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PHILADELPHIA: THOMAS, COWPERTHWAIT dt CO. 1846. r- Entered, according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1846, by THOMAS, COWPERTHWAIT & CO. in the clerk's office of the District Court for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. (2) ^1 DESCKIPTION or THE STATE OF TEXAS. 'i i by ricl Texas was annexed by the universal desire and con- sent of her people and Legislature, as well as by the consent of tlic Congress of the United States, in Decem- ber 1 845, as the twenty -eighth State of the American confederacy. From the year 1836 to the period of an- nexation, it formed the independent Republic of Texas. Previous to that date, it was connected with CohahuilOf and with it comprised one of the States of Mexico. The state extends from 26° to 42° north latitude, and from longitude 17° 20' to 28° 50' west of Washington city. Its boundaries, as defined by an Act of the Texan Congress, are as follows : ** Beginning at the mouth of the Sabine River, and running west along the Gulf of Mexico, three leagues from land, to the mouth of the Rio Grande ; thence up the principal channel of said river to its source ; thence due north to the 42° of north latitude ; thence along the boundary line as defined in the treaty between the United States and Spain, in tlic year 1619, to the place of beginning. The area within the above boundaries is estimated at 324,018 square miles, or 207,371,520 acres. From the foregoing it will be seen that Texas is a large and comprehensive state, being seven times the area of Pennsylvania, and more than two and a half times larger than Great Britain and Ireland. A line drawn from the mouth of the Rio Grande or Rio del Norte, io a direction N. W. by N. to H 7 « "" I 4 DKSCRIPIION OF THE the north-west corner of the state, on the 42" of north latitude, would measure 1300 miles nearly ; a direct line from Galveston to Santa Fe, 820 miles ; and an east and west line, on the 32d parallel of latitude, from tlie eastern boundary of the state to the Rio Grande, would be 650 miles in length. Texas is nearly all comprised in the southern part of that vast interior plain of Nortli America which extends from the Arctic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico. Though comparatively a dry country, it is well supplied by rivers : commencing on the east by the Sabine, that stream is followed in sequence by the Trinity, Brazos, Colorado, Guadalupe, San Antonio, Nueces, and Rio Grande del Norte. The sea-coast, into which these rivers are dis- charged in a distance of about 400 miles, is indented by Sabine Lake or Bay, Matagorda, Espiritu Santo, and numerous lesser bays and inlets, besides the mouths of the rivers, yet does not present a single haven admitting vessels of large draught. Galveston bar has 12 feet of water, San Luis Inlet 10 feet, and the entrance to Ma- tagorda Bay 11 feet: south of the latter, the entrances of the rasses or inlets are seldom over 4 feet. The Sabine River is navigable for small steamboats about 100 miles. The Neches, the chief tributary of the Sabine, 80 miles ; the Trinidad 150 miles, and the Bra- 20S 250 miles. The Colorado is obstructed by a raft 10 miles above its mouth, but measures are in progress for removing this, when it is anticipated that it will be navigable for small steamboats to Austin, more than 200 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. The Guadalupe, San Antonio, and Nueces rivers, are navigable for short distances only. The Rio Grande, Rio del Norte or Rio Bravo, (for it is known by all these different names,) has a course of not less than 1800 miles ; yet it is of but little importance as a navigable channel, being generally so shallow, except within 200 miles of its mouth, that In- dian canoes can hardly float in it, and occasionally, during the heat of summer, it is, in places, entirely dry and without water. \ ^4 STATE OF TEXAS. orth line and tern 650 The general aspect of Texas is that of a \w \ inclined plane, gradually sloping from the mountains on the west, south-eastward to the sea, and intersected by numerous rivers, nearly all having a south-easterly direction. It is divided into three separate regions : the first extends along the coast inland, from 70 to J 00 miles in width. The soil of this region is chiefly a rich alluvium, with scarcely a stone, yet singularly free from stagnant swamps. Broad woodlands fringe the banks of the rivers, between which are extensive and rich pasture lands. The second division, the rolling prairie region, extends for 150 or 200 miles farther inland, its wide, grassy tracts alternating with others that are thickly timbered. These last are especially prevalent in the east, though the bottoms and river valleys through- out the whole region are well wooded. Limestone and sandstone form the common substrata of this region ; the upper soil consists of a rich friable loam, mixed to some extent with sand. The third, or moun- tain region, situated in the west and north-west, forming the eastern division of the Rocky Mountain range, is but little known : many portions of it consist of an elevated table-land, where the prairies not unfrequently resemble the vast steppes of Asia. The southern part of Texas, lying between the Nueces River and the Rio Grande, is different in character from the other parts of the country, being usually considered as a desert. Fresh water and grass are scarce, yet the mustang or wild horse is frequently met with. The vegetation consists chiefly of tlie musquit-bush matted with vines, which grows six or seven feet high, and is difficult to penetrate. The Mexicans call this species of thicket happoral ; it covers the whole region in ques- tion, and is interspersed with small salt lakes and ponds. In the month of March 1846, the American army, commanded by General Taylor, marched from Corpus Christi across this desert to the Rio Grande opposite to Matamoras. The march occupied 17 days, being lengthened nearly one half by the necessity of diverging 1* ( 6 DESCRIPTION or THE \i 1 i I i t; I from a direct line in order to reach the various springrg of li^esh water scattered along the track. In the lower part of their courses, the Nueces and Rio Grande are about 120 miles apart. The Texan year consists of a wet and a dry season. The former lasts from December to March, during which N. and N. E, winds are most prevalent ; the latter, from March to the end of November, during which the fi winds vary from the S. E. round to S. W., may be sub- C' divided into spring, summer, and winter. From April c< to September, the thermometer, in different parts of the "^ country, has been found at a general average to range ^ from 63° to 100°. The warm season is, however, tem- ^ pered by continual and strong breezes, which commence ^' soon after sunrise, and continue till about 3 or 4 o'clock S^ P. M., and the nights throughout the year are cool. ^^ From March to October little rain falls, though thunder ^" storms frequently occur. During the rest of the year VC) ^^et weather is prevalent ; the rivers swell and inundate ^* the country, and the roads are generally rendered for a ^H time impassable. Snow is seldom seen in winter except ®^ on the mountains. The climate is mild and agreeable, and on the whole is admitted to be more salubrious than J"* that of Louisiana, or the adjacent parts of Mexico. ^*' The surface of Texas is in most parts covered with ^°? luxuriant native grasses, affording excellent pasturage ; "^^ it has also an ample supply of timber. Live oak is ^^^ abundant, white, black, and post oak, ash, elm, hickory, J^^ musquite, walnut, sycamore hois d'arc, so called from ~^0 the Indians using it to make their bows, cypress, &,c., San aje among the common trees, and the mountainous dist parts in the north-west abound with pine and cedar of ^^* fine quality. Among the natural curiosities of the f- CO country, is the " Cross Timbers," a continuous series of inipj forests, varying in breadth from 5 to 10 miles, and ex- shal, tending in a direct line from the sources of the Trinity, dian northward to the Arkansas river. It appears at a dis- durij tance like an immense wall of wood ; and from the west, and such is its linear regularity, that it looks as if it were STATE OF TEXAS. )rings lower |de are season. [during latter, iich the 5 sub- April of the to range er, tem- mmence o'clock lire cool. thunder the year inundate red for a or except Lgrceable, ious than jxico. ered with asturage ; ve oak is , hickory, lied from >res3, &.C., untainous I cedar of BS of the \ series of s, and ex- e Trinity, 3 at a dis. 1 the west, if it were planted by art. It forms the great boundary of the western prairies. Texas is amply supplied with fruits and garden pro- ducts. The clinjateot'the lowlands is too warm for the apple, but almost every other fruit of temperate climes comes to perfection. Peaches, melons, tigs, oranges, lemons, pine-apples, dates, olives, &c., may be grown in different localities. Grapes are abundant, and very tol- eriible wine has been made from some kinds; vanilla, indigo, sarsaparilla, and a great variety of dyeing and medicinal shrubs and plants are indigenous, and on all the river bottoms is an undergrowth of cane, so thick as to be almost impervious. Along the water-courses also and near the sea, the larger trees are sometimes wreathed with Spanish moss, which serves both for fod- der, and for the manufacture of cheap bedding, &.c. The flora of Texas is particularly rich and copious. The grains chiefly cultivated are corn and wheat: the average crop of the former on good ground, is from 50 to 60 bushels per acre : two crops may be gathered in the year, the first being usually planted in February, and the second late in June. Wheat has been cut in May, and the same land has yielded a good crop of corn in October ; rye, barley, oats, &c., are suited for the | upper country, and rice near the river estuaries, but small quantities only of these grains have hitherto been raised. The modes of husbandry in Texas are of the most simple description. The first object of the farmer after building a small and temporary log-cabin, is to enclose a suflicient space of the open level adjoining, by the erection of a rail fence ; he then proceeds to break up the land with a light plough, which is usually drawn by oxen. The Texan farmers generally content themselves with one ploughing previously to planting ; manuring is seldom resorted to ; the seed-time for some cotton and most other crops is in February and March : a few hoe- ings to destroy weeds, to thin and earth up the youn; d DESCRIPTION OF THE plants, is ull that is required on the part of the husband- man to bring them to perfection. Cotton is the great agricultural staple of the state, and it is aflirined to be decidedly ssuperior, as a cotton growing country, to tlie best districts in ether parts of the Union. Some cotton growing lands, yield it is said from one and a half to two bales of clean cotton per acre. Its cultivation hitherto has been principally on the Brazos and Colorado, Red and Trinity rivers, and Caney creek ; but it is steadily on the advance. Cotton planting begins in February, and picking in June. The sugar-cane is also said to attain to greater perfection than on the Mississippi, and an average of 3,000 pounds to the acre has in some cases been attained. Tobacco, the mulberry tree, and potatoes, both common and sweet, grow well. Catching wild horses on the prairies of Texas. The raising of live stock is the principal and favourite occupation of the Texans, and many of the prairies are covered with a valuable breed of oxen, which thrive well with but little attention. Profitable trade in cattle is opened with New Orleans ; and hides, horns, and tallow, are beginning to be exported to Europe. The rearing r\^»' FTATK OF TKXAS. )and. itatc, lotion Its ol' said [1 per by on K and fotton The tction >unds ucco, and of horses and mules is also extcnrfively pursued ; sheep tlirive on the uopcr lands, but require Iblding; hogs are plentiful, and large quantities of pork are raised. Herds of buffaloes and wild horses wander over the prairies. These animals have been considerably reduced in num- ber since the first settlement of the country, but are still numerous. The wild horses are often caught with a leathern rope or cord, having a running noose on one end, and in a manner similar to the mode in which wild cattle are taken on the pampas of South America. The Texan horses, or mustangs, on being properly broken, generally become useful animals. raiillior. Deer are every where abundant in Texas; beare, cougars, panthers, peccaries, wolves, foxes, raccoons, dec, are common, and many of the planters keep packs of large and powerful dogs to prevent the destruction of their herds and flocks. Most of the birds known in the other parts of the United States arc common to 'I'exas, and the bays, &-c., abound in fish of excellent quality, beds of fine oysters, and other testacea. Alli- gators are sometimes met with in the rivers, particularly Ked River and its tributaries ; turtles, &c., in the estu- aries. I'here are several kinds of venomous serpents, and, as in all other warm countries, musquitoes and other insect annoyances are common. In many parts of the rolling prairie region, coal of a 10 DESCRIPTION OF THE i; superior quality and iron ore have been found, and it has been supposed, that beds of these valuable minerals extend over a great part of the country. Silver mines were wrought towards Santa Fe in the north-west, till the works were destroyed by the Comanches. Nitre abounds in the east, salt is obtained from numerous lakes and springs, and bitumen in several places; granite, limestone, gypsum, slate, «fcc., are abundant, except in the low alluvial region. Previous to the year 1G90, Texas formed merely a nominal province of the vice-royalty of Mexico or New Spain, and was inhabited wholly by predatory Indian tribes ; but in that year the Spaniards, having driven out a colony of French, who had established themselves at Matagorda Bay, made their first permanent settle- ment at San Francisco, in the vicinity. A few other small settlements were formed, from time to time, but little or no attention seems to have been paid by the vice-regal government to such distant and profitless es- tablishments. Until the year 1821, the only places oc- cupied by a white population w^ere the Spanish posts of San Antonia de Bexar, Bahia, or Goliad, and Nacog- doches, comprising in all about 3000 inhabitants. Soon after that lime, an attempt was made to establish here the independent republic of Fredonia ; but the Mexican constitution attached the territory to the province of Cohahuila, forming one of the united provinces a State, bearing the names of both. In consequence of the en- couragement held out to settlers, there was a great in- flux of emigrants into the territory from the United States, many of whom carried with them their slaves. In 183*2, the people of Texas formed for themselves a separate State constitution, and endeavoured to obtain from the Mexican Congress an admission into the con- federacy as an independent State. This being refused, a state of things ensued which resulted in an appeal to arms. Texas was invaded by a Mexican army, headed by Santa Anna, the President, in person. At first the overwhelming numerical superiority of the invaders STATE OF TEXAS. 11 ;Iy a 'New idian gave them some advantages, which enabled them to ex- liibit a remarkable ferocity towards their prisoners, Hcveral hundreds of whom were massacred in cold blood. But this was soon reversed ; and at the battle of San Jacinto the Mexicans were utterly routed, and their President was taken prisoner by the Texans. In March, 1836, the people of Texas declared themselves indepen- dent, and afterwards formed a constitution and govern- ment and elected a chief magistrate. 1'he republic was recognized by the United States, France, England, and some other nations ; but not by Mexico. The population amounts to about 140,000, nearly all of which consists of Americans from the United States. The slaves amounted, in 1843, to 22,412. The military force was composed chiefly of volunteer troops and militia; the navy consisted of a sloop of war, two brigs, and an armed steamer, several schooners, &c. I'he value of the imports of Texas for the year ending July 31st, 1844, was $686,503.03. Exports for the same period, %15,119.34; Net duties, $177^861.85. Direct taxes levied in 1844, $50,790.52; the public debt is re- ported (but not officially) at $8,169,000. The question of annexing I'exas to the United States was agitated immediately after the declaration of Texan independence, by numerous individuals in both coun- tries, but was declined by the American government, until Mexico herself, or some of the great foreign powers, should recognise the independence of the new republic ; at least until the lapse of time, or course of events, should have proved, beyond cavil or dispute, the ability of the people to maintain their sovereignty, or to uphold the government constituted by th'^:. The events of the last eight or nine years have shown Texas as practically independent; acknowledged as a political sovereignty by tije chief European powers, and Mexico herself re- fraining from any further attempt to re-establish her authority over the new republic. During the session of 1844, M5, a bill passed both Houses of Congress of the United States, providing for 12 DESCRIPTION OF THE \W :'! the annexation of Texas. The government of the latter was somewhat tardy on the subject; but the inhabitants evinced such strong feelings in its favour, that the con- stituted authorities were at length obliged to perfect the measure. On the 18th of June 1845, the Texan Con- gress were then in session at Washington, on the Brazos River, when both Houses unanimously consented to the terms of the joint resolution of the United States, pro- viding for the admission of Texas as one of the States of the American Union. A convention of delegates of the people of Texas met July 6th, 1845, and ratified the act finally ceding the Republic to the United States. In the United States Congress, assembled at Washing. ton City, December 1845, a constitution for the govern- ment of Texas was submitted, and adopted by a vote of 141 to 56 in the House of Representatives, and 31 to 15 in the Senate. By the same resolution, it was decided that Texas should be entitled to two members of the House of Representatives until the next census of the United States. Texas has also two Senators in the national councils. The new constitution of Texas is conformable in all respects to that of the United States, and is nearly sim- ilar in its provisions with the constitutions of the other slave-holding states. Entire freedom of opinion, and liberty of the press, are guarantied. No religious test shall be required as a qualification lor office. No person shall be imprisoned for debt. No monopolies or perpe- • tuities shall be allowed, nor shall the law of primogeni- ture or entailment ever be in force in Texas. Every male white person, over twenty-one years of age, who is a citizen of the United States, or of Texas at the time of the adoption of the constitution, and who shall have resided in the state one year preceding an election, and for the last six months within the county where he offers > to vote, shall be a qualified elector. ' The executive of the State of Texas consists of a go- 1 vernor and lieutenant-governor; both elected for two < years ; the salary of the first governor is $2000 annually. STATE OF TEXAS. 13 The lieutenant-governor is president of the Senate, and is to exercise the authority of the governor in case of the death, resignation, &-c., of the latter. The Legisla- ture consists of a Senate and House of Representatives. Senators are elected for four, and Representatives for two years. The members of both Houses receive threr dollars per day for their services, and three dollars mile- age for every twenty-five miles in going to or returning from the place of meeting of the Legislature. One half of the Senate is to be renewed biennially, to effect which purpose, one half of the first chosen Senators were elected for two years only. The Judiciary consists of a Supreme Court, a District Court, and such inferior courts as the Legislature shall from time to time estab- lish ; and such jurisdiction may be vested in corporation courts as may be deemed necessary, and be directed by law. The judges of the Supreme and District Courts are appointed by the Governor, by and with ths advice and consent of the Senate, for six years. The judges of the Supreme Court receive a salary of $2000, and th'i judges of the district courts a salary of $1750 annually. 1'he constitution provides that the Legislature shall, at their first meeting, and in the years 1848 and 1850, and every eight years thereafter, cause an enumeration to be made of all the free inhabitants (Indians, not taxed, Africans, and descendants of Africans, excepted) of the State, designating particularly the number of qualified electors; and the whole number of representatives shall, at the several periods of making such enumeration, be fixed by the Legislature, and apportioned among the several counties, cities, or towns, according to the num- ber of free population in each, and shall not be less than 45, nor more than 90. Until afler the first enumeration and apportionment appointed by law, the following is to be the apportion- ment of representatives amongst the several counties, viz. : the county of Montgomery shall elect four repre- sentatives ; the counties of Red River, Harrison, Nacog- doclics, Harris and Washington, three each ; the coun- 3 ) I s 1 3 3k 5 f 14 DESCRIPTION OF THE ties of Fannin, Lamar, Bowie, Shelby, San Augustine, Rusk, Houston, Sabine, Liberty, Robertson, Galveston, Brazoria, Fayette, Colorado, Austin, Gonzales, and Bexar, two each ; the counties of Jefferson, Jasper, Bra- zos, Milam, Bastrop, Travis, Matagorda, Jackson, Fort Bend, Victoria, Refugio, Goliad, and San Patricio, one each ; total, 67 representatives. The whole number of senators shall, at the next ses- sion after the several periods of making the enumera- tion, be fixed by the Legislature, and apportioned among the several districts to be established by law, according to the number of qualified electors, and shall never be less than 19, nor more than 33. Until the first enume- ration as provided by law, the senatorial districts shall be as follows, each district electing one senator : Diet. Counties. 1. Fannin, Lamar. 2. Reti River, Bowie. 8. Harrison. 4. Nacoedoches, Rusk, Houston. 5. iSaii AutiUiiiine, iShelby. 6. Sabine, Jasper. 7. Ijiberiy, Jefter.*»on. 8. Rdbertmin, Brazos. 9. Montgomery. 10. Harrid. Diat. Counties. 11. Galveston. U. Brazoria, Mafai^orda. 13. Austin, Fort Bend. 14. Colorado, Fayette. 15. Bastrop, Travis. 16. Washington, Milam. 17. Victoria, Gonzales, Jackson. 18. Bexar. 19. Goliad, Refugio, San Patricio. ^ In addition to the above, the counties of Fannin, La- mar, Red River, and Bowie, conjointly, shall elect one senator ; making 20 senators in all. 1 On the annexation of Texas, the President of the 1 United States directed an army of about 3000 men, un- 1 der the command of General Taylor, U. S. A., to take a i position at Corpus Christi, the nearest town in Texas to < the southern boundary, for the purpose of repelling a I threatened invasion of that part of the United States by i the Mexicans. t The army moved from Corpus Christi, March 11th, 1846, and on the 28th of the same month, arrived on the V left bank of the Rio Grande, opposite to Matamoras, y where it encamped in a commanding position, which was afterwards strengthened by the addition of strong field- I STATE OF TEXAS. 15 istine, ^eston, and % Bra- 1, Fort |io, one xt ses- mera- among ording lever be ename- ls shall a. , Jackson, n Patricio. \ f nin, La- | jlect one '\ t of the ^ men, un- 1 to take a | Texas to )ellmg a States by rch nth, id on the ta moras, hicli was )ng field- works. A depo^ was also established at Point Isabel, near the Barra, or Brazos Santiago, 30 miles in the rear of the encampment. The Mexican forces, on tlie opposite side of the river, assumed a belligerent attitude, and on the 12th of April, General Ampudia, then in command, notified General Taylor to break up his camp within 24 hours, and to retire beyond the Nueces river, and in the event of his failure to comply with these demands, announced H.^i arms, and arms alone, must decide the question. But no open act of hostility was committed until the 24th of April. On that day, General Arista, who had succeeded to the command of the Mexican forces, communicated to General Taylor that "he considered hostilities com- menced, and should prosecute them." A party of dra- goons of 63 men and officers, under the command of Captain Thornton, were, on the same day, despatched from the American camp to ascertain whether the Mex- ican troops had crossed, or were preparing to cross the river, " became engaged with a large body of those troops, and after a short struggle, in which 16 were killed and wounded, including the commander, the re- mainder were surrounded and made prisoners." The intelUgence of this event, together with those of the previous murder of Colonel Cross and the death of Lieu- tenant Porter, excited the most intense interest in all parts of the Union. Active measures were immediately taken to reinforce the army on the Rio Grande, and acts were promptly passed by both houses of Congress, appropri- ating $10,000,000 to carry on the war, authorizing the ''^vernment to accept of the services of 50,000 volun- teers, to increase the ranks of the regular army, to equip for sea all the available naval force, and directing the President to issue his proclamation, declaring a state of war to exist between the United States and Mexico, which was accordingly proclaimed. May 13th, 1846. With the exception of Galveston and Houston, the towns of Texas are, for the most part, mere villagep. Austin, Houston, Galveston, San Augustine, and Mata- > 1 5 1 S .1 .^—XK 10 DESCKIPTION OF THK f 1 , 1:1 i ■■ ' |!! : f •' '■ 1 n i 1 Mi 1 ( . i 1 ; I. W a: gorda arc cities incorporated on the plan of those in the United States. Austin, the capital of the State, is in Travis coun- ty, on the left bank of the Colorado River, upwards of 200 miles from its mouth, and 1681 miles from Washington City. It contains the late Capitol, and President's House, with two churches, and from '280 to 300 dwellings: population, from 1000 to 1500. Galveston, the capital of Galveston county, is the chief sea-port, and largest town in Texas ; it is situated on tin* east end of Galveston Island, fronting the bay of that name ; 255 miles from Austin, 400 miles from New Or- leans, and 1609 miles from Washington. This city was laid out in 1837, and has from 5000 to 7000 inhabitants ; it has considerable commerce, and constant intercourse with New Orleans, New York, and other ports. The harbour is good, and the entrance to it has 12 feet water on it at low tide. Houston, the second town in Texas, in point of importance, is at the head of permanent navigation on the Buffalo Bayou, a small but deep stream, which flows into Galveston Bay ; it is the capital of Harris county. It was settled in the year 1S36, and was for a short time tlic seat of government. Houston bids fair to become a considerable town ; in 1845 from 12,000 to 15,000 bales of cotton were shipped from it : population, 4000 to 5000. It is 80 miles from Galves- ton, 175 from Austin, and 1529 from Washington. San Augustine, the capital of San Augustine county, is situated on the Ayish Bayou, a small stream which flows into the Angelina, a tributary of the Nechcs River, 312 miles from Austin, and 1369 from Wash- ington ; it is one of the finest towns in Texas, being in tlie midst of a fertile and healthy cou %ry. Here is the University of San Augustine, and the Wesleyan College of Texas : population, 1500. San Antonio, or San Antonio de Bexar, the capital of Bexar county, is 115 miles S. W. from Austin, and 1796 from Washington; if is one of the oldest STATE OF TEXAS. 17 \ in the coun- pwards from ol, and om 2b0 ). le chief 1 on tlie of that !^ew Or- city was ibitants ; ercourse ts. The 5 12 feet point of avigation » stream, ;apital of 1836, and Houston 845 from I from it: n GalvcB- Jton. le county, am which le Ncchcs >m Wash- J, being in lere is the an College the capital m Austin, the oldest towns in Texas, and was for a long time a Spa^ nish, and afterwards a Mexican military post. The fort or Alamo, has been called the Thermopylae of Texas, in commemoration of its gallant defence by Colonel Travis and his brave companions, in 1836, against the Mexi- cans : it is now in ruins. The town once contained 6000 or 8000 inhabitants, but at present the population is es- timated at 1800. The houses are mostly of one story, built of stone, and with terraced roofs. The most important of the other towns are Nacog- doches and San Felipe, or San Felipe de Austin, withi 1000 inhabitants each. Washington, with 600, Brazoria, Matagorda, and Vclasco, with 500 each, and Bastrop, with 400. Santa Fe, the chief town of New Mexico, is within the bounds assumed by the late Congress of Texas, but the latter never acquired possession of that part of the country, and it is still under the government of Mexico. It has from 5000 to 6000 inhabitants, and is the chief emporium of the overland trade that has been carried on from the State of Missouri since the year 1822. There the American and Mexican traders traffic the manufactures and imported goods, brought by the former, for the peltries and bullion of Mexico, and a considerable amount of specie reaches the United States by this route. The annual value of the overland commerce has been estimated when at its height, from 1834 to 1841, at two millions of dollars; since the last named period, the trade was suspended for .^ time by the Mexican author- ities, but it is now reviving. In the year 1845, there left Independence for Santa Fe, 141 waggons, 21 car- riages, 1078 oxen, 716 mules, 39 horses, and 203 men, employed &s drivers, &c. The cost of the goods thus transported, in the States, according to the invoices, was $342,530; cost of outfit, waggons, teams, &c., 887,790; duties, $107,757 ; cost of freight from Independence to Santa F^, 10 cents per pound, bein^ the usual rate of carriag^e. 1 S a s e d i. I, g ;£ 1 If ( !< .1 •I I 18 DESCRIPTION OF THE h 9' ill I i f J 1 In the early state of the Santa Fe trade, pack- horses and mules were employed in the transportation of goods, but waggons are now used ; the traders com- monly form caravans of sometimes a hundred waggons in company. From Independence to Santa Fe the di- rection is W. by S., nearly : the distance is about 780 miles, and many dangers and privations are encountered. Part of the route is through a country much infested by hostile Indians, who sometimes attack the traders, when the latter defend themselves with their rifles. The United States government has, on several occa- lions, sent escorts of troops for the protection of the ca- ravans. Indians attacking the Santa Fc Traders. Corpus Christi, a new town on Nueces Bay, and be- low the mouth of Nueces River, was for some time oc- cupied by the American army under the command of General Taylor, previous to its advance to the Rio Grande. i Point Isabel, a small village on the coast, 110 miles flouth of Corpus Christi, was inhabited by Mexicans. I On the laic approach of General Taylor's army, they .1 i ! STATE OF TKXAS. 11) lack- Ltion 50 ni- igons |e di- 780 tered. iested iders, Irifles. occa- he ca- and bc- ime oc- land of the Rio LO miles exicans. ay, they evacuated the place, burning the cuatom-housc and some other buildings. It is on a higli bluff, which projects a short distance into the sea, and is opposite the Barra, or Brazos Santiago, an opening from the Gulf of Mexico into the lagoon, into whicli the point projects. About 30 miles nearly south of Point Isabel, and on the Mexican or right bank of the Rio Grande, 20 miles from its mouth, is Matamoras, tlie most important town in this quarter. Seen from the American side, it has the appearance of being an American town. The streets intersect each other at right angles, and are lined with various kinds of shade-trees. Some of the build. ings are of brick, in the modern style. The Cathedral, market, and houses occupied by the military, are among the finest in the place. The dwellings of the lower classes are constructed of canes, brush-wood, &c., and are essen. tially Mexican. There are several forts armed with gunt of different calibre, and a garrison usually of 500 or 60( men. The population is from 5000 to 7000; it was onc< more considerable, but has declined in consequence of the internal commotions of the country. Matamoras i: about 2050 miles south-west by west from Washingtoi city, and nearly 600 almost due north from the city o\ Mexico. It may not be improper here to add, that the town o: Matamoras was recently much injured by a cannonad from the American batteries on the opposite side of th Rio Grande, consequent upon the commencement o hostilities between the two republics of the Unite States and Mexico. JO DESCRIPTION OF TEXA55. TRAVELLING ROUTES IN TEXAS. 11 \i\ JSustin to Sahinc Town. Frum AuMtin ) Uamrop JBrHZiiM Rivnr- - - - Nuvasulrt Kiver - - Uoi)()iir8 Ferry, on the 'J'rmiiy Crockt't Macu(fdncho8 - - - San AuKUstino - - - ISIilam Bubine Town - - - 33 78 'di 48 W5 62 35 15 15 109 142 190 •215 277 312 327 342 Jlustin to the Rio Grande. From Austin I Hiig'rop 33 R. San MarcoH - - - 45 i! (Jiindalupe - - - 20 San Antonio - - - 50 R. t^aii Miguel - - - 42 Kio Fiio \\o K. jN uecos - - - - C2 Rio GranJc • - - - 50 x^iistin to Galveston From Austin Busirop - - - - La (Jrantie - - - Rutersviile - - - San t'clipe do Au!>tin Houston - - - Galveston - - - 33 40 6 42 00 bO Austin to Matafforda. rrom Austin Bastrop 33 Lat;range ----- 40 Coiutnbus ----- 35 Kgypt 30 Precton ----- 20 Matagorda - - - - 40 Austin to Brazoria. *rom Austin Han F«lipe de Austin, at before - - - - 78 98 148 IHO 220 282 332 73 78 120 1/5 235 73 108 ].id 158 198 120 Richmond - - - . 40 160 Unluinbia 40 200 Brazuria 11 211 .Austin to If a skill ff ton . Ts • Fiuin AudUii to Buiiirop • - - - 33 40 73 ijHKran{;0 - •* " RuierHViile- - . _ _ 6 78 Industry - - . - - 20 W Independence - - - 2y 12/ Wusnuigiun - - - - 11 138 Austin to jMataworas. From Austin to Kastrop 33 Gonziiies 55 Goliud 60 iSan Patricio - - - 75 Maiamuras - ■ • - 145 88 118 223 3t)d Austin to Corpus Omsti. From Austin to Bastrop 33 Gonzales 65 88 Goliad 60 148 Corpus Christ! - - - 45 193 J^Tacogdoches to Natchitoches, /.a. From Nacogdoches to Sun Augustine - - Milr^m - - - - - Sabine Town - - Fort Jesup. La. - - Natchitoches - - 35 15 15 29 25 50 65 94 119 Nacogdoches to Fulton, Ark. From Nacogdoches to Ht-nderson - - - - 32 Dantrerfield - - - - 80 112 Boston 81 ^12 Fallen 45 188 OREGON AND CALIFORNIA. 1: The map of Oregon and California reprcisenls that part of the west coast of North America which extends from north latitude 32° to 54° 40', and from the Pacific Ocean to the Rocky Mountains. It includes an extent of country one-fourth the size of Europe, beings 15()0 miles in length, with a breadth varying from 350 to 800 miles, and an area of about 825,000 square miles, or 528,000,000 acres. Oregon forms the southern part of the " North-west Coast," a term used in tiie United States to designate that portion of country lying along the shores of the Pacific Ocean, from Cape Mendocino, in north latitude 40°, to Cape Prince of Wales, in latitude about 65*^. The northern section of California, reaching from the sea 800 miles eastward to the Rocky Mountains, and two degrees of latitude in width south of Oregon, being about a fourth part of the territory which is included within the bounds of the "North-west Coast." The term in question was derived from the circumstance of the part of the country to which it is applied lying in a direction north-west from the settled districts of the United States. The coast of California, as well as most part of the coast of Oregon, differs essentially from that on the Atlantic in the same latitudes. The Atlantic coast is low and open, indented with numerous bays, sounds, and river estu- aries, accessible everywhere, and opening by many channels into the interior. The Pacific coast, as far north as Cape Flattery, is high and compact, with few bays, and but one (the Columbia river) that opens a pas- sage of any importance into the heart of the country. The immediate coast is bold and abrupt, being of the cha< racter that seamen call iron-bound ; some distance in- land it is skirted by ranges of mountains, standing as. ramparts between it and the interior country. From about^ latitude 34° to 3S° hardly an island is to be met with, and (21) li 522 DKSCKIPTION OF 'J m the harbours arc few and ineflicient, except in the case of the Bay of San Francisco ; but from Cape Flattery, the southern boundary of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the coast assumes, in going nortiiward, a different aspect: the continent, as well as tlie larger islands, though the , shores are still elevated, is indented with innumerable t gulfs, bays, sounds, harbours, &c. Various narrow passages^ or canals, as tiiey are chiefly called, run up into the interior, forming numerous islands, and con- taining many fine harbours, that are destined doubtless at some future period to teem with a busy population. Within the Strait of Juan de Fuca and tiic Gulf of Georgia the rise and fall of the tides is about eighteen feet, and the depth of water is in most cases sufficient for large-sized merchantmen. South of Cape Flattery , the harbours at the moutlis of rivers are generally ob- structed by sand-bars, and even the mouth of the Coluin- ' bia is impracticable for a considerable part of the year, during which time it is equally dangerous to leave it. '. In the year 1841, the U. S. sloop-of-war Peacock, be- longing to the exploring expedition, was wrecked at the mouth of the Columbia, and several merchantmen have p also been lost near the same spot. { Oregon and California are bounded on the east by the I Rocky Mountains, which extend, under different names, J I'rom the Arctic Ocean to the Isthmus of Darien, where i they connect with the Andes of South America. South- ward of latitude 40° north, they are called the Anahuac Mountains, and farther south the Sierra de los Mimbres, •^j the Sierra Madre, and the Mexican Cordilleras; the 1 whole ransre extends in a direction from north-west to J south-east, and at different distances from the coast. In J latitude 40° it is about 750 miles from the Pacific, while in 54° 40' it is not more than half that distance. ' ' Between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean •„ both Oregon and California are traversed by two, and ?a in some parts three, lof\y ridges, which divide the coun- * try into distinct belts or regions. The most elevated portion of the Rocky Mountain chain is about the 52d degree of north latitude. Mount Brown and Mount i ■■ OREGON AND CALIFOUMA. 23 ; •^ '■ Hooktr, iU most lolly peaks, arc respectively 16,000 uiid 15,700 feet high ; further southward the highest summit is Fremont's Peak, which is elevated 13,570 feet above the level of the Gulf of Mexico. This lofty peak is called aflcr the enterprising ollicer whose narno it bears, and who ascended to its summit August 15tli 1842, and determined its height and character. On its western declivity the Green River, the head stream of tlic (>olorado, and on tiie opposite side the liig Horn Kiver, a tributary of the Yellow Stone, take their rise. In these mountains many of the great rivers of North America have their sources, and flow hence to all points of the compass. Within a short distance of the South Pass there rise, on the eastern side, the Missouri, the Yellow Stone, the Platte, and the Arkansas, tho waters of all of which are carried through the Missis, sippi into the Mexican Gulf, and the Rio Grande del Norte or Rio Bravo, which flows into the same arm of the Altantic ; while, on the western side, are found the fc'ources of the Colorado, the Snake or Lewis, the Flat- head or Clarke's, and the main Columbia. Farther north rise the Saskatchawan, whose waters flow through Lake Winnipeg into Hudson's Bay, and the Athabasca and Peace Rivers, head tributaries of the Mackenzie, whicli winds its course to the Arctic Ocean. The wild goat and sheep of the Rocky Mountains were long sup- posed to be pecu- liar to that range, and derived their names from that circumstance; but they are now known to abound also in the Sierra Nevada ofCalifor- ^> nia, as well as in the cascade range of Oregon. The first is as large 1 24 DESCRIPTION OF m m ' Uie domestic sheep, its fleece hanging down on the sides like that of the Merino breed. The hair is long and straight, coarser than that of the wsheep, but finer than that of the common goat. Both these ani- mals inhabit the most lofty peaks of the mountains, their range extending, it is said, from Lat. 40° to 65°. The Rocky Mountain, or big-horn sheep, is larger than any do- mestic sheep : the Rocky Mountain Sheep. ^oms of the ram are immense. 1 he hair is like that of the reindeer ; at first short, fine, and flexi- ble ; bat as winter advances, it becomes coarse, dry, and brittle ; though it feels soft, it is then so close as to be- come erect. These animals collect in flocks of fron^ three to thirty, the young rams and the females herding together, while the old rams form separate flocks. The horns of old rams attain a size so enormous that they effectually prevent the animal from fetd'mg upon level ground. The flesh is said to be superior to any do- mestic mutton. In the Rocky Mountains there are several passages or gaps, through which travellers journey from one side of the continent to the other j that used l>y the traders of the Hudson^s Bay Company is a tremendous cleft, overliung by the loftiest peaks of the great chain; it passes between Mount Brown and Mount Hooker, both of wliich rise far above the inferior limit of perpetual snow, and pre- sent a grand and imposing spectacle. Fartiier to the southward, in latitudes 46° 30' and 44° 30', are the gaps through which Lewis and Clarke travelled, in their jour- , ney to and from the opposite sides of the American con- : tinent. Still farther south, is the "South Pass," the most remarkable in the Rocky Mountains, and one of the i \i 3 OREGON AND CALIFOUMA* 26 most noted passes through a mountain chain in the world. It was discovered some years ago, and was ex* plored and described by Captain Fremont, U. S. A., in the year 1842. The South Pass is at the head of the Sweetwater, a tributary of the Platte or Nebraska river, and at the base of the Wind River chain of the Rocky Mountains, in north latitude 42° 25', longitude 3'2^ 10', west of Washington City, or 109° 10' west of Green- wich. The Pass is from 15 to 20 miles wide, and so gradual in its ascent, from the plains east and west of it, that it is not very easy to determine precisely its cul- minating point, and wagons or travelling vehicles of any kind may pass through with as much ease as along a level and beaten road. The chief river of the North-West Territory, is the Columbia or Oregon. It is the largest American stream which flows into the Pacific Ocean. Its main source iiR in the Rocky Mountains, about latitude 50 degrees north, whence it takes a course, at first north-west and then south, for a distance of 875 miles to its junction with the Lewis or Snake river, which joins it from the south-east, a few miles above Wallawalla; from hence to the ocean, the direction of the united stream is nearly west, and the distance 350 miles. The chief tribu- taries of the northern or main branch, are the Flat Bow or Kootanie^ and Clarke's or M'Giilivray's, and Okona- gan rivers. Lewis, Snake, or Saptin river, is the great southern branch of the Columbia; from its source in the Rocky Mountains, nortli of Fremont's Peak, it has a course of about 780 miles ; its rapids and falls greatly obstruct canoe navigation. The Kooskooskee, Salmon, and other rivers, both from the east and west, flow into it. At its confluence with the main stream, the Lewis river is 600 yards wide : at the same point the Columbia has a breadth of 1000 yards : in the latter, both above and below the junction, there arc many obstructions ; about 180 miles lower down are th-^ Dalles, where there is a succession of rapids and falls in the river for several 3 20 DEbURlPTlON OF 11 il i if , III'' miles ; 40 miles below, and 130 miles from the sea, are the Cascades, where the river breads through the Cas- cade range ; its channel is here compressed into a nar- row go.o^e, only 150 yards across, and its waters are hurried with great violence over its rocky bed ; at the foot of the Cascades it meets the tide, and thence to the sea the river is rarely less than a mile broad ; within six or seven leagues of the Pacific, it increases in width from two to four miles, and at its mouth its width is seven miles. The Columbia preserves throughout its character as a river, being rapid in its current, and perfectly fresh and potable to within a league of the ocean, except during very dry seasons and the prevalence of violent westerly winds. Ships of 300 or 400 tons can ascend nearly to the loot of the Cascades ; the navigation, espe- cially of the lower part of the river, is somewhat dan- gerous, in consequence of its numerous shoals. The Columbia and its tributaries are famous for their salmon, which comprise six different species, and are all excel- lent eating ; these fish are taken in great numbers by the Indians, as well as by the white settlers, chiefly at ihe foot of the various falls and rapids in th rivers ; they begin to ascend from the sea about the middle of April, and in the course of three or four months are found at the heads of the remotest tributaries. A short distance below the Cascades, the Willamette river enters the Columbia from the south ; it rises on the west side of the Cascade range, in about latitude 44P north, and has a course of about 200 miles. In the valley of this stream, nearly all the American emigrants are settled; and at the falls, 15 miles from its mouth, is Oregon city, an American village of 50 or 60 houses ; the country iri the vicinity, and all along the coast to the southward, presents greater advantages of soil and climate than any other part of the territory. Near the southern boundary of Oregon, are the Umpqua and Klamet rivers, but neither of them offers any facilities for commercial communication ; on the foriiicr, a few il m exl asl sol mi sa OREGON AND CALIFORNIA. 27 ■ii miles from its mouth, the Hudson's Bay Company have a trading post or fort. The only other river of any note in Oregon, is Frazer's, the Tacoutchee Tesse of Mackenzie. It fiovi^s in a direc- tion nearly south from the Rocky Mountains, into the Gulf of Georgia ; its course is about 750 miles in length, and it drains with its tributaries nearly all the country between the parallels of 49^ and 58^, and westward of the Rocky Mountains. Thompson's and Stuart's rivers are its chief branches ; on all these rivers there are various trading posts of the Hudson's Bay Company established. The Colorado, or Red River of California, so called from the colour of its waters, is the principal stream of California ; it flows from the Wind River chain a south- south- west course of ttbout 1100 miles, into the head of the Gulf of California. The country in its vicinity, for some distance from its mouth, is flat, and is overflowed curing the rainy season, when the quantity of water discharged is very great, and high embankments are thus made by the deposit of mud on each side, similar to those on the Lower Mississippi. The region through which the Colorado flows is almost unknown, being still in possession of the native tribes. Green and Grand rivers are the largest of its upper branches; both rise within the limits of the United States — the first at the base of Fremont's Peak, and the other on the western side of Long's Peak. The Gila, the largest and most southern tributary of the Colorado, is a river of 500 miles in length, and flows from that part of the Rocky Mountain range called the Sierra de los Mim- bres ; the country on its banks, both north and south, is inhabited by Indian tribes, of wliich nothing is known except their names. How far the Colorado may be ascended by vessels from the gulf, is not known : from some accounts, it seems to be navigable for 300 or 400 miles, while, according to others, obstacles to the pas- saj^e of vessels occur much nearer to the sea. The other rivers of California worthy of note, are the 28 DESCRIPTION Oi III r^fl! :.«i 'I* m Sacramento and San Joaquin, both of which flow into the Bay of San Francisco, or Bay of Sir I^rancis Drake. The Sacramento rises in Oregon Territory, near the sources of the Fall river, a branch of the Columbia. It flows nearly south, draining- the fine valley which lies between the Sierra Nevada and the coast range of moun- tains; after a course of 400 miles, it enters San Fran, cisco Bay, nearly opposite to the mouth of the San Joaquin. It is supposed to be navigable for vessels of some burthen about 200 mile^. On the Rio de loa Americanos, (or river of the .*^ mericans,) one of its branches, is Nueva Helvetia, a recently founded Ameri- can settlement. The San Joaquin llows from the south into San Francisco Bay ; it is a smaller river than the Sacramento, and drains the southern part of the same valley ; it rises also in the Sierra Nevada, and' is in ex- tent about 220 miles; during the annual overflow of the rivers in this quarter, it is connected with the Tule lakes, further south, but at other times the connecting stream is dried up, and ceases to flow. 1'he inhabitants on the banks of these rivers, except a few American settlers on the Sacramento, are mostly Indians. The Rio San Buenaventura is of less importarce than either of the foregoing ; it rises in the coast range, and flows nearly parallel with the shore of the Pacific, and at a distance of only 30 miles from it. It has a north- west course of about 130 miles, and falls into tho Bay of Monterey. The other streams along the sea coast are mere rivulets, and the general infrequency of rivers and springs is the chief defect of the country, though water may be obtained in most places by digging. The interior rivers of California are of little note, and are almost unknown. The Bear river is the chief feeder of the Great Salt lake, situated in the north-eastern part of California. It enters on the east side of the lake, and has a tortuous course of 250 or 260 miles, cliiefly among high rugged mountains. Sevier river is a recent disco- very, and was first described by Captain Fremont ; its precise course is unknown ; it flows probably into the Wa firs bre sac[ mai sma long a bo Th( and then T are wit vate ries,| rive cici OREGON AND CALIFORNIA. 29 into rake, the It lieB fioun- Fran. San els of le los of its imeri. south an the same in cx- of the 3 Tule lecting bitants lerican ce than ge, and fic, and L north- ho Bay la coast if rivers though '^- A ote, and 3f feeder ern part ake, and y among a disco- lont; its into the Colorado. Mary's river is described by emigrants to Cahfornia as flowing, for about 250 miles, along the northern edge of the Great Interior t)esert, or Basin of California ; it terminates in a small lake, or sink-hole, not far from the eastern base of ihe Sierra Nevada. The regions on the Pacific side of North America differ in climate from those east of the Rocky Mountains, in the same latitudcc^. In the countries on the west side, of corresponding parallels v^ith Wisconsin, Michigan, Canada, Nova Scotia, and Newfoundland, the ground is rarely covered with snow for more than three or four weeks in each year, and it often remains unfrozen throughout the winter. In those opposite to Virginia and Carolina, the winter is merely a wet season, no rain falling at any other time ; and in the Californian penin. sula, which is included between the same parallels as Georgia and Florida, the temperature is as high as in any tropical region, and many years pass by without a shower or even a cloud. Two of the largest islands of the north-west coast, Quudra and Vancouver s, and Queen Charlotte's, or Washington Island, lie off the coast of Oregon. The first named is 280 miles long, with 50 of averngo breadth, and is about equal in area to the states of Mas- sachusetts and Connecticut. It is separated from the main land by the Gulf of Georgia. The other is mucli smaller and is farther from the continent: it is J 80 long and about 30 in average breadth. It is probably about equal in surface to the state of Connecticut. These two islands, with those called Prince of Wales' and Sitcha Island, with the many smaller islands around them, have been termed the North West Archipelago. The coasts of the larger islands, like that of Oregon, arc indented with numerous bays and gulfs, and fringed with towering forests. The ground is wholly unculti- vated, but it yields spontaneously an abundance of ber- ries, onions, and other roots. The chief supplies are de- rived from the sea, which abounds with numerous spe- cici of excellent fish. Each tribe inhabits a particular 3* 30 DESCRIPTION OF OREGON, &C. cove or island, and is ruled by a chief who maintains some deg^rec of savage pomp. One of the earlier navi- gators found a chicff occupying- a house, consisting- of one large apartment, in which his whole household of 800 persons sat, ate and slept. The door-posts and the rafters were supported by gigantic wooden images, rudely carved and painted, and the whole apartment was studiously adorned with festoons of human skulls. The chief's family occupied a raised platform at one end, on which were placed chests, containing their most valuable effects. Their repasts consisted of enormous quantities of blubber, fish-oil, and fish-soup. Man and Woman of Quadra and Vancouver's Island. The people have the usual Indian features, with com- plexions tolerably fair; but these they studiously dis- figure by stripes of red ochre, and streams of fish-oil, mingled sometimes with a species of glittering black sand. Some of the tribes display extreme ferocity, and there is too much reason to believe that they are addicted to the horrid practice of cannibalism, human heads and hands being both displayed as trophies, and offered for sale. Yet, when a friendly intercourse was once established, their manners were found peculiarly mild, courteous, and engaging. ^ mmmmm intains r navi- ing of lold of md the mages, irtrncnt skulls. at one ;ir most vormoua si and. irvith com- ausly dis- 3f fish-oil, ing black ocity, and they are m, human phies, and jourse was peculiarly OEEGON TERMTOEY. Oregon is the name usually applied to that part of North America which is watered chiefly by the Colum- bia or Oregon river and its branches. Its political boun- daries have not as yet been fixed by agreement between the parties claiming possession of it. The government of the United States considers them as embracing tlie whole territory west of the Rocky Mountains from the latitude of 42 degrees north to that of 54 degrees 40 minutes. The British government has, however, refused to acknowledge the right of the Americans to any por- tion north of the Columbia river. This territory is bounded on the north and east as far south as the 49th degree of latitude by British America, and southward of the 49th degree on the east by Mis- souri territory, south by Mexico, and west by the Pacific Ocean. It is in length about 880 miles, with an average breadth of 550, and an area of 420,000 square miles. It is divided into three belts or sections separated by ranges of mountains running very nearly parallel with the shores of the Pacific Ocean. The first or western sec- tion lies between the sea and the Cascade or President's range. The second or middle section is between the Cascade and the Blue Mountains. The third or eastern section is between the Blue and the Rocky Mountains. These sections have a distthction of soil, climate and productions; The first or Cascade range of mountains is continuous through the whole extent of Oregon, at a distance of from 80 to 140 miles inland ; some of its peaks are from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above the level of the sea ; and two of them, viz : Mount St. Helens and Mount Rainier, are said to be volcanoes. They are all several thousand feet (31) 32 OREGON TERRITORY. iif above the line of perpetual snow. Tlie Blue Mountains, the second range, are irregular in their course, and oc- casionally interrupted by wide passes or gaps. Their distance from the coast varies trom 250 to 330 miles. Eastward are the Rocky Mountains, whicli form the eastern boundary of the territory. TJie intervening valley is rocky, broken and barren, and but little suited for cultivation. Timber is generally scarce on the south side of the Columbia, but on the nortiiern it is more plentiful. In its most elevated districts snow covers the ground all the year. It rarely rains here, and no dew falls. There is a great difference in the temperature between the days and nights, especially in the summer, when the thermometer varies from 30 to 50 degrees in the course of a few hours. In the whole of this section subsistence is difficult, and the Indians sometimes die of hunger. Tiie country westward of the Blue Mountains consists for the most part of a light sandy loam ; in the valleys a rich alluvion, and barren on the hills. It is well adapted for cattle and horses, as grass, either green or dry, may be always found. Wood is also scarce in this section, except at some distance north of the Columbia river. In the coast district westward of the Cascade range, (he soil and climate are well suited for American emigrants. The valley of the Willamette is the finest part of Oregon, and is said to improve on going south towards California. Its wheat is superior, and all the other grains raised in the United States grow well, except corn, the growth of which is somewhat uncertain. Potatoes and all kinds of culinary vegetables flourish. It is also well wooded. Pine, fir, oak of different kinds, ash, maple, poplar, &c., are abundant. One of the most remarkable trees of this region is a species of pine, the most noble of its genus, and proba- bly the finest specimen of American vegetation. It reaches the amazing height of from 250 to 300 feet, with a trunk 25 to 50 feet in circumference. Its cones are from 12 to 18 inches long, and 10 inches in circumfer- OKKGON TKURITORV 83 encc in the tliickest part. This gigantic timber renders the land on wfiich it grows ditficiilt to clear. The climate liere is mild throughout the year, nei- ther presenting tlic severe cold of winter nor heat of summer. The mean temperature of the Willamette valley is about 54° of Fahrenheit. The winter lasts from December until February. The rains begin to fall in November and continue till March. Snow also falls, but seldom lies longer than a few days. The nights are cool, and affect Indian-corn so far that it will not ripen. Fruit trees blossom early in April at Vancouver and Nisqually, at which latter place peas were a foot high early In May, strawberries were in full blossom, and salad had gone to seed. . In Oregon, as well as in all the other regions over which the Hudson's Bay Company extend their opera- tions, wild animals are becoming scarce. The buffalo was once found on the upper waters of the Columbia, but it is now extinct in that quarter. The sea otter, so valuable for its fur, was found not long since on the Columbia river, but now it is said that none are to be seen. Bears of three differ- ent varieties are found in Oregon, viz : the grizzly, brown and black. The first is a most formida- ble animal ; its strength and ferocity are such that the hunters use the utmost precaution in at- tacking it. When adult it is reported to attain sometimes a weight of IMdck Bear. 800 pounds, and its strength is in proportion. The cubs of the grizzly bear can climb trees, but when full-grown cannot do so. The hunter may thus escape, but the in- furiated animal will sometimes keep watch below and confine its enemy for many hours. The black and 34 OREGON TERRITORY. brown bear arc not so ferocious ; they are nearly of the same size, but are only about half the weight of the grizzly bear; they arc nearly similar in habits; the former lives more upon vegetable food, and is much esteemed by the hunters for its pure, black, well-coated skin. Elk, The elk is sometimes met in Oregon, but is not so plentiful as on the cast side of the Rocky Mountains. Peer of three different species abound, the red, the black- tailed, and the common American kind. The deer west of the Rocky Mountains are more lean, and the flesh is less inviting, than those on the other side. The prong- horned antelope is peculiar to Oregon, and is found on the plains of the Columbia. It frequents open prairies and low hills interspersed with clumps of wood ; but it is not met with in any of the thickly wooded districts. Tht horns from which the animal derives its name are singular. They have an anterior branch and a prolonged posterior point turned down into a hook. These animals are exceedingly swift, and live in small families. The Big Horn or Rocky Mountain sheep and Rocky Mountain goat, are animals peculiar to the western continent. They are found chiefly among the loHy i tuountains, from which they derive their name, and se- OREGON TKKIirrORY. 35 ' lect the most rugged and precipitous spots where grass can be had. The habitat of these animals amon^r the Rocky Mountains is believed to range from latitude 40'^ northward for nearly 1800 miles, and reaching from California nearly to the Arctic Ocean. The flesh of both these animals is highly prized by the hunters as food. The Big Horn is also found in the Sierra Nevada of California and in the Cascade range of Ore- gon. Some of the other animals found in Oregon are the panther, the tiger-cat and the lynx. The panther is but rarely seen west of the Rocky Mountains. It is equally ferocious and similar in its habits with the same species found in other parts of America. There are also wolves of five and foxes of three different kinds, besides the beaver, the raccoon, martin, marmot, &c. ■tV;'vW €ft^^-^ White Traders and In The Oregon Indians savage than those on Mountains. They are friendly relations with not averse to the habits pie. The tribes found Chickalees, Kilamukcp, dians bartering with each other. are said to be less warlike and the eastern side of the Rocky disposed generally to cultivate the American settlers, and are and pursuits of a civilized peo- along the coast are the Clalams, Chinnooks, Cowlitzes, Umpquas, 8(5 OULtJON TLKKITOIIV. and some otlicrs. Kxccj)t a ffvv individuals living in the vicinity of the American settlements and the JJrilish posts, who iiave begun to cultivate the ground to a small extent and to raise cattle, tliosc tri[)es derive their sub- sistence chiuHy from hunting and li.-^hing; the latter they practise with son\e dexterity ; their boats are form- ed out of a single tree, and are from 1'2 to .'K) feet in length. Their wealth is estimated by tlie number of their wives, slaves and canoes. The skins and furs which they collect are exchanged with the traders for guns, copper kettles, knives, tobacco, and other articles, besides blue and wliite beads. These tribes, however rude, studiously seek to embel- lish their persons, but in a most fantastic and preposter- ous maimer, by keeping the forehead compressed in infancy with boards and bandages, whicli cauocs a straight line to run from the crown of the iiead to the top of the nose. With this form, and with a thick coat- ing of grease, a young female becomes one of the most I hideous objects in existence. Yet when adorned with i\ bear's claws, copper bracelets, and white and blue beads, ] she is regarded as an object of especial attraction. East of the Cascade range arc the Wallawallas, Nez- perces, Flatheads, Cayuses, Kootanies, &c. These all resemble each other closely in language, customs and character, and are but remotely connected with the lower tribes. Their chief employment is taking salmon . and hunting. The latter is, however, a limited resource, 1 buffalo being no longer found on the plains of the Co- J lumbia. They have horses in abundance, and are good i riders, both men and women. The name of Flatheads ' has been given to all the upper tribes, but the custom llrom which it is derived is practised far more exten- Jsively among those on the coast. Immediately after '"fl birth a bandage is fixed to the head of the infant, where it is kept about a year, and has the effect to flatten the J^head permanently. This practice is universal among jpthe lower tribes, but above the falls is restricted to the ' emales, and even with the latter is now much less com- non than formerly. i ORE(JON TERRITORY. 37 . Tlie ^reat soutlicrn ])l;iin is inliabiUd by tlio Shosho- iiees or Snakes, J3oonucks, Alc, wlio arc entirely difFor- cnt from the other tribes west of the Rocky Mountaing, and appear to liave emigrated from the valley of the Mississippi. The Siiosiionees, when destitute of salmon or other fisli, subsist on the various roots which they obtain by digging", and are hence called Diggers, 'I'he Indians, both of Upper and Lower Oregon, have greatly decreased in numbers since Lewis and Clarke's time, and some tribes have become entirely extinct. In the year 1829, whole villages were depopulated by the fever and ague, which appears to have been much more fatal than among the whites, and was rendered still more so by the un- skilful manner in which the Indians treated the dis- ease. Missionary preaching to the Indians. Among the Indians of this region missionaries of various Christian sects have long been labouring with assiduity, though it is believed as yet with but doubtful success. The Roman Catholics have made the greatest number of converts, if the reception of baptism be as- sumed as the test of conversion, whole tribes submitting at once on the first summons to the rite. The Metliodists 4 38 OREGON TERKITORY. W I: IS u and Presbyterians employ themselves chiefly in impart- ing a knowledge of the simplest and most useful arts, and have thus induced some of tiie natives to engage in agricultural pursuits. The last mentioned missionaries also endeavour to convey religious instruction to them through the medium of their own languages, into which books have been translated and printed in the country. The civilized inhabitants of Oregon consist of citizens of the United States and the servants of the H«idson*s Bay Company. The latter body enjoys by special grant from the British government the use of all the territories claimed by Great Britain west of the Rocky Mountains, as well as the protection of British laws in virtue of an act of Parliament; whilst the citizens of the United States, though now outnumbering the others in the pro- portion of eight or ten to one, remain independent of all extended authority and jurisdiction whatever. They are not subject to British laws, and are under no control, except the temporary regulations into which they have cntercu for the sake of local order. The inhabitants of the territory, a country twice the extent of France, do not probably exceed 50,000 in num- ber, of whi h 40,000 may be Indians, 8,000 or 10,000 Americans, and 1,000 or 1,200 servants of the Hudson*s Bay Company. The American is the only part of the population that is gaining ground, eve-y succeeding year adding to its numbers. Any increase of the Com- pany's people is not likely to take place, as their busi- ness is about stationary, and has been so for some years past. The Indians, as in all other parts of America, are annually becoming smaller and smaller in number. The American citizens in Oregon some time since organii^ed a provisional government and legislature, established a court, appointed judges and magistrates, and have pass- ed various salutary enactments. Among the latter is one prohibiting the manufacturing, importing or sciiing spirituous liquors of any kind, and providing for the seizure and destruction of distillery apparatus, 6lc. By another act it is provided that negro slavery shall not OREGON TERRITORY. 39 be permitted to exist in Oregon, and that the owners of slaves who may bringr them into the country shall be allowed two years to remove them, and in default the slaves to be free. The act also prohibits free negroes or mulattoes from settling or remaining in the courtry, and requires them to leave it in two years. The principal American settlement is Oregon City. It is on the Willamette or Multnomah river, at the head of navigation ; and at the foot of the falls, one of the finest water-powers in the world. It contains from 200 to 300 inhabitants, several stores, machine shops, saw and grist-mills, schools, &c. It is situated about 20 miles south of Fort Vancouver, 30 miles from the Co- lumbia river by the Willamette, and over 100 from Astoria, near the mouth of the Columbia. From the nearest part of the coast it is distant in a direct line about 65 miles. The American emigrants are nearly all settled in the vicinity, and in the valley of the Wil- lamette. The establishments of the Hudson's Bay Company are called forts, but they are more properly trading, houses, and are all fortified sufficiently to repel a sudden attack. With the exception of Fort Vancouver they are mostly small establishments, containing sometimes only half a dozen individuals. They are the depositaries of the goods used in the Indian trade, and of the furs and peltries obtained in barter from the natives. Vancouver, the largest of these forts, is on the north bank of the Columbia river, 120 miles from its mouth ; it is a square picketed enclosure, conta* .ing the rcaidences of the factors, clerks, &c., of the establishment, besides various stores and work-shops. Near the fort are the hospital and the dwellings of the people attached to it. In the vicinity are an orchard, garden, and a farm of 600 acres. Two miles lower down the river are the dairy and piggeries, witli numerous herds oi' cattle and hogb. Three miles above the fort are the water-mills for grind- :ng grain and sawing lumber. The people attached to the establishment number about 700 ; one-half are In- 10 OREGON TliRRITOKY. dians ; the remainder consists of British, Canadians,, and lialf-brecds. From Vancouver a direct trade is carried on with Great Britain and also with tlie Sandwich Islands, which employs several vessels. A small steam- boat plies on the Columbia river and along the coast between the different trading posts. The exports to Britain are furs and peltries, and to the Sandwich Islands wheat, lumber, salmon, &,c. Nearly ail the Hudson's Bay Company's establish- ments are on the Columbia and Frazer's Rivers and their tributaries ; three are on the sea coast, and one is on the Umpqua, a few miles above its moath. Fort George, near the mouth of the Columbia, stands on the site of Astoria, but it is now a place of no moment or account. The coast of Oregon was first explored by the Spa^ niards, who, however, did not penetrate into the interior. In 1792, captain Gray of Boston discovered and entered the Columbia, and named it after his ship. He was the first who established the fact of the existence of this great river ; and this gives to the United States the title to the regions drained by its waters, from right of dis- covery. In 1803-4-5, Messrs. Lewis and Clarke were sent out by the United States' government for the pur- pose of exploring this country. They navigated the Missouri river to its source, and, crossing the Rocky Mountains, descended the Columbia to the Pacific Ocean. They spent the winter on its shores. In the following spring, they returned by the same river to the moun- tains, and thence, down the Missouri, home. This explo- ration of the chief river, the first ever made, constitutes another ground of claim of the American people to Oregon. They have also strong claims by the Louisiana treaty of 1803 with France, and by the treaty of 1819, by which Spain relinquished all her rights on the Pacific north of lat. 42°, and w^hich is considered to have ex- tended as far north as lat. 60°. In the year 1824, by a convention with Russia, it was agreed that the United States should make no establishments on the consta OREGON TERRITORY. 41 1 north of iat. 5i^ 40", and that the Russians should make none south of the same line. This constitutes the right by which the American government claims that particular boundary. To the territory of Oregon, therefore, the United States have acquired a very strong title by the discovery of the principal river, and by Interior exploration, as well as by treaties with foreign powers. It is, however, contested by Great Britain, who claims, not that the title is in her, but that the region is unappropriated and open to the first comer. She also contends that Mr. Macken- zie, a British subject in 1793, was the first white man who explored any portion of Oregon by land ; that Heceta, a Spanish navigator, and not captain Gray, discovered the Columbia river ; that the exploration and surveys of Cook and Vancouver give a better title to those parts of the North ^V est Coast in question than the claim founded on Gray's discovery of the Columbia ; that Spain, in 1790, relinquished part of her rights on the N. VV. coast to her ; tiiat Louisiana, as claimed by France, extended no further westward than the Rocky Mountains; and tiiat the arrangement with Russia in 1824 was neutralized by a convention in 1825, in which the same parallel of latitude (54*^ 40') was agreed on as the boundary of the Russian and British possessions in that quarter. By a, convention concluded in 1818, to last twelve yJ^5r ;. it was agreed between the United States and i^-eil Britain, that neither government should take pos:;:v .-.jon of it, or occupy it, to the exclusion of the other, viuring the period of the conveiijon, which either party might renounce upon giving twelve months' no- tice. This convention was renewed indefinitely in 1827, or to cease at tlie option of tlie contracting parties. In Apiil, 1846, a joint resolution passed the Congress of the United States in the w^ords following, viz: Re- loived, that the President of the United States be, and n is hereby, authorized at his discretion to give to the British government the notice required by its second 4» 42 OREGON TKRRITORY. article for the abrogation of the said convention of the 6thof August, 1827. Although the United States have this strong claim to the whole region of Oregon, from N. lat. 42^ to 54'^ 40', yet the government has several times proposed, from motives of accommodation, to adopt the forty -ninth parallel of latitude as the dividing line, with the free navigation of the Columbia river to the people of both nations, with the exception that in the last proposition (that was made by President Polk), the use of the Co- lumbia river south of the parallel of 49° to British sub- jects, is rescinded, and in lieu thereof, it is agreed that Great Britain shall h. o any port or ports on the coast of Quadra and Vancouv dand, south of lat. 49^, she may choose. By this ari gement, the United States would relinquish a territory of about 160,000 square miles, being nearly equal in extent to the whole of the New England and Middle States united. Tlie British have, however, constantly refused to assent to any ar- rangement which should deprive them of the coast and territories north of the Columbia river. They propose in return the adoption of the 49th parallel of latitude west- ward from the Rocky Mountains, to the nearest waters of the Columbia (M'Gillivray*s river) : thence down stream to the ocean, the navigation to be free to the people of both nations. In addition, they offer to cede a small district, nearly equal in extent to the State of Connecticut, bounded by the Pacific, the straits of San Juan de Fuca, Hood^s canal and Bulfinch^s or Gray^s harbour, having Cape Flattery for its north-westernmost point. This scheme would divide Oregon into two very nearly equal districts ; each power would receive about 210,000 square miles of territory. Several attempts were made, by different individuals from the United States, to settle in this territory. In 1808, the Missouri Fur Company established a trading- house on Lewises river, the first ever formed on any of the waters of the Columbia. In 1810, the Pacific Fur Company, under John J. Astor, of New York, was form- C(] of til to Ol at i\ t C y b OREGON TERRITORY. 42 he Lh ed ; and in 1811, Astoria was established at the mouth of Colunibia river. In consequence of the exposure of this post, by the last war with Great Britain, it was sold to the Hudson Bay Company ; but was restored to its original proprietors, by order of the British government, at the close of the war, agreeably to the first articles of the treaty of Ghent. The first emigration from the settled portions of the United States for the purpose of occupying any part of Oregon territory was made in the year 1832. For some years afterwards the number of emigrants was limited ; but a better acquaintance with the route and the proper mode of travelling has greatly increased the desire to settle on the shores of the Pacific. In 1843, not less than 1000 individuals emigrated to Oregon. In the following year the number was still greater; and in 1845, there passed Fort Laramie for the Willamette 850 men, 475 women, and 1000 children, driving with them about 7000 head of cattle, 400 horses and mules, and 460 wagons. All the travelling which has yet taken place between Oregon, California and the United States, has been by land. None of the rivers which flow from the Rocky Mountains eastward across the prairies present any favourable facilities for navigation ; and the same may be said of the Columbia river and its branches, except on the lower part of its course from Wallawalla down- wards. Emigrants with families generally leave West- ern Missouri early in April. They should be provided with strong well-made light wagons, with young ser- viceable oxen, and ought to unite in companies of from 20 to 50 wagons, well armed, and keeping a strict watch after dark so as not to be surprised by the Indians. On encamping at night it is usual to form either a circle or square with the wagons by bringing them close toge- ther, and running the tongue of each wagon between the hind wheel and bed of the one before, alternately chaining them together, and thus forming a secure breastwork. Wood for fires, and drinkable water, arc 44 OREGON TERRITORY. not to be procured in some i)laccs on the Oregon route. It is therefore necessary to carry a supply of the latter in kegs kept for the purpose on those parts of the road known to be deficient in that indispensable article. This seldom occurs for a distance of more thon 20 miles at a time. Where fire-wood cannot be obtained, buffalo dung aifords a substitute, and can generally be met with. Hunting the buffalo or other game should not be de- pended on to any extent for a supply of food. This would retard the progress of the journey materially, and cannot be relied on with certainty. Emigrants should take a good supply of flour and bacon, with tea, coffee, sugar, salt, and such other necessaries as they have convenient carriage for, besides clothing, boots, shoes, ammunition, &c., sufficient to last them through the journey. Those who have the means will find it advan- tageous to take such articles for barter with the Indians as they are known to prefer; cotton handkerchiefs, cheap red ribbons, moccasin awls, small beads of dif- ferent colours, &c., will answer the purpose. The town of Independence in the State of Missouri, near the mouth of Kansas river, is the usual starting point for a journey to Oregon and California, as well as to Santa Fe in New Mexico. The route to Oregon ex- tends about 40 miles from Independence along the Santa Fe trace, thence in a north-w^est direction to the Kansas river. On crossing that stream, nearly the same direc- tion is pursued until reaching the banks of the Platte or Nebraska; thence to the Forks, and along the south Fork of that river to the crossing-place, it is nearly west ; then north-west to the North Fork, up the latter to Fort Laramie, west by north. This fort is a fur-trading post, at the junction of the North Fork of Platte and Laramie creek, and near the entrance of the Black Hills. It is in the Sioux country, about 700 miles from Indepen- dence, and double that distance from Oregon City. From Fort Laramie the Oregon route is north-west to Rock Independence, en the Sweetwater branch of North OREGON TERRITOUV. 45 Platte ; then due- west to the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains. This point is 1000 miles from Indepen- dence, and rather more than half-way to the Columbia river at Wallawalla. From the Kansas river and alon^ the Platte to the crossings of the Soutli Fork, the road is mostly through the Pawnee country ; thence to the mountains the Sioux will be met with; buffalo, deer, &c., in many parts plentiful, and the Indians will be seen from time to time in pursuit of game. Indians Hunting Buffalo. From the Missouri river to the vicmity of Fort Lara- mie the soil affords tolerable grazing for cattle and iiorses ; but froin the latter point to the South Pass, a distance of nearly 300 miles, the country is a desert, almost witiiout grass, and producing little else than the wild sage and a species of the cactus or prickly pear. The streams immediately westward of the South Pass are all tributary to the Colorado or Red River of the west, which discharges its waters into thp Gulf of Cali- fornia. Farther west is the Bear River, the chief feeder of the Great Salt Lake. The latter lies embosomed among lofty mountains, about 70 or 80 miles westward of the emigrant route. On leaving the South Pass, the tra- 46 OREGON TERRITORY. vellcr pursues a south-west direction to the Green river, tlie head branch of the Colorado ; then up Ham and Black^s Forks to Bridget's Fort, a fur-trading post ; thence to Bear river. This stream he follows nearly northwards to the Beer or Soda Springs ; and thence to the valley of the Portneuf, down which he makes his way to Fort Hall, a trading-post of the Hudson's Bay^ Conipany, at the confluence of the Snake or Lewis river and the Portneuf. The route to Fort Hall presents comparatively few diiliculties, and is traversed every summer by hundreds of wagons. The remainder of the journey is attended with many inconveniences, some arising from the na- ture of the ground, which may however be lessened or removed by the application of labour at certain points ; and others from the want of water and grass for cattle. Travellers with wagons generally follow the Snake or Lbwis river from Fort Hall to the crossings about 190 miles lower down, and thence go northward to the upper part of the Boise or Reed's river, through the valley of which they regain the Snake river ; thence pass over the country through the beautiful valley called the Grand Ronde to the confluence of the Wallawalla with the main Columbia, almost 550 miles from Fort Hall. Those on foot or on horseback find more direct lines of communication between those two places. Below the Wallawalla, the obstacles to the passage of wheel-carriages arc at present such as to preclude the use of them almost entirely ; and the numerous rapids and whirlpools in the Columbia render the voy- age down to the Falls of that river exceedingly danger- ous. Near the termination of the Cascades or lower falls is Fort Vancouver, distant about 250 miles from Wallawalla, and 125 from the Pacific. Six miles below Vancouver is the mouth of the Willamette, in the valley of which river the American settlements are mostly situated. Oregon City, the principal settlement, is at the falls of Willamette, and about 18 miles distant from Vancouver, 90 miles from the mouth of the Columbia, OREGON TERRITORY. 47 and 2171 miles from Independence by the travelled route, as may be seen from the following itinerary. The journey will last, according to circumstances, from 130 to 150 days ; but small unencumbered parties on horse- back may accomplish it probably in about a month less time. Oregon City is in latitude 45° 20', nearly or about the same parallel as the falls of St. Anthony, the City of Montreal, and St. Johns in New Brunswick. Its longitude is about 45° 45' west of Washington, making a difference of 3 hours and 3 minutes in time ; so that when it is 12 o'clock mer. in Washington, it will want 3 minutes to 9 A. M. in Oregon City. or Emigrant Route to Oregon^ with the distances in miles and the courses pursued. From Independence to the crossings of Kansas river, „ S. VV. VV.&N. W. 102 To Platte River, N.W. 2i6 828 Forks of Platte, W N. W. 130 458 Crossings of the South Fork, - - - - W. 75 533 North Fork. N. W. 20 653 Scoti's Bluff, W. N. VV. 75 628 Fori Laramie, W. N- W. 82 710 Rock Independence, - - N. \V. W. & S. VV. 188 898 South Paw, VV. 102 1000 Green River, S. W. 70 1070 Bridger's Fort, S. & S. VV. 59 1129 Bear River, N. VV. 68 1197 Beer or Soda Springs, - - - - N. N. VV. 92 1289 Fort Hall, N. VV. 61 1350 Fishing or Salmon Falls, - - - S. W. & VV. iso 1500 Crossings of Lewis River, . . . _ M. VV. 35 1535 Do. Bosiee do. N. W. 70 1605 Fort Bosiee, VV. N. VV. 45 1850 Malheur River, N. W. VV. 22 1672 Burnt do. N. 52 1724 Grande Roude or G'eat Circle, - - N. N. VV. 64 1788 Dr. Whitman's, N. W. 80 1868 Fort Wezperce or Wallawalla, - - VV. N. VV. 25 1893 Dalles of the Columbia, W.S. VV. 158 2051 Cascades. N. W. & W. 88 2087 Fort Vancouver, - - - - VV. W. VV. 54 2141 Oregon City, S. 30 2171 UPPEK OR NEW CALIFORNIA. Upier or New California comprehends that part of North America which lies west of the Rocky Mountain chain (called here the Anahuac Mountains), and extend- ing from north to south from latitude 42° to latitude 32° nortli. Witliin these limits it includes the territory discovered by Sir Francis Drake, almost three centuries ago, and called by him New Albion. On the north it is bounded by Oregon, south by Old California and Sonora, west by the Pacific Ocean, and east partly by the United States, and partly by the territory of New Mexico. In dimensions it is almost equal to Oregon, being in extent from north to south about 700, and from east to west from 600 to 800 miles, and having an area of about 400,000 square miles. Upper, or in Spanish phrase, Alta California, has long formed the north-western province of Mexico ; but at length, after several domestic disturbances, the people have declared themselves independent of that power, and will, most probably, be for ever separated from it. The natives dislike the Mexicans ; and that circumstance has given rise to sundry revolutions in their govern- ment. They must now take measures to become con- solidated into an independent state, or be the subjects of some foreign power. Immigration will assist the former, while the attractions of its magnificent harbour of San Francisco may, in a very few years, effect the latter. Our knowledge of the geography of this part of the Western Continent is still limited, and a large portion of it is unknown. The late expedition of Captain Fre- mont, U. S. Top.'En., has given a more exact view of the interior than has yet been presented. He has de- termined the position and figure of its noted Salt Lake, (48) iroil*Ni;\V CALIl'ORXIA. 49 A. art of untaiii )xlend- Lititudo rritory nturies orth it la and rtly by tf New )regon, id IVoni in area Q.S long but at people er, and The 1 stance rover n- le con- ubjects ;ist the larbour ect the of the portion in Fre- riew of has de • t Lake, B) indicated tlie probnhlc boundary and extent of its great interior desert, c.xploreil its chief mountains, and ex- }iibitcd the character and coiidition of some of its inte- rior tribes witli more apparent truthfulness than any other traveller. His tour, wliich occupied 17 months of time, viz., from the month of^ Maj', 1843, until Au- gust, 1844, and extended up\vards of (3400 miles, more than a tliird of wJiich was in (>alitbrnia, is one of the most remarkable and interesting that Jias yet been per- formed in America, A considerable portion of California is reported io be a desert, and unsuitable for cultivation ; but the district which extends aiong^ the shores of the Pacific, as far inland as the Sierra Nevada, is known to be well .calcu- Jated for settlement, and will doubtless, at no distant perioassed from time to time for their expulsion. These decrees the diftcrent governors of the territory have contented themselves with merely proclaiming, us it would be sheer folly to attempt enforcing tliem, whilst the Californians are obliged to depend ahnost wholly on tlte Americans to suppress the incursions of the predatory Indians. The aborigines of Upper California are for the most part indolent and pusillanimous, and destitute of tlic boldness and energy displayed by many of tiieir race in other quarters. Excepting those that have been con- verted in the missions, the women go nearly and tiie men entirely naked. Tliey are filtliy in their habits live in small miserable wigwams built of rushes, of which ^'iey also construct their rafts, and what clothing they use. In tJieir primitive state they have no agri- culture, but subsist on wild herbs, seeds, vvhicli the women collect and grind into a meal, also on fish, the shell-fish on the shores, tlie products of tlie chase, and whales* flesh and blubber, wlienever tiiat animal is cast on the coast, an event which occasions great rejoicings. The Pah Utah Indians, wlio inliabil the interior along the south edge of tlic Great Desert, live mostly by plun- der and robbery ; their arn^s arc long bows and arrows ; the latter arc pointed witli a very iiard stone, a species of opal, and are almost as eflective as a rifle or musket- ball. They often make incursions into tlie coast-settle- ments and commit grievous depredations; tlie iiorses and mules which they capture are driven to their retreats in the mountains, and are immediately slaugl)tercd for food. In traversing tlieir country. Captain 1 lemont and his followers were obliged to use the utmost vigilance to prevent a surprise, and one of his best men was killed UPPER OR NEW CALIFORNIA. 57 I by tlicin. These Indians constantly dogged the party, watching for an opportunity to make an attack, and a stray horse or mule was taken off in a moment. Tlic Utah Indians are found farther east, partly in Cahfornia, and partly in New Mexico ; they have fre- quent intercourse with the people of the latter country, and are less savage in tlieir habits. They have horses in abundance, are skilful riders, and have often good rifles. These Indians are robbers of a higher order than those of the desert. They conduct their depredations witii form, and under the colour of trade, and as a toll for ])assing through their country. Instead of attacking and killing, they affect to purchase, taking the horses, &,c., they like, and giving something nominal in return. In the southern part of the territory, and on both sides of the Colorado River, there are various tribes, the iVIohahves, Apaches, Moquis, or Monquis, Jumas, &c., of which we know little except the names. Captain Fremont met with a few individuals of the Mohahve or Amachuba tribe ; they were armed with bows of unu- sual length, and had large gourds, strengthened with meshes of cord, in which they carried water. He learned that the tribe raise melons of various kinds, and that individuals sometimes cross the intervening desert to trade with the Sierra Indians, bringing blankets and other articles that are made by the Moquis and some of the neighbouring tribes. Tlie towns of Upper California are as yet mere villages. Monterey, the capital, has about 1000 inhabitants, but has more trade than would be inferred from its popula- tion. In the year 1845, 58 vessels of the burthen of 14,670 tons, and 885 men, entered the port. Of theso '-27 were Americans, 18 Mexicans, and 6 English; the remainder comprised Germans, French, and Hawaii- ans, or Sandwich Islanders. The duties collected at Monterey, for the last 7 years, averaged about $3G,000 per annum. San Diego and Pueblo de los Angelos, the two largest towns, have each a population of from 1200 to 1500 in- i \tn 58 UPPER OR NEW CALIFORNIA. Iiabilants. The first is noted for the mildness of its climate, and the other for its vineyards ; the grapes grown here are of the finest quality, and the chief part of the wine and brandy manufactured in California is made here. Santa Barbara and San Francisco are the next important. The latter is on the bay of the same name, having the finest harbour, probably, on the western coast of America ; it aflTords perfect security to ships of any burthen, with plentiful supplies of fresh beef, vegetables, wood, water, &c. It is much visited by American whalers, and other vessels. The river which flows into this bay waters the finest portion of Upper California, and it is to this quarter that the attention of American emigrants is chiefiy directed. Further north is Bodego Bay, where the Russians, in 1812, founded an establishment of the same name. Still further to the northward was another, called Ross, or Slavinka Ross ; at both these places there were small forts, with magazines, stores, &c. There were, also, farms in the vicinity, on which fine wheat was raised, as well as peas, butter, cheese, and other products that the Russians sent to supply their forts on the north-west coast. In the year 1841, the Russians sold all their property in Upper California to an American company, and left the country. Nucva or New Helvetia is the nucleus of a recent Ame- rican settlement formed in 1838-39 by Captain Sutter, a citizen of Missouri, who obtained a grant of land from the Mexican government. It is about 50 miles above San Francisco Bay, near the junction of the Sacramento with the Rio de los Americanos, and consists chiefly of a fort built of adobes or sun-dried bricks, mounting 12 pieces of cannon ; in the interior are the dwellings and work-shops. About 30 white men and 40 Indians are employed by Captain Sutter, and are mostly engaged in agriculture. Large quantities of excellent wheat are raised, much of which is shipped to the North-VVest settlements, in vessels belonging to the proprietor. New Helvetia is at a considerable distance from any other 'i UPPER OR NEW CALIFORNIA. 59 ■ :. ; i ri settlement, and much energy and industry have been manifested in its establishment. Several American families reside in the vicinity. The coasts of Upper California were explored as early as 1542, by Cabrillo, a Spanisli navigator, who reached ihe latitude of 38° ; but his pilot, Ferrolo, who succeeded to the command of tlie expedition, on the death of the former, sailed several degrees farther north. In 1578, Sir Francis Drake entered the bay often called by his name, but now generally known as the Bay of San Francisco ; he took possession of the country in the name of his sovereign, Queen Elizabeth, called it New Albion, and erected a pillar in commemoration of the event. This name, although often found on English maps and charts, is now generally exploded. On leaving San Francisco Bay, the English navigator sailed further northward, but the precise latitude reached by him is a matter of dispute. For almost 200 years after the time of Drake, California appears to have been seldom visited by navigators, and but little is recorded of it. The first settlement of the Upper Province took place in 1769, by the establishment of the missions of San Diego and Monterey. From that time until 1776, nine- teen missions had been established. One nwre was founded in 1817, and another in 1823, making 21 in all. These establishments were partly military and partly religious, intended for the conversion of the natives un- der the direction of the missionaries, as well as for the occupation of the country. The missions Consisted each ofa cluster of small houses, usually built in a square, one of which was a church, with a territory of about 15 square miles. They were free from government taxes, and each subordinate to a Franciscan friar, termed a prefect. The Indians brought up at the missions were generally obtained young from their parents by persuasion or by purchase, or in some cases by force, and were never suffered to Uturn to their savage friends if it could be prevented. 60 UPPER OR NEW CALIFORNIA. Tlicy were all at first treated as cliildrcn, tlie nature and houra of their labours, their studies, their meals and their recreations being prescribed by their superinten- dents; and they were punished when negligent or re- fractory, though not with severity. After remaining ten years in this state of pupilage they might obtain their liberty and have ground allotted to them, but compara- tively few availed themselves of the permission, and those who did so for the most part sunk into sloth and misery, or returned to the wilds and resumed the savage life. In the latter cases the Spaniards employed every means in their power to retake the fugitives, who were indeed often sent back by the barbarians as unworthy of enjoying the privileges of freemen. In the missions the males were employed in tilling the ground or in the warehouses and workshops; the females were engaged in spinning, grinding corn, and other domestic labours. AH were fed and clothed by the friars, to whom they were in fact slaves. In 1831, their number was about 18,000. Since Mexico became independent of Spain, the missions have gradually de- clined, and may now be considered extinct. The new government neglected paying the remittances accorded by the Spaniards, and the constitution of 1824 declared all the adult civilized Indians freed from submission to the former pastors, and to be citizens of the Republic. The authority of the friars thus dwindled away, most of them left the country, the farms were abandoned, and the In- dians for the most part relapsed into barbarism or sunk into idle and vicious habits. In November, 1836, the people of Monterey and its vicinity rose, attacked and subdued the garrison, ex- pelled the Mexican functionaries and troops, declared California independent, and established a congress of deputies for its future government. But after a time the inhabitants were induced to return under Mexican authority. In the month of October, 1842, Monterey was captured by an American squadron under th command of Commodore Jones, in the belief tliat war had been UPl'KR OR NEW CAUFORXIA. 61 declared by Mexico against the United States. But tliu Commodore, finding that his information had been erro- neous, restored the town after liolding it for two or three days. Since the date of the last mentioned event, another revolution has occurred. In January, 1845, independence was again declared in Upper California ; and according to report, Captain A. J. Sutter, a citizen lately of St. Louis, Missouri, was placed at the head of the civil and military departmenta of the northern frontier. This country will no doubt remain hereafter separate from Mexico, the inhabitants being all heartily tired of the government, and the im- becility of its officers. Mexico has at present too much to do at home to think of attempting the re-establisJi- ment of her authority over so distant a province, one too that has become strong enough to resist successfully any forces which she can bring against it. The emigrant route from Missouri to California is identical with that to Oregon as far as Fort Hall, 1350 miles from Independence. On leaving the former, the Californian track extends generally in a south-west direction for about 750 miles to the American settle- ments on the Rio Sacramento. The scarcity of good water and grass, with the hardships experienced in crossing the Sierra Nevada, a range of mountains said to be 2000 feet higher than the Rocky Mountains, ren- ders this part of the journey much more perilous and fatiguing than the other. At the distance of 100 miles after leaving the Fort, the travellers enter the " Great interior basin of California," as it is called by Captain Fremont, a region which has as yet been only imper- fectly explored, but which recent observations would in- dicate as being less sterile than formerly thought ; many of the lakes and ponds are saturated with salts of dif- ferent kinds, and when dried up, which happens fre- quently to those of smaller size during the heats of summer, the salt may be seen at the bottom as white as snow. About 250 miles of the journey is along the banks G 62 UPPER OR NEW CALIFORNIA, of Mary's River, a stream reported to flow in a south- western direction, and to terminate in a sink-hole or lake 40 or 50 miles from the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada, and about 170 or 180 miles from the Sacra- mento settlements. The inhabitants of this part of the interior, like those seen by Captain Fremont farther to the south, arc naked savages, hostile to, and attacking all strangers whenever opportunity occurs. They are armed with bows and arrows, which they use effec- tively. Between the months of May and October the Sierra Nevada may be crossed with comparative ease ; but after the last named period of the year, the passes are obstructed by deep snow. But little that will serve for food can be obtained, and a journey through them is rendered very hazardous. In crossing these mountains in February, 1844, Captain Fremont and his party wero reduced to such straits that they killed several of their horses and mules as well as a dog for food. When once however on the western side of the Sierra, the fineness of the climate, the fertility of the soil, and the kind hospi- tality of the settlers, will soon make the traveller forget the dangers of the journey. THE END. i ■^«'^- '■' -'f -v' *^,- ,j^', ;,'*;-.<,.. '■^M■ ' ^ ^**' ,*-.^ / %, ■tft.' ;aBiM.»aa«tiiM||PP^Pjai^g(|(lp|;i<^ mii^ II