore of Cape Breton .158 L St Anne's Bay . 158 8. St. Paul's IsUnd 160 40. The Bras d'Or Lakes 161 1. Baddeck 162 8. Great Bras d'Or Lake . 164 8. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 166 41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood 167 1. St. Patrick's Channe? . Wbycocomagh . . . . . . 167 41 The West Coast of Cape Breton l6S L Port Hood. Mabou. . . . . . ... 169 2. Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale . 170 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. General Notes . 172 48. Shediac to Summersidb and Cbarlottbtown .... 174 L The Northumberland Strait . . . . . . . .174 44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island . ... . . . 176 45. Charlottetown . . .175 1. Environs of Charlottetown 177 40. Charlottetown to Summersidb and Tignish. The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island 177 1. Rustico. Suminerai<'e 178 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown 180 48. Charlottetown to SorRts . . . . . . . . .182 49. The Magdalen Islands . . . . . . . . . 188 60. St. Pierre and Miquelon . .185 NEWFOUNDLAND. General Notes 18t 61. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland 188 62. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 68. The Environs of St. John's 196 1. Portugal Cove. Logie Bay. Torbay 196 64. TBI BnuiT Shore of Avalon. St. Jomr's to Caps Rack . 100 ■*' ■>, Tiii OOHTJBM'IV. MOB L The Onnd Buiki of Newfomidland IM 05. Br. Jomr's lo LABKADom. Tub NoRTBnor Coast or NiwiovirDi.An> 100 1. BonaTista Bay M 1 TwlUingate. Exploite Island ....... fl05 60. St. John's to Concsftiom Bat 6\ Twanrr Bat. . . ' . S& Thb Bat or Notbi Damb SIO 60. FLAoamA Bat SIS 00. The Wnrsitir Octpobts. 8t. Jomr's to Capb Rat .... SIS 1. Fortune Bay S14 2. Hennitage Bay 816 0L Tbb Fbbnch Shobb. Cape BIat to Capb St. Jobb . . . S10 1. The Interior of NewfoundUmd S18 5. The Strait of Belle Isle SSO LABRADOR C(eneral Notes 228 01 Tbb Atlantic Coast, to tbb Mobavian Missions and Obbinlabd 224 1. The Moravian Missions 226 08. The Labbadob Coast or tbb Stbait or Belle Islb . . . SS7 04. Tbb Labbaix^ Coast or the OvLr or St. Lawbencb . . . SSO 1. The Mingan Islands . , S81 8. The Seven Islands . S8S 06. Abticosti . . . 28A PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. General Notes .......... 086 0OL PiCTOo TO Quebec. The Coasts or OaspI . . ' . ... 888 1. Faspebiac . . 840 2. Ferc«. 848 8. Oasp6 844 0^. Tbb Loweb St. Lawbencb 840 1. Father Foint Rimooski 850 8. Bic. Trois Pistoles 851 8. St Anne de la Pocatiire. Llslet 858 08l Quebec 866 1. Durham Terrace 850 2. Jesuits' College. Basilica * . . 861 8. Seminary SOS 4. Laval University. Parliament Building 868 6. HdtelDieu. Around the Ramparts 806 0. The Lower Town 871 00. The Envibons or Quebec ......... 870 L Beauport Montmorencl Fallf . . . . . . .876 8l Indian Lorette 878 8. Ch4teaix Bigot Silleiy ... 880 4. FointLevL Chandi^re Falls ....... S8S " 4 OOMTENTBw ^ti ■■ 4 PAOB 70i QuBBio TO La Bomm Bti. Axnn . S88 L The Falls of 8t Anne S86 71. Tn Isle or OiOBAin S88 72. QuEBBC TO Cacocita akd TBI Baquxvat Bitxb . . . . S91 L 8t Paul's Bay 99t S. Murray Bay SM 8. Cacouna S96 78. Thb Saouemat River ..197 1. Tadousac 209 2. Chicoutimi 800 8. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St John . . . . ... . .801 4 Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity . 808 74. Quebec to Montreal. The St. Lawrence River .... 805 75. Montreal 809 L Victoria Square. Notre Dame 811. 3. The GesiL St. Patrick's Church 818 & Cathedral McOill University. Great Seminary . . . .814 4 HdtelDieu. Mount BoyaL Victoria Bridge .... 816 7& The Environs of Montreal 818 1. Armmd the Mountain. Sault au Recollet 818 2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga 819 & BeloeUMt St Anne 820 Index to Localities 821 Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions .... 882 Index to Quotations S 888 Index to Railways and Steamboats 884 List or Authoritxbs Consulted . . . . . . ... 884 i "'>« r -.''•^M I ^*.+,;-. ^ .. 1. Map or the Makitimk PiioviHcn. & Map op Nkw^uholand and Labbador. & Map op trb Acadian Land. 4. Map op ths Saovenat Rivkb. 5. Map op the Lower St. Lawrence Riter. PLANS OF CITXB8. 1. St. John : between pages 14 and 15. 8. EUlifax : between pages 92 and 98. 8. Quebec : between pages 254 and 255. 4 Montreal : between pages 908 and 309. ABBREVIATIONS. N. — Nortli, Northern, etc. S.— South, etc. '■ - K— East, etc. ^^^y W. — West, etc. \'y:^-"'\~ N. B. — New Bninswick. N. 3. -'Nova Scotia. N. P. — Newfoundland. ^b£^/r. Lab. — Labrador. P. E. L — Prince Edward Island. P. Q. — Province of Quebec M. — mile or miles. r.— right 1.— left. ft — foot or feet hr. — hour. min. —minute or minatet. AtteriEkt denote ottjects deserving of special attentioB. jr. [■^ <-Tt iK,:^ V '■^ -'J- ' •■■ A^ nut I 4; ■! INTRODUCTION. ! Z. Plan of Tour. Ths most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to keep moving, and his route should be made to include as many as pos- sible of the points of interest which are easily accessible. There are but few places in this region where the local attractions are of sufBcient inter- est to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- gers are adapted to make such a sojourn pleasant The historic and scenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- out the country, affording rare opportunities for journeys whose general course may be replete with interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- time Provirces are their history during the Acadian era and their noble coast scenery, — the former containing some of the most romantic episodes in the annals of America, and the latter exhibitiL^g a marvellous blending of mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. And these two traits are intertwined throughout, for there is scarce a promontory that hasi not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a bay that has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- culated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- ist, accustomed to the homogeneousness of the cities and rural communi- ties of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- men or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- toms, and amusements unaffected by th j presence and pressure of British influence aud power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska and the entire island of Cape Breton. The people of the cities and the English settlements are quaintly ultra-Anglican (in the secular sense of the word), and follow London as closely as possible in all matters of cos- tume, idiom, and social manners. All these phases of provincial life and history afford subjects for study or amusement to the traveller, and may serve to make a summer voyage both interesting and profitable. Travelling has been greatly facilitated, within a few years, by the es- tablishment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces. From the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist INTBODUCnON. Kill be able to compute the cost of bis trip, both in money and in time. The following tour wonld indode $, glimpse at the chief attractions of the country, and will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite : — Boston to St John 1^ days. St. John 1 St. John to Antiapolis and Halifax . . . . 2 Halifax 1 Halifax to Sydney . . . . . . . 1^ The Bras d'Or Lakes 1 Port Hawkesbury to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac 2 Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) 4 Quebec ......... 8 Quebec to Boston . . . . ... .1 I'ailures to connect . 8 21 days. To this circular tour several side-trips may be added, at the discretion of the traveller.. The most desirable among these are the routes to Pas- samaquoddy Bay, the St John River, the Basin of Mines joum. The shop-keepers are apt to charge at least full prices to people who have American money. Canada bills are issued for one and two dollars. American silver is very unstable in its valuation, since a 25-cent piece goes for from 20 to S4 cents in thi same city and on the same day, the rato of exchange apparently depending on the time of day and the mood of the shop-keeper. Nova-Scotian or Canadian money is held at a heavy discount in New- foundland, and it is better to carry greenbacks there. 17. Bailwayi and Steamboati. The new-bom railway system of the Maritime Provinces is being ex- tended rapidly on all sides, by the eneigy of private corporations and the liberality of the Canadian Government. The lines are generally well and securely constructed, on English principles of solidity, and are not yet burdened by such a pressure of traffic as to render travelling in any way dangerous. The can) are built on the American plan, and are suf- ficiently comfortable. On most trains there are no accommodations for smokers, and, generally, when any such convenience exists, it is only to be had in the second-class cars. Pullman qars were introduced on the Intercolonial Railway in 1874, and will probably be reteined there during the summer seasons. They have been used on the EurcT)dan and North American road for some years. There are restaurants at convenient dis- tances on the lines, where the trains stop long enough for passengers t) take their meals. The narrow-gauge cars on the Prince Edward Island Railway will attract the attention of travellers, on account of their singular construction. The tourist has choice of three grades of accommodation t I INTRODUCTION. ez- and well not any suf- Isfor ^y to the ing rth dia« t> Hand liar I 5 The on the chief railways, — Pullman car, first-class, and second-claM. latter mode of travelling is very uncomfortable. The steamships which ply along these coasts affbrd material for a naval museum. At least two vessels of the Quebec and Qulf Ports fleet were captured blc^.kade-runners ; the Edgar Stuart was one of the most daring of the Cuban supply-ships, and was nearly the cause of a battle between the Spanish steamer Tornado and the U. S. frigate Wyoming, in the harbor of Aspinwall ; the M. A. Starr was built for a British gunboat ; it is claimed that the Virgo was intended for a U. S. man-of-war ; and there are several other historic vessels now engaged in these peaceful pursuits. Good accommodations are given on the vessels which ply between Boston and St. John and to Halifax and Prince Ed- ward Island. The cabins of the Quebec and Gulf Ports steamships are elegantly fitted up, and are airy and spacious. The Annapolis, Minas, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland lines have comfortable accom- modations, and the YaTinouth and North Shore vessels are also fairly equipped. The lines to the Magdalen Islands, St. Pierre, and along the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts are primarily intended for the trans- portation of freight, and foi' successfully encountering rough weather and heavy seas, and have small cabins and plain fare. The Saguenay steam- ers resemble the better class of American river-boats, and have fine accommodations. Since the Canadas are under the English social system and have retained the Old- World customs, it will l>e found expedient, in many cases, to conciliate the waiters and stewards by small gifts of money. As the results thereof, the state-rooms will be better cared for, and the meals will be more promptly and generously served. The Mail-Stages. — The remoter districts of the Provinces are visited by lines of stages. The tourist will naturally be deceived by the grandil- oquent titles of " Royal Mail Stage," or " Her Majesty's Mail Route," and suppose that some reflected stateliness will invest the vehicles that bear such august names. In point of fact, and with but two or three exceptions, the Provincial stages are far from corresponding to such ex- pectations ; being, in most cases, the rudest and plainest carriages, some- times drawn by but one horse, and usually unprovided with covers. The fares, however, are very low, for this class of transportation, and a good rate of speed is usually kept up. T. Boand-Trip Exoanioaii. During the summer and early autumn the railway and steamship com- panies publish lists of excursions at greatly reduced prices. Information and lists of these routes may be obtained of Lucius Tuttle, General Pas- senger Agent of the Eastern R. R., Boston; W. H. Kilby, of the In- ternational Steamship Co., Boston; and Leve&Alden, Passenger AgentSi 6 INTRODUCTION. 16 State Street, Boston, and 207 Broadway, New York. Small booka an issued every spring by these companies, each ii^ving several hundred combinations of routes, with their prices. They may be obtaine4 on application, in person or by letter, at the above-mentioned offices. Tlie excursion tickets are good during the season, and have all the privileges of firstrclass tickets. The following tours, selected from the books of the three companies, Trill serve to convey an idea of the pecuniary expense incurred in a trip from Boston through the best sections of the Maritime Provinces. INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO. HaliYax Bound Trip Excurtion. — hMUm to St. John hj Intemationai Steamsnlp Co.'o Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundt Steamers : Annapolis to HalUkz by W. & A. Railway ; HalifiuE to St. John by Intercolonial Railway ; St John to Boston by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers. Fare, 918. Three Provinces Excursion, — Boston to St. John by International Steam- ship Co.>8 Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; Annapolis to HaU&z by W. &A. Railway ; Halifla to Pictou by Intercolonial Railway ; Pio* ton to Charlottetown by P. B. I. Steamers } Cbarlottetown to Summerslde l^y P. B. I. Railwav ; Summerslde to Sbediac by P. E. I. Steamers ; Shediae to St. John by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston by Intemationai Steamship Co.*s Steamers. Fare, 9 22. Eastport Excursion. — Boston to Eastport, and return, by Intemationai Steam^ ship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, 9 7.60. St. John Excutsion. —Boston to Eastport, and St. John, and return, by Intei^ national Steamship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, 9 8-o0. EASTERN RAILROAD. Oraiid Falls, If. B., and Return, via Fredericton. Boston to Portland Eastern Railroad. Portland to Bangor Maine Central Railroad. Bangor to Yanceboro' European and North American Vj, Tanceboro' to Woodstock New Bmnswiok and Canada R'y. Woodsitook to Grand Falls New Brunswick Railway. Grand Falls to Gibson (opposite Frederic- ton) New Bmnswiok Railway. Frederleton to Fredericton Junction Frederioton Railway. Vrederieton Junction to Yanceboro' St. John and M^ne Railway. Tanceboro' to Baagor. European and North American Sailwaj. Bangor to Portland Maine Central Railroad. Portland to Boston Eastern Railroad. jB»t6 from Boston .... S 19. MoUifax, y. S., and Jteium* Boston to Portland Eastem Railroad. Portland to Bangor Maine Central Railroad. Bangor to Yanoeboro' European and North American R'y. Yanceboro' to Oarleton St. John and Maine Railway. Carieton to St. John Ferry. St. John to Annapolis Union Line Steamers. Annapolis to HalUkz Windsor and Annapolis Railway. Return same route. Il»te frtnn Boston .... 9 21 .76. ffaltfax, N. S., and Setwm, via Quebec and Montreal, Boston to Portland Eastem Railroad. Portland to Bangor. Maine Central Railroad. Bangor to Yanoeboro* European and North A meriean K^y. Yanoeboro' to Oaitoton.... St. John and Maine IaUwij. 1 ] 1 ] t f 1 I s 8 n 11 •w n t( fc la C( tl el w ai INTRODUCTION. are bred on The eges the ense time ionai aen: lOnial ,»18. Eeam- kpoUs ; Pio- to Si. Dship team* [ntei^ Oarleton to St. John Terry. St. John to HalUkx Intercolonial Railway. Halifitz to Quebec Intercolonial Railway. Quebec to Montreal Grand Trunk Railway. MoBkraal to Portland Qraod Trunk R^lway . Portland to Boston Eaatem Railroad. Rate from Boston .... 9 40.60. The route-book of the Boston & Maine Railroad may be obtained by sending to the General Passenger Agent, D. J. Flanders, Boston. The prices of its excursion-tickets are about the same as those of the Eastern Railroad. VI. Hotels. The hotels of the Maritime Provinces are far behind the age, and thereby tiie pleasure of a journey in this beautiful region is greatly lessened for the sybaritic Americans. The general rates at the better ho- tels of the second-class is $ 2 a day; and the village inns and country tav- erns charge from $ 1 to $ 1.50, with reductions for boarders by the week. VII. lAngnage* The English language will be found sufficient, nnless the tourist desires to visit the more remote districts of Cape Breton, or the Acadian settle- ments. The Gaelic is probably the predominant language on Cape Breton, but English is also spoken in the chief villages and fishing-communities. In the more secluded farming-districts among the highlands the Gaelic tongue is more generally used, and the tourist may sometimes find whole families, not one of whom can speak English. In the villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, and especially on the North Shore, the French language is in common use, and English is nearly unknown. The relation of this language to the polite French speech of the present day is not clearly understood, and it is frequently stigmatized by Americans as ''an imintelligible patois" This state- ment is erroneous. The Canadian French has borrowed from the Eng- lish tongue a few nautical and political terms, and has formed for itself wcids describing the peculiar phenomena and conditions of nature in the new homes of the people. The ludians have also contributed numerous terms, descriptive of the animals and their habits, and the operations of forest-life. But the interpolated words are of rare occurrence, and the language is as intelligible as when brought from the North of France, two centuries ago. It is far closer in its resemblance to the Parisian speech than are the dialects of one fourth of the departments of France. Trav- ellers and immigrants from Old France find no difficulty in conversing with the Lower-Canadians, and the aristocracy of Quebec speak as pore an idiom as is used in the Faubourg St. Germain. 8 INTRODUCTION. ' This language has an extensive and interesting literature, whicli in- cludes science, theology, history, romance, and poetry. It has also numerous newspapers and magazines, and is kept from adulteration by the vigilance of several colleges and a powerful university. It is used, co-ordinately with the English language, in the records and journals of the Dominion and Provincial Parliaments, and speeches and pleadings in French are allowable before the Parliaments and courts of Canada. Thus much to prove the substantial identity of the Lower-Canadian and French languages. The tourist who wishes to ramble through the an- cient French-Canadian districts will, therefore, get on very well if he ha^ travelled much in Old France. But if the language is unknown to him, he will be subjected to many inconveniences and hardships. Yin. Climate and Dress. The more northerly situation of the Maritime Provinces and their vicin- ity, on so many sides, to the sea, render the climate even more severe and uncertain than that of New England. The extremes of heat and cold are much farther apart than in the corresponding latitudes of Europe, and, as Marmier expresses it, this region ''combines the torrid climate of southern regiouiik with the severity of an hyperborean winter." During the brief but lovely summer the atmosphere is clear and balmy, and vegetation flourishes amain. The winters are long and severe, but ex- ercise no evil effect on the people, nor restrain the merry games of the youths. Ever since Knowles sent to England his celebrated dictum that the climate of Nova Scotia consisted of " nine months of winter and three months of fog," the people of Britain and America have had highly ex- aggerated ideas of the severity of the seasons in the Provinces. These statements are not borne out by the facts ; and, though Nova Scotia and New Brunswick have not the mild skies of Virginia, their coldest weather is surpassed by the winters of the Northwestern States. The meteorological tables and the physical condition of the people prove that the climate, though severe, is healthy and invigorating. The timn h^s gone by for describing these Provinces as a gloomy land of frozen Hyper- boreans, and for decrying them with pessimistic pen. The worst annoyance experienced by tourists is the prevalence of dense fogs, which sometimes sweep in suddenly from the sea and brood over the cities. In order to encounter such unwelcome visitations, and also to be prepared against fresh breezes on the open sea, travellers should be pro- vided with heavy shawls or overcoats, and woollen imderclothiug should be kept at hand. IX. Fishing. "Anglers in the United States who desire to fish a salmon-river in the Dominion of Canada should club together and apply for the fluvial parts -m t» INTRODUCTION. 9 [dense erthe Itobe pro- lould the >art8 <» of riven. .... The government leases the rivers for a term of nine years, and rivers unlet on the first day of each year are advertised by the gov- emment to be let to the highest bidders. The places of residence of those tendering for fishini^s are not considered in letting a river ; and if a gen- tleman from the Stites overbids a Canadian, the river will be declared as his. Rivers are therefore hired by Europeans as well as by Canadians and citizens of the States Rivers are either let in whole or parts, each part permitting the use of a given number of rods, generally four. Parties who desire to lease a CanadiaAi river should address a letter to the Minister of Marine and Fisheries, at Ottawa, stating how mauy rods they have, and the district which they prefer to fish. He will forward them a list of the leasable rivers, and a note of information, apon which they should get some Canadian to make the tender for them. The leases of fluvial parts of rivers vary from two to six hundred dollars a year for from three to eight rods^ and the price for guides or gaffers is a dollar a day." (This subject is fully discussed in Scott's " Fishing in American Waters.") "The Game Fish of the Northern States and British Provinces," by Robert B. Roosevelt (published by Carleton, of New York, in 1865), contains an account of the salmon and sea-trout fishing of Canada and New Brunswick. The pursuit of sea-trout on the Lower St. Lawrence and Laval is described in pages 50-88 and 315-321; the Labrador rivers, pages 107-111 ; the Miramichi and Nepisiguit Rivers, pages 111 - 145 ; the Schoodic Lakes, pages 145-147. " Fishing in American Waters," by Genio C. Scott (published by Har- per and Brothers, 1869), contains practical directions to sportsmen, and graphic descriptions of fishing in the rivers of New Brunswick and Lower Quebec. " Frank Forester's Fish and Fishing of the United States and British Provinces of North America," by H. W. Herbert (New York, 1^50), is to a large extent technical and scientific, and contains but a few incidental allusions to the provincial fisheries. " The Fishing Tourist," by Charics Hallock (published by Harper and Brothers, 1873), contains about 100 pages of pleasant descriptions relat- ing to the Schoodic Lakes, the best trout and salmon streams of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, the Bay of C!haleur, the Sague- nay and Lower St Lawrence, Anticosti, and Labrador. IX. Hisoellancioai Notei. The times of departure of the provincial steamships are liable to change every season. The tourist can find full particulars of the days of sailing, etc., on arriving at St. John, from the local and the Halifax newspa- pers. The names of the agents of these lines have also been given here- in 10 INTRODUCTION. inafter, and fnrUier infomuitioa may be obtained by writing to their addresses. The custom-house formalities at the national frontiers depend less npon the actual laws than upon the men who execute th^JL The examination of baggage is usually conducted in a lenient manner, but trunks and packages are sometimes detained on account of the presence of too many Canadian goods. It^is politic, as well as gentlemanly, for the tourist to afford the officers every facility for the inspection of his baggage. Travellers are advised to carefully inspect the prices of goods offered them by shop-keepers, since the lavish and unquestioning extravagance of American tourists has somewhat influenced the tone of commercial morality. The people of the Provinces are generally courteous, and are willing to answer any civilly put questions. The inhabitants of the more remote districts are distinguished for their hospitality, and are kindly disposed and honest M — t^j 1 I i i m their ' upon Ation I and many istto * Send. gance ercial ingto emote posed ROUTES FROM BOSTON TO THE MARiriME PROVINCES. 1. By Railway. Tiie Eastern and Maine Central R. R. Lines form the nsnal mode of ap- proach by land. Their train« leave the terminal station on Causeway St, Boston, and ran throngh to Bangor, withont change of cars. Pullman cars are attached to tlie through trains, and tickets are sold to nearly all points in the Eastern Provinces. At Bangor passengers change to the cars of the European & North American R. R., which runs E. through the great forests of Maine and New Brunswick to the city of St John. Between Boston and Portland this route traverses a peculiarly interesting country, with frequent glimpses of the sea; but the country between Bangor and St. John is almost devoid of attractions. The Boston f the Algoo- ere powerfbl [ilicetes were id the inland They were had a simple le of qaaint (or Acadia), ^ of France, in ephemeral t. John River isay. Oliver !Ountry; bnt rarof 1689- >nndary was leaAtime the ad been set* iers invaded d. the line of 756 a naval t St. John; jican troops. lies. during the itry by the insands of |the adjoin- Province, the capi- Iritain now len. In boundary troops on |the Trent enter the became I in 1840, ■MBta Jl.t. m,DtftUrim. • * • . DC*. • • • A*. . At. d.U. At A% ■MM - ST. JOHN. JtoMtel 15 1 St Jolm. ArrlT«l from the Sea* — Soon after panring Negro Head, tb« stMincr mns fa by Partridge Isumd, the round and rocky guard of the harbor of St. John. Its precipitous sidM &re seamed with deep clefts and narrow chasms, and on tiM upland are Jeen the Qtiarantine Hospital, the buildings of the steam fog-horn and the light- house, and the ruins of a cliff battery. On the I. is the bold headland of Negrotovm Point, crownec*! by dilapidtited earthworks. The course now leads in by the Beacon- light (I. side), with the Martelib Tower on Oarleton Heights, and the high-placed St. Jnde's Church on the 1. In front are the gieen slopes and barracks of the Mili- tary Orounds, beyond which are the populous hills of St. John. Hotels. — The Hotel DuSerin, at the comer of Charlotte St. and King Square, Is the best (9 2.50 a day). The New Victoria is a good hotel, on Princess St., near Germain St. The Park Hotel is on the N. fi. side of King's Square, and several smaller houses of varying grades ara in the same vicinity. The Waverley la oo ^" ^ St., and is an old-fashtonc) British public-house. ' musements. — Theatrical performances and other entertainments are flre- '• 'fcly gi^en at the Academyof Music, on Qermain St, near Duke St. The Academy can accommodate 2,000 people. Lectures and concerts are given in the hail of the Mechanics- Institute, near the head of Germain St. Beadlnc-Rooms. — The Young Men's Christian Association, on Charlotte St., near King Square ; open flrom 9 a. h. until 10 p. m. The Mechanics' Institate, near the head of Qermain St., has an extensive variety of British papers on die. Oarrtases. — For a course within the city, dOe. for one passenger, lOe. for eaeh additional one. For each half-hour, 60c. If the river is crossed the passenger pays the toll, which is, for a double carriage, 15c. each way by ferry, 20c. by the bridge. Omnibuses run flrom Market Square through Dock and Mill Sts., to the ter- minus of the river steamboat-lines, at Indiantown. Ballvrays. — The St. John and Maine Railway runs W. to Bangor in 206 M., connecting there with the Maine Central and Eastern lines for Boston, 449 M. flrom St. John. The same road also has a branch to Fredericton. The Intercolonial Railway runs B. to Shediac, Truro, and Halifax (276 M.), and to Quebec. Steamships. — The Temperley and other lines run steamships occiiilonally between St. John and Liverpool, or London. The International Steamshfp Com- pany despatch their sea-worthy vessels flrom St. John for Boston, touching at Rast- port and Portland, and connecting with steamers for St. Andrews, St. Stephen, Calais, and Grand Manan. In Jan. and Feb. they leave St John on Thursdays ; from March to July, and from Sept. 22 to Jan., they leave on Mondays and Thurs- days ; and July, Aug., and early Sept., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. 8ai^ ing time, 8 A.M. Faro to Boston, $5.50. Time, St. John to Eastport, 4 hrs. ; to Portland, lA hrs.; to Boston, 27 hrs. The Annapolis steamers cross the Bay of Fundy to Digby and Annapolis several times weekly, at 8 a.m., connecting at An- napolis with the railway for Halifax. During some seasons, steamers run flrom St. John to Yarmouth, to the Basin of Minaa (Parrsboro' and Windsor), and to St. Andrews, and St. Stephen. The railway to St. Stephen is finished. St. John River Lines.— -Th» steamers of the Union Line leave Indiantown dally at 9 A. M , for Fredericton and the intermediate landings Three times a week thero is a night-boat, louring «t 6 P. m., for Fredericton and the intermediate land- ings. The Fawn leaves Indiantown on Wednesday and Saturday, at 8 A.M., for G^etown and Grand Lake. Boats to the Washademoak Lake are unoertala The Oarleton fbrry-steamers leave tho foot of Princess St. every 15 minutes antU 0.80 P M. Fare, 8o. ; for one-horse carriages, o. ; for two>honw earitafes, 15 e. 16 Haute J. ST. JOHN. St. John, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick and the commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occupies a commanding position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation for the purposes of commerce it has been termed "the Liverpool of Canada, " and claims the proud position of the fourth port of the British Empire, next after London, Liverpool, and Glasgow. The city has 26,127 inhabitants (census of 1881), and the contiguous city of Portland has 15,227 more. The ridge upon which it is built is composed of solid rock, through which streets have been cut at great expense ; and the plan of the streets is regular, including a succession of rectangular squares. The general appearance of the city is, however, somewhat uneven and dingy ^ owing to the difference in the size of the buildings and to the absence of paint. The harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy and the sweeping current ot the St. John River. It is usually well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves tnd mills. The hill-country in the vicinity is barren but picturesque, and affords a variety of pleasing marine views. The fire department has 3 8team>engiites, but is seldom called into service. There are 41 churches in St. John and Portland, of which the Church of England claims prece- dence in poin^ of numbers. There are 4 banks, and 4 daily and several w«ekly papers. Kintji Street is the main business street of the city, and runs from the harbor across the peninsula to Courtenay Bay. All the principal shops are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince William St.^ which intersects it near the water. At the foot of the street is the Market Slipy into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most part, left to hold themselves up on the muddy flats. At this point landed the weary and self-exiled American Loyalists, in 1788, and founded the city of St. John. The rather dreary breadth of King St. is occupied in its lower part by wagoners and unemployed workmen. From this point the street ascends a steep hill, passing the chief retail shops, and several banks and hotels, with numerous fine buildings on the rebuilt district. King Square is an open space of about 3 acres in area, studded with trees, and adorned in the centre with a fountain. Before the great fire, its entrance was adorned with a pretentious triumphal arch, erected in honor of Prince Arthur's visit, and afterwards utilized for sustaining the fire-alarm hell. The City Market House is on the E., and exhibits the products of this region on well-arranged stalls. A few steps N. W. of the Square (on Charlotte St. ) is tl;« handsome building of the Young Men's Christian Association, containing a large hall, gymnasium, parlors, and class-rooms. The library and reading-room are open daily (e-xcept Sunday) from A. m. to 10 P. M., and strangers are welcomed. The building cost 988,000, and ST. JOHN. BouieL 17 was dedicated in 1872, bnt subsequently gave signs of instability, and has since been strengthened at considerable expense. The County Court House and Jail are at the S. R comer of King Square, and are antiquated and homely stone buildings. To the E. is the Old Burying-Oround^ con- taining the graves of the pioneers of the province, with epitaphs in many cases quaint and interesting. Trinity Church extends from Germain St. to Charlotte St., near Prin- cess St., and is the finest church-building in the Maritime Provinces, being massively constructed of gray stone, with rambling connections, and a very striking interior. Occupying a conspicuous position near the crest of the hill, it is visible for a great distance. The first church on this site was built in 1788, and contained mural tablets and the Royal Arms from Trinity Church, New York, brought here by the Loyalists in 1783. This venerable building was destroyed in the great fire of 1877. Not far from Trinity is the Masonic Temple, a large and coitly new edifice of brick. The publishing house of the McMillans is on a;i adjacent street, with ita printing-office and book-store. By ascending the next street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached^ — a carelessly kept park surrounded with dwelling-houses. A shoii; dis- tance to the E., on St. James St., is the Wiggins Male Orphan Institu- tion, a new building in Gothic architecture, of red and gray sandstone. It is the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in the Prov- ince, and cost over $ 100,000, but is only adequate to the accommodation of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. A short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military OronndB, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, with a drill-shed which will hold 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were formerly occupied by large detachments from the British army, whose officers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the mili- tary bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and some of the largest shops. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton ferry is seen to the r. The * Post-Offioe is an elegant building of gray ;::andstone. at the comer of Princess St. ; opposite which is the new City Hallf a handsome stone building. The Savings Bank, the Bank of New Brunswick, and other institutions, are luxuriously domiciled in this vi- cinity. The great fire of 1877, which destroyed several millions' worth of property in St. John, swept this district clean, and many elegant new buildings have since arisen. The * Custom House is of creamy Dorches- ter sandstone, costing $250,000, with iron roofs and fire-proof floors, and two tall towers for the time-ball, the shipping signals, and the storm- dnun. It contains several of the provincio-national offices, and a storm- •ignal station which receives warnings from "' Old Probabilities " at Wash- 18 MouUl. ST. JOHN. M ' ington. The street ends at ReecTt Painty the headquarters of several lines of coasting-steamers, whence may be seen the Breakwater, W. of the Military Grounds. At the N. end of Germain St. is the old Stone Church, a sanctnary of the Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presby- terian); and in the same vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Me- chanics' IntiittUej which has a large hall, and is the domicile of one of the city schools. The reading-room is supplied with Canadian and British newspapers, and the library contains about 7,000 volumes (open from 2^ to 6 o'clock). From this point roads descend to the water-side and to the railway station in the Valley. The Roman Catholic * Cathedral is situated on Waterloo St., and is the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sand- stone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful stone spire. The interior Ss in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich. The chancel and transept windows are large and of fine design ; a rose window is placed over the organ-lofl; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, Ambrose, Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, Francis, John, Luke, Augustine, and Gregory. The building is 200 ft. long, and 110 ft. wide at the transepts. The Bishop's Palace is the fine sandstone building towards Clifi* St., beyond which is the extensive building of the Orphan Asylum, fronting on Cliff St. On the other sid^ of the Cathedral is the plain brick building of the Nunnery. The visitor should notice, over the Cathedral portal adjacent to the Nunnery, the great marble bas-relief of the Last Supper (after Leonardo Da Vinci's painting at Milan). From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge, at the head of Courtenay Bay. By ascending Clifi" St. for a short distance, a point may be reached from which are seen the Valley, with its churches and streets, and the embowered villas on Portland Heights, over which Reed's Castle is prominent. The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll which overlooks the Marsh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St. It consists of a large brick building with one wing, and accommodates 80 patients. The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1866 at a cost of $ 64,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is built is the broad Marsh, covered with houses, and extending on the r. to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in remote ages the St. John River flowed down this valley from the Kenne- becasis to the sea, until 'finally the present channel through the Narrows was opened by some oonvulsion of nature. i 8 A i \ ST. JOHN. Hhat the vtotor gave her her own terms. These 20 Jlouui, ST. jonx tanns, however, mn ihamefally rlolated, and the garrison wu masnexed hefbre hra flice. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. La Tour came back to St. John some years later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he efl^tually recaptured his old domain by marrving the widow of the conqueror (1668). D'Aulnay died ir 1650, having spent 800,000 livres in Acadia, and built 6 fortresses, 2 seminaries, and several churches. He had several sons, all of whom entered the French army, and were slain in the service. In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. John harbor, between the French firigate Union and two English vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing the Chevalier de VUlebon, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannon- ade, the Union hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1^. while the Chevalier de Yillebon governed Acadia from the upper St. John and hurled de- structive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts sent three men-of-war to blockade the mouth of the river and cut on his supplies. They were soon attacked by D^Iberville's French fiigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the Neto- port, 24, was unable to with8tan(# the heavy fire of the Profond, and soon lay dis- masted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauled the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured the Profond, with M. de Tillebon, 4.he Governor -)f Acadia, on bm rafts or floats on these ponds ; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affonls a favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information may be obtained. The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an in- walled tract of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenay Bay. The Poor Home is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as Mispeck, traversing a diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John. 4 M. N. of the city is the estate of the Highland Park Company, an asso- ciation of citizens who have united for the purpose of securing rural homes in a beautiful and picturesque region. There are three lakes on the tract (which includes 600 acres), the chief of which is Howe's Lake, a small bat pretty forest-pond. The * Suspension Bridge is about 1^ M. from King Square, and most of the distance may be traversed by omnibuses, passing through the city of Portland and under Fort Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters of the St. John River are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 ft. above low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and whirls and render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood-tide, and for a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rails. The St. John River is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a vast extent of country. Tet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft. high hemming it in on either side. The stream rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is farther disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22 - 26 24 RouU t. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. ft. , and nufi up the riTer with inch force m to overflpw the fklls and produee lerel water at flood-tide. The bridge wa* built in 1862 by an American engineer, and cost • 80,000. It is 640 ft. long and containa 670 M. of wire, supported on 4 slender but solid towers. ^ Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shore, is the Provincial Lunatic Asylum^ an extensive brick building with long wings, situated in pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation renders it a prominent object in approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected in 1848, and accommodates 200 patients. From this vicinity, or from the bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and pic- turesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to the land- scape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbor- defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored by the British War Office. Many of these works may be seen along the shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only Us coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub« officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old guns still in position. The * view from this point is broad and beautiful, including St. John, with the spires of Trinity and the Cathedral most prominent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its pretty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, ex- tending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shores of Nova Scotia (the North Mt.), with the deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, called the Digby Gut. The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite a long sojourn. On the hill near the Martello Tower is the tall and grace- ful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in which is the fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church. The Fern Ledges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Ola Red Sandstone epoch, and are covered with sea-weed and limpets. On clearing away the weeds and breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cryptogamous plants are found. The Mahogany ^ Boad affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city is the Four-Mile House^ a favorite objective point for drives. The road is often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 6 M. long, and situated about 7 M. from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. * Mahogany, a popular adaptation of tlie Indian word McmawagoaUh, applied to tha aeigbboiiiig bay. CAMPOBELLO. RouU S. 25 th a pen- ty is id is and lum- the ; Slusqaash, 9; Li< -:kcuter, 16; George, 47 ; Bonny vUTer, 68 ; 8. St John to Saftport and St Stephen. — FaMamaqooddy Bay. The eommodious Tessels of the Tnternatiwnal Steamahip Company leave theBeed"! Point Wharf, at St. John, every Monday. Wednesday, and Friday, at 8 a. m., and reach Eaetport (6'J M. diiitant) a little alter noon. A connection i8 made there with a smaller steamboat, which ascenda PatBamaquoddy Bay and the St. Croix lliver to St. Andrews and St Stephen. The Grand Southern Bailway runs from St. John to St. Stephen, 80 M. W., and it is hoped that it may be extended down through Maine to Ban- gor, crossing the frontier at Calais, and running around throiigh the coast counties. It is not yet perfect in route and equipment, and is content with running in a very leisurely way down this picturesque and thinly settled coast. The localities which it approaches are more particularly described on pages 31, 32, 33, 34, and 35 of this book. Stations. — St. John to Spruce Lake, 7 M. Lepreauz, 24; New River, 29; Fennfield, 86; St. Dyer's, 62 ; Oak Bay, 67 ; St. Stephen, 82. After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. int.: the Bay of Fur; ij, and soon passes Split Bock, and stretches across to roii t Lepreau. Ihe peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on the N., are spoken of in Route 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner : " A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with sctint foliage, a light- house, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests, — this was "New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable circumstances." After passing the iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where the New England was wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West IsleSj whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either drifting over schools of fish, or, with th*^'r •? hite and red sails stretched, pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird effect is 'caused by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense white clouds. Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters the Eastern Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r. is Deer Ide, a rugged island, 7 M. long by 3 M. wide, with a poor soil and no good harbors. There are about 1,600 inhabitants on this island, and it is surrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain an elevation of 800 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- tiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the Bay of Fundy, on the other. 2 • 26 Route S. EASTPORT. On the other side are the grandly picturesque headlands of Campohello, tlie island which has recently become so well known as an American sum- mer-resort, particularly affected by the best people of Boston and Cam- bridge. A more thorough account of this locality is found on page 30 a, hereinafter. . . The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Cainpo« bello Company, and vraa located at Harbor dc Lute, on Gampobcllo Island It was named Warrington, but the Welclipool settlement has long since Eur|iasfed it. The Isloud waB for some time the property of Capt. Owen, of the Royal Navy, to whom the residents paid tenants' dues. At cert&in stages of the tide, liof tport can only be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. Warner in- dulges in the following pleasantry : '* The possession by the British of the inland of Campobello is an insufferable menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowl- edge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Campobello. It entirely shuts up and commands our* harbor, — one of our chief Eastern har- bors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our own harbor, except in faTorable circumstances of the tide, without begging the courtesy of a passage through British waters. Why is England permitted to stretch along down our coast in this straggling: and inquieitivc manner ? She might almost as well own Long Island. It was impossible to prevent our checks mantling with Bhame as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citizens, landlocked by alien soil in our own harbor We ought to have war, if war is necessary to pos- sess Campobello and Deer Islands, or else we ought to give the British Eastport. I am not sure but the latter would be the better course." ,, . > Eastport {*Pa8samaquoddy House, $2.&0 a day; Island House, $2) is an American bordcr'-town, on the coast of Maine, and has 4,200 inhabi- tants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope of a hill at the E. end of Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and is engaged in the fisheries and the coasting-trade. Over the village arc the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, a garrisoned post of the United States, commanding the harbor with its artillery. Eastport is much visited in summer for the sake of the salt- water fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, and has sev- eral reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the mainland by a bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport is the most convenient point from which to reach Campobello, Grand lilannn (see Route 4), and the adjacent islands. A steam-ferry runs hence in 8 M. to Lubeo {Lube.. House, Cohscooh Hotel), a picturesque marine village to- wards Quoduy Head, with advantages for summer residents. This pleasant little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec is 1 M. farther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost town of the United States. The purple cliffs of Grand Manan are seen from Quoddy Head. EASTPORT. JlotUe 8. 27 >l ri In 1684 the PMsuaaqtioddy fatlands were granted by the Khig of France to Jean Barreau de St. Aubin. In the summer of 1704 the few French settlers about Pas8a» maquoddy Bay were plundered by an expedition under Col. Church, consisting of 600 Massachusetts soldiers, escorted by the men-of-war Jersey^ 48. and Gosport, S2. They ascended the St. Croix as for as the head of navigation, then returned and crossed the bay to ravage the Minas settlements. Tbey visited Moose Island and the adjacent main, and carried off all the settlers as prisoners. Eighteen years later a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among these islands, but was retaken by its crew when a fidr wind arose. In 1744 Massachusetts declared war against the Indians on this bay and on the St. John Uiver ; and in 1760 the tribes sued for Gace, sending hostages to Boston. In 1734 Gov. Belcher (of Mass.) visited the y, and in 1760 and 1762 its shores and islands were regularly surveyed. During the War of the Revolution the Passamaquoddy Indians were loyal to the United States, and declined all offers from the British agents. The boundary question began to assume great importance after the close of the war. The treaty stipulated that the St. Croix River should form the frontier ; but Massachusetts, supported by the Indians, claimed that the Mugaguadavic was the true St Croix ; while Great Britain asserted and proved that the outlet of the Schoodic Lakes was the veritable river. The Islands were surrendered to Britain ; but Moose, Dudley, and Frederick Islands were restored to the United States in 1818. Eastport was founded about 1784, by fishermen from the coast of Essex County, Mass., who settled here on account of the facilities for catching and curing fish. In 1808 the walls of Fort Sullivan were raised, and a detachment of tmops was sta* tio ;!^d ther.'i. In 1813 the valuable British vessel, the Eliza Ann, was captured by the privateer Timothy Pickering and sent into Eastport. She was followed by H. M. S. Martin, whose commander demanded her surrender, on itain of destroying the town. The citizens refused to release the prize, apd the Martin opened fire on Eastport, but was soon driven away by the guns of the fort. July 11, 1814, a Brit- ish fleet appeared off the town, and informed the commander that if he did not haul down his flag within five minutes they would bombard the town. The flag came down, the garrison laid down their arms, and the hostile fleet, headed by the Rami- lies, 74, anchored off the town. British martial law was enforced here for the next four years, after which the place was restored to the United States. The river-steamboat, in ascending the bay, runs for some distance between Deer Isle and Moose Island. At about 5 M. from Eastport, Pleasant Point (known to the Indians as Sybaik) is seen on the 1. Here is the chief settlement of the Passamaquoddy Indians, who were driven from the peninsula of St. Andrews nearly a century ago, and received their present domain from the American government. They are about 400 in number, and draw an annuity and a school-fund from the Republic. They are the remnant of the ancient Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation, and they cling tenaciously to the faith delivered unto them of old by the Jesuits. Their church is dedicated to St. Anne, and is served by Indian deacons ; and the pictu- resque cemetery ber-mills. About two centuries ago a French war-vessel was driven into this harbor and destroyed by a British cruiser. From Split Bock the course is W. \ S. for llj M. to Point Lepreau, passing the openings of Chance Harbor and Dipper Harbor, in which are obscure marine hamlets. In the latter, many years ago, the frigate Plumper was wrecked, with a large amount of specie on board. The harbor is now visited mostly by lobster-fishers. Point Lepreau is a bold and tide-swept promontory, on -which are two fixed lights, visible for 18 and 20 M. at sea. The traTeller will doubtless be amazed at the rudeness and sterility of these frown- ing shores. " Two very different itupresuioas in regard to the Province of New Brunswick will be produced on the mind of the stranger, according as he contents himself with visiting the towns and inspecting the lands which lie along the sea- board, or ascends its rivers, or penetrates by its numerous roads into the interior of its more central and northern counties. In the former case he will feel like the traveller who enters Sweden by the harbors of Stockholm and Gottenburg, or who sails among the rocks on the western coast of Norway. The naked cliSs or shelving shores of granite or other hardened rocks, and the unvarying pine forests, awaken in his mind ideas of hopeless desolation, and poverty d barrenness appear neces- sarily to dwell within the iron-bound shores But on the other hand, if the stranger penetrate beyond the Atlantic shores of the Province and travel through the interior, he will be struck by the number and beauty of its rivers, by the fertility of its river islands and intervales, and by the great extent and excellent condition of its roads." (Prop. J. F. W. Johnston, P. R. S.) From Point Lepreau the course is laid nearly \V. for 16J M. to Bliss Island, crossing the bight of Mace's Bay, a wide and shallow estuary in which are two fishing-hamlets. The Saturday steamer stops on this reach at Beaver Harbor, a place of 150 inhabitants. S. of this harbor, and seen on the 1. of the course, are the five black and dangerous islets called the Wolves, much dreaded by navigators. A vessel of the International Steam- ship Company was wrecked here two or three years ago. One of the Wolves bears a revolving light, 111 ft. high, and visible for 16 M. The steamer now rounds Bliss Island (which has a fixed red light), and to the N. is seen the entrance to VEtang Harbor, a deep and picturesqua inlet which is well sheltered by islands, the largest of which is called Cai- tiff. A few miles S. \V. are seen the rolling hills of Campobello; Deer Island is nearer, on the W. ; and the bay is studded with weird-looking hummocky islands, — the Nubble, White, and .Spruce Islands, the grim trap-rock mamelon of White Horse, and many other nameless rocks. They are known as the West Isles, and most of them are inhabited by hard-working fishermen. 32 RouU 5. ST. 0£ORGE. I' 8t. George (three inns), a village of 1,200 inhabitants devoted to the lumber and granite trades, is at the head of the tide, 4 M. from the ship- harbor below, and stands on both sides of the Magaguadavic, at the Lower Falls, where the river is compressed into a chasm 30 ft. wide, and falls about 50 ft. These falls in several steps furnish a water-power un- surpassed in Canada, and along the sides of the gorge, clinging to the rocks like eagles' nests, are several mills in which lumber and granite are manufactured. Geologists have found in this vicinity marked evidences of the action of icebergs and glaciers. The gorge through which the waters rush with an almost Niagara roar has been caused by some convulsion of nature, which in its mighty throes rent the cliffs asunder, giving vent to what must have been a great lake above. This district has become cele- brated for its production of a fine granitf of a rose-red color which receives a high polish, and is extensively used lor ornamental columns and monu- ments. It is pronounced by competent judges to be superior to the Scotch granite of Peterhead (popularly called "Aberdeen Granite"), and is beautifully tinted. The construction of the Grand Southern Railway affords improved facilities for visiting this interesting locality. " The village, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated wilderness to the N., render this part of the country peculiarly picturesque ; indeed, the neighborhood of St. George, the Diftdeguash, Chamcook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller with some of the finest scenery in America." (Dr. Gesner.) Lake Utopia is picturesquely bituated in a deep and sheltered depression, along whose slopes ledges of red granite crop out. It is about 1 M. from St. George, and 6 M. long, and connects with the Magaguadavic River 3 M. above the village, by a natural canal 1 M. long, which is well bordered by magnificent forest trees, and furnishes a beautiful resort for boating parties, sportsmen, and anglers en route to the Lake. The earliest pioneers found the remains of au ancient and mysterious temple, all traces of which 'have now passed away. Here also was found a slab of red granite, bearing a large bas-relief of a human head, in style re- sembling an Egyptian sculpture, and having a likeness to Washington. This re- markable medallion has been placed in the Natural History Museum at St. John. For nearly 40 years the Indians and lumbermen near the lake have told marvellous stories of a marine prodigy called " the Monster of Utopia," which dwells in this fidr forest-loch. His last appearance was in 1867, when several persons about the shores claimed to have seen furious disturbances of the waters, and to have caught momentary glimpses of an animal 10 ft. thick and 80 ft. long. The lake abounds in silvery-gray trout, and its tributary streams contain many brook-trout and smelt. Among the hills along the valley of the Magaguadavic River are the favorite haunts of large numbers of Virginian deer. Moose were formerly abundant in this region, and it is but a few years since over 400 were killed in one season, for the sake of their hides. This noble game animal has been nearly exterminated by the merciless set* tiers, and will soon become extinct in this district. The Magasuadavic Kiver (an Indian name meaning "The River of the Hills ") rises in a chain of lakes over 80 M. N. W., within a short portage of the Sheogomoc River, a tributary of the upper St. John. Traversing the great Lake of Magaguadavic it descends through an uninhabited and barren highland region, tersely described by an early pioneer as " a scraggly hole." Much of its lower valley is a wide intervale, which is supposed to have been an ancient lake-bottom. The river is followed closely by a rugged road, which leads to the remote Harvey and Magaguadavic settlements. After leaving the port of St. George, the steamer runs S. W. across Passamaquoddy Bay, with the West Isles and the heights of Deer Island on the S., and other bold hummocks on either side. On the N. are the ST. ANDREWS. Route 6. 33 estuaries of the Digdegnash and Bocabec Rivers, and the massive ridge of the Chamcook Mt. St. Andrews {Central Exchange, $1.50 a day), the capital of Charlotte County, is finely situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the St. Croix River, which is here 2 M. wide. It has about 1,800 inhabitants, and a few quiet old streets, surrounded by a broad belt of farms. The town was founded about a century ago, and soon acquired considerable commercial importance, and had large fleets in its harbor, loading with timber for Great Britain and the West Indies. This era of prosperity was ended by the rise of the town of St. Stephen and by the operation of the Reciprocity Treaty, and for many years St. Andrews has been retrograding, until now the wharves are deserted and dilapidated, and the houses seem antiquated and neglected. It has recently attracted summer visitors, on account of the pleasant scenery and the facilities for boating, fishing, and excur- sions. St Andrews was once strongly fortified by the British Government, and some remains of these works still exist. It is hoped that the Canadian Pacific Railway, which is now building across Maine, from Lake Megan- tic by Moosehead, will make its chief winter-port here. Fogs are very rare; summer nights are cool; and the environs are lovely. The town is laid out in square blocks, and the streets are wide and kept in good order. The roads are excellent for driving, and from many points give picturesque views. The public buildings are the court-house, jail, rec- ord office, and marine hospital ; and there are a number of neat private residences, including that of Sir Leonard Tilley, K. C. B., Finance Min- ister of the Dominion. Of churches it has Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist, Roman Catholic, and Church of England. The "Argyll," a large structure, with rooms for 200 guests, was opened in 1881 as a summer-hotel. It is pleasantly located on elevated ground, and con- venient to the beaches, where the facilities for sea-bathing are unrivalled. Trains of the New Brunswick Railway run to and firom St. Andrews, connecting with trains for Woodstock, Houlton, St. John, Bangor, Portland, and Boston. Steamboats run daily between St. Andrews, Calais, Eastport, and Campobello, connecting at Eastport with steamers for St. John, Qrand Manan, Portland, and Boston. The Chamoook Mt. is about 4 M. N. of St. Andrew, and its base is reached by a good road (visitors can also go by railway to the foot of the mountain). It is often ascended by parties for the sake of the view, which includes "the lovely Passamaquoddy Bay, with its little islands and outline recalling recollections of the Gulf of Naples as seen from the summit of Vesuvius, whilst the scenery toward the N. is hilly, with deep troughs containing natural tarns, where trout are plentiful." As the steamer swings out into the river, the little ship-building village of Bobbimton is seen, 09 the American shore. On the r. the bold bJofis of r^ 34 R(niU 5. ST. CROIX RIVER. Gbamcook Mt. are passed, and occasional fann-booses are seen along the shores. 6 - 6 M. alipve St. Andrews, the steamer passes on the £. side of Doaoet's Island, on which a lighthouse has been erected by the Ameri- can government. W. of the island is the village of Red Beach, with its plaster-mills, and oa the opposite shore is the farming settlement of Bay Shore. In the year 1604 Henri IV. of France granted • large part of America to Pierre da GuaKtf Sieur de Moats, and Governor of I'cjs. This tract extended from Phila- delphia to Quebec, and was named Acadie, which in said to be derived from a local Indian word. De Monts sailed from Havre in April, with a motley company of im- pressed vagabonds, gentlemen-adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clergymen, the latter of whom quarrelled all the way over. After exploring parts of Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy, the voyagers ascended the Passamnquoddy Bay and the river to St. Croix Isle, where it was determined to found a settlement. Bat- teries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the houses of De Monts and Champlain, workshops, magazines, the chapel, and the barracks of the owiss soldiery. But the winter soon set in with its intense cold, and the rav- ages of disease were added to the miseries of the colonists. 35 out of 79 men died of the scurvy during the winter; and when a supply-ship arrived from France, in June, the island was abandoned. " It is meet to tell you how hard the isle of Sainte Croix is to be found out to them that never were there ; for there are so many isles and great bays to go by (from St. John) before one be at it, that I wonder how one might ever pierce so far as to find it. There are three or four mountains imminent above the others, on the sides ; bui on the N. side, from whence the r-ver runneth down, there is but a sharp pointed one, above two leagues distant. Tlie woods of the main land are fair and admirable high, and well grown, as in like manner is the grass Now let us pre- pare and hoist sails. M. de Poutrincourt made the voyage into these parts, with some men of good sort, not to winter there, but as it were to seek out bis seat, and find out a land that might like him. Which he having done, had no need to sojourn there any longer." Late in the year, " the most urgent things being done, and hoary snowy father being come, that is to say. Winter, then they were forced to keep within doors, and to live every one at his own home. During vrhich time our men had three special discommodities in this island : want of wood (for that which nvas in the said isle was spent in buildings), lack of fresh water, and the continual watch made by night, fearing some surprise from the savages that had lodged them- selves at the foot of the said island, or some other enemy. For the malediction and rage of many Ghristiansijs such, that one must take heed of them much more than of infidels.'^ (Lescarbot's Nouvelle France.) In 1783 the riv^r St. Croix wa« designated as the E. boundary of Maine, but the Americans claimed that the true St. Cro''^ was the stream called the Magaguadavic. It then became important to find tru' of De Monts's settlement of 180 years pre- vious, as that would locate the true . oroix River. So, after long searching among the bushes and jungle, the boundai commissioners succeeded in finding remnants of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed the line. About 10 M. above St. Andrews the river deilects to the W., and to the N. is seen the deep and spacious * Oak Bay, surrounded by bold hills, and forming a beautiful and picturesque prospect. It is supposed that the French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of its waters at this point to a cross, — the upright arm being fonned by the river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is outlined by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of the bay is the populous farming-village of Oak Bay, with three churches. Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called Devil's Head (from one Duval, who formerly lived there), the course is laid to the N. W., in a narrow ST. STEPHEN. Route 6. 36 sen along the ;he E. side of )y the Araerl- tach^ with its ' ement of Bay ica to Pierre da led from Phila- wd from a local company of im- liolic clergymen, g parts of Nova [uoddy Bay and i>ttlement. Bat- \rere the houses I the barracks of )ld, and the rav- of 79 men died from France, in be found out to it bays to go by jver pierce so far he others, on the ere is but a sharp land Hre fair and , . Nowletuspre- these parts, with lout bis seat, and o need to sojourn being done, and ly were forced to : which time our (for that which ad the continual lad lodged them- malediction and luch more than channel, hetween sterile shores. 2-3 M. above is the antiquated marine hamlet called The Ledge (I. bank), most of whose inhabitants are depend- ent on the sea for tlieir living. 4 M. above this point the steamer reaches her dock at St. Stephen. St. Stephen (Queen Hotel) is an active and enterprising provincial town, situated at the head of navigation on the St. Croix River, opposite the American city of Calais. The population is about 5,000, with 6 churches, 1 newspaper, and 2 banks. The business of St. Stephen is mostly connected with the manufacture and shipment of lumber. The falls of the river at this point give a valuable water-power, which will probably be devoted to general manufacturing purposes after the lumber supply begins to fail. A covered bridge connects St. Stephen with Calail {The American House ; St. Croix Exchange), a small city of the State of Maine, with 6,000 inhabitants, 7 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 2 banks. Although under different flags, and separated by lines of customs-officers, St. Stephen and Calais form practically but one community, with identi- cal pursuits and interests. Their citizens ha^e always lived in perfect fraternity, and formed and kept an agreement by which they abstained from hostilities during the War of 1812. At that time the authorities also restrained the restless spirits from the back country from acts of violence across the borders. 2-3 M. above is another Canado-American town, with large lumber-mills at the falls, which is divided by the river into MlUtown-SL. Stephen and Mllltown-Calais. Travellers who cross the river either at Calais or Milltown will have their baggage looked into by the customs-officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends of the bridges. The New Brunswick & Canada Railway runs N. from St. Stephen to Houlton and Woodstock (see Route 6). Calais is connected with the Schoodio Lakes by railway, and with Eastport by stages. The U. S. Mail-stage runs daily to Bangor, 95 M. W. (fare, $ 7-50), passing through a wide tract of unoccupied wilderness. The steam* boat leaves Calais or St. Stephen daily in summer, and semi-weekly in winter, for Eastport, where it connects with the International steamships for Portland and Boston (see also Route 3, and Osgood's New Encfland). Fares, Calais to Portland, $4.50 ; to Boston, by water, $5.50 ; to Boston, by rail firom Portland, $ 7. The Schoodic Lakes. A railway runs 21 M. N. W. from Calais to Leicey^s Island (2 inns), in Princeton, whence the tourist may enter the lovely and picturesque Schoodic Lakes. The steamer Gipsty carries visitors 12 M. up the lake to Grand Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing-grounds in America. The trout in Lewey's Lake have been nearly exterminated by the voracious pike, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contain perch, pickerel, land-locked salmon, lake-trout, and fine speckled-trout. The Grand Lake Stream is 3-4 M. long, and connects the Grand and Big Lakes with its rapid waters, in which are found many of the famous sil- very salmon-trout. The urban parties who visit these forest-lakes usually [engage Indian guides to do the heavy work of portages and camp-build- 36 JUvue, 8CH00DIC LAKES. i log, and to gaide their conne firom lake to lake. Th ti&ccs of unpopulated wilderness; and after crossing the parish of New Maryland, the line enters Manners Sutton, passes the Cork Settle- ment, and stops at the Harvey Settlement, a rugged district occupied by families from the borders of England and Scotland. To the N. and K. W. are the Bear and Cranberry Lakes, affording good fishing. A road leads S. 7-8 M. from Harvey to the Oromocto Lake, a fine sheet of water nearly 10 M. long and 3-4 M. wide, where many large trout are found. The neighboring forests contain various kinds of game. Near the N. W. shore of the lake is the small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain^ " near the Harvey Settlement, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake (probably in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal measures, where they touch the slate." Magaguadavic station is at the foot of Magaguadavic Lake, which is about 8 M. long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its £!. shore is the low and bristling Magaguadavic Ridge; and a chain of smaller lakes lies to theN. The train now runs S. W. to Me Adam Jnnction (restaurant in the sta- tion), where it intersects the New Brunswick and Canada Railway (see Route 6). 6 M. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous wilderness, is St. Croix, on the river of the same name. After crossing the river the train enters the United States, and is visited by the customs-oflUcers at Yanoeboro' ( Chiputneticook House). This is the station whence the beau- tiful lakes of the upper Schoodic may be visited. The Chiputneticook Lakeg are about 45 M. in length, in a N. W. course, and are from >^ to 10 M. in width. Their navigation it) very intricate, by reason of the multitude of islets and islands, narrow passages, coves, and deep inlets, which diversity of land and water affords beautiful combinations of scenery. The islands are covered with cedar, hemlock, and birch trees ; and the bold highlands which shadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the Fcenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white granite, either seen through the transparent waters or hning the shore like massive masonry. " Uni- vwsal gloom and Etillness reign ever these lakes and the forests around them." , Beyond Vanceboro* the train passes through an almost unbroken wilder- ness for 55 M., during the last 16 M. following the course of the Matta- BT. JOHN RIVEa Route 8. 39 p the valley of WeUford isting, as the irendon Set- From Gas- Lake, 10-12 lit 5 M. long, en, the train m Junction a lumber-mills her side are he parish of Cork Settle- occupied by I and N. W. A. road leads eet of water t are found, ar the N. W. Id Mountain^ with a lake I of the coal ce, which is re is the low akes lies to it in the sta- ^ailway (see |ildemess, is le river the Is-officers at ;e the beau- W. course, by reason of linleta, which The islands jtlands which latures of the }, either seen inry. "Unl- Ithem.*' Iken wilder- tbe Matta- iraukeag Biver. The station of Mattawamkeag is at the confluence of the Mattawamkeag and Penobscot Rivers ; and the railway from thence follows the course of the latter stream, traversing a succession of thinly populated lumbering towns. 45 M. below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot is crossed, and the train reaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about 4,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in the lumber business. The traveller should notice here the immense and costly booms and mills, one of which is the largest in the world and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. On an island jast abore Oldtown is the home of the Tarratine IndJans, formerly the most powerful and warlike of the Northern tribes. They were at tint Well-di8« posed towards the colonists, but after a series of wrongs and insults they took up arms in 167S, and inflicted such terrible damage on the settlements that Maine be- came tributwry to them by the Peace of Gasco. After destroying the fortress of Pem- aquid to avenge an insult to their chief, St. Castin, they remained quiet for many years. The treaty of 1720 contains the substance of their present relations with the State. The declension of the tribe was marked for two centuries ; but it is now slowly increasing. The people own the islands in the Penobscot, and have a reve- nue of $ 6 - 7,000 from the State, which the men eke out by working on the lumber- rafts, and by hunting and fishing, while the women make baskets and other trifles for sale. The island-Tillage is without streets, and consists of many small houses built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons here, most of whom are half-breeds. Below Oldtown the river is seen to be filled with booms and rafts of timber, and lined with saw-mills. At Orono is the »State Agricultural College; and soon after passing Veazie the train enters the city of Bangor. For descriptions of Bangor, the Penobscot River, and the route to Bos- ton, see Osgood's New England. 8. St. John to Frederioton. — The St John Biver. The steamers David Weston and Star, of the Union Line, leave St. John (Indian- town) at 9 A. M. daily. See also Itoutes 9 and 10. These vessels are comfortably fitted up for passengers, in the manner of the smaller boats on the Hudson River. Pinner is served on board ; and Fredericton is usually reached late in the afternoon. On Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday there is a night-boat, leaving St. John at 6 P. H. ; and returning from Fredericton at 4 p. M., reaching St- John at 11 p. M. The scenery of the St. John River is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quiet- ness. The elements of the landscapes are simple ; the settlements are few and small, and at no time will the traA'oiler find nis attention violently drawn to any paJKsing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Belleisle Bay, and during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the scenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, by which it is pleasant to drift on a balmy summer-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. John by bestowing upon it too extravagant praise, thereby piaparing a disappoint- ment for such as believed their report. One calls it " the Rhine of America," and another prefers it to the Hudson. This is wide exaggeration ; but if the traveller would enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey through a pretty farming coun- try, abounding in mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. 1>l«)tance8. — (The steamhoat-landiiigd bear the names of their owners, and the following itinerary bears reference rather to the villages on the shores than to the stopping-places of the boats. ) St. John ; Brundage's Point, 10 M. ; Westfleld, 17 ; Qreenwich Hill, 19; Oak Point, 26; Long Reach, 26; Tennant's Cove (Belleisle Bay), 29; Wlckham, 82; Hampstead, ])6; Otnabog, 41;^ Oazetown, 60; Upper Gajotown, 68 ; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromooto, 76 ; Gla^er's, 81 ; Frederleton, 86. Fares. — St. John to Frederloton, f 1 I I i ■ 40 Jtouus. KENNEBECASIS BAY. This ifrer mm called Loosktook (Long Rirer) hj the Etchemin Indians, and Ouangoudie by the Micmacs. It is supposed to have been visited by De Monts, or other explorers at an early day, and in the commission of the year 1598 to the Lieut -General of Acadia it is called La Riviire de la Grande Bate. But no exam- ination was made of the upper waters until St. John's Day, 1604, when the French fleet under De Monts and Poutrincourt entered the great river. In honor of the saint on whose festival the exploration was begun, it was then entitled the St. John. After spending several weeks in ascending the stream and its connected waters, the discoverers sailed away to the south, bearing a good repoib of the chief river of Acadia. De Monts expected to find by this course a near route to Tadousac, on the Saguenay, and therefore sailed up as far as the depth of water would permit. " The extent of this river, the fish with which it was filled, the grapes growing on its banlLS, and the beauty of its scenery, were all objects of wonder and admiration." At a subsequent day the fierce struggles of the French seigneurs were waged on its shores, and the invading fleets of New England furrowed its tranquil waters. The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 460 M. iu length, being navigable for steamers of 1,000 tons for 90 M., for light-draught steamers 270 M. (with a break at the Grand Falls), and for canoes for nearly its entire extent. It takes its rise in the great Maine forest, near the sources of the Penobscot and the Ghaudiere ; and from the lake which heads its S. W. Branch the Indian voyageurs carry their canoes across the Mejamiette Portage and launch them in the Chaudi^re, on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. for oVer 150 M. through the Maine forest, it receives the Allagash, St. Francis, and other large streams ; and from the mouth of the St. Francis nearly to the Grand Falls, b distance of 75 M., it forms the frontier between the United States and Canada. It is the chief member in that great system of rivers and lakes which has won for New Brunswick the distinction of being " the most finely watered country in the world." At Madawaska the course changes from N. E to S. E., and the sparsely settled N. W. counties of the Province are traversed, with large tributaries coming in on either side. During the last 50 M. of its course it receives the waters of the great bas^ins of the Grand and Washademoak Lakes and the Belleisle and Kennebecasis Bays, which have a parallel direction to the N. £., and afford good ftcilities for inland navigation. The tributary streams are connected with those of the Gulf and of the Bay of Chaleur by short portages (which will be mentioned in connection with their points of departure). Immediately after leaving the dock at St. John a fine retrospect is given of the dark chasm below, over which is the light and graceful suspension-bridge. Running up by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a narrow gorge with high and abrupt banks, at whose bases are large lumber-mills. On the r. is Boards Head, a picturesque rocky promon- tory, in whose sides are quarries of limestone; 3-4 M. above Indiantown the broad expanse of Grand Bay is entered, and South Bay is seen open ing on the 1. rear. The Kennebeoasis Bay is now seen, opening to the N. E. This noble sheet of water is from 1 to 4 M. wide, and is navigable for large vessels for over 20 M. It receives the Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers, and contains several islands, the chief of which, Long Island, is 5 M. long, and is opposite the village of Rothesay (see page 22). The E. shore is fol- lowed for many miles by the track of the Intercolonial Railway. The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly emptied by two mouths, — through the Kennebecasis and the Marsh Valley, and through South Bay into Manawagonish Bay, — and that the breaking down of the present channel through the lofty hills W. of St. John is an event quite recent in geoloc^cal history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that tliis barrier of hills WM once unbit>ken and served to divert the stream. sfc'ik^- LONG REACH. Route 8. il On the banks of the placid Kennebecasis the ancient Mloiufl legends locate tli* home of the Great Boayer, " feared by beaats and men," whom Glooscap llnallj conquered and put to death. In this 'dcinity dwelt the two Oreat Brothers, Gloos- OA? and MAtsuNsis, of unknown origin and invincible power. Glooacap knew that his brother was Tulnerable only by the touch of a fern-root ; and he had told ICal- sunsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owl's feather would kill him. It came to pass that Madsunsis determined to kill his brother (whether tempted thus by Mik-o, the Squirrel, or by Quah-beet-e-sisi, the son of the Great Beaver , or by his own CTil am- bition) ; wherefore with his arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, and leproached Malsun- sis, but afterwards told him that a blow from the root of a piue would kill him. Then the traitorous man led his brother on a hunting excursion fax into the fbrest, and while he slept he smote him with a pine-root. But the cautiouii Glooscap arose unharmed, and drove Malsunsis forth into the forest ; then sat down by the brook- side and said to himself, " Naught but a flowering rush can kill me." Musquash, the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them to Blal- sunsls, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. Therefore did Mus-. quash say, "Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get tnee hence, thou with a tail like a file ; what need hast thou of pigeon's wings I '* and went on his way. Then the Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp of Glooscap, to whom he told what he had done. And by reason of these tidings, Glooscap arose and took a root of fern and sought Malsunsis in the wide and gloomy forest ; and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. " And Glooscap sang a song over him and lamented." Now, therefore, Glooscap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him three brothers seeking that he would give them great strength and long life and much stature. Then asked he of them whether they wished these things that they might benefit and counsel men and be glorious in battle. But they said, "No; we seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he offered unto them suc- cess in battle, knowledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Glooscap wax angry, and said: "Go your ways: you shall have strength and stature and length of days." And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, "lo ! their feet became rooted to the ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were turned into three cedar-trees, strong and tall, and enduring beyond the days of men, but destitute alike of all glory and of all use." Occasional glimpses of the railway are ob':;r;red on the 1., and on the r^ is the lai*ge island of Kennebecasis, which is separated from the Kingston peninsula by the Milkish Channel. Then the spheres of Land's End are passed on the r. ; and on the 1. is the estuary of the Nerepls River. At this point the low (but rocky and alpine) ridge of the Nerepia Hills crosses the river, running N. E. to Bull Moobe Hill, near the head of Bellelsle Bay. The steamer now changes her course from N. W. to N. E., and enters the Long Beaoh, a broad and straight expanse of the river, 16 M. long and 1 - 3 M. wide. The shores are high and bold, and the scenery has a lake- like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and Greenwich Hill, on the 1. bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge kno:vn as the DevWi Back, an off-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Nerepis Valley. Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small ham- let clustered about a tall-spired church. Caton's Island is just above Fos- ter's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oak Point (Lacey's inn), with a lighthouse and the spire of the Episcopal church of St. Paul. Farther up is the insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famous 42 BouUS, BELLEISLE BAT. for its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all along the shore. The steamer now passes through the contracted channel off Mistaken Point, where the river is nearly closed by two narrow peninsulas which project towards each other from the opposite shores. Bellelsle Bay turns to the N. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estnaiy to nearly hidden by a low island and by a rounded promontory on ther., beyond which the bay extends to the N. E for 12 - 14 M. , with a uniform width of 1 M. It is navi- gable for the largest vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore near the mouth is Kingston Creek, which leads S. in about 6 M. to Kingston (two inna), a sequestered village of 200 inhabitants, romantically situated among the hills in the centre of the peninsular parish of Kingston. This peninsula preserves an almost uniform width of 5- 6 M. for 30 M. , between the Kennebecasis Bay a .id river ontheS. £. and the Long Reach and Belleisle Bay on the N. W. The scenery, though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many fine water views. A few miles E. of Kingston is the remarkable lakelet called the Pickwaakeet, occu- pying an extinct crater and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was origi- nally settled by American Loyalists, and for many years Kingston was the capital of Kings County. The Tillage is most easily reached from Rothesay (see page 22). TennanVs Cove is a small Baptist village at the N. of the entraiice to the bay ; whence a road leads in 5 M. to the hamlet of Belleisle Bay on the N. short- (nearly opposite Long Point village) ; from which the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to the larger Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St. John. 4 M. beyond is Springfield (small inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated near the head of the bay, and 7 M. from Morton, on the Intercolonial Railway (Route 16). At the h^ad of the Long Reach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. and N. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4-5 M. above Belleisle Bay Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding hamlet of Wichham. A short distance beyond, on the W, bank, is Hamp- stead, with several mills and a granite-quarry. The shores of the river now become more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Lxmg Island are coasted for nearly 5 M. This pretty island is dotted with elm-trees, and contains two large ponds. On the mainland (W. shore), near its head, is the hamlet of Otnabog, at the mouth of a river which empties into a lake 8 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, connected with the St. John by a narrow passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a large pond, and hiding the outlet of the Washademoak Lake (see Route 9). ** This part of the Province, including the lands around the Grand Lake and along the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich country. A great propor- tion of the land is intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plenty, near the Grand Lake No part of America can exhibit greater beauty or more luxuriant fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." (McGregor's British America.) After passing the Upper Mnsquash Island, the steamboat rounds in at Gagetown (2 inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. bank of the river. It is the shire-town of Queen's County, and is the shippin;- point for a broad tract of farming-country. After leaving this point, the steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1.) and the level shores of Cam- bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg Biver. About the year 1640 the Irench seigneur erected at the mouth of the Jemseg a Ibrt, on whose ramparts were 12 iron guns and 6 " murtherers." It was provided MAUGERVILLB. Jt lumberman, with liia fkmily, a cow, and occasionally a hay8tacic,all destined for the city below. Nomerous canoes and boat« are in moUon, while the paddles of the steamboat break the polished sur- fiice of the stream and send it rippliog to the shore. In the midst of tliis landscape stands Fnetdericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of tha riTer, and in the midst of natural and cultirated scenery." (Qunib.) Fredericton. Hotels. Barker House, Queen St. , 9 2 a day ; Queen's Hotel, Queen St., 92a day. Stagrc^s leave tri-weekly for Woodstock (62 M. ; fore, 9 2.50) ; and tri-w«efcly for BoiestowD and the Miraniiclii (105 M. ; fore, 9 6). Railways. The European & North American (branch line) to St. John, in about 64 M. ; fare, 92. The New Brunswick Railway from Gibson (across the river) to Woodstock, Aroostook, and Edmundstun, 176 M. Fare to Woodstock, 9 1.7o (page 50). Steamboats* Daily to St. John, stopping at the river-ports. Fare, 9 l-fiO. In the summer there are occanonal night-boats, leaving Fredericton ai 4 P. M. When the river has enough water, steamboats sometimes run from Fredericton, 65 - 70 M. N. W. to Woodstock and Grand Falls. Ferry -steamers cross to St. Maiy's at flrequent intervals. Fredericton, the capital of the Province of New Brunswick, is a small city pleasantly situated on a level plain near the St. John River. In 1882 it had 6,006 inhabitants, with five newspapers and a bank. It is prob- ably the quietest place, of its size, north of the Potomac River. The streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and are lined with line old shade trees. The city has few manufacturing interests, but serves as a shipping-point and depot of supplies for the young settle- ments to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence o£ the offices of the Provincial Government, for which it was founded. Queen St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel with the river. At its W. end is the Government Hottse, a plain and spa- cious bt(Mie building situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick. Nearly in the middle of the city, and between Queen St. and the river, are the Military Grounds and Parade-ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 1,000 men), which were formerly the headquarters of the British army in this Province. Near the E. end of Queen St. is the Parliament Building, a handsome modern freestone structure, from whose top a fine view is obtained. It contains, he spacious halls of th<3 Lower House, Legislative Council, and Supreme Court (with j law library). The Legislative Library, in a fire-proof building adjacent, contains 15,000 volumes, includ- ing Louis Philippe's copy of Audubon's " Birds " (open during session, and on Wednesday afternoonp). The chief wealth of Fredericton is em- ployed in lumbering, and there are great booms above and below the city, with an important British and West-Indian trade. * Christ Charoh Cathedral is a short distance bevond the Parliament Building, and is embowered in a grove of fine old trees near the river (corner of Church and Queen Sts.). It is under the direct care of the Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled PRBDERICTON. Jtauie 8. 45 KKlstock, $ 1.7fi after that of Christ Chnrch Cathedral at Montreal. The beanty of the English Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is heightened by the picturesque eflfect of the surrounding trees. A stone spire, 178 ft. high, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The interior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a superb window of Newcastle stained-glass, presented by the Episcopal Church in the United States. It represents, in the centre, Christ cruci- fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, and Andrew on the r. In the cathedral tower is a chime of 8 bells, each of which bears the inscription : ** Ave Pater, Rex, Creator, Ave Fill, Liux, Salvator, Ave Spiritui Oonaolator, Ave Beata Unitaa. Ave Simplex, Ave Trine, Ave Regnuns in Sublime, Ave Resonet sine fine, Ave Sancu Trinitoa." St. Ann's is a pretty Episcopal Church, at the W. end; and in 1883 the Baptists and Presbyterians erected fine stone churches. Between Queen St. and the river are the substantial City Hall and Post-Office, and the well-equipped Normal School, where the teachers of the Province are trained. The University of New Brunswick is a substantial freestone building, 170 ft. long and 60 ft. wide, occupying a fine position on the hills which sweep around the city on the S. It was established by royal charter in 1828, while Sir Howard Douglas ruled the Province ; and was for many years a source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects, the latter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institu- tion which had been paid for by the whole people. It is fairly endowed by the Province, and does an important work in carrying on the higher education of the countr}-, despite the competition of denominational col- leges. The view from the University is thus described by Prof. Johnston : " From the high ground above Fredericton I again felt how very delightflil it is to feast the eyes, weary of stony barrens and perpetual pines, upon the beautifUl river St John Calm, broad, clear, just visibljr flowing on ; full to its banlcs, and re- flecting from its surfjuse the graceful American elms which at intervals fHnge its shores, it has all the beauty of a long lake without its lifelessness. But its acces- Eories are as yet chiefly those of nature, — wooded ranges of hills varied in outline, now retiring from and now approaching the water's edge, with an occasioned clear- ing, and a rare white-washed house, with its still more rarely visible inhabitants, and stray cattle In some respects this view of the St. John recalled to my mind some of the points on the Russian river (Neva) : though among European ^scenery, in its broad waters and forests of pines, it most resembled the tamer por- "^ Ions of the sea-arms and fiords of Sweden and Norway." St. Mary^s and Nashwaaksis are opposite Fredericton, on the 1. bank of phe St John, and are reached by a steam-ferry. Here is the terminus of the New Brunswick Railway (to Woodstock) ; and here also are the great riumber-mills of Mr. Gibson, with the stately church and comfortable (homes which he has erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak Fiver, whose valley was settled by lisbanded soldiers of tlie old Black Watch (42d Highlanders). 'ijli i 1 It ! »IH il t 46 . RtntteS. FREDBRICTON. In the yew 16S0 the Trench goTernment lent ont the Cherftlkr de Tillehon M GoTemor of Acadia. When he arrired at Port Royal (Annapolis), his capital, he found that Sir William Phipps'e New-England fleet had recently captiued and de- stroyed Its fortifications, so he ascended the St. John River and soon fixed his capi- tal at Natthwaak, where he remained for ecTeral years, organizing Indian forays on the settlements of Maine. In October, 1696, an Anglo-American army ascended the St. John In the ships Arundel, Province, and others, and laid siege to Fort Nashwaak. The Chevalier de TiUebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusiasm, and the de- tachments were put in charge of the Sieurs de la Cote, Tibierge, and Glignancourt. The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three days a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the fire from La Gate's battery dinmounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sieur de Falaise reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated down the river. The village of St. Anne was erected here, nnder the protection of Fort Nashwaak. Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1604, during his exploration of the river. In 1767 (and later) the place was crowded with Acadian refugees fleeing from the stem visitations of angry New England on the Minas and Port Royal districts. In 1784 came the exiled American Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into the wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the following year Gov. Guy Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the central location and pleasant natural ligatures of the place. Since the formation of the Canadian Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British garrison, Fredericton has become dorr^ant. 7 M. abote Fredericton is Aukpaque, the favorite home-district of the ancient Indians of the river. The uaaie signifies " a beautiful expanse of the river caused by numerous islands." On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar- ters of the American forces in 1777, when the St. John River was held by the expe- . dition of Col. Allan. They reached Aukpaque on the 5th of June, and saluted the new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Am- brose St. Aubin, their "august and noble chief,'' welcomed them and their cause. They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, and watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukpaque had been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from below, and Col. Allan led away about &(X) people, patriot Provincials, Indians, and their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least known incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to the ancient French trading-post called Fort Meductic, whence they carried their boats, families, and household goods across a long portage ; then they ascended the rapid Eel River to its reservoir-lake, from whose head another portage of 4 M. led them to North Pond. The long procesFion of exiles next defiled into the Grand Lake, and encamped for several days at its outlet, after which they descended the Ghiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into the Lower Schoodic I active in settling iders. On Cliarie- tillage of the same « a favorite camp- occasionally visit ^8 baneful to the of the exhaustion miing population as far as Gage- lower river are he Jemseg (see ived through its the most inter- issage the boat I slope of a hill (vater is seen in le 1. is Scotch- 1 the alluvium, 2-8 M. Avide. rge boats; and from the W. r " Thorough- It. This lake is I on either side. re described as with its white lighthonse rising firom the E. shore; and the steamer passes anmnd into White** Covef where there is a farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. [Thence the lake is crossed to the N. to Keyhole, a curions little harbor near the villages of Maquapit and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill Cove and Wiggin's Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove (3 inns), the I boat rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at ! whose head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the lake are entered. At Newcastle and other points in this vicinity, attempts have been made at coal-mining. Tb district about the head of Grand Lake covers an area of 40 square m ad the coal is said to be of good quality and in thick seams. But 1 et been done in the way of mining, owing to the difficulty of tr the coal to market. Soon after passing Newcastle Crec. ilie steamer ascends the N. E. arm, rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon Biver* This stream is ascended for several miles, through the depressing influences of ruined forests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbound Cove and the Coal Mines, the boat ties up for the night at a backwoods settlement, where the traveller must go ashore and sleep in a room reserved for wayfarers in an adjacent cottage. Brigg^s Comer is at the head of navigation, and a road runs thence N. E. across the wilderness to Richibucto, in 50-60 M. It is stated by good authority that the fishing in the Salmon River has been ruined by the lumber-mills ; but tliat wry good sport may be found on the Lake Stream, 15-20 M. beyond Brigg's Corner. Visitors to this district must be provided vrith full camp-equipage. A road also leads N. W. fh)m Brigg's Comer (diverging from the Uchibucto nwd at Qaspereau) to Missville, on the S. W. Miramichi, in about 40 M. IL Fredericton to Woodstock. By the Xew Brunswick Railway , which is now completed to Edmnndston. The company hopes that the line will be carried through to Riviere du Loup, on the St. Lawrence, at no distant date. Stations. — Oibson ; St Mary's, 1 M.; Douglas, 8; Springhill, 6}; Rockland, 10; Keswick, 12; Cardigan, 16^; Lawrence, I7i ; Zealand, 20; Stoneridge, 22^; Burnside, 26 ; Upper Keswick, 28i ; Burt Lake, 32 ; Haynesville, S6^ ; Millville, 88i ; Nackawic, 43 ; Falls Brook, 48 ; Woodstock Junction, 52 ; Newburgh, 57 ; River- side, 60 ; Northampton, 61^. Fare firom Fredericton to Woodstock, $ 1.75. Beyond Woodstock Junction the New Brunswick Railway runs N. to Hartland (61 M. firom Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 M.), and thence to Tobique and the upper St. John valley. The traveller crosses the St. John River by the steam ferry-boat (5 c.), from Fredericton to Gibson ; and the terminal station of the railway is near the ferrr-Ianding. As the train moves out, pleasant views are afforded 3 ]> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) k [/ <^ 1.0 I.I Lai2.8 1 2.5 US iiiiim •. ||l-25 1 1.4 1 1.6 11^^ II ^= 111!^ ^ — 6" ■ ► <^ Va 'W •y Photographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) •73-4503 % c\ \ 50 Route 11 FREDEBICTON TO WOODSTOCK. of the prosperoQA and happy MtQementa which have been fonnded hereby Mr. Gibson, the lumber-merchant. Glimpses of Fredoricton are obtained on the L, and beyond St. Mary's the Nashwaaksis River is crossed. Then foUows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and placid St. .John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, upon which are dusters of graceful trees. On the farther shore is seen the village of SpringhiU (see page 61) ; and the broad expanse of Sugar Island crosses the river a little way above. At about 10 M. from Fredericton the line changes its course from W. to N.W., and leaves tlie St. John valley, ascending the valley of the Keswick, — a district which is beginning to show the rewards of the arduous labors of its early pioneers. The Keswick Valley was settled in 1788, by the disbanded American-loyalist corps of New York and the Royal Guides, and their descendants are now attacking the remoter back-country. The Keswick flows through a pleasant region, and has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone on the 1. bank, reaching for 8 - 10 M. from its mouth. From Cardigan station a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardigan. The line next passes Bevenl statioua on the old donidn of the New Brunswick Land Company, an asiociation which was incorporated by royal charter before 1810, and purchase from the Crown 660,000 acres in York County. They established their capital and chief agency at the village of Stanley, opened roads through the forest, settled a large company of i)eople from the Isle of Skyeupon their lands, and expended 8600,000 in vain attempts to coloniae this district. The country now traversed by the line seems desolate and unpromising, and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left be- hind, and the open valley of the St John is approached, beyond JVieto- burgh. For the last few miles of the .journey beautiful views are given fVom the high grades of the line, including the river and its intervales and surrounding hills. The St. John River is crossed by a long wooden rail- way bridge. Wooditook {American House, comfortable), the capital of Carleton County, is situated at the confluence of the St. John and Meduxnekeag Rivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The population is over 2,000, and the town is favorably situated on a high bluff over the St. John River. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Church of St. Gertrude are on Main St., where are also the chief buildings of the town. The academy called Woodstock College is located here. The country in this vicinity is very attractive in summer, and is possessed of a rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Provinces. The soil is a calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other part of New Brunswick. The bold bluffs over the St. John are generally well- wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. There are large saw- mills at the mouth of the Meduxnekeag, where the timber which is cut on it* upper waters, in Maine, is made into lumber. 12 M. from Woodstock WOODSTOCK. JtmUe IS, 61 is the American village of HoulUm^ the capital of Aroostook Gotinty, M«ini& ; and the citizens of the two towns are in such close social relations that Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, both in its archi- tecture and its society. " Of the quality of the Woodstock iron it is impossible to speak too highly, eqie- cially for making steel, and it is eagerly sought by the armor^plate manu&turers in England. On six different trials, plates of Woodstock iron were only slightly ia- dented by an Armstrong shot, which shattered to pieces scrap-iron plates of the best quality and of similar thickness. When cast it has a fine silver-gray color, is singu- larly close-grained, and rings like steel on being struck. A cubic inch of Wood- stock iron weighs 22 per cent more than the like quantity of Swedish, Russian, or East Indian iron." (Hon. Arthub Gordon.) The mines are some distance firam the village, and are being worked efficiently, their products being much used for the British iroa-clad frigates. The N. B. & C. Railway runs S. fh>m Woodstock to St. Stephen and St. Andrews (see page 38); fare, $2.90. The N. B. Railway goes S. E. to Fredericton; Aire, 1 1.76. Steamers run to Fredericton and to Qrand Falls, when the river is high enough. Trains run N. to Qrand Falls, and W. to Honlton. 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St John Biver. During the spring and autumn, when there is enough water In the river, this route is served by steamboats. At other times the journey may be made by.the mail-stage. The distance is 62 M. ; the fare is 92.50. The stage is uncovered, and hence is undesirable as a means of conveyance except in pleasant weather. Most travellers will prefer to pass between Fredericton and Woodstock by the new rail- way (see Route 11). The stage passes up the S. and W. side of the river. The en- suing itinerary speaks of the river-villages in their order of location, without zefSBT* ence to the stations of the stages and steamboats. Distances. — Fredericton to Springhill, 5 M. ; Lower French Tillage, 9 ; Bris- tol (Kingaclear), 16 ; Lower Prince William, 21 ; Prince William, 26 ; Dumfries, 82 ; Pokiok Falls, ^ ; Lower Canterbury, 44 ; Cuiterbury,61 ; Lower Woodstock ; WVwd- stock, 62. On leaving Fredericton, pleasant prospects of the city and its Nash- waak suburbs are afforded, and successions of pretty views are obtained over the rich alluvial islands which fill the river for over 7 M., up to the mouth of the Keswick River. SpringhiU (S. shore) is the first village, and has aboat 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. The prolific intervales of Sugar Island are seen on the r., nearly closing the estuary of the Keswick, and the road passes on to the Indian village, where reside 26 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond is the Lower French Village (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming population descended from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river now run to the S. W., through the rural parish of Kingsclear, which was settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Beyond the hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After crossing Long's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon reach the village of Lower Prince WUliam (Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W: of this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lake Oeorge, where an antimony-mine is being worked; 8 M. beyond which is Magnndy (small inn), to the W. of Lake George. 52 Route It FORT MEDUCnC. II I The road passes on to Prince William, throngh a parish which was originally settled by the King's American Dragoons, and is now- occupied by their (descendants. On the N. shore are the hilly uplands of the parish of Queensbury, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Queen's Bangers, after the Revolutionary War. Rich intervale islands are seen in the river between these parishes. Beyond Dumfries (small hotel) the hamlet of Upper Queensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river sweeps around a broad bend at whose head is Pokiok, with large lumber-mills, 8 M. from AUandale. There is a fine piece of scenery here, where the River Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place "), the out- let of Lake George, enters the St. John. The river first plunges over a perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 75 ft. deep, and 25 ft. wide, cut through opposing ledges of dark rock. The Pokiok bounds down this chasm, from step to step, until it reaches the St. John, and afibrds a beautiful sight in time of high water, although its current is often encumbered with masses of riff-raff and rubbish from the saw-mills above. The gorge should be inspected from below, although it cannot b.e ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of the contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) is the pretty highland water of Prince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. in diameter. Lower Canterbury (inn) is about 5 M. beyond Pokiok, and is near the mouth of the Sheogomoc River, flowing out from a lake of the same name. At Canterbury (Hoyt's inn) the Eel River is crossed; and about 5 M. be- yond, the road passes the site of the old French works of Fort Meductic. This fort commanded the portage between the St. John and the route by the upper Eel River and the Eel and North Lakes to the Gbiputneticook Lakes, and Pa^sania- quoddy Bay. Portions of these portages are marked by deep pathways worn in the rocks by the moccaeons of many generations of Indian hunters and warriors. By this route marched the devastating savage troops of the Chevalier ^illehon to many a merciless foray on the New England borders. The land i ■^ vicinity, and the lordship of the Milicete town at Sleductic , were granted in IC a the Sieur CUgnancourt, the bravo Parisian who aided in repelling the troope of Massachusetts from the fort on the Jemseg. Here, also, during high water, ehe Indians were obliged to make a portage around the Meductic Kupids, and the command of this point was deemed of great importance and value. (See alfo the account of Allan's retreat, on page 46.) Off this point are the Meductic Rapids, where the steamboats sometimes find it difficult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the pleasant valley of the St. John, with hill-ranges on either side. Lower Woodstock is a prosperous settlement of about 500 inhabitants, and the road soo* approaches the N. B. Railway (see page 37), and runs between that line and the river. " The approach to Woodstock, from the old church upwards, is one of the pleas- sntest drives in the Province, the road being shaded on either side with fine trees and the comfortable fbrm-houses and gardens, the scattered clumps of wood, the FLORENCEVILLE. RotUe 13' 53 rish which was is now- occupied ids of the parish I of the Queen's ands are seen in imall hotel) the the river sweeps je lumber-mills, here, where the lace"), the out- plunges over a 100 ft. long, 76 ft. lark rock. The il it reaches the water, although id rubbish from below, although e velocity of the r to Dumfries) is 1 is nearly 2 M. and is nfear the the same name, i about 5 M. be- Vort Meductic. route by the upper kes.and PaHsania- iways worn in the and warriors. By er *^illebon to i '^ vicinity, IC the Sieur of Massachusetts the Indians were command of this iccount of Allan's )oat& sometimes waters, accel- »h the pleasant ower Woodstock the road soo* tweeu that line one of the pleas- e with fine trees ps of wood, th< windings of the great river, the picturesqne knolls, and the gay appearance of the pretty straggling little town, all giving an air of a long-settled, peaceful, English- looking country." (Qobdon.) 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Bivi^re du Loup. The New-BrunsTvick Railway runs up the valley, from Woodstock to EdniuudHton, through a rather picturesque and diversified country, with charming river-vie wa, and furnishing access to very good fishing-grounds. Along the 76 M., where the St. .lohn forms the international boundary, extending froui 2^ M. above Onind Falls to Edmundston, the scenery is very pleasing, with bold bills enclosing lake-like reaches of river, graceful inlands, and fair meadows. Stations. — Woodstock to Upper Woodstock, 2 M. ; Newburgh Junction, 6; Hartland, 13; Peel, 17; Florenceville, 23 ; Kent, 26; Bath, 29; Muniac,41; Perth, 49 ; Andover (Tobique), 61 ; Aroostook, 65 (branch hence to Fort Fairfield, 7 M. ; E.Lyndon, 14; Caribou, 10; Presque Isle, 34); Grand Falls, 73; St. Leonard's, 87 ; Green River, 104 ; St. Basil, 107 ; Edmundston, 113. It is 80 M. by stage from Edmundston to Uivi&re du Loup, on the St. Law- rence {9 b). The road from Woodt^tock to Florenceville is pleasant and in an attrac- tive country. "It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say English, I ought, perhaps, rather to say Scotch, for the general features are those of the lowland parts of Perthshire, though the luxuriant vegetation — tall crops of maize, ripening lields of golden wheat, and fine well-grown hard-wood — speaks of a more southern latitude. Single trees and clumps are here left about the fields and on the hillsides, under the shade of which well-looking cattle may be seen res ling, whilst on the other hand are pretty views of river and distance, visible under fine willows, or through birches that carried me back to Decside." (Hox. ARxnun Gordon.) Tlie train runs out E. from "Woodstock across the St. John vallev to Newburgh (or Woodstock) Junction, where it turns N. on the main line, and runs rapidly through the forest, emerging upon the meadows of the St. John, which are followed for a hundred miles. Victoria and Middle Simonds (Mills's Hotel) are quiet hamlets on the river, centres of agricul- tural districts of 5-800 inhabitants each. Florenceville (large hotel) is a pretty village, " perched, like an Italian town, on the very top of a high bluff far over the river." The district between Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after the American Revolution by the disbanded soldiers of the West India Rangers and the New Brunswick Fencibles. " Between Florenceville and Tobique the road becomes even prettier, winding along the bank of the St. John, or through woody glens that combine to my eye Somersetshire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part of southwestern Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the valley, showing the geological changes in the level of the river. 5 M. S. W. of the river is Mars Hill, a steep mountain about 1,200 ft. high, which overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of controversy during the old border-troubles, and its Buminit was cleared by the Commissioners of 1794. 54 Haute IS. TOBIQUE. rill Hi From Florenceville the train runs N. 3 M. to Kent, where a road leads across in 15 M. to the upper Miramichi waters, whence canoes and fisher- men descend the great river, 60 M., to Boiestown (see page 47), through rich hill and forest scenery, and with the best of salmon and trout fish- ing. (For guides, etc., write to Richards & Son, Fredericton, N. B.)- Beyond the long-drawn town of Kent, the train traverses the pleasant (but rather lonely) glens of Muniac, celebrated iu Indian tradition ; and reaches the little village of Perth, on the E. shore of the St. John, with a hotel and four or five stores, and mills. The frequent views of the bright river, on the left, give an appearance of diversity and cheerfulness to the landscape. Tobi(iae (/. A. Perley^s inn)^ otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly situated on the W. bank of the St. John, nearly opposite the mouth of the Tobique River. It has 400 inhabitants and 2 churches, and is the chief depot of supplies for the lumbering-camps on the Tobique River. Nearly opposite is a large and picturesque Indian village, containing about 150 persons of the Milicete tribe, and situated on the bluff at the confluence of the riveip. They have a valuable reservation here, and the men of the tribe engage in lumbering and boating. Fort Fairfield (,Fort Fairfield House) is 7 M. N. W. of Tobique, and is an American border-town, with 900 inhabitants, h churches, and several smail fac- tories. This town was settled by men of New Brunswick in 1816, at which time it was supposed to be inidde the Provincial line. A road runs from Fort Fairfield S. W. to Preaque Isle ( Presqve Me Hotel), a village of about 1 000 inhabitdnts, with 4 churches, an academy, several factories, and a newspaper (the '^Presque Isle Sun- rise"). This town is 42 M. N. of Houlton, on the U. S. military road which runs to the Madawaska district, and is one of the centres of the rich forming lands of the Aroostook Valley, parts of which are now occupied by Swedish colonists. From. Tobique to Bathurst. Through the WUdemeu. Guides and canoes can be obtained at the Indian village near Tobique. Abonk 1 M. above Tobique the voyagers ascend through the Narroivs, where the rapid cur- rent of the Tobique River is confined in a winding canon (1 M. long, 150 ft wide, and 50-100 ft. deep) between high limestone clifi^ Then the river broadens out into a pretty lake-like reach, with rounded and forest-covered hills on either side. The first night-camp is usually made high up on this reach. Two more rapids are next passed, and then commences a stretch of clear, deep water 70 M. long. Near the foot of the reach is the settlement otArthurette, with about 400 inhabitants. The Red Rapids are 11 M. from the mouth of the river, and descend between high shores. Occasional beautifully wooded islands are passed in the stream ; and by the evening of the second day the voyagers should reuch the high red clifis at the mouth of the broad Wapskehegan River. This Indian name signifies " a river with a wall at its mouth," and the stream may be ascended for 20 M., through a region of limestone hills and alluvial intervales. The Wapskehegan is 81 M. above the mouth of the Tobique. Infrequent clearings, red cliffs along the shore, and blue hills more remote, en- gage the attention as the canoe ascend:) still farther, passing the hamlet of Fosttr^s Cove on the N. bank, and running along the shores of Diamond and Long Island, 41 M. up river is the Agulquac River, coming in teom the £., and navigable by canoes for 25 M. As the intervales beyond this confluence are passed, occasional glimpses are gained (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other tall ridges. At 80 M. from the mouth of the river, the canoe reaches The Forks (4-5 days from Tobique). NICTOR LAKE. Route 13. 55 s, and is the chief The Campbell Rirer hen comes in from the E. and 8. E., from the gteat Toblqne Lake and other remote «lldemess>wateT8 : the Momoieket deacenda from the N., and from the N. W. conies the Nictor, or Little Tobique River. It is a good day's Journey from the Forks to Cedar Brook, on the Nictor; and another day conducts to the * Nictor I.ake, " possessing more beauty of scenery than any other locality I have seen in the Province, except, perhaps, the Bay of Chaleur. Close to its southern edge a granite mountain rises to a height of nearly 3,000 ft., clothed with wood to its summit, except where it breaks into precipices of dark rock or long gray shingly slopes. Other mountains of less height, but in some cases of more pictur- esque forms, are on other sides ; and in the lake itself, in the shadow of the moun- tain, is a little rocky islet of most inviting appearance." It takes 2-3 hours to a.«cend the mountain (Bald, or Sagamook), whence " the view is very fine. The lake lies right at our feet, — millions of acres of forest are spread out before us like a map, sinking and swelling in one dark mantle over hills and valleys, whilst Katah- din and Mars Hill in Maine, Tracadiegash in Canada, the Squaw's Cap on the Bestigoucho. and Oreen Mountain in Victoria, are all distinctly visible." (Qobdon.) From the head of Nictor Lake a portage 3 M. long leads to the Neplglguit Lake, on whose £. shore is the remarkable peak called Mount Tenerifie. Near the outlet is a famous camping-ground, where the fishing is good and in whose v'cinity deer and ducks are found. It takes about six days to descend the Nepiaiguit River to the Great Falls, the larger part of the way being through forests of fir and between distant ranges of bare granite hills. The Tobique affords the very best of salmon-fishing, with many trout also. The scenery is very interesting, with noble red cliffs, and canons, seething rapids, hill- girt lakes, and true forest wiidness. The Tobique is the most picturesque stream Ui New Brunswick. Orand Falls (Grand-Falla Hotel, a new summer-resort; American; Glasier's), the central point of the upper St. John region, once a British garrison, and now capital of Victoria County, has latterly become famous as a watering-place, the attractions being the noble river and gorge and hill scenery adjacent, the summer coolness, beautiful drives, fine fishing, grounds, etc. The pretty little village, with its three churches, stands ou a square peninsular plateau, with the river on three sides, and a dry ravine on the fourth. The immensely wide Broadway runs from the railway to the bridge. The diverse manners of the French habitans and Danish immigrants are worthy of observation. Partridges and wild ducks abound here, in the fall, and furnish good sport; and the strawberries of July are delicious. The Falls are at their best in May, when magnificent convul- sions of the flooded river are seen. A month later, the logs come down. Besides the view from the bridge, the Falls and the gorge should be seen from the old mill above, from the Wells (5 huge eroded pot-holes, with grand prospect of the canon and rapids), and from Lover's Leap, over the profound Falls-Brook Basin. The scenery is majestic and awe-inspiring. There are lovely views from the mountain W. of (and 700 ft. nbove), the village, including Blue Bell, Bald Head, and the long lines of the Sal- mon-River and Blue Mts. The ♦* Grand Falls are near the village, and form the most imposing cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad basin above, affording a landing-place for descending canoes; then hurries its massive current into a narrow rock-bound gorge, in which it slants down an incline of 6 ft., and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate ii i I I I ! :| 56 Jloute 13. GRAND FALLS. 68 ft. high. The shape of the fall is singular, since the water leaps from the front and from both sides, with minor and detached cascades over the outer ledges. Below the cataract the river whirls and whitens for | M. through a rugged gorge 250 ft. wide, whose walls of dark rock are from 100 to 240 ft. high. *' It is a narrow and frightful chasm, lashed by the troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and whirlpools always in motion ; at last the water plunges in an immense frothy sheet into a basin below, where it becomes tranquil, and the stream resumes its origi- nal features." Within the gorge »the river falls 58 ft. more, and the rug- ged shores are strewn with the wrecks of lumber-rafts which have become entangled here. The traveller should try to visit the Falls when a raft is about passing over. 3 - 4 M. below the Falls is the dangerous Bapide de Femme. Small steamers have been placed on the river above the Falls, and have run as far as the mouth of the St. Francis, (35 M. distant. It is a tradition of the Micmaos that in a remote age two families of their tribe were on the upper St. John liuntinf^, and were surprised by a war-party of the strange and dreaded Northern Indians. The latter were descending the river to at- tack the lower Micuiac villages, and forced the captured women to pilot them down. A few miles above the falls they asked their unwilling guides if the stream was all smooth bejiow, and on receiving an affirmative answi-r, lashed the canoes together Into a raft, and went to sleep, exhausted with their march. When near the Grand Fal.3 the women quietly dropped overboard and swam ashore, while the hostile war- riors, wrapped in slumber, were swept down into the rapids, only to awaken when escape was impossible. Their bodies were stripped by the Micmacs on the river be- low, and the brave women were ever afterward lield in high honor by the tribe. Crossing the St. John at Grand Falls, the line ascends the E. bank of the stream, and soon enters the Acadian- French settlements and farming- districts. 8- 10 M. up the road is the village of St. Leonard^ nearly all of whose people are French; and on the American shore (for the St. John River is for many leagues the frontier between the nations) is the simi- larly constituted village of Van Buren (two inns). This district is largely peopled by the Cyr, Violette, and Michaud families. The Hon. Arthur Gordon thus describes one of these Acadian homes near Grand River (in 1863) : " The whole aspect of the farm was that of a mitairie in Nor- mandy ; the outer doors of the house gaudily painted, the panels of a different color from the frame, — the large, open, uncarpeted room, with i's bare shining floor, — the lasses at the spinning-wheel, — the French costume and appearance of Madame Violet and her sons and daughters, — ail carried me back to the other side of the Atlantic." Grand River (TardifTs inn) is a hamlet about 4 M. beyond St. Leonard, at the mouth of the river of the same name. The St. John River to the Reatigouche. A rugged wilderness-journey may be made ob this line, by engaging Acadian guides and canoes at the Madawaska settlements. 3-4 weeks will be sufficient time to reach the Bay of Chaleur, with plenty of fishing on the way. On leaving the St. John the voyagers ascend the Grand River to its tributary, the Waagansis. A port- age of 5-6 M. from this stream leads to the Waagnu, down whose narrow current the canoes float through the forest until the brood Ilestigouche is entered (see Route 15 ; see also Hon. Arthur Gordon in *' Vacation Tourists" for 1862-68, p. 477). MADAWASKA. Moute IS. 67 Is the £: bank of 'ond St. Leonard, 6 M. above Grand River is Si. Basil (two inns), which, with its back settlements, has over 1,400 inhabitants. A few miles beyond are some islands in the St. John River, over which is seen the American village of Grant Isle (Levecque's inn), a place of 700 inhabitants, all of whom are Acadians. This village was incorporated in 1869, and is on the U. S. mail- I route from Van Buren to Fort Kent. Beyond the populous village of Green River the road continues around the great bend of the St. John to the Acadian settlement of Edmandston ( Whitney's Hotel), at the con- I Alienee of the Madawaska and St. John Rivers. This is. the centre of [the Acadian-French settlements which extend from the Grand Falls. This district is studded with Roman Catholic chapels, and is divided into narrow farms, on which are quaint little houses. Tliere are rich tracts of intervale along the rivers, and the people are generally in a prosperous and happy condition. The visitor should ascend to the top of the loftily situated old block-house tower, over Edmundston, for the sake of the wide prospect over the district. The village is rather crude, but the scenery about it, including the great river, the rich meadows, the far- away Mt. Carmel, is very charming. The best of fishing (trout and whitefish, tuladi and toque, — these latter weighing from 15 to 35 pounds leach) is to be enjoyed in this vicinit}*, particularly in Fish River and the Eagle Lakes, Green River, and the Temiscouata region. This people ia descended from the French colonists who lived on the shores of the [Bay of Fundy and the Kasin of Minas at the middle of the ISth century. When the cruel edict of exile was carried into effect in 1755 (see Route 21), many of the Acadians fled from the Anglo-American troops and took refuge in the forest. A por- tion of them ascended the St. John to the present site of Fredericton, and founded a new home ; but they were ejected 30 years later, in order that the land might be [given to the refugee American Loyalists. Then they advanced into the trackless forest, and settled in the Madawaska region, where they have been permitted to re- main undisturbed. When the American frontier was pushed forward to the St. John River, by the sharp diplomacy of Mr. Webster, the Acadians found thcmFelvefl [divided by a national boundary ; and so they still remain, nearly half of the villages {being on the side of the United States. It is estimated that there are now about 1 8,000 persons in these settlements. " It was pleasant to drive along the wide flat intervale which formed the Mada- [waska Valley ; to see the rich crops of oats, buckwheat, and potatoes; the large, [often handsome, and externally clean and comfortable-looking houses of the inhab- litants, with the wooded high grounds at a distance on our right, and the river on lour left, — on which an occasional boat, laden with stores for the lumberers, with [the help of stout horses, toiled against the current towards the rarely visited head- Iwaters of the tributary streams, where the virgin forests still stood unconscious of [the axe. This beautiful valley, with the rich lands which border the river above [the mouth of the Madawaska, as far almost as that of the river St. Francis, is the Ipeculiar seat of the old Acadian-French." (Prof. Johnston.) The American village of Madawaska (two inns) is opposite Edmundston, and las over 1,000 inhaloitants. The U.S. mail-stages run from this point up the val- ^y of the St. John for 10 M. to another Acadian village, which was first named ionne (in honor of Father Dionne, who founded here the Church of St. Luce) ; in "9 was incorporated as Dickeyville, in honor of some local statesman ; and in 1871 eceived the name of Frenchville, '* as describing the nationality of its settlers." [From near Frenchville a portage 5 M. long leads to the shores of Lake Cleveland y la fine sheet of water 9 M. long, connected by Second Lake and Lake Preble with \lMke Sedgwick, which is nearly 10 M. long. 3* 08 Jioute IS. TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 16 M. 8. W. of Bfadawaska !■ Fort JTenl, an old border-post of the U. B. Army. It has two inn* and about 1,000 inhabitants (including the ac^acent formioff settle^ ments), and is the terminus of the mail-route from Van Buren. From this point •tages run W. 20 M. to the Acadian villaffe of SK. Francis, near the mouth of the St. Francis River. The latter stream, flowmg from the N. W., is the boundary of the United States for the next 40 M., descending through the long lakes called Wela- stookwaagamis, Pechtaweekaagomic, and PohenegHmook. Above the mouth of the St. Irancis, the St. John River is included in the State of Maine, and flows through that immense and trackless forest which covers " an extent seven times that of the &mous Black Forest of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. The States of Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Delaware could be lost together in our northern forests, and still leave about each a margin of wilderness sufBciently wide to make the exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure*' Its chief tributary in the woods is the Allagash, which descends from the great Lakes Pemgockwahen and Chamberlain, near the Chesuncook and Moosehead Lakes and the head-waters of the Penobscot. The £agle Lakes* ia Maine, are visited hence (guides obtained at Whitney's) by a portage of 5^ M. from Frenchville, 6 M. above Edmundston, to Long Lake, whence, by Mud, Cross, Square, and Eagle Lakes, and Fish River, the canoes de- scend through beautifiil scenery to Fort Kent, 20 M. above Edmundston. There are fiunous burbot and whiteflsh in these lakes. At Edmnndston the Royal mail-route leaves the St. John River, and ascends the W. shore of the Madawaska. Bat few settlements are passed, end at 12 M. from Edmundston the Province of Quebec is entered. About 2ft. M. from Edmnndston the road reaches the foot of the picturesque Temisooiiata Lake, where there is a small village. The road is parallel with the water, but at a considerable distance from it, until near the upper part, and pretty views are afforded from various points .where it overlooks the lake. Tenmcouata is an Indian word meaning " Winding Water,'* and the lake is 80 M. long by 2 - 3 M. wide. The scenery is very pretty, and the clear deep waters contain many fish, the best of which are the tuladi, or great gray trout, which sometimes weighs over 12 pounds. There are also white- fish and burbot. Visitors to the lake usually stop at the Lake-Side House, where canoes may be obtained. From the W., Temiscouata receives the Cabineau River, the outlet of Long Lake (15 by 2 M.) ; and on the E. is the Tuladi River,.which rises in the highlands of Rimouski and flows down through a chain of secluded and rarely visited lakelets. The chief settlement on Temiscouata Lake is the French Catholic hamlet of Notre Dame du Lac, which was founded since 1861 and has 180 inhabitants. Fort Ingalls commanded the lake, and had a garrison of 200 men as late as 1850. At the mouth of the Tuladi, 285 barrels of whiteflsh were taken in the M\ run of 1378. 1 M. up are fells, from which the still Tuladi may be ascended for 16 M., to the Forks, where the flshing is very good. Deer, bears, caribou, and other game abound in these vast untrodden forests. A favorite trip for sportsmen leads from Edmundston (by carriage) up the Madawaska to Griffin's, 16 M< , then a portage of 2\ M. to Mud Lake ; then a long and delightfril canoe-descent to Fourth Squa-took like ; then down into Third Squa-took, from whoso shore rises the noble-viewing Squa-took Peak ; and then down to the Forks, and along the Tuladi River to Temis- couata Lake. The road from Temiscouata Lake to Riviere du Loup is 40- 50 M. lon^ and descends through a wild region into which few setUers have advanced. SHEDIAO. ItouU 14. 59 14. St John to Shediao. Dlftaaeet. — St. John to Moncton, 89 M. ; Painieo Junction, 97 : DorohMter Boad, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chdne, 108. St. John to Painsec Junction, see Route 16. Passengers for Shediac and Point du Gh§ne change cars at Painseo Junction, and pass to the N. E. over a level and unproductive country. Shediao ( Wddon^s ; Waverley ) is a village of 600 inhabitants, with 8 churches, — Baptist, the Catholic St. Joseph de Shediac, and St. Andrew^s, the head of a rural deanery of the Anglican church. The town is well situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber and deals sent annually to Great Britain. The small oysters ( Ostrea canadensis) of the adjacent waters are also exported to the provincial cities. Shediac was occupied by a French garrison in 1750, to protect the borders of Acadia, and in 1767 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and settlers here. The French element is still predominant in this vicinity, and its interests are represented by a weekly paper called "Xe Moniteur AcadienJ'* Point du Chene (Schurman's Point du Chgne House) is 2 M. N. E. of Shediac, and is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port nearest to St. John. It has a village of about 200 inhabitants, with long piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passen- gers embark on the steamers for Prince Edward Island. Daily steamers run from Point du Ch§ne to Summerside, P. E. I., where they make con- nections with the trains of the P. E. I. Bailway (see Route 43) for Char- lottetown and all parts of the island. Passengers leave St. John at 8 a. m., and reach Charlottetown at 8 p. m. Ihe Westmorland Coast. Infrequent mail-stages run E. from Shediao by Point du Cbdne to Barachois, 8 M. ; Tedish, 17; Great Sbemogue (Avard's Hotel), 22: and Little Sbemogue, 24. These settlemeuts conuui about 1^500 inhabitants, most of whom are Acadians. Capes Jourimain (fixed white light, visible 14 M.) and Tor- mentine are respectively 15 M. and 20 M. E. of Little Sbemogue. 10 - 12 M. N . of Shediac (mail-stage daily) are the large and prosperous Acadian settle- ments of the Cocagnes (tbree inns), having about 1,5U0 inhabitants, seven eighths of wbom are of French descent. These people are nearly all fanners, engaged in tilling the level plains of Diindas, although a good harbor opens between the villages. 21 M. from Shediac is Buctouche (two inns), a prosperous Acadian village of 400 inhab- itants, engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of lumber and oysters. m m '!li ; I S9 a RmUe 77. ST. JOHN TO QUEBEC. 77. St John and Hali&z to Qnebeo. ^ The Intercolonial Railway is the gigantic and costly outgrowth of the Canadian National sentiment, which has established here a perfectly equipped railway route of rast extent, through a region which can never pay the cont of its operation, being thinly settled, and exposed to yery serious climatic yicissitudes. It was deemed essential to h«>Te a first-class route between the maritime and inland proT- inces, entirely on Canadian territory, eyen though the distance is nearly double that across New England. The first road was surveyed by Migor Yule, R. E., before 1840, and ran across the present Northern Maine, then claimed and partly held by Canada. In 1846-48 a new route was carefully laid out by officers of the Royal Engineers. The construction began in 1869, and was finished in 1876. This great military route runs from the E. terminus of the Grand Trunlc Railway, at Riviere da Loup, to Rimouski, where it leaves the St. Lawrence, and crosses the lonely high- lands of Quebec, reaching grades 743 ft. above the sea, and descends to the Bay Chaleur. Thence it runs down the north shore of New Brunswick, and down across Nova Scotia, to Halifax, its magnificent winter-harbor. From the main line there are branches to Dalhousie, Chatham, Richibucto, Point du ChSne, St. John, and Pictou. The entire length of track is about 850 M. 1 Stations (Moncton to Quebec).— Moncton to Berry's Mills, 8 M. ; Canaan, 19; Coal Branch, 23; Weldford, 37; Kent Junction, 48 ; Rosjorsville, 57 ; Barnabr River, 69 ; Chatham Junction, 72 ; Derby, 76 ; Newcastle, 78 ; Beaver Brook, 88 : Bartibogue, 99 ; Red Pine, 109 ; Bathurst, 122 ; Petite Roche, 134 ; Belledune, 142 Jacquet River, 151 ; New Mills, 161 ; Charlo, 167 ; Dalhousie, 177 : CampbelUon, 185; Metapedia, 198; Mill Stream, 208; Assametquaghan, 219 ; Causap-cal, 280: Amqui, 246 ; Cedar Hall, 255 ; Sayabec, 261 ; Tartague, 272 ; Little M^tis, 282; St. Flavie, 291 ;: St. Luce, 299 ; St. Anaclete, 306 ; Rimouski, 309 ; Sa«re Coenr. 817; Bic,319; St. Fabien, 328 ; St. Simon, 838 ; Trois Pistoles, 347 ; St. Eloi, 358 Isle Verte, 858; St. Arsene, 366; Cacouna, 368; Riviere du Loup, 374: Notre Dame du Portage, 380 ; St. Alexandre, 386 ; St. Andre, 391 ; St. Helene, 394 ; St. Paschall, 400 ; St. Philippe de Neri, 402 ; Riviere Quelle, 409 ; St. Anne, 415 ; St. Roche, 423 ; Elgin Road, 426 ; St. Jean Port Joli, 430 ; Trois Saumons, 435 ; L'lalet, 433; L'Anse i Gile 442; Cap St. Ignace, 445; St. Thomas, 452; St. Pierre, 459; St. Francois, 462; St. Valier, 486; St. Michel. 470; St. Charles, 476; St. Henri 484 ; St. Jean Chrysostome, 488 ; Chaudiire Curve, 492 ; Hadlow, 498 ; Point Levi, 499; Quebec, 500. For nearly 80 M., from Moncton to Newcastle, (isee page 62), the route lies over a dull and uninteresting country, level and thinly settled. Steam- ers run hence to Chatham (also a branch railway) and up the Miramichi, and carriages 30 M. to the hotel on the Tabusintac, famous for great sea- tn)iit. The railway crosses the Miramichi on immense iron bridges, carried by 12 stone piers, and runs for nearly 50 M. to Bathorst (see page 65), where it crosses the Nepisiguit on a long bridge of English iron. The scener}' is much finer, as the train rushes on, with frequent glimpses of the Bay of Chaleur, for 50 M., to Dalhousie (see page 67), 9 M. beyond which is Campbellton (page 68), with its railway dining-room. Charm- ing scenery follows, and the line crosses the Restigouche River on a noble iron bridge, and enters the Province of Quebec. ST. JOHN TO QUEBEC. RouU 77, 69 b 90, ;h of the Oanadian [pped railway route nt of ibi operation, kcissitudes. It was le and inland proT- ce is nearly double ' Yule, R. E., before and partly held by fficers of the Royal a 1876. This great lilway, at Riviere da M)8 the lonely high- escends to the Bay bIc, and down across ;he main line there i6ne, St. John, and Ilfl, 8 M. ; Canaan, sville, 67; Barnaby Beaver Brook, 88; 34; Belledune, 142 ; l77; Gampbellton, : Gausapocal, 280; Little M6tis, 282; 309; Sacre Coeur, 47 ; St. Eloi, 353 ; Lonp, 374 : Notre Helene, 394; St. t. Anne, 415 ; St. iimona, 435 ; L'lslet, St. Pierre, 459; 89,476; St. Henri, w, 498; Point Levi. Beyond the hamlet of Metapedia, the line begins the long ascent of the Metapedia valley, a stretch of 70 M. of wild, mountain-girt, island-dotted, Scottish scenery, with no villages or towns, or hotels. Lake Metapedia affords a beautiful sight, and abounds in fish and game, but no accommo- dations for tourists have yet been prepared. Vast forests hem in the road on every side, stretching for many.leagues along the dreary and uninhab- ited highlands. About the only product of the region is salmon, of which the long and rapid streams are full, and so unsophisticated are these huge fish that they are captured by the simplest processes. Sayabeo, a few miles farther on, througli the woods, is a lonely sta- tion at the crossing of the old military road from Quebec to New Bruns- wick. A long up-grade leads thence to Malphet Lake, and soon reaches the Tartigon River, which it follows down to the village of the same name. A dreary stretch of track follows, partlj' obscured in deep rocky cuttings, and partly running through the debris of burned forests, and conducting, at last, to the shores of the St. Lawrence River, by the Metis Falls and the great cuttings near St. Octave, which is the station for the Grand and Little Metis, famous salmon-streams, where good hunting is found. There is a large summer-hotel at Little Metis. The Grand Metis River is crossed by a long, lofty, and costly railway bridge, supported on high stone abutments, a mile or two below which is the Grand Metis Fall, where the river descends 75 ft. at a single plunge. A few miles beyond is St. Flavie, where the route enters the more thickly settled French coimtry along the St. Lawrence. ge 62), the route y settled. Steam- the Miramichi, )us for great sea- se iron bridges, tlmrBt (see page of English iron, requent glimpses 67), 9 M. beyond :f-room. Charm- River on a noble 60 Jtmite IS. RICHIBUCTO. 'i I 11 ^ ! 15. The Bay of Cfaalenr and the North Shore of New Brunswick. Since the construction of the Intercolonial Railway, the routes of Pro- rincial travel have undergone many important changes, particularly around the N. shore of New Brunswick, where the trains on this great route have supplanted the services of the steamships. The regular steam- ship lines between Quebec and Prince Edward Island, which used to serve these ports, now no more visit the shores of New Brunswick. The following account is preserved for the use of travellers by sea, although the descriptions of the towns were revised in 1883. The Quebec steamships do not now go up the Baj' of Chaleur, but the account of the Bay is retained for the use of voyagers by other vessels. A steamboat of the St. Lawrence Steam Navigation Co. leaves Campbell- ton every Wednesday and Saturday, at 5 A. m., and runs out to Carleton, New Richmond, New Carlisle, Paspebiac, Port Daniel, Newport, Grand River, Percd and Gasp^ Basin. It leaves Gasp^ on the return voyage at 2 A.M., Thursdays and Mondays. The steamship leaves the long railway wharf at Point du ChSne, and passes the low shores of Shediac Island on the 1. The course is laid well out into the Northumberland Strait. Between Shediac Point and Cape Egmont (on Prince Edward Island) the strau is nearly 20 M. wide. On the 1. the harbors of Cocagne and Buctouche (see page 69) are soon passed. 14^ M. N. of Buctouche are the low cliffs and lighthouse of Richibucto Head, beyond which (if the weather permits) the steamer takes a more westerly course, and enters the great Richibucto River, which empties its stream through a bi*oad lagoon enclosed by sand-bars. Riohibuoto {Kent Hotel) is the capital of Kent County, and occupies a favorable position for commerce and shipbuilding, near the mouth of the Richibucto River. It has about 800 inhabitants and 3 churches, and is engaged in the exportation of fish and lumber. The river is navigable for 20 M., and has been a great highway for lumber-vessels, although now the supply of the forests is wellnigh exhausted. The rubbish of the saw- mills has destroyed the once valuable fisheries in this river. In the region about Richibucto are many Acadian farmers, and the hamlet of Aldouin Hiver, 4 M. from the town, pertains to this people. Daily stages run from Richibucto to Shediac and to Chatham (see page 61). A road leads S. W. through the wilderness to the Grand Lake district (Route 10). The name Richibucto signifies " the River of Fire,'' and the shores of the river and bay were formerly inhabited by a ferocious and bloodthirsty tribe of Indians. So late as 1787, when the American Loyalist Powell settled here, there were but four ChrlstiaQ families (and they were Acadians) iu all this region (the present county of Ksnt). The power of the Richibuctoit waa broken iu 1724, when all their warriors^ CHATHAM. Jioute 15. 61 lore of New under command of Ar^^oosh (" the Oreat Wizard *'), attacked Canso and captured 17 Massachusetts vessels. Two well-manned vessels of Boston and Capo Ann were sent after them, and overtook the Indian fleet on the coast. A desperate naval battle ensued between the Ma<<8achu8etts sloops and the Indian prize-ships. The Richi- buciu£ fought with great valor, but were finally disconcerted by showers of hand- grenades from the Americans, and nearly every warrior was either killed or drowned. After emerging from Richibucto harbor, the steamer runs N. across the opening of the shallow Kouchibouguac Bay, whose shores are low sand- bars and beaches which enclose shoal lagoons. 5 M. above Point Sapin is Escuminac Point, on which is a powerful white light, visible for 25 M. Tlie course is now laid more to the W., across the Miramichi Bay, and on the 1. are seen the pilots' village and the lighthouses on Preston's Beach. The entrance to the Inner Bay of Miramichi is between Fox Island and Portage Island, the latter of which bears a lighthouse. The Inner Bay is 13 M. long and 7-8 M. wide, and on the S. is seen Vin Island, back of which is the Bay du Vin. Two centuries ago all this shore was occupied by French settlements, whose only remnant now is the hamlet of Portage Road, in a remote corner of the bay. When about 9 M. from the entrance, the steamer passes between Point Quart and Grand Dune Island (on the r.), which are 3J M. apart. 8-4 M. farther on, the course is between Oak Point, with its two lighthouses (on the r.), and Cheval Point, beyond which is the populous valley of the Nnpan River, on the S. The hamlet of Black Brook is visible on the 1., and off Point Napan is Sheldrake Island, a low and swampy land lying across the mouth of the river. The vessel now enters the Miraxniolii Biver, and on the r. is the estuary of the Great Bartibog, with the beacon- lights on Malcolm Point. The Miramichi is here a noble stream, fully 1 M. wide, but flowing between low and uninteresting shores. Chatham ( Canada Hotel; Bowser's Hotel) is the chief town on the North Sliore, and has a population of nearly 3,000, with 6 churches, a weekly newspaper, and a Masonic hall. It is 24 M. from the sea, and is built along the S. shore of the river for a distance of li M. On the summit of the hill along which the town is built is seen a great pile of Catholic in- stitutions, among which are the Cathedral of St. Michael, the convent and hospital of the Hotel Dieu de Chatham, and St. Michael's College. These buildings, like all the rest of the town, are of wood. The chief industries of Chatham are shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, and the river here usually contains several large ships, which can anchor oflf the wharves in 6 - 8 fathoms. About 22 M. beyond Chatham are the head-waters of the Tabusintac River» *' tbu ispoi-tsuian's paradise," a narrow and shallow stream in which an abundance of trout is found. Tri-weekly stages run from Chatham N. E. to Oak Point, 11 M. ; Burnt Church, 20; Neguac, 25; Tabusintac, 37; Tracadie, 52; Pockmouche, 64; Shippigan, 70 ^ and Caraquette (Lower), 73. The first 30 M. of this road are along (or near) the N. shore of the Miramiclii Kiver and the Inner Bay, by the hamlets of Oak Point and Burnt Church. 62 MouU 15. THE MIRAMICHI. Burnt Church is still the capital of the Micmac Indians of the Province, and here they gather in great numbers on St. Anne's Day and engage in religious rites and athletic sports and dances. Hon. Arthur Gordon says: "I yras Surprised by the curious resemblance between these dances and those of the Greek peasantry. Even the costumes were in some degree similar, and I noticed more than one short colored-silk jacket and handkerchief- bound head that carried me back to Ithaca and Paxo." (Vacation Tourists, 1863 ) Tabuslntac (small inn) is near the mouth of the Tabusintac River, and is a Presbyterian village of about 400 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries. Many largo sea-trout are caught near the mouth of the river, and in October immense numbers of wild geese and ducks are shot in the adjacent lagoons. Tracadie is a settlement which contains 1,2C0 French Aoadians, and is situated near a broad lagoou which lies inside a line of sand-bars. Salmon, rod, and herring are found in the adjacent viaters, and most of the people are engagtd in the flsh- eries. The Tracadie Lazaretto is devoted to the reception of persons afflicted with the leprosy, which prevails to some extent in this district, but has diminished since the government secluded the lepers in this remote hospital There is an old tradi- tion that the leprosy was introduced into this region during the last century, when a French vessel was wrecked on the coast, some of whose sailors were from Mar- seilles and had contracted the true elephantiasis gracorum (Eastern leprosy) in the Levant. Its perpetuation and hereditary transmission is attributed to the closeness of the relation in which intermarriage is sanctioned among the Acadians (sometimes by dispensations from the Church) Pockmouche is a settlement of 800 Acadian farmers, and here the mail-route forks, — one road running 6 M. N. E. to Shippigan (see page 64), the other run- ning 9 M. N. to Lower Caraquette (see page 66}. Biver-stenmers run up the N. W. and S. W. branches, and occasionally to Burnt Church and Uay du Vin. Another river-steamer runs up the river four times daily to Newcastle (6 M.), touching at Douglastown, a dingy village ou the N. bank, \vhere much lumber is loaded on the ships which take it hence to Europe. This village contains about 400 inliabitants, and has & marine hospital, built of stone. Newcastle ( Waverley Hotel) is the capital of Northumberland County, and is situated at the head of deep-water navigation on the Mirainichi River. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, oysters, and preserved lobsters. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is located here, and a branch line has been built to Chatham. 150,000,000 ft. of lumber are ex- ported hence annually. There are 5 churches here. A short distance above Newcastle, and beyond the Irish village of Nel- son, is the confluence of the great rivers known as the N. W. MiramichI and the S. W. Miramichi. These streams are crossed by the largest and most costly bridges on the line of the Intercolonial Railway. The name Miramichi signifies " Happy Retreat," and signifies the love that the In- dians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper waters of the rivers traverse wide districts of unsettled country, and are visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers of trout and salmon. This sj'stem of waters is connected by portages with the Nepisiguit, the Restigouche, the Upsalquitch, the Tobique, and the Nashwaak Rivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramichi, beyond Boiestown, at the mouths of the Salmon, Rocky, Clearwater, and Burnt Hill Brooks. A tri-weekly stage runs from Newcastle to Boies- town and Fredericton (see page 46), traversing 106 M. of a rude and sparsely settled country. SHIPPIGAN ISLAND. ItouU 15. 63 Beavbmr's Tslattd is off upper Nel-^o ad ^ras fonnerly ocenpied by a prmperdtu French town, but few relics of whici -i now to be seen. It was destroyed by a British naval attack in 1759. A coW.„ was planted here in 1722, under Cardinal Fleury's administration, and was provided with 200 houses, a church, and a 16-gun battery. In 1642-44 the Miramichi district was occupied by Jean Jaques Enaud, a Basque gentleman, who founded trading-posts on the islands and entered also upon the walrus fisheries. But a contention soon arose between Enaud's men and the In- dians, by reason of which the Basque establishment:) were destroyed, and their peo- ple were forced to flee to Nepislguit. In 1672, after the Treaty of Breda, several families from St. Malo landed on this coast and founded a villafre at Bay du Vin. t'rom 1740 to 1757 a flourishinpc trade was carried on between the Miramichi county and France, great quantities of furs being exported. But the crops failed in 176f, and the relief-ships from France were captured by the British. In the winter of 1758 the transport I,' /nrff'ennc, of Morlaix, was wrecked in the bay, and the dis- heartened colonists, famished and pestilence-stricken, were rapidly depleted by death. Many of the French settlers died during the winter, and were buried on Beaubair's Point. Those who survived fled from the scene of such bitter sulTering, and by the arrival of spring there were not threescore inhabitants about the bay. In 1759 a British war-vessel entered the bay for wood and water, and the first boat's-crew which landed was cut off and exterminated by the Indians. The frigate bombarded the French Fort batteries, and annihilated the town at Canadian Cove. Then sailing to the N. E., the commander landed a force at Neguac, and burnt the Catholic chapel, the inhabitants having fled to the woods. Neguac is known to this day only by the name of Burnt Church. After this fierce foray all the N. coast of New Brunswick was deserted and relapsed into a wilderness state. In 1775 there was an insignificant Scotch trading-post on the S. W. Miramichi, where 1,500 - 1,800 tierces of salmon were caught annually. This was once surprised and plundered by the Indiana in sympathy with the Americans, but in 1777 the river was visited by the sloop-of-war Viper and the captured American privateer Lafayette. The American flag was displayed on the latter vessel, and it was given out that her crew were Bostonians, by which means 35 Indians from the great coun- cil at Bartibog were decoyed on board and carried captive to Quebec. la 1786 the Scottish settlers opened large saw-mills on the N. W. Miramichi, and several families of American Loyalists settled along the shore. Yast numbers of masts and spars were sent hence to the British dock-yards, and the growth of the Miramichi was rapid and satisfactory. In 1793 the Indians of the hills gathered secretly and concerted plans to exterminate the settlers (who had mostly taken refuge in Chatham), but the danger was averted by the interposition of the French Catholic priests, who caused the Indians to disperse. In October, 1825, this district was desolated by the great Miramichi Fire, which swept over 3,000,0()0 acres of forest, and destroyed $ 1,000,000 worth of property and 160 human lives. The town of Newcastle was laid in ashes, and all the lower Mi- ramichi Valley became a blackened wilderness. The only escape for life was by rushing into the rivers while the storm of fire passed overhead ; and here, nearly covered by the hissing waters, were men and women, the wild animals of the woods, and the domestic beasts of the farm. On leaving the Miramichi River and Bay the vessel steams out into the Gulf, leaving on the N. W. the lovjr shores of Tabusintac and Tracadic, in- dented by wide and shallow lagoons (see page 62). After running about 1 85 M. the low red cliffs of Shippigan Island are seen on the W. This I island is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and is inhabited by Acadian fishermen. ; On the S. W. shore is the hamlet of Alexander Point, on Alemek Bay, fopposite the populous village and magnificent harbor of Shippigan. There are valuable fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerel off these shores, and the deep triple harbor is well sheltered by the islands of Shippigan and Pocksuedie, forming a secure haven of refuge for the American and Gan»* dian fleets. Noble wild-duck shooting here in spring and fall. -*i**%-lirii,**K.:.4**v. 64 MotUe 15. BAY OF CHALEUR. ! I Shlpplgan Harbor^ though itill rarroonded by forests, has occupied a prom- Inent place in the calculations of commerce and travel. It has been proposed that the Intercolonial Railway shall connect here with a transatlantic steamship Une, thus withdrawing a large portion of the summer travel from Hali&x and New York. The distance from Shippigan to Liverpool by the Straits of Belleisle is 148 M. less thnn the distance fh>m Halifax to Liverpool, and Shippigan is 271 M. nearer Montreal than is Halifax. The Ocean Ferry. — The following plan is ingeniously elaborated and pow- erfully supported, and is perhaps destined to reduce the transatlantic passage to 100 hours. It is to be carried out with strong, swift express-steamers on the Ocean and the Gulf, and through trains on the railways. The itinerary is as follows : London to Valentia, 640 M., 16 hours ; Yalentia to St. John's, N. F.. 1,640 M., 100 hours; St. John's to St. George's Bay (across Newfoundland by railway), 250 M., 8^ hours; St. George's Bay to Shippigan (acrof>8 the Gulf), 250 M., 16^ hours; Shippigan to New York, 906 M., 31 hours ; London to New York, 171 hours, or 7^ days. It is claimed that this route would escape the dangers between Cape Race and New York ; would give usually quiet passages across the Gulf; would diversify the monotony of the long voyage by three transfers, and would save 4-6 days on the recorded averages of the steamships between New York and Liverpool (see maps and details in Sandford Fleming's " Intercolonial Railway Survey"). The steamer now crosses the Miscou Banks, and approaches Uiscou Island, which is 20 M. in circumference and contains about 300 inhab- itants. On its S. shore is a fine and spacious harbor, which is much used as a place of refuge in stormy weather by the American fishing-fleets. Settlements were formed here early in the 17th century by the French, for the purpose of hunting the walrus, or sea-cow. Such an exterminating war was waged upon this valuable aquatic animal that it soon became extinct in the Gulf, and was followed into the Arctic Zone. Within five years a few walruses have been seen in the Gulf, and it is hoped that they may once more enter these waters in droves. At an early date the Jesuits established the mission of St. Charles de Miscou, but the priests were soon killed by the climate, and no impression had been made on the 'Indians. It is claimed that there may still be seen the ruins of the post of the Royal Company of Miucou, which y>aB founded in 1635 for the pursuit offish and walruses, and for a time derived a great revenue from this district. Fortifications were also erected here by M. Denys, Sieur de Fronsac. The steamer alters her course gradually to the W. and passes the fixed red light on Birch Point, and Point Miscou, with its high green knoll. Between Point Miscou and Cape Despair, 26 M. N., is the en- trance to the Bay of Chaleur. The Bay oi Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of Ecketuam Nemaache, signifying "a Sea of Fish," and that name is still applicable, since the bay contains every variety of fish known on these coasts. It is 90 M. long and from 10 to 25 M. wide, and is nearly free from shoals or dangerous reefs. The waters are comparatively tranquil, and the air is clear and bracing and usually free from fog, affording a marked contrast to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have but little velocity. The length of the bay, from Point Miscou to Camp- bellton, is about 110 M. These waters are visited every year b}-^ great American fleets, manned by the hardy seamen of Cape Cod and Glouces- ter, and valuable cargoes of fish are usually carried back to the Massa- ohusetts ports. BATHURST. MmOe IS. 65 u occupied a prom- I been proponed that Dtic steamship line, li&x and New York. iUeisle is 148 M. less L M. nearer Montreal elaborated and pow- satlantic passage to iamers on the Ocean ;rary is as follows: N. F., 1,640 M.j 100 )y railway), 250 M., 250 M., 16^ hours; rk, 171 hours, or 7i i between Cape Race ulf; would divereify save 4-6 days on Liverpool (see maps jy")- tproaches Hiscou about 800 inhab- lich is much used fishing-fleets. the French, for the iting war was waged in the Oulf, and was i have been seen in raters in droves. At i de Miscou, but the been made on the he post of the Royal )f fish and walruees, ■tiflcations were also and passes the h its high green )i. N., is the en- lame of Ecketuam still applicable, ese coasts. It is ee from shoals or il, and the air is marked contrast regular and liave Miscou to Camp- y year by great od and Glouces- sk to the Massa- This bay wu discoTered by Jaques Cartler in the summer of 1636, and, from the flict that the heated season was at its height at that time, he named it La Bait de$ Chaleurs (the Bay of Heats). On the earliest maps it is also called La Bate des Espagnols, indicating that it was frequented by Spanish vessels, probably for the purposes of fishing. In these waters is located the scene of the old legend of the Massachusetts coast, relative to Skipper Ireaon's misdeed, which, with the record of its punishment, has I been commemorated in the poetry of Whittier : — " Small pity for him I — He sailed away From a leaking ship in Chaleur Bay, — Sailed away from a sinking wreck. With his own town's-people on her deck I • Lay by ! lay by ! ' they called to him ; Back he answered, * Sink or swim 1 Brag of your catch of fish again 1 ' And off he sailed through the fog and ndn. Old Floyd Ireson, for nis hard neart. Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead. " Fathoms deep In dark Chaleur That wreck snail lie forevermore. Mother and sister, wife ami maid. Looked from the rocks of Marblehead Over tlie moaning and rainy sea,— Looked for the coming that might not be I What did the winds and the sea-birds say Of the cruel captain who sailed away ? — Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart. Tarred and feathered and carried in a eait By the women of Marblehead." When well within the bay the steamer assumes a course nearly S. W., leaving Miscou and Shippigan Islands astern. The broad Caraqtiette Bay is on the S., and the New-Bandon shores (see page 66) are followed into Nepisiguit Bay. The harbor of Bathurst is entered by a strait two cables [wide, between Alston Point and Carron Point, on the latter of which [there are red and white beacon-lights. Bathurst (Wilbur House), the capital of Gloucester County, has 1,000 [inhabitants, and stands on a peninsula 2^ M. from the bay. Large quan- tities of fish are sent hence to the American cities; and the exportation of [frozen salmon has become an important business. The Intercolonial Rail- way has a station near Bathurst. The beautiful Basin of Bathurst re- ceives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are already well populated [by farmers. Pleasant drives and sailing routes amid lovely scenery abound hereabouts, and give Bathurst a summer-resort air. It is 3 M. to the fine [beach of Alston Point, near which there are farm boarding-houses. The Basin of Bathurst was called by the Indians Winkapiguwiek, or Nepisiguit, [signifying the " Foaming Waters." It was occupied in 1638 by M. Enaud, a wealthy [Basque gentleman, and his retainers, forming a town called St. Pierre. Enaud mar- tried a Mohawk princess, founded mills, and established an extensive fur-trade^ ereet- iing a commodious mansion at Abshaboo (Goal Point), at the mouth of the Nepisiguit. ■But some family troubles ensued, and Madame Enaud's brother slew her husband, jafter which the French settlements were plundered by the Indians, and such of the jlDhabitants as could not escape by way of the sea were massacred. I By 1670 the Chaleur shores were again studded with French hamlets, and occn* |pied by an industrious farming population. In 1692 the Micmacs confederated against them, and, under the command of the sagamore Halion, completely devas- ■ ited the whole district and compelled the settlers to fly to Canada. Thenceforward jfor 74 years this country was unvisited by Europeans. In 1764 a Scotch trading- post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the N. shore of Bathurst harbor, and thence were exported great quantities of furs, moose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, md salmon. In 1776 this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American priva- teers, which also devastated the other shores of Chaleur. The present town was funded in 1818 by Sir Howard Douglas, and was named in honor of the Earl of bathurst. The Nepisig^t River empties into Bathurst harbor, and is famous for [its fine fishing. The riparian owners have sold their fishing rights to Bos- 66 Jtoute 15, CARAQUETTE. I ton people, and to the Nepisiguit Angling Club of St. John, N. B., from whom a fishing permit may be bought. A road ascends for 35 M., passing the Rough Waters, the brilliant rapids of the Pabineau Falls (9 M . up), the dark pools of the Betaboc reach, the Chain of Rocks, and the Narrows. The * Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit are 20 M. above Bathurst, and consist of 4 distinct and step-like cliffs, with a total height of 140 ft. They are at the head of the Narrows, where the river flows for 3-4 M. through a canon between high cliffs of slaty rock. The river boldly takes the leap over this Titanic stairway, and the ensuing roar is deafening, while the base of the cliff is shrouded in white spray. From the profound depths at the foot the river whirls away in a black and foam-flecked course for 2 M. " Good by, lovely Nepisiguit, stream of the beautiful pools, the fisherman's elyslum; farewell to thy merry, noisy current, thy long quiet stretches, thy high bluffs, thy wooded and thy rocky shores. Long may thy mueic lull the innocent angler into day-dreams of happiness. Long may thy romantic scenery charm the eye and gladden the heart of the artist, and welcome the angler to a happy sylvan home." (Roosevelt.) The * Grand Falls of the Tete-A-gouche River are about 8 M. W. of Bathurst, and may be visited by carriage. The river here falls about 80 ft., amid a wild confusion of rocks and cli^. Tri-weekly stages run E. from Bathurst to Salmon Beach, 8 M. ; James- ville, 12; Clifton, 15; New Bandon, 20; Pockshaw, 23; Grand Anse, 28; Upper Caraquette, 36; Lower Caraquette, 43; Shippigan, 60. Fare to Caraquette, $ 3.60. This road follows the shores of the Nepisiguit Bay and the Bay of Chaleur for nearly 30 M. The hamlets of Clifton (small inn) and New Bandon were settled by Irish immigrants, and are now engaged in making grindstones. Pockshaw has an inn and about 600 inhabitants. Grand Anse is an Acadian settlement, and has 700 inhabitants, who are engaged in farming and fishing. Thence the road runs 8 M. S. E. to Upper Caraquette, where there are about 600 Acadlans. Lower Caraquette (two inns) is a French village of 1,500 inhabitants, and is famous for its strong, swift boats and skilful mariners. Caraquette was founded in 1768 by a colony of Bretons, and owed a part of its early growth to intermarriages with the Micmacs. It is a long street of farms in the old Acadian style, and is situated in a fruitful and well-cultivated country. The view ftom the hills over the village, and especially from the still venerated spot where the old chapel stood, is very pleasant, and includes Miscou and Shippigan, the Gaspe ports, and the bold Quebec shores. The Jersey house of Robin & Co. has one of its fishing-establishments here, and does a large business. Caraquette is one of the chief stations of the N. shore fisheries. In the year 1873 the f sh product of the three lower Maritime Provinces amounted to the value of B 9,060,342. Nova Scotia caught $0,577,086 worth of fish; and New Brunswick caught $2,285,660 worth, of which .fl 527,312 were of salmon, $500,306 of herring, 8346,926 of lobsters, $338,699 of codfish, » 108,514 of alewives, $90,065 of hake, $64,396 of pollock, $45,480 of oysters, $41,851 of smelt, and$35,477 of mackerel. The line of the highway, and the noble-viewing railway track (with several sta- tions) follow the coast of the Bay of Chaleur to the N. W. to Medisco : Rochette, 12 M. ; Belledune, 20; Belledune River, 24 ; Armstrong's Brook, 28; River Louison, 33; New Mills, 38 ; River Charlo, 44 ; and Dalhousie, 52. Medisco and Rochette are Vrenoh villages ; the others are of British origin, and none of them have as many DALHOUSIE. Jioute 15. 67 Fohn, N. B., from ends for 35 M., ibineau Falls (9 M. of Rocks, and the VI. above Bathurst, height of 140 ft. flows for 3-4 M. I river boldly takes roar is deafening, From the profound and foam-flecked ;ach, 8 M. ; James- ; Grand Anse, 28 ; gan, 60. Fare to Jepisiguit Bay and ^lifton (small inn) are now engaged t 600 inhabitants, abitants, who are M. S. E. to Upper r CaraqtieUe (two 3us for its strong, as 600 inhabitants. Biany small streamB enter the bay flrom this coast, and the whole district is famous for its fishing and hunting (water-fowl). The line of this sboie is followed by the Intercolonial Railway. Off Bathurst the Bay of Chaleur is over 25 M. wide, and the steamer passes out and takes a course to the N. W., passing the hamlet of Rochette, and soon rounding Belledune Point. The imposing highlands of the Gas- I pesian peninsula are seen on the N. with the peak of Tracadiegash. The passage between Tracadiegash Point and Heron Island is about 7 M. wide; and 6-8 M. beyond the steamer passes Maguacha Point {Magvxicha^ In- [dian for "Always Red") on the r., and enters the Restigouche Harbor. " To the person approaching by steamer from the sea, is presented one of the I most superb and fascinating panoramic views in Canada. The whole region is [ mountsvinous, and almost precipitous enough to be alpine; but its grandeur is derived less from cliffs, chasms, and peaks, than from far-reaching sweeps of out- line, and continually rising domes that mingle with the clouds. On the Gasp6 side precipitous cliffs of brick-red sandstone flank the shore, so lofty that they seem to cast their gloomy shadows half-way across the Bay, and yawning with rifts and gullies, through which fretful torrents tumble into the sea. Behind them the mountains rise and fall in long undulations of ultramarine, and, tow- ering above them all, is the famous peak of Tracadiegash flashing in the sunlight like a pale blue amethyst." (Hallock.) Dalhonsie (Ave hotels) is a village of 600 inhabitants, situated at the mouth of the long estuary of the Restij ouclie, and is the capital of Restigouche County. It faces on the harbor from three sides, and has great facilities for commerce and for handling lumber. The manufacture and exportation of lumber are here carried on on a large scale ; and the town is also famous for its shipments of lobstei's and salmon. The salmon fisheries in this vicinity are of great value and productiveness. The line of the Intercolonial Railway is about 4 M. S. of Dalhousie. The site of this port was called Sickadomec by the Indians. 50 years ago there were but two log-houses here, but the district was soon occupied by hardy Highlanders from Arran, whose new port and metropolis was "located in an alpine wilderness." Directly back of the village is Mt. Dalhousie^ and the harbor is protected by the high shores of Dalhousie Island. Bo- nami Point is at the entrance of the harbor, and has a fixed white light; and Fleurant Point is opposite the town, across the estuary. " The Bay of Chaleur preserves a river-like character for some distance from the I point where the river may strictly be said to terminate, and certainly offers tbo most beautiful scenery to be seen in the Province From Mr. Fraser's to the sea, a distance of some 20 M. by water, or 14 by land, the course of the river is [really beautiful. Swollen to dimensions of majestic breadth, it flows calmly on, lamong picturesque and lofty hills, undisturbed by rapids, and studded with in- I numerable islands covered with the richest growth of elm and maple The I whole of the distance from Campbellton to Dalhousie, a drive of 17 M. along the coast lof the Bay of Chaleur, on an excellent high-road, presents a succession of beautiful iTie\7s across the narrow bay, in which Tracadiegash, one of the highest of the Gasp6 jmountains, always forms a conspicuous object, jutting forward as it does into the {sea below Dalhousie." (Hon. Arthur Gordon) " Nothing can exceed the grandeur and beauty of the approach to the estuary of Ithe llestigouche. The pointed hills in the background, the deep green forest with tits patches of cultivation, and the clear blue of the distant mountains, form a pic- I ture of the most exquisite kind." (Sir R. Bonntcastle. ) TP^ 68 JRoute IS. CAMPBELLTON. ! I ! "The expftnae of three miles acron the month of the Bestigonohe, the dream j alpine land beyond, and the broad plain of the Bay of Chaleur, present one of the moet Hplendid and fascinating panoramic prospects to be found on the continent of America, and has alone rewarded us for the pilgrimage we have made." (Charles Lanman.) Tlie estuary of the Restigouche is 2 - 4 M. wide, and extends from Dal- housie to Campbellton, about 16 M. PoirU a la Garde is 9 M. above Dal- housie on the N. shore, and is a bold perpendicular promontory overlooking the harbor. On this and Battzry Point (the next to the W.) were the extensive French fortifications which were destroyed by Admiral Byron's British squadron in 1780. Several pieces of artillery and other relics have been obtained from the water oflf these points. Battery Point is a rocky promontory 80 ft. high, with a plain on the top, and a deep channel around its shores. Point Pleasant is 4 M. distant, and 1 M. back is a spiral mass of granite 700 ft. high, which is accessible by natural steps on the E. IJ^ M. from this peak is a pretty forest-lake, in which red trout are abundant. 5 M. N. of Point a la Garde is the main peak of the Scaumenac Mts., which attains an altitude of 1,745 ft. Campbellton (three hotels) is situated in a diversified region of hills at the head of deep-water navigation on the Restigouche, which is here 1 M. wide. The Bay-Chaleur steamboats leave here twice weekly, for Paspebiac, Gasp^, etc. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is lo- cated here. The adjacent country is highly picturesque, and is studded with cor "cal hills, the chief of which is Sugar Loaf, 900 ft. high. Mission Point is nearly opposite Campbellton, and is surrounded by fine hill-scenery, which has been likened to that of Wales. The river is rapid off these shores, and abounds in salmon. This place is also known as Point-a-la-Croix, and is one of the chief villages and reser^'ations of the Micmac Indians. It has about 500 inhabitants, with a Catholic church. The Micmac language is said to be a dialect of tlie Huron tongue ; while the Mili- cetes, on the St. John River, speak a dialect of Delaware origin. These two tribes have an annual council at Mission Point, at which delegates from the Penobscot Indians arc in attendance. The Micmac nation occupies the waste places of the Maritime Provinces, from Newfoundland to Gasp^i, and numbers over 6,000 souls. These Indians arc daring and tireless hunters and fiehcrmcn, and lead a life of con- etant roving, gathering annually at the local capitals, — Chapel Island, in Cape Breton; Vonhook Lake, in Nova Scotia; and Mission Point, in Quebec. They are increasing steadily in numbers, and arc becoming more valuable members of the Canadian nation. They have hardly yet recovered from the terrible defeat which was inflicted on them by an invading army of Mohawks, in 1689. The flower of tlio Maritime tribes hastened to the border to repel the enemy, but they were met by the Mohawks in the Uestigoucho country, and were annihilated on the field of battle. The chief of the Micmacs at Mission Point visited Queen Victoria in 1850, and was kindly welcomed and received many presents. When Lord Aylmer, Governor-Gen- eral of Canada, visited Ga8p6, he was waited on by 500 Indians, whose chief made him a long harangue. But the tribe had recently recovered from a wreck (anionR other things) a box of decanter-labels, marked Rum", Brandy, Gin, etc. , and the noble chief, not knowing their purport, had adorned his ears and nose with them, and surrounded his head with u crown of the same materials. When the British officers recognized the familiar names, they burst into such a peal of laughter aa drove the abfonished and incensed chief from their presence forever. RBSTIGOUCHE RIVER. JtouU IS. 69 8 M. above Mission Point is Point au BourdOf the ancient site of La Petite Rochelle, deriving its present name from Capt. bourdo, of tlie French frigate Marchaulty who was Icilled in the battle off this point and was buried here. Fragments of the French vessels, old artillery, camp equip- ments, and shells have been found in great numbers in this vicinity. In 1760 Restigouche was defended by 2 batteries, garrisoned by 260 French regu- lars, 700 Acadians, and 700 Indians; and in the havbor lay the French war-vessels Marchault, 32, Bienfaisant, 22, and Marquis Madoye, 18, with 19 prize-ships which had been captured from the English. The place was attacked by a powerful British tieet, consisting of the Fame, 74, Dorsetshire, Scarbarou^h, Achilles, and Repulse, all under the command of Gommudore John Byron (grandfather of the poet, Lord By- ron). But little resistance was attempted; and the French fleet and batteries sur- rendered to their formi(*".ble antagonist. The captured ships were carried to Louis- bourg, and the batteries and the 200 houses of Restigouche were destroyed. The Bestigonohe Biver is a stately stream which is navigable for 135 M. above Campbellton. It runs through level lands for several miles above its mouth, and then is enclosed between bold and rugged shorer. There are hundreds of low and level islands of a rich and yearly replenished soil; and above the Tomkedgwick are wide belts of intervale. 80 M. from its mouth it receives the waters of the Metapedia River, flowing down from the Metis Mts. ; and 85 M. from the mouth is the confluence of the trout- abounding Upsjjlquitch. 21 M. farther up is the mouth of the Patapedia; and 20 M. beyond this point the Tomkedgwick comes in from the N. W. This system of waters drains over 6,000 square miles of territory, and is connected by portages with the streams which lead into the Bay of Fundy and the River St. Lawrence. Campbellton to the St. Latvrence River. The Metapedia Road leaves the N. shore of the Restigouche a few miles above Campbellton, and strikes through the forest to the N. W. for the St. Lawrence River. This is the route of the new Intercolonial Railway, which passes up through the wilderness to St. Flavie. The distance from Campbellton to St. Flavie is 106 M., and the railway-fare is $ 3. This road leads across the barren highlands of Gasp^, and through one of the most thinly settled portions of Canada. The French hamlet of St. Alexis is near the mouth of the Metapedia River. Metapedia is 15 M. above Campbellton, and is situated amid the pretty scenery at the confluence of the Metapedia and Restigouche Rivers. The salmon-fisheries in this vicinity attract a few enthusiastic sportsmen every year. Near the confluence is the old Fraser mansion, famous among the travellers of earlier days. The Intercolonial Railway crosses the Resti- gouche in this vicinity, and has a station at Metapedia. 60 M. beyond this village is the Metapedia Lake. The Metapedia Lake is 12 M. long by 2 M. wide, and is surrounded by low shores of limestone, above and beyond which are distant ranges of highlands. Its waters abound in tuladi (gray trout), trout, and white-fish, 70 Route 16. ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. and afford good Bporting. The lake contaias a large island, which is a favorite breeding-place of loonst. ' . 8t. Flavie (two inns) is a village of 450 French people, situated on the S. shore of the River St. Lawrence, nnd is the point where the Intercolonial Railway reaches the river and turns to the S. W. towards Quebec. It is distant from Campbellton, 106 M.; from Father Poiut, 15 M.; from Riviere du Loup, 83 M. ; and from Quebec, 210 M. ! !i 11 ' I ! 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. The Intercolonial Railway. This route traverFes the S. E. counties of New Brunswick, pasfes the isthmus at the head of the Bay of Fundy; and after crossing the Cobequid Mts. and rounding the head of Cobequid Bay, runs S. W. to the city of Halifax. It tmveraes some in- teresting districts and ha» a few glimpses of attractive scenery, but the views are generally monotonous and without any striking beauties. During calm nnd pleasant iveatber the traveller will find the Annapolis route (see Route 18) much the pleas- anter way to go from St. John to Halifax. There is no change of cars between St. John and Halifax, and baggage is checked through. During the summer there is a day express-train, leaving St. John at 7 A. M., and duo ac Halifax at 7.40 p. H. ; and a night express, leaving St. John at 8.30 ' P. X., and duo at Halifax at 9 a. u. Pullman-cars have recently been introduced on this line. Stations. — St. John; Moosepath, 3M. ; Brookville, 5; Torrybum,6; River- side,?; Rothesay, 0; QuispiimsiH, 12 ; Nauwigewauk,17 ; Hampton, 22; Pasrekeag, 26; Bloomfield, 27; Norton, 33; Apohaqui, 39; Sussex, 44 ; Plumwesecp, 47; Penob-iquis, 51; Anogance, 60; Petitcodiac, 66; PoUet River, 71; Salisbury, 76; Boundary Greek, 79 ; Moncton, 89 ; Humphrey, 9] ; Painsec Junction, 97 (Dorches- ter Road, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chene, 108) ; Meadow Brook, 101 ; Memram- Amher^^t, 138 ; Nappan, Springs, 164 ; River Philip, xui , xiiumti^uij, j.(»i vjrLiiiivim-, ioi, iTcm,nv/xvu, jiui ; Folly Lake, 191 ; London- derry, 199; Debert, 204; Ishgonish, 208; Truro, 216; Johnfon, 220; Brookfield, 224 ; Polly Bog, 229 ; Stewiacke, 233 ; Shubcnacadie, 238 ; Milford, 242 ; Elmsdale, 247 ; Enfield, 249 ; Grand Lake, 264 ; Wellington, 256 ; Windsor Junction, 264 ; Rocky Lake, 266 ; Bedford, 269 ; Four-Mile House, 273 ; Halifax, 276. Fares from St. John. — To Sussex, 1st class, $ 1.32, — 2d class, 88c. ; to Moncton, Ist class, $2.67, — 2d class, $1.78 ; to Shediac, 1st class, $3, — 2d class, $2 ; to Amhernt, Istclass, !!i;3.78, — 2dcla8S, 82.52; to Truro, Ist class, $5.02,— 2d class, 9 3.35 ; to Halifax; 1st class, $ 6, — 2d clasP, $ 4. Fares from Halifax.— To Truro, 1st class, $1 86, — 2d class, $1.24 ; to Pictou, Ist class, $318, —2d class. $2.12; to Amherst, Ist class, $3.78, — 2d class, $2.62; toSheiiliac, 1st class, $ 4.56, — 2d class, $3.04; to Sussex, 1st class, $5 31,— .2d class, $ 3 54 ; to St. John, 1st class, $ 6, — 2d class, $ 4. ' Way-passengers can estimate their expenses easily on the basis of 3c. per mile for 1st class, ana 2c. per mile for 2d class tickets, which is the tarifif fixed by the Canadian Government for all distances of less than 100 M. on its national rail- ways. On leaving the Valley station, in the city of St. John (see page 19), the train passes out into the Marsh Valley, which is ascended for several miles (see page 22). A short distance beyond Moosepath Park the line crosses Lawlor^s Lake on an embankment which cost heavily, on account of the great depth to which the ballasting sunk. The Kennebecasis Bay is soon seen, on the 1., and is skirted for 6 M., passing the villas of Rothesay (see page 22), and giving pleasant viewb over the broad waters. Quispam- SUSSEX VALE. RouUie. 71 sis station is 8 M. S. of Gondola Point, whence a feny crosses the Ken- nebecasis to the pretty hamlet of Clifton. The narrowing valley is now followed to the N. E., with occasional priimpses of the river on the L Hampton (two hotels) is the shire-town of Kmgs County, whose new pub- lic buildings are seen to the r. of the track. It is a thriving village of re- cent origin, and is visited in summer by the people of St. John, on account of the hill -scenery in the vicinity. St. Mirtin's, or Quaco, ia about 80 M. S. E. , on the Bay of Fundy, and is now connected with Hampton by a new railway. (It is also visited by daily stage from St. John in 32 M., fare'$ 1 60 ; a rugged road.) This is one of the chief ship- building towns in the province, and has over 1,000 inhabitants, with several churches and other public buildings. It was originally settled by the King's Orange Rangers, and has recently become a favorite point for summer excursions from St. John. The hotel accommodation is inferior. S. of the village is the tall lighthouse on Quaco Head, sustaining a revolving white light. The name Qkoco is a contraction of the Indian words Gulwa/igahgee, meaning " the Home of the Sea-cow." The shores about Quaco are bold and picturesque, fronting the Bay with lofty iron-bound clifls, among which are small strips of stony beaches. The strata are highly inclined and in some cases are strangely contorted, while their shelves and crevices are adoraed with pine-trees. Quaco Head is 2 M. from St. Martin's, and is 350 ft. high, surrounded by cliffs of red sandstone 250 ft in height. Ttiis bold promontory rises directly from the sea, and is crowned by forests. The harbor of Quaco is rather pretty, whence it has been likened to the Bay of Naples. Tmey's Lake is about 5 M. from Quaco, on the Loch Lomond road, and is noted for an abundance of trout. 10-12 M. N. of the village is the Mount Theobald Lake, a small round forest-pool in which trout are found in great numbers. Hampton station is 1 M. from the village of Hampton Ferry, and beyond Bloomfield the train reaches Norton, whence a road runs 7 M. N. W. to Springfield, at the head of Belleisle Bay. Apohaqui (Apohaqui Hotel) is a village of 800 inhabitants, on the upper Kennebecasis, and at the mouth of the Mill-stream Valley. The train now reaches Sussex (^Exchange Hotel), a pleasant little vil- lage of 400 inhabitants, whence the famous farm-lands of the Sussex Vale stretch off to the S. E. along the course of Trout Brook. There are sev- eral hamlets (with inns) amid the pleasant rural scenery of the Vale, and good trout-fishing is found on the smaller streams. 8 M. up is the pros- perous settlement of Seeley's Mills, with 650 inhabitants. The Sussex Yale was settled by the military corps of the New Jersey Loyalists (most of whom were Germans), soon after the Revolutionary V7ar, and it ia now occupied, for the most part, by their descendants. "Oood roads, well-executed bridges, cleared land, excellent crops, comfortable houses, high-bred cattle and horses, good conveyances public and private, commodious churches, well-taught schools, well-provided inns, and an intelligent, industrious people, all in the midst of scenery lofty, soft, rounded, beautifully varied with hill and valley, mountain and meadow, forest and flood, have taicen the place of the pathless wilderness, the endlesa trees, the untaught Indian, and the savage moose." (Pbof. Johnston.) Beyond Plumweseep occasional glimpses of the long low ridge of Picca- dilly Mt. are obtained on the r., and Mt. Pisgah is just N. of Penobsquia station (small inn), which is the seat of the New Brunswick Paper Manu- facturing Co. and of several salt-works. Tri-weekly stages run hence 32 M. S. E. to the maritime village of Alma, on the Bay of Fundy, 5 M. N. W. of the shipping-port of Foint Wolf (Stevens's Hotel). 72 noute le. MONCTON. dark gorge below t^ '''"'^'*«"« hedges, and then wh.Vi ™^«^^ •^■?.i'7S="= - -"^ -^ "• - wwoh schoon.r. .„^ -^-J ''"'age of 700 inhnhi^.J*. has 2hofel *®'™^*»"'' of the Beyond S.,isb„„ >t,a^^l"T' '"^ ^^^^ '"'^' *"• Of MvigstioB on the Petilcodiac eivel £«!• ' '""'"»" »' «>e head BACKVILLB. JiouU 16. 73 Valley.. It soon reaches the connected villaireg of Memrameook and 8t, Jottph (three Inns), oconpying the centre of a prosperous farming district which is inhabit by over 1,000 Acadians, — a pious an^l simple-hearted Catholic peasantry, ^ a large portion of whom belong to the prolific fami- lies of Leblanc, Cormier, Gaudct, and Boikiuo. On th<> opposite shore is the College of St. Joseph de Memrameook, vhero about 100 students (mostly from Canada and the United States) are conducted through a high-school curriculum by 12 friars and ecclesiastics. Near the college is the handsome stone Church of St. Joseph de Memrameook. The Valley of the Memrameook, down which the train descends to Dor- chester, possesses one of the most charming landscapes in the country. Two high parallel ridges, wooded and well settled, are seen on either hand, while the valley itself, like the Tantramar Marshes, is a dead level, miles in length, being made up from the sea by tidal deposits, and in June it is an ocean of bright green. Dorchester (Dorchester Hotel) is a pros- perous village of 800 inhabitants, situated near the mouth of the river and among the finest wheat-lands in New Brunswick. Dorchester has 4 churches, th^ public buildings of Westmoreland County, and numerous pleasant residences. On the opposite side of the Memrameook, at Rock- land, are quarries of freestone, several thousand tons of which are shipped annually to Boston and New York. Shipbuilding and shipowning is the leading business. The traveller by train is surprised to see vessels of 1,000 tons, being built in the woods, two miles from apparent water. They are launched at high-tides into a creek at hand. A large and im- posing freestone building on the heights above the town is the Maritime Penitentiary. A ferry crosses Shepody Bay to Hopewell Cape (see page 72) ; and 6-8 M. W. of Dorchester is Belliveau village, nine tenths of whose inhabitants belong to the fiuni- lies of Belliveau, Gautreault, and Slelanqon. This settlement was named in honor of the venerable M. Belliveau, whose long life extended from 17S0 to 1840. In 1776 many of the Acadians of this vicinity joined the New England forces under Col. Eddy, who occupied Sackville and attacked Fort Cumberland (see page 78). The train now runs E. 12 M. from Dorchester to Sackville {Brurmnch House), a rising and prosperous village of about 1,500 inhabitants, situated on a red sandstone slope at the mouth of the Tantramar ^ River, near the head of the Bay of Fundy. It has ship-yards, a stove foundry, a news- paper, and 8 churches. Sackville is the seat of the Mount Allison Wes- leyan College, an institution which was founded by Mr. C. F. Allison, and is conducted by the Wesleyan Conference of Eastern British America. It includes a small college, a theological hall, and academies for boys and girls. A road leads from Sackville S. E. down the rugged headland be- tween Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay, passing the marine hamlets of Woodpoint (5 M.), Rockport (12 M.), and N. Joggins, 14 M. from Sack- ville, and nearthe highlands of Cape Marangouin. ^ Tcmtranar, from the French word IHntamarre, meaning " a thundering notM." 4 74 Route 16. TANTRAMAB MABSH. i! SackTilIe Is the point established for the ontlet of the projected Bnle Terte Ganalf a useAil work 18 M. long, which would allow vessels to pasn from the Bay of Fundy to the Qulf of St. Lawrence without having to round the iron-bound pe- ninsula of Nova Scotia. This canal has been plann^ and desired for 6ver a cen- tury, but nothing has yet been done, except the surveying of the istlunus. Tri- weekly stages run N. E. along the telegraph-road from Sackvllle to Jolicoeur (10 M. ), Baic Vcrtc Road (U M.), Baie Verte (18 M., small inn), and Port Elgin (20 M. ; inn). About 16 M. N. E. of Port Elgin is Ca^e Tormentine, " the great headland which forms the E. extremity of New Brunswick within the Gulf. Indian Point may be said to form the southern, and Cape Jourimain the nortliern points of this headland, which is a place of importance in a nautical point of view, not only from its position, but from its dangerous and extensive shoals." The submarine tele- graph to Prince Edward Island crosses from Cape Jourimain ; and it is from this point that the winter mail-service is conducted, when the mails, passengers, and baggage are subjected to an exciting and perilous trani>it in ice-boats to Cape Trav- erse. Baie Verte is 9 M. wide and 11 M. deep, but affords no good shelter. It re- ceives the Tiguish and Oaspereau Rivers, and at the mouth of the latter are the ancient ruins of Fort Moncton. About 200 students attend the Mount-Allison Educational Institution. Sackville possesses 40 square miles of marsh lands, that produce enormous crops of grasses. Large shipments of hay and cattle are made from here; the latter to the English markets. A railway is now being constructed to Cape Tormentine (38 M. E.), by a local company, and will be open for traffic in 1834. It is intended to connect with the P. E. Island Railway system, andjto open up a splendid agricultural country. The bogs and lakes at the head of the marshes are haunts of snipe and duck, and are a favorite resort of sportsmen. At Sackville the Halifax train crosses the Tantramar River, and runs out over the wide Tantramar Harsh to Aulac, or Cole's Island (stage to Cape Tormentine), near which it crosses the Aulac River. Trains are sometimes blocked in on these plains during the snow-storms of winter, and the passengers are subjected to great hardships. The Missiguash River is next crossed, with the ruins of Fort Beausejour (Cumberland) on the N., and of Fort Beaubassin (Lawrence) on the S. These forts are best visited from Amherst, which is 4-6 M. distant, and is reached after trav- ersing the Missiguash Marrh. The Missiguash River is the boundary between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and Amherst is the first town reached in the latter Province. Fort Lawrence is the W. terminus of the proposed Chignecto Marine Railway, whereby it is intended to carry ships of 1,000 tons with their cargoes between the Straits of Northumberland and the Bay of Fundy, a distance of 17 M. The Canadian Government has subsidized the pro- ject with $150,000 per annum for 25 years, and an English Company began work in 1883. This scheme is a subs»...ute for the Baie Verte Canal, which was abandoned in 1875. Amherst to Halifax, see Route 17. Bd Bale Tert« "ws from the Bay f Jron-bound p^ i for dver a cen- e istiunus. Trf. great headland Indian Point n points of thia ', not only from submarine tele- " 18 from this passengers, and 8 to Cape Trav- shelter. it re- ^tter are the il Institution, uce enormous ie from here; ' constructed be open for nd Railway ie bogs and c, and are a *r, and runs ad (stage to Trains are > of winter, Missiguash berland) on '*ts are best after trav- boundary first town to Marine «^ith their ►f Fundy, the pro- Company aie Verte NOVA SCOTIA. The Province of Nova Scotia is peninsular in location, and is connected with the mainland by an isthmus 8 M. wide. It is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Fundy, the Strait of Northumberland, and the Gulf of St. Law- rence; on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean; and on the W. by the ocean, the Bay of Fundy, and the Province of New Brunswick. Its length, from Cape Canso to Cape St. Mary, is 383 M., and its breadth varies from 50 M. to 104 M. Tlie area of the peninsula is 16,000 square miles. The population is 440,572, of whom 117,487 are Roman -Catholics, 112,000 Pres- byterians, 83,500 Baptists, 60,255 Church of England people, 51,000 Metho- dists, and 68 Unitarians. 405,000 are natives of Nova Scotia, and 21,000 from the British Islands. "Acadie is much warmer in summer and much colder in winter than the countries in Europe lying under the same parallels of latitude" (Southern France, Sardinia, Lombardy, Genoa, Venice, Northern Tur- key, the Crimea, and Circassia). "The spring season is colder and the autumn more agreeable than those on the opposite side of the Atlantic. Its climate is favorable to agriculture, its soil generally fertile. The land is well watered by rivers, brooks, and lakes. The supply of timber for use and for exportation may be considered as inexhaustible. The fish- eries on the coasts are abundant. The harbors are numerous and excel- lent. Wild animals are abundant, among which are remarkable the moose, caribou, and red deer. Wild fowl also are plenty. Extensive tracts of alluvial land of great value are found on the Bay of Fundy. These lands have a natural richness that dispenses with all manuring; all that is wanted to keep them in order is spade-work. As to cereals, — wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, maize, all prosper. The potato, the hop, flax, and hemp are everywhere prolific. The vegetables of the kitchen garden are successfully raised. Of fruit there are many wild kinds, and the apple, pear, plum, and cherry seem almost indigenous. The vine thrives ; good grapes are often raised in the open air. It was said by a French writer that Acadie produced readily everything that grew in Old France, except the olive. " In the peninsula, or Acadie proper, there is an abundance of mineral wealth. Coal is found in Cumberland and Pictou ; iron ore, in Colchester and Annapolis Counties ; gypsum, in Hants ; marble and limestone, in dif- ferent localities; freestone, for building, at Remsheg (Port Wallace) and mmim iirWitTr-i-fiiTiM 76 NOVA SCOTIA. Picton; granite, near Halifax, Shelbame, etc.; brick clay, in the counties of Halifax and Annapolis. The amethysts of Parrsborough and its vicin- ity have been long celebrated, and pearls have been found lately in the Annapolis River. The discovery of gold along the whole Atlantic shore of t^e peninsula of Nova Scotia has taken place since 1860, and it now gives steady remunerative employment to about 800 or 1,000 laborers, with every expectation of its expansion." (Beamish Murdoch.) The pro- duction of gold from the Nova-Scotia mines amounts to $ 400,000 a year. In 1881, Nova Scotia had 440,572 inhabitants, of whom 146,027 are of Scotch origin, 128,986 English, 66,067 Irish, 41,219 French. Of these, 117,487 are Roman Catholics, 112,488 Presbyterians, 83,761 Baptists, 60,255 of the Church of England, and 50,811 Methodists. The territory now occupied by the Maritime Provinces was known for nearly two centuries by the name of Acadie,^ and was the scene of fre- quent wars between Britain and France. Its first discoverers were the Northmen, about the year 1000 a. d., and Sebastian Cabot rediscovered it in 1498. In 1518 and 1598 futile attempts were made by French nobles to found colonies here, and French fishermen, fur-traders, and explorers frequente4 these shores for over a century. In 1605 a settlement was founded at Port Royal, after the discoveries of De Monts and Champlain, but it was broken up in 1618 by the Virginians, who claimed that Acadie belonged to Britain by virtue of Cabot's discovery. In 1621 James I. of England granted to Sir William Alexander the domain called Nova Scotia, including all the lands £. of a line drawn from Passamoquoddy Bay N. to the St. Lawrence; but this claim was renounced in 1632, and the rival French nobles, La Tour and D'Aulnay, commenced their fratri- cidal wars, each striving to be sole lord of Acadie. In 1654 the Province was captured by a force sent out by Cromwell, but the French interest soon regained its former position. The order of the Baronets of Nova Scotia was founded by King Charles I., in 1625, and consisted of 150 well-born gentlemen of Scotland, who re- ceived, with their titles and insignia, grants of 18 square miles each, in the wide domains of Acadia. These manors were to be settled by the baronets at their own expense, and were expected in time to yield handsome revenues. But little was ever accomplished by this order. Meantime Cardinal Richelieu founded and became grand master of a more powerful French association called the Company of New France (1627). It con- plo^"; iS"un-«cadieyor""phice of cranberries"; Kitjioo-acadie, or "place of cnsIeB," and others of similar form. The Milicete tribes pronounced this word " Ouoddy, ' whence Vestumoo-qrioddj/ (Passamoquoddy), meaning "place of pollocks"; Xoodi-quoddy, or " place of seals," etc. When a British officer was descending tne Shubenacadte with a Mlc- mac guide, he inquired how the name originated ; the Indian answered, " Because plenty wild potatoes — legieben — once grew here.^ " Well, * acadie,' F«ul, what doca that mean V* " Meant — where you find 'em," rtyoined the MicniM. NOVA SCOTIA. 77 sisted of 100 mombers, who received Acadia, Quebec, Florida, and New- foundland " in simple bbmage," and had power to erect duchies, marqnis- ates, and seigniories, subject to the royal approval. They allowed f rench Catholics only to settle on these lands, and were protected by national frigates. This order continued for 40 years, and was instrumental in founding numerous villages along the Nova-Scotian coast. In 1690 the New-Englanders overran the Province and seized the for- tresses, but it was restored to France in 1697. In 1703 and 1707 unsuc- cessful expeditions were sent f om Massachusetts against the Acadian strongholds, but they were finally captured in 1710; and in 1713 Nova Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Utrecht. The Prov- ince was kept in a condition of disorder for the next 40 years, by the dis- affection of its French population and the lawlessness of the Indians, and the British fortresses were often menaced and attacked. After the founda- tion of Halifax, in 1749, a slow tide of immigration set in and strengthened the government. In 1765 the French people in the Province (7,000 in num- ber) were suddenly seized and transported to the remote American colo- nies, and the French forts on the Baie-Verte frontier were captured. In 1758 the first House of Assembly met at Halifax, and in 1763 the French power in America was finally and totally crushed. At the close of the Revolution, 20,000 self-exiled Americans settled in Nova Scotia; and in 1784 New Brunswick and Cape Breton were withdrawn and made into separate provinces (Cape Breton was reunited to Nova Scotia in 1820). During the Revolution and the War of 1812 Halifax was the chief station of the British navy, and the shores of the Province were continually harassed by American privateers. In 1864 a convention was held at Charlottetown, P. E. I., to consider measures for forming a federal union of the Maritime Provinces. During the session Canadian delegates were admitted, on the request of the St. Lawrence Provinces ; and a subsequent congress of all the Provinces was held at Quebec, at which the plan of the Dominion of Canada was elabo- rated. It is now thought that this quasi-national government does not fulfil all the original wishes of the seaboard regions, and that it may be well to unite (or reunite) the Maritime Provinces into one powerful province called Acadia, by which the expense of tliree local legislatures and cabi- nets could be saved, their homogeneous commercial interests could be favored by uniform laws, and the populous and wealthy Provinces of Que- bec and Ontario could be balanced in the Dominion Parliament. •' There are perhaps no Provinces in the world possessing finer harbors, or furnishing in greater abundance all the conveniences of life. The climate is quite mild and very healthy, and no lands have been found that are not of surpassing fertility Finally, nowhere are there to be seen forests more beautiful or with wood better fitted for buildings and masts. There 78 Route 17, AMHERST. are in some places copper mines, and in others of coal The fish most commonly caught on the coast are the cod, salfhon, mackerel, herring, sardine,' shad, trout, gotte, gaparot, barbel, sturgeon, goberge, — all fish that can be salted and exported. Seals, walruses, and whales are found in great numbers The rivers, too, are full of fresh-water fish, and the banks teem with countless game." (Father Charlevoix, 1765.) "Herewith I enter the lists as the champion of Nova Scotia Were I to give a first-class certificate of its general character, I would affirm that it yields a greater variety of products for export than any territory on the globe of the same superficial area. This is saying a gi-eat deal. Let us see : she has ice, lumber, ships, salt-fish, salmon and lobsters, coal, iron, gold, copper, plaster, slate, grindstones, fat cattle, wool, potatoes, apples, large game, and furs." (Charles Hallock, 1873.) , 17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. St. John to Amherst, see preceding route. Amherst (Acadia Hotel; Amherst Hotel) is a flourishing town midway betw^een St. John and Halifax (138 M. from each). It is the capital of Cumberland County, Nova Scotia, and is pleasantly situated at the head of the Cumberland Basin, one of the great arms of the Bay of Fundy. It has4,.^00 inhabitants, and is engaged in the lumber trade; while the im- mense area of fertile meadows about the town furnishes profitable employ- ment for a large rural population. Bi-weekly stages run N. E. up the valley of the La Planche to Tidnish (two inns), a village of 300 inhabitants on Baie Verte. Tri-weekly stages run N. E. to Shinimicas and the large farming district called the Head of Amherst, which has over 2,000 in- habitants. The present domain of Nova Scotia was ceded to Great Britnin by the Treaty of Utrecht, in 1713, but its boundaries were not defined, and the French determined to limit it on the N. to the Missiguash River. To this end Gov. La Jonqui^re Pent M. La Come, with 6()0 soldiers, to erect forts on the line of the Missiguash.. The war- rior-priest, the Abb4 Laloutre (Vicar-General of Acadie), led many Acadians to this vicinity, where the flourishing settlement of Beaubassin was founded. At the same time La Come established a chain of military posts from the Bay of Fundy to Boie Verte, the chief fort being located on the present site of Fort Cumberland, and bear- ing the name of Beausejour. The governor of Nova Scotia sent out a British force under Major Lawrence, who captured and destroyed Beaubassin, and erected Fort Lawrence near its site. The Acadians were industriously laboring in the peaceful gursuits of agriculture about Beausejour; a.id the King of France had granted 3,000 livres for the great ahoideau across the Aulac River. The British complained, however, that the priests were endeavoring to array the Acadians against them, and to entice them away from the Nova-Scotian shores. It was resolved that the French forces should be driven from their position, and a powerful expedition was fitted out at Boston. Three frigates and a number of transports conveying the New- England levies sailed up the Bay of Fundy in May, 1756, and debarked a strong FORT CUMBERLAND. Rmde 17, 79 B fish most 1, herring, — all fish are found ih, and the 66.) • . . Were iffirm that 3ry on the !• Let us 3oal, iron, !9, apples, midway apital of the head ndy. It the im- ernploy- . up the abitants he large ,000 in- rcaty of mined to Pent M. The war- >8 to tliis the snnio f to Bnie nd bear- Hh force ted Fort peaceful granted plained, t them, that the ion was he New- i^trong land force at Vort Lawrence. Meantime 1,200 - 1,500 Acadians had been gathered about Beausejour, by the influence of the Abb6 Laloutre, and a nharp skirmish was fought on L'Isle do la Valli^re. On the 4th of June the Anglo-American forces left their camps on the glacis of Fort Lawrence, routed the Acadians at the fords of the Missiguash, and advanced by parallels and siege-lines against the hostile works. When the British batteries reached Butte-a-Charles tho fort was vigorously shelled, and with such diSfistrous effect that it capitulated on June 16th, the garrison march* ing out with arms, baggage, and banners. The French troops were paroled and sent to Louisbourg, and tho Acadians were suffered to remain. Laloutre, escaping to Quebec, there received an ecclesiastical censure, and was afterwards remanded to France. In November, 1776, Col. Eddy led a force of Massachusetts troops, men of Mau- gerville, Acadians, and Indians, against Fort Cumberland. lie first cut out a store- vessel from under the guns of the fort, and captured several detachments of tho gar- rison (the Royal Fencibles). The commandant refused to surrender, and repulsed the Americans in a night-attack, by means of a furious cannonade. Eddy then blockaded the fort for several days, but was finally driven off by tho arrival of a man-of-war from Halifax, bringing a reinforcement of 400 men. The Massachusetts camp was broken up by a sortie, and all its stores wero destroyed. Tho Americans fled to the forest, and fell back on tho St. John River. A large proportion of thd men of Cumberland County went to Maine after this campaign, despairing of the success of Republicanism in the Maritimo Provinces. Among them were a consid- erable number of Acadians. The ruins of Fort Cumberland are a few miles N. "W. of Amherst, beyond the Aulac River, and on a high biuff at the S. end of the Point do Bute range of hills. It was kept in repair by the Imperial Government for many years after its capture, and still presents an appearance of strength and solidity, though it has been long deserted. The remains of the besiegers' parallels aro also vitiblo near tho works. On a bold bluff within cannon-shot, on tlie farther bank of tho Missiguash River, are the scanty remains of the British Fort Lawrence. Nimierous relics of tho old Acs lians may still be traced in this vicinity. 5 M. above the fort, on tho Bale Verto road, is Bloody Bridge, where a British foraging party under Col. Dixon was sur- prised and massacred by the Indians ( under French officers). The * view from the bastions of Fort Cumberland is famous for its extent and beauty. It includes Sackvillo and its colleges on the N. W., Atoherst and tho Nova-Scotian shores on the S. E., and tho bluff and humlct of Fort Lawrence. The wide and blooming expanse of the Tantramar and Missiguash Marshes is over- looked, — the view including over 50,000 acres of rich marine intervale, — and on the S. the eye travels for many leagues down the blue sheet of the Bfiy of Fundy (Cumberland Basin). The great Tantramar Marsh is 3. of Sackville, and is 9 M. long by 4 M. wide, being also traversed by the Taniramar and Aulac Rivers. It is composed of fine silicious matter deposited as marine alluvium, and is called "red marsh," in dis- tinction from the " blue marsh " of the uplands. The low shores around tho head of the Bay of Fundy for a distance of 20 M. have been, reclaimed by the erection of dikes, with aboideaux at the moutlis of tho rivers to exclude the flow of the tides. The land thus gained is very rich, and produces fine crops of English hay, averag- ing from \)i to 2 tons to the acre. Tho land seems inexhaustible, having been tul- tivated now for nearly a century without rotation or fertilization. The Chignecto Peninsula. Mlnudie is 8 M. S. W. of Amherst, with which it is connected by a ferry across the estuaries of the Maccan and Ilebert Rivers. It hits 600 inhabitants, and is near the rich meadows called tho Elysian Fields. In tho vicinity are profitable quarries of grindstones . and thero are shad-fisheries to the S. AV. 6-8 M. S. are the Jogglns Mines, pertaining to the General Mining Association of London ; and the Victoria Mines, on the river Ilebert. Coal has been obtained thence for 25 years. This dis- trict is reached by stages from Maccan station. About the year 1730 tho coal-mines at Chignecto were leased to a Boston company, which was to pay a quit-rent of one penny an acre (on 4,000 acres), and a royalty of 18 pence per chaldron on the coal raised. But this enterprise was broken up in 1732. when the warehouses and ma- chinery were destroyed by the Indians (probably incited, by the French at Louis- bourg). 80 Mmite J7. COBEQUID MTS. The Joffslns Shove extends to the 8. W. along the Chigneeto Channel, and is remarkable for its geological pecoliarities, which hare been visited and stndted by European savans. The local explanation of the name is that the cliCb here '^ Jog in ' and out in an unexampled manner. The height of the clifiis is from 180 to 400 ft. ; and the width of the Chigneeto Basin is from 6to8M. 85-40M. from Amherst is Apple River, a sequestered hamlet on the estuary of the Apple BiTer, amidst fine marine scenery. Apple Head is just W. of this place, and is 418 ft. high, overlooking the Chigneeto Channel and the New-Brunswick shores. There is a fixed white light on its outer point. To the £., Apple River traverses the Caribou Plains, and on its upper waters affords the best of trout-fishing, with an abundance of salmon between February and July. 15-20 M. S. W. of Apple River, by a road which crosses the Cobequid Mts. £. of Cape Chigneeto, is Advocate Harbor (see Route 21)^ "The road fh)m Amherst to Parrsboro' is tedious and uninteresting. In places it is made so straight that you can see ser ;ral miles of it before you, which produces an appearance of interminable length, while the stunted growth of the spruce and birch trees bespeaks a cold, thin soil, and invests the scene with a melancholy and sterile aspect." (JcnoE Haubcrton.) This road is 86 M. long, ascending the val- ley of the Maccan River, and passing the hamlet of Cannan, near the Cobequid Mts. The Halifax train runs S. from Amherst to Maccan (stages to Minudie and Joggins), in the great coal-field of Cumberland County. Daily stages run from Athol station to Parrsboro\ From Athol the line passes to Birring Hill, a coal-mining district, whence a railway has been constructed to Parrs- boro' (see Route 21). 11 M. beyond is the station at River Philip (small hotel), a pleasant stream in which good fishing is found. The salmon are especially abundant during the springtime. Oxford station (two inns) has two small woollen factories, and is 14 M. S. W. of Pugwash, on the Northumberland Strait. A railroad runs hence to the North Shore. The train now passes through extensive forests, in which many sugar- maples are seen, and begins the ascent of the Cobequid Mts., with the Wallace Valley below on the 1. The Cobequid range runs almost due E. and W. from Truro, and is 100 M. long, with an average breadth of 10-12 M. It consists of a succession of rounded hills, 800- 1,000 feet high, cov- ered with tall and luxuriant forests of beech and suga'^-maple. From Thomson, Greenville, and Wentworth stations stages run to Wallace and Pugwash (see page 81), also to Westchester. The railway traverses the hill-country by the Folly Pass, and has its heaviest grades between Folly Lake and Londonderry; where are also 2-3 M. of snow-sheds, to protect the deep cuttings from the drifting in of snow from the hills. Fine views of the Wallace Valley are afforded from the open levels of the line. From Londonderry a railway runs to Acadia Mines, a town of 3,000 inhabitants, with 4 churches. Here are the blast-furnaces and rolling-mill of the Can- ada Steel Co. The ores are magnetic, specular, and hematite, and occur in a wedge-shaped vein 7 M. long and 120 ft. thick. The iron is of fine quality, but is difficult to work. The train descends from the Pass along the line of the Folly River, which it crosses on a bridge 200 feet above the water. Beyond the farming set- tlement of Dehert (stages to Economy and Five Islands) the descent is con- tinued, and occasional views of the Cobequid Bay are given as the train passes across Onslow to Truro. The landscape now becomes more pleas- ing and thickly settled. TRURO. Route 27. 81 pleas- Tmio (Parker Eouse ; Prince of Wales Hotel ; Victoria) is a wealthy and prosperous town of over 4,000 inhabitants, and occupies a pleasant situation 2 M. from the head of Cobequid Bay (an arm of the Basin of Minas). The level site of the town is nearly surrounded by an amphi- theatre of gracefully rounded hills, and on the W. are the old diked meadows of the Acadian era. Truro is the capital of Colchester County and the seat of the Provincial Normal School. Fishing and shipbuilding are carried on here, and there are large and growing manufactures, iur eluding boots and shoes, woollens, and iron- wares. The neighboring county has valuable farming-lands, and contains several iron-mines. Truro was settled at an early date by the Acadian French, and after their expul- sion from Nova Scotia was occupied by Scotch-Irish from New Hampshire. In 1761 a large number of disbanded Irish troops settled here, and engaged in the peaceful pursuits of agriculture. A road runs W. fh>m Truro between the Cobequid Mts. and the Basin of Minaa, passing Masstown (10 M.) ; Folly Village (U M.), at the mouth of the Folly River : Great Village (18 M.), a place of 600 inhabitants ; Highland Village (21 M.) ; Port au Pique (23 M.) ; Bass River (27 M.) ; Upper Economy (28 M.) ; and Five Islands (45 M.)- (See Route 22.) The stages run from Debert station. Stages also run S. W. to Old Bams, on the S. shore of Cobequid Bay, and S. E. 16 M. to Middle Stewiacke, on the Stewiacke River. Truro is the point of departure for the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Bail- yny (see Route 31). The North Shore of Nova Scotia. Stages run from various stations to the North Shore, — ftom Truro to Tatama* gouche, etc. ; from Wentworth for Wallace, Pugwash, Tatamagouche, and New Annan ; from Greenville to Wallace and Wallace Bridge ; from Thomson to Pug- wash, daily. The new railway from Oxford makes the North-Shore ports more accessible than by the old stage-routes. In passing from Truro to Tatamagouche the road crosses the Cobequid Mts. and descends through a thinly settled region to the N. Tatamagouche (two inns) is situated at the head of a large harbor which opens on the Northumberland Strait, and has about 1,600 inhabitants. Some ship- building is done here, and there are freestone quarries in the vicinity. 6 M. to the E. is the large village of Brule Harbor, and 6 M. farther E., also on the Tatamagouche Bay, and at thu mouth of the River John, is the shipbuilding settlement of Eiver John, which was founded by Swiss Protestants in 1763. It is 20 M. from this point to Pictou, and the inter- vening coast is occupied by colonists from the Hebrides. Blair's stage runs W. from Tatamagouche to Wallace (two inns), a town of 2,600 inhabitants, situated on the deep waters of Wallace Harbor (for- merly called Remsheg). Plaster, lime, and freestone are found here in large quantities, and the latter is being quarried by several companies. T 3 Provincial Building at Halifax was made of Wallace stone. To the N. E., beyond the lighthouse on Mullin Point, is the marine hamlet of Fox Harbor, whos ~ 9riginal settlers came from the Hebrides. Pugwash (small inn) is. 10 M. beyond Wallace, and is a flourishing port with about 8,800 4» P 82 Moute m GOLD MINES. i inhabitants. Tlie liarbor, though difficult of access, is deep and well shel- tered, and has several ship-yards on its shores. The chief exports of Pug- wash are deals and lumber, freestone, lime, and plaster. The Halifax train runs S. from Truro to Brcokjieldj whence hay and lumber are exported, and then to Stewiacke, which is 3 M. from the pretty farming village of the same name, on the Stewiaclce River. Tiie next sta- tion is Shubenacadie (International Hotel), a busy little manufacturing village on the river of the same name. Daily stages descend the valley of the Shubenacadie for 18 M. to the N. to the town of Maitland (two inns), at the mouth of the river (see Route 22). Stages also run S. £. (Tuesday and Thursday) to Gay's River (7 M.), Oay's River Road (14 M ), Middle Musquodoboit (21 M.), Upper Musquodoboit (25 M.)) Melrose, Ouysborough, and Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso. Gold was discovered near Gay's River in 1862, in the cenglomeratu rock of the great ridge called the Boar's Back, which extends for 60 M. through the inland towns. It nearly resembles the alluvial de- posits found In the placer-diggings of California, and the stream-washings have yielded as high as an ounce per man daily. Scientific mining was begun in 1868, but has given only light returns. Middle Musquodoboit is a &rming-town with about 1,000 inhabitants, situated on the S. of the Boar's Back ridge, 42 M. from Hali&z. Upper Musquodoboit is about the same size, and beyond that point the stages travienle a dreary and thinly settled district for several leagues, to Melrose. The Halifax train runs S. W. to Elmsdale, a village near the Shuben- acadie River, engaged in making leather and carriages. Enfield is the seat of a large pottery. 7 M. N. W. are the Renfrew GoM-MineSy where gold-bearing quartz was discovered in 11861. Much money and labor were at first wasted by inexperienced miners, but of late years the lodes have been worlced systematically, and are considered among the most valuable in Nova Scotia. The average yield is 16 pennyweights of gold to a ton of quartz, and in 1869 these mines yielded 3,097 ounces of the precious metal, valued at $ 61,490. The Oldham Mines are 8^ M. S. of Enfield, and are in a deep narrow valley, along whose bottom shafts have been sunle to reach the auriferous quartz. Between 1861 and 1869, 9,254 ounces of gold were sent from the Oldham diggings, and it is thought that yet richer lodes may be found at a greater depth. Soon after leaving Enfield the train passes along the S. E. shore of Grand Lake, which is 8 M. long by 1-2 M. wide. It crosses the outlet stream, runs around Long Lake, and intersects the Windsor Branch Railway at Windsor Junction. Station, Eocky Lake^ on the lake of the same name, where large quantities of ice are cut by the Nova-Scotia Ice Company, for exportation to the United States. 3 M. N. E. of this station are the Waver- ley Gold-Mines, where the gold is found in barrel-quartz, so named because it appears in cylindrical masses like barrels laid side by side, or like a corduroy-road. At its first discovery all the floating population of Halifax flocked out here, but they failed to better their condition, and the total yield between 1861 and 1869 was only about 1,600 ounces. Waverley vil- lage is picturesquely situated in a narrow valley between two lakes, and has about 600 inhabitants. ANNAPOLIS ROUTE. BauU 18, 83 After crossing Bocky Lake the train soon reaches the shores of ^''^ beautiful Bedford Baan^ and follows their graceful curves for sevc. A miles. On the 1. are fine views of the villas and hills beyond the blue water. Halifax, see page 93. 18. St John to Hali&x, by the Annapolis Valley. This is the pleasantest route, during calm weather, between the chief cities of the Maritime Provinces. After a passage of about 4 hours in the steamer, across the Bay of Fundy, the pretty scenery of the Annapolis Basin is traversed, and at Annapolis the passenger takes the train of the Windsor & Annapolis Railway, which runs through to Halifax. The line traverses a comparatively rich and picturesque coun- try, abounding in historic and poetic associations of the deepest interest. The distance between St. John and Halifax by this route is 86 M. less than by the Intercolonial Kail way ; but the time on both routes is about the same on eMscount of the delay in crossing the Bay of Fundy. The Annapolis-Halifox line is only prac« ticable 4 times a week. The steamer leaves St. John at 8 A. M., on Monday, Wednes- day, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the exprpcs trains which leave Annapolis at 2 P. M and arrive at Hali&x at about 8 p. m. Express wains leave Hali&x at 8.15 A. u. on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the steamer which leaves Annapolis at 2.35 P. m. and arrives at St. John at 8 P. M. Fares. — St. John to Halifax, 1st class, $5; 2d class, $3.50; to Digby, $160; to Annapolis $ 2. Passengers for Halifax dine on the steamer and take tea at Kent- Tille (10 minutes) ; those for St. John dine at Kentville (18 minutes) and take tea on the boat. There are two through trains each way daily between Halifax and Annapolis. Special rates are made for excursions (limited time) by the agents of this route, Small & Hathaway, 39 Dock St., St John. Distances. — St. John to Digby, 43 M.; Annapolis, 61 ; Round Hill, 68 ; Bridge- town, 75; Paradise, 80; Lawrencetown, 83; Middleton, 89; Wilmot, 92; Kingston, 96; Morden Road, lOl ; Aylesford, 103 ; Berwick, 108; Waterville, 111 ; Cambridge, 113; Coldbrook, 115; Kentville, 120; Port Williams, 125; Wolfville, 127; Grand Pr6, 130 ; Horton Landing, 131 ; Avonport, 133 ; Hantsport, 138 ; Mount Denson, 140; Falmouth, 143; WindHor, 145; Three-Mile Plains, 148 ; Newport, 151 ; Ellers- house, ^54; Stillwater, 157 ; Mount Uniacke, 164 ; Beaver Bank, l74 ; Windsor Junc- tion, 17V; Rocky Lake, 179 ; Bedford, 182; Four-Mile House, 188 ; Halifax, 190. The fteamer Empress leaves her wharf at Seed's Point, St. John, and soon passes the heights and spires of Carleton on the r. and the lighthouse on Partridge Island on the 1., beyond which Mispeck Point is seen. Cape Spencer is then opened to the E., on the New Brunswick coast, and the steamer sweeps out into the open bay. In ordinary summer weather the bay is quiet, except for a light tidal swell, and will not affect the traveller. Soon after pafsing Partridge Island, the dark ridge of the North Mt. is seen in advance, cleft by the gap called the *Digfby Gut, which, in the earlier days, was known as St. George's Channel. The course is laid straight for this pass, and the steamer runs in by Prim Point, with its fog- whistle and fixed light (visible 13 M.), and enters the tide-swept defile, with bold and mountainous bluffs rising on either side. The shores on the 1. are 610 feet high, and on the r. 400-560 ft., between which the tide ruslies with a velocity of 5 knots an hour, making broad and powerful swirls and eddies over 12 - 25 fathoms of water. After running for about 2 M. through this passage, the steamer enters the Annapolis Basin, and runs S. by £. 3 M. to Digby. 84 Route 18, ANNAPOLIS BASIN. "The white houses of Digby, seattend oTer the downs like a flook of washed sheep, bad a somewhat chilly aspect, it la true, and made us long for the sun on them. But as 1 think of it now, I prefer to have the town and the pretty hillsides that stand about the basin in the light we saw tbem ; and especially do I like to recall the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the tide and so blown by the wind that the puHsengers who came out on it, with their tossing drapery, brought to mind the windy Dutch harbors that Backhiiysen painted." (Warnlr's Bculdeck.) Bigby {Daley's Hotel) is a maritime village of about 1,800 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 30 shops, situated on the S. W. shore of the Annapolis Basin, and engaged in shipbuilding and the fish- eries of haddock, mackerel, and herring. The Digby herring are famous for their delicacj', and are known in the Provinces as "Digby chickens." Porpoises, also, are caught in the swift currents of the Digby Gut. Quite recently Digby has become well known as a summer-resort. The fogs which hang like a pall over the Bay of Fundy are not encountered here-, and the lovely scenery hereabouts, and boating, bathing, and fishing afford sufficient amusement. The comfortable Myrtle House, near the water, amid three acres of fruit-orchards, is crowded all summer by Americans and Canadians. There is a steamship line from Boston to Digby direct A French fort' stood here in the early days; and in 1783 the township was granted to the ex- American Loyalists. Stages run to Annapolis, and a railroad to Yarmouth. " That portion of Acadia at which the voyagers had now arrived is di^itingnished by the beauty of its scenery. The coast along which they had previously fiaUed is comparatively rugjred. But on entering the Basin the scene is changed. ui.M.y of the peculiar elements which lend a charm to the Acadian landscape being foucd in har- monious combination. Towards the east, islands repose on the bosom of the deep, their forms being vividly mirrored on its placid surface, and from which canoes may be seen darting towards the mainland, with their paddles fltfally flashing in the sunlight. In the diBtancp are graceful, undulating hills, thickly c)ad, from base to summit, with birch, maple, hemlock, and spruce woods, constituting an admirable background to the whole scene." {C AMPBi^hh'' a History of N^ova Scotia.) The noble * Annapolis Basin gradually decreases from a width of nearly b M. to 1 M., and is hemmed in between the converging ridges of the North Mt. and the South Mt. The former range has a height of 6 - 700 ft., and is bold and mountainous in its outlines. The South Mt. is from 300 to 500 ft. high, and its lines of ascent are more gradual. The North Mt. was once insulated, and the tides flowed through the whole valley, until a shoal at the confluence of the Blomidon and Digby currents became a bar, and this in time became drj'^ land and a water-shed. Between the head of Argyle Bay and the slopes of the Annapolis Basin are the rarely visited and sequestered hill-ranges called the Blue Moun- tahis. " The Indians are said to have formerly resorted periodically to groves among these wilds, which they considered as consecrated places, in order to ofier sacrifices to their gods." " We wera sailing along the graeefhlly moulded and tree-covered hills of the An- napolis Basin, and up the mildly pictureFque river of that name, and we were about to enter what the provinciuls all enthusiastically call the Garden of Nova Scotia. .... It 1.4, — this valley of Annapolis, — in the belief of provincials, the most beau- tiiUl and blooming place in the world, with a soil and climate kind to the husband- ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. JtouUlS 85 , a land of lUr meadowa, onhaidB, and TlnM. . . .'.It wu not untU w« had traTelled over the rest of the country that we saw the appropriateneu of the designation. The explanation is, that not so much is required of a garden here af In some other parts of the world." Soon after leaving Digby, Bear Island is seen in-shore on the r., in front of the little port of Bear River (inn), which has a foundry, tanneries, and i»sw-mills. Iron and gold are found in the vicinity, and lumber and cord- wood are exported hence to the United States and the West Indies. A few miles beyond, and also on the S. shore, is the hamlet of Clementsport (two inns), where large iron- works were formerly established, in connection with the ore-beds to the S. Roads lead thence to the S. W. in 10- 12 M. to the romantic districts of the Blue Mts. and the upper Liverpool Lakes (see Route 27), at whose entrance is the rural village of ClemetUsvcUe. 8-10 M. bc3'^ond Digby the steamer passes Goat Island, of which Lescarbot writes, in Lea Muaea de la Nouvelle France (1609) : ** Adieu mon doux plaisir fonteines et rulsseaux, Qui Ics vaux et les inonts arrousez de vos eauz. Fourra Richel fourrov-je t'uublier, belle ile for^tiere I nonneur de ce Ueu et de cette rivi£re ?** In 1707 the British frigate Annibal and two brigautines were sailing up the Basin to attack Annapoli.<), when they met such a sharp volley from the lie aux Ghivres that they were forced to retire in confusion. The French name of the island was AnglK cized by translation. On the point near this island was the first settlement of the French in Nova Scotia. A fort was erected here by the Scottish pioneers, and was restored to Frarce by the Treaty of St. Germain, after which it was garrisoned by French troops. In 1827 a stone block was found on the point, inscribed with a square apd compass and the date " 1606." In May, 1782, there was a naval combat off Goat Island, in which an American war-brig of 8 guns wa« captured by H. M. 8. Buckram. Above the island the Basin is about 1 M. wide, and is bordered by farm- streets. To the N. £., across a low alluvial point, are seen the spires and ramparts of Annapolis Royal, where the steamer soon reaches her wharf, after passing under the massive walls of the old fortress. There are sev- eral small inns here, the Dominion, Commercial, American, Foster, Per- kins, Hillsdale, Granville, etc., and Mrs. Grassie's and Mrs. Crozier's summer boarding-houses. Their rates are $5-6 a week, and board can be obtained on adjacent farms for $3-5 a week. There are weekly steamers between Boston and Annapolis. Stages run from Annapolis to Clements- port, 8 J M. ; Victoria Bridge, 13^; Digby, 20 J; railway thence to Yar- mouth, 87^. Stages also run S. E. 78 M. to Liverpool (see Route 27). Annapolis Boyal, the capital of Annapolis County, is a maritime and agricultural village, situated at the head of the Annapolis Basin, and con- tains 1,200 inhabitants. It is frequented by summer visitors on account of its pleasant environs and tempered sea-air, and the opportunities for salt- water fishing in the Basin, and trouting among the hills to the S. The chief object of interest to the passing traveller is the * old fortress which fronts the Basin and covers 28 acres with its ramparts and outworks. It is entered by the way of the fields opposite Perkins's Hotel. The works are disarmed, and have remained unoccupied for many years. One of the 86 Jti>ute 18, ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. last oocnpations was that of the Rifle Brigade, in 1850; bat the post was abandoned soon after, on account of the numerous and successful deser- tions which thinned tlie ranks of the garrison. But when Canada passed into a state of semi-independence in 1867, this fortress was one of the few domains reserved to the British Crown. The inner fort is entered by an ancient archway which fronts towards the Basin, giving passage to the parade-ground, on which are the quaint old English barraclcs, with steep Toofs and great chimneys. In the S. E. bastion is the magazine, with a vaulted roof of masonry, near which are the foundations of the French barracks. From the parapet on this side are overlooked the landward out- works and the lines of the old Hessian and Waldecker settlements towards Clementsport. On the hillside beyond the marsh is seen an ancient house of the era of the French occupation, the only one now standing in the val- ley. In the bastion towards the river is a vaulted room, whence a passage leads down to the French garrison-wharf; but the arched way has fallen in, and the wharf is now but a shapeless pile of stones. The * view from this angle of the works is very beautiful, including the villages of Annapo- lis Royal and Granville, the sombre heights of the North and South Mts., and the Basin W many miles, with Goat Island in the distance. The road which leads by the fortress passes the old garrison cemetery, St. Luke's Church, the court-house and county academy, and many quaint and antiquated mansions. A ferry crosses to Granville, a little shipbuilding village, with 700 inhabitants. A road leads hence across the North Mt. in 4-5 M., to Hillsbum and Leitchjield. " Annapolis Royal is a picturesque little town, almost surrounded by water, at the head of tlie Annapolis Basin. On both sides of the Basin rise mountains whose iMtckground of vegetation lends a peculiar charm to the landscape. Fruit of almost every kind common to this continent may be found here in its season. East- ward you may proceed by railway to the scene of Longfellow's great poem of ' Evange- line ' through a perpetual scene of orchards, dike lands, and villages, skirted on both sides by dreamy mountains, till you reach the grand expanse of the Baain of Minas, with Blomidon, the abode of sea-nymphs, holding eternal guard in the distance. Annapolis Royal and Granville Ferry offer special sanitary 'privileges to the weary, the invalid, and the pleasure-seeker ; bathing, trouting, hunting, boat- ing, picnicking, are all enjoyed in turn. From the mountain slopes, whither parties go for a day's enjoyment, the prospect is unrivalled, and the air invigorating. The thermometer rarely rises above 90 degrees in the day, while the night air is cool enough for blankets and light overcoats. A moonUght excursion on the Basin is something to remember for a lifetime." The Basin of Annapolis waa first entered in 1604 by De Monts's fleet, exploring the shores of Acadie ; and the beauty of the scene so impressed the Baron de Pou- trincourt that he secured a grant here, and named it Port Royal. After the failure of the colony at St. Croix Island, the people moved to this point, bringing all their stores and supplies, and settled on the N. side of the river. In July, 1606, Lescarbot and another company of Frenchmen joined the new settlement, and conducted improvements of the land, while Poutrincourt and Ghamplain explored the Massachusetts coast. 400 Indians had been gathered by the sagamore Member- tou in a stockaded village near the fort, and all went on well and favorably until De Monts's grant was annulled by the King of France, and then the colony was aban- doned. ' ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. Route 18. 87 Tonr TMun later the brate Baron de Pontrlnconrt left his estates In OhampafiM, with a deep cano of suppliea, descended the rirers Aube and Seine, and sailed out from Dieppe (Feb. 26, iHlO) On arriving at Port Royal, everything was found as when left ; and the work of proselyting the Indians was at once entered on. Mem> bertou and his tribe were converted, baptized, and feasted, amid salutes from the cannon and the chanting of the Te Deum ; and numerous other forest-clans soon followed the same courxc. Poutrincourt was a GalKoan Catliolic, and hated the Jesuits, but vras forced to talce out two of them to hut new domain. They assumed a high authority there, but were stcrrly rebuked by the liaron, who naid, " It is my part to rule you on earth, and yours only to guide me to heaven." They threatened to lay Port Royal under interdict ; and Poutrincourt's son and succesoor so greatly resented this that they left the colony on a mission ship sent out by the Marchioness de QuercbeviUe, and founded 8t. Sauveur, on the island of Mount Desert. In 1618, after the Vir- ginians under Oapt. Argall had destroyed St. Sauveur, the vengcAil Jesuits piloted their fleet to Port Royal, which was completely demolished. Poutrincourt came out in 1614 only to find his colony in ruins, and the remnant of the people wandering in the forest ; and wsa so disheartened that he retu*7icd to France, where he was killed, the next year, in the battle of Mery-sur-Seino. It is a memorable &ct that these attacks of the Virginians on Mount Desert and Port Royal were the very commencement of the wars between Great Britain and France in North America, " which scarcely ever entirely ceased until, at the cost of infinite blood and treasure, France was stripped of all her possessions in America by the peace of 1763." Between 1620 and 1630 an ephemeral Scottish colony was located at Port Royal, and was succeeded by the French. In 1628 the place was captured by Sir David Kirk, with an English fleet, and was left in ruins. In 1684 it wus granted to Claude de Razilly, " Seigneur de lta>.illy, des £aux Mesles et Cuon, en Anjou," who after- wards became commandant of Oleron and vice-admiral of trance. He was a bold naval officer, related to 0'.irdinal Richelieu ; and his brother Isaac commanded at I^have (see Route 26). Uis lieutenants were D'Aulnay Ghurnisay and Cliarles de la Tour, and he transferred all his Acadian estates to the former, in 164", after wUch began the feudal wars between those two nobles (see page 19). Several fleets sailed from Port Royal to attack La Tour, at St. John ; and a Boston fleet, in alliance with La Tour, assailed Port Royal. In 1654 the town was under the rule of Emmanuel le Borgne, a merchant of La Rochelle, who had succeeded to W * 'ilnay's estates, by the aid of C^sar, Duke of Venddme, on account of debts due to him from the Acadian lord. Later in the same year the fortress was taken by a fleet sent out by Oliver Cromwell, but the in- habitants of the valley were not disturbed. By the census of 1671 there were 361 souls at Port Royal, with over 1,000 head of live-stock and 864 acres of culti^ ated land In 1684 the fishing-fleet of the port was captured by English " corsairs ' ; and in 1686 there were 622 souls in the town. In 1690 the fort contained 18 caimon and 86 soldiers, and was takeu and pillaged by Sir William Phipps, who sailed from Boston with 3 war-vessels and TCiO men. A few months later it was plundered by corsairs from the ^^est Indies, and it. 1691 the Chevalier de Villcbon took the fort in the name of Fr. nee. Baron La Hontan wrote : " Port Royal, the capital, or the only city of Acadia, is in effect no more than a little paltry town that is somewhat enlarged since the war broke out in 1689 by the accession of the inhabitants that lived near Boston, the metropolitan of New England. It subsists upon the traffic of the skins which the savages bring thither to truck for European goods." In the summer of 1707 the fortress was attacked by 2 regiments and a small fleet, from Boston, and siege operations were commenced. An attempt at storming the works by night was frustrated by M. de Subercase's vigilance and the brisk fire of the French artillery, and the besiegers were finally forced to retire with severe loss. A few weeks later a second expedition from Massa- chusetts attacked the works, but after a siege of 15 days their camps were stormed - by the Baron de St. Castin and the Chevalier de la Boularderie, and the feebly led Americans were driven on board their ships. Sul)erca8e then enlarged the fortress, made arrangements to run off slaves from Boston, and planned to capture Rhode Island, " which is inhabited by rich Quakers, and u the resort of rascals and even pirates." In the autumn of 1710 the fHmtes Dragon, Chester ^ i/'almouth, LeosU^ffe, Fevers- Aorn, &ar^ and Province^ with 20 transports, left Boston and sailed to Port BoyaL 88 Route 18. THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. Them mm 2 rqifanents firom Masaaehtuetts, 2 from the rest of New England, and 1 of Bojral Marines. After the erection of mortar-batterieo, several days were spent in bombarding the fort from the fleet and the siege-lines, but the fire from thfe ram- parts was kept up steadily until the garrison were on the verge of starvation ; Suber- oase then surrendered his forces (2^ men), who were shipped off to France, and Gen. Nicholson changed the name of Port Royal to Annafous Botal, in honor of Queen Anne, then sovereign of Great Britain. In 1711, 80 New-Englanders from the garrison were cut to pieces at Bloody Brook, 12 M. up the river, and the fortress wa« then invested by the Acadians and Micmacs. For nearly 40 years afterwards Annapolis was almost always in a state of siege, being menaced fh>m time to time by the disaffected Acadians and their savage allies. In 1744 the non-combatants were sent to Boston for safety, and in July of tbaf year the fort was beleaguered by a force of fanatic Catholics under the Abbe Laloutre. Five companies of Massachusetts troops soon joined the garrison, and the besiegers were reinforced by French regulars from Louisbourg. The siege was continued for nearly three months, but Gov. Mascarene showed a bold front, and provisions and men came in from Boston. The town was destroyed by the artillery of the fort and by Incendiary sorties, since it served to shelter the hostile riflemen. Soon after Duvlvier and Laloutre had retired, two French frigates entered the Basin and captured some ships of Massachusetts, but left four days before Tyng's Boston squadron arrived. A year later, De Ramezay menaced the fort with 700 men, but was easily beaten off by the garrison, aided by the frigates Chester, 60, and Shirley, 20, which were lying in the Basin. After the deportation of the Acadians, Annapolis remained in peace until 1781, when two American war-vessels ascended the Basin by night, surprised and captured the fortress and spiked its gnns, and plundered every house in the town, after locking the citizens up in the old block-house. The Annapolis VaUey. This pretty district has suffered, like the St. John River, from the absurdly ex- travagant descriptions of its local admirers, and its depreciation by Mr. Warner (see page 84} expresses the natural reaction which must be felt by travellers (unless they axe from Newfoundland or Labrador) after comparing the actual valley with these high-flown panegyrics. A recent Provincial writer says : '' The route of the 'Wind- sor &, Annapolis Railway lies through a magnificent farming-country whose beauty is 80 great that we exhaust the English language of its ac^ctlves, and are compelled to revert to the quaint old French which was spoken by the early settlers of this Ckirden of Canada, in our efforts to describe it." In point of fkct the Annapolis region is &r inferior either in beauty or fertility to the valleys of the Nashua, the Schuylkill, the Shenandoah, and scores of other familiar streams which have been described without effusion and without impressing the service of alien languages. The Editor walked through a considerable portion of this valley, in the process of a closer analysis of its features, and found a tranquil and commonplace farming- district, devoid of salient points of interest, and occupied by an insufficient popula- tion, among whose hamlets he found unvarying and honest hospitality and kind- ness. It is a peaceful rural land, hemmed in between high and monotonous ridges, blooming during its brief summer, and will afford a series of pretty views and pleas- ing suggestions to the traveller whoso expectations have not been raised beyond bounds by the exaggerated praises of well-meaning, but injudicious authors. It Is cladmed that the apples of the Annapolis Yalley are the best in America, and £0,000 barrels are exported yearly, — many of which are sold in the cities of Great Britain. The chief productions of the district are hay, cheese, and live-stock, a large proportion of which is exported. The Halifax train runs out from Annapolis over the lowlands, and takes a course to the N. E., near the old highway. Bridgetown (3 small hotels) is the first important station, and is 14 M. from Annapolis, at the head of navigation on the river. It has about 1,600 inhabitants, 4 churches, and a weekly newspaper, and is situated in a district of apple-orchards and rich pastures. Some manufacturing is done on the water-power of WILMOT SPRINGS, MauUlS. 89 a large takes hotels) head irches, chards ret of the Annapolis River and its branches; and the surrounding country is well populated, and is reputed to be one of the healthiest districts in Nova Scotia. To the S. is Bloody Brook, where a detachment of New-£ngland troops was massacred by the French and Indians ; and roads lead up over the South Mt. into the interior, dotted with small hamlets, inhabited by the descendants of old soldiers. Many large lakes and streams filled wiUi trout, and good hunting-grounds are in this region. Paradise (small inn) is a pleasantly situated village of about 400 inhab- itants, with several saw and grist mills and tanneries. The principal exports are lumber and cheese, though there are also large deposits of mei^ chantable granite in the vicinity. A road crosses the North Mt. to Port Williams^ 7 M. distant, a fishing-village of about 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fundy. The coast is illuminated here, at night, by two white lights. Farther down the shore is the hamlet of St. Croix Cove, Latorencetown is a prosperous village of about 600 inhabitants, whence much lumber is exported. In 1754, 20,000 acres in this vicinity were granted to 20 gentlemen, who named their new domain in honor of Gov. Lawrence. 8 M. distant, on the summit of the North Mt., is the bamlet of Havelock, beyond which is the farming settlement of Mt. ffanley, near the Bay of Fundy. New Albany (small inn) is a forest-village 8-10 M. S. E. of Lawrencetown ; and about 10 M. farther into the great central wilderness is the farming district of Springfield, beyond the South Mt. Middleton (Middleton Hotel), a small village near the old iron-mines on the South Mt., is the valley terminus of the Nictaux & Atlantic R. R. A few miles S. are the Nictaux Falls, a pretty cascade on a small mountain- stream. 1^ M. from Middleton is the hamlet of Lower Middleton, sur- rounded by orchards. Wilmot station is } M. from Farmington (two inns), a pleasant little Presbyterian village. Margaretsville (Harris's Hotel) is 7 M. distant, across the North Mt., and is a shipbuilding and fish- ing settlement of 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fundy. Fruit and lumber are exported hence to the United States. The 'Wilmot Snrines are about 8 M. from Farmington, and hare, for many years, enjoyed a local celebrity for their efiBcacy in healing cutaneous disetues and wounds Hall's Hotel is at the Springs, with pleasant grounds and a goodly pat- ronage. The springs are situated in a grove of tell trees near the road, filling two large basins; and the water is cold, clear, and nearly tasteless. The principal Ingredients are, in each gallon : 78 grains of sulphuric acid, 64^ grains of lime, 6 grains of soda and potash, and 8 grains of magnesia. Many visitors pass the summer at Wilmot every year, on account of the benefits resulting firom the use of these waters. Kingston station is IJ M. from Kingston, 2 M. from Melvern Square, 2J M. from Tremont, and 4 M. from Prince William Street, rural hamlets in the valley. From Morden Road station a highway runs N. W. 7 M. acrosstheNorthMt. to the little port of Morden, or French Cross (Bal- comb'H Hotel), on the Bay of Fundy. Station, Ayletford (Patterson's Hotel) a small hamlet from which aroad runs S. E. to Factory Dale (4 M.), ft man- 90 Route 18, KENTVILLB. 4 ufacturing hamlet whence the valley is overlooked; and the farming towns of Jacksonville and Morristoton are 6 - 7 M. away, on the top of the South Mt. ILake George {Halfs tnn) i8l2M. difltant, whence the great forefit-bonnd chain of the Ayle^ford Lakes may be vibited. The chief of these if* Kempt Lake, ^hich is about 7 M. long. A road runs S. from tbe Lake George settlement by Lake Paul and Owl Lake to Falkland (32 M. from Aylesford), which is on the great Lake 8herbrooke, in Lunenburg County, near the head-waters of the Gold River. *' The great Aylesford sand-plain folks call it, in a ginral way, the Dcvirs Ooose Pasture. It is 18 M. long and 7 M. wide ; it ain't just drifting sands, but it 's all but that, it 's so barren. It 's uneven, or wavy, like tbe swell of the sea in a calm, and is covered with short, thin, dry, coarse grafs, and dotted here and there with a half-starved birch and a stunted misshapen spruce. It is jest about aa silent at\d lonesome and desolate a place as you would wish to see All that country thereabouts, as I have heard tell when I was a boy, was once owned by the Lord, the king, and the devil. The glebe-lands belonged to the first, the ungranted wil- derness-lands to the second, and the sand-plain fell to the share of the last (and people do say the old gentleman was rather done in the division, but tbat is neither here nor there), and so it ia called to this day the DeviVs Goose Pasture.^'* Station, Bendck (two inns), a prosperous village of 400 inhabitants, where the manufacture of shoes is carried on. A road leads to the N. W. 7 M. across Pleasant Valley and the Black Rock Mt. to Harborville, a ship- building village on the Bay of Fundy, whence large quantities of cordwood and potatoes are shipped to the United States. Several miles farther up the bay-shore is the village of Canada Creek, near which is a lighthouse. At Berwick the line enters the * Cornwallis Valley, which is shorter but much more picturesque than that of Annapolis. Following the course of the Cornwallis River, the line approaches the base of the South Mt., while the North Mt. trends away to the N. E. at an ever-increasing angle. Beyond the rural stations of Waterville, Cambridge, and Coldbrook, the train reaches Kentville ( Webster House ; restaurant in the station), the headquarters of the railway and the capital of Kings County. This town has 3,000 inhabitants, 5 churches, and a weekly newspaper; and there are several mills and quarries in the vicinity. Raw umber and manganese have been found here. The roads to the N. across the mountain lead to the maritime hamlets of Hall's Harbor (10 M.)) Chipman's Brook (14 M.), and Baxter's Harbor (12 M.); also to Sheffield Mills (7 M.), Canning (8 M.), Steam Mills (2 M.), and Billtown (6 M.). KenU)Ule to Chester. The Royal mail-stages leave Kentville at 6 a. m. on Monday and Thursday, reach- ing Chester in the afternoon. The return trip is made on Tuesday and Friday. The distance between Kentville and Chester is 46 M., and the intervening country is wild and pictureiaque. After passing the South Mt. by the Mill-Brook Vallty, at 8-10 M. from Kentville, the road runs near tbe Gaspereaux Lake, a beautiful forest-loch about 6 M. long, with many ialandn and highly diversified shores. This water is connected by short straits with the island-studded Two-Mile Lake and the Four^Mile Lake, near which are the romantic Aylesford Lakes. £. and S. £■ of the Gaspereaux Lake are the trackless solitudes of the far-spreading Blue Mts., amid whose recesses are the lakelets where the Gold River takes its rise. At 20 M. Arom Kentville the stage enters the Episcopal village of New Ross (Turner's Hotel), at the crossing of the Dalhousie Road from Halifks to Annapolis. From this point the stage descends the valley of the Gh>ld River to Chester (see Route 24). '; I. I ) n 'r WINDSOR. EouU 18. 91 reach- The n*ry la autiful This Dd the £. of 20 M. lotel). point i The Halifax train runs E. from Eentville down the Gomwallis Valley to Port WUliama, which is 1^ M. from the village of that name, whence daily stages run to Canning. The next station is Wolfville, from which the Land of Evangeline may most easily be visited (see Route 22). The buildings of Acadia College are seen on the hkU to the r. of the track. The Halifax train runs out from Wolfville with the wide expanse of the reclaimed meadows on the 1., beyond which is Cape Blomidon, looming leagues away. In a few minutes the train reaches Grand Fr^, and as it slows up before stopping, the tree is seen (on the 1. about 300 ft. from the track) which marks the site of the ancient Acadian chapel. Beyond Hor- ion Landing the Gaspereaux River is crossed, and the line begins to swing around toward the S. E. At Avonport the line reaches the broad Avon River, and runs along its I. bank to Hantsport (two inns). This is a large manufacturing and shipbuilding village, where numerous vessels are owned. In the vicinity are productive quarries of freestone. Mount Denaon station is near the hill who«e off-look Judge Haliburtou so highly ex*ols : — " I have seen at different periods of my i5fe a good deal of Europe ieind much of America ; but I have seldom seen anything to be compared with the view of the Basin of Minas and its adjacent landscape, as it presents itself to you on your ascent of Mount Denson He who travels on this continent, and does not spend a few days on the shores of this beautiful and extraordinary baein, may be said to have missed one of the greatest attractions on this side of the water." The next station is Falmouth, in a region which abounds in gypsum. Back toward Central Falmouth there are prolific orchards of apples. The line now crosses the Avon River on the most costly bridge in the Mari- time Provinces, over the singular tides of this system of waters. The traveller who passes from Annapolis to Windsor at the hours of low-tide will sympathize with the author of " Baddeck," who says that the Avon " would have been a charming river if there had been a drop of water in it. I never knew before how much water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. I should think it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs ilrst one way and then the other and then vanishes altogether." The remarkable tides of this river are also described by Mr. Noble, as follows : The tide was out, " leaving miles of black " (red) '* river-bottom entirely bare, with only a small stream coursing through in a serpentine manner. A line of blue water was visible on the northern horizon. After an absence of an hour or so, I loitered back, when, to my surprise, there was a river like the Hudson at Gatskill, running up with a powerful current. The high wharf, upon which but a short time before I had stood and surveyed the black, unsightly fields of mud, was now up to its mid- dle in the turbid and whirling stream." Windsor ( Clifton House, large and comfortable ; Avon House ; Victoria) is a cultured and prosperous town of 3,019 inhabitants, occupying the promontory at the intersection of the Avon and St. Croix Rivers. The adjacent districts of Falmouth and St. Croix have about 6,000 inhabitants. There are in Windsor 7 churches, 2 banks, an iron foundry, furniture factories, shipyards, etc. The chief exportation of Windsor is plaster of Paris, or gypsum, large quantities of which are used in the United 92 - RmtUlS, WINDSOR. States for fertilizing the soil and calcining purposes. Near the end of the railway \)ridge, on a projecting hill, is the Clifton mansion, formerly the home of the genial and witty Thomas C. Haliburton (bom at Windsor in 1797, 13 years a Judge in Nova Scotia, 6 years an M. P. at London, and died in 1865), the author of " Sam Slick, The Clockmaker,^' etc. On the knoll over the village are the crambling block-houses and earth- works of Fort Edward, whence is obtained a pretty view down the widen- ing Avon and out over the distant Basin of Minas. About 1 M. from the station, on a hill which overlooks the fine valley of the Avon and its uncleared mountain-rim, are the plain buildings of King's College, the oldest college now existing in Canada. It WW founded in 1788, and chartered by King George TIT. in 1802. It !s under the patron8!?e of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and is well endowed with Bcholar- shipa, honors, etc. Its officers must belons; to the Church of England, though there are no tests for admission of students. Many of the most influential and distinguished British-Americans have been educated here, and " Kingsmen " are found in all parts of Canada. The college has 6 professors and about 40 students. Thet« is also a divinity school In connection with the college. The Province of Nova Scotia is occupied by 86 Christian sects. Of its inhabitants. 65,124 belong to the Anglican Church, and are ministered to by a lord bishop, i canons, 8 ruml deans, and 68 clergymen. There are 102,001 Catholics, 108,589 Pres- byt.'riana, 78{490 Baptists, 41,751 Methodists, and 4,958 Lutherans (census of 1871). The site of Windsor was called by the Indians Pisiquidy " the Junction of the Waters," and the adjacent lowlands were settled at an early day by the French, who raised large quantities of wheat and exported it to Boston. The French settled in this vicinity about the middle of the 17th century, but retired &r into the interior at the time of the British conquest. Gov. Lawrence issued a proclamation inviting settlers to come in Arom New England, stating that " 100,000 acres of land had been cultivated and had borne wheat, rye, barley, oats, hemp, flax, etc., for the last cen- tury without failure." The deserted French hamlets were occupied in 1759-60 by fiimilies from Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and their descendants still possess the land. The Rhode-Islanders erected the township of Newport, Massachusetts formed Falmouth, and Windsor was granted to British officers and was fortified iu 1769. The broad rich marshes near Windsor had attracted a large Acadian popula> tion, and here was their principal church, whose site is still venerated by the Mio- mac Indians. " I cannot recall a prettier village than this. If you doubt my word, conie and see it. Toi>der wu discern a portion of the Basin of Minas ; around us are the rich meadows of Nora Scotia. Intellect has here placed a crowning college upon a hill ; opulence has surrounded it with picturesque villas." (Cozzens.) Another writer has spoken with enthusiasm of Windsor's " wide and beautiful environing mead- ows and the hanging-gardens of i^ountain-forests on the S. and W." The Halifax train sweeps along the St. Croix River around Windsor, passing (on the r.) the dark buildings of King's College, on a hilltop, with the new chapel in front of their. line. The character of the landscape be- gins to change, and to present a striking contrast with the agricultural regions just traversed. " Indeed, if a man can live on rocks, like a goat, he may settle anywhere between Windsor and Halifax. With the exception of a wild pond or two. we saw nothing but rocks and stunted firs for forty-five miles, a monotony unrelievHi by one pic- turesaue feature. Then we longed for the ' Garden of Nova Scotia,' a id understood what Is meant by the name." ( Vr AaMsa's Baddeck.) Beyond Three-Mile Plains the train reaches J\r«i^por<, near which large end of the rmerly the Windsor in mdon, and ' etc. and earth- the widen- L M. from on and its )llege the It la under ith Bcholar- ind, though uential and innen " are 10 students. nhabitanta. •d bi8hop, 4 98,689 Pres. us of 1871). ition of the 'rench, who h settled In the interior on Inviting id had been he last cen- 1759-60 by till possess ssachusetts fortified iu ian popula- >y the Mio- , conits and tre the rich pon a hill ; t.her writer ling mead- Windsor, top, with Bcape be- 'icttltural re between w nothing >y one pio- nderstood ich large ^ : t. A^iftMNM BtOUkttt I. IhrtakM Mui^^m, H i U tm rnm imfi, 4. Onui Mlm$t, c.% CI. At. AS. C. tl At. A|. A t. Ai. At. Al It. ^Mnit , It. S». iMh-t, , 14. A. Aafr, 15. Si. Cmtf*,-^ 16. A MaUknift, 17. CMlwtf ^ SMra/ lUtrt, 19* nfw CMtIMh^ to. (MmMW GftMNrA^ tl. iUHBiiy Barrtdti, • tt. mmum Mmtdt, . qui 8to| frol BrJ far! Chi froi lur Fi\ HALIFAX. RauU 19, 93 > /' i I . .1 1 i ■ quantities of gypaxan are quarried from the veins in the soft marly sand- stone. Nearly 8,000 tons of this fine fibrous mineral are shipped yearly from Newport to the United States. To the N. are the villages of Brooklyn (5 M.), devoted to manufac» ..i.ng; Scotch Village (9 M.), a farming settlement; and Burlington, on the Kennetcook River (10 M.). Chivirie and Walton, 20-22 M. N., on the Basin of Minas, are accessible from Newport by a tri-weekly conveyance. The train passes on to EUerS' liouse (small inn), a hamlet clustered around a furniture-factory and lumber-mills. 2^ M. distant is the settlement at the foot of the Ardoiae Mt., which is the highest point of land in the Province, and overlooks Falmouth, Windsor, and the Basin of Minas. The train now crosses the Five-Island Lake, skirts Uniacke Lake, with Mt. Uniacke on the N., and stops at the Mt. Uniacke station (small inn). The Mt. Uniacke estate and mansion were fouided more than 50 years ago by Richard John Uniacke, then Attorney-General of Nova Scotia. The house occupies a picturesque position between two rock-bound lakes, and the domain has a hard- working tenantry. The Mt. Uniacke Gnld-Mines are 8 M. from the sta- tion, and were opened in 1865. In 1869 the mines yielded $37,840, or $ 345 to each workman, being 6 ounces and 4 pennyweights from each ton of ore. For the next 10 M.ithe line traverses an irredeemable wil- derness, and then reaches Beaver Bank^ whence lumber and slate are exported. At Windsor Junotion the train runs on to the rails of the Intercolonial Railway (see page 82), which it follows to Halifax. 19. Halifax. Arrival from the Sea. — Cape Sambro is usually seen first bj the passenger on tlie tronsatlautic steamers, and Halifax Harbor is soon entered between the light- houses on Chebucto Head and Devil Island. Tbe^e lights are 7K 1^1 • apart, Ghebucto (on tlie 1.) having a revolving Ught visible for 18 M., and Devil Island a fijced red light on a brown tower. On the W. shore the fishing-hamlets of Portuguese Cove, Bear Cove, and Herring Cove are passed in succession. 4 M. S. E. of Herring Gove is the dangerous Thrumcap Shoal, where H. B. M. frigate La Tribune^ 44, was wrecked in 1797, and nearly all her people were lost, partly by reason of an absurd stretch of naval punctilio. Between this shoal and McNab's Island on one side, and the mainland on the other, is the long and narrow strait called the Eastern Passage. IiV 1862 the Confederate cruiser Tallahassee was blockaded in Halifax Harbor by a squadron of United-States frigates. The shallow and tortuous Eastern Passage was not watched, since nothing but small fishing-crafb had ever traversed it, and it was considered impassable for a steamer like the TallaJiassee. But Capt. Wood took ad- vantage of the high tide, on a dark night, and crept cautiously out behind McNab's Island. By daylight he was far out of sight of the outwitted blockading fleet. 2 M. firom Herring Cove the steamer passes Salisbury Head, and rnas between the Martello Tower and lighthouse on Maugher Beach (r. side) and the York Redoubt (1>^ M. apart) Near the Redoubt is a Catholic church, and a little above is the hamlet of Falkland, with its Episcopal church, beyond which the N. W. Arm opens on the 1. Passing between the batteries on McNab's Island and Fort Ogilvie, on Point Pleasant, the steamship soon runs by Fort Clarence and the fortress on Oeorje Island, and reaches her whiwrf at Halifax, with the town of Dartmouth and the g^reat Insane Asylum on the opposite shore. Arrival by Railway.— The railway has been prolonged, by a system of costly works, to a terminus within the city, where a large and handsome ter- miaal station has been erected, with all modem conyeniences. It Is not Ihr ftom the Queen's Dock Yard. 94 Route 19. HALIFAX. Hotels. ~ The •HidUhx, 107 Hollls St., 92 a daj; the •Intemfttloiial, on Hoi- Ufl St.. 81.76-2 a day; Carlton Houm, 67 Argyle St., amall but arUtouratie ; Royal. ArgyU St.: Manaion Houee, 140 Barriogton St.; Wayerley, Pleawnt St.; Albion, SackTiUe St. ; and numerous small second-class houses. UalUkx needs a flnt-clafw modern hotel. ,. , ^ ^ x,. t Restaurants. — Ices, pastry, and confectionery may bo obtained at the shops on Barrlngton and Hollis Sts. American beverages are compounded at the bar in the Halifoz House. ... BeadinB-Iiooms. — The Young Men's Christian Association, corner of OranTille and Prince Sts. ; the Provincial Library, in 'the Parliament Buildings ; and in the two chief hotels. The Halifax Library ia at 197 Uoliis St. ; and the Citizens' Free Library (founded by Chief Justice Sir WUliam Young) is at 266 Bar- rlngton St., and in open from 3 to 6 P. m. The Merchants' Exchange and Reading- Room is at 158 Hollis St. The Church of England Institute (Library and Gymna- sium) is in Granville St. Clubs. — The Halifkx Club has ah elegant house at 165 Hollis St.; the Catho- lic Young Men's Club, Starr St. (open from 2 to 10 p. M.); the Highland, North British, St. George's, Charitable Irish, and Germania Societies. The Royal Halifax Yacht Club has a house at Richmond, with billiard and reading rooms, and a line of piers and boat-houses for the vessels of their fleet. Amasements.— There is a neat, comfortable, and fairly appointed theatre, called the Academy of Music ; and several Lecture Halls. During the winter some fine skating is enjoyed at the Rink, in the Public Gardens. Good games of cricket and indifferent base-ball playing may be seen on the Garrison Cricket-Ground. But Halifax is chiefly famous for the interest it takes in trials of skill between yachtsmen and, oarsmen, and exciting aquatic contests occur frequently duxiog the summer. ' Omnibuses traverse the chief streets throughout the city, at a low ratj of &re. The horse-car tracks have been taken up. There are also a great numbe. of oar* riages of various kinds, but their fares are not low. Railways. — The Intercolonial, running to St John, N. B., in 276 M. (see Routes 16 and 17), and to Pictou in 113 M. (see Route 31) ; the Windsor & Annapolis, prolonged by a steamship connection to St. John (see Route 18). Steamships. — The Allan Line, fortniKhtly, for St. John's .„^„„.j^„„j, ^„^ „„. „„uu „j N. F., Queens- , ^ , altimore. Fares, Halifax to Liverpool, 9 75 and $ 25 ; to Norfolk or Baltimore, $ 20 and $ 12. The Anchor Line, for St. John's, N. F., and Glasgow. The Royal Mail Steamers Alpha and Delta (Cunard Line) leave Halifax for Bermuda and St. Thomas every fourth Monday, connecting at Rt. Thomas with steamships for all parts of the West Indies, Panama, and the Spanidi Main. The Carroll and Worcester leave Esson's Wharf for Boston on alternate Satur- days. Fare, S8; with state-room, $9. The Carroll or the Worcester leaves Esson's Wharf every Monday noon for the 8trait of Canso and Charlottetown, P. E. I. Fares to Charlottetown, cabin, 9 4 ; cabin state-room, $6: saloon state-room, $6. The George Shattuck leaves Cor- betts' Wharf, fortnightly, for N. Sydney, C. B , and St. Pierre, Miq. (see Route 60). The steamship Virgo leaves for Sydney, C. 3., and St. John's, N. F., every alternate Tuesday (see Routes 36 and 51). Fares, to Sydney, $8; to St. John's, 9 15. The passenger steamers Alhambra and Canima, cf the Cromwell Line, ply between Halifhx and New York at intervals of about 10 days. The Micmac cruises in the harbor during the summer, running from the South Ferry Wharf to McNab's Island and up the N. W. Arm (fare, 25c.). The steam- fbrry from Dartmouth has its point of departure near the foot of George St. The Ooliah makes firequent trips up the Bedford Basin. Stages leave Halifax daily for Chester, Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelbume, and Yarmouth (see Route 24), departing at 6 a. M Stages leave at 6 A. M., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday for MuRquodoboit Harbor, Jeddore, Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, Beaver Harbor, and Salmon River (see Route 29). Halifax, the capital of the Pro- ince of Nova Scotia, and the chief naval station of the British Empi.c in the Western Hemisphere, occupies a commanding position on one of the finest harbors of the Atlantic coast. It HALIFAX. ItouU 19. 95 has 36,100 inhabitants (census of 1881), with 7 banks, 5 daily papers and several tri-weekiies and weeklies, and 26 churches (7 Anglican, 7 Presby- terian, 3 each of Catholic, Wesleyan, and Baptist). The city occupies a picturesque position on the E. slope of the peninsula (of 3,000 acres), be- tween the bay, the N. W. Arm, and the Bedford Basin; and looks out upon a noble harbor, deep, completely sheltered, easily accessible, and large enough " to contain all the navies of Europe." In 1869 the imports amounted to $7,202,504, and the exports to $3,169,548; and in 1870 the assessed valuation of the city was $16,753,812. The city has a copious supply of water, which is drawn from the Chain Lakes, about 12 M. dis- tant, and so high above Halifax that it can force jets over the highest houses by its own pressure. There is a fire-alarm telegraph, and an effi- cient fire department, with several steam-engines. The city lies along the shore of the harbor for 2^ M., and is about | M. wide. Its plan is regular, and some of the business streets are well built; but the general character of the houses is that of poor construction and dingy colors. It has, however, been much bettered of late years, owing to the improvements after two great fires, and to the wealth which flowed in during the American civil war, and hardly deserves the severe criticism of a recent traveller: " Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, for- lorn town, and this in spite of its magnificent situation.*' HoUis and Granville Streets, in the vicinity of the Parliament Buildings, contain the most attractive shops and the headquarters of the great import- ing houses. Many of the buildings in this section are of solid and elegant construction, though the prevalence of dark colors gives a sombre hue to the street lines. The Parliament Building occupies the square between Hollis, George, Granville, and Prince Streets, and is surrounded with trees. In 1880 this plain structure of gray stone was called the finest building in North America, but American architecture has advanced very far since that time. Opposite the Granville-St. entrance is the Library, occupying a very cosey little hall, and supplied with British and Canadian works on law, history, and science. In the N. part of the building is the plain and commodious hall .of the House of Assembly; and on the S. is the chamber of the Legislative Council, in which are some fine portraits. On the r. ar xi 1. of the vice-regal throne are full-length * portraits of King George 1*1. and Queen Charlotte; on the N. wall are Chief Justice Blowers, King William IV., Judge Haliburton (see page 92), * Sir Thomas Strange (by Benjamin West), and Sir Brenton Haliburton. Opposite the throne are Nova Scotia's military heroes, Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) and Sir W. Fenwick Williams of Kars. On the S. wall are full-length por- traits of King George II. and Queen Caroline. The new Frovinoial Building is E. of the Parliament Building, on Hollis St., and is 140 by 70 ft. in area. It is built of brown freestone, in 96 Jtoute 19, HALIFAX. an ornate style of architecture, and cost S 120,000. The lower story is occupied by the Post-Oifice; and the third floor contains the * Provinolal MuMuai, which exhibits preserved birds, animals, reptiles, fossils, min- erals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold ores of Nova Scotia. There are also numerous Indian relics, curiosities from Japan and China, naval models, and old portraits. Opposite the en- trance is a gilt pyramid, which represents the amount of gold produced in the Province between 1862 and 1870,^6 tons, 8 cwt., valued at $ 8,873,431. Most of this gold has been coined at the U. S. Mint in Phila- delphia, and is purer and finer than that of California and Montana. On the comer of Granville and Prince Streets, near the Parliament Building, is the new and stately stone building of the Young Men's Chris- tian Association, with its reading-rooms and other departments. The massive brownstone house of the Halifax Club is to the S., on Hollis St. The * Citadel covers the summit of the hill upon whose slopes the city is built, and is 250 ft. above the level of the sea. Visitors are admitted and allowed to pass around the ramparts under escort of a soldier, after regis- tering their names at the gate. The attendant soldier will point out all the objects of* interest, and (if he be an artillerist) will give instructive discourse on the armament, though his language may sometimes become hopelessly technical. The Citadel is a fortress of the first class, according to the standards of the old school ; though of late years the government has bestowed much attention on the works at George's Island, which are more important in a naval point of view. The works were commenced by Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, and the &ther of Queen Victoria, who was then Commander of the Forces on this station. He em- ployed in the service a large number of the Maroons, who had been conquered by the British, and were banished from Jamaica, and subsequently deported to Sierra Leone. Changes and additions. have been made nearly every year since, until the present immense stronghold has been completed. It is separated firom the glacis by a deep moat, over which are the guns on the numerous bastions. The massive ma- ponry of the walls seems to defy assault, and the extensive barracks within are said to bo bomb-proof. During the years 18(3-74 the artillery has been changed, and the previous mixed armament has been to a great degree replaced by muzzle-load- ing Woolwich guns of heavy calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot with points of chilled iron. The visitor is allowed to walk around the circuit of the ram- parts, and this elevated station affords a broad view on either side. Perhaps the best prospect is that from the S. E. bastion, overlooking the crowded city on the slopes below; the narrow harbor with its shipping; Dartmouth, sweeping up to- ward Bedford Basin; Fort Clarence, below Dartmouth, with its dark casemates; McNab's Island, crowned with batteries and shutting in the Eastern Passage ; the outer harbor, with its fortified points, and the ocean beyond. Near the portal of the citadel is an outer battery of antiquated guns ; and at the S. end of the glacis are the cxteuEive barracks of the Royid Artillery. Other mili- tary quarters are seen on the opposite side of the Citadel. "But if you cast your eyes over yonder magnificent bay, where vessels bearing flags of all nations are at anchor, and then let your vision sweep pa£t and over the isl^ds to the outlets beyond, where the quiet ocean lies, bordered with fog-banks tliat loom ominously at the boundary-line of the horizon, you will see a picture of marvellous beauty ; for the coast scenery here transcends our own sea-shores, both in color and outline. And behind us again stretch large green plains, dotted with cottages, and bounded with undulating hills, with now and then glimpses of blue pe In HALIFAX.' Jtoute IB. 97 irater ; and m ire w»lk down Citadel Hill, m Ibel lialf reconciled to Halllkx, ill qualDt mouldy old gables, its soldiers and sailon, its fogs, cabs, penny and YiMit- penny tokens, and all its little, odd, outlandish pocullarities." (CfozzENS.) Lower Water St. borders the harbor-front, and gives access to the wharves of the various steamship and packet lines. It runs from the Ordnance Yard, at the foot of Buckingham St., to the Government reser- vation near George Island, and presents a remarkably dingy and dilapi> dated appearance throughout its entire length. The Qaeen's Dockyard occupies ^ M. of the shore of the upper harbor, and is surrounded on the landward side by a high stone-wall. It contains the usual paraphernalia of a first-class navy-yard, — storehouses, machine- shops, docks, arsenals, a hospital, and a line of officers* quarters. It is much used by the frigates of the British navy, both to repair and to refit, and the visitor may generally see here two or three vessels of Her Britan- nic Majesty. The Dockyard was founded in 1758, and received great additions (including the {>reseDt v .1*) in 1770. During the two great wars with the United States it waa nvaluable as a station for the royal navy, whose fleets thence di^scended upon the American coast. Many trophies of the war of 1812 were kept here (as similar marine mementos of another nation are kept in the Brooklyn and Washington Navy-Yards), including the figure-bead of the unfortunate American frigate, the Chesapeake. which was captured in 1813, off Boston Harbor, by the British frigate Shannon, ami. was brought into Halifax with great rejoicing. It is, perhaps, in kindly recognition of the new fraternity of the Anglo-American nations, that the Imperial Qovemment has lately caused these invidious emblems of strife to be removed. The Dockyard is not open to the public, but the superintendent will generally admit visitors upon presentation of their cards. In the N. W. part of the city, near the foot of Citadel Hill, is the Military Hospital, before which is the Garrison Chapel, a plain wooden building on whose inner walls are many mural tablets in memory of offi- cers who have died on this station. Beyond this point, Brunswick St. runs N. W. by the Church of the Redeemer to St. George's Churchy a sin- gular wooden building of a circular form. At the comer of Brunswick and Gerrish Sts. is a cemetery, in which stands a quaint little church dating from 1761, havuig been erected by one of the first companies of German immigrants. On Gottingen St. is the Church of St. Joseph, where the Catholic seamen of the fleet attend mass on Sunday at 9^ a. m. Near this building is the Orphan Asylum of the Sisters of Charity. Farther N. on Gottingen St. is the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, beyond which, on North St., is the Roman Catliolic College of St. Mary, at Belle Air. This institution is under the charge of the Christian Brothers, and has the same line of studies as an American high-school. Farther out on Gottingen St. is the Admiralty House, the official residence of the com- mander-in-chief of the North-American and West-Indian Squadrons, be- yond which are the Wellington Barracks, over the Richmond railway- station. From the plateau on which the secluded Admiralty House is 5 a 98 lUntte 19. •HALIFAX. located, the visitor can look down on the Queen*s Dockyard, the fleet, and the inner harbor. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary is on the Spring Garden Road, near its intersection with Pleasant St. It has recently been much enlarged and improved by the addition of an elegant granite facade and spire, in florid Gothic architecture. The Cathedral fronts on an old and honored cemetery, on whose E. side is a finely conceived * monument to Welsford and Parker, the Nova-Scotian heroes of the Crimean War. (Miyor Welsford was killed in the storming of the Redan.) It consists of a small but massive arch of brownstone, standing on a broad granite base, and supporting a statue of the British lion. Opposite the cemetery, on Pleasant St., is the Presbyterian Church of St. Matthew (under the care of the Rev. Mr. Laing). Above the Cathedral, on the Spring Garden Road, is the handsome building of the Court House, well situated amid open grounds, near the jail and the capacious drill-sheds. The Horticultural Gardens are on the Spring Garden Road, and are well arranged and cared for. They were purchased by the city in September, 1874, and were then united with the Public Gardens, which are just S. of Citadel Hill. Military music is given here by the garrison bands during the summer. Near the Gardens is the Convent of the Sacred Heart, a stately building situated in pleasant grounds. The Protestant Cemetery adjoins the Horticultural Gardens on the W., and contains a great number of monuments. In the same quarter of the city, below Morris St., are the new Blind Asylum, the City Hospital, and till lately the immense Poor Asylum, completed at a cost of $ 260,000, and recently burned. The Oovernment Honse is a short distance beyond St. Matthew's Ghnrch, on Pleasant St., and is the ojf^cial residence of the Lieutenant- CU)vemor of Nova Scotia. It is a plain and massive rid stone building, with projecting wings, and is nearly surrounded by trees. Farther S , on Morris St., is the Anglican Cathedral of St. Luke, a plain and homely wooden building. Beyond this point are the pretty wooden churches and villas which extend toward Point Pleasant. At the foot of South St. are the Ordnance Grounds, from whose wharf the lower harbor is overlooked. About 1,800 ft. distant ia George's Island, on which is a powerful] modem fortress, bearing a heavy armament from which immense chilled- Iron or steel-pointed shot could be hurled against a hostile fleet. This position ia the key to the harbor, and converges its fire with that of Fort Clarence, a low but massive casemated work, 1 M. S. E. on the Dartmouth shore, whose guns could sweep the Eastern Passage and the inner harbor. The passage from the outer har- bor is defended b^ the York Redoubt, near Sandwich Point, by a new line of bat- teries on the N. W. shore of McNab's Island, and by the forts on Point Pleasant. At the comer of Prince and Barrington Sts. is St. Paul's Episcopal Church, a plain and spacious old building (built in 1750), with numerous mural tablets on the inner walls. Dalhousie College and University is at the comer of Duke and Barrington Sts., and was founded by the Enrl of Dalhousie while he was Govemor>General of Canada. Its design was to HALIFAX. Jioute 19. 99 provide means for the liberal education of young men who did not wish to go (or were debarred from going) to King's College, at Windsor. There are 7 professors in the academic department, and the medical school has 18 professors. In the sammer of 1746 the great French Armada sailed fW)m Brest to conquer the British North-American coast from Virginia to Newfoundland. It was commanded by the Duke d'AnTillc,and was composed of the line-of-battle ships Trithnt, Ardent, Mars, and Alcide, 64 guns each ; the Northumberland, Carillon, Tigre, Leofiard, and Renomm6e,^ guns each; the Diaviant, 50; Megire, 30; Argonaute,^; Prince ' d? Orange, 26 ; the Par/ait, Mercure, Palme, Girous, Perle, and 22 other frigates, with 30 transports, carrying an army of 3,150 soldiers. D'Anville's orders were to *' occupy Louisbourg, to reduce Nova Scotia, to destroy Boston, and ravage the coast of New England." Tlie Armada was dispersed, however, by a succession of unparalleled and disastrous storms, and D'Anviilo reached Ghebucto Bay (Halifax) on Sept. 10, with only 2 ships of the line and a few transports. Six days later the unfortunate Duke died of apoplexy, induced by grief and distress on account of the disasters which his enterprise had suffered. The Tice-Admiral D'Estoumelle com- mitted suicide a few days later. Some other vessels now arrived here, and immense barracks were erected along the Bedford Basin. 1,200 men had died from scurvy on the outward voyage, and the camps were soon turned into hospitals. Over 1,000 French soldiers and 2-300 Micmac Indians died around the Basin and were buried near its quiet waters. Oct. 13, the French fleet, numbering 5 ships of the line and 25 frigates and transports, sailed from Halifax, intending to attack Annapolis Royal ; but another terrible storm arose, while the vessels were off Cape Sable, and scattered the remains of the Armada in zach wide confusion that they were obliged to retire from the American waters. The Indians called Halifax harbr^ Chebucto, meaning "the chief haven," and the French named it Lm Bale Saine, ''on account of the salubrity of the air.*' In the year 1748 the British Lords of Trade, incited by the people of Massachu- setts, determined to found a city on the coast of Nova Scotia, partly in prospect of commercial advantages, and partly to keep the Acadians in check. Parliament voted £40,000 for this purpose; and on June 21, 1749, a fleet of 13 transports and the sloop-of-war Sphinx arrived in the designated harbor, l>earing 2,876 colo- nists (of whom over 1,500 were men). The city was laid out in July , and was named in honor of George Montagu, Earl of Halifax, the head of the Lords of Trade. The Acadians and the Indians soon sent in ^heir submission ; but in 1751 the suburb of Dartmouth was attacked at night by the la<-.ter , and many of its citizens were massacred. 600 Germans settled here in 1751 - 52, bu j it was found difficult to preserve the col- ony, since so many of its citizens passed over to the New-England Provinces. The great fleets and armies of Loudon and Wolfe concentrated here before advancing against Louisbourg and Quel)ec ; and the city afterwards grew in importance as a uavfU sta- tion. Representative government was established in 1758, and the Parliament of 1770 remained in session for 14 years, while Halifax was made one of the chief sta- tions whence the royal forces were directed upon the insurgent American colonie§. After the close of the Revolutionary War, many thousands of exiled Loyalists took refuge here ; and the wooden walls and towers with which the city had been forti- fied were replaced with more formidable defences by Prince Edward. The ancient palisade-wall included the space between the present Salter, Barring- ton, and Jacob Streets, and the harbor ; and its citadel was the small Government House, on the site of the present Parliament Building, which was surrounded with hogsheads filled with sand, over which light cannons were displayed. The growth of Halifax during the present century has been very slow, in view of its great commercial advantages and possibilities. The presence of larg^ bodies of troops, and the semi-military regime of a garrison-town, have had a certain effect in deadening the energy of the citizens. Great sums of money were, however, made here during the American civil war, when the sympathies of the Haligonians were warmly enlisted Jji $w'qi^ of th^ revolted^ State^i^and many blockade-runners sailed hence to reap ricre Ifa^veita in WiiV Sftuthern iv)»ts.* "The ccs^a^ibft of the war put a stop to this lucraHve-iild}); bjiiitis flo\«^h(<(ptt(i: ttiat^^becAmiJletion of the Inter- colonial Railway to -Su^Joku* and •Quebeotwiil etween Oliicago and St. Louis, and l^id& tc'sim)l4c .{btkjuaiistiffttaufnal^ents; " 8t( Majx\tMax» that she ha* • k • • « • b « « >) ' 100 Route iO. THE ENVIBONS OF HALIFAX. a flnt-clam hotel and a theatre, which Halifbx has not ; and the NoTa-Scotian eity answers, in return, that she has the best cricket-club and the champion oarsnum of America. Sir William Fenwick Williams, of Kara, Bart., K. G. B., B.C. L., was bom atHali- fitx in 1800. After serving in Ceylon, Turkey, and Persia, ho instructed the Moslem artillery, and fortified the city ofKars. Here he was besieged by the Russians, under Gen. MouraTieflf. He defeated the enemy near the city, but was forced to surrender after a heroic defence of six months, boiug a sacrifice to British diplomacy. He was afterwards Commander of the Forces in Canada. Admiral Sir Provo Wallis was born at Halifax in 1791, and was early engaged in the great battle between the Cleopatra, 32, and the French Ville de Milan, 46. He afterwards served on the Curieux, the Gloire, and the Shannon, to whose command he succeeded after the battle with the Chesapeake. ■ 20. The Environs of Halifax. The favorite drive from Halifax is to the Four-Mile House, and along the shores of the * Bedford Basin. This noble sheet of water is 5 M. long and 1 - 8 M. wide, with from 8 to 86 fathoms of depth. It is entered by- way of the Narrows, a passage 2^-8 M. long and i M. wide, leading from Halifax Harbor. It is bordered on all sides by bold hills 200-330 ft. i^ height, betwcci^ which are 10 square miles of secure anchoring-ground. The village of Bedford is on the W. shore, and has several summer hotels (Bellevue, Bedford, etc.). The steamer Goliah leaves Halifax for Bedford at 11 A. M. and 2 p. m. daily. During the summer the light vessels of the Royal Halifax Ya<'.ht Club are seen in the Basin daily ; and exciting rowing- matches sometimes come off near the Four-Mile House. Along the shores of the Bedford Basin were the mournful camps and hospitab of the French Armada, in 1740, and 1,300 men were buried there. Their rcmainc wcro found by subsequent settlers. The first permanent colonies along theso shores were- made by Massachusetts Loyalists in 1784. Hammond^ s Plains arc 7 M. W. of Bedford, and were settled in 1S15 by slaves brought away from the shores of Maryland and Virginia by the British fleets. This Is, like the other villages of freed blacks throughout the Province, dirty and dilapi- dated to the last degree. To the N. W. is the Pockuwck Lake, 4 M. long, with di- versified shores, and abounding in trout. *' The road to Point Pleasant is a favorite promenade in the long Acadian twilights. Midway between the city and the Point lies ' Kissing Bridge,' which the Halifax maidens sometimes pass over. Who gathers toll nobody knows, but — " Point Pleasant projects between the harbor and the N. W. Arm, and is covered with pretty groves of evergreen trees, threaded by narrow roads, and now being laid out for a public park. The principal fortification is Fort Ogilvie, a gan'isoned post, whose artillery commands the channel. A short distance to the W. is the antiquated structure called the Prince of Walea^s Tower, from which fine views are afforded. The Point Pleasant Battery is near iJie^ water's Oigp, ;a»tl' irf •iiften(?e4 t(5< h^feep the outer passage. "* ' ' " ■• "'. y * I • / ' ,'''''"' The NorthwMt AVin' is 4 M. long and 'jl M. wide, and is a river-liko inlet, which nids'N. W^frbfo tb»1iai*b<)t',to waUh:2 St.'of i^e B^ford Bashi. DARTMOUTH. Moute 91. 101 Its shores are high and picturesque, and on the Halifax side are several fine mansions, surrounded by ornamental grounds. In the upper part of the Arm is Melville fslanclj where American prisoners were kept during the War of 1812. Ferguson's Cove is a picturesque village on the N. W. Arm, inhabited chiefly by fishermen and pilots. The steamer Micmac makes regular trips during the summer up the N. W. Arm, and to McNaVs Island, which is 3 M. long, and has a sum- mer hotel and some heavy military works. The Micmac leaves the South Ferry Wharf at 10 a. m. and 12, and 2 and 3 p. m. Dartmouth {Acadian House) is situated on the harbor, opposite the city of Halifax, to which a steam ferry-boat makes frequent trips. It has sev- eral pretty villas belonging to Halifax merchants; and at about ^ M. from the village is the spaciou!) and imposing building of the Mount Hope Asylum for the Insane, a long, castellated granite building which overlooks the harbor. Dartmouth has 4,358 inhabitants and 5 churches, and derives prosperity from the working of several foundries and steam-tanneries. It is also the seat of the Chebucto Marine Railway. This town was founded in 1750, but was soon afterwards destroyed, with some of its people, by the Indians. ' "'T84 it was reoccupied by men of Nantucket who preferred royalism te]mblicanism. The Montague Gold-Mines are 4 M. from Dartmomli, and have yielded in paying quantities. Cow Bay is a few miles S. E. of Dartmouth, and is much visited in summer, on account of its fine marine scenery and the facilities for bathing. The Dartmouth Lakes com- mence within 1 M. of the town, and were formerly a favorite resort of sportsmen, but are now nearly fished out. md is 'oads, on is mnel. ceof asant outer -like asin. " 2L The Basin of Minas.— Hali&x to St. John. Halifax to Windsor, see Route 18 (in reverse). Ttie steamboat-route from Windsor to 8t. John is here described. This line has been withdrawn, but may be replaced. The Evangeline and other boats cruise on the Basin, and the description given below may serve for characterizing the various porta. As the steamer moves out from her wharf at Windsor, a pleasiot view is afforded of the old college town astern, with the farming village of Fal- mouth on the 1., and shipbuilding Newport on the r., beyond the mouth of the St. Croix River. The shores are high and ridgy, and the mouth of the Kennetcook River is passed (on the r.) about 5 M. below Windsor. 2-8 M. below is Hantsport (1. bank), a thriving marine village opposite the mouth of the Cockmigon River. On Horton Bluff (1. bank) is a light- house which sustains a powerful fixed white light, visible for 20 M., and beyond this point the steamer enters the * Basin of Minas. On the 1. are the low ridges of Long Island and Boot Island, rising on the margin of a wide and verdant meadow. The meadow is Grand Pr6, the land of Evangeline (see Route 22). Mile after mile the fertile plains of Cornwallis 102 Route it CAPE BLOMIDON. open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills and the dark line of the North Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-cut outline of Cape Blomidon, brooding over the water, and on the r. are the low but well-defined bluffs of Chiviriet rich in gypsum and limestone. It is about 22 M. from the mouth of tho Avon to Parrsboro', and the course of the steamer continu- ally approaches Blomidon. Cape Bilomidon is a vast precipice of rvd sandstone of the Triassic era, with Strong Diaries of volcanic action. *' The dark basaltic wall, covered with thick woods, the terrace of amygdaloid, with a luxuriant growth of light-green shrubs and >oung trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and moist surtuce, the precipice of bright n d sandstone, always clean and fresh, and contracting strongly with the trap above, .... constitute a coDibination of forms and colors equally striking, if seen in the distance from the hills of Horton or Parrsboro', or more nearly from the sea or t le stony beach at its base. Blonidon is a scene never to be forgotten by a traveller who has wandered around its shores or clambered on its giddy preci- pices."' Th} cape is about 670 ft. high; and presents an interesting sight when its dark-red summit is peering above the white sea-fogs. Sir William Lyell, the emi- nent British geologist, made a careful study of the phenomena of tliis vicinity. The Indian legend says that Blomidon was made by the divine Glooscap, who broke the grea,t beaver-dam off this shore and swung its end around into its present •position. Afterwards he crossed to the new-made cape and strewed its slopes with tha gems that arc found there to-day, carrying thence a set of rare ornaments for his <:ncient and mysterious female companion. The beneficent chief broke away the beaver-dam becaikse it was flooding all the Cornwallis Valley, and in his conflict with the Great Beaver he threw at him huge masses of rock and earth, which are the present Five T^lands. W. of Utkogimrheech (Blomidon) the end of the dam swept around and became Pleegun (Cape Split). As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steamer hurries across the rapid currents of the outlet of tlie Basin. In front is seen the white vil- lage of Parrsboro', backed by the dark undulations of the Cobequid Mts. Just before reaching Parrsboro' the vessel approaches and passes Par- tridge Island (on the 1.), a singular insulated hill 260 ft. high, and con- nected with the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. Pt tridge Island was the Pulowech Munegoo of the Micmacs, and was a fhvorite locatio:' for legends of Glooscap. On his last great journey from Newfoundland by Pictou through Acadia and into the unknown West, he built a grand road ttoxa Fort Cumberland to this shore for the use of his weary companions. This miracu- lously formed ridge is now occupied by the post-road to the N. W., and is called by the Indians Oiowokun (iha causeway). At Partridge Island Glooscap had his cel- ebrated revel with the supernatural Kit-poos-e-ag-unow, the deliverer of all op- pressed, who was taken out alive from his mother (slain by a giant), was thrown into a well, and, being miraculously preserved there, came forth in due time to fulfil his high duty to men. These marvellous friends went out on the Busin in a stone canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark waters for some time, speared a monstrous whale. They tossed him into the canoe '* as though he were a trout," and made for the shore, where, in their brotherly feast, the whale was en- tirely devoured. Parrflboro' (two inns) is prettilj situated at the mouth of a small river, and under the shelter of Partridge Island. It has about 900 inhabitants, with three churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of the situation and the viewf., together with the sporting facilities in the back-country, have made Parrsboi'o' a pleasure resort of considerable re- pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This is one of the best points from which to enter the fine hunting and fishing PARRSBORO*. Route tl. 103 districts of Gnmberland County, and gaides and outfits may be seenred here. Amherst (see page 78} is 86 M. distant, by highways following the valleys of the Parrsboro' and Maccau Rivers. " Parrsboro' enjoys more than its share of broad, grsvelly beach, overhung with elifted and woody bluffs. One fresh ftom the dead walls of a great city would be de* lighted with the sylvan shores of Parrsboro'. The beach, with all its breadth, a miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now rolling up in curl- ing clouds of green and white. Here we turn westward into the great bay itself, going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, whirling, boil- ing, breaking in half-moons of crispy foam." (L. L. Noble.) '' Pleasant Parrsboro', with its green hills, neat cottages, and sloping shores laved by the sea when the tide is full, but wearing quite a different aspect when the tide goes out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet high upon a red clay bluff, and the fishing-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, high and dry out of water. The long massive pier at which the steamboat lately landed, lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed lo^. reeking with green oosgeand sea-weed ; and a high conical island which constitutes the chief feature of the landscape is trans- formed into a bold promontory, connected with the mainland by a huge ridge of bi'ick-red clay." (Hallock.) Gentlemen who are interested in geological studies will have a raiv chance to make '•collections about Parrsboro' and the shores of Minas. The most Kivorable time is when the bluffs have been cracked and scaled by recent frosts ;-or just after the close of the winter, when much fresh ddbri^ is found at the foot of the cliffs. Among the minerals on Partridge Island are : analcime, apophyllite, amethyst, agate, apatite, calcite (abundant, in yellow crystals), chabazite, chalcedony, cat's-eye, gypsum, hematite, heulandite, magnetite, sMlbite (very abundant), jasper, cacholong, opal, semi-opal, and gold-bearing quartz. About Cape Blomidon are found analcime, agate, amethyst, apophyllite, calcite, chalcedony, chabazite-gmelinite, ikroelite, hematite, magnetite, heulandite, laumonite, fibrous gypsum, malachite, mesolite, native copper, natrolite, stilbite, psilomelane, and quartz. Obsidian, malachite, gold, and coppler are found at Cape d'Or ; jasper and fine quartz crystals, on Spencer'i Island ; augite, amianthus, pyrites, and wad, at Parrsboro' ; and both at Five Islands and Scotsman's Bay there are beautiful specimens of moss agate. At Gomwallis is found the rare mineral called Wichtisite (resembling obsidian, in gray and deep blue colors), which is only known in one other place on earth, at Wichtis, in Fin- land. The purple and violet quartz, or amethyst, of the Minas shores, is of great beauty and value. A Blomidon amethyst is in the crown of France, and it is now 270 years since the Sieur de Monts carried several large amethysts ftom Partridge Island to Henri IT. of France. These gems are generally found in geodes, or after fresh falls of trap-rock. Advocate Harbor and Cape d' Or. A daily stage runs W. from Parrsboro' through grand coast scenery, for 28 M., passing the hamlets of Fox Harbor and Port Greville, aud stop- ping at Advocate Harbor. This is a sequestered marine hamlet, devoted to shipbuilding and the deep-sea fisheries, and has about 600 inhabitants. It if about 60 M. from Amherst, by a road leading across the Cobequid Mts. and through Apple River (see page 80). Some of the finest marine scenery in the Provinces is in this vicinity. 8-4 M. S. is the immense rocky peninsula of * Gape d'Or, almost cut off from the mainland by a deep ravine, in whose bottom the salt tides fiow. Cape d'Or is 500 ft. high, and has recently become noted for its rich copper deposits. Off" this point there is a heavy rip on the fiood-tide, which flows with a velocity of 6 knots an hour, and rises 88 - 89 ft. 8 M. W. of Advocate Harbor, and visible av toss 104 Route ei BASIN OF MII)AS. the open bay, is * Cape Ohigneeto, a wonderful headland of rack, 780 - 800 It. high, running down sheer into the deep waters. This mountain-pirom- ontory marlis the division of the currents of the Minas and Chignecto Channels. Cape d'Or is sometimes called Cap Dori on the ancient maps, and recdved its name on account of the copper ore which was found here by the early French ex- plorers, and was supposed to be gold. The Acadians afterwards opened mines here, and the name, Les Mines, originally applied to a part of this shore, was given to the noble salt-water lake to the £. Minas is either an English modification or the Spanish equivalent thereof Gape d'Or was granted to the Duke of Chandos many years ago, but he did not continue the mining operations. After leaving Parrsboro' the steamer runs W. through the passage be- tween Cape Blomidon and Cape Sharp, which is 8|^ M. wide, and is swept by the tide at the rate of 6-8 knots an hour. On the r. the ravines of Diligent River and Fox River break the iron-bound coasts of Cumberland County; and on the 1. is a remarkable promontory, 7 M. long and 1 M. wide, with an altitude of 400 feet, running W. from Blomidon between the channel and the semicircular bight of Scotsman's Bay. Cnpe Split is the end of th^s sea-dividing mountain, beyond which the S. shores fall suddenly away, and the steamer enters the Minas Channel. 12 M. beyond Cape Split, Spencer^s Island and Cape Spencer are passed on the N., beyond which are the massive cliffs of Cape d'Or. On the 1. are the unvarying ridges of the North Mt., with obscure fishing-hamlets along the shore. To the N. the frowning mass of Cape Chignecto is seen ; and the course passes within sight of the lofty and lonely rock of Jsle Haute^ which is 7 M. from the nearest shore. It is 1^ M. long and 850 ft. high, and is exactly intersected by the parallel of 65° W. from Greenwich. The steamer now passes down over the open waters of the Bay of Fundy. St. John is about 62 nautical miles from Isle Haute, in a straight line, and is a little N. of W. from that point, but the exigencies of navigation re- quire a course considerably longer and more southerly. This portion of the route is usually traversed at night, and soon after passing the powerful first-class red revolving-light on Cape Spencer (New Brunswick), the steamer runs in by the Partridge-Island light, and enters the harbor of St. John about the break of day. St. John, see page 15. The Basin of Minas. The steamer Evangeline leaves Parrsboro' daily, for the villages on the N. and B. shores of the Basiu of Minas. As the times of her departure are very irregular, owing to the necessity of following the tide, and her landings vary accoriliag to cir- cumfltances, the following account relates to the line of the coast rather than to her route. She is announced to call at Parrsboro', Londonderry, Maitland, Kingsport, Summerville, and Windsor. Soon after leaving Parrsboro', Frazer*8 Head is passed on the I., with its cliffs elevated nearly 400 feet above the water. About 16 M. E. of i BASIN OF MINAS. MotUe tJ. 105 land ilor, cir- ber 3rt, rith of i i I FarrsbOTo' are the remarkable insulated peaks of the *Five IslaadBt the chief of which is 860 ft. high, rising from the waters of the Basin. On the adjacent shore is the village of Five Islands, occupying a very picturesque position, and containing 600 inhabitants. In this vicinity are found iron, copper, and plumbago, and white-lead is extracted in considerable quan- tities from minerals mined among the hills. Marble was formerly produced here, but the quarries are now abandoned. The massive ridge variously known as Mt. Gerrish, St. Peter's Mt., and Red Head, looms over the vil- lage to a height of 500 ft., having a singularly bold and alpine "character for so small an elevation. On its lower slopes are found pockets containing fine barytes, of which large quantities are sent to the United States. A mass of over 160 pounds' weight was sent from this place to the Paris Ex- position of 1867. A few miles W. of the village are the falls on the North River, which are 90 ft. high ; and to the N. is the wild and picturesque scenery of the Cobequid Mts. Stages run from Londonderry Station to Five Islands, which is indeed one of the loveliest spots in Canada. The sea-beach is magnificent, and the facilities for bathing and boating ex- cellent. Broderick's Hotel commands the finest part of the shore. " Before them lay the outlines of Fire Islands, rising beantiAiUy out of the water between them und the mainland The two more distant were rounded and well wooded ; the third, which was midway among the group, had lofty, precipitous sides, and the summit wns dome-shaped; the fourth was like a table, rising with perpendicular sides to the height of 200 ft. , with a flat, level surface above, which was all overgrown with forest trees. The last, and nearest of the group, was by fiuf the most singular. It was a bare rock which rose irregularly from the sea, termi- nating at one end in a peak which rose about 200 ft. in the air It resembled, more than anything else, a vast cathedral rising out of the sea, the chief mass of the rock corresponding with the main part of the cathedral, while the tower and spire were there in all their majesty. For this cause the rock has received the name of Pinnacle Island At its base they saw the white foam of breaking surf; while fiir on high around its lofty, tempesNbeaten summit, they saw myriads of sea-gulls. Gathering in great white clouds about this place, they S|iorted and chased one an- other ; they screamed and uttered their shrill yells, which sounded afar over the sea. (DEMn.LE.) 10 M. beyond these islands the steamer passes the lofty and far-project- ing peninsula of Economy^ Pointy and enters the Cobequid Bay (which ascends to Truro, a distance of 36 M.). After touching at Londonderry, on the N. shore, the steamer crosses the bay to Maitland (two inns), a busy and prosperous shipbuilding village at the mouth of the Shubenacadie River (see page 82). The S. shore of the Basin of Minas is lined with bluffs 100-180 ft. high, but is far less imposing than the N. shore. Noel is about 16 M. W. of Maitland, and is situated on a pretty little bay between Noel Head and Burnt-Coat Head. It has 300 inhabitants, and produces the mineral called terra alba, used in bleaching cottons. It is not found elsewhere in Ajner- ica. After leaving Noel Bay and passing the lighthouse on Burnt-Coat ^ Economy U derived from the Indian name Jr«.om««, which was applied to the tame place, and meant " Sandy Point" 6* 106 Route tl. BASIN OF MIKAS. Head, the trend of the coast is followed to the S. W. for about 20 M. to TTo/ton, a village of 600 inhabitants, at the month of the La T6te River. M^y thousand tons of gypsum and plaster of Paris (calcined gypsum) are annually shipped from this port to the United States. Immense quantities are exported also from the coasts of Chivirie, which extend from Walton S. W. to the mouth of the Avon River. The whole back country is com- posed of limestone soil and gypsum-beds, whose mining and shipment form an industry of increasing importance. Beyond the Chivirie coast the steamer ascends the Avon River to Windsor. The Basin of Minas ytM the favorite home of Glooscap, the Hiawatha of the Mic- macs, ¥rhose traditions describe him as an envoy from the Great Spirit, \tho had the form and habits of humanity , but was exalted above all peril and sickness and death. He dwelt apart and above, in a great wigwam, and was attended by an old woman and a beautiful youth, and " was never very far trovx any one of them," who re- ceived his counsels. His power was unbounded Lijd supernatural, and was wielded against the enchantments of the magicians, while his wisdom taught the Indians how to hunt and fish, to heal diseases, and to build wigwams and Canoes. He named the constellations in the heavens, and many of the chief points on the Acadian shores. The Basin of Minas was his beaver-pond ; Gape Split was the bulwark of the dam ; and Spencer's Island is his overturned kettle. He controlled the ele- ments, find by his magic wand led the caribou and the bear to his throne. The allied powers of evil advanced with immense hosts to overthrow his great wigwam and break his power ; but he extinguished their camp-fires by night and summoned the spirits of the fTost, by whose endeavors the land was visited by an inteni^e cold, i and the hostile armies were frozen in the forest. On the approach of the English he } turned his huge hunting-dogs into stone and then passed away ; but will return again, right Spencer's Ishind, call the dogs to life, and once more dispense his royal ] hospitality on the Minas shores. | ** Now the ways of beasts and men waxed evil, and they greatly vexed Glooscap, - and at length he could no longer endure them ; and ho made a rich feast by the * shore of the great lake (Minas). All the beasts came to it ; and when the feast was ^ over, lie got into a big canoe, he and his uncle, the Great Turtle, and they went away over the big lake, and the beasts looked after them till they saw them no more. And after they ceased to see them, they still heard their voices as they sang, i but the sounds grew fainter and fainter in the distance, and at last they wholly died away ; and then deep silence fell on them all, and a great marvel came to pass, and the beasts who had till now spoken but one language no longer were able to understand each other, and they all fled away, each his otrn way, and never again have they met together in council. Until the day when Glooscap shall return to restore the Golden Age, and make men and animals dwell once more together in j amity and peace, all Nature mourns. The tradition states that on his departure I flrom Acadia the great snowy owl retired to the deep forests to return no more until | he could come to welcome Glooscap ; and in those sylvan depths the owls, even yet, j repeat to the night, ' Koo koo skoos ! Koo koo skoos ! ' which is to say, in the In- dian tongrue, * 0, 1 am sorry ! 0, 1 am sorry ! ' And the loons, who had been the huntsmen of Glooscap, go restlessly up and down through the world, seeking vainly for their master, wticai they cannot find, and wailing sadly because they find him not.'> I '' ^1 ( I THE BlSnr OF MINAS THE OLD ACA1HAN LAND. i«^s^ m \/. 'uriDg a heavy snowHstorm, before dawn on Feb. 11, the town was at- tacked by SIO French troopH, arranged in 10 divisions, and conimanded by Coulon de Ttlliem. The sentinels were vigikuit, and gave the alarm as soon as the hostile columns were seen over the lofty tinow-drifts ; but the assailants dashed in fearlessly and soon carried the strongest of the barracks. Col. Noble was slain while fighting in his sliirt. 134 Americans were killed and wounded and 69 were made pri( oners ; 21 of the attacking party were killed and wounded. In the morning SCO of the Massachusetts men wnre concentrated in a stone building, and fought with much bravery, the combat being waged from house to house through the streets. By noon their ammunition was expended, and they surrendered to the French, being paroled and allowed to march out with the honors of war. A convivial dinner was then epjoyed by the officers of the whilom hostile forces, and the Americans were sent to Annapolis under an Acadian guard, while the French soon afterwai'd retired to Buaubassin, t>earing their captured artillery and four stands of colors which had been taken in the battle. The shores of the Basin of Minas were settled in the early part of the 17th century by immigrants from La Rochcllc, Baintongc, and Foitou. They soon erected dikes by -vhich the tide was kept olT fi-om the meadows, and from these rich reclaimed laj.ds they gathered great crops. Several cargoes of grain were exported to Boston every year, and the settlement soon became large and proppcrcus. The Indians regarded these new neighbors with affection, and lived on terms of perfect peace with them. During the wars between France and Great Liitain, the Acadians were strongly patriotic, and took up aims in the cause of their native land. Intensely devoted to the Roman Catholic Church, and considering these wars as in the nature of crusades, they fought valiantly and well But when Nova Scotia was finally ceded to Great Britain (in 1713), their position became very awkward and painful. Many of them refused to take the oath of alle- giance, and for others a modified formula was framed. The emissaries of the French power at Louisbourg and Quebec circulated among them' and maintained their loy- alty to Franco at a fever heat, while their priests acted continually on the same policy, and kept up the hostility to the conquerors. The British Provincial govern- ment was located at Annapolis, and though its laws were mild and clenr.cnt, it could not command rerpcct on account of its physical weakness. Under these circum- stances, hundreds of the Acadians joined the French armies during every war be- tween the two powers, and proved dangerous foenien, on account of their knowledge of the land. British settlers were unwilling to locate among these people on account of their liostility, and the fairest lands of the Province were thus held by an alien and hostile population. The great conflict between England and France in the New World was still in full course, and the latter power v.a8 in possession of the Canadas. The msgority of the Acadians were doubtless peaceful and honest, occupied only with their local affoirs; but some of them were hostile and troublesome, and the anomalous position of these alien subjects was a source of incessant danger to the English power. It was therefore determined in the council at Halifax, in 1755, that tiicy must either take an unconditional oath of allegiance to Great Britain or leave the country. Deputations were called in from all the French settlements, and the alternatives were clearly set forth before them. Almost unanimously they refused to take the oath, preferring (they said) exile and confiscation to such an act, and ceeming to regard their neutrality of the past 45 years as having become a vested right. It seems as if diplomacy and argument were tiied to their utmost limit upon these unyielding recusants, '.nd it then became necessary for the honor and safety of the Province, to rc^c**; lo sterner measures. It was resolved that the whole Aca- dian people should be banished to the southern American colonies, and that their estates and buildings, cattle and vessels, should be declared forfeited to the Crown. Tho Acadians were taken by surprise. A British detachment and fleet dcf troycd all the villages, farms, and churches, on the Chignecto Basin and the Petitcodiac River, sweeping up many prisoners and meeting with some sharp fighting. Monc- ton destroyed Shc^diac, llernGheg, and other towns on the Gulf coast ; Murray gath- ered up the people about Windsor and to the £. ; and Handfield put the French Annapolitans on shipboard, except a few who escaped into the woods. Winslow collected 1,923 persons at Grand Pr6 and embarked them, and burned 256 houses, 276 barns, and 11 mills. (Winslow was a Massachusetts officer, and 20} ears later his own fiimily was driven into exile for hostility to America.) The people of Grand Prd were sent to North Carolina, Tlrglnia, and Maryland. GRAND pM Jtoute 92. 109 upcn Faiety Ara- tbeir )wn. royed odiac lonc- gath- cnch slow tuseg, later raud " While we see plainly that England could nerer really control this PrOTlnce while they remained in it, all our feelings of humanity are aflTected by the removal itself, and still more by the severity of the attendant circumstances They were the victims of great error on thehr own part, and of delusive views tliat &Ise friends had instilled into their minds, and the impulses of national ambition and jealousy precipitated their fkte. It is, however, some consolation to know that very many cf the exiles returned within a few years to their native land, and (hough not restored to their native farms, they became an integral and respected portion of our popula- tion, displaying, under all changes, those simple virtues that they had inherited, — the same modest, bumble, and peaceable disposition, that had been their early attri- butes." (Murdoch.) (See also Clare, CHEZZBrcooK, and Tracadie.) In 1760 a large colony of families from Connecticut, in a fleet of 22 vessels con- voyed by a man-of-v?ar, arrived at Grand Pr6 and occupied the deserted farms. " They fl^tind 60 ox-carts and as many yokes, which the unfortunate French had uj*ed in conveying their baggage to the vessels that carried them away from the country ; and at the skirts of the forest heaps of the bones of sheep and horned cat- tle, that, deserted by their owners, had peri.shed in winter from the lack of food. They also met with a few straggling families of Acadians who had escaped from the scrutinizing search of the soldiers at the removal of their countrymen, and who, afraid of sharing the same fate, had not ventured to till the land, or to appear in the open country. They had eaten no bread for five years, and bad subsisted on vegetables, fl?H, ant! the more hardy part of the cattle that had survived the severe ity of the first >vlnter of their abandonment." (Ualibcbton.) " This is the forest primeval. The murmuring pines and the hemlocks, Bearded with moss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight, Stand like Druids of eld, with voices sad and prophetic, Stand like harpers boar, with beards that rest on their bosoms. Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest. " This is the forest primeval; but where are the hearts that beneath it Leaped like the roe, when he hears in the woodland the voice of the hantsman? Where is the thatch-roofed village, the home of Acadian farmers, — Men whose lives glided on like rivers that water the woodlands, Darkened by shadows of earth, but reflecting an image of heaven? Waste are those pleasant farms, and the farmers forever departed ! Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October Seize them, and whirl them alofb, and sprinkle them far o^er the oceaa> Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Qrand Pr6. " In the Acadian land, on the shores of the Basin of Minas, Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Vt6 Lay in the fruitful valley. Yast meadows stretched to the eastward, Giving the village its name, and pasture to flocks without number. Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with labor incessant, Shut out the turbulent tides ; but at certain seasons the flood-gates Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows. West and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and corn-fields ■ Spreading a&r and unfenced o'er the plain ; and away to the northward Blomidon rose, and Ihe iv^i'ests old, and aloft on the mountains Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic Looked on the happy Va!!ey, but ne'er from their station descended. There, in the midst of its farms, reposed the Acadian village. Strongly built were the houses, with frames of oak and of chestnut, Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Henries. Thatched were the rooft^, with dormer-windows ; and gables projecting Over the basement below protected and shaded the doorway. There in the tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly the sunset Lighted the village street, and gilded the vanes on the chimneys, Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirtles Scarlet and blue and green, with distaffs spinning the golden Flax for the gossiping looms, whose noisy shuttles within doors Bliugled their sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the maidens. 110 Route U. QBANB PB^ .SolemnlT down the street came tbe parish priest, and the children Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them. Beyerend walked he among them ; and up rose matrons and maidens, Hailing his slow approach with word8 of affectionate welcome. Then came the laborers home from the field, and serenely the sun sank Down to his rest, and twilight prevailed. Anon from the belfry Softly the Angjdus Founded, and over the roofs of the village Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense afcending, Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. Thus dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers, — Dwelt in the love of God and of man. Alike were they free from Fear, that reigns with tbe tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics. Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bars to their windows ; But their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of the owners ; * * There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in abundance." The poet then describes " the gentle Evangeline, the pride of the vil- lage." " Fair was she to behold, that maiden of seventeen summers. Black were her eyes as the berry that grows on the thorn by the wayside, Black, yet how softly they gleamed beneath the brown shade of her tresses! Sweet was her breath as the breath of kine that feed in the meadows. When in the harvest heat she bore to the reapers at noontide Flagons of home-brewed ale, ah ! fair in sooth was the maiden. Fairer was she when, on Sunday morn, while tbe bell from its turret Sprinkled with holy sounds the air, as the priest with his hyssop Sprinkles thd congregation, and scatters blessings upon them. Down the long street she pnRscd, with her chaplet of beads and her missal, Wearing her Norman cap, and her kirtle of blue, and the ear-rings, — Brought in the olden time from France, and since, as an heirloom, Handed down from mother to child, through long generations. But a celestial brightness — a more ethereal beauty — Shone on her face and encircled her form, when, after confession. Homeward serenely she walked, with God's benediction upon her. When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exquisite music." After a beautiful description of the peaceful social life of the Acadians, and the betrothal of Evangeline, the poet tells of the arrival of the English fleet, the convocation of the people, the royal mandate, the destruction of Grand Pr^, and the weary exile of the villagers. " So passed the morning away. And lo ! with a summons sonorous Sounded the bvU firom its tower, and over the meadow a drum beat. Thronged erelong was the church with men. Without, in the churchyard. Waited the women. They stood by the graves, and hung on tbe headstones Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens fresh from tlic forest. Then came the guard from the ships, and marching proudly among them Ei'tered the sacred portal. With loud and dissonant clangor Ecioed the sound of their brazen drums ttom ceiling and casement, — F-choed a moment only, and slowly the ponderous portal Closed, and in silence the crowd awaited the will of the soldiers. Then uprose their commander, and spake from the steps of the altar, Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the royal commission. * Ye are convened this day,' he said, ' by his Majesty's orders. Clement and kind has he been ; but how have you answered his kindueis, Let your own hearts reply ! To my natural make and my temper Painful the task is I do, which to you I know must be grievous. Yet must I bow and obey, and deliver the will of our monarch ; Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattle of all kinds Forfeited be to the crown ; and that you yourselves from this province Be transported to other lands. God grant you may dwell there Ever as &ithfiil subjects, a happy and peaceable people ! Prisoners now I declare you ; fbr such is his Majesty's pleasure.' GRAND PR^ JRouteH. Ill e vil- li! I, lians, |glish •nof There disoTder prerailed, and the tomult and stir of embarking. Busily plied the freighted boats ; and in the confusion Wives were torn from their husbands, and mothers, too late, saw their children Left on the land, extending their anus, vith wildest entreaties. • > • • • Suddenly rose from the south a light, as in autumn the blood-red Moon climbs the crystal walls of heaven, and o'er the borizmi Titan-like stretches its hundred hands upon mountain and meadow, Seizing the rocks and the rivers, and piling huge shadows together. Broader and ever broader it gleamed on the roofs of the village, Gleamed on the sky and the sea, and the ships that lay in the roadstead. Columns of shining smoke uprose, and flashes of flame were Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like the quivering hands of a martyr. Then as the wind seized the glceds and the burning thatch , and uplifting, Whirled them alofb th ough the air, at once from a hundred house-tops Started the sheeted smoke, with flashes of flame intermingled. Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand Pr^, When on the falling tide the freighted vessels departed, Bearing a nation, with all its household gods, into exile, Exile without an end, and without an example in story. Far asunder, on separate coasts, the Acadians landed ; Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when the wind from the northeast Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the Banks of Newfoundland. Friendless, homeless, hopeless, they wandered from city to city, From t.he cold lakes of ♦he North to sultry Southern savannas, — From the bleak shores of the sea to the lands where the Father of Waters Seizes the hills in his hands, and drags them down to the ccean, Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones of the mammoth, j^ Friends they sought and homes ; and many, despairing, heart-broken, V Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer a friend or a fireside. Written their history stands on tablets of stone in the churchyards." Longfellow's Evangeline. " Much as we may admire the various bays and lakes, the inlets, promontories, and straits, the mountains and woodlands of this rarely visited corner of creation, —> and, compared with it, we can boast of no coast scenery so beautiful, — the vfdleyof Grand Pre transcends all the rest in the Province. Only our valley of Wyoming, as an inland picture, may match it, both in beauty and tradition. One had its Qer« trude, the other its Evangeline. " (Cozzens. ) " Beyond is a lofty and extended chain of hills, presenting a vast chasm, appar- ently burst out by the waters of 19 rivers that empty into the Basin of Minas, and here escape into the Bay of Fundy. The variety and extent of this prospect, the beauti- fhl verdant vale of the Gaspereaux ; the extended township of Horton interspersed with groves of wood and cultured fields, and the cloud-capped summit of the lofty cape that terminates the chain of the North Mt., form an assemblage of objects rarely united with so striking an effect." " It would be difficult to point cut another landscape at all equal to that which is beheld from the hill that overlooks the site of the ancient village of Minas. On either hand extend undulating hills richly cultivated, and intermit gled with form* houses and orchards. From the base of these highlands extend tim alluvial mead- ows which add so much to the appearance and wealth of Horton. The Grand Prairie is skirted by Boot and Long Islands, whose fertile and well-tilled fields are sheltered from the north by evergreen forests of dark foliage. Beyond are the wide expanse of waters of the Basin of Minas, the lower part of Cornwallis, and the isles and blue highlands of the opposite shores. The charm of this prospect consists in the unusual combination of hill, dale, woods, and cultivated fields ; in the calm beauty of agricultural scenery ; and in the romantic wildness of the distant forests. During the summer and autumnal months immense herds of cattle are seen quietly cropping the herbage of the Grand Prairie ; while numerous vessels plying on the Basin convey a pleasing evidence of the prosperity and resoui-oes of this fertile dis- trict." (HAUBUaiOK.) 112 Route XS, ST. MARY'S BAY. 23. Annapolis Boyal to Clare and Tarmonth.— The Tos- ket Lakes. From St. John or Halifax to AnnapoiU Royal, see Route 18. The Western-Counties liailwai/ was begun In September, 1874, and runs ftom Digby to Yarmouth, and is being built between Digbv and Annapolis. Stations. — Digby to Jordantown, 4 M. ; Bloonifield, 9 ; North Range, 11 ; Plympton,14: Port Gilbert, 16 : Weymorth, 22; BelHveau.26; Church Point, 30 ; Little Brook, 32; Saulnierville, 34; Mc: ,han, 37; Hcctanooga, 46 ; Norwood, 49 ; lake Jessie, 51 ; Brazil, 54 ; Green Cove 67 : Ohio, 60 ; Hebron, 62 ; Tarmouth, 67. We add also the distances on the old lig^ . ay. Itinerary. — Annapolis Royal; 3m itsport, 8J M. ; Victoria Bridge, 13^; Smith's Cove, 16; Digby, 20^ ; St. Mt. y's Bay, 27*; Weymouth Road, 32; Wey- mouth Bridge, 88 ; Belliveau Cove, 43 ; Clare, 50 ; Meteghan Covoj 69 ; Cbeticamp, 63 ; Bear River, 74 ; Y&rmouth Lakes, 81 ; Yarmouth, 90. The railway lies farther inland than the highway, traversing a com- paratively new country, where beautiful lakes and ponds abound on every side. The fare from Yarmouth to Weymouth is $1.65; to Digby, $2.45; to Annapolis, $3; to St. John, $3.50;" to Halifax, $6.50; to Boston (lim- ited), $7. Annapolis Royal to Digby, see pages 84, 85 (reversed). On leaving Digby the line runs S. W., traversing the fanning set- tlement of M$rshalUown, and crosses the Isthmus between the An- napolis Basin and St. Mary's Bay, a distance of about 7 M. Thence- forward, for over 80 M., the highway lies near the beautiful *St. Mary's Bay, which is about 35 M. long, with a width of from 3 to 10 M. On the opposite shore are the highlands of Digby Neck (see Route 24), a continu- ation of the North Mt. range. On this shore a wide belt of level land has been left between the receding range of the South Mt. (or Blue Mts.) and the bay, and the water-front is occupied by immerous farms. In St. Mary's Bay the fleet of the Sieur de Montfi lay for two weeks, in 1604, while the shores were being explored by boat's-crews. The mariners were greatly rejoiced in finding what they supposed to be valuable deposits of iron and silver. The Parisian priest Aubry was lost on one of these excursions, and roamed through the woodf for 16 days, eating nothing but berries, until another vessel took bdm off. The iiame Bate de Ste. Marie was given by Ghamplain. Brighton is at the head of the bay, and is a pleasant agricultmal village with a small inn. The hamlets of Barton (<^r Specht's Cove) and GilberVs Cove are soon passed, and the stage enters the pretty village of Weymouth (two inns), a seaport which builds some handsome vessels, and has a snug little trade with the United States and the West Indies. It is at the mouth of the Sissiboo River, on whose opposite shore is the Acadian hamlet of New Edinburgh. Across St. Mary's Bay is the maritime villjige of Sandy Cove. The line now ascends the r. bank of the Sissiboo River to Weymouth Bridge (Jones's Hotel), a maritime village of about the same size as Wey- mouth. It is 4 M. from the mouth of the river; and 2-5 M. to the E. are the Sissiboo Falls. The shore of St. Mary's Bay is regained at Belli- veau Cove (small inn), an Acadian hamlet chieHy devoted to agriculture I M* CLARE. Bouie 93. 113 snug bouth iet of ^andy and shipbuilding. From this point down to Beaver River, and beyond through the Tusket and Pubnico regions, the shore is occupied by a range of hamlets which are inhabited by the descendants of the old Acadian- French. The Clare Settlements were founded about 1763 by the descendants of the Acadians who had beea exiled to New England. After the conquest of Canada these unfortunate waniiercra were 8u£fered to return to Nova Scotia, but they found their former domains about the Basin of Minas already occupied by the New-Englanders. So they removed to the less fertile but still pleasant shores of Glare, and founded new homes, alternating their farm labors with fishing-'iroyages on St. Mary's Bay or the outer sea. This little commonwealth of 4 - 5,000 people was for many years governed and directed by "the amiable and venerated Abbe Segoigne,"a patrician priest who had fled from France during the Revolution of 1793. His power and influence were unlimited, and were exerted only for the peace and well-being of his people. Under this benign guidance the colony flourished amain; new hamlets arose along the shores of the beautiful bay ; and an Acadian village was founded in the oak-groves of Tusket. M. Segoigne also conciliated the Micmacs, learned their language, and was highly venerated by all their tribe. " When the traveller enters Clare, the houses, the household utensils, the foreigpi language, and the uniform costume of the inhabitants excite his surprise ; because no parish of Nova Scotia has such a distinctive character. The Acadians are far behind their neighbors in modus of agriculture : they show a great reluctance to enter the forest, and in place of advancing upon the highlands, they subdivide their lands along the shore and keep their children about them. They preserve their language and customs with a singular tenacity, and though commerce places them in constant communication with the English, they never contract marriage with them, nor adopt their manners, nor dwell in their villages. This conduct is not due . to dislike of the English government ; it must be attributed rather to ancient usage, to the national character, and to their systems of education. But if they are infe- rior to the English colonists in the arts which strengthen and extend the influence of society, they can proudly challenge comparison in their social and domestic vir- tues. Without ambition, living with frugality, they regulate their life according to their means ; devoted to their ancient worship, they are not divided by religious discord ; in fine, contented with their lot and moral in their habits of life, they en- joy perhaps as much of happiness and goodnesses is possible in the frailty of human nature." (Ualibubtox.) " Still stands the forest primeval ; but under the shsule of its branches Dwells another race, with other customs and language. Only along ths shore of the mournful and misty Atlantic Linger a few Acadian peasants, whose fathers from exile Wandered back to their native laud to die in its bosom. In the fisherman's cot the wheel and the loom are still busy ; Maidens still wear their Norman caps and their kirtles of homespun, And by the evening fire repeat Evangeline's story. While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest." Longfellow's Evangeline. The road runs S. W. fron' Belli veau Cove to Grosses Coques (300 inhabi- tants) and Port Acadie, Clare, and Saulnierville, a line of hamlets whose inhabitants are engaged in farming and the fisheries. A road runs 7 M. E. to New Tiisket, an Anglo-Acadian village in the interior, near the island-studded Lake Wentworth. Meteghan (German's Hotel) is a bay- side village of 500 inhfbitants, nearly all of whom are Acadians and farm- ers. There is a small church here, and half-a-duzen stores for country trade among the neighboring farmers. Meteghan is the last village on St. Mary's Bay, and the road now turns to the S. and passes the inland il : t 114 nouu is. YARMOUTH. hamlet of Cheticamp. Cape Cove is &n Acadian settlement, and is finely situated on ft headland which faces the Atlantic. The line leaves the vicinity of the sea and strikes inland through a region of forests and lakes; reaching Yarmouth ahout 13 M. S. of Beaver River. Yarmouth ( t7nif«d Statcn Hotel, $6-8 a week; American Hold) is a wealthy and prosperous senport on th-i S. W. coast of Nova Scotia, and is situated on a narrow harbor 3 M. from the Atlantic. It has tf,28G in- habitants, with 9 churches, 2 b.'uiks, 4 local marine-insurance companies, and 2 weekly newspapers. It has a public library and a small museum of natural history. The schools are said to be the be^t in the Fro v! nee, and occupy conspicuous buildings on the ridge back of the town. The Court-House Is in the upper part of the town; near which is the spacious Baptist church, built in Novanglian architecture. The Epit^copal church is a new building, and is one of the best in ?«'ova Scotia. I M. out is a rural ccmeteiy of 40 acres. Yarmouth ^s built along a lin-r of low rooky heights, over a harbor w]iich is nearly drained at low tide. It receives a goodly number of sumir.ftr visitors, most of whom pass into the Tusket Lakes or along the coast to the E., in search of sport. Yarmouth has been called the. .rost American of all the Provincial towns, and Is endowed with the energy and pertinacity of New England. Though occupying a remote situation on un indiifbrcnt harbor, with a barren and incapable back coun- try, this town has risen to opuluuce and distinction by the indomitable induotry of its citizens. In 1761 the shipping of the country was confined to one 25-ton fishings boat ; in 1869 it amounted to 284 vessels, measuring 93,896 tons, and is now £ir m advance even of that figure. It is claimed that Yarmouth, for her population, is the largest ship-owning port in the world. In addition to these great commercial flet!5 the town has estoblished a steamship-line to St. John and Boston, and is building, almost alone, the Western-Counties Railway to Annapolis. It is expected that gr>>at benefit will accrue from the timber-districts which will be opened by this new line of travel. " Yarmouth's financial success is due largely to the practical judgment m\A sagacity of her mariners. She has reared an army of shipmasters of whom any country might be proud," and it is claimed that a large proportion of the Cape-Ann dshing-captains are native of this country. On the adjacent coast, and within 12 M. of Yarmouth, are thu marine hamlets of Jegoggin, Sandford (Cranberry Head), Arcadia, Hebron, Hartford, Kelley's Cove, Jebogue, Darling's Lake (Short Beach), and Deerfielrl. These settlements have over 6,000 inhabitants in the aggregate. The coast was occupied by the French during the 17th century, but was afterwards abandoned. About the middle of the last century these de- serted shores were taken possession of by colonies of fishermen from Massachusetts and Connecticut, who wished to be nearer their fishing-grounds ; and the present population is descended from these hardy men and the Loyalists of 1783. The an- cient Indian name of Yarmouth was Keespoogwitk, which means " Laud's End." Steamships run between Yarmouth and Boston once or twice a week. When the Western-Counties Railway is finished to Annapolis, this will afford the quickest route between Boston and Halifax. The sea journey firom Boston to Yarmouth takes 19 - 20 hrs. ; the railway journey to Halifax will take 9 hours more. w Wf TUSKET LAKES. Route tS. 115 The Ttuket Ldket and Archipelago, The township of Tannouth contains 80 lakes, and to a bird fljring overhead it must seem like a patchwork of blue and green, in which the blue predominates. They are nearly all connected with the Tusket River, and are generally small, very Irregular, and surrounded by young forests. They rarely attain the width of 1 M., and are strung along the course of the river and its tributaries, joined by narrow aisles of water, and breaking off into bays which the unguided voyager would often ascend in mistake for the main channel In the lower Likes, where the tide flows, near Argyle Bay, are profitdble eel-fisheries. The remoter waters, towards the Blue Mts., afford good trout-fishing. The westerly line of lakes are visited from Yarmouth by riding 6 M. out on the Digby road and then turning off to Deerfield, near the Salmon-River Lakes, or passing over to the settlement at Lake George (12-14 M. from Yarmouth), which is 1|( M. wide and 3 -4 M. long, and is the largest lake in the township. A little farther N. is the Acadian settlement at Cedar Lake. The best route for the sportsman is to follow the Barrington telegraph- road 10 M. N. E. to Tusket (two inns), a large and prosperous shipbuild- ing village, with three churches, near the head of ship-navigation on the Tusket River. The scenery in this vicinity is picturesque, its chief feature being the many green islands off the shores; and the river has been famous for fisheries of salmon and gaspereaux, now impaired by the lumber-mills above. From this point a chain of lakes ascends to the N. for 20 M., in- cluding the central group of the Tuskets, and terminating at the island- strewn Lake Wentworth. The best place is found by following the road which runs N. E. 15 - 18 M., between Vaughan Lake and Butler's Lake, and by many lesser ponds, to the remote settlement of F'lnpt (small hotel), near the head-waters of the central and western groups. To the N. and E. of this point are the trackless forests and savage ridges of the Blue Mts., and the hunter can traverse these wilds for 40 M. to the N. E. (to the Liv- erpool Lakes), or for 30 M. to the S. E (to the Shelbume settlements), without meeting any permanent evidences of civilization. The ancient Indian tradition tells that squirrels were once very numerous in this region, and grew to an enormous size, endangering the lives of men. But the Oreat Spirit ouce appeared to a blameless patriarch of the Micmacs, and offered to reward his virtue by granting his utmost desire. After long meditation the chief asked the Divine Visitor to bless the land by taking the power from the mighty squirrels, upon which the mandate was iSv^ued and the dreaded animals shrank to their present in- significant size. And hence it is known that ever since that day the squirrel has been querulous at the sight of man. This great forest was formerly the paradise of moose-hunters, but is now closed to that sport by the recent Provincial law which forbids the killing of moose for the next three years. Poaching is, of course, quite possible, since the forest cannot be studded with game-keepers ; but men of culture and foresight will doubtless approve the action of the government, and will abstain tvom illegally pursuing this noble game, which must become extinct in a very few years unless carefully protected. S. of Tusket village are the beautiful groups of the Tusket Islei, stud- ding the waters of Argyle Bay and the Abuptic Harbor. Like most other collections of islands on this continent, they are popularly supposed to be 116 RouUfi4' DIGBY NECK. 866 in number, though they do not claim to possess an intercalary islet like that on h^kQ George (New York), which appears only every fourth year. The Tuskcts vary in size from Morris Island, which is 8 M. long, down to the smallest tuft-crowned rocks, and afford a great diversity of scenery. The outer fringe of the archipelago is threaded by the Halifax and Yarmouth steamship (see page 125). *' The scenery of Argyle Bay is extremely beautiftil of its kind ; innumerable islands and peninsulaa enclose the water in every direction Cottages and cul- tivated land break the masses of forest, and the masts of small fishing'Tessels peep- ing up from every little cove attest the multiplied resources \rhich Nature has pro- vided for the supply of the inhabitants." (Capt. Moorson.) Among these narrow {Msses hundreds of Acadians took refuge during the persecu- tions of 1758 - 60. A British frigate was sent down to hunt them out, but one of her boats' crews was destroyed by the fugitives among the islands, and they were not dislodged. There are now two or three hamlets of Acadians m the r^on of the upper lakes. [The Editor deprecates the meagreness of the foregoing account of the Tusket Lakes. It was too late in the season, when he arrived at Yarmouth, to make the tour of this district, and the landlord of the United States Hotel, the best authority on the sporting lacilities of the lake-country, was then attending a party of Boston sportsmen among the Blue Mts. The foregoing statements about the district, though obtained fjrom the best accessible sources of information, arc therefore given under reserve ; arid it would be best for gentlemen who wish to summer among the Tuskets to make inquiries by letter of the proprietor of the United States Hotel, Yarmouth, N. S.] 21 Digby Neck. Tri-weekly stages leave Digby for this remote corner of Nova Scotia. Fare to Sandy Cove, $ 1.50 ; to West Port, $ 2. Distances. — Digby to Rossway, 8>^ M. ; Waterford, 12 ; Centreville, 15 ; Lake- side, 17; Sandy Cove, 20; Little River, 25; Petite Passage, 80; Free Port; West Port, 40. The stage runs S. W. from Digby, leaving the settlements of Marshall- town and Brighton on the 1., across the Smelt River. The first hamlet reached is Rossway, whence a road, crosses to Gulliver's Cove on the Bay of Fundy. For over 20 M. the road descends the remarkable peninsula of Digby Neck, whose average width, from bay to bay, is about IJ M. On the 1. is the continuous range of dark hills which marks the W. end of the North Mt. range, where it is sinking towards the sea. Among these hills are found fine specimens of agate and jasper, apd the views from their summits (when not hidden by trees) reveal broad and brilliant stretches of blue water on either side. Fogs are, however, very prevalent here, and are locally supposed to be rather health}' than otherwise. On the 1. of the road are the broad waters of St. Mary's Bay, far beyond which are the low and rugged Blue Mts. Sandy Cove (small inn) is the metropolis of Digby Neck, and has 400 inhabitants and two churches. Its people live by farming and fishing, and support a fortnightly packet-boat to St. John, N. B. 4 M. S. E., across St. Mary's Bay, is the port of Weymouth (see page 112). Beyond Little River village the stage crosses the ridge, and the passenger passes ^F ^I' NOVA-SCOTIA COAST. JRmUetS. 117 the Petite Passage^ which separates DIgby Neck from Long Island. This strait is quite deep and 1 M. wide, and has a red-and-white flashing light on its N. W. point (Boar's Head). On the opposite shore of the passage is a village of 390 inhabitants (mostly fishermen), and the stage now runs down Long Island on the Bay of Fundy side. If there is no fog the view across the bay is pleasing, and is usually enlivened by the sails of passing vessels. Long Island is about 10 M. long, and 2 M. wide, and its village of Free Port has 700 inhabitants. Near the end of Long Island another ferrj-'-boat is taken, and the trav- eller crosses the Grand Passage to West Port (Denton's notel)^ a village of 600 inhabitants, most of whom are fishermen, shipbuilders, or sea- captains. This town is on Brier Island, the S. E. portal of the Bay of Fundy, and is 6 M. long by 2 M. wide. On its E. side are two fixed white lights, and on the W. are a fog-whistle and a powerful white light visible for 15 M. 25. Hali£uc to Yaxmouth.— The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia. The steamers of Fishwick's Express Line ply along the coast of Nova Scotia, leaving Halifax for Yarmouth weekly. Another vessel of this line plies between Halifax, Cape Canso, Guysborough, Port Hastings, Port Mulgrave, and Antigonish, giving access to all the North-Shore ports, and connecting with the Bras d'Or steamboats, for Cape Breton. Fares. — Halifax to Lunenburg, $2 ; to Liverpool, $8.50 ; to Shelbume, $4.60 ; to Yarmouth, $6. Lunenburg to Liverpool, $3; to Shelbume, $8.50; to Yar- mouth, $4.50. Liverpool to Shelbume, $ 2 ; to Yarmouth, S 3.50- Shelbume to Yarmouth, $2.50. Bertha are included in these prices, but the meals are extra.. "The Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia, from Gape Canso to Cape Sable, is pierced \rith innumerable small bays, harbors, and rivers. The shores are lined vrith rocks and thousands of islands ; and although no part of the country can properly be con- sidered mountainous, and there are but few steep high cliffs, yet the aspect of the tvhole, if not romantically sublime, is exceedingly picturesque ; and the scenery, in many places, is richly beautiful.. The landscape which the head of Mahone Bay, in particular, presents can scarcely be surpafiRcd." (M'GRGGoa's British America.) " The jagged outline of this coa.st, as f^een upon the map, reminds na of the equally indented Atlantic shores of Scandinavia ; and the character of the coast as he sails along it — the rocky surface, the scanty herbage, and the endless pine forests — re- call to the traveller the appearance and natural productions of the same European country." (Prof. Johnston.) The steamer passes down Halifax Harbor (see page 98), and gains the open sea beyond Chebucto Head and the lighthouse on Sambro Island. She usually makes a good offing before turning down the coast, in order to avoid the far-reaching and dangerous Sambro Ledges. W. of the open light of Pennant Bay is Mars Head, on whose fatal rocks the ocean steam- ship Atlantic was wrecked. 118 JtoiOegS. LUNENBURG. This line of coast has been flunous for Its murine disasters. In 1779 the British war-vessels North and HeUna were wrecked near Sambro, and 170 men were drowned. Mars Head deriveB itH name from the fact that the British line-of- battle ship Mars, 70 guns, was wrecked upon its black ledges. In 1779 the American war-vessel Vtjper, 22, attacked II. M. S. Resolution, Just oil' 8ambro, and captured her after a long and desperate battle, in which both ships were badly cut to pieces. Caije Sambro was named by the marinerH of St. Malo ca'-ly in the 17th century ; and it is thought that the present form of the name is a corruption of St. Cendre, the original designation. The ancient Latin book called the Novus Orbis (published by Elzevir ; Amsterdam, 1683) says that the islands between Cape Sambro ( Sesambre) and Mahone Bay were called the Martyrs' Isles, on account of the Frenchnien who had there been mao- Bacred by the heathen Indians. Beyond Cape Prospect the deep indentations of St. Margaret's Bay and, Mahone Bay make in on the K., and " breeiy Aipotogon Lifts high its summit blue." The roughest water of the voyage is usually found while crossing the openings of these bays. The course is laid for Cross Island, where there are two lights, one of which is visible for 14 M. Passing close in by thia island, the steamer enters that pretty bay which was formerly known to the Indians as Malagash, or "Milky," on account of the whiteness of its stormy surf. At the head of this bay the white and compact town of Lunenburg is seen between two round green hills. The steamer passes around the outermost of these, and enters the snug little harbor. " The town of Lunenburg is situated at the innermost extremity of a peninsula, and to a military traveller presents a more formidable aspect than any other in Nova Scotia, the upper houses being placed on the crests of steep glacis slopes, so as to bear upon all. approaches." (Capt. MooasoN.) Lunenburg {King's Hotel) is a thriving little seaport, situated on a se- cure and spacious harbor, and enjoying a lucrative West-India trade. Together with its immediate environs, it has 4,000 inhabitants, of whom over half are in the port itself. The German character of the citizens is still retained, though not so completely as in their rural settlements ; and the principal churches are Luthoran. The public buildings of Lunenburg County are located here. A large trade in lumbe and fish is carried on, in addition to the southern exports. There are numerous farming communi- ties of Gennanic origin in the vicinity; and the shore-roads exhibit at- tractive phases of marine scenery. 7 M. distant is the beautifully situated village of Mahone Bay (see Route 26) ; 4 M. distant are the remarkable sea- side ledges called the Blue Rocks ; to the S. E. is the rural settlement of Lunenburg Peninsula, off which are the sea-girt farms of Heckman*s Island ; and 12 M. distant is the gold district of The Ovens. This site was anciently occupied by the Indian village of Malagash. In 1745 the British government issued a proclamation inviting German Protestants to emigrate to Nova Scotia and take up its unoccupied lands In 1753, 200 families of Germans and Swl » settled at Lunenburg, and were provided with farming implements and three yt'«rs' provisions by the government. They fortified their new domains as well as possible, but many of the people were killed by Indians lurking in the woods. The settlement was thus held in check until after the Conquest of Canada, when the Indians ceased hostilitieB. In 1777 the town was attacked by two American prita- t IRONBOUND ISLAND. RouU 95. 119 teen, who landed detachments of anii' men and occupied the principal bvildlngs. After plundering the place and securing a valuable booty, these unwelcome Tisiton sailed away n^toicing, leaving Lunenburg to put on the robes of war and anxiooslj yearn for another naval attack, for whone reception spirited provisions were made. Among the people throughout this county German customs are still preserved, as at weddings and funerals ; the German language is spoken ; and sermons are delir- ered oftentimes in the same tongue. The cows are made to do service in ploughing, and the farming implements are of a primitive pattern. A large portion of the out- door work in the fields is done by the women, who are generally strong and muscular. The steamer leaves Lunenburg Harbor, passes Battery Point and its lighthouse on the 1., and descends between the knob-like hills of the outer harbor. On the r. are the shores of the remarkable peninsula of The Ovens (distant from Lunenburg, by road, 10 - 12 M.). The low cliffs along this shore are pierced by numerous caverns, three of which are 70 ft. wide at their mouths and over 200 ft. deep. The sea dashes into these dark recesses during a heavy swell with an amazing roar, broken by deep booming reverberations. Certain features in the formation of these caves have led to the supposition that they were made by human labor, though the theorists do not state the probable object for which they were exca- vated. In 1861 gold was discovered on the Oven? peninsula, and 2,000 ounces were obtained during that autumn, since which the mining fever has subsided, and no earnest work has been done here. The precious metal was obtained chiefly by washing, and but little was effected in the way of quartz-crushing. Beyond Ovens Head the pretty circular indentation of Rose Bay is seen on the r., on whose shores is a settlement of 250 German farmers. The steamer now passes between Cross Island (1.) and Rose Head, which are about 2 M. apart, and enters the Atlantic. When a sufficient offing has been made, the course is laid S. W. ^ W. for 8| M. Point £nrag6 is soon passed, and then the vessel approaches * Ironbound Island. This re- markable rock is about \ M. long, and rises from the sea on all sides in smooth curves of dark and iron-like rock, on which the mighty surges of the Atlantic are broken into great sheets of white and hissing foam. Upon this dangerous outpost of Nova Scotia there is a revolving light, which is visible for 13 M. Beyond Ironbound, on the r ., is seen the deep estuary of the Lahave River, which is navigable to Bridge water, a distance of 13 M., passing for 12 M. through the hamlets of New Dublin, and thence through a valley between high and knob-like hills. At Fort La Heve in 1636-7, died Isaac de Razilly, " Knight Commander of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, Lieutenant-Genera 1 of Acodie, and Captain of the West." He was a relative of Cardinal Richelieu, and had fought in the campaigns of La Rochelle and the coast of Morocco. In 1642 D'Aulnay purchased these do- mains from Claude de Razilly, but soon evacuated the place, removing the people to Port Royal. By 1654 the colony had recovered itself, having " undoubtedly the best port and the best soil in the whole country." It waa then attacked by the Sieur le Borgne, who burned all its houses and the chapel. At a later day the new Fort La H6ve was attacked by a strong force of New-England troops, who were beaten off several times with the loss of some of their best men. Bat the brave Frenchmen were finally forced to surrender, and the place was reduced to ruins. In 1706 the settlement was again destroyed by Boston privateem. 120 JtoutetS. LIVERPOOL. When off Cape Lahare the steamer takes a coarse W. by S., whVV is followed for 16§ M. The fishing hamlet of Broad Cove is on the SiK^re S. W. of Cape Lahave; and when about 9 M. from the cape, the entrance of Port Medway is seen. This harbor is 4 M. long and 1^ M. wide, and receives the waters of the Port Medway and Pedley Rivers. Port Med- way (Dunphy's Hotel) is on its W. shore, and has 600 inhabitants, who are engaged in shipbuilding and lumbering. The steamer soon rounds the revolving red light (visible 16 M.) on Cof- fin's Island, and turns to the N. W. up Liverpool Bay. The shores are well inhabited, with the settlement of Moose Harbor on the 1., and Brook- lyn (or Herring Cove) on the r. The lighthouse on Fort Point is rounded and the vessel enters the mouth of the Liverpool River, with a line of wharves on the 1., and the bridge in advance. Liyerpool ( Village Green Hotel, a comfortable summer-house; and two other inns) is a flourishing seaport with 8,102 inhabitants, 5 churches, a weekly paper, and a bank. Its principal industries are lumbering, fish- ing, and shipbuilding. The town occupies the rocky shore at the mouth of the Liverpool River, and its streets are adorned with numerous large shade trees. Many summer visitors come to this place, either on account of its own attractions, or to seek the trout on the adjacent streams and lakes (see Route 27). There are pleasant drives also on the Mill- Village Road, and around the shores of the bay. Liverpool occupies the site of the ancient Indian domain of Ogumkegnolc, made classic in the traditions of the Micmacs by the celebrated encounter which took place here between the divine Glooscap (see page 106) and the great Forceress of the Atlantic coast. The struggle of craft and malevolence against superior power are quaintly narrated, though taking forms not pleasing to refined minds, and the con- test ends in the defeat of the hag of Ogumkegeok, who is rent in pieces by the hunting-dogs of Olooscap. In May, 1604, the harbor of Liverpool was entered by Pierre du Ouast, " Sieur de Monts of Saintonge, Gentleman in Ordinary of the Chamber, and Governor of Pone," who had secured a monopoly of the fur-trade between 40° and 54° N. latitude. He found a ship here trading without authority, and confiscated her, naming the har- bor Port Rossignol, after her captain, ** as though M. de Monts had wished to make Bouie compensation to the man for the loss he inflicted on him, by immortalizing his name." This designation did not hold to the harbor, but has been transferred to the large and beautiful lake near the head-waters of the Liverpool River About 1634 a shore-fishery was established here by M. Denys and Gov. Razilly. This enterprise was for a long time successful, but was finally crippled by the cap- ture of its heavily laden freighting-ship by the Portuguese. Soon afterward Denys •was forced to leave Port Rossignol on account of the machinations of D'Aulnay Charnisay, and the settlement was broken up. By the year 1760 a thriving village stood on this site, and in the War of 1812 many active privateers were fitted out here. In 1882 the port owned 25,000 tons of shipping. On leaving Liverpool Bay the steamer rounds Western Head and runs S. W. i S. 14 M. On the r. is the deep embayment of Port Mouton, partly sheltered by Mouton Island, and lighted by a fixed red light on Spectacle Island. At its head is the farming and fishing settlement of Port Montoilt "^i^ 850 inhabitants. This inlet was visited by the ex- ploring ship of the Sienr de Monts in 1604| and received the name which ^ f V i Bazilly. the cap- i Denya 'Aulnay Tillage ut here. id runs niouton, jght on jent of [he ex- wbich „ SHEL6UKNE. Route U. 121 t i it still bears becanra a Rheep here leaped from the deck into the bay and was drowned. The shores were settled in 1783 by the disbanded veterans of Tarleton's Legion, who had done such valiant service in the Carolinas. In July, 1622, Sir William Alexander's pioneer-ship entered Port Monton, " and discovered three very pleasant harbors and went ashore in one of them, which, after the ship's name, they called Lulce's Bay, where they found, a great way up, a very pleasant river, being three fathoms deep at the entry thereof, and on every side of the same they did Ree very delicate meadows, having Roses white and red growing thereon, with a kind of white Lily , which had a dainty smell." These shores, which were hardly so fair a.<< the old mariner painted them, were noon occupied by a French post, after whose destruction they remained in solitude for over a century. On Little Hope Island is a revolving red light, beyond which the steamer rnns W. S. VV. 15 M. ; then Port Joli opens to the N. W., on which is a fishing-village of 200 inhabitants. About 3 M. beyond is Port Herbert^ a deep and narrow estuary with another maritime hamlet. Farther W. is the mouth of Sable River ; but the steamer holds a course too far out to distinguish much of these low shores. 34 M. N. is Ram Island, W. of which are the ledges off Ragged Island Harbor, at whose head is a village of 350 inhabitants. On the W. side of the harbor is Lockers Island (two inns), a prosperous little port of 400 inhabitants, whence the West-India trade and the Bank fisheries are carried on. During the season of 1874 70,000 quintals offish (valued at $260,000) were exported from this point. On Carter's Island is a fixed red light, and the sea-swept ledge of GuU Bock lies outside of the harbor, and has a powerful white light. Beyond Western Head the steamer runs across the wide estuaries of Green Harbor and the Jordan River, on whose shores are four maritime hamlets. The course is changed to N. W. ^ N., and Bony's and Government Points are passed on the r. On the 1. Cape Roseway is approached, on which are two fixed white lights, visible for 10 and 18 M., standing in a black-and- white striped tower. Passing between Surf Point and Sand Point the ves- sel turns N. by E., leaving Birchtown Bay on the 1., and runs up to Shel- bume. The last few miles are traversed between the picturesque shores of a bay which an enthusiastic mariner has called " the best in the world, except the harbor of Sydney, in Australia." Shelburne {Port Roseway House ; English and American Hotel) is the cap- ital of Shelburne County, and has over 1,000 inhabitants and 5 churches. It is engaged chiefly in fishing and shipbuilding, and excels in the latter branch of business. The harbor is 9 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, and has 5-7 fathoms of water, without any shoals or flats. It is completely land- locked, but can never attain any commercial importance, owing to the ^v fact that it is frozen solid during the winter, there being no river currents ^^or strong tides to agitate the water. There are granite-ledges near the Village, and the Roseway River empties into the bay 1 M. distant. Birch' town is 5 M. from Shelburne, and is at the head of a branch of the bay. It is inhabited by the descendants of the negro slaves brought from Mary- land and Virginia by the Loyalist refugees, in 1788. The country back 6 122 Jt(yute es. PORT LATOUR. ■ ,i of Shelbume is unimproved, and the roads soon terminate in the great for- ests about the Blue Mts. Stages run from this town E. and W. Fares, Slielburne to Liverpool, $2.50; to Harrington, $1.50; to Yarmouth, $4. " The town of Shelbiirne ia situated at the N. extremity of a beautiful inlet, 10 M. In length and 2-3 M in breadth, in which the whole royal navy of Great Britain might lie completely landlocked." In 1783 large numbers of American Loya'i!>ts settled here, hoping to erect a great city on this unrivalled harbor. They brought their servants and equipages, and established a cultured metropolitan society. Shel- bume soon ran ahead of Halifax, and measures were taken to transfer the Feat of government here. Within one year the primeval forest was replaced by a city of 12,000 inhabitants (of whom 1,200 were negroes). The obscure hamlet which had been founded here (under the name of New Jerusalem) in 1764 was replaced by a metropolis ; and Gov. Parr soon entered the bay on the frigate La Sophie, amid the roaring of saluting batteries, and named the new city Shelliurue. But the place had no rural back-country to supply and be enriched By ; and the colonists, mostly patricians from the Atlantic cities, could not and would not engage in the fisheries. The money which they had brought from their old home? was at last exhausted, and then " Shelbume dwindled into insignificance almost as rapidly as it had risen to notoriety." Many of its people returned contritely to the United States; and the population here soon sank to 400. " It is only the sight of a few large storehouses, with decayed timbers and window-frames, standing near the wharves, that will lead him to conclude that those wharves must once have teemed with shipmasters and Eailors. The streets of the town are changed into avenues bounded by stone fences on either side, in which grass plants contest the palm of supremacy with stones." Within two years over $2,500,000 were sunk in the founding of Shelbume. The steamer leaves Shelburne by the same course on which she entered, with the stunted forests of McNutt's Island on the r. Rounding Cape Hoseway within 1 M. of the lights, she runs down by Gray's Island, pass- ing Round Bay and the hamlet of Black Point, on the bold headland of the same name. Negro Island is then seen on the r., and is occupied by a population of fishermen; while its N. E. point has a powerful red-and- white flashing light. Inside of this island is the broad estuary of the Clyde River, and near by is the large and picturesque fishing-village of Cape Negro. Cape Negro was so named by Champlain, in 1604, " on account of a rock which at a distance resembles one." The steamer then passes the Salvage Rocks, off Blanche Island (Point Jeffreys), and opens the broad bay of Port Latour on the N. W. This haven was the scene of stirring events during the 17th century, and the remains of the fort of Claude de la Tour are still visible here. " Claude Turgis de St. Estienne, Sieur de la Tour, of the province of Champagne, quitted Paris, taking with him his son Charles Amador, *hen 14 years old, to settle in Acadia, near Poutrincourt, wlio was then engaged in founding Port Royal." 17 years afterwards, Charles succeeded to the government on the death of Biencourt, Poutrincourt's son, and for 4 years held Fort St. Louis, in the present Port Latour. Meantime Claude had been captured by the English and carried to London, where he was knighted, and t'len niarri(.'d one of the Queen's maids-of-honor. Being a Huguenot, he was the more easily seduced from his allegiance to France, and he offered to the King to procure the surrender of Fort St. Louis (the only French post then held in Acadia) to the English So he sailed to Nova Scotia with two frigates, and asked his son to yield up the stronghold, offering him high honors at London and the supreme command in Acadia, on behalf of the English power. " Claude at once told his father that he was mistaken in supposing him capable of giving up the place to the enemies of the state. That he would preserve it for the king his master while he had a breath of life. That he esteemed highly the dtgnitieB offered Um by CAPE SABLE. Route S5. 123 4 the English king, but should not buy them at the price of treason. That the prince he served waa able to requite him ; and if not, that fidelity was its own best recom- pense." The father employed affectionate intercession and bold menace, alike in vain ; and the English naval commander then landed his forces, but was severely repulsed from the fort, and finally gave up the siege. A traitor to France and a cause of disaster to England, the unfortunate La Tour dared not return to Europe, but advised his patrician wife to go back with the fleet, since naught now remained for him but penury and misery. The noble lady replied, " that she had not married him to abandon him. That wherever he should take her, and in whatever condi- tion he might be placed, she would always be his faithful companion, and that all her happiness would consist in softening his grief." He then threw himself on the clemency of his son, who tempered filial affection with military vigilance, and wel- comed the elder La Tour, with his family, servants, and equipage, giving him a house and liberal subsistence, but making and enforcing the condition that neither himself nor his wife should ever enter Fort St. Louis. There they lived in happiness and comfort for many years. (See also page 19.) The hamlet of Port Latour is seen on the inner shore, and the vessel rounds the long low promontory of Baccaro Point, on which is a small village and a fixed red light (visible 12 M.). On the W. is Cape Sable Island, which is 7 M. long and 2 - 3 M. wide, and has a population of 1,636, with three churches. Its first settlers were the French Acadians, who had prosperous little hamlets on the shores. In August, 1768, 400 soldiers of the 35th British Regiment landed here and destroyed the settle- ments, and carried priest and people away to Halifax. About 1784 the island was occupied by Loyalists from the New-England coasts, whose de- scendants are daring and adventurous mariners. Cape Sable is on an outer islet at the extreme S. point of the island and of Nova Scotia, and is 8- 9 M. S. W. of Baccaro Point. It is supposed that Cape Sable and the adjacent shores were the ancient lands of the Norse discoverers, '* flat, and covered with wood, and where white sands were far around where they went, and the shore was low." In tiio year 994 this point was visited by Leif, the son of Eric the Red, of Brattahlid, in Greenland. He anchored his ship off shore and lauded in a boat ; and when he returned on board he said : " This land shall be named after its qualities, and called Markland " (woodland). Thence he sailed southward, and discovered Vinland the Good, on the S. shores of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, where for many years the bold Norsemen main- tained colonies. In the year 1007 Markland was again visited by Thorfinn Karlsefue, who, with 160 men, was sailing south to Vinland. These events are narrated in the ancient Icelandic epics of the Saga of Eric the Red and the Saga of Thorfinn Karlsefne. In 1347 a ship arrived at Iceland from the shores of Markland, which is de- scribed by the Annoles Skalholtini and the Codex Flateyensls as having been smaller than any Icelandic coasting- essel. In such tiny craft did the fearless Norsemen visit these iron-bound shores. In the autumn of 1750 there was a sharp naval action off the cape between H. M. S. Albany and the French war-vessel St. Francis. The engagement lasted four hours, and ended in the surrender of the St, Francis, whose convoy, however, escaped and reached its destination. In July, 1812, the Salom privateer Polly was cruising off Cape Sable, when she sighted two strange sail, and bore down on them, supposing them to be merchant- men ; but one was a British sloop-of-war, which opened a hot fire upon the incau- tious Polly, and a sharp chase ensued. A calm commenced, during which the frig- ate's boats and launch attacked the privateer, but were repulsed by heavy dis- chaiges of musketry and langrage. The Polly mndo her escape, and during the chase and action the convoy of the frigate had been captured by the privateer Mad- ison, and was sent into Salem. In the same vicinity (Aug. 1, 1812) the Rhode-Island privateer Yankee captured the British ship Royal Bounty, 10 guns, alter a battle of one hour's duration. The ■ttfaauEBiMUi 124 Route £5. BARRINGTON. priyateer's broadsides were delivered with great precision, and 150 of her shot struck the enemy, while the fire of the Royal Bounty, though rapid and heavy, was nearly ineffective. The shattered Briton became unmanageable, and wliile in that condi- tion was rakAd from stem to stern by the Yankffe''s batteries. Gape Sable has long been dreaded by seamen , and has caught up and destroyed many vessels. It is one of the most dangerous prongs of that iron-bound Province for which Edmund Burke could find no better words than " that hard-visagcd, ill- favored brat " Probably the most destructive wreck on this shore was ^hat of the ocean steamship Hungarian. » The steamer is now running to the N. W. up the Barrinfjton Pas- sage, between Cape Sable Island and the populous Baccaro peninsula. In about 12 M. it lies to off Barrington, a thriving maritime village of 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries and the coasting trade. Clyde River is about 9 M. N. E., and is a lumbering district origi- nally settled by Welshmen. 10-12 M. N. are the Sabimm and Great Pubnico Lakes. Barrington was settled at an early date by the French, but they were crowded off in 1763 by the arrival of 160 families from Capo Cod, who brought hither their household effects on their own vessels. After the Revolution, a colony of Loyalists from Nantucket settled hero with their whilom neighbors. The course is now to the S. W., through a narrow and tide-swept pas- sage between Clement Point and N. E. Point, and thence out through the Barrington West Passage, passing the Baptist church near Clarke's Har- bor, and emerging on the open sea between Bear Point and Newell Head. (It is to be noted that, under certain adverse conditions of wind and tide, the steamer does not call at Barrington, but rounds Cape Sable on the outside.) On the 1. is Green Island, hiding Cape Sable, and the inlet of Shag Harbor is seen on the r. On Bon Portage Island (whose original French name was Bon Potage) is a new lighthouse, to warn vessels from the rugged shores on which the Viceroy was wrecked. The course soon changes toward the N. W., and Seal Island, " the elbow of the Bay of Fundy," is seen on the 1., far out at sea, with the tower of its lighthouse (fixed white light, visible 18 M., and fog-whistle) looming above its low shores. On this island the ocean-steamship Columbia was lost. The Blonde Rock is 3 J M. S. by W. from the lighthouse, and marks the point where H. B. M. frigate Blonde went to pieces, in 1782. Her crew was res- cued from the island and was given liberty by the American privateers Lively and Scammell, which were prowling about Cape Sable at the time of the wreck. When the Seal Island lighthouse is just abeam, on the other side is seen Cockerwhit and the Mutton Islands; N. of Seal Island the Noddy, Mud, and Round Islands are seen, lying well out at sea. The early French maps (Chaubert's) gave these lonely islands the significant name of Lea Isles arix Loups Marins. From Cape Sable " one goes to the Isle aux Cormorants, a league distant, so called on account of the in&iite number there of those birds, with whose eggs we filled & ) s seen Mud, ''ranch f Lea I TUSKET ISLANDS. RmteU. 125 cank ; and ttom this bay making W. about 6 leagues « crossing a bay which runs in 2-3 leagues to the N. , we meet several islands, 2-3 leagues out to sea, which may contain, some 2, others 3 leagues, and others less, according to my judgment. They are mostly very dangerous for vessels to come close to, on account of the great tides and ronks level with the water. The.*e islands are filled with pine-trees, firs, birchesi, r.nd aspens. A little further on are 4 others. In one there is so great a quantity of bin is called tangurtix that they may be easily knocked down with a stick. In another there are seals. In two others there is such an abundance of birds of dif- ferent kinds that, without having seen them, could not be imagined, such as cor- morants, ducks of three kinds, geese, marmettes, bustardi^, perroquets rt'. mer, snipes, vultures, and other birds of prey, mannes, sea-larks of two or three kinds, herons, goUtants, curlews, sea-gulls, divers, kites, appoils, crows, cranes, and other sorts, which make their nests here." (Ohamplain. ) *' Here are many islands extending into the sea, 4- 6 M. distant from the main- land, and many rocks with breaking seas. Some of these islands, on account of the multitude of birds, are called Isles aux Tangueux; others are called Isles aux Loups Marins (Seal Islands)." (Novus OaBis.) N. of St. John's Island (on the r.) is seen the deep inlet of Pnbnico Har- bor, on whose shores is the great fishing-village of Fubnico ( Garland's Hotel), with 2,500 inhabitants, of whom 136 families are Acad inn-French, the greater portion belonging to the families of Amiro and D'Entremont. There are valuable eel-fisheries off this coast, and the Acadians own 66 schooners in the Banks fisheries. 5 M. N. is Argyle, a settlement of 800 inhabitants, near the island-strewn Abuptic Harbor. The steamer now crosses the mouth of Argyle Bay and the estuary of the Tusket River (see page 116), and enters the archipelago of the* Tusket Islands. In favorable conditions of wind and tide she traverses the EUen- wood Passage, passing the Bald Tuskets, Ellenwood, Allen, and Murder Islands, and a muhitude of others. The islands are of great variety of size and shape, and are usually thickly covered with low and stui'dy trees; and the channels between them are narrow and very deep. The frequent kaleidoscopic changes in the views on either si i i, and the fascinating commingling and contrast of forest, rock, and water, recall the scenery of the Thousand Islands or the Narrows of Lake George. But the Tuskets are not even embayed ; they stand off one of the sharpest angles of the continent, and the deep lanes between them aro traversed by the strongest tides of the ocean. Soon after passing the last Tusket the steamer runs in near the white village on Jebogue Point, and enters Yarmouth Sound. On the 1. is Cape Fourchu, with its fog-whistle and a lofty revolving light which is visible for 18 M. The narrow channel is ascended, with a plain of mud on either side, if the tide is out; and the vessel reaches the end of her journey at th& wharves of Yarmouth. Tarmouth, see page 114. caUed led ft \.t. jfr" 126 Route f6, ST. MARGARET'S BAY. Hali&z to Yarmouth, by the Shore Eonte. — Chester and Mahone Bay. The easiest route to the chief ports on this coast is by the steamship line (see Route 25); and the new Western-Counties Railway, from Yarmouth to Annapolis, ■will, when completed, furnisli a still more expeditious line of travel. But many points on the Atlantic front of the Province arc, and will be, accessible only by stages. This mode of travel is fully as arduous here as in other remote districts, and the accommodations for wayfarers are indifferent. Distances. — Halifax to St. Margaret's Bay, 21 M. ; Hubbard's Cove (McLean's), 82 ; Chester, 45 ; Mahone Bay, 62 (branch to Lunenburg in 7 M.) ; Bridgewater, 70 ; Mill Village, 88; Liverpool, 97; Port Mouton, 107; Port Joli,112; Sable River, 122; Jordan River, 130 ; Shelburne, 137; Barrington, 157 ; Pubnico, 175 ; Tusket, 191; Yarmouth, 201. (Certain facts ascertained while travelling over this route have led the Editor to state the distance between Bridgewater and Chester as 4 M. less than that given in the official itinerary. ) Fares. — Halifax to Chester, $2.50; Mahone Bay, S3.50 (Lunenburg, $4); Bridgewater, $ 4 ; Liverpool, $ 6 ; Shelburne, $ 8.50 ; Barrington, $ 10 : Yarmouth, $ 12. The stage rattles up the hilly streets of Halifax at early morning, and traverses the wide commons N. of the Citadel, with formal lines of trees on either side. Beyond the ensuing line of suburban villas it descends to the level of the Northwest Arm (see page 100), along whose head it passes. The road then leads along the shores of the lakes whence Halifax draws its water-supply, and enters a dreary and thinly settled region. Dauphi- ney's Cove is at the head of * St. Margaret's Bay, one of the most beauti- ful bays on all this remarkable coast. It is 12 M. long by 6 M. wide, and is entered by a passage 2 M. wide; and is supposed to have been named {Bale de Ste. Marguerite) by Cliamplain, who visited it in May, 1603. There are several small maritime villages on its shores, and the dark blue waters, bounded by rugged hills, are deep enough for the passage of large ships. The stage runs S. W. along the shore for 11 M., sometimes rolling alongside of beaches of dazzling white sand, then by shingly and stony strands on which the embayed surf breaks lightly, and then by the huts of fishermen's hamlets, with their boats, nets, and kettles by the road- side. Ilvbhard's Cove has a small inn, where passengers get their midday meals. There was an ancient water-route from this point to the Basin of Minas. 2 M. from the Cove is Dniiphiney\s Lake, which is 4 M. long, whence a carry of 1^ M. leads into the Ponhook Lake, a river-like expanse 8 M. long, and nowhere so much as 1 M. wide. A short outlet leads to the Blind Lake, which winds for 7 M. through the forests W. of the Ardoise Mt., and is drained by the St. Croix River, emptying into the Avon at Windsor. 7 M. S. W. of Hubbard's Cove the stage crosses the East River, "a glorious runway for salmon, with splendid falls and cold brooks tumbling into it at intervals, at the mouth of which large trout can be caught two at a time, if the angler be skilful enough to land them when hooked." Frequent and beautiful views of Mahone Bay are now gained (on the 1.), as the stage sweeps around its head and descends to CHESTER. Rmiteie. 127 Chester > line (flee Lnnapolis, 3ut many e only by tricts, and IcLean's), water, 70 ; ble River, ; Tusliet, this) route r as 4 M. «rg, $4); Yarmouth, lin^, and of trees Bcends to it passes. IX draws Dauphi- it beauti- ide, and named , 1603. ark blue of large rolling stony the huts le road- midday id a. 2 M. M. leads ich as 1 )ugh the log into )er, " a [mbling rht two joked." Ithel.), Cheiter (two good inns), a village of abont 900 inhabitants, finely situ- ated on a hill-slope which overlooks the Chestei* Basin and Mahone Bay. It has three churches, and a pleasant summer society. This town was settled about the year 1760 by 144 New-Englanders, who brought an outfit of cattle and farming-tools. In 1784 tliey were joined by a large number of Loyalist refugees, but these were from the American cities, and soon wearied of farming and returned out of exile. In the woods near the vil- lage is a thermal spring 8 ft. around, whence a soft alkaline water is dis- charged ; and on the shores of Sabbatee Lake are found deposits of kaolin, or white pipe-clay. Mr. Hallock is an enthusiastic admirer of this town, and says : " Three pleasant seasons have I spent at Chester. I idolize its very name. Just below my window a lawn slopes down to a little bay with a jetty, where an occasional schooner lands some stores. There is a large tree, under which I have placed some seats ; and off the end of the pier the ladies can catch flounders, tomcods, and cunners, in any quantity. There are beautiful drives in the vicinity, and innumerable islands in the bay, where one can bathe and picnic to heart's-content. There are sailing-boata for lobster-spearing and deep-sea fishing, and row-boats too. From the top of a neighboring hill is a wonderful panorama of forest, stream, and cultivated shore, of bays and distant sea, filled with islands of every size and shape. And if one will go to Gold Iliver he may perchance see, as I have done, caribou quietly feeding on the natural meadows along the upper stream. Beyond Beech Ilill is a tracltless forest, filled with moose, with which two old hunters living near oft hold familiar inter- course." {The Fishing Tourist.) One of the pleasantest excursions in this district is to Deep Cove and Blandford, 16 M. from Chester, by a road which follows the shores of Mahone Bay. From Blandford the ascent of Mt. Aspotogon is easily ac- complished, and rewards the visitor by a superb marine * view, including the great archipelago of Mahone Bay, the deep, calm waters of St. Mar- garet's Bay on the E., the broken and picturesque shores towards Cape Sambro, and a wide sweep of the blue Atlantic. Visitors at Chester also drive down the Lunenburg and Laliave road, which afibrds pretty sea- views. A rugged road leads across the Province to Windsor, about 40 M. N., passing through an almost unbroken wilderness of hills, and following the course of the Avon Lakes and River. Semi-weekly stages run from Chester to Keutville (see page 90). * Mahone Bay opens to the S., E. and W. from Chester, and may be explored by boats or yachts from that village. It is studded with beau- tiful islands, popularly supposed to be 365 in number, the largest of which are occupied by cosey little farms, while the smaller ones are covered with bits of foi-est. The mainland shores are nearly all occupied by prosperous farms, which are under the care of the laborious Germans of the county. The fogs prevail in these waters to a f\ir less extent than on the outer deep, and it is not infrequently that vessels round the point in a dense white mist and enter the sunshine on the Bay. Boats and boatmen may be obtained at the villages along the shore, and pleasant excursions may be made among the islands, in pursuit of fish. '* The unrivalled beauty il ii 128 Route g6. MAHONE BAY. of Mahone Bay" has been the theme of praise from all who have visited this district. In June, 1813, the line-of-battle-ship La Hogue and the frigate Orpheus chased the American privateer Young Teazer in among these islands. Though completely overpowered, the Yankee vessel re- fused to surrender, and she was blown up by one of her officers. The whole crew, 94 in number, was destroyed in this catastrophe. Oak Island is "elebrated as one of the places where it is alleged that Capt. Kidd's treasure is h dden. About 80 years ago 3 New-Englanders claimed to have found here evidences of a buried mystery, coinciding with a tradition to the same effect. Digging down , they passed regular layers of flag-stones and cut logs, and their successors penetrated the earth over 100 ft. farther, finding layers of timber, charcoal, putty, West-Iudian grass, sawed planks, and other curious substances, together with a quaintly carved stone. The pit became flooded with water, and was pumped out steadily. Halifax and Truro merchants invcKted in the enterprise, and great stone drains were discovered leading frcm the sea into the pit. After much monc : il labor WPS spent in the excavation, it was given up about 10 years ago, and tiic; oliject of the great drains and concealed pit still remains a profound mys- tery. Bi 7r-i. cook is the chief of the islands in this bay, and is about 2 M. long. It coiitii;>^ j(K) inhabitants, who are engaged in farming and fishing. Between this point and Mt. Aspotogon is Little Tancook Island, with 60 inhabitants. These ialfitidi • tre devastated, in 1756, by the Indians, who killed several of the settlers. " This bay, the scenery of which, for picturesque grandeur, is not suipassed by ai;j' lar.. cape in America, is about 10 M. broad and 12 deep, and contains within it a ciu lie of beautiful wooded islands, which were probably never coutited, but are s^., vo exceed 200." Soon after the Yarmouth stage leaves Chester " we come to Chester Basin, island-gemmed and indented with many a little cove; and far out to sea, looming up in solitary grandeur, is Aspotogon, a mountain head- land said to be the highest land in Nova Scotia ( V ). The road follows the shore for many a mile, and then turns abruptly up the beautiful valley of Gold River, the finest of all the salmon streams of this grand locality. In it there are eleven giorious pools, all within 2 M. of each other, and others for several mile? above at longer intervals." Mahone Bay (Victoria Hot* 1) is a village of 800 inhabitants, situated on a pretty cove about 17 M. from Chester. It has 4 churches, and its inhab- itants are mostly engaged in fishing and the lumber-trade. In the vicinity are several other populous German settlements, and 7 M. S. is Lunenburg (see page 118). This point was knov to the Indians by the name of MusnMnush, and was fortified by the British in I7f't. The stage now traver.-^es a drearv inland region, inhabited by Germans, and soon reaches Bridyewater (two inns), a thriving village on the Lahave River, 13 M. from the sea. It has 1,000 inhabitants and 4 churches, and is largely engaged in the lumber-trade, exporting staves to the United States and the West Indies. The scenery of the Lahave River is at- tractive and picturesque, but the saw-mills on its upper waters have proved fatal to the fish (.see page 119). The road now traverses a dismal region for 18 M., when it reaches Mill Village (small hotel), on the Port Medway River. This place has several large saw-mills and a match- LIVERPOOL LAKES. Routs t7. 129 re visited and the n among vessel re- jrs. The that Capt. icd to have o the same t logs, and of timber, mbstances, sr, and was rprise, and Lfter much years ago, found mys- I. long. It Btween this nts. These c pettlers. arpaseed by ns within it out. ted, but ito Chester id far out tain hfead- bllows the valley of ality. In nd others lituated on 1 its inhab- |ie vicinity Uinenhurg name of [Germans, Lahave j-ches, and lie United irer is at- Iters have a dismal 1 the Port match- factorv, and its population numbers about 400. It is near the Doranrand Herringcove Lakes, and is 6 M. from the Third Falls of the Lahave. 9 M. S. \V. is Liverpool (see page 120). From Liverpool to Yarmouth the road runs along the heads of the bays and across the intervening strips of land. The chief stations and their distances are given in the itinerary on page 126; the descriptions of the towns may be found in Route 25. 27. The Liverpool Lakes. This system of inland waters is most easily reached from Halifax or St. John by passing to Annapolis Royal and there taking the stage which leaves at 6 ▲. u. daily. liistances. — Annapolis; MiIford,14 M. ; Maitland, 27 ; Northfield,30; Kempt, 85; Brookfield, 41; Caledonia Corner; Greenfield (Ponhook), 50; Middlefield, 56; Liverpool, 70. Soon after leaving Annapolis the stage ;. ers the valley of Allen's River, which is followed toward the long low range of the South Mt. At Milford (small inn) the upper reservoirs of the Liverpool River are met, and from this point it is possible to descend in canoes or flat-bottomed boats to the town of Liverpool, 60 M. distant. If a competent guide can be secured at Milford this trip can be made with safety, and will open up rare fishing- grounds. The lakes are nearly all bordered by low and rocky shores, with hill-ranges in the distance ; and flow through regions which are as yet but little vexed by the works of man. The trout in these waters are abundant and not too coy; though better fishing is found in proportion to the dis- tance to which the southern forest is entered. Mr. McClelland has been the best guide from Milford, but it is uncertain whether he will be avail- able this summer. Queen's and Lunenburg Counties form ** the lake region of Nova Scotia. All that it lacks is the grand old mountains to make it physically as at- tractive as the Adirondacks, while as for game and fish it is in every way infinitely superior. Its rivers are short, but they flow with full volume to the sea, and yield abundantly of salmon, trout, and sea-trout. Its lakes swarm with trout, and into many of them the salmon ascend to spawn, and are dipped and speared by the Indians in large numbers." (Hal- lock.) •' In the hollows of the highlands are likewise embosomed lakes of every variety of form, and often quite isolated. Deep and intensely blue, their shores fringed with rock bowlders, and generally containing several islands, they do much to di- versify the monotony of the forest by their frequency and picturesque scenery." (Capt. IIardy.) The Liverpool road is rugged, and leads through a region of almost un- broken forests. Beyond Milford it runs S. E. down the valleys of the Boot Lake and Fisher's Lake, with dark forests and ragged clearings on either side. Maitland is a settlement of about 400 inhabitants, and a few miles beyond is Northfield, whence a forest-road leads S. W. 6 M. to the 6* I 'm.''\ —I 130 Rmtei7. LIVERPOOL LAKES. shore of Fairy Lake, or the Frozen Ocean, a beautiful island-strewn sheet of water 4 M. long. The road now enters Broohfield, the centre of the new fanning settle- ments of the North District of Queen's County. Several roads diverge hence, and in the vicinity tlie lakes and tributaries of the Liverpool arid Port Medway Rivers are curiously interlaced. 6 - 6 M. S. E. is the Malaga LakCy which is 5 M. long and has several pretty islands. The road passes on to Greenfield, a busy lumbering-village at the outlet of Port Medway Great Lake. This long-drawn-out sheet of water is also skirted by the other road, which runs S. from Brookfield through Caledonia Comer (small inn). The Ponhook Road is S. W. of Greenfield and runs down through the forest to the outlet of Ponhook Lake, ' the headquarters of the Micmacs and of all the salmon of the Liverpool River." This Indian village is the place to get guides who are tireless and are familiar with every rod of the lake-district. From this point a canoe voyage of about 8 M. across the Ponhook Lakes leads the voyager into the great * Lake Bossignol, which is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and affords one of the most picturesque sights in Nova Scotia. " A glorious view was unfolded as we left the run and entered the still water of the lake. The breeze fell rapidly witii the sun and enabled us to steer towards the centre, from which alone the size of il:e lake could be appreciated, owing to the number of the islands. These were of every imaginable shape and size, — from the grizzly rock bearing a solitary stunted pine, shaggy with Usnea, to those of a mile in length, thickly wooded with maple, beech, and birches Here and there a bright spot of white sand formed a beach tempting for a disembarkation ; and fre- quent sylvan scenes of an almost fairy-land character opened up as we coasted along the shores, — little harbors almost closed in from the lake, overgrown with water- lilies, arrow-heads, and other aquatic plants, with mossy banks backed by bosky groves of hemlocks.'' (Capt. Hardt.) At the foot of Lake Roasignol is a wide oak-opening, with a fine greensward under groves of white oaks. Near this point the Liverpool River flows out, passing several islets, and afifording good trout-fishing. In and about this oak-opening was the chief village of the ancient Micmacs of this region ; and here are their nearly oblit- erated burying-grounds. The site is now a fevorite resort for hunting and fishing parties. The name Ponhook means " the first lake in a chain " ; and these shores are one of the few districts of the vast domains of Miggumdhghee, or " Micmac Land," that remain in the possession of the aborigines. From Ponhook 12 lakes may be entered by canoes without making a single portage. From Lake Rossignol the sportsman may visit the long chain of the Segum-Sega Lakes, entered from a stream on the N. W. shore (several portnges), and may thence ascend to the region of the Blue Mts. and into Shelburne County. The Indian Gardens may also be visited thence, af- fording many attractions for riflemen. The Micmacs of Ponhook are the best guides to the remoter parts of the forest. There are several gentle- men in the town of Liverpool who have traversed these pleasant solitudes, and they will aid fellow-sportsmen loyally. The Indian village is cmly about 16 M. from Liverpool, by a road on the 1. bank of the river. Liverpool, see page 120. CHEZZETCOOK. Route 28. 131 trewn sheet ming settle- ads diverge iverpool arid , the Malaga road passes 3rt Medway rted by the onia Comer runs down [quarters of This Indian imiUar with ige of about p-eat * Lake I of the most ! still water of nr towards the ., owing to the , — from the ose of a mile and there a ion ; and fre- coabted along n with water- ed by bosky jisward under jissing several ling was the I nearly oblit- ' and fishing fthese shores 3r " Micniac Look 12 lakes ^ain of the re (several and into tlience, af- lok are the |ral gentle- 1 solitudes, re is only 28. Hali&x to Tangier. The Royal mail-stage leaves Halifax at 6 A. M. on Monday, Wednesday, and Fri- day (returning the alternate days ' , for the villages along the Atlantic shore to the E. The conveyancu is not good, and the roads are sometimes in bad condition, but there is pretty coast-scenery along the route. Distances. — Halifax; Dartmouth; Porter's Lake (Innis's), 16)^ M. ; Chezaset- cook lload (Onnons), 18>^ ; Musquodoboit Harbor, 28>^ ; Lakevillc (Webber's), 40; Ship Harbor, 48; Tangier, 56 ; Sheet Harbor, 74; Beaver Harbor, 84. After leaving Dartmouth, the stage runs E. through a lake-strewn coun- try, and passes near the gold-mines of Montague. Beyond the Little Salmon River it traverses Preston, with the gold-bearing district of Lawrencetown on the S. The mines and placer- washings at this point drew large and enthusiastic crowds of adventurers in 1861-62, but they are now nearly abandoned. The road rounds the N. end of Echo Lake and ascends a ridge beyond, after which it crosses the long and river-like expanse of Porter^s Lake, and runs through the post-village of the same name. 3-4 M. to the S. E. is Chezzetcook Harbor, with its long shores lined with settlements of the Acadian French, whereof Cozzens writes : — •' But we are again in the Acadian forest ; let us enjoy the scenery. The road we are on is but a few miles from tlie sea-shore, but the ocean u hidden from view by the thick woods. As we ride along, however, we skirt the edges of coves and inlets that frequently break in upon the landscape. There is a chain of fresh-water lakes also along this road. Sometimes we cross a bridge over a rushing torrent ; some- times a calm expanse of water, doubling the evergreens at its margin, comes into view ; anon a gleam of sapphire strikes through the verdure, and an ocean-bay with its shingly beach curves in and out between the piny slopes." Here " the water of the harbor has an intensity of color rarely seen, except in the pictures of the most ultramarine p:iinters. Here and there a green island or a fishing-boat rested upon the surface of the tranquil blue. For miles and miles the eye followed indented grassy slopes that rolled away on either side of the liarbor, and the most delicate pencil could scarcely portray the exquisite line of creamy sand that skirted their edges and melted off iu the clear margin of the water. Occasional little cottages nestle among these green banks, — not the Acadian houses of the poem, 'with thatched roof? and dormer-windows projecting,' but comfortable, homely-looking buildings of modern shapes, shingled and un-weathercocked The women of Chezzetcook appear at daylight ia the city of Halifax, and as soon as the sun is up vanish like the dew. They have usually a basket of fresh eggs, a brace or two of worsted socks, a bottle of fir balsam, to sell. These comprise their simple commerce." Chezzetcook was founded by the French in 1740, but was abandoned during the long subsequent wars. Atler the British conquest and pacification of Acadia, many of the old families returned to their former homes, and Chezzetcook was re-occupied by its early settlers. They formed an agricultural community, and grew rapidly in prosperity and in numbers. There are about 250 families now resident about the bay, preserving the names and language and many of the primitive customs of the Acadians of the Basin of Minas. (See pages 108 and 113. ) The road passes near the head of Chezzetcook Harbor, on the r., and then turns N. E. between the blue waters of Chezzetcook Great Lake (1.) and Pepiswick Lake (r.). The deep inlet of Musquodoboit Harbor is soon reached, and its head is crossed. This is the harbor where Capt. Hardy made his pen-picture of this romantic coast: — " Nothing can exceed the beauty of scenery in some of the Atlantic harbors of Nova Scotia, — their innumerabl'- islands and heavily-wooded shores fiinged witli i (I I I 132 Route 28. TANGIER. the d^lden kelp, the wild undulating hills of maple rising in the background, the patches of meadow, and neat little white shanties of the fishermen's clearings, .... the fir woods of the western shores bathed in the morning sunbeamn the perfect rejection of the i^^landn and of the little fishing-schooners, the wreaths of blue smoke rising from thcif caliin stoTe», and the roar of the distant rapids, where tlie river juins the harbor, borne in cadence on the ear, mingled with the cheerfbl sounds of awakening life from the cleuring.s." Near Musquodoboit are some valuable gold-mines, wiiii two powerfuV quartz-crushing mills, and several moderately rich lodes of auriferous quartz. The stage soon reaches the W. arm of Jeddore Harbor, and then crosses the Le Marchant Bridge. The district of Jeddore has 1,623 in- habitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries or the coasting trade, alternating these employments with lumbering and shipbuilding. A long tract of wilderness is now traversed, and Shij) Harbor is reuched. A few miles N. W. is the broad expanse of Ship Harbor Lake, reaching nearly to the Boar's Back Ridge, and having a length of 12-14 M. and a width of 2-4 M. To the N- are the hills whence falls the Tangier River, to vtrhich the Indians gave the onomatupoetic name of Ahmagopakegeek, which signifies " tumbling over the rocks." The post-road now enters the once famous gold-bearing district of Tan(j ler. These mines were opened in 1860, and speedily became widely renowned, attract- ing thousands of ailventurcrs from all parts of the Atlantic coast. For miles the ground was honeycombed with pits and shafts, and the excited men worked with- out intermission. But the gold was not found in maBses, and only patience and hard work could extract a limited quantity from the quartz, so the crowd became discontented and went to the new fields. Lucrative shore-washings were engaged in for some time, and a striy nugget of Tangier gold weighing 27 ounces was ghown in the Dublin Exposition. This district covers about SO square miles, and has 12 lodes of auriferous quartz. Tha South Lode is the most valuable, and appears to grow richer as it d(>o(!ud.s. Ihc mines are now being worked by two small companies, and their avf^rage yield i» $ 400 - 500 per miner each year. Beyond Tangier and Pope's Bay the post-road passes the head of Spry Bay, and then the head of Mushaboon Harbor, and reaches Sheet Harbor (FarnaPs Hotel). This is a small shipbuilding village, at the head of the long harbor of the same name, and is at the outlets of the Middle and North Rivers, famous for their fine salmon fisheries. ^ - From this point a road follows the shore to the N. £. to Shcrbrooke, about 60 M. distant, passing tlie obscure maritime hamlets of Beaver Harbor, Necum Tench, Ekum Sekum, Marie Joseph, and Liscoml) Harbor. The back-country on all this route is yet desolate and unsettled. There are so many islands off the shore that this portion of the Atlantic is called the Bay of Islands (old French, Baie de Toutes les Isles), although it is not embayed. Sberbrooke, see page 133. :M--}-^ ■!■:■:: L'- ■ • : t i ■,.h nti 'ih --i,} ■•.«';*■ **«*i'? ■ I! GUYSBOROUGH. Jioute 99. 133 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia. This district is reached by passing on the Intercolonial Rnilway (see Routes 16 and 17) firom St John or Halifax to New Qlasgow, and thence taking the Royid mail-stage to Antigoniah (see Route 32). From Antigonish a stage departs on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings, running 40 M. S. (fare, $2) to Sherbrooke (two inns). This is a village on the 1. bank of the St. Mary's River, the largest river in Nova Scotia, and is at the head of navigation on that stream. It is engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of d( Is and lumber. The town de- rives considerable interest from the fn i hat in the vicinity is one of the broadest and most prolific gold-fields T^mvince. Goldenville is 3 M. from Sherbrooke, by a road which en .. Mary's on a long bridge. This district covers 18 square miles, '^ richest in the Province, having yielded as high as $2,000 per mm per year, or about three times the average production of the best of the Australian mines. The aurifer- ous lodes are operated at Goldenville only, where there are several quartz- crushers on a large scale. These mines were discovered in 1861, and on the first day over $500 worth of gold was found here. Systematic mining operations were soon commenced, and the yield of the precious metal baa since been very satisfactory. The Wine- Harbor Gold-field is several miles S. E. of Sherbrooke, near the mouth of the St. Mary's River. The average yield per ton is small, yet the breadth and continuity of the lodes renders the work easy and certain. This district is seamed with abandoned shafts and tunnels, one of which is 700 ft. long. The first discovery of gold was made in 1860 in the sands of the sea-shore, and the quartz lodes on the N. E. side of the harbor were soon opened Of later years the Wine-Harbor district has greatly decl'iied in popularity and productiveness. The S'.ormont Gold-Jields are 33 M. N. E. of Sherbrooke, and ore most easily reached by direct conveyance from Antigonish. Gold wa.s discovered hero by the Indians in 1861^ and occurs in thick layers of quartz. Owing to its remoteness, this region has remained undeveloped, and its total yield in 18fi9 was but 227 ounces ($4,540). The cliief village in the district is at thie head of Country Harbor, a pic- turesque arm of the sea, 8 M. long and '2-3 M. wide. There are fine opportunities for shooting and fishing among the adjacent bays and highlands. All this shore was settled in 1783 - 4 by Loyalists from North and South Carolina. Guysborough and Cape Canso. Gnysborougll {Grant's Hold) is reached by daily mail-stages from Heatherton, on the Halifax & Cape Breton Railway. After leaving the valley of the South River, the road passes through a rough and hilly region, and descends through the Intei'vale Settlement and Manchester to Guys- borough, a marine village at the head of Chedabucto Bay. It has about 1,700 inhabitants, with a prosperous academy, and is the capital of Guys- borough County (named in honor of Sir Guy Carleton). It is engaged in shipbuilding and the fisheries, and has a good and spacious harbor. The noble anchorage of Milford Haven lies between the town and the bay. ^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ .^ii. 1.0 1.1 128 ■5S uii2i2 u liii us 2.2 140 1^ m — 1 ^'^ lllll'-^ < 6" ► fliotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRHT WEBSTIR.N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 ^ %^ s ' ^ • s"^ 4. #• <^^ ^ ''' ". "* ■ ■ ■■ ■- ■ ^ ,.,,_ ' - ' J '■ ■ ' ' ^' nif 134 Route 90. SABLE ISLAND. I \' ' i I : i ! ! !l i A strong post was established at Chedabncto, on the site of Oaysborongh, in 1686, by M. Denys, who had spacious warehouses and a strong fort here, tc^ther with 120 men. Here he leceivrd and supported the exiled children of D^AiHnay Char- nisay ; and here also he was vainly besieged for seTera) days by La Oirau^^hne. and 100 men from Canso. In 1690 the works were held by De Montorgueuil, and were bravely defended against the attacks of the New-England army under 8ir William Phipps. Finally, when the buildingR of the fort were all in flamea about hhn, the gallant Frenchman surrendered, and was sent to Placentia with his soldiers. The ruins of the ancient fort are now to be traced near the mouth of the harbor. * A bold ridge runs 81 M. E. from Guysborough along the S. shore of Ghed- abucto Bay to Cape Canso, the most easterly point of Nova Scotia. A road follows the course of the bay to the fishing-village of Cape Canso, which has over 1,000 inhabitants and enjoys a profitable little export trade. Several Islands lie off this extreme point of Nova Scotia, one of which bears two powerful white lights and a fog-whistle. Canso Harbor is marked by a fixed red light which is visible for 12 M. Wlilte Haven is on the S. side of the great peninsula of Wilmot, 80 M. from Guysborough, and ia a small fishing settlement situated on one of the finest bays on the American coast. It was originally intended to have the Intercolonial Railway terminate here, and connect with the transatlantic steamships. The harbor is easy of access, of capacious breadth, and free from ice in winter. Its £. point is White Head, usually i^e first land seen by vessels crossing from Europe in this upper lati- tude, on which is a fixed white light. Just W. of White Haven is the fishermen's hamlet of Molasses Harbor ^ near the broad bight of Tor Bay. 30. Sable Island. The Editor inserts the following sketch of this remotest outpost of the Maritime Provinces, hoping that its quaint character may make amends for its uselessness to the summer tourist. It may also bo of service to voyagers on these coasts who should chance to be cast away on the island, since no one likes to be landed suddenly in a strange country without having some previous knowledge of the reception he may get. A regular line of communication has recently been established between Sable Island and Halifax. The boats run once a year, and are chartered by the Canadian government to carry provisions and stores to the lighthouse people and pa*^rols, and to bring back the persons who may have l)een wrecked there during the pre- vious year. Bable Island is about 90 M. S. E. of Cape Canso. It is a barren ex- panse of sand, without trees or thickets, and is constantly swept by storms, under whose powerful pressure the whole aspect of the land changes, by the shilling of the low dunes. The only products of this arid shore are cranberries, immense quantities of which are found on the lowlands. " Should any one be visiting the island now, he might see, about 10 M. distance, looking seaward, half a dozen low dark hummocks on the horizon. As he ap- proaches, they gradually resolve themselves into hills ftinged by breakers, and by and by the white sea-beach with its continued surf, — the sand-hills, part naked, part waving in grass of the deepest green, unfold themselves, — a house and a bam dot the western extremity, — here and there along the wild beach lie the ribs of un- lucky traders half buried in the shifting sand Nearly the first thing the vis- itor does ia to mount the flag-staff, and, climbing into the crow's-nest, scan the scene. The ocean bounds him everywhere. Spread east and west, he views the narrow island in form of a bow, as if the great Atlantic waves had bent it around, nowhere much above 1 M. wide, 26 M. long, including the dry bars, and holding a shallow lake 13 M. long in its oentre. There it all lies spread like a map at his feet, — grassy SABLE ISLAND. Route 90. 135 hill and sandy ndley IHding aimy Into ilie distance. On the Ibrcgroond the ootpoct men galloping their rough ponies into headquarters, recalled by the flag flying orer his head ; the West-end house of refuge, with bread and matches, firewood and kettle, and directions to find water, and headquarters with flag-staff on the adjoin- ing hill. Every sandy peak or grassy knoll with a dead man's name or old ship's tradition,— Baker's Hill,Trott'8 Cove, Scotchman's Head, French Gardens, — tra- ditionary spot where the poor convicts expiated their social crimes, — the little burial-ground nestling in the long grass of a high hill, and consecrated to the re- pone of many a sea-tossed limb ; and 2 -3 M. down the shallow lake, the South-side house and bam, and staff and boats lying on the lake beside the door. 9 M. fiurther down, by the aid of a glass, he may view the flag-staff at the foot of the lake, and 6 M. farther the East-end lookout, with its staff and watch-house. Herds of wild ponies dot the hills, and black-duck and sheldrakes are heading their young broods on the mirror-like ponds. Seals innumerable are basking on the warm sands,- or piled like ledges of rock along the shores. The Glcugow^s bow, the MaskonemeVs stem, the East Boston's hulk, and the grinning ribs of the well-fhstened Cfuide, are spotting the sands, each with its tale of last adventure, hardships passed, and UAi endured. The whole picture Is set in a silver-frosted frame of rolling surf and sear ribbed sand." " Mounted upon his hardy pony, the solitary patrol starts upon his lonely way. He rides up the centre valleys, ever and anon mounting a grassy hill to lo(^ sea- ward, reaches the West-end bar, speculates upon perchance a broken spar, an empty bottle, or a cask of beef struggling in the land-wash, — now fords the shallow lake, looking well for his land-range, to escape the hole where Baker was drowned ; and coming on the breeding-ground of the countless birds, his pony's hoof with a xeok- less smash goes crunching through a dozen eggs or callow young. He fiiirly puts his pony to her mettle to escape the cloud of angry birds, which, arising in countlew numbers, dent his weather-beinten tarpaulin with their sharp bUls, and snap his Eony's ears, and confuse him with their sharp, shrill cries. Ten minutes more, and e is holding hard to count the seals. There they lay, old ocean's flocks, resting their wave-tossed limbs, — great ocean bulls, and cows, and calves." (Dr. J. B. GapiN. ) For over a century Sable Island has been famous for its wild horses. They num- ber perhaps 400, and are divided into gangs which are under the leadership of the old males. They resemble the Mexican or Ukraine wild horses, in their large heads, shaggy necks, sloping quarters, paddling gait, and chestnut or piebald colors. Once a year the droves are all herded by daring horsemen into a large pound, where 20 or 90 of the best are taken out to be sent to Nova Scotia. After the horses chosen for ex- portation are lassoed and secured, the remainder are turned loose again. Since Sable Island was first sighted by Cabot, in 1497, it has been an ottjeet of terror to mariners. Several vessels of D'Anville's French Armada were lost here ; and among the many wrecks in later days, the chief have been those of the ocean steamship Georgia and the French frigate VAfricaiw.. In the year 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert was returning fit>m Newfoundland (of which he had taken possession in the name of the English Crown), his little fleet became entangled among the shoals about Sable Island. On one of these outlying bars the ship Delight struck heavily and dashed her stern and quarters to pieces. The officers and over 100 men were lost, and 14 of the crew, after drifting about in a pinnace for many days, were finally rescued. The other vessels, the Squirrel and the Golden Hind, bore off to sea and set their course for England. But when off the Aiores the Squirrel was sorely tossed by a tempest (being of only 10 tons' burden), and upon her deck was seen Sir Humphrey Gilbert reading a book. As she swept past the Golden Hind, the brave knight cried out to the captain of the latter : " Courage, my lads, we are as near heaven by sea as by land." About midnight the &iuirrel plunged heavily forward into the trough of the sea, and went down with all on board. Thus perished this " resolute soldier of Jesus Christ, .... one of the noblest and best of men in an age of great men." In 1508 a fritile attempt at colonizing Sable Island was made by " Le Sienr Baron de Leri et de St. Just, Yic^mte de Gueu." But he left some live-stock here tliat afterwards saved many lives. In the year VXf8 the Marquis de la Boohe was sent by Henri IV. to Amerioa, car* rying 200 oonviots tnm the Fxenoh prisons. Ha determiiMd to found a settlement ; 'I! I 136 BouteSl. NEW GLASGOW. ' i|, i I on Sable Island, and left 40 of his men there to commence the work. Soon after. De la Roche was forced by stress of storm to return to France, abandoning these unfortunate colonists, without food, clothing, or wood, they suffered intensely, until partial relief was brought by the wrecking of a French ship on the island. For ■even yean they dwelt in huts built of wrecked timber, dressed in seal-skins, and li'dng on fish. Then King Henri lY. sent out a ship under Chedotel, and the 12 ranrirors, gaunt, squalid, and long-bearded, were carried back to France, where they were pardoned and rewarded. An attempt was made about the middle of the 16th century to colonise Cape Bre« ton in the interests of Spain, but the fleet that was transporting the Spaniards and thdr property was dashed to pieces on Sable Island. 31. St John and HalifEuc to Ficton. By the Pietou Branch Railway, which diverges firom the Intercolonial Railway at Truro. Stations. — St. John to Pietou. St. John to Truro, 216 M. ; Valley, 219 ; Union, 224 ; Riversdale, 228 West River, 236 ; Glengarry, 243 ; Hopewell, 260 ; Btollexton, 266 ; New Olasgow, 268 ; Pietou Landing, 266 ; Steamboat Wharf, 267. Stations.— HaZt/az to Pietou. Halifax to Truro, 61 M. ; Valley, 66; Union, 70; Riversdale, 74 ; West River, 82 ; Glengarry, 89 ; Hopewell, 96; SteUarton, 101 ; New Olasgow, 104 ; Pietou Landing, 112 ; Steamboat Wharf, Ua St. John to Truro, see Routes 16 and 17. Halifax to Truro, see Route 17 (reversed). The train i^uns E. from Truro, and soon after leaving the environs, enters a comparatively broken and uninteresting region. On the 1. are the roll- ing foot-hills of the Cobequid Range, and the valley of the Salmon River is followed by several insignificant forest stations. Riversdale is surrounded by a pleasant diversity of hill-scenery, and has a spool-factory and a con- siderable lumber trade. 14 M. to the N. is the thriving Scottish settlement of Earltown. Beyond West River the train reaches Glengarry^ which is the station for the Scottish villages of New Lairg and Gairloch. Hopewell (Hopewell Hotel) has small woollen and spool factories ; and a short dis- tance beyond the line approaches the banks of the East River. Stellarton is the station for the great Albion Mines, which are con- trolled (for the most part) by the General ^ ng Association, of London. There is a populous village here, most nf w . inhabitants are connected with the mines. The coal-seams extend over several miles of area, and are of remarkable thickness. They are being worked in several pits, and would doubtless return a great revenue in case of the removal of the re- strictive trade regulations of the United States. In the year 1864 over 200,000 tons of coal were raised from these mines. Hew Glasgow (three inns) is a town of 2,600 inhabitants, largely en- gaged in shipbuilding and having other manufactures, including foundries and tanneries. It is favorably situated on the East River, and has large coal-mines in the vicinity. Here are the main offices and W. terminus of the Halifax & Cape Breton Railway, running 75 M. E. to the Strait of Canso. The train now descends by the East River to Fisher* » Grant, opposite the town of Pietou, to which the passengers are conveyed by ferry. PICTOU. BouteSl. 137 lonial Railway at garrj/j which is Pioton (Eureka ; Waverley ; Revere, etc.) is a flonrishing town on the Gulf shore, with 3,500 inhabitants, six churches, a masonic hall, two weekly papers, the public buildings of Pictou County, three banks, a handsome Y. M. C. A. building, and the Pictou Academy, founded on the plan of a Scottish University in 1818, and now occupying a large and handsome new building, with museum, library, convocation hall, etc. The harbor is the finest on the S. shore of the Gulf, and can accommodate ships of any burden, having a depth of 5-7 fathoms. The town occupies a commanding position on a hillside over a small cove on the N. side of the harbor; and nearly opposite, the basin is divided intn three arms, into which flow the East, Middle, and West Rivers, on which are the ship- ping wharves of the Albion, Intercolonial, Acadia, and Vale Coal Com- panies, whence immense quantities of coal are exported. There is very pleasant scenery in the vicinity of Pictou, and good sea-bathing on the adjacent beaches. Pictou has a large coasting trade ; is engaged in shipbuilding; and has a marine-railway. It has also tobacco-factories, carding-mills, several saw and grist mills, a foundry, and three or four tanneries. But the chief business is connected with the adjacent mines and the exportation of coal, and with the large freestone quarries In the vicinity. Stages leave Pictou several times weekly, for River John, Tatamagouche, Wallace, Pugwash, and Amherst (see page 81). Steamships leave (opposite) Pictou for Char- lottetown, Summerside, and Shediac, on Monday, Wednesday, arid Friday, on the arrival of the Hali&x train (see Route 44) ; also for the Oulf ports and Quebec, every Tuesday at 7 A. M. , and alternate Fridays at 1 p. M. (see Route 63) ; also for Port Hood and the Magdalen Islands (see Route 49) ; and for Hawkesbury and the Strait of Canso. After the divine Qlooscap (see page 106) had left Newfoundland, where he conferred upon the loons the power of weirdly crying when they needed his aid, he landed at Pictou (from Piktook, an Indian word meaning " Bubbling," or '* OaS'^xploding," and referred to the ebullitions of the water near the great coal-beds). Here he created the tortoise tribe, in this wise : Great festivals and games were niade in his honor by the Indians of Pictook, but he chose to dwell with a homely, laay, and despised old bachelor named Mikchickh, whom, after clothing in his own robe and giving hhn victory in the games, he initiated as the progenitor and king of all the tortoises, smoking him till his coat became brown and as hard as bone, and then re- ducing his size by a rude surgical operation. The site of Pictou was occupied in ancient times by a populous Indian village, and in the Hoe of the coast about 16 M. N. into the Gulf. They are, in some places, 1,000 ft. high, and hare a strong and Wl< marked mountainous character. Semi-weekly stages run N. from Antigonish to Marristowmknd OeorgevUle, respectively 10 and 18 M. distant. 8-10 H. N. of the latter is the bold promontory of Cape St. Ctoor^e, on which, 400 ft. abore the sea. is a powerful revolving white light, which is visible for 25 M. atrea. From this point a road runs S. W. to Mdliynant Cove, which is also ucces^ible by a ro> mantio road through the hills fh>m Antigonish. This is a small seaside hamlet, which derives its name from the flict that H. B. M. frigate Malignant was once caught in these narrow waters during a heavy storm , and was run ashore here in order to avoid being dashed to pieces on the iron-bound coast kej-ond. 4-6 M. beyond the Cove is Arlsalff, a romantically situated settlement of Scottish Catholics', who named their new home in memory of Arisaig, in the Western Highlands. It'has a long wooden pier, under whose lee is the only liarbor and shelter against east-wiuds between Antigonish and Merigomiah. The first important station between Antigonish and the Strait is Heatherton, a Franco-Scotch district of 2,000 inhabitants. A daily stage connects the railway at this station with Guysborough, a town on the Atlantic coast, about 20 M. S. of Heatherton, and the capital of the county of Guysborough (see page 133). Tracadie is in a French district of 1,180 inhabitants. There is a monastery here, pertaining to the aus- tere order of the Trappists. Most of the monks, between 40 and 50 in num- ber, are from Belgium. They are excellent fanners, and have their land thoroughly cultivated. There is also a Convent of Sisters of Charity in the vicinity. The people of Tracadie, like all the 41,219 French inhab- itants of Nova Scotia, belong to the old Acadian race, whose sad and romantic history is alluded to on pages 108 and 113; "And now we passed through another French settlement, Tracadie, and again the Nor- man kirtle and petticoat of the pastoral, black-eyed Evangeline appear, and then pass like a day-dream." (Cozzens.) Harbor au Bouche is a French district of 2,140 inhabitants. Thfc village is out of sight of the station, on St. George's Bay, and has two churches and two inns. Beyond this point the line soon reaches its terminus, on the Strait of Canso, where passengers for Cape Breton take steamers. CAPE BRETON. The island of Cape Breton is about 100 M. long by 80 M. wide, and baa an area of 2,000,000 acres, of which 800,000 acres consist of lakes and swamps. The S. part is low and generally level, but the N. portion is very irregular, and leads o£f into unexplored highlands. The chief natural peculiarities of the island are the Sydney coal-fields, which cover 260 square miles on the E. coast, and the Bras d*Or, a great lake of salt water, ramifying through the centre of the island, and communicating with the sea by narrow channels. The exterior coast line is 275 M. long, and is ' provided with good harbors on the £. and S. shores. The chief exports of Cape Breton are coal and fish, to the United States; timber, to England; and farm-produce and live-stock to Newfoundland. The commanding position of the island makes it the key to the Canadas, and the naval power holding these sliores could control or crush the com- merce of the Gulf. The upland soils are of good quality, and produce valuable crops of cereals, potatoes, and smaller vegetables. The Editor trusts that the following extract from Brown's " History of the Island of Cape Breton" (London : 1869) will be of interest to the tourist : " The summers of Cape Breton, say from May to October, may challenge comparison with those of any country wIMr-u the temperate regions of the world. During all that time there are pi'rhaps not more than ten foggy days in any part of the island, except along the southern coast, between the Gut of Canso and Scatari. Bright sunny days, with balmy westerly winds, follow each other in succession, week after week, while the midday heats are often tempered by cool, refreshing sea-breezes. Of rain there is seldom enough; the growing crops more often sufier from too little than too much." " To the tourist that loves nature, and who, for the manifold beauties by hill and shore, by woods and waters, is happy to make small sacrifices of personal comfort, I would commend Gape Breton. Your fashionable, whose main object is company, dress, and frivolous pleasure with the gay, and whose only tolerable stopping-place is the grand hotel, had better content himself with reading of this island." (Noble. ) The name of the island is derived from that of its E. cape, which was given in honor of its discovery by Breton mariners. In 1718 %\\» French authorities bestowed upon it the new name of L'Jsle BoyaUt during the rH' 142 JtmUe 3S. THE STRAIT OF CANSO. reign of Louis XIV. At this time, after the cession of Acadia to the Brit- ish Grown, many of its inhabitants emigrated to Gape Breton ; and in August, 1714, the fortress of Louisbonrg was founded. During the next half-century occurred the terrible wars between France and Great Britain, whose chief incidents were the sieges of Louisbourg and the final demoli- tion of that redoubtable fortress. In 1765 this island was annexed to tlie Province of Nova Scotia. In 1784 it was erected into a separate Province, and continued as such until 1820, when it was reannexed to Nova Scotia. In 1816 Gape Breton had about 10,000 inhabitants, but in 1871 its popula- tion amounted to 76,603, a large proportion of whom were from the Scot- tish Highlands. 33. The Strait of Canso. The Gut of Ganso, or (as it is now more generally called) the Strait of Ganso, is a picturesque passage which connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and separates the island of Gape Breton from the shores of Nova Scotia. The banks are high and mountainous, covered with spruce and other evergreens, and a succession of small white ham- lets lines the coves on either side. This grand avenue of commerce seems worthy of its poetic appellation of *' The Golden Gate of the St. Lawrence Gulf." It is claimed that more keels pass through this channel every year than through any other in the world except the Strait of Gib- raltar. It is not only the shortest passage between the Atlantic and the Gulf, but has the advantage of anchorage in case of contrary winds and bad weather. The shores are bold-to and free from dangers, and there are sev- eral good anchorages, out of the current and in a moderate depth of water. The stream of the'tide usually sets from the S., and runs in great swirling eddies, but is much influenced by the winds. The strait is described by Dawson as " a narrow transverse valley, excavated by the currents of the drift period," and portions of its shores are of the carboniferous epoch. The Strait of Ganso is traversed by several thousand sailing-yeseels every year, and also by the large steamers of the Boston and Colonial Steamship Company. ^'So ^th renewed anticipations we ride on toward the strait 'of unrivalled beauty,' that traTellera say ' surpasses anything in America.' And, indeed, Canseau can have my feeble testimony in confirmation. It is a grand marine highway, hav- ing steep hills on the Gape Breton Island side, and lofty mountains on the other shore ; a fhll, broad, mile-wide space between tiiem ; and reaching, from end to end, fifteen miles, firom the Atlantic to the Gulf of St. Lawrence." (Gozzens.) Vessels from the S., bound for the Strait of Ganso, first approach the Nova-Scotian shores near Cape Canso (see page 184), whose lights and islands are rounded, and the course lies between N. W. and W. N. W. towards Eddy Point. If a fog prevails, the steam-whistle on Cranberry Island will be heard giving out its notes of warning, sounding for 8 seconds in each minute, and heard for 20 M. with the wind, for 16 M. in calm PORT HASTINGS. RouU SS. 143 weather, and 6 - 8 M. in stormy weather and against the wind. On the L is Cbedabucto Bay, stretching in to Guysborough, lined along its S. shore by hills 3-700 ft. high; and on the r. the Isle Madame is soon approached. 28-30 M. beyond Cape Ganso the vessel passes Eddy Pointy on which are two fixed white lights (visible 8 M). On the starboard beam is Janvrin Island, beyond which is the broad estuary of Habitants Bay. On the Cape-Breton shore is the hamlet of Bear Point, and on the 1. are Melford Creel' (with its church), Steep Creek, and Pirate's Cove. The hamlets of Port Mulgrave and Port Hawkesbury are now seen, nearly opposite each other, and half-way up the strait. Fort Mulgrave (two inns) is a village of about 400 inhabitants, on the Nova-Scotia side of the strait. I^ is engaged in the fisheries, and has a harbor which remains open all the year round. Gold-bearing quartz is found in the vicinity ; and bold hills tower above the shore for a long dis- tance. A steam ferry-boat plies between this point and Port Uawkesbnry, 1| M. distant, in connection with the Halifax and Cape-Breton Railway, running down from New Glasgow, through Autigonish (see page 138). Fort Hawkesbury {Hawkesbury Hotel, comfortable; Acadia Hotel) is a village of about 900 inhabitants, on the Cape-Breton side of the strait. It is situated on Ship Harbor, a snug haveu for vessels of 20-ft. draught, marked by a fixed red light on Tupper Point. This is the best harbor on the strait, and has very good holding-ground. The village is of a scat- tered appearance, and has four small churches. There are several wharves here, which are visited by the Boston and Halifax steamers, and other lines. Stages run hence to Sydney, Arichat, and West Bay, on the Bras d'Or; and a railway has been surveyed to the latter point. , The steam- ships that ply between Boston and Prince Edward Island weekly, call at Port Hawkesbury. Fort Hastings (more generally known as Plaster Cove) is about 3 M. above Port Hawkesbury, on the Cape-Breton shore, and is built on the blufEs over a small harbor \tx which is a Government wharf. From this point the Cape-Breton mails are distributed through the island by means of the stage-lines. The village is much smaller than Port Hawkesbury, and has a lucrative country-trade, besides a large exportation of fish and cat- tle to Newfoundland and the United States. It derives its chief interest from iiieing the point where the Atlantic-Cable Company transfers its mes- sages, received from all parts of Europe and delivered under the sea, to the Western Union Telegraph Company, by which the tidings are sent away through the Dominion and the United States. The telegraph-ofiSce is in a small building near the strait. The hotel at this village has been justly execrated in several books of travel, but occupies a noble situation, overlooking, from a high bluff, the Strait of Canso for several miles to the S. E. Near this building is the consulate of the United States, over which floats the flag of the Republic. 144 RouU SS, CANSO. Nearly opposite Port Hastings is the bold and shaggy headland of Cap* Porcupine^ attaining a height of 640 ft., and contracting the strait to its narrowest part. The stream now widens slowly, with 16-20 fathoms of water, and at its N. entrance (W. side) the steamer passes a lighthouse, which Bustahis a powerful fixed white light, 110 ft. above the water, and visible from Cape St. George to Port Hood. Canso was in the earlier dayii called Campseau. or Canseau, and the word Is derived from the Indian Camaoke, which eignifles '' facing the frowning cliffs." It is alHO claimed that the name is derived from the Spanish word Ganso, eignifVing '• goose," in aU«if«ion to the great flocks of wild geese sometimes seen here. Here the Micmac traditions locate the marvellous transit of the divine Qlooscap (see page 106), who was stopped by these deep waters while on his way to attack a mighty wiz- ard in Newfoundland. He summoned from the sea a whale, who bore him across the strait, like a new Arion, and landed him on the Breton shores. For many years the Strait of Canso was called the Passage de Ft ansae, on all the old French maps and charts, in honor of the Sieur de Fronsac, the able and enter- Strising Governor of Cape Breton ; and in 1518, over a century before Plymouth wa« bunded, it was visited by the Baron de Lery, who designed forming a settlement on these shores, and left a considerable number of swine and cattle here. Savalette frequented this vicinity, for the purposes of fishing, from the year 1568 ; and in 1604 De Monts fou^d hero four Basque ships {ttom St. Jean de Luz) trading with tlie Indians. Three years later a Dutch vessel entered Canso, and excited the terri- ble hosting of the Indians by rifling the graves of their dead in order to strip off the beaver-^kins in which the corpses were wrapped. Pontgrav^ cruised about these waters for a long time, protecting the monopolized fur-trade. A fortress and rendezvous for fishermen was soon established near Cape Canso, at the harbor of Canso. In 1688 the Canso station and the sedentary fishery wera plundered by an expedition from Boston, con{:isting of a crew of West-Indian pri- vateersmen. They entered these waters in a 10-gun vessel called a barealonga, ancf carried away a French ship from the harbor. After the conquest of Acadia, the New-England fishermen occupied the harbor of Canso, and erected dwellings and warehouses. In 1720 the settlements were attacked at night by powerful Indian bands, and completely plundered, though most of the fishermen escaped to their vessels. They loaded several French vessels with the proceeds of the raid, and then retired to the forest. In 1722 the Massachusetts fishing-vessels were captured here by the Indians, and were followed by armed vessels of that Province, who retook them after a naval battle. H. M. S. Squirrel seized some illegal French traders here in 1718 ; and in 1724 a prize-vessel was boarded by the savages in the Gut of Canso, and all its crew were killed or captured. During the subsequent peace New England had 1,600 - 2,000 men here in the fisheries, and in 1788, 46,000 quintals of dry fish were exported hence. When the war-clouds were lowering, in 1787, the British had 100 soldiers in garrison here, and II. M. S. EUham was kept in the Strait as a guard- ship. In 1744 M. Duvivier attacked Canso at the head of 670 men, French Aca- dians and Micmacs, and soon captured and destroyed it. In 1745 Pepperell reached Canso with 8 regiments of Massachusetts troops and New-Hampshire and Connecti- cut regiments, and here he remained for some weeks, drilling his men and erecting fortifications. At a later day Commodore Warren arrived here with the British West-Indian fleet, the Superb, 60, Launeeston, 40, Mermaid, 40, EUham, and other ships. The British war-veseel Little Jack, 6 guns, was cruising about the Strait of Canfo in 1781, when she met two Marblehead privateers. Securing a favorable position near Petit de Grat, a shore-battery was formed, and the cutter was anchored with springs on her cable. After a sharp action, one of the privateers was crippled and forced to surrender, and the other made haste to escape. The Americans were paroled at Petit de Grat, and the vessel was taken to Quebec. After the close of the American Revolution, the S. end of the Strait of Canso was occupied by a colony of Loyalists from Florida, who suffered terribly from the com- parative inclemency of the climate. The present inliabitants of these shores are mostly of Scottish descent, a hardy and intrepid people. So late as the year 1787 there was not one settler on the Breton side of the strait, and the immigration has mostly occurred during the present century. ARICHAT. ltouU34. 145 81 Aiiohat and Ide Madama A mail-stage runs daily from Port Hawkesbury to Aricbat, 80 M. S. E., passing near the sea-sliore hamlets of Caribacou and Lower River Inhab- itants, and approaching the Scottish village of Grand Anse. At the French fishing-settlement of Grand Digue^ the passenger is ferried across the Lennox Passage, a long and picturesque strait which separates Isle Madame from the Breton shores. Steamers run from Halifax to Arichat. Isle Madame is 16 M. in length from E. to W., and about 6 M. In breadth. Its surface Is very irregular, though of but moderate elevation, and the central part is occupied by a small lake. It was settled over a century ago, by exiles from Acadia, whose descendants now occupy the land, and are pious Catholics and daring seamen. In 1760 the French explorer of Isle Madame found 113 inhabitants here, " who live as they can," on a sterile soil, and barely maintained by some petty fisheries. He closes his account by saying, " We quitted this country vith no regret, except that we must leave there so many miserable people." Ariohat (two indifferent inns) is the capital of Richmond County, and is the most important fishing-station between Halifax and St. John's, New- foundland. It has over 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of Acadian- French origin, and are connected in some way with the sea. The fisheries of which this port is the centre are connected with the great establish- ments on the Isle of Jersey (in the English Channel), like those of Cheti- camp, Gaspd, and Paspebiac. There is also an American firm located here, engaged in the canning of lobsters. The town is scattered along the steep N. shore of a spacious and secure harbor, which is sheltered by Jerseyman Island, and is " capable of containing any number of the largest ships." The spacious Catholic church in the W. part of the town is pro- vided with a chime of bells, and is the seat of the Coadjutor Bishop of Arichat, whose diocese includes Cape Breton and the E. counties of Nova Scotia. It is claimed that " The Sisters of the Congi'egation of Notre Dame, of Montreal, have a grand and flourishing academy for female edu- cation of the highest order in the town of Arichat.*' E. of the cathedral is the Richmond County Court-House, surmounted by a cupola. There are also an English academy and an Anglican church in the town. On the S. W. is seen the lighthouse, bearing a fixed red light, which guides mari- ners through the Grid Passage and into the harbor. To the W. is the settlement of Little Arichat^ extending along the coast for several miles, and having undeveloped coal deposits. There are over 1,600 inhabitants in this town, all of whom are French. 3-4 M. E. of Arichat is the Acadian fishing-hamlet of Petit de Grat, with nearly 2,000 inhabitants; and D^Escmuse is another place of similar pursuits, on the other side of the Bay of Rocks. 146 Route 35. ST. PETER'S. I 'I I ! 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, G. B. By the way of the landj through St, Peter^s. The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hawkesbury every morning, some time after the arrival of the Antigonish stage, and runs £. and N. £. to Sydney. Fare, 9 6. Tbia Is one of the most arduous routes by which Sydney can be approached, and leads through a thinly settled and uninteresting country until St. Peter's is reached. Beyond that point there is a series of attractive views of the Great Bras d'Or and St. Andrew's Channel, continuing almost to Sydney. Distances. — (Port Hastings to Port Hawkesbury, 4-5 M.) Port Hawkesbury to Orand Anfie,21 M. ; St. Peter's, 35; Bed Island, 62; Irish Cove, 64; Sydney, J>Vv* There is but little to interest the traveller during the first part of the journey. After leaving Port Hawkesbury, the stage enters a rugged and unpromising country, leaving the populous shores of Canso and pushing E. to the River Inhabitants. Crossing that stream where it begins to nar- row, the road continues through a region of low bleak hills, with occasional views, to the r., of the deeper coves of the Lennox Passage. Before noon it reaches the narrow Haulover Isthmus, which separates St. Peter's Bay, on the Atlantic side, from St. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras d'Orside. At this point is situated the village of St. Peter's (two inns), a Scottish settlement near the bay. The canal which has been constructed here to open com- munication between the Atlantic and the Bras d'Or is ^ M. long, 26 ft. wide, and 13 ft. deep, and is expected to be of much benefit to the Bras d'Or villages. It has been finished within a few years, and pertains to the Government, which takes a small toll from the vessels passing through. S. E. of St. Peter's are the bluff heights of Mt. Granville, and to the N. W. are the uninhabited highlands which are called on the maps the Sporting Mts. St. Peter's waa founded by M. Denys, about the year 1636, to command the lower end of the Braa d'Or, aa his post at St. Anne's commanded the upper end. He built a portage-road here, opened farm-lands, and erected a fort which mounted several cannon. The Indians residing on the most remote arms of the Bras d'Or were thus enabled to visit and carry their fhrs and fish to either one of Denys's forts. Denys himself, together with the fort, the ship, and all other property here, was captured soon after by a naval force sent out by M. le Borgne. But in l(i66 l)t>nys retook his posts, guarded by a charter from King Louis. A few years later St. Peter's was captured by La Giraudiere, but was afterwards restored to Denys, who, however, abandoned the island about 1670, when all his buildings at this post were destroyed by flre. In 1737 St. Peter's was fortified by M. de St. Ovide, the commandant at Louisbourg ; but during the New-England crusade against the latter city, in 1745, it was captured and plundered by Col. Moulton's Massachusetts regiment. In 1762 St. Peter's waa the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Miemacs, and was sur- rounded with fruitful farms. It was then called Port Toulottse, and was connected with Louisbourg by a military road 18 leagues in length, constructed by the Count de Raymond. Besides the garrison of French troops, there was a civil population of 230 souls ; and in 1760 Port Toulouse had grown to be a larger town than even Louisbourg itself. The King of France afterwards reprimanded the Count de Ray- mond for constructing his military road, saying that it would afford the English an opportunity to attack Louisbourg on the landward side. From the Strait of Canso to Grand River the coast is occupied by a line of humble and retired villages, inhabited by Acadian-French fishermen. 7-8 M. S. £. of St. Peter's are the VArdoise settlements (so named because a slate-quarry was once worked here). In 1760 there wag a large French village here, with a garrison of THE BRAS D'OR. Route SS. 147 troopi, and L'Ardoiw was the chief depot of the Air-trade with the Indians. At Grand River the character of the population changes, though the names of the set> tlement would indicate, were history silent, that the towns beyond that point were oiiginaily founded by the French. They are now occupied exciusively by the Scotch, whose light Teasels put out from the harbors of Grand River, L'Archevique, St. Esprit, Blancherot»e, Framboise, and Fourchu, on which are fishing-villages. A few miles N. E. of St. Peter's the stage crosses the Indian Reserva- tion near Louis Cove. Chaptl Island is a little way off shore, and is the largest of the group of islets at the mouth of St. Peter's Inlet. These islands were granted by the government, in 1792, to the Micmac chiefs Bask and Tomma, for the use of their tribe, and have ever since been re- tained by their descendants. On the largest island is a Catholic chapel where all the Micmacs of Cape Breton gather, on the festival of St. Anne, every year, and pass several days in religious ceremonies and aboriginal games. Beyond this point the road runs N. E. between Soldier's Cove and the bold highlands on the r. and traverses the Red-Island Settlement, off which are the Red Islands. " The road that skirts the Arm of Gold is about 100 M. in length. After leaving Sydney you ride beside the Spanish Kiver a short distance, until you come to the portage, which separates it from the lake, and then you follow the delicious curve of the great beach until you arrive at St. Peter's There is not a lovelier ride by white-pebbled beach and wide stretch of wave. Now wo roll along amidst pri- meval trees, — not the evergreens of the 8<>a-coast, but familiar growths of maple, beech, birch, and larches, juniper, or hackmatack, — imperishable for shipcraft; now we cross bridges, over sparkling brooks alive with trout and salmon To hang now in our curricle, upon this wooded hill-top, overlooking the clear surfitce of the lake, with leafy island, and peninsula dotted in its depths, in all its native grace, without a touch or trace of handiwork,^ far or near, save and except a siagle spot of sail in the far-off, is holy and sublime." (Cozzens.) About 10 M. beyond the Red Island Settlemeut is the way-ofBce and vil- lage at Irish Cove, whence a road runs 10 - 12 M. S. E. across the highlands to the Grand-River Lake, or Loch Lomond^ a picturesque sheet of water 5-6 M. long, studded with islets and abounding in trout. The Scottish hamlets of Loch Lomond and Lochside are on its shores; and on the N., and connected by a narrow strait, is Loch Uist, The road crosses the lake and descends to Framboise Harbor, on the Atlantic coast. N. of Loch Uist, and about 7 M. ft*om the Bras d'Or, is a remarkable saline spring, containing in each gallon 343 grains of chloride of sodium, 308 of chloride of cal- cium, and 9 of the chlorides of magnesium and potassium. This water is singularly free from sulphurous contamination, and has been found very eflicient in cases of asthma, rheumatism, and chronic headache. There are no accommodations for visitors. About 6 M. N. W. of Irish Cove is seen Benacadie Point, at the entrance to the East Bay, a picturesque inlet of the Bras d'Or, which ascends for 18-20 M. to the N. E., and is bordered by lines of bold heights. Near its N. shore are several groups of islands, and the depth of the bay is from 8 to 32 fathoms. The stage follows its shore to the upper end. Above Irish Cove the road lies between the bay and a mountain 600 ft. high, be- yond which is Cape,Iihumore. 8-4 M. farther on is Loch an Fad, beyond which a roadside chapel is seen, and the road passes on to Edoobekuk, 148 RouU 96, THE BRAS D'OR. between the heights and the blue water. The opposite shore (4 M. dis- tant) is occupied by the Indians, whose principal village is called JEacasoniy and is situated near the group of islands in Crane Cove. The bay now diminishes to 2 M in width, and is followed to its source in the lagoon of Tweednogie. The aggregate number of inhabitants, Scottish and Indian, along the shores of the East Bay, is a little over 2,000. The stage crosses the narrow isthmus (4-5 M.), and then follows the line of the Forks Lake and the Spanish River, to the town of Sydney. Sydneyt see page 150. 36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton. By the Sea, ■f'- - . ', There are several routes by sea between Halifax and Sydney, the &res being $ 8-10. The tourist should send a note to the steamship-ageats, at Halifax, for par- ticulars. The easiest route from Boston is by steamship to Port Hawkesbury, on the Strait of Cansn, and thence up the Bras d'Or. There are now several steamboats plying on the Bras d'Or, giving the best of fiusilities (flrom the Provincial point of view) for visiting the various ports and villa- ges of this lovely inland sea. Halifax Harbor, see page 93. • >;. The course of the steamship is almost always within sight of land, a cold, dai'k, and rock-bound corfst, off which are submerged ledges on which the sea breaks into white foam. This coast is described in Routes 28 and 29 ; but of its aspect from the sea the Editor can say nothing, as he was obliged to traverse the route as far as Canso by night. After passing the bold headland of Cape Canso, the deep bight of Ched- abucto Bay is seen on the W., running in to Guysborough and the Strait of Canso. Between Cape Canso and Red Po'nt, on Cape Breton, the open- ing is about 80 M. wide, inside of which are Isle Madame (Route 34) and St. Peter's Bay. The course of the vessel, after crossing this wide open- ing, converges toward the Breton coast, which is, however, low and with- out character, and is studded with white fishing-hamlets. St. Esprit is visible, with its little harbor indenting the coast. About the middle of the last century the British frigate Tilbuty, 64, was caught on this shore during a heavy gale of wind, and was unable to work off, in spite of the utmost exertions of her great crew. The Tilbury Rocks, off St. Esprit, still commemorate the place where she finally struck and went to pieces. 200 sailors T ere cither drowned or killed by being dashed on the sharp rocks, and 200 men and 15 officers were saved from the waves by the French people of St. Esprit, who nour- ished and sheltered them with tender care. England and France being then at war, the survivors of the Tilbury''s crew were despatched to France as prisoners, on the French frigate Hermione. This vessel was, however, captured in the English Chan- nel, and the sailors were released. Beyond St. Esprit the coves of Framboise and Fonrchu make in from CAPE BBETON. RouU S6. 149 ibary, on the Strait s. St. Esprit is I make in from the sea, and ^Y * the deep iolet of Gabaras Bay the lighthoose of Lonis- bourg (see Rou 38) may perhaps be seen. lu 1744 the French ahips Notre Dame de la Dilivfanee, Louis £rasme, and Marquis eTAntin sailed from Callao (Peru), with a vast amount of treasure on board, con- cealed under a surface-cargo of cocoa. The two latter were captured off the Azores by the British privateers Frince Frederick and Duke, but during the 3 hour, action the Notre Dame escaped. Not diring to approach the French coast while so many hostile privateers were cruising about, she crowded all sail and bore away for Louis- bourg. 20 days later she sigUted Scatari, and it seemed that her valuable cargo wa'' already safe. But she was met, a short distance to the S , by a British fleet, and became a prize. Among the people captured on the Notre Dame was Doa Antonio d'UUoa, the famous Spanish scientist, who was kept here in light captivity for two months, and who afterwards wrote an interesting book about Capo Breton. The lucky vessels that made the capture were the Sunderland, Boston, and Chester^ and their crews had great prize-money, — for over $4,000,000 was found on the Notre Dame, in bars and ingots of gold and silver. In 1756 the French frigate Arc-en- Ciel, 50, and the Amitii were captured in these waters by II. B. M. ships Centurion and Success. In July, 1756, the French vessels Hiros, 1\,lllustre, 64, and two 33-gun frigates met H B. M. ships Grqflon, 70, Not- tingham, «0, and the Jamaica sloop, and fought from mid-afternoon till dark. The action was indecisive, and each fleet cliiimed that the other stole away at night. The loss of men on both sides was considerable. In May, 1745, a gallant naval action was fought hereabouts between the French Bhip-of-the-line Vigilant and Com. Warren's fleet, consisting of the Suptrb (60-gun ship ) , and the Launceston, Mermaid, and Eltham (40-gun frigates). The Vigilant was carrying a supply of military goods from Brest to Louisbourg, and met the Her' maid, standing off and on in the fog. The latter made sail and fled toward the squadron, and the Vigilant swept on in the fog and ran into the midst of the Briti.Hh fleet. Warren's ships opened fire on every side, but the French captain, the Marquis de Maisonforte, refused to surrender, though his decks were covered with stores and his lower batteries were below the water-line by reason of the heavy cargo. The battle was terrific, and lasted for 7 hours, while Maisonforte kept hu colors flying and his cannon roaring until all his rigging was cut away by the British shot, the rudder was broken, the forecastle battered to pieces, and great numbers of the crew wounded or dead. The steamship now runs out to round Scatari, traversing waters which maintain a uniform depth of over 30 fathoms. On the W. is the promon- tory of Cape Breton, from which the island receives its name. It is a low headland, oflf which is the dark rock of Porto Nuevo Island. There is an old French tradition to the eflect that Yerazzano, the eminent Floren- tine navigator, landed near Cape Breton on his last voyage, and attempted to found a fortified settlement. But being suddenly attacked and overpowered by the Indians, himself and all his crew were put to death in a crnel manner. It is known to hJa- tory that this discoverer was never heard from after leaving France on his last voy- age (in 1525). It is believed that Cape Breton was first visited by the Marigold (70 tons), in 15i>3; whereof it is written : *' Here diners of our men went on land vpon the very cape, where, at their arriuall they found tlie spittes of oke of the Sauagus which had roasted meate a little before. And as they viewed the countrey they saw diners beastes and foules, as blacke foxes, deeres, otters, great foules with redde legges,pen- guines, and certaine others." Thence the Marigold sailed to the site of Louisbourg, where her crew landed to get water, but were driven off shore by the Indians. The cape probably owes its name to the fact of its being visited by the Breton and Basque fishermen, who in those days frequen>ed these seas. Cape Breton was at th it time a prosperous commercial city, near Bayonne, in the South of France. It was frequented by the Huguenots about this time, and had larcre fleets engaged in the fisheries. By the ohan^ng of the course of the Adour River, and the drifting of sand into its harbor, its maritime importance was taken away, and in 1841 ithad uut 920 inhabitants. (Dietionnaire EneyelopMique.) In 1629 Lord Ochiltree, the son of the Earl of Anan, OMne out with 00 colonists, li 150 Route S6. SYDNEY. and founded a town on the harbor of Baleine, S. E. of Cape Breton. The hcadatrong Scottish noble was arbitrary in his dealings with the French fishermen on the coast, and wns soon attaclted by a ftrong body of Normans. Tbv armor-clad Scots for a Ume defended their fort bravely, l^ut were at last compelled to surrender, and were carried off as prisoners, including Lord Ochiltree, who was plundered of all that he possessed, and was cent to France in the hold of the Great St. Andrew. In 1726 the Frcncli frigate Lr Chameau, 60, was wrecked on Porto Nucto Island, and all on board were lost. Among thcEc unfortunate people were M de Chazcl, Intcndant cf Canada; M de Louvigny, Governor of Trois Rivieres, numerous other colonial di^itarics, and Feveral crcle^iastics. " This misfortune in the course of a single night brought more grief and 1o.«r upon the French colonies tluiu they had snared during 20 years of warfare." (Charlevoix.) Eoatari Island is about 5 M. N. E. of Cape Breton, and lies on the 4Cth parallel of N. latitude. It is a rock-bound island, 8 by 4 M. in area, and is a favorite resort of sea-birds. On the E. point is a powerful revolving ■white light, and on the W. end is a fixed red light. The Halifax and Syd- ney steamers sometimes nm inside of Scatari, through the Main-a-Dieu (orMenadou) Passage, near the obscure fishing-hamlet of Main-a-Dieu. N. and W. of Scatari is the wide, deep, and unsheltered Mira Bay. After crossing the broad mouth of Mira Bay, the shallower bight of Cow Bay is seen on the 1. The vessel steams to the N., by the dark and rug- ged rock of Flint Island, and then runs about N. W. by the great coal-dis- tricts of Glace Bay and Lingan (see Route 37). Rounding the lighthouse on Low Point (or Flat Point), she ascends Sydney Harbor, passing the mines and villages of the Victoria Company on the 1., and the great shafts and works, hamlets and churches, of the General Mining Association on the r. After running by the lighthouse on the S. E. Bar, the opening of the W. Arm is seen, and the steamer soon reaches her wharf at Sydney. Sydneyi formerly the capital of the Island-Province of Cape Breton, occupies a favorable position on one of the finest harbors on the Atlantic coast, and is the chief town of the island. It has about 3,600 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 2 newspapers, a masonic hall, and the Court-House of Cape Breton County. The principal article of trade is coal, of which vast quantities are brought by railways to this harbor, whence they are sent away on vessels. Cattle and provisions are also exported from this point to St. Pierre and Newfoundland. Near the water's edge is a white build- ing, eun'ounded by balconies and adjoined by a broad pier and a flag-staff. This little estate is the headquarters of the French fleet in the North At- lantic, and is kept with true man-of-war's-man's neatness. There is usually a frigate of this fleet lying off the village, and their bands fre- quently play in the town. There is a pleasant view over the harbor from the old fort on Barrack Point. It is usually said of a fair harbor anywhere in the Australian or Ameri- can colonies, that it " is capable of containing the whole British navy." This remark has been made concerning Sydney Harbor by the best authority, Gapt. Bayfield, R. N., the marine surveyor who made the NORTH SYDNEY. JtauUSe. 151 Admiralty charts for the British North-American coast. The deep water continues above the wharves, and as fa; up as Sydney Bridge. Over 500 vessels called at this port in the summer of 1874, most of which were here freighted with coal. The harbor is usually ice-bound during the winter, from Jan. 1 to April 1, and on this account is less valuable than others more t5 the S. The town of Sydney is not attractive in its external aspects, though it is said that itfl society i** of a high order of culture and exclu; ive dignity. It poseesfies many of the social attributes of an old colonial capital, though there are now no vestiges of its former position save the deserted barracks and decaying batteries. The stranger in Sydney will be able to see all that he cares to of the town in less than an hour, for it is devoid of interest, notwithstanding the prominent position which it holds in the world's marine intelligence and shipping news. Svdney is 750 M. ttom. New York, 600 M. from Boston, 240 M. from Halifax, 400 M. from St. John's (N. F.), and 720 M. from Quebec. Railroad-tmins run from Syduey to Lo isbourg (see page 164) ; stages, to Ungan, Little Glace Bav, and Cow Bay ; ferry-boats to N. Sydney ; steamboats to Baddeck, the Bras d'Or, and the Strait of Cunso ; and steamships to St. John's (Newfound- land'), Halifax, etc. There are several small hotel* and boarding-houses at Sydney and N. Sydney, but the large and comfortable hotel which the custom of the locality seems to warrant has not yet been built. The steamship officers can recommend the best stopping* places. North Sydney is 6 - 8 M. N. W. of Sydney, with which it is connected by the steam ferry-boat Lady of the Lake, making three trips daily. It is a busy and dingy little place, and has several tanneries, a shoe-factory, and the shipping-depots of the Sydney coal-mines. There are several taverns, of the most inferior order. The marine-railway at this point was for many months occupied by the hulks and wrecked vessels which were left along the coast after the Lord's-Day Gale. About 4 M. N. W. is the French Village on the Little Bras d'Or; and a road runs 30 M. S. W. over the uninhabited highlands of the peninsula of St. Andrews, to the Grand Narrows, on the Bras d'Or Lake. The harbor of Sydney was visited in 1587 by the English ship Hopewell, which drove out a Biscayan vessel and plundered all the fish-stages along the shore. Many savages here visited the ship, " among whom was their king, whose name was Itary, and their queene, to whom also we gaue coats and kniues and other trifles. These Sauages called the harborow Gibo. In this place are the greatest multitude of lobsters that euer we heard of ; for we caught at one hawle with a little draw net abouel40." This harbor soon received the name of Bale des Espagnols, be- cause during the troublous times of the 16th century, it was the favorite resort of the Spanish fishermen, as Louisbourg was of the English, and St. Anne's of the French. In 1696 the French frigates VEnvieux and Prof and, commanded by the valiant Iberville, entered the harbor of Sydney, and summoned to its shores the Indian warriors of Gape Breton. A chosen force of Micmacs were soon embarked, and then they sailed away to the destruction of Pemaquid. This was also the station of the powerful French squadron under the Chevalier du Palais. After Admiral Walker's terribly disastrous voyage in the Gulf (in 1711), the remainder of his fleet was gathered together here, and it is said that the 42 war- vessels then assembled formed the most powerful naval armament ever seen in these waters. They lay in the roadstead, abreast of Lloyd's Cove, and the Admiral had the following pompous in- scription erected on the shore : — *' Jn nomine FcUris, Filii, et SpiritHs Saneti, Amen. Omnibus in Chritti Fideli- bus Salutem. Anna, Dei GratieB, Magn. Britannia, Franda, et HibemuB^ Rtgina; IT f: (i J I I 152 RmUeSr, THE SYDNEY COAL-PIELDa Tatiiuqut AmtrietB Septentrionalis Domina, Fidei Defensor^ etc. In Cujus hamm inmiarum vulgo Cape Breton, Proprietatis et Dominii Testimonium^ Hoc Erexit Monumentum, Sua Majeftatia Servus, et Subditu^ Jidelissimus, D. Hovenden lyeUker, Eques AurcUus, Omnium in America Narium Regaliuvi, Ptafectus et Thalassiarcha, Monte Septtmhris, Anno Salutis MDGCXI." The first civil governor of Cape Breton after its neverance from Nova Scotia (1784) mu Major Desbarres, a veteran of the campaigns of the Mohawk Valley , Lake George, Ticonderoga, Louisbourg, and Quebec. One of his chief steps was to select a site for the new capital of the inland, and the location chosen was the peninsula on the S. arm of the capacious harbor called Spanish River. The seat of government thus established was named Sydney, in honor of Lord Sydney, Secretary of State for the Colonies, who had erected Cape Breton into a separate Province. ' In the spring of 1785 the Loyalists under Abraham Cuyler (ex-Mayor of Albany, N. Y.) came from Louisbourg to Sydney, cut down the forests, and erected buildinfrs. In 1781 a sharp naval battle wa« fought off Sydney Harbor, ctween the French frigates VAstiee and VHenrnone (of 44 guns each) and a British squadron consist- ing of the Charlestown, 28, Allegiance, 16, Vulture, 16, Little Jack, 6, and the armed transport Vernon. 16 coal-ships which were under convoy of the British fleet fled into Sydney harbor, while the frigates rapidly overhauled the escort and brought on a general engagement. After a long and stubborn action, the Little Jarit surren- dered, and the remainder of the fleet would have shared the same fate, had it not been for the approach of night, under whose shelter the shattered British vessels bore away to the eastward and escaped. They had lost 18 men killed and 28 wounded. The senior captain of the victorious French vessels was La Perouse, who started in 1788, with two frigates, on a voyage of discovery around the world, but was lost, with all his equipage, on the Isle of Yanikoro. 37. The East Coast of Cape Breton.— The Sydney Coal- Fields. The Sydney Mines are on the N. side of Sydney Harbor, and are con- nected with N. Sydney by a coal-railway and also by a daily stage (fare, 75c.). They are on the level land included between the Little Bras d'Or and the harbor of Sydney, and are worked by the General Mining Asso- ciation of London. Nearly 500 men are employed in the pits, and the vil- lage has a population of 2,500. The International Mines are at Bridgeport, 13 M. N. E. of Sydney, and are connected with that harbor by a railway that cost $ 600,000. The sea- shore is here lined with rich coal-deposits, extending from Lingan Harbor to Sydney. It is probable that the submarine mining, which has already been commenced, will follow the carboniferous strata far beneath the sea. The Victoria Mines are W. of this district, and near Low Point, 9 M. from Sydney. The company has a railway which extends to their freight- ing station on Sydney Harbor, and is at present doing a prosperous busi- ness. The Lingan Mines are near Bridgeport, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage from Sydney (15 M. ; fare, $1.50). Lingan is derived from the French word L*Indienne, applying to the same place. It was occupied and fortified by the British early in the 18th century, and a garrison of 60 men was stationed here to guard the coal-mines. At a later day the French army at Louisbourg was supplied with large quantities of coal from this point, and several cargoes were sent away. During the summer THE SYDNEY COAL-PIELDa RmtUST, 153 of 1752 the mine was set on fire, and the fort and buildings were all destroyed. The Little Glace Bay Mines are 18 M. from Sydney, and are reached by atri-weekly stage (fare, $1). They are situated on Glace Bay and Glace Cove, and about Table Head, and are carried on by a Halifax com- pany, which employs 800 miners. The deposits are very rich along this shore, and extend far out beneath the sea. The Gowrie and Block-Home Mines are on Cow Bay, and are among the most extensive on this coast. They are 22 M. from Sydney, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage. They employ over 600 men, and have formed a town of 2,000 inhabitants. Large fleets gather in the bay for the transportation of the coal to the S., and while lying here are in con- siderable peril during the prevalence of easterly gales, which have a full sweep into the roadstead. Nearly 70 vessels were wrecked here during the Lord's-Day Gale, and the shores were strewn with broken hulks and many yet sadder relics of disaster. The S. portal of the bay is Cape Morien, and on the N. is Cape Perry, off which is the sea-surrounded Flint Island, bearing a revolving white light. The coal-beds of Cape Bret in were first described by Denys, in 1672, and firom 1677 to 1690 he had a royalty of 20 sous per ton on a'l the coal that was exporttjd. Some of it was taken to France, and great quantities were sent into New England. In 1720 a mine was opened at Cow Bay, whence the French army at Louisbourg was supplied, and numerous cargoes were shipped to Boston. Between 1745 and 1749 the British garrison at Louisbourg was abundantly supplied with fuel from mines at Burnt Head and Little Bras d'Or, which were protected against the Indbtns by fortified outposts. The Abb4 Raynal says that there was " a prodigious demand for Cape-Breton coal from New England from the year 1745 to 1749." But this trade wail soon stopped by the British government, and only enough mining was done to supply the troops at Louisbourg and Halifax. The " coal-smugglers " still carried on a lucrative business, slipping quietly into the harbors and mining from the great seams in the face of the cliffs. In 1785 the Sydney vein was opened by Gov. Des- barres, but its profitable working was prevented by heavy royalties. The Imperial Government then assumed the control, and its vessels captured many of the light craft of the smugglers. In 1828 the General Mining Association was formed in Lon> don, and secured the privilege of the mines and minerals of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton from the Duke of York, to whom they had been granted by King George IV. Under the energetic management of the Association the business incrc^ased rapidly, and became profitable. Between 1827 and 1857 (inclusive), 1,931,634 tons of coal were mined in Cape Breton, of which 605,008 tons were sent to the United States. Between 1857 and 1870 there were sold at the mines 3,323,981 tons. By far the greater part of these products came from the Sydney field, bat of late years consid- erable exportations are being made from the mines at Glace Bay, Cow Bay (Block- House), Gowrie, and Lingan. The Caledonia, Glace Bay, and Block-House coals are used for making gas at Boston and Cambridge, and the gas of New York ia made from International, Glace Bay, Caledonia, and Block-House coals. " In travelling from Ilawkesbury to Port Hood, and Baddeck and back again, by the Bras d'Or LukeH, one traverser a country in some places thickly settled, but all apparently well settled by a race of men physically the superior of any other on the face of this continent. They are chiefly of Highland Scotch descent, with a sprink- ling of French Canadians, and as a matter of course nearly all Roman Catholics in their religious belief. . . . The Cape Bretoners seem to be very prolific in the propaga- tion of their species. No immigration is wanted here ; only give them time, and they will compass the same ends themselves. Nothing under ten children is consid- ered a large fiunily, and those who fiUl short of this generally cousider it necessary to explain the unusual oiroumstance." ntf 154 Route S8, LOUISBOURG. ' >l : 1 I 38. The Fortress of Loaisboiirg^. Louisbourg is reached by railway (running occasional paseenger-cars) from Sydney, in 24 M. A road runs hence 15 - 18 M. N. E. along an in- teresting coast, to Cope Breton (see page 149), passing the hamlets of Big and Little Loran, "named in honor of the haughty house of Lorraine." Cape Breton itself is nearly insulated by the deep haven of Baleine Cove, and Just off its S. point is the rock of Porto Nuevo, rising boldly from the sea. Beyond the cape and the hamlet of Main-a-Dieu the Mira Bay road passes the hamlet of Catalogne (18 M. from Sydney), at the outlet of the broad lagoon of the Catalogne Lake, and follows the Mira River from the village of Mira Gut to the drawbridge on the Louisbourg road, where the farming hamlet of Albert Bridge has been established (12 M. from Sydney). A road runs hence S. W. 12 - 14 M. to Marion Bridge, a Scot- tish settlement near the long and narrow Mira Lake. The road ascends thence along ti e valley of the Salmon River to the vicinity of Loch Uist and Loch Lomond (see page 147). Gabarus Bay is 8-10 M. S. W. of Louisbourg, and is a deep and spa- cious but poorly sheltered roadstead. It has a large and straggling fishing- settlement, near the Gabarus, Belfiy, and Mira Lakes. Louisbourg at present consists of a small hamlet occupied by fisher- men, whose vessels sail hence to the stormy Grand Banks. The adjacent country is hilly and unproductive, and contains no settlements. The har- bor is entered through a passage 10 fathoms deep, with a powerful white light on the N. E. headland, and is a capacious basin with 5-7 fathoms of water, well sheltered from any wind. On Point Rochfort, at the S. W. side of the harbor, are the ruins of the ancient French fortress and city. " The ruins of the once formidable batteries, iiritb wide broken gaps (blown up by gunpowder), present a melancholy picture of past energy. The strong and capa- cious magazine, once the iieposit of immense quantities of munitions of war, is still nearly entire, but, hidden by the accumulation of earth and turf, now affords a com- modious shelter for flocks of peaceful sheep, which feed around the burial-ground where the remains of many a gallant Frenchman and patriotic Br' ton are depopitecl j while beneath the clear cold wave may be seen the vast sunken ships of war, whose very bulk indicates the power enjoyed by the Gallic nation ere England became mistress of her colonies on the shores of the Western Atlantic. Desolation now sits with a ghastly smile around the once formidable bastions. All is silent except the loud reverberating ocean, as it rolls its tremendous surges along the rocky beach, or the bleating of the scattered sheep, as with tinkling bells they return in the dusky solitude of eve to their singular folds." (Montgomery Martin.) " If you ever visit Louisbourg, you will observe a patch of dark greensward on Point Rochfort, — the site of the old burying-ground. Beneath it lie the ashes of hundreds of brave New-Knglanders. No monument marks the sacred spot, but the waves of the restless ocean, in calm or storm , sing an everlasting requiem over the graves of the departed heroes." (R. Brown.) The port of Louisbourg was called from the earliest times Havre d VAnglois, but no important settlements were made here until after the surrender of Newfoundland And Acadia to Great Britain, by the Treaty of Utrecht. Then the French troops and inhabitants evacuated Placentia (N. F.) and came to this place. In 1714 M. de St. Ovide de Brouillan was made Oovemor of Louisbourg ; and the work of building the fortress was begun about 1720. THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route S8. 156 The powerfiil defences of" the Dunkirk of America '' were hurried to completion, and the people of New England " looked with awe upon the sombre walls of liouis- bourg. whose towers rose like giants above the northern seas.'' Over 80,000,000 livres were drawn from the French royal treasury, and were expended on the forti- fications of Louisbourg ; and numerous cargoes or building-stone were sent hither from France (as if Ciipe Breton had not enough, and little else). Fleets of New« England vessels bore lumber and bricks to the new fortress ; and the Acadians sent in pupplies and cattle. For more than W years the French government devoted ail its energy and resources to one object, — the completion of these fortifications. Inhabitants were drawn to the place by bounties ; and Louisbourg soon had a large trade with France, New England, and the West Indies. The harbor was guarded by a battery of 30 28-pounder8, on Goat Island ; and by the Grand (or Royal^ Battery, which carried 30 heavy guns and raked the entrance. On the landward side was a deep moat and projecting bastions ; and the great eareening-dock wan opposite. The land and harbor sides of the town were defended by lines of rampart^ and bastions, on which 80 guns were mounted; and the West Gate was overlooked by a battery of 16 24-pounders. The Citadel was in the gorge of the King's Bastion. In the centre of the city were the stately stone church, nunnery, and ho.<«pital of St. Jean de Dieu. The streets cro8.sed each other at right angles, and communicated with the wharves by five gates in the harbor- ward wall. The fortress was in the first system of Yauban, and required a large garrison. Early in 1745 the Massachusetts Legislature determined to attack Louisbourg with all the forces of the Province ; and Gov. Shirley, the originator of the enterprise, gave the military command to Col Wm. Popperell. Massachusetts furnished 3,260 men ; New H impshire, 300 ; and Connecticut, 500 ; and George Whitefield gave the motto for the army, " Nil de.sperandum, Christo rfwre," thus making the enterprise a sort of Puritan crusade. The forces were joined at Canso by Commodore Warren's West-India fleet, and a landing was soon effected in Gabarus Bay. The garrison con- sisted of 750 French veterans and 1,500 militia, and the assailants were "4,000 un- di>' considered it " an equiTalent for all the successes of the French upon the Continent/' The siege is minutely defcribed (with maps) in Brown's " History of the Island of Cape Breton," pages 168-248. ^' That a colony iilce Massachusetts, at that time far from being rich or populous, should display such remarkable military spirit and enterprise, aided only by the smailei i*rovince of New Hampshire ; that they should equip both land and Fca forces to attack a redoubtable fortrei^s called by British officers impregnable, and on which the French Crown had expended immense sums ; .... that 4,000 rustic militia, whose officers were as inexperienced in war as their men, although supported by naval forces, should conquer the regular troops of the greatest military power of the age, and wrest from their hands a place of unusual strength, all appear little short of miracle." (Beamish Murdoch.) So keenly did the French government feel the loss of Louisbourg that the great French Armada was sent out in 1746 to retake it and to destroy Boston. After the disastrous failui-e of this expedition (see page 99), La Jonquiere was despatched with 16 men-of-war and 28 other vessels, on the same errand, but was attacked by the fleets of Anson and Warren off Cape Finisterre, and lost 9 ships of war, 4,000 men, and 9 8,000,000 worth of the convoyed cargoes. In 1749 the war was ended, Louisbourg and Cape Breton were restored to France, and '' after four years of warfore in all parts of the world, after all the waste of blood and treasure, the war ended just where it Ix.'gan." When war broke out again between England and France, in 1755, Louisbourg was blockaded by the fleet of Admiral Boscawen. England soon sent 11 line-of-battle ships, a squadron of frigates, and 50 transports, bearing 6,000 soldiers, to reduce the fortress ; but France was too prompt to be surprised, and held it with 17 sail of the line and lOfiOO men. The vast Englifih fleet got within 2 M. of Louisbourg and then recoiled, sailed to Halifax, and soon broke up, sending the army to New York and the ships to England. France then equipped fleets at Toulon and Rochfort, to reinforce Louisbourg; but the Foudroyant, 84, the Orphew, 64, and other vessels were captured. Six men-of-war and sixteen transports reached Louisbourg, with a gret t amount of military supplies. Gi-eat Britain now fitted out an immense fleet at Spithead, consisting of the Namur, 90 guns ; Royal William, SO ; Princess Amelia, 80 ; Terrible, 74 ; the North- umberland, Oxford, Burford, Vanguard, Somerset, and Lancaster, 70 guns each ; the Devonshire, Bedford, Captain, and Prince Frederick, 64 each ; the Pembroke^ Kingston, York, Prince of Orange, Defiance, and Nottingham, QO guns each; the Centurion and Sutherland, 60 each; the frigates Juno, Grammont, Nightingale^ Hunter, Boreas, Hind, IVent, Port Mahon, Diana, Shannon, Kennington, Scar- borough, Squirrel, Hawk, Beaver, Tyloe, and Halifax; and the fire-ships Etna and Lightning. There were also 118 transports, carrying 13,600 men, in 17 regiments. Boscawen commanded the fleet, Amherst the army, and Wolfe was one of the briga- diers. This powerful armament soon appeared off Louisbourg, and at dawn on the 8th of June, 1758, the British troops landed atGabarus Bay, and pushed through the fatal surf of Freshwater Cove, amid the hot fire of the Fi%nch shore-batteries. After losing 110 men they carried the entrenchments at the point of the bayonet, and the French fell back on Louit^bourg. The fortress had been greatly strengthened since the siege of 1745, and was defended by 3,400 men of the Artillery and the regiments of Volon- taires Strangers, Artois, Bourgogne, and Cambist, besides large bodies of militia and Indians. In the harbor were the ships-of-war, Prudent, 74 ; Entreprenant , 74 ; Capricieux, 64; C4lebre,M', Bienfaisant,Gi', Apollon,oOf Dtane, 36; Ar4thu.se, 86 ; Fidile, 36 ; Echo, 32 ; Biche, l6 ; ond Chivre, 16. Wolfe's brigade then occupied the old Lighthouse Battery, and opened fire on the city, the French fleet, and the Island Battery. The latter was soon completely de- stroyed by Wolfe's tremendous cannonade ; and since the harbor was thus left unguarded. Gov. Drucour sank the frigates Diane, Apollon, Biche, Fiddle, and Chivre at its entrance. Meantime the main army was erecting works on Green HiU and opposite the Queen's and Princess's Bastions, under the fire of the French ramparts and ships, and annoyed on the rear by the Indiana. During a bloody sortie by the French, the Earl of Dundonald and many of the Grenadiers were killed. The heavy siege-batteries were advanced rapidly, and poured in a crushing fire on the doomed city, destroying the Citadel, the West Gate, and the barracks. Tlw magMJne of the Entreprenant^ 74, blew up, and the Capridtuz and Cilibre, 3URG. THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. JtouU 38, 167 i of the war of 1745 " ; ' an equiTalent for all is minutely deccribed a," pages 168-248. eing rich or populous, fe, aided only by the oth iand and f ca forces egnaMe, and on which t 4,000 rustic militia, Ithough supported by t military power of the all appear little short sbourg that the great t)y Boston. After the e was despatched with i attacked by the fletta ■ war, 4,000 men, and ras ended, Louisbourg ears of warfare in all », the war ended just 1756, Louisbourg waa sent 11 line-of-battle soldiers, to reduce the I it with 17 sail of the I. of Louisbourg and le army to New York lion and Rochfort, to 64, and other vessels 1 Louisbourg, with a id, consisting of the rrible, 74 ; the North- i-^ter, 70 guns each; ach; the Pembroke, , 60 guns each ; the vmont, Nightingale, Kennington, Scar- fire-ships Etna and len, in 17 regiments, ras one of the briga- dawn on the 8th of ed through the fatal ttteries. After losing met, and the French loned since the siege regiments of Volon- bodies of militia and Entreprenant, 74 ; ►/ane,36; Arithuse, d opened fire on the soon completely de- irbor was thus left Biche, Fidiile, and orks on Qreen Hill fire of the French During a bloody le ' Grenadiers were iired in a crushing and the barracks. deux and Cilibre, catching the lire in their sails, were burned at their moorings. The AritkuM and Echo ran out of the harbor In foggy weather, but the latter was captured. Only two French rri;{ate3 remained, and these were both captured by boats from the fleet, after a dariu^ attack. On the 26th of July the Chevalier de Drucour surrendered the city, with 5,637 men, _3i) pieces of artillery, and immense amounts of stores and supplies. The French had lost about 1,000 men, the British nearly 600, during the siege All England rang with the tidings of the fall of " the Dunkirk of America," special prayers and thanksgivinKS were read in all the churches of the kingdom ; and 11 Bets of colors from Louisbourg were presented to the King at Kensington Palace, whence they were borne with great pomp to St. Paul's Cathedral. Marine insurance on Anglo-American vessels full at once from 30 to 12 p<*r cent, because the French privateers were driven from the western sea.< by the closing of their port of refuge. In 1759 the great fleet and army of Gen. Wolfe gathered at Louisbourg and sailed away to the ('onquest of Canada. Halifax was a fine naval station, and it was deemed inexpedient to maintain a costly garrison at Ix)uisbourg; so sappers and miners were sent there in the summer of 1760, and '* in the short space of six months all t!ie fortifications and public buildings, which had cost France 25 years of labor and a v:ist amount of money, were utterly demolished, — the walls and glacis lerelled into the ditch, — leaving, in fact, nothing to mark their former situation but heaps of stones and rubbish. Nothing waa left standing but the private houses, which had been rent and shattered during the siege, the hospital, and a barrack capable of lodging 300 men All the artillery, ammunition, stores, implements, — in short, everything of the slightest val le, even the hewn stones which had decorated the public buildings, were transported to Halifax." The British garrison was withdrawn in 1768, and after the foundation of Sydney " the most splendid town of La Nouvelle France " was completely deserted by its people. During some years past a scheme has been agitated whose fulfilment would restore Loui:>bourg to more than Us former iinportuace. It is proposed to construct a first-class railway from this point to some station on the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Railway, crossing the Strait of Canso either by a lofty suspension- bridge or a steam ferry-boat on which the trains would be carried. It is thought that the freight and p issonger receipts from the coal-mines and the settlements on the territory traversed would more than defray the cost of construction and mainte- nance. The projectors then intend to make Louisbourg a port of call for the ocean- steamships, for whose use this safe and accessible harbor is peculiarly adapted. This port is on the 60th parallel ofVf. longitude, and is 11 degrees E. of Boston and 14 de- grees E. of New York, or so much farther advanced on the route to Europe. When the through railway is completed to Boston, Montreal, and New York, it is thought that most of the better class, nt least, of transatlantic travellers would prefer to save time and nearly 1,000 M of ocean-voyaging, by leaving or taking the steamship here. Extensive surveys have already been made in this vicinity, and real estate in Louisbourg has rapidly advanced in value. " Baddeck was settled by Scotch Royalists, principally firom the Highlands and the islands of Mull, Lewis, and Skye. The people are proud of their descent, and still keep up many of their ancient customs. Gaelic is yet the common language among those living In the back country, and, while nearly everybody understands it to some extent, there are many who cannot speak English. Every Sunday services are held in Gaelic, which are very interesting, — the singing especially is wild and thrill- ing. Once a year the annual * Scotch Gathering ' takes place at Baddeck, and the various clans gather in all their forces, and for one day the quiet little village is full of excitement, 'ihe sounds of the fiddle and bagpipe are heard in every direction, and on wooden platforms the lads and lasses, with solemn visages, go through their flings in sets of four or eight. . . . The people raise very little grain or corn, but potatoes thrive. Strawberries ripen the latter part of July, and last until the mid- dle of August, when raspberries take their place. Some years they have very good apples in the last of September. The walks and drives through the country are very interesting, not only from the beauty of the scenery, but also for the ins^ht into the quaint, old-fashioned homes of the descendants of the Highlanders. They show true Scotch hospitality, will not take pay for food or drink, but ask > ou in thehr houses, and say ' please yourself, mon,' with everything inside, and if you desire to purchase anything will ask five times its value." (Chakdub) c ■»■ mmmm Kl ! L 158 JiouU 39. ST. ANNE'S BAY. 39. The Korth Shore of Gape Breton. — St Aime*f Bay and St. Panrs Island. Conveyances may be hired at Bnddeck (see page 162) by which to visit St. Anne*s. The distance is about 10 M. to the head of the harbor. The fii-st part of tiie way leads along the shores of Baddeclc Bay, with the promontory of Red Head over the water to the r. The road then crosses a cold district of denuded highlands, and descends to the • Vattey of St. Anne. As the harbor is approached, the traveller can see the amphitheatrical glens in which the great Holy Fairs or annual religious communions of the people are held. These quaint Presbyterian camp-meetings are said to be a relic of the ancient churches in the Scottish Highlands. The shores of the harbor were occupied in 1820 by immigrants from the High- lands, who are now well located on comfortable farms. The road follows the S. Arm, and to the 1. is seen the N. Arm, winding away among the tall mountains. Just E. of the N. Arm is St. Anne's Mt. which is 1,070 ft. high, and puslies forward cliffs 960 ft. high nearly to the water's edge. " There is no ride on the continent, of the kind, so full of picturesque beauty and constant surprises as this around the indentations of St. Anne's harbor. High bluffs, bold shores, exquisite sea-views, mountainous ranges, delicious air{" are found here in abundance. About opposite the light- house on the bar, at the mouth of the harbor, is Old Fort Pointy on which the French batteries were established. Near this point is the hamlet of Englishtown, chiefly interesting as containing the grave of the once famous " Nova-Scotia Giant." The mountains back of Englishtown are over 1,000 ft. high, and run N. E. to Cape Dauphin, whence they repel the sea. Imray's Sailing Directions states that " on the N. side the land is very high, and ships-of-war may lie so near the shore that a water-hose may reach the fresh water." As to the harbor, the ancient description of Charlevoix still holds good : — *• Port Ste. Anne, as already stated, has before it a very sure roadstead between the Cibou Islands. The port is almost completely closed by a tongue of land, leav- ing passage for only a single ship. This port, thus closed, is nearly two leagues in circuit, and is oval in form. Ships can everywhere approach the land, and scarcely perceive the winds, on account of its high banks and the surrounding mountains. .... The fishing is very abundant ; great quantities of good wood are found there, such as maple, beech, wild cherry, and especially oaks very suitable for building and masts, being 28-38 ft. high ; marble is common ; most of the land good, — in Great and Little Labrador, which are only a league and a half off, the soli is very fertile, and it can contain a very large number of settlers." In St. Anne's Bay the English ship VhancetoeU was wrecked in 1597, and while she lay aground " there came aboord many shallops with store of French men, who robbed and spoyled all they could lay their hands on, pillaging the poore men euen to their very shirts, and vsing them in sauage manner ; whereas they should rather as Christians haue aided them in that distresse." In 1629 thi^ harbor was occupied by the Great St. Amlretv and the Marguerite, armed vessels of France, whose crews, together with their English prisoners, constructed a fort to command the entrance. It was armed with 8 cannon, 1,800 pounds of powder, pikes, and muskets, and was garrisoned by 40 men. The commander of the fleet raised the arms of the King an^ Of Cardinal Richelieu over its walls, aud erected a chapel, for whose care he left two INOONISH. RouUS9. 159 Anne*! Bay and jMaits. He then named the iiarbor St. Anne's. Before the eloie of that winter more than one third of the troopH died of the aourry, and the commandant aieas- sinated bis lieutenant on the parade-^rround. In 1684 the Jesuits founded an In- dian mission here, but both tbi.s and the giurison were afterwards withdrawn. Some yearslater a new buttery and settkiiiKnt were erected here by NicholaM Deny8,Sieur de FroiiHac, who traded hcnre with tlie Indians of the N of Cape Breton. The valley of the N. Arm of St. AnneV wns granted, in 1713, to M. de RouTille, a captain in the infantry of Fraiue, and brother of that Hertel de Rouvillc who led the forces that destroyed iScbenectudy, Deerfleld, and Iltiyerhill. The N. Arm was long called RouvilleV't River. At a later day Costabelle, Ueiiiirourt, Soubras, and other French officers had fl.shing-.stations on the bay. In 1745 a frtgnto from Com. Warren's fleet (then blockading Louisbourg) entered the harbor, and destroyed all the property on its shores. St. Anne's Bay was afterwards called Port Dauphin by the French, and the government long hesitated as to whether the chief fortress of Cape Breton should be located here or at Louisbourg. The perfect security of the harbor afforded a strong argument in favor of St. Anne's, and it seemed capable of being made impregnable at slight expense. After the foundation of Louisbourg 1,000 cords of wood were sent to that place annually from St. Anne's. The road from the Bras d'Or to the N. shore of Cape Breton diverges from the St. Anne road before reaching the harbor, and bears to the N. E., along the W. Branch. It rounds the North -River Valley by a great curve, and then sweeps up the harbor-shore, under the imposing cliffs of St. Anne's Mt. From St. Anne's to Ingonish the distance is about 40 M., by a remarkably picturesque road between the mountains and the Atlantic, on a narrow plain, which recalls Byron's lines: — " The mountains look on Marathon, And Marathon looks on tlie sea." " Grand and very beautiful are the rocky gorges and ravines which Airrow the hills and precipices between St. Anne's and Tngonish Equally grand and pic- turesque is the red syenitic escarpment of Smoky Cape, capped with the cloud from which it derives its name, with many a lofty headland in the background, and the peak of the Sugar-loaf Mountain just peeping above the fJEur-distant hori« Bon." (Brown.) The proud headland of Cape Smoky (the Cap EnfumS of the French) is 950 ft. high, and runs sheer down into the sea. To the \V. there are peaks 1,200-1,300 ft. high; and as the road bends around the deep bights to the N., it passes under summits more than 1,400 ft. high. Among these mas- sive hills, and facing Capo Smoky, is the village of Ingonish, inhabited by Scottish Catholic fishermen, 800 of whom are found in this district. On the island that shelters the harbor is a fixed white light, 237 ft. above the sea, and visible for 15 M. Ingonish was one of the early stations of the French. In 1729 a great church was built here, whose foundations only remain now ; and in 1849 a church-bell, marked St. Malo, 1729, and weighing 200 pounds, was found buried in the sands of the beach. The settlement hero was probably ruined by the drawing away of its people to aid in holding Louisbourg against the Anglo-American forces. In 1740 Ingonish was the second town on the island, and its Heet caught 13,560 quintals of fish. It was destroyed, in 1745, by men-of-war from Com. \Varren's fleet. The highland region back of Ingonish has always been famous for its abundance of game, especially of moo.se and caribou. In the winter of 1789 over 9,000 moose were killed here for the sake of their skins, which brought ten shillings each ; and for many years this wholesale slaughter went on, and vessels knew when they were approaching the N. shore of Cape Breton by the odor of decaying carcasses which came from the shore. Finally the outraged laws of the Province were vindicated by the occupation of Ingonish by a body of troops, whose duty it was to restrain tlw I 'I;'! 160 Route S9. ST. PAUL'S ISLAND. moose-hanten at whatever cost. Of late veara the mooso have been nearly extern minated by city sportsmen and by the Indians, who kill them 'while helplosoly en- tangled in the deep snow-drifts. Tbe scenery between Baddeck and Ingonish rei*embles that of the North of Scotland, but is even more picturesque. Many officers from the Haii£stx garrison have sought its moose and trout. The highway ends at Ingonish, and a trail crosses the mountains to the N. N. W. to Aspy Bay^ an open bight of the sea, into which several large lagoons empty. A specie-ship was wrecked off this bay early in the pres- ent century, and for many years coins were thrown ashore during heavy- storms. In 1856 the first Atlantic Cable was landed here. On the N. W. shore of Aspy Bay is the lofty Sugar-loaf Mt., beyond which Cape North runs out to the N. E., 1,000 ft. high. Cape North is 8 M. S. E. by E. from Cape St. Lawrence, and between these two points is the St. Lawrence Bay^ on whose remote shores are about 400 inhabitants, while about Cape North are nearly 800 more. Between Cape North and Cape Ray, Newfoundland, the distance is 65 M., and through this wide strait is the middle entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. St. PauVs Island. St. Paul's Island is 18 M. E. N. E. of Cape North, and is a vast mass of rock, 3 M. long and 1 M. wide, bearing three peaks 500 ft. high, sur- rounded by tali cliffs which reach far below the water, and indented by the Trinity and Atlantic Coves. The cod, mackerel, and seal fisheries around the island are very valuable ; and the adjacent waters are of great depth, and form a constant current to the S. E. St. Paul's Island has 9 inhabitants; a fixed white light (visible for 20 M.) on the N. point; a pro- vision depot for wrecked sailors in Trinity Cove; a steam fog-whistle in Atlantic Cove ; and on the S. point a revolving white light of the first class, visible for 20 M. This island has been one of the most fatal points on the Atlantic coast, stretching, as it does, across sucli an important route of marine travel. Thousands of lives have been lost here, and human bones formerly strewed the beaches, while anchors, chains, and other relics of disaster were found in the neighboring waters. The Acadians of Gheticamp VEed to Tisit the island every spring, in order to secure the valuable parts of cargoes and wrecks which tbe fea threw up on the shore. Among the largest of the vessels lost here were the Horatio, Canada, Duncan, Venus, a transport with 200 soldiers (all drowned), the ocean-steamship Norwegian, and the Bhip Jesiie. The latter was wrecked in mid-winter, and 80 of her people were lost ; but 11 reached the shore, and wandered about until they were all frozen to death. With the present system of lights, whistles, and cannon, most of the danger of this island is removed. '^ A dome of inhospitable rock peers through the mist, one of nature's peniten- tiaries, which no living man would own, and so has been deeded to St. Paul : Melita is Eden to it. The saint?, it appei.i8 to me, have been gifted with thcruggcdest odds and ends.' Wlierever, on all these cast-iron shores, there is a flinty promontory, upon which Prometheus himself would have shuddered to be chained, there the name of an apostle has been transfixed. Yonder is Cape North, the stony arrow- head of Cape Breton, a headland, rather a multitudinous group of mountain head- lands, draped with gloomy grandeur, against the black clifb of which the surf is now firing its sno\7y rockets All in all, this is a fine termination of the pic- turesque isle. Steep and lofty , its summits are darkened by steepled evergreens, and iti many sides gashed with horrid fissures and ravines." (L. L. N0BI.S.) THE BBAS D*OR LAKES. RouU 40. 161 40. The Bras d'Or Lakes. The "Inland Route" between Sydney and Halifax. There are BeTenil Bteamen plying on the Bras d'Or, making daily trips in pummer. Tliey le«Te Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Ganno^after the arrival of the Halifax maiUtrain, and run out eastward, by Isle Madame, and up St. Peter's Bay. Traveraing the recently completed St. Peter's Canal by St. Peter's village, the boats descend St. Peter's Inlet, bv Chapel Island and the Micmac Indian Reservation (for all this region, see pages 148-7), and run out into the Great Bras d'Or After visiting the various ports on the lakes, they round Point Aconi, and run around to Sydney daily. The agent at Halifax can give particulars of sailings, etc. The construction of the rail- Wiij from New Glasgow to the Strait, and nf the canal, have made the Bras d*Or very accessible, and removed the trials which hedged about this delightftil trip The routes taken down the lakes are various. We give the old route of the Ifep- tune^ although the usual journey now is down the Great Bras d'Or. After leaving the wharves of Sydney, the steamer passes up to N. Syd- ney, where she makes a short stop, then nins to the N. E. out of Sydney Harbor, with the shafts and villages of the Sydney Mines on the 1. After rounding Cranberry Head the course is N. W. for 8-9 M., in the ocean, passing the surf-beaten Bird Rock on the 1., while the stately mountains towards St. Anne's and Ingonish (see page 159) are seen in advance. When within 2-3 M. of Point Aconi the vessel turns in to the 1., and soon enters the strait called the * Little Bras d'Or, a narrow and river-like pas- sage through which the tide sweeps rapidly, and which is impassable for large craft. The water-view is sometimes limited to a few score feet, so tortuous and landlocked is the channel ; and there are several small and picturesque hamlets on the shore, mostly inhabited by immigrants from the Hebrides. On the r. side of the channel is Boularderie Island, which is about 85 M. long by 2 - 8 M. wide, and supports a small farming population. Jn 1713 this rich and beautiful island was granted by the French Crown to M. de la Boularderie, an officer of tfie French navj% who had greatly dis- tinguished himself in the defence of Port Royal and of Placentia. It is now occupied by Highlanders, who number about 1,300, and have several small hamlets. On the N. end of the island is the coal-field of Point Aconi, which has not been operated for several years. The * Great Bras d'Or is the channel on the W. side of Boularderie, and is always used by ships and large coasters bound into the lakes. It has from 6 to 38 fathoms of water, and is much grander in scenery than is the E. channel. The lake-steamers usually traverse this strait, rounding Point Aconi, and approaching the sea-repelling mountains of St. Anne's and Ingonish. On the N. are seen the Ciboux Islands, sheltering St. Anne's Bay (see page 158), and marked by a revolving red-and- white light, which is visible for 14 M. On the r. the dark and wind-swept Cape Dauphin is approached, terminating, in a peak 1,045 ft. high, the massive ridge which occupies the peninsula of St. Ann6. Beyond the lighthouse on Black Rock Point (1. side), the steHmer passes through a strait ^ M. wide, and then enters the Great Bras d'Or, which is 1-8 M. wide, and is followed to the 169 Itoute 40. BADDECK. I • m; i 11 I S. W. for nearly 80 M., between the mountains of St. Anne and the hi|^- lands of Boularderie. The Neptune soon traverses the narrow channel of the Little Bras d*Or and enters a broader bay. Bej'ond Grove Point it reaches a beautiful sound which is followed for 25 M., and is 3-4 M. wide. (It is called St. Andrew^i Channel on the Admiralty charts, but that name is elsewhere ap^ plied to the East Bay.) Near George Mt., on the 1., are the low shores of Long Island; and the steamer sometimes stops off Beaver Harbor, or Bois- dale. The course is now laid towards the W. shore, rounds Kempt Head, the S. extremity of Boularderie Island, and passes Coffin Island on the r., beyond which is seen the long channel of the Great Bras d'Or. The course is nearly N. W., and lies between Red Point (r. side) and Mackay Point (1. side /, which are about 3 M. apart. In front is seen the village of Baddeck, while inside of the points Baddeck Bay extends to the r. and St. Patrick's Channel to the 1. Baddeck ( Telegraph House, comfortable; Bras d* Or Hotel) is the capi- tal of Victoria County, and the chief village on the Bras d'Or. It has three churcjhes, a court-house, and a quaint little jail, and is the centre of a group of farming-settlements whose aggregate population is 1,749. The harbor can accommodate vessels of 600 tons, and from this point several cargoes of produce are annually sent to Newfoundland. Gold has been found in the vicinity, and there is a saline spring farther down the shore. This locality was first visited by the French, from whom it received the name Bedeque^micQ Scotticized to ^a(^(/ecX;( accent on the last syllable). It wac first settled by the disbanded soldiers of the Boyal Rangers, and in 1793 there were 10 inhabitants here. " Althoujfh it was Sunday, I could not but notice that Baddeck was a clean- iooking village of white wooden houfies, of perhaps 7 - 800 inhabitants ; that it stretched along the shore for a mile or more, straggling off into farm-houses at each end, lying for the most part on the sloping curve of the bay. There were a few counti^-looking stores and shops, and on the shore three or four rather decayed and shaky wharves ran into the water, and a few schooners lay at anchor near them ; and the usual decaying warehouses leaned about the docks. A peacefhl and perhaps a thriving place, but not a bustling place " Having attributed the quiet of Baddeck on Sunday to religion, we did not know to what to lay the quiet on Monday. But its peacefulness continued. I have no doubt that the farmers began to farm, and the traders to trade, and the sailors to sail ; but the tourist felt that he had come into a place of rest. The promise of the red sky the evening before was fVilfllled in another royal day. There was an inspira- tion in the air that one looks for rather in the mountains than on the sea-coast, ifc seemed like some npw and gentle compound of sea-air and land-air, which was the perfection of breathing material. In this atmosphere, which seems to flow over all these Atlantic isles at this season, one endures a great deal of exercise with little &tigue ; or he is content to sit still and has no feeling of sluggishness. Merc living Is a kind of happiness, and the easy-going traveller is satisfied with little to do and less to see. Let the reader not understand that we are recommending him to go to Baddeck. Far Arom it There are few whom it would pay to go a thousand miles for the sake of sitting on the dock at Baddeck when the sun goes down, and watching the purple lights on the islands and the distant bills, the red flush on the horison and on the lake, and the creeping on of gray twilight. You can see all this •■ well elsewhere? I am not so sure. There is a harmony of beauty about the BADDRCK. itouu 40, 163 Anne and the hlg^- Bns d'Or ftt Baddeek which Is laeking in manj 'teenes of more inreteiurion." (Charles Dodlet Wabnkb's Baddeek; and that Sort of Viing.) The tourist who stops at Baddeek should visit the Indian village which occup'es a grassy point near the town. It pertains to one of the clans of the Micmac tribe, and usually has 12-15 wigwams. Visitors are received with a not unkindly indifference, and may here study Indian domestic life, the curious manner of carrying babies, and the architecture of the wigwam. Some of the people can talk English. The visitor should en- deavor to see one of the Micmac Catholic prayer-books, printed (at Vienna) in a singular hieroglyphic, and bought by the Indians at the Trappist mon- astery in Tracadie. The camp at Baddeek is broken up in the autumn and the people retire to their reservations near the hunting-grounds. The Micmacs of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton still retain many of their ancient customs, and are of purer blood than any other tribe on the Atlantic coast. They number about 1,600 (and 1,400 in New Brunswick), and occupy several reservatioiu in the Province, where they are cared for and protected by the Dominion govem- Dient. Under this paternal care (strongly contrasting with the Indian policy of ths United States) the aborigines are steadily increasing in numl)er8 and approaching & better standard of civilization, and are loyal and useful subjects of their " great mother," Queen Victoria. The discipline of families is well preserved by the use of corporeal punishment. Warm parental affection is a strongly marked feature, and the subordination of the women is still maintained, though ameliorated by Che in- fluences of civilization. The Micmacs have exchanged their former belief in and worship of tlie hostile principles of good and evil for the creed of the Roman Cath- olic Church, of which they are devout communicants. Their language has many curious verbal coincidences with that of the Qaelic race, and is said to be " copious, tlexible, and expressive." Philologists have also tiaced a marked analogy between theOreek and Micmac languages, basing thereon a sharp rebuke to Renan's Qippant attack on the aboriginal tongues of America. Bnddeck to Whycocomagh, see T?oute 41. Baddeek to St. Anne's Bay, see Route 39. A road runs from this point nearly N. for 10 M. to tlie forks of the Big Baddeek River, where trout are found. To the N. are the Baddeek Mts., an unexplored and savage highland region which ex- tends for 100 M. to the N., as far as Cape North, with a breadth of 15-26 M. This mountain-region has been a i'avorite hunting-ground for moose and caribou, which are now carefully preserved by Provincial game-laws ; and it also contains bears, wolves and foxes, rabbits and hares, beaver, mink, and muskrats. The Margaret River may be reached from Baddeek (in 28 M.) by a picturesque road, ascending the long valley, and crossing the Hunter's Mt., with fine views over the Bras d*Or. The pleasant rural district of the Middle Valley is then traversed, and the road leads through a remark- able pass of the hills and enters the rich valley of the Margaree, famous for Its fishing (see Route 42). Visitors to this district usually board in the farm-houses, where plain and substantial fare is given. The Middle River lies to the W. of Baddeek, and is approached by the Whyco- comagh road (Route 41). The valley has over 1,000 inhabitants, of the Qaelic High- land race, many of whom are unacquainted with the English language. Near their settlements are prolific trout-streams, where fine sport may he enjoyed in the early summer. The chief settlements are respectively 12, 18, and 16 M. from Baddectc, and near the head of the river is an undeveloped gold district. A few milet up thi* 164 Route 40. THE BRAS D'OR. ! I river is " a Oaelic nettlement of fhrmen. The riTer here flows thraneh lovely mead' ows, sandy, fertile, and sheltered by hills, — a green Eden, one of ue few pfaeefVU Inhabited spots in the world. I could conceive of no news coming to these High- landers later than the defeat of the Pretender. " In 1801 the total population of the Island of Cape.Breton was 2,513, including Englishmen, Acadian^, and Micniacs. In 1802 the firfit emigrant-ship arrived at Sydney from Scotland, and since that time over 25,000 Scottish immigrants have landed and settled on this inland. They rapidly spread over the W. coast and occu* pied the shores of the Kras d'Or and its connected waters, and Cape Breton is now, and probably will ever be, a Scottish land. After the dispersal of the Highland clans and the final pacification of Northern Scotland, the chieftains and nobles found it more profitable to devote their estates to cattle-raising than to maintain the old ten- antry system. So thousands of poor tenant-farmers were expelled from their head- ings and their ancient homes to make room for deer-parks or 8he<>p-farms among (he glens. Driven forth against their will, they cros.'^ed the Atlantic to settle on the New-World shores, in a fairer but less honored land. The selfish policy of the powerful nobles depopulated broad districts of the Highlands. *' Many who had friends in the colonies, and knew what they had to expect, emigrated with great alacrity ; but thousands, who had no such desire, on the contrary the greatest repugnance to leave the land of their fathers, the familiar hills, and the green tlopes of Lochaber, were heart-broken at the idea of being separated from them by a thousand leagues of raging sea." This hardy rural population is peculiarly adapted io develop a new country like Cape Breton, and can also endure the great fluctu- ations of the climate, which range from 32° below zero to 96° above. The descend- ants of these immigrants are superior to the native Highlanders, both physically and mentally, and pay more attention to the education of their ciiildren and to the general estate of the nation. On leaving Baddeck the steamer runs out around Mackay's Point, and ascends the * Little Bras d' Or Lake, to the S. W. This sheet of water i' 6 - 6 M. wide, and is bordered on the E. by the peninsula of St. Andrew and the hills back of Sunacadie and Christmas Island, and on the W. by the highlands of the Watchabaktchkt peninsula. " The most electric American, heir of all the nervous diseases of all the ages, could not but find peace in this scene of tranquil beauty, and sail on into a great and deepeni'jg contentment. Would the voyage could last for an age, with the same sparkling but tranquil sea, and the same en- vironment of hills, near and remote. The hills approached and fell away in lines of undulating grace, draped with a tender color which helped to carry the imagination beyc-id the earth. " Certainly, as we glided out upon the summer waters and began to get the graceful outline of the widening shores, it seemed as if we had taken passage to the Fortunate Isles It was enough to sit on deck forward of the wheel-house, and absorb, by all the senses, the delicious day. With such weather perpetual and such scenery always present, sin in this world would soon become an impossibility." (Warner's Baddeck.) 12-15 M. from Baddeck is the * Strait of Barra (or Grand Narrows), so named because the inhabitants of the adjacent shores came from the island of Barra, in the Hebrides. The strait is picturesque, and is 2 M. long and 1 M. wide. On the shore are a conspicuous Catholic church and a lighthouse; and the inhabitants are nearly all Campbells and McNeils. The steamer now enters the * Oreat Brai d'Or Lakei a noble expanse of water with a depth of firom 15 to 67 fathoms. It is difficult fo state its THE BRAS FOR. RmUe 40. 165 [ue, and is 2 M. size, on aceonnt of the nnmerous deep bays, bat from the Strait of Barra to the S. shore it is 18 M. long (N. and S.), and from Malaga wdatchkt it is nearly 20 M. (E. and W.). From the head of West Bay to the head of East Bay, a vessel co.uld sail in a straight course nearly 50 M. " The Bras d'Or Is the most beautifiil salt-water lake T hare ever seen, and more beautiful than we had imagined a body of salt water could be The water seeks out all the low places, and ramifies the interior, running away into lovely bays and lagoons, leaving slender tongues of land and picturesque islands, and bringing into the recesses of the land, to the remote country farms and settlements the flavor of salt, and the fish and molluska of the briny sea. There is very little tide at any time, so that the shores are clean and sightly for the most part, like those of a Acesh- water iake. It has all the pleasantness of a fresh-water lake, with all the advaa> tagea of a salt one. In the streams which run into it are the speckled trout, the shad, and the salmon ; out of its depths are hooked the cod and the mackerel, and in its bays fatten the oyster. This irregular lake is about 100 M. long, if yon meas- ure it skilfully, and in some places 10 M. broad ; but so indented ia it, that I am not sure but one would need, as we were informed, to ride 1,000 M. to go round it, following all its incursions into the land. The hills around it are never more than 6-600 ft. high, but they are high enough for reposeful beauty, and offer every where pleasing lines." (Warmeh's Baddeck ) Soon after passing the Strait of Barra the broad estuary of the River Denys is seen on the r. Deep ship-channels may be followed thither, pass- ing at first through a cluster of islets, and then into the North Basin, whence the Portage Inlet runs N. to within ^ M. of the Whycocomagh Basin. The Inner Basin is 7 M. long and 2 - 3 M. wide, and is sometimes visited by ships, which load here with lumber for England. The River Denys debouches into the S. W. angle of this basin. There are five ham- lets of from 150 to 300 inhabitants each, situated on the basins and the river, most of the people being from the Western Isles of Scotland. The ancient Indian name for the Bras d'Or was Bideauboch ; St. Patrick's Channel was called Ouamech; the River-Denys Basin, Mirmini^vash; the West Bay, Pcujue- lacarJie; and the East Bay, Piscnbouash. For the convenience of trading with the numerous Indians who inhabited the.se shores, M. Denys established his forts at St. Peter^s and St. Anne's ; but there is no record of settlements by the French on the lakes. The chief seat of the Indians is now on the shore where " Escasoni's fountains Pour down their crystal tide." The beautiful basin and river of Denys were named in honor of their discoverer, Nicholas Denys, Sieur de Fronsac, who was appointed by King Louis, in 1651, " Governor and Lieu tenant-General " of Gape Breton and the adjacent shores. When the steamer is about 4 M. from the Strait of Barra, Benacadie I'oint is seen on the 1., 7-8 M. distant, below which is the great opening of the East Bay or St. Andrew's Channel, running in to the N. E. for nearly 25 M. (see page 147). 10- 12 M. below the strait is the open'ng of the long and sinuous harbor of Malagawdatchkt, which approaches the marble formations of the >vestern liighlands, and has a village of 360 in- habitants. To the S. E. are the islands off St. Peter'' s Inlet. Opening away on the right is the S. W. arm of the Great Bras d'Or, which is called the West Bay, or St. George's Channel, and is about 15 M. long and 7 M. wide. It contains numerous islands, and is separated from ! :,iiil i ''11' 166 Boute 40. THE BRAS D'OB. the River-Denys Basin by a range of massive highlands on the N. Tlie N. shore hills are 700 - 770 ft. high, and those on the S. shore are 26d - 630 ft. high. The shores are thinly inhabited, and the only hamlets are at the head. " The only other thing of note the Bras d^Or offered ns before we reached West Bay was the finest nhow of medusae or jelly-fit^h that could be produced. At first there were dozens of these disk-shaped transparent creatures, and then hundreds, starring the water like marguerites sprinkled on a meadow, and of sizes from that of a teacup to a dinner-plate. We soon ran into a school of them, a conventiou^ a herd as extensive as th* vast buffalo droves on the plains, a collection as thick as eloTer-blossoms in a field in June, miles of them apparently ; and at length the boat had to push its way through a mass of them which covered the water like the leaves of the pond-lily, and filled the deeps far down with their beautiful contracting and expanding forms I did not suppose there were so many jelly-fishes in all the world." (WARNEB's Badderk.) "The scenery of the lakes is exceedingly striking and diversified. Long rocRy clifl!) and escarpments rise in some places abruptly froiTi the wat«r's edge ; in others, undulating or mllitjg hills predominate, fringed on th"" iihores by low white cliOs of gypsum or red conglomerate ; whilst the deep basins and channe'*, which branch off in all directions from the central expanse of waters, studded witn innumerable Lolets covered with a rich growth of spruce and hemlock, present views the most picturesque and diversified imaginable." (Brown.) " The scenery, of this vast inlet is in some places beautifully picturesque, and in some others moi^otonous and uninteresting, but in many parts of a sublime charac- ter, which exhibits the sombre gloom of pine forests, the luxuriant verdure of broad Talieys and wooded mountains, and the wild features of lofty promontories frowning in stubborn ruggedness over the waters of the rivers and inlets." (M'Qregob ) *' So wide is it, and so indented by broad bays and deep coves, that a coasting journey around it is equal in extent to a voyage across the Atlanlic. Besides the distant mountains that rise proudly from the remote shores, there are many noble Islands in its expanse, and forest-covered peninsulas, bordered with beaches of glit- tering white pebbles. But over all this wide landscape there broods a spirit of !>rimeval solitude For, strange as it may seem, the Golden Arm is a very use- ess piece of water in this part of the world ; highly favored as it is by nature, land- locked, deep enough for vessels of all burden, easy of access on the Gulf side, flree ttom fogs, and only separated from the ocean at its southern end by a narrow strip of land, about i M. wide ; abounding in timber, c\ i, and gypsum, and valuable for its fisheries, especially in winter, yet the Bras d'Ur is undeveloped for want of that elemeut which seems to be alien to the Colonies, namely, enterprise.^^ (Cozzens.) '■ The climate of Baddeck in summer is delightful, the nights being always cool and tliu heat of the day never oppressive ; ou only one occasion last July did the thermometer indicate 80°. The air has a life and an elasticity in it unknown ia lower latitudes during the summer months. . . . The water-view is ono of the finest to bo found on the Atlantic coast. The clear blue waters of the Bras d'Or, here seven or eight miles wide, arc apparently hemmed in by ranges of mountains, which in some places rise abruptly from the water in lofty cliffs of plaster or gypsum, worn by the action of water into strange and fantastic forms. These white cliffs, fringed with dark evergreens, form, with the red conglomerate and bright green fields stretching down to the water's edge, a most beautiful picture, which is appro- priately framed with long lines of mountains. The Bras d'Or, though an arm of the sea, has here a tide of only from six to eighteen inches, so that those fond of aquatic pursuits are not burdened with a head current when homeward bound." (OUASDLEB.) ST. PATRICK'S CHANNEL. Houte il. 167 ''." (C0ZZ£N8.) 41 Baddeok to Mabon and Port Hood. — St Patrick*! Channel and Whycocomagh. This route Is traTened by the Royal mail-stage on Monday and Wednesday, lear- ing Baddectc at noon, and reaching Whycocomagh after 4 o'clock, and Habon at 9 P.M. The distance is about 60 M. ; the ftre is 9 2 50. Tlie Royal mail-stage on thla route is a one-horse vragon ^ith a single seat, so that the accommodations for trayel are limited. Mr. Warner thus describes the road between Whycocomagh and Baddeck: " From the time we first struck the Bras d'Or for thirty miles we rode in constant sight of its magnificent water. Now we were two hundred feet above the water.on the hiU'- side skirting a point or following an indentation ; and now we were diving into a narrow valley, crossing a stream, or turning a sharp comer, but always with th« Bras d'Or in view, the afternoon sun shining on it, softening the outlines of its «n> bracing hills, casting a shadow from its wooded islands. Sometimes we opened apon a broad water plain bounded by the Watchabaktchkt hills, and again we looked over bill after hill receding into the soft and hazy blue of the land beyond the great maaa of the Braa d'Or The reader can compare the view and the ride to the Bay of Naples and the Cornice Road ; we did nothing of the sort ; we held on to the seat, prayed that the harness of the pony might not break, and gave constant ezpreftdon to our wonder and delight." St. Patrick's Channel is 20 M. long by 1-8 M. wide, aud is made highly picturesque by its deep coves, wooded points, and lofty shores. Its general course is followed by the highway, affording rich views from some of the higher grades. After leaving Baddeck the road strikes across the country for about 5 M. to the Baddeck River, in whose upper waters are large trout. Beyond this point the road swings around the blue expanse of Indian Bay, approaching a bold hill-range 660 ft. high, and crosses the , Middle River, at whose mouth is an Indian reservation. Frequent glimpses are afforded of St. Patrick's Channel, well to the 1. across the green mead- ows. A range of lofty heights now forces the road nearer to the water, aud it passei; within 2 M. of the remarkable strait known as the Litth Narrowff about which there are 150 inhabitants. A road leads N. W. 6 M. into Ainslie Glen, and to the great Alnslie I If '! ml i\i iiii HI 168 ItouU49, WHYCOCOMAGH. whence small cargoes of produce are annually shipped to Newfoundland. Near this point is a marble cave, with several chambers 6 - 8 ft. high; and foxes are oAen seen among the hills. Ii is claimed that valuable deposits of magnetic and hematitic iron-ore have been found in this vicinity. Stages run 80 M. S. W. from Whycocomagh to Port Hastings, on the tame and uninteresting road known as the Victoria Line. *' What we first saw was an inlet of the Bras d'Or, called by the drirer Hogamah Bay. At its entrance were long, wooded islands, beyond which we saw the backs of graceftil hills, like the capes of some pottic Eea-coast .... A peaceful place, this Whycoconiagh. The lapsing waters of the Bras d'Or made a summer music t^ tlODg the quiet street ; the bay lay rmiling with its islands in front, and an amphi- theatre of hills rose beyond." ( WAaNEB's Baddeck.) On leaving Whycocomagh the quaint double peaks of Salt Mt. are seen in retrospective views, and the road soon enters the Skye Glen, a long, narrow valley, which is occupied by tlie Highhinders. The wagon soon reaches the picturesque gorge of the Mabou Valley, with the mountainous mass of Cape Mabou in front. The Mull River is seen on the 1., glitter- ing far below in the valley, and erelong the widenings of the sea are reached, and the traveller arrives at the wretched inn of Mabou. The stage for Port Hood (10 M. S.) leaves at noon, reaching Port Hastings at 7.30 P. M. (see Route 42). The Bras d'Or steamer ascends St. Patrick's Channel to Whycocomagh every week, on its alternate trips passing around from Sydney to the Channel by way of the Great Bras d'Or (Sydney to Whycocomagh, S 2). This route is much easier for the traveller than that by the stage, and reveals as much natural beauty, if made during the hours of daylight. The passage of the Little Narrows and the approach to Whycocomagh are its most striking phases. 42. The West Coast of Cape Breton. —Port Hood and Mar- garee. The Royal mail-stage leaves Fort Hastings every evening, at about 4o^clock, after the arrival of the Halifax mail-train. Fare to Port Hood, $ 2 ; $ 1 by steamer, in Bummer. Distances. — Port Hastings to Low Point, 7 M. ; Creignish, 9 ; Long Point, 14 ; Judiqiie, 18; Little Judique, '24; Port Hood, 28; Mabou, 38; Broad Cove Inter- vale, 66 ; Margaree Forks, 68; Margaree, 76 ; Gheticamp, 88. The first portion of this route is interesting, a.s it affords frequent pleas- ant views of the Strait of Canso and its bright maritime processions. The trend of the coast is followed from Port Hastings to the N. W., and a suc- cession of small hamlets is seen along the bases of the highlands. Just beyond Low Point ig the Catholic village of the same name, looking out over the sea. The road now skirts the wider waters of St. George's Bay, over which the dark Antigonish Mts. are visible. Beyond the settlements of Creignish and Xx)ng Point is the populous district of Judique^ inhab- PORT HOOD. Route 4S. 169 ited by Scottish Catholics, who are devoted to the sea and to agricnltara. The Jndiquers are famons throughout the Province for their ^^ t stature, and are well known to the American fishermen on account oi their pug- nacity. Yankee crews landing on this coast are frequently assailed by these pugilistic Gaels, and the stalwart men of Judique usually come off victorious in the fistic encounters. The district has about 2,000 inhab- itants. Port Hood (two inns) is the capital of Inverness County, and is a pic- turesque little seaport of about 800 inhabitants. The American fishermen in the Gulf frequently take shelter here during rough weather, and 400 sail have been seen in the port at one time. There are large coal-deposits in the vicinity, which, however, have not yet been developed to any extent. The town was founded by Capt. Smith and a party of New- Englanders, in 1790. " This port affords the only safa anchorage on the W. coast of Cape Breton to the N. of the Gut of Canso," and is marked by a red-and-white light, near the highway, on the S. Off shore is Smith's Island, which is 2 M. long and 210 ft. high, beyond which are the high shores of Henry Island. The Magdalen-Islands steamer touches at Port Hood (see Route 49) and a stage-road runs N. E. to Hillsborough, where if, meets the road from Mabou, and thence passes E. to Whycocomagh (see page 167). Mabou (uncomfortable inn) is 10 M. N. E. of Port Hood, and is reached by a daily stage passing along the shore-road. It is at the mouth of the broad estuary of the Mabou River, amid bold and attractive scenery, and contains about 800 inhabitants. To the N. E. is the highland district of Cape Mabou, averaging 1,000 ft. in height, and thickly wooded. The Gulf-shore road to Margaree runs between this range and the sea, passing the marine hamlets of Cape Mabou and Sight Point. There is an inland road, behind the hills, which is entered by following the Whycocomagh road to the head of the estuary of the Mabou and then diverging to the N. E. This road is traversed by a tri-weekly stage, and leads up by the large farming-settlement at Broad Cove Intervale, to the W. shores of Lake AinsUe (see page 167), which has several small Scottish hamlets among the glens. "The angler 'who has once driven through Ainslie Glen to the (>hoTes of the lake, launched his canoe upon its broad waters, and entered its swiftly running stream, will never be content to return until he has fished its successive pools to its very mouth." A road leads out from near the W. shore of the lake to the village of Broad Cove Chapel, on the Gulf coast, traversing a pass in the highlands. The stage runs N. between the hills and the valley of the Margaree (S. W. Branch), "one of the most romantic and best stocked salmon-rivers in the world." Beyond the settlement of Broad Cove Marsh, a road runs out to the Gulf abreast of Sea- Wolf Island, on whose clififs is a fixed light, 800 ft. 8 170 Routt 4i. BfARGASEE. 'iili ■i:h high. Margaret Forks is a rural Tillage at the junction of the N. E. and S. W. Branches of the famous Kargaree Siver, where salmon abound from Jane 16 until July 15, and rare sea-trout fishing is found. " In Cape Breton the beautiful Margaree is one of the mott noted streams fbr sea- trout, and its clear water and picturesque scenery, windin^r through interrale mead- ows dotted with groups of witch-elm, and baciied by wooded hills over a thouaaad fiset in height, entitle it to pre-eminence amongst the rivers of the Oulf ." There are several small hamlets in this region, with a total population of over 4,000. Margaree is on the harbor of the same name, near the Chimney-Corner coal-mines, 48 M. from Port Hood, and has a small fledt of fishing-vessels. A shore-road runs N. E. 12 M. to Cketicampy a district containing about 2,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of the old Acadian race. It is a fishing station of Robin & Co., an ancient and. powerful commercial house on the Isle of Jersey; and was founded by them in 17^4, and settled by Acadian refugees from Prince Edward Island. The harbor is suitable for small vessels, and is formed by Cheticamp Islaii."., sheltering the mouth of the Cheticamp River. There is a powerful revoi/ing white light on the S. point of the island, 150 ft. high, and visible for 20 M. at sea. N. E. and E. of Cheticamp extends the great highland-wilderness of the N. part of Cape Breton (see page 163), an unexplored and trackless land of forests and mountains. There are no roads above Cheticamp, and the most northerly point of the Province, Cape. St. Lawrence (see page 159), is 30 M. N. E. by £. 1^ E. from the N. part cf Cheticamp Island. The terrible storm which swept the Gulf of St. Lawrence in August, 1873, and wrecked hundreds of vefiselFi, attained its greatest force around the island of Cape Breton and in the narrow eeas to the W. , towards Prince Edward^s Island and the Magdalen Island. It lasted only a few hours, but was fearfully destructive in its effects, and strewed all these coasts with drowned mariners The fono'ort were fain : The mackerel-gulls flew screaming inst, And the stick that bent to tlie noonday blast Was split by the sundown hurricane. O, what can lire on th« open m*. Or moored in port the guc outnde? The very craft tnat at anchor be Are dragRed along by the awoUen tide I The great storm-wave came rolling weal, And tossed the vessels on ita crest : The ancient bounds ita might defied I The ebb to check it had no power ; The surf run up to an untold height t It rose, nor yielded, hour by hour, A night and day, a day and night i Far up the seething shores it cast The wreck of hull and spar and mast, The strangled crews, — a wof ul sight I There were twenty and more of Breton sail Fast anchored on one moorinc-groand ; Each lay within his neighbor s hall, When the thick of the teuipeat closed them round: All sank at once in the gaping sea, — Somewhere on the shoals their corses be, Tne foundered hulka, and the seamen drowned. On reef and bar onr schooners drove Before the wind, before the swell ; By the steep sand-cliffs their ribs were store, — Long, long their crews the tale shall tell I Of tne Gloucester fleet are wrecke threescorei Of the Province sail two hundred more Were stranded in that tempest fell. The bedtime bells in Gloucester Town That Sabbath night rang soft and clears The sailors' childrtn laid them down, — Dear Lord I their sweet prayers couldst thou hear ? *T is said that gently blew the winds : The good -wives, through the seaward bUndit Looked down the bay and had no fear. New England I New Ensland I Thy ports their dauntless seamen monm t The twin capes yearn for their return Who never shall be thither home ; Their orphans whisper as they meet ; The homes arc dark in manv a strest. And women move in weeds forlorn. And wilt thou fail, and dost thou fear t Ah, no ! though widows cheeks are pale. The lads siiall siiy : '* Another rear. And we shnll be of nge to sail ! " And the mothers' hearts shall fill with pride. Though tears drop fast for them who died When the fleet was wrecked in the Lord'f Day gale. " The island beonme as Gaelic as the most Gaelic part of Scotland. It cootinaes Fo to this day. Wlint of Gape Breton is not Highland Scottish is Acadian French The old allien of the Middle Ages Hto together in rmity on this fair outpost of the now world. The Highland immigmnts had a hard time of it for many a long day. Thoy were poor, unslcilled in agricnlture, and utterly ignorant of woodcraft or forest life. But their morale was superb. Lilce men they set the stout heart to the stne brae. Hardy, patient, ftrugal, God-fearing, they endured hardships th t would have killed ordinary settlers. Gradually and painhilly they learned to wield the axe, and to hold the plough instead of the clumsy hoe and spade of their native isles. The likes and streams, the Bras d'Or and the rough Atlantic, gave generous Ftipplirts of food. Their Ing-hutg in the green woods were their own And their children have exchanged the primitive shanty for comfortable fVame houses, and the few sheep their fathers owned for fat flocks and hardy horses that they rear for t'lo Svflney and Newfoundland markets. Take up your summer quarters ou the Gut of Ganso, or at St. Peter's, Badderk, Whycocomagh, Sydney, Lonisbourg, Mar- Itaree, or any other local centre, and though you may not get ' all the comforts of t'le Sautmarket,,' you will get what is better. The more Gnelic you can speak the less money you need to have iu your purse." (Bsv. Oboros M. iGlKANT.) ! ' V PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. ill PRnrcE Edward Island is situated in the southern portion of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is boanded on the S. by the Northumberland Strait. It is 30 M. from Cape Breton Island, 15 M. from Nova Scotia, and M. from New Brunswick, and is surrounded by deep and navigable waters. The extreme length is 130 M.; the extreme breadth. "• M.; and the area is 2,133 square miles. The surface is low or gently undulating, with small hills in the central parts, and the soil is mostly derived from red sandstone, and is very fertile. The air is balmy and bracing, less foggy than the adjacent shores, and milder than that of New Brunswick. The most abundant trees arj the evergreens, besides which the oak and maple are fouud. The shores are deeply indented by harbors, of which those toward the Gulf are obstructed by sand, but those on the S. are com- modious and accessible. The island is divided into 3 counties, including 13 districts, cr 67 town- ships and 3 royalties. It has 108,891 inhabitants, of whom 47,115 are Cath- olics, 33,835 are Presbyterians, 13,485 Methodists, and 7,205 Episcopalians. The majority of the people are of Scottish origin, and there are 300-400 Micmac Indians. The local government is conducted by the Executive Council (9 members) and the House of Assembly (30 members), and the political parties which form about the petty questions of the island dis- play a partisan acrimony and employ a caustic journalism such as are not seen even in the United States. The Province is provided with gov- ernor and cabinet, supreme and vice-admiralt}' courts, and a public domain, on the same plan as those of the great Provinces of Quebec and Ontario. The land is in a high state of cultivation, and nearly all the population is rural. Manufactories can scarcely be said to exist, but the fisheries are carried on to some extent, and shipbuilding receives con- siderable attention. The roads are good in dry weather, and lead through quiet rural scenery, broken every few miles by the blue expanses of the broad bays and salt-water lagoons. The chief exports consist of oats, barley, hay, potatoes, fish, live-stock, and egg?. It has been claimed that Prince Edward Island was discovered bv Cabot, in 1497, but there is no certainty on this subject. It was visited by Champlain on St. John's Day, 1608, and received from him the name of VItU St, Jean. The whole country was then covered with stately for- PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 178 «st9, abounding in game, and was inhabited by a clan of the Micmao Indinns, who called it Epayguit (** Anchored on the Wave"). It was included in the broad domain of Acadia, over which France and England wafted such diRustrous wars, but was not settled for over two centuries after Cubot's vo,vv\go. In 1663 this and the Magdalen Islands were granted to M. Doublet, a captain in the French navy, who erected summer fishings stations here, but abandoned them every autumn. After England had wrested Nova Scotia from France, a few Acadians crossed over to L*Isle St. Jean and became its first settlers. In 1728 there were 60 French fam- ilies here; in 1745 there were about 800 inhabitants; and during her death- struggles with the Anglo-American armies, the Province of Quebec drew lHr<2;e supplies of grain and cattle from *he$e shores. The capital was at Port la Joie (near Charlottetown), where there was a battery and garrison, dependent on the military commandant of Louisbourg. It is claimed by Haliburton that the island was captured by the New-Englanders in 1746, but it is known only that Gen. Pepperell ordered 400 of his soldiers to sail from Louisbourg and occupy L'Isle St. Jean. It does not appear whether or not thi!) was done. After the expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia, many of them fled to this island, which contained 4,100 inhab- itants in 1768. ^n that year Lord RoUo took possession of it, according to the capitulation of Louisbourg, with a small military force. In 1763 the island was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Fon- ta'nebleau, and became a part of the Province of Nova Scotia. It was surveyed in 1764 - 6, and was granted to about 100 English and Scottish gentlemen, who were to pay qultrents and to settle their lands with 1 per- son to every 200 acres, within 10 years, the colonists to be Protestants from the continent of Europe. When the 10 years had elapsed, many of the estates were forfeited or sold to other parties, and only 19 of the 67 townships had any settlers. In 1770 the island was made a separate Prov- ince, and in 1773 tlid first House of Assembly met. In 1776 the Americans captured the capital, and in 1778 four CanacVan companies wore stationed there. In 1780 the Province was called New Ireland, but the King vetoed this name, and in 1800 it was entitled Prince Edward Island, in honor of His Royal Highness Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, then Commander of the Forces in British North America (afterwards father of Queen Victoria). In 1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highlanders, and other proprietors set- tled colonies on their domains. The complicated questions arising from tho old proprietary estates have engrossed most of the legislation of the island for 70 years, and are being slowly settled by the purchase of the lands by the government Prince Edward Island long refused to enter the Dominion of Canada, but yielded at last on very favorable terms, one of the condi- tions being that the Confederacy should build a railway throughout the Province. 174 Houte 48, CAPE TRAVERSE. ^ I '! ! \ 43. Shediac to Snmmenide and Charlottetown. — The Northumberland Strait St. John to Shediac, see Routes 14 and 16. It is probable that steamers of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company "will leave Shediac (Point du Cliene) every day during the summer season, on arrival of the morning train from St. John. The fare from Shediac to Summerside is $1.50 ; and from Sumraerside to Charlottetown, $ 1.60. The distance from Shediac to Summerside is 35 M. Soon after leaving the wharf at Point du Chene the steamer passes out through Shediac Bay, and enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is a little N. of E., and the first point of the island to come into sight is Cape Egmont, with its lines of low sandstone cliffs. The traveller now sees the significance of the ancient Indian name of this sea-girt land, Epayguit^ signifying "Anchored on the Wave." After passing Cape Egmont on the 1., the steamer enters Bedeque, or Halifax, Bay, and runs in toward the low shores on the N. E. After pass- ing Indian Point and Island it enters the harbor of Sumraerside, with the estuary of the Dunk River on the r. Sammerside, see page 179. Upon leaving Summerside the steamer passes Indian Point on the 1., and, after running by Salutation Point, enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is nearly S. E. 9 M. from Salutation Point is Cape Traverse, and on the S. shore is Cape Tormentine. At this, the narrowest part of the strait, the mails are carried across by ice-boats in winter, and passen- gers are transported by the same perilous route. A submarine cable un- derlies the strait at this point. It is 20 M. from Cape Traverse to St. Peter's Island, and along the island shores are the villages of Tryon, Cra- paud, De Sable, and Bonshaw. On passing St. Peter's Island, the steamer enters Hillsborough Bay and runs N., with Orwell and Pownal Bays open- ing on the E. '* Charlottetown Harbor, at its entrance between the cliffs of Blockhouse and Sea-Trout Point, is 450 fathoms wide, and, in sailing in, York River running northward, the Hillsborough River eastwardly, and the Elliot to the westward, surround the visitor with beautiful effects, and as he glides smoothly over their confluence, or what is called the Three Tides, he will feel, perhaps, that he has seen for the first time, should a setting sun gild the horizon, a combination of color and effect which no artist could ade- quately represent." ^ , Charlottetown, see page 178. . ~rf> Jiv J li r ■>, .:; CHARLOTTETOWN. JiouU44. 175 44. Fioton to Prince Edward Island. To Charlottetown. The steamships of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company leave Pictou for Charlottetown every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, on arrival of morning train from Halifax. Fare, $ 2. The distance is a little over 50 M. Soon after leaving the safe and pleasant harbor of Pictou, the steamer approaches Pictou Island, a hilly and well-wooded land 4 M. long, with a lighthouse and some farms. On the W. is Caribou Island, consisting of several islets united by sand-bars, and guarded by a lighthouse. There are pleasant views of the receding highlands of Nova Scotia; and the vessel moves easily through the quiet waters of the Northumberland Strait. '' Prince Edward Island, as we approached it, had a pleasing aspect, and none of that remote friendlessness which its appearance on the map con> veys to one; a warm and sandy land, in a genial climate, without fogs, we are informed." After passing (on the r.) the long low Point Prim, the steamer sweeps around to the N. into Hillsborough Bay, and enters the harbor of Char- lottetown. Pictou to Georgetown. The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company's steamships leave Pictou for Georgetown every Tuesday and Friday; leaving Georgetown for Pictou on the same days. Fare from port to port, $ 2. The distance is nearly 70 M. The chief incidents of this short voyage are the views of Pictou Island; the approach to Cape Bear, the S. E. point of P. E. Island, backed by hills 200 ft. high; and the ascent of the noble sheet of Cardigan Bay, be- tween Boughton and Panmure Islands. Georgetown, see page 181. 45. Charlottetown. Arrival. — The steamer passes between St. Peter's Island (1.) and Governor's Island (r.) and ascends Hillsborough Bay for about 6 M. It then passes between Blockhouse Point (on the 1., with a lighthouse) and Sea-Trout Point, and enters the harbor of Charlottetown, where there are 7-10 fathoms of water. Powerful cur- rents are formed here by the tides of the Hillsborough, York, and Elliot Rivers (or £a8t, North, and West Rivers), which empty into this basin. Hotels. — St. Lawrence Hotel, Water St. ; Revere House, near the steamboat wharf ; Rankin House. The hotels of Charlottetown are only boardims-housea of average grade, and will hardly satisfy American gentlemen. Attempts are being made to erect a large summer-hotel here, though there seems to be but little to warrant such an enterprise. SteamshipB.— The Worcester or the Carroll leaves Charlottetown every Thursday for the Strait of Canso, Ualifiiz, and Boston. Fares to Halifax, saloon itate-room, 96; cabin state-room, 96 » cabin, 94; Halifox to Boston, 99, 97.£0, :i, CHARLOTTETOWN. and $ 6.50. The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company's vessels St. Lawrence and Princess of Wales run between Charlottetown, Shediac, and Pictou (see Routes 48 and 44). The Heather Bell: plies about the bay and up the Hillsborough River, making also trips to Crapaud and Orwell. She runs up the Uillsborougli River to Mount Stewart on Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday; to Crapaud on Wednesday ; and to Orwell on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday (time-table of 1874). Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward Island, is situated on gently rising ground on the N. side of the Hillsborough River, and fronts on a good harbor. It has about 12,000 inhabitants, with 2 daily and 4 weekly newspapers, 4 banks, and 10 churches. The plan of the city is very regular, and consists of streets, each 100 ft. wide, running E. and W., intersecting 9 streets running from N. to S. There are 4 squares. 'I'he Colonial Building is the finest structure in the city. It stands on Queen's Square, at the head of Great George St., and is built of Nova- Scotia freestone (at a cost of S 85,000). The halls of the Legislative Coun- cil and House of Assembly are on the second floor, and are handsomely furnished and adorned with portraits of the statesmen of Prince Edward Island. On ^he same floor is the Colonial Library, containing a good col- lection of books relating to the history, laws, and physical characteristics of Canada and the British Empire. A pleasant view of the city and the rivers may be obtained from the cupola of the building. The Post Office is also on Queen's Square, and is a new and handsome stone building. Just beyond is the Market House, a great wooden structure covered with shingles. The principal shops of Charlottetown are about Queen's Square, and offer but little to bo desii-ed. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Dunstan is a spacious wooden edifice on Great George St., near the Square. The extensive Convent of Notre Dame is on Hillsborough Square, and occupies a modern brick building. The Prince of Wales College and the Normal School are on Weymouth St., in this vicinity. The old barracks and drill-shed are W. of Queen's Square, between Pownal and Sydney Sts., and are fronted by a parade-ground. The Gov- ernment House is on a point of land W. of the city, and overlooks the harbor. In 1748 the government of the island was vested in civil and military officers, 'Whose residence was established at the W. entrance to the harbor of Port la Joie (Charlottetown), where they had a baltcry and a small garrison. It i.^ said that the first French sailors who entered the inner harbor were ^o pleased with its tranquil beauty that they named it Port la Joie. There were no houses on the site of the city in 1762. The harbor was held by three British vigates in 1746, but was ravaged by 200 Micmacs under the French Ensign Montesson. All the English found on the Shore were captured, tut tlie Indians refused to attack the war-vesEols. In 17G8 Moriis and Deschauips arrived here with a small colory, and erected huts. They laid out the streets of Charlottetown, which was soon es'ablished as the capi- tal of the island. In 1775 it was captured by two American A'ar-ve^sels, which hud been cruising in the Gulf to carry otf the Quebec storeships. The sailors plundered the town, and led away several local dignitaries as prisoners, but Washington lib- erated the captives, and reprimanded the predatory cruisers. Charlottetown " has the appearance of a place from which something has de- parted; a vroodeu town, with wide and vacant streets, and the air of waiting fur ENVIRONS OF CHARLOTTETO'WN. BotUe 46. 177 !t. Lavorence and a (see Routes 48 Llsborough River, llsborough River ; to Crapaud on ly (time-table of i, is situated on iver, and fmuts I 2 daily and 4 a of the city i3 running E. and re 4 squares, city. It stands is built of Nova- Legislative Coun- are handsomely if Prince Edward aining a good col- lal characteristics f the city and the . The Post Office ne stone building, •ture covered with it Queen's Square, ic Cathedral of St. ;., near the Square, rough Square, and es College and the s Square, between ground. The (?o»- and overlooks the and military offlcerfl, arbor of Port la Joie ,n. It U said that the msed with its trauquil ises on the site of the 1746, but was ruvaged English found on the ar-vePE<>\8, , ^ . . 01 y, and erected nuts. s'ttblished as the capl- war-ve^sels, which hud The sailors plundered 1, but Washington Ub- Ich something has de- the air of waiting iw something. .... That the prodaetive island, with its system of firee schools, is about to enter upon a prosperous career, and that Oharlottetown is soon to become a place of great activity, no one who converses with the natives can doubt, and I think that even now no traveller will regret spending an hour or two there ; but it b necessary to say that the rosy inducements for tourists to spend the sununer there exist only in the guide-books.*' Environs of Charhttetown. The Wesleyan College is on an eminence back of the city, and overlooks the harbor and the rivers. It has 10 instructors and about 300 students. St. Dunstan's College is a Catholic institution, which occupies the crest of a hill 1 M. from the city, and has 4 professors. There are several pretty villas in the vicinity of Charlottetown; and the roads are very good during dry weather. Some travellers have greatly admired the rural scenery of . these suburban roads, but others have reported them as tame and uninter- esting. The same conflict of opinion exists with regard to the scenery of the whole island. Soutkport is a village opposite Charlottetown, in a pretty situation on the S. shore of the Hillsborough River. It is reached by a steam ferry-boat, which crosses every hour. 3 M. from this place is the eminence called Tea Hilly whence a pleasing view of the parish and the bay may be ob- tained. A few miles beyond is the village of Pownal, at the head of Fownal Bay, and in a region prolific in oats and potatoes. 46. Charlottetown to Suinmerside and Tignish.— The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island. This region is traversed by the Prince Edward Island Railway, a narrow-gauge road which has recently been built by the Canadian government. This line was opened late in 1874. Trains run from Charlottetown to Summerside in 5 hrs. ; to Tigninh in 10 hrs. Stations. —Charlottetown to St. Dunstan's, 2 ; Cemetery, 4 ; Royalty Junction, 6: Winsloe, 6}; Milton, 10; Colvllle, 13 J; N. Wiltshire, 17; Hunter River, 21; Frederitjton. 25 ; Elliotts, 27J ; Breadalbane, 29J ; County Lane, 32 ; Freetown, 86^ ; Blueshank, 89 ; Kenslnf^ton, 41 ; New Annan, 42; Summerside,. 49; Misconche, 64; Wellington, 61: Richmond, 65^: Northam,68; Port Hill, 71; EUerslie, 72J; Conway, 77 : Portage, 80 ; Brae. 86 ; O'Lenry, 89 : Bloomfleld, 95 ; Elmsdale, 100 } Alberton, 104 ; Montrose, 108 ; De Blois, 112^ ; Tigniah, 117. After leaving the commodious station-building, in the E. part of Char- lottetown, the train sweeps around the city, turning to the N. from the bank of the Hillsborough River. The suburban villas are soon passed, and the line traverses a level country to Royalty Junction, where the tracks to Sour is and Georgetown (see Route 47) diverge to the N. E. The train now enters the main line, and runs W. through a fertile farming country, — "a sort of Arcadia, in which Shenstone would have delighted." The hamlets are small and the dwellings are very plain, but it is expected that the stations of the new railway will become the nuclei of future villages. The train soon crosses the head-waters of the York River, and reaches N» Wiltshire, beyond which is a line of low hills, extending across the island. 4 M. beyond this point is the station of Hunter i2tver, whence a much- 8* L 178 R(mte46, EUSTICO. travelled road leads to the N. to New Glasgow and Rustico, locally famous for pleasant marine scenery. Bustico is a quiet marine settlement, with two churches and a bank, and about 300 inhabitants. It is near Grand Rustico Harbor, and is one of the chief fishing stations of the N. shore. The original settlers were Acadians (in the year 1710), many of whose descendants remain in the township, and are peaceful and unprogressive citizens. The Ocean Hou$e (40 guests) is a small summer hotel near the sand-hills of the beach; and the facilities for boating, bathing, fishing, and gunning are said to be ex- cellent. The great fleets of the Gulf fishermen are sometimes seen off these shores. There is a pleasant drive up the Hunter River to New Glas- gow (Rockem's inn), which was settled by men of Glasgow, under Alex- 'ander Cormack, the Newfoundland explorer, in 1829. The Hunter River afifords good trouting. Grand Rustico Harbor is rendered unsafe by shifting bars of sand, and it was off this port that the Government steamer Rose was lost. On the coast to the N. W. are the hamlets of N. Rustico and Cavendish, the lat- ter of which is a Presbyterian farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. Kensington station is about 41 M. from Charlottetown, and is near the petty hamlet of the same name. To the N. E. is Grenville Harbor, with the estu- aries of three rivers, the chir^ of which is the Stanley. There are several maritime hamlets on these shores, and on the W. is New London, a neat Scottish settlement with two churches. A road also leads N. W. from Kensington to Princetown, a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on the peninsula between Richmond Bay, March Water, and the Darnley Basin. This town was laid out (in 1766) with broad streets and squares, and was intended for the metropolis of the N. coast, but the expectations of the government were never realized, and " the ploughshare still turns up the 8cd, where it was intended the busy thoroughfare should be." Malpeque Harbor is the finest and safest on the N. shore of 1: lince Edward Island. A few miles E. are the lofty sandstone cliffs of Cape Tryon, near New Lon- don harbor. Princetown fronts on Richmond Bay, a capacious haven which runs v to the S. W. for 10 M., and contains 7 islands. Travellers have praised the beauty of the road from Princetown to Port Hill, which affords many pleasant views over the bay. Beyond Kensington the train runs S. W. across the rural plains of St. David's Parish, and passes out on the isthmus between Richmond Bay and Bedeque Bay, where the island is only 3 - 4 M. wide. 9 M. from Kensing- ton it reaches Summerside. Summerside (two inns) is situated on the N. side of Bedeque Harbor, and is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches, 5 schools, 2 weekly newspapers, and 2 banks. It is the port wh ance most of the products of the W. part of the island are sent out, and has grown rapidly of late years. The chief exports in 1882 were 600,000 bushels of oats, 110,000 bushels of ^»L.f*« 8UMMERSIDE. Route 46. 179 potatoes, 10,800 bushels of barley, 86,450 dozen of eggs, and 4,837 barrels of the famous Bedeque oysters. The wharves are long, in order to reach the deep water of the channel; and the houses of the town are mostly small wooden buildings. Considerable shipbuilding is done here. The * Island Park Hotel is a summer resort on an islet off the harbor, and is patronized by American tourists. There are accommodations for fishing and bathing, and a steam ferry-boat plies betwreen the island and the town. The hotel commands a pleasant view of the Bedeque shores and the Strait of Northumberland. "This little seaport ia intended to be attractive, and it would give these travellem great pleasure to describe it if they could at all remember how it looks. But it is a place that, like some faces, makes no sort of impression on the memory. We went ashore there, and tried to take an interest in the shipbuilding, and in the littla oysters 'rhich the harbor yields ; but whether we did take an interest or not has passed out of memory. A small, unpicturesque, wooden town, in the languor of a provincial summer ; why should we pretend an intereist in it which we did not feel ? It did not disturb our reposeful frame of mind, nor much interfere with our ecgoy- ment of the day." ( WARN£a's Baddeck.) On leaving Summerside, the train runs out to the W., over a level region. To the N. is the hamlet of St. Eleanors (Ellison's Hotel), a place of 400 in- habitants, situated in a rich farming country. It enjoys the honor of being the shire-town of Prince County, and is about 2^ M. from Summerside. 3 M. from St. Eleanors is the rural village of Miscouche, inhabited by French Acadians. Wellington (Western Hotel) is a small hamlet and station 12 M. beyond Summerside, near the head of the Grand River, which flows into Richmond Bay. The Acadian settlements about Cape Egmont are a few miles to the S. W. The line passes on to Port Ilillj a prosperous shipbuilding village on Richmond Bay. Near this place is Lennox Island^ which is reserved for the Micmac Indians, and is inhabited by about 150 persons of that tribe. Between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence is George Island, which is composed of trap-rock and amygdaloid, and is regarded as a curious geo- logical intrusion in the red sandstone formations of the Prince-Edward shores. The train runs N. W. over the isthmus between the Cavendish Inlet and the Percival and Enmore Rivers, and soon enters the North Parish. This region is thinly inhabited by French and British settlers, and is one of the least prosperous portions of the island. The line passes near Braey a settlement of 300 Scotch farmers, near the trout-abounding streams of the Parish of Halifax. To the S. W. is the sequestered marine hamlet of West Pointy where a town has been laid out and preparations made for a commerce which does not come. The coast trends N. by E. 6 M. from West Point to Cape Wolfe, whence it runs N. E. by E. 27 M. to North Point, in a long unbroken strand of red clay and sandstone cliffs. Alberton (two inns) is one of the northern termmi of the railway, and is a prosperous village of 800 inhabitants, with five ohorohes and an 180 MauU 47. TIGNISH. American consular agency. It is sitnated on Gascumpec^ harbor, and is engaged in shipbuilding and the fisheries. The American fishing-schooners often take refuge in this harbor. The neighboring rural districts are fer- tile and thickly populated, and produce large quantities of oats and pota- toes. This town was the birthplace of the Gordons, the heroic mission- aries at Eromanga, one of whom was martyred in 1861, the other in 1872. S. of Alberton is Holland Bay, which was named in honor of him- self by Major Holland,. the English surveyor of the island; and 6-8 M. N. is Cape Kildare. Tignish (Ryan^s Hotel) is the extreme northern point reached by the railway, and is 117 M. from Charlottetown. It has about 200 inhabitants, and is one of the most important fishing-stations on the island. The in- habitants are mostly French and Scotch, and support a Catholic church and convent. There are several other French villages in this vicinity, concerning which the historian of the island says: ''They are all old set- tlements. The nationality of the people has kept them together, until their farms are subdivided into small portions, and their dwellings are numerous and close together. Few are skilful farmers. Many prefer to obtain a living by fishing rather than farming. They are simple and in- ofiensive in their manners ; quiet and uncomplaining, and easily satisfied. The peculiarities of their race are not yet extinct; and under generous treatment and superior training, the national enterprise and energy, polite- ness and refinement, would gi'adually be restored." » North Point is about 8 M. N. of Tignish, and is reached by a sea-view- ing road among the sand-dunes. It has a lighthouse, which sustains a powerful light, and is an important point in the navigation of the Gulf. 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown. By the Prince Edward Island Railway. Stations. — Charlottetown ; Royalty Junction, 6 M. ; Mount Stewart, 22 ; Car- digan, 40 ; Georgetown, 46. , Beyond Royalty Junction the train diverges to the N- F-, and follows the course of the Hillsborough River, though generally at some distance from the shore. The banks of this stream are the most favored part of that prosperous land of which Dr. Cuyler says: "It is one rich, rolling, arable farm, from Cape East clear up to Cape North." As early as 1768 there were 2,000 French colonists about this river. The Hillsborough is 30 M. long, and the tide ascends for 20 M. Much produce is shipped from these shores during the autumnal months. About 8 M. beyond the Junction the line crosses French Fort Creek, on whose banks the French troops erected a fortification to protect the short portage (1^ M.) across the island, from the river to Tracadie Harbor. Here the military domination was surren- 1 Oeuewnpee, an Indian word, meaning ** Flowing thiongh Saad." GEORGETOWN. JtouU 47, 181 dered to the British expeditionary forces. To the N. W. Kre the Gaelic villages of Covehead and Tracadie, now over a century old; near which is the sandy lagoon of Tracadie Harbor. At the place called Scotch Fort the French built the first church on the island, and in this vicinity the earliest British sel tiers located. From the French Catholic church on the lofty hill at St. Andrews, a few miles to the N. E., a beautiful view is obtained over a rich rural country. Mount Stewart (two Inns) is a prosperous little shipbuilding village, whence the steamer Heather Belli} runs to Charlottetown. The train crosses the river at this point, and at Mount Stewart Junction it turns to the S. E., while the Souris Railway diverges to the N. E. The country which is now traversed is thinly settled, and lies about the head-waters of the Morrell and Pisquid Rivers. There are several small lakes in this region, and forests are seen on either hand. At Cardigan (small inn) the line reaches the head-waters of the eastern rivers. A road leads hence to the populous settlements on the Vernon River and Pownal Bay. Georgetown ( Commercial Hotel) is the capital of King's County, and has about 800 inhabitants. It is situated on the long peninsula between the Cardigan and Brudenelle Rivers, and its harbor is one of the best on the island, being deep and secure, and the last to be closed by ice. The county buildings, academy, and Episcopal church are on Kent Square. The chief business of the town is in the exportation of produce, and ship- building is carried on to some extent. The town is well laid Out, but its growth has been very slow. Steamers ply between this port, Pictou, and the Magdalen Islands (see Routes 44 and 49). The harbor is reached by ascending Cardigan Bay and passing the lighthouses on Panmure Head and St. Andrew's Point. ,, Montague Bridge (Montague House) is reached from Georgetown by a ferry of 6 M. and 11 M. of staging. It has 360 inhabitants and several mills. To the S. E. is St. Mary's Bay. About 20 M. S. of Georgetown is Murray Harbor, on which there are several Scottish villages. From Cape Bear the coast trends W. for 27 M. to Point Prim. " No land can boast more rich supply, That e'er was found beneath the sky ; No purer streams have ever flowed, Since Heaven that bounteous ^ft bestowed. , • • • • And herring, like a mighty host. And cod and mackerel, crowd the coast." *' In this fine island, long neglected, Much, it is thought, might be effected By industry and application, — Sources of wealth with every nation." M^^AMilii^S 182 R(mUJt8. ST. PETEBU 48. Charlottetown to Sf>nri8. By the Prince Edward Island Railway. Stations. — Charlottetown; Royalty Junction, 6 M. ; Mount Stewart, 22 ; Mor- xell, 90 ; St. Peter'o, 88^ ; Harmony, 65 ; Souris, 60^. Charlottetown to Mount Stewart, see page 181. At Mount Stewart Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and soon reaches Morrell, a fishing-station on the Morrell River, near St. Peter's Bay. St. Peter's (Prairie Hctel) was from the first the most important port on the N. shore of the island, on account of its rich salmon-fisheries. About the year 1760 the French government endeavored to restrict the fishing of the island, and to stimulate its agriculture, by closing all the ports except St. Peter's and Tracadie. The village is now quite small, though the salmon-fishery is valuable. St. Peter's Bay runs. 7 M. into the land, but it is of little use, since there is only 5 ft. of water on its sandy bar. From this inlet to East Point the shore is unbroken, and is formed of a line of red sandstone cliffs, 33 M. long. " The sea-trout fishing, in the bays and harbors of Prince Edward Island, espe- cially in June, when the fish first rush in from the gulf, is really magnificent. They average firom 3 to 6 pounds each. I found the best fisbing at St. Peter's Bay, on the N. side of the island, about 28 M. from Charlottetown. I there killed in one morning 16 trout, which weighed 80 pounds. In the bays and along the coasts of the island they are taken with the scarlet fly, from a boat under easy sail, with a * macku/el breeze,' and sometimes a heavy ' ground swell.' The fly skips from wave to wave at the end of ^ yards of line, and there should be at least 70 yards more on the reel. It is splendid sport, as a strong fish will make sometimes a long run, and give a good chase down the wind." (Peblet.) Harmony station is near Rollo Bay, which was named in honor of Lord RoUo, who occupied the island with British troops in 1758. There is a small hamlet on this bay; and to the S. W. are the Gaelic settlements of Dundas, Bridgetown, and Annandale, situated on the Grand River. Souris (three inns) is a village of Catholic Highlanders, pleasantly situated on the N. side of Colville Bay, and divided into two portions by the Souris River. The harbor is shallow, but is being improved by a break- water. The shore-fishing is pursued in fleets of dories, and most of the produce of the adjacent country is shipped from Souris to the French Isle of St. Pierre (see page 185). There is a long sandy beach on the W. of the village, and on the S. and E. is a bold headland. Souris was settled by the Acadians in 1748 ; and now contains about 500 inhabitants. The East Parish extends for several leagues E. of Souris, and includes the sea-shore hamlets of Red Point, Bothwell, East Point, North Lake, and Fairfield. The East and North Lakes are long and shallow lagoons on the coast. East Point is provided with a first-class fixed light, which is 180 ft. ahove the sea and is visible for 18 M. MAGDALEN ISLANDS. Route 49. 183 49. The Magdalen Islands. These remote islands are sometimes visited, during tlie summer, by flshins-par- ties, who find rare sport in catcV' ^g the white sta-trout that abound in the vicinity. The accommodations for visib.a are of the mcst primitive kind, but many defects are atoned for by the hospitality of the people. The mail-steamer Albert leaves Pictou for Geor^i^etown (P. E. I.) and the Magdalen Islands every alternate Wednesday. She also leaves Pictou for Port Hood (Cape Breton) every Monday evening, returning on the following morning. (Time-table of 1874 ) Fares. — Halifax to Port Hood, $ 4.60 ; to Georgetown, $ 4.10 ; to the Magdalen Islands, S 8. Further particulars may be obtained by addressing James King, xoail- contractor, Halifkz. The Magdalen Islands ara thirteen in number, and are situated at the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 50 M. from East Point (P. E. I.), 60 M. from Cape North (C. B.), 120 M. from Cape Ray (N. F,), and 150 M. from Gasp4. When they are first seen from the sea, they present the ap- peal ance of well-detached islets, but on a nearer approach several of them arc seen to be connected with jach other by double lines of sandy beacheS| forming broad and quiet salt-water lagoons. The inhabitants are mostly Acadian fishermen (speaking French only), devoted to the pursuit of the immense schools of cod and mackerel that visit the neighboring wcters. At certain seasons of the year the harborr and lagoons aro filled with hundreds of sail of fishing-vessels, most of which are American and Pro- vincial. Seal-hunting is carried on here with much success, as extensive fields of ice drift down against the shores, bearing myriads of seals. On one occasion over 6,000 seals were killed here in less than a fortnight by parties going out over the ice from the shore. This is also said to be the best place in America for the lobster fishery, and a Portland company has recently founded a canning establishment here. On account of their abundant returns in these regards the Magdalen Islands have received the fitting title of " The Kingdom of Fish." In order to protect these interests the Dominion armed cutter La Canadienne usually spends the summer in these waters, to prevent encroachments by Americans and Frenchmen. Amherst Island is the chief of the group, and is the seat of the principal village, the custom-house, and the public buildings. On its S. point is a red-and-white revolving light which is visible for 20 M. ; and the hills in the interior, 550 ffc. high, are seen from a great distance by day. The village has 3 churches and the court-house, and is situated on a small harbor which opens on the S. of Pleasant Bay, a broad and secure roadstead where hun- dreds of vessels sometimes weather heavy stov-ms in safety. 1 M. N. W. of the village is the singular conical hill called the Demoiselle (280 ft. high), whence the bay and a great part of the islands may be seen. Grindsione Island is 5 - 6 M. N. of Amherst, and is connected with it by a double line of sand-beaches, which enclose the wide lagoon called Basque Harbor. It is 6 M. long, and has a central hill 650 ft. high, while on the W. shore is the lofty conical promontory of sandstone wliich the 184 R(r''^ ia. IIAODALEN ISLANDS. AcadiaoB call Cap de Meule. On the same side is the thriving hamlet of L*£tang du Nord. On the E., and containing 7 square miles, is Alriglit Island, terminated by the grayish-white cliffs of Cape Alright, over 400 ft. high. A sand-beach runs N. £. 10 M. from Grindstone to Wolf Island, a sandstone rock | M. long; and another beach runs thence 9 M. farther to the N. E. to Grosse Island^ on the Grand Lagoon. This island has another line of lofty cliffs of sandstone. To the E. is Coffin Island^ and 4 M. N. is Bryon Island, beyond which are the Bird Isles, Entry Island lies to the E. of Amherst Island, off the entrance to Pleasant Bay, and is the most picturesque of the group. Near the centre is a hill 580 ft. high, visible for 25 M., and from whose summit the whole Magdalen group can be overlooked. The wonderful cliffs of red sandstone which line the shores of this island are very picturesque in their effect, and reach a height of 400 ft. Deadman's Isle is a rugged rock 8 M. W. of Amherst, and derives its name from the fancied resemblance of its contour to that of a corpse laid out for burial. While passing this rock, in 1804, Tom Moore wrote the poem which closes : ** There lieth a wreck on the dismal shore Of cold and pitiless Labrador, IVhere, under the moon, upon mounts of frost. Full many a mariner's bones are tossed. "Ton shadowy bark hath been to that wreck, And the dim blue fire that lights her deck Doth play on t^p njie and livid a erew As ever yet dra' .k the churchyard dew. " To Deadman's Isle in the eye of the blast. To Deadman's Isle she speeds her fast ; By skeleton sliapes her sails arc furled. And the hand that steers is not of thU world." The Bird Isles are two bare rocks of red sandstone, | M. apart, the chief of which is known as Gannet Rock, and is 1,300 ft. long and 100-140 ft. high, lined with vertical cliffs. These isl^s are haunted by immense num- bers of sea-birds, gannets, guillemots, puffins, kittiwakes, and razor-billed auks. ** No other breeding-place on our shore is so remarkable at once for the number and variety of the species occupying it." Immense quan- tities of eggs are carried thence by the islanders, but to a less extent than formerly. This great natural curiosity was visited in 1632 by the Jesuits (who called the rocks Les Cotombiers), by Heriot in 1807, by Audubon, and in 1860 by Dr. Bryan. The Dominion has recently erected a lighthouse here at great expense, and to the imminent peril of those engaged in the work, since there is no landing-place, and in breezy weather the surf dashes violently against the clifis all around. The tower bears » fixed white light of the first class, which is visible for 21 M. Charlevoix visited these islands in 1720, and wondered how, " in such a Multitude of Nests, every Bird immediately finds her own. We fired a Gun, which gave the Alarm thro' all this flying Commonwealth, and there was formed above the two Islands, a thick Cloud of these Birds, which was at least two or three Leagues around." The Slagdalen lBu.^ds were visited by Car tier in 1684, but the first permanent sta- tion was founded here in 1663 by a company of Honfleur mariners, to whom the islands were conceded by the Company of New France. In 1720 the Duchess of Orleans granted them to the Count do St. Pierre. In 1768 they were inhabited by 10 ^«»^iftn flimilies, and in 1767 a Boatonian named Gridley founded on Amherst ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. HouU SO, 185 bland an estabUahment ibr trading and for the teal and walnu fliherles. Dnrlng the Revolution American prirateers vidited the islands, and destroyed everything accessible. Gridley returned after the war, but the walrus soon became extinct, and the islanders turned their attention to the cod and herring fisheries. When Admiral Coffin received his grant there were 100 families here; in 1831 there were 1,000 inhabitanta; and the present population is about 3,500. In the mean time three colonies have been founded and populated from these itilands, on Labrador and the N. shore. The Lord's>Day Qulc (see page 170) wrought sad havoc among the fleets in these waters. Tradition tells that when Capt. Coffin wa« conveying Oovemor-General Lord Dor- chester to Canada in his frigate, a furious storm arose in the Gulf, and the skilful mariner saved his vessel by gaining shelter under the lee of these islands. Dorches- ter, grateful for his preservation, secured for the captain the grant of the islands "in free and common soccage," with the rights of building roads and fortifications reserved to the Crown. The grantee was a native of Boston and a benefactor of Nantucket, and subsequently became Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. The grant now belongs to his nephew, Admiral Coffin, of Bath, and is an entailed estote of the family. In 1873, 75 years after the grant, the legislature of Quebec (in whose Juris- diction the islands lie) made extensive investigations with a view to buy out the pro- prietor's clidm, since many of the islanders had emigrated to Labrador and th* Mlngan Isles, dissatisfied with their uncertain tenure of the land. 50. St Pierre and Miquelon. The Angle-French Steamship Company dispatches the steamer George Shattuek firom Halifax to Sydney and St. Pierre every alternate Saturday during' the season of navigation. She leaves St. Pierre every alternate Friday. The voyage to Sydney has i..sently been made by way of St. Peter's Canal and the Bras d'Or, but it is not likely vhat that route will be adopted in preference to the outside course. Fares from Halifax to Sydney, cabin, $ 10, steerage, $6 ; to St. Pierre, cabin, $15, steerage, $8; Sydney to St. Pierre, cabin, $9, steerage, $6. The price of meals is included in the cabin-fares. Further information may be obtained by ad- dressing Joseph S. Belcher. Boak's Wharf, Halifax. St. Pierre may also be visited by the Western Coastal steamer from St. John's, N. F. (see Route 60). There are several French cafis and pensions in the village of St. Pierre, at which the traveller can find indifferent accommodations. The best of these is that at which the telegraph-operators stop. On entering the harbor of St. Pierre, the steamer passes Galantry Head, on which is a red-and-white flash-light which is visible for 20 M., and also two fog-guns. Within the harbor are two fixed lights, one white and one red, which are visible for 6 M. ; and the Isle aux Chiens contains a scattered fishing-village. The island of St. Pierre is about 12 M. from Point May, on the New- foundland coast, and is 12 M. in circumference. It is mostly composed of rugged porphyritic ridges, utterly arid and barren, and the scenery is of a striking and singular character. Back of the village is the hill of Cal- vairCf surmounted by a tall cross; and to the S. W., beyord Ravenel Bay, is the lakelet called L'Etang du Savoyard. The town is compactly built on the harbor at the E. of the island, and most of its houses are of stone. It is guarded by about 50 French soldiers, whose presence is necessary to keep the multitudes of fearless and pugnacious sailors from incessant riot- ing. There is a large force of telegraph-operators here, in charge of the two cables from America to Great Britain by way of Newfoundland, and of the Franco-American cable, which runs £. to Brest and S. W. to Doz- bury, in Massachusetts. The only good house in the town is that of the Govemor; and the Cath- !■; : I f* iv 186 RmUeSO. ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. olic church and conyent rise prominently over the low houses of the fisher- men. Near the sea is a battery of ancient guns, which are used only for warning in season of fogs. The buildings are nearly all of wood, and in- clude many shops, where every variety of goods may be obtained. The merchants are connected with French and American firms. There are numerous cdbarets^ or drinking-saloons ; and the avberge$y or small taverns, are thorougiily French. Tlie citizens are famed for their hospitality to properly accredited strangers; and the literary culture of the community is served by a diminutive weekly paper called La Feuille OffideUe^ printed on a sheet of foolscap, and containing its serial Parisian ftuilleton. The street of St. Pierre presents a very interesting sight during the spring and fall. It is crowded with many thousands of hardy fishermen, arrayed in the quaint costumes of their native shores, — Normans, Bretons, Basques, Provincials, and New-Englanders, — all active and alert; while the implements of the fisheries are seen on every side. The environs of the town are rocky and utterly unproductive, so that the provisions used here are imported from the Provinces. The resident population is 3,187 (of whom 24 are Protestant), and the government is conducted by a Commandant, a Police Magistrate, Doctor, Apostolic Prefect, and Engineer, with a few artillerists and gens-d'armes. There is usually one or more French frigates in the harbor, looking after the vast fisheries which employ 16,000 sailors of France, and return 80,000,000 francs' worth of fish. St. Pierre is the chief rendezvous of the I<'rench fishermen, and immenfie fleets are sometimes gathered here. Over 1,000 sail of square-rigged vessels from France are engaged in these fishrries, and on the 29tli of June, 1874, the roadstead near the island contained 850 sail of square-rigged vessels and 800 fore-and-aft vessels. They are here furnished with supplies, which are drawn from the adjacent Provinces, and in return leave many of the luxuries of Old France. It is claimed that the brandy of St. Pierre is the best in America. The fishermen leave their fish here to be cured, and from this point they are sent S. to the United States and the West Indies. Little Miquflon hland, or Langley Island, lies 3 M. N. W. of St. Pierre, and la about 24 M. around. It is joined to Great Mlquelon Island by a long and narrow sandy isthmus. The latter island is 12 M. long, and looks out on Fortune Bay. Near its N. end are the singular hills known as Mt. Ghapeau and Mt. Cal- vaire. On this island, during the summer of 1874. was wrecked H. B. M. frigate Niobe, the brave ship that trained her guns on Santiago de Cuba, and prevented a total massacre of the Virginius prisoners. St. Pierre was captured by a British fleet in 1793, and all its inhabitants, 1,502 in number, were carried away to Halifax, whence they were soon afterwards sent to France. In 1796 a French Republican fleet under Admiral Richery visited the de- serted island, and completely destroyed its buildings and wharves. It was, how- ever, restored to France in 1814, together with her ancient privileges in these waters. "All the island is only a great laboratory for the preparation, curing, and exportation of codfish. For the rest, not a tree, not a bush, above 25 cenn- meties." > NEWFOUNDLAND Is bounded on the W. by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the N. by the Strnit of Belle Isle, and on the £. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean. From N. to S. it is 850 M. long, and the average breadth is 180 M., giving an estimated area of 40,200 square miles. The coast is steep and bold, and is indented with numerous deep bays and fiords. Mines of lead and cop- per are being worked with much success, and there are large undeveloped 'eposits of coal on the W coast. " Up go the surges on the coast of NewfouDdland, and down again into the sea. The huge island .... stands, with it!) sheer, beetling clitTs, out of the ocean, a mon- strous mass of roclc and gravel, almost without soil, like a strange thing from the bottom of the great deep, lifted up suddenly into sunshine and storm, but belong- ing to the watery darkness out of which it has been reared. The eye accustomed to richer and softer scenes finds something of a strange and almost startUng beauty in its bold, hard outlines, cut out un every side against the sky Inland, sur- rounded by a fringe of small forests on the coast<>, is a vast wilderness of moss, and rock, and lake, and dwarf firs about breast-high. These little trees are so close and el iff and flat-topped that one can almost walk on them. Of course they are very hard things to make way through and among. .... In March or April almost all the men go out in fleets to meet the ice that floats down from the northern regions and to kill the seals that come down on it. In early summer a third part or a half of all the people go, by families, in their schooners, to the coast of Labrador, and ^pend the summer fishing there ; and in the winter, half of them are living in tlie woods, in tilts, to have their fuel near them. At home or abroad, during the sea- son, the men are on the water for seals or cod. The women sow, and plant, and tend the little gardens, and dry the fish ; in short, they do the land-work, and are the better for it." (R. T. S. Lowell.) Two of the most remarkable features of the natural history of the island are thus quaintly set forth by Whitboume {anno 1622) : *' Neither are there any Snakes, Toads, Serpents, or any other venomous Wormes that ever were knowne to hurt any man in that country, but only a very little nim- ble fly (the least of all other flies), which is called a Miskieto; those flies seem to have a great power and authority upon all loytering and idle peo- ple that come to the Newfoundland." Instances have been known where the flies have attacked men with such venom and multitudes that fatal results have followed. In the interior of the island are vast unexplored regions, studded with large lakes and mountain-i'anges. Through these solitudes roam countless thousands of deer, which are pursued by the Mic- mac hunters. Newfoundland was discovered by the Norsemen in the tenth century, but they merely observed the coast and made no farther explorations. ^1 m m I 5 r: ! If I M 1^ r 188 Jtmite 61. NEWFOUNDLAND. There is good reason for supposing that it was frequented by Breton and Norman fishermen during the fourteenth century. In 1497 the island Was formally discovered by John Cabot, who was voyaging under the patron- age of Henry VII. of England. The explorations of Cortereal (1501), Ve- razzano (1524), and Cartier (1534), all touched here, and great fishing- fleets began to visit the surrounding seas. Sir Humphrey Gilbert took possession of Newfoundland in the name of England, in 1583, making this the most ancient colony of the British Empire.. The settlements of Guy, Whitboume, Calvert, and others were soon established on the coast. I . The fishermen were terribly persecuted by pirates during the earlier part of the 17th century. Peter Easton alone had 10 sail of corsairs on the coast, claiming that he was "master of the seas," and levying heavy taxes on all the vessels in these waters. Between 1612 and 1660 alone, the pirates captured 180 pieces of ordnance, 1,080 fishermen, and large fleets of vessels. Between 1692 and 1713 the French made vigorous attempts to conquer the island, and the struggle raged with varying fortunes on the E. and S. shores. By the Treaty of Utrecht the French received permission to catch and cure fish along the W. coast (see Route 61). In 1728 Newfoundland was formed into a Province, and courts were established. The French made determined attacks in 1761 and 1796, and the people were reduced to great extremity by the Non-Intercourse Act passed by the American Con- gress in 1776 and again in 1812-14. In 1817 there were 80,000 inhab- itants, and 800 vessels were engaged in the fisheries, whose product was valued at $ 10,000,000 a year. In 1832 the first Legislative Assembly was convened; in 1838 a geological survey ^/as made; and in 1858 the Atlan- tic telegraph-cable was landed on these shores. Newfoundland has i*e- fused to enter the Dominion of Canada, and is still governed directly by the British Crown. 61. Halifax to St John's, Newfoundland. The ocean steamships between Halifax and Liverpool call at St. John's fortnightly. Their course after leaving Halifax is directly to the N. £. across the open sea, giving Cape Race a wide berth. The fare on these vessels is higher than it is on the rtVgo, and the accommodations are superior ; but the voyager does not get the iuterestiDg views of the Oanso and Cape-Breton shores. Cromwell-Line steamships run fortnightly between New York, HalifSiz, and 8t. John's. The fare is $15 or $6. They are well arranged for passenger-trafflo. Also, steamships of the Allan Line. Halifax to Sydney, see page 148. After leaving the harbor of Sydney, Flint Island is seen on the r., and the blue ranges of the St. Anne Mts. on the 1. The course is but little N. of £., and the horizon soon becomes level and landless. Sometimes the dim blue hills of St. Pierre are the first land seen after the Cape-Breton coast ST. JOHN'S. BouteSi. 189 sinks below the horizon; but generally the bold mountain-promontory of Cape Chapeau Rouge is the first recognizable shore. Then the deep bight of Placentia Bay opens away on the N. After rounding Cape Race (see page 199), the steamship stretches away up the Strait Shore past a line of fishing hamlets, deep fiords, and rocky capes. *' When the mistfl dispersed, the rocky shores of Newfoundland were close upon our left, — lofty cliffs, red and gray, terribly beaten by the waves of the broad ocean. We amused ourselves, as we passed abreast the bays and headlands and rugged islands, with gazing at the wild scene, and searching out the beauty timidly reposing among the bleak and desolate. On the whole, Newfoundland, to the voyager from the t$tate8,i8 a lean and bony land, in thin, ragged clothes, with the smallest amount of adornment. Along the sides of the dull, brown mountains there is a suspicion of verdure, spotted and striped here and there with meagre woods of birch and fir. The glory of this hard region is its coast : a wonderfiU perplexity of fiords, bays and creeks, islands, peninsulas and capes, endlessly picturesque, and very often magnifi- cently grand. Nothing can well exceed the headlands and precipices, honeycombed, shattered, and hollow^ out into vast caverns, and given up to the thunders and the fury of the deep-sea billows The brooks that flow from the highlands, and fall over cliffs of great elevation into the very surf, and that would be counted features of grandeur in some countries, are here the merest trifles, a kind of jewelry on the hem of the landscape." (Noble.) " The first view of the harbor of St. John's is very striking. Lofty precipitous cliffs, of hard dark-red sandstone and conglomerate, range along the coast, with deep water close at their feet. Their h^la plunge from a height of 4()0 - 700 ft. , at an angle of 70°, right into the sea, wher.; they are ceaselessly dashed against by the unbroken swell of the Atlantic waves. '* (Jukes ) ^ 52. St John's, Newfbnndland. Arrival from the Sea. — " The harbor of St. John's is certdnly one of the most remarkable for bold and effective scenery on the Atlantic shore We were moving spiritedly forward over a bright and lively sea, watching the stem headlands receding in the south, and starting out to view in the north, when we passed Gape Spear, a lofty promontory, crowned with a lighthouse and a signal-staff, upon which was floating the meteor flag of England, and at once found ourselves abreast the bay in Aront of St. John's. Not a vestige, though, of anything like a city was in sight, except another flag flitting on a distant pinnacle of rock. Like a mighty Coliseum, the sea-wall half encircled the deep water of this outer bay, into which the full power of the ocean let itself under every wind except the westerly. Right towards the coast where it gathered itself up into the greatest massiveness, and tied itself into a very Gordian knot, we cui: across, curious to behold when and where the rugged adamant was going to split and let us through. At length it opened, and we looked through, and presently glided through a kind of mountain-pass, with all the lonely grandeur of the Franconia Notch. Above us, and close above, the rugged, brown cliffs rose to a fine height, armed at certain points with cannon, and before us, to all appearance, opened out a most beautiful mountain lake, with a little city looking down from the mountain-side, and a swamp of shipping along its shores. We were in the harbor, and before St. John's." (Noble.) Hotels. — The Union House, 379 Water St. (nearly 1 M. from the Custom House), is the best ; Atlantic Houfc, Water St. There are also two or three boarding- houses, which are preferable to the hotels, if a long stay is to be made. Mrs. Simms's, 353 Water St. , ia one of the best of these ; and Knight's Home, 173 Water St., is tolerable. The accommodations for visitors to St. John's are not such as might be desired or expected in a city of so much importance. Carriages may be engaged at the stands on Water St. (near the Post-Office). The rate per hour is 80c. Amusements, generally of merely local interest, are prepared in Temper* ance Hall or the Avalon (Victoria) Rink. Boat-racing is frequently carried on at Quiddy-Viddy Pond. Cricket-matches are also played on the outskirts of the city. Po*t-Office, at the Market House, on Water St. Telegraph, New York, New- foundland, and London Co., at the Market House. 190 RouU 52. ST. JOHN'S. Mall-^ragons leare St. Jdhn's for Portugal Oove, daily ; to Bay Balln and Ferry land, weekly ; to Salmonier and Placentia, on the day of arrival of the Hali- &x mail. Railroad to points on Conception Bay. Steamships. — For Bay-de-Verds, Trinity, Catalina, Bonavista, King's Coye, Oreenspond, Fogo, Twillinprate, Exploits Island, Little Bay Island, Tilt Cove, Bett's Cove, Nipper's Harbor, and the Labrador coast ; to Ferry land, Renewse, Trepassey, Burin, St. Lawrence, Grand Bank, St. Pierre. Harbor Briton , Gaultois, Great Jervois, Burgeo, Little Bay (La Poile), Rose Blanche Channel, and Sydnev. T^nrss (meals Included) to Bay-de-Verds or Ferry land, 10 f< ; Trinity or Plao .fia, 20 s.; Catalina or Burin, 20 b. : Fogo or St. Pierre, 32 s. 6d. ; Tilt Cove, 40«.; Rose Blanche, 50 s. ; Sydney, 70s. These steamships to the Northern and Western out- ports leave about every ten ^ays, and connect with the Hercules for Labrador. The Vnletta and PoHno run from St. John's to Pictou and Montreal every fort- night, in summer. The Cromwell Line runs fortnightly steamships from St. John's to Halifax and New York. The Allan-Line steamships run from Baltimore or Hali- &x to St. John's fortnightly ; ^nd thence continue on to Liverpool. St. John's, the capital of the Province of Newfoundland, is situated in latitude 47' 33' 6" N., and longitude 52' 44' 7" W., and is built on the slope of a long hill which rises from the shore of a deep and secure har- bor. At the time of the census of 1£69 there were 22,555 inhabitants in the city (there; are now over 35,000): but the population, owing to the peculiar character of its chief industry, is liable at any time to be in- creased or diminished by several thousand men. The greater part of the citizens are connected with the fisheries, directly or indirectly, and large teets are despatched from the port throughout the season. Their return, Oi* the arrival of the sealing-steamers, with their great crews, brings new life to the streets, and oftentimes results in such general " rows " as re- quire the attendance of a large police-force. The interests of the city are all with the sea, from which are drawn its revenues, and over which pass the fleets which bring in provisions from the Provinces and States to the S. W. The manufactures of St. John's are insignificant, and consist, for the most part, of biscuit-bakeries and oil-refineries (on the opposite side of the harbor). An immense business is done by the mercantile houses on Water St. in furnishing supplies to the outports (a term applied to all the other ports of Newfoundland except St. .John's); and one firm alone has a trade amounting to $ 12,000,000 a year. For about one month, during the busy season, the streets are absolutely crowded with the people from the N. and W. coasts, selling their fish and oil, and laying in pro- visions and other supplies for the ensuing year. The commercial interests are served by three banks and a chamber of commerce ; and the literary standard of society is maintained by the St. John's Athenaeum and the Catholic Institute. The city is supplied with gas, and water is brought in from a lake 4^ M. distant, by works which cost $ 360,000. '• In trying to describe St. John's, there is some difficulty in applying an adjec- tive to it sufficiently distinctive and appropriate. We And other cities coupled with words which at once give their predominant characteristic: London the richest, Paris the gayest, St. Petersburg the coldest. In one respect the chief town of New- foundland has, I believe, no rival ; we may, therefore, call it the fishiest of modern capitals. Round a great part of the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with ood split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there is ST. JOHN'S. R&uteSS. 191 Bay Bullfi and ral of the Halir- I, King's CoTe, Mlt Cove, Bett'B wse, Trepassey, s, Great Jervois, r. Fnras (meals 1ac> tia, 20 b.; ve, 40«.; Rose nd Western out- 8 for Labrador, treal every fbrt- I from St. John's Itimore or Hali- , is situated in is built on the nd secure har- inhabitants in i, owing to the time to be in- ater part of the Bctly, and large Their return, ws, brings new "rows" as re- of the city are ver which pass States to the and consist, for ,e opposite side rcantile houses applied to all one firm alone )ut one month, with the people laying in pro- nercial interests ,nd the literary naeum and the ater is brought ipplyiTig an adjec- Ities coupled wlta adon the richest, tiieftown of Now- fishiest of modern stent, roofed with le «ir, for there is not much of the former to depend npon The town is irregular and dirty, built chiefly of wood, the dampness of the climate rendering stone unsuitable." (Kuc^ WARBirRTON.) The harbor is small, but deep, and is so thoroughly landlocked that the water is always smooth. Here may generally be seen two or three British and French frigates, and at the close of the season these narrow waters are well filled with the vessels of the fishing-fleets and the powerful sealing- steamers. Along the shores are the fish-stages, where immense quantities of cod, herring, and salmon are cured and made ready for exportation. On the S. shore are several wharves right under the cliffs, and also a float- ing dock which takes up vessels of 800 tons' burden. The entrance to the harbor is called the * Narrows, and is a stupendous cleft in the massive ridge which lines the coast. It is about 1,800 ft. long, and at its narrow- est point is but 660 ft. wide. On either side rise precipitous walls of sand- stone and conglomerate, of which Signal Hill (on the N. side) reaches an altitude of 620 ft., and the southern ridge is nearly 700 ft. high. Vessels coming in from the ocean are unable to see the Narrows until close upon it, .1 steer for the lofty block-house on Signal Hill. The points at the « i! , e were formerly well fortified, and during war-time the harbor was Closed by a chain drawn across the Narrows, but the batteries are now in a neglected condition, and are nearly disarmed. The city occupies the rugged hill on the N. of the harbor, and is built on three parallel streets, connected by steep side-streets. The houses are mostly low and unpainted wooden buildings, crowding out on the side- walks, and the general appearance is that of poverty and thriftlessness. Even the wealthy merchants generally occupy houses far beneath their station, since they seem to regard Newfoundland as a place to get for- tunes in and then retire to England to make their homes. This prin- ciple was universally acted on in former years, but latterly pleasant villas are being erected in the suburbs, and a worthier architectural appearance is desired and expected for the ancient capital. Water Street is the main business thoroughfare, and follows the curves of the harbcr- shore for about 1^ M. Its lower side is occupied by the great mercantile houses which supply "fish-and-fog-land" with provisions, clothing, and household re- quirements; and the upper side is lined with an alternation of cheap shops and liquor-saloons. In the N. part is the Custom Home, and near the cen- tre is the spacious building of the Market-Hall and the Post-Office. To the S., Water Street connects with the causeway and bridge of boats which crosses the head of the harbor. Admonished by several disastrous fires, the city has caused Water St. to be built upon in a substantial manner, and the stores, though very plain, are solidly and massively constructed. The Anglican Cathedral stands about midway up the hill, over the old burying-ground. It was planned by Sir Gilbert Scott, the most emi- nent British architect of the present era, ani is in the early English Gothic I *1 i 1^ ^'1 I1 1 192 Route Si, ST. JOHN'S. architecture. Owing to the inahility of the Church to raise sufficient funds (for the missions at the outports demand all her revenues), the cathedral is but partly finished, but since 1880 much work has been done upon it, largely by fishermen volunteers. The lofty proportions of the interior and the fine Gothic colonnades of stone between the nave and aisles, together with the high lancet-windows, form a pleasant picture. The * Roman Catholio Cathedral is the most stately building in New- foundland, and occupies the crest of the ridge, commanding a noble * view over the city and harbor and adjacent countrj', and looking through the Narrows on to the open sea. The prospect from the cathedral terrace on a moonlight night or at the time of a clear sunrise or sunset is especially to be commended. In the front part of the grounds is a colossal statue of St. Peter, and other large statues are seen near the building. The cathe- dral is an immense stone structure, with twin towers on the front, and is surrounded with a long internal corridor, or cloister. There are no aisles, but tlie whole building is thrown into a broad nave, from which the tran- septs diverge to N. and S. The stone of which it is constructed was brought from Conception Bay and from Dunleary, Ireland, and the walls were raised by the free and voluntary labors of the people. Clustered about the cathedral are the Bishop's Palace, the convent and its schools, and St. Bonaventure's Colleje (5 professors), where the missionaries are disciplined and the Catholic youth are taught in the higher branches of learning. Catholicism vras founded on the island by Sir George Calvert (see Route 64) and by the Bishop of Quebec ; euffered persecution from 1762 to 178l, when all priests were banished (though some returned in disguise) ; and afterwards gained the chief pow^ as a coni-equencc of Irish immigration, upon which the bishops became arro- eant and autocratic, and the Province was, practically, governed from Cathedral Hill. The great pilo of religious buildings then erected on this commanding height cost over $500,000, and the present revenues of the diocese are princely in amount, being collected by the priests, who board the arriviug fishing-vessels and assess their people. The Irish Catholics form a great majority of the citizens of St. John's. Near the cathedral are the old barracks of the Royal Newfoundland Companies and the garrisons from the British army. The Military Road runs along the crest of the heights, and afibrds pleasant views over the harbor. On this road is the Colonial Building, a substantial structure of gray stone, well retired from tlie cai'riage-way, and adorned with a massive portico of Doric columns upholding a pediment which is occupied by the Royal Arms of Great Britain and Ireland. The colonial legislature meets in this building, and occupies plain but comfortable halls. The Government House is N. of the Colonial Building, and is the official man- sion of the governor of the Province (Sir Henry Fitzhardinge Berkeley Maxse, K. C. M. G.). It was built in 1828-30, and cost $240,000. The surrounding grounds are pleasantly diversified with groves, flower-beds, and walks, and are much visited by the aristocracy of St. John's, during the short but brilliant summer season. ST. JOHN'S. JtouteSfS. 193 ufficient funds the cathedral done upon it, (f the interior ve and aisles, ure. lilding in New- a noble * view ng through the iral terrace on 3t is especially lossal statue of ig. The cathe- he front, and is re are no aisles, (vhich the tran- onstructed was i, and the walls )pie. Clustered and its schools, missionaries are [her branches of gee Route 54) and :, when all priests s gained the cliief lops became arro- d from Cathedral )mmanding height rincely in amount, il8 and assess their of St. John's. 1 Newfoundland e Military Road ; views over the antial structure adorned with a lich is occupied onial legislature ible halls. The =he official man- •dinge Berkeley $240,000. The ^es, flower-beds, John's, during Passing ont through the poor suburb called " Maggotty Cove," a walk of about 20 n>inute3 leads to the top of * Signal Hill. " High above, on our r., a ruined monolith, on a mountain-peak (Crow's Nest), marl(8 the site of an old battery, while to the 1., sunk iu a hollow, a black bog lies sheltered amid the bare bones of mother earth, here mainly composed of dark red sandstones and conglomerate, passing down by regular gradations to the slate below. A sudden turn of the road reveals a deep solitary tarn, some 330 ft. above the sea, in which the guardian rocks reflect their purple faces, and where the ripple of the muskrat, hurrying across, alone disturbs the placid surface. We pass a hideous- looking barrack, and, crossing the soft velvety sward on the crest, reach a little bat> tery, from the parapets of which we look down, down, almost 500 ft. perpendicu- larly, right into ' the Narrows,' the strait or creek between the hills connecting the broad Atlantic with the oval harbor within. The great south-side liills, covered with luxuriant wild vegetation, and skeined with twisting torrents, loom across the strait so close that one might fancy it almost possible a stone could fly from the hand to the opposite shore. On our left the vast ocean, with nothing — not a rock — between us and Galway ; on our right, at the other end of the narrow neck of water directly beneath, the inner basin, expanding toward? the city, with tlie back- ground of blue hills as a setting to the picture, broken on.y in their continuous out- line by the twin towers of the Catholic cathedral, ever thus from all points perform- ing their mission of conspicuity. Right below us, 400 ;t. perpendicular, we leaa over the grass parapet and look carefully down into the little battery guarding the narrowest part of the entering-strait, where, in the old wars, heavy chains strctehed from shore to shore The Narrows are full of fishing-boats returning with the silver spoils of the day glistening in the hold of the smacks, which, to the number of forty or fifty at a time, tack and fill like a fleet of white swans against the western evening breeze. Even as we look down on the decks, they come, and still tliey come, round the bluff point of Fort Amherst, from the bay outside." (Lt.-CoL. McCrea.) "After dinner we set off for Signal Hill, the grand observatory of the country, both by nature and art Little rills rattled by ; paths wound among rocky notches and grassy chasms, and led out to dizzy ' over-looks ' and ' short-offs.' The town with its tliousand smokes sat in a kind of amphitheatre, and seemed to etgoy the spectacle of sails a d colors in the harbor We struck into a fine military road, and passed spacious stone barracks, soldiers and soldiers' families, goats and little gardens. From the observatory, situated on the craggy peninsula, both ^e ruggedinterior and the expanse of ocean were before us." (Noble.) " Britones et Normani anno a Christo nato MCCCCCIIII. has terras invenere " ; and iu August, 1527, 14 sail of Norman, Breton, and Portuguese vessels were shel- tered in the harbor of St. John's. In 1542 the Sieur de Roberval, Viceroy of New i'rance, entered here with 3 ships and 200 colonists bound for Quebec. He found 17 vessels at anchor in the harbor, and soon afterward there arrived Jacques Cartier and the Quebec colonists, discouraged, and returning to France. Roberval ordered him back, but he stole out of the harbor during the darkness of night and returned to France. A few years later the harbor was visited by the exploring ship Mary of Guilford, and the reverend Canon of 8t Paul, who had undertaken the unpriestly function of a discoverer, sent hence a chronicle of the voyage to Cardinal Wolsey. In August, 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert (see page 135) entered the harbor of St. John's, with a t^eet consisting of the Delight, Goltten Hind, Swcdiow, and Squirrel. He took formal possession of the port and of the island of Newfoundland, receiving the ot)edience of 36 ship-masters then in the harbor. But the adventurous mari- ners were discontented with the rudeness of the country, and the learned Parme- nius wrote back to Hakluyt: " My good Hakluyt, of the manner of this country what shall I say, when I see nothing but a very wildernesse." In view of the date of Gilbert's occupation, Newfoundland claims the proud distinction of being the most ancient colony of the British Empire. In 1584 St. John's was visited by the fleet of Sir Francis Drake, which had swept the adjacent seas and left a line of burn- ing wrecks behind. In 1696 the town was so strongly guarded that it easily repulsed the Chevalier Nesmond, who attacked it with ten £*rench men-of-war. The expedition of the daring Iberville was more sucoessfhl, and occupied the place. In November, 1704, 9 M IH Jt(tbe latest accessible ■tatistics) 688 vessels, with a tonnage of 109,043 tons, and employing 5,466 men, en- tered this port ; and in the same year there were cleared hence 677 vessels, with 4,937 men. The new railroad, the first to be built in Newfbundland. now runs firom St John's to Holyrood, 65 M., and to Harbor Grace. It is being built by a New- York companv, and will be extended as rapidly as possible to the copper-mines at Hall's Bay, 840 M. distant, opening up a valuable mining and farming country. It will cost 88,000,000, and the company receives a subsidy of $186,000 a year for 86 years, and a land-grant of 1,7QO,OW acres. PORTUGAL COVK Jioute 53, 195 k, whence they g, and crossed ^ouUe) Burren- asued.over the entia were sent ! works lor lack the town and of interne cold, valiantly, and slodging the en- vith a powerftil ironne, 44 ; and '.n were landed. 8, together with ■om Halifax and i forces were de- t (Roval Amerl- , but the French rom Torbay came an time, a dense led his squadron l796 a formidable Bhiys and several • James Wallace, ilrawn up in the itire body of the t for many days, leffcctual attempt B occurred at St. ering would have i ship loaded with overished people. 000,000 worth of by a third dis- resulting in the er to a succession the first highway on of the Colonial ad waters arrived politico-religious rishmen attacked ti rapine and rob- d Companies was suffered for hours le twilight, when in the insurgent Uinmoned all the and forbearance, the next day, he- •agical revolt was ed in the sealing e latest accessible ng 6,466 men, en- 577 vessels, with ow runs firom St It by a New-York (r-mines at HAH'a country. It will 000 a year for 86 5a The Environs of St John's. " On either side of the city of St. John's, stretching in a semicircle along the rag- ged coast, at an average radius from the centre of 7 or 8 M., a number of little flsh- ing-coves or bays attract, during the sweet and enjoyable summer, all persons who can command the use of a horse to revel in their beauties. Each little bay is but a slice of the high clitfj scooped out by the friction of the mighty pressure of the At- lantic waves ; and leading down to its shingled beach, each boasts of a lovely green valley through which infallibly a tumbling noisy trout-burn pours back the waters evaporated from the parent surface." (Lt.-Col. McCrea) The country about the capital is not naturally productive, but has been made to bring forth fruit and vegetables by careful labor, and now supports a considerable farming population. The roads are fine, being for the most part macadamized and free from mud. 8 M. beyond the city is the Lunatic Asylum, pleasantly situated in a small forest. Quiddy- Vtddy Lake is frequently visited by the people of St. John's. The favorite drive is to Portugal Cove, over a road that has been de- scribed as possessing a *'sad and desolate beauty." This road passes the ^^nd8or Lake, or Twenty-Mile Pond, " a large picturesque sheet of water, with some pretty, lonely-looking islands.*' The inn at Pokugal Cove looks out on a handsome cascade, and is a favorite goal for wedding-tours from St. John's. Barges run from St. John's to Topsail. " The scenery about Portugal Cove well repays the ride of nearly 10 M. on a good road from St. John-s. It is wildly romantic, and just before entering the village is very beautiful. A succession of lofty hills on each side tower over the road, and shut out everything but their conical or mammillated peaks, covered with wild stunted forest and bold masses of rock, breaking througli with a tiny waterfall from the highest, which in winter hangs down in perpendicular ridges of yellow ice. Turning suddenly out of one of the wildest scenes, you cross a little bridge, and the romantic scattered village is hanging over the abrupt rocky shore, with its fish-flakes and busy little anchorage open to the sight, closed in the distance by the shores of Conception Bay, lofty and blue, part of which are concealed by the picturesque Belle Isle." (.Sir R. Boxnycastls.) " On approaching Portugal Cove, the eye is struck by the serrated and picturesque outline of the hills which run along the coast from it towards Cape St. Francis, and presently delighted with the wild beauty of the little valley or glen at the mouth of which the cove is situated. The road winds with several turns down the side of the valley, into which some small brooks hurry their waters, flashing in the sun- shine as they leap over the rocks and down the ledges, through the dark green of the woods. On turning the shoulder of one of the hill-slopes, the view opens upon Conception Bay, with the rocky points of the cove immediately below." (Paor. JUKSS.) Another favorite excursion is to Virginia Water, the former summer residence of the governors of Newfoundland. It is reached by way of the King's Bridge and the pretty little Quiddy- Viddy Lake, beyond which the Ballyhaly Bog is crossed, and the carriage reaches the secluded domain of Virginia Water*. It is situated on a beautiful lake of deep water, 3 M. in circumference, " indented with little grass-edged bays, fringed and feathered to the limpid edge with dark dense woods." Beyond this point the drive may be protracted to Ijogie Bay, a small cove between projecting cliiTs, with bold and striking shore scenery. Logie Bay is 4 M., and Tor- bay is 8 - 9 M. from St. John's, by a fine road which crosses the h? jfh and mossy barrens, and affords bro'id sea-views from the cliffs. The cou.''.try is thinly settled, and is crossed by several trout-brooks. I rr 196 R(mte64. TORBAY. Logie Bay is remarkable fbr the wlldness of its rook and cliff Hcenery. " Nothing like a beach is to hf found anywheie on this coast, the descent to the sea being always difficult and generally impracticable. In Lo^e Bay the thick-bedded dark sandstones and conglonietates stand bold and bare in round>topped hills and preci- pices 3 - 400 ft. in height, with occasional fissures traversing their jagged cliffs, and the boi>ing waves of the Atlantic curling around their feet in white eddies or leaping against their sides with hujje spouts of founi and spray." (Prop. Jukes.) "Torbay Is an arm of the pea. — a short, strong arm with a slim hand and finger, reaching into the rocky land and touching the waterfalls and rapids of ii pretty brook. Here is a little village, with Romish and Protestant steeples, and the dwell- ings of fishermen, with the universal appendages of fi8hing-hou.«cs, boats, and flakes. One seldom looks upon a hamlet so picturesque and wild." On the N. shore of the bay is a long line of cliffs, 3-400 ft. high, surf-beaten and migestic. and finely ot'Served by taking a boat out from Torbay and roasting to the N. "At one point, where the rocks recede from the main front and form a kind of headland, the strata, 6-8 ft. thick, assume the form of a pyramid, from a broad ba.'^e of a hundred yards or more running up to meet in a point. The heart of this vast rave has partly fiillen out, and left the resemblance of ar enormous tent with cavernous reresses and halls, in which the shades of evening were already lurking, and the surf was sounding mournfully. Occasionally it was musical, pealing forth like the low tones of a great organ with awful solemnity. Now and then, the gloomy silence of a min- ute was broken by the crash of a billow far within, when the reverberations were like the slamming of great doors." •• After passing this grand specimen of the architecture of the sea, there appeared long rocky reached, like Egyptian temples, old dead cliffs of yellowish gray checked off by lines and seams into squares, and having the resemblance, where they have fiillen out into the ocean, of doors and windows opening in upon the fresher stone." (NOBLB.) ■ n ,_ 54. The Strait Shore of Avalon.— St. John's to Cape Bace. That portion of the Peninsula of Avalon which fronts to the eastward on the Atlantic has been tei'med the Strait Shore, on account of its generally undeviating line of direction. Its outports may be visited either by the Friday mail-con- veyance, through Petty Harbor, Bay Bulls, Ferryland, and Renewse, or by the Western Coastal steamer (sec Route 60). Distances by Koad. — St. John's to Blackhead, 4 M.j Petty Haibor, 10; Bay Bulls, 19 ; Witless Bay, 22 ; Mobile, 24 ; Toad Cove, 26 ; La Manche, 32 ; Brigus, 34; Cape Broyle, 38; Caplin Cove, 42; Ferryland, 44 ; Aquafort, 48; Fer- meuse, 51 ; Renewse, 54 ; Cape Race, 64. " The road, one of the finest I ever saw, — an old-fashioned English gravel-road, smooth and hard almost as iron, a very luxury for the wheels of a springless wagon, — keeps up the bed of a small river, a good-sized trout-stream, flowing from the in- land valley mto the harbor of St. John's. Contrasted with the bold re^iions that firont the ocean, these valleys are soft and fertile. We passed smooth meadows, and sloping plough-lands, and green pastures, and bouses peeping out of pretty groves. One might hrve called it a Canadian or New-Hampshire vale.' ' The road pa.s.'^cs several l!>.keli3ts and trout-streams, and gives fine views of the ocean on the 1. , being also one of the most, smooth and firmly built of highways. " No nation makes such roads as these, in a land bristling with rugged difficulties, that has not wound its way up to the summit of power and cultivation." The hills along the coast closely resemble the Cordillera peaks ; and from the bald summits on the W,, Trinity Bay may be seen. The mail-road running S. from St. John's passes Waterford Bridge and goon approaches Blackhead, a Catholic village near an iron-bound shore whose greaJt cliffs have been worn into fantastic shapes by the crash and attrition of the Atlantic surges. Near this place is Cape Spear, the most easterly point of North America, 1,656 M. from Valentia Bay, in Ireland. On the summit of the cape, 264 ft. above the sea, is a red-and-white striped tower sustaining a revolving light which is visible for 22 M. BAT BULLS. JtouUSl 197 The road now passes between *' woody banks rnnnlng through an un- dulating country but half reclairaed on the r., while on the I. the slopes stretch up to the breezy headlands, beyond which there is nothing but sea and cloud from this to Europe." Petty Harbor U 4 M. S. W. of Cape Spear and 10 M. from St. John's, and is a village of 000 inhabitants, with a refinery of cod-liver oil and long lines of evergreen fish-flakes. Off this point H. B. M. frigate Tweed was wrecked in 1814, and 60 men were drowned. The houses of Petty Harbor are situated in a narrow glen at the foot of frowning and barren ridges. The harbor at the foot of tliij ravine is small and insecure. The dark hills to the W. attain a height of 700 ft. along the unbroken shore which leads S. to Bay Bulls ; and at about 4 M. from Petty Harbor is the * Spout, a deep cavern in the sea- ward cliffs, in whose top is a hole, through which, at high tide and in a heavy sea, the water shoots up every half-minute in a roaring fountain which is seen 3 M. off at sea. The road now approaches lonclay Hill (810 ft. high), the chief elevation on this coast, and reaches Bay Bulls, a village of 700 inhabitants. This is one of the most important of the outports, and affords a refuge to vessels that are unable, on account of storms or ice, to make the harbor of St. John's. There are several farms near the bay, but most of the inhabitants are engaged in the cod-fishery, which is carried on from large open boat&.< This ancient settlement was exposed to great vicissitudes during the co»^flicts between the French and the English for the possession of Newfoundlund, and was totally destroyed by Admiral Richery (French) in 1796. Fine sporting is found in this vicinity, all along shore, and shooting-parties leave St. John's during the season for sevei'aV days' adventure hereabouts. In 1698 the French frigates Pelican, Diamant, Count de Toulouse, Vendange, Philippe, and Harcourt met the British man-of-war Sapphire off Cape Spear, and chased it into Bay Bulls. A naval battle of several hours' duration was closed by the complete discomfiture of the British, Avho set fire to the shattered Sapphire and abandoned her. The French sailors boarded her immediately, but were destroyed by the explosion of the magazine. Witless Bay is the next village, and has nearly 1,000 inhabitants, with a large and prominent Catholic church. Cod-fishing is carried on to a great extent off this shore, also off Mobile, the next settlement to the S. . Beyond the rock-bound hamlets of Toad Cove, La Manche, and Brigus, the road reaches Cape Broyle. In 1628 Cape Broyle was captured by Admiral de la Rade, with three French war- vessels, who also took the fishing-fleet then in the harbor. But Sir Oeoi^ Calvert Bent from the capital of Avalon two frigates (one of which carried 24 guns) and sev- eral hundred men, on whose approach " the French let slip their cables, and made to sea as fast as they could." Calvert's men retaliated by harrying the French stations at Trepassey, where they captured six ships of Bayonne and St. Jean de Luz. Cape Broyle is a prosperous fishing-settlement on Broyle Harbor, near tlie mountainous headland of Cape Broyle (652 ft high). There is good salmon-fishing on the river which runs S. E. to the harbor from the foot ofHellHJll. 198 RouUBl FERBTLAND. Ferryland is 2 M. beyond the Caplin-Gove settlement, and is the capi- tal of the district of Ferryland. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is well located on level ground near the head of the harbor. In the immediate vicinity are several prosperous farms, and picturesque scenery surrounds the harbor on all sides. To the S. E. is Ferryland Head, on which is a fixed white light, 200 ft. nbovc the sea, and visible for 16 M. OfTthis point are the slender spires of rock called the Hare's £ars, projecting from the sea to the height of 50 ft. In 1614 (16^) Kiofic James I. granted the great peninsula between Trinity and Placentia Bays to Sir Ucorgc Calvert, then Secretary of State. The grantee named hid new domain Avalcn, in honor of tlie district where CliriKtian tradition claims that the Gospel was first preached in Britain (the present Glastonbury). It was de- signed to found here n Christiun colony, with the broadest principles of toleration and charity. Calvert ecnt out a considerable company of fettlers, under the govem- nient of Capt. Wynne, and a colony was planted at Ferryland- The reports sent bacl( to England couceming the soil and productions of the new country were so favorable that Sir George Calvert and his family Foon joined the colonists. Under his administration an equitable government was established, fortifications were rrectcd, and other improvements instituted. Lord Baltimtre had but little pleasure of his settlement in;Avalon. He found that he had been greatly deceived about the climate and the nature of the soil. The Puritans also began to harasR him ; and Erasmus Stourton,onc of their ministers, not only preached dissent under his eyes at Ferryland, but went to England and reported to the Privy Council that Balti- more's priests (^aid mass and had " all the other ceremonies of the Church of Rome, in the ample manner as 't is used in Spain.*' Finally, after trials by storm and by schismatics. Lord Baltimore died (in lt°82), leaving to his Fon Cecil, 2d Lord Balti- more, the honor of founding Maryland, on the grant already secured from the king. In that more favored fouthern clime afterwards arose the ^Tcat city which com- memoratx's and honors the name of Baltimore. In 1637 Sir David Kirke was appointed Count Palatine of Newfoundland, and estab- lished himself at Ferryland. lie hoisted the royal standard on the forts, and main- tained a strong (and romctimes harsh) rule over the island. At the outbreak of the English Revolution (1642), Kirke's brothers joined King Charles's forces and fought bravely through the war, while Sir David strengthened his Newfoundland forts and established a powerf^il and well-armed fleet. He offered the King a safe asylum in his domain ; and the fiery Prince Rupert, with the royal Channel fleet, was sailing to Newfoundland to join Kirke's forces, when he was headed off by the fleet of the Commonwealth, under Sir George Ayscue. After the fall of the Stuarts, Sir David was carried to England in a vessel of the Republic (in 1661), to be tried on various charges ; but he bribed Cromwell's son in-law, and was released, returning to Ferry- land, where he died in 1656, after having governed the island for over 20 years. At a later day this town became a port of some importance, and was the scene of re- peated naval attacks during the French wars. In 1673 it was taken and plundered by 4 Dutch frigates. In 1694 Ferryland was attacked by 2 large French frigates, carrying 90 guns, which opened a furious cannonade on the town. But the fViUiam and Mary, 16, was lying in the harbor, with 9 merchant-ships, and their crews built batteries at the harbor-mouth, whence, with the guns of the privateer, they inflicted such dam- age on the enemy that they withdrew, after a 5 houi's' cannonade, having lost about 90 men. In 1762 the powerful French fleet of Admiral de Ternay was driven off by a battery on Bois Island. Aquafort lies S. W. of Ferryland, and is a small hamlet situated on a long, deep, and narrow harbor embosomed in lofty hills. The next settle- ment is Fermeuaej with 600 inhabitants and a Catholic church and convent. It is on the shore of Admiral's Cove, in the deep and secure harbor of Fermeuse, and the people are engaged in the cod and salmon fisheries. Benewse is an ".ncient and decadent port 16 M. S. of Ferryland, situated on CAPB RACE. Route 64, 199 an IndlfTerent harbor which lies between Bnmt Point and Renewse Head. 8 - 4 M. inland are the nigged hummocks called the Red Hills, whence the eastern hill range runs 80 M. N. across Avalon to Holyrood. 6-8 M. from Renewse are the tall and shaggy hills called the Batterpota, which command broad views over Avalon, and from Bay Bulls to the Vf. shore of Trepassey Bay. The Butterpots of Holyrood are alno Been from this point ; andProt Jukes counted 80 lakes in sight from the main peak (which is 966 ft. high). S. of this point extends a fatal iron-bound coast, on which scores of vessels, veiled in impenetnible fog or swept inward by resistless storms, have been dashed in pieces. A very slight error in reckoning will throw vessels bound S. of Cape Race upon this shore, and then, if the Cape Race and Ferryland lights are wrapped in the dense black fog peculiar to these waters, the chances of disaster are great. The erection of a fog-whistle on the cape has greatly lessened the perils of navigation here. The ocean steamships An^lo-Saxon^ -Argo, and City of FAUatielphia were lost on Cape Race. Cape Race is the S. E. point of Newfoundland, and is a rugged I'.ead- land of black slaty rock thrown up In vertical strata. It is provided with a powerful light, 180 ft. above the sea, and visible for 19 M. The great polar current sweeps in close by the cape and turns around it to the W. N. W., forming, together with the ordinary tides and the bay-currents, a complexity of streams that causes many wrecks. Icebergs are to be seen off this shore at almost all seasons, and the dense fogMtre often illumined by the peculiar white glare which precedes them. Field-ice is also common here during the spring and early summer, but is easily avoided by the warning of the *' ice blink." Throughout the summer and autumn the fog broods over this nhore almost incessantly, and vessels are navig^ated by casting the lead and following the soundings which are marked out with such precision on the Admi> ralty charts. 6 M. £. of Cape Race is the Ballard Bank, which is 18 M. long and 2-12 M. wide, with a depth of water ofl6 - 26 fathoms. Cape Riice is distant, by great-circle sailing, from New York, 1,010 M. ; Boston, 820; Portland, 779 ; St. John, N. B., 716; Halifax, 463; Miramichi, 492; Quebec, 836 ; Cape Clear, 1,713 ; Gal way, 1,721 ; Liverpool, 1,970. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland are about 50 M. E. of Cape Race. They extend for 4 degrees N. and S. and 5 degrees E. and W. (at 45* N. latitude) running S. to a point. They consist of vast submerged" sand- banks, on which the water is from 30 to 60 fathoms deep, and are strewn with shells. Here are found innumerable codfish, generally occupying the shallower waters over the sandy bottoms, and feeding on the shoals of smaller fish below. They pass out into the deeper waters late in Novem- ber, but return to the Banks in February, and fatten rapidly. Immense fleets are engaged in the fisheries here, and it is estimated that over 100,000 men are dependent on this industry. Throughout a great part of the spring, summer, and fall, the Grand Banks are covered by rarely broken fo^s, through which falls an almost incessant slow rain. Sometimes these fogs are eo dense that objects within 60 it. are totally invisible, at which times the fishing-vessels at anchor are liable to be run down by the great Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs (which drift across and ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sudden and intense coldness which they send through even a midsummer day, by the peculiar wliite glare in the air about them, and by the roaring of the breakers on their sides. It was on the Grand Banks, not far from Cape Race, that the first battle of the Seven Years' War was fought. June 8, 1755, the British 60-gun frigates Dunkirk 200 Houte 56. THE GRAND BANKS. and Dfjianee were emltdng about in a dense tog, when they met the French menHif> war Alr.id« and Lys. For five houn the battle continued, and a continual can- nonade wan kept up between the hostile ships. The French were oTermatched, but fought valiantly, inflicting heavy losses on the assailants (the Dunkirk alone lost 90 men). Wlien they finally surrendered, the Lys was found to contain 9400,000 in ■pecie and 8 companiefl of infantry. The vicinity of Cape Rare was for some time the cruising-ground of the U. S. frigate Constitution, in 1812, and in these waters stte captured the Adiona, the Ade- line, and other vesself*. Near the edge of the Grand Bank (in lat. 41° 41' N., long 56" 18' W.) occurred the fknious sea-flght between the Constitution and the Guerriire, whose result filled the United States with rejoicing, and impaired the prestige of the British navy. On the afternoon of Aug. 19, 1812, the Constitution sighted the Guerriire, and bore down upon her with double-shotted batteries. The British ship was somewhat in- ferior in force, but attacked the American with the confidence of victory. The Con- stitution received several broadsides in silence, but when within half pistol-shot dis- charged her tremendous batteries, and followed with such a fire of deadly precision that the Guerriire was soon left a dismasted and shattered wreck. The British ship then surrendered, having lost 101 men in the action, while her antagonist lost but 14. The Guerriire had 88 guns, and the Constitution had 44. Among the American privateers that cruised about the Grand Banks in 1812 - 14, none was more successful than the Mammoth, of Baltimore. She captured the ships Ann and Eliza, Urania, Anishy, Dobson, Sallust, Uniza, Sarah, Sir Horns Fophfun, ChampiWt Mentor, and many other rich prizes. " Far olT by stormy Labrador — Far off the Banks of Newfoundland, Where angry sens incessant roar, And foggy mists their wings expand, The flshing-schooners, black and low. For weary mouths sail to and fro." ■Y:'J 56. St. John's to Labrador.— The Northern Coast of New- foundland. The Northern mail-steamer leaves St. John's, N. F., every alternate Monday dur- ing the season of navigation, and visits the chief outports on theN. coast (so-called). The fores are as follows: St. John's to Bay-de-Verds, 10s., — steerage, 6 s. ; to Trinity, 20s., — steerage. 10s. ; to Bonavista, 27s. 6 d.,— steerage. 14s. ; to Greens- pond, 80s., — steerage, 158. ; to Fogo, 82 s. Od.; to Twillingate, 35 s. ; to Exploits Island, 37 8. 6 d. ; to Tilt Cove, Bett's Cove, or Nipper's Harbor, 40 s. At its most northerly port the steamer meets the Hercules, the Labrador mail-steamer. The fare on the Labrador steamer is $2 a day, which includes both passage and meals. The northern boats are powerful and seaworthy, but the fare at their tables is necessarily of the plainest kind. The time which will be required for the Labrador trip is nearly four weeks (from St. John's back to St. John's again). The expense is about Iff 50 The journey should be begun before the middle of July, in order to avail of the short summer in these high latitudes. It would be prudent for gentlemen who desire to make this tour to write eirly in the season to the agents of the steamship lines, to assure themselves of due connections and to learn other particulars. Mr. J. Taylor Wood is the agent at Halifax for the steamer from that port to St. John's : and Bowring Brothers, St. John's, N. F., are the agents for the Northern Coastal Line. Passing out between the stern and frowning portals of the harbor of St. John's, the steamer soon takes a northerly course, and opens the indenta- tion of Logic Bay on the W. (see page 196). After running by the tall cliffs of Sugar Loaf and Red Head (700 ft. high), Torbay is seen opening to the y , within which is the village of the same name. I 8 TRINITY. Jtoute 66. 201 ?erage, 6 8.; to 4 B. ; to OreeoB- About 8 M. beyond Torbay, the white shore of Cape St. Franoil Is seen on the port bow, and, if the water is rough, the great breakers may be seen whitening over the roclcs wliich are called the Brandies. The course is now laid across the mouth of Conception Bay, which is seen extending to the S. W. for 30 M. 18 M. from Cape St. Francis, and about 40 M. from St. John's, the steamer passes between Bay Verd Head and Split Poiht, and stops off Bay Verd, a village of about 600 inhabitants, situated on a broad and unsheltered bight of the sea. The fishing-grounds in this vicin- ity are among the best on tlie American coast, and attract large fleets of boats and schooners. The attention of tlie villagers is divided between farming and fishing, the latter industry being; by far the mosl: lucrative. Beads lead out from Bay Verd S. to Carbonear and Harbor Grace (see Route 66), and N. \V. to the settlements on Trinity Bay. Soon after leaving Bay Verd, the steamer passes Baccalieu Island^ a high and ridgy land 3 J M. long, and nearly 2 M. from the main. On its N. end is a pov»r- erful flashing light, elevated 380 fb. above the sea, and visible fo: ^% M. Although Cabot was the first professional discoverer (if the * 'm may be used) u5 visit and explore the shores of Newfoundland, there is no d ill >.. that these wattud had long been the resort of the flshing-tleets of the Normans, Bretvns, and Basqpies. Lescarbot claims that they had fished olT these shores '* for many centuries," and Cabot applied the name '^Baccalaos" to the country because "in the seas there- about he found so great multitudes of certain bigge fishes, much like unto Tunnies (which the inhabitants call Barcalaos), that they sometimes Stayed bis shippes." Baccalaos is the ancient Basque name for codfish, and its extensive use by the natives in plare of their own word Apegi, meaning the same thing, is held as con- clusive proof that they had been much in communication viith Basque fishermen before the arrival of Cabot. Cabot gave this name to the continent as far as he explored it, but in the map of 1640 it is applied only to the islet which now re- tains it. On her alternate trips the vessel rounds in about Grates Point, and stops at Old Perlican (see Route 57). Otherwise, it runs across the mouth of Trinity Bay for about 20 M., on a N. W. * .M;.r'?e, and enters the harbor of Trinity, 115 M. from St. John's. The enir^aice is bold and imposing, and the harbor is one of the best on the island, affording a land-locked anchor- age for the largest fleets. It is divided into two arms by a high rocky peninsula (380 ft. high), on whose S. side are the wharves and houses of the town. Trinity has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is a port of entry and the capital of the district of Trinity. Considerable farming is done in the coves near the head of the harbor. Roads lead out to the S. shore (see Route 57), and also to Salmon Cove, 6 M ; English Harbor, 7; Ragged Harbor, 16; and Catalina, 20. On leaving Trinity Harbor, the course is S. E until Green Bay Head and the Horse Chops are passed, when it turns to the N. E., and runs along within sight of a high and cliffy shore. Beyond the Ragged Isles is seen Gi'een Island, where there is a fixed white light, visible for 15 M., around which (through rough vi'ater if the wind is E.) the vessel passes, threading a labyrinth of shoals and rocks, and enters the harbor of Catalina, re- 9* i! ! i: 202 RmOe SB. BONAVISTA. markable for its sndden and frequent intermittent tides. The town of Catalina has 1,300 inhabitants, with 2 churches, of which that of the Epis* copalians is a fine piece of architecture, though built of wood. The main part of the settlement is on the W. side of the harbor, and has a consider- able maritime trade. The adjacent waters abound in salmon, and deli- cious edible whelks are found on the rocks. Besides the highway to Trmity (20 M.), a rugged road leads N. to Bonavista in 10 M. Catalina was visited in 1634 by Cartier, who named it St, Catherine. On leaving Catalina Harbor, North Head is passed, and after running N. E. by N. 3 M. Flowers Head is left on the port bow. About 2 M. be- yond, the Bird Islets are seen on the I., near which is the fishing-settlement oi Bird Island Cove (670 inhabitants), with its long and handsome beach. A short distance inland is seen the Burnt Ridge, a line of dark bleak hills rising to a height of 500 ft The DoUarman Bank, famous for codfish, is now crossed, and on the 1. is seen Cape Largent and Spiller Point, off which are the precipitous and tower-like * Spiller Bocks, surrounded by the sea. The steamer now passes Cape Bonavista, on which is a red-and-white flashing-light, 15Q ft. above the sea, and visible for 15 M. The re-discovery of Newfoundland (after the Northmen's voyages 6 centuries be- fore) was effected in June, 1497, by Cabot, a Venetian in the service of Henry TIT. of England, sailing in the ship Matthew^ of Bristol He gave the name of Bona Vista (" Fair "View "), or Prima Vista (" First View "), to the first point of the coast which he saw, and that name has since been attached to this northerly cape, since it ia believed that this was the location of the new-found shore. (The reader of Bid- die's "Memoirs of Sebastian Cabot" will, however, be much puzzled to know whiat point, if any, Cabot actually saw on these coasts.) The rocks and shoals to the N. are prolific in fish, and are visited by great flotillas of boats. After rounding the light, the steamer enters Bonavista Bay, a great bight of the sea extending between Capes Bonavista and Freels, a dis- tance of 37 M. About 4 M. S. W. of the cape, the steamer enters the har- bor of Bonavista, an ancjent marine town with 2,600 inhabitants and 8 churches. It is the capital of the district of the same name, and is also a port of entry, having a large and increasing commerce. The harbor is not secure, and during long N. W. gales the sea breaks heavily across the entrance. The Episcopal church is a fine building in English Gothic architecture, but the houses of the town are generally mean and small. Considerable farming .is done on the comparatively fei'tile lands in the vicinity, and it is claimed that the climate is much more genial and the air more clear than on the S. shores of the island. The town is 146 M. from St John's, and is 30 M. by road from Trinity and 10 M. from Catalina. It is one of the most ancient settlements on the coast, and signalized itself in 1696 by beating off the French fleet which had captured St. John's and ravaged the S. coasts. . BONAVISTA BAY. UmiUBS. 203 Bonavista Bay. A road leads 8. W. firam Bonavista to Birchy Core, 9 M. ; Amherst Oof», 12; King's Cove, 20 ; Keels Cove, 26 ; Tickle Cove, 83 ; Open Hole, 86 ; Plate Cove, 88 ; and Indian Arm, 43. King^s Cove is a village of Labrador fishermen, with 650 inhabitants and 2 churches. It is on a narrow harbor betweeu the lofty cliffs of the coast range, through whose passes a road runs S. to Trinity in 13 M. 3 M. from King's Gove is Broad Cove village, under the shadow of the peak of Southern Head. Keels is 6 M. from King's Gove, and does a considerable lumber business. Thence the road descends through Tickle Gove (2 M. from the picturesque Red Gliff Island) to the three villages on the S., each of which has 2-300 inhabitants. To the W. arc the deep estuaHes of Sweet Harbor, Glode Sound (20 M. long), and Newman Sound (11 M. long), penetrating the hill-country and exhibiting a succession of views of ro- mantic scenery and total desolation. Boats may be taken from Open Hole to Bar- row Harbor, a fishing settlement 10 M. N. W., at the mouth of Newman Sound, acd to Salvage, 16 M distant, a village of 600 inhabitants. 6 M. N. W., beyond the Bay of Fair and False, is Bloody Bay, a deep and narrow inlet with picturesque forest scenery, extending for several miles among the hills. The name was given on ac- count of the frequent conflicts which here ensued between the Red Indians and the fishermen. At the head of the bay is the Terra Nova River, descending from the Terra Nova Lake, which is 16 M. distant, and is 12 M. long. The N. shore of Bonavista Bay is visited most easily from the port of Greens- pond. Ihe communication is exclusively by boats, which may be engaged at the village. Nearly all the islands in the vicinity and for 10 M. to the S. W. and S. are occupied by small communities of hardy fishermen, and the shores of the main- land are indented with deep and narrow bays and sounds. To the N. are Pool's Island, 3 Id. ; Pincher's Island, 9 ; Gobbler's Island, 10 ; and Middle Bill Cove (near Cape Freels), 15. To the S. and W. are the Fair Island, 7 M. ; Deer Island, 11; Gottel's Island (three settlements), 15 ; the Gooseberry Isles, 12 ; and Hare Bay, 28. The last-named place is at the entrance of Freshwater Bay, which runs in for about 15 M., with deep water and bold shores. The great northern mail-road is being built along the head of this bay ; a short distance from which (by the river) are the Gambo Ponds, large lakes in the desolate interior, 23 M. long, abounding in fish. One of the best salmon-fisheries on the island is at the head of Indian Bay, 12 M. VV. of Qreenspond. On leaving Bonavista, the steamer runs N. by W. across Bonavista Bay, passing the Gooseberry Isles on the port bow. After over 8 hours' run, the N. shore is approached, and the harbor of Oreenspond is entered. This town contains over 1,000 inhabitants, and is situated on an island 1 M. square, so rugged that soil for house-gardens had to be brought from the mainland. A large business is done here in the fisheries and the seal- trade, and most <5f the inhabitants are connected with either the one or the other. The entrance to the harbor is difficult, and is marked by a fixed red light, visible for 12 M. The steamci' now runs N. E. and N. for about 18 M. to Cape Freell, passing great numbers of islands, some of which are inhabited by fisher- men, while others are the resort of myriads of sea-birds, who are seen hovering over the rocks in gi'eat flocks. Soon after passing the arid high- lands of Cape Freels, the course is laid to the N. W. across the opening of Sir Charles Hamilton's Sound, a broad and deep arm of the sea which is Btudded with many islands. Leaving the Cape Ridge and Windmill Hill astern, the Penguin Islands are seen, 16i M. from Cape Freels; and 6 M. farther N. W. the Wadham Ides are passed, where, on a lonely and surf- .xmimi 'mt^af^ i 204 ItouU 65. FOGO. beaten rock, is the Offer Wadhara lighthoase, a circular brick tower 100 ft. high, exhibiting a fixed white light, which is visible for 12 M. To the N. E., and well out at sea, is Funk Island^ near which are good sealihg- grounds. Funk Island was yisited by Cartier in 1534, who named it (and the a^Japient rocks) Les Isles des Oyseaux. Here he saw a white bear *' as large aa a cow," which had swum 14 leagues from Newfoundland. " He then coasted alono; all the northern part of that great island, and he says that you meet nowhere clue better ports or a more wretched country ; on every side it is nothing but frightful rocks, sterile lands covered with a scanty moss; no trees, but only some bushes half dried up; that nevertheless he found men there well made, who wore their hair tied on the top of the head." The isles were again visited by Cartier in July, 1535, in ttie ship Grand Hermine. '* If the soyle were as good as the harboroughcs are, it were a gie&t com- moditie ; but it is not to be called the new found land, but rather stones and cragges and a place fit for wilde bcastes In short, I believe this was the land allotted to Gaine." Such v/as the unfavorable description given by Jaques Cartier- of the land between Gape Bonavista and the Strait of Belle Isle. It is supposed that cither the Baccalieu or the Penguin Islands were the " Feather Islands," which the Annates Skalholtini and Ltgmann^s state were discovered by the Northmen in the year 1285. The Saga of Eric the Red tells that Leif, son of the Earl of Norway, visited the Labrador and Newfoundland shores in 994. "Then sailed they to the land, and cast anchor, and put ofT boats, and went ashore, and saw there no grass. Great icebergs were over all up the country, but like a plain of flat stones was aU from the sea to the mountains, and it appeared to them that this land had no good qualities." Leif named this country Helluland (from Hella,». flat stone), distingui.'^hing liabrador as Helluland it Mikla. In 1288 King Eric sent the mariner Rolf to Iceland to call out men for a voyage to these shores ; and the name Nyj'a Land, or Nyj'a Fundu Land, was then applied to the great island to the S., and was probably adopted by the English (in the Anglicized form of Neivfoundland) during the commercial intercourse between England and Iceland in the 15th cen- tury. 9i M. N. W. by N., Cape Fogo is approached, and is a bold promontory 214 ft. high, terminating Fogo Island on the S. E. The course continues to the N. W. off the rugged shores of the island, and at 6^ M. from Cape Fogo, Round Head is passed, and the steamer assumes a course more to the westward. 6 -8 M. from Round Head she enters the harbor of Fogo, a port of entry and posf-town 216 RI. from St. John's. The population is 740, with 2 churches ; and the town is of great local importance, being the depot of supplies for the fishing-stations of the N. shore. (See also Route 68 for this and other ports in the Bay of Notre Dame.) "The western headlands of Fogo are exceedingly attractive, lofty, finely broken, of a red and purplish brown, tinted here and there with palu green As we pass the bold prominences and deep, narrow bays or fiords, they arc continually changing and surprising us with a new scenery. And now the great sea-wall, on our right, opens and discloses the harbor and village of Fogo, the chief place of the island, gleaming in the setting sun as if there were flames shining through the windows. Looking to the left, all the western region is one fine ^gean, a sea filled with a mul- titude of isles, of manifold forms and sizes, and of every height, from mountain pyra- mids and crested ridges down to rounded knolls and tables, rocky ruins split and shattered, giant .«labs sliding edgewis^c into the deep, columns and grotesque masses rufiSed with curling surf, — the Cyclades of the west. I climb the shrouds, and be- hold fields and lanes of water, an endless and beautiful network, a little Switzerland with her vales and gorges filled with the purple sea." (Noble.) In passing out of Fogo Harbor, the bold bluff of Fogo Head (345 ft. high) is seen on the 1., back of which is Brimstone Head. The vessel steams TWILLINGATE. Xmd 66, 205 (i^Jac^nt rocka) 9w," which had in to the W., np the Bay of Notre Dame, soon passing Fogo Head, and opening the Change Island Tickles on the S. Change Island is then seen on the 1., and the coarse is laid across to the lofty and arid hills of Bacca- lieu Island. At 22 M. from Fogo the steamer enters the harbor of Twil- lingate (the Anglicized form of Toulinguet, the ancient French name of the port). The town of Twillingate is the capital of the district of Twil- lingate and Fogo, the most northerly political and legal division of New- foundland, and has a population of 2,790, with 3 churches. It is situated on two islands, and the sections are connected by a bridge. Farming is carried on to a considerable extent in the vicinity, but with varying suc- cess, owing to the short and uncertain summers. The houses in the town are (as usually iit the coast settlements) very inferior in appearance, snugness and warmth being the chief objects sought after in their archi- tecture. The finest breed of Newfoundland dogs were formerly found about the Twillingate Isle!*, and were generally distinguished by their deep black color, with a white cross on the breast. They were smaller than the so-called Newfoundland dogs of America and Britain ; were almost amphibious ; and lived on flsh, salted, fresh, or decayed. LiXe the great mahogany-colored dogs of Labrador, these animals were distinguished for rare intelligence and unbounded affection (especially for children) ; and were exempt from hydropuobia. A Newfoundland dog of pure blood is now worth from $75 to 8100. The steamer passes out of Twillingate Harbor and runs by Gull Island. The course is to the S. W., off the rugged shores of the Black Islets, and the N. promontory of the great New World Island. 14 M. from Twillingate she reaches the post-town of EzploltB Island, a place of 530 inhabitants, with a large fleet of Ashing- boats. (See also Route 58. ) From Exploits Island the Bay of Notre Dame is crossed, and the harbor of Tilt Cove is entered. This village has 770 inhabitants, and is prettily situated on the border of a picturesque lake. The vicinity is famous for its copper-mines, which were discovered in 1857 and opened in 1865. Be- tween 1865 and 1870, 45,000 tons of ore, valued at $1,180,810, were extracted and shipped away. It is found in pockets or bunches 3-4 ft. thick, scattered through the heart of the hills, and is secured by level tun- nels several thousand feet long, connected with three perpendicular main ehatts, 216 ft. deep. There is also a valuable nickel-mine here, with a lode 10 inches thick, worked by costly machinery, ancl producing ore worth $ 332 a ton. A superior quality of marble is founa in the vicinity, but is too far from a market to make it worth while to quarry. The male inhab- itants of Tilt Cove are all miners. The next stopping-place is at Nipper's Harbor, a small fishing-village 10 M. S. W. of Tilt Cove. The harbor is the best on the N. shore of the Bay of Notre Dame, and lies between the Nipper's Isles and the mainland. On alternate trips the mail-steamer calls also at Little Bay JsJhndf 6-8 M. S. of Nipper's harbor. II t 206 Jt(»tU 66, CONCEPTION BAY. The great copper-mines of this region now employ thousands of miners, and produce vast quantities of rich ore. The new railway from St. John's is heading toward the N. shore of the Bay of Notre Dame, to reac& the mines. They are owned in London, and much of the ore is sliipped to Wales, to be smelted. Since the year 1880, these remote shores have received great accessions of population; a telegraph line has been built along the coasi io St. John's ; and new roads begin to reach in- land, including the g: -'t highway across the island, to Indian Pond, Grand Lake, and ? ay of Islands, surveyed in 1878, in which year Governor Sir John Glover and the Rev. M. Harvey crossed the island on this line, in canoes, finding imntiense areas of arable and grazing land, deposits of coal and other minerals, etc. The Hercules connects with the Northern Coastal steamer at its last port, and goes on to Labrador (see pages 223 to 229). 56. St. John's to Conception Bay. The new railway runs out firom St. John's towards Conception Bay, connecting with mail-stages for rarioua localities. It is under contemplation to extend a branch of the railway by Harbor Grace to Carbonear. A small steamboat plies up and down tho bay bt certain seasons. Fares. — Portugal Cove to Brigus, 18 M., fare $1.40 ; to Carbonear, 20 M. ; to Bay Roberts, 20 M. ; to Harbor Grace, 20 M., fare, $1.60. There is also a road extending around Conception Bay. It is 20 M. from St. John's to Topsail, by way of Portugal Cove, passing Beachy, Broad, and Horse Coves. The more direct route leads directly across the N. part of Avalon from St. John's to Topsail. The chief villages and the distances on tliis road are as follows : St. John's to Topsail, 12 M. ; Killigrews, 18; Holyrood, 28; Chapt^'s Cove, 83; Harbor Main, 34^ ; Salmon Cove, 37 ; Colliers, 40; Brigus, 46 ; Port de Grave, 51 ; Spaniard's Bay, 66; Harbor Grace, 63; CarbonpnTi 67i^; Salmon Cove, 72; Spout Cove, 76^; Western Bay, 82; Northern Bay, 87; Island Gove, 98^; Caplin Cove, 07 ; Bay Verd, 106. The stage-road, after leaving St. John's, traverses a singular fanning country for several miles, and then enters a rugged region of hills. Portu- gal Cove is soon reached, and is picturesquely situated on the ledges near the foot of a range of highlands. It contains over 700 inhabitants, with. 2 churches, and has a few small farms adjacent (see page 196). Gaspiar Cortereal* explored this coast in the year 1600, and named Conception Bay. He carried home such a favorable account that a Portuguese colony wa; es* tablished at the Cove, and 60 ships were sent out to the fisheries. In 1678, 400 sail of vessels were seen in the bay at one time, prosecuting the fisheries under uU flags. The colony was broken up by the English fleet under Sir Francis Drake, who a^ drove the French and Portuguese fishermen from the coast. Belle Isle lies ofT shore 3 M. from the Cove, whence it may be visited by ferry- T>oats (also from Topsail). This interesting island is 9 M. long and 3 M. wide, and is traversed by a line of bold hills. It is famous for the richness of its deep black soil, and produces wheat, oats, potatoes, and hay, with the best of butter. Tho lower Silurian geological formation is here finely displayed in long parallel strata, amid which iron ore is found. The cliffs which fi-ont on the shrre are very bold, and sometimes overhang the water or else are cut into strange and fantastic shapes by the action ,of tho sea. Two or three brilliant little waterfalls are seen leaping firom the upper levels. Belle Isle has 600 inhabitants, located in two viUagefl, Lance Cove, at the W. end, and the Beooh, on the S. HARBOR GRACE. HmtU 66. 207 inds of miners, trom St. John's e, to reach the e is shipped to >te shores have line has heen fin to reach in- > Indian Pond, , in which year id the island bn I grazing land, imer at its last 11 Bay, connecting to extend a branch IS. rbonear, 20 M. ; to ; is 20 M. from St. Broad, and Horse ot Avalon from St. •oad ire as follows : Miapcl's Cove, 83 ; Port de Grave, 61 ; n Cove, 72 ; Spout 93i; CapUn Cove, singular farming 1 of hills. Portu- m the ledges near inhabitants, with* > 195). named Conception wese colony was es- i. In 1678, 400 saU eries under all flags. Lcis Drake, who also be visited by ferry- ; and 3 M. wide, and ess of its deep black est of butter. The long parallel strata, Bhrire are very bold, and fantastic shapes tils are seen leaping 1 two villages. Lance The steamer nms out to the S. W. between Belle Isle and the bold heights about Portugal Gove and Broad Cove, and passes up Conception Bay for 18 M., with the lofty Blue Hills on the S. It then enters the mr- row harbor of Brigns {Sullivan's Hotel)^ a port of entry and the capital of the district of Brigus. It has 2,000 inhabitants, with Wesley an. Roman, and Anglican churches, and a convent of the Order of Mercy. The town is built on the shores of a small lake between two rugged hills, and pre> sents a picturesque appearance. It has over 800 boats engaged in the cod-fishery, and about 30 larger vessels in trading and fishing. There are a few farms in the vicinity, producing fair crops in return for great labor. The best of these are on the bright meadows near Clark's Beach, 4 M. from the town; and several prosperous villages are found in the vicinity. Near the town is the singular double peak called the Twins, and a short distance S. W. is the sharp and conical Thumb Peak (598 ft. high). The steamer passes out from the rock-bound harbor and runs N. by the bold hill of Brigus Lookout (400 ft. high). Beyond Burnt Head, Bay de Grave is seen opening on the 1., with several hamlets, aggregating 2,600 in- habitants. Cupids and Bareneed are the chief of these villages, the latter being on the narrow neck of land between Bay de Grave and Bay Roberts, 2j^ M. from Blow-me-down Head. Green Point is now rounded, and the course is laid S. W. up Bay Roberts, passing Coldeast Point on the port bow and stopping at the village of Bay Bobeits {Moore's Hotel). This place consists of one long street, with 2 churches and several wharves, and has 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom spend the summer on the Lab- rador coast. Passing out from Bay Roberts, Mad Point is soon left abeam, and Span- tardus Bay is seen on the 1., entering the land for 8^ M., and dotted with fishing-establishments. The bay is surrounded by a line of high hills, on whose promontories are two or three chapels. The hamlet and church of BryanVs Cove are next seen, in a narrow glen at the base of the hills, and the steamer passes on around the dangerous and surf-beaten Harbor- Grace Islands (off Feather Point), on one of which is a revolving white* and-red flash light, 161 ft. above the sea, and visible for 18 M. Harbor Grace (two inferior inns) is the second city of Newfoundland, and is the capital of the district of Harbor Grace. It has 6,770 inhab- itants, with several churches, a weekly newspaper, and fire and police departments. Tb«> town is built on level land, near the shelter of the Point of Beach with its wharves well protected by a long sand-strip. The bay is in the form of a wedge, decreasing from li M. in width to ^ M., and is insecure except in the sheltered place before the city. The trade of this port is very large, and about 200 ships enter the harbor yearly. There is a stone court-house and a strong prison, and the Con- vent of the Presentation is on the Garbonear road. The Roman CathoUo ^iWIWi'fclt|»»l>~#%j i{i,ji ;. 208 RimU 67. CABBONEAB. cathedral is the finest building in the city, and its high and symmetrical dome is a landmark for vessels entering the port. The interior of the cathedral is profusely ^""namented, having been recently enlarged and newly adorned. Most of the houses in the city are mean and unprepos- sessing, bein^j rudely constructed of wood, and but little improved by painting. A rugged road runs N. ^S' 16 M. across the peninsula to H^'«^ rt's Content (see Route 57). A road to the N. reaches (in 1^ M.) the faraniDg viliage ot Mos-;V.iu>- Cove, snugly embosomed in a pretty glen near the <'altivat- .:,,;.. Al)OUt. tie iipany la whki) lits and nobles. 3 Bonavista aud . from Harb'jT low Fo;:it and itartts, witb 8 arv^^- are bnilt ommodate the il Cove, across irly in the 17th icupied by the towns that re- in captured by ns were beaten icent coast was I garrisoned by he Tillages of Cro- ), 8 ; Broad Cove, d Cove, 27 ; Low e "coves" being ihorage. The in- pts at fanning, in mon Cove is near for its great nuni- which is used for ed their name of s clay. mer (see Eoute BB) John's to Harbor 5 M.) The latter •tion Bay. f-way up Trinity in the Labrador is very striking, eems peculiar to small lake, over which rises the dark mass of Mizztn Hilly 604 ft. high. Heart's Content derives its chief importance and a world-wide fame, from the fact that here is the W. terminus of the old Atlantic telegraph-cable. The office of the company is near the Episcopal Church, and is the only good building in the town. " Throb on, strong pulie of thunder i beat From answering beach to beach ; Fuse nations in thy kindly heat. And melt the chains of each I " Wild terror of the sky above. Glide tamed and dumb below t Bear gently. Ocean's carrier-dove, Thy errands to and fro. " Weave on, swift shuttle of the Lord, Beneath the deep so far, The bridal robe of earth's accord. The funeral shroud of war ! " For lo t the fall of Ocean's wall Space mocked and time outrun ; And round the world the thought of all Is as the thought of one." John Q. Whittibb s Cable Hymn. The road running N. from Heart's Content leads to New Perlican, 3 M. ; Sillee Cove, 6 M. ; Hants Harbor, 12 ; Seal Cove, 19 ; Lance Cove, 24 ; Old Perlican, ^; and Orate's Cove, 34. New Perlican is on the safe harbor of the same name, and has about 420 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the cod-fishery and in ship- building. A packet-boat runs from this point across the Bay to Trinity. Near the village is a large table-rock on which several score of names have been inscribed, some of them over two centuries old. Old Perlican is about ttie size of Heart's Conteut, and is scattered along the embayed shores inside of Perlican Island. It is overlooked by a crescent-shaped range of dark and barren hills. The Northern Coastal steamer calls at this port once a month during the season of navigation. •* O lonely Bay of Trinity, O dreary snores, give ear t Lean down into the white-lipped sea, The voice of God to hear f •• From world to world His couriers fly, Thought-winged and shod with fire ; The angel of His stormy sky Rides down the sunken wire. " What saith the herald of the T^rd ? * The world s long strife is done : Close wedded by that mystic cord, Its continents are one. " ' And one in heart, as one in blood, Hhall all her peoples be ; The hands of human brotherhood Are clasped beneath the sea.' The southern road flrom Heart's Content leads to Heart's Desire, 6 M. ; Heart's Delight, 9; Shoal Bay, 14 ; Witless Bay, 19 ; Oreen Harbor, 23; Hop«All,28; New Harbor, 82 ; and Dildo Cove, 35. The villages on this road are all small, and are mostly inhabited by the toilers of the sea. The country about Green Harbor and Hope All is milder and more pastoral than are the cliff-bound regions on either side. From New Harbor a. road runs £. by Spaniard's Bay (Conception Bay) to St. John's, in 68 M. To the S. and W. lie the fishing-hamlets on the narrow isthmus of Avalon, which separates PlacentiaBay from Trinity Bay by a strip of land 7M. long, joining the peninsula of Avalon to the main island. The deep estuary called Bull ^rm runs up amid the mountains to within 2 M. of the Come-by-chance River of Piacentia Bay, and here it is proposed to make a canal joining the two bays. Heart's Ease is 15 M. from Heart's Content (by boat), and ie at the S. entrance of Random Sound. It is a fishing-village with 200 inhabitants aud a church. To the S. is the grand cliff-scenery around St. Jones Harbor, and the long and river- like Deer Harbor, filled with islands, at whose head is Centre Hill, an isolated cone over 1,000 ft. high. From the summit of Centre Hill or of Crown Hill may be seen nearly the whole extent of the Piacentia and Trinity Bays, with their capes and islands, villages and harbors. Just above Heart's Ease is Random Island, covering a large area, and separated fh>m the main by the deep and narrow watercourses called Random Sound and Smith's Sound. There is much fine scenery In the sounds and their deep arms, and salmon-fishing is here carried on to a considerable extent. There are Immense quantities of slate on the shores, some of which has been qnar* N 210 RmUe68, RIVER OF EXPLOITS. fled (ftt TVnton Grore). The two wmnds an about 80 M. long, Ibnninf tfin* itdai of a Bqoare around Random Island, and have a width of from i M. to 2 M. " Tho ■ail up Smith's Sound was very beautiful. It is a fine river-like arm of the soa, 1-2 M. wide, with lofty, and in many places precipitous, rocky banks, covered with wood. .... The character of the scenery of Random Sound is wild and beautiftil, and coa- Teying, from its stillness and silence, the feeling of utter solitude and seclusion." Trinity is the most convenient point from which to visit the N. shore of the Bay (see page 201). The southern road runs to Trouty, 7 M.; New Bonaventure, 12 M. ; and Old Bonaventure, 18 M. Beyond these settle- ments is the N. entrance to Random Sound. 68. The Bay of Notre Dame. Passengers are landed from the Northern Coastal steamer at Fogo, Twillingate, Little Bay Island, Nipper's Harbor, or Ti)!. Cove, — all porta on this l»y (see pages 204, 205). Fogo is situated on Fogo Island, which lies between Sir Charles Ham- ilton's Sound and the Bay of Notre Dame. It is 13 M. long from £. to W., and 8 M. wide, and its shores are bold and rugged. There are 10 fishing- villages on the Island, with nearly 2,000 inhabitants (exclusive of Fogo), and roads lead across the hills from cove to cove. It is 9 M. by road from Fogo to Cape Fogo; 7 M. to Shoal Bay ; 6 to Joe Batt's Arm (400 inhabitants) ; 7 to Little Seldom -come-by ; and 9 to Seldom-eome-by, a considerable village on a fine safe harbor, which is often filled with fleets of schoon^ ers and brigs, if ice on the coast or contrary winds prevent the fishermen from reaching Labrador in the early summer, hundreds of sail bear away for this harbor, and wait here until the northern voyage is practicable. There is no other secure anchorage for over 50 M. down the coast Tilton Harbor is on the £. coast of the Island, and is a Catholic village of about 400 inhabitants. The principal settlements reached by boat from Fogo are Apsey Cove, 14 M. : Indian Islands, 14; BiacKhead Cove, 14 ; Rocky Bay, 25 ; Barr'd Islands, 4 ; and Change Islands, 8. 20 M S. W. is Gander Bay , the outlet of the great Gander-Bay Ponds, which bathe the slopes of the Blue Hills and the Heart Ridge, a chain of mountains 30 M. long. From Easphits Island (see page 205) boats pass S. Vi M. through a great archipelago to the mouth of the River of Exploits. This noble river de- scends from Red-Indian Pond, about 90 M. to the S. W., and has a strong current with frequent rapids. The Grand Falls are 145 ft. high, where the stream breaks through the Chute-Brook Hills. An Indian trail leads from near the mouth of the river S. W. across the vast barrens of the in- terior, to the Bay of Despair, on the S. coast of Newfoundland. The River of Exploits flows for the greater part of its course through level lowlands, covered with evergreen forests. It may be ascended in steamers for 12 M., to the first rapid, and from thence to the -Red-Indian Fond by boats (making frequent portages). . The river was first ascended by Lieut. Buchan, R. N., in 1810, under orders to find and conciliate the Red Indians, who had fled to the interior after being nearly ex- terminated by the whites. He met a party of them, and left hostages in their hands while he carried some of their number to the coast. But his guests decamped, and he returned only to find that the hostages had been cruelly murdered, and the tribe had fied to the remote int ^rior. In 1823 three squaws were captured, taken to St. John, loaded with presents, and released ; since which time no Red Indians have bean seen, and it is not known whether the tribe is extinct, or has fled to Iiabrador, RED-INDIAN POND. JtouUBS, 211 or ti Melnded in aome mors ramot* part of the interior. Thej were very nvmnooM at the time of the adrent of the Europeans, and reoeired the new-comera with con- fldence ; bat thereafter for two centuries they were hunted down for the sake of the rich fiirs in their possemion, and i^radually retired to the distant inland lakes. In 1827 the BcQothic Society of §t John's sent out envoys to find the Red Indians and open friendlj' intercourse with tbeoi. But they were unable to get sight of a single Indian during long weeks of rambling through the interior, and it is con- cluded that the race is extinct. On the shores of the broad and beautiful Red-Indian Pond Mr. Cormack found several long-deserted villages of wigwams, with canoes, and curious aboriginal cemeteries. This was evidently the fivorite seat of the tribe, and from this point their deer-fences were seen for over 30 M. (see also pag<7 218). Little Bay Island (250 inhabitants), 15 l^I. from Tilt Cove, is tlie most favorable point from which to visit Hall's Bay. 8 M. S. W. are the settle^ ments at the mouth of Hall's Bay, of which Ward's Harbor is the chief, having 200 inhabitants and a factory for canning salmon. There are valu- able salmon-fisheries near the head of the bay. From Hall's Bay to the N. and W., and towards White Bay, are the favorite summer feeding-grounds of the immense herds of deer which range, almost unmolested, over the in- terior of the island. The hunting-grounds are usually entered from this point, and sportsmen should secure two or three well-certified Micmac guides. A veteran British sportsman baa written of this region : " I know of no conntrj BO near England which oQcrs the eamo amount of inducement to the explorer, natu- ralist, or sportsman." It is to be hoped, however, that no future visitors will imi- tate the atrocious conduct of a party of London sportsmen, who recently entered these hunting-grounds and massacred nearly 2,000 deer during the short season, leaving t'ae forests filled with decaying game. Public opinion will sustain the Mic- mac Indians, who are dependent on tho deer for their living, and who have declared that they will prevent a repetition of such carnage, or punish its perpetrators in a summary manner. The Indians and the half-breed hunters frequently cross the island tvova Hall's Bay by ascending Indian Brook in boats for about 2o M., and then making a port- age to the chain of ponds emptying into Grand Pond, and descending by Deer Pond and the Humbcr River (skirting the Long Range) to tho Cay of Islands. The transit is both arduous and perilous. 20 M. inland are the mountains called the Tfirea Towers, from whose summit may be seen the Grand Pond, the Bay of Exploits, and the Strait of Belle Isle. The deer migrate to the S. W. in the autumn , and pass the winter near St. George's Bay and Cape Ray The Red Indians constructed many leagues of fence, from the Bay of Notre Dame to Red-Indian Pond, by which they intercepted the herds during their passage to the S. , and laid in supplies of provLions for the winter. Ked-Iudian Pond is about S3 M. S. W. of Hall's Bay. It is 40 M. long by 5-6 M. wide, and contains man^ islands. To the S. lie the great interior lakes, ii an unexplored and trackless region. The chief of these are Croaker's Lake (10 M. distant), filled with islets ; Jameson's Lake, 20 M. long, between Serpentine Mt. and Mt. Misery ; Lake Bathurst, 17 by 5 M. ; and George IV. Lake, 18 by 6 M. 15 M. W. of Red-Indian Pond is Grand Pond, which is 60 M. long. (See page 218. ) From Nipper- s Harbor the sportsman may pass up Green Bay, to the S. W., and eater the hunting-grounds (having first taken care to secure trusty guides). On the N. side of the bay is a copper-mine that was opened in 1869, and has yielded well. Tilt Cove is 23 M. from Hall's Bay, 80 M. from New Bay, and 24 M. from Nim- rod. 7 M. distant is Burying Place, a small fishing-village, near which have been found numerous birch-bark coffins and other memorials of the Red Indians. A road runs N. E from Tilt Cove, passing in 3 M. Round Harbor, which is prolific iu cop- per ; and in 4 M Shoe Cove, famous for trout, and the station of a government boat which here watches the French fisheries. A road runs N. 7 M. from Shoe Cove to La Scit, on the Frenoh Shore (see Route 61). 21Sf JlouU 69. PLACENTIA BAT. 00. PlacentiaBay Is included between Cape St. Mary and Cape Chapean Ronge, and is 48 M. wide. Flaoentia is tiie capital of the eastern sliore, dnd is a port of entry and post-town, 80 M. from St. Joiin's by road. It is built along a level strand, overshadowed by round detached hills, and maintains a large fleet of fishing-boats. There are remarkable cliffs on Point Verde and Dixon Island, near the town ; and the views from Signal Hill and Castle Hill extend far out over the bay. There is much romantic scenery along the narrow channels of the N. E. and S. E. Arms, which extend from the h&rbor in among the mountains. In the year 1660 Placentia Bay was entered by two French frigates, which eaUcd up into tbe harbor and landed a strong force of soldiers, with heavy artillery and other munitions. Here they erected a strong fort, occupying a point so near the channel that the Baron La Hontan (who was detached for duty here) said that '* ships going in graze (so to speak) upon the angle of the bastion." The French held this post until 1713, when it was surrendered, according to the terms of the treaty of Utrecht. Tbe port became famous as the resort of the French privateers which were destroy* log the English fisheries, and Commodore Warren was sent out (in 1692) with three 60-gUD frigates and two smaller vessels to destroy the town. Warren ran in close to Placentia and opened fire, but was warmlv received by the batteries at the en- trance and by Fort St. Louis. After a heavy cannonade of six hours' duration, the English fleet was forced to draw off. In 1696 Iberville gathered 14 war-vessels at Placentia, and having received 400 men of Quebec, sailed to the E. and overran all the Atlantic coast of Newfoundland, returning with 40-50 prize-ships and 600 prisoners. In 1697 the great French fleet, which (under Iberville) destroyed all the British posts on Hudson's Bay, gathered here. So much did the British dread the batteries of Placentia and the warlike enthusiasm of M- de Ccstabelle, its com- mander, that Admiral Walker, anchored at Sydney, with a splendid fleet carrying 4,000 land-soldiers and 900 cannon, refused to obey his orders to reduce this little French fortress, and sailed back to Britain in disgrace. When France surrendered Newfoundland, in 1713, the soldiers and citizens of Placentia migrated to Cape Bre- ton ; and in 1744 a French naval expedition under M. de Brotz failed to recapture It from the British. This town afterwards became one of the chief ports of the Province ; but has of late years lost much of its relative importance. A road runs hence to St. John's in 80 M. ; also through the settlements on the S. to Bisiress Cove in 26 M. ; also S. W. 38 M. to Tranch, on St. Mary's Bay. Little Placentia is on a narrow harbor 6 M. N. of Placentia, and has 388 inhabitants. Near this point is a bold peak of the western range in Avalon, from which 67 ponds are visible. The islands in the bay are visited from this point. Ram's Islands (133 inhabitants) are 10 M. dis- tant; Red Island (227 inhabitants) is 12 M. W.; and about IS M. distant is Merasheen Island, which is 21 M. long, and has on its W. coast the Ragged Islands, 365 in number. The great lead-mines at Lm Manche are 12 M. N. of Little Placentia, on the Isthmus of Avalon, 7 M. from Trinity Bay. At the head of the bay, 83 M. from Little Placentia, is the village of North Harbor, near the great Powder-Horn Hills, and 7 M. beyond is Black River, famous for its wild-fowl and other game. Harbor Buffet is 16 M. fh>m Little Placentia, on the lofty and indented Long Island, and has 333 inhabitants. Near the S. W. part of Placentia Bay is the town and port of Burlu, a station of the Western Coastal steamers (see page 214). ST. MARY'S BAY. RouU GO. 213 B, and Is 48 L is a port of ,uilt along a itains a large it Verde and ill and Castle icenery along end from the which eaUcd up ilkry and other «ar the channel at *' ships going I held this post eaty of Utrecht, h were destroy- 1692) with three ren ran in close teries at the en- rs' duration, the 14 war-vessels at and overran aU e-ships and 600 Ic) destroyed all the British dread stahelle, its com- lid fleet carrying reduce this little Bnce surrendered ited to Cape Bre- iled to recapture ihief ports of the ce. A road runs the S. to Disiress tia, and has 3f3 jstem range in in the bay are ) are 10 M. dis- 18 M. distant is :oast the Ragged ,cAe are 12 M. N. Trinity Bay. At village of North )eyond is Black _nd indented Long lia Bay Is the town «e page 214). 60. The Western Ontports of Newfoundland. — St. John*! to Cape Ray. On aUi»mate Thurndayn or Prldayn nf>cr the arrival of the mails fW«n Earope, th« Wr-stern Coastal Fteani^r leaves St. John's for the ontports on the S. shore Farcft. — St. John's to Ferrvland, 10 s. ; Renewse, 10 s. : Trepassey, 17 «. 6d. ; S^. Marv's or Placentia, 20s. : Burin. 25 8 ; St. Lawrence, 27s. 6d. ; Grand Bank, a«>s.: St. Pierre, 82s. 6d. ; Harhor Briton, 37 « 6d ; Gaultols or Great Jervoia, 87s. 6d. : Burpeo, 45 s. ; La Poile, 47 s. 6d. ; Rose Blanche, 50s ; Channel, 66s. ; Sydney, 70 s. Meals are included. The trip out and back takes 10 to 12 days. St. John's to Cape Race, see Route 54. Passln* through the rocky portals of the harbor of St. John's, the steamer directs her course to the S. along the iron-bound Strait Shore. After visiting Ferryland and Renewse (see page 198), the Red Hills are pcen in the W. ; and beyond the lofty bare summit of Cape Ballard, the dreaded cliffy of Cape Baoe (page 199) are rounded well off shore. Off Freshwater Point the course is changed to N. W., and Trepassey Bay is entered. The shores are lofty and bare, and open to the sweep of the sea. 8^ M. from Freshwater Point is Powles Head, on whose W. side the harbor of Trepassey is sheltered. The town contains 614 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries, anJ fronts on a secure harbor which U never closed by ice. Roads lead hence to Salmonier (31 M ) and Renewse. In 1628 Lord Baltimore's ships of Avalon, the Benediction and the Vtctorvy, entered Trepassey Bay under full sail, bent on attacking the French settlement. The Bene- diction first greeted the fleet with several cauuon-shot, after which she sent a terriflo broadside among the vessels. The Basque sailors fled to the shore, and the Victory ^ lowering her boats, took possession of all the vessels in the harbor and bore them away as prizes. The town of i'repassey was destroyed by a British naval attack in 1702. The steamer now runs S. W. to and around Cape Fine, on which ia a tall circular tower which upholds a fixed light 314 ft. above the sea, visible at a distance of 24 M. 1 M. W. N. W. is Cape Freels, a little beyond which is St. Shot's Bay. This narrow shore between Cape Pine and St. Shot's is said to be the most danger* ous and destructive district on the North American coast, and has been the scene of hundreds of shipwrecks. The conflicting and variable ^.urrents in these waters set toward the shore with great force, and draw vessels inward upon the ragged ledges. In former years disasters were frequent here, but at present mariners are warned ofT by the Admiralty charts and the lights and whistles. St. Shot's is as dreaded a name on the N coast as Cape Hatteras is in the southern sea. Inl816 the transport Harpooner was wrecked on Cape Pine, and 200 people were lost. St. Mary's Bay U bounded by Cape Freels and Lance Point, and extends for 28 M. into the Peninsula of Avalon. On the £. shore is St. Mary^s, a court-hou.<:e town and port of entry, situated on a deep land-looked harbor, and largely engaged in fishing. To the S. is the mountainous Cape English, near which a narrow sandy be:ic'a separates the bay from Holyrood Pond, a remarkable body of fresh water over 12 M. long. It is 65 M. by road from St. Mary's to St. John's ; and at 16 M. dis- tance the village of Salmonier is reached. This is a fishing and farming town near the outlet of the broad Salmonier River, famous for its great salmon. To the N. W., at the head of the bay, is some striking scenery, near Colinet Bay, where empties the Hodge-Water River, descending from the Quemo-Gospen Ponds, in the interior of Avalon. There are several small hamlets in this vicinity ; and Colinet is accessible by land ttom St. John's in 66 M. The W. shore of St. Mary's Bay is mountainous and rugged, and has no settlements of any consequence. 214 Route 60. FORTUNE BAY. Beyond the bold Cape St Mary the steamer mns to the K. W. across t\ie wide entrance to Placentia Bay (see page 212). At abont 20 M. froir> Cape St. Mary the sharply defined headland of Cape Chapeau Rouge becomes visible; and the harbor of Burin is entered at about 42 M. from Cape St. Mary. This harbor is the finest in Newfoundland, and is sheltered by islands whose cliff-bound shores are nearly 200 ft. high. On Dodding Head is a lighthouse 430 ft. above the sea, bearing a revolving light which is visible for 27 M. Still farther up, and almost entirely land-locked, is the Burin Inlet. The town of Burin has 1,850 inhabitants, and is an important trading-station, supplying a great part of Placentia Bay. The adjacent scenery is of the boldest and most rugged character, the lofty islands vying with the inland mountains. On leaving Burin the course is laid to the S. W., passing the lofty prom- ontories of Corbin Head, Miller Head, and Red Head. Beyond the tall sugar-loaf on Sculpin Point the deep harbors of Little and Great St. Law- rence are seen opening to the r. ; and the sea-resisting rock of Cape Chapeau Rouge is next passed. This great landmark resembles in shape the crown of a hat, and is t48 ft. high, with sheer precipices over 300 ft. high. From this point the course is nearly straight for 33 M., to St. Pierre, running well off, but always in sight of a bold aud elevated shore. 8t. Pierre, see page 185. On leaving St. Pierre the course is to the N., passing, in 5 M., the low shores of Green Island, and then running for a long distance between the Miquelon Islands and May and Dantzic Points (on the mainland), which are about 12 M. apart. When abodt half-way across Fortune Bay, Brunet Island (5 M. long) is passed, and on its E. point is seen a lighthouse 408 ft. above the sea, showing a flashing light for 25 M. at sea. 6 M. beyond this point is Sagona Island, with its village of fishermen ; and 6 M. farther N. the steamer enters Harbor Briton. Here is an Anglican village of about 850 inhabitants, with an extensive local trade along the shores of Fortune Bay. The harbor is very secure and spacious, and runs far into the land. This town was settled in 1616 by Welshmen, and was then named Canibriol. Fortune Bay Is included between Point May and Pass Island, and is 85 M. vide and 66 M. long. fortune is a town of over 800 inhabitants, situated near the entrance of the bay, and on the Laualine road. Its enerf^es are chiefly devoted to the fisheries and to trading with St Pierre. 8 M. E. N. £. are the highlands of Gape Grand Bank, from which the shore trends N. £. by the hamlets of Garnish and Frenchman's Cove to Point Enrag^e. The E. and N. shores are broken by deep estuaries, in which are small fishing-settlements ; and in the N. W. comer are the North and East Bays, &mouA for herring-fisheries, which attract large fleets of American vessels. On the W. shore in the prosperous village of BelleoreiU) engaged in the cod and herring fisheries, and distant 15 M. from Harbor Briton. Roads lead from this point to the villages of Barrow, Blue Pinion, Corbin, English Harbor West, Coombs' Cove, and St. Jaques. The other settlements on the W. shore are mere fishing-stations, closely hemmed in between the mountains and the sea, and ate visited by boats firom Harbor Bxitrai. BUBOEO. RoitU €0. 215 Hermltmse B»j li m eztenrir* bight of the Ma to the N. of Pus UUmd. Iti Krinuipal town is Htrmitage Cove, an Anglican settlement 9 H. from Harbor Briton. r. of the bay is Long Island, which is 26 M. around, and shelters the Bay of De* spalrf famous for its prolific salmon-flsheries. From the liead of this hay Indian trails Ivad inland to Long Pond, Round Pond, and a great cluster of unTisited lalies situated in a land of forests and mountains. From the farther end of tlwse inland waters diverge the great trails to the River of Exploits and Ilall's Bay. After running oat to the S. W. between Sagona Island and Connalgre Head, the course is laid along the comparatively straight coast called the Western Shore, extending from Fortune Bay to Cape Kay. Grossing the wide estuary of Hermitage Bay, the bold highlands of Cape La Hune are approached, 12 M. N. of the Penguin Islands. About 25 M. W. of Cape La Hune the steamer passes the Ramea IdandSj of which the isle called Columbe is remarkable for its height and boldness. There is a fishing- community located here ; and the August herrings are held as very choice. The old jnarlne records report of the Ramea Isles : " In which isles are so gnat abundance of the huge and ojightie sea-oxen with great teeth in the moneths of April, Mav, and June, that there haue been fifteene hundreth IdUed there by one small barke in the yeere 1591." In 1597 the English ship Hopewell entered the harbor of Ramea and tried to plunder the French vessels there of their stores and powder, but was forced by a shore-battery to leave incontinently. About 9 M. W. N. W. of Ramea Columbe, the steamer enters the har- bor of Burgeo, a port of entry and trading-station of 650 inhabitants, sit- uated on one of the Burgeo Isles, which here form several small, snug harbors. This town is the most important on the Western Shore, and is a favorite resort for vessels seeking supplies. 8 M. distant is Vjaper BurgeOj built on the grassy sand-banks of a small islet; and 7 M. N. is the salmon-fishery at Grandy's Brook, on the line of the N. Y., N. F. and London Telegraph. Beyond the Burgeo Isles the course Is laid along the Western Shore, and at about 25 M. the massive heights at the head of Grand Bruit Bay are seen. 5 M. farther on, after passing Ireland Island, the steamer turns into La Poile Bay, a narrow arm of the sea which cleaves the hills for 10 M. The vessel ascends 3 M. to La Poile (Little Bay), a small and decadent fishing-village on the W. shore. The distance from La Poile to Channel, the last port of call, is 30 M., and the coast is studded with small hamlets. Garia Bay is 5-6 M. W. of La Poile, and has two or three villages, situated amid picturesque scenery and surrounded by forests. Bose Blanche is midway between La Poile and Channel, and is a port of entry with nearly 600 inhabitants, situated on a small and snug harbor among the mountains. It has a con- siderable trade with the adjacent fishing-settlements. 8 M. beyond Rose Blanche are the Burnt Islands^ and 3 M. farther on are the Dead Idands, At 8-10 M. inland are seen the dark and desolate crests of the Loog- Range Mountains, sheltering the Codroy Valley. 21 & Jtouuet PORT AU BASQUE. The I>ead IslMids (French, Lea IsUa aux Morts) are bo named on aeeount of the many fttal wie^ which have occurred on their dark roclu. The name i>af siTen after the lose of an emigrant-ship, when the islands were bo fringed with human corpses that it took a gang of men five days to bury them. Qeonro Harvey formerly lived on one of the islands, and saved hundreds of lives by bolcHy putting out to the wrecked ships. About 1880 the Dispatch struck on one of the isles, fehe was fuU of immigrants, and her boats could not live in the heavj- gale which was rapidly breaking her up. But Ilarvey pushed out in hia row-boat, attended only by his daughter (17 years old) and a boy 12 years old. He landed every one of the passengers and crew (lb3 in number) safely, and fed them for three weeks, inso- much that his fiunily had nothing but fish to eat all winter after. In 1888 the Glasgow ship Ranlnn struck a rock off the isles, and went to pieces, the crew cling- ing to the stern-rail. In spite of the heavy sea, Harvey rescued them all (25 in niuuber), by making four trips in his punt. " The whole coast between La Poile and Cape Bay seems to have been at one time or other strewed with wrecks. Every house is surrounded with old rigging, f^pars, masts, sails, ships' bells, rudders, wheels, and other matters. The houses too contaia telescopes, compasses, and por- tions of ships' fhmiture." (Prof. Jukes.) Channel (or Port au Basque) is 3-4 M. W. of the Dead Isles, and 80 M. from La Poile. It is a port of entry and a transfer-station of the N. Y., N. F. and London Telegraph Company, and has nearly 600 inhabitants, with an Anglican church and several mercantile establishments. The fisheries are of niuch importance, and large quantities of halibut are caught in the vicinity. A few miles to the W. is the great Table Mt.y over Cape Ray, beyond which the French Shore turns to the N. A Bchooiier leaves Port au Basque every fortnight, on the arrival of the steamer from St. John's, and carries the mails N. to St. George's Bay, the Bay of Islands, and Bonne Bay (see Eoute 61). The steamer, on every alternate trip, runs S. W. from Channel to Syd- ney, Cape Breton. The course is across the open sea, and no land is seen, after the mountains about Cape Ray sink below the horizon, until the shores of Cape Breton are approached. Sydney, see page 160. 6L The French Shore of Newfoundland.— Cape Kay to Cape St John. It is not likely that any tourists, except, perhaps, a few adventurous yachtsmen, will visit this district. It is destitute of hotels and roads, and has only one short aud infrequent mail-packet route. The only settlements are a few widely scattered fishing-villages, iobabited by a rude and hardy class of mariners ; and no form of local government has ever been established on any part of the shore. But the £ditor is reluctant to pass over such a vast extent of the coast of the Maritime Provinces without some brief notice, especially since this district is in many of its features so unique. The Editor was unable, owing to the lateness of the season, to visit the French Shore in person, but has been aided in the preparation of the following note», both by gentlemen who have traversed the coast and the inland lakes, and by various statistics of the Provioce. It is therefore believed that the ensuing itinerary is correct in all its main features. The distances have been verified by comparison with the British Admiralty charts. The French Shore may be visited by the trading-schooners which run firom port to port throughout its whole extent during the summer season. The most interest- ing parts of it may also be seen by taking the mail-packet which leaves Port au Basque (Channel) fortnightly, and ruuB N. to Bonne Bay, touching all along the ooast. CAFE BAT. R(mU6L 217 loeonmtof name y^ Lnged witU •ge HarTtsy illy putting idles, fehe . \rbich was «nded only r one of the ireeks, inso- In 1888 the I crew clSng- n all (25 fa > «n La Poile ckB. Every lis, rudders, es, and pot- ties, and 80 ftheN. Y., nhabitants, aents. The halibut are TabU Mt.t the N. A rival of the e's Bay, the nnel to Syd- land is seen, n, until the ye Bay to M yachtsmen, jnly one short idely scattered nd no form of But the Editor time Provinces Its features po n, to visit the f the following and lakes, and it the ensuing sen verified by run firom port , most interest- leaves Port au all along thn The Frencli Sh<»re extends from Gape St. John (N. of Notra Dam* Bay) aionnd the N. and W. coasts of the island to Cape Ray, including the richest ral- leys and fidrest soil of Newfoundland. It is nearly exempt firom fogs, borders on the most prolific fishing-grounda, and is called the " Garden of Newfoundland." By the treaties of 1713, 1768, and 1788, the French received the right to catch and cure fish, and to erect huts and stages along this entire coast, — a concession of which they have availed themselves to the fullest extent. There are several British colonies along the shore, but they live without law or magistrates, since the home government believes that such appointments would be against the spirit of the treaties with France (which practically neutralized the coast). The only authority is that which is given by courtesy to the resident clergymen of the settlements. It is 9 M. from Channel to Cape Ray, where the French Shore begins. The dis* tances firom this point are given as between harbor and harbor, and do not represent the straight course from one outport to another at a great distance. Cape Kay to Codroy , 13 M. ; Cape Anguille, 18 (Crabb's Brook, 45 ; Middle Branch, 60 ; Robinson's Point, 55 ; Flat Bay, 57 ; Sandy Point, 65 ; Indian Head, 75) ; Cape St. Qeorge, 54 ; Port au Port (Long Point), 84 ; Bay of Islands, 108 ; Cape Orcgory, 125; Bonne Bay, 140; OreenCove. 147 ; Cow Harbor, 158 ; Portland Bill, 176 ; Bay of Ingornachoix (Point Rich), 206 ; Portau Choix, 208 ; Point Ferolle, 220 ; Flower Cove, 245; Savage Cove, 249 ; Sandy Bay, 250; Oreen Island. 255; Cape Norman, 285 ; Pistolet Island, 292 ; Noddy Harbor, 806 ; Quirpon (Cape Bauld), 810 ; Griguet Bay, 321; St. Lunaire, 326; Braha Bay, 330; St. Anthony, 336; Goose Harbor (Hare Bay), 340 ; Harbor de Yeau, 348 ; St. Julien, 353 ; Croque, 358 ; Conche, 378 ; Canada Bay, 387; Great Harbor Deep, 410; La Fleur de Lis, 432 ; La Sole, 455: Gape St. John, m ♦ Cape Ray is the S. W. point of Newfoundland, and is strikingly pic- turesque in its outlines. 3 M. from the shore rises a great table-moun- tain, with sides 1,700 ft. high and an extensive plateau on the summit. Nearer the sea is the Sugar Loaf, a symmetrical conical peak 800 ft. high, N. of which is the Tolt Peak, 1,280 ft. high. These heights may be seen for 50 M. at sea, and the flashing light on the cape is visible at night for 20 M. From this point St. Paul's Island bears S. W. 42 M., and Cape North is W. by S. 57 M. (see page 160). Soon after passing out to the W. of Cape Ray, Cape Anguille is seen on the N., — a bold promontory nearly 1,200 ft. high. Between these capes is the valley of the Great Codroy River, with a farming population of several hundred souls; and along its course is the mountain-wall called the Long Bange, stretching obliquely across the island to the shores of White Bay. St. George's Bay extend? for about 60 M. inland, and its shores are said to be very rich and fei'tile, abounding also In coal. The scenery about the hamlet of Crabb's Brook "forms a most lovely and most Eng- lish picture." There are several small hamlets around the bay, of which Sandy Point is the chief, having 400 inhabitants and 2 churches. The people are rude and uncultured, fond of roaming and adventure ; but the moral condition of these communities ranks high in excellence, and great deference is paid to the clergy. The Micmac Ind'ans are often seen in this vicinity, and are partially civilized, and devout members of the Catholic Church. The country to the E. is mountainous, merging into wide grassy plains, on which the deer pass the winter season, roaming about the icy levels of the great interior lakes. ^ 10 218 RmUeBL GRAND POND. Orfmd Pond Is nraally (and rarely) Tisited tnm St. George's Bay. After as* cending the broad soond at the head of the bay for about 10 M. , a blind forest-path is entered, and the Indian guides lead the way to the N. E. over a vast expanf^e of moKS (very uncomfortable travelling). The Hare-Head Hills are passed, and after about 16 M. of arduous inarching, the truTeller reaches the Grand Pond. "And a beautiful eight it was. A nurrow etrip of blue ivater, widening, as it proceeded, to about 2 M., lay bet^A-cen bold rocky precipices covered with wc^d, and rising almost directly from the water to a height of 6-600 ft., having bare tops a little farther back at a still gre.'xtt>r elevation." The Bay Indians keep canoes on the pond, and there are several wigwams on the shores. Game and fish are abundant In these woodK and waters, Fince it is but once in years that the all-slaying white man reaches the pond, and the prudeut Indians kill only enough for their Own actual needs. There is a loftv island 20 M. long, on each side of which are the narrow and ravine-like channels of the pond, with an enormous depth of water. The route to Hall's Bay (see page 211) leads up the river from the N. £. corner of the pond for about 85 M., pa£MLig through four lakes. From the uppermost pond the canoe ia carried for ^ M. and put into the stream which empties into Hall's Bay. 8 M. W. of the inlet ot this river into Grand Pond is the outlet of Junction Brook, a rapid stream which leads to the Humber River and Deer Pcad in 8 - 10 M. , and is passable by canoes, with frequent portages. Near the M. end of Grand Pond, about the year 1770, occurred a terrible battle between the Micmacs and the Red Indians, which resulted in the extermination of the latte ' nation. The Micmacs were a Catholic tribe from Nova Scotia, who had moved over to Newfoundland, and were displacing the aboriginal inhabitants, the Red Indians, or Boeqthics. In the great battle on Grand Pond the utmost deter- mination and spirit Were shown by the Boeothics, invaded here in their innermost retreats. But they had only bows and arrows, while the Micmacs were armed with guns, and at the close of the battle not a man, woman, or child of the Red Indiana of this section was left alive. This region is densely covered with forests of large trees (chiefly fir and spruce), alternating with ''the barrens," — vast tracts which are covered with thick moss. Gov. Sir John Harvey, after careful inspection, claims that the barrens are under- laid with luxuriant soil, while for the cultivation of grasses, oats, barley, and pota- toes there is '* no country out of England -or Egypt superior to it." The intense and protracted cold of the winter seasons will preclude agriculture on a large scale. These inland sohtudes are adorned, during the short hot summer, with many brilliant flowers. Among these are great numbers of wild roses, violets, iri-'-es, pitcher-plants, heather, maiden-hair, and vividly colored Uchens ; while (says Sir R. Bonnycastle) " in the tribe of lilies, Solomon in all his glory exceeded not the beauty of those produced in this unheeded wilderness." The only white man who ever yet crossed vhese lonely lands from shore to shore was a Scotchman named Cormack, who walked from Trinity Bay to St. George's Bay, in 1822. He was ac- companied by a Micmac Indian, and the trip took several weeks. The maps of Newfoundland cover this vast unexplored region with conjectural mountains and hypothetical lakes. The British Admiralty chart of Newfoundlund (Southern Por- tion) omits most of tht'se, but gives minute and valuable topographical outlines of the lakes and hills N. of the Bay of Despair, the Red-Indian Pond, and River of Ex- ploits, and the region of the Grand Pond and Deer Pond, with their approaches. Cape St. George thrusts a huge line of precipices into the sea, and 5 M. beyond is Red Island^ surrounded by dark red cliffs. 26 M. farther to the N. E. is the entrance to Port au Port, a great double harbor of noble capacity. It is separated from St. George's Bay by an isthmus but 1 M. wide, at the W. base of the great Table Mt. The * Bay of Islands affords some of the finest scenery in the Province, and is sheltered by several small but lofty islands. The soil along the shores is said to be deep and productive, and adapted to raising grain and produce. Limestone, gypsum, and fine marble are found here in large quantities. There are about 1,000 inhabitants about the bay, most of whom are engaged in the herring-fishery. HUMBER RIVER. Route 61. 219 , At the head of the bay is the mouth of the Hnmber BlTer, the largest river in Newfoundland. In the last 18 M. of its course it is known as the Number Sound, and is 1 -2 M. wide and 50-60 fathoms deep, with lofty and rugged hills on either Bj Je. Great quantities of timber are found on these shores, and the trout and sal- mon fisheries are of considerable value. The river flows into the head of the sound in a narrow and swift current, and is ascended by boats to the Deer Pond. Occa- sional cabins and clearings are seen along the 8hores, inhabited by bold and hardy pioneers. 3 M. above the head of the sound there is a rapid 1 M. long, up which boats are drawn by lines. Here " the scenery is highly striking and pictureiique, — lofty clifls of pure white limestone rising abruptly out of the woods to a height of 8 - 400 ft , and being themselves clothed with thick wood round their sides and over their summits." Above the rapids the river traverses a valley 2 M. wide, filled with birch-groves and hemmed in by high hills. The stream is broad and shallow for 6 M. above the rapids, where another series of rapids is met, above which are the broad waters of *Deer Pond, 2-3 M. wide and 15 M. long. Here is the undis- turbed home of deer and smaller game, loons, gulls, and kingfishers. A few Micmac Indians still visit these solitudes, and their wigwams are seen on the low savannas of the shore. (See also pages 211 and 218) " Beyond the forest-covered hills which surround it are lakes as beautiful, and larger than Lake George, the cold clear waters of which flow to the bay under the name of the river Humber. It has a valley like Wyoming, ?.nd more romantic scenery than the Susquehanna. The Bay of Islands is also a bay of streams and in- lets, an endless labyrinth of clifls and woods and waters, where the summer voyager would delight to wander, and which is worth a volume sparkling vdth pictures." Bonne Bay is 23 M. N. E. of the Bay of Islands, and is a favorite resort of American and Provincial fishermen. Great quantities of herring are caught in this vicinity. The mountains of the coast-range closely ap- proach the sea, forming a bold and striking prospect; and the rivers which empty into the bay may be followed to the vicinity of the Long Range. The coast to the N. N. W. for nearly 70 M. is straight, with the slight indentations of the Bay of St. Paul and Cow Bay. The Bay of Ingot nO' choix has comparatively low and level shores, with two excellent har- bors. On its N. point (Point Rich) is a lit'hthouse containing a white flashing-light which is visible for 18 M.; ai;d 2 M. E. is the tishing-station oi Port au Choix, whence considerable quantities of codfish and herring are exported. The Bay of St. John is dotted with islands, and receives the River of Castors, flowing from an imknown point in the interior, and abounding in salmon. " What a region for romantic excursions ! Yonder are wooded mountains with a sleepy atmosphere, and attractive vales, and a fine river, the River Castor, flowing from a country almost unexplored ; and here ara green isles spotting the sea, — the islands of St. John. Behind them is an expanse of water, alive with fish and fowl, the extremes of which are lost in the deep, untroubled wilderness. A month would not sufiice to find out and enjoy its manifold and picturesque beauties, through which wind the deserted trails of the Red Indians, now extinct or banished." The Bay of St. John is separated by a narrow isthmus from St. Mar- garet's Bay (on the N.), on which are the stations of Neto FeroUe and Old FeroUe. Beyond the Bays of St. Genevieve and St. Barbe, with their few score of inhabitants, is Flower Cove, containing a small hamlet and an Episcopal church. The great sealing-grounds of the N. shore are next traversed; and the adjacent coast loses its mountainous character, and sinks into wide plains covered with grass and wild grain. 220 JtouUei. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. 1 1 The Strait of Belle Isle. The Strait of Belle Isle is now entered, and on the N. is the lofty and barren shore of Labrador (or, if it be night, the fixed light on Point Amour). As Green Island is passed, the Red Cliffs, on the Labrador shore, are seen at about 10 M. distance. The low limestone cliffs of the New- foundland shore are now followed to the N. E., and at 30 M. beyond Green Island, Cape Norman is reached, with its revolving light upheld on the bleak dreariness of the spray-swept hill. This cape is the most northerly point of Newfoundland. The Sacred Islands are 12 M. S. E. by E. from Cape Norman, and soon after passing them the hamlet of Quirpon is approached. This place is situated on Quirpon Island, 4 degrees N. of St. John's, and is devot^ to the sealing business. It has an Episcopal church and cemetery. Multi- tudes of seals are caught off this point, in the great current which sets from the remote N. into the Strait of Belle Isle. Hundreds of icebergs may sometimes be seen hence, moving in stately procession up the strait. In front of Quirpon are the cold highlands of Jaques-Cartier Island. Cape Bauld is the N. point of the island of Quirpon, and the most northerly point of the Province. 14 M. N. of Cape Bauld, and midway to the Labrador shore, is Belle Isle, in the entrance of the Htrait. It is 9>^ M. long and 3 M. broad, and is utterly barren and unprofitable. On its S. point is a lonely lighthouse, 470 ft. above the sea, cmstaiu- ing a fixed white light which is Tisiblc for 28 M. During the dense and blinding 8now-»torma that often sweep over the strait, a cannon is fired at regular intervals ; and large deposits of provisions are kept hero for the UFe of shipwrecked mariners. Between Dec. 16 and April 1 tbere is no light exhibited, for these northern seus are then deserted, save by a few daring seal-hunters. There is but one point where the island can be approached, which is l^, M. from the lighthouse, and here the stores are landed. There is not a tree or even a bush ou the island, and coal is imported from Quebec to warm the hou^e of the keeper, — who, though visited but twice a year, ia happy and contented. The path from the landing is cut through the moss- covered rock, and leads up a long and steep ascent. In the year 1627 "a Canon of St. Paul in London, which was a great mathemati- cian, and a man indued with wealth," sailed for the New World with two ships, which were fitted out by King Henry VIII. After they had gone to the westward for many days, and had passed " great Hands of Ice," they reached " the mayne land, all wildernessc and uiountaines and woodes, and no naturnll ground but all niosse, and no habitation nor no people in these parts." They entered the Strait of Belle Isle, and then '^ there arose a great and a niaruailous great storme, and much foul weather," during which the ships vere separated. The captain of the Mary of Guil/orcf wrote home concerning his consort-ship : " I trust in Alniightie Jesu to heare good newes of her"; hut no tidings ever came, and she was probably lost in the BCitiit, with all on board. The islands of Belle Islo and Quirpon were colled the Isles of DeVnons *'n the remote past, and the ancient mnps represent them as covered with " devil'* 'am- pant, with wings, horns, and tails." They were suid to be fascinating but malicious, and Andr6 Thcvet exorcised them from a band of stiicken Indians by repeating a part of the Gospel of St. John. The mariners feared to land on these haunted Bhores, and '' when they pabsed this way, they beard in the air, on the tops and about the masts, a great chimor of men's voices, confused and inarticulate, cuch aa you may hear from the crowd at a fair or market-place ; whereupon they well knew that the Isle of Demons was not far off." The brave but superstitious Normans dared not land on the Labrador without the crucifix in hand, believing that those gloomy shores were guarded by great and terrible griffins. These qiiaint legends STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. RmUe 61. 221 le lofty and it on Point rador shore, »f the New- jyond Green held on the St northerly m, and soon 'his place is 3 devoted to ery. Multi- it -which sets } of icebergs ap the strait, sland. Cape ost northerly le Isle, in the rly barren and le sea, eustaiu- e and blinding ;ular inUrvals ; eked mariners, rthern seus are »oint where the here the stores oal is imported ed but twice a ough the moss- eat mathemnti- ivith two sliips, ;o the westward 3d " the mayne ground but all ■ed the Strait of )rme, and much of the Mary of tie Jesu to heare ibly lost in the leVnons 'n the ,h " devil^ 'am- g but malicious, by repeating a , these haunted n the tops and iculate,euch as they well knew titious Normans ■Ting that those quaint legends h nndonbtedly had a good fbundation. In July, 1873, the coasts of the Stxait of Belle Isle were ravaged by bands of immense wolves, who devoured several human beings and besieged the settlements for weeks. An ancient MS. of 1586 relates a curious legend of Belle Isle. Among the com- pany on the fleet which was conducted through the Str&ita to Quebec in 1542, were the Lady Marguerite, niece of the \ '.ceroy of New Frvnce, auu her lover. Their conduct was such as to have scandalized the fleet, and when they reached the Isle of Demons, Roberval, enraged at her shamelesi^uess, put her on shore, with her old nurse. The lover leaped from the ship and joined the women, and the fleet sailed away. Then the demons and the hosts of hell began their assaults on the forsaken trio, tearing about their hut at night, menacing them on the shore, and assaulting them in the forest. But the penitent sinners were guarded by invisible bands of saints, and kept from peril. After many months, wearied by these fiendish assaults, the lover died, and was soon followed by the nurse and the child. Long thereafter lived Marguerite alone, until finally a fishing-vessel ran in warily toward the smoke of her fire, and rescued her, after two years of Ufe among demons. From Cape Bauld the coast runs S. by the French sealing-stations of Griguet, St. Lunaire, Braha, and St. Anthony, to the deep indentation of Hare Bay, which is 18 M. long and 6 M. wide. A short distance to the S. is the fine harbor of Croque, a favorite resort for the French fleets and a coaling-station for the steamers. The back country is dismal to the last degree. To the S. E. are the large islands of Groais (7 X 3^ M. in aTea)and Belle Isle (9 Y 6 M.). Running now to the S. \V. by Cape Rouge and Botitot, Couche Harbor is seen on the starboiird bow, and Canada Bay in opened on the W. Thi.s great bay is 12 M. long, and is entered through an intricate passage called the Narrows, beyond which it widens into a safe and capacious biisiu. The shores are solitary and de- serted, and far inland are seen the great hill-ranges called The Clouds. 7 M. to the S. W. is the entrance to Uoo.iing Harbor, and 6 M. farther S. ia Fourchette, 12 M. beyond which is Grmt Harbor Deep, a long and narrow estuary with such a depth of water ^thiit vessels cannot anchor in it. This is at the W. entrance of White Bay, and ia 1(5 M. from l:*artridge Point, the E. entrance. White Bay is a fine sheet of water 45 M. long and 10-15 M. wide. It is very deep, and has uo islands except such as are cloj^e in shore. The fisheries are car- ried on here to a considerable extent, and at Cat Cove, Jackson's Arm, Chouse Brook, Wiseman's Cove, Seal Cove, and Lobster Harbor are small settlements of resident fishermen. Chouse Brook is situated amid noble scenery near the head of the bay, 60 M. by boat from La Scie. On the highlands to the \V and 8. of U'hite Bay are the haunts of the deer, which are usually entered ^om Hall's Bay or Green Bay. 3 M. S. E. of Partridge Point is La Fleur de Lis harbor, so named from the simulation of the royal flower by a group Of three hills near its head. Running thence to the E., the entrances of Little Bay and Ming's Bight open on the starboard side, and on the port bow are tlie St. Barbe, or Horse Islands. About 20 M. from La Fleur de Lis is La Scie, the last settle ment on the French Shore, with its three resident families. A road leads S, 7 Al. from this point to Shoe Cove, on the Bay of Notre Dame (see page 211); and 5 M. E. of La Scie is *Cape St. John, the boundary of the French Shore on the Atlantic. " The Cape is in fhll view, a promontory of shaggy precipices, suggestive of all the fiends of Pandemonium, rather than the lovely Apostle whose name has been gib~ beted on the black and dismal crags As we bear down toward the Cape, we pass Gull Isle, a mere pile of naked rocks delicately wreathed with lace-llke mists. Imagine the last hundred feet of Conway Peak, the very finest of the New-Hampshire mountain-tops, pricking above the waves, and you will see this little outpost and Ir >^ HiBi CAPE ST. JOHN. T .,,4«oa AND BaCCAIAOS, »'"^V'__ o„ the west INUiM. )M gnndMt : black room lea sweeps. t 1^D1E3. lor, w ^«^1 '^ ther there bee KicBofMaiuca, ahulde greatly .ydeislandesof The Vortugale* ^ndethe ?'«"«: B of tbat lande- made a vyage tie sougbt. . . • • idise. For the corporature, ai- ,dye8, an^ ^^'^ heareinwardem levr bodyes vath T^Teyeatefy^sbe tbey^«^^«/°"? ae great plentie . , and bea»te9 It and niany otber sat.theBu^^J ;, and bo'".,r.°?we 'tbyther with the KX:ude thereof ro^gbtanyknovrt- lenry the Seuenth, thekyngeB.^^om orth Seas, and that n by the vyage the it rnaner of landea '5 rSt*;d his coui^ .Sfs : affinnynge K that he durst ^ier without nyght, ^g the longest day Se-rtheUTt ^theBa^calaos-, aud SelandofBaccalaos ^Sarrortry^at ^\tybav«Be«1lJ 3 of them go naked i5 rfUtbef^^il treat woodes, in wmc LABRADOR Is the great peninsular portion of North America which lies to the N. and N. W. of Newfoundland, and is limited by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the ocean, and Hudson's Bay. Jt extends from about 50*^ N. latitude to 60", and the climate is extremely rigorous, the mean temperature at Naia being 32" 6^ The land is covered with low mountains and barren plateaus, on which are vast plains of moss interspersed with rocks and bowlders. TheriB are no forests, and the inland region is dotted with lakes and swamps. There are reindeer, bears, foxes, wolves, and smaller game; but their number is small and decreasing. The rivers and lakes swarm with fish, and the whole coast is famous for its valuable fisheries of cod and salmon. At least 1,000 decked vessels are engaged in the Labra- dor fisheries, and other fleets are devoted to the pursuit of seals. The commercial establishments here are connected with the great firms of England and the Channel Islands. The Esquimaux population is steadily dwindling away, and probably consists of 4,000 souls. "The coast of Labi-ador is the edge of a vast solitude of rocky hills, split and blasted by the frosts, and beaten by the waves of the Atlantic, for unknown ages. Every form into which rocks can be washed and broken is visible along its almost interminable shores. A grand headland, yellow, brown, and black, in its horrid nakedness, is ever in sight, one to the north of you, one to the south. Here and there upon them are stripes and patches of pale green, — mosses, lean grasses, and dwarf shrubbery. Occasionally, miles of precipice front the pea, in rvhich the fancy may roughly shape all the structures of human art, — castles, palaces, and temples. Im- agine an entire side of Broadway piled up solidly, one, two, three hundred feet in height, often more, and exposed to the charge of the great Atlantic rollers, rush- ing into the churches, halls, and spacious buildings, thundering through the door- ways, dashing in at the windows, sweeping up the lofty fronts, twisting the very cornices with silvery spray, falling back in bright green scrolls and cascades of sil- very foam ; and yet, all this imagined, can never reach the sentiment of these precipices. More frequent than headlands and perpendicular sea-fronts are the sea-slope!5, often bald, tame, and wearisome to the eye, now and then the perfection of all that is picturesque and rough, — a precipice gone to pieces, its softer por- tions dissolved down to its roots, its flinty bones left standinf^, a savage scene that scares away all thoughts of order and desiprn in nature This is the rosy time of Labrador (July). The blue interior hills, and the stony vales that wind up among them ftxim the sea, have a summer-like and pleasant air. I And myself peopling these regions, and dotting their hills, valleys, and wild shores with human habitations. A second thought — and a mournful one it is — tells me that no men toil in the fields away there ; no women keep the house ofT there ; there no children play by the brooks or shout around the country school-house ; no bees come home to the h4ve ; no smoke curls from the farm-house chimney ; no orchard blooms ; no bleating sheep fleck the mountain-sides with whiteness, and no heifer lows Id the '.wilight. There is nobody there ; there never was but a miserable and acat- 224 HauU 62. BATTLE HARBOR. tered few, and there nerer will be. It ii a great and terrible wildemcM of a thoti> Kand miles, and lonesome to the very wild animabi and birds. Left to the etill vif- iution of the Ught from the sun, moon, and stars, and the auroral fires, it is only fit to look apon and then be given ovt-r to its primeval solitariness. But for the living things of its waterx, — the cod, the salmon, and the nail, — which bring thou> sands of adventurous fishermen and trddera to its bleak shores, Labrador would be as desola 'e as Greenland. *' For a few days the woolly flocks of New England would thrive in Labrador. During these few days there aru thousands of her lair daughters who would love to tend them. I prophecy the time is coming when the invalid and tourist from the States will be often found spending the brief but lovely summer here, notwithstand* ing its ruggedness and desolation." (B,£V. L. L. Noble.) " Wild are the waves which lash the reefs along St. George's bank ; Cold on the coast of Labrador the fog lies white and dauk ; Through storm, and wave, and blinding miist, stout are the hearts wlUch mto The fishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. " The cold north light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms, Bent grimly o'er their straining lines, or wrestling with the storms ; Free as the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roam. They laugh to scorn the slaver's threat against their rocky home.'' John G. WHunsB. 62. The Atlantic Coast of Labrador, to the Moravian Mis- sions and Greenland. The mail-steamer Hercules leaves Battle Harbor fortnightly during the sum- mer. Battle Harbor is a sheltered roadstead between the Battle Islands and Great Caribou Island, i M. long and quite narrow. It is a great resort for fishermen, whose vessels crowd the harbor and are moored to the bold rocky shores. Small houses and stages occupy every point along the Bides of the roadstead, and the place is very lively during the fishing sea- son. On the W. is Great Caribou Island, which is 9 M. around, and the Bteep-shored S. E. Battle Island is the easternmost land of the Labrador coast. The water is of great depth in this vicinity, and is noted for its wonderful ground-swell, which sometimes sweeps into St. Lewis Sound in lines of immense waves during the calmest days of autumn, dashing high over the islets and ledges. An Episcopal church and cemetery were con- secrated here by Bishop Field in 1850, and the nephew of Wordsworth (the poet) was for some years its rector. The first Esquimaux convert was baptized in 1857. Fox Harbor is 3-4 hours' sail from Battle Island, across St. Lewis Sound, and is an Esquimaux village v/ith igloes, kayaks, and other -ious things pertaining to this unique people There is a wharf, projecti into the narrow harbor (which resembles a mountain-lake) ; and the houses are clustered about a humble little Episcopal church. '• narlbou Island fronts to the N. on the bay 5 -6 M ,1 should think, and is a rugged mountain-pile of dark gray rook, rounded in its upper matwes, and slashed along its shores with abrupt ohasinp. It drops short oif, at its ewitern extrennty, Into a narrow gnlf of deep water. This is Battle Harbor. The billowy pile of igneous rook, perhnps 250 ft high, V'^ig between this quiet water and the broad Atlantic, ig Battle Island, and the site of the town At this moment (July) the rocky i^, SANDWICH BAY. JtouU 6t, 225 t% «hott- U is only ut for the ringtuou. • would M lAbrador. did love to t from the twithBttnd- wUcbiMn i? iring the sum- le Islands and rreat resort for id to tbe bold olnt along tbe he fisWng sea- round, and the f the Labrador i, noted for its Lewis Sound m n, dashing high etery were con- of Wordsworth dmaux convert ^^oss St. Lewis ,„d other --^ous proiect. . into ,d the houses are r!«Mrn exttenaty. bombarded by the oeeui, and flayed by the sword of the blast for mooths In tha year, is a little paradise of beauty. There are fields of mossy carpet that sinks b^ neath the foot, with ImhIs of such delicate flowera as one seldom pees I haw neyer seen such fairy lovelinesa as I find here upon this bleak islet, where nature sceuiS to have been playiug at Switzerland. On>eD and yellow mu88e8, ankle-deep and spotted with blood-red stains, carpet the crags and little vales and cradle-lilce hollows. Wonderful to behold ! flowers pink and white, yellow, red, and blue, are countless as dew-drops, and breathe out upon tbe pure air their odor, so spirit-like. .... Little gorges and chasms, overhung with miniature precipices, wind gracefully from the summits down to meet the waves, and are filled, where the sun can warm them, with all bloom and sweetness, a kind of wild greenhouse." The course is laid from Battle Harbor N. across St. Lewis Sound, which is 4 M. wide and 10 M. deep (to Fly Island, beyond which is the St. Lewis Rivei-, which contains myriads of salmon). Passing the dark and rugged hills (500 ft. higli) of Cape St. Lewis, the steamer soon reaches the small but secure haven of Spear Harbor , where a short stop is made. The next port is at St. Francis Harbor, which is on Granby Island, in the estuary of the deep and navigable Alexis River, An Episcopal church is located here. In this vicinity are several precipitous insulated rocks, rising from the deep sea. The harbor is ^ M. W. of Cape St. Francis, and is deep and well protected, being also a favorite resort for the fishing fleets. Cape St. Michael \a next seen on the W,, 11 M. above Cape St. Francis, with its mountainous promontory sheltering an island-studded bay. Be- yond the dark and rugged Square Island is the mail-port of Dead Island. Crossing now the mouth of St. Michael's Bay, and passing Cape Bluff (which may be seen for 60 M. at sea), the steamer next stops between Venison Island and the gloomy cliffs beyond. Running next to the N., on the outside of a gi-eat archipelago, the highlands of Partridge Bay are slowly passed. The Seal Islands are 24 M. N. E. of Cape St. Michael, and 18 M. beyond is Spotted Island, distinguished by several white spots on its lofty dark cliflfs. To the E. is the great Island of Ponds, near which is Batteau Har- bor, a mail-port at which a call is made. The next station is at Indian Tickle, which is a narrow roadstead between Indian Island and the high- lands of Mulgrave Land. Stopping next at S. E. Cove, the course is laid from thence to Indian Harbor, on the W. side of Huntington Island. Thi« island is 7 M. long, and shelters the entrance to Sandwich Bay (the Esqui- maux Net^uctoke), which is 6-9 M. wide and 64 M. deep, with 13-40 fathoms of water. There are many picturesque islands in this bay, and on the N. shore are the Mealy Mts., reaching an altitude of 1,482 ft. On the W. side are Eagle and West Rivers, filled with salmon ; and East River runs into the bottom of the bay, coming from a large lake where immense numbers of salmon, trout, and pike may be found. 4 M. from the mouth of East River is the small settlement of Paradise. At the head of this great bay are The Narrows, with Monnt Nat and its bold foothills on the S. " On either side hills towered to the height of a thousand feet, wooded with spruce froi ' ase to summit, and these twin escarpments abutted ranges 10* O 226 Route 6t. MORAVIAN MISSIONS. of bold blaA whose abadowi leemed almost to meet midway In the aarrow ehanne* that separated them. Through this grand gloomy portal there was an unbroken Tista for miles, until the channel made an abrupt turn that hid the water firoia Tiew ; but the great gorge continued on beyond till it was *(<»cof Klgolette, occupying the site of an older French trading-station. At tim iiead of the Narrows is Melville Lake, a great Inland seft, all along whose S. shore are the weird and won< derful volcanic peaks of the lofty Mealy Mountains. 120 M. S. W. of Rigolette, by this route, is the H. B. Company's post of Norwest, situated a little way up the N. W. Kiver, near great spruce forests. This in the cuief trading-post of the Moun- taineers, a tribe of the great Cree nation of the West, and a tall, graceful, and spir- ited people. In 1840 they first opeued communication with the whites. It was this tribe, which, Issuing from the interior highlands in resistless forays, nearly exter- minated the Esquimaux of the coast. 300 M. from Fort Norwest Is Fort Nascopie, situated on the Heights of Land, far in the dark and solitary in lerior. In that vicin- ity are the Grand FallS; which the voija^eurs claim are 1,000 ft. high, but Factor McLean says are 400 ft. high, — and below them the broad river flashes down through a canon 900 ft. deep, for over 30 M. 300 M. from Fort Nascopie are the shores of Ungava Bay. (The R<3quimaux-Bay district is well de8cril>ed iu an article by Cliarlea Hallock, Harper's Magazine, Vol. XXII.) The Moravians state that the Esquimaux are a proud and enterprising people, low In stature, with c^rse features, small hands and feet, and black wi^y hair. The men are expert in fishing, catching seals, and managing the light and graceful boat called the kayak, which outrides the rudest surges of the sea ; while the women are skilful in making garments from skins. Agriculture is impossible, because the country is covered with snow and ice for a great part of the year. They call them- selves Innuits (" men "), the term Esquimaux (meaning '' eaters of raw flesh ") being appliem tbe remoter t points to celebrate the mysteries of the Passion Week In the churches, ^hey were heathens and demon-worshippers until 1770, when the Mora- vian Brethren Of;cupied the coast under permission of the British Crown. They were formerly much more numerous, but have been reduced by long wars with tho Mountaineers of the interior and by the ravages of the small-pox. The practicn of Etlygamy has ceased among the tribes, and their marriages are celebrated by the oravian ritual. The missionaries do considerable trading with the Indians, and keep magazines of provisions at their villages, from which the natives are freely fed during seasons of famine. At each station are a church, a store, a mission-house, and shops and warm huts for the converted and civilized Esquimaux, who are fiist learning the mechanic arts. The Moravian mission-ship makes a yearly visit to the Labrador station, replenishing the supplies and carrying away cargoes of furs. Mopedale is 300 M. N. W. of the Strait of Belle Isle, and is one of the chief Moravian missions on the Labrador coast. It was founded In 1782 by the en- voys of the church, and has grown to be a centre of civilizing influences on this dreary coast. Its last statistics claim for it 85 houses, with 46 families and 248 per- sons ; 49 boats and 49 kayaks ; and a church containing 74 communicants and 85 baptized children. The mean annual temperature here Is 27° 82'. The church is a neat plain building, where the men and women occupy opposite sides, and Qerman hymns are sung to the accompaniment of the violin. Main is about 80 M. N. W. of Hopedale, and has about 300 inhabitants, of whom 85 are communicants and 94 are baptized children. It was founded by three Mora- vians iu 1771, and occupies a beautiful position, facing the ocean tVom the bottom of a narrow haven. It is in 57° N. latitude (same latitude as the Hebrides), and the thermometer sometimes marks 75° in summer, while spirits freeze in the intense cold Of winter. Okkak is about 120 M. N. W. of Nain, towards Hudson Strait, and is a very successful mission which dates from 1776. The station of Htbron is still farther up the coast, and has about 300 inhabitants. Far away to the N. E., across the broad openings of Davis Strait, is Cape Oeiolatioxii in Greenland, ^ * the settlements of Julianshaab. CHATEAU BAf. RauU 63. 227 ow channe' B unbroXea ie shadow. tht'Narrows Ird and ^oj*" jUgoletto.by le v»ay «P *'^** of the Moun- J It was tnis , 'nearly exte.r- in thatticiQ- igh.butVactor Wa through e the shores of rticle by Charles wiry hair. Jhe nd^lracefulboat ■rthVwomen are ihle because the ^^i^^'eycaUty M of ravT flesa ; ^. of Uie Atlantic ;^hom have been »ter and assemble iier, "" Y^ in the rShJu^^eMor,^ ^'^°''«.. Jiuh the ^'^^The^rStic. of ;celbratedbythe ,s:rSy^^d .rV^^onfof the 5 influences on this r'^jSe^Jhu^'hisa ^8idis%ndGennan tnded by three w san fro«?,*S' and the &&'aSi"urtther of Davb Strait, U 3f Jiilians/iaoft. 63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Ida At Battle Harbor the Northern Coastal steajner connects with the Labrador mail-boat, which proceeds S. W. across the mouth of St. Charles Channel, and touches at Cape Charles, or St. Charles Harbor^ entering be- tween Fishflake and Blackbill Islands. This harbor is deep and secure (though small), and is a favorite resort for the fishermen. As the steamer passes the Cape, the round hill of St. Charles may be seen about 1 M. inland, and is noticeable as the 1 tiest highland in this district. Niger Sound and the Camp Islands landing is made at Chimney 'j Torrent Point, beyond which turesque headland, well isohi; sides. It is 200 fl. high, and is 300 ft. high) are next passed, and a ' ' M. S. W. of the Camp Islands is passes Table Head, a very pic- ith a level top and precipitous lilefly composed of symmetrical columns of basalt. To the S. are the barren rocks of tlie Peterel Isles and St. Peter's Isles, giving shelter to St. Peter's Bay. In the S. E. may be seen the dim lines of the distant coast of Belle Isle. On the N. is the bold promontory of Sandwich Head. The deep and narrow Chateau Bay now opens to the N. W., guarded by the cliffs of York Point (1.) and Chateau Point (on Castle Island, to the r.), and the steamer ascends its tranquil sheet. Within is the noble fiord of Temple Bay, 5 M. long, and lined by lofty highlands, approached through the Temple Pass. On the r. is the ridge of the High Beacon (959 ft.). Chateau is a small permanent village, with a church and a large area offish-stages. In the autumn and winter its inhabitants retire into the back country, for the sake of the fuel which is afforded by the distant forests. The port and harbor are named for the remarkable rocks at the entrance. There are fine trouting-streams up Temple Bay; and vast numbers of curlews visit the islands in August. " This castle is a most remarkable pile of basaltic rock, rising in vertical colnmna from an insulated bed of granite. Its height from the level of the ocean is upward of '200 ft. It is compocsed of regular five-sided prisms, and on all sides the ground is strewn with single blocks and clusters that have become detached and fallen from their places [It] seemed like some grim fortress of the feudal ages, from whose embrasures big-mouthed cannon were ready to belch forth flame and smoke. On the very verge of the parapet a cross stood out in bold relief in the gleaming moonlight, like a sentinel upon his watch-tower." (Hallock, describing Castle Island.) Chateau was formerly considered the key of the northern fisheries, and its pos- session was hotly contested by the Euglitih and Fntnch. At the time of the de- population of Acadia a number of its people fled hither and established a strong fortress. This work still remains, and consists of a bastioned star-fort in masonry, with gun-platforms, magazines, and block-houses, surrounded by a deep fosse, be- yond which were earthworks and lines of stockades. It was abandoned in 1753, and is now overgrown with thickets. In 1768 a British garrison was located at Chateau, in order to protect the fisheries, but the place was captured in 1778 by the American privateer Minen-n^ and 3 vessels and £ 70,000 worth of property were carried away as prizes. In 1<96 the post was again attacked by a French fleet. A long bombardment ensued between the frigates and the shore-batteries, and it was not until their ammunition vras exhausted that the British troops retreated into the back country, after having burnt the village. In 1536 the French exploring fleet under the command of Jaques Cartier assembled here. ^, ^■Vs^< IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 I 1.25 12.8 1^ 12.2 •» .■>. Mil EM 2.0 I U ill 1.6 <^ Yi /. ^ ^.'*- Photographic Sciences Corporation ^' 33 WIST MAIN STRUT WHSTH.N.Y. MSSO (716) 872-4503 I^> 228 RouUeS. STRAIT OF BELL2 ISLE. After emerging from Chateau Bay, the course is laid around York Point, and the Strait of Belle Isle is entered (with Belle Isle itself 18 M. £.). The Labrador coast is now followed for about 26 M., with the stern front of its frowning cliffs slightly indented by the insecure havens of Wreck, Barge, and Greenish Bays. Saddle Island is now seen, w'th its two rounded hills, and the steamer glides into Red Bay, an excellent refuge in whose inner harbor vessels sometimes winter. Large forests are seen at the head of the water, and scattering lines of huts and stages show evidences of the occupation of the hardy northern fishermen. Starting once more on the voyage to the S. W., at 7 M. from Red Bay are seen the Little St. Modesto Islands, sheltering Black Bay, beyond which Gape Diable is passed, and Diable Bay (4 M. W. S. W. of Black Bay). 8 M. farther to the W. the steamer enters Loup Bay, rounding high red cliffs, and touches at the fishing-establishment and hamlet of Lance-au-Loup (which views the Newfoundland coast from Point FeroUe to Gape Nor- man). Field-ice is sometimes seen off this shore in the month of June. Capt. Bayfield saw 200 icebergs in the strait in August. The course is now laid to the S. W. for 3-4 M., to round Point Amours which is at the narrowest part of the strait, and has a fixed light, 156 ft. high, and visible for 18 M. From the Red Gliffs, on the £. of Loup Bay, it is but 11 M. S. S. £. to the coast of Newfoundland. " The Battery, as sailors call it, is a wall of red sandstone, 2>8 M. in extent, witli horiiontal lines extending from one extreme to the other, and perpendicular fissures resembling embrasures and gateways. Swelling out witb grand proportions toward the sea, it has a most military and picturesque appearance. At one point of this huge citadel of solitude there is the resemblance of a giant portal, with stupendous piers 200 ft. or more in elevation. They are much broken by the yearly assaults of the frost, and the eye darts up the ruddy ruina in surprise. If there was anything to defend, here is a Gibraltar at hand, with comparatively small labor, whose guns could nearly cross the strait. Beneath its precipitous cliflii the debris elopes like a glkcts to the beach, with both smooth and broken surfaces, and all very hand- somely decorated with rank herbage The red sandstone shore is exceedingly picturesque. It has a right royal presence along the deep. Lofty semicircular promohtories descend in regular terraces nearly down, then sweep out gracefully with an ample lap to the margin. No art could produce better effect. The long terraced galleric > are touched with a tender green, and the well-hollowed vales, now and then occurring, and ascending to the distant horizon between ranks of rounded hilU, look green and pasture-like Among the very pretty and refireshing fea- turiss of the coast are its brooks, seen occasionally falling over the rocks in white cascades. Harbors are passed now and then, with small fishing-fleets and dwell- ings." (NOBLI.) The steamer enters Forteau Bay, and runs across to the W. shore, where are the white houses of a prosperous fishing-establishment, with an Epis- copal church and rectory. About the village are seen large Esquimaux dogs, homely, powerful, and intelligent. This bay is the best in the strait, and is much frequented by the French fishermen, for whose convenience one of the Jersey companies has established a station here. On the same lide of the harbor a fine cascade (100 ft. high) is seen pouring over the gliffs, and the fresh-water stream which empties at the head of the bay oontaini large numbers of sahnon. BLANC SA6L0N. RouU 64. 229 ad York Itself 18 with the re havens jeen, w th excellent forests »re aiges show , Starting re seen the rhich Cape iay). 8M. 1 red cliffs, ) Cape Nor- nth of June. Ant AmoBTf light, 155 ft. >f Loup Bay, in extent, ^^ idicularflwuret portions toward ^e point of this Vith Btupendou* ^rly assaults oi re was anything ibor, whose gun* Ubrls slopes UM daU^eryhwd- re is exceedingly ',fty semicircu ar , Jut gracefully BJfect. The long Uowed vales, now ranks of rounded Id refreshing fc«; he rocks la white .fleet* and dwell- 7 M. beyond Fortean, Wood Island is passed, and the harbor of Alone Babkn is entered. To the W. are Bradore Bay and Bonne Esperance Bay, with their trading-stations; and a few miles to the N. W. are the Bradcne Hills, several rounded summits, of which the chief is 1,264 ft. high. Blano Sablon is on the border-line between the sections of Labrador which belong, the one to the Province of Quebec, the other to Newfound- land. It is named from the white sauds which are brought down the river at the head of the bay. Several of the great fishmg-coropanies of the Isle of Jersey have stations here, and the harbor is much visited in summer. Blanc Sablon is at the W. entrance to the Strait of Belle Isle, and it is but 21 M. from the Isle-it-Bois (at the mouth of the bay) to the Newfoundland shore. The village is surrounded by a line of remarkable terraced hills. On Greenly Island, just outside of the harbor, 82 sail of fishing-vessels were lost on the night of July 2, 1856. Following the trend of the N. coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Blanc Sablon is distant from Esquimaux Bay 20 M., from Quebec nearly 800 M., and (in a straight line) 218 M. from Anticosti (see Route 65). From Blanc Sablon the steamer retraces her course through the Strait of Belle Isle to Battle Harbor. 64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St lawrenee.— The Mingan Islands. The ports along this coast may be reached by the American fishing-echoonen, fh)m Gloucester, although there can be no certainty when or where they will touch. Boats may be hired at Blanc Sablon to convey passengers to the W. Quebec to the Moiaic River. The steamer Margaretta Stevenson leaves Quebec for the Moisic River every week, and may be hired to cail at intermediate ports. The passage occupies 80-40 hourn, and the cabin-fare is 920 (including meals). The round trip to Moisic and back takes nearly a week. The N. shore of the Gulf of St. Lawrence is a region which is unique in Its dreart- ness and desolation. The scenery is wild and gloomy, and the shore is faced with barren and storm-beaten hills. The climate is rigorous in the extreme. This dis* trict is divided into three parts, — the King's Posts, with 270 M. of coast, firom Port Neuf to Cape Cormoront ; the Seigniory of Mingan, from Cape Cormorant to the River Agwanus (186 M.) ; and the Labrador, extending fh>m the Agwanus to Blanc Sablon (156 M.). Along this 661 M. of coast there are (census of 1861) but 6,418 in- habitants, of whom 2,6£2 are French Canadians and 888 are Indians. 1,764 are fish- ermen, and 1,088 hunters. In the 660 M. there are but 880 houses, 67K arpents of cultivated land, and 12 horses. There are 8,841 Catholics, 670 Protestants, and 2 Jews. The wide Bradore Bay is near Blanc Sablon, to the W., and has been called '* the most picturesque spot on the Labrador." In the back conn- try are seen the sharp peaks of the Bradore Hills, rising from the wilder- ness (1,264 ft. high). The bay was formerly celebrated for its numerous humpbacked whales. The village is on Point Jones, on the E. side of the bay. 230 HouU 64. ESQUIMAUX BAT. Bradore Bay Is of neat extent, and is stndded with oltutert of idets, which make broad dlTisions of we roadst^wl. It was known in ancient times as La Bate ties hettes, and was granted b; France to the Sieur Le Qardeur de Courtemanehe (who, according to tradition, married a Princess of France, the daughter of Henri lY .)• That nobleman sent out agents and officers, named the new port Philypeaux^ and built at its entrance a bulwark called Fort Pontchartrain. From him it de- sc(?nded to Sieur Foucher, who added the title *' de Labrador " to his name ; and there Btill exists a semi-noble family in France, bearing the name of Foucher de Labrador. On this bay was the town of Brest) which, it is claimed, was founded by men of Brittany, in the year 1508. If this statement is correct, Brest was the fint Euro- pe, in settlement in America, antedating by over thirty years the foundation of St. Augustine, in Florida. In 1585 Jaques Cartier met French vessels searching for this port. About the year 1600 Brest was at the height of its prosperity, and had 1,000 permanent inhabitants, 200 houees, a goyernor and an almoner, and strong fortifica- tions. After the subjugation of the Esquimaux by the Montaignids, it was no longer dangerous to establish small fishing-stations along the coast, and Brest began to decline rapidly. Ruins of its ancient works may still be found here. The Bay of Bonne-Esperance is one of the most capacious on this coast, and is sheltered from the sea by a double line of islets. The port is called Bonny ty the American fishermen, who resort here in great numbers duriiig the herring-season. The islands before the harbor were passed by Jaques Cartier, who said that they were " so numerous that it is not pos- sible to count them." They were formerly (and are sometimes now) called Les Isles de la Demoiselle ; and Th^vet locates here the tragedy of Bober- val's niece Marguerite (see page 221). Esquimaux Bay is N. of Bonne-Esperance, and is 8 M. in circumference. 2 M. above Esquimaux Island is a small trading-post, above which is the mouth of the river, abounding in salmon. There is a great archipelago between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. On one of these islands an ancient fort was discovered in the year 1840. It was built of stone and turf, aTtemanehe ter of Henri Philypea^t aa him It d»- le ; and there df. Labrador. ided by men he first Buro- daUon of St. rchiug for this md had 1,000 rong fortittca- wa« no longer ;rest began to )n this coast, )ort is called eat numbers re passed by it is not pos- es now) called jdy of Rober- ircumference. 5 which is the kt archipelago • these islands It of stone and \ supposed that the Esquimaux teir own fort. toy, beyond Lob- tanoque, beyond A line of high ranite rock 2x3 cable for its gtwd: CapeWkittU ; im^ larborarepaBsed. ;he outermost are a hills. land, on lt« crown I ire and brown I U antlers freely tosa, 5 Mlckmack ;he roosa. the west-wind >wn the bay, Blve way ! . •men clinging Iteaweetl,- lall Rulde us, „ n shall speed I qf the Fiahermen> Wnm the quantity of wreck found amiDng these islands, no donbt many melMi^ eholy shipwrecks hare taken place, which haTe nerer been heard of; eren if tlM unfortunate crews landed on the barren rocks, they would perish of cold and hunger* The " eggers " carry on their illegal business along theso shores, where milltons of sea-birds have their breeding-places. They land on the islands and break all the eggs, and when the birds lay fresh ones theygather'them up, and load their boats. There are about 20 Teasels engaged in this contraband trade, carrying the eggs to Halifax, Quebec, and Boston. " These men combine tneether, and form a strong com- pany. They suffer no one to interfere with their business, drlTing away the Usher^ men or any one else that attempts to collect eggs near where they liappen to be. Blight makes right with them, if our information be true. They hare arms, and are said by the fishermen not to be scrupulous in the use of them. As soon as tbejr hare filled one vessel with eggs, they send her to market ; others follow in succes- sion, so that the market is always supplied, but neyer overstocked. One vessel of 26 tons is said to have cleared £ 200 by this * egging ' business in a fiivorable seastm." ^Nautical Magazine.) To the W. of Cape Whittle are the Wolf, Coacocho, Olomanosheebo, Wash-shecootai, and Musquarro Rivers, on the last three of which are posts of the Hudson's Bay Company. Next come the Kegashka Bay and River, the cliffs of Mont Joli, the cod banks off Natashquan Point, and several obscure rivers. The Mingan Islands are 29 in number, and lie between the moun- tainous shores of lower Labrador and the island of Anticosti. They abound in geological phenomena, ancient beaches, denuded rocks, etc., and are of very picturesque contours. About their shores of limestone are thick forests of spruce, birch, and poplar; seals and codfish abound in the adjacent watiers; and wild fowl are very plentiful in the proper sea- son. Large Island is 11 M. in circumference; and Mingan, Quarry, Niapisca, Esquimaux, and Charles Islands are 2-8 M. in length. They front the Labrador coast for a distance of 45 M. There are about 600 inhabitants near the islands, most of whom are In- dians and French Acadians, for whose spiritual guidance the Oblate Fathers have established a mission. The chief village is at Mingan Harbor^ on the mainland, back of Harbor Island; and here b a post of the Hudson*s Bay Company. The harbor is commodious and easy of access, and has been visited by large frigates. The salmon and trout fisheries of tho Seignior}' of Mingan are said to be the best in the world. Long Point is due N. of the Perroquets, 6 M. from Mingan Harbor, and is a modem fish- ing-village fronting on a broad beach. The fish caught and cured here are sent to Spain and Brazil, and form an object of lucrative traffic. The fishermen are hardy and industrious men, generally quiet, but turbulent and desperate during their long drinking-bouts. The Seigniory of the Mingan Islands and the adjacent mainland was granted to the Sieur Francois Bissot in 1661 , and the feudal rights thus conveyed and still main- tained by the owners have greatly retarded the progress of this district. The walrus fisheries wero formerly of great value here, and their memory is preserved by H'a^rMS Island, on whose shores the great sea-cows used to land. " In 1862 there was not a single establishment on the coast, between the Bay of Mingan and tho Seven IslaS, and not a quintal of codfish was taken, except on the banks of Mingan and at the lUver St. John, which the American fishermen have fiwquented for many years. Now, there is not a river, a cove, a creek, which is not occupied, and every year thsxe 232 RtmU64. THE MINGAN ISLANDS. am taken 80-86,000 quintals of eod, withoat eoanttne other fish." " The once desolate coasts of Mlngan haTe acquired, by immigration, a Tigorous, moral, and trully Catholic population. The men are generally strong and robust, and above aU they are hardy seamen." On the W. edge of the Mingan Islands are the PerroquetSj a cluster of low rocks where great numbers of puffins burrow and rear their young. On these islets the steamships Clyde and North Briton were wrecked (in 1857 and 1861). A beach of white sand extends W. from Long Point to the St. John Mver^ a distance of 18-20 M. The river is marked by the tall adjacent peak of Mount St. John (1,416 ft. high); and furnishes very good fishing (see G. C. Scott's " Fishing in American Waters "). The Manitou River is 31 M. W. of the St. John, and at 1| M. fVom its mouth it makes a grand leap oyer a cliff 113 ft. high, forming the most magnificent cataract on the N. shore. The coast Indians still repeat the legend of the invasion of this country by the Micmacs (from Acadia), 200 years ago, and its heroic end- The bos* tUe war-party encamped at the falls, intending to attack the Montaignais at the portages, for which purpose forces were station^ above and below. But the local tribes detected their presence, and cut off the guards at the canoea, then surprised the detachment below the falls, and finally attacked the main body above. After the unsparing carnage of a long night-battle, the Micmacs were conquered, all save their great wizard-chief, who stood on the verg^ of the falls, singing songs of de- fiance. A Montaignais chief rushed forward to take him, when the bold Micmao seized his opponent and leaped with him into the foaming waters. They were both boioe over the precipice, and the falls have ever since been known as the Manitousin (GoQJurer's) Falls. The Moisic Biver is about 40 M. W. of the Manitou River, and empties into a broad bay which receives also the Trout River. At this point are the Moisic Iron Works, near which there are about 700 inhabitants, most of whom are connected with the mines. This company has its chief office in Montreal, and runs a weekly steamer between Moisic and Quebec (see page 281). There is a hotel here, where visitors can get plain fare at $5 a week (no liquors on the premises). Large quantities of codfish and sal- mon are exported from Moisic. . The Seven Islands are a group of barren "mountain-peaks, starting suddenly from the ocean," and situated several leagues W. of the mouth of the Moisic River. They were visited by Cartier (1535). who reported that. he saw sea-horses here; and in 1731 they were included in the Domaine du Eoi, The trading-post which was established here by tae i'rench, 140 years ago, subsequently reverted to the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, and is visited by 3-400 Nasquapee Indians. Since the departure of til? H. B. Company, the post itself has lost its importance, but all ves- sels trading on the N. shore are now obliged to get their clearances here. The Montaignais Indians had a broad trail running thence up a vast and desolate valley to Lake St. John, 300 M. S. W., and the Moisic River was part of the canoe-route to Hudson's Bay. The Montaignais were here secure from the attacks of the dreaded Mohawks on the one side, and the maritime Esquimaux on *he other, and here they received the Jesuit mis- sionaries. ' t I ! THE SEVEN ISLANDS. HouU 6i. 233 >Th« once moral, and a above aU sluster of eir young. . recked (in le St. John ,1 adjacent )od fishing its mouth it ent cataract ftsion of this i. The hos- gnais at the \\xt the local len surprised ibove. Alter ered, all save t songs of de- bold Micmao ley were both ae Manitousia land empties his point ave ints, most of chief office Quebec (see in fare at $6 ifish and sal- saks, starting 3f the mouth vho reported uded in the here by tae g Bay Cora- he departure but all vesr- irances here. Lip a vast and lie River was lis were here side, and the le Jesuit mls- Th« soenery of the Bay of Seven Islands is fluhed for its wild bfouty and weird desolation. The bay is 7 M. long, and is sheltered by the islands and a mountainous promontory on the W. The immediate shore is a fine sandy beach, back of which are broad lowlands, and " the two parallel ranges of mountains, which add so much to the beauty of the distant fcencry of this bay, look like huge and impenetrable barriers between the coast and the howling wilderness beyond them " In the spring and autimin this bay is vifited by myriads of ducks, gerse, brant, and other will fowl, and the salmon-fishing in the adjacent streams is of great value. The Great Bou,^e is the loftiest of the Seven Islands, reaching an altitude of 700 ft. aliove tiie sea, and commanding a broad and magnificent view. There are about 800 inhab- itants here, a large proportion of whom are Indians who are engnged in the fur- tiade. On Carrousel Island is a fixed light, 195 ft. above the sea, which is visible for 20 M. . From Carrousel Island to the St. Margaret River it is 8 M. ; to tlie Cawee Islands, 24; to Sproule Point, 28; and still farther W. are the Pentecost River and English Point, off which are the Egg Islands, bear- ing a revolving white light, which warns off mariners from one of the most dangerous points on the coast. Iq the spring of 1711 the British government sent against Quebec 15 men-of-war, under Admii*al Sir Hovenden Walker, and 40 transports containing 5,000 voterau soldiers. During a terrible August storm, while they were ai^cending the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the fleet drove down on the Egg Islands. 1'he frigates were saved from the shoals, but 8 transports were wrecked, with l,3b3 men ou board, and *" 884 brave fellows, who had passed ccathlcss through tlie sanguinary battles of Blenheim, fianiillies, and Oudenarde, perL-hed miserably on the de^'olate shores of the St. Lawrence." This terrible loss was the cause of the total failure of the ex- pedition. The French v«;sfel8 which visited the isles after Walker's dii>aster " fuuud the wrecks of 8 large vessels, from which the cannon and best articles had been re- moved, and nearly 3,000 persons drowned, and their bodies lying along the shore. They recognized among them two whole companies of the Queen's Guards, di^ tinguished by their rid coats, and several Scottth tauiilieM, intended as settlers in Canada," among them Feven women, ail clasping each other's hands. The regi- ments of Kaine, Wiudresse, Seymour, and Glaytou were nearly annihilated in this wreck. " The French colony could not but recognize a Providence which watched singularly over its preservation, and which, not satisfied with rescuing it from the greatest danger it had yet run, had enriched it ^Yith the spoils of an enemy whom it had not had the pains to conquer ; hence they rendered llim most heart- felt thanks." (Charlevoix.) Beyond the hamlet on Caribou Point and the deep bight of Trinit}' Bay is Point de Monts (or, as some say. Point aux Bemona)^ 280 M. from Que- bec. There is a powerful fixed light on this promontory. 8 M. beyond is Godbout^ with its fur-trading post; and 9 M. farther W. is Cape St. Nicho- las. 18 M. from the cape is Manicouagan Point, 20 M. W. of which is the great Indian trading-post at the Beraimis River, where 700 Indians have their headquarters; thence to Cape Colombier it is 11|| M.; and to the church and fort at Port Neuf it is 12 M. Point Mille Vaches is opposite Biquette, on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, and is near the Sault de Mouton, a fall of 80 ft. There are several settlements of French Catholic farmers along the shore. At Les Eacoumains there are 500 inhabitants and considerable quantities of grain and lumber are sliipped. The coast is of granite, steep and bold, and runs S. W. 16 M. to Petite Bergeronne^ whence it is 6^ M. to the mouth of the Saguenay River. 234 JtouU 65, ANTICOSn. 60. AntiooftL The island of Anticosti lies in the mouth of the St. Lawrence "River, and f^h 118 M. long and 81 M. wide. In 1871 it had about 80 inhabitants, in 1 charge of the government lights and stations, and also 60 acres of cleared *Jand and 3 horses. Fox River is 60 M. distant; the Mingan Islands, 80 M.; and Quebec, about 450 M. The island has Uitely been the scene of the operations of the Anticosti Land Company, which designed to found here a new Prince Edward Island, covering these peat-plains with prosperous farms. The enterprise has as yet met with but a limited success. Anticosti has some woodlands, but is for the most part covered with V black peaty bogs and ponds, with broad lagoons near the sea. The bogs resemble those of Ireland, and the forests are composed of low and stunted j trees. The shores are lined with great piles of driftwood and the frag- ments of wrecks. There are many bears, otters, foxes, and martens; also partridges, geese, brant, teal, and all manner of aquatic fowl. The months of July and August are rendered miserable by the presence of immense swarms of black flies and mosquitoes, bred in the swamps and bogs. Large whales are seen off these shores, and the early codfish are also found here. Fine limestone and marble occur in several places; and marl and peat are found in vast quantities. There are lighthouses at S. W. Point, S. Point (and a fog-whistle), W. Point (and an alarm-gim), and Heath's jf Point. The government has established supply-huts along the shores I since the terrible wreck of the Gramcus^ on the S. E. point, when the crew ' reached the shore, but could find nothing to eat, and were obliged to devour ; each other. None were saved. In 1690 one of Sir William Phipps's troop-ships was wrecked on Anticosti, dnrlng .|^ the retreat from Quebec, and but 5 of its people survived the winter on the i!boat for Boston, 900 M. disttint ; and after a passage of 44 days they reached their old home in safety. The island was granted in 1691 to the Sieur Joliet, who erected a fort here, but was soon i plundered and ejected by the English. In 1814 H. B. M. frigate Leopard, 60, the same vessel which captured the U. S. frigate Chesapeake was lost here- " The dangerous, desolate shores of Anticosti, rich in wrecks, accursed in human I suffering. This hideous wilderness has been the grave of hundreds ; by the slowest andghastliestof deaths they died, — starvation. Washed ashore from maimed and . sinking ships, saved to destruction, they drag their chilled and battered limbs up the rough rocks ; for a moment, warm with hope, they look around with eager, strain- ing oye& for shelter, — and there is none ; the failing sight darkens on hill and forest, forest and bill, and black despair. Hours and days waste out the lamp of life, until at length the withered skeletons have only strength to die." (ISuoi Wabbobion.) PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. Quebec is bounded on the W. bv the Province of Ontario, on the N. by the wilderness towards Hudson's Bay, on the E. by Maine, Labrador, and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the S. by New Brunswick, New Eng- land, and New York. It covers 188,688 square miles, and its scenery is highly diversifled and often mountainous, contrasting strongly with the immense prairies of Ontario. The stately river St. Lawrence traverses the Province from S. W. to N. E., and receives as tributaries the large rivers Ottawa, Richelieu, St. Maurice, and Saguenay. The Eastern Townships are famed for their fine highland scenery, amid which are beautiful lakes and glens. The Province of Quebec ban 1,359,027 inhabitants (census of 1881), the vast majority of whom are of French descent and language. 1,170,718 of the people are Roman Catholics, and the laws of education are modified to suit the system of parish-schools. There are 68,797 Church-of-England people, 50,287 Presbyterians, and 39,221 Methodists; 1,073,820 are of French origin, 123,749 Irish, 81,515 English, and 54,923 Scottish. The Dominion of Canada is ruled by a Governor-General (appointed by the British sovereign) and Privy Council, and a Parliament consisting of 81) senators (24 each from Ontario and Quebec, 12 each from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and 9 from P. E. Island, Manitoba, and British Columbia) and 208 members of the House of Commons. There is one member for each 17,000 souls, or 89 for Ontario, 65 for Quebec, 21 for Nova Scotia, 16 for New Brunswick, 6 each for Prince Edward Island and British Columbia, and 5 for Manitoba. There are 30,144 Canadian militiamen, with a military school at Kingston ; and the navy consists of 8 armed screw-steamers (on the Itckes and the Gulf). In 1800 Canada had 240,000 inhabitants ; in 1825, 581,920; in 1851, 1,842,265; in 1871, 3,657,887; and in 1881, 4,324,810. Between 1842 and 1872, 831,168 emigrants from Great Britain entered Canada; and in the same period, 4,338,086 persons, from the same king- dom, emigrated to the United States. The exports and imports of Canada amount to about $ 90,000,000 a yeta. Her chief trade is with Great Brit- ain and the United States, and the main exports are brendstuffs and tim- ber. The Dominion has nearly 10,000 M. of railways, and there are more than 6,000 post-ofiices. The first European explorer who visited this country was Jacques C«r- 236 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. tier, who landed at Gasp^ in 1634, and ascended the St. Lawrence to the site of Montreal during the following year. Seventeen years later the ill-fated Roberval founded an ephemeral colony near Quebec, and thereafter for over half a century Canada was unvisited. In 1603 Champlain ascended to the site of Montreal, and Quebec and Montreal were soon founded ; while the labors of explorations, missions, and fighting tlie Iroquois were carried on without cessation. In 1629 Canada was taken by an English fleet under Sir David Kirke, but it was restored to France in 1632. The Company of the Hundred Associates was founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 1627, to erect settlements in La NouveUe France, but the daring and merciless in- cursions of the Iroquois Indians prevented the growth of the colonies, and in 1663 the company was dissolved. Finally, after they had exterminated tlie unfortunate Huron nation, the Iroquois destroyed a part of Mon- treal and many of Its people (1689). The long and bitter wars between Canada and the Anglo-American colonics had now commenced, and New York and New Ei^gland were ravaged by the French troops and their allied Indians. Naval expeditions were sent from Boston against Quebec in 1690 and 1711, but they both ended disastrously. Montreal and its environs were several times assailed by the forces of New York, but most of the fighting was done on the line of Lake Champlain and in the Maritime Provinces. At last these outposts fell, and powerful British armies entered Canada on the E. and W. In 1769 Wolfe's army captured Quebec, after a pitched battle on the Plains of Abraham; and in the following year Montreal was occupied by Gen. Amherst, with 17,000 men. The French troops were sent home; and in 1763, by the Treaty of Paris, France ceded to Great Britain all her immense Canadian domains. There were then 67,000 French people and 8,000 Indians in the Province. The resident population was conciliated by tolerance to their religion and other liberal measures, and refused to join the American Colonies when they revolted in 1775. The army of Gen. Montgomery took Montreal and the adjacent country, but the Canadians declined either to aid or to oppose the Americans ; and when Arnold was defeated in his attempt to Ptorm Quebec, the Continental forces were soon driven back into the United States. In 1791 the Provinces of Upper Canada and Lower Canada were formed, in order to stop the discontent of the French population, who were thus separated from the English and Loyalist settlements to the W. In 1791 representative government was established, and in 1793 slavery was abolished. The War of 1812 was waged bej'-ond the boundaries of Lower Canada, except during the abortive attempt of the Americans to capture Montreal. In 1837 revolutionary uprisings occurred in various parts of Ca'^ada, and were only put down after much bloodshed. In 1840 the two Provinces were united, after which the seigniorial tenures were abolished, decimal currency was adopted, the laws were codified, and other PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 237 B to the site ;he ill-fated jreafter for n ascended ided; while irere carried I fleet under Company of in 1627, to nerciless in- jolonies, and xterminated >art of Mon- ^ars between ed, and New id their allied 5 in 1690 and snvirons were »f the fighting ne Provinces, •ed Canada on tier a pitched Montreal was h troops were eded to Great •e then 67,000 their religion irican Colonies took Montreal ler to aid or to his attempt to back into the Lower Canada )opulation,who ents to the W. in 1793 slavery boundaries of e Americans to rred in various Ished. In 1840 lI tenures were difled, and other improvements took place. The capital, which had been shifted from Kingston to Montreal, and then to Toronto, was established by the Queen at Ottawa in 1860. The French and English deputies in Parliament were still at odds, and after a long wrangle in 1864, the attention of the country was drar;n to the old project of confederation, which was at last realized in 1867, and Canada (then divided into Ontario and Quebec) andthe.Mari- time Provinces were consolidated into tlie Dominion of Canada. Since that day the councils of the Imperial Government have manifested a de- sire to give independence to the new State ; and the Dominion, endowed with autonomic powers, has made rapid advances, building great railways, bridges, and canals, and forwarding internal improvements. Meantime Ontario lias gained a preponderating power in the national councils, and the statesmen of Quebec are now maturing plans for the repatriation of the 500,000 French-Canadians now in the United States, hoping thereby to restore the Province of Quebec to her former pre-eminence and to popu- late her waste places. " Like a virgin goddess in a primeval world, Canada still walks in nnconscioni beauty among her golden woods and along the margin of her trackless streams, catching but broken glances of her radiant majesty, as mirrored on their surface, and scarcely dreams as yet of the glorious future awaiting her in tbo Olympus of nations." (Eabl or Duffsrin.) *( The beggared noble of the early time became a sturdy country gentleman ; poor, but not wretched ; ignorant of books, except possibly a few scraps of rusty Latin picked up in a Jesuit school ; hardy as the hardiest woodsman, yet never for- getting his quality of gen^i/Ziomme/ scrupulously wearing its badge, the sword, and copying as well as he could the jGishions of the court, which glowed on his vision across the sea in all the effulgence of Tersailles, and beamed with reflected ray from the chateau of Quebec. He was at home among his tenants, at home among the Indians, and never more at home than when, a gun in his hand and a cruci£c on his breast, he took the war-path with a crew of painted savages and Frenchmen almost as wild, and pounced like a lynx from the forest on some lonely farm or out- lying hamlet of New England. How New England hated him, let her records tell. The reddest blood-streaks on her old annals mark the track of the Canadian gMUil- homme." (Parkhan.) " To a traveller from the Old World, Canada East may appear like a new coun- try, and its inhabitants like colonists ; but to me, coming from New Engkmd, .... it appeared as old as Normandy itself, and realized much that 1 had heard of Europe and the Middle Ages. Even the name^ of humble Canadian villages afifected me as if they had been those of the renowned cities of antiquity. To be told by a habitant, when I asked the name of a village in sight, that it is St. Fereole or SSt. Anne, the Guardian Angel or the Holy Joseph's ; or of a mountain, that it was Be'.ange or St. Hyarinthe ! As soon as you leave the States, these »iJntly names btii^in. St. John is the first town you stop at, and thenceforward the names of the mountains and streams and villages reel, if I may so speak, with the intoxication of poetry, — Chambly, Longueuil, Pointe aux Trembles, Bartholomy, etc., etc., — as if it needed only a little foreign accent, a few more liquids and vowels perchance in the language, to make us locate our ideals at once. I began to dream of Provence and the Troubadours, and of places and things which have no existence on the earth. They veiled the Indian and the primitive forest, and the woods toward Hud- son's Bay were only as the forests of France &nd Germany. I could not at once bring myself to believe that the inhabitants who pronounced daily those beautUtal and, to me, signifloant names lead as prosaic livesas we of New England. 238 Moute 66. PICTOU TO QUEBEC. " On* of th* trlbutaxlM of the St. Ann* it named La Riviirt de la Rot*, and iaf ther east are La Riviire de la Blondelie and La Riviira de la Friponne. Their very riviire meanders more than our river [It is] a mora western and wilder Arca- dia, methinks, than the world has ever seen ; for the Greeks, with all their wood and river gods, were not so qualified to name the natural features of a country as the ancestors of these French Canadians ; and if any people had a right to suMti- tute their own for the Indian names, it was they. They have preceded the pioneer on our own firontiers, and named the prairie for us." (Tboreao.) On the question as to whether the Canadians speak good French, Potherie says that " they had no dialect, which, indeed, is generally lust in a colony." Charle- toix observed (about 1720) : " The French language is nowhere spoken with greater purity, there being no accent perceptible." Bougainville adds : " They do not know bqjr to write, but they speak with ease and with an accent as good as the Parisian.'' Prof. Silliman says that they speak as good French as the common Americans speak English. From the voluminous work of M. Rameau, entitled La France aux Colonies '- Aeadiena et Cana/Iiens (Paris, 1859), we learn that in the year 1920 the valleys of the Saguenay, Ottawa, and Lower St. Lawrence shall be occupied by a Franco- Canadiw nation of 5,000,(XX) souls ; that the mournful vices, '* impoverishment of Intelligence, and corruption of manners," which the Anglo-American race in the United States has Buffered, shall be opposed and checked bv the fecund genius of the French race, and the '^ scientific and artistic aptitudes of the Canadians," emanating oontinent^nlightening radiance from the walls of the Laval University ; that the dissolute barbarism of the Americans shall be ameliorated by the sweet influences of the " Greco-Latin idea " of the Franco-Canadians ; and that that agricultural and intellectual people, " the general and essential principle of whose material and intellectual power is in their religious faith and in the simplicity of their manners," shall profit by the sad experience of Old France, — and under the conservative influ- ences of a social aristocracy shall erect a New France, to be forever illustrious in iti onltura " dt Vesprit^ la modestie dea maurs, la liberti et la religion.''^ 66. Pictou to Quebec. — The Coasts of Gaifpe and the Lower St Lawrenca This voyage is full of interest to the lover of fine scenery, and leads through some of the most attractive parts of the Provinces. The vessels pass the lofty highlands of Nova Scotia, the Acadian districts on the sandy shores of New Brunswick, the stately mountains about the Bay of Chaleur, and the frowning ridges of Gasp^. Then comes the ascent of the majestic St. Lawrence, with its white French villages, its Alpine shores, and romantic history, terminated by the quaint mediaeval towers of Quebec, "the Walled City of the North." The steamers are large and comfortable, and are quite steady in ordinary seasons. The cabin-tables are well supplied, and the attendance is good. There is but little danger from sea-sickness, except in very breezy weather (see also page 3). This route is served by the vessels of the Quebec Steamship Company. Passengers leave Halifax by railway Monday morning, and connect with the steamship which leaves Pictou on the same afternoon, calling at Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Summerside, P. £. I., PerciS, Gaspd, Metis, Father Point, and Quebec, arriving at the latter port on Friday, and proceeding at once to Montreal, where she arrives next morning. Se- CARLETON. Route ee. 239 )M, and ftw Their Tery wilder Arca- , their wood , countrv ai ht to Buhatl- Uie pioneer taming, the steamer leaves Montreal on Monday, and Quebec on Tues- day, and arrives in Pictoa on Saturday morning. Connections are made with steamboats for the inner ports of the Bay of Chaleur, at Perc^, and travellers may thus reach the line of the Intercolonial Railway at Camp- bellton. Potherle says ly." Charle- i with greater They do not a good as the the common MX Colonies^ the valleys of by a Franco- iveVlBhment of an race In the d genius of the IB," emanating fgity ; that the meet influences at j^cultural ise material and heir manners," jFervatlve Influ- lllustrious in Its the Lower py, and leads The vessels stricts on the ,ut the Bay of the ascent of es, its Alpine ^diJBval towers s are large and le cabin-tables it little danger lage 3). liip Company. ;, and connect ioon, calling at .,Perc6, Ga8p<5, irt on Friday, morning' B«- Halifax to Pictou, see Route 31. St. John to Shediac, see Route 14. After leaving Pictou Harbor, the steamship passes out between Caribou Island and Pictou Island (see also page 175), and enters the Northumber- land Strait. On the S. are the dark highlands of Pictou County, among whose glens are scattered settlements of Scottish people. 10-12 M. N. are the low hills of Prince Edward Island. The deep bight of Tatamagouche Bay (see page 81) is passed about 85 M. W. of Pictou, and the blue and monotonous line of the Cobequid Mts. may be seen in the S., in very clear weather. Beyond Bale Verte the steamer passes through the narrow part of the Strait between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and the low red shores of Prince Edward Island are seen on the r. The course is next laid along the level Westmoreland coast (see page 59), and the har- bor of Shediac is entered. The general aspect of the N. Shore of New Brunswick is described in Koute 15 (page 60). It is to be remembered, however, that the Gulf- Ports steamships do not stop at Richibucto, Bathurst, or Campbellton. Having, then, described the coast from Shediac to Dalhousie in Route 16, the present route will follow the shores of the great Gaspesian peninsula. As the steamship leaves the estuary of the Restigouche, the red sand- stone cliffs of Maguacka Point are passed, on the I., beyond which is the broad lagoon of 'Carleton Road. The beautiful peak of * Traoadiegash is now approached, and after passing the lighthouse on Traoadiegash Point, the white village of Carleton is seen on the Quebec shore. This place has about 800 inhabitants and a convent, and is snugly situated under the lee of the mountains, near a bay which is secure during gales from the N. and £. Immense schools of herring visit these shores during the springtime, at the spawning season, and are caught, to be used as food and for fertilizing the ground. The village is enterprising and active, and is inhabited chiefly by Acadians. The steamer stops off the port if there are any passengers or freight to be landed. 240 RauU 66. PASPEBIAC. I M 111 I "Carleton Id a pretty town, to which a steamer Mtnettmea ram from CUnp- beUton. rendering the nalmon streams in the Ticinity quite accesbihle. ^en the ran siiines, its white cottages, nestling at the foot of the majestic Tracadiegash Bfountnin, glisten like snow-flalces against the sombre bacltground, and gleam out in lovely contrast with the clouds that cap the summit of this outpost sentinel of the Alleghany range." (Haixock.) The steamer now passes out upon " the undulating and voluptuous Bay of Chaleur, full of long folds, of languishing contours, which the wind caresses with fan-like breath, and whose softened shores receive the flood- ing of the waves without a murmur." On the N. is Cascapediac Bay, on whose shores are the Acadian and Scottish hamlets of Maria and New Richmond, devoted to farming and the fisheries. The rugged peaks of the Tracadiegash range are seen in fine retrospective views. New Carlisle is near the mouth of the Grand Bonaventure River, and is the capital of Bonaventure County. It has 700 inhabitants, and is en- gaged in the fisheries, having also a few summer visitors. The churches and court-houst occupy a conspicuous position on the liigh bank which overlooks the bay. This town was founded in 1785 by American Loyal- ists, who received from the government one j*ear's provisions, lands, seeds, and farming-implements. $400,000 was expended in establishing this settlement and Douglastown. Faspebiao ( darkens Hotel) is a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on the N. shore of the Bay of Chaleur, 440 M. from Quebec. Its harbor is formed by a fine beach of sand 3 M. long, curving to the S., and forming a natural breakwater against the sea during easterly gales. The cimrch and houses of the village are built above the red clifis of the shore, and present the neat and orderly appearance of a military post. On the line of the beach are the great white (and red-trimmed) storehouses and ship- yards of Charles Robin & Co. and Le Boutillier Brothers, the mercantile establishments which sustain the place. Robin & Co. is an ancient house which dates from 1768, and has its headquarters at the Isle of Jersey, off the coast of France. Paspebiac was settled in 1766 by Charles Robin, who established here a large fishing station. In June, 1778, the place was taken by two American privateers, which carried away the vessels Hope and Bee. The whole fleet was soon afterward captured by H. B. M. frigates.J7un^«r and Piptr, but Robin was forced to pay such heavy salvage that it ruined his business. In 1788 he came back here under French colors, and in 20 years accumulated a great fortune. The firm of Charles Robin & Co. is now the moist powerful on all these coasts, and keeps large fleets employed, supporting numerous villages firom 7 wealthy establishments. The heads of the firm live in Jersey, and their officers and man- agers on this coast are forced by rule to lead a life of celibacy. Thin company em- ploys 7£0 men, besides 17 vessels and 151 sailors ; and the LeBoutilliers have 680 men and 15 vessels. They export vast quantities of fish and oil to the West Indies and the Mediterranean, supplying their (Canadian posts, in return, with all needed product!! of other countries. Paspebinc receives $ 100,000 worth of goods jearlv, »nd exports $800,000 worth of fish. The best fish is sent to the Mediterranean in bulk, the second grade goes in tubs to Brazil, and the poorest is shipped in casks to the West Indies. The Jersey fleet reaches Paspebiac early in May, spends the aummer fishing in the bay and Gulf, and returns in December. The American mar* ket is supplied by the Cape- Ann fleet in these waters; and the proceeds .of the au- tumnal months are sold in Upper Canada. The annual yield of the Ray of Chaleur U eatimated at 26,000 quintals of dry codfish, 600 quintals of liaddock, 8,000 bar- ± CAPE DESPAIR. Jtwte ee. 241 ftom Camir When the •Tnicadlegash id gleftin out gt sentinel or AptuouB Bay cli the wind ive the flood- tdiac Bau, on ria and New I peaks of the 5 Kiver, and U its, and is eii- Tlie churches rh bank which nerican Loyal- as, lands, seeds, Btablishing this nts, situated on .. Its harbor Is S., and forming es. The church ,f the shore, and ost. On the line .houses and ship- i, the mercantile \9» w Its headquarters itn 1766 by Charles 1778, the place 2J ■lels Hope and i««- SfunJTr and P.D^r d hl8 bu»i«»««»- JS tcn..mlatedfg*|t >werful on all these llBgeB from 7 wealthy ir officers and roan- ThiH company exn^ .BoutUUerfl have 6^ kU to the West Indies [urn with all needed S'of floods yearlj, heMedlterrtneanln ^rti».-wpp«i^„vX ^?h?«S: i'SSdoci. 8,000 h«- fslf of herring, 800 bwrreli of Mlmon, and 16,000 galloiu of ood-oiL Tbe flahecles of the bay and Qolf are Talued at f 800,000 a year, and iamploy 1,600 sail of Teeielf and 18,000 men. In January and February the thermometer somethnes sinks to 25" below nio, and the bay ia overhung by dark massefi of " frost smoke." In this season the Aurora Borealis is seen by night, illuminating the whole northern horiion with steady brilliance. In July and August the thermometer ranges from 66° to 100*, and the air is tempered by fresh sea-breezes. The name Paspebiae means ^'broken banks," and the inhabitants are called Paspy Jacks or Pospillots. Many of the bits of a^te and jasper called *'■ Qasp6 peb> bles " are found on this shore after the gales of spring and autumn, and are sent to the jewellers of London and Quebec It is supposed Uiat they come firom the con- glomerate rocks on the Restigouche Biver. Beyond Paspebiae are the shores of Hope, on which immense masses of caplin-fisb are thrown up every spring. They are shovelled into wagons by the farmers and are used to fertilize the land. The next point of in- terest is the deep bay of Port Daniel^ a safe and well-sheltered haven, on whose W. shore is a remarkable hill, 400 ft high. Near the fishing- village up the harbor are deposits of oil-bearing shale. The steamer soon passes Point Maquereau (which some consider the N. portal of the Bay of Chaleur), with Point Miscou on the S. E. At midnight on Oct. 15, 1838, the ship Colbome went ashore on Point Maquerean, and was soon broken to pieces. Her crew, consisting of 42 men, was lost. The cargo was composed of silks, wines, silver-plate, and specie, and was valued at over 8 400,000. The wreckers of Gasp6 recovered rich treasures from the wreck. Newport is 6 M. beyond Point Maquereau, and is inhabited by 200 Aca- dians, who are devoted to the fisheries and to the pursuit of the vast fiocks of wild fowl which resort to these shores daring the spring and autumn. Great and Little Pabos are seaside hamlets, 4 and 8 M. farther E. 4 M. beyond is Grand River, a large Acadian village clustered about the fish- ing-establLshment of Robin & Co. It is 7 M. from this point to Cape Despair. Cape Despair was named by the French Cap cTEspoir, or Cape Hope, and the present name is either an Anglicized pronunciation of this French word, or else was given in memory of the terrible disaster of 1711. During that year Queen Anne sent a great fleet, with 7,000 soldiers, with orders to capture Quebec and occupy Canada. The fleet was under Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker, and the army was commanded by Qen. Hill. During a black fog, on the 22d of August, a violent storm arose and scattered the fleet in all directions, hurling 8 large ships on the terrible ledges of Egg Island (see page 283) and Cape Despair, where they were lost with all on board. Fragments of the wrecks, called Le Naufrage Anglais, were to be seen along the shores until a recent date ; and there was a wild superstition among the fishermen to the effect that sometimes, when the sea was quiet and calm, vast white waves would roll inward from the Gulf, bearing a phantom ship crowded with men in ancient military costumes. An officer stands on the bow, with a white^lad woman on his left arm, and as the maddened surge sweeps the doomed ship on with light- ning speed, a tremendous crash ensues, the clear, agonized cry of a woman swells over the great voice of despair, — and naught is seen but the black olifEs and the level sea. Just beyond Gape Despair is the prosperous fishing-station of Cape Cove^ 9 M. from Perc^. The traveller should now be on the lookout for the Percd Rock and Bonaventure Island. The steamer runs in between the Rook and the Island, affording fine views of both. . 11 P 242 HxnOeee. PEBC£ The * Pero< Book is 288 ft. high, rising with preoipitoos walls direotljr fiom the waves; and is about 600 ft. long. This citadel-like cliff is pierced by a lofty arch, through which the long levels of the sea are visible. Small boats sometimes traverse this weird passage, under the immense Gothic arch of rock. There was formerly another tunnel, near the outer point of the Sock, but its roof fell in with a tremendous crash, and left a great obelisk rising from the sea beyond. The summit of the Perc6 Rock covers about two acres, and is divided into two great districts, one of which is inhabited by the gulls, and the cormorants dwell on the otiier. If either of these trespasses on the other's territory (which occurs every fifteen minutes, at least), a battle ensues, the shrill cries of hundreds or thousands of birds rend the air, great clouds of combatants hover over the plateau, and peace is only restored by the retreat of the invader. When the conflict is between large flocks, it is a scene worthy of close notice, and sometimes becomes highly exciting. The Rock is at right angles with Mt. Joli, and is of new red sandstone. The top is covered with fine grass. Many years ago the Rock was ascended by two fishermen, and the way once being found, scores of men clambered up by ropes and carried away the eggs and young birds, finding tht/ older ones so tame that they liad to be lifted off the nests. This vast aviary would have been depopulated long ere this, but that the Perc6 magis- trates passed a law forbidding the ascent of the Rock. There are numerous quaint and weird legends attached to this place, the strangest of which is that of Le Ginie de Vile Percie, a phantom often seeu over the plateau. " It is likely that the founda- tion for this legend can he traced to the vapory or cloud-like : ppearance the vast flocks of water-fowl assume when seen at a distance, wheeling in every fiiuitastio shape through the air, previous to alighting on the summit." The harbor of Percd is very insecure, and is open to the N. E. winds. In earlier times this port was called La Terre des Tempetes, so frequent and disastrous were the storms. The village has about 400 inhabitants, most of whom follow the shore-fisheries in small boats. The town is visited every spring and summer by hundreds of stalwart Jersey lads, sent out by the Robins. Perc^ consists of South Beach, where are the white-and-red buildings of the Robin establishment; and North Beach, where is the bulk of the popu- lation, with the court-house, jail, and Catholic church. The two sections are separated by Mount Joli, a lofty promontory which here approaches Perc^ Rock. The Episcopal church is a cosey little Gothic structure, accommodating 100 persons. Perc^ is " the Elysium of fishermen,*' and hence arises a circumstance which detracts from its value as a summer resort, — when the shore is covered with the refuse parts of codfish, pro- ducing a powerful and unpleasant odor. It is said that even the potatoes are found to contain fish-bones. Back of Perc^ is the remarkable * Honnt St. Anne, with its bold and massive square top rising 1,230 ft. above the sea, and visible for a distance of 70 M. over the water. This eminence may be ascended without great trouble, and from its summit is obtained one of the noblest views in tlie Maritime Provinces. It includes many leagues of the savage mountain- land of Gasp^, extending also along the coast from the Bay of Chaleur to Gasp^ Bay and Ship Head. But the marine view is the most attractive PEBCfi. Emiuee, 243 alls directly Uffte pierced Lsible. Small oense Gothic juter point of i left a great livided into two lorants dwell on ich occurs eveiy ds or thousands iteau, and peace i9 between large highly exciting, one. The top is le way once being , eggs and young the nests, inw the Perc6 inagls- numerous quain* that of U Ginit IV that the founds^ .iearance the ^ast S every fentastlo )N.E. "Winds. In , 80 frequent and inhabitants, most e town is visited lads, sent out by ■red buildings of bulkofthepopu- The two sections here approaches Gothic structure, f fishermen," and due as a summer ts of codfish, pro- even the potatoes . with its bold and Lsible for a distance ided without great oblest views in the , savage mountain- _ Bay of Chaleur to lie most attractive and embraces many leagues of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with its great fish- ing-fleets and squadrons of small boats. It overlooks Bonaventure and Perc^ Rock. A fine view is also obtained from the highway near French Town, including a vast area of the Gulf, the bird-colonies on top of the Bock, Point St. Peter, and Barry Head, with its conspicuous Catholic church. The walk around the mountain to the corner of the beach is full of interest; and the road through the hills to Gasp^ is picturesque, though rough, leading by Corny Beach and through a profound mountain-gorge. Mt. St. Anne is also known as Mt. Joli and the Table Roulante. Upon its red -sandstone slopes are found shell-fossils, jasper, agate, and fine quartz crystals. * Bonaventare Island forms a great natural breakwater before the Perc^ shores, and is surrounded by deep channels. It is 2[| M- from the main- land, and the passage around the island in a small boat afibrds a pleasant excursion. Bonaventure is 2^ M. long and | M. wide, and is a vast pile of red conglomerate rock, with a line of cliffs 3-500 ft. high, facing the Gulf over 50 fathoms of water. There are about 300 French Catholics on the shores, connected with the fishing-establishment of LeBoutillier Brothers. The island was formerly the property of Capt. Duval, a brave mariner of the Channel Isles, who, in the privateer Vulture^ swept the coasts of France during the Napoleonic wars. He is buried on Mount Joli. '* Perc4 is one of the curiosities of the St. Lawrence. If one should believe all the fkntastic stories, to which tradition adds its prestige, that rest about this formidable rock, thrown forward into a ceaselessly surging and often stormy sea, like a fearless defiance from the shoal to the abyss, it could only be approached with a mysterious dread mingled with anguish. Percd proper is a village of 200 firesides, established on a promontory that seems to guard the St. Lawrence : this promontory is not lofty, nor does it compare with our northern mountains ; but it is wrinkled, menacing, fhll of a fierce grandeur ; it might be said that the long battle with the ocean has revealed to it \ia strength and the power which it hol& from God to restrain the waves from passing their appointed bounds. It Is an archer of the Middle Ages, covered with iron, immovable in his armor, and who receives, invulnerable, all the blows of the enemy. In face of the Atlantic, which has beaten it with tempests through thousands of centuries, trembling under the eternal shower of the waves, but immovable as a decree of heaven, gloomy, thoughtful, enduring without mur- mur the wrathful torrents that inundate it, bent downward like a fidlen god who expiates in an eternity the arrogant pride of a single day, Perc^ fills us at once with a sorrowful admiration and a sublime pity." (Arthub Buigs.) Percd was visited by Oartier in 1684, and thereafter became a celebrated fishing- station for the French fleets. The coast from Ganso to Cape Rosier was granted soon after, and on its reversion to the Crown this site was bestowed on De Fronsao, who founded a permanent village hom, while over 500 transient fishermen made it a summer rendezvous. Bishop Laval sent the Franciscans here in 1678 to look after the spiritual welfare of the people, and they erected a chapel at Perci and the Church of St Claire on Bonaventure Island. In 1690 the place was taken, with all its vessels, by two British frigates, whose crews sacked and burnt all the houses at Percd and Bonaventure, destroyed the churches, and fired 150 gunshots through the picture of St. Peter. IiT 1711 another naval attack was made by the British, and the French ships Hiroa and Vermandois were captured in the harbor. In 1776 a desperate naval combat took place off Perc6 Rock, between the American pri- vateers that had devastated the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the British war- vessels 1Vb{/^and DUigence. Two of the American vessels were sunk within cannon* ■hot of the Rock. 244 naituee. qaspL After leaving her anehorage off Percd the steamship mns N. across the openings of Mai Bay, and at 9 M. out passes Point 8t Peter, with its fish- ing-village. The coarse is next laid to the N. W. up Gasp^ Bay, with the iktal strand of the Grand Gr6ve on the r. To the 1. is Douglattoum, on the broad lagoon at the mouth of the St. John River (famous for salmon). This town was laid out by Surveyor Douglas, and is inhabited by Irish and French people. The vessel now steams in through the narrow strait between the grand natural breakwater of Sandy beach and the N. shore, and enters the * Oasp^ Basin. The bay is 20 M. long and 6 M. wide, and the basin is a secure and land-locked harbor at its head. As the steamer rounds the lighthouse on Sandybeach, beautiful views are pre- sented of the broad haven, with the North River Mts. to the W. " The mountains of Gasp6 are fkir to behold, With their fleckings of shadow and gleamings of gold." f Oasp^ iGulf\Hv u fsytaX pestilence, until a venerable man landed on their shore, and arrested the progri'ss of the disfase by erecting the cross (see Pliai Lbolgbo*s Nouvetle Halation de GASPS!: AouU 66. 245 [. across the rtth its fisb- ay, with the glasUwn, on for salmon), ited by Irish narrow strait the N. shore, a 6 M. wide, ead. As the lews are pre- W. « tifully situated W. arm of the itry, and is de- i large fleet of erranean ports, ty. The chief ave also a fine and wells 7 -800 sited by 2-800 te scenery, cool br fishing. The are famous for thickly settled, ,. • On a hill to This is the first a wharf. Fort- on the Labrador nabaslnvhcrea ,, two rivers, which 4b-, hills here and »rni^?{Se uJate and striking." r unusual advances pa of their country, of the cross. They they were scourged re, and arrested the la Chupisie, 1676). It Is rapposed that fhls m jtterlous Tidtor wu a Norssman. TIm name Oaspi meani '* land's end," one of Its component parts being found also iu the aboriginal words Mala-gash, . Traeadie-gash, etc. The warlike tribes on this shore were formerly distinguished for their fierce and Tictorious forays into the re> mote lands of the Montaignais and Esquimaux. Prof. Bafn, the great Danish archseolopst, has adTanced a theory to the effect that Gasp6 was a fishing-station of the Norse Tlklngs In the 11th, 12th, and 18th centuries. It is supposed that it was visited in 1606 by the Spanish mariner YelaKco, who ascended the St. Lawrence for 200 leagues, or else by Stefano Oomea, who was sailing from Spain to Cuba in 1525^ but was blown for firom his course, and entered the Oulf of St. Lawrence. There is an old Castilian tradition that the gold-seeking Spaniards, finding no precious metals here, said, " Aca not/a" (" There is nothing here"). This oft-repeated phrase became fixed in the memory of the Indians, though it was not comprehended ; and when Gartier came, they supposed him to be of the same people as the previous European visitors, and endeavored to excite Ills interest by repeating the words, *' Aca u&da, Aca n^da." He thought tliat they were giving him the name of their nation or country, and so, according to this puerile tradition, arose the name of Canada. Another theory of the derivation of the name was given by the early New-Englanders : " New England is by some af- firmed to be an island, bounded on the north with the River Canada (so called from Monsieur Cane)." (Josseltn's New England^s Rarities Discovered, 1672. ) " From this lake northwards is derived the famous River of Canada, so named of Monsieur de Cane, a French Lord, who first planted a colony of French in America." (MoBp ton's New English Canaan, 1682.) The generally received account of the origin of the name Canada is that it is an Indian compound word. Caugh-na-waugh-a means " the village of the rapid," its first syllable being similar to that of the Indian word Caugh-na-daugh, "village of huts" (also of uiugh-yu-ga, or Cayuga, and Caugh-na-dattgh'ga, now Canan- daigua), which has l>een euphonized into " Canada." When Brant, the Mohawk chieftain, translated the Gospel of St. Matthew into his own language, he always put Canada for " a village." In April, 1534 (being then in his fortieth year), the bold and sagacious Jaques Cartier set sail from ancient St. Malo (" thrust out like a buttress into the sea, strange and grim of aspect, breathing war from its walls and battlements of ragged stone, — a stronghold of privateers, the home of a race whose intractable and de« flant independence neither time nor change has subdued"). He was under the patronage of Philippe de Brion-Chabot, Admiral of France, and waa sent forth to reconnoitre a new route to Cathay, for the great advantage of European commerce. It was also thought that in the new realms beyond the sea the Catholic Church might make such conquests as would requite her for the great schisms of Luther and Calvin and the Anglican Church. The result has nearly justified the hope. The intrepid voyager traversed the Strait of Belle Isle, and stretched across to the Baiedes Chaleurs, which was entered on the 9th of July, and received Its name ft-om the intense heats which the mariners encountered there. He then landed at Gaspe, and took possession of the country in the name of his Church and King by erecting a cross, 30 ft. high, adorned with the fleur-de-lis. Here he met a company of warriors from Quebec, campaigning against the natives of this region, and car- ried two of them to France. They were introduced to all the splendors of Paris and the court of Francis I., and in the following year returned with Cartier and piloted his fleet up the St. Lawrence to their home at Stadacona (Quebec). " Twenty vessels were laden with stores, food, building implements, guns, and ammunition ; nearly 150 pieces of ordnance were stowed away in the different holds, to be mounted upon the walls of Quebec aud other forts ; the decks were crowded with emigrants, male and female ; priests were there, burning with religious aeai ; and everything looked hopeful for their success. The whole fleet was put under the command of M. de Roquemont, a French Admiral; and fhll of hope and expectation they set sail from France in the month of April, 1627." This stately fleet was over- taken by a storm in the Oulf, and took refUge In Oaspi Bay, where they were boldly attacked by Captain Klrke's English squadron of 3 vessels. Kirke summoned the immensely superior French fleet to surrender, but De Roquemont, though unprepared for battle, and hampered with fireight and non-combatants, sent back a spirited refusal. The Kirkes then saUed boldly into the hosUle fleet, and after laking the Adminl'a • / r 246 Xoute$7. THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE. ihtp, earrlfld it by boardinf . The French rerinted bat feebly, and the whole nqiiad* toa fell into the oold Briton's hands. He burnt 10 vessels, and Ireighted the othen with the grand train of artillery and the other stores, with wliich he returned to England- Champlain was left in despair, at Quebec ; and the Kirkes were burnt in effigy in the Place de Greve, at Paris. Oasp^ was honored, in 1663, by the sojourn of the brave old Baron Dubois d'Av- augour, some time Governor of New France. From this point he sent his celebrated memorial to Colbert, the French Prime Minister, after he had been deposed from office through the influence of Bishop Laval and the Jesuits. Hence he sailed to France, and soon met a soldier's death in the Croatian fortress of Ztin, which he was defending against the Turks. In the year 1760 Commodore Byron's powerful fleet entered Gasp^ Basin and captured the village. The French frigate La Catharina was in the harbor, but was soon taken and destroyed by fire. Many years ago the Gaspisian peninsula was erected into a province, and the seat of government was located at this town. But the number of inhabitants was not enough to warrant the expense of a vice-r^;al court, and the peninsula waa reannexed to Quebec. In leaving Gasp^ Basin the steamship passes the beaches of the N. shore, lined with whale-huts and fish-stages, and then runs to the S. E. down Gasp^ Bfty. * Cape Gasp^ is 7^ M. N. of Point St. Peter, and fronts the Gulf with a line of sandstone cliffs 692 ft. high. Off the S. E. point there was formerly a statue-like rock 100 ft. high, called La VieiUe (the Old Woman), but it has been thrown down by the sea. The Indians named this rock Gasepion, whence the name Gaspi, which is now applied to the great peninsula between the Bay of Chaleur and the St. Lawrence River. Two leagues beyond Cape Gasp^ the steamship passes Cape Rosier, and enters the St. Lawrence River. 67. The Lower St Lawrence. '* The most interesting object in Canada to me was the River St. Lawrence, known fltr and wide, and for centuries, as the Great River. Cartier, its discoverer, sailed up it as for as Montreal in 1585, nearly a century l)efore the coming of the Pil- grims ; and I have seen a pretty accurate map of it so far, containing the city of 'Hochelaga ' and the river ' Saguenay,' in Ortelius's Theatrum Orbis Terrarum, printed at Antwerp in 1575, in which the &mous cities of * Norumbega ' and ' Or- sinora' stand on the rough-blocked continent where New England is to-day, and the fabulous but unfortunate Isle of Demons, and Frislant, and others, lie off and on in the unfrequented sea, some of them prowling near what is now the coun^e of the Cunard steamers. It was famous in Europe before the other rivers of North America were heard of, notwithstanding that the mouth of the Mississippi is said to have been discovered first, and its stream was reached by De Soto not long after ; but the St. Lawrence had attracted settlers to its cold shores long before the Missis- sippi, or even the Hudsor, was known to the world. The first explorers declared that the summer in that country was as warm as France, and tli«y named one of the iwys in the Gulf of St. Lawrence the Bay of Chaleu^, or warmth ; but they said notliing about the winter being as cold as Greenland. In the MS. account of Cartier's second voyage it is called * the greatest river, without comparison, that in known to have ever been seen.' The savages told him that it was the 'Chemin du Canada'' (the highway to Canada), 'which goes so far that no man hath ever been to the endj that they had heard.' The Saguenay, one of its tribu- taries, is described by Cartier in 1585, and still more particularly by Jean AlphonFe in 1642, who adds : ' I think that this river cumes from the sea of Cathay, for in ,this place there issues a strong current, and there runs here a terrible tide.' The early explorers saw many whales and other sea-monsters far up the St. Lawrence. Chainplun, in his map, represents a wliale spouting in the harbor of Quebec, 860 M. from what may be called the mouth of the river ; and (AarleToiz took his reader to CAPE ROSIER. Rouuer, 247 whole nqnad* i«d the oihers » leturned to s were burnt I Dubois d'AT- his celebrated deposed from e he called to 5rin, which he ispi Ba«ln and le harbor, but t peninBula was his town. But of a vlce-r^^al hes of the N. s to the S. E« 3t. Peter, and Off the S. E. Jled La Vieille The Indians is now applied e St. Lawrence is Cape Rosier, Lawrence, known ( dlccoverer. sailed onilng of the Pu- tainlng the city of Orbis Terrarum, imbega' and •Gr- and Is to-day, and ■■others, lie off and now the course of ler rivers of North IsslsBJppl Is said to ,tD not long after , t before the MisbIs- explorers declared they named one or warmth ; but they n the MS. account Ithout comparison, ni that It was the BO far that no man IV one of Its tnbu- /by Jean Alphonfe a of Cathay, for in terrible tide.' The y th« summit of Cape Diamond to see the ' porpoises, white as fnow,* sporting on ih« f surfbce of the harbor of Quebec. In Champlain's day it was commonly called ' the ; Great Rirer of Canada.' More than one nation has claimed it. In Ogllby's ' Amei^ ica of 1670,' in the map Novi Belgi^ it is called * De Groote Kivier ran Niew Ne* derlandt ' It rises near another fiither of waters, the Mississippi, Issuing firom a remarkable spring far up in the woods, called Lake Superior, 1,500 M. in circum- ference ; and several other springs there are thereabouts which feed it. It makes Buch a noise In its tumbling down at one place as Is heard all round the world. Bouchette, the Surrey or-Oeneral of the Canadas, calls it ' the most splendid river on the globe ' ; says that it is 2,000 M. long (more recent geographers make it 4-600 M. longer ) ; that at the Riviere du Sud it ia 11 M. wide ; at the Paps of Matane, 25 ; at tho Seven Islands, 73; and at its mouth, from Cape Rosier to the Mingan Settle-^ ment.. in Labrador, 98 M. wide. It has much the largest estuary, regarding both^ length and breadth, of any river on the globe. Perhaps Charlevoix describes the St Lawrence truly as the most navigable river in the world. Between Montreal and Quebec it averages 2 M. wide. The tide is felt as for up as Three Rivers, 482 M., which is as far as from Boston to Washington. The geographer Guyot ob- serves that the Maranon Is 3,000 M. long, and gathers its waters from a surikce of l,500j000 fiquare M. ; that the Mississippi is also 3,000 M. long, but its basin covers only 8-900,000 square M. ; that the St. Lawrence is 1,800 M. long, and its basin covers 1,000,000 square M. ; and speaking of the lakes, he adds : ' These vast fresh- water seas, together with the St. Lawrence, cover a surface of nearly 100,000 square| M.,and it has been calculated that they contain about one haT of all the fresh,! water on the surface of our planet.' Pilots say there are no sou (dings till 150 H. up the St Lawrence. McTag^art, an engineer, observes that ' th > Ottawa is larger'.'l than all the rivers in Great Britain, were they running in one.' The traveller Grey writes : ' There is not perhaps in the whole extent of this immense continent so fine an approach to it as by the river St. Lawrence. In the Southern States you have, in general, a level country for many miles inland ; here you are introduced at once into a majestic scenery, where everything is on a grand scale, — mountains, woods, lakes, rivers, precipices, waterfalls.' We have not yet the data for a minute com- parison of the St. Lawrence with the South American rivers ; but it is obvious that, taking it in connection with its lakes, its estuary, and its falls, it easily bears off the palm from all the rivers on the globe." (Freely condensed firom Thobbav's A Yankee in Canada.) ^vir^-v " Bien loin de ks ftourbii, sons Tombre dei platanes, L'Arabe au blanciM burnous qui suit let caraTonei Bur lei sables errant D6convre moina joyeux aon oasia hnmide. Que lea Canadlena sous la saison torride Leur fleuve Samt-Lauront A nous aes champs d'azur et ses f ratehes retraitea, . Lea nota couronn^a de moufantea aigrettes. Lea monts audacieux. Lea ardmea piquants que la mer y depose. £t aon grand horizon oil voire ceil ae repoae Comme 1 £toUe aux cieux."* L. J. G. FislT. V terriDw vi""- -- in the St. Lawrence. S of Quebec, 860 M. Utookhi»n»d«'* Totgoura fldele & te servir ; Et dans tea bras, mere cherie, Peut rendre aon dernier aoupir. " Balut, 6 del de ma patrie I Solut, 6 noble Saint-Laurent I Ton nom dans mon &me attendrte Rfepand un parf um enivrant. O Canada, fila de la France, Qui to couvrit de ses bienfaits, Toi, notre amour, notre esperance, Qui pourra t'oubuer jamais 7 " O. Cztuxzim. Cape Rosier, "the Scylla of the St. Lawrence," is 6 M. beyond Gape Gaspd, and is the S. portal of the St. Lawrence River, whose mouth at this point is 96 M. wide. At the end of the cape is a stone h'ghthouse tower, 112 ft. high, with a fixed light (visible 16 M.) and a fog-horn. The hamlets of Grand Grdve, Griffin's Cove, and Gape Rosier are in this vicinity, and are inhabited by French people, who are de- ** Sur ces bords enchant§8, notre mire, la France, A laissS de sa gloire un immortal aillon, Precipitant ses flots vera I'ocean immense, Le noble Saint-Laurent redit encor son nom. •* Salut, 6 ma belle patrie I Salut, 6 bords du Saint-Laurent Terre que Tetranger envie, £t qu'ii regrette en la quittant. Heureux qui peut paaaer aa vie. ! 248 Jtouu er. CAPE MAODELAINE. pendent on the fishing-establishment of William Hjman & Sons, of 6asp4. '* The coast between Cape Rosier and Cape Ghatte is high and bold, free fWnn dangers, and destitute of harbors,*' and is lined with a majestic wall 'of mountains composed of slate and graywacke. They are covered with forests, and afford successions of noble views, sometimes of amphithe- atrical coves, sometimes of distant vistas of blue peaks up the long gorges of the rivers. "). ** How can it be that men inhabit this harsh, arid, rough, almost hateftil country, which extends from Cape Chatte to the Gasp^J Basin ? One can scarcely imagine. ' Tet, as you see, here and there appear parcels of tilled laud, houses scattered i^ong the banks, and little churches at Tarious points." \ " The peninsula of Gasp6, the land's end of Canada towards the E. , firom its geo- ; logical formation of shale and limestone, presenting their upturned edges tpwacd i thftses and dipping inland, forms long rangv<>s of b^tling cliffs running down to a ' lumrbw strip of beach, and affording no restiug-place even to the fishermen, except where they have been cut down by streams, and present little coves and bays open- ing back into deep glens, affording a view of great rolling wooded ridges that stand tank after rank beliind the great sea-cliff, though with many fine valleys between." 7 M. N. W. of Cape Hosier the settlement at Griffin* s Cove is passed; aud 5 M. farther on is Fox River (Cloridorme), a settlement of 500 persons, with one of the Isle-of-Jersey fishing-establi>hments, a large Catholic church, and a court-house. The cod and mackerel fisheries are followed in the ^adjacent waters, and large American fleets are often seen off the port. j^he grand highway from Quebec ends here, but a rugged road runs down '^o Gasp6 in 17 M. The inhabitants are nearly all French. 16 M. farther W. is the haven called Great Pond, 24 M. beyond which is Cape Magde- laine (red-and-white revolving light, visible 15 - 20 M. ) at the mouth of the Biver Magdelaine, the home of some of the wildest legends of this region. /^ " Where is the Canadian sailor, fkmiliar with this coast, who has not heard of the plaintive sounds and doleful cries uttered by the BraiUard de la Magdelaine ? Where would you find a native seaman who would consent to spend a few days by himself in this locality , wherein :i troubled spirit seeks to make known the torments it endures? Is it the soul of a shipwrecked mariner asking for Christian burial for its bonoi, or imploring the prayers of the church for its repose ? Is it the voice of the murderer condemned to expiate his crimes on the very spot which witnessed its commission ? . . . . For it is well known that Gaspd wreckers have not always contented themselves with robbery and pillage, but have sometimes sought conceal- ment and impunity by making away with victims, — convinced that the tomb is silent and reveals not its secrets." The Abbd Casgrain attributes these weird sounds to the fate of a priest who refused to christen a child who afterwards was lost by dying unbaptized. The conscience-stricken priest faded away to a skeleton, and the sound of bis moaning has ever since been heard off these dark shores. An- other legend tells that a terrible shipwreck occurred at this point, and that the only soul that reached the shore was a baby boy, who lay wailing on the beach through- out the stormy night. " Where La Magdelaine runs into the Gulf, horizontal layers of limestone, firetted i:way all around their base by the action of the tides and waves, assume the most .'antastic shapes, — here representing ruins of Gothic archi- tecture, there forming hollow caverns into whkh the surf rolling produces a moan- I ing sound, like an unquiet spirit seeking repose." The strange wailing which is I hrard at certain seasons along this shore is otherwise referred to the rush of the w wind throni^ the pine-trees Cape Chatte is 15 M. N. W. of Cape St. Anne, and sustains a white flashing light which is visible for 18 M. Gape Chatte was named in honor of the ofBcer who sent out the expedition of 1603, under Pontgrav^ and Lescarbot. His style was Eymard de Qhaste, Knight of Malta, Commander of Lormetan, Grand Master of the Order of St. Lasarus, and Governor of Dieppe. Somewhere in this broad reach of the river occurred the chivalrous naval battle between the English war-vessel Abigail and the French ship of Emery de Caen (son of Lord de la Motte). The Abigail was commanded by Capt. Kirke, and was sailing^ against Tadousac, when she was attacked (June, 1629) by De Caen. A running fight of several hours ensued, until a fortunate cannon-shot from the Abigail cut sway a mast on the French vessel and compelled her to surrender. The loss on each ship was considerable. The reach of the St. Lawrence next entered is about 86 M. wide, and on the N. shore is Point de Monts (see page 288). It is 83 M. from Cape Chatte to Matane, in which the steamer passes the hamlets of Dalibaire and St. Felicity. In 1688 the Sieur Riverin established a sedentary fish- / ery at Matane, devoted to the pursuit of codfish and whales. Sometimes as many as 50 whales were seen at one time from the shore. This branch * of the fisheries has now greatly declined. Matane is a village of 800 in- habitants, devoted to farming and lumbering, and is visited by Canadian citizens on account of the facilities for sea-bathing on the fine sandy heach. There is also good fishing for trout and salmon on the Matane , Kiver. The remarkable peaks called the (l^aps of Matane are to the S.W., / in the great Gasp6sian wilderness. In clear weather, when a few miles E. of Matane, and well out in the river, Mt. Commis may be seen, 40 M. distant, S. W. by W. J W., like an island on the remote horizon. The shore is now low, rocky, and wooded, and runs S. W. 22 M. to- Petit MetiSf which was populated with Scottish families by its seigneur. 4 M. from this point is the station of St. Octave^ on the Intercolonial Rail- way. M^tii is a little way W., and is occupied by 260 French Catholics 11* I 250 JlotOe 67, BIMOUSKt und Scotch Presbyterians. It has a long gorerament wharf ; and the people are engaged also in the pursuit of black whales, which are sought by schooners equipped with harpoons, lances, etc. N. of M^tis, across the river, is the great peninsula of Manicouagan, at the mouth of the rivers Manicouagan and Outarde, abounding in cascades. The steamship comes to off Father Point, where there is a lighthouse and telegraph-station (for news of the shipping), and a hamlet of 100 in- habitants. Here the outward-bound vessels discharge their pilots. Near this place are the hamlets of St. Luce and St. Donat, and at St. Flavie, 15 M. N. E., the Intercolonial Railway reaches the St. Lawrence (see page 70). A few miles S. E. is Mt. Camille, which is 2,086 ft. high. Father Point (Potnm the parish, and many hundreds of seals were discovered on the ice. The people gathered and went out to slay these strange visitors, but the ice suddenly broke adrift and was whirled away down the stream. There appeared no hope of escape for the 40 men on the outer floes, which were now ^ M- fW>m the shore. Their families and friends bade them an eternal farewell, and the village priests, standing at the water's edge, gave them final absolution ia preparation for the approaching catastrophe. But even while they were kneeling on the ice, a bold mariner launched a tiny skiff from the shore and crossed the widening belt of tumultuous waters, touched the crumbling edges of the floes, and, after many trips back and forth, succeeded in landing every one of the men upon the isle of Rosade. Thence they passed easily to the mainland, and afterwuds erected a cross on Rosade, as a token of their gratitude. Trois Pistoles (two good hotels) is a thriving village of 650 inhab- itants, situated inside of Basque Island (5 M. from the Rosades), and near valuable deposits of limestone. There are two Catholic churches here, whose construction involved a litigious contest which is still remembered in Lower Canada. The beauty of the marine scenery in this vicinity has induced several Quebec gentlemen to build summer cottages here. There is a well-founded tradition that in the year 1700 a traveller rode up to the bank of the then unsettled and unnamed river and asked the Norman fisherman, who was tending his nets near his rude hut, what he would charge to ferry him across. " Trois pistoles " (three ten-franc pieces), said the fisher. " What is the name of this river ? " asked the traveller. " It has no name ; it will be baptized at a later day." " Well, then," said the traveller, " name it 2Voj« Pistoles.^^ The river is now famous for its fine trout-fishing. " That portion of the St. Lawrence extending between the Saguenay River and Ooose Island is al>out 20 M. wide. The spring tides rise and fall a distance of 18 ft. The water is salt, but clear and cold, and the channel very deep. Here may be seen abundantly the black seal, the white porpoise, and the black whale." The white porpoise yields an oil of the best quality , and its skin makes good leather. 252 nouuey. KAMOURASKA. M'! The Onlf-Portt steamship does not stop between Father Point and QnebeCf bat the villages described in this itinerary may be visited fVom Quebec; those on the S. shore by railway, and St PtrnVs Bay, Murray Bay, Riviire da Loap, and Kimouski by river-steamers. The N. shore finom Gape Tourmente to the Saguenay is described in Ronte 72. The vessel steams np by Green Island, which is 6 - 7 M. long, and shel- ters the large manafacturing village of Isle Verte, whence fine butter is sent to Quebec. On the r. is Bed Island, with its tall stone lighthonse, off which is a lightship. Caoonna and Riviere du Loup (see Ronte 72) aie next passed, on the 1., and the vessel runs W. with the three steep islets called the Brandy Pott (Pots-it-feau^e^e) on the r. The S. islet bears a fixed light; the N. islet is 150 ft. high, of vesiculated conglomerate in which almond-shaped bits of quartz are imbedded. In war-time merchant- ships wait off the Brandy Pots for their convoying frigates. N. of these islets is Hare Island, which is about 10 M. long, and has extensive salt marshes, on which herds of cattle are kept. On the 1. are now seen the five remarkabl^ islets called The Pilgrims, about li M. from the S. shore and 4i M. in aggregate length. The Long Pilgrim is 800 ft. high and par- tially wooded, and is marked by a lighthouse, 180 ft. above the river. The Kamouraska Islands are 6 M. farther W., and over them is seen the pretty village of Kamouraska {Albion Hotel), with its great Church of St. Loais and Congregational Convent. The river-water at this point is as salt as the sea, and the village was the chief summer resort on the St. Lawrence before Cacouna arose. " Who does not know Kamouraska? Who does not know that it is a oharmlng vUlage, bright and picturesque, bathing its feet in the crystal of the waters of the riTer like a naiad, and coquettisniy yiewing the reflections of its two long ranges of white houses, .... so near the river that fh)m all the windows the great waves may be contemplated and their grand voices heard ? On all sides, except towards the S., the horison extends as flir as the eye can reach, and is only bounded by the vast blue curtidn of the Laurentides. At the N. E. the eye rests on a group of verdant isles, like a handful of emeralds dropped by the angel of the sea. .... These isles are the ftvorite resort of the strangers who visit Kamouraska. There they fish, or bathe, or seek other amusements. Le pique-nigue is much in vogue there, and the truest joys are felt." St. Paschal (700 inhabitants) is 5 M. from Kamouraska, on the Grand Trunk Railway. " Bel endroit, Saint-Paschal, par sa croupe onduleuse, Ses coUteaux, sed yallons, sa route sinueuse ! C'est la Suisse ou I'Auvergne avec leurs gals chalets, Leurs monts, leurs pris en pente et leurs jardins coquets." Beyond Kamouraska the steamer passes Cape Diable, and on the N. shore, 22 M. distant, are the bold mountains about Murray Bay (see Route 72). On the level plains to the S. is seen the tall Church of St. Denis, with its attendant village; and beyond Point Orignaux is the vil- lage of lUviire Quelle, famous for its porpoise-fisheries. Near this point is the quaint Casgrain manor-house, now over a century old. This parish is named for Madam Honel, wife of ComptrolIer>Qeneral Honel, who was eaptuxed hen by Indians in the 17th century. Near the beaeh is a rock which ST. ANNE DE LA POOATlfolE. Rovit 07. 253 Point aad visited firom fay, Murray he N. shore J2. ng, and shel- ine butter is i;hthonse, off Route 72) are 9 steep islets S. islet bears iglomerate in ne merchant- . N. of these Bxtensive salt now seen the n the S. shore high and par- ove the river, m is seen the ■at Church of ;his point is as )rt on the St. it is a ehanning le waters of the long ranges of teat waves may „ towards the S., by the vast blue )f Terdant isles, tese isles are the f fish, or bathe, ), and the truest le Grand Trunk luets." and on the N. [rray Bay (see Church of St. laux is the vil- fear this point Leral Houel, who L is a rock which bears the pldn Impms of thr mow-sLoes, and fbraierlr had the marks of boman feet and hands. In 1(00 the piiest of Kiviire Quelle led his parivbionen, and drove back the New-Englanden of Sir William PfaJpps's fleet. Back among the hilli ai« the hamlets of St. Onisinu and St. Faeome. 8t. Anne de la Fooatidre (two hotels) is a large and prosperous town, 72 M. below Quebec, with 8,000 inhabitants, a weekly paper {La Gazette des Campagnet), and a convent. "Nature has given to St. Anne charm- ing shores, laden with foliage and with melody, ravishing points of view, and verdant thickets, fitted for places of meditation." St. Anne's CoUegt is a stately pile of buildings with pleasant surroundings and a sumptuous, chapel. It has 80 professors (ecclesiastics) and 230 students, and is main- tained in a high state of efficiency. The parks cover several acres, and the museum is well supplied. St. Anne's Agricultural School and Model- Farm is connected with the college, and has 5 professors (zootechny, rural law, etc.). The view from the dome of the college is of great extent and beauty. As the steamer passes St. Anne the frowning mass of Mt ffboulements is seen on the N. shore. A few miles beyond St. Anne the hamlet of St, Roch-de»-Aulna%es is passed, on the 1., and still farther to the W. is S<. Jean-Port-JoK, a pretty little village about which is laid the scene of De Gasp^'s popular romance, " Les Anciens Canadiens.'* The Isle aux Coudres is far away towards the N. shore. The course is laid in by the islet called the Stone Pillar ^ on which there is a lighthouse, and 1^ M. farther W. is the insulated rock of the Wood Pillar. The large and pros- perous village of L'Islet (1,000 inhabitants) is seen on the 1. Goose Island is passed on the r., and is connected with Crane Island {Vlsle aux Grues) by a long alluvial meadow, which produces rich hay, the total length being 11 M. Fine sporting is enjoyed here in the spring and autumn, when great flocks of snipe, plover, and wild geese visit these shores for a breeding-ploce. There is a settlement of about 150 persons on Crane Island, whence are obtained noble views of Cape Tourmente. During the French regime these islands {Les Isles de Ste. 'Marguerite) were erected into a seigniory and granted to an officer of France. He built a massive stone house on Crane Island, and was afterwards kept there, in rigorous captivity, by Biadame de Oranville. She claimed that she was his sister, and that he was insane ; but this report was doubted by the people of the S. shore, and the Island was regarded with dread. She kept him in close durance for many years, until at last he died. Beyond the S. shore village of Cap St. Ignace (400 inhabitants) the steamer passes St. Thomas, the capital of Montmagny County. This town has 1,650 inhabitants, and carries on a large local trade. The College Montmagny is located here, and there is also a convent and a large and conspicuous church. The broad white band of a cascade is seen at the foot of the cove, where the Riviere du Sud falls 80 ft. On the r., beyond St. Thomas, is seen a cluster of picturesque islets, over which the massive Cape Tourmente frowns. 254 Route er. GBOSSE ISLE. i > "At length they spy hoge TouniMnte, ralI«n4noirad, Bathe hia bald forehet^ in a passing cloud ; The Titan of ttie lofty capes that gleam In long succession down the mighty stream ; When, lo ! Orleans emerges to the sight, And woods and meadows float in liquid light ; Rude Nature doffs her savage mountain (&ess, And all her sternness melts to loveliness. On either hand stretch fields of richest green, With glittering village spires and groves between^ And snow-white cots adorn the fertile plain." OrOBse Isle formerly appertained to the Ursulines, and is 2^ M. long. On its graywacke ledges is the great Quarantine of Canada, where emi- grant-ships are detained until thoroughly inspected and purified. The island is a vast tomb, so many have been the emigrants who have reached these shores only to die, poisoned in the filthy and crowded ships, poorly fed and rarely ministered unto. The Quarantine-station is occupied by medical and police forces, and is under a rigid code of rules. The next town is Berthier^ an ancient French parish of 400 inhabitants, W. of which is Bellechasse Island, composed of high, steep, and bare gray- wacke rocks. On the N. are Reaux Island (150 ft. high) and Madame Island, both of which are covered with trees. St. Valier is beyond Belle- chasse, and is a place of 200 inhabitants, near which large deposits of bog iron-ore have been found. The Isle of Orleans (see Route 71) is now approached, on the r., and over it is seen tbe peak of Mt. St. Anne. Nearly opposite St. John (on the Orleans shore) is St. Michel, a lumber- working town of 700 inhabitants, in whose spacious church are some paintings for which a high value Js claimed: St. Clara, by Murillo{f) ; St. Jerome, Boucher ; the Crucifixion, Romanelli ; the Death of the Vir- gin, Gouty ; St. Bruno, Philippe de Champagne ; the Flagellation, Chally. 6 M. beyond St. Michel is Beaumont, a village of 600 inhabitants, oppo- site Patrick's Hole, on the Orleans shore. The settlements now grow thicker on either shore, and in about 6 M. the steamship passes the W. end of the island of Orleans, and opens the grandest ** view on the route. On the r. is the majestic Montmorenci Fall, on the 1. the rugged heights of Point Levi and St. Joseph, and in front the stately cliffs of Quebec, crowned with batteries, and flowering into spires. is 2i M. long, ia, where emi- purified. The o have reached id ships, poorly is occupied by s. WO inhabitants, , and bare gray- i) and Madame is beyond Belle- deposits of bog oute 71) is now f Mt. St. Anne. ichel, a lumber- hurch are some by MuriUo (f ) ; eath of the Vir- jellation, Chally. |habitants, oppo- lents now grow ip passes the W. lew on the route, rugged heights iliflfs of Quebec, QUEBEC. 1 BasiUcOf )^^*^* 2 Gn^iean^ L- \A, 3 Wtde^an C'kurck K^^* 4 Byistfftfrian " E.4, 7 Si. Sam'euf:.::.....'..Pi2, ^Hf.Bvch. :: C2. 9 NofivDamrdgs VitioijTs.,... F.^. H Sentuuuy^ .... £•3. 12 LamlUnimmlf, E3, ^UrHfiUns fi, R't. 15 ^J&*«r-1— - - D.3. M$ (Jm^if^idkad...' C.2. 17 (rmmdlht^itL B.2. K Muriiui. ,* -,-. -Cil. ^ Mfirrin^ f'«lf*te^ K^» 21 CmrtJItvisfi. E."!. 22 Kent House/ E»4'. nmghSt^M «.i. 2\ timnmrs (mnffft- ...J5.4:. 25 (iitlomlhtur . -.F.3. 26 ChamfJain Miuh:t E4, 21 Jnil B.;>. '28 ^eUvs Mfw-rnenlV^* l^Atmrifan (msulitU - -Ed. IfyStJvUsGaU Ill3. 31i*./j^«M. .-- Ri. 22 hi.scvii".. -B.E4. 23 /^». QUEBEC. 1 Busiluii^ £■'•(• 2 Qtifflican^ i' F»4. 3 WitUtfMi Chutrht K«V. 4 hviifUTian - E.4, 8 S^.RocXl...^! d2. y^eitr*. F.4. H /^^^nSAuD^ftf.^^ , E.3. H SaniMijr ...^ lL3t, 12 Lmnllbmmmif.. E3r B/A^/^/^imi^ :E3. H/i&«»^W .:. Rl. 15^JWfc«r.l. DA Itt (Jiyn^tOmd...' C2. 17 (tmtnd Bufil4iL Bw2. K Mniiw^. -* -,....CiL f^ Mnrrn f^lUige.: Ei3« 30/M««»fjfiUv K3. 21 GmrfBmsfi. .E*4f. 22 KuUHbuso JS*4'* nm^hifehM.. Jfi.4. 24 (tmnut^ Oatdav. ...JU A 25 GishnnHmgc F.3. 26 ChtimiJlmn Muhct R4. 21 tA/*/ ».•>. '28 }MMsMnmmenl.-VL^ TAAmmMn OvstiltiU . £3. ^St.J0hrts(^atr n3. 3l4*./«i.» -- Dtf. 32 A).;**^ -• . j:.e4. 7^ H0p» — « ..K.3. 34 FaJUuta..." T2.3. UStL0ui$UkU E.4. 3ttDkyMi»^ni«r»/aZ £l/^s D.4. 7nY,M,C.A. .B3. 38 i&rU ggfe. PA QUEBEC. Eoute 68, 255 68. Qnebea Arrival. — If the tnyeller has much baggaoe, it b heat to take a eaniage or the hotel omnibus to the Upper Town. The cnliehe is not adapted for carrying lug- gage. Hotels. — The * St. Louis Hotel is a large house near the Dufferin Terrace* kept by Willis Russell, an American gentleman. It accommodates 500 guests, and charges $ 2.50-3.50 a day. The Russell House is a large modem hotel, near the St. Louis, and under the same management. Its terms are lower than those of the St. Louis. The Albion Hotel is on Palace St., and charges $2.50 a day. Uenchey's Hotel (on St. Anne St., opposite the Anglican Cathedral) is quiet and moderate, for gentlemen travelling en gargon. The Mountain-Hill House, on Mountain-Hill St., and Blanchard's Hotel, in the Lower Town, opposite Notre Dame des Yictoires, are jecond-class houses, charging about $ 1.50 a day. There are several good boarding-bouses in the Upper Town, among which are those of the Misses Leonard, 3 St. ^uis St. ; Mrs. McDonell, 12 St. Louis St ; Miss Lane, 44 St. Anne St. ; Mrs. Boyce, 1 Garden St. Comfortable quarters may be ob- tained at these houses for about $ 10 a week. Carriages in every variety may l>e procured at the livery-stables, and large numbers of them are kept at the stands near the St. Louis Hotel, in front of the Ca- thedral, and beyond St. John's Qate. The carriages in the Lower Town are less ele- gant and much less expensive than those within the walls. The rates for excursions in the suburbs in summer are from $3 to $4 for 1-8 persons (to Montmorenci Falls, Lorette, Cap Rouge, etc.). During the autumn the rates are reduced. The eo/^cAe-drivers of the Lower Town usually demand $2 for carrying 1-2 persons to the outer suburban resorts. The caliche is a singular and usually very shabby- looking vehicle, perched on two high wheels, with the driver sitting on a narrow ledge in front. It 'i drawn by a homely but hardy little horse, and is usually driven by a French Canadian, who urges the horse forward by the sharp dissyUabio cry, "JMarcAe-rfonc."' Horse-Cars run between St. Ours, St. Sauveur, and the Ghamplain Market, every 15 minutes, traversing St. Joseph, St. Paul, and St. Peter Sts. The fare is 5c. Readlns-Booms. — The elegant library of the Que1)eo Literary and His- torical Society (in Morrin College) is courteously opened to the visits of strangers. The Library of Parliament is aU«o accessible, and is finely arranged. The Institut Canadien is at 67 Fabrique St. : and the T. M. C. Association Hall is a splendid building, erected in 1879-80, on St. John St., just outside the gate. Pogt-Offioe at tbe corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. According to the new rules of the Canadian postal service, stamps are not sold at the post-offices, but are kept on sale by the booksellers. The most attractive shops are on Fabrique and St. John Sts., and in the vicinity of the French Cathedral, or Basilica. BaUivays. — The Grand Trunk Railway has its terminal station at Point Levi, 817 M. from Portland, 425 M. from Boston, and 586 M. ftom New York. Passengers take the Grand Trunk ferry-steamer near the Champlain Market. The North Shore Railway runs flrom Quebec to Montreal and Ottawa, along the N. shore of the St. Lawrence. The Quebec and Lake St. John Railway runs to St. Raymond, a hand- some French village of 1,600 inhabitants, 42 M. distant, and is being prolonged to Lake St. John. Stages run from its station of St. Ambroise to Indian Lorette and from Yaleartier Station to Yalcartier. Steamships. — The steamships of the Allan line leave Quebec for Lough Foyle and Liverpooiard Glasgow every Saturday, during the season of summer-navigation. The Dominion Line also sends steamships weekly to Liverpool. The vessels of the Quebec S. S. Co. leave every week for Father Point, 176 M. ; M^tis,207; Qaspe, 443 ; Perc^, 472 ; Summerside, 710 : Charlottetown, 784 ; and Pictou, 82d. Tbe Sc. Lawrance S N. Co. runs to Bay St. Paul, 55 M. ; Eboulement, 66 ; Murray Bay, 82; Riviere du Loup, 112; Tadousac, 134; L'Anse St. Jean, 166; Ha! Ha! Bay, 207 ; Chicoutimi, 235. Smaller boats run to Pointe aux Trembles, 21 ^ Les Ecu- reuils, 27 ; Platon and Portneuf, 83 ; Deschambault, 45 ; Grondines, 48 ; and St. Anne de la Perade, 68 ; also to St. Lambert, 9 ; and St. Jean, 17 ; also, during the pilgrimage season, to St. Anne de Beaupr^. Ferry-l>oats ran to Point Levi several tUuesan hour : and to the Isle of Orleans. 256 RauU 68. QUEBEC. Quebec, "the Gibraltar of America,*' and the second city in the Do- minion of Canada, is situated on a rocky promontory at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers, 180 M. from Montreal, and over 400 M. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It has about 76,000 inhabitants, with 6 banks, 6 Masonic lodges, and numerous newspapers in the French and the English languages. The chief business of the city is in the hand- \Jing and exportation of lumber, of which $5-7,000,000 worth is sent away annually. There are long lines of coves along the St. Lawrence shore, above the city, arranged for the reception and protection of the vast rafts which come down from the northern forests. A very consid- erable export trade in grain is also done here, and the various supplies of the populous counties to the N. and E. are drawn from this point. , Ship-building is a leading industry, and many vessels of the largest size have been launched from the shipyards on the St. Charles ; but the business has fallen off verj' considerably of late. Of Jate years several important manufactories have been established in the Lower Town, and the city is expected to derive great benefit from the convergence here of several lines of failway, connecting with the transatlantic steamships, and making it a depot of immigration and of freighting. The introduction of an abun- dant and powerful water supply from Lake St. Charles and the establish- ment of a fire-brigade and alarm-telegraph have preserved the city, during late years, from a recurrence of the terrible fires with which it was for- merl}^ scourged. A second main was laid iu 1883. Quebec is built nearly in the form of a triangle, bounded by the two rivers and the Plains of Abraham, and is divided into the Upper Town and Lower Town, the former standing on an enwalied and strongly forti- fied bluff 350 ft. high, while the latter is built on the contracted strands between the cliffs and the rivers. The streets are narrow, crookv , and often very steep, and the houses are generally built of cut stone, in a style of severe simplicity. It is the most quaint, picturesque, and mediseval- looking city in America, and is surrounded by beautiful suburbs. " Take mountain and plain, sinuous river, and broad, tranquil watera, stately ship and tiny boat, gentle hill and shady valley, bold headland and rich, fruitful fields, frowning battlement and cheerful villa, glittering dome and rural spire, flow- ery garden and sombre forest, — group them all into the choicest picture of ideal beauty your fancy can create, arch it over with a cloudless sky, light it up with a radiant sun, and lest the sheen should be too dazzling, hang a veil of lighted haze over all, to soften the lines and perfect the repose, — you will then have seen Quebec on this September morning." (EuoT Warburton.) *' Quebec recalls Angouleme to my mind : in the tipper city, stairways, narrow streets, ancient houses on the verge of the clifT; in the lower city, the new fortunes, commerce, workmen ; — in both, many shops and much activity." (M. Sand ) " The scenic beauty of Quebec has been the theme of general eulogy. The majestic appearance of Cape Diamond and the fortiftcations, — the cupolas and minarets, like those of an Eastern city, blazing and sparkling in the sun, — the loveliness of the panorama, — the noble basin, like a sheet of purest silver, in which might ride with safety a hundred sail of the line, — the graceful meandering of the river St. Charle!<, — the numerous village spires on either side of the St. Lawrence, — the fertile fields dotted with innumerable cottages, the abodes of a rich and moral peasantry, — the distant Falls of Montmorenci , — the park-like scenery of Point Levi, — the beauteous Isle of Orleans, —and more distant still, the fiowning Gape Tourmcnte, and the lofty QUEBEC. ItmUe 68^ 257 heDo- snce of ad over bitants, French e hand- is sent iwrence 1 of the consid- suppliea is point. rgest size j business mpoTtant ae city is af several td making I an abun- establish- ity, during t was for- >y the two jper Town >ngly forti- [ed strands )kv , and I, in a style mediSBval- bs. Ltevf, stately Hch, fruitful Ll eplre, flow- Iture of ideal lit up ■with a I lighted haze I Been Quebec Lays, narrow tew fortunes, r. Sand ) ] The majestic Linarets, like £liness of the Ight ride with It St. Charles, *> fertile fields riaiitry,-tbe fehe beauteous I and the lofty range of pnrple mmmtalna of the most pictnresqne formi which bound the prospect, unite to form a coup d^ail, which, without exa^ration, is scarcely to be surpassed in any part of the world.'' (HAWKras. ) " I rubbed my eyes to be sure that I was in the nineteenth century, and was not entering one of those portals which sometimes adorn the frontispiece of old black> letter volumes. I thought it would be a good place to read Froissart's Chronicles. It was such a reminiscence of the Middle Ages as Scott's novels. " Too much has not been said about the scenery of Quebec. The fortifications of Cape Diamond are omnipresent. You travel 10, 20, 80 M. up or down the river's banks, you ramble 15 M- among the hills on either side, and then, when you have long since forgotten them, perchance slept on tliem by the way, at a turn of the road or of your body, there they are still, with their geometry against the sky. . . .'. No wonder if Jaques Cartier's pilot exclaimed in Norman-Freucb, Que bee ! ( ' What a peak ! ') when he saw this cape, as some suppose. Every modern traveller invol- untarily uses a similar expression The view from Cape Diamond has been compared by European travellers with the most remarkable views of a similar kind, in Europe, such as ftoxa. Edinburgh Castle, Gibraltar, Cintra, and others, and pre- ferred by many. A main peculiarity in this, compared with other views which I have beheld, is that it is from the ramparts of a fortified city, and not from a soli« tary and majestic river cape alone that this view is obtained I still remember the harbor far beneath me, sparkling like silver in the sun, — the answering head- lands of Point Levi on the S. E. , — the frowning Cape Tourmente abruptly bounding the seaward view tax in the N. E. , — the villages of Lorette and Charlesbourg on the N., — and forther W. the distant Yal Cartier, sparkling with white cottages, hardly removed by distance through the clear air, — not to mention a few bjue mountains along the horizon in that direction. You look out from the ramparts of the citadel beyond the fh>ntier8 of civilization. Yonder small group of hi'ls, according to the guide-book, forms ' the portal of the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson's Bay.' " (Thureau.) '* There is no city in America more fiunous in the annals of history than Quebec, and few on the continent of Europe more picturesquely situated. Whilst the sur- rounding scenery reminds one of tlie unrivalled views of the Bosphorus, the airy.site of the citadel and town calls to mind Innspruck and Edinburgh. Quebec may be best described by supposing that an ancient Norman fortress of two centuries ago had been encased in ambert transported by magic to Canada, and placed on the summit of Cape Diamond. ' ' *' Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A mili- tary town, containing about 20,000 inhabitants ; most compactly and permanently built, — stone its sole material ; environed, as to its most important parts, by walLi and gates, and defended by numerous heav3>^ cannon ; . . . . founded upon a rocit, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country ; 3-400 miles from the ocean, in the midst of a great continent, and yet'^displaying fleets of foreign mer- chantmen in its fine, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle of a crowded sea- port ; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down almost mountainous declivities ; situated in the latitude of the finest parts of Europe, exhibiting in its environs the beauty of a European capital, and yet in winter smarting with the cold of Siberia ; governed by a people of different language and habits firom the mass of the population, opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes, and in the enjoyment of every privilege, civil and religious : such are the prominent features which strike a stranger in the city of Quebec. A seat of ancient Dominion, — now hoar^ with the lapse of more than two centuries, — formerly the seat of a French empire in the west, — lost and won by the blood of gallant armies, and of illustrious commanders, — throned on a rock, and defended by all the proud defiance of war ! Who could approach such a city without emotion \ Who in Canada has not longed to cast his eyes on the water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec." (PaoF. SiLLiMAN ; in 1820.) " Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a com- mercial city toge'^her, built upon the summit of a rock like the nest of an eagle, while her vessels >e everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean ; an American city inhabited by French colonists, governed by England, and garrisoned by Scotch regiments ; a city of the Middle Ar'^ by most of its ancient institutions, while it is subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional government ; a European city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and still close by the remnants of the Indian tribes and the barren mts. of the North ; a city with about the same 258 Jtoute 68. QUEBEC. i I K' latitude as Paria, while raccetsirely combining tlie torrid climate of wmthemref^ons with the Beverities of an hyperborean winter ; a city at the same time Catholic and Protestant, where the labors of our (French) missions are still uninterrupted along- side of the undertakings of the Bible Society, and where the Jesuits, driven out of our own country, And refuge under the ffgis of British Puritanism." (X. Mabmier's Lettres sur fAmirique, 1860.) " Leaving the citadel we are once more in the European Middle Ages. Gates aud posterns, cranky steps that le»4 up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp French roofs of burnished tin, like those of Li^ge ; processions of the Host ; altars decked with flowers ; statues of the Virgin ; sabots ; blouses ; and the scarlet of the British lines- man, — all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are graced with many a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-east, Yankee State of Maine. It is not far from New England to Old France There has been no dying out of the race among the French Canadians. They number twenty times the thousands that they did 100 years ago. The American soil has left their physical type, re- ligion, language, and laws absolutely untouched. They herd together in their rambling villages, dance to the fiddle after mass on Sundays, — as gayly as once did tht'r Norman sires, — and keep up the fleur-de-lys and the memory of Montcalm. Morti French than the French are the Lower Canada habitans. The pulse-beat of the continent finds no echo here." (SjB Charles Dilke.) "Curious old Quebec! of all the cities of the continent of America the mobt quaint! It is a peak thickly populated ! a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, and at the same tijie smoothed off to hold firmly on its summit the houses and caf^tles, although according to the ordinary laws of matter they ought to fall off Uke a bur- den placed on a camel's back without a fastening. Yet the {houses and castles hold there as if ^hey were nailed down. At the foot of the rock some feet of land have been reclaimed from the river, and that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Que- bec is a dried shred of the Middle Ages, hung high up near the North Pole, far from the beaten paths of the European tourists, .... a curiosity without parallel on this side of the ocean. We traversed each street as we would have turned the leaves of a book of engravings, containing a new painting on each page The local- ity ought to be scrupulously preserved antique. Let modern progress be carried elsewhere ! When Quebec has taken the pains to go aud perch herself away up near Hudson's Bay, it would be cruel and unfitting to dare to harass her with new ideas, and to speak of doing away with the narrow and tortuous streets that charm all travellers, in order to seek conformity with the fantastic ideas of comfort in TOgue in the 19th century." (Henrt Ward Beecher.) " On I'a dit, Quebec est un promontoire, c'est avant tout une forteresse remarqua^ ble. La citadelle s'^l^ve au-dessus de la ville et mire dans les eaux du fieuve ses cn^neaux brants. Le voyageur s'^tonne, apr^s avoir admire les bords verdoyants et fieuris du Saint-Ijaurent, les forSts aux puissantes ramures pleines de mysteres et d'ombre, les riantes valines plemes de bruits et de rayons, de rencontrer tout & coup cette ville qui semble venir d'Europe et qui serait moins strange sur les .bords du Bhin aux dramatiques legendes. Mais Quebec n'est pas une ville ou VC tranger vienne se distrcire et chercher d'oubli un the&tre k grands luxes, & grands spectacles C'est peut-Stre la seule ville du monde ou les gens aient droit de se plaindre et ou ils ne se plaignent pas. J'ai ccrit que Quebec est une forteresse remarquable; elle €lhfe son front superbe et se cambre avec fiei t^ dans sa robe de pierre. £lle a conserve un air des temps chevaleresques, elle a soutenu dcs si. ges, elle a re^u sou baptSme du fi»u. En longeant ces vieux murs, en admirant cette forteresse elevce comme un nid d'aigle sur un roc sourcilleux, on se croirait dans une ville du moyen &ge, au temps des factions et des guerres civiles, une de ces villes accoutumi es aux bruits des armes, aux fanfares et aux hymnes guerriers, mais tout est silencieux dans la nuit sereine, et vous n'entendez meme pas le pace cadence d'une sentinelle. Dans cette ville et aux alentours, que d'cvi'nements ont I'te accompli ! Quelle lutte pleine de poesie heroique ! Que de vicissitudes ! et quel courage ! En quelque lieu que vous alliez, k la basse-viile, sur le chemin Saint-Louis ou Sainte-Foye, sur les rives de la riviere Saint-Charles, tout respire un parfum historique, tout parle a vos yeux, tout a une voix qui exprime quelque chose de grand et de triste, et les pierres mimes sent autour de vous comme lea fimtdmes qui reflechissent le passe." II ! i t: I I QUEBEC. HouU 68. 259 ceglom Lio and along- out of rmier's te8 aud ;h rooft ed with sh lineB- th many (f Maine, i^ing out kousands type, re- in tbeir once did [ontcalm. eat of the the most oned, and id caf ties, ke a bur- ustles hold land haTB wn. Que- e, far from parallel on I the leaves The local- be carried Jf away «P [r with new ;hat charm comfort in The Dnfferin Terrace is on the riverward edge of the Upper Town, and begins on the buttresses and platform formerly occupied by the Chateau of St. Louis, which was built by Champlain in 1620, and extends for a quarter of a mile to the base of the citadel, making it the longest prome- nade of the sort in the world. It was opened on June 10, 1879, by the Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise, in the presence of 10,000 people. The old Chateau was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a fortress, prison, and governor's palace, and it stood until 1834, when it was ruined by lire. The terrace is 182 ft. above the river, and commands a * view of surpassing beauty. Immediately below ai'e the sinuous streets of the Lower Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream. On one side are the lofty fortified bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. Charles River winds away down its peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport stretch off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while be- yond are seen the farms of L'Ange Gardien, extending cowards the heights of St. Fereol. Vessels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basin and the river, and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. Beyond, and over all, are the bold peaks of the Lau- rentian range, with Cape Tourmente towering over the river. The Terrace is the favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents an attractive scene in the late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. On the site of the Old Chateau erected in 1779 for the British Governors a great modern hotel is in process of construction. " There is not in the world a nobler outlook than that from the Terrace at Que- bec. You stand upon a rock overhanging city and river, and look down upon the guard-shipd' masts. Acre upon acre of timber comes tloutiug down the stream above the city, the Canadik^n boat-songs just reaching you upon the heights ; and beneath you are fleets of great ships, English, German, French, and Dutch, embark- ing the timber from the Heating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere to be seen." (Sib Charles Dilke.) " On a summer evening, when the Terrace is covered with loungers, and when Point Levi is sprinkled with lights and tlie Lower Town has illuminated its narrow streets and its long dormer-windows, while the lively murmur of business is ascend- ing and the eye can discern the great shadows of the ships beating into port, the scene is one of marvellous animation. It is then, above all, that one is struck with the resemblance between Quebec and the European cities ; it might be called a city of France or Italy transplanted ; the physiognomy is the same, and daylight ig needed to mark the alteration of features produced by the passage to America." " At a later era, when, under the protection of the French kings, the Provinces had acc^uired the rudiments of military strength and power, the Castle of St. Louis was remarkable as having been the site whence the French governors exercised an immense sovereignty, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of that noble river, its magnificent lakes, and down the course of the Mississippi to its outlet below New Orleans. The banner which first streamed from the battlements of Quebec was displayed from a chain of forts which protected the settlements throughout this vast extent of country, keeping the English Colonies in constant alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations. During this period the coun- cil chamber of the castle was the scene of many a midnight vigil, many a long delib- eration and deep-laid project, to free the continent from the intrusion of the ancient rival of France, and assert throughout the supremacy of the Gallic lily. At another period, subsequent to the surrender of Quebec to the British arms, and until the recognition of the independence of the United States, the extent of empire of which the Castle of Quebec was the principal seat comprehended the whole American con- tinent north of Mexico." (Hawkins.) 260 Route 68, QUEBEC. The Anglioan Oathednl oecnpies the site of the ancient Recollet Cot^ vent and gardens, and is a plain and massive building, 136 ft. long, with a spire 152 ft. high. It was built by the British government in 1803 - 4, and received its snperb communion-service, altar-cloths, and books as a present from King George III. There is a chime of 8 bells in the tower, which makes pleasant music on Sundays; and the windows are of rich stained glass. The interior is plain and the roof is supported on Corinthian pillars and pilasters, while over the chancel hang the old Crimean colors of the 69th Begiment of the British army. Under the altar lie the remains of Charles Lennox, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Aubigny, and Gov- ernor-General of Canada, who died of hydrophobia in 1819. There are numerous mural monuments in the cathedral, and in the chancel are the memorials to the early Anglican Bishops of Quebec, Jacob Mountain and Charles James Stewart. The former consists of a bust of the Bishop, alongside of which is a statue of Religion, both in relief, in white marble, on a background of black marble. Dr. Mountain was in the presence of King George, when he expressed a doubt as to whom he should appoint as bishop of the new See of Quebec. Said the doctor, "If your Majestj' had faith, there would be no diflBculty." "How so?" said the king. Mountain answered, "If you had faith, you would say to this Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would be done." It was. ^ Between the cathedral and the Dufferin Terrace is a pretty little park called the Place d^Armes, beyond which are the crumbling ruins of the court-house, destroyed by fire in 1871. Beyond the court-house (on St Louis St.) is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are the old-time structures of the St. Louis Hotel and the ancient Crown-Lands building, known as the Kent ffouscy from the fact that Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent (father of Queen Victoria), dwelt here during his long sojourn at Quebec. Oppo- site the St. Louis Hotel is a quaint little building (now used as a barber- shop), in which Montcalm held his last council of war. St. Louis St. runs out through the ramparts, traversing a quiet and solidly built quarter, and is prolonged beyond the walls as the (Srand AU^e, passing the magnifi- cent new Parliament Buildings. The * Market Square is near the centre of the Upper Town. The Jesuits* College has recently been torn down, and its place remains drearily empty. Markets are not now held on the Square, but outside St. John's Gate. " A few steps had brought them to the market-square in fiwnt of the cathedral, where a little belated traffic still lingered in the few old peasant-vromen hovering over baskets of puch fhiits and vegetables as had long been out of season in the States, and the housekeepers and servants cheapening these wares. A sentry moved mechanically up and down before the high portal of the Jesuit Barracks, over the arch of which were still the letters I. H. S. carved long ago on the keystone ; and the ancient edifice itself, with its yellow stucco front and its grated windows, had every right to be a monastery turned barracks in France or Italy. A row of quaint stone houses — inns and shops — formed the upper side of the square, while the modem buildings of the Rue Fabrique on the lower side might serve very well for QUEBEC. HouU 68. 261 Gon- , with 08-4, A as a tower, af rich inthian I colors •emains id Gov- lere are , are the ;ain and Bishop, marble, a Quebec. fficuUy." •aith, you , it would ittle park ins* of the le (on St structures >wn as the snt (father \c. Oppo- a barher- [is St. runs larter, and magnifi- le Jesuits' [ily empty, rate. lie cathedral, Ten hovering lason in ^^^ Vntry moved fks, over the krstone ; and lindows, had W of quaint te. while the fcery veU for that «how of improTemenl which deepens the sentiment of the neighboring antiquity and decay In Latin towns. As for the cathedral, which faced the convent firom across the square, it was as cold and torpid a bit of Renaissance as could be found in Rome itself. A red-coated soldier or two passed through the square : three or four neat little French policemen lounged about in blue uniforms and flaring havelocks; some walnut>faced, blue-eyed old citizens and peasants sat upon the thresholds of the row of old houses and gazed dreamily through the smoke of their pipes at the slight stir and glitter of shopping about the fine stores of the Rue Fabrique. An air of serene disoccupation pervaded the place, with which the drivers of the long rows of calashes and carriages in front of the cathedral did not discord. Whenever a stray American wandered into the square, there was a wild flight of these drivers towards him, and his person was lost to sight amidst their pantomime. They did not try to underbid each other, and they were perfectly good- humored. As soon as he had made his choice, the rejected multitude returned to their places on the curbstone, pursuing the successful aspirant with inscrutable jokes as he drove off, while the horses went on munching the contents of their leathern head-bags, and tossing them into the air to shake down the lurking grains of com." (HoWELLS^s A Chance Acquaintance.) The magnificent new Parliament and Departmental Buildings are on the Grand All^e, on high ground outside the St. Louis Gate, and were begun ii. 1878. The halls of the local Parliament were begun in 1882. The buildings are of gray stone, very large and massive, and present an impos- ing appearance when seen from the ramparts, or from the distant valley villages. It was at one time intended to have built the new Parliament House on the site of the Jesuits' College, a vast quadrangular pile, 224 by 200 ft. in area, founded in 1646, and demolished about five years ago, after a long period of desertion and dilapidation. The Jesuits' College was founded In 1637, one year before Harvard College, and performed a noble work in its day. It was suspended in 1759 by Qen. Murray, who quartered his troops here, and in 1809 the property reverted to the crown, on the death of the laat of the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings were used as barracks until the British armies evacuated Canada " From this seat of piety and learning issued those dauntless missionaries, who made the Gospel known over a space of 600 leagues, and preached the Christian faith from the St. Law. rence to the Mississippi. In this pious work many suflered death in the most cruel form ; all underwent danger and privation for a series of years, with a con- stancy and patience that must always command the wonder of the historian and the admiration of posterity." The * Basilica of Qneheo is on the E. side of the Market Square, and was known as the Cathedral of Notre Dame until 1874, when it was elevated by Pope Pius IX. to the rank of a basilica. It was founded in 1666 by Bishop Laval, and was destroyed by the bombardment from Wolfe's batteries in 1759. The present building dates from the era of the Conquest, and its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely. From its towers the Angelus bells sound at 6 o'clock in the morning and 6 in the evening. The interior is heavy, but not unpleasing, and accommodates 4,000 persons. The High Altar is well adorned, and there are several chapels in the aisles. The most notable pictures in the Basilica are, ** the Crucifixion, by Fan Dyck (" the Christ of the Cathedral"; the finest paint- ing in Canada), on the first pillar 1. of the altar; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, Carlo Maratti ; the Annunciation, Restout ; the Baptism of Christ, HaUi ; the Pentecost, Vignon ; Miracles of St. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels waiting 262 nattU 68. QUEBEC. on Christ, Rettout (in the choir); the Nativity, copy fVom Annibale Co- racci; Holy Family, Blanchard. The Biuilica occupies the iiite of the ancient church of Notre Dame de la Itecoa> Trance, built in 1()38 by Cham plain , in memory of the recovery of Canada by France. Within its walls are buried Diniiops Laval and Plesnis; Champlain, the heroic ex- plorvr, founder and flrst Governor of Quebec : and the Count do Frontenac, the fiery and chivalric Governor of Canada from 1688 to 1698. After his death hia heart vras enclosed in a leaden caslcet and nent to bis widow, in France, but the proud countess refuf>ed to receive it, saying that she would not have a dead heart, which, while living, had not been hers. The noble lady (" the marvellously beautiful Anne de la Grand-Trianon, sumamed The Divine*'} was the friend of Madame de S^vign6, and was alienated from Frontenac on account of his love-affair with the brilliant Yersaillaise, Madame de Montespan. Most of the valuable paintings in the Basilica, and elsewhere in Canada, were bought in France at the epoch of the Revolution of 1793, when the churches and convents had been pillaged of their treasures of art. Many of them were purchased from their captors, and sent to the secure shores of New France. Back of the Basilica, on Port Dauphin St., is the extensive palace of the Archbishop, surrounded bv quiet gardens. To the E. are the Parlia- ment Building and the Grand Battery. The * Seminary of Quebec adjoins the Cathedral on the N., and covers several acres with its piles of quaint and rambling buildings and quiet and sequestered gardens. It is divided into Le Grand Seiuinaire and Le Petit Seminaire, the former being devoted to Roman-Catholic theology and the education of priests. The Minor Seminary is for the study of litera- ture and science (for boys), and the course extends over nine years. Boarders pay $150 a year, exclusive of washing, music, and draw- ing. The students may be recognized in the streets by their peculiar uniform. The quadrangle, with its old and irregular buildings ; the spot- less neatness of the grounds ; the massive walls and picturesquely outlined groupings, will claim the interest of the visitor. " No such building could be seen anywhere save in Quebec, or in some ancient provincial town in Normandy. You ask for one of the gentlemen (priests), and you are introduced to his modest apartment, where you find him in his soutane, with all the polish, learning, and bonhommie of the nineteenth century." Visitors are con- ducted over the building in a courteous manner. The Seminary Cliapel has some fine paintings (beginning at the r. of the en- trance): the Saviour and the Samaritan Woman, Im Gren e; the Virgin attended by Angels, Dim; the Crucifixion, Monet; the Hermits of the Thebaid, OuiUot; the Vision of St. Jerome, D'HuUin ; the Ascension, Philippe de Champagne ; the Burial of Christ, Hutin ; (over the altar) the Flight into Kgypt, Vanlno ; above which is a picture of Angels, Lebrun; the Trance of St. Anthony, Parronl ef Avignon; the Day of Pentecost, P. de Champagne ; St. Peter freed from Prison, De la Fosse; The Baptism of Christ, HaU6; St. Jerome Writing, J. B. Champagne; Adoration of the Magi, Bonnieu. "The Chapel on the r. of the chief altar con- tains tlie relics of St. Clement ; that on the 1. the relics of St. Modestus." The Seminary of Quebec was founded in 1663 by M de Laval, who endowed it with all his great wealth. The first buildings were erected in 1666, and the present Semi- nary is composed of edifices constructed at different dates since that time. In 18(V) a large part of the quadrangle was burnt, but it has since been restored. In 1704 there were 64 teachers and students ; in 1810 there were 110 ; and there are now over 400 (exclusive of the Univert^ity students). " When we awalie its departed shades, they rise upon us from their graves, in strange romantic guise. Men steeped in antique learning, pale with the close breath of the cloister, here spent the noon niid evening of their lives, ruled savage hordes with a mild paternal sway, and Etnod QUEBEC. EwU 68. 263 le Car Recou- Prance. :olc ex- ac, the ath bis )ut the I heart, cautifui Madame ilr with ia, were hea and irchaMd ilace of Parlia- d covers id quiet 6 and Le logy and of litera- e years, id draw- peculiar the spot- outlined le ancient I), and you le, with all are con- of the en- attcndcd , Ouillot; hagne; the f,no; above ., Parrortl |Prl?on, Be \ampagne ; ] altar cou- h red it with fesent Seuil- Inl865 In 1704 now oviT bd phades, jpteepcd in . noon niiti and Etood wrene before the direat shapei of death. Men of courtly natares, heira to the pollah of a fkr-reaching ancestry, here with their dauntless hardihood put to shune the boldest sons of toil.'* The * Laval University is between the Seminary gardens and the ram- parts, and may be reached from St. Famille St. The main building is 280 ft. long and 5 stories high, is built of cut stone, and cost $ 225,000. The roof is a flat sanded platform, securely enrailed, where the students promenade and enjoy the grand ♦ view of the city, the river, and the Laurentian Mts. Vis- itors are admitted to the collections of the University on application to the janitor. The reception-rooms contain the great picture of the Madonna of Quebec, a portrait of Pius IX. , by Pasqualoni, and other paintings. The large hall of convocation has seats for 2,000, with galleries for ladies The chem- ical laboratory is a fire-proof chamber, modelled after that of King's Col- lege, I ondon; and the dissecting-room is spacious and well arranged. The *mmeral museum was prepared by the late Abb^ Haiiy, an eminent scientist, and contains specimens of the stones, ores, and minerals of Canada, with a rare and valuable collection of crystals. It fills a long series of apartments, from which the visitor is ushered into the ethnologi- cal and zoological cabinets. Here are a great number of Indian remains, implements, and weapons, and other Huron antiquities; with prepared specimens of Canadian animals and fish. The Library contains 70,000 volumes (about half of which are French), arranged in two spacious halls, from whose windows delightful views are obtained. The * Picture-GcU- lery has lately been opened to the public, and is the richest in Canada. The works are mostly copies from the old mast s, though there are sev- eral undoubted originals. It is by far the finest gallery N. of New York, and should be carefully studied. The visitor should also see the brilliant collection of Canadian birds; and the costly philosophical and medical apparatus, imported from Paris. The extensive dormitories occupy sub- stantial stone buildings near the University, over the gardens. The Seminary was founded in 1663 by Francois de Montmorenci Laval, first Bishop of Quebec, and has been the central power of the Catholic Church in this Province for over two centuries. The Laval University was founded in 1852, and has had the privileges of a Catholic University accorded to it by Pope Pius IX. The processes of study are modelled on those of the University of Louvain. The department of arts has 14 professors, the law has 6, divinity has 6, and medicine has 8. There are also 24 professors in the Minor Seminary. The Parliament Building is on the site of Champlain's fort and the old Episcopal Palace, and is an extensive but plain building, whose glory has departed since the decapitalization of Quebec. The Legislative Council of the Province meets in a pleasant hall, upholstered and carpeted in crim- son, with a very large throne, over which is a canopy surmounted by the arms of the United Kingdom. There are spacious galleries for visitors. The hall of the House of Assembly is on the front of the building, and is upholstered in green. Back of the speaker's chair is a line of Corinthian pilasters upholding a pediment on which are the Royal Arms. The *Li- 264 HouU 68. QUEBEC. hrary occnpies a lar^e and quiet apartment on the first floor, and is rich in French-Canadian literature. Such glory as was left after the decapitaliza- tion, hereinbefore referred to, was conclusively removed on the night of April 19, 1883, when the old Parliament Building (except part of its west wing) was destroyed by fire. Mountain-Hill St. descends by the place of the Prescott Gate, to the Lower Town, winding down the slope of the cliff. On the r., about ^ of the way down, are the * Champlain Steps, or Cote la Montagne, a steep, crowded, and picturesque stairway leading down to Notre Dame des Victoires (see page 271). Near the foot of the steps is a grating, over the place where the remains of Champlain were recently found, in the vault of an ancient chapel. The Cote la Montagne has reminded one author of Naples and Trieste, another of Venice and Trieste, and another of Malta. The new Fost-Offioe is a handsome stone building at the comer of Baade and Du Fort Sts. In its front wall is a figure of a dog, carved in the stone and gilded^ under which is the inscription : — (" I nm a dog gnawing a bone. While I gnaw I talce my repose. The time will come, though not yet, When I wiil bite him who now bitea me.") " Je snis un chien qui ronge I'os ; £n le rongeant je prend mon repos. Un temps vienara qui n'est pas vena Que je mordrais qui m'aura mordu." This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot by M. Pbilibert, who had Buffered wrong from him, but soon after the carved stone had been put into the front of Philibert's house, that gentleman was assassinated by an officer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian army, but was pursued by Philibert's brother, and was killed, at Pondi- cherry, after a severe conflict. The Post-Ofllce occupies the rite of the Grand Place of the early French town, on which encamped the Huron tribe, sheltered by the fort from the attacks of the piti- less Iroquois. Here afterwards lived the beautiful Miss Prentice, with whom Nelson fell in loTe, so that he had to be forced on board of his ship to get him away. *' How many changes would have ensued on the map of Europe ! how many new horizons in history, if Nelson had deserted the naval service of his country in 1782 ! Without doubt. Napoleon would have given law to the entire world. His supremacy on the sea would have consolidated his rule over the European continent ; and that because an amorous young naval offlcer was seized by a passion for a bewitching Canadian girl ! " Near this place the Duke of Clarence, then a subaltern of the fleet, but afterwards King William lY. of England, followed a young lady home in an un- seemly manner, and was caught by her father and very soundly horsewhipped. The * Ursnline Convent is entered from Garden St., and is a spacious pile of buildings, commenced in 16bd, and covering 7 acres with its gardens and offices. There are 40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and also to working in embroidery, painting, and fancy articles. The parlors and chapel may be visited by permission of the chaplain (whose office is adjacent); and in the hitter are some valuable paintings: * Christ at the Pharisee's House, by Philippe de Champagne ; Saints Nonus and Pelagius, Prudhamme ; the Saviour Preaching, P. de Champagne ; the Miraculous Draught of Fish, Le Dieu de Jouvenet ; Captives at Algiers, Reitoue ; St. QUEBEC. Jtcute 68. 265 ■ich \n taliza- ght of s west to the It I of it steep, me des ver the e vault author ither of f Buade he stone bitei mO who had been put id by an Indian Pondi- town, on f the pitl- )m Nelson ly. *'Hovr orizons in Without cy on the !it because Canadian fleet, but in an un- >ped. Peter, BpanUk School; and several others. In the shrines are relics of St. Clement Martyr, and other saints from the Roman catacombs. Within a grave made by a shell which burst in this chapel during the bombardment of 1759 is buried ** the High and Mighty Lord, Louis Joseph, Marquis of Montcalm," and over his remains is the inscription, "Honneur a Mont- calm ! Le destin en lui d^robant de la victoire Ta r^compens^ par une mort glorieuse." Montcalm's skull is carefully preserved under glass, and is shown as an object worthy of great veneration. V The first Superior of the Ursuline Convent was Mother Marie de I'Incamation, who was " revered as the St. Teresa of her time." She mastered the Huron and Algonquin languages, and her letters to France form one of the most valuable rec- ords of the early days of Canada. The convent was founded in 1639, when the first abbess landed in Quebec amid the salutes of the castle-batteries ; and the special work of the nuns was that of educating the Indian girls. The convent was burnt down in 1650, and again in 1686, when the Ursulines were sheltered by the HApital- i^res. The Archbishop has recently ordered that the term of profession, shall m for seven years, instead of for life. Morrin College occupies a massive stone building at the comer of St. Anne and Stanislas Sts., and is the only non-Episcopal Protestant col- lege in the Province. It was founded by Dr. Morrin, and has 5 professors, but has had but little success as an educational institution. The build- ing was erected by the Government in 1810, for a prison ; and occupied the site of an ancient fort of Champlain's era. It was used as a prison until the new Penitentiary was built, on the Plains of Abraham, and in the N. wing are the " sombre corridors that not long ago resounded with the steps of the jailers, and the narrow cells that are never enlivened by aray of light." The * Library of the Quebec Literary and Historical Society Is in the N. wing of Morrin College, and contains a rare collection of books re- lating to Canadian history and science, in the French and English lan- guages. This society is renowned for its valuable researches in the annals of the old St. Lawrence Provinces, and has published numerous volumes of records. It includes in its membership the leading literati of Eastern Canada. There is a small but interesting museum connected with the library-hall. St. Andrew^ a Churchy with its school and manse, occupy the triangle at the intersection of St. Anne and Stanislas Sts. It is a low, quaint build- ing, erected in 1809 on ground granted by Sir James Craig. Previously, from the time of the Conquest of Canada, the Scottish Presbyterians had worshipped in the Jesuits' College. The Wealeyan Church is a comforta- ble modem building, just below Morrin College; beyond which, on Dauphin St., is the chapel of the Congregationalists (Roman Catholic). At the corner of St. John and Palace Sts. (second story) is a statue of Wolfe, which is nearly a century old, and bears such a relation to (Quebec as does the Mannikin to Brussels. It was once stolen at night by some 12 \ 266 Moute 68. QUEBEC, roystering naval officers, and carried off to Barbadoes, whence it was re- turned many months after, enclosed in a coffin. The * Hdtel-Dien Convent and Hospital is the most extensive pile of buildings in Quebec, and is situated on Palace St. (r. side) and the Ram- part. E. of the long ranges of buildings (in which 650 sick persons can be accommodated) are pleasant and retired gardens. The convent-church is entered from Charlevoix St., and contains valuable pictures: the Nativity, by Stella; the Virgin and Child, Coypel; the Vision of St. Teresa, Mena- geot ; St. Bruno in Meditation, Le Stieur (called " the Raphael of France ") ; the * Praying Monk, by Zurbaran (undoubted); and fine copies of the Twelve Apostles, by Raphael^ and the Descent from the Cross, by Rubens (over the high altar). The Hotel Dieu was founded by the Dachesse d'Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Riche- lieu) in 1G39. In 1664 one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was built duric^ the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, completed it in 1762. There are 30-40 cloistered nuns of the order of the Hopitali^res, and the hospital is open freely to the sick and infirm poor of whatever sect, with attendance by the best doctors ^f the city. The siaging of the nuns during the Sunday services will interest the visitor. The most precious relic in the Hdtel-Dieu is a silver bust (in life size) of Br^beuf, in whose base is preserved the skull of that heroic martyr. Jean de Br^beuf, a Nor- man Jesuit of noble blood', arrived at Quebec with Champlain in 1633, and went to the Huron country the next year. Here he had frequent celestial visions, and labored successfully in the work of converting the nation. He often said: " Sentio me vehementer impelli ad tnoriendum proChristo " ; and his wish was gratified when his mission-town of St. Ignace was stormed by the Iroquois (in 1649) He was bound to a stake and scorched from head to foot ; the savages cut away his lower lip, and thrust a red-hot iron down his throat ; hung around his neck a necklace of red-hot collars ('* but the indomitable priest stood like a rock") ; poured boiling water over his head and face, in demoniac mockery of baptism ; cut strips of flesh from his limbs, and ate them before his eyes ; scalped him ; cut open his breast, and drank his living blood ; filled his eyes with live coals ; and after four hours of torture, a chief tore out his heart and devoured it. " Thus died Jean de Brebeuf, the founder of the Huron mission, its truest hero, and its greatest martyr He came of a noble race, — the same, it is said, from which sprang the English Earls of Arundel ; but never had the mailed barons of his line confronted a fate so appalling with so pro- digious a constancy. To the last he refused to flinch, and ' his death was the aston- ishment of his murderers.' " The delicate and slender Lalemant, Br6beuf 's col- league on the mission, wa« tortured for seventeen hours, with the most refined and exquisite varieties of torment. " It was said that, at times, he seemed beside him- self; then, rallying, with hands uplifted, he oflered his suflerings to Heaven as a sacrifice." The bones of Lalemant are preserved at the Hotel Dieu. Around, the Ramparts. * The Citadel is an immense and powerful fortification, covering 40 acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of Cape Diamond (so called from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), which is said to be " the coldest place in the British Empire." Since the evacuation of Canada by the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been garrisoned bj'^ Canadian militia- men, and visitors are usually permitted to pass around the walls under the escort of a soldier. The **view from the most northerly bastion (which contains an immense Armstrong gun) surpasses that from tlie Dufferin Terrace, and is one of the most magnificent in the world. The QUEBEC. Route 68. 267 WM re- pile of le Kam- ; can be liarch is lativity, I, Mena- ■ance"); s of the y Rubtns lal Klche- t ot it was it in 1762. le hospital ice by the jrvices will .f Br6beuf, )euf,aNor- Dd went to isions, and J: " Sentio itified when i was bound er lip, and i of red-hot water over h from his and dranlL ■ torture, a ;he founder > of a noble [undel; but [ith 80 pro- B the aston- ibeuf'8 col- •eflned and leside him- eaven as a Lvering 40 1 (so called to be " tlie Vnada by In militia- lalls under ly bastion Ifrom tlie Irld. Tlie St. Charles is seen winding through a beautiful undulating plain, and the spires of Feauport, Charlesbourg, and Lorette, with the white cottages around them, form pleasing features in the landscrpe. On the S. of the parade are the officers' quarters and the bomb-proof hospital, while bar- T&cki and magazines are seen in advance. The armory contains a great number of military curiosities, but is not always accessible to visitors. The Citadel is separated from the town by a broad glacis, which is brolcen by three ravelins ; and the wall on that side contains a line of casemated barracks. The entrance to the Citadel is by way of a winding road which leads in from St. Louis St. through the slope of the glacis, and enters first the outer ditch of the ravelin, beyond the strong Chain Gate. Thence it passes, always under the mouths of cannon, into the main ditch, which is faced with masonry, and at this point opens into a narrow parade, over- looked by the retiring angles of the bastion. The curious iron-work of the Chain Gate being passed, the visitor finds himself in an open triangular parade, under the loopholes of the Dalhousie Bastion. '* Such structures carry us back to the Middle Ages, the siege of Jerusalem, and St. Jean d'Acre, and the days of the Buocaniers. In the armory of the Citadel they showed me a clumsy implement, long since useless, which they called a Lombard gun. I thought that their whole Citadel was such a Lombard gun, fit object for the museums of the curious Silliman states that ' the cold is so intense in the winter nights, particularly on Cape Diamond, that the sentinels cannot stand it more than one hour, and are relieTed at the expiration of that time ; and even. as it is said, at much shorter intervals, in ca«e of the most extreme cold.' I shall never again wake up in a colder night than usual, but I shall think how rapidly the sentinels are relieving one another on the walls of Quebec, their quicksilver being all frozen, as if apprehensive that some hostile Wolfe may even then be scaling the Heights of Abraham, or some persevering Arnold about to issue from the vdldemess ; some Malay or Japanese, perchance, coming round by the N. W. coast, have chosen that moment to assault the Citadel. Why I should as soon expect to see the senti- nels still relieving one another on the walls of Nineveh, which have so long been buried to the world. What a troublesome thing a wall is ! I thought it was to de- feud me, and not I it. Of course, if they had no walls they would not need to have any sentinels.'* (Thoreau.) The Citadel was formerly connected with the Artillery Barracks, at the farther end of the city, by a bomb-proof covered way 1,837 yards lopg. These fortifications,,, are 345 feet above the river, and considerably higher than thd Upper Town. The rQ<;k on which they are founded is of dark slate, in which are limpid quartz-crystuds. The picturesque walls of Quebec are of no defensive value since the modern im- provements in ginnery ; and even the Citadel could not prevent dangerous ap- proaches or a bombardment of the city. Skilful military engineers have therefore laid out a more extensive system of modern fortifications, including lines of powerful detached forts on the heights of Point Levi, and at Sillery. The former were begun in 1867, and are nearly completed ; but the Sillery forts are not yet commenced. The spirit of utilitarianism, which has levelled the walls of Frankfort and Vienna and is menacing Boston Common, has been attacking the ramparts of Quebec for manv years. The St. Louis and Prescott Gates were removed in 1871, and the Pal- ace ,.Dd Hope Gates in 1873. The better sentiment of the scholars and public men of the Province, headed by Lord Dufferin, stayed this tide of so-called improvement, and started the work of restoration. A magnificent new portal of masonry, with towers and mediaeval appurtenances, was erected on the site of the St. Louis Gate ill 1878-79 ; and at the same time another very imposing entrance, called Kent Gate, was opened between this and St. John's Gate. Other projects are maturing, to still Airther enrich and beautify the ancient fortress-city, and to erect a stately palace for the Govemors-Oeneral, on the Citadel. 268 -A^^ ^* QUEBEC. The Esplanade extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate (witluii), and the tourist is recommended to walk along the rampifHs to St. John's Gate, crossing the new Kent Gate, viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, and the antiquated ordnance at the embrasures. On the r. are the Con- gregational (Catholic) Church, and the National School; and Montcalm's Ward and the new Parliament Building are on the I. * St. John's Oate is a strong and graceful structure which was erected in 1869. While rally- ing his soldiers outside of this gate, the Marquis de Montcalm was mortally wounded; and Col. Brown (of Massachusetts) attacked this point while Arnold and Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. To the L is St. John's Ward (see page 269) ; and the road to St. Foy passes below. The ramparts must be left at this point, and D'Auteuil and St. Helene Sts. follow their course by the Artillery Barracks^ amid fine grounds at the S. W. angle of the fortifications. The French garrison erected the most important of these buildings (600 ft. long) in 1750, and the British Govern- ment has since made large additions. The barracks are now occupied by ^JovernmeAt works. On and near St. Helene St. are several churches, — St. Patrick's (Iri&h Catholic), Trinity (Anglican), the Baptist, and the Con- gregationaL i ,, After crossing the wide and unsightly gap made by the removal of the Palace Gate, the rambler may follow the course of the walls from the Hotel Dieu (see page 266) to the Parliament Building. They occupy the crest of the cliff, and command fine views over the two rivers and the Isle of Orleans and Lauren dan Mts. The walls are thin and low, but are fur- nished with lines of loopholes and with bastions for artillery. The walk takes an easterly course beyond the angle of the convent-buildings, and passes between the battlements and the high walls of the Hotel-Dieu gar- dens for nearly 500 ft. The streets which intersect tbe Rampart beyond this point aro of a quaint and pleasing character. One of them is thus described by Howells : " The thresholds and doorsteps were covered with the neatest and brightest oilcloth ; the wooden sidewalk was very clean, like the steep, roughly paved street itself; and at the foot Of the hill down which it sloped waa a breadth of the < ity wall, pierced for musketry, and, past the comer of one of the houses, the ^alf-length of cannon showing. It had all the charm of those ancient streets, dear to Old- World travel, in which the past and present, decay and repair, peace and war, have made friends in an effect that not only wins the eye, but, however illogically, touches the heart ; and over the top of the wall it had a stretch of landscape as I know not what European street can command : the St. Lawrence, blue and wide ; a bit of the white village of Beauport on its bank ; then a vast breadth of pale green, upward-sloping meadows ; then the purple heights ; and the hazy heaven above them." Since Prescott Oate fell, there was " nothing left so picturesque and characteristic as Hope Oate, and I doubt if anywhere in Europe'there is a more mediaeval-looking bit of military architecture. The heavy stone gateway is black with age, and tbe gate, which has probably never been closed in our century, is of massive frame, set thick with mighty bolts and spikes. The wall here sweeps along the brow of thr erag on which tho city is built, and a steep street drops down, by stone- parapete«i curves and angles from the Upper to the Lower Town, where, in 1775, nothing but a narrow lane bordered the St. Lawrence. A considerable breadth of land has since been won flrom the river, and sevcrHl streets and many piers now stretch between this alley and the water ; but the old Sault au Matelot still crouches and creeps QUEBEC. Route 68. 269 a), and s Gate, tworks, he Con- itcalm's '8 Gate le rally- naortally at while the 1. is vr. The lene Sts. is at the the most I Govern- ;upied by irches, — ItheCon- iral of the from the pcupy the id the Isle at are fur- The walk ings, and pieu gar- Iquaint and I thresholds |the wooden at the foot musketry, lowing. It which the In an effect and over European , village of meadowd ; laracterisUc tval-looking e, and the . frame, set krow of tht [e-parapeteii aotblng but [id h«8 since uh between and creep* along nnder the shelter of the city wall and th^ orerhanf^ng rock, whkh is thickly beaided with weeds and grass, and trickles with abundant moisture. It must be an ice-pit in winter, and I should think it the last spot on the conticent for the summer to find ; but when the summer has at last found it, the old Sault au Matelot puts on a vagabond air of Southern leisure and abandon, not to be matched anywhere out of Italy. Looking from that jutting rock near Hope Oate, behind which the defeated Americans took- refuge from the fire of their enemies, the vista is almost unique for a certain scenic squalor and gypsy luxury of color : sag-roofed bams and stables, weak-backed and sunken-chested workshops of every sort lounge along in tumble-down succession, and lean up against the cliff in every imaginable posture of worthlessness and decrepitude ; light wooden galleries cross to them from the second stories of the houses which look back on the alley ; and over these galleries flutters, firom a labyrinth of clothes-lines, a variety of bright-colored garments of all ages, sexes, and conditions ; while the footway underneath abounds in gossiping women, smoking men, idle poultry, cats, children, and large indolent Newfoundland dogs." (HowiXLS^s A Chance Acquaintance.) Passing the ends of these quiet streets, and crossing the gap caused by the removal of Hope Gate, the Rampart promenade turns to the S., by the immense block of the Laval University (see page 263) and its concealed gardens. The course is now to the S., and soon reaches the * Grand Bat- tery, where 22 32-pounders command the river, and from whose terrace a pleasing view may be obtained. The visitor is then obliged to leave the walls near the Parliament Building (see page 263) and the site of the Pres- cott Gate. A short ddtour leads out again to the Dufibrin Terrace (see page 259). Des Garri^res St. runs S. from the Place d'Armes to the Oov- emor^a Garden, a pleasant summer-evening resort, with a monument 65 ft. high, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bear- ing the elegant and classic inscription: ' : Mortem. Virtus. Communem. : ! Famam. Historia. mokumentum. posteritas. Dedit. In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des Carri^res St. leads to the inner glacis of the Gitadel, and by turning to the r. on St. Denis St., its northern outworks and approaches may be seen. Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., the Chalmers Church is reached. This is a symmetrical Gothic building occupied by tbe Presbyterians, and its seryices have all the peculiarities of the old Scottish church. Beyond this point is St. Louis St., whence the circuit of the walls was begun. The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. on the plateau, from the city-walls to the line of the Martello Towers. The population is mostly French, and the quarter is entered by passing down St. John St. and through St. John's Gate. Glacis St. leads to the r., just beyond the walls, to the Convmt of the Gray Sisters, which has a lofty and elegant chapel. There are about 70 nuns, whose lives are devoted to teaching and to visiting the sick. This building shelters 136 orphans and infirm persons, 1 1 I I ! I 270 BauU 68. QUEBEC. and the sis^'^m teach 700 female children. It overlooks the St. Charles valley, commanding fine views. Just nbove the nunnery is the Convent of the Christian Brothers, facing on the glacis of the rampart. A short distance out St. John St. is St. Matthew's Church (Episcopal); beyond which is the stately Church of St. John (Catholic), whose twin spires are seen for many leagues to the N. and W. The interior is lofty and light, and contains 12 copies from famous European paintings, executed by Plamondon^ a meritorious Canadian artist. Claire-Fontaine St. leads S. from this church to the Grande AUee, passing just inside the line of the Martello Towers; and Sutherland St., leading into the Lower Town, is a little way beyond. The St. Foy toll-gate is about j^ M. from St. John's Church. " Above St. John's Gate, at the end of the street of that name, devoted entirely to business, there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. iThe riyer St. Charles, gambolling, as it were, in the rays of the departing luminary, the light still lingering on the spires of Lorette and Charlesbourg, until it fades away beyond the loffcy mountains of Bonhomme and Tonnonthuan, presents an evening scene of gorgeous ap.d surpassing splendor." (Hawkins.) " A sunset seen from the heights above the wide valley of the St. Charles, bathing In tender light the long undulating lines of remote hills, and transfiguring with glory the great chain of the Laurentides, is a sight of beauty to remain in the mind for- ever." (Marshall.) The Montcalm Ward may also be reached by passing out St. Louis St., through the intricate and formidable lines of ravelins and redoubts near the site of the St. Louis Gate. On the r. is the skating-rink, beyond which are the pleasnnt borders of the Grand All^e. The Convent of the Good Shepherd is in this ward, and has, in its church, a fine copy of Murillo's " Conception," by Plamondon. There are 74 nuns here, 90 penitents, and 600 girl-student A. The dark and heavy mediaeval structure on the Grand Allee was built for the Canada Military Asylum^ to take care of the widows and orphans of British soldiers who died on the Canadian stations. Near the comer of De Salaberry St. is St, Bridgets Asylum, connected with St. Patrick's Church. The Ladies' Protestant Home is nearly opposite, and is a handsome building of white brick, where 70 old men and young girls are kept from want by the bounty of the ladies of Quebec. The Martello Towers are four in number, and were built outside the extra-mural wards in order to protect them and to occupy the line of heights. They were erected in 1807 - 12, at an expense of $ 60,000, and are arranged for the reception of 7 guns each. They are circular in form, and have walls 13 ft. thick toward the country, while on the other side they are 7 ft. thick. The new Jail is about ^ M. in advance of the towers, and is a massive stone building, with walls pierced for musketry. Near this point (turning to the 1. from the Grand All^e beyond ttie toll-gate), and on the edge of the Plains of Abraham (extending to the S.), is a monument consisting of a tall column, decked with trophies, and risuig from a square base, oa which is the inscription: QUEBEC. EmtU 68. 271 Charles Convent A short ; beyond pires are nd light, cuted by leads S. ne of the own, is a )t. John's L entirely to l:he river y, the light way beyond ag scene of rles, bathing ,g with glory le mind for- HBRE DIED WOLFE victorious. Sept. 13. 1759. "The horror of the night, the precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he ^th a handfal of men added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly ter- minating life where his fame began Ancient story may be ransauiied, and ostentatious philosophy thrown into the account, before an episode can be found to rank with Wolfe's.'^ (Wouam Prrr.) The Lower Toum. The most picturesque approach from the Upper to the Lower Town is by tlie Champlain Steps (see page 264). This route leads to the busiest and most crowded part of the old river wards, and to the long lines of steam- boat wharves. Notre Dame des Viotoires is in the market square in the Lower Town, and is a plain old structure of stone, built on the site of , Champlain's residence. It was erected in 1690, and was called Notre Dame dea Victoires to commemorate the deliverance of the city from the English attacks of 1690 and 1711, in honor of which an annual religious feast was instituted. A prophecy was made by a nun that the church would be de- stroyed by the conquering British ; and in 1759 it was burned during the bombardment from Wolfe's batteries. S. of Notre Dame is the spacious Champlain Market, near an open square on whose water-front the river- steamers land. The narrow Champlain St. may be followed to the S., under Cape Diamond and by the point where Montgomery fell, to the great timber-coves above. St. Peter St. runs N. between the cliff? and the river, and is the seat of the chief trade of the city, containing numerous banks, public offices, and wholesale houses. The buildings are of the prevalent gray stone, and are massive and generally plain. The parallel lane at the foot of the cliff is the scene of the flnul discomfiture of the American assault in 1775. It is named SauU au Matelot, to commemorate the leap of a dog from the cliff above, near the Grand Battery. Leadenhali St. leads o£f on the r. to the great piers of Pointe a Carey and to the imposing classic building of the * Castom-House, which is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St, Charles Rivers. St. Paul St. runs W. from near the end of St. Peter St., along the narrow strip between the St. Charles and the northern cliffs, and passes the roads ascending to the Hope and Palace Gates. The Queen's FueU Yard (1. side) is beyond the Palace Market, and occupies the site of an immense range of buildings erected by M. Begon, one of the later Royal In- tendants of New France. Here also lived Bigot in all the feudal splendor of the old French noblesse, on the revenues which he extorted from the oppressed Province. In 1775 the palace was captured by Arnold's Virginia riflemen, who so greatly an- noyed the garrison that the buildings were set on fire and consumed by shells from the batteries of the Upper Town. It is now a bay and cattle market. ■ I .11 272 Route 68. QUEBEC. 1 1 St. Paul St. is prolonged by 8t. Joseph St., the main thoroughfSire of this quarter, and the boundary between the Jaques Cartier and St. Roch Warus. The latter is occupied chiefly by manufactories and shipyards (on the shores of the St. Charles); and the narrow and plank-paved streets of Jaques Cartier, toward the northern walls, are filled with quaint little houses and interesting genre views about the homes of the French-Canadian artisans. St. Booh's Church is a very spacious building, with broad in- terior galleries, and contains several religious paintings. The Convent of Notre Dame is opposite St. Roch's, and has 70 nuns (black costume), who teach 726 children. The * Marine Hospital is a large and imposing modem building, in Ionic architecture, situated in a park of six acres on the banks of the St. Charles River. The General Hospital and the monastery of Notre Dame des Anges form an extensive pile of buildings, on St. Ours St., hear the St. Charles. They were founded by St Vallier, second bishop of Quebec (in 169S), for invalids and incurables. He spent 100,000 crowns in this work, er^ting the finest building in Canada (at that time). It is now conducted by a superior and 45 nuns of St. Augustine. The convent- church of Notre Dame des Anges has 14 paintings by Legare, with an Assumption (over the high altar) dating from 1671. Pointe aux Liivres, or Hare Point, is beyond the (leneral Hospital, on the mend- OWB of the St. Charles. It is Puppo«ed to be the place where the pious Franciscan monks founded the first misi^'on in Canada. Jaques Cartier's winter-quarters in 1536 were here, and on leaving this point he carried off the Indian liing, Donnacona, who was afterwards baptized with great pomp In the magnificent cathedral of Rouen. On this ground, also, the army of Montcalm tried to rally after the disas. trous battle on the Plains of Abraham. The suburb of the Banlieue lies beyond St. Ours St., and is occupied by the homes of the lower classes, with the heights toward St. Foy rising on the S. St. Sauveur^s Church Is the only fine building in this quarter. Tn May, 1585, Jaques Cartier with his patrician officers and hardy sailors attended high mass and received the bishop's blessing in the Cathedral of St. Malo, a'nd then departed across the unlcnown western seas. The largest of his vessels was of only 120 tons' burden, yet the fleet crossed the ocean safely, and ascended the broad St. Law- rence. Having passed the dark Baguenay cliffs and the vine-laden shores of the Isle of Orleans, he entered a broad basin where " a mighty promontory, rugged and bare, thrust its scarped front into the raging current. Here, clothed in thernqjepty of solitude, breathing the stern poetry of the wilderness, rose the clids now rich with heroic memories, where the fiery Count Frontenac cast defiance at his foes, where Wolfe, Montcalm, and Montgomery fell. As yet all was a nameless barbar- ism, and a cluster of wigwams held the site of the rock-built city of Quebec. Its name was Stadacone, and it owned the sway of the roy&l Donnacona." It is held as an old tradition that when Cartier's Norman sailors first saw the promontory of Cape Diamond, they shouted " Quelhee ! " (" What a beak ! ") which by a natural elision has been changed to Quebec. Others claim that they named the place in loving memory of Caudebec, on the Seine, to which its natural features bear a magnified resemblance. But the more likely origin of the name is from the Indian word iteftee, signifying a strait, and applied to the comparative narrowing of the river above the Basin. It is, however, held in support of the Norman origin of the name that the seal of William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk in the 15th century, bears the title of Lord of Quebec. This noble had large domains in France, and was the vic- tor at Crevant and Compeigne, and the conqueror of Joan of Arc, but was impeached QUEBEC. Eoute 68. 273 e of this iWarus. (on the ;reet8 of int little :!anadian >road in- ynvent of me), who ilding, in )f the St. )tre Dame , hear the [)f Quebec ns in this It is now B convent- •«, with an >n the mead- IB Franciscan r-quarters in , Donnacona, lathedral of tr the disas- scupied by Ly rising on larter. Ilors attended ilo, ind then j9 of only 120 joad St. Law- Fes of the Isle rugged and the majesty as now rich at his foes, jless barbar- [Quebec. Its Ifirst saw the |ak! ") which ley named the ifeatuTcs bear Im the Indian Ig of tlie river I of the name Iry, bears the I was the vie- and put to death (aa narrated by Shakespeare, King Henry YI , Part 11., Act IT., Scene 1) for losing the English provinces in France after 84 arduous campaigns. When Cartier went to Montreal his men built a fort and pv ^ared winter-quarters near the St. Charles River. Soon after his return an inten^ .. cold set in, and nearly every man in the fleet was stricken down with the scurvy , of which many died in groat suSTering. In the springtime, Cartier planted the cross and fleur-de-lis on the site of Quebec, and returned to France, carrying King Donnacona and several of his chiefii as prisoners. These Indian.s were soon afterwards received into the Catholic Church, with much pomp and ceremony, and died within a year, in France. In 1541 Cartier returned with 6 vessels and erected forts at Cap Rouge, but the Indians were suspicious, and the colony was soon abandoned. Soon after> wards Roberval, the Viceroy of New France, founded another colony on the same site, but after a long and miserable winter it also was broken up. In the year 1608 the city of Quebec was founded by the noble Champlain,! who erected a fort here, and laid the foundations of Canada. A party of Franciscan monks arrived in 1615, and the Jesuits came in 1644. In 1628 Sir David Kirke vainly attacked the place with a small English fleet, but in 1629 he was more suc- cessfhl, and, after a long blockade, made himself master of Quebec. It was restored to France in 1632 ; and in 1635 Governor Champlain died, and was buried in the Lower Town. Champlain's successor was Charles de Montmagny, a brave and de- vout Knit^ht of idtelta, on whom the Iroquois bestowed thv name of Onontio (" Great Mountain ''). The work of founding new settlements and of proselyting the Uurons and combating the Iroquois was continued for the next century from the rock of Quebec. After the king had erected his military colonies along the St. Lawrence, he found that another element was necessary in order to make them permanent and progres- sive. Therefore, between 1665 and 1673 he sent to Quebec 1,000 girls, most of whom were of the French peasantry ; though the Intendant, mindful of the tastes of his officers, demanded and received a consignment of young ladies (" demoiselles bien choisies "). These cargoes included a wide variety, from Parisian vagrants to Nor- man ladies, and were maliciously styled by one of the chief nuns, " mixed goods " (une marchaiulise melie). The government provided them with dowries ; bachelors^ were excluded by law from trading, fishing, and hunting, and were distinguished by ' '' marks of infamy "; and the French Crown gave bounties for children (each inhab- itant who had 10 children being entitled to a pension of from 400 to 800 livres). About the year 1664 the city indulged in extraoi^inary festivities on the occasion of the arrival of the bones of St. Flavien and St. Felicity, which the Pope had pre- sented to the cathedral of Quebec. These honored relics were borne in solemn pro- cession through the streets, amid the sounds of martial music and the roaring of saluting batteries, and were escorted by the Marqui^< de Tracy, the Intendant Talon, and the valiant Courcelles, behind whom marched the royal guards and the famous Savoyard regiment of Carignan-Salieres, veterans of the Turkish campaigns. The diocese of Quebec was founded in 1674, and endowed with the revenues of the ancient abbeys df Maubec and Benevent. In the same ship with Bishop Laval came Father Uennepin, who explored the Mississippi from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Qulf of Mexico, and the fearless explorer La Salle. In 1672 the Count de Frontenao was sent here aa Governor, and in 1690 he bravely repulsed an attack by Sir Wm. Phipps's fleet (f^om Boston), inflicting severe damage by a cannonade from the fort. Besides many men, the assailants lost their admiral's standard and several ships. In 1711 Sir Hovenden Walker sailed from Boston against Quebec, but he lost in one day eight ves.sel8 and 884 men by shipwreck on the terrible reefs of the Egg Islands. Strong fortifications were built soon after ; and in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with 8,000 British soldiers. The Marquis de Montcalm was then Governor, and he moved the French army into fortified lines on Beauport Plains, where he defeated the British in a sanguinary action. On the night of Sept. 12, Wolfe's army drifted up stream on the rising tide, and succeeded in scaling the steep cliffs beyond the city. They were fired upon by the French outposts ; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across the St. Charles the Brit- ^ Champlain was bom of a good family in the province of Saintonge, in 1570. He became a naval officer, and woa afterward attached to the person of King Henri IV. In 1003 he ex- plored the St Lawrence River up to the St Louia Rapids, and afterward (until his death in 1635) he explored the country from Nantucket to the nead-waters of the Ottawa. He waa a brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the salvation of one sou) is of more im- portance than the founding of a new empire." He established strong mis«ton« among the Uurons, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 12* It 27i Haute 68, QUEBLU. ifh llnflf w«r« Ibnned npon the Plalna of Abraham ; and In th« short bat decperata battle which ensued both the generals were mortally wohnded. The EngliBh lost 664 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French army, which was largely composed of proTincisl levies (with the regiments of La Qulenne, Royal Roussilon, Beam, La Sane, and Languedoe), gave way, and retreated across the St. Charles, and a few days later the city surrendered. In April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family — Dukes of Yentadonr — which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch Levi) led the reorganized French army to St. Foy, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, hoping to lurprise Levis, advanced (with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the Plains of Abraham ; but the French were vigilant, and Murray was defeated and hurled back within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levis now laid close siege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John's Gate) from three heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannonade from IS2 Sins, until Commodore Swanton came up the river with a fleet from England. The ritish supremacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by the Treaty of Paris, and Voltaire cong^tulated Louis XV. on being rid of" 1,500 leagues of frozen coun> try." The memorable words of Gov. Shirley before the Massachusetts Legislature (June 28, 1746), " Canada est delenda,''^ were at last verified, but the campaigns had cost the British Government 9400,000,000, and resulted in the loss of the richest of England's colonies. For the attempted taxation of the Americans, which resulted In the War of Independence, was planned in order to cover the deficit caused in the British Treasury by the Canadian campaigns. \n the winter of 1775-6 the Americans besieged the city, then commanded by Gen. Oay Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dorchester). The provisions of the besiegers began to fail, their regiments were being depleted by sickness, and their light guns made but little impression on the massive city walls ; so an assault was ordered and conducted before dawn on Dec. 81, 1775. In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold advanced through the Lower Town from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and led his 800 New-£nglanders and Virginians over two or three barricades. The Mon- treal Bank and several other massive stone houses were filled with liritish regulars, who guarded the approaches with such a deadly fire that Arnold's men were forced to take refuge in the adjoining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and carried to the rear. Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Con- tinentals N. along Champlain St. by the river-side. The intention was for the two attacking columns, after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before the Prescott Gate and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across Champlain St. from the cliff to the river ; but when its guards saw the great masses of the attacking column advancing through the twilight, they fled. In all proba- bility Montgomery would have crossed the barricade, delivered Arnold's men by at- tacking the enemy in the rear, and then, with 1,500 men flushed with victory, would have escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one of the fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery and many of his dIBcers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke up in panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold's men, who were hemmed in by a sortie firom the Palace Gate, and 426 officers and men were made prisoners. A painted board has been hung high up on the cliff over the place in Champlain St. where Montgomery fell. Montgomery was an oflicer in Wolfe's army when Quebec was taken from the French 15 years before, and knew the ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope. Quebec was the capital of Canada from 1760 to 1791, and alter that it served as a semi-capital, until the found- ing of Ottawa City. In 1845, 2,900 houses were burnt, and the place was nearly destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber-trade, which is still its specialty. In September, 1874, Quebec was filled with prelates, priests, and enthusiastic people, and the second centennial of the foundation of the diocese was celebrated with great pomp. Nine triumphal arches, in Latin, By mtine, Romanesque, Classic, and Gothic arehitecture, were erected over the f'. "t ^ ' the Upper Town, and dedi- cated to the metropolitan dioceses of North America ; an imposing procession passed under them and into the Cathedral, which was endowed on that day with the nanie and privileges of a basilica; and at evening the city was illuminated, at a cost of 980,000. In the pageant was borne the ancient flag of Ticonderoga (Le JDrapeau de CqnUon)^ whiph floated over Montcalm's victorious army when he defeated Aber- QUEBEC. Route 68, 275 iMperato Slish lost iomposed (earn, La ,nd a few rentadonr Tch Levi) hoping to Plains of irled back laid close rem three > from 182 and. The y of Paris, ozen coun- Legislature paigns had s richest of Bh resulted used in the dedbyGcn. le besiegers r light guns jrdered and term Arnold js River, and . The Mon- sh regulars, vrere forced ivounded and ers and Con- fer the two unite before tched across great maseea n all proba- 8 men by at- ictory, would that one of pk, and fired [many of his >roke up in 'B men, who id men were [liff over the :er in Wolfe's id knew the le capital of il the found- ,e was nearly Ich is stiU its enthusiastic ks celebrated tque. Classic, (n,and dtdi- lession passed Ith the name lat a cost of ! Drapeau dt tfeated Aber- CTomble on Like ChampUdn (July 8, 1758), and Ii now on* of the moit esteemed trophies of Quebec. The annals of the Church contain no grander chapter than that which records the career of the Canadian Jesuits. Unarmed and alone, they passed forth from Quebec and Montreal, and traversed all the wide region between Labrador and the remote West, bravely meeting death in its most liugeriug and horrible forms at the hands of the vindictive savages whom they came to bless. Their achievements and their fate filled the world with amazement. Even Puritan New England, proudly and sternly jealous of her religious liberty, received their envoy with honors; Boston, Plymouth, and Salem alike became his gracious hosts; and the Apostle Eliot entertained him at his Roxbury parsonage, and urged him to remain. '*To the Jesuits the atmosphere of Quebec was wellnigh celestial. 'In the cli- mate of New France,' they write, ' one learns perfectly to seek only one God, to have no desire but Qod, no purpose but for God.' And again : * To live in New France is in truth to live in the bosom of God.' ' If,' adds Le Jeune, ' any one of those who die in this country goes to perdition, I think he will be doubly guilty.' " " Meanwhile from Old France to New came succors and reinforcements to the missions of the forest. More Jesuits crossed the sea to urge on the work of conver- sion. These were no stem exiles, seeking on barbarous shores an asylum for a per- secuted faith. Rank, wealth, power, and royalty itself smiled on their enterprise, and bade them God-speed. Yet, withal, a fervor more intense, a self-abnegation more complete, a self-devotion more constant and enduring, will scarcely find its record on the pages of human history It was her nobler and purer part that gave life to the early missions of New France. That gloomy wilderness, those hordes of savages, had nothing to tempt the ambitious, the proud, the grasping, or the indolent. Obscure toil, solitude, privation, hardship, and death were to lie the missionary's portion " The Jesuits had borne all that the human fhune seems capable of bearing. They had escaped as by miracle from torture and death. Did their zeal flag or their courage fail ? A fervor intense and unquenchable urged them on to more distant and more deadly ventures. The beings, so near to mortal sympathies, so human, yet so divine, in whom their faith impersonated and dramatized the great principles of Christian faith, — virgins, saints, and angels, — hovered over them, and held be- fore their raptured sight crowns of glory and garlands of immortal bliss. They burned to do, to suffer, and to die ; and now, from out a living martyrdom, they turned their heroic gaze towards an horizon dark with perils yet more appalling, and saw in hope the day when they should bear the cross into the blood-stained dens of the Iroquois. In 1647, when the powerful and bloodthirsty Iroquois were sweeping over Can- ada in all directions, the Superior of the Jesuita wrote: " Do not imagine that the rage of the Iroquois, and the loss of many Christians and many catechumens, can bring to naught the mystery of the cross of Jesus Christ and the efficacy of his blood. We shall die ; we shall be captured, burned, butchered : be it so. Those who die in their beds do not always die the best death. I see none of our company cast down. On the contrary, they ask leave to go up to the Hurons, and some of tiiem protest that the fires of the Iroquois are one of their motives for the journey." " The iron Brebeuf^ the gentle Gamier, the all-enduring Jogues, the enthuRiastio Chaumonot, Lalemant, Le Mercier, Chatelaia, Daniel, Pijart, Rogueneau, Du Peron, Poiicet, Le Moyne, — one and all bore themselves with a tranquil boldness, which amazed the Indians and enforced their respect When we look for the result of these missions, we soon become aware that the influence of the French and the Je.mits extended far beyond the circle of converts. It eventually modified and softened the manners of many unconverted tribes. In the wars of the next century we do not often find those examples of diabolic atrocity with which the earlier an- nals are crowded. The savage burned his enemies alive, it is true, but he seldom ate them ; neither did he torment them with the same deliberation and persistency. He was a savage still, but not so often a devil." (Parkman.) The traveller who wishes to study more closely this sublime episode in the New- World history may consult the brilliant and picturesque historical narratives of Mr. Francis Parkman : ".The Jesuits of North America," "The Pioneers of France in tbe New \forld," and " La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West." LeMoine's " Quebec, Past and Present," and '* Picturesque Quebec," should also be read. 276 RtmU 69. ! r:i 6i ) BEAUPORT. 69. The Environs of Quebec. This district in famed for its beautv, and is filled with objects of interest to the tourist. The suburban villages can be Tisited by pedestrian tours ; but in that case it is best to cut off communication with th» city, and to sweep around on the great curre which includes the chief points of attraction. The village inns furnish pooj^ accommodations. Such a walking tour should be taken only after a season of dry weather, else the roads will be found very muddy. But all the world goes about in carriages here, and a caliche and driver can bu hired at very low rates (fcc page 26C). The drivers' statements of distances can seldom be reiied on, for they gen- erally err on the side ot expansion. "I don't know whether I cared more for Quebec or the beautiful little villages in the country all about it. The whole landscape looks just like a dream of ' Evan- geline.' .... But if we are coming to the grand and beautiful, why, there is no direction in which you can look about Quebec without seeing it ; and it is always mixed up with something so familiar and homelike tliat my heart warms to it." (HoWfLLs's A C/iance Acquaintance.) ** The Falls of Hontmorenoi are 7 M. from the Dorchester Bridge, which is about 1 M. from the Upper-Town Market Square. The route usually taken leads down Palace St. and by the Queen's Fuel- Yard (see page 271) and St. Roch's Church. As the bridge is being crossed, the Marine Hospital is seen on the 1., and on the r. are the shipyards of St. Boch's Ward and the suburb of St. Charles. The road is broad and firm, and leads across a fertile plain, with fine retrospective views. The Beau- pot't Lunatic Asylum is soon reached, near which is the villa of Glenalla. The asylum formerly consisted of two large buildings, one for each sex ; but the female department was destroyed by fire in January, 1875, and several of its inmates were burnt with it. Beauport is 8|^ - 6 M. from Quebec, and is a long-drawn-out village ol 1,300 inhabitants, with a tall and stately church whose twin spires are seen from a great distance. There are several flour and barley mills in the parish, and a considerable lumber business is done. The seigniorj' was founded in 1634 by the Sieur Giffard, and along its plains was some of the heaviest fighting of the war of the Conquest of Canada. It is " in that part of Canada which was the first to be settled, and where the face of the country and the people have undergone the least change from the beginning, where the influence of the States and of Europe is least felt, and the inhabitants see little or nothing of the world over the walls of Quebec." The road from Quebec to St. Joachim is lined by a continuous succession of the quaint and solid little Cana- dian houses of whitewashed stone, placed at an angle with the street in order to face the south. The farms are consequently remarkably narrow (sometimes but a few yards wide and ^ M. long), and the country is bristling with fences. In 1664 the French king forbade that the colonists should make any more clearings, " except one next to another " ; but in 1745 he was obliged to order that their farms should be not less than 1^ arpents wide. These narrow domains arose from the social char- acter of the people, who were thus brought close together ; from their need of con- centration as a defence against the Indians ; and from the subdivision of estates by inheritance. The Latin Catholicism of the villagers is shown by roadside crosses rising here and there along the way. So late as 1827 Montmorenci County (which is nearly as large as Massachusetts) had but 6 shops, 80 artisans, 2 schools, 5 churches Tall Catholic), and 6 vessels (with an aggregate of 59 tons). There has been but little change since. In 1861, out of 11,186 inhabitant.« in the county, 10,708 were of French origin, of whom but a few icore understand the English language. MONTMQBENCI FALLS. RouU69. 277 Rt to the in that d on the s furnish teasou of )ca about (fcc page hey gcn- ^lllngcR in of « tvan- lere is no ; ia always us to it." f Bridge, ?he route Yard (see )ssed, the irds of St. and firm, rhe Beau- ' Glenalla. leach sex; 1875, and M. from with a tall distance, ^nsiderable the Sieur of the war icre the face i beginning, abitants see 11 Quebec to little Cana- in order to times but a ;8. In 1664 gs, •• except irms should social char- iced of con- [f estates by [side crosses Issachusetts) Vessels (with Il861,outof Tmbutafew M. Rameau {"La JVoiim aux Cotonies^^) haa prored, after much labor and re- search, that the colonists who settled the Cote de Beaupro and Beauport were from the ancient French province of La Perche ; adding that Montreal was colonised from the province of Apjou, the Isle of Orleans from Poitou, and Quebec, Trois Rivieres, and the Richelieu valley from Normandy. Beyond the church of Beauport the road continues past the narrow do- mains on either hand, and runs along the side of the Haldimand estate. The Jilontmorenci River is crossed, and the traveller stops at the Montmorenci Restaurant^ where lunch may be obtained. At this point admission is given to the grounds about the Falls (fee, 25c.); and the tourist sliould visit not only the pavilion near the brink (which commands a charming view of Quebec), but also the small platform lower down (and reached by a long stairway), whence the best front-view is obtained. The descent to the basin below is diflScult, and will hardly repay the labor of the return. A short distance below the Falls is the confluence of the Montmorenci with the St. Law^rence snd immense saw-mills are located there, employ- ing 7 - 800 men and cutting up 2,500 logs a day. Near the Falls is Haldi- mand House, formerly odcupied by the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's father; and on the cliffs by the river are seen the towers of a suspension- bridge which fell soon after its erection, hurling three persons into the fatal abyss below. At the foot of these Falls an immense ice-cone (some- times 200 ft. high) is formed every winter, and here the favorite sport of tobogganning is carried on. The * Natural Steps are 1^ M. above the Falls, where the Montmorenci is contracted into a narrow limit and rushes down with great velocity, having cut its bed down through successive strata and leaving step-like terraces on either side. Fine specimens of trilobites have been found in this vicinity. The road running on beyond the Montmorenci Restaurant leads to Ange Gardien and St. Anne (see Route 70). The views ou the way back to Quebec are very beautiful. , The old French habitans call the Montmorenci Fall, La Vache (" The Cow"), on account of the resemblance of its foaming waters to milk. Others attribute this name to the noise like the lowing of a cow which is made by the Fall during the prevalence of certain winds. Immediately about the basin and along the Mont- morenci River, many severe actions took place during Wolfe's siege of Quebec. This river was for a time the location of the picket-lines of the British and French armies. " It is a very simple and noble fall, and leaves nothing to be desired It is a splendid introduction to the scenery of Quebec. Instead of an artificial fountain in its square, Quebec has this magnificent natural waterfall to adorn one side of its harbor." (Thobeao.) " The effect on the beholder is most delightful. The river, at some distance, seems suspended in the air, in a sheet of billowy foam, and, contrasted, as it is, with the black frowning abyss into which it falls, it is an object of the highest in- terest. It has been compared to a white ribbon, suspended iu the air ; this com- parison does justice to the delicacy, but not to the grandeur of the cataract." (Snr UMAN.) " A safe platform leads along the rocks to a pavilion on a point at the side of the fell, and ou a level with it. Here the gulf, nearly 800 ft. deep, with its walls of chocolate-covered earth, and its patches of emerald herbage, wet with eternal spray, opens to the St. Lawrence. Montmorenci is one of the loveliest water&Us. In its 278 Rc, which the Jesuits named SUlery, in his honor. Here the Abenaquis of Maine teamed the elements of Catholicism, which was afterwards unfolded to them in their villages on the Kennebec, by Father Druilletes. This worthy old clergyman folloved them in their grand hunts about Moosehead Lake and the northern forests, " with toil too great to buy the kingdoms of this world, but very small as a price for the Kingdom of Heaven.'' From the mission-house at Sillery departed Jogues, Br^beuf, Lalemant, and many other heroic missionaries and martyrs of the primitive Canadian Church. *^ It was the scene of miracles and martyrdoms, and marvels of many kinds, and the centre of the mis- sionary efforts among the Xnd' is- Indeed, few events of the picturesque early his- tory of Quebec left it untouv:>>' i .-id it is worthy to be seen, no less for the wild beauty of the spot than for it ' : v cal memories. About a league tvom the city, where the irregular wall of rt ". . o> which Quebec is built recedes from the river, and a grassy space s '.retches between the tide and the foot of the woody steep, the old mission and the Indian village once stood ; and to this day there yet stands the stalwart frame of the first Jesuit Residence, modernized, of course, and turned to secular uses, but firm as of old, and good for a century to come. All around is a world of lumber, and rafts of vast extent cover the face of the waters in the ample cove, — one of niany that indent the shore of the St. Lawrence. A careless village straggles along the roadside and the river's margin ; huge lumber-ships are loading for Europe in the stream ; a town shines out of the woods on the opposite shore ; nothing but a friendly climate is needed to make this one of the most charming scenes the heart could imagine." Cap Ronge is 9 M. from Quebec, and may be reached by the road which passes through Sillery. It is a village of 800 inhabitants, with a timber- trade and a large pottery ; and is connected with Quebec by semi-daily stages. The cape forms the W. end of the great plateau of Quebec, which, according to the geologists, was formerly an island, around which the St. Lawrence flowed down the St. Charles valley. Beyond Cap Rouge are sev- eral very interesting villages: St. Augustin, with its venerable church; Deschambault ; and other old French parishes. The mansion of RedcUiffe IS on the cape, and is near the site where Jaques Cartier and Roberval passed the winters of 1541 and 1542. On thti same point batteries were erected bv Montcalm and Murrav. ■r * In returning from Cap Rouge to the city, it may be well to turn to the 1. at St. Albans and gain the St. Foy road. The village of St. Foy is 6 M. from Quebec, and contains many pleasant villas and mansions. To the N. is the broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles, in which may be seen Andenne Lorette (two inns), a lumbering village of 8,000 inhabitants, on the Gosford Railway, i^ M. from St. Foy. Beyond the Church of St. 282 Houte 69. POINT LEVI. I I ii; ^'1 'h % Foy is the * monumental column, sunnonnted by a statue of BeHona (pre- sented by Prince Napoleon), which marks the site of the fiercest part of the Second Battle of the Plains, in which De Levis defeated Murray (1760). The monument was medicated with great pomp in 1854, and stands over the grave of many hundreds who fell in the fight. Passing now the handsome Finlay Aiiylum and several villas, the suburb of St. John is entered. Point Levi (or Levis) is on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, opposite Quebec, with which it is connected by ferry-boats running every 15 min- utes. It has about 10,000 inhabitants, with a large and increasing trade, being the terminus of the Quebec branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and of the Intercolonial and Levis & Kennebec Railways. On the lofty plateau beyond the town are the great forts which have been erected to defend Quebec from a second bombardment from this shore. They are three in number, 1 M. apart, solidly built of masonry and earth, with large casern ces and covered ways ; and are to be armed with Moncrieff guns of the heavifst calibre. It is said that these forts cost $15,000,000, —a palpable exaggeration, — but they have been a very expensive piece of work, and are said to be more nearly like Cherbourg, the best of modem European fortifications, than any others in America. The batteries with which Gen. Wolfe destroyed Quebec, in 1759, were located on this line of heights. St. Joseph is 2^ M. from Point Levi, and transacts a large business in wood and timber. South Quebec is above Point Levi, and is closely con- nected with it. The Liverpool steamers stop here, and there are great shipments of lumber from the harbor. The town has 3,000 inhabitants, and is growing rapidly. St, Romudld (or New Liverpool) is 5 M. from Quebec, and adjoins S. Quebec. It has several factories and mills and a large lumber-trade, and is connected with Quebec by semi-daily steamers. The * Church of St. Bomaald is "the finest on the Lower St. Lawrence," and is celebrated for its paintings (executed in 1868-9 by Lamprech of Munich). In the choir are the Nativity, Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Christ; in the Chapel of St. Joseph, the Marriage of St. Joseph, the Flight into Egypt, Nazareth, Jesus :>iid the Doctors, the Death of St. Joseph ; in the Chapel of the Virgin, the Annunciation, the Visitation, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Presentation in the Temple. Above are eight scenes from the life of St. Romuald, from his Conver- sion to bis Apotheosis. There are 16 medallions on a gold ground, representing Sts. Peter and Paul, the Four Evangelists, and five doctors of the Greek Church and five of the Latin Church. The altars wero der^igned by Schneider of Munich, and the statues were carved in wood by Rudmiller of Munich. The ♦ Chaudidre Falls are 4i M. beyond St. Romuald, and over 9 M. fW)m Quebec. They can only be reached by walking a considerable dis- tance through the borde. ing fields. " The deep green foliage of the woods overhanging, the roar of the cataract, and the solitude of the place, espc- ofiUly as you emerge suddenly from the for jst fastnesses on tha scene, pro- ENVIRONS OP CHARLOTTETOWN. RouU 70. 283 duce a strong and vivid impression, not soon to be forgotten." Some visitors even prefer ttiis fall to that of Montmorenci. Tlie Chaudi^re de- scends from Lake Megantic, near tlie frontier of Maine, traversing the Canadian gold-fields. Arnold's hungry and heroic army followed the course of this river from its source to its mouth in their arduous winter- march, in 1776. The Chaudi^re Falls are 8 M. from its confluence with the St. Lawrence, and at a point where the stream is compressed into a breadth of 400 ft. The depth of the plunge is about 185 ft., and the waters below are continually in a state of turbulent tossing. At the verge of the fall the stream is divided by large rocks, forming three channels, of which that on the W. is the largest. The view from the E. shore is the best. " The wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhanging woods, the rapid motion, ^\iet, throughouc our re put to lurch, in [ey set Are iwing day ,andharn, annoyed ^nne on kttany," the river- ted by a Ver forms of rare Iw York. Ing its way rock, 8ud- n have an [along the ■tMp Ihee of the roek. Into a d«ep gorge of bonrid darknosi. I do not know th« to1> nme oi water ; I forgot to guess the height, — it may be two hundred, feet. Figures are absurd in the estimate of the beauty and grandeur of a scone )ike tiiis. I only know that the whole impression of the scene was one of the moct intense I have ever experienced. The disposition of the mass of broken waters is the most gnracefal con« ceivable. The irresistible might of the rush of thto fall, the stupendous upright masses of black rock that form the chasm ; the heavy fringe of dark woods all around; the utter solitariness and gloom of the Ecene, — all aid to impress' the imagination. An artist might prefer this spot to Niagara." (Marshall.) " Here the river, 1 -200 ft. wide, comes flowing rapidly over a rocky bed out of that interesting wilderness which stretches toward Hudson's Bay and IHivis's Straits. Ha Ha Bay, on the Saguenay, was about 100 M. N. of where we stood. Looking on the map, I find that the first country on the N. which bears a name is that part of Rupert's Land called East Main. This river, called after the Holy Anne, flowing from such a direction, here tumbles over a precipice, at present by three channels, how far down I do not know, but far enough for all our purposes, and to as good a distance as if twice as far The falling water seemed to jar the very rocks, and the noise to be ever increasing. The vista was through t narrow and deep cleft in the mountain, all white suds at the bottom." From the bed of the stream below " rose a perpendicular wall, I will not venture to say how &r, but only tha^; it was - the highest perpendicular wall of bare rock that I ever saw This precipice is not sloped, nor is the material soft and crumbling slate as at Montmorenci, but it rises perfectly perpendicular, like the side of a mountain fortress, and is cracked into vast cubical masses or gray and black rock shining with moisture, as if it were tlie ruin of an ancient wall built by Titans Take it altogether, it was a most wild and rugged and stupendous chasm, so deep and narrow where a river had worn it- self a passage through a mountain of rock, and all around was the comparatively untrodden wilderness." (Thoreau.) The base of the St. Anne Mts. is reached by a road running up the val- ley for 3-5 M. The chief peak is 2,687 ft. high, but the v'ew thence is intercepted by trees. The Valley of St. Fereol is 8 M. from Si. Anne, and is surrounded by beautiful scenery. It contains 1,100 inhabitants, and in the vicinity are several lofty and picturesque cascades. St. Tite dcs Cap$ is a village of 800 inhabitants, 6 M. from the river, between Cape Tour- mente and the St. Fereol Mts. The trouting in these glens is very good, and rare sport is found at Ijoke St. Joachim, several miles beyond. St. Joachim is 5 M. beyond St. Anne, and is a village of 1,000 inhabi- tants, situated near the river, and opposite St. Francois d* Orleans. 2 M. beyond this point is the Chllteau Bellevue and the farm of the Quebec Seminary. The summit of Cape Tonrmente is about 8 M. from the chateau, and is sometimes ascended for the sake of its superb * view. The Seminarians have kept a cross upon this peak for the last half-century; and in 1869, 44 Catholic gentlemen, led by the Archbishop of Quebec, erected a new one, 25 ft. high, and covered with tin. The Ch&teau Bettevue is a long and massive building of limestone, situated near the foot of Cape Tourmente, and surrounded by noble old forests, in which are shrines of St. Joseph and the Virgin. The ch&teau is furnished with reading and billiard rooms, etc. , and 's occupi^ every summer by about 40 priests and students from the Seminary of Quebec. The neat Chapel of St. Louis de Qonzaga (the pro- tector of youth) is S. of the ch3lteau. Near this point Jaques Cartier anchored in 1535, and was visited by the Indians, who brought him presents of melons and maize. In l&tS Champlain came hither from Que^ and founded a settlement, whose traces arj still seen. This post was . destroyed by Sir David Kirke's men in 1628, and the sett ers were driven away. St. Joachim was occupied in August, 1759, by 150 of vhe 78th Highlanders, who i 288 RouU 71. THE ISLE OF ORLEANS. had Jnst marched down tht Iil« of Orteani, through St. Pierrs and St. Ftomflle. Tbejr ^rere engaged in the streets by armed villagers, and had a sharp akinnish before the Cftnadians were driven Into the forest, after which the Scottish soldiera fortified themselves in the priest's house, near the church. The site of the seminary was occupied before 1670 by Bishop Laval, who founded here a rural seminary in which the youth of the peasantry were instructed. They were well grounded in the doctrine and discipline of the Church, and were in- structed in the mechanic nrts and in various branches of farming. This was the first " agricultural college ' ' in America. The broad seigniory of the Cdte de Beaupr^, which lies between St. Joachim and Ceauport, was then an appanage of Bishop Laval, and was more populous than Quebec itself. " Above the vast meadows of the parish of St. Joacbiin, that here border the St. Lawrence, there rises like an island a low flat hill, hedged round with forests, like the tonsured head of a monk. It was here that Laval planted his school. Across the meadows, a mile or more dis- tant, towers the mountain promontory of Cape Toumiente. You may climb its woody steeps, and from the top, waiHt-deep in blueberry -bushes, survey, from Kamouraska to Quebec, the grand Canadian world outstretched below ; or mount the neighboring heights of St. Anne, where, athwart the gaunt arms of ancient pines, the river lies shimmering in summer haze, the cottages of the habitants are strung like beads of a rosary along the meadows of Beaupr^, the shores of Orleans bask in warm light, and far on the horizon the rock of Quebec rests like a faint gray cloud ; or traverse the forest till the roar of the torrent guides you to the rocky sol- itude where it holds its savage revels Game on the river ; trout in lakes, brooks, and pools ; wild fruits and flowers on the meadows and mountains ; a thou- sand resoui^es of honest and healthful recreation here wait the student emancipated firom books, but not parted for a moment from the pious influence that hangs about the old walls embosomed in the woods of St. Joachim. Around on plains and hills stand the dwellings of a peaceful peasantry, ns diflerent from the restless population of the neighboring States as the denizens of some Norman or Breton viliage." (Park- man.) 7L The Isle of Orleans. Steam ferry-boats leave Quebec three times daily for the Isle of Orleans. The trip gives beautiful views of the city and its marine environs, and of the Mont- morenci Falls and the St. Anne Mts. The island is traversed by two roads. The N. shore road passes from West Point to St. Pierre, in 5 M. ; St. Famille, 14 M. ; and St Francois, 20 M. The S. shore road runs firom West Point to Patrick's Hole, in 6 M. ; St. Laurent, 7^ ; St. John, 13^ ; St. Francois, 21. A transverse road crosses the island from St Laurent to St. Pierre. The Isle of Orleans is about Sj M. from Quebec, and contains 70 square miles (47,923 acres) of land, being 20 M. long and 5^ M. wide. The beau- tiful situation of the island, in the broad St. Lawrence, its picturesque heights and umbrageous groves, its quaint little hamlets and peaceful and priir.itive people, render Orleans one of the most interesting districts of the Lower Province, and justify its title of "the Garden of Canada." The island was called Mini go by the Indians, a large tribe of whom lived here and mrried on the fisheries, providing also a place of retreat for the mainland tribes in case of invasion. In 1585 Cartier explored these shores and the hills and forests beyond, being warmly welcomed by the resident Indians and feasted with fish, honey, and melons. He speaks of the noble forests, and adds : ^' We found there great grape-vines, such as we had not seen before in all the world ; and for that we named it the Isle of Bacchus." A year later it received the name of the Isle of Orleans, in honor of De Yalois, Duke of Orleans, the son of Francis I. of France- The popular name was Vhle des Sorciers (Wizards' Island), either on account of the marvellous skill of the natives in foretelling future storms and nautical events, or else because the superstitious colouists on the mainland were alarmed at the nightly movements of lights along the insular shores, and attributed to d*'monfi and wiiurds the dancing fires which were carried by the Indians in visiting their fish- nsts during the night-tides. ST. PIERRE D'ORLEANS. R(mU71. 289 The Island ma granted in 1620 to the Slear de Caen by the Dake de Montmorenel, Viceroy of New France. In 1675 this district was formed into the Earldom of St. Laurent, and was conferred on M. Berthelot, who assumed the title of the Count of St. Lawrence. In 1651 the N. part was occupied by 600 Christian Hurons, who had taken refUge under the walls of Quebec from the exterminating Iroquois. In 1656 the Iroquois demanded that they should come and dwell in their country, and upon their refusal fell upon the Hurons with a force of 3IJ0 warriors, devastated tlie island, and killed 72 of the unfortunate Christians. Two tribes were compelled soon after to surrender and be led as captives into the Iroquois country, while the Tril)e of the Cord left the island and settled at Lorette. The Isle was overrun by Iroquois in 1061, and in an action with them at Riviere Maheu, De Lauzon, Seneschal of Nevr France, and ali his guards were killed, preferring to die figliting than to surrender and be tortured. The great cross of Argentenay was carried away and raised in tri- umph at the Iroquois village on Lake Onondaga (New York). For nearly a century the Isle enjoyed peace and prosperity, until it had 2,000 in* habitants with 5,000 cattle and rich and productive farms. Then came the advance of Wolfe's fleet ; the inhabitants all fled to Charlesliourg ; the unavailing French troops and artillery left these shores ; Wolfe's troops landed at St. Laurent, and erected camps, forts, and hospitals on the S. £. point ; and soon afterward the Brit- ish forces systematically ravaged the deserted country, burning nearly every house on the Isle, and destroying the orchards. The Isle is now divided into two seigniories, or lordships, whose revenues and titles are vested in ancient French families of Quebec. The soil is rich and di- versified, and its pretty vistas justify Charlevox's sketch (of 1720): " We took a stroll on the Isle of Orleans, whose cultivated fields extend around like a broad am- phitheatre, and gracefully end the view on every side. I have found this country beautiful, the soil good, and the inhabitants very much at their ease." The agri- cultural interest is now declining, owing to the antique and unprogressive ideas of the farmers, who confine themselves to small areas and neglect alternation of crops. The farms are celebrated for their excellent potatoes, plums, apples, and for a rare and delicious variety of small cheeses. The people arc temperate, generous, and hospitable, and, by reason of their insular position, still preserve the primitive Norman customs of the early settlers under Champlain and Frontena?. The Isle and the adjacent shore of Beauprihave been called the nursery of Canada, so many have l)een the emigrants from these swarming hives who have settled in other parts of the Provinces. St. Pierre is the village nearest to Quebec (9 M.), and is reached by ferry-steamers, which also run to Beaulieu. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is beautifully situated nearly opposite the Montmorenci Falls and Ange Gardien.- The first chapel was erected here in 1651 by Pfere Lale- mant, and was used by the Hurons and French in common. In 1769 the present church of St. Pierre was erected. On this shore, in 1825, were built the colossal timber-ships, the Columbus, 3,700 tons, and the Baron Rtnfrew, 3,000 tons, the largest vessels that the world had seen up to that time. The convent of St. Famille was founded in 1685, by the Sisters of the Congregation, and since that time the good nuns have educated the girls of the village, having generally about 70 in the institution. The nunnery is seen near the church, and was built in 1699, having received additions from time to time as the village increased. Its cellar is divided into nar^ row and contracted cells, whose design has been long forgotten. The woodwork of the convent was burned by Wolfe's foragers in 1759, but was restored in 1761, after the Conquest of Canada. The first church of St. Famille was buUt in 1671, and the present church dates from 1745. The 18 s 290 MauUri. ST. LAURENT D'ORLEANS. Tillage is nearly opposite Ch&teau Bicher, and commands fine views of the Laorentian Mts. The Parish of St. FranqoU includes the domain of the ancient fief of Argentenay, and was formed in 1678. In 1683 the first church was buvit, and the present church dates from 1736, and was plundered by Wolfe's troops in 1769. The view from the church is very beautiful, and includes the St Lawrence to the horizon, the white villages of the S. coast, and the Isles of Madame, Grosse, and Beaux. On the N. shore, at the end of the island, are the broad meadows of Argentenay, where wild-fowl and other game are sought by the sportsmen of Quebec. This district looks across the N. Channel upon the dark and imposing ridges of the St. Anne Mts. and the peaks of St. Fer^ol; and the view from the church is yet more exten- sive and beautiful. The church of St. John was built in 1735, near the site of a chapel dating from 1675, and contemporary with the hamlet. This parish is famous for the number of skilful river-pilots which it has furnished. It has about 1,300 inhabitants, and is the most important parish on the island. It is nearly opposite the S. shore village of St. Michel (see page 254). St. Laurent is 7 M. from St. Jean, upon the well-settled royal road. The parish is entered after crossing the Bivi^re Maheu, where the Seneschal of New France fell in battle. The Church of St. Laurent is a stately edifice of cut stone with a shining tin roof, and is 113 ft. in length. It re- placed churches of 1675 and 1697, and was consecrated in 1861. The Boute des Pretres runs N. from St. Laurent to St. Pierre, and was so named 60 years ago, when this church had a piece of St. Paul's arm-bone, which was taken away to St. Pierre, and thence was stolen at night bj' the St. Laurent people. After long controversy, the Bishop of Quebec ordered that each church should restore to the other its own relics, which was done along this road by large processions, the relics being exchanged at the great black cross midway on the road, li M. W. of St. Laurent is the celebrated haven called Trou St. Patrice (since 1689), or Patrick's Hohj where vessels seek shelter in a storm, or outward-bound ships await orders to sail. The river is 14 M. wide here, and there are 10 - 12 fathoms of water in the cove. 2 M. W. of this point is the Caveme de Bontemps, a grotto about 20 ft. deep cut in the solid rock near the level of the river. QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY. JtouU 79, 291 of the Hef of bmlt, Volfe's icludes ind the of the i other \ across Its. and ) exten- , chapel larish is hed. It e island. 'al road. ,eneschal a stately Itre- 1. The ,0 named e, which the St. ordered [hich was langed at ,urent is *atricl:'» ps await fathoms ,e river. 7Sl Qaebeo to Cacouna and the Sagnenay River. ~ The North Shore of the St lAwrence. The St. Lawrence Steam Navijiration Company has seTpral flrst-clans steamen ply« ing on the lower reaches of the river. The time-table below is that of 1874 ; but if any changes have been made, they may be seen in the Quebec newspapers, or at the ticket-ofRve, opposite the St. Louis Hotel. At 7 A.M., on Tuesday and Friday, the Saguenay leaves Quebec for St. Paurs Bay, Les l*iboulement8, Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup (Cacouna), Tndourac, Ha Ha Bay, and ChicoutimI ; reaching Quebec again on Thursday nnd Monday mornings. On Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday the Union or the SK. Lawrence leaves Quebec at 7 a. m., for Murray Bny, Riviere du Loup, Tadousac, and Ha Ua Bay ; reaching Quebec the second morning after. On Saturday the St. Lawrence leaves Quebec, at noon, for Murray Bay, F^viiie du Loup, and Rimouski ; reaching Quebec again on Tuesday morning. DiBtnnces. — Quebec to St. Laurent, 12 M. ; St. John (Orleans), 17; Isle Ma- dame, 23; Cape Tourmente, 28 ; St. Francois Xavier. 45; St. Paul's Bay, 66; Ijes Eboulements, 66 ; Murray Bay, 82 ; Riviere Du Loup, 112 (Cacouna, 118) : Tadoumc, 184(Chicouthnl,235). The S. shore is described in Soute 67 (pages 246-255), and the Isle of Orleans in Route 71. As the steamer moves down across the Basin of Quebec, beautiful * views are afforded on all sides, including a fascinating retrospect of the lofty fortress. " Behind us lay the city, with its tinned roofi glittering in the morning sunshine, and its citadel-rock ^'><%'ering over the river ; on the southern shore, Point Levi, picturesquely climbing the steep bank, embowered in dark trees ; then the wooded bluffs with their long levels of furm-laud behind them, and the scattered cottages of the habitants, while northward the shore ro«c with a gradual, undulating sweep, glittering, far inland, with houses, and gardens, and crowding villages, until it reached the dark stormy line of the Laurentiau Mts. in the N. E The sky, the air, the colors of the landscape, were from Norway ; Quebec and the surrounding villages suggested Normandy, — except the tin roofs and spires, which were Russian, rather; while here and there, though rarely, were the marks of English occupancy. The age, the order, the apparent stability and immobility of society, as illustrated by external things, belonged decidedly to Europe. This part of America is but 70 or 80 years older than New England, yet there seems to be a difference of 500 years." (Batard Tatlor.) After running for 17 M. between the populous shores and bright villages of Orleans and Bellechasse (see page 254), the steamer turns to the N. E., when off St. John, and goes toward Cape Tourmente, passing between Isle Madame and the Isle of Orleans. Then St. Francois is passed, on the 1., and the meadows of Argentenay are seen, over which is &c. Joachim. As the N. Channel is opened, a distant view of St. Anne de Beaupr^ may be obtained, under the frowning St. Anne Mts. Cape Tourmente (see page 287) is now passed, beyond which are the great Laurentian peaks of Cape Rouge and Cope Gribaune, over ^,000 ft. high, and impinging so closely on the river that neither road nor houses can be built. These mountains are of granite, and are partially wooded. 8 M. N. E. of Cape Tourmente is a lighthouse, 175 ft. above the water, on the rugged slope of Cape Rouge. A few miles to the E. is the SatUt au Cochon^ under the crest of a mountain 2,370 ft. high. 292 Jtoute 79. ST. PAUL'S BAY. Boucher asserted, in 1668, that the shore between Cape Tourmente and Tadousao Tras uninhabitaUe, *' being too lofty, and all rocky and escarped." Bat the French Canadians, hardy and tireless, and loving the St. Lawrence more than the Normans love the Seine, have founded numerous hamlets on the rocks of this iron shore. The coast between St. Joachim and St. Francois Xavier is a.s yet unoccupied. " We ran along the bases of headlands, 1,COO to 1,500 ft. in height, wild and dark with lowering clouds, gray with rain, or touched with a golden transparency by the sunshine, — alternating belts of atmospheric effect, which greatly increased their beauty. Indeed, all of us who saw the Lower St. Jjawrence for the first time were surprised by the imposing character of its scenery." (Bayard Tatlor.) Bej'ond Abattis and the high cliffs of Cape Maillard the steamer pa.sses the populous village of St. Frangois Xavier, extending up the valley of the Bouchard River. On the S. a long line of picturesque islets is passed (see page 254). Bej'^ond Cape Labaie the steamer lies to off St. Paul's Bay, whose unique and beautiful scenery is seen from the deck. St. Paul'tt Bay (two small inns) is a parish of 4,000 inhabitants, situ- ated amid the grandest scenery of the N. shore. The people are all French, and the village is clustered about the church and convent nenr the Gouffre River. In the vicinity are found iron, plumbago, limestone, garnet-rock, and curious saline and sulphurous springs. It is claimed that "no parish offers so much of interest to the tourist, the poet, or the naturalist." The wild and turbulent streams that sweep down the valley have carried away all the bridges which have been erected by the people. Passengers who wish to land at this point are transferred from the steamer to a large sail- boat. The vistas up the valleys of the Gouffre and the Moulin Rivera show distant ranges of picturesque blue mountains, with groups of conical Alpine peaks. In 1791 It is claimed that the shores of the bay were shaken by earthquakes for many days, after which one of the peaks to the N. belcheJ forth great volumes of smoke and passed into the volcanic state, emitting columns of flame through several days. The peaks are bare and white, with sharp precipices near the summit. The valley of the Qoufire has been likened to the Vale of Clwyd, in Wales, and is traversed by a feir road along the r. bank of the rapid river. 10 - 12 M. from the bay are the ex- tensive deposits of magnetic iron-ore which were explored by order of Intendant Talon, a century and a half ago. In the upper part of the valley, 9 M. from St. Paura Bay, is St. Urbain, a French Catholic village of about 1,000 inhabitants. By this route the tri-weekly Royal mail-stages cross to Chicoutimi, on the upper Sague- nay (see page 300). St. Placide (Glairvaux) is also back of St. Paul's Bay, and has 400 inhabitants. " In all the miles of country I had passed over, I had seen nothing to equal the exquisite beauty of the Vale of Bale St. Paul. From the hill on which we stood, the wl ole valley, of many miles in extent, was visible. It was perfectly level, and covered from end to end with little hamlets, and several churches, with here, and there a few small patches of forest. .... Like the Happy Valley of Rasselas, it was surrounded by the most wild and rugged mountains, which rose in endless succes- sion one behind the other, stretching away in the distance, till they resembled a foint blue wave in the horizon." (Ballantyne.) " Nothing can be more picturesque than the landscape which may be viewed ftom the crest of Cap au Corbeau. Have you courage to clamber up the long slopes of Cap au Corbeau ; to see the white-sailed schooners at the entrance of the bay ; to comprehend the thousand divers objects at your feet ; the sinuous course of the Mar^ and of the serpentine Gouf^ ; on the S. the old mansions and rich pas- tures ; to see the church and convent and the village, the Gap k la Rey, the bottom of the bay ; and, farther away, the shores of St. Antoine Perou, St. Jerome, St. John, St. Joseph, and St. Flavien ? " (Trudelle.) The Bay was settled early in the 17th century, and has always been noted for its ISLE AUX COUDRES. RouU 7f. 293 -?^--, Mrthqnakes nnd Toleanie disturhancefl. In October, 1870, it felt rach a serero shock that nearly eyery house in the valley was damaged. In 1759 the village was destroyed by Oorham'b New-England Rangers, after the inhabitants had defended It for two hours. " Above the Oulph I have just mentioned is the Bay of St. Paid, where the Hab- itations begin on tbe North Side ; and there are some Woods of Pine-Trees, which are much valued ; Here are also some red Pines of great Beauty. Messrs. of the Seminary of Quebfc are Lords of this Bay. Six Leagues higher, there is a very high Promontory, which terminates a Chain of Mountains, which extend above 400 Leagues to the West ; It is called Cape Tourmenle, probably because he that gave it this Name, suffered here by a Oust uf Wind.'* (Charlgvoix.) The W. promontory of St. Paul's Bay is C&pe Labaie ; that on the E , opposite the Isle aux Coudres, is Cape Corbeau. " This cape has something of the migestio and of the mournful. At a little distance it might be taken for one of the immense tombs erected in the middle of the Egyptian deserts by the vanity of some puny mortal. A cloud of birds, children of stormj wheel continually about its flr- erowned brow, and seem, by their sinister croaking, to intone the funeral of some dying man." Between St. Paul's Bay and the Isle aux Coudres is the whirlpool called Le Gouffre^ where ili» water suddenly attains a depth of 30 fath- oms, and at ebb-tide the outer currents are repulsed from Coudres to Cor- beau in wide swirling eddies. It is said that before the Gouffre began to fill with sand schooners which were caught in these eddies described a series of spiral curves, the last of which landed them on the rocks. It was the most dreaded point on this shore, and many lives were lost here; but its navigation is now safe and easy. The Isle aux Coudres is hi M. long and 2^ M. wide, and is a charm- ing remnant of primitive Norman life. It has about 800 {'.habitants, ea- gaged in farming, and more purely mediaeval French than any other people in Canada. The houses are mostly along the lines of the N. W. and S. E. shores; and the Church of St. Louis is on the S. W. point. The island is still owned by the Seminary of Quebec, to which it was granted in 1687. Large numbers of porpoises are caught between this point and the Rivl6re Quelle, on the S. shore. Bayard Taylor says: " The Isle aux Coudres is a beautiful pastoral mosaic in the pale emerald setting of the river." Off the Isle aux Coudres, and between that point and Rivi&re Ouelle, great num- bers of white whales are caught, in fish-pounds made for the purpose. These fish (often taken for porpoises) live in the Lower St. Lawrence from April to October, when they migrate to tbe Gulf and the Arctic Ocean. They are firom 14 to 22 ft. in length, and yield 100-120 gallons of fine oil, which is much used for lighthouse purposes, because it does not freeze in winter. A valuable leather is made flrom their skins. When Cartier was advancing up the St. Lawrence in 1635, under the direction of the Quebec Indians whom he had abducted from Qasp ', he landed on this island, and, marvelling at the numerous haisel-trees upon the hills, named it Visit aux Coudres (Hazel-tree Island). This point he made the division between the country of Suguenay and that of Canada. " In 1663 an Karthqualie rooted up a Mountain, and threw it upon the Isle of Coudres^ which was made one half larger than before, and in the Place of the Mountain there appeared a Gulf, which it is not safe to approach." • The island was deserted by its inhabitants in the summer of 1759, when great British fleets were anchored ofT the shores, but several boats' crews were driven from the strand by rangers. Three British officers landed on the idle, carrying a flag 204 Route 7t MURRAY BAY. wUoh they were a^ut to raise on the chief eminence before the fleet ; but they were cut off by a small party of Canadians, and were led prisoners to Quebec. Ad- miral Durell first reached the island, with 10 frigates, and captured 8 french yes- sels bearing 1,800 barrels of powder. The steamer runs S. E. for several miles in the narrow channel between the Isle aux Condres and the mountains of the N. Shore. At 11 M. from St. Paul's Bay it rounds in at the pier (920 ft. long) of the parish of Las ^iboalements, h farming district of 2,400 inhabitants. '* High on the crest of the Laurentides, old as the world, the tourist sees on the N., on landing at thellboulements pier, the handsome parish-church." The situa- tion of this village is one of the most quaint and charming on the river, and overlooks the St. Lawrence for many leagues. The white houses are grouped snugly about the tall Notre Dame Church, above which the dark peak of Mt. Eboulements rises to the height of 2,547 ft. Tn the vicinity of Les £boulements are visible the tracks of the great land-slides of 16fi3, in that season when so many marvellous phenomena were seen in Canada. The St. Lawrence ran "white as milk," as far down as Tadousac ; ranges of hills were thrown down into the river, or were swallowed up in the plains ; earthquakes shat- tered the houses and shook the trees until the Indians said that the forests were drunk ; vast fissures opened in the ground ; and the courses of streams were changed. Meteors, fiery-winged serpents, and ghastly spectres were seen in the air ; roarings and mysterious voices sounded on every side ; and the confessionals of all the churches were crowded with penitents, awaiting the end of the world. The steamer now rounds the huge mass of Mt. Eboulements, passing the rugged spurs called Goose Cape and Cape Corneilie. On the E. slope is seen the large village of St. Iren§e, where 900 French people preserve their ancient customs and language. A few miles farther E. the steamer rounds in at Murray Bay. Murray Bay is the favorite summer resort of the N. Shore, and has fine facilities for boating and bathing, with a long firm beach. It is also one of the best fishing-centres in the Province, and sportsmen meet with success in the waters of the beautiful Murray River, or the Gravel and Petit Lakes. The steamer stops at the long wharf at Point a Pique^ near which are iSs hotels, frequented in summer by many Quebec families, who enjoy tli j beautiful scenery of the adjacent country. There are also sum- mer co'.tages about the base of Cap a VAirjl. The tourists occupy Point a Pique with their hotels, and make excursions to the lakes and the falls. The French town is at the bridge over the Murray River, and is cl.;stered about the great church and the court-house of Charlevoix County. It has 3,000 inhabitants. " Of all the picturesque parishes on the shore of our grand river, to which innu- merable swarms of tourists go every summer to take tiie waters, none will interest the lover of sublime landscapes more than Malbaie. One must go there to enjoy the rugged, the grandeur of nature, the broad horizons. He will not lind here the beau- tiful wheat-fields of Kamouraska, the pretty and verdurous shores of Cacounu or Rimouski, where the languorous citizen goes to strengthen hi:* energies during the dog-days ; here is savnge and uuconquered nature, and view-points yet more luajes- tic than those of the coasts and walls of Bic. Precipice on precipice ; impenetrable gorges iu the projections of the rocks ; peaks which lose themselves in the clouds, and among which the bears wander through July, iu search of berries; where the RIVlfiRE DU LOUP. Route 7t 295 caribou browses in September; where the solitary crow and the rojral eaele make their nests in May ; in shorty alpine landscapes, the pathless highlands of Scotland, a Byronic nature, tossed about, heaped up in the North, far fVom the ways of cir- ilized men, near a volcano that ftrom time to time awakens and shakes the country in a manner to frighten, but not to endanger, the romantic inhabitants. According to some, in order to enjoy all the fulness of tnese anstere beauties, one must be at the privileged epoch of life. If then you wish to taste, in their full features, the dreamy solitudes of the shores, the grottos, the great forests of Point di i*ique or Cap a I'Aigle, or to capture by hundreds the frisking trout of the remote Gravel Lake, you must have a good eye, a well-nerved arm, and a supple leg." (LbMoinb. ) This district was formerly known as the King's Farm, and had 30 houses at the conquest of Canada. It was then granted to the Scottish officers, Mt^or Nairn and Malcom Eraser, who soon promoted its settl nent. It was explored in June, 1608» by Champlain, who named it Malle Bale, on account of " the tide which runs there marvellously, and, even though the weather is calm, the bay is greatly moved." It is still generally known as Malbaie, though the English use the came Murray Bay, given in honor of the general who granted it to the Scots. The Scotch fSimilies brought out by Fraser and Nairn are now French in language and customs. A depot for American prisoners-of-war was established here in 1776, near tlie Nairn manor-house, and the ba,rracks were built by the captives themselves. The great French settlement of St. Agnes^ with 1,600 inhabitants, is 9 M. W. of Murray Bay, up the valley, and on the verge of the wide wilderness of the Crown Lands. A rugged road foilows the N. sho'B from Murray Bay to the S^^enay River, a distance of about 40 M., passing the romantic St. Fidele (9 M. out ; l,OtiO inhabitants), the lumbering village of Port au Persil, the hamlets of Black River, Port aux Quilles, St. Simm this point to St. John and Halifkx, and the New« Brunswick Railway is being pushed hitherward up the St. John Valley (see page 49). This domain waa granted by the Compegnie des Indos Occidentales to the Sieur de la Chesnoye in 1673. It is said that its name in derived from the fiict that in former years gieat droves of pe8l8(/ot(p5-7narin.t) frequented the shoals at the mouth of the river, mitking a remarkable uproar at night. A persiHtent attempt has been made to call this town FraservH'f., in honor of the Frasers, who are its i>eigniers. The numerous Frasers of this Province met at Quebec in 1868 to re-form their ancieut Scottish c1pi organization, and to name Provincial, county, and parish chieftains. The heau-chief is entitled The Fmser, and is the Hon. John Fraser de Berry, " 6Sth descp id' Mt of Jules de Berry, a rich and powerful lord, who gave a sumptuous feast to :hc ' mperor Charlemagne and his numerous suite, at his castle in Normandy, ii he oth century " The solemn Scots maintain that De Berry then regaled Charlemagne with strawberries {/raises. In the French language), and that the Emperor was so greatly pleased tha^. he ordered that he should thenceforth be known as Fraiser de Berry, and from him the Clan Fraser traces its name aad descent. Caooana is 6 M. from Riviere du Loup, and is the chief summer resort of Canada. The ♦ St. Lawrence Hall is the most fashionable hotel, and accommodates 600 guests, at $2,50-3 a day. The Mansion Hotiae charges $1.50 a day, and accommodates 150 guests. There are several summer boarding-houses whose rules are still lower. The traveller who visits Gacouna irom Kivi^re du Loup must be on his guard against the extortions of the carriage-drivers, who frequently demand exorbitant fares. Twenty years ago Cacouna was nothing; it is now filled with great ho- tels and boarding-houses, and adorned with many summer cottages. It is visited by thousands of Canadians, and also by many Americans "fuyant le ciel corrosif de New- York." Here may be seen the Anglo-Canadian girls, who are said to combine the physical beauty and strength of the English ladies with the vivacity and brilliancy of the Americans. The amusements of the village are like those of similar places farther S., — sea-bathing and fishing, driving, and balls which extend into the small hours. The beach is good, and the river-views from the heights are of famed beauty. There is a pretty lake back among the hills, where many trout are found The great specialties of Cacouna are its pure cool air and brilliant north- ern scenery. It is sometimes found too cold, even in August, during rainy weather, for the American visitors, who then hurry away in crowds. The peninsula of Cacouna is a remarkable mass of rock, nearly 400 ft. high, which is connected with the mainland by a low i.sthmus. Its name was given by the Indians, in allusion to its form, and signifies "the tur- tle." The village is French, and has 700 inhabitants, and Anglican, Meth- odist, and Kom;":! Catholic churches. 4^ M. distant is the populous parish of St, Arsene, and 8 M. S. is St. Modeste. From Riviere du Loup the steamer runs across to the Saguenay River, passing within 3-4 M. of Cacouna, and running between the Braudy Pots (1.) and Rec^ Island (see page 252). The Sagoonay Biver, see Route 73. THE SAGUENAY RIVER. R(mU7S. 297 73. The Sagaenay Biver. steamers leave Quebec for Ghicoutimi, the forthest port on the Saguenay, on Taeeday and Friday, at 7 A- M. (see page 291) ; and for Ua Ha Bay on Wednesday, Thui«day, and Saturday. They reach Tadousac by nightfall, and start on the re- turn from Ghicoutimi the next morning. Distances' — Quebec to Tadousac, 134 M. ; Tadousac to Riviere St. Marguerite, 15 ; St. Louis Islets, 19 ; Riviere auz Canards, 23 ; Little Saguenay River, 27 ; St. John's Bay, 32 ; Eternity Bay, 41 ; Trinity Bay, 48 ; Cape Rouge 56 ; Cape East, 63; Cape West, 65; St. Alphonse, 72 ; St. Fulgence, 95; Chicoutimi, 100. This itinerary is based on that of the steamship company and is not correct, but will be ui*eful in marking approximations to the relative distances between the points on the river. There is no other table of distances accessible. Imray's Sailing Diret' tions (precise authority ) says that it is 65 M. from the St. Lawrence to Chicoutimi. The ** Saguenay River is the chief tributary of the Lower St. Law- rence, and is the outlet of the great Lake St. John, into which 11 rivers fall. For the last 50 M. of its course the stream is from 1 to 2^ M. wide, and is bordered on both sides by lofty precipices of syenite and gneiss, which impinge directly on the shores, and are dotted with stunted trees. Along their slopes are the deep lines of glacial striations, telling of the passage of formidable icebergs down this chasm. The bed of the river is 100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence, a difference which is sharply marked at tlie point of confluence. The shores were stripped of their forests by a great fire, in 1810, but there are large numbers of hemlock and birch trees in the neighboring glens. The river is frozen from the St. Louis Isles to Ghicoutimi during half the year, and snow remains on the hills until June. The awful majesty of its unbroken mountain-shore3,.the profound depth of its waters, the absence of life through many leagues of distance, have made the Saguenay unique among rivers, and it is yearly visited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief curiosities of the West- ern World. " The Saguenay is not, properly, a river. It is a tremendous cha-sm, like that of the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for 60 M through the heart of a mountain wilderness No magical illusions of atmosphere enwrap the scenery of this northern river. Everything is hard, naked, stern, silent. Durk-gray cliffs of granitic gneiss rise from the pitch-black water ; flrs of gloomy green are rooted in their crev- ices and fringe their summits ; loftier ranges of a dull indigo hue show themselves in the background, and over all bends a pale, cold, northern sky. The keen air, which bring'' out every object with a crystalline distinctness, even contracts the di- mensions of the scenery, diminishes the height of Mie clifBi, and apparently belittles the majesty of the river, so that the first feeling \a one of disappointment. Still, it exercises a fascination which you cannot resist. You look, and look, fettered by the fresh, novel, savage stamp which nature exhibits, and at last, as in St. Peter^s or aU Niagara, learn from the character of the separate features to appreciate tlie grandeur, of the whole Steadily upwards we went, the windings of tlie river and its vary- ing breadth — ftvm ^ M to nearly 2 M. — giving us a shifting succession of tiiu grandest pictures. Shores that seemed roughly piled together out of the fras;ment3 of chaos overhung us, — great masses of rock, gleaming duskily through th«ir scanty drapery of evergreens, here lifting long irregular walls against the sky, there split into huge, fantastic forms by deep lateral gorges, up which we saw the dark-blue crests of loftier mountains in the rear. The water beneath us was black as night, with a pitchy glaze on its surface ; and the only life in all the savage solitude was, now and then, the back of a white porpoise, in some of the deeper coves The river is a reproduction — truly on a contracted scale — of the fiords of the Norwegian 13* 298 JRouteTS. THE SAGUENAY RIVER. coast The dark inoantalns, the tremendous precipices, the flr forests, eren the settlements at Ha Ha Bay and L'Anse k I'Ean (except that the houses are white in- stead of red) are as completely Norwegian as they can be. The Scandinavian skip- pers who come to Canada all notice this resemblance, and many of them, I learn, settle here." (Batard Taylor.) •' From Ha Ha right down to the St. Lawrence, you see nothing but the cold, black, gloomy Saguenay, rolling between two straight lines of rocky hills that rise steeply from the waters edge. These hiUs, though 8t,oep, are generally roughly rounded in ohape, and not abrupt or faced with precipices. This makes the Ecenery differ firom that with which it has been often compared, the boldest of the fiords of Norway. Over the rugged hills of the Saguenay there is generally enough of earth here and there lodged to let the gray rock be dct'td over with a dark-gTeen sprink- ling of pine-trees. Perhaps there is' hardly a spot on the Saguenay, which, taken by itself, would not impress any lover of wild nature by its grandeur, and evcu sublimify ; but after sailing for 70 miles downvt^ards, parsing rocky hill nfter rocky bill, rising one beyond the other in monotonously straight lines alongside of vou; .... s«fter vainly longing for some break in these twin imprisoning walls, which might allow the eye the relief of wandering over an expanse of country, — you will begin to compare the Saguenay in no kindly spirit to the Rhine It is a cold, savage, inhuman riTer, fit to take rank with Styx and Acheron ; and, into the bargain, it is dull. For the whole 70 miles, you will no'. b« likely to see any li^:TJg thing on it or near it, outpidf- of your own steamer, not a house, inir a field, nor a sign of any sort that living things have ever been th'>;re." (Whitp i *' Sunlight and clear sky are out of p'ace over its black waters. Anything which recalls the life and smile of nature is n;i iu ui J on with the huge naked cliffs, raw, cold, and ^silent as the tombs. An Italion i^prhig could effect no change in the deadly, rugged aspect ; nor does winter add or e iota to its mournful desolation. It is with a sense of relief that the tcntrist ennv^es from its sullen gloom, and looks back upon it aa,a kind of vault, — Nntwre's farcophagus, where life or sound seems never to have entered. Compared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest ravines look cosey and smiling. It is wild without the least variety, and grand apparently in spite of itself ; while so utter is the solitude, so dreary and monoto- nous the fro>vn of its great black walls of rock, that the tourist is sure to get impa- tient with its sullen dead reverse, till he feels almost an antipathy to its very name. The Saguenay t-cems to want painting, blowing up, or draining, — anything, in short, to alter its morose, quiet, eternal awe. Talk of Lethe or the Styx, — they must have been purling brooks compared with this savage river ; and a picnic on the banks of either would be preferable to one on the banks of the Siaguenay." {London Times.) On Sept. 1, 1536, Tadousac was visited by the won cr-loving Cartier, with three vessels. He saw the Indians fishing off shore, and reported that, " in ascending the Saguenay, you rcr.ch a country where there f re men dressed like us, who live in cities, and have much gold, rubies, and coppev." The river was visited by Roberval in 1543, and part of the expedition was los» . Thenceforward the country of the Saguenay was explored by the fur-traders and the fearless Jesuits. In 1603 Tadou- sac was visited by Champlain, around whose vessel tlie natives crowded in their canoes in order to sell or barter away their peltries. Seven years later a solemn and beau- tiful scene occurred at Point la Boule (the immense promontory which is seen 6 M. up-stream), when Champlain and Lescarbot attended the great council of the Montaignais. They were received with dignified courtesy by the Sagamore Anada- bijou, and conducted to the meeting of the warriors, where several grave and eloquent speeches were made while the pipe of peace was passed around. The Montaignais at that time numbered 9 tribes, '2 of which dwelt along the river, and the other 7 occupied the vast area towards Hudson's Bay and the land of the Esqui- maux. Their last Sagamore, Simeon, died in 1849, and had no successor, and the poor remnant of the nation now obtains a precarious living by beggary, or has with- drawn into the fastnesses of the North. The present name of the river is a modifi- cation of the original Indian word Saggishsikuss, which means "a river whose banks are precipitous." In 1671 the heroic and self-nbnegating Jesuit, Pere de Crepieul, founded the mis- sion at Tadousac, where he remained for 26 years, parsing the winters in the ivxetched huts of the savages. Before this time (in 1661) the Fathers Druillettes and TADOUSAC. JtouU 73. 299 [he mis- in the ktesand Dablon had ascended the river to Lalce St. John and there had baptized many In- diaofl, and founded the mission of St. Francois XaTier. The Montaignaia are still in the Catholic faith, and each fumily has its prayer-book and breVuiry, in which they are able to read. In 1671 Father Albanel asceuded the Si^uenay from TadoU' sac, by order of Intendant Bigot, and passed N. to Hudson's Bay by way of the great lalcus of St. John and Mistaseini. The coun'ory about the Upper Saguenay was then weH known to the zealous churchmen, hue after the decline of the missions it was for^-otten. About 50 years ago the Canadian government had it re-explored by efHcient otHcers, and this remote region is now being occupied by French-Canadian h&mlett^, Vhe chief business on the river is the exportation of lumber, whicli i» Bbii?ped frciQi Chicoutimi in immense quantities. Tadousao is a small village, prettily situated oimi semicircular terrace surrounded with mountains and fronting on a small harbor, deep and secure. The St. Lawrence is here about 24 M. wide, and the mountains of the S. shore are visible, while on clear days the view includes the white villaffea of Cacouna and Riviere du Loup. The * Tadouaac Hotel ($2.60 a ff vy) is a spacious establisliment on the bluff over the beach. It was founded in 1865 by a joint-stock company, and has been successful. The sea-bathing is very good, although the water is cold, and sea-trout are caught off the shore. The old buildings of the Hudson's Bay Company are near the hotel, and on the lawn before them is a battery of antiquated 4-pounders. E. of the hotel is the old * chapel of the Jesuit mission, which was erected in 1746 on the site of a still more ancient church. The summer cottages are near the shore, and are cheerful little buildings. The Earl of Dufferin, late Governor-General of Canada, erected a handsome house here. The scenery of the landward environs is described in tLo Indian word Tadausac, which means knobs or mamelons. *< Tadousac is placed, like a nest, in the midst of the granite rocks that surround the mouth of the Saguenay. The chapels and the buildings of the post occupy the edge of a pretty plateau, on the sutnmit of an escarped height So perched, these edifices dominate the narrow strip of fine sand which sweeps around at their feet. On the r. the view plunges into the profound waters of the sombre Saguenay ; in front, it is lost in the immense St. Lawrence. All around are mountains covered with flr-treet> and birches. Through the opening which the mighty river has cut through the rock, the reefs, the islands, and south shores are seen. It is a delicious place " (Tache.) 4 M. E. of Tadouaac is the harbor of Moulin d Baude, where are large beds of white marble; Charlevoix anchored here in the Chameau (in 1700), and was so en- thusiastic over the discovery that he reported .'hat " nil this country is full of mar- ble." Pointe Rouge, the S. E. promontory before Tadousac, is composed of an in- tensely hard red granite The shore extends to the N. E. to the famous shooting- grounds of Mille yaches,tl\e trout-stream of the Laval River, and the Hudson's Bay post of Betsiamitis (see page 233). In the year 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac by Pontgniv^ and Ghauvin, to whom this country had been granted. They built storehouses and huts, and left 16 men to gather in the furs from the Indians, but several of these died and the rest fled into the forest. Two subsequent attempts within a few years ended as disastrously. In 1628 the place was captured by Admiral Kirke, and in 1632 his brother died here. In 1658 the lordship of this district, was given to the Sieur De- maux, with the dominion over the country between Eboulements and Cape Cor- morant. Three years later the plai;'e was captured by the Iroquois, and the f^rrison was massacred. In 1690 three French frigates, tkearing the royal treasure to Quebec, were chased in here by Sir William Phipps's New-England fletft. They formed bat- teries on the Tadousac shores, but the Americans were unable to get their vessel! 300 JtouU 7S. CHICOUTIMI. op through the swift carrentfi, and the French fleet was MTed. The tradine-poit and misDum were kept up with advantage. Charlevoix visited the place in 1720, and says: " The greatest Part of our Qeographera have here placed a Town, but where there never was but one French houre, and some huts of Savnges who came there in the Time of the Trade and who carried away their Huts or Booths, when they went away ; and this was the whole matter. It is true that this Port has been a long Time the Resort of all the Savage Nations of the North and East, and that the French reported thither as soon as the Navigation was free both from France and Canada ; the Missionaries also made Use of the Opportunity, and came to trade here for Heaven. And when the Trade was over, the Merchants returned to their Homes, the Savages took the Way to their Villages or Forests, and the Gospel Labourers fol- lowed the last, to compleat their Instructions." The steamer leaves Tadousac during the evening, and ascends the river by night, when, if the sky is unclouded, there are beautiful effects of star- light or moonlight on the frowning shores. The return trip down the river is made the next day, and the full power of the scenery is then felt. This description of the river begins, therefore, at the head of navif,ation, and follows the river downward, detaching the detour into Ha Ha Bay, for the sake of continuity. Chicontimi (good hotel) is the capital of Chicoutimi County, and has 1,935 inhabitants. It is situated at the head of navigation on the Saguenay, and is the great shipping-point of the lumber districts. Over 40 ships load here every year, most of them being squarely built Scandijiavian vessels. The trade amounts to $ 500,000 a year, and is under the control of Senator Price of Quebec, who has fine villas at Chicoutimi and Tadousac, and is known as * the King of the Saguenay." The powerful house of Price Brothers & Co. owns most of the Saguenay country, and has estab- lishments on the Lower St. Law^rence and in England. Their property in mills, buildings, and vessels is of immense value. Over the steamboat- pier is the new college, built of stone, about an open quadrangle. Near b}' are the cathedral and the convent of the Good Shepherd. Beyond the town the court-house is seen, on the dark slope of a high hill; and the white ribbon of the * Chicoutimi Falls is visible to the 1. The Chicoutimi River here falls 40 - 50 ft., just before entering the Saguenay. This stream affords fine sport for the fisherman, and contains great numbers of fish re- sembling the land-locked salmon, or grilse. Chicoutimi signifies " deep water," and was so called by the Northern Indians who here first encountered the profound depths of the Saguenay. There is fine fishing about the falls and the adjacent rapids (permission must be obtained, and is often granted in courtesy to strangers). The ancient .Tesuit chapel and the Hudson's Bay Company's post were situated near the confluence of the two rivers, and within the chapel (which remained until recently) was the tomb of Father Cccquart, the last of the Jesuit missionaries. A strong mission was founded here in 1727, by Father Labrosse, and many Indians were converted. St. Anne du Saguenay is a village of 200 inhabitants, on the high bank of the river opposite Chicoutimi. Lake St. John is about 60 M. W. of Chicoutimi, and is reached by a good road, which passes through Jon- qui^re, Kenogami, and Hebertville (1,200 inha'oitants). The Rapida of Terres Bompues^ on the Saguenay River, are o M. above Chicoutimi. LAKE ST. JOHN. Haute 73, 301 " These rapids extend 8 M.; then there are 8 M. of smooth water; then a second rapid of terrific strength; then 10 M. of still water; then 2 M. of rapids; then | M. of still water. FiDally, there succeed the mighty rush and uproar of the Grand D^charge, mingling with the foam and tumult of the Petit D^charge. These empty tlie waters of the Grand St. John Lake, and sweeping around a rugged island with terrific and unnatural force, unite, and rage, contend, and finally melt and settle down into the quiet mood of the still water below." In this part of the river is found the winninish, or Northern charr, a game-fish whose pink meat is con- sidered a greater delicacy than brook-trout or salmon. L>ake St* John waa discovered in 1647 by Father Duquen, the missionary at Tadousac, 'who was the first European to ascend the Saguenay to its source. It was then called by the Indians Picouagami, or Flat Lake. Several Jesuit mis- sionaries soon passed by this route to the great Nekouba, where all the northern tribes were wont to meet in annual fairs ; and in 1672 Father Albanel advanced from Tadousac, by Lake St. John and Lake Mistassini, to the Mer du Nord, or Hud- son's' fidy. A Catholic mission was founded on the lake, at Metabetchuan, and posts of the Hudson's Bay Company were also established here. The lake is of great area, and receives the waters of 8 large rivers, the chief of which is the Mis^ tassini, flowing down 250 M. from Lake Mistassini, which is 76 X 90 M. in area. The water is shallow, and is agitated into furious white waves by the N. W. winds. To the N. and W. is a vast region of low volcanic mountains and dreary lands of low spruce forests. The soil along the lake-shores is said to be a fertile allu- vium, capable of nourishing a dense population ; but the winters are long and ter- rible. 20 years ago there were no settlements here except the Hudson's BJay posts ; now there are ntunerous villages, the chief of which are Roberval, Biviire i. I'Ouxs, and St. Jerome. Mr. Price, M. P., states that a missionary has recently discovered, high upon the Saguenay (or on the Mistassini), an indent French fort, with intrenchments and stockades. On the inside were two cannon, and several broken tombstones dating from the early part of the 16th century. It is surmised that these remote memorials mark the last resting-place of the Sieur Roberv.'^l, Qovernor-General of Canada, who (it is supposed) sailed up the Saguenay in 1543, and was never heard from after- wards. The Robervals were favorites of King Francis I., who called one of them " the Petty King of Yiemen," and the other, '' the Gendarme of HannibaL" They were both lost on their last expedition to America. In descending the Saguenay iiom Chicoutimi to Ha Ha Bay, the scenery is of remarkable boldness, but is less startling than the lower reaches of the river. Soon after leaving the village the steamer passes the pretty villa and the Anglican church pertaining to Senator Price. Below this point is a line of hills of marly clay; and Cape St. Francois soon rears its dark crest on the 1. bank. The river widens rapidly, and the hamlet of St. Fulgence is seen on the 1., near Pointe Roches. Beyond the ponderous walls of High Point is another broad reach, with small islets under the 1. bank. The steamer now runs between the frowning promontories of Cape East and Cape West, and passes the entrance to Ha Ha Bay. * Ha Ha Bay runs 7 M. S. W. from the Saguenay, and is ascended be- tween lofty and serrated ridges, bristling with sturdy and stunted trees. So broad and stately is this inlet that it is said that the early French explorers ascended it in the belief that it was the main river, and the name originated from their exclamations on reaching the end, either of 302 McmU 7S. HA HA BAT. amusement at their mistake or of pleasure at the beautiful appearance of the meadows. After running for several miles between the terraced cliffs of Cape West (on the r.) and the opposite ridges, the steamer enters a wide haven whose shores consist of open intervale-land, backed by tall blue heights. The entrance is 4 M. lor.,', 1 M. wide, and 100 fathoms deep, and the haven can be reached by ships of the line without difficulty. It is expected that this bay will be the great port of "the hyperborean Latin nation" which is fast settling the Upper Saguenay and Lake St. John country. Large quantities of lumber are loaded here upon British and Scandinavian ships, and a flourishing trade is carried on in the autumn by sending farm-produce and blueberries to Quebec, — the latter being packed in coffin-shaped boxes and sold fur iiO - 40 cents a bushel. The steamer touches at St. Alphome (Bagotville), a small French village, with a church and a comfortable hotel. Calashes run from the pier to St. Altxis (Grande Bale), 3 M. off, around tlie bay, crossing the Riviere a MarSf famous for its salmon-fisheries (rights may easily be bought or leased). 3 M. from the ba}', near the falls of Mars River, are the three Gravel L^kes, famous for immense and delicious red trout. The mail-road is prolonged from St. Alexis, through the uninhabited wii(lern"ss of the Crown Lands, to St. Urbain and St. Paul's Bay (see page 292). « The long line of sullen hills had fallen away, and the morning sun shone warm on what in a friendlier climate would have been a Tery lovely landscape. The bay was an irregular ovul, with shores that rof^e in bold but not lofty heights on one side, while on the other lay a narrow plain with two villages clinging about the road that followed the crescent beach, and lifting each the slender tin-clad spire of its church to sparkle in the sun. At the head of the bay was a mountainous top, and along its waters were masses of rocks, gayly painted with lichens and stained with metallic tiuts of orange and scarlet." i Howells.) 21 M. from Ha Ha Bay is Lac d la Belle Truite, and beyond is the Great Ila Ha Lake, among the mountains, with bold capes en- circling forests, and a pretty island. 6 M. from Belle Truite is the Little Ha Ua hake, on whose shore is a stupendous cliff nearly 2,000 ft. high- The blue peaks of the St. Margaret Mts. are about 30 M. from Fa Ha Bay, and sweep from Lake St. John to Hudson's Bay. Carriages may be taken from St. Alphonse to Chicoutimi (12 M.), and for longer excursions toward Lake St. John. After passing the dark chasm of Ha Ha Bay, Cape East is seen on the 1., . throwing its serrated ledges far out into the stream, and cutting oflf the retrospective view. Rugged palisades of syenite line the shores on both sides. " The procession of the pine-clad, rounded heights on either shore began shortly after Ha Ha Bay had disappeared behind a curve, and It hardly ceased, save at one point, before the boat re-entered the St. Law- rence. The shores of the river are almost uninhabited. The hills rise from the water's edge ; and if ever a narrow vale divides them, it is but to open drearier solitudes to the eye." Just before reaching Cape Rouge (1. bank) the rav ne of Descente des Femmes opens to the N., deriving its singular name from a tradition that a party of Indians were starving, in the back-country, and sent their squaws for help, who descended to the river through this wild gorge and secured assistance. ETERNITY BAY. RouU7S, 303 On the r. bank is * Le Tableau, a cliff 900 ft. high, whose riverward face contains a broad sheet of dark limestone, 600 X 800 ft. in area, so smooth and straight as to suggest a vast canvas prepared for a picture. Still farther down (r. bank) is " * Statue Point, where, at about 1,000 feet above the water, a huge, rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave, in which, as yet, the foot of man has never trodden. Before the entrance to this black aperture, a gigantic rock, like the statue of some dead Titan, once stood. A few years ago, during the winter, it gave way, and the monstrous statue came crashing down through the ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the entrance to the cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages.*' The steamer soon passes Cape Trinity on the r. bank, and runs in close to ** Eternity Bay, which is a narrow cove between the majestic cliffs of Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity. The water is 150 fathoms deep, and the cliffs descend abruptly into its profoundest parts. * Cape Trinity consists of three vast superimposed precipices, each of which is 5-600 ft. high, on whose faces are seen two remarkable profiles. The echo in the bay is wonderful, and is usually tested by discharging a gun or blow- ing a whistle. (In recent maps and descriptions the name of Eternity has been given to the N. cape, and Trinity to the other. This is not correct, for the N. cape was named La TiiniU by the Jesuits on account of its union of three vast sections into one mountain. It is known by that name among the old pilots and river-people. The Editor has substituted the correct names in the ensuing quotations.) " The masterpiece of the Saguenay is the majesty of its two grandest bulwarks, — Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity, — enormous masses of rock, 1,500 feet high, rising sheer out of the black water, and jutting forward into it so as to shelter a lit- tle bay of the river between their gloomy portals. In the sublimity of their height and steepness, and in the beautiful effect against the rock of the pine-trees which here and there gain a dizzy foothold, nestling trustfully into every hollow on the face of the tremendous precipice, these capes can iiardly l)e surpassed by any river- scene in the world." (>Vhite.) " Suddenly the boat rounded the comer of the three steps, each 500 ft- high, in which Cape Trinity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side of the awful cliff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretching upward with a weary, effort-like aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep seams from space to space, till, 1,500 ft. in air, its vast brow beetles forward, and frowns with a scattering fringe of pines The rock fully justifies its attributive height to the eye, which follows the upward rush of the mighty acclivity, steep after st^p, till it wins the cloud-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems to swing and sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that besets him who looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly grim and stern j no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. At the foot of Cape Trinity the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a black expanse, in the rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and desolation, and issues again in its river's course around the base of Cape Eternity. This is yet loftier than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the stream, and from foot to crest it is heavily clothed with a forest of pines. The woods that hitherto have shagged the hills with a stunted and meagre growth, showing long stretches scarred by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble themselves compactly upon the side of the mountain, setting their serried stems one rank above another, till the summit is crowned with the mass of their dark green plumes, dense and soft and beautiM; 304 JtauU 73. ETERNITY BAY. lo that the ipirlt, perturbed by the spectacle of the other cliff, Is calmed and as- suaged by the ferene grandeur of this." (Howells's A Chance Acquaintance.) " These awful clitfs, plonted in water nearly a thousund feet deep, and Boaiinginto the very sky, form the gateway to a rugged valley, stretching inland, and covered with the dnrlc primeval forest of the North. I doubt whether a suhlimer picture of the wilderness is to be found on this continent The wall of dun-rolored syenitic granite, ribbed with vertical strealis of black, hung for a moment directly over our heads, as high as three Trinity spires atop of one another. Westward, the wall ran inland, prqjeoting bastion after bastion of inaccessible rock, over the dark forests in the bed of the valley." (Batard Taylor.) *' The wild scenery of tlie river culminates at a little inlet on the right bank be- tween Capes Trinity and Eternity. Than thei^e two dreadful headlands nothing can be imagined more grand and impressive. For one brief moment the rugged charac- ter of the river is partly softened, and, looking back into the deep valley between the capes, tlie land has an aspect of life and mild luxuriance which, though not rich, at least seems so in comparison with the grievous awful barrenness. Cape Eternity on |hi8 side towards the landward opening is pretty thickly clothed with fir and birch mingled together in a color contrast which is beautiful enough, especially where the rocks show out among them, with their little cascades and waterfalls like strips of silver shining in the sun. But Cape Trinity well becomes its name, and is the reverse of all this. It seems to frown in gloomy indignation on its brother for the weakness it betrays in allowing anything like life or verdure to shield its wild, uncouth deformity of strength. Cape Trinity certainly shows no sign of relaxing in this respect from its deep savage grandeur. It is one tremendous cliff of limestone, more than 1,500 feet high, and inclining forward more than 200 feet, brow-beating all beneath it, and seeming m if at any moment it would fall and overwhelm the deep black stream which flows so cold and motionless down below. High up, on its rough gray brows. a few stunted pines show like bristles their scathed white arms, giving an awful weird aspect to the mass, blanched here and there by the tempests of ages, stained and discolored by little waterfalls in blotchy and decaying spots. Unlike Niagara, and all other of God's great works in nature, one does not wish for silence or soli- tude here. Companionship becomes doubly necessary in an awful solitude like this." (London Times.') When the Flying Fish ascended the river with the Prince of Wales and his suite, one of her heavy 68-pounders was fired off near Cape Trinity. " For the space of half a minute or so after the discharge there was a dead silence, and then, as if the report and concu.ssion were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash upon crash. It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung into life under the tre- mendous din, and as if each was firing 68-pounders full upon us, in sharp, crushing volleys, till at last they grew hoarser and hoarser in their anger, and retreated, bellow- ing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded solitude from hill to hill, till all the distant mountains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion." St. John's Bay (r. bank) is 6 M. below Eternity Bay, and is shallow enough to afford an anchorage for shipping. It is 2 M wide and 3 M. long, and receives the St. John River. At its end is a small hamlet, situated in a narrow valley which appears beautiful in contrast with the surrounding cliffs. Far inland are seen the blue peaks of distant mountains. In the little cove opposite is the white thread of a lofty cascade. The Little Saguenay River (r. bank) is 4 M. below, and flows down out of a bristling wilderness where are famous Indian huntirg-grounds and pools filled with trout. A short distance below are the islets at the mouth of the Riviere aux Canards. The steamer then sweeps by the St. Louis Isle, a granite rock, ^ M. long, covered with firs, spruces, and birch-trees. There is 1,200 ft. depth of water around this islet, in which are multitudes of salmon-trout. On the r. bank are the massive promontories of Cape Victoria and Cape George. The * retrospect from this point affords one of the grandest views on the river. 2 M. below (1. bank) is seen the inter- .^ QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. Haute 74. 305 ▼bIm of the St. Marguerite River, the chief tributary of the Sagaenay, de-' sceuding from a lake far N. of Chicout[mi, and famous for its salmon-fisher- ies (leased). It is a swift stream, flecked with rapids, but is navigable for 20 M. by canoes; and flows from a valuable region of hard-wood trees. There are huts along the strand at its mouth, and vessels are usually seen at an- chor here; while far inland are bare and rugged ridges. The tall promon- tory beyond this river is seamed with remarkable trap-dikes, of a color approaching black; opposite which is the mouth of the St. Athanase. Beyond Point Crepe (r. bank) is the deep cove of St. Etienne Bay, afford- ing an ancliorage, and bordered with narrow strips of alluvial land. The steamer now sweeps rapidly down, between immense cliffs, and with but narrow reaches of the river visible ahead and astern. Beyond the Pa^e Pierre Ides (r. bank) it approaches a castellated crag on the r., opposite which is the frowning promontory called * Fointe la Boule, a vast granite mountain which narrows the channel to very close confines. From Pointe la Boule to Tadousac, the riverilows between escarped cliffs of feldspathic granite, with an appearance resembling stratification dipping to the S. E. Their lofly rounded summits are nearly barren, or at most support a thin fringe of low trees ; and the sheer descent of the sides is prolonged to a great depth beneath the water. The vessel calls at L'Anse a DEau, the little cove near Tadousac (see page 299); and soon afterwards steams out into the broad St. Lawrence, in the darkness of evening. The next morning, the traveller awakes at or near Quebec. 74. Quebec to Montreal— The St. Lawrence River. The river-route is by the steamboats of the Richelieu Companj, leaving Quebeo at evening. It is 69 M. from Quebec to Batiscan, 90 M. to Three Rivera, 135 M. to Sorel, and 180 M. to Montreal. The shortest route by rail between the two cities is the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa and Occidental Railway, along the North Shore. Stations. — Quebec to Lake St. John Junction. 4 M. ; Lorette, 8; Passe Para> dis, 14 ; Ste. Jeanne de Neuville, 26 ; St. Bazile, 30 ; Portneuf, 35 ; Deschambault, 89 ; Lachevroti^re, 42 : Grondines, 45 ; St. Anne de la Perade, 53 ; Batiscan, 58 ; Cham plain, 65 ; Piles Branch Junction, 75 ; Three Rivers R:, 78 ; Pointe du I^ac, 86; Yamachiche, 93; Louise Ville, 98 ; Maskinong^, 102; St. Barth^lemi, 108 ; St. Cuthbert, 111 ; Berthier, 116 ; Lanoraic Junction, 124 ; \a Yaltriu Road, 129 ; L'Assomption, 133; L'Epiphanie, 137; St. Henri de Mascouche, 145 ; Terrebonne, 149 ; St. Vincent de Paul, 155 ; Montreal, 170. The Grand Trunk Railway runs two trains daily between Quebec and Montreal. SKat/oTM— Quebec (Point Levi) ; Hadlow, 2 M. ; Chaudi^re Curve. 8 ; Craig's Road, 15; Black River, 20; Methot*s Mills, 28 ; Lyster, 37; Becancour, 41 ; Somerset, 49 ; Stanfold, 55 ; Arthabaska, 64 ; Warwick, 71 ; Danville, 84 ; Richmond, 96 ; New Durham, 103 ; Acton, 118 ; Upton, 124 ; Britannia Mills, 130 ; St. Hyacinthe, 137 ; Soixante, 144 ; St. Hilaire, 150 ; St. Bruno, 157 ; St. Hubert, 162 ; St. Lambert, 167 ; Montreal, 172. " It could really be called a village, beginning at Montreal and ending at Quebeo, which is a distance of more than 180 M. ; for the form-houses are never more than five arpents apart, and sometimes but three asunder, a few places excepted.'* (Kaim, the Swedish traveller, In 1749.) In 1684 La Hontan said that the houses along these shore* vere never more tlian a gunshot apart. The inhabitants are simple-minded and T 306 £ rice Valley to Grand Piles. There are large iron-works and machine- shops here, and stoves and car-wheels are made in great numbers from bog-iron ore. The chief industry is the shipment of lumber, which comes down the St. Maurice River. The Canadian government has expended $200,000 in improving the navigation on the St. Maurice, and over $1,000,000 has been invested in mills and booms above. The St. Maurice Biver waters a district of immense (and unknown) extent, abounding in lakes and forests. Portions of this great northern wilderness liave been visited by the lumbermen, who conduct ^fts to Three Rivers, where the lumber is sawed. About 22 M. above the city are the noble Falls of the Shawanegan, where the great river plunges over a perpendicular descent of ^50 ft. between the lofty rocks called La Grand'' Mere and Le Bonhomme. A few miles above are the Fa}l8 of the Grand' Mire. These falls are visited by engaging canoes and guides at Tliree Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian voyas;eurs or Algonquin Indians sometimes pass thence into ^.he remote northnrn forests in pursuit of the larger varieties of game. The head-waters of the St. j^Iaurice are interlocked with those of the Saguenay. Across the St. Maurice is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelame ; and on the S. shore are Becancour, the capital of Nicolet County, and St. Angel de Laval (Doucett's Landing), the terminus of a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway. The steamer soon enters Lake St. Peter, a shallow widening c f the river 22 M. long and 8 M. broad. It has a deep and narrow channel (partly ar- titiclal), which is marked out by buoys and poles, and is used by large vessels. Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward ly a ferry with Bou«- de I'lsle, a;id with Montreal (16 M. dis- tant) by a dall^ steamer. It has 825 inhabitants, and manufactures many ese, dis- : % f MONTREAL. 1 Giy Jim mnS JBmn -4». 2 JWt A. MJimericmn, -B* ifiJHmiy.- ..: 54^ \AJ^Jiunet'(Cnmj J. 8. \».^.<3!earo«/fMf/i C^- ZJJticCijittf >i ZauVolAmy.. 1' 9Ojifl0il^ei/. — — Motel<. ~ dlUCe.tAemMr'. ... . - 3».«^t^ - ^Sitbion . 1&: _1I.3. . B.x . JB.S- _ 1X4.. . B6. JDE^QODDDDDSDnDDDDaC I ssn n LJai__ IPS' WKfi r Bi3£ DDDR™ JUDDDdi □adcBBSSM LTP OK S^'^ I ■ I MONiniEAL. 2 JWt (Mim. JtA. 3. ComtJCmnm. — ^ 1^^ ejskAmit^.-,. a». ^ h.mVX9ty Schpvt #.4. 9.//lrytbtl Patmce C.8 — Churches. — ^ nJTalre Jfame t-& iZ.Cwtr {^stiiHJ., -D3. \h.Amfrie«n. 3* ViJhifaiy.- .-'. 5*. 17. Jl&CnJbw ^WmwitomrtrA. <1 •7«'»lfci.C(«4« — — »» - ^•*- ZM/oUtortV., i' M4. ^Jj^tee. Me J. . - K.X SUOmnnyJ^rac* B.S- WqaeeJ^Mmtr::. . . . BS — --Mo%el<. • , C5- IDaSDfflDODOQDliQanDDQ [i] om^- MONTREAL. JtmUe 75, 309 carriages. The chnrch is a large and stately building, with two conspien- ous towers. 1 M. from the village are the celebrated Varenne$ Spring$^ which are saline in character and possessed of valuable medicinal proper- ties. One of them emits great quantities of carbonated hydrogen gns, and the other yields 2-8 gallons a minute, and is much visited by invalids. Arrangements are being made to establish a first-cliiss summer resort at this point. Above Varennes is Boucherville, the birthplace of Chief Justice Sir Louis Hippolyte Lafontaine. The low and marshy islands off this shore are famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here at the close of the winter. Pointt aux Trembles is to the N., on the Island of Montreal, and is an ancient village dating from 1674. " We were gliding past LonKueuil and Boucherville on the (left), and Pointe aux jyemblex, ' so called from having been originally covered with aspens,^ on the (right). I repeat these names not merely for want of more substantial facts to record, but because they sounded singularly poetic in my ears. There certainly was no lie in them. They suggested that .some simple and perchance heroic human life might have transpired there. ' ' (Thoreau. ) Clustering villages are now seen on either shore, and the river is strewn with low islands. At 9 M. above Pointe aux Trembles the steamer reaches her pier at Moutreali with the magnificent Victoria Bridge spanning the river in front. 75. Montreal. Hotels. — * The Windsor, on Dominion Square, in an elevated and quiet part of the city, not far from tiie Muunt-Koyui Vurk, is uudoubtediy one of the most mag> nificeut hotels in America. Its arubitecture is very iuipo.siug, and witliiu it has a (iplendid frescoed rocunda, marble staircases, an imraeuse dining-hall, and hun- dreds of airy aud comfortable chambers, with hot and cold water, and all conven- ieuces. St. Lawrence Hull, 139 St. James St., is a comfortable hotel in the centre of the city, near the post-office and banks. The Albion, 141 MvUill St., is frequented by country merchants aud commercial men. The American is on St. Josepb St.,- and has many dealers in hordes and cattle among its patrons. The chief French hotels are tlie Richelieu, a well-kept house on St. Vincent St. ; and the Canada, on St. Gabriel St. Uotel-omnibuses inuet all trains and bouts. Kesttaurants. — Alexander's, 391 Notre Dame St. ; Freeman's, 231 St. James St. ; Compaiu'e', 116 St. Fran9()i8 Xavier St. ; The Bodega, 3tj6 Notre Dame St. ; Vic- tor's, 145 St. James St. ; Walker's, 872 Notre Dame St. Clubs. —Metropolitan, on Beaver Hall ; and St. James, on Dorchester St. Amusements. — Theatre Royal, 19 Cott«5 St., open usually during the sum- mer. Operatic and theatrical entertainments, in winter, at the Academy of Music, Victoria St . Lectures are given at the Association Hall, corner of Craig St. and Victoria Square. Lectures and other entertainments are also given at thti hall of the Mwihanics' Institute, 204 St. James St. Tlie Victoria Skating Rink, Drummond and Dorchester Sts., is famous for its winter carnivals. LiJicrosse, the Canadian national game, is played at the grounds on Sherbroo!ce St. We«t and St. Catherine St. West. Football, oiicket, golf, bicycling, fox-hunting, racket, lawn tennis, horse- THcing, tobogganing, snow-shoeing, curling, all have their devotees and their head- quarters The Thistle Rink in near the Crystal Palace. Readinar-Rooms.— Young Men's Christian As-sociation, Victoria Square; Merchants' Exchange. 11 St. Sacrament St. ; Mechanics' Institute, 204 St. Jamea St. ; Institut Caaa*Uen, 111 Notre Dome St. ; Union CathoUqae (20,000 vols.), St. Mary's Church. 310 Jtoute 75. MONTREAL. Post-Offlce, on St. James St., near St. Fran9ois Xavier St. Telegraph, central office of the Montreal Telegraph Company, corner of St. Sacrament and St. FraD9oia Xavier St^. J/onf^f/. — American and British gold and paper money passes at par, but silver is nt a diHcount. Carriages. — (One-horse.) For 1 - 2 persons, for 20 minutes, 25 cents; for ^ hr., 40c. ; by the hour, 75 c, and 60 c. for each additional hour. For 3-4 per- sons, for 20 minutes, or less, 60 c. ; for h hr.. 60 c ; by the hour, $ 1, and 75c. for each additional hour. (Two-horse carriages.) For 1-2 persons, for ^ hr., or less, 65 c. ; by the hour, .f 1. For 3-4 persons, for ,\ hr. , or less, 75c. ; by the hour, S \:^a. Fractions of hours charged i)ro rata. The tariff by the hour applies to all rural excursions, for which carriagesare engaged in the city. The legal tariff is augmented 60 per cent between midnigat and 4 a. m. Trunks and bo.xe!«, 10 c. each. Horse-cars run across the city on Craig, Dleury, and Sti Catherine Sts. ; also on St. Mary, Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; and out St. Lawrence Main St. to St. Jean Baptiste. Kail ways* —To Boston by way of St Albans, Concord, and Lowell, in 334 M. ; or by way of Fitchburg, in 344 M. ; or by the new route, the Southeastern Railway. To New York, by Rutland and Albany, 335 M. ( by Lake Champlain , 405 M. ) ; to Que- bec, 172 M. (in 7 hrs ) ; to Plattsburg, 63 M. ; to Rouse's Point, 50 M. ; to Toronto, 833 M. (14-15 hrs.) ; to Detroit (861 M.) and Chicago (1,145 M.) ; to Ottawa, 164 M. Stages run out from Montreal in all directions, daily. To St. C^saire, Marieville, and Chambly ; St. Eustache, St. Augu.stin, St. Scholastique, St. Columban, and St. Canut; New Glasgow, Kilkenny, St. Jerome, Stanbridge,St. Lin, St. Hippolyte, St. Agathe des Monts, St. Ad^le, St. Janvier, St. Th^rese de Blainville, St. Sophie ; St. Vincent de Paul, Mascouche, Terrebonne, and St. Sauveur ; Pointe aux Trembles, Bault au Recollet, and St. Martin. Steains1ti|»s. — The first-class ocean steamships of the .\llan Line and the Do- minion Line leave Montre.il 2-3 times weekly during the ?eason of navigation, for Liverpool and Glasgow. The Beaver, Donaldson, Temperk'v, Ross, Thomson, and Great Western Lines also run weekly and fortnightly steamships between Montreal and Liverpool, Glasgow, London, Bristol, and Newc;istl«-on-Tyne ; the White Cross Line, to Antwerp ; the Canadian and Bnizilian, to the We.st Indies and Brazil ; and the Montreal and Acadian, to St. John's, Newfoundland. The Richelieu Line runs daily steamers to the lower river-ports and Quebec. The morningandcvi.ning trains to Lachine connect with the steamboats for Ottawa, by way of the Ottawa Kiver. The vessels of the Canadian Navigation Compmy .ascend the St. Lawrence and Like On- tario, from Montreal to the upper river-ports, Toronto and Hamilton. The St. Helene and Oftaioa make semi-weekly trips to the Bay of Quint6. The Quebec S. S. Co. despatches a weekly steamer from Montreal to Perec, Charlottefown, and Pictou. The Chamhly runs .semi-weekly from Montreal to Verch^res, Contrecoeur, Sorel, St. Ours. St. Denis, St. Antoine, St. Charles, St. Marc, St. Hilaire, Beloeil, St- Matthias, and Chambly (flO M.). The Three Rwers runs semi-weekly to Verch^res, Sorel, Maskinong^, Riviere du Loup en Iiaut, Yamachiche, Port St. Francis, Champlain, and Three Rivers. The yier//tier runs .semi-weekly to Repentigny, St. Sulpice, Lavaltrie, Lanoraie, and Berthier. The Terrebonne runs daily to Bou- cherville, Varennes, Bout de I'Isle, Lachenaie, L'Assomption, and Terrebonne (24 M.). Ferry steamers cross the river at frequent interval to La Prairie, St. Lam- bert, and Longueuil. Montreal, the metropolis of the Dominion of Canada, and "the Queen of the St. Lawrence," is one of the most beautiful cities on the continent. It is situated on an island (at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Law- rence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and which, from its fertility, has been called the Garden of Canada. The St. Lawrence is 1^ M. wide opposite the city, and the rivei'-front is lined for over 1 M. with lofty and massive walls, quays, and terraces of gray limestone, unequalled else- where in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. Petersburg. The commercial buildings of the city are generally of stone, in plain and substan- ; MONTREAL. Route 75, 311 tial architecture, and the namber of fine public buildings is verj large. Three fourths of the population are Catholics, most of whom are French, and the bright suburban villages are almost entirely inhabited by Frenchmen. Although Montreal is 986 M. from the sea, it is the port which receives the greater part of the importations to Canada; and its manufacturing interests are extensive and important. The admirable systems of railway and steamboat communication which centre here, have made it the commercial emporium of the North; and new lines of traffic and internal railways are being built from year to year, binding all the St. Lawrence counties to this city. Montreal forms the Metropolitical See of the Anglican Church in Canada, and is the capital of a Roman-Catholic diocese. The water- supply, street-lamps, paving, and fire department are similar to tbose of American cities of the first rank. The population of Montreal was 140,747, at the census of 1881, and there are 60,000 more in the adjacent villages on the island. Of the citi- zens, 80,000 are French, 30,000 Irish, and 105,000 Roman Catholics. The valuation of real estate is about $65,000,000; its imports in 1880, $37,103,869 ; and its exports, $ 30,224,004. In the same year 710 vessels arrived here from the sea, and the customs revenue was $ 5,232,789. The city lias 19 banks, 74 churches, and more than 30 newspapers and magazines (in English and French). There are numerous charitable and benevolent organizations, and societies for the English, Scotch, Irish, French, Ger- man, and New-England residents. The Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of 'McGill and St. James Sts., ornamented with a fountain and a bronze statue of Queen Victoria. On its S. side is the elegant Gothic building which per- tains to the Young Men's Christian Association, the oldest society of that name in America. On the lower side of the Square are the stately Albert Buildings, devoted to commerce. Passing to the N. E. along St. James St., the visitor sees many fine stores, and the attractive buildings of *Molson's Bank (of Ohio stone and Scotch granite), the Merchants* Bank, the stately new * Post-Office, and other svmmetrical and solidiv constructed edifices. This street is the Broadway of Montreal. St. Peter St. runs to the S. E. by the stately Caverhill Buildings (of cut limestone in Italian Palazzo architecture) to St. Paul St-f the seat of an extensive wholesale trade. 0' Ite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank of Montreal (beyo..^ St. Francois Xavier St, the Wall St. of Montreal) the P/ace d'Armes is seen. This square was so named because it was the parade- ground of Montgomery's American army in 1775. Here is the lofty front of the *ChiirclL of Notre Dame, one of the largest churches on the conti- nent, with seats for 8,000 persons on the floor and 2,000 in the galleries. It is 2d5i ft. long and 144^ ft. wide, and has a chancel window of stained glass 312 Route 75. MONTREAL. 64 X 32 ft. in size. The interior is brilliantly and theatrically decorated. There are two towers on the front, each 220 ft. high, and, like the church, in the simplest form of medijeval Gothic architecture. One tower has a chime of bells, and in the other hangs " Gros Bourdon," the largest bell in America, weighing nearly 16 tons. The tower is generally open (fee of 25 c. to the door-keeper), and affbrda from its summit a noble * view of the city and its environs (especially of the city and river, the Victoria Bridge, and the islands). The suburbs of Laprairie, Longueuil, and St. Lambert, the .Lachine Rapids, and the blue mountains of Vermont, are seen from this point. Alongside the church is the ancient Seminary of St. Sulpice^ on the site of the Seminary of 1657, as the church is near the site of the Notre Dame of 1671. The present church was built in 1824-9, and was consecrated by the Bishop of Telmesse tn partibus. The semi- nary consists of low and massive buildings, surrounded with gardens and court-yards of spotless neatness. It has 24 priests connected with its various works. " I soon found my way to the Church of Notre Dame. I saw that it was of great size and signiQed something Coming from the hurrahing mob and t k- rattling carriages, we pushed back the listed door of this church, and found oiirFelves in- stantly in an atmosphere which might be sacred to thought and religion, if one had any It- was a great cave in the midst of a city ; and what were the altars and the tinsel but the sparkling stalactics, into which you entered in a moment, and where the still atmosphere and the sombre light disposed to serious and profitable thought ? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day, is worth a thousand of our churches which are open only Sundays." (Tuoreac.) Fronting on the Place d'Armes are the elegant Ontario Bank and the hall of the Grand Lodge of the Mfipons of Canada. A short distance to the E., on Notre Dame St., an archwny oi the r. adniits one to the extensive and secluded Convent of the Black Nuns (founded in 1657). Farther on, t'.e * Court House is seen on the 1., — a stately stone building in Ionic m I 'lecture (300 X 125 ft.), back of which is the Champ de Mars, or raiade Ground, an open space covering 28,800 square yards, and ample enough for the display' of 3,000 troops. The great structure fronting across Craig St. was built for the Dominion Military School, which is now estab- lished at Kingston. The costly and splendid new City Hall is on the E. side of the Champ de Mars. Just beyond the Court House the Jacques Cartier Square opens off Notre Dame St., and is encumbered with a dilapi- dated monument to Nelson (erected in 1808), and two Russian guns from Sebastopol. Near the head of this square, in the ancient French Govern- ment building, is the medical school of Laval University. The building dates from 1704, and was the headquarters of the American generals in 1775-76, and of the British governors until Montreal was decapitalized. By the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the * Bonsecours Mar- ket may be visited. This market is unrivalled in America, and is built of stone, in quasi-Doric architecture, at a cost of $300,000. It is three stories high, has a lofty dome, and presents an imposing front to the river. II MONTREAL. RouU76, 313 1 The cunous French costumes and language of the country people who congregate here on market-days, as well as some peculiarities of the wares offered for sale, render a visit very interesting. Alongside of the market is the Bonsecuurs Church (accommodating 2,000 persons), which was built in 1658. A short distance beyond is the Quebec railway station, on the site of the extensive Quebec-Gate Barracks ; and the Victoria Pier makes out into the stream towards St. Ilehn's hie, formerly a fortified depot of ammunition and war materiel, which was named by Champlain in honor of his wile. Tlie Isle is now a lovely marine park, Avith forts and barracks still standing, and is reached by a ferry-steamer from Bm occurs Market. To the N., ou Craig St., is the attractive Viger Gard' ith a small con- servatory and several fountains, fronting on whit ' '!(y Church (Episcopal), built of Montreal stone, in early English itrchitecture, and accommodating 4,000 persons. N. of Trinity, and mo oa fei. Denis St., is St. James Church (Catholic), in the pointed Gothic style, with rich stained glass. Some distance E. of Dalhousie Square, on St. Mary St., are Mol- son's College (abandoned) and St. Thomas Church (Episcopal), with the great buildings of Molson's brewery and the Papineau Market and Square (on which are the works of the Canadian Rubber Co. )• The suburb of Hochelaga (see page 318) is about 1 M. beyond the Papineau Square. MoGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria Square to the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in the intersecting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert Buildings are rich and massive, and just beyond is St. Ann's Market, on the site of the old Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of Elgin signed the obnoxious Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob, who also drove the Assembly from the Parliament House, and burnt the building. On ac- count of these riots, Montreal was decapitalized the same year. Com- missioners' St. leads E. by St. Ann's Market and the elegant Cmtom- Huuse to the broad promenades on the river-walls. Ottawa St. leads W. to the heavy masonry of the Lachine-Canal Basins and the vicinity of the Victoria Bridge. Radegonde St. and Beaver-Hall Hill run N. from Victoria Square, passing Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1853. The armed congregation repulsed the Catholic assailants twice, and then the troops restored order, 40 men having been killed or badly wounded. Just above is the Baptist Church, overlooked by the tall Church of the Messiah (Unitari- an), with St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to the r., Lagaucheti6re St. leads to St. Patrick's Churchy a stately Gothic build- ing 240 X 90 ft., accommodating 5,000 persons, and adorned with a spire 225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow lancet-windows are filled with stained glass. Near by, on Bleury St., are the massive stone buildings of St. Mary's College (Jesuit; 9 professors) and the ^Churoli of the Gesil. The nave of the church (76 ft. high) is bounded by rioh 14 i > IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 |5U ■^™ miH ■^ lii |2.2 I!? Bi ■" 2.0 m lit ■ 40 1.8 1-25 III 1.4 lA nil ^^ ^ 6" : — ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716)872-4503 "%"■ .V* 814 RwU76. MONTREAL. composite columns; and the transepts are 144 ft. long, and are adoned with fine frescos in chiaroscuro. < >. Orer the High Altar la the Cmcifixioii, and the Adoration of the Spotlem Lamb, above which is the Nativity. Against the columna at the crowing of the nave and tran»ept8.are ntatues of St Mark with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox, St. Luke with a child, and St. John with an eagle- On the ceiling of the nave are frescos of St. Thomas Repentant, the Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and Child amid Angelio Choirs. Medallions along the nave contain portraits of eight saints of the Order of Jesus. Over the Altar of the Virgin, in the 1. transept, is a fresco of the Trinity, near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Oonzaga receiving his first communion from Bt. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. To the r. is a fresco of St. Ignatius Loyola in the Grotto of Manresa, and on the 1. is Christ's Appearance to nun near Rome, while above is Christ blessing Little Children. Over St. Joseph's Altar, in the r. transept, is a painting of the Eternal Father ; on the r. of which is another picture, St. Stanislaus Kostka receiving Communion fh>m Angels. On the L is a fresco of the Martyrdom nf the Jesuits at Nagasaki (Japan) ; on the r. is the Martyrdom of St. Andrew Bobola, in Poland ; and above is the Busing of Laxarus. On the ceiling is the Holy Family at Work. Turning now to the W. on St. Catherine St., one soou reaches *C]iriit Charoh Cathedral, the best representative of English Gothic architecture in America. It is built of Montreal and Caen stone, and is 212 ft. long, and 100 ft. yide at the transepts. A stately stone spire springs from the intersection of the nave and transepts, and attains a height of 224 ft. The choir is 46 ft. long, is paved with encaustic tiles, and contains a fine atained-glass window. On either side are elaborately carved stalls for the clergy; and the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft. high) is sustained by columns of Caen stone whose capitals are carved to represent Canadian plants. In front of the cathedral is a monument to Bishop Fulford, and on the N. is a quaint octagonal chapter>house, where the diocesan library is kept. The residence of the Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Canada) is near this building. One square K. of the cathedral (corner of Cathcart and University Sts.) is the large and interesling Natural-History Museum^ which is open to the public (fee, 25 c). The Ferrier Collection of Egyptian Antiquities and the cases of Canadian birds are of much interest. Farther out, back of the Hotel Dieu, is the Crystal Palace. McGill University (500 students) is at the foot of Mount Royal, in beau- tiful grounds. It was endowed in 1813 and opened in 1821, and has fac- ulties of Arts (9 professors). Medicine (10 professors), and Law (8 profes- sors). The Medical School is N. of the main building, and the Museum is worthy of a visit. The University is under the charge of Dr. J. W. Dawson (see pape 138), and is the most flourishing institution of the kmd in Canada. Affiliated with it are the contiguous Presbyterian and Wes- leyan theological colleges, and the Congregational and Anglican Diocesan colleges. The reservoir for the water-supply of Montreal is back of the University, 200 ft. above the river, and has a capacity of 36,500,000 gallons. The water is taken from the St. Lawrence, 1^ M. above the Lachine Eapids. A pleasant view of the city may be obtained from this terrace, and on the W. is Bavetucrag, the mansion of the late Sir Hugh Allan. 4\ MONTREAL. ItoiUe 76. 315 ■-I The * Oreat Seminary of St. Sniplce and the Montreal CoUege are | M. S. W. of the Uniyersity, and front on the same street (Sherbrooke). They occupy a portion of the brofivl ecclesiastical domain which is known as the Priests' Farm. The incongruoas towers in front of the main build- ing pertained to the ancient college of the 17th century, and were at that time loopholed and held as a part of the defences of the town against the Iroquois Indians. The Seminary is for the education of Roman Catholio priests, and has 4 professors and 112 students. The Montreal College is for the education of Canadian youth, and has 10 ecclesiastics for profes- sors and 260 students. It was founded in 1773 by the Sulpicians, wlio still remain in charge. The Seminary chapel is worthy of a visit, and the gar- dens about the buildings are said to be the finest in Canada. Sherbrooke St. and the environs of Mount Royal contain many elegant residences. Dorchester St. runs S. W. from Beaver-Hall Square, soon crossing Uni- yersity St., on whose r. comers are the High School and the St. James Club. This street leads, on the 1., to the Normal and Model Schools; and on the r. to the Natural-History Museum and the Cathedral. Dorchester St. passes on by St. PauPs Church (1. side) and the Knox Church (r.side) to Dominion Square, which occupies the site of a cemetery. In this vicinity are several fine churches, —the Wesleyan Methodist, a graceful building in the English Gothic style; the American Presbyterian, an ex- act copy of the Park Church in Brooklyn, N. Y. ; and St. George's Church (Episcopal), an elegant edifice in decorated Gothic architecture, with deep transepts, costly stained windows, a timber roof, and fine school-buildings attached. The new Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Peter h being erected at the cor- ner of Dorchester and Cemetery Sts. It is 800 ft. long and 225 ft. wide at the tran- septs ; and is to be surmounted by a stone dome 250 ft. high, supported on 4 piers (each of which are 33 ft. thick) and 82 Corinthian columns. 4 minor domes are to surround this noble piece of architecture. The portico is to ro.*8tles; and gives entrance to the vestibule, which is 200 ft long and 30 ft. wide. The interior colon- nades support lines of round arches ; and there are 20 minor chapels. The exterior walls are very massive, but extremely plain and rough. This building is to supplj the place of the Cathedral on St. Denis St., which was burned in 1852. The design was conceived by Bishop Bourget, who secured the land, and after inspecting numer- ous plans in different styles, determined to erect a cathedral like St. Peter's (though ■mailer). The architects went to Rome and studied the Vatican Bariiica careftilly, and the work was soon begun. At present strenuous exertions are being made by the clergy, monks, and nuns to procure the needful funds to finish the building. The Bishop's Palace is on the E. of Dominion Square; and Cemetery St. runs thence to St. Joseph's Church and the Bonaventure station of the Grand Trunk Railway. Beyond this point is the populous St. Ann*i Wardj toward the great basins of the Lachine Canal. The * Oray Nunnery is nearly k M. S. W. of Dominion Square, near Dorchester St., and occupies an immense pile of stone buildings. This convent {VHdpUal GMral de$ 8mtr$ Griset) was founded in 1747i and 316 Route 75. MONTREAL. i i contains 202 nans, 116 on mission, 42 novices and postulants, and over 600 patients. It takes care of aged and inArm men and women, orphans and foundlings, and lias large revenues from landed estates. Over 600 found- lings are received every year, of whom more than seven eighths die, and the remainder are kept in the convent until they reach the age of 12 years. Opposite the nunnery is Mont 8te. Marie^ a large huilding which was erected for a Baptist college, but has become a ladies* boarding-school (160 students) under the Congregational Nuns of the Black Nunnery, who have, in the city, 67 schools and 12,000 pupils. This order was founded by Marguerite Bourgoys in 1669. The Nazareth Asylum for the Blind is N. of the Gesti, on St. Cath- erine St., and has also an infant school with over 400 pupils. The chapel is built in a light and delicate form of Romanesque architecture, and is richly decorated and frescoed. On the same square are the handsome stone buildings of the Catholic Commercial Academy. To the E. (on Dorchester St.) is the General Hospital^ with 160 beds; the Hospice of St. Vincent de Paul (30 brethren) and the Aaile de la Providence (122 nuns) are near Labelle St. ; and numerous other convents and asylums are found throughout this.singular city, which is both British and French, commer- cial and monastic, progressive and mediaeval, — combining American en- terprise with English solidity and French ecclesiasticism. The * ndtel Dieu de Ville Marie is about 1 M. N. W. of Great St. James St., and is one of the largest buildings in Canada. The chapel is a spa- cious hall over which is a dome 160 ft. high, frescoed with scenes from the life of the Holy Family. This institution was founded in 1869, and is con- ducted by about 80 cloistered nuns of the Order of St. Joseph. There are generally about 600 persons in the building, consisting of the nuns and tlieir charges, old and infirm men and women, orphans, and about 200 sick people. To the N. is the populous French suburb of 8t. Jean Baptiste (6,000 inhabitants), which is connected with the cit >- horse-cars on St. Lawrence Main St. *HoTmt Royal Fark, a Jong wooded ridge 750 it. high, covers 430 acres, and was bought by the cit.v in 1874, and laid out by F. L. Olmstead. Stages run through it every half-hoiir, starting from the Montreal Post- Office, and passing the Windsor (ticket up and back, 23 c. ; restaurant on summit). A superb view is afforded, including the city and scores of vil- lages, the distant Adirondacks and Green Mts., Rougemont and Beloeil, and the St. Lawrence and Ottawa and their lakes. Point St. Charlei is beyond tlie Lachine-Canal Bt>jms, and is traversed by the tracks of the Grand Trunk Railway. Near the Victoria Bridge is a great bowlder, surrounded by a railing, commemorating the place where were buried 6,500 Irish immigrants, who died here of ship-fever in the summer of 1847. The * Viotoria Bridge is the longest and most costly bridge in Canada. It consists of 23 spans of 242 ft. each (the central one ;- MONTREAL. Rouurs. 317 ersed Ige is where n the costly ,1 one ■i 880 ft.)i resting on 24 piers of blue limestone masonry, cemented and iron- riveted, with sharp wedge faces to the down-current. The tubes contain- ing the track are 19 X 16 ft. and the bridge is approached by abutments 2,600 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, which, with the 6,594 ft. of iron tubing, makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to grade and over 1| M. from shore to shore. The bridge was commenced in 1854, and finished in 1869; . it contains 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost $ 6,800,000. , There is a beautiful view of the city from the central tube. In the early autumn of 1635 Jaques Cartier heard, from the ladians of Quebec, of a greater town &r up the river. The fearless Breton chief took 2 boats and 50 men, and ascended the St. Lawrence to the Iroquois town of Hochelaga, occupying the present site of the metropolis of Canada. " Before them, wrapped in forests tainted by the early frosts, rose the ridgy back of the Mountain of Montreal, and elow, encompassed with its cornfields, lay the Indian town," surrounded with triple . palisades arranged for defence. The French were admitted within the walls and rested on the great public square, where the women surrounded them in curiosity, and the sick and maimed were brought to them to be healed, " as if a god had come down among them." The warriors sat in gi-ave silence while he read aloud the Passion of our Saviour (though they understood not a word) ; then presents were given to all the people, and the French trumpeters sounded a warlike melody. The Indians then guided their guests to the summit of the aii^ent mountain, whence scores of leagues of unbroken forest were overlooked. Cartier gave to this &ir emi- nence the name of Mont Royal, whence is derived the present name of the city. In 1603 thid point was visited by the noble Champlain, but Hochelaga had disap- peared, and only a few wandering Algouquins could be seen in the country. The' Iroquois of the great town had been driven to the S. by the powerftil Algonquint - (such is the Mohawk tradition). At a later day a tax-gatherer of Anjou and a priest of Paris heard celes^tial voices, bidding them to found a hospital (Hdtel Dieu) and a college of priests at Mont Royal, and the voices were 'followed by apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour- Filled with sacred zeal, and brought t<^ther by a singular accident, tne.se men won several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought the Isle of Mont Royal, and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. With the Lord of Maisonneuve and 45 associates, in a solemn service held in the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, they consecrated the island to the Holy Family under the name of " Yille Marie de Montreal " (Feb., 1641). May 18, 1642, Maisonneuve and bis people landed at Mon- treal and raised an altar, before which, when high mass was concluded, the priest said, " You are a grain of mustard-seed that shall arise and grow until its branches overshadow the land. You are few. but your work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children shall fill the land." The Hdtel Dieu was founded in 1617, and in 1657 the Sulpicians of Paris established a seminary here. In 1689, 1,400 Iroquois Indians stormed the western suburbs, and killed 200 of the in- habitants, and a short time afterwards Col. Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troops fh>m New York, leaving only the citadel, which his utmost efforts could not reduce. In 1760 Lord Amherst and 17,000 men captured the city, which then had 4,000 in- habitants, and was surrounded by a wall with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1776 Ethan Allen attacked Montreal with a handful of Vermonters, and was defeated and captured, with 100 of his men. Oen. Prescott sent them to EJngland as " banditti," and Allen was imprisoned in Pendennis Castle. In the fall of 1776 the city was taken by the American army under Qen. Montgomery. With the close of the War of 1812, a brisk commerce set in, and the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,767 inhabitants. The completion of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benefited this J lace, and its increase has for many years been steady, substantial, and rapid. In 832 the cholera destroyed 1,843 persons, out of a population of 80,000 ; and in 1852 a large part of the city was burned. 80 years ago vessels of over 800 tons could not reach Montreal, but a ship-channel has been cleared bv the exertions of the mer- chants (headed bv Sir Hugh Allan), and now the city u visited regularly by steamships of 4,000 tons, and by the largest vessels of the merchant-niarine. 318 RouUre. "AROUND THE MOUNTAIN.' 76. The Environs of Montreal. Montreal is sitnated on the S. E. side of tlie island of Montreal, which is 28 M. long, 10 M. wide, and 70 M. aronnd. It is divided into 10 par- ishes, and is composed of fertile and arable soil, supporting a dense pop- ulation. The favorite drive is that * ''Around the Mountain," a distance of 9 M. The road passes out by the Hotel Dieu and through the suburb of St. Jean Baptiste (whence a road runs E. to the limestone-quarries at Cote St. Michel). At Mile-End the carriage turns to the 1. and soon passes the avenue which leads (to the l.)to the Mount Royal Cemetery. The road ascends to higher grades, and beautiful views open on the N. and W., including 13 villages, the distant shores of the Isle of Jesus, and the brigfit waters of Lake St. Louis and the Lake of the Two Mountains. On a clear day the spires of the Catholic College of St. Tkirese are seen, several leagues to the N., beyond the Riviere auz Chiens. The village of C6ti dea Neiges (three inns) has an antique church, and is occupied by 1,200 inhabitants. It was first settled by families from Cdtd des Neiges in France, which derived its name from a legend that a miraculous cruci- form fall of snow took place there in August, marking the place on which a pious citizen afterwards built the Church of Notre Dame des Neiges. From this village the inter-mountain road leads £. to Montreal. On the lower slope of Mount Royal a platform has been built on the wall of the Seminary grounds, from which a beautiful ♦view is obtained. (The usual charges for the ride around the mountain are $ 1.50 for 2 - 8 persons, in a cab, or $ 2 for 4 persons ; for a two-horse carriage, $ 4, for 1 - 4 persons.) A road turns to the r. from Cote des Neiges and passes around the bold highlands S. of Mount Royal, through fair rural scenery. Beyond the hamlet of C6t^ St. Luc it reaches Cote St. Antoine^ the seat of the fine building and grounds formerly known as Monklands, when the home of Governor-General Lord Elgin. It is now called Villa Maria, and is occu- pied by the black nuns as a boarding-school. There are 26 sisters and 172 pupils, most of whom are from the United States. Opposite Villa Maria is the Church of St. Luc. The short road from this point to the city is made mteresting by beautiful views and fair villas, and for i M. after passing the toll-gate it skirts the Seminary grounds. The Sanlt an Becollet is 7 M. W. of Montreal, on the Riviere des Prairies, and is frequently visited for the sake of its picturesque rapids. Picnic parties occupy the forest-covered PHeets' Mand, whence the de- scent of rafts may be observed. The Convent of the Sacred Heart is beautifully situated amid pleasant grounds near the river. Opposite Sault au Recollet is the Isle Jeens, which is nearly 26 M. long, and contains the villages of St. Martm, St. Rose de Lima, and St. Vincent de Paul (near which is the Provincial Reformatory Prison). Ho^^helaga is at the N. £. end of the Montreal horge-car line, and is LACHINE RAPIDS. JUnUe7e, 319 re des apids. hede- eart is Sault ntains l(near and is fhe point where the Northern-Colonization and North-Shore Railways are to terminate. It has a good harbor on the St. Lawrence, below the Rapid of St. Mary. There are several fine villas here, and the * Convent of tht Bacred Name ofJeaua and Mary is the most extensive monastic institu- tion in Canada. Hochelaga is 3 M. from the Victoria Bridge ; and 8-4 M. farther E- is Longue Point, near which the late Sir George E. Cartier resided. The river-road gives views of Longueuil, Boucherville, and Varennes, on the S. shore. Laohine (three hotels) is 9 M. S. W. of Montreal, and is a favorite summer-resort of the citizens. The river-road is very picturesque; and the upper road runs through the manufacturing town called Tannery Westf which has over 4,000 inhabitants. Visitors usually go out on one road and return by the other. ■ Lachine is at the foot of Lake St. Louis, and is noted for its annual regattas. It was so named by Champlain in 1613, because he believed that beyond the rapids the river led to China {La Chine). In 1689 the Iroquois Indians destroyed the French town here, with all its inhabitants, 200 of whom were burnt at the stake. Opposite Lachine is the populous village of Caughnawaga, inhabited by about 600 of the orderly and indolent descendants of the Iroquois Indians, who are governed by a council of seven chiefs. The * Laohine Rapids may be visited by taking the 7 A. m. train (at the Bonaventure station) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by which the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal. After taking a pilot from Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out. " Suddenly s scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye. Waves are lashed into spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerg^ rocks which they are dashed against in the headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm- lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, Tvhich, did your ves- sel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course, — if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, —she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is au absolute precipice of waters ; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown high into the idr. Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, unruffled bosom of ' below the rapids.' " The steamer then passes under the central arch of the Victoria Bridge (see page 816), and opens animposiog panoramic *view of the city. (Tickets for the round- trip cost 50 c. ; and the tourist gets back to Montreal about 9.30 a. u) The Beloeil MountaiiL may be visited in a day by taking the Grand Trunk Railway to St. Hilaire, whence the mountain is easily ascended, ' passing a pretty little lake. On this peak (1,400 ft. above the St. Law- rence) the Bishop of Nancy erected an oratory surmounted by a huge tin- covered cross whtch,\Ba9»^isiblefor^ox.€tf* J8i> 1^1^ , The cross was blown down, several years ago. • ■tlie^*.yicw ^(^m»B^loe31. JnMjudes'a jea^i^S of 60 M. over the fertile and thickly at;ttled''p1aln&' o^ tlie ^t., LtnA^t^cie Ti^lley, with the blue. mountainf^o^ Vermont feir ajvay y\ tlje §4 K. JJneBoftd^ervitte Moun- tain i» reached 'frpD;t.!$t^]^i|unoj a statkmv ox^; the 0.rand T'nink Railway, 320 HouU 76. OTTAWA. >%fi and commands fine yiews. There are 10 lakes on this ridge, one of which, the Manor L , ^ c • •• . • j i > I in im- rUin I are kthe If the [lower Leth« over con- Ityof rtflre- bn to lorth- 3nce Ifrom ."« lont i\ or i-:<^'.^7t^: ■^*(*tti'>»i#-r-*.ifi"t„.'." .-.Jt^^T^---'.-' -:;r-''^'ri'".^V'> .*■-■;' _".'r'.s«i* DC witT «e fWO LONGITUDE CAtT 17 FR w^ WITH NEWFOUNDLA.ND a LABRADOR. PVrBLISHED TOACCO^fPAmr The Maritime Provinces : a Handbook for Trmellers" JAMES R.OSGOOD & C» BOSTON M4SS. 44. Prepared by(iWXCtt('Qliffli&CVl7L»WUliiimS!N(wYoi-k. LONCITUDC EAST 17 FROM W/ISHINCTON 21 ■i3 # ^p' .>--uw>. M i * INDEX. AlMttls, P. Q. 292. Advocate Harbor 103, 80. Agulqaac BlTer 64. Arnilie aien 167, 169. Albert Bridge, 0. B. 164. Albert Minefl, N. B. 72. Alberton, P. E. 1. 179. Albion Mines, N. S. 186. Aldouin River, 60. Alemek Bay, N. B. 63. Alexander Point 63. Alexis River 226 Allagash River, Me. 68. Allandale, N. B. 62. Alriglit Id. 184. Aleton Point, N. B. 66. Amherst, N. S. 78, 74. Amherst Id. 183. Ancienne Lorette 281, 279. Andover, N. B. 64. ■ Ange Oardien, P. Q. 283. Annandale, P. E. I. 182. Annapolis Basin, N. S. 84. Annapolis Royal 85. Annapolis Valley 88. Anticosti 234. Antigonish, N. S. 138. Apohaqui, N. B. 71, 48. Apple River, N. S. 80. Apsey Gove, N. F. 210. Aquafort, N. F. 198. ArdoiseMt.,N.S. 93. Argentenay, P. Q. 290. Argyle.N.S. 116,126. Aricbat, G. B. 145. Arisaig, N. S. 189. Aroostook Valley, Me. 66. Arthurette, N. B. 54. Aspotogon Mt., N. S. 127. Aspy Bay, C. B. 160. Athol, N. B. 80. Atlantic Gove, 0. B. 160. Aulac, N. B. 74. Avalon, N. F. 198, 209. Avonport, N. S.91. Aylesford, N. S. 89. Aylesford Lt^es 90. BaocaUeu Id., N.F. 201,206. 14» Bacearo Point, N. 8. 123. Baddeck, C. B. 162. Baddeck River. 167. Bagotville, P. Q. 802. Bale des Rochers, P. Q. 296. Bale St. Paul, P. Q. 292. Bale Verte, N S. 74. Ballard Bank, The 199. Ballyhaly Bofc. N. F. 196. Bangor, Me. W. Barachois, N. B. 69. Baieneed, N. F. 207. Barnaby Id., P. Q. 260. Barra, Strait of 164. Barr'dId8.,N. F.210. Barrow, N. F. 214. Barrow Harbor 203. Barton, N. S. 112. Basin of Minos 101, 106. Basque Harbor 183. Basque Island 251. Bass River 81. Bathurst, N. B. 66, 61. Batiscan, P. Q. 307. Batteau Harbor 226. Battery Point, N. B. 68. Battle Id..Lab. 224, 200, 206. Bay, Argyle, N. S. 116. Belleisle, N. B. 42. Bonavista, N. F. 208. Bonne, Lab. 219. Bradore, Lab. 230. Bulls, N. F. 194, 197. Canada, N. F. 221. Cardigan, P. E. 1. 176. Conception , N . F . 195, 206. De Grave, N. F. 207. DuVin,N.B. 61. East, G. B. 147. Esquimaux, Lab 230. Eternity, P. Q. 803. Fortune, N. F. 214. Oaria. N. F. 216. Ha Ha, P. Q. 301. Hall's, N. F. 211. Hermitage, N. F. 215. Hillsborough 174, 175. Ingomachoix 219. Kemiel)ecaais 40l Bay, Little, N. V. 215. Mahone, N. 8. 118, 127. Miramichi, N. B. 6L Oak, N. B. 84. ofGbaleur64,240. of Despair 216. of Fair and Ptj8e208. ofFundy81,88. of Islands 218. of Notre Dame, N. F. 210. ofSt. John 219. Placentia, N. F. 212. Richmond, P. E. 1. 178. Roberts, N. F. 207. St. Anne's, G. B. 168- St. George's, N. F. 217. St. John's, P. Q 304. St. Margaret's 126, 118. St. Mary's 112, 213. Sandwich, Lab. 226. Trinity, N. P. 208, 201. Verd, N. F. 201, 208. White, N. F 221. Beach, The 206. Bear Gove 93 Bear Point 143. Bear River 85. Beaubair's Id., N. B. 68. Beaulieu, P. Q 289. Beaumont, P. Q. 254. Beauport, P. Q. 276. Beaver Bank, N. S. 98 Beaver Harbor, G. B. 162. Beaver Harbor, N. B. 81. Beaver Harbor. N. S. 182. Beaver River 114. Becancour, P. Q. 897. Bedeque Bay, P. £. 1. 174. Bedford Basin, N. S 100. Bellechasse Id. 264. Belledune, N. B. 66. Belle Isle 220, 206. Belleisle Bay, N. B. 42. BeU Isle, N. F. 221. Belleorem, N. F. 214. Belliveau Gove, N. S. 112. Belliveau VUlage 73. Beloeil Mt., P. Q. 819. Benacadie Point 166. 322 INDEX. Bcnmora 280. Barabnli Birer 288. Bcrthlcr en toj 254. Berthtor en haut 808. Berwick. N. 8. 90. Bk) Id., P. Q. 261. Big Loran, 0. B. 154. Big Tancook Id. 128. Biquette, P. Q. 251. Bireh Pdnt 64. Birobtown.N.S. 121. Bird Island Gove 202. Bird Isles 184. Bird Rock 161. Black Bay 228. Black Brook 61. Blackhead 196. Blackhead Cove 210. Black Point, N. 8. 122. Black River, N. F. 212. Black River, P. Q. 295. Blaoeherotte, 0. B. 147. Blano Sablon, Lab. 229. Blandford, If. B. 27. BUnd Lake, N. 8. 126. Bliss Id , N. B. 81. BUssvllle, N. B. 49. Blockhouse Mines 158. BlomidoD, Cape 102, 108. Bloody Bay, N. F. 208. Bloody Bridge 70- Bloody Brook, N. S. 89. Blow«nie-Down Head 207. Blue Mt8.,N.S. 90,115. Blue Pinion, N. F. 214. Blue Rooks, N. S. 118. Boar's Back, N. S. 82. Boar's Head, N. B. 40. Boiestown, N. B. 47, 62. Boisdale 162. Bonami Point 67. Bonaparte Lake 86- Bonaventure Id. 248. Bonavista Bay, N. F. 208. Bonhomme, Le 807. Bonne Bay 219. Bonne Bsperance Bay 280. Bonny, Lab. 280- Bon Portage Id. 124. Bonshaw, P. E. 1. 174. BotbweU, P. E 1. 182. Bouehervitle, P. Q. 809. Boularderie. G. B. 161. Bout de riPle 808. Bradford's Cove 29. Bradore Bay, Lab. 280. Brae, P. E. 1. 179. Braha, N. F 221. Branch, N. F. 212. Brandies, The 201 Brandv Poto 262, 296. Bras d'Olr, The 161. Breton, Gape 149, 164. Bridgeport, 0. B. 163. Bridgetown, N.& 88. Bridgeton, P. B. 1. 182. Bridgewaterl28.119. Brigg's Corner 49. Brighton, N. S. 112. Brigus, N. F. 207. Bristol, N. B. 61. BroadCove,N. B. 29. Broad Cove, M. F. 203. Broad Cove, N. S. 120. Broad Cove Intervale 169. Brookfield, N. S. 82, 180. Brooklyn, N. S. 93. Brookvale, N. B. ^. Broyle Harbor 197. Brucker's Hill 26. Brule Harbor 81. Brunet Id. 211 Bryant's Cove 207. Buctouche, N. B. 69. Bull Arm, N. F. 209. Bull Moose Hill 41. Burgeo, N. F. 215. Burgoyne's Ferry 5l> Burin, N.F. 214, 212. Burlington, N. 8 9a Burnt Church 62, 68. Burnt Head 207. Burnt Ridge 202. Burton, N. B. 43. Burying Place 211. Butter Pots, The 199. Cacouna, P. Q. 296, 252. Calais, Me. 85. Caledonia Comer 180. CalUire, P. Q. 295. Calvaire, Miq. 185- Calvaire, P. Q 806. Cambridge, N. B. 42. Cambriol, N. F. 214. Campbell River 55. Campbellton, N. B. 68. Camille, Mt. 249. Campobello Id. 25. Canaan River 72. Canada Bay 221. Canada Creek 90. Canning, N. B. 48. Canning, N. S. 91. Canso 142. Canterbury 87, 62. Gap k I'Aigle 294. au'Corbeau 292. de la Magdelidne 807. de Meule 184. Rouge 281. St. Ignace 268. Cape Alright 184. Anguille.N. F. 217. Ballard, N. F. 218. Bauld, N. F. 220. Bear 176. 181. Blomidon, 91, 102, 108. Cape Bluff, Lab. 8BL Breton, 149, 164. Broyle, N. F. 197. Canso, N. S. 184, 142. Ghapeau Rouge 214, 189. Chatte, P. Q. 249. Chigneeto, N. 8. 104. Cove, N. S. 114. Cove, P. Q. 241. Colombier, P. Q. 288. CorneiUe, 294. Dauphin 158, 161. Desolation 226. Despair, P. Q. 241. Diable, P. Q. 262. d'Or, N. 8. 108. East, P. Q. 801. Egmont, P. E.L 174,179. English, N. F. 218. Enrage, N. B. 72. Eternity. P. Q. 808. Fogo, N. F. 204, 210. Fourchu, N. 8. 125. Freels, N. F. 208. 218. Oaspa, P. Q. 246. George, P. Q. 804. Goose 294. Grand Bank 214. Gribaune 291. Jourimain 69, 78. Kildarel80. Labaie292. Lahave, N. S. 120. La Ilune 216. Largent 202. Mabou, C. B. 168. Magdelnine 248. Maillard 292. Marangouin 78. Morien, C. B. 168. Negro, N. S. 122. Noniian, N. F. 220. North, C. B. 160. Perry, C. B. 168. Pine, N. F. 213. Porcupine, N. S. 144. Race, N. F 199, 189. Ray, N. F. 217, 216. Rhumore, C. B. 147. Ridge, N. F. 208. Roroway, N. S. 12L Rosier 247, 246. Rouge 291. Sable, N. S. 128. St. Anne 249. St. Francis 201, 225, 801. St. George 218 St. Lawrence 160, 170. St. Michael 226. St. Nicholas 288. Sambroll8,98. Smoky, G. B. 169. Spear, N. F. 189, ISH. Speneer 104, 88. INDEX. 323 180. 4,179. I. 08. i,80L ilTO. '19& 0mm Spli*. N. 8. 104. Toonumte 287. 268. Toumwntine 69, 78, 174. Tntvene 174. Trinity, P. Q. 808. Tryon, P. E. I 178. Tictoria. P. Q. 804. We8t8U8. WhitUe, Lab. 280. Wolfe 179. Caplin Cove 198. Caraquette 60, 62. Carbonear.N.F. 208. Cardigan, N. B. 60. Cardigan, P. £. 1. 181. Caribacon 146. Caribou Id. 176, 224. Caribou Plains 80. Caribou Point 288. Carleton,N. 3.24. Carleton, P. Q. 288. Carrousel Id. 283. Cascapediac Bay 240. Casconipec 180. Castle Id., Lab. 227. Catalina, N. F. 201. Catalogue, C. B. 164. Cataracouy 280. Cat Cove 221. Caughnawaga 819. Cavendish, F. £. 1. 178. Cavenie de Bontempi 290. Cawee Ids. 288. Centrul Falmouth 91. Centre Hill 209. • Chaleur, Bay of; 64, 240. Chamcook Mt. SB. Champlain, P. Q. 807. Chance Harbor 81. Change Ids. 206,210. Channel, N. F. 216 Chapel Id., C. B. 147. Charlesbourg, P. Q. 279. Charlottetown,P. E. 1.176. Chateau Bay, Lab. 227. Chateau BelleTue 287. Chateau Bigot 280. Ch Jiteau Richer 284. Chatham, N. B. 61, 66. Cbaudi^re Falls 2Si. Chebucto Head 98. Chedabucto Bay 148. Chester, N. 8. 127, 90. Cheticamp, C. B. 170. Cheticamp, N. S. 114. Ghenetcook, N. 8. 181. ChicouUmi, P. Q. 800. Chignecto, Cape, 104. Chig^ecto Peninsula 79. Chimney Tickle 227. Cbiputneticook Lakes, N. B, 88,46. ChlTirl«98,102,106. Obonw Brook ml. Clboaz Ida. 161. Clairrauz, P. Q. 292. Clare, N. 8. 118. Clarendon, N. B. 88. Clementsport, N. 8. 86. Clementsrale 86. Clifton, N. B. 66, 71. Clode Sound £03. Cloridorme 248. Clouds, The, 221. Clyde River. N. 8. 124. Coacocho River 281. CobequidMts.,N. 8. 80. Cocagne, N. B. 69. Colebrooke, N. B. 66. Cole's Id. N. B. 47. Colioet, N. F. 213. Columbe 216 Conception Bay 196, 206. Gonche, N. F. 221. Contrecoeur, P. Q. 808. Corbin, N. F. 214. ComwallisTalley, N. 8. 90, 108, 107. Corny Beach 248. CdttfdeBeaupre,28S. des Neiges 818. St. Antoine 818. St. Luc 818. St. Michel 818. Cottel's Id. 208. Coudres, Isle aux 298. Country Harbor 188. Covehead.P. E 1.181. Cow Bay 101, 150, 168. Cox'S Point 49. Crabb's Brook 217. Crane Id, P. Q. 253. Crapaud, P. E. 1. 174. Creignish 168. Croque, N. F. 221. Cross Id., N. 8. 118. Cumberland Bay 49. Cumberland Harbor 230. Cupids, N. F. 207. Dalhousie, N. B. 67. Dalibaire, P. Q. 249. Dark Cove, 80. Dartmouth, N. 8. 101. Dauphiney's Cove 126. Davis Strait 226. Dead Ids. 216. 226. . Deadman's Isle 184. Debec Junction 87. Debert 80, 106. Deep Cove 127. Deerfield, N 8 116. Deer Harbor 209. Deer Isle, N. B. 26. Deer Lake 87. Deer Pond 219. DemoiseUe HUl 188. D«i7a Bivw, 0. B. 166. D»8abl»174. Deecente das ?eminM 80S. Desehambanlt 806. D'Escousse, C. B. 146. Despair, Bay of, 215. Despair, Cape, 241. Devil Id. 9a Devil's Back, N. B. 41. Devil's Qoose-Pasture 90. Devil's Head 84. Diable Bay 228. Digby, N. 8. 84. Digby Neck 116. Dipper Harbor 81. Distress Cove 212. Dodding Head 214. Dollannan Bank 202. DOr, Cape, N. S. 103. Dorchester, N. B. 78. Doucet's Id. N B. 34. Douglas Harbor 49. Douglastown, N. B. 62. Donglastown, P. Q. 244. Douglas Valley 88. Dumfries, N B. 62. Dundas, N. B. 69. Dundas, P. E. 1. 182. Dunk River 174. Earitown, N. 8. 188. East Bay 147, 165. 214. Eastern Passage 98. East Point 182. Eastport, Me- 26. ^t River 126, 226. Eboulements, Les, 294. Echo Lake 181. Economy Point 106, 80. Ecureuils, Les, 306. Eddy Point 143. Edmundston, N. B. 67. Edoobekuk, C. B. 147. Eel Brook 30. Egg Ids., Lab. 283. Ekum Sekum, N. 8. 182. Ellershouse, N. 8. 93. Elliot River 174. Elmsdale, N. 8 82. Elysian Fields, N. 8. 79; Enfield, N. 8. 82. English Harbor 201. En^ish Harbor West 214. English Point 288. Englishtown, C. B 168. Enniskillen. N. B. 88. Entry Id. 184. Escasoni, C. B. 148. Escuminac Point 61. Esquimaux Bay 230, 244. Eternity Bay 8U3. Exploits Id. 206, 210. Exploits, River of 210. Factoiy Dale, N 8. 80. fairTUk,N.B.87. 324 INDEX. Fairy Lake. N. 8.180. Falkland, N. 8. 90, 08. Falls, Cbaudiire 282, 820. Chiooutimi, P. Q. 800. Grand 66, 66. Grand, N. F. 210. Grande-M^re 307. Lorette, P. Q. 278. Maganfuadavic 32. Manitousln 232. Montmorenci 277. Nictau, N. S 89. North River 105. Pabineau, N. B. 66. Pokiok, N. B. 62. Pollett 72. Rideau, Ont. 320. Riviere du Loup 295. Riviere du Sud 263. St. Anne, P. Q. 286. Sault ill la Puce 284. Sbawanegan 307- 8i8fliboo, N. S. 112. Falmouth,^. S. 91 Farmington, N. S. 89. Father Point, P. Q. 250. Ferguson'fi Cove 101. Fermeuse, N. F. 198. Fern Ledges 24. Ferry land, N. F. 198. Fish Head 30. Five Ids , N. S. 105, 80. Flagg's Cove 29. Fleurant Point 67. FlintId.,C. B. 160, 153. Florenceville, N. B. 53. Flower Gove 219. Fogo, N. F. 204. Folly Pass, N. S. 80. Forks, The 48. 64. Fort Beaubassin 74, 78. Fort Beausejour 74, 78. Fort Cumberland 74, 78. Forteau, Lab. 228. Fort Fairfield, Me. 54. Fort Ingalls, N. B. 68. Fort Jaques Cartier 306. Fort Kent, Me. 68. Fort Lawrence 74, 78. Fort Meductic, N. B. 62, 48. Fort NuDcopie, Lab. 226. Fort Nor west. Lab. 226. Fortune, N. F. 214. Foster's tiove 54. Fourchette, N. F. 221. Fourchu, 0. B. 147. Fox Harbor, N. S. 103, 81. FoxHr'vor, Ub. 224. Fox River 248. Framboise, 0. B. 147. Frazer's Head 104. Fr«derioton, N. B. 44. Frederictoa Juno. 88. Vnuoli Crow, N. 8. 89. French Fort Creek 180. French Lake 48. Frenchman's Core 214. French River 138. French Shore, The 216. French Village 161. Frenchville, Me. 67. Freshwater Bay 208. Friar's Face 26. Frozen Ocean 180. Funk Id., N. F. 204. Gabarus Bay 164, 149. Gagetown, N. B. 42, 48. Oairloch, N. S. 136. Oalantry Head 185. Ganibo Ponds 203. Gander Bay 210. Gannet Rock, N. B 29. Gannet Rock 184. Garia Bay 215. Garnish, N. F. 214. Ga8pe,P. Q. 244. Oaspereaux Lake 90. Gay's River, N. S 82. Gentilly, P. Q. 807. George Id. 179. George's Id., N. 8.98. Georgetown.P. E. 1. 181,175 Gibson, N. B. 49. Gilbert's Coto 112. Glace Bay 158, 160. Glengarry. N. S. 186. Goat Id., N. 8. 86. Godbout, Lab. 238. GoldeuTiUe, N. 8. 138. Gold River 128. Gondola Point 71. Gooseberry Isles, 208. Goose Id. 268. Gouflre, Le 298. Gowrie Mines 158. Grand Anse, 0. B. 146. Grand Anse, N. B. 66. Grand Banks, The 199. Grand Bay 40. Grand Digue 145. Grande Bale 802. Grande-M6re Falls 807. Grand Falls, Lab. 226. Grand Falls, N. B. 55. Grand Grgye, P. Q. 244. Grand Harbor 29. Grand Lake 86, 48. Grand Lake Stream 86. Grand Manan 28. Grand Narrows 164. Grand Pond 218, 211. Grand Pr6 107, 91, 101. Grand River, C. B. 147. Grand River, N. B. 66. Grand River 241. Grand-River Lake 147. Grand Bustioo 178. Orandy'i Brook, 216. Grant Isle, Me. 67. Granville,- N. 8. 86. Great Bartibng 61. Great Boule 238. Great Bras d'Or 161, 164. Great Codroy 217. Great Ha Ha Lake 802. Great Harbor Deep 2S1, Great Meccatina 230. Great Miquelon 186. Great Pabos 241. Great Pond 248. Great Pubnico Lake 124. Grtiat St. Jiawrence 214. Great Shemogue 59. Great Village 81. Green Bay 211. Greenfield 130. Green Harbor 209. Gieen Ids 124, 214, 252. Greenly Id. 229. Green River 57. Greenspond, N. F. 208. Greenville 80. Greenwich Hill 41. Grenville Harbor 178. . Griffin's Cove 248. Griguet, N. F. 221. Grimross, N. B. 42. Grindstone Id. 188. Grondines, P. Q. 806. Grosse Isle 254. Grosses Coques 118. Gull Rock 121. Gut of Canso 142. Guysborottgh 188. Habitants Bay 148. Ha Ha Bay, P. Q. 80L Halifiix, N. S 98. Admiralty House 97. Cathedral 98. Citadel 96. Dalhousie Coll. 96. . Gov't House 98. Harbor 98. Hortio: Gardens 98. Museum 93 ParUament Building 96. Provincial Building 95. Queen's Dockyard 97. Y. M. C. A. 96. Halifax, P. E. 1. 179. Hall's Bay 211, 218. Hammond's Plains 100. Hampton, N. B. 71. Hampton, N. 8. 89. Ilantsport. N. 8. 91, 101. Harbor Briton 214. Harbor Buffet 212. Harbor Grace, N. F. 207. Harborville, N. 8. 90. Hare Bay, N. F. 221. ] ] 1 I I I I I I I I I I I I I I It Ii Ii lE It II Ir In In In In lo Ir Ir In Isl INIXEX. 325 . 100. ,101. Wun7C.,V.(i.2B2. Hare's Ears 198. Hara's-Head Hills 218. Harmony, P. £. 1. 182. Uarrey, N. B. 88. Harvey Comer 72. Haulover lAtbmus 146. HaTelock, N. S. 89. Head of Amherst 78. Heart Ridge, N. F. 210. Heart's Content 208. Heart's Delight 209. Heart's Desire 209. Heart's Ease.N. F. 209. HebertTille. P. Q. 800. Hebron, Lab. 22ti. Heights of Land 226. Hell IliU 197. Hermitage Bay 216. Herring CoTe, N. 8. 93. High Beacon 227. Highland Park 28. Highland Village 81. High Point 801. Hillsborough, N. B. 72. Hillsborough Bay 174. Hillsborough River 180. Hillsburn m. Hochelaga, P. Q. 818. Hodge- Water River 213. Holland Bay, 180. Holy rood, N. F. 199. Holy rood Pond 213. Hooping Harbor 221. Hope, P. Q. 241. Hope All, N. F. 209. Hopedale, Lab. 226. Hopewell 136. Hopewell Cape 72- Horton Landing 91. Hculton, Me. 87,61. Howe's Lake 28. Hudson's Strait 226. Humber River 219. Hunter River 177, 178. Indian Bay 167. 203. Indian Beach 80. Indian Gardens 180. Indian Id., Lab. 226. Indian Ids. 210. Indian Lorette 278. Indian Tickle 226. Indiantown, N. B. 47. Indian Village 61. Ingonish,C.B. 169. Intervale 183 lonclay Hill 197. Irish Cove, C. B. 147. Ironbound Cove, N. B 49. Ironbound Id., N. S. 110. Island, Alright 184. Amherst 188. AmticoBti 284. Island, Baeealieii, N. F. 201. Bamaby, P. Q. 260. Beaubair's 68. Bellechasse 264. Bic, P. Q. 260. Blackbill 227. Bonaventure 243. Bon Portage 124. Boughton 176. Boularderie l61. Brandy Pots 262. Brier 117. Brunei 214. Bryon 184. Campobello 26. Ca].e Breton 111. Cape Sable 123. Caribou 176, 224. Carrousel 238. Castle, Lab. 227. Caton's 41. Cawee233. Chapel 147. Cheticamp 170. Cheyne 29. Christmas 164. Cobbler's 203. Coffin 184. Cole's 47. Cottel'8 203. Crane, P. Q. 263. Cross, N. S. 118. Dead, N. F. 226. Deer 203. Devil, N. S. 93. Egg, Lab. 233. Entry 184. Esquimaux, Lab. 281. Exploits, N. F. 206, 210. Fair, N. F. 208. Fishflake 227. Fly 226. Fogo, N. F. 204, 210. Foster's, N. B. 41. Fox, N. B. 61. Funk, N. F. 203. George 179. George's, N. S. 98. Goat, N. S. 86. Goose, P. Q. 263. Governor's 176. Grand Dune 61. Grand Manan 28. Grassy, N. B. 41. Great Caribou 224. Green 124, 201, 220, 262. Grimross,N. U 43. Grindstone 72, 188. Grosse 184. Hare, P. Q. 262. Henry 169. Heron 67. Horse 221. Huntington 226. Island, Indian 226. Ireland, N. F. 21& Ironbound 119. Jaques Oartier 220. Kamoufaska 262. Large 231. Lennox, P. E. 1. 179. Little Miquelon 186. Little Bay 211. Locke's, N. S. 121. Long 42, 101 ,107, 117. 212. Lower Musquash 42. McNab's,N. 8. 101,93. Madame, P. Q. 264. Manger's 43. Melville 101. Merasheen 212. Middle 48. Miquelon 186. Miscou 64. Bloose 26. Nantucket 29. Negro 122. Newfoundland 187. New World 206. of Ponds 226. Panmure, P. E. 1. 176. Park, P E. L179. Partridge, N. B. 16. Partridge, N. 8. 102, lOa Penguin 203. Pictou, N. 8. 176. Pilgrims 262. Pincher's 203. Pinnacle 106. Pockf uedie 63. Pool's 203. Portage 61. Priests' 818. Prince Edward 172. Quarry 281. Quirpon 220. Ram 121. Random, N. F. 209. Reaux, P. Q. 264. Red 212, 218, 262. Sable 134. Saddle 228. Sagcna 214. St. liarbe 221. St. Paul's 160. St. Pierre 186. Sandous 46. Seal, N. S. 124. Sea-Wolf 169. Sheldrake 61. Shippigan 68. Smith's 169. Spencer's 103, 104, 106. Spotted, N. F. 226. Square, Lab. 226. Stonn Pillar 268. Sugar 60jj61. Venison 226. 326 INDEX. bland, Yin, If . B 6L White Head 29. White Hone 81. Wolf 184. Wood Pillar 258. loland.^ Battle 224. Burnt 215. Camp 227- Ciboux 161. Dead 215. Five 105. Lit le St. Modeste 228. Magdalen 183. Mingan 281. Mutton 124. Penguin 203. Ragged 212. Kamea 215. Ram'fl, N. F. 212. Red 147. Seal 225. Seven, Lab. 232. Tancookj.N. S. 128. Tusket, N. S. 125. Isle aux Ohiens 185. aux Coudres 2^. Bell, N. F. 221. Belle 206, 220. Deadman'a 184. Deer, N. B. 25. Oroais 221. Haute 104. JesuJi 318. Madame 145. of Orleans 288. St Louis 804. St. Therew 308. Verte, P Q. 252. Isles, Bird 184. Burgeo 215 de la Demoiselle 230. Gooseberry 203. Passe Pierre 305. Peterel 227. Twillingate 205. Wadham, N. F. 203. West, N. B. 26, 81. Jackson^s Arm 221. Jacksonville, N. S 90. Jaques Cartierd06. Jebogue Point 125. Jeddore, N. S. 132. Jemseg, N. B. 42, 48. Jerseyman Td. 145. Jesus, Isle 318. Jeune-Lorette 278. Joe Batt's Arm 210. Jogging Shore 80. Jolicoeur, N. B. 78. Joliette, P. Q. Jonquiere 300. Judique, G. B. 168. Jullanshaab, Or. 226. Kamonnuiks, P. Q. I Keels, N.F. 208. Kegashka Bay 28L Kempt Head 162. Kempt, N 8. 116. Kempt Lake, N. S. 90. Kennebecasis Bay 40, 22. Kenogami, P. Q. 800. Kensington 178. Kentville, N. S. 90. Keswick Valley 60. Keyhole, N. B. 49. Kingsclear, N. B. 51. King's Cove 203. Kingston, N. B. 42. Kingston, N. S. 89. Kouchibouguac Bay 61. La Bonne St. Anne 286. Labrador 223. Lac k la Belle Tmite 802. Lachine, P. Q. 320. La Fleur de Lis 221. Lahave River 128. Lake AInslie 167, 169. Bathurst 211. Bear 38. Beauport 279. Belfry 154. Ben Lomond 28. Blind 123. Catalogue, C. B. 154. Cedar, N. S. 115. Chamberlain, Me. 68. Chesuncook 58. Cleveland 57. Cranberry 38. Croaker's 211. Echo, N. S. 131. Fairy, N. S. 130. French, N. B. 48. Oabarus, C. B 154. Gaspereaux 90. George 61, 90, 116. George IV. 211 Grand 48, 86, 82. Gravel 296. Great Ha Ha 802. Jones 23. Kempt 90. Lewey's, Me. 86. Lily, N. B. 22. Little Ha Ha 302. Long, P. Q. 68. Long, N. S. 82. Magaguadavic 88. Malaga,N.S. 129. Manor, P. Q. 319. Maquapit, N. B. 48. Metapedia 69. Mira, C B. 154. Mistassini 301. Moosehead 68. Mount Theobald 71. Lake NepMsidt tt. Nietor, N. B. 86. Oromocto 88. Peehtaweekagomle 68. Pemgockwahen 68. Pockwock 100. Pohenagamook 68. . Ponhook, N. S. 126. Porter's 181. Port Medway 180. Preble, Me. 67. Prince WilUam 62. Queen's, N. B. 87. Quiddy Viddy 196. Robin Hool 87. Rocky, N. S. 82. Rns<>ignol 130. St. Charles 279. St. Joachim 287. St. John, P. Q. 801. St. Peter, P. Q. 807. Sedgwick 67. Segum Sqpt 180. Sheogomoc 62. Sheplody, N. B. 72. Sherbrooke 90. Sherwood, N. B. 87. Ship Harbor 132. S. Oromocto 38. Spruce, N. B. 24. Stream 49. Taylor's 23. Temiscouata 68, 295. Terra Nova 203. Tracy's, N B. 71. Tusket, N. S. 115. Two-Mile 90. Utopia, N. B. 32. Vaughan, N. S. 116. Washademoak 47, 42. Welastookwaagamis 68. Wentworth 113. Windsor, N. F. 196. Winthrop, Me. 68. Lakes, Aylesford 90. Bras d*Or 161. Chiputneticook 88. Dartmouth 101. Eagle, Me. 68. Schoodic, Me. 85. Tusket, N. S. 116. La Manche 197, 212. Lance-au-Loup 228. Lance Cove 206. Land's End, 41. Langley Id 186. Lanoraie, P. Q. 308. L'Anse k I'Eau 305. La Poile, N. F. 216. L'Archevlque 147. L'Ardoise, 0. B. 146. Large Id. 231. i:iaScie221,211. L'ABsomption, P. Q. 808. '■ INDEX. 327 ■■ I. • \2. 68. 808. LBTalBlT0r299. Lavaltrie, P. Q. 808. LaTieiUe246. Lawlor's Lake 70. Lawrencetown 89, 181. Luaretto, Tracadie 62. Ledge, The 86. Leitchfleld, N. S. 86. Lennox Id. 179. Lennox Paamge 146. Lee Eboulemente 294. Les Ecureulls 806. Lea Eecoumains 288. L'Etang du Nord 184. L'Etang du Sarorard 186. L'Etang Harbor 81. Letito Passage 82. Levis, P. Q. 282. Lewey's Id. 85. Lewis CoTe 47. Lily Lake 22. Lingan 162, 160. Lion's Back 28. Uscomb Harbor 182. L'Islet, P. Q. 263. L'Islet au Massacre 260. Little Arichat 146. Little Bay Id. 206,211. Little Bras d'Or 161. Little Falls 67. Little Olace Bay 163. Little Ha Ha Lake 302. Little Loran 154. Little Miquelon 186. Little Narrows 167. Little Pabos 241. Little Placentia 212. Little Rirer 22. Little Rocher 72. Little SflHguenay 804. Little St. Lawrence 214. Little Seldom-come-by 210. Little Shemogue 69. Little Tancook 128. Liverpool, N. S. 120, 130. Lobster Harbor 221. Loch Alva 87. Loch an Fad 147. Loch Lomond, G. B. 147. Loch Lomond, N. B. 22. Lochside, C. B. 147. Loch Uist 147. Locke'Sld.,N. 8 121. Logic Bay 195. 200. Londonderry 106. Long Id. 40, 42. 101, 117. Long Pilgrim 262. Long Point 281. Long Range 217. Long Reacn 41. Long's Eddy 80. Longue Point 819. Lorette, Indian 278. Lotbiniire» P. Q. 806. Lonlsboiuv, C. B. 164, 140. Loup Bay 228. Low Point 168. Lower Canterbury 62. Lower Caraqnette 66. Lower French Yill 6l. Lower Horton 107. Lower Midd'eton 89. Lower Prince William 61. Lower Queensbury 61. Lower Woodstock 62. Lubec, Me. 26. Ludlow, N. B. 47. Lunenburg 118, 128. Mabon, C. B. 169. Mabou Valley 168. McAdam June. S3. Maccan, N. 8. 80, 79. Mace's Bay 81. McNab's Id. 101, 98. Madawaska 67. Magaguadavic River 82. Magdalen Ids. 188. Magdelaine, Cape 248. Magnacha Point 67, 239. Magundy, N. B. 61. Mahogany Road 24. Mahone Bay 127, 118. Main-4-Dieu 160. Maitland 82, 106, 129. Malaga LAke 130. Malngawdatchkt 166. Malbaie, P. Q. 294. Mai Bay 244. Malcolm Point 61. Malignant Gove 189. Malpeque Harbor 178. Manchester, N. S. 183. Manicouagan 238, 260. Manitousin Falls 232. Maquapit Lake 48. Marchmont 280. Margaree River 167. Margaree Forks 170. Margaretsville 89. Maria, P. Q. 240. Marie Joseph 182. Marion Bridge 164. Marshalltown 112. Mars Head 117. Mars Hill 64. Marsh Road 22. Marshy Hope 188. Mascarene 82. Masstown 81. Matane, P. Q. 249. Mattswamkeag 89, 68. MaugerviUe. N. B. 48. Mealy Mts. 226. Meccatina, Lab. 280. Medisco, N. B. 66. Meductio Rapids 62. M^Janoette Portage 40. MelftmlOi«ekl48. Melroee, N. 8- 82. Melvem Square 89. Melville Id. 101. Melville Lake 226. Memramcook 78. . Merasheen Id. 212. Merigomish 188. Metapedia 69. Meteghan, N. 8. 118. M«ti8. P. Q. 249. Middle Musquodoboit 82. Middle River 163, 167. Middle Simonds, 68. Middle Stewiacke 81. Middlet(Hi, N. S. 89. Milford, N. 8. 129. Milford Haven 188. Milkish Channel 41. Mill Gove, N. B. 49. Mille Yaches 299. MUltown, N. B. 86. Mill Tillage 128. Minas Basin 101, 108. Mingan Ids., Lab. 281. Ming's Bight 221. Minister's Face 22. Minudie, N. S. 79. Miquelon 186, 214. Mira Bay 160. Mira Lake, C. 3. 164. Miramichi, N. B. 61. Miscouche 179. Miscou Id. 64. Mispeck, N. B. 28. Missiguash Marsh 79, 74. Mission Point 68. Misibnoque Id. 280. Mistassini, Lake 801. Moisic River 282. Molasses Harbor 184. Momoseket River 66. Moncton, N. B 72. Money Cove 80. Montogue Bridge 181. Montague Mines 101, 181. Mont Joli 231. Mont Louis 249. Montmorenci Falls 277. Montreal, P. Q. 809. Bonsecours Market 812. Champ de Mars, 812. Christ Ch. Cathed. 814. Court House 812. Dominion Sq. 816. Qeolog. Museum 812. Gcsii Church 818. Gray Nunnery 816. Qreat Seminary 816. Hotel Dieu 816. Institut Canadien 812. McOill Univ. 814. Montreal Coll. 816. Mt Royal 816. 328 INDEX. MontrMd, NuareCh Aiyl. 816 New Cathednl 816. Notre Dame 811. Place d'Armeii 811. Po0t-Offlce 811. Beoiinary 812. 8t. Helea'B Isle 818. Victoria Bridge 816. Victoria Square 811. Moose Harbor 120. Moosepath Park 22. Morden, N. S. 80. Monell, P. B. 1. 182. Morris Id. 116. Morristown 90, 139. Mosquito Cove 208. Moes Glen 22- Moulin & Baude 299. Mount Aspotogon 127. Blair 82. Calvaire 186. Camille 250. Cbapeau &86. Dalbousie 67* Benson 91. £boulement8 294, 268. GrauTille 146. Hawley 89. Hermon Cemet 280. Joli 242. Nat 225. Pisgah 71. Royal 816, 818. St. Anne m Stewart, P. B. 1. 181. TeneriCfe, N. B. 65. XTniacke, N. S. 98. Mountidn. Ardoise, 98. Bald, 88, 65. Beloeil 819. Boar's Back 182. Boucbenrille 819. Chamcook 83. North 84. Salt 168. South 84. Sugar-Loaf 159. Tracadiegash 67, 289. Mountains, Antigonish 189. Baddeck 163. Blue 84, 90, 115, 180. Cobequid 80. Ingonish 161. Mealy 225. Notre Dame 249. St. Anne 287. St Margaret 302. Scaumenac 68. Sporting 146. Mull River 168. Murray Bay 18)4. Murray Harbor 181. Huihaboon Harbor 182. Musquash. N. B. 81. MusquodoDoit 181. Mutton Ids. 124. Nain, Ub. 226. Napan Valley 61. Narrows, The 47, 64. Narrows, Grand 164. Nashwaak 47. Nashwaaksis 45. Natashquan Point 281. Natural Steps, The 277. Necum Tench 132. Negro Id., N. S. 122. Negrotown Point 15. Ne'Aon, N. B. ea Nepisiguit Lake 55. Nepisiguit River 65. Nerepis Hills, N. B. 41. Nentpis River 88. Netsbuctoke 225. Neutral Id., N. B. 84. New Albany, N. S. 89. New Bandon 66. New Bay 211. New Bonaventure 210. New Brunswick 13. Newburgh, N. B. 50. New Canaan 48. New Carlisle 240. Newcastle 49, 62. New Dublin 119. New Edinburgh 112. Newfoundland 187. New Glasgow, N. S. 136. New Glasgow, P. E. 1. 178. New liverpool 282. New London 178. Newman Sound 208. New Perlican 209. Newport, N. 8. 92, 101. Newport, P. Q. 241. New Richmond 240. New Ross, N. S. 90. New Tusket 113. Niapisca Id. 231. Nicolet. P. Q 308. Nictau Falls 89. Nictor Lake 55. Niger Sound 227. Nimrod, N. F. 211. Nipper's Harbor 206, 211. Noel, N. S. 105. North Bay 214. Northern Head 80. Northfieid 129. North Harbor 212. North Joggins 73. North Lake 182. North Mt. 84. North Point 180. North River Falls 106. North Rustico 178. North Bjiatf 151. Northumberluid Strait QO. 174, 288. Northwest Arm 100. North Wiltshire 177. Norton, N. B. 71, 42. Norwest, Lab. 226- Notre Dame Bay 210, 206» Notre Dame du Lao 68. Nova Scotia 75. Nubble Id. 81. Oak Bay .>f. B. 84. OakPoiut41,61. Ochre Pit Cove 208. Offer Wadham 204. Okkak, Lab. 226. Old Barns 81. Old Bonaventure 210. Old Ferolle 219. Old Fort Point 158. Oldham Mines 82. Old Maid 29. Old Periican 209, 201. Oldtown, Me. 39. Olonianosheebo 281*' Onslow 80. Oromocto, N. B. 48. Oromocto Lake 88. Orono, Me. 39. Otnabog, N. B. 42. Ottawa, Ont. 320. Outarde River 250. Oxford, N. S. 80. Ovens, the 119. Pabineau Falls 66. Pabos, P. Q. 241. Painsec June. 72, 69. PapsofMatane249. Paradise, N. F. 226. Paradise, N. S. 89. ParrsboroVN. S. 102. Partridge Id., N. B. 16. Partridge Id., N. S. 102. Paspebiac, P. Q 240. Patrick's Hole 200. Patten, Me. 58. Penguin Ids. 203. Penobscot River 39. Penobsqui», N. B. 71. Pentecost River 238. Pepiswick Lake 181. Petce, P. Q. 242. Perroquets, The 282. Perry, Me. 28. Perth, N. B. 54. Petitcodiac 72, 48. Petit de Grat 145. Petite Bergeronne 288. Petite Passage 117. Petit Metis 249. Petty Harbor 197. Piccadilly Mt 7L Piokwaakeet 42. 1 P P P P P P. P( P( P< l'< tflO, Dft. < Pfetem 187, 166. Pietou Id. 176. Pilgrims, Tlie 262. Pincher's Id. 208L Pinoacle Id., N. S. 106. Pirate's Core 143. Pisarinco Cove 81. Placentia Bay 212. Plains of Abraham 280. Plaster Cove 143, 168. Pleasant Bay 183. Pleasant Point 27. Pleureuse Point 249. Plumweseep 71. Pockmoucbe, N. B. 62. Pocksliaw, N. B. 66. Point k Beaulieu 295 Point Aconi, C. B. 161. Amour, Lab. 228. i. Pique 294. an Bourdo 69.' de Monts £33, 249. du ChSne 69, 60. la Boule 806. Lepreau 31. Levi, P Q. 282. Moquereau 241. Miscou, N. B. 64. Orignaux 252. Pleasant 40, 68, 100. Prim 176, 181. Rich, N. F. 219. St. Charles 316. St. Peter 244. Wolfe, N. B. 71. Pointe k la Qarde 68. & la Croix 68. aux Trembles 306, 809. Mille Vaches 233. Roches 301. Rouge 299. Pokiok Falls 62. Pollett River 72. Pomquet Forks 139. Pond, Deer, N. F. 219. Grand, N. F 218. Red Indian 211. Quemo-Gospen 213. Ponhook Lake 130, 126. Port Acadie, N. S. 113. Portage Road, N. B. 61. Port au Basque, N. F. 216. auChoix219. au Persil, P. Q. 296. au Pique 81. au Port, N. F. 218. aux Quilles, 296. Dania 241. Elgin, N. B. 73. Porter's Lake, N. S. 181. Port GreTille, N. S. 108. Hastings, 0. B. 148. Hawkesbuiy 148. Herbert, N. S. 12L INDEX. Port Hill, P. B. 1. 179. Hood, G. B. 169. Joli, N. 8. 121. Latour, N. S. 122. Medway, N. S. 120. Mouton 120. MulgrttTe 143, 140. Port Meuf, Lab. 238. Portneuf, P. Q. 306. Porto Nuevo Id. 149. Portugal Cove 196, 206. Port St. Augustine 280. Port WUliams 89, 91. Powder-Hom Hills 212. Pownal, P. E. 1. 177. Presque Isle, Me. 54. Preston N. S. 181. Preston's Beach 61. Prim Point 83. Prince Edward Id. 172. Princetown, P. E. 1. 178. Prince William 52. Prince William St. 89. Pubnico, N. S. 126. Pugwash81,80. Quaco, N. B. 71. Quebec, P. Q. 256. Anglican Cathedral 260. Basilica 261. Cathedral 261. Citadel 266. Custom House 271. Durham Terrace 259. Esplanade 268 Gen. Hospital 272. Gov.'s Garden 269. Grand Battery 269. Hdtel Dieu 266 Jesuits' College 261. Laval University 268. Lower Town 271. Marine IIosp 272. Market Sq. 260. Martello Towers 270. Montcalm Ward 270. Morrin College 265- N. D. des Victoires 271. Parliament Building 263. Post-Offlce 264. St. John Ward 269. St. Roch 272. Seminary 262. Ursuline Gonv. 264. Quemo Gospen 213. Quiddy Viddy 196. Quirpon, N. F. 220. Quispamsis, N B. 70. Quoddy Head 26. Ragged Harbor 201. Ra^ed Ids. 212. Ramea Ids. N. F. 215. Ram Id. 121. Ram's Ids. N. F. 212. 329 i, Random Sound 909. Rankin's Mills, N. B. 87. Rapide de Femme 66. Rapids, Lachine 818. Meductic 52. St, Anne 820. St. Mary's 819. Terres Rompues 800. Red Bay 228. RedClifi8,Lab.220,228. Red Head, N. F. 200. Red Hills, N. P. 199. Red-Indian Pond 210, 211. Red Ids. 147. Red Point 182. Red Rapids. N. B. 64. Remsheg, N. S. 81. Renewfe, N. F. 198. Renlrew,N. S. 82. Repentigny, P. Q. 808- Re8tigouche River 69, 66. Richibucto, N. B. 60. Richmond Bay 178. Rigolette, Lab. 226. Kimouski, P. Q. 250. River, Avon, N S. 91. Charlo, N. B. 66. Deuys, G. B. 166. Gold, N. S. 128 Qouffre, P. Q. 292. Hillsborough 180. Humber, N F. 219. John,N S.81. LaHave, N. S. 128. Louison, N. B. 66. Magagnadavic Si. Mauitou, Lab. 282. Minunichi 61. Mistassini 301. MoiRic. Lab. 232. Nvpisiguit66.56. of Castom 219. Exploits 210. Ottawa 320. Petitcodiac 72. Philip, N. S. 80. Restigouche 69, 56. Saguenay 297, '^S8. St. Anne, P. Q. 288. St. Croix, N. B 83. St. John, Lab 282. St. Lawrence 246, 806 St. Marguerite 805. St. Mary's, N. S. ISa St Maurice 807. Riversdale, N. S 186. River, Tobique 64. Riviere ^I'Ours 301. k Mars 302. du Loup 295, 252. Maheu 290. Quelle, P. Q. 252. Robbinston, Me. 38. Bobenral, P. Q. 801. 330 INDEX. Boblnwm'i Point 48. Roohette, N. B. 88. Bock, Perc« 242. BockUnd, N. B. 78. Bockport 78. Booky Bay, N. F. 210. Rocky Lake, N. S. 82. BoUoBay.P.E. 1.182. Bosades, The 251. Bom Bay 119. Bose Blanche 216 BoMignol Lake 130. Rossway, N. S. 116. Bothesay 22, 70. Bough Waters €6. Bound Harbor 211. Boute des Pretren 290. Royalty June. 177. Bostico, P. £. I. \78. Sabbattee Lake 127. Babimm Lake 124. Sable Id. 134. SackviUe, If . B. 78. Sacred Ida. 220. Saddle Id. 227. Bagona Id. 214. Saguenay River 297. St. Agnes, P. Q. 295. St. Albans, P. Q. 281. St. Alexis 69, 302. St. Alphonse, P. Q. 802. St. Andrews, N.B. 33,28. St. Andrews, P. E. I. 181. St. Andrew's Channel 165. St. Angel de Laval 307. St. Anne (bout de I' L) 320 St. Anne de Beaupr^ 285. St. Anne de la Perade 307. St. Anne de la Pocatiire 253 St. Anne des Monjs 249. St. Anne du Nord 285. St. Anne du Saguenay 800. St. Anne Mts. 287. St. Anne's Bay 158. St. Anthony 221. St. Antoine de Tilly 806. St. Antoine Perou 292. St. Ars^ne 296. St. Augustin 806. St. Barbe 219. St. Basil 57. St. Bruno 319. St. Cici\e du Die 251. St. Charles Harbor 227. St. Colomb 280. St. Croix, P. Q. 306. St. Croix Cove 89. St. CroizBiver88. St. Cuthbert 808. St. David's 178. St. Denis, P. Q. 252. St. Donat, P. Q 260. St. Eleanors, P. B. 1. 179. St. Eltebeth, P. Q. 806. St. Esprit, C. B. 148. St. Etienne Bay 806. St. Fabien, P. Q. 261. St. Famine, P. Q. 289. St. FeUcitoS P. Q. 249. St. Felix de Yalois 808. St. Fereol, P. Q. 287. St. Fiddle, P. Q. 296. St. Flavie 70, 250. St Foy, P. Q. 281. St. Francis 68. St. Francis Harbor 225. St. Fran^ob 290. Fran9ois du Lac 808. FrauQois Xavier 292. Fulgence 801. Genevieve 219. George, N. B. 82. George's Bay 217. George's Channel 166. St. Germain de Rim. 260. St. Iren«e 294. St. Ignace, Cap 268. St. Jaques '^14. St. Jean Baptlste 318. St. Jean Df»chaiUons 807. St. Jean d'Orleans 290. St. Jean-Port-Joll 258. St. Jerome, P. Q. 801. St. Joachim 287. St. John, N. B. 16. Cathedral 18. Custom-House 17. Gen. Pub. Uosp. 18. Harbor 15. King Square 16. Post-Office 17. St. Paul's 19. Trinity 17. Valley, The 19. Wiggins Asyl. 17. Y. M. C. A. 16. St. John, Lake 801. St. John's, N. F. 189. Anglican Cathedral 191. Colonial Building 192. Gov't House 192. Harbor 189. Narrows 191. Roman-Catholic Cathe- dral 192. Signal Hill 193. St. John's Bay 804. St. Jones Harbor 209. St. Joseph, N. B. 73. St. Joseph P. Q. 282. St. Laurent 290. St. Lawrence Bay 160. St. Lawrence River 246, 806 St. Leonard, N. B. 66. St. Leon Springs 808. St. Lewis Sound 226. St. Louis Isle 304. fit. Lnee, P. Q. S60. St. Lunaire 221. St. Margaret Bivar 288. St. Margaret's Bay 219. St. Maigaret's Bay 126. lU St. Marguerite River 806. St. Martin, P. Q. 818. St. Martin's, N. B. 71. St. Mary's, N. B. 45. St. Mary's, N. F. 218. St. Mary's Bay, N F. 218. St. Mary's Bay, N. S. 112. St.Mary'sBay.P. B.I. 181. St. Maurice Biver 807. St. Mattbieu 251. St. Michael's Bay 226. St. Michel 264. St. Modeste 296. St Norbert806. St. Octave, P. Q. 240. St. Onisime, P. Q. 268. St. Pacome, P. Q. 268. St. Paschal 252. St. Patrick's Channel 167. St. Paul's Bay 292. St Peter's, C. B. 146. St. Peter's, N. B. 65. St. Peter's, P. E. 1. 182. St. Peter's Bay 227. St. Peter's Inlet 166. St Peter's Id. 174. St. Peter, Lake 807. St. Pierre 185, 214. St. Pierre d'Orleans 289. St. Pierre les Becquets 807. St. Placide, P. Q. 292. St. Roch-des-Aulnaies 258. St. Romuald, P. Q. 282. St. Rose de Lima 818. St. Shot's, N. F. 218. St. Simeon, 295. St. Simon 251. St. Stephen, N. B. 85. St. Sulpice, P. Q. 808. St. Ther^se 318. St. Thomas, P. Q. 268. St. Tite des Caps 287* St. Urbain 292. St. YaUer, P. Q 254. St. Vincent de Paul, 818. Sali8bury,N. B. 72. SaJjnon Cove 201. Salmonier, N. F. 218. Salmon Biver 49, 71, 114. SaltMt.C. B 167. Salutation Point 174. Sambro Id. 117. Sandwich Bay 226. Sandwich Head 227. Sandybeach 244. Sandy Cove 116, 112. Sandy Point 217. Sault i la Puce 284. Sault an Coohon 291. INDEX. 331 18 12. 181. .67. 307. 258. L .8. .4. Baolt au Bceollet 818. 8aultdeMoaton288. Scatari. C B. 160. Scboodic Lakes 85. Scotchtown, N B. 48. Scotch Village 88. Sculpin Point 214. Seal Cove, N. B 29. Seal Cove, N F. 221. Sealld. N.S.124. Seal Ids. 225. Sea-Trout Point 175. Sea-Wolf Id. 169. S<>eley'8 Mills 71. Segum-Sega Lakes 180. Seldom-come-by 210. Seven Ids. Lab. 282. Shag Id. 280. Shawanegan Falls 807. Shecatica Bay 230. Shediac 59, 60,174. Sheet Harbor 132. Shelbume, N. S. 121. Shepody Bay 73. Shepody Mt. 72. Bherbrooke 133, 182. Sberbrooke Lake 90. Shinimicas, N. S 78. Ship Harbor 132. Shippigan Id. 63. Shoe Cove 211, 221. Shubenacadie 82. Sillery, P. Q. 280. SUver Falls, N. B. 22. Sir Charles Hamilton's Sound, N F. 203. Sissiboo Palls 112. Skye Glen 168. Smith's Sound 209. Smoky, Cape 159. Sorel, P. Q. 308. Souris, P. £. I. 182. South Bay, N. B. 40. South Mt. 84. South Oromocto Lake 38. Southport, F. E 1. 177. South Quebec 282. S. W Head 29. S. W. Miramichi 62. Spaniard's Bay 207. Spear Harbor 225. Spectacle Id. 120. Spencer's Id 103,104,106. Spencer Wood 280. Bpiller Rocks 202. Split, Cape 104. Split Rock, 31. Spotted Id. 225. S(>out, The 197. Spragg's Point 42. Sprague's Cove 29. Springfield, N. B. 42. Springfield, N S. S9. Springhill, N. B. 51. Spring mu, N. B. 80. Spruce Id. 81 Spruce Lake 24. Spry Bay 182. Stanley, N. B 60. Statue Point 808. Steep Creek 148. Stellarton, N. S. 186. Stewiacke 82. Stone Pillar 268. Stormont, N. S. 188. Strait of Barra 164. Strait of Belle Isle 220, 227 Strait of Canso 142. Strait of Northumberland 60, 174. 239 Strait Shore, N. F. 196. Sugar Id 60,61. Sugar-Loaf, N. B. 68. Sugar-Loaf, N. F. 200, 217 Summerside, PEL 178. Suaacadie, C. B. 164. Sussex Vale, N. B. 71. Swallow-Tail Head 29. Sydney, C. B. 160. Sydney Mines 152. Tableau, Le 808. Table Head 227. Table Roulante 248. Tabusintac 61, 62. Tadou^ac, P. Q 299. Tangier, N. S 132 Tannery West 319. Tantramar Marsh 79, 74. Tatamagouche, N. S. 81. Tea Hill, P. E. 1. 177. Tedish, N. B. 59 Temiscouata Lake 58, 295. Temple Bay, Lab 227. Tennant's Cove 42. Thoroughfare, The 48. Three Rivers 307. Three Tides, P. B. 1. 174. Three Towers, N. F. 211. Thrumcap Shoal 98. Tickle Cove 203 Tidnish, N. S. 78. Tignish, P. E. I 180. Tilt Cove 206, 211. Tilton Harbor 210. Toad Cove 197. Tobique, N. B. 54. Tolt Peak 217. Tomkedgwick River 69. Topsail, N. K. 206- Torbay, N. F. 195, 200. Tor Bay, N. S. 134. Tormentine, Cape 174. Torrent Point 227. Tracadie, N B. 62. Tracadie, N. S. 139. Tracadie, P. E. 1. 181. Tracadieg68h 67, 289. TneT*s Lake 71. Tracy's Mills, 88. TravexM, Cape 174. Tremont, N. 8. 89. Trepassey, N. F. 2181 Trinity, N. F. 201. Trinity Bay 208, 201. Trinity, Cape 808. Trinity Cove 160. Trois Pistoles 261. Trois Rivieres 807. Trou St. Patrice 290. Trouty, N. F. 210. Truro, N. S. 81. Tijon, P. £ 1. 174. Tusket Ids. 126. 115. Tusket Lakes 116. Tweednogie, C. B. 148. Tweedside, N. B. 88. Twillingate, N. F. 206. Ungava Bay 228. Upper Caraquette 66. Upper Gagetown 48. Upper Muequodoboit 82. Upper Queensbury Bi, Upsalquitch River Gd. Utopia, Lake 82. VanBuren,Me. 66. Vanceboro, Me. 88. Varennes, P. Q. 808. Veasie, Me. 89. Venison Id. 225. Vernon River 181. Victoria 53. Victoria Line 168. Victoria Mines 162. Virginia Water 195. Wallace Valley 80. Walrus Id. 281. Walton 106, 93. Wapitaguu Har. 280. Wapskehegan River 54. Ward's Harbor 211. Washademoak Lake 47. Wash-shecootai 231 Watagheistic Sound 280 Watchabaktchkt 164. Watt June. 87. Waverley Mines 82. Waweig, N. B. 86. Welchpool,N B. 26. Wellington 179. Welsford, N. B. 88. Wentworth, N S. 80. West Bay, C. B. 165. Westchester, N. S. 80. Westfield, N. B. 41. West Isles 31. West Point 179. West Port, N. S. 117. West River 225. 3S2 INDEX. W«jnofith, N< 8. 112. Whale C 29. White Bay 221. White IlATon 184. White Hone 81. White's Cove 49. Whycoeomash, G. B. 167. Wickham, 42, 47. WIclclow, N. B. 68. Wiggins Cove 49. WllUam Henry 806. Wiloiot Springs 89. Wilson's Beach 26. Wilton Qrove 210. WindM>r, N. 8. 91, 101. WindKor June. 82, 98. Windsor Lake 196. Wine Harbor 138. Wiseman's Core 221. WItleM Bay Jl. F. 197. Wolf River 281. WolfWlle 107. 91. Wolves, The 26, 81. Wood Pillar 268. Woodstock 60, 87. Yarmouth, N. 8. 114. 126. York Riyer 174. Index to Historioal and Biognraphioal Allniioni. Acadian Exiles 108, 113, 131 Annapolld Ro.val, N 8. 86. Anticoflti, P. Q. 284. Aukpaque, N. B. 46. AvaloD, N. F. 198. Bathurst, N. B. 65. Bay BuUa.V. P. 197. BayorOhaleur65. Beaubassin and Beauseionr 78. BIc Island, P. Q. 260. Bras d Or, G. B. 165. BrJbenf, P^re 266. Brest, Lab. 230. Campobello Id., N. B. 26. Canada, Lower 285. Canada, the name of 245. Canso, N. S. 144. Cape Breton 149 Cape Breton (old ProTlnce) 141. Cape Broyle, N. F. 197. Cape Ghatte, P. Q. 249. Cape Despair, P. Q. 241. Gape d'Or, N. S. 104. Cape Sable, N. S. 123 Gape Sambro, N. S. 118. Garaquette, N. B. 66 Carbo&ear, N. F. 208. Cartier's Voyages 193, 204, 245,272,293. Cangbnawaga, P. Q. 819. Cha'inplain, Samuel de 273. Gharlottetown, P. E. 1. 176. Chateau, Lab. 227. Chateau Bigot, P. Q. 280 Ohlteau Richer, P. Q 284. Chaumonot, P^re 270. Chenetcook, N. S. 131. Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. Clare Settlements, N. S. 113. Conception Bay, N. F. 206. Constitution and Quenriere 200. Cdte de Be^uprS 276. D'Aolnay and La Tour 19, 87, m. D'Avaugour, Baron 246. Dawson, Dr. J. W. 138. Dead Islands, N. F. 216. Eastport, Me- 27. Esquimaux, the 228. Ferryland, N. F. 198. Fort La H Jve, N. S. 119. Forts Lawrence and Cum- berland 78. Fort Mcductic, N. B. 62. Frcdcricton, N. B. 46. Frontcnac, Count de 262, 273. aasp^, P. Q 244. Gilbert, Sir Humphrey 135, 193. Olooscap 19, 41, 102, 106, 120, 137, 144. Goat Island, N. S. 86. Grand Banks 199. Grand Lake, N. B; 48. Grand Manan 28. Grand Pr6, N. S. 108. Guysborough, N. S. 134. Haliburton, Judge 92. Halifax, N. S. 99. Huron Indians 279, 289. Indian Lorette 279. Ingonish, C. B. 159. isle aux Coudres 293. Isle of Orleans 288. Jemseg, N. B. 42. Jesuits, the 261, 266, 275, 281 ' King's Golloge 92. Labrador 222, 223- Lachine, P. Q. 319. Lake St. John, P. Q. 801. Lake Utopia, N. B. 32. Liverpool, N. S. 120. Lord's.Day Gale 170, 153, 186. Louisbourg, G. B. 164, 149. Lunenburg, N. S. 118. Madawaska, N. B. 67. Magdalen Islands 18i4. Mahone Bay, N. 8. 128. Maugerville. N. B. 48. Micmae Indians 68f 147,168, 244. MinganIdB.,Lab. 281. Miramicbi District 68. MiscouId.,N.B. 64. Montreal, P. Q. 817. Moravian Missions 226. Murray Bay, P. Q. 296. New Brunswick 14. Newfoundland 187, 201, 202, 204.222. Norsemen , the 128, 204, 246. Nova Scotia 76. Oromocto, N B. 43. Passamoquoddy Bay 27. Penobscot Indians 39. Perc;, P. Q. 243. Pictou, N. S. 137. Placentia, N. F. 212. Pleasant Point, Me. 27. Port I^atour, N. 8. 122. Port Mouton, N 8. 121. Prince Edward Island 172. Quebec 272. Red Indians 210, 218. . Restigouche 69. Richibucto Indians 60. Rividre du Loup 296. Riviere Ouelte 262. Roberviils, the 301. Robin & Co. 240. Sable Island 136. Saguenay River 298- St. Anne de Beaupr^ 286. St. Anne's Bay, C. B 168. St. Augustin, P. Q. 806. St. Croix Island 34. St. Joachim, P. Q. 287. St. John, N. B. 19. St. John River 40. St. John's, N. F. 193. St. Mary's Bay 112. St. Paul's Bay 292. St. Paul's Island 160. St. Peter's, G. B. 146. St. Pierre, Miq. 186. INDEX. 26. Bcottiab Mi^mtloii 104. Sillery, P. Q z81. Sorel, P. Q. 308. Strait of Belle Iste 220. Sydney, C B 161. Sydney C!oal-Minee 158. TadoniM, P. Q. m^, Tilbunf, Wreck of the 148. Trepaseey, N. F 213 Trois Pifltoles, P. Q. 261. Truro, N. 8. 81. Unulines of Quebec 266. Index to Qnotationi. WaDMT'e Expedition 241. WalUs.AdmlnllOO. Williams, Gen. 100. Windsor, N S. 92. Yarmotttb, N. 8. 114. 333 168, 202, 246. r. L72. J5. 158. J. Alezaoder, Sir J. E. 88, 68. Baillie, T. 48. Ballantyne, R. M. 292. Beecher, Henry Ward 268. Boucher 2d2. Bouchette, R. 247, 278. BougiiDTille 288. Bonnycastle, Sir R. 67, 1%, 218. Brown, Richard 141, 154, 165, 167, 169, 166,233. Buies, Arthur 240, 243, 244, 248, 260. Cartier, Jacques 204, 246, 288, 298. Champlain 124, 273, 295. Charlevoix 30. 77, 150, 158, 184, 204, 233, 288,247,289,293,299,800. Coaens, F. 3. 92, 96, 100, 111, 181, 140, 142, 147, 166. Gr^mazie. 0. 247. DawBon, J. W. 102, 142. De Costa, B. F. 28, 29, 80. De Millc. Prof 105. Dilke, Sir Charles 258, 269. Dufforin, Lord 237. Ferland, Ahh6 282, 248, 28a Fiset, L J. C 247. Gesner, Dr. A. B. 32, 36, 48, 66. Oilpin, Dr. 134. Gordon, Hon. Arthur 61, 62, 63, 66, 66, 62, 67. Grey 247. Haliburton, Judge 90, 91, 109, 111, 113. HaUock, Charles 67, 78. 103, 126, 127, 128, 129, 130. 169, 170, 225, 227, 240, 801. nomilton, 88. Hardy, Capt. 129, 190, 131. Hawkins's Quebec 266, 259, 261, 272. Hcriot, George 279, 284. Hind, Prof. 282,233. Howells, W. D. 260, 268, 276, 278, 280, 281 SC 908 Imray's'&Ml/WjDirect/ona 73, 158,169,248. Johnston, ProC J. F. W. 23, 31, 45, 57, 71, 117. Jukes, Prof. J. B. 189, 196, 196, 216, 218. E don, 1798) Catechism of the History of Newfoundland ; by W. 0. St. John. (Boston, 1866.) Pedley*8 Hiatory of Newfoundland. Anspaeh's Hiatory of Newfoundland. Newfoundland in 1842 ; by Sir R H. Bonnycastle. (2 Tols. ; London, 1842.) Toyage of H. M. 8. Rosamond; by Lieut. Chappell, R. N. (London, 1818.) Lost amid the Forh; by Lieut.-Col. McCrea, Royal Artillery. (London, 1869.) The New Priest of Conception Bay ; by R. T. S. Lowell. (Boston, 1888. ) Excursions in and about Newfoundland by Prof. J. B. Jukes. (2 Tols. : London. 1842.) Oeoloe^al Surrey of Newfoundland for 1873 ; by Alex. Murray, P. 0. S. (St. John'a, 1874.) After Iceberga with a Painter ; by Rev. L. L. Noble. (New York, 1860.) A Toyage to Labrador ; by L'Abb^ Ferland. (Quebec.) Notes on the Coaat of Labrador ; by Robertson. (Quebec.) Explorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsula ; by Prof. H. T. Hind, V. B. O. S. (2 vols. ; London, 1863.) Sixteen Years' Residence on the Coast of Labrador; by George Cartwright. (StoIb. ; Newark, 1792.) A Summer Cruise to Labrador : by Charlea Hallock. In Harper's Magaaina, YoL XXU. History and General Description of New France ; by Father P. F. X. (HiarleToix. (6 Tols. ; in Shea's translation ; New York, 1872.) Histoire de la NouTelle France ; by Marc Leacarbot. (1609 ; Paris, 1866 ; 8 Tola.) CouTs d'Histoire du Canada ; by L'Abbd Feiiand. Histoire de la Colonic Francaise en Canada ; by M. Faillon. (8 Tola. } Yille-Marie [HoQ« treall, 1865-6). History of Canada ; by F. X. Gameau. (Bell's translation ; Montreal, 1866.) History of Canada ; by John MacMuUen. (BrockTille, 1868.) NoTus Orbis ; by Johannes de Laet. (Leyden, 1688.) Les Relations des Jesuits. Lower Canada; by* Joseph Bouchette. (London, 1816.) British Dominions in North America ; by Joseph Bouchette. (2toI8. ; London, 1882.) British America ; by John M'Gregor. (2 Tols. ; London, 1882.) La France aux Colonies ; by M Rameau. (Paris, 1869.) Le Canada au Point de Yue Economique ; by Louis Strauss. (Paris, 1867.) Hochelaga, or England in the New World ; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; NewTwrk, LS46.) The Conquest of Canada; by Eliot Warburton. (2 toIs. ; London, 1849.) The First English Conquest of Canada ; by Henry Kirke. (London, 1871.) The Pioneers of France in the New World ; by Francis Parkman. (Boaton, 1866.) The .Tesuits of North America ; by Francis Parkman. The Old Regime in Canada ; by Francis Parkman. (Boaton, 1874.) Histoire du 0» lada ; b} Gabriel Sagard. (4 vols : Pails, 1866 ) Sketches of Celebrated anadians ; by Henry J. Morgan. (Montreal, 1866.) Hawkins's New Pinfur* of Quebec. (Quebec, 1884) Reminiscences of Quebec. (Quebec, 1868.) D^couTerte du Tombeau de Cbamplain ; by LaTerdi^ andCasgraln. (Qnabao, 1800.) Mapla LeaTes ; by J. M. Le Mdne. (Quebec.) 336 INDEX. L»ttnfl iiir TAmeriqu* ; by X. Maimier. (Paris.) Account of a Journey between Hartford and Quebec ; by Prof. B. WlHBMin. (1820.) Taylor's Canadian Handbook. (Montreal.) English America; by S. P. Day. (2 vols ; London, 1864.) Three Years in Canada ; by John MacTaggart. (2 vols. ; London, 1829.) Western Wanderings ; by W. H. O. Kingitton. (2 vols. ; London, 1866.) Sketches of Lower Canada : by Joseph Sanson. (New York, 1817.) The Canadian Dominion ; oy Charles Blarshall. (London, 1871.) Five Years' Residence in the Canadas ; by J<. A. Talbot. (2 vols. ; London, 1824.) Sketches from America ; by John Wliite. (London, 1870.) Travels through the Canadas ; by George Heriot. (Loadon, 1807.) British Possessions ; by M. Smith. (Baltimore, 1814.) Adventures in the Wilds of America : by Charles Lanxnan. (2 vols. : Philadelphia, 1856.) Pine-Forests ; by Lieut -Col. Sleigh. (London, 1858.) The travels of Ifoll, Lyell, Trollope, Dickens, Johnston, etc. Bref Recitet Succincte Narration de la Navigation faite en MDXXXY. et MDXXXYL par le Capitaine Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1863 ) The Principal Navigations, Voyages, etc., of the English Nation ; by Richard Hak- luyt. (1589-1600.) Les Yovages i, la Nouvelle France, etc. ; by Samuel de Champlain. (1682 ; Paris, 1830.) Relation dplication. Address as above. nts roKK* ICET8 tOUT ES, Lrealcs io, I above. CO. OCEAN DAY ROUTE TO PORTLAND. " OM-eataUlahed Line oTSteHDen betweoi Boston, Portland, Eastport, and St. John, N. B., ^ With Conneetloiu to OALAIS,M£.,OAHPOB£LLO,N.R,HALIFAX,N.S^ CHARLOTTETOWN, p. E. I., And aU Parts N& FALMOUTH, moo tons.. CITY OF PORTLAND, moo tons, I^aye th« end of O oinm e rul al Wh*rf. Bostok, at 8J0 a. m. and BaUroad Whui; PoBTLAHDiat 6.00 p. M. for EASTPOBT and ST. JOHN, with u«aal eonneetioni, erMf- MoNDAT, WBDxasDAT, and Wkidat, tot the season, with mora ftcqne&t tvlpain Jnlf, Aaenst, and September. CSee July Folder for partlcnlars..! The Homing and Noon Trains of the Eastern and Boston A Haine BaUroad* eonnaet with Steamers at PortlaDd. BETUBNIK0, A BTBAMBU WILZ JLEAVB Sti John at 8.00 A. M. and Eastport at LOG P. VL BAMB. DATS. For fliriher information apidj at the Company's and Agents' OlBeea, oroSGlnlaai board thb Steamers, where THROUGH TICKBTS AND STATEBOOM8 Can be secnred. COMPANY'S OFFICE. 40 EXCHANGE STREtT, PORTLAND, MAINE. T. C. BBBSET, Prealdent and Maaager. H. J. IJBBT, Tre—wn. CAPT. J. B. COTIiE, EngiiMer-in-Clil«ft LOCAL OFFICES. BOSTON, End of Commercial Wharf ; W. H. KILBT, Agent. ST. JOHN, N. B , Rced*8 Point Wharf ; H. W. CHISHOLM, Afsnt EASTPORT, MB., International Wharf; GEO. HATES, Agent. PORTLAND, MB , Railroad Wharf ; H. P. 0. HBB8ET, Afwt. V. L. LIAVITT, Tmv«lllfiB Agsnt. '-1 .<>^ ' ii^ QUEBEC STEAMSHIP COMPANY. Bormada, Wot India and St. lAwrence Steamship lines* 9TBAMBRS LBAVB NEW YORK PROM PIBR 47, NORTH RIVER, Bmj llteniAte Thursday at 3 F. M. In April, Kay and June Every Thnndaji m 8T. Um ANmDA. DOIINICA, lARTINHlUE, ST. IDCIA, Bil KBADOS AND TRINIDAD EVERY SEVENTEEN DAYS. Ooonections by Steamer with the other West India lalands, Demeraia and Venexuela. t Daring the Season of Navigation Steamers leave Montreal and Qnebeo FOR FATHER POINT, METIS, GASPE, PERCE, 8UMMEB8IBE and CHABLOTTETOWN, P. E. I., and PICTOV, H. 8. Connecting with Steamers and Railroads for all parts of The BRITISH PROVINCES and UNITED STATES. ' At Picton with Bailway for HALIFAX, thence by Cromwell Line of Steamers for New York or Newfoundland. TICKETS FOB SAI.E at all the Principal Ticket Offices in the United States alid Canada ; at Leve & Aldem's Offices, 207 Broadway, N. T. ; Cor. Broad and Chestnut Sts., Philadelphia; 16 State St., Boston; Chicago and MontrML A> JB, Oui«rhridge A Co,, Agenta, W, Moore, Manager* 51 Broadway, New York. AMERICAN GUIDE-BOOKS. •aUia CTCiTtlilag which the trmTellcr wnU «• ka*w, !■ pnckcly tk« thifr ht waato to have It."— Bwtoa Joarnal. The best companions for all travellers who wish to get the largest possMe atnotmt of informatioH a$ut pleasure out of a summer journey. Arranged on the celebrated Baedeker Plan, indorsed by all European travellers. The Histonr, Poetry, and Le^nds of each locality, tersely and clearly given. Scores of Maps, City Plans, and Panoramas. Giving Prices and Liocations of all Hotels and Boarding-Houses, Summer-BeForts, and Routes. NEW en^:lax«i>. MARITIME PBOYIKCES. MIDDLE STATES. WHIT^ MOUNTAINS. 400 to 600 pages each. Bound in flexible tH cloth. Scores of maps. $1.50 each. " We have not only read these books with delight and studied them with profit in the seclusion of the library, but we have travelled with them and by them on the sea and land. At every point they meet you with jost the facts you wish to know ; they rspeat to you the old legend associated with this locality ; they tell .1 on the story of the bakj^ fbught there ; thev hum to you the song, or murmur the lines in which some poet has enshiined events b> which a spot has become memorable. A condensed literature ef great variety and richness is stored up within their pages. They are simply indisnen* sable to tourists in the regions named, and those who have sallied forth wittiout them have omitted the really most important part of thdr equipment."— Ltferary World. JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO.. BOSTON. Y. /BR. iday. St. John and Main'^ Railway. L« and «e RCE, H.8. TES. land. ) United Y. ; Oor. ;ago and anagetm imotmt of elleTS. en. r-Beforts, lES. L.50 eaeb. ^h profit in ]on the eea ; tbey ptoryofthe i some poet lUtentare rindispen- jout uiem THE ONliT ALIi RAIZi XiIZfB A Between the MARITIME PROVINCES And the ^ UNITED STATES, Venning, with its Connections, the Most Direct Route between the EASTERN AND SOUTHERN STATES And ST. JOHN, HALIFAX, AND PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. Connecting at St. John with the Intercolonial Railway and Bay of Fundy Steamers. Also with Steamers of the Biver St. John for Fredeiicton. fivo Trains Dally between 8t. John and Boston. Commencing June 18th, 1883, a Fast Express Train, During the Summer Season, will leave St John at 7 a. m. and arrive in Boston the same day at 10 p. M., in time to connect with the train for New York, and a similar train will leave Boston at 12.80 p. h., arriving at St. John at 6.30 A. M. the following day. Parlor Cars with Horton Beclining Chairs will be run through on these trains. Pullman Sleeping Cars on night trains. jr. MUMRAT KAT, Manager. B. 1>. MeLEOJD, Supt. if' ffim Steamers to Prince Edward Island, ST. LAWRENCE, PRINCESS OF WALES, OAPT. IVANS, m- OArr. OAMBMON, Make DaUy Trip» between SUMMERSIDE, F. E. I., And POINT DU CHENE, NEW BRUNSWICK, Oonneetlng at both places with OoTenunent RaUwayi; At the former for Charlotteto-wn and THE LATTER FOR ST, JOHN And all plaicee In Canada and the United States. Pasaeniten leare St John at 8 a. u. and arriTe at Charlottel^own at 8 P. M. Leave Oharlottetown at 6.30 A. M. and arrlTe at St. John at 7.80 ?. u. Also Leave Charloltetown for Plctou on Monday, Wednesday, ThnTsday, and Saturday, eonneeting there with Railway to Halifiix or Cape Breton ; returcing ftom Pictou on antral of Morning Train from Halifox on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. For ftariher information apply to F. W. HALES, Seeretarjf P. E. I, SUam Navigation Co» Obablottbtowh. SIXTH THOUSAND NOW READY. TH£ COBBESPOMDEMCE OF THOMAS OARI.TLE AND BAIf H WALDO EMERSON: 1834 TO 187S. With fine portraits'of Garlyle and Emerson, etched for this work. Edited by Chaklm BuoT NosTON. 2 vols. 12mo, silt top, rough edges, $4.00; half calf, 98.00; half morocco, gilt top, uncut edges, $800. The International Review: "It may woll be doubted whether the Anglo-Saxon world will have submitted to it for many a year to come such a literary treasure as is here presented.'' The Pall Mall Oaxette : ** It is pleasant to hare this chapter added to the record of tenons literanr fHendships." The Dial: " We shall have no passages firom the lives of Carlyle and Emerson more prsolous." St. Jameses Budget: '*A more interesting and suggestive collection of letters has not been |riven to the world since the appearance of the correspondence of Goethe and Sehiller." UppineotVs Magazine: " Their interest is incontestible and unbroken." The Athenenm (London) : " These two volumes shed a beautiful light upon a fi^nd- ahip as warm as it was singular. . . . They abound in passages of rare beauty." The Atlantic Monthly : ** The memory of a flue friendship has been added to the spir- itual inheritance of the world." GcoRai WauAM Ccbtis, in Harper's Mageuine : " None can read the record without receiving a blessing from its refinement and invigoration." Ttie Independent : " The correspondence Is so beautifhl in itself and so rich in all ways as to relieve us even fh>m the temptation to say that there is no other like it in the world." The Westminster Review : " A beautifhl supplement and key to the lives and writ- inn of tb'-t authors ; a book not to be skimmed, but read again and again." The Bruish Quarterli/ Review : "A very attractive book. We trust it will be widely tmd, as it deserves to be.** ^ JAME8 R. OSGOOD A CO., BOSTON. 1 \i t ' ind, bES, ICK. and I. LMte Batnrday, Pictoaon Baiurdaj. nation Co* RALPH Br Chaklbs 8.00; half glo^azon isureasis record of rMn more n has not. oetheand B a firlend* ty." othespir- rd without In all ways :e it in the I and writ- Ibe widely t\ I A CBfiAP AND DSLIGHTFUL SX7MMEB TRIP. Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line. Boston to Charlottetown, P. E. I., 8TOPPINO AT Halifax, Port Hawkesbury, C. B., & Pictou, N. S. The fkToiite Margoins Steftmshlp* CARROLL (1,400 tons) and WORCESTER (1,400 ton*) Oapt. QKORQK H. BROWN, Oapt. J. W. BLANKINSHIP, Iieave Nickersoii s Wharf, Congress St., Boston, For the above Porto, EV£BY SATUEDAY, AT 12 OmOOK. These steamers connect with the NOVA SCOTIA railways and coa8t>Unfla at HaUfaz and Picton, giving opportnuitles tcvisit the chief attractions of the Maritime IProvincee. At Port Hawkesbury they connect with stages for all parts of the Island of CAPE BRETON, and for the renowned and beautiful BRAS D'OR LAKES. From Charlottetown the tourist can visit any part of Prlnoe Edward Ialand» by the trains of the new Oovemment Railway. The Steamships of this Line have UNSURPASSED ACCOMMODATIONS FOR PASSENGERS. For tickets and farther information, i4>piy to WM. H. RING, or A. DeW. SAMPSON, Vlckerson*e Wharf, Congress St. HOI Washinirton St. LEVE & ALDEN ■ ^B^ i -A.l^ER.IO-A.N TOURS < ^mm » Tonrift tickets for individual travellen issoed to all SUMMER AND WINTER RESORTS In America, embracing the MAKITIME PROVINCES, SAGUENAY RIVER, QUEBEC, « MONTREAL, WHITE MOUNTAINS, RANQELEY LAKES, MOUITT DESERT, THOUSAND ISLANDS, NIAO-ARA FALLS, &c., &o., By any known route and at Reductions from Ordinary Rates- Messrs. Lbyb & Aldek are the General Agents for many first-class lines, and in addition issue their own tickets over a large number of railway and steamship routes, embracing the leading resorts and picturesque channels of travel which tourists wish to visit. 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" FuU of cleverness, apd provokes compariaou with some of the best things of Thackeray.*' — A'wif Fi«r*5'<«r. " I don't recall a work of fictipn for the latt, year that seems so absoki^y indupensable for one to read as this collection. These stories are representative of Mr. James in his best, his most brilliant, and most suggestive work. The fsM^nation of Mr. James isas illusive as light, and as all-pervading." —'SlLenie OMe-Democrai. . .. ^ ",- » DOCTOR GRIMSHAWE'S SECRET. By Nathaniel Hawthornb. Edited by Julian HawthoTne< x vol., «sim«, 380 pages. J1.50. " And here, out of a trunk of dd papers, such as he loved to have ^ his stories, comes a romance of his own, tingling with aH the old Hawthorne mys^iy, rich with all the old — we must c^ll it old— Hawthorne imagination, grim with the Hawthorne uncailniness, and touched all over with the UBLISH lUustiated and Standard Works, Fine-Art, Architectural and Technical' Books, and Books in General Literature, — Poetry, Essays, 'ff. Biognipfay, &c., and the latest and best Works of — wnuAM ». hvmuM, kabx rwAoi. naftT JAUSB, Jr., wnxIAM WXHTSB. annai p. uk'noM, katb baxbobjk, 3AB. nOMAM aULBME, SOBBB* OBAIIT, ma. r. x. BOBMitr. sou TBUTOOOXX. MLUtaSM W. HOWABO. MEMORIAL HISTORY OF BOSTON, X630-ZJB80. Justin Winsor, Editor. C. F. Jbwbtt, SuperintendetU. Four volumes, auarto. About 2,^00 pages. Copiously illustrated with mwp&ffac-timiUs^ portraits, and views. Prepared by seventy writers, of ac- knowledged ability in their several de- Eartnients,and rendered homogeneous y their sympathetic co-operation and nnhy of purpose. ^ Among these are Holmes and Whittier, Adams and Winthro^ Hale and Higginson, Pal- frey and Putnam, Governor Long and Phillips Brooks, Drake and Trumbull, James F. Clark^ and A. P. Peabody. StfMPTUOUS lUilsf RATED BOOKS. Llicil«. 160 illustrations. The Lftdy of the Lake. New in 1883. EdHtoHS de Litxtj crowded with pic- tures by the best American artists, exouisitely engraved. Rich bindings and the finest paper. HEtlOTYPTiiCRAVINGS, From Masterpieces of Art. printed on fine plate-paper (to x 34 Inches) and sold for «o cents each. On exhibition in the Hbliotvpb Art Gallbrv, 213 Tremont Street. Dtscr^toe Catahguts setti frte to applicanis. THE AND AMERICAN ARCHITECT BUILDWG NEWS. A Weekly Illustrated Journal of Ar- chitecture, Construction, Decoration, and the Fine Arts. Terms: Per year, I7.50, or, if paid in advance, $6.00. For six months, $3.50. For the twelve monthly num- bers, $i.7S< Caialogttilt MiHtfrte to all a^icamts. NEW BOOKS. Mark Twain's Life on the If is- sissippi. Ware's Modern Perspective. Block Farm to Cedar Mountain. Machiavelli's Works. 4 vols. Correspondence of Carlyle and Emerson (i^ to 187s). Edited by Charles Eliot Norton. Conway's Emerson at Home and Abroad. Poole's Index to Periodical Liter- ature. The Works of James A. Oarfleid. VALUABLE NEW BIOGRAPHIES. Longfellaw. By F. H. Unobs- weoD. Lowell. By F. H. Underwood. Emerson. By G. W. Cooks. Garfield. By B. A. Hinsdalb. Dahlgren. By Mrs. M. V. Dahi^ GRBN. Byron. By Ji C. Jeaffrbson. Lieber. By T. S. Pbrry. Hawthorne. By Juuan Haw- thorns. (In press.) George Eliot. By G. W. Cooke- (In press.) FAMOUS NEW BOOKS ON TRAVa. Nantucket fljCraps. By Jans G. Austin. A Walk in Hellas. By Dbnton J. Snidbr. Among the Asores. By L. H. Wbbks. Japanese Episodes. By E. H. Iousb. apa He The Trip ,to England. By Wil- liam WlltTKR